Trail and Errors: Recent Episodes
Ethan Wrigglesworth
Along the west coast of America lies a 2,650 mile continuous path connecting the states of California, Oregon and Washington - the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). Every year thousands of thru-hikers from across the world pack their bags and set off, hoping to complete the daunting Mexico to Canada hike. This year, 2019, Ethan Wrigglesworth and Molly Meadows are among that crowd, and invite you to join them in experiencing the trail and many errors along the way. Welcome to the Trail and Errors Podcast.
One day from Snoqualmie, so you not what to expect - lots of talk about food. It is however, an unusual pre town day as Snoqualmie is set to be the last town stop before the end of the trail. Naturally there are mixed feelings about this. The journey is coming to a close and with it are the excitements of home and rest, but this has been their lives for the last 6 months, a unique and extraordinary life, one not so easily put to one side. These emotions are heard throughout the episode as Ethan, Molly and the gang face this reality for the first time, being now 2 weeks from Canada.
Leaving Mt Rainier behind, Molly and Ethan plod their way through yet another burnt woodland but this time, from the fertile soils sprout small clusters of strawberries - not quite the selection at Sainsbury's but a delightful treat for the eyes if anything. This landscape of recovering shrub dominates the day which remains hot despite the grey cloud cover looming overhead. There is a random encounter involving a minor "PCT celebrity" - OTC - and a gamble between a spring water supply and rumoured trail magic.
The team pass through a tourist hotspot as it draws close to the Labor Day national holiday. The usually quiet and thru-hiker occupied territory of the PCT is shared with countless national and international day hikers enjoying the trails around Mt Rainier. That said, much of the day is spent in mists, including yet another delightful pause for trail magic but, shortly after, the sun breaks through with a vengeance turning the previously damp day into a scorcher. The group swim in lakes, converse with passers by and share PCT anthems, written along the journey.
One of those days; not a bad day but, just one of those ya know?
Following the explosion of beauty the day before at Knifes Edge, we dive into forests on a day of drizzle. It is beautiful and wild, but quiet. Lethargy sinks it's claws in. The day was taken easy, with lunch beside alpine lakes, talks of possible wolf sightings, crashing at the end with a very exciting food review.
In the Goat Rocks Wilderness, the PCT splits. You can take the original route or an alternative. Frankly, you'd be a fool not to take the alternative. Knife's Edge remains the most beautiful section of all 2,650 miles of the trail for us. This episode hopefully showcases that with a lot of ambient audio, "Wow"s and the occasional f-bomb of delight. There isn't much else to say really. Listen and enjoy.
Having skirted around Mt Adams, the dynamic duo press on with their eyes set firmly on the Goat Rocks Wilderness - said to be one of the most beautiful stretches of the entire trail. The team discuss their favourite town stops so far, find themselves in awe by the beauty of Cispus pass, attempt once again to communicate with Pikas and generally enjoys the days hike in gorgeous weather and surroundings. They finish the day camping in what is possibly the most amazing camp spot thus far with near 360 views of Washingtons most iconic mountains on a clear evening. They are a stones through from Knives Edge - the main piece for the day to come.
As they leave the area of Trout Lake, saying goodbye once more to old friends, Molly and Ethan begin to skirt the more recognisable mountains of the Washington Cascades. Mt Adams and the rest lie in wait.
A promise of a little trail magic turns into an overdose. On a day already fitted with a scheduled town stop, the team are spoilt as they come across 3 stations of trail magic along the way. French toast, pork chops, chocolates and mimosas fuel the march to Trout Lake which itself delivers blueberry pies, burgers and long lost trail families. A long conversation is shared with Prometheus and Not A Minor by campfire outside of town, featuring discussions about managing a relationship on trail, bear encounters, devil deer and more.
A disjointed sound fest of us eating, mumbling and summarising. We hope you still enjoy.
The gang continue their walk up the multi mile slope upon which they camped. Its a morning slog, but whilst resting on its peak a SOBO hiker delivers news of magic on the trail. This is where lunch and much of this episode is spent. Amongst casual conversation excitement and anticipation of Trout Lake, due the following day, continues to build but more news from SOBO hikers of even more magic makes the next day as exciting as Christmas.
Ah, Washington; the forests, the ferns and of course the non-stop up hill struggle.
It's a sweaty welcome to the new state but the milestone of yesterday pushes Molly and Ethan up the hills and rolls them down the other side. Ethan is attacked by a wasp, the team reflect on hitch hikes of the past and the prospect of restaurant food at Trout lake lingers on the tip of our tongues.
Another milestone crossed in this episode as Molly and Ethan cross the final US state border into Washington via the Bridge of the Gods, but first they must tick off the last few miles of Oregon in variable weather, and complete the U of the Columbia River valley. Oregon sends them packing with one last night of rain, but the promise of town and food in the form of Cascade Locks keeps their spirits from being dampened and spurs them on across the famed bridge into the state that marks the beginning of the end.
A long and emotional episode.
Molly and Ethan, eager to meet his parents at Timberline lodge, press on through the humid forests of north Oregon, along the edges of Timothy Lake, to the slopes of Mt Hood. Along the way, Ethan goes through waves of anticipation as the day he's been longing for comes to reality but, when it finally arrives, nothing could be sweeter.
The end is near, but a taste of home is needed to push them through.
Spanning days 141 and 142, this episode sees Molly and Ethan hike from Big Lake Youth Camp to beyond Ollalie Lake. Along the way, they surpass the 2000 mile mark and reflect on the miles as well as the pride they feel for having come so far. Having skirted around Mt Jefferson, they finally get views of Mt Hood in the distance; their future destination and the spot of a well needed two days zero. Along the lakeside of Ollalie they are treated to magic in the form of homemade Mexican food delivered by some of the most kind and generous trail angels yet but have to peel themselves away from the treat to find a little spot for camp to one side of the trail. Only one more whole day of hiking before Ethan's parents meet them at Timberline Lodge. Excitement is in the air.
A day of obsidian, waterfalls, lava fields and mountains awaits your ears in this episode. The team leave behind the Three Sisters and their volcanic wake on their way to Big Lake Youth Camp where a thrifty resupply proves useful for the coming days ahead.
An early and cold morning kept the mosquitoes at bay as our duo left the shores of Stormy Lake. After a day of monotonous woodland, Ethan was hoping for open views and possibly glimpses of the Three Sisters as they etched their way through the wilderness dedicated to those volcanic mountains. Great progress was made by lunch and, come evening, Molly and Ethan found themselves staring up at the red volcanic slopes of what was surely one of the great Sisters. As the evening light cast itself upon the meadows and forest around them, they settled for camp at the base of the Sister (possibly Middle, though equally possibly Southern) surrounded by south-bound and day hikers attracted to the spot for the exact same reasons.
Ethan and Molly wake up to the tail end of the storm that thundered down on them the previous evening. Trudging through the mud and wet bush, they head towards Shelter Cove - a small lakeside campsite with a shop, restaurant and possible accommodation in the face of worsening conditions. Indeed the weather did not let up and Shelter Cove proved to be an ideal stop. The next morning brought clearer skies and dried kit. Our dynamic duo monopolised on these favourable conditions achieving a 29-mile day through the relatively flat green tunnel to yet another lake called Stormy. Though both days didn't bring much in the way of wild beauty, having entered the Three Sisters Wilderness the days to come were aligned to make up for it.
The day before wasn't the most entertaining day for the guys. To entertain themselves they played a little game known as "Snog, Marry or Kill". The subject of said game? Just three of histories well-known Gods. Well, they learnt their lesson on route towards Shelter Cove when the God left for dead took his vengeance. Join the gang as they find themselves in the grip of a storm which culminates in thunderous claps of lightning and "hailstones the size of walnuts" as they traverse a high ridgeline.
Despite warning signs, Molly and Ethan survive a night without disturbance from Mountain Lions. Legs and limbs still intact, they start the days hike around the rim of Crater Lake, admiring its beauty in the morning light. The day ahead is full of long dry stretches so the dynamic duo make the most of water caches left by trail angels along the way. The trail meanders back to the green tunnel, though large stretches pass through diseased and dying woodlands, providing little distraction from the stifling heat. Eventually, they reach the base of Mt Theilsen - a jagged peak of red and yellow banned rock - where they come across their friend Cheese Grater whose suffering from multiple stress fractures, and may need to come off-trail as a consequence. After a brief stop at a river passing down from the mountain, Molly and Ethan find a good camping spot among the forest just a few miles from Oregons highest point on the PCT.
Molly and Ethan wake to a mosquito soup in the air and, as a consequence, charge through the morning miles on their way to Crater Lake. Crater Lake has been high on their "sights to see" list and they are buzzing to have finally reached it. The trail cuts through burn areas whose skeletal trees are populated by woodpeckers and the air is alive with the hum of crickets. They reconvene with several friends at Mazama Village; Will, Audrey, Mike, Miles, Matt, Trouble and Cheeks, and enjoy a well-deserved lunch/dinner at a campsite resturant after achieving 20+ miles by early afternoon. Following a side trail, they proceed up to the Crater Lake Rim Walk through more clouds of mosquitos and are absolutely dazzled by the beauty of the lake. After a good rest admiring the view, our duo finds camp off-trail along the rim. Before heading to sleep they discuss recent warnings of Mountain Lion activity around their campsite.
A cheerful Ethan greets us this morning, but Molly is struggling with a blister on her foot that has required some intervention. Feeling better after 'leeching' it they head out into the green tunnel of the forest, plagued by swarms of mosquitos in the still, humid air. Water is a bit of an issue today, with 11 miles between each of the sources they plan to stop at. The day is overcast, so heat is less of a problem but the air is heavy. Eventually they emerge from the tunnel out onto a ridge where they have views across the wooded valleys and the breeze keeps the mozzies at bay. A final push up and over a hill gets them thinking about reaching the famous Crater Lake tomorrow with the opportunity of a restaurant stop in Mazama Village. Episode 115 of Trail & Errors :)
Although there was thunder rolling around overnight there wasn't much rain to disturb their sleep, instead it was animal noises that spooked 'Spook' during the night. The morning sees them keen to get back to a normal on-trail routine away from the distractions of town. Deers greet them on the path, and it is cool and quiet in the forest as they approach Plumb Landing Camp where there is a tap and a flushing loo! It is a lovely setting with Hyatt Lake glinting through the trees. Moving on to South Brown Mountain Shelter, one of only 3 huts on the entire trail, they link up with some fellow Brits collecting water from the pump there. It is hot and dry, and the water sources are surprisingly sparse, so they collectively decide to push another 10 miles to the next one so that they can camp near water for cooking and the next morning's routine. It's a volcanic landscape they are in, with old lava flows spreading across the trail and down into the forests below. A graded red-rocked trail cuts across these boulder filled sections. Berries are beginning to bud, and Ethan is looking forward to the trail treats that they will eventually provide. Their feet hurt after this 29 mile day, but they bed down in good spirits after a full day on the PCT. Episode 114 of Trail & Errors... :)
A more regular start to the trail after their stressful departure from Ashland yesterday, they head out under a hot sky towards Pilot Rock. Molly soon discovers that you can't breathe, eat, and walk simultaneously. Their calculations indicate that their current 25 mpd pace is sufficient as they head through Oregon proper, but having had the state line as a target for so long they need to re-establish their motivational goals for the next section. Oregon has a few ranches and tourist spots near the trail, but no big hiker-orientated supply points, so they have packed out 10 days worth of food and they feel the extra weight in their packs. Nearing the dramatic outline of Pilot Rock standing clear on a ridgeline Ethan is hopeful of spotting Peregrine Falcons, known to favour the high aspect of the rock overlooking the forested valleys below, and indeed when they get there they can see all the way back to Mt Shasta in the distance. Dragonflies abound during lunch, and after a break in a quiet meadow it is hot and dry on the trail and feels thunderous. Soon enough the clouds build and the storms threaten, but nothing dramatic results. They camp near the pretty Hyatt Lake, and think ahead to the dramatic Crater Lake that they will reach in a few days. A good day in trail in Episode 113 of Trail & Errors... :)
It's Day 130, and after a well earned Zero in the super nice town of Ashland the guys are keen to get back on the trail. Beers at the Standing Stone Brewery, Thai food, socks, shorts, resupply logistics, shopping; it all takes ages, especially when the Wi-Fi in America is generally so rubbish everywhere, why is that??? Frustrating for Molly particularly, who gets easily frazzled and overwhelmed with the busy environment of the city. Luckily they have a local trail angel, Mike, who is at the ready to shuttle them around town as they undertake their various chores. Eventually they are ready to get to trail, and they give Mike as shout, however a slight miscalculation results in them being dropped 17 miles away from where they need to be, after driving an hour down a small forest road! Luckily, by our coincidence, they are rescued by Nellie's parents who just happen to be collecting her there from the trail, and they get a lift an hour back where they came from and eventually rejoin the PCT near Callahan's Lodge. However it is now 7.30pm, Molly has lost a sock, and Ashland will always be remembered for having the most stressful departing experience rather than for the excellent Zero day that they spent there. Tomorrow can only be better... Episode 112 of Trail & Errors.
