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In Episode 342, Kestrel welcomes Olivia Cueva, a radical dreamer, designer, technologist, and researcher, to the show. Olivia's work bridges creative technology, fashion, biomaterials, and storytelling to explore transformation, regeneration, and collective care. Her practice moves fluidly between community-centered education, speculative design, and research into sustainable and bio-based materials—always with the aim of sparking dialogue, nurturing resilience, and envisioning more just futures.

"A lot of the research that I do now is focused on natural dyes and working with plants and seeing how the natural dyes that we would maybe normally use on natural fibers actually translate to biomaterials. it's been a really amazing process of returning or like sort of remembering ancestry in a way … when I'm working with a certain plant, I'm actually not just looking at its color properties, but I'm also researching what is the story of this plant? How has it been used in different indigenous cultures?" -Olivia

THEME — EXPANSIONS AROUND MATERIALITY TO RETHINK FASHION'S SYSTEMS

Before we dive in this week, I want to share a massive thank you and shout out to my friend Denali Joie, who was featured back on episode 312. Denali helped connect me with this week's guest after meeting her in Brazil at a conference. You can listen to my episode with Denali here >

I am so grateful for this connection as it led to this week's guest's cofounder attending the Design For Compliance workshop Gabi and I hosted at UC Berkeley through Fashion Is Outrageous, and led to the amazing conversation that you're about to hear.

Sometimes, we don't slow down enough to realize how these tiny links lead to really beautiful future moments, and I just wanted to take a moment to honor Denali and the way that she instigated this beautiful unfolding.

This week, we're talking about a super intriguing overlapping of biomaterials research with community-centered education. My guest, Olivia, has woven these seemingly diverse practices into her extremely expansive work.

However, when we get into it, and she talks about using "Future-Facing Innovation" to reimagine our relationships with garments and the systems around us, or she shares more on how her biomaterials research links with Oakland Style Lab, a sustainable fashion education program and community cultural hub dedicated to building a more inclusive and resilient fashion ecosystem in the Bay Area – the correlations are beautifully seamless.

She shares with us how ancestral knowledge and intergenerational learning drive her work and how throughout it all, she focuses on slowing down in order to better reclaim critical thinking amidst the current world we live in.

Amidst the consistently depressing political times we are existing within, it's a refreshingly grounded take that definitely helped me feel optimistic and further motivated.

• "Fashion is so interesting because we're all connected to this industry, whether we care about what we wear or not. Right? Like we all wear clothes for the most part. It's something that touches every society. Whether we shop fast fashion, we only shop thrift, we only shop sustainable fashion brands or we shop at Target — you know, we all are participating in this system and the system is generating so many clothes and textiles and so much waste, and so many people are not aware of that." -Olivia
• Oakland Style Lab's Website
• Olivia's Website
• Oakland Style Lab Instagram
• Olivia's Instagram

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In Episode 341, Kestrel welcomes Dr. Joanne Brasch, the Assistant Director at the California Product Stewardship Council (CPSC), to the show. A network of local governments, non-government organizations, businesses, and individuals supporting policies and projects where producers share in the responsibility for managing problem products at their end of life, CPSC is California's thought leader and expert on Product Stewardship and the Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) movement.

"We're most proud of our textile EPR program because we achieved a lot in SB 707 that set a new level, a new generation of EPR programs that take a higher priority and implement a lot more reuse and repair throughout the program." -Joanne

THEME — EXTENDED PRODUCER RESPONSIBILITY & TEXTILE WASTE DIVERSION

This episode is the second in our two-part series dedicated to exploring some of the layers around Extended Producer Responsibility, or EPR, and Textile Waste Diversion.

In line with this conversation, I want to share about an upcoming event I'm collaborating on that's taking place in Los Angeles on June 10th. The Recovered Textile Exhibit is hosted by the City and County of Los Angeles, the California Product Stewardship Council, and the LA Cleantech Incubator. It's funded by CalRecycle, LA Sanitation, and others, and is in collaboration with Afflare.co and Fashion Is Outrageous.

There will be keynote speakers, discussions, and interactive activities that my cofounder Gabi and I helped develop, all with a focus on textile circularity and diverting textiles from the landfill. Additionally, the PRO (Producer Responsibility Organization), Landbell, will be present at the event.

If you're interested in attending, you can RSVP here. If you're able to join, I hope to see you there!

On the last show, we touched on some of the big picture ideas around EPR, and many of the questions around how we can make these circular systems practical.

On this week's episode, we're diving deep into the first-ever textile EPR bill in the U.S., SB 707: The Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024. While this isn't the first EPR policy to hit California or the nation, it is the first to cover TEXTILES.

I chat with someone who played an integral role in the legislative process for the bill – we dive into more on their open-collaborative approach and the importance of community-informed programs, we explore what the "most diverse board requirements" means within the context of SB 707, we learn about how feedback played a distinct role in the legislative process including some from the Or Foundation, and we discuss some of the definitions within the bill like REUSE and RECYCLE, with a focus on unpacking the definition of REPAIR, which is the first global definition that includes upcycling.

You will hear words and phrases like PRO, Needs Assessment, dynamic, legislative and regulatory process, and more. We do our best to help contextualize these definitions along the way, but if you have questions, let me know. I don't want this to feel like another policy conversation that leaves you in the dark – I want it to feel like you can feel welcomed into it, as this is a monumental bill for California and the sustainability and fashion industry as a whole.

One of my favorite things about this bill is that it's DYNAMIC, meaning it will change over time, and be rewritten every 5 years, based on key findings and learnings. So remember – your voice can play an important role in how this bill continues to evolve moving forward.

Also, to note – when this episode was recorded, our guest's new title had not yet been released publicly. Congrats to her, as she is now the Assistant Director – you'll actually hear her reveal it to us later on in the episode.

Quotes and links from our conversation:

• "If we're shopping in a different way 20 years from now, this program can adapt to that because the plan is rewritten every five years and has evidence-based decision-making provisions within the program." -Joanne on why SB 707 being a dynamic bill matters
• "I think the open collaborative approach has really been making sure everyone is using the same language and understands the same process so we can get the best engagement now." -Joanne on CPSC's approach to developing community-informed programs
• "We know repair costs more. We know that it's labor intensive, but we also know, you know, it's a greater GHG reduction and opportunity to again create new products from existing materials." -Joanne on the importance of incentivizing repair in the bill
• Recovered Textile Exhibit, June 10th (2026) in Los Angeles, CA
• California Product Stewardship Website
• CPSC Instagram

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In Episode 340, Kestrel welcomes Constanza Gomez, the cofounder and CEO of Sortile, to the show. Sortile is a company focused on empowering the textile recycling industry with technology that enables the identification, sorting and traceability of textiles.

"I was a much more hopeful person when I started this company and I've slowly become more of a skeptic. But that means I've leaned more heavily on the need for regulation versus people acting of their own free and good hearts. And so I think the opportunity is great. You can redefine and set real incentives to manage end of life better." -Constanza

THEME — EXTENDED PRODUCER RESPONSIBILITY & TEXTILE WASTE DIVERSION

EPR, or Extended Producer Responsibility, has come up on the show in the past in various capacities – we first talked about it in depth back on episode 275 with Liz Ricketts and Sammy Oteng from The Or Foundation when they were the first grant recipient of SHEIN's Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) Fund to help manage textile waste.

Just to get our minds on track for this chat – EPR or Extended Producer Responsibility initiatives or legislation ideally ensure that producers are required to assume the costs of collection, treating, and recycling of the end-of-life of their products.

We are currently in a very exciting time when it comes to EPR policy around the world – there are mandatory schemes in France, Sweden and the Netherlands, with others on the horizon … and where I'm based, here in California, the nation's first EPR policy for textiles, SB 707, passed in 2024, and is currently moving through the process of being implemented.

There are still SO MANY UNKNOWNS when it comes to how these policies are going to play out, but one thing that this week's guest sees as a benefit to this shifting legislation is – MORE ACCESS TO DATA.

As she shares, we just don't have enough data on the textile industry, and when we do, it's generally static data. When EPR comes into play, companies are going to HAVE to report and share specific data, which is going to bring in a much more consistent stream of data and over time, will lead to having more access to dynamic data as well.

This week's guest sees the direct link between research and data, and the need for more of both across the textile space to support more textile diversion – her own research led her to develop a table top textile scanner that helps determine the fiber composition of textiles, a massive support in the sorting process.

We talk about that, but also bigger questions around the opportunities and challenges she sees with EPR policy. I have to say – one thing this week's guest absolutely nailed in our conversations is – posing which questions that we should be asking right now with a big focus on – how do we make these systems practical?

• Sortile Website

• Follow Sortile on Instagram

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In Episode 339, Kestrel welcomes Beth Jensen, the Chief Impact Officer at Textile Exchange, to the show. Leading the organization's efforts to achieve beneficial climate and nature impacts, Beth oversees key functions at Textile Exchange including impact data and Life Cycle Assessment studies; impact tools and reporting mechanisms; reports and research; fundraising; and public affairs/policy.

"A big part of vulnerability is really admitting that you don't have all the answers. So in sustainability, in fashion, apparel, and textile space, this is just the way we have to operate. If you said you had all the answers, you wouldn't be taken seriously in this space … What you present as data might change the next time you present it because you have new and better information. You just have to be able to work in the gray and really take the best available information and make informed decisions based on that information." -Beth

THEME — DATA & FASHION: METHODS & ACCESS

Before we dive in, I want to take a moment to remind us all that FASHION IS POLITICAL.

Whenever a big politically-charged moment arises in the U.S., there is this narrative I see creeping around that expects fashion (brands, designers, creators, etc) to stay silent on quote unquote political issues – that fashion should stay in its so-called lane, detached from the world around it.

Here's the thing – FASHION IS POLITICAL. It always has been and it always will be. It doesn't exist in its own little vacuum. If you care about the fashion industry, and its impact on people and the planet, it's imminent to pay attention and engage in so-called politics, because it's entirely interconnected. Just to mention a few of these significant overlaps –

• The origins of the fashion industry in the United States – cotton grown by Black enslaved folks who were forced to immigrate – is political.
• The way clothing supply chains operate – predominantly spread across the Global South where our clothes are made by mostly women of color, who are often paid less than a living wage – is political.
• How certain materials permeate the fashion industry – fossil fuel-derived fibers AKA plastic. While other natural fibers were historically made illegal to grow AKA hemp – is political.
• The largest garment manufacturing city in the U.S. is Los Angeles, employing over 46,000 garment workers, most of whom are immigrant women from Mexico and Central America. L.A. is the wage theft capital of the U.S., with the average hourly wage being $5.85 (Labor Violations In The LA Garment Industry, Garment Worker Center, 2020)
• The institutionalized violent origins of ICE as well as the continued horrific acts they have made toward immigrants and nonimmigrants, fellow members of our communities – is political.
• As Faherty called it in their recent IG post – systemic inhumanity affects us all – our families, friends, colleagues, neighbors and communities, and that is political.

If you try to separate fashion from politics, clothing from humans, it's impossible. Clothing is made by people who are integral members of our communities and valued creatives along the supply chain. We must advocate for our fellow community members and the safety of our neighbors.

This is the second episode is a 2-part series dedicated to DATA IN FASHION. While many of you may already have an understanding of these elements, I think they are important to reframe and contextualize the following conversation.

The fashion industry and the so-called sustainable fashion space has a concerning history with data. The so-called stat – fashion is the 2nd largest polluter globally, second only to oil – unfortunately spread like wildfire before it was found to be unsubstantiated – in 2017, journalist Alden Wicker brought this to light in an article on Racked, and the NY Times did a deep dive into it the following year, calling it the "biggest fake news in fashion".

It's clear that the fashion industry has a massive impact on the earth and its inhabitants – it's an industry that not only thrives with models of overproduction and waste, it also prioritizes synthetic fossil fuel-derived materials like polyester. But, considering how long this inaccurate claim was utilized by the sustainability and fashion realm (to note, I still see it used today and often have to send articles to folks to remind them that it was never substantiated) – I guess, it becomes challenging for fashion to be taken seriously in the greater climate conversation.

Being that fashion is one of the most underregulated industries – I know this is shifting with more policy coming into play, but it's slow. This has further reduced the amount of data collected from brands, because it hasn't been required.

As you can tell, data, fashion and sustainability have a complex history. This week's guest understands this reality, and is pushing to shift the narrative through her work with Textile Exchange. But it's a tricky task, when for her, a lack of data shouldn't prevent us from taking action.

• "Without having data to underpin statements about something working toward reducing impact or creating beneficial impact, there's really nothing for those statements to stand on. Now the challenge there is making sure that we're striking the right balance of not letting perfect data get in the way of doing the work that we need to do to improve practices and create beneficial outcomes for the industry." -Beth
• Materials Market Report 2025 (Press Release)
• Paper on Ensuring Integrity in the Use of Life Cycle Assessment Data (Press Release)
• Industry Reports Library

• Life Cycle Inventory (LCI) Library

• Follow Textile Exchange on Instagram

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In Episode 338, Kestrel welcomes Miranda Green, an investigative journalist focused on politics and climate change, to the show. As the author of Atmos Magazine's weekly newsletter, The Understory, Miranda takes a weekly look behind the climate headlines to question how decisions are made, why they matter, and what they reveal about this moment.

"I think data to me is, they're facts. It's hard facts. It's looking at points that have been, you know, they're determined by scientists. They've been measured. They are proven points that then, I can use as building blocks to tell my story." -Miranda

THEME — DATA & FASHION: METHODS & ACCESS

This week, we're taking a bit of a pulled back lens, exploring data amidst the current volatile political landscape, with a focus on climate data. Also, to note, this episode was recorded in December of 2025 – as things are changing so rapidly in these times, I want to clarify that detail.

We are in this period of so-called misinformation and an era in which DATA MANIPULATION, as this week's guest articulates, is very real. But it's not only the way the data is being adjusted to fit the user's agenda - there's also the reality that scientifically-backed data is disappearing.

The article that led me to this week's guest is called – "Big Gov Wants To Take Away Your Climate Data" (link below) and in it, she talks about how she always anticipated when the EPA would release its annual tally of corporate polluters and the fines they would have to pay when the pollution was too high. BUT, under Trump, these corporations are no longer required to report their emissions. And that means we don't know what the baseline is for these big polluters, moving forward – we no longer have the comparison data. This is just one blip in the labyrinth of climate and emissions data that this administration is finding ways to bury or delete.

For this week's guest, an investigative journalist, the erasure of climate and emissions data by the Trump administration is making it harder to do her job, and to write stories about what's truly going on.

On the show, we regularly talk a lot about the desire to understand where we're at when it comes to data in the fashion space, in order to determine the best way to move forward. With fashion being one of the most underregulated industries, having a complicated history with so-called data, and with big fashion players being some of the most notorious polluters out there, this reality of disappearing data is highly concerning.

But people are fighting back – scientists and advocacy groups are finding ways to monitor the situation and challenge the Administration's actions. And this week's guest has ideas as well of how we can all get more engaged in ways to resist the continued erasure of significant climate data.

• "Big Gov Wants To Take Away Your Climate Data", article by Miranda on Atmos
• "I think out of sight out of mind is essentially what we are seeing happen right now and it does make it hard to determine what the truth is because what it ends up becoming is essentially, as you just described, is a marketing battle." -Miranda (23:11)

• Follow Miranda on Instagram

• Follow Atmos on Instagram

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In Episode 337, Kestrel welcomes Gail Gallie, the founder of THE NAT, to the show. A new convening force for Nature, THE NAT is primarily focused on galvanizing the private capital needed to close the nature finance gap; they just held their inaugural NAT Gala "Night For Nature" in September 2025. From working in advertising to co-leading the creation of the UN Global Goals Campaign, Gail has an extensive background in global advocacy and campaigning.

"I was pretty blown away that you could quantify the amount of money that was needed to fix where we are now to where we need to get to in order to be in harmony and sustainably working with the planet's resources…and then she said the number and it was $711 billion a year. And I was like, OMG that's enormous…And at the same time, this guy next to me lent in and he said, did she just say the nature finance gap is $711 billion? I said, yeah, I had like sad face, like boo, thumbs down, it's loads. And he said, no, he said, that's like not that bad." -Gail

THEME — BRINGING NATURE BACK INTO THE FASHION FOLD

In our last episode, I talked about how this 2-part episode theme – BRINGING NATURE BACK INTO THE FASHION FOLD – was inspired by Carry Somers' new book The Nature Of Fashion and the importance of reminding ourselves that we are Nature and fashion has the potential to be more of a reflection of Nature.

This episode approaches this narrative from an ENTIRELY different lens – one that involves finance, luxury and creating a spectacle – which is why I really love the juxtaposition of these two conversations.

If you hadn't heard yet, there is an actual number that has been calculated – an amount of money that if invested annually into nature-positive projects – could halt biodiversity loss and support a reset for the earth, enhancing life on this planet for years to come.

It's called the nature finance gap – and according to estimates in 2020, the number was $711 billion dollars. If you're like me, hearing that number made me sink deeper into my seat, feeling the overwhelm wash even further over me. But turns out, for folks working in the investment space, this number's not actually that astronomical. It's somewhat accessible — according to this week's guest, if just 2% of global capital is redirected into nature, we could close that gap.

So how does that happen? Considering that about 80% of current conservation funding comes from public sources like governments and multilateral institutions – that leaves a ton of space to galvanize private capital to bridge that gap.

This week's guest has set out to make this happen by creating a luxurious spectacle in celebration of Nature. Anyone ever heard of The Met Gala? Right. Of course you have.

If you work in sustainability, have you ever felt annoyed that everyone is paying attention to this one over-the-top night? And have you felt irritated that so much money is being funneled into the tickets and often very unsustainable attire for the evening?

You're not alone. Yet so many of us still pay attention to it all. It's a spectacle and we are drawn to it.

This week's guest, Gail, generally shared similar feelings. But a couple of Met Galas back, she shifted her perspective and decided to thinking about copying the concept, instead of fighting it — creating a sparkly night focused on generating more funding for Nature – to push toward closing that Nature Finance Gap.

Maybe if we feel the power and intrigue of particular cultural moments, we should question how to replicate and reimagine them — instead of finding ourselves caught in the hamster wheel of complaining about the negative impact they may leave behind.

• Global Biodiversity Framework
• THE NAT's Website
• THE NAT on LinkedIn
• Gail Gallie on LinkedIn
• Get in touch with THE NAT
• Follow THE NAT on Instagram

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In Episode 336, Kestrel welcomes author and visionary changemaker, Carry Somers, to the show. Co-founder of Fashion Revolution, the world's largest fashion activism movement, and the author of a new book – The Nature Of Fashion: A Botanical Story Of Our Material Lives, Carry has worked across the fashion space in various capacities, advocating for a shift towards transparency, fairness, and sustainability in supply chains.

"Textiles reflect our connection with the natural world, but they're not just about utility. They're definitely about beauty as well. But they're also really an echo of our disconnection from it. And I realized during my research that that rift actually started far earlier than I'd ever realized." -Carry

THEME —BRINGING NATURE BACK INTO THE FASHION FOLD

There are various theories on what has led to the so-called disconnect between humans and nature – not only physically, but also ideologically. Amidst the fashion conversation, it's not necessarily prioritized. We may hear environmental advocates pushing for an expansion in the narrative to ensure humans are included as an integral part of nature. Or we may hear discussions about why we must reconnect with nature in order to better care for it.

As this week's guest, Carry, teaches us – textiles are an integral part of this story – and they can tell us far more about our relationship with nature than we ever imagined – from both a historical and future-oriented lens.

This two-part focus of the podcast is inspired by her new book – The Nature Of Fashion: A Botanical Story Of Our Materials Lives. The theme is: BRINGING NATURE BACK INTO THE FASHION FOLD.

If you know me, you know I get very nerdy about words and their layered meanings. Which is why reading this segment from Carry's pulled me deep into the pages that followed –

"The Latin verb texere, meaning to weave or construct with elaborate care, reminds us that both textiles and texts stem from acts of creation. Textiles and texts, born of the same etymological thread, are entwined with our histories, our cultures, our lives."

The beautiful thing is that these overlaps between textiles and texts – materials and stories – goes far beyond just Latin. As our guest shares, they both evoke texture and encode memory, and through her research, she discovered that across various cultures around the world, there are parallels in both language and meanings, connecting textiles with texts.

So, it becomes more and more clear that textiles have something significant to teach us about our collective history and future. At the same time, as my guest reminds us, the inequity of the archives became glaringly obvious the deeper she got into her research.

So, in her book, data collection meant something more expansive than what we might be used to. For her, it was rooted in research, while also welcoming imagination and prioritizing oral traditions.

As she poses in the book – "what if the story of humanity could be told through a single thread?"

• "Balance is not a place to reach, but a rhythm to feel." -Carry in her book
• Buy The Nature Of Fashion
• Carry's Website
• Follow Carry on Instagram

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In Episode 335, Kestrel welcomes Lisa Kibutu, the founder of Regenerative Fashion Collaborative Exchange (REFACE) and Regenerative Textile Development Institute (RTDI), to the show. A tech-led social enterprise, REFACE was created to holistically address the negative impact of the global fashion industry on climate change, biodiversity, and the environment in Africa. With RTDI, she is building a pioneering research and development institution that leverages blockchain technology, zero waste operations, and regenerative agriculture to transform agricultural waste from Indigenous grain crops into high-quality textile yarn.

"You're standing in this space, the gap between what society is expecting of you and what your soul insists on you to become. And it influences all my work and my obligation to the sacrifice of our ancestors, the sacrifice that they made to the colonizers, which is why we are where we are today. I sit on ancestral intelligence, which is the blueprint and the foundation of everything that I do. A little bit more than a blueprint to me – I am actually just going to claim my inheritance from the ancestors. And that claiming of the inheritance has become my purpose." -Lisa

THEME —WHEN REGENERATIVE MEANS SO MUCH MORE THAN JUST A BUZZWORD

The following is a very important statistic that is rarely centered in the so-called sustainability and fashion conversation — as reported by the UNEP, Africa contributes less than 3% of global greenhouse gas emissions. At the same time, the continent has been disproportionately impacted by the changing climate.

With this in mind, in conjunction with her knowledge in fashion, design, anthropology and regenerative agriculture – Lisa founded a powerful two-prong approach to not only address the negative impact of the global fashion industry on climate change, biodiversity, and the environment in Africa, but also – to strategically research and develop innovative textiles made from the waste of Indigenous crops, and to maintain ownership of these technologies within the continent.

Africa has a unique potential at this point in our history – especially when it comes to regenerative agriculture, with 80% of all the food production in Africa being run by smallholder farmers.

The opportunities across Africa are expansive. And as Lisa reminds us, it's not about empowerment. It's about following the blueprint from AI – that is ancestral intelligence – and focusing on enriching communities across the continent.

• "You're right. Fashion is cultural. Cause you've moved from the basic need of covering according to weather patterns, and then you advance to the space where – you need to appeal to aesthetics. That's the next level. But aesthetics are particular to what you find in your environment and then it becomes artistic expression, personal expression of yourself. And I think those are the pieces now, when we talk about fast fashion – those are the pieces that are missing." -Lisa
• RTDI Website
• Follow REFACE on Instagram

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In Episode 334, Kestrel welcomes Emily Mikhaiel, the cofounder and creative director of Nazeerah, to the show. A clothing brand inspired by the legacy of her grandmother, Nazeerah supports organic and regenerative farming practices to honor Egyptian cotton, and produces locally in Egypt to maintain direct relationships with their suppliers and reduce their carbon footprint.

“There really wasn't waste while my father was growing up. Everything was either composted or if it was metal, it was recycled or reused or repurposed. If a garment was no longer wearable, they'd cut it up into strips and weave carpets out of it. And once the carpet was no longer usable, they'd cut it up again and compost it. So using that knowledge and thinking, you know, as a society, we've existed without plastics for millennia. Why can't we return to that and draw inspiration from that in our design?” -Emily

SEPTEMBER THEME —WHEN REGENERATIVE MEANS SO MUCH MORE THAN JUST A BUZZWORD

This week’s episode is focused largely on a regenerative approach to making clothes – one that includes thinking about the end of life of the garment at the design process, where organic cotton farming is centered, not only to help maintain soil health, but also to enhance biodiversity and restore carbon to the soil, and where local production is prioritized.

Without sounding like a broken record, it’s important to acknowledge how this word – regenerative – has undoubtedly become another buzzword that’s taken fashion by storm. We’ve seen countless brands integrate it into their marketing messaging, and it’s becoming more and more utilized across the space as the “new way” to talk about building a more sustainable brand.

HOWEVER – it’s very key to note that regenerative is by no means a new concept. As we’ve touched on in past episodes, it is rooted in Indigenous knowledge, in traditional ways of farming and ancestral ways of growing plants and being in conversion with the Earth.

This week’s guest has deep family ties to cotton and garment making in Egypt. As she shares with us, Egypt has a unique history connected to cotton farming that for generations, was intrinsically linked to the natural rhythms of the Nile River.

Through her brand, she is not only honoring her ancestors’ connection to the land, but also supporting farmers who are reclaiming what regenerative cotton farming can look like today.

• Nazeerah Website
• Follow Nazeerah on Instagram

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In Episode 333, Kestrel welcomes Cate Havstad-Casad, a designer, entrepreneur, and first-generation regenerative rancher, to the show. Cate’s work as a designer and land steward has evolved a great deal since she founded Havstad Hat Company in 2014. Today she manages Casad Family Farms with her husband, while building Range Revolution, a luxury leather goods brand focused on using 100% American, regeneratively sourced hides.

“I love the idea of having things forever. I love the idea of a great leather boot being resoled again and again. My work in hats, I'm like the anti-growth capitalist. I'm like, you should have two hats, maybe three and that should be it for your whole life and you send it back to me and I will re-block it and clean it up and reshape it for you. That is the world of craft that I come from and so I bring that ethos to this work with Range Revolution and leathers.” -Cate

AUGUST THEME — WELCOMING THE IN-BETWEENS IN LIFE, SUSTAINABILITY & FASHION

This week’s episode touches on a discourse that often fuels a lot of really intense reactions. I remember moderating a panel discussion about it in Berlin during fashion week that got very heated, and even recently, I hosted an Earth Day event in San Francisco, where the conversation suddenly got intense when this topic arose.

If you guessed it – I’m talking about the oh-so-familiar LEATHER debate.

There’s a recurring dispute in the sustainability and fashion space that pins animal-based leather against vegan leather. It’s often very this vs that oriented, and focuses on claiming which is quote unquote more “sustainable” than the other.

A lot of the time, things get heated because leather is intrinsically linked to peoples’ belief systems and values, which can leave very little space for the in-between. And I totally get where that passion stems from.

At the same time, if you’ve been listening to Conscious Chatter over the years, you know there are no simple answers when it comes to the complexities of making products. And I don’t think there is ever only one solution – we need to discover multifaceted approaches, considering the challenges we face with the climate crisis.

From her lens as a craftsperson, designer and regenerative rancher, this week’s guest is dedicated to rethinking waste in the animal agriculture space. One significant stat we learn from her is that – almost 5 million hides are wasted or thrown away annually in the United States alone. *source: Agriculture Utilization Research Institute

With a mindset that “the most radical fibers are the ones that already exist” – she is pushing to disrupt the leather industry. For her, it’s all about centering traceability, rethinking waste, and expanding the meaning of regenerative to not only include the land health, but also the health and wellbeing of the surrounding community.

• “We don’t have regenerative outcomes on land if the people working within the systems. whether it be the land stewards or the people within the community that support those land stewards — if the community dynamics, if the economic dynamics are not also regenerative.” (15:40)
• Range Revolution Website
• Follow Cate on Instagram
• Follow Range Revolution on Instagram

This week’s episode is brought to you by Range Revolution. Enjoy 15% off at RangeRevolution.com with code CHATTER.

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Episode 332 features Kestrel (just me!) in the second-ever solo episode of the show. With a focus on Kestrel’s reemergence after having her second child, she shares some of the things that have been on her mind during this postpartum era, the power of sorting, what “release” has meant to her over this last year, what she’s shedding and what’s she’s embracing. It’s very personal, raw and vulnerable — one of the ways Kestrel always loves to connect with you all.

“Maybe this whole episode is sounding disconnected from what you generally hear in the sustainability and fashion realm. But – if you’ve been around for a while, you know that I am not exactly the voice of the typical narrative. I like to push beyond binaries. I want to explore the nuances. I don’t want to put people, things or ideas into boxes. These in-betweens are where SO MUCH can thrive, if we let it and give it space to breathe.” -Kestrel

August THEME — WELCOMING THE IN-BETWEENS IN LIFE, SUSTAINABILITY & FASHION

When I started the show back in 2016, I never thought I would be into doing solo episodes. My mind was clear that I wanted to welcome guests onto the show and to really focus on learning, listening and sharing multifaceted ideas from solutionists working at the intersections of fashion and sustainability.

And that general intention hasn’t wavered. BUT surprisingly, in moments of change or transition, I have felt pulled to connect with you all on my own – just me and my thoughts. It gives me the chance to connect in a really honest, personal, and vulnerable way. It’s maybe weird, but I almost feel like having a podcast – a space to dump my thoughts, musings, learnings, challenges – it’s really cathartic, and at times, healing as well.

Throughout this brief episode, you’ll hear:

• Welcoming a new baby

• Honoring the mothers in Gaza

• Postpartum shifts — the importance of sorting, releasing, and closing doors

• Creating space — what prioritizing looks like with two kids

• Rooting more deeply into my truth — a new endeavor & a book project

Links & quotes from the show:

• Gaza on my mind — IG post by Evelyn Escobar (@evelynnworld) that Kestrel highlights
• Organizations and resources to support mothers and families in Gaza — The Sameer Project Healing Our Homeland Free Kitchen Gaza We Feed Gaza Heal Palestine Medical Aid For Palestine USA For UNFP Anera
• “THANK YOU FOR BEING HERE. The fact that we can have this space to share openly about so many things that make us human is an absolute blessing. When I initially started this show to simply talk about fashion and sustainability – I never imagined I would learn so much about who I am and who I want to be in the world. Turns out – sustainability starts with each one of us. Looking in the mirror and getting clear about ourselves, tuning into our communities that surround us, leading with curiosity and care, and above all – thoughtfully questioning everything along the way.”
• Follow Kestrel (Conscious Chatter) on Instagram

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In Episode 331, Kestrel welcomes Ben Mead, the Managing Director of Hohenstein Institute America, to the show. In Ben’s role, he serves as the company’s liaison with government agencies, industry collaborations and trade associations, and he also oversees OEKO-TEX® responsibilities for the U.S.

“You can’t make any real good decision around chemistry or you know how a product is made, if you don’t know who’s making it and what’s going into it.” -Ben

MAY THEME — HOW TOXIC CHEMICALS FROM OUR CLOTHES MOVE AROUND THE WORLD

It is a tumultuous time when it comes to policy, and policy that is specifically impacting global supply chains. Not only immediately, when we think about tariffs and the unclear, yet very real, impacts they will have on fashion businesses, but also legislation across the world that has either passed or is on the table, and requires fashion companies to be more tuned in to the actual impacts of their supply chains.

These bills have without a doubt brought fear and stress to many fashion brands, because if they haven’t been mapping their supply chains previously, it’s going to prove very difficult for them to comply with some of these new requirements.

What should brands know about these changing regulations? How can they navigate the shifting landscape, and what should they be doing now? As this week’s guest reminds us, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer, but there are things brands can be doing to rethink their supply chains and expand their approach to sustainability.

• OEKO-TEX® Website
• OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN
• OEKO-TEX® Label Check
• Follow OEKO-TEX® on Instagram

This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX®. For over 30 years, OEKO-TEX® has set global standards for chemical safety, responsible production, and supply chain transparency, ensuring that textiles and leather products are tested for harmful substances. Learn more about their MADE IN GREEN label here >

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This episode is a little different than what you’re used to, as it’s a special swap with Commons and their Second Nature podcast. It’s an amazing listen and I’m stoked to share it with y’all!

“I think this is inspiring people to move away from being passive consumers to instead becoming stewards of their belongings and have that sense of responsibility and it goes beyond this individual action…For us, democratizing repair isn't just a luxury or a trend, it's something essential to creating this future where sustainability and equity guide the way forward.” -Sumaq Alvarado del Aguida, Suay Sew Shop

This month’s theme is – HOW TOXIC CHEMICALS FROM OUR CLOTHES MOVE AROUND THE WORLD.

This episode by Second Nature gets into the layers around donated clothing, how BIG of an issue it is, and how global it truly is. From talking about the recent devastating fire in Kantamanto Market in Accra, Ghana, to the onslaught of clothing donations that overwhelmed facilities in Los Angeles after the wildfires in January this year, this episode explores some interested parallels and disturbing realities around the low quality of so much of the clothing that ends up in the donation cycle, as well as the harmful impacts that toxins within those clothes can have on the communities where they land.

You’ll hear from Sumaq of Suay Sew Shop in LA on the excess of crappy clothing that was donated to them amidst the wildfires, and how they are working to get creative with those textiles. One thing I want to highlight is how Sumaq shares that we need to become “stewards of our belongings”.

Passing it over to Katelan, the host of Second Nature, who will share more with you in this special episode!

• Second Nature Episode

• Follow Second Nature on Instagram

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In Episode 329, Kestrel welcomes Jennine Jacob, a personal stylist and Instagram phenom, to the show. You may know Jennine from viral videos that explore the many layers of nuance connected to the power of finding your own style.

“Anytime I see people quote unquote dressing for their body type, those outfits that look good, they can all be explained through style principles. The rule of thirds, contrast, proportion, texture, color theory. So why do we have to attach a value to a person's body shape when that's not even necessary? I really want to call into question why we use certain language because there's a lot of dismissal of visual language not just in fashion but also in the arts and architecture, and in the spaces that we move that have tremendous impact in how we navigate the world.” -Jennine

MARCH THEME — PERSONAL STYLE IS SO MUCH MORE THAN VANITY

This month, we’re shifting the narrative a bit toward the conversation around style. I recently did a post on Instagram about why I post daily outfits and how it’s not about vanity, and instead – it’s about storytelling, sustainability and branding. It resonated so much with folks and made me feel optimistic amidst a time that can be pretty gloomy lately.

I talked about the power of knowing the stories connected to your garments and how that storytelling can come through in the way you wear them. I talked about how when you have intimate connections with your garments, you tend to take care of them so they last longer. I talked about how identifying your personal style is a key part of building your brand, and honing in on the colors you consistently wear can play into determining or realizing your aligned visual identity.

I even mentioned the whole “fashion is frivolous” annoying narrative, and how it’s totally ridiculous considering how much your clothing choices do actually truly matter. Turns out, that’s one of the many topics we crack open with this week’s guest.

• “Is The Internet Messing With Your Style?”, IG reel Kestrel mentions
• “The Power Dynamics Of Comfort”, IG reel Kestrel mentions
• “Quiet Luxury Helps The Oligarchy”, IG reel Jennine mentions
• “Focus in on not just how you want to look, but what you want to say with your style, and why you want to say it.” (40:06) -Jennine
• Jennine’s Website
• Follow Jennine on Instagram

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In Episode 328, Kestrel welcomes Dana Zhaxylykova, an environmental scientist & microplastics researcher, to the show. Originally from Kazakhstan, Dana is currently based in Germany — through her Instagram platform, she shares practical and actionable tips about microplastics through a scientific lens.

“As a scientist, I want to assure you that every little action in avoiding plastic, it can have an impact. And as scientists and as a scientific community, we expect people, not only the governments and corporations (they have a huge responsibility, of course), but we as people, we also can have an impact as individuals, we can help these problems to get solved faster.”-Dana

This month, we’re focusing on diverse ways to combat fast fashion. I don’t know about you, but whenever I think of fast fashion, my brain automatically goes to issues around MICROPLASTICS.

Considering that over 60% of global fiber production is synthetic materials – derived from fossil fuels – it’s hard not to make that connection, especially given some of the intimate experiences I’ve had watching scientists from 5 Gyres literally collect microplastics from the water and air around us, and hear them talk about how so many of the microplastics they collect have come from fabric and clothing.

As this week’s guest highlights, with nylon, polyester and acrylic fabrics flooding the fast fashion market, these fibers are actually releasing microplastics in every stage of the process – from production, to wearing the garments, to washing and drying them. Basically, there are microplastics being shed into our environment from every single stage of a fast fashion garment’s lifecycle.

That feels overwhelming, I know, but I love how this week’s guest really puts things into perspective, not only from a scientific lens, but also from a practical hands-on point of view, offering us suggestions on the things we can actually control, when it comes to microplastics in our lives.

• “Seasonal variation and removal of microplastics in a central Asian urban wastewater treatment plant”, Dana’s research paper
• “Effect of microplastics deposition on human lung airways: A review with computational benefits and challenges”, paper Dana mentions
• “Environmental exposure to microplastics: an overview on possible human health effects”, paper Dana mentions
• “Effects of microplastic exposure on human digestive, reproductive, and respiratory health: a rapid systemic review”, paper Dana mentions
• “Polystyrene microplastics exacerbate systemic inflammation in high-fat diet-induced obesity”, paper Dana mentions

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In Episode 327, Kestrel welcomes Sanchali Pal, founder and CEO of Commons, an app that rewards you for living and spending sustainably. On Commons’ app, you can get rewarded for shopping sustainable brands and for taking climate actions like thrifting, taking public transportation or eating plant-based.

“When people think about the actions they can take that are sustainable, the most obvious ones are things like flying less or recycling or eating more plant-based. People don't always think about their clothing habits, but I think that's really changing with the conversation around fast fashion. I mean, the fashion industry has a greater environmental impact than the airline industry. It's like two to three times as much, which is pretty crazy. And so it is really exciting to start to see that conversation happen and start to think through what part we can all play in shifting that industry together.” -Sanchali

FEBRUARY THEME — DIVERSE WAYS TO COMBAT FAST FASHION

This week’s episode is brought to you in collaboration with Commons. As a cohost of their Anti Fast Fashion Challenge, I’m stoked to share more about how you can get involved to boycott (in many different ways) harmful fast fashion brands this month.

While it can be challenging to fathom, especially being so deep within the sustainability and fashion conversation, fast fashion is booming. From the H&Ms and Zaras, to the more recent addition of ultra fast fashion brands like Shein and Temu, our culture is addicted to fast fashion. From the cheap prices to the convenience factor to the instant gratification, the allure of fast fashion is real.

But as many of you know, buying fast fashion comes with an intense environmental and human impact.

Fast fashion aligns itself with disposability and waste, boasting crazy low prices. The materials are predominantly synthetic and often lose their shape after a couple washes. The synthetic materials shed loads of microplastics into the environment. Garment workers face exploitation and non-livable wages. All the while, social media and marketing continue to drive us to think we need another new piece of clothing to stay relevant.

It’s a lot. And that’s why I am so excited for this conversation – and to be cohosting this month’s Anti Fast Fashion Challenge. A way for us all to collectively come together to challenge that intense urge to buy another cheap item, and instead – not shop, mend something, get something tailored, shop secondhand, or invest in a brand that centers sustainability.

• “Our spending is the best data source we have on our emissions.” (14:26) -Sanchali
• “It Starts At Home?” — research Sanchali mentions on household spending
• Join The Anti Fast Fashion Challenge
• Commons Sustainable Spending Tool / Brand Ratings
• How Commons Rates Brands
• Commons Website
• Listen To The Second Nature Podcast
• Follow Commons on Instagram

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In Episode 326, Kestrel welcomes Anna Bario, the cofounder of Bario Neal, to the show. Bario Neal creates stunning jewelry while being committed to respecting human rights and environmental sustainability. Anna cofounded the brand alongside Page Neal, in 2008, with an interest in bringing sustainability into the discourse surrounding creativity, fine jewelry and craft. An exceptional designer and also a specialist in responsible gold and gemstone sourcing, Anna’s work in sustainable initiatives and social impacts defines the framework for Bario Neal’s ethical jewelry roadmap.

“I think [for] jewelry especially, the investment question becomes entangled with presentation … we also see that culturally come through jewelry trends. Just like in fashion, pant legs get shifted and there’s so many ways we could interpret that as a reflection of the culture. And in jewelry, after the 2008 recession, jewelry got really small. Part of that was because of what people could afford, but also it was sort of like socially, what do we want to present?”-Anna

JANUARY THEME — EXPLORING THE NUANCE AROUND INVESTMENT PIECES

This episode is part of a partnership with Bario Neal. One of the pieces included in this collab was a redesign of my wedding and engagement rings. If you’re wondering why I would redesign my wedding rings? They felt a little too traditional for my aesthetic, especially as I’ve matured, and also – the prong setting of the lab grown diamond just wasn’t practical – it was always getting caught doing all the things connected to mom life.

In this episode, we not only get an intimate look behind the scenes of what building an ethical jewelry roadmap means to Bario Neal, we also dive deeper into this month’s theme of investment pieces.

One thing Anna brings up that is such an important and often left out layer of this discussion is how “investment” in the jewelry space can easily become entangled with the performance of economic resources and privilege. In jewelry, and other areas of fashion as well, this can mean the designs showcase a blatant reflection of the economic realities around us at any given time. For example, when the economy isn’t doing well, often, jewelry trends will reflect that in favoring smaller stones and more quote unquote modest styles. And even if folks have the economic means to choose something with a higher price point or bigger stones, they may choose not to, based on what they feel comfortable presenting to the world in that moment of time. We unpack this and more in this special jewelry-focused episode.

• Turning To Stone, book by geologist Marcia Bjornerud that Anna mentions
• Mercury Free Mining Website
• Ethical Methalsmiths Website
• Bario Neal’s Website
• Follow Bario Neal On Instagram

This week’s episode is brought to you in partnership with Bario Neal, a jewelry industry leader in ethical sourcing and progressive manufacturing.

GET 15% OFF PERSONALIZED JEWELRY WITH CODE CONSCIOUSCHATTER15 AT BARIO-NEAL.COM

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In Episode 325, Kestrel welcomes Emily Fenves, the founder of lander line - a platform she created in September 2021 - after feeling burnt out with her own consumption habits. As a regular shopper, Emily found herself spending an exhaustive amount of time browsing, buying, returning, and purging. She embarked on a journey to learn more about the “why” behind her overconsumption, and decided to help others do the same.

“I think a lot of people assume that investment pieces mean luxury. For me, specifically, I always think about – can I pass this down to my daughter? Investment pieces can be secondhand, too. Whether I’m shopping new or secondhand, I’m always asking myself that question – is this something I can pass down to her?” -Emily

JANUARY THEME — EXPLORING THE NUANCE AROUND INVESTMENT PIECES

This month, we’re going all in on – investment pieces. What does that really mean? Well, that’s one of the aspects we unpack. But if you google around and start diving into the discussion online, you’ll find a lot of people talking about things like: LONGEVITY, JUSTIFYING HIGHER TICKET ITEMS, HIGHER QUALITY, HIGHER COSTS, and EVERGREEN STYLES.

We touch on cost per wear, the idea of fewer better things, and recommendations when you’re searching for investment pieces.

It’s also personal – so remember to take that into account as you listen to this week’s guest. What you deem an investment piece may not necessarily be what someone else identifies as an investment piece – and to me, that’s some of the fun of it.

Speaking of this week’s guest – she self identifies as a former overconsumer-turned-fair-fashion-advocate who loves secondhand and influencing others to quit fast fashion.

• RealReal’s 2024 Resale Report

• lander line’s Substack

• Follow Emily on Instagram

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Episode 324, Kestrel welcomes Camille Forde, a mother and entrepreneur working at the intersection of business, sustainability, and community-centered solutions, to the show. With over a decade of experience, Camille has led corporate responsibility efforts at top professional services firms, earned an MBA from UC Berkeley with a focus on sustainable business, and spearheaded seller and brand partnerships at one of the largest fashion resale platforms. As a mother of two, Camille is deeply committed to building a more equitable and sustainable future that prioritizes community care.

“Vulnerability, at least for me, it’s a practice. It’s not: you’re vulnerable once, and then you’re done. I’ve had to make being vulnerable a regular practice that I chase even though I don’t want to all the time.” -Camille

OCTOBER THEME — MAYBE VULNERABILITY IS WHAT FASHION REALLY NEEDS

Last week, I got vulnerable. I shared a lot about my personal story over the last year – the challenges I’ve faced, personally with my health, professionally, financially, with continuing to push an independent media platform forward – I’d say I shared a lot in a short amount of time.

It blew me away to see the response – so many folks reached out, shared their personal challenges, and were vulnerable with me about things they’ve faced. I don’t know – it felt like it opened a bit of a portal to somewhere new. To a more connected realm, where we could actually be honest with each other. A place where we could not only talk about transparency being important in supply chains and messaging, but also in our personal lives and realities.

It felt big. And I want to thank you for allowing that real emotion in, and sharing your own vulnerabilities – because as this week’s guest reminds us, so often what we receive with vulnerability is GROWTH (not in production volume, but in ourselves).

This episode is really about a lot of challenges I’ve faced, mental struggles I have grappled with, and questions I’ve asked myself while working at the intersections of caring for people and the planet, and caring for my own child.

When I was thinking about this episode idea as a way to build on this vulnerability discussion, one mom stood out immediately. I thought – I want to talk to Camille about this - it’s who I want to hear from, who I want to learn from, and I just felt like she would have a lot of valuable insight into these crossovers.

Turns out, Camille went beyond. This episode is about sustainability, but not your typical approach to that conversation. It’s about caring for yourself, for your family, for your community, while building things that center care.

• “The perfectionism and shaming that happens both in motherhood or just parenthood and the sustainability space — it’s just beyond.” -Camille
• “The reality is we’re not going to be perfect at any of it, but you know, if you’re not careful, there’s so much shame that can enter the conversation and really slow you down.” -Camille
• Camille’s Website
• Follow Camille on Instagram

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Episode 323 features Kestrel (just me!) in the first-ever solo episode of the show. With a primary focus on vulnerability, Kestrel shares some of the rollercoasters she has faced personally over the last year (from health to finances), why she and Nat are parting ways when it comes to regularly hosting the show, the true costs of producing a podcast, as well as a question on whether performative vulnerability is what we are seeing too often from the industry.

“To all of you interested in sustainable fashion or those of you who work in the industry - I want to ask you a question: are you ok!?”-Kestrel

OCTOBER THEME — MAYBE VULNERABILITY IS WHAT FASHION REALLY NEEDS

As you can see, Nat is not here. It’s super bittersweet, as doing the show hand-in-hand with someone I love, a best friend, and someone I admire deeply was truly magical. At the same time, realities happen, things shift, and sometimes what you anticipate doesn’t actually work out in the end.

Being honest about the journey is, and always has been important to me.

Nat is amazing as many of you already know. Moving forward, she won’t be cohosting with me on a regular basis, but she will jump back in as a guest or cohost on the show on and off down the line.

I know this might be confusing for you since there have been a lot of shifts on and off throughout the year. First of all, thanks for sticking around, for caring deeply about the show, and believing in the potential power of change in the fashion space.

This episode is all about vulnerability — I hope you can feel my hope to tear down some of the curtains that often separate us for connecting on a deeper level.

Here’s what you'll hear from me:

• A bit about my person health stuff I’ve gone through over the last year
• Why it wasn’t possible for Nat and I to continue co-hosting together - hint, hint: independent media is hard
• A little insider info on what it costs to run a podcast
• Some musings on whether it’s possible for the sustainable fashion / fashion realm as a whole to get vulnerable and what that could look like

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Episode 322 features Nelson ZêPequéno, a Ghanaian-American Artist and the founder of Black Men With Gardens and Sustain Creative, alongside Cayetano Talavera, a fiber artist, zero waste fashion designer, and the creative force behind HECHO BY CAYE.

Through ‘Black Men With Gardens’, a digital and print publication, Nelson spotlights the connection Black and Brown communities cultivate with nature through agriculture and the arts. He further exploring cultural identity and environmental stewardship through his Los Angeles-based studio 'Sustain Creative', his current body of works offer a fresh perspective on sustainable contemporary design.

Based in Los Angeles, Cayetano transforms foraged plants, homegrown flowers, insects, and even food waste into natural dyes, for his designs in the cocina de su mamá. His journey into the world of sustainable design was shaped by his humble upbringing, where he discovered the importance of resourcefulness and waste reduction.

“Creativity is a way of looking at life differently, and by stepping outside of the way that we’re seeing life or our own perceptions and experimenting, we’re able to open up those new neural pathways and to reach these new places in life. For me specifically, I like to think that creativity is actually the solution not only to the mental health crisis that we’re all dealing with, but to actually the sustainability challenges that we’re facing. We need to embolden creativity in our culture and our communities so that people can look at the challenges that we have and come up with different ways of approaching it. We can’t essentially just fix the problems that we face now with the same thought processes that led us here, and the only way to get outside of that actually is to be creative.” -Nelson

“The rhythmic movement that comes from making a craft — I find it to be very therapeutic. Whether it’s stirring a dye pot, painting strokes, I think also just the physical aspect that goes into being creative plays a role in ... it’s almost like you get so into what you’re creating that you kind of escape from your worries and anxieties for a bit. Once I start working, I totally forget whatever is going on around me, even if it’s for a split second. I am always encouraging people to just be creative; and don’t let the insecurities take over. I host natural dye workshops and a lot of adults tend to be like ‘but this isn’t for me’; ‘my tie dye bandana is going to come out super ugly’. And I’m like "‘no, everyone’s piece ends up looking really good and unique in their own way’. And so I think there’s fear that comes from being creative and I think people need to get over that hurdle first.” - Cayetano

MAY THEME — CONNECTING WITH NATURE TO UNVEIL WAYS TO REIMAGINE FUTURES

Narratives today often separate humans from nature – think of statements like “we need to protect nature” as if we aren’t a part of nature. But we are. Even though we often live and spend a lot of time inside buildings somewhat “separated” from nature, we are still intrinsically linked and woven into the natural world around us.

As we have learned through so many of our guests this season, being connected to the world around us is not something new – it’s something that has been cultivated by Black and Brown Indigenous communities across the world through culture and tradition and a reverence for the ecosystems that we as humans are a part of.

This week’s guests both interact with nature through their unique creative avenues – in very different yet overlapping ways. One works more directly with fashion through sewing and natural dyes, and the other not so directly with fashion but rather with plants and repurposing. The myriad of ideas they share remind us of the many things we can learn from nature (when we slow down enough to listen).

What can fashion learn from nature to reimagine a better today and a more thoughtful tomorrow?

Fashion folks, nature is calling, and it’s time we tune in …

Links from the conversation:

• Hecho By Caye Website
• Sustaining Creative Website
• Fast Fashion AD on SNL that Kestrel mentions
• Follow Nelson on Instagram
• Follow Black Men With Gardens on Instagram
• Follow Cayetano on Instagram

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Episode 321 features Teju Adisa-Farrar, the founder and co-creator of the Black Fiber & Textile Network and the creator/host of the Black Material Geographies podcast, alongside Layla K. Feghali, the founder of River Rose Remembrance, a Plantcestral & Ancestral Re-Membrance practitioner, cultural worker, author & story re-collector (archivist).

Teju is currently the Director of Outreach & Programs for the Fibers Fund, and co-creates with members of BFTN. Layla’s book, The Land In Our Bones, showcases an exploration of the herbs & land-based medicines of Lebanon & Cana’an, highlighting the power of culture’s relationship with land.

“I think of culture as a way of relating to your environment, including those around you, making sense & beliefs based on your environment, & creating a sense of a shared identity based on the place that you are in. With the creation of colonialism & the transatlantic slave trade, and this very globalized neoliberal world, now culture is less connected to a place & more connected to what and how we consume.” -Teju

“I feel like that relational way of existing or of relating is kind of what ultimately yields or inspires I guess what folks would call a sustainable way of navigating things. Because it requires a conversation beyond the self and with the entirety of the living world that I dwell in and that I’m a part of and that I impact and that impact me, and the ways that they’re alive.” -Layla

MAY THEME — Connecting With Nature To Unveil Ways To Reimagine Futures

As the sustainability conversation continues to evolve, we often will hear mention of regionality, or the importance of thinking more locally in supply chains or manufacturing. While this is a great aspect to explore further, it only touches the surface of the depth connected to geography, location and place. This week’s guests each approach education and storytelling through place-oriented lenses. While they are each uniquely different, these geography-oriented avenues teach us so much about what is often missing from the conversation.

As we’ve explored through various angles this season, culture is integral to sustainability. Our guests this week shed light on the many ways that culture can teach us about land, history and legacy. How understanding the land, its history and the cultures woven into it, can lead us toward restorative justice and regenerative practices. As one of our guests so beautifully writes in her book:

“The real focus of sustainability should be to recenter these Indigenous technologies rooted in multigenerational relationships to place, and teach younger generations how to harvest in ways that ensure the life of these plants will not only continue but spread per this ancestral knowledge.”

Links from the conversation:

• Teju’s Website
• Black Fiber & Textile Network
• River Rose Remembrance Website
• Follow Teju on Instagram
• Follow Layla on Instagram

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Episode 320 features Wafa Ghnaim, a Senior Research Fellow at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Curator for the Museum of the Palestinian People and Founder of The Tatreez Institute, alongside Dr. Tanveer Ahmed, a Senior Lecturer in Fashion and Race at Central Saint Martins and also Course Development Lead for MA Fashion and Anthropology at London College of Fashion.

“Inherently, just by being Palestinian and by teaching about Palestinian life and history, and including oral history in my work as a foundational aspect of my research, I am threatening these kinds of structures, in and of itself. And so, simply my existence is resisting that colonialism and the normalization of destruction and death of Palestinian bodies.” -Wafa

“Translating lots of decolonial thought around the canon and Eurocentrism and what shapes our ideas of art and design is really crucial to understand how we then deconstruct the canon. It’s not just a question about changing reading lists or to me, about representation and bringing in more Black and Brown academics into our institutions, although that is part of the equation. I think what we need to do and what I think is the most important role for me is to undue the harms that coloniality has done to our disciplines and within our institutions.” -Tanveer

APRIL THEME — COMING TOGETHER TO BUILD A BETTER FASHION FUTURE

Decolonizing fashion, intersectionality, identifying the knowledge holders, cultural inheritance and systems change were some of the key themes we explored in this week’s episode. We take a look at some of the areas that fashion educators are dismantling when it comes to heteronormative and Eurocentric views on fashion education and design. And how this knowledge can translate from the classroom or across cultural communities into practical ways. Building off of our last episode, we question – what are the biggest challenges we still face and how can we work toward more transformation?

We learn from one of our guests that this focus and lens on decolonising fashion where marginalization and othering is built into the foundation, is very different to the offerings of cultural preservation, which holistically exists to share lived experience, pass over craft practice, history, culture and honor the hands and bodies of the people at the center of this. As our guest shares, what else is there if we cannot honor the people preserving culture. Fashion as it exists, still has a ways to go in embracing this at its roots, but our guests give us hope as they move through the world, sharing their wisdom and truth, and teaching us the meaning of how to be good custodians and stewards, so we can uphold this legacy with care and intention and continue to center Indigenous craft, culture and practice.

Links from the conversation:

• Tatreez & Tea Website
• Tanveer’s Work Profile
• Follow Wafa (@tatreezandtea) on Instagram

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Episode 319 features guests Stella Hertantyo, the co-host of the Conscious Style Podcast, alongside Emily Stochl, the host and creator of Pre-Loved Podcast.

Stella also works as writer and communications coordinator, while Emily also works as the Vice President of Advocacy & Community Engagement at Remake.

“There are so many painful roots when you look back at the way that certain dyes came about and you know, cotton farming — there are so many different legacies of colonialism that existed and still exist. But I also want to take the word painful out of that sentence and say that we have also learned to acknowledge the roots of sustainability because not all of them have pain at the center. And I think what I've learned with so much interest and joy is the different textile heritages that exist across the continent — from natural dyes to hand looming to the ways that people grow certain crops, and yeah, just different ways of expressing and using textiles as ways to archive and also to preserve culture. And there are so many people that do this incredible work and I think that that is a really, really important acknowledgment that I had to come to realize in my own journey.” -Stella

“Labor rights are the foundation of what we know to be fashion activism in general, if we think back to the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory, which I know that something here in the United States, folks maybe learn about in school. This was another fashion industry-related disaster that led to a swath of movement-building around how we advocate for safer workplaces for people working inside the fashion industry. You know, roots to International Women’s Day, roots to some of the labor protections that we know and understand today, like the 40-hour work week. These are all things that if you look at the fashion industry from a history perspective, labor and the fashion industry, it is totally intertwined.” -Emily

APRIL THEME — COMING TOGETHER TO BUILD A BETTER FASHION FUTURE

Whether it’s legislation, science research & innovation, transformation in language, the storytelling tools & platforms in which we use to communicate, the evolution of definitions, the popularization of the second hand economy or labor rights advocacy – so much has changed within the sustainable fashion movement over the last decade.

This week, we really put our new round table format to work. We dissect the sustainable fashion industry through a timeline of events, paying homage to Fashion Revolution Day – a movement that, in conjunction with many others, has brought more mobilization and change to the space. Join the four of us – all podcasters & storytellers – for this expansive breakdown.

Links from the conversation:

• “What Is Extended Producer Responsibility in Textiles — and What’s Missing From Current Policies?”, article on Conscious Life & Style by Stella

• Become a Good Ancestor Podcast by Layla Saad (mentioned by Stella)

• Conscious Style Podcast Website
• Pre-Loved Podcast Website
• Follow Stella on Instagram
• Follow Conscious Style Podcast on Instagram
• Follow Emily on Instagram
• Follow Remake on Instagram

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*DISCLAIMER — this episode features stories connected to eating disorders and sexual abuse.

Episode 318 features guests Francisco Alcazar, a zero waste designer based in Los Angeles, California, alongside Ella Wiznia, the founder and designer of Series NY.

Using his 25 years experience as a structural engineer, Francisco is leading the movement that promotes circularity in fashion, and expanding these principles to other disciplines, whilst celebrating the material stories of each textile and the individuality they represent. A New York based brand of ethically made genderless clothing and accessories, Series NY makes every piece in NY in partnership with skilled artisans who set their own rates using only pre-existing and sustainable materials.

“What I like about upcycling is the freedom that it gives you. When you’re upcycling, you actually remix, rework, reuse. And in the process of doing that, the power is back to you. What I mean by that is when we go to a secondhand shop, all the clothes there are mixed up. You have the power to choose — there is no trend, there is no fashion. And the good thing is it’s hard because you have to deal with your inner ‘what you actually like’. And some people follow trends because the process of learning about you is hard. It’s easy to just conform and follow trends, you know, you go to magazines and copy a trend. You don’t have to actually learn about yourself anymore.” -Francisco

“Fashion kind of seems to be one of the only forms of art that is quote unquote gendered in most peoples’ minds. I mean, you don’t go into an art gallery and say ‘oh no, this is for men; no, that piece is for a girl’ — you know, it’s just not how it’s done. Or architecture — ‘no, this building was for this these types of people’. We’re all able to experience them how we want.” -Ella

MARCH THEME — Acknowledging The Confines of Gender & The Folks Disrupting Stereotypes

The fashion industry can often be described as frivolous with labels, stereotypes and binaries boxing us in – telling us how we need to dress and what identities are deemed quote unquote ‘acceptable’, which can create spaces that are harmful, toxic and void of any sort of individuality and uniqueness – it can often be a place where difference in not celebrated but rather hidden.

This week, our incredible guests share the power that upcycling has in being a paintbrush to the art you wish to create and see in the world - a world where the gender binary is challenged, where we go against ultra fashion trends, and have the permission to dress freely without societal bias and prejudice. We hear how pain can be the source of our purpose, and how textiles and materials are the vehicle in this journey of pride, play and personal empowerment.

We explore the origins of gender-based crafts, the passing over of traditional skills and techniques, and how our guests are challenging the confines of gender stereotypes through reimagining materiality.

Links from the conversation:

• Lynden B. Miller (artist that Ella mentions)
• Fran’s Website
• Series NY Website
• Follow Francisco on Instagram
• Follow Series NY on Instagram

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Episode 317 features guests Megan L. Schnitker, an Indigenous Traditional Herbalist and Niha Elety, a fashion advocate, designer, chef, and storyteller.

Megan is the owner of Lakota Made LLC, who offer plant medicinals and personal care products. Niha is the founder and CEO of fashion brand, Tega Collective, a brand that co-creates with Adivasi (Indigenous) communities celebrating their craft and knowledge with each collection.

“American herbalism was founded on Indigenous knowledge and use of all the plants that are in North America. And so, American herbalism is founded on Indigenous women’s knowledge, Indigenous storytellers’ knowledge. And we’re very rarely credited for giving colonizers that knowledge. I credit the herbalists that saved a lot of that knowledge and are using it and kept it alive, but it came from Indigenous people, it came from Indigenous women, it came from Indigenous medicine; it came from us.” -Megan

“The history of fashion production for centuries has been by women primarily. I’m from India, so in India, there’s large groups of artisans and garment workers and weavers, and a majority of the population that are in those kinds of professions are women. And over the years, I would say with the industrialization of textile production and all of that, men often became the heads of big fashion companies that we see today. So, a lot of them have profited from knowledge that a lot of female artisans and designers have been creating for a long time.” -Niha

MARCH THEME — Acknowledging The Confines of Gender & The Folks Disrupting Stereotypes

One of the recurring themes our incredibly powerful guests shared this week is that for true sustainability to exist, we must go beyond commodification and capitalism to focus on consent, compensation, credit, collaboration and co-creation where the individual human is valued and respected, and where preserving culture is at the forefront.

We question things like ownership and agency, and the power dynamics that play into who gets to decide what is deemed “fashion” or “medicine”. Who are the knowledge holders in fashion, wellness, herbalism & health spaces? Whose knowledge do we value? And what are the deep rooted reasons our society often doesn’t give credit to certain genders and their intersectionalities?

We learn that craft and wellness are embedded into the wisdom and intuitive ways of life for Indigenous people and cultures, from the Adivasi communities in South Asia to Indigenous people like the Lakota here in the U.S. And that by design, the erasure and extraction of female knowledge, the matriarchs of so many cultures, is a constant struggle.

The solution is more than just words, it’s the actions and uplifting and amplifying of Indigenous peoples, and the honoring of traditional ways that have real potential to impact systemic change. It’s also in slowing down our everyday interactions and the way we share information and knowledge, in a way where we actually respect and pay homage to the origins of ideas.

NOTE: Megan had to jump off our call to make it to her child’s parent teacher conference, so we weren’t able to hear her thoughts on our last question during the episode. We were thankful that she was able to send through her ideas on “how to slow down when everything feels fast” so we can share them with you here:

I take time at least one day a week or one morning a week. I have nothing scheduled and I clean my house so I can sit in a clean house in silence. I sit there and look at all my family pictures on the walls, family that's passed on, good times, and sad times and I practice gratitude. Gratitude for everything I have, everything I receive and for the moments that brought me this far. If it's warm out (my fibromyalgia doesn’t like cold), I'll go outside and drink a cup of tea or coffee in my backyard and listen to the sounds of nature, and just sit and practice gratitude for everything that brought me to that moment. I sit with the chaos of my kiddos and I smile and thank the universe / Tunkasila for sending me these amazing beings I get to mother, I thank my girls all the time for being who they are and teaching me so much and also bringing so much value to my life; without them, the motivation wouldn't be there. Before bedtime, I read my girls books, and as I read them this story, I cherish the moments before sleep and thank the universe for keeping me here and getting me here. -Megan

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Lakota Made Website
• Niha’s Website
• Tega Collective’s Website
• Follow Lakota Made on Instagram
• Follow Niha on Instagram

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Episode 316 features guests Lina Barkawi, a Tatreez practitioner, preservationist, and educator based in Brooklyn, alongside Eman Toom, a Palestinian Tatreez artist, teacher, sewer and crafter.

“Part of just doing tatreez, in my personal opinion, is a form of resistance because we’re basically just existing and we’re showing our Palestinian identity, but there have also been very explicit uses of tatreez as a form of resistance. And so you have thobes that came out of the intifadas in the ‘90s where the flag was banned and so these are very explicit uses of tatreez where they would stitch literally the Palestinian flag. Or different motifs, like new motifs that came out of representing national identity and things like that. So, I just wanted to mention that because there have been very explicit forms of resistance, but I think the more subtle ways is kind of where Eman and I are playing a very big role in — is thinking about how do we help just bring more Palestinians into this art form and help them reclaim this art form and use it, because just by doing that, no matter what your color preferences are, whatever your background is, that is just in and of itself a form of resistance against an occupier.” -Lina

“The technique and the skill that you’re using to create these motifs — it is at its simplest form, a form of cross stitch. There’s other forms of tatreez, but for the most part, it is that. But what I try to always remind people is that tatreez is so much more than that, in the sense that it is a record of our history. You know, the more that we study Palestinian embroidery, the more that we’re studying tatreez, the more that we’re studying the history of Palestine at the same time. You can’t have one without the other, they go hand in hand.” -Eman

When we think about sustainability, what’s the first thing that comes to mind? Perhaps curbing our addiction to consumption, mass manufacturing, and circular materials. But what about cultural sustainability, craft, connection to ancestral land, and challenging colonization through continuing to uplift centuries old traditions?

In this week's episode we learn from our guests about how Tatreez inherently IS sustainability. The motifs and symbols embroidered on cloth are a language of symbols documenting spaces in time, they tell stories of nature, the flora and fauna around the Women making them. We learn that the hand made process is the antithesis to homogeneous fashion - it is slow, considered and truly one of a kind.

In 2021 the art of embroidery in Palestine was recognized by UNESCO as an important intangible cultural heritage - an artform that connects the Palestinian people to their roots. Preserving culture is inherently and naturally, as our guests share - sustainability. It needs no labels, or commodifying - it is made up of the everyday rituals, traditions, craft and practices that celebrate identity.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “The Land In Our Bones” by Layla K. Feghali, book Kestrel brings up briefly
• Lina’s Landing Page
• Listen to Tatreez Talk (Lina’s new podcast)
• Eman’s Website
• Follow Lina on Instagram
• Follow Eman on Instagram

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Episode 315 features guests Amy Denet Deal, the founder of 4Kinship, a Diné (Navajo) owned sustainable artwear brand, alongside Sha’Mira Covington, Ph.D., an interdisciplinary scholar-artist and Assistant Professor in Fashion.

“Thinking about sustainability beyond just the textiles, thinking about the land that we’re on, how we can live in reciprocity with the people, the four-legged relatives, everything, the plants, the animals here — in all the work we do. Which is why community focus is so much part of what I consider sustainability ‘cause everyone should be thriving from what we do — not just the brand, not just a couple people, everything around needs to be in that harmony.” -Amy

“I’m very much so motivated by truth. We, as a society, have gotten really deep in the business of pretending, pretending that things are ok and they are not. We, as as society, are very spiritually unwell, yet we continue to go on as business as usual. This facade of sorts keeps me up and the performative untruths we have to tell ourselves every day to function in this society is very unsettling to me. This motivates me to be a seeker of truth, to better connect to myself, to nature and to other people.” -Sha’Mira

In this week's episode, we explore the topic of INTERGENERATIONAL KNOWLEDGE IN FASHION & TEXTILES. To say this episode was healing, would be an understatement.

We talk about how we can learn from the trees, and the sky and the land that we walk on each day. What Black and Brown Indigenous cultures teach us about truth-telling, and the unlearning and relearning of traditional ways. We also explore how community circles are a solution to creating more social impact and better connections … with one another, with our four legged relatives, and the natural world around us.

This episode teaches us how to live in reciprocity, and how fashion is more than just aesthetics; it’s about the upholding of cultural practices, and the amplifying of intergenerational knowledge and traditions. In order for these to live on, we all must actively participate in honoring and respecting and appreciating them – not appropriating them.

We all have a responsibility to take part in challenging systems to better heal the planet and its Indigenous cultures who have always been the inherent teachers of these connected ways of life. We can’t wait for you to listen and learn from our guests this week who are the holders of so much wisdom, knowledge and truth.

Tune in as we contextualize our February theme – Sharing Textile Knowledge Across Generations.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Water Protectors by Carole Lindstrom, children’s book Kestrel mentions
• Images above are from Sha’Mira’s recent installation at the Fashion for Good Museum in Amsterdam, Netherlands, entitled Curative: Confronting and Healing the Fashion-industrial Complex
• 4Kinship currently has 2 fundraisers active for their community initatives: 1) Text SKATEINBEAUTY to 707070 to help them deliver skateboards on Navajo Nation with Diné Skate Garden Project

2) Text ILLUMINATE to 707070 to help amplify and elevate Indigenous creatives with 4KINSHIP INDIGENOUS FUTURES FUND * 4Kinship’s Website * Sha’Mira’s Website * Follow 4Kinship on Instagram * Follow Sha’Mira on Instagram

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In episode 314, you’ll hear our first official roundtable format, featuring guests Beth Jones, YouTube star and creator of B. Jones Style, alongside Dounia Wone, the Chief Impact Officer at Vestiaire Collective, a platform that showcases luxury preloved fashion.

“It’s few and far between that the fast fashion holds up against vintage or really quality pieces maybe made by a designer or things like that … Even if it has a vintage look to it, there’s something about it that doesn’t hold up in a way. And honestly, I will be a little bummed. It’s Zara. I’d rather have the old Kathys of California blazer or dress. I end up not being excited about it, so often, I just go with something else instead.” -Beth

“Vestiaire is a 15 year old company. Our founders really believed in fighting overconsumption and overproduction back then in Paris … When I went to them and said ‘ok, let’s ban fast fashion,’ they were completely in … what we want is that it will educate the consumers on our platform. What we were looking at is the behavior … what we saw for the last year was actually people are staying on the platform, 70% of the people who were impacted by the ban stayed on the platform and actually reinvested more and bought less.” -Dounia

JANUARY THEME — Fast Fashion, Consumption & Why Self Work Is Integral To Changemaking

When we talk about the messes of the fashion industry, a recurring theme we circle back to is – OVERPRODUCTION – especially with regard to fast fashion. Whether you’re super interested in sustainability and fashion or you’re new to the conversation, most people today are coming to the basic conclusion that fast fashion is problematic, due to its incessant mass production.

There has been a lot of commentary over the last 7 years, about I guess, the questioning of our moral compass, when it comes to how we shop for fast fashion. What do I mean by that? Let’s break it down.

We know that fast fashion is everywhere, and that so much of our clothing ends up in charity shops, where sadly, a great deal of it is destined for landfill.

• So, to address this cycle, does it make sense to buy fast fashion from the secondhand economy? Can we then prevent these clothes from ending up in landfills?

It’s not that simple.

Other questions come up like –

• “If we adopt the same shopping behaviors in the secondhand economy as we have with fast fashion, what really changes? Where do we draw the line?”

Or

• Aren’t we just encouraging the fast fashion industry to churn out more stuff to feed the overproducing system it has generated?

In this week's episode, we chat with two incredible powerhouse women from very different realms of the fashion industry. They each contribute so much to helping dissect this tension –

• We explore the layers of responsibility we hold as everyday individuals
• The power organizations hold in enacting change
• And how lobbying and legislation is an integral part of fashioning a better future for fashion.

We also discuss the power of personal style and how we can all start shifting our buying behavior by ‘Always Playing Dress Up’. Sound familiar? One of our guests coined that very phrase.

Tune in as we dive deeper into our January theme – Fast Fashion, Consumption & Why Self Work Is Integral To Changemaking.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “Not-So-Fast Fashion: Embracing Responsible Consumption Through Online Activism”, article by Dounia that Nat mentions

• B. Jones Style Website

• Vestiaire Collective Website
• Beth’s YouTube
• Follow Beth on TikTok
• Follow Vestiaire on TikTok
• Follow Beth on Instagram
• Follow Dounia on Instagram
• Follow Vestiaire Collective on Instagram

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In episode 313, you’ll hear from co-hosts (yes, co-hosts!) Kestrel Jenkins and Natalie Shehata in the launch of Season 7. This is also the first episode in which Kestrel and Nat showcase their new co-host dynamic. With this powerful community-driven change, they’ve teamed up to reimagine some aspects of the show. Here’s what you can expect this season:

• Roundtable Discussions — featuring at least 2 guests per episode
• Focus On Making The Conversation More Circular — bringing more folks to the table to learn from various voices at the same time
• Monthly Themes — we’ll hone in on a specific topic each month
• Bi-Weekly Episodes — expect to hear 2 episodes per month, instead of the previous 4 because, slow media :)

JANUARY THEME — FAST FASHION, CONSUMPTION & WHY SELF WORK IS INTEGRAL TO CHANGEMAKING

Do you remember episode 303 when we talked about slow media and telling stories through love, not labor? In our kickoff to the new season, we decided to go deeper into this love-not-labor concept – to explore what it really means and how this approach directly relates to sustainable fashion.

Pulling back a little further – our focus of this show is Self Work. But what does this really mean? In general, it gets aligned with the idea of self improvement. Across the fashion media landscape and socials lately, we’ve seen a heightened interest in looking inward to question what you really want out of your life. Why? Well, it’s the time for annual resolutions, as we just celebrated the launch of a new year.

And with that – in sustainable fashion lately, there’s been a lot of commentary about how things need to be reimagined across the industry, with folks voicing different approaches to achieve larger scalable transformation. At the same time, it feels like the movement needs to have a more organic approach and not be so defined or limited – because as it stands, sustainability is so different to each of us, and in order to cultivate a space that is truly diverse, we all need to be at the table to provide our unique approaches.

But whether or not we’re at the table, in order to take any sort of action, we need to go back to the beginning and tune into ourselves. When was the last time you questioned your values? What do you truly care about? Until we are clear on these aspects within ourselves, how can we live out these values and put them into practice?

Therein lies the crux of what we break down in this week's show.

Find more notes at www.ConsciousChatter.com.

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In episode 312, Kestrel welcomes Denali Jöel, a non-binary Multidisciplinary Artist, Designer, Educator and Fashion Griot, to the show. Born and raised in Kingston, Jamaica, Denali has been an asylee living in the US since 2014, recently obtaining their U.S. citizenship this year. Their art praxis intersects design, performance, media and community engagement with particular focus on queer identities and Afro-diasporan histories, futures, collective healing, and radical imagination.

“It comes back to us as an individual but also as a collective to recognize that we need to shift our own relationship to fashion and with fashion as a tool for the ways in which that we show up, the ways in which we disrupt our own oppression. I think we place so much emphasis on calling out and asking industry to do better and I’m just like — the industry is actually operating the way it’s supposed to, like it was built. Again, when you think about whose imagination we are living in, that is the imagination. And so, when we force folks to shift, are we just bullying them into performing a version of change or is it possible that we could create new ecosystems within our own selves — and using the resources available to us — but creating that shift and slowly moving away from industry and start thinking more about ecosystems.” -Denali

This is THE FINAL EPISODE of Season 6. Launched in February of 2022, this season has taken us on a journey – and here we are, arriving at the 52nd episode of this era of Conscious Chatter.

Over the last two years on the show, we have questioned so much of how the fashion industry operates, and really dove into unique ways that individuals, companies and initiatives are working to basically unlearn the way fashion has been done and relearn new ways of reimagining its future.

This final episode of the season feels really important to me – as it’s the last show that will be oriented in this way. As Nat and I have teased a bit here and there, we have a fresh approach to Conscious Chatter coming to you with Season 7. :)

But with this immense feeling of wanting to culminate Season 6 in an extra meaningful and circular way, I sat and questioned for quite some time who could provide that sort of grounding presence. When I thought of this week’s guest, I felt instantly at ease and an all-encompassing feeling of warmth and hope surrounded me. They were the person that could help us close out this season. It may sound a bit airy fairy, but this episode feels like a massive hug to me – I hope you feel it too.

In today’s world, we hear the word INTENTIONAL thrown around a lot. It’s one of those words that has taken hold in recent years and become a go-to. While we see its use on a consistent basis, I’m not entirely sure whether we’re seeing its meaning carried out in practice.

What is the definition of INTENTIONAL?

According to Dictionary.com, it is defined as: done with intention or on purpose.

In order to do something with intention, there is almost undoubtedly a need to slow down and become more present and tuned into that process. As we know, slowing down is not really something the systems around us are advocating for.

But that doesn’t mean there aren’t folks out there truly taking the meaning of intentionality to heart and very thoughtfully putting it into practice.

