California Wine Country: Recent Episodes
Steve Jaxon & Dan Berger
Winemaker Ted Seghesio from Solo Nostro Wines is our guest today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. Ted used to work for the winery that bears his family name. In what he refers to now as his “previous post,” he made Zinfandel for 40 years. He still makes it under the new label, among many other varietals. Solo Nostro is Italian for “ours alone.”
Ted started as as winemaker in 1979 when the Seghesio family had been making wine already for many decades. The winery used open top concrete fermenters and redwood storage tanks. They had 400 acres of vineyards including French Colombard, Chenin Blanc, Carignane and Zinfandel. He remembers the advent of White Zin in the 1980s that saved a lot of Zinfandel vineyards.
Ted and his wife honeymooned in the Rhone region when they got married in 2015. When they created Solo Nostro in 2019, they chose to feature Rhone varietals, Grenache Blanc and Syrah, as well as a Rhone white blend. In addition to that, also make Dolcetto. They plan to expand their portfolio to other Mediterranean grapes. The Dolcetto is from their estate, and they get others from other local growers.
Viognier and Dolcetto RosatoThey planted Viognier because it was harder to find locally and they wanted it. Viognier can be tricky from year to year, the crop sizes are not as consistent as other varieties. So that is a risk for a winery or a grower. Now they taste a Viognier that Dan says has the flower basket aroma typical of Viognier. It should smell like flowers.
They picked at 3am, and went straight to the press at 50 degrees F, then straight to the concrete amphora. After 2 months fermentation, they left it on the lees until 6 months then bottled it. It has flavors of ripe peaches and apricots and floral flavors that put Viognier “in a different class.” Dan says to put this in oak barrels would be a misdemeanor. Dan estimates its alcohol is around 13.8. It’s 13.9. This would not be for aging. In France they do not age this wine. The floral aromatics are there to be enjoyed now. It should be served below 65 degrees.
Solo Nostro Wines are available at Bacchus’ Landing, which has various events. The owners are the former owners of the lucrative Low-Rider Magazine so they also hold an annual car show too. Dan says the place is “just stunning.”
Next is a Syrah, which is another variety that Ted did not work with in his previous post. It has thick skins. In 2022 it was 116 degrees on Labor Day. Fortunately they had picked the day before. It came out with blueberry essence with a trace of pepper. Dan says it needs two years to get to its ideal place.
The Consumer Is In the Driver’s SeatWith the downturn in sales in the wine industry right now, consumers have opportunities to try wines at prices they wouldn’t find. Some wines that already have an extra year of aging are now reaching the market which is good for buyers. Slow sales mean the wines for sale may be longer aged. One reason why California wines have become so popular is that they deliver fruit. On the east coast where they grew up with European wine, they are missing the California fruit flavors.
Daedalus asks if there is something about the California palette. Are we spoiled? Well, we are just different. Ted says they have done comparative tastings forever, France, Italy, California, lots of them. “Our fruit always stood out.”
The PivotDaedalus asks Ted how he made the pivot in his career. He quit Seghesio in 2018 and his wife Dana was studying in the Sonoma State University Executive Business program. They were going to start a winery but the wildfires wiped them out. They were going to call it Atto Due, Act Two. He rode Seattle to Portland and passing back into California, they found themselves before a breathtaking scene with nobody else around. Dana remarked, Solo Nostro which in Italian means “Ours Alone.” They only make 500 cases per year so far. He even makes a little Pinot Noir. They will also make Sangiovese. He will get some grapes from a vineyard that started with vines that his grandfather planted in 1910. Nobody else has century-old Sangiovese vineyard in California.
Kim Stare Wallace from Dry Creek Vineyards joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. She has been on the show before, the last time was this episode in September of 2025.
Kim has brought four bottles of two varieties, for tasting. One is their dry Chenin Blanc. They have made the same style for 54 years. Dan Berger remembers the first vintage of this wine and it is still as good as ever. Chenin Blanc is having a comeback right now.
Her father, David Stare, founded Dry Creek Vineyards. He loved the Loire Valley wines of France which is why he planted these vines.
Charles Krug made Chenin Blanc since the late 1960s but it was sweet. David Stare at Dry Creek Vineyard made it in an authentic dry Loire Valley style. Dan says this one is as good as any vintage they have ever made. Despite the ups and downs of sales over the years, they continue to produce it the same way, low alcohol and high acidity. It is a single vineyard wine, coming from the Wilson Vineyard nearby in Clarksburg. Dan knows the vineyard and says it has very fertile soil. It is close to Stockton. Their style is “hands-off winemaking.” It is 100% Chenin Blanc, fermented in stainless steel, there is no oak and no blending of other varietals.
Melon Flavors in Chenin BlancDan mentions that the textbooks say to look for melon flavors, but not cantaloupe, he means white melon. He also notices that this wine is dryer than most of the Loire Valley Chenins. Dry Creek Vineyards also makes about 500 cases of a Chenin Blanc crémant style.
Kim remembers a tasting that their friend Jean Baumard organized. He has a winery, Domaine des Baumards, in the Loire Valley. Dan remembers that event, when Jean Baumard brought some very rare dry Chenins called Savennières. One was from 1937. They had hidden some bottles during World War Two and this was a survivor. It was excellent. When Kim was 13 years old, her parents did a house exchange with the Baumards, whose home is in the Loire Valley village of Rochefort sur Loire.
This Chenin Blanc sells for $16-$19, and it is a great value at that price. Dan advises storing some in a cool place for any occasion.
2025 Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon BlancNext is a 2025 Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc. It is a new release. David Stare was the first to plant SV in the region, in the 1970s. People laughed. He was told it was a dumb variety. He turned out to be right about it. It’s 100% Dry Creek Valley, so it reflects the warmer climate. They planted unusual clones of Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Musqué and Sauvignon Gris. Dan says you can taste the subtle differences between these clones and their signature Fumé Blanc. Sauvignon Gris is very rare. Dan compares the flavors to an heirloom grapefruit. He thinks it will improve with ten years in the cellar. The New Zealand SVs are softer and sweeter.
Kim reads the tasting notes, “Floral notes of jasmine, geranium and hibiscus; fresh herbal hints of cilantro stem; tomato leaf and white pepper mingle with wet gravel minerality.” The herbal notes won’t come out for this wine until about ten more years, says Dan. In this case, the fruit is right up front. Daedalus detects a whiff of dried tarragon.
2026 Best Winery in the 2026 SF GateDry Creek Vineyard won the title Best Winery in the SF Gate’s 2026 Best of the Bay issue. Dan remembers they showed Field of Dreams on a portable screen in the vineyard. They have a concert this Saturday afternoon, from 12-4 pm, two days from the day the show is recorded live. Visit the Dry Creek Vineyard website Events page for their full schedule.
Fred Peterson, owner of Peterson Winery, joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country today. This is Fred’s first time on the show, but Peterson wines were a big part of this episode with Darryl Miller, on March 27 this year.
Daedalus mentions the birds on the labels of the Peterson wines that Fred has brought. There are other labels with a mountain lion, a bear, a fox and a deer. They find old prints that are in public domain that they can use with no royalties.
Fred Peterson calls his winemaking style “zero manipulation” which they have trademarked. He uses the jackalope on the label, but he can’t trademark that mythical animal which is in the public domain.
They begin by tasting a 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon from Dry Creek Valley. This is what happens when you have the proper fruit, the proper region and the proper technique of making the wine, says Dan. It is a great example of what it can do when it is properly aged. A Cab needs about 12 years to reach its fully mature complexity. This one is 23 years old now and has flavors of dry herbs and bay leaf.
This is a mountain cabernet from Bradford Mountain where Fred lives, at about 1100 feet elevation. If a Cabernet is just big, oaky, alcoholic and tannic, it can’t also carry terroir. Mountain Cabs have an edginess that other Cabs just don’t have.
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Bitterness is a good thing.Dan reminds us that bitterness is a good thing. We like it in dark chocolate and in coffee. For example, bitters are appropriate in a mixed drink. They are part of the overall complexity and diversity of flavors. This wine is a perfect example. It delivers all its high-altitude character.
Fred says, “If we don’t make wines that taste of the vineyard, there’s no reason for a small winery to exist, in my opinion.” He calls his winemaking process “zero manipulation” so that his wines taste like the vineyard.
Their current release Cab is the 2022. So, it is young, for a Cabernet. The 2022 is also a very good wine, and Dan thinks that Fred harvested it at the right time. Both Cabs are blends. The 2003 is 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Merlot. The 2022 has the same 83% Cab, 11% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc.
After time in the Navy, Fred enrolled at UC Santa Cruz. He took time off for a road trip, to bring a motorcycle to a friend’s farm in Iowa. He took an interest in agriculture when he was there. He took some Agriculture classes at the JC then finished at UC Davis. His mom’s side of the family is Sicilian and Calabrese, so he grew up around wine. Dan sees this as a typical pattern for winemakers, to start in another field before settling on winemaking.
Gravity Flow BlockHe calls the vineyard Gravity Flow block. It is an acre and a half of vineyard with over a mile of deer fencing. When he planted this block, he planted about 7% Viogner which he co-ferments with the Syrah. He and his son don’t like very tannic wines and the Viogner helps temper the Syrah. Co-fermentation is also called co-pigmentation. The grapes ferment together. If you put 5% Viognier you get darker wine, aromatic improvement and a lighter texture. It has a paradoxical flavor. It has personality and maturity, but it feels young. The 2005 just needs ten more years in the bottle. The Syrah from 2018 is “stunning” says Dan, and was just released. It is available at the winery. Peterson Winery has a mailing list that we can all join. His son does blending seminars occasionally and he does vineyard tours.
Shane Finley, winemaker and Lisa Brayton co-owner of Thirty-Seven Wines join Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. This episode of August 10, 2022 featured Lisa along with her husband Al, who is holding down the fort today. This is Shane’s first time on the show.
Thirty-Seven Wines is named after the highway. Dan describes the Thirty-Seven Wines vineyard. There are varieties there that don’t grow in warmer areas. One example of that is Albariño. They have cooler days and warmer nights, near San Pablo Bay, across the street from the Sonoma Raceway. It is at a high enough elevation to have a 180-degree view of the bay. On a clear day they can see Coit Tower in San Francisco. The vineyard lies within the Petaluma Gap AVA. They get winds from both the Petaluma Gap and from the south, off the bay. This keeps the temperatures down and controls the acid levels in all the varietals.
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Russian River vs. Petaluma GapRussian River wines have more of a bright juicy red character, while this vineyard produces darker blue fruit, “kind of plummy,” with tangerine skin and spicy flavors. They have a very long growing season, and their harvest goes from late August sometimes into November. Some grapes need more time on the vines. Shane names Albariño, Blau Frankisch, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Merlot, which they have all on the same property. He credits Al and Lisa for being crazy enough and intuitive enough to put so many varieties together like that.
Thirty-Seven Wines produces all their wine from their own estate grown grapes. Shane describes their approach to making wine. To keep it fresh and vibrant, they don’t do any lees stirring, they only do partial ML, mainly fermented in concrete. They use their oldest barrels, from 2010 and 2011. These barrels are “really neutral.” Dan detects a faint tropical note in the Albariño they are tasting. It gets intense morning sun but long cool afternoons. Lisa is in charge of managing the canopy to keep space between the clusters and maintain acidity.
Scott Lindstrom-Dake from Thumbprint Cellars joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. This is Scott’s first time on the show. Thumbprint Cellars is located in the Petaluma Gap.
The first tasting is a 2024 Nouveau, primarily made with Grenache with a little bit of Zin, meant to be served chilled. It has a dark pink color and is a refreshing easy-drinking wine. Dan notices that it is very dry but not soft, either. It has the personality of a red but the structure of a white. This wine also got 50% malolactic fermentation which gives it body but not too much. The fruit flavors are coming from the Grenache. This is the result of carbonic maceration is when you put the whole cluster in without crushing, so every berry is whole when they develop their own fermentation. It’s not meant for aging but for enjoying now.
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California Wine Country is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that produce exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
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The next wine is the 2021 Passion Valley, which Scott calls their prestige brand. Scott was making wine when he was an art student mostly doing sculpture, so he wanted to call it Sculptured Cellars. But then one evening, his wife handed him a gold pen to customize some labels on the bottles of some of his home made wine. The gold ink leaked from the pen, and he used his thumb to blot the ink. Then he left a gold thumbprint on the bottles. He realized he had a name when people asked for more of “that thumbprint wine.”
This Sculptured Cellars wine won a Gold Medal at the North Coast Wine Challenge. It comes from 75-80 year-old Carignan vines, 50%, with another 50% Syrah. It gets a little barrel aging in French oak, about 20% new. The Carignan is grown near the Russian River, so it gets cooler evenings. Dan finds it succulent and mature, ready for further aging. He would serve it slightly chilled, with barbeque.
Scott started making wine as a hobby after his wife got him a book about how to make wine in your garage. He thought about what he would want on the label. While staring at wine labels in a store for half an hour, he would read labels. He thought that the information he wanted was lacking. Scott decided it was important to put some information on the label, so the customer has an idea of what’s going on.
Scott is making Cabernet Franc, which will be more and more in demand. In Napa valley, it is already more expensive than Cabernet Sauvignon. Dan predicts that its popularity will increase. Cabernet Sauvignon is a cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. It is not easy to grow. Cabernet Franc is not as difficult to grow. Scott describes winemaking as an art, and the science part is important but secondary. He started by making wine at home. He was lucky to work for a family in Dry Creek Valley who allowed him to make wine there, as part of his compensation. Today his artistic expression comes through his winemaking, instead of sculpture.
Tony Lombardi from Lombardi Wines is our guest on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. This is his first time on the show. The winery is located in the Petaluma Gap, which we have described in many recent episodes. This episode from 2018 is about the 3rd anniversary of the Petaluma Gap AVA,
We start with Chardonnay, which Dan says is in the mold of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, which is an estate in Burgundy, in the Côte d’Or region in east-central France. They produce red and white wines of distinction. If you visit DRC, as it is known, they serve the reds first, then the whites. They believe in the richness and the full-bodied character of Le Montrachet. Dan says that this wine from Lombardi wines has that character which makes it an exciting wine.
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The Lombardi FamilyThe Lombardi family has been in Sonoma County since the ’40s. Tony has been a winemaker for 30 years. He grew up in Sebastopol and calls Sonoma County the Garden of Eden. Tony is happy to work with a friend from high school named Mike Sullivan. He got access to a few tons of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Maratella vineyard in the Russian River Valley.
Tony only made 8 barrels of this wine. He used one old barrel, seven new ones, and some stainless steel. He fermented different vineyards together, then they went into different barrels. Later he blended them all together. Dan calls it a classic example of a Russian River Valley Chardonnay. It has just a hint of oak. Tony wants the oak to just capture the edges and round it out. You want subtleness and integration, so you you catch a little bit of crème brulée, or lemon curd, or minerality. Dan says, put this wine with the right food and it get better. Tony suggests Dustin Valette’s Scallops en croute. If a Chardonnay is too buttery and oaky, it can overpower the flavors in the food.
Dan noticed that Russian River Valley Chardonnay has citrus flavors that contribute to the acidity. It’s something you don’t want to lose in your blending. This vineyard is west of the town of Santa Rosa. It has some inland warmth compared to his place in Petaluma Gap.
Next they taste two Pinot Noirs. In Tony’s career he has learned about regions and wines from all over the world. Now he has settled into Chardonnay and Pinot Noir which he likes for their versatility. Every March, he is part of a festival called Pigs and Pinot. Tony can blend a couple of barrels of Gap’s Crown vineyard in with the Russian River Valley fruit.
Matt Taylor, owner of Matt Taylor Wines, is our guest today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. This is his first time on the show. Dan Berger did talk a little about Chenin Blanc in this recent episode. On April 30 this year, Matt Taylor was the subject of a feature story in the New York Times.
Chenin Blanc is coming back. It was popular in the 1970s. It was sometimes a sweet wine, but it can be dry. Today winemakers prefer to make dry Chenin Blanc and Dan approves. Matt has brought the first bottling of Chenin Blanc from the Mammoth Rock vineyard on the Sonoma Coast.
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California Wine Country is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that produce exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
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Chenin Blanc was sweet for centuries even in the Loire Valley. People are making it dry only in this century. Matt works with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay on the Sonoma Coast. But in 2016 he tasted a Chenin Blanc and that was a revelation. It put him on a path to the Loire Valley. He brought some budwood back and planted a vineyard in Sonoma Coast about 10 years ago. (That’s why it’s known as the Samsonite Clone.) This is the first bottling of that wine and Dan thinks it is spectacular.
Chenin Blanc Then and NowWhy was Chenin Blanc always a sweet wine? Dan explains that decades ago, nobody had invented a filter that was tight enough to get rid of all the sugar and yeast. It wasn’t until 1943 that the filter was invented and 1947 before it was applied to the wine. Now we have been making dry Chenin Blanc that has personality, terroir and depth from aging in barrels. This is everything Chenin Blanc could have been but never was.
This wine is soft in the aftertaste but not sweet. The pH is about 3 and 12.2% alcohol. 2023 was a long season. He picked in late October or November. In 30 minutes after breathing, it will transform. There is a brightness to the wine that pairs with oysters and abalone. Dan says that Matt took a risk when he put Chenin Blanc in this place, because it is so cold is hard to get the grapes to ripen. You have to push Chenin Blanc to its limits in a cold climate.
Matt Taylor pours a tasting in the Loire Valley every year or two. Sometimes the wines don’t travel so well, so having this high caliber domestic production is an advantage for us here.
Kevin Bersofsky, owner of Montagne Russe wines, is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. He has been on the show before, the last time was this episode in 2024.
Kevin has brought a French style sparkling Rosé. Dan likes this sparkling Rosé because it is dry. This is a 2022, 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chard, Keller estate Petaluma Gap fruit. Kevin is very light with the dosage, 2.5 grams, here. It’s like lemons and lemonade. A little sugar makes it drinkable.
2022 was a hot year, but Kevin says there are wines before the heat, and after the heat, a tale of two completely different vintages. This was picked before the heat.
Kevin calls the Petaluma Gap a sort of mini-San Francisco. At about five o’clock, a coastal breeze comes in. The effects are well known. First, the wind slows the maturation of the grape. Also, the wind stops the photosynthesis of the leaves. This favors thicker skins and color. It also keeps the acid levels up.
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California Wine Country is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that produce exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference! ++++++
Kevin says he waits for acidity to come down before sugars get too high. In other places, you reach sugar maturity and acid maturity at the same time. Kevin picks on 3 criteria. Flavor is first. He can taste and predict Brix. When he tastes something, he knows. He has a flavor catalog in mind. For example, the Roberts Road vineyard, he has flavor criteria, and he knows what he wants. Dan says California can have fruit, acid and body without having to sacrifice one.
Greg Jones is a meteorologist and Oregon farmer, who runs a weather forecast site. Visit the Abacela winery website.
Too much oak.Chardonnay in California usually has too much oak. Kevin’s Montagne Russe Chardonnay is different. It has a bit of lemon oil and tropical fruit. But the acid is holding everything together. 2023 was a cold year. He did half ML on this wine. They use Puncheon barrels, which are 2.2 times larger than regular barrels. That puts less oak per unit of volume, onto the wine.
Next, they taste a 2022 Pinot Noir with spectacular color. 2022 was a difficult vintage. The fruit came from the Sangiacomo family vineyard. Dan says the grower gets credit. When you pay premium prices for fruit, you also get the grower’s expertise and personal care.
Dan finds this wine faintly rustic, as opposed to the bright cherry and berry. It’s a different kind of Pinot Noir. Petaluma Gap always delivers because it has more than just cold climate. It is more subtle and has more character.
When Kevin has picked, he asks around to see who else has picked.
Sometimes he’s the first. Gary Farrell would often pick early too and made great wine.
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On June 9 at 6 pm, the Healdsburg Wine Library is opening the new Millie Howie Memorial Garden and Patio. It’s free to the public and tickets are available at the Healdsburg Wine Library events page.
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The last wine is the Syrah. They have 23 bottles left. 2022 Petaluma Gap Syrah from Keller Estate. The Keller estate had some extra Syrah and Viognier that they offered to him. “Co-fermentation time!” says Dan. They put it all together, 100% whole cluster, 9% Viognier. It spent the final 8 months in stainless steel. He created an entirely different label for it. It came alive after a year in bottle. Dan says that this one “identifies” Syrah, which is meaty in a fruit sense, it’s not gamey.
The Wind to Wine Festival is coming, October 17, 2026. Start planning now!
Don Chigazola is back with Chigazola Merchants French wines on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. Don Chigazola receives the first Golden Corkscrew with a fanfare for brass orchestra, for being a guest ten times on CWC. The last time Don Chigazola was on CWC was this episode last January, with a selection of wines he imports from Italy. Today, we will taste Chigazola Merchants French wines, which Don has just begun to import.
These wines come from a vineyard and winery called Domaine Tour Campanets, located about an hour north of Aix en Provence in a village called Les Puys. Don has brought five bottles, two whites, two Rosés and one red blend. The winemaker is Emanuelle Baude, the daughter of the family that bought the property decades ago. The first is a Rosé, made of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. We’ll hear a lot of those varietals today, since they make up a lot of the production in Provence.
California Wine Country is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that produce exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
Chigazola Merchants French WinesDon Chigazola opened Chigazola Merchants 14 years ago after retiring from Med Tech. The regulatory process took 6 months, but he finally got federal and state licenses to import, distribute and retail wines from Europe. They have been importing wines from Italy for 13 years, including most of the well-known Italian varietals, from 12 of the 20 regions covered. They developed an interest in French wines when his wife Debbie tasted some French Roses. Now, Chigazola Merchants French wines are coming in through the same process they have for importing Italian wines.
Dan says that this Rosé wine carries so much more of that tropical fruit plus spice component from the Grenache. The Syrah is there for flavor but not or intensity. Dan says that Grenache makes the best Rosé in Provence. It’s delicate but dry, loaded with flavor.
Domaine Tour de CampanetsThere is a centuries-old tower on the property, Tour de Campanets means bell tower in Provençale French. The wines labeled Bois des Fées are their top quality production. Along with his wife and son, Don travels to meet the producers and visit the wineries. The don’t import from a producer unless they walk the vineyards and get to know the family.
The other Rosé is under the Bois de Fées label. This one is made with Cabernet Sauvignon, it has more acidity and more weight.
Dan observes that American wine buyers think that if a wine is inexpensive, it can’t be any good, even if they are. People didn’t trust inexpensive wines from Provence because the price was low. On the east coast, these were the bargain hunters’ paradise. People knew about them. But on the west coast they didn’t sell. All these wines cost under $30 but Dan says they are comparable to wines that cost over $40. Don says to his clients who may resist Rosé, if you taste this Rosé it will change what you think about Rosé.
A Vermentino by any other nameThe Tour de Campanets Cuvée is a blend of 50% Rolle (which is another name for Vermentino), 35% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Ungi Blanc. Rolle, or Vermentino, has taken hold in France. The Italians claimed the name and so the French renamed it. This grape has a trace of pineapple in the aromatics that you don’t get anywhere else. This wine is completely dry. Daedalus suggests marketing it as “Rolle in the hay,” Marketing department, work on that.
Ungi Blanc is the same as Trebbiano. It is another renaming. In Sardengna, Cannonau is Grenache, but the French wouldn’t let the Italians use the name Grenache. It’s the same grape. It’s global politics in a bottle.
There is an annual wine show in Paris that the Chigazolas have attended for the last 3 years. This is how they started making contacts in France. The last tasting is a 2024 red blend. Dan says that Don is doing a service to his customers These wines are different than his Italian wines. Don has the experience to know how to find these wines, that are unique, delicious and priced at $30 and below. These wines and these bargains are unique.
We have a selection of Bottle Barn picks from Dan Berger on California Wine Country with Dan and Daedalus Howell today, wines that Dan says show a trend in the retail wine business. He has brought selections from Bottle Barn that will illustrate this new direction. Dan Berger is our weekly co-host and has also been featured on the show, such as this episode about Gamay Beaujolais.
Many younger consumers are looking for something different. Instead of dwelling on doom and gloom because of low sales, there is an opportunity to reset the industry and to rethink things. As consumers change, the industry needs to adapt to changing tastes and provide more variety. Dan calls it a Return to Reality. So, for example, we have seen a rebirth of Chenin Blanc in the last 10 years. Barry Herbst, wine buyer at Bottle Barn, makes sure that the store has lots of choices for people looking for something new.
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CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference !
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Esporão, Assyrtyko and PigatoThe first taste is Esporão, a Portuguese white wine made in the style of Chardonnay. It is aged in wood, but delicately. It has only 13.5% ABV. The region is near the Atlantic Ocean in a cool area. It’s a 2020 and still fresh. It was $30 at first release, but now it is $12.99. The wine has the aging that it needs, it’s ready to drink.
The next tasting is a 2024 Assyrtyko. It is a Greek grape that grows primarily in Greece. But this one is from Jim Barry Wines in Claire Valley in Australia. It sells for about $24 at Bottle Barn.
Dan thinks the next wave of interest in wine will not be from collectors. There will have to be more diversity in the choices of wines, varieties and origins. Wine today is better than it has ever been around the world, because of better grape growing and better technology.
Then they taste a 2024 Pigato from Liguria from the Durin label. It has some lemon blossom in the aroma. It’s delicious and has a lot of personality. Pigato only grows in Italy in Piedmont and Liguria, both are cool climates. Wine makers need to plant grapes like Pigato here in California.
Pithos Rosso and Verduno PelavergaNext is a red, Pithos Rosso. The bottle is 750 ml but has a squat shape. The grape variety is Nero d’Avola and is native to Sicily. The label says both Italy and Sicily. It is red, but light and delicious and not particularly tannic.
Last is a 2024 Verduno Pelaverga from Fratelli Alessandria. It is a light grape from the Piemonte province, where Barolo and Barbera also grow. Pelaverga was planted as a blending grape. After 1945, they sent cuttings to UC Davis. Then, the vineyard was bulldozed and became extinct in Italy. But UC Davis had cuttings and now they have replanted it in Italy. It is as light as a Rosé but it has the taste and flavor of red wine. It’s Dan’s favorite recent discovery. Bottle Barn has it for $29.95, down from $45. It has the flavor profile of a good Barolo. Black pepper, violets, green herb, “complexity without knowing what it is.” Pelaverga is very rare here. The importer is North Berkeley Imports. Dan says they are committed to the wines they import.
Sal de la Cruz from Ludor Wines joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell in the studio on California Wine Country today. This is the first time on the show for Sal and for the winery.
All of the wines that Sal has brought come from the Weiler vineyard in the Sonoma Valley AVA. They begin by tasting a red wine blend called Yuma, named after their beloved nine-year-old dog, who is on the label. It’s a very casual wine, delicious and fruity. Dan says that this is the modern era of red wine. “Drink it soon,” but it is authentic to the fruit. It is similar to Beaujolais but with better grapes. The Merlot character is right up front, and it has beautiful other nuances of black fruit.
It is in a clear bottle. They wanted to show the color and break the boundaries of a traditionally dark glass. Since it isn’t meant for long aging, the clear glass is fine. It was just bottled three months ago. This is a great picnic wine, declares Daedalus. It got no wood, all made in stainless steel and unfiltered. “It feels like the French countryside,” says Daedalus and Dan agrees.
The Ludor Wines 2024 MerlotNext they taste the 2024 Merlot. “This is serious stuff,” says Dan. Their vineyard has two kinds of soil, a clay loam and a sandy rocky soil. They planted it in the mid-’90s and they have been farming it for the last 25 years. Sal has been working there since he was a kid. They know the land very well. Sal says they do all the touches on all of their wines, meaning they farm it, they make it and they bottle it. Then they try to educate people about it. The name Ludor comes from his mother’s great grandmother. The family has a history in farming, mostly corn, beans and squash. (Those are the “three sisters” of native American agriculture.)
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
The Ludor Wines 2024 Cabernet SauvignonThe next wine to taste is a 2024 Cabernet Sauvignon from the same property, the Weiler vineyard in the Sonoma Valley AVA. The vineyard is on the valley floor. It spent about 17 months in French oak before bottling. Dan says you can tell it was made classically and will age well. He suggests leaving a wine open for a few hours and if it improves, that means it will also improve with some years in the bottle. Five more years would be great for this wine but at least you should aerate it with a decanter. Cabernet Sauvignon is quite tannic so have a steak or something with it. About 30 years ago Napa and Sonoma wineries would release Cabernets for sale when they were roughly four and a half years old. Before tasting the fourth wine today, at minute 16, listen to Daedalus riff on the Yuma wine, for 20 seconds it’s a brainstorm the captures and expresses that wine’s character with just words.
The Ludor Wines 2024 Cabernet FrancSal explains how they pay careful attention to the ripening of this wine. They have to sacrifice some grapes, since a big crop load doesn’t produce the ripening that they want. It responds to air faster than Cabernet Sauvignon.
Carol Shelton brings her latest Gold Medal winners to California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. She produces Zinfandel and other varietals under her own label, Carol Shelton Wines. She has been on the show several times and her very first episode was this one in December of 2017.
Dan explains that Carol always does extremely well in wine competitions. “Gold medal, gold medal…” says Dan, and he says it’s because she uses fruit that she knows and elevates it every single vintage.
The Wild Thing Zinfandel is the wine she is most known for. She started making it back when she was at Windsor Vineyards. It is a wild yeast fermentation, and it is organically grown. Without pesticides, the wild yeast grow on the skins of the grapes without any damage or weakness, so she can count on them to do the fermentation all the way through. The wine is “smooth and polished and long and slurpy,” she says.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
Wild Thing ZinfandelDan calls it silky and elegant, with good acidity and perfectly balanced. It has a little Carignane (14%) blended in, and a little Petit Syrah (7 or 8 %). This wine just got 94 points and a Gold Medal at the North Coast Wine Challenge. She won a total of 8 gold medals and two double golds, and one was a best in class. The half bottles are 375 ml.
During the first decades of Carol’s career she worked for Windsor Winery and produced a lot of excellent wines. Dan got to know here when he was writing about the winery’s direct-to-consumer program, which was a new process then. She produced 200,000 cases a year of 48 different wines. “Everything was exemplary,” says Dan. Carol is one of the first women to get an Enology degree at UC Davis. In the early years she remembers there were about ten or fifteen women winemakers. She noticed more and more until today there are about sixty or eighty. She belongs to a roundtable of women in wine that meets monthly.
Albini ZinfandelThe second wine they taste is the 2023 Albini Zin, grown in Windsor. The vineyard is not old vines, it is only about 35 years old. She and her assistant winemaker taste every barrel. The first year they got that fruit, they both agreed that “the new Albini” was the best. Dan explains why Russian River Zinfandel is hard to find, because a lot of vineyards were converted to Pinot Noir. She also makes some other Zins from old vines and both styles are in demand.
There is an undefinable spice component in Russian River Zin that you don’t find anywhere else, says Dan. This wine got 97 points and a double gold medal. Dan explains that a lot of Zinfandel suffers from having too much alcohol. He actually put a small amount of water in the glass to balance it and free the flavors. All of Carol’s wines are under 15% alcohol, usually about 14.5. She used to use Clark Smith’s process for removing some alcohol from wine. Dan remembers a clinical tasting session with Clark Smith. The “sweet spot” for flavor was more apparent at different alcohol levels, and his favorite was the lowest.
Then they taste the third and fourth wines. Third is an old vine Carignane called Wireless because the vines are not growing on trellis wires. Fourth is an Alicante Bouschet. That is a grape named after the botanist who created it. For a consumer looking for something “off the beaten path” this is a good choice. It has a dark red color. It is unusual and makes a great gift. Dan would give it 10 years but with really good storage.
Chris Sawyer is here as Melissa Galliani’s special guest, along with Courtney Wagner the winemaker at Martinelli Winery. Chris is getting ready for the Sonoma County Vintners Pour and Explore event on April 23. They will be tasting the best Pinot Noir in Sonoma County. He has been in the wine business locally since the 1970s and has seen its growth.
Courtney Wagner is the winemaker for Martinelli Winery. They specialize in wines from the old vines on their property. Giuseppe and Luisa Martinelli settled in Forestville in the late 1880s.
When they arrived and got the property, the Jackass Vineyard was already there. It is on a 60% slope which makes it maybe the steepest grade of a vineyard in the country. The Martinelli website has lots of images and videos of the vineyard.
Dry Farmed for DecadesThe vines have been dry-farmed for decades. They start to get good after 40 years. That’s quite different than Cabernet vines that only last about 40 years.
Courtney Wagner followed a path into winemaking that began with studying music in high school. Then she thought of studying nutrition. Food science at Cal Poly led to wine. Chris Sawyer remembers the farmers market in San Luis Obispo on Thursdays. Courtney had a professor who suggested she work a harvest, to see if she really wanted to do that. She stayed with her grandparents in Napa and was able to work at Artesa. Chris thinks that they are making the best sparking wines in California now.
Courtney has made Pinot Noir and Chardonnay everywhere she has been a winemaker. She did 32 different varietals at Wild Horse. Chris Sawyer remembers Sonoma County in the late ’70s and ’80s. Some of the innovators were starting Pinot Noir then, but Zinfandel was already well-established.
Conditions can vary a lot from year to year, and so does the wine. 2022 was a hot year, and their last day of picking in 2022 was the first day of picking in 2023. They were worried that their foreign interns’ visas would expire before harvest was done. Because of that cold weather, these wines will age very well. The 2023 Bondi Pinot Noir is nice now, but it has the potential to be great up to 15 years in the future.
Erica Stancliff, Deodora Estate Vineyards winemaker, joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. This is her fifth time as a guest on the show. Her very first time was this episode on February 20, 2019 and her last time was May 23, 2025 with Doug Mryglod and Judy Phillips, the owners of Deodora Estate Vineyards.
The Artemis II crew just splashed down off the coast of San Diego just this minute, as the show is being recorded live, so we toast with some great Riesling.
The wine they are tasting is the 2019 made by her friend Ashley Holland who was the first winemaker at Deodora, and who taught her that Riesling from Petaluma Gap could be gorgeous, aromatic, age-worthy and not sweet. Dan explains that you have to pick the fruit early enough to get the structure that will age well. The 2023 vintage represents Ashley passing the torch to Erica, who took over as winemaker that year at Deodora.
2023 was a cold year.2023 was very cold on the Sonoma Coast, which made it a great vintage. Erica explains that the colder growing season is longer and that favors greater phenolic ripeness. Things need time to develop and if it is not so hot that you have to pick to keep the sugars from taking over, you have a chance for more interesting flavors. As the sugar comes in with ripeness, the acid drops. You don’t want too much of either one.
But the phenolic compounds will provide flavors that may fall into balance. You can add a small amount of water to manage the alcohol content at the right time. Erica compares that to putting a little bit of water in the sauce while you’re cooking it. There are other additives in the winemaker’s toolkit, like yeast, which some winemakers need, especially in a wet year. They actually use grape skins to feed the yeast. After the two Rieslings, they will taste the 2018 early cask Pinot Noir.
Erica was president of the Petaluma Gap wine growers’ alliance for a few years. In Petaluma Gap it is all about the wind. Dan explains that the Pacific Ocean has a wall of cold that is different than the Atlantic. The Petaluma Gap’s winds are persistent and not as strong as other places where geologic features increase the wind. The wind is regular but slow enough.
Primordial BudsDavid Ramey believes that the Carneros is cool because of this same wind. Erica agrees. Every year, there are two vintages on the vines, the current year and the primordial buds of the next vintage. This causes some overlap in the influence of vintage years.
Dan tells a story from the book Wine and War that he read years ago. In 1939 the wine was very poor but then the Germans demanded all the wine so they sent the swill. Erica knows the story, they hid all the good wine and the caves under Dijon are still there.
They grow 5 clones of Pinot Noir. She compares clones to different color coats of the same breed of dog. They produce two Pinots, one they call early cask and another late cask. One is aged in wood for about 10 months. A late cask gets 14-16 months in the barrel. They can decide which direction the wines from the same vineyard can take. This late cask Pinot is also called over-vintage.
Erica explains why crystal glasses raise the aromatics, more than glass. The surface of crystal is more jagged, and this is believed to raise more aromatics when you swirl the wine in the glass. They are tasting the 2018 early cask Pinot Noir. Daedalus suggests it is like opening a cigar box and finding a blood orange with cloves stuck in it.
This episode marks another Clark Smith Double Gold win, on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. This is also Clark’s 12th time as a guest on the show. Clark Smith’s first CWC episode was this one in 2017 . It was one of our very first shows! Today we can say he has filled the case, with his 12th guest appearance. No other guest has been on the show as often as Clark Smith, and few of them have won as many awards. One of the wines they will taste today is a recent Double-Gold medal winner.
Clark begins by saying that he cut his teeth on European wine. That means wines that are balanced, that don’t have too much alcohol and will age well. “I don’t like to release them until they are ready and that means sometimes waiting 6 or 8 years in the barrel.” He doesn’t like woody wines. The barrels he owns are over 20 years old.
Double Gold for the Petit VerdotClark is one of the only winemakers who makes wine from Norton, a grape that was discovered in Virginia in the 1920s. Hardly anyone grows Norton. Clark also makes a lot of uncommon wines, “goofy stuff.” His Petit Verdot just won a Double Gold from the American Institute of Wine. It is a 2018 that he just bottled, after six and a half years in the bottle.
The problem with Zinfandel is that too many people buy it to drink right away. Some are ridiculously high in alcohol. The higher alcohol, the less the variety shows its signature. 17% alcohol is the equivalent of adding two tablespoons of vodka to your wine. Don’t do that. All of the flavor components are soluble in alcohol so the heat from the alcohol masks the aromas. Dan says that this is a problem for the heavy Napa Cabernets. They will be prune juice in 20 years and undrinkable, unlike this wine which is below 14% ABV.
Dan and Darryl.
Darryl Miller is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell, with wines from two Sonoma County wineries, Dehlinger Winery in the west county and Peterson Winery in Dry Creek Valley. He has been on CWC a few times, the most recent is this episode on July 18, 2025.
Darryl Miller is retired from the wholesale wine business. He works with the Dehlinger winery, assisting and advising them with their sales and marketing. He even used to live on that property in the 1980s. Darryl also works as an advisor to the Peterson family in Dry Creek Valley.
Dan Berger and Darryl Miller met when they were judges at a wine competition about 40 years ago. They found that they appreciated the same qualities of structure and balance in wine. For Dan, there is no such thing as a great wine that does not show good balance. There are unbalanced 100 point wines that are by definition, not great.
The Goldilocks DilemmaDarryl agrees. They are either too heavy or light. They are not made well. Darryl describes the Peterson’s method as zero manipulation. They grow the right fruit the right way and then they don’t have to intervene. The wine being tasted is a 2024 “3V” made of three Italian white grapes whose names begin with V. Vernaccia 37%, with a kind of chalkiness to it. Darryl says it’s like Chablis. They also blend in some Vermentino which has some pineapple tropical fruit flavors. Then some Verdello, which has grapefruit rind flavors, similar to a Sauvignon Blanc.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
They make the three wines separately and then blend them. There is also a red blend, of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. They call it GSM or GMS, in order of appearance.
Blends Are BackBlends are becoming popular again. This is because winemakers find that if they have Grenache and some other varieties, they can end up with a better wine by blending them. That is better than making single varietals which by themselves may not be as good as the blend.
Dan objects to blends that don’t tell you what is in the bottle. We want to know what is in it. It is not illegal to do, but does not help. The Peterson wines are very careful about telling the percentages in blends.
Dan and Ross.
Winemaker Ross Cobb is our guest again today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. He is the founder of Cobb Wines. Ross was on the show once before, on this episode in January of 2025.
Daedalus Howell remembers meeting Ross Cobb maybe 30 years ago, when they were both at the beginning of their careers. They begin by tasting a Chardonnay from 2023, which Dan describes as a nice cool vintage. The vineyard is in the eastern Sonoma County in the Sebastopol area. It was planted in the late 1990s. He got some Pinot Noir from the new owner, and he also got some Chardonnay.
He considers this to be one of the best Chardonnay vineyards around. The vines are mature, it gets 10% new oak, full malolactic fermentation, 22 months in barrel, and it’s not overly done. Dan Berger gives credit to all of those techniques, which gives it a combination or richness and tartness. The texture is rich and the aftertaste is delicate. It is only 12.5% ABV so it won’t knock you over.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
Ross describes how his parents planted the vineyard in 1988-1989. He attended UC Santa Cruz where he designed his own program focussed on the living soil. Then he met all of his neighbors who had vineyards, names like Dehlinger and Rocchioli. Then he worked for Ferrari-Carano, Williams-Selyem and then for Flowers.
Next they taste a Riesling. Ross and Dan Berger both get their Riesling grapes from Cole Ranch. Both of them make it dry and Dan credits Ross for a great product aimed at Riesling purists – like Dan.
After the break they taste the Pinot Noirs. Ross Cobb says the 2023 Pinot Noir from Emmaline Ann Vineyard was his transformational vintage. He recalls the 2006 crop when he picked at 21.9 Brix. At first he was afraid that he had made a bad decision. But it turned out well, because of the secondary chestnut and spicy aromas that emerged. Dan Berger says 2006 was the greatest age-worthy vintage Sonoma County history. “This is astounding!” says Dan. He likes it because it was a cool year. Dan says Ross did well to pick early because the problem with a lot of wine is over-ripeness.
Dan observes that this year’s crop is dealing with 90-degree daytime highs in March. He also thinks that we will also have some cooler weather in the next month. Dan says the best weather report in the world comes rerom Abacela Winery. Greg Jones who has a PhD in climate science, publishes excellent meteorological reports on the western US. His reports are free online. Look for the Current Weather and Climate Report on this page.
The last tasting is the 2021 Doc’s Ranch Vineyard. It is another representation of Sonoma Coast style. They have 22 acres of vines at high altitude. It is risky, and can yield as little as half a ton per acre. Ross calls it a good place for ripening in September and October. This vintage was picked in late October.
Dan, Daedalus and Bob.
Our guest is Bob Cabral again, on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell, with four of his wines to taste and describe. He was one of our very first guests on this episode of June 21, 2017, a couple of years after he launched his own label, Bob Cabral Wines.
Since that first podcast appearance in 2017, Bob has been on California Wine Country many more times. His last time on CWC was June 14, 2024, with a double episode. In the first part of that show, Bob talked about his own wine company and about having just finished his 45th harvest. The other part of that show was with Mark Tchelistcheff, to talk about the film André the Voice of Wine.
Bob Cabral started in the wine business in 1980. The Judgement of Paris had happened in 1976 and it got a generation of future winemakers like Bob interested in wine. He studied winemaking at Fresno State, then found a job working at the bottom of the totem pole as a “cellar rat,” hoisting barrels, etc. Dan points out that most great careers in the wine industry have begun this way. The experience is critical and all of one’s knowledge is goes into the work and to teaching others.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
You Have to Clean and Scrub!Dan took a two-day intensive wine course at UC Davis in 1976 and he had to be completely alert the whole time. The most important class he took was Winery Sanitation. Bob says it was also the first thing his professors at Fresno State told him. You can’t control mother nature, but you can control sanitation. You have to clean and scrub. A lot of Bob’s fellow students became famous and influential winemakers. It was a generation that caught the wave growth in the California wine industry.
The first wine they are tasting is Bob Cabral’s 2019 Wildflower Riesling. Daedalus notices tropical fruit flavors. It comes from two vineyards on the Sonoma Coast. Bob fermented it in a concrete amphora. He used native yeast and no barrel aging. Dan says this is what the Germans do, they age Riesling. Dan believes that great white wine age well, such as some of his Italian Arneis.
Supporting the Local CommunityAll of the proceeds from Bob Cabral Wines after operating expenses go to charity to support local causes. Dan appreciates how important that is for the community of Sonoma County. One out of every five people work in the wine industry, directly or indirectly.
Dan notices that in addition to the tropical fruit, it has “TDM” which is a ‘petroleum’ taste. TDN stands for 1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene. It gives a SLIGHT gasoline or kerosene aroma.
The traditional German Riesling bottle shape (“Schlegel” in German) will be either green, blue or brown, depending on the region. The shape of the bottle can be different from red wine bottles because the shoulders and the push-up bottom are there to to trap sediment. White wines don’t have sediment, which makes the flute bottle OK for it.
The next wine is the 2024 Chardonnay whose name is Acoustic Sunset. Neutral barrels give more flavors than mere stainless steel. Dan says this wine has an expressive personality. The secret to this one is there was no ML so the pH and the acid stayed the same. So this wine has all the pieces, which will merge and combine with one to three years in the bottle. He only made four barrels of this one.
Bob tells a lot of stories about famous musicians he has met, who were interested in his wine.
Two Pinot NoirsThe next two bottles to taste are Pinot Noirs. The wines have proprietary names, Troubador and Fillmore, and the fruit comes from several different vineyards. The Russian River one, Troubador, has all the features of RRV, says Dan. The last tasting is a library wine, a 2018 Pinot Noir called Fillmore. He calls it “a one-off” because he got some special fruit once only. He only made six barrels.
Daedalu, Drew, Daisy and Dan.
Our guests today are Drew and Daisy Damskey, who join Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. Drew’s father and Daisy’s husband Kerry Damskey has been on this show several times, most recently on this episode of March 1, 2023.
The first wine in our glasses is a 2023 Semillon, made by Drew Damskey for Palmieri Wines. This white wine grape is relatively common in Hunter Valley in Australia. It is also the grape used for white Bordeaux and is a common blending grape.
This Semillon comes from a vineyard planted in 1886 and is the second oldest Semillon vineyard in the world, called Monte Rosa vineyard. The vineyard is at the top of Moon Mountain which is above the town of Sonoma in the Mayacama range. Drew considers it to be ideal for Bordeaux varietals. They make about 75 to 100 cases of this wine per year. That 2023 Semillon has some of clean, crisp freshness of Sauvignon Blanc but with the weight, richness and texture of a Chardonnay.
Dan “Lay It Down” BergerDan would give it a minimum of three years of aging. He has 30-year-old Semillons that are still good. Dan contends that all wine ages, even whites. Dan opened a 1990 French Chardonnay the other day that was “just about perfect.” Speaking of perfection, Dan had a 1991 red wine from New Zealand, a Syrah, which Dan called perfect.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
The next wine tasted is Daisy’s Chardonnay, which Drew and his father made for Daisy. They were making only red wines for a long time but Daisy wanted them to make a white wine too. So father and son got some fruit and made the wine. Dan says it’s terrific, with great presence and acidity and a little bit of oak character. The fruit comes from Dorell vineyard. Drew explains that the wine undergoes Malolactic Fermentation,
David and Dan
David Ramey, founder of Ramey Wine Cellars, joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. He has been on CWC before, but it was a while ago, on this episode in 2018 and again here in 2019.
The weather today is unseasonably warm, but it doesn’t affect Dan’s work. People tell him it seems he has the greatest job in the world. They think he just has to drink wine and write about it. But Dan actually drinks very little, when tasting and evaluating wine. The better the wine, the less of it you need to drink to appreciate high quality. “It’s not about volume, it’s about character,” says Dan. “Wine is food. It’s fermented grape juice and it goes with food. You might get a little relaxed but you you don’t drink wine to get drunk,” declares David. Dan reminds everyone, “Life’s too short to drink bad wine.”
Dan Berger declares that Chardonnay today is better than it has ever been, and he thinks David Ramey can explain why. David thinks that the Chardonnay producers went down the wrong path, when rich, hedonistic wines, fruit bombs, were popular. Robert Parker was an influential wine critic and he liked that style. David Ramey’s Chardonnays represent a reversal of that trend and an appeal to wine lovers who know that Chardonnay can do much more than those big buttery fruit bombs that don’t age well.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
MS in EnologyDavid Ramey describes his pathway into the profession of winemaking. He grew up in Sunnyvale, a schoolmate of Apple co-founder Steve Wozniak. He attended UC Santa Cruz from 1969-1973, when the campus was brand new. He worked as a waiter where he also had the chance to taste wine. He thought he would go and teach English in Colombia, but he never made it there. He was driving from Mexicali to Hermosillo and one day he describes a coup de foudre, French for a lightning strike, when he realized he should make wine. It’s something that people like, it’s not bad for the environment, it’s an aesthetic statement, lot to like about it.
So he applied to UC Davis in enology. He had to take all his college level math and science courses at San Jose State before he could start the major. He graduated with a Master of Science in Enology. Several of his fellow students became famous winemakers.
They are tasting one of David’s Chardonnays, which is not chilled. “Chardonnay is the red wine of whites.” Both whites he brought are 2015s and the reds are both 2013s. Both combine richness, strong acidity and good structure.
ClaretDavid went to France after he graduated. “I’m a classicist,” he says. He wanted to go where people have been making wine for a very long time, to learn how to do it. He ended up working in Bordeaux. Then he worked a harvest in Australia. They processed 37,000 tons of grapes that time.
Next they taste the Claret. That name is protected now but David says they can still use it, they are grandfathered in. It is a generic British English term for a Bordeaux wine. The French claimed it, despite the fact that there is no place named Claret. It’s just a generic word, but it was ceded to the EU in trade negotiations. Ramey also treademarked two varietal blend names for themselves. Their Left Bank Blend is a Cabernet based blend. Template is another name, modeled on the Right Bank, so it is Merlot based. This is all with Sonoma County grapes. Dan adds that the name Ramey on the label indicates a higher level of quality, by itself.
Dan and Matt
Matt Duffy from Vaughn Duffy Wines is back on California Wine Country. Matt has been on the show before, on this episode last summer.
Dan Berger is back after taking last week off to attend the Anderson Valley White Wine festival, which we previewed on a few recent CWC episodes. He was in charge of the Riesling table with 12 different ones. They will hold a Pinot Noir festival in about five weeks, which we will hear about too.
Matt Duffy was on CWC once before, last summer. Vaughn Duffy Wines specializes in single vineyard Pinot Noir. Their wines have captured many awards. Today Matt has brought four Pinot Noirs, all from different vineyards in the Petaluma Gap AVA. They are all from 2024. There are 3 vineyard designates, and one called Petaluma Gap which is a blend of Pinot Noir all from within the AVA.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
This wine has characteristics of a Petaluma Gap Pinot Noir. A Russian River Valley Pinot Noir has a little more raspberry and strawberry flavors. This one has a little more rustic character that reminds Dan a little more of Burgundy than one from RRV. Matt notices that the wines from Petaluma Gap makes purple, darker fruit compared to the bright reds from the Russian River Valley. The wind keeps things cooler in the growing season which lengthens the ripening season and limits the yields.
Pinot Noir: a delicate balanceDan describes Pinot Noir as being on the edge between being too light or too heavy. A winemaker has to be careful through harvest and production, “…because if you try to get too much or too little (from it), it either lacks something or has too much of something.” Daedalus finds Pinot Noir sometimes too dark or too light but this one is “just right.” Dan says you can run the risk of making an overripe wine anywhere with any varietal, but there is more forgiveness in some varieties and in some regions. If you harvest Cabernet a little too late, you can get away with it. If you harvest Pinot Noir a little bit too late in some regions, “…you’re going to get an odd configuration of characteristics.” And those aren’t necessarily a benefit to anyone.
The first wine they taste is the blend, of Sangiacomo’s Roberts Road vineyard and Uberroth vineyard, both in the Petaluma Gap. Later in the show they will taste single vineyard Pinot Noir bottlings from each of those vineyards, plus one from Secret Hill vineyard. 🍷
Miro Tcholakov is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell, and Melissa Galliani is also in the studio today. He operates Miro Cellars and is also winemaker for Trentadue Wines. Miro has been on CWC before, on this episode back on September 9, 2020. and his last appearance was this episode on April 5, 2024.
Miro has brought a Chardonnay, the only Chardonnay he makes now. The vineyard belongs to the De Loach family. It was given “incomplete” malolactic fermentation, so it doesn’t have too much “popcorny” flavor. This wine won a gold medal at the SF Chronicle competition.
Miro grew up in Bulgaria. Sometimes he refers to it as “way back east.” After college in Bulgaria, he came to the US on a student visa. He had good grades in biology and, also needed to do two years of military service. His degree was agronomy engineering, specialized in viticulture. Then in 1990 he won access to an exchange program to the US. He chose viticulture and he was the only one of the six who went to the west coast. He worked a standard harvest internship at Dry Creek Vineyards. The night before he was supposed to leave, they asked him to stay, to cover for an injured colleague. He rose through the ranks and nine years later he took a full time winemaker job at Trentadue.
When he was growing up in Bulgaria, his grandfather made wine. They made about 1000 bottles of wine per year.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
Pinot Noir tooNext they taste the Pinot Noir. Miro doesn’t usually make Pinot Noir. He was known for making Petite Syrah and Zinfandel, but he wanted to try it just to say he can do that too. He gives credit to the work in the vineyard. “I am in opportunistic buyer…” of Pinot Noir grapes. It won a double gold medal from the SF Chronicle competition. Daedalus tastes dry cherry, old books, dustiness. Miro thinks maybe it’s from the oak or the terroir. It’s supple and round. It might handle about five or six years of aging. Daedalus’ judgement: “Super drinkable, dangerously drinkable.”
Later the discussion turns to the wine market and everyone’s opinion of how this downturn looks from their point of view. Aurelio Aguilar who is twenty-six, speaks for his generation. He suggests that winemakers have an important opportunity to get young people familiar with experiences like wine tasting. Then Miro tells his story of how the cave woman invented wine.
Next they taste the Grenache named after his daughter, Cuvée Sasha. He started making it when she was born, 23 years ago, and for the last 10 years the grapes have come from the same vineyard on the shore of Lake Mendocino. Grenache is a good wine for any occasion, sort of like Pinot but spicier, and can have a hidden bite of tannin when younger. It’s fruity but can also be earthy. It is easy to pair with anything, Miro suggests grilled salmon or tuna. It can benefit from chilling, too. Melissa suggests bringing Grenache as a hostess gift, for it novelty and quality.
Affordable Luxury“You can make high quality wines at a reasonable price. It’s possible. I’ve been doing it for twenty-three years.”
Dan Berger, Chris O’Gorman and Daedalus Howell.
Chris O’Gorman and Chris Sawyer are our guests on California Wine Country, to present Pour and Explore at Rodney Strong Vineyards on Feb. 12. Chris O’Gorman is in the studio and Chris Sawyer joins us on the phone. Chris O’Gorman has been on CWC before, his last appearance was this episode last August. It was actually Daedalus Howell’s first CWC episode as full time host of the Drive.
Dan has brought one of the wines he will be pouring at the Riesling table next week at the Anderson Valley White Wine Festival on February 14th. The 2021 Smith-Madrone Riesling is a dry wine but not as dry as some of the really bone dry types. Dan likes it with Thai food. The winery is releasing their 2022 Riesling now. This is the same hillside where Stony Hill winery also makes Riesling on an adjacent property.
Chris Sawyer is with us on the phone from Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. He is there to judge the American Fine Wine Competition. It is one of the largest invitational wine competitions in the US. It is taking place at Florida International University.
Pour and Explore at Rodney Strong VineyardsChris O’Gorman describes Pour and Explore which is taking place next Thursday night, February 12, from 5:30 to 7:30 PM at Rodney Strong Vineyards. Pour and Explore will feature Bordeaux varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot, by themselves or blended. Dan enjoys the company, since there are winemakers pouring the wine, so they can answer his questions.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
The first tasting today is a Rodney Strong Bordeaux blend named Symmetry. Rodney Strong has been producing Symmetry since 1996. Single varietal wines are not as common in France as they are here. They realized that Chateau St. Jean provided a model of a successful blended red. This Symmetry wine is a 2021 vintage. The label shows it is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon. With other wines being released at 2 and 3 years old, this wine is different. Cabernet Sauvignon can’t be too young. Chris O’Gorman describes the qualities that each of the five grapes bring to the blend.
Next they taste a wine from Alexander’s Crown, one of the most historic red wines in Sonoma County. The first Alexander’s Crown vintage was 1974. This is the first single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonoma County.
Chris Puppione from Puppione Family Wines is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. The last time Chris was on the show was this episode last summer, on June 6, when he spoke to Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.
Chris has brought four wines that Dan describes as “fabulous” and they are low-alcohol wines. Dan says Chris has had an opportunity to explore the lower-alcohol market. Chris says that people are just looking for flavor and “what’s old is new” and Dan notes that higher alcohol takes flavor away from the variety. Low alcohol is not less wine but just less noise. It takes away from nuances that they prefer to bring forward in their wines. There is a white and three reds.
First, Dan’s cellar wine is the 2024 Bahl Fratty Riesling, which he will pour at the VIP event at the Anderson Valley White Wine Festival. “It’s coming out of its shell,” but in three or four years it will be really ready. They will also pour Vermentino and other whites. Dan’s table is all Riesling. It’s at the Mendocino County Fairgrounds, February 14. Tickets are $160 and are all-inclusive, with beverages and food.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
FriulanoThe Puppione label is blue, which is supposed to discourage spontaneous sales. Well, not always, says Daedalus, tell that to Blue Nun. Chris wants to make “Tuesday night wines” not Friday night wines. Festa was his grandmother’s name, so he makes a Festa Bianca and Festa Rossa. The white is Friulano, which means “from Friuli” which is in north-eastern Italy. He got the vines from a high mountain vineyard in California. He uses a combination of stainless steel and barrels. His children press the grapes with their feet. The alcohol is just 12.4%. Compared to those othe heavy wines that come in around 15% or 16%, this is refreshingly light. It is just a 2023 and it will still evolve.
“This is something I do with my wife and kids for fun,” says Chris. Chris made his first wine to honor the birth of his daughter. He made it in secret. He is grateful to have help from many friends in the business. Everyone agrees that this camaraderie and willingness to help other is typical of Sonoma County people.
Juventus CuvéeNext they taste a red wine. It is their Juventus Cuvée. His family is from a village outside of Torino in Italy, and one of the home teams is Juventus, but also Juventus is the goddess of youth. This is a blend of Syrah and Cab. He used stainless steel and captured a little effervescence. It’s in a clear bottle and he suggests chilling it. It reminds Dan of the simple wines you find in the back roads in France. He smells “fruit, not adorned…” This is a young wine that doesn’t need any maturation. After 2 years it is still lively and fruity. Dan says that Syrah and Cab are compatible varieties and compliment each other.
Dan, Daedalus and Julie
Julie Pedroncelli from Pedroncelli Winery is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. She has been on the show before, the last time was this episode of last January.
Dan describes the current slowdown in the wine business. The other times that the wine market went soft, there were one or two causes, but today there are several causes. But the benefit to the consumer is, the longer it takes to sell the wine, the more the wine improves.
The Pedroncelli family has owned the property for almost 100 years. The vineyards are very carefully farmed and they take great care making their portfolio of wines. “Four generations and still going strong,” says Julie. Her grandparents put down roots in Dry Creek Valley outside of Geyserville. They bought a property in 1927 that had a vineyard and a shuttered winery. The previous owners were making wine as far back as the early 1900s.
Their winemaker Montse Reese just completed her 18th harvest at Pedroncelli. They produce mostly Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and a few red wine blends. Her father is 94 and retired just a few years ago.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
Sauvignon Blanc and ZinfandelJulie has brought the “block party” today, with single-vineyard wines that represent certain blocks in the Pedroncelli vineyards. She has brought a Sauvignon Blanc, which they will start with, before moving on to the Zinfandel and others. “White wine is always good to start with.”
This Block 11 reserve Sauvignon Blanc, vintage 2024, is not their regular production. It is a special designation reserve. Block 11 showcases the grassier, herbaceous side of SV and Montse Reese thought the neutral oak would bring out that side of SV without overdoing it. Daedalus detects a bit of Pez candy flavor, which Dan thinks is like green mint.
Next is a Block 13 Zinfandel from 2023 which was a cool year. This is a little spicy, with a bit of black pepper flavors, and a raspberry note that Dan says is a characteristic of Dry Creek Valley Zins. Block 13 has had Zinfandel grown on it for over 100 years. It is the third generation of Zinfandel vines on the property. Some of the vines are 100 years old but they have replanted twice. It was Zinfandel, then Petit Syrah, then back to Zin. Montse found that this block stands out and merits a single-vineyard bottling. They used bud wood from the Rockpile vineyard for the planting and Montse also uses a yeast that was developed at Rockpile. Julie describes its character as feminine, not high in alcohol, very delicate in its fruit, “…it doesn’t hit you over the head, it’s not a fruit bomb, it’s more like a light spice bomb,” says Julie.
Cabernet Sauvignon and SyrahThe Cabernet Sauvignon needs to breathe, decanted it would be a little more open. The long finish is not oak, though, it’s all the flavors you want in Cab without the other flavors like too much Oak.
Dan Berger will be opening a 1966 Louis Martini Barbera next week for a special occasion. There are two Masters of Wine candidates from Taiwan who are taking a course at the Flamingo. Dan has met them and they expressed interest in an old California wine. Dan has one of two remaining bottles. He will open one for the students at Ca’ Bianca in Santa Rosa, along with two or three other wines from the era.
The fourth wine they taste today is the Pedroncelli Syrah. Dan says he has never heard of anything like this before. It is a lower-alcohol Syrah, about 12%. This one was earlier harvested, to make a lighter style of red with lower alcohol. They picked two or three weeks before they otherwise would have.
The book that Dan and Don agree is the best one on this subject.
Don Chigazola has brought Colle Ciocco wines to taste and review with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. Don’s company Chigazola Merchants imports selected small lots of Italian wines made by small family-owned wineries. He travels to Italy regularly to find wines and to meet everyone involved. Don Chigazola has been on California Wine Country several times, the last time was this episode on June 13, 2025, with wines from the Alto Adige region.
They begin by tasting a very dry Trebbiano. It’s a white wine popular in Italy but not widely known in this country.
This Trebbiano is one of the wines Don has brought today, all from the same producer, which is one of his favorites, the Spacchetti family in Montefalco, Umbria. Their label is Colle Ciocco, which translates to “Choko Hill” in English.
Don Chigazola founded Chigazola Merchants to travel in Italy looking for wines to import. They started importing from the Spacchetti family after he got to know them about four years ago. They only make about 5000 bottles per year. The wines that Don chooses for Chigazola Merchants are combinations of a variety and a region that are common in Italy but not well-known here. Don looks for those varieties that will surprise and delight his customers.
Dan Berger remarks on a wine that was a 2022 Sancerre which is made with Sauvignon Blanc and it was sweet, not dry as he expected. Sweetness sells, apparently, according to Dan.
Trebbiano SpoletinoThere are different clones of Trebbiano in this wine which make it unique. Trebbiano Spoletino is grown around the village of Spoleto in Umbria. Don describes it as very clean and dry, flavors of apricots, peaches, stone fruit. Dan notices good minerality that makes it go well with food. The only way to get a California Chardonnay to have any acidity at all is to chill it down. We all agree that’s a cheap trick and beneath us.
Don Chigazola has run Chigazola Merchants for about 13 years now. He has seen the shift in demand from Italian reds to white wines. So he began to favor white wines about six years ago. Now his portfolio of Italian white wines is very strong and unique among American retailers. Some of Chigazola Merchants’ wine club members are local wine producers. They are eager to taste a wide range of production. A lot of his members have joined after they got to know the wines from their friends.
GrechettoThe next wine is a Grechetto, another Italian white grape grown around Orvieto and near the town of Todi. The Spacchetti family has blended a couple of clones of Grechetto with about 15% Viogner, which gives it a soft finish on the palette and “rounds the edges.”
The third wine tasted today is a red blend, called Montefalco, which is 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino and 15% Merlot. Dan notices this difference: in California, we make wines that are big and rich and bold, for reasons “I don’t wanna talk about,” ok fine. But he finds them tiresome. Contrast that with what these Italian wines accomplish. “It is not very ripe, only just ripe.”
SagrantinoThen they have a Sagrantino from Montefalco. This is a 2019. Sagrantino was first a sacramental wine, and was made to be sweet. But it is now a dry wine because tastes have changed. Don explains that the Spacchetti family ages it for two years in barrels and then a minimum of five years in the bottle. With all that it still feels young.
There are over 400 varieties of Italian wine, so Don says that nobody can claim to be an expert, there is too much to know. But Dan Berger begs to differ and cites Ian D’Agata and his book, Native Wine Grapes of Italy. Dan admires the author as an expert because of his book. Don actually knows Ian and agrees about his level of knowledge. Don describes himself as a student of wine.
Dan, Daedalus & Courtney
Courtney De Graff, from the Anderson Valley International White Wine Festival joins Dan Berger & Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. She is the executive director of the Anderson Valley Winegrowers Association.
The International White Wine Festival is coming this February 14th through 16th. Courtney was on California Wine Country at this same time last year, for the previous annual festival.
Courtney De Graff, of the Anderson Valley Winegrowers Association talks to Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell about Anderson Valley White Wine Festival. It is happening on February 14-16, with the 14th being the big tasting day.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
Dan remembers when this was called the Alsatian Festival, but they changed the name to include more wines from other places. Dan Berger will be there this year at a special Riesling table. There will also be Gewürtztraminer, Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. Dan likes the festival because white wines are easier to identify by their scent.
The 17th Annual FestivalThis is the seventeenth annual festival. It has had a few different names and rebrandings.There are 64 members in the Association and not all of them produce Alsatian varietals. Dan notices a worldwide evolution in white wine tastes. There are grape varieties showing up today that were not produced in great volumes, because we lacked the technology to make the wine.
Anderson Valley is eager to do a white wine festival because white wine is at the forefront of the current evolving trends in wine popularity.
The Anderson Valley is an hour north of Healdsburg, on the way to the town of Mendocino. festival is on Hwy 128. Visitors either say overnight or make a day trip. Saturday is the grand tasting from 11 to 3, then on Sunday is winery open houses. They will open their doors for food, wine and entertainment.
There are 44 wineries booked this year, the largest contingent ever. They also have wineries from all over the world, including Swiss, German, Italian, French and Mexican wines. It is held at the Booneville Fairgrounds.
Dan, Daedalus and Casey Graybehl.
Casey Graybehl from Grenachista Wines joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country today. This is Casey’s first time on the show, although we mentioned Grenache as recently as last September on this episode with Oded Shakked of Longboard Vineyards. Grenachista Wines specializes in Grenache, and makes several types and styles of this one varietal.
Before getting to Casey Graybehl’s Grenache wines, Dan Berger has brought another cellar dweller this week. It is a 2004 Rkatsiteli from Dr. Konstantin Frank, in the Finger Lakes region of upstate New York. It is a French grape that has been grown in Eastern Europe for decades.
Asked why he chose Grenache, Casey explains that he needs guardrails, to constrain himself. By focussing on his favorites, he can run a small operation and produce a high quality product. Dan explains that Grenache is also an important blending wine. The same is true of Syrah. You need some Grenache to make a Rioja from Tempranillo grapes. There is also the GSM blend, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Instead of making wines for other people’s tastes, he makes wine for his own palette.
The Holy Trinity of GrenacheCasey describes the holy trinity of Grenache as Grenache Gris, Grenache Noir and Grenache Blanc. They taste a Grenache Gris and then a Grenache Rosé. Dan and Casey agree that their favorite varietal for Rosé is Grenache. “It’s a fruit salad in a glass,” says Daedalus. Dan says the tropical notes are fermentation flavors called terpenes that will be gone in six more months. “This is not one to age,” says Dan.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
If you’re going to limit yourself to one grape, Grenache is the one to do, says Casey, because of its versatility. Next they open the North Coast Grenache Noir. The grapes come from Sonoma Valley, Napa Carneros and Mendocino, which qualifies it for the North Coast AVA. Dan notices pomegranate and cranberry flavors. Casey says some nice licorice and leather flavors will come on with aging.
Dan finds that Grenache is more sensitive to its soil and vintage than many other red wine grapes. Pinot Noir can be a headache but Grenache can be more consistent. They call it a blender but it is really a base, making up 60% of blends, such as Gigondas.
Barry Herbst is here to talk about sparkling wines for the holidays on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. Barry has been on CWC many times before. For the comparison, here is a show where he brought sparkling wines, recorded on Dec. 29, 2023. He is the wine buyer at Bottle Barn.
First, Dan recaps part one, which is here on its own podcast episode page, a detailed talk about Gamay Beaujolais. Then, right here, Dan and Barry conduct a tasting and discussion of four very fine sparkling wines that Barry has brought, all of which are at Bottle Barn.
Late December is one of the peaks of wine purchasing season. The first peak usually comes at Harvest Fair, that and the Press Democrat Competition before that, “gets things going.” From the end of September it starts, then pops again for the holidays. Also people stock up for June events.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
Bottle Barn also does flash sales and rare wine sales on their website. Online sales account for about a third of their business now. They didn’t even have a website until 2019 but now their website is first class. Dan says it’s maybe the best wine sales site in the country. It was good that they did it just before Covid. The bottle barn site is well built and works great. Barry remembers six weeks when four people did nothing but data entry, to get the site started. They had 6000 SKUs.
Cremant d’Alsace RoséSparkling wines are the order of the day. So they pop a cork and taste Bottle Barn’s best-selling sparkling wine of all time. Cremant d’Alsace made 100% with Pinot Noir, so it’s Rosé. Bottle Barn sells 600 cases per year of it. It sells for $17.99. Dan says it tastes drier than it did before. You can really taste the Rosé character and the aftertaste is “clean as a whistle,” says Dan.
Cremant means sparkling in French. Sparkling wines can only be called “Champagne” if they come from the province of that name. So there are Cremant wines named for their region, such as Cremant d’Alsace. That naming rule pertains to sparkling wines from Italy, which are called Vini Spumanti or Prosecco, depending on the region and the varietals. Cava are Spanish sparklers. The new British sparkling wines might earn a new name.
SeppiThe next tasting is Seppi, a California product. Mostly Pinot Noir, beautiful balance, says Dan. Intense pink wine flavors with more acidity than he expected, and rounded and more full bodied.
Dan also mentions a grower champagne and Barry actually has one to taste, Lalarge Peugeot. They grow everything biodynamically. Barry notes that they have kept their prices reasonable compared to their neighbors there, in the heart of Champagne. There is more Pinot Meunier planted in Champagne than Pinot Noir or Champagne grapes. Pinot Meunier is a red wine grape but lighter than Pinot Noir.
Melissa Galliani and Dan Berger.
Dan Berger takes some time to explain Gamay Beaujolais today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. Later in the show, Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn will be in, to talk about sparkling wines they have in the store for the holidays. That portion of the show has its own podcast episode, right here.
Dan has brought a Beaujolais from 2023 from a California winemaker who moved to France. He got tired of trying to make European style wines in California. Johnathan Pey made Pinot Noir in Marin County and made a Cabernet in Napa called Textbook. He decided to make a break from California and move to France. This wine is his French production, Domaine Johnathan Pey.
Beaujolais ain’t no “Boo-jo-lay”Johnathan Pey bought two cru vineyards in Beaujolais. Gamay Noir au jus blanc is the full French name of the grape. Beaujolais is generally an unpretentions wine, easy to drink and not expensive. Pey wanted to apply modern winemaking techniques to grapes from the old plantation. He bought the vineyard about five or six years ago and has been tending the vines personally. Dan says this vintage is starting to show depth and intensity above the average for Beaujolais. 13% alcohol. The color is intense and suggests a highter ABV but that’s not Beaujolais.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
Usually, Beaujolais is just to open and drink. But some of the Cru Beaujolais will benefit from a couple of years in the bottle. John found that the other producers in France were young, and he is teaching them California techniques that are ahead of the game.
This wine is full of fruit, but also an intensity, a Syrah-like aftertaste. Dan thinks maybe this wine will age in two days once opened. “Way more interesting than a typical Beaujolais.” It doesn’t have any oak, there was no barrel aging.
Garry Brooks from Brooks Note Winery in the Petaluma Gap is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. He has been on the show before, the last time was this episode in February of this year.
They begin by tasting the 2023 Chardonnay. It started five weeks late and they didn’t think anything was going to ripen. These grapes are usually picked mid to late September but this time, it was mid October.
“This is a brilliant wine, it has so much personality. It’s crisp and delightful with food, light and only 13% alcohol,” says Dan. There is a chicken truck that parks near the winery that cooks chicken with this wine and herbs. “This is a Chardonnay that doesn’t have that big rich buttery soft center.” It’s a wine made for food. It comes from 3 different vineyards, one in Sebastopol Hills, one in the Santa Rosa plain and one in Petaluma Gap.
Dan says it is round and crisp. There is only one eighth done in oak barrels. That small amount is just a kiss of spice and sweetness. Garry says Chardonnay is risky when it goes through a crazy transformation when being made. If you try to bottle it too soon, it’s bland, says Dan.
Bung and RollIf you stir Chardonnay you can gain and lose different flavors. There is no stirring involved here, they are just waiting. Dan says this was Jim Clendenon’s technique that he called “bung and roll.” He would fill the barrels with Chardonnay, seal it with a bung, roll the barrel away and never touch it.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
Next he has brought a couple of their single vineyard wines. There is one vineyard in southern Petaluma Gap, in Marin County, near Marin French Cheese. It’s cold and windy there. You can’t do barbeque in Petaluma Gap because the wind blows hard at 4:00 every day. As the wind speed goes up it slows down photosynthesis so you get a longer growing season. The coastal influence keeps it cool, so there are more floral notes and a lighter style to the wine.
Dan describes the Azaya vineyard that grew this Pinot Noir. A really good wine has personality and if you use the word great, it has to have many good things about it, such as this one.
They just did their first ever Wine Stroll in Petaluma. All the folks in Petaluma who sell wine, retailers, they sold 400 tickets. Petaluma has a great food scene and the wine scene is growing with the whole city, as an attractive district. They have live music tonight and live comedy tomorrow night. There is Trivia Night on Saturday, this weekend too.
Panther Ridge Pinot NoirThe next wine is the Panther Ridge Pinot Noir, also from the Petaluma Gap, but up on Sonoma Mountain. The vineyard is all volcanic soil, pumice and basalt, that gives dark flavors and good structure to the wine.
Garry majored in Political Science at Duke and was in the Navy, in San Diego, France, Spain and northern California. By the time he was 23 he had tasted wine from all over the world. He was working in Hawaii, for a while selling advertising for the Honolulu Weekly. While going to go to the University of San Diego for an MBA and he met someone who said she was going to UC Davis for Viticulture and Enology. The very existence of such a degree was a surprise. Well, the passion became a job in 2004. He left a well-paying job as an IT project manager in the city and started the winery. All of his business skills carry over to winemaking in ways that help him ensure quality.
The Wier Vineyard Pinot retails for $60. A 2018 is for sale now, already aged for you. This is already aged enough to be in the ‘right spot.’
Brooks Note is open daily from 11-6.Brooks Note is open daily from 11-6. Every Friday they have music from 5-7. Tomorrow (Sat. Dec. 13, 2025) the comedy show is at 8pm, there are tickets available on the website. They have Trivia next Saturday, Dec. 20. They only send ONE email per week. Weir Vineyards has a waiting list. He gets the fruit because his daughter went to school with the owner’s granddaughter and he pulled family friendship strings to get the fruit.
Garry understands that he has to do things to attract attention for his wines. It all came together for him in Petaluma when he found his location. They bought the place in 2019 and it was their covid project to fix it up. Their capacity is up to 150 people for private events.
They have a couple of events, coming up. Dan Durkin the lead singer of Petty Theft, is performing. Bring a can of food to pass on to the homeless center, Friday Dec. 19, 2025. On Feb. 12, 2026 it’s a bigger event, stay tuned to California Wine Country and watch Brooks Notes Wines for more about that.
Bettina Sichel, the owner of Laurel Glen Vineyard is back in the studio as our guest on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. She was on the show once before, on this episode last May.
Bettina has brought a new wine that Dan is tasting for the first time. This is a 2025 Gruner Veltliner from a historic vineyard on Sonoma Mountain, an unusual grape from a historic vineyard. It is most associated with Austria, usually made dry and has a natural richness. It is not as austere as a Riesling can be. Dan suggests a little bit of green tea component in the grape, and some mineral flavors like slate. It is dry and rich at the same time.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling.
The Steiner Vineyard on Sonoma Mountain has two acres of Gruner Veltliner. Dan remembers the Galen Glen Vineyard in Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania also makes a great Gruner Veltliner. Dan appreciates that Laurel Glen Vineyard uses a screw cap. Bettina says that all their white wines are bottled with screw caps.
Dan explains that screw caps work great but with red wines of a certain price, people just expect a cork. Recently some screw cap producers have developed different screw caps that completely seal or that allow a little bit of air. You can choose the cap that matches your intentions as a winemaker. If a wine has to sit on the shelf for a long time, the cap protects the wine better than a cork might do.
They are tasting the Laurel Glen Cabernet, which is blended with about 20% Merlot, to soften it.
Bibiana Ravé
Bibiana Ravé, winemaker and co-owner of Shared Notes, joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country.
Bibana has been on CWC twice, first on this episode of August 29, 2019, to talk about her own wine brand Alma de Cattleya. Then, on April 5, 2023, Bibiana and her husband Jeff Pisoni were on this episode, to talk about Shared Notes.
Bibiana grew up in Medellin, Colombia and studied enology in France. They are tasting a wine from Shared Notes, a winemaking project that she shares with her husband Jeff Pisoni. It is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. The blend is a bit different from year to year, depending on how the Semillon tastes.
French Winemaking in CaliforniaBibiana practices French winemaking techniques in California. She describes winemaking as a personal experience. During her time in France, she stayed there and focussed on French wines only. She didn’t even study Italian or Spanish wines.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling.
Her wines are “bone dry” with no residual sugar. They are on the low-to-middle alcohol level. She believes that it is truly all in the vineyard. They work with great vineyard sites. Their Sauvignon Blanc comes from the Ridge Vineyard, which Dan says is one of the best. The vines are 60 years old and have a low yield per acre. She ways that she could not make the wine that she does, if the growers were not as committed as she is. Dan Berger says this wine shows the ancient style with all the dry flavors that it requires. “Very few people in this world make wine that you want to open when your child is 21.” These wines will support 20 years in the bottle.
[12:38] Dan Berger: “Most people don’t realize, in the olden days, they would make a wine that was one of the greatest wines in the history of mankind and the next vintage they would make something that was undrinkable. Because they didn’t have the science behind them to tell them what they needed to do! Now we have science, so we can do what we need to do to make great wine every single year.”
https://calwinecountry.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/CWC-Promo-EG-Science.mp3
Every choice is a force on the vectorThere is a limit to letting the land and the vineyard speak for themselves. There are choices such as what to plant and where, how many vines per acre? For example, the difference between 848 vines per acre and 2420 vines per acre can completely determine the concentration, the phenolic ripeness and the quality of the fruit. Bibiana describes how she and Jeff wanted to produce wines in California in a way that many people thought could not be done. Dan says that this kind of project takes vision because there is no guarantee that anyone in this country will even understand these wines.
[min. 20] Bibiana describes her arrival in Sonoma County in 2005 and she was making wine at the same facility as Jeff, for different labels. They became friends and then got married.
Shared Notes Colombian Coffee[min. 23] Bibiana has also brought some special Colombian coffee. It is 100% hand grown single origin. The roast is done properly so the smell of coffee is permeating the room. Her two sons are 8 and 10 and she wanted something to connect her family to something positive from her home country. Coffee fits that perfectly. She thought they should start importing green coffee beans and roasting in California. That started in 2019, then in 2022 they started roasting coffee at the winery in Rhonert Park.
Acidity is important for both coffee and wine. Also, both depend on fermentation, since even coffee beans have to be fermented to get the husks off. “I’ve never smelled a light roast with this kind of character,” says Dan Berger.
Peg Champion and Brad Whitworth from the Sonoma County Wine Library join Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. The Sonoma County Wine Library is reopening and the wine community is celebrating the rebirth of this great resource. They even have an Instagram page, here.
The library holdings document the history of wine in Sonoma County, as well as all over. The renovation of the Healdsburg regional library has been a benefit to the wine library too. There is more space for meetings and for study.
The Wine Library Association has just opened The Millie Howie Memorial Garden. She was the founder of the association. They also have several transcriptions of oral history interviews done with wine pioneers starting in the 1950s and ’60s.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling.
Peg, who is president of the Association, talks about their upcoming community events, starting with the Holiday Gathering on December 4. The library is in the center of Healdsburg. There is a photo exhibit of George Rose, the wine country photographer. and on December 16 he will be there for a “meet the photographer” event.
The Atlantic Seaboard Wine Association on Feb. 1They also collaborate with other wine organizations. The Atlantic Seaboard Wine Association will come in on Saturday, February 1, from 4-6 pm for a tasting of the Atlantic Seaboard’s 2024 wine competition award winners.
[@ 12:16] Peg describes the culture in wine country as being open to collaboration and sharing of information. That feels like the opposite of the business culture where NDAs are enforced. The Sonoma County Wine Library is a part of fostering and favoring that open information culture. Dan Berger says that the library is important so that 100 years from now there will be a story to be told. The wineries are too busy trying to stay in business. They don’t have time to document their own history. There are treasures that are the last of their kind, that don’t exist anywhere else. It’s not just for the wineries, it’s for any interested researchers. Peg Champion mentions Megan Jones, the Sonoma County Library research librarian dedicated to this subject.
James MacPhail
James MacPhail is our in-studio guest today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. This is his first time on the show.
James MacPhail tells about how he was able to buy back the rights to his brand in July of 2024, so his business is undergoing a rebirth. He has just finished his thirtieth harvest. He and his wife started a brand in 2012 called Tongue Dancer Wines and he has four other collaborations where he is the winemaker. He works with some of the best vineyards in both Napa and Sonoma counties. Over several years he built his company MacPhail Family Wines, then sold it to Hess, then bought it back. Dan mentions that he will have to reassert his style over the brand’s production. With the tagline, “Crafted by nature, nurtured by hand,” the prospects are very good.
CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling.
“After 30 years, I’m still a kid in a candy store. I still love what I do. I still get up at 4AM. You know? And it has not yet… put me down.” He and his wife collaborate on their company. He just makes the wine and she does everything else. “Sometime she is a lot busier than I am.” Their tasting room is open by appointment.
San Giacomo Family VineyardsDan asks about the connection to San Giacomo Family Vineyards. The name is well known in the wine business but not so much outside. James says the San Giacomo family represents Sonoma County to him. San Giacomo sends grapes to many wineries, but James MacPhail is the only winemaker who lists their name on the label. Dan credits MacPhail with being predicting of what Pinot Noir would become, starting in the early ‘80s. The San Giacomo fruit is “precise” says Dan. The San Giacomo vineyard had early success planting Chardonnay en masse, providing fruit to all the up and coming producers. At that time, UC Davis was really figuring out how to grow Chardonnay.
At first, James made a lot of reds, but he needed to add a white to his production. Dan describes Chardonnay as red wine with no color, and Pinot Noir is like white wine but with color. Pinot Noir is seductive and Chardonnay can be powerful and intense. Dan says they should be served at the same temperature.
James and his wife have been traveling to Italy recently so his knowledge of wine is extending to Italian wines. Vermentino, Arneis and Cortese are Italian white wines that were hardly ever exported until the last 25 years. That is because they have only recently improved production technology, using stainless steel that is temperature controlled. There are more varieties in Italy than anywhere, more than 200 white varieties and 400 reds.
Winemaker Adam Lee is our in-studio guest today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. He has enjoyed a distinguished career as a winemaker and winery owner and now he runs Clarice Wine Co. The last time Adam was on the show was this episode of July 14, 2021.
“If Adam Lee’s in the room, it’s gotta be Pinot Noir,” says Dan Berger, right at first. They are tasting a wine called Dial Tone, which has a picture of an old telephone dial on the label. For Adam Lee, Clarice should be, “…a very good honest Pinot at a reasonable price point.” It is 100% Pinot Noir with no alterations or additions. It uses the less expensive barrels which work well enough and are cheaper. This helps keep the retail price down. Adam remembers that the first wine he ever fell in love with was a 1989 Rocchioli Pinot Noir. It was great and cost about $13. Now he bottles this Pinot Noir and it retails for $19, so he achieved his goal. “Adam Lee is one of the greatest winemakers in America, period,” says Dan Berger.
Adam founded Siduri Wines and also made wine in Oregon and Santa Barbara. He has also started a project in France. Clarice was Adam’s grandmother, born in 1896. She was his best friend growing up and taught him how to cook. There are QR codes on the labels with extensive information about what went into the wine. There is a lot of relevant information that does not fit on a 3×5 index card. Some wineries don’t publish this kind of information. Some people care to know the pH of a wine.
Jake Lachowitzer from Banshee Wines is our guest on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. Banshee Wines was last on this show on this episode of June 1, 2022 which featured their winemaker at the time, Alicia Sylvester. Banshee wines stand out because they “…are so good and so reasonably priced…” says Dan Berger. They have broad distribution and are available “everywhere.”
They begin tasting their Sauvignon Blanc. SV has become an important grape in Sonoma County, especially because winemakers are making it from places like Chalk Hill and Russian River Valley. This one comes from Dry Creek Valley, Chalk Hill and Russian River Valley AVAs.
Dan Berger explains that this variety is capable of holding up against warmer weather later in the year. 2024 will be Jake’s first vintage at Banshee Wines. Their tasting room has moved to Geyserville, from Healdsburg. This wine has good enough acidity that it is made to go with food. Dan likes to serve it with goat cheese. Daedalus suggests gorgonzola with a little bit of honey. Dan suggests to go light on the honey so as not to overpower the wine flavors. He detects some flavors of preserved lemon and Chamomile tea.
Most people don’t age their wines, but the most interesting aspects of wine come out, in whites as well as reds, with a few years in the bottle.
Jake LachowitzerJake Lachowitzer had a long journey to winemaking. He was born in Fargo, ND and had several careers before this. He first studied Sustainability and Environmental Science at Minnesota State University, then he got a graduate degree in winemaking and moved to Sonoma County. His first job was at Sonoma Cutrer in 2019. Then, he was assistant winemaker at Chalk Hill Estate. There isn’t much wine made in the midwest, but there are some varieties that are made to withstand the Minnesota winter. Dan Berger says that the farmers have adapted a cold-hearty variety of grapes to their soil types and weather.
Next they taste the 2024 Banshee Chardonnay. It is sourced from the Sonoma County Banshee estate. There are flavors of creme brulée, lemon curd, banana and nice barrel spice to finish it. It’s 30% new French oak, 9 months aging. Dan mentions the citrus flavors that characterize Sonoma County Chards. Most restaurants will serve it too cold, and the wine will have different flavors. This is because the health departments require refrigerators to be below 40 degrees and they can’t afford a separate refrigerator that is less cold. Today they are drinking it at about 65 or 66 degrees, which is warm enough for the flavors to express themselves.
Next up is a Pinot Noir. Dan Berger says that up to about 20 years ago, it was hard to find the right locations for Pinot Noir. Jake is working with a wide variety of clones and locations.
They also taste a 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, which Dan likes because he remembers it was a cool year. This wine has green herbal flavors and beautiful aromatics, structure and herbal notes. The fruit is mostly from Alexander Valley.
Elaine, the owner of Elaine Wines is our guest today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. She started her winery after a career as an biotech intellectual property attorney. Dan Berger discovered these wines just by tasting them at an event. He was excited to find a Chardonnay that was not overdone and that smelled and tasted like Chardonnay. It is an older style of making Chardonnay that appeals to people like Dan who remember when that style was prevalent. Elaine Wines is a small winery but has already earned a bunch of awards.
This first one for tasting is the 2023 Chardonnay, the youngest one that Elaine brought. All of the Chardonnays are made with fruit from her vineyard. She has three acres with one acre of Chard and two of Pinot Noir. Dan detects a little bit of dried pineapple character and the oak is very subtle. The vineyard is at high elevation and Dan says the wine matches the smell of the vineyard. There are fir trees and oaks nearby which influence the vineyard. Dan also appreciates the good acidity. The vines are 25 feet from their house.
Before Elaine moved to California, she was a biotech patent attorney, with a background in molecular and micro-biology. She got an online certificate in winemaking from UC Davis, before she moved from North Carolina. Elaine found a custom crush where she was not obligated to meet a tonnage minimum, which allowed her to start making wine with a small production. She found a community of helpful people in California, who work in wine. That is uniform throughout most wine regions in the world, says Dan Berger.
Dan says that Prohibition may have ended in 1933 but it was the 1960s before winemaking woke up in the US, in California mostly.
ChardonnaysThe second Chardonnay they taste came from the same grapes, but the first had newer barrels and the 2022 was made in one single barrel that had been used once before. That is generally considered 50% new. She only made 23 cases of this, because they had a very low yield and she had promised some grapes to another winemaker. This wine won a Double Gold at the San Francisco Chronicle wine tasting. Dan says that the problem with a lot of Chardonnay today is that it has to be big and rich. This is the other side of the spectrum of types of Chard.
A lot of people making Chardonnay are trying to make a wine that they think will sell. Elaine, on the other hand, came into this without that notion at all. She just lets the vineyard do what it can do, and then handle it in a way to bring that out. Don’t serve it too cold, because the flavors won’t come out. What’s more, this wine is a 2022 and it has had enough time to reach full maturity. She likes to do “as little as I can” and treat it gently.
Pinot NoirThe next tasting is a Pinot Noir that earned 99 points and a Double Gold from the American Fine Wine Competition, and Gold Medals all over the place. Dan says that the judges like it when the dominant flavor is fruit not oak. Dan describes the flavor of beets that is hiding in the wine.
Nicola Pellacani of Saintsbury Winery joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country today.
Dan Berger explains that Saintsbury has been around for about 40 years with a record of getting better and better all the time and Nico will tell us their story.
Saintsbury used to be focussed on Carneros and now have shifted toward Sonoma Coast. Nico has brought their Sonoma Coast Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, made from their favorite vineyards.
They start with the 2023 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. Most of it comes from a San Giacomo family vineyard. Dan Berger describes the cool climate influence with a bit of the complexity of Chablis and a light acidity. Saintsbury has been using this vineyard for a long time. Some of the planting was even done for Saintsbury.
Where the senses and the mind come togetherThe process of building a blend involves three or four passes. Nicola describes blending as a process where “…senses and mind come together. You have to allow yourself to reach that point.” Nicola started at Saintsbury as an intern in 2018. He worked on his first harvest that year, while was still a student in viticulture and enology at the University of Bologna in Italy. He is now the assistant winemaker
A family winery with a family atmosphereNico grew up in Italy and wine is on the table all the time. Dan Berger is eager to learn from the younger people in the world of wine. People’s palettes have evolved and this continues, just as weather patterns have changed. Nico mentions two mentors at Saintsbury, they are Tim Colla, the head winemaker at Saintsbury, and Jaime, their cellar master who has been there for 20 years. They have lots of conversations and taste lots of blends. They have family style lunch every Friday at Saintsbury. Having come from Italy, Nico is grateful to have a family feeling at Saintsbury.
Dan Berger describes the house style of Saintsbury, which has remained consistent for 40 years.
Next they taste a pétillant-naturel, which is abbreviated to pét-nat. It has very small and light bubbles and Dan declares it is delightful. They only made about 150 cases of it.
Saintsbury has an event scheduled for November 1, 2025, at the Napa winery at 1500 Los Carneros Ave. It is a celebration of past and present winemakers. It is structured as a market, with local artisans.
Winemakers Greg Morthole and Chris O’Gorman join Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. Greg is the winemaker at Davis Bynum.
They are here to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Davis Bynum’s wine company. He was a pioneer in Russian River Valley and was one of the first to make Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir is difficult to grow properly.
Davis Bynum’s father was a journalist and wrote a book about how to make wine. Davis became a journalist from the age of 25 to 40 for the San Francisco Chronicle. At 40 he studied winemaking at the Berkeley library and went through a few “hard knocks.”
Dan points out that the one thing about Russian River Valley is that the weather is cool. The wines had natural acidity and did not need to be adjusted. Davis liked the natural style of winemaking because they required less work. His wines were always very good. When Dan interviewed him in 1986, he was making Merlot which he loved. Greg remembers that Davis would also play music to the vines. He started by raising organic grapes but got tired of paying certification fees.
Davis BynumGreg Morthole got to work with Davis Bynum, who passed away in 2017 at the age of 92. He was an interesting character and Greg heard a lot of stories from him.
They taste a 2023 Davis Bynum Dutton Origin Chardonnay (on the left, in the picture above). It has a beautiful rich personality. Dan calls it almost Burgundian in its aromatics. It has good acidity so it could be served with rich seafoods like lobster. It will probably get better after 2 or 3 years in the bottle. This wine come from a block that the Dutton family has been farming since the 1880s.
The 50th Anniversary WineThe next tasting is the 50th Anniversary wine, a 2023 vintage. Dan Berger loves it but Greg Morthole gives credit to the weather. That year the ripening was slow, then there was some rain, and only then, the fruit ripened perfectly. “Mother nature just gave us a great wine,” says Greg. Dan suggests, and Greg agrees, that the ripening conditions this year remind him of 2023. They only made 35 cases of it.
Ventura Smalley, Harry Duke, Cathy Ratto and Dan Berger.
Dan Berger and Harry Duke are in the studio together on California Wine Country today on the Italian holiday of Ferragosto. Our expected guest was not available.
California Wine Country is brought to you by the 40th annual WineSong!
Ferragosto is the Italian holiday celebrated on August 15th. It is the middle of summer vacation season in Italy. It is also a religious holiday, the Catholic Feast of the Assumption. Dan describes the rich history of Ferragosto and how a holiday with ancient roots is still an annual occurrence.
Dan Berger has brought a bottle of his Bahl Fratty Riesling, and several other wines. The Bahl Fratty is probably the driest Riesling ever made anywhere. There are also some red wines to taste.
Bahl FrattyBahl Fratty is Boontling for good wine. There is a typewriter on the label, which reminds us of Dan Berger’s illustrious career as a print journalist.
The 40th Winesong Weekend Celebration is Sept. 5-6, 2025. Click the Winesong 40th logo for details.
The next among the wines that Dan Berger has brought today is a 2024 Chateau Montelena Riesling. They have been making this exact same wine for a long time. It has aromas of tropical fruit, pineapple, a spice component, it’s not entirely dry, but it’s not sweet, just barely off-dry. It would go well with Thai or Chinese food.
Riesling is a grape variety that requires a cooler climate, or if not cool, it needs high winds to cool it off. There is only a little Riesling left in Russian River Valley, and some in Carneros and Petaluma Gap.
Harry asks Dan to tell about how Steve Jaxon introduced himself and invited Dan to join the show. They met for coffee and did a show that day, and have done it weekly since 2017, eight years ago. “It’s been an absolute blast,” says Dan. Dan mentions a lot of our regular guests, people with a great story to tell, like Don Chigazola from Chigazola Merchants, Alan Baker from Cartograph Wines, Darryl Miller from Delingher Wines. People travel long distances sometimes, to be on the show. Carol Shelton is another favorite, and Harry agrees.
FerragostoDan describes the Italian holiday of Ferragosto, pronouncing it almost correctly, so Chris DiMatteo in Los Angeles calls in with the right sound and little more about the story of this important Italian holiday. This gives Chris the chance to raise a glass of Dan Berger’s Bahl Fratty Riesling and to toast Steve Jaxon, who has been a friend and mentor to Chris. Cin-cin, maestro!
Dan’s next tasting is a 2018 Syrah from Carneros. Syrah is considered a warm climate variety and Carneros is a cool region. So Dan decided to give it a few years to test it and it turned out to be “really really good.” It’s not a dark red but has a white pepper character. It was released probably is 2021 and the white pepper component has developed. It also has some dried violet character, which Harry can’t confirm. Cuvaison has been in business for close to 50 years and has owned that vineyard for about that long. This wine produces “an explosion of flavors” says Harry.
Winemaker Michael Browne is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Daedalus Howell is sitting in for Steve Jaxon today. Michael has brought a few wines today.
The first pour is a 2020 Santa Rita Hills, made under his Cirq label. It his is focus on Russian River. His other brand, Chev, focuses on all the west coast, from Oregon to Central California.
The Santa Rita Hills is interesting to him because “it really moves in your mouth…it has a lot of movement. … It has massive presence. If you let it sit on your palette just a bit, you can kind of see that.” It is not heavy but it has presence. It has what he calls intense elegance. Michael Browne wrote a book called Pinot Rocks, subtitled A Journey Through Intense Elegance. He describes good wine as a piece of music, with high notes, middle notes and low notes. Daedalus calls it, “a wine that went to charm school.”
The Song and the InstrumentsThe “song” has been written in the vineyard and the barrels are the “instruments” that will play it. Dan Berger has one last bottle of a 2005 Santa Rita Pinot Noir that is one of the best he has ever tasted.
California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.
Next to be tasted is under the Chev label, which is Russian River, heart and soul. It’s a wine to be aged, or decanted at least. Their 2013s, ’14s and ’15s are in great shape right now.
In the 1990s there was an explosion of Pinot Noir producers in California and also Willamette Valley in Oregon. When Kosta Browne started, they were the second wave, doing unique things with Pinot Noir. He tasted a “substantial” Pinot Noir from Williams-Selyem and asked winemaker Burt Williams for advice on how to achieve that result. He learned how to time his harvest to get exactly that result. They are also tasting a Santa Lucia Highlands wine.
Michael Browne talks about making wine with “the Garys,” who are growers Gary Pisoni and Gary Franscioni. Gary Pisoni runs Pisoni Family Vineyards while Gary and Rosella Franscioni run Gary’s Vineyard and ROAR Wines. Both of them are located in the Santa Lucia Highlands. “They are the best growers that I know… They are family to me, big time.”
Today’s pre-show guest is Rex Pickett, author of Sideways. The main show guest is Trevor Durling, Winemaker from BV, Beaulieu Vineyard. This show was recorded on August 9, 2017 eight years ago. Due to a technical glitch, there is no recording of the live show recorded today, August 1, 2025. So for our podcast listeners, we offer this jewel of a Highlight show, in its place. Enjoy!
In the live segment before CWC begins at the top of the hour, Steve and Dan visit with Rex Pickett, author of Sideways, the book, movie and now stage play. Then after the main show, we will hear more of Steve’s interview with Rex Pickett.
Rex Pickett, author of Sideways.
First, Dan tells that somebody called him on the telephone way back in the ‘90s when he was writing at the LA Times, to ask him about Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara and Santa Ynez, the area where the book is set. Dan never got his name, and after the movie came out, Dan always assumed the call had come from Rex, but Rex says he wasn’t the caller.
The movie Sideways was not really about Merlot, it was more about Pinot Noir, or people, really. The situation of the market for Merlot changed as a consequence of the movie. The book was about Pinot Noir, not about Merlot. Dan says that Rex put his finger on the pulse of the industry at the time, what people were talking about in the industry then, which was that Pinot Noir was starting to take off in the US and particularly in cooler regions, Santa Barbara and Sonoma Counties in particular.
A story about people, that happened to have wine in it.But it was a book about personalities and people, and only incidentally about wine. In Dan’s opinion, it was a great book and movie but it really tapped into something that was more wine-related than what Rex was hoping for.
Rex tells that he was starting to go to wine tastings and loved the lyricism and poetry about describing wine, (apart from some pretentiousness). Rex didn’t know that the wine tasting scene would become so important in the movie.
Merlot and the CinemaMerlot had been “overcropped” at the time and the movie thinned out the herd, as a lot of poor Merlot producers no longer make it. They agree that the movie did a lot for Pinot Noir and at that time we were starting to get away from the routine Cabernet-Chardonnay and into other wines and Pinot Noir was the one that first broke through, and that the movie picked up on that momentary market trend. Dan points out that in 1992 California had 8,000 acres of Merlot. In 1995, there were 58,000 acres of Merlot. Rex says they were mechanized-farming it and Steve says it just wasn’t that good. Dan says there is good Merlot all over the place now but you have to be very careful what you buy because we’re down to about 29,000 arcres now, which is way too much, and planted in the wrong places.
Steve tells that his friend Jim from BV is there and he talks about when they were in DC, in April. Jim was there, he started singing and Steve was playing piano. Later we will hear a musical excerpt.
At the intro to the main show, Steve re-introduces Rex Pickett, author of the book, screenplay and the new stage adaptation of Sideways which will be on stage in Santa Rosa from September 8 through October 1 (2017).
Dan introduces Trevor Durling, winemaker at BV, which has been around since 1900. It was the home of the great André Tchelistcheff, starting in the 1930s up to around 1973. The BV style of the wines had been formed and it’s not easy to shift. It’s like turning an ocean liner. The problem always had been to use French oak versus American oak. BV started using American oak, for Cabernet. The fact is that BV didn’t make certain grapes that had become popular, such as Zinfandel. Dan talked to André about that and André said he would not know how to make Zinfandel, as he didn’t know it.
Beaulieu VineyardsBV is a historic property and makes more varieties now. The flagship is still the BV Private Reserve. Trevor tells that was born and raised in Santa Rosa and had wine at the dinner table from a young age. But it wasn’t until he went to UC Davis and took a winemaking class that he got interested seriously. He realized the Davis program was special and then was hired as a harvest intern at a winery. Trevor loves the combination of art and science in this kind of agriculture and he also loves that it’s a social product that you can enjoy with friends and family and good food.
He’s going into his 16th vintage. Steve says he is proof that drinking wine keeps you young and makes you look good. He just joined BV four months ago, so this year is his first vintage. He spent the last 8 years across the highway at Provence and Hewitt vineyards. which is in the same winemaking network as BV so he has worked with some of the same growers and vintners, so there is continuity in his present position.
Dan says that Trevor also worked with Tom Rinaldi at Provenance, who is his mentor. He says he will write a book about working with him. Joel Aiken is carrying André Tchelistcheff’s legacy forward. Dan visited the property with André 6 months before he passed away and he spoke highly of Joel. During the interview Joel joined the conversation and talked about converting from French Oak to American Oak. Joel kept the traditions going that have kept BV at the top of the game, ever since 1900 with George de la Tour himself founded the winery.
Who’s a snob, and what do you drink?Steve asks Rex to talk about his experience with wine and how he came to write Sideways. He says that at a certain time in his life he was living in LA and playing golf to take his mind of heavy issues of family life, and the golf courses in LA were expensive but the ones up near Santa Barbara were not, so he went up there to play and got to know the wineries in the area. At the same time, he was living in LA and going to wine tastings at a local store. Dan tells that at the time wine was the snob beverage and beer was the popular beverage. But the movie Sideways showed that wine was something for everyone. Dan points out that Sideways changed the way that wine was perceived.
They taste a BV 2014 Carneros Chardonnay. Dan says it’s an elegant style, not overblown, as the oak is in check. It has mid-palette richness and cripness, together.
Trevor tells that it was made 100% from BV ranch grapes in the Carneros district, 100% barrel fermented, with about 60% new oak and half of that is put through malolactic fermentation, “…to add a little bit of the mouth feel.” Everything is aged sur lies. Steve calls a Geek Alert. Trevor explains that that means that after fermentation is finished, there is some yeast and solid content in there, and they stir the barrels which adds mouth feel and viscosity in the wine.
More about Sideways and more BV winesAfter the break, Steve re-introduces today’s crew and asks everyone to talk about Sideways. Dan says that it was pure entertainment, but that if you think of all the implications that it had on the wine business and on society in general, it’s really far more monumental. Steve again points out that rather than being a movie about wine, it’s about two guys and their live lives and Rex mentions that the Paul Giamatti character Miles is based on his life at the time.
Next they taste some BV reds. First, the 2013 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon. Among the different Cabernets that they make, Dan says the standard bearer is the Rutherford. He says it shows what André Tchelistcheff called Rutherford dust, not the actual soil dust but the faint dried herbal components that come from there and not from other Napa Valley districts.
Trevor thinks of it as a chocolatey cocoa powder texture which is typical of the Rutherford appellation.
Dan has had examples of Rutherford wines that last 30 years in the cellar.
Next they open a 2014 Tapestry Cabernet, with more guts and power to it. Dan says this wine carries more of the modern style and the older generation would prefer the Rutherford.
TapestryTrevor notes that the Tapestry is a fun wine to make because it is a red blend and is not held to having a specific varietal dominate it. Typically it is Cabernet Sauvignon based but will use some Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, in different proportions each year, to make the best red wine they can make each year.
Finally they open what Dan calls “The Monster” which is the George de la Tour Private Reserve, which has been made since the 1930s. It has gone through some changes thanks to some conditions in the 1940s and 1950s. Trevor talks about how they had to change to American oak back then because French oak was too hard to get, thanks to the war and economic conditions. Trevor tells how that remained a style of the private reserve, up until the 90s, when they started re-introducing French oak.
After the close of the California Wine Country show, we hear the rest of Steve’s interview with Rex Pickett, which was recorded before the CWC hour.
Author Rex Pickett, author of the book Sideways, which became the movie and is now a play. Rex says the adaptation is based on the novel and has been performed before, in Santa Monica. He agreed to do the production under the condition that they could pour high end Pinot Noir at the theater. Rex describes how the play was first produced. They discuss how the author adapted the book and movie into the play. He wanted the play to maintain as much as possible of the movie’s style, which meant a lot of scenes and set changes. The production of Sideways ran from September 8 to October 1, 2017, at the Left Edge Theater in the Luther Burbank Center in Santa Rosa.
Kyle Cameron and Gianna Fugazi of Trecini Winery are our first-time guests on California Wine Country with Daedalus Howell in for Steve Jaxon, and with Dan Berger.
Kyle is a seventh generation Russian River Valley farmer. They are farming grapes now. He and his wife Christina bought Trecini Winery in order to get more involved in the rest of the wine business, apart from growing grapes. The wine market is in a downturn, so he has a positive outlook. Dan Berger says this downturn is a predictable one or two year cyclic drop.
Giana Fugazi is originally from Linden, California, where she grew up on a cherry orchard. She studied wine business and archaeology at Sonoma State. Her dad calls grape growing “fancy farming.” She worked as an archaeologist in Italy for three years.
California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.
Dan Berger believes that the future will include more Italian grape varieties. He peaks to retailers all around the country and the world. Retailers are telling him that there is less enthusiam for the Number one varietals in white and red, which are Chards and Cabs. There are many wines that used to be obscure that people are asking for. “I’m interested in making any kind of obscure wine,” says Kyle.
Dan’s Albariño and Gianna’s VerdoloAs a starter, Dan has brought a wine from grape grower Francis Mahoney, a friend of his. It is a 2024 Albariño, quite dry, sells for about $24 a bottle. It’s in a lot of local retain shops. Gianna has brought a Verdolo from Portugal. There are less than 500 acres of this grape in California. This is a 2024 from Taft Street, where Gianna is a series winemaker. This is her first take, a 100% neutral barrel. The organic grapes are from Calaveras County. She fermented it outside in barrels, no temperature control, then she consolidated it into an egg (concrete). There was no temperature control, so it was risky but successful.
Darryl Miller from Dehlinger Winery is back on California Wine Country today with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He has been on the show before, the last time was this episode, last summer.
This is the 50th anniversary of Dehlinger Winery. Darryl has known the family for forty years. Tom Dehlinger was a biochemist and got the wine bug. He studied wine at Davis and worked with some local wineries. Then, bought a property on the corner of Vine Hill Road and Guerneville Road in 1972. He and his brother built an octagonal house in the middle of the property which is iconic. They crushed their first grapes in 1975.
Dan Berger started writing about wine at that time and tasted his first Dehlinger wines in 1979. They were among the first to plant grapes in the area which would later become Pinot Noir and Chardoheaven. The other local pioneers were the Rocchioli and Martinelli vineyards, not far from there. The vineyard is a rolling hill property with two types of soil, Altamont, a red iron based clay, and Goldridge, a gray sandy loam. The sections of the vineyard with different soils produce different results in the wine. This is why they produce some wines from each section and soil type.
Bahl Fratty RieslingThe 40th Winesong Weekend Celebration is Sept. 5-6, 2025. Click the Winesong 40th logo for details.
Dan Berger has brought a bottle of his Bahl Fratty Riesling It is a 2023 that just got a Gold Medal at the American Fine Wine Competition in Miami. The grapes are from Cole Ranch in Mendocino County, near Booneville. Bahl Fratty means Good Drink in Boontling, the local lingo. Dan’s goal was to make the wine as dry as possible. The 2022 was also a gold medal winner.
Darryl went to college in Humbolt State then moved to Seattle and worked as a waiter. He met someone who suggested he could sell wine and he did end up selling a lot of wine. The business took him to San Francisco, Hawaii and Tahoe. Eventually he ended up in Sonoma County, the same year as Dan, in 1981. He started his own company as a broker and sold some very famous wines like Taft Street, Davis Bynum and Iron Horse. Then in 1995 he sold his company to the Henry Wine Group and continued to work with them. Darryl is one of the judges at Dan Berger’s annual wine competition.
There are different ways to know good wine but what’s really important is what you like. -Darryl Miller
California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.
Dehlinger makes about 8,000 cases of wine per year, but they grow enough grapes for 40,000. Many famous wineries get grapes from them, whose names are not to be made public. The rest of the show is the tasting of the wines Darryl has brought.
First is the 2021 Goldridge Pinot Noir. Round, rich and juicy, Dan says silky with a crisp finish. The next one is also a Pinot Noir, from the Altamont soil section, that has more structure because it also gets some whole cluster fermentation. Darryl calls the Altamont tighter, stronger with more minerality. Visit the website for details.
Matt Duffy from Vaughn Duffy Wines joins Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country today. Daedalus Howell is also in. He is doing an hour every weekday from 2 to 3 PM on Wine Country Radio.
Vaughn Duffy specializes in Pinot Noir. They make 8 or 10 Pinot Noir wines from Russian River Valley and Petaluma Gap. Their tasting room is on Sonoma Highway next to Palooza Restaurant. Today he has brought two bottles of Pinot Noir. The San Giacomo vineyard and Uberroth vineyard, as well as a barrel sample of another Pinot Noir that is in production.
Petaluma GapIn August there will be a tasting event that culminates on August 10 at a new venue in Santa Rosa called The Backdrop. There will be over 100 Petaluma Gap wines to taste.
Petaluma Gap is one of the greatest wine growing regions that gets its cool climate from the wind. This keeps the acidity levels high. As the climate gets warmer, regions like Petaluma Gap will enjoy favorable conditions. The wind comes up every evening at about 5:00 and it is unstoppable. The region is ideal for Pinot Noir but they grow Grenache, Syrah and Blau Frankish. Great Pinot Noir will not be dark red, and Dan noticed that about these wines.
California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.
Pinot Noir lovers have been drinking Petaluma Gap wines since even before the AVA of Petaluma Gap was establihed in 2017. Before that, it was all Sonoma Coast AVA. But Sonoma Coast is a gigantic area and it made sense to carve out the Petaluma Gap due to its unique conditions and results.
The Wind to Wine Festival is coming on August 8, 9 & 10 with exclusive vineyard walks, winery tours and the great tasting on August 10 with super-chef Charlie Palmer.
Matt Duffy and his wife Sarah Vaughn are about to make their sixteenth consecutive bottling. His first year working was 2007. After being a harvest worker and learning winemaking from the process of doing it. He and his wife bought some grapes in 2009 and started making wine, while he was still working his day job managing the crush facility. They have a tasting room in Kenwood in the Sonoma Valley. “The wine business is a long game. It takes a year or two to get your line into the bottle to sell it… You’ve got to stick it out… Keep going, keep growing… look for better vineyards every year.”
David Hejl from Domaine Della is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Blair Hardman is also in the studio today. The Domaine Della winery is named after David’s mother, Della.
David used to be the CEO and general manager for Kosta Browne. He worked for Kosta Browne winery after they were sold to new owners. He was entrusted with managing the staff through a transition to go from 10,000 cases per year to 30,000.
Before that, David started in the 1980s living in Paris, France, working for Nabisco. He had great French wine at dinner every night. That was the exposure to wine that started his lifelong interest.
California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.
They are tasting a Chardonnay that Dan Berger calls, “Chardonnay to make you wake up,” and, “incredible.” David gives credit to the vineyard, one of Sonoma County’s finest. It’s all about picking to get the perfect acidity. He also prefers not to use too much oak. That is how he gets the fruit to take the lead.
Dan calls this wine perfectly balanced. It has the rich fruit that you want, but the acidity to make it pair well with food. It is a remarkable balance between big and delicate. And of course, it should get better in about three years.
David says, “We’ll be in harvest before you know it!”Then they open a Pinot Noir. He uses fruit from some of the same vineyards that supplied Kosta Browne. The owners and growers are longtime friends. They are 85% direct to consumer. The rest sells through charity events around the country.
Dan says the Pinot Noir is excellent, and has all the best characteristics of Russian River Pinot Noir. Elegant, raspberry aromas, a little bit of cherry, and a spice component. David explains that there are 6 different clones, in two different vineyards.
Dan, Melissa and Deadalus.
Melissa Galliani and Daedalus Howell are our guests on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. Melissa Galliani is the GM of Wine Country Radio. Deadalus Howell is the editor of the North Bay Bohemian and some other local publications. He is also a frequent guest on The Drive with the Boho Buzz, a regular feature of what’s currently in the paper. Lisa Santos, the advertising director of The Bohemian, is also in.
This is Bay Area Burger Week. Co-incidentally, Dan Berger wrote an article this week about hamburger meat and hamburger sandwiches. There is just one vowel of difference between burger and Berger! There is a promotion with restaurants that have specials throughout the 12-day “week.” Daedalus has a trivia question for listeners, which is, what actor played the part of McDonald’s entrepreneur Ray Kroc in the movie The Founder? Listener Kelley knew that answer is Michael Keaton and she wins the prize. Later we will ask who played Pussy Galore in Goldfinger? Honor Blackman is the answer.
After all the banter, the wines.Terry Damskey from Dehlinger Winery could not come in as scheduled today. So Dan Berger has brought a few wines from Bottle Barn for tasting and discussion. The first one tasted is a Washington state wine which was at Bottle Barn for a mere $4.99. Today is the first day of summer, so there will be a lot of whites (and Rosés) on the show.
California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.
Then they taste a 2022 Babich Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. It is on sale at a close-out price at Bottle Barn. There is also a Cinsault from Lodi, California. The winery is called Jesse’s Grove. They have their own vineyards, some of which are original vines planted in 1886. They have some of the oldest Cinsault grapes in the world. Finally, Ammunition is a Sonoma County Pinot Noir.
Wine importer Don Chigazola is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, with newly arrived wines from Alto Adige. His company Chigazola Merchants brings small lots of carefully selected wines from small family producers in many different regions of Italy. Steve Jaxon describes what he does as “…the coolest job in the world.” Melissa Galliani is also with us in the studio today.
Don begins by describing how he has recently expanded his activity into France, by applying the same model that they do to their business with Italian winemakers.
They went to the Paris wine show, and they also spent some time visiting family winemakers in Provence. They met with four and they will definitely be importing from two of them. That will begin once the tariff situation settles down.
Chigazola MerchantsDon started traveling to Italy with his wife Debbie, visiting small hilltop towns, asking the locals about who made the best wine. He found a lot of great wine, and noticed that the quality of wines he found in Italy was not available here. So he figured out how to import wine from Italy, to sell directly to consumers. He needed three different licenses and eventually fulfilled all the requirements.
California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.
In the first few years, Chigazola Merchants sold about 80% of their wine to local bars and restaurants, and 20% to individuals. That proportion has reversed now, since their wine club has grown so much.
Today Don has brought some white wines from the Alto Adige region, where they grow grapes at very high altitude. The wines come out with high minerality and fresh acidity. The first are tasting a Riesling that arrived in California last February. This Riesling is bone dry. Dan Berger calls this wine the anti-Chardonnay. It’s not so dry that it’s austere. It has fresh clean aromatics and it goes with food. Melissa agrees that it tastes fresh and crisp. The Rieslings from this producer will age well.
The second wine they taste is a Sylvaner, which is a dry white variety very different than the Riesling. Dan says it is oriented to delicate foods, as a delicate wine. It could go with halibut or sturgeon. Riesling is more aromatic, this wine is more minerally. Melissa suggests Teriyaki Sea Bass. These wines are all 2023s.
The third wine is a varietal that if very difficult to find here in California called Kerner. It typically makes a little sweeter wine, a little bit like Gruner Veltliner. It has a nice balance between sugar and acid. It’s a “porch pounder” says Dan.
Meet the ProducersThere is a section on the Chigazola Merchants website called Our Producers where you can learn more about the families that produce the wines that Don imports.
The fourth varietal tasted today is a Gewürtztraminer. Usually that is a sweet wine, but Dan describes this one as “succulent without being sweet.” The label says 3g of residual sugar, which Dan calls “nothing.” Dan says it’s not an easy wine to make because you have to be in a really cold climate and know exactly when to pick the grapes. The producer makes a very small amount and sells most of it in their local village. Don got 10 cases. Dan Berger says it is the most amazing Gewürtztraminer he has ever tasted.
Leah Scurto and Chris Puppione.
Chris Puppione from Puppione Family Wines joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today.
Leah Scurto from PizzaLeah is also here, and she brought several different pizzas. We will try some pizza and wine pairings.
Chris Puppione starts telling the story of the family winery. He had worked in wine and thought of bottles of wine as time capsules. So when his first daughter was born, he made a wine for her to celebrate her birth. A neighbor in the Russian River area sold him one ton of Syrah grapes.
He even told a tall tale to his wife to get her to come out and prune the first grapes for their wine. When the second daughter was born he made another wine and they kept on making wine that connects to their family history. This wine they are tasting today is a 2017.
California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.
Dan Berger discovered Puppione Family Wines when he was a judge in a blended red category at a recent competition. Immediately he liked it so much he found out who made it. It was a really low alcohol wine, which Dan likes. About 10 days later, Dan found the winery and met Chris for the first time. Chris Puppione mentions his day job, he oversees US wineries for Coravin, a company that makes wine equipment.
Pizza and Wine PairingsFesta Bianco + Sicilian
We’re going to do pizza and wine pairing today. Leah Scurto has brought four different pizzas, each one with very different flavors. We will pair them with four Puppione wines.
The first pairing is a bottle of Festa Bianco, a white wine, with the Sicilian pizza. Festa was Chris’ grandmother’s maiden name. The Sicilian pizza has Castelvetrano olives, Italian salame, chili flakes, ricotta and a little red onion. The wine is a Friulano, which is a northern Italian white wine often mistaken for Sauvignon Blanc. It goes well with green vegetables and salads. It come from the Friuli region of Italy, which is the north-eastern part of the country, next to Slovenia.
Festa Rosso + Nico
The next pizza is the Nico, which is an award winner. It has confit garlic, fresh rosemary, black pepper and Italian sausage. This is paired with Festa Rossa, which is a blend of Syrah, Cabernet and Friulano. It is again, pretty low alcohol.
PizzaLeah’s Cold Fermentation DoughDan calls PizzaLeah’s pizza the most classic pizza in Sonoma County. A lot of factors make PizzaLeah’s pizza special. Importantly, the dough is made by a slow, cold fermentation process. She uses local flour from Central Milling. She makes dough fresh daily. Only after two or three days of proofing in cold storage does it become pizza. Extended fermentation makes bread more digestible. It also gives the dough the right texture. Some deep dish pizzas are not really even pizza, they are more like cake. For comparison, it’s almost more like a casserole. PizzaLeah does have two Detroit-style pan pizzas. The crust comes out looking like a brick but light as a feather when you eat it.
Juventus + Spade
Dan appreciates Chris Pappapietro’s wine for the abundant fruit flavors. To make their Friulano, he had to go up into the hills near Tahoe, to a vineyard called Snow’s Crossing. It’s an alpine wilderness. They foot stomp all of their fruit, just like his grandfather did. His kids get into the bins and stomp fruit. There are pictures of that on their site. Especially, they left the Friulano on the skins in order to get more flavors from it.
Next up is the Juventus wine, named after the goddess of youth and rejuvenation (not the soccer team). Instead, he wanted to make a red wine that would invigorate people instead of bringing heaviness. He made it in stainless steel which helps maintain the fruit flavors.
An American Pizza, An Italian AwardSyrah + Detroit Pepperoni
The Spade pizza won an award in the American category in a competition in Napoli.
The next wine is their Intero Syrah. Intero means “whole” in Italian. It is the first wine that his whole family stomped on, but also they stomped on whole clusters. Leah has paired it perfectly with the original Detroit pepperoni pizza, which is finished with their hot meatball sauce. It has a little bit of Pecorino Romano. Steve grew up in Detroit and doesn’t remember the term “Detroit” pizza, it was all just pizza. Detroit style is very popular these days.
Dan and Paul from Small Vines.
Paul Sloan from Small Vines Wines joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. Daedalus Howell also joins us today. Small Vines Wines makes “world class wines of distinction.” Paul grew up in Sonoma County on a 250-acre horse and cattle ranch, on the eastern side of Santa Rosa. He worked in restaurants and ended up at John Ash & Co., known as one of the original farm-to-table restaurants.
His favorite wines were always from families that grew the fruit and also made the wine. When he fell in love with age-worthy, food-friendly wines, he continued to work for the Dutton family and studied viticulture at Santa Rosa JC. He planted some high-density vineyards over the years and his wines come from them.
High-Density VinesDan Berger says that the predictions of weather are less reliable than ever, as climate change is not uniform. Paul finds that high-density planting helps, in hot years by shading the vines. High density planting works but you have to take careful care of the vines.
Paul was the first person to actually design a wine with good natural acidity by planting high density vines.
California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.
Phylloxera is a root louse that is so small it is hard to see. It chews on certain roots and in particular, native roots. So you have to choose rootstock that is impervious to it. It appeared in the late 1980s. It was inevitable that all the vines affected had to be torn out and the vineyards replanted.
The more leaf surface you have, the more dappled sunlight you have, instead of direct light. By planting a 4-foot tractor row instead of an 8-foot tractor row, you can get fifty percent less direct sunlight on the fruit.
Daedalus asks about automation and the potential to use drones in the vineyard. Paul tells about advanced tractors that gather data. The high end producers will continue to do things by hand, but a lot of less expensive wines will have to use some automation. Dan Berger mentions that a lot of the automation is in the winery, rather than in the vineyard. There are tanks with built-in chemical analysis equipment. Also, sorting the fruit is still an important manual process. Ideally, you only harvest the ideally formed clusters of fruit.
Their first tasting is a 2021 TBH Chardonnay, that demonstrates the fruit selection. They sort the fruit on the vine. You only take the ideal length of cluster and diameter of berries. Their 2021 Chardonnay is the current release. His goal is to make age-worthy, food-friendly wines, so he sees no reason not to hold his wines for a few years before releasing them.
Erica, Judy & Doug.
Doug Mryglod, Judy Phillips and Erica Stancliff from Deodora Wine are our guests with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. Daedalus Howell is also in the studio today.
This is the first time that Doug and Judy have been on the show for Deodora Estate Vineyards. Erica Stancliff has been on CWC before on this episode of June 24, 2020.
Dan Berger introduces Deodora for winning a gold medal for a dry Riesling at the latest wine competition. The 2019 that won was up against some very stiff competition.
The 2024 is maybe better, says Dan. Judy says they bottled it back in February and this is the first bottle they are opening. The grapes come from “an amazing site in the Petaluma Gap.” This is precisely what the American consumer wants, and doesn’t know it. It is dry but not too much, with just enough personality in the aftertaste to suggest what kind of food it would go with. It should be served chilled but not ice cold. Dan describes plumeria, wild tropical fruit, and citrus flavors. The lime flavors will come out in about two years. Judy says Dan’s commentary makes the perfect tasting notes for this wine. It is not gripping and so lemony.
California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.
Daedalus Howell is also here today. He notices the minerality in this wine, “a quiet little whisper” of slate, underneath the fruit flavors. It was barreled in concrete, there was no malolactic fermentation, and there was one neutral French oak barrel, and stainless steel.
Doug tells the Deodora story that starts with Judy. In 2012 they got a property that was an old goat farm. It took them months to clean it up and decide what to plant. There is a story behind the Riesling. He worked with Ford family in the Finger Lakes region, Heron Hill wine. Doug fell in love with Riesling after tasting theirs.
Doug’s Riesling made for himselfDoug didn’t want his Riesling to be too dry or too sweet, just in the middle, and for himself only. Dan says, “I did the same thing… just for me.” Dan says that Riesling makes itself if you have the right grapes. Judy says it was hard for them to believe they won that award for the Riesling.
Erica Stancliff tells how she was born and raised in Forestville with parents who were home winemakers. They started Trombetta Winery where Erica is the winemaker. Her mentor was Paul Hobbs and she is now a winemaker for various local labels. She loves Petaluma Gap for the wind, climate, Sonoma coast influence and the fog. That makes it perfect, absolutely perfect for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and also Riesling.
Daedalus asks Erica if their friend Chris Sawyer, the “sommelier to the stars” is really the originator of the term Petaluma Gap. He claimed it, says Daedalus. Erica has a precise technical description of the climate that makes for slow development of brix levels. In Petaluma Gap you only get a few hours of the peak heat, before the wind comes in every day.
The name Deodora comes from an old tree that is on a property he owns on a golf course. The tree is beautiful and comes from the Himalayas.
Steve, Ben, Yolanda and Olli.
Ben Papapietro and his wife Yolanda join Steve Jaxon on California Wine Country. Dan Berger is away today, visiting the Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival, which we talked about on this episode two weeks ago. Ben is a co-founder of the Papapietr0-Perry winery. This is Ben and Yolanda’s first time on CWC.
Ben Papapietro started in his basement in San Francisco as a home winemaker. He had a friend, Bruce Perry, who worked with Ben in the delivery of the San Francisco Chronicle. They wanted to make Pinot but there was hardly any fruit at that time. Another friend, Burt Williams, also helped him get some Pinot fruit. But they made a lot of Cabernet Franc blends and Zinfandel. In 1990 he got a really good source of Pinot fruit. Then his partner talked him into opening a professional winery in 1997. Early in his winemaking career, Ben did some harvests with Burt Williams, the co-founder of Williams-Selyem, who was a mentor to Ben. He was one of the local winemakers who started producing Pinot Noir in Sonoma County.
California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.
Goldridge Soil AgainThey are tasting a 2023 Pinot Noir, a vineyard designate from Peter’s Vineyard. It is in the high southern hills with the famous Goldridge soil that makes the region famous.
Melissa Galliani joins us in the studio today. Her t-shirt says “near perfect” and it has a story. Ben’s partner made the t-shirt that reproduces the comments of wine reviewers who liked their wine. Bruce Perry was Ben’s partner and very close friend. He passed away a couple of years ago.
Papapietro-Perry is participating in the Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience this weekend. But he and his wife are taking 80 people on a cruise up the Douro River in Portugal. They have organized several other cruises with as many as 140 people with them. They visit a lot of wineries and taste a lot of wine.
Ben grew up in the Mission district of San Francisco and visited Italy several times to see relatives on both sides of his family.
The Papapietro-Perry Light & Bright ClubPapapietro-Perry has a “Light and Bright” club, which is for Rosé and Chardonnay. On June 14th there is an event called “Wine, Cheese and Chocolate.” Even during Covid they did a once-a-week live show that kept people involved. And in July there is the Papapietro-Perry Lobster and Chardonnay Festival.
Next they taste a Chardonnay which is a lighter style, fruit forward with a nice spicy finish that lingers. Ben also brought a Pinot Noir, made from the 777 clone grown in four different vineyards with different growing conditions.
Bettina from Laurel Glen Vineyard is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Bettina’s father Peter M. F. Sichel recently passed away at 102. He was an old friend of Dan Berger who credits him with great contributions to winemaking, in Germany and in the US. Dan wrote a review of Peter’s book called “The Secrets of My Life: Vintner, Soldier, Prisoner, Spy.” He was instrumental in making Blue Nun wine popular, a dry white wine from Germany.
Dan describes the story of Blue Nun as a story of the Atomic Age. There is a bottle of it on the cover of the Fleetwood Mac album Rumors and there is a Beastie Boys song called Blue Nun. Blue Nun was very popular in the 1970s. The brand ran radio advertisements nationally that were written and recorded by Stiller & Meara. Here is one of them:
https://calwinecountry.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/BLUE-NUN-1970-Stiller-Meara.mp3Laurel Glen is on top of Sonoma Mountain. It is a remarkable property. The fact that people would plant Cabernet up there is “outrageous” says Dan. It makes a special kind of wine. Bettina says it’s a great site for Cabernet. In the 1990s, Cabernet was a much more restrained, a low-alcohol wine with high acidity. That is still the Lauren Glen style.
Sonoma Mountain AVAThe vineyard was first planted to Cabernet in the 1960s. They are located on a plateau. The Sonoma Mountain AVA is on the east side of the mountain. The west side of the mountain is now the Petaluma Gap AVA. The mountain blocks the wind and fog. They don’t achieve the degree of ripeness that Napa Cabernets do, which produces what Dan calls a richer, oaky, more concentrated and higher in alcohol.
California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.
Next for tasting is a Riesling that comes from a vineyard on the central coast near Monterrey. They are the last grapes that come into the winery, after all the other grapes. That shows what a long maturation process these grapes require. Dan can think of only about 5 vineyards in California that produce high quality dry Riesling and this is one of them. They make three Cabernets, a Rosé and some Gruner Veltliner.
Barbara Barrielle
Barbara Barrielle calls in to California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger to talk about the Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival 2025 coming May 16-18. She was a guest on CWC last January on this episode when the Anderson Valley Winegrowers were promoting the International White Wine Festival in February.
The Pinot Noir Festival has been going on for 26 years. Anderson Valley is home to some picturesque small towns and to several vineyards. Its cool climate is ideal for Pinot Noir.
The Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival runs from Friday May 16 through Sunday May 18. Get all the information at the Valley AV WINES website, and get tickets at the Eventbrite page for the 2025 Festival. Use the Promo Code MENDOCINO to get 30% off tickets to the Barbeque and the Grand Tasting.
On Friday May 16, there is a barbeque where the vintners bring special wines from their cellars. It’s a show-off opportunity and everyone brings their best. Plus, the food is fantastic.
Then on Saturday, May 17, the Grand Tasting is at Scharfenberger Cellars. It’s one of the few wine festivals that takes place right in the vineyard. In the morning, VIPs spend a few hours “in the bubble lounge” with oysters, caviar etc. In the afternoon, 45 different wineries and great food. On Sunday, the local wineries open up for visits.
California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.
One Hour Away From Santa RosaTo get there you drive north on highway 128 for about an hour, from Santa Rosa. It’s springtime and everything is in bloom. There will be easily 60 different wines. Dan Berger says the sub-region of Comptche (pronounced “com-CHEE”) is producing very good wine. Three years ago there was nothing coming from there. Today, they are world class. It’s remarkable that they are still unknown even in a town as large and as close as Santa Rosa.
Joy Sterling from Iron Horse Vineyards is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Joy has been on California Wine Country before, on this episode of Sept. 27, 2017. Clark Wolf is sticking around from the previous segment to talk about the Northern California Public Media Awards that are coming back on May 10. This year’s honorees are Joy Sterling and her whole family, who are getting the recognition they deserve for all the delicious wines they make and also for all of their other work outside of winemaking.
Joy describes Iron Horse as a magical place, with stunning views across rolling hills of vines, with Mt. St. Helena in the distance. “The grapes know they are growing in a gorgeous place.” Dan Berger says its magic is a result of its location. The old road has not changed in 100 years. As you cross the bridge, it feels like you are 100 miles from anywhere. While a lot of wineries try to “turn it up so much” as Clark says, Iron Horse is natural. There is wildness thriving around them, including deer, who ate Joy’s roses. The turkey vultures that live all around northern California are thriving. Green Valley Creek bisects the property. The Coho Salmon use the river for spawning. Their farming is so careful that the water is clean.
Iron Horse has been legendary for making some of the finest Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and sparkling wines in the world, not just in Sonoma County. These wines are “really pristine” such as the 2023 Audrey Chardonnay, named after Joy’s mom. Ever since the beginning, they keep the malolactic fermentation to a minimum and they use steam-bent barrels, so there is no smoke on the wood and therefore none in the wine either. Joy describes this wine as gracious and elegant, just like her mom. Dan Berger describes it as having perfect acidity and all the components are subtle, not ostentatious. The aren’t “blow your socks off” wines, more like “glide your socks off,” says Joy.
POP goes the cork!“Who doesn’t like a big pop? It just says “party,” says Joy. This is their 2021 Spring Rosé. It has a beautiful petal pink color and it really tastes like spring.” Dan Berger, who has an extensive personal cellar, says that these wines will improve with age in the bottle. They already have three years on the yeast. It is a limited production wine, only available at their tasting room.
The second wine they pour is the one they are best known for, Iron Horse Wedding Cuvée. Joy explains that their sparkling wines have become drier and drier, due to two factors, the increased quality of their craftsmanship and their vineyard practices. Dan Berger also gives credit to Iron Horse’s customers, who demand their quality. “We have the best customers!” says Joy. Iron Horse wines have been served at the White House for the last six consecutive administrations, as well as State Department events and to foreign dignitaries and royalty including the Queen of England.