It's a town day, and after a month without a break the guys are looking forward to taking a couple of nights in a motel and having a Zero day tomorrow. There's still 19 miles to go to get to Ashland, and it's another hot one. Realising they've not washed their clothes for 400 miles they are keen to find a laundromat when they get there! They calculate that they have about 48-49 days left to complete the next two states, which is mad when it has taken them 127 days to get through California. They head up a steep climb before a long descent to Callahan's Lodge at the I-5, from where they can hitch to Ashland. Halfway up the hill they get news of a waiting cooler full of sodas at the top; this news helps them finish the climb and they relax in the shade with a cool drink. Hearing the cars on the interstate as they near the road, they decide to have lunch at Callahan's Lodge, and afterwards make contact with Eddie, a Trail Angel from Ashland, who comes and takes them into town. Checking in at the Ashland Motel they dump their bags, plan on a shower, a visit to Safeway, and a curry for dinner. Day 128 ends well, and Oregon so far is a pleasant experience. Episode 111 of Trail & Errors :)
It's a slightly disorganised morning as they pack up camp; the realisation that they are about to enter a new state makes Ethan rush to get on the trail and his de-camping routine suffers. Their spirits aren't dampened though, and they make good miles on a swift trail along ridgelines and through flowered meadows to the border. Stopping for water, they link up with other hikers making the crossing today, and they are all keen to be finished with California. They've been in the same state now for 4 months, and the thought of something new and the rumours of a flatter easier trail through Oregon is an incentive for them to push for their first 30+ mile day, though their first steps over the state line are up a steep climb! Ashland will be their first town stop tomorrow, 20 miles away, but they hear that accommodation is tough to find as the famous Shakespeare festival has all the hotels booked this weekend, but with some internet searching by family back home they manage to secure a booking. Pushing on past 30 miles they set up camp dreaming of reaching Ashland for a 2 night stop and their first full Zero day in over a month... Episode 110 of Trail & Errors.
After the many ups and downs of yesterday, the focus of today is one big down followed by a massive up; the Devil's Climb... It's a hot day as they start the 14 miles downhill to Seaid Valley, but the thought of milkshakes at the cafe there and the proximity of Oregon tomorrow keeps the guys moving. Bushwacking past Grider Creek they reach the valley floor and the PCT joins a dirt road to town. They are rewarded this morning with copious blackberries growing alongside the trail, which has them dreaming of Tiffy's (Molly's grandmother) apple & blackberry crumble...mmmm. Hot and sunny as they hit the road out of town and begin the 8 mile, 5,000ft ascent out of the valley; more than comparable to some of the passes in the Sierra. Ethan reaches the top complaining that it is the 'most uncomfortable he has ever been', thanks to the sweat which is overwhelming. As other hikers gather to rest at the top they take a break and discuss many aspects of life in America, before walking into the evening with lovely views of a pale purple sky as the sun sets on a successfully completed 24 mile challenging day. Oregon beckons; Episode 109 of Trail & Errors.
A beautiful sunrise to start the day, and the path is tougher than expected as they move towards Seaid Valley. The first hill of the day is steep, and they will be going up and down along ridgelines all day, eventually beginning the 21 miles of trail that winds down to the valley floor. Passing through a gap between two mountain shoulders Ethan is plagued by bees and wasps and other buzzing annoyances as he collects water in the shade, but there are plenty of beautiful flowered meadows and long distant views to keep the eyes interested. Molly's feet are hurting, and showing significant signs of wear and tear, though nothing that can't be overcome. They both smell awful, and trying to keep their socks in any kind of reasonable shape is a topic for discussion. Up and down again all afternoon, and as they start the long route down to Seaid Valley there are limited camping spots on the steep terrain and everyone is aiming for the same site halfway down the descent. Ethan takes a tumble as they near the campsite, where they are able to soak their aching feet in an icy stream whilst trying to stop the deer from stealing their hiking poles. They are glad to finish what has been a hard days hiking on the PCT. 14.3 miles to go until a milkshake! Episode 108 of Trail & Errors :)
Waking to birdsong in the town park at Etna, the guys are pleased to have stopped in such a nice town. Breakfast at Bob's Ranch House, a few more supplies bought, and then an excellent lunch at Denny Bar Company has them feeling full and happy as they walk through Etna to the road out of town. The fires that have been noticeable in the air are far to the north and not affecting the trail as yet. They get distracted by a whistle as they make their to the hitching point; Tom & Crane beckon them over and they waste a pleasant hour catching up on trail news with their old friends at their B&B. A nice hitch follows, again in a pickup but this time a more sedate journey with a dog named Pretzel. Planning ahead to reach Oregon by the end of July, they're aware of the 'Devil's Climb' that they will have to tackle coming out of Seiad Valley in two days time. The trail is very scenic, and is supposed to be very pretty from here to the border. A breeze dissipates the smoke and they can see glimpses of Mt Shasta. A productive day on the trail in Episode 107 of Trail & Errors :)
Another bright morning on the trail, although the battle with mosquitos is one they're destined to lose. As they climb the first of the days hills there is a haze on the horizon and an acrid smell that can mean only one thing - forest fires. Each year the western states of the USA suffer from sometimes catastrophic fires, and most years at least part of the PCT is closed, forcing detours and long road walks to avoid affected sections of the trail; will this year be any different? They plan to hike almost 28 miles to Etna today, their last opportunity for a resupply before Oregon! Up & down all day today, and their concerns about fires are reinforced as they walk through burnt sections of woodland completely exposed to the heat of the day. Smoke lingers down in the valley and is trapped in the more distant trees, but the presence of day hikers indicates that they are nearing town. A fairly reckless ride into town, a visit to the Dollar General, and a burger at Dottie's later they are camped in the town park at Etna thinking about finally getting to Oregon. Episode 106 of Trail & Errors :)
Another good nights sleep on the trail, though the morning is plagued with mosquitos. Somewhat overcast, Ethan is hoping that the cloud cover will keep the temperature down, but it soon burns off and it is another hot day in Northern California. Setting out along the rolling ridge lines they are pleased that the views today are better, with some dramatic vistas out to the horizon and sightings of Mt Shasta from time to time. Molly is particularly taken by the vibrancy of the flowers they are now seeing in the meadows, rather than the scrubby bushes of previous open areas. Entering Klamath National Forest with the PCT sign peppered with bullet holes as normal (they do enjoy shooting things here!) they make a 1/4 mile detour from the trail to a campsite with picnic tables for lunch; not having to eat on the ground is a worthwhile deviation. The disappointment of another campsite with no Trail Magic is soon forgotten when they bump into their old friend Nellie! She's on a mission to get to Ashland where she has to leave the trail to attend Med school, but they have time to catch up before she speeds off on her 40-mile hike for the day. The day ends along a beautiful red-rock trail with great views and even a patch of snow. A brilliant day of steady walking at a relaxed pace. The town of Etna beckons tomorrow perhaps, where there are a couple of famous places to get a burger... Episode 105 of Trail & Errors :)
The views this morning are no less beautiful, with the sunlight bathing Mt Shasta and Castle Crags in its soft light as the guys pack up for the day ahead. Was that the best campsite thus far? Hopeful to be blessed with continued good views from the trail, they move on through flowery meadows towards Toad Lake. The trail takes a big arc southwards (!) then west, north, and finally east around Mt Shasta for the next couple of hundred miles until Ashland in Oregon. Walking along ridgelines the views are great and the gradient is kind, but motivation is tough and they really want to stop and nap. Every time they pause bees gather on their legs, presumably enjoying the sweat, although today is a much better temperature. The trail is popular with day hikers and campers enjoying the nearby lakes and fishing spots. Ethan realises his parents will have arrived in Seattle, though it will be another month before they meet up on the trail. A leisurely stroll through the Trinity Alps in Episode 104 of Trail & Errors.
Taking in the two days in and out of Dunsmuir, episode 103 begins with the team heading towards Interstate 5 to hitch into town. Ethan is excited as he's due to pick up some new shoes from the post office, he needs them after 800 miles on his current pair through the Sierra! They calculate that they can make it to Canada before their visas expire with a solid 20+ mile a day average, especially as Oregon is looming and is renown for being an easier trail. Past the 1500 mile marker, they remark on how much easier it is to do big days now; 25 miles is straightforward, at the beginning of the PCT 20 miles was a stretch! They can hear I5 in the distance, but as they approach it is unclear where to hitch from as it is very quiet and they can't hitchhike on the interstate itself. They do get a ride, and immediately head to the famous Yaks for some super burgers. Of course they end up staying all day, and get a cute cabin at Cave Springs Motel. The following day after breakfast at the excellent Wheelhouse the hotel owner kindly gives them a ride back to trail, thanks Louie! They want to do as many miles as possible, but they have a 5,000ft climb to tend with. Moving out of the woods they have stunning views of Castle Crags when they take a break at Disappearing Creek and enjoy the mango they've packed out from town. Heading towards what is rumoured to be the most beautiful campsite on trail they are rewarded with a prime spot facing Mt Shasta and Castle Crags as the sun sheds its fading pink light on the scenery. Check out the pictures at trailanderrors.com, & enjoy hearing about it all in Episode 103 of the Trail & Errors podcast :)
Waking up next to Butcher Knife Creek with their own private beach after a good nights sleep sees the guys in high spirits as they head out through dense woodland. They've recovered well overnight, except for Molly's bee sting from yesterday which is swollen and annoying. They move down the trail towards McCloud River, and have wonderful bear encounter with a beautiful cinnamon coloured female. The trail is hard and dusty, and overgrown with poison oak, which they do their best to avoid. They bump into old friends at lunch, and catch up on gossip from elsewhere on the trail. Squaw Valley Creek offers respite from the heat of the day, and they stop for a lovely swim. Early evening sees them leave the 'green tunnel' of trees and emerge with views of Mt Shasta and Castle Crags. Thinking about their town visit tomorrow to Dunsmuir, they are hoping for the opportunity for a wash and a rest, and of course a load of food! Hiding in their tent from the mosquitos, day 118 ends in episode 102 of Trail & Errors.
Day 117 and the team wake beneath another cloudless sky after a really good nights sleep. Well rested and feeling energised they head out through the woods with occasional glimpses of Mt Shasta looming overhead. The views intensify as they move out of the trees onto exposed ridge lines, where the landscape is laid out beneath them like a map, with views out to the horizon where they can see all the way back to Mt Lassen and marvel at how far they've walked. Bees are buzzing aplenty amongst the flowering shrubs, and after lunch and a nap the miles come easy despite the heat. After a solid 24 miles hiked they stop early and camp in a bucolic setting next a stream, where they wash their tired feet and are astounded at how dirty they've become. A satisfying day on trail, they're in bed at 7.45pm thinking of their next town stop in Dunsmuir the day after tomorrow. Episode 101 of Trail & Errors :)
An exciting day on the trail; first up is Burney Falls, which is magnificent to view up close and tempts them with the opportunity for a swim, but it is a bit too cold this early in the morning. A big climb follows, taking them back up to 6,000ft elevation through woodland and the occasional flowered meadow. Ethan sees a bear! This is the cause of much excitement as it's their first encounter, although unfortunately Molly doesn't get to see it herself. Shortly afterwards they meet a rattlesnake which is reminiscent of the time in Southern California that Ethan got stuck on the path with a stubborn reptile that wouldn't move. They take a nap beneath some trees before carrying on along a nicely graded trail with easy walking; it's nice when you don't need to concentrate on navigation or footing and can relax and take in the surroundings. They come across some PCTA volunteers working hard to keep the trail clear as it is very overgrown in places and requires some head-down bushwhacking. They emerge from this overgrown section with stunning views of Mt Shasta sitting proud in the distance, now much closer and still a target to be aimed for. After Dunsmuir in a couple of days they'll actually head southwards to skirt around its western flank. Another bear for Ethan, this time a big one with 4 little cubs; a slightly more nerve-wracking experience but nothing too dramatic. A beautiful evening with the sun setting beyond Mt Shasta sees them bed down with some other hikers after a long satisfying day on the trail. Episode 100 of Trail & Errors :)
Starting high on the Hat Creek Rim escarpment at Cache 22, today Molly & Ethan drop down to the heat of the valley floor where they have a 13 mile dry stretch along a hard but flat trail. The broken lava they're walking on is tough on Ethan's feet, and he is keen for his new shoes in 100 miles or so. The heat is extreme, but they have a treat today as they stop at Burney Mountain Guest Ranch just after lunch, which is only just off the trail, for water, shade, rest, and supplies at their well-stocked little hiker store. Water is still a problem in the afternoon as they move on towards the famous Burney Falls, which they plan to visit tomorrow. A longer day than planned sees them bed down in a well-populated campground with weekend visitors also planning to see the cascade in the morning; Episode 99 of Trail & Errors.