I say it in our chat, but I’ll say it again – this week’s guest takes intentionality to the extreme, in the most beautiful way. They also consistently resist the systems around us by working to reimagine their own approaches and value indicators outside of the vacuum as much as possible.

For example, they approach fashion and costume design as an art praxis that is rooted in intentionality, sustainability and social equity, and that is guided by three Afro-Indigenous philosophies.

Instead of commodifying it, they have and continue to use fashion as a tool to slowly further discover themself. But what I love about how they communicate is they are not only talking about themself as an individual, but also being a Black Queer person, they are telling stories as a part of a larger community of intersections, brimming with collective histories, present circumstances and collective futures.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “The more I matured, the more I realized that external validation was very fickle and fleeting. And so, it came now to — when I look in the mirror, do the clothes that I wear, does my appearance uplift and reverence the divine feminine and the divine masculine that lives within me?” -Denali (25:07)
• “Because of me and my own intersections, the work that I do is constantly in conversation with who I am and my positionality in society — the areas within which I feel marginalized and also the areas within which I feel liberated. And so, I want to ensure that I’m making space for that and holding the past, the present, and the future within me. And so, being a griot is essentially that — it’s acting as an archive, as a vanguard of sorts, you know protecting and advancing the stories of who I am as an individual but also as a collective body — centering and amplifying the Black femme, shifting the balance to us recognizing that Queer folks, especially those at the intersection of being Black and Queer are diviners historically — reclaiming all of that. And so, being a griot was important to me because like you said, I’m a storyteller and I think it hit me when I realized the vicissitudes I’ve had to survive in my life are to kind of give me and provide me with all of these stories — these stories that again, through the Ubuntu principle are not just for me, but they’re for the collective, they’re for everyone.” -Denali (31:52)
• “Parable Of The Sower”, book by Octavia E. Butler that Denali references connected to their upcoming project in collaboration with The New Children’s Museum in San Diego, CA
• “I think we talk a lot about diversity, equity and inclusion, but we don’t talk about belonging. And belonging invites us to think holistically about the space — tactile — what does it feel like? What does it smell like? What does it taste like even when we enter the space, and is it familiar to those of us who have always felt as though we’ve existed outside of these spaces?” -Denali (44:53)
• “Songs Of The Gullah” — a fashion film by Denali
• Denali’s Website
• Follow Studio Asa >
• Follow Denali on Instagram >

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In episode 311, Kestrel welcomes Julius Tillery, founder of BlackCotton, to the show. A 5th-generation cotton farmer from North Carolina, Julius founded BlackCotton to help center and uplift the Black community closest to the cotton fields in Northampton County, North Carolina.

“There’s so many demons and like bad spirits and bad tropes around cotton and the industry in general, and you know, just coming from the South, and people having these perspectives of cotton production relating to slavery — I felt like people was making these notions about cotton and not really knowing anything about cotton. And I wanted to start educating people about the cotton business, and even myself and how people like myself — how we end up in cotton. Families that work in cotton like, what was their value-in working in this type of production? And I wanted to change that outlook to make it look more stronger and prestigious than what was assumed.” -Julius

About 6 episodes back, we had a chat with the brilliant leader and self-proclaimed solutionist Tameka Peoples of Seed2Shirt. This episode was deeply focused on the work Tameka is doing to rebuild equitable and just cotton systems & foster the reclamation of cotton acreage for Black farmers.

It’s a really important show that helps provide some of the historical context around cotton in the United States, as well as ways that Tameka and her team are working to reimagine new systems for cotton.

When guests lead to new guests, I like to acknowledge that because it’s a beautiful thing. So, thanks to Tameka and our interactions, I was led to this week’s guest – Julius Tillery.

This week’s guest was raised amongst cotton fields – growing the fiber is something that runs deep throughout his ancestry. As a 5th generation cotton farmer, he has followed in the footsteps of generations before, but – with a twist.

Known to many as the Puff Daddy of Cotton, he has approached the cotton industry with a focus on remixing what the business looks like today. As a young person, he saw the imminent need to rebrand cotton, and to help expand the narrative around the fiber away from the harmful alignment it often has with simply being a poor man’s crop.

Julius shares more about how he’s reimagining what a cotton farmer’s business model can look like today, how he’s creating alternative revenue streams, he reveals some of the financial challenges farmers face, and tells us how he was able to actually turn fiber from his family’s plants into fashion.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “And I think that’s what really makes us to the sustainability component of clothing and sustainable world in general — is this is actually real stuff that comes off a real farm — and I make it culturally and I make it about environmental where it’s coming from a Black community from Black people that’s growing cotton in an area, in a time period that we used to be oppressed by this crop, but actually now we’re trying to control it and make it something that we can be proud of and uplifting our community. I hope that in my community I stand as a symbol of pride and of strength, being a farmer, instead of somebody who was oppressed.” -Julius (10:22)
• “What I’m doing with my farm is trying to show pride in being a farmer, and that’s moreso than just culturally — that’s just all of the industry and environmentalism. Like, we have to have more respect for the resources that we create with our planet, so that we don’t waste them, so that we don’t have to have bad resources come back to us. I’m really into like — why are we importing so many products when people need jobs here in America, people need jobs here in the Western Hemisphere — how can we connect dots so we don’t have to ship stuff all across the world?” -Julius (15:22)
• “Cultivating distress: cotton, caste and farmer suicides in India”, research article that highlights the distressing statistics around cotton farmers and suicide (something that Kestrel brings up on the show) — “Nearly 4,00,000 farmers committed suicide in India between 1995 and 2018. This translates into approximately 48 suicides every day.”
• “I feel like it’s important that as much as possible, we find ways to support sustainable so there’s a reason for it to be in the marketplace.” -Julius (19:27)
• “And that’s the only way we gonna be sustainable is these big companies see purpose in dealing with such small companies like myself. I hope that things can change but you know, I’m really being real about who we are in regards to what’s the culture of the industry we in. Cause I’m so much smaller than the cotton farmers I’m around but that allows me to make decisions and be someone who can think more efficiently and more lean.” -Julius (20:05)
• “With urban agriculture and the growth of farmer’s markets all across the country, I believe there’s people seeing the value and worth of growing their own foods and products. So there’s so many people that want to learn to grow their own food and products. So many people want to learn about the business of foods and products. I believe there’s new energy around agriculture and it’s a constantly growing industry right now. And I think that the way our education system has been set up for many years, and even right now — it’s set up to disadvantage agriculture, like it’s telling you not to go into it. Like our college prepatories teaching you to be a doctor, a lawyer, some type of high white-collar job / professional, but I think there’s a lot of things in pop culture, I believe there’s a lot of living arrangements right now that’s bringing new energy to people that grow outdoors. The new look of a farmer is a lot more updated than 30, 40 years ago. You know, farmers are aging, but then there’s young farmers coming in that’s using the internet and really out here networking and connecting, and so there’s a tide turning.” -Julius (30:15)
• “I like to compare myself as an ant to the whole cotton industry, the cotton jungle. Ants make mounds, and before long, there’s more mounds than you can count.” -Julius (32:16)
• “Rewriting The Story Of Cotton” in Our State
• “Meet The Puff Daddy Of Cotton”, Human Footprint episode on PBS that features Julius
• BlackCotton Website
• Follow BlackCotton on Facebook >
• Follow BlackCotton on Instagram >

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In episode 310, Kestrel and Natalie welcome Cassandra Pintro, the founder of The Consumption Project, to the show. With a focus on making impact cool, The Consumption Project serves as a catalyst for educating folks about the impact of their buying habits and nurturing a collective mindset that values quality, longevity, and the environment.

“So, it was — how do I find myself in this space and how do I make space that opens up a door for other people to feel comfortable, and you’re starting from a place that is kind of like a blank slate. And I really felt that sustainability was the right vehicle to tell that story and really get back to basics if you will, cause that is really what, in my mind, consumption is about — it’s about people telling you what you need to have vs what you actually need to have or what you might even want for yourself vs what you’re thinking you want for yourself.” -Cassandra

You have probably heard us talk about consumption on the show – it tends to be a recurring theme that weaves its way into the majority of our conversions, in one way or another. While there are so many issues contributing to fashion’s inequitable systems, consumption (fueled by overproduction) is a very significant piece of the overarching puzzle.

And while it may not always feel this way – our consumption is something that we actually have some sort of control over.

Do you feel like you are tuned into your consumption habits? Are you aware of what you buy and why you buy it? Do you regularly question what is enough for you?

Maybe some of these resonate, or maybe you haven’t asked yourself these questions before. Either way, we all have more work to do when it comes to tuning into our buying behaviors. Considering the capitalistic world that we live in, where more is regularly touted as the best option, it can be challenging to turn off all the pro-consumption marketing noise around us, constantly telling us that we need to buy something else to be better.

This week’s guest realized that she wanted to challenge herself to be ok with what she already has – to embrace what was currently in her closet as enough. As an associate production manager at a fashion publication – one many would say is the holy grail of fashion magazines — her decision to stop consuming fashion items for a year felt nothing less than iconic.

Leading by example, this week’s guest decided to open up her personal consumption journey and welcome others in, to join her in the process. She created a safe space where folks are opening up about the oxymoronic realities of their unique journeys. The honest dialogue she’s cultivating allows us to feel like we’re a part of something bigger, yet without the need to performatively appear perfect. Because when you’re grappling with consumption, failure of some sort is expected and should be embraced as an educational tool, not defeat.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “I felt like I couldn’t keep going down that path without challenging the space that I’m in, and it was a really big part of the early mission of Consumption Project — there were a couple different things that were really important to me, but one of them being that it needed to feel like something that was easy and accessible (accessibility is huge to me), it needed to feel like something that people could do unconsciously without it feeling like they are a climate expert, which is also really important for me as well. I really wanted to do something that didn’t position me in a place for people to think that that’s what I was, because I feel like that’s unfair to people who are actively in this space and have been in it a lot longer and know numbers and statistics a lot more than I do. And I really wanted to do something that felt like it was talking to my community, first and foremost — my friends — and saying ok, if I’m at step 3 and you’re at step 0 or 1, maybe I can at least just hold your hand and be a vehicle to making you think a little bit more consciously.” -Cassandra (16:35)
• “I’m not perfect at it yet, it’s a very new thing. And I think the thing that I was most willing to do with Consumption Project is fail or get it wrong out loud and in real time with my audience and showing them that if I, somebody who works in a place that is considered almost an authority of our industry — 1) if I can gain their support to even talk about this initiative that I’m trying to do, that’s incredible and that’s a step forward and then 2) while I still am somebody existing in that space, if I can fail in front of people, I think it gives them a little bit more space to feel like they can too.” -Cassandra (37:04)
• “Why I (a Fashion-Lover) Am Giving Up Fashion — For Now”, article by Cassandra in Vogue
• Consumption Project Website
• Follow The Consumption Project on Instagram >
• Follow Cassandra on Instagram >

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In episode 309, Kestrel welcomes Jeanell English, the founder and CEO of ELIZABETH, to the show. An experienced facilitator and people operations leader, Jeanell has worked in an array of roles, most recently as the Executive Vice President of Impact and Inclusion at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, before she dove fully into her own company, ELIZABETH.

“Because the reality is — you’re never gonna win everything you aim to win. It’s not really a competition, it’s about progress. And it’s so easy to be distracted because you’re gonna have people saying: you’re not doing enough, you’re not going fast enough, you’re not going hard enough. You’re gonna hear people saying: you’re doing too much, you’re too hard. So you’re really in this challenging intersection. So, for me, establishing very clear goals at the beginning of any role that I take on is so important because that becomes my North Star, my guiding light, the thing that grounds me and keeps me focused.” -Jeanell

What we wear is one way we say something to the world. Each day, we wake up, put on an outfit and step outside into various spaces. The act of dressing, in and of itself, can be an important avenue to express ourselves.

At the same time, we operate within a world that is full of expectations that have been constructed over time, and entrenched in power dynamics. Take for example – executive spaces. You have to look the part, right? And don’t forget – that usually comes at a high cost.

Not only does clothing and appearance play a strong role in these environments, but often, there is an assumption that leaders must act a certain way as well – project a specific persona and showcase their power position in how they interact with coworkers.

Now let’s add another layer. Imagine you work as an Executive in Impact, Diversity, Equity, Climate or Sustainability. You’re in a role with the understanding of the imminent need to dismantle systems of power as a part of the work – but you’re operating within some sort of hierarchical structure at the same time.

And don’t forget the tension of navigating the worlds of activists and executives, as someone working in these fields. How can you satisfy both sides?

Are you questioning what this conversation has to do with sustainability and fashion? For starters – the pressure to uphold a specific image through the way we dress or act in executive spaces is rooted in inequity. Having to visually showcase that you belong, based on the clothing you wear, is an issue of accessibility.

This week’s guest has extensive experience navigating so many of these intersections – and working for notable organizations like The Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences.

Creating change is challenging, but learning from folks like her who are navigating these intersections is key to reimagining creative ways to intentionally move forward.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “Leading with kindness and respect and curiosity is one of the ways to disarm someone who might be coming to a conversation from a place of defensiveness or wanting to protect legacy, because you’re not coming to attack, you’re coming to understand, to question, to have a conversation, which can be just as effective at dismantling these systems of power. Because you’ve eliminated this feeling, this tension that is underlying this conversation that really is about change.” -Jeanell (23:52)
• “I cannot value inclusion and equity and accessibility if I don’t model it in my own leadership behavior — that’s always been incredibly important to me and for me. And I’ve seen and had the honor of working with great leaders who have modeled that for me.” -Jeanell (28:53)
• “The reality is someone is always going to have an issue with the way that you’re approaching things — it goes back to what I was talking about and being in this intersection of really vocal, vocal, hugely well respected advocates pushing things forward in a very big way and executives who are satisfying sometimes different needs. They each have different values that are driving them on a day to day. And I think you can get lost in trying to assimilate and align your values with the different parties. When again, what is your North Star? What’s your guiding light? What are the goals that you have set out? And of course, you might flex and you might learn from either side along the way and that informs your path forward, but needing to satisfy or having that innate feeling that you have to satisfy is part of the issue of us moving things forward. I sit in the space of progress, again — progress not perfection.” -Jeanell (32:36)
• ELIZABETH Website
• Follow Jeanell on Instagram >

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In episode 308, Kestrel welcomes Muchaneta Ten Napel, the founder of Shape Innovate and FashNerd.com, to the show. As a fashion economist, a lecturer, a writer, a consultant and the founder of Shape Innovate and FashNerd.com, Muchaneta is powering change through a multifaceted approach.

“To many people, today, to be sustainable is a way of draining money out of your company — it’s not a money-making initiative. And that’s the kind of thoughts that I would like to really change. Because for me, that merger of fashion and technology is growing and changing. It’s going beyond the wearable tech that we all were kind of excited about, and all the different devices. It’s now the idea of using innovation to make a social impact and to problem solve when it comes to sustainability — that’s where technology is now.” -Muchaneta

Fashion’s obsession with technology is something we’ve spoken about before – there’s this sentiment that often permeates the space, hyping tech to be some sort of avenue that will serendipitously save us all from the climate crisis.

From investors to the media, tech is often held up on a pedestal, and treated as though it’s going to be the reason or the way we change fashion for the better.

From my lens, there’s no golden ticket – we need so many avenues and approaches – you know, we need regulatory change and we need corporate change, and we need individual change and collective advocacy.

And as we’ve talked about before – there are so many important reasons to not only look into the future, but also to look back into history and culture. For example, we can learn so much from Indigenous practices – from farming techniques to dyeing approaches and beyond.

And when it comes to tech today, more and more information is coming out that highlights the complications that can come with these new innovations, from an equity lens – I think of some of the conversations around AI connected to the stealing of art, or the way some brands have used AI to generate so-called diverse models, instead of actually hiring and paying Black and Brown Indigenous models.

There’s a lot there. This week’s guest launched one of the early platforms dedicated to exploring the intersections of fashion and tech back in 2015, so she clearly has an affinity for exploring what technology can offer the fashion space. At the same time, she doesn’t buy into this sentiment that tech will save us all – instead, she thinks of it as one of many tools that are necessary to address fashion’s inequitable systems.

This week’s episode goes down an array of tangents connected to fashion – from technology to policy to media, we’re getting into some of the important reasons that the future of fashion is intrinsically multifaceted.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “We need to stop using innovation as a marketing tool — because I feel sometimes the fashion industry hasn’t got the ability to commit to the idea of innovation and push it forward so everyone can reap the benefits of technology but they’re very keen to use it as a marketing ploy to push forward an idea, a thought, an experience. And the problem I have with that is that they don’t commit to it — it’s a moment and I feel like it cheapens the technology, it makes people not take it as seriously as they could do. The view of what technology is to fashion is I guess muddied by the way it’s used as a marketing tool.” -Muchaneta (14:49)
• “The fashion industry is very me focused, rather than we focused — so how can we as an industry realize the enemy of my enemy is my friend, and work together for a common goal?” -Muchaneta (16:07)
• “If we are planting these great ideas in bad soil and expecting it to flourish, well, of course we’re going to fail. So, when it comes to being sustainable as a brand, you need to have it in your DNA, it needs to be part of your strategy in order for it to flourish.” -Muchaneta (17:45)
• “You can’t blame ignorance and lack of knowledge on your bad decisions because the information is there — it’s a question of whether you choose to become a catalyst for change or you choose to just continue trading like we’re back in 1996.” -Muchaneta (26:00)
• “Technology is not something that is going to save us — far from that — but what it will do — is make it easier for us to save ourselves.” -Muchaneta (29:03)
• “What we’re trying to use with technology — we’re not trying to take away the creativity of fashion — we’re trying to change how fashion does business.” -Muchaneta (31:00)
• Shape Innovate Website
• FashNerd.com Website
• Culture and Creative Industries (CCI) Taskforce UN Climate Change Global Innovation Hub (for those who want to stay ahead of the coming changes)
• Muchaneta’s LinkedIn
• Follow Shape Innvovate on Instagram >
• Follow FashNerd.com on Instagram >

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In episode 307, Kestrel welcomes Rachel Arthur, a strategist, journalist, and the Advocacy Lead for Sustainable Fashion at the United Nations Environment Programme, to the show. Rachel is the lead author of The Sustainable Fashion Communication Playbook, which was published earlier this year by the United Nations Environment Programme and the UN Climate Change Fashion Charter.

“Communicators themselves, on a couple of levels, have had the ability to participate and to contribute I think is what I’m looking for here, and that is the first of all. But they themselves, by being communicators, have a skill set that is missing in the sustainability space, which is around this notion of making something desirable, creative — making people fall in love with things. That is fundamentally what fashion does, and we need to redirect it toward sustainability.” -Rachel

Are you a communicator in the fashion space? Whether it’s through your work or everyday life, communicating about sustainability and fashion can be challenging and complex.

This week’s guest is the lead author of a new framework for fashion communicators – it’s called the Sustainable Fashion Communication Playbook, and it’s a deep dive into why we must all play a role in shifting the narrative.

The Playbook provides actionable steps communicators can take including: establishing a foundation with verifiable information, acknowledging that fashion is integral in building culture, and highlighting the role storytellers must play in advocating for change.

We address head-on one of fashion’s biggest issues today – misinformation. As the report highlights, A 2020 study by the European Commission found 53.3% of environmental claims communicated in the EU at large were vague, misleading or unfounded. And a fashion specific report by Changing Markets from 2021 finds that 60% of sustainability claims by European fashion giants are “unsubstantiated” and “misleading”.

The Playbook recommends that one way communicators can break the cycle of misinformation is by leading with science. While this is absolutely necessary, I regularly hear frustrations over the lack of accessible scientific data and research available in the fashion space. We explore this tension as well.

Telling stories is powerful and can influence change.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “So, I don’t think that there is a silver bullet here — there isn’t the single answer in the playbook, but the intention is to open up this discussion and put it on the table and importantly say that marketers, communicators, anybody in that sort of job function, which basically means that they spend time communicating with consumers in some capacity, has a role that they can play here to help towards change.” -Rachel (16:58)
• The Sustainable Fashion Communication Playbook Report
• The Sustainable Fashion Communication Playbook Interactive
• FashMash, global community Rachel helped cofound
• Rachel’s LinkedIn
• Follow Rachel on Instagram >

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In episode 306, Kestrel welcomes Tameka Peoples, the founder and CEO of Seed2Shirt, to the show. A Black-woman-owned vertically integrated ethical apparel production & boutique cotton merchant firm, Seed2Shirt is focused on rebuilding equitable systems and institutions.

“You’re seeing laws put into place like the 1862 Homestead Act where there were millions of acres of land just given to white families. And Black people were at the same time, being burned out of their communities. What I mean by that is — there’s elements to this thing that we call fashion — that’s connected to raw commodity that’s connected to land that is a part of the blood, sweat and tears that Black people have put and poured into this economy and poured into this country.” -Tameka

When we look back at agriculture in the United States, a lot of the origins of farming in this country were built on an extractive, harmful, and extremely damaging history. So much was stolen and stripped – from lives to land to livelihoods.

We don’t talk enough in the fashion industry about its true origins – about who helped build the cotton industry – a textile that has been deemed and marketed as: the fabric of our lives.

From 1765 to 1861, during the years of Chattel Slavery, $528 billion dollars worth of cotton were farmed – mind you, this happened with the use of enslaved labor.

Fast forward through layers and layers of other significant historical moments to where we are today. While the cotton industry in the United States was literally grown by Black folks, today – the numbers say there are less than 1% Black Cotton Farmers.

This week’s guest understands so much depth of this history – and when she discovered she couldn’t buy a t-shirt made by Black folks using cotton farmed by Black folks, she decided she had to make one.

This was the seed that has continued to grow and flourish into what she is doing today – while many may call it conscious fashion, for her – it’s so much more than that. As a self-proclaimed solutionist, she’s rebuilding equitable systems and institutions, with intention and care, while supporting Black farmers along the way.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “Yes, they love Black images and Black body and Black fashion and they use us to sell to people for industry. But what part of that industry do we own and control?” -Tameka (9:45)
• “You’re seeing laws put into place like the 1862 Homestead Act where there were millions of acres of land just given to white families. And Black people were at the same time, being burned out of their communities. What I mean by that is — there’s elements to this thing that we call fashion — that’s connected to raw commodity that’s connected to land that is a part of the blood, sweat and tears that Black people have put and poured into this economy and poured into this country. So, we are building back land elements, we’re building back equity for Black cotton farmers, we’re building an institution that portions of it we control that they can plug into, and then, we’re part of larger institutions that allow farmers that are in this space allow their cotton to move through.” (14:29) -Tameka
• “Everyone has a responsibility to figure out what their role is in doing their part. You walk around anywhere and there’s a recycling bin and they’re encouraging — hey, if that’s a plastic bottle, or if that’s paper or cardboard, put it here. So, everyone plays a role — we believe our programs really can change the world for the better.” (21:18) -Tameka
• “This is about bringing back livelihood, honor and justice into Black farming, Black cotton farming, Black production, and we can’t wait for anyone else to do it for us.” (38:04) -Tameka
• Bridgeforth Family Farms, Black owned & operated farm since 1877 (Seed2Shirt partner)
• Donate to Seed2Shirt’s Farmer Enrichment Program >
• Seed2Shirt Events
• Upcoming Farm Tours
• Seed2Shirt Website
• Follow Seed2Shirt on Instagram >

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In episode 305, Kestrel welcomes Lisa Diegel, the Global Sustainability Director at Faherty, to the show. A family business, Faherty is focused on making high quality clothing.

“They knew they wanted to do things differently and not follow that conventional way of take > make > waste in the fashion industry. They wanted to build a feel-good brand. And I think to do that, you need to be accountable and you need to take responsibility for the products you put out into the world.” -Lisa

As we’ve explored on past episodes, the fashion industry has a deep history of appropriating and stealing ideas and designs.

Our guest Manpreet Kaur Kalra, back on episode 203, said it so potently – “Fashion has been built on appropriation — it has been built on basically, stealing designs and concepts from communities that have been historically marginalized, and basically, reframing them to be quote unquote minimalist or really ethnic or boho chic.”

This week’s guest (who is of First Nations heritage) works with a company that used to be one of those so-called appropriating offenders. And this is something they acknowledge blatantly on their website, stating –

“For years, the fashion industry has exploited and appropriated Native prints — and for years, so did Faherty. Now that we know better, we must do better.”

This is not something you typically see a fashion brand acknowledge in such an upfront way to their shoppers. It feels like an important and meaningful step forward in healing some of the extensive damage that comes from these extractive histories.

You may be asking – what does doing better mean in practice to Faherty? To start, it means modeling a mutually beneficial relationship with Native and Indigenous artists, it means respecting ancestry, land, community and stories. And it means doing a lot of listening and a lot of learning.

With the role of Global Sustainability Director, this week’s guest has a lot on her plate – but she’s also very tuned into the importance of slowing down in order to be able to continue doing this work.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “So, for me, the appeal really was working for a smaller family-run business. You know, I had been working for large corporations and parent companies for about 15 years. And I felt like in this role, I could build a strategy using the knowledge and the skills that I had acquired over the years, but also be able to be really involved. It’s really nice to be able to Slack or text the cofounders and get an answer immediately without having to go through these corporate tiers of hierarchy and weeks or months of time to get approval on things. And then the cherry on top, as a Native person, as a person with this heritage, I was just so impressed by the Native initiatives and the storytelling that Faherty was doing around these initiates.” -Lisa (12:58)
• “In practice, it really starts from the very beginning — from the concept meeting — where the team sits down with some of our partners and really talks to them about what do these designs mean to them, what does it mean to their people, what are the stories behind them? And then, they really support how these artists want to be represented in our modern culture without sort of that stereotypical image that maybe a lot of people might think of when they see or hear of Native American culture. I think that is very special and unique.” -Lisa (15:50)
• “How To Work In Sustainability At A Fashion Brand", article in Fashionista that Kestrel mentions
• Climate Optimism, book by Zahra Biabani that Kestrel mentions
• Faherty’s Native Initiatives
• Second Wave, Faherty’s new resale platform
• Faherty Website
• Follow Faherty on Instagram >

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In episode 304, Kestrel welcomes Eric Liedke, the co-founder and CEO of UNLESS, to the show. A collective of innovators, engineers, artists, and activists, UNLESS make plant-based streetwear designed to leave zero plastic waste.

“I think sustainability is one of those hygiene words at this point — like everybody can talk themselves into they’re doing sustainable things. I think we need to get more specific. I think as marketers and storytellers, we need to really be very clear with our consumers what we’re doing. And you know, this crewneck that nobody can see today that I’m wearing, it’s gonna last as long as anything else, but when you’re done with it, it will go harmlessly back to earth. And I’m using some of our old product and some of our scraps actually as feed for my raised bed gardens at home. This stuff works and it makes good, nutritious soil that we can grow roses or cotton or tomatoes out of.” -Eric

Have you ever heard that recurring question in the sustainability and fashion space? I’d say it’s also one that permeates the world of climate advocacy as well – and let’s be honest, it’s pretty binary-oriented in its framing.

I’m talking about the question of which is needed most – individual action, governmental action or corporate change. I mean, let’s be real – we are in a state of emergency here, so all hands on deck is preferable, and many of these overlap, but you know, the mainstream narrative continues to search for the golden ticket that will get us all out of this mess.

One thing I hear so much more nowadays than in recent years is – the need for corporations to change. There are petitions regularly circulated, there’s all the advocacy work organizations like Remake are doing pushing brands to sign onto the International Accord for garment worker safety. And in alignment with this, there is a lot going on with legislation to try to pass legal frameworks that would hold brands accountable to do better.

And on that corporate change note – at this current moment in time, we are amidst an era of strikes happening across different industries because the power holders on top don’t want to share with the folks working further down the hierarchy. From actors and writers in the entertainment industry to municipal workers and hotel employees, the pressure is on for corporations to change – to share a bigger piece of the massive pie they’re indulging in.

But also – it’s important to acknowledge that there are so many folks across the corporate space working in sustainability and beyond, and trying to challenge the system from within to change. And let’s be real – that’s not an easy task with all the current systems in place.

This week’s guest worked from the inside for a so-called power player for over 25 years trying to push for change, and then, he left to start his own company with a focus on collaborating with innovators, engineers, artists, and activists, to make plant-based streetwear that leaves zero plastic waste behind.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “I did as much as I could when I was at Adidas to turn us from a brand that was focused on just virgin polyester use — as for those that don’t know, 70% of fashion and especially sports brands are made from petroleum. It’s basically been this advent of petroleum-based product called polyesters or nylons or spandexes, but it all comes from petroleum-based products, which is forever material. When you start to become aware of that, and you start to become aware of the degradation these forever materials have on the planet, on our fellow species, on ourselves, you find it harder and harder to whisper yourself to sleep. And those voices that were personal to you, come up louder and louder in your head. And you can’t unhear and unsee the things you’re doing. So, at a certain point, you’re like ok, I need to step outside and take this industrial experience I have from 26 years at Adidas and my passion for a better way and helping solve the world’s problems, and combine it into one effort, and that really was joining forces with a band of likeminded people to create the UNLESS Collective.” -Eric (9:30)
• Natural Fiber Welding (one of the companies UNLESS partners with) — listen to past episode 124 featuring their founder Luke Haverhals
• “Luke obviously has this unique innovation of plant-based leather, 100% plant-based leather (the only one I’ve found by the way), and there’s a lot of plants being used for leather-type material — whether it be grapes or apples or coconut or cactus, I think there’s a lot of solutions out there. Most of them, if not all of them that I’ve found, are fillers for polyurethane which is another form of plastic and also need to have backing, which they have to glue a synthetic backing on the back for stability.” -Eric (21:45)
• UNLESS Website
• Follow Eric on Instagram >
• Follow UNLESS on Instagram >

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In episode 303, Kestrel welcomes Natalie Shehata, Conscious Chatter’s new Social Media Strategist + Storyteller, to the show. A sustainable stylist, community organizer, speaker and writer, Nat brings exceptional experience and knowledge to how we approach storytelling.

“I feel as though storytelling for me has been a very powerful medium in being able to instigate change. I feel like stories really shift culture and they can shift culture on a really large scale as well. But personally for me, I’ve kind of learned so much over the years through storytelling. And I think it’s important that we kind of acknowledge that storytelling and stories in general is a vehicle for survival for a lot of people — for belonging, for connection, for hope. Stories are, especially for the BIPOC community as well, are our legacy in a lot of ways.” -Natalie

Welcoming Nat to join the Conscious Chatter team is an absolute dream — I don’t even know how else to say it. Being able to work alongside someone that I admire and respect on such a deep level is beyond incredible. And if you aren’t familiar with Nat, I’d also recommend listening back to episode 250, where she joined me for a conversation on why diversity can be tokenistic.

With this new shift in the Conscious Chatter dynamic, we put together this episode as a unique sort of refresh and check-in — to let you all know where we’re at with the show, what we’re focused on, and where we’re going.

Here are some of the key elements we explore:

• How Nat and I first came together and what it means to have her working on the Conscious Chatter team
• What storytelling means to Nat and some of the ways we align on the responsibility that comes with crafting narratives
• What is slow media and what does it look like in practice
• The challenges that come with telling stories through a slow media lens
• An update on when you can expect new episodes to drop
• Our big picture goals for the show (individually and collectively) and how we hope to continue infusing intentionality and care into the content we create

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “We really want to be able to ensure that the stories and perspectives shared by the guests on the show are kind of always in circulation. And I guess what I mean but that is — really making sure that the perspectives, the knowledge, the wisdom that people share throughout the show — it’s not a situation where a show is released, and then that’s it, we don’t go back to it and we don’t reference those ideas. We want to be able to go back to those episodes and to the guests that have appeared on the show, and really be able to continuously keep those perspectives in circulation, and kind of keep resurfacing those ideas.” -Nat (11:35)
• “Language is super important to both of us, and really thinking about the way that we phrase things, and making sure that it is accessible to as many people as possible, and that we meet people where they are at on their journey.” -Nat (20:40)
• “Often when we’re telling stories we have to market it or promote it in a way where this guest is knowledgable on this area — whatever that may be — but when you go back and listen to these people, because they are people, they are multi-faceted individuals, and they may speak on one issue, but when you go back to listen again and again to these guests, they have so much knowledge to share, on so many different topics, that may not be their field of “expertise”. For me, what I’m really wanting to do is share that with the community and share that as individuals we are multi-faceted and we have a lot of knowledge and deep wisdom. The more we humanize that knowledge, we realize that we’ve just got so much to offer, but also, that we are flawed as humans as well, and we’re all just at this trying to do our best.” -Nat (27:08)
• “We’re not getting into these states of mind where we’re having all these light bulbs go off or all the dots are connecting because we’re not giving ourselves enough space without notifications interrupting us to get to those places.” -Kestrel (29:49)
• “It alway feels like you can never keep up, you’re further behind, there’s more things to read, more things to listen to, more things to watch, more things to catch up on, or more things you need to be posting — it all is just so much on a constant basis.” -Kestrel (34:55)
• The Root 6-Part Series Hosted & Co-Produced by Dominique Drakeford (mentioned by Nat)
• Whitney McGuire, Kestrel acknowledges her impact when reminding us that sustainability means getting active in your local community
• Conscious Chatter episode 250 (previous episode featuring Natalie)
• Follow Natalie on Instagram >

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In episode 302, Kestrel welcomes Jessie Frances (@cuppuccinosandconsignment) to the show. Highly knowledgeable on the world of preloved fashion, Jessie holds a BFA in Fashion Design and French with a Minor in Art History. Through her work, she shares ideas around luxury vintage savviness, smart travel tips, and slow-living hacks, and also consults companies on luxury resale.

“It is an addiction. Even when you look on YouTube and whatever social media, you see thrifting hauls. I remember hauls were just specifically for new items — you only did hauls with your fast fashion. It was very singular. Now, there are thrifting hauls multiple times a week. And we have just replaced fast fashion with thrifting.” -Jessie

I think it’s pretty undeniable that RESALE is having a moment.

If I think about the shifts in recent years, when it comes to the secondhand market, it’s overwhelming. I remember thrifting in high school, growing up in the midwest – and for me, it was always about searching for pieces that no one else had – and thrift shops were where I could find those unique pieces.

But the changes since then – almost 20 years later – are immense.

I was looking at thredUP’s 2023 Report, and in it, they say that – The global secondhand market is expected to nearly double by 2027, reaching $350 Billion. And the global secondhand apparel market is expected to grow 3X faster on average than the global apparel market overall.

Clearly, there is a lot of GROWTH happening in resale fashion.

This week’s guest is highly knowledgeable on the world of preloved fashion – she started thrifting as a kid out of necessity. As she reflects – at that time, you didn’t want anyone to see you at a thrift store and you didn’t want anyone to know you were wearing thrifted styles. So, she would always find ways to customize her secondhand pieces, to give them an extra edge.

Since then, as I mentioned, a lot has changed. This week’s guest now consults companies on luxury resale.

We talk about whether this growth in resale is connected to folks simply transitioning their fast fashion addictions to secondhand instead. We talk about luxury’s obsession with exclusivity and how that conflicts with the potential accessibility of the resale market. And we touch on the gentrification of thrifting and how this weaves into the luxury resale conversation today.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “So, it’s being very, very strategic when you’re shopping with thrifting because it really is a thrill. It has turned into like modern-day hunting, it’s for sport now. People get such a thrill because the prices for the most part (depending on what city you’re in), the prices are so good that you just want to buy, buy, buy. You love saying — look how much I got for $100. But you want to know — how much out of the $100 haul are you keeping? Are you returning $85 of that to your next thrift store run? So, it’s really being strategic when you are thrifting.” -Jessie
• “Not just in fashion, we’ve all seen what happens when big brands come in and take over smaller ventures. I mean, look at ride sharing, without naming any names. You see how it changed things. So, it makes me question — ok, now you’re offering me, let’s say 80% of what I paid. Now, once you wipe out these smaller consignment shops, once you wipe out these smaller resellers, what’s gonna happen then? Cause now you have the upper hand. So, are you now gonna offer me 50% for what I purchased? Or are you just not gonna offer anything at all because you know — there’s no competition.” -Jessie (27:19)
• “How Are Luxury Brands Creating (Even More) Scarcity In The Resale Era?”, article in Fashionista Kestrel mentions
• “It’s accepting, knowing and being secure in your style. Once you know who you are, you’re not swayed by a trending hashtag, by what the princess is wearing — when those things no longer matter, when you know who you are, it makes life so much easier.” -Jessie (47:07)
• Cappuccinos and Consignment Blog
• Follow Jessie on YouTube >
• Follow Jessie on TikTok >
• Follow Jessie on Instagram >

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In episode 301, Kestrel welcomes Winona Quigley, the founder and CEO of Green Matters Natural Dye Company, to the show. Based in Lancaster County PA, Green Matters is dedicated to bringing pollution-free color to the textile industry by using all-natural dye ingredients.

“I think that what brands are going to have to embrace about working with more sustainable fibers and textile-making practices, is the fact that we are working with plants. Not just for the dyes, but for some of those fiber crops — they are plants. And it’s like winemaking, in that we need to think about production not as how do we make something identical a hundred thousand times, but how do we build production systems that not only account for, but embrace the organic nature of working with plants.” -Winona

Something that has become a knee jerk response – whenever someone starts a business endeavor within the sustainability space – is to ask about how SCALABLE that venture is.

It’s a question that I found myself asking on a regular basis early on with the show 7 years ago, and something that I have become increasingly aware of in my discussions. I mean – it’s obvious once you step back and get a little perspective – we are all entirely entrenched in the prevailing ideals of our capitalistic system, and it makes us regularly think that in order for something to be successful, it must constantly grow from an economic lens.

I’m not saying we shouldn’t talk about scale, but maybe it’s time to reimagine what it actually means. Especially for those of us advocating for a different fashion system than what currently exists.

This week’s guest is specifically working to scale natural dye techniques through their professional fabric dyeing services. A lot of the time, we hear about natural dyeing on a very small scale, a craft that folks experiment with at home or in textile art spaces. But for our guest’s company, they have an intention to do natural dyeing at scale, per se.

We talk about what SCALE means for them, how they’re reimagining it from various angles, and how “limits” come into play with the way they approach scaling in practice.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Brooklyn Tweed, company Winona mentions (first big project she did was for them)
• “So that’s a really interesting challenge, I think, for our generation of business owners is — how can we solve the problem we’re hoping to solve, make enough money to pay everybody, and not expect to embark on this endeavor just because we’re trying to make as much profit as possible.” -Winona (28:53)
• Westfield Flower Company, a dahlia supplier Green Matters works with
• Chipotle merch naturally dyed with avocado pits by Green Matters
• Blue Light Junction, Winona mentions their work
• Kenya Miles (founder of Blue Light Junction)
• Stony Creek Colors, company growing indigo in the U.S.
• Organic Living Blue Indigo (company based in Bangladesh)
• Green Matters’ Community Indigo Dye Vat
• Green Matters Events
• Green Matters Website
• Follow Green Matters on Instagram >

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In episode 300, Kestrel welcomes Dr. Lisa Erdle, the Director of Science and Research at 5 Gyres, to the show. A microplastics researcher and lifelong sailor, Lisa is passionate about keeping waterways clean for wildlife and people.

“A load of laundry can shed anywhere in the range of hundreds of thousands to millions of microfibers, depending on how you wash and what you wash. There can be 850 times more microfibers shed from a high-shedding item compared to a low, so the textile design really matters. And washing isn’t the only source of microfibers to the environment — we know there’s also dryers, carpets and upholstery, cigarette butts, wet wipes, there’s quite a long list. But the one that we know the most about, and one we have a solution for, is our washing machines.” -Dr. Lisa

Today, we hear a lot about microfibers in our oceans and waterways, and how they are an issue we’re facing. There are consistent news articles out there about it. At the same time, the narrative is generally very much aligned with polyester and synthetics and you know, the plastic side of things.

But as this week’s guest reminds us – all fabrics shed microfibers. And it’s important to note that when fibers shed from our clothing, it’s not just the base fiber that is of concern – whether it’s cotton or polyester, a natural fiber or a synthetic material – these fibers are generally also carrying some sort of chemical cocktail (a mix of dyes and treatments and coatings that are added to the fabric throughout the supply chain).

You may be asking – how are all these fibers ending up in our waterways? According to researchers, the biggest culprits are washing machines. But these microfibers can also shed from dryers and even simply from walking around throughout the day.

All of these layers make understanding the impacts of microfibers on people and the planet very complex. But as much as we don’t know, we also know enough from a scientific lens, to act. There are solutions out there that can at least help slow down the rate of microfibers released into the environment.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “The Widespread Environmental Footprint of Indigo Denim Microfibers from Blue Jeans”, study Kestrel mentions
• “Capturing microfibers – marketed technologies reduce microfiber emissions from washing machines”, research paper that Dr. Lisa contributed to
• “Washing Machine Filters Reduce Microfiber Emissions: Evidence From a Community-Scale Pilot in Parry Sound, Ontario”, research paper that Dr. Lisa contributed to
• The Microfibre Consortium, organization that Dr. Lisa mentions
• Info about AB 1628 (California filtration bill)
• “The research on microfibers shows that used clothing typically sheds less than new clothing, poorly constructed garments shed more microfibers than well constructed garments. So, buying used when possible, or buying higher quality garments and washing less, washing cold — these are all things that can reduce your microfiber footprint.” -Dr. Lisa (40:58)
• 5 Gyres video about textiles & microfibers
• 5 Gyres video about textiles & microfibers (in Spanish)
• More on 5 Gyres research
• 5 Gyres Website
• Follow 5 Gyres on Instagram >

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In episode 299, Kestrel welcomes Liz Spencer, the natural dye wizard behind Dogwood Dyer, to the show. With experience in both tending organic natural dye gardens and coaxing color from plants, Liz has devoted her artistic practice to discovering as much as possible about color that can come from plants.

“That’s sort of the pathway to understanding — is having the time to be intimate with one thing in particular like indigo or any dye plant, especially if you’re growing your color, or even growing your own fiber — is spending a whole year just getting it to where you have the raw material, and then starting the process of creating the color or creating the textile. It really affords you ample time to ask many questions, and to holistically get to know it.” -Liz

Something that’s super important to me within this conversation is cultural sustainability – and ensuring we are acknowledging and respecting the roots of cultural traditions and craft techniques that have origins within many Black and Brown Indigenous communities.

As many of you have heard my guests and myself talk about over the years – the mainstream sustainability movement has done a lot of stealing and co-opting of knowledge and ideas, without crediting where these concepts originated.

Ever since I read an article by Nathalie Peña in Katie Pruett’s Ethical Style Journal, I instantly think of these realities with regard to natural dye techniques.

For example – the dusty pink color, also known as millennial pink – that has been trending for the last several years has origins in Mexican culture, with the color being derived from avocado pits. But rarely do we hear this origin story from natural dyers or folks using these techniques in the space today.

This week’s guest has a voracious curiosity when it comes to all things natural dyeing. She has been growing plants for natural color and experimenting with adding color to garments using natural dyes for years now.

As a white woman in the sustainability space, I admire the deep learnings Liz has collected, with regard to the cultural origins attached to the techniques she uses, and the ways she continues to work to find creative and thoughtful ways to honor these roots.

We get into these layers, as well as more on the differences between synthetic, biosynthetic and natural dyes, and some nuanced thoughts around the so-called scalability of natural dyes.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “Cultural Sustainability and Natural Dyes in Fashion”, article from Ethical Style Journal that Kestrel mentions in intro
• “What are biosynthetic dyes & could they replace the toxic petroleum-heavy ingredients in today's predominant indigo garment dye?” (Conscious Chatter episode 274 that Liz mentions)
• “Those stable colors, I feel are worth the investment, but it just takes more time. And so, that’s the biggest difference between retrieving brilliant colors with natural dyes vs synthetic dyes. And each has its consequence. One is — with natural color, more time investment. And then, one is — with synthetic dyes, the potential for having to problem solve when it comes to the product, the potential toxicity of synthetic dye effluent and what’s left over that’s really not biodegradable.” -Liz (29:27)

• “I think it’s really important for anyone that gets into natural dyeing or starts on a path to do conscious digging and question-asking when sourcing the dyestuffs, and then of course working with them. Because you invariably will uncover complicated and painful context of history of these beautiful colors. I always recommend too — if you have the privilege to work with any of the dyes, in situ of their native habitat that they come from, or if you’ve worked with any of the dyers who hold the dye knowledge within their cultural and historical lineage — to share their work and to encourage others to seek out from them, to go and learn from them if they’re seeking students. It’s really important to understand the provenance and the historic context of the material for the artist, I believe — it’s part of exploring the dyes and then paying respect to all of those who have contributed to millennia of this knowledge base that we all now benefit from.” -Liz (35:26)

• Stony Creek Colors American Grown Indigo

• Natural Dye Podcast Highlights Listing BIPOC Natural Dyers/Artists/Farmers/Educators
• Green Matters Natural Dye Co & Botanical Colors (natural dye houses scaling dye production in the U.S.)
• 'Earthcolors by Archroma' (making biosynthetic natural dyes from agricultural waste)
• Bio Black Dye by Nature Coatings (biosynthetic dye made from wood waste)
• The Dogwood Dyer Educational Subscription 'A Year in Natural Dyes' (natural dye knowledge for anyone)
• Dogwood Dyer Website
• Follow Liz on Instagram >

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In episode 298, Kestrel welcomes Anjana Baburaj to the show. An impact-focused strategist and communications specialist, Anjana works with mission-driven organizations to leverage communication platforms to increase visibility and achieve sustainability and impact goals.

“No matter how much we try to control — if we keep overconsuming, we’re not getting anywhere with anything that we’re doing for sustainability. So, that is one of the reasons I wanted to know — why is this happening? And that’s how I got into my research.” -Anjana

If you’ve been following along over the last couple of years, I have often brought up the links between fast fashion and fast media. In today’s world, I believe the only way to slow down fashion is to also slow down media – since fashion and media are intrinsically linked predominantly around driving consumption.

This leads me to this week’s guest, who recently conducted some powerful research focused on fashion, social media, and consumption.

Have you heard of the TikTok Shein haul trend? You may have seen it – basically, it involves individuals sharing all the items that they purchased from ultra fast fashion brand Shein in a video (or haul). Sometimes they disclose how much money they spent on the clothing, and as this week’s guest concludes, it’s largely interconnected to showcasing social status.

The United States is Shein’s largest market – I have personally experienced their aggressive social media tactics – I get these messages that are tagging me in a visual telling me how to become a Shein ambassador. I feel like I am constantly flagging them as spam and blocking the accounts, but they never stop rolling in.

The surprising thing is that it’s not Shein’s actual influencers or paid partners that drive the company’s sales – instead, it’s User Generated Content, which is basically content individuals post on social media without receiving any payment. They do it at their own will, and it’s fueling the continual growth of this ultra fast fashion brand.

There is so much to break down when it comes to these layers — tune in to hear more directly from Anjana.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “The reality is that we will always be pressured to consume more — that is how business works. Because the idea of growth is tightly linked to economics of sale, and that is how even the fundamentals of GDP work. And we can see that the developing countries will soon catch up with the developed nations in terms of the amount of consumption, which is bad. But to change that, the definition of growth should change — GDP should probably not be the sole indicator of how a nation is classified as developed. And systems should change. This will take more time and effort, but reducing consumption and choosing wisely, even it is from a mass-market brand, can be done faster if individuals and communities engage in conscious consumption.”-Anjana (35:53)
• Connect with Anjana on LinkedIn
• Anjana’s Website
• Follow Anjana on Instagram >

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In episode 297, Kestrel welcomes Lizz Leral, the Executive Director of Quilting for Community, to the show. A nonprofit organization, Quilting For Community is focused on building community by teaching the art of quiltmaking.

“The act of focusing on such a small area of the world — nothing else exists in that little area but that piece of fabric, and whether you’re measuring or you’re cutting or you’re pressing — and my experience has been that when you’re in that state, the answers for the other questions come to you.” -Lizz

Over the last several years, I’ve been super curious about the links between activities we do with our hands and our mental health. I’ve read research about how quilting or other crafting activities can reduce overall stress and provide benefits for our mental health.

There’s this idea of being in the FLOW state, or this feeling of being entirely in the moment and hyper-focused, and in a sort of zone.

Amidst today’s world where speed reigns above all else in many circumstances, this is something that I find very interesting. According to books like Stolen Focus, we are having a harder and harder time accessing the flow state today – because we are constantly interrupted by a text or an email or a DM or whatever other random notification that comes through.

Or let’s be real – we also just get that urge to check our email or texts or IG or whatever, because most of us are addicted in one way or another to our tech.

In the book I mentioned, Stolen Focus, it’s explained that if you get interrupted while focusing on something, on average, it takes 23 minutes for you to get back into that state of focus.

But like I mentioned, certain HAND-ORIENTED activities can help transport us to that special place. One of them being – QUILTING.

This week’s guest has a powerful story that led her to quilting. After feeling the significant mental health benefits of it herself, she’s now found creative ways to share it with others through her nonprofit.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “I know that it’s possible to do things and to have an impact on your community using the things that already exist. Sometimes people have an idea to do something, and what stops them is — oh, how can I afford this and I’m going to have to get all these things. And they go on Amazon and they add it all up, and they say: I can’t do it. And I think we’re missing that — look a little deeper; everything you need is here.” -Lizz (29:02)
• “The relationship between quilting and wellbeing”, research from The Journal Of Public Health
• The Third Place, mentioned by Lizz (the places you go when you aren’t at home or work)
• Quilting For Community’s Website (access free quilting classes there)
• Follow Quilting For Community on TikTok >
• Follow Quilting For Community on Instagram >

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In episode 296, Kestrel welcomes Kelly Drennan, the founder of Fashion Takes Action, to the show. A Canada-based non-profit, Fashion Takes Action works to remove barriers to sustainability through education, awareness, research and collaboration.

“We often talk about our school program, and just fashion is inherently cool, you know. And so, we’re able to really, through our school program, touch on some of these bigger, broader climate change issues, but through the lens of fashion, which for kids is relatable and cool. They get up every day and they put on clothes, but they don’t get up every day and drive a vehicle or pay the energy bills or go grocery shopping. So, for us, it’s just a really great way to reach them and we try to do it in a way that’s cool.” -Kelly

Have you looked into educational programs around fashion and sustainability? Or maybe you have completed a program focused on sustainability or fashion and sustainability?

The options out there are definitely growing in the higher education realm, but I think there is still a lot of work to do when it comes to ensuring the curriculum becomes more holistic and includes the root issues that have led to why we are where we are today.

But we are seeing changes at the higher education level, which is important. At the same time, what about kids? What about our youth?

When are they getting exposure to questions like:

• Who made my clothes?
• What are my clothes made out of?
• What does a fashion supply chain look like?

I hear whispers from folks in my community that little projects connected to fashion and sustainability are sneaking their way into elementary and high school education through educators who care about it, but on a large scale, I rarely hear that our young people are getting access to learn about why what we wear matters, on so many levels.

This week’s guest developed a program back in 2014 to help teach youth about the impacts of fashion. While it was delivered in person by educators for several years, their workshops are now available online.

As she says –

“If we can reach these young people before they’re out there in the world buying things, then, maybe we have a better chance at changing that behavior.”

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “We realized early on — we weren’t just going to be working with industry, because if consumers (I hate that word, I know we all hate that word now), but if the general public wasn’t aware of the negative impacts of the industry and what sustainable alternatives there were, then they weren’t necessarily going to have access to sustainable designers. And so, we always felt that we needed to keep educating the general public, while at the same time, supporting the industry.” -Kelly (10:22)
• My Clothes My World Program
• WEAR Conference
• Fashion Impacts 101 (RCGD Global x Fashion Takes Action Video Series)
• Fashion Take’s Action Website >
• Follow Kelly on Instagram >
• Follow Fashion Takes Action on Instagram >

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In episode 295, Kestrel welcomes Rayouf Alhumedhi, the creator of the hijab emoji, to the show. Deeply passionate about bridging the creative space and tech, Rayouf founded the hijab emoji project to push for digital representation for Muslim women around the world. She was named one of Time’s Most Influential Teens and Forbes 30 under 30; currently, Rayouf is a senior at Stanford majoring in Product Design.

“I think there needs to be more thoughtful exploration of when is it good to make new product and when is it even better to rethink existing product? Like I mentioned in my table furniture building project, I noticed my team and I were getting excited about —what if we do this and we do that and we do that. But at the end of the day, all of that requires extra junk in the world. And yes, it's an enhancement and yes, it's an add-on, but it's not necessary at all. So, I wish more design students or more product design students had that framework instilled in their minds as an educational toolkit.” -Rayouf

One point that comes up often in the sustainability and fashion dialogue is the way that our intentions are not aligning with our actions. There’s this sort of dissonance between what we say vs what we do.

As a report by Zalando from 2021 showed, we often say we believe in shopping more mindfully, but often don’t actually follow through when it comes to acting upon those ideas.

For example –

• While 60% of survey respondents said transparency is important to them, only 20% actively seek out information as part of the purchasing process.
• Or while 60% of consumers say repair, second-hand and sustainable disposal are important to them, but only 23% repair their clothes and 25% regularly buy second-hand.

While data can be skewed or interpreted in one way or another, the important sentiment that I take from this sort of information is that changing behavior is CHALLENGING, and it doesn't happen with the flick of a switch.

This is something that this week’s guest and I riff on throughout this episode – questioning the reasons why, trying to understand what’s leading to this disconnect, specifically analyzing how Gen Z fits into these behaviors, and ideating on what could potentially help propel more positive behavioral change moving forward.

But again – it’s not all on the individual. It’s also about corporations and regulation and DESIGN – something that this week’s guest is very passionate about. As she says, it’s important to design for the extremes, to ensure products are created with more accessibility and equity from the get-go.

Sidebar – this week’s guest is pretty legendary – she’s also the creator of the hijab emoji – which she developed 6 or so years ago, at the age of 16.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Oddli, brand Rayouf mentions
• “If being a part of your sustainable company or your sustainability vision is already an added value, buying something feels less of a burden. And if I know my friend is also buying it, naturally, I’m going to be pulled to it.” (21:46) -Rayouf
• “Teen behind new hijab emoji: ‘I just wanted an emoji of me’”, article in CNN about Rayouf’s work on hijab emoji
• Panel Discussion With Computer History Museum featuring Rayouf
• Dr. Marten’s Zine that Rayouf contributed to
• Rayouf’s Website >
• Follow Rayouf on Instagram >

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In episode 294, Kestrel welcomes Jeff Garner, the designer behind Prophetik, to the show. A romantic visual artist, pioneer and unconventional designer, Jeff’s sustainably-minded label Prophetik is focused on changing our perception of luxury.

“It’s interesting how everybody in their different segment of market just want to do the cheapest ingredient because they don’t expect the buyer to buy it, cause it’s more. So, it’s this idea that if you go into a design, and just try to make it the cheapest way possible, so that you can turn around and sell it for the most money, and nobody wants to spend extra to make something better. And I’m like — where have we gone in a society that we don’t want to carve our stone for our patio, let’s say … we don’t want to carve the wood to do our door.” -Jeff

This week’s guest was the FIRST sustainability-focused designer I discovered that I got really excited about. Over the years, he has dressed notable stars including Fleetwood Mac, Miley Cyrus, Cheryl Crow and Taylor Swift, among others.

A little background – I started a blog called Make Fashion Fair back in 2010. I had just finished my internship at People Tree in London, and was trying to find my voice in this space. My 4th blog post on February 20th, 2010, was titled – “elephants, ethics, and fashion”.

It featured two creatives I was drawn to at the time – musician Trevor Hall and this week’s guest. They both had this random connection to elephants and painting. Trevor Hall had a music video where he is getting painted by elephants, and this week’s guest had a collection that featured prints painted by elephants.

So – with that in mind, getting the chance to have this week’s conversation feels very circular.

In addition to continuing to challenge what fashion can look like on the runway and at a luxury level, this week’s guest is also behind a new documentary series that uncovers the fashion industry’s toxic secrets and highlights the importance of making and wearing nontoxic clothing.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “elephants, ethics and fashion”, Kestrel’s blog post from back in 2010 that feautures Jeff
• An article from Choc & Juice that highlights more information on the Singer Studies that Jeff mentions
• “My mom passed away from breast cancer, so I’m a firm believer that nylon and polyester bras are a huge part of breast cancer. Unfortunately, you cannot pinpoint and say this particular chemical in this bra caused the breast cancer, but it does have those toxins that are carcinogenic in it that have been proven, and research proves it, that do cause it.” -Jeff (23:12)
• “Chemicals from textiles to skin: an in vitro permeation study of benzothiazole”, published study that backs up Jeff’s theory of toxins entering the epidermis or skin through textiles / dyes
• Prophetik
• Follow Prophetik on Instagram >

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In episode 293, Kestrel welcomes Jenna Hanson and Jon Hershman, the cofounders of Revival Eyewear, to the show. Offering an extensive collection of deadstock vintage glasses and sunglasses, Revival Eyewear is dedicated to reminding us that it’s possible for old things to be elevated in both quality and style.

“I fell in love with the glasses and the idea that these were vintage but brand new. I had never in my life heard of that concept — deadstock, new old stock. It was so fascinating to me. At Jon’s shop in PB, I would take them out of their cases and just be like — what is this? This is a YSL from the 1970s, it has its original packaging, I can’t believe this exists.” -Jenna

Another niche (yet massive) realm of the fashion industry that we rarely discuss is the GLASSES industry. I’m talking sunglasses and eyeglasses – which I would say are a very integral part of the world of fashion and style.

This week’s guests started a company where they sell unworn deadstock frames from the ‘60s to the ‘00s. If they were made so long ago, how were they never worn? Where have they been sitting, waiting to find a face to wear them?

Well, we get into that.

Also, we get into the mud about the powerful Italian conglomerate that owns SO MANY PIECES of the eyewear industry – from insurance companies to eyewear brands to manufacturing to retail eyewear stores. It’s amazing the stronghold this megacompany has on today’s eyewear industry.

Just as we talk about with the fast fashion industry, the eyewear industry has lost much of its quality luster. We often refer to the planned obsolescence of our era, and how —

“They just don’t make them like they used to.”

Well, my guests actually have the knowledge to articulate what makes vintage glasses so different from their current counterparts. What has changed in how they’re made today, and what aspects of craftsmanship made them so elevated back n the day?

We also touch on the massive waste that the glasses industry is generating, considering the materiality and disposable approach to manufacturing them today. It’s wild to think that the styles made today may never be considered deadstock or deemed worthy to resell.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “Meet the Four-Eyed, Eight-Tentacled Monopoly That is Making Your Glasses So Expensive”, article in Forbes, that explores some of the power of Luxottica

• “Eyeglass Start-Up Ready to Battle Industry Titan, Sets Sights on Online Growth”, article in Yahoo Finance, that explores some of the power of Luxottica

• “We went to a conference last year called Vision Expo, and it was literally just Luxottica everywhere — so they own lenses, they own the lens manufacturer, they own the frame, they own the insurance, they own the places to sell the glasses. I don’t know how it gets any more monopoly than that. They own LensCrafters, Sunglass Hut, Target Optical, Pearl Vision, they own the big online store EyeBuyDirect, they own the insurance company EyeMed, and then, just about all of the brands that are inside of a LensCrafters or Sunglass Hut like RayBan, Oakley, Persol, Oliver Peoples - everything basically that you can find inside those stores, they also own those brands.” -Jenna & Jon (20:58)
• Revival Eyewear
• Follow Revival Eyewear on Instagram >

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In episode 292, Kestrel welcomes Denica Riadini-Flesch, a development economist and the director at SukkhaCitta, to the show. A social enterprise started in 2016, SukkhaCitta works to give women in rural Indonesia fair access to education and market.

“We have grown this company, this mission, these projects on the ground with that mindset that we want to build a model for change. So, we are not here to grow and make the most profits or be the best company in the market, you know, but it’s really a very different mindset. We’re here to connect consumers with the full story of how and why something was made.” -Denica

One aspect of the complex and opaque fashion supply chain that is often overlooked is the number of homeworkers that are an integral part of making our clothes today.

I was reaching for some sort of statistic, and that led me to Nest’s website – where they outline that upwards of 300 million people around the world work from home, engaged in primarily craft-based handwork. They are predominantly women, often invisible and without social protections.

This week’s guest, a trained economist, saw this firsthand when she returned to her home country of Indonesia and was working as a social development consultant. This work took her to villages across the country, where she saw women literally making things with their hands from their homes.

She even spoke to a woman who was dyeing garments in her home – she had been given toxic dyes to use and was feeling the harmful health effects of it directly, not only on her lungs but also on her surrounding environment, when the dye would be dumped in the nearby river, where her children would play.

These experiences led her to realize that it could be possible to make clothes in a different way – where regeneration is actually central to the process. And maybe the status quo could actually no longer be the status quo!

From working with women farmers to rediscover the regenerative farming techniques of their ancestors to finding ways to use natural and upcycled food waste dyes, this week’s guest is constantly asking more questions, seeking new solutions, and listening – to unearth the Indigenous knowledge that can help us reimagine what fashion can look like today.

It’s undeniable that she’s advocating – through action – to challenge the status quo.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Episode 284 with Angel Chang (Kestrel mentions it in the intro)
• “Through this work, I’ve come to realize that you can grow in a different way.” -Denica (48:16)
• “The new generation of companies should think about how we can grow with less.” -Denica (50:41)
• SukkhaCitta Foundation
• SukkhaCitta Social Enterprise
• Follow SukkhaCita on Instagram >
• Follow Denica on Instagram >

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In episode 291, Kestrel welcomes Abby Mills, aka @abbyontheinternet, to the show. A product designer working in tech in the San Francisco Bay Area, Abby is a style enthusiast, thrifter, beginner sewist, and a slow fashion + sustainability advocate.

“If we’re talking about the original definition of de-influencing, I think it’s great that more people are talking about this. There’s a wider conversation that’s happening now, and it’s this newer idea to a more mainstream audience. And I think that a lot of people are craving this conversation. I think there’s a strong response because people are pretty sick of being advertised to — they’re craving the substance, they’re craving this authenticity, they’re craving people with a unique point of view.” -Abby

You have most likely heard about this week’s topic – DE-INFLUENCING.

It’s something that started trending over on TikTok earlier this year, and has taken on many forms since then. In its origins, it was about becoming more critical about the things that we buy – and it started when a lot of so-called influencers started telling folks what NOT to buy, instead of their typical MO which is to focus on selling us things from their brand partners – things we more often than not, don’t need.

This is a refreshing idea – I mean, our feeds are flooded with sponcon these days. Apparently traditional influencer marketing was a $16.4 billion industry last year, and we are becoming increasingly aware of how much we are being marketed to on a constant basis.

But while the initial concept of de-influencing is refreshing, it’s definitely not new. There are several influencers or content creators who have been talking about issues around overconsumption and fast fashion and buying less for years now. Insert writer Aja Barber or creator Heidi Kaluza or drag queen Kimberly Clark – who was doing anti-hauls on YouTube 7 years ago, or this week’s guest – who sometimes calls herself an ex-influencer.

Over the last couple of months, we have seen the meaning of de-influencer shift rapidly. It’s gone from being about critiquing our consumerist society to instead, being co-opted by influencers and marketers as an opportunity to share why you shouldn’t buy this product and instead, you should just buy that product!

Before we dive deep into all these layers – let’s take a step back and momentarily examine what the origins of the influencer industry were all about.

This week’s guest reminds us that the influencer industry was built off of the idea that folks trust the authenticity of everyday people, aka influencers, more than actual brands.

But, aren’t we all struggling to trust influencers today? Aren’t we regularly overwhelmed with searching for some sort of authenticity, because so much of the content we consume was created, solely because someone was paid to create it?

As this week’s guest proposes – if influencers were actually doing their jobs (which includes being truthful and honest with their communities), would the de-influencing trend even exist?

If you can’t tell yet, we go down a labyrinth of a rabbit hole with this one – but a lot of the discussion circles back to this primary question —

Can de-influencing help us combat overconsumption?

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “Deinfluencing EXPLAINED Sustainability, Overconsumption, & Deifluencers” — video by Queer Brown Vegan that Kestrel mentions
• “The new TikTok trend is convincing people not to buy things”, article in The Washington Post that Kestrel mentions
• “Can Social Media’s New Deinfluencing Trend Really Encourage Us To Buy Less Stuff?”, article in British Vogue by Aditi Mayer that Kestrel mentions
• Aja Barber — one of the original folks who have been talking about de-influencing concepts (mentioned on the show)
• Heidi Kaluza — one of the original folks who have been talking about de-influencing concepts (mentioned on the show)
• Kimberly Clark — one of the original folks who have been talking about de-influencing concepts (mentioned on the show)
• Mandy Lee — trend analyst who has discussed de-influencing (mentioned on the show)
• “I started to understand what monetizing was all about — when I came into this industry, I naively did not understand how to get paid to be on the internet. And now, if you’re a content creator or a vlogger or an influencer or whatever you call yourself — if you’re monetizing, you’re in the advertising industry. And this is not a judgement, you know, the advertising industry is a huge industry — there are many smart and creative people. So, it’s not a judgment, but it’s a fact. If you want to be paid to be on the internet and you’re not being paid by your following, like through subscribers, you’re part of the advertising industry.” -Abby (15:14)
• “That’s something that I try to practice throughout many aspects of my life is allowing myself to have little moments of failures and mistakes and being kind with myself so that I can feel confident to try new things … mistakes are an integral part of the learning process. You know, they’re not accidental — they really are necessary if you want to learn and you want to grow.” -Abby (49:20)
• Follow Abby on Instagram >

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In episode 290, Kestrel welcomes Samata Pattinson, the CEO of RCGD Global, to the show. A women-led global change-making organization, RCGD Global is bringing environmental and social sustainability to the forefront of conversation and action within the global apparel and design industry.

“All I really want to be part of is helping other people see where they fit in this. And helping them to identify something that means something to them. It could be any of the things we talk about — it could be climate on a specific realm, it could be biodiversity through a specific realm, it could be women’s rights, it could be advocating for Indigenous or Black representation. It could be any of those things, but it’s almost like — let me try and help you see how you form a way of being in this conversation.” -Samata

Have you ever heard of the term generative conversation? It’s a newer concept for myself and it’s one that this week’s guest reminds us of.

On a basic level – generative conversations are conversations that involve genuine inquiry and sharing. They are conversations in which we engage in deep listening. They are conversations in which we feel truly heard and nourished – they involve a space where respect and trust are cultivated. And through generative conversations, they allow the possibility for expanded understandings and the discoveries of shared meaning.

In order to truly quote unquote move the needle in the sustainability and fashion space, these types of conversations are mandatory. As this week’s guest reminds us, when we talk about sustainability, we have to lead with questions … not our individual agenda. Questions welcome an openness to learning and sharing. And they help avoid the critical tone that can easily sneak its way into these discussions.

Because remember – how we have the conversation influences where the conversation goes.

Thoughtful communication is so KEY for this week’s guest. As the CEO of a global change-making organization, she is navigating storytelling with notable talent across a massive platform – the Red Carpet at the Oscars.

This year, she wrote the first ever Oscars Sustainable Dress code, that went out to every single attendee of this year’s event. Imagine condensing the many layers of sustainability and fashion into one document – she shares how she did it.

I love how she welcomes a constant expansion in the sustainability narrative, and never loses sight of a key ingredient: hope.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• RCGD Global Sustainable Style Guide
• “We do say we want representation, we want these varied voices, but we don’t talk about how much more interesting the conversation is, how much more enlightening the conversation is. The same way we will say — oh, you know, we have Indigenous communities protecting 80 percent of our biodiversity, but what we don’t say is like but they protect it better. Comparatively, like 30-40-50 percent better growth biodiversity of fauna and flora. So, it’s not just saying like, this should exist — it’s saying it’s more interesting, it’s more expertise, it’s more engaging, why aren’t we doing more of it?” -Samata (30:22)
• Follow Samtata on Instagram >
• Follow RCGD Global on Instagram >
• Follow Red Carpet Green Dress on Instagram >

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In episode 289, Kestrel welcomes Amy Powney, a UK based fashion designer, creative director and activist living in London. After starting as an assistant who swept the cutting room floor, Amy worked her way up, and is now the Creative Director and owner at Mother Of Pearl. A luxury womenswear brand, Mother of Pearl celebrates individuality, authenticity and sustainability. Amy is also the star of a new documentary called Fashion Reimagined, that tells some of her story building Mother Of Pearl into what it is today.

“I guess growing up on a farm, growing up the way I did, working you know, in the bottoms of the supply chains and agriculture, et cetera, it just kind of — it felt homely and it felt raw and it felt honest and it felt important and it’s really motivated me even more to want to tell that story, and for us to really understand when we see our product, what people and places and craftsmanship has been added. And that we can’t just focus on this pure kind of end part, and we need to be really respectful and honored for the farmers and these workers — you know, without them, we don’t have clothes and without them, we don’t have food. I think we need to connect that supply chain up and respect it. And it’s given me so much more respect as a designer to what I’m doing and why I’m doing it.” -Amy

In Fashion Reimagined, Amy takes folks along with her on a journey to shift Mother Of Pearl toward a more sustainable direction. It all starts in 2017, when she wins the British Fashion Council/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund award and decides to invest that cash into tracing her supply chain back as far as possible to the raw materials.

The most exciting part of the film is watching them navigate their way through the sourcing process. We see their adventures in Uruguay to find a wool supplier, and their journey in Turkey to find a denim mill and factory, we see how they cultivate a relationship with a mill in Austria that uses steam rather than chemicals to soften the fabric, and of course, unexpected events happen, reminding us how important it is to be an exceptional problem solver in this industry.

The film culminates in the launch of the No Frills collection at London Fashion Week in September of 2018 – when Mother Of Pearl was the ONLY sustainable collection on the schedule. A reminder that this was only 5 years ago.

While we are undoubtedly seeing a lot of shifts in recent years – more brands showing more sustainably-focused collections, entire fashion weeks like Copenhagen dedicated to sustainability, and more mainstream discussion about it, Amy reminds us in the film that – “It’s not enough – we aren’t changing fast enough.”

As Pedro, the owner of Lanas Trinidad (Mother Of Pearl’s wool supplier), says in the film —

“We talk about sustainability and the environment – but we have to live the way we say.”

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “I guess, the highlights, albeit being obviously one of the hardest parts of the process, was just reconnecting with the people in the supply chain. You know, in the fashion industry, it’s notorious for promotion and sales and social media. We see fashion and we very much see it a kind of a glossy moment. And I think historically, a lot of the conversations around supply chains has been a bit boring and it’s turned people off. And I think there’s one thing learning about a supply chain or thinking about it, but another thing is when you actually meet these humans involved in it.” -Amy (17:11)
• “If you look at a cotton garment, a wool garment, a viscose garment — I mean, even if you get into polyester and synthetics; obviously it’s all been through these plastic processes and fundamentally, it is plastic. But its origin is actually oil, so we’re actually taking from the planet in a very raw way to make our products, but we’re so disconnected at the end. And actually, if we look at farming and agriculture, it’s exactly the same in fashion — it’s just it’s a few more steps back, and people just don’t connect the dots, and I think that’s the piece of education that we all need to understand to respect our things in a different way.” -Amy (21:54)
• Lanas Trinidad, Mother Of Pearl’s wool supplier
• Fashion Reimagined Website (Fashion Reimagined - in cinemas 3rd March, 2023 and available on Sky Documentaries and streaming service NOW from 9th April, 2023)
• Mother Of Pearl Website
• Follow Amy on Instagram >
• Follow Fashion Reimagined on Instagram >
• Follow Mother Of Pearl on Instagram >

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In episode 288, Kestrel welcomes designer, Trish Langman, to the show. With over 18 years of experience working with a long list of prestigious fashion brands, Trish is currently the Program Knowledge and Content Lead for the Fashion CEOs Accelerator program by Sovereignty, a partner with Argentinian NGO Hecho Por Nosotros and an advisor to the Board of Fashion Ghana, West Africa.

"Obviously, the companies need to be complicit — you know, they should stop making stuff. But the consumer, you know, because they’re uneducated, they don’t understand what they’re buying. It’s just a piece of clothing, but they’re not thinking about any consequences of how it’s made or what it does to them. Is it shedding microplastics, is it clogging the water? The consequences of you buying something that costs two dollars means that somebody’s not being paid somewhere.” -Trish

Have you ever thought about some of the basic knowledge that’s shared with us in primary school? I’m thinking about the practical information that can help us in our everyday lives.

For example – as this week’s guest mentions, the food pyramid is something most of us have probably learned about in school. (Ok, so I’ve read a plethora of concerns about the traditional food pyramid and how it was largely influenced by big business — hint, hint: grains, especially refined ones, are not necessarily the food we should eat the most of…) BUT the point here is, the idea of a balanced diet is relayed to us at an early age. It’s a basic component of the education system.

However – how often are kids learning about the ingredients used in our clothes? How often are we taught that the fabric used in our garments can come from a plant grown on a farm, or from fossil fuels that are processed into thread?

There are a lot of layers at play, when it comes to who can access which clothing options. But with that in mind … we should have the right to learn basic practical knowledge about clothing in school, beginning at a young age.

Because let’s be real – how many of us have finally been collecting pieces of this practical clothing knowledge as adults?

This week’s guest is very passionate about the power of education – for children, for everyday people, and for business owners. In one of her most recent endeavors, she’s working as the content lead for a new Fashion CEOs accelerator program that’s focused on empowering fashion entrepreneurs of color to collectively solve climate change and inclusion challenges.

The focus is on transforming entrepreneurs in a more holistic way through both access to capital and access to layers of education, with the intention of helping folks build more circular fashion brands.

As this week’s guest said in an article in Women’s Wear Daily –

“I have not seen this in the industry … I have not seen an accelerator that speaks to circularity, that speaks to sustainability and that speaks to the BIPOC community. It’s just something that’s not there.”

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “New Fashion CEOs Accelerator Set To Advance The Industry’s Sustainable Business Models and Its Racial Representation”, article in WWD that Kestrel mentions
• “You know, at the moment, every company has their sustainability manager, but it doesn’t really mean anything — it’s just the box they tick off. You know, they're ESG person, their social responsibility person ... not all, but a lot. So, just really making sure there’s that understanding, there’s that education, just the awareness.” -Trish (19:45)
• “People have changed I think, in terms of how they see the value of their business. I think a lot of people feel like their business has to, for them, mean more to them than just making money. It’s more about what they give back to their community in some way.” -Trish (30:52)
• “In order for us to sort of think about the future, science and design need to come together. You know, about a hundred years ago, science and design and arts were kind of almost interlinked — sort of the alchemy of them all together. And then we got more industrialized and technology took over, and they just seemed to separate.” -Trish (48:50)
• Hecho Por Nosotros Website >
• Sovereignty’s Website >
• Follow Trish on Instagram >
• Follow Sovereignty on Instagram >

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In episode 287, Kestrel welcomes Sage Paul, an award-winning artist and designer, to the show. An urban Denesuliné (Den-a-sooth-leh-nay) woman based in Toronto and a member of English River First Nation, Sage is the artistic director and founder of Indigenous Fashion Arts.

“There’s all this talk about sustainability and you know buy this or buy that, but the truth is, is that these corporations that are preaching this are just making too much. They are making too much, they are mass producing it, and the way that they mass produce it is unsustainable for the Earth. And so, it just doesn’t seem like they’re painting the full picture for everyone. But then going back to cost — is the fact that people aren’t getting paid enough in order to purchase items that are quote unquote sustainable, because the only thing that’s accessible are these mass-produced items.” -Sage

You may have noticed that the idea of sustainability is often aligned with luxury or having extra money to invest in less harmful things or less polluting options – for example, an electric car or organic produce or a more thoughtfully-made garment. These options generally cost more than the conventional option in our society.

While there are a lot of narratives challenging the eliteness of sustainability today, the mainstream conversation has been led by a very white and capitalist-centered idea that promotes buying this, instead of that product.

Like we talked about on last week’s show with Kristine of Doen, the sustainability conversation has been very binary in its approach – very good vs bad, and often, oversimplifies what quote unquote sustainability could look like.

Through several conversations on the show, we’ve explored how resourcefulness is a grounding pillar of true sustainability. But it’s not just resourcefulness, it’s also culture.