The Intimate History of Iron HorseJoy’s mother is a San Franciscan and her father was from Los Angeles and they lived in LA when Joy was a child. Then the family moved to France in 1967 and that is where they encountered wine. They would go on trips together to discover wine and their parents felt right at home. When they missed on a vineyard acquisition there, it may have been a blessing because by the mid-1970s they found a property in California. They have 3 generations living on the property in an 1876 house. Next year they will celebrate several big anniversaries. The USA turns 250, Iron Horse turns 50, winemaker David Munksgard celebrates 30 years making wine there.
They had a second label for a while called Tin Pony which they don’t make anymore. It was for wine made from grapes that did not make it into the Iron Horse blend. Joy said they preferred to focus on their top quality product. Dan thinks that with the market the way it is, Tin Pony could make a comeback, but Joy says she is busy enough.
Another cuvée they make is called Ocean Reserve. It is dedicated to ocean conservation. The proximity to the ocean is what gives their vineyard its character. They are 13 miles from the ocean and it is “the engine of our microclimate.”
Nolan Jones, winemaker at Lava Cap Winery, is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Lava Cap Winery is located in the Sierra Foothills, in Placerville. It is two hours due east of Napa and Sonoma. Dan Berger says that Sierra Foothills makes great wines but there are differences between the different regions. The Sierra Nevada Foothills is one of the biggest AVAs in the state. Their vineyards are at some of the highest elevations in California, at roughly 3000 feet. That is close to the snow line. They get snow and frost in the Spring.
Nolan grew up in Placerville. His grandfather started the winery and brought his father into it. Now a retired as a Geology professor at Berkeley, he looked for a place where the climate and soil were what he wanted. They bought the property in 1979, planted in 1980 and their first vintage was the next year.
VermentinoThey begin by tasting a Vermentino which Dan Berger says is excellent. Vermentino mostly grows in Liguria and Tuscany, in north-western Italy. It is popular there and it is just starting to get recognition in California where more and more producers are making it. This Vermentino has a faint tropical note with a hint of pineapple. This is their second Vermentino vintage. It has fun, bright summer characteristics. It has been very popular since they started making it. Nolan thinks the intensity of being at high elevation produces the acidity and other flavors they want. It was fermented in stainless steel, aged on light lees for three months and then bottled.
Dan attributes this wine to the fact that we now have the technology to make wine this way. It uses cold fermentation and good quality filters. This used to be unavailable to most producers. Thanks to new reasonably priced equipment, notably from Italy, local producers can make these world class wines that require special treatment. Nolan says this highlights the California character, which is aromatic, bright and intense. Their freshness comes from the Alpine region, while most other California wines come from coastal regions.
To make a parallel, it’s like a Sauvignon Blanc but with none of the green grass flavors. Vermentino has its own spice profile that is different than Sauv Blanc. His grandfather, being a geologist, named the winery after the soil, which the old miners named Lava Cap.
Lava Cap dot com is their website, where you can buy their wines. They do 26 different SKUs, including Italian, Spanish and French grapes. El Dorado has not settled on a “signature grape” the way that other regions have. Their goal is to showcase their elevation and the volcanic soil. Dan explains that the higher you go in elevation, the cooler it gets, and that gives you the effect and benefits of cooler weather, at a time where other vineyards are experiencing warmer weather.
They go on to taste a Chardonnay which is unique due to all the unique growing and winemaking conditions at Lava Cap Winery.
Dan Barwick joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country this week to talk about his impending return to England. He has been on CWC several times in recent years, the last time was this episode last August. He is one of the founders and the winemaker for Trecini Winery. They made their first Sauvignon Blanc in 1999.
Dan has brought a New Zealand wine, a 2022 Babich Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. It cost $4.99 at Bottle Barn. It’s not a great wine but for $4.99 it’s fine.
There’s no such thing as a terrible wine, as long as it’s reasonably priced enough. – Dan Berger.
Dan was born in Dover, England and worked at Harrod’s London in the food hall where he saw a lot of wine. He moved to Sonoma in 1991 and has been making wine for thirty years. But he is moving back to England.
They have a Chardonnay to taste, which is Russian River, 2022, barrel fermented in 500 liter neutral oak. It’s one of his favorite Chardonnays that he has ever made. Clean crisp and immensely complex. Dan Berger says it will still improve with age, or even time in decanter.
England is on the horizon, in particular the county of Kent where The Wine Garden of England is getting warmer and warmer. It is champagne country, says Dan Berger. The English have started making some great sparkling wines and they have one today. It is a non-vintage brut from Chapel Down.
Dan Barwick tells the story that the timing was right to move back to England, for a combination of reasons. Dan Berger says that it is an exciting moment for English wine and that it is a well-timed move. They are tasting the wine from Chapel Down. It is made to emulate the style of Champagne and is “gorgeous.”
16:00 What Dan Barwick Will Bring Back to EnglandIn England, Dan Barwick will do some consulting and will be able to bring all of his experience from California. He has already begun networking. He found an old friend he hadn’t seen for forty years who says he has vineyards and asked if Dan could help him. Prospects are good.
23:00 Dan Berger: US Wine Consumer wine knowledge essentially zero.You have to hear Dan Berger speak truth to the people about how the average American wine consumer has zero knowledge of wine and what goes with what. It starts with his deadpan hilarious observation of Chardonnay on every table in a famous Chinese restaurant, where he was having the Gewurtztraminer.
Dan Berger, Alan Baker.
Cartograph Wines co-founder Alan Baker is back with us on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. His last time on the show was this episode in April of 2024, almost one year ago.
Cartograph is a label known for small-lot elegant Pinot Noir, Rieslings and sparkling wines as well, from Russian River Valley and Mendocino Ridge. Dan Berger says that if you are a wine lover, you know that the best part of that is finding these small local producers that make excellent wine. These wines are under the radar, so Alan declares they need a better radar.
Alan and his wife moved up from San Francisco in 2009 to launch the brand. Cartograph Wines has just purchased a new property in Dry Creek Valley which will become their new home and tasting room. It should be ready in about one year. There is Syrah on the property and they plan to install some art there too. For now they are in Healdsburg.
From Radio to WineAlan worked in radio in St. Paul, MN for sixteen years before he “caught the wine bug.” Before that he studied music and shifted into making recordings of music, which led him to NPR in the twin cities. When he tasted a certain bottle of wine, which was a 1998 Alscatian Riesling.
“That silly $13 bottle of wine changed my entire life.” – Alan Baker
Steve Jaxon has named Dan Berger “Mr. Riesling” and the nickname is well earned. Alan and Dan first interacted because they share a taste for dry Riesling. If you handle it right, it can be “bone dry” and still have a lot of fruit flavors. Cartograph has planted Riesling recently so next year they will have some to taste from their estate.
Alan did bring a Rosé, a 2024, 100% Pinot Noir, light salmon color and completely dry. 90% was pressed directly from the grapes, and they also collect the juice that comes from the sorting table. Dan believes that the screw cap is one of the secrets to California Rosé. The screw cap makes a prefect seal with no oxygen transfer at all. This way, the wine stays in perfect condition for a lot longer.
They are also tasting a 2023 Pinot Noir that Dan calls “dramatic.” There is a hint of pomegranate. The majority of the fruit in this bottle comes from their estate vineyard in Russian River Valley near Cotati. Dan says it is so close to Petaluma Gap that it could be considered a Petaluma Gap style wine. It has low alcohol, 13.7%. There is some oak, Dan calls it a “grace note” of aromatics. Dan suggests decanting it for an hour or so between opening it and tasting it.
Dan Berger.
California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today includes Dan’s thoughts about tariffs and wine sales. This continues some of the subject matter he discussed on this episode of CWC three weeks ago.
Dan Berger begins by describing an online newsletter and Substack called Fermentations, written by Tom Wark. Dan says it has the most interesting perspective on the business. For the rest of today Dan and Steve will talk about some tastings and also about tariffs and the changing retail and wholesale wine market. Dan sees that the impositions of tariffs is going to be devastating throughout the wine industry. It will negatively impact foreign wine, but it will also adversely affect the entire market. 37% of retail sales are imported. If a bottle of champagne has gone from $50 to $125, buyers won’t buy. Wine prices are going to stay the same for California wine, and prices of European wine will go up.
The United States Wine Trade Alliance, representing 5,000 businesses, is attempting to lobby against the tariffs, but with dim prospects. Dan suggests looking for wines that are already here and buying what you want, now.
Layoffs, Disinvestment & Ownership ConcentrationThere have been layoffs in the wholesale wine business. In the last year, wineries have been going out of business. Vintage Wine Merchants has closed and Constellation has announced their intention to sell their wine properties. Mr. Foley has been buying wineries in these distressed conditions and now owns something like thirty brands. Dan says that if the tariffs stay in place for over a year, look out for big trouble. Also, Canada has stopped buying American wine and spirits too. Canada has been an important source of revenue for some California wineries.
Chardonnay, Albariño and Gamay2023 Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay from New Zealand that comes from a winemaker named Michael Brackovich that Dan knows. The winery is not far from Auckland, on a lovely bay. The wine is delicious. No tariffs have been threatened on New Zealand and Australia, at least yet. It is a great example of southern hemisphere Chardonnay.
They also taste a Hendry 2023 Albariño, from the Napa Valley. It is a variety that grows in Portugal and Spain, and also some in California. Dan says it has the structure of Gewürztraminer but the aromatics of a Riesling only with additional orange peel flavors.
Dan has selected wines today from California, Australia and New Zealand whose prices will not change.
Finally they taste a Gamay, which is similar to Pinot Noir. This comes from a property called Mount Edward in New Zealand. It could have been made into a fruity Beaujolais style wine but this one has a little more substance. It has black pepper flavors that come from the colder climate. New Zealand makes a lot of Gamay, which usually becomes the young fruity Beaujolais style. This wine is made more like a Syrah, focussed on acidity, instead of that. Dan would pair it with a well-done hamburger with some char on it.
Dan Berger and Rick Davis.
Rick Davis, winemaker and owner Cal Star Cellars, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. This is Rick’s first time on CWC although we have taked about his wines before.
Dan Berger says that Rick is not personally well-known because he does not promote himself. He is too busy in the winery. Rick tells his story of starting in the industry on the east coast in 1988 before coming to California in 1992. He became cellarmaster and assistant winemaker at Flower, then in 1997 he worked three vintages on the central coast. He started his own brand in 2001 with 160 cases of Zinfandel.
Flowers began as a project under the auspices of Greg La Follette and it became one of the most important brands in Sonoma County history. Dan says that the Cal Star wines are some of the best wines that nobody has ever heard about.
The Cal Star LineupCal Star makes a Sauvignon Blanc, a Chardonnay, a red and a rosé from Pinot Meunier, six different Pinot Noirs (three vineyard designates and three and three AVA blends) and two Zinfandels. He only does 1200 cases per year total volume, and he works with 11 different SKUs. Dan says its virtue is that this is how to keep track of all the different vineyards.
The Sauvignon Blanc has a lot of varietal character, in Dan’s opinion. He also gets varietal character from his Lodi Zinfandels. Rick is not interested in what he calls “cocktail wine” or what Dan calls a “sipping wine.” Rick got interested in wine because he likes to cook and wanted to make wine that would match the food he cooks. That sounds like the way to end up making wines that Dan Berger will like.
Then they taste a 2023 Rosé of Pinot Meunier which Dan says is has strong cherry flavors. His account in Georgia called it a “porch pounder that will go with food.” This rosé is made direct to press, not by the bleeding-off process. Dan agrees that this method makes better Rosés.
The red Pinot Meunier is next. It is rarely made as a red wine because it is already light in color. It’s just darker than a Rosé, but it is a red. Rick describes it as Cru Beujolais without the funk factor.
Evan Damiano, Marchelle Wines winemaker, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. His last time on CWC was this episode on May 31, 2024.
Evan started in January 2021 volunteering with Greg La Follette and has risen all the way to the rank of winemaker now. Greg is one of the most famous winemakers around. He has worked in all the most famous wineries in Sonoma County and he even worked with André Tchelistscheff when he was a teen.
They have some of Dan’s 2024 Riesling in their glasses, which Greg made. It’s a barrel sample of the wine that Dan will be putting in bottles this week.
In 2022 Greg asked Evan to go into the cellar and make selections for blends. He said, “Go in there and listen to what the wines want to be. Go be with the barrels. Smell, taste and put these wines together for me.” A small amount of another wine blended in can make a huge difference in a final result. Greg La Follette is known as “The Vine Whisperer” but he also has a degree in Botany.
Dan gets his Riesling fruit from a vineyard in Mendocino County. There are a few people making Riesling around there, but nobody is making it as dry as this. This is Dan Berger’s personal quest to produce the wine he wants to taste. It’s got some tropical fruit, but also citrus lemon peel and a bit of herbal flavors. They also have some other wines from Marchelle.
2021 Manchester Ridge ChardonnayThis is the Chardonnay that Greg brought to Evan while he was in Wisconsin taking a break. Greg tries to induce shatter into the vines, which tricks the vines into making smaller berries. The Manchester Ridge vineyard is 2200 feet above sea level, on a flat mountain top.
Evan made his first harvest in Oregon in 2010 and if 16 hours per day for 21 days straight didn’t put him off the joy of winemaking, he was hooked. He did another harvest at Balletto Vineyard, with Anthony Beckman. He took a break from it but came back to it.
Dan appreciates that these wines are always authentic to the grape variety.
Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.
Steve Jaxon talks about wine news with Dan Berger on California Wine Country today, since our expected guest was a last-minute scratch.
Dan has brought a Tendu from Matthaisson in Napa Valley, made from Cortese grapes. It is a common wine in Piedmont, the province of north-western Italy, whose capital is Torino.
American wine consumption is down in every category , except Sauvignon Blanc was the only one up in sales. One reason is the influx of good Sauvignon Blanc wines from New Zealand. This caused the category to expand. There is the Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé French styles, the California style and now the New Zealand style. From region to region the styles are all different. In the US, Sauvignon Blanc was up almost 4%, while everything else was down between 4 and 8 % in sales. Tasting rooms and wineries are closing. Discount pricing is rampant.
Young people are drinking all kinds of other things, even hard seltzer or non-alcoholic products.
Market Cycles in the Wine IndustryWine has been with us for thousands of years, so the industry has to wait for the cycle to turn, maybe a year or two. Sometimes wine news is old news. There was a downturn in 2009 and within 18 months the business was back.
Dan says that the 2024 vintage is excellent. The 2024 white wines and Rosés are starting to show up in the stores now.
Pedroncelli winery in Dry Creek Valley is a thriving winery. Montse Reese their winemaker has been on the show. Also Julie Pedroncelli was on this episode last January. They have owned their land for almost 100 years.
Dan opens a Kerner which is Riesling crossed with Trollinger, a red grape. It is a white wine from the Alto-Adige region of north-eastern Italy.
Wineries used to operate tasting rooms at a profit, but that has changed. A lot of wineries have closed that were all producing the same wines, Chardonnay and Cabernet. Julie Pedroncelli explained how a winery has to set itself apart somehow, which they have done.
Michigan is producing great wine. Look for Chateau Grand Traverse, the old reliable.
Tom Gendall, winemaker at Cline Family Cellars is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Cline Family Cellars has been featured on this show before, most recently when Fred Cline and his daughter Hillary Cline were on this episode on January 4, 2023.
Tom Gendall from Cline Family Cellars is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. The Cline family has been on this show before, most recently when Fred Cline and his daughter Hillary Cline were on this episode on January 4, 2023.
Tom was born and raised in Christchurch, New Zealand and has wine experience in both hemispheres. He also made wine in Germany. Some of the Cline family vineyards were planted as early as 1904. They survived Prohibition and Phylloxera. They started making wine under this label in 1984.
Hold on to your hat!The first wine they will taste is the 2023 Chardonnay from Carneros, where you had better strap your hat on because the wind will carry it off. Tom describes the process that produced it, but he gives credit to the great fruit from that year. From year to year, they finished picking month later than before. In 2024 they finished picking on the 16th of October and in 2023 they finished on the 12th of November. It was a cooler year so the grapes could stay on the vine almost a month longer than the year before. Dan remembers the vintage of 2010 and 2011, which were both cool vintages. 2023 was like that but even better. It is great now but in 10 years will be even better.
Tom Gendall is one of the two winemakers at Cline Family Cellars. The other is Katie Hoggins. She is also from New Zealand and has also worked around the world making wine. He compares their collaboration to building, as if he were the architect and she is the engineer.
Dan describes the Cline Family Cellars history as having been through everything imaginable in more than a century of growing grapes.
They survived Phylloxera because their vines grow in sand which does not bear phylloxera. The secret to their balance is the lees contact that they give to the wine, which imparts flavor. Tom describes how the root systems feed flavor into the vines and the grapes.
Later in the show Melissa Galliani joins the group and Tom opens a Mourvèdre which is ra
Dan and Dennis
Dennis Hill, co-founder of Langhart & Hill Wines joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. The last time he was on California Wine Country was this episode in September of 2023.
The first tasting is a 2023 Chardonnay. While a lot of California Chards are the heavy oaky buttery ML style, this is different. It is more in the European style, higher acidity and better for pairing with food. They use high quality grapes from Sonoma County so there are a lot of fruit flavors in it.
Dennis Hill and his wife were both raised in Healdsburg. There was a Renaissance in the wine industry in the 1970s when he was starting in the business – right place, right time. Healdsburg is located at the confluence of the Dry Creek River and the Russian River. That puts it at the intersection of three main viticultural areas, Dry Creek, Anderson Valley and Russian River Valley. In the northern part of this region the afternoons are hotter and in the southern part, it is cooler and foggier.
Where to find Langhart & Hill winesLanghart & Hill wines are available in restaurants and some retail locations. They do not have a tasting room. Their production is still rather small for that.
After working for some very large wineries with complicated operations and relationships, Dennis enjoys being able to work by himself. Their vineyards are located in the different climate zones described, so there is a four-week window for them to harvest everything.
Dennis describes their two brands. Landhart & Hill are classic Sonoma County varieties, a Chard, two Pinot Noirs, a Rosé and a Merlot. They also have another label, Rumplestiltskin, which is for the less common varieties. For instance, today there is a Dobricic, a Croation variety, and an Orange wine, made of Trouseau Gris grapes originally from the Jura region in France. Trousseau is a Gris variety, not purely a white grape. Wine grapes come in three colors, black, aka red, white and gris, meaning gray. There is also Trousseau Noir. It’s a tricky grape to use. You have to harvest not too soon or too late. Then, if you want Orange wine, you have to leave it on the skins just long enough.
Dan Berger and Garry Brooks.
Garry Brooks, owner of Brooks Note Wines, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. This is his first time on CWC.
Garry grew up in Annapolis, Maryland. As he grew up the family had wine on the table. He served in the US Navy and got sent to France and Spain where he had a chance to learn about wine all over the world. After the Navy he ended up in northern California and planted some vines in his sister-in-law’s garden. He was working in middle management in the tech world and his wife convinced him to take the great leap and make a career change. He attended UC Davis then worked at Ravenswood, Acacia, Kosta Brown and Dutton Goldfield. Then he and his wife started Brooks Note in 2012.
The first tasting is a Chardonnay. Garry likes Chardonnay to be “a little bit restrained.” It is made with grapes from three different vineyards. Dan finds that it has rich mid-palette and good acidity and subtle character. Dan would decant it for about two hours.
Petaluma GapDan explains how Petaluma Gap wines get their special character. The wind makes the big difference. The acidity is going to be higher because of that. There is consistent wind every day in Petaluma Gap. The vines slow their sugar production down and it lets the grapes develop more flavor. The skins become thicker and the plants get a longer growing season. Garry has a lot of ways of describing it (about 9 minutes in). They can pick grapes as much as a month later than in other regions.
They are also tasting a 2023 Pinot Noir. Of course it is very young. It comes from four different vineyards in Petaluma Gap. Taylor’s Crown, with high elevation and volcanic soil, then Panther Ridge vineyard, rocky basalt and pumice, some from Paradise Vineyard which gets blasted by the wind and the last from Zyer Ranch.
Steven Kent
Steven Kent, owner of The Steven Kent Winery in Livermore Valley, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country.
Dan Berger recently visited Livermore with his friend, winemaker Clark Smith, to investigate Cabernet Franc. Steven given Cabernet Franc a privileged position in his portfolio. For centuries, Cabernet Franc has been used as a blending grape, but Steven says it can do a whole lot more. He has brought four Cabernet Francs for tasting today,
Steven Kent’s son is the seventh generation of Kent family winemakers. In 1854 they started making wine in San José. The Livermore Valley was a wine producing region forty years before Sonoma County. Steven says that Cabernet Franc and the Livermore Valley both deserve more recognition. Dan attended a Cabernet Franc festival there recently and there were a lot of people there who are very enthusiastic about Cab Franc.
Cab Franc: not just a blending grape.Cabernet Franc gets harvested about 2 weeks earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon. It has less tannin and more aromatics with some dried herb character. In some ways it is a finer variety. Dan calls Cab Franc the father and Cab Sauvignon, “the wild and wooly teenage son.”
For people who are looking for a slightly different approach to red wine, Cab Franc is a good choice. It is graceful and doesn’t have the same power as Cab Sauvignon.
They have a 2022 Cab Franc from the Ghielmetti vineyard. Livermore is hot by day but gets cold at night. The nearby Altamont pass is a windy place, which extends the growing season. They would normally harvest this in early November. It gets no new oak.
Dan Berger says, “This is red wine of a very serious nature but without any of the heavy tannins or the over-ripe components that sometimes creep into bigger, richer, oilier wines that are aged in barrels.” He also calls it “the Pinot Noir of Cabernet.” Dan would give it two to three more years, but it doesn’t need much smoothing because it’s already more than half way there.
Located in LivermoreThey are located on Vasco Road in Livermore. Their tasting room is in a light industrial area, with seven other wineries nearby, known call the place “Vasco Row.” They buy 95% of their fruit from their local friends, and the remaining portion from the Santa Cruz area.
They have a club lounge at the winery for their members. Dan calls it “uncontaminated by tourists.” The Kents are the oldest continuous winemaking family in the country. Lineage is another label that they produce. When he and his father Steven Kent Senior opened Steven Kent Winery, they wanted to produce high quality Bordeaux style wines. After working with a lot of Rhone varietals, he wanted to return to Bordeaux styles. In 2007 he started Lineage as a Bordeaux blend and so they could produce elegant age-worthy wines that would go well with food. The one they are tasting is the 2017. Dan says it is well-balanced. It’s called Lineage because it represents the family history in winemaking.
Barbara Barrielle
Barbara Barrielle, publicist, writer, actress and producer, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. She writes about travel, wine, food and entertainment and she also works for Anderson Valley Winegrowers, promoting the International White Wine Festival. Her documentary film about Anderson Valley wines features Dan Berger.
The Anderson Valley Winegrowers Association is putting on the International White Wine Festival. The festival used to be called the Alsatian Wine Festival because it focused on Alsatian aromatic whites that grow in Anderson Valley. The valley is also known for Pinot Noir now. The new name of the festival opens the door to other whites that are also growing in Anderson Valley. Dan Berger will be in charge of the Rieslings. There will also be Pinot Gris, Gewürtztraminer and lots of others.
As an example, Dan has brought a dry Riesling from Ra Ra Wines. Ra Ra wines is run by winemaker Kara Groom who was on this episode of CWC last year on Feb. 16. 2024.
Cole Ranch grows the best Riesling in CaliforniaThe fruit comes from Cole Ranch, which grows the best Riesling in Mendocino County. They have a total of 81 acres and only four and a half of Riesling. Riesling and Cabernet Franc are selling well, but all the other California varieties are down. This is in the context of a huge downturn in overall wine sales.
Anderson Valley also produces fine sparkling wines. The best known brands are Sharffenberger and Roderer. In about 1980 the Roderer company in Champagne, France, decided to look for property in the US. Their agent hired the Foppiano family to take him around to different properties. They found a ridge where the influence of marine air flow was arriving. They decided to plant a couple of acres of vines as a test, which went well. To this day, Roderer is making the best sparkling wines in the US. They compare well to Iron Horse, the best American maker. Lichen Estate also makes excellent product. There are small producers like Pennyroyal Farms and Navarro that also have sparkling wine production.
Henry Belmonte and Madisyn Goerlitz
Henry Belmonte and Madisyn Goerlitz are here from VJB Cellars and Wellington Cellars, on a special podcast-only edition of California Wine Country, recorded last week on Jan. 20 on The Drive with Steve Jaxon, on Wine Country Radio.
Henry Belmonte and Steve Jaxon go way back together. Steve used to say he lived at Portofino on 4th Street. VJB Cellars in Kenwood is a place with a family story behind it. They made a migration from the restaurant industry to the wine industry, as a family business. After his brother’s passing, he named his winery after him by the initials VJB. They make wine but they are also still focused on hospitality and providing a great experience, environment and atmosphere. They apply the same philosophy to making wine.
Henry’s mother ran the kitchen at Portofino and also still directs the elaborate traditional Italian offerings at VJB Cellars.
VJB Cellars makes 95% Italian varietals. Wellington Cellars, their other winery down the road, focusses on French varietals. VJB has about 20 different Italian varietals, all of the ones that are popular in Italy. Some of them are very small runs, 200-300 cases. You have to be in the wine club to access these wines.
From Food to WineBelmonte’s Deli was their first venture into restaurants, in the late ‘70s and ‘80s. It was a springboard to open Portofino’s in Santa Rosa on Columbus Day in 1987.
VJB Cellars is like walking into a small town in Italy, with an expansive piazza with tables and chairs. There are storefronts, for the deli, tasting room, a Tommy Bahama boutique store and a chocolate and gelato shop. May 26, 2003 they opened their doors as a stand-alone tasting room. He knew he had to bring something they were really good at, into the shop to make it more attractive. It took about 7 or 8 years to build out the full operation, with all the feeling for hospitality, experience and entertainment along with the finest flavors.
Wellington Cellars came about when they outgrew their production facilities for VJB. He and his father found the Wellington property down the road which came up for sale. They were really just looking for production, but it turned out to be a bonus that the whole operation was already there.
Maria Gabriella Belmonte is Henry’s mother was the guiding force at Portofino and has the same role now at La Cucina and the Red Rooster Kitchen in Petaluma. She has passed her knowledge and insight over to Henry.
About That Italian Sausage PizzaYou can see all of that knowledge at work in the pizza that Henry has brought for Steve to taste, and in the pride that Henry takes in making it. It is an Italian Sausage pizza from Red Rooster Kitchen. They make their own dough from scratch. They also make their own pork sausage and their own sauce from fresh tomatoes. Everything is as fresh as it can be. The accolades for this pizza have come from far and wide.
Madisyn GoerlitzMadisyn Goerlitz also tells about her role as Social Media manager for VJB Cellars and Wellington Cellars. She was a student at Sonoma State University and had to finish her last terms online during Covid. So her goal, which she has achieved, was to make it back to Sonoma County after all that. She is developing her role in hospitality and marketing and is “…happy to be part of the story.”
Courtney DeGraff, Executive Director of Anderson Valley Winegrowers, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. They are putting on the International White Wine Festival, for the fifteenth year, on February 15 and 16 at the Mendocino County Fairgrounds.
It used to be called the Alsatian White Wine Festival. The name change opens the festival to feature a wider variety of wines, such as Grüner Veltliner and Chardonnay. Dan Berger will be in charge of the Rieslings. The in-person Grand Tasting is at the Fairgrounds in Booneville, on Saturday. Early access from 11 to 12 and general access from 12 to 3. Go to this page at the AV Wines website for more info about the International White Wine Festival and for links to purchase tickets. Use the discount code RADIO for 20% off.
Anderson Valley is growing in Chardonnay production. Most of the fruit used to go to sparkling wines but they are also producing some very nice still Chardonnays now.
Scharffenberger Sparkling WineBarry Herbst has brought a Scharffenberger sparkling wine, which he considers to be a great value. They make six or seven different kinds of sparkling wine. It is also a beautiful property to visit, in Philo.
Dan calls it more persistent in its flavor profile, with more structure. It’s $21.99 at Bottle Barn. The winemaker Jeffery Jindra came over from Husch Vineyards.
Dan Berger reports that there are several Napa valley growers who are also buying property in Anderson Valley. It is a more relaxed setting. It’s definitely worth a visit. There are also other attractions like beer and cheese making.
Bottle Barn is in the process of putting out the San Francisco Chronicle Competition winners. They will have about a hundred different awarded wines. After that, the Press Democrat limited competition (north of the Golden Gate) takes place. Barry’s other wines today are the Maggy Hawk Chardonnay, a Gewurtztraminer from Husch and a Goldeneye Brut Rosé. They are all pictured in the top illustration and are also all available at Bottle Barn.
Cobb Wines tasted today.
Ross Cobb from Cobb Wines and Ziggy the Wine Gal from The Krush join Steve Jaxon on California Wine Country. Dan Berger is away this week. Ross Cobb first met Ziggy when he was at Williams Selyem in 1998 or 99, while he was working with Bob Cabral there. Cobb Wines is a winery inspired by creative freedom. A quote from Patti Smith provides context. Robb was always motivated by music and he lets “…Patti Smith explain the rest.” Ross has also been working with Les Claypool’s Pachyderm Wines
They start by tasting the Cobb Wines Riesling, from a 14-15 acre vineyard at a high elevation. It is officially the smallest appellation in America. The soil is limestone, at 1200 feet. It is the last of the Sonoma Coast vineyards that he picks every year. The fermentation is long and slow. He just tasted his 2024 vintage, which began last Fall, so even that step comes late with this wine. It is balanced between fruit and alcohol. How about some sushi? Fresh oysters? Fresh Dungeness crab? Ziggy says it is a dry Riesling that should go with “dry January” whatever that is.
Ross Cobb’s 25th VintageRoss grew up in Valley Ford and his dad worked at Bodega Marine Lab. They were friends with other families that made wine in the area. The family moved away and later he went to UC Santa Cruz to study Soil Science and Environmental Engineering. They have lived at Coastlands Vineyard since 1989. He worked for a lot of different wineries in northern California. In 2001 He started Cobb Wines and this year will be his 25th vintage.
He only started making the dry Riesling in 2016. He also makes Chardonnay in the traditional way, not the big buttery style that Ziggy calls “Chateau Two by Four” with too much oak.
Cobb Wines dot com is the website with all of the wines they have today, available for sale. They are also at Bottle Barn and many local restaurants. They aren’t a tasting room but they can receive guests.
Dan and Mark.
Mark McWilliams from Arista Winery is our guest on this edition of California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.
Dan’s weekly cellar dweller bottle is a 2022 Chenin Blanc from Les Atlètes du Vin in France. $15 a bottle at Bottle Barn. Chenin Blanc is coming back. You can get 7-9 tons an acre of Chenin Blanc and it makes nice wine. Mike says it’s refreshing.
Mark’s parents started as grape growers when he was young. They grew a lot of Cabernet. His mom lived in Burgundy after college and got to know Pinot Noir. They family felt a calling to make wine. In 2002 they started the Arista brand to make wine. They use their own grapes and grapes grown elsewhere. Their Chardonnays have been very highly rated. In December they did a 10-year retrospective tasting of their Chardonnay. In 2013 their new winemaker Matt McCourtney was on the job. Now those wines are aging very well and still have years to go.
Arista’s style has been to focus on the fruit, not on manipulating the wine to make something that the grapes don’t want to do. Acidity is always front and center in their wines. They also have the 2021 Russian River Valley Chardonnay. The appellation wines are the top of their production. Wines like this which are not single-vineyard estate wines, are put together on purpose to combine elements ideally. This wine has so much complexity that it promises to age well.
Arista is the shining star of California ChardonnaysSteve Jaxon quotes Wine Spectator, which declared, “Arista Wines are the shining star of California Chardonnays.” Mark says that’s because they use the best fruit and they have the best staff. There is a hazelnut component in the flavors that Dan detects. It resembles Meursault which is a district in Burgundy. The wines have trace flavors of hazelnut. There is also a lemon peel component in the nose. But the wine is only 3 years old. “A great Chardonnay like this really deserves time in bottle,” says Dan “Lay It Down” Berger. Mark declares that there is world-class Chardonnay coming from California and Oregon and that Burgundy no longer is the only place that makes the best wine from that varietal.
Julie Pedroncelli St. John is back as a guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. Her last time on this show was this episode of April 26, 2023. The Pedroncelli family winery began when her grandparents bought some property in Dry Creek Valley that contained a vineyard, a home and a shuttered winery. This was seven years before the repeal of Prohibition. They sold grapes and then after Prohibition was repealed in December, 1933 they started producing wine. They have been family-owned and operated ever since then.
The Dry Creek Valley has ideal conditions for certain grapes including Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel. The Pedroncelli property is on the hillside. Different ends of the property have different microclimates and today they farm about 11 different varieties on all of their vineyards. By owning the property the wine production is not subject to the financial pressure of a mortgage.
Winemaker Montse ReeseTheir winemaker in Montse Reese who just celebrated 18 years there. Everything they grow comes into the winery. They also buy from growers all around Dry Creek Valley. The Zinfandel they are tasting today is an example of their product that comes from their own vineyards and from other local growers.
There is a tab on the Pedroncelli website called Vino in my Dino, which comes from the Flintstone’s Dino the Dinosaur cup. When Julie was 5 years old her first taste of wine, watered down, of course, came from one of those.
Julie has brought a 2023 Chardonnay that comes from F. Johnson vineyard in southern Dry Creek Valley. The winemaker Montse Reese put it in French oak barrels for 8 months, and it undergoes malolactic fermentation sur lies. This makes a wine with complex citrus and melon flavors. It is a candidate for at least a year of aging but is already tasty. It has a wild tropical fruit component which suggests that the wine will improve with aging or when decanted. “Time in bottle or time in the air,” giving aeration helps a lot, says Dan.
Brandi, Dan, Steve and Mike.
Mike Carpenter, The Redd Collection owner is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. His last time on the show was this episode on November 3, 2023.
Dan Berger has brought a magnum of a wine that he himself made 33 years ago. It is a 1991 Cabernet from the Napa Valley. Its aging was in an old French oak barrel. It was a project for his family, when his sons were young, the youngest was 4 that year. They opened it last night and it was still really good.
Mike Carpenter from the Redd Collection is back on California Wine Country. The Redd Collection is a wine retail business that is built on a stock of old, rare and collectable wines. There are some rare wines, such as an old vine Chablis, from 2020. Dan Berger says this is French style Chardonnay “to beat the band.” This drinks like a $100 bottle but sells for $45, says Mike.
The Redd Collection began with a large inventory acquired from a single collector. His name was close to Redd, and the client did not want his own name on it, so the name Redd is a derivation from that.
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Mike used to work in a wine store in LA, where there was a stock that is boring and overwhelming. “150 feet of the same varietal.” He wanted wines that were unique, old and rare. Dan points out that these wines are already aged, so the wines have the mature character that you cannot get from underaged wines. Also, it is expensive to store wine properly. Dan also mentions that these wines have been carefully vetted, for origin and quality but also for how they have been kept. The first thing that goes in the fruit, when a wine has not been aged properly.
The Zelma Long collectionHe is currently offering private collection of a famous Napa Valley winemaker named Zelma Long. There is a wide selection of wines that go back to the ‘50s and ’60s. The oldest is a half bottle of 1929 wine. Zelma Long was a great collector of wine. She was a winemaker at Robert Mondavi. He wrote in his book that losing Zelma Long from his staff was his biggest regret. She became the winemaker at Simi for a long time. She became the president at Simi which made her the first woman top executive at a major winery.
Melissa and Dan
Dan Berger selections are the focus today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, with Melissa Galliani special guest. Melissa was also on the show on this episode just about a couple of months ago, on Nov. 1, 2024.
Joy Sterling from Iron Horse Vineyards was due to be our guest today but at the last minute she was not available. Instead, we have a table of Dan Berger’s selections, including one from Iron Horse, for tasting and discussion. Melissa Galliani (Wine Country Radio General Manager) is also in the studio today.
Dan’s cellar wine is a 2017 St. Andrews Chardonnay which brings up the subject of the currently depressed wine market. Dan offers some reasons for it, including the plethora of other beverages that are available for drinkers. One of them is RTD which means ready-to-drink cocktails in a can.
Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.
This Chardonnay is from Wakefield, in Clare Valley, Australia. It has a little bit of toasted hazelnut flavors, along with fruit flavors that are still strong, apple and pineapple. Wakefield also makes a Shiraz and a dry Riesling that Dan likes.
Australia consumes a lot of wine, although they are working under some restrictions on total alcohol. The Australian consumer cares about flavor profiles, which are stronger when alcohol is lower. The driving laws in Australia are also quite strict. If you can keep the alcohol below 14% you can pay 50 cents per gallon less in taxes.
The next tasting is a much y0unger wine, a 2023 Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. “Whoa! This is a whole different ball game!” says Steve. This comes from Marlborough. It has an “unbelievable” nose. It’s a little sweet but has plenty of acid. It comes from a property that Gallo purchased in New Zealand about 20 years ago.
We have seen lots of wine coming from New Zealand in the last few years, including lots of Sauvignon Blancs. Dan’s opinion is that their cold climate Pinot Noirs are the most interesting wines coming from there and they are also some of the most popular wines in the country.
Dry Creek Vineyard winemaker Tim Bell is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. Tim has been on CWC a few times but the last one was this episode on August 4, 2021.
Dan Berger gives credit to Tim Bell for making wines that are interesting for their subtlety. He tells how his first exposure to wine was in retail. He went to UC Davis, worked at a custom crush facility for a while, then at Freemark Abbey for 10 years making Rutherford Cabernet. From there he worked at Kunde estate, where they had more then 600 acres of vineyards. After five years there, he got the opportunity to move to Dry Creek Vineyard. It is one of the rare family-owned wineries that is still in the hands of the original family owners. The other winemaker is Brian Pruett.
Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek ValleyDan Berger talks about when David Stare planted Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek Valley, he had an intuition that it would work, but nobody knew yet. Tim describes a lot of the varietals that they have planted.
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They have a 2022 Chardonnay from Marchelle, Greg La Follette’s brand. After all these whites, they also have some Zinfandel. Dry Creek Vineyards claims credit for being the first winery to use the term “Old Vines” on the label. There are several old vineyards in the area that are also family-owned, which produce fruit that they use. These vineyards are field blends of Zinfandel with a scattering of other varieties. There are head-trained vines and are dry farmed. Dan detects a violet spice and bay leaf flavors. But the best part is the structure, which makes it ideal for food like pizza. The one they are tasting is a 2021.
Dan Berger and Clark Smith.
Clark Smith is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, to discuss WineSmith unusual varietals and more. Clark Smith is an influential wine consultant, university instructor, scientist and musician. That is his website, Who Is Clark Smith? which is about wine and more. He is also one of the most frequently appearing guests in the history of California Wine Country. His most recent CWC show is this one last May.
Clark Smith applies the full spectrum of creative powers to making wine. He is known for making wine from unusual varietals, many that nobody has heard of. Dan Berger has known Clark Smith for decades and their conversation is one of hundreds they have had about wine over the years. This is the full unedited live show, nearly an hour of Dan and Clark’s combined experience.
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Clark Smith has brought a Chardonnay that he made, in a Faux Chablis style. A lot of people have grown tired of the big buttery toasty Chardonnays. That wine can be made in a very different way that gives it a steely, mineral flavor, not the oaky creamy kind that comes from ML (malolactic fermentation). As an example of WineSmith unusual varietals, it is at least an alternative way of making a common varietal. This is a 2003, so it is well-aged.
This wine is an example of Clark’s Forgeries and Oddities. This is Clark’s other website, WineSmith Wines, devoted entirely to wine.
Jeff Mangahas
Winemaker Jeff Mangahas from Williams Selyem Winery is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon today. Jeff has been on this show a few times before, the most recent was this episode from last March.
Williams Selyem produces a limited quantity of wine in the Russian River Valley, primarily Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Most of their wines come from a single vineyard and so they express varietal and terroir characteristics. While Williams Selyem wines are very famous among well-informed wine enthusiasts, it does not have enough production for its fame to be as widespread as others who make more product and can get it out into more places. Dan Berger calls Williams Selyem, “…one of Sonoma County’s greatest wines.”
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The founders Ed Selyem and Burt Williams were early garagistes making wine in the late ‘70s. They came out with the 1985 Rocchioli Vineyard bottling that won the California State Fair Sweepstakes in 1987. After that, demand shot up and they had to allocate individual bottles of wine to people.
Jeff’s first career was as a cancer research biologist with a degree in molecular biology from University of Washington. He became curious about wine while living in the pacific northwest. Wanting to try something different, he took a degree from UC Davis in viticulture and enology and has been working in the Russian River Valley since then.
They make many individual bottlings of single vineyard varietals, and Jeff is happy that he gets to work with the same top quality vineyards year after year. “Greatness in the bottle starts with greatness in the vineyard.” Because they are a vineyard-designate specialist, each wine has a unique profile that is a reflection of the location.
Christian Adams from The German Wine Collection is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.
Christian has brought three different German wines, each from a different producer. The 2021 Pinot Blanc is the first wine tasted. Its name Weissburgunder is German for Pinot Blanc, literally it means ‘White Burgundian.’
You don’t see much Pinot Blanc here in California but there is some in Menocino County and even in Idaho which Dan says is excellent. Also, Germany is producing “an unbelievable array” of delicious wines from new and different varieties. Christian likes the German Pinot Blancs that have “the tri-fecta” of good acidity, fruit and minerality all together.
Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.
The next wine tasting is the estate Chardonnay from Friedrich Becker. It was fermented in German oak barrels, and spends about 5 months in the fine lees. It has undergone malolactic fermentation but not so much to overpower the minerality. Dan says he prefers this style even if there is really only a trace of oak.
The German Wine CollectionThe German Wine Collection began from a portfolio put together by Rudy Wiest Selections. Dan laments that at the time, there were too many sommeliers who did not know the German wines, to everyone’s detriment.
The last tasting is a Pinot Noir. The entry-level estate Pinot Noir gets a “wow” from Steve. It is not Burgundian nor is it New World, says Dan. But it has a combination of delicacy and richness. Dan gets flavors of fresh beets, blueberry jam and the acidity in the aftertaste that you get from German wines. Christian makes bratwurst and found some old recipes that were handwritten. He has been able to make and recreate these flavors and styles that you can’t get any other way.
Doug Nalle, co-founder of Nalle Winery, is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. The last time Doug was on the show was this episode of April 19, 2023.
Doug Nalle and Dan Berger have been friends for fifty years. They have three Chardonnays to taste. First, a 2021 Chardonnay from Hopkins Ranch.
Doug and his wife Lee founded the winery in 1984 and they just finished their 41st harvest. They produce about 2000 cases per year. Mostly they make Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. Their Chardonnay is about 200 cases. Doug’s son Andrew is the winemaker now. He got a degree in enology from Fresno State. His wife April is a viticulturalist who went to Australia for training and works with the winery. They have roughly 24 acres of grapes and they use some and sell some. His wife’s family bought property in Dry Creek Valley 95 years ago and it is still in the family.
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Doug has brought two 2021 Zinfandels. Dan describes the Nalle property as “spectacular.” They have an above-ground cave. It is grade level with retaining walls on two sides. There are 6 feet of dirt stacked inside the walls, so the interior is naturally cool like an underground space.
Back in the 80s and 90s Zinfandel was a moderate alcohol wine, between 13 and 14 % ABV. Then the trend was for higher ABV but Doug did not follow that trend.
Vertical tasting of 3 ChardonnaysThey are tasting the 2021, 2022 and 2023 Chardonnays from Bob and Tony Hopkins’ vineyard in Russian River Valley. The 2021 is smooth and pure fruit. The 2022 has an extra layer of something.
Nalle Winery is open Friday Saturday and Sunday and maybe other days too at 2383 Dry Creek Road. Exit in Healdsburg and go west about 2.1 miles to their sign.
The 2023 is young, obviously and has barely been bottled. It is interesting to taste one that is so young just to know where the wines start out. Then the starting point for aging is five years, in Dan Berger’s opinion. Doug Nalle give credit to his son Andrew for the quality of the 2023. Andrew just finished a Masters degree in Enology at Fresno State. He studied particular strains of yeast and ways to use them.
Zinot NoirZinot Noir is something Doug and Andrew came up with by blending 60% Zinfandel and 40% Pinot Noir. They liked it for the forward fruit of Zin plus some “mysterious Pinot Noir thing going on.” It is a modest 13.65 ABV and they made only 280 cases of it.
Meissa and Dan.
California Wine Country today features Melissa Galliani, GM of Wine Country Radio, with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Melissa is a frequent guest on the show, and was with us most recently on this episode with winemaker Dennis McCarter.
Dan Berger’s first wine today is a 2023 that comes from Bibiana Ravé called Shared Notes. It is 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Semillon, aged on the lees for a long time. That is what gives it a silky texture. It sells for $80 and it is hard to find because they don’t make very much of it.
Next is a Vermentino. Where the last wine is subtle, this one is “in your face.” Dan Berger made this Vermentino himself. This is the 2023 bottling. The grower in Carneros is Las Brisas Vineyard. It is on a rise that overlooks the bay. There aromas of peaches and a little bit of pineapple. It is 100% natural and sells for $28 on Dan’s Bahl Fratty website. “…almost effervescent on the tongue,” as Melissa observes. This is Dan’s second year of making wine and he has moved his operation to a new location. The Vermentino was made at Ektimo Winery.
Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.
Gruner VeltlinerThe next wine is a Gruner Veltliner from Austria. It’s the most popular white wine in Austria and goes perfectly with Austrian style cuisine. Melissa makes a comparison between Austrian Wiener Schnitzel and Texas chicken fried steak and Steve waxes nostalgic for some. It’s only slightly sweet but is delicious. “Wow! That is a smooth sucker!” exclaims the host.
Next they are tasting a 2022 Governor’s Bay Sauvignon Blanc. It has typical New Zealand gooseberry and passion fruit flavors. Gooseberries are sweet and tart. There is also the under-ripe grapefruit flavor always there.
The next wine is a 2023 Diatom Chardonnay that has gotten rave reviews. It is all from Santa Barbara County, in a place where the soil is made of diatomaceous earth. In fact, DE filters are Diatomaceous Earth. The Diatom Chardonnay is produced by Brewer Clifton, a prominent Santa Barbara brand. It has more peach and pineapple components. There is no secondary fermentation and it is “quite soft.” They didn’t chill it but that would work well for it.
There is a DOC Pinot Grigio delle Venezie, Villa Borghetti from Italy, that is made with Pink Pinot Grigio grapes. It retails for $5.99 at Trader Joe’s. Pinot Grigio grapes will turn pink if you let them stay on the vine for an extra week or two or three.
Dan has a Pinot Noir, a 2019 Scherrer Green Valley Pinot Noir, from the Halberg Vineyard. Dan calls it “outrageously good.” “Fantastic,” says Steve. Melissa likes the spicy character that comes from Green Valley fruit.
Greg La Follette, Marchelle Wines founder and winemaker, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Greg is coming from the winery, where they are busy with harvest time. He is going right back too, after the show.
He was a chemist and did some work in early Aids research and then went back to school in food science and enology. Greg had the good fortune to work at Beaulieu Vineyards under André Tchelistcheff. They had similar technical backgrounds. André challenged Greg, telling him that he would learn the heart and soul of wine if he came to work for him, rather than stay in the lab. Greg turned out to become one of André’s greatest disciples.
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They are drinking a Colombard, which was once the most widely planted white wine grape up until the early ‘7. Now, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are the most planted.
Colombard and CinsaultThis 2022 Colombard is from two vineyards in Russian River Valley, planted respectively in 1902 and 1961. “It has a lot of bracing acidity,” and is only about 10.8% alcohol. Greg and his wife were working with owners of an abandoned Colombard vineyard, to restore it. Then, Single Thread restaurant in Healdsburg asked Greg to make their house wine. The only proviso was, no Chardonnay and it had to be from Sonoma County. Colombard was perfect for that, but after the pandemic there was too much of it so they relabeled it. They named it Marchelle, after their wives Mara and Michelle. Their daughter Sophia designed the label.
Marchelle wines are not really widely available but the best way to get them is at a tasting. Book that at their website.
The Historic Vineyard Society will hold its main event in Lodi, California. There are actually a lot of old vines around Lodi.
Evan Damiano is the winemaker for Greg La Follette now. Evan was on CWC earlier this year and he gives credit to Greg and André’s legacy and influence over his own work.
Taft Street Winery co-founder Mike Martini is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Mike was last on CWC on this episode of on September 15, 2023.
In 1979 there was hardly any Pinot Noir planted in the Russian River Valley. When Mike decided to open this property, it was risky because the region had not yet developed its reputation. Other better financed growers made a bigger impression. Mike describes their secret to success as a balance between ignorance and passion. They started making wine in the garage in 1978. His late partner Mike was the only man he knew who could fall asleep in his chair holding a wine glass and never spill a drop.
An “Interesting” HarvestMike says this has been an “interesting” year. In the 1980s the wine tourists would visit a winery and buy a case. Now the consumer has changed and a new generation wants a story, an experience and a photo op. Then, maybe, they buy a bottle, not a case. That is why this show is so important because the market is going through a great transition. People’s ability to appreciate the best wine depends on good information. As Mike says, change is inevitable. Wine sales are down but it is cyclical, but wine is getting better and better every year, says Dan.
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This year’s harvest is completed. The harvest has gone well, for Mike. The heat spells were stressful but the job is done. The vineyard demands 12 months of work all year, but the action happens in the three weeks at harvest time. Dan points out that a vineyard can be changed a little at a time, such as making adjustments to trellises. They are located on Barlow Lane at the intersection with Occidental Road.
Dan Berger is in the studio today with Sonoma County Harvest Fair Winners on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon. Dan Berger had decades of experience as a wine judge and he was a judge in this year’s Sonoma County Harvest Fair competition. He describes the new organization this year, where the judges only had 25 or 30 of one type of wine, instead of 55 or 60 of the same type. Dan likes this because the judges can get tired on too much of the same varietal. So, with a limited exposure to a single type of wine, the palette has a chance to regenerate. Also, the judging of each type is more spread out across all the judges.
What is the difference between a Gold Medal and a Sweepstakes? asks Steve. The Sweepstakes is a second round, more like a final round taste-off, where different varietals are against each other. This can be more difficult to understand. Dan says take it with a grain of salt. Gold Medal is good enough as a winning designation.
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The 2023 Hanna Sauvignon Blanc is the Sweepstakes winner. Jeff Hinchliffe made it at Hanna. It is from Russian River Valley. There is not a lot of Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc available because Jeff has been contracting for all the best fruit. Not only does it smell and taste right for the variety. Instead of favoring the strong herbaceous components, he favors the tropical fruit. It is rich with a great aftertaste. It sells for about $20 but Bottle Barn has it for $13.99. Bottle Barn has all he award-winning wines in the store, with the awards listed on the wine display.
Shone FarmNext is a 2022 Shone Farm wine, made by the students at SRJC. It is 13.9% ABV, so lower than average. It has fruit and spice flavors. The vineyard has been in the ground for 35 years. It’s a wine of personality, it is balanced with structure and good acidity.
It is remarkable that the students at SRJC have won a Gold Medal for their wine, in competition with all the other great winemakers in Sonoma County.
Barry Herbst is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger to talk about Harvest Fair Winners available at Bottle Barn. Barry is a frequent guest and his last time on the show was this episode last December to talk about sparkling wines. He has brought some winning wines from this year’s Harvest Fair.
This year there were two little late heat waves and harvest was hectic. There were whites and reds coming into the wineries all at once. The Sonoma County Harvest Fair wine winners have been published on the website. The Sweepstakes winners will be announced at the event, Saturday Oct. 12. Then there will be another episode of this show with more of those winning wines.
Dan Berger, Wine JudgeDan Berger served as one of the judges. The competition is entirely for Sonoma County. The judges are all locals or people with a long history of association with Sonoma County wines. Also, they have more time to evaluate the wines. Deborah del Fiorentino does a great job running the competition.
Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.
They taste the Capo Isetta Rosé that won a double Gold Medal. Three of their wines won medals. This wine sells for $15.99 per bottle. The grapes are Pinot Noir from Carneros and is fairly dry. Barry says that given the rising price of grapes, it is harder and harder to get Rosés for less than $20. Everyone understands that good quality Pinot Noir grapes are expensive and are mostly going to making reds.
The firstHarvest Fair was in 1975 and today it is one of the premier regional wine competitions in the country. Dan appreciates the organization that gave the judges plenty of time and also a rotation of wines, so they did not get tired of any of them.
Dan and Tom.
Tom Birdsall, owner of Black Kite Cellars, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. This is Tom’s first time on the show however their winemaker Jeff Gaffner was on the show on this episode of March 11, 2020.
Black Kite Cellars began when Tom and his wife Rebecca went on a cycling tour through Burgundy. They were just consumers of wine at that time. Then in the late 1990s his wife’s father bought a vineyard in Anderson Valley and planted the 12 acres to Pinot. Not all the fruit was sold. He had some leftover grapes in 2003 and found a winery, Handley Cellars, to produce some wine from that harvest. Then Rebecca made the plan started Black Kite Cellars as a small family-owned winery. Tom mentions that they were lucky to find Jeff Gaffney to be the winemaker, right at the beginning. Now they are specialized in Sonoma Coast and Anderson Valley. The coast has weather conditions perfect for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. They begin by tasting a Chardonnay that Dan calls “substantial” and “opulent.”
The Black Kite or White-tailed KiteThe Black Kite is a bird, a small hawk, which is Rebecca’s father’s favorite bird. The local was known as the black-shouldered kite, now known as the white-tailed kite. Dan mentions that this bird is good at controlling voles and mice which can wreck vines. Another word for this bird is “angel hawk” which winemaker Jeff Gaffner remembers calling it. This is because of the way they hover over the land while hunting. So Angel Hawk became the name of their reserve label.
They only make about 3000 cases per year and they are in local shops and restaurants. They also now have a new tasting room in the town of Freestone. It is small but very well appointed. It is also right at the corner of the vineyard. They are open 7 days a week and they prefer appointments. The West Sonoma Coast, the newest appellation in the county, is their specialty. Their current production is eight Pinot Noirs and four Chardonnays. The wine they are tasting is a Pinot from Roberts Road vineyard, in Petaluma Gap, that the Sangiacomo family owns.
Oded Shakked, owner of Longboard Vineyards, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He has been on the show before. His last appearance was this episode on November 17, 2023. He has a long history of making high quality wines from his small properties.
He grew up surfing in Israel and then, looking for good waves, he went to surf the Atlantic beaches. In France, he discovered wine, then he heard about UC Davis, came to study in the program and, “never looked back.” He had a series of winemaking jobs and started his own vineyard
On West Side Road he has about five acres where he grows about 40% of the grapes he uses at Longboard. His neighbors are the Rocchioli family, and their famous vineyard. He feels lucky that they sell some grapes to him. As neighbors, their kids played sports together.
Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.
They begin tasting the Rocchioli Vineyard Chardonnay. He wants people to consider aging this white wine. A well-made white wine, not over-oaked and doesn’t have residual sugar, it gets a “sun-dried linen” character, as one of his professors described it.
They also taste a Syrah, which reminds Dan that all these wines need some time in the bottle. Wines are like cakes in the oven, says Oded. You have to have patience for the wine to develop complexity. Dan says that if you open it and taste it two days later, it can also open up a lot.
They have a cellar, a lounge and vineyard in Healdsburg. The place used to be the Magnolia Cannery, then it was Clos du Bois winery, and later under other brands.
Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.
Dan Berger is back on California Wine Country after some vacation travel and today he joins Steve Jaxon with some thoughts about harvest time and some wines to taste.
Dan Berger and Steve Jaxon will talk about harvest time today and taste some wines that Dan has brought. We were going to have Deborah Del Fiorentino on to talk about her organization of wine competitions including the Sonoma County Harvest Fair. But we will have to reschedule her. In the meantime, Dan Berger has brought some wines from his extensive personal cellar.
This year Spring was cool and the vines matured more slowly than usual. It took a long time for the vines to come out of hibernations. Then, after bud break, we had come brutally warm weather, then cool again. There wasn’t enough rain to do any damage. Then late summer, we had 100 degree days but much colder at night, which favors retention of acid.
Growers and winemakers are facing a choice. Either pick early, save acidity and hope for flavor, or pick late and need to adjust later. With all the variables in play, Dan says, “…it will be a chicken with three legs.”
https://calwinecountry.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Buddy-Hackett-3-leg-Chick.mp3Here is a California Wine Country bonus track, it’s Buddy Hackett on Carson in the ‘70s on the subject of a 3-legged chicken.
Some Chardonnay and Pinot Noir will be harvested early. But if you are a winery purchasing fruit from a grower for the first time, “…you’re on your own,” says Dan. The decision of when to pick may also be affected by a labor shortage.
They taste a vineyard-designated Pinot Noir from Etude Vineyards, grown at Hallberg vineyards.
Dennis McCarter, owner and winemaker of McCarter Cellars, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. This is his second time as a guest on CWC, the last time was this episode back in January of this year. Dan Berger is away again this week and Melissa Galliani joins us in the studio.
Dennis tells about having taken a course at SRJC about pairing wine and food, which left him with the desire to start making wine. He started by making five gallons of Barbera in his garage. As he continued to make wine, he started winning awards, so he decided to go pro. That coincided with his transition out of the insurance business.
The 2022 Sauvignon Blanc came from Rogers vineyard in Dry Creek Valley. The location is on the cooler side of the area.
Dennis eventually finished enology studies at SRJC. His wines started winning awards right away. They continue to win recently. The inaugural Pinot Noir earned 98 points and took best of class at the North Coast Wine Challenge, sponsored by the Press Democrat and his Gewürztraminer took silver there. His Rosé, Pinkish, took a gold medal at Experience Rosé challenge.
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Dennis is involved in a group of American Vintners that meets quarterly. He is also on the board of the Sonoma Library Foundation, to do fund raising. With them, he helped organize Tasting Diversity, where they hosted events to raise exposure for African-American owned wineries. For more information about Tasting Diversity, visit this page at the Sonoma Library Foundation and scroll down to the middle of the page where it is listed among their other events.
Discount CodeThere is a discount code WINERADIO for listeners to get 15% off.
Dennis has accomplished a lot as a winemaker after only two years. His Gewurtztraminer is tasty and Dennis attributes its success to his method that includes he and his wife pressing the grapes with their own feet. His favorite wines to make are Pinot Noir and Zin, and aromatic whites like Gewurtztraminer.
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McCarter Cellars will have a tasting room by the end of the year, in a location across from where Carol Shelton Wines is located. Wait for news by the end of harvest season. That is starting to get busy now.
Dan, Janice and Jamie.
Janis McDonald and Jamie Peters are here to talk about Winesong! 2024 on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Winesong! takes place Sept. 6-7, 2024 at the Little River Inn. It is the annual fund raiser for the Mendocino Coast Healthcare Foundation.
First, Dan Berger has brought a cellar wine, as he usually does. This is a 2007 St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc. He normally doesn’t age this wine so long, but at 17 years it is “yummy” with a little green apple flavor. Usually a SV will age 6 or 7 years.The event this year is at the Little River Inn. It is two days of wine tasting, auctions and music, over the weekend of September 6 and 7.Winesong! Began in 1985 as a small wine tasting in a parking lot and grew year after year. It has always been a benefit for health care on the north coast.
Winesong! is a Spectacular SceneDan Berger has been going to this event for a long time. The wineries that participate are specialized in making very high quality wine. The scenery is also spectacular on the site and all around in the area.
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For several years Winesong has been in the botanical garden. That location is being reorganized and they hope to return there as early as next year. There is a strong sense of community at this event. Friends see each other there every year. Everyone enjoys supporting the Mendocino hospital and health care facilities.
There are two musical groups. Tenor Madness, a jazz band, plays Friday. On Saturday a rock cover band called the Casper Kings will play hits from the 80s and later.
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Dan Berger notes that over the last 5 years, Anderson Valley wines have improved tremendously. So have Mendocino wines, generally, in the last decade.
The tasting and the music, the food, all on Saturday. But Friday afternoon is the Pinot Noir celebration. It used to be just Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs but since 2015 they have opened it to other regions that make Pinot Noir, like Willamette, the Sonoma Coast and Central Coast.
One thing that Dan appreciates about Winesong is that you get a chance to taste excellent wines from producers that you have never heard of before.
Winemaker Carol Shelton is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. CWC co-host Dan Berger is away this week. Carol is one of our most distinguished winemakers and a regular on this show. Her last time here was last January, in this episode with Dan Berger and with Harry Duke sitting in for Steve Jaxon.
Carol Shelton graduated from UC Davis in 1978. This year will be her 48th harvest, and her 25th harvest for her own brand. There were a few years where she worked on two harvests in a year, in the northern and southern hemisphere. Carol Shelton worked for Mondavi, in Australia, in the Central Valley, for Rodney Strong for 20 years, for the Windsor Wines label.
Zinfandel is her favorite varietal. It makes up about 70% of her production now. She wanted to show the world that Zin could be as noble a grape as Pinot and Cab. Old vines of Zin have a unique concentration of flavor.
Wild ThingCarol Shelton Wines is located in a business park on Coffey Lane. This weekend she will be bottling a port that has been in the barrels since 2015. She calls it Tawny Sonoma. You can’t use the name Port anymore. That is the same as other geographical names that are protected like Sherry and Burgundy.
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The name Wild Thing for her Zinfandel made with naturally occurring yeast, happened almost accidentally. There was one barrel that was not inoculated with yeast, and they put the words “wild thing” on the barrel. When they put it on a bottle, it sold like hotcakes. So that is how the brand was born. It was in the Top 100 Wines in the Wine Spectator, along with two other of her wines. There is also a 2023 Wild Thing Chardonnay which they are tasting. There is a little Viogner blended in, to give it some tropical notes. It is unusual, in that it is neither the steely type nor the buttery type. There are actually about 8 yeasts, each one brings some different flavors and she blends them all together before bottling.
They even source some fruit from Southern California, from Cucamonga. Their vines are over 100 years old. They are old vines that are knee high with roots running 50 feet down.
Coquille BlancThey also taste a Coquille Blanc, which is named for shellfish, and reflects her family coat of arms which has shells on it, for the name Shelton. The fruit all comes from Paso Robles.
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Carol describes a game that her mother played with her. She set up blind tastings of different herbs and she had to describe the flavors and identify them. She liked the combination of art and science in winemaking.
Then they taste the Rendez-Vous 2023 Rosé. “My Rosé is not one of those wimpy pale ones.” All the flavor is in the skin and this one spends 2 days on the skins. It is a rather dark red, for a Rosé and goes well with any kind of food. Modeled after a French Tavel Rosé, it is made of Carignane grapes.
Winemaker Dan Barwick with Melissa Galliani.
Winemaker Dan Barwick is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Dan is the winemaker at Trecini Winery. He has been on CWC before, the most recent was this other episode recorded on Aug. 25, 2023. Our regular co-host Dan Berger is on vacation this week.
Right away Steve Jaxon is loving Dan Barwick’s Sauvignon Blanc. It’s made with all Sonoma County fruit, mostly Russian River. It has rich flavors of apricot and mango. “Easy to drink,” says Dan.
Trecini has been bottling wine for 25 years. Dan took several courses at UC Davis and at Santa Rosa Junior College in winemaking including courses from Rich Thomas. He was at the forefront of changing viticulture in Sonoma County in ways which improved the quality of Sonoma County wines. He taught that you had to be in the vineyard to get to understand the vines. This helps him make decisions about pruning and harvesting.
Sauvignon BlancDan says that Sauvignon Blanc is his favorite wine to make. He can make blends with fruit from different vineyards, to assemble the flavors he wants. It’s hard to believe that such a good wine sells for $15. In addition to Sauvignon Blanc, Trecini also makes Chardonnay, Russian River Pinot Noir and Merlot, too.
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Dan Barwick recently visited Croatia, staying in a town called Rovinj. The wine and food and the whole scene was incredibly beautiful. Dan suggests everyone put Croatia on the bucket list. It is on the coast so there is a lot of seafood. The local olive oil is very fine. A delicious glass of local wine will cost 2 or 3 dollars.
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Dan Barwick talks about his early experience working in the food hall at Harrod’s in London, where he was exposed to all the best of everything, including wine. The chocolates were right next to the wine department. He worked there from the age of 18 to 27.
Williams Selyem winemaker Jeff Mangahas is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Jeff has been on CWC as recently as last February on this episode, and previously here in 2021 and before that, on this episode from 2018.
Wine Country Radio GM Melissa Galliani has brought a bottle of Dry Creek Chenin Blanc. Dry Creek is a sponsor of the KRSH Backyard Concert Series and their Chenin Blanc is a popular favorite. “Really refreshing,” says Jeff.
Williams Selyem has a rich history as one of the original Russian River Valley producers. Their first commercial release was in 1981. They have been making interesting, small-production wines in Russian River Valley and other nearby regions.
Williams Selyem: Russian River Valley PioneersWilliams Selyem worked with the growers in Russian River Valley, such as the Rocchioli and Martinelli vineyards. They produce 52 different wines, in small lots. The are not easy to get so the way to buy them is through the website.
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Jeff Mangahas joined Williams Selyem in 2011 and took over winemaking and viticulture in 2014. This year is his 24th vintage.
They taste the 2022 Estate Chardonnay. They are also well-known for Pinot Noir and Zin. This Chardonnay is unique because it has 20 different Chardonnay clones all planted together in the field. It presents all the different flavors that are present in the different clones and it makes for a complex wine.
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Jeff’s history as a winemaker started with his interest in science and biology. He majored in molecular and cellular biology at University of Washington. He was interested in research science and worked in cancer research. Wine was a hobby. He moved back east to Princeton University to work in the molecular biology department there. The change to wine as a profession was a romantic idea that he made happen by going to UC Davis for a Masters in Enology.
Dan Berger would keep this wine for no more than 2 or 3 years to get it in the glass before the fruit flavors fade.
Kevin Bersofsky from Montagne Russe Wines joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. He has been on CWC before, most recently on this episode of August 3, 2022.
On Saturday August 10, the Wind to Wine festival is at the Gambonini Family Ranch in Petaluma.
They start by tasting a sparkling wine that Kevin Bersofsky has made. Dan calls it “a very serious bubbly.” It’s a Brut Rosé and it is very dry. The flavors are fruity but not sweet.
The Petaluma Gap was designated as an AVA in 2017. Kevin was using vineyards that were there before the AVA became official, like Springhill Ranch, Roberts Road, Gap’s Crown, Terra de Promissio, Keller Estates, Sunchase, Night Wing, …
Montagne RusseMontagne Russe is the French, Italian and Spanish word for a Roller-Coaster. It literally means “Russian Mountains” because it was russian impresarios who brought ice to Paris and used it to decorate their roller coaster attractions.
It can be in the 90s in the Petaluma Gap area, but by evening the wind comes in and it can be 20 degrees cooler. It blows in from Bodega Bay, off the sea. There are only two places that have east-west valleys that produce great wine, Santa Barbara County and Petaluma Gap.
Dan says that the Petaluma Gap wines all have good structure because the acidity is strong. The grapes don’t ripen as fast, so by staying on the vine they build up acidity. The average wind speed is 8 MPH faster in the gap than anywhere else in Sonoma County. The grapes like to cool down.
The Gambonini Family Ranch will be the host of the Wind to Wine festival, with food music, wine talks and 30 or more Petaluma Gap wineries pouring wines.
Dan’s favorite Syrahs come from northern Victoria in Australia. They don’t even import them to the US, but Dan Berger has some in his estensive personal cellar.
The next wine they taste is the Montagne Russe 2021 Pinot Noir from the Roberts Road vineyard. Kevin knows that this is a vineyard that always makes good wine. Dan gets traces of cherry and also pomegranate. Steve likes the neologism Nutmeggy.
Dan explains how the Sonoma Coast appellation was too varied and needed better definition. So the Petaluma Gap AVA was truly unique and deserved to be created.
Melissa Galliani, Dan Berger & Justin Seidenfeld.
Justin Seidenfeld, Rodney Strong head winemaker, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. Justin Seidenfeld has been on CWC a few times, most recently on this episode of April 27, 2022.
They begin tasting a brand new wine that they just launched on June 1st. It is a single vineyard 2023 Sauvignon Blanc from one of their estate vineyards called Bud’s Ranch. Justin modelled this wine after a Bordeaux style, it is richer than the usual SV. 55% made in large oak barrels, then the rest is done in stainless steel. Dan says it is aimed at being ready to drink now and also to be held in the cellar.
2023 was an interesting vintage, it was cooler than average, which gives the wines structure without being tart. There is just enough acidity to have balance. They also use a rotating egg-shaped vessel for mixing during fermentation, which gives it lees contact.
Justin started in 2005 at Iron Horse Vineyards while still going to school at UC Davis. Then he worked at Robert Mondavi before coming to Rodney Strong.
Rodney Strong had the thirteenth bonded winery in California. He did a lot of firsts, like planting Chardonnay in Chalk Hill and makin the first Alexander Valley single vineyard Cabernet. He was also a founder of the Russian River Valley and Chalk Hill AVAs. Justin Seidenfeld helped drive the approval of the Petaluma Gap AVA.
Dan Berger started writing about wine in 1976, working for the Los Angeles Herald-Examiner. He had a very informative 2-hour lunch interview with Rodney Strong that year.
1158 Acres of VineyardsRodney Strong winery is now owned by the Klein family and now owns 12 vineyard sites with 1158 acres total. It is critical to their success to have control over the vineyards as well as production. Dan Berger notices the flavor of fresh-cut new-mown hay in this Sauvignon Blanc which makes it unique.
Rodney Strong is famous for its Cabernets and for its Chalk Hill Chardonnay. They also make a very good Pinot Noir, all from Russian River Valley. Their Alexander Valley Estate Cabernet retails for about $20. Justin says it punches above its weight, at that price. They literally buy their barrels as trees in France. That and the fact that they own their vineyards means their retail price is modest, they can focus on quality and evolve. They have just finished rennovating their vineyards and are ready for generations in the future.
August 24 is the Single Vineyard Dinner, when they release their top wines. They taste one that is a 2019 100% single vineyard Cabernet, which is a demonstration of terroir. The 3 wines to be revealed on August 24 are similar except for their vineyard location so they taste differently.
As Justin describes, Rodney Strong’s intention is to surprise and delight.
Dan and Darryl.
Darryl Miller, Dehlinger Winery rep, is back in the studio on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. He has been a guest on CWC twice before, on this episode on August 26, 2020 and again on July 20, 2022.
Dan Berger describes Darryl Miller as, “…one of the good guys.” Darry has been in the wine business for more than 50 years. The Dehlinger winery has been around since the 1970s. It was one of the first vineyards to be planted in western Sonoma County in 1975 in an area that was mostly apple orchards. Tom Dehlinger is still involved in the winery but his daughters are running it. Darryl was hired to represent Dehlinger in the marketplace. It is rare to find wines that have such character, says Dan Berger.
The area was cooler in the 1970s than today. Tom Dehlinger worked carefully in the vineyard in order to keep high acidity in the wines, so they are consistent. Almost all the Chardonnay planted on the Dehlinger vineyard is the Wente clone. They begin tasting the 2021 estate Chardonnay.
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Dehlinger ChardonnayThe Chardonnay is deep and rich, with acidity in the aftertaste and has a long finish. A lot of other Chards are sweeter. Dehlinger Winery has control over all aspects of the farming and production.
Darryl Miller started in Seattle in the restaurant business 50 years ago where he was working as a waiter. Their wine steward suggested that he knew enough about wine to be successful in wine sales. He started working nights in the restaurant and days “on the street.” Then in 1981 he started his own company as a broker and he worked with some of the greatest brands at the time.
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Dan Berger knows that property and describes it as being on a slight hill. The soils do change from place to place. In one area, there is gray Goldridge soil. In another area, there is brown Altamont soil. They are one of the few areas that has some Altamont soil. Every block ripens at a different pace. Every vine has a number and they harvest individual areas to make sure each vine is harvested at the right time.
Dehlinger was also one of the first wineries to plant Cabernet Sauvignon in Sonoma County.
Dan, Joey and Mark.
Mark Mathewson and Joey Stockton from Kendall-Jackson, join Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. Joey Stockton is the winemaker in charge of Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay and Mark Methewson is VP of Hospitality. CWC has featured KJ before, on this episode recorded on October 19, 2016, when KJ winemaster Randy Ullom was our guest.
KJ is the official NBA wine partner. This began during the pandemic when NBA players were confined to hotels and some of them complained about the poor wine selection available to them. When the folks at KJ heard about that, they sent 50 cases of their wine, which really got people’s attention and led to the official sponsorship deal.
However this is not KJ’s first foray into sports sponsorships. Dan Berger did a speaking engagement at the opening of Jacobs Field in Cleveland. He was in Ohio for another reason, and Randy Ullom invited Dan to Cleveland to talk about KJ wines, which were going to be the exclusive wine supplier to the luxury boxes at Jacobs Field.
Climate Ride, coming in AugustKJ is hosting a fund raising event called The Climate Ride on August 17. Julia Jackson is a climate philanthropist who has funded an organization called Grounded, which funds high-impact climate solutions. She wanted to do a fund raiser, so they started a collaboration with Climate Ride. The ride starts and finishes at KJ. There are 4 routes to choose from, from short to long, for riders of every level of endurance. The most ambitious one is 81 miles with 4700 feet of elevation. We will have more about Climate Ride in the weeks before the event, on this show. There will be wines from KJ, beers from Seismic Brewing and cider from Golden State, along with music and food from the KJ culinary team.
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Speaking of events, tomorrow is the Sonoma County Vintners’ annual Taste of Sonoma event, also at KJ. Dan Berger will be wearing his Argentine straw hat.
Joey Stockton started his career in wine in Washington state, then worked in Napa Valley and started at KJ when they started in 2011. Now he is the Chardonnay winemaker.
KJ Dry RieslingThe first wine they taste is a 2022 dry Riesling. They saw a quote from Dan Berger that there is not enough dry Riesling out there. Back in 2018 they had the same idea and started making it. They made it in a concrete egg, a ceramic egg and stainless steel. When the ceramic egg broke, they had to work with the concrete egg and steel. Dan says it has just a trace of sugar and it is perfectly balanced and has perfect varietal aroma.
Next they taste the KJ Chardonnay. Dan has written about how complicated it is to make this high quality wine consistently year after year, with a high production volume. The grapes all come from Mendocino, Monterey and Santa Barbara, all coastal regions, and cool surf towns. As time goes by, the KJ approach to Chardonnay has evolved and today shows better acidity than before. This wine has tastes of White Burgundy. It is not sweet. They do “surly aging” meaning they age the wine on the lees and they stir the barrels monthly.
Mark Matthewson is VP of Hospitality (not Operations, as originally stated). KJ has a property in Tuscany that Dan says is amazing.
André
Mark Tchelistcheff is also here today with Bob Cabral on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He is the grand-nephew of André Tchelistcheff, the great winemaker. He is the author of a film “André, The Voice of Wine,” a documentary about André’s influential career and his love of wine. André’s enduring legacy is primarily in the many other great winemakers that he trained. There was great wine coming from California even in the late 1800s. After Prohibition, André was perhaps the one most influential winemaker in California after his arrival in late 1938.
Dan Berger mentions that André made Riesling, just as Dan does now. The first dry Riesling that Dan really liked was one that André had made at Beaulieu Vineyards. The Bob Cabral Riesling they are tasting is a 2018 called Meadowfoam. This one is completely dry with no residual sugar. It is made in a concrete egg-shaped vessel. Concrete is neutral, especially when treated with tartaric acid. Dan says it is a longer and more difficult process but is worth it. The proof is that at 5 years old, this wine has not reached its peak yet.
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You can see Mark’s documentary at the film’s website, called André The Voice of Wine dot com.
Mark talks about how Georges de Latour (a French winemaker who had settled in California) hired André after Prohibition.
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Mark goes on to talk about how Georges de Latour (a French winemaker who had settled in California) hired André after Prohibition. The rest of the show is a combination of stories about André and tasting some more of Bob Cabral’s wines.
Winemaker Bob Cabral.
Winemaker Bob Cabral is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, after a long time. His last appearance on the show was this episode on October 20, 2021.
This 2024 harvest will be Bob Cabral’s 45th harvest in the wine business. Bob Cabral Wines is his label now. He grew up in Central California where his parents were growers of red wine grapes and almonds.
Bob pronounces almonds “amands” with the short A, which is a pronunciation unique to the California central valley where they grow. (This pronunciation is close to the form and pronunciation of the French word for almonds, “amands”.) He studied winemaking at Fresno State and got a Master’s in Biochemistry, moving to Sonoma County in 1986. Bob has travelled the world for his business.
He worked for DeLoach vineyards under Randy Ullom, who is now at Kendall-Jackson. He just celebrated thirty years there. Then he went to Kente, worked for some consulting winemakers, then Alderbrook, now owned by the Orsi family.
2011 Winemaker of the YearBack in 2011 Wine Enthusiast magazine named Bob Cabral its Winemaker of the Year. Now they are tasting Bob’s 2019 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. Bob tells about how he is getting ready to move to Paradise Ridge. He will lease half of their winery and he will make his wines while Paradise Ridge will also continue to make wine. It should be open in July. Paradise Ridge will also be open for visitors.
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Next they taste a 2021 Rosé called American Girl, a Rosé of Pinot Noir. He first made it this way in 2016, but he stopped making it until 2021 again. “It may be a pain to make but it’s not a pain to taste!”
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Dan Berger says it has a little of the richness of a white wine but also some of the structure of a red. Steve Jaxon declares that it is one of the best Rosés he has ever tasted. Dan suggests it would go perfectly with Steak Tartare. “An explosion of flavor in your mouth,” in Bob Cabral’s words.
Quady Winery co-founder Andy Quady is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. The Quady Winery is located in Madera in the San Joaquin Valley. Their website shows an exotic version of a Margarita and also an idea for Sangria made with Moscato. Most of what they make is Muscat grapes, or Moscato. Orange Muscat is also called Moscato Fior d’arancio (Italian for Orange Flower Muscat). They also use Muscat Hamburg, also called Black Muscat. Muscat Canelli (so-called in California) is Moscato Bianco, used in all the Italian Moscato wines.
The first Quady Winery vintage was 1975. They made their first Vermouth in 1999. He graduated from UC Davis and spent a lot of time in southern France. He saw that in Marseille they have a habit of drinking a vermouth as an aperitif. Its combination of bitterness and sweetness works well at that moment of the day, before a meal.
Dan Berger explains how quality vermouth should be treated, which is not the way it is treated here in the US. People open a vermouth and use some, then put it away. The wine oxidizes and loses flavor. In Europe people don’t have that problem because they drink more of it and it doesn’t hang around. Quady makes three vermouths, dry, extra dry and sweet. Vya is the name of their line of Vermouth and Andy has a good story of its origin.
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In the US we use vermouth as a cocktail ingredient but in Europe people drink it straight, mostly on the rocks, as an aperitif. In Italy, people drink white or red vermouth over ice, before dinner. Andy started making vermouth because he had a customer who ran a restaurant where the customers didn’t want old stale crummy vermouth in their drinks. The extra dry vermouth would go with a gin martini, and the Whisper would go with vodka.
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The label includes the plants (or “botanicals” if you prefer) that go into flavoring the vermouth. People drink vodka martinis because they don’t like gin, so the vermouth shouldn’t suggest a gin martini either, which is a result that Andy can achieve with his highly perfumed and delicately flavored vermouth. Other vermouth brands treat their recipe like a family secret or a state secret. Dan pronounces the aromatics, “captivating but delicate.” Beefeater gin is made only with juniper flavor. This makes a classic martini when mixed with a vermouth that matches and compliments the juniper flavor.
Evan Damiano (center) with (l-r) Dan, Melissa and Chris.
Evan Damiano, winemaker at Marchelle Wines, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. Marchelle Wines is Greg La Follette’s label and he was on CWC earlier this year on February 9, on this epiode. Also in the studio today are Melissa Galliani, GM of Wine Country Radio and Chris DiMatteo, producer of this podcast, who has brought and uncorked a 1985 Barolo he has been holding for thirty years.
Evan Damiano started working with wine in 2010 when he worked a harvest in Oregon, then in Australia, at Balletto and then he took a “sojourn” to Milwaukee to try brewing, but that didn’t work out. While living in Milwaukee, he sold high end Cabernets to restaurants, including some prestigious Napa Valley names. The pandemic wrecked his business when everything closed. He wanted to get back into wine and got an offer from Pride Mountain Vineyards. But in 2020, the fires affected them so much that there was no wine to be made. Evan emailed his friend Greg La Follette.
Evan had met Greg when he worked selling wine, Greg’s wines were in his portfolio. He got a job in another winery and in the evening he was helping out at Greg’s winery. Evan got to do more and more under Greg’s supervision and eventually became assistant winemaker then fully titled winemaker.
J&H Estates, Marchelle Wines and Evan’s winemaking lineageEvan is making some wines now where he is making the picking decisions as well as doing the winemaking. They did a whole-cluster press into new barrels. J & H Estates is owned by two African-American women partners. Evan has brought a bottle of Chardonnay that he made for their label. Greg La Follette’s label is Marchelle Wines, where Evan is the winemaker now. Greg was the last apprentice of André Tchelitscheff and Evan is the last apprentice of Greg La Follette. Evan is proud of this lineage.
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Dan Berger has brought a bottle of his now award-winning Bahl Fratty Riesling. This 2022 has just won a Gold Medal at the Sunset International Wine Competition. They ask Chris to describe it in Italian, which he does. “Proprio secco!” means “really dry!” Quanto costa? (How much does it cost?) Dan Berger answers, $38, having understood the Italian question. Bravo Dan!
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The 1985 BaroloChris has brought a bottle of Barolo from 1985, so at 39 years, one of the oldest wines, if not the oldest wine we have ever tasted on this show. Dan Berger waxes eloquent to describe it. Barolo is known for being able to last this long and this one has survived its 39 years with deep complex flavors.
Chris does a jazz radio show called This is Jazz broadcast on Radio Morcote International and this week’s show is a Steve Jaxon tribute show. Steve Jaxon did a show called Swingin’ with Sinatra and Chris’ show this week uses some of Steve Jaxon’s voice work and music programming. You can listen to the weekly one-hour This is Jazz show here at the Radio Morcote International site’s “podcast” page, scroll down to the third item. Find the dropdown menu for several weeks of older shows.
Evan will be pouring Marchelle Wines at Big West Vine Fest at Solar Punk Farms in Guerneville this weekend. It is a new wine festival that is attracting a young crowd. And Dan will be there too pouring his Riesling.
Taste of Sonoma is happening Saturday June 22, 2024. Here is a link to the radio report on CWC from the 2023 Taste of Sonoma.
Evan pours a barrel sample of a Cab that he is about to bottle. Then Dan opens a California Barbera. It’s different than the Italian Barberas. It is good, but in a different way. Piedmont is cooler so the local Barbera isn’t as strong as this California one. It’s warmer here so the Barbera is stronger than the usual common everyday Italian Barbera.
California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger celebrates World Chardonnay Day with a selection of Chards and Rosés.
Dan has brought two Chardonnays, three Rosés and a mystery wine from Dan’s cellar. The first tasting is called Samur, and it’s a 2022 Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley. The producer is Arnaud Lambert. It is on the sweet side, a “patio wine” says Dan. The region is south-east of Paris. It starts on the Atlantic coast and follows the river east over 100 miles.
Next, they taste a 2022 Knuttel Family Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley. Bill Knuttel was the winemaker at Dry Creek Vineyards for a long time. This wine won a gold medal at the recent Press Democrat wine competition. It has a bit of both rich and tart flavors.
“Sonoma County makes better Chardonnay than just about any American wine region.” -Dan Berger.
There are so many sub-regions of Sonoma County that produce different styles of Chardonnay.
The Wine Market Right NowWine sales are down. Why, everyone asks? Is it because millennials have more options for beverages than ever before? Within the last 6 months, the craft brewing industry has collapsed, and sales of wine are flat but not off. It is more seasonal than beer. Beer sells year-round, but wine has summertime specialties like Rosés. When the weather turns hot, everybody wants Rosé. Red wine is not a summertime wine, although Pinot Noir is “going nuts” while zinfandel sales are flat. Maybe that’s because people are backing off the high alcohol wines. Other varietals are getting more attention, relatively speaking, such as Syrah, Grenache and many more.
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Dan describes Chardonnay as kind of neutral flavored, as a grape, it really doesn’t have a lot of flavor. It is sort of citrussy and fresh, but not always. If harvested late, it can be rich and bold. But it is a clean canvas for a winemaker. Since Chardonnay doesn’t have very much by itself, if it is properly treated in the vineyard and in the winery, then in the barrel, everything you do can change the wine. From year to year, what style does mother nature allow a winemaker to make that year? Dan notes three types, from three Sonoma County regions, Petaluma Gap, Russian River Valley and Bennet Valley. Petaluma Gap has wind and Russian River Valley has fog. Both conditions slow the ripening so the grape stay on the vines a bit longer. This is also true of Bennet Valley, in Sonoma County. Dry Creek Valley can also produce some great Chardonnay, although it is better known for other varietals.
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A German ChardonnayNext is a 2021 Chardonnay from Germany. Chardonnay has appeared in Germany only in the last ten years, as climate change has made Germany warmer. In the future some vineyards that produce Riesling will probably be converted to Chardonnay. They are even making Chapagne-style wines in England now, which was impossible before the warming of the climate.
Rosés too, today
Rosés became popular after stainless steel tanks were developed that allowed winemakers to keep the temperature down during winemaking. The first tasting is Campuget, a Rosé from France, very dry with a trace of sugar. Another is a 2022 Mas de Gourgonnier. (Mas is an old French word for a farm. -ed. note)
Clark Smith has a Noam Chomsky story to tell.
Clark Smith is in the studio for California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Today he tells his MIT stories and more. The Clark Smith MIT story begins with his first two years of college, at Massachusetts Institute of Technology. This podcast episode is from the portion of the live show where Clark tells his personal story. Clark’ last appearance on CWC was this episode of last March.
The rest of Clark’s conversation with Steve and Dan is about the wines he brought in today, so that has its own podcast episode, here.
Clark Smith dropped out of MIT after two years and we finally hear the story today. At MIT, the senior faculty teach the Freshman courses. So he had Noam Chomsky for Linguistics, Francis Crick for microbiology, and several others. The trouble came when he had to declare a major at the beginning of his junior year, after earning straight As his first two years. He wanted to create his own major that combined science and art in some way. Today, that is a common practice in universities but at that time, he was not able to do it. So he dropped out thinking he would take a year to figure it out.
The One-Way Cross Country TripThat is when Clark and a friend drove across the country and he ended up getting a job in a wine shop in Oakland. Someone asked him about a bottle of Paul Masson Emerald Dry wine. He didn’t have the answer, so he started tasting the wines, eventually all of them.
There were 250 wineries in the US and he visited a lot of them, maybe “all” of them. One day while visiting a winery he told his wife, that this was his calling. He is happy to have found the art plus science angle he was looking for. After that, he completed the BS and MS programs at UC Davis. Then he helped found RH Philips winery and he started his WineSmith consultancy.
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When he was working for Benziger, their owner needed to find non-alcoholic wine. So he bought a reverse osmosis machine. One of the big problems of winemaking up to the 1970 was how to get rid of VA, Volatile Acidity, i.e. vinegar. In 1960 the average wine in California was 18.5% ABV, mostly Port and Sherry but that was before enough people learned how to really do it.
There is great wine coming from places like South Africa and Australia, but most of the best product stays in the country of origin.
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Visit Clark’s website to see the section about Forgeries and Oddities. Forgeries are wines that he makes exactly like wines from other places. His Cabernet Franc is Bordeaux style, made like a St. Emillion, and his Cabernet Sauvignon is made like a Pomerol. The Oddities are wines made from rare grapes you’ve never heard of, like Norton.
Enter the promo code IKNOWCLARK all caps no spaces, for a 20% discount.
Baran Ziegler and Steve Dveris in the CWC studio.
We have two guests from the 2024 Healdsburg WFE – Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience – on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.
Dan has brought a cellar wine for tasting, a Sauvignon Blanc that Steve calls “spectacular.” It’s a 2018 Benziger Estate Paradiso de Maria. Dan has been holding it for five years.
Steve Dveris is back, to describe the Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience. And Baran Ziegler is here, he has Valkyrie Selections and Marine Layer Wines.
The 2024 Healdsburg WFE is a four-day event, between May 16-19, 2024. It is the favorite wine event on the calendar for many people who have attended. This is its third annual edition. There are still tickets available for the big tasting event on May 18 featuring 125 wineries and 30 chefs, plus beverages galore. Wine Enthusiast magazine voted the HWFE as one of the 10 best wine events in the country. That’s a great achievement for the event which is only on its third annual edition.
Baran worked in wine retail in college and has been in the industry for 25 years. His company Valkyrie Selections is an importer of wines from Spain and France. His first company was Banshee wines, which he started 20 years ago. Marine Layer is the name of his current winery. The weather in the western part of Sonoma County has a strong marine influence, which makes the area perfect for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Marine Layer tasting room is in downtown Healdsburg.
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Valkyrie SelectionsAmong the wines that Valkyrie Selections imports is an English producer of sparkling wine. On the southern coast, the chalky soils are the same soil formation present across the Channel in Champagne, France. Climate change has warmed England by 5-6 degrees which is enough to allow grapes to grow. 20-30 years ago it wasn’t possible. Valkyrie Selections imports 212 wines from 42 growers in Spain. They sell almost 500 wines, as a company.
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Most of their wine is sold direct to consumer on their website. In the future, some store distribution is a goal. They have a 3000-square-foot tasting room.
William Weese, Merriam Vineyards winemaker, is our guest with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. Melissa Galliani, GM of Wine Country Radio is also in the studio. The last time William Weese was on CWC was this episode on March 15, 2023. Today he has brought a Cabernet Franc, a Merlot and a Chardonnay.
The Merriam family started with one vineyard called Windacre in 1998 that produced Merlot. They built a winery and planted more vineyards in 2008 with Cabernet Franc and Malbec and Merlot, in their present location off East Side Road, directly below Shone Farm.
Dan says the Merriam project has been under the radar but it has become one of the most beautiful wineries in Sonoma County. They have been certified organic in the vineyard for many years and and now also the winery, recently.
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The Cabernet Franc is “spectacular” says Dan. In the Russian River AVA Pinot Noir is dominant but Cabernet Franc and Merlot deserve more attention. They are open daily from 10 to 5. Reservations are encouraged but not required. They have all kinds of tastings and tours.
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William Weese, Merriam Vineyards winemaker learned winemaking by working in New Zealand, France, Chile and Napa Valley, after some study at Cal State at Chico and at UC Davis.
The Sonoma County Barrel AuctionDan Berger and William were at the Sonoma County Barrel Auction today where the variety of production in Sonoma County was on display. Dan notices that a lot of the buyers here are people who want a personal affiliation with the winery. It is also a great place to get to know other wineries and winemakers. There are people who know wine who appreciate special products.
They pour the 2021 Cabernet Franc, one of their favorites that comes from a small block in the vineyard. It is a slow-ripening grape so they let it hang for a long time. It is smooth and silky. It has some of the personality of Cabernet Sauvignon, but more floral and less astringent.
Dan Berger and Don Chigazola.
Don Chigazola has brought wines from Colle Ciocco winery run by the Spacchetti family in Italy, to taste on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Chigazola Merchants is Don’s company. a micro-importer of fine wines from small producers in Italy. The Spacchetti family are new suppliers to Don’s import business.
Don has been on CWC several times before, the last time was this episode in November of 2023, with wines from the Friuli region in northeastern Italy.
Don has told his story on the show several times before and again for today’s audience. He started his business about 12 years ago. He and his wife Debbie and his son Tony drive around the provinces in Italy to visit small local producers. They are farmers who have been making wine for generations. They choose the best ones to import for distribution to their private wine club members and to some restaurants and wine shops in the local area.
The Chigazola Merchants MethodDon’s favorite way of finding wine is to go to the center of town and ask the men assembled in the square who makes the best wine locally. In this case he found the Spacchetti family in the town of Montefalco, in the Umbria region. They tasted their wines at the Vinitaly show in Verona and now they have their first delivery. But first, they visited the 40-acre vineyard located just outside the old stone walls of Montefalco, to meet the family and walk the vineyard. Today Chigazola Merchants imports wine from 13 different families in 12 regions.
Colle Ciocco means “Cho-ko” HillColle Ciocco is the name of the Spacchetti family winery. Pronounced “coll-eh CHOE-koe” it means “Ciocco Hill” in Italian.
The first wine they taste is a red, a 2022 Colle Ciocco Grechetto, made of 85% Grechetto grapes, plus 15% Viogner in the blend. That blend makes it smoother. Dan has noticed that the wines from this region have improved a lot in the last few decades.
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Next they taste a classic Umbrian red blend Montefalco Rosso, 70% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 15% Sagrantino. This is a 2019 and is their current release. “It has massive amounts of fruit,” says Dan. It has good structure but it’s light. Aged one year in oak and two years in the bottle before it is released. It has the structure of a Pinot Noir but not the flavor.
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The Sagrantino is big like a Barolo from Piemonte, but it is only grown in Umbria. The 2018 is the current release and it is till a baby. It is such a tannic varietal that it is not even approachable for the first six years. It can hold up 10 years in the bottle.
Finally, the Trebbiano, is a white wine that is delightful and does not remind you of Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, the two
Dan Berger and Alan Baker
The co-founder of Cartograph Wines, Alan Baker, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He has been on CWC four previous times, the last time was this episode recorded on November 23. 2022. In each of his appearances we hear how he came to California from Minnesota and used to work in radio.
Dan Berger brought a 2016 MacRostie Chardonnay, from Wildcat Mountain, one of the eastern areas of Sonoma Coast. Dan declares, “These wines are really bullet-proof for several years,” meaning it’s delicious and has good structure.
Alan Baker and Serena Lourie founded Cartograph in Healdsburg in 2009. Read their story on this page of the Cartograph Wines website.
Alan Baker used to work in public radio, in Minnesota. He grew up in Iowa, majored in music in college and worked as a recording engineer and producer. In 2005 he moved to Healdsburg and “started knocking on doors.” His partner Serena was an adolescent psych nurse, then went into program design and then into venture capital. They met making wine at Crush Pad.
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Cartograph Wines has a tasting room in downtown Healdsburg. That’s where AV Films is holding its festival. There is a lot to do and see in Healdsburg.
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They taste the Cartograph 2023 Rosé, which has a salmon color, rather than pink, and has a lively finish. After that they taste a Riesling.
Friday August 9, 2024 there will be a special anniversary edition of California Wine Country for the 16th anniversary of The Drive. Save the date, location to be announced soon.
Dan and Doug
Breggo Cellars and Lichen Estate owner Doug Stewart joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country.
Breggo means ‘sheep’ in Boontling, probably derived from the Spanish word borego. Here is another Mendocino County wine with a Boontling name. It is like Dan Berger’s brand name of his new Riesling production. That is called Bahl Fratty, which is Boontling for “good wine.”
Doug Stewart is also the head of the Anderson Valley Winegrowers. They are promoting the Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival, May 17-19. Get your tickets early!
Doug has brought several wines from Breggo Cellars and his other label, Lichen Estate. They are tasting a sparkling wine, a Lichen 2015 Blanc de Gris, made of Pinot Gris, which is fruity but with none of Pinot Gris’s usual aftertaste. Dan notices that it is barely into its prime and is really delicious.
Breggo Cellars is located up in Mendocino County. You have to take Highway 128 which is one of the most beautiful roads in the state of California. Dan Berger explains how Anderson Valley is an ideal place to grow cool-climate varieties of wine grapes, and Pinot Noir is the big one. There is a lot of excellent Pinot Noir coming from there and because the region is not as well known. There are wines selling for about $30 which are just like other wines that cost twice as much.
Pinot Noir and Gewurtztraminer like the cold.Doug explains that Pinot Noir was the only grape that would ripen, on the valley floor. There are Gewurtztraminer vineyards planted there because conditions are ideal. As they are tasting one, Dan “Lay It Down” Berger says that it will be better with time in the bottle, big surprise.
Doug talks a little about how they are also working to revive the salmon population in the local rivers.
They are open 11am to 4pm. Dan recommends taking an extra day, and to stay overnight, because it is so remote. There is a limited number of restaurants but they are excellent. There is a wine shop called Disco Ranch there too.
May 17-19 is the Pinot Festival. Tickets are going fast, so check asap before it sells out. Doug has also brought a 2021 Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley, grown in Farrington Vineyard, called Fathers and Daughters. Dan suggests decanting it for a whole day. Doug tells about how the quality of Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs has improved in the last 20 years.
Miro Cellars owner and winemaer Miro Tcholakov joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. Miro was born and raised in northern Bulgaria. His grandfather made the family supply of wine and Miro was with him making wine since he was six years old. He came to the US in June of 1990, and has been making wine since then, having worked for Dry Creek Vineyards for about nine years then he moved to Trentadue Wines in 1999, and he is still there. He started Miro Cellars in 2001. Miro is a frequent guest on California Wine Country, his last appearance was this show of August 17, 2022.
Geyserville, where Trentadue is located, was not a place that was recognized much for wine. As the industry got more oriented to varietal wines instead of blended wines, Trentadue and its region got more recognition.
Miro Cellars is Miro’s personal project. When he had people offering to invest in his company, his wife advised him to keep it simple and he is still having fun, without debt.
Bulgarian Wine dot com is a site that brings Bulgarian wines to retail buyers in the US. Miro acquired it and his wife runs that part of the business.
Eastern Europe has lots of grape vines planted, Dan mentions Romania, Bulgaria and Moldova. In 1987 Bulgaria had more plantings of Cabernet and Merlot than California. In 1990 Dan visited Slovenia for an international competition there. The region around Maribor has a lot of wine production and the wines are really good. After Bulgaria joined the European Union, the EU made a lot of investment into the wine business.
La StoriaThey are tasting the first Chardonnay that Miro has ever made, a 2022. His first white wine was an Italian varietal called Ribolla Gialla, which is delicious but unknown so people didn’t buy it. It won Best of Class last year at Sonoma County Harvest Fest. He only made 10 barrels. Dan describes it as having strong tropical fruit and suggests it could accompany rich seafoods.
They are tasting a Trentadue wine called La Storia. This one is a Super Tuscan style, made with Sangiovese blended with Merlot and Montepulciano. It is an unusual blend that is listed on the label. 47% Sangiovese, 31% Merlot and 22% Montepulciano. Miro used a little Merlot to soften the two Italian varietals. It takes a winemaker willing to take risks, to produce a wine like this.
James Byus III, owner of Vine Burgers, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger in the studio on California Wine Country today.
Before we talk to James, Dan Berger has brought a 2013 Sauvignon Blanc from his extensive cellar. It’s a bit old for a Sauvignon Blanc but it is “tasty, interesting,” says Dan. On Monday, Dan will begin selling his own Bahl Fratty Riesling, online at the website only. There are 95 cases and bottles are priced at $38.
James Byus III from Vine Burgers is in today, with hamburgers to pair with wine and craft beer. He had a lot of restaurant experience and he thought there was a place for “premium” hamburgers. He opened Vine Burgers in March of 2022. They use all fresh local ingredients. All the vegetables are fresh. They do use fresh Grana Padano cheese (from northern Italy) on the Caesar Salad. The beef that they use is from a local producer, 100% grass fed, sustainably farmed, a third generation farmer.
“We slice every single pickle on your burger.” James Byus III
A Burger & a Glass of WineNaturally, James has brought some burgers to the show and first is the basic beef burger. They start with a 6-ounce patty, spiced inside and out, and cook it mid-rare-to-medium. This one is a cheeseburger with white cheddar. There are sauces, a creamy avocado, homemade chipotle barbeque sauce and chipotle aioli. With this they are tasting a white wine blend, made by Sans Liege in Paso Robles. It is mostly Viognier with other blending grapes. James finds obscure wineries with delicious wine that he puts on the wine list at Vine Burgers. He has also brought a Red Car Chard.
James describes his wine list. They have a house red and white, about 6 other reds and whites, plus a port, a reserve, a sparkling, a sweet Riesling. The wine list evolves from time to time with new entries. There is no corkage fee and these two facts make Vine Burgers a haven for wine lovers.
Dan Berger is very enthusiastic about the Vine Berger wine program. The place is unique in its evolving wine list and superb quality food. Dan digs the effect on the local culture since it shows great wine to the average diner.
Dan and Raghni.
Raghni Naidu of Naidu Wines is back as our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. She was on CWC once before, on this episode of August 25, 2021, with Harry Duke sitting in for Steve Jaxon that day.
Her story begins in India where she was born and raised. Her mother was always searching for interesting flavors in the kitchen and brought Raghni up to appreciate fine flavors. When she travelled overseas, she brought back recipe books and seeds that she planted in their kitchen garden. She moved to Melbourne, Australia to attend university. She already had some family in that city and her father was doing some business there. There she learned of many wonderful cuisines and she also met her husband there. They married and moved to the Bay Area in 2006 where she and her husband enjoyed the local food and wine culture.
After a vacation in Provence, they started searching for a place to start the winery. She purchased the vineyard in 2018 and began making wine and offering hospitality in the large house on the property. She feels a sense of responsibility to focus on the highest quality of production.
Dan Berger and Steve Jaxon both notice the excellent quality in the 2022 Chardonnay that they are tasting. Dan notices the great acidity “the secret weapon of all these good wines” and the lower alcohol, having been perfectly harvested.
Pinot Noir: It’s the Loir!They had Pinot Noir on the property when they purchased it, but they also have begun making other varietals. (Steve reminds us that by law, if you’re growing grapes in Sonoma County you must make Pinot Noir.) They have done Viognier, Grenache Blanc and Cabernet Franc. Dan appreciates the structure and balance in these wines.
They work with winemaker Matt Duffy who shares their convictions about making wines of the highest quality. Dan remembers someone saying that they best fertilizer for a vineyard is the footprints of the winemaker on the soil. Matt Duffy knows the vines and the ups and downs of the soil. Once the wine is in the house, half the work has already been done. There is no conflict between growing and production when the same winemaker is working on both aspects. It is Raghni’s leadership that holds it all together, from the vineyard through production and all the way down to other issues like bottles and labels.
The Naidu Wines HouseThe house on the Naidu Wines property is a beautiful family home with four bedrooms and luxurious decor. It is available
Guests who book a stay at the estate may enjoy the vineyard environment with a unique opportunity to get personal with the wines by experiencing the terroir directly. It is a fully remodeled home equipped with modern furnishings & contemporary fixtures, located on a knoll in the tranquil rolling hills of Sonoma Coast, with stunning vistas all around at all times of day.
Dan Berger and Clark Smith.
Clark Smith returns to California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today, to talk about pairing wine with music and other vinous subjects. His last episode was this one on December 8, 2021. He talked about his book on pairing wine with music. His website, called Who Is Clark Smith dot com, explains all about his consulting practice and his writing. His other website, called WineSmith Wines dot com, is all about his winemaking, including his use of many unusual grapes and winemaking techniques. Finally, Clark’s website about wine and music is called Pairing Wine and Music dot com.
Clark Smith returns to California Wine Country today for the sixth time. He was actually our guest seven years ago, on the first podcast edition of CWC with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, here on March 15, 2017. To celebrate the 2017 start date, Dan Berger has chosen a 2017 bottle from his personal cellar, to open and taste on today’s show. It is a 2017 Zinfandel from Ridge Vineyards.
It all started with Mateus RoséWhen Clark Smith came to California, there were only about 250 wineries in the United States. The average alcohol of a California wine in the 1960s was 18.5%, but by 1970 the average had dropped to 11%. “Everyone wanted to make Blue Nun knock-offs.” Steve Jaxon’s first experiene with wine was Mateus Rosé. (They had a catchy jingle on their radio and TV ads.) Clark admits that half of the wines he sold in the 1970s were “crap” but “we have cleaned up our act” since then.
Mateus Rosé TV Ad, 1972https://calwinecountry.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/Mateus-Rose-Wine-Commercial-1972.mp3They are able to pair a song with a wine. This dark angry music from the Doors matches the dark angry 2013 Cabernet. The opposite of that music would be Beer Barrel Polka, which played against the same wine, ruins the wine. “Wine is liquid music,” says Clark. He and his colleague Don Blackburn were consulting to Benziger in the 1990s. Originally, it was Don that demonstrated the pairing of music and wine to Clark.
They are tasting a wine made with a grape called Norton, which was a native American grape, not a European strain. Doctor Norton discovered it in the 1800s and he gave his name to the grape. It is popular in Missouri and Virginia, where it grows. They will taste this wine against the Bing Crosby song, Moonlight Becomes You.
Winesmith makes wine from about 12 different vineyards in California and one in Kansas City. Clark coaches about another 120 wineries spread out all over the world.
Clark and Dan were both involved in the website Appellation America which was an attempt to produce a complete catalog of American wine production. The website is still in existence, “on life support” as Clark describes. it.
Mike Lucia from Cole Ranch in Mendocino County is here on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, on a special Monday edition.
His family owns the ranch and they made their first wine in November of 2019. They have been converting a lot of their acreage to alpine varieties and have been selling fruit and making wine since then. John Cole, the vineyard’s namesake, passed away last year. He started a ranch that was going to be a cattle ranch, but he slowly started planting varieties that he liked, which were Cabernet, Merlot and Riesling. In 1984 he petitioned for Cole Ranch to become an AVA and he got it.
Dan tells about how hard it is to farm this land, which is not easy work. They have started with rootstock and irrigation systems, doing it all organically. You start with rootstock and then you can graft a varietal onto the rootstock.
Cole Ranch, the Bahl Fratty SourceThis is where Dan Berger got his Riesling fruit for his Bahl Fratty Riesling. It is just barely ready to be released. A friend of Dan’s who is a German Riesling expert said he would buy some now and put it in his cellar for about three years. Dan knew how good this Riesling fruit was and he wanted it. So in 2022 finally Mike was able to procure a ton of fruit for Dan, for Bahl Fratty. Rootdown Wine is the name of Mike Lucia’s own label.
Dan describes the aromatics as typical of Cole Ranch. In Dan’s opinion, this is the best Riesling vineyard in the US. The terroir shows up in the aromatics of the wine. Dan’s wine has zero sugar, and Mike’s has only a little. Both will age very well, even if most people think of buying Riesling and drinking it right away. With these wines, they are showing people what can happen with aged, vintaged Riesling. Dan’s favorite Rieslings in his personal cellar are the 2001s and 2002s.
For the rest of the episode, Dan and Mike delve deeply into the whole subject of Riesling, Cole Ranch and making unusual wines. (Mike Lucia photo by Bonafide Productions, from the Cole Ranch website.)
Dan and Theresa
Theresa Heredia, winemaker, Gary Farrell Winery is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, with two Chardonnays and a Pinot Noir to taste and discuss. She has been on the show a few times and the last time was this episode from May 19, 2021.
Dan’s cellar wine is a German Pinot Gris that he has just bought, a 2020 Kracher Pinot Gris. He expected it to taste like Pinot Gris but it reminds everyone more of an unoaked Chardonnay. It’s a surprising wine, rich and oily in the mid-palette, but finishes dry. It has no oak either.
Theresa has been at Gary Farrell winery for almost 12 years now. Gary Farrell started the winery in 1982 with a Pinot Noir made of fruit from Rocchioli vineyard. It was one of the first great Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs. He sold the winery in 2004 and retired.
Gary Farrell did not study winemaking. Instead, he got a job as a handyman at Davis Bynum and learned about wine there. He became the assistant winemaker to Hampton Bynum and in 1978, Davis offered Gary to make a small batch of Pinot Noir. Dan says that it was exactly what Davis had always wanted to do. Theresa had a 1988 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir that was still lively.
Theresa has brought three wines today, the current selections which are available at the tasting room. There are two opposite types of Chardonnay, and one Pinot Noir.
Jeff Mangahas
Jeff Mangahas, winemaker, actually VP Director of Winemaking at Williams Selyem, joins Steve Jaxon in the studio for California Wine Country. Dan Berger is away today. His last time on this show was this episode of October 6, 2021.
Williams Selyem is one of the most illustrious wineries in Sonoma County. This year will be their 44th vintage, specializing in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The partners, Burt Williams and Ed Selyem started the winery in a garage in the town of Fulton.*
They made a Pinot Noir in 1985 from grapes grown on the Rocchioli vineyard, and that won awards and recognition. It also started to put Russian River Valley on the map for Pinot Noir. They still source from Rocchioli, but they make 25 different Pinot Noirs, all different.
Joe Castro is also in the studio, staying over from the previous segment, where he brought some victuals from his restaurant, The Bird.
They taste the 2022 Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay. The vineyard is located at the top of the hill, above the town of Occidental, in western Sonoma County. It is a young wine and is pretty good now, but will do very well with 5 to 7 years of aging.
Jeff started his professional career as a scientist with a degree in Molecular Biology, then worked in medical research. Wine started as a hobby and became a second career. He got a Master’s degree at UC Davis then got some jobs with some great producers in Sonoma County including Dan Goldberg, from 2001 to 2005. In 2006 he became the winemaker at Hartford family winery and that led to the next step at Williams Selyem in 2011. He started working there with Bob Cabral, and he later took the reins himself. This year will be his 24th vintage in the Russian River Valley.
“I live a dream… making these historic wines from this historic brand. (…) It’s an honor to make these wines.”
* Fulton, the gateway to Windsor.
Kara and Daryl Groom with Melissa Galliani, Wine Country Radio
Kara Groom of Ra Ra Wine Co. and her father Daryl Groom of Groom Wines join Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today.
Daryl Groom was born in Australia, where he started his wine career. He always wanted to be a winemaker. When he was 17 he went Roseworthy Academy, to the agricultural college in Australia and “sort of never looked back.” He got the job as senior white winemaker after one year, then the biggest winery in Australia, Penfolds, bought his winery and he became the head white winemaker. Then by the age of 25 he got the job as head winemaker also for red wines.
In 1989 Penfold acquired a 50% share in Geyser Peak Wine, so he came to California on a two year contract. 34 years later he is still here. His daughter Kara Groom is also a wine maker and she is also here today. She wanted to visit Australia and her father suggested she work on a harvest down under. So in the next four years she worked six harvests in both northern and southern hemispheres.
Ra Ra Wine Co. is Kara’s wine company. Ra or Ra Ra is her nickname. She wanted to make a Rosé that was “fun and delicious” and to call it Ra Ra, so that’s what she has done.
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Her website is karamariewines.com. Daryl’s other children have careers in fields other than wine.
Dan Berger is here today, despite his voice being afflicted by the common cold. He sounds gravelly and rough, like the kind of soil that produces wines of distinction. Today he has brought a 2008 Chardonnay from Greg La Follette’s GLF brand, from his cellar, for tasting.
Ra Ra wines are all unoaked, even her red wines, because she wants to let the fruit shine. She picks at lower alcohol levels and bottles the wine early, to capture the fruit profile. She has brought a Dry Riesling, a Melon de Borgogne and a Rosé of Grenache, Ra Ra Rosé.
Dan Berger first met Daryl Groom in the early ’90s and proclaimed him the Winemaker of the Year in 1991. Penfolds wanted him to go back to Australia after those first two years. But Dan Berger gave him a great review in the LA Times and made him winemaker of the year. That was the reason he stayed. If his wine was that good after two years, he had reason to keep at it.
Kara’s wines are available at her website and also locally at Wilibees and at Bottle Barn. Dan Berger is impressed with the quality of her wines. People are looking for “known varietals in unknown places, or unknown varietals in known places,” she says, so her wines are designed to appeal to those desires.
They are pouring their 2023 Melon de Borgogne. It is called Muscadet in France, but we have to call it by the varietal name here in this country. Dan says the aromatics are “unbelievable.” This variety us often used as a blending grape, and rarely is it used by itself.
They also taste Kara’s Rosé of Grenache. Dan notices that it does have strong fruit flavors and it is true to the character of Grenache. Dan thinks that Grenache is the best red wine grape for making Rosé and Kara agrees. She calls it her flagship wine. She started her label with 100 cases of Rosé.
Dan, Greg and Shari.
Greg La Follette is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He is now the winemaker at Marchelle Wines. Greg has been on CWC several times before, the most recent is this episode from May 25, 2022 when he came in with his label at the time, GLF Wines. Greg’s special guest is Shari Gherman, co-founder & President of the American Fine Wine Competition.
Participation in their competition is by invitation, and they invited several of Greg’s wines. They have a vetting committee that only admits the best wines. His wines were “off the charts” and won lots of gold medals, scored over 90 points and collected some best of class awards.
This particular Chard is a 2021 and won a double gold and 95 points. Tritone means it comes from three counties (not the musical term) including Santa Barbara, Mendocino and Sonoma counties. Dan likes it because it has great flavor and also great acidity, to accompany food. That’s different than the Colmbard, which is more for drinking.
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The Vine WhispererGreg La Follette is the “vine whisperer” and the “cellar magician” as Steve says. He has worked 68 vintages on 5 continents, is a former seminarian and biochemist. Because of the research technique called HPLC that he was trained in, he found a job looking at antibiotics but when the Aids effort began his skills were needed there, for the next four years. He also worked with André Tchelistcheff, who resurrected California wine after Prohibition. Georges de la Tour had started Beaulieu and went to the Pasteur Institute in Paris and asked the director who the best student was. It was André so Georges hired André to come to California where he trained decades of winemakers like Greg.
This next wine is a Pinot Noir called Fourth Act. Greg’s winemaker Evan named is for Greg, as this is the fourth winery that he has owned. This is their blend wine. Dan says it smells exactly like a great Pinot Noir, lots of fruit flavors. Shari points out that it also got a double gold and 95 points at her competition. It also got one at Dan Berger’s International Competition last month, it got best of class and best of show.
Dan Berger
Dan Berger is the featured guest on his own show today, to tell Steve Jaxon about Bahl Fratty Riesling, his new wine label. When Dan Berger first discovered fine wine early in his career as a journalist, it was an encounter with Riesling that got his attention. Today we get to hear about his first attempt to make a Riesling to his own demanding standards, and Steve Jaxon gets to taste some of it.
Dan Berger is on CWC every week, but in these two special episodes last year, he was also the featured guest, telling his story to Steve Jaxon and co-host Harry Duke. The first week was about his career in journalism. The second week has the story about the corked Riesling and about Dan’s annual wine competition.
First they taste a 2018 Black Kite Chardonnay from Petaluma Gap. It has combined flavors of citrus fruit and cream. (Like a Creamsicle? asked the editor.) It spent about a year in the barrels.
Mendocino County Grown RieslingDan is a big fan of Mendocino county for the great fruit it produces. In 2005 a friend in New York said they can make Riesling better than we can in California. He thought of Cole Ranch in Mendocino County. The name Bahl Fratty is in Boontling, the local lingo of Booneville. It has an entire vocabulary of local terms. For example, the very first telephone installed in Booneville was put in by a man named Bucky Walter. So, the telephones were called a buckywalter. A cup of coffee is a Horn of Zeess. Anderson Valley Brewing Company has a beer called Bahl Hornin’.
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Dan likes his Rieslings dry and this may be the driest of all. Dan’s winemaker is Greg La Follette, who will be on CWC next week. It was not until 2022 that Dan could get access to some of the Cole Ranch fruit. This is his first production. Riesling takes the personality of where it grows, in the mountains or valleys.
Dan has brought some salmon and cream cheese to show how his Riesling goes perfectly with it. He plans to make another vintage, from two different sources this time, the one in Mendocino and another from Carneros. He will also make a little bit of Vermentino.
Carol Shelton
Today’s episode of California Wine Country features Carol Shelton with Harry Duke and Dan Berger. Steve Jaxon has the day off. Carol Shelton has been on California Wine Country several times, the last was this May 31, 2023 episode about her wines other than Zinfandel.
Carol Shelton Wines is on its 24th harvest and Carol has been in the business for 47 harvests. She was one of the first women to graduate in winemaking at UC Davis. She specializes in Zinfandel (she makes 7 or 8) and also in Rhone wines. Those include red and white blends and varietals like Viognier and Carignane. Their location is in a business park, not a bucolic rural vineyard.
Dan Berger tells how she was making wines for Windsor Vineyards which was under the radar but the wines were really distinctive. The varietal characteristics were so precisely defined and Dan noticed that the Windsor wines won a lot of awards. He investigated and discovered Carol was making all those wines. It took about two years of “slogging hard” to start her own brand but about the third year it took off like a rocket ship. Carol Shelton wines continue to collect awards and she is known as one of the most distinguished winemakers in the business.
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They taste the Coquille Blanc 2022 is a white blend, mostly from one vineyard in Paso Robles, which is one of the best spots in the US for Rhone grapes. Grenache Blanc is the basis, steely and minerally and green apple-y, and she adds Roussane which is “round” and “oily” adds “big beautiful soft delicious fruit. Then Viognier brings flowers and delicacy then Marssane, a little more almond and peach flavors. They barrel ferment it all in old French oak, which give more delicate flavors. It is almost Chardonnay-like in structure but the aromatics are more like a northern Rhone wine with all those Rhone varietals.
Paso RoblesPaso Robles produces some great white wines, in addition to the Zins and Cabs that it is known for. The white wines deserve more notice. The main issue right now is heat, they have to be careful to pick as soon as they can. Carol finds it is 5 to 10 degrees warmer at night. White grapes like a chance to rest at night, so Russian River delivers that.
Carol Shelton Wines’ Coquille Blanc is available at Bottle Barn, and also at Oliver’s. Her tasting room is open every day 11-4, in the far back of the Pine Creek business park, the same one where Moonlight Brewing is.
Wild Thing Rendez-Vous RoséThe next tasting is Wild Thing Rendez-Vous Rosé. The grapes are from Mendocino County. It’s primarily Carignane with a little Zin and Petit Syrah. The name Wild Thing is because the Zinfandel is the wild yeast fermentation. This is a darker Rosé. She does a delayed Sagnier, which is bleeding juice. Since all the flavor is in the skins, some Rosés are too pale and lack flavor. They wait three days to bleed off the juice for the Rosé and the rest goes into the Zin. Dan says this is really more like a very light red wine, but the overwhelming aromatics are white and pink in character. The same wine could go with either steak or seafood.
Next they taste Wild Thing Zinfandel, the new 2021 release. The 2020s are probably still in the stores. It is organically grown and uses the wild yeasts that live on the skins of the grapes. It has to be organic because fungicides would kill the natural yeast. These yeasts leave a little bit of glycerol, unfermented sugar, which adds roundness and creaminess to the flavor. It also has about 14 % Carignane and 9% Petit Syrah, and the rest is all Zinfandel. Dan Berger says it has, “blackberries up one side and down the other.”
Janice MacDonald is here to talk about Mendocino Sparkling and Oysters festival on California Wine Country with Harry Duke sitting in for Steve Jaxon, and of course with Dan Berger. Janice is the Festival and Events coordinator for Visit Mendocino.
Janice seems to enjoy what must be a pleasant and easy task, promoting and describing Mendocino County to people. In Mendocino there are cool climate wines growing in the Anderson Valley and the warmer climate wines in the eastern area of the 101 corridor. Mendocino is a slightly less travelled place, so there are not great crowds, but it is worth a visit because the views are beautiful and the wines are phenomenal.
Dan Berger started judging in the Mendocino wine competition in 1983. He has personally tasted the progress of Mendocino winemakers. Many years ago, their quality was “hit and miss” but today it is all first class. Their Cabernets have been great for the last five years and so have the Pinot Noirs, for the last ten years.
The Mendocino Sparkling Wine and Oysters FestivalThe Mendocino Sparkling Wine and Oysters Festival is Saturday, January 27. Destination Hopland is hosting the event in the caves at Saracina Winery. There will be about 18 wineries pouring sparkling wines, and some others pouring still whites. There will also be generous servings of Hog Island oysters and delicious tastings from Left Coast Seafood which will also pair perfectly. Tickets are available on EventBrite, at this link. Here is the Mendocino Winegrowers web page about the event.
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The climate and soils in Mendocino are ideal for sparkling wine so this event will show them all off. The caves were founded by John Fetzer, son of Barney Fetzer who founded Fetzer Vineyards.
In the studio they taste a Nelson Family Vineyards Brut Sparkling Wine, made from Chardonnay and carrying the North Coast appellation. Dan says it is beautiful with distinctive Chardonnay aromatics.
Five years ago there were two or three top quality sparkling wine producers in Mendocino, but now there are more like twenty. It has really taken off. The Crab Cake Cookoff is a benefit for the Mendocino Coast Clinics, and that is next weekend. Each winery is paired with a local chef and the guests will elect a people’s choice favorite. There is a live auction, too. February 3, from 11am-3pm, in Ft. Bragg.
Visit the website visitmendocino.com for all information about what’s going on in Mendocino County.
Dennis McCarter
Dennis McCarter, founder and winemaker of McCarter Cellars, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country.
To begin, Dennis talks about how he got started in wine, which happened when he joined his first wine club where they made some wine. He was born and raised in Santa Rosa and started making wine at home with five gallons of Barbera in his garage. Then he studied on his own and kept on making wine. Some of it was good enough to win some nice awards so he decided it was the time to go pro. 2022 is his inaugural vintage. They are working on getting a tasting room up and running.
Dennis reminds us that there is a 15% discount at McCarter Cellars dot com, using the Promo Code “KRUSH” on the website, for the rest of this month. (That promo code is close to the name of Wine Country Radio’s sister station KRSH, but with an extra U.)
Before starting McCarter Cellars, Dennis worked in the insurance business but after the fires he wanted a change. He took some classes at Santa Rosa Junior College, worked in wineries and kept making wine. He went from being an intern at Vinify to a full-time cellar worker. Dan Berger later suggests that Dennis has shown us an ideal pathway to becoming a great winemaker and these wines show why that is.
Girasole and Barra of Mendocino wines are available at Bottle Barn.
Tasting Diversity, February 25Dennis describes an event he is organizing with the Sonoma County Public Library Foundation. They raise money to build and rebuild libraries, “…like the one in Roseland.” On February 25 they are doing an event called Tasting Diversity, a celebration of black leaders in the wine industry. There will be five guests and Jay Jackson will be the moderator. (He is an actor on Parks and Recreation.) They want to show that anybody from any background can have access to the wine business. The event is February 25, and starts at 3:00 to 5:00 pm, at Fog Crest Vineyard, 7606 Occidental Road in Sebastopol. For more information and the complete roster of guest speakers, visit the Events page on the Sonoma County Public Library Foundation website.
McCarter Cellars TastingsThey taste a 2021 Chardonnay first, called Tritone Cuvée, made by Greg La Follette. This is a blend of three lots, done with light oak. Steve describes it as “a little tart.” It wouldn’t go with rich food, but some kind of white fish or clams would work. Next they will taste the Sauvignon Blanc, then the Rosé. The Sauvignon Blanc comes from Rogers Vineyard in Dry Creek, in the cooler part of the AVA.
The 2022 Pinot Noir has all the aromatics of the varietal. Dan notices raspberry, strawberry, a bit of blackberry. It is light and feathery, of the Burgundy style, that you don’t often see in darker California Pinot Noirs. Dennis describes how he did it. It is 25% whole cluster. When there are stems, it can take away some color, and bring some other aromatics, like green peppercorns. Dan says, “this is succulent and delicious.” The acidity is strong enough so chances are good that it will age well.
Photo credits: Dennis McCarter, from https://www.mccartercellars.com/about. Bottles lineup by Vicario Productions.
Martha Barra
Our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger is Martha Barra from Barra of Mendocino, the vineyards and winery. Martha was on CWC one other time, on this episode of November 18, 2020.
Barra of Mendocino is and always has been an organic farm, even before certifications existed. Their tasting room is located about 10 miles north of Ukiah. Redwood Valley Vineyards is the vineyard estate which is about 5 miles from there.
Dan mentions that too much fertility in the soil is not favorable to wine grapes. As you drive up the 101, past Hopland, there are fewer vineyards visible. When you finally get up to Ukiah, that is the last outpost for fine wine in California, and Barra is right in this zone. Then, there are just a few in Humboldt.
They open a bottle of Barra wine for tasting that Dan says is “fabulous…exotic.” It has won several gold medals and is Dan’s white wine of the year. This 2022 Pinot Blanc tastes as it is supposed to taste, made with no oak at all. It is delicious and ready to drink now, fresh.
Pinot BlancThere are 4 or 5 good Pinot Blancs around and they all come from Mendocino County. This is due to the soils, as Martha explains. They don’t get the fog influence in their weather. There is a 15 degree diurnal shift. Among all the tropical and fruity flavors that Dan discerns in this Pinot Blanc, he also detects a trace of Fenugreek. Martha mentions that this wine comes from two different clones. The older one was planted in 1962. Barra only started making wine in 1998 and Pinot Blanc in about 2000. Before that they were just growers. There are only 438 acres of Pinot Blanc and Barra has 14 of them.
Girasole and Barra of Mendocino wines are available at Bottle Barn.
Winesong is Dan’s favorite annual event. It is a wine festival held in Mendocino, a fund raiser for the local hospital. Barra of Mendocino is always there. Martha would give a bee to each guest as a symbol that Barra of Mendocino is an organic farm. Later she learned that many people would keep the bees as souvenirs.
Dan remembers the wine from Mendocino County as early as 1981. Back then the wine was not very good. The fruit had potential and eventually their winemaking skills caught up to the quality of the grapes they grow there. John Parducci was a winemaker who helped them make the leap in quality.
GirasoleThey also taste a Girasole wine. The name means “sunflower” in Italian. They have had to defend the trade mark Girasole from competitors who had been using the brand, which is exclusively Barra’s.
Dan reminds us that Barra wines and wines from Mendocino generally are less expensive than wines from other places, and give great value. There are only 88 wineries in Mendocino, which is not a lot. Many of them, like Barra, are small producers. A lot of the new wineries are Pinot Noir producers in Anderson Valley. Barra also makes Sangiovese and an excellent Petit Syrah.
Dan Berger and Barry Herbst.
Barry Herbst has brought Bottle Barn sparkling wines to California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. Barry was on CWC on this episode last July 5, with Rosé wines available at Bottle Barn. He was also on last January 12 for this episode about low-alcohol wines at Bottle Barn.
Dan Berger declares that Bottle Barn has a bigger selection at better prices than any store in the country and maybe the world.
ChampagneChampagne, as we know, is a protected name for French sparkling wine produced in that region. But great sparkling wines come from lots of other places and we will taste several today. Champagne is getting expensive compared to the others and there are great values from Spain, Italy and California.
The first tasting is a Cava from Catalunya, the region around Barcelona, Spain. It is a very cool region that helps the wine maintain acidity. About 50% of the blend is a rare grape called Xarello. The brand name is Mercat and it is at Bottle Barn for $13.99. Dan says that he has tasted over 30 years of sparkling wines production from this region and they have consistently improved.
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Next, we go to Sharffenberger, located in Mendocino County, California. This is a sparkling Rosé that is a blend of different vintages. Dan says that kind of blending explains why a lot of champagne is not vintage dated. A lot of sparkling wines and Champagnes that are not vintage dated will be blends of more than one vintage. The word Cuvée just means a blend. The single-vintage sparkling wines are a lot more expensive. For example, Dom Perignon sells for $259 at Bottle Barn.
FranciacortaThen they taste a wine from Franciacorta, in the province of Brescia, east of Milan in Lombardy. The ground it white and reflects light, so they grow the grapes up high where the reflections of light are not so strong. Franciacorta makes great sparkling wines, especially for the price.
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After that, they taste a French Champagne, La Salle. It is from a small family producer that is as good as the more expensive brands. Dan says that this one could benefit from 6 to 12 months in the bottle. In England they like to age their sparkling wines, where American people tend to drink theirs right away. $33.99 at Bottle Barn, and $50 at least anywhere else.
The Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs is the next tasting. It is a 2020, but since you harvest grapes for sparkling wine in August, that was before the fires that year. That is how this wine avoided fire damage. Dan Berger says it has Dom Perignon quality at a price you can afford.
Dan and Nick.
Nick Goldschmidt winemaker and owner of Goldschmidt Vineyards, returns to California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Nick has been on CWC a few times. The first in this series was this episode recorded on May 19, 2018. His most recent appearance was here on October 19. 2022. Nick was born in New Zealand but left the country as a young adult. “At the age of 20, I saw my destiny as somewhere other than New Zealand,” he explains.
Dan Berger usually brings a cellar wine for tasting, but since Nick has brought something better, they will taste that instead. It is his Boulder Bank Sauvignon Blanc. They are tasting it at room temperature, so it is not cold. It has grapefruit and lime flavors. It would go well with seafood and salads.
Three decades a winemaker.Nick has been a winemaker for more than three decades. He was a winemaker at Simi for 14 years. They are owned by Louis Vuitton and later by Constellation, who gave him the job of supervising still wine produced around the world. That is how Nick got to work with many iconic brands in many countries.
In 2008 he started his own winery. He also consults for 16 vineyards in 6 countries. He describes his passion as preserving small family-owned business. He likes helping them with a route to market and a sustainable business model.
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He lived in Chile during the dark times of the Pinochet dictatorship, and sometimes the government would cut off all the electrical power. So they learned how to make wine with no electricity, “unplugged.” He makes wine with his daughters and it was cool to have a project to work on together during her teen years.
They taste a Merlot, which Nick and Dan describe. They also will taste a Cabernet. Nick says that about 50% of what they produce is Cabernet, and another quarter is Sauvignon Blanc. Then they do some others, such as Merlot. In his own vineyard he has planted Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot and Malbec. He has also planted Zinfandel and Petit Syrah. They also make a Carignane and a Mourvedre, available only at the tasting room. Dan appreciates that Nick’s wines always have good structure and balance.
International Winemaker of the YearNick is very modest about having been named International Winemaker of the Year by Wine Enthusiast.
Dan and Greg.
Davis Bynum winemaker Greg Morthole is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Harry Duke, who is sitting in for Steve Jaxon. Katie Lalonde, Marketing and Communications Coordinator for Davis Bynum, is also in today.
Greg has been on CWC a few times, most recently on this episode of December 1, 2021.
Today Dan Berger has brought another wine from his vast collection, only this time it is not a cellar wine. Instead, it is a 2022 Chardonnay from Jesse’s Grove Winery in Lodi, made with no oak at all. Dan calls it a drink-it-now wine. They make Carignane, Sinsault, Zinfandel, Petit Syrah, a lot of red wine. The winemaker is Greg Burns and he is also the owner of the property. They sell grapes to winemakers all over California and are gaining a reputation for their own wines too.
Davis Bynum, wine pioneerFirst, Greg Morthole tells the story of Davis Bynum Winery, one of Sonoma County’s historic labels. Davis Bynum started making wine commercially in Albany, California, in 1965. Later he purchased a vineyard in Napa Valley and got to know all the original winemakers there. In late 1972 he tasted a bottle of. Russian River Valley Pinot Noir that reminded him of Burgundy. It made such an impression on him that he began making it. He purchased the River Bend property and made the first single vintage Pinot Noir from grapes grown by Joe Rocchioli. Dan says it is rare to have moved from Napa to Sonoma. Davis Bynum was the first to care about Pinot Noir from Russian River, which put him ahead of almost everyone else.
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Greg tells his story and background as a winemaker. He grew up in different places including Wyoming, where he attended college and took a degree in sciences. Art was also important to him. He got a job in a wine lab in Sonoma County. Then he got an opportunity to work for Rodney Strong in 2005, which was interesting because of the many varieties they produce. He got to know Davis Bynum when he was in his 80s. As Greg remembers him, Davis Bynum was inquisitive about both the art and the science in wine. He too likes leaning into both of those aspects of winemaking.
Katie LalondeWe also get to meet Katie Lalonde. She is the Marketing and Communication Coordinator for Davis Bynum . They have finished their 2023 program of events so they are planning the 2024 schedule now. The most recent event was a wine blending session with winemaker Greg Morthole. That was a lot of fun and they plan to do another one next year.
Greg also remembers how Davis Bynum loved balance in his wines and he strives for that too. The rest of this episode is a tasting and discussion of Greg’s two Chardonnays and two Pinot Noirs.
Dan and Carol.
California Wine Country welcomes Carol Shelton, famous for Wild Thing wines with wild yeast, and for much more. CWC has the day off today so for today’s podcast edition, this is a replay of the May 31, 2023 episode.
Carol Shelton makes varietals beside Zin, although she is known as the Queen of Zinfandel, and she is back on California Wine Country today, with Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke. She has been on California Wine Country several times, most recently on this episode of February 15, 2023.