Despite their noisy neighbours this morning, Molly & Ethan hit the trail in good humour, preparing themselves for the dry stretches of trail over the next few days. They moves through the remnants of the 'Redding' fire, now a few years old but its devastation is evident. Hat Creek Rim is ahead, but before they climb the escarpment they stop in at JJ's Cafe just off the trail at Old Station; they highly recommend a visit! Once up on the rim the geology is unique; flat out to their east as far as they can see, Mount Lassen behind them rising in the sky, a drop of several hundred feet to their left down to another flat plain stretching away to the horizon, where they now see Mt Shasta rising prominently in the distance. They will walk within its presence for the next few weeks all the way into Oregon. They like having a marker behind them (Mt Lassen) so they can see how far they've come, and a target in front of them (Mt Shasta) that they can aim for. The views off of Hat Creek Rim are amazing. Past seemingly extra large cows that are a bit intimidating they head towards a reliable water cache at Road 22, where they camp with the trail family they met at Draksbad yesterday. An awesome day, 28 miles along a good trail with great scenery, enjoy Episode 98 of Trail & Errors :)
Another good night's sleep, and team EthaMol are ready for the day. With Lassen National Park ahead, they will be forced to hike all the way through the park as they no longer have their bear canisters, so it will be 25 miles to their next campsite. An added distraction is the $15 all you can eat buffet mid-way through the park at the Draksbad Guest Ranch which they plan to indulge in. As they are running early there is a quick side trip to Terminal Geyser, and then Boiling Lake; both of which attest to the volcanic nature of this part of California. Reaching the guest ranch they are able to use the pool before lunch, where they join the other hikers escaping the sun. An awesome lunch follows, before they head uphill in the building heat through stifling forests. The stillness makes the mosquitos bold, and they are ever-present. At the beautiful Upper Twin Lake they stop for a paddle, before walking through a fire-ravaged section of woodland. Water is somewhat scarce, so in anticipation of camping they fill up as they approach the park boundary. Bedding down just outside of Lassen NP it is another successful day on trail; Episode 97 of Trail & Errors.
Covering the 2 days either side of their overnight stop in Chester, episode 96 sees the guys wake after a good sleep under clear skies looking forward to the day ahead. They both are in need of a good wash as they are caked in dirt from the dusty trail. Mt Lassen looms ahead, it's conical shape reminding them that they are in volcanic formed territory. A huge milestone is reached as they pass they mid-way point of the PCT! Only 1325 miles to go... They make it to the highway and hitch into Chester with their first stop at The Burger Depot. The next morning sees them check out of the Antler Motel, before having some Eggs Benedict at The Copper Kettle Cafe where they discuss their strategy for the rest of NorCal. New shoes collected for Molly from the post office, and new shoes ordered for Ethan, they get a fancy ride back to trail from Mustang Mike, thanks Mike! With a 19 miles section ahead where they can't camp, they plan their distances accordingly, and hike just 10 miles towards Lassen National Park. Though the scenery is picturesque, mosquitoes are ever present, and the heat is intense. They setup camp and have a bit of a heart-to-heart about motivation and mental fragility; the NorCal blues are bighting! Finishing their discussion on a positive vibe they bed down with some new ideas for their daily routine and hopes for a buffet lunch at Draksbad Ranch in the National Park part-way through the no-camping stretch tomorrow. Enjoy the highs and lows of trail life in Episode 96 of Trail & Errors.
Carrying on with the endless climb out of Belden, Ethan & Molly are targeting a stop in the town of Chester tomorrow. A slightly problematic river crossing is first up, and it continues to be a rough morning with fallen trees making the going slow and a painful bee sting adding to Ethan's woes. However as they move out of the woods the gradient eases and they can see more; birds courting, squirrels fighting, and we get a lesson about parasitic wasps. Snow appears again; what a massive winter California and the west have had this year. A lovely lunch at Cold Spring, where they bump into Sandy and Durrell and their dog Ruby; a really lovely couple who share their watermelon with our team and take their rubbish away for them; thanks guys! Ethan clarifies the differences between the various types of trees as they move verify out on to a welcomed ridgeline with a somewhat rare view ahead for a change. Their feet hurt a lot today, possibly from the long climb out of Belden but maybe from the harder volcanic rock they are now encountering on the trail as they move toward Lassen Volcanic National Park. A tough day, but mission accomplished as they find a secluded campsite and settle down for a Mac & Cheese dinner; Episode 95 of Trail & Errors.
Waking to the sound of birdsong and the buzzing of insects, especially mosquitos, today the team are faced with an extreme descent into the town of Belden in the blistering heat, followed by an equally strenuous climb out of town up the opposite side of the valley. Ethan is worried more about the downhill; although uphill is tiring the downhill affects less-used muscles, plus your feet are smashed into your shoes with each step and your knees take a battering. The day is boiling hot, but bizarrely their old friend snow makes a few very brief appearances! Out of the woods and onto the exposed ridgeline lizards abound, and they are certainly in rattlesnake territory again. Arriving in Belden they feel the physicality of the descent, but their minds are distracted by the bizarre happenings in town..the 'Camp Fuck It Up' festival is in full swing. The insane heat only adds to the sense of dysmorphia. After a very mediocre plate of nachos they move through the 'town' and look for some shade to rest before the climb; the combination of banging vibes, drugged out semi-naked revellers, roadworks and roadworkers, makes it confusing where the trail restarts and they get a bit lost in the mayhem. They laze away most of the afternoon in the shade at the historic 'Stamp Mill', before beginning the 14 mile ascent up towards Rattlesnake Creek, from where the trail flattens out a bit towards their eventual campsite at Myrtle Flat. A weird day on the trail, but 24 miles complete, in Episode 94 of Trail & Errors.
An earlier start than normal, and with food on their minds Molly & Ethan head up a steep climb with 10 miles to go before they reach the road leading to Quincy. It's hot and humid, and Ethan feels the lack of calories from his meagre breakfast. We hear about the NorCal blues; the start of the PCT through the desert is novel and exciting, the Sierra are challenging and require fortitude and strength; here in Northern California the trail is pretty (though they've seen pretty already) and not very difficult, so the challenge is mental rather than physical. They have their second breakfast after the big climb, with tremendous views out across the dense forests. Reaching the road they get a nice ride into Quincy, where they resupply at Safeway before enjoying Nachos, Burgers, & Beer at the Pangaea Cafe. They get a ride back to trail from Mike, though unfortunately Ethan leaves their groundsheet/ride sign in Mike's car! Uh oh... Back on a nice soft trail they move on to a pretty campsite where they find a spot to themselves. Hoping not to spend too long in the next town, Belden, which is right on the PCT, they bed down dreaming of their next hotel stop in Chester, three days away. Episode 93 of Trail & Errors.
After a tough day yesterday Ethan & Molly have high hopes for a better one today. A bit concerned about the need to keep their daily mileage up, they begin in a dense forest but eventually move out onto a ridge with loads of butterflies and buzzing insects (unfortunately mosquitos too). It is ironic that as they cross a forest road a car happens by and offers them a lift into Quincy, but that isn't the plan for today, so they pass on the lift but accept some PB&J (Peanut Butter & Jelly) sandwiches from Barbara & her chihuahua. Today is much more positive, and as they descend to the Middle Fork Feather River they are feeling good and looking forward to a nice campsite and a swim. The river is majestic, with a lovely bridge spanning the rapids, but they actually decide to press on for a few more miles towards Bear Creek. An even better place to camp awaits, and they enjoy a quick dip in the cold water before bedding down for the night. 26 miles down and a much happier end to day 107; Episode 92 of Trail & Errors :)
The terrain continues to change, and the daily mileage is improving; but often other hikers seem to be moving faster. Today Ethan & Molly set out to see how far they can go, not so much to push for a big distance but to see what a full day of walking results in. Although they initially descend, the day is mainly spent on high ridgelines. Passing through a large campsite they wistfully smell the bacon cooking, but the only benefit to them is the ability to dispose of their rubbish. Despite their initial positivity, their energy is low, and Molly is in discomfort. They want to be able to do 20 miles a day as a minimum; anything over that represents 'free' miles that they can use in town or for rest days. They plan to go in and out of Quincy tomorrow, then hit Chester 3 days later. Playing cat & mouse with the trail through a snow-filled dense forest, Molly is feeling homesick. As international hikers they are a long way from home, and feel very out of touch with their friends and family. Also the trail focusses the loneliness, it is difficult to distract your mind when all you are doing is hiking alone through the wilderness, despite the remarkable beauty. After a particularly sweaty climb, Ethan realises that not only has he not washed his shirt for 2 weeks, but he won't be able to wash it for another week! With his shattered shoes he is truly embracing the hiker trash appearance. A fawn and doe appear on the trail before they make camp, but it has been 'one of those days' on the PCT. A melancholic feel to Episode 91 of Trail & Errors... :/
Numb fingers this morning as the team pack up for the walk to Sierra City and beyond. It's a lovely woodland trail, but aside from birds not much wildlife; Ethan really wants to see a bear! They can see the unique formations of Sierra Buttes ahead, but first they dive a mile off trail to Sierra City for a 'gut buster' burger, and they run into their old trail friend Chef whom they haven't seen since Kennedy Meadows over a month ago! Pleased to be back on the PCT afterwards they reflect on how overwhelming civilisation is when you spend most of your time out in the sticks, though it was useful having internet access so Ethan could order some new shoes as his current pair are 'obliterated'. They climb up and past the rocky outcrop that makes up Sierra Buttes, Game of Thrones fans will enjoy their discussion about their top 3 moments from the series. Settling down to a pleasant camp by a lake they continue to plan the miles ahead to make sure that they can reach Canada before their visas expire in September. A good day in Episode 90 of Trail & Errors.
The stars are bright overnight, and Ethan marvels at how much you can see when camped away from civilisation. Despite it being July the trail still has snowy sections, and they wear their spikes as they head out with expansive views out to the horizon. The elevation continues to drop, and the terrain continues to change, as they move further away from the Sierras. They should be done with the snow in a couple of days, but for the moment it still causes problems with navigation as the trail is often covered with snow. They enjoy their lunch, and feel they have their routine well dialled in now. The path when it runs high along the ridge lines is clear of snow with great views though windy, and then it dives into perfumed forests where there are pockets of snow, but none last for too long. They finish the day at a glorious campsite near a river, and agree it's been an awesome day on trail. Episode 89 of Trail & Errors :)
After a good night's sleep the guys are starting to lose track of days. They plan to dive into Truckee today for a quick resupply, and head down to the scenic road past Donner Lake to hitch into town. A smoothie and a bagel in town sets them up for the rest of their chores, and they start to plan further ahead as their days can be more structured now that the trail is consistent and flatter. People are everywhere in Truckee as it's still the holiday weekend, and it's evident that this area is popular for outdoor pursuits. Waiting awhile for a hitch back to trail two cars come along at once! Back on trail through beautiful woodland the walking is good, but Molly feels the whole pizza she had for lunch swelling her tummy. They reach Interstate 80, where the trail goes underneath the road through two tunnels, each of which is a flowing river of snowmelt! Climbing uphill after that icy-cold experience they emerge from the forest with fantastic views across the landscape from Castle Pass. Deciding to finish early they set up camp with the vista spread out before them. A new plan is developed for the rest of Northern California in order to maintain a good average daily mileage, and resupply points are earmarked for the days ahead. Join Molly & Ethan as they move north from the Lake Tahoe area and begin the final stretch towards Oregon... Episode 88 of Trail & Errors.