As this week’s guest shares, thinking sustainably and locally is innately an Indigenous cultural practice – and for many folks, it’s not anything shiny and new to be learned – it’s instead, an integral part of their own history and identity.

Of course, we all have a lot of unlearning and relearning to do – from an individual to a community to a corporate to a governmental level. At the same time – it’s important to acknowledge where some of the true knowledge lies in order to collectively move forward in a less harmful way.

I love how this week’s guest reminds us that it’s OK to actually ask the industry to change the way it works.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “Sustainable Clothing Is Fashion-Forward. Just Ask Innovative Indigenous Designer Sage Paul”, article in CBC that Kestrel mentions
• “I was raised with the values of only taking what you need and sharing those extras that you don’t need. And leaving no trace behind wherever you are. Using everything of what you do take, and giving thanks to those items. There’s also — in a lot of Indigenous cultures — there’s the value and understanding and belief that everything is living, everything has a spirit. So in that way, you would treat things as you would a friend or a family member, even though these are inadimate objects. So, your respect for these inanimate objects become far greater than just a disposable item or a short-term item that you purchase.” -Sage (11:22)
• “Changemaker Sage Paul On Building A Future For Sustainable Design”, article in FashionMagazine.com that Kestrel mentions
• “Your Clothes Are The Most Political Choice You Make Every Day”, TedTalk by Sage which was given in 2020
• Christian Allaire, writer at Vogue that Sage mentions — listen to the Conscious Chatter episode featuring Christian
• White Milano, trade show that Indigenous Fashion Arts is taking part in this year
• Section 35, Indigenous-owned brand that Sage mentions
• Indigenous Fashion Arts
• Follow Sage on Instagram >
• Follow Indigenous Fashion Arts on Instagram >

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In episode 286, Kestrel welcomes Kristine Kim, the Director of Impact at Doen, to the show. An LA-based women-run business, Doen offers collections inspired by a nostalgia for the coastal California of decades past. Doen recently unveiled their 2030 Roadmap, spearhead by Kristine, which provides an overarching blueprint for the business that will encapsulate both social and environmental elements of impact.

“We wanted to see our supply chain as a value chain — not just as a global supply chain that creates beautiful products, but also generates social and environmental value across that process as well, and to find opportunities for us to maximize that social and environmental value.” -Kristine

You’ve probably heard me say this on the show before, but the fashion and sustainability space has an issue with obsessing over binaries – I mean, it’s not the only space constantly questioning what’s right vs wrong or good vs bad.

These very simplified binary structures have been deeply embedded into our society – by way of concepts from white supremacy, colonialism, and the patriarchy. They also lead to a lot of pinning one perspective against another – which doesn’t help us move forward collectively, and instead tends to force us to choose one side over the other.

I’ve said it before and I’ll probably say it again, but there is a lot of gray area here — a lot of nuance that must be welcomed so we can actually get somewhere in our efforts to transform the fashion industry.

This week’s guest leads impact at Doen, and she is determined to accept the challenges that come with these gray areas.

As she said in a recent blog post:

“Like any industry, ours is often viewed—but does not actually function—within a black and white framework of right vs. wrong, sustainable vs. unsustainable. We know that labeling any brand as a “sustainable fashion brand” is greenwashing and misleading, but have we challenged ourselves beyond this? Every business on a sustainability journey will be confronted with a series of complex micro and macro decisions, often on a daily basis. The “right” answer for each organization looks different, and requires collective problem-solving and collaboration. Weighing all of the various trade-offs involved in any single action is the real impact work facing companies.”

This acknowledgement is key and I find it so refreshing coming straight from a Director Of Impact. She’s recently unveiled the company’s 2030 Roadmap, which represents their desire to do better in an imperfect industry.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “Kristine Kim On Defining Impact For Doen”, blog post Kristine wrote about the 2030 Roadmap
• “The main intention that I wanted to communicate to the organization was — this type of value chain work, this type of sustainability work in fashion is very not straightforward, it’s nuanced, multiple shades of gray, it’s not a black and white binary, right or wrong, you’re sustainable or you’re unsustainable. And trying to get comfortable with that level of ambiguity and unfamiliarity is what I really wanted the teams to openly embrace.” -Kirstine (21:38)
• Empower@Work, collaborative effort that Doen has joined
• Doen’s 2030 Roadmap
• Hand Me Doen
• Follow Doen on Instagram >

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In episode 285, Kestrel welcomes artist and illustrator Kelly Lottahall to the show. An artist and illustrator, Kelly incorporates preloved textiles and scraps into her unique works of art.

“It’s so like not that significant to most people, but for me — when it’s an item, a shirt, anything that’s used … this doesn't have to be vintage, I’m talking about stuff that’s just regular old stuff people don’t want. Not like vintage that’s 30 years old and super cool because it’s another era — no, I’m talking about like 10 years ago and you don’t care about it anymore. I’m like no, but I do — that could be really really cool, are you kidding me?” -Kelly

Have you ever noticed how the fashion world often orients itself as very separate from the art world?

They are obviously intertwined, and we see some overlap in the mainstream, but there tends to be a very distanced relationship – especially in the way that the fashion industry disregards the artistic aspects of fashion.

Here’s a couple examples –

• Garment construction has been devalued and not treated as though it is a REAL art form – both in the way sewers are paid (so often less than a living wage) when they are true artists; and also in how the industry has reduced our perceived value of garments through fast fashion and lower prices.
• There is the way that traditional fabrics and garments (which literally ARE art) have been disrespected and/or appropriated for the sake of commercialism – so stealing cultural fashion art and then replicating it in a way to simply make a profit off of it (in turn, totally detaching it from its artistic roots).

This week’s guest is literally BRINGING the fashion and art worlds together through her unique craft, and she’s repurposing quote unquote trash while doing it.

As she says –

“I like finding old things and turning them into new things. I like gadgets that used to work that don’t anymore. I like clothes that are too old to wear the original way, that can be recreated in a new way.”

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “I think there is something in me — there’s just this natural connection with somebody’s lived in story.” -Kelly (9:36)
• “The biggest thing we need to understand is that our culture — we just consume so much, excessively consume so much stuff that we just don’t have to have. But we also have to understand that brands — fast fashion brands — they also know this about us, and they’ve made it so easy for us to just click and buy the second we think about it.” -Kelly (32:14)
• “A Photographer, A Stylist, And An Artist” collaboration
• Kelly’s Website >
• Follow Kelly on Instagram >

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In episode 284, Kestrel welcomes designer Angel Chang to the show. Over the last eight years, Angel has been working with artisans in southwest rural China, making garments using zero carbon design / Indigenous practices (all-natural, locally-made, zero electricity).

“For the past 20,000 years, we’ve been making our own fabric and you know, using ingredients from our own backyard. It’s only in the last 150 years that electricity was invented, that chemical dyes were created, that plastic and plastic textiles were created. And all the stuff that we say is polluting for the fashion industry — well, that was all created in the last 150 years. So, if we really want to create quote unquote sustainable clothing, we just have to make clothing like it was before then, before the Industrial Revolution." -Angel

The sustainability and fashion narrative has an obsession with whatever is new and innovative. The focus regularly leans toward innovations in fabric development or tech-centered approaches to reduce carbon emissions. There tends to be this obsession with looking forward into the future, instead of slowing down to look back and maybe unveil what we could also learn from the past.

This week’s guest has deep knowledge around this. After falling in love with the hand-embroidered Miao traditional costumes exhibited in museums around the world, Angel found herself traveling to remote mountain villages in China, searching for the elders who made them.

And she ended up finding them.

Years later, she’s working in collaboration with several communities, in an effort to help preserve their textile traditions that over the last 30 years or so, have been eroding amidst China’s rapid modernization.

As she says –

“Saving these textile traditions is not just about preserving the past. They can also provide tangible solutions for an environmentally sustainable future.”

Turns out, zero carbon design – fashion that’s all natural and locally-made with no electricity — is possible.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “I think maybe it’s human nature to always want to find something that’s new and flashy. But I feel like it’s also feeding an obsession that will never be satiated. There’s always so much emphasis on technology and the future, and the thing is — technology is not going to be the thing that’s going to save us from climate change or whatever. We have to learn how to work with nature again.” -Angel (49:59)
• Alexis Bunten, Angel mentions them and some of their wisdom about the need to reconnect with our own roots
• “I think not being able to know who you are fuels a lot of insecurity and unrest internally. And so, I feel like learning about where we come from, our ancestral roots, and going to that physical land and just feeling it and spending some time there — I feel like that will give us a lot of solace and calm us down and bring more satisfaction to our hearts and souls.” -Angel (59:38)
• “How Ancient Textiles Can Help The Future”, Angel’s TEDTalk
• Angel Chang Website >
• Follow Angel on Instagram >
• Follow Angel Chang (the brand) on Instagram >

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In episode 283, Kestrel welcomes Kristin Morrison, the founder and designer behind All Species, to the show. A textile arts and design studio, All Species investigates the potential to create regenerative garments and textiles.

The below story was written by this week’s guest — it’s vision-inducing and reminds us of all the value that can come from further connecting ourselves to the natural world. It’s a beautiful way to envision what could happen if we work toward literally wearing the land around us.

“Can we imagine together the rumble of 200 hooves- the vibration spiraling up from your feet to your heart as you witness wooly Rambouillet sheep running in the distance. Your work boots kick up dust as you run alongside to get a closer view.

Sipping in the scent of wool, grasses, soil, you can sense the vitality of this wild ecosystem. Hooves till the soil…wild grasses are mowed by hungry animals and the carbon gases are sequestered safely back into the earth in the process.

Today is a special day, sheep shearing day. You are here to witness the fine wool be cut from the animals, leaving them with small bare bodies. Shearing is a necessity and tradition that keeps the sheep healthy and also provides a source of income for the farmer.

Giant pillows of dusty, grassy, potent wool will be sent to local mills to be made into cloth. Sensing the good intention of this in your belly, brings a feeling of wholeness to your being, like you are part of something bigger than yourself.

The wools is then spun and woven into exquisite cloth in artisanal mills. In your minds eye, you imagine the supple yet stiff fabric and how it will be draped into form passing through hands of more creators…how it might shift from cream to charcoal as it is colored with native plants-and eventually come together as calf length coat styled with other fibers from the land.

This embodied garment, carries the vibration of all the hands who have imbued love into its cloth and echos the rumble of those 200 sheep.”

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Sally Fox, one of Kristin’s fabric suppliers — listen to Sally on episode 267 of Conscious Chatter >
• CA Cloth Foundry, one of Kristin’s fabric suppliers — listen to founder Lydia on episode 135 of Conscious Chatter >
• “When we are wearing the land, we embody the frequency of it — it’s subtle quiet and yet, powerfully transformative. And in this, we are invited into the wisdom and the knowing, to what the lands needs to regenerate.” -Kristin (32:09)
• All Species website >
• Follow Kristin / All Species on Instagram >

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In episode 282, Kestrel welcomes Katia Dayan Vladimirova, a senior researcher at the University of Geneva, to the show. In addition to her research on fashion consumption, sustainability, and degrowth, Katia is the founder and coordinator at the Sustainable Fashion Consumption Network, and recently contributed to the Hot or Cool Institute’s Report – Unfit, Unfair, Unfashionable.

“Sufficiency is part of —very much interlinked with degrowth conversations today — it’s about abandoning economic growth in favor of wellbeing and enoughness as a positive vision of the future, in which we are content with enough and are not looking for more all the time.” -Katia

I’ve been thinking a lot about the sustainable fashion narrative (over the last decade or so) and as I see it, we’ve seen a few big stages in the conversation – mind you, there are so many more nuanced narratives that have been out there, but these are the narratives I’ve heard the most noise around:

Stage 1 – A focus on redirecting your consumption habits. The idea that you can be more sustainable with your wardrobe if you buy differently. The narrative was very much interconnected with capitalism and focused on the notion of BUY THIS, NOT THAT.

Stage 2 – A basic understanding that massive corporations are the biggest culprits of carbon emissions and human rights violations in fashion. The narrative shifted a bit away from blaming the consumer and a bit toward highlighting the need for brands to change. This also involved an acknowledgement of the important role that legislation can play in transforming the industry. This was when we saw the rise of the fashion activist.

Stage 3 – (This is the stage I believe we are currently amidst.) It’s a combination of the previous stages, with greater context and more specific recommendations on HOW to truly make an impact. It involves an understanding that there is not one specific avenue to change the way fashion currently operates – but instead, we need all hands on deck, and multiple avenues working to address the industry’s inequities.

This week’s guest was one of the authors of a recent report that came out by the Hot or Cool Institute. I feel like the findings in this report directly assist in providing specific ways that a so-called CONSUMER can transform their behavior to make measurable impacts on climate change (something I’m seeing as an integral part of this Stage 3 we are currently amidst).

In the report, it highlights that – “If no other actions are implemented, such as repairing/mending, washing at lower temperatures, or buying second-hand, purchases of new garments should be limited to an average 5 items per year for achieving consumption levels in line with the Paris Agreement – to keep the average global temperature rise below 1.5 degrees Celsius by 2030.

This is very exciting – to see a report tell us a target number – to let us know that we can still buy clothing, but if we can all reduce our purchasing to only 5 garments per year, we can stay within planetary boundaries.

Tune in to hear more from this week’s guest on HOW MUCH IS ENOUGH? when it comes to our fashion consumption.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Hot or Cool Institute’s Report "Unfit, Unfair, Unfashionable: Resizing Fashion for a Fair Consumption Space"
• Sustainable Fashion Consumption Network, international research network on sustainable fashion consumption
• "Consumption Corridors in Fashion: Deliberations on upper consumption limits in minimalist fashion challenges", Katia’s article that explores how much is enough
• “When we’re talking about the key driving force behind the growing emissions in fashion — these are the wealthiest 20%. And we may think that, wealthiest 20%, oh this is somewhere far away from us. But if we look at the numbers — in Germany, to be within the wealthiest 20%, the individual income has to be over 3.2K Euros per month. So, many people who are participating in policy conversations, in research — many people who are asking these questions actually are within the richest 20 percent.” -Katia (26:17)
• “Those who really should change is the middle class and upper middle class who can afford to buy better, but they choose not to.” (27:22)
• “The positive message here is that when we’re talking about staying within planetary boundaries, we’re not talking about having 2 pairs of underpants, 2 socks and a pair of jeans for the whole year — that’s not the case. We actually have a very generous allowance — our allowance to stay under the 1.5 degree limit is higher than the number of pieces that a woman in France used to have in the 1960s in her wardrobe. So we’re really very generously allowed to experiment.” -Katia (29:30)
• “Citizen Insights: Clothing Longevity and Circular Business Models Receptivity in the UK”, WRAP study that Katia mentions
• Follow Katia on Instagram >

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In episode 281, Kestrel welcomes Sarah Danu, the founder of Danu Organic, to the show. Danu Organic is focused on making clothing that is healthy for our bodies, the earth and everybody involved in the growing and making process of our garments.

When it comes to food, we are constantly bombarded with messaging around healthy choices, and we have been taught to weigh which ingredients or products are the HEALTHIER option. However, when it comes to our clothes, do you ever hear folks question whether or not a garment is HEALTHY?

This week’s guest, Sarah, makes what she calls – HEALTHY CLOTHES.

While it’s often overlooked, when we put on clothing, its components can enter our body, which can impact our overall health. For Sarah, a personal health crisis years ago opened her eyes to this very real discovery. When an organic underwear set turned her skin red – she knew there was more to uncover beyond just the fiber choice – to truly understand what our clothing contains.

While we’re starting to hear warnings from experts about how toxins are being discovered in fast fashion garments, the research on the direct impact of wearing toxic clothing is minimal.

But if we look to anecdotal examples, there are multiple pieces of evidence that showcase the impacts of toxic clothing. I have heard numerous stories from folks who had some sort of health crisis, that they then discover was impacted by their clothing.

So what does healthy clothes really mean?

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Vreseis, Danu Organic uses some of Sally Fox’s naturally colored cotton — listen to our show with Sally here >
• Danu Organic’s new jeans
• Follow Danu Organic on Pinterest >
• Follow Sarah on Instagram >
• Follow Danu Organic on Instagram >

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In episode 280, Kestrel welcomes Nadia Bunyan, a fashion designer & the cofounder of Growing A.R.C., to the show. Growing A.R.C. is a nonprofit that creates spaces and opportunities for people to activate, reciprocate and cultivate their relationships with all beings. Through plants, material culture, and bioregional design, they are engaging in a conversation on sustainability through active participation.

What started as an experiment – tossing some flax seeds into the ground in the backyard, has now led to the creation of a community-oriented nonprofit, that’s using the concept of farm to closet to shift peoples’ mindset on consumption; reinforcing their connection to the local environment and expanding their understanding of biodiversity to include the diversity of human perspectives, and experiences from diverse communities (because while we are trained otherwise, yes – we, humans, are also a part of nature).

Nadia gives us an education on the need to try new things, to jump in without the fear of making mistakes, and to embrace those so-called failures along the way. As she tells us, “No expert becomes an expert without first having tried something.”

With over 20 years of experience working as a fashion designer, she started growing flax – has now harvested it with other collaborators, and is working toward spinning and weaving it into linen fabric.

Such a reminder that there is so much beauty that can be found through the act of stepping outside of your comfort zone and opening yourself up to learning new things.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “You can plant, you can craft, you can knit, you can do what have you. But we’re around each other and in those moments, we’re talking. And that’s the cultivation — not just of the plant, but of community. You need to put into your community, you need to support, you need to create spaces for that to happen, and you need to give space for that to grow.” -Nadia (25:38)

• “So, to grow the flax, it’s a period of about 80-90 days, to get it to the right maturity, so that you have fiber. And that changes, depending. You can harvest the flax at different times, depending on how fine you want the flax to be. Full germination to get seeds is 100 days. So, when you take it out at 100 days, then you have the seeds, but you’re gonna have a very rough kind of fiber. We’ve experimented with both and left some plants in a little longer so that we would have seeds for next year, and also to see how thick that fiber is going to be.” -Nadia (36:48)

• “How the pandemic transformed one Montrealer's relationship to her backyard and her world”, article in CBC that features Nadia

• Interview with Nadia on CBC, starts at around 12 minutes into the video
• Follow Growing A.R.C. on Facebook >
• Follow Nadia on Instagram >
• Follow Growing A.R.C. on Instagram >

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In episode 279, Kestrel welcomes Jono Salfield, the cofounder of Afends, to the show. A sustainability-focused brand based in Byron Bay, Australia, Afends recently started their own Hemp R&D facility – Sleepy Hollow Farm — delving into farming to grow their own hemp for future collections.

“Sustainability is just an evolution and being more innovative and looking at alternatives and trying things, to basically improve the way that we impact. Because we’re always gonna impact. And if you say that you’re not impacting, then you’re lying, really.” -Jono

We’ve definitely explored HEMP on past shows. We’ve explored the challenges in cultivating the fiber commercially, due to legislation that prevented that for the last century or so. We’ve talked about the many uses of the plant – from feeding to housing to healing to clothing you.

And this week, we’re talking about how to actually GROW THE PLANT for fiber production.

Our guest, Jono, is the cofounder of an Australia-based brand, Afends, and now, you could also say, a hemp farmer. Two things I very rarely encounter TOGETHER across my work in this space.

In 2021, he and his cofounder purchased nearby farmland to build a hemp R&D facility – Sleepy Hollow Farm. And recently, they harvested their first fiber, impressively growing enough to replace the hemp used in their current line. Throughout our chat, we get into the why, the how, the challenges and the wins they’ve experienced in their first foray into hemp farming.

But for real – how do you go from running a brand to buying farmland, getting your hands in the dirt and figuring out how to actually grow fiber!? As Jono tells us, “we kind of jump into the deep end a lot.”
I’d say so.

He shares more on why hemp is so freaking amazing (from both a farming and carbon-capture lens), the general process involved with retting and decordication, the challenges that still exist to turn the plant fiber into actual fabric, and more.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “What we aim to do is show Australia, or even the rest of the world, that hemp is a fiber which can 1) be easily grown, 2) be potentially that next big fiber that can help decrease a bunch of the impacts that growing conventional cotton has.” -Jono (17:26)
• “For us, looking at the farming from seed to skin was something really important to us, because yeah, you can go online and you can research everything until you’ve seen what everyone’s written. But I think there’s something really important about seeing things firsthand and discovering what it entails to do it yourself.” -Jono (17:55)
• “The type of plant that we need to grow for textiles is fast-growing sativa plant, which we needed to get to maximum height and it needs to be super dense. The denser, the more plants in a small area, the better, because you’ll be able to grow more fiber, basically. Sourcing that seed was the first major challenge.” -Jono (20:18)
• Retting Process = hemp gets cut down and left in the field to basically let the microbes start to help separate the fiber from the hurd
• Decordication = separating the hurd from the fiber // the long stalk has fiber on the outside and hurd on the inside
• “We’re not able to make that fiber into actual textiles in Australia, there’s just no facilities set up. So, we have to send it to China, to where we actually construct and make the textile material. And look, ideally, on a perfect sustainable level, everything’s just done within a few kilometers of where you’ve grown it, so the impact’s as small as possible. But, we’re not there yet.” -Jono (24:55)
• “The other major positive behind it is that nothing goes to waste — especially when you’re growing fiber — because you’ve got this super dense field of really tall, stick-like plants, basically. There’s a little bit of leaf on top, but it’s not a thick cannibis plant with heaps of leaves and buds and stuff. But everything gets used. The hurd gets used for building, and then you’ve got the textiles from the fiber. So, the whole plant gets used. It’s quite incredible in that degree.” -Jono (29:03)
• Watch Weed Need Change Hemp Docu-Series >

• Afends Website >

• Follow Afends on Instagram >

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In episode 279, Kestrel welcomes Shubhi Sachan, a multidisciplinary designer and the the founder of Material Library of India, to the show. A research and design space, Material Library of India is the first material library in India, and is focused on remodeling the use of industrial & agricultural waste materials, by combining the knowledge and skills of traditional crafts with modern materials.

"We are not talking about waste holistically. And to be able to get the best output in my experience when you’re working with recycling or post-consumer for any industry (not just picking on textile industry), you have to think about system change, because the more marriages you make while making that particular product or a material, the more complex the recycling cycle is. And the more complicated the recycling cycle is, the more difficult it is to get anything out of that, at the end of life.” -Shubhi

When we talk about textile industry waste – what comes to mind? For me, it’s fabric piling up, off-cuts scattered about, rolls and rolls of fabric, and heaps of garments that were overproduced and unsold.

However – as our guest Shubhi reminds us – when we talk about textile industry waste we can’t just talk about textiles. The entire industry produces a lot more than just fabric in excess. From underwires to buttons to rivets to zippers … fashion uses materials like polymers, metal, rubber, adhesives, and of course - textiles.

Basically, we are NOT talking about waste holistically.

And when we are thinking about solutions, yet again – the approach thus far has predominantly been reactionary instead of preventative.

As Shubhi shares, in order to get the best output (meaning that at the end of life, there is the best potential for it to be recycled well or to go back to the earth through composting) … you have to think about systems change. Because if not, the recycling process at the end of a garment’s life just gets more and more complicated and less and less productive.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “Industries are producing textiles, and yes, the rejents, the off-cuts, and all those things. They, put together, make industrial textile waste. But, the moment you move into a post consumer textile waste section — post consumer textile waste section is comprised of zippers, buttons, labels, your underwires of bra, and everything that you’ve sandwiched together to make that fabric or a garment behave in a certain manner. It’s a marriage and an amalgamation of any material and every material from polymer industry to textile industry to metal to rubber to adhesives to everything.” -Shubhi (21:11)
• “But once you trap anything in resin, it’s not good to take care of its own self. Natural materials are capable of taking care of their own selves. But once you trap them into a manmade material or any poly resin or any synthetic matter, for that matter — maybe you’re able to justify, which often is the case, that you’re using less virgin material of that particular polymer, but you’re trapping that particular agricultural waste in a position where it can’t take care of itself and it’s actually becoming another piece of plastic.” -Shubhi (38:26)

• Material Library Of India’s Website >

• Follow Material Library of India on Instagram >

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In episode 277, Kestrel welcomes Jesus Herrera — a model, clothing designer, vintage curator, and poet — to the show. Also known by their moniker Donatella because of their Instagram handle @donatellaversanchez, Jesus is the cofounder of the vintage jesus online store and Les Jesus fashion brand.

“I’ve also brought space to my partnerships. I’ve also brought an understanding that I should not interfere and I should not demand from a culture that has existed for hundreds and sometimes thousands of years in one specific way, just because I have a purpose or just because I have a need or just because I have a goal in mind. My purpose, my need and my goal are my own. But my purpose and my need and my goal should not interfere with somebody else’s happiness, with their way of life, with how they think that the best quality of life is lived or led.” -Jesus

Have you ever noticed the way that certain garments are valued more than others? Or the way that some craftsmanship styles are aligned with couture or exceptional quality, and others are not held to that same regard?

This week’s guest reminds us of some of these ways that specific garments are valued differently than others, and how so often these perceptions are based largely around who wears those garments.

For example, how does the fashion industry value a piece of clothing, if it’s worn by the ladies who lunch? What about if it’s worn by an Indigenous person?

One theme that recurs throughout our conversation is finding ways to resist this dichotomy between who is valued and who is not.

As this week’s guest notes –
“Not only one set of people who have a certain set of resources matter more than another set of people in the world. This is how we should be looking at community and politics and life.”

We also explore the expectations that come with capitalism, and how surrendering to those can hinder the development of meaningful partnerships and relationships.

For this week’s guest, there are so many limits around partnership, and those limits should be respected.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “But when I came to have better resources, I realized that that was not the case — that new things were not made of quality, that new things were not made of wonderful materials, that new things were not warm or didn’t keep you always cozy. So, I think that’s why I gravitated more toward that idea of sustainability — of using vintage things, of making things in really good quality fabrics, because that’s just the experience I grew up with, out of necessity.” -Jesus (9:40)
• “The hardest person to be is the person that you say you are.” -a quote from Teri Agins that Jesus mentions
• The End Of Fashion by Teri Agins, book that Jesus mentions
  https://www.harpercollins.com/products/the-end-of-fashion-teri-agins?variant=32207809347618
• “We all live with contradictions — I live with a ton of contradictions and I’m not hiding them, which is something that I’m really proud of.” -Jesus (20:11)
• “This whole thing about never wanting to be wrong is the problem.” -Jesus (33:28)
• "Real partnership and good partnership is not someone coming in somewhere and saying, ‘I’m gonna do you a favor’. I don’t come into any of my relationships thinking I’m going to do the other person a favor. I come into every relationship thinking — I’m gonna learn something. I come excited and I come ready to be impressed and mesmerized, because most of the times when I’ve come into anything with that mindset and with that open heart, I have been mesmerized, I have been impressed, I have learned something, I’ve been humbled by the experience — that’s how I come into every experience, and that’s partnership to me.” -Jesus (35:02)
• “I’ve also brought space to my partnerships. I’ve also brought an understanding that I should not interfere and I should not demand from a culture that has existed for hundreds and sometimes thousands of years in one specific way, just because I have a purpose or just because I have a need or just because I have a goal in mind.” -Jesus (37:47)
• “Meet the Designer Duo Marrying Traditional Mexican Craft With Forward-Thinking Fashion” in Vogue, article Kestrel mentions
• “From Indigenous Textiles to Gender Fluidity, Fashion Designer Jesus Herrera Wants Marginalized People to Be Seen & Respected” in Mexico In My Pocket, article Kestrel mentions
• The Vintage Jesus on Etsy >
• Les Jesus Website >
• Follow Les Jesus on Instagram >
• Follow The Vintage Jesus on Instagram >
• Follow Jesus on Instagram >

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In episode 276, Kestrel welcomes Dr. Dion Terrelonge, a chartered psychologist, to the show. A researcher and stylist, Dion’s work explores the connection between clothes and human expression.

“We live so much of our lives in clothing and we experience the highest points and the lowest points of our lives often in clothing. So, I really do think the stories and the relationships are there, but what has happened, I believe, is with fast fashion and online shopping, is because there is so much clothing being pumped out, this endless conveyor belt of clothes, that we don’t really have as much time to build relationships with our clothing.” -Dion

When you think about shopping, what feelings come up for you?

One emotion that tends to surface for a lot of us is HAPPINESS. We have come to a place where we often align the act of shopping with a state of happiness.

I mean, I can definitely understand the alignment between shopping and emotions. As Dion reminds us, there have been a lot of narratives that have reinforced this – statements like retail therapy or thinking of shopping as a fun form of entertainment.

I can point to many instances in my past where buying something was absolutely connected to wanting to make myself feel better, to wanting to find joy through the act of buying something.

But this alignment so many of us have – that shopping = happiness – is problematic in so many ways and in the end, isn’t accurate.

Dion, a chartered psychologist, sheds light on the arc of happiness or self determination theory. She reminds us that while some of the elements that intersect with shopping may bring us happiness, the act of buying stuff isn’t it.

Maybe the time you spend with friends while shopping makes you happy. Maybe putting on a garment that was handed over to you from your mom makes you happy. Maybe owning and embracing your personal style makes you happy. But buying another item isn’t it.

Throughout our conversation, Dion also helps contextualize a lot about our shopping behaviors, especially when it comes to the speed of today’s buying culture, so we can find ways to become more consciously engaged in our own lives.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “Tackling fast fashion must be our next global battle” in Big Issue; article Dion was featured in
• “This is what actually happens to your brain when you shop online” in Stylist; article Dion was featured in
• Thinking Fast & Slow by Daniel Kahneman, book that Dion mentions
• Dion’s reel about the Peak-End Rule
• “We’re just really living in an era of living beyond our means.” (45:25)
• Additional pieces Dion has contributed to:

‘We live our lives in clothes’ | The British Psychological Society

Red Or White? How My Wedding Dress Choice Is Affecting My Thoughts On Identity | British Vogue

How fashion’s erratic sizing is fuelling a clothing waste crisis | Dazed

What happens to our brains when we shop online? | stylist.co.uk

What Does Your Jewelry Say About You? | PORTER

How to talk to your friends about sustainable fashion | HURR * Dion’s Website > * Follow Dion on Instagram >

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In episode 275, Kestrel welcomes Liz Ricketts (the cofounder and Director of The Or Foundation), alongside Sammy Oteng (a fashion designer, researcher, and the Community Design Lab Manager at The Or Foundation), to the show. A nonprofit based in the USA and Ghana, The Or Foundation’s primary goal is to catalyze what they call a justice-led circular economy.

“What’s so unfair about what fast fashion has done is that it’s created a situation where every single garment that’s created, whether it was from me or from Sammy or if it’s upcycled or recycled — it’s still waste until proven otherwise, because we just have so much excess in circulation right now, and it’s just very unfair to anyone who’s trying to do the right thing.” -Liz

Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR)

Before we get into it, there’s one thing I want to contextualize. And it’s probably something you’ve heard about - maybe something you’ve even heard a lot about recently. That thing is – Extended Producer Responsibility or EPR.

EPR policy would ideally ensure that producers are required to assume the costs of collection, treating, and recycling of their end-of-life products. Basically, it puts the financial burden of the waste management on the actual brands to deal with their products after citizens are done with them.

In 2007, France was the first country to declare a legal framework for managing textile waste through EPR policy with the goal of holding textile producers responsible for the collection and recycling of end-of-use clothing, linen, and shoes. The EU also recently announced EPR schemes to help address textile waste from fast fashion.

However – France and the EU’s policies fail to compensate the communities where the majority of that waste ends up. So, the tax is supposed to go to waste management, but when a great deal of that textile waste ends up being exported to countries in Africa as a part of that so-called “waste management”, AND those tax funds stay within France or Europe, these policies are only continuing to perpetuate a long history of waste colonialism.

This is only a very brief overview – but it gives you a little context on EPR before we get deeper into it.

The Or Foundation x Shein Agreement To Create EPR Fund

There were shockwaves sent across the fashion industry, after an announcement at the Global Fashion Summit this year (2022). The Or Foundation unveiled their agreement with SHEIN to receive $15 million over three years, as the first grant recipient of SHEIN’s new Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) Fund to help manage textile waste.

The commentary and discussions across social media and the web have been intense, with a lot of very emotionally-charged reactions from varying vantage points. Here’s just a glimpse of some of the feedback that has been shared –

• Concerns about the way this is blatant greenwashing by SHEIN, considering that their ultra fast fashion business model is largely to blame for the waste being dumped in Ghana and other areas of the Global South
• Concerns about how SHEIN will be able to use this partnership as a way to look good while continuing to perpetuate a savorist mindset
• Concerns over the criticism of this partnership being directed at The Or Foundation instead of at SHEIN
• Concerns about what this showcases with regard to the nonprofit industrial complex
• Concerns about the apparent need for wealth redistribution, but the question of when and why the origin of those funds should matter
• Concerns over when and how SHEIN will address the root causes of its impact, instead of simply throwing cash at the problem, which some have identified as only offering a bandaid solution

And so many more. In this week’s conversation, I had the privilege to speak with the folks at The Or Foundation to get their take on it all. And more importantly, to hear some of the responses of the community in Kantamanto, and how this money will be and already is being used.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Watch video celebrating Kantamanto's contribution to the "circular economy"
• “The fashion industry is not only linear in terms of material flow, it’s also linear in terms of power dynamics and wealth — where you have countries in the Global North using the Global South as a waste management system, and folks in the Global South and people that we work with in Kantamanto doing the actual work of circularity in terms of reuse and repair and upcycling, but not having any of the language that is sanctioned in the Global North to describe what they do. And so, there’s this big disconnect between rhetoric and impact.” -Liz (18:18)
• “Kantamanto has two truths — Kantamanto makes visible fashion’s waste crisis but it’s not the cause of the waste crisis, and Kantamanto itself is the largest reuse and upcycling economy in the world.” -Liz (20:00)
• “If you think about the work that is being done here and the discussions that are going on around these topics within the fashion space in the Global North, there is such a huge disconnect — it almost seems like there is more interest in talking about all of these topics than actually doing the work.” -Sammy (22:40)
• “The work that we are doing here is not about the Global North. We are not doing all this work in our community to give back to the Global North.” -Sammy (28:55)
• “I don’t want to dismiss the complexity and some of the reactions that I think are very important; I think it’s provoked some productive dialogue in the Global North. But for us, it’s very simple — it’s not about me, it’s not about our organization. It’s about the community that we are accountable to which is Kantamanto, and they have been trusting us since 2016 to deliver tangible change and frankly, we’ve failed them for a long time. It’s been really hard to find money to do the things that need to be done, and every single week — retailers, tailors, girls working as kayayai have asked us if anyone has acknoeweldged them and if any of the brands has stepped up to take responsibility, or if anyone from the Global North has stepped up to take responsibility. I have to be very honest that for me, it’s a big relief to finally be able to say “yes, someone has.” We’ve been calling on this — a lot of people in our community, folks in the Global North have joined us in calling for brands to pay for the waste that ends up here, for the waste that we are processing ourselves. And I understand that maybe this is not how people imagined that looking, but for us again, it’s very simple — it’s not about Shein, it’s not about us, it’s about the fact that finally we can have the resources that the community has been calling for.” -Liz (40:38)
• “The conversation here is very different when you talk to the retailers — they are not concerned about what brand is bringing the money or who is the CEO, they don’t care about that. They just believe that white people or people from the Global North should take some responsibility for the problem that has been caused here. And for them, that is the one thing they appreciated — knowing that after all this long while of waiting … people in the Global North have actually taken responsibility that their stuff has may be ending up here and causing problems.” -Sammy (42:22)
• “For me, that should have been the focus of all of these shock and waves or whatever going around the fashion space. I think that should have been the real question, the real interest — finding out what it meant to the community.” -Sammy (45:37)
• “I don’t think that our community, the sustainability community, really talks about the lack of resources, but it’s very real. For instance, I’ve gone to brands that are considered very “sustainable”, asking them to support our kayayei programs — which it only takes a $1,000 dollars per girl to transition them out of this job that literally is killing them into a dignified career. And people have responded by saying “oh that’s very sad, but we would like to fund a documentary” because people want to have things that they can put their logo on or that they can sponsor.” -Liz (47:01)
• Article on The Or Foundation’s work with kayayei (written by Liz)
• Watch video on The Or Foundation’s Chiropractic Research and Treatment Program
• Recent IG Live where Sammy and Chloe talk about how challenging it is for Ghanaian citizens to travel outside of Ghana while millions of garments flood into Accra from outside every week
• Watch video tour of the No More Fast Fashion Lab
• Waste Landscape Report by The Or Foundation
• The Or Foundation’s 2021 Annual Report
• Follow The Or Foundation on Instagram >
• TAKEAWAY: look into the EPR policies in your local area, and figure out if the policies that are being considered are globally accountable — if waste is going to be exported as part of that policy, is money going to be able to flow with it? If not, fight for this.

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In episode 274, Kestrel welcomes Michelle Zhu, the CEO & cofounder of Huue, to the show. In an effort to replace toxic chemical dyes in apparel, Huue are developing biosynthetic dyes — their initial focus is to provide an alternative to synthetic indigo.

“We are creating a biosynthetic solution that is a one-to-one drop-in replacement into the textile supply chain. We’re creating these bio-identicals that can minimize the footprint of production of these dyes and pigments, but without disrupting the supply chain process that is required to make the authentic look and feel of denim that everybody knows and loves.”
-Michelle Zhu

Are you familiar with biosynthetics? If so, do you understand what they are or how they operate? So often terms like this get thrown around in the sustainability space, without a lot of context or definitions. They are assumed to fall into the good box or the bad box, when yet again – there is a lot more information needed to understand the bigger picture.

So, here’s the super basics – biosynthetics are made of renewable materials, instead of being petroleum based. We often hear about them from a fiber stance, so fabrics made up of biopolymers from corn or sugar or other ingredients. But on this week’s show, we’re diving into more on how biosynthetics are being used for textile dyeing.

Today, the majority of our clothes are colored with synthetic dyes. If we look back, the first synthetic dye was accidentally discovered in the 1850s when an 18-year old chemist was searching for a treatment for malaria. And since then, they’ve gradually taken over due to their speed and efficacy.

But take indigo – the color that we align with denim. Today, every kilogram of synthetic indigo produced uses 75x the amount of petroleum. And it involves the use of dangerous chemicals like benzene, formaldehyde, and sodamide.

This week’s guest cofounded a company that’s leveraging biosynthetics to address the extreme toxicity across the textile dye industry. They’ve started with indigo blue, and are building one-to-one solutions that can be inserted directly into the current manufacturing infrastructure.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “This Melinda Gates-backed biotech startup is growing bacteria that make sustainable dye for denim”, article in Fast Company
• "How These Founders Are Detoxifying the Denim Industry--and Saving the Planet", article in Inc.
• "Using synthetic biology platforms to clean up indigo dye-making", article in Axios
• "Best Inventions of 2021 - Huue: Blue Jeans Go Green", article in TIME
• Huue’s Website >
• Follow Huue on Instagram >

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In episode 273, Kestrel welcomes Kesiena Onosigho, a textile and mixed-media artist, to the show. Through the study of materials and patterns, Kesiena intuitively explores textiles and a range of media to create atmospheric abstractions focused on intersectionality, as coined by Kimberle Crenshaw, engaging in themes of social & environmental justice. “My work really is about reclaiming and retelling these narratives around Black cultural contributions to textiles and crafts and sustainability. And really dedicating my work to uplifting and centering Black women in particular, but Black people in general, their work and their history across the African diaspora.” -Kesiena

This week’s guest is a natural dyer, a knitter, a botanical ink-maker and beyond. An exceptional textile and mixed media artist, Kesiena’s work is grounded in historical context and lived experiences, and focused on themes around social and environmental justice.

Growing up within a very matriarchal family, surrounded by a community of Black women, she has collected experiences and knowledge, and navigated her way to discovering that art is a tool for liberation – in particular slow art.

As she says, “for Black people today, finding that space is an act of rebellion.”

Through her work, she creates what she calls “atmospheric abstractions” – I love this so much. And it’s beyond accurate because so often with art, we end up being able to feel it before we actually understand it. And when it comes to her process, sustainability is woven into each step along the way – as she says: sustainability isn’t passive, it’s something you live, and something you are.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Gist Yarn's upcoming textile residency (starting in July) that Kesiena was selected to be a part of this year
• Garbage Goddess — a great resource for natural dyers that Kesiena recommended, after the recording. They sometimes offer free flowers for natural dyers in NYC, and Kesiena sometimes freelances with them.
• Teju Adisa-Farrar’s Black Material Geographies Podcast (Kesiena mentions)
• Sustainable Brooklyn (organization to support that Kesiena mentions)
• The Root Series with Dominique Drakeford
• Kesiena encourages folks to check out and support the work of Lisa Betty (who was featured on episode 1 of The Root series)
• Conscious Chatter episode 228 with Catherine McKinley >
• Kesiena’s website >
• Follow Kesiena on Instagram >

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In episode 272, Kestrel welcomes Angela Weinberg, the cofounder of Kolorete, to the show. A luxury color cosmetics brand, KOLORETE is focused on creating hydrating lipsticks made with organic ingredients.

“Lip balms and lip products are traditionally very underregulated. So, when we think of this organic, consumerism ecosystem and conversation, what do we usually think about? I think we usually think about food … it’s less common, less mainstream to think about how the lipstick that we apply to our lips or even the makeup we apply to our face — you know, our skin is an organ, and especially with lipstick, it’s connected to our mouth so we can really consume lipstick the same way we would consume our food.”

This week, we’re talking lipstick … that oh-so-fun tint so many of us don our lips with.

Taking a step back — you could say lipstick is popular. According to Allied Market Research, the lipstick market size was valued at $8.2 billion in 2018, and is expected to reach $12.5 billion by 2026.

But just like fashion – the beauty industry is largely unregulated, making it another prime space notorious for greenwashing its way into the “sustainability scene”.

This week’s guest is working to build a more thoughtful lipstick brand – it’s made of 98% organic ingredients, and she actually dreamed up the recipe in her own kitchen. But most lipsticks today aren’t that clean.

In a 2013 study done at UC Berkeley, 32 different lipsticks and lip glosses commonly found in drugstores and department stores were tested. Through this research, they detected lead, cadmium, chromium, aluminum and five other metals, some of them being at levels that could raise potential health concerns.

Alarming? For sure. As this week’s guest points out, synthetic ingredients dominate conventional beauty product recipes. Can you guess one of the recurring synthetic ingredients in lip colors? Yup, it’s petroleum, AKA oil, again — petroleum fashion and petroleum beauty.

What can we watch for when we seek out beauty products? What can we do to advocate better options in the marketplace? What regulation is missing from the equation in the U.S. today? These are just a few of the questions we explore with Angela.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• "One of the things I wanted to bring to KOLORETE is that idea that quality matters — the quality of the ingredients, the quality of the manufacturing, the materials, the people, the messaging — and quality should be available at any price point and it should be very accessible.” -Angela
• *Kestrel misspoke on the documentary she recently started watching — it was actually called Toxic Beauty
• Kolorete’s Website >
• Follow Kolorete on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by Organic Basics is a carbon-neutral, Copenhagen-based brand creating underwear, activewear and everyday essentials. If you’re interested in checking them out, you can use code CONSCIOUS10 to get 10% off. FYI – I don't receive any commissions.

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In episode 271, Kestrel welcomes Anuj Sharma, an innovative designer, to the show. Anuj developed a unique method to make clothing called Button Masala, which does not require any cutting or sewing to construct a garment. “So, how come such a beautiful material like fabric has only one joining system? I realized that it’s so visual-based. So, I decided to teach — largely because I thought it was important to have everybody knowing the idea of what is design and what it can do to you and what you should be asking for and why you should be asking for it.”
-Anuj

When we talk about shaking up fashion or reimagining new systems, why don’t we ever question cutting and sewing? Aren’t there other ways to bind fabric together?

The short answer is – yes.

Historically, many garments were draped, especially in warmer climates, to ensure air flow. As this week’s guest points out — in India, where he is from, fashion designers didn’t even exist until the 1980s. Before then, there was only a need for textile designers, because stitching was never needed.

But with the globalization of quote unquote fashion, cut and sew has become king.

If fashion wants to claim to be an innovative industry, shouldn’t we also welcome alternative ways of connecting fabric – beyond the cutting and sewing system?

This week’s guest, Anuj, thinks so. He has created one alternative way to bind fabric together, called Button Masala, and for him, it’s all about sharing this technique with anyone and everyone so they can utilize it for themselves.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “I said, oh it looks like a mistake if you do that. But what if there are many buttons and many button holes. If there’s one man making noises and shouting in a building, then it’s his fault and you can take him to jail. But if the whole building is shouting, then it’s not a problem — it becomes a festival. If one button is wrong, it’s a mistake, but if many buttons are wrong, then it’s alright — it’ll become a pattern. So that’s how I decided to put many buttons on a fabric in a day.” (11:55) -Anuj
• “In a way, I created LEGO of garment making.” (12:57) -Anuj
• “The whole idea of consumerism is so beautifully brought into peoples’ life, that people feel unfulfilled if they don’t buy something for a few days. This whole idea of beauty — that every time you wear a new garment, it makes you look better. And I keep constantly telling my students and I keep trying to break the myth of what is beauty. Because it’s all connected to the myth of beauty. Because what we need, we already have.” (19:25) -Anuj
• Follow Button Masala on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by Organic Basics is a carbon-neutral, Copenhagen-based brand creating underwear, activewear and everyday essentials. If you’re interested in checking them out, you can use code CONSCIOUS10 to get 10% off. FYI – I don't receive any commissions.

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In episode 270, Kestrel welcomes Timnit Kefela, a doctoral candidate in environmental science and management at the University of California, Santa Barbara, to the show. Timnit’s research is focused on the sources, pathways and fates of microplastics in urban environments. “Much of the solutions that are being brought out are very consumer-forward, which I think is unfair, because a lot of them are not accessible. So you end up putting the brunt of environmental destruction on the people who have the least access to the solutions. So I think it’s incredibly important to pay attention to how we can have things change from an infrastructural level to be able to tackle this problem, and not necessarily just blame it on people who cannot afford leading, you know, zero-waste or low-waste lifestyles.” -Timnit

We’re talking about plastic. Yup, plastic. I know, it’s everywhere. Literally everywhere. It feels like we can’t escape it these days. And as you probably know, our clothing is no different. Plastic is a primary fiber for today’s fashion.

In Changing Markets’ Fossil Fashion report, they state that: “It is now estimated that synthetic fibers will grow from 69% to 73% of total fiber production globally by 2030, with polyester accounting for 85% of this.”

That’s a lot of clothes dripping in … oil? Cringe.

Where did it all start? How did plastic become the fabric of our lives?

From what I could discover, it sounds like the first fully synthetic plastic was created in the early 1900s – what we would call Bakelite. From there, a lot has transformed with plastics and our incessant use of it, especially since the 1950s – the dawn of synthetic fiber mass production.

I don’t know about you, but with all this plastic fashion, all I can think about is the excessive microfiber emissions that come with it. We hear about microplastics all the time nowadays – but do we really understand how they function? Where do they start, how do they travel, and how are they truly impacting communities?

Timnit, this week’s guest, is a doctoral candidate who has done extensive research examining the impact of apparel and other sources, on global microplastics pollution. Timnit shares insights from her research, and ways she believes we can be working to mitigate microplastics emissions.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “Synthetic microfiber emissions to land rival those to waterbodies and are growing”, paper co-authored by Timnit
• “Microplastics are in our bodies.” article in National Geographic that discusses the recent research about how microplastics have been found in human blood and lungs
• “Fossil Fashion”, report by Changing Market that Kestrel mentions
• “California Adopts Nation’s First Microplastics Strategy to Reduce Microplastic Pollution”, article about CA microplastic reduction strategy that Timnit mentions
• Timnit’s website >

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In episode 269, Kestrel welcomes Ngozi Okaro, the founder and executive director of Custom Collaborative, to the show. Custom Collaborative trains, mentors, and advocates for and with no/low-income and immigrant women to build the skills necessary to achieve economic success in the sustainable fashion industry and broader society.

“I think that if workers owned the business, if the people who are actually putting in the labor are also owners, then they’re less inclined to overproduce, because it’s just their time and their resources that they’re wasting. So, I think that cooperative is important for both local economies, I think also for the environment and also for human rights.” -Ngozi

This week, we are talking about cooperatives, and the ways that worker-led fashion production can truly shake up the industry.

Power dynamics are a topic that comes up a lot on the show – and something that was discussed in depth throughout The Root, the 6-part series co-produced and hosted by Dominique Drakeford. Conversations around the distribution of power within the fashion space are imperative, but in the mainstream space, they often lead back to this assumption that well, we exist within a capitalistic system, and this is how the fashion system works, so we have to work within it.

Ok – yes, agreed that we must work within it to transform the way that big business is operating – through advocating for transformation and through regulation. But also – I’m super interested in the ways in which alternative business models can literally showcase in practice the ways in which other frameworks work.

This week’s guest is the founder and executive director of an organization that is building alternative models – in her case, through a New York-based worker-led cooperative.

As she reminds us, cooperative ownership can actually counter overproduction – so it’s not simply a model that is important for human rights, it’s also a framework that can address the industry’s waste issues and support local economies.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Dennis Derryck, Professor at The New School, who has become a mentor to Ngozi
• “So, for us, cooperative is good because workers are owners — they can make the desicisions and share equity. And secondarily, it’s helpful because if there are people who don’t have work authorization, cooperative owners are legally able to work in the U.S.” -Ngozi (18:04)
• “How Employee-Owned Fashion Co-Ops Are Challenging Sweatshop Production”, article in The Good Trade Kestrel mentions
• “People who work in worker cooperatives generally have greater satisfaction, the businesses have more insights because people who are actually doing the work feel like they can bring to light ideas, they can make suggestions for making the business better.” -Ngozi (20:52)
• Opportunity Threads, a worker cooperative in North Carolina that Ngozi spoke to early in Custom Collaborative’s development

• “I think that if workers owned the business, if the people who are actually putting in the labor are also owners, then they’re less inclined to overproduce, because it’s just their time and their resources that they’re wasting. So, I think that cooperative is important for both local economies, I think also for the environment and also for human rights.” -Ngozi (25:24)

• “Where fashion is failing women, and where it’s showing up”, article in Vogue Business which features quotes from Ngozi

• “It’s great to acknowledge women and to celebrate them, but I do think it’s a year round thing — it’s not just March 8th or the month of March. It’s really about including women in decision making and centering women when we’re thinking about what to do next with a company.” (29:29)
• “When Custom Collaborative started in 2016, and even when I was planning in 2014 and ‘15, I didn’t hear anybody talking about human rights and fair wages being part of sustainability. And I remember when I used to talk about it on panels and in interviews and just with people in general, a lot of times people would look at my oddly like I didn’t know what I was talking about. But I feel like now in 2022, it’s more a part of the conversation.” -Ngozi (33:21)
• An interview with Ngozi for the CFDA
• An interview with Ngozi for Musings Magazine
• Custom Collaborative
• Donate To Custom Collaborative >
• Follow Custom Collaborative on Instagram >

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In episode 268, Kestrel welcomes Venetia La Manna, to the show. The host of All The Small Things podcast and the co-founder of Remember Who Made Them, Venetia uses her platforms to challenge fashion brands who are costing the earth and calls out retailers on their unethical practices in the fashion supply chain.

“Fashion brands are so willing to talk about organic cotton and to talk about their latest recycled range. There are two things that fashion brands refuse to commit to — the first is paying their garment makers a fair living wage, and the second is a drastic reduction in overall output. But these are the two things that would actually, truly change the industry.” -Venetia

Here’s a question I’ve posed on Instagram:

Is it OK to buy fast fashion secondhand?

I was watching Venetia’s YouTube channel recently, and in one video, she talks about this question. She says: “I think it’s worth us interrogating – but I’m not sure it’s worth us giving ourselves a hard time about.”

So, back to that question – is it OK to buy secondhand fast fashion?

Out of curiosity, I did a poll on Instagram the other day, and 96% of the respondents said Yes, it’s ok to buy it, with only 4% saying No it’s not OK.

On the show, Venetia and I do interrogate it a bit, along with other questions like – why aren’t garment makers centered in the ways we talk about and act on changing fashion? And how can we creatively share intense information about the unfair fashion industry to welcome more people into the conversation?

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• All The Small Things, Venetia’s podcast
• “I think the thing that has driven that is that focusing more on the environmental impact of fashion lets the majority of brands off the hook and allows them to continue to produce at a rate that our planet can’t sustain, let alone, the people creating our clothes and the people carrying our clothes at the end of the supply chain.” (22:48)
• “Fashion brands are willing to talk about sustainability and the environment if it means more money for them.” (24:55)
• “Fast fashion brands have literally hijacked the language of the slow fashion movement and incorporated it in their marketing campaigns.” (29:54)
• Munya Chawawa, content creator Venetia admires
• CC with Timo Rissanen (ep 47) about how creativity thrives with constraints
• The Or Foundation
• Follow Venetia on Instagram >
• Follow Remember Who Made Them on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by Tradlands, a small business focused on timeless style, slow fashion principles, and small-batch production. If you’re interested in checking them out, you can use code CONSCIOUSCHATTER20 for 20% off. FYI — I don’t receive commissions from this partnership.

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In episode 267, Kestrel welcomes farmer and scientist, Sally Fox, to the show. Known for her work in developing strong genetics in organic, naturally-colored cotton, Sally also has experience in raising heritage Merino sheep and a variety of crops, including Sonora wheat.

“I viewed the misuse of ag chemicals and the overuse of dyes — I see them as the same thing. I don’t see why we’re using dyes on products, on the colors we can grow ourselves. I want to see materials that are expensive and precious and costly in terms of energy and water use, to be used where you have to use them — not just on a whim.” -Sally

One of the most environmentally and socially detrimental stages in the textile supply chain is the DYEING PROCESS – where we add colors to our textiles. As highlighted in Rita Kant’s article Textile dyeing industry an environmental hazard, “The World Bank estimates that 17 to 20 percent of industrial water pollution comes from textile dyeing and finishing treatment given to fabric. Some 72 toxic chemicals have been identified in water solely from textile dyeing, 30 of which cannot be removed.”

Yes, there are natural dyes which can be an amazing option. And yes, there are lower-impact dyes, which can often be a so-called better option.

But what if we could grow fibers that were bred for many distinct attributes, including COLOR?

Well, we can. It’s something that Sally Fox has been working on for the last 40 years – from breeding to growing to harvesting to spinning to yarn design, to many other layers in between, she’s a legend in the cotton industry.

Her work planted a lot of the seeds that have grown into today’s organic industry in the U.S.

And through her closeness to so many pieces of the cotton supply chain, she has incredible insight on many of the complexities of growing organic that are often overlooked.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “The USDA had been giving them to to all the breeders because they were sources of innate insect and pest and disease resistance. They were very very vigorous, but they had this fiber that wasn’t usable. So, I asked him ‘why don’t we just improve the fiber and make it usable?’ And he said ‘there’s no market for naturally colored cottons’. And I said, ‘well why don’t we make a market?’ And this guy was in his 70s and I was in my 20s and he started laughing and he said, ‘here you can have the seeds and you can even have part of the greenhouse so start it up.’ -Sally (11:11)
• “Breeding is about focusing on where you want to go and then growing as many plants as you can afford that allow for the plants to express themself with the greatest diversities, so you can pick the ones that are going the direction that you want.” -Sally (28:03)
• Dr. Jane Dever, cotton breeder
• “No that many people who breed cotton have a deep understanding of the use of the fiber. Most breeders are breeding for yield because farmers buy seeds by how much the yield is. They need to make enough money to stay in business and yield is the thing they look for.” -Sally (49:35)
• “If there’s ever been a product that entered the world because of the support of people who were devoted to their craft, it is this.” (51:19)
• Vreseis, Sally’s Website
• Follow FoxFibre® on Facebook >
• Follow Sally on Instagram >

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In episode 266, Kestrel welcomes Leah D’Ambrosio, the founder of Wol Hide, to the show. Focused on easy wear for living in, Wol Hide’s styles are made from natural fibers and organic textures. “I like to look at sort of the bigger picture of what I’m creating. So, I think a lot about the supply chain and the people that I work with, and where our materials come from — who’s making them, who’s knitting them, and all the pieces along the way. But then, also, in terms of design and making products, I try to think a lot about things that people are gonna want to wear for a long time, things that are gonna feel good to put on, things that you’re gonna want to reach for again and again in your closet.” -Leah

Have you ever heard the minimums conundrum from smaller brands, or even mid-sized brands, working in the sustainability space? It’s a conversation that comes up on repeat in my circles – I hear about the challenges with minimums for mills, for fabric sourcing, for cut and sew production, for accessing new materials, and the list goes on.

These co-called minimums are a direct reflection of the way in which the fashion system has been built on VOLUME, and SCALE and an obsession with growth on all accounts.

This leads me to the idea of sharing ownership – I feel like regularly people are saying: I wish someone would coordinate a way for smaller brands to bond together to meet these minimums, to help each other be able to access what they’re looking for, through a collective approach.

But it’s challenging because fashion is notorious for being SECRETIVE, and brands and designers are notorious for not wanting to share their resources, their suppliers, pieces of their supply chain, etc, etc. When it comes to pushing the needle in the sustainability space, why not share?

Leah has a smaller label (Wol Hide), and is working diligently to build thoughtful supply chains. She shares some of her insights when it comes to navigating these minimum challenges, and ways she thinks we need to continue to come together to work more cooperatively across the industry.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Sally Fox (who Wol Hide works with for their Colorgrown cotton)
• NY Textile Lab (this is who Won Hide works with for the regional Climate Beneficial yarn)
• Fibershed on Climate Beneficial Agriculture >
• Follow Wol Hide on Instagram >

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In episode 265, Kestrel welcomes Summer Dean (AKA @ClimateDiva), a writer, content creator and model, to the show. Both a fashion lover and climate justice advocate, Summer has a distinct way of making these conversations educational, intersectional and fun. “My goal this whole time has been to communicate to people who aren’t already in these spaces, and I think it’s really important to make the climate and sustainable fashion movement as big as possible. So, for me, that means making my content funny and nuanced and stylish and accessible. But you know, I really think my personality does shine through in a lot of these videos, and it’s really just about bringing as many people as possible along for the ride.” -Summer

This week, we’re reminded of some of the ways that the systems intend to control our unique paths.

For example – capitalism makes us feel that we must hone in on one specific aspect of our personality or our interests – so we can more easily monetize that particular skill.

The patriarchy tells us that as women, we should dim ourselves down and blend in – in other words, we shouldn’t be showy in the way we dress, in order to be quote unquote taken seriously in our professions.

This week’s guest has resisted both in the way she’s crafted her distinct career path.

By welcoming her whole self into her work, she’s found a niche at the intersections of fashion and climate justice. From educating us about science and big data to curating sustainable fits, she’s literally showing us how it’s possible to build protest through self expression.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Interview with Summer On Atmos (by Yessenia Funes)
• “My goal is to just really bring a sense of light heartedness into this. I think that when we feel a little lighter and a little more joyful in these movements, I think it just really brings a sense of longevity, and I think that is what is going to make these movement last and ultimately win and build a better world.” (19:43) -Summer
• “My biggest rule for brands that I work with is — are they ok with talking about degrowth and reducing consumption, because if they’re not, then I don’t really feel comfortable working with them … I have to see that they stand for the same things I stand for, which is reducing overconsumption and overproduction, ending exploitation of people and the planet, and rebuilding our relationship with the earth.” (23:58, 24:26) -Summer
• Conscious Chatter episode 238 with Jazmine Rogers and Gabby Sage (Kestrel mentions)
• Slow Fashion Means Slowing Down Media — post Kestrel did on IG in the past
• “I also do think that clothing and style and self expression has a huge role to play in the climate movement and building a better world.” (34:42) -Summer
• “We shouldn’t have to even have sustainability influencers — this whole career that I have in and of itself — the fact that I am even a sustainability influencer shows that there is something inherently wrong with our system. We shouldn’t have to decide between buying something that is causing people to essentially be enslaved or buying something that is a little bit more expensive that isn’t.” (42:17) -Summer
• Reel Summer did about the lack of size accessibility in sustainable fashion
• “There is something fundamentally wrong with the inaccessibility in sustainability.” (44:17) -Summer
• “These algorithms really tend to promote environmental content that is very disheartening and leaves the viewer in a state of complete dread. I notice that the most viral videos about climate change are ones that really just don’t paint a picture of a better future or a hopeful future or a future that includes everyone at all … I think there does also need to be a conversation about how these algorithms are promoting content that leaves us feeling hopeless and leaves us feeling powerless.” (47:10) -Summer
• “The Solutions to the Climate Crisis Lie Within An Intersectional Approach” by Summer for Blueland
• YouTube video of “Intersectional & Inclusive Environmentalism Panel featuring Climate Diva & Climate Daisy”
• ACE Interview with Summer On Why Social Media Isn’t All Bad
• Follow Summer on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by Defunkify, a household cleaning products company that is on a mission to get toxic chemicals out of the products we wash our clothes with and clean our homes with. If you’re interested in checking them out, you can use code KESTREL25 for 25% off.

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In episode 264, Kestrel welcomes George Harding-Rolls (the Campaigns Advisor at Changing Markets Foundation) and Amy Nguyen (a strategist, researcher and writer focused on the nexus between sustainable business, fashion, innovation and technology) to the show. George and Amy are part of the team behind the recently launched website – Greenwash.com.

"We need to completely rethink about how we’re gonna shift this system — it’s gotta be about changing the rules of the game, like rip up the rules of the current way that we buy fashion and the current way that we produce fashion, and think about — what does this look like in a fashion system that works within planetary boundaries?” -George

I imagine you may have noticed it — but, fashion has a greenwashing problem.

This week’s guests, George and Amy, are behind a new platform called GREENWASH.com that is powered by Changing Markets Foundation. They are dedicated to exposing the greenwashers across fashion.

For a little context on how this new platform is framing the conversation – when you land on GREENWASH.com (or a virtual laundrette as they call it) – this is what you’ll read:

“59% of green claims are misleading or unsubstantiated. For some of the worst offenders, this is as much as 90%. Greenwashing is a smokescreen that makes people believe change is really happening … when it’s not. In reality, fashion’s toll on the planet is getting worse.”

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Greenwash.com Website >
• Changing Markets Synthetics Anonymous Report >
• UK Green Claims Code (utilized largely as framework for Greenwash.com brand analyzation)
• “We’re giving customers all of this information so that they can make that choice, but is customer choice really what this is all about? Is the solution to sustainable fashion about more sustainable choices or is it actually that this whole activity is the wrong tool, and that we should be looking instead to mandatory measures and regulation, which in the short answer is yes.” (25:25) -George
• CIRCULARITY WASHING — “We’ve seen such a big drive in circular fashion and most of the time, it is B.S. The limitations of take-back schemes, we see circular jeans that have actually got polyester thread and elastane, so it means that they can’t be repurposed.” (42:14) -Amy
• “I think we need to be a bit aggressive in our approach — we have to remember that we’re really limited in amount the time we have left. You know, we are hurdling through the climate decade, and I think sometimes it’s about not taking no for an answer, and just using your influence.” (51:56) -Amy
• Changing Markets Campaign Resources Page >
• Follow Changing Markets on Instagram >
• Sustainable & Social Website >
• Follow Sustainable and Social on Instagram >
• Amy’s Forbes Page >
• Find Amy on LinkedIn >
• Find George on LinkedIn >

This week's episode is brought to you by Defunkify, a household cleaning products company that is on a mission to get toxic chemicals out of the products we wash our clothes with and clean our homes with. If you’re interested in checking them out, you can use code KESTREL25 for 25% off.

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In episode 263, Kestrel welcomes Dr. Sandra Niessen, a cultural anthropologist, fashion scholar and activist, to the show. In 2020, Sandra published a notable article titled: “Fashion, its Sacrifice Zone and Sustainability”, which we explore on the show. She currently works closely with Fashion Act Now. “The loss of fashion or the degrowth in fashion — people think of that as a closing down of our fashion system or our clothing system. And I think of it as an incredible enrichment — the opportunity to throw open the windows and throw open the doors, and be creative in ways we’ve never thought of before and that are written out there in the world in Indigenous clothing systems and we’ve ignored all the time.”
-Sandra

I first discovered this week’s guest, through a YouTube interview she did with Extinction Rebellion. It was focused on “Fashion & Degrowth, and exploring the link between decolonization and sustainability in fashion”.

In it, our guest said – “Try to imagine colonialism without fashion”.

This really struck me – of course, we have deconstructed and broken down several layers of how fashion’s foundation is colonial, but this quote in particular really struck me, because I feel like the industry is rarely contextualized this way.

It’s rarely even contextualized from a historical lens as far as the systems of power that have led to the construction of the current fashion system. Like what we worked to unpack through The Root series with Dominique Drakeford.

But I guess what I’m getting at here is that suddenly, OTHERING was written across the sky in flashing lights for me.

Imagine the ways that dress or clothing or FASHION have been used as tools to OTHER people – to indicate who has power and who doesn’t have power. To show who is welcome and who is not. To perpetuate power dynamics.

As this week’s guest highlights, this idea of OTHERING is another way of saying ERASURE.

Erasure is what fashion was built on and what it continues to thrive off of – and according to this week’s guest, it could be the achilles heel of fashion if we truly want to change it.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Fashion Act Now, activist group Sandra works with
• “Fashion, its Sacrifice Zone, and Sustainability”, article by Sandra
• “We know that it’s the people — the people who live on the land, who are the maintainers of the land, they look after the land, they understand the land, they’re living in close association with it, sustainably with the land. And when we sacrifice those people along with the land, we’re losing that knowledge, that Indigenous wisdom that we could really benefit from in this world of crisis that we’re currently in where we’re trying so desperately to find sustainability and yet at the same time, we’re erasing the peoples that could help us learn about sustainability.” (21:34) -Sandra
• “Fashion is turning us (the consumer) into a sacrifice zone, it’s turning the cognitive aspects of other cultures into a sacrifice zone, so that we all become somehow entranced and begin to follow this strange mentality that’s associated with fashion. So, in that sense, fashion is producing sacrifice zones as well as being fundamentally based on sacrifice zones in its production systems.” (23:53) -Sandra
• Podcast with Trabian Shorters on “Asset Framing” that Kestrel mentions
• “Fashion teaches us to make ourselves hollow and to just be this superficial display. Whereas, the satisfaction comes from the inverse, and the inverse is what’s erased.” (37:20) -Sandra
• “The only way fashion can separate from growth is to stop being fashion.” (40:14) -Sandra
• Earth Logic (2019), book by Kate Fletcher and Mathilda Tham (free to download) — Sandra mentioned how it offers a paradigm in which the earth (carrying capacity) is central
• Less Is More (2020), book by Jason Hickel
• Two useful resources Sandra recommends, regarding alternative economic arrangements: The Wellbeing Economy Alliance & David Bollier’s website
• “Regenerative Fashion, there can be no other”, article by Sandra
• “RANGSA NI TONUN” - The Sacred Batak Weaving Tradition — film by Javanese artist MJA Nashir, that Sandra helped produce
• Sandra’s Blog >

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In episode 262, Kestrel welcomes Roland Geyer, Professor of Industrial Ecology at the University of California, Santa Barbara, to the show. Roland is also the author of a recently released book titled “The Business Of Less: The Role Of Companies and Households On A Planet In Peril”.

If you are familiar with corporate social responsibility, if you work in the field, or if you have an understanding of some of the general narratives within the space, this show may come as somewhat of a shock to you. Or maybe not – maybe you’re already asking some of these questions for yourself.

One thing is clear — we’re doing a lot of reimagining on this show.

As this week’s guest points out in his recent book – “The Business Of Less” — the sustainability narrative (and the corporate sustainability conversation in particular) has been dominated by two primary tenants.

1. The idea of the win/win paradigm – which is basically the idea that you can have your cake and eat it too. It aligns doing good with both saving the planet and saving money. In other words, sustainability only works when there’s a business case for it (one that in the end, puts more profits in the pockets of the corporation).
2. And the other focus has been on eco efficiency or decoupling. You might be familiar with the life cycle assessment or LCA, which quantifies the environmental impact per unit of product or service. This ignores the question of volume or quantity, and instead, only evaluates products on an individual level.

So, while you may or may not be familiar with the above ideas – they have driven the way sustainability has been spoken about and addressed from a mainstream lens over the last few decades.

Turns out, these approaches HAVE NOT WORKED. Over the last 30 years, with all the investment in CSR departments and sustainability marketing and the focus on eco and organic and recycled and circularity, we are still standing in the same place. Or maybe even worse. Our total material or resource use has not decreased – instead, it has actually gone up.

According to this week’s guest, there are many ways to get us back on track – but one of the keys involves focusing on LABOR, not MATERIALS.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “A Friedman Doctrine — The Social Responsibility Of Business Is To Increase Its Profits”, article by Milton Friedman that changed the focus of how business operates
• “H&M Plans to Double Sales, Halve Carbon Footprint by 2030”
• “Factor Four: Doubling Wealth, Halving Resource Use”, book published in 1997 that aligns with H&M’s recent plans to double sales & halve footprint (basically, this shows how the “make more and reduce impact” approach isn’t a new concept
• “Could Living Wages Help Solve Fashion’s Climate Crisis? New Research Says Yes”, article by Elizabeth Cline for Forbes
• “There Is No Such Thing as a Green Product”, article co-written by Roland
• Nisolo’s Sustainability Facts Label that Kestrel mentions
• Video about apparel recycling that Patagonia did in collaboration with Roland
• “Upset about the plastic crisis? Stop trying so hard”, op-ed that Roland wrote for The Guardian
• “Humans have made 8.3bn tons of plastic since 1950. This is the illustrated story of where it's gone”, illustrated story by Susie Cagle
• Follow Roland on Twitter >
• Follow Bren School at UCSB on Instagram >

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In episode 261, Kestrel welcomes Marula Tsagkari, a degrowth advocate and PhD candidate at the University of Barcelona in the Department of Economics, to the show. Marula’s work focuses on energy communities, energy self-sufficiency, and energy democracy. "Degrowth is not about austerity, it’s not about living in a primitive way in a cave — nothing like that. And of course degrowth is not COVID-19 lockdown. It’s about happiness, it’s about wellbeing, it’s about living happy with less things. And what real happiness is for each and every one of us — I think I will leave it up to all of you to decide, what real happiness means for you." -Marula

For many people, a degrowth world is a utopia – and to some, that means it’s totally unrealistic. Yet to others, it means we can strive to reconstruct a world with many of these ideals at the core of how we exist, and while it may take time, it is possible.

This week’s guest is a degrowth advocate and also a lover of fashion. Many may instantly think that the two cannot coexist.

Even other degrowth advocates in our guest’s field have in a sense turned their noses up at her, scoffing at the idea of degrowth and fashion coinciding.

At one event that she organized, a fellow degrowther said, “there will be no high heels in a degrowth world.”

No high heels? Really?

For our guest – high heels are totally welcome in a degrowth world. As she reminds us, high heels don’t have to be made in a fast fashion way – they could be a form of art and if someone wants to wear high heels and they feel good in them, they should be able to wear them.

As our guest reminds us, there’s a misconception that the fashion industry and fashion art are synonymous – but she definitely doesn’t buy into that.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “Degrowth means the abolition of economic growth as the main goal of our society … in other words, it means liberating ourselves from the idea of growth that mistakenly, we have made the religion, the dogma, of our societies.” (8:38) -Marula
• “We cannot discuss climate change without discussing capitalism, and we cannot discuss degrowth without discussing alternatives to capitalism and social transformation.” (9:08) -Marula
• “Scale can be different for everyone, but I think for me, what we need to do is move to a lower scale, so start talking more about the local level, about the community level. We don’t need all of us to have access to the same clothes at the same time. We don’t need 25 different fashion seasons. I think that what we need to do is actually to descale, go lower, and start supporting our local store, our local designer, and understand that there’s no way that a local designer can produce of course this amount of clothes at the same time frame that a bigger company was doing. I don’t know, we expect a writer to write 2 books during their own life, but we expect a designer to produce 25 different seasons in one year. So, I think we need to scale down a bit our expectations and start focusing more on our community level, on our local level.” (26:10) -Marula
• “Rethinking Fashion: A Confession Of A Degrowth Advocate”, article by Marula on Resilience
• I CAN MAKE SHOES, IG account that teaches you how to make shoes (Kestrel mentions it)
• “Why Degrowth Is The Only Responsible Way Forward”, article coauthored by Marula on Open Democracy
• Research & Degrowth (R&D) Organization
• Explore more of Marula’s work here >
• Follow Marula on Twitter >

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Episode 260 is a special edition recap episode that highlights what we learned in season 5. This show is intended to help us gain perspective, so we can move more intentionally into season 6.

“We need everybody pursuing intersectionality, environmentalism, sustainability — like, whatever you’re latching onto in terms of progress, latch onto it, but do it in a healthy way that’s manageable in the longterm.” -Diandra Marizet, ep 211 As I reflect on season 5, I would say there was a lot of GROWTH. Now, when I say growth, I’m doing my best to separate it from the capitalistic-driven mindset that surrounds us that aligns growth solely with economics and $$$$$.

The growth I felt through season 5 was very contextual – it was about stepping back and truly understanding what is happening in fashion. The incredible guests that joined me through these episodes really challenged me to think beyond the fashion industry bubble, and to further understand how systems of oppression operate, how they impact the way fashion functions today, and how fashion in and of itself perpetuates these harmful systems through its origins and structure.

Concluding Season 5 feels like an important step for me. It featured interviews with many guests that I admire deeply, and it really reminded me that if we don’t slow down to understand how far we’ve come, we can’t move forward with clarity and intention.

