The Milanophiles: Recent Episodes
Jaclyn
The Milanophiles champions the food, wine, beverage, and lifestyle culture of Milan - home to Italy's most electric food scene. Host Jaclyn DeGiorgio is a food, wine, and travel writer who's watched the city's food scene evolve since 2014. The fiercest champion for her adopted city and its surroundings you'll ever meet, Jaclyn celebrates Milan's overlooked, though no less noteworthy, role in Italian food culture.
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As the holiday season is still underway in Italy, host Jaclyn DeGiorgio, a Milan-based food tour guide and food writer, thought she'd keep with the seasonal theme and release an episode from season one that delves into some panettone-related legal shenanigans.
Pertinent episode notes below:
Panettone features prominently in the media every holiday season, but this year Milan's signature leavened delight garnered some aberrant attention, which food writer Jaclyn DeGiorgio discusses in the episode. Warning: she's rather upset by some of the shady practices!
Here are links to the sources cited and/or consulted for the episode.
- US Department of Justice press release regarding seafood in North Carolina
- Jaclyn's panettone in Milan post on A Signorina in Milan (her blog)
- Panettoni industriali spacciati per artigianali: la truffa in quasi 300 pasticcerie, Luca Venturino, Dissapore
- Taranto, nasconde dosi di cocaina nel panettone ma i carabinieri scoprono tutto: un arresto by Raffaella Capriglia, La Repubblica
- Panettoni industriali rivenduti come artigianali a prezzi quintuplicati, denunce e sequestri del Nas in tutta Italia by Alessio Ribaudo, Corriere della Sera
- Panettoni industriali venduti come artigianali, a Genova scattano i controlli dei carabinieri del Nas by Marco Fagandini, Il Secolo XiX
- Panettoni artigianali... ma per finta. Una pratica diffusa in tutta Italia scoperta dai Nas by Riccardo Cristilli, La Gazzetta dello Sport
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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Milan-based food writer and food tour guide Jaclyn DeGiorgio veers off course from food to discuss a shake-up at her beloved AC Milan.
Sources consulted for the mini-episode:
- Sempre Milan
- La Gazzetta dello Sport
- Corriere dello Sport
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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In honor of the Christmas season, Milan-based food writer and food tour guide Jaclyn DeGiorgio has decided to rerelease her panettone-themed episode from two years ago (season 1, episode 2), which includes an interview with Nicola Olivieri of Olivieri 1882. Show notes below.
If you’ve sworn off panettone because you think it’s dry, bland, cottony, and uninspired, then you haven’t tasted good panettone, true panettone–you most likely have only had the preservative-packed industrial versions. Indeed, these sub-par iterations give Milan’s emblematic leavened treat a bad rap abroad, but good panettone has the power to convert even the most seemingly unwavering haters. In honor of Christmas, host Jaclyn DeGiorgio pays homage to the beloved and misunderstood sweet bread. Nicola Olivieri, one of Italy’s finest bakers, weighs in.
Sources for the episode/items mentioned:
- Jaclyn’s blog post about artisan panettone in Milan.
- Nicola Olivieri of Olivieri 1882
- The Consorzio of Panettone's page about its origin legends and history
- Il panettone. Storia, leggende, segreti e fortune di un protagonista del Natale by Stanislao Porzio, published in 2007 --This is the book to read if you want to know more about panettone. I’ve learned tons from it over the years, and he even dives further into the origin tales.
- Cucina Milanese Contemporanea by Cesare Battisti and Gabriele Zanatta, published in 2020
- La Cucina Milanese by Fabiano Guatteri, published in 2004
Panettone competitions and events
- Panettone Day https://www.panettone-day.it/
- Re panettone https://repanettone.it/
- Panettone world championship https://www.panettoneworldchampionship.com/
- Panettone World Cup https://www.corman.pro/int/en/chefs/blog/the-panettone-world-cup-2022/
Where to find Olivieri 1882 panettone in the US:
- Zabar’s
- Eataly
- Giadzy (Giada De Laurentiis’s website)
Other:
- Motta and Alemagna are the two historic producers
- Giadia De Laurentiis recipe for panettone sformato
- Chef Lorenzo Cogo bio
- A look at cinepanettone
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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Milan-based food tour guide and food and travel writer Jaclyn DeGiorgio discusses a Milanese Christmas party staple: panettone gastronomico, a savory take on the beloved Christmas sweet.