Although it's a bucolic setting camping next to a river, Molly & Ethan pay the price when they wake up this morning as all of their gear is wet with condensation. An annoying start to the day, as they head towards Donner Pass with two big climbs to conquer; Squaw Valley and then the colourfully named Tinker Knob. Ethan regrets not stretching this morning, as they head uphill and the snow appears again. The ski runs and infrastructure they walk past looks nonsensical in the summer-like conditions, but there is enough snow that a few skiers have hiked up to get some runs in. They bump into Sugar Glider, who had all his food stolen from his tent by a bear when he camped near Echo Lake! Across a river crossing and more snow their Sierra experience has really hardened them to the conditions. Ethan is europhic at the top of the climb to Tinker Knob, having an epiphany moment in realising how strong and fit he has become, and how the trail has crystallised ideas and plans he has for the future. They walk high along the ridgeline towards Donner Pass and the ski ranch there, where they get a free 42oz beer, and stop for burgers, music, and chat with their fellow hikers. Afterwards they move down the trail near to the road where they camp in preparation for hitching into Truckee tomorrow for a 5 day resupply that will take them onwards to Quincy. Enjoy the journey in Episode 87 of Trail & Errors.
Waking up to yet another beautiful sunny day the guys are hoping for less snow, a less obscured route, and more miles today. They heard what sounded like an impressive fireworks display over Lake Tahoe during the night, and this morning the PCT shows its friendly side with a pleasant clear trail. They consider the miles left to Canada, and the time they have left on their visa, and some mental maths reveals that they need to get to 20+ miles per day from now on. The snow continues to be an issue as they progress towards Granite Chief Wilderness, though they hear that after Sierra City (80 miles away) the PCT is clear. A picnic table lunch is a nice change from sitting in the dirt (or snow!), and they have great views over Lake Tahoe before heading back into a perfumed forest. Glissading down a couple of snowy sections, they push on past 20 miles for the day, though Molly takes a tumble off the trail :( . Eventually camping by a large river, they think about reaching Donner Pass tomorrow and getting some hot food and a free beer at the Ski Ranch there. A satisfying day with good miles made in Episode 86 of Tail & Errors :)
Day 100, and it's tough to get up from their warm tent. Heading towards Dick's Pass they walk alongside the still-frozen beauty of Aloha Lake and bump into quite a few Tahoe Rim Trail hikers who warn them about the snow ahead. EthaMol are unfazed by the potential conditions; they feel like expert hikers now, having trained in the SoCal desert and been tested by the High Sierra. The snow is annoying however, as it hides the trail and in the woods navigation is doubly difficult with false trails and lack of landmarks. The views when they occur are beautiful, but not Sierra beautiful, and although the strategy for the day (up a pass, down a pass, walk to camp) is reminiscent of the Sierras they really want to make more miles and are frustrated by the conditions. Slow hiking, getting lost often, and trudging through the snow leads to a wandering mind and homesickness, but they end the day by soaking their feet in a cold lake by their remote campsite. Motivation is difficult, and there is an element of self-pity as they prepare their dinner, but the food cheers them up and they consider their plans for the next couple of days getting to Truckee. Join the team on independence day in Episode 85 of Trail & Errors.
Encompassing two days either side of their visit to South Lake Tahoe, Episode 84 sees the guys rise under a clear sky and don their spikes for a snowy section towards town. With potential wildfires on the horizon the contrast with the snow clad Sierras is evident. Navigation is difficult through the thick trees with the trail under the snow. A big descent towards Tahoe teases with views of the lake, and as the car park comes into view they plan their restaurant visits for the day. With their best smiles and sales patter they get an easy sort-of hitch with an Uber driver into town for only $5. Eggs Benedict for breakfast with plans for an all-you-can-eat Indian buffet for lunch before they can check into their AirBnb they realise that South Lake Tahoe is big and time consuming to get around, and they feel out of place in all the 'normal' people preparing for the July 4th celebrations tomorrow. We hear about their lovely gourmet evening when they wake the following morning and begin their town-departing routine; post office visit, supermarket, troublesome bus journeys, helpful locals; eventually they get back to trail at the beautiful Echo Lake, where a milk shake slakes their thirst before they head out alongside the water past cabins and holiday homes with tourists enjoying the water. A long discussion about america, what it means to be a hiker, & thoughts on life in general, sees them move to the head of the lake with thoughts of the ascent to Dick's Pass tomorrow. Walk with Molly & Ethan on days 98 & 99 in Episode 84 of Trail & Errors :)
After a beautiful night under the stars with the Milky Way above the guys wake up hungry and it looks like a hot day ahead. Looking forward to Carson's Pass and the prospect of snacks from its visitors centre they head out discussing the food they'll have when they reach South Lake Tahoe tomorrow. Ethan feels a bit low, but after his mid-morning oatmeal he perks up. Much more infrastructure is evident on and from the trail; signposts, roads, noises; a lot more day hikers. Expansive views of the Sierras are behind them, although worryingly a forest fire is spotted across the other side of a lake. They reach Carson Pass; Trail Magic! After signing in with the friendly Barbara at the visitor's centre they return to the car park and sit down with a trail family of PCT hikers whom they've been leapfrogging and enjoy a beer and a sandwich and a recap of each others journey through the Sierras. Getting back on trail they plan to use the lunch they didn't need to eat to have with their supper, and when they eventually set up camp it's been a long mileage day and they reward themselves with some packed out coca-cola and a double meal before bed. Their last night in the (official) Sierras, they miss their own trail family as they bed down with dreams of luxury and food tomorrow in town. Episode 83 of Trail & Errors :)
Whilst there are differing definitions of where the High Sierra end, for Molly & Ethan today is the day where they really feel that the landscape is different and that they are entering a new section. Starting with a 1,000ft climb, they enter the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness; and when they get open views ahead it is a real morale boost; to be able to see the trail in front of them makes them recognise the progress they make as move ahead. When the trail is hidden they don't feel like they're moving forward. The trail switches between the snowy side of the valley with some hard icy glissades and the snow-free side. The snowy portions are, as always, tough to navigate through the trees as false footprints quickly lead them off the trail. Heading for Emmet's Pass they consider how far it is to Mt Shasta (actually in California), the next massive peak they will see. The trail is better today, and the snow is visibly disappearing. Emotions on the trail are mixed; there is a suggestion that the danger of the river crossings and mountain passes provided some excitement, and one now needs to look for a different beauty in the trail which can be self-similar. But the change in landscape is good, and they marvel at the amazing views ahead; Molly notices towns and fields and roads in the distance, and realises that largely the views they've been used to have a distinct lack of human impact. Feeling that their experience through the Sierras has made them strong, they find a 'dope' camping spot and bed down beneath the stars after their first 20+ mile day for some time. Episode 82 of Trail & Errors.
The cold morning causes a lazy start for Molly & Ethan, and they begin the trail with spikes on in the snow. It is soon hot though, as they climb past waterfalls on a well graded path which is in contrast to what they've been used to. During a couple of big climbs with interesting geological features Ethan talks about 'hiker hunger', and how his body is craving fats and sugars, and how despite trying to eat fruit and vegetables he is drawn to burgers and burritos. A fragrant walk through woodlands sees is evidence of the change in sections of the PCT, and Ethan is looking forward to further changes as they move into Northern California, though he prefers to be able to see the trail in the distance to feel that he is making progress; in the forest he can see only 20m ahead! Music drifts on the wind through the woods, and they come across Crazy Legs, out hiking for the weekend. What a nice, interesting guy; when he did the PCT in 2015 he entered the Sierra on June 1st with no snow and no need for micro-spikes; what a difference this year! Hiking together with him they eventually all camp together, finding common interests in Lord of the Rings, Biology, work values, and much else. Join them as they chat found the campfire and find out what it like to be a thru-hiker and how it changes what you value in life. Episode 81 of Trail & Errors. :)
After a Zero day in Bridgeport to celebrate Molly's birthday and the end of the tough Sierra section of the trail, the guys need to resupply. Bridgeport is a nice town, but the options for hiker supplies are thin on the ground, so EthaMol hitch to Walker, 30 odd miles away, and find the general store there well stocked, though they have to swap out some of their normal purchases for new items (being English 'weiners' are an unfamiliar item). After some BBQ ribs at a nearby diner they need to hitch back to the trail. As Walker is not a normal resupply town rides are difficult, & Molly particularly feels the stress of needing to get a lift, and when they eventually get a hitch it turns out to be a friendly but wild journey! Back at Sonora Pass they head uphill, and at the top Ethan notices that the view ahead has a distinct lack of snow on the horizon. Having got rid of their bear canisters and ice axes in Bridgeport the guys are travelling lighter, and their next stop in South Lake Tahoe is only another two days away. A short day back on trail, but the work resumes tomorrow. Episode 80 of Trail & Errors :)
A 5am alarm call marks the start of a long last push into town. They're on the trail promptly, and despatch Cascade Creek quickly via a log crossing and a short wade. Passing the 1000 mile marker is an emotional moment as they consider how far their feet have bought them. The miles come quickly as they cross their first bridge for days and the trail winds through a beautiful wooded valley. They're pleased of their late night push yesterday, and as they start a 2000ft ascent they spot a doe with two fawns in a clearing. The trail moves up out of the forest onto a wide scree covered ridgeline; they take the rocky top to the ridge rather than the steep & sketchy snow covered traverse along the mountainside. The views at the top are immense, and the trail is good, but the wind is insane as the follow the ridge along the western edge before dropping over to the other side through a windy gap with rocky buttresses pointing skyward. Sonora Pass (a road rather than a trail pass) is in sight below, but there're still some snow fields to traverse and eventually glissade down. They reach the car park, and are immediately blessed by meeting John; who offers them water and energy bars. Another stranger approaches with fresh fruit from the farmer's market! John is dropping off some friends who are hiking northwards, and his kindness continues by offering them a ride all the way to Bridgeport, and enroute gives Ethan a pair of sunglasses to replace his broken ones; what a super kind guy - thanks John! The find themselves at the quaint Redwood Hotel in Bridgeport, where Ethan's first priority is to buy some cereal :) . Join them at dinner, where they discuss the recent section and its highs and lows in Episode 79 of Trail & Errors.
Another super tough day on the trail, and this section is certainly living up to its reputation as the sting in the tail of the Sierras. With Stubblefield Creek their immediate problem, they know that today their feet will get wet. It takes an hour to figure out how to get across Stubblefield, with a few failed attempts and tactical retreats, with Ethan always going first it falls to him to suffer the most. At least the creek level is much lower this early in the morning. Eventually they make it over, but suffer greatly from the effects of the cold water. By the end of the following climb they are much recovered, and able to appreciate the views over Wilma Lake. Ethan falls several time in the snow; having skied from an early age Molly is a bit more sure footed in the slippery conditions. Taking cognisance of previous trail comments proves frustrating, as the conditions seem to have changed so much. They cross the edge of Wilma Lake to where they've been told to avoid crossing Falls Creek and follow it upstream; a decision they come to regret as the difficult miles pass and the crossing conditions only get worse! Spirits are low, with Molly nursing an achilles issue and yearning to get to town for her birthday tomorrow, but at least Falls Creek is pretty as the follow it uphill on the opposite side to the PCT itself. Eventually tiring of bushwhacking their way up the eastern edge they decide to swim across, again Ethan bears the brunt as he makes two trips to help keep Molly's pack as dry as possible. It's now 5.30pm, they've done 8 miles, and with 10 to go they buckle down and push on. Molly prefers the difficulties to be dangerous rather than attritional, but they're determined to get to mile 1000. Deciding to night hike they eventually reach camp at 11.30 just before Cascade Creek, deciding not to cross at night and get wet all over again! The challenge is real...Episode 78 of Trail & Errors.