The special episode weaves us through some of the highlights from the season – some of the quotes that made an impact on me, and that I continue to circle back to, in my continual quest to unveil and discover more about the intersections of fashion and sustainability.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• The Root: Decolonizing The Sustainable Fashion Agenda with Dominique Drakeford >
• “We need everybody pursuing intersectionality, environmentalism, sustainability — like, whatever you’re latching onto in terms of progress, latch onto it, but do it in a healthy way that’s manageable in the longterm.” -Diandra Marizet on episode 211
• “I really push for the narrative of 'you are your own environmentalist' that includes Indigenous experiences, ancestral knowledge if you are Indigenous, cultural-based experiences for BIPOC individuals or just lived experiences that you've had that you don't resemble to environmentalism.” -Isaias Hernandez on episode 214
• “Another thing that I love to always mention is to just not feel so lost in the consumerism part of sustainability, because that goes back to colonialism, that goes back to the mindset of capitalism where people think they have to purchase in order to be a part of something, and I always love to mention that we were brought to think that we were the problem because corporations didn’t want to take accountability for their mistakes, but in actuality, we are the solution.” -Reza Cristián on episode 213
• “Angela Davis said in a recent conversation she had with Yara Shahidi that there’s a difference between having information and having knowledge … you can Google something and have information about avocado pits but you’re not suddenly the expert or the most knowledgeable on the subject — and I think people need to start to reflect on that and the differences there and really pay homage and give credit to and space to the actual experts and the actual folks who hold the knowledge and the understanding of these practices.” -Katie Pruett on episode 217
• “Especially now, with things really coming to a tipping point of sorts, with so many different environmental and social issues — I think people still need to continue to have hope, because the main point of destructive or oppressive systems is for people to become weary and to become hopeless.” -Maya Penn on episode 218
• “For me, disruption is about recognizing systems because you study them, and then committing in the perennial marathon effort to see where there’s room and a need for radical reimagining.” -Kimberly McGlonn on episode 219
• “Fashion is in the business of creating culture — we are culture creators — that is an immense power that we have is the influence of creating communities in culture. And, the fact that we have an opportunity to shape what the next culture becomes is a tremendous privilege, yet unfortunately I constantly see that we are taking that privilege for granted — we are not using it to the best of its ability. And that is why now that I’m slowly building this brand, I want to make an impact toward the change this industry deserves.” -Selina Sanders on episode 222
• “Really the biggest achievement of all to-date was making this sort of bold decision to pivot our business model to operate entirely direct-to-consumer, and I think really now — our values and our business model actually align.” -Maggie Hewitt on episode 223
• “In sciences, and especially the environmental sciences, we think of everything as a system. Everything is interconnected and there are ramifications for every decision made, every act that’s taken, every resource used, and even social systems play into that — which is part of the reason why I loved the environmental sciences so much, because you see how this theory or this phenomena impacts people on a day-to-day, and then you can figure out — is this a balanced system or is this co-beneficial and things like that. And so, in my business, I look at it exactly the same way.” -Gina Stovall on episode 224
• “We pride ourselves in providing tools, resources, highlighting thought leaders, sharing about changemakers and being a source for Indigenous perspective on society’s current events — and that is us providing our community with what’s needed to reclaim one’s culture, reclaim identity and reclaim Indigenous story through accurate representation.” -Chantel Keiko Ricks on episode 225
• “So much of what we do is working with frontline organizers, so that they can tell their own stories — inviting them to come write for us, creating space so that they’re not just quoted in an article, but they’re writing the article. And I think that there’s sometimes hesitance to do that in the media industry, out of this sort of obsession with objectivity — I think is honestly what sometimes drives some of that. And we do that in a way that, we’re not here to necessarily push an agenda, but we’re here to give people space to tell their truth, tell their stories and to educate the public about the battles that many of these people are fighting.” -Yessenia Funes on episode 227
• “In most of the societies, cloth is just, it’s essential, it’s considered something that contains the human spirit and it’s the layer next to the skin — you know, it has all those meanings. And cloth is essential from what you’re wound in the moment of birth to what you’re wound in at the grave.” -Catherine McKinley on episode 228
• “Because engineering is often about innovation and about the future, we’re never told to study the past or even the current systems — it’s always about create, create, create more, innovate more and think about the future. But again, if we don’t take into account that context and that history, then we’re just going to perpetuate those same problems over and over again.” -Kiana Kazemi on episode 230
• “I think the narrative of the sustainable fashion world when it first became trendy was that you had to be disciplined in your approach to sustainable fashion, and I think that sort of also paralleled the need to streamline your color. But, now that people are starting to realize that sustainable fashion doesn’t only mean shopping from curated capsule wardrobe brands — they’re also seeing that they can go thrifting, and find these really cool, fun textures and repurpose the stuff that they’re already wearing … it’s really cool to see that color and those textures playing out right now in sustainable fashion, because it feels in a way with all of this color, more inclusive.” -Kara Fabella on episode 232
• “We’re gonna be really vocal with our platform to show people that we don’t need to be following these trends. I think trends is what has pushed this overconsumption in massive amounts. And there’s the misconception that trends are the only fun clothes you can use — like trendy clothes equal fun and sustainable clothes equal boring, which is absolutely not the case at all.” -Lottie Bertello on episode 234
• “I’m trying to reclaim the word influence because I think the word is so special and so powerful. Like I said earlier — it’s such an honor to be able to influence others to do things. Like with all things with capitalism, it just takes it and commodifies it, but I think we can go back to the definition of what influence is, which is to have an effect on others, and I want to be a positive influence and a good influence to encourage others to think new ways and try new things and be encouraged and be empowered.” -Jazmine Rogers on episode 238
• “Nowadays, sustainable or sustainability — it means different things to different people. To you, it might mean plastics and to me, it might mean human rights or circularity or carbon. You know — it’s so broad. I just think we need to move away from this broad brush approach to the subject and I guess, be more specific with which issues actually we’re trying to tackle.” -Lauren Bartley on episode 239
• “The society in which we live in is very much a result of the rules of our society — in that, it is people who change the rules, who create them and can change them, I should say. And so, I think that was definitely my biggest takeaway, is like, nothing about this system that we live in right now is inevitable. You know, where women garment workers are exploited and we’re just trashing rivers and throwing up climate change-causing emissions into the air and creating this product that isn’t making us happy — that’s not an inevitability, it’s just the systems of rules that we create and have to change.” -Maxine Bédat on episode 240
• “This is where I feel the creativity is lacking — because generally, when you’re making a product, your creativity is only bound and limited to what’s viable to commerce, to how you can sell that creativity, so therefore, you cannot be fully creative if it doesn’t sell, if it’s something that doesn’t make money.” -Akilah Stewart on episode 241
• "It's about connection, connecting to everything you do and having an alternative way of looking at things. Whether it be a relationship with another being or another person or a relationship with the plants or a relationship with any aspect — anything that you interact with in the supply chain. So, when we talk about agriculture, it’s about the soil, it’s about ecosystems, it’s about the biodiversity, it’s about the animals. You know, it’s not just about not adding chemicals — it's about recreating something which we have destroyed for years and years and years." -Nishanth Chopra on episode 242
• "Self care should be an everyday thing, and it almost should be an every moment thing — like every thing that you’re doing is with intention to support yourself, to preserve yourself, so that you can then continue to go on to live your life’s purpose, whatever that may be." -Julia Perez on episode 243
• “I wanted to fill the gap of showing that you can consume less and it can actually be fun and it doesn’t have to be a sacrifice — which, like society has made it out that way — like we have to be in this constant search of more, when in fact, the opposite can actually be a very fruitful and rewarding endeavor.” -Alyssa Beltempo on episode 244
• “I think no one’s really attempted to make fashion rental about the sharing economy, to make it about women sharing with each other. It’s always been seen more as a “oh, I want to wear designer clothing” or “oh, I want to wear something new” or “oh, I have a charity gala or a ball to go to”. It’s always been for those sort of reasons — it’s never really addressed the fact that we all have enough fashion in our existing wardrobes.” -Eshita Kabra-Davies on episode 245
• “Fashion was never just about the garment or the clothes — I felt like it really is an ethos. Like fashion is about the restaurants you like to eat, the movies you like to watch, the museums you go to with your friends on the weekend, where you like to travel to on holiday. And creating this world of evolution, because as we get older, we change; we’re evolutional beings, and how our wardrobe is affected by that.” -Nia Thomas on episode 246
• “I think of something like ribbon work in my culture — like every color of the ribbon means something, or maybe it represents someone in your life or like you said, intention is first and foremost. How it looks is important, but why it’s there is even more important. And so, I’m drawn to anyone who also approaches design that way.” -Christian Allaire on episode 247
• “While it’s mainstream now, it’s important to recognize where it comes from, and the adversity that was faced from doing so back in the day. You know, we’re at a point where it’s a little more accepted, which is amazing, but before we go into marketing everything as genderless, I think it’s important to know the struggle that came from crossdressing or drag or even participating in genderless fashion to begin with.” -Isiah Magsino on episode 249
• “We have these brands, and we have people kind of saying — ok, I need to tick this box and I need to do this and I need to make sure that I have women of color in our photo shoots and our editorial campaigns, and I need to make sure x, y and z. And that to me is why diversity is tokenistic, because it’s not happening from the roots, it’s not happening from the foundation, it’s not happening from a system that was built by BIPOC and for BIPOC.” -Natalie Shehata on episode 250
• “I think right now — what nonbinary fashion means to me is just dressing the way that I want to dress without worrying about how the fashion industry would label it or how the person that maybe created it would label it, and just focus more about how it feels on my body or how it aligns with how I want to express myself at the time. So, sort of living outside of any of the labels and just focusing on what feels great to me.” -Francisco Diaz on episode 251
• “Part of the sourcing is seeing what’s abundant out there and kind of designing around that.” -Sara Gourlay on episode 252
• “You think about all the different areas that touch fashion and fashion, in respect, it touches as well. You've got immigration, you've got trade, you've got tax issues, you've got water resource issues, you have sustainability issues, you have labor issues, you have a myriad of issues that are currently handled in Washington in a dozen different agencies. So, the idea of the fashion czar was to pull someone who could look at all these different spaces (sort of at the 30,000 foot level) and say — 'okay, here's where we need to have everyone come together'.” -Hilary Jochmans on episode 253
• “Preloved is very much a word down here — we don’t understand the term deadstock. There is no such thing. If it can hold together, it can be used in a quilt. If it doesn’t shred in your hand, it can be used in a quilt, you know. It just depends on the person and their personal taste for doing things. Like I said, we grew up — if your zipper tore, we fixed it. If you had a hole in your pocket, we mended it. If your pants were too short, we lengthened it. If they were too long, we hemmed them. If you had a hole in your knee, we took our time, found a really old pair that were no good anywhere else, and we took time and we patched them. So, sustainability down here is just basically a way of life.” -Mary Margaret Pettway on episode 255
• “We want to offer products that are going to last for decades and for generations and that are well made, and those are the values that we want to enforce and support as a company. And so, we have made that choice — that’s the kind of promise that we want with the products that we sell. On the other hand, I don’t shame anybody who feels that they need to shop some of these [fast fashion] brands, because sometimes, the people who are the most price-constrained, they are the best at taking care of their clothes for a long time.” -Shilla Kim-Parker on episode 256
• “The people that are currently in the industry — they say diversity and inclusivity, they say sustainability but they don’t really know what it is, so for me — let me catch the kids when they’re younger, right? So that when they get into the industry, they’re not cultural appropriating, they are thinking about hiring diversity within their teams, they are thinking about, you know, what are some systems that I can put into place to make sure that this brand that I’m working for is ethical, has a corporate social responsibility, and is sustainable all at the same time.” -Farai Simoyi on episode 257
• “We have to ask ourselves — on a planet where there is not endless resources, is this the attitude that we want to lead ourselves into the future on? If we are really approaching planetary limits, I think it’s actually time for us to maybe have some cultural shifts in how we view what is enough and what we should want out of life.” -Aja Barber on episode 258
• “Our thirst for change is unquenchable — and the more that people feel like they have agency in that, is the more that degrowth becomes possible.” -Georgina Johnson on episode 259
• “We have to be willing to discuss how the human experience is so much more nuanced than just — this is good, this is bad, and you gotta be on either side of the aisle or you’re wrong. It’s: we’re all human, we all need to do better, and the ways we’re gonna dismantle the system are by changing the way we approach consumption, being more mindful to reuse the things in our lives, but also being patient with ourselves as we slowly make that transition.” -Mikaela Clark on episode 235

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In episode 259, Kestrel welcomes Georgina Johnson, London-based artist, curator and social thinker, to the show. Georgina is the founder of arts and curation platform The Laundry and the editor of The Slow Grind: Finding Our Way Back to Creative Balance.

“Our thirst for change is unquenchable — and the more that people feel like they have agency in that, is the more that degrowth becomes possible.” -Georgina

Conversations around degrowth are beginning to infiltrate the fashion space – but thus far, I have been pretty skeptical when I see it discussed in mainstream publications or by bigger brands, because it feels strangely familiar, like it’s quickly going to become the next buzzword the industry co-opts for marketing purposes.

I discovered this week’s guest in a somewhat desperate Google attempt to uncover anything about fashion and degrowth with substance on the interwebs.

In the article I found – “It’s Time For Brands To Engage With Degrowth” – Georgina writes that growth is taking a backseat to a pursuit of equity and balance, and I was instantly enthralled and wanted to learn more.

Turns out, she is also the author of a beautiful new book called The Slow Grind.

While the book explores ideas to help us find our way back to creative balance, through a multitude of lenses – something that really struck me was how it weaves mental health into the sustainability or regenerative narrative – something I rarely see directly linked.

For example – the book reminds us to reflect on what we currently value in our society.

We revere things like – speed, working all the time, doing jobs beyond our pay grade, and keeping our mental health a secret – so yeah, the aspects that we quote unquote value seem to be inevitably leading us down a path to eventual burnout … AKA a mandatory slow down.

Centering an awareness of our current pace – this week’s guest reminds us that expanding our views on what a path to a better world looks like is key to lasting transformation.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “It’s Time For Brands To Engage With Degrowth”, article Kestrel mentions that Georgina wrote for The Future Laboratory
• "Sometimes I really think like -- why do you need to grow so much? Why does there need to be 4 H&Ms on Oxford Street? Why? Why do there need to be multiple Zaras? This is one street. And there are multiples of one store on this one road. To me, it doesn't make sense. The growth agenda is really just rooted in greed, because you don't need to own everything.” -Georgina
• Order Georgina’s book The Slow Grind >
• The Slow Grind press >
• Follow Georgina on Instagram >
• Follow The Slow Grind on Instagram >

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In episode 258, Kestrel welcomes Aja Barber, a writer, stylist & consultant, to the show. Aja’s new book, Consumed - The Need For Collective Change: Colonialism, Climate Change & Consumerism is mandatory reading for anyone who wears clothes.

“We have to ask ourselves — on a planet where there is not endless resources, is this the attitude that we want to lead ourselves into the future on? If we are really approaching planetary limits, I think it’s actually time for us to maybe have some cultural shifts in how we view what is enough and what we should want out of life.” -Aja

In her new book, Aja writes:
“Please stop referring to this system as affordable. The planet cannot afford the environmental costs, and neither can most of its inhabitants.”

This is something I noticed woven across several chapters – the idea of affordability and the nuanced detriment that this sentiment can have on the overall fashion conversation.

When we say affordability, who are we really thinking about?
Probably primarily ourselves. What can I say, we do live in a very ME-oriented society.

Are we thinking about who made our clothes? Are we thinking about the impact those clothes had on the environment in which they were made? Probably not.

And while privilege is absolutely wound up into this – the idea that sustainable fashion must be affordable is just another way that we’re trying to cut and paste a better option into an already crappy system.

We can’t just replace fast fashion with sustainable fashion, and move on. We can’t expect that to remedy the absolute mess that we are living in.

As Aja says, WE NEED A CULTURE SHIFT.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “What do we have to gain by being credited by all the things?” -Aja
• “I don’t read one news site only — I read a lot of different news sites. And I just think — you know, when we silo ourselves, obviously, we’re missing out.” -Aja
• “I think what people forget is that existing in a marginalized body and existing in a world that is ultimately a white supremacy that doesn’t like fat people, that doesn’t really care for Black people — there’s so many strikes against me. And when I am out there in the larger world, I have to deal with people who do not share my views on a lot of things, always. You can’t avoid that, and so people act like because you have boundaries on social media, that you just want to live in an echo chamber, while not realizing that people like me don’t actually get the right to ever live in an echo chamber. You don’t get to pick your coworkers, you don’t get to pick your family, and you don’t get to pick your classmates, but you do get to pick your friends and you get to pick your online spaces, so, I’m gonna make online spaces as boundaried as I possibly can, because for every other space that I exist in, I’m gonna run up against some stuff that quite frankly I’m tired of.” -Aja
• “The one thing we all can do is SLOW DOWN.” -Aja
• Order Aja’s book Consumed >
• Follow Aja on Instagram >

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In episode 257, Kestrel welcomes fashion entrepreneur, Farai Simoyi, to the show. Having designed and consulted for many notable names — including Beyonce, Jay-Z and Justin Timberlake — you may also recognize Farai from Netflix’s “Next In Fashion”. Since that appearance, she has continued to promote her design work while elevating global artisans and designers through her company, The Narativ House.

“Fashion is going in a space where it’s like — how does it feel? I think fashion is going into more of a feeling space. Like does this feel good? Yes or no? Does this design make sense? Am I just creating to create or am I creating with a purpose?” -Farai

This week’s guest is a designer, an educator, an entrepreneur … and you may recognize her from Netflix’s “Next In Fashion”. When she spoke up on stage during the judging of episode 4, AKA the streetwear competition, it resonated far and wide.

So a little backstory: her partner in the competition, Kiki, helped launch FUBU’s womenswear line in the ‘90s, so they were instrumental in the history of streetwear. Farai and Kiki were criticized pretty harshly on this episode by the judges, but guest judge Kerby of Pyer Moss stood up for them and wouldn’t agree to vote them off the show.

In the end, the judges didn’t send anyone home after the streetwear competition, but then, the following week, they were sent home in the lingerie challenge.

For those who haven’t seen it — this is what Farai said on stage:

“The thing that I’ve noticed in the fashion industry — it’s mostly one voice that’s heard. The high end brands and designers are taking ideas from us every single day.”

And mic drop. These words were heard far and wide, and as many young people told Farai, they finally felt SEEN and HEARD.

That continues to inspire Farai’s work today — as an educator and through her brand, The Narativ.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “Once people saw the show, it blew up — my DMs were flooded with young people who were crying saying — ‘Farai, I feel the same way right now, but I don’t know how to be seen; nobody sees me’.’ -Farai
• “Go where you’re celebrated.” -Farai
• “If you’re gonna use me, I’m gonna use you too. If you wanna blast my face on this because it’s making your company look good — how can I use that to leverage myself at the same time … it’s hard to decipher who’s being real and who’s not, but if the opportunity presents itself, yeah I’m gonna use it — to leverage myself so that I can also leverage my COMMUNITY.” -Farai
• Conscious Chatter episode with Akilah Stewart that Kestrel mentions — listen here >
• “I’m really big about human-centered design, and how objects or items feel on your body or in your space, and I just always have felt good having things from home to fill my house, as opposed to going to IKEA or Crate and Barrel to fill my house.” -Farai
• “I think handmade items travel more — they travel amongst friends, amongst family members, amongst households, and they continue to have a good connection.” -Farai
• Conscious Chatter episode with Julia Perez that Kestrel mentions — listen here >
• Dr. Dawnn Karen, fashion psychologist that Farai mentions
• Fashion Design Program Director at Thomas Jefferson University
• “The people that are currently in the industry — they say diversity and inclusivity, they say sustainability but they don’t really know what it is, so for me — let me catch the kids when they’re younger, right? So that when they get into the industry, they’re not cultural appropriating, they are thinking about hiring diversity within their teams, they are thinking about, you know, what are some systems that I can put into place to make sure that this brand that I’m working for is ethical, has a corporate social responsibility, and is sustainable all at the same time.” -Farai
• “I want them to create voices for themselves.” -Farai
• "Don't be afraid to go for it. Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Don’t be afraid to make mistakes, because there’s beauty in all that. Some of the best creations and innovations in the world came from somebody’s mistake. Don’t worry about doing things right or doing things a certain way.” -Farai
• “You learn more from your failures than you do from your successes … sometimes when you learn, you fail forward.” -Farai
• The Narativ Website >
• Follow Farai on Instagram >
• Follow The Narativ on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by Wisdom, a new Black-owned app that’s being called a mix between Clubhouse and MasterClass. It's a space to chat with experts and listen to live or playback recordings. Join me for a little hang session on their platform on Friday, December 10th at 10am PST. You can find me by searching my username @CONSCIOUSCHATTER :)

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In episode 256, Kestrel welcomes Shilla Kim-Parker, the co-founder and CEO of Thrilling, to the show. The first dedicated online marketplace for secondhand and vintage stores across the U.S., Thrilling has already helped digitize more than 600 stories across the country.

“We put a lot of thought into — how do we present vintage and secondhand, because I don’t want secondhand to be thought of as a lesser, marginalized shopping experience. The goal is to get everyone in the habit of shopping secondhand and vintage, and I really believe you can’t force people to like spinach — you have to make it delightful.” -Shilla

So, we’ve definitely touched on this in the past, but when it comes to the secondhand market — there is no doubt that the sector is going through a GROWTH SPURT.

According to ThredUp’s 2021 Resale Report, the $36 billion secondhand market is projected to double in the next 5 years, reaching $77 billion, while the fast fashion market share is expected to stay relatively flat.

As you may have seen, many brands are now building an in-house secondhand arm into their businesses, as everyone seems to be trying to find a way to capitalize on some of this explosive market.

Is this helpful or is it just another way for bigger brands to make another buck off of us?

There are a lot of hands reaching in to try to grab a piece of this secondhand pie.

This week’s guest isn’t solely looking at secondhand as a profit opportunity — as an advocate for small business, she’s very intentional about how secondhand is presented, because she doesn’t want it to be thought of as a lesser, marginalized shopping experience.

Her platform has already helped digitize over 600 thrift stores across the U.S. — 95% of them being women and/or Black and Indigenous People Of Color - owned. As she shares, vintage and secondhand can be exciting not just to the vintage shopper, but to every shopper.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “There are more of these stores across the U.S. than Starbucks and McDonald’s combined, easy. And they collectively have billions of already hand picked, curated inventory. Each store has thousands of individual items. And getting them online for a store owner who is usually the sole proprietor, they’re usually the sole bread winner of their household. You know, the store owners that we work with are 95% women, People of Color. They’re the janitor, they’re the accountant, they’re the customer service, they’re the sourcer for the stores, they’re already juggling so much, they don’t feel like they have a lot of time.” -Shilla (15:28)
• “We want to offer products that are going to last for decades and for generations and that are well made, and those are the values that we want to enforce and support as a company. And so, we have made that choice — that’s the kind of promise that we want with the products that we sell. On the other hand, I don’t shame anybody who feels that they need to shop some of these [fast fashion] brands, because sometimes, the people who are the most price-constrained, they are the best at taking care of their clothes for a long time.” -Shilla (29:00)
• Thrilling’s Website >
• Follow Thrilling on Instagram >

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In episode 255, Kestrel welcomes Mary Margaret Pettway, a fourth generation Gee’s Bend Quilter, and designer Greg Lauren, to the show. Mary Margaret and Greg have recently been part of a collaboration titled MOSAIC: Gee’s Bend & Greg Lauren.

“Quilting and sewing gives you a freedom that is totally different. You got a sense of pride in what you wear, what you like — and if you make it, it’s all the better.” -Mary Margaret

Gee’s Bend, Alabama is a rural community with deep historical roots connected to quilting. Emanating textile wisdom, the women of Gee’s Bend have created hundreds of masterpieces.

This week’s conversation is the fruit of a unique partnership between Gee’s Bend’s quilters and designer Greg Lauren. Before we get into more of what this entails, I want to share some words by Jonathan Michael Square, the curatorial partner for this collaboration, from a piece called “Beloved Patches of Orange”.

“The use of old clothing is a reminder of the resourcefulness and creativity of African Americans resulting from slavery. The genius of the Gee’s Bend quilters has had a transformative impact on how scholars and curators understand the diversity and complexity of African American creative expression and Black abstract expressionism borne out of the crucible of slavery. Within the fields of fiber and textile studies, the work of the Gee’s Bend quilters has been consistently referenced since the community started getting the attention that it deserved in the mid-20th century.

Ultimately, the collaboration between Gee’s Bend and Greg Lauren is a creative ping-pong match between a community of master needle workers and a purveyor of reworked American sportswear. Lauren, who is an artist first, uses his brand as a canvas to work out the complexity of American identity in the most radical ways. The collaboration is a conduit for shedding more light on this under acknowledged group of artists whose work is often relegated pejoratively to the realm of craft, despite sustained interest from scholars, curators, and collectors.”

On the show, we explore more on what an equitable collaboration means to Mary Margaret and Greg Lauren, and how they’ve intentionally built a model that can be replicated by / with others in the future.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “Preloved is very much a word down here — we don’t understand the term deadstock. There is no such thing. If it can hold together, it can be used in a quilt. If it doesn’t shred in your hand, it can be used in a quilt, you know. It just depends on the person and their personal taste for doing things. Like I said, we grew up — if your zipper tore, we fixed it. If you had a hole in your pocket, we mended it. If your pants were too short, we lengthened it. If they were too long, we hemmed them. If you had a hole in your knee, we took our time, found a really old pair that were no good anywhere else, and we took time and we patched them. So, sustainability down here is just basically a way of life.” -Mary Margaret (27:46)
• “Recycling and repurposing to me actually started with this idea that I used to speak about called recycling image. I wanted to change the way we saw clothing and wanted to change the way we saw archetypes and what those pieces of clothing meant.” -Greg (40:35)
• “Around 2018, I started to look more specifically at this idea of Americana — and I say that because I was exposed to the word Americana and all the visual references of Americana really as this, almost a stylistic symbol of something that was completely vague and half-told. And I had this creative idea of — well, so we’ll reinterpret quilts. I had never used quilts before, but quilts to me were something that were so symbolic of an idea of Americana, an idea of America. Usually, such a small part of the story was actually told. And that started to bother me, because I literally was guilty of exploring red and white quilts, blue and white quilts. I put that into Google and I just started seeing all these quilts that I had seen so often as representative of Americana … later in 2020, it was the first time there were some transformative conversations and deep dive into the history of some of our aesthetics, that I discovered Gee’s Bend. And I literally saw a few quilts — specifically a couple by Mary Lee Bendolph and Annie Mae Young … and what started with seeing the work clothes quilts that so many people may not — I certainly didn’t realize — were such a huge part of the history of Gee’s Bend quilters … And I thought — well, thank you very much to the history and legacy of Gee’s Bend, because without that, there’s no way any of us working today work with scraps and remnants, and we’re all so proud of our initiatives, but that doesn’t exist without the work that came before us. And while it’s great to now bring it now to the forefront of what we’re doing as creatives, we’ve gotta credit the story and embrace the legacy and history of it.” -Greg (41:55)
• “Mary Margaret said something very profound when we were together in Los Angels. She said that, you know, people have been taking from Gee’s Bend for a long, long time. That they come down, spend time together, buy a quilt, and then they’re never heard from again. And then, they go and sell it for so much more money somewhere down the road. And, we wanted to just create a different model where the women whose artwork is being celebrated and that is what these garments are made of — that they would have an opportunity to participate in the financial success of the project as well." -Greg (1:02:15)
• Jonathan Michael Square, curatorial partner for MOSAIC & author of "Beloved Patches Of Orange"
• MOSAIC: Gee’s Bend x Greg Lauren
• Nest x Gee’s Bend
• Souls Grown Deep
• Follow Gee’s Bend Quilters on Instagram >
• Follow Greg Lauren on Instagram >

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In episode 254, Kestrel welcomes Johnathan Hayden, is an independent designer, to the show. Focused on the intersections of fashion, technology and art, Johnathan is adamant about using his brand as an experiment to make fashion better.

“There’s an unconscious collective change that needs to happen for people to sort of get it and you know, it can’t be so profit driven, but I do think that creativity is such a divine gift that lends itself to rethink, reimagine antiquated systems, so that design isn’t just about being beautiful — it really is about being better.” -Johnathan

When it comes to building a more sustainable brand, I find a lot of discussions end up leading to the ways that designers or brands are working to resist the industry’s flows (or the typical ways that the system has been built to do business). And the challenges that come with that are ABUNDANT.

It’s not as easy to use fabric that’s more challenging to source or it’s not as easy to make lower quantities to reduce waste or it’s not as easy to repurpose something as it is to start with a roll of fabric.

Basically, when brands are asking more questions about their supply chain, they end up headed down a sort of unexpected trail of more and more unknowns that require creative problem solving to move forward.

And sometimes, those creative trails that brands forge (which seem like the right thing to do) are met with road blocks by others in the industry, who aren’t prepared to let go of ideas around profit and ownership that have permeated fashion for years.

Johnathan has embraced those unknowns and that journey — he talks about his brand as an experiment, and he’s intentionally using it as a learning avenue to discover ways to improve on how fashion brands operate.

We also explore some of the ways that technology and sustainability intersect, when it comes to augmented reality and NFTs.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “His creation of versatile luxury ready-to-wear separates attracts the attention of fashion-loving women in STEM related careers. Intent to dress the modern intellect, he designs for those who navigate the world brain before body.” -on who Johnathan designs for
• Upcycling collaboration between John Galliano and Tomo Koizumi that Johnathan mentions
• “There are real issues that I don’t think are being talked about in the argument about sustainability that get into exclusivity of fabric ownership and culpability and responsibility from the brand or the manufacturer to manage their waste.” -Johnathan
• Viral TikTok by @thetrashwalker that Johnathan mentions, showing off slashed Coach bags
• BRAVE NEW CLOTHES: ANIMATING FASHION EXPERIENCES THROUGH AUGMENTED REALITY — Johnathan’s graduate project at SCAD
• “Immaterial gains: the NFT boom comes for fashion” by Whitney Bauck in Financial Times
• Follow Johnathan on Instagram >
• Follow Johnathan Hayden [the brand] on Instagram >

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In episode 253, Kestrel welcomes Hilary Jochmans, the founder of consulting firm Politically In Fashion, to the show. Politically In Fashion & Hilary’s name have been popping up a lot in the fashion space, after she helped pen an official letter to President Biden, calling for him to appoint a fashion czar.

“You think about all the different areas that touch fashion and fashion, in respect, it touches as well. You've got immigration, you've got trade, you've got tax issues, you've got water resource issues, you have sustainability issues, you have labor issues, you have a myriad of issues that are currently handled in Washington in a dozen different agencies. So, the idea of the fashion czar was to pull someone who could look at all these different spaces (sort of at the 30,000 foot level) and say — 'okay, here's where we need to have everyone come together'.”
-Hilary

Have you heard any of the chatter advocating for a fashion czar? And you may be asking - what in the world is a czar anyways?

Throughout history, the U.S. government has appointed czars for various reasons — they have focused on the auto industry, drugs, energy, and beyond. A czar is basically someone senior in the administration who has a very defined role and mission and most importantly - someone who has the ear of the President.

Hilary helped pen a letter to President Biden earlier this year, requesting that his administration appoint a FASHION czar to help regulate fashion like other big sectors — and to help elevate the issues and needs of the fashion & retail industry directly to the President.

This is just a glimpse of what we explore on the show. It’s all about the politics of fashion — from requesting a fashion czar to breaking down what The Green Guides mean, to unveiling more ways we can all get involved, this conversation is centered around deconstructing how policy intersects with fashion and sustainability.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “President Biden, Appoint A Fashion Czar!” in Fast Company, the original article by Elizabeth Segran that sparked the idea to send a letter to President Biden
• “I think the days of just ignoring government and pretending that there’s not going to be regulation — I think those days are over.” -Hilary
• If you don’t know who your members of Congress are — go to congress.gov and type in your address, and they will pop up.
• In their last update (2012), The Green Guides DID NOT touch on sustainability and they DID NOT touch on organic and natural.
• “I think it’s important — even if we don’t define the word sustainability — that we put some sort of guardrails on the term, cause if you’re just throwing the term around — this is sustainable, that’s sustainable, and there’s nothing to back it up, it’s gonna lose all meaning.” -Hilary
• “Speaking of beauty and cosmetics, The Cosmetics Act has not been updated since 1934.” -Hilary
• “FTC’s Updated ‘Green Guides’ Could Clamp Down on Greenwashing” in WWD
• “The Politics Of Fashion” in Marie Claire
• “Allbirds, ThredUp, More Ask Biden to Appoint ‘Fashion Czar’” in WWD
• ““We Have The Power Of The Purse”: Why It’s Our Duty To Keep Up The Good Things Happening In Fashion” in Vogue
• Federal Advocacy Guide by Politically In Fashion
• Green Guides 101 by Politically In Fashion
• Politically In Fashion website >
• Follow Politically In Fashion on Instagram >

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In episode 252, Kestrel welcomes Sara Gourlay, the Creative Director at Frankie Collective, to the show. A brand dedicated to innovating women’s streetwear, Frankie Collective is also setting a standard for sustainability in the fashion industry.

“I guess we’re really just trying to disrupt the industry — there can be another way to do business, and that’s to consider the impact of garments on people and the planet. That’s the way it should be — from using conscious materials to ethical manufacturing processes to investing in community empowerment, our mission is just to be a part of that change toward better business in the fashion industry.” -Sara

UPCYCLING. What comes to mind when you hear that word?

I think there are some stereotypes still lingering, that may not totally live up to the exceptional upcycling work that’s happening in fashion.

As this week’s guest points out - upcycling is just simply the process of taking something old and turning it into something new. Of which, of course, is NOT something new, and has been happening for ages in different capacities.

But on a business scale, I’m always curious how brands can make upcycling work. When we think about a fashion supply chain, so much of today’s systems have been based around optimization, efficiency, speed, and cost reduction.

Reworking products that already exist does not necessarily help a company achieve those goals, the ones most fashion brands are striving for. From sourcing to cutting to sewing to even product listing - the struggle is real when you’re reconstructing garments, BUT some brands are making it all work and they are making it look beyond cool in the process.

This week’s guest shares more on the challenges and creative ways they are navigating this space, and how by altering an existing garment, they strive to add value to extend products’ lifecycles.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “Part of the sourcing is seeing what’s abundant out there and kind of designing around that.” -Sara
• “Cutting a single rework garment, it can take us up to an hour and a half for one piece, so I think that’s something people don’t really know about — just how much work goes into the bundling and cutting stage, before it’s even sewn.” -Sara
• Frankie Collective website >
• Follow Sara on Instagram >
• Follow Frankie Collective on Instagram >
• *correction — Sara mentioned that Frankie Collective was launched in 2017, but they initially launched in 2014

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In episode 251, Kestrel welcomes Francisco Diaz of CiscoSews to the show. An upcycling designer, Francisco created CiscoSews, a slow fashion sewing studio, to experiment with garment making.

**“There is just so much waste right now that we’re all seeing that we need to slow it down and reuse, and focus less on having the perfect brand new piece — that’s never going to happen.” -Francisco** On the show, we’re always searching for context and looking for definitions to help support the ideas we talk about. At the same time, the more I learn - and let’s be real - the more I UNLEARN from the binary-put-everything-inside-a-box culture around us, the more I realize that in many circumstances, we must welcome a myriad of definitions.  One question we ask on this week’s show is —

What does nonbinary fashion mean to you?

I think we often fail to welcome that myriad I mentioned, when we think about nonbinary fashion. Nonbinary does not always mean androgynous. Nonbinary fashion can look feminine, masculine, neither or both.

This week’s guest is all about living outside labels, and truly embracing what feels good to them, on the daily.

They also happen to be a super creative slow fashion sewing genius. Throughout our chat, they share more on how ditching the fashion binary has opened up more avenues for creativity to flow, in their upcycling design process.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “Just being open to different possibilities is really good for my creative process.” -Francisco
• “I think putting too many boundaries on myself — boundaries are definitely important and there’s a lot of them in sewing — but having as much of an open mind as you can with these different pieces will definitely help you out in the creative process.” -Francisco
• Friday Pattern Company
• “I think right now — what nonbinary fashion means to me is just dressing the way that I want to dress without worrying about how the fashion industry would label it or how the person that maybe created it would label it, and just focus more about how it feels on my body or how it aligns with how I want to express myself at the time. So, sort of living outside of any of the labels and just focusing on what feels great to me.” -Francisco
• “I think it frees my design process — I think it almost just opens more avenues for creativity to flow and it sort of stops the blocks of trying to fit into societal expectations of what people would wear.” -Francisco
• CiscoSews Website >
• Follow Francisco on Instagram >

This week's episode is sponsored by Ana Luisa, the first direct-to-consumer jewelry brand to become carbon-neutral.

If you’re interested in checking out Ana Luisa, you can use code CHATTER to get 10% off.

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In episode 250, Kestrel welcomes Natalie Shehata, a stylist focused on sustainability, to the show. Natalie currently works as the Retail Trainer for The Social Outfit, a Sydney-based fashion label who provides employment and training to people from refugee and new migrant communities.

“We have these brands, and we have people kind of saying — ok, I need to tick this box and I need to do this and I need to make sure that I have women of color in our photo shoots and our editorial campaigns, and I need to make sure x, y and z. And that to me is why diversity is tokenistic, because it’s not happening from the roots, it’s not happening from the foundation, it’s not happening from a system that was built by BIPOC and for BIPOC.” -Natalie

In 2018, Natalie presented a speech at the Disposable Planet seminar for Eco Fashion Week Australia titled: “How the sustainable fashion space should focus on: representation, inclusivity and visibility.”

While this was written almost 3 years ago, it continues to resonate strongly today, and has proven to make a powerful influence on the fashion community in Australia, specifically.

One aspect Natalie highlights in this speech is why diversity can be very tokenistic. The following part from that speech acknowledges some of the ideas we explore throughout this episode:

“The communities most affected by our sustainable industry decisions are Black and Brown communities, yet they are not afforded the right to take part in the decision making process. It is the White privileged, resourced and elite groups who dictate the climate of fashion – now and for the future. When we’re referring to the current climate of sustainable fashion and bringing the topic of visibility to media, we’re faced with the over saturation at the moment of words like diversity - now is the time to acknowledge how powerful language is in communicating messages. I think we need to consider the fact that the term diversity in its very nature can be quite tokenistic.”

Why diversity is tokenistic and retail training people from refugee & new migrant communities at The Social Outfit

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Tommie Magazine
• “How The Sustainable Fashion Space Should Focus on Representation, Visibility and Inclusivity”
• The Social Outfit, social enterprise Natalie works with
• Natalie’s Website (will be live soon) >
• Follow The Social Outfit on Instagram >
• Follow Natalie on Instagram >

This week's episode is sponsored by Ana Luisa, the first direct-to-consumer jewelry brand to become carbon-neutral.

If you’re interested in checking out Ana Luisa, you can use code CHATTER to get 10% off.

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In episode 249, Kestrel welcomes Isiah Magsino, a writer based in New York City, to the show. With bylines in Vogue, GQ, W, Nylon, Architectural Digest, and more, Isiah is focused on writing about the beautiful things in life.

“While it’s mainstream now, it’s important to recognize where it comes from, and the adversity that was faced from doing so back in the day. You know, we’re at a point where it’s a little more accepted, which is amazing, but before we go into marketing everything as genderless, I think it’s important to know the struggle that came from crossdressing or drag or even participating in genderless fashion to begin with.” -Isiah

One of fashion’s newest words to embrace - when it comes to marketing jargon - is GENDERLESS.

As this week’s guest points out, the term genderless is currently en vogue - and it’s starting to sound like sustainability did a few months ago. Press releases that were framed around “sustainability this or sustainability that” are now shifting to language centered around genderless or gender fluid styles.

At first glance, fashion’s embrace of genderless clothing seems fantastic (as well as being something that should have happened ages and ages ago).

But approaching genderless as a trend, not acknowledging the history of gender noncomforming dress and especially, not giving credit where credit is due — to queer and trans people who have been stepping out of the binary for hundreds of year, is where it gets super problematic.

This week’s guest recently wrote a piece for W Magazine that explores all of the above, through interviews with mostly trans women, in an effort to share more on the nuanced importance of truly dressing however the hell you want.

We explore more on why we (and the industry) must pay their respects to the LGBTQ+ community, and some of the nuance connected to fashion’s most recent obsession with genderless.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “For the LGBTQ+ Community, Fashion Has Always Been ‘Genderless’”, Isiah’s article for W Magazine that is explored in depth throughout the conversation
• Beyond The Binary by Alok Vaid-Menon, book & educator Kestrel mentions
• The Art Of Drag by Jake Hall, book Isiah recommends
• Isiah’s website >
• Follow Isiah on Instagram >

This week's episode is sponsored by Ana Luisa, the first direct-to-consumer jewelry brand to become carbon-neutral.

If you’re interested in checking out Ana Luisa, you can use code CHATTER to get 10% off.

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In episode 248, Kestrel welcomes Ocean Rose, a Yoruba artist, to the show. Focused on botanical dye, community, photography, & poetry, Ocean weaves beauty, thoughtfulness and the art of slowing down into their work.

“Sustainability’s more of a story of how — it’s probably the history of people and the things that we acquire over time. It’s all part of passing them on: cultural, familial, and ancestral idiosyncrasies. So yes and no — sustainability, it does have a meaning, but I think when we start to break down what it actually means, we can notice that it’s woven into more of our lives than we might realize.” -Ocean

Beauty ends up being a recurring theme woven throughout this conversation with Ocean — and through this conversation, she reminds us of something very important.

We live and interact within a capitalistic society, and the world tells us that we should monetize all of the things that we love. Which, case in point — this podcast is 100% a reflection of that. It is a project that over time, I have worked mindfully to develop into a business, in order to help fund this work that I love so deeply.

In her whimsical, ethereal prose, Ocean notes that we should keep some things for ourselves — especially at certain moments throughout our lives, because creative avenues can help ground us, connect us to the land, to our inner child, and to ourselves.

Botanical dyeing started as that thing for Ocean, and it has evolved gradually and intentionally into something that now also provides monetary value.

We explore the deep meaning behind botanical dyeing, the need to reframe our respect for resources by seeing the beauty in what is often considered “waste”, and questions around scalability - something that always bubbles to the top in the sustainability and fashion space.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Ocean’s website >
• Ocean’s Ko-fi >
• Follow Ocean on Instagram >
• Follow Ocean on TikTok >

This week's episode is sponsored by Ana Luisa, the first direct-to-consumer jewelry brand to become carbon-neutral.

If you’re interested in checking out Ana Luisa, you can use code CHATTER to get 10% off.

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In episode 247, Kestrel welcomes Christian Allaire, the Fashion and Style Writer at Vogue, to the show. Christian recently released his first book, titled The Power Of Style: How Fashion and Beauty Are Being Used To Reclaim Cultures.

“I think of something like ribbon work in my culture — like every color of the ribbon means something, or maybe it represents someone in your life or like you said, intention is first and foremost. How it looks is important, but why it’s there is even more important. And so, I’m drawn to anyone who also approaches design that way.”
-Christian

As a fashion-obsessed teen, Christian grew up on the Nipissing First Nation reserve in Ontario, Canada, scouring magazines or movies for style inspiration.

Years later, he realized that so much of his personal aesthetic and attraction to fashion and dressing was influenced by his own community - being Indigenous Ojibwe. From the colors to the garment making process to the deep meaning that can be embedded in clothing, his love of fashion was largely shaped in his early years, and continues to inform his writing today.

One of the chapters of Christian’s new book — The Power Of Style: How Fashion and Beauty Are Being Used To Reclaim Cultures — is focused on “Sewing Tradition”, and he explores some of the history and meaning behind ribbon work, a tradition connected to his own family’s roots. Throughout the conversation, we touch a great deal on his experience having his own ribbon shirt made as an adult, and the layers of meaning literally built into that design.

But in Christian’s new book, he also explores beyond his own heritage, highlighting and connecting with an array of communities who are all using fashion and beauty to reclaim their culture.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “I really just kind of understood more so why cultural clothing or Indigenous design is so important to keep up — it's up to us to continue these traditions, because no one else will. And so, yes I got a beautiful shirt out of it, but I think it was about way more than that for me.” -Christian
• Jamie Okuma, Indigenous designer Christian mentions
• Mobilize, Indigenous designer Christian mentions
• Tania Larsson, Indigenous designer Christian mentions
• Warren Steven Scott, Indigenous designer Christian mentions
• Keri Ataumbi, Indigenous designer Christian mentions
• Korina Emmerich, Indigenous designer Christian mentions
• “5 Shoe Lovers on Where They Shop for Heels, and Why Wearing Them Is Empowering”, article by Christian for Vogue that is mentioned
• Christian’s book Power Of Style How Fashion and Beauty Are Being Used To Reclaim Cultures >
• Follow Christian on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by For Days — they call themselves the “first closed loop clothing brand” and are dedicated to building a better, waste-free future.

If you’re interested in checking out For Days, you can use code CHATTER15 to get 15% off.

Learn more and shop at For Days.com

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In episode 246, Kestrel welcomes Nia Thomas, the founder and designer of her eponymous label, to the show. An ethically made, independent autobiographical fashion brand, Nia Thomas was created for all beings who respect Mother Earth and all of her inhabitants.

“Fashion was never just about the garment or the clothes — I felt like it really is an ethos. Like fashion is about the restaurants you like to eat, the movies you like to watch, the museums you go to with your friends on the weekend, where you like to travel to on holiday. And creating this world of evolution, because as we get older, we change; we’re evolutional beings, and how our wardrobe is affected by that.” -Nia

If you’ve taken any fashion businesses courses, or if you’re tapped into the marketing space, I would imagine that you’ve heard the idea that we need to focus on one thing and do it well. Or maybe you’ve heard about the importance of honing in on a hyper specific quote unquote demographic, to ensure you’re actually entering the market in the right way?

This week’s guest is totally resisting all of the above business ideals in the most beautiful way. From her eclectic and you could say unexpected product offering, to making styles for many bodies, Nia Thomas describes her label as an “autobiographical brand”.

On the show, she shares more on how she allows her own evolution to consistently influence her brand — giving space for Nia Thomas to continue to transition into new stages, that are reflective of her own growth as a human.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “I feel the word sustainability itself means everything and nothing at the same time — because it’s really hard to verify things.” -Nia
• Nia Thomas interview on Melanin & Sustainable Style
• “Am I a fashion designer or am I a multitasking problem solver because that’s the bulk of what it takes when you’re doing all the parts.” -Nia
• The Responsible Company by Yvon Choinard, book Kestrel mentions
• Nia Thomas YouTube >
• Follow Nia on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by For Days — they call themselves the “first closed loop clothing brand” and are dedicated to building a better, waste-free future.

If you’re interested in checking out For Days, you can use code CHATTER15 to get 15% off.

Learn more and shop at For Days.com

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In episode 245, Kestrel welcomes Eshita Kabra-Davies, the CEO and founder of By Rotation, to the show. A UK-based social fashion rental app and platform, By Rotation is dedicated to transforming the way we consume fashion.

“I think no one’s really attempted to make fashion rental about the sharing economy, to make it about women sharing with each other. It’s always been seen more as a “oh, I want to wear designer clothing” or “oh, I want to wear something new” or “oh, I have a charity gala or a ball to go to”. It’s always been for those sort of reasons — it’s never really addressed the fact that we all have enough fashion in our existing wardrobes.” -Eshita

Have you heard the recent discussion about how the rental market could have a worse impact on the planet than just throwing your clothes in the trash? It’s been circulating around across the mainstream media after a new study was released in the journal - Environmental Research Letters.

First of all — research within the fashion space is so important and necessary and needed. We are lacking in accumulated data as an industry, so it is always exciting to learn about new studies and the way they go about putting their findings together. At the same time, when it comes to research, there are going to be biases involved, every detail cannot be accounted for, and there will be some assumptions made. It’s complex, yet important to continue to question and explore the nuance with the arrival of new data and new framings of analytics.

When it comes to reports like this, it’s very important to hear from individuals on different sides of the results and to listen to multiple perspectives. On this week’s show, we talk with Eshita — the founder and CEO of By Rotation — on how they are working to make the sharing economy personal. For By Rotation, fashion rental is not another sales avenue to sell hundreds of dresses (to the rental company instead of the consumer) — it’s instead an opportunity to allow us to use / rent what we already have in our own closets.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “People are feeling pressure to always update their look, you know, always have something new happening in their lives — whether it’s going to the newest restaurant or wearing the latest handbag or whatever — there’s this pressure to always show new things. And I thought it would be so interesting if we could create a sharing economy around fashion, because fashion, turns out, is one of the most polluting industries in the world. It overtakes maritime and aviation industries combined — which is shocking because you would think that traveling and taking airplanes is the biggest contributor, but actually, it’s what we wear every day.” -Eshita
• “Innovative recycling or extended use? Comparing the global warming potential of different ownership and end-of-life scenarios for textiles” -study by Environmental Research Letters
• Follow Eshita on Instagram >
• Follow By Rotation on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by For Days — they call themselves the “first closed loop clothing brand” and are dedicated to building a better, waste-free future.

If you’re interested in checking out For Days, you can use code CHATTER15 to get 15% off.

Learn more and shop at For Days.com

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In episode 244, Kestrel welcomes Alyssa Beltempo, a Canadian slow fashion expert and stylist, to the show. Through her YouTube channel with over 144K subscribers to her Instagram and website, Alyssa is dedicated to reminding us that there is a power in advocating for creativity over consumption.

"I wanted to fill the gap of showing that you can consume less and it can actually be fun and it doesn’t have to be a sacrifice — which, like society has made it out that way — like we have to be in this constant search of more, when in fact, the opposite can actually be a very fruitful and rewarding endeavor." -Alyssa

The idea for this conversation was actually sparked when Alyssa reached out to Kestrel, after listening to episode 241 with Akilah Stewart of FATRA. In that chat, there was a lot of discussion about creativity, and Alyssa said she loved how Akilah highlighted that everyone can be creative, and that resonated a lot with her own approach to styling.

So, thanks to Akilah for inspiring the seeds for this episode!

We explore more on the power that creativity holds, when we are thinking about how to get beyond the rhetoric of consuming less, shopping your own closet when you can, how the narrative is finally shifting away from putting all of the responsibility on the shopper to address fashion’s messes, and more.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “Using less and being creative with what you have — this is not a new concept. Maybe I’m presenting it in a different way, but being more sustainable in your mindset is rooted in the way of life for poor and marginalized communities. My immigrant grandparents were reusing and being creative because that was what was available to them.” -Alyssa
• “It’s almost like we need to be a bit more materialistic in a sense — like we need to love what we have — when you love what you have, you tend to want less.” -Alyssa
• Episode 240 with Maxine Bédat
• Episode 47 with Timo Rissanen

• Power Of My People, brand that makes linen shirt Alyssa mentions

• Live virtual “Shop Your Closet” event

• Subscribe to Alyssa’s YouTube Channel >
• Follow Alyssa on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by For Days — they call themselves the “first closed loop clothing brand” and are dedicated to building a better, waste-free future.

If you’re interested in checking out For Days, you can use code CHATTER15 to get 15% off.

Learn more and shop at For Days.com

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In episode 243, Kestrel welcomes Julia Perez, the creator of Jae and Leona, to the show. Through her company — Jae and Leona — Julia offers small batch, plant + botanical skin care products, as well as in-person facial treatments. She is also an intuitive esthetician, energy healer, and model.

"Self care should be an everyday thing, and it almost should be an every moment thing — like every thing that you’re doing is with intention to support yourself, to preserve yourself, so that you can then continue to go on to live your life’s purpose, whatever that may be." -Julia

Have you felt like you’re hearing a lot more about self care over the last year or so?

I mean, let’s be real - the last year+ has been intense on so many levels - from COVID-19 to the resurgence of the Black Lives Matter movement after the murder of George Floyd to job insecurity to economic difficulties … it’s been a lot. And with all of that, there has been a heightened need to find ways to care for ourselves, in order to keep going.

But one of the things I notice is how much the growth of self care has been directly aligned with capitalism - you know, it’s companies marketing products to us, as these things we have to have to take a break, or something we need to help us rest or do something for ourselves.

When, there are so many ways we can slow down without buying anything new.

This week’s guest reminds us that self care doesn’t mean retail therapy — and that self care can be little things that we do for ourselves on a daily basis. She shares more on her work as an intuitive esthetician, how she released her own skincare line during the pandemic, some of the ways her own heritage has been built into her products, and what skincare as liberation means to her.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• Julia’s favorite ingredients?
  “There are 2 ingredients — one is tamanu, which is a nut that comes from the South Pacific that has incredible healing properties, and the other one is tulsi which is sweet basil. But both of those ingredients actually have links in history to my own heritage — my Dad is from Guam, so from the South Pacific, a lot of Natives actually used those two ingredients or those plants to do their own healing. In my research, I wanted to create a link to my own heritage and healing and really investigate and be connected to that.”
• “I hope that many businesses can really step away from the scarcity model — of like ‘you need to buy this right now or it’s no longer going to be available for you’. You know, not only is that mind frame and that model toxic, but it also doesn’t support others that may not be able to make that investment at that moment, and is kind of exclusionary in a lot of senses.” -Julia
• Jae and Leona's Awakening Hydrosol
• Jae and Leona's Bare Face Cleansing Oil
• Follow Julia on Instagram >
  for all things sustainable fashion for larger bodies
• Follow Jae and Leona on Instagram >
  for all things skincare + self care

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In episode 242, Kestrel welcomes Nishanth Chopra, the founder of Oshadi Collective, to the show, alongside Mairin Wilson, the head of regenerative practices at Christy Dawn. A regenerative farm and textile production community based in Erode, India, Oshadi Collective has been working in partnership with Christy Dawn to develop and release farm-to-closet garments.

"It's about connection, connecting to everything you do and having an alternative way of looking at things. Whether it be a relationship with another being or another person or a relationship with the plants or a relationship with any aspect — anything that you interact with in the supply chain. So, when we talk about agriculture, it’s about the soil, it’s about ecosystems, it’s about the biodiversity, it’s about the animals. You know, it’s not just about not adding chemicals — it's about recreating something which we have destroyed for years and years and years." -Nishanth

The word regenerative has been popping up in mainstream fashion conversations more regularly over the last year or so – it’s been written about in Vogue, Marie Claire, Women’s Wear Daily, and more. But a lot of the methods and concepts used in regenerative agriculture are not new at all – they're rooted in circular practices cultivated by Indigenous people over thousands of years. And they are tied to ancient practices for the cultivation of fiber and beyond.

Unfortunately, as we see over and over again, the often whitewashed sustainability movement has a reputation of taking ideas or practices from Black and Brown Indigenous communities, without giving credit or acknowledgement, and then finding new ways to repackage and commercialize them.

As I observe the word regenerative begin to infiltrate the fashion space, it’s key to ask more questions about what this concept actually means to these brands, and what the behind-the-scenes in the supply chain really looks like for them.

On this week’s show, we explore some of these ideas with Nishanth of Oshadi Collective and Mairin of Christy Dawn. The two have been working closely over the last two years in a distinct partnership — they have been working to build a new fashion system, one that is hyper-localized and regenerative, and that has now produced farm-to-closet garments.

Quotes & links from the conversation:

• “It’s really amazing when you create these regenerative systems and these systems — as Nishanth said, of trust and mutually beneficial relationships — I feel like, although it is a lot of hard work and everyone’s doing their part, it feels easy because you’re doing your part but then you’re also benefiting from it.” -Mairin
• “With regenerative, you start to have a different outlook and you think them as you, just another version of you. You treat them how you’d treat yourself — anything you interact with like soils, insects, animals, the people you work with — it’s a respectful relationship with everything you interact with. That’s what regenerative is for me.” -Nishanth
• “I just really want to make sure I play my part — you know, I can’t change the world or you know, I can’t change big systems but I can play my part to create something small, and if that kind of leaves an impact, and it can be these ripples it starts. And I can take it to a certain distance — someone after me will take it to a slightly bigger distance hopefully, and it keeps going on. I won’t be able to accomplish this in one lifetime — not anyone — because it’s been happening for such a long time, but eventually the goal is completely change the system and create a system that is fair, respectful.” -Nishanth
• Peeling Back The Layers Of The Green Revolution, episode on Art Of Citizenry podcast that has been very helpful to Kestrel when contextualizing some of the history connected to agriculture / fashion in India
• Green Dreamer episode featuring Nishanth — episode 307 — that Kestrel mentions
• Follow Oshadi Collective on Instagram >
• Follow Christy Dawn on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by Gem - an app and web platform that brings all online vintage and secondhand clothing and accessories into one search.

Learn more & download the app at Gem.app!

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In episode 241, Kestrel welcomes Akilah Stewart, the founder and creative director of FATRA, to the show. A creative waste management company, FATRA makes luxury bags from recycled plastics and fabric.

On this week’s show, Akilah shares stories about some of the ways her grandmothers have influenced her and her work today. She also reminds us of the importance of thinking about creativity as a tool for building solutions — and not just an aesthetics-oriented idea.

Kestrel and Akilah talk about the way in which we must be reimagining waste, and truly looking at it as a resource. As Akilah highlights, when so-called “waste” is generated by other animals, they are always finding creative ways to use it in different ways — it’s not something to be simply “thrown away”.

Another big topic that comes up in this conversation is financial sustainability, and some of the ways that the nuances around it have been missing from the sustainability conversation.

• “I just want to keep it going in that manner — you know, working with immigrant women, working with women who want to develop their skill sets, working with lots of marginalized groups of people — so I think that ultimately, the growth doesn’t have to mean exploitation anywhere — it just means literally doing more good for more people.” -Akilah
• Episode 4 of The Root, mentioned in the conversation — Akilah was featured in part 3 of this episode
• “We can’t be puritans to the point where we’re not seeing action.” -Akilah
• “This is where I feel the creativity is lacking — because generally, when you’re making a product, your creativity is only bound and limited to what’s viable to commerce, to how you can sell that creativity, so therefore, you cannot be fully creative if it doesn’t sell, if it’s something that doesn’t make money.” -Akilah
• “Lived experiences should be way more valued than they have been.” -Akilah
• Akilah featured on EMPOWHER NY
• Akilah featured on Metal Magazine
• Akilah quoted in Architectural Digest’s Clever
• Akilah's Upcycling Workshop on Slow Factory
• Akilah’s CashApp: $FATRA
• Follow Fatra on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way.

Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.

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In episode 240, Kestrel welcomes Maxine Bédat, the founder and executive director of New Standard Institute, to the show. A think-and-do-tank, New Standard Institute is dedicated to turning industries into a force for good. Maxine is also the author of Unraveled: The Life and Death Of A Garment.

"The society in which we live in is very much a result of the rules of our society — in that, it is people who change the rules, who create them and can change them, I should say. And so, I think that was definitely my biggest takeaway, is like, nothing about this system that we live in right now is inevitable. You know, where women garment workers are exploited and we’re just trashing rivers and throwing up climate change-causing emissions into the air and creating this product that isn’t making us happy — that’s not an inevitability, it’s just the systems of rules that we create and have to change.”
-Maxine

On this week’s show, Maxine shares more on her past journey, from law to fashion, and what has culminated in the writing of her new book — Unraveled: The Life and Death Of A Garment.

Maxine and Kestrel quickly discover their mutual love of “context”, which plays into the overall conversation. They explore more on the origins of business — something Maxine discusses in her new book — and how corporations were initially founded on democratic ideals with the intention of being for the peoples’ benefit, where citizens were also considered as shareholders in the model. This may be surprising, considering how businesses have now become aligned with profit, profit, and profit, at the expense of everything else.

Maxine helps tie some of these layers of context into how we should be looking at the current state of the fashion industry, and how we must get beyond these buzzwords (how circularity won’t save us), to move toward doing business based on equity, that exists within planetary bounds.

• “We have learned that there has been an enormous investment in getting us - citizens - to see ourselves as docile buying machines, which social media has only exacerbated, rather than powerful stakeholders in our democracy.” -quote Kestrel mentions from Maxine’s book
• “This adoption of circularity as this kind of panacea that’s gonna get us to this magical place where we can keep growing to infinity, in a land of limited resources — it’s those frameworks that are just denying really the central problem that you just identified. And I think, to me, when I first was reading about the origins of business, which as you said — it was not to maximize profit, the whole corporate forum was created as a vehicle to pool resources for public goods like bridges and hospitals. And that’s why the government of the people would give corporate paperwork and created the legal infrastructure around it. And then, as you said, it was Milton Friedman and the conversations from the ‘50s, ‘60s and ‘70s that just took this in a completely different direction, and that’s … where we now really need to have the serious conversation. We desperately and do not have any time to waste in moving beyond these like “win, win”, “triple bottom line”, “circularity” — this fluffed … how do we actually go from a society that is based now on maximizing profits for shareholders to a society that is much more equitable and that exists within planetary bounds. And nobody within business has a good answer to that right now, but that’s where the conversation has to be.” -Maxine
• “I will not just be a consumer, passively consuming while things fall apart.” -quote Kestrel mentions from Maxine’s book
• Follow Maxine on Instagram >
• Follow New Standard Institute on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way.

Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.

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In episode 239, Kestrel welcomes Lauren Bartley, the head of sustainability and CSR for GANNI, to the show. A Danish contemporary ready-to-wear fashion brand, Ganni is known for building a cult following in the fashion space.

“Nowadays, sustainable or sustainability — it means different things to different people. To you, it might mean plastics and to me, it might mean human rights or circularity or carbon. You know — it’s so broad. I just think we need to move away from this broad brush approach to the subject and I guess, be more specific with which issues actually we’re trying to tackle.” -Lauren

On this week’s show, Lauren shares a bit of background on her distinct way into the fashion industry, and how she found her way to working with Ganni.

We talk about the brand’s resistance to labeling themselves as “sustainable”, how their 44 responsibility gameplay is driving them, and some of the ways they are working to creatively reduce their overproduction and waste, by adjusting their business model.

• Soil Association - their mission is to help everyone understand and explore the vital relationship between the health of soil, plants, animals and people. Lauren worked with them in the past.
• “Brands Are Claiming That They Are Not Sustainable. Here’s Why That’s A Good Thing”, Refinery29 article Kestrel mentions
• Open Apparel Registry, an open map of global apparel facilities
• Fair Wear Foundation, Ganni is working with a consultant to further explore what a living wage means throughout their supply chain
• Fashion On Climate Report by McKinsey x Global Fashion Agenda
• circular.fashion
• Ganni’s 2020 Responsibility Report
• Ganni Repeat, Ganni’s rental platform
• Ganni’s Responsibility page
• Follow Ganni Lab on Instagram >
• Follow Ganni on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way.

Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.

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In episode 238, Kestrel welcomes Jazmine Rogers (AKA @thatcurlytop) and Gabby Masuda Ambata (AKA @gabrielasage) to the show. A Black + Mexican creator, Jazmine is passionate about sustainable fashion and living, and sharing about it in a fun and graceful way. A Japanese American digital creator, Gabby is focused on sustainable fashion and lifestyle, and she’s also a mental health advocate.

“I’m trying to reclaim the word influence because I think the word is so special and so powerful. Like I said earlier — it’s such an honor to be able to influence others to do things. Like with all things with capitalism, it just takes it and commodifies it, but I think we can go back to the definition of what influence is, which is to have an effect on others, and I want to be a positive influence and a good influence to encourage others to think new ways and try new things and be encouraged and be empowered.” -Jazmine

On this week’s show, Jazmine and Gabby share more about how they first met in college, and how valuable their friendship has been in the process of navigating their individual growth in the “influencer” space, while advocating for people and the planet.

We also explore the meaning of “influence”, whether or not Gabby and Jazmine identify as “influencers”, and some of the ways they are in favor of reclaiming the word to represent the work that they’re doing today. Jazmine and Gabby also share some of their thoughts on the complexities of growing your following amidst trauma.

• conversation with Diandra Marizet of Intersectional Environmentalist that Kestrel mentions
• conversation with Shakaila Forbes-Bell that Kestrel mentions
• Jazmine's YouTube channel
• Follow Jazmine on Instagram >
• Follow Jazmine on TikTok >
• Follow Gabby on Instagram >
• Follow Gabby on TikTok >

This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way.

Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.

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On episode 237, Kestrel welcomes Ben Mead, the Managing Director of Hohenstein Institute USA, to the show. Hohenstein Institute USA is one of the founding members of the OEKO-TEX® Association, and Ben serves as the company’s liaison with government agencies, industry collaborations and trade associations.

“Green chemistry has a kind of textbook definition around design of chemicals and processes really to help reduce or eliminate hazardous substances or the toxicity and those sort of hazard type characteristics — and so, I think that’s pretty well been defined by some of the organizations that really focus on green chemistry. I think one of the other things that’s important when we consider, or we do other work — is not only what goes into the actual chemical itself, but also how can that influence the impact of how it’s used as well.”
-Ben Mead

On this week’s show, Ben shares more on his background working in chemistry and textiles, and some of the work he does with OEKO-TEX® today.

Also, he helps explains some of the origins of OEKO-TEX® as an association, and the key differences between their certifications — STANDARD 100, MADE IN GREEN, and STeP. Kestrel also asks Ben to specify some of the ways in which OEKO-TEX® holds themselves accountable, when it comes to the validity of their labels.

Ben also walks us through the layers verified in their MADE IN GREEN label — including the way it can be traced using a unique product ID or QR code, to give shoppers access to additional detailed information about the supply chain of that product.

• MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX®
• STeP by OEKO-TEX®
• OEKO-TEX®
• Follow OEKO-TEX® on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way.

Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.

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In episode 236, Kestrel welcomes Emi Ito, a Multiracial Japanese American mother and educator, as well as Gina Stovall, the founder of Two Days Off, to the show. Emi, @littlekotoscloset on Instagram, is the founder and co-moderator of Buy From BIPOC, and Gina was featured back on episode 224. The two recently came together on a collaborative collection — The Yoko Capsule — envisaged in the spirit of Emi's late mother.

“I felt acutely my own mortality and the urgent need to leave something behind for my own child, that would also honor the creative legacy of my parents, and particularly — my mother. I come from a long line of creative, powerful women who brought beauty and art into the world.”
-Emi Ito

On this week’s show, Emi and Gina share more on what originally brought them together, and how their relationship developed into collaborating on a capsule collection. Emi walks us through what inspired her to reach out to Gina last year around her 40th birthday — a significant decade for Emi, the one in which she lost both her mother and father to AIDS.

The two came together to build The Yoko Capsule — a 5-piece collection envisaged in the spirit of Emi's late mother — and not only does the collection honor Emi’s mother’s legacy, it also sets new standards for some of the ways sustainable fashion can be more generous, accessible, and inclusive. Emi and Gina share snapshots of some of the conversations they had throughout the development process, that eventually led to the integration of intentional initiatives, in alignment with these values.

• The Yoko Capsule
• The Community Fund, a program to harness the collective power of the Two Days Off community and make sustainable options more accessible. TDO customers and supporters can opt to contribute to the fund, which will be redistributed to other community members to help subsidize their Two Days Off purchase
• Redistribution of Funds, fifteen percent of the profits from this capsule will be redistributed to organizations that reflect the values Emi’s parents instilled in her
• Black Border’s Sliding Scale Policy, Gina and Emi mention this as inspiration for their Community Fund
• Leila Kelleher, collaborated with Emi and Gina to consult on the size expansion aspect of the collection
• Reading Rainbow “Paper Crane” — episode of the iconic children’s television series, in which Emi’s mother was featured; Emi was there for the recording as a child

• Emi’s Patreon >

• Follow Emi on Instagram >

• Follow Gina on Instagram >
• Follow Two Days Off on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way.

Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.

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In episode 235, Kestrel welcomes Mikaela Clark, a visual artist and designer, to the show. The founder of Hansel, Mikaela makes handpainted, upcycled apparel in Brooklyn, New York.

“At the time, I was like hey, I’m gonna invite in whatever good is trying to worm its way into my life. And then, as we make these decisions, we grow, we learn, and we think — ok, how can I get even more nuanced, how can I make more decisions in the future that align even more with my personal ethos? What have I learned along the way that’s made me maybe want to shy away or maybe want to lean closer to the decisions I’ve made. It’s all a process and it just can’t be separated — it’s all intersectional, everything’s at play when we’re trying to have this discussion about ethical fashion.”
-Mikaela Clark

On this week’s show, Mikaela shares more on how she learned to sew from her mom at an early age, and how that nurtured her love of fashion and making clothing. After she pursued music in college, an infection led her to lose her ability to use her voice for a period of time — she started painting as an alternative creative outlet, and then eventually led her to painting garments.

Kestrel and Mikaela also explore more about Hansel’s recent collaboration with Urban Renewal (a sub-sect of Urban Outfitters) called “Sacred Space”. Mikaela shares an array of thoughts around this partnership, the intentions she went into it with, how it has been meaningful for her and what she has learned from it.

• “I think since I first learned to sew, I always knew that I wanted to have a fashion brand at some point — music was always the first love, but fashion was just something that I was so passionate about … I used to sketch little clothing brands and I would name them after my grandmas.” -Mikaela
• “It’s really grown from being just a lot of word-of-mouth commissions to being these larger bodies of work that really help carry me through tough seasons of life.” -Mikaela
• “I’m one of three sisters — we’re all different shapes and sizes and colors and all beautiful in our own way, and I didn’t feel comfortable making clothes that my sisters couldn’t wear … it’s about the long game, it’s about figuring out what your process is as you go, and doing what you can to hold that intention close to your heart, until you’re in a place where you’re able to really execute on it and make it reality.” -Mikaela
• “There are a lot of things that go into pricing, and I think having that bubble burst for a moment — it didn’t make me want to change anything that I do, but it just made me want to communicate mores the purpose and passion behind why I do what I do.” -Mikaela
• “I can’t separate my Blackness from how I approach my decisions either. And when I’m thinking about the lesser opportunities that Black people, and then more specifically Black women, and then even more specifically dark-skinned really kinky-haired Black women get to share their art, and to have backing put behind them and to be supported in that way, I mean — the landscape’s so different, it’s not an easy black and white discussion, and so for me, it was very like — I wanna be able to say my piece, I want to be able to put my work in front of people and stand proudly behind it, and in front of more eyes than I’ve been able to in the past. I also want to be able to pay my rent, you know, it’s been a hard year.” -Mikaela

• “We have to be willing to discuss how the human experience is so much more nuanced than just — this is good, this is bad, and you gotta be on either side of the aisle or you’re wrong. It’s: we’re all human, we all need to do better, and the ways we’re gonna dismantle the system are by changing the way we approach consumption, being more mindful to reuse the things in our lives, but also being patient with ourselves as we slowly make that transition.” -Mikaela

• Hansel website

• Follow Mikaela on Instagram >
• Follow Hansel on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way.

Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.

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In episode 234, Kestrel welcomes Lottie Bertello, the founder and creative director at LOTI, to the show. An upcycling design studio recently launched in 2021, LOTI reuses materials that would otherwise end up in landfills.

“We’re gonna be really vocal with our platform to show people that we don’t need to be following these trends. I think trends is what has pushed this overconsumption in massive amounts. And there’s the misconception that trends are the only fun clothes you can use — like trendy clothes equal fun and sustainable clothes equal boring, which is absolutely not the case at all.” -Lottie Bertello On this week’s show, Lottie shares more of her experience working within the conventional fashion industry, and how for her, that made her realize that building her own project was where she could make the most positive impact.

Lottie highlights some amazing stories from the beginnings of building the brand — one day, she was browsing the racks at a Goodwill, and she ended up buying 300 men’s button up shirts, without having a plan as to how to use them. Those shirts became the first building blocks of what LOTI has become today.

Also, Kestrel and Lottie also explore some of the nuances around “trends” and where they fit into the sustainability and fashion movement.

• “I think developing our aesthetic was the most challenging part of developing LOTI because as much as our brand stands for textile waste reduction and ethical manufacturing, we have nothing without a good product that people like — it’s unsustainable for us to sell a product based on the fact that it’s quote unquote sustainable. You know, if you don’t love it, then you’re not going to wear it, and if you’re not wearing it, you might be throwing it out, and that’s not the point.” -Lottie
• “Ultimately — trends are what make clothing be disposable, because once a trend is gone, people are no longer wearing that, and then that garment doesn’t have a space in your closet anymore. I think there is a distinct difference between relevant items and trendy items.” -Lottie
• LOTI’s website
• Follow Lottie on Instagram >
• Follow LOTI on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way.

Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.

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In episode 233, Kestrel welcomes Katherine Theobalds, the founder and creative director at Zou Xou, to the show. A slow fashion footwear brand, Zou Xou shoes are made in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

“I like using the word sensible to describe our shoes because it kind of challenges the common assumption of what sensible shoes mean. I don’t mean that they’re boring, I don’t mean that they’re not exciting, and I don’t mean that they can’t express your style. To me, the sensibility aspect of it speaks to the practicality of it and how often you’re using it, and the versatility of it in your wardrobe.”
-Katherine Theobalds

On this week’s show, Katherine shares more on how an array of circumstances led her to build out Zou Xou. Also, she explains some of the ways she and her team have had to get extra creative in their business throughout COVID-19.

Katherine also dives into more of what sensible shoes mean to her, and why she thinks this is an important way to build products — and in her case, shoes that you will build deep relationships with.

• Two Days Off, Kestrel and Katherine mention Gina and her brand — listen to the Conscious Chatter episode with Two Days Off here >
• “The last thing we want to do is promote mindless consumption — we don’t want someone to buy something because it’s inexpensive — we want them to buy it because they really love it and they’re going to wear it … you know, I am a reformed fast fashion shopper — I remember the times I would buy things just because they were on sale, not even because I liked it that much. And so that kind of affects our decision to not do too many markdowns as well — if we’re only producing what we’re sure we’ll sell, there’s no need to mark things down to get rid of them.” -Katherine
• Li Edelkoort, Katherine mentions her work as a trend forecaster and with “new materialism”
• Zou Xou Spring Collection Guide >
• Who Makes Zou Xou’s shoes >
• About Zou Xou >
• Follow Zou Xou on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way.

Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.

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In episode 232, Kestrel welcomes Kara Fabella, an ethical fashion advocate, digital creator and stylist, to the show. Known as @theFlippside on Instagram, her Living In Color(ism) series on IGTV features discussions where she passes the mic to guests to share their experiences with colorism.

On this week’s show, Kara shares more on her past explorations in blogging, and what led her to begin shifting the relationship she was building with her wardrobe. She also shares more on what influence means to her, how she vets the brands she works with, and some of the nuanced challenges that come with being a digital creator in the sustainable fashion space.

Additionally, Kara shares more on the intentions behind her Living In COLOR(ISM) series, and how she’s consciously building out her ethical styling services.

• Aditi Mayer, mentioned when it comes to the way she leverages her paid partnerships as an educational opportunity
• Alder Apparel, brand Kara mentions
• Living In COLOR(ISM) episode that Kara mentions with @mayetteraisa
• “We need to heal from within to tackle anti-Blackness, discrimination and white supremacy, and the colonization that happened within each of these communities — I hope that I continue to have these conversations so that there is a space for people to talk about this, and in turn, for them to have conversations with their family members and with their peers, because it just needs to be talked about basically.” -Kara on her Living in COLOR(ISM) series
• Conscious Creator feature, includes photos from Consciously’s Earth Day 2021 shoot that Kara styled
• Follow Kara on Instagram >
• Follow Living In COLOR(ISM) on Instagram >

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In episode 231, Kestrel welcomes Lauren Tanaka-Fortune and Rory Fortune, the cofounders of Goods & Services, to the show. A modern repair shop in Los Angeles, Goods & Services specializes in sneaker repair.

“I think we just have to start changing our mentality around consumption and buy things that you really love and can potentially pass down one day. I think that when you buy things that are made better, you can wear them longer — I mean, eventually they’ll be a cool vintage piece, right? We just need to get away from this need for ‘more, more more’ and get back to sort of the olden days of really buying something that you love and wearing it forever.” -Lauren Tanaka-Fortune, Co-Owner of Goods & Services On this week’s show, Rory and Lauren each share their unique experience, working within the conventional fashion industry, and what “aha moment” led them to want to reassess the way they were working in fashion.

Rory explains a bit more on what led him down the path of learning more about shoe repair, and how that led he and Lauren to open their own repair shop in 2019.

While Goods & Services offers repair for all shoe types, they specialize in sneaker repair. Rory and Lauren explain why they think we are not typically taught that our sneakers can be repaired, and how, through their custom resole process, they can set your sneakers up for years and years of future repair.

• Global Garbs, Lauren’s sustainable fashion magazine
• “Sneaker Drops Keep Coming. Are They Sustainable?” in Vogue Business
• Goods & Services YouTube
• Follow Goods & Services on Instagram >
• Follow Global Garbs on Instagram >

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In episode 230, Kestrel welcomes Kiana Kazemi, a current undergraduate student at UC Berkeley, studying the intersections of technology and environmental justice, to the show. The Editor in Chief of the campus environmental publication The Leaflet and the Digital and Community Operations Coordinator at Intersectional Environmentalist, Kiana is also the Co-Founder and CEO of Circularity, a soon-to-launch multi-medium environmental justice platform.

“Climate change is a huge problem that we’re facing, but it’s really the symptom of capitalism, of the patriarchy, of so many other systems that have bigger histories and have been in place for such a long time. And so, if as engineers, we’re only taught to tackle those surface-level symptoms, we’re not tackling the wider systems, which is what we need to be tackling. ” -Kiana Kazemi, Intersectional Engineer On this week’s show, Kiana shares more on her backstory, what led her to pursue engineering, and what being an “intersectional engineer” means to her. Also, she helps provide some historical context on the ways in which engineering has and continues to perpetuate systemic injustices.

For Kiana, community engineering is important for a more equitable future — she shares more on what this means to her, and how it can be more effectively integrated into practice for the engineering and tech industries.

• Of course technology perpetuates racism. It was designed that way. by Charlton McIlwain in the MIT Technology Review
• Khalid Kadir, professor Kiana mentions
• “Because engineering is often about innovation and about the future, we’re never told to study the past or even the current systems — it’s always about create, create, create more, innovate more and think about the future. But again, if we don’t take into account that context and that history, then we’re just going to perpetuate those same problems over and over again.” -Kiana
• Why intersectional environmental pedagogy belongs in all fields by Kiana Kazemi
• Engineering x Social Justice Conversation with Kiana Kazemi and Diandra Marizet
• Co-Founder of Circularity (launching soon!)
• Tech Community Leader at Intersectional Environmentalist
• Slow Factory Foundation, founded by Céline Semaan
• Follow Kiana on Instagram >

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In episode 229, Kestrel welcomes Dani Des Roches, the founder of Picnicwear, to the show. A slow fashion brand, Picnicwear is made by hand in NYC (almost) entirely from vintage and deadstock materials.