Dan Berger introduces Carol Shelton by saying that every time she enters a competition she wins gold medals. She just entered the North of the Gate competition and won 6 double golds and best of classes, best of show red and Carol was named winemaker of the competition. Every grape entered has to have been grown north of the Golden Gate. Dan likes the competition because it’s a smaller more local competition and the judges all know each other.
What is Wild Thing?They are tasting Carol’s 2022 Wild Thing Chardonnay. Wild Thing was originally the name of her Zinfandel, because she adds no yeast to what is there naturally. Dan says that it has good structure due to its acidity. It has tropical fruit in the aroma, but it is tart and will go with food. Carol says that the fruit profile comes from some Viognier and some Roussanne which she blended in.
Next tasting is another gold medal, her signature wine called Wild Thing Zinfandel.
Mendocino has some of the oldest Zinfandel in California. In the Ukiah area, it is warm but not too hot. This wine has explosive blackberry fruit. It is blended with some Carignane and Petit Syrah that is also grown on the property.
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Carol came to California in high school and attended UC Davis. Her mother encouraged her to follow her interest in sciences and to look into food sciences. She took the Introduction to Wine class and found the connections to history, culture, food, sensory data, chemistry, microbiology were everything she loved. Eventually she got her degree in Fermentation Science in 1978. (The degree is called Enology today.)
Their tasting room is at 3354 Coffee Lane, they are in the back behind a few others, in the same business park with Moonlight Brewing. They are open daily from 11 am to 4 pm. Mention California Wine Country on The Drive to get a free tasting in Santa Rosa.
Barbera d’OakleyThey make Barbera d’Alba or Barbera d’Asti, different blends made in different towns in Piedmont. Barbera is a dry red wine popular in northern Italy. The vineyard is in Oakley, California, it is at the edge of the delta, at the San Joaquin River. The vines are over 100 years old. 75% Barbera, 10% Zin, 10% Merlot, and 5% Carignanne. It won a slew of medals. It has a dark color and vibrant aroma.
The next tasting is Coquille Rouge, which is all red Rhone varieties, grown at Oakley. Mourvedre, Grenache Noir and Petit Syrah, Carignane and Alicante Bouchet.
Foppiano GM Rob McNeill and winemaker Nova Perrill, are both guests on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.
Rob was on this CWC episode on August 29, 2018 and Nova has been on the show three other times, the most recent was this episode of October 26, 2022.
Nova became the Foppiano Vineyards winemaker in 2014 and Rob became GM in 2017. Rob had made sparkling wine and he wanted to make some at Foppiano, so he introduced Nova to it.
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay have taken over a lot of acreage, and Napa Valley wineries are buying Sonoma County Pinot Noir fruit. Since most of Russian River Valley is Pinot Noir, what is left of the Cabernet growing in Sonoma is very distinctive in Cab character. Growing it in warm climates sacrifices the aromatics that you get from cooler Napa valley. So these Cabs from Russian River have full Cabernet character. The average consumer has not tasted these aromatics in 20 years, because of the way Napa makes Cabernet today. This Russian River Cabernet has all the flavors of dried grass, green pepper and red pepper that Cab should always have.
Wine is beautifully simple. Wine will essentially make itself, under certain parameters. Sparkling winemaking is taking those parameters and making them as complicated as possible … and the product makes it worthwhile. -Nova Perrill.
Nova says that the varietal and the region are a team. Foppiano is located in northern tip of Russian River, near Alexander Valley and Dry Creek Valley, which give a warmer influence.
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Petit SyrahDan Berger says that Foppiano is most famous for Petit Syrah, which is their flagship wine. They are committed to consistency in its production. It is tannic but moderated by its fruity flavors. Dan has some Petit Syrahs that are 35 or 40 years old. Clark Smith did a survey of the oxygen appetite of all the grape varieties. He discovered that the grape variety with the greatest capacity for absorbing oxygen is Petit Syrah.
Dan Berger with Oded Shakked on CWC.
Oded Shakked returns to California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, with three wines from Longboard Vineyards, for tasting and discussion. In the first portion of today’s show, Dan Berger is on his way in, against inclement weather and traffic.
They get right into the history of the name and Oded admits that he would never have chosen this name if he had known it would be such an important brand so many years later. At the time, he was a professional winemaker, hired to make his bosses’ wine.
It’s true that he is a surfer, at the time he was a winemaker at J Vineyards and Winery. He wanted to make Syrah and they were not interested in that. So he exchanged a raise for production space and started making it on his own, in 1998. It remained a hobby winery until he went full time with it in 2005. Surfing brought me into winemaking, he says, because it took him to the western coast of Europe looking for waves. That is also where he discovered wine. He found his vocation and got a degree from UC Davis and then worked for a roster of top wineries before Longboard.
Oded likes the fact that Americans have created a food culture that was not around 40 years ago. That includes more and more people who will age red wines. He likes wine with “fuzzy edges” which reminds him of the sound of vinyl records as opposed to digital recording.
No more surfboards on the labels.They don’t use surfboards anymore on their labels, because he wants the focus to be on the wine, not the surf.
The tasting room is in Healdsburg, two blocks off the plaza, right by the railroad tracks. It is open daily 11am-6pm.
They are a small winery, under 5000 cases. Longboard is one of the few small independent labels that grows the grapes, makes the wine and sells it. He either grows the grapes or buys from trusted growers like Rochioli.
He makes a very traditional methode champenoise bubbly wine, which is sold out at the moment. As Dan Berger has just arrived late, they are tasting the Longboard Chardonnay, which Dan suggests would age well. His manipulation is minimal. Dan says that Oded’s strength is his connection to great growers. Another great advantage is that he had access to all the best equipment for making wine. They also taste Meant To Bee Pinot Noir, which comes from a vineyard where there is a beehive in an old walnut tree.
Don Chigazola
Don Chigazola has brought wines from Friuli today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Friuli is the region of Italy in the north-east, bordering on Slovenia. He has been on the show several times, most recently on this March 2022 episode all about wines from the Alto Adige region.
Don begins by retelling the story of how his company Chigazola Merchants works. He travels the back roads of Italy looking for small local producers of unique local wines. He tells about asking the local people who makes the best wine, then he follows the trail to find them. Once he finds the ones he wants to import, he begins the process which takes several months, for the wine to arrive. Don Chigazola really does have the coolest job in the world and it’s an inspiring story.
Today Don has brought three wines from the Traverso family vineyards in Friuli: Friulano, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio. The Traverso family was on CWC, the last time was this episode in May of 2019.
Friuli WinesThese wines come from the Traverso family vineyards in Friuli, which are located in the region called Colli Orientali. That means “Eastern Hills” in Italian. This hilly region is warm during the day and gets cold at night. The soil is gravelly and so the vines have to struggle and send down deep roots. These conditions favor the development of good acidity which characterizes Italian whites.
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The Friulano is an example of an Italian regional specialty. They also taste a Sauvignon Blanc which has a different character than the ones we are used to, from California or New Zealand. That is due to Friuli’s unique growing conditions.
There are 20 regions in Italy and each one famous for one, two or sometimes three major varietals that thrive there. There are 600 varietals grown in Italy, and over 100 kinds of white wine. They are all quite different than the same ol’ French varietals we are used to drinking in California, as these three wines demonstrate. Arneis is an example of a white wine from Piemonte that is delicious but simply now known in the US.
Don Chigazola explains that a lot of his wines are not famous outside of Italy. He enjoys having the role of a wine educator and a represenative of the families that make the wine he chooses to distribute. He takes care to send ancillary materials that come with the shipments which explain about the wines.
The third wine they taste is a Pinot Grigio. This is an Italian style, with a little bit of white wine tannin in the aftertaste. This varietal is the largest selling export product and not all of it is as good as this one.
Mike Carpenter, founder of The Redd Collection, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.
Before we hear about the Redd Collection, Dan Berger has brought a wine for tasting, but not his usual cellar wine. It is a Donnhoff Riesling from Germany that he purchased recently at Botte Barn. It begins a bit sweet but finished dry. Everyone likes it!.
Mike Carpenter explains that he is a wine retailer and he focusses on old and rare collectable wines, and some occasional discoveries, both domestic and imported. His store began in Los Angeles with ten pallets of wine from one client’s personal collection. The name is close to the original collector’s name and Mike named it the Redd Collection to keep some trace of its origin. It reminded him of the great single-owner sales at places like Christie’s and Sotheby’s.
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Dan Berger calls it a unique model in the wine business. A lot of people who start drinking common inexpensive wine may become curious about better wine, which is more expensive. It is then useful for a curator to find wines that are exciting and interesting and not necessarily extremely expensive. Today he brought some wines that “drink above their price point” which is like a fighter “punching above his weight.”
The first tasting is a 2018 Alma Fria Chardonnay. It is a West Sonoma Coast wine, from the new AVA that has distinct maritime growing conditions. Dan detects a faint tropical fruit aromatic, but what is so fascinating is that the wine shows its tropical and citrus notes over the oak. It’s rich but finishes with acidity. In some ways it resembles the Riesling that tasted earlier. It is a blend of some of the finest vineyards in the new West Sonoma Coast AVA.
For comparison, the Sonoma Coast AVA is 500,000 acres. The West Sonoma Coast AVA is 4,700 acres, with only 50 vineyards and 27 producer members, and three sub-regions. It is a narrow band along the coast, and only reached inland about 5-7 miles.
Mike Carpenter is also the wine director at Table Culture Provisions, a restaurant in Petaluma, where they serve this Alma Fria Chard. It is a neighborhood restaurant in downtown Petaluma that, “…walks the line between comfort food and haute cuisine.
Another wine is a 2017 Friulano from the Friuli region (north-east) in Italy. It is a white wine with well-developed aromatics that are not typical of young wines that have not had the opportunity to mature in the bottle.
Next is a 2021 Gros Ventre Pinot Noir, called “First Born” which is the best barrels put together from multiple vineyards. (Gros Ventre means “Big Belly” in French.) Dan Berger says this is worth aging in the cellar for six to eight years.
Dan Berger and Barry Herbst.
Barry Herbst is in the studio on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, with 2023 Harvest Fair winners at Bottle Barn. Dan Berger was also on this episode back on October 2, with a first report on this year’s Harvest Fair winners.
Barry Herbst says that the public tasting at Bottle Barn last Saturday was well-attended. Almost all the winning wines from the 2023 Harvest Fair are there, in the middle of the store. It will stay up on display through the end of the year, although some of the wines may sell out before then.
Instead of his usual cellar wine, Dan Berger has brought a bottle of wine that he has just purchased that comes from Victoria, Australia. The Australians are doing a big promotion to change Americans’ perception of Australian wine. Victoria is a cool region that grows a lot of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. This Little Yering Chardonnay is crisp and bright and sells for $18.
The problem for the Australian wines is that the low-cost Barefoot brand from Australia has miseducated the American public that Aussie wines should only sell for $8.
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A Rosé of AglianicoThey begin by tasting the La Certosa Rosé that won Best of Class was made from Aglianico grapes. It is an Italian red variety that makes red wine but that has almost no color. It makes a light colored Rosé too.
Next they taste the Best of Class Chardonnay, a 2022 from the Miro label, made by Miro Tcholokov, who appeared on California Wine Country on this episode recorded on September 2, 2020.
It’s a single vineyard Chardonnay that has a lot of fruit taste. Dan thinks it might take only about a year in the cellar. Miro is the winemaker at Trentadue Winery and he also produces some of his own labels. Dan says that Miro’s Chardonnay has a little bit of Burgundian character, in that they have the aftertaste of a European Chard, with its notable acidity.
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The next wine is a Grenache Blanc. Dan calls it “all-purpose” because the flavors are all about the fruit but it also has a nice minerality in its aftertaste. Grenache Blanc is only lightly planted in the US. Then finally they taste a Grenache Rouge. Barry discovered this producer because it won Best of Class Grenache in its price range. Alexander Valley, 2019. The tannins that it has are fruit tannins so they are softer. Barry compares it to a Spanish Grenache.
Dan Berger and Jordan Kunde
Jason Kunde from Kunde Family Winery joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger in the studio today on California Wine Country. Jason’s father Jeff was a guest on California Wine Country on this episode back on May 31, 2017.
Dan Berger has brought another bottle from his gigantic collection, but this time not from the cellar, because he has just bought it. It is a 2022 Riesling, from Donnhoff in Germany that has some residual sugar, but the wine is not sweet. It has that slate aroma with dried pear and other fruits that Dan likes in this wine. Riesling doesn’t take a lot of time in the bottle, necessarily, but if you lose some bottles in your cellar and let it age, Riesling can reward you with magnificent flavors. It comes from the Nahe region, which is a new Riesling production zone. It is available at Bottle Barn at a very favorable price.
One of the oldest vineyards in CaliforniaThere have been grapes on the property since the mid 1800s. The first vines that were identified were probably around 1850 and the first Cabernet produced anywhere in the United States that was recognized from a single property dates from 1877, says Dan. The Drummond family was the wealthiest family in the region and they produced the Dunfillan Cabernet. The movie Bottle Shock, about the 1976 Judgement of Paris, was filmed on the Dunfillan property, although the story takes place in France.
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Jason has brought a Chardonnay, which they all agree is “bright.” He also brought a reserve Chardonnay. The first is a 2021 Sonoma Valley Chardonnay. Served at room temperature this wine shows a beautiful expansive mid-palette. If chilled, it would have a different flavor.
The Kunde EstateThe Kunde property is a beautiful estate and Jason knows he is fortunate. He is happy now that his parents made him work all the time and learn each aspect of the operation. His house was 100 yards from the vineyard. He and his brother would play roller hockey in the wine cave. To play they would turn off all the power and the game was flashlight tag. The game was also to elude the staff who came to get them for making trouble.
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They did want each sibling to get some experience outside the family company. He worked for two wineries in Calistoga. When he came back, he had some experience to offer.
Dan describes the Kunde property, 750 contiguous acres of great looking vineyards, beautifully farmed. Dan notes that it is consistent from block to block. Dan’s compliment is that they are a family of farmers who later got into wine. They sell about 70% of their grapes on contract and they keep about 30% to make their own wine. Many of their wines are made in small lots and are only available in the tasting room. The black label 2021 Reserve Chardonnay that they are tasting is a good example of that.
Mark Beaman
Kenwood Vineyards winemaker Mark Beaman joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger in the studio today on California Wine Country. The last time Kenwood Vineyards was on CWC was this episode of July 19, 2018, with the previous winemaker Pat Henderson.
Dan Berger has brought another cellar wine today for tasting, a 2002 Riesling. It shows how Rieslings can age well. They are fresh and fruity when they are young but they also age very well and this wine is a good example of that.
Mark Beaman begins by telling the story of Kenwood Vineyards. There have been vines on the property since 1906. He describes how the Pastore family made wine there until 1970. The wine library at Kenwood goes back to the 1970s. The present owner, Pernod-Ricard, purchased the property in 2014.
Of course, Mark has brought a Chardonnay. They open a Six Ridges Chardonnay, from Russian River AVA. It is a late ripening Chardonnay location. The wine has “big mineral character” and “racy acidity.” The acidity is strong enough to make a rich mid-palette and a wine that will go well with food.
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The harvest this year seems late but Mark remembers other years beyond the last several years, with a similar timeline. This year reminds him of 2019 when he was picking Sonoma Valley Cabernet well into October It also reminds him of 2010.
From eastern Washington to Tanzania, Hawaii and Sonoma Co.Mark Beaman grew up in agriculture in southeastern Washington. They grew alfalfa and wheat and had cattle. He went to college up there and got a degree in Geology. He joined the Peace Corps and lived in East Africa, in Tanzania, for about two and a half years, in a small village. He learned to speak Swahili. He also got introduced to fermentation science there, when he knew someone who made mead. After he came back, he worked for Columbia Crest winery “low on the totem pole.” They moved him to California, to a facility in Hopland. He learned viticulture and got into the laboratory. Then he worked for Parducci wines, making organic, biodynamic and sustainable wines.
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After that, he decided it was time for another adventure, so he moved his young family to Hawaii where he made wine from both grapes and pineapple. He was there for close to three years. He enjoys the atmosphere of Sonoma County where there are a lot of other winemakers who share ideas and motivation. He liked it as a combination of the wildness of Mendocino and the pressures of Napa. He worked at Valley of the Moon winery, then Sebastiani, and now, since April, at Kenwood. He is also attracted to the great number of varietals grown in Sonoma County, since he loves to experiment.
Kenwood Vineyard is open seven days a week for tastings by reservation only, 10 am to 5 pm.
Dan Berger is in the studio today with Steve Jaxon on California Wine Country to talk about the Sonoma County Harvest Fair 2023 winners.
Dan Berger is in the studio today with Steve Jaxon on California Wine Country to talk about the Sonoma County Harvest Fair 2023 winners.
The winners have been announced at the Harvest Fair website and in the PD. Dan explains that it is a competition all for wines made from grapes grown in Sonoma County. It is also an opportunity to examine the differences present in the county’s different regions like Petaluma Gap.
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Family-Owned Winery WinnersSome family-owned wineries won big. Wilson Winery of Healdsburg won the red category and Fritz Underground Winery in Cloverdale has won in the white category. Clay Fritz who owns Fritz Underground Winery is the brother of Jay Fritz who owns Lynmar Estate. He was on this show the week before last. A 2021 Russian River Valley Chardonnay from Fritz winery was the big winner.
Wilson is on Dry Creek Road; their winemaker is Antoine Favero who makes intense and deeply flavored Zinfandels. It was a 2021 Zinfandel that won the red category. Dry Creek is cool enough to capture the black berry fruits but warm enough to produce some of the exotic notes.
2021 was a relatively warm year but not hot, which is ideal. 2021 was a very good vintage, says Dan, and the 2021 and 2022 are worth comparing to see the difference. Dan likes to buy a 2020 and a 2021 Pinot Gris from the same producer, to compare them.
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Healdsburg’s De La Montanya Vineyards & Winery won the Specialty category with its 2020 Twisted Jill Blanc de Blanc from Russian River Valley, made by winemaker Andrew Schwendeman.
Dan Berger also runs The Dan Berger International Wine Competition every year, and this will be his 42nd consecutive year, on December 8, this year. All of the judges in his competition are winemakers.
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Harvest Fair had 964 entries this year. The judges at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair like to award Zinfandel for excellence, because of its importance in the county’s overall wine production.
Dan Berger and Pete Soergel
Pete Soergel, winemaker for Lynmar Estate Wines, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today.
Dan Berger has brought another bottle of wine from his gigantic cellar. Recently he has brought in a lot of well-aged Sauvignon Blancs. But this is a 2019 white Pinot Noir from Aniello in the Patagonia region of Argentina. This wine is four and a half years old. It was made to be consumed earlier and is still good. To make white Pinot Noir, you get the juice before the red skins can give the juice color. It’s also reasonably priced at $15.
Lynmar Estate is a family owned winery located in Sebastopol in the Russian River AVA where the Goldridge soil is. Dan mentions that it is a very cool region and you have to plant the right variety for the right location. The family began with one parcel in 1980 and now has about 100 acres where they grow the grapes, make wine and live in Russian River AVA. The Lynmar website’s Vineyards page (please scroll all the way down) describes their “…full-time crew of benefitted employees that work year-round to cultivate each block’s individual growing cycle. This level of expertise has a direct impact on the quality of Lynmar wine, and our ability to produce a portfolio of unique and nuanced wines.”
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Pete Soergel grew up in Pittsburgh, PA on an apple farm and wanted to try making wine after getting a degree in Horticulture at Virginia Tech. He did his first internship in 2006 at Landmark vineyard. After that, he got a job at Kosta-Browne in Sebastopol in around 2007, which led him to Lynmar in 2012.
Burgundian Character in Russian River ValleyDan describes how the southern part of Russian River Valley seemed very cool for grapes, and it took some risk to plant Chardonnay and Pinot Noir which have done very well there. Other varieties like Syrah and Riesling may also do well there. As the climate gets warmer, you might have to adapt and plant other varietals that like a warmer climate.
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More wineries are putting vineyard names on bottles of Pinot Noir, says Dan. The AVA and the vineyard are both important.
Lynmar wines are primarily available through the wine club. They make about 12,000 cases per year and 90% goes to the wine club. They are also in a few local restaurants and have been in Bottle Barn occasionally. Their tasting room is open from Thursday to Monday, by appointment only for hosted tastings at 11am and 2 pm.
Mike Martini, winemaker at Taft Street Winery, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. His last time on the show was last year around this time, on this episode of August 24, 2022.
Taft Street is open Friday through Sunday 11:00 am to 4:30 pm. They are a relatively small operation so they made a decision not to run a big room, but guests are welcome and encouraged to bring a picnic and beverages and they are very dog-friendly.
Taft Street Winery also has bocce courts. Steve Jaxon remembers playing bocce with his family at his uncle’s house in the summer. The winery holds a bocce tournament with the Sonoma County Alliances Education Committee, to raise money to buy books for the schools.
The beauty of bocce as a game is it is something you can compete with and you never have to put down your wine glass. – Mike Martini.
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Dan Berger tells how Mike has started making a Beaujolais style wine in Sonoma County, with Pinot Noir grapes, instead of Gamay grapes. They make their Beaujolais the same way as in France. That means closing up the whole clusters before pressing, with carbon dioxide to keep any oxygen out, so it’s anaerobic. This starts a fermentation inside the berries, before the juice is pressed. It makes a very fruit-forward wine that is ready to drink early.
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Georges Duboeuf and BeaujolaisMike tells how the French wine merchant Georges Duboeuf (1933-2020) figured out ways to make Beaujolais Nouveau into a special event in France, by holding it until the release date and making its arrival in Paris on the third Thursday of November into a dramatic and newsworthy event. The release of Beaujolais Nouveau is still a big deal in France every November.
When Mike’s son took over the company three vintages ago, they decided to start making Beaujolais from Pinot Noir. They only make 56 cases, using the same Pinot Noir grapes as they use for the Rosé, because it has lower sugar and higher acidity. His goal is to sell it all by New Year’s Day. The grapes are coming into the winery on Monday. They will be making both the Rosé and the Beaujolais again this year.
Dennis Hill, co-founder of Langhart and Hill wines, joins Steve Jaxon on California Wine Country. Larry Van Aalst is in for Dan Berger, who is travelling this weekend. Larry has had a long career in wine, he was an educator and a Sommelier and worked in the university and junior college and with PBS, all related to wine. He even worked in the prune harvest back when that was the dominant fruit in Sonoma County.
This 2023 vintage is Dennis’ 51st as a professional winemaker. His first job in winemaking was working for the late Ed Seghesio. He grew up on his family’s property just south of Healdsburg, on the border between Dry Creek Valley and Russian River Valley AVAs. It was a prune and apple farm but in the 1970s they replaced most of the prunes and apples with wine grapes.
Rosés made of Bordeaux Grapes are GreatThey are tasting a Rosé made of Merlot, which Larry really likes. Dennis calls is “racy” and it has a deeper color than most Rosés these days. He wanted his to have a little more depth of flavor, so he leaves it on the skins and uses Merlot. Rosé is not just seasonal anymore,
They are also tasting a Chardonnay is about the flavors of the fruit, not the oak. It’s all older and neutral wood. It is complex and without any of that annoying buttery oaky flavors.
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These wines are available at Bottle Barn. They don’t have a tasting room and are just building their sales in the marketplace. They only make about 350-400 cases per year, mostly to restaurants and selected local retail, including Bottle Barn.
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They also make another line of wines called Rumplestiltskin, which is dedicated to unusual varieties not usually encountered. They make an orange wine and an Appassimento, and a Croatian variety called Dobricic.
The Appassimento is very interesting. It is a northern Italian style where they dry the grapes before pressing them, which makes a unique flavor. Amarone is the name of one kind of wine made this way.
Dan and Janice
Winesong, Mendocino’s unique celebration, is the subject today. On Friday, Sept. 1, 2023, Janice MacDonald visited California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, to talk about the 38th edition of Winesong for 2023, set to take place on Sept. 8 & 9, a week later. Unfortunately, due to a technical glitch, there we no recording made of that episode. The show notes below refer to that lost Sept. 1, 2023 show. But for the audio portion of this podcast episode, here is a repeat of the July 12, 2017 episode which is all about the then-upcoming 33rd edition of Winesong. FYI here is a link to that original episode, with its own show notes. The descriptions of the event and the location are as true as ever, and so is Dan Berger’s enthusiasm for the event. So please enjoy this encore presentation about Winesong.
Janice MacDonald from Winesong 2023 joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger in the studio for California Wine Country today. Winesong is an important annual fund raiser for the Mendocino Coast Health Care Foundation which operates the largest and best hospital in the area. . All the top wine producers are the really high w restaurants serving their iconic dishes
The event takes place in the Mendocino Coast Botanical Garden. It’s a large garden park with different vista everywhere you look.
Janice has brought wines illustrating the event. Handley Pinot Blanc is a white wine with a flavor that is not as rustic as Pinot Gris. Dan says it is beautifully structured and would hold up to seafood. This wine is about its fruit and tropical character. Handley Cellars is located in Anderson Valley
Each area of Winesong will have its own music. The big tent hosts a wine and art auction that raises money for the hospital.
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A Very Special Auction LotOne lot up for auction this year is a 30-year vertical of Joseph Phelps Insignia. The Joseph Phelps winery was producing blended red wines in the 1970s. In about ’85 they started Insignia. They are very expensive and hard to come by. This lot is from 1990 and you’ll never see a collection like this anywhere.
Fort Bragg is home of the Skunk Train that goes up into the redwoods. The Side Deal is a band from LA that will play there. Dan likes Winesong because you can plan 3 days including Sunday to visit wineries. You can find lodging up and down the coast. Dan says if you go once you will want to go again.
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This is a cool year so harvest won’t begin in full until about a week after wine song.
They are tasting a Foursight Pinot Noir from Foursight Wines, which is located in Booneville. Foursight Wines is a small producer in the town of Booneville. It is a stylish wine that has just enough oak to carry the fruit character. It is a 2020 and could handle about three more years but longer than that might not bring any particular benefit. Foursight is known for making wines of delicacy not power.
Dan Berger says the Mendocino Botanical Garden is an amazing place and is by itself worth the price of admission to Winesong.
Dan Barwick
Dan Barwick, Trecini Winery winemaker, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine C0untry, back on the air after summer vacation. Today California Wine Country returns to live radio on a new day, Friday, and on our new station, Wine Country Radio 95.5 FM in Sonoma County.
The Drive with Steve Jaxon is back on the air, weekdays from 3:00-6:00 PM on Wine Country Radio 95.5 FM and also streaming live online at TheDrive955.com.
Dan Barwick, winemaker at Trecini Wines, has been a guest on California Wine Country an average of once a year since we began this podcast in 2017. His first episode in the podcast series is from May 17, 2017. It’s an interesting episode for many reasons. For one, Dan Berger mentions that he was starting to hear more and more about Rosé wines. Something was starting to happen there that kept on going. Also, Dan Barwick was the winemaker at Paradise Ridge at the time and talks about that. This July 29, 2020 episode is also interesting since he talks about how Paradise Ridge had rebuilt since the fires that struck Sonoma County in October 2018. His last time on CWC was November 16, 2022, after he had been at Trecini for some time.
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They begin by tasting a wine that comes from Dan Berger’s enormous personal cellar. This is a 2016 Frog’s Leap Sauvignon Blanc. Most people drink their Sauvignon Blanc quickly so they rarely get a chance to age. This is seven years old and is delicious. Dan says that SV is interesting because when it gets a chance to age, it is great. This is his last bottle of the 2016 but he still has one of the 2017.
Dan Barwick made his first wine for Trecini in 1999. He has brought a Grenache Blanc from Rockpile vineyard which reminds him of some fruit he used twenty years ago. Grenache Blanc is a white grape from the Rhone region of France.
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Dan Barwick came from England in 1991 for a harvest, when he was working in wine sales. One harvest just led to another and another. Previously he lived in France, South Africa and later in Australia. He did a harvest in the Barossa Valley, in south Australia. Just like Steve Jaxon, once he came to Sonoma County for work, he decided to stay.
The Trecini tasting room is no longer open. (The website may need to be updated). One of the co-founders passed away last year and they are keeping the winery going.
Harvest is approaching and both Dans report that expectations are high for this year. It resembles 2011, which was great. It may be average for quantity. Dan Berger says that the acidity in the vineyards is good this year which means this is a promising year.
Dan Berger writes a weekly column about wine and recently he has written some articles looking back at what he wrote many years ago.
The next wine tasted is a 2022 Russian River Chardonnay, a Trecini pre-release. Dan Berger wrote an article about balance in Chardonnay, and Dan Barwick has brought this particular wine to reply to that. No malolactic, fermented in large used French barrels. He has been trying to make a Chardonnay with this much balance for twenty years. There are grapes from two different vineyards in it.
Clark Smith joins Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke on California Wine Country to discuss his book on pairing wine with music. This episode was originally recorded December 8, 2021.
This is the last week of Summer vacation for The Drive and California Wine Country. Next week, starting Monday August 21, The Drive returns to the airwaves and California Wine Country moves to Fridays. Our next podcast episode and the first new live show of the Fall season will be Friday, August 25.
Clark Smith joins Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke on California Wine Country to discuss his book on pairing wine with music. He has published a book called A Practical Guide to Pairing Wine and Music. Clark has been on California Wine Country a few times before, including this most recent episode on September 15 of 2021. Today Clark Smith will tell about his book and his website dedicated to pairing wine with music.
But before we begin with Clark, we will taste a bottle from Dan Berger’s extensive personal cellar. This is a 2004 Peter Lehman Shiraz from Australia. It is a bit rich and has some plum flavors. At 17 years old and is past its prime as it was lost in the cellar and Dan forgot about it.
Clark Smith is back with us on California Wine Country today. He is a consultant to about 120 wineries, after a whole career training wine makers. European wines are his favorites, when they are balanced and age well. He calls that “Euro-centric wines.” He likes to say that he makes American “forgeries” of European styles. Today we will taste his Cabernet Franc which is a good example of that. He also likes to use an American grape called Norton.
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Clark Smith has published a book on this subject, called A Practical Guide to Pairing Wine and Music, which is available as a Kindle book on amazon, at that link. Wines are like music. They are liquid music. They can carry emotion. Wines are happy and sad too. For example: If you want to make a Cabernet Sauvignon taste terrible, play a polka. Cabernets are dark and angry and if you play happy music around it, it will taste awful.
Clark Smith credits Don Blackburn for coming up with this idea. Dan is a friend of Clark Smith and he didn’t like the Aroma Wheel approach as a framework for the flavors of wine. He wants to look at the whole wine. He did an experiment with about 100 people, and he gives people 3 wines, a Beaujolais Nouveau, a Pinot Noir from Burgundy and a big bad Cab. Then he played the following music:
- a Mozart divertimento, in the Classical style (late eighteenth century)
- a Franz Liszt piece for piano (mid-nineteenth century)
- Carl Orff's Carmina Burana, a heavy chanting and rhythmic D minor jam for chorus and orchestra (mid-twentieth century)
Then he asked people to match the wines to the music. If it had been random, the assignments would have been about evenly distributed among the wines. But people put the light frilly music with the Beaujolais and the Carmina Burana with the Cabernet.
That’s an intellectual exercise. But then, try playing the Carmina Burana with the Beaujolais, and it tasted horrible. What it means is that the feeling in the music and the wine can be aligned, or misaligned, and you can sense that. For the rest of this very interesting episode, we hear music and taste wine and compare the sensations of the pairings.
Outside, a simple sign. Inside, wow!
This is the last week of Summer vacation for The Drive and California Wine Country. Next week, starting Monday August 21, The Drive returns to the airwaves and California Wine Country moves to Friays. Our next podcast episode and the first new live show of the Fall season will be Friday, August 25. This podcast episode is the last of our repeat series. It features Jason Schneider, Bottle Barn spirits chief and also the GM, along with Lauren Patz from Redwood Empire Whiskey. Cheers!
Jason Schneider, Bottle Barn Spirits chief, and Lauren Patz join Steve Jaxon, Harry Duke and Dan Berger today on California Wine Country. Lauren Patz runs Redwood Empire Whiskey and Jason is the GM of Bottle Barn, where he is also in charge of the Spirits section. He wants the shop to have all the kinds of spirits that people want in addition to wine. They have also expanded the website, even if they can only ship spirits within the state of California.
Redwood Empire Whiskey is part of a larger company called Purple Brands. They make Raeburn Chardonnay and Scattered Peaks wines. The distillery was started in 2013 and whiskey started going into barrels in 2015. They started releasing in 2019. Bottled in Bond For a whiskey to be labeled “Bottled in Bond” it has to come from a single distillery, a single distilling season, has to be at least 100 proof and be aged 4 years. It was the first consumer protection act in the US.
Dan Berger has brought a bottle of wine from his cellar, usually it’s a well-aged wine but this is a 2019 Kite Trail Chardonnay. Generous and soft with some Carneros characteristics. He also brought a 2016 Ricardo Santos Semillon from Argentina.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the coolest bargains on wine, beer and spirits.
Wine Enthusiast magazine has named Bottle Barn one of the top wine retailers in the country. Dan Berger’s Wine of the Week in his weekly article in the Napa Register is usually one that is available at Bottle Barn.
Jason Schneider tells that Redwood Empire is the top selling local brand of whiskey, because of its high quality for its price. For a young distiller, the quality is very high already.
Join the Rodney Strong mailing list to receive special offers, information on new releases, and more. Redwood Empire Bourbon They taste a Redwood Empire Bourbon which they say has real personality, with a good finish. Even if this is wine country, and a wine show, Sonoma County has a lot of craft beer and spirits too. The local spirit industry has flourished along with winemaking and craft beer in successive waves of new distillers. Due to the several years time required for the first bottling to be ready, most of the distilleries in Sonoma County started with vodka and gin. That way, they have product early on to sell, before the whiskey can come on line.
Then they taste their Bottled in Bond Rye Whiskey. It is a four-grain rye, but also some wheat, malted barley and 3% corn, which she says, you can't taste it but you can feel it.
Katey Bacigalupi Row, Tom Simoneau and Nicole Bacibalupi Dericco.
As The Drive and California Wine Country are still on summer vacation, here is a repeat episode where friend of the show Tom Simoneau has brought guests from Bacigalpui Vineyards. This episode was originally recorded on May 18, 2022.
Katey Bacigalupi Row and Nicole Bacigalupi Dericco join Tom Simoneau today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. The Bacigalupi family owns and operates Bacigalupi Vineyards. Their parents Helen and Charles Bacigalupi, purchased 125 acres on Westside Road in 1956. 2021 was their 65th harvest. Tom Simoneau met them when he and his wife were new to the area in 1988. He mentions that the Bacigalupi reputation is second to none in the Russian River Valley. Beginning with Bubbles We will start by tasting the Bacigalupi sparkling Blanc de Noirs, a 2017 vintage. They make bubbles every four years and they use raw local honey instead of cane sugar for the dosage. After their first sparkling vintage in 2014 they were satisfied but they still wanted to look for a way to improve it.
The team did some tastings and found a favorite that was done with honey so they found a local beekeeper to meet their supply requirements. It is 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir and the honey brings a unique flavor. It is available online and at the tasting room, which is located at 4353 Westside Road and open by reservation every day except Tuesday.
Here, Tom Simoneau tells about how the Grgich wine that won the famous Judgement of Paris tasting in 1976 contained 40% fruit from Bacigalupi Vineyards. Dan Berger says that their older vines produce great fruit. Older vines produce more intense flavors and the winemaker can get great acidity and balance out of older vines. Growers like younger vines for their higher yields but older vines produce lower yields per acre but more interesting flavors.
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Next is the 2019 Bacigalupi Chardonnay, which they have dedicated to Helen. It is named Renouveau, which means Renewal. The 2.5 acre bloc produces only about 100 cases per year. It was under contract to a Napa producer for 20 years; only recently they were able to use the fruit themselves.
Ashley Hertzberg Winemaker Ashley Hertzberg They have been working with Ashley Hertzberg, consulting winemaker. This is their 12th vintage together. “She is really good at coaxing out the natural quality of the vineyard with really minimal manipulation.” Tom Simoneau knows her as a “really tremendous winemaker.”
Bacigalupi Vineyards is about to hold their next Vineyard Designate Tasting fund raising event. The tasting includes several wines that are made all over wine country using fruit from their vineyards. It all happens on Saturday July 16, 1-4 PM.
The Bacigalupi Chardonnay has it all, a lot of oak, a lot of fruit and a lot of complexity. Dan would put it away for three years but not more, since “...they’ve already given you what you want, in this wine. This wine has already got way more complexity than most Chardonnays will ever have.”
Next they taste the Zinfandel, which they consider the crown jewel. They have about 60 acres of Zinfandel on relatively cooler-climate land that gets some fog. Vineyard conditions call for a lot of thinning on their Zin, first while the fruit is green and then again if they see it is too heavy. If the vines are too loaded the fruit will not ripen. Their yields are about four or five tons per acre.
Dan and Don.
While The Drive and California Wine Country are on Summer vacation, there is no new show again this week, so here is a repeat of an episode recorded on June 22, 2022, featuring Don Chigazola of Chigazola Merchants, importers of selected Italian wines. Cheers, and cin-cin!
Piemonte wines are on the table today as Don Chigazola is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He has brought some wines from Piemonte (the region in northwest Italy located south of Switzerland and east of France).
His company Chigazola Merchants imports unique wines produced in the various regions of Italy. They travel back roads in Italy and meet the local people in order to find the best long-established producers. These wineries are mostly small family operations making the wines that are traditional in that region. They taste a lot of wine and meet a lot of people and they build relationships with the ones that make the best wines, which they will import. They work with 12 different families, soon to be 13, in 10 different regions. On these previous editions of California Wine Country, Don Chigazola showed white wines from various regions of central Italy, and once specifically from Umbria. Today he has brought wines from Piemonte (which is also known for truffles).
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the coolest bargains on wine, beer and spirits. Traveling the Back Roads of Italy They just got back from almost a month in Italy, hunting for Riesling in the northeastern province of Alto-Adige. There he found a new producer and he hopes to have their wines in California by the end of the year. They make Riesling, Silvaner and Kerner. The last of those two are not well known over here at all.
Their travel patterns to Italy were somewhat interrupted during the pandemic. Vinitaly is a Verona-based international wine show, which takes place annually in April. There are more than 6,000 Italiain producers showing their wines there. Don also attends this show to find leads.
Chigazola Merchants is a small operation. They typically import 300-500 cases per year, into Sonoma County. That qualifies them as a micro-importer. They are going back to Sardinia in September. Cannonau is a big red from Sardinia, and Vermentino is a tasty white wine produced there (and also in Tuscany and Liguria).
Dan Berger points out that these wines are not going to be known or reviewed by the mainstream press and commercial outlets. He is a direct importer, so his prices will not be marked up as much as the national distributors do. Piemonte wine tastings A varietal called Langhe Arneis is the first tasting. This comes from the Pola family in the village of Neve, in the Barbaresco district. It is called Fontanabianca, which means white fountain. There is a fountain on their property whose water is white due to the minerality.
This wine is “poco mosso” which means it has light natural bubbles. It ls light and easy drinking but also has good acidity so it pairs with food. Don likes it alone or with salads and soups, or light meats or spaghetti alle vongole. Dan Berger explains that they figured out how to make good wine from Arneis after stainless steel tanks came on, which lets you keep it cool.
The two titans, Barbaresco and Barolo, are both based on Nebbiolo grapes but the two areas have very different terroir. First they taste a Barbaresco, which must be held for a full two years. It is supposed to be a light color. It is like a daily drinking wine but it will also stand 6-8 years in the cellar. Michele Pola, the winemaker, recently took over from his father.
The other big red is a 2017 Sobrero Barolo, “the wine of kings and the king of wines.” Barolo has more of a “leather belt” character. It is big, dark and lush. Barolo’s weather and soil are completely different so the Nebbilo grape expresses very differently than Barbaresco. (Nebbiolo the name comes from the Italian word neb...
While The Drive is on Summer vacation, and so is California Wine Country, there is no new show this week, so here is an episode of another wine show from The Drive, called Off the Vine, sponsored by Sonoma County Winegrowers, which originally aired on January 25, 2023. Cheers!
Steve Jaxon and Harry Duke present this episode of Off the Vine with Sonoma County Winegrowers President Karissa Kruse, who has invited Erik Miller from Kokomo Wines, as her guest.
Erik Miller has also been a guest on California Wine Country, on this episode of March 13, 2019.
The Salamati family of Goguette Bread, 2017 photo.
Today we revisit Goguette Bread and Komomo Wines with Karissa Kruse from Sonoma County Winegrowers. While The Drive and California Wine Country are on Summer vacation, here is a replay of a favorite episode recorded in September of 2017, with a studio full of guests. We talk to Najine Shariat of Goguette Bread in Santa Rosa, Karissa Kruse from the Sonoma County Winegrowers, and Erik Miller from Kokomo Winery.
Today Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger welcome Najine Shariat of Goguette Bread in Santa Rosa. They are a traditional French country style bakery that specializes in levain (starter)-based, long fermented organic, French style breads. Also in the studio today are Karissa Kruse, President of the Sonoma County Winegrowers and Erik Miller from Kokomo Winery
First, they open a Kokomo Winery 2013 Blanc de Blancs, a sparkling wine. Dan explains that this is a good example of successful “dosage” meaning how a sparkling wine producer will add sugar to control the naturally high acidity of sparkling wines. Dosage trials can be tricky because you can’t taste the results until at least six months later. Introducing Goguette Bread They introduce Najine Shariat of Goguette Bread who tells about her bakery that makes traditional levain-based bread, which goes really well with fine wine. Steve asks Najine to explain about gluten, which is a protein present in wheat that some people are allergic to. Dan says that some large corporate bakers do not leave the dough to “proof” long enough, so they may be called sourdough but they lose the flavor of sourdough. Dan notes that their breads don’t say “sourdough” but they are. Najine explains that their levain is more than 20 years old and comes from Europe. Dan thinks the secret to these breads is that they taste and smell as good as the bread in France.
Pain de Campagne, Cheese Fougasse and Green Olive bread.
Next they taste a 2014 Gewürztraminer-Schönburger from Gehringer Wines in Canada. The Gehringers are two brothers from around Vancouver, BC, Canada who both studied wine making in Germany and founded their estate winery in Canada.
This wine is mostly Gewürztraminer with a little bit of Schönburger grapes in it. It’s slightly sweet and a real crowd-pleasing popular wine. Karissa agrees that the kiss of sweetness would make it go well with Asian food. She also wants to try it with the bread! Erik says that wine is like music for him, and different genres are pleasant at different times. It could maybe use a bit more acid but that’s the way it is and it’s pleasant in and of itself.
They are tasting the Pain de Campagne and everyone is impressed with it. It is made with some whole wheat flour. Dan says that it is so good you could use it to make La Panzanella ("la pahnt-za-NELL-a") which is a southern Italian salad with fresh tomatoes, basil, other fresh ingredients, and pieces of day-old bread, which soak up the dressing made with vinegar and good olive oil.
Next they are tasting the Goguette Bread Cheese Fougasse, which is delicious. Dan thinks it would make great savory French toast.
Erik also brought his Kokomo Dry Creek Valley Grenache. Dan says it’s killer, a phenomenal wine harvested, appropriately, for flavor and not for color. Even if Dry Creek Valley has a reputation for Zinfandel, there is great Grenache too. Dan thinks that Grenache has a great future in California. The Key to Grenache Erik says that the key to Grenache is that is has to have some age on it, since the vines are young. Dan tastes pomegranite and cranberry aroma, a very silky almost Pinot-Noir-like structure in terms of tannin, but the acid is a sleeper, there’s good acidity but it doesn’t show as acid, it shows as structure. Karissa mentions that Sonoma County produces a wide variety of types of Rhone valley grapes, apart from the better known ones.
Najine talks about the baking schedule and how they have some breads for every d...
Taste of Sonoma Report: While The Drive is on Summer vacation, here is our report on the 2023 Taste of Sonoma, produced in collaboration with our friends at Sonoma County Vintners.
On Saturday, June 24, Sonoma County Vintners put on Taste of Sonoma at the Kendall-Jackson Estate.
On Saturday, June 24, Sonoma County Vintners held this year's edition of Taste of Sonoma at the Kendall-Jackson Estate. We collected comments from several people including guests, exhibitors and representatives of local charities, for this 5-minute audio report from the event.
Thanks to Michael Haney and Barbara Cox of Sonoma County Vintners, Cathy Ratto, Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, Linda Real and the North Bay Bohemian, Kristin Coughtry from St Francis Winery, Cristina from Benicia, Dani Logue from the Charles M. Schultz Sonoma County Airport, Matt Ward of Pride Mountain Vineyards, Sonia Byck-Barwick and Social Advocates for Youth, Shayna and Redwood Empire Food Bank and Margie Pettibone and Catholic Charities. Thanks also to Noël Coward, Patricia Routledge and Vince Guaraldi, for their bit of fair use musical accompaniment.
Taste of Sonoma is always one of Sonoma County’s most highly anticipated events of the year. Every year it features wines from about one hundred local wineries, along with several various food trucks. The event includes walk-around wine tasting, guided wine seminars, garden tours, a beer garden, premium wine experiences and the themed lounges. The event attracts a crowd of folks who appreciate the best of what Sonoma County produces. With access to more than 60 wine varietals and 19 unique growing areas, Sonoma County’s remarkable winemakers craft world-class wines for every palate.
The next Taste of Sonoma is on June 22, 2024.
Dan Berger and Barry Herbst
With The Drive on Summer vacation, here is an episode for this week's podcast, from last August where Barry Herbst describes Rosé wines available at Bottle Barn. For all of this year's Rosé offerings and more, visit the Bottle Barn website, bottlebarn.com.
Bottle Barn Rosé wines are the subject of this episode of California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. It’s Rosé all day with Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.
Bottle Barn has more Rosés than anyone in Sonoma County and may stock more than any store in the whole country. They have at least 90 different ones, which is not quite as much as last year. These Rosé wines come from many regions of the world. The first to be opened comes from Basque country in Spain. Another feature of Ros´ is that there is a spectrum of colors of all of these wines. The Evolving Reputation of Rosé Dan Berger tells how it took an entire generation of people disparaging pink wine before a new generation decided to try it before deriding it. When the weather is awfully hot as it is now in late August, there are few wines more pleasant to drink.
Now, Rosé is an “unstoppable train,” says Barry Herbst. The quality is so high and the flexibility with food makes it available to pair with many flavors of food. It is also easier and less expensive to produce than wines that require barrel aging.
The first is called Kara Marie, the Ra Ra Rosé, a local production of winemaker Daryl Groom, named after his daughter. It is made from Grenache grapes grown in Dry Creek Valley. Its strong floral flavors have a trace of the taste of the red wine that it comes from. “Perfectly dry,” says Steve Jaxon. Dan suggests it would go with Steak Tartare.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the coolest bargains on wine, beer and spirits.
All of the wines today are from 2021. Some of these wines improve after a year or two and they are made to be enjoyed young. But if you accidentally lose a bottle in your cellar, don’t toss it before you try it! Don’t buy anything three years old, as that can be too late.
Next is Husch Vineyards 2021 Mendocino Blaze Rosé. It is the pale pink or copper shade that is second in line in the featured illustration above. This is made from Zinfandel, Carignane and Petit Syrah. A Possible Comeback for White Zin? There was a stigma about White Zinfandel at one time, but some producers are actually bringing it back right now. Also, they harvest grapes for Rosé early, even right now in late August.
Next is a 2020 dry Rosé from Von Winning. It should be well chilled and served in a decanter. It is made from Pinot Noir and is very flavorful. There are a lot of nice German pink wines coming in now.
Next is a Txomin Etxaniz Rosé from Basque country. These grapes grow 7 feet high off the ground. The soil there is white, and it captures so much sunlight that it radiates heat off the ground, so the grapes have to be away from the heat of the soil.
Until they had cold fermentation in steel tanks, these wines were not very good, but when they could invest in stainless steel tanks, the wine production improved a lot. “Zomin Zaniz” is the pronunciation according to Harry Duke.
The last Rosé tasted today is a 2021 Les Rocailles from Savoie (aka Savoy, southeastern France). It is a cool growing area, light body, heavy acid, a good level of fruit, built on its tannins. It is like a red wine variant.
Tom Simoneau and Mari Jones.
Mari Jones from Emeritus Vineyards is Tom Simoneau’s special guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. While The Drive is on vacation there is no new CWC again this week. This episode was recorded live on the radio on September 28, 2022. Cheers!
Mari Jones from Emeritus Vineyards is Tom Simoneau’s special guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Emeritus Winemaker David Lattin was also on California Wine Country, on this episode from May 8, 2019. Mari Jones takes the title President (of Fun) at Emeritus Vineyards. Bryce Cutrer-Jones in the early ‘90s chose a 115-acre site for Pinot Noir. He sold Sonoma-Cutrer in 1999. Tom Simoneau tells about how Mari’s father was one of the pioneers of Sonoma County Pinot Noir. From the Air Force to Wine Country Mari tells how her father went to the Air Force Academy and he was a fighter pilot for eight years. He got interested in wine when working as a pilot for a general, in Europe. One day he learned that Burgundy was a place and not just a kind of cheap wine. After the Air Force he went to business school and developed a way to use vineyards as a tax shelter. Eventually he built up a vast personal cellar. He succeeded in merging new world technology and old world sensibility, particularly between Burgundy and California. Finally he bought Hallberg Ranch and that is where this wine they are tasting comes from.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the coolest bargains on wine, beer and spirits.
They begin tasting the Pinot Noirs from Hallberg Ranch. Their total production is only between 8000 to 10,000 cases per year. The name Emeritus has a story. They brought a lot of staff over from Sonoma-Cutrer, when Emeritus got started. In Latin it means “earned by service” or in modern English, old men out to pasture. Dry Farming Tom Simoneau mentions their dry farming technique, which they do at Emeritus. The Hallberg Ranch Pinot Noir is picked at 22-24 brix. Mari Jones explains that often, when irrigating, you get chemical ripeness without flavor development. They find that they get higher acid, smaller berries, more intense aromatics and smaller juice to skin ratio.
Winemaker David Lattin has been there since 2017. He has a history of working with some very famous estate-grown Pinot Noir producers in California. Emeritus has a small production so only one wine is in the wholesale market, this Hallberg Ranch. Most of their other wines are under 500 cases. Their ranch and tasting room are located in Occidental on Hwy 116.
Then they taste the Pinot Hill East, about 8 miles southwest, to Pinot Hill vineyard in Sebastopol Hills. It is cold and foggy. The vines are on an east-facing slope, so they get no direct sun in the summer. The west side has completely different conditions and the wines are equally different.
Sonoma County Vintners
While The Drive is on Summer vacation, there is no new CWC show this week, but Taste of Sonoma is this coming Saturday, so here is a repeat of the episode from last May 17, with Craig McAllister from La Crema. Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and guest Craig McAllister talk about La Crema and about the upcoming Taste of Sonoma.
Craig McAllister, head winemaker at La Crema, is our in-studio guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. The last time we had a guest from La Crema was this March 2, 2022 episode with winemaker Eric Johannsen. Taste of Sonoma La Crema will be pouring at the Grand Tasting at the Taste of Sonoma at Kendall-Jackson, on Saturday June 24, an event sponsored by Sonoma County Vintners. All the other great labels will be there too. Dan Berger says it’s one of the most enjoyable events on the calendar. There will also be live music as well as early bird pricing, which is available until May 31. The Themed Lounges at Taste of Sonoma Later in the show, Dan describes the themed lounges at Taste of Sonoma as an opportunity to get an education in wine. A public wine event like this allows you to understand why the wine is as good as it is. You learn all about the wine at the different lounges, like Rodney Strong Destination Rosé lounge or the Gloria Ferrer Bubble Lounge sparkling wine. Over in another lounge, there will be a silent disco (where everyone has separate headphones and is hearing different music.) Craig McAllister, Winemaker First they taste a brand new Bonny Doon orange wine, a white wine aged on skins, not very long but very cold, and made for quick drinking. The orange comes from 10% orange muscat grapes, which bring some sweetness. Steve didn’t like it but Dan and Craig do. Bonny Doon is located in Santa Cruz, founded by Randal Graham.
Craig McAllister
Craig came to California in 2007. His background in New Zealand was in resort hotels, he trained as a hotel manager. He lived in the UK and worked construction and serving beer in bars. Back in New Zealand, he went to college and studied winemaking. He describes learning about wine and cocktails in the hotel business and how that made for a good transition into winemaking.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the coolest bargains on wine, beer and spirits.
La Crema Viñera was the original name. Jess Jackson bought the property and has made a steady run of high-quality wines at reasonable prices. As they taste the Sauvignon Blanc, Craig says he is focusing on texture 70% of the thought process. 25% of this wine was in neutral oak barrels, 25 or thirty days only, which gives the texture he wants. La Crema Rosé of Pinot Noir Craig also brought a Rosé of Pinot Noir from Saralee’s vineyard, which is only sold in the tasting room. It is grown and made with the intent of making Rosé. It has bright natural acidity and smells a bit like champagne stock, says Dan. There is Pinot Noir flavor without any of the tannin or bite. It’s copper colored with a hint of pink. It is bone dry, close to zero sugar. “All fermented out…” says Craig. The hand harvested fruit is picked in the very early morning and it goes straight into a very gentle pressing cycle. Direct to press means that the grapes are only gently pressed, not crushed, which would bring more tannins and other flavor elements into the juice.
There are different options for visiting La Crema, visit their website for more information. Some wines are only available in their tasting room and it is on a beautiful historic property.
Dan Berger, the Balletto Vineyard Portrait
There is no new CWC show this week, so here is the second part of our interview from last February where co-host Dan Berger talks about Riesling, his international competition and more.
Dan is back with Steve Jaxon and Harry Duke in part 2 of the story of Dan’s career as a journalist that ends up with him making Riesling. Part 1 is here. The episode begins with the story of Dan’s book about basketball. He also wrote for the NFL for one year, for their magazine called “Pro!” which was the outer portion of the stadium programs for the whole league. The local team provided the inside portion. He had an office at the corner of Wilshire and Westwood in Los Angeles, near UCLA. The Story of the Corked Riesling He was bored with the restaurants while covering sports on the road so one night he ordered seafood and noticed that the wine tasted bad. The waiter agreed that it was corked and told Dan that with good taste perception like that, he could have a career in wine. While he was the San Diego sports columnist he also wrote three articles a week about wine.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the coolest bargains on wine, beer and spirits. The Dan Berger International Wine Competition In 1982 Dan Berger founded the Riverside International Wine Competition. He was tired of the numerical scores on wines and felt that gold medals meant more when they were the product of the judgement of a panel of qualified judges. By the late ‘80s the idea took hold and he still runs The Dan Berger International Wine Competition, an annual competition under his own name.
When an editor asked him to cover “high tech” in 1983. Sorrento Valley in San Diego was where several new technology companies were started, including chips and cell phones. The community was connected to UC San Diego which was an important center for new technology. about the brand. “Journalism calls for analysis. You can’t write a story based on just one single source. You have to ask all the questions that nobody wants to ask… A good journalist is going to look at every single angle before putting a single work on paper.” Dan has been to Australia 23 times, 15 for judging and the other 8 times for interviews. He has been to New Zealand 9 times. “I think New Zealand is one of the greatest countries in the world.”
He wrote a book about San Diego, called “San Diego, where Tomorrow Begins” although the publisher didn't like his title, “San Diego, City with a Mission” for some reason. After making an offhand comment about being able to write such a book, his friend called him later to say he had a publisher for him. Dan Berger, Winemaker The reason that Dan’s competition exists is that he believes winemakers are the best judges and so many of the top winemakers in wine country are his judges. Dan has just started producing a Riesling, too. He is also involved in a project based on “changing how wine is being produced.” Stay tuned.
Dan Berger, the Balletto Vineyard Portrait
There is no new CWC show today, so for today's podcast edition, we offer this fun and interesting episode from last February, featuring CWC co-host and journalist Dan Berger. Enjoy!
Dan Berger, longtime co-host of California Wine Country takes center stage on the show today, with Steve Jaxon and Harry Duke. Harry Duke describes a 32-point sheet that Dan brought, full of stories from his life. Dan ends up telling about several of those stories, in this show and the next one a week later.
In the 1950s his parents won a Pepsodent toothpaste contest by writing 25 words about the brand in clever rhyming couplets. The prize was a lot of money. The family moved from Brooklyn to Los Angeles in 1949. Dan attended Fairfax High School where he was in a barbershop quartet that won the LA city championship. While a student at UCLA he sang in the a capella choir and even performed at the Hollywood Bowl. He also sang the Messiah in Amy Semple Macpherson’s temple for several years. Journalist and Reporter He became night sports editor at AP and covered track and field for AP at the Munich Olympics in 1972, where he ended up covering the terrorist attack as well. All the other correspondents were off their beats because of a lot of the events were over, but Dan was there.
Dan also covered a fatal plane crash in Samoa and got the story of how one of the few survivors made it out alive. He was working at AP in Los Angeles and told his editor “…if you need anybody, I speak the language.” Later his editor offered to send him there and asked him what language they speak. “English, it’s an American possession,” he replied.
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He was a general assignment reporter and sportswriter. He was sent to cover the Patty Hearst kidnapping in San Francisco. When land lines were the only phones, he made sure he was the only reporter who could use the only available phone and he beat the competition by six minutes. Back then, that was an eternity for competitive reporters. Track & Field, Football, Basketball and Baseball He also wrote a book about basketball called Basketball, the Sports Playbook, published by Doubleday. They were publishing a series on different sports and the first draft of the book on basketball was a non-starter. The editor asked if Dan could write the book on short notice and he accepted the job. He sat down with his friend Pete Newell, the head coach at Cal, and wrote the book in three weeks.
One time, he was leaving the Dodger clubhouse, he was the only reporter who knew about the retirement of Don Drysdale. Another reporter asked him if there was any news and he simply replied, No. He was not obliged to share the scoop.
After ten years at the AP he took a job writing for the NFL, where he worked on their magazine called “Pro!” All the writers were great journalists but after a year he wanted to get back into real journalism. The Corked Riesling His interest in wine came from too many late nights covering sporting events. After games, all the sports writers would gather to go out to dinner and the only food was steak, potatoes and beer. He wanted something different, so they went out for seafood and ordered a bottle of German Riesling. He thought the wine smelled terrible. The waiter agreed it was corked. He said that Dan had a good palette, enough to have a career in wine. After he had been writing about wine for a few years, based in San Diego, he was invited to judge in Healdsburg in 1981. He moved to Sonoma County in 1986.
In 1982 Dan Berger founded the Riverside International Wine Competition. He was tired of the numerical scores on wines that meant nothing. He felt that gold medals from qualified judges meant more. Dan still runs The Dan Berger International Wine Competition, which published its results online going back to 2016.
Dan Berger and Carol Shelton.
Carol Shelton makes varietals beside Zin, although she is known as the Queen of Zinfandel, and she is back on California Wine Country today, with Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke. She has been on California Wine Country several times, most recently on this episode of February 15, 2023.
Dan Berger introduces Carol Shelton by saying that every time she enters a competition she wins gold medals. She just entered the North of the Gate competition and won 6 double golds and best of classes, best of show red and Carol was named winemaker of the competition. Every grape entered has to have been grown north of the Golden Gate. Dan likes the competition because it’s a smaller more local competition and the judges all know each other.
What is Wild Thing?They are tasting Carol’s 2022 Wild Thing Chardonnay. Wild Thing was originally the name of her Zinfandel, because she adds no yeast to what is there naturally. Dan says that it has good structure due to its acidity. It has tropical fruit in the aroma, but it is tart and will go with food. Carol says that the fruit profile comes from some Viognier and some Roussanne which she blended in.
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Next tasting is another gold medal, her signature wine called Wild Thing Zinfandel.
Mendocino has some of the oldest Zinfandel in California. In the Ukiah area, it is warm but not too hot. This wine has explosive blackberry fruit. It is blended with some Carignane and Petit Syrah that is also grown on the property.
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Carol came to California in high school and attended UC Davis. Her mother encouraged her to follow her interest in sciences and to look into food sciences. She took the Introduction to Wine class and found the connections to history, culture, food, sensory data, chemistry, microbiology were everything she loved. Eventually she got her degree in Fermentation Science in 1978. (The degree is called Enology today.)
Their tasting room is at 3354 Coffee Lane, they are in the back behind a few others, in the same business park with Moonlight Brewing. They are open daily from 11 am to 4 pm. Mention California Wine Country on The Drive to get a free tasting in Santa Rosa.
Barbera d’OakleyThey make Barbera d’Alba or Barbera d’Asti, different blends made in different towns in Piedmont. Barbera is a dry red wine popular in northern Italy. The vineyard is in Oakley, California, it is at the edge of the delta, at the San Joaquin River. The vines are over 100 years old. 75% Barbera, 10% Zin, 10% Merlot, and 5% Carignanne. It won a slew of medals. It has a dark color and vibrant aroma.
The next tasting is Coquille Rouge, which is all red Rhone varieties, grown at Oakley. Mourvedre, Grenache Noir and Petit Syrah, Carignane and Alicante Bouchet.
Dan and Tom
Tom Eliott, wine merchant and founder of Northwest Wines, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country.
Dan Berger has brought his house white wine for the moment. It comes from Claire Valley, just north of Adelaide in Australia. The brand is JB, Jim Berry Wines. It sells for $11.99 at Bottle Barn. It’s called Jim Berry W Riesling. Dan has brought this wine to compare it to Tom Eliott’s wines. Tom brings wines in from three regions which are all cool climates.
Tom started Northwest Wines in 1985 in Calistoga. Back in 1979 he had a red burgundy which he describes as his first Nirvana moment. “It was transcendental, I had never had a wine like that before.” In 1980 he was a wine buyer at Café Lido in North Beach and he tasted a lot of wine there.
André Tchelistcheff used to come in to buy wine in All Seasons market in Calistoga, where he was the buyer. He was a pioneer in bringing the cool climate wines that emphasize acidity and longevity.
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In the 80s and 90s he found other similar cool climate wines and built his business on cool climate wines from Oregon, Washington and Germany. When Tom got into the business, there was nobody distributing these wines. The problem was that these wines needed explanation. Dan Berger has known Tom Eliott for close to 40 years.
Silvaner in a BocksbeutelSilvaner in a Bocksbeutel
The Silvaner comes in the Bocksbeutel-style bottle. It’s a traditional bottle for German wines, and is known in the US as the old Mateus Rosé bottle. German wine country mostly the south west but this Silvaner comes from Franconia, in central Germany. The bottle shape is protected for that region. The best Silvaners in the world are grown here, although it is grown in many countries around Europe.
The next tasting is a 2020 Chardonnay, from Cooper Mountain in Willamette Valley. Dan describes it as very delicate and needs some more time in the bottle. It’s a wine oriented toward food. It comes from a second-generation family owned vineyard. They were the first winery to be certified organic by Oregon Tilth in 1995, and the first certified biodynamic by Demeter in 1999. Half stainless steel, half neutral oak aged, no yeast added, unfiltered. Dan would decant it and not drink it too chilled.
Moving along, they taste the Washington Rosé, Gramercy Cellars 2022 vintage. “Amazing,” says Dan. It’s all from a single vineyard in Columbia Valley. They farm the coolest blocks for Rosé, with more shading and a lower brix, so it comes out 13% alcohol. The blend is 50% Cinsault, 25% Grenache and 25% Syrah.
Oregon Pinot NoirThe final tasting is an Oregon Pinot Noir, Elk Cove 2021 from Willamette Valley. Dan says it has a little bit of black cherry, but not only that. It also has vibrancy. It was planted in 1973 and since then the son and daughter of the original owners are running the winery. They have added vineyards and got certified sustainable. The nose is bright and vibrant.
Craig McAllister
Craig McAllister, head winemaker at La Crema, is our in-studio guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. The last time we had a guest from La Crema was this March 2, 2022 episode with winemaker Eric Johannsen.
First they taste a brand new Bonny Doon orange wine, a white wine aged on skins, not very long but very cold, and made for quick drinking. The orange comes from 10% orange muscat grapes, which bring some sweetness. Steve didn’t like it but Dan and Craig do. Bonny Doon is located in Santa Cruz, founded by Randal Graham.
Craig came to California in 2007. His background in New Zealand was in resort hotels, he trained as a hotel manager. He lived in the UK and worked construction and serving beer in bars. Back in New Zealand, he went to college and studied winemaking. He describes learning about wine and cocktails in the hotel business and how that made for a good transition into winemaking.
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La Crema Viñera was the original name. Jess Jackson bought the property and has made a steady run of high-quality wines at reasonable prices. As they taste the Sauvignon Blanc, Craig says he is focusing on texture 70% of the thought process. 25% of this wine was in neutral oak barrels, 25 or thirty days only, which gives the texture he wants.
Taste of SonomaLa Crema will be pouring at the Grand Tasting at the Taste of Sonoma at Kendall-Jackson, on Saturday June 24, an event sponsored by Sonoma County Vintners. All the other great labels will be there too. Dan Berger says it’s one of the most enjoyable events on the calendar. There will also be live music as well as early bird pricing, which is available until May 31.
Craig also brought a Rosé of Pinot Noir from Saralee’s vineyard, which is only sold in the tasting room. It is grown and made with the intent of making Rosé. It has bright natural acidity and smells a bit like champagne stock, says Dan. There is Pinot Noir flavor without any of the tannin or bite. It’s copper colored with a hint of pink. It is bone dry, close to zero sugar. “All fermented out…” says Craig. The hand harvested fruit is picked in the very early morning and it goes straight into a very gentle pressing cycle. Direct to press means that the grapes are only gently pressed, not crushed, which would bring more tannins and other flavor elements into the juice.
The Themed Lounges at Taste of SonomaDan describes the themed lounges at Taste of Sonoma as an opportunity to get an education in wine. A public wine event like this allows you to understand why the wine is as good as it is. You learn all about the wine at the different lounges, like Rodney Strong Destination Rosé lounge or the Gloria Ferrer Bubble Lounge sparkling wine. Over in another lounge, there will be a silent disco (where everyone has separate headphones and is hearing different music.)
There are different options for visiting La Crema, visit their website for more information. Some wines are only available in their tasting room and it is on a beautiful historic property.
Barry, Moret & Dan.
Moret Brealynn from Morét-Brealynn Wines is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Barry Herbst is also in today from Bottle Barn, to describe their current Rosé promotion.
Moret started working in a tasting room and noticed that there was more to wine than just that. So she started taking classes in winemaking, first at Santa Rosa Junior College. She interned at the SF Chronicle wine competition. She went from Silver Oak to Kosta Browne working on promotions, tastings and shipping wine. This was her first exposure to production. At Silver Oak everyone is a specialist but at KB people wear different hats so she learned a lot of different jobs. See this page of the Morét-Brealynn website for her whole story.
The winery also supports animal shelters. In her career before wine Moret was Teen Center director for the city of Davis, in charge of park activities for teens, which is the job that later brought her to Sonoma County.
Dan’s cellar wine of the week, Baileyana 2013 Chardonnay.
Dan Berger’s cellar wine this week is a 2013 Baileyana Chardonnay that was made to have good acidity. It has been in a good cellar at a steady 55 degrees too, so it is in great condition.
Stray CatsThey taste the Morét-Brealynn 100% Muscadelle called Stray Cats. The fruit comes from the Sonoma Valley. There is a case on sale at Bottle Barn now. Dan mentions that Muscadelle is usually blended with Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon to make a white Bordeaux blend. Dan has never seen it before all alone, as a varietal. The orange kitty on the label is her cat Simba.
Next they taste two Rosés, a 2021 and 2022, and she describes her process of making each one. Moret compares them to sisters. They were both bottled in December in neutral barrels, but they come from different vineyards.
Barry Herbst describes how Bottle Barn’s Rosé season is starting now, at the store.
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The last two tastings are her two Pinot Noirs. They are made with 60% new French oak, 30% whole cluster. It has got some pretty high ratings. All of the Morét-Brealynn wines have screw caps, which everyone agrees is more and more popular. Dan mentions that we only have about a 10-year history of aging big red wines with screw caps, and it will take 10 or 20 more years to reach the 30-year threshold.
Steve Dveris of The Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience, Domenica Catelli from Catelli’s in Geyserville and Leslie Sbrocco, host of Check Please Bay Area on local PBS television, are all in studio today for California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Tom Simoneau. Barry Herbst, the wine buyer at Bottle Barn, is also in.
This is the second annual edition of the Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience, May 18-21, and it is bigger than it was last year. They have 140 wineries that have signed up. The Grand Tasting on Saturday May 20 (from 12-4pm) is the largest one that Steve has seen in thirty years of organizing such festivities. Tom Simoneau says that if you’re going to attend only one event of this kind this year, this would be the one.
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There will be live music, cocktails, a beer garden and lots of local producers featured. There are several levels of tickets including several a-la-carte events. On Friday after noon at 4pm, there is a craft cocktail event with some famous bartenders. On Saturday there is a concert at Rodney Strong as well.
Dan Berger’s Cellar Wine of the WeekDan Berger has brought a wine from his personal collection, for tasting. This a 2021 Sicilian white wine varietal called Grillo from Tenuta Regaliale. Dan describes it as having a similar structure to Chardonnay but also with the flavor of a Pinot Blanc with kumquat and citrus notes.
Domenica Catelli represents the third generation operating Catelli’s restaurant. Her grandparents started it in 1936. Her father took over in the late 60s then for a while the family was not involved in it, but 13 years ago she and her brother took over. For a while the restaurant was known as The Rex and it’s still the “silent name” of the place.
Leslie Sbrocco describes how her career covering food and wine began, when she created Wine Today dot com, through the Press Democrat. From there she started to write books and started doing TV. Check Please Bay Area is now in its 18th season. She also hosts show on national PBS called 100 Days, Drinks, Dishes and Destinations. She will be speaking at the Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience.
Zinfandel and moreOn Sunday, Leslie will be hosting the Zinfandel Live Experience with a list of 30 Zinfandel producers. She is also the author of a book about wine for women, her second book is The Simple and Savvy Wine Guide, a Guide to Buying, Pairing and Sharing and a third book is in the works. Leslie will also be pairing music with wine at the Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience.
Steve Dveris mentions that the Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience is the first festival of its kind in Sonoma County that invites wines from all over the world, even Napa Valley!
Leslie Sbrocco has brought two more wines as teasers for her Sunday Zinfandel seminar, each one representing a musical genre. The Rodney Strong 2019 Old Vine Zinfandel has the Zinfandel spice component of raspberry and spices, says Dan Berger. This is her jazzy wine, she associates it with Ella Fitzgerald. The last tasting is the Robert Biale Zinfandel, a 2021 Black Chicken label. Leslie associates it with blues music. Dan Berger suggests two more years in the bottle for this wine.
Julie Pedronelli
Julie Pedroncelli joins Harry Duke and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. She is the President of Pedroncelli Wines. The Pedroncelli family has been making wine for nine decades. They are into the third generation of active winemakers. They are well known for grape growing as well as winemaking.
The Pedroncelli 2022 Rosé of Zinfandel comes from a single vineyard that they have been using since the 1940s. They changed the packaging in the 2022 vintage too. Dan says, “I can not tell you how good this is!” He says Zinfandel demands to be made into Rosé and this one is bone dry and crisp with raspberry and strawberry, instead of the aromatics you get from a big dark red Zin.
Montse Reese, their winemaker, says this one is the most challenging and the most rewarding wine to make. They have to pick the grapes early. She has also been selecting the best vineyards and has settled on this Bushnell vineyard. Montse trained with Julie’s late uncle John, and succeeded him as winemaker. Dan hails her great sensitivity as displayed in this Zin Rosé.
Today’s labels
Giovanni and GiuliaThe next wine is the 2022 Sauvignon Blanc. It tells the story of their founders Giovanni and Giulia, on the label. They farm 11 acres of Sauvignon Blanc grapes in Dry Creek Valley. Julie describes how Montse picks one block a week or so before the other. This allows her to make Sauvignon Blanc that has some characteristics of both sets of grapes that have ripened either less or more. It’s good now, but Dan says it’s beautifully structured to age, as well.
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Julie describes how she majored in English in college and worked in the East Bay in publishing, while commuting to Geyserville to work in their tasting room, on weekends. That is when she accepted her father’s suggestion that she come work at the winery, in 1985.
Visit Pedroncelli in GeyservilleThey are located in Geyserville where their tasting room offers three different flights for tasting. Every flight starts with a splash of Rosé and ends with a taste of their Port wine.
The next tasting is the Mother Clone Zin. They farm 33 acres on the home ranch and they also use fruit from other vineyards. The oldest vines are 100 years old, most are second generation and are 40 years old, and a smaller vineyard is 10 years old. Their Zin has always been blended with a small amount of Petit Syrah.
The Sonoma Classico is the last wine tasted today. It is a blend that honors their roots in the red wine blends that were popular in the past. They grow all four of the varietals in this blend. They intend to maintain the integrity of the brand as they begin a 10-year growth plan. That includes the adoption of a sustainability plan.
To go along with the new CWC episode recorded on April 26, 2013 (today) with Julie Pedroncelli, here is an encore presentation of this 6-year-old episode, also featuring Julie Pedroncelli and her husband Ed St. John. If Dan Berger can age wine, can we also dig a well-aged podcast episode? Listen and find out!
From Pedroncelli Wines, Julie Pedroncelli and her husband Ed St. John, join Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. Also with us in studio are Sajive, owner of Bottle Barn, and Barry Herbst, their wine buyer.
The first tasting is a Rosé that Dan Berger brought in. It comes from Mount Beautiful, North Canterbury, in New Zealand. Dan says this region will become very well known in the next few years. He says this wine is “soft and sweet” and everyone enjoyed it.
Julie briefly tells the story of Pedronceli, which started with her grandparents, Giovanni and Giulia Pedroncelli, who bought a shuttered winery during Prohibition and made a living selling grapes at first. Then after Repeal, they returned to production. Her father Jim was the head of wine making. Now the second, third and fourth generation are all working in the business in different roles. For everything you’ll ever need to know about Pedroncelli Winery, visit their website http://www.pedroncelli.com/
Dry Creek AVAThey are located in Dry Creek, which Ed describes with great affection, saying they have been in Dry Creek before it became famous as the Dry Creek Valley. They just promoted Montse Reece to Winemaker last year. She is only the third winemaker they have had in their 90 year history and the first who is not a family member. They have had only three winemakers in the 90-year history of the company.
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Dan Berger describes the iconic wines of Pedroncelli, starting with Zinfandel, which Julie says is their flagship varietry. They brought in a Saugvignon Blanc 2016, their flagship wine Mother Clone Zin, and their Three-Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon.
The tasting begins with their Sauvignon Blanc, which is made without any oak, and Dan says that it would go very well with some spicy Thai food. “The structure is gorgeous,” he says, and suggests it would bear 3 or 4 years of aging.
The next tasting is a 2014 “Mother Clone Zinfandel” which Ed explains got its name from the old Italian practice of “borrowing wood” when growers would give cuttings from one another. Once, a grower was asked where a clone came from and he replied that it was the “mother clone” meaning it was his best original source. They then trademarked the term.
Dan says it shows flavors of violets, black cherries and a little trace of pepper, almost a subtle nutmeg in the aftertaste, a gorgeous wine…. Just stunning, gives you the real character of Dry Creek Valley.” He suggests it would go very well with some lamb.
Ed adds that this is wine is what they are striving for at Pedroncelli and adds, “My favorite thing to pair with this wine is a glass.”
Kinds of ZinfandelEd says that today many Zinfandels are “fruit bombs” and Dan and Steve agree, they slap you in the face, you’re tired of it halfway through the glass. This Zin lets you enjoy a second and third glass without losing focus.
Ed tells how he was recently tasting their 2017 vintage, with winemaker Montse Reece. It is her first at the winery as winemaker. She said, “We don’t make fruit bombs, we make spice bombs.” She Julie agreed that they strive for spice over fruit flavors.
Sajive asks them to describe the Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel style and Julie replies that it is the spicy berry flavor. Dan adds the wild strawberry flavors are also present which comes from harvesting the grape when it is not over-ripe.
Dan calls it an exotic wine that will age as well as you want it to. Steve says that he got tired of Zinfandel when it was too fruity, but this is totally different, silky and smooth and not hitting him on the head.
Dan adds that it has good acidity because they don’t wait until all the grapes are ripe because some of the grapes will be over-ripe.
Ed describes the winery’s beautiful grounds and tasting room and how Dirk the Dog is everyone’s friend there. They are celebrating their 90th anniversary this year so they are going to have several celebrations going on.
Doug and Dan.
Our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today is Doug Nalle from Nalle Winery. Their story starts in the 1890s with his first Swiss ancestors arrived in Sonoma County. In the 1920s, his wife’s grandparents bought property that they still have in Dry Creek Valley. They founded Nalle Winery in 1984 and they built the current winery in 1990.
Dan Berger and Doug Nalle have been friends since the 1980s. They both agree that Doug’s style of wine is “old school” which Dan describes as “…balanced, structured, great with food, beautiful aromatics, gorgeous structure and acidity…”
Doug’s son Andrew works with the family winery now, after growing up around the winery. After a degree in philosophy, he took many wine courses and worked in wine in South Africa. He is finishing a Master’s winemaking at Fresno State. His wife April also has a Master’s in viticulture and also works with the winery.
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They are tasting a Hopkins Ranch Pinot Noir from 2021 which is “a little young” but Dan “Lay It Down” Berger still enjoys it. Doug might prefer to pour a 2020 right now, but there was so much smoke in the air due to the fires that broke out in late August of that year that the vintage was ruined. Doug attributes it character to the clone used, to the soil and weather. It’s not a deep color but the aromatics are pure varietal character. It’s a lighter stye, “sprightly” says Doug. The acidity works with the intense fruit flavors.
Hopkins Ranch is located on the east side of the Russian River on East Side Road. West Side Road has several wineries, notably Rochioli. It is cool enough to give the desired acidity, and warm enough to give “faint plumpness” as Dan describes.
The next wine tasted is a 2021 Zinfandel from Dry Creek Valley. Doug calls it old school and Dan just calls it delicious. They have been making this wine in the same style for 39 years.
The last wine tasted is a 2020 called Ranch Red. All the smoke that year made it hard to produce a wine from red wine grapes, but this one came out “like a champion,” says Dan Berger. It is 60% Zinfandel and 40% Cabernet.
Finally, they taste an estate Cabernet Sauvignon from Dry Creek Valley, another 2020. Dan Berger mentions that there are not a lot of 202o wines available due to smoke taint that year, but if you are looking to put away some 2020s, this would be the one.
Steve Dveris
Tom Simoneau has brought Steve Dveris, head of the Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience, to California Wine Country with Harry Duke and Dan Berger. Steve Jaxon is away again this week.
The Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience takes place from May 18-21, 2023. Also in the studio today are Sarah Quider, VP of winemaking for Foley Family Wines and chef Crista Luedtke.
The first wine is the 2022 Ferrari-Carrano Fumé Blanc labeled North Coast and which is mainly a Sonoma County product, with a little bit from Lake County and Mendocino County. They prune the vines so the grapes have a lot of sunlight, which gives more tropical characteristics. One third of the wine is aged in neutral barrels. Dan Berger describes a trace of fresh fennel in the aromatics. It is succulent without being sweet. Dan mentions the trees in the Ferrari-Carrano grounds.
To go with this wine Crista Luedtke has made a beet salad. She will also make a mushroom and walnut paté, which is vegan. Crista has two restaurants in Guerneville, Boon and the new one, Brot. Boon will be featured at the HWFE.
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The next tasting is a Chalk Hill Chardonnay. The grapes grow in light-colored volcanic soil which gives some minerality. Dan describes it as rich, oily and seductive. It would go well with seafood in a cream sauce. Crista has paired it with her Moroccan carrots. She has a secret Moroccan sauce. They have a dressage arena on the property.
As an accompaniment, they are also sampling the Bavarian style pub cheese from Brot, Crista’s new restaurant, with some little pretzel bites. The Banshee Pinot Noir goes perfectly with it.
BansheeBanshee has a little tasting room in Healdsburg, across the street from Valette. It has vinyl records and couches and a “lounge vibe.” They started the label to make a good Pinot Noir at an affordable price. It is a fruit forward Pinot Noir, to express the varietal. Banshee winemaker Alicia Sylvester was on California Wine Country last year, on this June 1, 2022 episode.
There are over 140 wineries participating at the Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience. You have to be in wine country to get such a lineup that includes everything from small boutique wineries to great famous labels, from here and abroad. There is a car show, a tractor show, a new beer garden, spirits, cupcakes and more.
Finally they taste a 2018 Silverado Vineyards Cabernet from Napa. It comes from two vineyards, in Stags Leap and Coombsville. Dan describes its balance between the Stags Leap character with the acidity from the cooler Coombsville. It reminds him of the 1986 and he thinks this one will age very well.
Jeff and Bibiana
Shared Notes Wines co-founders and winemakers Bibiana Rave and Jeff Pisoni are our guests on California Wine Country today, with Harry Duke, Dan Berger and Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn. Steve Jaxon is away today.
Bibiana was on California Wine Country on this episode on August 29, 2019, to talk about her own label Alma de Cattleya
Jeff Pisoni and Bibiana Rave from Shared Notes. They are both co-founders and winemakers. They have been winemakers elsewhere and this is their first chance to work together. Dan Berger tasted their wines and was “shocked at how good they were.” Barry Herbst loves these wines because they are different than most of the local wines, in a European style, such as the Bordeaux Blanc that they make.
A Small ProductionThey only make two wines and they only make 100 cases per year. Jeff describes their 100% Sauvignon Blanc wine. They both mainly made Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the past and they were eager to work with SV too. The fruit is dominant, Dan describes a slightly underripe quince and “fabulous acidity.” It is the complete opposite of the typical Sauvignon Blancs on the market right now. “…zero grams per liter of sugar,” says Bibiana.
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Bibiana grew up in Colombia and studied winemaking in France for six years. Then in 2004 she came to Sonoma County. This is where she met her husband Jeff Pisoni. He grew up farming in the Salinas Valley where he also became acquainted with wine. They do tastings by appointment, but only two per day Mon-Fri.
Wines Made to Age WellBibiana explains that they make wines that are meant to age well, which is why Dan Berger likes them. He also admires that they have an ambitious strategy and a philosophy of wine and the ability to carry off the production.
I almost fell down it was so good. And this never happens to me!” -Dan Berger
Now they are tasting the Sauvignon Blanc – Semillon blend, the 2012. This is an example of a wine made to age, and Dan says it proves the validity of their project. Their wines are all 100 % Russian River Valley grapes, from vineyards that are certified for sustainability.
Since Bibiana is from Colombia she is also interested in coffee, so they have been importing specially selected beans, which they roast on demand. There are a lot of parallels between tasting coffee and wine. Bibiana also explains how coffee is also a product of a fermentation.
Don Chigazola on CWC, Dec. 2021.
Don Chigazola is back on California Wine Country today, with a selection of white wines from the Alto Adige region of Italy. He joins Harry Duke and Dan Berger in the studio. Steve Jaxon is away today. These three wines come from the Alto Adige region of Italy. It’s in the northeast, bordering on Austria and Switzerland. It has unique terroir and a cold climate with steep mountainside vineyards.
Chigazola MerchantsDon’s company, Chigazola Merchants, imports wines from small family-owned producers from different regions of Italy. He met this producer at an annual wine convention called VinItaly. He also travels the back roads of the Italian provinces and locates fine local producers which would otherwise be impossible to find, for his customers in the US. They will be in Italy next month for this year’s VinItaly and to visit wineries.
Don has been on CWC several times before, showing different wines that he has found on his travels throughout Italy. The last time was this episode of June 22, 2022, where he brought white wines from Piemonte (the western part of northern Italy).
The Alto Adige is a cool mountainous region with a large German-speaking population. Most families there speak German and Italian. These wines all have German varietal names. Don has brought three white wines, Kerner, Riesling and Sylvaner, each from the Taschlerhof winery.
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The first tasting is the 2021 Riesling, which is very dry and would pair well with a wide variety of foods. Dan Berger suggests rich ripe cheeses. It has a wild floral character with its dry aftertaste. Riesling has many different personalities depending on where it is made. It changes as it ages and can take eight years in the cellar.
Alto Adige TerroirThe Alto Adige soil is called schist, comprised of compressed layers of pebbles and stones. It is quite thick and the roots have to run deep for the vines to find water and nourishment. They are at a high altitude, 1500-2100 feet of altitude. Dan Berger mentions that over 1800 feet, the climate gets colder. They get about 300 days a year of direct sunlight. They have very warm days and very cold nights. The diurnal temperature swings can be 50-55 degrees F per day.
The next wine is a Sylvaner which is rarely found in the US. It has a steely, stony component but also floral and dry spice flavors. It is even drier, and more subtle, than the Riesling and might go well with a mild white fish. Growers are more willing to plant other varietals since Sylvaner isn’t very lucrative, interesting as it is.
Finally they taste the Kerner, which is rare outside of Alto Adige but is well known there. It is the heaviest and most aromatic of these three wines. It has some richness in the mid-palette from the tannins.
Don enjoys having discovered so many great white wines in Italy. There are over 100 Italian white varietals. The world is not just Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc!
William Weese, Tom & Dan.
William Weese and Evan Merriam of Merriam Vineyards are both guests on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke. William’s titles are Winemaker and Shepherd. Evan is the newly appointed CEO, having succeeded his father in the role. Evan’s father Peter founded the winery and the last time he was on this show was this episode of September 22, 2021.
Tom Simoneau and Merriam Vineyards founder Peter Merriam both come from the great state of Maine and Tom tells the story of how he found a vineyard for his friend Peter in 2000. Merriam Vineyards then started making wine in 2008. Tom makes his wine at Peter’s facility too.
William Weese, Winemaker & ShepherdAt Merriam Vineyards, William Weese also carries the title Shepherd and he describes how that happened. He decided to build on the biodynamic approach to making high quality wine. At one time they brought 400 sheep into the vineyard so they would mow down the cover crop. They did 15 acres in under a week. The sheep deposit natural urea in their urine which saves them from having to purchase fertilizer for that.
When Peter bought the vineyard, it was already producing. So their first harvest came in at the same time Tom was making some of his own home production in the same place. Merriam is not in the coolest part of Russian River but the fog keeps the vines cool enough to make great fruit.
Dan’s Cellar Dweller of the WeekDan Berger has also brought one of his cellar wines to taste today, an 2017 Argentine Chardonnay called Bodega Aniello, from Patagonia.
Next they taste a 2021 Danielle Fumé Blanc, estate grown at Merriam Vineyards. The grapes are Sauvignon Blanc fermented in some new French oak. Tom says it has the best of all worlds, as Chardonnays go. Dan Berger detects a trace of quince.
Ten VarietalsMerriam Vineyards grow ten varietals now. They just harvested their first estate Chardonnay. It’s called “Undisclosed” because they get fruit from many local growers, not all of whom allow their name to be attached to the wine.
The next wine tasted is Diana’s Vineyard 2020 Pinot Noir. Diana is Evan’s mother. They planted these grapes in 2011. There are 5 different clones in Diana’s Vineyard, and they try to keep them separate all the way through production in small batches. William tells about how he handles each one differently, including individual choices of individual barrels. Dan Berger says it is very fresh and young and has potential for aging.
Hugh and Dan.
Quivira Vineyards winemaker Hugh Chappelle joins California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke. Barry Herbst, the wine buyer at Bottle Barn, is also in the studio today.
Holly and Henry Wendt founded Quivira Vineyards in 1981 and their first wines were released in 1983. They are located in the Dry Creek Valley. The new owners took over in about 2006.
The 140-year-old FigThere is a 140-year-old fig tree on the property which has become a landmark of the vineyard. That tree is the namesake of their Sauvignon Blanc.
Dan Berger describes the hillside property and gorgeous views. There are several hundred acres with about 82-84 under vine.
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Hugh entered the wine industry by answering a help wanted ad off a 3×5 card, at UC Santa Cruz, Nicasio Vineyards. That is where he learned about wine. He was a Chemistry major at first. Having caught the wine bug, he decided to make it a career. He started the UC Davis graduate program in 1989. Before Quivira he worked at Linmar Estates, 2004-2009 vintage. He was at Flowers for 4 vintages before that.
There is a Coho and Steelhead Salmon spawning river called Wine Creek on the property. The owners have dedicated themselves to restoration of the creek, in collaboration with state and private agencies.
There is a special garden at the winery. There are 110 raised beds where they cultivate anything that grows in Dry Creek Valley, fruits, vegetables, cut flowers, culinary and medicinal herbs, olive trees and more. Quivira started practicing organic farming in the late 1990s. They are biodynamic certified, which is a difficult process.
Quivira TastingsThey are tasting a Rosé, which is very dry, spectacular, says Dan. It was bottled about a month ago, a is single vineyard estate grown, a blend of Grenache (59%), Counois, Mourvedre, Petit Syrah and Primitivo. This wine is inspired by Provençal Rosés, but done in Dry Creek. Because they pick these grapes early, they have more freedom in the winery to take care of the grapes, since it comes in before the rest of the harvest rush.
Next there is a Sauvignon Blanc to taste. It is actually a 75-25 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. It’s an alter ego to their well-known Fig Tree Vineyard SV.
Quivira Vineyards offers tastings, in their Healdsburg location.
Dan Berger & Kerry Damskey
Williamson Wines winemaker Kerry Damskey is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. The last time he was on CWC was this episode of March 21, 2018. Kerry is an independent winemaking consultant with clients around the world under the name Terroir Artisan Wines.
Before we begin, Dan Berger has brought another Cellar Dweller to discover and discuss, a 2016 Tercos and comes from Argentina. The grape is Torrantes. It was really floral and tropical when he first tasted it and now it is drier. The location is at the foot of the Andes in the Mendoza region. When Dan visited there, it was in the middle of their summer and there was snow on the distant Andean peaks. The aromatic profile of this varietal is roses, citrus and melon. It was not supposed to be aged this long but Dan lost it in the cellar. The importer is in San Francisco so this wine is more available in the Bay Area than anywhere else.
Williamson WinesThe Williamson winery was founded in 1980. The founders Don and Bill Williamson are the great grand-children of immigrants transported to Australia in 1788. Their home vineyard is in Dry Creek but they source fruit from all over Sonoma County. Kerry’s first vintage for Williamson was 2006.
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Kerry Damsey grew up in Berkeley and went to UC Davis for viticulture and enology. He worked overseeing a large winery in Lodi, then moved to San Diego County where he met Dan Berger. He was the winemaker in a new winemaking area outside San Diego County that his wife said looked like the moon. Gamay was Dan’s favorite wine that Kerry makes and Kerry is making Gamay again now, with his son.
Williamson Wines has a tasting room for the public and another one that is exclusively for their reserve wines. They are in Healdsburg on Matheson Street.
Tasting Williamson WinesThe first wine is a 2021 Pinot Noir, called Passion. The fruit comes predominately from the Vine Hill area of Russian River Valley. Its typicity is rose petal flavors. It is very young but the ripe cherry flavors are prominent. Dan thinks it will be better after a couple of years. 2021 was a perfect vintage. There were no fires, a drought year, so a small crop. It’s Pinot Noir heaven there, near Dehlinger, Merry Edwards and Emeritus (and Balletto).
“Vine Hill Road is probably right at the top.”
They do a sparkling Malbec and a sparkling Shiraz. Dan explains that the tannins in red wines make them difficult to make sparkling. Kerry explains how he does it.
The Williamson tasting room has mostly red wines but they also do some Riesling, Charnonnay and Gewurtztraminer. See the website for the latest offerings. They do a seated tasting with wine and selected cheeses and food bites. Tastings begin every 90 minutes from 11am-5pm daily. They also have an unusual selection of fine cheeses.
They also taste a wine called Ravish, from 2014. This would be a wine from the reserve tasting room. It is a Bordeaux blend mostly Merlot, with some Cabernet Franc. Appellation is Dry Creek Valley. It is a dark color but softer with lower tannins.
Glenn Hugo
Glenn Hugo, the winemaker at Girard Winery in Calistoga visits California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. Tom Simoneau is also here today. Before working in wine production, Glenn worked in the restaurant industry. He travelled around the country to open restaurants and one of his jobs was to write wine lists. He married and moved to Napa 20 years ago where he learned winemaking from many mentors in the business.
CarnerosFirst, they taste the 2021 Girard Chardonnay from Carneros. They decided to use the term “Los Carneros” so as not to favor Napa or Sonoma since they have estate vineyards in both counties. The family grew grapes for a long time and sold them to other winemakers. When they saw those wines win awards, they decided to start making wine themselves. They are located in Calistoga, in a place that Tom Simoneau describes as beautiful and stunning. They are open for tastings by appointment.
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Dan Berger got to know Steve Girard very well when he founded the property in the 1980s. It was a very rugged place at first. They used to make dry Chenin Blanc. The brand was off the market for a few years before they started rebuilding it after 2000.
Two Ways to Make ZinfandelNext they taste a Zinfandel, blended from various vineyards. The two main ones are in Southeast Napa, about 50 year old vines, and Calistoga vines are about 100 years old. He likes the combination of those two. They each bring something. They use a combination of American, French and Hungarian oak. Dan says Zinfandel does not need a lot of aging and the higher alcohol ones don’t age well. Tom says you lose the warm blackberry fruit flavors of Zinfandel which it will lose if it ages too long. There is a difference between wines made for the cellar versus wines made to be opened after 3-4 years.
Glenn started working at Provenance Winery for Tom Rinaldi, an influential winemaker in the Rutherford AVA of Napa Valley. He describes a mocha powder note in the fruit that comes from there.
Glenn also brought a field blend to taste. They are not sure exactly which varieties are in it.
Dan Berger, the Balletto Vineyard Portrait
Dan Berger, winemaker? Of course! Dan is back with Steve Jaxon and Harry Duke in part 2 of the story of Dan’s career as a journalist that ends up with him making Riesling. Part 1 is here. The episode begins with the story of Dan’s book about basketball. He also wrote for the NFL for one year, for their magazine called “Pro!” which was the outer portion of the stadium programs for the whole league. The local team provided the inside portion. He had an office at the corner of Wilshire and Westwood in Los Angeles, near UCLA.
The Story of the Corked RieslingHe was bored with the restaurants while covering sports on the road so one night he ordered seafood and noticed that the wine tasted bad. The waiter agreed that it was corked and told Dan that with good taste perception like that, he could have a career in wine. While he was the San Diego sports columnist he also wrote three articles a week about wine.
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The Dan Berger International Wine CompetitionIn 1982 Dan Berger founded the Riverside International Wine Competition. He was tired of the numerical scores on wines and felt that gold medals meant more when they were the product of the judgement of a panel of qualified judges. By the late ‘80s the idea took hold and he still runs The Dan Berger International Wine Competition, an annual competition under his own name.
When an editor asked him to cover “high tech” in 1983. Sorrento Valley in San Diego was where several new technology companies were started, including chips and cell phones. The community was connected to UC San Diego which was an important center for new technology. about the brand.
“Journalism calls for analysis. You can’t write a story based on just one single source. You have to ask all the questions that nobody wants to ask… A good journalist is going to look at every single angle before putting a single work on paper.”
Dan has been to Australia 23 times, 15 for judging and the other 8 times for interviews. He has been to New Zealand 9 times. “I think New Zealand is one of the greatest countries in the world.”
He wrote a book about San Diego, called “San Diego, where Tomorrow Begins” although the publisher didn’t like his title, “San Diego, City with a Mission” for some reason. After making an offhand comment about being able to write such a book, his friend called him later to say he had a publisher for him.
Dan Berger, WinemakerThe reason that Dan’s competition exists is that he believes winemakers are the best judges and so many of the top winemakers in wine country are his judges. Dan has just started producing a Riesling, too. He is also involved in a project based on “changing how wine is being produced.” Stay tuned.
Carol Shelton & Dan Berger.
Carol Shelton has brought Wild Thing wines and others labeled under her own name, on California Wine Country today. She is back on the show with Steve Jaxon, Harry Duke and Dan Berger. Her last time on the show was this episode of July 22, 2020, available here.
The Carol Shelton Wines website has extensive history about her and her work. She was at UC Davis and wanted to study poetry. Her mother said, “Poets don’t eat.” So the message was delivered and she found the wine major which was a perfect blending of her interests. In the class of 1978 there were only two women, now there are about a quarter of the graduating class. When she left Davis she started at Mondavi in Napa and Buena Vista winery in 1980. She worked with André Tchelicheff there. Carol remembers how André brought in modern equipment necessary to make good wine consistently. She credits his influence in helping her make wines that age well.
A winery in an industrial parkCarol’s operation is in an industrial park, which may not be romantic and super attractive, but it is an efficient way to keep the business running. They are careful about processing water so they keep the solids out of the storm drains.
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They taste the Coquille Blanc 2021, which is a combination of different varieties in the blend. Coquille means scallops in French, and is named after the shells on her family’s coat of arms. Grenache Blanc is the base but there is also Roussanne and Viogner. Dan says that blending is a lot of work, because you have to taste a lot of wine. They barrel ferment and they stir every barrel every week for months.
Next they taste the Wild Thing Rendez-vous Rosé. It is a darker Rosé. The Provençal style is paler. This is more like an Italian rosato, where they keep the skins on a little more, making it a darker shade of pink. The juice stays on the skins for two full days, which imparts more flavor, richness and color.
Dan Berger, the Balletto Vineyard Portrait
Dan Berger, longtime co-host of California Wine Country takes center stage on the show today, with Steve Jaxon and Harry Duke. Harry Duke describes a 32-point sheet that Dan brought, full of stories from his life. Dan ends up telling about several of those stories, in this show and the next one a week later.
In the 1950s his parents won a Pepsodent toothpaste contest by writing 25 words about the brand in clever rhyming couplets. The prize was a lot of money. The family moved from Brooklyn to Los Angeles in 1949. Dan attended Fairfax High School where he was in a barbershop quartet that won the LA city championship. While a student at UCLA he sang in the a capella choir and even performed at the Hollywood Bowl. He also sang the Messiah in Amy Semple Macpherson’s temple for several years.
Journalist and ReporterHe became night sports editor at AP and covered track and field for AP at the Munich Olympics in 1972, where he ended up covering the terrorist attack as well. All the other correspondents were off their beats because of a lot of the events were over, but Dan was there.
Dan also covered a fatal plane crash in Samoa and got the story of how one of the few survivors made it out alive. He was working at AP in Los Angeles and told his editor “…if you need anybody, I speak the language.” Later his editor offered to send him there and asked him what language they speak. “English, it’s an American possession,” he replied.
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He was a general assignment reporter and sportswriter. He was sent to cover the Patty Hearst kidnapping in San Francisco. When land lines were the only phones, he made sure he was the only reporter who could use the only available phone and he beat the competition by six minutes. Back then, that was an eternity for competitive reporters.
Track & Field, Football, Basketball and BaseballHe also wrote a book about basketball called Basketball, the Sports Playbook, published by Doubleday. They were publishing a series on different sports and the first draft of the book on basketball was a non-starter. The editor asked if Dan could write the book on short notice and he accepted the job. He sat down with his friend Pete Newell, the head coach at Cal, and wrote the book in three weeks.
One time, he was leaving the Dodger clubhouse, he was the only reporter who knew about the retirement of Don Drysdale. Another reporter asked him if there was any news and he simply replied, No. He was not obliged to share the scoop.
After ten years at the AP he took a job writing for the NFL, where he worked on their magazine called “Pro!” All the writers were great journalists but after a year he wanted to get back into real journalism.
The Corked RieslingHis interest in wine came from too many late nights covering sporting events. After games, all the sports writers would gather to go out to dinner and the only food was steak, potatoes and beer. He wanted something different, so they went out for seafood and ordered a bottle of German Riesling. He thought the wine smelled terrible. The waiter agreed it was corked. He said that Dan had a good palette, enough to have a career in wine. After he had been writing about wine for a few years, based in San Diego, he was invited to judge in Healdsburg in 1981. He moved to Sonoma County in 1986.
In 1982 Dan Berger founded the Riverside International Wine Competition. He was tired of the numerical scores on wines that meant nothing. He felt that gold medals from qualified judges meant more. Dan still runs The Dan Berger International Wine Competition, which published its results online going back to 2016.
Lisa Amaroli, winemaker, Benziger Family Winery
This podcast show is originally from August 19, 2020, featuring Lisa Amaroli, winemaker, and Chris Benziger, from Benziger Family Winery. (Due to a schedule pre-empt for an Nba game, there is no new CWC show this week.)
Lisa Amaroli, winemaker at Benziger Family Winery, and Chris Benziger both join Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. Chris’ family founded the winery in the early 1970s and Lisa Amaroli has been their winemaker since 1999.
Chris Benziger tells the family story. His grandfather was a bootlegger during Prohibition. After WWII, he came back, legitimized his liquor distribution business, then Chris’ eldest brother Mike moved to California to the Livermore Valley for a winery called Stoney Ridge. They called it the reform school for grapes, they used fruit that nobody else wanted. His brother and father decided to go into the wine business and the whole family moved from New York City to Sonoma. They bought an old ranch that had been vacant since Prohibition.
Their success started with the 1981 Sonoma County Harvest Fair. It was Dan Berger’s first wine competition as a judge. The family made Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet. In a big surprise, they won the sweepstakes, N.1 with Sauvignon Blanc and 2nd with the Chardonnay. This put them on the map.
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Bottle Barn has a new app, which makes it even easier to place orders from their vast stock. They have an enormous task, due to their huge inventory, but their goal is to have their whole stock available online. Bottle Barn also does 3 emails per week, with special offers.
Dan finds that their Sauvignon Blanc is a lot like a white Bordeaux. It has so much acid, a 3.03 pH so it needs the contact with lees to build creaminess. Dan says that SV made like this is a rare treat. Instead of green herbaceous flavors, you get stressed vines, so you get more minerality and steeliness from the variety. It’s unusual to have mountain-grown SV.
Lisa lived in Heidelberg and visited France enough to fall in love with their practices of food and wine. Back in the US, a friend encouraged her to go to college and she attended Sonoma State studying Biology and Chemistry. Instead of medicine she found that she might find work in the wine business and got a job working for Kerry Damskey. (Kerry Damskey was on California Wine Country on this episode in March of 2018.) He put her to work sampling grapes and she was hooked. She has taken lots of classes at UC Davis and has had lots of mentors over the years. She’s glad that the Benzigers let her make their commercial brands with total trust and nothing but support. “It’s been a really great experience to be a woman winemaker at Benziger.”
They are tasting a 2017 which was a fire year. Chris lost his house to fire, but managed to save some bottles from his wine collection by throwing them into the swimming pool before evacuating. Chris calls Chardonnay the blank canvas of wines, in that it can come out many different ways depending on how it is grown and treated.
Mark, Tom and Barry.
California Wine Country today features some 2023 SF Chronicle Wine Competition winners, with Mark Klaver who joins Harry Duke, Tom Simoneau and Barry Herbst in the studio. Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger are away this week.
Mark Klaver is the Marketing and Sponsorship Director for the San Francisco Chronicle wine competition, which takes place in Cloverdale. Formerly, its name was the Cloverdale Citrus Fair Wine Competition but the Chronicle took it over as a sponsor in 2000. There were 5500 wines, over three days, with 16 panels of three judges each and a total of 55 judges so each day. Each judge has 100-120 wines, plus best-in-class tastings, for a total of probably about 150.
This website “Wine Judging dot com” the SF Chronicle Wine Competition in great detailn.
The Competition FormatEach judge gets 10 numbered glasses, and a tally sheet. If all three judges pick Gold, the wine wins a Double Gold. Mark Klaver describes it as a west coast style of judging. Subsequently, the judges can discuss their choices and modify or add a plus or a minus to a rating. There is a coordinator who facilitates the panel’s work.
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Barry Herbst says it’s a very helpful process and helps judges to have more certainty with their choices. It is possible for a category or an entry to have no awards. About 80% of the wines will get an award of some type. This year about 30% got gold, 25% silver and 20% bronze. There is about 15-20 minute turnaround time in a category and Barry describes setting aside his best wines to taste them against the other best ones, before the end of the round.
Tasting DiscussionThey begin tasting a 2021 Gruner Veltliner, called Reustle from Umpqua Valley in Oregon. This has some white pepper and grapefruit flavors and is slightly sweet. It is a versatile grape for adventurous growers. Mark remembers only eight Gruner Veltliners in this year’s competition, two more than last year. This wine was named “White Sweepstakes Winner”, the award for top white wine.
The website shows all of this year’s winners, and those from the last five years. There is a total of 209 categories, all of which award a best-in-class, but there are only six sweepstakes winners.
Next is the 2020 V. Sattui Napa Valley Chardonnay, which shared the White Sweepstakes Winner award with the Reustle Gruner Veltliner. V. Sattui’s wines are only available at the winery. It’s a classic California style oak-fermented rich and creamy Chard. The color is a remarkable rich yellow. The two wines that shared the white sweepstakes award are quite different, which is a remarkable fact. The Gruner Veltliner is a modestly priced aromatic white and the V. Sattui Chardonnay is an expensive, big bold style.
A very different ChardonnayThe 2021 ZD Wines Chardonnay is a very different Chardonnay, with more citrus flavors, not fat and buttery. ZD Wines is in the middle of Napa Valley and has a reputation for Chardonnay. This goes for about $36 at Bottle Barn, although it’s listed at $42 on the report. It uses American oak, so it has a leaner character. J Lohn also has a Chardonnay that uses American oak, which is also less expensive.
Mark describes the judges as being not only in the wine industry but also in the trade, in the world of hospitality and distribution. They want to evaluate the wines from their point of view, sommeliers, winemakers and retailers all have different expectations and criteria. They also have some younger judges which they find beneficial to the competition.
The next tasting is the Sweepstakes Winner for Red wines, a Dry Creek Vineyard 2019 Terroir Series Cabernet Sauvignon. This was judged in the $54-60 range.
Next there is a St. Anne’s Crossing 2020 Malbec, which shows how good Malbec is starting to come from California. Most of the wineries use their Malbec for their Bordeaux blends.
The Florence Rockpile Vineyard 2020 Zinfandel was the final tasting, off the air.
Dan, Harry and Anthony.
Balletto Vineyards winemaker Anthony Beckman is our guest on California Wine Country today, with Dan Berger and Harry Duke. Steve Jaxon is away today. Anthony has been on the show before, the last time was this show in August of 2019.
Balletto Vineyards today has more than 800 acres of vines and produces all of its own wine from its own grapes. They were a very successful vegetable farm before deciding to convert to growing grapes. Dan Berger describes his favorite photograph of himself, in which he is holding two wine glasses, taken in one of the Balletto vineyards.
Anthony Beckman has brought three bottles to taste and discuss, all from the Sexton Hill vineyard. There is a 2019 Chardonnay and two Pinot Noirs, one from 2019 and the other is a 2011.
They grow many varietals and use about 10% of the grapes to make their own wine. They sell the rest to other winemakers. Sexton Hill is on the road out of Santa Rosa toward Sebastopol. Anthony remembers John Balletto bringing him a map of it and told him he wanted him to design the vineyard. It turned out to be one of the best places possible to grow Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It was an old apple orchard. He was excited because they knew it was an ideal site for world class wine. The first crop was made into the 2011 and this is the Sexon Hill Pinot Noir from that year.
First, the Chardonnay.They taste the Chardonnay first. Dan Berger says that it is such a cold area that planting Chardonnay was considered a risk, but, “it panned out like a charm.” The Chardonnay is the 2019 Sexton Hill Vineyard, native yeast ferment, native ML ferment, all done in oak. The acidity gives it weight and balance. Dan says the aromatics have some tropical fruit and the traditional citrus notes, but it’s already 3 years old and while it may benefit from further aging, it is ready now. It is wrong to assume that white wines aren’t for aging. A good 10-year-old Chardonnay is a revelation to most people. It’s understandable that if people spend $50 on a bottle of wine they want to drink it right away.
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Anthony Beckman describes the career he left in order to get into wine. He was a project manager in San Francisco but knew it was time to make a big change. The advisor at UC Davis told him to go work a harvest before deciding to study enology. He did that at Quivera in Dry Creek and fell in love with the process. He went right from there to New Zealand and then back to take all the science classes he needed to get into Davis. While at Davis he worked at Taylor’s market in Sacramento where he was the wine buyer. In 2002-2003 he was stocking Balletto wines.
Next, the Pinot NoirsNext they taste the 2011 Pinot Noir from the Sexton Hill. Anthony says it had the strongest tannins of any Pinot Noir he had ever seen, so he had to adjust his technique. Dan says it is delicious, soft and silky and that it has matured very well. The 2019, next up, also had great acidity and promises to age well. This 2019 right now is exuberant like a 2-year-old child. Dan tastes the future in this wine. The color is light, which Dan prefers. Normally a wine like this would be $75 dollars but it sells for $50.
All the Balletto Vineyards single-vineyard wines are only available at the vineyard. But their bigger productions are at Bottle Barn and in retail locations and restaurants all over Sonoma County and northern California.
Barry Herbst, Bottle Barn’s wine buyer.
We feature low alcohol wines with Barry Herbst of Bottle Barn and Steve Jaxon, Harry Duke and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. Barry has brought some interesting wines that are not like the usual ones we discuss on this show, as these are low-alcohol and non-alcoholic wines.
The first is a Tyler Chardonnay from Lompoc in Santa Barbara County. It reminds Dan Berger of a Chablis, but with interesting aromatics. Low alcohol wines can be made by picking the grapes early, before too much sugar develops. Barry Herbst describes the process of pruning the canopy to allow plenty of light onto the grapes, which also help keep the sugars from getting too high but allow for phenolic ripeness. This wine retails for $27 at Bottle Barn.
They have also tasted a non-alcoholic wine, the best-selling one in the store. It comes from Leitz, a German producer who also produces regular wines as well as a de-alcohol-ed sparkling Rose, Riesling and Pinot Noir. It’s an odd wine in that it doesn’t smell like the usual sparkling wine, but the texture and flavors are very good. It is amazingly dry for a non-alcoholic beverage. Usually, in order to give these body and sweetness, they add sugar, but not in this case. For anyone who does not want to drink alcohol or who cannot, for any reason, this is a very nice choice. This retails for $18.50.
The problem with some non-alcoholic wines, is they make the wine then remove the alcohol, which removes the flavor. This is done in a way that simply reduces the alcohol as it is made.
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Bottle Barn has a new app, which makes it even easier to place orders from their vast stock. They have an enormous task, due to their huge inventory, but their goal is to have their whole stock available online. Bottle Barn also does 3 emails per week, with special offers.
After that, they taste an Aligoté, which is only 11.2 percent alcohol. Read about Aligoté here. It is a Burgundian white variety that is known for adding acidity and structure in blended whites and sparkling wines. Dan Berger would call it soft, instead of sweet. It is very uncommon. This Earnest Aligoté wine sells for $25.99.
Next up is a Pinot Noir with a ripe cherry and black cherry component, but also has a little trace of the herb component that you see in Burgundy. The alcohol is so low that it gives you a finish that is perfect to accompany a meal. The wine is Anthill Farms 2020 Mendocino County Pinot Noir, 13.2% alcohol. That’s low for today but Dan points out that years ago, wines used to average about that. It sells for $47.99 but would sell for about $60 anywhere else, says Dan. The winemakers used to work for Williams-Selyem so they know their Pinot Noir.
Next there is Porter Creek 2018 Carignane, 12.3% alcohol. Even with a hamburger or a pizza, this would go very well. It sells for $30.99 at Bottle Barn. Carignane is a “workhorse variety” that gives plushness and rich fruit when the vines are old, such as this wine. Again, the lower alcohol makes it perfect for combining with food.
Barry Herbst reports that there is rising demand for lower-alcohol wines and wines produced with some kind of organic and/or biodynamic technique.
A Cline old vine.
Fred Cline and his daughter Hilary Cline from Cline Family Cellars join Steve Jaxon, Harry Duke and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. Fred Cline was last on California Wine Country on this episode in 2018.
He made his first commercial wine in the early ’80s in Oakley, California, then moved to the Sonoma Carneros area in 1989. But he made wine with his grandfather too. In 1982 he had graduated from UC Davis and purchased the old Firpo winery which closed in the 1930s. Hilary has six siblings and sister Megan and brother Henry also work at the winery. Tom Gendall was named head winemaker in 2020. Katie Hoggins is also a winemaker there. She and Tom Gendall both are New Zealanders. Their profiles are all on this page of the Cline Family Cellars website.
All the wines that they brought today are from a new Sonoma AVA tier. This Chardonnay comes from their ranch in Carneros. They also have the Fog Swept Pinot Noir from Sonoma Coast, the Eight Spur Zinfandel from Dry Creek and a Cab from Alexander Valley. These three wines make up a new tier in the Cline portfolio.
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Hat Strap and Fog SweptThe Chardonnay is called Hat Strap because of the winds in Carneros. They had trouble with the wind, which was blowing down glasses in the tasting room and blowing hats off heads too.
Dan Berger says that the Cline Family Cellars wines are interesting because many of them come from ancient vines. Even the vines they originally planted are 25 years old.
Next they pour the Fog Swept Pinot Noir, from the Sonoma Coast appellation. Dan Berger asks about a clone listed on the label that he doesn’t know, clone 31. It’s a blend of 115, 5 and 31.
At the beginning before they planted their vineyards, they were looking for a wine company that would grow grapes on the property, and they found Gallo. Fog Swept is the name of this wine.
They accept reservations and also walkins. In January they are doing two-for-one tastings. They are located in the Carneros region.
Tom Simoneau, co-owner of Simoneau Vineyards is here with his annual Wines of the Year show for 2022, on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon, Harry Duke and Dan Berger. Every year, Tom Simoneau brings us his favorite wines of the year at the end of December. You can hear the episodes for 2018, 2019, 2020 and 2021 here on the CWC website and you can read about the years 2017, 2016 and 2015 on Tom’s website.
Book of the YearFood IQ, 100 Questions, Answers, and Recipes to Raise Your Cooking Smarts by Daniel Holzman & Matt Rodbard. ($35)
You’re probably thinking Food IQ? Is that a wine book? Well, wine is food, sans aucune doute, e senza dubbio! The more you become involved with wine, you will tend to choose wine to match what you’re serving for dinner. So this fun and informative cookbook will help even the most timid cook take a walk on the wild side! The extensive website is a bonus, www.foodiq.co
On the following list of Tom Simoneau’s Wines of the Year for 2022, the wines are listed with their approximate retail price, and those available at Bottle Barn are marked with @BB after the price.
Best WhitesSparkling WineCaraccioli Cellars 2016 Blanc de Blancs, Escolle Vineyards, Santa Lucia Highlands, $85. I love my job! Every year I discover something new. This year it’s Caraccioli Cellars. This sparkler took my breath away. Tiny, tiny bubbles that tickle the tongue. Can a glass smile? With this wine in it, it does. Winemaker Scott Caraccioli says all the wines he makes are estate grown, so he has complete control. And it shows up in the glass. They make small lots, so their wine club is highly recommended. caracciolicellars.com
ChardonnayCuvaison 2020 Coeurtina, Napa Valley, Los Carneros, $60. We recently learned that there are now 8 billion people in the world today. That’s almost as many Chardonnay brands on the market! But, I’m up to the challenge. I’ll taste them all so you don’t have to. This Cuvaison Coeurtina Chard is one you do not want to miss. From its shimmering gold color, to its floral aroma and complex mouth feel, what else do you need? Maybe a nice piece of salmon? Check out their beautiful facility in Carneros. cuvaison.com
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Sauvignon BlancDry Creek Vineyards 50th Anniversary 2021 Fume Blanc, Sonoma County, $16, @ BB All together now – Celebration now, come on, du ta du da du du. Not much of a singer but Dry Creek Vineyards brings me to song. Celebrating 50 years, that’s a long time! 50 years ago founder Dave Stare planted Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek Valley. Today his daughter, Kim and her husband, Don Wallace, run the winery. Can I call them the first family of Dry Creek Valley? Why not! Here’s to the next 50! drycreekvineyard.com
Off Dry WhiteMorgan 2021 Double L Vineyard Riesling, Santa Lucia Highlands, $24, @BB. Morgan opened their doors in 1982 after Dan Morgan Lee met a banker that shared his vision of starting a winery. That banker would eventually become his wife. Wondering what a really good California Riesling tastes like, wonder no more. From grapes grown on the only certified organic vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highland. These foot stomped grapes made a 10.6% alc. wine showing apple and white peach, more fruity than sweet. Kabinett style. Bright and dry. morganwinery.com
Most Fun WineHarry, Tom, Dan & Steve.
19 Crimes, Martha’s Chard, California Chardonnay, $11.99, @BB Can you ever have too much of a good thing? Now, a Martha Stewart Wine. Let’s see, Martha’s name appears on cookbooks, magazines, TV shows, home wares, restaurants, mail order meal kits, she’s also a home designer and now wine! Martha, what took you so long? With a click from the back of the bottle, Martha tells you all about it. Who knew? Even her bottle talks. Click and hear her for yourself. Martha’s Chard, it’s a good thing. https://19crimes.com/products/19-crimes-marthas-chard
Sweet WhiteFerrari Carano 2018 Eldorado Gold, Dry Creek Valley, Botrytised Semillon, $30 for the 375ml. Late harvest wines are probably the most disrespected and under-appreciated of all wines. If a late harvest wine could talk, it would say “I get no respect.” The famous noble rot (Botrytis cinerea, read about it here) is responsible for the invisible sweetness in the nose, delicate and rich in the mouth. Did anyone say dessert? After tasting, Amy, my niece said think crème brulee or apple pie and I second that. Enjoy your Christmas dessert with Ferrari Carano’s Eldorado Gold. ferrari-carano.com
Alternative WhiteEmeritus Vineyards 2021 Hallberg Blanc, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, $42. Emeritus was founded in 1999 by legendary vintner Brice Cutrer Jones after he sold Sonoma-Cutrer. The baton is now being passed to the capable hands of his daughter, Mari Jones, a rising young star in wine country who was featured on California Wine Country on this episode, last September. This Hallberg Blanc is 100% Pinot Noir with no blush to it. A great alternative to Chardonnay, all white peach, strawberry, and a hint of pineapple. emeritusvineyards.com
Luxury WineStonestreet Estate Vineyards, Upper Barn 2019 Chardonnay, Alexander Valley, $150, @BB So here’s the question: what is the best vineyard in California? You could argue Beckstoffer’s George III, Mondavi’s To Kalon I Block, you could go on and on and on. I’m here to talk about what I call a hero Chardonnay. From the 40 year old Upper Barn Vineyard from Stonestreet. 25 acres on multiple blocks planted on AXR 1 rootstock producing less that a ton per acre of the most outrageously flavored, complex, take your breath away Chardonnay you’ll ever taste. I know it’s expensive, but worth the splurge! stonestreetwines.com
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Best Value WhiteJ Lohr Winery, 2021 Riverstone Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco Monterey County, $14, @BB Classic cool region Chardonnay flavors at any price never mind 14 bucks and often discounted. Floral with citrus and white peach. Only 62% malolactic. At J. Lohr they say they make REAL Chardonnay. I say amen to that. j.lohr.com
RoséUltimate Provence, 2021 AOP Cotes de Provence, $21.99, @BB Not since White Zinfandel and Merlot exploded on the wine scene has a category of wine taken off like Rosé. But unlike White Zin and Merlot, Rosés are still gaining market share. Winemakers have embraced “the pink”. Long gone are the out of balance, high alcohol after thoughts. The best are getting better. Now not only do you see high end California Rosés, but more from the birthplace of Rosés, Provence. High quality Rosés are much easier to find. This Ultimate Provence is a stunner. Packed with flavor and a show stopping package. provencerose.com
Best RedsCabernet SauvignonJordan 2018 Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, $60, @BB From the winery that helped define Alexander Valley as one of California’s premier growing regions for Cabernet Sauvignon. 2022 marks the fiftieth Anniversary since Tom & Sally Jordan founded the Jordan property. Through those fifty years and all the ups and downs of the wine business, Jordan has always held true to making wines of elegance and balance. This 2018 is an example of just that. jordanwinery.com
ZinfandelPezzi King 2019 The Jester, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, $30. From 1 of the 11 boutique wineries in the portfolio of Wilson Artisan Wineries, The Jester is a Zin that comes with directions. Check the back label, which reads, “Caution: Consuming this wine with your family and friends may cause one to recite ballads and indulge in witty repartee!” It goes on. You’ll have to buy a bottle, if you want more of The Jester, from the Zin master Chris Barrett. pezziking.com
MerlotFreemark Abbey, 2018 Napa Valley Merlot, $45, @BB The history of Freemark Abbey reads like a Hollywood script. Established in 1886 it has weathered bankruptcy, phyloxera, prohibition and more owners that you can imagine, including a guy named Freeman, a guy named Mark, and a guy named Abbey, Freemark Abbey. Today the owners Jackson Family Wines have stabilized things. With a taste of this Merlot, you’ll know what I mean, fruit forward and balanced. A trip to Freemark Abbey in St. Helena is highly recommended. freemarkabbey.com
Rhone WineKobler Estate Winery 2019 Syrah Cuvee du Brouillard, $58. Remember Little Red Riding Hood, Grandma’s house? Well, the Kobler story begins when Grandma Kobler planted three acres of wine grapes. Fast forward to today and it’s still all in the family. Syrah is their flagship wine. This 2019, a blend of 95% Syrah and 5% Viognier is a California Cote-Rotie. Kobler, tiny lots from a little piece of paradise in Green Valley. koblerestatewinery.com
Best Buy RedBogle Family Vineyards 2019 Essential Red, California, $11, @BB If you don’t know the Bogle story, you need to check it out. It all started in 1870 when Captain AJ Bogle moved to the California Delta from his family’s homestead in Tennessee. I’ll let you take it from there. Today with 6 generations of farming and 50 years of wine growing, Bogle runs under the radar as a top notch California Winery. This Essential Red is worth twice the $11 price. Big and bold, begging for pepperoni pizza. Do check out their website, it’s quite a story. boglewinery.com
Pinot NoirCalera 2019 de Villiers Vineyard, Mt. Harlan, $85, @BB Calera’s Mt. Harlan Vineyards are located in the Gavilan Mountains 25 miles east of Monterey Bay at an average elevation of 2200 feet. It is among the highest and coolest vineyard sites in California. Taking his cue from the great domains of Burgundy, Central Coast wine pioneer, Josh Jensen searched for unique limestone soils to plant his vineyards. He found them on Mt. Harlan and named his winery Calera, the Spanish word for limekiln. A limekiln still stands on the property. This is my new favorite Pinot Noir. calerawine.com
Alternative RedFort Ross 2016 Pinotage, Fort Ross Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, $62, @BB Not familiar with Pinotage? Welcome to the club. First developed in South Africa in 1925, by crossing Pinot Noir with Cinsault, which was called Hermitage at the time. Don’t guess this is Pinot like, it’s more Rhone than Burgundy. Big and bold, savory and spicy, smoky and brambly. Our sensory system exists to be stimulated and this wine will do the trick. By far the most interesting wine I’ve tasted all year. fortrossvineyard.com
Tom Simoneau’s favorite Blended Red, from his 2022 Winery of the Year.
Blended RedChateau St. Jean 2018 Cinq Cepages, Sonoma County, Red Wine, $90, @BB The signature wine of Château St. Jean, Cinq Cepages, is French for five grapes. It is a blend of all five of the Bordeaux varietals. This 2018 is 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cab Franc, 7% Merlot, 2% Malbec, and 2% Petit Verdot. Chateau St. Jean’s Cinq Cepages, the French should be so lucky. chateaustjean.com
Winery of the YearChateau St. Jean! Extra! Extra! Start the presses… Start the presses! Wait a minute, shouldn’t that be stop the presses? I’m not talking about newspaper here. I’m talking about a winery. Foley Family Wines purchased Chateau St. Jean in 2021. The previous owners stopped making wine at the facility in 2016. New winemaker, Niki Williams, was charged with the task of setting up the winery for crush of 2022. She did it, a complete success! Look for big things at the Chateau as the remodel continues.
Tom Simoneau can be reached at: tom @ simoneau vineyards dot com.
Ross Reedy, VML winemaker.
Ross Reedy, VML Wine director of winemaking, joins Steve Jaxon, Harry Duke and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. He is director of winemaking at VML Wines. This is his first time on California Wine Country. They begin tasting their Chardonnay, called Sun.
The name VML comes from the name of their founding winemaker Virginia Murray Lambrick, who retired in 2018 and who was Ross Reedy’s mentor. He started there in 2012 “dragging hoses” happily doing grunt work and working his way up.
While tasting the 2021 Chardonnay blend that he made, he describes it as elegant and crisp with honeycomb, caramel and orange peel. It used about 30-33% new French oak. It’s 90% Russian River Valley and 10% Alexander Valley.
After that they taste another, a single vineyard Chardonnay. Making wine with his father in their garage got him interested at first. He attended Cal Poly San Luis Obispo for viticulture. He worked in Paso Robles for some winemakers and also traveled to Napa Valley and Australia, Argentina and New Zealand. Through all the jokes, it’s clear that he loves his work.
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Next they taste a Kent Ritchie Russian River Chardonnay, picked it a bit early so it has strong minerality is what they were striving for.
Book a TastingVML and Truett Hurst share a tasting room at 5610 Dry Creek Road in Healdsburg. Enter KSRO at their website as a discount code for a free cheese pairing at your tasting.
One of their tastings, The Celestial, featuring five wines from the Russian River Valley. The wines emphasize all the cardinal points around the territory: the Sun, the Earth, Moon and Stars. They are all Pinot Noir blends. The Stars the western influenced one. The Moon is balanced between coastal and inland. The Earth would be the big fruity bold jammy Pinot Noir. Taste whatever side of the spectrum you like. Get their wines in the tasting room in Healdsburg or at the website.
Outside, a simple sign. Inside, wow!
Jason Schneider and Lauren Patz join Steve Jaxon, Harry Duke and Dan Berger today on California Wine Country. Lauren Patz runs Redwood Empire Whiskey and Jason is the GM of Bottle Barn, where he is also in charge of the Spirits section. He wants the shop to have all the kinds of spirits that people want in addition to wine. They have also expanded the website, even if they can only ship spirits within the state of California.
Redwood Empire Whiskey is part of a larger company called Purple Brands. They make Raeburn Chardonnay and Scattered Peaks wines. The distillery was started in 2013 and whiskey started going into barrels in 2015. They started releasing in 2019.
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Bottled in BondFor a whiskey to be labeled “Bottled in Bond” it has to come from a single distillery, a single distilling season, has to be at least 100 proof and be aged 4 years. It was the first consumer protection act in the US.
Dan Berger has brought a bottle of wine from his cellar, usually it’s a well-aged wine but this is a 2019 Kite Trail Chardonnay. Generous and soft with some Carneros characteristics. He also brought a 2016 Ricardo Santos Semillon from Argentina.
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Wine Enthusiast magazine has named Bottle Barn one of the top wine retailers in the country. Dan Berger’s Wine of the Week in his weekly article in the Napa Register is usually one that is available at Bottle Barn.
Jason Schneider tells that Redwood Empire is the top selling local brand of whiskey, because of its high quality for its price. For a young distiller, the quality is very high already.
Redwood Empire BourbonThey taste a Redwood Empire Bourbon which they say has real personality, with a good finish. Even if this is wine country, and a wine show, Sonoma County has a lot of craft beer and spirits too. The local spirit industry has flourished along with winemaking and craft beer in successive waves of new distillers. Most of the distilleries in Sonoma County started with vodka and gin, in order to have product early on to sell, before the whiskey can come on line, due to the several years time required for the first bottling to be ready.
Then they taste their Bottled in Bond Rye Whiskey. It is a four-grain rye, but also some wheat, malted barley and 3% corn, which she says, you can’t taste it but you can feel it.
Alan Baker, co-founder of Cartograph Wines, joins Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke on California Wine Country. He has been a guest on this show a few times, most recently on February 17, 2021.
From Radio to Wine (and Back Again)He used to have a career in public broadcasting, 15 years at Minnesota Public Radio in Minneapolis / St. Paul, doing classical music programming. Wine got his interest during that time after one good bottle of Alsatian Riesling. That got him interested in moving to Healdsburg in 2005. Today he and his wife make wine together in Healdsburg, focused on Pinot Noir and Riesling. His background came from on the job and also he took some technical classes at UC Davis.
Dan Berger’s cellar wine this week is a 2016 Iron Horse Chardonnay from Green Valley, within Russian River Valley, and it is a great example of cool climate Chardonnay that “does not pull any punches.” It is at its peak now, 6 years later.
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In 2008 Alan Baker made his first commercial wine, a batch of Pinot Noir, at the Crush Pad in San Francisco. It was a place designed by Michael Brill to allow people to experience every step of making wine, in a small batch. He was making wine commercially and other people made it just to keep at home. 2009 was his first North Bay production. Alan is the hands-on farmer and winemaker and his wife manages the business and tasting room, and they study the blends together.
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They taste a 2020 Cartograph Riesling of Sonoma Valley, east of Santa Rosa. It is not too warm a place to grow Riesling with good citrus flavors. The Gould Vineyard is up at the top of the hill. He describes it as a pile of boulders with vines. Bennet Valley and Sonoma Valley are close to each other and this wine shows the personality of this region.
Pumpkin Pie and RieslingTo demonstrate how well Riesling goes with Thanksgiving flavors, Alan has brought pumpkin pie, to taste with the Cartograph Riesling. Cartograph isn’t in Bottle Barn because their production is so small, but it’s on a lot of local restaurant menus and at the tasting room.
They end up with a 2015 Pinot Noir from the hilltop between Anderson Valley and the Pacific Ocean. To qualify for Mendocino Ridge AVA you have to be 1200 feet above sea level, above the fog line, but 6 miles from the ocean so the cooling influence is still present. There is a lot of sunshine but the air is cool.
Dan and Dan, Berger and Barwick.
Dan Barwick, winemaker at Trecini Winery, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon, Harry Duke and Dan Berger. He has been a guest on this show a few other times, most recently on January 12, 2022, and before that on this episode of July 21, 2021.
Harrod’s of LondonDan Barwik’s first job was at Harrod’s in London. At the age of 19 he worked in the food halls, starting in the meat department. From there he worked in management and in the wine department during a promotion of French products. His job was to make sure each tasting had the right wine, glasses etc. so he got to taste all the wine and there were hundreds. Dan Barwick has worked in Sonoma County at many wineries including Matanzas Creek, Ferrari-Carano andParadise Ridge. Later he started Trecini with John Vicini in 1999. Dan Berger admires their wine because they are focused on good acidity.
Dan’s Cellar Dweller of the WeekDan Berger’s cellar wine this week is a 2007 Merlot from Twomey. Merlot got such a bad vibe from that movie but some Merlot if it was grown and made right is as good as anything else. The secret to this is 13.6 ABV. The higher alcohol wines don’t age as well. It still has vibrant fruit and the acid is still there. Dan Barwik reminds us that the acidity comes from picking at the right time, once ripe but not too ripe.
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Trecini also makes some wine in Italy and today’s show features some of those Italian Trecini wines that Dan Barwik makes. They begin with a Sardinian Vermentino from 2020. Vermentin0 is a crisp, bright, refreshing wine, that can be still or slightly bubbly. They sell it at the tasting room in downtown Santa Rosa located at 684 Seventh Street, on the corner of Seventh and Humboldt. They are open Friday, Saturday and Sunday for tastings and walk-in retail purchases. The Trecini California wines are some of the best value locally since they own all their own vineyards locally. They have a wonderful lineup of Californian and Italian wines, says Dan Berger. They have collected a lot of gold medals. These wines have delicacy and go well with food. The grapes are picked early enough to save the varietal character and acidity. The more it ripens, the more homogeneous the wine becomes.
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Sardinia (La Sardegna, in Italian)Sardinia is located in the Mediterranean west of Italy, south of Corsica and well north of Sicily. It is one of the 20 Regions of Italy. It resembles the American south-west so much that it was used as background for all of those “spaghetti westerns” of the 1960s that launched Clint Eastwood and Eli Wallach. The vines have ancient rootstocks common only in the Mediterranean. It is very hot and arid. There is beautiful coastline, excellent fishing, snorkeling, swimming and sailing, and also has some very high-end ports and resorts up in the northeast corner.
Next they taste a Moscato, which is sweet and usually served as a dessert wine. The label says 5% although it tastes more like 10%. If you like sweet wines, this is delicious, has good vibrancy and bright flavor.
Mike Kobler, winemaker from Kobler Estate Winery is Tom Simoneau's guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He tells the story about how his grandparents retired in the 1980s and purchased a 4-acre property in Dry Creek. His grandfather had to travel to South America for a final year of work, while his grandmother studied viticulture at Santa Rosa JC. She also hired Rich Thomas, who was a teacher. They began with Sauvignon Blanc and sold the grapes to well-known wineries. Mike and his parents moved to California from Virginia to be near their grandparents. The family then got involved in the vineyard. Mike was six years old and he remembers hating having to go out and prune vines in January in the rain.