Some days are tougher than others on the trail, and today proves to be a tough one. It starts with Molly postholing immediately as they cross snowfields after a wondrous starry night in camp. After a PUD (Pointless Up and Down) they begin to see less snow on the trail as they descend to Piute Creek, their first major crossing of the day. After the surprise of yesterday's crossings being less stressful than anticipated they are disappointed that today is not the same. They choose to cross Piute upstream where it is split into several channels rather than swim across at the point where the PCT crosses the creek. After a bit of searching, and using notes they've had from friends ahead on the trail, they find logs to carry them across the first couple of tributaries, and Ethan appreciates the beauty and the scent of the pine forest they're in. They take a break by the meandering river amongst some massive trees. They continue across the marshy ground before heading uphill. By lunchtime they have made only 5 slow miles; with many physical obstacles, water crossings, and snow making navigation difficult. A sketchy descent from Seavey Pass to Rancheria Creek sees them slipping and sliding towards the raging river. The trail goes alongside the Rancheria/Kerrick Creek for 4 miles before crossing; unfortunately the steep snow banks right by the river make for nerve-wracking walking, with microspikes donned they debate using their ice axes as well. This does give the the chance to scout for crossing points as they follow the river, but it seems pretty brutal all the way along. It's tough to find the PCT, with false tracks in the snow leading them astray. They get halfway across the creek on a log, but have to retreat as the final section is too dangerous. They find another log and make it part way across, before braving the cold waters and fording the next two sections. They're euphoric at making it over the creek, but it's taken them 5 hours to make the last 4 miles, it's 7pm, and they still have 4 miles to go. They summon their resolve and head uphill again, eventually making camp after 10pm before Stubblefield Creek, which they don't want to take on in the dark. It's a hard slog today, in Episode 77 of Trail & Errors.
Molly lives up to the genesis of her trail name, waking up with a blistered and burnt scalp yet again. Plenty of condensation from the nearby rivers make it a wet start, and it is cold in the shaded forests despite the occasional random open meadow. Meeting couple of southbound hikers they hear benevolent reports about the first of the major crossings today; McCabe Creek, which turns out to be straightforward despite last week's reports about it being problematic. Return Creek follows shortly after, and then Spiller Creek. Each is less sketchy than anticipated, leading Molly & Ethan to surmise that last week all the crossings throughout the Sierra were bad due to the hot weather (as they'd experienced at Bear Creek), and this week's colder temperatures had returned the snow to normal (rather than accelerated) melting rates. There's still snow covering the trail, making the ascents slow and the descents terrifying, but the absence of anyone else on the trail is welcome and EthaMol enjoy the solitude. Losing the trail in the snow they reach Matterhorn Creek away from the PCT crossing point, but this turns out to be in their favour as they find a good place to get to the other side. They make the long climb up to Benson Pass through suncups in the sun, and are rewarded with better views than they'd heard, before descending to camp after a longer than anticipated 18 mile day. Episode 76 of Trail & Errors.
A melancholic start to the day, as Molly & Ethan say goodbye to their trail family, who are all making a side trip into Yosemite Valley leaving EthaMol to continue on the PCT alone :( . It's the end of the Phi Chi Tau fraternity/sorority! The guys are now heading across the top of Yosemite, with 40 miles of river crossings ahead. A bucolic break watching deer across the meadow precedes their arrival at Tuolumne Meadows, where the first road for 240 miles crosses the PCT. This is also the only road to cross the Sierra from the east between Kennedy Meadows and Sonora Pass, and normally there is an open resupply store, campsite, and restaurant to refresh hungry hikers; but everything is still shut as the road only opened for an hour each morning and afternoon a couple of days ago. Not realising that cars are currently forbidden from stopping, Molly & Ethan are thinking of Trail Magic when they hit the road, but their only succour is a bench with a seat back to sit on (you don't realise the things you'll miss whilst on the trail!). Despite the absence of people they feel a bit like tourists in this normally busy part of the park, & they visit Soda Springs & take in the majesty of Cathedral Peak from well maintained trails with information boards. Mosquitos are their only company as the reach their first notable river crossing at Delaney Creek, which despite reports turns out to be straightforward. The conditions can change rapidly, and the steep slippery log above a 'no fail' torrent is high and dry and the river beneath not as raging...phew. The thunder of Toulumne Falls announces its presence, and they are in awe of its power and beauty. Hitting camp relatively early for a Ramen-Bomb it's a satisfying and successful day on the PCT. Episode 75 of Trail & Errors :)
A great campsite, & with their solid crew around them, Molly & Ethan awake to birdsong after a lovely deep sleep. Plenty of chat today amongst the team, as most of them are heading to Yosemite valley tomorrow and this is likely to be their last day all together for (perhaps) a very long time :( . Donahue Pass is today's obstacle, but it is the last of the High Sierra passes! Whilst the previous weeks have been defined by snowy mountain passes with some river crossings, the next section is defined by abundant water with some snow sections. The heavy melt is evident as the water often cascades down the trail itself. They bump into Sugar Glider; whose appearance reminds them that today is 'hike naked' day...mmm. (Ed. maybe I should add his photo to the website?). A long last lunch with everyone includes gossip from the trail; SOBO got lost again, we hear about Hong Kong Tyrone, Highlander, Slaughterhouse; they lament the absence of Trail Magic in the Sierras; as (naked) Crunch and (non-naked) Gilligan head out they make an odd pair. Donahue Pass approaches, and crossing Rush Creek beforehand turns out to be straightforward as the snowbridge is still (marginally? luckily?) intact. Ethan analyses the best way to tackle a short steep snowy section before the decision (and his feet) is (are) taken away from him. Happy this is the last of the passes; a long climb up Donahue makes them pleased that this is the highest they'll be on the trail ever again, and they remember sleeping up at Pinchot (even higher). There is a tremendous glissade down the other side (check the website for a video), but now thoughts turn to river crossings and the group splitting up. With the road to Yosemite only partially opened today, the side team plan for a lie-in to time their arrival (at the first PCT road crossing for over 240 miles) with potential hitchhike opportunities, whilst EthaMol realise this was their last day with some very good friends (as foreigners they have a 'hard' visa deadline to reach Canada); hopefully they will all meet up again (Ed; I'd like to meet them too!). Episode 74 of Trail & Errors :)
The day begins with 2.5 miles over Mammoth Pass to get back to the PCT, and the team are surprised how much snow has melted since they were last on the trail. Through pine forests and past Minaret Falls the trail is beautiful and different from the remote Sierra they've been hiking through for the last few weeks. Ethan is surprised by the distant sound of a truck, a sound not heard from the trail for 300 miles. The see the Devil's Postpile rock formation from across the river, and think about the climb over Donahue Pass they will tackle tomorrow. Thoughts also again turn to the dangerous state of the rivers they will have to ford. Their bags are heavy with 8 days worth of food, and after two 'zero' days in town their legs are heavy too. Part of the crew discuss their plans for a side trip into Yosemite, but Molly & Ethan plan to press on to Sonora Pass 110 miles away. Steep switchbacks take them up to their campsite; with beautiful views across the valley and a stunning sunset they enjoy one of the last nights all together as a group in episode 73 of Trail & Errors.
After a couple of days in Mammoth Lakes the team finish their shopping and head back to the trail. Ethan runs through the supplies they've bought for the next 8 days, with a focus on cheese. They hitchhike back to trail, and are faced with the 4 mile closed road walk back to Horsehoe Lake, followed by 3 miles over Mammoth Pass. With itchy feet from 2 days in town they are keen to get back on trail, but with a big group gathered at Horseshoe Lake they collectively decide to sleep there and a big social evening ensues. Talk turns to the dangers of the river crossings to come, but Molly & Ethan realise that there is always something to worry about and it is better to verify the actual danger yourself instead of relying on rumour and hearsay. They discuss their decision not to join the group planning a detour into Yosemite valley itself. They talk about the elevated CO2 levels at their camp spot and it provides another dangerous element that one could spend time worrying about. Lamenting a lost spoon/fork (spork) Ethan recaps the day; tomorrow they will be back on the trail proper and heading towards Yosemite and the beginning of the end of the Sierra. Episode 72 of Trail & Errors.
Enjoy the sounds of a 'double zero' in the ski town of Mammoth Lakes, as the guys take a couple of days off to recover from their 10 days in the mountains. Thoughts move ahead to Yosemite, where they will enter the park in a couple of days. Funk entertains us on the guitar, they all think about going skiing for the day (the slopes are open!), they discuss reasons for doing the PCT and the inherent dangers. Molly, Ethan, and SOBO plunder a bakery for croissants and doughnuts, and they get their first warning about the swelling river crossings in northern Yosemite. They visit a very Californian smoothie bar for an $11 Happy Belly & Banana smoothie, they bump into Zach, who they last saw in the fading light going astray over Mather Pass in the high Sierra. They again discuss the river crossings ahead, before checking into their AirBnB...wow! It's awesome :) With laundry done, some new shorts for Ethan, and a BBQ planned with everyone that evening the team are happy to be in civilisation for the moment; Episode 71 of Trail & Errors.
It's a cold morning on trail, and after a 10 day stretch out in the sticks Molly & Ethan are pleased that finally they will reach civilisation today! Bumping into Ribbit (Tom) & Nellie, they start to discuss their food plans for the day, with burgers due to be the first of many meals. Ethan stumbles across what looks like a Porcupine kill, and takes some quills as a keepsake for his mum & dad (I'm sure they'll be grateful!). Thoughts again turn to town and they weigh their immediate need for cleanliness against their desire to eat some proper food (Ethan yearns for cereal). Unfortunately Reds Meadow, the normal resupply point just off trail, is still closed due to the snow, and they turn off the PCT to take the 2.5 mile side route over Mammoth Pass to Horseshoe Lake and a road. Seeing the absence of cars in the car park their fears are realised when they discover the road to Horseshoe Lake is still closed and they have another 4 miles to walk to get to an open section. Eventually reaching a point where they can hitch they get into Mammoth Lakes and head to the Motel 6 where Funk & Cricket have booked a shared room for a few of them. A euphoric rendezvous discussing the obstacles they've encountered over this difficult stretch through the Sierras (& a whole box of cereal for Ethan) they are pleased to have reached town and are looking forward to a couple of days off and a nice AirBnB from tomorrow that Funk & Cricket have organised for a load of them. Episode 70 of Trail & Errors :)
Molly & Ethan wake with views over Edison Lake with a waterfall in the distance. Ethan spends some time reflecting on the experience of hiking through the high Sierra, and they agree that you have to earn your views. After a log crossing they begin the steep hike up to Silver Pass, entering the snow zone once again. After 9 days on the trail with no sign of civilisation they are looking forward to town, but the false summits of Silver Pass temper their joy as they struggle upwards with cold feet and sweaty bodies. The 2.5 mile ascent takes a couple of hours, but the similar descent takes 20 minutes, as they are able to make 3 long glissades back down the other side of the pass. They take stock of the effect of being out in the wild for such a long period of time, and how the effort of getting off the trail when there are no roads or immediate access points adds to the feeling of remoteness. The discuss their cravings for town, and what they miss from home. With plans for a 'double dinner' when they reach Mammoth Lakes they push on in the cold and camp within striking distance of town. An interesting and reflective episode of Trail & Errors; number 69 :)
A dramatic day on the PCT. Team EthaMol wake early, a poor night's sleep for Ethan whose sleeping pad has sprung a few leaks. Deer roam nearby, but unfortunately so do the mosquitos! Although they have yet to see any bears, they do come across some bear tracks, which is the cause of much excitement. They still feel the distance remaining to town, and are more than ready to rinse off the miles when they get there. Climbing uphill over Selden Pass the eat their breakfast on top, and discuss the river crossings ahead. Reaching the notorious Bear Creek after a long descent, they can see their friends on the other side and prepare themselves for the crossing. The water is swift, deep, and strong; and despite trying a recognised fording technique they are not entirely successful, and Ethan gets another rinsing. They dry off in the sun before pushing on over some further smaller creeks. Reaching their planned campsite they are reluctant to camp in the snow and push on over Bear Ridge and down a very steep descent which is the cause of some consternation; the benefit of this extended trek is however the accomplishment of more miles than they'd thought possible. All's well that ends well in Episode 68 of Trail & Errors.