“A statement piece doesn’t have to be a trendy piece per se — those descriptors can exist separately from one another. So just like a sustainable item doesn’t have to mean that it’s banal or it’s expensive, a statement piece can be special today, and still can be special 2 years from now, 3 years from now, 10 years from now.” -Dani Des Roches, Founder of Picnicwear On this week’s show, Dani shares more on how her love and appreciation for secondhand fashion started at a very young age. Not only was she influenced by her family's lifestyle, she also had this desire to always look "different" through the way she dressed, which drew her to the one-of-a-kind nature of vintage.

Dani went to fashion school and ended up working in fast fashion for years. While she was grateful to have these opportunities in the industry, they weren't resonating with her and her lifestyle - she never was even buying fast fashion in her own life.

While she had left her fast fashion job before COVID-19 hit, when most of her freelance jobs dried up amidst the pandemic, it inspired her to dive in and push to make Picnicwear come to life.

• Selina Sanders, designer and friend of Dani, featured on Conscious Chatter episode 222 — listen to that episode here >
• “Right now, the way I’m working is not really sustainable, because I’m working all the time. But, it’s also my first year in business, so I’m learning — what’s working, what doesn’t work, where am I spending too much time, how can I scale that down and be able to focus more on these things that are more productive, and then be able to get some time back to myself. So yeah, that’s definitely the work of the work when it comes to how to scale this type of brand, for sure.” -Dani
• Follow Dani on Instagram >
• Follow Picnicwear on Instagram >

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In episode 228, Kestrel welcomes curator and writer Catherine McKinley to the show. The author of Indigo, a journey along the ancient indigo trade routes in West Africa, and The Book of Sarahs, a memoir about growing up Black and Jewish in the 1960s-80s, Catherine has taught creative nonfiction writing at Sarah Lawrence College and Columbia University. Her newest book, The African Lookbook, A Visual History of 100 Years of African Women, draws on her extensive collection of photos to tell a different visual narrative of African women.

“In most of the societies, cloth is just, it’s essential, it’s considered something that contains the human spirit and it’s the layer next to the skin — you know, it has all those meanings. And cloth is essential from what you’re wound in the moment of birth to what you’re wound in at the grave.” -Catherine McKinley, Writer + Curator On this week’s show, Catherine shares more on what led her to have an interest in writing, cloth, photographs and fashion. Through our conversation, she reminds us of the layers of meaning that can be embedded in cloth - from culture to identity to wealth to power and beyond.

Catherine also explains more on why she highlights the sewing machine and the camera as the two most important machinery for African women in her book — as she calls them, “steadfast instruments that offered a powerful means to author one’s own life.”

• ”I’m really driven by this idea of holding onto things from the past and things that are disappearing or are ephemeral in some way.” -Catherine
• Seydou Keïta, photographer
• Malick Sidibe, photographer
• Okwui Enwezor, Catherine studied with him
• The Walther Collection, Catherine worked here in the past
• “And then I started feeling competitive in a way — these enormously wealthy men who could just acquire and acquire and acquire — you know, every amazing photo document that was coming in, and I started to take it a little bit more seriously. I started doing it in earnest and my collection is primarily women’s photos and I really felt like it’s not theirs, you know. It’s not theirs — I don’t have the access that they have, but to the extent that I can collect, I’m going to collect and I’m gonna claim this and I’m not gonna let it just be our object — I’m gonna think about its use and value to other people, beyond just sitting on a gallery wall.” -Catherine
• “I was at a dinner with a group of men in the art world — I was the only female there, I was the only non white person there … it was a very male conversation about photography, and I think I blurted out this thing about the sewing machine and the camera, and everybody looked at me like I was crazy — you know, to say they were the most important machinery for African women." And then, I went home and I still felt like this thing is right, I’m right about this, and I don’t have evidence, but … it was kind of what finally organized the book for me — it was like ok how now am I going to prove this argument to these men in particular? Not that I was all that interested in whether they agreed or not, but it just seemed like this really outrageous claim, so how now am I going to make good on it?” -Catherine
• “Cloth certainly has been one of the absolutely most important commodities for women — if you had access to buy one or two pieces of cloth and put that on your head and walk the street and try to sell it, it was small capital to build up more and more and more.” -Catherine
• The McKinley Collection, Catherine’s archive representing African photographers from 1870 to the present
• The African Lookbook
• Follow Catherine on Instagram >

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In episode 227, Kestrel welcomes Yessenia Funes, the Climate Editor at Atmos, to the show. A new climate and culture magazine, Atmos is curated by an ecosystem of adventurers, creatives, and journalists, and dedicated to pioneering progress around the world.

“So much of what we do is working with frontline organizers, so that they can tell their own stories — inviting them to come write for us, creating space so that they’re not just quoted in an article, but they’re writing the article. And I think that there’s sometimes hesitance to do that in the media industry, out of this sort of obsession with objectivity — I think is honestly what sometimes drives some of that. And we do that in a way that, we’re not here to necessarily push an agenda, but we’re here to give people space to to tell their truth, tell their stories and to educate the public about the battles that many of these people are fighting.” -Yessenia Funes, Climate Editor at Atmos On this week’s show, Yessenia shares more on what led her to writing about race and the environment. She is now focused on telling human-centered stories, and welcoming frontline organizers to write their own stories on how the climate crisis is impacting them and their communities.

Kestrel asks Yessenia for her thoughts on where she thinks the media stands today, when it comes to covering stories around environmental racism and environmental justice.

• “It’s an exciting moment now to see so much understanding of what environmental racism is, of what environmental justice is, but it is alarming to see the slow response to do anything about it, especially at a scale that matters.” -Yessenia
• “Report: we have just 12 years to limit devastating global warming” via Vox, addressing the IPCC report from 2018 that Yessenia mentions
• “My favorite thing about working here at Atmos is just our dedication toward heart-centered and community-centered stories.” -Yessenia
• “You don’t need to have a graduate degree or a bachelor’s in environmental studies or climate science to be an expert on your community — you just need that lived experience, and I think there’s a growing recognition of how vital the lived experience is now.” -Yessenia
• Professor Bryan Higgins, mentioned by Yessenia — taught a class about the history of national parks in the U.S.
• “‘It’s About Sacrificing’: Indigenous Youth Runners Call on Biden to Shut Down DAPL” on Atmos
• “How Black Women Have Reimagined Nature On-screen” on Atmos
• “The Climate Movement Has Always Been Black” on Atmos
• “A Bright, Green Future” on Atmos
• The Frontline, newsletter edited by Yessenia — “a daily reminder that the warming of the world is unjust”
• Follow Yessenia on Instagram >
• Follow Atmos on Instagram >

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In episode 226, Kestrel welcomes Matty Hickey, the founder of Be Kind Vibes, to the show. A social impact brand, Be Kind Vibes creates ethically-made goods that inspire love & compassion for each other and our natural world.

“Kindness is a way forward for us out of these times — it’s a chance for us to be able to reconnect with ourselves, and then, that way, we can kind of express that out into the world and to others. It’s one of the values, one of the pillars of the brand, and it’s how I guide the direction of the brand in everyday decisions — it’s a powerful thing, and I think if we can really tap into it and use it, it is a way forward and I think it’s a way that can unite all of us, really.” -Matt Hickey, Founder of Be Kind Vibes On this week’s show, we take a little journey down memory lane, as Matt was the person who suggested Kestrel start a podcast over 5 years ago now. The two discuss those early ideas, and how Matt really helped spark the early idea for Kestrel to build out this audio community.

The two explore several facets of "kindness”, as that is the driving force behind Matt’s work. Also, Matt shares a bit more on his future vision for the brand, and how his priorities have evolved over the years, bringing him further back to a place where natural materials, natural dyes and hyper localized production are king.

• Promoting The Power Of Kindness, story from CBS Sunday Morning that Kestrel mentions, that discusses a new documentary called “The Antidote”
• “I think kindness and being kind — it’s an action word and phrase — it’s doing. It’s a way to express and show others compassion and love, and that also extends to our natural world and the environment. I see it as a common thread that connects all of humanity — it’s something that is inside of all of us and it’s something that we can all turn to and begin to express to others.” -Matt
• BKV “Of The Earth” Bandana Capsule, created in collaboration with Kristin of All Species and Paul Cannon of Iron Sage Wood
• Follow Matt on Instagram >
• Follow Be Kind Vibes on Instagram >

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In episode 225, Kestrel welcomes Chantel Keiko Ricks, the Distribution Manager & Sustainability Lead at Urban Native Era, to the show. Based in Los Angeles, Urban Native Era specializes in clothing design and content to increase the visibility of Indigenous Peoples.

“We pride ourselves in providing tools, resources, highlighting thought leaders, sharing about changemakers and being a source for Indigenous perspective on society’s current events — and that is us providing our community with what’s needed to reclaim one’s culture, reclaim identity and reclaim Indigenous story through accurate representation.” -Chantel Keiko Ricks, Sustainability Lead at Urban Native Era On this week’s show, Chantel shares more on how until COVID-19 arrived, she had been studying film in grad school at San Diego State. But, the pandemic paired with the resurgence of the Black Lives Matter movement led her to explore how she could help in some way in a social activism setting — this led her to reconnecting with Joey Montoya, founder of Urban Native Era, a friend of hers from college.

Kestrel and Chantel talk a bit about thrifting / vintage, and how that’s such a massive part of the way they both shop, because they love discovering unique pieces that nobody else has.

Additionally, Chantel shares more on some of the small steps she is helping Urban Native Era take to reduce their environmental impact, from removing all plastics from their packaging to integrating organic cotton and other lower impact fabrics into their future collections.

• Project 333, minimalist fashion challenge that Chantel did to help explore her relationship with her clothes — listen to our Conscious Chatter episode with founder of Project 333 here
• “The company actually came through first and foremost journaling these events [Indigenous-led movements], and the clothing part of the company was not in the original inception — which I find probably the most powerful part about the brand is that it’s about storytelling and awareness more than anything else.” -Chantel speaking about Joey, the founder’s story
• Urban Native Era sustainability page >
• Follow Chantel on Instagram >
• Follow Urban Native Era on Instagram >

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In episode 224, Kestrel welcomes Gina Stovall, the founder and designer behind Two Days Off, to the show. An independently, woman-owned and operated lifestyle brand, Two Days Off makes garments designed for longevity that are ethically cut and sewn in small batches in Los Angeles, California.

“In sciences, and especially the environmental sciences, we think of everything as a system. Everything is interconnected and there are ramifications for every decision made, every act that’s taken, every resource used, and even social systems play into that — which is part of the reason why I loved the environmental sciences so much, because you see how this theory or this phenomena impacts people on a day-to-day, and then you can figure out — is this a balanced system or is this co-beneficial and things like that. And so, in my business, I look at it exactly the same way.” -Gina Stovall, Founder of Two Days Off On this week’s show, Gina shares more on what led her to switch up her career from working as a scientist / geologist to becoming a fashion entrepreneur. She also takes us through some of the ways she applies her environmental science lens to the inner workings of her fashion brand — Two Days Off.

Gina also outlines more on how ease fits into Two Days Off’s approach to fashion, in more ways than one.

• “For me personally, which then obviously is imparted onto the brand — anything in my life needs to bring me a sense of ease and slow me down a little bit and not add extra stress or pressures.” -Gina
• “I don’t think it’s up to individuals to make the big, big changes — I think this is probably my policy wonk background — really we need to be demanding from our politicians and from businesses and those who have more power who can make broader, more wide sweeping changes. And one of the things that I committed to last year is that I am going to call or write my representatives every week, following up on things, voicing my opinion.” -Gina
• Follow Gina on Instagram >
• Follow Two Days Off on Instagram >

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In episode 223, Kestrel welcomes Maggie Hewitt, the founder and designer behind Maggie Marilyn, to the show. Made in New Zealand, Maggie Marilyn is working toward a more transparent, circular, regenerative and inclusive fashion industry.

“Really the biggest achievement of all to-date was making this sort of bold decision to pivot our business model to operate entirely direct-to-consumer, and I think really now — our values and our business model actually align.” -Maggie Hewitt, Founder + Designer of Maggie Marilyn On this week’s show, Maggie shares more on what led her to build a fashion brand that places sustainability at its core. She also explains more of how over the last five years, they realized as a brand, that in order to move forward with their focus of transparency, circularity, regeneration and inclusivity, they had to transform their business model to align with those values — which, for Maggie Marilyn, meant shifting away from wholesale and functioning entirely as a direct-to-consumer brand.

Maggie and Kestrel also dive into ideas around transparency, responsibility and accountability as a sustainable brand, and how Maggie Marilyn is pushing to truly hold themselves accountable when it comes to their statements.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “Stylists Are Giving Sustainable Fashion New — and Aspirational — Appeal” in WWD
• “I think really the biggest achievement of all to-date was making this sort of bold decision to pivot our business model to operate entirely direct-to-consumer, and I think really now — our values and our business model actually align.”
• Coercive labour practices in Xinjiang, how Maggie Marilyn responded in their communication + actions
• All revolutions have always started at a grassroots level, and so I think that consumers really need to know that they hold so much power in transitioning our industry into one that is sustainable for the future. You know, it’s a tagline that we use a lot that we really believe everyone has the power to change the world, so yeah — ask more questions.” -Maggie
• Maggie Marilyn’s Diversity and Inclusion Policy
• Maggie Marilyn’s Sustainability Strategy
• Follow Maggie Marilyn on Instagram >

Thanks to this week's sponsor TEN/TEN — an exclusive collection of ten one-of-a-kind engagement rings, designed by ten of the most distinctive designers working today. Using only diamonds responsibly sourced from Botswana, ten design masters have each produced a uniquely beautiful commitment ring. Learn more at BlueNile.com >

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In episode 222, Kestrel welcomes Selina Sanders, a slow fashion artisan who makes clothing that is always one-of-a-kind and upcycled, to the show. After over a decade of working as a designer in fashion, Selina started her eponymous label to help reduce the industry’s carbon footprint and build an environmentally responsible brand.

“Fashion is in the business of creating culture — we are culture creators — that is an immense power that we have is the influence of creating communities in culture. And, the fact that we have an opportunity to shape what the next culture becomes is a tremendous privilege, yet unfortunately I constantly see that we are taking that privilege for granted — we are not using it to the best of its ability. And that is why now that I’m slowly building this brand, I want to make an impact toward the change this industry deserves.” -Selina Sanders, Founder of Selina Sanders On this week’s show, Selina explains how losing her job (with the arrival of COVID-19), actually provided her with a unique opportunity to build her own brand. She also breaks down some of the realities of what conventional designers are responsible for today — especially the way that selling has become a key part of their job role.

Kestrel and Selina discuss the idea of scale, and what that looks like for Selina with her young, and rapidly growing brand. Additionally, Selina shares a bit of her Philippine heritage and how that influences her design aesthetic.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “Designers now are not just people who design and sit and sketch in a room — designers are very much involved in the actual sales negotiation and transaction that happens, and from then on, once you sell that garment, you basically are in charge of making sure that nothing gets screwed up along the way. Whether it’s trying to fly out to China or the Philippines or even Mexico or Guatemala, and you basically push those factory owners to meet a bottom line price so that you can make your margin.” -Selina
• Selina’s Instagram post that highlights a bit more of her heritage >
• réunion, a story from founder Sarah helped inspire Selina to share more about her heritage
• Recent post by Aja Barber focused on “scale” that Kestrel mentions
• Follow Selina on Instagram >

Thanks to this week's sponsor TEN/TEN — an exclusive collection of ten one-of-a-kind engagement rings, designed by ten of the most distinctive designers working today. Using only diamonds responsibly sourced from Botswana, ten design masters have each produced a uniquely beautiful commitment ring.
Learn more at BlueNile.com >

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In episode 221, Kestrel welcomes Roopa Pemmaraju, the founder of her namesake label, to the show. A slow luxury fashion brand, with an emphasis on sustainability and social responsibility, Roopa Pemmaraju’s collections celebrate Indian crafting techniques that have been handed down for hundreds of years.

“We don’t buy fabrics in bulk or we don’t create the products in bulk. If we have an order today, that’s when my atelier back in India would create that product, so that’s why we ask our customers or our retailers to give us that much of a time, so that we can create this product with integrity and the right way and the right fabrication that we require to create that sustainable brand.” -Roopa Pemmaraju, Founder of Roopa Pemmaraju On this week’s show, Roopa shares more on her past story and what led her to build her own brand. She and Kestrel also dive into more of what slow fashion means to Roopa’s brand, and how she defines it in her work.

Additionally, Kestrel asks Roopa if and how she sees the Farmers Protest in India intersecting with the work she is doing, with much of her sourcing (including cotton) and manufacturing taking place throughout the country.

• Roopa never uses plastic in the beading or embroidery work on her products, so often they have to specially make glass beads or other notions that are plastic-free
• Manpreet Kaur Kalra, educator who has shared detailed information on India’s new agricultural bills and India’s Farmers Protest
• Follow Roopa Pemmaraju on Instagram >

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In episode 220, Kestrel welcomes Chanelle Harris, the founder of NELLO, to the show. A curated thrift brand, NELLO is non-binary to any form of fashion and promotes positive self-love with sustainable clothing through artistic expression.

“These aren’t just clothes — it’s what you make it, and that’s part of your style. And although you’re not going to get the latest trends that are happening (these items aren’t a part of that category), you can still make it your own. It’s how you define yourself in any way — whether it’s the clothes you wear, what you say, what you want to do in life — it’s how you define it and how you share that with other people.” -Chanelle Harris, Founder of NELLO On this week’s show, Chanelle shares more on what led her to have such a love for vintage and how secondhand shopping with her grandma got her inspired by past generations’ style. She also shares more about how she went from completing a master’s in clinical psychology in London to building her own vintage shop.

Kestrel and Chanelle also explore more on the idea of style (self) over fashion (conformity), and how this truly drives the work that she is doing with NELLO, as well as their mutual love for studying street style in London.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Value Village, a secondhand store that Chanelle and her grandmother thrifted at a lot when she was younger
• “I think the bigger problem is just consumption itself, even production within the fashion industry — like how many items do we really need of this one product?” -Chanelle
• Follow NELLO on Instagram >
• Follow Chanelle on Instagram >

Thanks to this week's sponsor TEN/TEN — an exclusive collection of ten one-of-a-kind engagement rings, designed by ten of the most distinctive designers working today. Using only diamonds responsibly sourced from Botswana, ten design masters have each produced a uniquely beautiful commitment ring.
Learn more at BlueNile.com >

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In episode 219, Kestrel welcomes Dr. Kimberly McGlonn, the CEO and creative director of Grant Blvd, to the show. By sourcing reclaimed fabrics, manufacturing exclusively in Philadelphia, and supporting incarcerated & returning citizens, Grant Blvd believes it’s time to recalibrate our systems and our style.

“Love takes commitment — right? Those of us who have loved something fully, richly, wholly — it is an act of daily commitment. And so, actually the word love is not a light word at all. Hate is easy, anger is easy, frustration is easy, quit is easy, love is hard. And that’s what we need more of in design, and fashion design specifically — we need more commitment to decisions made from a place of the longterm, rooted in a vision of love.” -Dr. Kimberly McGlonn, Founder + CEO of Grant Blvd On this week’s show, Kimberly shares more on her journey, and how she went from being a teacher to then, building a fashion brand, based on the primary intention of finding a way to create jobs.

Throughout this conversation, some of the ideas that Kestrel and Kimberly touch on are — how the term “expert” can be problematic, the importance of allowing space for us to be playful within the sustainability movement, the need to protect our optimism and the layers of nuance connected to experiencing and embracing “pleasure”.

Also, Kimberly shares more on Grant Blvd’s business model, how they’ve gotten creative during the many pandemics we’re currently facing, and what led them to actually open a new storefront this past year, in 2020.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “For me, disruption is about recognizing systems because you study them, and then committing in the perennial marathon effort to see where there’s room and a need for radical reimagining.” -Dr. Kimberly McGlonn
• “People are building beautiful things now and ugly things are being destroyed — and this goes to the idea of the phoenix — either we’re going to rise up into something that’s more beautiful or we’re going to surrender and submit to things that are broken, and I just ain’t with that, it ain’t me.” -Dr. Kimberly McGlonn
• “I’ll tell you what I tell my daughter: to hell with climate catastrophe denial, to hell with performative solidarity. To hell with homophobia, transphobia, and xenophobia, with racism and sexism, as they are all siblings from the same toxic father.”
  -excerpt from Kimberly’s Letter From The Creative Director in Grant Blvd’s recent lookbook
• Pleasure Activism by Adrianne Maree Brown
• Follow Grant Blvd on Instagram >
• Follow Dr. Kimberly McGlonn on Instagram >
• Grant Blvd is offering Conscious Chatter listeners 15% OFF through January 26th, 2021.
  Use code CONSCIOUSCHATTER at checkout - you can explore more at GrantBlvd.com >

Thanks to this week's sponsor TEN/TEN — an exclusive collection of ten one-of-a-kind engagement rings, designed by ten of the most distinctive designers working today. Using only diamonds responsibly sourced from Botswana, ten design masters have each produced a uniquely beautiful commitment ring.
Learn more at BlueNile.com >

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In episode 218, Kestrel welcomes the multifaceted 20-year-old phenom, Maya Penn, to the show. The award-winning founder and CEO of eco-fashion brand Maya’s Ideas, Maya is a 3 time TED Speaker, artist, global activist, animator, filmmaker, social entrepreneur, coder and Simon & Schuster author.

“Especially now, with things really coming to a tipping point of sorts, with so many different environmental and social issues — I think people still need to continue to have hope, because the main point of destructive or oppressive systems is for people to become weary and to become hopeless.” -Maya Penn, Founder + CEO of Maya’s Ideas On this week’s show, Maya shares more on how she got started in the sustainability and fashion world from a very young age — she was only 8 when she launched her eco-friendly fashion brand Maya’s Ideas.

Maya and Kestrel also explore the importance of hope within activism, what the mainstream is missing when it comes to listening to youth activists, and how sustainability doesn’t have to be this restricted approach to doing life — it can truly be fun and about freely celebrating curiosity and creativity.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “It’s crucial no matter what to focus on these issues because especially with the fact that nobody wins on a dead planet — it’s in everyone’s best interest to try to make real, tangible change.” -Maya
• “There’s a kind of play and curiosity and fun that’s involved with living sustainably that a lot of people don’t realize — people feel like it’s kind of strict and regimented and ‘if you do this like this, then you’re a terrible person’.” -Maya
• Follow Maya on Instagram >

Thanks to this week's sponsor TEN/TEN — an exclusive collection of ten one-of-a-kind engagement rings, designed by ten of the most distinctive designers working today. Using only diamonds responsibly sourced from Botswana, ten design masters have each produced a uniquely beautiful commitment ring.
Learn more at BlueNile.com >

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In episode 217, Kestrel welcomes Katie Pruett, the founder and editor-in-chief of Ethical Style Journal, back to the show to reconnect. A multimedia platform exploring fashion with a modern and mindful perspective, Ethical Style Journal is expanding the conversation surrounding ethics and sustainability in fashion.

“That’s the issue with sustainable fashion a lot of the times is that people want to do good, but they want to do good on the surface — they don’t really want to do good at the core, and that has become something that is too familiar in this space and it needs to be challenged at every corner.” -Katie Pruett, Founder + Editor-In-Chief of Ethical Style Journal On this week’s show, Katie shares an update on what she has been working on since we last chatted, and how her approach to sustainability and fashion has evolved since then.

We also discuss a couple of the articles currently available on ESJ, and get into some of the nuances connected to cultural sustainability — the origin of natural dyes, the co-opting of ideas from BIPOC communities, the entitlement present in the sustainable fashion movement, the importance of getting beyond diversity and inclusion, beyond accountability and so much more.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “How Do We Preserve Culture Without Commodifying It?” by Seren Sensei for ESJ
• “The issue for me when it comes to specifically Black American culture is the constant erasure of us and our contributions to pretty much everything.” -Katie
• “Cultural Sustainability and Natural Dyes in Fashion” by Nathalie Peña for ESJ
• “Angela Davis said in a recent conversation she had with Yara Shahidi that there’s a difference between having information and having knowledge … you can Google something and have information about avocado pits but you’re not suddenly the expert or the most knowledgeable on the subject — and I think people need to start to reflect on that and the differences there and really pay homage and give credit to and space to the actual experts and the actual folks who hold the knowledge and the understanding of these practices.” -Katie
• Katie’s personal thoughts / response to the #MUTED campaign on Instagram
• Katie’s Letter From The Editor on ESJ
• Follow Ethical Style Journal on Instagram >

Thanks to this week's sponsor TEN/TEN — an exclusive collection of ten one-of-a-kind engagement rings, designed by ten of the most distinctive designers working today. Using only diamonds responsibly sourced from Botswana, ten design masters have each produced a uniquely beautiful commitment ring - launching exclusively on January 18th, 2021.
Learn more at BlueNile.com >

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In episode 216, Kestrel welcomes Robbie Stuart, the founder of KIDS WORLDWIDE, to the show. A collaborative brand, KIDS WORLDWIDE is focused on supporting, empowering and nurturing youth through socially and environmentally-conscious fashion.

Robbie is also joined by Swami Durga Das, the founder of nonprofit River Fund, who KIDS WORLDWIDE partners with for several layers of their work, as well as Zara, Nishaul, Chrissy and Washal — young artists whose work is featured on KIDS’ designs.

“It really becomes about peoples’ responsibility inside themselves to give back to each other — if that’s in volunteering or in serving or however we do it — it’s really in giving back to each other. And I think then, in the long run, it makes the planet better and each of us better.” -Swami Durga Das, Founder of River Fund On this week’s show, Robbie shares more on what led her to want to build KIDS WORLDWIDE and how she partners with Swami and River Fund, to build something that’s far more than just a fashion brand.

Four kids — Zara, Nishaul, Chrissy and Washal — whose artwork is featured on KIDS’ garments share more with us about what inspired some of their artwork, what they enjoy about the art programs at River Fund, and how they think we can all make an impact to build a better future.

“For me, I would usually draw and show it to my friends, but now — the whole entire world can see how creative kids are and how we care about the earth and we want a change for our future.” -Zara

“I made the artwork based on climate change, so I was thinking how if we didn’t have the earth, how would we survive? I was saying — we love the earth, why would we destroy it? Don’t hurt it.” -Nishaul

“If someone needs help, we should help them out because we don’t want to be mean and we should be helpful for each other. People are being mean to the earth — they’re throwing trash out and they’re not saving food for other people and they’re being mean.” -Chrissy

“I love using cameras — that’s one of my favorite things to do … so what we could do is not throw garbage out on the streets and not waste water.” -Washal

“The workshops really are at the foundation of this brand — I want to create something that is a safe place and a nonjudgemental and creative place for kids to feel supported, and also to have access to opportunities that they wouldn’t normally have access to.” -Robbie

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• KIDS WORLDWIDE
• KIDS WORLDWIDE Workshops
• River Fund “taking poverty personally”
• Follow Kids Worldwide on Instagram >

Enter Dyper's giveaway here!

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In episode 215, Kestrel welcomes Kameese Davis, the founder and CEO of Nylah’s Naturals, to the show. A young plant-based hair care brand, Nylah’s Naturals has introduced a science-based approach to textured hair products, and is pushing boundaries for clean and sustainable products.

“It’s about combining that plant-based knowledge with the knowledge that our foremothers had and our grandmothers had in terms of how they would use plants and herbs for natural healing and for their beauty treatments as well — so, our passion really is combining those two elements to ensure that we are developing the best possible products for our consumers.” -Kameese Davis, Founder + CEO of Nylah’s Naturals On this week’s show, Kameese shares more on her journey and how a journey with her daughter ended up leading her to build Nylah’s Naturals.

Also, Kestrel and Kameese discuss some of the aspects of the Silent Spring Institute study “Hair products for Black women contain mix of hazardous ingredients” — and how the findings could help researchers understand why Black women have higher exposures to hazardous chemicals than other groups and how these elevated exposures contribute to health disparities in the U.S. population.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Silent Spring Institute Study

• EWG’s Skin Deep

• Nylah’s Naturals’ Ingredients

• Feed My Creative, company that Nylah’s Naturals is working with to showcase creative ways to reuse their product bottles
• Some other resources that Kameese recommends:
  Cosmilly Skincare Community
  CosDNA
  Think Dirty App, listen to our show with their founder here >
• Follow Nylah’s Naturals on Instagram >

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In episode 214, Kestrel welcomes Isaias Hernandez, the creator of Queer Brown Vegan, to the show. As a Queer, Brown, and Vegan environmentalist, Isaias makes accessible environmental education content, showcased on his platform Queer Brown Vegan, and seeks to provide a safe space for other like-minded environmentalists to engage in the discourse of the current climate crisis.

“I really believed in creating a space as Queer Brown Vegan to discuss everything that I learned and just put it out there so people can have information to themselves and not have to feel ashamed for asking questions … I really push for the narrative of 'you are your own environmentalist' that includes Indigenous experiences, ancestral knowledge if you are Indigenous, cultural-based experiences for BIPOC individuals or just lived experiences that you've had that you don't resemble to environmentalism.” -Isaias Hernandez, Founder of Queer Brown Vegan On this week’s show, Isaias shares more of his story, and how when he was studying environmental science at UC Berkeley, he was finally able to reconnect a lot of the experiences he had growing up with the terminology he was learning. This led him to realize the importance of education and access to education — which is partly what inspired him to create Queer Brown Vegan.

Also, Isaias and Kestrel explore more depth on some of the topics that have been featured on Queer Brown Vegan in the past including “The Gentrification of Thrifting”, “Drop Shipping”, “Sustainable Activism” and more.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “I think that any BIPOC environmentalist doing this type of work realizes how heavily the environmental movement has misrepresented a lot of these voices.” -Isaias
• Eco-Learners, free downloadable e-book
• What Is The Gentrification Of Thrifting? - post on Instagram
• What is Drop Shipping? - post on Instagram
• “I think that creating boundaries is a form of kindness to me, and not necessarily a form of being rude.” -Isaias
• “I think change starts locally with our own loved ones.” -Isaias
• Follow Queer Brown Vegan on Instagram >

Thanks to this week's sponsor ECO-STYLIST — a marketplace for sustainable men’s clothes, Eco-Stylist helps you dress like you give a damn and allows you to look sharp without compromising your values. Check out more at https://www.eco-stylist.com/conscious/

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In episode 213, Kestrel welcomes Reza Cristián, the founder and editor-in-chief of SUSTAIN The Mag, to the show. An online media platform, SUSTAIN The Mag is a space where eco-conscious warriors cultivate a healthy, planet-friendly lifestyle.

“There was mostly you know, white people that were at the top, executives and editors-in-chiefs for example, and then, people on the covers — they weren’t really everyday people, so I was really turned off by that. And that’s really what led me to want to shift and change the perspective around media, and really tie it into sustainability because in a whole, it’s not just about caring for the planet — it’s caring about everyone and just interconnecting it all — so, that was my main priority to start Sustain The Mag.” -Reza Cristián, Founder + Editor-In-Chief of SUSTAIN Mag On this week’s show, Reza shares more on her background and how resourcefulness has always been integrated into her lifestyle, growing up in a Mexican family. She also shares more on what led her to actually build Sustain The Mag, and some of the ideas she has for the future of the platform.

Kestrel asks Reza to ideate on what the future of media looks like from her perspective, and they also discuss if and how the sustainability narrative is shifting away from a consumeristic-driven approach toward more of a focus on resourcefulness.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Dominique Drakeford + Céline Semaan, two people in the sustainability industry that Reza looked up to while she was in college
• SUSTAIN The Mag Fall 2020 Cover Shoot, featuring the cofounders of Intersectional Environmentalist
• “Another thing that I love to always mention is to just not feel so lost in the consumerism part of sustainability, because that goes back to colonialism, that goes back to the mindset of capitalism where people think they have to purchase in order to be a part of something, and I always love to mention that we were brought to think that we were the problem because corporations didn’t want to take accountability for their mistakes, but in actuality, we are the solution.” -Reza
• Follow SUSTAIN Mag on Instagram >
• Follow Reza on Instagram >

Thanks to this week's sponsor ECO-STYLIST — a marketplace for sustainable men’s clothes, Eco-Stylist helps you dress like you give a damn and allows you to look sharp without compromising your values. Check out more at https://www.eco-stylist.com/conscious/

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In episode 212, Kestrel welcomes Comet Chukura, the founder of GLOW, to the show. A knitwear brand pioneering adaptable accessories that reflect light, GLOW is committed to using sustainable materials and ethical production, with an intention to create social as well as environmental impact.

“The point is to always work with women on the peripheries — slow fashion, since it’s all hand-knitted and crocheted, it does take a while to make — but the point is to utilize skills, which they would otherwise fall by the wayside, and kind of give Indigenous handicraft the respect it deserves in our system of fashion.” -Comet Chukura, Founder of GLOW On this week’s show, Comet shares more what about led her to build GLOW, what her supply chain looks like, and how working with marginalized women is at the core of the brand. Additionally, she explains how the “tech” works for GLOW’s sustainable, high visibility yarn.

Additionally, we touch on the layers of issues connected to the white gaze and white savior complex within the sustainable fashion industry — Comet recently wrote an article for Refinery29 called “Supporting Black-Owned Brands Shouldn’t Be A Goodwill Gesture” in which she explores this more deeply.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Christopher Raeburn, brand that Comet is collaborating with
• Birdsong, brand that Comet is collaborating with
• “Supporting Black-Owned Brands Shouldn’t Be A Goodwill Gesture” article by Comet on Refinery29
• Follow Glow on Instagram >
• Follow Comet on Instagram >

Thanks to this week's sponsor ECO-STYLIST — a marketplace for sustainable men’s clothes, Eco-Stylist helps you dress like you give a damn and allows you to look sharp without compromising your values. Check out more at https://www.eco-stylist.com/conscious/

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In episode 211, Kestrel welcomes Diandra Marizet, who spearheads Business Development + Operations at Intersectional Environmentalist. A conscious curator, brand strategist + writer, Diandra is dedicated to elevating intersectional sustainability through the lens of fashion, social impact + culture.

“We need everybody pursuing intersectionality, environmentalism, sustainability — like, whatever you’re latching onto in terms of progress, latch onto it, but do it in a healthy way that’s manageable in the longterm.” -Diandra Marizet, Business Development + Operations at Intersectional Environmentalist On this week’s show, Diandra shares more on her journey into the environmental movement, and how she went from growing up as a tomboy to working in apparel buying at Kate Spade, and eventually getting into social impact funding.

She also shares more of her thoughts on what the fashion industry needs to be focusing on right now to avoid putting another bandaid on an issue — and to instead, look at the root of the issues and address the systemic problems that are influencing the industry.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Leah Thomas’ post on Instagram, that ended up leading to the launch of Intersectional Environmentalist
• Kimberlé Crenshaw’s podcast Intersectionality Matters
• On Purpose, a social enterprise initiative by Kate Spade
• Intersectional Environmentalist
• “We are not bound to our current perspectives but to the evolution of them. Don’t sweat.” -Didi
• Follow Didi on Instagram >

Thanks to this week's sponsor ECO-STYLIST — a marketplace for sustainable men’s clothes, Eco-Stylist helps you dress like you give a damn and allows you to look sharp without compromising your values. Check out more at https://www.eco-stylist.com/conscious/

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The Root Episode 6: The New Standard is broken down into 3 parts — 1) coproducers Dominique and Kestrel interview each other to get a brief feeling of how this project has impacted them individually, 2) we share interviews with 4 of our sponsors from this project, and 3) we share more on what “The New Standard” means to us, the pillars it is built upon, and what questions we all need to be asking moving forward.

THE ROOT SPONSORS

SAMATA, CEO of Red Carpet Green Dress

“It’s mandatory listening to the point where it should be curriculum. And I always advocate for teaching people about how clothes are made - that they come from trees and farms and rivers and lakes and hands. But I think the other part is that we need to educate people about the systems that exist within the industry - not just the products and how they’re made.”

REBECCA BURGESS, Founder of Fibershed

“Our culture is so superficial right now around the conversations around race. And I think what The Root did is - it literally rooted in the variances between those of us who have been in migration patterns that just keep going, those of us who have been more rooted in place, experiences of socio-economic variation … there’s just so much that’s involved that’s so intersectional - I like that you gave space for those intersections!”

KELSEY SABO, Marketing Manager, Sustainability at MATE

“Our biggest key takeaways … having a better idea of how that white washed narrative has not been getting to the reality that sustainability at its core has been advocated for by the BIPOC community since far before any white people have been talking about it.”

PATRICK WOODYARD, CEO of Nisolo

“I’ve been front and center working in sustainable fashion now for almost 10 years and I think the fact that I’ve learned more from one podcast about inequity of BIPOC in the fashion industry than I have from years of going to conferences and reading sustainability articles from the top editors in the United States covering sustainability - that reality reveals not only my own blindspots but certainly the disgraceful blindspots of the industry as a whole right now.” THE NEW STANDARD After listening back to The Root project over and over, we have uncovered a framework — something we’re calling The New Standard. The New Standard is a rubric / a tool for holding ourselves accountable, exploring opportunities for equitable partnerships, and taking ownership of our own responsibilities in order to propel actions forward. The New Standard is the baseline for any conversation or activation in sustainability.

The below 3 pillars represent this new standard approach —

• Education → accountability
• Equitable partnerships → opportunity
• Action → responsibility

After listening to this entire project, we welcome you to join us in asking difficult questions that fall within or across The New Standard pillars. Begin asking the hard questions in your personal life, in your work, in your community, in your corporation, because after this project — The Root — one of the most important things we can all do is go into a self assessment stage, so we can understand what we need to work on, and we can get ACTIVE!

Thanks to this week's sponsor - Red Carpet Green Dress™ (RCGD), a women-led global change-making organization working from ‘moment’ to movement, bringing sustainability to the forefront of conversation and action within the fashion and apparel industry.

Learn more at RCGDglobal.com.

If you’re interested in RCGD’s monthly virtual workshop series, you can get tickets here >

And RCGD currently has two surveys live if you’d like to share your feedback:

• 'Language and Sustainability Survey'
• ‘Cultural Sustainability Survey’

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The Root Episode 5: Where Do We Go From Here? is a unique compilation of all 17 guests from the previous 4 episodes sharing a proclamation statement of how we intentionally move the fashion industry forward.

PART 1, Historical Analysis & Paradigm Shift

MIKO UNDERWOOD

“The American fashion community was born from the inception of indigo farms in America. The enslaved labor of Black Americans grew the cotton industry and built America’s fashion economy … we are required to be culturally accountable and culturally responsible.”

ADITI MAYER

“The future of fashion is one that understands the history and oppression that it’s built upon … What we need is an interrogation of power exists, why it exists and how we can disassemble and redistribute it for true equity.”

NIKKI SANCHEZ

“My vision for the future of fashion is a complete decolonization of the industry. From design to material sourcing to brand and marketing structure. This would mean a 180 turn from appropriation, exploitation, extraction and fast fashion.”

PART 2, Systemic Awareness & Re-imagination

IBADA WADUD

“As we seek to restore equity, I feel we must look particularly to communities who have been historically oppressed. Unlearning biased knowledge within the sustainability sector which I refer to as the process of decolonizing our minds, is imperative in order to reimagine systems that are regenerative versus extractive.”

EMI ITO

“When power shifts from white people to people of the global majority, then we will be moving toward healing. When rights, lived experiences, creativity and joy of Black Indigenous and other people of color are honored, not appropriated and celebrated not surpassed - then we will be moving toward freedom in fashion.”

AJA BARBER

“Power shift, we need a shift in power in all systems and a lot of systems need to be rebuilt from the ground up.”

KIMBERLY JENKINS

“Black people are not a monolith — we are not charity either. What we demand and what we deserve is equal opportunities and resources to not be taken for granted and to not be exploited.”

RACHEL RICKETTS

“We need to address all forms of oppression and the ways in which they intersect - the ways in which fashion is one of the most egregious manifestations of oppression in terms of classism, fat phobia, homophobia, transphobia, colorism, ageism, ableism - all of the forms of oppression need to end.” PART 3, Labor Extraction & Accountability

AYESHA BARENBLAT

“The only future of fashion which is truly just and resilient must center fashion’s most resilient garment makers and labor organizers. We need a worker centric view for the future of fashion which centers Black and Brown women.” LISA BETTY

“The fashion industry needs to wake up to this extraction, to this brutality and to the environmental consequences of the industry within itself.” ERICKA HART

“If your favorite brand is using prison labor - they have to go. We are out to abolish prisons so we don’t need modern day slaves creating Nike’s or whatever kind of garment that you like because you want it cheaper.” WHITNEY MCGUIRE

“We’re birthing a new industry collectively. But what needs to happen so that this contraction is useful in opening up new pathways and not just unnecessarily painful - is accountability.” BLAIR IMANI

“If you’re not willing to put your garments on your workers and have them model for you and compensate them that way — you shouldn’t be in this work. This work requires work, don’t lose sight of that.” PART 4, People, Power & Reclamation

IFY IKE

“If there’s one thing that I want us to do is to really fall in love with everything that is around us, recognize our connection to those items and also make our lives matter to us more than those that are benefitting from our lives.” DJ

“We’ve long been hamsters on the wheel of fashion’s exploitative trends and racist systems. It’s time for us to boldly jump from this proverbial wheel created by the old guards and explore a wholly new approach to fashion design and acquisition.” TERUMI MURAO
“The future of fashion will be decentralized and democratized to reflect what all people want and need.” AKILAH STEWART

“Reimagining the way that things always have been done and how things can be done in the future. Using creativity as a solution building tool.” Thanks to this week's sponsor - NISOLO, a handmade shoe brand that’s passionate about driving systemic social and environmental change across the fashion industry. They are a B Corporation and Climate Neutral Certified brand committed to living wages and reversing climate change.

Nisolo hooked our show up with a discount code — use THEROOT for 20% off and for first purchases only.

Learn more at Nisolo.com/theroot.

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The Root Episode 4: The Future Of Fashion is broken down in 4 lightening talk segments, hosted by Dominique Drakeford. Part 1 discuses Marketing with Aditi Mayer & Terumi Murao. Part 2 hones in on Education with Kimberly Jenkins and Whitney McGuire. Part 3 dives into Small Business Entrepreneurship with Akilah Stewart and Ibada Wadud. Lastly, Part 4 contextualizes the landscape of Policy with Ify Ike and Ayesha Barenblat.

Terumi Murao is a sustainable stylist and model who works in the fashion and commercial advertising industry. She has worked previously in scientific research, luxury hospitality, and marketing for design & technology. Her curiosity and creative restlessness continually drive her to imagine and iterate on new human-centered, sustainable solutions. She cares deeply about fashion as a tool for personal growth, and a platform to elevate underrepresented voices and advocate for justice.

Links to Terumi’s work:

• Terumi’s Website
• Follow Terumi on Instagram

Aditi Mayer is a sustainable fashion blogger, photographer, and journalist whose work explores the intersections of style, sustainability, and social justice. Seeing fashion's disproportionate effects on communities of color globally, she began her blog, ADIMAY.com, after the Bangladesh Rana Plaza factory in 2014. She has become a frequent speaker on topics of social and environmental justice, with recent collaborators including Human Rights Watch, Timberland, Planet Home, Vegan Fashion Week, and more. Currently, she is working with the Garment Workers Center to elevate stories of labor exploitation in LA.

Links to Aditi’s work:

• ADIMAY.com, Aditi’s Blog
• Aditi’s Photojournalism Portfolio
• LA Garment Worker COVID Relief fund
• Follow Aditi on Instagram

Whitney McGuire is an attorney for creative entrepreneurs. She is also a co-founder of Sustainable Brooklyn, and co-founder of the record label swiMMMers ear with her husband. She became an emerging leader in the field of Fashion Law and is former chairperson of Fashion Law Week, the first week-long symposium dedicated to educating the community about legal issues impacting the fashion industry. Through her work, she champions the sustainability of those hailing from targeted communities including artists and advocates.

Links to follow Whitney’s work:

• "In The Future, Black People Are..."
• Whitney’s Website
• Sustainable Brooklyn Website
• Vogue Article
• Follow Whitney on Instagram

Kimberly Jenkins is Assistant Professor of Fashion Studies at Ryerson University, lecturing previously at Parsons School of Design and Pratt Institute. Kim became best known for designing a course and exhibition called Fashion and Race, and has shared her insights globally in industry forums and institutions. Her expertise on fashion history and infusing 'race' into fashion theory education has led to consulting work for Gucci, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, the Centraal Museum along with other corporate brands and organizations. Kim is the founder of The Fashion and Race Database, an online platform filled with open-source tools that expand the narrative of fashion history and challenge mis-representation within the fashion system.

Links to follow Kimberly's work:

• Kimberly’s Website
• The Fashion and Race Database (founded by Kim)
• Donate to The Fashion and Race Database
• Kimberly's 3-part exhibition, 'Fashion and Race: Deconstructing Ideas, Reconstructing Identities,' hosted by Google Arts & Culture
• Kimberly featured in Vogue
• Kimberly featured in The Guardian
• Kimberly featured in The Washington Post

• Follow Kimberly on Instagram

• Follow The Fashion and Race Database on Instagram

Akilah Stewart is a sustainable lifestyle RE-programmer, community organizer and the founder of FATRA. Focusing on creative waste management, FATRA is known for transforming single use plastic and dead stock material into the“Recycled Bottle Bag” -- RE-inventing the way we define traditional luxury products by incorporating raw materials and alternative design methods. As a first generation American born to Caribbean parents, Akilah Stewart shares sustainability through an indigenous vantage point - one that REconnects us with working with our hands, respecting the land, and encourages us to make something from nothing.

Links to follow Akilah’s work:

• FATRA’s Website
• MelaninASS Interview
• Monte Carlo Fashion Week
• Susty Soul Podcast Interview
• Peachy Keen Interview
• Waste Led Design Interview, Slow Factory
• Follow Akilah on Instagram

Ibada Wadud is the Founder & Head of Impact at LULAH and a member of the Adjunct Faculty at Parsons School of Design in the Department of Design Strategies. LULAH makes better handbags designed in Brooklyn to employ formerly incarcerated women. In 2019, LULAH received the Girlboss Foundation Prize, was featured in New York Magazine's The Cut, and participated in Essence Festival in New Orleans. Prior to founding LULAH, Ibada was a member of the Corporate Social Responsibility team at Kate Spade, and has worked with Ermenegildo Zegna, Gucci and Fendi. She has particularly focused on artisan communities throughout her career with a concentration on economic development. Ibada recently joined The Slow Factory team where she contributes her Design Justice practice to advocate for diversity, equity and inclusion within sustainability.

Links to follow Ibada’s work:

• Lulah, Ibada's brand
• Follow Ibada on Instagram
• Follow Lulah on Instagram

Ayesha Barenblat (@remakeourworld) is the founder of Remake, a nonprofit organization dedicated to building a community of conscious consumers, and engaging millennial shoppers through films, visual storytelling and immersive journeys to connect us as humans back to makers. In the past, she led brand engagement at Better Work, a World Bank and United Nations partnership to ensure safe and decent working conditions around the world. Prior to this, she was head of consumer products at BSR, providing strategic advice to brands including H&M, Levi Strauss & Co., Marks and Spencer, Nike, and The Walt Disney Company.

Links to follow Ayesha’s work:

• Remake’s Website
• Payup Fashion’s Website
• “'Lockdown has been a wakeup call for the industry': what next for fashion?” in The Guardian
• “15 Designers, Scientists, and Environmental Activists—From Ayesha Barenblat to Stella McCartney—On Sustaining the Fashion Industry” in Vogue
• Follow Remake on Instagram

Ifeoma Ike is a Nigerian-American attorney, artist and social change designer. With a vast career, ranging from Wall Street to Capitol Hill to on the ground movement lawyering, Ifeoma is the Founding Partner of equity strategy firm, Pink Cornrows. Recognized in 2019 by HBO & Vanity Fair for her justice and policy record, “Ify” is a thought partner for leaders committed to disrupting the status quo and creating a society that is just and fair for those traditionally marginalized.

Links to follow Ify’s work:

• Pink Cornrows Website
• Follow Ify on Instagram
• Follow Ify on Instagram
• Follow Pink Cornrows on Instagram

Thanks to this week's sponsor - MATE, a clean essentials brand made sustainably in Los Angeles with non-toxic, natural and organic materials. MATE hooked our show up with a discount code — use ROOT20 for 20% off and for first purchases only.

Learn more at MateTheLabel.com.

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The Root Episode 3: Racism In The Fashion Industry is broken down into 2 segments. The first segment focuses on the designer lens in which Dominique Drakeford speaks with sustainable fashion designers Miko Underwood and DJ discussing the creation of the fashion industry and the importance of shifting the white exploitive gaze through historical analysis, Black abundance mindset and cultural responsibility. In the second segment, Dominique Drakeford hones in on the “influencer” lens by speaking with Aja Barber and Emi Ito on the uses of social media as a tool for education, advocacy and solidarity against institutional oppression.

Damian Joel (preferably called D.J.) is a self-taught designer who credits his interest in fashion to years of witnessing his mother sweat over her sewing machine to make ends meet. After years of working in corporate Jamaica as a Marketing and PR executive, D.J. transitioned his career, and became a regular style correspondent on Jamaica’s morning show. He also acted as a Personal Stylist to Olympic gold medallist Shelly-Ann Fraser Pryce. In 2014, D.J. headed to New York, where he has managed to carve out his own space— without formal training — relying merely on his intuitive talent in fashion.

Links to DJ’s work:

• INTRO x DJ, D.J.'s brand
• Interview with MelaninASS
• NPR Interview
• FIT Black History Month Fashion Presentation
• Weeksville Heritage Centre Fashion Exhibit Review
• Follow DJ on Instagram

Miko Underwood is an artist, seasoned design director, sustainability practitioner, actionist and the founder of the first sustainable denim brand in Harlem, NY, Oak & Acorn - Only for the Rebelles, a genderless luxury heritage brand. A denim expert, with nearly twenty years of wash & product and brand development, Miko founded BLDG 357, Inc. a boutique multimedia design consultancy with global clients in the U.S., China, Hong Kong, Vietnam, New Zealand & West Africa. Miko is the consulting creative director for We Got Us Now, a nonprofit that focuses on identifying & amplifying the voices of children and young adults impacted by parental incarceration & active voice for those who share her personal story in the fashion community.

Links to Miko’s work:

• Miko’s brand Oak and Acorn, the first sustainable denim brand in Harlem, NY
• The Denim Collective, an educational initiative curated by Miko, that brings to the forefront the Black Community’s contributions to the origins of fashion - beginning with Denim
• Follow Miko on Instagram
• Follow Oak and Acorn on Instagram

Aja Barber is a writer, stylist and consultant who lives in London. Aja's work centers around fashion, feminism, sustainability, race, colonization and all the issues that are holding the fashion industry back from being its best self.

Links to follow Aja’s work:

• Subscribe to Aja’s Patreon
• “Why the sustainable fashion movement should always include plus-size people” on CNN Style
• “Conscious, ethical and cruelty-free: a guide to the language of sustainable fashion” in The Guardian
• Follow Aja on Instagram

Emi Ito is a mother and public educator on Chochenyo Ohlone land in the Bay Area. Her Buddhist practice and journey of becoming a mother led her to explore and embrace sustainable fashion. She became outspoken about the cultural appropriation of the kimono as well as the need for wider representation of BIPOC in ethical fashion. She is the founder and co-moderator of Buy From BIPOC, a website and Instagram that celebrates BIPOC makers and creatives with a focus on slow, sustainable, and ethical fashion. Emi is also a Steering Committee member of Japanese Americans for Justice and the Committee Chair for the Families & Kids Committee of Tsuru for Solidarity. Both organizations focus on anti-racist solidarity work to combat anti-Black racism and the incarceration of families by ICE.

Links to follow Emi’s work:

• “An Open Letter to White Makers & Designers Who Are Inspired by the Kimono & Japanese Culture”
• “Learning and Unlearning: an interview with Emi Ito on cultural appropriation” in Pom Pom Magazine
• Untangling The Threads Of The Kimono: Japan’s Colonial History & Cultural Reparations In Fashion on Matter Prints
• Follow Emi on Instagram

This week's episode is in partnership with Levi's. Coming this Fall, Levi’s® SecondHand— a new way to shop sustainably for well-worn, highly covetable, perfectly imperfect jeans. Because if everybody bought one used item of clothing this year, instead of buying new, it would save 449 million pounds of waste. (source: ThredUp) Learn more at Levi.com/Secondhand.

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In The Root Episode 2: The Power of Privilege, Dominique Drakeford speaks with activist-educators Ericka Hart, Blair Imani and Rachel Ricketts, discussing the functions of privilege and the importance of applying critical and intersectional approaches toward dismantling white supremacy in fashion and beyond.

Rachel Ricketts is a global thought leader + outspoken champion for Black and Indigenous womxn. As a racial justice activist, lawyer, healer, speaker + author, she educates white folx on their role in perpetuating white supremacy, and helps folx of colour heal from internalized oppression. Rachel’s work has been featured in Vox, Mind Body Green, Huffington Post, BuzzFeed, Elephant Journal, 21Ninety, Black Girl in Om and Thrive. She has worked with prestigious international companies including Google, WeWork, Lululemon and TELUS and presented at renowned conferences including SXSW 2018 + 2019. Rachel’s first book My Love Includes Anger will be published by Atria Books in 2021.

Links to Rachel’s work:

• Rachel’s Website
• Take Rachel’s Spiritual Activism Webinars
• More About Rachel’s Book Do Better: Spiritual Activism for Fighting and Healing From White Supremacy, Out Feb 2021
• Follow Rachel on Instagram

Ericka Hart, M.Ed., D/s, pronouns: she/they, is a Black queer femme activist, writer, highly acclaimed speaker and award-winning sexuality educator with a Master’s of Education in Human Sexuality from Widener University. Her work broke ground when she went topless showing her double mastectomy scars in public in 2016. She is currently an adjunct faculty member at Columbia University's School of Social Work.

Links to Ericka’s work:

• Ericka’s Website
• Book Ericka For A Workshop
• Ericka’s Webinars
• Hoodrat to Headwrap, Ericka’s Podcast
• Follow Ericka on Instagram

Blair Imani is a critically-acclaimed historian, outspoken advocate and activist, and dynamic public speaker. The author of two historical books: Modern HERstory: Stories of Women and Nonbinary People Rewriting History (2018) and Making Our Way Home: The Great Migration and The Black American Dream (2020), she centers women and girls, global Black communities, and the LGBTQ community. She takes education further on Patreon and provides publicly accessible weekly lessons on Instagram. Blair has appeared on Fox News and MSNBC, presented at colleges and universities, spoken at conferences around the world, and delivered powerful talks for organizations and brands including TEDx and GLAAD.

Links to Blair’s work:

• Blair’s Website
• Buy Blair’s Books
• Follow Blair on Instagram

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In The Root Episode 1: Racism as a System, Dominique Drakeford speaks with scholars and academic activists Nikki Sanchez and Lisa Betty on the importance of dismantling colonial systems and reclaiming the fullness of Native American & Afro-Indigenous history as a regenerative framework for liberation and true sustainability across every industry.

Nikki Sanchez is a Pipil/Maya and Irish/Scottish academic, Indigenous media maker, environmental educator and community organizer. She holds a master's degree in Indigenous Governance and is presently completing a Ph.D. with a research focus on emerging visual media technology as it relates to Indigenous ontology. Nikki's first book, Spirits of the Coast - An Anthology of the Salish Sea Resident Orca Whales - was just released by the Royal BC Museum. Nikki's most recent project is the 8-part documentary VICELAND series “RISE” focused on global Indigenous resurgence. RISE was debuted at Sundance in February 2017 and has received global critical acclaim, recently winning "best documentary" at the Canadian screen awards.

Links to Nikki’s work:

• Decolonization is for Everyone, TEDx Talk
• VICE docuseries RISE trailer
• Keynote Speakers Profile
• Follow Nikki on Instagram

Lisa Betty is a Ph.D. Candidate in History at Fordham University. She teaches on themes of labor, migration, and diaspora in the Americas, the Caribbean, and Africa. Lisa's dissertation research contributes to the growing body of scholarship on the Caribbean diaspora, with a focus on Jamaican migrants, in Cuba and the United States from the 1930s through the Cuban Revolution. She has worked in the field of nonprofit advocacy serving in organizations that advocate for children, families, immigrants, and incarcerated people, and leads antiracist teaching workshops. Proud of her family's southern and Jamaican roots, Lisa contributes to the development of safe, sustainable, and healing spaces for Black and Brown people.

Links to Lisa’s work:

• “12 Practices for Protecting and Maintaining Black & Brown Health During the COVID-19 Crisis”, April, 2020
• “Lifting Up Black and Brown Health and Wellness during the COVID-19 Crisis: Moving beyond respectability politics & white supremacist logic”, April, 2020
• “‘Black Death’: Race and Representations of the Ebola epidemic and COVID-19 pandemic”, May, 2020
• “Being Black at Fordham: Recommendations for an antiracist and equity-oriented university culture”, June, 2020
• “General Harriet Tubman (1820–1913): Healing Historical Exploitation”, July, 2020
• “At the Intersection of Undocumented and Black: Anti-Blackness in U.S. Immigration Policy — Part 1”, July, 2020
• “Disney, Capitalism, and Beyoncé’s Black Is King: In the midst of protest and pandemic, how should we engage with Beyoncé and Disney’s Black Is King?”, July, 2020
• “Marcus Aurelius “Mosiah” Garvey: Garveyism, Black sovereignty, and the Universal Negro Improvement Association (UNIA) and African Communities League”, August, 2020
• Follow Lisa on Instagram

Thank you to this week's sponsor, FIBERSHED. Learn more about FIBERSHED at www.fibershed.org.

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In episode 204, Kestrel welcomes Kamea Chayne, the host of Green Dreamer Podcast, to the show. A Taiwanese American eco creative, writer and author, Kamea illuminates our paths to ecological regeneration, intersectional sustainability, and true abundance and wellness for all through her powerful show, Green Dreamer.

“Sustainability to me isn’t an individualistic pursuit for individual people or brands — rather, it’s a collective goal requiring context and systemic change. In order to be sustainable, we also need to be regenerative in our actions and practices.” -Kamea Chayne, Host of Green Dreamer Podcast On this week’s show, Kamea shares more on her journey, along with the origins and evolution of her podcast, Green Dreamer. Kestrel asks Kamea to share more on what regenerative means to her, and she outlines the way she interprets it, with relation to sustainability.

Also, Kamea shares more on what she has learned through her show, with regard to why we need to decolonize “environmental conservation”. As Green Dream has over 250 episodes, Kamea suggests a collection of her favorite episodes to get you started, if you’re new to her show.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Ecologist Guide To Fashion by Ruth Styles
• Kamea’s Instagram post on the need to decolonize environmental conservation
• More on decolonizing “environmental conservation” in Kamea's newsletter >
• Braiding Sweetgrass by Robin Wall Kimmerer
• “On The Stubborn Whiteness of Environmentalism” by Danielle Purifoy in Inside Higher Ed
• “Abundance is sort of natural to what the ecology wants, and we realize that a lot of times scarcity is a human constructed concept as well.” -Kamea
• Biocultural diversity, a concept Kamea learned from Terralingua’s Director Luisa Maffi
• Fibershed, listen to the Conscious Chatter episode with their founder here >
• Regenerative Organic Certification, “a revolutionary new certification for food, fiber, and personal care ingredients. ROC farms and products meet the highest standards for soil health, animal welfare, and farmworker fairness.”
• “Liberal, progressive — and racist? The Sierra Club faces its white-supremacist history.” in The Washington Post
• The Robert Hanna Show #4 | Dr. Carolyn Finney (FYI — Robert Hanna is the great great grandson of John Muir)
• Subscribe to Kamea’s newsletter Embark >
• Green Dreamer Episode 173: Sean Sherman on Revitalizing Native American Foods and Re-Identifying North American Cuisine
• Green Dreamer Episode 179: Mark Charles on Unveiling the Deeper Roots of Our Systemic Social and Environmental Injustice
• Green Dreamer Episode 245: Gina Rae La Cerva on how our shift from eating wild to domesticated foods transformed our landscapes
• Green Dreamer Episode 248: Maxine Bédat on Setting New Standards of 'Sustainability' in the Fashion Industry
• Green Dreamer Episode 253: Aditi Mayer on Decolonizing Fashion and Going Beyond the Tokenism of Diversity
• California Native Seeds
• “People talk about humans being destructive — I really don’t like that narrative, because it’s really the how and it’s the systems that we have created and not us inherently, so I’m interested in learning how to be a more regenerative human.” -Kamea

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In episode 203, Kestrel welcomes Manpreet Kaur Kalra, the founder of Art of Citizenry, to the show. An activist and educator, Manpreet is dedicated to exploring the intersection of digital media, social impact and justice.

“One of those very tangible things that I often tell people that they need to work on is the language they use — really being thoughtful about words such as empowerment, which really imply this idea of the person on the receiving end is not empowered to begin with.” -Manpreet Kaur Kalra, Founder of Art of Citizenry On this week’s show, Manpreet shares more on what led her from the tech industry to creating her own unique business in the social impact space. After discovering how the minority voice is lost in sustainability, Manpreet set out to address power dynamics in social entrepreneurship.

Throughout the conversation, Manpreet breaks down more on heropreneurship, white saviorism, and what decolonization means to her. She also dives into more on how fashion has been built on appropriation, and what brands can be doing today to work toward building more cultural humility and empathy into their businesses.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Phulkari, traditional embroidery technique from Punjab
• “For me, I realized that colonization continues to influence society’s pervasive assumption that people of color need saving — and this idea of there being a Global North vs Global South really just reinforces that.” -Manpreet
• The Brandt Line, invisible line that was created in the ‘80s to separate the Global North from the Global South
• “And the fact that to be fair trade, you have to be working with a quote unquote marginalized community from the Global South is fundamentally reinforcing that power dynamic of the North helping the South — right, the top helping the bottom.” -Manpreet
• “What Broke Me Today: Why Language is Important When Navigating Inequity”, article by Manpreet
• “But the issue that most people don’t realize with social entrepreneurship is that impact does not scale like a business.” -Manpreet
• “Tackling Heropreneurship” in Stanford Social Innovation Review
• Manpreet suggests the best place to start is asking yourself these 4 core questions —
  1) Do I sound like a savior?
  2) Am I making blanket statements about a community or a culture?
  3) Do I have permission to share the information I’m sharing?
  4) Am I promoting cultural hegemony?
• “Fashion has been built on appropriation — it has been built on basically, stealing designs and concepts from communities that have been historically marginalized, and basically, reframing them to be quote unquote minimalist or really ethnic or boho chic.” -Manpreet
• “Cultural humility is a concept that comes out of global health — and it basically is this idea of not going into conversations with individuals who have different life experiences or communities other than your own with any assumptions, and just listening and having empathy.” -Manpreet

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In episode 202, Kestrel welcomes Fashion Psychologist Shakaila Forbes-Bell to the show. With her area of research focused on diversity in fashion and the importance of multicultural marketing, Shakaila was among the first people in the world to hold a Masters Degree in Psychology for Fashion Professionals at University of the Arts London: London College of Fashion, and she is also the founder of the platform Fashion Is Psychology.

“In the wake of the Black Lives Movement, when people are really starting to think about the lived experiences of Black people across all industries, we’re definitely going to start to see some major upheaval, and I’m quite excited about that.” -Shakaila Forbes-Bell, Fashion Psychologist + Founder of Fashion Is Psychology On this week’s show, Shakaila shares more on what led her from wanting to be “the Black female Frasier” and a clinical psychologist, to carving out her own space in the psychology discipline at the intersections of fashion, representation, media, and marketing.

Her undergraduate research, which she called “The Hoodie Project”, explored how the murder of Trayvon Martin was treated, and that led her to dive deeper into the way that clothing can be weaponized, why representation matters on all levels across industries, and the important of understanding the nuances of how power plays out in society.

Additionally, Shakaila shares more on how she feels fashion should truly make people happy — and that brands need to be empathetic to their shoppers, to reflect on how their marketing really makes them feel, in order to be as inclusive as possible in their messaging.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Million Hoodies March
• Vogue Italia’s July 2008 Black Issue
• Aja Barber, Kestrel mentions how she has been reading Aja’s work on the way brands are responding “performatively” to Black Lives Matter
• “The Relationship Between Fashion Psychology and Black Lives Matter”
• “Testing the effect of consumer-model racial congruency on consumer behavior”, Shakaila’s published paper
• “It takes around 66 days to change a habit.” -Shakaila
• “Representation for representation’s sake is dead.” -Shakaila

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In episode 201, Kestrel welcomes Samata, the CEO of Red Carpet Green Dress, to the show. A women-led global change-making organization working from ‘moment’ to movement, Red Carpet Green Dress creates awareness by showcasing sustainable fashion on the red carpet. A British born Ghanaian entrepreneur, Samata is also the founder of THE TRIBE, a women’s empowerment collective.

“I try and choose talent that will speak to different audiences, because part of the way that I think fashion is not intersectional is by the faces it presents as the messenger.” -Samata, CEO of Red Carpet Green Dress On this week’s show, Samata shares more on what she’s been up to over the last 4 years since she first came on the show, as well as what life looks like in her new role as the CEO of Red Carpet Green Dress. Kestrel and Samata also discuss how their perspectives have shifted when it comes to sustainability, since both recently becoming new moms.

Additionally, Samata shares more on the intentionality that goes into choosing talent for Red Carpet Green Dress, and the power of having access to a mainstream audience by partnering with the Oscars. Currently, Red Carpet Green Dress is hosting their 2020 Design Contest, of which designers around the world can enter — Samata explains how to enter, and the incredible opportunities the winner will receive.

Kestrel and Samata dive into more on the cultural context and meaning behind garments, as well as the way fashion can be weaponized. Samata shares a story about a conversation she had with someone on the “professionalism” of headwraps, and more on what they mean to her personally.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “Changing mindsets is actually where I think the battle is won.” -Samata
• Red Carpet Green Dress Design Contest 2020
• Tencel, RCGD partner for the Design Contest, designers get to choose from 3 Tencel fabrications to incorporate into their entry
• Laura Basci, couture designer that will provide mentorship to Design Contest winner
• Alice Elia, former winner of the Red Carpet Green Dress Design Contest
• Samata’s Instagram post about headwraps
• The Zoot Suit
• Suggested podcast from intro — Hot Take hosted by Mary Annaise Heglar and Amy Westervelt — episode “Media In Meltdown and Climate In Crisis with Kendra Pierre-Louis”

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In episode 200, Kestrel welcomes Sanah Sharma, the founder of her eponymous label, to the show. A conceptual sustainable fashion brand from Chennai, India, Sanah Sharma is focused on making aesthetic clothing that is intelligently engineered and tested for human kinetics.

“Everything in our universe is in a constant state of motion. So, I really think — you know, we’re not static, so why should our clothes be statically designed?” -Sanah Sharma, Founder of Sanah Sharma On this week’s show, Sanah shares more on how her love of fashion and making clothing began when she was a little girl — she would upcycle the clothes she grew out of into clothes for her dolls. She also explains that while she learned more about the concept of sustainability at university, she quickly realized that she had many of these ideals already in her, from growing up in her Indian culture.

Sanah developed her own zero waste design technique called Planar Flux, of which other designers can access if they are interested in learning the process. In line with this technique — which plays off of the idea that we are in a constant state of motion — Sanah also incorporates digital human kinetics testing into the development of her garments because as she says, “I make clothing for humans.”

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “We have about a 15% cutting waste that happens in fashion, and that’s a lot. So, for me, it was about — how can I create something where I can use lesser material to make beautiful clothes?”
• Professor Julian Roberts of The Royal College of Arts, a mentor to Sanah — find him on Instagram here >
• Planar Flux, zero waste design technique developed by Sanah
• Guppy Bag + Cora Ball — products that help collect microplastics in your washing machine before they drain out into our waterways
• Brian Greene, physicist and author Sanah is doing a lot of reading of at the moment
• “Everything in science has design, and everything in design has science, so they’re very intricately connected.”
• “The Women Series featuring Tabitha St. Bernard-Jacobs” — an interview on The Frontlash, suggested in the intro

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In episode 199, Kestrel welcomes Laura Wittig, the cofounder and CEO of Brightly, to the show. A curated discovery platform, Brightly aims to empower conscious consumers around the world. Laura is also the co-host of the Good Together podcast.

“You are sending a message to the big corporations of the world — whether you are purchasing Fair Trade coffee at Target or you’re purchasing something from a small brand.” -Laura Wittig, cofounder + CEO of Brightly On this week’s show, Laura shares more on her unique background working with companies like Google, Amazon, and Adobe, and how those experiences helped her eventually launch Brightly.

Additionally, Laura shares her thoughts on whether the tech landscape is shifting to bring more social good into the mix, and how COVID-19 has already transformed the future of tech.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “Eco-Friendly Finds From Target” on Brightly’s TikTok
• “What’s Your Sustainability Superpower?” Brightly Quiz
• Natalie of Sustainably Chic
• “Why Your Clean Beauty Routine Makes A Difference” with Tiila Abbitt on The Good Together Podcast
• Podcast suggestion from intro: Gina Rae La Cerva on Green Dreamer by Kámea Chayne

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In episode 198, Kestrel welcomes Vin+Omi, award winning fashion and multi media designers, to the show. One of the leading pioneering eco fashion brands today, VIN+OMI are focused on sustainable approaches to business, design and textiles.

“We don’t need another fashion brand — we don’t. You know, we have enough clothes, if everybody stopped production tomorrow (all fashion houses and every fashion brand stopped), we have enough clothes to last us at least 6 generations.” -Omi, Cofounder of VIN+OMI On this week’s show, Vin+Omi share more on the unique path they took to becoming fashion designers. They outline some of the sustainable textiles they’ve developed, including their latex project in Malaysia and their nettle project with Prince Charles.

Kestrel asks Omi to share more context on a quote from him that was featured in Business of Fashion where he said that “sustainability is a dirty word” that he hates.

They also discuss how they’ve intentionally resisted the traditional fashion system throughout their evolution, and found unique ways to work outside of it, by taking time to consciously build a sustainable business model.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• When London first starting talking about Vin+Omi in the press, they called them “the black sheep” because they were known for being “against the system”
• A Nesta scholarship early in their careers helped Vin+Omi further build the early stages of the company
• Vin+Omi’s first project was focused on latex in Malaysia
• “Because of the scholarship that we had, it really allowed us to step away from the system, and really decide whether we wanted to be a one hit wonder in fashion or if we wanted to really build foundations before we plotted concrete, and then plotted the house.” -Omi
• “These Designers Want to Fight Climate Change. Just Don't Call Them 'Sustainable'“, BoF article where Omi said, “Sustainability as a word is so dirty … We hate the word.”
• “The business needs to be able to shift gears and mold very quickly to what society demands, opposed to what we dictate to society, because the landscape has changed.” -Omi
• Vin+Omi’s collaboration with Prince Charles
• “We don’t need another fashion brand — we don’t. You know, we have enough clothes, if everybody stopped production tomorrow (all fashion houses and every fashion brand stopped), we have enough clothes to last us at least 6 generations. We don’t need another fashion brand — what we need is fresh ideas — we need thinkers. We need people to infiltrate the system, while keeping the economy going.”
• “The fashion industry is in a cocoon — a really nice shiny little bell jar cocoon — and it’s just perpetuating the same problem over and over and over again.” -Omi

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In episode 197, Kestrel welcomes Dr. Hakan Karaosman and Professor Donna Marshall to the show. A sustainability management professional and award-winning researcher, Hakan is also a fashion supply chain and sustainability expert at the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe. Donna is a Professor of Supply Chain Management, Head of Research, Innovation and Impact, and the Director of the Centre for Business and Society at University College Dublin.

The European Commission recently awarded Donna and Hakan with the prestigious Marie Skłodowska-Curie Individual Fellowship award for their forthcoming project, FReSCH (Fashion’s Responsible Supply Chain Hub) to be conducted at University College Dublin.

“In times of uncertainty, bureaucracy doesn’t work, hierarchy doesn’t work — and we need to have these much more flat network systems, which seem to be much more innovative, much more agile — and that’s really about tearing down some of the cultures that are really embedded within the fashion industry at the moment. ” -Donna Marshall, Professor of Supply Chain Management On this week’s show, both Hakan and Donna share more on how the fashion industry needs to work to take the ego out of the way they do business — and according to their research, this will actually be “good for business”.

Donna shares more on how simple shifts in the words we are using can make significant changes — that certain words reinforce hierarchical frameworks, while others can reinforce collaboration. For example, shifting the job role name from “buyer” to “relationship manager” made a massive positive impact on one multinational company that she and Hakan have worked with.

For both Donna and Hakan, transparency is important and a powerful first step, but it is absolutely not synonymous with sustainability, and must be looked at across every area of a supply chain.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “Unfortunately, fashion betrayed its own values.” -Hakan
• “To me, the future will be something in which growth will not be measured only by financial terms — it will be really about a system that is socially just, economically inclusive, and environmentally regenerative.” -Hakan
• “I say the solution will be shorter supply chains, which we can actually control.” -Hakan
• Fashion Revolution Transparency Index
• “One of the things that we’ve found again and again with multi-stakeholder initiatives that are being really successful and actually bringing radical transformation and change — both socially for people and environmentally for the planet — is around inclusiveness and representation.” -Donna
• “And unfortunately this current fashion schedule that we all criticize, that should change, doesn’t allow us to listen to people, and unfortunately the leg of empathy is a bottleneck in the fashion industry, so people don’t really interpret or listen to what workers are dealing with.” -Hakan
• Better Work Initiative
• Greenpeace Detox My Fashion
• “Transparency is now being seen by investors, by the big pension funds, as really a proxy for good business.” -Donna
• “Brands will be remembered for what they did in this crisis.” -Hakan
• Hakan will be curating and moderating a session on climate change and the circular economy for the forthcoming Fashinnovation Worldwide Talk on June 5th
• Donna and Hakan will be giving a keynote for this online webinar co-organized by The Financial Times on June 18th
• More on Donna + Hakan’s forthcoming project FReSCH:
  FReSCH will be one of the first research projects to investigate economic, environmental and social sustainability to understand the trade-offs, tensions and outcomes between them in the transition to a low-carbon circular fashion industry. By using a novel methodology, simultaneous multi-level action research, with a brand name company and their supply chain, FReSCH will take a top-down and bottom-up approach by examining a fashion supply chain in transition to uncover the realities of SME suppliers and their workers. The outcomes of the project will provide insight into the economic and environmental demands placed on suppliers and how these impact working conditions and human rights practices. The project will also show how companies can use worker self-determination practices to solve problems in and across supply chains.
• From The Intro: 18 FASHION PEOPLE RECOMMEND THEIR SUSTAINABILITY MUST-READS by Whitney Bauck

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In episode 196, Kestrel welcomes Kayti O’Connell Carr, the founder and creative director of MATE, to the show. A clean essentials brand, MATE is made sustainably in Los Angeles with nontoxic and certified organic materials.

“I realized that the missing piece — a part of the sustainability conversation — is fashion’s impact that it has on us as women from a health’s perspective.” -Kayti O’Connell Carr, Founder of MATE On this week’s show, Kayti shares more on her journey of starting MATE, and how much the brand has evolved since its early days as a vintage tee brand. Kestrel asks Kayti to walk us through her process of shifting MATE from using conventional fabrics to organic nontoxic options, and how their Dress Clean initiative now drives the company.

For Kayti, realizing the impact that clothing can have on women’s health was a big moment for her, and influenced how she wanted to ensure MATE’s products were nontoxic and healthy for our bodies.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Some resources Kayti used while conceptualizing the “Dress Clean” initiative for MATE:
  Documentaries The True Cost + River Blue, Wear No Evil by Greta Eagan + Conscious Chatter
• Dr. Zach Bush, his work focuses on how the soil of our health is interconnected with our individual health and the health of our planet
• “If you think about it, inside of a factory, there’s hundreds of thousands of microfibers just flying around at any given time, and what does that look like if the product itself is made from polyester, which is a plastic. We as humans are ingesting plastic at very alarming rates.”
• More on MATE’s Dress Clean Initiative >

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In episode 195, Kestrel welcomes Umberto De Marco, the founder of sustainable footwear brand, YATAY, to the show. In addition to his work building sneaker brand YATAY, Umberto is the president of eco-leather giant and family business Coronet.