Pertinent links:
- Jaclyn's blog post about panettone gastronomico
- Jaclyn's Instagram feed
- The Milano Files Instagram
- The Milano Files YouTube Channel
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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In honor of Christmas looming just around the corner, Milan-based food writer and food tour guide Jaclyn DeGiorgio discusses an unlikely Milanese Christmas table staple: aspic and gelatins. Though Milana is a city at the forefront of fashion and design (and even food!), these old-school preparations have always been in vogue.
For this episode, Jaclyn's sources are an article she wrote for U.S.A. Today last year on the topic as well as a post from her blog.
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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For today's Milano Minute, food writer and food tour guide Jaclyn DeGiorgio discusses a new law going into effect on January 1, 2025 that means bad news for smokers.
Episode source:
- La Repubblica
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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In honor of the wintry weather, Jaclyn DeGiorgio, a food tour guide based in Milan, has decided to re-release the season one episode about the Barbajada, a coffee and hot chocolate drink created in Milan that has De.Co. status.
Here's a link to the original episode, where you can find all the sources cited and whatnot in the show notes.
For the accompanying video, Jaclyn is especially thankful to Pavé, in particular Nadia, for letting her take a video of the preparation.
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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Jaclyn dishes on a dish she had at Stadera Gastronomia Contemporanea, chef Aldo Ritrovato's part-gastronomia, part-restaurant in the Crocetta neighborhood. The pasta, patate e provola is ever so cozy and satiating during the cold weather months.
Stadera's Instagram
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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In honor of the holiday season (and Milan's beloved leavened treat!), Jaclyn discusses a quirky Italian holiday film form: Cinepanettone. These offbeat comedies date back to the 1980s.
Sources used for the episode:
- Sky News round-up of the best cinepanettone films to watch
- Il Foglio - Aridatece il cinepanettone
- NPC Magazine - The True Story of Cinepanettone - the Italian comfort movie
- I Sorrisi's round-up of the best Christian De Sica cinepanettone movies
- A History of Italian Cinema by Peter Bondanella and Federico Pacchioni
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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Milan-based food tour guide and food and travel writer Jaclyn DeGiorgio shares a lovely shop for your holiday paper goods, but not only at Corso Lodi 74 owned by Silvia Mangano. Contact info below.
+39 3386216968
www.calambour.com
info@calambour.com
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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On today's episode of the Milano Files, Milan-based food writer and food tour guide Jaclyn DeGiorgio continues her conversation with Edoardo Nono, the owner of Rita, an epic cocktail bar in Milan's Navigli district. Follow Rita on Instagram here.
Relevant links:
- Il Pirla cocktail realized for the 100th anniversary of Camparino in Galleria
- "Pirlare su se stesso," which means "rotating/turning on himself," is the phrase that inspired the Il Pirla cocktail
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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On today's episode of the Milano Files, Milan-based food writer and food tour guide Jaclyn DeGiorgio continues her conversation with Edoardo Nono, the owner of Rita, an epic cocktail bar in Milan's Navigli district, and its sister establishment Rita's Tiki Room. Follow Rita on Instagram here and Rita's Tiki Room here.
- "Ofelè fa el to mesté" is Milanese dialect for "pastry chef (or cookie maker) do your job" - more about the phrase here
- Offelle are a type of cookie typical of the Pavia region in south Lombardy
- Daniele Dalla Pola was the owner of Nu Lounge in Bologna and Esotico Miami, which is now closed
- The cocktail he describes at Rita's Tiki Bar is Jasper Jamaican
- The hand gestures we're discussing are the finger purse and the wagging prayer clasp.
- Panino Giusto is the name of the paninoteca group that Edoardo has created cocktails for.
- Edoardo's Liquor is a ginger falernum called Mr. Three & Bros.
Edoardo's picks for what to do in Milan"
- The Leonardo da Vinci at the Sforza Castle is called La Sala delle Asse, but at the moment, it's closed for restoration.
- Palazzo Reale
- Fondazione Prada
Restaurants:
- Carico
- Trattoria Mirta
- Nebbia
- Erba Brusca
Cover photo: Jasper Jamaican cocktail from Rita's Tiki Room, photo: Gaia Menchicchi
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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Host Jaclyn DeGiorgio, a Milan-based food writer and food tour guide, veers fuori strada (off course) from her usual food coverage to talk about what's arguably the most in-vogue sport in Italy right now: tennis!