The watch-word for today's journey is 'wet'. The guys begin the day with oatmeal and peanut butter overlooking Evolution Creek winding it's way through the valley. It's an honour to be in such majestic surroundings, and as they move further down towards the river SOBO catches up with them. With the creek in full flood they opt to cross at a slow but wide section that meanders through a flooded meadow, and having spotted the rest of their 'tramily' across the creek they secure their belongings as best they can and wade across the chest deep waters. Knowing that Mammoth Lakes is still 4/5 days away there is a quick planning meeting as a couple of the team are heading off-trail to resupply at Vermillion Valley Resort (a day's hike and a ferry ride away) where they can get internet and reserve a suitable AirBnb for them all to enjoy when they get to Mammoth. The team fragments for the rest of the day, and, once they're hiking again, Ethan promptly falls on his butt crossing a small stream and gets a proper soaking. They camp early for him to dry off, and think about the big Bear Creek crossing they'll need to make tomorrow. The famous Californian mosquitos are starting to appear in numbers, but this doesn't detract from another super day out in the Sierra wilderness. Episode 67 of Trail & Errors :)
Muir Pass (11,973ft) beckons, but it is a long 6 miles away uphill in the snow. Picking wild onions to add the their lunch, Molly & Ethan enjoy the scenery, but the more gradual ascent of Muir Pass leads to many false summits and some frustration. The sun is beating down, and although the surroundings are immense it is difficult to look up in the blinding light. Becoming tired of walking in the snow they set up a shelter with their ground sheet for lunch, and soak in the views. They recognise that they are in the middle of nowhere, 5 days walk behind them to civilisation, 5 days forward, and they feel the strain of being out for so long. As they watch avalanches fall across the valley SOBO shows up, and gives them news of other teams on the trail and a recap of recent events. Eventually they reach Muir Hut, and begin the long slog downhill through shin deep-snow. The views however, are better than ever, with an amazing forest coating the valley floor ahead. They can see Evolution Creek winding its way through the trees, and are aware that they will need to cross it tomorrow. They appreciate the joy of being just the two of them away in the wilderness, and setting up camp they take a quick inventory of their supplies and check that they are on schedule and can make it to Mammoth in a few days time. An awesome day on trail in a fantastic location; Episode 66 of Trail & Errors :)
The team begins the ascent of Mather Pass (12,096ft) early in the cold, with Molly & Ethan leading the way. Turning out to be the most technical climb thus far, they take the eastern side up avoiding the avalanche danger on the normal route, however the angle of the pitch is significantly increased. Across rock-climbs and traverses they reach the pass, before descending down the other side with stunning views along the valley. As they cross the snow line they come alongside a raging river, and stop for a swim in the icy waters before drying off in the sun. They spot some deer in the trees, and are pleased to be out of the snow for the moment. Making as much ground as they can towards Muir Pass, the views and the scenery are jaw-droppingly gorgeous. Best day so far, Trail & Errors Episode 65.
Waking early in the cold atop Pinchot Pass, the immediate need is again water, and the guys begin the descent with a rock climb down to the snow fields before they can find a water source. They spot Marmots in the snow, and plan the day's journey to the foot of Mather Pass; renown as the most technical of the high passes. There are a few big creek crossings today, including the deadly South Fork of the King's River, although they realise that they may be able to avoid the two crossings of this river with some bushwhacking. They also begin to think about Evolution Creek which they will hit in a couple of days, perhaps the largest crossing they will encounter. The climb towards Mather begins, and as they move up into the bowl beneath the pass they search for water which is still surprisingly difficult to come by when you need it. They camp below the pass, and spend the evening planning tomorrow's assault. The normal route from the southern facing right hand side is cut across by avalanches and, feeling that the conditions will be poorer and more dangerous they decide to tackle the pass from the steeper, east-facing right hand side, cutting across patches of rocks and steep traverses. Zach decides to take on the pass immediately, and the rest of the crew watch him as he picks his way up the mountainous terrain in the evening light, shouting directions (he get's lost!) and encouragement. For Ethamol that challenge is tomorrow; Episode 64 of Trail & Errors.
After a good night's sleep, the team awaken to a cold morning. They break camp with cold numb hands and immediately have a river crossing to contend with. Molly does a good job navigating with the trail still beneath the snow, but their confidence is shaken when the meet a hiker heading back towards Glen and Kearsarge Passes, having decided a river crossing ahead was too much for him and deciding he'd rather hike two days back down the trail and get to town to wait for the conditions to calm down. Deciding to keep to their mantra of checking things out for themselves, they push on, and come to another camp site where a couple of groups are still sleeping, including Funk & Cricket! Waiting for the others to wake up thoughts turn to strategies for the crossings, and with quite a few hikers there are more than enough opinions with some opting to turn around, some wanting to wait, and a few wanting to go ahead no matter what. Molly & Ethan realise that they weren't the only ones to struggle with yesterday's climb over Glen Pass, and are pleased that they took their time and didn't try to push too hard. There are slight tensions at the camp concerning the river crossings, and as they are a bit slower than most other people Molly & Ethan head out, intending to wait by anything too extreme for others to catch up. They still have time to enjoy the sighting of a grouse, before the two of them ford a difficult river by linking arms and crossing together. They push on uphill now towards Pinchot Pass (12,139ft) and the trail is tough to follow. A few members of the now splintered groups catch up, including Funk & Cricket, Tom & Nellie, & Zach. The 5 of them reach the incredible views at the top of Pinchot, and decide to camp on top of the world. Listening to their echoes bounce around the mountains and enjoying the most incredible sunset before the Milky Way spreads itself across the sky the team bed down and think about the challenges tomorrow will bring. A challenging day is completed in Episode 63 of Trail & Errors.
Glen Pass (12,000ft) proves a formidable challenge for the team today. They have a nice surprise before they get there though, as, having set off at 2am to get over Kearsarge Pass, Funk & Cricket pass by as Molly & Ethan are breaking camp. Water is again short, despite being surrounded by snow. A long tiring ascent up towards the bowl below the pass follows, with much evidence of avalanches. A miscommunication sees Ethan go off track, though they are distracted from their frustration by the far-off howl of some coyotes. Exhausted, they reach the summit, and plan their strategy for the rest of the day's miles, however the descent proves more dangerous than the ascent. With a heavier pack and less experience in the snow Ethan struggles a bit to keep his confidence (& his balance!). Eventually getting to safer ground, they pause for a long break and again struggle to find water. Their first proper river crossing follows; and they feel the biting cold of the snow-fed river. Struggling to navigate in the featureless landscape, they end the day safely at camp, though recounting the further river crossing and additional rock climb back to the trail makes them wonder if they were being smart or foolish to keep on walking until well after dark. A dramatic day in episode 62 of Trail & Errors.
Covering a Zero day (72) and a Nearo day (73) from town back over Kearsarge Pass (11,200ft), episode 61 begins in Bishop, where the team prepare for a possible 12 day section in the wilderness. Ethan gives us the low-down on the chores involved in resupplying, and talks about some of the forthcoming challenges in the high sierra, such as frostbite. Not knowing whether to hope that the hot temperatures mean less snow but higher river crossings, or that the high altitude will mean slower travel but safer streams, they spend their last night in the cool town of Bishop. The next day (73) begins with a game of Ping Pong, before Molly & Ethan hitch 42 miles south to Independence, then another hitch 21 miles up to the Onion Valley car park, where they begin the climb back up Kearsarge Pass at 4pm. The snow is soft and noticeably less evident on the trail going up, and they reach the pass without too much difficulty and enjoy the evening light and the stars coming out. Water is short, and the presence of avalanches is evident as they descend back towards the end of the 7.6 mile return trail to the PCT, and they eventually camp just shy of the trail itself. Tired and worn out they reflect on a good days work and look forward to Glen Pass tomorrow, the first of several high passes they'll encounter of the next few days. Episode 61 of Trail & Errors.
A beautiful morning greets the team as they hike 2 miles along the trail before turning off to the 7.4 mile side trail to Onion Valley over Kearsarge Pass (3400m). Passing frozen BullFrog Lake, they spot deer and coyote tracks, and begin the switchbacks up to the pass. The view down the other side is surreal, as they can see the sun blasted desert down through the valley. It's a hot day, and they pass several hikers making there way back up the pass to rejoin the trail - they look forward to that in a day or so! Managing to glissade down some sections, they reach the car park; where their permits are checked by a friendly ranger and they meet Chipmunk; a trail angel who gives them doughnuts, chicken sandwiches, soda, a lollipop; and best of all a ride of 55 miles to Bishop, where they check into the Hostel California before borrowing some bikes and riding to the local brewery for beer and burgers! Episode 60 of Trail & Errors... :)
Forester Pass, the highest point on the PCT at 13,200ft (just over 4,000m). After a very early start the guys head out, and unfortunately the snow has not frozen overnight making the going very slow and frustrating as they posthole with every step. As they come into view of the pass Ethan reflects on the challenge ahead and they begin the climb towards the switchbacks and the infamous crossing of the snow chute near the top. Listen to Ethan as he crosses (there's also a video on their website). They climb the final few metres to the top before enjoying the expansive views. Realising that these high passes will be an almost daily occurrence, they begin the steep descent, postholing up to their thighs before managing to glissade down. With thoughts of reaching the town of Bishop tomorrow, they are happy to have picked the safest way down from the pass avoiding the avalanche danger. Arriving at camp Ethan has a wardrobe malfunction, and they are all reunited when SOBO catches up the the team and they chat about the day's events. Episode 59 of Trail & Errors :)
Molly & Ethan awake to a beautiful morning after a well earned 10hr sleep. They reflect on their good decision to skip the ascent of Mt Whitney, and they begin the 2 day climb towards Forester Pass and the highest point on the PCT. They tackle the first of what will become many sketchy river crossings, and trudge slowly through the semi-melted snow. They link up with SOBO, who has also decided to skip Mt Whitney. The views are even more incredible, and they enjoy the less frantic pace they'd been keeping to make the weather window for Whitney. They spend lunchtime discussing their favourite foods, and the myriad uses of Peanut Butter as a condiment. Eventually making camp at Tyndall Creek, they are pleased when Funk & Cricket arrive later on, having made it part way up Mt Whitney before the elements forced them back. A successful setup for the challenge of Forester Pass tomorrow... Episode 58 of Trail & Errors :)
Encompassing Days 66 & 67 (Ethan refers to these as Days 56 & 57 'on trail'), the team awake in Lone Pine, where, as usual, they struggle to escape the town vortex and leave in good time. Eventually getting a hitch back to the trail they are taken the wrong way and left stranded in the middle of nowhere! Luckily before too long a friendly local gives them a lift up the 22 mile dead-end road to Horseshoe Meadow, where they help a stranded motorist get his car out of the deep snow. Hiking up the few sludgy miles of Trail Pass back to the PCT, the weather is forbidding, but the beauty overcomes the cold wet conditions as they make a few miles past Cottonwood Pass to Chicken Spring Lake. The next morning they awake to frozen socks, frozen shoes, frozen gloves; frozen everything! They start out with a big climb in threatening weather, and soon realise that 20 miles days are but a pipe dream in the Sierras at the moment. After such a heavy winter they will be lucky to make 10 miles a day through the snow. Despondence sets in as they reconsider their ability to reach Mt Whitney in time to climb it; and Molly finds that the effect of such a tight schedule is similar to work or uni deadlines, a mindset that she'd come to the PCT to avoid. Funk & Cricket have pushed on with the original goal in mind, but Molly & Ethan fall back in the hail & snow (SOBO is further back down the trail) and seek shelter under a tree, where they come to the decision to abort their plan for Mt Whitney and revert to a more relaxed attitude to their daily goals. A tough day on the PCT, though Ethan's spirits are lifted with the spectacular sight of a Bald Eagle perched in a tree. Episode 57 of Trail & Errors.
Team EthaMol quickly conquer the 3 sludgy PCT miles to the Trail Pass trailhead that will take them to Horseshoe Meadow and on into Lone Pine. They encounter their first ranger; who checks their permits and bear canisters, and gives them some restaurant tips for their town visit. Leaving a note in the snow for SOBO to follow, they get to the car park and wait for her, before managing to get a hitch into the quaint town of Lone Pine for beer and pizza. Episode 56 from Day 66 (trail day 57) of Trail & Errors :)
In today's episode from Day 65 (Ethan refers to this as day 56 'on trail') the guys plan their route into Lone Pine for a re-supply. The beauty is awesome, mountainous and forested; interrupted occasionally by low-flying F-16s. Paradoxically in the snow, water is not always easy to come by, and Molly & Ethan need to plan their strategy accordingly. Another super campsite with a fire and good company sees them make good progress in the cold and snowy conditions. Episode 55 of Trail & Errors :)
Waking early to birdsong, Molly & Ethan push on to catch up with the others; and start to hit the snow - the novelty soon wears off, but the beauty doesn't. They hear about a Mountain Lion sighting back down the trail, enjoy the birds and the Marmots, reflect on home life versus the trail, and ultimately are reunited with everyone (including SOBO; yay!) at a great campsite where they dry off by the fire. A foretaste of the challenges to come...Episode 54 of Trail & Errors.