“What I’ve been doing since I started working in the family company — I had a mission: trying to change a material that has always been just a simple, cheap alternative of leather — trying to evolve this material in a more sustainable and durable one.” -Umberto de Marco, Founder of YATAY On this week’s show, Umberto shares more on how he grew up in the leather alternatives industry, with his father being a pioneer in ‘eco-leathers’. When he joined the family business, Umberto was focused on finding more sustainable alternatives to the poly-based leathers they were offering.

Also, Umberto shares more on his own company YATAY, and how they are working to further close the loop in their manufacturing, so eventually, every component of the shoe can be recycled and put back into future shoes.

Being that YATAY and Coronet are based in Milan, Italy, Umberto shares more on how COVID-19 has impacted his work and what he thinks lies ahead for the fashion industry-at-large.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• 70% of the electricity used for the production at Coronet’s facilities comes from solar panels.
• At Coronet, they started an incentive program for their workers, where all the money that is saved from their efforts in reducing waste in the manufacturing process is given back to the workers at the end of each year.
• YATAY’s shoe box converts into a backgammon board game, as a way to reduce the waste that comes with packaging. Also, they include a little bag made from excess bio-based leather, complete with checkers inside.
• YATAY Forest, on the back of each pair of shoes, there is a code — when a shopper enters it on the website, they can select what type of tree they’d like to plant in YATAY’s “forest” in Kenya, and then they can monitor their tree and stay up to date on how it’s growing and how much CO2 it absorbs. Also, the shopper will be advised on when their tree has absorbed enough CO2 to offset the production of their shoes.
• More on the materials in YATAY’s shoes >

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In episode 194, Kestrel welcomes Shahidha Bari, author of Dressed: A Philosophy Of Clothes, to the show. A Professor of Fashion Cultures and Histories at the London College of Fashion and a fellow of the Forum for European Philosophy at London School of Economics, Shahidha is dedicated to contributing a discourse around fashion to the philosophy field.

“I feel like there has to be some sort of intellectual, cultural shift about the way that we regard our clothes— the forms of attention we give them — not just in how we buy, but how we think about them as artifacts: artifacts that have passed through many hands before they come to our own and artifacts that are expressive of our humanity.” -Shahidha Bari, Author of Dressed: A Philosophy Of Clothes On this week’s show, Shahidha shares more on her background and how her unique experiences with dressing throughout her childhood along with her synesthesia have influenced the work that she does today.

While Shahidha was writing her book, Dressed: A Philosophy of Clothes, the Rana Plaza disaster happened. According to her, this garment factory tragedy impacted the book was was writing. For Shahidha, she believes there must be some sort of cultural shift in the way that we regard our garments, and that they warrant dignity as well.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Synesthesia: when your sensory faculties can get muddled up — Shahidha has a unique way in which her perceptual factors and memories work where she often associates people and words with color and texture
• “So I lived in a world where the way you existed and moved through the world was shaped by your clothes.”
• Phenomenology: recording or thinking about the feeling of things, the feeling of existence
• “I think the quintessential experience of womanhood is the failure to be a woman, which is why I’m so interested in the experience of trans women too.”
• “There’s a kind of dignity that I wanted to give our clothes — I think that the people who make our clothes very often make it in such unhappy circumstances, that they warrant dignity too, and us being able to give our clothes dignity is one way that we start to recognize the kind of dignity we need to extend to the people who make our clothes too.”
• “I think there’s a lot to be said for being comfortable right now.”
• Buy Shahidha's book Dressed: A Philosophy Of Clothes here >

This week's episode is brought to you by Fair Trade USA. Each year, Fair Trade USA honors the people who made our clothes and advocates for safer and more sustainable practices in its 'We Wear Fair Trade' campaign.

Visit https://www.fairtradecertified.org/we-wear-fair-trade to learn about the fair trade difference in fashion and to meet this year's featured activists.

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In episode 193, Kestrel welcomes James Bartle, the Founding CEO of Outland Denim, to the show. Outland crafts premium denim jeans designed to bring the worlds of their seamstresses and their customers closer together. They made history as the first-ever denim brand to win the Thomson Reuters Stop Slavery Award in 2020.

“It’s like they absorb history — they’re kind of like a song where they take you back to a memory and it’s for that reason that you don’t throw out a beautiful, premium pair of jeans even when they’re worn out — you want to leave them in your cupboard because of those memories that are associated with that product. And again, I think that’s what gives it so much power in being able to impact people.” -James Bartle, Founding CEO of Outland Denim On this week’s show, James shares more on how he went from being a freestyle motorbike rider to building a denim brand, after learning more deeply about the realities of human trafficking.

James also shares that with Outland Denim’s model, their seamstresses are trained on all the intricacies to construct a beautiful pair of jeans, so in their manufacturing, their employees actually sew entire garments. Typically in factories, sewers only sew one component of the garment repeatedly.

As James says, “I guess the reason that we don’t see that as a viable or sustainable option is that it really does trap her into a much smaller variety of opportunities for her to be able to progress in her career and work life.”

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “I think one of the keys in the success that we’ve been able to have on a social level is that we recognize that we can’t make the change for them — we just need to give them the tools for them to make the changes in their lives themselves.”
• “You know — often a brand will have a sustainable collection or a sustainable line — you know, to me that just says you’re not a sustainable brand.”
• "Sustainable brand Outland Denim feels the Markle effect with a 948% increase in traffic", article on Harper’s Bazaar, October 2018
• Outland was able to employ 46 new seamstresses as a result of Meghan Markle wearing their product
• Outland Denim’s equity crowdfunding LIVE webinar on April 2nd, 2020 at 9am PST // register here >
• Follow @consciouschatter for more details on the LIVE series launching on The Sustainable Fashion Forum's Instagram next week!

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In episode 192, Kestrel welcomes Brian Bushell, the cofounder of By Humankind, to the show. A personal care brand, By Humankind’s products are designed to reduce single-use plastic waste from your daily routine.

“We really wanted to be able to make an impact — we wanted to allow our customers to truly reduce their own single-use plastic waste function just by going through their morning routine.” -Brian Bushell, Cofounder of By Humankind On this week’s show, Brian shares more on how a scuba diving trip initially inspired him to look further into the global issues surrounding single-use plastic waste.

When he discovered that one third of all plastic waste in landfills comes from a personal care product, he saw a need to build a personal care brand that not only cared about creating clean formulas, but also clean containers.

Brian explains how he started with one idea — to make a natural deodorant — and worked with a chemist to see if he could build a good product. After working on this for six months, and realizing that they could make it happen, he sought out a cofounder and started building By Humankind.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• 1/3 of all plastic in landfills is from personal care products
• “We’re about 13 months in, and we’ve already figured out that our community has eliminated 11,000 pounds of single-use plastic waste from going into the environment.”
• Slow Factory’s post about reduction of emissions over China since COVID-19
• Aja Barber’s Instagram post “What About The Garment Workers?”, mentioned in the intro

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In episode 191, Kestrel welcomes Kimberley Smith, the Chief Supply Chain Officer at Everlane, to the show. Known for their messaging around radical transparency, Everlane prides themselves on building timeless products that are designed to last.

“We can be better — I mean we’re not perfect in any way. It doesn’t happen overnight, and I think that’s something that — our customer, just be patient, but we are listening … we really admire them, and we really want their feedback. And so, I think that that’s important for them to continue to challenge us.” On this week’s show, Kim shares more on her background, and how she found her way into the sustainable fashion world. She also walks us through more on how Everlane’s product has evolved over the years, starting with a focus on natural materials, and now evolving toward more sustainable materials and solutions.

Kestrel asks Kim to respond to a petition that nonprofit Remake authored on Change.org, called “Ask Everlane To Share Worker Conditions (And Stop Greenwashing).” Kim responds by explaining more of what Everlane has been doing behind the scenes, how they need to be sharing more information with their shoppers, and how their new sustainability page will help answer some of these questions.

Also, Kim reveals the details on Everlane’s recent sustainability commitments — no new plastic by 2021 and 100% certified organic cotton by 2023.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• ”I think if you don’t have visibility in your supply chain, it’s hard to make change.”
• Everlane’s new Sustainability page >
• ReNew by Everlane, made from recycled plastic bottles
• ReCashmere by Everlane, made from recycled cashmere and wool
• ReCotton by Everlane, made from recycled cotton
• Tread by Everlane, low-impact sneakers, working toward closing their loop with these
• “Ask Everlane To Share Worker Conditions (And Stop Greenwashing)” — petition on Change.org started by nonprofit Remake, that Kestrel asks Kim to respond to
• Everlane’s Vendor Code of Conduct
• Everlane’s Organic Commitment: to change all of their cotton to organic by 2023

This week's episode is brought to you by United By Blue, a sustainable lifestyle brand from Philadelphia that makes men's and women's apparel, bags, and accessories.

Use CHATTER30 for 30% off your order at United By Blue >

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In episode 190, Kestrel welcomes Erin Flynn, the CEO of Cladwell, to the show. A personal styling app, Cladwell allows users to add in their clothes (without taking photos) and it will generate daily outfits personalized for their weather.

”I would go to my closet and say the same thing which is, I have too many clothes and nothing to wear, which was ridiculous because I had over 450 items hanging in my closet — so, there was no reason that I should have nothing to wear.” -Erin Flynn, CEO of Cladwell On this week’s show, Erin shares more on how the financial crisis got her originally into fashion blogging and entrepreneurship. Also, she explains how she first got connected with Cladwell, and eventually decided to purchase it to have more autonomy over the gradual growth of the company.

Kestrel and Erin talk a lot about personal style and finding ways to appreciate the clothes we already have. For Erin, she believes that if you don’t understand your personal style, it’s difficult to build a closet that you love.

Also, Erin walks us through more on how the Cladwell app works, and the ways it can help you get dressed every day, get in tune with your personal style, and find ways to utilize the pieces in your closet.

Kestrel asks Erin to explore the idea of behavior change, and ways in which Cladwell is successfully challenging people to shift their habits to a less is more approach.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “I was in this endless cycle of shopping, thinking that that would solve my style problem.”
• “I really believe that everyone has kind of their own unique, personal style, but I also believe that most people don’t know what they like. And so, it’s really hard to build a closet you love when you don’t know what you like.”
• “We were originally investor-backed … we ultimately ended up buying the company, and the whole goal now is to make it a sustainable and profitable company really driven by our values and our mission.”
• “It’s really about making the most of your closet, so we’re trying to help you love and wear everything you own.”
• The app shares this stat: the average person only wears 20% of their closet.
  The average Cladwell user wears 65% of their closet, and the app can help you track how much of your closet you’re actually wearing.
• Subscribe to Black Sustainability newsletter by Dominique Drakeford (mentioned in intro)

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In episode 189, Kestrel welcomes Clarenda "Farmer Cee" Stanley, a fifth generation farmer, to the show. In addition to being the CEO of Green Heffa Farms, a medicinal plant and hemp farm in Liberty, North Carolina, Cee is also a senior principal gifts officer at The Nature Conservancy's World Office.

”We hustle, and the reason for that is being a black-owned farm, a black woman-owned farm — I mean, you gotta look at the numbers: 96% of all private farm land is white-owned — that leaves 4% for everybody else.” -Farmer Cee, CEO of Green Heffa Farms On this week’s show, Cee shares more on what led her eventually back to farming, after having grown up on a farm as a child. She also highlights more on the extreme discrepancy that still exists within agriculture today, and how 96% of all private farm land is white-owned. For Cee, beyond farming, it’s also important for her to provide education to black women and women of color who are interested in learning more about growing.

Kestrel asks Cee to outline more on what regenerative agriculture means to Green Heffa Farms. For Cee, she’s currently exploring using ecological consciousness instead as she believes regenerative agriculture can be another “club for exclusivity”.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Green Heffa Farms 4 Es: economic empowerment, equity, education and the environment
• “How Racism Has Shaped The American Farming Landscape” in the Eater, article Kestrel mentioned
• Regenerative agriculture: implementing practices that are going to improve the outcomes for your soils health, enrich your soil, prevent erosion, increase biodiversity onto the land, improve the ecosystem and the watersheds — the goal is to capture carbon in the soil
• “Even though 80% of registered producers or farmers are considered to be small farms, I think they put out less than 20% of all total commodities sold — it might even be lower than that.”
• “How do we make regenerative agriculture so that the small farmer can even afford to do it? It’s way cheaper to grow dirty.”
• “I say ecological consciousness because understanding sometimes change has to happen gradually, understanding that regenerative agriculture can be another club for exclusivity because as someone who works for a large environmental organization, I am committed to taking good care of the soil, increasing biodiversity, doing my part as far as carbon. You know — I can’t pay for eco-friendly inks right now on my labels or go completely no-till, so there’s definitely some cost prohibition, but I can make some steps and find out information and share that information, and that’s what I try to do.”
• Ultimate vision for Green Heffa Farms, showcased in these 3D renderings
• Gaia Herbs, one of Cee’s business idols
• “Inside the Secret World of Vintage Fashion Scouting” on The Business Of Fashion, article Kestrel mentioned in the intro

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In episode 188, Kestrel welcomes Adriana Galijasevic, the Denim and Sustainability Expert at G-Star RAW, back to the show, alongside Sofie Schop, G-Star RAW’s Sustainability Director. Less than 2 years since the last time G-Star RAW came on the show, this conversation provides an opportunity to check in on the brand and how far they’ve come with their sustainability goals.

”It’s a journey of continuous improvement, and always looking for the solutions. And we always look at these challenges as actually enablers of new design, rather than looking at them as barriers or obstacles to what we do.” -Adriana Galijasevic, Denim + Sustainability Expert at G-Star RAW On this week’s show, Adriana and Sofie share more on G-Star RAW’s recently updated denim icons. Basically, they took their iconic styles that have been selling well, and applied their circular principles to these designs. 100% recyclable, these styles have received the highest denim product certification yet issued by the Cradle to Cradle Product Innovation Institute.

Additionally, Kestrel, Adriana and Sofie talk about what G-Star RAW’s sustainability goals are, where they are at now, and where they hope to be in the future.

Below is a breakdown of G-Star RAW’s sustainable material and sustainable cotton usage over the years.

Their goal by the end of 2020 is to have 100% sustainable cotton and 90% sustainable material.

Sustainable material
2016 – 30%
2017 – 57.30%
2018 – 74%
2019 – 86%
2020 – 90%

Sustainable cotton
2017 – 70%
2018 – 89%
2019 – 97%
2020 – 100%

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• G-Star RAW unveiled the world’s first Cradle to Cradle certified gold stretch denim fabric in October 2019
• Roica, the stretch fiber used in G-Star RAW’s Cradle to Cradle Certified Gold stretch denim fabric
• The new icons were made with the collaboration of 15 partners, and the full products are Cradle to Cradle Certified Gold
• “Cradle To Cradle certification is the most rigorous because it looks at the design from five different perspectives — the material health, water stewardship, social fairness, material utilization, and reuse of renewable energies.”
• Saitex, G-Star RAW’s sustainable manufacturing partner
• RAW Responsibility, details on G-Star RAW's sustainability approach

*This week's episode is brought to you by G-Star RAW.

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In episode 187, Kestrel welcomes Dana Thomas, the author of Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes, to the show. A regular contributor to The New York Times Style section, Dana has also written for The New York Times Magazine, The New Yorker, The Wall Street Journal, the Financial Times, Vogue, and Harper's Bazaar, among others. She was recently named the editor-at-large for Vogue Business, which is based out of London.

“They’re saying from day 1 — no, we’re going to start our company with this zero-waste idea, as opposed to trying to change it. And I think that they’re the ones that are going to survive and the old dinosaurs who are stuck in their ways — they’re going to go down, they’re going to go down hard — big and hard.” -Dana Thomas, Author of Fashionopolis On this week’s show, Dana shares more on how she got started in the fashion industry working as a model in the 1970s. After leaving modeling to get an education to pursue a career in journalism, Dana found herself back in the fashion industry, working under Nina Hyde at The Washington Post.

Kestrel asks Dana to describe what she tells people when they ask her the question, “what should I wear?”. Also, we learn about some of the fashion changemakers that Dana included in her newest book, Fashionopolis.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Nina Hyde, former fashion editor of The Washington Post, who Dana worked under
• “And she [Nina Hyde] showed me that covering fashion wasn’t about hemlines and heel heights — it was about politics and business.”
• France’s single-use plastic ban
• “Fashion has a misinformation problem. That’s bad for the environment.” via Vox
• Some of the individuals featured in Dana’s book:
• Stella McCartney
• Stacy Flynn of Evrnu
• Sara Bellos of Stony Creek Colors
• Sally Fox of Fox Fibre
• Unwrinkling Roundup, Whitney Bauck of Fashionista’s new weekly newsletter

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In episode 186, Kestrel welcomes creative consultant, writer, author and photographer Olivia Lopez to the show. Known for her aesthetics-driven Instagram presence and design-travel-and-fashion blog Lust For Life, Olivia is also the founder of Bon Weekender, an art and objects shop featuring vintage sourced from around the world. She also recently published her book “Lust for Los Angeles: A Cultural Guide to LA”.

“I’m spending so much more time investing in dance classes and all these other things that just provide a richer experience … I feel like that feels more sustainable than shopping … before, shopping was the ultimate form of entertainment, but you know — after I attain a garment, that’s pretty much it.” -Olivia Lopez, Founder of Lust For Life + Bon Weekender On this week’s show, Olivia shares more on how she started her blog way back in high school, and how she grew up in a unique era, where digital hadn’t yet become the powerhouse that it is today.

Also, Olivia talks about what vintage has meant to her throughout her life, and how her nostalgic nature has always attracted her to secondhand garments.

Kestrel brings up a recent article from Elle.com that questions whether influencers can “help save the planet,” and asks Olivia if she finds it challenging to balance her values and brand partnerships as an influencer.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “Vintage and The Circular Economy” on The Dossier, article Olivia shared that led Kestrel to want to bring her on the show
• “Can Instagram Influencers Help Save The Planet?” on Elle
• Bon Weekender, Olivia's art and objects shop featuring vintage sourced from around the world
• “Lust for Los Angeles”, Olivia’s new book

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In episode 185, Kestrel welcomes Amanda Parkes, the Chief Innovations Officer at Pangaia, to the show. A materials science company, Pangaia is on a mission to save our environment.

“We are moving into the bioeconomy, which is this very notion that biomass is at the base of both agriculture, materials and energy. So, we can think about the circle and the interchange between all of those systems — it’s the basis of the true circular economy.” -Amanda Parkes, Chief Innovations Officer at Pangaia On this week’s show, Amanda shares more on her multidisciplinary background, and how she’s found a way to bridge her expertise in science, tech, and art with her work at Pangaia.

She talks about the unique attributes of Pangaia’s business model — how they bring together scientists, technologists, and designers in their work; and the way they make an R&D plan that goes 8 years out, which no fashion companies are doing today.

Additionally, Amanda breaks down more on Pangaia’s newest innovation — FLWRDWN™, what it’s really made of, and how it keeps you warm.

• Future Tech Lab a disruptive movement of innovators bridging together fashion and science to create a sustainable future / first experience Amanda had working with founder Miroslava Duma
• Pangaia’s t-shirts, made with seaweed fiber and organic cotton, dyed with natural botanical dyes, and treated with peppermint oil to allow you to wash your shirt less
• FLWRDWN™ is a fully biodegradable material, created with natural​ wild flowers, a biopolymer and infused with aerogel for performance and durability
• Global Fashion Exchange, host clothing swap events around the world

This week's episode is brought to you by Dough, a one stop shop to discover products by women-owned brands. As a member, you'll unlock thousands of dollars in discounts and drive your purchase power back into the hands of women.

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In episode 184, Kestrel welcomes Kelly Phenicie + Ellen Saville, the cofounders of The Endery, to the show. A brand born in Lima, Peru, The Endery plays with color using quality fibers to create lifelong knits that would otherwise have become waste.

“And just the whole manufacturing system has always been built around making what you need or want, rather than using what already exists. So, it is a lot of work to get people to think and work differently. There’s certainly not a blueprint for using deadstock, so we really just have to learn as we go.” -Kelly Phenicie, Cofounder of The Endery On this week’s show, Kelly and Ellen share more about how their work in the knitwear industry led them to want to find a creative way to address the excess and leftovers building up around them. Ellen breaks down some of the reasons why for The Endery, they believe alpaca is one of the most sustainable fibers.

Also, Kestrel, Kelly and Ellen discuss what makes a garment last in your wardrobe, and whether colorful designs can tout qualities like versatility and longevity. When it comes to their design process, Kelly and Ellen share more on the ways they are getting innovative, to be able to recycle their designs, depending on what deadstock yarn is available to them at any given time.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Green Design Link, separate company that Kelly owns and operates that specializes in producing hand knits on a large scale for sustainable clothing brands
• Inca Tops, an alpaca mill that Ellen does consulting work for
• In Peru alone, at least 15+ tons of yarn leftovers are piling up from different yarn suppliers and factories every year
• “It's about going offscript with fashion manufacturing and encouraging color to be unruly, clashing and expressive. To make stuff that makes us feel good about ourselves, the way we buy and the mark we leave on our society and earth. All of it packaged into a killer knit.”

This week's episode is brought to you by Dough, a one stop shop to discover products by women-owned brands. As a member, you'll unlock thousands of dollars in discounts and drive your purchase power back into the hands of women.

Get your exclusive 50% off and become a Dough member today!

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In episode 183, Kestrel welcomes Megan Villa, the cofounder and creative content director of Svn Space, to the show. A female-focused multimedia platform, Svn Space is dedicated to educating the mainstream on the lifestyle benefits of Hemp, and how the plant can feed you, house you, clothe you, heal you and beautify you.

“We were kind of dumbfounded when we realized how incredible hemp is — you know, it has over 25,000 known uses. Like our motto is: hemp is a plant that can feed you, house you, clothe you and heal you, which is pretty incredible that one plant can do all of that.” -Megan Villa, Cofounder + Creative Content Director of Svn Space On this week’s show, Megan breaks down more on why she and her cofounders are pushing to rebrand hemp, and give it a modern facelift. On their platform, they strive to showcase clear, easy-to-digest information, in an effort to “reverse stigmas, reveal the truth, and modernize the perception of this often-misunderstood plant”.

In addition to sharing some of the 25,000 known uses of the hemp plant, Megan clears the air on some of the confusion around hemp and CBD when it comes to labeling amidst today’s minimally regulated space.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• The hemp plant has 25,000 known uses
• “CBD: Isolate, Broad Spectrum, Full Spectrum. What’s the Difference?”
• “How To Read A Certificate Of Analysis” (COA)
• “Hemp is a bioaccumulator, so when it grows, it sucks all of the toxins and heavy metals out of the soil and into the plant, so that potentially can go into the product, so that’s why it’s of dire importance that hemp is grown organically and without chemicals.”
• Jungmaven, one of the pioneers in hemp clothing
• Brianna of ANACT Towels + hemp farming in Florida — listen to our show with her here >
• BMW uses hemp in the interior for their i3 electric car
• Hempcrete, a sustainable building material
• Wholistic Research & Education Foundation, dedicated to exploring the health benefits of CBD-rich therapeutics through funding medical and clinical research

This week's episode is brought to you by Dough, a one stop shop to discover products by women-owned brands. As a member, you'll unlock thousands of dollars in discounts and drive your purchase power back into the hands of women.

Get your exclusive 50% off and become a Dough member today!

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In episode 182, Kestrel welcomes Brian Linton, the founder of United By Blue, to the show. A sustainable apparel brand, United By Blue removes one pound of trash from U.S. oceans and waterways for every product sold.

“This year, we’ll have sold over a million products for the first time, and we’ll pick up, therefore, over a million pounds of trash next year.” -Brian Linton, Founder of United By Blue On this week’s show, Brian shares more on what led him to have such an interest in ocean conservation from a young age. Turns out, he wasn’t hanging out on the beach, hiking in the woods, or spending tons of time outdoors — he was spending time in his bedroom with his 30 fish tanks, learning about the importance of clean water for their survival.

Kestrel and Brian also talk about how much United By Blue has evolved over the last decade since they launched, and what they are focusing on moving forward. One of UBB’s newest initiatives is the #QuitSingleUsePlastic pledge, where they are working to remove plastic from their supply chain, including poly bags, bubble wrap sleeves, fabric roll packaging and more.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• UBB has removed over 2 million pounds of trash from oceans and waterways through their 1 for 1 pledge to shoppers (1 product purchased = 1 pounds of trash removed)

• QuitSingleUse Pledge

• BisonShield Collection, outerwear and accessories made with salvaged American Bison fiber
• Ethical manufacturing at UBB is just as critical as the materials they use — “We accomplish this by partnering with factories that hold the highest standards for facilities and personnel, with the third-party certifications to back it up.”
• UBB on Instagram >

This week's episode is brought to you by Dough, a one stop shop to discover products by women-owned brands. As a member, you'll unlock thousands of dollars in discounts and drive your purchase power back into the hands of women.

Get your exclusive 50% off and become a Dough member today!

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In episode 181, Kestrel welcomes New York-based author, journalist, and expert on consumer culture, fast fashion, sustainability and labor rights, Elizabeth Cline, back to the show. You may already know of Elizabeth from her widely read book, Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion; and she recently released a follow-up book called The Conscious Closet: A Revolutionary Guide to Looking Good While Doing Good.

“The book in a lot of ways is very informed by moving away from fast fashion — so, really remembering that clothing is not a disposable good, because it just requires too many resources and too much energy to create.” - Elizabeth Cline, Author of Overdressed + The Conscious Closet On this week’s show, Elizabeth shares with us what she’s been working on, as well as her perspective on how much the fashion industry has shifted, since the last time she was on the show, almost 4 years ago.

Kestrel + Elizabeth dive into some of the inspiration and details about her new book, The Conscious Closet. For Elizabeth, a lot of what drove the direction for her new book was her education on the secondhand market globally, and how clothing cannot be considered a disposable product.

Also, in this chat, Elizabeth reveals some of her favorite ways to personally build a conscious closet.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “I understand the power of personal style because of conscious fashion, not in spite of it.”
• “And over time, it became more about, ‘wait — if we question the industrial food system, then the result of that, is that we also get to rebuild our food culture,’ and that is what’s happening with fashion — we are deciding as a community that clothing can be about more than mindless consumption and chasing the lowest price and buying whatever companies tell us to buy.”
• The Buyerarchy Of Needs by Sarah Lazarovic
• Some of Elizabeth’s favorite places to shop secondhand online:
  Poshmark, thredUp + The RealReal
• LA FRIENDS | Get Tickets for The Conscious Closet event featuring Elizabeth Cline at The Helms Design Center on October 27th from 2-4pm

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In episode 180, Kestrel welcomes Kat + Ryan Huston. the cofounders of Huston Textile Company, to the show. With a focus on making high quality, small-batch cloth, Huston Textile Company uses vintage American-made machines in their manufacturing process.

“The main concept for me, at least as a kid, that I took away was — you can’t expect to have a manufacturing job in the U.S. if you’re constantly buying things that are manufactured outside of the U.S.” - Ryan Huston, Cofounder of Huston Textile Company On this week’s show, Kat and Ryan share more on their backstory, and how anticipating the birth of their first child was what instigated them to go down this path of manufacturing textiles in the United States. They also explain more on the sorts of challenges they face on a regular basis, going against the grain, and using vintage machines.

For Kat + Ryan, the goal is the build out an entirely local / region textile chain from the fiber to the finished textile, and while they are able to source some fibers in the U.S. currently, they are consistently working further toward this big dream.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• The closing of Cone Mills, an article about this in Men’s Journal
• Huston Textile Company’s fabrics >
• Factory Tours at Huston Textile Company >
• Videos on Huston Textile Company’s YouTube channel >

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In episode 179, Kestrel welcomes Maya Spaul Johnson, the Vice President of Apparel and Home Goods at Fair Trade USA, to the show. Certifying and promoting fair trade products, Fair Trade USA enables sustainable development and community empowerment by cultivating a more equitable global trade model that benefits farmers, workers, fishermen, consumers, industry, and the earth.

“I joined Fair Trade in 2004 — like 7% of people knew what Fair Trade was in the surveys we would do and the marketing testing, and now we’re over 60% of people in North America recognize that Fair Trade label.” - Maya Spaul, VP of Apparel and Home Goods at Fair Trade USA On this week’s show, Maya shares more on her background and how ethnobotany eventually led her to Fair Trade. She also guides us through a bit of history on Fair Trade USA, and how much the organization has grown and evolved over the last 21 years.

Also, Maya shares more on where we are at today with shopper recognition of the Fair Trade label. Kestrel + Maya talk about how bigger, so-called mainstream brands are now offering Fair Trade certified products today. Kestrel asks Maya whether she believes these brands are testing the waters with Fair Trade for their shoppers, or if they are truly in it for the long haul.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Ethnobotany, what Maya originally studied / is trained in; it’s basically the study of people and their relationship to plants and agricultural systems
• Over Fair Trade USA’s 21 years in operation, companies have contributed over $500 million back to families in 72 countries that grow or produce these products
• About 40 million certified products made in Fair Trade factories have been sold
• At the end of last year (2018), about $11 million dollars in additional income had actually gone back to the factories
• “You know, the retail landscape is changing so fast, and what I am seeing is that the companies that are investing in sustainability, they’re investing in a better product, in an innovative product — they are winning.”
• We Wear Fair Trade campaign lookbook, styled by Rachel Wang
• Explore products that are Fair Trade certified >

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In episode 178, Kestrel welcomes Tina Hedges, the founder of LOLI Beauty, to the show. Short for “Living Organic Loving Ingredients,” LOLI is the first ZERO Waste beauty brand that is completely waterless and uses food grade reusable containers and compostable plastic to package their products.

“I had a crisis of consciousness. I said to myself, wow — for 15 years, in the big corporate beauty world, my whole job was to come up with ideas of products, develop them, position them, and convince you that this was the holy grail, and then whatever ingredient I was talking about in that product was going to transform your skin and your life.” - Tina Hedges, Founder of LOLI Beauty On this week’s show, Tina shares more on her background in the corporate beauty industry, as well as how growing up in the Blue Mountains of Jamaica influenced her beliefs around the ingredients we use in products.

She also shares more on what led her to build LOLI, and what she felt like was missing from the mainstream beauty market. For LOLI, less is more when it comes to products (they build products for multiple purposes), and their packaging is built on a foundation of sustainability and asking a ton of questions.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Most beauty brands out there are making their products of 80-95% water while creating tons of waste along the way.
• In the beauty industry, the packaging usually costs more than what’s in the actual product.
• “192 billion beauty packages end up in landfills a year.”
• LOLI’s Plum Elixir — “the ultimate multitasker” — it replaces your moisturizer, your serum, you can use it on your face and your hair, your lips, your neck, your nails.
• MadeSafe, certification body that LOLI uses to certify all of their ingredients and products
• LOLI’s Date Nut Brûlée — “miracle melting balm” — can be a solid oil cleaner, works like an aquaphor or vaseline, can minimize scars or stretch marks, or be used for chapped lips and elbows
• Tina’s top go-to products: Chamomile Lavender Water + Plum Elixir
• From the intro — “25 Of The Funniest Signs From The Global Climate Strike” via Reconsidered Newsletter

CURIOUS TO TRY LOLI?

Tina has offered you 20% OFF your first purchase.
Use the code CONSCIOUS20

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In episode 177, Kestrel welcomes Elizabeth Paton, a reporter for The New York Times Styles section, to the show. Covering the fashion and luxury sectors in Europe, Lizzie’s writing focuses on business, tech and sustainability, along with Fashion Week coverage from London, Milan and Paris.

“For me, it’s about being fair in my reporting, but it’s also about not being afraid of blowback from a brand for writing the truth.” - Elizabeth Paton, Reporter For New York Times Style On this week’s show, Lizzie shares more on her background, and how she originally planned to be a lawyer, but the recession among other events led her to become a fashion journalist.

Kestrel + Lizzie also dive deeper into some of her articles on The New York Times, including her writing about whether using prison labor in fashion supply chains can be ethical, and her questions around the new Fashion Pact.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Vanessa Friedman, Fashion Director for The New York Times, who reached out to Lizzie about joining their team
• “The Biggest Fake News In Fashion”, one of The New York Times most successful stories last year, debunking the “fashion is the 2nd most polluting industry in the world” statement
• Extinction Rebellion, organized several events around London Fashion Week (an international movement that uses non-violent civil disobedience in an attempt to halt mass extinction and minimize the risk of social collapse)
• “Made On The Inside, Worn On The Outside” - story by Lizzie focused on fashion and prison labor
• Carcel, Danish company that uses prison labor, featured in Lizzie’s above article
• “Will A ‘Fashion Pact’ Make Fashion Greener?” - story by Lizzie on the unveiling of the new Fashion Pact at the end of August 2019
• 40% of consumers now consider the resale value of an item before buying it (via thredUp Resale Report 2019)
• "Fashionopolis" by Dana Thomas, Book Review by NPR, mentioned in introduction

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In episode 176, Kestrel welcomes Brianna Kilcullen, a sustainability and supply chain expert + the founder of ANACT, to the show. A brand new sustainable towel company, ANACT is all about taking simple acts to make an impact.

“I chose hemp because it has these natural performance features that don’t need any manipulation with putting a chemical or a treatment or a finish on it. And so it made sense to me to use earth’s natural resources to solve these problems.” - Brianna Kilcullen, Founder of ANACT On this week’s show, Brianna shares more on her journey into sustainability, and how she built her own role at Under Armour, to become the first full-time sustainability employee on their team.

She also walks us through the inspiration behind ANACT — basically, her search for a solution for smelly towels. :)

Brianna explains several of the superpowers of hemp, and where we are currently in the United States when it comes to the industrialization of hemp.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Fair Labor Association, the FLA believes that all goods should be produced fairly and ethically, and brings together universities, civil society organizations and companies - to find sustainable solutions to systemic labor issues
• Notre Dame + worker rights
• HEMP is biostatic, meaning it prevents the growth of microorganisms
• The average person uses a towel 10 times per day
• Hemp Farming Act Bill of 2018
• Hemp Bound by Doug Fine, book Brianna suggests
• 2014 Farm Act Bill, allowed universities to cultivate industrial hemp
• By purchasing one of ANACT’s towels, you save 526 days of drinking water.
• Support ANACT's Kickstarter here >

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In episode 175, Kestrel welcomes Sloane, the founder and makers behind Eliza Sloane Jewelry, to the show. Handcrafting jewelry for over 7 years, and collecting crystals and sea glass for over 20, Sloane is a master maker, and creates all of her cast pieces for Eliza Sloane Jewelry from recycled metals.

“I just think that not boxing ourselves in or pigeon-holing ourselves too much — that’s just what ultimate creative freedom is.” - Sloane, Founder + Maker Behind Eliza Sloane Jewelry On this week’s show, Sloane shares more of her journey, and how an internship sourcing vintage gems in New York City motivated her to build an Etsy shop, and eventually inspired her to start making her own jewelry.

Sloane dives into more on how surfing inspires her creative work, and vice versa — and how they seem to feed each other consistently, helping her maintain a fluidity in both her lifestyle and creative work.

Kestrel and Sloane also chat about the idea of scaling, how complicated it can be, and the challenges that come with it when you are the actual maker behind the brand.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Rio Grande, where Sloane sources all her recycled metals
• Esmeralda Turquoise Company, where Sloane sources turquoise
• American Gem Trade Association, promotes the highest ethical standards for gemstones
• “I don’t know, it’s just really hard to gracefully scale up, with keeping to your morals and your beliefs and your style.”
• EcoEnclose, sustainable packaging Sloane uses
• Trader Joe’s produce bags are actually compostable (more on their sustainability efforts in Food and Wine + Real Simple)
• Sloane's Instagram >

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In episode 174, Kestrel welcomes Rachel Faller, the founder of Tonlé, as well as Sreyoun, the General Manager of Tonlé’s production operations in Cambodia, to the show. A zero waste, ethical fashion brand, Tonlé is on a big mission, to reduce waste generated by larger factories and change the way business is done in the fashion industry.

“Lots of people define zero waste in different ways, and for us, it’s basically about reducing the waste that’s already being created in the fashion industry, and using every piece of our own waste.” - Rachel Faller, Founder of Tonlé On this week’s show, Rachel shares more on her journey, and how a Fulbright fellowship to Cambodia helped plant the seeds for her to build Tonlé.

Also, we explore more in depth what zero waste means to the brand, and how for Tonlé, it naturally overlaps with their approach to manufacturing, and addressing social issues.

Sreyoun, the General Manager of Tonlé’s production operations in Cambodia, also shares how she started working with Tonlé, originally as an accountant. She had the opportunity to move into other positions, learn a lot about the business and sustainable fashion, and now has moved into the General Manager role.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “Zero waste” at Tonlé
• Production practices at Tonlé
• Srey Oun Sweater, one of Rachel’s favorite styles

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In episode 173, Kestrel welcomes Ethan Song, the cofounder of Frank and Oak, to the show. Inspired by ethical and sustainable thinking and with an eye to the future, Frank And Oak has set out to create clothing that is made for good living.

“So I think that for us, the idea is actually to create a deeper relationship with our customers, and make sure that we really understand them before we create something.” On this week’s show, Ethan shares more on how his entrepreneurial dreams led him to the fashion industry, and how Frank and Oak was initially the response to he and his cofounder not being able to find brands that shared their values.

Also, Ethan dives into what sustainability really means to Frank and Oak, and how for them, it’s about: first —minimizing impact, second — restore.

Kestrel asks Ethan to comment on sustainability when it comes to subscription box services. For Ethan and Frank and Oak, they believe their subscription service can help them learn more about their shoppers, and in turn, produce more accurately, reducing waste.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• SeaCell, a new fabric that Frank and Oak recently launched in their collection
• StylePlan, Frank and Oak’s subscription box service
• Frank and Oak’s Circular + Hydro-Less Denim

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In episode 172, Kestrel welcomes Jen Long, the CEO and Creative Director of Noble Carriage, to the show. A thoughtfully curated store, Noble Carriage offers a collection of organic & sustainably made baby goods.

“I think as a new mom, you’re told that you need to buy all of these things — that you need all of these things to make raising your child easier or just to survive, and I don’t believe that. I think you need fewer, better things.” -Jen Long, CEO of Noble Carriage On this week’s show, Jen shares more on what led her to starting her own curated shop for little ones. She also talks about how she thinks sustainability as a lifestyle can really start with moms, as they are already tuned into starting fresh and doing whatever they can to provide a safe, healthy environment for their babies.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Watch more on Noble Carriage’s story >
• “You need to lead with good design — good design I think can change the world. I felt like that was what was missing, and I felt like I could bring that to this world.”
• Factory45, Jen worked with Shannon Lohr of Factory45 in the early development stages of her business
• Noble Journal, where Jen features Noble Babe Rituals and more

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In episode 171, Kestrel welcomes Anabel Maldonado, the founder of The Psychology of Fashion™, to the show. A platform that explores why we wear what we wear, and the relationships between emotions, personality and aesthetic, The Psychology of Fashion™ also examines current issues in the fashion industry through the lens of psychology.

“You know, if we get away from this sort of like trends just because, buy it because all these people have it — if we think about who we are, why we like what we like, the way that fashion actually can be powerful for us, I think we’re going to buy less but buy better, and invest in things because we’re sure.” -Anabel Maldonado, Founder of The Psychology of Fashion™ On this show, Anabel shares more on her background, and how she has fused her interests to build The Psychology Of Fashion™. When she realized she wanted to build this platform and write about these topics together, she started a research project, to develop a framework to better talk about fashion through the lens of psychology.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “We believe that personal style is not random. The clothes that feel best tap into our truest qualities, are a consequence of our different inner needs, and reflect our most deep-seated narratives about ourselves.”
• “6 Reasons Why Fashion Is Losing Its Appeal” on The Psychology Of Fashion
• Alain de Botton, writer and philosopher who has inspired Anabel
• “It’s funny because it’s not just about the optical effect or making an impression on others — it’s about triggering a certain mindset in yourself.”
• Enclothed Cognition: how clothes affect your cognitive process, anything cerebral (thinking, feeling, anything that happens in the brain)
• “Self knowledge is the antidote to mindless consumption.”
• Big 5 Personality Test
• PSYKHE, a new e-commerce platform Anabel is launching, that is powered by personality science, machine learning and the psychology of fashion.
• Article in the Washington Post Kestrel referred to, “Kamala Harris embraced black. That was both unremarkable and theatrically powerful.”

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In episode 170, Kestrel welcomes Nicole Rattner, the founder of Sourcery The Label, to the show. A brand focused on cleaning up fashion with beautifully designed, naturally sourced garments, Sourcery is known for their Innovative Machine Washable silk.

“I think it’s important that we start to offer the customer, the consumer, something that works for her too, and invite her into this world of sustainability through better functionality. So, for me, a washable silk kind of did both of those things.” -Nicole Rattner, Founder of Sourcery The Label On this week’s show, Nicole shares more on her past experiences working in design and textile development with larger brands like Victoria’s Secret, Polo Ralph Lauren, Urban Outfitters, Nordstrom and others. Through working on more of a global scale with these bigger brands, Nicole started to realize that, as the designer, she had a larger responsibility to start working to clean up fashion.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “60% of the clothing that hangs on the racks of major retailers is made of polyester, a petroleum-based synthetic fabric.”
• “First and foremost, I believe we have to start focusing on natural materials. I really believe the future of fashion is going to be in innovative takes on those natural materials.”
• “Silk is such an under-appreciated and underexposed product.”
• Vogue article mentioned in the intro — “As Zara Announces Its Latest Sustainability Goals, Three of Its Design Team Weigh In on Going Slower and Creating Responsibly”

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In episode 169, Kestrel welcomes Adam Taubenfligel, the designer + creative director at Triarchy, to the show. An LA-based sustainable denim brand, Triarchy has a focus on conserving water, and reducing the massive consumption that is typically used to make jeans.

“We’re trying to be as sustainable as possible, but then, if we bring something to market that’s not giving you those things you love about the jeans that hold you in and do all this stuff, then they won’t sell, and then you’re not running a business. And so, you have to also remember this is a business and not a not-for-profit sustainable thing.” -Adam Taubenfligel, Creative Director + Cofounder of Triarchy On this week’s show, Adam shares more on what led him from film to fashion, and how he discovered the destructive nature of the apparel industry. He also elaborates on how he believes mindfulness could be the key to transforming the fashion industry. After being on a month-long Instagram cleanse, Adam describes the power in disconnecting, when it comes to enhancing our creativity and productivity.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Ozone Denim Systems
• e-flow Technology
• “When you go into every major department store in the world, it’s basically the same 5 brands that are on that wall. And so, I really do think there’s room on those walls for brands that really are dedicated to making the denim industry as good as possibly can be, and that maybe have the ability to do that because they aren’t juggernauts, yet.”

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In episode 168, Kestrel welcomes Erin Wallace, the brand director at thredUp, to the show. The world’s largest tech-powered resale marketplace, ThredUp’s platform gives you the chance to buy and sell high-quality secondhand clothes.

“I mean if everyone in the U.S. bought just 1 item used instead of new this year, it would save around 6 billion pounds of carbon emissions, which is the equivalent of taking half a million cars off the road for an entire year.” -Erin Wallace, Brand Director at thredUp On this week’s show, Erin shares more on how the secondhand world brought her into the sustainability conversation — she got her start working at Crossroads years ago. We also chat about the thrill of the hunt when it comes to secondhand, and how we both got into thrift shopping, in search of those extra special pieces that nobody else would have.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• thredUp processes up to 100,000 items per day
• At this time, thredUp lists over 2 million unique items on their website
• “We have definitely felt the Marie Kondo effect. We had an 80% spike in our clean-out kits, when ‘Tidying Up’ aired on Netflix.”
• Choose Used, thredUp’s partnership with Olivia Wilde + Conscious Commerce
• The Circular Fashion Fund, 501(c)(3) under thredUp, that invests in the next generation of non-profits and businesses pushing to transform the fashion industry
• thredUp’s 2019 Resale Report

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In episode 167, Kestrel welcomes Chrissie Lam, the founder of the Love Is Project, to the show. Connecting people around the world through a universal message of LOVE, the Love Is Project empowers artisan communities through an ethical supply chain.

“There’s sometimes a lot of negative media and portrayals of people, and I wanted to show the positivity and humanize people. And I think the word love is very universal and it connects people.” -Chrissie Lam, Founder of Love Is Project On this week’s show, Chrissie shares more on her past adventures, and how she came up with this random idea to ask people what love means to them while on a flight to Russia. This led her to continue asking this question to strangers all over the world throughout her travels.

Chrissie also shares more on how quickly the Love Is Project has evolved since the beginning. After starting in Kenya almost 5 years ago, the brand has now grown through their “pay it forward” social enterprise model, to be working with artisans in 10 different countries.

Additionally, Chrissie shares more background on her new book, The Greatest Love Story Ever Told.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• It Gets Better, organization that the Love Is Project has partnered with
• Stoneman Douglas High School, Love Is Project has partnered with them
• “Love is proportional to your will.” -an answer Chrissie got from a girl in North Siberia, early in asking the question throughout her travels
• Support the launch of Chrissie’s new book, The Greatest Love Story Ever Told, here >

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In episode 166, Kestrel welcomes Marielle Elizabeth, a body positive blogger, writer, photographer + self-proclaimed social media monster, to the show. A standout Instagrammer, Marielle is also known for her #slowfashionforall hashtag and blog Something Copper.

“The conversation of ethical fashion already comes from a place of immense privilege, and if we are not making space for everyone, we are failing.” -Marielle Elizabeth, Founder of Something Copper On this week’s show, Marielle shares more on her slow fashion journey, and how it was inspired at a young age by a cool, local shop in the town she grew up in.

She also dives into more on the idea that revolutions must be inclusive. As Marielle said in an interview with Clothed In Abundance, “Revolutions are for everyone and the biggest disservice we can do is to make it exclusive.”

Marielle reveals some of the results from the Size Inclusive Survey that she hosted through her Instagram in March 2019, and how she intends to utilize these numbers to help challenge the industry.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Something Copper, Marielle’s blog
• “We can’t have 300 people perfectly nailing ethical fashion, and the rest of the world completely closed off from it because they won’t hit that ‘perfect standard’.”
• “I think so much work needs to be done in activating change and helping encourage other people to change behavior from a positive standpoint vs a shaming standpoint — from a place of the most ethical wardrobe you have is the one you already own, and it’s just caring for it and mending it and reusing those pieces.”
• “I’m so passionate about calling someone in vs calling someone out.”
• “I also think ethical fashion / sustainable fashion has a long way to go in terms of calling people into the revolution vs shaming them for already not doing better.”
• “For me, one of my biggest fears is that if brands keep misappropriating this term, and saying size inclusive when it’s maybe only going up to a size 16, people that are larger than that will get frustrated and assume that they have no place in ethical fashion, and then will stop trying.”
• Findings from Marielle’s Size Inclusive Survey —
  (responses from over 3,000 people)
• 53% of responses said that to be '“size inclusive” you need to be above a size 22
• 41% of responses said that to be “size inclusive” you need to be at least up to a size 22
• So 94% of the survey results say you need to carry at least up to a size 22 to be considered
  “size inclusive”
• Some of Marielle’s favorite brands —
  Elizabeth Suzann
  Sotela
  Block Shop Textiles
  State The Label
  Beaton Linen
  The Perennial Closet
  Hackwith Design House Basics
  Alice Alexander — listen to our show with founder Mary Alice >
• “I think that a big part of clothing waste right now is coming from people hoping one day something will fit properly or settling.”
• Marielle's Instagram >

This week's show is brought to you by ANA LUISA JEWELRY. Explore more about the brand + get your exclusive discount code here >

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In episode 165, Kestrel welcomes Brendan Synnott, the CEO of Pact Apparel, to the show. Offering head-to-toe basics, Pact believes in crafting clothing differently: sustainable materials, kindness toward humans and the softest clothing you’ll want on every layer.

“If I wanted to change everything in my wardrobe — if I just changed everything to organic cotton, how much more is that really going to cost me? And it turns out it’s not that much, and what impact does that make.” -Brendan Synnott, CEO of Pact On this week’s show, Brendan shares more on what originally got him interested in the health movement, and how impactful it was for him to see his grandfather shift his diet after being diagnosed with heart disease.

Also, Brendan shares more on Pact’s supply chain, and how they grow, spin, knit and sew their organic cotton garments in Fair Trade factories in India.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Bear Naked, granola company Brendan built and sold to Kellog’s
• Evol Foods, another food brand that Brendan built, to create healthier frozen food options
• Greenpeace Exposes Hazardous Chemicals in Popular Fashion

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In episode 164, Kestrel welcomes Cayley Pater, the founder of Made Trade, to the show. An online marketplace, Made Trade curates artfully-designed, ethically-sourced goods that put people and our planet first, and they are on a mission to become the ultimate destination for conscious consumers who love design.

“We love to shoot on bright, fun colors and to celebrate diversity in that way. Color is a big part of cultural representation.” -Cayley Pater, Founder of Made Trade On this week’s show, Cayley shares more on her background and what got her interested in the sustainability, and heritage conversations. Turns out, for her — language was her entry point. Having studied linguistics, and speaking multiple languages, Cayley was exposed to the power of sustainable business through some of her experiences abroad, that her interest in language originally connected her to.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Symbology, Cayley’s friend was launching this company nearby in Jaipur, while she was studying in India
• Dr. Habashi, professor at University of Oklahoma, Cayley worked with her and her nonprofit Child’s Cup Full in the past, as well as helped them launch the Darzah brand, focused on Palestinian embroidery
• Masaya & Co, furniture brand Made Trade carries, that started as a reforestation project in Nicaragua (for every piece they sell, they plant 100 trees because reforestation is their top priority)
• [from the introduction] “What The Sustainable Movement Is Missing About Privilege” from i-D
• Cayley wants to offer you $20 off your your first order at Made Trade.
  Head to this link to get your $20 OFF code >

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In episode 163, Kestrel welcomes Mary Alice Duff, the founder of Alice Alexander, to the show. A size-inclusive, ethically and sustainably made womenswear brand, Alice Alexander is on a mission to radically change the fashion industry to one that is inclusive of ALL BODIES and is respectful of people and the planet.

“It’s still the vision and our mission — when someone is shopping on our website, that they feel seen. And to not get the feeling that I got when I went shopping before I had my own brand, and all I saw were thin white women whose bodies looked nothing like mine, and it was very clear that this isn’t the place for me.” -Mary Alice Duff, Founder Alice Alexander On this week’s show, Mary Alice shares more on what led her to quit her reliable job as a social worker, and instead start a fashion brand. She also takes us back and shares more on the early stages of Alice Alexander, which until last year, involved working out of her home — cutting and sewing with her tiny team on her family’s kitchen table.

Mary Alice explains more about why Made To Order was always the only option for her and her brand. Also, Kestrel + Mary Alice dive into more on how sizing and fit issues are interconnected to the sustainability conversation.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• The average American woman today is a size 16-18.
• The plus size market is valued at $40 billion dollars, and has only reached half of its potential.
• “If we can make leather out of pineapples, we can certainly dress someone who’s a size 18.”
• 11 Honoré, a size-inclusive shopping site that does the patterning and product development for luxury designers.
• “Inclusivity is trending hard. And on one hand, that’s great. On the other, some of the big issues I’m seeing is that brands are jumping into extended sizing and inclusivity without actually understanding the perspective of living in a bigger body.”
• “I don’t know if there is a finite number, but I definitely think you can’t call yourself inclusive if you’re not going up to at least a 4X — you know a size 26 / 28.”
• Mary Alice’s story on Instagram, that outlines more on the history of “sizing”
• “How To Talk To Your Friends and Family About Sustainability” by Leah Thomas on The Good Trade (mentioned in introduction of show)

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In episode 162, Kestrel welcomes Sarah Spellings, a fashion writer for New York Magazine’s The Cut. Having been featured on NPR’s All Things Considered and CBS New York, among others, Sarah’s recent writing about sustainable fashion and going fast fashion free in 2018 has generated an array of interest.

“A lot of my friends were like, ‘you’re no fun to shop with anymore.’ And she was like, ok, it’s the end of the year — basically, are you going to be fun again? And I was like ‘no, it’s a lifestyle change.’ And that’s what I realized is that it is more of a lifestyle change.” -Sarah Spellings, writer for New York Magazine’s The Cut On this week’s show, Sarah shares more on what she learned throughout her fast fashion free year. She talks about how she started the pledge writing about “what she was wearing instead”, but quickly realized that it wasn’t actually about buying — it was more about not buying, buying less, reusing and recycling.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “I Gave Up Fast Fashion. Here’s What I’m Wearing Instead.”
• “What I Learned When I Gave Up Fast Fashion”
• “Your Questions About Food and Climate Change, Answered: How To Shop, Cook and Eat In A Warming World” on the New York Times
• “People are more inclined to read a sustainability story when it feels personal to them. I think that my advice for people wanting to write about sustainability in mainstream media is to break it down and make it personal.”
• Maggie Marilyn, made the pajamas Sarah wore to a Met Gala event
• Sarah's personal website

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In episode 161, Kestrel welcomes Brittany Sierra, the founder of the Sustainable Fashion Forum, to the show. A PR and marketing strategist by trade, Brittany has a deep passion for creating community and building connections, and she just recently produced the 3rd annual Sustainable Fashion Forum in Portland.

“You know, when I created the event, it wasn’t as me, this expert, who knew so much and wanted to share it with everyone. It was more of me wanting to create a place where if you’re interested in this, you can come and learn from people who I felt were the experts.” -Brittany Sierra, Founder of The Sustainable Fashion Forum On this week’s show, Brittany shares more on her background in PR and marketing, and how that led her to working with fashion designers and creatives. After going to a sustainable fashion show event in Portland, Brittany got really interested in the idea of sustainable fashion, and so in order to learn more about it, she ended up creating an event — The Sustainable Fashion Forum.

Probably not what most people would think to do when they’re craving more knowledge, but Brittany had a vision, and SFF has now hosted three annual events, and are currently hearing up for a Pop-Up Tour, launching early June 2019.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Sustainable Fashion Forum Instagram
• Sustainable Fashion Forum Pop-Up Tour
• ** mentioned in introduction (article Kestrel was interviewed for)
  “Are Brands Serious Enough About Their Sustainability Models?” on Sourcing Journal

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In episode 160, Kestrel welcomes Nathalia JMag, the designer behind her eponymous label, to the show. Nathalia is a luminary at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum and was part of Project Runway Season 15. In addition to running her made-to-order brand Nathalia JMag, she is currently finishing her Masters degree at RISD in Nature Culture and Sustainability.

“Overall, fashion needs to be more inclusive, but because we’re doing sustainable fashion, we should be ahead of the game. Like we’re already ahead of the game in fashion, so we need to get ahead even more in the sense that we need to be more inclusive of everyone.” -Nathalia JMag, designer On this week’s show, Nathalia shares more on her background, how she got exposed to sustainable fashion, her time at Project Runway, and what’s driving her as a designer today.

We talk more about how she brings upcycling, zero waste and made-to-order approaches into her design process. Also, Nathalia shares her thoughts on whether today’s shopper is gaining more patience to be able to “wait” and “appreciate” made to order garments.

When it comes to what’s currently holding the sustainable fashion industry back, Nathalia says it’s inclusivity. “It’s not sustainable if it’s not inclusive. And how are we going to get more people interested in what we’re talking about if they don’t see themselves represented?”

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• RISD’s Nature–Culture–Sustainability Studies MA program: the program Nathalia is finishing this year
• “When you’re designing and zero waste garment, you don’t start with a sketch like you usually do. You kind of just let the fabric do its thing and you figure out what you can do with the fabric, which it’s a different creative process.”
• “I was actually really upset because I finally found the industry I want to be in, but then it turns out it kind of goes against all of my values and morals.”
• “It’s not sustainable if it’s not inclusive. And how are we going to get more people interested in what we’re talking about if they don’t see themselves represented?”

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In episode 159, Kestrel welcomes Diana Verde Nieto, the cofounder + CEO of Positive Luxury, to the show. Positive Luxury connects consumers that care with brands that care through their Butterfly Mark, which provides transparency of a brand's commitments to sustainability. Brands part of the Positive Luxury community include Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Gabriela Hearst, LVMH, and more.

“Sustainability for a long time has been something that runs vertically on the business, so like the CSR Department or the Sustainability Department. Really, it should ride diagonally across the business, so every part of the business should incorporate the principles of sustainable development, in terms of how it operates.” -Diana Verde Nieto , Cofounder of Positive Luxury On this week’s show, Diana shares more on what led her to want to build Positive Luxury. She also provides insight into the power of the “trickle-down-effect” and how luxury fashion can be a driving force to shift the industry at large.

Additionally, Diana shares more on what the assessment process looks like for brands to receive the Butterfly Mark, and the reality that they turn down 30-40% of the brands that apply.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Karen Hanton: the founder of toptable.com, Diana’s mentor + the cofounder of Positive Luxury
• Harlem Brundtland, who served as the Prime Minister of Norway, defined the term sustainable development back in the 1980s, as “meeting the needs of today, without compromising the needs of future generations.”
• The Butterfly Mark — Positive Luxury assesses companies based on 5 principles: governance, social and environmental frameworks, community investment, and innovation. Brands are asked to be reassessed every 2 years.
• “We turn down probably about 30-40% of brands that come to us.”
• “I think it’s the aspiration. Because as a consumer, as a person, you want to buy better. You want to buy things that represent your values. You want to buy things that make you feel sexy. You want to buy things that make you feel good. But also, you want to be able to tell a story over and above a product. It’s like what’s the story? Another handbag? Well, really? Another pair of shoes? It’s like — why is it special, why is it different? I think the world is changing into really having sustainability as a selling point and a USP of the brand.”
• “Companies cannot afford to not think about the effects of climate within their brands.”

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In episode 158, Kestrel welcomes Jordan Nodarse, the founder and Creative Director of Boyish Jeans, to the show. While Jordan recently founded Boyish in 2018, he’s been around the denim scene for years — having been behind the launch of Reformation’s first denim collection, as well as Revolve’s GRLFRND denim.

“I always tell people — it’s all about progress, not perfection. You’re never going to be 100% sustainable. Even when you feel like you’re 100% sustainable, you can always be more efficient. And the environmental impacts are always going to be evolving to become better and better, so you always have to evolve.” -Jordan Nodarse, Founder of Boyish On this week’s show, Jordan shares more on what first got him into denim — trying to make his own jeans. Being a musician at the time, Jordan wanted to have jeans that looked more like Bryce Springsteen in the era of bootcut, so he cut out the inseam of vintage jeans and altered them to get the look he was going for.

Kestrel + Jordan also discuss more of the intricacies of what sustainability means to Boyish, how it’s always evolving, and how important it is for Jordan to use his brand to help educate shoppers.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Refibra by Lenzing, fabric that Boyish uses
• ZDHC (Zero Discharge Of Hazardous Chemicals); company Boyish works with that audits them regularly
• OEKO-TEX; Boyish works with them to help certify their factory
• Intertek; Boyish works with them for auditing
• The HIGG Index
• BCI Cotton + GOTS Certified Organic Cotton, Boyish has their mill only purchase one or the other, to ensure their cotton is traceable. They also request transactional certificates for everything, and do their best to buy consistently from their suppliers.
• PP (potassium permanganate): one of the harsh chemicals often used to distress denim. Jordan says it can easily be replaced by using natural cold water reactive enzymes.
• Tonello, more sustainable garment-finishing machines that Boyish uses
• Solar Sister, nonprofit Boyish donates to through 1% For The Planet
• Stashers, cool company that makes a silicone-based replacement for ziplock bags

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In episode 157, the first show of Season 4, Kestrel welcomes Ayesha Barenblat, the founder of Remake, back to the show, along with Sajida Silva, a student at California College of the Arts, and one of the future designers who was chosen to join Remake for their Made In Mexico trip. A non-profit that believes that fashion can be a force for good, Remake makes the invisible women who power the fashion industry visible through firsthand documentary footage and stories.

“That’s the thing, you know — people don’t empower people, the women we met are plenty empowered. What they need is for the system to stop oppressing them.” -Ayesha Barenblat, Founder of Remake On this week’s show, Kestrel reconnects with Sajida + Ayesha, who she joined last October on Remake’s trip to Mexico, as part of their documentary series.

Ayesha sheds light on how distinct this trip was for Remake, considering that so many of the students and influencers spoke Spanish, as well as how we had to meet with the women garment workers outside of a factory setting. Due to not being able to gain access, Remake brought the women from different parts of the country to Mexico City to a safe house to connect with us.

Sajida shares more on the layers of why this experience was so powerful to her, and how inspired she was by the fierceness of the women garment workers we connected with.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “Our approach is so different [from auditing processes], and there’s something the industry can really learn from that. It’s not transactional and extraction in value. We were there to bear witness and really, to listen.”
• Humans Of Fashion on Remake: I Am Oliva
• Humans Of Fashion on Remake: I Am Reina
• “I think Reina said it best when she said, ‘the price of what you pay for a garment reflects the exploitation.’”
• “The more we center this conversation on women on either end of the supply chain — shopper + maker — rising up to ask for dignity, living wages, protections; that’s a very different conversation than sweatshop workers far away that have nothing to do with my life struggles.”
• Made In Mexico Garment Workers Speak Out For Women’s Rights

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In episode 156, Kestrel welcomes Garik Himebaugh, the founder at Eco-Stylist, to the show. An online marketplace for eco-conscious and ethically made men’s clothing, Eco-Stylist was founded to search for an answer to the question, “can sustainable be dapper?”

“I think you can create a really great outfit with ethical and sustainable options only, and then the options just keep getting better — so that’s an inspiring and positive trend as well.” -Garik Himebaugh In this week’s show, Garik shares more on what led him from fashion tech toward a more ethical and sustainable direction. He also reveals some of his favorite brands in the sustainable menswear realm. It’s motivating to hear that Garik does believe that sustainable fashion can be dapper.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Adelante Shoe Company, one of the first brands that truly inspired Garik
• Vustra, they make more colorful men’s button-up shirts
• Outerknown, a brand Garik suggests, listen to hear their episode on Conscious Chatter here >
• Z Shoes, vegan shoe brand Garik recommends
• Arvin Goods, brand Garik recommends for basics
• Zero Waste Daniel, cool brand that upcycles fabric scraps
• Nisolo, shoe brand Garik suggests for classic styles
• Brave Gentleman, brand Garik suggests for interesting vegan clothing like biker jackets
• What are the best ways to repurpose your old clothes? on Eco-Stylist

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In episode 155, Kestrel welcomes Jayde Scukovic, the creative and influencer behind Jayde Archives, to the show. Originally from Australia, Jayde is now based in Switzerland, and she shares travel diaries, light packing guides, and eco living ideas through her blog + Instagram Jayde Archives. She’s also a self-proclaimed #ProudOutfitRepeater and capsule wardrobe addict.

“The less I have, the more I cherish those individual items, and I really love that relationship I’m forming with my wardrobe and my clothing — and even myself. Since I’ve started taking things more slowly, everything feels a lot more positive.” -Jayde Scukovic, Founder of Jayde Archives In this week’s show, Jayde shares more on her background and how she made her way into the blogging / influencer world. She also shares more on why she loves capsule wardrobes, how less is more, and her push to celebrate proud outfit repeating.

For Jayde, the restraints of space + finances first led her toward capsule wardrobes, and that direction helped inspire her to ask more questions about sustainability as well.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “To be totally honest with you, the main reason I started my capsules was to help curb my shopping addiction.”
• Jayde’s Capsule Wardrobe Pros + Cons —
  Pros: saves money, is reducing clutter, saves us time getting dressed
  Cons: if you don’t plan it out properly, it can feel restrictive
• “If there is one thing that has always given me an icky feeling about the blogging/influencer industry it’s the expectation to be unboxing and wearing something new on a weekly basis. And the influence this then has on others and how they consume fashion.”

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In episode 154, Kestrel welcomes Kristen Morabito, the Creative Director of Mohinders, to the show. A small business based in San Francisco + India, Mohinders uses an heirloom process to make their traditionally-tanned leather shoes, and invests in equity and collaboration.

“I think one of the key markers of modern, factory chromium tanning is that you can tan a hide of leather in 1 day, and this process that is used in India that the shoemakers engage with takes about 30 days. And it’s just a lot more similar to how leather was made maybe 500 to 1,000 years ago, compared to how leather would be made now.” -Kristin Morabito, Creative Director of Mohinders In this week’s show, Kristen shares more on her background in studio art and writing, and how she originally connected with Michael, the founder of Mohinders, as a freelance designer.

Also, she explains more on the inspiration behind Mohinders, and how Michael was inspired to start the brand after purchasing a pair of shoes in a market in India. These shoes became his go-to beloved pair, and led him on a journey back to India to try to find the makers behind his shoes.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Mohinders’ tanning process is done using a specific nut and tree bark from the Acacia tree as the tanning agents; both are sourced locally and regionally to where they manufacture in India.
• Rachel Cory, friend of Kristen’s who is a shoemaker
• Leather Working Group, certification body focused on improving environmental stewardship
• Mochis, shoe repair shops throughout India

OTHER RESOURCES KRISTEN SUGGESTS:

• The Responsible Leather Roundtable, an offshoot of Textile Exchange
  ”I was introduced to them by a friend at Coyuchi, and have called into their monthly Responsible Leather Roundtables.”
• Hollow Bone, who does traditional hand-tanned sheep hides in California
• Brittany Cole Bush of Shepherdess, here's an interview about her work

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In episode 153, Kestrel welcomes Roxy Ortiz, the founder of Elevated Layers, to the show. A community that combats the textile waste epidemic, Elevated Layers offers cost-effective and ethical solutions that benefit influencers and high-end fashion designers.

“Most of these young creators just don’t have access or they can’t afford it or they’re going into debt just to stay relevant on social media. There’s all these hidden problems that I needed to solve, and bring to the surface.” -Roxy Ortiz, Founder of Elevated Layers In this week’s show, Roxy shares more on her fashion background and how she originally wanted to be a shoe designer. She ended up working in retail and then making her own way as a stylist. It was in the stylist / content creation world that Roxy came up with the concept for Elevated Layers.

So what is Elevated Layers? It functions as an annual subscription model for content creators and now agencies as well, where subscribers get access to desirable streetwear brands to use as tools for their content, so they’re able to tag these designers and utilize these pieces, and then send the styles back into the cycle.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Content creators today spend around $90-$150 weekly on cheap fashion to stay quote unquote relevant on social media.
• “To me, clothing should be a tool and it should be accessible and it should be something that adds value to whatever project you’re trying to create.”
• “82% of people will actually listen to an influencer review versus a brand or somebody who has credibility. It’s insane the power of influence.”
• "I really believe this is the next layer of the sharing economy."
• “I think just applying moods and feelings to what we do in our everyday lives will probably start to impact change.”

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In episode 152, Kestrel welcomes Jenny Silbert, the founder of Rewilder, to the show. An LA-based brand, Rewilder is focused on the following tenants: salvage materials, local production, zero waste, good design, ethical production and high quality.

“I have always been interested in upcycling, like from the time I was a kid it was something that I would do. My parents would be driving and I would be like ‘stop the car! I need to pick up that chair or I need to pick up that table that was on the side of the street.’ ” -Jenny Silbert, Founder of Rewilder In this week’s show, Jenny shares more on her journey into sustainable fashion, from originally starting in architecture. For several years, Jenny’s architectural career was focused on materials development and architectural problem solving.

Through her work, she discovered how much industrial trash was building up in, for instance, the automotive and beer industries. This helped spark her and her cofounder’s concept to utilize this waste — beautiful, durable, unique material — and repurpose it into bag designs.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “The unique thing about fashion is that is really touches everybody.”
• “We’re in this interesting time where it’s very clear that we have a gigantic trash problem and it impacts everyone on the earth but the action - like changing people’s behaviors is still really really difficult.”
• For Jenny, using pre-consumer industrial waste has proven the most efficient for Rewilder. Because often, when something is already constructed, it’s so durable that the deconstruction and reconstruction makes it cost-prohibitive to utilize.
• Rewilder will be launching an entirely zero waste bag in the coming months.

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In episode 151, Kestrel welcomes Gitte Dalberg-Larsen, the founder of Organicup, to the show. The award-winning menstrual cup, Organicup helps replace pads and tampons, and reduce waste connected to women’s health.

“We are on a mission to improve menstrual health on a personal and cultural and global level.” -Gitte Dalberg-Larsen, Founder of Organicup In this week’s show, Gitte shares more on what led her to build a menstrual cup company, and what she has learned along the way. Additionally, she provides more of an in-depth look at how much period waste each menstruating woman generates throughout her life.

Gitte + Kestrel also dive into how society historically has aligned women’s health, sexuality, and menstruation with taboo topics, and how we can continue to further challenge these systemic norms.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• The first menstrual cup was actually introduced in the 1930s, but then it never caught on or took off.
• “For an average woman, we use approximately 11,000 disposable pads and tampons in our lifetime of having our period. So, if you multiple that number by all the women on this planet, it’s really a substantial amount of waste.
• ”In the US alone, 12 billion pads and 7 million tampons pollute the landfills annually.”
• “The time it takes for a tampon or a pad to degrade in a landfill is centuries longer than the lifespan of the woman who’s throwing it out.”
• Period Poverty: a lot of young girls and women cannot afford period products — the menstrual cup is one option to help reduce these costs — Organicup partners with several nonprofits in Europe and around the world to help get menstrual cups to women who need them.

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In episode 150, Kestrel welcomes Lisa Gralnek, a Brand & Strategy Executive, to the show. The Founder + Principal of LVG & Co, Lisa has worked with brands including Chobani, moo.com, adidas, IKEA, Walmart and more over the past decade.

“Authenticity really ties back to why you wake up in the morning - you know, what are your values, what’s your mission in life or your raison d'être as the French would say.” -Lisa Gralnek, Brand & Strategy Executive In this week’s show, Lisa shares more on her journey and what led her to have such a distinct interest in brand strategy and sustainability. She shares more on the idea of authenticity and its elevated importance amidst a time of disruption.

Kestrel + Lisa explore some of today’s current buzzwords, and whether or not those are driven by brands, shoppers or both, and how potentially important they are in influencing our behavior.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Cleo Wade + Rupi Kaur, poets that connect on a deep level through Instagram.
• “It’s grow or die — especially if you’re a publicly traded company.”
• “If we’re talking about heart and soul, happiness and success and personal, I think profits with purpose is what I’d call it for business. You know - it’s not just about earnings or about creating shareholder value (as we’re taught to do in business school), but it’s really about doing right, and that means doing right by your people, doing right by the world’s people, doing right by the planet.”
• “How do we redefine success in business to really take care of our planet and our people, and not just our profits?”

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In episode 149, Kestrel welcomes Nivi Sreenivas Murthy, the founder of IKKIVI, as well as Meenal Gupta, one of the designers behind Twofold, to the show. A slow fashion platform, Ikkivi curates ethical and sustainable designers from India, and Twofold is one of their featured brands, a label that is a tribute to Indian craftsmanship.

“Young designers and independent designers in general do not have the resources to expand and grow their business to a global platform because at the end of the day, they are designers and the creatives behind these brands. So, I think it’s extremely important for platforms like IKKIVI to be able to communicate their stories and communicate their creative abilities to a global audience.” -Nivi Sreenivas Murthy, Founder of IKKIVI In this week’s show, Nivi and Meenal share each of their stories and how they became interested in slow fashion. Additionally, they share more on each of their work today, and how important they feel that it is to offer global shoppers access to slow fashion options.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “Right from when we are at that impressionable age as a teenager, we’re told by society and various people and various factors, and now especially with the internet, we’re told to be a certain way and told to dress a certain way, eat a certain way, behave a certain way. And I think now, as we age and mature, unless we take a step back and question these things, we’ll just be a stuck in a rut and just doing what we’ve been told.”
• Explore more about IKKIVI + their featured brands >
• Explore more about Twofold >

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In episode 148, Kestrel welcomes Belinda Kazanci, the founder + designer of Bel Kazan, to the show. A collection of globally-inspired, effortless pieces, Bel Kazan is designed with the modern woman in mind.

“And then I realized the only way I’m going to be able to do the kind of business I want to do is by having a factory that meets my standards —which were: open air, there’s a garden for people to eat in, it’s clean, we provide lunches. There were just certain standards I wanted to meet, and I knew I couldn’t do it by using somebody else’s factory.” - Belinda Kazanci, Founder of Bel Kazan In this week’s show, Belinda shares more on her backstory, how she grew up around textiles in Istanbul, Turkey, and how she originally got into fashion as a way to fund her musician life. Early in building her brand, Belinda realized that she needed to own her own factory to be able to make her business work. She purchased land and started building her own manufacturing facility in the second year of running her company, and at this point, has now owned her own factory in Bali for 15 years.

For Belinda, it was super important to be able to meet her deadlines for wholesale orders, as well as to offer responsible working conditions, which helped push her to build out her own production facility.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “Second year in, we started building our factory. I would say the third year of business, we had our own factory.”
• “I did not want anybody working in a position that wasn’t responsible for them - that wasn’t good for them.”
• When it comes to print designs, Belinda loves collaborating, and works with artists around the world to help develop her designs - many that she actually met through Instagram
• Hand printing + Batik: the two different print processes that Bel Kazan uses
• “Because everything we do is very traditional methods, if it rains, that creates an issue - we can’t really hang everything to dry because they don’t use machines to dry - the fabric hangs on these bamboo sticks. We do run into a lot of issues with weather, because it does rain a lot in Bali.”

__________

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In episode 147, Kestrel welcomes Mark Price, the CEO of Firewire, to the show. A former Rip Curl and Reef executive, Mark has over 35 years of surf industry experience and is helping push the boundaries of surfboard construction at Firewire.

“We’ve created a mindset where we want stuff all the time, and by definition - that can never be satisfied, so we’re basically creating a sick society that is never satisfied and is always looking for something that can never be fulfilled.” - Mark Price, CEO of Firewire Throughout the show, Mark shares more on what got him into surfing as a kid in South Africa, and how when it comes to the environmental movement, he believes a level of humility is key to bringing generations together and forging ahead.

“I think that my generation has to be careful of not lecturing the younger generation because we’ve figured out what’s wrong with the world and what needs to change. I think we can do that, but concurrent with that, we also have to be apologetic and humble for the fact that we’ve basically screwed things up.”

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Mark’s talk at Loyola Marymount University about sustainability, surf industry + eco boards
• The Gaia Concept, a holistic way of looking at the world
• The Ecology Of Commerce, book Mark read in the early ‘90s by Paul Hawken
• The materials Firewire used when launching emit 50% less VOCs than traditionally built surf boards.
• “We have reduced our waste per unit built by over 95% over the last 2 years.”
• Firewire owns + operates its own factory in Thailand, and they are currently close to becoming Fair Trade Certified
• More on Sustainability at Firewire

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In episode 146, Kestrel welcomes Taghrid Zorob, the founder + creative director of Rafa, to the show. A women’s luxury footwear collection, Rafa is hand-crafted by a small group of artisans in Los Angeles.

“We have to remember that we’re all humans and that there’s more to life than just stuff that we buy, and consuming should be something that adds value to our life.” - Taghrid Zorob, Founder + Creative Director of Rafa Throughout this chat, Taghrid shares more on what led her to want to build Rafa, especially a particular experience she had connecting with shoe makers in Los Angeles at her previous job. Additionally, she explains more on how she really wanted to infuse Los Angeles into her brand, as it had become a large part of her identity growing up in the city.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “When I started this company, I really wanted to create something that was quintessentially Los Angeles - I wanted to make something that was beautiful and incorporated all of the great things that we have here.”
• The vegan suede Rafa used is made using recycled PET, and is made of 80% recycled materials
• “I think a lot of people forget that all the things that we consume in our lives are made by humans.”
• “You have to think about fashion as a part of your personality - it’s not just stuff you put on your body, it’s how you view the world.”