They are tasting his 2021 Gewürztraminer which is completely dry, but not austere, because it has acidity in a range where it is soft and gentle on the tongue, says Dan Berger.
Mike describes his path to winemaking as unusual. He knew he did not want to go into engineering, and was attracted to economics. Consumer preferences are at the heart of that. While his fellow college students were drinking beer, he drank wine. He father had made wine as an amateur for 30 years. He has known the Bacigalupi family since his school days. He started with 500 cases of Syrah in 2010. Now he makes many others. He explains how they have kept costs down as they taste the Chardonnay. Their properties are actually in three AVAs, Sonoma Coast, Green Valley and Russian River Valley.
Oded Shakked, owner and winemaker at Longboard Vineyards, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He was last on the show in 2020 on this episode during the pandemic, when all the guests were calling in on the phone. Previously he was also on the show in 2018 on this episode. Oded is a surfer so that explains the name Longboard Vineyards. He has lived, worked and surfed on four continents, says his website.
Longboard Vineyards was founded in 1998, while Oded was a winemaker for J Vineyards. He started Longboard Vineyards as a hobby and he has been doing it solo since 2005. He speaks Hebrew, French, Spanish and English. Dan Berger likes Longboard's Pinot Noir and Oded credits his growers, including Rochioli.
Dan Berger brought another of his cellar wines today, a Silvaner, which is in a bottle shaped like the old Mateus bottles. It is very dry. Albariño Oded has brought an Albariño. There is also a Portuguese cousin that in that language is written Alvarinho. This is the wine he would drink while on surf trips to northern Spain and Portugal. The grapes are grown in Russian River Valley. Dan says that this wine has strong acidity. Oded wanted it to be strong like that but not too strong. It was fermented in neutral barrels. Chicken apple sausage is Dan's food pairing idea.
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Longboard Vineyards still makes sparkling wines, Brut, Brut Rosé and Brut Z with no sugar. Sauvignon Blanc is the one most found in distribution. He also makes a Rochioli Chardonnay and this Albarinño. The Albarinño is a semi-floral variety but it is a lot more serious than a Pinot Grigio. It also has some white peach flavors. Oded sums it up with one term: yummy! Carignane and Syrah He has also brought a Carignane. At one time this was one of the most popular varietals. It is from Vincenzo Vineyard in Mendocino County. He only sells it from the barrel into a growler. "Exotic, rustic, tasty,... pizza wine," declares Dan. It is a single vineyard. Oded descsribes cherry flavors in the bouquet.
The next wine to taste is a Longboard Syrah. Dan says to give it five or six more years. Oded suggests it would go with fish.
The winery is located in Healdsburg at 5 Fitch Street, open 11 am to 6 pm daily. They welcome walk-ins, but groups of 6 or 8 or more can make reservations.
Nick Goldschmidt
Winemaker and consultant Nick Goldschmidt of Goldschmidt Vineyards is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Co-host Harry Duke is back in the studio this week after his cross-country trip. Nick was on CWC on this episode on May 9, 2018. He was back for this episode on Aug. 19, 2020 with three wines named after his daughters, and once more in February of this year for this episode.
Goldschmidt Vineyards has an active Instagram page and this YouTube channel, where Nick posts videos about making wine both for his own production and for his clients in the northern and southern hemispheres.
Goldschmidt Vineyards has an active Instagram page and this YouTube channel, where Nick posts videos about making wine both for his own production and for his clients in the northern and southern hemispheres. Dan Berger says that having worked in New Zealand and Australia makes one a better winemaker.
His first vintage was 1998. He was a winemaker at Simi for 15 years. Louis Vuitton owned a lot of wineries around the world including Simi. At the age of 27 they put Nick in charge of blending still wines for their worldwide production. He got to travel around a lot. Today about half of his work is consulting, the rest is his own winemaking.
They taste the 2021 Forefathers Sauvignon Blanc. The Forefathers is what he calls the best appellation for that variety in the new world. Under the label the wine is called Waxie (pronounced Wax-eye). That is a bird that lives in New Zealand that eats all the grapes. Dan Berger describes an additional spice component in this wine that distinguishes it. Some of the best of this wine never leaves the country.
Nick describes how he uses juice-lees contact to let the wine fully develop texture. When they press the grapes they keep some pulp and skins and leave it for 10 days. Dan tastes fresh gooseberries and tropical fruit.
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Goldschmidt Vineyards website describes itself as dedicated to single vineyard sourced wines from Alexander Valley in Sonoma County and Napa Valley Oakville. They are also in New Zealand, Australia, Chile and Argentina. Four of his five children are involved in winemaking with him. His pandemic bubble had 9 people, five children and two partners and they went through 1500 bottles of wine in 19 months.
The 2021 Singing Tree Chardonnay is a field blend, no clones. No ML, but he doubles the lees. So he gets some of the creamy texture that usually comes from oak.
Rodney Strong is doing their Fall Maker’s Market on Saturday November 19 on the concert green at Rodney Strong, with artisinal gift vendors, snacks and mulled wine.
Nick brought the same wines as in 2018, but more recent vintages. He chose them because they are available at Bottle Barn.
“The other thing that’s really important about where it comes from are the age of the vine and the age of the winemaker.”
The 2021 Katherine Cabernet, named for one of Nick’s daughters, is the last wine they open. “If you want to make a young wine look soft, cook eggplant, because it has a lot of tannin.” Harry notes the black cherry color and flavor. Dan suggests it would go well with any red meat.
Lindsey Otis
Lindsey Otis, owner and winemaker of Lotis Wines, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. She attended UC Davis for enology and then worked in the southern and northern hemisphere, in order to do two harvests in one calendar year. The she worked for Williams Selyem from 2007 to 2010, then worked for Big Basis Vineyard rising as a winemaker. After making wine for so many other people for so long she wanted to express her own creative process so Lotis Wines was born in 2019.
Dan Berger tells how Greg La Follette suggested Lotis Wines. Dan describes purity of flavor in wine, which depends on good acidity. They taste a 2021 Rosé of Grenache from an old vineyard called Eagle Point Ranch, which lies at 2000 feet of elevation. The vines are 50 years old. The color is very light. Dan says it has the flavors and personality of Grenache. Lindsey explains that she wants the vineyard expression to show first, and for her to speak second. This wine is light and delicate because she did whole cluster press at minimum pressure, which minimizes the phenolic extraction and the color extraction.
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Lotis Wines has produced four types for 2022, Grenache, Rosé of Grenache, Vermentino and new this year, a Counoise. That is a rare grape variety from the Rhone Valley, with very little acreage in California. Vermentino They taste the 2021 Vermentino. This is a white Italian varietal very little planted in the US. These grapes came from Carneros. Francis Mahoney grows these grapes and Dan considers it the best Vermentino vineyard in California. The flavors are delicate yet powerful, says Dan. Carneros gets sea breezes so growing conditions resemble Liguria, which is the northwest Italian coast around Genoa.
Dan Berger sums up his appreciation of Lotis Wines this way: so many new winemakers have the ability to buy new barrels and impress people with those flavors. This wine has no barrels. The wine is all about the vineyard and the fruit.
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Tom Simoneau & Diane Bucher.
Diane Bucher of Bucher Wines joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. Tom Simoneau and Barry Herbst, wine buyer for Bottle Barn, are also in the studio. Diane and John Bucher were also on California Wine Country on this show back on June 13, 2018.
Wine Enthusiast magazine has named Bottle Barn one of the three best places to buy wine in California and one of the best in the country. Harvest Fair is on display in the store and there will be a public tasting on October 15 in the store for the first time after two years. Sunday the awards were announced and Bottle Barn is stocking up with the winning wines. Tom Simoneau, as a small wine producer, appreciates how Bottle Barn supports the small growers and producers. Every year there is a handful of new wineries that Barry has never heard of before.
Dan Berger has brought another cellar wine into the studio today. A 2020 MacRostie Pinot Noir from Petaluma Gap. It has great structure and great fruit. There is another MacRostie 2016 Pinot Noir, to taste later.
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Diane Bucher and her husband John planeted the first blocks of their vineyard in 1997. In 1999 Williams Selyem bought the first fruit. Tom Simoneau just had a 2012 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir from the Bucher vineyard. They grow Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and sell all the Chardonnay. Ram’s Gate is going to bottle a Bucher vineyard designate Chardonnay of 2021. They have 36 acres of Pinot and 2 of Chardonnay. On some nearby property they also grow Sauvignon Blanc and others. Their vineyards are all in the heart of the Russian River Valley AVA. Grand Cru Custom Crush They make their wine at Grand Cru Custom Crush in Windsor and that is where they hold their tastings too. There are about 20 wineries making wine there, at 1200 American Way in Windsor, one block south of the Russian River Brewing Company. They are in the warmer part of the Russian River Valley. Their Rosé, Zinfandel and Pinot Noir are on sale at the shop there too.
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They open the Bucher 2021 Rosé of Pinot Noir. It is a saignée Rosé, with bright acidity, watermelon and granny smith apple. Dan calls it delicate and fragrant. At 13.8% alcohol it is “astounding.” It sells for $35 retail.
As they open the next Pinot, the 2019 Bucher Vineyard Pinot Noir, a recent double gold winner from the Sonoma County Harvest Fair, which was announced just last Sunday. Bottle Barn has ‘em. It won double gold in a very competitive category, says Barry Herbst. Dan “Lay It Down” Berger says the flavors are incredible but it portends so much more.
The next wine is the 2020 Bucher, focussed on the Pommard clone. This one reminds Dan of Burgundy. Their winemaker is Adam Lee.
Tom Simoneau and Mari Jones.
Mari Jones from Emeritus Vineyards is Tom Simoneau’s special guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Mari Jones takes the title President of Fun at Emeritus Vineyards. Bryce Cutrer-Jones in the early ‘90s chose a 115-acre site for Pinot Noir. He sold Sonoma-Cutrer in 1999. Tom Simoneau tells about how Mari’s father was one of the pioneers of Sonoma County Pinot Noir. From the Air Force to Wine Country Mari tells how her father went to the Air Force Academy and he was a fighter pilot for eight years. He got interested in wine when working as a pilot for a general, in Europe. One day he learned that Burgundy was a place and not just a kind of cheap wine. After the Air Force he went to business school and developed a way to use vineyards as a tax shelter. Eventually he built up a vast personal cellar. He succeeded in merging new world technology and old world sensibility, particularly between Burgundy and California. Finally he bought Hallberg Ranch and that is where this wine they are tasting comes from.
They begin tasting the Pinot Noirs from Hallberg Ranch. Their total production is only between 8000 to 10,000 cases per year. The name Emeritus has a story. They brought a lot of staff over from Sonoma-Cutrer, when Emeritus got started. In Latin it means “earned by service” or in modern English, old men out to pasture.
Rodney Strong is holding a mindful wine tasting, incorporating principles of yoga, on October 8. November 19, the Fall Market on the Concert Green, with live music, wine tasting, snacks and gift vendors.
Dry Farming Tom Simoneau mentions their dry farming technique, which they do at Emeritus. The Hallberg Ranch Pinot Noir is picked at 22-24 brix. Mari Jones explains that often, when irrigating, you get chemical ripeness without flavor development. They find that they get higher acid, smaller berries, more intense aromatics and smaller juice to skin ratio.
Winemaker David Lattin has been there since 2017. He has a history of working with some very famous estate-grown Pinot Noir producers in California. Emeritus has a small production so only one wine is in the wholesale market, this Hallberg Ranch. Most of their other wines are under 500 cases. Their ranch and tasting room are located in Occidental on Hwy 116.
Then they taste the Pinot Hill East, about 8 miles southwest, to Pinot Hill vineyard in Sebastopol Hills. It is cold and foggy. The vines are on an east-facing slope, so they get no direct sun in the summer. The west side has completely different conditions and the wines are equally different.
Laura McGilley and Andriana Duckworth from Sonoma Valley Wine join Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke on California Wine Country. Andriana Duckworth is the Executive Director and Laura McGilley is the Marketing and Communications Manager for the Sonoma Valley Vintners. The Sonoma Valley Vintners and Growers Alliance, known as Sonoma Valley Wine, is the voice of the Sonoma Valley wine region where there are 6 AVAs and 14,000 acres of vineyards. Dan Berger points out that in 1879 at Kunde Ranch, at the time called Dunfillin, made the first Cabernet Sauvignon in California. The Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival Sonoma Valley Wine is promoting The Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival in the uniquely beautiful town of Sonoma, on October 7 and 8, 2022. They have taken over the longest running festival of its type. The festival will be located mainly in the Sonoma Plaza. Friday October 7 is the Sonoma Legends dinner where wineries will host tables and bring their cellar wines. Saturday October 8 is the Grand Tasting with 45 or more wineries pouring. Don’t miss the Grape Stomp on Saturday during the daytime festival, from 10 am to 4 pm. There will be live music, beer, wine, barbeque, kid zone, artisans and craftspeople.
Valley of the Moon is the name that Jack London gave to this area. Dan Berger says the side roads in the area go through some of the most beautiful land anywhere. If you come for the festival, plan to take an extra day or two.
Dan’s cellar wine today is from Joiefarm, a Canadian winery in British Columbia. It is a 2012 called A Noble Blend. This wine is not available in the US but if you visit Canada, look for it. It is a blend of Gewurtstraminer and Riesling and others. It has a very interesting flavor profile.
There is great diversity in the Sonoma Valley and Dan points out that there is also great quality. It is the birthplace of California wine, with Buena Vista being the first licensed winery in California. Three Tastings from Sonoma Valley They are tasting a 2019 Walt Chardonnay from San Giacomo Family Vineyards and Steve Jaxon really likes it. Dan says it is “really high quality wine” and that it is made to age two or three years, in order to show the oak against the fresh fruit flavors.
The second wine is a Rose of Grenache from Hamilton Family Wines, an estate grown Sonoma Valley vineyards. Jess Wade is the winemaker who also has his own label. They do Rhone style wines very well in the Sonoma Valley. This wine is very dry but succulent. At room temperature, the earthy component of Grenache and a trace of cranberry are coming in.
The third wine is a 2016 Muscardini Cellars Merlot from San Giacomo Family Vineyards, as is the first Chard. The famlly has been growing grapes for almost a hundred years. “Delicious” says Dan Berger.
Courtney DeGraff and Jocelyn Thoresen from the Anderson Valley Harvest Tidrick Celebration are our guests on California Wine Country today. Barry Herbst is also in the studio today. Wine Enthusiast magazine just named Bottle Barn one of the top three wine stores in California. Our guests describe the Harvest Tidrick Celebration. Tidrick is a Boontling word, derived from "tea drinking." Boontling is the famous lingo that citizens of Booneville invented around 150 years ago, for fun and in order to gossip in front of others who did not understand it. The citizens of Booneville continue to take great pleasure in the lingo and enjoy promoting it, including having fun with the marketing for this event.
Dan Berger has brought a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from 2016 which he would not normally have saved for this long, but which has survived well. Anderson Valley The Anderson Valley is located in northern California, in Mendocino County well north of Santa Rosa where this show originates. It lies about an hour and half to the north over a winding road and feels even more remote once you arrive.
The Anderson Valley Harvest Tidrick Celebration runs from Friday October 21 through Sunday October 23 in Anderson Valley, California. Check out the website AV WINES dot com. Saturday and Sunday. All of their wineries are doing harvest events. Visitors can stop at up to four per day, with their admission. They also have live music and movies. Our Bottle Barn is also sponsor of the Tidrick.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the coolest bargains on wine, beer and spirits. Today's Tastings The first wine tasted is a 2021 Pennyroyal Farm wine called Anyhow Blanc, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Dan Berger finds that it is the best blend of these two that he has ever tasted, since you can really taste parts of each grape.
Next they taste a 2020 Chardonnay from Drew Family Wines called Bahl Briney, which is Boontling, Bahl is great and Briney means coast. They are situated up on the Mendocino Ridge. The family does all their own farming. "Beautiful structure," says Dan Berger. Rich, great acidity to balance off the fruit. Jason Drew is the owner and winemaker, a "brilliant talent" says Dan. They produce small lot cool-climate wines from Anderson Valley and Mendocino Ridge AVAs.
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The third wine is the Pennyroyal 2019 Pinot Noir from Eye of the Needle vineyard. This is one block on a property called The Corners, one of Booneville's original settlements. It is where Hwy 128 and Hwy 253 meet. It has about 18 months barrel aging, about 30% new oak. What's more, also brought a cheese called Velvet Sister, named after some real historical characters.
The 2019 Drew Fog Eater Pinot Noir is next. In Boontling, Fog Eaters are coastal people and Bright Lighters are city folk. It has a black pepper component under all the cherry and berry flavors. The synthesis of fruit, acidity and tannin, is what they mean by "structure" but it takes a lot of tasting to really know. Barry finds it earthy like the Pinot Noir from Burgundy.
Dan Berger and Barry Herbst
Bottle Barn Rosé wines are the subject of this episode of California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. It’s Rosé all day with Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.
Bottle Barn has more Rosés than anyone in Sonoma County and may stock more than any store in the whole country. They have at least 90 different ones, which is not quite as much as last year. They come from many regions of the world. They open one that comes from Basque country in Spain. Another feature is that there is a spectrum of colors of all of these wines.
Dan Berger tells how it took an entire generation of people disparaging pinkwine before a new generation decided to try it before deriding it. When the weather is awfully hot as it is now in late August, there are few wines more pleasant to drink.
Now, Rosé is an “unstoppable train,” says Barry Herbst. The quality is so high and the flexibility with food maks it available to pair with many flavors of food. It is also easier and less espensive to produce than wines that require barrell aging.
The first is called Kara Marie, the Ra Ra Rosé, a local production of winemaker Daryl Groom, named after his daughter. It is made from Grenache grapes grown in Dry Creek Valley. It has strong floral flavors and a trace of the taste of the red wine that it comes from. It is “perfectly dry” says Steve Jaxon. Dan suggests it would go with Steak Tartare.
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All of the wines today are from 2021. Some of these wines improve after a year or two and they are made to be enjoyed young. But if you accidentally lose a bottle in your cellar, don’t toss it before you try it! Don’t buy anything three years old, as that can be too late.
Next is Husch Vineyards 2021 Mendocino Blaze Rosé. It is the pale pink or copper shade that is second in line in the featured illustration above. This is made from Zinfandel, Carignane and Petit Syrah.
There was a stigma about White Zinfandel at one time, but some producers are actually bringing it back right now. Also, they harvest grapes for Rosé early, even right now in late August.
Next is a 2020 dry Rosé from Von Winning. It should be well chilled and served in a decanter. It is made from Pinot Noir and is very flavorful. There are a lot of nice German pink wines coming in now.
Next is a Txomin Etxaniz Rosé from Basque country. These grapes grow 7 feet high off the ground. The soil there is white, and it captures so much sunlight that it radiates heat off the ground, so the grapes have to be away from the heat of the soil.
Until they had cold fermentation in steel tanks, these wines were not very good, but when they could invest in stainless steel tanks, the wine production improved a lot. “Zomin Zaniz” is the pronunciation according to Harry Duke.
The last Rosé tasted today is a 2021 Les Rocailles from Savoie (aka Savoy, southeastern France). It is a cool growing area, light body, heavy acid, a good level of fruit, built on its tannins. It is like a red wine variant.
Mike Martini
Taft Street Winery co-founder Mike Martini is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. Taft Street Wines is family owned and operated since 1979 including their time as home winemakers. They started officially as a bonded winery in 1982. Mike tells how his friends liked their wine so some of them decided to form a winery. They are bringing in grapes now on their forty-first harvest.
Today, instead of a cellar wine, Dan Berger has brought a new Rosé from Chile, called Maquis Rosé, a blend of Cabernet Franc and Malbec. White Zinfandel saved the Zinfandel crop, and so that was important for the business, but people are making true Rosés now.
Mike has brought six wines for tasting, two Pinot Noir, two 2021 Sauvignon Blanc and two Chardonnay. They will taste each pair, one against the other. The first Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc is special because there is not a lot of Sauvignon Blanc left in vineyards in the Russian River Valley AVA. It is high in acidity and was fermented in stainless steel. It is lemony, lean, crisp and delicate. The Sauvignon Blanc Explosion Sauvignon Blanc is in heavy demand these days, it’s sold out everywhere. The second Taft Street Sauvignon Blanc is similar but it’s two steps forward, because it has a little more lees contact and some barrel aging, so it is more like a Chardonnay. Dan says that both would benefit from three to five years. He might age the steely one for seven or more years, for its aroma to develop.
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Sauvignon Blanc is relatively rare in Russian River Valley, which is mostly Pinot Noir these days. Dan Berger says that a creative winemaker can play that game and win. Sauvignon Blanc from Russian River Valley is hot, yet there is even less of it than before. Taft Street Winery Tasting Room 2030 Barlow Lane in Sebastopol, north of Occidental Road, north of town. It is NOT in "The Barlow" which is a wonderful place with great businesses, but Taft Street Winery is "not at the Barlow!" for the record.
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Next they taste the two Chardonnays. Again, there are two different styles. The first is a generic stainless steel style Chard with only a small percentage saw some wood. Mike thinks this is what Russian River Valley Chardonnay tastes like. It has acquired some fruit and spice but hardly any of the oak flavors. The second glass is richer and more full-bodied. It was fermented in French oak and has some malolactic fermentation.
Mike Martini readily admits that he is not the winemaker, and gives the credit to his winemaker Melissa Kuhn and consultants Jeff McBride and Guy Davis.
Al and Lisa Brayton of Thirty-Seven Wines join Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. Their winery is located in the Petaluma Gap, the new AVA in southern Sonoma County that is characterized by its windy conditions.
When they chose their winery’s name, they wanted to give it a sense of place and since they were located on Highway 37, they chose that number. They also chose a logo, an ancient symbol called the Flower of Life, which is composed of many circles placed close together. Later, they discovered that there are thirty-seven circles in the design. They took this coincidence as a sign that they had chosen the right name.
We usually begin tasting with a wine from Dan Berger’s extensive personal cellar. Instead of that, Dan has brought a winning wine from a competition where he was a judge earlier today, the Mendocino County Wine Competition. This is the 47th consecutive year of that competition. This wine was served in the sweepstakes round. It is the Navarro 2021 Premiere Reserve Chardonnay. This later was announced as a Double Gold Medal winner, the top wine in its category. It’s very good but definitely also very young. All About Albariño Lisa tells about their 2019 Albariño, which they have brought in. Albariño is a Spanish and Portuguese variety that Dan Berger describes as semi-aromatic. Dan describes how it starts out young with floral flavors then changes slightly with a few years of bottle aging, picking up fruit flavors.
Steve had a Thirty-Seven Malbec last night and enjoyed it. They didn’t bring one but they did bring a Blau Frankisch for later. But Dan says their Malbec is more delicate than other Malbecs especially the Argentinian. The credit goes to their winemaker, Shane Finley, who has been there since 2013.
They grow Albariño for their own production but there is very little demand for it in California and hardly anybody grows it.
Next they open their 2019 Riesling, Dan’s favorite. It starts sweet but the aftertaste is dry. The vineyard is challenging, it’s on a southern facing slope and they lost about half of it to a slide. It takes a lot of work in the vineyard.
The Wind of Petaluma Gap
Al and Dan both talk about the wind in Petaluma Gap and how it influences the grapes and wines of this new AVA. They have average wind speeds of 8 miles-per-hour, to qualify for the AVA. It cuts your yield, makes berry size smaller and makes thicker skins, but those factors increase flavors and character in the wine. Dan goes into detail here, in the 15th minute.
Kevin Bersofsky from Montagne Russe Wines is our guest in the studio and Randy Bennett from Sojourn Cellars will be calling in later. Petaluma Gap is a fairly new appellation and it is becoming famous for quality wines, and for wines that are distinctive. The Petaluma Gap Winegrowers is promoting the Wind to Wine Festival on August 13, 2022. It will be a celebration of Petaluma Gap featuring 25 wineries from this new AVA. Many smaller growers and winemakers will be there and they will be sharing their stories.
Despite our general warming, the Petaluma Gap area remains quite cool. The wind begins about Bodega bay and curls in all the way to San Pablo Bay. The wind comes in from the west and it blankets the gap. It is a cold region, and it needed to be carved out of the Sonoma Coast appellation. Dan emphasizes that the wind is the key feature that slows down the maturity of the vines. This allows the grapes to stay on the vines longer, for more flavor.
At the Wind to Wine Festival on August 13, there will be 25 of the greatest wineries in Sonoma County. There will also be an early hour VIP ticket with special pours and a chance to meet the winemaker. General admission begins at 2pm, VIP at 1pm.
The Montagne Russe Chardonnays are rich but also have strong acidity, which is the holy grail of winemaking. The secret to the wine is the acidity, says Dan.
Kevin tells the history of Montagne Russe. In the mid-2000s he moved from LA to up north, and he was making wine in his garage. His neighbor called the ATF and they found that he was making more wine in his garage than he was supposed to have. They made him stop making amateur wine so he turned pro.
Randy Bennett from Sojourn Cellars in the Petaluma Gap calls in on the phone. They have been producing wines in Petaluma Gap since 2004. It was a Pinot Noir and they still produce it. Then they started making a single-vineyard wine from Gap’s Crown, long before it became an official AVA.
The Sojourn Chard is young, so bright and fruity, and has not have time to develop complexity in barrel. It will do so, because it’s acidity is strong enough to reward you if you can put it away for 2 years. Two hours in a decanter will show you something of what aging will do.
Dan and Steve.
Steve Situm from Carol Shelton Wines is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Steve Jaxon begins by reading the story from Carol Shelton’s website, about how her mother played a game with her where she had to identify spices by their scent. She has been making wine for forty-two years and was the winemaker for Rodney Strong who made all of their award-winning wines. Since she did not get the recognition that she thought she deserved, she started her own label under her own name.
Steve Situm started in wine in 1962 as a salesperson, and he worked with many of the greatest labels in the business. He considers her to be the greatest winemaker he has ever worked with. Dan Berger says that Carol Shelton is also great at selecting vineyards. It takes years of analysis before she purchases a vineyard. Steve Situm has been in wine sales since the early 1960s. Carol Shelton wines are in 43 states and “the wine speaks for itself” when he is making a sales presentation.
Carol Shelton tells her story on her website about the resistance she encountered as a woman winemaker. Dan remembers that Carols was making wine in the mid and late 1970s and later, in the 1980s she showed a sixth sense for varietal character and personality in wine.
The 2021 Coquille Blanc Rhone-style blend is a good example of that. This has Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne and Viogner, the four best of the Rhone varieties. Carol’s style is all about balance. She also uses no pesticides and organically farmed fruit.
Carol Shelton Wines tasting room is 3354-B Coffey Lane in Santa Rosa, in the Coffey Business Park. Reservations are required at the website or by calling (707) 575-3441. There is nothing like the wines that Carol Shelton makes.
Now they are tasting the Coquille Rouge, the other blend. Dan mentions that in the 1940s and 50s, the wines coming from this region were rather generic blends all called “Burgundy.” This blend is similar to those but it is more stylish in the way it represents the Rhone Valley in France. Some of these wines are from 100-year-old vines in Contra Costa County. There are 5 varieties in this blend, all barrel fermented in French oak. Dan says there is nothing like this coming from any winery, with a great bouquet and a silky finish. Steve mentions this is Carol Shelton’s signature style. It is also an incredible value, at about $26.
Carol Shelton has more awards than any winemaker in the country. She has been awarded Winemaker of the Year eight times. Four of her wines have been in the Wine Spectator’s Top 100 in the last eight years.
The third wine tasted is a Rockpile reserve. The vineyard is gorgeous, says Dan. Carol Shelton recommended that the grower make some changes which had a great effect on the wine. The wine gets about 18 months in mostly French oak. It tastes more like a Cabernet than a Zinfandel, he thinks. This 2019 is as good as the 2018, which was the best Dan tasted that year. At well under $40 at Bottle Barn, it is a great value.
Dan and Darryl.
Dehlinger Winery winemaker Darryl Miller is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. The Dehlinger Winery vineyard is located in the area of Goldridge soil in the western part of the Russian River Valley AVA, not far from Sebastopol. The last time Darryl was on California Wine Country was this episode of August 26, 2020 and Eva Dehlinger was also on this show in October 2018, on this episode.
The Dehlinger family originally purchased the property in 1972, began planting grapes in '75 and the first release was ‘78. The vineyard in the heart of the Russian River is in the area of Goldridge soil. The area was planted mostly to cherries and apples.
Dan Berger’s cellar wine of the week is an 11-year-old dry Riesling that Dan says has interesting lemon flavors... The secret to this wine is that it is really dry. The winemaker is Louisa Rose, a friend of Dan's.
Two Pinot Noirs and a Chardonnay They taste the 2017 Dehlinger Altamont Pinot Noir, which is the current release, which is remarkable because other current releases are around 2020 now. This is a very limited release, to the wine club and at the. According to Dan it is a classic example of what Russian River can do. Some of the vines are 40 years old. The vineyard has a combination of Swan, Martini and 988 clones. It has Russian River character of Raspberry, strawberry and black cherry. They make another Russian River Pinot Noir called Goldridge, based on that soil, which is more forward and heavier. The Alatamont is brighter and a lighter color than usual.
Dan Berger's Cellar Dweller of the Week.
The next wine is the 2019 Dehlinger Chardonnay. With every bottling, they taste back 10 vintages. The 2012 was “just beautiful.” This Chardonnay displays a good balance between richness and freshness. They only have about eight acres of Chardonnay, which has been replanted in small blocks. This is all Wente clone, with small berries and therefore crisp acidity. It takes a lot of patience and attention to make a wine this bright and clear without filtering it. Rodney Strong & Davis Bynum Click the logo to visit our sponsor Rodney Strong for the latest on the 2022 Summer Concert series.
Darryl Miller tells about how he started working in wine, starting as a salesperson with many prestigious brands. Eventually he founded a brokerage, which he worked for and sold off. Dehlinger Vineyard is located at Vine Hill Rd. and Guerneville Rd. They are open Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday by appointment. It's a working winer
Finally, the last tasting is a Cabernet Sauvignon. Hardly anyone else in this cool area grows this grape. It has a beautiful aroma of black olive, a characteristic of Cab from a cool region. Most people will never smell or taste this kind of wine. It will hold up for 20 years.
Dan and Darek.
World Winery winemaker Darek Trowbridge is our guest on California Wine Country with Harry Duke sitting in for Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Darek founded Old World Winery to practice natural winemaking. He is also featured in a documentary on natural wine called Living Wine, being released this month.
Dan Berger has brought another cellar dweller this week, from Dan’s deep, dark and dangerous cellar. He thought the 2019 Jim Barry Watervale Riesling would be good on a hot day like today. Bottle Barn has this wine for under $17. Darek says it is hard to get this wine right when it is this dry but they did a good job.
The Old World Winery is a small family owned and operated winery in the Russian River Valley. Darek started Old World Winery after getting a Master’s degree in winemaking in 1998. He set out to make natural wine and has been doing that for 24 years. Recently it has taken off. Dan Berger says a new restaurant that opens in Los Angeles today has to have some natural wine on the wine list. People want nothing added that does not come from grapes. Wines that are "Interesting" Dan remembers being a judge at a wine competition once, and every single wine was exactly the same color, without any variation. Darek says that he sets out to make what he can call flawed wine. He makes “interesting” wines that are decidedly not uniform.
He has a wine called Bloom, which is a chillable red. It is not a deep rich red, but rather a light red. It is an unusual wine, compared to what we usually see. Many larger wineries are locked into a type, that includes sterile filtration. But these wines, unfiltered, keep more flavor and aroma in the wine. Other wine may look better but doesn’t smell as nice. It’s a manufacturing tool that produces uniformity. Darek quit doing filtration about 10 years ago. They and their consumers like their product to be kind of unpolished. Dan Berger says this is a serious category that is removing us from the tyranny of “the numbers” meaning how many points it has. They are located on River Road, open Fridays and Saturdays. It’s close to the freeway.
The second wine tasted is a bit deeper red. Tannin doesn’t really go well in the natural wine category. This is still a light red, even if darker than the Bloom. It’s chillable, but also nice not chilled. Its name is Impulse. The label says “whole cluster, foot stomped.” People come to stomp, including interns and volunteers. It’s a blend of Merlot and Petit Syrah. Living Wine Darek describes Laurie Miller, the producer-director who with her brother Ben Miller were interested in natural wine. She called to inquire about filming some segments, in 2020. A few other natural wine producers are also in the movie. Living Wine is a story about the people who make wine. It follows some natural winemakers in northern California. The movie’s website says, “Equal parts farmer, winemaker, and artist, they stay true to their ideals of creating exceptional wines made through innovative sustainable and regenerative farming and without chemical additives."
This film will be showing at the Rialto Cinemas in Sebastopol, California, from Friday August 19 through Thursday August 25. It was released at the DocLands festival in Marin where it was a hit.
They are tasting the 2009 Merlot, the third wine tasted today, which curiously, is still available at Old World Winery. Dan says it doesn't smell or taste like most Merlot today. It reminds him of the 1970s, with dried herbs, fresh herbs and black cherries that Merlot should have, and without the high tannins which it should not have. Darek describes how this wine was made and what he is looking for in the process. It is very unusual to release a 2009 right now. At only 12.4% ABV, the alcohol does not overpower the fruit flavors.
Winemaker Niki Williams of Chateau St Jean is back with Alexandra O'Gorman of Foley Family Wines on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. They were here a month ago on this June 8, 2022 episode which was cut short by an impending NBA broadcast. So now they are back for a full show. Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn will also join us.
Alexandra O’Gorman tells about Foley Family Wines. As the owners retired they acquired a central California winery and named it Foley Estate. Later they purchased other family wineries, now totaling nineteen.
Niki Williams grew up in central Illinois among corn, soybeans and beef cattle. She worked for a travel company based in Chicago and got an exposure to wine by visiting other countries. The idea of terroir proved attractive. After working in theater she studied winemaking at UC Davis. She has been at Chateau St. Jean for the last four months. She worked for Merryville Family Wines at the Starmont Winery and previously at Franciscan Winery and its successors. “It’s been a really good crash course in winemaking,” working with different varieties, vineyards and wine styles over the last ten years. Chateau St. Jean The winery opened in 1972 and was one of the first wineries in Sonoma Valley. It was famous for Chardonnay even then. Its previous owners stopped winemaking at the property so is the first winemaking at Chateau St. Jean since 2016. They are finishing some construction now. Chateau St. Jean has always been a destination for big events. It’s a beautiful facility with amazing gardens in a hillside setting. Tom Simoneau says their blend called Cinq Cépages is like the Mouton Rothschild of Sonoma County. They won Wine of the Year for their 1996 Cinq Cépages blend. That was the first Sonoma County wine to win that prestigious award. They also have a 2016 Cinq Cépages to taste.
A 2020 Sauviglon Blanc from Alexander Valley is next. The vineyard is in a cool area so the wine is nicely acidic. From a single vineyard block, it used 85% in stainless steel and 15% neutral French oak barrels. Robert Mondavi called his Sauvignon Blanc Fumé Blanc so that people would know it was dry. It worked and many followed him.
Alexandra O’Gorman describes her job, whose title reaches all the way around her business card. She coordinates hospitality activity of nine properties in Sonoma County for Foley Family Wines. The company mission is to have good food and wine experiences in their locations. The grouop includes several historic properties like Chateau St. Jean and Sebastiani.
They taste a Chardonnay that Tom Simoneau says is well balanced, creamy and with a full mouth feel. It has a little nuttiness from the oak and a hint of nutmeg, but also bright crisp citrus fruit. It is sourced from around Sonoma County so there is a range of fruit flavors from tropical to melon, apple and peach. It was fermented and aged in barrel and 45% new French oak. It is only available at the winery or through the wine club.
Niki Williams has also brought a 2018 Alexander Valley Malbec, which Tom Simoneau calls a “knockout.” Tom Simoneau describes it as a combination of Merlot and Cab. If the color purple had a taste it would be Malbec. She describes it as voluptuous and Barry notes the silky tannins.
Dan Berger
Joseph Phelps Vineyards, an iconic Napa Valley winery with holdings in Sonoma County, has new ownership. Dan Berger is in the studio today for a special edition of California Wine Country, to talk about the deal with Harry Duke.
Moët-Chandon is the new owner. It is the champagne brand that is part of the French LVMH portfolio of companies. That company was created from a merger between them and Hennessey, the cognac company. Then they acquired Louis Vuitton and branched into luxury goods. So now LVMH is a luxury goods brand 80 billions dollars in size.
Joseph Phelps was a contractor in the Denver area who moved to Napa Valley in the late 1970s and bought a property off of the Silverado trail. It is beautiful and secluded. He also acquired some of the best vineyards in the southern half of the Napa Valley. Their wines are “sensational” says Dan. They were one of the first Napa companies to acquire property in Sonoma County specifically to produce Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
The company owns wine properties all over France and now they have an excellent foothold in California. Phelps has always made exemplary Cabernet Sauvignon, which has always been undervalued. Dan Berger believes this is good for the industry as long as the new owners do not change the style of the house.
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Bill Nachbaur
Acorn Winery co-owner Bill Nachbaur is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. First, Bill tells about buying the vineyard that had been planted decades ago as a field blend. This means different varietals are planted side by side in the same vineyard, unlike most vineyards today. As a teenager in the 1890s Bill’s grandfather worked in vineyards in the area. The whole story is on their website.
Field-blended wines are made of different grape varieties grown together then pressed and vinted together too. The result can be tasted in the flavors that are uniquely reflective of the land and the blend. Today they have planted some grapes that reflect their personal heritage. There is Zinfandel and also some Alvarinho, a Portuguese varietal, to honor his wife’s grandmother. Gruner Veltliner is an Austrian grape that he planted to honor his grandfather.
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Dan Berger describes Acorn Winery as a fascinating project because it is not varietal-based. They have decided to focus on their field blends, so they are by definition vineyard-based. They are often a year behind their neighbors in their releases, because they hold them a longer time, which they need to express their character. The Gruner Veltliner is very dry. Dan tastes a “preserved lemon” character. The sharpness of the acid would make it great to go with seafood.
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Acorn Winery is located across the street from Rodney Strong and they can partially hear their concerts. Besides the whites and the rosato, they make Zinfandel, Sangiovese, Dolcetto, Syrah and Cabernet Franc as well as blends of those. Acorn Winery wines use oak in a very careful way so the wine speaks to the fruit. Dan Berger says his Dolcetto is really an Italian style, which means it is delicate. It is a grape from Piedmont, northwest Italy. Dolcetto and Barbera are the everyday wines. Barbaresco and Barolo, made from the Nebbiolo grape, are the heavies.
They taste the Rosato, which is simply the Italian word for pink, or Rosé wine. It is a bit darker than the usual Rosés. All Rosés are on a color spectrum, though. It is hard to tell a Rosé from a red if you taste it from a black glass. Your vision influences your expectations and what you taste.
Dan and Don.
Piemonte wines are on the table today as Don Chigazola is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He has brought some wines from Piemonte (the region in northwest Italy located south of Switzerland and east of France). His company Chigazola Merchants imports unique wines produced in the various regions of Italy. They travel back roads in Italy and meet the local people in order to find the best long-established producers. They are mostly small family operations making the wines that are traditional in that region. They taste a lot of wine and meet a lot of people. They build relationships with the ones that make the best wines, which they will import. They work with 12 different families, soon to be 13, in 10 different regions. On these previous editions of California Wine Country, Don Chigazola showed white wines from various regions of central Italy, and once specifically from Umbria. Today he has brought wines from Piemonte (which is also known for truffles).
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the coolest bargains on wine, beer and spirits. Traveling the Back Roads of Italy They just got back from almost a month in Italy, hunting for Riesling in the northeastern province of Alto-Adige. There he found a new producer and he hopes to have their wines in California by the end of the year. They make Riesling, Silvaner and Kerner. The last of those two are not well known over here at all.
Their travel patterns to Italy were somewhat interrupted during the pandemic. Vinitaly is a Verona-based international wine show, which takes place annually in April. There are more than 6,000 Italiain producers showing their wines there. Don also attends this show to find leads.
Chigazola Merchants is a small operation. They typically import 300-500 cases per year, into Sonoma County. That qualifies them as a micro-importer. They are going back to Sardinia in September. Cannonau is a big red from Sardinia, and Vermentino is a tasty white wine produced there (and also in Tuscany and Liguria).
Dan Berger points out that these wines are not going to be known or reviewed by the mainstream press and commercial outlets. He is a direct importer, so his prices will not be marked up as much as the national distributors do. Piemonte wine tastings A varietal called Langhe Arneis is the first tasting. This comes from the Pola family in the village of Neve, in the Barbaresco district. It is called Fontanabianca, which means white fountain. There is a fountain on their property whose water is white due to the minerality.
This wine is “poco mosso” which means it has light natural bubbles. It ls light and easy drinking but also has good acidity so it pairs with food. Don likes it alone or with salads and soups, or light meats or spaghetti alle vongole. Dan Berger explains that they figured out how to make good wine from Arneis after stainless steel tanks came on, which lets you keep it cool.
The two titans, Barbaresco and Barolo, are both based on Nebbiolo grapes but the two areas have very different terroir. First they taste a Barbaresco, which must be held for a full two years. It is supposed to be a light color. It is like a daily drinking wine but it will also stand 6-8 years in the cellar. Michele Pola, the winemaker, recently took over from his father.
The other big red is a 2017 Sobrero Barolo, “the wine of kings and the king of wines.” Barolo has more of a “leather belt” character. It is big, dark and lush. Barolo’s weather and soil are completely different so the Nebbilo grape expresses very differently than Barbaresco. (Nebbiolo the name comes from the Italian word nebbia, meaning fog.) Don explains that these wines have great residual acid so they will age a long time. Don Berger warns to open it six to eight hours before drinking and to decant it.
Don explains that he always holds his red wines for a while in order for them to settle down.
Rosé Season is here at Bottle Barn and Barry Herbst is here to tell all about it on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. First, Dan Berger’s Cellar Dweller wine this week is a 2010 Chardonnay from New Zealand, from Peregrine, located in central Otago. Michelle Richardson was the winemaker there for that vintage. “Very much alive, still,” says Barry Herbst at the first taste.
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The season of Rosé wine is here and Barry Herbst describes the Rosé situation at Bottle Barn. A lot of producers did not make Rosé last year. Some other Rosés that they have had in stock actually improve with age. So they may not have quite as many choices as in recent years but the selection is still vast. About 65-70% of their Rosés are from local producers.
They taste a Rosé from Fred Scherrer that is delicious, “up there with the very best of them,” says Dan Berger. A Quiviera winery Rosé is the next tasting. It is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, classic Rhone varietals. It is a little lighter in color, and also a little bit coppery in color. It is also a 2021. It has a little more Grenache aromatics and fruit components. Dan thinks it would go well with a sausage pizza. It sells for $17.99 and won Double Gold for Rosé at the Press Democrat competition. Rosé used to be more limited to summer time but Bottle Barn keeps a good selection of Rosé year-round now. Their third tasting is a Grenache Rosé by Leo Steen, in the Healdsburg area. The grapes come from Sonoma Valley, a little more inland. This one is dry, made of 100% Grenache. It’s unusual because Grenache is hard to get. Dan Berger notes that Grenache grapes are much in demand. This is because of its aromatic component. Barry Herbst notes that a lot of the winning Rosés are from Sangiovese or Grenache. It has cranberry-like notes. The Grenache Rosé comes across more structured and astringent than a Rosé made with Grenache without the other varietals in the blend. Bottle Barn has resumed in-store tastings, in the afternoons and evenings. Check Bottle Barn dot com for up-to-the-minute details. Alexander Valley Vineyards Rosé of Sangiovese: Wow! Now they have the Alexander Valley Vineyards Rosé of Sangiovese. The nose on this one is amazing. Sangiovese produces aromatically interesting reds, but in a real Mediterranean climate as they have in Alexander Valley it is ideal. This sells for $13.99, which is incredible for a wine this good. It is darker pink, but richer in body and not sweet. It has structural balance and would go with a wide variety of food flavors. This week, Bottle Barn has won Best Wine Retailer in the Press Democrat Readers’ Choice Awards, for the umpteenth time in a row. The final tasting is a 2020 100% Carignane Rosé from Mendocino County, Bartolome Vineyard. It’s gorgeous, says Dan Berger. Barry Herbst says Delve Wine Company is a co-op next to bottle barn, called Punchdown Cellars. Some small producers making 50-80 cases can do their production work there. It’s earthy and “kind of barnyardy” says Barry.
Alexandra O'Gorman, Tom Simoneau & Niki Williams.
Chateau St. Jean winemaker Niki Williams and Alexandra O'Gorman from Foley Family Wines join Steve Jaxon, Harry Duke and Tom Simoneau on California Wine Country today. Dan Berger is away this week. Alexandra O’Gorman's title is Senior Director of Luxury Sonoma Estates at Foley Family Wines. Niki Williams is the winemaker at Chateau St. Jean winery.
Alexandra tells how the company has invested in many family wineries and they have also acquired Chateau St. Jean. They have done renovations to the winery and they have brought winemaking back to Chateau St. Jean. Tom Simoneau tells the story of how a previous owner stopped winemaking on site. Wine has not been made there since 2016, so all the equipment is being renovated and replaced. The estate vineyards are also being refreshed.
While they are tasting a Pinot Blanc, Niki Williams tells her winemaking history. With a bachelors degree in English she graduated without “a clue.” She stated doing acting and improv and worked with a travel company where she got an exposure to wine while traveling to Europe. She decided to become a winemaker and studied at UC Davis. She worked at the Starmont winery and for some Constellation wineries, Franciscan, Mt. Veeder and The Prisoner Wine Company.
Alexandra O’Gorman describes her job for Foley Family Wines where she oversees several wineries that they have purchased. They focus on a guest experience with fine wine, beautiful locations and new culinary choices. Their first vintage was 1974. Chateau St. Jean is promoting their Summer Fête, a French-themed soirée, on July 9. Tasting Chateau St. Jean Wines They are tasting the Alexander Valley Pinot Blanc. Most of the fruit is from Robert Young vineyards. 40% fermented in barrels and 60% in steel tanks, so it is balanced between the barrel & lees contact flavors and the steely flavors. It has creamy pear flavors from the oak but is very well balanced.
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The Belle Terre Chardonnay is a single-vineyard wine and one of the first. They try to capture the unique terroir of the vineyard. This vineyard is in Alexander Valley in the southern part, close to the Russian River. This is 100% barrel fermented for the creamy mid-pallette texture. It does not get full ML so you also get the fresh acidity. Tom Simoneau compares it to his own Brenda Lee Chardonnay, made similarly. It is less creamy than the Pinot Blanc. The acidity brings out the lovely minerality on the finish, which comes from the soils. The vines have been around since at least the early 70s.
Lastly they taste a Pinot Noir, which Niki calls her favorite grape. This is the 2017 Benoit Ranch Pinot Noir. This vineyard is in the northwest corner of Carneros in Sonoma. Tom Simoneau likes the finish, it has a “soft grip.”
Alicia Sylvester, the winemaker at Banshee Wines, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke.
Banshee Wines got started among three friends in a bar. It was, “very whimsically put together.” They wanted to make an affordable Pinot Noir of quality from Sonoma County. The name banshee emerged almost accidentally at the last minute. The cockatrice on the bottle is their symbol but they didn’t have the name until someone made a well-timed wisecrack about a barking dog. “A banshee is a spirit in Irish folklore known for its shrieking and wailing,” quotes Harry Duke from Wikipedia.
The brand was born of those friendships and they wanted their tasting room to resemble their apartment, so it is casual, with a couch. It does not look like a traditional tasting room. The Banshee tasting room is located in Healdsburg. Foley Family Wines purchased Banshee in 2018.
Alicia grew up on a farm and was active in 4H. She took classes in dairy and in wine and she realized that was her future. She studied wine business and did internships in labs. She went to Cal Poly San Luis Obispo while their program was still building up. She even went to Australia, Italy, Denmark, South Africa and Argentina, and back to California. With all of her experience she is now leading the team.
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They taste a Sauvignon Blanc, which has a bit of tarragon and lemon flavors. It has some herbal components too. Dan Berger has also brought a cellar wine to taste. Ia 2011 La Crema Pinot Noir from Monterey County. Banshee also makes a Rosé, which they taste. In the past they have done one from Mendocino but now they are making it in Sonoma from Pinot.
GLF Wines owner Greg La Follette ("la-FOLL-et") is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, to talk about his label GLF Wines, and more. The Drive co-host Harry Duke is also in the studio. Greg has been on CWC a few times before. The first was this episode on April 12, 2017. We heard about his previous label Alquimista Cellars in his next episode on November 21, 2018, then again on June 17, 2020.
Dan Berger’s Cellar Dweller of the Week
This is a six-year-old French Rosé from Côtes-du-Rhone that Dan kept as an experiment. Usually he would not keep a Rosé this long, but it was so good when it was young he kept one just to see what would happen. It is mainly Grenache and it is still flavorful although a bit past its prime. Dan calls it “toasty” and remembers it had more peach and dried peach flavors before. Another unusual aspect is its copper color, another product of aging.
Riesling is Dan Berger’s favorite variety and this year he is actually making some, and Greg La Follette is his winemaking consultant in the project. He is getting three tons of Riesling grapes from a grower in Mendocino. He also made some Cabernet Sauvignon, called Berger, which was not for sale.
Bottle Barn has a vast selection of great wines, from everywhere, some of which you have never heard of, at bargain prices. Dan spent some time at Bottle Barn today and gives an extensive report on their vast selection.
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Greg La Follette arrives Greg La Follette has arrived, with a bandaged finger. His new brand is GLF, Greg La Follette wines and he also has Marchelle Wines to specialize in small scale production from old vines. He begins his story, “Well, I’m a farmer.” (That's true, but he is also a scientist.) He has grown grapes on five continents and consulted to many winemakers around the world. Greg was first a student and then a teacher at UC Davis. Retired from that career, he is now devoted to his own projects and to being a grandfather. He worked for Zelma Long at Simi and worked with Mary Ann Graf there, back when they were all laying the foundations for the present day stature of wine country.
Alquimista Cellars did not make it through the pandemic. (That was his previous label, which he talked about in his previous CWC episodes.) The wines went mostly to Michelin-ranked restaurants, with Chardonnays starting at $60 and Pinots from $75 to $120. Their bottled wines went to his partner and he kept the barrel wines, which he has labeled under GLF now. The GLF wines sell for $36 on the website, sometimes less in a couple of Florida-based discount retailers.
Greg tells about having been André Tchelistcheff's last pupil. His present GLF brand is dedicated to making premium wine accessible. Ever since he was a wine student he wanted to make wines that people could afford. His GLF and Marchelle brands both accomplish that. Marchelle is devoted to ancient vines. They are available at the website marchellewines.com.
Katey Bacigalupi Row, Tom Simoneau and Nicole Bacibalupi Dericco.
Katey Bacigalupi Row and Nicole Bacigalupi Dericco join Tom Simoneau today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. The Bacigalupi family owns and operates Bacigalupi Vineyards. Their parents Helen and Charles Bacigalupi, purchased 125 acres on Westside Road in 1956. 2021 was their 65th harvest. Tom Simoneau met them when he and his wife were new to the area in 1988. He mentions that the Bacigalupi reputation is second to none in the Russian River Valley. Beginning with Bubbles We will start by tasting the Bacigalupi sparkling Blanc de Noirs, a 2017 vintage. They make bubbles every four years and they use raw local honey instead of cane sugar for the dosage. After their first sparkling vintage in 2014 they were satisfied but they still wanted to look for a way to improve it.
The team did some tastings and found a favorite that was done with honey so they found a local beekeeper to meet their supply requirements. It is 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir and the honey brings a unique flavor. It is available online and at the tasting room, which is located at 4353 Westside Road and open by reservation every day except Tuesday.
Here, Tom Simoneau tells about how the Grgich wine that won the famous Judgement of Paris tasting in 1976 contained 40% fruit from Bacigalupi Vineyards. Dan Berger says that their older vines produce great fruit. Older vines produce more intense flavors and the winemaker can get great acidity and balance out of older vines. Growers like younger vines for their higher yields but older vines produce lower yields per acre but more interesting flavors.
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Next is the 2019 Bacigalupi Chardonnay, which they have dedicated to Helen. It is named Renouveau, which means Renewal. The 2.5 acre bloc produces only about 100 cases per year. It was under contract to a Napa producer for 20 years; only recently they were able to use the fruit themselves.
Ashley Hertzberg Winemaker Ashley Hertzberg They have been working with Ashley Hertzberg, consulting winemaker. This is their 12th vintage together. “She is really good at coaxing out the natural quality of the vineyard with really minimal manipulation.” Tom Simoneau knows her as a “really tremendous winemaker.”
Bacigalupi Vineyards is about to hold their next Vineyard Designate Tasting fund raising event. The tasting includes several wines that are made all over wine country using fruit from their vineyards. It all happens on Saturday July 16, 1-4 PM.
The Bacigalupi Chardonnay has it all, a lot of oak, a lot of fruit and a lot of complexity. Dan would put it away for three years but not more, since “...they’ve already given you what you want, in this wine. This wine has already got way more complexity than most Chardonnays will ever have.”
Next they taste the Zinfandel, which they consider the crown jewel. They have about 60 acres of Zinfandel on relatively cooler-climate land that gets some fog. Vineyard conditions call for a lot of thinning on their Zin, first while the fruit is green and then again if they see it is too heavy. If the vines are too loaded the fruit will not ripen. Their yields are about four or five tons per acre.
Dan Berger & Walter Leiva.
Davis Estates winemaker Walter Leiva is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.
Before talking about Davis Estates wines with Walter, Dan Berger has opened another cellar dweller, this one is a 2015 Pinot Gris from the Lichen Estate in Anderson Valley and it’s delicious, everyone loves it. Dan detects flavors of dried peaches and a little spice element from the young wine. Pinot Gris is difficult because it produces tannins, when the grapes turn a pinkish-gray when ripening. Normally, tannins are not good for whites.
Davis Estates is a family owned and operated boutique limited production winery located in Calistoga. They make several varieties, especially Cabernet, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It ls located at 4060 Silverado Trail in the north end of Calistoga. They have a tasting room and a tasting experience with a full-time executive chef Mark Caldwell. He is a wine guy to creates pairings specifically for their wines. Dan Berger says, “The winery is spectacular, gorgeous.”
They taste their 2019 Chardonnay which Dan Berger says is delicious but could stand three or four more years before it begins to show. It has a nice combination of tropical and citrus fruit. It uses oak barrels but no malolactic fermentation. Dan says that it is “white Burgunday incarnate” and that if it were French, it would go for $150 a bottle. This is a limited production, only about 600 or 700 cases. The property is easy to reach from Sonoma County. Dan recommends a visit.
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This uses clone 95, which Dan says does not produce a lot of fruit, so it is expensive to make. For a winery with an emphasis on quality, that’s fine. Walter mentions their quest to develop the phenolic profile in the vineyard.
Next they will taste the 2020 Sauvignon Blanc, which is made with fruit from Rutherford, stainless steel fermented. They use “just a touch of oak,” for texture and it has a crisp acid and tropical fruit. In 1966, Mondavi started using the name Fumé Blanc, when very few people had had success with Sauvignon Blanc. The French designation was “Blanc Fumé” and so Robert Mondavi reversed the word order.
The name of the label used to be Windmill Valley, which is reflected in the windmill on the Davis Estates labels.
Now they taste Classic Chase, a blend of 48% Cabernet Franc, 49% Merlot and the rest is Petit Verdot. Cabernet Franc is the “father” of Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a little more personality, when grown properly. Dan says this will be the salvation of Napa Valley in the future. Merlot has more personality than Cab Sauvignon. This is a big wine that has good aging potential.
(l-r) Dan Berger & Dave Ready Jr.
Dave Ready Jr., winemaker at Murphy-Goode, is our guest on California Wine Country today. Harry Duke is sitting in for Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger is also in the studio.
Dave's father was part of the team that founded Murphy-Goode in the 1980s. At the time their wines were based on vineyards managed by Tim Murphy and Dale Goode. Dave Ready Jr. is now the winemaker. The founders met at a new year's eve party in the mid-'80s. His father loved golf and would just as well put a golf course on the property.
After his father returned from Vietnam in the late '60s, he went to college and met a friend who knew about wine. They started a wine tasting group, which was rare for back then. His father then founded a company that was the only distributor in Minnesota for premium California wines. So he had a vast network and a successful business. The Long and Winding Road that leads to Wine When Dave was visiting California, he called his dad who was based in wine country. His father suggested he get a job, after he had spent the summer seeing the Grateful Dead. So he worked the harvest in 1988. It paid $7 an hour and at the time for him it was a chance to stay in California and to be able to see concerts in California. After the 1989 harvest he enjoyed it more and started to stick around. He decided to stay in the wine industry, thinking it might be in sales, same as his father. "He used golf as a sales tool." Once he decided he wanted to do this, he took courses at UC Davis and got a series of jobs. His band, Mango Jam, was a lot of fun. Dan Berger's Cellar Wine of the Week This week Dan Berger has brought in another wine he completely forgot that he had. It is a 2008 Bogle Riesling, from their small production or Riesling. "This wine is over the hill but you can't really kill Riesling..." Dan Berger describes how the maturity of it comes from the "petroleum" component that older Rieslings have, gives it character. Dave Ready Jr. knows the winemaker, Eric Aafedt.
Dan Berger tells the story of Dale Goode and Tim Murphy, who were pioneers, in the '80s who really knew how to match varieties to land in the Alexander Valley well before other people realized its potential. He also tells how they never rested on their laurels, they were always looking for ways to make their wines better and better. Dan Berger tasted an Alexander Valley Cabernet in 1976 and had not heard of Alexander Valley. The Chateau Montelena that won the Judgement of Paris was an Alexander Valley wine.
Some of their fruit does not come from Alexander Valley, however. The fruit comes from Monterey and Santa Barbara. Since they sold Murphy-Goode to Jackson Family Wines, they have access to great vineyards all over California. This Chardonnay is about 75% steel and 25% oak. He thinks that even if the oaky flavors are not part of the variety, it is so common that people expect it. Dan Berger likes its freshness. This is a 2020. They will bottle the 2021 on Friday. Dave says he is going for a Chardonnay that would be like an after-work cocktail, fresh and refreshing for drinking and pure enjoyment. A Really Goode Job Dave also describes a very interesting initiative called A Really Goode Job, where they offer an incredibly generous package to one lucky winner for a full time job with a great salary and a place to live among the vineyards. The company has hired some extraordinary people and this year they are doing it again. The application is a 60-90 second video explaining why you want the job. Last year they had 7,000 applicants.
Before the end of the show they taste the 2020 Murphy-Goode Sauvignon Blanc and a very well-informed discussion of residual sugar ensues. Finally they taste a fascinating 2018 Murphy-Goode Zinfandel, called Liar's Dice. Also this one, the fruit comes from Alexander Valley. Dave blends from 2-4 percent Petit Syrah "to give it a little extra backbone," and "it has a nice jammyness to it."
Dan Berger, Tom Simoneau, Leah Scurto of Pizzaleah and Justin Seidenfeld.
Pizzaleah owner and pizza chef Leah Scurto joins California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. She has brought samples of her pizza and will tell us about her restaurant and the delicious pizzas she will be making at the Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience, coming on May 20-22. (Tom Simoneau is also in the studio with Karissa Kruse and Steve De Veres, who are organizing the big event. Their entire conversation about that is on this other podcast episode, while this episode is all about pizza!) 🍕 The Award-Winning Nico Leah Scurto has brought a pizza recipe called Nico that she will be making at the Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience. At the CIA-copia in Napa, the Nico won the Real Californian Award. It features garlic confit, fresh rosemary, black pepper and is finished with Parmigiano Reggiano. Leah is excited about the Healdsburg event in May, especially for the opportunity to sample the fare from all the other chefs who will be there.
Leah Scurto moved to the area in 2018 with the intention of opening a pizzeria. She opened in March of 2020, "... a perfect time to open a pizzeria. (...) It went swimmingly." They managed to survive pretty well through Covid, when people were eating a lot of pizza.
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Steve de Veres offers the story of how they found Pizzaleah to add to the roster of restaurants at the Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience. Several of the other chefs at the event told them about her excellent pizza and said that she should be there too. Leah feels fortunate and is grateful that Pizzaleah pizzas are often featured in many local wineries' tasting rooms. Tom Simoneau mentions that he has encountered Pizzaleah pizza while out tasting wine around the area. Pizzaleah is located near the Oliver's market in Windsor at 9240 Old Redwood Hwy., n. 116 Windsor, CA 95492. They are open 11:30am to 8:30pm, or 9:00pm on weekends. They are closed on Mondays (so are most restaurants in Italy, that too is an authentic touch! -ed.) tel. (707) 620-0551.
Justin Seidenfeld
This episode of California Wine Country features two guests from Rodney Strong, Christopher O’Gorman, director of communication and Justin Seidenfeld, VP of viticulture and winemaking. They join Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke in the studio. They describe the revival of the Rodney Strong Concert Series. This year it will feature three concerts over the summer, Tower of Power, Cobie Caillat and Blues Traveller. There will also be two concerts featuring local artists, whom they want to support after the Covid time kept them from being able to perform for big crowds.
(They are in the studio together with Karissa Kruse from the Sonoma County Winegrowers, Leah Scurto from PizzaLeah and Steve De Veres, who is working with Karissa Kruse on organizing the Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience, May 20-22. Hear the podcast episode of that conversation here.)
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the best deals on wine, beer and spirits. Davis Bynum Sauvignon Blanc Tasting The Rodney Strong portfolio includes Davis Bynum wines. He was a pioneer of Sonoma County winemaking. He made the first single vineyard Pinot Noir. This is the Davis Bynum Sauvignon Blanc, Virginia’s Block. It is a Russian River Valley product, so the cool climate give it the usual herbal, zesty, lemon grass flavors. A combination of steel and oak and also acacia gives it floral notes unique to Sauvignon Blanc. Dan Berger describes what makes it great. It is rich as well as tart, which makes it good for food. This wine has the herbal components of Sauvignon Blanc but also has more, such as papaya, guava and other tropical notes. The credit goes to Greg Morthole, the winemaker. The New Rodney Strong Red Blend Justin Seidenfeld also describes their new release, their first ever Rodney Strong Red Blend a 2019 vintage. It is based on Merlot, plus Cabernet Franc from high elevations and some Cabernet Sauvignon. It exhibits Sonoma County identity, a sensual mid-palette, alcohol is balanced, but has some nuance and complexity from the Cabernet Franc and structure from the Cabernet Sauvignon. Dan Berger says it has the richness of both varietals but also has the herbal notes you need to go with the black cherries. “This is a fabulous blend,” says Dan.
Click to visit PizzaLeah online.
They wanted to launch their Red Blend with “a show-stopper” and it goes well with the pizza that Leah Scurto has brought in from her pizzeria, PizzaLeah. It retails for $22, which makes everyone say, “Wow, that’s too low!” It’s selling out faster than they thought. It is already very good and will take some years too. Dan adds that it has silky tannins and the richest aftertaste he has tasted in a long time.
Rodney Strong Wine Club members have access to early ticket sales for the concert series and special access at the concerts, in addition to exclusive access to unique wines.
Tom Simoneau joins California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke, to discuss the Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience, this May 20-22.
The studio is full of guests today. Karissa Kruse from the Sonoma County Winegrowers is here with Steve De Veres. They are organizing the Healdsburg Food and Wine Experience. Award-winning pizza chef Leah Scurto from Pizzaleah is also here and she brought pizza! Christopher O’Gorman, director of communication for Rodney Strong Winery and Justin Seidenfeld, VP of viticulture and winemaking at Rodney Strong make this the most populous show ever.
(Justin Seidenfeld and Christopher O’Gorman also talk about the 2022 Rodney Strong Concert Series and the Rodney Strong wines that Justin brought to the studio, in the next podcast episode, right here, and this episode is all about Pizzaleah.)
Click on the logo to visit PIZZALEAH online. An All-Encompassing Event This year’s edition is intended as the inaugural edition of the Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience and the organizers hope to make it an annual event. Karissa describes their intention to make it an all-encompassing event. It started as a dream that came to them during Covid. They asked themselves how they could create an international wine and food event to raise the profile of agriculture and positive sustainability trends in the region.
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Steve De Veres has spent the last 20+ years representing Food and Wine magazine and describes his efforts on the project. He talks about having done promotional events all over the country, going everywhere but wine country. So he is happy to do one at home this time. He also gives special credit to the Rodney Strong winery. They are donating the use of their fine concert venue for a performance at the Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience. Also, there are special ticket prices for Healdsburg residents.
Dan Berger & Mark Beeman
Mark Beeman, winemaker at Sebastiani, is in the studio today to talk to Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country.
Sebastiani wines has been in business since before 1904, but the vineyard goes all the way back to 1825 when the Franciscan padres who established a mission in Sonoma also planted a vineyard that year. That vineyard is still on the Sebastiani property.
Samuele Sebastiani came from Tuscany and landed in Sonoma County around 1897, working first as a mason. He built a lot of the facilities and facades around the area and at the winery, including the stone arch gate in the illustration above and the Sebastiani Theater, built in 1933. The winery is gorgeous and one of the great visits in the area.
Samuel Sebastiani planted a cherry orchard where Cherry Block is planted today. Samuel’s son August replanted it from cherries to vines in 1961. Cabernet has always been at the heart of this winery. They were labeling it since the 1940s and helped put Sonoma County on the map for Cabernet as a variety. They have the huge old redwood tanks that they used to use, that decorate the tasting room. Mark Beeman Mark Beeman grew up on a cattle ranch, his parents were forensic chemists and he got a degree in Geology. Then he joined the Peace Corps and did agro-forestry and conservation work in Tanzania. When he came back from East Africa, he saw that the wine industry was blossoming in eastern Washington and he got a job at Columbia Crest winery. That led to Conn Creek and Villa Mt. Eden. Later he met Paul Dolan and the Thornhill family who were the new owners of Parducci winery in Ukiah, Mendocino County. He worked there about 12 years. A few years ago he went to Maui to make wine, for three years. Now he has been the winemaker at Sebastiani since December of 2020.
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After Peace Corps he knew he needed more knowledge so he took courses at UC Davis, took online courses and studied at Santa Rosa Junior College. But Mark also gives credit to his colleages. There are other winemakers in the Foley portfolio, such as Chalk Hill and Ferrari-Carrano. They collaborate, debate, talk and learn from each other. “The education isn’t always just at school, it’s also with your co-workers.”
Dan Berger has brought another cellar wine today, a 2017 MacRostie Winery Chardonnay from Sonoma Coast. It has good acidity, bright fruit, and some complexity. For comparison, Mark has brought a 2019 Chardonnay called Patrick’s Block, which Sebastiani controls, so they have full say over everything from dirt to cork. It has lemon peel flavors and Dan says it’s “Burgundian,” that is rich but not just fruity, it has rustic character from lees contact and barrel aging. Tastings With its new ownership, Sebastiani has been a part of Foley Food and Wine Society, since 2008. Mark Beeman works closely with the other winemakers in the group. For example, they just met to discuss how to improve white wines. Membership in the society provides benefits at their many tasting rooms and wineries.
They then taste their Sangiovese, the grape of Chianti wine. It comes from two differently-situated vineyards in Alexander Valley, which produce complimentary flavors. The oak is very light, which Dan Berger says is important for Sangiovese. It has some cranberry flavors too.
At last they taste their 2019 Alexander Valley Cabernet, which showcases what the fruit can do in this area. It won a Double Gold Medal at the SF Chronicle competition.
Donald Patz of Secret Door Wines is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. He was last on CWC on this October 16, 2019 episode.
Donald Patz was a founder and winemaker for the Patz and Hall label for many years, where there were two couples, four partners, making Cardonnay and Pinot Noir from 1988 to 2016. When Ste. Michelle winery in Washington state bought them, he continued working for them for one year, then became independent in 2017. He had a photo of a door in Beijing that he found suggestive and it became the brand and label for Secret Door. “It has been a wonderful transition …” to start again in the business.
Today Dan Berger has once again brought a cellar wine to taste. It is a 2008 Shiraz from Maclaren Vale in Australia called D’Arenberg. The wine is called “The Dead Arm” because of the way they prune the vines, one arm of the vine does not produce fruit. All the tannins have resolved, it’s 15% alcohol but that doesn’t show very much. It is a substantial wine that would go well with BBQ meats. Secret Door Secret Door is 100% Napa Valley Cabernet. The sources are two vineyards, one in Stag’s Leap and another in the eastern hills above Lake Hennessey. He makes them as single vineyard designates. This one is the Sage Ridge, from the mountainside vineyard up near Pritchard Hill. This is a particularly steep area, dry and hard to farm. It is a great place for Cabernet. There are aromatic plants, wild sage and pines, growing around and that gives the place a background aroma that comes through.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the best deals on wine, beer and spirits. Meritana Now they taste the 2019 Meritana Chardonnay. Donald Patz created the three labels to differentiate them. This is Meritana Vineyards which focussess on Russian River Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The vines were planted in 1967 and the vines are 50 years old, interplanted with other vines. Dan Berger says that the vines really show consistency and varietal characteristics after 20 years. Full malolactic, good structure, would go well with lobster.
Dan Berger says that the Meritana label is promising. Why the separate labels, Harry Duke asks? Donald Patz says it’s because they are all truly different and made in different places. Meritana is all for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay while Secret Door is totally focussed on Cabernet. There are some advantages to this, including marketing, since some wine lists may more willingly show three different labels than three wines from the same. Dan Berger points out that in Burgundy, you make Pinot Noir and that’s it. But in California you can be in different places and make the same varietal so your mind set is different.
The Meritana wines are different than the ones he made at Patz and Hall. Chardonnay uses a lot less new oak, so the wines have a fresher feel, and he uses a lot more whole-clusters in the Pinot Noir which brings out an aromatic character that he likes. Dan Berger agrees that this wine does have whole cluster flavors. It runs a risk of stemmy flavors, and you want just some, just not too much.
Mike Cox
Mike Cox, winemaker of La Prenda Wines, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. They opened a tasting room in central Santa Rosa last year. La Prenda is owned by Ned Hill and his wife Erika.
Mike grew up in the farming industry and started making his own wine fifteen years ago. Back then, the big wineries could dictate what they wanted and “the growers could be left holding the bag, in a tough vintage…” He began in 2020 as winemaker and for 25 years before that he was the winemaker at Shoup winery in Sonoma.
Mike Cox grew up in Sonoma County, attended UCLA (in Chemical Engineering) and then took some courses at UC Davis. He took Fall quarter of 1988 off to work the harvest, then transferred to Davis. He was an “eager volunteer” and he especially loved working in the vineyard, and became fascinated with wine. The 1980s was “a fun time to be in the wine industry.” Dan Berger says that Mike Cox’s 2021 wine “blew me away," and adds, "...spending time in the vineyard is the secret to this stuff.”
Today Dan Berger has brought another cellar wine. Dan admits that some of them are junk, but this one today is great. They have all liked the old Sauvignon Blancs. This is a 2011 Simi Sauvignon Blanc. Its citrus notes have come on strong. It has not changed color at all. Simi winery has been around since before Prohibition. They are located north of Healdsburg and they have a nice tasting room. Dan especially loves their Merlots.
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Mike Cox says that La Prenda farms about 1200 acres and they pull some grapes for themselves. First they taste a Rosé of Pinot Noir. These grapes are from the heart of the south part of Sonoma County. The wine is bone dry with no residual sugar. Dan says, “…this is a real Rosé… delicious stuff.” The alcohol is modest, only 12 percent. “It’s a purpose built Rosé.” It is a copper or salmon color.
The next wine they taste is actually called “The Copper.” A friend told him about a white wine made in Friuli in Italy, which is a Pinot Grigio that uses the skins in fermentation. (Grigio means the color “gray” in Italian and the grapes are that color.) It produces wine that is grayish. Dan Berger says it is like a light red wine and it would go well with poached salmon.
They taste a 2020 La Prenda Chardonnay, with light oak and good acidity. It is rich but not overpowering. Mike Cox says the acidity is the key component. He used fruit from different vineyards in order to balance the flavors that are typical of the different areas. Carneros brings acidity and Bennett Valley brings richness.
Finally they taste a 2020 La Prenda Pinot Noir, from Carneros, in the hills west of Sonoma, called Thornton Ranch. The vines are from a Burgundian clone called Pommard. That is a district in Burgundy and the clone that comes from there has aromatic qualities. “…a really good clone from Burgundy.”
David Stare
Dry Creek Vineyard founder David Stare and daughter Kim Stare Wallace join Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. Tom Simoneau is in the studio today. Dry Creek Vineyard was Tom’s Winery of the Year for 2021. This year they celebrate their fiftieth anniversary. They got the front cover of Wine Spectator magazine too.
They are one of the last truly private, family owned wineries in Sonoma County. David Stare grew up in Boston, MA. After graduating college and getting an MBA, he got a job in Germany for a steel company. On weekends, he visited wineries. Then in June 1970 he spent two months in France and decided he wanted to get into the wine business. When he saw an article in the Wall Street Journal about the potential for the wine business in California, it was a sign. In the summer of 1971 he and his family moved to California and he enrolled in courses at UC Davis. He realized that northern Sonoma County had a tradition of grape growing and so he bought a run down prune orchard in 1972 and the rest is history.
In summer 1972 he tried to get a use permit for a winery at his house, which the neighbors objected to. So he was forced to build his winery down the hill. Today, he is glad they are located where they are, because he considers it to be the prime spot in the valley. Tom Simoneau even bottled his first wine at Dry Creek. Fumé Blanc They taste the 2021 Fumé Blanc, their fiftieth vintage. He always liked Fumé Blanc and he planted Sauvignon Blanc even if people told him it was not a good area for it But David turned out to be right. This is their flagship wine and they were the first Sonoma County winery to sell it. Robert Mondavi used the term, and they found that Fumé Blanc sold better than Sauvignon Blanc by 3-1, even if it is just an old-fashioned term for the wine. This sells for $11.99 at Bottle Barn. It was just listed as Wine Spectator’s number seven of best values on the market.
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Then they taste the 2019 Heritage Vines Zinfandel, which was Tom Simoneau’s Zinfandel of the Year last year. Chenin Blanc still sells well, which used to be the most popular white varietal. Dry Creek Vineyard wines have moderate alcohol and good acidity, so they age well. Steve Jaxon mentions Tim Bell, Dry Creek Vineyards’ winemaker, who has been on this show before. Tim Bell joined the staff of Dry Creek Vineyard in 2011, which was a difficult harvest. He used to work at Freemark Abbey and before that, worked in retail. He also worked for Kunde when that family owned the winery. Meritage The Dry Creek Vineyards 2018 Meritage is “a killer” says Tom Simoneau. David Stare was around when the term Meritage was created, a portmanteau between Merit and Heritage. Dan Berger organized a contest in 1988 to find this name and one guy from the East Bay came up with it.
They make two blends, this one called Mariner, is predominately Cabernet Sauvignon. Both of them celebrate the Bordeaux varietals in Dry Creek Valley. This wine has an “under the radar tannic structure” says Barry Herbst.
They have time for one more red, a 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, blended with a little bit of other Bordeaux varieties. David Stare was making Bordeaux blends here in Dry Creek Valley before they became fashionable. All the blends in Bordeaux are blended to some extent.
They are located in the heart of Dry Creek Valley, off the 101 at Dry Creek Road. The place is wide open and beautiful. Most of their tastings are outside right now and they have beautiful gardens and are open 10:30 to 4:30, open every day. Reservations are encouraged. There is a very active wine club, with many single vineyard wines in small amounts.
Jeff Pisoni
Jeff Pisoni, the winemaker at Pisoni Vineyards is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Pisoni Vineyards is located in the Santa Lucia Highlands appellation of Monterey County. Jeff describes going to Fresno State to learn enology but learned the craft and the artistic side of winemaking from his father. He was always fascinated by winemaking and the complex interaction between vines and the wine, while his brother was focussed on the farming. They share and balance their specialties.
Dan Berger says that this is an interesting moment because winemakers are making wines beside Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. There used to be some Riesling in the area and there is so little now. (Dan Berger is a huge Riesling fan.)
Pisoni Vineyards is located in the Santa Lucia highlands in Monterey County. The wind coming off the ocean is cold because of the depth of the trench off the Monterey coast. This makes the Salinas Valley the lettuce capital of the world, where they have more days under 70 degrees in Summer than anywhere else in the country. This same weather is ideal for cool climate grapes at higher elevations. It’s a rustic agricultural area, without a lot of tasting rooms.
First they taste a Rosé from a wine brand of theirs called Lucy. It is whole-cluster pressed Rosé, which Dan Berger compares to a sparkling Rosé without bubbles.
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Next they taste a white Alsatian blend, made of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc. In the early days of planting in Monterey County, these varietals were planted although others are more well-known. Dan Berger says you can taste both varieties, some anise from the Pinot Gris and steeliness from the Pinot Blanc. You might wait a year and these flavors will mature. A Family Operation Jeff Pisoni and his brother Mark and his father Gary all run the family operation. His grandparents started farming and made home wine, but his father planted grapes in 1982 and his passion for wine started as a collector in the 1970s. He just wanted to make wine and jokes that he planted the vineyard because he was drinking his wine collection too quickly. Jeff learned hillside viticultural techniques in Europe. He tried six dry wells before he found enough water for the vineyard. When his father planted grapes in these locations, people were skeptical. Dan Berger says it takes a crazy pioneer to do what he did. Jeff and his brothers grew up around the lettuce fields. He was interested in the science and chemistry and took a degree in enology at Fresno State and he learned the craft from his father.
Dan Berger mentions that there used to be some Riesling in Monterey County and it would be a good place for it still today.
When Jeff was fresh out of college, they were working with a winery that helped them make wine. He knew he needed experience and stayed in the area so he could learn from the wine community around him. Also, there were a lot of refrigerated trucks around for the vegetable business, which they used to bring the grapes to the winery in Sonoma County. Also, all the cork and glass suppliers are all in the area. They have a facility in Rhonert Park, custom built to their specs.
The last wine tasted is a Pisoni Estate Pinot Noir. Jeff’s father Gary Pisoni was planting Pinot Noir while others were still planting Cabernet in Monterey County. Dan Berger says the key thing with Pinot Noir is to pick at the right date, not too early or late. In Santa Lucia Highlands, with all the wind, you have to walk the vineyard twice a day, in order to get the harvest date right.
Dan Fishman
Donum Estate winemaker Dan Fishman joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today in the studio on California Wine Country. This year Donum Estate celebrates 20 years of making Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It was a spinoff of Buena Vista Winery. They sold, but kept their favorite ranch, called Tula Vista, that is down in Carneros. Donum is Latin for “gift” and means that wine is a gift from the land. Anne Moller-Racke came from Germany in 1981 as an investor and owner, trained with the best including André Tchelistcheff, and eventually as owner of Donum Ranch, began rennovating the vineyard. She became an expert vineyard manager and viticulturalist.
Today Dan Berger’s cellar wine is a 2007 Rosé that is rather dark, which was lost in his cellar. It looked like a red wine because he keeps the place so dark. He never intended to age it for 14 years.
They are tasting a 2019 Chardonnay, from the smaller of their two estate vineyards. They planted the vineyard in the late ‘90s. It’s barrell fermented, low percentage of new oak, great acid, Dan calls it “brilliant” and says it has a Burgundian backbone and California aromatics.
Donum Estates sells primarily direct to consumer through their website land they do in-person wine tastings too. They are located in the Carneros region on the Sonoma side, on a 200 acre ranch. They also have a spectacular outdoor art collection, with almost fifty outdoor sculptures. Come for a tasting and a tour for the best view of it. Plan ahead and book a walking or riding tour and a tasting. More Tastings Next they taste a 2020 Pinot Noir from Carneros, freshly bottled. It is a blend called Three Hills. It is a very young wine and will not be released until October 2022. The acidity is parallel to the Chardonnay, with “an underbelly that is unyielding.” It was critical to decide on the picking date, because the region is warmer now than it used to be. They used to harvest after Labor Day but now they pick all in August, in that first window of ripeness, when the fruit is fresh and the acidity is more present.
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Following that, the third wine is from the Carneros reserve tier. There are only 50 cases of this wine. It is the 2020 East Slope Pinot Noir, the slope faces east and gets morning sun. It is a low pH high acid wine. Dan Berger detects a faint hint of cranberry. It needs an extra year before it is to be released.
All of their tastings are private, with a host and there are different tours, either walking or driving on ATVs. It is a spectacular place. From the top hill you can see the Bay and a bit of the San Francisco skyline. They are open daily.
Eric Johannsen, winemaker at La Crema, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. La Crema has specialized in cool climate wines, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, for 40 years. After a couple of ownership changes, Jackson Family Wines purchased the winery in 1996 and has expanded its footprint from Sonoma County to Monterey County and into Oregon.
Eric's twenty-fifth vintage is coming up, most of them with La Crema. Before that he “jumped around” with different internships, saying that he grew up with the brand. Eric has brought a Chardonnay for Steve “Chardonnay” Jaxon, together with a Sauvignon Blanc and a Pinot Noir. La Crema is an iconic name, which came from Spanish “La Crema Viñera” the best or ‘cream’ of the vine.
Dan has brought a cellar dweller wine, a 2006 Sauvignon Blanc made by John Emerich at Silverado Vineyards in the Stag’s Leap area of Napa Valley. Then they taste a 2021 Sauvignon Blanc. This is their third vintage of Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc. La Crema as a brand is famous for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, though. Dan says this has Russian River characteristics. The fruit is mostly from Dry Creek, Alexander Valley and Knight’s Valley, with a little bit of Russian River and a bit of Bennett Valley. This is quite different than Chardonnay. It’s primarily done in stainless steel, but they use a little bit of used oak, to round out some of the edges.
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By Russian River characteristics, Dan means a little spice component that you don’t get in many other places. It has hints of peach and tangerine flavors. Eric describes ‘a spectrum of different ripenesses’ with Sauvignon Blanc, that have different flavor tendencies. Dan Berger says it’s nice to have a contrast between this SB and the ones from New Zealand, which are different, but this one of Sonoma County has both rich fruit and a dry finish. It retails for about $25. If you pick it early or late, you get different results.
La Crema was one of the first wineries to make Pinot Noir with a single vineyard focus. When they started, it was not yet as dominant as it is now. They were still looking or the right places to plant Pinot Noir. Tom Simoneau says that the silver lining of philoxera was that when they had to replant, everyone replanted with new clones and rootstocks, studying soil types, trellising, orientation toward the sun etc.
La Crema has been one of Steve Jaxon’s favorite Chardonnays, he and several million other fans. They taste the 2020 Chardonnay, from cool areas that give the juicy acidity and a litle bit of spice. Tom Simoneau says it has a judicious use of oak, just enough. La Crema Chardonnay is the most popular Chardonnay over $15 in the US.
The last tasting is the La Crema 2019 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. They are using synthetic corks, so those will never spoil and they provide a better more consistent seal. Tom Simoneau tastes dark cherry, Dan Berger says “big, rich but not clumsy…” Dan would prefer it with end cut prime rib.
Nick Goldschmidt
Winemaker Nick Goldschmidt is our in-studio guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He came from New Zealand and has been making wine in California for 32 years. Nick is the owner of Goldschmidt Vineyards. His studies included civil engineering, organics and biodynamics in New Zealand then a degree in viticulture and a post-graduate degree in enology in Australia. After that he worked in Chile in the late ‘80s and then came to California in 1989. He got a job at Simi Winery in 1990, owned by LVMH. Wine and More In 1992 he was appointed their Global Blender, responsible for blends across a wide portfolio of brands produced in several countries. In 1999 Constellation bought them. He left Simi in 2003 to another conglomerate with 58 wineries in 7 countries. He got to collaborate with many great winemakers. Then in 2008 he started his own label. He also owns a company that makes wine for other people, he holds some patents on machinery and he consults to several wineries. He continues to travel extensively in the southern and northern hemispheres.
Nick’s wines as precise scientifically, says Dan Berger, carefully produced and exhibits the character it is supposed to. For someone who makes so much wine in so many places, they are all excellent.
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Dan Berger also has brought a cellar wine again. Since Nick mentioned that he likes Chablis, Dan got a 2006 Chablis from his cellar Joseph Druin Premier Cru. Nick says that this reminds him of where he was in 2006, he worked for the Jim Beam company at the time. He remembers the vintage and later he compared making beer and wine, and says that making wine is different every year, as the art of the practical. Nick prefers that to making beer, which he finds “boring” since it’s the same day-to-day, batch after batch. Tastings The Singing Tree 2019 Goldschmidt Russian River Chardonnay that they taste comes from the Dutton vineyard. This is old vine Chardonnay that is planted in Sonoma County Goldridge soil. Dan Berger notices the shallot flavors in the background and a lemon or citrus note up front and a richness in the center. The Dutton vineyard produces less friut per acre but of extremely high quality.
The next tasting is a wine of his production. He tells the story that he was living in Chile under the dictator, who cut off electricity to the winery, so he had to make wine without it. They converted all their processes to non-electric and called it an “unplugged” wine. It’s named and labeled after his daughter Chelsea.
They are located on Dry Creek Road in Healdsburg. They have a little tasting room. Call (707) 431-8277 for information.
Next they taste a 2020 Alexander Valley Cabernet named Katherine after his middle daughter. It comes from a little valley east of Geyserville.
The last Cabernet is the Forefathers label, a wine he started when he still worked for corporations. He thinks of certain places as the best for certain varieties (SV in NZ, Malbec in ARG, etc). He thinks Cabernet is best made on the north coast. Its label has a pair of boots he used to wear in the vineyard. They call it Lone Tree vineyard because there is one lone tree in it. It is very dark in color.
Bottle Barn's vast selection.
Bottle Barn wine buyer Barry Herbst joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger to taste and describe some recent competition winners available at Bottle Barn, which is the sponsor of this radio show and podcast.
Dan Berger has decades of experience as a wine judge and wine competition manager. This year’s competition season is full of important appointments. Speaking of competition and the upcoming Winter olympics, Dan Berger mentions Ice Wines, some of which are coming from New York and Michigan these days. First Tastings Barry begins with a Gruet sparkling wine. Dan Berger says that they have figured out how to get the grapes from the vineyard in northern New Mexico to the winery in southern New Mexico. It is an expensive process that has to be done carefully. Think-skinned varieties can go for days but thin-skinned grapes like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir have only a few hours before they wilt. This sells for $13.49 per bottle. Barry Herbst has also brought a 2019 Chalk Hill Chardonnay, from the Sonoma Coast, a Double Gold medal winner at the SF Chronicle competition. Wine Competitions The Chronicle competition is in Cloverdale, because the Chronicle people sponsored it where it was, when they joined forces. It used to be the Cloverdale Citrus Fair, before that. Steve Falk who used to work for the Chronicle, now is at the Press Democrat and is starting a new competition there. It is entirely for northern California. The Chronicle is by price categories. Dan Berger does not judge for the Chronicle because he disagrees with the price categories. Any wine is subjected to discounting. For example, at Bottle Barn, many wines are discounted. Therefore, the price categories are not valid, in Dan’s opinion. However he likes the Press Democrat format.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the best deals on wine, beer and spirits. More Tastings Chalk Hill has been known for consistent Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. They are perennial winners in all the competitions and always reasonably priced. Dan Berger describes the Chalk Hill viticultural program led by Mark Lingenfelder who is very respected in the industry. These grapes show his quality, with lemon oil and ‘candle wax’ flavor. That is an unusual term but it seems to work, both as a descriptor and as a source of more jokes than you might have thought possible at first.
Next is a 2020 Mohua Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand that won a Triple Gold at Dan Berger’s International Wine Competition. It’s $10.99 at Bottle Barn and that’s “... fabulous” says Dan. It’s a classic example of New Zealand style wine, with its green grass and lime flavors.
Then they sample a 2006 Gloria Ferrer Pinot Noir, a single vineyard designation from Sonoma Valley. This is Dan Berger’s cellar wine for today. All agree it is delicious.
Finally they taste a de Lorimier Primitivo that won various awards at Harvest Fair (Best of Class) and Double Gold at the Chronicle. It is part of the Wilsonn family portfolio. It is a warm wine that will go well with a winter stew.
Winemaker Scot Covington and owner Denise Trione from Trione Vineyards join Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today, with Harry Duke and Tom Simoneau.
Before we get to Scot and Denise, Dan Berger has again brought some wine from his personal cellar. The first one is a 2008 Navarro Vineyards Muscat Blanc. Muscat is not a wine to keep in the cellar for 13 years, but this one was lost. Muscat is an aromatic white. This one is tasty although it is a bit past its prime. Sometimes if harvested late it can be sweet. This one is not very sweet though. It did get a gold medal the year it was released.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the best deals on wine, beer and spirits. Scot Covington, winemaker Scot Covington says he was lucky to break into the winemaking business. He attended Santa Rosa Junior College then finished his Bachelor’s degree at Fresno St. He got an internship at Sonoma-Cutrer and did some work in wine-producing countries in the southern hemisphere. The last harvest was his seventeenth at Trione.
The Trione family has been farming for three generations in Sonoma County. Denise’s grandfather Henry Trione came to the area in the late 1940s. In the 1970s the family started to purchase and develop vineyards. At one point they were the largest landowner of vineyard properties. They purchased Geyser Peak winery and after some changes in partnerships they sold it in 1998 and went back to growing grapes. After that they wanted to start a small winery to focus on the best of what they are already growing.
They sought Scot for his Russian River Valley resumé, although they also have properties in Alexander Valley. Tom Simoneau remembers that they produced the first boxed wine and others in big jugs. They kept the old stone building built in 1908, which has been renovated and is used for events, especially weddings. They have also built a new winery there. The property is perfect for outdoor tasting. They have planted an olive orchard on the north side of the property and there is a bocce court too. They are open for appointments, Thursday through Sunday, 11-4. It is located right off the 101.
They had a bonded winery number of 350, which they were able to get back, their original number was fifteen thousand seven hundred and something, and we are up to seventeen thousand now. Dan says that one advantage they have is that their vines are mature, even if some of the vines were planted since Scot started there. Tasting Trione White Wines After the break, they begin tasting a 2018 Russian River Chardonnay. Scot says this was a season of dreams and poets and songwriters will have much to describe. “It’s a perfect encapsulation of what Russian River Chardonnay can be.” It won a Gold Medal at the recent SF Chronicle wine competition. It has a bit of white peach, tangerine, citrus, it has a nice tartness. Dan Berger points out that it is young still, and the aftertaste is bright. It retails for $37. It is all barrel fermented and underwent malolactic fermentation. Denise gets hints of nutmeg in it. It has a clean finish even if it is from the oak style.
Next is the reserve Chardonnay. They started their reserve program in January of 2020, when they wanted to refocus on their vineyards. They have so many varietals that she did not want to lose focus on their favorite varietals and clones that they feel they do best, barrel select from only certain clones. It is still a Trione wine but with a new label. Tasting Trione Red Wines Their 2017 Pinot Noir comes from their Russian River Valley ranch. They have fine tuned this wine and there will be a reserve version of it too. This clonal selection of Pinot Noir has evolved and this is a blend of all the clones on that ranch. Tom Simoneau says it has a warm spicy character. It also won a Gold medal at the SF Chronicle competition. Dan Berger says this Pinot Noir is the heart of Russian River Valley and as a 2017 it is just...
Dan Berger and Paul Mabray on California Wine Country.
California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke welcomes Paul Mabray, the CEO of a new site called pix.wine "Pix dot wine" that promises to connect people to wines that bring them joy.
But first, as usual, we will open show with a tasting of a bottle from Dan Berger’s wine cellar. This one is a 2014 Sauvignon Blanc from the Starborough label, based in the Marlborough district of New Zealand. This Sauvignon Blanc ages well, as much as 12 years. This one has held up well, it still has some of the cilantro character that you find in these old wines. The screw top helps in its preservation because there is less oxygen than with corks.
The bottle has a slight green tint. Dan explains that if it were a clear bottle, the wine could be light-struck and it is a wise choice to use the green tint, which actually protects the wine from the effect of ambient UV light. There are some clear glass bottles with UV protectant, but they are more expensive and it is easier to use these light green tinted bottles. And speaking of screw caps, Dan Berger says only 2% of the wines in New Zealand are closed with corks.
Paul Mabray has been in the wine business for twenty years. He was the founder of Wine Direct and now pix.wine (“Pix dot wine”). He calls it the Google of wine. He makes it easy to find and buy wine for anyone searching for nearly any wine.
On the Pix.wine website there is an article about wine in Detroit that caught Steve Jaxon’s eye, since that is his hometown.
Pix.wine allows you to search wine, and to register to get news when the wine you want is available. They are funded by the wine industry. The company is a team of 24 people as of now and they found people with a blend of wine and tech experience. He calls it the dream team of wine. The site has 270,000 names of wines in its searchable database.
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CEO Paul Mabray explains that Pix.wine is in the Beta phase of development, which means it is a work in progress. It has been online only for about a week and today is his first public conversation about it. They are still “working out kinks in Beta.” They will also release a mobile app but they decided to launch online first due to Covid.
Dan Berger appreciates that Paul has tapped into the ability to associate wines that are near your preferences, and allow you to make discoveries.
They taste the 2019 Donum Chardonnay from Sonoma County that Paul has brought. The image on the label is drawn from some sculptural works of the Chinese dissident artist Ai Weiwei. The Donum vineyard has a large sculpture garden and there is an exhibit of gigantic animal heads by Ai Weiwei which represent the years in the Chinese horosope.
The company was named by the #1 naming agency in the world Lexicon, located nearby in Marin, who also named Swiffer, Febreeze, Sonos, Blackberry and many others. They came up with “pix” which combines “picks” meaning choices and “pics” meaning pictures, since people will take pictures of labels and use label pics as identifiers.
Paul Mabray says that the wine industry needs a way to promote wine to younger generations, and that the industry needs tools to make wine more open, easy to discover and easier to understand.
Dan Berger and Dan Barwick and two bottles of Vermentino.
Dan Barwick is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, with Harry Duke also in the studio. Dan Barwick is here to talk about being the winemaker at Trecini Winery, and more. Dan Barwick has been on California Wine Country before, most recently this episode of July 21 2021, and also this episode of July 29, 2022.
First, we have two bottles from Dan Berger’s cellar. First, a Gary Farrell Chardonnay from 2005. It was a really good vintage in Sonoma County. Theresa Heredia who is the winemaker at Gary Farrell has done a fabulous job making these Chardonnays. It is big and rich, full malolactic fermentation, almost oily. “This wine is pretty big.” But it is 17 years old! Only Dan “Lay It Down” Berger keeps Chardonnays this long. The other style, steely and bright, the opposite of this, has been more popular lately. Some people don’t prefer it because the fruit is behind the oak flavors. It’s going to work with lobster served with drawn butter. Dan Barwick says it has a good backbone of acidity, to have lasted this long. Dan Berger also has two bottles left of Iron Horse 2005 Chardonnay, which has no malolactic fermentation, and the two make a great contrast.
ML converts malic acid to lactic acid. Malic acid “apples” lactic “milk” the acids convert to a buttery flavor and the acids become more lush and oily. If you want that style, it’s easy to do.
Trecini Winery is owned by the Vicini family, who started the winery in 1999. There are three of them, so Trecini is an abbreviation of Tre Amici, which means three friends in Italian. They started making a RR Sauvignon Blanc, they also have a Chardonnay. They also have an Italian line, including a Vermentino and Dan Barwick has brought a couple of bottles of that.
Trecini Winery sources Sauvignon Blanc from vineyards that Dan calls mature, which are at least 15 years old, so the vines and their character are more established. They also make Russian River Pinot Noir. Dan describes the process as harvesting while there is still good acidity, keeping the oak under control and letting the wine express itself.
Their tasting room is easy to reach in Santa Rosa. It’s at the corner of 7th and Humboldt.
Dan Barwick brought an Italian Vermentino from Sardinia. Dan Barwick says it is well balanced. It is a white grape native to Italy, almost all in Tuscany, Liguria and Sardinia.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the best deals on wine, beer and spirits, including Trecini wines.
Bottle Barn has lots of Trecini wines. Dan Berger mentions especially their Rosé is also very good. Bottle Barn also has this Vermentino.
The wine is fresh and fruit-forward. This has a more lemony component in the mid-palette, so it would go with delicate seafood dishes. It is almost completely dry, but not totally, so you get some of the richness they built into this wine.
The plan is for Dan Barwick to go to Italy to work with the vineyard to make the wine even better. The label even includes some food pairing ideas, indicating shellfish, seafood and sushi. Dan Berger mentions that a lot of salmon and tuna is in sushi and sashimi, so the strong acidity in this wine makes a good pairing.
Dan Barwick tells the very interesting story of his pathway to becoming a winemaker today, which includes working as a butcher in Harrod’s in London in the ‘70s, then he got moved to the wine department. He took a 6-week training course and he had to organize it and he learned about wine there. He got the job because he was the only one on the staff who knew French. Harrod’s is not an easy place to get a job, says Dan Berger. Then he got promoted to take a two-year course to become a manager in various departments. After that he took a long trip to California for about a year and a half. One evening he came to Tahoe City and entered a bar, where he saw a childhood friend sitting at the bar. He stayed there for a year, working in a restaurant called Sunnyside, as a prep cook then a line cook. In 1991 he got into the wineselling business, then worked a harvest in California in Sonoma County. He took some extension courses at UC Davis but he learned most of what he does from the Santa Rosa Junior College, which is one of the best programs in the country. He studied Viticulture with the “infamous” Rich Thomas. He was an influential teacher and Dan Berger remembers he hated Pinot Noir. That’s understandable because the PN back then wasn’t great the way it is today.
Dan Berger says that Rich Thomas agrees that the Pinot Noirs of today are “drinkable” and that things get better with time.
Dan Barwick says that without a well-developed palette he could not be making wine. Even as a child, he would be able to tell the milk was off a day before anyone else.
Dan Berger has poured his second cellar wine. This is an Italian red variety, a Barbera, which is lower in tanins and higher in acidity. This is from Bill Easton in the Sierra foothills. He also makes other Rhone wines, Syrah and Grenache, etc. Dan Berger and Steve Jaxon love it. It has huge flavor and without strong tannins. The flavors are gorgeous. Fortunately it has been aged at 55 degrees, which is ideal.
Barbera is one of the most popular red wines in Italy, far more than Chianti. -ed.)
Dan Berger and Dan Barwick and two bottles of Vermentino.
Dan Barwick is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, with Harry Duke also in the studio. Dan Barwick is here to talk about being the winemaker at Trecini Winery, and more. Dan Barwick has been on California Wine Country before, most recently this episode of July 21 2021, and also this episode of July 29, 2022.
First, we have two bottles from Dan Berger’s cellar. First, a Gary Farrell Chardonnay from 2005. It was a really good vintage in Sonoma County. Theresa Heredia who is the winemaker at Gary Farrell has done a fabulous job making these Chardonnays. It is big and rich, full malolactic fermentation, almost oily. “This wine is pretty big.” But it is 17 years old! Only Dan “Lay It Down” Berger keeps Chardonnays this long. The other style, steely and bright, the opposite of this, has been more popular lately. Some people don’t prefer it because the fruit is behind the oak flavors. It’s going to work with lobster served with drawn butter. Dan Barwick says it has a good backbone of acidity, to have lasted this long. Dan Berger also has two bottles left of Iron Horse 2005 Chardonnay, which has no malolactic fermentation, and the two make a great contrast.
ML converts malic acid to lactic acid. Malic acid “apples” lactic “milk” the acids convert to a buttery flavor and the acids become more lush and oily. If you want that style, it’s easy to do.
Trecini Winery is owned by the Vicini family, who started the winery in 1999. There are three of them, so Trecini is an abbreviation of Tre Amici, which means three friends in Italian. They started making a RR Sauvignon Blanc, they also have a Chardonnay. They also have an Italian line, including a Vermentino and Dan Barwick has brought a couple of bottles of that.
Trecini Winery sources Sauvignon Blanc from vineyards that Dan calls mature, which are at least 15 years old, so the vines and their character are more established. They also make Russian River Pinot Noir. Dan describes the process as harvesting while there is still good acidity, keeping the oak under control and letting the wine express itself.
Their tasting room is easy to reach in Santa Rosa. It’s at the corner of 7th and Humboldt.
Dan Barwick brought an Italian Vermentino from Sardinia. Dan Barwick says it is well balanced. It is a white grape native to Italy, almost all in Tuscany, Liguria and Sardinia.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the best deals on wine, beer and spirits, including Trecini wines.
Bottle Barn has lots of Trecini wines. Dan Berger mentions especially their Rosé is also very good. Bottle Barn also has this Vermentino.
The wine is fresh and fruit-forward. This has a more lemony component in the mid-palette, so it would go with delicate seafood dishes. It is almost completely dry, but not totally, so you get some of the richness they built into this wine.
The plan is for Dan Barwick to go to Italy to work with the vineyard to make the wine even better. The label even includes some food pairing ideas, indicating shellfish, seafood and sushi. Dan Berger mentions that a lot of salmon and tuna is in sushi and sashimi, so the strong acidity in this wine makes a good pairing.
Dan Barwick tells the very interesting story of his pathway to becoming a winemaker today, which includes working as a butcher in Harrod’s in London in the ‘70s, then he got moved to the wine department. He took a 6-week training course and he had to organize it and he learned about wine there. He got the job because he was the only one on the staff who knew French. Harrod’s is not an easy place to get a job, says Dan Berger. Then he got promoted to take a two-year course to become a manager in various departments. After that he took a long trip to California for about a year and a half. One evening he came to Tahoe City and entered a bar, where he saw a childhood friend sitting at the bar.
Don Chigazola
Don Chigazola is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Don Chigazola runs Chigazola Merchants, which imports specially selected wines from Italy direct to consumers here in California. He and his son spent the month of September in Italy, meeting current producers and looking for new ones.
The first wines come from Benedetti & Grigi, one of his suppliers. First, they taste a Grechetto, named Eros, to honor the grape’s Greek origins. It’s not like a Chard at all, not rich, but rather green and lemony. It’s light on the palette and easy to drink. It is popular in Umbria with first courses, soups, salads and seafood.
Next they taste a Trebbiano Spoletino. It comes from the Spoleto Valley, where the town of the same name with the famous music festival is located. Trebbiano is a common white wine grape, and the Trebbiano from around there is called Spoletino.
This is an autoctonous variety, meaning that it is indigenous and originates from that area. There are two autoctonous varietals from Umbria, Trebbiano and Sagrantino, the red that we will taste later. Dan Berger notices that this wine has aromatics that suggest a bit of both Pinot Grigio and Gewurtztraminer. The spice is subtle and it would go well with fish cooked with fruit. One example is Sole Veronique, which is poached in white grape juice. This wine is very dry, as are all these wines.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the best deals on wine, beer and spirits.
The Grechetto retails for $30 and the Spoleto for $34. The Spoleto is a 2019 and the Grechetto is a 2020. They put the Spoleto down for a year, which Dan says gives it a softness on the palette and balances it. The vineyards are at about 400 meters elevation, about 1300 feet.
These local produers that work with Chigazola Merchants do not make enough wine to even get distribution in large retail chains. These families have been in local agriculture for generations and recently began making wine. The winemaker, Matteo Bassili is doing great work. Sonia Maspero in Milan, Italy, has reorded this pronunciation guide for the wines that Don Chigazola has brought in today.
https://secureservercdn.net/198.71.233.28/a1j.e4a.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/SONIA_Dec_2021_Pronunciation.mp3
Don describes his favorite way to find the best local wine. There are always public spaces in Italian towns where you can ask the locals for advice. Don introduces himself and looks for the consensus local favorite, then he meets the producers and looks for the best ones to import through Chigazola Merchants.
Next they have a 2017 blend, a DOC red wine called Montefalco Rosso, 70% Sangiovese, 20% Sagrantino and 10% Merlot. Dan Berger likes it now and says it will be so much more in two or three years. A bottle like this can taste even better the next day. Dan also likes that the alcohol is not so high as to be overpowering.
Next they taste a DOCG Sagrantino. The Sagrantino grape is very tannic and requires years of age before it is approachable. The current release is the 2015. It is a really heavyweight wine, but if done well, will be smooth and age for 25 years or more. Dan suggests decanting it for 24 hours before drinking, because the aereation helps a lot. Dan does have some 25 year old Chianti but which has not held up, that is too long for Chianti.
Don notes that these vines, growing at about 1300 feet elevation, are pruned to yield only about 2 tons per acre. They will drop a lot of fruit to maintain the character and intensity of the remaining fruit. Dan Berger says that gives it intensity and power without any raisiny or oily richness. Montefalco Sagrantino first came out in the ‘70s as a desert wine, as a passito, made with dried grapes. It wasn’t until the ‘90s that the dry Sagrantino became popular. So there aren’t a lot of 25 year old Sagrantinos around.
Don Chigazola says that Montefalco is beautiful a hilltop town surrounded by vineyards.
Don Chigazola
Don Chigazola is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Don Chigazola runs Chigazola Merchants, which imports specially selected wines from Italy direct to consumers here in California. He and his son spent the month of September in Italy, meeting current producers and looking for new ones.
The first wines come from Benedetti & Grigi, one of his suppliers. First, they taste a Grechetto, named Eros, to honor the grape’s Greek origins. It’s not like a Chard at all, not rich, but rather green and lemony. It’s light on the palette and easy to drink. It is popular in Umbria with first courses, soups, salads and seafood.
Next they taste a Trebbiano Spoletino. It comes from the Spoleto Valley, where the town of the same name with the famous music festival is located. Trebbiano is a common white wine grape, and the Trebbiano from around there is called Spoletino.
This is an autoctonous variety, meaning that it is indigenous and originates from that area. There are two autoctonous varietals from Umbria, Trebbiano and Sagrantino, the red that we will taste later. Dan Berger notices that this wine has aromatics that suggest a bit of both Pinot Grigio and Gewurtztraminer. The spice is subtle and it would go well with fish cooked with fruit. One example is Sole Veronique, which is poached in white grape juice. This wine is very dry, as are all these wines.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the best deals on wine, beer and spirits.
The Grechetto retails for $30 and the Spoleto for $34. The Spoleto is a 2019 and the Grechetto is a 2020. They put the Spoleto down for a year, which Dan says gives it a softness on the palette and balances it. The vineyards are at about 400 meters elevation, about 1300 feet.
These local produers that work with Chigazola Merchants do not make enough wine to even get distribution in large retail chains. These families have been in local agriculture for generations and recently began making wine. The winemaker, Matteo Bassili is doing great work.
Sonia Maspero in Milan, Italy, has reorded this pronunciation guide for the wines that Don Chigazola has brought in today.
http://calwinecountry.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/SONIA_Dec_2021_Pronunciation.mp3 Don describes his favorite way to find the best local wine. There are always public spaces in Italian towns where you can ask the locals for advice. Don introduces himself and looks for the consensus local favorite, then he meets the producers and looks for the best ones to import through Chigazola Merchants.
Next they have a 2017 blend, a DOC red wine called Montefalco Rosso, 70% Sangiovese, 20% Sagrantino and 10% Merlot. Dan Berger likes it now and says it will be so much more in two or three years. A bottle like this can taste even better the next day. Dan also likes that the alcohol is not so high as to be overpowering.
Next they taste a DOCG Sagrantino. The Sagrantino grape is very tannic and requires years of age before it is approachable. The current release is the 2015. It is a really heavyweight wine, but if done well, will be smooth and age for 25 years or more. Dan suggests decanting it for 24 hours before drinking, because the aereation helps a lot. Dan does have some 25 year old Chianti but which has not held up, that is too long for Chianti.
Don notes that these vines, growing at about 1300 feet elevation, are pruned to yield only about 2 tons per acre. They will drop a lot of fruit to maintain the character and intensity of the remaining fruit. Dan Berger says that gives it intensity and power without any raisiny or oily richness. Montefalco Sagrantino first came out in the ‘70s as a desert wine, as a passito, made with dried grapes. It wasn’t until the ‘90s that the dry Sagrantino became popular. So there aren’t a lot of 25 year old Sagrantinos around.
Don Chigazola says that Montefalco is beautiful a hilltop town surrounded by vineyards. Umbria is worth a visit. The largest city that it’s near is Perugia, which is not large, compared to say, Rome or Florence. It’s about a 2 and a half hour drive north of Rome.
Tom Simoneau
Tom Simoneau joins Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke on California Wine Country today, to present his 2021 Wines of the Year, including the book of the year and winery of the year.
Best Whites Sparkling Wine:
Domaine Carneros 2014 Le Rêve Blanc De Blancs, Estate Grown, $120.
Every now and then we all need to do something special for ourselves, a new car or a pair of earrings for your beautiful wife. Well that’s what this Sparkling wine is all about – something special. French for “the dream,” Le Rêve is a wine that once you taste it, you’ll dream about it. What’s the best wine you’ve ever tasted? If you haven’t tasted Le Rêve, you haven’t had it yet.
www.domainecarenos.com
Chardonnay:
MacRostie Winery and Vineyards 2019 Sonoma Coast, $25.While single vineyard bottlings are all the rage, sometimes the blended wines lead the pack. This Sonoma Coast bottling is a blend of seven different vineyards including Sangiacomo, Dutton and Martinelli. Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen has done a masterful job to create a wine with layers of complexity. And to top it all off, only a partial secondary (ML) fermentation was completed. Did I say food friendly?
www.macrostiewinery.com
Book of the Year Big Macs & Burgundy, Wine Pairings for the Real World by Vanessa Price with Adam Laukhuf, published by Abrams Publishing, $24.99.
Vanessa Price is a sommelier with a sense of humor. She was born in Kentucky, the granddaughter of evangelical ministers. So how did she get into the wine business and come to write this book? You didn’t think I was going to tell ya? You’re going to have to read this book. And Vanessa if you’re listening, I’m sorry about your sister. vanessa@vinumco.com
Sauvignon Blanc:
Ladera Vineyards 2020 Napa Valley, $36.They say that great wine is made in the vineyard and this Sauvignon Blanc is a shining example. Organically grown on Ryan’s Vineyard in the Oak Knoll District AVA, the wine is 58% Sauvignon Blanc and 42% Sauvignon Musque. And yes, winemaker Jade Barrett did his thing in the winery but, with one sniff and a taste, you can tell these grapes are special. www.laderavineyards.com
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the best prices on wine, beer and spirits.
Off Dry White:
Swanson Vineyards 2019 Pinot Grigio, San Benito, $21.Best known for its Napa Valley Merlot, Swanson is not a one trick pony. The perfect alternative to Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, this well made Pinot Grigio comes from San Benito which is a sub appellation of the Central Coast AVA. Think Monterey Bay and Santa Lucia Highlands, a refreshingly, aromatic, light white wine – delish.
www.swansonvineyards.com
Alternative White:
Orsi Family 2020 Biancolella d’lschia, Filomena’s Block, Dry Creek Valley, $28.Never heard of the grape Biancolella? Its roots can be traced to Campania in Southern Italy – near Naples. At Orsi, their family motto is Italian roots in Sonoma County soil. The vineyards are in the hills of Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma County. Their tasting room is just outside of Healdsburg. (For you locals, the old Alderbrook Winery.) But it may as well be just outside of Naples because if your palate swings toward Italian wine, Orsi is an incredible find. Whites and reds will blow your mind.
www.orsifamilyvineyards.com
Best Value White:
Korbel Wine Cellars 2018 Natural, Russian River Valley Champagne, $17.How do they do this at Korbel year in and year out? Sparkling wine is not easy to produce. It’s costly as you have to ferment it twice. And this Champagne is made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, also not cheap. So how’d they do it… do you believe in magic? Often discounted, I suggest buying by the case.
www.korbel.com
Rosé:Rodney Strong Vineyards 2020 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, $25.This is why Rosés are so popular. Everything you look for in a great Rosé is in this bottle. The nose is fresh fruit like you read about. The mouth feel is bracing and perfectly balanced. Winemaker, Justin Seidenfeld, is captain of this ship and he’s headed for stardom. Look for their newly redesigned label.
www.rodneystrong.com
Best Reds Cabernet Sauvignon:
Turnbull Wine Cellars 2019 Oakville Reserve Estate Grown, Napa Valley, $95.There are a lot of unsolved mysteries in this world. In the wine business the term terroir falls into this category. Terroir is defined as the taste of the place where the grapes were grown. But you can’t taste dirt… right? So why are there special places around the planet where everyone agrees the best grapes are grown? It’s a mystery to me, but I’m here to tell this Turnbull Cabernet comes from a very special place. This wine is big in a soft sort of way, smooth and balanced. Winemaker Peter Heitz has hit the bulls eye on this one – WOW!
www.turnbullwines.com
Zinfandel:
Dry Creek Vineyard 2019 Old Vine, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, $38.The term “Old Vine” was first coined by Dry Creek Vineyards in 1987. Although there is no legal definition, vines that average more than 50 years in age are referred to as “Old Vine”. The vines in this 2019 average more than 100 years old and in some cases nearly 140 years old. If age is this good… I can’t wait to be 100!
www.drycreekvineyard.com
Merlot:B. R. Cohn 2018 Petricka Vineyard Sonoma Valley, $40.Okay, okay, enough already. I’ve heard too much about the movie Sideways. It came out in 2004. It’s ancient history! Merlot is one of the best selling red wines in the U.S. and there is a reason for that. People like Merlot. And this B. R. Cohn is up there with some of the best I’ve had.
www.brcohn.com
Rhone Wine:
Foppiano Vineyards 2017 Petite Sirah Russian River Valley Estate Grown, $28.When I say Kleenex, you think tissues, Chap Stick – lip balm, Q-tips – cotton swabs. And there was a time when I’d say Foppiano you would immediately think Petite Sirah. I know it was back in the day when they were far fewer wineries in our North Coast. Think of it. Foppiano was established in 1896 and is on its 6th generation as family owned and operated; still making great Petite Sirah. So when I say Foppiano… think Petite Sirah.
www.foppiano.com
Blended Red:
Paraduxx 2018 Napa Valley Red Wine, Rector Creek Vineyard Block 4, $85.There are perfect pairings everyone agrees with – bacon and eggs and burgers and fries. But, Petit Verdot and Zinfandel? Okay, okay, it sounds crazy, but work with me here. At Paraduxx there are no rules when it comes to blending. So, yes, Petit Verdot and Zinfandel. The star studded portfolio is a mind blower of flavors and complexities. If you dare, take a walk on the wild side and reach for a bottle of Paraduxx. You won’t be disappointed!
www.paraduxx.com
Best Buy Red:
J. Lohr Estates 2019 South Ridge Syrah Paso Robles, $15.Is it harder to make a good $15 wine or a good $50 wine? Winemakers say wine is made in the vineyard. So with the cost of grapes these days, I say harder to make a real good $15 wine. And this Syrah is really good. A blend of 93% Syrah, 3% Grenache Noir, 2% Mourvedre, and 2% Viognier.
www.jlohr.com
Most Fun Wine:
Baker Family Wines 2018 Hammerin’ Hank Cabernet Sauvignon, $60.Renowned baseball manager Dusty Baker has his own winery with a tasting room in West Sacramento. Hank Aaron and Dusty created this wine prior to his passing this last January. Hard to find, bottled in tiny lots. Look for the distinctive 755 on the label.
www.bakerfamilywines.com
Sweet Red:
Pedroncelli Winery 2015 Vintage Port, Four Grapes, Dry Creek Valley, $28.Pedroncelli has been around for a long time, a very long time, 1927 to be exact. Wars, downturns in the economy, phyloxera, and now a pandemic. And with the pandemic has come supply chain challenges. In the case of this gold medal winning Port, glass shortages. When it came time to bottle, there were no 500ml bottles to be had. Sooo… they bottled in 750ml bottles instead. Hey, you’ve got to roll with the punches. So with each bottle purchased of this concentrated warm spiced and chocolate beauty, you get an extra 250mls. Did I say dessert?
www.pedroncelli.com
Pinot Noir:
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery 2019 Russian River Selection, Russian River Valley, $45.This Pinot is the perfect example of showing off a winemaker’s art. Theresa Heredia blended this wine from seven different Russian River vineyard sites. 2019 is an exceptional vintage and although young, this wine is eminently drinkable tonight and will develop complexity with additional bottle aging.
www.garyfarrellwinery.com
Alternate Red:
GMerriam Vineyards 2019 Cabernet Franc, Windacre Vineyard, Russian River Valley, $45.I get no respect! Most people attribute that statement to Rodney Dangerfield. But no… it originally came from Cabernet Franc. How can one of the parents of Cabernet Sauvignon play second fiddle? I say if all Cabernet Franc tasted like this Merriam, the Franc days as the backup to Cabernet Sauvignon would be numbered. Internet or winery only and worth the extra effort!
www.merriamvineyards.com
Luxury Wine:Timeless 2018, Napa Valley Red Wine, Soda Canyon Ranch, $195.While the batons are being passed by wineries that were founded in the ’70s, some families are selling because the kids aren’t interested in taking over the family business. Not so with Ray Duncan the cofounder of Silver Oak. Silver Oak is in good hands with his sons and now a new venture Timeless. What started as a song composed by Ray’s son David for his father’s birthday is now a new brand. Timeless is not cheap, but it is exceptional! Full, rich and well balanced.
Click on timeless.wine to read the story and listen to the song.
Winery of the Year Dry Creek VineyardsEvery winery has a story, some better than others. The history of Dry Creek Vineyards runs deep. Established in 1972 by Dave Stare, Dry Creek Vineyard was the first new winery in the Dry Creek Valley following Prohibition, the first to plant Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek, first to label a wine with the Dry Creek Appellation, first to release a wine using the classification Meritage and the first to coin the term “Old Vine” Zinfandel. Congratulations to David Stare and family… Dry Creeks’s 1st Family – my Winery of the Year. www.drycreekvineyard.com
Tom Simoneau can be reached at tom@simoneauvineyards.com or (707) 921-2722.
Tom Simoneau
Tom Simoneau joins Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke on California Wine Country today, to present his 2021 Wines of the Year, including the book of the year and winery of the year. Best Whites Sparkling Wine: Domaine Carneros 2014 Le Rêve Blanc De Blancs, Estate Grown, $120. Every now and then we all need to do something special for ourselves, a new car or a pair of earrings for your beautiful wife. Well that’s what this Sparkling wine is all about – something special. French for “the dream,” Le Rêve is a wine that once you taste it, you’ll dream about it. What’s the best wine you’ve ever tasted? If you haven’t tasted Le Rêve, you haven’t had it yet. www.domainecarenos.com
Chardonnay: MacRostie Winery and Vineyards 2019 Sonoma Coast, $25. While single vineyard bottlings are all the rage, sometimes the blended wines lead the pack. This Sonoma Coast bottling is a blend of seven different vineyards including Sangiacomo, Dutton and Martinelli. Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen has done a masterful job to create a wine with layers of complexity. And to top it all off, only a partial secondary (ML) fermentation was completed. Did I say food friendly? www.macrostiewinery.com
Book of the Year Big Macs & Burgundy, Wine Pairings for the Real World by Vanessa Price with Adam Laukhuf, published by Abrams Publishing, $24.99.
Vanessa Price is a sommelier with a sense of humor. She was born in Kentucky, the granddaughter of evangelical ministers. So how did she get into the wine business and come to write this book? You didn’t think I was going to tell ya? You’re going to have to read this book. And Vanessa if you’re listening, I’m sorry about your sister. vanessa@vinumco.com
Sauvignon Blanc: Ladera Vineyards 2020 Napa Valley, $36. They say that great wine is made in the vineyard and this Sauvignon Blanc is a shining example. Organically grown on Ryan’s Vineyard in the Oak Knoll District AVA, the wine is 58% Sauvignon Blanc and 42% Sauvignon Musque. And yes, winemaker Jade Barrett did his thing in the winery but, with one sniff and a taste, you can tell these grapes are special. www.laderavineyards.com
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online for the best prices on wine, beer and spirits.
Off Dry White: Swanson Vineyards 2019 Pinot Grigio, San Benito, $21. Best known for its Napa Valley Merlot, Swanson is not a one trick pony. The perfect alternative to Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, this well made Pinot Grigio comes from San Benito which is a sub appellation of the Central Coast AVA. Think Monterey Bay and Santa Lucia Highlands, a refreshingly, aromatic, light white wine – delish. www.swansonvineyards.com
Alternative White: Orsi Family 2020 Biancolella d’lschia, Filomena’s Block, Dry Creek Valley, $28. Never heard of the grape Biancolella? Its roots can be traced to Campania in Southern Italy – near Naples. At Orsi, their family motto is Italian roots in Sonoma County soil. The vineyards are in the hills of Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma County. Their tasting room is just outside of Healdsburg. (For you locals, the old Alderbrook Winery.) But it may as well be just outside of Naples because if your palate swings toward Italian wine, Orsi is an incredible find. Whites and reds will blow your mind. www.orsifamilyvineyards.com
Best Value White: Korbel Wine Cellars 2018 Natural, Russian River Valley Champagne, $17. How do they do this at Korbel year in and year out? Sparkling wine is not easy to produce. It’s costly as you have to ferment it twice. And this Champagne is made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, also not cheap. So how’d they do it… do you believe in magic? Often discounted, I suggest buying by the case. www.korbel.com
Rosé: Rodney Strong Vineyards 2020 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, $25. This is why Rosés are so popular. Everything you look for in a great Rosé is in this bottle.
Clark Smith
Clark Smith is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke today. Clark has been on California Wine Country a few times before, including this most recent episode on September 15 of 2021. Today Clark Smith will tell about his book and his website dedicated to pairing wine with music.
But before we begin with Clark, we will taste a bottle from Dan Berger’s extensive personal cellar. This is a 2004 Peter Lehman Shiraz from Australia. It is a bit rich and has some plum flavors. It is 17 years old and is past its prime. It was lost in the cellar and Dan forgot about it.
Clark Smith is back with us on California Wine Country today. He is a consultant to about 120 wineries, after a whole career training wine makers. He loves European wines, which are balanced and age well. He calls that “Euro-centric wines.” He likes to say that he makes American “forgeries” of European styles. Today we will taste his Cabernet Franc which is a good example of that. He also likes to use an American grape called Norton.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Clark Smith has published a book on this subject, called A Practical Guide to Pairing Wine and Music, which is available as a Kindle book on amazon, at that link. Wines are like music. They are liquid music. They can carry emotion. Wines are happy and sad too. For example: If you want to make a Cabernet Sauvignon taste terrible, play a polka. Cabernets are dark and angry and if you play happy music around it, it will taste awful.
Clark Smith credits Don Blackburn for coming up with this idea. Dan is a friend of Clark Smith and he didn’t like the Aroma Wheel approach as a framework for the flavors of wine. He wants to look at the whole wine. He did an experiment with about 100 people, and he gives people 3 wines, a Beaujolais Nouveau, a Pinot Noir from Burgundy and a big bad Cab. Then he played the following music:
• a Mozart divertimento, in the Classical style (late eighteenth century) • a Franz Liszt piece for piano (mid-nineteenth century) • Carl Orff's Carmina Burana, a heavy chanting and rhythmic D minor jam for chorus and orchestra (mid-twentieth century)
Then he asked people to match the wines to the music. If it had been random, the assignments would have been about evenly distributed among the wines. But people put the light frilly music with the Beaujolais and the Carmina Burana with the Cabernet.
That’s an intellectual exercise. But then, try playing the Carmina Burana with the Beaujolais, and it tasted horrible. What it means is that the feeling in the music and the wine can be aligned, or misaligned, and you can sense that. For the rest of this very interesting episode, we hear music and taste wine and compare the sensations of the pairings.
Clark Smith
Clark Smith is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke today. Clark has been on California Wine Country a few times before, including this most recent episode on September 15 of 2021. Today Clark Smith will tell about his book and his website dedicated to pairing wine with music.
But before we begin with Clark, we will taste a bottle from Dan Berger’s extensive personal cellar. This is a 2004 Peter Lehman Shiraz from Australia. It is a bit rich and has some plum flavors. It is 17 years old and is past its prime. It was lost in the cellar and Dan forgot about it.
Clark Smith is back with us on California Wine Country today. He is a consultant to about 120 wineries, after a whole career training wine makers. He loves European wines, which are balanced and age well. He calls that “Euro-centric wines.” He likes to say that he makes American “forgeries” of European styles. Today we will taste his Cabernet Franc which is a good example of that. He also likes to use an American grape called Norton.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Clark Smith has published a book on this subject, called A Practical Guide to Pairing Wine and Music, which is available as a Kindle book on amazon, at that link.
Wines are like music.
They are liquid music.
They can carry emotion.
Wines are happy and sad too.
For example: If you want to make a Cabernet Sauvignon taste terrible, play a polka. Cabernets are dark and angry and if you play happy music around it, it will taste awful.
Clark Smith credits Don Blackburn for coming up with this idea. Dan is a friend of Clark Smith and he didn’t like the Aroma Wheel approach as a framework for the flavors of wine. He wants to look at the whole wine. He did an experiment with about 100 people, and he gives people 3 wines, a Beaujolais Nouveau, a Pinot Noir from Burgundy and a big bad Cab. Then he played the following music:
• a Mozart divertimento, in the Classical style (late eighteenth century)
• a Franz Liszt piece for piano (mid-nineteenth century)
• Carl Orff’s Carmina Burana, a heavy chanting and rhythmic D minor jam for chorus and orchestra (mid-twentieth century)
Then he asked people to match the wines to the music. If it had been random, the assignments would have been about evenly distributed among the wines. But people put the light frilly music with the Beaujolais and the Carmina Burana with the Cabernet.
That’s an intellectual exercise. But then, try playing the Carmina Burana with the Beaujolais, and it tasted horrible. What it means is that the feeling in the music and the wine can be aligned, or misaligned, and you can sense that. For the rest of this very interesting episode, we hear music and taste wine and compare the sensations of the pairings.
Greg Morthole is our guest again on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke today. Greg has been on this show twice before, on October 10, 2018 and again in this other episode from January 15, 2020.
The Davis Bynum site says “The original Russian River Valley Pinot Noir,” and Steve asks Greg about that. Back in 1973, Davis Bynum was one of the first Pinot Noir producers in Russian River Valley, as so designated on the label. He used Joe Rocchioli’s grapes and his first winery was on West Side Road, built it out of an old hop kiln. There were probably others doing it too, but they were the first to label it as such. Dan Berger has a bottle of that ’73 somewhere in his cellar.
After Davis retired and the Cline family acquired the brand, it really took off. Also, the wine’s stability improved with investments the new owners made. Davis Bynum Davis was born in 1925 and made his first wine in 1951, with a friend. He must have gone to Krug because they bought grapes from Robert Mondavi. Next year they went further up the valley and met Louis Martini. For 15 years, his day job was as a reporter for the SF Chronicle. He decided to start a winery. For a while they were buying bulk wines and blending them to taste. He then bought a property in Napa and wanted to build a winery there, but he could not get local approvals, so he sold it and moved to Sonoma County. He tasted a Pinot Noir made in Sonoma County and decided that this was the place to be and the wine to be making.
Davis met Tom Cline in the 90s in London at a wine fair many years ago and Davis mentioned that he might want to sell the winery one day. In 2007, “they shook hands on it.” The Cline family has a long history in California agriculture. Dan Berger says that the location is ideal for grape growing, and the Cline family has chosen good locations and developed good systems and equipment. Greg started with Rodney Strong in 2005 and started with Davis Bynum in 2010. Dan Berger's Cellar Dweller Dan’s cellar wine today is a 2010 Davis Bynum Pinot Noir, which means that Greg made it. The vineyard is Jane’s, on Woolsey Road. It has rolling hills like big ocean waves 30 feet high. The vineyard was planted to 8 clones of Pinot Noir, including two unusual Swiss ones, and a heritage clone brought over in the 1940s or 50s. 2011 was a cold year.
Pinot Noir doesn’t handle the heat well. In a cold year, “you can hang on to the acid and you get this bright berry fruit tone…” Dan says that it was fruity before, with cherry flavor, but now it has taken on a second layer of “forest floor” flavors. This is Dan’s last bottle of this. It has a great finish and is rich without being alcoholic. It carries its weight because of the acidity. Greg says that is a characteristic that he strives for.
Davis Bynum is open Thursday through Monday, 10am to 5pm. Davis Bynum wine is being poured at the Rodney Strong tasting room. They have a Davis Bynum flight of five wines, there is a Rodney Strong flight too.
Dan Berger remembers Davis Bynum as a wonderful, soft-spoken man who made excellent wine but who flew under the radar. Two Pinot Noirs and a Chardonnay Next they taste a 2018 Russian River Pinot Noir from 2 vineyards, one is Jane's Vineyard near the middle, then the other is Dutton Ranch, up in Green Valley. Steve agrees it is velvety and smooth and very drinkable. Dan Berger says it needs at least 2 or 3 more years, or to be decanted for an hour.
After that they taste a 2019 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir, from cool-climate Green Valley AVA. Dan says it has a great aftertaste that "goes on and on and on." Greg thinks this would be a good one to age for 10 years and Dan agrees. "This is a structurally fabulous wine," he says. Greg Morthole says you get good fruit and acidity from this vineyard, including potpourri and citrus.
Finally there is a Chardonnay, which is Steve's favorite. This is the 2018 River West Chardonnay.
Greg Morthole is our guest again on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke. Greg has been on this show twice before, on October 10, 2018 and again in this other episode from January 15, 2020.
The Davis Bynum site says “The original Russian River Valley Pinot Noir,” and Steve asks Greg about that. Back in 1973, Davis Bynum was one of the first Pinot Noir producers in Russian River Valley, as so designated on the label. He used Joe Rocchioli’s grapes and his first winery was on West Side Road, built it out of an old hop kiln. There were probably others doing it too, but they were the first to label it as such. Dan Berger has a bottle of that ’73 somewhere in his cellar.
After Davis retired and the Cline family acquired the brand, it really took off. Also, the wine’s stability improved with investments the new owners made.
Davis was born in 1925 and made his first wine in 1951, with a friend. He must have gone to Krug because they bought grapes from Robert Mondavi. Next year they went further up the valley and met Louis Martini. For 15 years, his day job was as a reporter for the SF Chronicle. He decided to start a winery. For a while they were buying bulk wines and blending them to taste. He then bought a property in Napa and wanted to build a winery there, but he could not get local approvals, so he sold it and moved to Sonoma County. He tasted a Pinot Noir made in Sonoma County and decided that this was the place to be and the wine to be making.
Davis met Tom Cline in the 90s in London at a wine fair many years ago and Davis mentioned that he might want to sell the winery one day. In 2007, “they shook hands on it.” The Cline family has a long history in California agriculture.
Dan Berger says that the location is ideal for grape growing, and the Cline family has chosen good locations and developed good systems and equipment.
Greg started with Rodney Strong in 2005 and started with Davis Bynum in 2010.
Dan’s cellar wine today is a 2010 Davis Bynum Pinot Noir, which means that Greg made it. The vineyard is Jane’s, on Woolsey Road. It has rolling hills like big ocean waves 30 feet high. The vineyard was planted to 8 clones of Pinot Noir, including two unusual Swiss ones, and a heritage clone brought over in the 1940s or 50s. 2011 was a cold year. Pinot Noir doesn’t handle the heat well. In a cold year, “you can hang on to the acid and you get this bright berry fruit tone…” Dan says that it was fruity before, with cherry flavor, but now it has taken on a second layer of “forest floor” flavors. This is Dan’s last bottle of this. It has a great finish and is rich without being alcoholic. It carries its weight because of the acidity. Greg says that is a characteristic that he strives for.
Davis Bynum is open Thursday through Monday, 10am to 5pm. Davis Bynum wine is being poured at the Rodney Strong tasting room. They have a Davis Bynum flight of five wines, there is a Rodney Strong flight too.
Dan Berger remembers Davis Bynum as a wonderful, soft-spoken man who made excellent wine but who flew under the radar.
Next they taste a 2018 Russian River Pinot Noir from 2 vineyards, one is Jane’s Vineyard near the middle, then the other is Dutton Ranch, up in Green Valley. Steve agrees it is velvety and smooth and very drinkable. Dan Berger says it needs at least 2 or 3 more years, or to be decanted for an hour.
After that they taste a 2019 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir, from cool-climate Green Valley AVA. Dan says it has a great aftertaste that “goes on and on and on.” Greg thinks this would be a good one to age for 10 years and Dan agrees. “This is a structurally fabulous wine,” he says. Greg Morthole says you get good fruit and acidity from this vineyard, including potpourri and citrus.