Day 54 on trail, day 63 overall; the guys find that they've lost their match fitness, and they struggle to make the miles as they leave Kennedy Meadows and enter the Sierra. Although the going is slow, the scenery is fantastic, and the views abound as they spend the day ascending through pine forests and meadows with the mountains as a backdrop. Join Ethan & Molly as they begin the next stage of their trip; Episode 53 of Trail & Errors.
Back at Kennedy Meadows, the guys say goodbye to Gary (who has helped them out tremendously, what a great guy), and Ethan gives us an update on where they've been, what they've done, how they're preparing for the challenge of the Sierras, and what their expectations are. Listen in to get an idea of the transition from desert to mountain in Episode 52 of Trail & Errors... :)
An early start in the cold sees the guys begin their longest day yet in an effort to reach Kennedy Meadows before a forecast snowstorm. They are aided by some surprise Trail Magic (thanks Jim!) where Molly enjoys Chilli for breakfast. After a long climb, her and Ethan have lunch high on the ridge, then Ethan pushes on alone to try to organise a lift from the trail to their destination at Grumpy Bear's Retreat. He misses the trail and walks an extra 2 miles to the General Store, but everything works out and they meet up at the planned location eventually, where they enjoy beers & burgers, and congratulate themselves on walking 700 miles through Southern California. The desert section is done, well done Molly & Ethan! Episode 51 of Trail & Errors :)
Woken up by their fellows moving by (and a passing deer), Molly & Ethan spend the day trying to catch up with their trail crew. Extraordinary weather as they round Owen's Peak; low cloud and threatening rain comes and goes with massive views down the valley in the sunshine suddenly obscured by fog and rolling cloud. The photos from today are worth a look; the trees having a coating of hoar frost which flutters down in the wind creating an otherworldly atmosphere to the day. Eventually the crew reunite at camp, thinking about tomorrow and their last day in the 'desert'. Episode 50 of Trail & Errors.
Waking up to the expected rain, team EthaMol are pleased to have decided to head into Ridgecrest for food and supplies. SOBO joins them, as Molly & Ethan have their first visit to a Walmart, where they all meet Gary; a super-nice guy who offers to give them a lift back to the trail later (& will feature again on day 62). With ice-cream for breakfast, all-you-can-eat Chinese for lunch, wi-fi at McDonalds, the guys are pretty bloated by the time Gary takes them back to Walker Pass and joins them for some wine and birthday cake for Prof. The wind is brutal, and ignoring the gods of the coin-toss that makes the others decide to stay put; Molly & Ethan strike out to make some distance before bedtime. They make it 0.3 miles before deciding to camp; that's dedication to the trail! Episode 49 of Trail & Errors :)
After a good night's sleep under a Joshua tree, the team start out with a 1500ft climb in the heat. With reports of rain on the way, they hurry towards Walker Pass, and are rewarded with their first glimpses of the Sierras ahead...wow! With Ethan keeping an eager eye out for bears, they descend towards their camp spot, deciding to hitch into Ridgecrest tomorrow to celebrate Prof's birthday and enjoy Walmart followed by a bottomless Chinese buffet. Enjoy the chaos of dinnertime with the crew, as they discuss the random trail thoughts that occur whilst hiking all day, the relative merits of different hot sauces, and the depiction of trail food as art. Episode 48 of Trail & Errors :)
Leaving the picturesque Lander's Camp, Ethan's hopes for a day of shady forest walking are immediately dashed as they move into exposed scrubby hillsides in the blazing sun. A long day of dry walking is tough going, but spirits (and the views) are good, and they eventually cowboy camp at the well-maintained water cache at Bird Spring Pass. Thanks Trail Angels! Episode 47 of Trail & Errors... :)
Another day with long dry stretches, Ethan marvels at the ever-changing scenery; pink thistles dot the landscape as they move in and out of verdant forests with a soundtrack of birdsong and enter flowered meadows with grand vistas. They certainly feel like they've moved into bear country, and they discuss they looming challenge of the snowy Sierras (along with the merits of different types of burrito!). Professor slips into a cow turd; providing a dose of hilarity, and Panda (!) re-appears after taking some time off trail. Get a taste of their adventure in Episode 46 of Trail & Errors :)
Despite the downpour from yesterday water is on short supply, and the guys are forced to start the day with a dry breakfast. It is hot, the climbs are steep, and morale is low; but some killer country music supply by the Funkmeister keeps them going for a long day. Ethan finds his first scorpion, backs are sweaty in the heat, water is running low, and decisions are made on the result of a coin-toss; be part of the Trail & Errors in Episode 45.
Reflecting on a great couple of days in the fab location of Tehachapi, EthaMol and their 'tramily'' head up the trail, bumping into Co-op 'slack-packing' between the two highways that lead back to town. Descending to the second highway after 8 miles, the heavens open (this is southern California!!!) and Ethan finds himself in a precarious situation between forgotten poles and flash floods, whilst the rest of the team dodge marble sized hailstones and unsuccessfully try to stay dry. Ironically this section of the trail is lacking in water sources, and with provisions running low they camp halfway up a steep climb ready to make an early start tomorrow. Episode 44 of Trail & Errors.
Covering Days 44 & 45, the team awake behind the Red House BBQ before moving to the more salubrious surroundings of the plush Best Western in Tehachapi. Their 'Double Zero' here encompasses a Farmer's Market, a miniature horse, a hot tub, a swimming pool, multiple visits to the 'Thai Hatchapi', a horseshoe competition with Fake News, a herd of Elk, a nodding (full sized) horse, prime rib from Prometheus, and incredibly generous trail angel hosts Kathy & Scott; this is what America is really like, AWESOME! Episode 43 of Trail & Errors :)
They guys know it's going to be a hot one as they struggle with the heat and realise it's only 9.30am! With the prospect of another day of dry hiking, they load up with water and head straight uphill for 4 miles. Happily the howling winds had died overnight, but the rationing of water put a damper on spirits, until a surprise water cache at the top of the hill - thank you trail angels! Downhill from the summit to the road, the team dream of BBQ ribs and beer; they are rewarded with a quick hitch into Tehachapi and a ride to the Red House BBQ where they pitch their tents in the yard and head inside to load up. Join their 'tramily' as they fall asleep to the sound of passing trains in Episode 42 of Trail & Errors.
After a surprisingly well rested sleep at Wee Vill Market, the guys spend the day hanging out and eating before moving on to spend the next night at nearby Hikertown; a slightly weird experience... Encompassing two days, Episode 41 sees them then wake up early the following morning to begin the long LA Aquaduct section. Renown as the hottest section of the trail, EthaMol tackle it on an unusually benign day, the main issue being the wind which increases to dramatic levels in the afternoon. Live the experience with Molly & Ethan; Episode 41 of Trail & Errors. :)
Waking up to birdsong, EthaMol and their 'tramily' target Hikertown and the nearby Wee Vill market in 20 miles for their next stop; and heads down they push through the miles as the mountain landscape descends towards the flat desert plain. With massive views out across the Mojave, they move through long grasses and ranch-lands down to the highway, carefully planning the type of burgers they will eat tonight. A kind lift down the highway brings them to Wee Vill market, where they enjoy some food and a beer, before bedding down to the sound of passing trucks! Enjoy their experience in Episode 40 of Trail & Errors.
Leaving Casa de Luna, the guys head uphill in the heat. Trying to avoid any poison oak, they reflect on yesterday's fun, and look ahead to the forthcoming sections. Surprised once again by the vegetation, they can see the flat Mojave desert in front of them yet enter a shady forested area. Exploring caves and ending with a donated beer round a campfire, listen in to Episode 39 of Trail & Errors.
What do you do during a Zero day at Casa de Luna? Organise the inaugural Hiker Trash Decathlon of course! In a break from the norm, listen in as the Potato Brothers (Mashed & Sweet) and their on-course assistant, Bomber, commentate on the proceedings. Let chaos reign! (Ed; normal podcast service will be resumed in the next episode...)
Molly & Ethan travel the final 12 miles through clouds of butterflies to the aptly named town of Green Valley and the wonderful 'Casa de Luna'. Hear about this short section of trail and discover the story of how Joe & Terrie Anderson came to share their home with thousands of smelly hikers every year. Many thanks to them and all other trail angels who make hiking the PCT such a rich and interesting experience. :)
https://www.facebook.com/casadelunapct/
Zero by name, zero by nature; Molly & Ethan wake up with the chickens at Hiker Heaven and have lazy day watching the resident Great Horned Owls fledge their young. Taking in Days 35 & 36, they discuss resupply options, opt-in to a forthcoming side trip to Zion National Park, get some tattoos, bump into an old friend, and struggle to leave town without somehow filling their bellies. They head a dozen miles up the wooded trail to Bouquet Canyon, dodging poison oak and marvelling at the abundant butterflies. Get a feeling of what it's like to be a PCT hiker in episode 36 of Trail & Errors. :)
EthaMol wake up in the rain, quite literally, and hike the last few miles into Agua Dulce and Hiker Heaven. Crossing the LA commuter train track and passing the famous Vasquez Rocks, they move through prairie lands reminiscent of old Western movies before hitting the tiny cowboy town. Hear about their journey, and join them as they reach the friendly hospitality of Hiker Heaven in Episode 35 of Trail & Errors.
Travelling on from Messenger Flats, join the guys as they descend from the bearable heat at 6000ft down towards the valley floor and the unbearable heat at 2000ft. Passing snakes, quail, a mockingbird; they enjoy a pizza break and some ice cream at the Acton KOA before pressing on a few miles more to camp. Enjoy the flavours of the trail, and meet & hear about some of the characters in episode 34 of Trail & Errors.
One of the many challenges on the PCT is the heat; combine that with a steep climb and you know it's going to be a tough day! Experience the highs and lows of Day 32 with Molly & Ethan, as they journey to Messenger Flats campground. With double trail magic providing them the fuel (thanks Salty Jay, and then Michel & Rachel!), they push up a tough climb during the afternoon, seeking shade where they can whilst avoiding the ants' nests. As ever they are rewarded with a stunning sunset beyond majestic views. Episode 33 of Trail & Errors :)
Continuing to descend, EthaMol reach an enforced detour around a closed 3 mile section of the PCT; a somewhat frustrating road walk downhill followed by a steep return uphill sees 3 extra miles added to their PCT miles; this ends up being their longest day yet. They struggle with correctly navigating the closure, are disappointed with unreliable water sources, and miss-out on some trail magic. However the beauty of their surroundings wins them over, and they find a fabulous place to camp, out of the wind, with spectacular views (as seems normal!). Episode 32 of Trail & Errors :)
A pre-dawn start from their first 'cowboy camp' sees the team begin their ascent of Mount Baden Powell. With the highway closed from Vincent Gap many choose to walk around the mountain, but a few hardy souls take on the climb. The switchbacks start immediately up the north side of the mountain, and disappear under the snow halfway up, eventually forcing Molly & Ethan to take the direct line straight up. The summit is worth the effort, with magnificent views stretching across this part of the country. They pick their way along the knife-edge descent, linking up with a couple of friends on the way, and make more miles than they'd thought before camping near Little Jimmy Springs. That should be the end of the snow until the Sierras... Episode 31 of Trail & Errors :)
What a friendly town Wrightwood is. Although not as well provisioned as Big Bear Lake it's their favourite stop so far; join the guys as they eat heartily at the Evergreen Cafe (twice!) and bump into some old trail friends - welcome back Panda and Jungle Law! They don't even need to hitch, as a friendly local waits for them to finish their business to then drive them out of his way back to the trail. Molly reflects on this generosity and decides to adopt Steve's approach to the value of the gift of time. They hike the PCT for 5 miles or so to Vincent's Gap, where it crosses the (at this point closed) highway. Joining the other hikers preparing for an early morning ascent of the potentially treacherous Mt Baden Powell, they 'Cowboy Camp' for the first time... Be part of their adventure in Episode 30 of Trail & Errors :)
In this double episode the guys carry on ascending towards Wright Mountain past patches of Poodle-Dog bush. They switch back and forth over the ridge before finding a sublime campsite with views out towards Los Angeles. They're joined by Jukebox and others that night, and the next morning hit the snow again on the north side of the ridge above Wrightwood with several areas requiring micro spikes. They pass ski lifts and reach the highway where Rueben kindly offers them a lift into town and gives them a tour of Wrightwood. This incredibly friendly town has all the amenities they need, and after a great mexican dinner they retire to an AirBnB they're sharing with Prometheus, Not-a-Minor, Fake News, Jukebox, and several others. Hear about their journey in Episode 29 of Trail & Errors.