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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On today's episode of the Milano Files, Milan-based food writer and food tour guide Jaclyn DeGiorgio speaks with Edoardo Nono, the owner of Rita, an epic cocktail bar in Milan's Navigli district. Follow Rita on Instagram here.
- Chiara Berreta is the woman bartender he mentions
- The Gin Zen is the cocktail in the recipe art, photo: Gaia Menchicchi
- Dale DeGroff, who was bartending at the Waldorf Astoria, is nicknamed the Cocktail King.
- Jerry Thomas book
- David Embury's book
- The London bartender he's referring to is Tony Conigliaro.
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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On today's episode of the Milano Files, Milan-based food writer and food tour guide Jaclyn DeGiorgio speaks with Edoardo Nono, the owner of Rita, an epic cocktail bar in Milan's Navigli district. Follow Rita on Instagram here.
Links:
- American Bar: The Artistry of Mixing Drinks by German bartender Charles Schumann is the book that inspired Edoardo:
- Schumann's American Bar is his bar in Munich.
- Riva website
- Wikipedia page for Gilda nightclub in Rome, which closed in 2017.
Navigli restaurants mentioned:
- Al Pont de Ferr (now closed)
- Taglio (now closed)
- Rebelot (now closed)
- Osteria di Porta Cicca (now closed, Michelin-starred chef Claudio Sadler's former restaurant)
- Trattoria Ponte Rosso (still open)
- Vinoir (the newer place)
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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Jaclyn DeGiorgio is a food tour guide and food and travel writer based in Milan. For this week's Milano Minute mini-episode, Jaclyn discusses La Siciliana dal 1956, a beloved historic pastry shop in Milan's Lambrate neighborhood.
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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The aperitivo is one of Italy's most romanticized traditions, and Milan-based drinks writer and journalist Carlo Carnevale joins Jaclyn DeGiorgio to delve below the surface and discuss its history and significance, with a focus on its role in Milanese social culture. This is part two of two episodes. Follow Carlo's adventures fueled by cleverly crafted cocktails and then some on Instagram.
Relevant links
- Amaro Ramazzoti is the brand with the Milano da Bere slogan
- The Taac video that Jaclyn mentions
- The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks by David Embury
- The actor Carlo refers to is Emma D'Arcy from Game of Thrones: House of the Dragon, and here's a clip of the interview.
Aperitivo cocktails mentioned:
- Milano Torino
- The Americano
- Negroni (created by Fosco Scarselli)
- The Boulevardier
- Negroni Sbagliato
Carlo's Milan drink picks:
- Negroni at Camparino
- Bloody Mary at Lacerba
- Americano at Rita's Tiki Room
- Negroni Sbagliato at Bar Basso
- Absinthe martini and oyster martini at Norah Was Drunk
xxx
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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In this mini-episode, Jaclyn DeGiorgio, a Milan-based food tour guide and food and travel writer, discusses one of her Milan obsessions: the tarot-themed chocolate bars at Zàini Milano inspired by the Visconti-Sforza tarot.
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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The aperitivo is one of Italy's most romanticized traditions, and Milan-based drinks writer and journalist Carlo Carnevale joins Jaclyn DeGiorgio to delve below the surface and discuss its history and significance, with a focus on its role in Milanese social culture. This is part one of two episodes. Follow his adventures fueled with cleverly crafted cocktails and then some on Instagram.
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
Click here to sign up for Jaclyn's newsletter.
Show notes:
- Merenda sinoira is the Piedmontese term mentioned meaning "snack before dinner"
- Carpano Classico, the original vermouth
- Vermouth di Torino PGI regulations
- Vinicio Valdo is the man who pioneered the Happy Hour-style aperitivo in Milan. His bar was called Roialto, and you can read a recent interview with him here. It's in Italian, but we live in the age of AI. :)
- The Botanical Club in Isola opened in 2015 but is no longer open.
- Rita in the Navigli is the 20-year-old cocktail bar in Milan that Carlo mentions -- it's excellent!
- The Milano Files season 1 episode 7 discusses natural wine in Milan, and you might want to give that a listen as well as there is some overlap with certain facets of Milan's contemporary beverage culture.