Finally there is a Chardonnay, which is Steve’s favorite. This is the 2018 River West Chardonnay. The vineyard has gravelly and sandy soil and gives apple and pear and flint tones. Dan remembers a River West Chardonnay that Rodney Strong had made, with far lass oak than was fashionable at that time, the 90s. It was chablis-like, with the aromatic and aftertaste of Chablis but the mid-palette like a Burgundian style.
Will McIlroy from McIlroy Cellars is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Before we begin with Will McIlroy's wines, they taste a 2014 Sauvignon Blanc from Geyser Peak, which Dan has brought from his cellar. Dan says it's still all right, in good shape, still tastes like Sauvignon Blanc. Very drinkable, for a 7-year-old Sauvignon Blanc. Dan would never have cellared this one for so long but sometimes a bottle gets lost in the cellar.
Will McIlroy tells the story of how his family acquired some land in 1972 which was planted to prunes. He went to Cal Poly then to UC Davis, where he learned how to grow grapes and make wine, respectively. He worked at Davis Bynum with Gary Farrell for many years. In 1990 his family winery started making Chardonnay with his wife, and now they make an average of a little over 5000 cases per year. Everything in single-vineyard except for the Rosé and mainly it all comes from Russian River Valley.
First they taste the 2020 Russian River Valley Chardonnay from their family vineyards. It is all barrel fermented and undergoes malolactic fermentation. This is very true to the varietal, nice fruit flavors and a long finish. Dan says it has subtle richness and aromatics. There is a slight lime and lemon component. Dan Berger says that this wine would be at its peak in two or three more years.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Bottle Barn is their biggest retail presence in Sonoma County. They have plenty in stock. McIlroy Cellars also sells their wines online.
Next they taste their 2019 Reserve Chardonnay. It has "Aquarius Ranch" on the label, right on the bench of the Russian River. After about 7 months in the barrels they select their favorite barrels for this reserve bottling. This one sells for $40.
They also taste a 2019 Pinot Noir from the Monterey Arroyo Seco region. He only made 290 cases of this one. There were 5 tons harvested at night and shipped immediately to the winery. It is succulent, very little tannins, and smells like Pinot Noir is supposed to, with delicate cherry and plum. It has a tiny taste of oak, but not much. It has been open for about 4 hours and is starting to open up.
Will says that this year's harvest was a dream, the weather temperatures were perfect, warm by day and cold at night, which is perfect for the grapes. The Pinot Noir quantity was low and Chard normal, but overall a great vintage.
The McIlroy 2019 Watson Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. This has some richness to it, with the spice component and raspberry, cherry and blackberry. In about a year or two the red fruit will come out a bit more. The vineyard is 2/3s of the way up the Dry Creek Valley. The vines are all head-trained, the 100-year-old Italian method. That makes them hard to pick, because mechanical harvesters depend on the shape of the vines being different.
Will McIlroy from McIlroy Cellars is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Before we begin with Will McIlroy’s wines, they taste a 2014 Sauvignon Blanc from Geyser Peak, which Dan has brought from his cellar. Dan says it’s still all right, in good shape, still tastes like Sauvignon Blanc. Very drinkable, for a 7-year-old Sauvignon Blanc. Dan would never have cellared this one for so long but sometimes a bottle gets lost in the cellar.
Will McIlroy tells the story of how his family acquired some land in 1972 which was planted to prunes. He went to Cal Poly then to UC Davis, where he learned how to grow grapes and make wine, respectively. He worked at Davis Bynum with Gary Farrell for many years. In 1990 his family winery started making Chardonnay with his wife, and now they make an average of a little over 5000 cases per year. Everything in single-vineyard except for the Rosé and mainly it all comes from Russian River Valley.
First they taste the 2020 Russian River Valley Chardonnay from their family vineyards. It is all barrel fermented and undergoes malolactic fermentation. This is very true to the varietal, nice fruit flavors and a long finish. Dan says it has subtle richness and aromatics. There is a slight lime and lemon component. Dan Berger says that this wine would be at its peak in two or three more years.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Bottle Barn is their biggest retail presence in Sonoma County. They have plenty in stock. McIlroy Cellars also sells their wines online.
Next they taste their 2019 Reserve Chardonnay. It has “Aquarius Ranch” on the label, right on the bench of the Russian River. After about 7 months in the barrels they select their favorite barrels for this reserve bottling. This one sells for $40.
They also taste a 2019 Pinot Noir from the Monterey Arroyo Seco region. He only made 290 cases of this one. There were 5 tons harvested at night and shipped immediately to the winery. It is succulent, very little tannins, and smells like Pinot Noir is supposed to, with delicate cherry and plum. It has a tiny taste of oak, but not much. It has been open for about 4 hours and is starting to open up.
Will says that this year’s harvest was a dream, the weather temperatures were perfect, warm by day and cold at night, which is perfect for the grapes. The Pinot Noir quantity was low and Chard normal, but overall a great vintage.
The McIlroy 2019 Watson Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. This has some richness to it, with the spice component and raspberry, cherry and blackberry. In about a year or two the red fruit will come out a bit more. The vineyard is 2/3s of the way up the Dry Creek Valley. The vines are all head-trained, the 100-year-old Italian method. That makes them hard to pick, because mechanical harvesters depend on the shape of the vines being different.
Our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today didn’t make it to the studio, so, the podcast will be about two wines that Dan Berger has brought in, one young Rosé and another “cellar dweller” from his extensive personal wine cellar. And we’ll end with a phone call from Barry Herbst.
The harvest in California was over two weeks ago in Sonoma County but only ended today, Nov. 17, in Monterey County, where they just harvested their last grapes this morning. It is very cool in the Central Coast this year. The 2021 vintage will be rather different there, compared to Sonoma County. The Central Coast is huge, in terms of acreage, from Santa Barbara to Livermore.
The first tasting is a 2020 Rosé, from Kelby Russell, a winemaker in New York state. It is made from Cabernet Franc which Dan likes. This winery is located in the Finger Lakes region of New York state, which is a great place to visit if you’re a wine lover.
Dan’s other wine is a real “cellar dweller,” a 2004 Frog’s Leap Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon. The producer, John Williams, is committed to making balanced wines, so the alcohol is low, 13.6%. He likes it because it smells and tastes like Cabernet Sauvignon, just as it is supposed to. The taste matches the aroma. There are hints of pipe tobacco, black cherry and plum. “It’s got everything”
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Barry Herbst, the wine buyer at Bottle Barn, calls in on the phone to talk to Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke. Bottle Barn is our longtime sponsor and Barry Herbst joins us on the show regularly to talk about all the new wines showing up in their vast and sometimes astounding stock. The Beaujolais Nouveau is out starting tomorrow. The Harvest Fair winners are still on sale and Rosé is featured year-round now, so they always have a good selection of Rosé from France, California and sometimes elsewhere.
The Thursday prior to Thanksgiving is the Beaujolais Nouveau release date. The French wine regulators set this rule, and it is in the contracts with distributors and retailers. Dan thinks that Beaujolais Nouveau is frivolous wine, it’s too fresh to have much character. But people like the idea of “new wine” or “vin de l’année” and in France, the release date is a popular party event in homes, bars and restaurants.
Bottle Barn always has all the local producers who have anything at retail, including the major local brands such as Alexander Valley Vineyards, Pedroncelli and Balletto, wines from all the local AVAs, a deep selection of imported varietals not easy to find anywhere else, as well as a vast selection of beers, sake and spirits. Occasionally Bottle Barn will purchase an entire cellar from a collector and those selections are sometimes once-in-a-lifetime opportunities to find rare and older wines. Bottle Barn is open 10-6 seven days a week.
Our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today didn’t make it to the studio, so, the podcast will be about two wines that Dan Berger has brought in, one young Rosé and another "cellar dweller" from his extensive personal wine cellar. And we'll end with a phone call from Barry Herbst.
The harvest in California was over two weeks ago in Sonoma County but only ended today, Nov. 17, in Monterey County, where they just harvested their last grapes this morning. It is very cool in the Central Coast this year. The 2021 vintage will be rather different there, compared to Sonoma County. The Central Coast is huge, in terms of acreage, from Santa Barbara to Livermore.
The first tasting is a 2020 Rosé, from Kelby Russell, a winemaker in New York state. It is made from Cabernet Franc which Dan likes. This winery is located in the Finger Lakes region of New York state, which is a great place to visit if you're a wine lover.
Dan’s other wine is a real "cellar dweller," a 2004 Frog's Leap Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon. The producer, John Williams, is committed to making balanced wines, so the alcohol is low, 13.6%. He likes it because it smells and tastes like Cabernet Sauvignon, just as it is supposed to. The taste matches the aroma. There are hints of pipe tobacco, black cherry and plum. "It's got everything"
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Barry Herbst, the wine buyer at Bottle Barn, calls in on the phone to talk to Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Harry Duke. Bottle Barn is our longtime sponsor and Barry Herbst joins us on the show regularly to talk about all the new wines showing up in their vast and sometimes astounding stock. The Beaujolais Nouveau is out starting tomorrow. The Harvest Fair winners are still on sale and Rosé is featured year-round now, so they always have a good selection of Rosé from France, California and sometimes elsewhere.
The Thursday prior to Thanksgiving is the Beaujolais Nouveau release date. The French wine regulators set this rule, and it is in the contracts with distributors and retailers. Dan thinks that Beaujolais Nouveau is frivolous wine, it's too fresh to have much character. But people like the idea of "new wine" or "vin de l'année" and in France, the release date is a popular party event in homes, bars and restaurants.
Bottle Barn always has all the local producers who have anything at retail, including the major local brands such as Alexander Valley Vineyards, Pedroncelli and Balletto, wines from all the local AVAs, a deep selection of imported varietals not easy to find anywhere else, as well as a vast selection of beers, sake and spirits. Occasionally Bottle Barn will purchase an entire cellar from a collector and those selections are sometimes once-in-a-lifetime opportunities to find rare and older wines. Bottle Barn is open 10-6 seven days a week.
Rusty Eddy and Tim McDonald are back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. Harry Duke is also in the studio today. The last time they were on this show and podcast was this episode of November 1, 2017, which was all about cool climate wines. Rusty Eddy and Tim McDonald run Wine Spoken Here/Rogue Strategies, a public relations firm that specialized in the wine industry. Rusty and Tim will taste five wines with Steve, Harry and Dan, from wineries that they work with.
Rusty and Tim are partners in Wine and Spirits Spoken Here/Rogue Strategies. Both are wine industry PR veterans. Through their agency, they consult with clients about their marketing efforts and reputation building. They have been in business for 13 years. They have brought some wines from their clients in Russian River Valley, Santa Barbara, Washington and Napa Valley. Rusty is based in Redwood City and Tim is in Napa. Tim founded Wine Spoken Here and Rogue Strategies is the company that Rusty Eddy founded, also to do marketing and PR. Rusty grew up in Davis and attended UC Davis but did not major in wine. His brother Tom Eddy is a winemaker who produces great Cabernet at Tom Eddy Winery in Calistoga.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Dan Berger has brought in a cellar wine that is called The Lane, a Chardonnay from Adelaide Hills in Australia. He got it as a sample bottle 15 years ago and has been in the cellar ever since. Rusty sent it to him, and it is a 2005. It was imported by Rusty’s brother Tom. Adelaide Hills is a great location for whites, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The fact that it was in a 55-degree (F) cellar helped it preserve its color, and the screw cap also helped. They all agree a cork would have killed it. Dan Berger says it’s a good idea to visit the Adelaide Hills now, before it gets filled with new homes. There are also great restaurants in the wineries. Laeticia Sparkling Wine First they pour a sparkling wine from Laeticia Vineyard and Winery. It is made in Santa Barbara. Dan Berger says the flavors in the sparkling wines from Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo are particularly Californian, strawberry, raspberry, pink without being dark salmon color. It’s 35% Pinot, 65% Chardonnay. It sells for $25 and matches the quality of more expensive bottles. The winery is in the Arroyo Grande Valley which is located south of San Luis Obispo in central California. Harry Duke says that it is very good and much richer than a normal champagne. Qupé 2019 Chardonnay Qupé Winery is located in the Central Coast of California near Santa Barbara and its winemaker, Bob Lindquist, was on CWC in this episode from August 2, 2017. The word Qupé means "poppy" in the Chumash language. Bottle Barn has it. Be Human 2020 Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon Next they taste a 2020 Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon from a brand called Be Human Wines. This comes from the Horse Heaven Hills, in Columbia Valley. Dan Berger says this is a great area for wine, with terrible soils, which is great for Cabernet. It is priced at $16-$18. This is their first vintage, it’s a new winery. It sold a lot at Whole Foods in the northwest. Raeburn 2020 Russian River Pinot Noir They also taste a 2020 Russian River Pinot Noir from Raeburn Winery. It is their 4th vintage, a freshly released 2020. The flavors are gorgeous, it’s a classic example of Russian River Pinot Noir. It’s elegant with beautiful raspberry fruit, priced at $24.99.
Dan Berger says that Bottle Barn has great Cru Beaujolais that are a great value, compared to Beaujolais Nouveau, which can be disappointing (especially far away from France, because the best product never leaves the country –Ed.). 2019 Experience Napa Valley Cabernet Some of these wines are holiday meal suggestions, so they may go well with the traditional Thanksgiving Day menu, especially with turkey. But for those who prefer other fare, Rusty and Tim have brought in a 2019 Experience Napa Valley Caber...
Rusty Eddy and Tim McDonald are back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. Harry Duke is also in the studio today. The last time they were on this show and podcast was this episode of November 1, 2017, which was all about cool climate wines. Rusty Eddy and Tim McDonald run Wine Spoken Here/Rogue Strategies, a public relations firm that specialized in the wine industry. Rusty and Tim will taste five wines with Steve, Harry and Dan, from wineries that they work with.
Rusty and Tim are partners in Wine and Spirits Spoken Here/Rogue Strategies. Both are wine industry PR veterans. Through their agency, they consult with clients about their marketing efforts and reputation building. They have been in business for 13 years. They have brought some wines from their clients in Russian River Valley, Santa Barbara, Washington and Napa Valley. Rusty is based in Redwood City and Tim is in Napa. Tim founded Wine Spoken Here and Rogue Strategies is the company that Rusty Eddy founded, also to do marketing and PR. Rusty grew up in Davis and attended UC Davis but did not major in wine. His brother Tom Eddy is a winemaker who produces great Cabernet at Tom Eddy Winery in Calistoga.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Dan Berger has brought in a cellar wine that is called The Lane, a Chardonnay from Adelaide Hills in Australia. He got it as a sample bottle 15 years ago and has been in the cellar ever since. Rusty sent it to him, and it is a 2005. It was imported by Rusty’s brother Tom. Adelaide Hills is a great location for whites, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The fact that it was in a 55-degree (F) cellar helped it preserve its color, and the screw cap also helped. They all agree a cork would have killed it. Dan Berger says it’s a good idea to visit the Adelaide Hills now, before it gets filled with new homes. There are also great restaurants in the wineries.
Laeticia Sparkling Wine First they pour a sparkling wine from Laeticia Vineyard and Winery. It is made in Santa Barbara. Dan Berger says the flavors in the sparkling wines from Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo are particularly Californian, strawberry, raspberry, pink without being dark salmon color. It’s 35% Pinot, 65% Chardonnay. It sells for $25 and matches the quality of more expensive bottles. The winery is in the Arroyo Grande Valley which is located south of San Luis Obispo in central California. Harry Duke says that it is very good and much richer than a normal champagne.
Qupé 2019 Chardonnay Qupé Winery is located in the Central Coast of California near Santa Barbara and its winemaker, Bob Lindquist, was on CWC in this episode from August 2, 2017. The word Qupé means “poppy” in the Chumash language. Bottle Barn has it.
Be Human 2020 Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon Next they taste a 2020 Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon from a brand called Be Human Wines. This comes from the Horse Heaven Hills, in Columbia Valley. Dan Berger says this is a great area for wine, with terrible soils, which is great for Cabernet. It is priced at $16-$18. This is their first vintage, it’s a new winery. It sold a lot at Whole Foods in the northwest.
Raeburn 2020 Russian River Pinot Noir They also taste a 2020 Russian River Pinot Noir from Raeburn Winery. It is their 4th vintage, a freshly released 2020. The flavors are gorgeous, it’s a classic example of Russian River Pinot Noir. It’s elegant with beautiful raspberry fruit, priced at $24.99.
Dan Berger says that Bottle Barn has great Cru Beaujolais that are a great value, compared to Beaujolais Nouveau, which can be disappointing (especially far away from France, because the best product never leaves the country –Ed.).
2019 Experience Napa Valley Cabernet Some of these wines are holiday meal suggestions, so they may go well with the traditional Thanksgiving Day menu, especially with turkey. But for those who prefer other fare, Rusty and Tim have brought in a 2019 Experience Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. It is the third vintage of this. So in case a standing rib roast is on the menu, or anything closer to that than to turkey, this would go very well with it. Dan Berger points out, “The more sage you use in your turkey, the more the Cabernet works with it.” It would not work with a ham, but a Pinot would.
Barry Nico is the winemaker on this. The label is owned by a couple who met on a bus tour of New Zealand while they were interning during harvest time. The tour company was called Experience New Zealand, so they kept the name for their wine. This 2019 is really tight still, needs time in the bottle, says Dan Berger, or a couple of hours in the decanter. 🍷
Catherine Blagden
Catherine Blagden, the owner of Blagden Wines. is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.
As a prelude to the show, Dan Berger has brought another cellar dweller this week. This is from Nichol and Nichol in the Napa Valley. For some reason they got some Russian River Valley grapes. It’s a 2005 Syrah, it’s really rustic and has some bottle age on it. It is inky, very dark in color. It has some tannins and the fruit is very good.
Catherine Blagden grew up on the east coast, and grew up in a family where they would do wine tastings while she was still a teen One time, she knew a wine was slightly corked, and she told the server and the Sommelier, so after that she got the job of choosing the wines for her family. She thought she would become a doctor, and was pursuing a career in health and wellness. She was hanging out in San Francisco with foodie friends who suggested she check the Davis program. Before starting it, she did a harvest in Cape Town, South Africa, then got her MS in Enology at Davis and met Greg La Follette, who was her mentor. She worked with him for several years on several small Pinot Noir and Chardonnay makers.
Blagden Wines begin in 2006. Her strategy is to hold wine back, to be under the radar, and she doesn’t push sales too much. She has now moved to Santa Barbara and will be looking to start a new chapter for Blagden Wines there.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Dan says that Catherine’s wines have good acidity so they can’t be drunk right away, they need time to develop in the bottle. She has selected grapes from cooler climates where acidity is the feature. The Sangiacomo vineyard has incredible longevity. This is from the Petaluma Gap. This wine is a reflection of that new AVA. The Roberts Road property will be emblazoned in history in a few years
Steve asks about tannin versus acidity. Tannin is a physical astringincy that comes from tannins in seeds and skins. Dan explains, you have to be careful, if you have high alcohol, you have to get your harvest dates correctly and capture the right acidity. If you have too much tannin and not enough acidity, the wine is out of balance. Catherine met the Sangiacomo family when he was working with Greg La Follette.
Dan says personality of a wine counts more than points. He says buy it, cellar it and it will be great. Late in the show we learn that Laura Ness, a wine columnist from Los Gatos area, sent Dan Berger an email to introduce Catherine to Dan.
Catherine Blagden
Catherine Blagden, the owner of Blagden Wines. is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.
As a prelude to the show, Dan Berger has brought another cellar dweller this week. This is from Nichol and Nichol in the Napa Valley. For some reason they got some Russian River Valley grapes. It’s a 2005 Syrah, it’s really rustic and has some bottle age on it. It is inky, very dark in color. It has some tannins and the fruit is very good.
Catherine Blagden grew up on the east coast, and grew up in a family where they would do wine tastings while she was still a teen One time, she knew a wine was slightly corked, and she told the server and the Sommelier, so after that she got the job of choosing the wines for her family. She thought she would become a doctor, and was pursuing a career in health and wellness. She was hanging out in San Francisco with foodie friends who suggested she check the Davis program. Before starting it, she did a harvest in Cape Town, South Africa, then got her MS in Enology at Davis and met Greg La Follette, who was her mentor. She worked with him for several years on several small Pinot Noir and Chardonnay makers.
Blagden Wines begin in 2006. Her strategy is to hold wine back, to be under the radar, and she doesn’t push sales too much. She has now moved to Santa Barbara and will be looking to start a new chapter for Blagden Wines there.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Dan says that Catherine's wines have good acidity so they can’t be drunk right away, they need time to develop in the bottle. She has selected grapes from cooler climates where acidity is the feature. The Sangiacomo vineyard has incredible longevity. This is from the Petaluma Gap. This wine is a reflection of that new AVA. The Roberts Road property will be emblazoned in history in a few years
Steve asks about tannin versus acidity. Tannin is a physical astringincy that comes from tannins in seeds and skins. Dan explains, you have to be careful, if you have high alcohol, you have to get your harvest dates correctly and capture the right acidity. If you have too much tannin and not enough acidity, the wine is out of balance. Catherine met the Sangiacomo family when he was working with Greg La Follette.
Dan says personality of a wine counts more than points. He says buy it, cellar it and it will be great. Late in the show we learn that Laura Ness, a wine columnist from Los Gatos area, sent Dan Berger an email to introduce Catherine to Dan.
Remi Cohen and Tom Simoneau.
Remi Cohen, CEO of Domaine Carneros, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Tom Simoneau is also in the studio today and the subject is the sparkling wines of Domaine Carneros.
But first, Dan Berger has opened a 12-year-old 2009 Pinot Noir from his extensive personal cellar. Morelli Vineyards provided the grapes for this wine made by a winery called Lost Canyon. Dan looked for them online but didn’t find much, they may not still be active. Tom Simoneau has not heard of them. Dan Berger notes that Dan Goldfield has also used Morelli Vineyards for his prestigious Dutton-Goldfield label.
Now they begin tasting the Domaine Carneros sparkling wines beginning with the Brut, which is the first wine they ever made in 1987 when they launched. Domaine Carneros is owned by the Taittinger family, who are famous French Champagne producers. They wanted to have a sparkling wine company in California so they started one in the 1980s. When Claude Taittinger came to visit Napa Valley and Carneros in particular, he expressed that desire. Then they hired Eileen Crane to create the winery and make the wine. Eileen retired last year but still comes in to help with the blending. Eileen Crane was on California Wine Country on this episode from March 29, 2017 and she told the whole story of her very interesting career.
Remi Cohen has brought these bottles today for tasting and discussion:
- Domaine Carneros by Taittinger 2017 Brut
- Domaine Carneros Cuvée de la Pompadour sparkling Brut Rosé
- Le Rêve Domaine Carneros by Taittinger 2014
- Domaine Carneros Estate Pinot Noir 2018
Carneros means Rams in Spanish.
They open the Sparkling Rosé but it turns out to be slightly corked. This happens to about 1% of wines, a mould grows on the cork and can spoil the taste of the wine. (Dan thinks most corked wines in the US are probably not identified as such, people have to be used to telling the flavor of it. People who don’t know, may conclude the don’t like the wine but don’t know why.)
Next they taste Le Rêve, which means The Dream. This is aged 6 years before they release it, this is a 2014 they are tasting. The story behind this wine is that Claude Taittinger asked Eileen Crane to make a top quality sparkling wine only from estate-grown Chardonnay grapes. The owner was so impressed he had a special bottle made for Le Rêve, emblazoned with two rams’ heads. The word Carneros means Rams, in Spanish. first release was 1992. This is as dry as the other, but is different from the Brut. Dan points out that you’re getting your richness from the Pinot Noir that has intentionally made for the color. They do Le Rêve and Lobster dinners at the winery. Dan Berger would serve grilled scallops with this.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Bottle Barn is still featuring Harvest Festival winners, including all four of Tom Simoneau’s gold medal winners. They are also selling a lot of sparkling wines right now. They also have acquired some important collections and there are some unique bottles in those lots.
Dan points out that the blend process is meticulous and very important. Remi is glad that Eileen Crane still comes for blending. Only a small amount of it has been given ML. It is how they choose the best Chardonnay to turn into sparkling wine with the tirage which is putting sugar and yeast in and let it ferment in the bottle. Dan points out how making sparkling wine is “a game of patience” as Remi describes it, since it takes years to plant the right vineyard, and the sparkling winemaking process takes so long. They harvest at 18 to 20 Brix, which is really tart.
At the Domaine Carneros chateau, there are lots of options for visits, with food pairings of all kinds.
Finally, they taste a Pinot Noir, made by T.J. Evans, who specializes in Pinot Noir for DC. The Estate Pinot Noir is from 6 different estates that they farm in Carneros. This has all the Carneros Pinot Noir traits like fruit and berries but also has the spice and earthiness that Pinot Noir lovers love. “It’s got the richness as well as the Pinot Noir distinctiveness in one quick sniff,” says Dan. Dan points out that somebody had the right decision to pick early because 2018 was relatively cool and this needed to be picked when it was. Tom Simoneau reminds us that the Carneros producers were the ones who led the way with Pinot Noir in northern California, before Russian River Valley, Petaluma Gap or the others.
Remi Cohen and Tom Simoneau.
Remi Cohen, CEO of Domaine Carneros, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Tom Simoneau is also in the studio today and the subject is the sparkling wines of Domaine Carneros.
But first, Dan Berger has opened a 12-year-old 2009 Pinot Noir from his extensive personal cellar. Morelli Vineyards provided the grapes for this wine made by a winery called Lost Canyon. Dan looked for them online but didn’t find much, they may not still be active. Tom Simoneau has not heard of them. Dan Berger notes that Dan Goldfield has also used Morelli Vineyards for his prestigious Dutton-Goldfield label.
Now they begin tasting the Domaine Carneros sparkling wines beginning with the Brut, which is the first wine they ever made in 1987 when they launched. Domaine Carneros is owned by the Taittinger family, who are famous French Champagne producers. They wanted to have a sparkling wine company in California so they started one in the 1980s. When Claude Taittinger came to visit Napa Valley and Carneros in particular, he expressed that desire. Then they hired Eileen Crane to create the winery and make the wine. Eileen retired last year but still comes in to help with the blending. Eileen Crane was on California Wine Country on this episode from March 29, 2017 and she told the whole story of her very interesting career.
Remi Cohen has brought these bottles today for tasting and discussion:
Domaine Carneros by Taittinger 2017 Brut Domaine Carneros Cuvée de la Pompadour sparkling Brut Rosé Le Rêve Domaine Carneros by Taittinger 2014 Domaine Carneros Estate Pinot Noir 2018
Carneros means Rams in Spanish.
They open the Sparkling Rosé but it turns out to be slightly corked. This happens to about 1% of wines, a mould grows on the cork and can spoil the taste of the wine. (Dan thinks most corked wines in the US are probably not identified as such, people have to be used to telling the flavor of it. People who don’t know, may conclude the don’t like the wine but don’t know why.)
Next they taste Le Rêve, which means The Dream. This is aged 6 years before they release it, this is a 2014 they are tasting. The story behind this wine is that Claude Taittinger asked Eileen Crane to make a top quality sparkling wine only from estate-grown Chardonnay grapes. The owner was so impressed he had a special bottle made for Le Rêve, emblazoned with two rams’ heads. The word Carneros means Rams, in Spanish. first release was 1992. This is as dry as the other, but is different from the Brut. Dan points out that you’re getting your richness from the Pinot Noir that has intentionally made for the color. They do Le Rêve and Lobster dinners at the winery. Dan Berger would serve grilled scallops with this.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Bottle Barn is still featuring Harvest Festival winners, including all four of Tom Simoneau’s gold medal winners. They are also selling a lot of sparkling wines right now. They also have acquired some important collections and there are some unique bottles in those lots.
Dan points out that the blend process is meticulous and very important. Remi is glad that Eileen Crane still comes for blending. Only a small amount of it has been given ML. It is how they choose the best Chardonnay to turn into sparkling wine with the tirage which is putting sugar and yeast in and let it ferment in the bottle. Dan points out how making sparkling wine is “a game of patience” as Remi describes it, since it takes years to plant the right vineyard, and the sparkling winemaking process takes so long. They harvest at 18 to 20 Brix, which is really tart.
At the Domaine Carneros chateau, there are lots of options for visits, with food pairings of all kinds.
Finally, they taste a Pinot Noir, made by T.J. Evans, who specializes in Pinot Noir for DC. The Estate Pinot Noir is from 6 different estates that they farm in Carneros.
Bob Cabral
Bob Cabral is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon. Harry Duke and Barry Herbst from bottle barn are also in the studio. Bob Cabral has been on California Wine Country twice before, on this episode from June 21, 2017 and again on this other episode from September 4, 2019.
Before we start with Bob Cabral's wines, Dan Berger has brought a bottle from his cellar. It’s a 12 year old Columbia Valley Riesling. Seven Hills is a small producer. This is only a little sweet, and the acidity held it together. Without the sugar it might be too bitter, but as it is, you can still taste the fruit. The acidity and vibrancy is what makes an older Riesling interesting. Dan Berger points out that Riesling is one of the only white wines that will age. Rieslings go well with Thai food, which sometimes uses sugar to temper the spices.
Bob Cabral’s name is synonymous with great pinot noir. He spent several years at Williams Selyem. He grew up in Escalon outside Modesto where his father grew grapes. He was strong in chemistry and biology. He thought of vet school but went to study viticulture at Fresno State and started working in 1980. This was his 42nd harvest in California and 35th in Sonoma County.
Now Bob Cabral is working at Three Sticks. After two decades at Williams Selyem, he left on good terms, wanting to do something else. They have access to some of the best fruit in Sonoma County. Ryan Pritchard is their winemaker, who was on this show last week. Bob is working in the vineyards, making sure they are healthy and that he is getting a good crop. Then in the winemaking process he wants to keep things simple. But today we will taste Bob Cabral wines, of his own production.
2017 Cuvée Wildflower, a Riesling which comes from two vineyards, one just outside of Occidental and another near Petaluma. It is fermented in a large concrete amphora. He uses no commercial yeast. He pays the growers extra to use as many sustainable practices as possible without losing the crop. This wine is dry, there is no residual sugar in it. Dan says this is a baby and needs a lot more time. Grapefruit, kiwi and kumquat flavors make it like a red wine.
Bob Cabral wines are available at the website and in a few fine local restaurants, such as Underwood in Graton. Dan Berger says that Bob Cabral’s wines are distinctive. He only makes about 140 or 150 cases of the Riesling. Bob describes how he dedicates his wine company’s profits to local charities and he also works with many other local charities like the Boys and Girls Club.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
For all the wine he makes, Bob Cabral does not own any vineyards. It’s because he focussed on winemaking and taking care of other people’s vineyards. Such as, he planted the first three estate vineyards for Williams Selyem. He is still active in the winery but after all these years he knows it’s a young man’s game.
The 2016 Chardonnay is next, there were only 4 cases of it. Dan says it has two things going on, one is the aromatics, like a high-end French Burgundy, but the acid level reminds you of Chablis. The name of the wine is Cuvée Anne Rose, the names of his wife and daughter. It will be released probably in March or April of 2022. Dan Berger says the acid in this wine needs a lot of years in the cellar. Most people are already selling their 2020 Chardonnays, and this 2017 hasn’t even been released yet. Dan Berger would keep a Chardonnay for at least 7 years. Bob Cabral had a 60 year old wine that was great, because it had enough acid in the structure.
Bob Cabral Wines dot com includes Bob’s Cellar Playlist. You can listen to the Spotify playlist while you peruse the site. On the back of every label there is a coded song, written backwards. This is similar to what is in Clark Smith’s new book about wine and music.
The last wine is the Pinot Noir, the 2017 Troubador Pinot Noir,
Bob Cabral
Bob Cabral is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon. Harry Duke and Barry Herbst from bottle barn are also in the studio. Bob Cabral has been on California Wine Country twice before, on this episode from June 21, 2017 and again on this other episode from September 4, 2019.
Before we start with Bob Cabral’s wines, Dan Berger has brought a bottle from his cellar. It’s a 12 year old Columbia Valley Riesling. Seven Hills is a small producer. This is only a little sweet, and the acidity held it together. Without the sugar it might be too bitter, but as it is, you can still taste the fruit. The acidity and vibrancy is what makes an older Riesling interesting. Dan Berger points out that Riesling is one of the only white wines that will age. Rieslings go well with Thai food, which sometimes uses sugar to temper the spices.
Bob Cabral’s name is synonymous with great pinot noir. He spent several years at Williams Selyem. He grew up in Escalon outside Modesto where his father grew grapes. He was strong in chemistry and biology. He thought of vet school but went to study viticulture at Fresno State and started working in 1980. This was his 42nd harvest in California and 35th in Sonoma County.
Now Bob Cabral is working at Three Sticks. After two decades at Williams Selyem, he left on good terms, wanting to do something else. They have access to some of the best fruit in Sonoma County. Ryan Pritchard is their winemaker, who was on this show last week. Bob is working in the vineyards, making sure they are healthy and that he is getting a good crop. Then in the winemaking process he wants to keep things simple. But today we will taste Bob Cabral wines, of his own production.
2017 Cuvée Wildflower, a Riesling which comes from two vineyards, one just outside of Occidental and another near Petaluma. It is fermented in a large concrete amphora. He uses no commercial yeast. He pays the growers extra to use as many sustainable practices as possible without losing the crop. This wine is dry, there is no residual sugar in it. Dan says this is a baby and needs a lot more time. Grapefruit, kiwi and kumquat flavors make it like a red wine.
Bob Cabral wines are available at the website and in a few fine local restaurants, such as Underwood in Graton. Dan Berger says that Bob Cabral’s wines are distinctive. He only makes about 140 or 150 cases of the Riesling. Bob describes how he dedicates his wine company’s profits to local charities and he also works with many other local charities like the Boys and Girls Club.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
For all the wine he makes, Bob Cabral does not own any vineyards. It’s because he focussed on winemaking and taking care of other people’s vineyards. Such as, he planted the first three estate vineyards for Williams Selyem. He is still active in the winery but after all these years he knows it’s a young man’s game.
The 2016 Chardonnay is next, there were only 4 cases of it. Dan says it has two things going on, one is the aromatics, like a high-end French Burgundy, but the acid level reminds you of Chablis. The name of the wine is Cuvée Anne Rose, the names of his wife and daughter. It will be released probably in March or April of 2022. Dan Berger says the acid in this wine needs a lot of years in the cellar. Most people are already selling their 2020 Chardonnays, and this 2017 hasn’t even been released yet. Dan Berger would keep a Chardonnay for at least 7 years. Bob Cabral had a 60 year old wine that was great, because it had enough acid in the structure.
Bob Cabral Wines dot com includes Bob’s Cellar Playlist. You can listen to the Spotify playlist while you peruse the site. On the back of every label there is a coded song, written backwards. This is similar to what is in Clark Smith’s new book about wine and music.
The last wine is the Pinot Noir, the 2017 Troubador Pinot Noir, comes from four vineyards in the Russian River Valley, all in the area with the rich Goldridge soil, which he thinks adds a texture and mouth feel that nowhere else can deliver. Whole cluster, natural yeast, 60-70% new oak. He goes to France to harvest the trees, which are finished in Benicia, California. He has 3 different toast levels, depending on the wine he’s making.
Three Sticks Wines
Ryan Pritchard, winemaker at Three Sticks Wines and Mike Barber of Barber Cellars are our two guests on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn and Harry Duke are also in the studio.
First, a cellar dweller from Dan Berger’s extensive personal cellar. It’s a 2010 Riesling from Arroyo Seco. It is very sweet but probably about three years past its prime. Ryan Pritchard’s take is that the nose is better than the palette. Dan says the screw cap helped it from being completely gone. It would have been better after only 4-5 years in the cellar.
Ryan Pritchard has a Three Sticks Chardonnay that they will taste. Steve notices the nose and Dan Berger says, “the secret to these wines is cool climate.”
Ryan Pritchard grew up in northern California and his first memories of wine are of being a student at Cornell University where they tasted wines in hospitality studies. He fell in love with wine, then worked in tech but his love was always wine. He spent all his time traveling and studying wine. He worked for Bob Cabral at Williams Selyem, where he learned a lot.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Three Sticks started when Bill Price bought the Durell Vineyard, which had been providing grapes since the ’70s for some great wines. In 2002 he decided to make some wine himself, starting with one, two or three barrels. Over the years they continue to find great fruit in the area and do different bottlings. Their goal is to develop and farm from some of the best vineyards in Sonoma County. They have vineyards in all the different areas in Sonoma County, so they can do some single vineyard wines and some blends. Notable among them is Gap’s Crown vineyard in Petaluma Gap, which has been called the crown jewel of cold climate wine growing. Bill Price had the good sense to hire Bob Cabral, who did a brilliant job of establishing a style that Ryan is continuing to produce. Three Sticks has a tasting room right off the square in downtown Sonoma in an original 1842 adobe building. They do sit-down tastings and reservations are suggested at least on weekends.
Barber Cellars
Our second guest today is Mike Barber from Barber Cellars.
They have been making wine for fifteen years. They didn’t start with a lot of money. Barber Cellars tasting room is in the Hotel Petaluma, a 100-year-old building recently renovated. Reservations are recommended but not required. They highlight local cheese makers and are super casual. Inspired by the book Big Macs and Burgundies, they offer a tasting menu of popular foods that go well with nice wines. It is a very enjoyable space, open Thursday through Sunday 1-7 PM.
Today’s selections of Petaluma Gap wines are intended to show the qualities of this new AVA in southern Sonoma County. The fruit comes from Gap’s Crown vineyard and it delivers consistent Pinot Noir character. The Petaluma Gap, where the fog rolls in early in the afternoon, and the wind, toughening the skins making the great tannin profile. The fog tempers the heat, even in hot year. It can 10 10-15 degrees cooler at Gap’s Crown on a hot day.
Dan Berger says that Petaluma Gap is one of the finest AVAs in America for Pinot Noir. It has only been approved for three years, but the difference between Russian River Valley and Petaluma Gap, if you want to compare them, you’re getting the equivalent of two different Burgundian styles.
Barry Herbst notes that there are good Syrahs coming from Petaluma Gap. People come into Bottle Barn asking for Petaluma Gap. Every single crop that comes from the 85-acre Gap’s Crown vineyard has been excellent.
Harvest this year has been difficult. They brought their Pinot Noir in about 3 weeks ago. Yield was light. There are some vineyards that got no crop at all, due to the drought. Even though this year’s yields are light, the quality is perfect by every measure. They saw a combination of small berries, which means intense flavors, and the acidity and sugar levels were maintained by cold nights.
Finally they taste a Pinot Noir, there are 2 barrels of wine from this half-acre site.
Three Sticks Wines
Ryan Pritchard, winemaker at Three Sticks Wines and Mike Barber of Barber Cellars are our two guests on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn and Harry Duke are also in the studio.
First, a cellar dweller from Dan Berger’s extensive personal cellar. It’s a 2010 Riesling from Arroyo Seco. It is very sweet but probably about three years past its prime. Ryan Pritchard’s take is that the nose is better than the palette. Dan says the screw cap helped it from being completely gone. It would have been better after only 4-5 years in the cellar.
Ryan Pritchard has a Three Sticks Chardonnay that they will taste. Steve notices the nose and Dan Berger says, “the secret to these wines is cool climate.”
Ryan Pritchard grew up in northern California and his first memories of wine are of being a student at Cornell University where they tasted wines in hospitality studies. He fell in love with wine, then worked in tech but his love was always wine. He spent all his time traveling and studying wine. He worked for Bob Cabral at Williams Selyem, where he learned a lot.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online. Three Sticks started when Bill Price bought the Durell Vineyard, which had been providing grapes since the '70s for some great wines. In 2002 he decided to make some wine himself, starting with one, two or three barrels. Over the years they continue to find great fruit in the area and do different bottlings. Their goal is to develop and farm from some of the best vineyards in Sonoma County. They have vineyards in all the different areas in Sonoma County, so they can do some single vineyard wines and some blends. Notable among them is Gap’s Crown vineyard in Petaluma Gap, which has been called the crown jewel of cold climate wine growing. Bill Price had the good sense to hire Bob Cabral, who did a brilliant job of establishing a style that Ryan is continuing to produce. Three Sticks has a tasting room right off the square in downtown Sonoma in an original 1842 adobe building. They do sit-down tastings and reservations are suggested at least on weekends.
Barber Cellars
Our second guest today is Mike Barber from Barber Cellars.
They have been making wine for fifteen years. They didn’t start with a lot of money. Barber Cellars tasting room is in the Hotel Petaluma, a 100-year-old building recently renovated. Reservations are recommended but not required. They highlight local cheese makers and are super casual. Inspired by the book Big Macs and Burgundies, they offer a tasting menu of popular foods that go well with nice wines. It is a very enjoyable space, open Thursday through Sunday 1-7 PM.
Today’s selections of Petaluma Gap wines are intended to show the qualities of this new AVA in southern Sonoma County. The fruit comes from Gap's Crown vineyard and it delivers consistent Pinot Noir character. The Petaluma Gap, where the fog rolls in early in the afternoon, and the wind, toughening the skins making the great tannin profile. The fog tempers the heat, even in hot year. It can 10 10-15 degrees cooler at Gap's Crown on a hot day.
Dan Berger says that Petaluma Gap is one of the finest AVAs in America for Pinot Noir. It has only been approved for three years, but the difference between Russian River Valley and Petaluma Gap, if you want to compare them, you're getting the equivalent of two different Burgundian styles.
Barry Herbst notes that there are good Syrahs coming from Petaluma Gap. People come into Bottle Barn asking for Petaluma Gap. Every single crop that comes from the 85-acre Gap's Crown vineyard has been excellent.
Harvest this year has been difficult. They brought their Pinot Noir in about 3 weeks ago. Yield was light. There are some vineyards that got no crop at all, due to the drought. Even though this year's yields are light, the quality is perfect by every measure. They saw a combination of small berries,
Jeff Mangahas
Jeff Mangahas, winemaker at Williams Selyem Wines, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Harry Duke is sitting in or Steve Jaxon today.
We begin with a wine that Dan Berger has brought from his extensive personal cellar. He calls it "a baby," it is a 2010 Riesling from Robert Weil from the Rheingau. As they taste the 2010 Riesling from Robert Weil in the Rheingau, region in Germany (located east of Frankfurt). It is 11 or 12 years old now, yet it is still in transition. It will be even better in six or seven years. The Rheingau is a little warmer than the rest of the country. The hills are steep, the bedrock is slate and there isn’t much topsoil. Dan Berger suggests putting it in a black glass, which changes your perception of it. A good Riesling can be considered a red wine without color.
Jeff Mangahas summarized the story of Burt Williams and Ed Selyem who were making garage wine in the ‘70s and ‘81 was their first commercial release. Pinot Noir mostly, a little Chardonnay and a little Zinfandel, mostly from unique sites with terroir personality. They focus on small vineyards, unique sites, wines with personality. They suddenly won an award for the #1 Pinot Noir in the nation and they were off to the races, with great success. John Dyson bought the property from Bert and Ed in 1989. The story is on their website. https://www.williamsselyem.com/our-history/
They have a small production that is sold direct to consumer. You have to be on their mailing list to get their wines. There are only 500-600 cases of this Rochioli vineyard Pinot Noir made every year.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
They just finished harvest of Zinfandel this year. The weather was perfect this year and they could pick under ideal conditions. They starated around Aug. 12. Usually they are one of the first in Russian River Valley to pick. They have such diversity in their vineyard sites, and Jeff describes monitoring the sugars and ripeness and phenolic levels for each vineyard.
This year’s quality is very good although the crop is a bit smaller than usual.
Jeff has brought a 2021 to compare to the 2019 Rochioli Pinot Noir that he brought. It is also a raw, young wine, but showcases the intensity of the year.
Williams Selyem was once called Hacienda del Rio, which Dan Berger says is a pretty fancy name for it considering that it was a garage. Bert and Ed were working at the SF Chronicle when they came to start making wine. They had an innovative way of making Pinot Noir. These wines were lighter in weight and lighter in style but the flavors were “outrageously interesting.” They managed to capture the personality of the different vineyards. Ed Selyem was the wine buyer at the store where Dan Berger would buy their wine.
Ed Selyem was the wine buyer at Speer’s Market in Forestville, so that was the only place to find it, so Dan used to get it there.
Dan Berger tells how Williams Selyem revolutionlzed Russian River Valley as a Pinot Noir region. They did it withoug adding weight or depth to the wines. That is what set Burgundy wines apart, what gave them personality, and these wines are made that way.
Jeff Mangahas tells how winemaking is a second career. He had an established career as a biomedical research scientist, with a Biology degree from University of Washington. He even worked at Princeton University as a reasarch scientist for two years. But he liked wine and knew about Washington wines, even back then. He and his wife took wine tours in Europe and loved it. He went for an MS in Enology at UC Davis. His first wine making job was at Dutton-Goldfield, which was a great education. He is still friends with Dan Goldfield. At Hartford Court in Forestville in 2006 he got his first winemaking job. In 2011 he started at Williams Selyem. He worked for winemaker Bob Cabral there. “It is a dream job.” Dan Berger says that Jeff “has checked all the bo...
Jeff Mangahas
Jeff Mangahas, winemaker at Williams Selyem Wines, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Harry Duke is sitting in or Steve Jaxon today.
We begin with a wine that Dan Berger has brought from his extensive personal cellar. He calls it “a baby,” it is a 2010 Riesling from Robert Weil from the Rheingau. As they taste the 2010 Riesling from Robert Weil in the Rheingau, region in Germany (located east of Frankfurt). It is 11 or 12 years old now, yet it is still in transition. It will be even better in six or seven years. The Rheingau is a little warmer than the rest of the country. The hills are steep, the bedrock is slate and there isn’t much topsoil. Dan Berger suggests putting it in a black glass, which changes your perception of it. A good Riesling can be considered a red wine without color.
Jeff Mangahas summarized the story of Burt Williams and Ed Selyem who were making garage wine in the ‘70s and ‘81 was their first commercial release. Pinot Noir mostly, a little Chardonnay and a little Zinfandel, mostly from unique sites with terroir personality. They focus on small vineyards, unique sites, wines with personality. They suddenly won an award for the #1 Pinot Noir in the nation and they were off to the races, with great success. John Dyson bought the property from Bert and Ed in 1989. The story is on their website. https://www.williamsselyem.com/our-history/
They have a small production that is sold direct to consumer. You have to be on their mailing list to get their wines. There are only 500-600 cases of this Rochioli vineyard Pinot Noir made every year.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
They just finished harvest of Zinfandel this year. The weather was perfect this year and they could pick under ideal conditions. They starated around Aug. 12. Usually they are one of the first in Russian River Valley to pick. They have such diversity in their vineyard sites, and Jeff describes monitoring the sugars and ripeness and phenolic levels for each vineyard.
This year’s quality is very good although the crop is a bit smaller than usual.
Jeff has brought a 2021 to compare to the 2019 Rochioli Pinot Noir that he brought. It is also a raw, young wine, but showcases the intensity of the year.
Williams Selyem was once called Hacienda del Rio, which Dan Berger says is a pretty fancy name for it considering that it was a garage. Bert and Ed were working at the SF Chronicle when they came to start making wine. They had an innovative way of making Pinot Noir. These wines were lighter in weight and lighter in style but the flavors were “outrageously interesting.” They managed to capture the personality of the different vineyards. Ed Selyem was the wine buyer at the store where Dan Berger would buy their wine.
Ed Selyem was the wine buyer at Speer’s Market in Forestville, so that was the only place to find it, so Dan used to get it there.
Dan Berger tells how Williams Selyem revolutionlzed Russian River Valley as a Pinot Noir region. They did it withoug adding weight or depth to the wines. That is what set Burgundy wines apart, what gave them personality, and these wines are made that way.
Jeff Mangahas tells how winemaking is a second career. He had an established career as a biomedical research scientist, with a Biology degree from University of Washington. He even worked at Princeton University as a reasarch scientist for two years. But he liked wine and knew about Washington wines, even back then. He and his wife took wine tours in Europe and loved it. He went for an MS in Enology at UC Davis. His first wine making job was at Dutton-Goldfield, which was a great education. He is still friends with Dan Goldfield. At Hartford Court in Forestville in 2006 he got his first winemaking job. In 2011 he started at Williams Selyem. He worked for winemaker Bob Cabral there. “It is a dream job.” Dan Berger says that Jeff “has checked all the boxes,” because he has worked with such great expert winemakers early in his career. One is Dan Goldfield, who founded his winery with fruit from the Dutton family. Also John Dyson brings knowledge of wine in New York state and Italy. Jeff says that John Dyson is unique in his expertise in the business side, as much as viticulture and winemaking.
John and Kathe Dyson also own a villa in Italy and they were two of the major donors on the restoration of Michelangelo’s David.
They still use several of Burt and Ed’s innovative tools and techniques, inclusing using repurposed dairy tanks, foot treading and more.
Michael Haney, from the Sonoma County Vintners Association, wanted to call in to testify to his friend Jeff’s ability. Jeff is a world class ambassador for Sonoma County as well, says Michael.
They have been sampling some wines, starting with a 2019 Williams Selyem Chardonnay from the Louis MacGregor estate vineyard, which they bought in 2014, in the heart of the “middle reach” of the Russian River Valley. It also has Wente Clone Chardonnay, with tiny berries and looser bunches. Jeff describes the wine in detail.
Dan says it splits the difference between rich and tart. Its refreshing, but has richness and crispness, intensity and delicacy in the aftertaste. These are compact and provide varietal characteristics at $85 a bottle that other more expensive wines do not have.
Dan Berger has not bought French Burgundy wine for years because theirs is overpriced, compared to the highest quality California Pinot Noir, such as these Williams Selyem wines.
Nova Perrill
Nova Perrill, winemaker at Foppiano Vineyards, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He has been on this show before, the last time was this episode on April 24, 2019. The pronunciation FOH-ppi-a-no is Italian, FAH-ppi-a-no is American and you can take your pick.
Foppiano winery is at the southern end of the city limits of Healdsburg.There have been grapes on that property for over 125 years. Southbound on the 101, take Old Redwood Hwy, and it’s on your right next to the nursery. They have been there since 1896. They have specialized in Petit Syrah, which they have made since their founding. They were the first to put that name on a bottle in 1964. Family members drew the borders for the Russian River Valley AVA, Louis Foppiano was a leader in that process. This was a big decision, to draw the line between the warmer Dry Creek Valley and the Russian River Valley, which is cooler. During Prohibition, the homeowner was allowed to make 200 gallons each year untaxed. Dan Berger tells about how some people pooled their permits and made more than a single family limit. They also shipped fresh grapes and sacramental wine. They found a way to survive Prohibition. There is a famous photgraph of an IRS “Revenuer” in front of the winery, watching wine being dumped.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Historically, Petit Syrah was the most important variety growing there. Russian River Valley is cool, but not so cool at its northern end, where they are. These wines age well in the bottle. They have fruit all the way until you open them. Nova Perrill has been at Foppiano Vineyards for seven years. He says it takes 5 solid years to get to know the vineyard, the operation and the people. Previously, Nova was the assistant winemaker at Dry Creek Vineyard, established in 1972 by David Stare. He made all the kinds of wine they produce, notably Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel. He was there for seven years. Before that, he was at Mt. Eden wines in Santa Cruz, run by Martin Ray. He sold his name to another winery. He was instrumental in passing better wine labeling laws in the 1940s. He himself learned from Paul Masson, who was a Frenchman who had a winery and specialized in sparkling wines. Today there is a top notch music venue on the Paul Masson property. He is a Cal Poly SLO grad, with a bachelor’s in ecology. He took the MS in Crop Science, there, and learned about viticulture, then he applied those concepts at Mt. Eden. He is happy with having taken a hands-on approach from the beginning. All they ever did to the wine was add yeast, the rest was 100% in the vines and climate. That allows the “terroir” to express itself.
Nova has pioneered his vineyard controls and vineyard management techniques. This Sauvignon Blanc will develop itself in the bottle over the next couple of years. Later Dan says it may be even better after 5 years.
They have about 150 acres around the winery. They produce 1000 cases or less of each of these varietals grown on their estate. There is real depth that comes with age in a well-made wine. “The winemaker has to build this into the wine. It doesn’t just happen.” Nova Perrill says that their Sauvignon Blanc vines are old and are visible from the 101. Dan Berger gets a little hint of lemon oil or lime and also a bit of fresh fig. Dan would decant it, to let the waxy component come out. Dan says that it’s screw capped, which is good for aging, but means it will need some air to let its flavors out, after it is opened.
Foppiano Vineyards is open for wine tastings, although they are not what they used to be, after the pandemic. Calling ahead is optional. They are open for outdoor tasting.
Now they taste a 2020 Chardonnay. Nova says, if you start with high-quality fruit, all you have to do is not screw it up. “You can only make the wine worse.” There is brightness and complexity in the same bottle here. At first you sense fruit.
Nova Perrill
Nova Perrill, winemaker at Foppiano Vineyards, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He has been on this show before, the last time was this episode on April 24, 2019. The pronunciation FOH-ppi-a-no is Italian, FAH-ppi-a-no is American and you can take your pick.
Foppiano winery is at the southern end of the city limits of Healdsburg.There have been grapes on that property for over 125 years. Southbound on the 101, take Old Redwood Hwy, and it’s on your right next to the nursery. They have been there since 1896. They have specialized in Petit Syrah, which they have made since their founding. They were the first to put that name on a bottle in 1964. Family members drew the borders for the Russian River Valley AVA, Louis Foppiano was a leader in that process. This was a big decision, to draw the line between the warmer Dry Creek Valley and the Russian River Valley, which is cooler. During Prohibition, the homeowner was allowed to make 200 gallons each year untaxed. Dan Berger tells about how some people pooled their permits and made more than a single family limit. They also shipped fresh grapes and sacramental wine. They found a way to survive Prohibition. There is a famous photgraph of an IRS “Revenuer” in front of the winery, watching wine being dumped.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Historically, Petit Syrah was the most important variety growing there. Russian River Valley is cool, but not so cool at its northern end, where they are. These wines age well in the bottle. They have fruit all the way until you open them. Nova Perrill has been at Foppiano Vineyards for seven years. He says it takes 5 solid years to get to know the vineyard, the operation and the people. Previously, Nova was the assistant winemaker at Dry Creek Vineyard, established in 1972 by David Stare. He made all the kinds of wine they produce, notably Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel. He was there for seven years. Before that, he was at Mt. Eden wines in Santa Cruz, run by Martin Ray. He sold his name to another winery. He was instrumental in passing better wine labeling laws in the 1940s. He himself learned from Paul Masson, who was a Frenchman who had a winery and specialized in sparkling wines. Today there is a top notch music venue on the Paul Masson property. He is a Cal Poly SLO grad, with a bachelor’s in ecology. He took the MS in Crop Science, there, and learned about viticulture, then he applied those concepts at Mt. Eden. He is happy with having taken a hands-on approach from the beginning. All they ever did to the wine was add yeast, the rest was 100% in the vines and climate. That allows the “terroir” to express itself.
Nova has pioneered his vineyard controls and vineyard management techniques. This Sauvignon Blanc will develop itself in the bottle over the next couple of years. Later Dan says it may be even better after 5 years.
They have about 150 acres around the winery. They produce 1000 cases or less of each of these varietals grown on their estate. There is real depth that comes with age in a well-made wine.
“The winemaker has to build this into the wine. It doesn’t just happen.”
Nova Perrill says that their Sauvignon Blanc vines are old and are visible from the 101. Dan Berger gets a little hint of lemon oil or lime and also a bit of fresh fig. Dan would decant it, to let the waxy component come out. Dan says that it’s screw capped, which is good for aging, but means it will need some air to let its flavors out, after it is opened.
Foppiano Vineyards is open for wine tastings, although they are not what they used to be, after the pandemic. Calling ahead is optional. They are open for outdoor tasting.
Now they taste a 2020 Chardonnay. Nova says, if you start with high-quality fruit, all you have to do is not screw it up. “You can only make the wine worse.” There is brightness and complexity in the same bottle here. At first you sense fruit. Or wait a year or two and get more complexity. Or decant it and taste how the air affects it.
They discuss Burgundian style Chardonnays. Nova Perril’s version is Burgundy the region that produces Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. These are the right varietals for that region. For whites, the juice goes right into barrels and is fermented in barrels. Malolactic fermentation will happen and there will be lees contact. Burgundian style will have fruit and oak, viscous, almost oily, oaky, a balance of acid, oak and fruit.
Tom Simoneau has brought his friend Peter Merriam and his son Evan, of Merriam Vineyards. They are both from Maine. Tom’s brother and Peter were best friends. In the early 90s, he became interested in purchasing a vineyard. In 2000 Tom had a friend who was selling Windacre Ranch which he bought. He also has Merriam Vineyards now.
But first, Mike Martini from Taft Street Winery is also here, staying over from the last segment. 14 days ago he brought freshly pressed Chardonnay juice, not fermented yet. Today, he has a sample of the same juice that has fermented for 10 days. It is about 3/4 of the way through the fermentation process. This will be bottled and ready for sale by next July. The next step will be after blending with some stainless steel-made Chardonnay and malolactic fermentation, in a few more weeks.
Evan says he likes getting his hands dirty making wine. William Weese, their winemaker, is too busy right now to come to the show.
Many people this year say that the quality of this vintage is very good although the volume seems less, generally. Tom had only 6 heat spikes, and there were 13 over 100 degrees last year.
Peter drank a good bottle of Burgundy wine back in the late 70s with Evan’s godfather. Then he ran a “package store” back east for 20 years, while visiting Tom every year since 1982. Long story short, he eventually acquired a property then another. His first vintage was 2000, 12 acres of Merlot. 18 months in oak and 18 more in bottle, before release. Then Sideways came out (…) These are 2 double golds, both Merlots.
There were 58,000 acres, up from 7,000 acres a few years earlier. Too many vineyards of Merlot were in the wrong places. Today’s Merlots however have recovered from that and the new ones are quite good now.
They are tasting their Undisclosed Chardonnay, which came from a fine Russian River Valley vineyard whose true name is a professional secret. But it’s excellent. They are tasting the 2019, their second of these bottlings.
This Chardonnay is about 30% new oak. Tom Simoneau gets tangerine, Dan Berger gets Orange Peel. Dan says the best part of Russian River Valley is that it gives good acidity, and the best way to make wine is not to have to adjust it.
The new Merriam label (right) is the work of Evan, who wanted to feature the unique terroir of the Russian River Valley on the label design.
William Weese is their winemaker, who couldn’t come in today because they are in the middle of harvest and he is too busy. As a winemaker he has been a consultant for a few brands as well as their full time winemaker and vineyard manager. He went to Chico State for Agricultural Business and he has gaines his wine industry experience through travel in the Southern Hemisphere and Europe. Merriam Vineyards has won three double golds at Harvest Fair this year, and Tom Simoneau won four. Not bad for two guys from Maine!
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Then they taste a Rosé of Pinot Noir, a double gold medal winner. It comes from where their winery and tasting room is, on Los Amigos Road. Peter describes how it is made, stainless steel and neutral oak barrels. It was picked to be Rosé, rather than “saigner” method. This is picked at lower sugar and higher acid.
“I focus on the details at a very slow speed.” So says Peter, on their website.
Peter describes how their whole family works in the winery, including his daughter who is in charge of the lab and also does everything else in the winery. Dan Berger explains that the lab helps winemakers make decisions between “the field and the house.” They are on Los Amigos Road between Windsor and Healdsburg. Their last wine tasted is a Merlot. Dan says it’s the wine you want for a lean piece of meat. Tom explains that a New York Strip would be better with a Cab. Then another Merlot and the inevitable reiteration of the Sideways effect.
Tom Simoneau has brought his friend Peter Merriam and his son Evan, of Merriam Vineyards. They are both from Maine. Tom’s brother and Peter were best friends. In the early 90s, he became interested in purchasing a vineyard. In 2000 Tom had a friend who was selling Windacre Ranch which he bought. He also has Merriam Vineyards now.
But first, Mike Martini from Taft Street Winery is also here, staying over from the last segment. 14 days ago he brought freshly pressed Chardonnay juice, not fermented yet. Today, he has a sample of the same juice that has fermented for 10 days. It is about 3/4 of the way through the fermentation process. This will be bottled and ready for sale by next July. The next step will be after blending with some stainless steel-made Chardonnay and malolactic fermentation, in a few more weeks.
Evan says he likes getting his hands dirty making wine. William Weese, their winemaker, is too busy right now to come to the show.
Many people this year say that the quality of this vintage is very good although the volume seems less, generally. Tom had only 6 heat spikes, and there were 13 over 100 degrees last year.
Peter drank a good bottle of Burgundy wine back in the late 70s with Evan’s godfather. Then he ran a “package store” back east for 20 years, while visiting Tom every year since 1982. Long story short, he eventually acquired a property then another. His first vintage was 2000, 12 acres of Merlot. 18 months in oak and 18 more in bottle, before release. Then Sideways came out (…) These are 2 double golds, both Merlots.
There were 58,000 acres, up from 7,000 acres a few years earlier. Too many vineyards of Merlot were in the wrong places. Today’s Merlots however have recovered from that and the new ones are quite good now.
They are tasting their Undisclosed Chardonnay, which came from a fine Russian River Valley vineyard whose true name is a professional secret. But it’s excellent. They are tasting the 2019, their second of these bottlings.
This Chardonnay is about 30% new oak. Tom Simoneau gets tangerine, Dan Berger gets Orange Peel. Dan says the best part of Russian River Valley is that it gives good acidity, and the best way to make wine is not to have to adjust it.
The new Merriam label (right) is the work of Evan, who wanted to feature the unique terroir of the Russian River Valley on the label design.
William Weese is their winemaker, who couldn’t come in today because they are in the middle of harvest and he is too busy. As a winemaker he has been a consultant for a few brands as well as their full time winemaker and vineyard manager. He went to Chico State for Agricultural Business and he has gaines his wine industry experience through travel in the Southern Hemisphere and Europe. Merriam Vineyards has won three double golds at Harvest Fair this year, and Tom Simoneau won four. Not bad for two guys from Maine!
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online. Then they taste a Rosé of Pinot Noir, a double gold medal winner. It comes from where their winery and tasting room is, on Los Amigos Road. Peter describes how it is made, stainless steel and neutral oak barrels. It was picked to be Rosé, rather than "saigner" method. This is picked at lower sugar and higher acid.
“I focus on the details at a very slow speed.” So says Peter, on their website. Peter describes how their whole family works in the winery, including his daughter who is in charge of the lab and also does everything else in the winery. Dan Berger explains that the lab helps winemakers make decisions between “the field and the house.” They are on Los Amigos Road between Windsor and Healdsburg. Their last wine tasted is a Merlot. Dan says it's the wine you want for a lean piece of meat. Tom explains that a New York Strip would be better with a Cab. Then another Merlot and the inevitable reiteration of the Sideways effect.
Clark Smith is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. His personal professional website is Who is Clark Smith dot com and his winery website is Winesmith Wines dot com.
Clark Smith was on CWC the last time on this episode from Sept. 11, 2019, with some wines that he made from exotic and rare grape varieties.
The previous time Clark Smith was on CWC was this episode from March 15, 2017.
First, as usual, we open a bottle from Dan Berger’s extensive personal cellar. This Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is green. It’s very flavorful even after 11 years in the cellar, where it was lost. He did not deliberately age this wine for so long. Dan “Lay It Down” Berger agrees with Clark Smith that there is no point in cellaring it since it tastes the same as it did eleven years ago. Clark explains how the screw cap had a lot to do with its preservation. “Screw caps are really really good for aging.”
The Winesmith website has dropdown menus for Forgeries and Oddities. By Forgeries, he means, wines that he makes here, but in a European Style, to imitate them as much as possible with local origin. He does a Cabernet Franc that’s a St. Emillion style, he does a St. Laurent that’s like an Austrian wine.
He also makes sulfite-free wines, Norton which is a native American grape, and other oddities. Winesmith is an experimental winery. He also has about 120 wineries that he coaches as a consultant. He wrote Postmodern Winemaking and teaches through those principles.
Dan Berger says there is nothing expected about his wines, it’s always unexpected. They are distinctive. That is the most important issue, distinctiveness is what you see and imagine and feel about a wine.
They will open a sparkling wine made from a variety that nobody would normally use for a sparkling.
Clark explains that this is one of three wines from the Slow Wine Guides. Their principles are making wine from “living soil” and sustainably, “…as opposed to the natural wine movement which we both hate.” He goes on to explain that in a sense, all wine is natural wine.
Clark Smith is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. His personal professional website is Who is Clark Smith dot com and his winery website is Winesmith Wines dot com.
Clark Smith was on CWC the last time on this episode from Sept. 11, 2019, with some wines that he made from exotic and rare grape varieties.
The previous time Clark Smith was on CWC was this episode from March 15, 2017.
First, as usual, we open a bottle from Dan Berger’s extensive personal cellar. This Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is green. It’s very flavorful even after 11 years in the cellar, where it was lost. He did not deliberately age this wine for so long. Dan “Lay It Down” Berger agrees with Clark Smith that there is no point in cellaring it since it tastes the same as it did eleven years ago. Clark explains how the screw cap had a lot to do with its preservation. “Screw caps are really really good for aging.”
The Winesmith website has dropdown menus for Forgeries and Oddities. By Forgeries, he means, wines that he makes here, but in a European Style, to imitate them as much as possible with local origin. He does a Cabernet Franc that’s a St. Emillion style, he does a St. Laurent that’s like an Austrian wine.
He also makes sulfite-free wines, Norton which is a native American grape, and other oddities. Winesmith is an experimental winery. He also has about 120 wineries that he coaches as a consultant. He wrote Postmodern Winemaking and teaches through those principles.
Dan Berger says there is nothing expected about his wines, it’s always unexpected. They are distinctive. That is the most important issue, distinctiveness is what you see and imagine and feel about a wine.
They will open a sparkling wine made from a variety that nobody would normally use for a sparkling.
Clark explains that this is one of three wines from the Slow Wine Guides. Their principles are making wine from “living soil” and sustainably, “…as opposed to the natural wine movement which we both hate.” He goes on to explain that in a sense, all wine is natural wine.
Alex Holman
Alex Holman from Notre Vue Estate Winery and Vineyard is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. The last time Alex Holman was on California Wine Country was October 28, 2020, almost a year ago. Here is that podcast episode.
Before we visit with Alex Holman, Mike Martini from Taft Street Wines has brought some delicious fresh grape juice, specifically the juice of the 2021 Hopkins River Ranch Chardonnay, which they have just pressed over the last few days. He will bring some more in, from time to time, as it gradually becomes wine. By tasting the juice along the way, you can learn about what winemakers do every year.
As we often do, we open the show with a bottle from Dan Berger’s extensive personal wine cellar. This week it turns out to be a bust. This 2016 Rosé has been stored at 55 degrees the whole time but today he noticed the color was really shot. And it’s terrible. The nose is abominable. When you see an old Rosé, if you don’t pay attention to the vintage, you can get a bad bottle. It should never be sold. Alex Holman explains how he makes Rosé, and it’s not like this. Later they will taste one of his Rosés.
The first wine that Alex Holman has brought to taste is a Chardonnay. It’s a clone of Chardonnay called Chardonnay Musqué, that has a lot of terpenes that are reminiscent of Muscat, Gewurtstraminer and Riesling. It is very floral and aromatic There is no new oak on it, you might call it Chablis style.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
The last time Alex was on the show one year ago, Dan took the half empty bottle home and 24 hours later the wine was better. This is a 2020, one of the rare 2020s that actually survived. He processed their normal 80 tons but only used about 16, the rest was discarded. Dan says the secondary characteristics have not developed yet. This won’t be released for several months. Dan thinks this wine won’t reach its peak for another two years, given the way Alan controls the acid in the vineyard.
Notre Vue winery is on land that was part of the early Vallejo Ranch lands so grapes have been planted there since the 1800s. But Doug Knoll and Dave Koonsgaard started the vineyard in the 1970s and Balverne was one of the first publicly traded wine companies. The Notre Vue winery has been making wine since 2010, prior to that they were just selling grapes. They grow 500-600 tons and he keeps “the best 100 tons” and sells the rest. The current owners have planted about half of the vines and the property includes 350 acres of forever-wild open space. Wine club members can hike and bike on the property. Their wine club actually grew during the pandemic because local people needed a place to get away.
All the information is available at Notre Vue dot com. They have a lot of space, so they won’t be full up. Dan Berger says it’s a beautiful property and really worth a visit. They are located in North Windsor. They do tastings Thursday through Monday from 11:30 am to 3:30 pm.
Alex Holman tells about being a Fresno State grad in Chemistry and one of his mentors in Chemistry is Barry Gump, who also taught at Santa Rosa JC. He is at Florida International University now. After he got into wine, he want back to school for an Enology degree that included hands-on wine production.
Dan Berger describes the Chardonnay as “stunning” as he has some in the glass and it is warming up. It’s already great and you can tell how much better it’s going to get.
Next they taste the 2020 Rosé which will be released in October. It’s GSM, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre which are co-fermented. They make a sparkling Rosé, a still Rosé and a red blend. It’s different from year to year depending on the crops. Even the bottle is unique, made of French glass, designed by Renée Stein, one of the co-owners.
Speaking of the Rosé, Dan Berger says it is really stylish. There is zero sugar. The acidity is perfectly balanced, tart with a mid-palette freshness because of the fruit. The fact that they are co-fermented (meaning all fermented together, not separately then blended) is what gives it extra flavors, compared to fermenting each one separately and then blending them. Rosés, like this, generally don’t get any benefit from aging.
Alex Holman has also brought a Zinfandel which he also co-fermented with Grenache and Mourvedre. It is 79% Zinfandel, 9% Petit Syrah, 8% Mourvedre and 4% Grenache. The Petit Syrah was blended in “at the bench” i.e. the workbench, and not co-fermented like the others. He bottles this Zin in a Burgundy bottle, because he makes it more like a Pinot Noir.
Notre Vue Estate will be hosting a blind tasting and dinner with Dr. Hoby Wedler, who has been on this show and its companion show Brew Ha Ha many times. He has been blind since birth, has a PhD in Organic Chemistry from UC Davis and is a well-known consultant on flavors and perception. Two of these wines, the Zin and the Malbec, will be part of that dinner. The Super-Sensory Trio Experience, Sat. Sept. 18, from 5 to 9 pm.
The last wine they taste is his 2019 Malbec. He makes all five Bordeaux varieties. If Napa owns Cabernet, Alex thinks Sonoma County should own Malbec. Dan Berger likes that the oak is held back and the fruit is the primary flavor. The delicious component is in the aftertaste. Everything he does in his winemaking style is to get delicacy, not heavy flavors. He likes Malbec and Merlot more than Cab.
Alex Holman
Alex Holman from Notre Vue Estate Winery and Vineyard is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. The last time Alex Holman was on California Wine Country was October 28, 2020, almost a year ago. Here is that podcast episode.
Before we visit with Alex Holman, Mike Martini from Taft Street Wines has brought some delicious fresh grape juice, specifically the juice of the 2021 Hopkins River Ranch Chardonnay, which they have just pressed over the last few days. He will bring some more in, from time to time, as it gradually becomes wine. By tasting the juice along the way, you can learn about what winemakers do every year.
As we often do, we open the show with a bottle from Dan Berger’s extensive personal wine cellar. This week it turns out to be a bust. This 2016 Rosé has been stored at 55 degrees the whole time but today he noticed the color was really shot. And it’s terrible. The nose is abominable. When you see an old Rosé, if you don’t pay attention to the vintage, you can get a bad bottle. It should never be sold. Alex Holman explains how he makes Rosé, and it’s not like this. Later they will taste one of his Rosés.
The first wine that Alex Holman has brought to taste is a Chardonnay. It’s a clone of Chardonnay called Chardonnay Musqué, that has a lot of terpenes that are reminiscent of Muscat, Gewurtstraminer and Riesling. It is very floral and aromatic There is no new oak on it, you might call it Chablis style.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
The last time Alex was on the show one year ago, Dan took the half empty bottle home and 24 hours later the wine was better. This is a 2020, one of the rare 2020s that actually survived. He processed their normal 80 tons but only used about 16, the rest was discarded. Dan says the secondary characteristics have not developed yet. This won’t be released for several months. Dan thinks this wine won’t reach its peak for another two years, given the way Alan controls the acid in the vineyard.
Notre Vue winery is on land that was part of the early Vallejo Ranch lands so grapes have been planted there since the 1800s. But Doug Knoll and Dave Koonsgaard started the vineyard in the 1970s and Balverne was one of the first publicly traded wine companies. The Notre Vue winery has been making wine since 2010, prior to that they were just selling grapes. They grow 500-600 tons and he keeps "the best 100 tons" and sells the rest. The current owners have planted about half of the vines and the property includes 350 acres of forever-wild open space. Wine club members can hike and bike on the property. Their wine club actually grew during the pandemic because local people needed a place to get away.
All the information is available at Notre Vue dot com. They have a lot of space, so they won't be full up. Dan Berger says it's a beautiful property and really worth a visit. They are located in North Windsor. They do tastings Thursday through Monday from 11:30 am to 3:30 pm.
Alex Holman tells about being a Fresno State grad in Chemistry and one of his mentors in Chemistry is Barry Gump, who also taught at Santa Rosa JC. He is at Florida International University now. After he got into wine, he want back to school for an Enology degree that included hands-on wine production.
Dan Berger describes the Chardonnay as "stunning" as he has some in the glass and it is warming up. It's already great and you can tell how much better it's going to get.
Next they taste the 2020 Rosé which will be released in October. It's GSM, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre which are co-fermented. They make a sparkling Rosé, a still Rosé and a red blend. It's different from year to year depending on the crops. Even the bottle is unique, made of French glass, designed by Renée Stein, one of the co-owners.
Speaking of the Rosé, Dan Berger says it is really stylish. There is zero sugar. The acidity is perfectly balanced,
Raghni Naidu
Raghni Naidu, owner of Naidu Wines, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Harry Duke is sitting in for Steve Jaxon and Barry Herbst is also in the studio today.
To begin, Dan Berger has brought a 2021 Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. It was harvested in February, sells for about $15 a bottle and it is excellent. Allan Scott is known as the Marlborough Man, because in 1973 he planted the first Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand, particularly in the Marlborough region. It has flavors of lime and is rich without being too sweet, but there is only a trace of sugar. "It has perfect structure," says Dan Berger. The lime character is a function of their cold temperatures at night, and winds that go east to west. It is a two-and-one-half hour drive from end to end of the island, so the vines have coastal influences on both sides of it. In that way it does not resemble Californian SVs very much.
Raghni Naidu was born and brought up in India. She tells her story on this page of her website. Her parents were very enthusiastic about entertaining guests at home. Her mother would bring seeds back home from her travels, and the fruits would end up on their tables with guests. This had an important influence on her. In 2000 she went to Melbourne to study, where she also met her husband. After they got married they moved to the United States, to the Bay Area. They lived in the city, raised a family and took many visits to wine country. In 2018 they were on a road trip from Monte Carlo to Barcelona. She loved everything about Provence and decided to have that in their lives, back in California. Three months later they purchased a vineyard property in Sebastopol from an Italian American gentleman who had the vineyard for 45 years. Soon after purchase, she realized it was not just a house and a farm, but collectively a very special place that she associated with the joy she felt growing up in her family.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Barry Herbst notes that the property was already known for producing great fruit that was going to several single-vineyard labels. Raghni describes her personal commitment to the quality of Naidu Wines and she wants to do the best she can in showcasing it. She also mentions later that her winemaker, Matt Duffy, was already making wine for the previous property owner and has a lot of experience.
Despite the pandemic, she launched her wines on time during 2020. This year, they released their Viognier, a Rosé of Pinot Noir and their estate Pinot Noir. Her wines have gained some early recognition and awards that she describes.
Harry Duke introduces Chris DiMatteo, podcast editor and friend of Steve Jaxon.
They begin tasting the 2020 Viognier. Barry likes it for being restrained and dry, bright and clean, while some other Viogniers get boring and cloying. Dan says this is "flower basket" which is ideal for Viognier. Chris can't add anything to what the experts have said, but he suggests a musical comparison. It suggests Mozart, not jolly fun light-hearted Mozart, but the darker Mozart, such as the Fantasy for solo piano K. 397. Dan Berger suggests he hears Debussy and Chris thinks maybe the Prélude called Puck's Dance.
W. A. Mozart, Fantasy in D minor for piano, K. 397, played by Alfred Brendel.
https://secureservercdn.net/198.71.233.28/a1j.e4a.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Mozart-Fantasy-in-D-Minor-K.-397-Alfred-Brendel.mp3
Claude Debussy, the Prelude called Puck's Dance, Book 1 n. 11, played by Leonard Pennario.
https://secureservercdn.net/198.71.233.28/a1j.e4a.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Debussy-Préludes-Pucks-Dance-Leonard-Pennario.mp3
Raghni says that even as an outsider, the challenges of making wine are the same for her and everyone else in the business, so she feels that unites them and makes her feel the same as any other. She also wants her customers to have a personal experience with the wine that is an expression of who she is as a per...
Raghni Naidu
Raghni Naidu, owner of Naidu Wines, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Harry Duke is sitting in for Steve Jaxon and Barry Herbst is also in the studio today.
To begin, Dan Berger has brought a 2021 Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. It was harvested in February, sells for about $15 a bottle and it is excellent. Allan Scott is known as the Marlborough Man, because in 1973 he planted the first Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand, particularly in the Marlborough region. It has flavors of lime and is rich without being too sweet, but there is only a trace of sugar. “It has perfect structure,” says Dan Berger. The lime character is a function of their cold temperatures at night, and winds that go east to west. It is a two-and-one-half hour drive from end to end of the island, so the vines have coastal influences on both sides of it. In that way it does not resemble Californian SVs very much.
Raghni Naidu was born and brought up in India. She tells her story on this page of her website. Her parents were very enthusiastic about entertaining guests at home. Her mother would bring seeds back home from her travels, and the fruits would end up on their tables with guests. This had an important influence on her. In 2000 she went to Melbourne to study, where she also met her husband. After they got married they moved to the United States, to the Bay Area. They lived in the city, raised a family and took many visits to wine country. In 2018 they were on a road trip from Monte Carlo to Barcelona. She loved everything about Provence and decided to have that in their lives, back in California. Three months later they purchased a vineyard property in Sebastopol from an Italian American gentleman who had the vineyard for 45 years. Soon after purchase, she realized it was not just a house and a farm, but collectively a very special place that she associated with the joy she felt growing up in her family.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Barry Herbst notes that the property was already known for producing great fruit that was going to several single-vineyard labels. Raghni describes her personal commitment to the quality of Naidu Wines and she wants to do the best she can in showcasing it. She also mentions later that her winemaker, Matt Duffy, was already making wine for the previous property owner and has a lot of experience.
Despite the pandemic, she launched her wines on time during 2020. This year, they released their Viognier, a Rosé of Pinot Noir and their estate Pinot Noir. Her wines have gained some early recognition and awards that she describes.
Harry Duke introduces Chris DiMatteo, podcast editor and friend of Steve Jaxon.
They begin tasting the 2020 Viognier. Barry likes it for being restrained and dry, bright and clean, while some other Viogniers get boring and cloying. Dan says this is “flower basket” which is ideal for Viognier. Chris can’t add anything to what the experts have said, but he suggests a musical comparison. It suggests Mozart, not jolly fun light-hearted Mozart, but the darker Mozart, such as the Fantasy for solo piano K. 397. Dan Berger suggests he hears Debussy and Chris thinks maybe the Prélude called Puck’s Dance.
W. A. Mozart, Fantasy in D minor for piano, K. 397, played by Alfred Brendel.
http://calwinecountry.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Mozart-Fantasy-in-D-Minor-K.-397-Alfred-Brendel.mp3 Claude Debussy, the Prelude called Puck’s Dance, Book 1 n. 11, played by Leonard Pennario.
http://calwinecountry.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Debussy-Préludes-Pucks-Dance-Leonard-Pennario.mp3 Raghni says that even as an outsider, the challenges of making wine are the same for her and everyone else in the business, so she feels that unites them and makes her feel the same as any other. She also wants her customers to have a personal experience with the wine that is an expression of who she is as a person.
Barry Herbst tells about Bottle Barn, where most of the center of the store is full of Rosé. The harvest fair is 3rd week of September, and the winners will be in the store the following week.
Dan Berger suggests a Portuguese wine called Post Scriptum, from the Douro region. It is a dark red wine and Dan says it is excellent.
The next wine is the Rosé, that Barry says is serious, a substantial Rosé that is clean, balanced and full-bodied for a Rosé, with a lot of complexity. Dan Berger suggests it would be great to accompany poached salmon, and the wine should not be cold. The difference between grilled and poached salmon is that the wine wants a more delicate flavor.
Then they taste the Pinot Noir, cherry, dark raspberry and a trace of forrest floor character. The wine has density and delicacy at the same time. Dan says it’s rich but not clumsy.
Johannes Brahms, Rhapsody for solo piano, Opus 79 n. 1, played by Martha Argerich.
http://calwinecountry.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Brahms-Rhapsody-Op.-79-n.1-Martha-Argerich.mp3 Johannes Brahms, Rhapsody for solo piano, Opus 79 n. 2, played by Martha Argerich.
http://calwinecountry.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Brahms-Rhapsody-Op.-79-n.2-Martha-Argerich.mp3 Chris takes a moment to listen to the wine and figure out what key it’s in.* He suggests this wine resembles Brahms, Rhapsody Opus 79 N.1, which alternates between complex, rich and dark textures, without being heavy, and other sections where the music is quiet and delicate. Harry Duke thinks maybe the Opus 79 N.2, instead. (Here are both Rhapsodies, for anyone to decide which they prefer.) Brahms can balance quiet delicacy against passages where both hands are playing full-fisted chords that keep a pianist very busy, and this wine seems that way to Chris.
Naidu Wines is not really open for tastings but people can book the house for overnight stays, for a very private, intimate experience. They are located in the Blucher Valley is just south-west of Sebastopol. The area does not have many homes. Kendall-Jackson has 400 acres of Pinot Noir planted nearby.
*Editor’s note: this is a highly specialized skill that requires years of training, drinking and listening.
Tom Liden is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He is one of the organizers of the Mendocino County Fair Wine Competition. The 42nd annual edition was held two weeks ago at the Fairgrounds in Booneville and Dan Berger was one of the judges.
Before they taste and describe the winning wines from the 2021 Mendocino County Fair Wine Competition, they have a bottle to taste from Dan Berger’s extensive cellar. It’s a 2016 Vintner’s Reserve Kendall Jackson Chardonnay. It was not supposed to be for aging but it has held up very well and it is a lot more complex and tasty than it was a few years ago. Dan likes to put wine away to see what happens and about 20% of the time, the wine falls apart, but the well made ones get better and better.
The Mendocino Winegrowers Inc, led by Executive Director Bernadette Byrne, produces the annual wine competition. Bernadette Byrne last appeared on California Wine Country in this episode, first heard on July 11, 2018. This is their 42nd year. There were 233 entries, and 43 double golds were awarded, also 36 golds and 103 silvers.
Tom Liden is also a photographer and he has brought a book of his photos to the studio. He worked for a commercial photographer in New York and then moved “back to the land” in Ukiah in the mid ‘70s and opened a commercial photography studio. His business grew along with the wine industry. The book is called Mendocino Roots and Ridges. The text was written by Heidi Cusick Dickerson and Dan Berger remembers writing a good review of this book when it came out in 2012. Heidi had been doing weekly stories for the local press then the Mendocino County Museum published the book as a good promotional piece for the county and the wines. The Mendocino County Museum in Willits has copies available for purchase.
He brought the Syrah, a Booneville Road 2018 Syrah from a small producer named Ed Donovan, which won the best of show red. It’s called Broken Leg Vineyards because it’s steep and the guy who planted the vineyard broke his leg in the process.
The second bottle is a 2019 Jaxon Keyes Estate Grenache from the final flight.
He has also brought a Gruner Veltliner 2020 Anderson Valley Navarro Vineyards. Dan Berger says that the minerality in the aftertaste is what makes this wine great. This varietal can be tricky to make and he says it is almost unheard of for a winemaker’s first effort to be this good.
Visit Bottle Barn in person or click the logo to visit them online for the best deals in wine country.
Tom Liden tells about being a volunteer in the early days of the competition. It was the first wine competition that featured only wine from Mendocino County grapes. Last year was the first Michigan wine competition. There is also one in Idaho and the Sonoma County Harvest Festival is also locals only.
Mendocino County is one of the areas at the forefront of organic farming, biodynamic farming and sustainability. Fetzer has been a leader in this area, for a long time.
Dan Berger is an internationally known wine judge. After this most recent competition in Mendocino, he said, “This is the best flight of reds in the 30 years I’ve been coming to this competition.” Dan says 25 years ago, the wines may have tasted great but didn’t represent anything. Now, an Anderson Valley Pinot Noir tastes like one and a Grenache tastes like a Grenache, etc.
At the Mendocino County Fair in Booneville on Sept 17, 18 and 19, the double gold medal winners will be pouring their wines. They will be there one at a time, taking turns.
The 2012 Best of Show awards are:
Best of Show Sparkling: McFadden Farm Cuvée Brut, Potter Valley Charlie Barra Award, Best of Show White: Navarro Vineyards 2020 Edelzwicker, Anderson Valley Best of Show Rosé: Lula Cellars 2020 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley John Parducci Award, Best of Show Red: Thomas T. Thomas Vineyards 2018 Reserve Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley
Tom Liden is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He is one of the organizers of the Mendocino County Fair Wine Competition. The 42nd annual edition was held two weeks ago at the Fairgrounds in Booneville and Dan Berger was one of the judges.
Before they taste and describe the winning wines from the 2021 Mendocino County Fair Wine Competition, they have a bottle to taste from Dan Berger’s extensive cellar. It’s a 2016 Vintner’s Reserve Kendall Jackson Chardonnay. It was not supposed to be for aging but it has held up very well and it is a lot more complex and tasty than it was a few years ago. Dan likes to put wine away to see what happens and about 20% of the time, the wine falls apart, but the well made ones get better and better.
The Mendocino Winegrowers Inc, led by Executive Director Bernadette Byrne, produces the annual wine competition. Bernadette Byrne last appeared on California Wine Country in this episode, first heard on July 11, 2018. This is their 42nd year. There were 233 entries, and 43 double golds were awarded, also 36 golds and 103 silvers.
Tom Liden is also a photographer and he has brought a book of his photos to the studio. He worked for a commercial photographer in New York and then moved “back to the land” in Ukiah in the mid ‘70s and opened a commercial photography studio. His business grew along with the wine industry. The book is called Mendocino Roots and Ridges. The text was written by Heidi Cusick Dickerson and Dan Berger remembers writing a good review of this book when it came out in 2012. Heidi had been doing weekly stories for the local press then the Mendocino County Museum published the book as a good promotional piece for the county and the wines. The Mendocino County Museum in Willits has copies available for purchase.
He brought the Syrah, a Booneville Road 2018 Syrah from a small producer named Ed Donovan, which won the best of show red. It’s called Broken Leg Vineyards because it’s steep and the guy who planted the vineyard broke his leg in the process.
The second bottle is a 2019 Jaxon Keyes Estate Grenache from the final flight.
He has also brought a Gruner Veltliner 2020 Anderson Valley Navarro Vineyards. Dan Berger says that the minerality in the aftertaste is what makes this wine great. This varietal can be tricky to make and he says it is almost unheard of for a winemaker’s first effort to be this good.
Visit Bottle Barn in person or click the logo to visit them online for the best deals in wine country.
Tom Liden tells about being a volunteer in the early days of the competition. It was the first wine competition that featured only wine from Mendocino County grapes. Last year was the first Michigan wine competition. There is also one in Idaho and the Sonoma County Harvest Festival is also locals only.
Mendocino County is one of the areas at the forefront of organic farming, biodynamic farming and sustainability. Fetzer has been a leader in this area, for a long time.
Dan Berger is an internationally known wine judge. After this most recent competition in Mendocino, he said, “This is the best flight of reds in the 30 years I’ve been coming to this competition.” Dan says 25 years ago, the wines may have tasted great but didn’t represent anything. Now, an Anderson Valley Pinot Noir tastes like one and a Grenache tastes like a Grenache, etc.
At the Mendocino County Fair in Booneville on Sept 17, 18 and 19, the double gold medal winners will be pouring their wines. They will be there one at a time, taking turns.
The 2012 Best of Show awards are:
- Best of Show Sparkling: McFadden Farm Cuvée Brut, Potter Valley
- Charlie Barra Award, Best of Show White: Navarro Vineyards 2020 Edelzwicker, Anderson Valley
- Best of Show Rosé: Lula Cellars 2020 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley
- John Parducci Award, Best of Show Red: Thomas T. Thomas Vineyards 2018 Reserve Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley
- Best of Show Dessert: Navarro Vineyards 2019 Cluster Select Late Harvest Riesling, Anderson Valley
As they taste the Jaxon Keyes Grenache, Dan Berger explains about this varietal. No grape variety more than Grenache, can be controlled in the vineyard. They grow massive quantities of leaves in the early growing season, so you have to cut the plants back to get the beautiful aromatics. Dan suggests putting two teaspoons of water into the wine in order to expose the fruit. A bit of water helps remove some of the alcohol and makes the fruit easier to taste.
Last they taste the Booneville Road 2018 Syrah, which is exceptional. Dan says it is the equivalent of a $100 of Australian Shiraz. It retails at $25 a bottle.
Allan Green
Canned Wine is the subject today, as Allan Green is here to talk about the International Canned Wine Competition on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Allan Green is the founder and former owner of Greenwood Ridge Vineyards.
Allan Green sold Greenwood Ridge Winery to the Wilson family, it is one of two wineries that they have in Mendocino Co. He started it in 1980 and sold in 2017. He made wine for 37 years. He was one of the pioneers of Pinot Noir and he also made Riesling. His background is in graphic design, but he has been running the Mendocino Co. Fair Wine Competition for 40 years so when the idea came to do the International Canned Wine Competition, he knew how to do it. Now they just completed their third annual competition.
They had 335 entries from 16 countries, including India, places where you don’t expect to find wine at retail. Getting the international entries through customs was hard. 85 Gold medals out of 335 were awarded. He has collected wine cans since 1980.
Dan Berger explains that the French were putting wine in cans since the late 1940s. About 1975 or 1980, the plastics industry came up with a plastic liner for these cans. Today’s can liners are quite perfect, they put a good seal on the can.
Dan Berger has brought a cellar dweller today, which he says is a little bit past its prime. He thought he would open it about 2015 and the extra years haven’t really helped. But they all say the second taste is better. It is a 2006 Arrowood Côte de Lune Blanc, made of Rousson, Marsane, Viognier and Grenache Blanc. It is a little bit oxidized but the flavors are still intact. “About 6 to 10 years in, these wines are really gorgeous.”
They have the best of show white wine, which was a surprise, from Allied Wine Works on the central coast, a Grüner Veltliner. They agree that you should pour this into a glass, not drink from the can. Allan explains that they let the wines breathe for a few minutes after opening, before tasting at the competition. This has the steely minerality of the varietal. Harry Duke says that he could never have told that it comes from a can. And Dan points out that it is so well protected from oxygen, that the wine needs a few moments to breathe. You have a fresher and younger wine than from a bottle.
Wine in cans is very convenient. The portions are small enough that you don’t have to put it away with a cork. It’s easy to fit the cans into a loaded fridge or ice cooler.
The results of the International Canned Wine Competition are online, from 2019, 2020 and this year. Dan found that the Tin Pony can from Iron Horse was excellent. Iron Horse is a major prestige label. Joy Sterling of Iron Horse, who was on the show not long ago, has launched the Tin Pony label for canned wine.
The early Chardonnay grapes are already coming in, in Sonoma County. Wineries that are picking for sparkling wine production are almost finished.
Allan describes the competition, which was set up like any other. One day they did 127 spritzers and coolers, in about 3 hours. The whites and reds had about 80 a day to taste. Allan also brought the best of show red, a Pinot Noir from Oregon. The size of the can is 375 ml, half a bottle. Dan says you can tell this wine was aged in barrels before it was put in the can. Dan tasted about 130 wines in a day at the Mendocino County Fair competition.
Dan Berger remembers a great line from Donine Dyer, a former winemaker of Domaine Chandon, who said, “Viewing a wine competition is like going to someone else’s high school reunion.” The public is never allowed into a competition. Dan was judging once when the public was invited and it was not easy at all and not to be repeated.
Allan Green
Canned Wine is the subject today, as Allan Green is here to talk about the International Canned Wine Competition on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Allan Green is the founder and former owner of Greenwood Ridge Vineyards.
Allan Green sold Greenwood Ridge Winery to the Wilson family, it is one of two wineries that they have in Mendocino Co. He started it in 1980 and sold in 2017. He made wine for 37 years. He was one of the pioneers of Pinot Noir and he also made Riesling. His background is in graphic design, but he has been running the Mendocino Co. Fair Wine Competition for 40 years so when the idea came to do the International Canned Wine Competition, he knew how to do it. Now they just completed their third annual competition.
They had 335 entries from 16 countries, including India, places where you don't expect to find wine at retail. Getting the international entries through customs was hard. 85 Gold medals out of 335 were awarded. He has collected wine cans since 1980.
Dan Berger explains that the French were putting wine in cans since the late 1940s. About 1975 or 1980, the plastics industry came up with a plastic liner for these cans. Today's can liners are quite perfect, they put a good seal on the can.
Dan Berger has brought a cellar dweller today, which he says is a little bit past its prime. He thought he would open it about 2015 and the extra years haven't really helped. But they all say the second taste is better. It is a 2006 Arrowood Côte de Lune Blanc, made of Rousson, Marsane, Viognier and Grenache Blanc. It is a little bit oxidized but the flavors are still intact. "About 6 to 10 years in, these wines are really gorgeous."
They have the best of show white wine, which was a surprise, from Allied Wine Works on the central coast, a Grüner Veltliner. They agree that you should pour this into a glass, not drink from the can. Allan explains that they let the wines breathe for a few minutes after opening, before tasting at the competition. This has the steely minerality of the varietal. Harry Duke says that he could never have told that it comes from a can. And Dan points out that it is so well protected from oxygen, that the wine needs a few moments to breathe. You have a fresher and younger wine than from a bottle.
Wine in cans is very convenient. The portions are small enough that you don't have to put it away with a cork. It's easy to fit the cans into a loaded fridge or ice cooler.
The results of the International Canned Wine Competition are online, from 2019, 2020 and this year. Dan found that the Tin Pony can from Iron Horse was excellent. Iron Horse is a major prestige label. Joy Sterling of Iron Horse, who was on the show not long ago, has launched the Tin Pony label for canned wine.
The early Chardonnay grapes are already coming in, in Sonoma County. Wineries that are picking for sparkling wine production are almost finished.
Allan describes the competition, which was set up like any other. One day they did 127 spritzers and coolers, in about 3 hours. The whites and reds had about 80 a day to taste. Allan also brought the best of show red, a Pinot Noir from Oregon. The size of the can is 375 ml, half a bottle. Dan says you can tell this wine was aged in barrels before it was put in the can. Dan tasted about 130 wines in a day at the Mendocino County Fair competition.
Dan Berger remembers a great line from Donine Dyer, a former winemaker of Domaine Chandon, who said, "Viewing a wine competition is like going to someone else's high school reunion." The public is never allowed into a competition. Dan was judging once when the public was invited and it was not easy at all and not to be repeated.
Today Tom Simoneau has brought Tim Bell, winemaker at Dry Creek Vineyard, to be our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon. Harry Duke is also in the studio and Dan Berger is away judging the Mendocino wine competition.
Tim Bell was a guest on California Wine Country in an episode that first aired on March 22, 2017. He was here again along with Dry Creek Vineyard founder David Stare in this episode from May 29, 2019.
Tim Bell begins by telling his personal history in the wine business. He worked for a wine retailer in Southern California called Liquor Barn, where he became acquainted with wine. He later attended UC Davis and he has been working in the business for 30 years now. Dry Creek Vineyard was founded by David Stare in 1972, part of a wave of new wineries that brought modern winemaking to California, including Chateau Montelena, Stag’s Leap and Burgess Cellars. They are known as the Class of ’72. They are planning some big parties for their 50th anniversary next year, along with several other North Coast wineries. “Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc continue to be staples for us today,” says Tim Bell. Dry Creek is best known for Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel.
They are taste the Dry Creek Vineyard 2020 Sauvignon Blanc. This sells for $20, which is a bargain for a good one. Next they taste a Dry Creek Vineyard 2019 Chardonnay, which is sold out. Steve, whose middle name is Chardonnay, loves it. They only make about 700 cases of this wine. They only pick from their favorite spots. In another month the 2020 will be out and it will be at least this good. Their best well known wine is Fumé Blanc which is a mix of Dry Creek and Russian River Valley grapes.
This wine is a second take on that, but with only Dry Creek fruit, and they also use some Sauvignon Musque and Sauvignon Gris. It has taken a few years for the vineyard to reach maturity but it’s there now. Tom Simoneau says it’s not too green, new mown hay. Tim Bell tastes ripe Meyer lemon, lime and a hint of peach or apricot. They do a limited amount of barrel fermentation but they don’t use new oak. They use older barrels, which may have held Chardonnay for a few years. They also use Acacia wood barrels, which have floral and minty notes. They also use 2-3% chestnut wood barrels, which add a vanilla cream quality
David Stare was quite a pioneer. Tom Simoneau says that we are in the middle of the golden years of winemaking and Dave is a friend. David Stare founded the winery and his daughter Kim Stare Wallace is President now of Dry Creek Vineyard. She is on the cover of Wine Spectator this issue. Dry Creek Vineyard is open outdoors by appointment only, since Covid. They are located on Dry Creek Road at the corner of Lambert Bridge Road, right across from the Dry Creek General Store.
Harry Duke asks what has to happen to a used barrel, before it can be used again. Tim Bell describes the cleaning process. You would never put a white wine in a red barrel. After 3 years, the oak flavor is used up. So a neutral barrel is its own individual fermentation tank. Especially with Sauvignon Blanc, the fermentation happens in one big steel tank. But with barrel fermentation, different barrels will have different characters, which add different layers of complexity
Next they taste a 2018 Dry Creek Vineyard Estate Zinfandel from the Wallace Ranch. This single vineyard zinfandel is from a vineyard right across from the winery. They make a wine called Heritage Vine Zinfandel that sourced budwood from an old Zinfandel vineyard, the Mazzone selection. They have it in 4 different estate vineyards, and each has its own personality. It’s 95% Zin and 5% Petit Syrah. It’s available only through the winery or the wine club.
Then they taste the second Zin. Tom Simoneau noticed the smoothness of the first Zin, this one is the 2019 and it’s a little softer. It was a cooler vintage, says Tim. This is a little lower in alcohol compared to some other big Zins.
Today Tom Simoneau has brought Tim Bell, winemaker at Dry Creek Vineyard, to be our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon. Harry Duke is also in the studio and Dan Berger is away judging the Mendocino wine competition.
Tim Bell was a guest on California Wine Country in an episode that first aired on March 22, 2017. He was here again along with Dry Creek Vineyard founder David Stare in this episode from May 29, 2019.
Tim Bell begins by telling his personal history in the wine business. He worked for a wine retailer in Southern California called Liquor Barn, where he became acquainted with wine. He later attended UC Davis and he has been working in the business for 30 years now. Dry Creek Vineyard was founded by David Stare in 1972, part of a wave of new wineries that brought modern winemaking to California, including Chateau Montelena, Stag’s Leap and Burgess Cellars. They are known as the Class of ’72. They are planning some big parties for their 50th anniversary next year, along with several other North Coast wineries. “Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc continue to be staples for us today,” says Tim Bell. Dry Creek is best known for Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel.
They are taste the Dry Creek Vineyard 2020 Sauvignon Blanc. This sells for $20, which is a bargain for a good one. Next they taste a Dry Creek Vineyard 2019 Chardonnay, which is sold out. Steve, whose middle name is Chardonnay, loves it. They only make about 700 cases of this wine. They only pick from their favorite spots. In another month the 2020 will be out and it will be at least this good. Their best well known wine is Fumé Blanc which is a mix of Dry Creek and Russian River Valley grapes.
This wine is a second take on that, but with only Dry Creek fruit, and they also use some Sauvignon Musque and Sauvignon Gris. It has taken a few years for the vineyard to reach maturity but it’s there now. Tom Simoneau says it’s not too green, new mown hay. Tim Bell tastes ripe Meyer lemon, lime and a hint of peach or apricot. They do a limited amount of barrel fermentation but they don’t use new oak. They use older barrels, which may have held Chardonnay for a few years. They also use Acacia wood barrels, which have floral and minty notes. They also use 2-3% chestnut wood barrels, which add a vanilla cream quality
David Stare was quite a pioneer. Tom Simoneau says that we are in the middle of the golden years of winemaking and Dave is a friend. David Stare founded the winery and his daughter Kim Stare Wallace is President now of Dry Creek Vineyard. She is on the cover of Wine Spectator this issue. Dry Creek Vineyard is open outdoors by appointment only, since Covid. They are located on Dry Creek Road at the corner of Lambert Bridge Road, right across from the Dry Creek General Store.
Harry Duke asks what has to happen to a used barrel, before it can be used again. Tim Bell describes the cleaning process. You would never put a white wine in a red barrel. After 3 years, the oak flavor is used up. So a neutral barrel is its own individual fermentation tank. Especially with Sauvignon Blanc, the fermentation happens in one big steel tank. But with barrel fermentation, different barrels will have different characters, which add different layers of complexity
Next they taste a 2018 Dry Creek Vineyard Estate Zinfandel from the Wallace Ranch. This single vineyard zinfandel is from a vineyard right across from the winery. They make a wine called Heritage Vine Zinfandel that sourced budwood from an old Zinfandel vineyard, the Mazzone selection. They have it in 4 different estate vineyards, and each has its own personality. It’s 95% Zin and 5% Petit Syrah. It’s available only through the winery or the wine club.
Then they taste the second Zin. Tom Simoneau noticed the smoothness of the first Zin, this one is the 2019 and it’s a little softer. It was a cooler vintage, says Tim. This is a little lower in alcohol compared to some other big Zins.
Harry is impressed with the tons of information available on the Dry Creek Valley label. Tim Bell agrees it presents a lot of information in a clever way. They also have a patented design of their corks, and they deliver information about that on the corks themselves.
Paul Kalumkarian is today’s guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. His father founded his company, the Wine of the Month Club, in 1972. His dad grew up in Cairo and was a Pharmacist who operated a pharmacy but he also liked wine and so he opened a wine shop adjacent to his pharmacy. It was one of the first shops in the LA area that stocked fine wine. Finally he left his pharmacy profession and dedicated himself to wine which he simply found to be a more pleasant line of work. When his father was ready to retire, Paul took over the family business.
As a promotion for his wine sales company, Paul Kalumkarian does a podcast called Wine Talks with Paul K. Since he buys a lot of wine, a lot of people will agree to be on his show, including some big names. Dan Berger was a guest on Paul’s podcast and now Paul returns the favor.
Dan Berger explains that Paul’s success depends on the qualaity of the wines that he choses for his club members. Every one of them has to be great, and that is what keeps the business going. Paul tastes every single one, and each one has to pass his own personal quality test. That’s why many people keep their subscriptions for many decades. Paul recently met some customers who joined in 1988. “Nothing goes through this club without me tasting it and approving it…”
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
They taste a 2016 North Coast Buena Vista Chardonnay. It’s available at Bottle Barn for $12.99. This is a good example of the great values in Paul’s club selection.
He has done his tasting ritual every Tuesday from 9am to 2pm, for 32 years and he estimates he has tasted over 100,000 wines. He says that he rejects 85% of the wines he tastes, which Dan Berger says matches his own experience. He has a 12,000 square foot warehouse in Monrovia, where there is also a tasting room. There are also 2 brewpubs nearby.
Paul Kalumkarian is today’s guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. His father founded his company, the Wine of the Month Club, in 1972. His dad grew up in Cairo and was a Pharmacist who operated a pharmacy but he also liked wine and so he opened a wine shop adjacent to his pharmacy. It was one of the first shops in the LA area that stocked fine wine. Finally he left his pharmacy profession and dedicated himself to wine which he simply found to be a more pleasant line of work. When his father was ready to retire, Paul took over the family business.
As a promotion for his wine sales company, Paul Kalumkarian does a podcast called Wine Talks with Paul K. Since he buys a lot of wine, a lot of people will agree to be on his show, including some big names. Dan Berger was a guest on Paul’s podcast and now Paul returns the favor.
Dan Berger explains that Paul’s success depends on the qualaity of the wines that he choses for his club members. Every one of them has to be great, and that is what keeps the business going. Paul tastes every single one, and each one has to pass his own personal quality test. That’s why many people keep their subscriptions for many decades. Paul recently met some customers who joined in 1988. “Nothing goes through this club without me tasting it and approving it…”
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
They taste a 2016 North Coast Buena Vista Chardonnay. It’s available at Bottle Barn for $12.99. This is a good example of the great values in Paul’s club selection.
He has done his tasting ritual every Tuesday from 9am to 2pm, for 32 years and he estimates he has tasted over 100,000 wines. He says that he rejects 85% of the wines he tastes, which Dan Berger says matches his own experience. He has a 12,000 square foot warehouse in Monrovia, where there is also a tasting room. There are also 2 brewpubs nearby.
Dan Barwick
Dan Barwick is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Harry Duke is also in the KSRO studio today. Dan Barwick is a busy winemaker who produces wine for two well-known wineries, Trecini Winery and Paradise Ridge Winery. Today he is here to talk about Trecini Winery.
Before tasting the Trecini wines that Dan Barwick has brought, Dan Berger has another cellar dweller, a 2008 Sonoma-Cutrer Russian River Ranches Chardonnay, a bottle that was lost and hidden at the bottom of a box in the cellar. He thought it would be dead but both Dans find it wonderful. The flavors are mature, the acids have held up nicely. They are still making beautiful wine there, but this is amazing, how it has held up. Steve's getting it on the third taste. Harry declares, "I'm out. It's not leaping to me as anything special."
After that, they taste Dan Barwick's Trecini Sauvignon Blanc. There is David, Cathy and John Vicini, the patriarch. Dan Barwick has been making wine for them for 20 years, and Sauvignon Blanc is their biggest production. Dan Berger says that Sauvignon Blanc is their claim to fame. They have several different vineyards, which Dan Barwick describes, in the Alexander Valley. Dan Berger tasts a bit of lemon and Cynar, which is an Italian artichoke liqueur. Dan thinks it would be perfect with a little bit of age, it expands the herbal components. It would ideally accompany shellfish.
Dan Berger says that the Trecini wines are cleaning up at competitions, and that Trecini is under the radar because they're mostly available locally. There is a small Trecini tasting room in downtown Santa Rosa. 684 7th St., corner of Humbold St, in downtown Santa Rosa.
Dan Barwick grew up in England and came to a harvest in Sonoma County in 1991 with the intention of learning about wine. He spent the next 19 years working in cellars throughout Sonoma County and asking a laot of questions. In 1995 he met Sonia Byck, part of a Byck family that owns Paradise Ridge. They married and went to wineries in the southern hemisphere on their honeymoon. He says he learned a lot by taking great winemakers to lunch. He has taken some courses at UC Davis which he calls an extraordinary bastion of information. Dan Barwick says that among all the facts you need to know, pay attention to pH. Dan Berger adds, it starts in the vineyard. If you're careful, beginning before harvest, it will carry you all the way to the bottle.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Next they have a vineyard designate Vicini Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir from 2019. It is very smooth and easy to drink. Trecini wines specifically aim for a slightly lower alcohol so that if you compare a glass of 12.5% alcohol wine to another at 15%, too much alcohol covers the great flavors.
Next they taste a 2018 Trecini Merlot, which triggers the memory of the movie Sideways and how Dan Berger inadvertently influenced that script. At the time, Dan was writing for the Los Angeles Times and had a frequent byline in LA. When the screenwriter contacted Dan for some information about wine, he misunderstood what Dan was telling him, and that is how the famous line about Merlot got into the movie. It's a story that's always good for a laugh or two. It's fresh and vibrant, tannins are low, and all you have to do is capture that in the vineyard, says Dan Barwick. It's still young, so vibrant and fruity, but already shows some of that dried black olive component. The idea is to capture the varietal character, which this does. It gives you something more than just fruit.
Dan Barwick says, "part of having that balance is picking your fruit early enough with a low enough level of sugar. You have all those dried herbs in Merlot, but if the fruit gets riper, these flavors disappear. All of these flavors ... are the medium-rares of the ripening level of any grape, really, and I troll in capturing those characteristics of the fruit."
Dan Barwick
Dan Barwick is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Harry Duke is also in the KSRO studio today. Dan Barwick is a busy winemaker who produces wine for two well-known wineries, Trecini Winery and Paradise Ridge Winery. Today he is here to talk about Trecini Winery.
Before tasting the Trecini wines that Dan Barwick has brought, Dan Berger has another cellar dweller, a 2008 Sonoma-Cutrer Russian River Ranches Chardonnay, a bottle that was lost and hidden at the bottom of a box in the cellar. He thought it would be dead but both Dans find it wonderful. The flavors are mature, the acids have held up nicely. They are still making beautiful wine there, but this is amazing, how it has held up. Steve’s getting it on the third taste. Harry declares, “I’m out. It’s not leaping to me as anything special.”
After that, they taste Dan Barwick’s Trecini Sauvignon Blanc. There is David, Cathy and John Vicini, the patriarch. Dan Barwick has been making wine for them for 20 years, and Sauvignon Blanc is their biggest production. Dan Berger says that Sauvignon Blanc is their claim to fame. They have several different vineyards, which Dan Barwick describes, in the Alexander Valley. Dan Berger tasts a bit of lemon and Cynar, which is an Italian artichoke liqueur. Dan thinks it would be perfect with a little bit of age, it expands the herbal components. It would ideally accompany shellfish.
Dan Berger says that the Trecini wines are cleaning up at competitions, and that Trecini is under the radar because they’re mostly available locally. There is a small Trecini tasting room in downtown Santa Rosa. 684 7th St., corner of Humbold St, in downtown Santa Rosa.
Dan Barwick grew up in England and came to a harvest in Sonoma County in 1991 with the intention of learning about wine. He spent the next 19 years working in cellars throughout Sonoma County and asking a laot of questions. In 1995 he met Sonia Byck, part of a Byck family that owns Paradise Ridge. They married and went to wineries in the southern hemisphere on their honeymoon. He says he learned a lot by taking great winemakers to lunch. He has taken some courses at UC Davis which he calls an extraordinary bastion of information. Dan Barwick says that among all the facts you need to know, pay attention to pH. Dan Berger adds, it starts in the vineyard. If you’re careful, beginning before harvest, it will carry you all the way to the bottle.
Click the logo to visit our sponsor Bottle Barn online.
Next they have a vineyard designate Vicini Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir from 2019. It is very smooth and easy to drink. Trecini wines specifically aim for a slightly lower alcohol so that if you compare a glass of 12.5% alcohol wine to another at 15%, too much alcohol covers the great flavors.
Next they taste a 2018 Trecini Merlot, which triggers the memory of the movie Sideways and how Dan Berger inadvertently influenced that script. At the time, Dan was writing for the Los Angeles Times and had a frequent byline in LA. When the screenwriter contacted Dan for some information about wine, he misunderstood what Dan was telling him, and that is how the famous line about Merlot got into the movie. It’s a story that’s always good for a laugh or two. It’s fresh and vibrant, tannins are low, and all you have to do is capture that in the vineyard, says Dan Barwick. It’s still young, so vibrant and fruity, but already shows some of that dried black olive component. The idea is to capture the varietal character, which this does. It gives you something more than just fruit.
Dan Barwick says, “part of having that balance is picking your fruit early enough with a low enough level of sugar. You have all those dried herbs in Merlot, but if the fruit gets riper, these flavors disappear. All of these flavors … are the medium-rares of the ripening level of any grape, really, and I troll in capturing those characteristics of the fruit.”
Dan Berger remembers the 1980s when people didn’t want “green” and they were burning off varietal characteristics. Fatness, hugeness and no varietal character were in fashion for a short time. But enough is enough. (Merlot plantings in California went from 8,000 in 1992 to 58,000 acres in 1997, and 90% of it was planted in the wrong places and the product was substandard.) This Merlot has the richness, but the dried herb component, which is essential to Merlot, is what makes it great. Dan Berger suggests that any red meat cooked with herbs can go with this Merlot and its dried herb flavor notes. But the food doesn’t have to be exotic or rarefied, this would go great with a burger too, or a hunk of cheese. In contrast with the 80s style, the cooler climate Merlot like this Trecini, is a great example of the best expression of the varietal. The slightly lower alcohol also means that the party and conversation won’t drag because everyone won’t get too drunk.
Adam Lee
Tom Simoneau is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today and he has brought a guest, Adam Lee, the winemaker at Clarice Wine Company. He was the founding winemaker at Siduri and Clarice is his own project that he launched after that experience.
Adam Lee begins by describing his experience in the wine business, beginning with jobs in retail and wholesale of wine, starting after college. He majored in History and studied the French Revolution. He also worked in restaurants. When he moved to California he made 107 cases of wine his first year here. He tells the story of bringing some wine to Robert Parker and he managed to start Siduri out of that and he got up to 35,000 cases and sold it to the Jackson family. He still works with the Siduri winery. But a few years after he left Siduri, he started Clarice. He named the winery after his grandmother who was born in 1896 in Giddings, Texas. She used to cook in a crock pot and used to say if you make a stew over 8 hours, the flavors blend together, but if you add something late in the cooking, the flavor stands out. He has applied that principle to his winemaking and describes making field blends of his Pinot. Steve also introduces Morét, the Clarice general manager, who describes her own wine project.
Today is July 14, Bastille Day, and Dan Berger notes that the changes in primogeniture laws affected properties in Burgundy but not on Bordeaux.
They begin tasting a 2011 Swiftwater Cellars Zephyr Hills Chardonnay, from Dan’s cellar, made by his friend Linda Trotta. She is now winemaker at Jameson Ridge in Napa. Tom Simoneau says he would never guess that this wine is ten years old. Adam Lee says that we don’t think of aging white wines. Then they taste Tom Simoneau’s Chardonnay, the Brenda Lee Chardonnay, this is the 2019, their newest. It’s 100% Chardonnay, wild yeast fermented, all from the Brenda Lee vineyard, planted with 9 different clones. Only 20% ML, since it’s Alexander Valley AVA, it’s a warm region and he does not need to soften the acidity, the fruit is all up front. The vineyard was planted in 1972. Dan Berger says that 3 or 4 years is plenty. Tom Simoneau sells wine only direct-to-consumer.
Adam Lee finds making white wine to be like baking, which requires exactness, and so it’s more challenging than red wine, which is more forgiving and that he compares to cooking, rather than baking.
They taste the Clarice 2018 Rosella’s Pinot from Monterey County. which is completely natural, no added sugar or yeast. Dan Berger says, “…you can smell the place…” and compares it to an empty nutmeg jar. Adam Lee describes the history of the vineyard and how he makes the wine differently now that the vineyard is older. Tom Simoneau reminds us that Clarice has a tiny production so if you’re interested, get ’em now!
The vineyards are in Monterey County but Adam Lee makes his wine in Sonoma County which is where he lives. He makes the Clarice in Sugarloaf, across from Oakmont, and he makes the Beaumarchais wines up in Healdsburg.
Pierre Beaumarchais was the author of the Marriage of Figaro and the Barber of Seville, and he was also active in supporting the American Revolution.
Adam Lee feels closest to Pinot Noir so he has made that his specialty. Tom notes that these wines are different, though they all come from the central coast.
Adam Lee
Tom Simoneau is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today and he has brought a guest, Adam Lee, the winemaker at Clarice Wine Company. He was the founding winemaker at Siduri and Clarice is his own project that he launched after that experience.
Adam Lee begins by describing his experience in the wine business, beginning with jobs in retail and wholesale of wine, starting after college. He majored in History and studied the French Revolution. He also worked in restaurants. When he moved to California he made 107 cases of wine his first year here. He tells the story of bringing some wine to Robert Parker and he managed to start Siduri out of that and he got up to 35,000 cases and sold it to the Jackson family. He still works with the Siduri winery. But a few years after he left Siduri, he started Clarice. He named the winery after his grandmother who was born in 1896 in Giddings, Texas. She used to cook in a crock pot and used to say if you make a stew over 8 hours, the flavors blend together, but if you add something late in the cooking, the flavor stands out. He has applied that principle to his winemaking and describes making field blends of his Pinot. Steve also introduces Morét, the Clarice general manager, who describes her own wine project.
Today is July 14, Bastille Day, and Dan Berger notes that the changes in primogeniture laws affected properties in Burgundy but not on Bordeaux.
They begin tasting a 2011 Swiftwater Cellars Zephyr Hills Chardonnay, from Dan's cellar, made by his friend Linda Trotta. She is now winemaker at Jameson Ridge in Napa. Tom Simoneau says he would never guess that this wine is ten years old. Adam Lee says that we don't think of aging white wines. Then they taste Tom Simoneau's Chardonnay, the Brenda Lee Chardonnay, this is the 2019, their newest. It's 100% Chardonnay, wild yeast fermented, all from the Brenda Lee vineyard, planted with 9 different clones. Only 20% ML, since it's Alexander Valley AVA, it's a warm region and he does not need to soften the acidity, the fruit is all up front. The vineyard was planted in 1972. Dan Berger says that 3 or 4 years is plenty. Tom Simoneau sells wine only direct-to-consumer.
Adam Lee finds making white wine to be like baking, which requires exactness, and so it's more challenging than red wine, which is more forgiving and that he compares to cooking, rather than baking.
They taste the Clarice 2018 Rosella's Pinot from Monterey County. which is completely natural, no added sugar or yeast. Dan Berger says, "...you can smell the place..." and compares it to an empty nutmeg jar. Adam Lee describes the history of the vineyard and how he makes the wine differently now that the vineyard is older. Tom Simoneau reminds us that Clarice has a tiny production so if you're interested, get 'em now!
The vineyards are in Monterey County but Adam Lee makes his wine in Sonoma County which is where he lives. He makes the Clarice in Sugarloaf, across from Oakmont, and he makes the Beaumarchais wines up in Healdsburg.
Pierre Beaumarchais was the author of the Marriage of Figaro and the Barber of Seville, and he was also active in supporting the American Revolution.
Adam Lee feels closest to Pinot Noir so he has made that his specialty. Tom notes that these wines are different, though they all come from the central coast.
Don Chigazola
Don Chigazola is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He is an Italian wine merchant. His company, Chigazola Merchants, imports small lots of fine Italian wine from small family producers located all over Italy, which he sells mainly through the Chigazola Merchants website, to his subscribers. Some wines are also in a few top local restaurants, by the glass.
Don describes how he made the transition from a career in the tech industry to setting up his company. He would go on vacation to italy and sample their great wines, most of which are never imported to America. He would come home and look for them, but he could not find the selection and quality he knew from Italy. So, he set up the company to look for good deals on the best wine. He finds small family producers in the country’s many wine producing regions, and he selects his favorites among them to establish a business relationship.
Dan Berger agrees that there are many great Italian varietals that deserve our attention, that simply do not arrive upon our shores. That’s why Chigazola Merchants has such an important role in the market here. There are great varieties that people here have never heard of, and will never find away from Italy.
http://calwinecountry.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Sonia_pronounces_Italian_wines.mp3 Here is the recording that shows the pronunciation of these Italian wine and geographical names, from Sonia Maspero, an Italian broadcaster expert in languages, food and beverages. Grazie Sonia!
Dan says that the key to their success is to monitor the quality all the way from bottling to shipping, in cold containers. It’s a complicated process. 200 years ago Don’s ancestors immigrated to America from Genoa, Italy, arriving in to New Orleans, which was the other early center of Italian immigration apart from the northeast.
The first wine they taste is Passerina, it’s bright, fresh, young, elegant with aromatics and a very delicate fresh fennel element with a bit of celery on top. Very bright with no oak, balanced, beautiful acidity to go with just enough alcohol. It’s labeled as 13.5 but feels like less.
The winery is about two kilometers from the beach. Passerina is grown strictly in the Marche, which is the region on the Adriatic coast, along the middle of the peninsula.
Every region has its famous wines. Piedmont is known for Barbera and Barolo, Tuscany is known for Chianti, and central Italy is known for whites. Don’s wine club members have been asking for more and more white wines lately. Dan Berger thinks it’s because there is too much sameness in Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in the US. There is some Pinot Grigio which usually isn’t very interesting. The Italian whites grow on you, they all have character of their own.
The same family produces the next wine, a Pecorino. It shares a name with sheep’s milk cheese, because the grapes grew in the mountains where shepherds brought sheep up into the mountains every summer. The sheep and shepherds ate the grapes and the grapes got their name that way.
Don Chigazola has many great stories about friendships made among the families and winemakers. One story of a family in Montemiletto, in the province of Avellino, in the inland hills. There is an old Norman castle there. Don found the piazza in town, in the afternoon, where the local men were congregating. He asked them who made the best local wine and immediately he got a flood of suggestions. He asked them about the De Santis family, whom he was going to visit, and they all said their wine was first rate. So before he even went to the winery, “we had the endorsement of the park bench.” Later, they family got him a private tour of the castle.They also taste the Pecorino, also from Paolo and Carlo Petracci at Cantina Madonnabruna. Dan says it has a very faint hint of dried pineapple. It is great now and could get richer after a year.
They also taste the Verdicchio which would go very well with clams. This variety is emerging as one if Italy’s most significant white wines. Don says that the Italians are beginning to realize that Verdicchio is the star of Italian white wines. There is still not very much of it on the west coast. Andrea Petrini, the producer, lives and breathes Verdicchio. His wine has become very popular. He only has about 20 acres but he is selling out all of his wines. Tenuta dell’Ugolino is the winery, named after his grandfather. The Vignetto del Belluccio is the name of the vineyard.
Don says that more often than not he has to say No to a winery, and after getting to know them, sometimes that’s not easy because they are so friendly.
The Falanghina and Greco di Tufo wines are the last two opened and tasted. Both come from the Avellino province in the Campania region, inland from Naples. The Greco di Tufo comes last, and among today’s bottles, it is the only DOCG wine, the highest certified designation, meaning Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita. Greco is a kind of grape that originated in Greece.
Don Chigazola
Don Chigazola is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He is an Italian wine merchant. His company, Chigazola Merchants, imports small lots of fine Italian wine from small family producers located all over Italy, which he sells mainly through the Chigazola Merchants website, to his subscribers. Some wines are also in a few top local restaurants, by the glass.
Don describes how he made the transition from a career in the tech industry to setting up his company. He would go on vacation to italy and sample their great wines, most of which are never imported to America. He would come home and look for them, but he could not find the selection and quality he knew from Italy. So, he set up the company to look for good deals on the best wine. He finds small family producers in the country’s many wine producing regions, and he selects his favorites among them to establish a business relationship.
Dan Berger agrees that there are many great Italian varietals that deserve our attention, that simply do not arrive upon our shores. That’s why Chigazola Merchants has such an important role in the market here. There are great varieties that people here have never heard of, and will never find away from Italy.
https://secureservercdn.net/198.71.233.28/a1j.e4a.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Sonia_pronounces_Italian_wines.mp3
Here is the recording that shows the pronunciation of these Italian wine and geographical names, from Sonia Maspero, an Italian broadcaster expert in languages, food and beverages. Grazie Sonia!
Dan says that the key to their success is to monitor the quality all the way from bottling to shipping, in cold containers. It's a complicated process. 200 years ago Don’s ancestors immigrated to America from Genoa, Italy, arriving in to New Orleans, which was the other early center of Italian immigration apart from the northeast.
The first wine they taste is Passerina, it’s bright, fresh, young, elegant with aromatics and a very delicate fresh fennel element with a bit of celery on top. Very bright with no oak, balanced, beautiful acidity to go with just enough alcohol. It’s labeled as 13.5 but feels like less.
The winery is about two kilometers from the beach. Passerina is grown strictly in the Marche, which is the region on the Adriatic coast, along the middle of the peninsula.
Every region has its famous wines. Piedmont is known for Barbera and Barolo, Tuscany is known for Chianti, and central Italy is known for whites. Don's wine club members have been asking for more and more white wines lately. Dan Berger thinks it's because there is too much sameness in Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in the US. There is some Pinot Grigio which usually isn’t very interesting. The Italian whites grow on you, they all have character of their own.
The same family produces the next wine, a Pecorino. It shares a name with sheep’s milk cheese, because the grapes grew in the mountains where shepherds brought sheep up into the mountains every summer. The sheep and shepherds ate the grapes and the grapes got their name that way.
Don Chigazola has many great stories about friendships made among the families and winemakers. One story of a family in Montemiletto, in the province of Avellino, in the inland hills. There is an old Norman castle there. Don found the piazza in town, in the afternoon, where the local men were congregating. He asked them who made the best local wine and immediately he got a flood of suggestions. He asked them about the De Santis family, whom he was going to visit, and they all said their wine was first rate. So before he even went to the winery, “we had the endorsement of the park bench.” Later, they family got him a private tour of the castle.They also taste the Pecorino, also from Paolo and Carlo Petracci at Cantina Madonnabruna. Dan says it has a very faint hint of dried pineapple. It is great now and could get richer after a year.
Theresa Heredia is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. She is the winemaker at Gary Farrell Winery and she has been on CWC twice in the last few years, first in April of 2017 and again in December of 2018.
Theresa Heredia from Gary Farrell Winery is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Steve Jaxon reads from the winery’s website: “’Explore the legacy of our Pinot Noir and Chardonnay roots.’ That’s enough for me! My two favorite wines in the world,” says Steve Jaxon.
The Gary Farrell brand has been around since the early 80s. His first was 1982 when he worked for Rocchioli. Gary went to Fresno State and studied political science and made beer in his dorm room, which is how he got into fermentation science. Dan adds a little to the story, about how Gary’s first job at Davis Bynum was as a handyman. He was painting and doing light construction. All the while he was paying attention to his surroundings and Hampton Bynum gave him a chance to make wine.
Theresa Heredia is the current winemaker at Gary Farrell. She comes from Pittsburg California which is not a wine making place. She studied biochemistry as an undergrad at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo then worked in biopharmaceuticals for a short time before starting grad school in biochemistry at UC Davis. She was already in love with wine even if she was doing cancer therapeutics research. When she had meetings with the other chemistry majors where they would describe their work to each other, she discovered the wine program when the enology students brought wine to the meetings. She has been at Gary Farrell for 9 years. Before that she was winemaker at Freestone Vineyards for 10 years.
Dan Berger ads that every bit of equipment at this winery is carefully construted to get the result that they do, which is delicate wines that go well with food. Theresa Heredia says that Gary Farrell Winery makes “between 24 and 27, approximately” different wines, SV, R of Pinot Noir, about 8 different Chardonnays, 12 to 14 pinots and a Zinfandel.
Dan Berger says of the 2018 Chardonnay, that the last thing you taste is the acid, and it is very smooth. Venovia vineyard is planted in the Burgundian style, the vines are lower and closer together so the plants have more competition. Gary Farrell retired after the 2005 vintage. Dan says that Theresa and others are carrying on a lot of the work that Gary Farrell did in the wine world.
Gary Farrell wines are available at Bottle Barn.
Next they taste a 2017 Pinot Noir. Dan Berger describes it. It is too young, but has a lot of potential. It’s not a strawberry/raspberry Russian River Valley style. It is more like the Petaluma Gap, having better acidity. It would go well with rare roast beef, says Dan. It’s so young, and it does need time.
Gary Farrell Winery is located in the heart of Russian River Valley on West Side Road. The winery is at the top of a hill, in front of Mt. Jackson. Dan Berger says that Sonoma County people probably don’t go wine tasting, like many people who live in famous cities don’t frequent the local monuments. But Gary Farrell winery is one to visit. Dan tells about some friends who went there and said it was their favorite winery experience.
Next they taste the Taboni vineyard, near Santa Rosa, and it’s a classic Russian River Valley style, strawberries and raspberries with a little bit of wild thyme. Compared to the other one, this is succulent. It’s got more pizzaz, and you can drink it now, even if it’s just a 2018. The 2017 needs more time in the bottle but this one is silky, juicy and delicious right now. Dan Berger likes it because it illustrates what Russian River Valley does best.
Theresa Heredia is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. She is the winemaker at Gary Farrell Winery and she has been on CWC twice in the last few years, first in April of 2017 and again in December of 2018.
Theresa Heredia from Gary Farrell Winery is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Steve Jaxon reads from the winery’s website: “’Explore the legacy of our Pinot Noir and Chardonnay roots.’ That’s enough for me! My two favorite wines in the world,” says Steve Jaxon.
The Gary Farrell brand has been around since the early 80s. His first was 1982 when he worked for Rocchioli. Gary went to Fresno State and studied political science and made beer in his dorm room, which is how he got into fermentation science. Dan adds a little to the story, about how Gary’s first job at Davis Bynum was as a handyman. He was painting and doing light construction. All the while he was paying attention to his surroundings and Hampton Bynum gave him a chance to make wine.
Theresa Heredia is the current winemaker at Gary Farrell. She comes from Pittsburg California which is not a wine making place. She studied biochemistry as an undergrad at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo then worked in biopharmaceuticals for a short time before starting grad school in biochemistry at UC Davis. She was already in love with wine even if she was doing cancer therapeutics research. When she had meetings with the other chemistry majors where they would describe their work to each other, she discovered the wine program when the enology students brought wine to the meetings. She has been at Gary Farrell for 9 years. Before that she was winemaker at Freestone Vineyards for 10 years.
Dan Berger ads that every bit of equipment at this winery is carefully construted to get the result that they do, which is delicate wines that go well with food. Theresa Heredia says that Gary Farrell Winery makes “between 24 and 27, approximately” different wines, SV, R of Pinot Noir, about 8 different Chardonnays, 12 to 14 pinots and a Zinfandel.
Dan Berger says of the 2018 Chardonnay, that the last thing you taste is the acid, and it is very smooth. Venovia vineyard is planted in the Burgundian style, the vines are lower and closer together so the plants have more competition. Gary Farrell retired after the 2005 vintage. Dan says that Theresa and others are carrying on a lot of the work that Gary Farrell did in the wine world.
Gary Farrell wines are available at Bottle Barn.
Next they taste a 2017 Pinot Noir. Dan Berger describes it. It is too young, but has a lot of potential. It’s not a strawberry/raspberry Russian River Valley style. It is more like the Petaluma Gap, having better acidity. It would go well with rare roast beef, says Dan. It’s so young, and it does need time.
Gary Farrell Winery is located in the heart of Russian River Valley on West Side Road. The winery is at the top of a hill, in front of Mt. Jackson. Dan Berger says that Sonoma County people probably don’t go wine tasting, like many people who live in famous cities don’t frequent the local monuments. But Gary Farrell winery is one to visit. Dan tells about some friends who went there and said it was their favorite winery experience.
Next they taste the Taboni vineyard, near Santa Rosa, and it’s a classic Russian River Valley style, strawberries and raspberries with a little bit of wild thyme. Compared to the other one, this is succulent. It’s got more pizzaz, and you can drink it now, even if it’s just a 2018. The 2017 needs more time in the bottle but this one is silky, juicy and delicious right now. Dan Berger likes it because it illustrates what Russian River Valley does best.
Justin Seidenfeld
Tom Simoneau has brought two guests on to California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today from Rodney Strong Vineyards. They are Head of Winemaking Justin Seidenfeld and Director of Communication Chris O’Gorman.
Their story begins 55 years ago when a celebrated American dancer, Rodney Strong, retired to wine country after a career dancing on Broadway and in Paris. He was a famous dance prodigy from Washington state. He was asked to bring American dances to the Parisian audiences and he fell in love with wine when he lived in France.
When Rodney Strong planted the Chalk Hill vineyard in 1965 there were 300 acres of Chardonnay in California in 1965. Then he planted 100 acres of it and truly, the rest is history.
Tom Simoneau remembers when he first came to California in 1978 and was playing music at the time, he lived in Healdsburg and they had a big band house Fitz Mountain where they would rehearse. Then they would drive down to their tasting room and taste through everything. This is when he got into wine. Rodney Strong passed away about ten years ago but remained active at the winery into the 1990s even after the Kline family purchased the winery.
Wine Enthusiast’s American Winery of the Year in 2013. Justin Seidenfeld is only the third winemaker at Rodney Strong Winery, the first was Rodney Strong and the second was Rick Sayre.
First they taste a Rosé of Pinot Noir that Justin calls an “intentional” Rosé, meaning that these grapes were grown and harvested just for Rosé, earlier, like 20-21 brix. They have watermelon and strawberry components, jasmine, and lower alcohol. Dan Berger explains that some Rosés are made from juice bled off the red wine tank, which makes a stronger Rosé. This wine, on the other hand, is more like a white wine with a bit of color, more delicate and fragrant than other Rosés.