EthaMol leave Silverwood Lake and head back into the hills. Looking for water sources along the way, they enjoy the vistas and crest the ridge overlooking the busy freeway and civilisation, including the famous McDonald's! Feeling guilty about their appearance and odour, the guys eat a tonne of junk food before heading back through the spooky tunnels under the Interstate and up into the hills towards their next stop in a couple of days time at Wrightwood. Hear about their journey in Episode 28 of Trail & Errors.
Up up up and out of the valleys, Molly & Ethan pass dams and spillways and have breakfast the other side of the Mojave river. It is another ridge line day with the flat lands around the dam to their right and the slopes of the ranges to their left. They could see the San Gabriel Mountains ahead, where Mount Baden-Powell awaits. After a hot hot morning they cross to the other side of the ridge with beautiful views of Silverwood Lake. Making good progress, they enjoy the beautiful views and are keen to reach the Cleghorn camp site where delivery pizza can be ordered! On arrival they that a massive group of hikers had gathered around a pile of pizza with enough for everyone. Beers, pizza, and toilets = bliss. Episode 27 of Trail & Errors.
A slow start sees the team move from the shady river-side to the exposed shrublands. As the heat builds they welcome the sound of water, but the canyon they join is too deep to access the torrent below. Passing the 300 mile mark water access is in sight, but Ethan is halted in his tracks by a stubborn rattlesnake which refused to move. Overcoming the serpent they enjoy a dip in the river at lunchtime, before moving on to Deep Creek Springs; where they close their eyes (& minds) to the naked happenings to enjoy the pools, before pressing on to a more refined camp-site. Hear all about it in Episode 26 of Trail & Errors :)
With fantastic views back across Big Bear Lake to the mountains beyond, Molly & Ethan have a great day's hiking along the ridge past Holcombe Creek. They take a dip to cool off, and end the day camping with their new trail friends. Episode 25 of Trail & Errors :)
After a day in Big Bear Lake team EthaMol are keen to get back on the trail. Waylaid by the prospect of lunch in town they don't get away until the afternoon, but after a quick ride back to the trail they start to make good ground over easier terrain. With their new supply strategy in force life is a bit easier! Enjoy Episode 24 of Trail & Errors :)
The guys spend the day at Big Bear Lake resupplying and reloading calories! The decide to take a 'zero' day and spend the night .as the weather forecast for their afternoon departure is rain/snow. Find out what it's like for hikers on a 'town' day in Episode 23 of Trail & Errors.
After a cold start Molly & Ethan get spurred on by the thought of a town stop at Big Bear Lake. A short 10 mile hike and a quick hitch sees them enjoying some creature comforts at last. Episode 22 of Trail & Errors :)
Molly & Ethan wake early in the dark and head into the slopes as the sun begins to rise. Pine forests dominate the day offering much needed shade to recover from the day before. The air is scented with pine, and glimpses of snow covered peaks foretell the landscape to come. After a lunch break at mile 250 they push on past a defunct private zoo and although not feeling well fed the day is a great one in comparison to the struggle yesterday. Episode 21 of Trail & Errors.
Molly & Ethan spend the day criss-crossing the Mission Creek river trying to find the washed out trail. They struggle with the physical toll and the heat, and realise that they'll need to rethink their food strategy as they run low on supplies. The effort to hike the PCT is real; hear about it all in Episode 20 of Trail & Errors.
Molly & Ethan cross the desert floor and find some trail magic and company hiding under Interstate 10. They begin the long hot ascent through giant wind farms and dried out river beds towards the San Gorgonio wilderness. They relish in some air conditioned comfort, Molly enjoys her first Klondike bar, and they discover pound cake. Live the journey in Episode 19 of Trail & Errors.
Molly & Ethan wake up in the snow and move through Fuller Ridge towards the climb down to the valley floor, meeting Cardinal along the way. The descent is long, with majestic views across Cabazon Gap to the route tomorrow. Hear about life on the trail and the changes back from snow to desert in Episode 18 of Trail & Errors.
Molly & Ethan spend most of the day heading uphill! Taking the Devil's Slide trial via Saddle Junction to San Jacinto peak, the route is slow going in the snow. Hear about the sketchy conditions & the spectacular views, join the team on the summit, and laugh with them on the slippery descent. A long day on the PCT in Trail & Errors episode 17.
Plenty of laughs in today's episode, as Molly & Ethan take a 'zero' in the lovely town of Idyllwild. They join their friends for a hearty breakfast, resupply with some interesting types of beef jerky, arrange a meeting with the mayor, and end the day with a breakdown of their resupply strategy for the next stretch of the trail. From Day 14, it's Episode 16 of Trail & Errors :)
A stunning sunrise greets the team this morning, and with an early start they begin to hit the snow and the tricky section at Apache Peak. They don their micro spikes for the first time, avoid falling off the icy trail, slog up a killer hill, trudge through a 4 mile stretch of snowfields, head down Devil's Slide Trail, and finish the day in comfort at the Idyllwild Inn.
After an oddly comfortable night on the porch of the Paradise Valley Cafe, a hearty breakfast fuelled the team up the long and hot ascent towards Mt San Jacinto. The miles came slow, but with everyone struggling morale was boosted knowing that they weren't alone. Palm Springs glinted to the east, and the remnants of recent fires was evident along the trail. A spectacular campsite with an incredible sunset made the effort worthwhile. Check out trailanderrors on Instagram for a first hand account, and listen here to episode 14 of this amazing journey. Ed. :)
The guys dream of burgers as they make their way uphill towards the Paradise Valley Cafe. Hot and dry, the trail meanders through some beautiful scenery; Ethan forgets his gloves but gains a trail name, and an impromptu slumber party is held on a roadside porch. Episode 13 of Trail & Errors :)
Team EthaMol move through the misty landscape amongst giant boulders, suffering their first on-trail injury. Ethan reflects on the nature of his journey, the difficulties both mental and physical. The guys are joined in camp by new friends, they learn how Stark Naked got her name, and are enlightened as to the many varieties of sugared confectionery available in the USA; and does Molly receive the first hint of a forthcoming trail name? It's all here in Episode 12 of Trail & Errors :)
This podcast sees the guys move past mile marker 100 and the famous Eagle Rock, and through the friendly community of Warner Springs. Experience the change in scenery from relentless mountain switchbacks to high fertile pastures with abundant wildflowers, from the necessities of a town resupply to the peace of a woodland campsite next a bubbling brook. Meet the characters and be part of the journey in Episode 11 of Trail & Errors.
The switchbacks up the San Felipe hills are never-ending; Molly & Ethan work their way up the ridge avoiding snakes and grabbing water when they can. They are joined by Panda and Andre for lunch, and look forward to a bucket shower in Warner Springs tomorrow. The afternoon brings relief in a change of scenery to high meadows and flowers, and Molly reveals her knowledge of american history via the medium of musicals (Hamilton).
Travel with the team to the town of Julian and hear from some of the interesting characters they're meeting on the trail. A hair-raising first hitchhike out to town for food and a resupply, and a slightly more refined journey back, before hitting the switchbacks up the San Felipe hills in the desert heat. You'll hear about Pickup Trucks, Apple Pie, Cider, the Mayan Language; String Theory gets a mention; plus Molly gives someone a trail name, all in episode 9 of Trail & Errors.
A 16 mile trek along the ridgeline towards Scissors Crossing; hot and hilly with outstanding views, and their first Trail Magic! They also answer a few listener questions, and discuss their favourite topic - food :)
Leaving Mt Laguna through beautiful pine forests, Molly & Ethan remember not to listen to unverified rumours (02.30), wonder at the amazing views (03.45), ponder trail name protocols (06.15), find a good lunch spot (08.30), reflect on the distances they will be walking (09.309), receive their first Trail Magic from former PCTer 'Spikes' (10.20) who offers some sage advice and wisdom about the trail (12.30) and micro-spikes (14.00). They get their first glimpse of Mt Jacinto in the distance (15.00), reflect on the day's hike (18.45), before ending the day as usual discussing food (23.15)! Enjoy :)
Enjoy the sounds of the trail as the guys head to Mt Laguna; they discuss some aspects of US culture (04.07), describe some of the characters they've met on the trail (06.30), encounter another snake (09.10), give a description of their lunch (09.57), explain how their water filtration systems work (11.00), have a chat with some of their current trail family (13.05), enter a beautiful pine forest (16.39), and end up in the Pine House Cafe for some well earned burgers (19.17).
After a steep climb out of Hauser Creek Molly & Ethan visit the Malt Shop in Lake Morena (07.50); have a chat with Irish (09.05); get recognised on the trail (11.55); have a lovely encounter with Duke & Cheyenne (12.25); rethink their eating strategy (17.45); find a lovely camping spot (19.45); and give feedback thus far on their gear decisions (21.15).
Molly & Ethan move from San Diego to Campo and the Mexican border, where they begin their trek. The Americans struggle with 'Wrigglesworth' (01.00); Border Wall (02.10); First Steps (03.15); Noobs with poles (05.20); Argument about which state calls their residents Hoosiers (it's Indiana... 21.15); Hiker Food (21.50); Arrival Hauser Creek (32.25).
Last episode before Ethan and Molly start their walk...
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The Editor
Welcome to CA (02.19); Bedding/Sleeping (09.00); Tent (11.32); Footwear (13.50); Hydration (19.48); Kitchen (23.49); Electronics (26.34); Toiletries (31.04); Clothes (34.35); Miscellaneous/Rucksacks (41.18)
As D-Day draws closer, we breakdown the following Trail Lingo: Thru-Hiker (01:11); Section Hiker (02:15); Day Hiker (03:26); Ultra-Light (04:10); NOBO/SOBO (04:55); Flip Flop (05:55); Post Holing (06:50); Glissade (08:09); Cowboy Camp (08:48); Hiker's Midnight (09:35); Zero (10:34); Nero (11:15); A Bubble/ The Bubble (11:55); Hiker Hunger (13:25); Hiker Trash (14:54); Trail Angel (15:30); Trail Magic (16:55); PUD (17:55); HOYOH (18:48); LNT (20:00).
For the first full episode of the Trail and Errors podcast, we asked you to send us questions that you wanted us to answer before we head off on 27th March. We received a total of 40 questions, but answered them all in the ones detailed below. If you have any further Q's, email pct@trialanderrors.com, or contact us via FaceBook or Instagram - @trailanderrors.
05:00 - What do you anticipate being the most challenging aspect of the trail?
07:45 - Why does this appeal to you both?
10:09 - What will be the most annoying thing about each other on the trial?
13:48 - How many hours a day will you do?
14:55 - Do you plan on camping every night, or will you be booking into motels on occasion?
16:07 - What are your main bits of kit?
21:30 - Do you have a target for the first few days?
23:15 - Is there a governmental authority or other organisation that runs or looks after the trail? If so, is there any documentation you need before you start?
26:58 - Will you be taking a spare pair of boots and what blister remedies are you taking?
29:57 - How much water will you be carrying, especially in the desert?
30:52 - Which part of the trail are you most looking forward to?
31:40 - How much long-distance hiking have you done in the past?
34:20 - WTF?/Why are you doing this?
35:27 - Can you give a general plan of dates and location, and the change in terrain along the way?
39:40 - Have you had to have any jabs?
39:50 - Are you still going dressed as Smurfs?
40:17 - What safety-nets do you have in place, if any?
40:56 - Do you have any personal goals within yourself that you want to realise/accomplish?
41:38 - What is the weather going to be like?
41:58 - Have you decided your joint name?
42:35 - What do you think you'll miss the most?
43:10 - What animals are you likely to see?
43:40 - What is the reason behind the name Trial and Errors?
44:10 - What are you taking as your luxury item?
45:24 - Based on your recent Dartmoor trip, what do you know now to do, or not to do, on the PCT?
47:07 - How long will the hike take?
47:30 - How much food will you start with?
48:10 - Are you going to film it?
48:27 - Are you dreading/excited about any particular part?
49:49 - Where will you aim to resupply first?
50:59 - What are the average distance between outposts, and which is the longest?
52:14 - What are your specific worries, beyond tiredness and heat?