The white wines of Bordeaux have never achieved the aura of magnificence that surrounds the red wines of that district. In truth, the white wines of Bordeaux, except for a very few, are today, almost invisible. These wines most definitely are not in any way the lesser of the two styles but suffer from a dreadful malady called history. For centuries, the rule was “red wine for the men, white wine for the ladies.” That was perfect for the male-dominated societies of the “way back when,” but it has not carried through to the present time of sexual equality. About...