They have a new label which is part of their rejuvenation project. They have converted to screw caps which have a lot of advantages. They find that their consumers appreciate. Dan Berger explains that the kind of liner in the cap determines the OTR Oxygen Transfer Rate for the wine. They still use cork for the big reds though. “Comitted to Community since 1959” is their slogan. They have always supported the arts in Sonoma County. They are not going to do the big Summer concert series but they are working on a smaller scale Americana concert.
Next they taste the 2019 California Chardonnay which has evolved over the years. Now they are looking for cool climate vineyards, to get the tropical character, and the Sonoma County grapes compliment with their flavors, like green apple. Dan says it’s meant to be enjoyed immediately. Like the Rosé, Steve finds it unique. Tom says this one might take an award away from some more expensive Chards. It is creamy, rich and tangy.
Justin Seidenfeld declares his philosophy that, “The wine is made in the vineyard” and that if there is one term to define his wine, it is balance.
Tom Simoneau tells about a Cabernet Sauvignon he is making called True Love, that he and his wife Brenda picked and made.
They taste a 2019 Petaluma Gap Pinot Noir, from the newest AVA in Sonoma County. This AVA is truly distinguished by its climate. This is the most southernly vineyard in Sonoma County, on the top of a hill about 275 feet elevation.
Justin Seidenfeld
Tom Simoneau has brought two guests on to California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today from Rodney Strong Vineyards. They are Head of Winemaking Justin Seidenfeld and Director of Communication Chris O’Gorman.
Their story begins 55 years ago when a celebrated American dancer, Rodney Strong, retired to wine country after a career dancing on Broadway and in Paris. He was a famous dance prodigy from Washington state. He was asked to bring American dances to the Parisian audiences and he fell in love with wine when he lived in France.
When Rodney Strong planted the Chalk Hill vineyard in 1965 there were 300 acres of Chardonnay in California in 1965. Then he planted 100 acres of it and truly, the rest is history.
Tom Simoneau remembers when he first came to California in 1978 and was playing music at the time, he lived in Healdsburg and they had a big band house Fitz Mountain where they would rehearse. Then they would drive down to their tasting room and taste through everything. This is when he got into wine. Rodney Strong passed away about ten years ago but remained active at the winery into the 1990s even after the Kline family purchased the winery.
Wine Enthusiast’s American Winery of the Year in 2013. Justin Seidenfeld is only the third winemaker at Rodney Strong Winery, the first was Rodney Strong and the second was Rick Sayre.
First they taste a Rosé of Pinot Noir that Justin calls an “intentional” Rosé, meaning that these grapes were grown and harvested just for Rosé, earlier, like 20-21 brix. They have watermelon and strawberry components, jasmine, and lower alcohol. Dan Berger explains that some Rosés are made from juice bled off the red wine tank, which makes a stronger Rosé. This wine, on the other hand, is more like a white wine with a bit of color, more delicate and fragrant than other Rosés.
They have a new label which is part of their rejuvenation project. They have converted to screw caps which have a lot of advantages. They find that their consumers appreciate. Dan Berger explains that the kind of liner in the cap determines the OTR Oxygen Transfer Rate for the wine. They still use cork for the big reds though. “Comitted to Community since 1959” is their slogan. They have always supported the arts in Sonoma County. They are not going to do the big Summer concert series but they are working on a smaller scale Americana concert.
Next they taste the 2019 California Chardonnay which has evolved over the years. Now they are looking for cool climate vineyards, to get the tropical character, and the Sonoma County grapes compliment with their flavors, like green apple. Dan says it’s meant to be enjoyed immediately. Like the Rosé, Steve finds it unique. Tom says this one might take an award away from some more expensive Chards. It is creamy, rich and tangy.
Justin Seidenfeld declares his philosophy that, “The wine is made in the vineyard” and that if there is one term to define his wine, it is balance.
Tom Simoneau tells about a Cabernet Sauvignon he is making called True Love, that he and his wife Brenda picked and made.
They taste a 2019 Petaluma Gap Pinot Noir, from the newest AVA in Sonoma County. This AVA is truly distinguished by its climate. This is the most southernly vineyard in Sonoma County, on the top of a hill about 275 feet elevation.
Cameron Hughes
Cameron Hughes joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. He is a wine merchant, following more or less the business model of a négociant in France. He buys bulk wine for a low price and sells it to retail customers through De Négoce, his label and sales company. (The company name is French for “of the trade.”)
California produces so much good wine that not all of it finds a buyer. Dan Berger agrees the wine is really high quality wine that simply doesn’t have a home. Cameron Hughes has been doing this for about 20 years. He built a concept called the “lot concept.” He sold that company in 2017. Cinergi was his previous brand. Then in 2019 someone offered him 100,000 gallons of 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon at a really good price and he felt he had to get back into the business. He finds wines that he can sell for 80% below their normal retail price.
En Primeur is the French name of the early buying period in French wineries. (This is also done in Italy, la vendemmia. -ed.) Dan Berger says the difference is that Cameron Hughes has a fabulous palette so customers can trust his choices will turn out well.
Mondavi used to have the slogan, “We’ll sell no wine before its time,” spoken by the great Orson Welles. Cameron Hughes has reversed that and says, “We’ll sell a big chunk of the wine before its time, because it’s what I do.” They did over 90,000 cases of wine in the last year. The website store has launched. Last year, the wine wasn’t even bottled. The earlier you buy in the cycle, the lower the price. They are tasting a Viognier that would sell for about $25 and Cameron Hughes sells it for $8. Since these wines are so young, consumers should cellar them for a while. Cameron agrees and says the need to keep them for a while is the tradeoff for getting a $25 bottle for $8.
California Wine Country’s sponsor Bottle Barn is where Wine Country buys its wine. Bottle Barn can ship wine to most states.
Click the logo to visit Bottle Barn . com
Cameron Hughes grew up in Modesto, California and went to high school “with the Gallo kids” and his dad worked for Gallo then for The Wine Group. His first job was to collect and dump old out-of-code wine. He got a sales job in the wine business where he could build up his personal cellar. There used to be a 40% discount given among people in the wine trade, but that’s no longer done. Then he put a brand together and made a sale to Costco that started Cameron Hughes Lot 1. He sold that company and went into the high-end steak business, but was tempted by the wine business again and now has also started De Négoce.
They taste a Chardonnay that Dan Berger says, “…leans in the direction of Chablis” so if you don’t like fancy oak Chardonnay, this will be your taste. It will age for 10-12 years. Now they taste a different Chardonnay, in a different style. It’s a richer, more opulent style. It is 14.2% alcohol, from Russian River Valley. It retails for $95, from a world-famous winemaker. But De Négoce is able to sell it for $20. Dan Berger says that is outrageous. There is a character in the fruit, it is less tropical and more citrus. It leans to a lime-flavor and fresh grapefruit component. There is another Chardonnay to taste. It comes from high up the Mayacamas Mountains, in Sonoma County, about 2000 feet of elevation. Part of the De Négoce business is that Cameron Hughes can not disclose exactly where the wine came from or who made it.
Next is a Sonoma Mountain Cabernet, made by a husband-and-wife team. The vineyard is called Pickberry Vineyard on Sonoma Mountain. It is very young and needs time in the bottle. Dan says it’s hard to tell how long to keep it because it is so young you still get primary fermentation characteristics in it. He would put it away for at least a year. Cameron and Dan agree that the 2018 Vintage of Napa Cabs is a great year.
Next they taste a Spring Mountain Cabernet. It sells for $29 at De Négoce and its normal retail is over $100. Dan Berger thinks he knows exactly who made the wine. It is too young to develop the Cabernet character yet, but it is showing old-world styling. Dan Berger says that the tannins are strong but if you decant it for about 2 hours, that will knock out 90% of the tannins.
Cameron Hughes
Cameron Hughes joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. He is a wine merchant, following more or less the business model of a négociant in France. He buys bulk wine for a low price and sells it to retail customers through De Négoce, his label and sales company. (The company name is French for "of the trade.")
California produces so much good wine that not all of it finds a buyer. Dan Berger agrees the wine is really high quality wine that simply doesn’t have a home. Cameron Hughes has been doing this for about 20 years. He built a concept called the “lot concept.” He sold that company in 2017. Cinergi was his previous brand. Then in 2019 someone offered him 100,000 gallons of 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon at a really good price and he felt he had to get back into the business. He finds wines that he can sell for 80% below their normal retail price.
En Primeur is the French name of the early buying period in French wineries. (This is also done in Italy, la vendemmia. -ed.) Dan Berger says the difference is that Cameron Hughes has a fabulous palette so customers can trust his choices will turn out well.
Mondavi used to have the slogan, “We’ll sell no wine before its time,” spoken by the great Orson Welles. Cameron Hughes has reversed that and says, “We’ll sell a big chunk of the wine before its time, because it’s what I do.” They did over 90,000 cases of wine in the last year. The website store has launched. Last year, the wine wasn’t even bottled. The earlier you buy in the cycle, the lower the price. They are tasting a Viognier that would sell for about $25 and Cameron Hughes sells it for $8. Since these wines are so young, consumers should cellar them for a while. Cameron agrees and says the need to keep them for a while is the tradeoff for getting a $25 bottle for $8.
California Wine Country's sponsor Bottle Barn is where Wine Country buys its wine. Bottle Barn can ship wine to most states.
Click the logo to visit Bottle Barn . com
Cameron Hughes grew up in Modesto, California and went to high school "with the Gallo kids" and his dad worked for Gallo then for The Wine Group. His first job was to collect and dump old out-of-code wine. He got a sales job in the wine business where he could build up his personal cellar. There used to be a 40% discount given among people in the wine trade, but that’s no longer done. Then he put a brand together and made a sale to Costco that started Cameron Hughes Lot 1. He sold that company and went into the high-end steak business, but was tempted by the wine business again and now has also started De Négoce.
They taste a Chardonnay that Dan Berger says, “…leans in the direction of Chablis” so if you don’t like fancy oak Chardonnay, this will be your taste. It will age for 10-12 years. Now they taste a different Chardonnay, in a different style. It’s a richer, more opulent style. It is 14.2% alcohol, from Russian River Valley. It retails for $95, from a world-famous winemaker. But De Négoce is able to sell it for $20. Dan Berger says that is outrageous. There is a character in the fruit, it is less tropical and more citrus. It leans to a lime-flavor and fresh grapefruit component. There is another Chardonnay to taste. It comes from high up the Mayacamas Mountains, in Sonoma County, about 2000 feet of elevation. Part of the De Négoce business is that Cameron Hughes can not disclose exactly where the wine came from or who made it.
Next is a Sonoma Mountain Cabernet, made by a husband-and-wife team. The vineyard is called Pickberry Vineyard on Sonoma Mountain. It is very young and needs time in the bottle. Dan says it’s hard to tell how long to keep it because it is so young you still get primary fermentation characteristics in it. He would put it away for at least a year. Cameron and Dan agree that the 2018 Vintage of Napa Cabs is a great year.
Next they taste a Spring Mountain Cabernet.
Tom Simoneau is in today with two guests from J Lohr Vineyards & Wines, Steve Peck, director of winemaking, and Kristen Barnhisel, director of white wines.
Kristen Barnhisel
Dan Berger has brought a 2010 Morgan Sauvignon Blanc from Monterey. Dan Morgan Lee makes this wine, he likes the distinctive flavors of valley floor, green pepper, cilantro, parsley, all the green flavors. Dan finds it fascinating and reminisent of 70s and 80s style wines. In ‘95 or ‘97 we started seeing the New Zealand wines which taught us to appreciate the herbaceous flavors. Tom Simoneau would never guess it is as old as it is. Dan explains that its primary characteristics are green, herbaceous. Sauvignon Blanc is not like Chardonnay in any way, which is floral and has citrussy componenets. This is herbaceous. Kristen likes the aroma profile, there is a little dried lime on it with the sweet herbs, very Monterey County. The underripe grapefruit flavors are also part of this.
Steve Peck tells how Jerry Lohr planted his first vineyard in the Monterey Arroyo Seco in 1972 and the original winery is in San Jose. They have dedicated wineries, one in Monterey where Kristen makes Chardonnay. They started making Paso Robles Cabernet, which has become the variety that has made their reputation.
Dan says that the acidity carries the J Lohr Chardonnay. There are flaors of creme brulée banana peach. They’re about 20 miles south of Monterey. They pick at night. They have about 9 different clones of Chardonnay, which gives it its complexity. Dan says the mid pallette acidity carries a bit of under-ripe pineapple and with time, maybe 3 years from now, this wine is going to explode. Tom is getting pepper and oak together, maybe for the first time ever. Steve Peck describes the Riverstone Chardonnay that they are tasting. It is all barrel aged and also barrel fermented. It’s about 25% new American oak and malolactic fermentation.
Steve Peck
Some American cooperages made “too much easy money” in the whiskey barrel business, to concentrate and specialize in wine barrels. There are French cooperages opeating in the US with American oak and Steve likes to use them. Dan agrees.
The next Chardonnay is a 2019 Arroyo Vista Chardonnay, their reserve Chardonnay and an ode to Burgundy, as Kristen describes it.
There is another winemaker, Brendan Wood, who looks after their red wines, he has been with J Lohr for 17 years.
Dan Berger tells the story of when Jerry Lohr brought several of his winemakers to Australia in 2006, for the Australian technical winemaking conference and they were the only Americans visible there. Dan agrees Jerry was dedicated to quality. He donated to UC Davis and to the winery at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo.
They are proud to be part of the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance and to put the authenticity stamp on every bottle.
The 2018 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon is next. It’s a blend of three ranches in higher elevation spots and cooler spots, for Cabernet. There is a bit of Petit Verdot in it. Tom Simoneau notices a little herbal quality in it. Steve describes the intersecting of the flavor profiles in his blends. He recommends a splash decant, to get air onto it.
Tom Simoneau is in today with two guests from J Lohr Vineyards & Wines, Steve Peck, director of winemaking, and Kristen Barnhisel, director of white wines.
Kristen Barnhisel
Dan Berger has brought a 2010 Morgan Sauvignon Blanc from Monterey. Dan Morgan Lee makes this wine, he likes the distinctive flavors of valley floor, green pepper, cilantro, parsley, all the green flavors. Dan finds it fascinating and reminisent of 70s and 80s style wines. In ‘95 or ‘97 we started seeing the New Zealand wines which taught us to appreciate the herbaceous flavors. Tom Simoneau would never guess it is as old as it is. Dan explains that its primary characteristics are green, herbaceous. Sauvignon Blanc is not like Chardonnay in any way, which is floral and has citrussy componenets. This is herbaceous. Kristen likes the aroma profile, there is a little dried lime on it with the sweet herbs, very Monterey County. The underripe grapefruit flavors are also part of this.
Steve Peck tells how Jerry Lohr planted his first vineyard in the Monterey Arroyo Seco in 1972 and the original winery is in San Jose. They have dedicated wineries, one in Monterey where Kristen makes Chardonnay. They started making Paso Robles Cabernet, which has become the variety that has made their reputation.
Dan says that the acidity carries the J Lohr Chardonnay. There are flaors of creme brulée banana peach. They’re about 20 miles south of Monterey. They pick at night. They have about 9 different clones of Chardonnay, which gives it its complexity. Dan says the mid pallette acidity carries a bit of under-ripe pineapple and with time, maybe 3 years from now, this wine is going to explode. Tom is getting pepper and oak together, maybe for the first time ever. Steve Peck describes the Riverstone Chardonnay that they are tasting. It is all barrel aged and also barrel fermented. It’s about 25% new American oak and malolactic fermentation.
Steve Peck
Some American cooperages made “too much easy money” in the whiskey barrel business, to concentrate and specialize in wine barrels. There are French cooperages opeating in the US with American oak and Steve likes to use them. Dan agrees.
The next Chardonnay is a 2019 Arroyo Vista Chardonnay, their reserve Chardonnay and an ode to Burgundy, as Kristen describes it.
There is another winemaker, Brendan Wood, who looks after their red wines, he has been with J Lohr for 17 years.
Dan Berger tells the story of when Jerry Lohr brought several of his winemakers to Australia in 2006, for the Australian technical winemaking conference and they were the only Americans visible there. Dan agrees Jerry was dedicated to quality. He donated to UC Davis and to the winery at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo.
They are proud to be part of the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance and to put the authenticity stamp on every bottle.
The 2018 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon is next. It’s a blend of three ranches in higher elevation spots and cooler spots, for Cabernet. There is a bit of Petit Verdot in it. Tom Simoneau notices a little herbal quality in it. Steve describes the intersecting of the flavor profiles in his blends. He recommends a splash decant, to get air onto it.
Ross Halleck of Halleck Vineyard joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. They begin tasting a 2019 Gewurtz from Halleck Vineyard which just won best of class in the North Coast wine competition. It won a gold medal and Dan Berger was on the judging panel. Ross Halleck likes Alsatian white wines, which he got to know while living in Kenya as a young man. The merchant class at that time was primarily Indian. He grew up on Italian food in Illinois but in Kenya, the restaurants were Indian and he discovered those flavors. They liked to serve Gewurtztraminer. Ross calls it a dry Gewurtztraminer, as it has no sugar. Amber fell in love with Gewurtztraminer when she found that it had floral fruit-forward flavors that the likes about red wine.
Dan Berger says this is a style of wine that is very hard to make. He says it is partially red, pink in the late season. As time goes by on the vine, the red skin color comes out, signifying tannins. That can make the wine bitter. Rick Davis make sure the grapes are not pressed heavily, so the juice is not bitter and keeping the alcohol as low as possible. "It's a very tricky process."
They also taste a 2017 Pinot Noir from Halleck Vineyard. This is the variety that Halleck is best known for. "It's always a fabulous experience..." Rick Davis, the winemaker, gets flavor and aromatics before color, and the wine is pale, that's the Russian River Valley style. Ross calls it garnet or ruby color, Dan Berger says it's perfect Burgundy color. It's not a "fruit bomb" wine. Dan Berger says it is really elegant, and that's what good quality Burgundy is about.
Next they have a 2017 Three Suns, which Ross calls their "handshake wine" which is priced such that it can be sold by the glass at restaurants. It brings people to their door. They sell exclusively to their wine club, and 10 or 15% of their product goes to selected restaurants in Sonoma County, San Francisco, New York and Chicago.
Ross Halleck talks about how difficult 2017 was, with the fires. They did not have smoke issues because the fires happened after harvest, and the vintage was ideal, like clockwork, with bud break in early March and 6 months on the vines, no issues with mold or mitigation. We now know that you've got to harvest these Russian River Valley Pinot Noir grapes early. Their crew did not show up on the morning they needed to harvest and so they had to do it themselves, which was very hard work.
This Pinot Noir comes to the pinnacle of quality, in Dan Berger's estimation.
Ross Halleck of Halleck Vineyard joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. They begin tasting a 2019 Gewurtz from Halleck Vineyard which just won best of class in the North Coast wine competition. It won a gold medal and Dan Berger was on the judging panel. Ross Halleck likes Alsatian white wines, which he got to know while living in Kenya as a young man. The merchant class at that time was primarily Indian. He grew up on Italian food in Illinois but in Kenya, the restaurants were Indian and he discovered those flavors. They liked to serve Gewurtztraminer. Ross calls it a dry Gewurtztraminer, as it has no sugar. Amber fell in love with Gewurtztraminer when she found that it had floral fruit-forward flavors that the likes about red wine.
Dan Berger says this is a style of wine that is very hard to make. He says it is partially red, pink in the late season. As time goes by on the vine, the red skin color comes out, signifying tannins. That can make the wine bitter. Rick Davis make sure the grapes are not pressed heavily, so the juice is not bitter and keeping the alcohol as low as possible. “It’s a very tricky process.”
They also taste a 2017 Pinot Noir from Halleck Vineyard. This is the variety that Halleck is best known for. “It’s always a fabulous experience…” Rick Davis, the winemaker, gets flavor and aromatics before color, and the wine is pale, that’s the Russian River Valley style. Ross calls it garnet or ruby color, Dan Berger says it’s perfect Burgundy color. It’s not a “fruit bomb” wine. Dan Berger says it is really elegant, and that’s what good quality Burgundy is about.
Next they have a 2017 Three Suns, which Ross calls their “handshake wine” which is priced such that it can be sold by the glass at restaurants. It brings people to their door. They sell exclusively to their wine club, and 10 or 15% of their product goes to selected restaurants in Sonoma County, San Francisco, New York and Chicago.
Ross Halleck talks about how difficult 2017 was, with the fires. They did not have smoke issues because the fires happened after harvest, and the vintage was ideal, like clockwork, with bud break in early March and 6 months on the vines, no issues with mold or mitigation. We now know that you’ve got to harvest these Russian River Valley Pinot Noir grapes early. Their crew did not show up on the morning they needed to harvest and so they had to do it themselves, which was very hard work.
This Pinot Noir comes to the pinnacle of quality, in Dan Berger’s estimation.
Alan Baker of Cartograph Wines returns to California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He has been on this show before, the last time was here, on January 8, 2020.
First, they taste a bottle from Dan Berger's cellar, a 2017 Chardonnay from New Zealand, which was fermented in a concrete egg. It’s the first one made in New Zealand ever, made by a master concrete expert. With the shape of the egg, the fermentation forces the liquid to rotate itself. You don’t need human intervention to mix it. It is an unusual wine. It is very Bergundian, has an earthy funk, and a tropical fruit note, a bit like pineapple. It comes from Tony Bish Wines in New Zealand. It has 13.5% alcohol. It comes from Hawk’s Bay, a cooler region on the North Bay, known for its Cabernet Sauvignon.
They launched the Cartograph brand in 2010 with a Pinot Noir and a dry Gewurtztraminier. They specialize in Pinot Noir and dry Riesling. They do a little rose and sparkling once in a while. Alan Baker worked for Minnesota Public Radio as a producer and recording engineer. He followed his interest out here in 2005, got a foothold here working and moved to California. He has gone to UC Davis to take some classes but doesn’t have an enology degree.
They taste a 2019 Riesling from a vineyard near Marin county, where it’s cold and wet. Dan Berger says it's one of the best Rieslings he has ever tasted. It's about 12.4% alcohol. This wine has "sensational" aromatics, from the long hang time on the fruit. There is a trace of apple, but like a jazz apple, spicier than the usual apple. This Riesling has a trace of sugar and a trace of acidity and both are playing against each other at once, back and forth. Dan says that Riesling reflects its region better than any other white wine grape. It's nice and dry but offset by a tiny trace of sugar. Alan says that's the joy of Riesling. Across the sweetness spectrum, there is still the zip of acid and dryness.
The Cartograph logo is a stylized globe, with five points on the globe that are important to them and their journey with wine. Cartograph is doing personal virtual tastings with wine club members.
Dan Berger says that the Bottle Barn Riesling selection is excellent.
Dan and Alan love Riesling and can’t stop singing its praises. Alan: "It's just such a magical grape. It's the greatest wine grape on the planet." Dan says he has some 30- and 35-year-old bottles of Riesling. The first plantings of grapes in Germany were done by the Romans but most of the grape varieties had trouble with the climate. After hundreds of years, they found that the Riesling was the one that did the best with the least amount of effort. Dan has been on Riesling vineyard properties in Germany that are so steep that you need to hold on to a steel cable to walk around. Steve asks, what about the sweet Rieslings? Alan says the sweetness is a stylistic decision but also depends on your weather, if it’s warm, you will have to stop the fermentation short, so it’s not too strong. Dan says there is almost no limit to how long you can age a good Riesling, which can last 10 or 15 years.
Cartograph Wines does outdoor tastings, roughly at 11, 1 and 3. See the site for details.
Now they taste a Pinot Noir. The knock on domestic Pinot Noir is that it doesn’t age. But Alan says if you make it properly, you may get a good result with age. This is silky, flavors of roasted beets, a taste of pomegranate in the nose, and a spice component like ripe cherries. At first it was fruity. As it ages it has shifted toward truffle and mushroom. Later in its aging it will shift back to its honeysuckle stage. Dan says once it has had two hours of air, it won’t get any better with more time before you drink it.
They taste a Pinot Noir called Leonardo Julio. Julio (“Giulio” in Italian) is a Gallo, his grandfather is Leonardo. This is a 2013 sparkling from that vineyard.
There is also a 2019 North Coast Rosé of Pinot Noir.
Alan Baker of Cartograph Wines returns to California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He has been on this show before, the last time was here, on January 8, 2020.
First, they taste a bottle from Dan Berger’s cellar, a 2017 Chardonnay from New Zealand, which was fermented in a concrete egg. It’s the first one made in New Zealand ever, made by a master concrete expert. With the shape of the egg, the fermentation forces the liquid to rotate itself. You don’t need human intervention to mix it. It is an unusual wine. It is very Bergundian, has an earthy funk, and a tropical fruit note, a bit like pineapple. It comes from Tony Bish Wines in New Zealand. It has 13.5% alcohol. It comes from Hawk’s Bay, a cooler region on the North Bay, known for its Cabernet Sauvignon.
They launched the Cartograph brand in 2010 with a Pinot Noir and a dry Gewurtztraminier. They specialize in Pinot Noir and dry Riesling. They do a little rose and sparkling once in a while. Alan Baker worked for Minnesota Public Radio as a producer and recording engineer. He followed his interest out here in 2005, got a foothold here working and moved to California. He has gone to UC Davis to take some classes but doesn’t have an enology degree.
They taste a 2019 Riesling from a vineyard near Marin county, where it’s cold and wet. Dan Berger says it’s one of the best Rieslings he has ever tasted. It’s about 12.4% alcohol. This wine has “sensational” aromatics, from the long hang time on the fruit. There is a trace of apple, but like a jazz apple, spicier than the usual apple. This Riesling has a trace of sugar and a trace of acidity and both are playing against each other at once, back and forth. Dan says that Riesling reflects its region better than any other white wine grape. It’s nice and dry but offset by a tiny trace of sugar. Alan says that’s the joy of Riesling. Across the sweetness spectrum, there is still the zip of acid and dryness.
The Cartograph logo is a stylized globe, with five points on the globe that are important to them and their journey with wine. Cartograph is doing personal virtual tastings with wine club members.
Dan Berger says that the Bottle Barn Riesling selection is excellent.
Dan and Alan love Riesling and can’t stop singing its praises. Alan: “It’s just such a magical grape. It’s the greatest wine grape on the planet.” Dan says he has some 30- and 35-year-old bottles of Riesling. The first plantings of grapes in Germany were done by the Romans but most of the grape varieties had trouble with the climate. After hundreds of years, they found that the Riesling was the one that did the best with the least amount of effort. Dan has been on Riesling vineyard properties in Germany that are so steep that you need to hold on to a steel cable to walk around. Steve asks, what about the sweet Rieslings? Alan says the sweetness is a stylistic decision but also depends on your weather, if it’s warm, you will have to stop the fermentation short, so it’s not too strong. Dan says there is almost no limit to how long you can age a good Riesling, which can last 10 or 15 years.
Cartograph Wines does outdoor tastings, roughly at 11, 1 and 3. See the site for details.
Now they taste a Pinot Noir. The knock on domestic Pinot Noir is that it doesn’t age. But Alan says if you make it properly, you may get a good result with age. This is silky, flavors of roasted beets, a taste of pomegranate in the nose, and a spice component like ripe cherries. At first it was fruity. As it ages it has shifted toward truffle and mushroom. Later in its aging it will shift back to its honeysuckle stage. Dan says once it has had two hours of air, it won’t get any better with more time before you drink it.
They taste a Pinot Noir called Leonardo Julio. Julio (“Giulio” in Italian) is a Gallo, his grandfather is Leonardo. This is a 2013 sparkling from that vineyard.
There is also a 2019 North Coast Rosé of Pinot Noir. It has a tiny hit of salmon color only. Alan is also good at using Oregon fruit, such as the Brooks Rieslings that age for 20 years.
A 2018 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir blend is the next tasting. It is on their tasting menu at the winery. The vineyard is near the other famous Russian River Valley vineyards like Williams-Selyem and Rocchioli.
If you live between Petaluma and Cloverdale, they will bring your wine to you.
Dan says if you’re making Riesling and Pinot Noir, it shows passion, more than most other varieties. “What Alan is doing is quite commendable and the wines are exemplary. The quality is there and the price is fair.”
Mitch Cosentino from pureCru Wines is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. The first pureCru vintage was in 2006, but he started Cosentino winery in 1980. They went public, which he says he didn’t enjoy, and he left it in 2010. They don’t have a tasting room at the moment. He considers pureCru “a winemaker’s wine project.”
Mitch Cosentino
Before we go on with Mitch, Dan Berger has brought a “cellar dweller” from Dan’s wine cellar. It’s a 2014 Black Kite Chardonnay from the north coast, made by Jeff Gaffner, who has been on the show before and will be again soon. It’s made in the European style and at seven years old, it’s ideal. The wine has a bit of burnt wood and tropical fruit flavors in it.
Mitch Cosentino’s first wine tasted today is a 2017 Chardonnay, Orchard Avenue in the Oak Knoll district of Napa. Dan and Mitch agree that it is one of the most prestigious Chardonnay locations in California. Mitch has been making this since the early to mid 90s. It is in a very European style, including 14 months in barrels. They are special barrels with three woods, that only he and his consulting clients use. “The barrels on all these wines are the black velvet in the jewelry store. It’s to set off the fruit, the balance and the character.” This Chardonnay would go with oysters, they think, but Dan Berger thinks Oysters Rockefeller would be best.
He has no tasting room right now and all his wine is sold through the wine club at the website.
From 1980 to 1990, Mitch Cosentino had the second largest winery in Modesto. There were only two; the other one was Gallo.
Bottle Barn is open again for in-store shopping, from 10am-6pm. Bottle Barn can ship wine to most states.
Mitch Cosentino says his cellar is more than 10,000 bottles. He lost 800 in the 2014 earthquake, including wines from all over the world.
In about 2 weeks, the 2019 German Rieslings are coming in. It’s one of the best years ever for German wines.
Now they open a 2018 Pinot Noir from Carneros. It’s the first wine he releases from the vintage. It’s the only red that gets less than 3 years in barrels. It’s silky. They stir the lees on Chardonnay for about 10 months, and they do it also with Pinot Noir. What he gets from that is a kind of leafyness and faint dried herb compnent. Dan: “I would call this exotic.”
Mitch says that as a wine consumer and fan, I like spice, aromatics and texture. He likes it with an oregano based sauce. This is designed for rare roast beef, but not a steak. It’s elegant but flavorful with wonderful acidity.
Nick’s Cove in Marin is open for takeout and has lots of outside space for patrons to relax and enjoy their food. “Dining at Nick’s is pure California joy.”
Mitch has been making Cabernet Franc since 1985. For a long time he was the only one. He has made over 50 bottlings over the years for different wineries. Most winemakers use Cabernet Franc as a blending wine. It’s the genetic parent, along with Sauvignon Blanc, of Cabernet Sauvignon. Clove is the most accurate spice tracer for Cabernet Franc. You will get more red cherry component from Cabernet Franc.
Dan says it has the structure of Pinot Noir, made with punch down, rather than pump over. They also do whole berry, mentions Mitch. It’s a 2016 but it’s very young, for him. The 2014 is released, he did not do a 2015 and the 2016 will be released in April 2021. Dan says to decant it for 2 hours.
Lamb would go well with it, or anything gamey. It’s great with duck.
Finally they taste the 2015 pureCos, the wine that started everything. This wine is actually a Meritage plus one, it’s Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and a little bit of Sangiovese.
The Sangiovese gives it a Jolly Rancher Red Cherry component. That’s the only time Jolly Rancher has come up in a wine tasting, but Mitch does taste a pomegranate. This wine could work with blackened salmon.
The first vintage was 2006, and the price is the same despite that the grape prices have more than doubled. Cabernet Franc is more expensive than Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa Valley, $8,000/ton.
There is one more white wine to taste, to finish. It is a white Meritage wine, technically. It’s called Purity. He has been making this since 1982. It’s based on Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Obreon Blanc is the grape, it’s a white Bordeaux style wine. They are rare and people don’t know it very much. “Semillon ages like forever,” says Dan Berger. nicks
Mitch Cosentino from pureCru Wines is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. The first pureCru vintage was in 2006, but he started Cosentino winery in 1980. They went public, which he says he didn’t enjoy, and he left it in 2010. They don’t have a tasting room at the moment. He considers pureCru “a winemaker’s wine project.”
Mitch Cosentino
Before we go on with Mitch, Dan Berger has brought a “cellar dweller” from Dan’s wine cellar. It’s a 2014 Black Kite Chardonnay from the north coast, made by Jeff Gaffner, who has been on the show before and will be again soon. It’s made in the European style and at seven years old, it’s ideal. The wine has a bit of burnt wood and tropical fruit flavors in it.
Mitch Cosentino’s first wine tasted today is a 2017 Chardonnay, Orchard Avenue in the Oak Knoll district of Napa. Dan and Mitch agree that it is one of the most prestigious Chardonnay locations in California. Mitch has been making this since the early to mid 90s. It is in a very European style, including 14 months in barrels. They are special barrels with three woods, that only he and his consulting clients use. “The barrels on all these wines are the black velvet in the jewelry store. It’s to set off the fruit, the balance and the character.” This Chardonnay would go with oysters, they think, but Dan Berger thinks Oysters Rockefeller would be best.
He has no tasting room right now and all his wine is sold through the wine club at the website.
From 1980 to 1990, Mitch Cosentino had the second largest winery in Modesto. There were only two; the other one was Gallo.
Bottle Barn is open again for in-store shopping, from 10am-6pm. Bottle Barn can ship wine to most states.
Mitch Cosentino says his cellar is more than 10,000 bottles. He lost 800 in the 2014 earthquake, including wines from all over the world.
In about 2 weeks, the 2019 German Rieslings are coming in. It’s one of the best years ever for German wines.
Now they open a 2018 Pinot Noir from Carneros. It’s the first wine he releases from the vintage. It’s the only red that gets less than 3 years in barrels. It’s silky. They stir the lees on Chardonnay for about 10 months, and they do it also with Pinot Noir. What he gets from that is a kind of leafyness and faint dried herb compnent. Dan: “I would call this exotic.”
Mitch says that as a wine consumer and fan, I like spice, aromatics and texture. He likes it with an oregano based sauce. This is designed for rare roast beef, but not a steak. It’s elegant but flavorful with wonderful acidity.
Nick’s Cove in Marin is open for takeout and has lots of outside space for patrons to relax and enjoy their food. "Dining at Nick's is pure California joy."
Mitch has been making Cabernet Franc since 1985. For a long time he was the only one. He has made over 50 bottlings over the years for different wineries. Most winemakers use Cabernet Franc as a blending wine. It’s the genetic parent, along with Sauvignon Blanc, of Cabernet Sauvignon. Clove is the most accurate spice tracer for Cabernet Franc. You will get more red cherry component from Cabernet Franc.
Dan says it has the structure of Pinot Noir, made with punch down, rather than pump over. They also do whole berry, mentions Mitch. It’s a 2016 but it’s very young, for him. The 2014 is released, he did not do a 2015 and the 2016 will be released in April 2021. Dan says to decant it for 2 hours.
Lamb would go well with it, or anything gamey. It’s great with duck.
Finally they taste the 2015 pureCos, the wine that started everything. This wine is actually a Meritage plus one, it’s Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and a little bit of Sangiovese.
The Sangiovese gives it a Jolly Rancher Red Cherry component. That’s the only time Jolly Rancher has come up in a wine tasting, but Mitch does taste a pomegranate. This wine could work with blackened salmon.
The first vintage was 2006,
Cody Rasmussen from Desire Lines Wine Company and Megan Cline of Gust Wines are both in the studio today for California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. They are here to celebrate the 3rd anniversary of the Petaluma Gap AVA on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn is also in the studio today. Here is the website of the Petaluma Gap Winegrowers Alliance.
The first wine of the show this week is a 2011 Sauvignon Blanc from Quivira Wine in Dry Creek Valley, from Dan Berger’s person cellar. It is spectacular. 2011 was a cold year and the wine has had perfect storage in Dan’s cellar. Lemongrass, a trace of olive and under-ripe kiwi. “This wine’s got everything going for it,” says Dan.
Panorama of Petaluma Gap
In Dan Berger’s opinion, the Petaluma Gap is destined to produce great Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Chardonnays that he is seeing is already displaying aromatics that are identifiable.
The Petaluma Gap AVA is three years old. The wind is what defines it. The mountains run east-west and the wind comes in from the ocean and extends the growing season, so the fruit is hanging longer but it maintains acidity because of the early morning fog that comes in. The Chardonnays tend to be difficult to make in large quantities. They taste a 2018 Chardonnay from Gust wines.
Gust was born in 2017. Megan and his sister are part of the second generation of Cline Family Cellars, which is known for big reds like Zinfandel but they were also always drawn to the cooler climate wines. She is lucky because her father planted in Petaluma Gap in the mid-1990s. It is all organically farmed. They saw the potential to focus on the best blocks and the best rows in the vineyards, to really show off the Petaluma Gap. Tom Gendall is their winemaker. Dan likes that this Chardonnay is subtle and not ostentatious. It has creamy richness but it is understated. This Chardonnay comes from two of their vineyards, Catapult and Diamond Pile, two sites that are one closer to the coast and one more inland. The winds swirl here, which means that the wind hits both sides of the leaves, which in turn imparts more of this AVA’s wind driven character.
Cody Rasmussen explains that Desire Lines makes wine from different vineyards. Griffin’s Lair in Petaluma Gap was one of the first vineyards they worked with. Cody explains the way the vines react to the wind. They will stop transpiration, they stop photosynthetic ripening in response to the wind, which slows things down, keeps the acid and gives you small canopies and small berries.
Cline has been around since 1982, they moved to Sonoma in 1989. Megan has been working with her family winery for 6 years. They grow a little Sangiovese for Jacuzzi family vineyard, a little Pinot Gris and some Viognier. They love their Rhone varieties. They also make olive oil.
Gust Wines and Desire Lines wines are both available at Bottle Barn, as well as the Cline wines, of course. Bottle Barn is open again for in-store shopping, from 10am-6pm. Bottle Barn can ship wine to most states.
In the mid-1990s, the Petaluma Gap was considered too cold for vines, but Fred Cline had had success in the colder Carneros area, and so he planted several varieties in Petaluma Gap.
Gust Wines does not have a tasting room yet, but one is in the works. She suggests people follow Petaluma Gap on Instagram, for news and promotional events.
They taste a 2018 Gust Wines Syrah, which Dan Berger says is almost feral, or wild, in a very positive way. Megan tastes wild herbs. Dan compares it to walking in a forest after rainfall. These Syrah grapes are some of the last grapes that they pick. It takes more time to ripen. Dan says that the winemaker has to be extremely careful that it does not get too much or too little air.
There is also some Cabernet Sauvignon in Petaluma Gap. That usually needs a warmer climate. This fruit comes from a moutain site in the Petaluma ...
Cody Rasmussen from Desire Lines Wine Company and Megan Cline of Gust Wines are both in the studio today for California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. They are here to celebrate the 3rd anniversary of the Petaluma Gap AVA on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn is also in the studio today. Here is the website of the Petaluma Gap Winegrowers Alliance.
The first wine of the show this week is a 2011 Sauvignon Blanc from Quivira Wine in Dry Creek Valley, from Dan Berger’s person cellar. It is spectacular. 2011 was a cold year and the wine has had perfect storage in Dan’s cellar. Lemongrass, a trace of olive and under-ripe kiwi. “This wine’s got everything going for it,” says Dan.
Panorama of Petaluma Gap
In Dan Berger’s opinion, the Petaluma Gap is destined to produce great Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Chardonnays that he is seeing is already displaying aromatics that are identifiable.
The Petaluma Gap AVA is three years old. The wind is what defines it. The mountains run east-west and the wind comes in from the ocean and extends the growing season, so the fruit is hanging longer but it maintains acidity because of the early morning fog that comes in. The Chardonnays tend to be difficult to make in large quantities. They taste a 2018 Chardonnay from Gust wines.
Gust was born in 2017. Megan and his sister are part of the second generation of Cline Family Cellars, which is known for big reds like Zinfandel but they were also always drawn to the cooler climate wines. She is lucky because her father planted in Petaluma Gap in the mid-1990s. It is all organically farmed. They saw the potential to focus on the best blocks and the best rows in the vineyards, to really show off the Petaluma Gap. Tom Gendall is their winemaker. Dan likes that this Chardonnay is subtle and not ostentatious. It has creamy richness but it is understated. This Chardonnay comes from two of their vineyards, Catapult and Diamond Pile, two sites that are one closer to the coast and one more inland. The winds swirl here, which means that the wind hits both sides of the leaves, which in turn imparts more of this AVA’s wind driven character.
Cody Rasmussen explains that Desire Lines makes wine from different vineyards. Griffin’s Lair in Petaluma Gap was one of the first vineyards they worked with. Cody explains the way the vines react to the wind. They will stop transpiration, they stop photosynthetic ripening in response to the wind, which slows things down, keeps the acid and gives you small canopies and small berries.
Cline has been around since 1982, they moved to Sonoma in 1989. Megan has been working with her family winery for 6 years. They grow a little Sangiovese for Jacuzzi family vineyard, a little Pinot Gris and some Viognier. They love their Rhone varieties. They also make olive oil.
Gust Wines and Desire Lines wines are both available at Bottle Barn, as well as the Cline wines, of course. Bottle Barn is open again for in-store shopping, from 10am-6pm. Bottle Barn can ship wine to most states.
In the mid-1990s, the Petaluma Gap was considered too cold for vines, but Fred Cline had had success in the colder Carneros area, and so he planted several varieties in Petaluma Gap.
Gust Wines does not have a tasting room yet, but one is in the works. She suggests people follow Petaluma Gap on Instagram, for news and promotional events.
They taste a 2018 Gust Wines Syrah, which Dan Berger says is almost feral, or wild, in a very positive way. Megan tastes wild herbs. Dan compares it to walking in a forest after rainfall. These Syrah grapes are some of the last grapes that they pick. It takes more time to ripen. Dan says that the winemaker has to be extremely careful that it does not get too much or too little air.
There is also some Cabernet Sauvignon in Petaluma Gap. That usually needs a warmer climate. This fruit comes from a moutain site in the Petaluma Gap. It’s above the marine layer so it gets time to ripen in the mornings. They are tasting a 2019 cabernet. Dan says the aromatics remind him of 1970s and ‘80s Napa Valley Cab flavors. It’s very exotic and too young to drink right now. It’s leafy and red-fruited, says Cody. The tannins are soft, says Barry.
Pete Foppiano is sitting in for Steve Jaxon today on California Wine Country, but Dan Berger is in the studio as usual and his guest is Haley Jackson Hartford Murray from Hartford Family Winery. Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn is also in today.
The Hartford was established as a winery by Jess Jackson in 1994. It is in Forestville in a remote area of Russian River Valley. Dan calls it the most ideal winery on the planet because they have every gadget for making great Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. A lot of people don’t know that it is part of the Jackson family of wines.
Her grandfather is Jess Jackson who approached her parents in 1994 with the idea of making wine in Russian River Valley, mostly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and at first they also had some old vine Zinfandel.
Dan Berger’s cellar dweller bottle today is a Merlot from Freemark Abbey 2008, this is a Jackson Family affiliated winery. The winemaker is Ted Edwards, Dan has known him for 40 years. Ted is great at getting the best of his varietals. Dan says a good quality Merlot deserves to have 5-7 years and this one has close to 13 years old yet it is just beginning to show. This illustrates the greatness of Merlot and of Freemark Abbey.
Dan considers Hartford to be one of the greatest wineries in Sonoma County that nobody has ever heard of. Barry Herbst says that Bottle Barn cutomers sure do know it. Pete says it’s a “hidden gem” among wineries.
Today they will taste some of Hartford’s single vineyard wines, starting with the Chardonnay. They do also make some Russian River Valley blends, which they have more of, for retail sale in places like Bottle Barn.
The majority of their 30 single vineyard wines are their own estate, so they farm them and manage them. They also have some neighbors who provide fruit to them. This came from Dutton Ranch. Most of them have only a few hundred cases made. The location is cool, the fog rolls in first and stays low. The wine has floral delicacy. Dan is getting pineapple and guava, plus a mystery floral flavor, maybe peach or nectarine, towards honeysuckle and jasmine. Here the acid level may be higher than usual, which may be driven by climate change.
Dan Berger on Climate Change
“We are reaching a point now in California where global climate change is becoming an issue and the winemakers are really solving the problem. I think they’re doing a brilliant job. All over California we’re finding Chardonnay to be better because it’s more savory. This wine is pretty tart.”
Pete asks what steps have been taken to address climate issues. Dan says harvest date is critical. If you have to vary your harvest date and adjust that year to year. Also, you have to do your work in the vineyard early in the season. You can’t allow the crop level to get too large or too small. That means from the moment you’re pruning, late January early February, you’re making sure that what’s on the vine is going to give you the right amount of fruit in 7 months. Keep that in balance and the wine will be balanced.
Haley points out that all of their vineyards and wineries are certified sustainable, meaning that they meet specific criteria to use less water, conserve as much as possible, to monitor soil health, biodiversity in the vineyards. They want the vineyards to be healthy ecosystems. They were lucky in the recent fires, although the fire was very close.
These special single vineyard wines are available through the Hartford website. The other line of Russian River Valley blends (Chard and Pinot Noir) are at Bottle Barn.
“This Chardonnay has got real personality.” It’s the Seascape Vineyard Chardonnay. The site is right on the ridge, and it gets the first fog. It has flavors of lemon, lime and citrus. Tasting from the barrels, “you’re in Margaritaville.”
Dan Berger describes other changes that climate change has brought to the wine industry. It is not a problem for people who are sensitive to growing grapes in cooler regions ...
Pete Foppiano is sitting in for Steve Jaxon today on California Wine Country, but Dan Berger is in the studio as usual and his guest is Haley Jackson Hartford Murray from Hartford Family Winery. Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn is also in today.
The Hartford was established as a winery by Jess Jackson in 1994. It is in Forestville in a remote area of Russian River Valley. Dan calls it the most ideal winery on the planet because they have every gadget for making great Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. A lot of people don’t know that it is part of the Jackson family of wines.
Her grandfather is Jess Jackson who approached her parents in 1994 with the idea of making wine in Russian River Valley, mostly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and at first they also had some old vine Zinfandel.
Dan Berger’s cellar dweller bottle today is a Merlot from Freemark Abbey 2008, this is a Jackson Family affiliated winery. The winemaker is Ted Edwards, Dan has known him for 40 years. Ted is great at getting the best of his varietals. Dan says a good quality Merlot deserves to have 5-7 years and this one has close to 13 years old yet it is just beginning to show. This illustrates the greatness of Merlot and of Freemark Abbey.
Dan considers Hartford to be one of the greatest wineries in Sonoma County that nobody has ever heard of. Barry Herbst says that Bottle Barn cutomers sure do know it. Pete says it’s a “hidden gem” among wineries.
Today they will taste some of Hartford’s single vineyard wines, starting with the Chardonnay. They do also make some Russian River Valley blends, which they have more of, for retail sale in places like Bottle Barn.
The majority of their 30 single vineyard wines are their own estate, so they farm them and manage them. They also have some neighbors who provide fruit to them. This came from Dutton Ranch. Most of them have only a few hundred cases made. The location is cool, the fog rolls in first and stays low. The wine has floral delicacy. Dan is getting pineapple and guava, plus a mystery floral flavor, maybe peach or nectarine, towards honeysuckle and jasmine. Here the acid level may be higher than usual, which may be driven by climate change.
Dan Berger on Climate Change
“We are reaching a point now in California where global climate change is becoming an issue and the winemakers are really solving the problem. I think they’re doing a brilliant job. All over California we’re finding Chardonnay to be better because it’s more savory. This wine is pretty tart.”
Pete asks what steps have been taken to address climate issues. Dan says harvest date is critical. If you have to vary your harvest date and adjust that year to year. Also, you have to do your work in the vineyard early in the season. You can’t allow the crop level to get too large or too small. That means from the moment you’re pruning, late January early February, you’re making sure that what’s on the vine is going to give you the right amount of fruit in 7 months. Keep that in balance and the wine will be balanced.
Haley points out that all of their vineyards and wineries are certified sustainable, meaning that they meet specific criteria to use less water, conserve as much as possible, to monitor soil health, biodiversity in the vineyards. They want the vineyards to be healthy ecosystems. They were lucky in the recent fires, although the fire was very close.
These special single vineyard wines are available through the Hartford website. The other line of Russian River Valley blends (Chard and Pinot Noir) are at Bottle Barn.
“This Chardonnay has got real personality.” It’s the Seascape Vineyard Chardonnay. The site is right on the ridge, and it gets the first fog. It has flavors of lemon, lime and citrus. Tasting from the barrels, “you’re in Margaritaville.”
Dan Berger describes other changes that climate change has brought to the wine industry. It is not a problem for people who are sensitive to growing grapes in cooler regions for fine wine, because cold is your friend. In cooler regions, if you know your vines, you know exactly where they’re headed and you can manage your harvest time and adjust to conditions. Some people growing cool climate wines in areas that are getting hotter, such as Cabernet vineyards in Paso Robles, may be in trouble in 10 years when temperatures get too high.
They taste the Marin County Pinot Noir. It was an old dairy farm and they planted vines in the higher, rockier areas. Dan and Barry call it Burgundian and detect a trace of thyme, and Haley also tastes blackberries.
California Wine Country today has Tom Simoneau in the studio with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, to present his favorite wines of 2020. At the end of this episode they speak with Joy Sterling, from Iron Horse Winery, which is Tom Simoneau’s 2020 Winery of the Year. Here are the wines presented by Tom and Steve. Today’s page was written by Tom Simoneau. He can be reached at tom@simoneauvineyards.com.
Best Whites Sparkling Wine:
Iron Horse Vineyards 2016 Ocean Reserve Blanc de Blancs, Green Valley, $55.
This sparkling wine is a limited edition bottling. Iron Horse gives $4 a bottle to National Geographic’s Ocean Initiative. Crisp, delicate, nice and dry. This 100% Chardonnay Sparkler is just that “sparkling” bubbles with a cause. ironhorsevineyards.com
Chardonnay:
Clos Pegase 2018 Carneros Napa Valley, Mitsuko’s Vineyard, Estate Grown, $30.
From this iconic Napa Valley winery, this wine with its classic cool region Chardonnay flavors of peach, apple, and pear shows how this varietal grown in the right place can produce an almost perfect wine. The vineyard, 365 acres in size, takes its name from founder Jan Shrem’s late wife. clospegase.com
Sauvignon Blanc:
J. Lohr Estates 2019 Flume Crossing, Arroyo Seco, Monterey, $14.
The blend is entirely from the Sauvignon Musque Clone picked over a month’s time at different ripeness levels. Early picks give bright acidity and key lime flavors while more ripeness gives grapefruit and passion fruit. And the final pick achieves mango and fig notes, complex and delicious. Another terrific release from J. Lohr, one of California’s finest. jlohr.com
Off Dry White:
Dry Creek Vineyard 2019 Dry Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg, $16.
Congratulations to founder Dave Stare and his family for continuing to produce Chenin Blanc while other wineries gave it the Sideways treatment (ie. – Anything but Merlot.) This slightly sweet wine is perfect as a summer sipper showing bright mouth feel, all orange blossom and candied lemon. drycreekvineyard.com
Alternative White:
Priest Ranch Wines 2018 Grenache Blanc, Napa Valley, Estate Grown, $22.
Not familiar with Grenache Blanc? It’s an aromatic white wine. Think biting into a ripe white peach and as the juice runs down your chin, lick it all up. The taste is bracing, yet balanced. It’s intoxicating! The Priest Ranch is now part of the 1,615 acre Somerston Estate of which 215 acres is planted to grapes. Also available in 375ml cans – 6 packs $60. priestranchwines.com
Best Value White:
Inman 2019 Vin Soave, DOC Classico, $16.
This product of Italy’s Veneto region is 100% Garganega. How many new friends have you made this year? Well, I say this Vin Soave could be your new best friend. The flavors are a cross between Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc with a hint of Viognier, a crowd pleaser. dallaterra.com
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Most Fun Wine:
Prosecco by Korbel, D.O.C. Sparkling Wine Product of Italy, 187 ml bottles, $5.25.
Korbel, always a trend setter, now has a full line of mini-bottles. Pop the top (unscrew), insert a straw, and you’re good to go. Prosecco is a screaming category of sparkling wine accounting for $1 in every $5 spent. Prosecco facts: made in the Charmat process, tank fermented from the Glera grape grown in the Veneto in North Eastern Italy. korbel.com
Rosé:
Inman Family 2019 Endless Crush, Rosé of Pinot Noir, OGV (Olivet Grange Vineyard), Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, $38.
The word delicate defines this wine. From its delicate pink color to its delicate pink kiss on your palate. All watermelon and wild strawberry… delicate and delicious. Kathleen Inman is a master winemaker who happens to be a woman. inmanfamilywines.com
Sweet Wine:
Tenuta di Capezzana Vin Santo di Carmignano, D.O.C. Riserva, 375 ml bottle, $70.
Among the oldest wine estates in Tuscany, Capezzana has been producing wine since 804 A.D. This Carmignano is made from mainly Trebbiano. The grapes are dried for several months, then fermented and aged for more than five years in wooden casks. It is considered one of the best sweet wines in the world. Sherry in color, nutty with candied apricots in taste. The finish is never ending. If you can find it, buy it. You’ll be thanking me. dallaterra.com
Book of the YearFrench Wine, A History by Rod Phillips, University of California Press. From the Greeks and Romans, the Black Death, the Classification of 1855, Phylloxera, and two world wars, do you need all this information? If you’re a wine guy… you do!
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Best Reds Cabernet Sauvignon:
Jordan Vineyard and Winery 2016 Alexander Valley, $58.
Goodbye Rob Davis, hello Maggie Kruse. With the retirement of Jordan’s original and only winemaker, Rob Davis, Maggie Kruse is now in charge. You might wonder, with all the success Jordan has had over the years, what a new winemaker might bring. No worries, the baton has been successfully passed. With one taste of this ’16 masterpiece, any concerns will be dismissed. Mocha, cherry, and spice – delicious. A trip to Jordan is highly recommended. jordanwinery.com
Zinfandel:
J. Rickards Winery, 2018 North Coast, La Cosecha, Three Valley Blend, $32.
What makes a cult winery a cult winery? A hot shot winemaker, vineyard sources, awards? I’ve interviewed many cult winery owners and most will say they got lucky. Owners Jim and Eliza Rickards check all the boxes. They just need a little luck, and then, you’ll see their picture on the cover of Wine Spectator. This juicy and zesty Zinfandel is just one part of their story. Stop by J. Rickards Winery in Cloverdale and join the wine club while you can. jrwinery.com
Merlot:
Girard Winery 2017 Napa Valley, $50.
With Sideways now in the rearview mirror Merlot is on the comeback kid trail and this small lot beauty is one of the reasons why. This 100% Merlot from Girard’s Yountville Vineyard is a red raspberry and plum tart beauty. Available only at the new winery on Dunaweal Lane in Calistoga or the tasting room in Yountville. This Merlot is a good reason to stop by and tell’em The Wine Guy sent you. girardwinery.com
Rhone Style Red:Longboard Vineyards 2017 Carignan, Vincenzo Vineyard, Mendocino County, $56.
According to the Rhone Rangers more gallons of Carignan are produced on this planet every year than any other wine. And virtually none of it is bottled under that name. You’ll find it in red blends. A big, brooding red with lavender and tarragon, tar and earthy flavors screaming Carignan. From 80 year old vines. longboardvineyards.com
Blended Red:
Gamble Family Vineyards 2016 Paramount Red Wine, Napa Valley, $90.
From third generation Napa farmer Tom Gamble. This wine was grown to be a Meritage with vineyard sources from Oakville, Yountville, Mt. Veeder, and Rutherford. Did I say all star vineyards? Mouth feel and texture define this wine. As it says on the bottle, grown, harvested, and slowly made into wine by Gamble Family Vineyards. gamblefamilyvineyards.com
Best Buy Red:
Toad Hollow Vineyards 2017 Merlot, Sonoma County, Richard McDowell’s Selection, $15.99.
Toad Hollow Vineyards’ fans know when they reach for a bottle, they’ll always get big bang for their buck. A no nonsense wine showing forward fruit all cranberry, blueberry, and cherry. Often discounted. toadhollow.com
Pinot Noir:
Cuvaison Estate Wines 2018 Spire, Napa Valley, Los Carneros, $60.
What makes a great wine? Vineyard sites and experience and this wine fits the bill. Grown on Cuvaison’s finest hillside and hilltop blocks, hence the name Spire. Made by longtime winemaker Steve Rogstad, 2002 was his first vintage at Cuvaison. With all the buzz about Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley, don’t forget Los Carneros wrote the book on cool region Pinot Noir. The Carneros Quality Alliance paved the way for California Appellation groups. This Pinot is savory and fruity. Its complexities will develop even more with time in the bottle – exceptional! cuvaison.com
Luxury Wine:
Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery 2017 Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon, $85.
Named after the fragrant Linden trees that surrounded a gazebo on the estate in the late 1800’s, it is now the second label for Spottswoode. Did I say second label? Well if any winery, other than Spottswoode, made this wine, it would be their Flagship, showing dark berry notes, all lilac and thyme with a ghost of oak and a mouth feel without rival. Sign up to get on their list at spottswoode.com
Winery of the Year:
Iron Horse Vineyards located in the heart of Green Valley. Iron Horse is well known for its sparkling wine. But, Iron Horse is more than a sparkling wine house. Iron Horse was established in 1976 by pioneering founders Barry and Audrey Sterling, who saw the potential of Green Valley as a wine growing region way before anyone else. Still family owned and operated now by daughter Joy, CEO and son Laurence, Director of Operations. Iron Horse has an extensive portfolio of both sparkling and still wines, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, all of which are estate grown. Congratulations to Iron Horse Vineyards my 2020 Winery of the Year. ironhorsevineyards.com
California Wine Country today has Tom Simoneau in the studio with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, to present his favorite wines of 2020. At the end of this episode they speak with Joy Sterling, from Iron Horse Winery, which is Tom Simoneau's 2020 Winery of the Year. Here are the wines presented by Tom and Steve. Today's page was written by Tom Simoneau. He can be reached at tom@simoneauvineyards.com.
Best Whites Sparkling Wine: Iron Horse Vineyards 2016 Ocean Reserve Blanc de Blancs, Green Valley, $55.
This sparkling wine is a limited edition bottling. Iron Horse gives $4 a bottle to National Geographic’s Ocean Initiative. Crisp, delicate, nice and dry. This 100% Chardonnay Sparkler is just that “sparkling” bubbles with a cause. ironhorsevineyards.com
Chardonnay: Clos Pegase 2018 Carneros Napa Valley, Mitsuko’s Vineyard, Estate Grown, $30.
From this iconic Napa Valley winery, this wine with its classic cool region Chardonnay flavors of peach, apple, and pear shows how this varietal grown in the right place can produce an almost perfect wine. The vineyard, 365 acres in size, takes its name from founder Jan Shrem’s late wife. clospegase.com
Sauvignon Blanc: J. Lohr Estates 2019 Flume Crossing, Arroyo Seco, Monterey, $14. The blend is entirely from the Sauvignon Musque Clone picked over a month’s time at different ripeness levels. Early picks give bright acidity and key lime flavors while more ripeness gives grapefruit and passion fruit. And the final pick achieves mango and fig notes, complex and delicious. Another terrific release from J. Lohr, one of California’s finest. jlohr.com
Off Dry White: Dry Creek Vineyard 2019 Dry Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg, $16. Congratulations to founder Dave Stare and his family for continuing to produce Chenin Blanc while other wineries gave it the Sideways treatment (ie. - Anything but Merlot.) This slightly sweet wine is perfect as a summer sipper showing bright mouth feel, all orange blossom and candied lemon. drycreekvineyard.com
Alternative White: Priest Ranch Wines 2018 Grenache Blanc, Napa Valley, Estate Grown, $22. Not familiar with Grenache Blanc? It’s an aromatic white wine. Think biting into a ripe white peach and as the juice runs down your chin, lick it all up. The taste is bracing, yet balanced. It’s intoxicating! The Priest Ranch is now part of the 1,615 acre Somerston Estate of which 215 acres is planted to grapes. Also available in 375ml cans – 6 packs $60. priestranchwines.com
Best Value White: Inman 2019 Vin Soave, DOC Classico, $16. This product of Italy’s Veneto region is 100% Garganega. How many new friends have you made this year? Well, I say this Vin Soave could be your new best friend. The flavors are a cross between Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc with a hint of Viognier, a crowd pleaser. dallaterra.com
++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Most Fun Wine: Prosecco by Korbel, D.O.C. Sparkling Wine Product of Italy, 187 ml bottles, $5.25.
Korbel, always a trend setter, now has a full line of mini-bottles. Pop the top (unscrew), insert a straw, and you’re good to go. Prosecco is a screaming category of sparkling wine accounting for $1 in every $5 spent. Prosecco facts: made in the Charmat process, tank fermented from the Glera grape grown in the Veneto in North Eastern Italy. korbel.com
Rosé: Inman Family 2019 Endless Crush, Rosé of Pinot Noir, OGV (Olivet Grange Vineyard), Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, $38. The word delicate defines this wine. From its delicate pink color to its delicate pink kiss on your palate. All watermelon and wild strawberry… delicate and delicious. Kathleen Inman is a master winemaker who happens to be a woman. inmanfamilywines.com
Sweet Wine: Tenuta di Capezzana Vin Santo di Carmignano, D.O.C. Riserva, 375 ml bottle, $70. Among the oldest wine estates in Tuscany, Capezzana has been producing wine since 804 A.D. This Carmignano is made from mainly Trebbiano.
Martha Barra
Our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger is Martha Barra from Barra Winery of Mendocino. Charlie Barra started the home ranch in 1955. At the time they were growing "grapes that nobody cared about" as Dan Berger says, grapes that went into jug wine. But Charlie had friends in Napa Valley and asked them how to change the quality of his ranch's output. They began with 150 and have grown to 325 acres. Charlie passed away at 92, a year and a half ago. He was the godfather of north coast grape growing. He was always looking out for the other growers, too.
Dan Berger tells about the early history of grape growing in Mendocino County. In the 1950s Charlie Barra was really a pioneer. It was 11 years before Robert Mondavi opened in Napa Valley. During that period, the ranches were growing grapes that were not producing fine wine, but there were varieties that produced large yields of pretty common wine. At the time, 90% of Mendocino County fruit was sent to other counties. Today it's 75%.
They grow 9 different varietals, Barra of Mendocino and Girasole, which means Sunflower in Italian. They are tasting a Chardonnay, from the old Wente clone, they have 15 or 20 acres of it. There is a lot of tropical fruit, pineapple and a tiny bit of banana, rich on the tongue but finishes light. It's delicious by itself and it has good acidity in the background.
Dan Berger says that the Barra wines have become more distinctive in the last few years. The Pinot Blanc is one of their pet projects. It is an under-rated variety. There are only about 10 people making it in California. There are only 438 acres of it in California and they have 14 acres of it, says Martha Barra. Dan Berger tells how the producers today are making low-oak styles. It's mainly grown in Alsace in France. Dan Berger says it is an example of how different Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc can be from one another. Chardonnay is a blank slate and Pinot Blanc has more fruit components so it can be more distinctive. "It's smooth as hell," declares Steve.
Martha Barra explains that you press Pinot Blanc off the skins immediately, to preserve its apple, melon and citrus flavors. This wine is a blend of fruit from two of their Pinot Blanc vineyards, one of old vines and one of younger ones. It retails for about $14 or $15. Their wines are available at Bottle Barn and other local retailers.
Girasole and Barra of Mendocino wines are available at Bottle Barn.
They have won more awards for their Pinot Blanc than for any of their other wines. Dan Berger enjoys judging Pinot Blancs because it's always a treat. He also says it would go well with spicy Thai food.
They are certified organic farmers, and have been for 28 years. Charlie Barra used to joke, "I've been farming organic for 50 years, but the first 30 I didn't know it," because he was doing it before the official credentials were established.
Barra of Mendocino gets about 30% new French oak per year, so that drives their price up, but it's just a different style. The other label is Girasole (pronounced "gi-ra-SO-le") which means sunflower in Italian. (Gira means turn, and sole means sun, so it means, "the flower that turns with the sun.")
This wine has a screw cap, which Dan says is the secret to great white wine. They also use sugar cane corks, which are incapable of producing cork taint.
They also taste their Zinfandel. Dan says that Mendocino County produces some of California's finest Zinfandel fruit. This one has beautiful raspberry and tart cherry flavors, and the oak is so much in the background that you don't smell it at all. Martha Barra says they strive to make wines that are balanced. She learned this from John Parducci, who was the godfather of winemaking in Mendocino County. This is a world-class Zinfandel, says Dan. He adds that this is a very consistent wine, year after year. They blend this wine with some fruit from an almost dry-farmed vineyard ...
Martha Barra
Our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger is Martha Barra from Barra Winery of Mendocino. Charlie Barra started the home ranch in 1955. At the time they were growing “grapes that nobody cared about” as Dan Berger says, grapes that went into jug wine. But Charlie had friends in Napa Valley and asked them how to change the quality of his ranch’s output. They began with 150 and have grown to 325 acres. Charlie passed away at 92, a year and a half ago. He was the godfather of north coast grape growing. He was always looking out for the other growers, too.
Dan Berger tells about the early history of grape growing in Mendocino County. In the 1950s Charlie Barra was really a pioneer. It was 11 years before Robert Mondavi opened in Napa Valley. During that period, the ranches were growing grapes that were not producing fine wine, but there were varieties that produced large yields of pretty common wine. At the time, 90% of Mendocino County fruit was sent to other counties. Today it’s 75%.
They grow 9 different varietals, Barra of Mendocino and Girasole, which means Sunflower in Italian. They are tasting a Chardonnay, from the old Wente clone, they have 15 or 20 acres of it. There is a lot of tropical fruit, pineapple and a tiny bit of banana, rich on the tongue but finishes light. It’s delicious by itself and it has good acidity in the background.
Dan Berger says that the Barra wines have become more distinctive in the last few years. The Pinot Blanc is one of their pet projects. It is an under-rated variety. There are only about 10 people making it in California. There are only 438 acres of it in California and they have 14 acres of it, says Martha Barra. Dan Berger tells how the producers today are making low-oak styles. It’s mainly grown in Alsace in France. Dan Berger says it is an example of how different Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc can be from one another. Chardonnay is a blank slate and Pinot Blanc has more fruit components so it can be more distinctive. “It’s smooth as hell,” declares Steve.
Martha Barra explains that you press Pinot Blanc off the skins immediately, to preserve its apple, melon and citrus flavors. This wine is a blend of fruit from two of their Pinot Blanc vineyards, one of old vines and one of younger ones. It retails for about $14 or $15. Their wines are available at Bottle Barn and other local retailers.
Girasole and Barra of Mendocino wines are available at Bottle Barn.
They have won more awards for their Pinot Blanc than for any of their other wines. Dan Berger enjoys judging Pinot Blancs because it’s always a treat. He also says it would go well with spicy Thai food.
They are certified organic farmers, and have been for 28 years. Charlie Barra used to joke, “I’ve been farming organic for 50 years, but the first 30 I didn’t know it,” because he was doing it before the official credentials were established.
Barra of Mendocino gets about 30% new French oak per year, so that drives their price up, but it’s just a different style. The other label is Girasole (pronounced “gi-ra-SO-le”) which means sunflower in Italian. (Gira means turn, and sole means sun, so it means, “the flower that turns with the sun.”)
This wine has a screw cap, which Dan says is the secret to great white wine. They also use sugar cane corks, which are incapable of producing cork taint.
They also taste their Zinfandel. Dan says that Mendocino County produces some of California’s finest Zinfandel fruit. This one has beautiful raspberry and tart cherry flavors, and the oak is so much in the background that you don’t smell it at all. Martha Barra says they strive to make wines that are balanced. She learned this from John Parducci, who was the godfather of winemaking in Mendocino County. This is a world-class Zinfandel, says Dan. He adds that this is a very consistent wine, year after year. They blend this wine with some fruit from an almost dry-farmed vineyard at 900 feet above sea level, where they grow Petit Syrah and Zinfandel. The pH is low, which means high acidity.
Their 2018 Petit Syrah has received some very high competition scores, even from Dan. He says that California has enough sun to make Petit Syrah this intense.
Stu Smith, co-founder of Smith-Madrone Winery, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. He will be on Zoom from his home on the vineyard in upper Napa Valley. The last time he was on California Wine Country was May 3, 2017, here is a link to that podcast episode.
Before they begin talking to Stu Smith, Dan Berger has brought another “cellar dweller” to the show, an old bottle from Dan Berger’s massive personal wine cellar, to open and taste. It’s always a mystery when these bottles are opened. This cellar dweller is a 2009 Semillon, which Dan calls an unusual grape variety. It’s usually picked very early. It would be good with seafood as long as it’s not with a cream sauce. It has flavor that you won’t get in any other grape variety. “I love this, it’s fascinating and unique,” says Steve.
Stu Smith (photo by Meg Smith)
Stu Smith joins Steve and Dan on Zoom. He founded his winery with his brother at the age 22 in 1971. He first walked the property in the Fall of 1970. It was a different world. Wine had not yet become a “major issue” for Napa and Sonoma Counties. It was provincial and he was in the backroads. Dan mentions that it was only 5 years after Robert Mondavi first planted. They are located in St. Helena, at the junction of the road that leads over the ridge between Napa and Sonoma counties, at between 1300-2000 feet elevation.
They suffered moderate damage in the Glass fire, and had to replace some equipment. Several trees have to be removed and it’s a lot of work, but “we are fortunate that we didn’t lose anything substantial.” There is ample documentation of their fire damage at the Smith-Madrone website.
They do very little irrigation and they harvest their Chardonnay a little earlier than others, so its acidity is strong.
“We’re a little bit more European in style than Californian. We praise the concept of balance complexity elegance restraint finesse. We tend to think that wines should give pleasure, they should be hedonistic. (…) (We) believe that getting the vintage into the glass of wine is our job. We vintage date to celebrate the diversity of the vintage dates…”
The high elevation, after hundreds of years of erosion, the soil is very lean, and the soil profile is completely different than the valley. There is very little water. Dan explains that it’s tricky to grow grapes at this altitude. The soil is not particularly fertile so the yields are held down naturally. They rarely go over three tons to the acre. Some friends of Stu with Zinfandel acres in the central valley go 24 tons to the acre. Dan Berger points out that this is very reliant on how the wine reacts to its soil conditions.
Stu mentions Virgil’s treatise on farming and quotes the Latin, Bacchus amat colles, which means Bacchus loves the hills. He explains, the wines that come from hillside vineyards are more distinctive because the vines have to struggle and the berries are smaller, making a higher skin-to-juice ratio. Irrigation was not practiced until the mid-60s in California, when they irrigated to prevent frost. So farmers had water in the summer too, and irrigated. It made more production, but of common quality. They have held back their 2017 until now, compared to many 2019s that are in stores already.
Stu tells his story of growing up in Southern California and attending Berkeley in the mid-60s. He liked wine already then and took an introductory wine class at UC Davis and he did not want to go back to LA after college. His second attempt to put a syndicated partnership together worked and the rest is history. (The Smith-Madrone website has a lot on this subject as well.)
Stu Smith also taught enology for a long time at Santa Rosa Junior College, working with the great Rich Thomas.
They also taste the Smith-Madrone Riesling, which Dan Berger says comes from “a very blessed piece of property.” It is an astounding wine, Dan tastes slate, jasmine, and wild juniper. It carries the flavor of the soil because the acid is so good. Stu says there is .65% residual sugar, just a hint of champagne flavor. It was the first wine they made and it won the 1979 wine olympics in Paris, they won the German wine division. His brother Charlie, his brother Sam and he all just love Riesling.
Dan Berger describes it, “…this wine is dry, but it’s not.” You taste the sugar at first then it goes away. “It’s like the perfect wine.” Dan Berger really digs Riesling like Dan Berger. “If you need a glass of wine in the morning, there is nothing better than a little Riesling,” says Stu. “And an egg,” adds Steve. Look for “Riesling and an egg” to appear on Ricardo’s breakfast menu for the remainder of the season!
Stu says that 25-30 year-old Rieslings are as strong as any wines in the world. Dan tells that in 1900, the highest wine prices at auction were for dry rieslings.
Dan Berger says, if a producer is making Chardonnay and Cabernet but also Riesling, that means that they are serious about wine. Dan says that in Nielsen ratings, sales of Rieslings are steady and strong. Stu says that Riesling in Napa county sells for more than Chardonnay. The numbers are small, but the price per ton of Riesling is higher than for Chard.
Dan asks Stu what Napa Valley was like in 1971. It was totally undeveloped yet and there was not even a good restaurant in town yet. Stu also tells about working with André Tchelistcheff. They hired Stu to map some vineyard land that had just been acquired from Beaulieu, for a syndicate of investors.
Finally they taste the Cabernet and Dan says any of Stu’s Cabs will simply be better in 20 years.
Stu Smith, co-founder of Smith-Madrone Winery, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. He will be on Zoom from his home on the vineyard in upper Napa Valley. The last time he was on California Wine Country was May 3, 2017, here is a link to that podcast episode.
Before they begin talking to Stu Smith, Dan Berger has brought another “cellar dweller” to the show, an old bottle from Dan Berger’s massive personal wine cellar, to open and taste. It’s always a mystery when these bottles are opened. This cellar dweller is a 2009 Semillon, which Dan calls an unusual grape variety. It’s usually picked very early. It would be good with seafood as long as it's not with a cream sauce. It has flavor that you won’t get in any other grape variety. “I love this, it’s fascinating and unique,” says Steve.
Stu Smith (photo by Meg Smith)
Stu Smith joins Steve and Dan on Zoom. He founded his winery with his brother at the age 22 in 1971. He first walked the property in the Fall of 1970. It was a different world. Wine had not yet become a “major issue” for Napa and Sonoma Counties. It was provincial and he was in the backroads. Dan mentions that it was only 5 years after Robert Mondavi first planted. They are located in St. Helena, at the junction of the road that leads over the ridge between Napa and Sonoma counties, at between 1300-2000 feet elevation.
They suffered moderate damage in the Glass fire, and had to replace some equipment. Several trees have to be removed and it’s a lot of work, but “we are fortunate that we didn’t lose anything substantial.” There is ample documentation of their fire damage at the Smith-Madrone website.
They do very little irrigation and they harvest their Chardonnay a little earlier than others, so its acidity is strong.
“We’re a little bit more European in style than Californian. We praise the concept of balance complexity elegance restraint finesse. We tend to think that wines should give pleasure, they should be hedonistic. (...) (We) believe that getting the vintage into the glass of wine is our job. We vintage date to celebrate the diversity of the vintage dates…”
The high elevation, after hundreds of years of erosion, the soil is very lean, and the soil profile is completely different than the valley. There is very little water. Dan explains that it’s tricky to grow grapes at this altitude. The soil is not particularly fertile so the yields are held down naturally. They rarely go over three tons to the acre. Some friends of Stu with Zinfandel acres in the central valley go 24 tons to the acre. Dan Berger points out that this is very reliant on how the wine reacts to its soil conditions.
Stu mentions Virgil's treatise on farming and quotes the Latin, Bacchus amat colles, which means Bacchus loves the hills. He explains, the wines that come from hillside vineyards are more distinctive because the vines have to struggle and the berries are smaller, making a higher skin-to-juice ratio. Irrigation was not practiced until the mid-60s in California, when they irrigated to prevent frost. So farmers had water in the summer too, and irrigated. It made more production, but of common quality. They have held back their 2017 until now, compared to many 2019s that are in stores already.
Stu tells his story of growing up in Southern California and attending Berkeley in the mid-60s. He liked wine already then and took an introductory wine class at UC Davis and he did not want to go back to LA after college. His second attempt to put a syndicated partnership together worked and the rest is history. (The Smith-Madrone website has a lot on this subject as well.)
Stu Smith also taught enology for a long time at Santa Rosa Junior College, working with the great Rich Thomas.
They also taste the Smith-Madrone Riesling, which Dan Berger says comes from "a very blessed piece of property." It is an astounding wine, Dan tastes slate, jasmine, and wild juniper.
Alex Holman
Alex Holman, the winemaker at Notre Vue Winery joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. This is Alex's first time on the show. Notre Vue means "Our View" in French. The property was once called the Balverne Estate. Notre Vue is their top tier brand that can only be acquired through the estate. Balverne is their 3-tiered brand, more of new world varietals, with wider distribution. Notre Vue is more based on old-world blends. The property has been growing grapes since the 1800s.
Having earned a degree in Chemistry from Fresno State, Alex Holman first worked as an analytical chemist and in a fertilizer-pesticide plant. Then decided he wanted to work in a different place, so he went back to school for Enology. He is a native San Franciscan so that brought him home. He caught the fermentation bug from being a home brewer.
Before we continue with Alex Holman, Dan Berger has brought another "cellar dweller" from his extensive personal wine collection, to taste and discuss. This one is a 2004 Syrah from Brandborg Vineyard & Winery in Elkton, Oregon. Dan says they have the most fun tasting room in southern Oregon. This wine has flavors of black pepper, raspberry and a bit of fresh plum. Dan says their wines are a great value at modest prices. Alex Holman detects some aroma of violets in it too. He likes that as a descriptor for Syrah and for him, that's a sign of a good one, when it's present.
The Notre Vue property consists of 700 acres, 310 are devoted to forever wild open space. The Notre Vue website has a lot of pictures and descriptions of the property and the wildlife that lives there. They have about 220-240 planted acres with 16 varietals. The property is in Windsor, a half mile east of the freeway, up to the top of the hills. The Kinkade fire came through the property. It burned 80 miles of irrigation lines. They did manage to harvest some fruit and the rest of the work this time around has been a struggle. They sell more grapes than they bring into their own winery and contracts have been "difficult" this year. The testing labs were so booked up that it took 6 weeks to get his results on smoke taint tests.
Dan says the soil type is different than most of their neighbors. The property is split between Chalk Hill and Russian River AVAs. The southwestern quadrant is ancient sea bed, more clay soils, higher magnesium. The northern part has the volcanic Chalk Hill soils. Their Bordeaux and Rhône styles are doing well up on the rocky soils, whereas their Pinot and Chard vines are in the lower areas. Alex Holman says, "A wise man once told me that wine is made from fruit, so that should be your first flavor." The Chardonnay they are tasting is "nice and dry, and lovely," says Steve Jaxon. Dan Berger says that one thing that is appealing about this tasting is that it is not too cold. Alex says it is important to have sweet and spicy oak. He pays a lot of attention to his coopers, that they are not overbearing.
Notre Vue has a lot of open space and lakeside pavillions where they have tastings. Block 23 has a beautiful view of the valley. It is a great place to watch the planes when they do air shows. They are open daily by appointment only 10:30 to 4:00. They can also host special events for small groups of 8-10 and up to 40 people. Bob and Renée Stein have owned the property since 1992.
They have two labels. Ten years ago, the property was called Windsor Oaks and before that it was Balverne. When they transformed from Windsor Oaks, Balverne became the three-tier brand with national distribution. Notre Vue is their special lots, only available on the estate. Bottle Barn would have Balverne rather than Notre Vue. He explains how the different labels are derived from different clones.
They are also tasting a Rosé. Dan says these is a lot like Rhône wines, blends of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Dan says so much Sonoma County Rosé is made from Pinot Noir,
Alex Holman
Alex Holman, the winemaker at Notre Vue Winery joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. This is Alex’s first time on the show. Notre Vue means “Our View” in French. The property was once called the Balverne Estate. Notre Vue is their top tier brand that can only be acquired through the estate. Balverne is their 3-tiered brand, more of new world varietals, with wider distribution. Notre Vue is more based on old-world blends. The property has been growing grapes since the 1800s.
Having earned a degree in Chemistry from Fresno State, Alex Holman first worked as an analytical chemist and in a fertilizer-pesticide plant. Then decided he wanted to work in a different place, so he went back to school for Enology. He is a native San Franciscan so that brought him home. He caught the fermentation bug from being a home brewer.
Before we continue with Alex Holman, Dan Berger has brought another “cellar dweller” from his extensive personal wine collection, to taste and discuss. This one is a 2004 Syrah from Brandborg Vineyard & Winery in Elkton, Oregon. Dan says they have the most fun tasting room in southern Oregon. This wine has flavors of black pepper, raspberry and a bit of fresh plum. Dan says their wines are a great value at modest prices. Alex Holman detects some aroma of violets in it too. He likes that as a descriptor for Syrah and for him, that’s a sign of a good one, when it’s present.
The Notre Vue property consists of 700 acres, 310 are devoted to forever wild open space. The Notre Vue website has a lot of pictures and descriptions of the property and the wildlife that lives there. They have about 220-240 planted acres with 16 varietals. The property is in Windsor, a half mile east of the freeway, up to the top of the hills. The Kinkade fire came through the property. It burned 80 miles of irrigation lines. They did manage to harvest some fruit and the rest of the work this time around has been a struggle. They sell more grapes than they bring into their own winery and contracts have been “difficult” this year. The testing labs were so booked up that it took 6 weeks to get his results on smoke taint tests.
Dan says the soil type is different than most of their neighbors. The property is split between Chalk Hill and Russian River AVAs. The southwestern quadrant is ancient sea bed, more clay soils, higher magnesium. The northern part has the volcanic Chalk Hill soils. Their Bordeaux and Rhône styles are doing well up on the rocky soils, whereas their Pinot and Chard vines are in the lower areas.
Alex Holman says, “A wise man once told me that wine is made from fruit, so that should be your first flavor.”
The Chardonnay they are tasting is “nice and dry, and lovely,” says Steve Jaxon. Dan Berger says that one thing that is appealing about this tasting is that it is not too cold. Alex says it is important to have sweet and spicy oak. He pays a lot of attention to his coopers, that they are not overbearing.
Notre Vue has a lot of open space and lakeside pavillions where they have tastings. Block 23 has a beautiful view of the valley. It is a great place to watch the planes when they do air shows. They are open daily by appointment only 10:30 to 4:00. They can also host special events for small groups of 8-10 and up to 40 people. Bob and Renée Stein have owned the property since 1992.
They have two labels. Ten years ago, the property was called Windsor Oaks and before that it was Balverne. When they transformed from Windsor Oaks, Balverne became the three-tier brand with national distribution. Notre Vue is their special lots, only available on the estate. Bottle Barn would have Balverne rather than Notre Vue. He explains how the different labels are derived from different clones.
They are also tasting a Rosé. Dan says these is a lot like Rhône wines, blends of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Dan says so much Sonoma County Rosé is made from Pinot Noir, which they have a lot of. This “GSM” Rosé has a spice character that Dan thinks comes from the Syrah. He tastes raspberry jam and some white wine tannin. It is a dry wine, with a richness in the mid-palette that’s offset by the white wine tannin. Gorgeous wine!” He thinks the balance between acid and alcohol is ideal (12.7%, which is low). Alex says this brings out more of the fruit nuances. Dan says this could go with meat or fish, and could be shared at a table where one diner has meat and the other fish.
He also made a sparkling Rosé, “a sparkling sister to this wine.” They all have different proportions of the three grapes. They will launch their holiday releases on November 14 .
Next they taste the Pinot Noir. Alex tells how when they lost their inventory, they had to relaunch their brand. They had to readjust their business model when they had no product to ship. Dan says this wine is very young and needs another 8-10 months in bottle. It’s like a barrel sample. All of his 2019 Bordeaux are still in barrel. This 2017 Cab, at 14.3% alcohol, which is low, has not been aged very long in barrels, only about 18 months. You smell mostly the fruit and this one is very young and vivacious.
They have made the Notre Vue property available to neighbors who need a place to go to for bicycle access and hiking, provided that one is a member of a local gym. They are in the northeast corner of Windsor. Finally, the Syrah, according to Dan Berger, is fabulous. It’s like a California Chateau Neuf du Pape, with 51% Grenache, 29% Mourvedre and 20% Syrah.
Alex Holman points out that he uses native fermentation and does not add yeast. He is a chemist and closely in tune with the fermentation product.
Tom and Rusty Eddy from Tom Eddy Winery are our in-studio guests today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Michelle Marquez is sitting in for the vacationing Steve Jaxon today.
Tom Eddy Winery is the most northern parcel in Napa county and their property straddles the line between Sonoma and Napa counties. His parents moved to Davis when he was young so he went to high school there and was attracted to the wine program at UC Davis. He started making home made wine and beer in high school and he couldn't wait to get into the winemaking program. He remembers that his fellow students were several who came from some of the most famous families already in the wine business. So he had to work his way up.
He asked for recommendations as a winemaker and he got a job working for a big company (that no longer exists). Dan Berger and Tom Eddy have known each other for a long time, since Tom was at Souverain before it became Chateau Souverain. They had a jazz festival. It was on a small scale but they had a lot of fun. Robert Mondavi also used to do a jazz program. Now, many wineries have music of one kind or another. Tom Eddy has a lot to say about the talent pool in the wine business. Part of the fun of being a winemaker is the teaching aspect, teaching younger winemakers and learning from them too. His assistant winemaker Jason Gerard has been with him 13 years. He wanted to learn, so much, that he took an internship in Chile even if he didn't speak Spanish. Tom saw that he understood and wanted to learn the cellar part and he took the opportunity to be his mentor.
They open a Chardonnay of his. They wanted to make a Russian River Chardonnay that was not too over the top, with good balance and acid, and that still shows good fruit. Dan Berger says it gets a little smoky component from the barrels but it is not very oaky. There is a subtle spice note that Dan noticed and Tom appreciated that. It is their reserve and sells for $75. It will always be a small production.
Tom Eddy did some consulting work in Venezuela for a couple of years but now he is consulting in New Zealand, called TENZ, Tom Eddy New Zealand. His wife designed the label. They started the project 14 years ago. They've always loved New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and they were there for the cold climate SV conference. The began with 400 cases. He goes there during harvest and makes a selection and a plan to coordinate putting their blends together, by shipping the tasters to California, then he decides on the blends, which are done there and shipped here.
Dan Berger says that New Zealand wines have come into their maturity. 95% of the SV made in New Zealand today is being made in a more modern style than was used 20 years ago. Tom Eddy saw that things were changing, at the right time. They are tasting a 2017 that Dan Berger says is a stylistic treasure. 20 years ago they were making wines like this, and Dan says it's perfect. It has the perfect varietal component of, not chili pepper, but like a serrano chili, without the heat.
He also describes his approach to Cabernet and Cab blends in the flagship wine. If a single vineyard produces a year that can stand alone, he'll make it. So he does some of both, if warranted. He wants to produce a wine that has solid varietal characteristics, from the mountains, but not overly tannic. He picks grapes based on balance and looking for good acid that will become elegant wines that will last a long time. He always uses new French oak, always for 3 years. Tannins rise in the first two years, then they drop back and smooth the wine out, by additional time in barrel, so you get a little less astringency in the taste, with more time. It will make the wine more expensive but you won't have to age it as long in the cellar to have the effect of a mature wine. "When you buy an Eddy, it's ready" says his website.
Tom and Rusty Eddy from Tom Eddy Winery are our in-studio guests today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Michelle Marquez is sitting in for the vacationing Steve Jaxon today.
Tom Eddy Winery is the most northern parcel in Napa county and their property straddles the line between Sonoma and Napa counties. His parents moved to Davis when he was young so he went to high school there and was attracted to the wine program at UC Davis. He started making home made wine and beer in high school and he couldn’t wait to get into the winemaking program. He remembers that his fellow students were several who came from some of the most famous families already in the wine business. So he had to work his way up.
He asked for recommendations as a winemaker and he got a job working for a big company (that no longer exists). Dan Berger and Tom Eddy have known each other for a long time, since Tom was at Souverain before it became Chateau Souverain. They had a jazz festival. It was on a small scale but they had a lot of fun. Robert Mondavi also used to do a jazz program. Now, many wineries have music of one kind or another. Tom Eddy has a lot to say about the talent pool in the wine business. Part of the fun of being a winemaker is the teaching aspect, teaching younger winemakers and learning from them too. His assistant winemaker Jason Gerard has been with him 13 years. He wanted to learn, so much, that he took an internship in Chile even if he didn’t speak Spanish. Tom saw that he understood and wanted to learn the cellar part and he took the opportunity to be his mentor.
They open a Chardonnay of his. They wanted to make a Russian River Chardonnay that was not too over the top, with good balance and acid, and that still shows good fruit. Dan Berger says it gets a little smoky component from the barrels but it is not very oaky. There is a subtle spice note that Dan noticed and Tom appreciated that. It is their reserve and sells for $75. It will always be a small production.
Tom Eddy did some consulting work in Venezuela for a couple of years but now he is consulting in New Zealand, called TENZ, Tom Eddy New Zealand. His wife designed the label. They started the project 14 years ago. They’ve always loved New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and they were there for the cold climate SV conference. The began with 400 cases. He goes there during harvest and makes a selection and a plan to coordinate putting their blends together, by shipping the tasters to California, then he decides on the blends, which are done there and shipped here.
Dan Berger says that New Zealand wines have come into their maturity. 95% of the SV made in New Zealand today is being made in a more modern style than was used 20 years ago. Tom Eddy saw that things were changing, at the right time. They are tasting a 2017 that Dan Berger says is a stylistic treasure. 20 years ago they were making wines like this, and Dan says it’s perfect. It has the perfect varietal component of, not chili pepper, but like a serrano chili, without the heat.
He also describes his approach to Cabernet and Cab blends in the flagship wine. If a single vineyard produces a year that can stand alone, he’ll make it. So he does some of both, if warranted. He wants to produce a wine that has solid varietal characteristics, from the mountains, but not overly tannic. He picks grapes based on balance and looking for good acid that will become elegant wines that will last a long time. He always uses new French oak, always for 3 years. Tannins rise in the first two years, then they drop back and smooth the wine out, by additional time in barrel, so you get a little less astringency in the taste, with more time. It will make the wine more expensive but you won’t have to age it as long in the cellar to have the effect of a mature wine. “When you buy an Eddy, it’s ready” says his website.
Miro Tcholakov
Miro Tcholakov from Miro Cellars is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Joy Sterling from Iron Horse is also staying in the studio, from the previous hour. Miro Tcholokov has won many awards for Miro Cellars wines. He has been the full-time winemaker at Trentadue Winery since 1999.
This is his 31st year as a winemaker in California. He came to the US as an exchange student and worked at Dry Creek Vineyards for 9 years after that before joining Trentadue.
Miro says that the uncertainty about the quality of this year’s harvest, with the threat of smoke taint, has at least driven prices up for bulk wine of 2019 and 2018. There was one vintage, 2008, mostly Mendocino, that had to declassify its wines. Some wines that would have sold for $50 had to sell for $15. But Dan Berger remembers that some wines from 2008 aged well, and the smoke flavor dissipated.
There is one lab in Napa with only 2 machines for testing, and they are testing 24 hours a day. The demand for testing is very high.
Miro Cellars started with its first vintage in 2001 which was released in 2003. He made only Petit Syrah from Dry Creek at the time. It’s a dry farmed vineyard, sustainably grown. The vines are about 50 years old. He always wanted to keep his production small, which he did, about 500 cases, but he added 4 more varietals so it’s about 2500 cases.
The taste a 2017 Trentadue L’Astoria Merlot, which Dan says is in the “big” style of warmer climate Merlots, balanced with good acidity. Joy says it’s “yummy” and every one agree. Dan Berger says these old vines really do deliver and Miro agrees it’s the soil and the terroir too. As usual, the subject of Merlot reminds everyone of the aftermath of Sideways, when there was a glut of poorly made Merlot. Today it’s different, grown in the right place and done right.
Miro Cellars wines can be purchased online and some at Bottle Barn, and also in some local restaurants.
Next they taste a 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon that he makes from (mostly) Alexander Valley grapes. (It is actually 75% Cabernet, with some Merlot and Malbec) His Cabernet has won a litany of golds and 90 point scores. It will be priced in the low 30s at the most, says Miro. Says Dan Berger: “Juicy and flavorful with noticeable notes of dried thyme in the aftertaste and the aroma as well, because the wine does have a real honest to goodness Cabernet Sauvignon lilt to it.”
Miro Tholakov says, “I like varietal aromas. People are afraid to shoe the variety specificity of Cabernet, for some reason, the herbaciousness that may come out. In California especially, they just over-ripen a lot of times to get away from even the slightest level of pyrazenes.”
Dan Berger tells that one of the people who discovered what Cabernet really does in Alexander Valley was the late Justin Meyer from Silver Oak. In the late 60s, he noticed that the varietal components always showed through no matter how late you picked the fruit. That was why Silver Oak was famous for their Cabernet.
Next they taste a Montepulciano. Miro says there were 11,000 tons reported harvested in Sonoma County. He is surprised because Trentadue has about 7,000 of those tons. Who else is growing it? The vineyard is young, it is an Italian clone. 9 year old vines, they have to thin it a lot. It ripens late, 2 weeks after Cabernet even.
Miro says that Montepulciano is a Tuscan variety. There is a town called Montepulciano but is it surrounded by Sangiovese. It’s grown more in the south, because it ripens late. It has lots of 95 points, best of class and Double Gold scores. Dan says the tannins are not aggressive or bitter. Joy loves the brightness of it. It is hard to find.
Miro Tcholakov
Miro Tcholakov from Miro Cellars is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Joy Sterling from Iron Horse is also staying in the studio, from the previous hour. Miro Tcholokov has won many awards for Miro Cellars wines. He has been the full-time winemaker at Trentadue Winery since 1999.
This is his 31st year as a winemaker in California. He came to the US as an exchange student and worked at Dry Creek Vineyards for 9 years after that before joining Trentadue.
Miro says that the uncertainty about the quality of this year's harvest, with the threat of smoke taint, has at least driven prices up for bulk wine of 2019 and 2018. There was one vintage, 2008, mostly Mendocino, that had to declassify its wines. Some wines that would have sold for $50 had to sell for $15. But Dan Berger remembers that some wines from 2008 aged well, and the smoke flavor dissipated.
There is one lab in Napa with only 2 machines for testing, and they are testing 24 hours a day. The demand for testing is very high.
Miro Cellars started with its first vintage in 2001 which was released in 2003. He made only Petit Syrah from Dry Creek at the time. It's a dry farmed vineyard, sustainably grown. The vines are about 50 years old. He always wanted to keep his production small, which he did, about 500 cases, but he added 4 more varietals so it's about 2500 cases.
The taste a 2017 Trentadue L'Astoria Merlot, which Dan says is in the "big" style of warmer climate Merlots, balanced with good acidity. Joy says it's "yummy" and every one agree. Dan Berger says these old vines really do deliver and Miro agrees it's the soil and the terroir too. As usual, the subject of Merlot reminds everyone of the aftermath of Sideways, when there was a glut of poorly made Merlot. Today it's different, grown in the right place and done right.
Miro Cellars wines can be purchased online and some at Bottle Barn, and also in some local restaurants.
Next they taste a 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon that he makes from (mostly) Alexander Valley grapes. (It is actually 75% Cabernet, with some Merlot and Malbec) His Cabernet has won a litany of golds and 90 point scores. It will be priced in the low 30s at the most, says Miro. Says Dan Berger: "Juicy and flavorful with noticeable notes of dried thyme in the aftertaste and the aroma as well, because the wine does have a real honest to goodness Cabernet Sauvignon lilt to it."
Miro Tholakov says, "I like varietal aromas. People are afraid to shoe the variety specificity of Cabernet, for some reason, the herbaciousness that may come out. In California especially, they just over-ripen a lot of times to get away from even the slightest level of pyrazenes."
Dan Berger tells that one of the people who discovered what Cabernet really does in Alexander Valley was the late Justin Meyer from Silver Oak. In the late 60s, he noticed that the varietal components always showed through no matter how late you picked the fruit. That was why Silver Oak was famous for their Cabernet.
Next they taste a Montepulciano. Miro says there were 11,000 tons reported harvested in Sonoma County. He is surprised because Trentadue has about 7,000 of those tons. Who else is growing it? The vineyard is young, it is an Italian clone. 9 year old vines, they have to thin it a lot. It ripens late, 2 weeks after Cabernet even.
Miro says that Montepulciano is a Tuscan variety. There is a town called Montepulciano but is it surrounded by Sangiovese. It's grown more in the south, because it ripens late. It has lots of 95 points, best of class and Double Gold scores. Dan says the tannins are not aggressive or bitter. Joy loves the brightness of it. It is hard to find.
Darryl Miller
Darryl Miller from Dehlinger Winery is the guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Darryl has a background in the wine business, first in Seattle then in California since 1975. He moved to Sonoma County and started his own wine brokerage. There were only 2 or 3 distributors in California at the time. He got some really good wineries together and he could represent them.
In 1982 he met Tom Dehlinger at a tasting with many other winemakers. He was the only non-winemaker there. He kept asking to sell his brand, but the job was always taken. Then in 1985 they bought the property next door and left a building called the Octagon, on the property, where Darryl lived for five years. Now 35 years later he is back to help the family sell their wines. The Dehlinger family has run the winery for four decades. Today two Dehlinger sisters are running the operation, Eva Dehlinger is General Manager and Carmen Dehlinger is in charge of Sales & Marketing. Eva Dehlinger was on California Wine Country in October of 2018.
Darryl likes to pour the red wine first, which is the Burgundy tradition. Dan explains that the Chardonnay is considered the heavier more important wine, and the reds are rather light.
They are tasting the 2017 Gold Ridge Pinot Noir wine. The wines are named for the soils in the different parts of the property. The soils are different and their effect on the wine is remarkable. Next they taste the same wine in the 2016 vintage. This one has more body to it. Dan Berger says it’s a great example of how vintages do play a role. They really are different from year to year. This one is more intense, the other is lighter and more fruity.
Now they taste the 2018 Chardonnay. Dan says it displays its region very well, which is above the fog.
Dehlinger wines are available through the website. They only make 7000-8000 cases per year. Most of their varietals have only 1000 to 1500 cases made. They have direct consumers and some restaurants and retail around in California and a few other states. They have opened Colorado and New York, but with small amounts. The appellation is Russian River. Green Valley is within Russian River, but they use Russian River appellation.
Dan Berger says their wines have good balance and structure. Dan has some of their wines from the ’80s and they are holding up well. If this Cabernet had been made in Napa Valley, Dan says it could sell for $200. This sells for $60. They have some of the greatest clones that are used in California, says Darryl. Dan Berger says they are also careful to maintain the house style. The flavors are consistent from year to year. They are stable and “live forever” in the cellar.
Since they have such little production, they have to distribute their wine carefully. The family does want it to be available in different places, but they do have to manage where it can be sold. Dan Berger remembers in the ’80s it was very hard to get. That was the image that they winery developed. The demand was greater than the amount of wine produced, yet they are reasonably priced. Darryl says it’s still like that.
Darryl Miller
Darryl Miller from Dehlinger Winery is the guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Darryl has a background in the wine business, first in Seattle then in California since 1975. He moved to Sonoma County and started his own wine brokerage. There were only 2 or 3 distributors in California at the time. He got some really good wineries together and he could represent them.
In 1982 he met Tom Dehlinger at a tasting with many other winemakers. He was the only non-winemaker there. He kept asking to sell his brand, but the job was always taken. Then in 1985 they bought the property next door and left a building called the Octagon, on the property, where Darryl lived for five years. Now 35 years later he is back to help the family sell their wines. The Dehlinger family has run the winery for four decades. Today two Dehlinger sisters are running the operation, Eva Dehlinger is General Manager and Carmen Dehlinger is in charge of Sales & Marketing. Eva Dehlinger was on California Wine Country in October of 2018.
Darryl likes to pour the red wine first, which is the Burgundy tradition. Dan explains that the Chardonnay is considered the heavier more important wine, and the reds are rather light.
They are tasting the 2017 Gold Ridge Pinot Noir wine. The wines are named for the soils in the different parts of the property. The soils are different and their effect on the wine is remarkable. Next they taste the same wine in the 2016 vintage. This one has more body to it. Dan Berger says it's a great example of how vintages do play a role. They really are different from year to year. This one is more intense, the other is lighter and more fruity.
Now they taste the 2018 Chardonnay. Dan says it displays its region very well, which is above the fog.
Dehlinger wines are available through the website. They only make 7000-8000 cases per year. Most of their varietals have only 1000 to 1500 cases made. They have direct consumers and some restaurants and retail around in California and a few other states. They have opened Colorado and New York, but with small amounts. The appellation is Russian River. Green Valley is within Russian River, but they use Russian River appellation.
Dan Berger says their wines have good balance and structure. Dan has some of their wines from the '80s and they are holding up well. If this Cabernet had been made in Napa Valley, Dan says it could sell for $200. This sells for $60. They have some of the greatest clones that are used in California, says Darryl. Dan Berger says they are also careful to maintain the house style. The flavors are consistent from year to year. They are stable and "live forever" in the cellar.
Since they have such little production, they have to distribute their wine carefully. The family does want it to be available in different places, but they do have to manage where it can be sold. Dan Berger remembers in the '80s it was very hard to get. That was the image that they winery developed. The demand was greater than the amount of wine produced, yet they are reasonably priced. Darryl says it's still like that.
Nick Goldschmidt owner and winemaker of Goldschmidt Vineyards is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. The last time Nick Goldschmidt was on California Wine Country was this episode in May of 2018.
Goldschmidt Vineyards is active on Instagram and maintains this YouTube channel, where Nick posts updates about his winemaking activities for his own production and for his clients in six countries in the northern and southern hemispheres.
The first tasting is a 2018 Singing Tree Russian River Valley Chardonnay. The vines were planted in 1982 so per Nick this qualifies as old vines. Nick describes the vineyard’s origins and says it retails for about $18. Dan Berger says there is hardly any oak, it is crisp because it’s Russian River and very rich in mid-palette. It was served at room temperature. If you served it cooler, Dan says it would be flavorless, so its richness comes out if it’s warmer. Dan calls it a baby right now, it would need two years.
Nick remembers being 26 years old in France, working for a famous winemaker, when he was given a taste from a tank of Chablis. He said he thought it had oak flavors and the guy almost chased him out of the winery because Chablis does not use oak.
Trig Point Chardonnay is another of Nick’s wines. They also taste a red blend called Fidelity, Nick tells a good story about the name Fidelity.
After that, a Katherine Goldschmidt 2018 Stone Mason Hill Cabernet Sauvignon is next. Dan says that this one is comparatively more aggressive in the tannins and that it could bear 20 years in the bottle or at least decanting for a couple of hours. They will also taste the 2016 vintage of the same wine. In both cases the acidity is carrying it and it will go for 7-10 years, according to Dan. Nick has been making wine from this vineyard for 30 years. You don’t get an opportunity to work with a vineyard for that long.
His labels are named after his daughters. Hillary, Katherine, Chelsea, each of whom have different tastes.
He has just opened his tasting room on Dry Creek Road, called the Pour House, shared with two other small wineries. They are doing all outside tastings right now. They also have 6 pic nic tables out back. They are not pouring wines that are freely available in the restaurants, but rather the tasting room specializes in their rarer and smaller vintages, so it is a unique tasting experience. Call for reservations.
Dan is impressed with the 2016 here. The acid is listed at 6.5 and Dan thinks maybe it’s a bit higher. It would go well with red meat. Normally Nick takes pride in having vineyards that face east because the morning sun is less damaging than the afternoon. The 2016 Yeoman is an old terraced vineyard, that goes from East to South-East. So, it’s a cool site. Nick explains that from Alexander Valley he gets more flavors like red fruit, red cherry, blueberry, black cherry with more acidity. Because it’s cooler he gets a little more black fruit cherry and plum. Dan Berger says he detects a little bit of wild thyme in it.
Nick Goldschmidt owner and winemaker of Goldschmidt Vineyards is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. The last time Nick Goldschmidt was on California Wine Country was this episode in May of 2018.
Goldschmidt Vineyards is active on Instagram and maintains this YouTube channel, where Nick posts updates about his winemaking activities for his own production and for his clients in six countries in the northern and southern hemispheres.
The first tasting is a 2018 Singing Tree Russian River Valley Chardonnay. The vines were planted in 1982 so per Nick this qualifies as old vines. Nick describes the vineyard's origins and says it retails for about $18. Dan Berger says there is hardly any oak, it is crisp because it's Russian River and very rich in mid-palette. It was served at room temperature. If you served it cooler, Dan says it would be flavorless, so its richness comes out if it's warmer. Dan calls it a baby right now, it would need two years.
Nick remembers being 26 years old in France, working for a famous winemaker, when he was given a taste from a tank of Chablis. He said he thought it had oak flavors and the guy almost chased him out of the winery because Chablis does not use oak.
Trig Point Chardonnay is another of Nick's wines. They also taste a red blend called Fidelity, Nick tells a good story about the name Fidelity.
After that, a Katherine Goldschmidt 2018 Stone Mason Hill Cabernet Sauvignon is next. Dan says that this one is comparatively more aggressive in the tannins and that it could bear 20 years in the bottle or at least decanting for a couple of hours. They will also taste the 2016 vintage of the same wine. In both cases the acidity is carrying it and it will go for 7-10 years, according to Dan. Nick has been making wine from this vineyard for 30 years. You don't get an opportunity to work with a vineyard for that long.
His labels are named after his daughters. Hillary, Katherine, Chelsea, each of whom have different tastes.
He has just opened his tasting room on Dry Creek Road, called the Pour House, shared with two other small wineries. They are doing all outside tastings right now. They also have 6 pic nic tables out back. They are not pouring wines that are freely available in the restaurants, but rather the tasting room specializes in their rarer and smaller vintages, so it is a unique tasting experience. Call for reservations.
Dan is impressed with the 2016 here. The acid is listed at 6.5 and Dan thinks maybe it's a bit higher. It would go well with red meat. Normally Nick takes pride in having vineyards that face east because the morning sun is less damaging than the afternoon. The 2016 Yeoman is an old terraced vineyard, that goes from East to South-East. So, it's a cool site. Nick explains that from Alexander Valley he gets more flavors like red fruit, red cherry, blueberry, black cherry with more acidity. Because it's cooler he gets a little more black fruit cherry and plum. Dan Berger says he detects a little bit of wild thyme in it.
Lisa Amaroli, winemaker, Benziger Family Winery
Lisa Amaroli, winemaker at Benziger Family Winery, and Chris Benziger both join Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. Chris’ family founded the winery in the early 1970s and Lisa Amaroli has been their winemaker since 1999.
Chris Benziger tells the family story. His grandfather was a bootlegger during Prohibition. After WWII, he came back, legitimized his liquor distribution business, then Chris’ eldest brother Mike moved to California to the Livermore Valley for a winery called Stoney Ridge. They called it the reform school for grapes, they used fruit that nobody else wanted. His brother and father decided to go into the wine business and the whole family moved from New York City to Sonoma. They bought an old ranch that had been vacant since Prohibition.
Their success started with the 1981 Sonoma County Harvest Fair. It was Dan Berger’s first wine competition as a judge. The family made Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet. In a big surprise, they won the sweepstakes, N.1 with Sauvignon Blanc and 2nd with the Chardonnay. This put them on the map.
Dan finds that their Sauvignon Blanc is a lot like a white Bordeaux. Lisa Amaroli says their estate properties are all bio-dynamically farmed. It has so much acid, a 3.03 pH so it needs the contact with lees to build creaminess. Dan says that SV made like this is a rare treat. Instead of green herbaceous flavors, you get stressed vines, so you get more minerality and steeliness from the variety. It’s unusual to have mountain-grown SV.
Lisa grew up in Sonoma County in a conservative family where the sons were supposed to go to college and the girls were supposed to marry. She instead went to live in Europe, lived in Heidelberg and visited France enough to fall in love with their practices of food and wine. Back in the US, a friend encouraged her to go to college and she attended Sonoma State studying Biology and Chemistry. Instead of medicine she found that she might find work in the wine business and got a job working for Kerry Damskey. (Kerry Damskey was on California Wine Country on this episode in March of 2018.) He put her to work sampling grapes and she was hooked. She has taken lots of classes at UC Davis and has had lots of mentors over the years.
She’s glad that the Benzigers let her make their commercial brands with total trust and nothing but support. “It’s been a really great experience to be a woman winemaker at Benziger.”
They are tasting a 2017 which was a fire year. Chris lost his house to fire, but managed to save some bottles from his wine collection by throwing them into the swimming pool before evacuating.
Chris calls Chardonnay the blank canvas of wines, in that it can come out many different ways depending on how it is grown and treated.
Benziger Family Winery is well represented at Bottle Barn. Visit Bottle Barn dot com for up-to-the-minute offers and news. They have extensive choices online and offer delivery and in-person pick-up service. You can also visit the shop to browse their huge selection, in person, with a mask on.
Lisa Amaroli, winemaker, Benziger Family Winery
Lisa Amaroli, winemaker at Benziger Family Winery, and Chris Benziger both join Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. Chris' family founded the winery in the early 1970s and Lisa Amaroli has been their winemaker since 1999.
Chris Benziger tells the family story. His grandfather was a bootlegger during Prohibition. After WWII, he came back, legitimized his liquor distribution business, then Chris' eldest brother Mike moved to California to the Livermore Valley for a winery called Stoney Ridge. They called it the reform school for grapes, they used fruit that nobody else wanted. His brother and father decided to go into the wine business and the whole family moved from New York City to Sonoma. They bought an old ranch that had been vacant since Prohibition.
Their success started with the 1981 Sonoma County Harvest Fair. It was Dan Berger's first wine competition as a judge. The family made Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet. In a big surprise, they won the sweepstakes, N.1 with Sauvignon Blanc and 2nd with the Chardonnay. This put them on the map.
Dan finds that their Sauvignon Blanc is a lot like a white Bordeaux. Lisa Amaroli says their estate properties are all bio-dynamically farmed. It has so much acid, a 3.03 pH so it needs the contact with lees to build creaminess. Dan says that SV made like this is a rare treat. Instead of green herbaceous flavors, you get stressed vines, so you get more minerality and steeliness from the variety. It's unusual to have mountain-grown SV.
Lisa grew up in Sonoma County in a conservative family where the sons were supposed to go to college and the girls were supposed to marry. She instead went to live in Europe, lived in Heidelberg and visited France enough to fall in love with their practices of food and wine. Back in the US, a friend encouraged her to go to college and she attended Sonoma State studying Biology and Chemistry. Instead of medicine she found that she might find work in the wine business and got a job working for Kerry Damskey. (Kerry Damskey was on California Wine Country on this episode in March of 2018.) He put her to work sampling grapes and she was hooked. She has taken lots of classes at UC Davis and has had lots of mentors over the years.
She's glad that the Benzigers let her make their commercial brands with total trust and nothing but support. "It's been a really great experience to be a woman winemaker at Benziger."
They are tasting a 2017 which was a fire year. Chris lost his house to fire, but managed to save some bottles from his wine collection by throwing them into the swimming pool before evacuating.
Chris calls Chardonnay the blank canvas of wines, in that it can come out many different ways depending on how it is grown and treated.
Benziger Family Winery is well represented at Bottle Barn. Visit Bottle Barn dot com for up-to-the-minute offers and news. They have extensive choices online and offer delivery and in-person pick-up service. You can also visit the shop to browse their huge selection, in person, with a mask on.
Ed and Adam Sbragia, founder and winemaker of Sbragia Family Vineyards, are guests of Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. They have an estate winery in Geyserville and a tasting lounge in downtown Sonoma. Ed Sbragia was the winemaster at Beringer. They allowed him to start his brand while still working there, so he started in 2001. Adam joined him in 2003. Adam learned winemaking from his father and the family all works together. Dry Creek Valley His neighbors in the Dry Creek Valley are making extraordinary wine, says Dan Berger. The Sbragia family acquired their property in 2006. It is the old Lake Sonoma Winery which was owned by Gary Heck. It is the last winery at the end of the road, in the higher, hotter part of Dry Creek Valley. They are growing Zinfandel, Carignane, Petit Syrah, also some Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Ed liked, and adopted, the Italian way of making white, without a lot of racking, making clean wine and keeping the barrels full.
They remember Myron Nightingale, who graduated in 1941 from the Viticulture and Enology program of University of California, which at the time was located at Berkeley, before Davis was founded. Louis Martini and Charlie Crawford, head of Gallo, were also in that class. Myron was as influential as André Tchelistcheff. He took over as winemaker at Beringer in 1971 and took it to great success. Adam Sbragia's Path to Winemaking Adam Sbragia was in the wine business even before the family winery began. Growing up in Healdsburg and with his family in wine, it is easy to get exposure to all aspects of the art, science and business. His grandfather was a grower who came from Italy in the 1920s and bought the land in Dry Creek Valley that the family still owns. Growing up he was either in the winery with his dad or in the vineyard with his grandfather. He was never forced to work at it. He got admitted to UC Davis and to UCLA and chose to go to LA to pursue acting too. But he came back and started working in wine in the early 2000s. This was a dream of the family since when his grandfather started a winery in the 1930s that failed in the Depression.
They grow 100% Zinfandel growing on their own estate but they produce about 30% Chardonnay, 30% Cabernet, 20% Zinfandel plus bits of Carignane, Petit Syrah, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé and a Port.
Bottle Barn has plenty of Sbragia wines. Visit Bottle Barn dot com for details on how they are operating now.
The Sbragia family came from the town of Lucca in western Tuscany, 13 miles from the coast.
They tasted the 2019 Redwood Ranch Sauvignon Blanc, which has always been part of their repertoire. It's stainless steel fermented, very cold, very tropical, easy drinking, nice acid. They also taste two Chardonnays, The Home Ranch and the Gamble Ranch. He explains about the balancing act with malolactic fermentation
Ed and Adam Sbragia are guests of Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. The father and son are founder and winemaker of Sbragia Family Vineyards. They have an estate winery in Geyserville and a tasting lounge in downtown Sonoma. Ed Sbragia was the winemaster at Beringer. They allowed him to start his brand while still working there, so he started in 2001. Adam joined him in 2003. Adam learned winemaking from his father and the family all works together.
His neighbors in the Dry Creek Valley are making extraordinary wine, says Dan Berger. The Sbragia family acquired their property in 2006. It is the old Lake Sonoma Winery which was owned by Gary Heck. It is the last winery at the end of the road, in the higher, hotter part of Dry Creek Valley. They are growing Zinfandel, Carignane, Petit Syrah, also some Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Ed liked, and adopted, the Italian way of making white, without a lot of racking, making clean wine and keeping the barrels full.
They remember Myron Nightingale, who graduated in 19441 from the Viticulture and Enology program of University of California, which at the time was located at Berkeley, before Davis was founded. Louis Martini and Charlie Crawford, head of Gallo, were also in that class. Myron was as influential as André Tchelistcheff. He took over as winemaker at Beringer in 1971 and took it to great success.
Adam Sbragia was in the wine business even before the family winery began. Growing up in Healdsburg and with his family in wine, it is easy to get exposure to all aspects of the art, science and business. His grandfather was a grower who came from Italy in the 1920s and bought the land in Dry Creek Valley that the family still owns. Growing up he was either in the winery with his dad or in the vineyard with his grandfather. He was never forced to work at it. He got admitted to UC Davis and to UCLA and chose to go to LA to pursue acting too. But he came back and started working in wine in the early 2000s. This was a dream of the family since when his grandfather started a winery in the 1930s that failed in the Depression.
They grow 100% Zinfandel growing on their own estate but they produce about 30% Chardonnay, 30% Cabernet, 20% Zinfandel plus bits of Carignane, Petit Syrah, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé and a Port.
Bottle Barn has plenty of Sbragia wines. Visit Bottle Barn dot com for details on how they are operating now.
The Sbragia family came from the town of Lucca in western Tuscany, 13 miles from the coast.
They tasted the 2019 Redwood Ranch Sauvignon Blanc, which has always been part of their repertoire. It’s stainless steel fermented, very cold, very tropical, easy drinking, nice acid. They also taste two Chardonnays, The Home Ranch and the Gamble Ranch. He explains about the balancing act with malolactic fermentation
Today's tastings: Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé & Syrah.
Dan Barwick is in with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. He is the winemaker at Paradise Ridge Winery. They were hit hard by the October 2017 fire but they are open and doing business. They have the perfect locale to do social distance tastings. There is plenty of space there. Steve says they have one of the greatest views in the county from up there.
They start with a Sauvignon Blanc that Dan has brought. Dan started his wine activity at Harrod’s in London where he was working in the wine department in the '80s. He had different jobs in the wine business and came to California in 1991 to work at a harvest at Matanzas Creek, to learn winemaking “boots on the ground.” He also went to Burgundy, South Africa and Australia. He has taken extension courses from UC Davis and many courses also at Santa Rosa Junior College. He describes Harrod’s food halls in Knightsbridge, London, which is an iconic store. It is a great place to visit. It is a huge store maybe six acres on six floors. They have absolutely anything and everything. He is married to Sonia Byck, of the family that owns the property. They met at Santa Rosa JC. Dan enjoys cooking pizza. He has worked with John Franchetti and they have a pizza oven at the winery.
The Paradise Ridge Sauvignon Blanc is the first wine tasting today. Dan calls it the sorbet of wines. It could pair well with oysters or spicy cuisine. 1998 was Dan’s first harvest at Paradise Ridge.
Next is a 2019 Rosé from Syrah and some Grenache. It is made with gentle whole-cluster press. Rosé is popular now, but it wasn't always so. Dan Barwick points out that the fastest growing segments of the American wine market are the sparkling, aromatic and Rosé, all of which are driven by their acidity.
Dan Berger arrives in the studio and tries the Sauvignon Blanc first, "wonderful" he says, with some pink grapefruit flavors, tropical fruit and dried herbs. They put a silk-screened label on a Bordeaux-style bottle. Dan Berger says that Syrah normally gives a bolder aftertaste, but this is more delicate; it's stunning, a combination of the essence of the Syrah with the aromatics coming from the Grenache.
Barry Herbst calls in from Bottle Barn, where they have lots of Paradise Ridge wines. They are very well-stocked and open for pickup and delivery. Visit Bottle Barn dot com for online ordering and tons of information. There is also a wine glut, so they have specials, like wines that normally sold for $50 a bottle for $17.99. Supply and demand is working in favor of fans of excellent Pinot Noir this year.
Cool climate Syrah can be excellent, although often it is grown in warmer climates here. Dan Berger also is getting excellent Syrah wines from New Zealand. Dan says that this Syrah is different, it’s a Grenache Syrah Mourvedre, a GSM. They are made to have good acidity so that they will go well with food. The acidity comes from picking the grapes before they become too ripe with more sugars. Dan Barwick describes the two kinds of acid in grapes, tartaric acid and malic acid. The dry Rosé gets its acidity from the tartaric, and the malic gives it a "pop" he says. He says the pH is the magic number that will dictate what you can and cannot do. Knowing the pH of a wine is important, because if it is too high, the wine will not mature the way you want it to.
Today’s tastings: Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé & Syrah.
Dan Barwick is in with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. He is the winemaker at Paradise Ridge Winery. They were hit hard by the October 2017 fire but they are open and doing business. They have the perfect locale to do social distance tastings. There is plenty of space there. Steve says they have one of the greatest views in the county from up there.
They start with a Sauvignon Blanc that Dan has brought. Dan started his wine activity at Harrod’s in London where he was working in the wine department in the ’80s. He had different jobs in the wine business and came to California in 1991 to work at a harvest at Matanzas Creek, to learn winemaking “boots on the ground.” He also went to Burgundy, South Africa and Australia. He has taken extension courses from UC Davis and many courses also at Santa Rosa Junior College. He describes Harrod’s food halls in Knightsbridge, London, which is an iconic store. It is a great place to visit. It is a huge store maybe six acres on six floors. They have absolutely anything and everything. He is married to Sonia Byck, of the family that owns the property. They met at Santa Rosa JC. Dan enjoys cooking pizza. He has worked with John Franchetti and they have a pizza oven at the winery.
The Paradise Ridge Sauvignon Blanc is the first wine tasting today. Dan calls it the sorbet of wines. It could pair well with oysters or spicy cuisine. 1998 was Dan’s first harvest at Paradise Ridge.
Next is a 2019 Rosé from Syrah and some Grenache. It is made with gentle whole-cluster press. Rosé is popular now, but it wasn’t always so. Dan Barwick points out that the fastest growing segments of the American wine market are the sparkling, aromatic and Rosé, all of which are driven by their acidity.
Dan Berger arrives in the studio and tries the Sauvignon Blanc first, “wonderful” he says, with some pink grapefruit flavors, tropical fruit and dried herbs. They put a silk-screened label on a Bordeaux-style bottle. Dan Berger says that Syrah normally gives a bolder aftertaste, but this is more delicate; it’s stunning, a combination of the essence of the Syrah with the aromatics coming from the Grenache.
Barry Herbst calls in from Bottle Barn, where they have lots of Paradise Ridge wines. They are very well-stocked and open for pickup and delivery. Visit Bottle Barn dot com for online ordering and tons of information. There is also a wine glut, so they have specials, like wines that normally sold for $50 a bottle for $17.99. Supply and demand is working in favor of fans of excellent Pinot Noir this year.
Cool climate Syrah can be excellent, although often it is grown in warmer climates here. Dan Berger also is getting excellent Syrah wines from New Zealand. Dan says that this Syrah is different, it’s a Grenache Syrah Mourvedre, a GSM. They are made to have good acidity so that they will go well with food. The acidity comes from picking the grapes before they become too ripe with more sugars. Dan Barwick describes the two kinds of acid in grapes, tartaric acid and malic acid. The dry Rosé gets its acidity from the tartaric, and the malic gives it a “pop” he says. He says the pH is the magic number that will dictate what you can and cannot do. Knowing the pH of a wine is important, because if it is too high, the wine will not mature the way you want it to.
Carol Shelton
Carol Shelton is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. She is a legendary winemaker and is known as the Queen of Zinfandel. Carol Shelton was last on California Wine Country back in February of 2019, and before that, in December of 2017.
Carol is coming up on her 44th harvest. She was one of the first dozen women to graduate in Fermentation Science at UC Davis, in 1978. That was the degree they gave before they formed the Enology degrees. She went to Australia and worked for Peter Lehmann. He was a famous character and a charming guy. She travelled around Australia and New Zealand, then worked for United Vintners in Madera, and then came to Buena Vista winery for a year with the great André Tchelistcheff. She says he gave us so many improvements that it helped make California wine as good as wine from anywhere. "It was a real gift to my learning curve and my career to have worked with him." - Carol Shelton, speaking of André Tchelistcheff After that, she went to Sonoma Vineyards in 1981 which later became Rodney Strong. She left there in 2000. In 1990 she became in charge of the Windsor Vineyards brands. They made 25 wines at first and when she left almost 20 years later they were making 50. Dan said her wine was so good it won competitions that he was judging, and because of that they met and became friends.
In the early to mid 80s when Steve Jaxon was off the road from touring with a band, he ended up working with Tom Simoneau at Windsor Vineyards working the phones selling wine on the phone. He lasted there for 2 weeks and still laughs at the story.
Carol Shelton Wines began when she left in 2000. She didn’t like being told what to do by middle managers who didn’t give her credit, and she was tired of having others take recognition for her work. On her website, it says, “early in her career, Carol met some of the resistance that women were encountering.” She learned how to stand up for herself. Dan tells how Carol’s insight starts with the varietal. In the 80s he noticed that the varietals smelled and tasted like they should. For example, the Semillon, which they don’t make any more, but it was an example of how she gets the grape’s expression with skill.
This is barrel fermented and she uses six different yeast strains. That makes a big difference. Her old professor swore that the yeast didn’t make any difference. So she did a big experiment when she was at Rodney Strong, with rows of barrels with different yeast strains. Then she showed the professor that they all had different flavors, when compared. He still couldn't believe it made a difference but her results over many years prove that she is right. Dan says yeast strains are an esoteric subject, fascinating and requiring real understanding.
They taste a 2018 Chardonnay, all barrel fermented, with neutral French oak, so it's not the heavy old style buttery oaky type. When Steve started drinking Chardonnay, the buttery style was prevalent. Now fashions are shifting. Dan says this needs 6 months in the bottle to develop, so it should be decanted for an hour or two, and don’t serve it too cold. Carol says it has a few percent of Viognier and Marsanne mixed in.
Mostly it’s available at the winery. No buyers even want to taste Chardonnay because it is so ubiquitous. It’s getting better across the board, says Dan, but it’s a saturated market now. The “naked” Chards with no oak are boring to her. This one has body and texture but doesn’t overwhelm you or your food. The winery is located on Coffey Lane in a business park. So they are not equipped to have opening hours at all, during Coronavirus precautions. The way to get the wine is at the website.
They taste the Coquille Blanc, which is a tribute to the soil at Paso Robles, an ancient ocean bed rich in calcium from shellfish deposits. It's made from all Rhone varieties.
They drink a Wild Thing Rendez-Vous Rosé which Carol says goes well with her rec...
Carol Shelton
Carol Shelton is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. She is a legendary winemaker and is known as the Queen of Zinfandel. Carol Shelton was last on California Wine Country back in February of 2019, and before that, in December of 2017.
Carol is coming up on her 44th harvest. She was one of the first dozen women to graduate in Fermentation Science at UC Davis, in 1978. That was the degree they gave before they formed the Enology degrees. She went to Australia and worked for Peter Lehmann. He was a famous character and a charming guy. She travelled around Australia and New Zealand, then worked for United Vintners in Madera, and then came to Buena Vista winery for a year with the great André Tchelistcheff. She says he gave us so many improvements that it helped make California wine as good as wine from anywhere.
“It was a real gift to my learning curve and my career to have worked with him.” – Carol Shelton, speaking of André Tchelistcheff
After that, she went to Sonoma Vineyards in 1981 which later became Rodney Strong. She left there in 2000. In 1990 she became in charge of the Windsor Vineyards brands. They made 25 wines at first and when she left almost 20 years later they were making 50. Dan said her wine was so good it won competitions that he was judging, and because of that they met and became friends.
In the early to mid 80s when Steve Jaxon was off the road from touring with a band, he ended up working with Tom Simoneau at Windsor Vineyards working the phones selling wine on the phone. He lasted there for 2 weeks and still laughs at the story.
Carol Shelton Wines began when she left in 2000. She didn’t like being told what to do by middle managers who didn’t give her credit, and she was tired of having others take recognition for her work. On her website, it says, “early in her career, Carol met some of the resistance that women were encountering.” She learned how to stand up for herself. Dan tells how Carol’s insight starts with the varietal. In the 80s he noticed that the varietals smelled and tasted like they should. For example, the Semillon, which they don’t make any more, but it was an example of how she gets the grape’s expression with skill.
This is barrel fermented and she uses six different yeast strains. That makes a big difference. Her old professor swore that the yeast didn’t make any difference. So she did a big experiment when she was at Rodney Strong, with rows of barrels with different yeast strains. Then she showed the professor that they all had different flavors, when compared. He still couldn’t believe it made a difference but her results over many years prove that she is right. Dan says yeast strains are an esoteric subject, fascinating and requiring real understanding.
They taste a 2018 Chardonnay, all barrel fermented, with neutral French oak, so it’s not the heavy old style buttery oaky type. When Steve started drinking Chardonnay, the buttery style was prevalent. Now fashions are shifting. Dan says this needs 6 months in the bottle to develop, so it should be decanted for an hour or two, and don’t serve it too cold. Carol says it has a few percent of Viognier and Marsanne mixed in.
Mostly it’s available at the winery. No buyers even want to taste Chardonnay because it is so ubiquitous. It’s getting better across the board, says Dan, but it’s a saturated market now. The “naked” Chards with no oak are boring to her. This one has body and texture but doesn’t overwhelm you or your food. The winery is located on Coffey Lane in a business park. So they are not equipped to have opening hours at all, during Coronavirus precautions. The way to get the wine is at the website.
They taste the Coquille Blanc, which is a tribute to the soil at Paso Robles, an ancient ocean bed rich in calcium from shellfish deposits. It’s made from all Rhone varieties.
They drink a Wild Thing Rendez-Vous Rosé which Carol says goes well with her recipe for Ahi Poke, which is here on Carol Shelton’s website.
Steve Rogstad, winemaker at Cuvaison Winery, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Steve Rogstad was last on the show about a year ago. They are open on the patio by reservation only, 10am-5pm daily. They have a large terrace with about 10 tables. They have also started offering curbside pickup and people can take hikes through the vineyard.
Cuvaison is a family owned winery. It was founded in 1969 and the current owner bought it in 1979 and they planted a vineyard in Carneros. They make Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc but also a little Syrah and Merlot. Their wines are estate grown and bottled. They have different clones of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, so he can experiment with different approaches. They are tasting a 2018 Estate Chardonnay. It is a blend of the different clones that they grow. John Thatcher, his predecessor at Cuvaison, put their Chardonnay on the map back in the early 80s.
Steve Rogstad got into the wine business by first studying literature and going to France to study. He lived in an apartment above a wine shop and became fascinated with it. After that he decided to study winemaking and came to UC Davis. He needed to take science classes, which he did, and then went to grad school at UC Davis. He has been with Cuvaison since 2002.
Dan Berger remembers when he was with the LA Times, he named John Thatcher his very first winemaker of the year, in the late 80s or early 90s. John had discovered one of the secrets, that the cooling breezes in Carneros would make great wine. John knew back then that the cool climate regions would make great wine and he was right.
Dan Berger notices the fruit component and the subtle oak component to this Chardonnay, although it tastes dry, because Steve Rogstad did a good job of capturing the acidity. According to Dan it needs two more years. Chardonnay shouldn’t sit all that long but two years would be good.
The vineyard property in Carneros is very hilly and has different slopes and aspects to plant different clones and varieties on. The lowest area is the coldest, which retains acidity. This year was a cool year too, so it had ideal conditions.
Next they taste a 2019 Sauvignon Blanc. Dan says that Sauvignon Blanc suffered from misunderstanding, people did not give it much thought. Today is different, and these wines demonstrate that. Cool climate SV is rare. The cooler Carneros temperatures would preserve the acidity and control the sugars. It has no Malolactic fermentation and no oak. Dan says it’s like the New Zealand style except theirs is more grassy and this is more citrusy with pink grapefruit and lemon verbena flavors. Dan says it is delicious and without sugar. They only make about 1700 cases of this, so for winemaker Steve Rogstad, it is one pleasurable small project among many.
Dan says that the vineyard is very hilly and you have to be ready for that if you take the walking tour. Dan remembers their Merlot and says their Merlot vineyard is one of the best ones in the world. Dan still has a bottle of the Cuvaison 1994 Merlot which he says is superb. Steve is actually planting some more Merlot next year. The cool climate is actually good for it but it demands a lot of care and attention. They also have some Syrah that John Thatcher thought would be a good blender in cold years, but Steve found that it’s so good that they had to bottle it by itself, which they have for the last 16 years.
Dan Berger says that Cuvaison is a project that people should really pay attention to and that if they were better known their prices could be 30% higher.
They have a 2018 Pinot Noir to taste, this one is very young and Dan says it smells like Carneros did 30 years ago. The aromatics are different than Russian River Valley wine. It has a fresh San Marzano tomato smell. It is so young that it doesn’t show all its harmony yet. Dan say put it away for a year and it will grow. It is good to drink now, if decanted, or wait a while. There is just a little leafy note that comes from the woody stems that were in contact with the grapes in fermentation. Dan calls it a grace note that adds complexity. Decant it for 2 hours and you will pick up nuances you didn’t get a first. Carneros has a nice combination of red fruit and black fruit plus spicyness. This distinguishes it from Russian River and the coast. They are not above the fog line, they are down in the fog.
They taste the 2018 Diablo Syrah, named for the soil in that part of the vineyard. It is clay soil that is devilishly hard to farm with hardly any organic matter. The vines struggle in this environment which helps concentrate the fruit. Syrah is a cold climate variety, says Dan, although it does grow well in some warm regions. But from cool regions, the wines are more nuanced. This has a little black pepper, violets and plums. “There’s a lot going on in there,” says Steve Jaxon. “This stuff is not for the lightweights in our crowd,” replies Dan Berger.
Steve Rogstad, winemaker at Cuvaison Winery, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Steve Rogstad was last on the show about a year ago. They are open on the patio by reservation only, 10am-5pm daily. They have a large terrace with about 10 tables. They have also started offering curbside pickup and people can take hikes through the vineyard.
Cuvaison is a family owned winery. It was founded in 1969 and the current owner bought it in 1979 and they planted a vineyard in Carneros. They make Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc but also a little Syrah and Merlot. Their wines are estate grown and bottled. They have different clones of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, so he can experiment with different approaches. They are tasting a 2018 Estate Chardonnay. It is a blend of the different clones that they grow. John Thatcher, his predecessor at Cuvaison, put their Chardonnay on the map back in the early 80s.