EVENT ALERT FROM INTRO
The Conscious Loft, powered by Mochni, will be taking place in Berlin from January 15th-17th during Berlin Fashion Week. Learn more + get tickets here >

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In episode 145, Kestrel welcomes Carly Burson, the founder + CEO of Tribe Alive, to the show. Focused on investing in women globally, Tribe Alive makes sustainable women's apparel and accessories through building artistic collaborations around the world.

“A lot of women are employed through fashion, but the way I view the industry as it is today is that a lot of women are kept in poverty because of fashion.” -Carly Burson, Founder + CEO of Tribe Alive Throughout this chat, Carly shares more insight into what led her to build Tribe Alive, and how the adoption of her daughter was a massive part of shifting the direction of her career.

Additionally, she shares more on how Tribe Alive truly believes that women are the key to eradicating poverty.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Causebox, an order from them helped transform Tribe Alive from a side hustle to a main gig
• Nonprofits that Tribe Alive works with:
  Mi Esperanza in Honduras + Maya Traditions in Guatemala + Haiti Design Co in Haiti
• Tribe Alive’s artisan partners are 80% female, and all of their production managers are women
• Cuyana, a brand message Carly loves: “fewer better things"

This week's episode is sponsored by: The Minimalist Wardrobe, a platform that offers a source of ideas and inspiration to help you minimize your wardrobe and make more conscious clothing purchases.

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In episode 144, Kestrel welcomes Zinzi Edmundson, the editor + cofounder of Knit Wit Magazine, to the show. A website for fiber freaks, Knit Wit explores everything about fiber arts and their makers.

“Just like cutting out fast fashion and knowing about your materials and the process behind where your clothing is coming from, that’s equally as important with buying your materials for crafting.” -Zinzi Edmundson, Founder of Knit Wit Throughout this chat, Zinzi shares more on Knit Wit's recent shift from print to digital, and how listening to her readers was an integral piece of this decision.

Additionally, she shares more with us on which crafts are "all the rage" right now, and how even though there are trends in crafting, makers tend to not ditch the past trends when they find a new one - instead, they just add them to their fiber art arsenal.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Sashiko, Mend and Make New, article Kestrel wrote for Knit Wit about Jessica Marquez’s new book Make + Mend
• DMC embroidery thread
• Wool and the Gang x DMC Partnership
• What’s currently “trending” in the maker scene according to Zinzi?
  embroidery, needle tufting, rag rugs
• “That is very old vs new media - old media tells you what’s what and you’re like ok I guess you’re the authority - I will do that or I should like that - and then new media can kind of adapt and respond.”

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In episode 143, Kestrel welcomes Barrett Ward, the founder + CEO of ABLE, to the show. A lifestyle brand, ABLE is focused on ending generational poverty through providing economic opportunity for women.

“We also know that when a woman is empowered and given a job - this is a statistic, it’s a fact - that a woman has a far more significant impact in her community than does a man. If you want to have a serious impact on poverty in the world, the fashion world is an extraordinary place to start.” -Barrett Ward, Founder of ABLE In the introduction of this episode, Kestrel shares a bit of context as to what constitutes a living wage, according to The Clean Clothes Campaign.

A living wage is a human right. And as The Clean Clothes Campaign outlines, a living wage should be earned in a standard working week (no more than 48 hours) and allow a garment worker to be able to buy food for themself and their family, pay the rent, pay for healthcare, clothing, transportation and education and have a small amount of savings for when something unexpected happens.

Throughout this chat, Barrett shares more on his #PublishYourWages campaign, and how he believes exposing these numbers is the key to bringing higher accountability and to ensure workers are actually paid living wages.

Barrett also shares how ABLE plans to have nutritional-like labels on all of their garments within the next year, showcasing their lowest wages. For Barrett, the “lowest wages” is really significant, so shoppers can truly understand what they are supporting through their purchases.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Less than 2% of women in the global garment supply chain are actually being paid a living wage, highlighted in Fast Company article
• Amazon’s minimum wage issues in their fulfillment centers; an example Barrett brings up reminding us of the power consumers really have to influence change
• A hero of Barrett’s: Simone Cipriani, the Head of the Ethical Fashion Initiative of the International Trade Centre (ITC)'; Simone oversees the promotion of trade and incubation of creative micro-enterprises within marginalized communities in Africa and Haiti
• ABLE’s #PublishYourWages campaign

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In episode 142, Kestrel welcomes Holly Staves Olson, a marketing wizard + her cofounder of a new venture called Left Edit, to the show. A new direct-to-consumer womenswear brand for those who don’t want to sacrifice ethics for style, Left Edit builds essentials that make an impression.

“I think it’s so cool because our relationship always revolved around this entrepreneurial spirit. I think that’s where you and I really connected is every time we’d get together, we’d be brainstorming different ideas, and we’d be talking about fashion and we’d be talking about new businesses and how we can make a change.” - Holly Stavnes Olson, Cofounder of Left Edit In this episode, Holly and Kestrel share more on what drew them together as cofounders, and how they ended up finding their way to building Left Edit. They also share more on how incredible the designer community has been in supporting them in the development process and sharing information to help them along the way, from sourcing fabrics and materials to connecting with production partners.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Some of the lower impact details + notions Left Edit brought into their designs are:
  Corozo Nut buttons, GOTS certified dyes, digital printing to reduce water and ink usage, recycled PET zipper tapes, and recycled poly interlining
• Left Edit’s fabrics in their first collection:
  Tencel, Tencel Linen + Cupro
• Cupro is made from reclaimed cotton linter bio-utility waste, by converting it through a closed loop process. Cotton linters are the short fibers that stick to the cotton seeds -- and are typically wasted during cotton production. While its feel is luxurious like silk, Kestrel + Holly share how they love that the fabric is machine washable
• The tenants that help drive Left Edit’s brand:
  Movement, Versatility, Longevity, Quality and Community
• One-of-a-kind print designs, Holly + Kestrel partnered with a print designer who hand painted all of the designs using watercolors (the prints were inspired by west coast and midwest flowers), and then were converted to be printed digitally
• SUPPORT LEFT EDIT ON KICKSTARTER >

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In episode 141, Kestrel welcomes Lauren Engelke, a professional sustainable stylist, blogger + the curator of The Minimalist Wardrobe Shop, to the show. A new project, TMW Shop offers a curated collection of quality garments, perfect to help build a minimalist wardrobe.

“I never expected this in a million years, but the major pain point was shopping — and a lot of the clients that I worked with had actually almost over minimalized their wardrobe. And they had come so far from big wardrobes to a paired down, lean wardrobe that they were afraid to shop again.” - Lauren Engelke, Sustainable Stylist + Curator of TMW Shop In this episode, Lauren shares more on how she started questions some of the realities of the fashion industry, through her work as a stylist. Whether it was overproduction or the chemicals in the apparel she was steaming, she realized firsthand the disconnects between her values and what was happening behind-the-scenes in the industry.

After giving herself a crash course in sustainable fashion, Lauren redefined her work moving forward as a sustainable stylist.

Also, Lauren shares more about her work with The Minimalist Wardrobe, and helping curate their recently launched discovery platform. One of the coolest tools offered on The Minimalist Wardrobe’s Shop is a Before-You-Buy Checklist to help you determine whether or not you really need the item before you buy it.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• The Minimalist Wardrobe Shop
• TMW’s Before-You-Buy Checklist
• 3 words to describe TMW aesthetic according to Lauren: clean, effortless, classic
• 3 words to describe Lauren’s personal style according to her: joyful, irreverent, champagne-taste

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In episode 140, Kestrel welcomes Katie Pruett, the founder and editor-in-chief of Ethical Style Journal, to the show. A platform to help shape fashion culture into one that is as much about awareness, action, and accountability as it is about style, Ethical Style Journal is a stunning publication stacked with substance.

“If you look at the history of our country, they’ve always kind of helped shape peoples’ perspectives - they’ve always had that authority. Specifically if we’re talking about fashion magazines - I mean look at Vogue and their influence. I wanted to get in on that and say hey - let’s do some good with this, because we have that power and that’s what media has always done - and let’s use it in a positive way.” - Katie Pruett, Editor-In-Chief of Ethical Style Journal In this episode, Katie shares more on how she went from searching for a pair of boots to building an independent magazine. For Katie, Ethical Style Journal is a way to use the power of media for good, and she's bringing dynamic voices to the table to achieve this.

Additionally, Kestrel + Katie talk about how thrifting can be a good transition from fast fashion toward shopping more consciously, due to price and accessibility.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Nicora Shoes, the brand that kind of helped draw Katie into the ethical fashion conversation
• Natural Awakenings, magazine Katie did ad sales for in the past
• Definitions of terms, the way Ethical Style Journal frames it up:
  CONSCIOUS: Practicing personal, social, and environmental responsibility.
  ETHICAL: Prioritizing the well-being of people, animals, and the planet over profit.
  SUSTAINABLE: Emphasizing processes that stand the test of time, even in the face of climate change + resource depletion.
• “And while working on this issue, I had this thought: art and activism have become intersecting entities that are vital to the sustainable fashion movement. Whether writing about fashion, modeling, or making the garments that carry stories within their threads, people who contribute to making fashion sustainable create and advocate.” -quote from Katie from a past issue
• “Our cultures are not a costume” - a quote from Aditi Mayer’s article about cultural appropriation in Issue 05 of Ethical Style Journal
• Dominique Drakeford’s piece in Issue 04 of Ethical Style Journal
• The Bridal Edit, featured in Issue 04 of Ethical Style Journal
• “Our goal is to inspire people to shop more consciously, and sometimes - that means not shopping at all.” -Katie

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In episode 139, Kestrel welcomes ethical fashion blogger Benita Robledo and Casey Dworkin, founder of sustainable footwear brand, Sylven New York, to the show. Benita + Casey together are the co-founders of The Better Shop, a new Brooklyn-based pop-up, open this November + December 2018.

“We want people who are as interested in community and collaboration as we are, because we feel like - that’s how the sustainability movement is going to grow is if we foster community over competition.” - Benita Robledo, Cofounder of The Better Shop In this episode, Benita and Casey talk a lot about how they bonded over wanting to make the sustainable and ethical fashion conversation + shopping experience more accessible.

They also share more on how they feel The Better Shop stands out from the crowd. For Benita + Casey, they want the shop to bring people in from the community, which is why they are hosting an array of activations to connect people with sustainable lifestyle activities.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “And that was I think a really important aspect for Casey and I when working with brands - is that we’re all striving to be better every single day, even if we don’t get it 100% right, 100% of the time.” -Benita
• “For us, we wanted to have an even level of both brand ethos and brand aesthetic, and I think the marriage of those two things has been what’s set up our full list of brand partners.” -Casey
• The Better Shop is located at 155 Grand St. Brooklyn, NY // it’s open 7 days a week from 11 am - 7pm from November 1st - December 30th

This week's episode is brought to you by PALA EYEWEAR
Pala make premium quality eyewear, with a focus on ethics and aesthetics. Learn more about Pala at palaeyewear.com/our-story.

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In episode 138, Kestrel welcomes Shannon Lohr, the founder of Factory45, to the show. An online accelerator program, Factory45 takes sustainable fashion companies from idea to launch. Shannon’s newest project, Market45, is an ethical fashion marketplace, and it just made its debut in the e-commerce space.

“Now we are living in a world where you know, the average consumer, they’ve at least heard sustainable fashion before - they’ve heard those words. And that’s really cool. It’s really great to see the growth and the recognition of what’s happening in the space, and remembering that there’s no such thing as perfectly sustainable - if you’re making something new, everything has an impact, but knowing that we’re getting better, the conversation is at least moving along, and we have these independent fashion brands that are trying to provide better options for consumers.” - Shannon Lohr, Founder of Factory45 + Market45 In this episode, Shannon gives us an update on where things are at with Factory45, and how much they’ve grown over the last 2 1/2 years. Also, we dive into her new project, Market45, to learn more about her approach to this discovery platform for ethical fashion.

Shannon shares how in June 2018, she and her web designer decided that they would have to scrap the Market45 project, because they couldn’t figure out a way to make it work with the backend. Then, after taking a step back, she gained perspective and came back to the drawing board with new ideas to put Market45 into action.

Shannon has a unique way of discussing sustainable fashion - she emphasizes how no product can ever be 100% sustainable because it’s going to have an impact, but that we should be celebrating progress over perfection along the journey.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• 4 pillars of Market45: sustainable fabric, ethically manufactured, recycled materials, and made in the USA or made in Canada // all Market45 brands fall under at least 3 of those 4 pillars
• Emily Belyea Creative, web designer Shannon consistently works with
• Market45 is meant to be a discovery platform that sends shoppers through directly to the partner brands’ websites - but you’ll get 10% off your purchases if you go through Market45

DOWNLOAD + SUBSCRIBE

Thanks for listening to Conscious Chatter! Subscribe, download, and leave a review for Conscious Chatter on iTunes if you get a chance. I big time appreciate your support! <3 Kestrel

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In episode 137, Kestrel welcomes Pierre Nicolas Hurstel, the founder of REMODE, to the show. A conference that is meant to unite fashion brand leaders and industry-wide professionals to inspire solutions for growth and innovation, Remode’s inaugural event is taking place on November 13th and 14th, 2018 in Los Angeles.

“The future for brands is sustainable, vertical, omnichannel, purposeful - and this future has started now actually, because thanks to the incredible innovations that are now available, it is now possible for brands to do that at the same time, and sometimes the same technology can help solve both sustainability and retail problems.” - Pierre Nicolas Hurstel, Founder of ReMode In this episode, Pierre shares more on his background and what led him to want to build ReMode. Additionally, he outlines a selection of the panels and speakers he’s looking forward to hosting at this year’s inaugural event.

Given the cost of entrance to ReMode, Kestrel asks Pierre to share his thoughts on accessibility to the conversation. They discuss the importance of investing in sustainability from a business perspective, and how larger companies must allocate finances to research and development in this area as well.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• ReMode’s 4 Pillars
  ReThink, ReMake, ReInvest, ReMarket
• Isko, ingredient brand in denim manufacturing - will be speaking at ReMode
• Jeanologia, leader in sustainable and efficient finishing technologies for textiles - will be speaking at ReMode
• Paul Dillinger of Levis - will be speaking at ReMode
• Everlane - will be speaking at ReMode
• Allbirds - will be speaking at ReMode
• Kering - will be speaking at ReMode
• AI Solution Of The Year, one of the ReMode Awards that will be given out this year

GET YOUR PASS FOR REMODE
Use promo code GALERIELA for 15% off your entrance to ReMode. Purchase your pass here >

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In episode 136, Kestrel welcomes Sebastian Juhola, the creator of The Minimalist Wardrobe, to the show. A platform and popular Instagram, The Minimalist Wardrobe is meant to help people minimize their wardrobes, with a focus on ethical and sustainable values.

“Minimalism brings instant results for your personal life. It has those practical effects right away, in addition to sustainability and the environment. It also helps you personally in tremendous ways.” - Sebastian Juhola, Founder of The Minimalist Wardrobe In this episode, Kestrel gets the chance to connect with Sebastian about what led him to start @theminimalistwardrobe Instagram. Surprisingly, he started it on a whim for fun, and at one point in 2017, left it dormant for several months. Now, the account is growing an average of 500 followers per day.

Throughout this chat, Kestrel asks Sebastian to share his insight as to what storytelling + social media tactics are resonating with The Minimalist Wardrobe audience. Also, they discuss the potential that minimalism has in bringing a more mainstream audience to the sustainable fashion conversation.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• The Minimalist Wardrobe Community on Facebook
• “Minimalism is a good way to get the masses excited about this [sustainability] because they can feel instant results.”
• “I think it’s human nature that we crave instant results.”

SUGGESTED READING

“Why Does So Much Ethical Fashion Look The Same?” by Whitney Bauck on Fashionista

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In episode 135, Kestrel welcomes Lydia Wendt, the Founder + Creative Director of Cloth Foundry, as well as Ashley Denisov, the Design Lead at Cloth Foundry + founder of womenswear label 1x1, to the show. In collaboration with nature, Cloth Foundry creates textiles and apparel in California.

“This is constantly the industry dilemma. Small brands are the most innovative and they don’t have access to the best fabric because they can’t support the volume that needs to be supported to create the orders for the mills to start up the mill and knit or weave the fabric.” - Lydia Wendt, Founder of Cloth Foundry In this episode, Lydia shares more on the origins of Cloth Foundry and how her collaboration with North Face for the Backyard Project inspired the early days of the company. She and Ashley dive into more of their thoughts on what a healthy wardrobe can look like, and how much it can impact our health in different ways.

Additionally, Lydia and Ashley share their thoughts on the difficulties that young designers have in sourcing sustainable fabric options. For Cloth Foundry, they truly want to help support smaller designers to give them access to smaller minimums and textiles with a more transparent supply chain.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “A Healthy Wardrobe” - just as we think about wanting to put healthy food options into our body, the garments we wear can have an impact on our health as well
• "Our skin is our largest organ, and it’s capable of absorbing up to 64% of the chemicals that come in contact with it from fabrics.” -Ashley
• “There has been an increase in allergies - skin allergies in particular over the last few years.” -Lydia
• PFCs (perfluorinated chemicals) - are often used for waterproofing fabrics, and have been found through studies to cause cancer, thyroid issues, and other health impacts
• Fire retardant chemicals that are required to be added to our upholstery, beddings and children’s sleepwear are being found in the fetuses of newborn children, and in breast milk of mothers in the state of California.
• The Sustainable Cotton Project - a nonprofit that supports the farmers that grow cleaner cotton
• Cleaner Cotton - a brand of cotton that has eliminated the use of the 13 most toxic chemicals in cotton farming. They are not organic - they have not certified their land organic, but they are eliminating 50-70% of the toxins that are notoriously used in conventional cotton farming.

EVENT ALERT
On Saturday, October 13th from 6-10pm, the Pollima Material Revolution event will be happening in Los Angeles. The event is all about giving us an opportunity to touch, smell, and learn about how biology and waste are contributing to the next generation of materials, and tickets are free here >

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In episode 134, Kestrel welcomes Kathleen Talbot, the VP of Operations + Sustainability at Reformation, to the show. A revolutionary lifestyle brand, Reformation offers thoughtfully produced clothing at an affordable price–a reminder that being green shouldn’t mean sacrificing style and quality.

“If you’re confident and you’re motivated to really manage the impact of your product and really your product’s whole life cycle, you shouldn’t be afraid of growth. You should be really trying to maximize that because by growing our business, by reaching a bigger consumer base, we’re actually magnifying our impact." - Kathleen Talbot, VP of Operations + Sustainability at Reformation In this episode, Kathleen shares more on the origins of Reformation, and how they are an act + iterate company. For Reformation, they’re all about testing to try to reduce their impact - when they discover that something isn’t working and/or reducing their footprint, they shift right away and try something else.

Kathleen also shares more on how Reformation believes that growth isn’t something they shy away from - instead they lean into it, and believe that growth - if done in the right way - can only expand their impact exponentially.

Throughout this chat, Kestrel + Kathleen talk specifically about the resale market, and Reformation’s recently launched partnership with ThredUp to help close their loop.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “Up to 90% of the clothing that is thrown away is before the end of its useful life and can be reused, and only a fraction of stuff is getting recycled.”
• According to ThredUp’s 6th annual Resale Report released this last April, they stated that by 2022, the resale market will hit $41 billion.
• ThredUp’s Report outlines that RESALE is growing 24 times faster than RETAIL.
• ThredUp’s Report says that 1 in 3 women (18 years of age and older) shopped secondhand last year.
• Reformation Vintage Shop in Los Angeles
• Vestiaire Collective, another resale platform Kathleen mentioned that Ref has partnered with in the past
• Depop, another resale platform Kathleen mentioned that Ref has partnered with in the past

FROM THE INTRO:

Kestrel is traveling with Remake on their Made In Mexico trip this upcoming week. Alongside students from California College of Arts, the group will travel to Mexico City and Oaxaca, with the intention to meet directly with garment workers and artisans to hear their personal stories.

If you are interested in following along on the journey, you can watch Kestrel’s Instagram @consciouschatter or Remake’s @remakeourworld.

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In episode 133, Kestrel welcomes Nasreen Sheikh, the founder of both Local Women’s Handicrafts and nonprofit LOCWOM, to the show. An international public speaker and anti-sweatshop advocate, Nasreen has been featured in Forbes, The Huffington Post, Cosmopolitan and more.

"I was working in this small room, thousands of t-shirts would be all around the room, the window would be so small so there would be not enough air, and really when you have a new t-shirt that just came from the other factory and it’s literally filled with so much chemicals - and one of the hardest things for me was not being able to breathe sometimes." - Nasreen Sheikh, Founder of Local Women’s Handicrafts In this episode, Nasreen shares stories of growing up in rural Nepal, and the fear that was connected to growing up as a woman. She tells a story about a woman being murdered in her village for being too outspoken, the numerous forced marriages that happened around her, and the challenges she faced paving herself a different route.

Nasreen also shares intimate details about the realities she endured for two years, working in a sweatshop with her cousin, starting when she was 9 or 10 years old.

Also, Nasreen shares more on the issues surrounding documentation with relation to the garment industry. As she explains, many people that work in the garment industry are not documented, which means that their rights are diminished - if they get hurt, they cannot place claims about workplace injuries, and if they die, a police report will generally not be filed.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Local Women’s Handicrafts, a fair trade textile and handicraft collective in Kathmandu, focused on empowering and educating disadvantaged women using sustainable methods
• 1.6 million children in Nepal are forced to work, or 21% of all children in the country, according to the ILO’s 2008 report
• “85% of sweatshop workers are young women between the ages of 15-25”, via Feminist.org
• LOCWOM, the nonprofit that Nasreen founded, has trained over 100 women to work with them in Nepal
• According to Nasreen, when women in Nepal are menstruating, they are considered impure and often have to go stay in a hut for 5 days. She and her nonprofit LOCWOM are trying to shift the stigma associated with menstruation, and instead want to help emphasize that it is natural and beautiful. They have also helped distribute hundreds of biodegradable antibacterial sanitary pads to rural women and girls who cannot afford basic hygiene supplies.
• Nasreen’s TEDTalk, “How To Record Silence”

LOS ANGELES EVENT ALERT

The Sustainable Fashion Forum is a one-day conference focused around sustainable fashion, textile processes and practices, and offering tangible ways fashion businesses can lead in sustainability, ethical responsibility, and climate change.

Speakers include Patagonia, Reformation, Levis, Fabscrap and more. Kestrel will be speaking at 4:20pm about Sustainability + Storytelling.

Get tickets here >

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In episode 132, Kestrel welcomes Renee Peters, the founder of Model4GreenLiving, to the show. A fashion model, lifelong animal lover and nature enthusiast, Renee’s interests have inspired Model4GreenLiving, which showcases practical tips and everyday actions that help encourage mindful, sustainable living.

"Feminism and environmentalism are not two separate things - they go together." - Renee Peters, Founder of Model4GreenLiving In this episode, Renee shares her insider insight on the modeling industry, from its challenges to its perks to its abusive nature. She also talks about where she is now in her career - at 29 - and how she can already see that the end of her modeling days are in sight.

Kestrel + Renee also talk about Project Drawdown, the book edited by Paul Hawken, that outlines solutions that reduce greenhouse gases by avoiding emissions and/or by sequestering carbon dioxide already in the atmosphere.

For Renee, she believes strongly that if you are an environmentalist, you should be a feminist. As it’s outlined in Project Drawdown, supporting the empowerment of women and girls is listed as the 6th and 7th most impactful way to reduce climate change.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• The Model Alliance says that according to one survey, 29.7 percent of female models have experienced inappropriate touching at work.
• “What It’s Truly Like To Be A Fashion Model” - video story by the New York Times that Renee was featured in
• Project Drawdown: according to Project Drawdown, supporting the empowerment of women and girls are the 6th and 7th most impactful ways to drawdown carbon emissions
• “Always leave the place better than you found it” - something that Renee learned from her 10 years of being a Girl Scout, and something that still impacts the way she thinks about her actions today
• The True Cost film was monumental in Renee’s journey, and ignited her desire to want to learn as much as possible about the issues of the fashion industry to use her position as a model for good; listen to Conscious Chatter’s episode with Andrew Morgan, director of True Cost here >
• “I was unsure about who I was, and fast fashion only perpetuated that confusion." - quote from Renee’s post called “Why Giving Up Fast Fashion Is One Of The Best Things I’ve Done”
• Elizabeth Suzann, one of Renee’s favorite brands
• Reformation, one of Renee’s favorite brands

LA EVENT ALERT

GALERIE.LA + international online magazine MOCHNI are partnering for Happy Hour | A sustainable fashion networking event on Wednesday, September 19th from 7 - 9 pm at GALERIE.LA's store at ROW DTLA.

Get Your Ticket Here.

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In episode 131, Kestrel welcomes Kohl Crecelius, a social entrepreneur, and the founder and owner of two social impact apparel brands, the the show. With a focus on helping shoppers know and connect with the makers behind their clothing, KNOWN SUPPLY and Krochet Kids intl. are pushing to humanize the fashion industry.

"I remember in probably our first couple years, all we ever heard (because we were starting around the same time that Tom's was really starting to take off), all we ever heard was - what is the tagline that's like one-for-one? And we thought about it and we came up with all these iterations and then, eventually we kind of just said - you know what, there's so much more to who we are and what we're trying to accomplish than a simple little quip." - Kohl Crecelius, Founder of Known Supply + Krochet Kids In this episode, Kohl shares more on the origins of Krochet Kid intl., and how it evolved out of a company he and his friends started in high school after his brother taught him how to crochet.

Additionally, throughout the show, Kestrel + Kohl talk about different tactics for storytelling as a socially conscious brand. Kohl sheds light on the idea that maybe you don't need to have a tiny tagline for your brand - maybe you don't need to sum up your entire brand in a mini statement.

For Kohl, he and Known Supply are inspired by Patagonia's approach, which has led them to take more of a longterm approach to storytelling. They believe in putting in the work to develop the story, while educating their shoppers and sharing more in-depth information with them over time.

Kohl also shares some of his thoughts on how much potential there is out there to partner with larger brands. He outlines that too often, younger or smaller brands sell themselves short and don't present or embrace the big value (knowledge of sustainability, ethics, or supply chains) that they can actually provide to bigger brands.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• “Why this clothing startup wants you to know thy T-shirt maker”, article discussed that Kohl was featured in on Fast Company
• “My theory was that if we could understand the people behind our product, we would think about purchasing differently,” Crecelius says. “That we would realize that our story is bound up in the story of others.” -via Fast Company article
• Global Citizen Festival, a festival based in New York that Kohl and his team collaborated with in the past to create garments for them
• The Giving Keys, brand that Known Supply recently partnered with
• "What we feel like is going to change the industry is collaboration and connection."
• "Initially, I had stepped into so many of those experiences thinking that I had a clear path or a clear way to help people - that I was going to come and help people that were less fortunate than I, who didn't have the same opportunities. And I - in that - sort of had these preconceived notions of who people were and what brought them to the circumstances they were in, and how I was going to come save and change and help those. And - what I came face to face with - when I initially started traveling was people. It wasn't statistics, it wasn't the image that I had seen growing up about poverty. It was people full of life and joy and laughter, and I found that there was so much that we could connect over and we shared far more similar than we did different."

EVENT ALERT

The Mindful Materials Summit, hosted by Textile Arts LA, is taking place on September 15th-16th at the Helms Design Center in Los Angeles. Kestrel will be moderating a panel focused on Material Accessibility on the 15th.

If you are interested in attending, you can purchase tickets at the link here. Use promo code CCFRIENDS for $70 OFF the ticket price.

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In episode 130, Kestrel welcomes Shelly Gottschamer, the head of sustainability and supply chain at Outerknown, to the show. A sustainable menswear brand co-founded by 11-time world champion surfer Kelly Slater + designer John Moore, Outerknown believes in building products by making every decision with the highest regard for the environment and the people they work with.

"We're in an environmental crisis that we cannot ignore, so you have to kind of take that approach to business, and do what you can in business to sort of change that paradigm - and that's a piece of smash the formula. We really want to do things differently and inspire others by proving the case that you can do this." - Shelly Gottschamer, Head of Sustainability + Supply Chain at Outerknown In this episode, Shelly shares more on her personal journey, how she's had an interest in fashion since she was a young child, and the amount she learned about sustainability working with Levi's in the past.

She also shares details on Outerknown's approach to fabric selection, as well as their multilayered system to ensuring the safety and wellbeing of the humans in their supply chain.

Additionally, Shelly explains in detail the ways that Outerknown is pushing the needle to take transparency + circularity to the next level.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Outerknown's Preferred Fiber Strategy: organic, recycled, regenerated.
• "Up to 90% of our raw materials fall within that preferred fibers, and the last 10% is really due to minimums as an emerging brand."
• "I feel as a sustainable brand, unless you know your inputs, you can't really say you're a sustainable brand because your raw materials are on average two thirds of your environmental impact."
• Outerknown is a Bluesign Partner
• "We really need to change the way that we think about apparel. The take-make-use cycle needs to be turned into the reuse-reduce cycle, and figuring out how to take those inputs and put them back into a working system is super important and there's a lot of work to do there."
• Evrnu, fiber technology that is working to transform textile waste into pristine new fiber
• Outerknown has partnered with Bard University's Sustainability MBA program, where they are working to develop a Circularity Roadmap For Apparel Brands, which will be open source
• Outerknown has also joined the Ellen MacArthur Fiber Initiative, which is a three year plan to really figure out which levers need to be pulled to move toward a circular economy
• In The Copenhagen Fashion Summit's 2018 Pulse Of The Fashion Industry Report, Outerknown published their first three years sustainability strategy as open source (can be found on page 30 of the report)
• "I think that transparency is becoming a trend, and I think it's a good one."
• Outerknown lists all of their suppliers on their website here >
• Outerknown is a Fair Labor Association accredited brand
• Outerknown uses the Better Work Vietnam program (an ILO program)
• Outerknown's buttons are made in collaboration with Oceanworks out of recycled ocean plastics
• Outerknown's S.E.A. Jeans are now available - they come with a lifetime guarantee: Outerknown will repair or replace damaged jeans for no charge, because these jeans were built to last

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In episode 129, Kestrel welcomes Zacil Pech, the Health & Safety Organizer at The Garment Worker Center, as well as Blanca Hernandez, a member of The Garment Worker Center, to this week's show. A worker rights organization, The Garment Worker Center's mission is to organize low-wage garment workers in Los Angeles to fight for social and economic justice.

"I would often ask myself, but it was the fear of losing my job that kept me there. Anytime someone tried to speak up - especially in these type of garment shops - they always tell us if we don't like our job, then there's a lot more people that would be willing to do our job, so we are disposable." - Doña Blanca Hernandez, a member of The Garment Worker Center + garment worker in Los Angeles (translated by Zacil Pech) While on Conscious Chatter we often discuss human and environmental rights when it comes to the fashion industry, we rarely get the chance to hear directly from individuals working in garment factories. This is a powerful and important show, as we are able to hear from Doña Blanca about her personal experience working in the garment industry in Los Angeles for over 20 years.

Throughout this show, Doña Blanca shares painful stories that highlight the way her rights have been denied over the years, through her work in the garment industry in Los Angeles. For example: Doña Blanca shares that she rarely get breaks for lunch or to go to the restroom, she generally can't drink water even though the factories are extremely hot because she can't use the restroom as often as needed, and sometimes there's only one restroom for 60-70 workers.

In Doña Blanca's case, she had to hold her pee for an extremely long time in a certain factory, which led her to have severe problems, including a urinary tract infection.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• The Garment Worker Center was founded in 2001, and its origins are connected to the Thai garment worker slave case that happened in El Monte, CA, where dozens of garment workers were trafficked from Thailand and imprisoned in an apartment building that was made into a makeshift factory.
• "We say 'race to the bottom' prices because it's the piece rate. In Los Angeles, we have garment workers earning anywhere from 5 cents to the lowest I've seen is half a penny - whether it's stitching or per-piece clothing that they do. So, the ways that we organize garment workers is encouraging them to try and organize with other garment workers and organize for brands to stay accountable to the workers." -Zacil Pech
• "They rob us of our wages, in terms that they pay us by the piece rate, and unfortunately the piece rate is an illusion. They tell us, 'yes - you might be able to earn even the minimum wage,' but even when we start working faster and harder to try and make the minimum wage, they cut our prices by the piece." - Doña Blanca
• "Just to give you a bit of context, the price per piece in Los Angeles hasn't been raised in over about 33 years. We've seen that it has been steady even if the cost of living has been going up, minimum wage has been going up, the price per piece hasn't." -Zacil Pech
• "What we're seeing right now [the piece rate] is anywhere from 3 to the most is about 7 cents. The lowest that I've seen in my time here is half a penny." -Zacil Pech
• "For workers, we're seeing that the average is anywhere from $4-6 dollars [per day], which is way below the federal minimum wage - in Los Angeles, we're going to reach $15/hr by 2020. That gives you an estimate of just how stark the situation is within the garment industry." -Zacil Pech
• "We also don't have the luxury of buying ourselves clothes. We don't have the luxury even of buying ourselves shoes. We don't have the luxury of going into a store and buying these garments. On the contrary, what we've learned to do is go to swap meets where they are selling used clothes for 50 cents, even a dollar, which are the things that we can afford." -Blanca Hernandez
• When asked what she would like to say to the people to buy the clothes that she makes, Blanca said, "I would tell them the truth about how we live. I would tell them the truth about how we learned to survive. I would tell them the truth about how they steal our wages, and how they steal our health. I would tell them not to shop at these certain shops. I would tell them to boycott these stores. I wish they would listen and I wish they would understand our realities, but I know that I can't tell people how to live their life - but this is just my wish, that they would listen to us and support us."
• GET INVOLVED with The Garment Worker Center

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In episode 128, Kestrel welcomes Morgan Hamel, the founder of The Garment, to the show. A platform that helps connect women and responsible brands, The Garment is known for their Virtual Pop-Ups, which showcase quality products from makers who also have a good story.

"I realized that there was an entire community of makers out in the world who basically were trying to connect to a community of women who are interested in living more vibrant lives by owning fewer, better things, and sometimes those communities struggle to find each other. Basically, The Garment stepped into the middle." -Morgan Hamel, Founder of The Garment In this episode, Kestrel chats with Morgan about the origins of The Garment, and how their Virtual Pop-Ups really work.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Unfancy by Caroline Rector, a blog that inspired Morgan in her early explorations of ethical fashion
• 10,000 Garment Goal, The Garment's goal to connect women and 10,000 responsibly made garments by the end of 2018
• Interested in a garment from the Garment's Workwear Virtual Pop-Up?
  Use the code CONSCIOUS10 for 10% off your order on any of the brand sites featured below

The 6 featured brands + links to their platforms are outlined below:

• Brass Clothing
• ABLE
• SoMo London
• Revelle
• Sene
• Miik

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In episode 127, Kestrel welcomes Saloni Shrestha, the cofounder + designer of Agaati, to the show. A womenswear brand that is committed to bringing accessible luxury to the industry, Agaati believes there is a way to fuse cultural traditions with today's fast-paced tech-driven world.

"Designing with what is there at the moment is complicated. So using both the channels: preserving this art of weaving; at the same time, working with the eco-friendly mill-created textile is I think a good balance for our company." -Saloni Shrestha, Cofounder + Designer of Agaati In this episode, Saloni shares more on her background, and how she found herself leaving the corporate world and moving to New York to study fashion at Parsons.

Saloni talks about how intentional her internship process was - she went into her experiences working with Oscar De La Renta, Diane Von Furstenberg, Zac Posen and Naeem Khan, with a larger goal in mind. For Saloni, it was about learning to understand the design process & the decision-making process, and to be present to admire and soak up all the beauty of creativity around her.

Also, Saloni gets honest about the challenges of sourcing and developing sustainable materials, as well as finding clear answers behind fabrics. As she says, "I think what matters at this moment is there is an effort in the right direction."

Kestrel asks Saloni about Slow Weave, the film that Agaati produced to tell the untold stories of artisan weavers in India. Saloni explains how weaving is becoming an endangered art form, and how important she believes it is to help support the weavers still doing it today.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Timo Rissanen, taught the zero waste design course that Saloni took at Parsons, listen to our show with Timo here >
• Matka Silk, a type of silk Agaati uses, which is made in India from waste mulberry silk yarn
• "I think what matters at this moment is there is an effort in the right direction."
• "[Handweaving] is becoming an endangered art in India."
• "Even though these weavers do not sit in beautiful offices or a very air conditioned room, the work that they do I think is no less than couture. So, that is kind of the parallel that we draw and we want to preserve this craftsmanship."

RECOMMENDED MAGAZINE:
Ethical Style Journal by Editor-In-Chief Katie Pruett

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In episode 126, Kestrel welcomes Zoe Cleary, the cofounder of Nisolo, as well as Matt Stockamp, the Impact Associate at Nisolo, to the show. A fashion company known for their hip, fairly made shoes, Nisolo's mantra is: Intentionally designed. Ethically made. Fairly priced.

"Our mission has really been to kind of bridge the gap between the end consumer + the producer, and show how you can make a positive or a negative impact into producers lives. And to have that conversation going - for the consumer to feel like they understand where their products are really from, and the importance of the role that they can really play in that." -Zoe Cleary, Cofounder of Nisolo In this episode, Zoe shares her unique story, and what led her to shift away from the conventional fashion industry. She also shares the background of how she first connected with her cofounder over a 4-hour Skype call, that pushed her to buy a ticket to Peru to meet him, and then, quickly after - she quit her job in New York to move to Peru to help build Nisolo.

Also, Zoe shares more on how Nisolo has grown over the years - after starting with 4 shoemakers, they now have 80 full-time shoemakers working in the factory that they own and operate.

To keep customers + other up-to-date, Nisolo shares an Impact Report regularly through their website. Matt shares more on this and the additional programs that Nisolo is working on to offset their carbon footprint, as well as close the loop in their supply chain.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Good World Solutions, Matt had a social entrepreneurship fellowship with them during university
• About 80% of Nisolo's products are made in their factory in Trujillo, Peru
• Nisolo & Ecosphere+ Partnership
• Nisolo's Impact Report
• "45% of our producers who are working with us have never held a formal job in the economy before. This is the first time that they're receiving a stable salary, this is the first time that they are receiving benefits."
• 2020 Circular Fashion System Commitment by Global Fashion Agenda, Nisolo has signed it
• Soles4Souls, Nisolo's partner for their takeback program

BONUS FROM NISOLO

Zoe wanted to extend an exclusive 20% off site wide discount at Nisolo for all Conscious Chatter listeners! :)

Use code CHATTER20 on Nisolo.com if you find something you'd like to add to your wardrobe.
The code expires November 1st.

RECOMMENDED READING FROM INTRO

"Here's Why We Think Sustainable Fashion Is A Moving Target"
via The Good Trade

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In episode 125, Kestrel welcomes Laurinda Ndenzako, the cofounder of Collective Closets, to the show. A womenswear label based + made in Melbourne, Collective Closets was built off of Laurinda + her sister Fatuma's African - Australian identities.

"As far as Collective Closets go, we always say that we don't have all the answers, but we definitely want to be part of that conversation - we want to be part of that movement as well to leave a positive impact. And it all starts at home - and sometimes, just the smallest changes make the biggest impact." -Laurinda Ndenzako, Cofounder of Collective Closets In this episode, Laurinda shares more on the origins of Collective Closets, and how while she and her sister Fatuma were trained outside of fashion, both of their parents made clothing at home, and that was something that influenced them growing up.

A large part of the spark that pushed Laurinda + Fatuma to build Collective Closets was a family trip to Nairobi. According to Laurinda, the brand blossomed out of she and her sister being really proud of their African Australian culture, and embracing the chance to have a voice to tell their own story.

Additionally, throughout this show, Kestrel + Laurinda talk more specifically about the way that Collective Closets always shares a thought provoking piece to outline the inspiration behind each collection. As Laurinda explains, this storytelling component is a massive part of their brand and the way they connect on a larger level with their shoppers, family, friends and beyond.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Grandma’s Finest Vintage, first company Laurinda + Fatima started (reworked vintage items
• Masai shuka, traditional check fabric originating in East Africa, and worn by the Masai people (a staple used in each of Collective Closets' collections)
• MPENZI WANGU/DEAR ME Collection (most recent collection)
  “This was her life. Not the life she had dreamed of, not a life her younger self would ever have imagined or desired, but the life she was living, with all it’s complexities. This was her life, built with care and attention, and it was good.” Kim Edwards
  The latest collection titled Mpenzi Wangu or Dear Me is inspired by the way in which our past's shape our personal evolution. If you had the opportunity to speak with your younger self what would you say? Have you shed your skin or does she still live within?
• "I think people are not looking for cookie cutter fashion anymore."

Suggested Listening
"Why A Drop Of 4 Degrees Made A Big Difference For A Garment Maker's Bottom Line"

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In episode 124, Kestrel welcomes Luke Haverhals, the founder and CEO of Natural Fiber Welding, to the show. An analytical chemist, materials scientist and entrepreneur, Luke is working to produce sustainable, high performance materials for a variety of applications with his team at Natural Fiber Welding.

"We're doing something really important for the world which is to basically unleash the abundance of nature and what nature produces at scale (that's very high performance), and being able to convert those materials very simply and very cost-effectively into the things that we need to have high quality and standards of living that are sustainable and renewable." -Luke Haverhals, CEO + Founder of Natural Fiber Welding In this episode, Luke shares more of his backstory, and how growing up on a farm in the Midwest helped him understand some of the processes behind the creation of things - whether it was food or other materials. He also explains how his research / the early developments of Natural Fiber Welding evolved out of his work at the Department of Defense.

Additionally, Luke helps break down a bit more of the chemistry and science behind the Natural Fiber Welding closed loop system process.

Kestrel addresses an issue she has seen quite a bit recently in the innovative materials space - in that younger, smaller brands often aren't able to access these new fabrics, either due to minimums or requirements for large financial investments. Luke explains how he and Natural Fiber Welding are doing things differently - due to the way they have built an efficient, scalable system, they feel confident working with both smaller and larger brands.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Paul Truelove, Researcher who Luke worked for and with at the U.S. Naval Academy
• Bradley University, where Luke has worked as a Chemistry Professor
• "If you consider what nature is really good at making in abundance, it's fiber. So, photosynthesis and plants - you can think about it as an amazing nanorobot technology that produces all sorts of wonderful materials of various physical and chemical processes. But, it's fiber that the world is good at."
• "Cellulose is the most abundant material that's produced by photosynthesis - something approaching 100 gigatons of cellulose are produced each year by life processes on the planet - it dwarfs the amount of abundance that mankind really needs in order to live well."
• Intermolecular forces: nature's sort of glue that holds polymer to polymer; the important one to know about is called hydrogen bonding.
• Hydrogen bonding: this electrostatic attraction that takes one polymer and holds it to all of its neighbors even though the individual molecules are not connected to each other through covalent bonding - they're connected by this intermolecular force.
• "The fiber welding process is a chemistry process that's a closed loop process that imparts a physical change to fiber, connects fibers in ways that they normally wouldn't be connected, and it's 100% natural when it's all done, and you reclaim the chemistry that you enabled the physical change with, and use it again and again. You get something that starts off as fibers as a loose pile, and now those fibers become a 3-dimensional part for your furniture. Or what we do in the textile world is we can take yarns that are made from cotton and especially upcycled cotton (where the fiber is short and the yarns that are made from second-use cotton are not strong enough or very fine), to make really high end performance fabrics. We can take those fibers and we can make yarns that are very strong and fine, and therefore, you can make performance fabrics from cottons that have already been used once."
• Steelcase x Natural Fiber Welding Collaboration, in which they strengthened recycled denim to produce tabletops entirely out of used jeans
• "You can integrate other things that you do along the way to make the textile - all into one process that ends up actually creating a better performing thing - like color that doesn't fade and wash out."
• "Because automation is changing the world, and we're sort of making sure our process as we think about it - we're on the forefront on the technology side, making sure we can liberate it for everybody - not just a few."

Recommended Article From Intro
"Sustainable Fashion Only Works When It's Inclusive: When talking about sustainability, we must address the elephant in the room."
by Celine Semaan

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In episode 123, Kestrel welcomes Rachel Temko, the founder + creative director of Whimsy+Row, to the show. A lifestyle brand for the creative, adventurous lady, Whimsy+Row not only offer their clothing + goods online, they also have a lovely freestanding store in Venice, California.

"I started Whimsy promoting other brands, and that to me is like - we should all be in this together to spread the word and make everybody aware that this is more of a lifestyle." -Rachel Temko, Founder + Creative Director of Whimsy+Row In this episode, Rachel shares her journey toward taking the leap to start her own company, and how much the creative energy of her family has inspired her over the years.

Additionally, Kestrel + Rachel discuss this new age of influencers, and Whimsy+Row's approach to hiring them for their marketing efforts. While Rachel believes you have to use a combination of influencer marketing mixed with more traditional styles today, she sees the extra benefit of receiving valuable content through influencer partnerships.

Rachel also shares more on her larger vision for Whimsy+Row, which involves building an eco-conscious community first, and a fashion brand second.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• "A Guide To Working With Niche Influencers", article on Business of Fashion that Kestrel mentions
• "I first want Whimsy+Row to be an eco-conscious community, and second - a clothing brand."
• "What's great about working with influencers - what I really love - is that you get more content. So, maybe if you didn't get a ton of sales out of the post, you might get some beautiful content that you can repost, and your customers can see firsthand how it looks on a different type of person and body shape, so that's where I think working with influencers can be better than doing paid advertising."
• "I mean we think about what we eat all the time and what we consume - why are we not thinking about what we're putting on our largest organ on our body?"
• "I think the easiest thing we can all do is just reinventing what we already have in our closet."
• "Now that I only buy sustainable brands or vintage, I find that my stuff lasts longer, and I'm more connected to the pieces that I own."

Article Recommendation
"You Can Quit Feeling Guilty - Sustainability Isn't An All Or Nothing Game" by Sarah Spoljaric for The Good Trade

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In episode 122, Kestrel welcomes Anita Vandyke, the author of A Zero Waste Life: in thirty days, to the show. A rocket scientist, blogger, and current student of medicine, Anita is passionate about inspiring others to be every day activists by making small, individual steps to reduce their waste.

"Zero waste living to me means reducing your waste, but also at the same time, it means not wasting away your life - so, not wasting your time, your energy, and finding purpose in your life." -Anita Vandyke, Author of A Zero Waste Life In this episode, Anita shares more on her path toward a more zero waste life, how she wasn't always a minimalist, and how she gradually evolved from her past maximalist lifestyle.

Additionally, Anita shares some really digestible, accessible tips to help us think about reducing waste while traveling and beyond. For her, there isn't one specific way to work toward a more zero waste lifestyle, which is why she built a tiered system that offers options for you, depending on what's going on in your life at different time periods.

For Anita, it's about having grace for yourself throughout the process, and always understanding that life happens.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Dr. Sylvia Earle, founder of Mission Blue / The Sylvia Earle Alliance
• Anita's 3 Steps To Zero Waste Method:
  1) Reduced Waste Option
  2) Low Waste Option
  3) Zero Waste Option
• "It's also a big reminder when you go into a thrift store that fashion has become almost worthless. So, when you see the sale of a jacket or a dress for $3.99, which is less than a coffee in San Francisco, you have to question yourself: how far have we come that fashion is so worthless?"
• "I like to use the terminology that we have enough."
• "You can be passionate about a way of living such as zero waste living, but you don't have to be militant about it."
• Anita suggests to bring your own Zero Waste Kit with you when you travel, including the below:
• napkin, stainless steel straw, reusable coffee cup, reusable drink bottle + cutlery
• "It's like any muscle, though - if you make a conscious decision, it's a muscle that you work at - mindfulness is a muscle, so if you keep practicing at it, it will get easier."

Book Recommendation From Intro:
Give A Shit | Do Good. Live Better. Save The Planet by Ashlee Piper

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In episode 121, Kestrel welcomes Rebecca van Bergen, the founder and executive director of Nest, to the show. A nonprofit that is building a new handworker economy, Nest is dedicated to generating global workforce inclusivity, improving women's wellbeing beyond factories, and preserving cultural traditions.

"Most consumers are completely unaware of this, but production is leaving the 4 wall factory. Anywhere between 20-60% of current garment manufacturing leaves the factory at some point, whether it's sewing a sole on a shoe or doing embroidery or finish work - to homeworkers that were completely invisible." -Rebecca van Bergen, founder + executive director of Nest In this episode, Rebecca shares more on her journey, and how she originally came to the craft sector from a social work lens, with an interest in helping women around the world. Craft is the second largest employer of women in emerging markets, and for Rebecca - handmade needs to be more accessible to businesses and customers.

Additionally, Rebecca talks in more detail about how she believes that the lack of programming and investment in global craft is aligned with the fact that the majority of the sector is female-dominated.

Considering that 20-60% of current garment manufacturing leaves the 4 walls of the factory at some point today, Nest has helped build The Nest Standards for Homes and Small Workshops + Nest Seal of Ethical Handcraft. Rebecca breaks down in more detail what their standards look like and the ways in which they approach transparency and compliance.

At Nest, they not only help connect brands to their artisan partner network, they also connect aligned professionals with artisan partners, to offer them pro bono consulting on building their businesses.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Mohammed Yunus, 2006 Nobel Peace Prize
• Craft is the second largest employer of women globally.
• Nest Artisan Guild, an open access network for artisan businesses including over 400 businesses from over 70 countries
• "You know I think some people were like, 'focus in on one country - like get really good at India,' and it turns out, the similarities between craft businesses in India, it's not the location that matters - it's where they are in the stage of development."
• Professional Fellowship Program, where Nest matches professionals with artisan businesses to do pro bono consulting
• "Transparency isn't a program - that's a precursor to programs in our opinion."
• The Nest Standards for Homes and Small Workshops + Nest Seal of Ethical Handcraft work together to ensure industry-wide transparency and compliance for production is taking place beyond the factory.

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In episode 120, Kestrel welcomes Jessica Kelly, the founder of Thr3efold, to the show. A platform that helps connect brands to ethical factories around the world, Thr3efold also hosts Deadstock District, a private portal to sell your fabric liability and source dead stock.

"I keep digging deeper because sometimes people will be like, 'oh well, this brand doesn't talk about their factories so we should question their ethics' - maybe, but maybe not. It doesn't necessarily mean there's something that they're hiding." -Jessica Kelly, founder of Thr3efold In this episode, Jessica shares more on her journey into the fashion industry, and how she was inspired to self teach herself as much as she could about the sustainable and ethical fashion industry.

Additionally, Kestrel asks Jessica to expand on a blog post she wrote about transparency and whether or not it's actually the answer to a more ethical fashion industry. Here's a quote from that blog post:

“Does publishing your factories make you more sustainable? The short answer is no. Listing your factories does not make you more ethical or more sustainable, it simply makes you more transparent. Your factories could be great or they could only be mediocre (I hope not worse) but that doesn’t mean they are better than other fashion brands who choose not to list their factories openly.”

Also, Jessica shares more thoughts on what led her to build Deadstock District, a portal she hosts on Thr3efold. Deadstock District gives designers a way to sell their excess fabric, and other designers a place to source deadstock materials.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• "You can't steer a parked car."
• Sedex, ethical trade audit company (according to Jessica, this is more of a self-assessment tool, and not as advanced as they prefer when vetting factories they suggest)
• "Why Transparency Isn't The Solution To Being A More Ethical Sustainable Fashion Industry" (blog post written by Jessica that was referred to in the episode)
• Primark, map of their factories
• ISO9001 Standard
• Th3efold works with factories certified with WRAP, SA8000, Betterwork, GOTS, and World Fair Trade Organization at this time.
• Fashion Revolution podcast
• Deadstock District, a private portal to sell your fabric liability and source deadstock material
• Conscious Chatter Episode 102 with Dominique Drakeford of Melanin and Sustainable Style

Instagram To Watch
This week, my partner Drew and I are traveling to Oaxaca on a trip with GlobeIn, a subscription box company that features handmade and ethically sourced goods from around the world. We'll be documenting the adventures and meeting some of the makers behind their products. If you're interested in tuning in to see some of the journey, follow along on GlobeIn's Instagram @globein_world.

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In episode 119, Kestrel welcomes José Teunissen, the Dean of the School of Design and Technology at London College of Fashion, and a Professor of Fashion Theory, to the show. José is also the curator of State Of Fashion 2018 | searching for the new luxury, an exhibition that recently opened in Arnhem, Netherlands, and runs through July 22nd, 2018.

"Primarily, I also think this time period will be - it's a paradigm shift, probably a big paradigm shift - maybe it's only the start of it, but I think we are definitely in a period where we start to redefine what fashion is." -José Teunissen, Curator of State Of Fashion 2018 In this episode, José shares more context on her past experiences with fashion, and how she became intrigued with fashion theory at an early age through exploring the way fashion can reflect a snapshot of culture in different time periods.

Additionally, José explains the approach to this year's State Of Fashion event, and how she and her team wanted to "search for the new luxury" to uncover potential options that could become future solutions.

For José, the fashion industry has lost a bit of control as well as its cultural meaning, and instead has become a system to give people more opportunities to buy new things all the time. State Of Fashion wants to redefine what fashion is, what values it can offer us, and the luxury it can offer us, to be more aligned with the current culture and moment we live in now.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Anne Hollander, American historian whose writing provided new insights into the history of fashion and costume and their relation to the history of art, an author José was interested in during her earlier explorations of fashion theory
• Elizabeth Wilson, author who wrote about the importance of the aesthetic in modern life, another writer José studied and read in her earlier explorations of fashion theory
• ArtEZ, famous fashion program in Arnhem
• Vin + Omi, "we are not just a fashion label, we are an ideology"
• Masters Of Change, a group of young designers selected through an open call for State Of Fashion 2018
• State Of Fashion Manifesto
• Iris Van Herpen, a pioneer in using 3D printing as a garment construction technique, featured at State Of Fashion 2018
• Elisa van Joolen, has an interactive installation project at State Of Fashion 2018, which explores questions around the relationships we have with our clothing and the value we associate with these garments
• Bruno Pieters, focuses on transparency and shares all the stories of his supply chain through his web platform, featured at State Of Fashion 2018
• Space and Matter, architects who designed the State Of Fashion 2018 exhibition space

Featured Artists From Intro
Vin+Omi, Self-Assembly, Elisa van Joolen and 11.11

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In episode 118, Kestrel welcomes Rebecca Burgess, the founder of Fibershed, to the show. A globally recognized project, Fibershed is working to address and educate the public on the environmental, economic and social benefits of de-centralizing the textile supply chain.

"What are we doing? What is our consumption doing to other people's cultures?" -Rebecca Burgess, founder of Fibershed In this episode, Rebecca shares more on her exceptional and unexpected path into working in the textile industry. For her, it all started with agriculture, and a happenstance loom that happened to exist at her former university.

For Rebecca, she has continued to uncover and discover so many more intricacies of the textile system through her curiosity and drive to consistently ask more questions.

Throughout this chat, Rebecca also shares more in depth information on the power that farmers and ranchers hold today to turn around the health of our soil, while becoming climate change heroes.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Rebecca realized what a fibershed is while she was living in Southeast Asia:
  "a Fibershed is like a watershed or a food shed - it's a strategic geography that clothes you."
• "I think there's a danger in abstracting the wearer from the source of the material."
• Paige Green, photographer Rebecca partnered with in the early stages of building out Fibershed
• Prototype Wardrobe, project Rebecca developed in 2010 (the beginnings of Fibershed), where she worked with the community around her to develop and wear a prototype wardrobe whose dyes, fibers and labor were sourced from a region no larger than 150 miles from the project’s headquarters
• Carbon Farming: decarbonizing the atmosphere + re-carbonizing our soils is a process Rebecca has been working diligently on educating farmers, ranchers and larger brands about, in an effort to help them maximize their carbon capture
• "Everyone who manages a farm or a ranch has the potential of being a complete climate hero."
• North Face x Fibershed Climate Beneficial Wool project
• Drawdown, book by Paul Hawken - Rebecca shares how overall, regenerative farming is really how we are going to be able to reverse global warming
• "Bare ground is what you want to avoid in carbon farming."
• Gabe Brown, farmer in North Dakota who has been sequestering massive amounts of carbon into his soil through his regenerative farming approach, using cover crops of diverse species that he calls chaos gardens
• Climate Beneficial Wool, supports fiber production that measurably contributes to balancing the carbon cycle
• Natural Resource Conservation Service
• Comet, tool that allows Fibershed and/or farmers model different scenarios, to help them determine how they can maximize their carbon capture
• Citizen Science Soil Sampling Protocol, developed with UC Davis - it's a toolkit that allows the rancher to take their own soil samples, and they send them to the lab to receive carbon data in their soil per acre (it also allows the farmer or rancher to understand how much carbon they are actually sequestering)
• The Fibershed blog, stories from their producer program
• The Fibershed Affiliate Directory, provides a point of connection to the grassroots network of communities organizing around regional fiber systems
• Post Colonial Bandaid Strategies: "it's like we're rich white people with money and we're going to invest in things that make us feel better in developing countries, and we're going to invest in big global technologies that have high returns and scale really quickly." Rebecca believes that people of means need to be investing in community-based infrastructure.

Artist Alert From Intro:

Rachel Ignotofky is an author and illustrator, who creates exceptionally stunning systems-oriented artwork, connected to the earth, science and women.

If you're a visual learner like me, her artwork can truly help paint a clear explanation of some of the wonders of the planet and beyond.

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In episode 117, Kestrel welcomes Juan Diego Gerscovich, the cofounder of Industry of All Nations, to the show. A design and development office that was founded in 2010, IOAN has a commitment to rethink methods of production for consumer goods.

"Every maker that we work with, we want to give them the chance, to let them express - via the product - their life." -Juan Diego Gerscovich, cofounder of IOAN In this episode, Juan shares insight into his early years, growing up in Argentina with parents in the fashion industry. He also talks about how from a young age, he had a powerful interest in the origin of things, and a curiosity connected to where things come from.

While Juan originally studies architecture, he eventually realized that garments and consumer goods allowed him to create things that were more accessible to people, and that allowed him to develop a more intimate connection.

Kestrel and Juan further explore this idea that products have their own identity - sparked by the below quote from IOAN's website:

“Products have their own identity, which come from their history. An alpaca sweater hand knit in Bolivia, a pair of alpargatas from Argentina or a checkered lined rain-coat made in England. Each of these represent specific moments in time, places, feelings, and we buy and wear them based on how they resonate with us. If you separate a thing from its origin, you separate it from its meaning and reduce it to a mere scrap of cotton and plastic. You orphan it.”

Also, Juan shares more about how Industry Of All Nations was born to bring production back to the original makers.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• IOAN's Alpaca Project
• New Denim Project, IOAN is working on a new project with them - listen to our Conscious Chatter episode with New Denim Project here >

Innovative Brand
Self-Assembly: based in Finland, Self-Assembly makes ready-to-assemble garment construction kits, and basically takes humans out of the supply chain.

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In episode 116, Kestrel welcomes Mara Hoffman back to the show, for an update on where the company is - when it comes to sustainability - almost 2 years later. The first time Mara came to the show (in episode 18), the company was just beginning to shift Mara Hoffman over toward a more sustainable direction. In this chat, we get a chance to understand the evolution of the company over the last couple years, in their efforts to tackle their supply chain and fabrications, with a sustainability lens.

"I've been saying 'survival of the kindest' right now - this idea that people that aren't doing good things for the planet or for humanity or for any living beings (the planet as a whole), should be voted off the island." -Mara Hoffman, President & Creative Director of Mara Hoffman In this episode, Mara shares her thoughts on how far her company has come since they decided to move toward a more sustainable direction. Additionally, Mara shares some of the challenges they encounter regularly since the adjustments, from changing timelines to factor in the timing necessary for fabric development, and navigating the world of certifications.

As a smaller company, Mara shares that while often, it can be challenging to not have a large amount of capital at your fingertips, she's grateful to have the freedom to make changes faster, by being independently run. For the company, they've found unique ways of getting more creative with money to make things work for them.

Also, a key element for Mara is always working on their fit. She believes fit is an important aspect of becoming more sustainable, because it plays largely into the wearability + longevity of their garments.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Materials breakdown, on Mara Hoffman's website
• Nest, a partner of Mara Hoffman, helps support their artisan network
• Art Atlas, a partner of Mara Hoffman, Art Atlas is committed to supporting local community development and artisan independence
• Women's Prison Association, nonprofit Mara Hoffman supports + does a lot of work with
• Lower East Side Girls Club, nonprofit Mara Hoffman supports + works with
• "Your experiences match your feelings, and I don't think people think about that a lot."
• "I think with anything, when you really love what you have, you're just not craving all the other stuff."

Event Alert From The Intro
State Of Fashion (June 1st - July 22nd in Arnhem, Netherlands)
Get Your Tickets Here >

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In episode 115, Kestrel welcomes Tomide Awe, the founder of Olori, to the show. A handbag line that incorporates traditional African textiles into modern designs, Olori was built with an intention to help women become actively involved in solving women-interest issues, especially with regard to education.

"It's not about just donating money - we are not a charity organization, this is not a charitable affair for us. We are on a mission to build this network of future empowered women, and we wanted to ensure that the girls feel the full effect of every dollar that we spend." -Tomide Awe, Founder of Olori In this episode, Tomide shares more about her journey, and how growing up in Nigeria helped her realize the impact an education can have on women's lives. According to UNESCO, a girl in Nigeria has a 73% chance of not going to school. For Tomide, her mom helped to ensure she was able to get an education, and now she has multiple degrees. She wants to pay that forward to help give other young girls the opportunity to learn, grow and build their own future.

With each Olori bag purchased, a girl receives one month of education, in coordination with Olori's giving partner Bridge International Academies. One powerful element of Tomide's company is she's not just a charity and/or a business with a giving model. Instead, she has built a supply chain that supports women throughout the backstory of her products as well.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Wharton, university where Tomide studied and received her Master's degree
• "Nigeria is a country where a girl has a 73% chance of not going to school at all, according to UNESCO"
• "About 9.5 million girls will never step foot in a school, compared to about 5 million boys [in Africa]."
• "UNICEF says that mothers that have had some education are more than twice as likely to send their own children to school."
• Bridge International Academies, Olori's nonprofit giving partner
• Olori actually means "queen" in Tomide's language - the Yuruba language of Nigeria
• Aso-oke: textiles used to make Olori's bags
• "We strongly believe that when women support women, incredible things happen."

GIVEAWAY ALERT

Conscious Chatter has partnered with IndieGetup for a Conscious Closet Giveaway! Featuring a line up of $850 worth of sustainable + ethically-sourced brands, you could win badass pieces from Krochet Kids, Bluer Denim, Patara Shoes, Indosole, Bewildher + more!

ENTER TO WIN A CONSCIOUS CLOSET HERE >

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In episode 114, Kestrel welcomes Emily Katz, the founder of Modern Macrame, to the show. An artist, designer, business owner, and teacher, Emily also just released her new book Modern Macrame, which showcases 33 stylish projects for your handmade home.

"For the most part, if you're interested in craft and you have some knowledge of it, it's pretty easy to pick up. And, I think that because there's this low entry, it creates a lot of relaxation for people. In this hectic world that we live in where everything is at the speed of light and we're all accessible all the time, I think that macrame has this beautiful tactile quality that you can bring into your home." -Emily Katz, Founder + Author of Modern Macrame In this episode, Emily shares her unique journey into macrame, and how while she was always interested in making things (from fiber art to clothing to embroidery), she didn't actually learn how to macrame until she was in her 30s. For Emily, learning to do macrame was part of a powerful reconnection with her mom.

Additionally, Emily shares insight into the incredible story behind the rope that she offers on Modern Macrame, which is made in a factory in Turkey that supports Syrian refugee women.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Bonnie Heart Clyde, Emily's former fashion label
• Emily Katz Eco Collections, past solo label
• Emily Katz, past fashion lines + art
• Rope for macrame, available via Modern Macrame
• Refuge Design x Emily Katz Project
• UNDP on Supporting Syrians + the region, conference Emily attended in Turkey w/ Ray Boyle of Refugee Design was hosted by the UNDP
• Modern Macrame, Emily's new book
• Modern Macrame Book Tour
• For A Strawless Ocean

Event Alert From The Intro
State Of Fashion (June 1st - July 22nd in Arnhem, Netherlands)
Get Your Tickets Here >

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In episode 113, Kestrel welcomes Lawrence Lenihan, the CEO of Resonance, to the show. A venture operating company, Resonance partners with brands to enable them to build a fashion business that is as beautiful as their creative vision.

"WHAT WE'RE DOING IS WE'RE RETHINKING. THIS WHOLE INDUSTRY WAS BUILT ON THE IDEA THAT YOU MAKE MANY - LOTS AND LOTS - BIG RUNS ... WE'RE ACTUALLY GOING COMPLETELY THE OPPOSITE. RATHER THAN HAVING FEWER STYLES OVER MORE AND MORE UNITS, OUR WHOLE ARCHITECTURE IS: HOW DO WE MAKE ONE UNIT AS EFFICIENTLY AS A THOUSAND?" -LAWRENCE LENIHAN, FOUNDER OF RESONANCE In this episode, Kestrel asks Lawrence to talk more about how Resonance intends to fuse the worlds of art and commerce, when so often they tend to resist each other. For Resonance, it's about bringing business and art together, but allowing art to be the driving force.

Lawrence shares more about how fast Resonance can move their brand partners' designs from inception to customer doorstep - in less than nine days. Kestrel and Lawrence explore whether this new infrastructure Resonance is building is "speeding things up" or just shifting the model to allow the designer to have more control.

Additionally, Kestrel asks Lawrence to elaborate more on this idea that "creation is discontinuity," which is a foundational element of Resonance's approach.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Resonance's Art vs Commerce Video
• "We have sold 20,000 units with 2,000 different styles."
• "The interesting thing about fashion is that it is the thing that is touching you physically, and it represents where you are, where you think you stand, where you belong. And, that expression of "where I belong" is a current expression of conditions in the environment in which I live, and that's why i think this is a really, really critical thing."
• Plausible deniability: "the ability of people (typically senior officials in a formal or informal chain of command) to deny knowledge of or responsibility for any damnable actions committed by others in an organizational hierarchy because of a lack of evidence that can confirm their participation, even if they were personally involved in or at least willfully ignorant of the actions"

GIVEAWAY ALERT

Conscious Chatter has partnered with IndieGetup for a Conscious Closet Giveaway! Featuring a line up of $850 worth of sustainable + ethically-sourced brands, you could win badass pieces from Krochet Kids, Bluer Denim, Patara Shoes, Indosole, Bewildher + more!

ENTER TO WIN A CONSCIOUS CLOSET HERE >

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In episode 112, Kestrel welcomes Sarah Holley Gonzales, the owner + creator of neo•thread, to the show. An Albuquerque-based brand, neo•thread is dedicated to transforming discarded clothing into fresh, one-of-a-kind pieces.

"It was actually my Dad that taught me how to sew when I was little. And, even greater than how to work a machine, he taught me how to find beauty in the resources available - specifically, things that people would discard." -Sarah Holley Gonzales, founder of neo•thread In this episode, Sarah shares more about what inspired her to build neo•thread, and how she took the leap from a "real job" to pursuing her dream job. Also, Sarah tells a powerful story about how her Dad taught her to sew + be resourceful as a child, and how that has influenced the way she values used things.

While neo•thread's branding approach is that "cool girls care," it was surprising to learn that Sarah's shoppers aren't generally sustainably or ethically minded when they make their first purchase with her. For these shoppers, connecting with neo•thread has given them the opportunity to learn more about the realities of the fashion industry, and get educated about the issues.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• "Our culture is all about before + afters ... whether it's fitness or home decor ... whatever it is, we're all about before + afters, so people really attach to that and they love that."
• "People hear upcycling and they think old and tired, and I want to be the exact opposite of that. I want to be youth, fun, celebratory - it's gotta be new life - neo•thread is all about new life."
• "Just because something's cheap, does not mean you should buy it."
• "We don't understand that a lot of times when we buy cheap, we aren't being resourceful."
• Conscious Chatter Episode with Cotopaxi: listen here >

Sponsor:
This Conscious Chatter episode is brought to you by GlobeIn.
**Use promo code CONSCIOUSCHATTER for 25% OFF your first Artisan Box with any Premium Artisan Box subscription.

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In episode 111, Kestrel welcomes Aditi Mayer, the creative behind ADIMAY, to the show. Aditi explores the crossroads of artistic expression and social action on ADIMAY, and has a focus on style, sustainability, and social politics.

"I think the way we look at sustainable fashion now - it's been a response. So, sustainable fashion exists because the industry is inherently broken, and we could argue that fast fashion has profited off the normalization of exploitation. As we go forward, I think if we work toward a more just industry, that's inherently going to change the definition of sustainability too. It's tied with change, it's tied with being critical about how the industry currently stands - so, that's a reflection of who we are as individuals, but also where we stand in larger systems." -Aditi Mayer, founder of ADIMAY In this episode, Aditi shares a bit of her personal backstory, and how she became interested in photography as a form of escapism, and then fused it with her interests in style and sustainability. She shares a powerful experience from the first "sustainable fashion event" she attended, and how it revealed to her a lot of realities of race, class and privilege in the industry.

"I definitely realized that fashion at large is really a microcosm of larger systems of inequality."

Kestrel and Aditi explore three articles in particular, that are featured on ADIMAY, that speak to: ethics vs aesthetics, women of color's representation (and lack of) in sustainable fashion, and the rise of the activist tee.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Poverty Porn + the Western Savior Complex, explored more in Aditi's article, "Western Savior Complex In Artisan Led Fashion"
• "Making Sustainable Sexy Do We Market Aesthetics or Ethics?", article from ADIMAY
• Dominique Drakeford + Melanin & Sustainable Style, listen to our our show with Dominique here >
• "Women Of Color In Sustainable Fashion: Why The Stakes Are Higher", article from ADIMAY
• "The Movement, Commodified: The Rise Of (Pseudo) Activism", article from ADIMAY

Sponsor:
This Conscious Chatter episode is brought to you by GlobeIn.
**Use promo code CONSCIOUSCHATTER for 25% OFF your first Artisan Box with any Premium Artisan Box subscription.

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In episode 110, Kestrel welcomes Rafik Riad, the founder of the Buy Good Feel Good Expo, to the show. Canada's only show bringing together socially- and environmentally-driven businesses, Buy Good Feel Good aspires to make ethical consumption the norm, inspiring all businesses to operate for the common good.

"Social enterprises so far are not playing the role they can play towards eradicating poverty, promoting social justice and advancing environmental stewardship. " -Rafik Riad, founder of the Buy Good Feel Good Expo In this episode, Rafik shares a powerful story about how he got the opportunity to spend time in the garbage collector's community in Cairo, Egypt as a child. The impact this experience had on Rafik opened his eyes to social justice from an early age, and still influences the work he does today.

With the slogan of "businesses that change the world", Rafik and his team are working to build the Buy Good Feel Good Expo into a space to truly help young socially conscious brands get access to brands and shoppers that are looking for them. Rafik gives us an understanding of what the Expo is really like, and some of the stories behind the brands and products that will be showcased there this year.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Cairo's Garbage Collector's Community
• African Bronze Honey Company (company working with 10K beekeepers in Zambiam featured at the Expo)
• Roota (organization that works with the garbage collectors in Cairo, featured at the Expo)
• Mata Traders (Fair Trade dress company featured at the Expo)
• Tenfed (every item = ten meals, featured a the Expo)
• Buy Good Feel Good Expo 2018: May 11th-13th in Toronto

Sponsor:
This Conscious Chatter episode is brought to you by GlobeIn.
**Use promo code CONSCIOUSCHATTER for 25% OFF your first Artisan Box with any Premium Artisan Box subscription.

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In episode 109, Kestrel welcomes actor and model Brooklyn Decker, and former ABC & CNN anchor Whitney Casey to show. The cofounders of FINERY, Brooklyn + Whitney have built the world’s first wardrobe operating system that reinvents how women view and interact with their closets, and style themselves.

"Women will spend more money on their clothing than their education [in their lifetime]." -Brooklyn Decker, cofounder of Finery In this episode, Brooklyn and Whitney share a bit about how they ended up building a company focused on fashion - turns out, for both of them, it wasn't really the fashion industry that drew them in. Instead, they were interested in helping women's lives become a bit easier.

Additionally, Brooklyn and Whitney share some of their thoughts on where they hope to take Finery in the future. It looks like not only is helping women utilize what's in their closet a priority, but also, helping women find ways to put the clothes they aren't using back into the system.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Mint, Slice, Tripit: apps that also help simplify your life
• "On average, women only wear 20% of their wardrobe."
• "Half a trillion dollars worth of clothes are hanging unworn in our closets."
• "A detailed survey of almost 2,000 women aged over 16 found that most fashion purchases see the light of day just seven times." (stat Kestrel mentioned - was featured in Daily Mail in 2015)
• "We’re not trying to say, ‘Don’t buy anything.’ We are trying to make you really optimize what you have." - from the below article in Business of Fashion
• "Finery Aims to Succeed Where Other Virtual Closets Have Not", article from Business of Fashion
• The RealReal, Vestiaire, thredUP, Tradesy (secondhand platforms mentioned)
• Explore more about FINERY here >

Recommended Artist From The Intro: Mona Chalabi
(found via Brother Vellies)

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In episode 108, Kestrel welcomes two key players at G-Star RAW to the show - Adriana Galijasevic, their Denim and Sustainability Expert, as well as Frouke Bruinsma, corporate responsibility director at G-Star RAW. A condition for doing business at G-Star RAW today, sustainability has been formally built into the company's framework since 2006.

"SUSTAINABILITY HAS BEEN A CONDITION FOR DOING BUSINESS AND IT'S A CONSTANT WORK IN PROGRESS, SO WE ARE ALWAYS LOOKING FOR THE NEXT SUSTAINABLE INNOVATION AND ALWAYS STRIVING TO SURPASS OUR LATEST SUSTAINABLE ACHIEVEMENTS." -ADRIANA GALIJASEVIC, G-STAR RAW'S DENIM + SUSTAINABILITY EXPERT In this episode, Kestrel asks Adriana + Frouke to share their personal experience with sustainability, as well as the background story G-Star RAW has connected to sustainability. In 2012, G-Star RAW took their sustainable capsule and decided to expand that concept and apply it to their entire line. Since then, sustainability has been a condition for doing business and it's a constant work in progress.

Adriana + Frouke also share a very in-depth and detailed account of the layers of sustainability + circularity that were integrated into the design and manufacturing process behind The Most Sustainable Jeans Ever. As Adriana explains, The Most Sustainable Jeans Ever are a culmination of all of the sustainability work G-Star RAW has been doing formally since 2006; the team developed this project using a holistic approach, and a sustainable lens on every step of the process.

The denim fabric used in this project was certified Gold level by Cradle to Cradle, and one of the most powerful elements of this collection is that G-Star RAW has created open-source access to their sustainable denim fabric-development processes through C2C's Fashion Positive Materials Collection.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• "Cradle To Cradle: Remaking The Way We Make Things", book that impacted Adriana's interest in sustainability
• "If You Care About Ethical Fashion, It's Time To Stop Sleeping On G-Star RAW", article by Whitney Bauck in Fashionista
• Some of the issues with denim manufacturing historically when it comes to sustainability:
• The indigo and the use of sodium hydrosulfites
• Cotton and its water-intensive nature as a crop + throughout the denim manufacturing process
• DyStar®, partner G-Star RAW worked with to develop the cleanest indigo technology for their most sustainable jeans (the process uses 70% less chemicals + 15% less indigo, it doesn't require any hydrosulfites and it produces no salt byproduct in the reduction or the dyeing process)
• Artistic Milliners, partner G-Star RAW worked with in the development of their fabric for the most sustainable jeans
• Saitex, where G-Star produces - "basically the beacon of sustainable manufacturing"
• Bangladesh Accord, one of the first ways the industry started working together to collaborate
• Renewed Denim, new product launching in stores in May (jeans made with upcycled yarns from recycled G-Star RAW jeans)
• EarthColors, launched in November 2017 (in collaboration with Archroma, naturally-dyed jeans, colored with traceable dyestuff derived from recycled plants and nutshells)
• Lena Library, a Fashion Library in Amsterdam where you can "check out" or lease garments

Recommended Reading From Intro:
"Fonts, Colors, Layouts Impact Whether Customers Will Buy From Your Website" via The Fashion Law

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In episode 107, Kestrel welcomes Leah Kirpalani, a certified holistic health coach & the founder of Shop Good, to the show. An online platform as well as freestanding store in San Diego, Shop Good offers clean beauty products for the ultimate healthy lifestyle.