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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In this mini-episode, Jaclyn DeGiorgio, a Milan-based food tour guide and food and travel writer, discusses the 2024 Italian Michelin guide and recaps the new starred restaurants in Milan and Lombardia.
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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Episode art: The spring onion spaghetti at Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Milan. Photo by Brambilla Serani
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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Milan-based Jaclyn DeGiorgio, a food tour guide and food writer, discusses a telltale sign of autumn in Milan: pan dei morti (bread of the dead), a baked sweat prepared in honor of All Soul's Day (November 2nd).
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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Relevant Links
Jaclyn's blog post about where to find pan dei morti in Milan
Pan dei Morti Recipe from Cucchio d'Argento (It's in Italian, but I know it's reliable because it's a solid brand.)
Cook Corriere pan dei morti story
Monza Today pan dei morti story
Switzerland Patrimoine Culinaire
Quotidiano Nazionale All Souls Day story
Punti d'Incontro Pan dei Morti story
Ossa dei Morti recipe
Giallo Zafferano Fave dei Morti recipe
xxx
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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Jaclyn DeGiorgio is a food writer and food tour guide based in Milan. Here she shares an overview of Milan's dining scene, focusing on what's new since she wrapped the first season of The Milano Files.
If you're heading to town and you'd like to book a food tour with her, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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New trattorias/bistrots:
Trattoria Sincera
Via Stampa
Trattoria della Gloria
New "new Italian":
Ai Fiori Blu
Cucina Franca
Fine dining:Verso
Autem
Countertop dining/trattoria dining:
Silvano Vino e Cibo al Banco
Rosticceria Palazzi
CreDa
Razdora
Revamped restaurants:
Contraste
Iyo
Manna
Shiro
A first for Milan:
Latteria Soresina
New pizzeria:
Confine
Via Melzo/Viviana VaresePolpo
Faak
Passalacqua
Certosa district:
Lafa
June Collective
Sidewalk Kitchens:Totost
New openings from chefs who worked with three-star chefs:RAW
Procaccini
Fourghetti
New wine bars of note:
Fat Sam at the Winery
Bicchierino Bar
Bar Paradiso
NON La Solita Vineria
Minerale
Remedy
Broadwine
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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Jaclyn DeGiorgio kicks off season two of The Milano Files by coming full circle from where she ended season one: with her thoughts on Milan Design Week, which took place last spring.
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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Relevant episode links:
Salone del Mobile
Salone del Mobile recap
Porta Venezia Design District
Marimmeko/Bar Stoppani
Porsche Art of Dreams
B&B Italia Narinari Chair
Fabscarte Enigmatic Garden
Nemo Lighting
Nemo LBB01 Light
Nemo Lorosae
Nemo Portofino Light
Palazzo Litta
Trattoria alla Vista
Pietrachiara folding screen
Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia - Michelin-starred restaurant whose chefs cooked for Trattoria alla Vista
xxx
If you're visiting Milan and would like to book a food tour with Jaclyn when you're in town, send her an email: jaclyndegiorgiofoodtours@gmail.com
Jaclyn's blog: A Signorina in Milan
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Jaclyn DeGiorgio shares a clip from her interview with food journalist Roberta Abate that didn't make the cut for the final interview.
Dongiò
Wineries mentioned:
- L'Acino
- A Vita
Jaclyn's Porta Romana dining guide
If you haven't listened to Pizza Culture with Simone and Lombardi and Giovanni Mineo of Crosta part 1, please go back and do so before tuning into this one. (It's episode number 14, and it was released on March 31. Here's the link. )
We continue chatting about Milan's pizza culture and in doing so, we dispel a couple of Italy food myths that circulate like wildfire on the social networks.
Here are some pertinent links for the episode:
- Crosta's website
- Crosta's Instagram
- Simone's Instagram
- Giovanni's Instagram
- Jaclyn's Instagram
- Jaclyn's blog
- Jalcyn's article for La Cucina Italiana about Simone's pizza
Jaclyn speaks with Caterina Monda, co-founder of Metis PR, a Milan-based PR firm representing clients in the design industry. They chat about the meaning of "Made in Italy", what to expect during Design Week, and the allure of their adopted city.