Steve Rogstad got into the wine business by first studying literature and going to France to study. He lived in an apartment above a wine shop and became fascinated with it. After that he decided to study winemaking and came to UC Davis. He needed to take science classes, which he did, and then went to grad school at UC Davis. He has been with Cuvaison since 2002.
Dan Berger remembers when he was with the LA Times, he named John Thatcher his very first winemaker of the year, in the late 80s or early 90s. John had discovered one of the secrets, that the cooling breezes in Carneros would make great wine. John knew back then that the cool climate regions would make great wine and he was right.
Dan Berger notices the fruit component and the subtle oak component to this Chardonnay, although it tastes dry, because Steve Rogstad did a good job of capturing the acidity. According to Dan it needs two more years. Chardonnay shouldn't sit all that long but two years would be good.
The vineyard property in Carneros is very hilly and has different slopes and aspects to plant different clones and varieties on. The lowest area is the coldest, which retains acidity. This year was a cool year too, so it had ideal conditions.
Next they taste a 2019 Sauvignon Blanc. Dan says that Sauvignon Blanc suffered from misunderstanding, people did not give it much thought. Today is different, and these wines demonstrate that. Cool climate SV is rare. The cooler Carneros temperatures would preserve the acidity and control the sugars. It has no Malolactic fermentation and no oak. Dan says it's like the New Zealand style except theirs is more grassy and this is more citrusy with pink grapefruit and lemon verbena flavors. Dan says it is delicious and without sugar. They only make about 1700 cases of this, so for winemaker Steve Rogstad, it is one pleasurable small project among many.
Dan says that the vineyard is very hilly and you have to be ready for that if you take the walking tour. Dan remembers their Merlot and says their Merlot vineyard is one of the best ones in the world. Dan still has a bottle of the Cuvaison 1994 Merlot which he says is superb. Steve is actually planting some more Merlot next year. The cool climate is actually good for it but it demands a lot of care and attention. They also have some Syrah that John Thatcher thought would be a good blender in cold years, but Steve found that it's so good that they had to bottle it by itself, which they have for the last 16 years.
Dan Berger says that Cuvaison is a project that people should really pay attention to and that if they were better known their prices could be 30% higher.
They have a 2018 Pinot Noir to taste, this one is very young and Dan says it smells like Carneros did 30 years ago. The aromatics are different than Russian River Valley wine. It has a fresh San Marzano tomato smell. It is so young that it doesn't show all its harmony yet. Dan say put it away for a year and it will grow. It is good to drink now, if decanted,
Joel Aiken, winemaker of Scattered Peaks is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. Barry Herbst and his daughter Emily Herbst are also in the studio today.
Joel Aiken was winemaker at Beaulieu Vineyard for many years. Beaulieu Vineyard, also known as BV, was founded in 1900 by George de la Tour and his wife Fernande. George de la Tour bought some great vineyards in Napa Valley for $100 or $200 an acre, around the turn of the 1900s that are spectacular now. Joel started in 1982 so he was there for their 50th vintage was in 1986. By the time he retired, he was spending more time doing management work rather than making wine and he is happy to be back to making wine.
Joel Aiken and his partner Derek Benham founded Scattered Peaks in 2017 after Joel retired from BV.
They begin with the first of two Scattered Peaks wines, a 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. Joel Aiken talks about how they started by working with the vineyards and getting the right barrels.
Dan Berger has also brought a 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon from BV, made by Joel Aiken back then. It has spent 26 years at the lowest level of Dan’s already cold cellar, at about 60 degrees, year-round.
The two Scattered Peaks wines bear description. The name Scattered Peaks comes from surfing, a favorite activity of Derek Benham, who is Joel Aiken’s partner in the winery. In surfing, it means when the waves are coming in and going in different directions. It reflects his desire to use fruit from different mountain peaks in Napa Valley. One is more for the cellar. The small lot needs another 6-10 years. The other one can go maybe 3 to 10, but either could bear 25. Dan says it hasn’t become Cabernet yet, it is so young. It is also smooth and silky, says Steve, and Dan agrees. That is the quality that made BV wines famous. André Tchelistcheff controlled the tannins enough that you didn’t have roughness. It sells for about $40 per bottle.
Joel Aiken wants to produce wines that are age-worthy, and does not want to make any ordinary wine. Joel remembers working with André Tchelistcheff at BV. He became the first BV winemaker to introduce barrels that were not only American oak, which had been a BV tradition. When Joel Aiken started at BV it was the early 1980s and there were not so many wineries around as there are today. Dan remembers that André was very sharp and insightful, as well as humble. There are lots of BV wines at Bottle Barn. They have single varietals and blends.
There are lots of BV wines at Bottle Barn
Scattered Peaks produces only Cabernet Sauvignon, at least for now. He uses fruit chosen from some of the best vineyards in the Napa Valley, including Morisoli vineyard, which Dan says is one of the best in the valley.
The second of the Scattered Peaks bottles seems more full-bodied than the other one and Dan says it needs more time in the bottle. Dan says that Joel respects the acidity of these wines, which is critical to making them age well. Joel says they won’t be soft and silky from day one, but they will be rewarded later.
And speaking of well-aged wines, the 1994 BV Cabernet that Joel Aiken made 26 years ago has aged beautifully and Steve says, “WOW!”
The subject of Merlot comes up late in the show, about 25 minutes in and Dan Berger gives his summary of the Merlot boom and bust and return.
Joel Aiken, winemaker of Scattered Peaks is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. Barry Herbst and his daughter Emily Herbst are also in the studio today.
Joel Aiken was winemaker at Beaulieu Vineyard for many years. Beaulieu Vineyard, also known as BV, was founded in 1900 by George de la Tour and his wife Fernande. George de la Tour bought some great vineyards in Napa Valley for $100 or $200 an acre, around the turn of the 1900s that are spectacular now. Joel started in 1982 so he was there for their 50th vintage was in 1986. By the time he retired, he was spending more time doing management work rather than making wine and he is happy to be back to making wine.
Joel Aiken and his partner Derek Benham founded Scattered Peaks in 2017 after Joel retired from BV.
They begin with the first of two Scattered Peaks wines, a 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. Joel Aiken talks about how they started by working with the vineyards and getting the right barrels.
Dan Berger has also brought a 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon from BV, made by Joel Aiken back then. It has spent 26 years at the lowest level of Dan's already cold cellar, at about 60 degrees, year-round.
The two Scattered Peaks wines bear description. The name Scattered Peaks comes from surfing, a favorite activity of Derek Benham, who is Joel Aiken’s partner in the winery. In surfing, it means when the waves are coming in and going in different directions. It reflects his desire to use fruit from different mountain peaks in Napa Valley. One is more for the cellar. The small lot needs another 6-10 years. The other one can go maybe 3 to 10, but either could bear 25. Dan says it hasn’t become Cabernet yet, it is so young. It is also smooth and silky, says Steve, and Dan agrees. That is the quality that made BV wines famous. André Tchelistcheff controlled the tannins enough that you didn’t have roughness. It sells for about $40 per bottle.
Joel Aiken wants to produce wines that are age-worthy, and does not want to make any ordinary wine. Joel remembers working with André Tchelistcheff at BV. He became the first BV winemaker to introduce barrels that were not only American oak, which had been a BV tradition. When Joel Aiken started at BV it was the early 1980s and there were not so many wineries around as there are today. Dan remembers that André was very sharp and insightful, as well as humble. There are lots of BV wines at Bottle Barn. They have single varietals and blends.
There are lots of BV wines at Bottle Barn
Scattered Peaks produces only Cabernet Sauvignon, at least for now. He uses fruit chosen from some of the best vineyards in the Napa Valley, including Morisoli vineyard, which Dan says is one of the best in the valley.
The second of the Scattered Peaks bottles seems more full-bodied than the other one and Dan says it needs more time in the bottle. Dan says that Joel respects the acidity of these wines, which is critical to making them age well. Joel says they won't be soft and silky from day one, but they will be rewarded later.
And speaking of well-aged wines, the 1994 BV Cabernet that Joel Aiken made 26 years ago has aged beautifully and Steve says, "WOW!"
The subject of Merlot comes up late in the show, about 25 minutes in and Dan Berger gives his summary of the Merlot boom and bust and return.
Don Huffman
Don Huffman is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. Don produces wine under the Rockville Cellars label and he is also an expert in wine closures. Visit Don Huffman's Twitter page for up-to-the-minute information. Don Huffman also has this Instagram page.
Among other things Don Huffman is the head of Rockville Cellars, a new winery founded in 2018. The name Rockville comes from the name of a small area near Fairfield, between Fairfield and Green Valley. It’s about 750 ft. elevation and the fields are full of large red rocks. They have estate grown wines, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. They also make other brands, like the Sir Pig, which is a Rosé made from Grenache and Counoise grapes. Counoise s a rare variety known for its acidity and floral flavors, which is hard to handle because it oxidizes quickly. The name Sir Pig comes from a nickname he had in 4H where he raised pigs.
Don Huffman is a wine closure expert. He was a creative director in the ad business for 25 years and his first job out of college was for an ad agency whose client Nomacork still makes top quality synthetic corks for wine bottles. With that account, his company became Vinventions. He is the director of quality and director of sales. He is the first director of sales there who is also a winemaker. The Sir Pig Rosé is very dry, with earthy aromatics and peach/stone fruit flavors. It is so dry it needs some food. It is unfiltered, so it also has some sediment in the bottle. When he filtered it, he almost lost all its color, so he made it a coarse-filtered wine.
Suisun Valley, where he is located, is close to Napa County, about eleven miles away. He also has a Swope Family Estates wine named after his grandmother. It is a tribute to his family who came to Suisun valley as farm workers in the early 1900s. Visit their website to see a beautiful old photo of his family, taken in 1913.
The wine is a Tempranillo, a grape grown mostly in Spain. The Spanish usually age it two years before releasing it. This is a 2017. He calls it a fire vintage. The fire stopped 80 yards from his winery. He harvested on Saturday then had to flee for six days. When he got back to his harvested grapes, some fermentation was already happening. He used neutral barrels and let the variety speak. It’s not very complex and easy drinking.
At Mancas corner, in Fairfield, there are a couple of small local business worth noting: The Mancas Steakhouse is a great restaurant. The Filling Station is a place that offers many tastings from wine producers who don’t have their own tasting rooms.
Don Huffman has a carbonic macerated Merlot from 2017, also a Swope label. He explains what carbonic maceration is. Traditionally, the grapes are crushed and the juice is in contact with the skins. In carbonic maceration, you put the whole clusters in the tank. It’s called “inter-cellular respiration” the fermentation begins inside each berry. When you open the vat back up in a month, the berries are fully fermented. You can pop one in your mouth and it’s 14% alcohol.
Dan explains that people made a mistake with Merlot, a couple of decades ago, planting it in a lot in the wrong places, and for a while, this gave Merlot a bad reputation. This wine has good acidity, it needs to be decanted and left for about an hour. They make barely 650 cases per year.
20 years ago, there was a crisis in the closure industry. Many alternative closures sprang up making different cork alternatives. His company Nomacork makes the latest generation of high quality corks designed to last 25 years. Steve Jaxon asks Don about screw caps. Don says that screwcaps are convenient but he describes other factors than just the cap, that determine how well it works. For example there are two types of liners, one is tighter than the other. They explain how a winery has to make an informed choice about bottling and closure ba...
Don Huffman
Don Huffman is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. Don produces wine under the Rockville Cellars label and he is also an expert in wine closures. Visit Don Huffman’s Twitter page for up-to-the-minute information. Don Huffman also has this Instagram page.
Among other things Don Huffman is the head of Rockville Cellars, a new winery founded in 2018. The name Rockville comes from the name of a small area near Fairfield, between Fairfield and Green Valley. It’s about 750 ft. elevation and the fields are full of large red rocks. They have estate grown wines, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. They also make other brands, like the Sir Pig, which is a Rosé made from Grenache and Counoise grapes. Counoise s a rare variety known for its acidity and floral flavors, which is hard to handle because it oxidizes quickly. The name Sir Pig comes from a nickname he had in 4H where he raised pigs.
Don Huffman is a wine closure expert. He was a creative director in the ad business for 25 years and his first job out of college was for an ad agency whose client Nomacork still makes top quality synthetic corks for wine bottles. With that account, his company became Vinventions. He is the director of quality and director of sales. He is the first director of sales there who is also a winemaker. The Sir Pig Rosé is very dry, with earthy aromatics and peach/stone fruit flavors. It is so dry it needs some food. It is unfiltered, so it also has some sediment in the bottle. When he filtered it, he almost lost all its color, so he made it a coarse-filtered wine.
Suisun Valley, where he is located, is close to Napa County, about eleven miles away. He also has a Swope Family Estates wine named after his grandmother. It is a tribute to his family who came to Suisun valley as farm workers in the early 1900s. Visit their website to see a beautiful old photo of his family, taken in 1913.
The wine is a Tempranillo, a grape grown mostly in Spain. The Spanish usually age it two years before releasing it. This is a 2017. He calls it a fire vintage. The fire stopped 80 yards from his winery. He harvested on Saturday then had to flee for six days. When he got back to his harvested grapes, some fermentation was already happening. He used neutral barrels and let the variety speak. It’s not very complex and easy drinking.
At Mancas corner, in Fairfield, there are a couple of small local business worth noting: The Mancas Steakhouse is a great restaurant. The Filling Station is a place that offers many tastings from wine producers who don’t have their own tasting rooms.
Don Huffman has a carbonic macerated Merlot from 2017, also a Swope label. He explains what carbonic maceration is. Traditionally, the grapes are crushed and the juice is in contact with the skins. In carbonic maceration, you put the whole clusters in the tank. It’s called “inter-cellular respiration” the fermentation begins inside each berry. When you open the vat back up in a month, the berries are fully fermented. You can pop one in your mouth and it’s 14% alcohol.
Dan explains that people made a mistake with Merlot, a couple of decades ago, planting it in a lot in the wrong places, and for a while, this gave Merlot a bad reputation. This wine has good acidity, it needs to be decanted and left for about an hour. They make barely 650 cases per year.
20 years ago, there was a crisis in the closure industry. Many alternative closures sprang up making different cork alternatives. His company Nomacork makes the latest generation of high quality corks designed to last 25 years. Steve Jaxon asks Don about screw caps. Don says that screwcaps are convenient but he describes other factors than just the cap, that determine how well it works. For example there are two types of liners, one is tighter than the other. They explain how a winery has to make an informed choice about bottling and closure based on many variables.
Erica Stancliff is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Erica Stancliff is the winemaker for Trombetta Family Wines, which she founded with her mother. Dan Berger is also back in the studio, after Coronavirus quarantine. During the time, he opened a lot of bottles from his extensive cellar. About half of them were no good but the other half were good.
Erica Stancliff was on California Wine Country twice last year, in February 2019, together with her mother Rickey Trombetta, and again, with Tom Gendall, Assistant Winemaker at Cline Family Cellars, in a July 2019 show about Petaluma Gap wines. Trombetta is her mother’s maiden name. They started the winery in 2010 after Erica graduated from Fresno St. with a degree in enology. Paul Hobbs Paul Hobbs was Erica Stancliff's mentor and consulting winemaker for the first few years. After extensive experience internationally and in California for various producers, she took over as winemaker for Trombetta Family Wines in 2014. Paul Hobbs has a great reputation, having worked with David Ramey at Simi Winery and elsewhere. Dan Berger says Paul Hobbs is very respected. He is the guy who lifted the Argentine wine industry up from its bootstraps. Dan says he can do everything, with every varietal. Erica says he was a great person to learn from.
Fresno State Winery Tailgate White
Speaking of Argentina, Dan says that Argentina makes very good wines that are produced at a much lower cost than here, so they are very inexpensive to us. Erica remembers that they did not have all the technological advances and other choices available there that we have in California. Top University Wine Programs in the US Erica got a degree in Viticulture and Enology from California State University, Fresno aka Fresno State. She chose the school because at the time, it was the only college campus that had a bonded winery. They had over 200 acres of farmland and their classes and exams were all very practical, from vineyard through winery all the way to sales.
UC Davis and Fresno St. are the two most famous university wine programs. Others are Purdue, Mississippi St. and Cornell, with Cal Poly San Luis Obispo the newest one coming on. UC Davis is the oldest program, it was founded after the second world war. Petaluma Gap They taste a 2018 Dutton Goldfield Riesling, from the Petaluma Gap. Dan Berger says that the emergence of the Petaluma Gap AVA is a very important development. Petaluma Gap is hot by day with cool evenings, sea breezes and foggy mornings. The AVA is driven by its natural topography, which creates a wind tunnel. Dan Berger says that good acidity will always be a characteristic of Petaluma Gap wines. “This wine wouldn’t grow anywhere else to deliver this character. This character comes from the Gap. This area is going to become world famous,” says Dan Berger.
Erica Stancliff says, “As the president of the Petaluma Gap Winegrowers Alliance, I’m loving every word I’m hearing.” “This is world class stuff. This is not just good or great, this is world class. This is right up there with the very best wine made anywhere.” –Dan Berger on Petaluma Gap wines Erica tells that Petaluma Gap sells fruit to winemakers in Napa and Sonoma counties that love using their Pinot and Chardonnay. They have a longer growing season than anywhere else around here. They pick about two weeks later than Russian River. Dave Ramey makes a killer Syrah there too.
Dan Berger reminds us about what Jeff Gaffner from Black Kite said recently on this show about his Petaluma Gap Pinot.
All the great Pinot Noir specialists use fruit from Petaluma Gap, Erica names Gary Farrell, Kosta Browne, Three Sticks, Black Kite and others.There are also a few great wineries located there, Blue Wing and Keller Estate she mentions.
Erica describes the Petaluma Gap area. Some parts are at higher and lower elevation, some a little more in the fog line. They harvest at least two weeks later,
Erica Stancliff is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Erica Stancliff is the winemaker for Trombetta Family Wines, which she founded with her mother. Dan Berger is also back in the studio, after Coronavirus quarantine. During the time, he opened a lot of bottles from his extensive cellar. About half of them were no good but the other half were good.
Erica Stancliff was on California Wine Country twice last year, in February 2019, together with her mother Rickey Trombetta, and again, with Tom Gendall, Assistant Winemaker at Cline Family Cellars, in a July 2019 show about Petaluma Gap wines. Trombetta is her mother’s maiden name. They started the winery in 2010 after Erica graduated from Fresno St. with a degree in enology.
Paul Hobbs Paul Hobbs was Erica Stancliff’s mentor and consulting winemaker for the first few years. After extensive experience internationally and in California for various producers, she took over as winemaker for Trombetta Family Wines in 2014. Paul Hobbs has a great reputation, having worked with David Ramey at Simi Winery and elsewhere. Dan Berger says Paul Hobbs is very respected. He is the guy who lifted the Argentine wine industry up from its bootstraps. Dan says he can do everything, with every varietal. Erica says he was a great person to learn from.
Fresno State Winery Tailgate White
Speaking of Argentina, Dan says that Argentina makes very good wines that are produced at a much lower cost than here, so they are very inexpensive to us. Erica remembers that they did not have all the technological advances and other choices available there that we have in California.
Top University Wine Programs in the US Erica got a degree in Viticulture and Enology from California State University, Fresno aka Fresno State. She chose the school because at the time, it was the only college campus that had a bonded winery. They had over 200 acres of farmland and their classes and exams were all very practical, from vineyard through winery all the way to sales.
UC Davis and Fresno St. are the two most famous university wine programs. Others are Purdue, Mississippi St. and Cornell, with Cal Poly San Luis Obispo the newest one coming on. UC Davis is the oldest program, it was founded after the second world war.
Petaluma Gap They taste a 2018 Dutton Goldfield Riesling, from the Petaluma Gap. Dan Berger says that the emergence of the Petaluma Gap AVA is a very important development. Petaluma Gap is hot by day with cool evenings, sea breezes and foggy mornings. The AVA is driven by its natural topography, which creates a wind tunnel. Dan Berger says that good acidity will always be a characteristic of Petaluma Gap wines. “This wine wouldn’t grow anywhere else to deliver this character. This character comes from the Gap. This area is going to become world famous,” says Dan Berger.
Erica Stancliff says, “As the president of the Petaluma Gap Winegrowers Alliance, I’m loving every word I’m hearing.”
“This is world class stuff. This is not just good or great, this is world class. This is right up there with the very best wine made anywhere.” –Dan Berger on Petaluma Gap wines
Erica tells that Petaluma Gap sells fruit to winemakers in Napa and Sonoma counties that love using their Pinot and Chardonnay. They have a longer growing season than anywhere else around here. They pick about two weeks later than Russian River. Dave Ramey makes a killer Syrah there too.
Dan Berger reminds us about what Jeff Gaffner from Black Kite said recently on this show about his Petaluma Gap Pinot.
All the great Pinot Noir specialists use fruit from Petaluma Gap, Erica names Gary Farrell, Kosta Browne, Three Sticks, Black Kite and others.There are also a few great wineries located there, Blue Wing and Keller Estate she mentions.
Erica describes the Petaluma Gap area. Some parts are at higher and lower elevation, some a little more in the fog line. They harvest at least two weeks later, because they have a longer growing season without losing the acid. Dan says that’s the acid that makes the wine.
They have a 2018 Petaluma Gap Chardonnay from Trombetta Family Wines. Dan says it is world class, up there with the best white Burgundies. For comparison, Erica also brought two other Chardonnays from Petaluma Gap, which come from different elevations. The Pfendler is a bit higher, about 1200 ft. elevation, and it’s above the fog line. And she has a Gap’s Crown Chardonnay, around 500-600 ft. elevation, in the fog line. “That difference in elevation and tilt of vineyard orientation changes these two wines, but at the same time they have beautiful acid, beautiful fruit and there’s texture to them. And that is Petaluma Gap in a nutshell to me: Acid, Flavor and Texture.”
The next tasting is the Pinot Noir. This Gap’s Crown Pinot Noir was the first wine that Trombetta Family Wines produced and Erica remembers it fondly. She talks about the brunt force of the wind in the evenings. Erica is also winemaker for Pfendler and makes wine from their three vineyards that are at three different elevations on Sonoma Mountain. The place is magic, says Erica. Dan says Pinot Noir is rich, without being clumsy. The secret to that is the acidity. The raspberry flavors are more intense in these wines than in the ones from Russian River Valley AVA.
Greg La Follette is back on California Wine Country today, with Steve Jaxon. Dan Berger is still away but will be back. It’s the first proper show in several months, after many weeks off due to Coronavirus precautions.
Greg La Follette runs Alquimista Cellars today and he has been in the wine industry since 1984. Before that he was an early researcher on the Aids virus. He wanted to make wine so he moved from LA to Davis and studied there. His thesis was on how Burgundy winemaking techniques affect mouth feel. “And the rest is history.” In 1984 he worked at Simi Winery as a Guest Scientist. Then he worked with André Tchelistcheff at BV and many others, including working for Kendall-Jackson when they called him to bring La Crema back out of bankruptcy. He had a winery under his own name La Follette and then sold it. The new owners wanted to pronounce it “la-foll-ETTE” differently than the way he pronounces his own name, “la-FOLL-ette”. Greg mentions that the famous Bob La Follette of Wisconsin politics (a century ago) is an ancestor of his.
Alquimista Cellars bottles with label art by local artists.
Alquimista Cellars is his new label but he is using most of the same growers he has worked with before at various stops in his career, including some he has worked with for over 30 years. Greg says the name Alquimista was foisted on him. André was called the alchemist and some people called him that too. It also has the advantage of not resembling in any way the names of his clients. During the Coronavirus madness Greg spent a lot of time in the vineyards tending the vines and taking care of some clients, including one in upstate New York in the Finger Lakes district.
They taste a 2018 Alquimista Cellars Lorenzo Vineyard Chardonnay. Their wines are mainly available through their website and wine club subscribers. They are also in a few choice local restaurants, such as Single Thread, Farmhouse Inn and Terrapin Creek. Greg started working with the Lorenzo vineyard in 1993. It is one of the oldest Chardonnay vineyards in the Russian River Valley.
Each bottle of Alquimista Cellars wine has unique art work, which has been commissioned from different Sonoma County artists. Greg La Follette says that he feels it is important for him to give back and supporting local artists is one way to do that. They also support the Laguna de Santa Rosa Foundation and others.
They mostly make Chardonnay and Pinot Noir but they also make a Pinot Meunier and has brought a 2018 of that. It is a very rare wine, normally a sparkling wine grape, lively and spritely. He also brought the Confluence, a wine made from 3 vineyards.
The Pinot Meunier is a table wine, there are no bubbles in this wine. Usually it is used in sparkling wines and was until recently the most planted varietal in the Champagne region of France. Greg describes how his Pinot Meunier is made, by whole cluster fermentation, so each berry is a separate fermentation, and to accomplish this, they actually stomp the grapes with their feet. His kids grew up working in the winery and this was the most coveted job.
“It’s a fruit riot in the mouth.” – Greg La Follette, describing the Pinot Meunier.
He does it differently than anyone else. First they load up the fermenter into the pickup truck and they drive to the vineyard. They clip the cluster and gently deposit them into the fermenter. It’s a very special pick.
Before the end, they taste the Confluence Pinot Noir, a blend from three different vineyards. One is the Lorenzo vineyard, Hawk’s Roost Vineyard and the third the Mes Filles vineyard. All the vineyards that Alquimista Cellars works with are listed on their website at this page. The Confluence is Pinot Noir with some Chardonnay blended in. This is something Greg has done before, some of his most famous and successful wines were reds with Chardonnay blended in. Some winemakers objected but they were overruled because these wines kept winning first place in the blind tastings.
Greg La Follette is back on California Wine Country today, with Steve Jaxon. Dan Berger is still away but will be back. It's the first proper show in several months, after many weeks off due to Coronavirus precautions.
Greg La Follette runs Alquimista Cellars today and he has been in the wine industry since 1984. Before that he was an early researcher on the Aids virus. He wanted to make wine so he moved from LA to Davis and studied there. His thesis was on how Burgundy winemaking techniques affect mouth feel. "And the rest is history." In 1984 he worked at Simi Winery as a Guest Scientist. Then he worked with André Tchelistcheff at BV and many others, including working for Kendall-Jackson when they called him to bring La Crema back out of bankruptcy. He had a winery under his own name La Follette and then sold it. The new owners wanted to pronounce it "la-foll-ETTE" differently than the way he pronounces his own name, "la-FOLL-ette". Greg mentions that the famous Bob La Follette of Wisconsin politics (a century ago) is an ancestor of his.
Alquimista Cellars bottles with label art by local artists.
Alquimista Cellars is his new label but he is using most of the same growers he has worked with before at various stops in his career, including some he has worked with for over 30 years. Greg says the name Alquimista was foisted on him. André was called the alchemist and some people called him that too. It also has the advantage of not resembling in any way the names of his clients. During the Coronavirus madness Greg spent a lot of time in the vineyards tending the vines and taking care of some clients, including one in upstate New York in the Finger Lakes district.
They taste a 2018 Alquimista Cellars Lorenzo Vineyard Chardonnay. Their wines are mainly available through their website and wine club subscribers. They are also in a few choice local restaurants, such as Single Thread, Farmhouse Inn and Terrapin Creek. Greg started working with the Lorenzo vineyard in 1993. It is one of the oldest Chardonnay vineyards in the Russian River Valley.
Each bottle of Alquimista Cellars wine has unique art work, which has been commissioned from different Sonoma County artists. Greg La Follette says that he feels it is important for him to give back and supporting local artists is one way to do that. They also support the Laguna de Santa Rosa Foundation and others.
They mostly make Chardonnay and Pinot Noir but they also make a Pinot Meunier and has brought a 2018 of that. It is a very rare wine, normally a sparkling wine grape, lively and spritely. He also brought the Confluence, a wine made from 3 vineyards.
The Pinot Meunier is a table wine, there are no bubbles in this wine. Usually it is used in sparkling wines and was until recently the most planted varietal in the Champagne region of France. Greg describes how his Pinot Meunier is made, by whole cluster fermentation, so each berry is a separate fermentation, and to accomplish this, they actually stomp the grapes with their feet. His kids grew up working in the winery and this was the most coveted job. "It's a fruit riot in the mouth." - Greg La Follette, describing the Pinot Meunier. He does it differently than anyone else. First they load up the fermenter into the pickup truck and they drive to the vineyard. They clip the cluster and gently deposit them into the fermenter. It's a very special pick.
Before the end, they taste the Confluence Pinot Noir, a blend from three different vineyards. One is the Lorenzo vineyard, Hawk's Roost Vineyard and the third the Mes Filles vineyard. All the vineyards that Alquimista Cellars works with are listed on their website at this page. The Confluence is Pinot Noir with some Chardonnay blended in. This is something Greg has done before, some of his most famous and successful wines were reds with Chardonnay blended in. Some winemakers objected but they were overruled because these wines kept winning first place in the bl...
Merry Edwards
Today's California Wine Country podcast is another repeat show in our "Women in Wine" series, because there is no new show today, as our regular schedule is still subject to interruptions due to Coronavirus issues. This episode with Merry Edwards and Heidi van der Mehden was first recorded and broadcast on June 26, 2019.
Merry Edwards and Heidi von der Mehden are our guests today on California Wine Country. Tom Simoneau is in with Steve Jaxon while Dan Berger is away this week.
Merry Edwards owns Merry Edwards Winery and Heidi von der Mehden is the winemaker there. Tom declares that the world is a better place because Merry Edwards is in it. The last fifty years have been a golden age of California wine. Ever since the 1976 tasting (the famous “Judgement of Paris” where some Californian versions of French varietals were proven to be as good as and even better than their French counterparts). She was responsible for several important innovations. Tom mentions cold fermentation, cleanliness in the wineries and the reaction to phylloxera. She did research into lead capsules and she found that lead was getting into wine. Her research grant was from the Wine Institute and her research results were held back for a year.
Heidi van der Mehden
In the mid 1970s she went to France and learned about their research into clones. She brought this information back here and found that people were convinced that the dirt was more important and they didn’t want to study clones at first. Of course this all changed pretty soon thereafter (by the 1981 vintage) and clone research quickly became a critical part of the wine business here. She went to work at Matanzas Creek and planted a five-clone vineyard. The Chardonnay went for $30 and the Merlot $70. Tom remembers people thought that was outrageously high at the time.
2017 Russian River Sauvignon Blanc from Merry Edwards Winery. It's 100% barrel fermented with about 18% new oak. They stir the lees twice a week. It stays in the barrels for six months. Others bottle in November but they are still stirring and don't bottle until the following April and don't release it until the next Fall. Merry Edwards finds that this Sauvignon Blanc ages well.
Merry Edwards wines are available at the tasting room and online and in a few stores in California. The winery is in Sebastopol near the famous Underwood restaurant.
Merry Edwards
Today’s California Wine Country podcast is another repeat show in our “Women in Wine” series, because there is no new show today, as our regular schedule is still subject to interruptions due to Coronavirus issues. This episode with Merry Edwards and Heidi van der Mehden was first recorded and broadcast on June 26, 2019.
Merry Edwards and Heidi von der Mehden are our guests today on California Wine Country. Tom Simoneau is in with Steve Jaxon while Dan Berger is away this week.
Merry Edwards owns Merry Edwards Winery and Heidi von der Mehden is the winemaker there. Tom declares that the world is a better place because Merry Edwards is in it. The last fifty years have been a golden age of California wine. Ever since the 1976 tasting (the famous “Judgement of Paris” where some Californian versions of French varietals were proven to be as good as and even better than their French counterparts). She was responsible for several important innovations. Tom mentions cold fermentation, cleanliness in the wineries and the reaction to phylloxera. She did research into lead capsules and she found that lead was getting into wine. Her research grant was from the Wine Institute and her research results were held back for a year.
Heidi van der Mehden
In the mid 1970s she went to France and learned about their research into clones. She brought this information back here and found that people were convinced that the dirt was more important and they didn’t want to study clones at first. Of course this all changed pretty soon thereafter (by the 1981 vintage) and clone research quickly became a critical part of the wine business here. She went to work at Matanzas Creek and planted a five-clone vineyard. The Chardonnay went for $30 and the Merlot $70. Tom remembers people thought that was outrageously high at the time.
2017 Russian River Sauvignon Blanc from Merry Edwards Winery. It’s 100% barrel fermented with about 18% new oak. They stir the lees twice a week. It stays in the barrels for six months. Others bottle in November but they are still stirring and don’t bottle until the following April and don’t release it until the next Fall. Merry Edwards finds that this Sauvignon Blanc ages well.
Merry Edwards wines are available at the tasting room and online and in a few stores in California. The winery is in Sebastopol near the famous Underwood restaurant.
Oded Shakked
Oded Shakked, owner of Longboard Vineyards, is back on California Wine Country this week, and we also have Tom Simoneau on the phone from his vineyard in Alexander Valley. Tom and Oded were last on California Wine Country in person together on March 28, 2018 (when the picture above was taken). This time due to Coronavirus restrictions, everyone is on the phone.
Tom describes the vineyard as of today, where it is 100 degrees, down from 104 a half an hour ago. “We are through bloom and fruit is setting. This has been one schizophrenic Spring. (…) It will be an interesting year… Mother nature throws something at us a little different every year, so she’s in charge, so we just do what we do.”
Oded is calling from the cellar where it is 68 degrees. He calls his winery, “a deliberate accident.” He grew up in Israel and decided to follow his interest in surfing. He traveled to France to surf, got to know wine, and heard about the UC Davis wine program. So he came to California to attended that program and never looked back. He worked for a sparkling wine house in Napa, for the Jordan family as well as a job a Chateau Lafitte in France, then he settled in Healdsburg. Now he has lived here longer than anywhere else.
Longboard is a reflection of his love for surfing. Longboard surfing is more about flowing movements and balance and he sees parallels between surfing and winemaking. Tom Simoneau loves the Longboard sparkling wines. Oded describes the process that yielded those complex flavors. From about 7:00 he gives a detailed explanation of the process of making sparkling wine.
The Malbec is 2017 vintage. It is one of the five main Bordeaux varieties, which are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Tom grows some Malbec. Oded likes the more blue fruit, rather than red fruit. You don’t see a lot of Malbec by itself, since most of it ends up in high-end Meritage blends. It has a little herb and mineral flavors with a broad mid-palette and a long finish. Oded sees Balance as the key similarity between surfing and winemaking.
Longboard Vineyards has limited seating outside, by reservation. They are also selling wine for outside pickup. One can stop by and purchase, or order ahead. But they can’t do tastings at the bar as they normally do. Tom mentions that they are located in what used to be a cannery then it was Clos du Bois facility. The orange awning is their visual marker. Oded drives a restored 1951 Ford Country Squire wagon, too.
Oded Shakked
Oded Shakked, owner of Longboard Vineyards, is back on California Wine Country this week, and we also have Tom Simoneau on the phone from his vineyard in Alexander Valley. Tom and Oded were last on California Wine Country in person together on March 28, 2018 (when the picture above was taken). This time due to Coronavirus restrictions, everyone is on the phone.
Tom describes the vineyard as of today, where it is 100 degrees, down from 104 a half an hour ago. "We are through bloom and fruit is setting. This has been one schizophrenic Spring. (...) It will be an interesting year... Mother nature throws something at us a little different every year, so she's in charge, so we just do what we do."
Oded is calling from the cellar where it is 68 degrees. He calls his winery, "a deliberate accident." He grew up in Israel and decided to follow his interest in surfing. He traveled to France to surf, got to know wine, and heard about the UC Davis wine program. So he came to California to attended that program and never looked back. He worked for a sparkling wine house in Napa, for the Jordan family as well as a job a Chateau Lafitte in France, then he settled in Healdsburg. Now he has lived here longer than anywhere else.
Longboard is a reflection of his love for surfing. Longboard surfing is more about flowing movements and balance and he sees parallels between surfing and winemaking. Tom Simoneau loves the Longboard sparkling wines. Oded describes the process that yielded those complex flavors. From about 7:00 he gives a detailed explanation of the process of making sparkling wine.
The Malbec is 2017 vintage. It is one of the five main Bordeaux varieties, which are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Tom grows some Malbec. Oded likes the more blue fruit, rather than red fruit. You don't see a lot of Malbec by itself, since most of it ends up in high-end Meritage blends. It has a little herb and mineral flavors with a broad mid-palette and a long finish. Oded sees Balance as the key similarity between surfing and winemaking.
Longboard Vineyards has limited seating outside, by reservation. They are also selling wine for outside pickup. One can stop by and purchase, or order ahead. But they can't do tastings at the bar as they normally do. Tom mentions that they are located in what used to be a cannery then it was Clos du Bois facility. The orange awning is their visual marker. Oded drives a restored 1951 Ford Country Squire wagon, too.
Julien Fayard, Somnium winemaker.
Karen Hart from North Bay Biz magazine joins Steve Jaxon today on California Wine Country, to talk about Danica Patrick’s new winery Somnium, which is the cover story in the May 2020 issue of the magazine, the Women in Business issue. Somnium means “dream” in Latin and the name represents Danica Patrick’s dream of having a winery.
Barry Herbst, the wine buyer at our sponsor Bottle Barn, speaks to Steve Jaxon about how Bottle Barn is operating with online ordering and pick-up, over these last several weeks of Coronavirus confinement. Check out the numerous online specials and sign up for their mailing list at their website for exclusive special offers.
We also have two guests from Somnium Wine today, winemaker Julien Fayard and GM Tracy Smith.
Danica Patrick acquired the property in 2009 and planted the vineyard in 2011. Their first vintage was 2014 which was released in 2017, so the label has been out in the market for three years now.
Julien Fayard was born and raised in France and came to California in 2006, as a winemaker for different Napa Valley estate wineries. He says Somnium is a small estate but very “radical” in its exposure. This allows him to make Cabernet Sauvignon with a lot of structure and power. He goes on to say that it is fun to accompany Danica Patrick, as the owner, through a transition out of racing and into “being a farmer.”
Tracy Smith, GM of Somnium Wine
Julien describes the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon that they are tasting, as a vintage with a lot of darkness, power and concentration. This comes from the estate being very hilly. So if you like big structured powerful Cabernet, this is it.
They also taste a 2019 Napa Valley Rosé, which Steve Jaxon says is, “…just gorgeous!” Julien says it is also made with estate-grown fruit. He grew up in Provence and on the south coast of France where he jokes the Rosé, “…is cheaper than water there.”
Tracy Smith tells about growing up in Napa Valley with wine being made all around her since childhood. This gave her some exposure to all aspects of the wine business and prepared her for her current role as the GM of the winery.
Karen Hart likes the label and the fact that Danica Patrick did not put her name on the label, which Tracy Smith says was a deliberate choice to let the wine speak or itself. Tracy points out the red dot over the letter I in the name on the label, which represents a “You Are Here” dot on a map. It is meant to encourage enjoyment of the wine in the present moment.
Other than the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Rosé, they make a little bit of Sauvignon Blanc but it’s barrel aged, so has a little more structure than usual. They will be developing their line in the next two or three years. Tracy says they have a great working relationship as a team of proprietor, GM and winemaker.
https://bottlebarn.com/
Julien Fayard, Somnium winemaker.
Karen Hart from North Bay Biz magazine joins Steve Jaxon today on California Wine Country, to talk about Danica Patrick's new winery Somnium, which is the cover story in the May 2020 issue of the magazine, the Women in Business issue. Somnium means "dream" in Latin and the name represents Danica Patrick's dream of having a winery.
Barry Herbst, the wine buyer at our sponsor Bottle Barn, speaks to Steve Jaxon about how Bottle Barn is operating with online ordering and pick-up, over these last several weeks of Coronavirus confinement. Check out the numerous online specials and sign up for their mailing list at their website for exclusive special offers.
We also have two guests from Somnium Wine today, winemaker Julien Fayard and GM Tracy Smith.
Danica Patrick acquired the property in 2009 and planted the vineyard in 2011. Their first vintage was 2014 which was released in 2017, so the label has been out in the market for three years now.
Julien Fayard was born and raised in France and came to California in 2006, as a winemaker for different Napa Valley estate wineries. He says Somnium is a small estate but very "radical" in its exposure. This allows him to make Cabernet Sauvignon with a lot of structure and power. He goes on to say that it is fun to accompany Danica Patrick, as the owner, through a transition out of racing and into "being a farmer."
Tracy Smith, GM of Somnium Wine
Julien describes the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon that they are tasting, as a vintage with a lot of darkness, power and concentration. This comes from the estate being very hilly. So if you like big structured powerful Cabernet, this is it.
They also taste a 2019 Napa Valley Rosé, which Steve Jaxon says is, "...just gorgeous!" Julien says it is also made with estate-grown fruit. He grew up in Provence and on the south coast of France where he jokes the Rosé, "...is cheaper than water there."
Tracy Smith tells about growing up in Napa Valley with wine being made all around her since childhood. This gave her some exposure to all aspects of the wine business and prepared her for her current role as the GM of the winery.
Karen Hart likes the label and the fact that Danica Patrick did not put her name on the label, which Tracy Smith says was a deliberate choice to let the wine speak or itself. Tracy points out the red dot over the letter I in the name on the label, which represents a "You Are Here" dot on a map. It is meant to encourage enjoyment of the wine in the present moment.
Other than the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Rosé, they make a little bit of Sauvignon Blanc but it's barrel aged, so has a little more structure than usual. They will be developing their line in the next two or three years. Tracy says they have a great working relationship as a team of proprietor, GM and winemaker.
https://bottlebarn.com/
John Jordan
John Jordan, CEO of Jordan Winery, joins Steve Jaxon on California Wine Country, by telephone. Also calling in is Tom Simoneau. They will do a long distance tasting of a Jordan Chardonnay and a Cabernet Sauvignon, John Jordan also talks about his Sonoma Safe initiative, where he hopes to help conduct a safe reopening of Sonoma County hospitality businesses. Here is an article in the Press-Democrat about Jordan Winery’s plans for reopening.
John Jordan talks about plans for reopening that Jordan Winery has prepared, which include organized hikes around its beautiful property followed by outdoor lunches. He mentions the importance of the hospitality industry in Sonoma County and that “…the best part of Sonoma County is being outside.”
They aren’t allowed to provide table service yet, so instead, along with admission to a four-mile hike, visitors get a picnic basket with a bottle of Chardonnay and one of Cabernet, and some tasty morsels, to be enjoyed in the great outdoors. You need to visit the Jordan Winery website to make reservations. All of their visits to their Alexander Valley location are by appointment only.
Today’s Tastings: * 2016 Jordan Russian River Valley Chardonnay * 2018 Jordan Alexander Valley Cabernet blend
John Jordan has sent two bottles to both Steve Jaxon and Tom Simoneau, so they will all taste the same wines from their respective locations. The first is a 2018 Jordan Russian River Valley Chardonnay. Tom says that this Chardonnay reminds him of when Jordan decided to favor the leaner style of Chardonnay. It reminds Tom of the French style, only 12% malolactic fermentation and 46% fermented in stainless tanks. John Jordan says that this is a surprising wine. The technique brings out the crispness and minerality, which is not the typical California style.
This is the time of year when they release their wines, so that 2018 Chardonnay and the 2016 Cabernet, which they will now taste, are showing up in restaurants now.
The 2016 Alexander Valley Cabernet also reflects Jordan’s French origins. Their style of Cabernet lets the terroir do the talking. They never chased the trend of the 1990s and early 2000s of making thick jammy wines. He never felt it went with food well. His Cabernet has lower alcohol, so it’s more like a Bordeaux than Napa style. Tom Simoneau notes that the alcohol is only 13.8 or 13.9%. In the true French tradition, the varietals are actually blended, with 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec. So, you could call it a Meritage, where each varietal brings its own characteristics to the blend. Tom suggests this is a good bottle to save for a kid’s 21st birthday.
John Jordan has written an op-ed for the Close to Home section of the Press-Democrat to describe Sonoma Safe. This requires community involvement and people should avoid “one size fits all” solutions. Instead, he encourages people to take control of their situation and figure out how to operate safely. That means being creative and clever. The website has ways to share ideas and foster cooperation between businesses and government. Tom Simoneau points out that John Jordan also has the John Jordan Foundation which made a contribution to Sonoma Family Meal. This organization pays restaurants to provide meals for hungry people, so that helps keep some restaurant employees in place, as well as keeping the supply chain going while feeding people, so it works on three levels.
Jordan Winery is located at 1474 Alexander Valley Road, which is also Hwy 128, about a couple miles east of Healdsburg Ave. Remember, reservations are required.
John Jordan
John Jordan, CEO of Jordan Winery, joins Steve Jaxon on California Wine Country, by telephone. Also calling in is Tom Simoneau. They will do a long distance tasting of a Jordan Chardonnay and a Cabernet Sauvignon, John Jordan also talks about his Sonoma Safe initiative, where he hopes to help conduct a safe reopening of Sonoma County hospitality businesses. Here is an article in the Press-Democrat about Jordan Winery's plans for reopening.
John Jordan talks about plans for reopening that Jordan Winery has prepared, which include organized hikes around its beautiful property followed by outdoor lunches. He mentions the importance of the hospitality industry in Sonoma County and that "...the best part of Sonoma County is being outside."
They aren't allowed to provide table service yet, so instead, along with admission to a four-mile hike, visitors get a picnic basket with a bottle of Chardonnay and one of Cabernet, and some tasty morsels, to be enjoyed in the great outdoors. You need to visit the Jordan Winery website to make reservations. All of their visits to their Alexander Valley location are by appointment only. Today's Tastings:
2016 Jordan Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2018 Jordan Alexander Valley Cabernet blend
John Jordan has sent two bottles to both Steve Jaxon and Tom Simoneau, so they will all taste the same wines from their respective locations. The first is a 2018 Jordan Russian River Valley Chardonnay. Tom says that this Chardonnay reminds him of when Jordan decided to favor the leaner style of Chardonnay. It reminds Tom of the French style, only 12% malolactic fermentation and 46% fermented in stainless tanks. John Jordan says that this is a surprising wine. The technique brings out the crispness and minerality, which is not the typical California style.
This is the time of year when they release their wines, so that 2018 Chardonnay and the 2016 Cabernet, which they will now taste, are showing up in restaurants now.
The 2016 Alexander Valley Cabernet also reflects Jordan's French origins. Their style of Cabernet lets the terroir do the talking. They never chased the trend of the 1990s and early 2000s of making thick jammy wines. He never felt it went with food well. His Cabernet has lower alcohol, so it's more like a Bordeaux than Napa style. Tom Simoneau notes that the alcohol is only 13.8 or 13.9%. In the true French tradition, the varietals are actually blended, with 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec. So, you could call it a Meritage, where each varietal brings its own characteristics to the blend. Tom suggests this is a good bottle to save for a kid's 21st birthday.
John Jordan has written an op-ed for the Close to Home section of the Press-Democrat to describe Sonoma Safe. This requires community involvement and people should avoid "one size fits all" solutions. Instead, he encourages people to take control of their situation and figure out how to operate safely. That means being creative and clever. The website has ways to share ideas and foster cooperation between businesses and government. Tom Simoneau points out that John Jordan also has the John Jordan Foundation which made a contribution to Sonoma Family Meal. This organization pays restaurants to provide meals for hungry people, so that helps keep some restaurant employees in place, as well as keeping the supply chain going while feeding people, so it works on three levels.
Jordan Winery is located at 1474 Alexander Valley Road, which is also Hwy 128, about a couple miles east of Healdsburg Ave. Remember, reservations are required.
We continue our series on women in the wine business, where we repeat podcast episodes while we don’t have new shows, due to issues arising from the Coronavirus. This episode featuring Italian winemaker Ornella Molon was originally broadcast on May 15, 2019, almost exactly one year ago.
Ornella Molon and Loris Traverso are in with Don Chigazola today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Ornella Molon and her son Loris Traverso produce wine at their family’s two wineries, in the Veneto and Friuli regions of Italy. (In a couple of places, Ornella speaks in Italian, then her son translates for her. For anyone interested in her comments in Italian, there is a transcript and translation of her words, at the bottom of this page.)
Loris explains how his parents started in the wine business in 1982. Neither his father nor his mother had a background in wine. When his grandparents gave them a vineyard when they were married in 1977, they started making wine, first for friends and then professionally. When they registered the winery as a business in 1982 at the Chamber of Commerce in Treviso, it was the first time that a woman was put in charge of the company. People were skeptical of a woman in that role, but Ornella has had great succeess and in Loris’ words, “My mom would say that she had to prove herself at the winery.” She says it was hard but it was good because she had to prove herself to everyone. Her advice to other women in the wine business is, “keep fighting, show who you are, and show everyone your value.”
L-R: Dan Berger, Loris Traverso, Ornella Molon, Cathy Ratto and Don Chigazola.
They are located in Treviso, a small city about 30 minutes from the city of Venice, in the Veneto region. Their villa and cantina, centuries ago, was the summer home of the Doge of Venice (English pronunciation is “dodj” and the Italian pronunciation is “DO-jeh”).
Don Chigazola tells how he got started as a wine importer. He is retired from the tech industry and he has followed his passion for Italian wine since founding Chigazola Merchants with his son. They travel the back roads of Italy and look for small family producers who are making excellent wine. Don also speaks Italian, which is important for his business.
Don and Dan agree that it is the small producers in Italy make these very fine wines. The larger producers in Italy are the ones who supply American supermarkets and those wines are nothing like these. Dan Berger explains that American supermarkets do not stock the kinds of wine that Don Chigazola imports. Don’s wines are in some local restaurants (he mentions Riviera and Ca’ Bianca) and at Oliver’s Markets. They are also at Bottle Barn.
They taste a Rosato, which is Italian for Rosé. It is a 2017 and has light bubbles. This Rosato is made from Cabernet Franc, which is a very common varietal in northeastern Italy. They make it as a red and a rosato. It is very dry and has very thin bubbles. Dan explains that you can taste the wine with the bubbles, then wait a while and the bubbles will go away, the wine is equally interesting but different.
The next wine is their newest release, a 2017 Pinot Grigio from their second label and cantina, Vigna Traverso in Friuli (in northeast Italy next to Slovenia). Steve asks Dan how this Italian Pinot Grigio differs from the ones from California. Dan says that here, we start with much riper grapes, so we get more florality and are more alluring in the aroma department. However they have less acidity. Then there are two Italian styles, mass production and also cold climate small production. This is one of those cold climate wines that would go well with food.
Loris tells about the vineyard. Ponca is the name of the kind of soil, called marn in English. They do not use any barrels here. They only use French oak for their red wines. Loris also tells that his mother and father each have a vineyard and winery. His father found and acquired a winery in the Friuli region in the early 1990s. They produce about 8000 cases per year, which is a fairly small production.
The next wine is a Raboso which is a unique variety indiginous to the Veneto in the area around the Piave River, where their cantina and villa are located. This is a 2012 vintage. It has strong acidity and it would go well with anything in a red sauce. It is hard to compare this to any kind of American wine. It was known as the travelling wine. Before refrigeration, the wine would last in the casks on long voyages.
Ornella describes Raboso as a varietal unique to the Piave region of the Veneto, which carries with it the history of the territory and its people. It is a very late ripening grape and is the last to be harvested every year. It makes wines of great distinction.
Loris adds that Raboso never was affected by philloxera, the plants are very strong. The skins are thick and crunchy, so they are the last ones that mature and they are the last of the harvest.
In the final minutes, Dan opens this week’s very old bottle. It’s a 1983 Sycamore Creek Fumé Blanc. It was lost in the back of his cellar, and it is quite past its prime. It was just opened and it will be good for another ten minutes. The wine “is on its way out the door.” Dan said these old bottles would be hit and miss and this is a miss.
Here are separate audio tracks with transcripts and close translations, of the two portions where Ornella Molon spoke in Italian:
@ 4:12, Ornella introduces herself and her son Loris.
http://calwinecountry.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/CWC_Ornella_Molon_in_Italiano_1a_parte.mp3 OK! Buona sera a tutti, io sono Ornella Molon. Vi porto i saluti dall’Italia e vi mando un grande bacio. Adesso Loris vi racconterà un po’ la storia nostra della nostra azienda e dei nostri vini.
OK! Good afternoon to everyone, I’m Ornella Molon. I bring you greetings from Italy and I send you a big kiss. Now Loris will tell you a bit about our history, our company and our wines.
@ 35:59, Loris asks Ornella to describes the Raboso varietal, which she does (at 36:06).
http://calwinecountry.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/CWC_Ornella_Molon_in_Italiano_2a_parte.mp3 Loris: Vuoi parlare del Raboso, il fatto della produzione, in Italiano, cosa pensi del vino, e poi io tradurrò?
Would you like to talk about Raboso, about the production, in Italian, what you think of the wine, and then I will translate?
Ornella: Certamente, con molto piacere. Il Raboso è un vitigno antichissimo, rappresenta proprio la terra e la gente del Piave. È una vite che è molto robusta, che è passata attraverso le guerre, attraverso le siccità, e racconta un po’ la storia del nostro territorio. È l’ultima uva che noi raccogliamo, a fine ottobre, primi novembre. Ha una buccia veramente molto resistente e ci da la possibilità di fare, con questa uva, di fare un vino di grande interesse, di grande forza e di grande durata nel tempo e negli anni. Voi vedete che anche questo è un 2012 (due mila dodici). Ha un colore ancora vivacissimo, un colore molto vivo. Sembra un’uva, un vino vendemmiato ieri.“
Certainly, with great pleasure. Raboso is a very old varietal and it represents the land and the people of the Piave. It is a very robust grape and has survived wars, droughts and carries with it the history of the land. It is the last grape that is harvested, at the end of October and the beginning of November. It has a very thick skin. With this grape we can make very interesting wine, with strong character, that can endure many years in the cellar. You can see that this is a 2012 and its color is still very lively, very vivid. It tastes like a wine that was made just yesterday.
We continue our series on women in the wine business, where we repeat podcast episodes while we don't have new shows, due to issues arising from the Coronavirus. This episode featuring Italian winemaker Ornella Molon was originally broadcast on May 15, 2019, almost exactly one year ago.
Ornella Molon and Loris Traverso are in with Don Chigazola today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Ornella Molon and her son Loris Traverso produce wine at their family's two wineries, in the Veneto and Friuli regions of Italy. (In a couple of places, Ornella speaks in Italian, then her son translates for her. For anyone interested in her comments in Italian, there is a transcript and translation of her words, at the bottom of this page.)
Loris explains how his parents started in the wine business in 1982. Neither his father nor his mother had a background in wine. When his grandparents gave them a vineyard when they were married in 1977, they started making wine, first for friends and then professionally. When they registered the winery as a business in 1982 at the Chamber of Commerce in Treviso, it was the first time that a woman was put in charge of the company. People were skeptical of a woman in that role, but Ornella has had great succeess and in Loris’ words, “My mom would say that she had to prove herself at the winery.” She says it was hard but it was good because she had to prove herself to everyone. Her advice to other women in the wine business is, “keep fighting, show who you are, and show everyone your value.”
L-R: Dan Berger, Loris Traverso, Ornella Molon, Cathy Ratto and Don Chigazola.
They are located in Treviso, a small city about 30 minutes from the city of Venice, in the Veneto region. Their villa and cantina, centuries ago, was the summer home of the Doge of Venice (English pronunciation is “dodj” and the Italian pronunciation is “DO-jeh”).
Don Chigazola tells how he got started as a wine importer. He is retired from the tech industry and he has followed his passion for Italian wine since founding Chigazola Merchants with his son. They travel the back roads of Italy and look for small family producers who are making excellent wine. Don also speaks Italian, which is important for his business.
Don and Dan agree that it is the small producers in Italy make these very fine wines. The larger producers in Italy are the ones who supply American supermarkets and those wines are nothing like these. Dan Berger explains that American supermarkets do not stock the kinds of wine that Don Chigazola imports. Don’s wines are in some local restaurants (he mentions Riviera and Ca’ Bianca) and at Oliver’s Markets. They are also at Bottle Barn.
They taste a Rosato, which is Italian for Rosé. It is a 2017 and has light bubbles. This Rosato is made from Cabernet Franc, which is a very common varietal in northeastern Italy. They make it as a red and a rosato. It is very dry and has very thin bubbles. Dan explains that you can taste the wine with the bubbles, then wait a while and the bubbles will go away, the wine is equally interesting but different.
The next wine is their newest release, a 2017 Pinot Grigio from their second label and cantina, Vigna Traverso in Friuli (in northeast Italy next to Slovenia). Steve asks Dan how this Italian Pinot Grigio differs from the ones from California. Dan says that here, we start with much riper grapes, so we get more florality and are more alluring in the aroma department. However they have less acidity. Then there are two Italian styles, mass production and also cold climate small production. This is one of those cold climate wines that would go well with food.
Loris tells about the vineyard. Ponca is the name of the kind of soil, called marn in English. They do not use any barrels here. They only use French oak for their red wines. Loris also tells that his mother and father each have a vineyard and winery.
We continue our series of podcast episodes featuring women in the wine business this week, since there is no new show today due to Coronavirus coverage on home station KSRO in Santa Rosa. This episode with Barbara Lindblom remembering Mary Ann Graf was originally recorded and broadcast on April 17, 2019.
Mary Ann Graf
Barbara Lindblom visits with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today, to remember Mary Ann Graf, a pioneering, iconic local winemaker who passed away recently. She also worked at Simi Winery (as laboratory director) then as a winemaker in some other places. She is now retired.
Mary Ann Graf studied at UC Davis and was the first woman in the US to graduate with a degree in Oenology. She was the winemaker at Simi Winery, the first in a series of notable women winemakers there. Then, she ran a successful laboratory testing company called Vinquiry, which performed testing services for wineries. She was the first woman on the board of directors of the American Society for Enology and Viticulture.
Here is a page about Mary Ann Graf at the Santa Clara University Women in Wine website.
Mary Ann Graf worked with André Tchelistcheff. They will taste a non-vintage Simi North Coast Burgundy, which Dan can see is from 1973, from the code printed at the bottom of the bottle. This was Mary Ann’s first year at Simi. Dan bought these wines at Trader Joe’s for $1.99 per bottleMost of the major wineries in those days made a generic so-called Burgundy and most of them were blends.
Mary Ann Graf started Vinquiry at about that time. Dan knows it as one of the most professional wine analysis laboratories at the time. She had a lot of clients in Alexander Valley.
Barbara Lindblom started working at a harvest at Mondavi with Zelma Long. When Zelma got the job as Simi, she asked Barbara to join her, and she worked there for 10 years. Dan Berger says that Zelma Long and André Tchelistcheff were a strong team, since André was more inclinded to understanding wine from its sensory perception and Zelma understood it more from the technical standpoint.
Barbara remembers Mary Ann was so generous with her time and her thoughts, and a steadfast friend. Her consulting business grew and grew because she and her partner were so smart and patient with their clients.
Dan remembers when he and Mary Ann were judges in a competition in the midwest where the wine was really bad. Dan remembers she was so kind and quiet. A winemaker from Illinois asked her, “Did you like my wine?” She replied kindly, “We can talk about this, you’ve got potential.” She could not say anything negative about it. As a consultant, she would tell her clients what’s there and what can make it better. She was always looking out for the best long-term solution, not a quick fix.
They taste a 2000 Old Vine Zinfandel from Fanucci vineyards and a 2016 Stonestreet Estate Chardonnay that is a good example of Alexander Valley fruit having enough acidity to age well.
Barbara Lindblom spent some time in France and Spain as well as working as a winemaker in California.
Dan brought in a Simi North Coast Burgundy from 1973. This was Mary Ann Graf’s first year at Simi. It is only 12% alcohol, mostly Carignane and a bit of Zinfandel. Dan says that wineries had their blends with all kinds of different varietals that they all called Burgundy. They were the varietals that were in their high end portfolios, but the leftover wines were also good.
Dan Berger tasted wine with Joe Coulombe at Trader Joes in the 1970s and remembers tasting these wines.
Giuseppe and Pietro Simi selected their location, five years before Italian Swiss Colony was founded.
They used to call a generic red wine “Mountain Burgundy” often based on Carignane which was a workhorse variety that was never intended to be aged. Dan discovered some old bottles of it in the back of his cellar and they were fine. There was a little oxidation. There was some fruit flavor, but dried fruit,
We continue our series of podcast episodes featuring women in the wine business this week, since there is no new show today due to Coronavirus coverage on home station KSRO in Santa Rosa. This episode with Barbara Lindblom remembering Mary Ann Graf was originally recorded and broadcast on April 17, 2019.
Mary Ann Graf
Barbara Lindblom visits with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today, to remember Mary Ann Graf, a pioneering, iconic local winemaker who passed away recently. She also worked at Simi Winery (as laboratory director) then as a winemaker in some other places. She is now retired.
Mary Ann Graf studied at UC Davis and was the first woman in the US to graduate with a degree in Oenology. She was the winemaker at Simi Winery, the first in a series of notable women winemakers there. Then, she ran a successful laboratory testing company called Vinquiry, which performed testing services for wineries. She was the first woman on the board of directors of the American Society for Enology and Viticulture.
Here is a page about Mary Ann Graf at the Santa Clara University Women in Wine website.
Mary Ann Graf worked with André Tchelistcheff. They will taste a non-vintage Simi North Coast Burgundy, which Dan can see is from 1973, from the code printed at the bottom of the bottle. This was Mary Ann’s first year at Simi. Dan bought these wines at Trader Joe’s for $1.99 per bottleMost of the major wineries in those days made a generic so-called Burgundy and most of them were blends.
Mary Ann Graf started Vinquiry at about that time. Dan knows it as one of the most professional wine analysis laboratories at the time. She had a lot of clients in Alexander Valley.
Barbara Lindblom started working at a harvest at Mondavi with Zelma Long. When Zelma got the job as Simi, she asked Barbara to join her, and she worked there for 10 years. Dan Berger says that Zelma Long and André Tchelistcheff were a strong team, since André was more inclinded to understanding wine from its sensory perception and Zelma understood it more from the technical standpoint.
Barbara remembers Mary Ann was so generous with her time and her thoughts, and a steadfast friend. Her consulting business grew and grew because she and her partner were so smart and patient with their clients.
Dan remembers when he and Mary Ann were judges in a competition in the midwest where the wine was really bad. Dan remembers she was so kind and quiet. A winemaker from Illinois asked her, “Did you like my wine?” She replied kindly, “We can talk about this, you’ve got potential.” She could not say anything negative about it. As a consultant, she would tell her clients what’s there and what can make it better. She was always looking out for the best long-term solution, not a quick fix.
They taste a 2000 Old Vine Zinfandel from Fanucci vineyards and a 2016 Stonestreet Estate Chardonnay that is a good example of Alexander Valley fruit having enough acidity to age well.
Barbara Lindblom spent some time in France and Spain as well as working as a winemaker in California.
Dan brought in a Simi North Coast Burgundy from 1973. This was Mary Ann Graf’s first year at Simi. It is only 12% alcohol, mostly Carignane and a bit of Zinfandel. Dan says that wineries had their blends with all kinds of different varietals that they all called Burgundy. They were the varietals that were in their high end portfolios, but the leftover wines were also good.
Dan Berger tasted wine with Joe Coulombe at Trader Joes in the 1970s and remembers tasting these wines.
Giuseppe and Pietro Simi selected their location, five years before Italian Swiss Colony was founded.
They used to call a generic red wine “Mountain Burgundy” often based on Carignane which was a workhorse variety that was never intended to be aged. Dan discovered some old bottles of it in the back of his cellar and they were fine. There was a little oxidation. There was some fruit flavor, but dried fruit, being 40 years old. Zinfandel doesn’t age as well as Carignane, but it does live long. Dan says the smell this 1973 wine has is a precursor of oxidation.
Dan and his wife were in Madrid at the Sporting restaurant in Madrid. They said they had a 1971 Baron Delay Rioja, which cost him $11 US. The waiter said the Spanish don’t like aged wine, since they age the wine in the barrels. Dan says that wine was glorious for 20 minutes, but they watched it turn and five minutes later it was dead.
Dan says that this 1973 will turn from red to brown in an hour, so drink it fast! Steve asks why that happens and Barbara explains it. In any case, it tastes wonderful. The year before, which was made by someone else, is no good anymore.
Dan’s cellar is underground and has a constant temperature of 55-60 degrees year-round.
Finally, as they toast to Mary Ann with her wine, Dan remembers that Mary Ann Graf never sought publicity and was always striving to improve. Her name only shows up in his columns 5 or 6 times over the decades because she never wanted publicity.
Again this week during Covid-19 confinement, the California Wine Country podcast continues our series on women in the wine business, since we do not have a new show, due to special Coronavirus coverage. This podcast replay episode with Carol Shelton was originally recorded and aired on Feb. 6, 2019.
Carol Shelton, winemaker of her very own Carol Shelton Wines is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, after a 14 month absence. Carol Shelton is known as the Queen of Zinfandel. Dan tells about her great success with finding its character without having to be very high in percentage of alcohol. She also makes Petit Syrah and a white wine from Rhone grapes called Coquille Blanc (French for “White Scallop Shell”). Carol Shelton is very well known locally but doesn’t have national distribution for her relatively small output.
She has made a brand called “Wild Thing” and another called Monga, which is Zinfandel from Cucamonga, where there are some of the oldest Zin vines in America. (The Jack Benny Show used to feature a call of local railway stations that ended in “CUC-a-MON-ga!” which used to get a laugh on the radio in the mid 20th century.) The Italian Wine Company used to own 2000 acres of grapes east of Los Angeles. Her 2017 Rosé was on the cover of Wine Spectator, so was Jon Bon Jovi, who also makes Rosé.
She has been in the wine business for 42 years. She was one of the first ten women to go to UC Davis in Enology. She worked for various wineries in California and Australia. Later she worked at Buena Vista for André Tchelistcheff and for Windsor. She credits him with lifting up the California production to meet and exceed the European standards.
She moved to California with her family as a teen in the early 1970s. The family would go looking for wine in Santa Cruz and Livermore. Her parents encouraged her to take food science classes instead of poetry. She found wine to be, “the most creative science and the most scientific art.” Dan Berger gives Carol credit for making gold medal winning wines with grapes that nobody cared about, like Carignane. Her favorite wine is her Coquille Blanc. It’s a blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne.
It’s all barrel fermented. All the grapes come from Paso Robles. Among white wines, this wine is complex. “It wants to be a Chardonnay and wants to go beyond.” Wine Spectator just gave it 93 points and it has won a couple of double golds already. Dan thinks it is the best white wine she has made to date. Some of her wines are now coming from mature vines. Dan says it is extremely complex and imagines it after another two years in the bottle. Carol says the 2008 is phenomenal. The Grenache Blanc tives it a steely background and the Roussanne gives it flesh on the bones, honey, peach, almonds. Dan says the Viognier adds tropical fruit.
Wild Thing is named for the Zinfandel. She likes to experiment with yeast strains. Once she experimented with wild yeast. Dan explains that the grapes grow with a little natural yeast on them. Being organically grown grapes really helps. Pesticides target fungi like mildew and mold, and would harm the yeast.
She started making Rosé in 2002, “before it was popular.” This 2018 Rosé is 60% Carignone, 30% Zin and 20% Petit Syrah. Dan says it has strong bright strawberry flavors, table strawberries and wild strawberries. Nice snd tangy, says Carol. Dan says in 6 to 8 more months the fruit flavors will be even more apparent.
Carol says they picked it very green. Normally they pick at 241/2 to 26 or 26 brix (sugar content). This was picked at 21½ brix so it’s very much less ripe. Instead of pressing juice quickly, which can make it too pale, they kept the skins in for two days. Dan says it tastes lighter. Rosé made in this manner is darker. Carol says it is modelled after a Tavel, a southern Rhone style, such as Chateau Trinquevedel Tavel Rosé, which is usually this dark. They usually have Carignane and Mourvedre.
DAN BERGER: “A lot of what we do in Sonoma County is under the radar. There is a lot of exposition about wines from around the world that gain recognition because they’re expensive or because they have fancy packaging or they have huge public relations behind them. Carol and many many California wineries, in particular in Sonoma County, are doing exemplary work. And very very few of them get the full recognition.
One example is Zinfandel. Zinfandel is our grape. This is a California grape. It’s maybe found elsewhere. I know of one vineyard in Washington that’s very good, and one in Oregon… but we do Zin. When you taste Zinfandel, across the board they are all different. Carol is a purist. She wants these wines to reflect what the vineyards she’s buying them from do best.”
They taste 2015 Wild Thing Zin, from Mendocino, not the seaside town but north of Ukiah on the west side of the 101, 62-year-old vineyards. They are organically grown. She leaves it on the skins for a full month before it’s pressed off.
Their last wine is the 2015 Karma Reserve Zinfandel. Dan says that if people say you can’t age a Zinfandel, this is the wine to show you can. It is a Claret style, because of the aging in French oak, the combination of fruit and secondary flavors, provide great opportunities for aging. It’s only about 60% Zin, with 15% Petit Syrah and 10% Cabernet, some Carignane, some Alicante and even some Viognier. She just wanted to make the best blend she could.
Again this week during Covid-19 confinement, the California Wine Country podcast continues our series on women in the wine business, since we do not have a new show, due to special Coronavirus coverage. This podcast replay episode with Carol Shelton was originally recorded and aired on Feb. 6, 2019.
Carol Shelton, winemaker of her very own Carol Shelton Wines is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, after a 14 month absence. Carol Shelton is known as the Queen of Zinfandel. Dan tells about her great success with finding its character without having to be very high in percentage of alcohol. She also makes Petit Syrah and a white wine from Rhone grapes called Coquille Blanc (French for “White Scallop Shell”). Carol Shelton is very well known locally but doesn’t have national distribution for her relatively small output.
She has made a brand called “Wild Thing” and another called Monga, which is Zinfandel from Cucamonga, where there are some of the oldest Zin vines in America. (The Jack Benny Show used to feature a call of local railway stations that ended in “CUC-a-MON-ga!” which used to get a laugh on the radio in the mid 20th century.) The Italian Wine Company used to own 2000 acres of grapes east of Los Angeles. Her 2017 Rosé was on the cover of Wine Spectator, so was Jon Bon Jovi, who also makes Rosé.
She has been in the wine business for 42 years. She was one of the first ten women to go to UC Davis in Enology. She worked for various wineries in California and Australia. Later she worked at Buena Vista for André Tchelistcheff and for Windsor. She credits him with lifting up the California production to meet and exceed the European standards.
She moved to California with her family as a teen in the early 1970s. The family would go looking for wine in Santa Cruz and Livermore. Her parents encouraged her to take food science classes instead of poetry. She found wine to be, “the most creative science and the most scientific art.” Dan Berger gives Carol credit for making gold medal winning wines with grapes that nobody cared about, like Carignane. Her favorite wine is her Coquille Blanc. It’s a blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne.
It’s all barrel fermented. All the grapes come from Paso Robles. Among white wines, this wine is complex. “It wants to be a Chardonnay and wants to go beyond.” Wine Spectator just gave it 93 points and it has won a couple of double golds already. Dan thinks it is the best white wine she has made to date. Some of her wines are now coming from mature vines. Dan says it is extremely complex and imagines it after another two years in the bottle. Carol says the 2008 is phenomenal. The Grenache Blanc tives it a steely background and the Roussanne gives it flesh on the bones, honey, peach, almonds. Dan says the Viognier adds tropical fruit.
Wild Thing is named for the Zinfandel. She likes to experiment with yeast strains. Once she experimented with wild yeast. Dan explains that the grapes grow with a little natural yeast on them. Being organically grown grapes really helps. Pesticides target fungi like mildew and mold, and would harm the yeast.
She started making Rosé in 2002, “before it was popular.” This 2018 Rosé is 60% Carignone, 30% Zin and 20% Petit Syrah. Dan says it has strong bright strawberry flavors, table strawberries and wild strawberries. Nice snd tangy, says Carol. Dan says in 6 to 8 more months the fruit flavors will be even more apparent.
Carol says they picked it very green. Normally they pick at 241/2 to 26 or 26 brix (sugar content). This was picked at 21½ brix so it’s very much less ripe. Instead of pressing juice quickly, which can make it too pale, they kept the skins in for two days. Dan says it tastes lighter. Rosé made in this manner is darker. Carol says it is modelled after a Tavel, a southern Rhone style, such as Chateau Trinquevedel Tavel Rosé, which is usually this dark.
California Wine Country this week welcomes Ben Fine, wine educator and Tracy Shepos Cenami, executive chef from Jackson Family Wines, who are here to tell us about Jackson Family Wines’ Your Wine Store.com. (Dan Berger is away this week and Pete Foppiano joins Steve Jaxon in the studio.)
Your Wine Store dot com is Jackson Family Wines’ online ordering site, for wine and food. Wines from many of their different wineries are available. They can deliver wine within 24 hours if within 60 miles of their location. For example, if you are looking for Pinot Noir, you can easily find all of their Pinot Noir including some very hard-to-find bottles. There are volume discounts, to make it easy for people to experiment with special wines during Covid-19 confinement.
Tracy tells about the food options, including many locally produced cheeses from well-known artisan producers. Their goal was to make ordering great combinations as easy as possible. For example, you can order a cheese and cold cuts combination with a wine that is perfectly paired with it.
They have also produced a cookbook, The Season Cookbook, a Year of Wine Country Food, Farming, Family and Friends. It is a richly illustrated book packed with great recipes and ideas. For example, there is a recipe for Sorrel Aioli, which they suggest serving with Salmon in the cookbook.
“Spring has sprung for sure in Sonoma County.”
Bel Fine tells that his job is to spend time showing people about wines, food and pairings, starting with the vineyard and the garden. He wants people to taste the grapes to understand the wines that they will make. He is posting content online at Your Wine Store.com and at La Crema’s Instagram.
Tracy describes how you can make selections by the winery, or by varietal, then there is a tab for “food and farm items.” They also produce their own olive oil.
California Wine Country this week welcomes Ben Fine, wine educator and Tracy Shepos Cenami, executive chef from Jackson Family Wines, who are here to tell us about Jackson Family Wines’ Your Wine Store.com. (Dan Berger is away this week and Pete Foppiano joins Steve Jaxon in the studio.)
Your Wine Store dot com is Jackson Family Wines' online ordering site, for wine and food. Wines from many of their different wineries are available. They can deliver wine within 24 hours if within 60 miles of their location. For example, if you are looking for Pinot Noir, you can easily find all of their Pinot Noir including some very hard-to-find bottles. There are volume discounts, to make it easy for people to experiment with special wines during Covid-19 confinement.
Tracy tells about the food options, including many locally produced cheeses from well-known artisan producers. Their goal was to make ordering great combinations as easy as possible. For example, you can order a cheese and cold cuts combination with a wine that is perfectly paired with it.
They have also produced a cookbook, The Season Cookbook, a Year of Wine Country Food, Farming, Family and Friends. It is a richly illustrated book packed with great recipes and ideas. For example, there is a recipe for Sorrel Aioli, which they suggest serving with Salmon in the cookbook. "Spring has sprung for sure in Sonoma County." Bel Fine tells that his job is to spend time showing people about wines, food and pairings, starting with the vineyard and the garden. He wants people to taste the grapes to understand the wines that they will make. He is posting content online at Your Wine Store.com and at La Crema's Instagram.
Tracy describes how you can make selections by the winery, or by varietal, then there is a tab for "food and farm items." They also produce their own olive oil.
This is another in our series of repeat podcast episodes featuring women in the wine business, since there is no new California Wine Country show this week, due to Coronavirus coverage on home station KSRO. This episode was recorded and aired live on Dec. 12, 2018.
Theresa Heredia from Gary Farrell Winery is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn is also in.
Gary Farrell had his own ideas, he wanted to pick his grapes earlier, rather than the trend at the time, which was to pick rather later. Theresa came to Gary Farrell wines and carried on Gary’s practices in the winery where he had all the right equipment. It’s not easy to grow grapes in a cold climate and make great wine, and Dan says that Gary Farrell agrees that Theresa is succeeding.
Theresa Heredia explains that Gary Farrell is one of the pioneers of the Russian River Valley. He started at Davis Bynum and worked at Rochioli. His first vintage was the 1982 Pinot Noir. He makes “site-expressive” wines.
Dan tells how Gary started as a cellar worker and later, wineries wanted his magic. Theresa tells how they do it, that they have the same idea in mind. Gary wants the vineyard to shine through in the bottle, rather than any other components like the oak, or ripeness, or alcohol. It’s what she was tryign to do at Joseph Phelps Freestone Vineyard previously. She’s getting wines that are generally under 14% alcohol and uses light oak, so as not to mask the flavors.
Theresa was a graduate student in Chemistry at UC Davis and she thought she would get a PhD and teach at the University level. But she discovered wine at UC Davis and “that was it.”
Dan Berger says you have to have great intuition and great vision to work in cold climates. The cooler years are more challenging, she says. Theresa's first vintage was 2002 for Joseph Phelps and 2012 for Gary Farrell. They taste a 2016 Russian River selection Chardonnay blend. The grapes come from many of the famous Russian River vineyards, she mentions Rochioli, Olivet Lane, a bit of Durell, Bacigalupi, Ritchie. They always want to pick the components for this blend first, then they set aside the single-vineyard selections. Dan says it could take 6-8 years in the cellar.
The next bottle is a 2015 Chardonnay from Durell Vineyards. Theresa says it takes about 3 weeks to create the blends, both the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, they need time to pick out the components of the blend. Dan says that the secret of this wine is the acidity, which allows it to pick up many nuances. It could take a decade in the cellar. Theresa Heredia says that Durell is one of her favorite vineyards, with natural concentration and structure. Dan notes the citrus components in the flavors.
Next tasting up is a 2016 Pinot Noir blend from all the great Russian River Valley vineyards. Dan tells about an expensive French Burgundy, which sells for $5200 per bottle. They consider Chardonnay to be colorless red wine and Pinot Noir to be white wine with color. These Gary Farrell bottles cost around $35 but they are comparable to those French wines that cost many times more. Dan proclaims that Sonoma County specializes in premium wines at affordable prices.
Barry says he has tasted some fantastic Pinot Noirs from 20 years ago that come from a cellar that Bottle Barn has purchased. Then they taste the 2015 McDonald Mountain Pinot Noir. This is a new vineyard for them. It's located in Sebastopol Hills between the Petaluma wind gap and Green Valley. It's foggy and windy and the yields are low, so it gets great concentration. Dan smells some raspberries and wild strawberries, with a faint taste of cranberries in the aftertaste. Theresa says it works very well with lamb.
Dan points out that there are some iconic wines in the region but that they are only sold direct to consumer at the vineyard. Last they taste a 2014 Siduri, a lush Pinot Noir that will sell out in the next few day...
This is another in our series of repeat podcast episodes featuring women in the wine business, since there is no new California Wine Country show this week, due to Coronavirus coverage on home station KSRO. This episode was recorded and aired live on Dec. 12, 2018.
Theresa Heredia from Gary Farrell Winery is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn is also in.
Gary Farrell had his own ideas, he wanted to pick his grapes earlier, rather than the trend at the time, which was to pick rather later. Theresa came to Gary Farrell wines and carried on Gary’s practices in the winery where he had all the right equipment. It’s not easy to grow grapes in a cold climate and make great wine, and Dan says that Gary Farrell agrees that Theresa is succeeding.
Theresa Heredia explains that Gary Farrell is one of the pioneers of the Russian River Valley. He started at Davis Bynum and worked at Rochioli. His first vintage was the 1982 Pinot Noir. He makes “site-expressive” wines.
Dan tells how Gary started as a cellar worker and later, wineries wanted his magic. Theresa tells how they do it, that they have the same idea in mind. Gary wants the vineyard to shine through in the bottle, rather than any other components like the oak, or ripeness, or alcohol. It’s what she was tryign to do at Joseph Phelps Freestone Vineyard previously. She’s getting wines that are generally under 14% alcohol and uses light oak, so as not to mask the flavors.
Theresa was a graduate student in Chemistry at UC Davis and she thought she would get a PhD and teach at the University level. But she discovered wine at UC Davis and “that was it.”
Dan Berger says you have to have great intuition and great vision to work in cold climates. The cooler years are more challenging, she says. Theresa’s first vintage was 2002 for Joseph Phelps and 2012 for Gary Farrell. They taste a 2016 Russian River selection Chardonnay blend. The grapes come from many of the famous Russian River vineyards, she mentions Rochioli, Olivet Lane, a bit of Durell, Bacigalupi, Ritchie. They always want to pick the components for this blend first, then they set aside the single-vineyard selections. Dan says it could take 6-8 years in the cellar.
The next bottle is a 2015 Chardonnay from Durell Vineyards. Theresa says it takes about 3 weeks to create the blends, both the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, they need time to pick out the components of the blend. Dan says that the secret of this wine is the acidity, which allows it to pick up many nuances. It could take a decade in the cellar. Theresa Heredia says that Durell is one of her favorite vineyards, with natural concentration and structure. Dan notes the citrus components in the flavors.
Next tasting up is a 2016 Pinot Noir blend from all the great Russian River Valley vineyards. Dan tells about an expensive French Burgundy, which sells for $5200 per bottle. They consider Chardonnay to be colorless red wine and Pinot Noir to be white wine with color. These Gary Farrell bottles cost around $35 but they are comparable to those French wines that cost many times more. Dan proclaims that Sonoma County specializes in premium wines at affordable prices.
Barry says he has tasted some fantastic Pinot Noirs from 20 years ago that come from a cellar that Bottle Barn has purchased. Then they taste the 2015 McDonald Mountain Pinot Noir. This is a new vineyard for them. It’s located in Sebastopol Hills between the Petaluma wind gap and Green Valley. It’s foggy and windy and the yields are low, so it gets great concentration. Dan smells some raspberries and wild strawberries, with a faint taste of cranberries in the aftertaste. Theresa says it works very well with lamb.
Dan points out that there are some iconic wines in the region but that they are only sold direct to consumer at the vineyard. Last they taste a 2014 Siduri, a lush Pinot Noir that will sell out in the next few days, at a low discount on the new Bottle Barn web store. Dan says it has the lightness and elegance of Sonoma County character and Theresa says it’s an amazing wine for its $20 price.
We continue our series of repeat podcast episodes featuring women in the wine business this week, since there is no new show today due to ongoing Coronavirus coverage on our home station KSRO in Santa Rosa, CA. This episode with Bernadette Byrne from the Mendocino County Wine Growers, is originally from July 11, 2018.
Bernadette Byrne, Executive Director of the Mendocino County Wine Growers, is our guest on California Wine Country today. She joins Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Barry Herbst to talk about Mendocino County grape growers and vintners and to taste several examples of their production.
Dan Berger describes the Mendocino County as having a series of sub-regions regions such as Anderson Valley, Redwood Valley and Potter Valley. Each one has very different characteristics that come out in the different varieties that they produce. Potter Valley produces a lot of good Riesling, it’s cooler and produces a finer quality of wine, same as Anderson Valley.
There are eleven different sub-AVAs in Mendocino County, says Bernadette. This page on the Mendocino Wine Growers’ website has detailed information about the AVAs and sub-regions.
Bernadette has been in the Mendocino County wine business for thirty years, including time working for Fetzer and then in other wineries in Napa. She was the hospitality director for Fetzer in the ‘80s and ‘90s when they were growing rapidly. They were innovators in organic farming at the Food and Wine Center in Hopland, and introducing the Bonterra line of wines. She was marketing director for McDowell Vineyards and had a wine shop called Sip Mendocino, which she later sold.
Barry says that Mendocino County wines are on the move and that there is an intertwining between Sonoma and Mendocino counties, because some Sonoma based vintners are using grapes grown in the cooler climates in Mendocino.
Dan says that for a long time, Mendocino fruit was sold outside the county but now, Mendocino County is making more of its own wine than ever before. The fruit from Mendocino County is high quality and costs less than Sonoma or Napa grapes, so some vintners in those other counties will buy some fruit from Mendocino.
More than a quarter of the acreage is organic, and they have more biodynamic vineyards than anywhere. Dan says Paul Dolan gets credit for this. He was wine master at Fetzer who gave lectures on biodynamic farming. He and the late Dennis Martin were leaders in this. Barry says it’s expensive to get certified so many farmers apply the techniques without being registered. Full biodynamic farming means zero pesticides and herbicides. There are a lot of wineries that could not afford to make the change because there is risk in awkward and bad vintages that they risk losing their entire crop. Yet, sustainable farming is a step toward that and many more farmers are farming that way.
Bernadette Byrne describes the land is very diverse in the county, with unique microclimates. The inland corridor along Hwy 101 is a warmer place so they grow more Rhone varietals and traditional reds. Mendocino is also known for Zinfandel. They have some fabulous 100-year-old vineyards in rugged land that is still managed by the same Italian farmers who settled the area and planted the vines a century ago. They grow Caranant, Petit Syrah, Barbera and lots of old vine Zinfandel. Coro Mendocino is their project dedicated to their heritage variety of Zinfandel. Coro means “chorus” in Italian and the wines must have 40-60% Zinfandel then blend with a list of allowed varietals. They do a blind tasting to choose the wines. Dan says sometimes, people would reject their own wine.
Dan Berger mentions that if you blend Zinfandel with Barbera the result is in one direction and if blended with Grenache, the result is quite different.
First they taste a Seebass Grenache Rosé. She worked for McDowell Valley Vineyards where they made a similar wine. They also tasted the Seebass Chardonnay,
We continue our series of repeat podcast episodes featuring women in the wine business this week, since there is no new show today due to ongoing Coronavirus coverage on our home station KSRO in Santa Rosa, CA. This episode with Bernadette Byrne from the Mendocino County Wine Growers, is originally from July 11, 2018.
Bernadette Byrne, Executive Director of the Mendocino County Wine Growers, is our guest on California Wine Country today. She joins Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Barry Herbst to talk about Mendocino County grape growers and vintners and to taste several examples of their production.
Dan Berger describes the Mendocino County as having a series of sub-regions regions such as Anderson Valley, Redwood Valley and Potter Valley. Each one has very different characteristics that come out in the different varieties that they produce. Potter Valley produces a lot of good Riesling, it’s cooler and produces a finer quality of wine, same as Anderson Valley.
There are eleven different sub-AVAs in Mendocino County, says Bernadette. This page on the Mendocino Wine Growers’ website has detailed information about the AVAs and sub-regions.
Bernadette has been in the Mendocino County wine business for thirty years, including time working for Fetzer and then in other wineries in Napa. She was the hospitality director for Fetzer in the ‘80s and ‘90s when they were growing rapidly. They were innovators in organic farming at the Food and Wine Center in Hopland, and introducing the Bonterra line of wines. She was marketing director for McDowell Vineyards and had a wine shop called Sip Mendocino, which she later sold.
Barry says that Mendocino County wines are on the move and that there is an intertwining between Sonoma and Mendocino counties, because some Sonoma based vintners are using grapes grown in the cooler climates in Mendocino.
Dan says that for a long time, Mendocino fruit was sold outside the county but now, Mendocino County is making more of its own wine than ever before. The fruit from Mendocino County is high quality and costs less than Sonoma or Napa grapes, so some vintners in those other counties will buy some fruit from Mendocino.
More than a quarter of the acreage is organic, and they have more biodynamic vineyards than anywhere. Dan says Paul Dolan gets credit for this. He was wine master at Fetzer who gave lectures on biodynamic farming. He and the late Dennis Martin were leaders in this. Barry says it’s expensive to get certified so many farmers apply the techniques without being registered. Full biodynamic farming means zero pesticides and herbicides. There are a lot of wineries that could not afford to make the change because there is risk in awkward and bad vintages that they risk losing their entire crop. Yet, sustainable farming is a step toward that and many more farmers are farming that way.
Bernadette Byrne describes the land is very diverse in the county, with unique microclimates. The inland corridor along Hwy 101 is a warmer place so they grow more Rhone varietals and traditional reds. Mendocino is also known for Zinfandel. They have some fabulous 100-year-old vineyards in rugged land that is still managed by the same Italian farmers who settled the area and planted the vines a century ago. They grow Caranant, Petit Syrah, Barbera and lots of old vine Zinfandel. Coro Mendocino is their project dedicated to their heritage variety of Zinfandel. Coro means “chorus” in Italian and the wines must have 40-60% Zinfandel then blend with a list of allowed varietals. They do a blind tasting to choose the wines. Dan says sometimes, people would reject their own wine.
Dan Berger mentions that if you blend Zinfandel with Barbera the result is in one direction and if blended with Grenache, the result is quite different.
First they taste a Seebass Grenache Rosé. She worked for McDowell Valley Vineyards where they made a similar wine. They also tasted the Seebass Chardonnay, a Burgundian style, malolactic fermentation, barrel aged, “unctuous” as Bernadette Byrne says and Steve agrees. This is a grand style special occasion fine-dining type of Chardonnay.
The Mendocino Ridge AVA includes only the land over 1200 feet above sea level.
They also taste a 2016 Pinot Noir. The winery is called Murder Ridge. There are crows on the label and it is a play on words on the collective term “a murder of crows.”
The Murder Ridge winery is located in the Mendocino Ridge AVA. It’s the only non-contiguous appellation in the US. It’s only the ridge tops over 1400 feet, above the fog line, overlooking both the Anderson Valley and the coast. It’s a pretty extreme farming situation, says Bernadette Byrne. It’s like farming in the wilderness. Dan says you drive up those mountain roads and you don’t know where you are. You don’t go out at night because it is too remote and there are bears and cougars. Dan says the Zini property makes some of the best Zinfandel in California.
Dan says the 2016 Pinot is from above the fog line so you get more ripeness, with some minty qualities. The structure is good and it may need 3-4 years.
The county has a lot of different climates with a 30 degree temperature swing from the peaks to the valleys.
Next they taste a Cole Ranch Riesling, a 2016. This is the smallest AVA in the country, only 2 acres planted and all by the Esterlina Winery. It has great acidity so it will last if you keep it in the cellar. Dan says the flavors are concentrated making a gorgeous wine. Bernadette says it has a viscosity that is characteristic of great Rieslings.
This Pinot Noir is from Masút, a vineyard north of the Ukiah valley that is the new Eagle Peak AVA. Masút is a local Native American word for rich dark earth. Dan is amazed that this is a 2009 and still has a fresh fruity taste. Bernadette Byrne tells that Masút is dedicated to Pinot Noir run by two grandsons of the founder of Marty Fetzer, Jake and Ben. Their father the late Bobby Fetzer was a pioneer in organic grape growing. Their sons wanted to carry on their father’s rebel cause of planting Pinot Noir in the inland corridor. People said it was too hot but Bobby Fetzer knew about the coastal influence in the northern region. He planted exclusively Pinot Noir and his sons are making fabulous wine.
Barry brought an Idlewild Rosé from Mendocino County, in a Piedmontese (north west Italy) style made from some Italian grape varieties not often used for Rosé, like Barbera, Dolcetto and over half being Nebbiolo. The grapes come from Fox Hill and the vineyards are very well respected. It’s totally dry, not your typically fruity rosé. Dan says it’s red wine with no color. Bernadette Byrne mentions the finish with its spice notes and rose petals.
The Bottle Barn Rosé tasting in August sold out in 48 hours. They will have other tastings and the way to get in is to be on the Bottle Barn mailing list at bottlebarn.com.
Dan Berger suggests visiting Mendocino County and Bernadette Byrne mentions her hometown of Hopland that has many great restaurants, 14 different tasting rooms and the Solar Living Institute. There is even a winery called Jaxon, and Steve still has a bottle from there on top of his fridge.
Finally Dan and Bernadette mention that Fetzer is celebrating their 50th anniversary. Visit their website for more info.
California Wine Country continues with its series of repeat podcast episodes featuring women in the wine business, since there is no new show due to continuing Coronavirus coverage on home station KSRO. This episode with Rebecca Robinson from ZAP was originally recorded and aired on January 10, 2018.
Rebecca Robinson is today’s featured guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Rebecca is the Executive Director of ZAP, Zinfandel Advocates and Producers. ZAP will be holding ZIN EX, the Zinfandel Experience, in San Francisco, January 18-20, 2019, dedicated to Zinfandel. Robert Larsen is also back in the studio today. He spent many years at Robert Strong and now runs The Larsen Projekt. (He was last on California Wine Country in September of last year. Here is a link to the podcast of that show.) Recap of Wines Tasted Today:
2014 Acorn Zinfandel, Heritage Vines, Alegría Vineyards, Russian River Valley. 2015 Robert Biale Vineyards Zinfandel, Black Chicken, Napa Valley. 2015 Ledson Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley Reserve, Estate Ancient Vine. 2015 Armida Zinfandel, Maple Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County.
Today's tastings (click to enlarge).
First, Steve asks Dan Berger about his wine column published today in the Press Democrat. Dan tells that it is about the large number of 2017 white wines that will start to appear in the stores over the next two months. They will be very fresh and young but they would benefit from at least another 6 months in the bottle. Read the whole article here.
Dan introduces Zinfandel as a natural grape for the United States because it doesn't grow anywhere else. It was a variety that came from Europe around the turn of the previous century. It has a lot of fruit and not a lot of other places grow it. (It is grown in Italy and known by its Italian name, Primitivo.) It has a long growing season and phenomenal flavors. It can make many different styles.
Rebecca Robinson's experience in Zinfandel goes back to when she was a student at Sonoma State University. She worked in the wine industry for a while before starting as Executive Director of ZAP about 20 years ago. Rebecca Robinson on ZIN EX She describes the Zinfandel Experience, which they have been producing since 1991. They are at 3 locations this year; Thursday January 18, there is a farm to table dinner at One Market. The next day there is an educational session about growing the grape and making the wine. Then on Friday night there is a winemakers' dinner and auction to support their educational foundation. On Saturday they finish with the grand tasting at Pier 27 on the Embarcadero in San Francisco. Some events are sold out, see the websites prior to the event for all updated information.
Rebecca Robinson talks about how they are telling their story of how the California winemaking business has evolved and how they were successful at promoting big tasting events early on. Dan points out that Zinfandel has become one of the most interesting varietals in terms of vineyard designations. Joel Peterson at Ravenswood was a pioneer at this. You don't just look for the brands, you look for the vineyards. Some of the vines are over 100 years old and the flavors are consistent from year to year. He mentions that it can be made into everything from white wine to port, and you will see (and taste) all of those and everything in between at the event.
The Flights event on Friday is about carrying Zinfandel into the future. They celebrate the living treasures of the old vineyards, but the young winemakers are in a unique position to carry it forward.
Dan discusses Zinfandel as a food wine. They all had lunch today and talked about how they go with food. Lamb goes well with Zinfandel, says Steve. The 2014 Acorn Russian River Zinfandel that they are tasting is a good example. It should be decanted at least, or left in the cellar for several years.
California Wine Country continues with its series of repeat podcast episodes featuring women in the wine business, since there is no new show due to continuing Coronavirus coverage on home station KSRO. This episode with Rebecca Robinson from ZAP was originally recorded and aired on January 10, 2018.
Rebecca Robinson is today’s featured guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Rebecca is the Executive Director of ZAP, Zinfandel Advocates and Producers. ZAP will be holding ZIN EX, the Zinfandel Experience, in San Francisco, January 18-20, 2019, dedicated to Zinfandel. Robert Larsen is also back in the studio today. He spent many years at Robert Strong and now runs The Larsen Projekt. (He was last on California Wine Country in September of last year. Here is a link to the podcast of that show.)
Recap of Wines Tasted Today: * 2014 Acorn Zinfandel, Heritage Vines, Alegría Vineyards, Russian River Valley. * 2015 Robert Biale Vineyards Zinfandel, Black Chicken, Napa Valley. * 2015 Ledson Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley Reserve, Estate Ancient Vine. * 2015 Armida Zinfandel, Maple Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County.
Today’s tastings (click to enlarge).
First, Steve asks Dan Berger about his wine column published today in the Press Democrat. Dan tells that it is about the large number of 2017 white wines that will start to appear in the stores over the next two months. They will be very fresh and young but they would benefit from at least another 6 months in the bottle. Read the whole article here.
Dan introduces Zinfandel as a natural grape for the United States because it doesn’t grow anywhere else. It was a variety that came from Europe around the turn of the previous century. It has a lot of fruit and not a lot of other places grow it. (It is grown in Italy and known by its Italian name, Primitivo.) It has a long growing season and phenomenal flavors. It can make many different styles.
Rebecca Robinson’s experience in Zinfandel goes back to when she was a student at Sonoma State University. She worked in the wine industry for a while before starting as Executive Director of ZAP about 20 years ago.
Rebecca Robinson on ZIN EX She describes the Zinfandel Experience, which they have been producing since 1991. They are at 3 locations this year; Thursday January 18, there is a farm to table dinner at One Market. The next day there is an educational session about growing the grape and making the wine. Then on Friday night there is a winemakers’ dinner and auction to support their educational foundation. On Saturday they finish with the grand tasting at Pier 27 on the Embarcadero in San Francisco. Some events are sold out, see the websites prior to the event for all updated information.
Rebecca Robinson talks about how they are telling their story of how the California winemaking business has evolved and how they were successful at promoting big tasting events early on. Dan points out that Zinfandel has become one of the most interesting varietals in terms of vineyard designations. Joel Peterson at Ravenswood was a pioneer at this. You don’t just look for the brands, you look for the vineyards. Some of the vines are over 100 years old and the flavors are consistent from year to year. He mentions that it can be made into everything from white wine to port, and you will see (and taste) all of those and everything in between at the event.
The Flights event on Friday is about carrying Zinfandel into the future. They celebrate the living treasures of the old vineyards, but the young winemakers are in a unique position to carry it forward.
Dan discusses Zinfandel as a food wine. They all had lunch today and talked about how they go with food. Lamb goes well with Zinfandel, says Steve. The 2014 Acorn Russian River Zinfandel that they are tasting is a good example. It should be decanted at least, or left in the cellar for several years. They thought that other dishes would be better with other Zinfandels that are not as assertive as that one.
Next, after the break, they taste some 2015 Zins, starting with a Robert Biale Black Chicken Zinfandel, which is a vineyard designation. It’s medium bodied, not as heavy and alcoholic as many others, with good structure, well balanced with nice oak aging.
The Zinfandel Aroma Wheel was developed by Prof. Ann Noble of UC Davis in 1994 after extensive research and is sponsored by ZAP.
Robert Larsen agrees and tells how this Zin, by comparison, in from Napa Valley, and that reminds him of the variety of Zins that will be there at the Zinfandel Experience tasting. They are 3rd generation Napa Valley Zin growers. Only 2% of vineyards in Napa Valley are planted to Zinfandel. Dan mentions that you can understand why, if you can get $150 per bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, you might as well just plant that.
Dan says it was aged in French oak and has a bit of mint and cranberry in the aroma. It has good structure, finished on the tongue with lots of fruit. It would go well with beef stew cooked with bay leaf for aromatics. The Biale sells for $48, and Robert Larsen mentions that similar ones go as high as $60.
Dan mentions that Pinot Noir is so popular with collectors but Zinfandel is popular too because it can be drunk right away without long time in the cellar. It can really open up with just a couple of hours in the decanter and that releases the flavors, primarily of strawberries, that is in it. He says they opened a bottle of 1976 Ridge Zinfandel last Saturday night and it was fabulous. They also had a bottle of 1980 Hacienda del Rio Zinfandel from the Jack Hess Hill vineyard (the Martinelli property) and it was in great shape like the other one.
Dan observes that people really do love Zinfandel, especially the vineyard designations. Joel Peterson of Ravenswood has led the way in this regard, also Rob Berglund at Joseph Swan has worked to preserve the old vineyards. Rebecca Robinson notes that part of their mission is to spread the word and to help people understand and appreciate Zinfandel.
Rebecca Robinson describes the different events within events planned for this year’s ZIN EX, The Zinfandel Experience. For example, at the Grand Tasting on Saturday, anyone attending can join a small intimate “Meet the Maker” session. There will be more than 40 of them all day and it’s a chance to ask the winemakers about the wine. For example, you can ask why they use French or American oak, which Dan points out can give very different results.
There will also be an interactive exhibit with a Zinfandel Aroma Wheel (see illustration above; click on it to enlarge) and much more. It’s about the interactive nature of tasting and they want to give a full experience with Zinfandel.
Steve is fascinated by the name Black Chicken, which is a vineyard in Napa, one of Robert Biale’s vineyards. It’s the third wine down on this web page at Robert Biale’s website. It is also available from this shop page on the same site.
Next they taste a 2015 Ledson Zinfandel, a Sonoma Valley Reserve Ancient Vines estate wine. Not quite as assertive as the Biale, a little more evidence of French oak, says Dan. His only objection is its price $86, but he understands, since some of these old vines produce much less per acre, than most others.
After the break, and a plug for the podcast, they give away a pair of tickets. Rebecca Robinson notes that one of the unique features of ZIN EX is that attendees have the opportunity to talk with the winemakers. The lucky winner is Jody from Petaluma.
The fourth tasting is the Armida 2015 Zinfandel from Maple Vineyards in Dry Creek Valley, which Dan says is one of the finest vineyards in Sonoma County. Tom and Tina Maple really know what they are doing. It’s made in a more delicate style. This is $42 per bottle and Dan Berger says that’s a special price for a wine that typifies what Dry Creek Valley does best. It’s one of the greatest regions for Zinfandel in the US.
We continue our series of repeat podcasts featuring women in the wine business, while regular programming has been interrupted for Coronavirus coverage on our home radio station KSRO in Santa Rosa. This episode was recorded live on December 13, 2017. Enjoy!
Ana Diogo-Draper of Artesa Winery joins Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Barry Herbst today.
(L-R) Ana Diogo-Draper and Dan Berger.
Ana Diogo-Draper started at Artesa in 2013, became head winemaker in 2015, and we have some 2015 wines to try today. The winery has been around for quite a while, Dan says the winery, which is located in the Carneros region of Napa Valley, is a beautiful building. Ana expains that her winemaking style is intended to bring out the characteristics of the terroir which has a unique combination of limestone, sandstone and silt loam soils, and they are able to achieve a beautiful minerality and acidity in their white wines. They also have a lot of hillsides and ridges, which makes for beautiful concentraion of flavor in the Pinot Noirs. Her method is all about acidity, watching that more than the sugars.
Ana tells how she learned her winemaking skills in Portugal then came to California in 2005, got married and has been here since then. She always wanted to work in agriculture and then realized she wanted to work with wine, after a semester of a winemaking class at university in Portugal.
Steve asks what the difference is between California and Portuguese wines and she says the main difference is acidity, the wines in California are more acid driven, while the Portuguese wines are lighter and frutier.
Dan comments on an Alberiño wine, which is rare in California and more common in Spain and Portugal. It has a slightly Pinot Gris-like aroma but with a spicy aroma typical of other varieties. Ana says it’s very floral and bright, low alcohol. Dan mentions that it is completely dry and more subtle than, say, a Gewurtztraminer.
Dan mentions that a Spanish architect was brought in to design the winery and Ana says he just redecorated the tasting room too. They are redeveloping the vineyards now, studying clones and rootstocks that are best suited to their property. Dan mentions that the property is near Hyde Vineyards and that it is a special region, not often seen.
Ana Diogo-Draper holds a degree in Agricultural Engineering from the University in Évora, Portugal, which is in the region that produces cork trees.
They taste a special vineyard designate Cardonnay, which is very subtle, without heavy oak flavors and good acidity. Dan is impressed that the Artesa website lists the acid levels in their wines. Barry says that people who appreciate balance in wines will like this. He also mentions that Portuguese wines are more and more popular at Bottle Barn.
Artesa Winery (click to enlarge).
Ana Diogo-Draper was exposed to making homemade wine while growing up in Portugal, but not commercially. Dan explains the differences between Spanish and Portuguese wines. Portuguese wines get influenced by their coastal geography, while southern Spanish wines have more Mediterranean characteristcs. Portugal makes light white wines in the north too. They are hard to pronounce but delicious to drink.
After the break, they discuss the Alberiño, which Dan says could be called a semi-aromatic variety. He says if you ferment it cold, as she did, you can taste the citrus blossom flavors. Next they open a sparkling wine, a 2013 Gran Riserva Brut bottled under the Artesa label with Cornonìu Napa. It is 100% from the estate, 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay. They make it on the property (with a lot of special equipment).
Next they taste a second Artesa Chardonnay, a 2015 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay, made with different clones and sun exposure, and picked based on acidity. About 20% is fermented in stainless steel and only about 20-25 % goes through malolactic fermentation. Dan says that Chardonnay usually needs 3-4 years to come together.
We continue our series of repeat podcasts featuring women in the wine business, while regular programming has been interrupted for Coronavirus coverage on our home radio station KSRO in Santa Rosa. This episode was recorded live on December 13, 2017. Enjoy!
Ana Diogo-Draper of Artesa Winery joins Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Barry Herbst today.
(L-R) Ana Diogo-Draper and Dan Berger.
Ana Diogo-Draper started at Artesa in 2013, became head winemaker in 2015, and we have some 2015 wines to try today. The winery has been around for quite a while, Dan says the winery, which is located in the Carneros region of Napa Valley, is a beautiful building. Ana expains that her winemaking style is intended to bring out the characteristics of the terroir which has a unique combination of limestone, sandstone and silt loam soils, and they are able to achieve a beautiful minerality and acidity in their white wines. They also have a lot of hillsides and ridges, which makes for beautiful concentraion of flavor in the Pinot Noirs. Her method is all about acidity, watching that more than the sugars.
Ana tells how she learned her winemaking skills in Portugal then came to California in 2005, got married and has been here since then. She always wanted to work in agriculture and then realized she wanted to work with wine, after a semester of a winemaking class at university in Portugal.
Steve asks what the difference is between California and Portuguese wines and she says the main difference is acidity, the wines in California are more acid driven, while the Portuguese wines are lighter and frutier.
Dan comments on an Alberiño wine, which is rare in California and more common in Spain and Portugal. It has a slightly Pinot Gris-like aroma but with a spicy aroma typical of other varieties. Ana says it’s very floral and bright, low alcohol. Dan mentions that it is completely dry and more subtle than, say, a Gewurtztraminer.
Dan mentions that a Spanish architect was brought in to design the winery and Ana says he just redecorated the tasting room too. They are redeveloping the vineyards now, studying clones and rootstocks that are best suited to their property. Dan mentions that the property is near Hyde Vineyards and that it is a special region, not often seen.
Ana Diogo-Draper holds a degree in Agricultural Engineering from the University in Évora, Portugal, which is in the region that produces cork trees.
They taste a special vineyard designate Cardonnay, which is very subtle, without heavy oak flavors and good acidity. Dan is impressed that the Artesa website lists the acid levels in their wines. Barry says that people who appreciate balance in wines will like this. He also mentions that Portuguese wines are more and more popular at Bottle Barn.
Artesa Winery (click to enlarge).
Ana Diogo-Draper was exposed to making homemade wine while growing up in Portugal, but not commercially. Dan explains the differences between Spanish and Portuguese wines. Portuguese wines get influenced by their coastal geography, while southern Spanish wines have more Mediterranean characteristcs. Portugal makes light white wines in the north too. They are hard to pronounce but delicious to drink.
After the break, they discuss the Alberiño, which Dan says could be called a semi-aromatic variety. He says if you ferment it cold, as she did, you can taste the citrus blossom flavors. Next they open a sparkling wine, a 2013 Gran Riserva Brut bottled under the Artesa label with Cornonìu Napa. It is 100% from the estate, 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay. They make it on the property (with a lot of special equipment).
Next they taste a second Artesa Chardonnay, a 2015 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay, made with different clones and sun exposure, and picked based on acidity. About 20% is fermented in stainless steel and only about 20-25 % goes through malolactic fermentation. Dan says that Chardonnay usually needs 3-4 years to come together. This one has fruit up front and some subtle acidity, to carry it. Barry says a lot of what you’re paying for in a fine wine is the ability for it to age, in two, to five to seven years. Dan says to trust the winemaker. If they tell you it will age well, or not, they know. They see the whole process, from the fruit to the juice to the fermentation all the way through production and they know all the “numbers.”
Dan declares that Lisbon is a gorgeous city and very cosmopolitan. (Your podcast editor wholeheartedly agrees.)
Next they taste a Syrah that Barry Herbst brought, from Quivet Cellars in the Las Madres vineyard, off Hwy 121 before Carneros. Dan says it has an earthy character and to open it, decant it and wait a day or more. Dan says it’s classic Syrah, perfect for a steak. He says it has the stamp of Syrah made in the Rhône Valley, good acidity and plenty of tannin.
The next tasting is a great Pinot Noir, also 100% from the estate. It is 100% native ferment. Dan says it has some red cherry and blackberry, with a weight and a depth that is elegant in the finish. Dan suggests it would go well with rare roast beef, which would not overpower the wine, as a steak would. Dan says this a style that can come to define the Carneros region.
“Established in Barcelona 1551, the 17th generation still runs the company, which is the oldest company in Spain, not just the oldest wine producer. Ana gives credit to her team, that as the winemaker she gets the recognition but that they deserve the recognition too.
Dan in closing says that Ana Diogo-Draper has brought a sense of purpose and direction to what this property has always done. What is important to him and his readers is that these wines are made for the dinner table, even if they are good alone too. Ana’s wines are equally good for opening and drinking, or for enjoying with food.
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There is no new California Wine Country episode this week, due to statewide Coronavirus precautions. For this week's podcast episode, we begin a series of reruns of episodes that feature women in the wine business. This episode was originally broadcast on August 23, 2017. Cheers!
Megan Schofield, winemaker for Robert Mondavi Winery, joins Tom Simoneau, Dan Berger and Steve Jaxon, who are all excited to have a 2014 Robert Mondavi To Kalon I-Block Fumé Blanc to taste, which is a rare treat.
Steve asks Tom to tell about Mondavi and how Robert Mondavi had a falling out with a brother about the direction of the family winery. He started it in 1966. He brought Napa Valley into the forefront, was the master marketer. Tom considered Robert Mondovi to be a mentor in the business. He brought a class to the vineyard.
Megan Schofield
The To Kalon I-Block is the particular parcel that produces an astounding Sauvignon Blanc. Dan says it needs a lot of time in the bottle and is similar to the greatest wines of the eastern Loire Valley in France. Most people just don’t put it away long enough, it needs 7 to 10 years. It can only be purchased at the winery, not at retail. Dan says this particular wine is worth the trip over the hill.
Megan tells that she has been at Mondavi for about two and a half years and she is one of three winemakers there. She handles the Burgundian reds and this year the Sauvignon Blanc. They have another Bordeaux red winemaker and their director is Geneviève Janssens. She grew up in Canada in the Niagra region and saw a career path with her college, Brock University, had opened to train Canadian winemakers. She has worked as a winemaker for many years at different wineries including Simi Winery.
Steve tells how Mondavi is known for both technical winemaking and marketing. He promoted labeling wines varietally rather than generically.
Dan knew Bob Mondavi well and says he was dedicated to the overall quality of wines especially from Napa Valley. He encouraged quality above all else. The feud he had with his brother in the mid-60s caused a separation. Part of the reason was that Bob wanted to focus on quality. They were both reared in Charles Krug winery. Bob wanted to emphasize the greatness of the different varieties. He changed the name of his Sauvignon Blanc to Fumé Blanc, which is the name they have always used. He was also into comparisons with the best European wines. He said, “We belong at the table with the best wines.” From 1966 to 1970 they were on the road 300 days a year for four years, selling aggressively.
Tom tells the legend that there was a train that passed by a vineyard leaving a trail of smoke and dust and that inspired the name. Pouilly Fumé and Sancerre are the French names.
Now they taste the To Kalon I-block wine. To Kalon is a very special piece of soil that Robert Mondavi discovered to produce some of the finest wines he was making. Megan explains that it is Greek and roughly means “highest beauty” and the name came from the vineyard owner in 1800s and that Robert Mondavi used the name.
Dan says that it gets less total sun because it is shaded by a hearby hill. Megan says it is only about 5 acres and produces only 250-300 cases per year.
Dan, of course, suggests that this wine needs 6-10 years in the cellar. He tells that it is made with great care. There is a little hazelnut flavor in the wine. Megan says it does get lies contact, so it has more body than other Sauvignon Blancs. This bottle is sold only at the winery and goes for $90. They believe the vines were planted in 1945 and they think they may be the oldest Sauvignon Blanc grapes in America.
Next they taste a Chardonnay. Tom says he told Megan that Steve likes Chardonnay so she brought a special Reserve Mondavi 2014 Carneros Chardonnay. Steve is in love! Dan suggests this would go with seafood, such as fresh Halibut. Tom describes this Chardonnay as creamy, with good acidity,
There is no new California Wine Country episode this week, due to statewide Coronavirus precautions. For this week’s podcast episode, we begin a series of reruns of episodes that feature women in the wine business. This episode was originally broadcast on August 23, 2017. Cheers!
Megan Schofield, winemaker for Robert Mondavi Winery, joins Tom Simoneau, Dan Berger and Steve Jaxon, who are all excited to have a 2014 Robert Mondavi To Kalon I-Block Fumé Blanc to taste, which is a rare treat.
Steve asks Tom to tell about Mondavi and how Robert Mondavi had a falling out with a brother about the direction of the family winery. He started it in 1966. He brought Napa Valley into the forefront, was the master marketer. Tom considered Robert Mondovi to be a mentor in the business. He brought a class to the vineyard.
Megan Schofield
The To Kalon I-Block is the particular parcel that produces an astounding Sauvignon Blanc. Dan says it needs a lot of time in the bottle and is similar to the greatest wines of the eastern Loire Valley in France. Most people just don’t put it away long enough, it needs 7 to 10 years. It can only be purchased at the winery, not at retail. Dan says this particular wine is worth the trip over the hill.
Megan tells that she has been at Mondavi for about two and a half years and she is one of three winemakers there. She handles the Burgundian reds and this year the Sauvignon Blanc. They have another Bordeaux red winemaker and their director is Geneviève Janssens. She grew up in Canada in the Niagra region and saw a career path with her college, Brock University, had opened to train Canadian winemakers. She has worked as a winemaker for many years at different wineries including Simi Winery.
Steve tells how Mondavi is known for both technical winemaking and marketing. He promoted labeling wines varietally rather than generically.
Dan knew Bob Mondavi well and says he was dedicated to the overall quality of wines especially from Napa Valley. He encouraged quality above all else. The feud he had with his brother in the mid-60s caused a separation. Part of the reason was that Bob wanted to focus on quality. They were both reared in Charles Krug winery. Bob wanted to emphasize the greatness of the different varieties. He changed the name of his Sauvignon Blanc to Fumé Blanc, which is the name they have always used. He was also into comparisons with the best European wines. He said, “We belong at the table with the best wines.” From 1966 to 1970 they were on the road 300 days a year for four years, selling aggressively.
Tom tells the legend that there was a train that passed by a vineyard leaving a trail of smoke and dust and that inspired the name. Pouilly Fumé and Sancerre are the French names.
Now they taste the To Kalon I-block wine. To Kalon is a very special piece of soil that Robert Mondavi discovered to produce some of the finest wines he was making. Megan explains that it is Greek and roughly means “highest beauty” and the name came from the vineyard owner in 1800s and that Robert Mondavi used the name.
Dan says that it gets less total sun because it is shaded by a hearby hill. Megan says it is only about 5 acres and produces only 250-300 cases per year.
Dan, of course, suggests that this wine needs 6-10 years in the cellar. He tells that it is made with great care. There is a little hazelnut flavor in the wine. Megan says it does get lies contact, so it has more body than other Sauvignon Blancs. This bottle is sold only at the winery and goes for $90. They believe the vines were planted in 1945 and they think they may be the oldest Sauvignon Blanc grapes in America.
Next they taste a Chardonnay. Tom says he told Megan that Steve likes Chardonnay so she brought a special Reserve Mondavi 2014 Carneros Chardonnay. Steve is in love! Dan suggests this would go with seafood, such as fresh Halibut. Tom describes this Chardonnay as creamy, with good acidity, a little bit of lemon, complexity as the finish comes on is mouth-watering. It has just the right amount of toasty oak. Dan says that oak taste is revolutionary. There is more restraint and structure in it. It has good acidity, a low pH for a Chardonnay. 13.5% alcohol is low enough not to be overpowering. Megan says they experiment carefully with which oak barrels to use.
Next they taste the 50th anniversary Robert Mondavi Winery Reserve 2013 To Kalon Oakville Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Tom says he notices that the fruit is very forward. He doesn’t like a wine that is clobbered with oak or volatile acidity. He tastes currant, mocha, black cherry, blackberry, wrapped with oak, and that’s just in the nose. Of course, Dan says it needs about 10 more years. Megan points out that To Kalon is known for its tannins and its power and that year was particularly strong for that. The oak is still prominent because the wine is young.
They also taste a George DuBoeuf Beaujolais, which is meant not to be cellared. “It’s just quaffing wine.” Dan says they are growing these grapes in Oregon and Michigan too. This isn’t Steve’s favorite.
Last they taste a Robert Mondavi Winery Reserve 2015 Carneros Pinot Noir, from two different vineyards. Dan says that if it’s to be drunk now, to decant it.
Jeff Gaffner
Jeff Gaffner, winemaker for Black Kite Cellars, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, after a three-year absence from the show. (Here is the last show he appeared on, recorded in March of 2017.) Barry Herbst from our sponsor Bottle Barn is not in this week.
Right off the bat, they taste a 10-year-old Black Kite Semillon, as Jeff tells the story of Black Kite Cellars. The owners opened Black Kite Cellars in 2003 and Jeff Gaffner came on in 2004. His first vintage was 2005. They have different estate vineyard blocks and early on, he decided to focus Black Kite's production on vineyard-specific wines. They produce 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. Their grapes used to all come from their own properties but now they source some fruit from a few favorite vineyards in other regions of California.
Saxon Brown is Jeff Gaffner's personal brand which he calls his R&D brand. He started it in 1997 and named it after his favorite female literary character, from Jack London's Valley of the Moon. With his own brand he can take winemaking risks and experiment with ideas that he wouldn't try with his clients' production. The Semillon they are tasting is a Saxon Brown wine. He calls it his "I told you so wine." To make a point, he decided to keep about 20 cases back, to be aged. Now, it has completely different complexity than it had before, after 10 years. Jeff Gaffner tells about how Semillon has a low pH which helps it age well.
There's not much Semillon in California, there was back in the '40s and '50s when people used it in blends, says Dan. Next they taste a 2017 Black Kite Chardonnay that is just being released now. "Oh man!" says Steve. It's from Sonoma Coast, Gap's Crown vineyard. This is a great example of what Jeff does, selecting specific vineyards with unique flavors then making a unique vineyard-specific wine from that. Later Dan says this needs at least two years in the bottle. Steve sums it up, "As a Chardonnay freak, I say Two Thumbs Up Sir!"
The name of Black Kite Cellars comes from the Black-Shouldered Kite, a bird of prey seen in northern California. They also are called Angel Hawks. They're one of the few birds of prey that can hover as they hunt.
They taste Redwood's Edge Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley. It's a cold region and north facing so really cold. The flavors come out slowly. It is very young so it should be decanted, or opened today and enjoyed tomorrow, or cellared for ten years. It tastes young and if you swirl it for two hours you can follow its evolution. Jeff Gaffner says this is his favorite Pinot Noir of 2017.
The next wine is Kite's Rest, which is Dan's favorite of Jeff's current releases. This is a blend that includes Redwood's Edge but also a couple of others. It's also a 2017. It has fruit from the two other blocks, the Stony Terrace and River Turn.
Dan Berger says that Black Kite may be under the radar and hard to find, up in the Anderson Valley, but they have a tasting room at Grand Cru in Windsor. "It's like bragging about your kids, it's not that hard," says Jeff.
Jeff Gaffner
Jeff Gaffner, winemaker for Black Kite Cellars, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, after a three-year absence from the show. (Here is the last show he appeared on, recorded in March of 2017.) Barry Herbst from our sponsor Bottle Barn is not in this week.
Right off the bat, they taste a 10-year-old Black Kite Semillon, as Jeff tells the story of Black Kite Cellars. The owners opened Black Kite Cellars in 2003 and Jeff Gaffner came on in 2004. His first vintage was 2005. They have different estate vineyard blocks and early on, he decided to focus Black Kite’s production on vineyard-specific wines. They produce 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. Their grapes used to all come from their own properties but now they source some fruit from a few favorite vineyards in other regions of California.
Saxon Brown is Jeff Gaffner’s personal brand which he calls his R&D brand. He started it in 1997 and named it after his favorite female literary character, from Jack London’s Valley of the Moon. With his own brand he can take winemaking risks and experiment with ideas that he wouldn’t try with his clients’ production. The Semillon they are tasting is a Saxon Brown wine. He calls it his “I told you so wine.” To make a point, he decided to keep about 20 cases back, to be aged. Now, it has completely different complexity than it had before, after 10 years. Jeff Gaffner tells about how Semillon has a low pH which helps it age well.
There’s not much Semillon in California, there was back in the ’40s and ’50s when people used it in blends, says Dan. Next they taste a 2017 Black Kite Chardonnay that is just being released now. “Oh man!” says Steve. It’s from Sonoma Coast, Gap’s Crown vineyard. This is a great example of what Jeff does, selecting specific vineyards with unique flavors then making a unique vineyard-specific wine from that. Later Dan says this needs at least two years in the bottle.
Steve sums it up, “As a Chardonnay freak, I say Two Thumbs Up Sir!”
The name of Black Kite Cellars comes from the Black-Shouldered Kite, a bird of prey seen in northern California. They also are called Angel Hawks. They’re one of the few birds of prey that can hover as they hunt.
They taste Redwood’s Edge Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley. It’s a cold region and north facing so really cold. The flavors come out slowly. It is very young so it should be decanted, or opened today and enjoyed tomorrow, or cellared for ten years. It tastes young and if you swirl it for two hours you can follow its evolution. Jeff Gaffner says this is his favorite Pinot Noir of 2017.
The next wine is Kite’s Rest, which is Dan’s favorite of Jeff’s current releases. This is a blend that includes Redwood’s Edge but also a couple of others. It’s also a 2017. It has fruit from the two other blocks, the Stony Terrace and River Turn.
Dan Berger says that Black Kite may be under the radar and hard to find, up in the Anderson Valley, but they have a tasting room at Grand Cru in Windsor. “It’s like bragging about your kids, it’s not that hard,” says Jeff.
Dan Berger and Barry Herbst are with Steve Jaxon today on California Wine Country. Steve Jaxon begins by asking Dan Berger about the Wine Glut, the overabundance of wine on the market right now. Dan tells about how wine is like many other agricultural products, there are cycles of scarcity and abundance. In 2009, wine was scarce and prices were high. This year, prices are falling pretty much across the board. Even Trader Joe's has lowered the price of its Charles Shaw "Two-buck Chuck" back to $1.99 after having moved it up to $2.49 for several years.
2020 is Bottle Barn's 30th year in business and later this year there will be lots of celebrations.
Steve takes the chance to ask wine expert Dan Berger his opinion of Two Buck Chuck. The answer, is you can't expect it to be the same wine all the time, but there is so much Cabernet Sauvignon that they sometimes do get some good values. Dan describes how Bottle Barn operates in this environment, where they focus on delivering the best value to retail buyers with their selection and prices.
Brands that were selling for $30 per bottle are selling for $12.99 today, such as a Pinot Noir that he just opened. The problem is that the supermarkets are usually not as savvy about stocking wine but if you have a smart wine buyer at a supermarket, they can have a very good stock with some great deals.
There is also a lot of consolidation happening in the wine industry now. Constellation just sold 30 brands to Gallo. Gallo is a 70 million case company and they just added another 10 million or more.
Bottle Barn is still selling a lot of SF Chronicle Competition award winners. The 2019 Rosés are about to come in. They do tastings in-store Fridays and Saturdays.
They have a bottle of Enkidu Zinfandel wine that they all enjoy. Dan and Barry agree that red wine blends are dropping in price and many more producers are adding them to their portfolios, since they give great flexibility to create products. Dan notes that between 12% to 15% of the fruit that was grown last year was not made into wine, there was so much. Barry Herbst has noticed that some producers are discounting upon release. This is a good time to be a retail wine buyer, as Dan Berger reminds us that these are excellent wines that simply can't sell at their previously expected prices.
Dan Berger and Barry Herbst are with Steve Jaxon today on California Wine Country. Steve Jaxon begins by asking Dan Berger about the Wine Glut, the overabundance of wine on the market right now. Dan tells about how wine is like many other agricultural products, there are cycles of scarcity and abundance. In 2009, wine was scarce and prices were high. This year, prices are falling pretty much across the board. Even Trader Joe’s has lowered the price of its Charles Shaw “Two-buck Chuck” back to $1.99 after having moved it up to $2.49 for several years.
2020 is Bottle Barn’s 30th year in business and later this year there will be lots of celebrations.
Steve takes the chance to ask wine expert Dan Berger his opinion of Two Buck Chuck. The answer, is you can’t expect it to be the same wine all the time, but there is so much Cabernet Sauvignon that they sometimes do get some good values. Dan describes how Bottle Barn operates in this environment, where they focus on delivering the best value to retail buyers with their selection and prices.
Brands that were selling for $30 per bottle are selling for $12.99 today, such as a Pinot Noir that he just opened. The problem is that the supermarkets are usually not as savvy about stocking wine but if you have a smart wine buyer at a supermarket, they can have a very good stock with some great deals.
There is also a lot of consolidation happening in the wine industry now. Constellation just sold 30 brands to Gallo. Gallo is a 70 million case company and they just added another 10 million or more.
Bottle Barn is still selling a lot of SF Chronicle Competition award winners. The 2019 Rosés are about to come in. They do tastings in-store Fridays and Saturdays.
They have a bottle of Enkidu Zinfandel wine that they all enjoy. Dan and Barry agree that red wine blends are dropping in price and many more producers are adding them to their portfolios, since they give great flexibility to create products. Dan notes that between 12% to 15% of the fruit that was grown last year was not made into wine, there was so much. Barry Herbst has noticed that some producers are discounting upon release. This is a good time to be a retail wine buyer, as Dan Berger reminds us that these are excellent wines that simply can’t sell at their previously expected prices.
Laurence Sterling from Iron Horse Vineyards is here today with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. Barry Herbst, the wine buyer at Bottle Barn, is also here.
The Iron Horse Vineyards property was one of the original post-gold-rush farm estates. The owners sold it to Rodney Strong, who had a vision in the late ‘60s and early ‘70s that it would be an ideal place to grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Then Laurence Sterling’s father who was an international attorney living in Paris, brought back a large wine collection when he bought the vineyard and moved to California. He realized that he liked Pinot Noir because his cellar had less of it because he liked to drink it.
They are tasting the 2015 Estate Chardonnay. Barry Herbst says they have it at Bottle Barn. They started a significant replanting of their vineyard in 2005, to focus on clones. 80% or so of California Chardonnay is Clone 4, the Wente clone. He wanted to get away from that by planting other clones. He had planted some Dijon clone Chardonnays, which were good for sparkling. He found two that he liked, one a version of the Wente called Heidl, and another, called Rued, after the California viticulturalist who developed it. That combination allowed them to develop a Chardonnay wine of unique character.
Dan Berger describes opening a bottle of 2005 Rued Iron Horse Chardonnay recently and letting it set in a decanter for about an hour. He says, “This stuff is just totally phenomenal. It’s why I bought as much as I did at the beginning.”
Steve asks Dan to tell him why he likes this Chard so much and the answer is, it is transitional. In another three or four or ten years this 2015 will be even better. Dan says that most California Chardonnays are not made with the carefully selected grapes and the highest level of skill in winemaking, but the Iron Horse ones are, and it shows. They can last 15-20 years.
Laurence Sterling
Their winemaker looks for a perfect oak balance and one of his techniques is to use water-bent or steam-bent barrels. Most barrel staves are bent over flame, which toasts the wood and imparts a kind of raw openness. They do toast them, but only after they have steamed them. The other trait is that they will use some malolactic fermentation, as needed.
Laurence and his wife and two children moved to Sonoma County from Los Angeles in 1990, after working there as a corporate attorney. He eventually took over vineyard operations.
They also taste a 2017 unoaked Chardonnay, which Dan Berger calls the most transparent wine you can make in California, because there is no barrel and nothing else between you and the wine. Decanting it for an hour or a day allow it to open up a lot. It’s like Chablis, with no oak, in that way.
The unoaked Chard came about “totally by accident” at first. Since their bladder press broke they had to extract the juice differently, in the de-stemmer, which had the effect of moderating the acidity. Also, barrels were scarce. So their motto is “adapt, improvise, improve.” The unoaked slightly outsells the estate Chardonnay at Bottle Barn, says Barry Herbst.
All the Wente clones date back to the Wente vineyard planted in 1913 from Chardonnay rootstock delivered from the University of Montpellier, France. From there, they distributed cuttings which ended up all over the state and nobody really kept track of where or when.
Laurence Sterling from Iron Horse Vineyards is here today with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. Barry Herbst, the wine buyer at Bottle Barn, is also here.
The Iron Horse Vineyards property was one of the original post-gold-rush farm estates. The owners sold it to Rodney Strong, who had a vision in the late ‘60s and early ‘70s that it would be an ideal place to grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Then Laurence Sterling’s father who was an international attorney living in Paris, brought back a large wine collection when he bought the vineyard and moved to California. He realized that he liked Pinot Noir because his cellar had less of it because he liked to drink it.
They are tasting the 2015 Estate Chardonnay. Barry Herbst says they have it at Bottle Barn. They started a significant replanting of their vineyard in 2005, to focus on clones. 80% or so of California Chardonnay is Clone 4, the Wente clone. He wanted to get away from that by planting other clones. He had planted some Dijon clone Chardonnays, which were good for sparkling. He found two that he liked, one a version of the Wente called Heidl, and another, called Rued, after the California viticulturalist who developed it. That combination allowed them to develop a Chardonnay wine of unique character.
Dan Berger describes opening a bottle of 2005 Rued Iron Horse Chardonnay recently and letting it set in a decanter for about an hour. He says, “This stuff is just totally phenomenal. It’s why I bought as much as I did at the beginning.”
Steve asks Dan to tell him why he likes this Chard so much and the answer is, it is transitional. In another three or four or ten years this 2015 will be even better. Dan says that most California Chardonnays are not made with the carefully selected grapes and the highest level of skill in winemaking, but the Iron Horse ones are, and it shows. They can last 15-20 years.
Laurence Sterling
Their winemaker looks for a perfect oak balance and one of his techniques is to use water-bent or steam-bent barrels. Most barrel staves are bent over flame, which toasts the wood and imparts a kind of raw openness. They do toast them, but only after they have steamed them. The other trait is that they will use some malolactic fermentation, as needed.
Laurence and his wife and two children moved to Sonoma County from Los Angeles in 1990, after working there as a corporate attorney. He eventually took over vineyard operations.
They also taste a 2017 unoaked Chardonnay, which Dan Berger calls the most transparent wine you can make in California, because there is no barrel and nothing else between you and the wine. Decanting it for an hour or a day allow it to open up a lot. It’s like Chablis, with no oak, in that way.
The unoaked Chard came about “totally by accident” at first. Since their bladder press broke they had to extract the juice differently, in the de-stemmer, which had the effect of moderating the acidity. Also, barrels were scarce. So their motto is “adapt, improvise, improve.” The unoaked slightly outsells the estate Chardonnay at Bottle Barn, says Barry Herbst.
All the Wente clones date back to the Wente vineyard planted in 1913 from Chardonnay rootstock delivered from the University of Montpellier, France. From there, they distributed cuttings which ended up all over the state and nobody really kept track of where or when.
André, The Voice of Wine
This episode was originally recorded on Wednesday, October 4, 2017. There is no new show today due to unforseen circumstances. . In this repeat episode, Ed and Adam Sbragia from Sbragia Family Vineyards and Mark Tchelistcheff join Steve Jaxon, co-host Dan Berger, Tom Simoneau and Barry Herbst.
Ed Sbragia of Sbragia Family Vineyards is introduced, with his son Adam. Ed was the winemaker at Beringer Winery for a long time but now he has started his own family winery.
Mark Tchelistcheff is the grand nephew of the great André Tchelistcheff, widely known as the godfather of wine in California. He has produced a documentary film about his great uncle, called André, The Voice of Wine, which will debut at the Mill Valley Film Festival next week (in October 2017, as this show was recorded).
The 1991 Beringer Cab magnum.
André Tchelistcheff was 92 years old when he died in 1994. Steve says that over the 8 years of this show, no name has been dropped more than André’s. Mark’s film permiered at the Berlinale, the Berlin International Film Festival, which is one of the three great international film festivals. Out of 600 films that were entered, it was one of 5 that had a gala reception and they brought California wine in for the event.
Steve asks Ed about working for Beringer. He was at Beringer for 32 years, from 1976 to 2008. He started making Sbragia Family wines at in 2001 with their first releases in 2004. Adam first started working at Beringer in 2001 and then followed his father, learning how to make Chardonnay and Cab with his father.