"We absorb 65% of what we put on our body." -Leah Kirpalani, founder of Shop Good In this episode, Leah shares stories from her past experiences with a chronic illness that led her into exploring holistic health and natural beauty products. She reminds us that everyone has a distinct body, and there's not one solution that will work well for us all.

Leah also shares some of her favorite wellness hacks - ways to bring mindfulness into your daily routine without having to add more things to your to-do list.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Leah's Basic Framework For A Healthy Lifestyle:
  1) Simplify
  2) Get Sleep
  3) Drink A Ton Of Water
  4) Move Your Body
  5) Be Mindful About What Your Body Needs
  6) What We Put In And On Our Body Matters
• "There's over 20,000 chemicals introduced into our food systems annually these days ... and we as women are placing up to 500 chemicals on our bodies during our beauty routines."
• "We absorb 65% of what we put on our body."
• Wellness Hacks (shortcuts, tips + tricks to integrate into our lives)
  One that Leah loves: Keep eucalyptus oil in the shower: put a few drops in your hands, place them around you nose/mouth, and take 5 deep belly breaths.
• Shop Good's Foundational Skincare Line: Botnia (the founder is based in Sausalito and grows almost 75% of all of the ingredients in the products in her own backyard)
• Some of Leah's favorite makeup products:
  TMF (Leah's favorite lipstick)
  Alima Pure Satin Matte Foundation
  Lily Lolo Mascara
• Toners: use right after cleansing - they help rebalance the pH in our skin

Suggested Product From The Intro

"Botnia is where it's at. When I first started using 4 of their products (daily face wash, fix zit face mask, toner & hydrating serum), I was skeptical, because my skin was in such a bad spot. But, these babies work, and I've been beyond pleasantly surprised with the results."
-Kestrel's insight after using Botnia in her skincare routine for the last month.
Find the products at Shop Good here >

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In episode 106, Kestrel welcomes Sarah Corbett, founder of the Craftivist Collective, to the show. An inclusive group of people committed to using thoughtful, beautiful crafted works to help themselves and encourage others be the positive change they wish to see in the world, the Craftivist Collective has built a global movement.

Sarah recently released a new book, called How To Be A Craftivist: The Art Of Gentle Protest.

"It's about intriguing people in to open their hearts and minds about an issue, rather than forcing your opinion or preaching to people." -Sarah Corbett, Founder of The Craftivist Collective In this episode, Sarah shares her thoughts on "the art of gentle protest" and how craftivism can be a powerful tool for her, being an introvert, as it allows her to maintain energy and stay activated. She is also careful to note that craft is not the answer to every activist's scenario, and that activism always comes first, with craft being one of the tools to utilize when it makes sense.

Kestrel and Sarah also discuss the unique underlying power of crafting, in how it slows us down, and allows us to think more strategically and with more attention to detail. Sarah sheds light on the distinct way that working with your hands in a group (and not having eye contact) can actually work in everyone's advantage to open up deeper, more challenging conversations.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• How To Be A Craftivist: The Art Of Gentle Protest (Sarah's new book)
• "Craftivism" the word was originally coined in 2003 by writer Betsy Greer
• A Craftivist's Manifesto by the Craftivist Collective
• Liberty, an organization that help campaigners campaign legally
• Ethical Trade Initiative, companies can sign onto it but it isn't a binding agreement
• Labour Behind The Label, a charity that campaigns for garment workers' rights worldwide
• Craftivist Collective Kits
• "Shop Dropping" as featured in the Huffington Post
• ShareAction, campaign organization Sarah worked with on a project to get 50,000 staff paid the living wage
• Lush, cosmetic company that Sarah is working on a project with
• "Activism has to be strategic to be effective - otherwise, it's just screaming in the wind."
• Women's Institute in the UK
• Fashion Revolution, Sarah does a lot of collaborating with them / listen to our show with their cofounder Orsola de Castro here >
• Kate Sheridan, made in UK denim that Sarah mentioned

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In episode 105, Kestrel welcomes Steph Cordes, the Vice Chair of the Cordes Foundation, to the show. Having worked with Conde Nast and luxury fashion brands in the past, Steph now works to advance the Cordes Foundation's ethical fashion and sustainable supply chain initiatives.

"I think my biggest takeaway was that minimum wage isn't a living wage, because they [garment workers she met in Sri Lanka] technically are paid minimum wage but that's not a living wage. They aren't able to have enough money to invest that in their families or their children." -Steph Cordes, Vice Chair of The Cordes Foundation In this episode, Steph shares more on how the Cordes Foundation believes that elevating the role of women is essential to building stronger economies and improving the quality of life for women, men, families and communities.

She also shares some exceptionally powerful stories from the trips she has taken to meet with, and connect with women working in the garment industry around the world. For Steph, she sees a massive disconnect between designers and the actual people making their clothes in the supply chain.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• The Opportunity Collaboration, a collaborative summit put on my the Cordes Foundation
• Elizabeth Cline's book Overdressed, listen to our podcast with her here >
• Soko, a company Cordes Foundation invests in / listen to our episode with them here >
• Pencils of Promise x Soko Collaboration
• Indego Africa, a nonprofit that the Cordes Foundation supports
• Remake, Steph sits on their advisory board / listen to our episode with them here >
• Fashion For Good, a project the Cordes Foundation supports
• Rent The Runway, one of Steph's favorite ways to "shop sustainably"

Recommended Read From The Intro:
Heart Talk by Cleo Wade

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In episode 104, Kestrel welcomes Margaux Rousseau, the Cofounder of WOOLN, to the show. A company that brings together talented New York grandmothers and curious shoppers, WOOLN has a supply chain of senior knitters in New York, who lovingly hand-knit each piece in their collection.

"We have this community of older ladies who sometimes are a bit lonely, they usually stay home, and with WOOLN, they get together, they are part of a project, they have this feeling of belonging. You know, they are all very talented - what they do with their fingers is incredible." -Margaux Rousseau, Cofounder of WOOLN In this episode, Margaux shares more of her story and what led her to have such a kindred alignment with knitting. When it comes to relaxation, she says, "it's even better than yoga for me."

Kestrel also asks Margaux about WOOLN's unique supply chain, from the animal welfare of the alpaca yarn from Peru, to "the grandmas" who knit their designs in New York City. For Margaux, it's all about looking at everyone involved in the process - from the production side to the conscious shoppers on the other side.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Lion Brand, biggest yarn company in the world, Margaux worked for them in the past
• AmyAnn Caldwell of The Good Trade (listen to our Conscious Chatter episode with her here)

Recommended link from the intro:
GlobeIn's Nasty Woman Box
launching on International Women's Day: March 8th, 2018

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In episode 103, Kestrel welcomes Paul Allard, the Founder and President of impak Finance, to the show. With the use of fintech, impak Finance has the intention of helping develop a positive social impact economy. They successfully launched the impak Coin ICO last summer, which is the 1st legal cryptocurrency in North America.

"We're in 2018 - the real economy should all be about the social impact economy - focusing on trying to solve environmental and social issues, while doing money." -Paul Allard, Founder of impak Finance In this episode, Paul explains the different facets of impak Finance, and how their e-wallet, marketplace and impak coins work together toward a goal of supporting the growth of an economy that has a positive social impact.

Additionally, Kestrel asks Paul to dive deeper into blockchain technology, to help us understand more of how it works, and especially, how the technology has the potential to create greater transparency in supply chains.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• UN Sustainable Development Goals, framework of standards that impak Finance uses for their marketplace
• Blockchain Technology: instead of having multiple steps in the digital money exchange validation process (credit cards, etc), blockchain streamlines it into a 1 step authentication process which happens on the cloud. Additionally, traditional multi-step validation processes are expensive, and blockchain massively reduces that cost.
• Humaniq, "a new generation of financial services with its own cryptocurrency, which is aimed at eradicating poverty amongst millions of people living in the emerging economies"
• Beneficial State Bank, founded on a vision to create a sustainable, meaningful community development bank and a supporting nonprofit organization
• Aspiration, "offers socially-conscious and sustainable banking and investing so you can make money while making the world a better place. And, unlike the Big Banks, we don’t use your deposits to fund oil pipelines or turn your fees into campaign contributions to the politicians that work against you."

Recommended reading from the intro:
The State of Fashion 2018 Report
by The Business of Fashion + McKinsey & Company

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In episode 102, Kestrel welcomes Dominique Drakeford, the founder of Melanin & Sustainable Style, to the show. A platform that is bringing melanin to the forefront of sustainable fashion, beauty and living, MelaninASS is helping to give the ethical industry an authentic and culturally relevant voice.

"This whole community is about 'let's talk about what's wrong' - we talk about what's wrong from an environmental point of view, we talk about fast fashion and we point fingers at H&M and we do all this ... but let's look at ourselves and let's talk about some real issues that are wrong because honestly, sustainability is founded on culture - the essence of sustainability is rooted in culture and we don't talk about it." -Dominique Drakeford, Founder of Melanin & Sustainable Style In this episode, Dominique shares a bit of her background and the eclectic experiences that have led her into the sustainable style conversation.

Kestrel and Dominique also discuss the layers behind two notable articles written by Dominique: "Who The Hell Wants To See Only White Women In Sustainable Fashion" and "Why I Think Ethical Fashion Is A Privileged White Girl Thing". Dominique highlights several of the disconnects in the sustainable fashion conversation - from representation to discrimination to tokenism to appropriation to privilege - and how historical relevance and institutional racism are being left out of the discourse.

They talk about the reality of how the ethical fashion space has been dominated by white women, and how privilege and race relations need to play a larger role in our approach to this conversation.

Also, Dominique shares her inspiration behind the Vanguard Series, a project she developed on her platform to highlight "true visionaries and cultural influencers who are creating a positive impact in the fashion, beauty and/or the sustainable lifestyle industry."

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• The GreenShows, a company Dominique worked with in the past
• Donna Karan Urban Zen, a company Dominique worked with in the past
• "You're not really going to create change until you make people uncomfortable."
• "Who The Hell Wants To See Only White Women In Sustainable Fashion" by Dominique
• "Why I Think Ethical Fashion Is A Privileged White Girl Thing" by Dominique, published on Eluxe Magazine
• Food apartheid, as explained in this article: "a relentless social construct that devalues human beings and assumes that people are unworthy of having access to nutritious food"
• Studio 189, one of Dominique's favorite brands, which she also worked with in Ghana
• Chan + Krys, one of Dominique's favorite brands
• Susana Colina, one of Dominique's favorite brands
• Remuse, one of Dominique's favorite brands
• Voz, one of Dominique's favorite brands
• Kowtow, one of Dominique's favorite brands
• Grammar, one of Dominique's favorite brands
• Vanguards Series on Melanin & Sustainable Style
• Dominique's 'Conscious Closets'
• Dominique's YouTube Channel

Recommended reading from the intro:
"Why Fashion Is Key to Understanding the World of Black Panther"
by Tanisha C. Ford in The Atlantic

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In episode 101, Kestrel welcomes trailblazing print textile designer Becky Earley to the show. A designer, researcher, educator and facilitator for circular textiles, Becky is also a key part of the research consortium work for Mistra Future Fashion, as well as the UE Horizon 2020 project Trash2Cash.

"The job and role of the designer is changing radically - you're not just bringing a product to the shop floor anymore - you have to know so much more now about what will happen next." -Becky Earley, Circular Design Expert In this episode, Becky takes us back to some of the history and evolution of her work, including her early "upcycling" projects before the word had even been established. She highlights how she believes the designer plays a unique role moving into the future and how circular design concepts are part of that shift.

Additionally, Becky shares thoughts on how moving forward, she anticipates that the user will have more control and knowledge around the speed of the things in their wardrobe. So, not only will brands ask people to bring things back to the store when they're sick of them, but products will actually be created to move at different speeds in your wardrobe. As Becky says, there will be a need for fast and slow fashion in the future.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• TED (Textiles, Environment, Design): group at Chelsea University that became the origins of what is now considered, the Centre for Circular Design
• Textiles Future Research Centre
• Centre For Circular Design, website coming soon
• Trash2Cash, the EU Horizon 2020 project
• Mistra Future Fashion, research for systemic change in fashion
• Filippa K, a brand that Becky is working on a project for through Mistra Future Fashion
• Textile Toolbox, TED’s web platform project for MISTRA Future Fashion
• Ellen MacArthur Foundation
• Dutch Design Week, where Becky's team for Trash2Cash will be presenting their final prototypes
• Innovations in recycling waste paper into new cellulosic fiber at Aalto University in Finland

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In episode 100, Kestrel welcomes Nadine Farag, the writer behind One Who Dresses, to the show. A website where she slowly explores the question of 'what is style,' One Who Dresses is a digital space dedicated to understanding the intricacies of personal style. Nadine is also known for her sustainable fashion writing for Man Repeller.

"Personal style is an extension of our being. It's another way to understand and articulate who we are in the world." -Nadine Farag of One Who Dresses Throughout this episode, Nadine explores her transition from thinking about sustainability to the art of dressing when it comes to understanding our fashion sense. She also walks us through some of the discoveries she has made about personal style along the way. For Nadine, she believes we're all on this journey of trying to understand who we are and to articulate that to the world around us, and personal style is an extension of who we are, which allows us to enhance that.

Kestrel and Nadine also talk about the way they both used to be "pink haters" and have now become "pink lovers". Kestrel asks Nadine for her thoughts on what draws us to different colors at different points in our lives - is it marketing, exposure, something else? The two discuss different ideas on what inspires those evolving attractions.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• "I have this spontaneous emotional reaction to clothes."
• "Maybe sustainable fashion is really about fashion as an art form."
• "Personal style is an extension of our being. It's another way to understand and articulate who we are in the world."
• Issa Samb, artist Nadine wrote about on the "Meaning Of Objects"
• Story Magazine
• Anja Aronowsky Cronberg of Vestoj
• StyleLikeU
• Advanced Style
• Ike Ude, artist

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In episode 99, Kestrel welcomes Shobha Philips, the CEO and founder of Proclaim, to the show. An ethically-made and inclusively-designed bra collection, Proclaim is expanding the definition of nude by celebrating real women.

"I think that lingerie should be marketed to the women that wear it - celebrating women's bodies of all types, all skin colors, letting women see themselves represented in these images, and feel like they are included and that they are beautiful." -Shobha Philips, CEO + Founder of Proclaim Throughout this episode, Shobha shares insight on the narrow definition of the color nude, and how she's redefining it with Proclaim.

In a past blog post, Shobha wrote: “What started as an annoyance about the color nude turned into something much bigger. It turned into the opportunity to revolutionize an industry. Proclaim is a love letter to women who demand change rather than settling for the status quo.”

Kestrel asks if there are other layers of the lingerie industry that are expired or need to be evolved. Shobha talks about how she believes in taking lingerie out of the bedroom in its marketing, and using visuals that are representative of real women.

Shobha also explains how manufacturing locally, as well as accessible price points, are important to her and the future of Proclaim.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• History of the word nude; referred to in LA Times article about the "nude revolution"
• "Why I Started Proclaim" blog post
• Swedish Stockings, another company challenging the traditional marketing of lingerie

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In episode 98, Kestrel welcomes Janet Wu and Erin Wold, the cofounders of SilkRoll, to the show. The ultimate community to trade and discover high quality fashion from style-mates around the world without spending an extra penny, SilkRoll's vision is to build the world’s largest shared closet.

"The way that the resale space works is that our clothes depreciate really fast in second hand ... the minute you buy something from the retail store, pop the tag, wear it once, and the next day you try to put it on a second hand site to sell it, it's going to be worth less than 50% of what you paid for it." -Janet Wu, cofounder + CEO of SilkRoll Throughout this episode, Janet and Erin provide insight into why they decided to build their business, using digital currency instead of dollars as their primary currency. And, they explain why they believe SilkRoll has large potential for scalability.

Additionally, Kestrel asks Janet and Erin to share their thoughts on the state of fashion, and where they see the sharing economy fitting into the industry at large.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• "SilkRoll is not a traditional resale site or consignment site, and it's not rental."
• Based on SilkRoll's research, there are about $900 billion worth of women's clothing alone, sitting in America's closets, not being worn.
• "Women spend over $200 billion a year in America on clothing and apparel."
• "Right now, we wear on average 20% of what's in our closet."
• If interested, you can request a SilkRoll trade-in kit here
• SilkRoll recently opened up the opportunity for anyone to invest in their company through the Republic platform. If interested, you can make an investment to SilkRoll here

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In episode 97, Kestrel welcomes Kelly Wang Shanahan, the founder of The Ziran, to the show. A Los Angeles-based label which offers a new line of luxury silks, The Ziran's mission is to weave tradition into the modern world, leading a new generation to live the Ziran way: natural, spontaneous, and free.

"Fashion is important and it's not only a physical reflection of how you perceive yourself, but also how you want to be perceived. Otherwise we would walk out of the house naked every day. So, every time you put on a piece of clothing, you're making a choice and there aren't a lot of things other than eating food that you choose to do every single day." -Kelly, founder of The Ziran Throughout this episode, Kelly shares insight into the cultural history connected to xiang yun sha silk, and the extensive process behind its creation. Kestrel and Kelly also discuss the pros and cons of manufacturing in Los Angeles, and the challenges that come with building a new luxury label.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Fashion Institute Of Design & Merchandising, where Kelly studied
• Libertine, LA-based label Kelly worked for in the past
• Ziran: in Daoist philosophy, ziran means natural, spontaneous and free, pushing away outside influence + and being authentic to yourself
• Xiang Yun Sha Silk: translates to "perfumed cloud clothing" - it started in the Ming Dynasty in a small region in southern China, and it was made for the elite + wealthy
• The Ziran Way Film (full length coming soon), a documentation of more of the process behind xiang yun sha silk

XIANG YUN SHA SILK * It's made using all natural and sustainable ingredients * It's only made in the south of China in one small region * It's only made 4 months out of the year during the summer when the sun is the hottest * It's dyed up to 30 times, and then coated with iron-rich mud * The combination of the tannins, the dye and the iron in the mud create a chemical reaction and change the composition of the silk - making it wrinkle resistant and antimicrobial * It's a type of peace silk

As mentioned in the introduction, if interested, you can check out CO (Common Objective)'s new report, Why Do Fashion Better: The Facts You Need To Succeed Sustainably In Fashion.

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In episode 96, Kestrel welcomes Hannah Davis, the founder of BANGS shoes, to the show. A footwear company with a social mission and a partnership with Kiva, BANGS believes that "your adventure can help others find theirs".

"I want to provide people opportunities vs things." -Hannah of Bangs Shoes Throughout this episode, Hannah shares more insight into her experience manufacturing abroad, and the realities about where it's possible to actually produce vulcanized shoes. In addition, she expands further on BANGS Shoes' partnership with Kiva, and the way the nonprofit allows companies like BANGS to do good while at the same time, building out their business.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• VF Corporation, company Hannah's business partner worked with in the past (VF Corporation houses brands like Vans, Timberland and more)
• Kiva, BANGS' nonprofit partner
• Microfinance: "the idea of giving someone a loan in small quantities"
• Dan Pallotta's The Way We Think About Charity Is Dead Wrong: a TED Talk that changed Hannah's life

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In episode 94, Kestrel welcomes Anna Lisa Grieve, the co-creator of Recess City, to the show. A lifestyle and travel blog, Recess City is a project by Anna Lisa and her husband Porter. Since September 2017, they have been traveling the world, living in hotels and showcasing ethical fashion brands along the way.

"People suddenly realized that their food came from somewhere and that it mattered how it was made, and I think the same thing is happening in the world of fashion now. And, people are not just looking at clothing as a thing but understanding that there is a person behind it." -Anna Lisa of Recess City Throughout this episode, Anna Lisa shares more on how she got into blogging, and how it has evolved into a business + lifestyle her her and her husband Porter. Also, Kestrel + Anna Lisa discuss the complexities when it comes to defining what "ethical fashion" means. Stay tuned for later in the show when Anna Lisa rounds up some of her favorite ethical fashion brands of the moment.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Tribe Alive, first ethical company that Recess City partnered with, which inspired their shift in focus to all ethical fashion brands
• "First you have to make it, then you have to master it, and then you have to make it matter" - quote mentioned by Anna Lisa which reflects her goals for 2018
• Girlfriend Collective, an ethical brand Anna Lisa loves
• Nisolo, an ethical brand Anna Lisa loves
• Will & Bear, an ethical brand Anna Lisa loves
• "Don't wear what's in, wear it out." - a mindset Anna Lisa and her husband Porter like to live by when it comes to their clothing

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In episode 94, Kestrel welcomes Suzanne Lewis, the founder & designer of Zanni to the show. By reinventing the classic little black dress, Zanni uses technical performance fabrics and manufactures in Los Angeles to create what they call, "dresses for whatever."

"As much as people made fun of the athleisure trend when it came out, I think what we're seeing is that everyone wants to be comfortable, and people want balance. They don't want to have to have one outfit for each activity of the day - they want to have an outfit that works with them." -Suzanne Lewis, Founder & Designer of Zanni Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Suzanne discuss where performance fabrics fit into the fashion industry today. Suzanne shares what determined her fabric choice for her dresses, and more on what polyamide elastanes are comprised of.

Suzanne opens up about the difficulty in finding the best feeling fabric for her dresses, and how while she wants to bring recycled poly options into her pieces down the line, she hasn't found the best fit for her designs yet. For Suzanne, the longevity and usability of a design is her top priority.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Maker's Row, platform Suzanne used to help in her sourcing process
• Polyamide Elastane, fabric used in Zanni's dresses
• Reformation's Factory Tours in LA
• Fashion Tech Forum, event held near LA, October 2017
• Island Earth, documentary Kestrel mentions in the intro

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In episode 93, Kestrel welcomes Eileen Mockus, the CEO of Coyuchi, and Margot Lyons, Coyuchi’s Sustainability + Production Manager to the show. A home textile company that is committed to using minimally processed organic & natural fibers, Coyuchi also has a human commitment to the hands that touch each product.

"We do sense that the customer is looking for newness, and this allows them to have that newness but at the same time, gives us the ability to take that product back and do something else with it." -Eileen Mockus, CEO of Coyuchi on Coyuchi For Life Throughout this episode, Kestrel explores Coyuchi's evolving business model with Eileen and Margot. They also focus on the complexities of finding organic linen, and how Coyuchi discovered a small group of farmers in Europe who are growing organic flax, and using it as a rotational crop. Apparently, the organic flax regenerates their fields for the organic food crops that are their primary source of income.

Additionally, Kestrel, Eileen and Margot discuss Coyuchi's recently launched Coyuchi For Life program, which is a circular subscription service for linens. As they say, "new linens, no landfills". Coyuchi has collaborated with The Renewal Workshop to help close the loop on this project.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Patagonia, Eileen's first job out of college
• Pottery Barn, Eileen worked with their team to bring organic cotton into their offering
• GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), an important standard for Coyuchi
• Fair Trade USA Standard, specific to factory workers - used by Coyuchi
• Fair Trade International, specific to farmers - used by Coyuchi
• Coyuchi For Life, their approach to transition to a circular business model
• Renewal Workshop, Coyuchi's partner in their circular program
• Environmental Working Group, laundry recommendations

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In episode 92, Kestrel welcomes Lyn Slater, the woman behind Accidental Icon, to the show. A cultural influencer, professor, model, writer, content creator and speaker, Lyn has been featured in Women’s Wear Daily, Refinery29, WhoWhatWear, and more. She shares the true story of how she got the name Accidental Icon, and how it wasn't as much of an accidental story as the press has led us to think.

"She is the woman who ... does not consume garments, she lives her life in them and dresses honestly." -Lyn Slater, Accidental Icon Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Lyn discuss ideas around whether or not fashion and consumption innately have to go hand-in-hand. Lyn shares her distinct thoughts on personal style or "no style", and how she's always been interested in the connection between dressing and identity. Additionally, Lyn outlines how she has always used fashion in what she calls a "performative way" to express her identity at any given time in the world.

For Lyn, she has never let her education get stagnant - she is always pushing forward to keep up, to understand more, and to continue to learn.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Yohji Yamamoto, designer Lyn often wears
• Orange Fiber, by Ferragamo
• Parsons School Of Design, building their fashion program around sustainability
• "It's also for me a really supreme act of creativity - I get a lot of pleasure from composing an outfit. It's almost like sculpting and clothes and accessories are my materials that I use." -Lyn
• "I'm experimenting with who I am, and I'm doing it every day and all the time, and clothes are a big part of it." -Lyn
• Tavi Gevinson, Editor-In-Chief of Rookie Magazine
• The Crossroads of Should And Must by Elle Luna
• "Remember you're always an educator, but not a lecturer." -Lyn
• The Craftivist Collective, UK-based gentle activism approach to change

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This week's Conscious Chatter episode is brought to you by: Soluna Collective,an eco and ethical design company that makes products for your home. As a company, they respect the environment and the people living in it.

INTERESTED IN CHECKING IT OUT?
Use promo code CONSCIOUSCHATTER for an exclusive 15% discount off of your Soluna Collective order!

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In episode 91, Kestrel welcomes Harper Poe, the founder of Proud Mary, to the show. By partnering with global artisans to design modern goods using age-old techniques, Proud Mary grants local artisans an exponentially larger audience, while bolstering the creative industry within their communities.

"People are going to keep buying clothes - that's not going to slow down, I don't think ... I think it's hard from a marketing point of view when both of those things are lumped together because artisan made and factory production are two very different things." -Harper Poe, founder of Proud Mary Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Harper discuss the evolution of Proud Mary, and the newest direction Harper has taken the company in shifting to a direct-to-consumer model. They also explore the intricate differences between artisan made and ethical factory production, especially when it comes to whether or not this is something shoppers are paying close attention to.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Aid To Artisans, a group Proud Mary worked with in their early years
• Nest, a group Proud Mary worked with in their early years
• Design Sponge, mentioned by Harper as part of the early blogger craze
• West African Trade Hub, helped Proud Mary develop a partnership with an artisan group in Mali
• Units / Multiples, modular clothing store in the '80s
• Interview of Kestrel on Proud Mary, which outlines several topics discussed in this chat
• Proud Mary's Rafia Shoe Styles, a popular item
• Proud Mary's knitwear collection, made in Bolivia

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This week's Conscious Chatter episode is brought to you by: Soluna Collective,an eco and ethical design company that makes products for your home. As a company, they respect the environment and the people living in it.

INTERESTED IN CHECKING IT OUT?
Use promo code CONSCIOUSCHATTER for an exclusive 15% discount off of your Soluna Collective order!

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In episode 90, Kestrel welcomes Davis Smith, the CEO and founder of Cotopaxi to the show. A brand that creates innovative outdoor products and experiences, Cotopaxi works to fund sustainable poverty relief, move people to do good, and inspire adventure.

"Originally I think ... it was the grantmaking ... where we were going to have our impact, but as we've started to put together these impact reports, I'm seeing that a lot of the impact that we're having is actually through our purchasing power, it's through our supply chain. " -Davis Smith, founder + CEO of Cotopaxi Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Davis discuss Cotopaxi's business model, and Davis shares more on his intention with the company to use business to alleviate poverty - through what they like to call "holistic development".

Davis also shares more on how Cotopaxi has built partnerships with llama farmers in Bolivia, and how they use llama wool as insulation in some of their jackets (instead of down or some kind of synthetic insulation).

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• The Wharton School, where Davis received his MBA
• 3 pillars Cotopaxi addresses in their work toward poverty alleviation: Healthcare, Education + Livelihood Training
• Proximity Designs, Myanmar-based nonprofit Cotopaxi works with
• Educate Girls, India-based nonprofit Cotopaxi works with
• Questival, outdoor adventure race held all over the U.S. + hosted by Cotopaxi

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In episode 89, Kestrel welcomes Christina Stembel, the founder of Farmgirl Flowers, to the show. An online floral shop that is dedicated to creating good jobs, Farmgirl Flowers is also focused on maintaining a sustainable supply chain, and minimizing waste in the floral industry.

"INSTEAD OF HAVING 40-60% WASTE OF FLOWERS, WE HAVE LESS THAN 1% WASTE." -CHRISTINA, FOUNDER OF FARMGIRL FLOWERS

Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Christina chat about the complicated supply chain behind the floral industry, and the impact it has on farmers, and the environment - especially when it comes to waste.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• 40% of cut flowers are thrown away in the U.S. because the shops can't sell them before they die.
• Flower shops must up-charge their bouquets in order to compensate for the flowers that are expected to be wasted.
• Ritual Roasters, first place Christina sourced burlap coffee bags from for their flower wraps.
• Christina took inspiration from In-N-Out Burger, because they were doing one thing really well; when she launched Farmgirl Flowers, the "less is more" trend hadn't taken off yet.

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This week's Conscious Chatter episode is brought to you by: Soluna Collective,an eco and ethical design company that makes products for your home. As a company, they respect the environment and the people living in it.

INTERESTED IN CHECKING IT OUT?
Use promo code CONSCIOUSCHATTER for an exclusive 15% discount off of your Soluna Collective order!

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In episode 88, Kestrel welcomes Annette Lasala Spillane, the founder and CEO of TARA (The Artisan Row Accessories), to the show. Known for their buildable fine jewelry, TARA intentionally designs each piece so it stands beautifully on its own, but can also be stylishly interchanged with with other pieces in their collection.

Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Annette chat about the era of customization, whether it's here to stay, and in what capacity. They also discuss individual ideas of personal style, and innovative ways to make the clothes in your closet go a long way.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Will Mass Customization Work For Fashion? -via Business of Fashion
• “I don’t think that complete free-for-all, white canvas customisation works. What works is certain parameters that a designer has left for the consumer. It’s potentially 10 or 20 percent designed by the customer, enough that it feels individual, without tampering with the creative direction of the brand.” -Jose Neves, the founder and CEO of Farfetch, in the above article
• Gemological Institute Of America, where Annette took a class when she decided to build TARA
• Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation, event where the early beginnings of TARA were born

This week's Conscious Chatter episode is brought to you by: ARC Apparel.

ARC Apparel is an online marketplace for responsible fashion. They do the research and source brands that are doing notable things in the industry, in the realms of sustainability, ethics, and giving back.

INTERESTED IN CHECKING IT OUT?
Use promo code consciouschatter20 for an exclusive 20% discount off of your ARC Apparel order!

Now through December 24th, 2017, 5% of their sales will go toward sponsoring families through the YMCA Holiday Giving Program.

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In episode 87, Kestrel welcomes Eric Korman, the CEO and Founder of PHLUR, an Austin-based startup that is the first all-digital fragrance company.

With PHLUR, customers get an immersive online experience where they can view images, playlists and horoscope-like descriptions to choose their fragrance style without actually having to smell it first. Apparently, it's scientifically proven that humans smell first with their eyes.

"One thing that's kind of crazy about the fragrance category is that brands aren't legally required to disclose what they put in the bottle." -Eric, CEO of PHLUR Eric shares insight into the psychology of scent, and how these concepts drove his framework for building his company.

• The second you spray fragrance on your body, the scent begins to evolve because your body is a little heater.
• Dr. Rachel Herz, expert on the psychology of scent
• Anne Serrano McClain, helps develop PHLUR's scents
• IUCN Red List, list of endangered + threatened plant species, which are all prohibited from being used in PHLUR's products
• Scent is damaged by light, which is strange when 98% of the perfumes on the market are showcased in clear glass bottles. Turns out, brands typically add the preservative BHT to counteract this. PHLUR uses opaque bottles instead, and doesn't have to add anything extra.
• Made Safe, certification body
• EWG, Environmental Working Group
• Bioaccumulation
• Leaping Bunny, cruelty-free badge
• In 2017, only 4 or 5% of the fragrance category is purchased online, which is extremely low compared to other categories today.

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Wear Your Values: The Global Premiere of Riverblue Join me on Sunday, November 19th for the international premiere of the RiverBlue documentary. In collaboration with Remake, GlobeIn, Coyuchi, Fashion Revolution and Wildlife Works, the event will take place at the Roxie Theater. Following the screening, I'll be moderating a brief Q&A with industry experts from Remake, GlobeIn and Coyuchi.

Get Your Tickets Here

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In episode 86, Kestrel welcomes Jessica Marati Radparvar, the founder of Reconsidered, to the show. A boutique consultancy that helps organizations build impactful social responsibility strategies, communications and community, Reconsidered is all about driving positive behavior change.

"Reconsidering and just taking a second look at things that we've always taken for granted is something that's so needed in this day-in-age, because business as usual is not an option - it simply isn't." -Jessica of Reconsidered Throughout this chat, Jessica shares stories about her path, and how she has found herself enthralled with the social impact conversation, and especially, innovative approaches to shifting behavior.

She shares her thoughts on where we are today when it comes to telling the sustainable fashion story, and where she thinks we can improve moving forward.

Sign up for Jessica's bomb bi-weekly newsletter that features thought-provoking content on corporate responsibility, sustainability and social impact.

Here are a few of the people, projects and ideas brought up throughout this chat:

• Lynn Yaeger, former colleague of Jessica + current writer for Vogue.com
• Quirky, company Jessica worked for, that believes the "best product ideas in the world come from real people like you"
• Michael Posner + Sarah Labowitz, cofounders of The NYU Stern Center for Business and Human Rights
• Change Management
• BSR + Futerra Report on "Selling Sustainability"
• BBMG Five Human Aspirations Report
• Tom's VR Experience, integrated into their giving trip
• Fashion For Good, project based in Amsterdam Jessica is currently working with

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In episode 85, Kestrel welcomes AmyAnn Cadwell, the Cofounder & Editor-in-Chief of The Good Trade, to the show. A digital media company featuring brands, products & ideas dedicated to social good, The Good Trade is known for its elevated aesthetics and accessible writing style.

"We're all on different places on the spectrum, and our goal is to really come meet people where ever they are with maybe that next step or that helpful story or that helpful point of action that kind of meets them right where they are." -AmyAnn, cofounder of The Good Trade Throughout this chat, AmyAnn shares her interesting path into the conscious fashion and lifestyle world. She also shares her thoughts on what social good means to her, and how she's building it into the framework of The Good Trade.

Also, AmyAnn shares insight into creating a platform with aesthetics in mind, and the importance she and her team place on visuals within their storytelling.

Here are a few of the things brought up throughout this chat:

• What It's Truly Like To Be A Fashion Model, New York Times
• Social Good, according to the Bill + Melinda Gates Foundation
• Development Economics

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This week's episode is brought to you by GlobeIn, who deliver joy by empowering and connecting remarkable, remote artisans to mindful customers. They are known for their ARTISAN BOX, a monthly subscription featuring exclusive, handcrafted products from global artisans.

Interested in trying it out?
Get $10 off any GlobeIn Premium Box Subscription with promo code: CONSCIOUSCHATTER.

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In episode 84, Kestrel welcomes Danny Clayton, the founder of Salt Gypsy, to the show. A Byron Bay-based curated surf boutique and independent surf lifestyle supplier, Salt Gypsy celebrates female surf athleticism, diversity and style in the lineup.

"If I as a small business can source and produce gear using a lycra that's made with 78% recycled polyamide, then why are not mainstream brands or bigger businesses using that as well; why is it not industry standard?" Throughout this conversation, Danny shares the backstory of how Salt Gypsy evolved into a brand that offers iconic surf leggings as well as surf gear for the discerning woman of the ocean.

For Danny, she spends a lot of time in the water, so she wanted to create something that could protect her skin from the sun, but also help her look cool in the lineup.

Additionally, Kestrel and Danny discuss the (un)sustainability of the traditional surf industry. From the foam and resin in the making of the boards to the surf wax, there’s a lot of petroleum that goes into an industry that is associated with spending quality time in the natural world. But, innovations are on the horizon, and Danny shares her thoughts on how she believes more sustainable surf product options are coming to the market.

Tune in to hear more about the evolution of Salt Gypsy, Danny's open approach to discussing the struggles of being a small business, and the unknowns connected to the microfiber issue.

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This week's Conscious Chatter episode is brought to you by GlobeIn.

GlobeIn delivers joy by empowering and connecting remarkable, remote artisans to mindful customers. They are known for their ARTISAN BOX, a monthly subscription featuring exclusive, handcrafted products from global artisans.

Interested in trying it out? Get $10 off any GlobeIn Premium Box Subscription with promo code: CONSCIOUSCHATTER.

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In episode 83, Kestrel welcomes Matt Scanlan, the CEO and cofounder of Naadam, to the show. Naadam is a fashion label that responsibly sources and produces luxury knitwear while preserving nomadic lifestyles in Mongolia.

"It's all about an equitable agreement where they're [nomadic herders] getting something and we're getting something; we get better material, they get a level of economic sustainability that didn't exist before."

In this chat, Matt shares the wild story of how he and his cofounder ended up finding themselves literally in the world of cashmere, through the friendships they made with nomadic herders in Mongolia. He also walks us through why the traditional cashmere industry had been rigged in the past.

A couple of notes from the chat:

• Naadam doesn't have any contracts with the nomadic herders they work with; instead out in the countryside, as Matt explains, "what matters is the respect, the honor, the trust, the loyalty - that's how you build the relationships"
• Hand combing is a humane and traditional process; it is done on the under belly and under the chin of the goat, and has been done for thousands of years
• Shearing uses electric clippers and can tear up the goats' skin and can be very painful
• It takes the fiber from about 4 goats over the course of 1 year to make 1 sweater.

How To Care For Your Cashmere * Hand wash and lay flat to dry
(Matt suggests the Laundress products because they are cleaner and work well) * Pilling of cashmere in normal; for de-pilling, you can use a razor to cut them off

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This week's episode is sponsored by GlobeIn.

GlobeIn delivers joy by empowering and connecting remarkable, remote artisans to mindful customers. They are known for their ARTISAN BOX, a monthly subscription featuring exclusive, handcrafted products from global artisans.

Get $10 off any GlobeIn Premium Box Subscription with promo code: CONSCIOUSCHATTER.

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In episode 82, Kestrel welcomes two guests to the show: the Chief Operating Officer at Project Just Jacinta Fitzgerald, and Riz Smith, the founder and creative director of the London-based swimwear label Riz.

Recently, Riz was awarded a Project Just Seal of Approval for their swimwear category. Kestrel had the opportunity to sit on the committee to help make this decision, which led her to bring both Jacinta and Riz on to talk about Project Just's Seal of Approval process.

In this chat, Kestrel gets the chance to ask Jacinta her thoughts on what the committee loved about Riz, as well as some of the areas they think Riz could work on to enhance his brand. Riz shares his thoughts on the Project Just Seal of Approval process, and reveals how open he is to constructive criticism.

Here are some of the ideas, topics or thoughts that came up throughout the conversation:

• Project Just Seal Of Approval Categories
• "Refined Flamboyancy": how Riz describes his sense of style
• Rizcycling Program

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This week's Conscious Chatter episode is brought to you by: GlobeIn. Known for their ARTISAN BOX, a monthly subscription featuring exclusive, handcrafted products from global artisans, GlobeIn delivers joy by empowering and connecting remarkable, remote artisans to mindful customers.

Interested in trying it out? Get $10 off any GlobeIn Premium Box Subscription with promo code: CONSCIOUSCHATTER.

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In episode 81, Kestrel welcomes Accompany founder & CEO Jason Keehn, and VP of Special Projects at Accompany, Kara Gerson, to the show. Accompany is a fashion online marketplace supporting developing communities around the world.

"There is such an overwhelming amount of choice for the consumer that having an editorial point of view on what's out there and bringing it all together in one place makes it feel more inspiring and emotional, as well as just more convenient." Jason and Kara share their past experiences in fashion, and how they both saw an opening in the market for a platform that brings together styles that have more meaningful stories behind them. They also share more about their recent collaboration with Target.

Below are some of the ideas, initiatives and concepts that Jason + Kara brought up in this chat:

• Experiential Retail
• Accompany Us To Target Partnership
• Nest: a nonprofit committed to the social and economic advancement of global artisans and homeworkers through supply chain transparency, sustainable business development, and widespread industry advocacy
• Mercado Global, partner of Accompany based in Guatemala

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In episode 80, Kestrel welcomes Evelyn Mora, the founder of Helsinki Fashion Week to the show. An event where international and nordic fashion meet in Finland, Helsinki Fashion Week also focuses on sustainable production and an ecological mindset.

Evelyn believes that fashion, style and individualism really are trending at the moment, and will continue to do so.

Below are some of the ideas, initiatives and concepts that Evelyn brought up in this chat:

• Infinited Fiber Company
• Tanya Solovey, Vogue Ukraine
• Finnish Environmental Institute
• Amos Anderson Museum, venue for 2017 Helsinki Fashion Week
• Uneins, brand by a German-born Finnish-based designer
• August, an Estonian brand
• Mem by Paola Malleus
• Makia, Helsinki-based sustainable fashion brand
• "Multi-local": person who is a local in more than one place

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SUPPORT CONSCIOUS CHATTER
Want to help support this conversation? I big-time appreciate it! Here are some ways to help:
+ Download our episodes!
+ Subscribe to Conscious Chatter on iTunes or your favorite podcast app!
+ Leave us a review on iTunes!

Thanks again for being part of this growing, connected community. :) -Kestrel

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In episode 79, Kestrel welcomes Agnes Muljadi, a Los Angeles based vegan ballerina, actress, photographer and celebrity blogger, to the show. Agnes has been the face of an array of brands including Amazon, NFL, Starbucks, Reebok, Toms Shoes and Kind Snacks.

"MY NATUROPATH TOLD ME IMMEDIATELY YOU HAVE TO BECOME VEGAN TODAY, AND I JUST BECAME VEGAN. I LITERALLY BECAME VEGAN IN A DAY." -AGNES MULJADI In this chat, Agnes shares insight into what her life as a ballerina looks like, and how she became vegan, basically overnight.

Kestrel also asks Agnes about her position as a social media influencer. As influencers continue to take more of a headlining role for brands and their marketing platforms, Kestrel is always curious about where and when authenticity will rise to the top.

If an influencer promotes a food product, and never actually eats it, can we tell that? If they push a pair of shoes that they would never actually want to wear, are we going to be able to realize that, as outside followers? AND, if an influencer has a socially conscious approach to their lifestyle, how do they pick and choose which brands to work with?

Agnes believes that there is a dangerous line to walk when it comes to building the right partnerships and maintaining your authenticity with your audience.

Here are a couple of the people and ideas Agnes brough up throughout this chat:

• Pea Protein, a vegan protein supplement
• Alessandra Ferri, one of Agnes's favorite dancers; she is defying the "age expectation" in ballet

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NYC EVENT ALERT

Wear Your Values, hosted by Remake + Oslo Freedom Forum on September 14th, 2017

Thoughts from Remake's founder Ayesha Barenblat on her hopes for the event:

"Too often the 60+ million mostly women who make our clothes, the human hands behind our fashion, are a forgotten in the glamour and glitz of fashion week. Our immersive art, film and VR tech hope to bring her back into fashion revelers consciousness in a way that doesn't paint her as a victim. But instead as the fierce, hard working girl boss that she is. So first and foremost we want NYC fashionistas, emerging designers and press to remember and celebrate the end maker. We want consumers to come away inspired and wanting to be die hard fans of the conscious fashion brands we are celebrating. We want the emerging designers coming from FIT, Pratt and Parsons to be inspired to design with intention. And we want press to not just write about the next pretty collection, what Kim Kardashian is wearing to the shows or fashion's fleeting attempts at activism be it supporting the ACLU or Planned Parenthood. We want press to instead connect the fashion world to the women who bring our fashion to life and to shine a spotlight on designers who are embracing transparency and addressing human rights in the industry. These "woke" designers are the ones we should be celebrating because the future of fashion has to be conscious".

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In episode 78, Kestrel welcomes Nellie Cohen, the Worn Wear Program Manager at Patagonia, to the show. Patagonia's Worn Wear program aims to reduce environmental impacts by encouraging people to change their relationship to stuff, through repair and reuse of what they already have, and by celebrating quality and durability.

Patagonia's largest repair center is in Reno, Nevada, and they did 50,000 repairs there in 2016. Nellie shares some of the history on Worn Wear, and how it evolved from Patagonia's earlier roots with Common Threads. It's a pretty cool story how Worn Wear originated from a blog that Patagonia surf ambassador Chris Malloy and his wife Lauren had started separately.

Nellie also elaborates on the scale of Patagonia's Worn Wear, and the number of employees that are dedicated to mending and building out the company's program.

For Nellie, celebrating the stories behind the pieces we wear is huge - she's especially a fan of the family heirloom stories that can be attached to Patagonia's past styles.

Throughout this chat, Nellie brings up the below companies, ideas and projects:

• Worn Wear
• Teijin, Patagonia partnered with Teijin in the early stages of Common Threads to recycle their capilene line, in a closed loop chemical recycling process
• Don't Buy This Jacket campaign in the New York Times, Black Friday, 2011
• Jay Nelson, artist behind the Worn Wear wagon
• I Fix It, a company Patagonia partnered with to create their repair manuals
• Patagonia's Repair Manuals
• Yerdle, a company Patagonia invested in through their venture capital arm; they make it easy for brands to buy back and resell used items
• Nellie gave a shoutout to the work Renewal Workshop is doing when it comes to closing the loop
  You can listen to our episode with their cofounder Nicole here >
• The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Reports on The Circular Economy

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Amazon just launched a 500 piece fast fashion collection.
What does this mean? How do you think this will impact the future of fashion? Will sustainability play a role in their upcoming endeavors?

Check out The Fashion Law's article to learn more.

Also, chime in on Instagram @consciouschatter and let me know how you think this move will make an impact on what comes next for fashion.

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In episode 77, Kestrel welcomes Celia Bernardo, the founder and creative visionary behind CeliaB, to the show. A Spanish brand founded in 2012, CeliaB releases seasonless collections that showcase inspiration from Celia's travels around the world and celebrate unique global talents.

"I mean it's wealth to our aesthetic diversity in the world." -Celia, on the importance of celebrating independent designers After working for fast fashion brands like Zara, Celia broke off to build her own unique brand in an effort to push for quality over quantity in the fashion world. Throughout this chat, Celia shares thoughts on how she thinks we've lost an appreciation for the true cost of beautiful, quality designs, and how she believes in bringing innovative and different garments to the world, giving people new ways to envision the idea of "dressing".

Celia calls herself a "Rainbow Warrior," and she's on a mission to combat the corporate world from conquering everything with its homogeneous approach.

"It's important for me to give credit to the people [designers] that are doing something different."

A couple of the designers Celia mentions in the show:

• Natacha Duarte, former colleague at Zara and print designer she has collaborated with
• Maria Luque, illustrator from Argentina, collaborated with Celia

_______________________________________________________________________________ KAMEA CHAYNE is the creative behind Konscious Whispers, an eco lifestyle blog.

She also wrote the book Thrive, An environmentally conscious lifestyle guide to better health and true wealth and is a rockstar wellness coach. Check out her work below:

• Konscious Whispers
• Thrive, the book
• Kamea Chayne, wellness coaching

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In episode 76, Kestrel welcomes Anna-Mieke Anderson, the CEO of MiaDonna, to the show. An ethical and affordable bridal jewelry line, which crafts its pieces with the finest lab-grown diamonds, gemstones and recycled metals, MiaDonna is pushing to change what the diamond industry looks like by going beyond "conflict-free".

"It's estimated that 30 million American women have purchased a conflict diamond." -Anna-Mieke, CEO of MiaDonna In this chat, Kestrel asks Anna-Mieke to share her insight on what conflict-free means to her, and how MiaDonna thinks about standards when it comes to diamonds and gemstones. Anna-Mieke breaks down some of the science when it comes to the differences between lab-grown diamonds, diamond hybrids and lab-grown gemstones.

Additionally, Anna-Mieke explains how she built MiaDonna and the company's sister foundation, The Greener Diamond, in conjunction so they could collaboratively work together.

Some of the certifications, definitions and statistics that Anna-Mieke shared throughout this chat:

• Kimberley Process: certification scheme put in place in 2003
• The 4 C's: clarity, cut, color and carat size
• Type I vs Type II Diamonds
• 98% of diamonds mined will be a Type I diamond
• FluxFusion Method: allows you to get the internal structure identical to the gem; used by MiaDonna

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In episode 75, Kestrel welcomes Executive Director of The C&A Foundation, Leslie Johnston, to the show. The C&A Foundation is a corporate foundation pushing to transform the fashion industry.

The C&A Foundation's mission is "to inspire belief that change is possible, and to support those initiatives that can drive that change." From Leslie's perspective, the big way to push the needle when it comes to the fashion industry, is through a business to business play. While customer education is key, Leslie believes that the brands, retailers and manufacturers really need to step up and act differently. And as she acknowledges, within the industry, these players have been stepping it up in recent years.

Leslie shares insight on how currently, the data from supply chains is living in a collection of separate silos. One of the ways that the C&A Foundation is working to collaborate with others in the industry is by finding ways to accurately aggregate the information, so people can access it. One of the partners they are working on this project with is SourceMap.

Throughout this conversation, Leslie brings up several organizations and initiatives that the C&A Foundation is working with on some capacity. These are outlined below:

• Organic Cotton Accelerator
• New Foresight
• Sumangali Scheme + Bonded Labor in India
• Labor Link + Labor Voices: allow C&A and others to hear directly from workers, with realtime supply chain data
• Global Fund For Women
• Thomson Reuters
• Forum For The Future

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In episode 74, Kestrel welcomes Tim Scott, the cofounder and CEO of Mitscoots Outfitters to the show. An Austin based clothing company, Mitscoots Outfitters is on a mission to outfit & employ the homeless.

With every piece of American made gear you purchase, Mitscoots will give an equal quality item to someone in need and employ the transitioning homeless to package things up. Gear with a mission: Get + Give + Employ. In this chat, Tim shares some of his story, how he learned more about the homeless population in Austin, and what really led him to launch Mitscoots. Also, Kestrel asks Tim about his thoughts on how the 1for1 model has evolved since it first gained speed through the Toms shoes approach.

For Tim, when it comes to making an impact, it's all about working together with partners that are highly knowledgable and skilled in particular areas. As he says, "I don't ever think an organization or company can entirely solve a problem on their own."

For Tim, it's about collaboration, and working with other partners simultaneously to fill those gaps, so the entirely of the problem can be eventually addressed.

• Mobile Loaves & Fishes: a mobile food & clothing truck for the homeless, that Tim has volunteered with in the past; he realized how quickly they would run out of clothing, and decided there was a need for Mitscoots

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In episode 73, Kestrel welcomes Céline Semaan Vernon, the CEO of Slow Factory to the show. Slow Factory is a mission-driven independent fashion label & lab that creates beautiful accessories, clothes and jewelry while directly supporting environmental and humanitarian causes. All work is fair-trade and manufactured with eco-friendly ink and fabrics.

"Fashion activism is the practice of using fashion as a means of social change. It merges popular styles of dress, from clothing and shoes, to headwear and accessories, with efforts to implement social and political change. Fashion activism can be used as a form of protest, whether expressing dissent or support." -"Fashion Activism" by Céline, Wikipedia Throughout this chat, Céline shares insight into what fashion activism means to her, and why buzz words aren't enough in pushing for change in the fashion industry. She also shares her thoughts on the open web - unfiltered/unorganized information - and how she is an open web actovate.

Kestrel asks Céline about her creative process and what inspires her collections. Céline explains that leaving her annual collections somewhat open-ended allows for more of an ability to react in a creative way to political or cultural situations that arise.

"You can't be creative in a vacuum ... well, you can but then you're completely disconnected from what's happening."

Below are a list of other ideas, blog posts or organizations that were discussed throughout this chat:

• Overview effect
• Fashion Activism (Céline's Wikipedia entry)
• Read "Fair Trade Is Not Enough" on Slow Factory
• Read "Open Web" on Slow Factory
• ANERA
• Are We There Yet? #WeAreHome Documentary -> You can watch here!

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In episode 72, Kestrel welcomes Isadora Alvarez, the creator of Back Beat Rags, to the show. Isadora created her company as a reaction to some of the negative experiences she had working for an off-price retailer in LA. She created her business - Back Beat Rags - in a way that was the total opposite of the previous company she worked for. Isadora specializes in making what she calls: "low impact goods".

Every piece in the Back Beat Rags collection is under $70 dollars. Throughout this chat, Isadora walks us through the process of creating her garments via her super local supply chain, and how much she loves having close relationships with the people who make her clothes. She also shares insight on building a sustainable fashion brand with affordability in mind.

Tune in to hear tips on how to build a sustainable brand with lower price points in mind, and to hear how Isadora thinks people are "shying away from fast fashion".

Eco Warrior Princess is a media company that's pushing to change the way we perceive sustainability. Not only does founder Jennifer Nini rock some killer style, but she's also bringing fresh ideas to the sustainability conversation. Check out everything I'm gushing about here: http://ecowarriorprincess.net/

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In episode 71, Kestrel welcomes Gordon Seabury, the CEO of Toad&Co to the show. An outdoor industry lifestyle brand, Toad&Co has a bold mission: “To lead with integrity and weave optimism into everything they do; To create meaningful change through socially and environmentally smart business; and To inspire people to live their fullest lives”.

Toad&Co has a motto: “Dirty is the new clean. Wear more. Wash less.”

Studies suggest that 58% of the energy and 45% of the water that goes into a garment happens post-purchase, so we recommend that you wear your clothing multiple times before washing to save on both natural resources and prolong its life. -Toad&Co

Throughout this chat, Gordon shares insight on how Toad&Co approaches the triple bottom line, when it comes to their materials and the manufacturing throughout their supply chain. In 1997, Toad&Co cofounded Planet Access Company (PAC) to positively change the lives of adults with developmental disabilities by providing them with job training and work opportunities.

Gordon explains how this project has evolved over the years, and led to the creation of the Outdoor Access for All Tour in 2016. In collaboration with the National Park Foundation and Wilderness Inquiry, Toad&Co helped get 1,000 adults with disabilities into national parks in 2016. For Gordon and Toad&Co, people are simply integral to building a business not only their customers, but their employees as well can feel proud to be part of.

Fabrics Gordon + Toad&Co have said NO to:

Rayon
Acrylic
Bamboo

Resources / Companies Gordon mentioned:

Renewal Workshop: Listen to our episode with their cofounder Nicole Bassett.
Planet Access Company: a social enterprise that ships hundreds of thousands of products each year, including those of Toad&Co. Along the way, adults with disabilities ensure items are stored, packaged and shipped properly.

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In episode 70, Kestrel welcomes Linn Frisinger, cofounder of Swedish Stockings to the show. Swedish Stockings produces beautiful pantyhose from 90-98% recycled nylon yarn.

Each year, two billion pairs of tights are produced, worn a few times, and then discarded.

After being inspired by the documentary The Lightbulb Conspiracy, Linn and her cofounder Nadja Forsberg set out to find a better solution for the hosiery industry. In this chat, Kestrel asks Linn about the approach Swedish Stockings has to sustainability and zero waste in their supply chain, as well as their Recycling Club, which addresses the end of life of pantyhose.

Linn also acknowledges the impact that nylon has on our oceans and microplastics issue; she shares how Swedish Stockings is developing a new yarn composed of upcycled plastic from the ocean. When it comes to being able to recycle elastane, Linn believes a solution is close, and hopes we will see one in the near future.

Details on material composition:

Nylon: a man-made polyamide, derived from petrochemicals (a thermoplastic); nylon is not biodegradable and contributes to microplastic pollution in the ocean.

Elastane: a synthetic materials, scientifically described as a thermoplastic polyurethane elastomeric fiber; elastane cannot be easily separated from other materials, due to the way it shifts when heated. Currently, a solution has not been found to recycle fabrics with mixed compositions including spandex.

Resources Linn mentioned:
The Lightbulb Conspiracy: documentary on planned obsolescence
& Other Stories: offers a beauty and textiles recycling program, a brand under the H&M Group

FAIR TRADE FASHION SHOW TICKETS
A fashion show for activists! This unique fundraiser uses fashion as a platform for education and awareness around the realities of modern slavery as well as a space to celebrate the power of everyday purchases to support freedom. Hosted by Bead and Reel, the event will benefit nonprofit Free The Slaves. Kestrel will be moderating the pre-show panel hosted by EcoSessions, which includes: Hoda Katebi of JooJoo Azad, Mike Farid of Nature USA and Jeff Denby of Renewal Workshop. The event will take place in Los Angeles on July 29th, 2017.
Get your tickets here!

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In episode 69 of Conscious Chatter, Kestrel welcomes Alex van Os, eco stylist and founder of Op Shop To Runway to the show. Alex is an Australian Red Cross Op Shop Ambassador and a fashion & TV stylist on a mission: to help people realize that having killer style doesn't mean you have to kill the earth in the process. For her, second hand doesn't mean second best!

Stat from the introduction, found via Elizabeth Cline, author of Overdressed:
Every single minute Americans toss out 47,564 pounds of unwanted clothing and textiles (that’s enough to fill three olympic size pools).

In this chat, Kestrel asks Alex about her background, and how she found herself engulfed in pushing for a less wasteful fashion industry. They also discuss the challenges / balance of working as a mainstream stylist (to make money) + partnering with influencers to bring the sustainable conversation further into the mainstream.

Tune in for Alex's key second hand shopping + styling tricks at 00:24:50 of the episode.

Another really interesting element that arose in this conversation is the idea of heirlooms, and how with the influence of fast fashion, there's a big question of what our generation will pass down to future children, family or friends, when so many things today are built to fall apart or wear out after a few washings. Listen to this part at 00:30:55.

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What change can happen in our lives when we look at the bigger picture, especially when we look through the lens of sustainability (i.e. social, environmental & economic impacts)? When we dive into the deeper meaning[s] of life, we can, or should see how connected we all are. #BTS(behind the scenes) w/ Good Support + Conscious Chatter explores how our choices and actions impact our greater communities. We also discuss ways to start making changes to align ourselves more fully with our beliefs. We will explore all the ways we can get more activated and engaged through quarterly topics like finance, education, healthcare and more. Each episode will feature hosts Gretchen Jones and Kestrel Jenkins as they make connections and discuss how our actions speak louder than our words, through in-depth conversation w/ experts in the field, but more specifically - women slaying it in their chosen field. Join the collective, work the guides and explore how challenging ourselves to be the change we hope to see in the world means learning and living more civically engaged lives.

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What change can happen in our lives when we look at the bigger picture, especially when we look through the lens of sustainability (i.e. social, environmental & economic impacts)? When we dive into the deeper meaning[s] of life, we can, or should see how connected we all are. #BTS(behind the scenes) w/ Good Support + Conscious Chatter explores how our choices and actions impact our greater communities. We also discuss ways to start making changes to align ourselves more fully with our beliefs. We will explore all the ways we can get more activated and engaged through quarterly topics like finance, education, healthcare and more. Each episode will feature hosts Gretchen Jones and Kestrel Jenkins as they make connections and discuss how our actions speak louder than our words, through in-depth conversations w/ experts in the field, but more specifically - women slaying it in their chosen field. Join the collective, work the guides and explore how challenging ourselves to be the change we hope to see in the world means learning and living more civically engaged lives.

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In episode 68, Kestrel welcomes Clare Press, the author of Wardrobe Crisis: How We Went From Sunday Best to Fast Fashion, to the show. Clare is Marie Claire Australia’s fashion editor-at-large, and Daily Life’s Sustainable Style columnist. Clare is a big-time advocate for responsible fashion and sits on the Australian advisory board of Fashion Revolution.

Clare shares her story, and how she feels like what we wear says a lot about what we want to say to the world. For her, we have truly lost our connection with our clothing, and that's part of what's leading us into this "wardrobe crisis".

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In episode 67 of Conscious Chatter, Kestrel welcomes the founder of Luna Zorro, Molly Berry, to the show. As you may have heard, the below quote from Molly has come up in past episodes, when discussing the balance between working with artisans and sharing that story:

It seems to me that the word 'empower' has become a marketing buzz word for many companies to pull the heart strings of the consumer, sometimes to the point of exploitation, manipulating images or stories and convincing people that their single purchase is "changing a life". I work directly with indigenous, Mayan weavers everyday. I need them as much as they need me to make this business work. We stand in a global marketplace together. This is not a charity case and I am not simply "doing them a favor". We are partners. We are creating and designing things by hand and maintaining an ancient tradition that has been all but entirely replaced by machines.

Molly shares her wild and crazy adventures that eventually led her to founding Luna Zorro. Kestrel and Molly also discuss the differences / potential overlaps between artisan made and ethical manufacturing, inspired by a question Harper Poe of Proud Mary asked Kestrel in the past.

Here's a big-time WOW number that came up in the conversation:

According to Triple Pundit, the global artisan market is estimated to be worth $34 billion, and it’s just continuing to grow more. So, it’s probably a good idea that larger companies continue to take note of the global talent in this sector.

Another element that wove its way into the conversation was the importance of aesthetics, photography, and style in the marketing and selling of artisan made goods. For Molly, this is hugely important and it 100% shows through as you scroll through the Luna Zorro Instagram feed.

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In episode 66 of Conscious Chatter, Kestrel welcomes Stefan Siegel, the founder of Not Just A Label to the show. The world’s leading designer platform for showcasing and nurturing today’s pioneers in contemporary fashion, Not Just A Label has been described by Vogue Paris as: “One of the ten most essential websites of today: it inspires, to be ahead of the trends".

Stefan shares his insight on how data and fashion should be collaborating more often, and the potential that exists in that space. He also elaborates on his recent decision to move Not Just A Label physically to Los Angeles. For Stefan, LA is a place that has all the ingredients to redefine what fashion and manufacturing look like by creating a new system.

At the moment, Stefan sees huge power in being able to connect consumers to independent designers, and he sees the way the food industry has rebuilt itself, as inspiration for this change.

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In episode 65 of Conscious Chatter, Kestrel welcome Ayesha Barenblat to the show. The founder of Remake, Ayesha is hugely passionate about the power of storytelling and human connection. Remake is a platform that builds human connections between all of us as people who shop - and the makers whose hands create the fashion we wear.

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In episode 64 of Conscious Chatter, Kestrel welcomes self-taught designer Mia Vesper to the show. While Mia may be a new name to the fashion scene, she’s turning heads left and right. From Vogue to W Magazine to Man Repeller, the big guys are taking note. A 25-year old designer, Mia brings two key elements into her eye-catching designs: reinvention and recycling.

In this chat, Kestrel asks Mia about her approach to design, and how she sources the vintage tapestries that are so integral to the pieces she creates. The two discuss the idea of "having your thing" as a designer, and its importance in today's overly noisy state.

Mia shares her thoughts on a conundrum she's been facing for quite some time now: to build an ethical business or to build a profitable business, and the questions she's faced with on a regular basis, when she wants to build a better brand.

Also, listen to hear some entertaining stories from two fashion-driven women who have roots in Wisconsin.

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In episode 63, Kestrel welcomes Arianne Engelberg, the Creative Director of The New Denim Project to the show. An innovative product line out of Iris Textiles in Guatemala, The New Denim Project makes textiles and products from upcycled pre-consumer denim waste.

Arianne shares stories of the evolution of her family's factory over the years - her grandparents originally started it back in the 1950s. Also, Arianne explains more in detail the process behind the upcycled textiles they have developed, and where the waste they use comes from. In addition, Arianne addresses the way she and the New Denim Project have found creative ways to tackle their own waste from their manufacturing process, as they work to push the limits when it comes to building a closed loop company.

One of Kestrel's highlights from this show was how Arianne explained that she and her team members have discovered over time, that as textile manufacturers, they actually do have a massive amount of power when it comes to helping to shift the future of the fashion industry.

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In episode 62, Kestrel welcomes guests Ian Rosenberger, the founder and CEO of Thread, and Zachary Angelini, the Environmental Stewardship Manager at Timberland. Ian and Zack share some of the stories behind the Thread x Timberland collaboration, which is made of Thread’s Ground to Good™ fabric, harvested from plastic bottles littering the streets and landfills of Haiti.

Kestrel also asks Zack to share his mindset on Timberland's approach to sustainability, especially considering the company's high-reaching goals for 2020, including wanting to have 100% organic, US-origin or better cotton, as well as 100% recycled, organic or renewable materials in their shoes.

Finally, Kestrel asks Ian to share his insight on the microfilament issue, which now tends to arise in any conversation connected to recycled plastic fabrics. Ian's response brings light to other ways of potentially looking at this issue, from a more holistic approach.

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In episode 61, Kestrel welcomes Dechel McKillian, founder of Galerie.LA and former stylist for the Black Eyed Peas and Lil Wayne to the show. They talk all things personal style and curation, and explore how sustainability fits into these approaches.

With a background in psychobiology, Dechel shares her thoughts on how technology and fast fashion are influencing a general loss of personal style, and that the homogenization of culture is potentially influencing us to lose our own identities to only become "what is popular".

Kestrel and Dechel also explore the importance of curation when it comes to the future of fashion. From Dechel's perspective, quality over quantity wins; she reminds us that owning your own aesthetic could potentially help you buy less and love your clothes more.

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In this week's episode, Kestrel welcomes two guests to the show: Jason Kibbey, the CEO of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition and Alden Wicker, writer and founder of EcoCult. The idea for this show exploded for Kestrel after she read an article Alden wrote for Racked: “We Have No Idea How Bad Fashion Actually Is For The Environment”. It struck a chord with her -- and many other people who have been using the same unverified fact over and over again in our conversations: the global fashion industry is the 2nd most polluting industry in the world.

In this chat, Jason shares his thoughts on where we are currently when it comes to determining the "impact" of the fashion industry. He highlights the reality that creating standards can be especially difficult in the fashion industry because value judgements will inevitably come into play. He also shares what The Sustainable Apparel Coalition is working on with the Higg Index.

Kestrel, Jason and Alden also dive deep into the question of whether conscious consumerism can make an impact, and if so - how much. The search for analytics in the fashion industry is a constant thread throughout this conversation.

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In episode 59, Kestrel had the opportunity to visit the Patagonia Headquarters in Ventura, CA to record an in-person interview with 2 key players in the Patagonia game. Helena Barbour is the Senior Director of Global Sportswear at Patagonia, and Thuy Nguyen is the Manager of Social Responsibility and Special Programs. The two have played a large role in building out Patagonia's Fair Trade initiative - in conjunction with Fair Trade USA - in recent years.

In light of Fashion Revolution Day this year, and a continued hope to instigate more respect for the people who make our clothes, this chat is focused heavily on the concept and implementation of Fair Trade initiatives in the garment supply chain. Kestrel asks Thuy and Helena to share more about the evolution of the program at Patagonia, including their thoughts on where they started and where they have come. In addition, they discuss the logistics of how the Fair Trade program works, and how it has the potential to help support local communities around the world.

Kestrel brings "scalability" to the table again, and Thuy and Helena provide their insight on the scalability of fair trade manufacturing, and how collaboration is key to the future success of this program. When it comes to storytelling, the three discuss how complicated it still is to bring up the sustainable fashion conversation with an inclusive, nonjudgemental approach. To close, Thuy and Helena each share their ideas on how we can continue to work on small ways of bringing a more conscious approach to what we wear.

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In episode 58, Kestrel welcomes on Cynthia Powers, the Facilitating Manager of Eileen Fisher’s clothing take back program, Fisher Found, as well as Teslin Doud, who was part of Eileen Fisher’s Social Innovators Project, helping develop some of the company’s circular design components.

Kestrel asks Cynthia and Teslin about Fisher Found’s origins, intention and goals. In addition, Cynthia and Teslin share more insight on the meaning behind the program’s three Rs: Reworn, Renewed, and Remade.

The three also discuss the future of take back programs and what we might expect down the line.

This week’s episode was sponsored by The Fourth Gentlemen, who make accessories from bamboo and cork. Why are their bamboo sunnies so amazing?

1. Bamboo is a renewable resource and apparently one of the fastest growing plants on the planet.
2. It’s super flexible and lightweight - often I’ve forgotten I have these shares on because they’re like a feather.
3. They float! If you like sailing or being on the water like me, these are a great option - I’ve lost many a pair of sunglasses to the depths below over the years.

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In episode 57, Kestrel welcomes Liza Moiseeva to the show. Liza is the co-founder of GlobeIn, a social business dedicated to supporting remote artisans from around the world. Their primary product is a monthly Artisan Box subscription, where every product fights poverty through job creation and fair wages.

Kestrel and Liza discuss the importance of storytelling when it comes to artisan and fair trade products, and Liza shares her insight on how she thinks the "subscription box" could be changing the future of online retail. For Liza, the concept of discovery is really intriguing to her and how it can influence shoppers down the line. Kestrel addresses the question of whether subscription models are inspiring a constant flow of "more stuff" and Liza shares her thoughts on how there may be ways to find a conscious balance within the box model.

People + Brands Liza Addressed During The Show:
+ Muhammad Yunus
+ Matr Boomie
+ Kiva
+ Amour Vert

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In episode 56, Kestrel welcomes on Lona Alia, founder and CEO of Style Lend, an online marketplace that hosts hundreds of designer styles that users can rent for a fraction of the cost and return after a week's time. Called the "AirBnB for clothes" by TechCrunch, Style Lend is working on shaking up the online rental fashion scene by giving women access to other women's impressive closets.

In this chat, Kestrel asks Lona how she addresses the difficulties of having enough inventory for renters, given that peer-to-peer models often pose a struggle in creating enough supply for the demand. In addition, she questions whether rental sites will embrace more sustainable brands down the line, being that the majority of them are built on offering "luxury, name brands" at a reduced rate for renters. Kestrel and Lona discuss the concept of buying clothing for longevity, not only for its quality, but also for its resell value.

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In episode 55, Kestrel welcomes Summer Rayne Oakes to the show. Known as “the first eco model”, Summer's experiences and knowledge go far beyond her notable look. With an education focused on ecology and entomology (the study of insects), she has worked in 2 distinct realms of the sustainability conversation: food and fashion.

Kestrel asks Summer for insight on what the fashion world could potentially learn from the food world, and vice versa. They discuss regenerative agriculture, the politics of slow food and fashion, and how technology may help and/or hinder the future of fashion.

Another theme that resonates throughout this chat is the idea of scaling, how it's been ingrained into our culture, and why scalability has become synonymous with success.

For more on Summer's current projects, you can check out her book SUGARDETOX.ME, and her website Homestead Brooklyn, which helps us become more connected to nature while living in a city.

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In episode 54, Kestrel connects with Sandra Capponi, the Co-Founder & Head of Development for Good On You, an app that helps you find fashion that has a positive impact on people, the planet and animals.

Nowadays, there’s literally an app for everything. In this chat, Sandra shares insight on how she believes that apps can make an impact, and how giving people access to information can empower them to make better decisions.

Kestrel asks Sandra about the sharing of information and how apps can potentially work together to aggregate their information, and collaborate on pushing for change. Also, they explore further the idea of "inconvenience" that arose in episode 52 with Whitney Bauck of Fashionista, and how it affects our purchasing habits.

Click here to check out more on the Good On You app, and what they're up to!

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In episode 53, our first episode of Season 2, Kestrel connect with natural dye guru Kathy Hattori. As the founder of Botanical Colors, Kathy works to bring natural dyeing processes to larger scale production facilities, and also collaborates with designers on small batch dye projects.

In this chat, Kathy breaks down the big differences between conventional and natural dyes, and the scaleability of the latter. Also, Kestrel and Kathy talk about "brilliance of dyes," and how this can be interpreted differently, depending on your relationship with color and its meaning.

Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs) are the chemicals that Kathy mentioned have extremely harmful effects. Research has shown that - when washed - NPEs are released from clothing and in turn, discharged into our waterways, where they turn into the even more toxic and hormone-disrupting chemical nonylphenol (NP).

More on Greenpeace's Detox program here >

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In this week's episode, Kestrel has the chance to welcome on one of her notable "Instagram-turned-real-life" connections: Whitney Bauck, an assistant editor at Fashionista. On her personal blog, Unwrinkling, Whitney explores the intersection of fashion, faith and ethics.

In this chat, Whitney shares insight on what led her into the ethical fashion conversation. It's interesting to hear how she has embraced her role at Fashionista not only to write about style, but also to bring ethics, supply chains and transparency into the conversation, when relevant. Kestrel & Whitney discuss the idea of digital whistleblowers and whether digital activism can actually make an impact.

Below, are some of the super cool brands Whitney mentioned she's currently loving:
+ Uniform
+ Tara
+ Vaquera

This week's episode was sponsored by Pathways For Promise, a new recruitment initiative at AUW (Asian University for Women) which identifies talented women among current garment factory workers and provides them with the academic, financial, and professional support to earn their Bachelor's degrees and become leaders in their chosen fields. You can learn more about the Asian University for Women here >

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Episode 51 | YOUTH FASHION SUMMIT + THE NEXT GENERATION

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Episode 50 | THINK DIRTY + THE SEARCH FOR CLEAN BEAUTY

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Episode 49 | FABSCRAP + REUSING TEXTILE WASTE

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Episode 48 | PANAH + MADE IN AFRICA

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Episode 47 | TIMO RISSANEN + ZERO WASTE DESIGN

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Episode 46 | THREAD CARAVAN + ARTISAN ADVENTURES

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Episode 45 | JASMIN MALIK CHUA, ECOUTERRE + AN INSIDER'S PERSPECTIVE

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Episode 44 | ANDREW MORGAN + THE TRUE COST

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Episode 43 | SOKO, VIRTUAL SUPPLY CHAINS + CONNECTIVE TECHNOLOGY

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Episode 42 | SUSTAINABILITY IN THE FASHION CURRICULUM

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Episode 41 | HODA KATEBI + FASHION ACTIVISM

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Episode 40 | MARCI ZAROFF + FARM TO CLOSET

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Episode 39 | YOUTUBE, COMPASSION FASHION + INFLUENCE

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Episode 38 | EXPEDITION 196, PEACE + SUSTAINABILITY VIA TRAVEL

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Episode 37 | PUSHING THE SUSTAINABLE FASHION CONVERSATION

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Episode 36 | SPIRIT OF 608, TECH + THE FUTURE OF FASHION

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Episode 35 | FASHIONKIND, LUXURY + SUSTAINABILITY

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Episode 34 | STELA 9 + CULTURAL PRESERVATION

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Episode 33 | REDRESS + WASTE LESS

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Episode 32 | CHRISTY DAWN + MAKING DEADSTOCK LOVELY

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Epsiode 31 | OLDERBROTHER, UNIVERSAL GARMENTS + THE PROCESS

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Episode 30 | SAMATA + RED CARPET GREEN DRESS

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Episode 29 | TRADLANDS + QUALITY OVER QUANTITY

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Episode 28 | PIÑATEX + PINEAPPLES AS A LEATHER ALTERNATIVE

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Episode 27 | STORIES, CRAFT + VALUES

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Episode 26 | KNITTING IS COOL AGAIN

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Episode 25 | MINDFULNESS FOR ENTREPRENEURS

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Episode 24 | CELEBRATE LOCAL

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Episode 23 | DIVERSITY IN FASHION

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Episode 22 | RECYCLING + ECOALF

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Episode 21 | CONSCIOUS BLOGGING

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Episode 20 | BY HAND + THIEF & BANDIT

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Episode 19 | CRADLE TO CRADLE + FASHION POSITIVE

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Episode 18 | MARA HOFFMAN + MINDFULNESS

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Episode 17 | TRANSPARENCY

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Episode 16 | FIBER FARMING

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Episode 15 | RENEWAL

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Episode 14 | GIVING

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Episode 13 | TINY WARDROBE

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Episode 12 | NEW BUSINESS MODEL

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Episode 11 | SUPPLY CHAINS

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Episode 10 | COTTON

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Episode 09 | HEMP

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Episode 08 | FAIR TRADE

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Episode 07 | FASHION REVOLUTION

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Episode 06 | DESIGNER DILEMMA

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Episode 05 | WASTE

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Episode 04 | MADE IN USA

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Episode 03 | WATER

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Episode 02 | STORYTELLING

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Episode 01 | INTRODUCTION