People, places, and things mentioned in the episode
- Triennale Milano (the design museum where Caterina worked
- Fonderia Battaglia works with designers like Osanna Visconti and Giuseppe Penone
- Bitossi Home (the blue and white plate mentioned is the Arcane design)
- Venini - Murano glassmakers that just published the Artisan book
Design Week
- Rossana Orlandi Gallery
- Niloufar Gallery
- David and Nicolas
- Gio Ponti (EPIC Italian architect and designer)
- Bitossi Home and Pangea
- Bitossi Ceramic and Robert Stadler
- Ron Gilad collaboration with Nemo Lighting Via Borgunovo 19
- Martyn Thompson (Australian Designer)
- Fabscarte
- David Dolcino
Caterina's required design reading
- Wallpaper
- T (The New York Times Style Magazine)
- Monocle
- Site Unseen
Caterina's Milano 5 (plus 2)
- Villa Necchi Campiglio
- Ambrosiana (The Codex Atlanticus is the Leonardo da Vinci on display)
- Atempo bistrot
- Momo Milano
- Osteria del Verme
- Art Noble Gallery
- Tommaso Calabro
Design Week resources
- Dezeen: 2022 Milan Design Week
- Elite Daily: 2019 Design Week recap
- Where Milan Design Week 2023
- Salone del Mobile official site
Marcello Rapisardi of Pasticceria e Dessert in Milan joins Jaclyn for a bonus episode to discuss Italian Easter sweets.
Relevant links:
- Colomba History and Origins (it's in Italian so you might have to run it through a translator)
- Pastiera Wikipedia page
- Uovo di Pasqua
- Pasticceria e Dessert Instagram - I encourage you to check this out to see Marcello's beautiful versions of the Easter sweets
- Marcello Rapisardi Instagram
- Jaclyn's blog post about where to drink the Barbajada in Milan
Episode artwork photo: Colomba from Pasticceria e Dessert
Today Jaclyn speaks with pastry chef Marcello RapisardiPasticerria e Dessert, a whimsical pastry shop in Milan where the offerings include a mind-blowing carbonara praline and other unexpected sweets nestled alongside the classics. We speak about his time working for chefs like Heston Blumenthal and Moreno Cedroni, his philosophy, his approach to pastry, and more.
Links to anything referenced in the show:
- Pasticceria e Dessert
- Marcello's Instagram
- Pasticceria e Dessert's Instagram
- The Fat Duck
- Madonnina del Pescatore
- Angel León is the Spanish chef who studies plankton and makes it in a lab
Jaclyn DeGiorgio speaks with pizza and bread extraordinaires Simone Lombardi and Giovanni Mineo of Crosta, one of Milan's best pizzerias and bakeries. Here's part 1 of their conversation. They discuss whether or not there's a Milanese pizza, the history of pizza, Crosta itself, and more. Spoiler alert: In part two (coming next week), we dispel two myths about Italy.
Crosta opened in 2018 and in 2020, they opened Crosta Lab where they sell Pizza al Portafoglio (wallet pizza), a street food, from a window that opens onto the street.
Jaclyn's article for USA Today about Milan's pizza scene.
Crosta's Instagram
Episode artwork photo credit: Crosta
As cardoon season is winding down, Jaclyn discusses the elusive artichoke thistle and also shares some versions she had in Milan recently.
- Il Giornale del Cibo article about why the cardo Gobbo is named as such
- Slow Food Foundation's page dedicated to the Cardo Gobbo di Nizza Monferrato
- Nizza Monferrato Wikipedia page
- Jaclyn's blog post about Via Melzo in Milan
- Masterclass guide to cooking cardoons
- Further reading: Smithsonian Magazine "What the Heck do I do with a Cardoon?"
Milan restaurants mentioned:
- Ratanà
- Røst
- Rovello 18
Jaclyn discusses a must-eat when visiting Milan: mondeghili (Milanese meatballs).
Sources used for the episode:
- Contemporary Milanese Cooking by Cesare Battisti and Gabriele Zannata
- Divinia.com
- Cucina Regionale Italiana
- Wikipedia
Restaurants to try them
- Ratanà
- Røst
- Frangente
- Trattoria del Nuovo Macello
- Risoelatte
- Peck
- Antica Trattoria della Pesa
- Al Garghet
The recipe for chef Cesare Battisti's mondeghili at Ratana from Sfiosizo.it
This week Jaclyn DeGiorgio follows-up on last week's episode with a brief update Starbucks' new Oleato line.