Tom says that after fermentation, he likes to extract every bit of flavor from the wines. They are tasting a 1991 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, in a magnum. Tom says it is concentrated and balanced and that this is an example of how long these wines can live. This one is 26 years old and still needs more time. They even age slower in a magnum, as Adam explains surface area to volume ratio. Dan says what is impressive in this wine is the level of fruit. He remembers that it was a good vintage. 1990 and 1991 were back-to-back excellent vintages. This one really shows that. Dan reminds us that in those days that wine would not get released until 1995, as they were on a four-year release cycle. Today wines get released after 2 and a half years. Ed says that most of the vineyards for this wine were from high in the hills, where the vines had to struggle and then produced very intense wines.
Dan says that despite it being 26 years old, it is still a baby and will still age well from this point. That’s why Steve calls him Dan “Lay it Down” Berger, the most patient wine collector in the world.
Steve reads that André Tchelistcheff was America’s most influential post-prohibition winemaker. Mark mentions the different spellings and pronunciations of the name, in different languages and countries where he lived, but that when he worked with Ralph Fiennes on the narration, they settled on the Russian pronunciation, “chel-LEEST-cheff” more or less. Mark describes going to live in Russia to get André’s “terroir” and how he worked with a top Russian composer and orchestra for the music. He even found the original 1925 Cadillac in which George de la Tour drove André drove over the Golden Gate Bridge in 1938 when he first arrived here.
It took him ten years to produce the movie, with financing from different sources, in cluding some important winemakers who are in the film and who were touched by André. He hopes that his spirit of sharing comes through in the movie. He got production funding from some important wine makers and he was able to spend time with people, with the winemakers who made the wine, to remember André.
Ed and Adam Sbragia have brought a Chardonnay, which is Steve’s favorite wine.
Ed was working at Foppiano Wine Co in 1975, when André was a consultant up at Simi Winery. He got a pink powder at the bottom of a bottling tank. It had been filtered and was clean. He called André to ask about it and he said it was yeast. He looked underneath and said, “Hmm. Pink yeast.” Another time he had to give a history of the Napa Valley in front of André and an audience. He somehow managed.
Next they taste a 2013 Gamble Ranch Chardonnay. Ed explains that he has used the same Block 15, same vineyard, with black clay soil. It’s between Yountville and Oakville. It’s a slightly warmer area for Chardonnay but it produces a massive wine.
Dan says Chardonnay is red wine with no color. It’s fermented in brand new barrels, 15-18 months. He used to stir the lies once a month, now his son Adam does it once a week, and they top off the barrel.
As Steve wipes up a little wine spill, his first in 9 years, he asks Ed to talk about their slogan, “One foot in Napa, one foot in Sonoma.” Adam lives in the same house his father and grandfather lived in. It is at the end of Dry Creek Valley. His great grandfather came from Italy in the 1880s, one of the earliest. He got degrees from UC Davis and Fresno St., and he worked in every area of winemaking, “on the tractor” and “in the winery.” They have access to a lot of single vineyards on both sides, which he describes.
Dan says this wine needs 3-5 more years. Ed says he has some that are 10 years old and still need time.
Tom says he’s a red wine guy but when he drinks whites he wants character in it and this delivers. Dan says it’s complicated and expensive to make. 100% new French oak, the barrel time and bottle aging all add costs to the production.
The film is called André the Voice of Wine. There is a film clip where he is asked, “How will you be remembered?” He answers, “maybe as the voice of wine.” Mark says he’s a little nervous because a lot of the winemakers he interviewed for the film will be attending the screening at the Mill Valley Film Festival.
André was born in Russia into an aristocratic family in 1901. His father was a supreme court judge. The family was well to do and always had wine and champagne, which were mainly French wines, there at that time. He was also given a vineyard as a young man, in Crimea. So he was connected to wine from an early age. He survived three revolutions, left for dead, and he was saved by a Cossack. He lost everything and left Russia with the other troops who escaped Russia into Constantinople. He fought in the Bulgarian Civil War then went to University in Brno, Czech. His first wine was Tokay. He was a farmer at heart, but his farm was destroyed by a hailstorm the size of quail eggs and his livestock was killed. Because of that he went back to wine. He attended the Pasteur Institute in Paris. He came to California in September 1938. He was always very modest about what he did, but the story is that George de la Tour went to France to find a top enologist, so he asked the faculty at Paris for the best winemaker and recommended André. He has copies of all the original telexes of the correspondence to get him here. He came by train across America and was picked up in San Francisco. He thought Beaulieu was the most beautiful place ever. There were servants in white gloves. But after a year he almost left, because of the state of the winery. He had to be convinced to stay. They had rusty iron pipes and he rebuilt everything into clean modern equipment. He taught how to make wine and also viticulture. Dan says he was way ahead of his time: “Prohibition ended in 1933 and André got here in 1938. We were still gearing up.” Developing the wine business was slow but he did more than anyone. He was also the first one to open a lab in Napa Valley. He took the winery out of cobwebs and made it work.
Mark says he shot the movie to show it in the theaters. The cameras and sound are made to look and sound great in a theater. So the visual experience is worth seeing it in a theater, instead of on a small screen.
Tom Simoneau wants to taste the 2013 Monte Rosso Cabernet Sauvignon. He considers it the Gran Cru of Sonoma County, at about 1000 feet in the foothills on the east side.
André, The Voice of Wine
This episode was originally recorded on Wednesday, October 4, 2017. There is no new show today due to unforseen circumstances. . In this repeat episode, Ed and Adam Sbragia from Sbragia Family Vineyards and Mark Tchelistcheff join Steve Jaxon, co-host Dan Berger, Tom Simoneau and Barry Herbst.
Ed Sbragia of Sbragia Family Vineyards is introduced, with his son Adam. Ed was the winemaker at Beringer Winery for a long time but now he has started his own family winery.
Mark Tchelistcheff is the grand nephew of the great André Tchelistcheff, widely known as the godfather of wine in California. He has produced a documentary film about his great uncle, called André, The Voice of Wine, which will debut at the Mill Valley Film Festival next week (in October 2017, as this show was recorded).
The 1991 Beringer Cab magnum.
André Tchelistcheff was 92 years old when he died in 1994. Steve says that over the 8 years of this show, no name has been dropped more than André’s. Mark’s film permiered at the Berlinale, the Berlin International Film Festival, which is one of the three great international film festivals. Out of 600 films that were entered, it was one of 5 that had a gala reception and they brought California wine in for the event.
Steve asks Ed about working for Beringer. He was at Beringer for 32 years, from 1976 to 2008. He started making Sbragia Family wines at in 2001 with their first releases in 2004. Adam first started working at Beringer in 2001 and then followed his father, learning how to make Chardonnay and Cab with his father.
Tom says that after fermentation, he likes to extract every bit of flavor from the wines. They are tasting a 1991 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, in a magnum. Tom says it is concentrated and balanced and that this is an example of how long these wines can live. This one is 26 years old and still needs more time. They even age slower in a magnum, as Adam explains surface area to volume ratio. Dan says what is impressive in this wine is the level of fruit. He remembers that it was a good vintage. 1990 and 1991 were back-to-back excellent vintages. This one really shows that. Dan reminds us that in those days that wine would not get released until 1995, as they were on a four-year release cycle. Today wines get released after 2 and a half years. Ed says that most of the vineyards for this wine were from high in the hills, where the vines had to struggle and then produced very intense wines.
Dan says that despite it being 26 years old, it is still a baby and will still age well from this point. That’s why Steve calls him Dan “Lay it Down” Berger, the most patient wine collector in the world.
Steve reads that André Tchelistcheff was America’s most influential post-prohibition winemaker. Mark mentions the different spellings and pronunciations of the name, in different languages and countries where he lived, but that when he worked with Ralph Fiennes on the narration, they settled on the Russian pronunciation, “chel-LEEST-cheff” more or less. Mark describes going to live in Russia to get André’s “terroir” and how he worked with a top Russian composer and orchestra for the music. He even found the original 1925 Cadillac in which George de la Tour drove André drove over the Golden Gate Bridge in 1938 when he first arrived here.
It took him ten years to produce the movie, with financing from different sources, in cluding some important winemakers who are in the film and who were touched by André. He hopes that his spirit of sharing comes through in the movie. He got production funding from some important wine makers and he was able to spend time with people, with the winemakers who made the wine, to remember André.
Ed and Adam Sbragia have brought a Chardonnay, which is Steve’s favorite wine.
Ed was working at Foppiano Wine Co in 1975, when André was a consultant up at Simi Winery. He got a pink powder at the bottom of a bottlin...
Nicole Hitchcock
Nicole Hitchcock is our featured guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. She is the winemaker of J Vineyards and Winery. Her colleague Chef Carl Shelton is also here and he has brought several delicious appetizers. Tom Simoneau is also on today’s show.
The show starts with a cork popping out of a magnum bottle of J Cuvée 20 sparkling wine. This was Tom Simoneau’s Sparkling Wine of the Year for 2019 and J Vineyards and Winery was his Winery of the Year.
J Cuvée 20 Magnum
Tom and Nicole agree that sparkling wines age better in magnum bottles. “We don’t mess around at J,” says Nicole, about how their wines age gracefully in the bottle. This is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and a little Pinot Meunier, which is a rare classic variety of grape grown in Champagne and elsewhere in France and is often used in sparkling wines. Tom says it’s similar to Pinot Noir but with a bit more complexity. There is very little Pinot Meunier grown in California, these grapes come from Russian River Valley. She likes the earthy note and red fruit flavors and the fact that it evolves a little more rapidly than Pinot Noir.
A sparkling wine producer has to understand a lot of work, starting with the plain wine, then producing the bubbles. Carl Shelton points out that the entire process is done by hand, for the Magnums. They produced about 1000 cases of the Cuvée 20. Dan Berger says it is fabulous now but about 3 years away from being even more fabulous. This wine did spend 3 years on the yeast, but the bottle time is also critical, if your storage is cool enough.
Dan has recently found that you don’t age these bottles on the side, because the corks will become waterlogged. “Stand ’em up!,” says Dan “Lay it Down” Berger.
Carl Shelton has brought some cheese with accoutrements, which he describes. This is what they serve every day at J Vineyards and Winery. They try to change the cheese plate about every 8-10 weeks. Whether you take the sparkling menu, the pinot menu or the variety menu, your appetizers will pair with whatever flight you get. It’s a tricky choice because each cheese has to go with all three wine selections. They try to have as much cheese from California as possible, but in order not to repeat themselves they also use artisinal cheeses from “off the beaten path.” There are many ways to enjoy some food with the wine, at J Vineyards and Winery.
Carl Shelton’s appetizers.
This J Cuvée 20 sparkling wine is a non-vintage wine, as are most sparkling wines. Dan tells about the reserve wines that winemakers keep, in order to blend it into the wine from year to year. This makes the wine more stable but makes it impossible to assign a vintage date (by law, once you have over 5% of the blend from another year).
This is a dry sparkling wine, but because of the Pinot Noir in it, has a little more fruity flavor. Dan says you can smell the Pinot Noir right away as soon as you open it.
Tom reminds listeners that the local wineries and tasting rooms are open, despite the fires.
Next they have the 2015 vintage Blanc de Noirs. This is 93% Pinot Noir and 7% Pinot Meunier. There is a different flavor profile for each of these sparklers. The first one has more acidity, the second was all strawberries and this third one has French and California combined. Carl says it is his favorite wine to pair with because it is so versatile.
Some pairings are contrasting, or else complimentary. Their goal is to open people up to the possibilities of what food can do for wine and vice versa. He will taste something in the wine and then he will try to find a food that will bring that to the forefront.
They also taste some still wines. J Winery is known for sparkling wines but they also produce still wines, such as the 2017 Chardonnay that they are tasting. This is the Bow Tie Chardonnay from Bow Tie Vineyard in Healdsburg. The Clone Z has a floral quality, with jasmine and marmalade.
They are open 7 days a week, where you can choose 3 different flights, all of which is paired with a special selection of cheeses, done with their in-house accoutrements. In the summer they also do oysters. Their feature is the Bubble Room, with 5 or 6 courses each paired with wine. It features whatever is in season and Carl and Nicole determine the pairings.
Finally they taste the 2016 Canfield Vineyard Pinot Noir. The vineyard is in the south part of Russian River AVA and it is influenced by the Petaluma Gap. It is a lot cooler, it is some of the last fruit they pick each season. “Big earthy, savory characters,” says Nicole.
Nicole Hitchcock
Nicole Hitchcock is our featured guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. She is the winemaker of J Vineyards and Winery. Her colleague Chef Carl Shelton is also here and he has brought several delicious appetizers. Tom Simoneau is also on today's show.
The show starts with a cork popping out of a magnum bottle of J Cuvée 20 sparkling wine. This was Tom Simoneau’s Sparkling Wine of the Year for 2019 and J Vineyards and Winery was his Winery of the Year.
J Cuvée 20 Magnum
Tom and Nicole agree that sparkling wines age better in magnum bottles. "We don't mess around at J," says Nicole, about how their wines age gracefully in the bottle. This is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and a little Pinot Meunier, which is a rare classic variety of grape grown in Champagne and elsewhere in France and is often used in sparkling wines. Tom says it's similar to Pinot Noir but with a bit more complexity. There is very little Pinot Meunier grown in California, these grapes come from Russian River Valley. She likes the earthy note and red fruit flavors and the fact that it evolves a little more rapidly than Pinot Noir.
A sparkling wine producer has to understand a lot of work, starting with the plain wine, then producing the bubbles. Carl Shelton points out that the entire process is done by hand, for the Magnums. They produced about 1000 cases of the Cuvée 20. Dan Berger says it is fabulous now but about 3 years away from being even more fabulous. This wine did spend 3 years on the yeast, but the bottle time is also critical, if your storage is cool enough.
Dan has recently found that you don't age these bottles on the side, because the corks will become waterlogged. "Stand 'em up!," says Dan "Lay it Down" Berger.
Carl Shelton has brought some cheese with accoutrements, which he describes. This is what they serve every day at J Vineyards and Winery. They try to change the cheese plate about every 8-10 weeks. Whether you take the sparkling menu, the pinot menu or the variety menu, your appetizers will pair with whatever flight you get. It's a tricky choice because each cheese has to go with all three wine selections. They try to have as much cheese from California as possible, but in order not to repeat themselves they also use artisinal cheeses from "off the beaten path." There are many ways to enjoy some food with the wine, at J Vineyards and Winery.
Carl Shelton's appetizers.
This J Cuvée 20 sparkling wine is a non-vintage wine, as are most sparkling wines. Dan tells about the reserve wines that winemakers keep, in order to blend it into the wine from year to year. This makes the wine more stable but makes it impossible to assign a vintage date (by law, once you have over 5% of the blend from another year).
This is a dry sparkling wine, but because of the Pinot Noir in it, has a little more fruity flavor. Dan says you can smell the Pinot Noir right away as soon as you open it.
Tom reminds listeners that the local wineries and tasting rooms are open, despite the fires.
Next they have the 2015 vintage Blanc de Noirs. This is 93% Pinot Noir and 7% Pinot Meunier. There is a different flavor profile for each of these sparklers. The first one has more acidity, the second was all strawberries and this third one has French and California combined. Carl says it is his favorite wine to pair with because it is so versatile.
Some pairings are contrasting, or else complimentary. Their goal is to open people up to the possibilities of what food can do for wine and vice versa. He will taste something in the wine and then he will try to find a food that will bring that to the forefront.
They also taste some still wines. J Winery is known for sparkling wines but they also produce still wines, such as the 2017 Chardonnay that they are tasting. This is the Bow Tie Chardonnay from Bow Tie Vineyard in Healdsburg. The Clone Z has a floral quality,
There is no new California Wine Country show this week due to NBA basketball on our home station KSRO in Santa Rosa, CA. Here is a repeat of our show from April 26, 2017 that you may have missed, featuring winemaker Theresa Heredia from Gary Farrell Winery.
Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger welcome Barry Herbst of Bottle Barn and this week’s special guest, Theresa Heredia, the winemaker at Gary Farrell Winery.
Theresa Heredia
Steve asks Theresa Heredia to tell how she became a winemaker. She says she grew up in Pittsburgh, California, which was not a wine producing region when she grew up. She went to Cal Poly San Luis Obispo and studied microbiology. She was accepted to grad school at UC Davis, where she discovered the wine program. She heard that they were using gas chromatography, which she was using for her research. But they were also using “olfactometry” i.e. sense of taste and smell, to identify aromatic components being separated on the instrumentation. She had been doing peptide synthesis, so wine was much more interesting.
At the time UC Davis was the only big university wine program. Today there is also Fresno St., and Cal Poly San Luis Obispo has a new program. Dan points to Santa Rosa Community College too and says the programs need more funding as the industry develops. He mentions programs at Columbia, Cornell, Purdue, Michigan State (Steve’ alma mater), U. of Texas at Austin, Mississippi St. and that there are about 30 programs in the country.
Gary Farrell was a pioneer with his 1982 Pinot Noir. Back in the ‘80s people were beginning to develop name brands and get high scoring reviews. But the pioneers were coming together to make wine from what are now iconic vineyards. He built the Gary Farrell winery in 2000, retired in 2004 and now is selling classic cars. Dan says he was tired of all the different social obligations a famous vintner has, so he left the business.
He was the handyman at Davis Bynum winery, then in 1978, Hampton Bynum gave him the opportunity to make the wine, which won a Silver Medal at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair that year, where Dan was a judge. He remembers how good it was.
Theresa tells that in 2011 they were purchased by a group called Vincraft. Bill Price is one of the owners. Steve remembers that he has been on the show before. She has been at Gary Farrell Wines for almost five years.
Dan remembers knowing Gary since before his first wine came out in 1982. He says this is a winery that respects terroir and respects acidity, which together in the same bottle makes a great wine.
Theresa Heredia is proud to work with an all-star list of great vineyards. She likes to pick on the early end of the ripeness spectrum, to get better acidity, just as Gary did.
They begin by tasting a Rosé that Barry brought in, a Sancerre Rosé from the Loire Valley. Made with 100% Pinot Noir, with longer cooler growing season and chalky soils, Dan says it gets great cherry flavors and is dry without being austere.
Dan says that Rosé is the best of both worlds. You get the fruit of the grape variety and when made right, it’s got the acidity. So it has the structure to go with great food, whether creamy or austere flavors.
Rosés are coming in now from all kinds of varieties from all over the world.
They are doing renovations to the old tasting room, which had an amazing terrace view over the valley, stunning in any weather. The new room will be for seated appointment tastings only, with floor-to-ceiling windows and more comfortable furniture on the terrace.
Teresa also tells about how they also do “glamping” which is “glamor camping” or fancy tents with nice furniture.
Next they taste the 2014 Olivet Lane Russian River Valley single vineyard Chardonnay. She likes to harvest it a bit early and this is her third vintage for the winery and she is happy with it. Steve really likes it.
Next they have two Pinot Noir bottles to taste,
There is no new California Wine Country show this week due to NBA basketball on our home station KSRO in Santa Rosa, CA. Here is a repeat of our show from April 26, 2017 that you may have missed, featuring winemaker Theresa Heredia from Gary Farrell Winery.
Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger welcome Barry Herbst of Bottle Barn and this week’s special guest, Theresa Heredia, the winemaker at Gary Farrell Winery.
Theresa Heredia
Steve asks Theresa Heredia to tell how she became a winemaker. She says she grew up in Pittsburgh, California, which was not a wine producing region when she grew up. She went to Cal Poly San Luis Obispo and studied microbiology. She was accepted to grad school at UC Davis, where she discovered the wine program. She heard that they were using gas chromatography, which she was using for her research. But they were also using “olfactometry” i.e. sense of taste and smell, to identify aromatic components being separated on the instrumentation. She had been doing peptide synthesis, so wine was much more interesting.
At the time UC Davis was the only big university wine program. Today there is also Fresno St., and Cal Poly San Luis Obispo has a new program. Dan points to Santa Rosa Community College too and says the programs need more funding as the industry develops. He mentions programs at Columbia, Cornell, Purdue, Michigan State (Steve’ alma mater), U. of Texas at Austin, Mississippi St. and that there are about 30 programs in the country.
Gary Farrell was a pioneer with his 1982 Pinot Noir. Back in the ‘80s people were beginning to develop name brands and get high scoring reviews. But the pioneers were coming together to make wine from what are now iconic vineyards. He built the Gary Farrell winery in 2000, retired in 2004 and now is selling classic cars. Dan says he was tired of all the different social obligations a famous vintner has, so he left the business.
He was the handyman at Davis Bynum winery, then in 1978, Hampton Bynum gave him the opportunity to make the wine, which won a Silver Medal at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair that year, where Dan was a judge. He remembers how good it was.
Theresa tells that in 2011 they were purchased by a group called Vincraft. Bill Price is one of the owners. Steve remembers that he has been on the show before. She has been at Gary Farrell Wines for almost five years.
Dan remembers knowing Gary since before his first wine came out in 1982. He says this is a winery that respects terroir and respects acidity, which together in the same bottle makes a great wine.
Theresa Heredia is proud to work with an all-star list of great vineyards. She likes to pick on the early end of the ripeness spectrum, to get better acidity, just as Gary did.
They begin by tasting a Rosé that Barry brought in, a Sancerre Rosé from the Loire Valley. Made with 100% Pinot Noir, with longer cooler growing season and chalky soils, Dan says it gets great cherry flavors and is dry without being austere.
Dan says that Rosé is the best of both worlds. You get the fruit of the grape variety and when made right, it’s got the acidity. So it has the structure to go with great food, whether creamy or austere flavors.
Rosés are coming in now from all kinds of varieties from all over the world.
They are doing renovations to the old tasting room, which had an amazing terrace view over the valley, stunning in any weather. The new room will be for seated appointment tastings only, with floor-to-ceiling windows and more comfortable furniture on the terrace.
Teresa also tells about how they also do “glamping” which is “glamor camping” or fancy tents with nice furniture.
Next they taste the 2014 Olivet Lane Russian River Valley single vineyard Chardonnay. She likes to harvest it a bit early and this is her third vintage for the winery and she is happy with it. Steve really likes it.
Next they have two Pinot Noir bottles to taste, a 2014 Rochioli Vineyard and a 2014 Hallberg Vineyard.
Dan mentions that a Sonoma County vineyard-designated Pinot Noir of good quality should cost about $80 and if the price is lower, it is a bargain. Hearing that this Hallberg is $55, he says it is a bargain.
Theresa Heredia says they pride themselves at Gary Farrell Winery in having affordable wines and they want to make the best wine possible.
Dan says he doesn’t think people realize how much work goes into one of these vintages. He says it takes 15 years to reach that level of quality. First, you have three years before the grapes even produce a crop. Then it is another three years from the time the wine is made to the time it is on the shelf. Then if you consider that you can’t produce a high quality Pinot Noir from immature vines, now you’re adding two to four more years before the vines are even slightly mature. Then, the winemaker has to get used to the fruit and the first year is a shooting match. It’s hard to know what the proper decisions are until a few years in. Steve notices that rose petals are the essential quality of the Rochioli vineyard and Teresa agrees. They also taste berries.
Dan brought in a 1982 Napa Cabernet from William Hill winery. It wasn’t a great year and Dan was disappointed, it had been too long in the cellar.
Next they taste the Hallberg Pinot Noir. Dan says these two wines show the characteristics of their vineyards. The Rochioli is red fruity and velvety while the Hallberg has more blueberry and blackberry and cool climate characteristics. Dan thinks they both have good acid and so an oily fish like salmon would go well with it. Dan thinks the Hallberg would bear three years in the cellar.
Just at the end, Sean, a listener, calls and asks, if it takes 15 years to get high quality wine, how long can a vineyard produce, once it is established? They answer, 75 years or more, just as time is up.
Corey Beck
Corey Beck, chief winemaker for Francis Ford Coppola’s wine portfolio, is back on California Wine Country today, joining Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn. Corey grew up in Knights Valley and his grandfather was a vineyard manager for Chateau Montelena. He planted the vineyard that produced the grapes that won the Judgement of Paris. The label said Alexander Valley-Napa, even if Alexander Valley is actually in Sonoma.
Dan Berger briefly tells the story of the Judgement of Paris. Steven Spurrier ran a wine shop in Paris and decided to stage a blind tasting competition between his favorite California wines and the best French wines, with French judges. When the California wines won both the white and the red, the French establishment rebelled, but when they restaged it several years later, California won again.
Beck started with the Coppola company in 1998 as assistant winemaker. In 2006 they acquired the Sonoma property which is theirs today, complete with swimming pool. The Coppola Family portfolio other properties including Inglenook. “The good news is, we work for a creative genius,” he says.
Last Monday night was the award ceremony where Francis Ford Coppola received a lifetime achievement award from Wine Enthusiast. He said, “One of the great joys of my life is that all my family members are now on a wine label.” His Director’s Cut wines are made in Sonoma County.
Barry Herbst says that Coppola wines did very well in the SF Chronicle competition this year and they are available at Bottle Barn. Corey Beck gives credit to the growers who produce their fruit. They also have a property in Oregon now.
According to Dan Berger, Oregon is producing great Riesling, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, in addition to Pinot Noir. Dan says Gamay Noir is hot as a pistol up there, and we don’t even get any in California. The Coppolas also have a resort property in Italy. They practice and celebrate the Italian way of life, centered around the dinner table, and including good wine, in all of their locations.
They describe the wide variety of brands and labels, especially the Diamond series, a consumer-friendly price point. Dan says that Francis wanted those wines to be dry, not “soft.” Those wines were dry with structure and balance and “…the market place became a little more sophisticated because of what Francis did.”
In the mid-90s, when they launched the Diamond Series in the US, there were roughly 3000 wine wholesalers and only 1800 wineries in the US. Now, we have around 600 wholesalers (with some consolidation) and 11,000 wineries in the US. Today that makes it more difficult to get the wines “through that hourglass.” Nothing is easy, with consolidation on the wholesale side and the winery side and many alternatives to wine.
A major difference, says Dan Berger, is direct-to-consumer sales. Three years ago, 10% of the wine sold in the US was sold direct-to-consumer, and today that is 40%. That is a huge change and Dan credits Bottle Barn for having the Number One retail concept with their new business model combining the Bottle Barn store with a robust online store that offers delivery.
Corey Beck
Corey Beck, chief winemaker for Francis Ford Coppola’s wine portfolio, is back on California Wine Country today, joining Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn. Corey grew up in Knights Valley and his grandfather was a vineyard manager for Chateau Montelena. He planted the vineyard that produced the grapes that won the Judgement of Paris. The label said Alexander Valley-Napa, even if Alexander Valley is actually in Sonoma.
Dan Berger briefly tells the story of the Judgement of Paris. Steven Spurrier ran a wine shop in Paris and decided to stage a blind tasting competition between his favorite California wines and the best French wines, with French judges. When the California wines won both the white and the red, the French establishment rebelled, but when they restaged it several years later, California won again.
Beck started with the Coppola company in 1998 as assistant winemaker. In 2006 they acquired the Sonoma property which is theirs today, complete with swimming pool. The Coppola Family portfolio other properties including Inglenook. “The good news is, we work for a creative genius,” he says.
Last Monday night was the award ceremony where Francis Ford Coppola received a lifetime achievement award from Wine Enthusiast. He said, “One of the great joys of my life is that all my family members are now on a wine label.” His Director’s Cut wines are made in Sonoma County.
Barry Herbst says that Coppola wines did very well in the SF Chronicle competition this year and they are available at Bottle Barn. Corey Beck gives credit to the growers who produce their fruit. They also have a property in Oregon now.
According to Dan Berger, Oregon is producing great Riesling, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, in addition to Pinot Noir. Dan says Gamay Noir is hot as a pistol up there, and we don’t even get any in California. The Coppolas also have a resort property in Italy. They practice and celebrate the Italian way of life, centered around the dinner table, and including good wine, in all of their locations.
They describe the wide variety of brands and labels, especially the Diamond series, a consumer-friendly price point. Dan says that Francis wanted those wines to be dry, not “soft.” Those wines were dry with structure and balance and “...the market place became a little more sophisticated because of what Francis did.”
In the mid-90s, when they launched the Diamond Series in the US, there were roughly 3000 wine wholesalers and only 1800 wineries in the US. Now, we have around 600 wholesalers (with some consolidation) and 11,000 wineries in the US. Today that makes it more difficult to get the wines “through that hourglass.” Nothing is easy, with consolidation on the wholesale side and the winery side and many alternatives to wine.
A major difference, says Dan Berger, is direct-to-consumer sales. Three years ago, 10% of the wine sold in the US was sold direct-to-consumer, and today that is 40%. That is a huge change and Dan credits Bottle Barn for having the Number One retail concept with their new business model combining the Bottle Barn store with a robust online store that offers delivery.
The Inizi logo shows the roots of a vine.
John Harley is our guest this week on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. His label is called Inizi Wines and he specializes in growing and producing Italian varietals in California which are rarely found in the United States. Inizi Wines was founded by two couples, A.J. and Jen Filipelli and John and Kirsti Harley, in 2012. John and A.J. became friends when they were studying Enology and Viticulture, respectively, at Fresno State, and their wives are also partners in the company. The word “Inizi” means “beginnings” in Italian.
Their first vintage was 2012, a Charbono. It’s an Italian variety that was known for a while in the Napa Valley. It is known for its acidity, dark color and beautiful aromatics. It was known as a good blending grape in the age before the Judgement of Paris, when blends were more popular, and before Cabernet Sauvignon took over.
Next they taste a 2018 Tocai Friulano, a crisp white wine very popular in Italy. It is usually grown on steep, rocky hillsides, in Friuli, the region of north-eastern Italy.
“You can take the grape out of Italy but you can’t take the Italy out of the grape.”
After they started with Charbono, they continued to plant and produce unfamiliar wines. The four of them have jobs in other parts of the wine industry and they were surprised at how much success they have had. They have a tasting room in Guerneville.
They also make three blends, a white, red and rosé, from their Italian varieties. They make a Sagrantino, which is ultra-rare. They also make Montepulciano. Their red blend is their most popular bottling, it has Montepulciano, Dolcetto, Sangiovese, Barbera and a little Cabernet Sauvignon.
Dan Berger notices that the 2015 Charbono is dark but has low tannins. John compares it to a cool climate Syrah. John explains that they don’t own their vineyards but they work closely with the vineyard owners. They have ancient Charbono vines. There are only about 70 acres of Charbono in the US. They grow Charbono in Argentina, where it is also called Bonarda. (The name Bonarda is also known in Italy.) In Argentina, they use it for blending with their Malbecs.
Dan Berger explains that it is not easy to find these plantings of old Italian varieties in California, you have to go out and hunt for them.
John tells about his Italian grandfather who started selling grapes in New York on a small scale and eventually grew to a nationwide business and he became known as The Juice King of the US.
They also taste a Sagrantino that Dan says is so extraordinary that he would cellar it for 30 or 35 years. Sagrantino comes from the south of Italy and is one of the most tannic wines in the world. It has to be a year in the barrel and two years in the bottle, by Italian DOC standards. His friend Dick Handel has an acre and a half of this on a hill in Dry Creek. “You can take the grape out of Italy but you can’t take the Italy out of the grape.”
Dan compares it to a walk in the forest in the summertime. Sagrantino is the Barolo of the south, says Dan, quoting friend of the show Don Chigazola. John says it could be compared to a Cabernet Sauvignon. Dan suggests having it with roast lamb with garlic. There are only about 10 acres of this grape grown in the US. Dan says it is a hard fruit to work with, you have to use small quantities of fruit and make it gently. John says they had about a ton and a half. They had it in a large open topped container, they de-topped the fruit, it has about 10% whole cluster, to give it a softer structure and aromatics, and that helped kick off its native ferment with its indigenous yeast. They gently extracted the wine, a couple of punch-downs per day. The yeast produces CO2 and ethanol. The skins float to the top. That’s where the c0lor, flavors and tannins are, so you want to mix that back down into the juice, 2 or 3 times per 24 hours. This they do manually. The vines struggle on the hillside and that produces really concentrated fruit. You can’t wait too long to harvest if you are to keep the concentration of flavors.
Dan Berger commends John Harley for having not only the knowledge of Italian wines but also the technique to handle them correctly. One thing he suggests is that it be decanted the day before and held overnight, covered. “What’s there is twice the wine that was there at the beginning,” says Dan Berger.
The Inizi logo shows the roots of a vine.
John Harley is our guest this week on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. His label is called Inizi Wines and he specializes in growing and producing Italian varietals in California which are rarely found in the United States. Inizi Wines was founded by two couples, A.J. and Jen Filipelli and John and Kirsti Harley, in 2012. John and A.J. became friends when they were studying Enology and Viticulture, respectively, at Fresno State, and their wives are also partners in the company. The word "Inizi" means "beginnings" in Italian.
Their first vintage was 2012, a Charbono. It's an Italian variety that was known for a while in the Napa Valley. It is known for its acidity, dark color and beautiful aromatics. It was known as a good blending grape in the age before the Judgement of Paris, when blends were more popular, and before Cabernet Sauvignon took over.
Next they taste a 2018 Tocai Friulano, a crisp white wine very popular in Italy. It is usually grown on steep, rocky hillsides, in Friuli, the region of north-eastern Italy. "You can take the grape out of Italy but you can't take the Italy out of the grape." After they started with Charbono, they continued to plant and produce unfamiliar wines. The four of them have jobs in other parts of the wine industry and they were surprised at how much success they have had. They have a tasting room in Guerneville.
They also make three blends, a white, red and rosé, from their Italian varieties. They make a Sagrantino, which is ultra-rare. They also make Montepulciano. Their red blend is their most popular bottling, it has Montepulciano, Dolcetto, Sangiovese, Barbera and a little Cabernet Sauvignon.
Dan Berger notices that the 2015 Charbono is dark but has low tannins. John compares it to a cool climate Syrah. John explains that they don't own their vineyards but they work closely with the vineyard owners. They have ancient Charbono vines. There are only about 70 acres of Charbono in the US. They grow Charbono in Argentina, where it is also called Bonarda. (The name Bonarda is also known in Italy.) In Argentina, they use it for blending with their Malbecs.
Dan Berger explains that it is not easy to find these plantings of old Italian varieties in California, you have to go out and hunt for them.
John tells about his Italian grandfather who started selling grapes in New York on a small scale and eventually grew to a nationwide business and he became known as The Juice King of the US.
They also taste a Sagrantino that Dan says is so extraordinary that he would cellar it for 30 or 35 years. Sagrantino comes from the south of Italy and is one of the most tannic wines in the world. It has to be a year in the barrel and two years in the bottle, by Italian DOC standards. His friend Dick Handel has an acre and a half of this on a hill in Dry Creek. "You can take the grape out of Italy but you can't take the Italy out of the grape."
Dan compares it to a walk in the forest in the summertime. Sagrantino is the Barolo of the south, says Dan, quoting friend of the show Don Chigazola. John says it could be compared to a Cabernet Sauvignon. Dan suggests having it with roast lamb with garlic. There are only about 10 acres of this grape grown in the US. Dan says it is a hard fruit to work with, you have to use small quantities of fruit and make it gently. John says they had about a ton and a half. They had it in a large open topped container, they de-topped the fruit, it has about 10% whole cluster, to give it a softer structure and aromatics, and that helped kick off its native ferment with its indigenous yeast. They gently extracted the wine, a couple of punch-downs per day. The yeast produces CO2 and ethanol. The skins float to the top. That's where the c0lor, flavors and tannins are, so you want to mix that back down into the juice, 2 or 3 times per 24 hours. This they do manually.
Greg Morthole visits California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. Barry Herbst is back today too. Greg Morthole is a winemaker who first worked as a lab technician at Vinquiry in 1999. It’s an analytical lab for wine. Then he worked for Chalk Hill Winery before he joined Rodney Strong in 2005. Today he is the winemaker for Davis Bynum. He got to know wine better from the perspective of the wine lab, with his bachelor’s degree in Natural Sciences from University of Wyoming.
Greg Morthole
Dan Berger says that he is interested in what the Davis Bynum brand has been doing with Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Raspberry, strawberry aromatics and forest floor are the common flavors that come from the cooler temperatures.
There are different characters that come from different areas that make up the Russian River Valley terroir. In the 2017 Bynum Pinot Noir, there are tasting today, there are flavors coming from two areas. This wine is 30% from the Dutton Ranch in the Green Valley area, which gives it some briary, raspberry bright cherry and blueberry flavors. Another 50% comes from the Santa Rosa plain, which brings different flavors. There are riper characteristics, a more developed riper cherry into plum flavor. Dan Berger says there is also something subtle, which is a trace of loganberry. He also thinks it needs about 2 years in the cellar, or that it be decanted, if it’s to be drunk now.
Greg brought two modern Pinots and one old style. They make two different single clone Pinots and a Russian River one. The Russian River blend has come fruit from the warmer and the cooler regions. They do some other very small batches, 9 or 10 barrels at a time, which are specific to individual clones, such as the 2A clone. Greg Morthole describes how his job changed when his old boss Rick Sayre retired. He has taken everything he has learned from him and others.
Before Davis Bynum, Greg Morthole worked for Rodney Strong. He was a professional dancer who had a worldwide career. After that wound up in Sonoma County and got into wine. Dan Berger tells how he started with a tasting room in Tiburon, where he eventually got more involved in the winemaking and he eventually decided to move from Tiburon to Sonoma County. He was one of the first to plant Chardonnay in the mid-60s. He knew France from having been there as a dancer, and went back to learn about Chardonnay. That's where he learned the importance of acidity in Chardonnay.
Greg Morthole visits California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. Barry Herbst is back today too. Greg Morthole is a winemaker who first worked as a lab technician at Vinquiry in 1999. It’s an analytical lab for wine. Then he worked for Chalk Hill Winery before he joined Rodney Strong in 2005. Today he is the winemaker for Davis Bynum. He got to know wine better from the perspective of the wine lab, with his bachelor’s degree in Natural Sciences from University of Wyoming.
Greg Morthole
Dan Berger says that he is interested in what the Davis Bynum brand has been doing with Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Raspberry, strawberry aromatics and forest floor are the common flavors that come from the cooler temperatures.
There are different characters that come from different areas that make up the Russian River Valley terroir. In the 2017 Bynum Pinot Noir, there are tasting today, there are flavors coming from two areas. This wine is 30% from the Dutton Ranch in the Green Valley area, which gives it some briary, raspberry bright cherry and blueberry flavors. Another 50% comes from the Santa Rosa plain, which brings different flavors. There are riper characteristics, a more developed riper cherry into plum flavor. Dan Berger says there is also something subtle, which is a trace of loganberry. He also thinks it needs about 2 years in the cellar, or that it be decanted, if it’s to be drunk now.
Greg brought two modern Pinots and one old style. They make two different single clone Pinots and a Russian River one. The Russian River blend has come fruit from the warmer and the cooler regions. They do some other very small batches, 9 or 10 barrels at a time, which are specific to individual clones, such as the 2A clone. Greg Morthole describes how his job changed when his old boss Rick Sayre retired. He has taken everything he has learned from him and others.
Before Davis Bynum, Greg Morthole worked for Rodney Strong. He was a professional dancer who had a worldwide career. After that wound up in Sonoma County and got into wine. Dan Berger tells how he started with a tasting room in Tiburon, where he eventually got more involved in the winemaking and he eventually decided to move from Tiburon to Sonoma County. He was one of the first to plant Chardonnay in the mid-60s. He knew France from having been there as a dancer, and went back to learn about Chardonnay. That’s where he learned the importance of acidity in Chardonnay.
Alan Baker from Cartograph Wines joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on the first California Wine Country show of 2020. He was last on this show in December of 2018.
Alan Baker and Serena Lourie
Alan Baker was a Music Major in college and worked with music in public radio for 15 years before he got into wine. “It was a Riesling that got me hooked,” he says, as he tells the story. In 2005 he moved to Healdsburg. “I got bit by the bug.” He loved it so much that it was time to get into the business. He made wines at Crushpad in San Francisco, then he got hired to work there. He did also take some classes at UC Davis. 2009 was the first Cartograph vintage. They make about 2000 cases per year.
The Cartograph label is a circle with five points, which show where he and his wife discovered wine, separately at first and then together. His tasting room is downtown Healdsburg next to Vallette restaurant (whose owners are also Steve’s friends.)
Healdsburg has a fun weekend January 24-26, the Healdsburg Tastemaker Weekend. It is a promotion for the community but also a time of year when chefs are not quite as busy as usual so they are able to book special events with chefs and winemakers. There are also cooking classes with Cousteau Bakery. Go to stayhealdsburg.com to find the Tastemaker Weekend link.
They are tasting a 2016 Riesling that Dan says is “just about ready,” now. Dan likes to keep Rieslings at five years, which is when they expand. Dan says it’s a year shy of when he would drink it. It is in its prime right now. It has good acidity and has very little sugar.
Dan Berger tells about how difficult it is to start small and go commercial and have it be profitable. Alan says it comes out as an expensive hobby and a labor of love, still, while it develops.
This year for the first time they are doing two Rieslings. The got some from Willamette Valley in Oregon and some other Riesling grapes from Marin County. They picked late, October 25, at 20.1 Brix, not very ripe. Dan says that sweetness sells Rieslings but Alan is “a dry freak” who makes a Dry Riesling and then has to wait for it.
Also in the studio today is Glenn Dennler, also a winemaker. For the rest of the episode they taste and discuss wines from both of today’s guests.
Alan Baker from Cartograph Wines joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on the first California Wine Country show of 2020. He was last on this show in December of 2018.
Alan Baker and Serena Lourie
Alan Baker was a Music Major in college and worked with music in public radio for 15 years before he got into wine. “It was a Riesling that got me hooked,” he says, as he tells the story. In 2005 he moved to Healdsburg. “I got bit by the bug.” He loved it so much that it was time to get into the business. He made wines at Crushpad in San Francisco, then he got hired to work there. He did also take some classes at UC Davis. 2009 was the first Cartograph vintage. They make about 2000 cases per year.
The Cartograph label is a circle with five points, which show where he and his wife discovered wine, separately at first and then together. His tasting room is downtown Healdsburg next to Vallette restaurant (whose owners are also Steve’s friends.)
Healdsburg has a fun weekend January 24-26, the Healdsburg Tastemaker Weekend. It is a promotion for the community but also a time of year when chefs are not quite as busy as usual so they are able to book special events with chefs and winemakers. There are also cooking classes with Cousteau Bakery. Go to stayhealdsburg.com to find the Tastemaker Weekend link.
They are tasting a 2016 Riesling that Dan says is “just about ready,” now. Dan likes to keep Rieslings at five years, which is when they expand. Dan says it’s a year shy of when he would drink it. It is in its prime right now. It has good acidity and has very little sugar.
Dan Berger tells about how difficult it is to start small and go commercial and have it be profitable. Alan says it comes out as an expensive hobby and a labor of love, still, while it develops.
This year for the first time they are doing two Rieslings. The got some from Willamette Valley in Oregon and some other Riesling grapes from Marin County. They picked late, October 25, at 20.1 Brix, not very ripe. Dan says that sweetness sells Rieslings but Alan is “a dry freak” who makes a Dry Riesling and then has to wait for it.
Also in the studio today is Glenn Dennler, also a winemaker. For the rest of the episode they taste and discuss wines from both of today’s guests.
Tom Simoneau joins Steve Jaxon this week with his 2019 Wines of the Year and to interview Nicole Hitchcock, winemaker at J Vineyards and Tom’s 2019 Winery of the Year. Today’s show notes are by Tom Simoneau.
Winery of the Year: J Vineyards & Winery Nicole Hitchcock, winemaker at J Vineyards, Tom Simoneau’s 2019 Winery of the Year.
With the J Cuvée 20 being my sparkling wine of the year, I’m here to tell you that’s just a small part of what is happening at J. Since it was purchased by E & J Gallo Winery in 2015, the brand continues to flourish under the new ownership. Winemaker Nicole Hitchcock oversees a portfolio that includes 1 Pinot Gris, 1 Vin Gris, 6 Chardonnays, 10 Pinot Noirs, and 8 Sparklers. I was the lucky guy who got to taste most of them last month. The tasting room is a must stop as they have an in-house chef to pair these stunning wines with some very creative small plates. Congratulations to J Vineyards & Winery as my 2019 Winery of the Year. jwine.com
Best Whites Sparkling Wine: J Vineyard & Winery Cuvée 20, Nonvintage, Russian River Valley, $38. Initially introduced to commemorate their 20th Anniversary. Cuvée 20 today represents the workhorse of the J Sparkling wine portfolio. jwine.com
Chardonnay: Sonoma Cutrer Vineyards 2017 Sonoma Coast Les Pierres, Estate Grown, $42. Long known for producing some of Sonoma County’s finest Chardonnay. Winemaker Mick Schroeter continues that tradition. sonomacutrer.com
Sauvignon Blanc: Dry Creek Vineyard 2018 Dry Creek Valley, $20. With classic Dry Creek Sauvignon Blanc flavors this 100% Sauvignon Blanc was fermented in 84% stainless steel with 16% barrel fermented in neutral Acacia, French, and Chestnut barrels. Congrats to winemaker Tim Bell. drycreekvineyard.com
Off Dry White: Mill Creek Vineyard & Winery 2018 Gewurztraminer, Dry Creek Valley, Estate, $27. To say Mill Creek is a family affair is an understatement. Bill and Yvonne Kreck are the hands on owners and grape growers while son Jeremy handles the winemaking. millcreekwinery.com
Alternative White: Gordian Knot Winery 2018 Albarino, Russian River Valley, Elieo Vineyard, $28. Unfortunately this will be the last vintage from Gordian Knot, due to the untimely death of co-owner and winemaker Tim Meinken. If you’ve never tried Albarino, think of it this way… if a Sauvignon Blanc wanted to be a Riesling it would be an Albarino. gordianknotwinery.com
Best Value White: Kim Crawford 2018 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, $18. Often discounted, this is a can’t miss dry white that falls right in the middle of grapefruit, grass, and gooseberry. Crisp, clean, and I’ve seen this wine as low as $10. kimcrawfordwines.com
Most Fun Wine: Sterling Vineyards has released a trio of wines in recyclable aluminum bottles. The 375ml Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Rosé are real wines full of varietal character. They are perfect when glass bottles, cork pullers, and glasses are not appropriate. $7.99 for 375ml. sterlingvineyards.com
Sweet Wine: Simi Winery 2018 Late Harvest Riesling, Alexander Valley, 375ml, $35. When you talk to winemakers this is probably the most difficult and expensive wine to make. This Simi is the best I’ve had in years. Dessert in a glass. simiwinery.com
Luxury Wine: Maritana 2017 Chardonnay, Dutton Hanson Hill, Russian River Valley, $90. This is the new project from Donald Patz of Patz and Hall fame. This 1.8 acre parcel farmed by the Dutton family is vinified using only 27% new French Oak to focus on the fruit and minerality of the site. That’s what Donald Patz has been doing since he sold his winery. donaldpatzwinegroup.com
Rosé: Alexander Valley Vineyards 2018 Dry Rosé of Sangiovese, Alexander Valley, $16. This wine was born to be a Rosé. Picked at a lower sugar to finish dry at 13% alcohol. Fruit forward and as versatile for a food pairing as there is. avvwine.com
Best Reds: Cabernet Sauvignon: Duckhorn Vineyards 2016 Rutherford, Napa Valley, $100. Duckhorn may have made its reputation with Merlot, but those of us in the know have always had our eyes on their Cabernet releases. So now the secret is out. With several Appellation designated Cabs you can have a tasting tour of Napa Valley. This Rutherford Cab is a classic. Andre Tchelistcheff coined the phrase Rutherford dust, but I’ve never completely agreed. You can’t taste dirt. But with this wine, I see his point and you will too with one taste. Limited production. duckhorn.com
Zinfandel: Soda Rock Winery 2017 Postmaster Reserve, Sonoma County, $42. Unfortunately the big story here is the Kincade Fire which burned Soda Rock Winery to the ground. But you can’t keep owners Ken and Diane Wilson down. The winery will be rebuilt and they are opening a Soda Rock Tasting Room in downtown Healdsburg. In the meantime open up a bottle of this Postmaster Zin and toast Sonoma Strong. sodarockwinery.com
Merlot: Paradise Ridge 2014 Russian River Valley, $38. The winery was destroyed in the 2017 Tubs Fire and has just reopened. The view from the deck is great and so are their wines. A stop at Paradise Ridge in Santa Rosa is highly recommended. prwinery.com
Syrah: Shone Farm Winery 2017 Russian River Valley, $18. The Santa Rosa Junior College Shone Farm Winery was established in 2008 by visionary educators and Sonoma County wine industry luminaries. It is still one of only 3 bonded wineries operating in the California Community College System. shonefarm.santarosa.edu/winery
Blended Red: Benziger Family Winery 2016 Tribute, Sonoma Valley Estate, $85.This wine is a prime example of why red blends are so popular. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Malbec, 11% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Made with Demeter Certified Biodynamic Grapes. benziger.com
Best Buy Red: Lohr Winery 2017 Merlot Los Osos, Paso Robles, $15. Year in and year out the J. Lohr wines deliver some of the best values at all price points. This Merlot, which is blended with 16% Malbec, drinks like a wine at $25 a bottle. Congratulations to Steve Peck and his winemaking team. jlohr.com
Alternative Red: Kelley & Young 2016 Malbec, Alexander Valley, Robert Young Vineyards, $45. People have said you’ll find the best Malbecs from Argentina, but I say go taste this Kelley & Young. Husband and wife team, Kathleen Kelley and Jim Young have created quite a business with their wine brand and Tasting Lounge, as well as The Wine Garden Inn in Cloverdale. kelleyyoungwines.com
Pinot Noir: Siduri 2016 Saralee’s Vineyard, Russian River Valley, $50. From long time Pinot Noir super star winemaker, Adam Lee, this Pinot comes from the Expansion Block at Saralee’s where every other row is planted to a different clone. Do not miss this Pinot Noir. siduri.com
Book of the Year Wine and War: The French, the Nazis and the Battle for France’s Greatest Treasure, by Don & Petie Kladstrup. If you enjoy wine and history, this book is for you. It’s not about the battles; it’s about the wineries and vineyards and what went on in France during the war years. It’s an eye opener.
Tom Simoneau joins Steve Jaxon this week with his 2019 Wines of the Year and to interview Nicole Hitchcock, winemaker at J Vineyards and Tom’s 2019 Winery of the Year. Today’s show notes are by Tom Simoneau.
Winery of the Year: J Vineyards & Winery Nicole Hitchcock, winemaker at J Vineyards, Tom Simoneau’s 2019 Winery of the Year.
With the J Cuvée 20 being my sparkling wine of the year, I’m here to tell you that’s just a small part of what is happening at J. Since it was purchased by E & J Gallo Winery in 2015, the brand continues to flourish under the new ownership. Winemaker Nicole Hitchcock oversees a portfolio that includes 1 Pinot Gris, 1 Vin Gris, 6 Chardonnays, 10 Pinot Noirs, and 8 Sparklers. I was the lucky guy who got to taste most of them last month. The tasting room is a must stop as they have an in-house chef to pair these stunning wines with some very creative small plates. Congratulations to J Vineyards & Winery as my 2019 Winery of the Year. jwine.com
Best Whites Sparkling Wine: J Vineyard & Winery Cuvée 20, Nonvintage, Russian River Valley, $38. Initially introduced to commemorate their 20th Anniversary. Cuvée 20 today represents the workhorse of the J Sparkling wine portfolio. jwine.com
Chardonnay: Sonoma Cutrer Vineyards 2017 Sonoma Coast Les Pierres, Estate Grown, $42. Long known for producing some of Sonoma County’s finest Chardonnay. Winemaker Mick Schroeter continues that tradition. sonomacutrer.com
Sauvignon Blanc: Dry Creek Vineyard 2018 Dry Creek Valley, $20. With classic Dry Creek Sauvignon Blanc flavors this 100% Sauvignon Blanc was fermented in 84% stainless steel with 16% barrel fermented in neutral Acacia, French, and Chestnut barrels. Congrats to winemaker Tim Bell. drycreekvineyard.com
Off Dry White: Mill Creek Vineyard & Winery 2018 Gewurztraminer, Dry Creek Valley, Estate, $27. To say Mill Creek is a family affair is an understatement. Bill and Yvonne Kreck are the hands on owners and grape growers while son Jeremy handles the winemaking. millcreekwinery.com
Alternative White: Gordian Knot Winery 2018 Albarino, Russian River Valley, Elieo Vineyard, $28. Unfortunately this will be the last vintage from Gordian Knot, due to the untimely death of co-owner and winemaker Tim Meinken. If you’ve never tried Albarino, think of it this way… if a Sauvignon Blanc wanted to be a Riesling it would be an Albarino. gordianknotwinery.com
Best Value White: Kim Crawford 2018 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, $18. Often discounted, this is a can’t miss dry white that falls right in the middle of grapefruit, grass, and gooseberry. Crisp, clean, and I’ve seen this wine as low as $10. kimcrawfordwines.com
Most Fun Wine: Sterling Vineyards has released a trio of wines in recyclable aluminum bottles. The 375ml Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Rosé are real wines full of varietal character. They are perfect when glass bottles, cork pullers, and glasses are not appropriate. $7.99 for 375ml. sterlingvineyards.com
Sweet Wine: Simi Winery 2018 Late Harvest Riesling, Alexander Valley, 375ml, $35. When you talk to winemakers this is probably the most difficult and expensive wine to make. This Simi is the best I’ve had in years. Dessert in a glass. simiwinery.com
Luxury Wine: Maritana 2017 Chardonnay, Dutton Hanson Hill, Russian River Valley, $90. This is the new project from Donald Patz of Patz and Hall fame. This 1.8 acre parcel farmed by the Dutton family is vinified using only 27% new French Oak to focus on the fruit and minerality of the site. That’s what Donald Patz has been doing since he sold his winery. donaldpatzwinegroup.com
Rosé: Alexander Valley Vineyards 2018 Dry Rosé of Sangiovese, Alexander Valley, $16. This wine was born to be a Rosé. Picked at a lower sugar to finish dry at 13% alcohol. Fruit forward and as versatile for a food pairing as there is. avvwine.com
Best Reds: Cabernet Sauvignon: Duckhorn Vineyards 2016 Rutherford, Napa Valley, $100. Duckhorn may have made its reputation with Merlot, but those of us in the know have always had our eyes on their Cabernet releases. So now the secret is out. With several Appellation designated Cabs you can have a tasting tour of Napa Valley. This Rutherford Cab is a classic. Andre Tchelistcheff coined the phrase Rutherford dust, but I’ve never completely agreed. You can’t taste dirt. But with this wine, I see his point and you will too with one taste. Limited production. duckhorn.com
Zinfandel: Soda Rock Winery 2017 Postmaster Reserve, Sonoma County, $42. Unfortunately the big story here is the Kincade Fire which burned Soda Rock Winery to the ground. But you can’t keep owners Ken and Diane Wilson down. The winery will be rebuilt and they are opening a Soda Rock Tasting Room in downtown Healdsburg. In the meantime open up a bottle of this Postmaster Zin and toast Sonoma Strong. sodarockwinery.com
Merlot: Paradise Ridge 2014 Russian River Valley, $38. The winery was destroyed in the 2017 Tubs Fire and has just reopened. The view from the deck is great and so are their wines. A stop at Paradise Ridge in Santa Rosa is highly recommended. prwinery.com
Syrah: Shone Farm Winery 2017 Russian River Valley, $18. The Santa Rosa Junior College Shone Farm Winery was established in 2008 by visionary educators and Sonoma County wine industry luminaries. It is still one of only 3 bonded wineries operating in the California Community College System. shonefarm.santarosa.edu/winery
Blended Red: Benziger Family Winery 2016 Tribute, Sonoma Valley Estate, $85.This wine is a prime example of why red blends are so popular. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Malbec, 11% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Made with Demeter Certified Biodynamic Grapes. benziger.com
Best Buy Red: Lohr Winery 2017 Merlot Los Osos, Paso Robles, $15. Year in and year out the J. Lohr wines deliver some of the best values at all price points. This Merlot, which is blended with 16% Malbec, drinks like a wine at $25 a bottle. Congratulations to Steve Peck and his winemaking team. jlohr.com
Alternative Red: Kelley & Young 2016 Malbec, Alexander Valley, Robert Young Vineyards, $45. People have said you’ll find the best Malbecs from Argentina, but I say go taste this Kelley & Young. Husband and wife team, Kathleen Kelley and Jim Young have created quite a business with their wine brand and Tasting Lounge, as well as The Wine Garden Inn in Cloverdale. kelleyyoungwines.com
Pinot Noir: Siduri 2016 Saralee’s Vineyard, Russian River Valley, $50. From long time Pinot Noir super star winemaker, Adam Lee, this Pinot comes from the Expansion Block at Saralee’s where every other row is planted to a different clone. Do not miss this Pinot Noir. siduri.com
Book of the Year Wine and War: The French, the Nazis and the Battle for France’s Greatest Treasure, by Don & Petie Kladstrup. If you enjoy wine and history, this book is for you. It’s not about the battles; it’s about the wineries and vineyards and what went on in France during the war years. It’s an eye opener.
For this week’s California Wine Country podcast here is a repeat of our interview with Byron Kosuge from February 7, 2018. (Due to a live NBA game on home station KSRO in Santa Rosa, there is no new show this week.)
Byron Kosuge, winemaker, is today’s guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Byron Kosuge is the winemaker at his own label, B Kosuge Wines, in addition to having been the winemaker at Saintsbury and many other labels.
Today’s Tastings from B Kosuge Wines:
2016 Gamay Noir, Carneros
2015 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast
2015 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, The Habitat
Byron Kosuge (photo from bkosugewines.com)
Today’s guest is Byron Kosuge who has been making wine for 30 years, but a lot of it was under the radar. He was with Saitsbury in Carneros, Napa Valley, but he didn’t get a lot of publicity. Byron says he liked being behind the scenes. He got into wine to make it, not sell it or represent it. He grew up in Davis and his dad was a professor there, though not in wine. He started as an English major but had an aptitude for chemistry and entered the wine program.
He makes his wine in Sebastopol, but does have one Carneros vineyard he works with. Dan points out that B Kosuge wines is a small brand and he makes small quantities. Typically small quantity producers charge a lot but he does not. He says it was important to him for his prices to seem fair on “the global stage.” His wines are available on his website and he has been sold at retail in Bottle Barn sometimes, when there is supply, since he makes so little of it.
Dan says of the Chardonnay that they are tasting, that it is delicate, fragrant, citrussy, blossomy. It’s not a sipping wine, it’s for having with food so its beautiful structure will work within that context.
About 2/3s of it is done in oak and some in a concrete egg, which Steve and Dan insist he explain. It’s a little tank, shaped like an egg. His interest in it is for properties associated with the egg shape, but he wanted it in concrete and not stainless steel. He wanted to ferment and age in the same tank, which he can’t do in stainless steel. He says the wine gets a little bit of oxygen so it develops more quickly as it would in stainless steel. The end result is a portion of the wine that is quite fresh and perfumed and bright, and another part that is rich, which has more oak, typical California Chardonnay, and they get put together. Steve says the result is very subtle. Dan says you start to salivate as soon as you taste it, “…it entices you with its little nuances.”
Byron Kosuge was the winemaker at Saintsbury. Dan notes that they never made ostentatious wines and he asks Byron Kosuge whether their style was already set when he started working there. He says the style was established since 1981 when he started in 1985. The founders were Burgundy lovers and that was their inspiration and their standard. They make Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, almost exclusively.
Byron Kosuge tells how he thinks many young winemakers come out of school with a good idea of the way they want to make wine; he had no idea at that stage, he just wanted a job. He feels that he was lucky to be in the right place at the right time.
Dan suggests that this Chardonnay is an all-purpose wine and it will be even better in three or four years. Byron Kosuge says he does not necessarily set out to make a long-lived wine, but rather for it to be balanced, complete and refreshing. He thinks it’s a by-product of making wine that way, that it will also age well.
Dan thinks the bottle is worthy of a $55 or $60 price, even if it sells for $35.
Next they taste a Gamay, which is typically used to make Gamay Beaujolais or Beaujolais Nouveau. That trivializes the variety, but this is Gamay Noir as it should be: serious, top drawer stuff. You don’t have to age it very much and it goes with everything. It can be chilled or served at room temperature.
Byron Kosuge does not have a tasting room, since he is a one man show, it would be hard for him to manage. He only makes about 1000 cases, which is his intention. “It’s human sized, one human, me,” he says. He doesn’t want to take on investors and grow, because it is his labor of love.
For this week’s California Wine Country podcast here is a repeat of our interview with Byron Kosuge from February 7, 2018. (Due to a live NBA game on home station KSRO in Santa Rosa, there is no new show this week.)
Byron Kosuge, winemaker, is today’s guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Byron Kosuge is the winemaker at his own label, B Kosuge Wines, in addition to having been the winemaker at Saintsbury and many other labels.
Today’s Tastings from B Kosuge Wines:
2016 Gamay Noir, Carneros
2015 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast
2015 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, The Habitat
Byron Kosuge (photo from bkosugewines.com)
Today’s guest is Byron Kosuge who has been making wine for 30 years, but a lot of it was under the radar. He was with Saitsbury in Carneros, Napa Valley, but he didn’t get a lot of publicity. Byron says he liked being behind the scenes. He got into wine to make it, not sell it or represent it. He grew up in Davis and his dad was a professor there, though not in wine. He started as an English major but had an aptitude for chemistry and entered the wine program.
He makes his wine in Sebastopol, but does have one Carneros vineyard he works with. Dan points out that B Kosuge wines is a small brand and he makes small quantities. Typically small quantity producers charge a lot but he does not. He says it was important to him for his prices to seem fair on “the global stage.” His wines are available on his website and he has been sold at retail in Bottle Barn sometimes, when there is supply, since he makes so little of it.
Dan says of the Chardonnay that they are tasting, that it is delicate, fragrant, citrussy, blossomy. It’s not a sipping wine, it’s for having with food so its beautiful structure will work within that context.
About 2/3s of it is done in oak and some in a concrete egg, which Steve and Dan insist he explain. It’s a little tank, shaped like an egg. His interest in it is for properties associated with the egg shape, but he wanted it in concrete and not stainless steel. He wanted to ferment and age in the same tank, which he can’t do in stainless steel. He says the wine gets a little bit of oxygen so it develops more quickly as it would in stainless steel. The end result is a portion of the wine that is quite fresh and perfumed and bright, and another part that is rich, which has more oak, typical California Chardonnay, and they get put together. Steve says the result is very subtle. Dan says you start to salivate as soon as you taste it, “…it entices you with its little nuances.”
Byron Kosuge was the winemaker at Saintsbury. Dan notes that they never made ostentatious wines and he asks Byron Kosuge whether their style was already set when he started working there. He says the style was established since 1981 when he started in 1985. The founders were Burgundy lovers and that was their inspiration and their standard. They make Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, almost exclusively.
Byron Kosuge tells how he thinks many young winemakers come out of school with a good idea of the way they want to make wine; he had no idea at that stage, he just wanted a job. He feels that he was lucky to be in the right place at the right time.
Dan suggests that this Chardonnay is an all-purpose wine and it will be even better in three or four years. Byron Kosuge says he does not necessarily set out to make a long-lived wine, but rather for it to be balanced, complete and refreshing. He thinks it’s a by-product of making wine that way, that it will also age well.
Dan thinks the bottle is worthy of a $55 or $60 price, even if it sells for $35.
Next they taste a Gamay, which is typically used to make Gamay Beaujolais or Beaujolais Nouveau. That trivializes the variety, but this is Gamay Noir as it should be: serious, top drawer stuff. You don’t have to age it very much and it goes with everything. It can be chilled or served at room temperature.
Byron Kosuge does not have a tasting room, since he is a one man show, it would be hard for him to manage. He only makes about 1000 cases, which is his intention. “It’s human sized, one human, me,” he says. He doesn’t want to take on investors and grow, because it is his labor of love.
Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn joins Steve Jaxon today on California Wine Country. Dan Berger is away this week. Jason Schneider, spirits manager at Bottle Barn, is also in. Our guests are Michelle Rahm and Annie Barber from Coffey Strong and also Guy Davis from Davis Family Vineyards.
Coffey Strong is an organization of people in Coffey Park, in Sonoma County, dedicated to helping others to recover from this year’s fires. To raise money for public projects, they have bottled a special red wine called the Barn Raiser. Guy Davis from Davis Family Wines is in. He make the red blend, 75% Zin, 15% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. They have sold over 100 cases. After they finish this run they will bottle another one early next year.
Guy Davis tells about Davis Family Wines. Their family lives on their vineyard property and he and his two sons do everything “from vine to bottle.” He is proud of that and even prouder that some of their work can benefit others.
They are located on Front Street in Healdsburg, in front of the Russian River, as you cross the Memorial Bridge coming into town. They have a bocce court with a view of the river and a big organic garden.
The 2017 Red blend Barn Raiser is available at Bottle Barn. It sells for $14.99. The intent was really to be a community wine to benefit the community and they did it with help from a lot of local friends including Guy Fieri who contributed some high-elevation Zinfandel grapes at cost. Its tag line is “A community wine supported by the wine community.
They also taste a Chardonnay that Barry Herbst says has been the number one seller from Harvest Fair. It won best of class for the under-$20 category, selling for $10.
Davis Family Wines makes about a dozen wines. They grow 4 varieties on their property. They make about 6000 cases total. Guy Davis worked in a French restaurant while a college student, which is where he learned about food and wine. His original degree was in economics. He started a small company that sold wine from small producers to direct to consumers. Then he took courses in viticulture and enology at UC Davis.
Asked what spirits are hot at Bottle Barn this season, Jason says that bourbon is hot and so are spirits from local distillers like Redwood Empire, Lost Republic and Sonoma Distilling.
Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn joins Steve Jaxon today on California Wine Country. Dan Berger is away this week. Jason Schneider, spirits manager at Bottle Barn, is also in. Our guests are Michelle Rahm and Annie Barber from Coffey Strong and also Guy Davis from Davis Family Vineyards.
Coffey Strong is an organization of people in Coffey Park, in Sonoma County, dedicated to helping others to recover from this year’s fires. To raise money for public projects, they have bottled a special red wine called the Barn Raiser. Guy Davis from Davis Family Wines is in. He make the red blend, 75% Zin, 15% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. They have sold over 100 cases. After they finish this run they will bottle another one early next year.
Guy Davis tells about Davis Family Wines. Their family lives on their vineyard property and he and his two sons do everything “from vine to bottle.” He is proud of that and even prouder that some of their work can benefit others.
They are located on Front Street in Healdsburg, in front of the Russian River, as you cross the Memorial Bridge coming into town. They have a bocce court with a view of the river and a big organic garden.
The 2017 Red blend Barn Raiser is available at Bottle Barn. It sells for $14.99. The intent was really to be a community wine to benefit the community and they did it with help from a lot of local friends including Guy Fieri who contributed some high-elevation Zinfandel grapes at cost. Its tag line is “A community wine supported by the wine community.
They also taste a Chardonnay that Barry Herbst says has been the number one seller from Harvest Fair. It won best of class for the under-$20 category, selling for $10.
Davis Family Wines makes about a dozen wines. They grow 4 varieties on their property. They make about 6000 cases total. Guy Davis worked in a French restaurant while a college student, which is where he learned about food and wine. His original degree was in economics. He started a small company that sold wine from small producers to direct to consumers. Then he took courses in viticulture and enology at UC Davis.
Asked what spirits are hot at Bottle Barn this season, Jason says that bourbon is hot and so are spirits from local distillers like Redwood Empire, Lost Republic and Sonoma Distilling.
Bruce Cohn visits with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today on California Wine Country. He used to own the B.R. Cohn label, which he sold in 2015. Now he owns Trestle Glen Vineyards, which is a relatively small operation, having one acre of Zinfandel and seven acres of Cabernet Sauvignon on the 21 acre property.
Bruce Cohn was a business manager for several popular bands in the music business. In 1974, he bought a vineyard in southern Sonoma County and had success growing grapes. Later he founded B.R. Cohn to make wine and had great success with that brand. Since he was in the music industry, B.R. Cohn used to have concerts at the winery but the new owners are affiliated with the Bottlerock people so they will continue to produce concerts there. Meanwhile, Bruce still has many friends in music so he will be organizing some music at his own winery, in the future. Dan Berger has brought a Viogner today, which a lot of people are talking about these days. It is floral and rich in the mid-palette but not sweet. It is a 2018 Rustle Viogner from Prayer Rock Vineyards, which is not far from Roseburg, Oregon. Dan thinks this is one of the best Viogners in the US.
Trestle Glen is located in a hot region, they ripen about 2 weeks before other local cooler regions. He does not make white wine, but he can’t grow white on his property because it is too hot. He had to pull his Pinot Noir vines out too, because it’s too hot. As they taste the Trestle Glen Creekside Cabernet, Dan describes it as very drinkable and fruit forward with soft tannins.
Tom Montgomery was his winemaker for B.R. Cohn and now also for Trestle Glen. Tom was a Fresno State graduate and he’s teaching there now. He was there when he planted Trestle Glen and he’s the only one who has ever made wine from this vineyard.
When he bought the property, it had 7 acres of Pinot and 7 acres of Cab planted. He read viticulture books and he saw that he needed help. Charlie Wagner of Caymus became his mentor. He grew grapes and sold to many local wineries. When he sold B.R. Cohn it was producing 85,000 cases a year, selling in 46 states.
As they taste this Cabernet, Dan Berger tells about how there are two kinds of Cabernet now, which are Napa Valley and everywhere else. In Napa the Cabernet is made like nowhere else, because of their unique climate and land. Sonoma County has always made good Cab but without such recognition as Napa. Today Sonoma County gets all the Pinot Noir. Alexander Valley is the largest Cab producer in Sonoma Co. Dry Creek is also great but also without recognition. Chalk Hill is also great, as is Sonoma Valley. Sonoma Coast is too cool. It comes down to which style makes the most impact in the market place and that is Alexander Valley. It is a broader, richer, more supple style. Sonoma Valley is more structured. Dan says it is unfortunate that the Sonoma County subregions are not as well known as they deserve to be. Bruce’s vines get heat from the warm aquifer.
As for now, he makes these two Cabs, Creekside and Hillside, but with 2019 he will start bottling a Zinfandel as well.
Dan Berger restates that the subregions in Sonoma Valley deserve more individual recognition for their subtle differences with various varieties. For example, up on Sonoma Mountain, there are some properties that still grow Pinot Noir there because the cool winds coming in from the Petaluma Gap cool it just enough for Pinot Noir to thrive.
Bruce Cohn visits with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today on California Wine Country. He used to own the B.R. Cohn label, which he sold in 2015. Now he owns Trestle Glen Vineyards, which is a relatively small operation, having one acre of Zinfandel and seven acres of Cabernet Sauvignon on the 21 acre property.
Bruce Cohn was a business manager for several popular bands in the music business. In 1974, he bought a vineyard in southern Sonoma County and had success growing grapes. Later he founded B.R. Cohn to make wine and had great success with that brand. Since he was in the music industry, B.R. Cohn used to have concerts at the winery but the new owners are affiliated with the Bottlerock people so they will continue to produce concerts there. Meanwhile, Bruce still has many friends in music so he will be organizing some music at his own winery, in the future. Dan Berger has brought a Viogner today, which a lot of people are talking about these days. It is floral and rich in the mid-palette but not sweet. It is a 2018 Rustle Viogner from Prayer Rock Vineyards, which is not far from Roseburg, Oregon. Dan thinks this is one of the best Viogners in the US.
Trestle Glen is located in a hot region, they ripen about 2 weeks before other local cooler regions. He does not make white wine, but he can’t grow white on his property because it is too hot. He had to pull his Pinot Noir vines out too, because it’s too hot. As they taste the Trestle Glen Creekside Cabernet, Dan describes it as very drinkable and fruit forward with soft tannins.
Tom Montgomery was his winemaker for B.R. Cohn and now also for Trestle Glen. Tom was a Fresno State graduate and he’s teaching there now. He was there when he planted Trestle Glen and he’s the only one who has ever made wine from this vineyard.
When he bought the property, it had 7 acres of Pinot and 7 acres of Cab planted. He read viticulture books and he saw that he needed help. Charlie Wagner of Caymus became his mentor. He grew grapes and sold to many local wineries. When he sold B.R. Cohn it was producing 85,000 cases a year, selling in 46 states.
As they taste this Cabernet, Dan Berger tells about how there are two kinds of Cabernet now, which are Napa Valley and everywhere else. In Napa the Cabernet is made like nowhere else, because of their unique climate and land. Sonoma County has always made good Cab but without such recognition as Napa. Today Sonoma County gets all the Pinot Noir. Alexander Valley is the largest Cab producer in Sonoma Co. Dry Creek is also great but also without recognition. Chalk Hill is also great, as is Sonoma Valley. Sonoma Coast is too cool. It comes down to which style makes the most impact in the market place and that is Alexander Valley. It is a broader, richer, more supple style. Sonoma Valley is more structured. Dan says it is unfortunate that the Sonoma County subregions are not as well known as they deserve to be. Bruce’s vines get heat from the warm aquifer.
As for now, he makes these two Cabs, Creekside and Hillside, but with 2019 he will start bottling a Zinfandel as well.
Dan Berger restates that the subregions in Sonoma Valley deserve more individual recognition for their subtle differences with various varieties. For example, up on Sonoma Mountain, there are some properties that still grow Pinot Noir there because the cool winds coming in from the Petaluma Gap cool it just enough for Pinot Noir to thrive.
This episode of California Wine Country was originally recorded and published on Dec. 20, 2017. Carol Shelton was last on this show in February of this year.
There is no new episode recorded today, Nov. 6, 2019, as we recover from the aftermath of this year’s fires in Sonoma County. Please consider making a donation to the Red Cross, which has done so much for Sonoma County again this year to help the community in its time of greatest need.
Carol Shelton joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. For more information visit her website https://www.carolshelton.com/
Carol Shelton
Dan Berger met Carol Shelton when she was making wines for Windsor Vineyards. They were winning gold medals in a lot of competitions but they were not widely known because they were not readily available at retail. So Dan wrote about how she was taking good fruit and making great wine. She explains how she spent 20 great years at Windsor after graduating with her degree in enology, until 2000 when she founded her own winery. Her Wild Thing wine is one of Steve Jaxon’s favorite wines.
She and her husband lost their house in Larkfield in the October 2017 fires but they are rebuilding. Their homeowner’s association has been proactive to bring in four of five contractors to allow them to get better prices. $220 a square foot instead of $350-500. So the group of builders will do it for a lot closer to the lower figure.
Carol Shelton was one of the first dozen women to go through the wine program at UC Davis, graduating in 1978. They taught winemaking but they didn’t teach viticulture so she learned that at Santa Rosa Junior College under Rich Thomas, who has been on the show many times.
Steve asks Carol Shelton what made her want to get into the wine business. Her mother taught her to cook from a very young age, and to identify herbs by the smell even before she could read. Her parents offered to pay for her education if she took something scientific that could lead to a good job, but they would not pay for her to study poetry. So she visited a winery and smelled oak saturated with red wine and she decided she wanted to smell that every day at work.
Dan says that Carol Shelton joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today is a great discoverer and he gives the example that she was making Carignane in the early 80s when nobody else was.
They taste her Wild Thing 2016 Chardonnay from a vineyard that they own. It’s all barrel fermented, no malolactic fermentation. Steve says it is adorable, Dan says it is a very succulent wine and is ready to drink now. It has a little tropical fruit flavor and has a rich mid-palette without any oak character. Carol says they stir the barrels every Wednesday for eight months. Dan says it’s so delicious and is ready to drink now, which is suggested by its screw cap.
The next wine tasted is called Coquille Blanc and is a blend of four varieties, mostly Grenache Blanc, and also Roussane, Viognier and Marsanne. Dan admires the complexity and subtlety of this wine and the different characteristics that come from the different grape varieties. Viognier gives you floral components. Grenache Blanc gives some chalky minerality, the Roussanne gives you peach and pear components, but Dan can’t figure out what is Marsanne’s best quality so he asks Carol. It has more peach flavors where the Roussanne has more almond. As this wine ages, they both will give a sweet honey flavor. Steve is surprised that he was thinking almonds just as she mentioned it. The Coquille is Carol’s favorite out of all the wines she makes. Dan says she is lucky because it is hard to get a good vineyard to grow all these grapes and she agrees that even if it is far away, it is worth it.
She bottles about 15 or 16 wines right now. She is no longer going to make Pinot Noir but her Zinfandel is so famous that she is concentrating on that now.
She tells about how during the fires they fled to their winery which has a fire retardant roof and concrete walls; the firemen were able to stop the fire two blocks from there. In their neighborhood there are several other winemakers who share things and help each other.
Dan Berger writes a weekly column in the Press Democrat (the local newspaper) and Steve asks him about this week’s column, which is about fads which come and go quickly versus trends which develop slowly. He mentions that Moscato was a fad for about a year. Today’s article is about trends that are on the upswing, trends that he noticed in 2017 and which will continue. First is the comeback of Merlot, but the biggest trend is that Rosé is coming on strong. Carol started making dry Rosé in 2002 and Dan says it is fabulous. She makes it from Carignane, which has vivid strawberry raspberry flavors. It is darker and not too thin, sugary or acidic, like some. This is crisp and soft and sweet.
She uses the name Wild Thing because she uses wild yeast, which means she adds no yeast to it, and it is farmed organically.
Now they taste the Carignane, which has the weight. Carol Shelton says that you can tell Carignane from Zinfandel grapes when they are ripe in the vineyard because Zin crunches and Carignane disintegrates in your mouth, it is pulpy like watermelon. She treats it like a Zin and keeps it in American oak, which loves big fruity wines.
Dan says he admires Carol Shelton’s wines for their structure and balance, and Carols adds, restraint. Ever since her wines for Windsor, there is never anything very ostentatious. It impresses you with subtlety. They have the explosive character of fruit but it’s their structure that carries the wine. Carol agrees and compares it to a chef who needs not to put too much sauce on things, not to over-do it. Steve says that certain restaurants overdo things.
Dan notes that she makes mostly red wines and asks why she doesn’t make so much white wine. She loves Zinfandel and she loves to set her own standards rather than to strive to copy styles from the regions in Europe where the grapes are native.
Dan notes that plenty of people are making vineyard-designated wines and that is better than blending wine from all over because the characteristics of that vineyard or “terroir” are what make it interesting. She is consciously trying to preserve the terroir of the vineyards. She does not want high alcohol or high sugar or too much oak. Dan says that high alcohol will cover the fruit flavors. Carol tells how she got some Chardonnay grapes that produced a wine that was 14.7% alcohol. After she removed some of the alcohol it got down to 13.3% and that allowed the fruit flavors to come through.
While Carol Shelton is rebuilding, she is also bottling the 2016 wines and finishing the fermentation of the 2017s.
She describes the Rockpile vineyard, which is above the fog level above Dry Creek Valley. The temperature range is narrower, between 70-90 degrees F instead of 50-105 degrees F in. She explains that in order to avoid higher alcohol content, they sometimes have to pick their grapes before all of the tannins are mature so they can be more rustic. This wine is more even because its fruit and tannins are both well developed.
This episode of California Wine Country was originally recorded and published on Dec. 20, 2017. Carol Shelton was last on this show in February of this year.
There is no new episode recorded today, Nov. 6, 2019, as we recover from the aftermath of this year’s fires in Sonoma County. Please consider making a donation to the Red Cross, which has done so much for Sonoma County again this year to help the community in its time of greatest need.
Carol Shelton joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. For more information visit her website https://www.carolshelton.com/
Carol Shelton
Dan Berger met Carol Shelton when she was making wines for Windsor Vineyards. They were winning gold medals in a lot of competitions but they were not widely known because they were not readily available at retail. So Dan wrote about how she was taking good fruit and making great wine. She explains how she spent 20 great years at Windsor after graduating with her degree in enology, until 2000 when she founded her own winery. Her Wild Thing wine is one of Steve Jaxon’s favorite wines.
She and her husband lost their house in Larkfield in the October 2017 fires but they are rebuilding. Their homeowner’s association has been proactive to bring in four of five contractors to allow them to get better prices. $220 a square foot instead of $350-500. So the group of builders will do it for a lot closer to the lower figure.
Carol Shelton was one of the first dozen women to go through the wine program at UC Davis, graduating in 1978. They taught winemaking but they didn’t teach viticulture so she learned that at Santa Rosa Junior College under Rich Thomas, who has been on the show many times.
Steve asks Carol Shelton what made her want to get into the wine business. Her mother taught her to cook from a very young age, and to identify herbs by the smell even before she could read. Her parents offered to pay for her education if she took something scientific that could lead to a good job, but they would not pay for her to study poetry. So she visited a winery and smelled oak saturated with red wine and she decided she wanted to smell that every day at work.
Dan says that Carol Shelton joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today is a great discoverer and he gives the example that she was making Carignane in the early 80s when nobody else was.
They taste her Wild Thing 2016 Chardonnay from a vineyard that they own. It’s all barrel fermented, no malolactic fermentation. Steve says it is adorable, Dan says it is a very succulent wine and is ready to drink now. It has a little tropical fruit flavor and has a rich mid-palette without any oak character. Carol says they stir the barrels every Wednesday for eight months. Dan says it’s so delicious and is ready to drink now, which is suggested by its screw cap.
The next wine tasted is called Coquille Blanc and is a blend of four varieties, mostly Grenache Blanc, and also Roussane, Viognier and Marsanne. Dan admires the complexity and subtlety of this wine and the different characteristics that come from the different grape varieties. Viognier gives you floral components. Grenache Blanc gives some chalky minerality, the Roussanne gives you peach and pear components, but Dan can’t figure out what is Marsanne’s best quality so he asks Carol. It has more peach flavors where the Roussanne has more almond. As this wine ages, they both will give a sweet honey flavor. Steve is surprised that he was thinking almonds just as she mentioned it. The Coquille is Carol’s favorite out of all the wines she makes. Dan says she is lucky because it is hard to get a good vineyard to grow all these grapes and she agrees that even if it is far away, it is worth it.
She bottles about 15 or 16 wines right now. She is no longer going to make Pinot Noir but her Zinfandel is so famous that she is concentrating on that now.
She tells about how during the fires they fled to their winery which has a fire retardant roof and concrete walls; the firemen were able to stop the fire two blocks from there. In their neighborhood there are several other winemakers who share things and help each other.
Dan Berger writes a weekly column in the Press Democrat (the local newspaper) and Steve asks him about this week’s column, which is about fads which come and go quickly versus trends which develop slowly. He mentions that Moscato was a fad for about a year. Today’s article is about trends that are on the upswing, trends that he noticed in 2017 and which will continue. First is the comeback of Merlot, but the biggest trend is that Rosé is coming on strong. Carol started making dry Rosé in 2002 and Dan says it is fabulous. She makes it from Carignane, which has vivid strawberry raspberry flavors. It is darker and not too thin, sugary or acidic, like some. This is crisp and soft and sweet.
She uses the name Wild Thing because she uses wild yeast, which means she adds no yeast to it, and it is farmed organically.
Now they taste the Carignane, which has the weight. Carol Shelton says that you can tell Carignane from Zinfandel grapes when they are ripe in the vineyard because Zin crunches and Carignane disintegrates in your mouth, it is pulpy like watermelon. She treats it like a Zin and keeps it in American oak, which loves big fruity wines.
Dan says he admires Carol Shelton’s wines for their structure and balance, and Carols adds, restraint. Ever since her wines for Windsor, there is never anything very ostentatious. It impresses you with subtlety. They have the explosive character of fruit but it’s their structure that carries the wine. Carol agrees and compares it to a chef who needs not to put too much sauce on things, not to over-do it. Steve says that certain restaurants overdo things.
Dan notes that she makes mostly red wines and asks why she doesn’t make so much white wine. She loves Zinfandel and she loves to set her own standards rather than to strive to copy styles from the regions in Europe where the grapes are native.
Dan notes that plenty of people are making vineyard-designated wines and that is better than blending wine from all over because the characteristics of that vineyard or “terroir” are what make it interesting. She is consciously trying to preserve the terroir of the vineyards. She does not want high alcohol or high sugar or too much oak. Dan says that high alcohol will cover the fruit flavors. Carol tells how she got some Chardonnay grapes that produced a wine that was 14.7% alcohol. After she removed some of the alcohol it got down to 13.3% and that allowed the fruit flavors to come through.
While Carol Shelton is rebuilding, she is also bottling the 2016 wines and finishing the fermentation of the 2017s.
She describes the Rockpile vineyard, which is above the fog level above Dry Creek Valley. The temperature range is narrower, between 70-90 degrees F instead of 50-105 degrees F in. She explains that in order to avoid higher alcohol content, they sometimes have to pick their grapes before all of the tannins are mature so they can be more rustic. This wine is more even because its fruit and tannins are both well developed.
(Due to the Kincade Fire in Sonoma County, there is no live California Wine Country show on KSRO today. This podcast episode was recorded 4 weeks ago in the show that aired on October 2. Please consider making a donation to the Red Cross which has done so much to help Sonoma County again during the fires this year.)
Nigel Westblade is visiting from Australia, sharing some of the wines that he produces as the chief winemaker at Peter Lehmann Wines in Australia. Tom Simoneau and Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn are also in today.
Dan Berger has fond memories of the late Peter Lehmann, “Peter Lehmann was quite a character… Every day of the year was a party with Peter Lehmann.”
Dan Berger has been to Australia 23 times so he knows their wine scene very well. He describes Barossa Valley as a wine-making region north of Adelaide, Australia, capable of producing great reds, “…but if you are very careful you can also make fabulous white wines.” Peter Lehmann has enjoyed great distribution in the United States for a few decades so the wines are highly regarded here.
Nigel Westblade
They taste a Pinot Noir which Nigel says has “bunchy” flavors, meaning it was made with whole berry fermentation. Nigel Westblade has also brought two bottles of Shiraz; first, a 2015 Barossa Shiraz with soft tannin structures that Dan calls “a strikingly together wine.”
Nigel Westblade describes how they work with the growers to get the canopy and the fruit levels right, and to get the winemakers out into the vineyard towards harvest, “to make sure we get the picking date absolutely spot on.”
The Barossa Valley is about an hour or two north of Adelaide. It is on the way to the Clare Valley wine region, where all the Rieslings are produced. In Australia they call their wine regions Geographical Indications or GIs, which are like the AVAs in the United States.
They taste the Peter Lehmann Barossian Shiraz. Barry Herbst says this will be available at Bottle Barn. It will retail for about $21, which they all agree is a bargain. Dan finds that this one is more elegant, more personality of fruit, more florals. He says that this wine has great fruit and beautiful structure and you don’t taste much barrel at all. Nigel explains that it does get put in barrels. He explains that they use barrels in the old English style called “hogshead” which is 300 liters, instead of the standard French-style barrel which Nigel calls a barrique, which has a capacity of 225 liters. The don’t get a strong oak impact but they do get a lovely softening of the tannin structure.
Tom Simoneau notes that when the cheap Syrah and Shiraz came in from Australia 10 years ago kind of ruined the varietal for the US. But now these new Shiraz wines that are coming in are going to redeem the varietal’s reputation.
Next they taste a 2014 Cabernet. Dan says it’s wonderful to have an aged Cabernet available. The 2017s out now are too young. Nigel says they are getting to a stage in the Barossa Valley where they are making nice Cabernet too. Tom Simoneau says it tastes like it could come from California. It is an older style, compared to the way Cabs are made now. Dan says Cabernets from Australia are under rated, only that the prices are so low that it’s not really worth it to import to the US.
Nigel remembers Peter Lehmann as a winemaker who thought about the relations with his growers so he managed to beg, borrow or steal enough equipment to be able to start a winery and promised the grape growers that he would take care of them in the future if they gave their grapes to him that year. They had a huge success and many of the relationships with growers that he started then are still in place, based on a handshake.
The Beverage People is Sonoma County’s fermentation headquarters since 1980. Tom Simoneau remembers that he used to buy a lot of equipment from them back when he was a home wine maker, before he turned pro.
(Due to the Kincade Fire in Sonoma County, there is no live California Wine Country show on KSRO today. This podcast episode was recorded 4 weeks ago in the show that aired on October 2. Please consider making a donation to the Red Cross which has done so much to help Sonoma County again during the fires this year.)
Nigel Westblade is visiting from Australia, sharing some of the wines that he produces as the chief winemaker at Peter Lehmann Wines in Australia. Tom Simoneau and Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn are also in today.
Dan Berger has fond memories of the late Peter Lehmann, “Peter Lehmann was quite a character… Every day of the year was a party with Peter Lehmann.”
Dan Berger has been to Australia 23 times so he knows their wine scene very well. He describes Barossa Valley as a wine-making region north of Adelaide, Australia, capable of producing great reds, “…but if you are very careful you can also make fabulous white wines.” Peter Lehmann has enjoyed great distribution in the United States for a few decades so the wines are highly regarded here.
Nigel Westblade
They taste a Pinot Noir which Nigel says has “bunchy” flavors, meaning it was made with whole berry fermentation. Nigel Westblade has also brought two bottles of Shiraz; first, a 2015 Barossa Shiraz with soft tannin structures that Dan calls “a strikingly together wine.”
Nigel Westblade describes how they work with the growers to get the canopy and the fruit levels right, and to get the winemakers out into the vineyard towards harvest, “to make sure we get the picking date absolutely spot on.”
The Barossa Valley is about an hour or two north of Adelaide. It is on the way to the Clare Valley wine region, where all the Rieslings are produced. In Australia they call their wine regions Geographical Indications or GIs, which are like the AVAs in the United States.
They taste the Peter Lehmann Barossian Shiraz. Barry Herbst says this will be available at Bottle Barn. It will retail for about $21, which they all agree is a bargain. Dan finds that this one is more elegant, more personality of fruit, more florals. He says that this wine has great fruit and beautiful structure and you don’t taste much barrel at all. Nigel explains that it does get put in barrels. He explains that they use barrels in the old English style called “hogshead” which is 300 liters, instead of the standard French-style barrel which Nigel calls a barrique, which has a capacity of 225 liters. The don’t get a strong oak impact but they do get a lovely softening of the tannin structure.
Tom Simoneau notes that when the cheap Syrah and Shiraz came in from Australia 10 years ago kind of ruined the varietal for the US. But now these new Shiraz wines that are coming in are going to redeem the varietal’s reputation.
Next they taste a 2014 Cabernet. Dan says it’s wonderful to have an aged Cabernet available. The 2017s out now are too young. Nigel says they are getting to a stage in the Barossa Valley where they are making nice Cabernet too. Tom Simoneau says it tastes like it could come from California. It is an older style, compared to the way Cabs are made now. Dan says Cabernets from Australia are under rated, only that the prices are so low that it’s not really worth it to import to the US.
Nigel remembers Peter Lehmann as a winemaker who thought about the relations with his growers so he managed to beg, borrow or steal enough equipment to be able to start a winery and promised the grape growers that he would take care of them in the future if they gave their grapes to him that year. They had a huge success and many of the relationships with growers that he started then are still in place, based on a handshake.
The Beverage People is Sonoma County’s fermentation headquarters since 1980. Tom Simoneau remembers that he used to buy a lot of equipment from them back when he was a home wine maker, before he turned pro.
Louisa Rose joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. She is the winemaker at Yalumba in Australia and one that Dan Berger holds in the highest esteem.
We also have a visit today from Mariangela of Della Toffola, one of our sponsors. She tells how Della Toffola was founded in Italy and opened their Santa Rosa, California affiliate in 2009. Even Louisa Rose uses some Della Toffola equipment, in Australia. The company also makes equipment for the craft beer industry, mainly in filtration.
Dan Berger met Louisa Rose probably soon after his first of many visits to Australia. Dan declares that Australia makes some of the best Rieslings in the world. He also says that Louisa is one of the most skilled winemakers in the world with consistently great results. Yalumba is an Aboriginal word, a local word meaning “all the land around.” They are based in the Barossa, in southern Australia, where they have established a high-quality production of certain varietals, especially Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre. More recently they have become known for Viogner too. Dan says it is a tricky variety and very few people in the US know a lot about it. There isn’t much of it grown here.
The first wine they serve is one of Dan’s favorite Rieslings ever, a 2018 Yalumba from a historic vineyard in the Eden Valley, that’s the cooler higher area. The vines came originally from Germany and the estate there has been producing Riesling for decades. The Barossa was settled by Scots and Germans. The Germans brought the Riesling. They have been making it for 172 years. In California we started in about 1880, so about 30 years later. Dan will cellar some for about 5 years.
Dan says that Yalumba doesn’t get the recognition it deserves, and that they produce a higher proportion of excellent wines than ever before Our sponsor Bottle Barn does carry the Rieslings and the Grenache that we will taste later.
Next they taste maybe the most interesting and stylish Australian Riesling, a 2013. Dan finds it very flavorful, with a toast flavor, and lime, white pepper and sage oil. Dan says this character comes from the vineyard, not the winery.
The founders of Yalumba came from Dorset in England in 1849. The same family is still there making wine, six generations later. They have never had philloxera there so many of their vines are the original rootstock.
They taste the “1961 Riesling” from a small part of the vineyard that was planted in 1961. They leave this wine on the lees for a longer time. It’s a 2018. Dan says it’s young and will develop its flavor profile later, even if it’s very drinkable now. It’s very dry.
Louisa Rose joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. She is the winemaker at Yalumba in Australia and one that Dan Berger holds in the highest esteem.
We also have a visit today from Mariangela of Della Toffola, one of our sponsors. She tells how Della Toffola was founded in Italy and opened their Santa Rosa, California affiliate in 2009. Even Louisa Rose uses some Della Toffola equipment, in Australia. The company also makes equipment for the craft beer industry, mainly in filtration.
Dan Berger met Louisa Rose probably soon after his first of many visits to Australia. Dan declares that Australia makes some of the best Rieslings in the world. He also says that Louisa is one of the most skilled winemakers in the world with consistently great results. Yalumba is an Aboriginal word, a local word meaning “all the land around.” They are based in the Barossa, in southern Australia, where they have established a high-quality production of certain varietals, especially Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre. More recently they have become known for Viogner too. Dan says it is a tricky variety and very few people in the US know a lot about it. There isn’t much of it grown here.
The first wine they serve is one of Dan’s favorite Rieslings ever, a 2018 Yalumba from a historic vineyard in the Eden Valley, that’s the cooler higher area. The vines came originally from Germany and the estate there has been producing Riesling for decades. The Barossa was settled by Scots and Germans. The Germans brought the Riesling. They have been making it for 172 years. In California we started in about 1880, so about 30 years later. Dan will cellar some for about 5 years.
Dan says that Yalumba doesn’t get the recognition it deserves, and that they produce a higher proportion of excellent wines than ever before Our sponsor Bottle Barn does carry the Rieslings and the Grenache that we will taste later.
Next they taste maybe the most interesting and stylish Australian Riesling, a 2013. Dan finds it very flavorful, with a toast flavor, and lime, white pepper and sage oil. Dan says this character comes from the vineyard, not the winery.
The founders of Yalumba came from Dorset in England in 1849. The same family is still there making wine, six generations later. They have never had philloxera there so many of their vines are the original rootstock.
They taste the “1961 Riesling” from a small part of the vineyard that was planted in 1961. They leave this wine on the lees for a longer time. It’s a 2018. Dan says it’s young and will develop its flavor profile later, even if it’s very drinkable now. It’s very dry.
Donald Patz joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Tom Simoneau is also in again this week, while Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn is busy and not in the studio today. Steve Jaxon asks Donald Patz about Patz & Hall wines and Donald explains that they sold the company in 2016. He stayed on to help run it but they got to a point where he wasn’t sure what more to do so he asked to be released from his non-compete clause, which they agreed to. So on May 1, 2017 he started his own venture, the Donald Patz Wine Group. He is here today to show some wines from all three of his labels, Maritana, Secret Door and Terminim.
James Hall was on this episode of CWC back in April of 2018.
Terminim is a collaboration of Rhone Valley style wine that me makes with a friend of his, François Villard. The grapes come from Mendocino County. The Terminim site describes it so: “The 2017 version of Cépages d’Or is 66% Marsanne and 34% Roussanne, picked separately and barrel fermented in 1-year-old French oak barrels using exclusively indigenous yeasts.”
Donald Patz
Maritana Vineyards La Riviere Chardonnay is the name. Maritana came from a combination of the sea and mountains. The word Oceans became Maritime and Mountains became Montana.
Later, he discovered that Maritana is a woman’s name in Portuguese and Russian. Dan Berger appreciates that the Marsanne is grown in a cool climate, which makes the grapes and the wine taste right (otherwise Dan says that it can have a flavor of mucilage, a kind of glue.)
Donald Patz wanted to focus exclusively on the Russian River Valley AVA. It is his favorite area for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. He gets grapes from all over the AVA. He also wanted to rethink barrel fermentation. He uses 90% 1-year-old, 10% new oak barrels. This way they focus on the elegant, pretty, citrusy flavors of Chardonnay. He does not want something “super thick and oaky” and not too much oak. Tom Simoneau points out the aromas of tropical fruit and peaches and the absence of oak flavor. Tom says the wine should have fruit first, “fruit forward” and oak should not be the first thing you notice on the nose. As a grower, Tom wants to smell fruit first, not oak. Dan Berger says in 2 more years this wine will flourish.
For Donald Patz, 2017 and 2018 have been delightful years, as he has been dedicated to his own new labels. He has been able to reconnect with his growers and feels excited and energized to have free reign to recreate.
Donald worked in the wine industry before Patz & Hall. He was a salesperson in the wine industry, so he moved from Eugene Oregon to Santa Rosa, California. He noticed they two towns were about the same size. He has a Biology degree from U of Oregon. He has been at it for thirty years now.
“The new stuff has been so much fun to explore.”
It’s harvest time and Tom Simoneau says they picked their last 20 tons of Cabernet today. “Simoneau vineyards is a grape-free zone!”
This Chardonnay comes from a specific part of Dutton Ranch. It’s called Shop Block. It’s the only remaining piece of the original 1967 plantings. Some is interplanted, though. This is a 2017 so the 50th year since the vines were planted. This one is more “right there” says Tom Simoneau. It’s about 20% old barrels, 80% new barrels. He has some similar wines from Patz & Hall from the early 2000s, “that are singing right now.” Dan Berger insists this will be better in an hour or two in a decanter, which suggests it would do very well in the cellar for a few years.
Tom mentions that it’s important to clean and dry a decanter. Dan even suggests his technique of using tiny little ball bearings to clean the bottom of a decanter, about 30, with hot water. The ball bearings take all the pigmentation off the glass that the wine has left.
Next is the 2017 Meritana La Rousse Pinot Noir. He likes the impact of new barrels on the right kind of Pinot Noir. He used about 1/3s whole cluster, to bring out the aromatics, then into about 75% new barrels. By 2018 he will have three single-vineyard designate Pinot Noirs.
Next they taste the Secret Door. The door will change with each release. On one label, the door is one that a friend of his took a picture of in northern India, the secret door into the ladies’ part of the palace. Another labels has a secret door to a park in Beijing. He wanted to make a Cabernet for his fiancée; he promised to make a Cab for her and this is it. It is 100% Cabernet, Sage Ridge vineyards, above Napa Valley. There are sage and bay leaf perfumes in the wine, and those are the plants that surround the vineyard. This Cabernet is $170 a bottle which is in the middle range for Napa Cabs.
Visit The Beverage People, online or at their store at 1845 Piner Rd. in Santa Rosa, CA, for everything you will need to make home brew beer, for holiday gifts and parties. Brew them now for the holidays, The Beverage People have all the ingredients and equipment and learning opportunities that you need to make beer, wine, cheese, how to cure olives, everything. Tom Simoneau remembers in the mid-’80s when he was just starting as a home winemaker, he was there a lot.
Donald Patz joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Tom Simoneau is also in again this week, while Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn is busy and not in the studio today. Steve Jaxon asks Donald Patz about Patz & Hall wines and Donald explains that they sold the company in 2016. He stayed on to help run it but they got to a point where he wasn’t sure what more to do so he asked to be released from his non-compete clause, which they agreed to. So on May 1, 2017 he started his own venture, the Donald Patz Wine Group. He is here today to show some wines from all three of his labels, Maritana, Secret Door and Terminim.
James Hall was on this episode of CWC back in April of 2018.
Terminim is a collaboration of Rhone Valley style wine that me makes with a friend of his, François Villard. The grapes come from Mendocino County. The Terminim site describes it so: “The 2017 version of Cépages d’Or is 66% Marsanne and 34% Roussanne, picked separately and barrel fermented in 1-year-old French oak barrels using exclusively indigenous yeasts.”
Donald Patz
Maritana Vineyards La Riviere Chardonnay is the name. Maritana came from a combination of the sea and mountains. The word Oceans became Maritime and Mountains became Montana.
Later, he discovered that Maritana is a woman’s name in Portuguese and Russian. Dan Berger appreciates that the Marsanne is grown in a cool climate, which makes the grapes and the wine taste right (otherwise Dan says that it can have a flavor of mucilage, a kind of glue.)
Donald Patz wanted to focus exclusively on the Russian River Valley AVA. It is his favorite area for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. He gets grapes from all over the AVA. He also wanted to rethink barrel fermentation. He uses 90% 1-year-old, 10% new oak barrels. This way they focus on the elegant, pretty, citrusy flavors of Chardonnay. He does not want something “super thick and oaky” and not too much oak. Tom Simoneau points out the aromas of tropical fruit and peaches and the absence of oak flavor. Tom says the wine should have fruit first, “fruit forward” and oak should not be the first thing you notice on the nose. As a grower, Tom wants to smell fruit first, not oak. Dan Berger says in 2 more years this wine will flourish.
For Donald Patz, 2017 and 2018 have been delightful years, as he has been dedicated to his own new labels. He has been able to reconnect with his growers and feels excited and energized to have free reign to recreate.
Donald worked in the wine industry before Patz & Hall. He was a salesperson in the wine industry, so he moved from Eugene Oregon to Santa Rosa, California. He noticed they two towns were about the same size. He has a Biology degree from U of Oregon. He has been at it for thirty years now.
“The new stuff has been so much fun to explore.”
It’s harvest time and Tom Simoneau says they picked their last 20 tons of Cabernet today. “Simoneau vineyards is a grape-free zone!”
This Chardonnay comes from a specific part of Dutton Ranch. It’s called Shop Block. It’s the only remaining piece of the original 1967 plantings. Some is interplanted, though. This is a 2017 so the 50th year since the vines were planted. This one is more “right there” says Tom Simoneau. It’s about 20% old barrels, 80% new barrels. He has some similar wines from Patz & Hall from the early 2000s, “that are singing right now.” Dan Berger insists this will be better in an hour or two in a decanter, which suggests it would do very well in the cellar for a few years.
Tom mentions that it’s important to clean and dry a decanter. Dan even suggests his technique of using tiny little ball bearings to clean the bottom of a decanter, about 30, with hot water. The ball bearings take all the pigmentation off the glass that the wine has left.
Next is the 2017 Meritana La Rousse Pinot Noir. He likes the impact of new barrels on the right kind of Pinot Noir. He used about 1/3s whole cluster, to bring out the aromatics, then into about 75% new barrels. By 2018 he will have three single-vineyard designate Pinot Noirs.
Next they taste the Secret Door. The door will change with each release. On one label, the door is one that a friend of his took a picture of in northern India, the secret door into the ladies’ part of the palace. Another labels has a secret door to a park in Beijing. He wanted to make a Cabernet for his fiancée; he promised to make a Cab for her and this is it. It is 100% Cabernet, Sage Ridge vineyards, above Napa Valley. There are sage and bay leaf perfumes in the wine, and those are the plants that surround the vineyard. This Cabernet is $170 a bottle which is in the middle range for Napa Cabs.
Visit The Beverage People, online or at their store at 1845 Piner Rd. in Santa Rosa, CA, for everything you will need to make home brew beer, for holiday gifts and parties. Brew them now for the holidays, The Beverage People have all the ingredients and equipment and learning opportunities that you need to make beer, wine, cheese, how to cure olives, everything. Tom Simoneau remembers in the mid-’80s when he was just starting as a home winemaker, he was there a lot.
Jen Walsh and Ben Fine from La Crema join Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today on California Wine Country. The Jackson family now owns the property. Dan says that La Crema’s brand has taken off in the last five or six years. The wine is great and the prices are fair and their production of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is very consistent.
Ben Fine tells about how Pinot Noir went from an afterthought to a mainstay. They love the concept of coastal fruit, sustainably farmed. Jen says that they have a lot of estate fruit.
They taste some Russian River Bubbles, their sparkling wine. It’s a non-vintage. The fruit comes from Saralee’s vineyard (planted by Rich and Saralee Kunde). She describes it as a traditional method, low dosage, high-acid, “kind of zippy” sparkling wine.
Jen Walsh got into the wine business working in her uncle’s restaurant. She knew that she was interested in wine so she came to California and attended UC Davis.
Ben says that when you have a special occasion to celebrate, you can trust La Crema to deliver an excellent wine. Dan says this sparkling wine is an “absolute killer” example of how to blend, as it is 70% Chardonnay, and the Pinot is only 30% of the blend, yet it is the dominant flavor. With age, the Chardonnay flavors will emerge. It is only available at their tasting room. (Steve Jaxon is a great Chardonnay fan and La Crema is the label that he usually asks for.) In this sparkling wine, Dan Berger notes a citrus flavor combined with a creamy flavor “like a delicate French reduction sauce.” Jen says that they try to be restrained with their oak texture so it doesn’t dominate. Ben says the oak is like the frame of a picture.
Next they taste the Kelli Anne Chardonnay. These single vineyard wines are available in the tasting room and in local restaurants.
Jen describes the Kelli Ann vineyard as an old, low-yielding vineyard, planted on an old rootstock. It is close to the Russian River so it has a high water table, which allows it to be dry farmed. The vines are about 30 years old. Pete Foppiano remembers when the prices for Chardonnay started to spike, after the Judgement of Paris. Several of those vineyards have been replanted since the, but not the Saralee vineyard! Before that, Sonoma County used to be best known for its prunes.
They taste the 2016 La Crema Pinot Noir which Dan Berger says is among the best Pinot Noir being produced in California. It sells at retail for about $60, and it is as good as others that sell for $75, says Dan. The acidity is what will make all the flavors knit together, starting after about three years. Dan could lay it down for as much as 12 years, but no longer, for Pinot Noir. Dan thinks this one is capable of going for 18-20 years, though. Decanting, for an hour or two, will help, as always. Many Pinot Noirs should not even be opened before 5 years, for them to express themselves to all of their potential. If you do decant it, don’t drink it after only 20 minutes; give it time.
Ben Fine’s title is Wine Educator, for the winery. He gets to spend time with Jen and the other staff, watching all aspects of their production from up close. They have a tasting room at La Crema Estate at Saralee’s Vineyard. They also have picnics and vineyard tours there. They also have a tasting room in Healdsburg, on the square. Dan reminds everyone that Rich Kunde understood clones of Pinot Noir like nobody else, along with André Tchelistcheff.
The Shell Ridge vineyard is near the coast, a few miles from Healdsburg but it takes an hour and a half to get there, on the windy roads. Jen says that the wine has a savory, wild quality to it, and violets and blackberries.
They also make a small amount of Riesling, which is a variety that Dan really appreciates for its versatility.
Jen Walsh and Ben Fine from La Crema join Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today on California Wine Country. The Jackson family now owns the property. Dan says that La Crema’s brand has taken off in the last five or six years. The wine is great and the prices are fair and their production of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is very consistent.
Ben Fine tells about how Pinot Noir went from an afterthought to a mainstay. They love the concept of coastal fruit, sustainably farmed. Jen says that they have a lot of estate fruit.
They taste some Russian River Bubbles, their sparkling wine. It’s a non-vintage. The fruit comes from Saralee’s vineyard (planted by Rich and Saralee Kunde). She describes it as a traditional method, low dosage, high-acid, “kind of zippy” sparkling wine.
Jen Walsh got into the wine business working in her uncle’s restaurant. She knew that she was interested in wine so she came to California and attended UC Davis.
Ben says that when you have a special occasion to celebrate, you can trust La Crema to deliver an excellent wine. Dan says this sparkling wine is an “absolute killer” example of how to blend, as it is 70% Chardonnay, and the Pinot is only 30% of the blend, yet it is the dominant flavor. With age, the Chardonnay flavors will emerge. It is only available at their tasting room. (Steve Jaxon is a great Chardonnay fan and La Crema is the label that he usually asks for.) In this sparkling wine, Dan Berger notes a citrus flavor combined with a creamy flavor “like a delicate French reduction sauce.” Jen says that they try to be restrained with their oak texture so it doesn’t dominate. Ben says the oak is like the frame of a picture.
Next they taste the Kelli Anne Chardonnay. These single vineyard wines are available in the tasting room and in local restaurants.
Jen describes the Kelli Ann vineyard as an old, low-yielding vineyard, planted on an old rootstock. It is close to the Russian River so it has a high water table, which allows it to be dry farmed. The vines are about 30 years old. Pete Foppiano remembers when the prices for Chardonnay started to spike, after the Judgement of Paris. Several of those vineyards have been replanted since the, but not the Saralee vineyard! Before that, Sonoma County used to be best known for its prunes.
They taste the 2016 La Crema Pinot Noir which Dan Berger says is among the best Pinot Noir being produced in California. It sells at retail for about $60, and it is as good as others that sell for $75, says Dan. The acidity is what will make all the flavors knit together, starting after about three years. Dan could lay it down for as much as 12 years, but no longer, for Pinot Noir. Dan thinks this one is capable of going for 18-20 years, though. Decanting, for an hour or two, will help, as always. Many Pinot Noirs should not even be opened before 5 years, for them to express themselves to all of their potential. If you do decant it, don’t drink it after only 20 minutes; give it time.
Ben Fine’s title is Wine Educator, for the winery. He gets to spend time with Jen and the other staff, watching all aspects of their production from up close. They have a tasting room at La Crema Estate at Saralee’s Vineyard. They also have picnics and vineyard tours there. They also have a tasting room in Healdsburg, on the square. Dan reminds everyone that Rich Kunde understood clones of Pinot Noir like nobody else, along with André Tchelistcheff.
The Shell Ridge vineyard is near the coast, a few miles from Healdsburg but it takes an hour and a half to get there, on the windy roads. Jen says that the wine has a savory, wild quality to it, and violets and blackberries.
They also make a small amount of Riesling, which is a variety that Dan really appreciates for its versatility.
Today’s guests are Sheila Quince from the Sonoma County Harvest Fair and Tom Simoneau who join Steve Jaxon Dan Berger and Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn. Barry has brought in the three top Sweepstakes Gold Medal winners from the 2019 Sonoma County Harvest Fair. Shelia is the wine judging coordinator for the Harvest Fair. Tom Simoneau has never judged at Harvest Fair. In 1992 Tom won the Best Amateur Wine Sweepstakes award, and Steve’s station called Tom to get an interview for a show about wine and food. That is when Steve named Tom Simoneau The Sonoma County Wine Guy.
There are three sweepstakes winners, red, white and specialty, which includes anything else like rosé or sparkling wines. The first tasting today is the Specialty category Sweepstakes winner, the Balletto Sparkling Brut Rosé 2018. They have won three times. Two years ago they won the award for best red. Dan describes its unique copper-ish color. It rests on the beautiful soft tannins. It’s a red wine in sparkling form, pink in color, but the tannins are gone. Barry says the wine’s great acidity comes from them picking early in their own vineyards.
Bottle Barn already has over 100 bottles of Gold Medal and above Harvest Fair wines, right in the middle of the store. Tom says the Harvest Fair has done a lot for great local winemakers. Sheila tells how they started Harvest Fair in 1975. There were 19 wineries that entered 155 wines. This year, 148 wineries have entered 1,024 wines. Tom describes how they still have customers today that they got in the wake of their Gold Medal wins three years ago. Dan remembers the Glen Ellen 1985 Cabernet won in 1987, which catapulted that company into a major brand. The Harvest Fair Gold Medal that Kenwood won for their Sauvignon Blanc had a similar effect for them.
Sheila Quince tells how they have three sweepstakes winners, the Specialty, red and white. All are judged by private ballot. The top 3 are kept secret until the awards night gala. Next they open the White Sweepstakes winner, the 2018 Russian River Winery Chardonnay from Peterson Vineyard. Barry Herbst says it nicely straddles the middle between the buttery and the steely styles of Chard. Dan says it is unoaked and the spicy flowery components are in all kinds of Russian River Valley grapes, not just Chardonnay. This may be the first unoaked Chardonnay to win a Harvest Fair sweepstakes. The running score is Sauvignon Blanc 17, Chardonnay 10, over the last 27 years. No other white varieties have won the Harvest Fair sweepstakes.
Finally, the 2017 J Vineyards Pinot Noir is the red sweepstakes winner.
Today’s guests are Sheila Quince from the Sonoma County Harvest Fair and Tom Simoneau who join Steve Jaxon Dan Berger and Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn. Barry has brought in the three top Sweepstakes Gold Medal winners from the 2019 Sonoma County Harvest Fair. Shelia is the wine judging coordinator for the Harvest Fair. Tom Simoneau has never judged at Harvest Fair. In 1992 Tom won the Best Amateur Wine Sweepstakes award, and Steve’s station called Tom to get an interview for a show about wine and food. That is when Steve named Tom Simoneau The Sonoma County Wine Guy.
There are three sweepstakes winners, red, white and specialty, which includes anything else like rosé or sparkling wines. The first tasting today is the Specialty category Sweepstakes winner, the Balletto Sparkling Brut Rosé 2018. They have won three times. Two years ago they won the award for best red. Dan describes its unique copper-ish color. It rests on the beautiful soft tannins. It’s a red wine in sparkling form, pink in color, but the tannins are gone. Barry says the wine’s great acidity comes from them picking early in their own vineyards.
Bottle Barn already has over 100 bottles of Gold Medal and above Harvest Fair wines, right in the middle of the store. Tom says the Harvest Fair has done a lot for great local winemakers. Sheila tells how they started Harvest Fair in 1975. There were 19 wineries that entered 155 wines. This year, 148 wineries have entered 1,024 wines. Tom describes how they still have customers today that they got in the wake of their Gold Medal wins three years ago. Dan remembers the Glen Ellen 1985 Cabernet won in 1987, which catapulted that company into a major brand. The Harvest Fair Gold Medal that Kenwood won for their Sauvignon Blanc had a similar effect for them.
Sheila Quince tells how they have three sweepstakes winners, the Specialty, red and white. All are judged by private ballot. The top 3 are kept secret until the awards night gala. Next they open the White Sweepstakes winner, the 2018 Russian River Winery Chardonnay from Peterson Vineyard. Barry Herbst says it nicely straddles the middle between the buttery and the steely styles of Chard. Dan says it is unoaked and the spicy flowery components are in all kinds of Russian River Valley grapes, not just Chardonnay. This may be the first unoaked Chardonnay to win a Harvest Fair sweepstakes. The running score is Sauvignon Blanc 17, Chardonnay 10, over the last 27 years. No other white varieties have won the Harvest Fair sweepstakes.
Finally, the 2017 J Vineyards Pinot Noir is the red sweepstakes winner.
Today’s guests are from Mt. Beautiful Winery in New Zealand, CEO Robert Watkins and Marketing Manager Suzanna Mannion join Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Berry Herbst in the studio.
Dan Berger believes this is an exciting time in California when we will start to have more distribution of New Zealand wines here, because they are excellent. Robert says they have distribution now in 38 US states and about 10 export countries. With the US dollar currently stronger than the NZ dollar, US buyers have a price advantage.
The winery was founded by a New Zealander who is a professor at UC Berkeley. He did careful research to find his site, then he planted in 2004 and his first vintage was 2007. They are in Canterbury on the South island. Their SB is different than the one from Marlborough on the north island. They want creamy mid-palette, a long finish and good minerality. The 2012 that they are tasting has some green herbal notes, which you get from cool climates.
Next they taste the 2018 Sauvignon Blanc, which Dan says is beautiful, even though you don’t usually age Sauvignon Blanc. Dan notices some kiwi fruit in the flavor, which gets a laugh. They don’t make it like this in Europe because it’s not cold enough.
They typically harvest the 3rd week of March into the 3rd week of April. Usually it’s a 3 week process. The next big wine, for New Zealand, after Sauvignon Blanc, is Pinot Noir. That is where they want to go next, as an industry and at their winery.
They get 8 tons per hectare, while Marlborough has 16 tons per hectare, double of their yield. They use screw caps on 97% of the New Zealand wines. Robert tells how they found that there were no cork suppliers and only two lines that could bottle with corks. So it was a virtue of necessity.
The place is “heaven on earth” and there’s no one there. The whole country has as many people as the Bay Area. Accounting and banking are quite different, but Robert says there is so much to do and see. It’s only 12 hours to Aukland so it’s not much more than going to Europe (from the US west coast).
Dan says that there are some Californians who have invested in properties in New Zealand. He says that they are doing a great job with their red wines. Barry says they used to sell 80-20 whites to reds from NZ, now it’s more like 60-40.
Next they taste the 2017 Chardonnay. They import about 60 French oak barrels per year and they have 400 barrels in stock, that they use. They had a small block of Chardonnay It’s rich without being over the top, the fruit is citrusy, with a tiny taste of honey. It’s about 40% ML, done in barrel. This will be their house style, with the integration of the oak being part of the whole but not dominant. Dan says that sometimes NZ wines have such high acidity that they are awkward and unbalanced. This one does not suffer from that, it is rich without being flabby.
Today’s guests are from Mt. Beautiful Winery in New Zealand, CEO Robert Watkins and Marketing Manager Suzanna Mannion join Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Berry Herbst in the studio.
Dan Berger believes this is an exciting time in California when we will start to have more distribution of New Zealand wines here, because they are excellent. Robert says they have distribution now in 38 US states and about 10 export countries. With the US dollar currently stronger than the NZ dollar, US buyers have a price advantage.
The winery was founded by a New Zealander who is a professor at UC Berkeley. He did careful research to find his site, then he planted in 2004 and his first vintage was 2007. They are in Canterbury on the South island. Their SB is different than the one from Marlborough on the north island. They want creamy mid-palette, a long finish and good minerality. The 2012 that they are tasting has some green herbal notes, which you get from cool climates.
Next they taste the 2018 Sauvignon Blanc, which Dan says is beautiful, even though you don’t usually age Sauvignon Blanc. Dan notices some kiwi fruit in the flavor, which gets a laugh. They don’t make it like this in Europe because it’s not cold enough.
They typically harvest the 3rd week of March into the 3rd week of April. Usually it’s a 3 week process. The next big wine, for New Zealand, after Sauvignon Blanc, is Pinot Noir. That is where they want to go next, as an industry and at their winery.
They get 8 tons per hectare, while Marlborough has 16 tons per hectare, double of their yield. They use screw caps on 97% of the New Zealand wines. Robert tells how they found that there were no cork suppliers and only two lines that could bottle with corks. So it was a virtue of necessity.
The place is “heaven on earth” and there’s no one there. The whole country has as many people as the Bay Area. Accounting and banking are quite different, but Robert says there is so much to do and see. It’s only 12 hours to Aukland so it’s not much more than going to Europe (from the US west coast).
Dan says that there are some Californians who have invested in properties in New Zealand. He says that they are doing a great job with their red wines. Barry says they used to sell 80-20 whites to reds from NZ, now it’s more like 60-40.
Next they taste the 2017 Chardonnay. They import about 60 French oak barrels per year and they have 400 barrels in stock, that they use. They had a small block of Chardonnay It’s rich without being over the top, the fruit is citrusy, with a tiny taste of honey. It’s about 40% ML, done in barrel. This will be their house style, with the integration of the oak being part of the whole but not dominant. Dan says that sometimes NZ wines have such high acidity that they are awkward and unbalanced. This one does not suffer from that, it is rich without being flabby.
Tom Simoneau
Michelle Marquez is filling in for Steve Jaxon today. Dan Berger and Tom Simoneau are both in today as well. Simoneau Vineyards is putting on a Winemaker Dinner at the Bay View Restaurant at the Inn at the Tides in Bodega Bay. Today, Tom Simoneau has invited Marco Gallazzo and Luca Duria from the Inn at the Tides. Luca is the chef there and will prepare the dinner that they will serve at the Winemaker’s Dinner on Friday, October 14th, at the Inn. Today in the studio they have brought the whole dinner served with linen and actual silverware. They will pair it with the four wines that they will serve that evening. The chef is an expert Italian chef.
Tom Simoneau started making wine in 1983 but only went commercial in 2005. He is known as a grape grower but his production under his label is small and he only sells direct to consumer.
Tom has brought his Chardonnay Rosé. Dan says there may have been others but this one is superb. It’s made using early harvested Chardonnay fruit. The aftertaste has a gorgeous strawberry raspberry finish. Tom says it’s hard to make. They crushed the red grapes, Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon separately, before the Chardonnay grapes.
Diners will taste Tom Simoneau’s Cabernet Sauvignon, Meritage red wine, Brenda Lee Chardonnay and Chardonnay Rosé, with the dinner. You can make reservations by emailing or calling the Inn at the Tides. There will be a Lemon Risotto with fresh peas and pea shoots, and prawns finished in butter and Brenda Lee Chardonnay. It will be paired with the 2013 Brenda Lee Chardonnay, their 25th harvest. The oldest vines in that vineyard are from 1972, with some later plantings. They use French oak barrels and only 30% malolactic fermentation. Dan says the entry shows good acidity and the aftertaste is rich enough to go with the richness of the risotto. The rice is perfectly cooked, al dente, as it should be. Chef Luca explains that Italian Arborio rice keeps its texture very well.
Tom Simoneau
Michelle Marquez is filling in for Steve Jaxon today. Dan Berger and Tom Simoneau are both in today as well. Simoneau Vineyards is putting on a Winemaker Dinner at the Bay View Restaurant at the Inn at the Tides in Bodega Bay. Today, Tom Simoneau has invited Marco Gallazzo and Luca Duria from the Inn at the Tides. Luca is the chef there and will prepare the dinner that they will serve at the Winemaker’s Dinner on Friday, October 14th, at the Inn. Today in the studio they have brought the whole dinner served with linen and actual silverware. They will pair it with the four wines that they will serve that evening. The chef is an expert Italian chef.
Tom Simoneau started making wine in 1983 but only went commercial in 2005. He is known as a grape grower but his production under his label is small and he only sells direct to consumer.
Tom has brought his Chardonnay Rosé. Dan says there may have been others but this one is superb. It’s made using early harvested Chardonnay fruit. The aftertaste has a gorgeous strawberry raspberry finish. Tom says it’s hard to make. They crushed the red grapes, Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon separately, before the Chardonnay grapes.
Diners will taste Tom Simoneau’s Cabernet Sauvignon, Meritage red wine, Brenda Lee Chardonnay and Chardonnay Rosé, with the dinner. You can make reservations by emailing or calling the Inn at the Tides. There will be a Lemon Risotto with fresh peas and pea shoots, and prawns finished in butter and Brenda Lee Chardonnay. It will be paired with the 2013 Brenda Lee Chardonnay, their 25th harvest. The oldest vines in that vineyard are from 1972, with some later plantings. They use French oak barrels and only 30% malolactic fermentation. Dan says the entry shows good acidity and the aftertaste is rich enough to go with the richness of the risotto. The rice is perfectly cooked, al dente, as it should be. Chef Luca explains that Italian Arborio rice keeps its texture very well.
Winemaker Clark Smith is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, with some wines he has made from unusual grapes, including the native American variety called Norton.
Clark Smith joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. He has his own label WineSmith Wines, he is the winemaker for Diamond Ridge, and also an author and professor. His new book is called Postmodern Winemaking.
Postmodern Winemaking by Clark Smith.
Clark Smith dropped out of MIT in 1971, came to California and got a job in a liquor store. Eventually he tasted every wine in the store and he sold wine for 5 or 6 years. He made his first wine in 1976. When he decided to make wine, he ended up at Davis and finished his BA and MA in wine. Then, he had a series of jobs in wine and many jobs as a wine consultant.
He makes his own wines and consults to about 120 wineries. He gives classes including fundamentals of wine chemistry and has taught over 4500 students.
Dan Berger explains that today we have wine from grapes that nobody has ever heard of. There is a lot more wine than Chardonnay, Cabernet and Pinot Noir. For example, Don Chigazola a few weeks ago told about lots of white wines in Italy that are unknown here. There are also styles that nobody else is doing.
Clark has a wine that he calls Faux Chablis and his current vintage is 2005.
There are really two wine industries, says Clark. There are 64 wineries that make 95% of the volume of wine and 100% of what is sold in stores. This is like pop music. Then you have 25,000 wineries that make the other 5%, averaging 2,000 cases. Clark is one of these. He has to make his own kind of music. He has to have his own unique sound. So every wine he’s opening today, there is nobody else in California doing it. These wines are not in stores. You have to come see them.
His wines come from all over California because the varieties are planted all over the state. Clark also says you have to get out of the Napa / Sonoma high real-estate land. If you can sell cabernet for $200 per bottle, you won’t plant Barbera there, which is a shame.
They open a 2014 Santa Cruz Mountain Sparkling Grenache. They also make a red wine from this vineyard. Clark explains about champagne, calls it the worst white wine in the world. Since our grapes in California are full of flavor, our sparkling wines will taste better. It’s a 2014 so right now it’s very fresh.
The bottles tasted today.
Next is a red wine, a 2015 WineSmith St. Laurent. His saint’s day is August 10, which is the day this grape is harvested. It’s early so it’s low in alcohol. The wine is extremely soft. “It’s kind of like a cynical beaujolais,” says Clark. Dan Berger says the flavors are unique to the variety. It’s sort of like Beaujolais but this is more complex with a dry aftertaste. Despite its softness, it is dry.
Diamond Ridge is a vineyard in the southeast corner of Clear Lake, next to the lake. The wines capture incredible fruit and the wines age for a long time. He has made wine there for 12 years now. Dan says that Cabernet Franc rules up in those cold areas and can make great wine.
Next they taste the Norton. The Norton grape is from Virginia where it was found in the woods. There are 500 wineries making it in the US. It makes a dense, plush wine, “if you can get it right.” It is disease and winter tolerant. But in most places it grows where it can’t get ripe enough, though.
Clark Smith’s new book is called Postmodern Winemaking. If you go to his website, the promo code is IKNOWCLARK to get a 20% discount.
The first half of the book is highly technical, about wine structure and aeromatic integration. Non-winemakers can skim over it. Starting with chapter 12, it gets easier. He comments on all the current issues in winemaking. It ends in a chapter called Liquid Music, where he says that wine is processed cognitatively the same as music.
They taste a Meritage wine, of the five Bordeaux varieties, from an organic vineyard. He used no sulfites yet it aged in the barrel five and a half years.
The last one is a Petit Manseng. Grapes are normally 24 or 25% sugar but this variety comes in at 32%. The wine is very sweet but perfectly balanced. It could go with chocolate mousse.
Winemaker Clark Smith is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, with some wines he has made from unusual grapes, including the native American variety called Norton.
Clark Smith joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. He has his own label WineSmith Wines, he is the winemaker for Diamond Ridge, and also an author and professor. His new book is called Postmodern Winemaking.
Postmodern Winemaking by Clark Smith.
Clark Smith dropped out of MIT in 1971, came to California and got a job in a liquor store. Eventually he tasted every wine in the store and he sold wine for 5 or 6 years. He made his first wine in 1976. When he decided to make wine, he ended up at Davis and finished his BA and MA in wine. Then, he had a series of jobs in wine and many jobs as a wine consultant.
He makes his own wines and consults to about 120 wineries. He gives classes including fundamentals of wine chemistry and has taught over 4500 students.
Dan Berger explains that today we have wine from grapes that nobody has ever heard of. There is a lot more wine than Chardonnay, Cabernet and Pinot Noir. For example, Don Chigazola a few weeks ago told about lots of white wines in Italy that are unknown here. There are also styles that nobody else is doing.
Clark has a wine that he calls Faux Chablis and his current vintage is 2005.
There are really two wine industries, says Clark. There are 64 wineries that make 95% of the volume of wine and 100% of what is sold in stores. This is like pop music. Then you have 25,000 wineries that make the other 5%, averaging 2,000 cases. Clark is one of these. He has to make his own kind of music. He has to have his own unique sound. So every wine he’s opening today, there is nobody else in California doing it. These wines are not in stores. You have to come see them.
His wines come from all over California because the varieties are planted all over the state. Clark also says you have to get out of the Napa / Sonoma high real-estate land. If you can sell cabernet for $200 per bottle, you won’t plant Barbera there, which is a shame.
They open a 2014 Santa Cruz Mountain Sparkling Grenache. They also make a red wine from this vineyard. Clark explains about champagne, calls it the worst white wine in the world. Since our grapes in California are full of flavor, our sparkling wines will taste better. It’s a 2014 so right now it’s very fresh.
The bottles tasted today.
Next is a red wine, a 2015 WineSmith St. Laurent. His saint’s day is August 10, which is the day this grape is harvested. It’s early so it’s low in alcohol. The wine is extremely soft. “It’s kind of like a cynical beaujolais,” says Clark. Dan Berger says the flavors are unique to the variety. It’s sort of like Beaujolais but this is more complex with a dry aftertaste. Despite its softness, it is dry.
Diamond Ridge is a vineyard in the southeast corner of Clear Lake, next to the lake. The wines capture incredible fruit and the wines age for a long time. He has made wine there for 12 years now. Dan says that Cabernet Franc rules up in those cold areas and can make great wine.
Next they taste the Norton. The Norton grape is from Virginia where it was found in the woods. There are 500 wineries making it in the US. It makes a dense, plush wine, “if you can get it right.” It is disease and winter tolerant. But in most places it grows where it can’t get ripe enough, though.
Clark Smith’s new book is called Postmodern Winemaking. If you go to his website, the promo code is IKNOWCLARK to get a 20% discount.
The first half of the book is highly technical, about wine structure and aeromatic integration. Non-winemakers can skim over it. Starting with chapter 12, it gets easier. He comments on all the current issues in winemaking. It ends in a chapter called Liquid Music, where he says that wine is processed cognitatively the same as music.
They taste a Meritage wine, of the five Bordeaux varieties, from an organic vineyard. He used no sulfites yet it aged in the barrel five and a half years.
The last one is a Petit Manseng. Grapes are normally 24 or 25% sugar but this variety comes in at 32%. The wine is very sweet but perfectly balanced. It could go with chocolate mousse.
Bob Cabral is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He was last on CWC in June of 2017 and that episode was repeated in March of this year.
Three Sticks Wines is a project that Bob Cabral does with Bill Price. Bill also works with Kistler and Gary Farrell. But Bill Price owns the Dorell vineyard and Gap’s Crown vineyard overlooking Sonoma State. Bob Cabral wanted the opportunity to work with the best vineyards in Sonoma County.
Three Sticks Dorell Pinot Noir is on the cover of the current issue of Wine Spectator. Three Sticks the name, comes from Bill Price. He grew up in California and Hawaii. He is William Price III, and his friends started calling him “Three Sticks” because of the name.
Great wine always starts in the vineyard, Dan Berger says, and winemakers need to start their business out there. Bill Price’s vineyards are some of the best terroir vineyards in America. The Dorell vineyard has some of the best Chardonnay available.
Bob says that Bill wanted to acquire sites in California and especially Sonoma County, that are world class, and to preserve them as such for the world. They have several long term projects.
Dan says it is great that these wines are locally available. If you find them, they are not very expensive but they demonstrate terroir in the consistency from vintage to vintage.
Bob Cabral also does some distilling and has brought some Rye Whiskey.
It is a project of the Splinter Spirits Group. They have been distilling for 3 years not, Rye, Whiskey and Bourbons. They did a 300 barrel batch of bourbon, it took all week but his impression is the process goes by fast.
He then puts the whiskey into his used French Oak wine barrels. They give another dimension to their spirits. Bartenders say that it works great in cocktail mixing.
Bob Cabral Wines makes Pinot, Chardonnay and a little Riesling, about 500 cases total. They have a new tasting salon at Flight Deck in Healdsburg. He and his wife run Bob Cabral wines as his muse, as he makes the wine, and after expenses all the money he makes goes back into the community.
Dan asks Bob about a Wilamette Valley project, called Fire Steed, where he is the consulting winemaker. Bob Cabral appreciates the amazing diversity of agriculture in Oregon. Dan says that Oregon has always had good quality low cost fruit. Someone has to make it right to develop the reputation.
They are tasting a Pinot Noir from Bob Cabral wines. Bob describes the big profile, and fruit, and spicy.
They made about 100 cases of their 2016 Chardonnay, which they are tasting. It comes from two cold Sonoma Coast vineyards. Bob does not add yeast, he uses native natural yeast.
His whiskey is called Whipsaw Rye. He uses 77% rye grain which is a spicy grain . Bourbon must have at least 51% corn. Bob has realized that half of the flavor of the spirits is in the barrels. He gets even better flavors by putting spirits into his old wine barrels.