Jaclyn DeGiorgio discusses Starbucks in Italy, her fondness for the coffee titan, and her thoughts on the new Oleato olive-oil range of beverages that debuted in Italy this week.
Sources for the episode:
- Reuters article on unemployment in Italy
- Euro News article on unemployment in Italy
- Macrotrends stats on Italy's unemployment rate
- WSJ article reporting on how the pandemic pushed women out of work in Italy
- La Repubblica's article reporting on how the pandemic pushed women out of work in Italy
- More from La Repubblica
- Macrotrents Starbucks revenue report
- Trading Economics report on Italy's unemployment rate
- Starbucks' new Oleato beverages
- The Ricky Gervais routine
The Sanremo Festival came and went, so Jaclyn has decided to dedicate this brief episode of The Milanophiles to her thoughts on the occasion, which plays an integral part in Italy’s contemporary lifestyle culture.
Sanremo Official website
Sanremo 2023 Wikipedia
Chiara Ferragni instagram
Episode photo by Bogomil Mihaylov on Unsplash
For this episode of The Milanophiles, Jaclyn DeGiorgio veers fuori strada, or off course, to discuss one of her favorite annual occasions: the Sanremo Italian Song Festival, whose 73rd edition takes place from February 7 - 11, 2023.
Jaclyn's blog, A Signorina in Milan, and Instagram handle @jaclyndegiorgio
- Official Sanremo website
- Why is the Sanremo Festival so important to Italians? from The Local
- The Sanremo Festival's Wikipedia page
- Sanremo Giovanni winners
- Song entries
- For all of the artists, I elaborated on, I got the details from their individual Wikipedia pages.
- Official Domenica In webiste
- Domenica in Wikipedia page
- Since I raved about Madame's song, Voce from Sanremo 2021, I thought I'd link to its Wikipedia page.
Episode photo by Bogomil Mihaylov on Unsplash
Pastamadre restaurant is a must-visit when you're in Milan. Today, Jaclyn speaks to chef Francesco Costanzo about his beloved restaurant in the Porta Romana district.
The natural wines Francesco mentions:
- Tanca Nica, Pantelleria island
- Arianna Occhipinti, Vittoria (Sicily)
- La Stoppa, Emilia-Romagna
- Nino Barraco, Marsala
- Manfredi Franco, Marsala
What to see in Milan
- Architecture from the late 19th to early 20th century
- Leonardo da Vinci's The Last Supper
Francesco's restaurant recs:
- Erbabrusca
- Trippa
- Ratanà
- Da Martino
- Nebbia
Women chefs from his "Burrocracy" series co-founded with Aurora Zancanaro of Le Polveri bakery and Gianni Tratzi of Mezzatazza Coffee Consulting.
- Chiara Pavan, Venissa, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Venice
- Chiara Barla, Apotek57, Copenhagen
- Lucia Gaspari, former chef of Røst in Milan
- Sarah Cicolini, SantoPalato, Rome
Many people don't know that Milan has a prolific natural wine scene, one that's on par with its counterparts in big European cities like Paris, London, and Barcelona. She speaks with Alessandro Ambrosi, the owner of an enoteca called Vinello a Milano, which specializes in natural, biodynamic, and organic wines.
Here are links to the places, wines, etc., discussed:
- Jaclyn's blog post about natural wine in Milan
- Vinoir, owner is Gianluca Ladu
- Pastamadre, owner is Francesco Costanzo
- Enoteca Naturale
Six natural wine producers from Lombardia to keep an eye out for according to Alessandro:
- Barbacarlo in Oltrepò Pavese
- Fausto Andi in Oltrepò Pavese
- Gemma by Mirco Pauletti in Collina del Milanese San Colombano al Lambro
- Josef by Luca Francesconi in Garda Colli Mantovani (Hills of Lake Garda north of Mantua, close to the Veneto border)
- Barbacan in Valetellina (The link is to the winery's epic Instagram account!)
- Orto Tellinum in Valtelllina
Photo: Instagram, @vinelloamilano
Warning: as I mention in the beginning of the episode, there was a problem with my mic, so my voice sounds a bit faint at parts, but you can hear my guests perfectly: chef Cesare Battisti of the restaurant Ratanàand Gabriele Zanatta of Identità Golose.They co-wrote a beautiful book Cucina Milanese Contemporanea (Contemporary Milanese cooking) available in both Italian and English.
My blog post with the recipe for risotto with pumpkin and ‘ndujaGina Tringali of Casa Mia Tours provided me with the details about trippa alla romana.
Cesare’s picks for a great risotto alla milanese (besides Ratanà of course!)
- Rovello 18
- Trattoria Massueli San Marco
- Trattoria della Pesa
- Trattoria del Nuovo Macello
Gabriele’s picks for Chinese food
- Gong
- MU Dimsum
- Bon Wei
- Mao Hunan
Gabriele's picks for Japanese restaurants
- Iyo
- Casa Ramen
Gabriele's picks for pizza
- Crosta
- Berbere
- Denis Pizza di Montagna
Gabriele's picks for cocktail bars
- Rita
- Mag Cafe
- Ca.ri.co
- 1930
Museums suggested by Gabriele
- Fondazione Prada
- Triennale
Since it's winter, Jaclyn DeGiorgio discusses the Barbajada, the historic Milanese hot chocolate that's few and far between these days.
Sources
- Milano e I Secoli blog post
- Domenico Barbaja Wikipedia page
- Minerva A News
- Tasting the World
- Milano in Contemporanea
- Io Voce Narrante
Jaclyn's local coffee spot: Torrefazione Hodeidah
Jaclyn's blog post about where to the Barbajada in Milan
Panettone features prominently in the media every holiday season, but this year Milan's signature leavened delight garnered some aberrant attention, which food writer Jaclyn DeGiorgio discusses in the episode. Warning: she's rather upset by some of the shady practices!
Here are links to the sources cited and/or consulted for the episode.
- US Department of Justice press release regarding seafood in North Carolina
- Jaclyn's panettone in Milan post on A Signorina in Milan (her blog)
- Panettoni industriali spacciati per artigianali: la truffa in quasi 300 pasticcerie, Luca Venturino, Dissapore
- Taranto, nasconde dosi di cocaina nel panettone ma i carabinieri scoprono tutto: un arresto by Raffaella Capriglia, La Repubblica
- Panettoni industriali rivenduti come artigianali a prezzi quintuplicati, denunce e sequestri del Nas in tutta Italia by Alessio Ribaudo, Corriere della Sera
- Panettoni industriali venduti come artigianali, a Genova scattano i controlli dei carabinieri del Nas by Marco Fagandini, Il Secolo XiX
- Panettoni artigianali... ma per finta. Una pratica diffusa in tutta Italia scoperta dai Nas by Riccardo Cristilli, La Gazzetta dello Sport
Food writer Jaclyn DeGiorgio discusses some of her top dining experiences in Milan from the past year. Just to clarify, the list is by no means exhaustive as she set specific criteria for this episode: restaurants she either visited for the first time or those that she returned to after a significant amount of time elapsed between visits. Below are links to the restaurants she mentions in the article, and here's her blog post about Via Melzo, Milan's de facto "restaurant row."
Restaurants in Milan
- La Sala Bistrot
- Remulass (sister restaurant of Ratanà)
- Røst
- Osteria alla Concoreanza
- Trippa
- Pastamadre
- Insieme
- Altriementi
- Gerli dal 1870
- Il Giardino di Giada
- MU Fish
- Mezè
- Spore
- Bites
- Frangente
- Stadera
- Exit Pastiricio Ubrana
- Ciciarà
Outside Milan, but still in Lombardy
- Materia in Cernobbio (Lake Como)
- Trattoria San Biagio in Erba (Lake Como inland)
- Marco Polo 1960 in Ventimiglia, Liguria
Happy 2023 a tutti, and thank you all for listening....alla prossima!
If you’ve sworn off panettone because you think it’s dry, bland, cottony, and uninspired, then you haven’t tasted good panettone, true panettone–you most likely have only had the preservative-packed industrial versions. Indeed, these sub-par iterations give Milan’s emblematic leavened treat a bad rap abroad, but good panettone has the power to convert even the most seemingly unwavering haters. In honor of Christmas, host Jaclyn DeGiorgio pays homage to the beloved and misunderstood sweet bread. Nicola Olivieri, one of Italy’s finest bakers, weighs in.
Sources for the episode/items mentioned:
- Jaclyn’s blog post about artisan panettone in Milan.
- Nicola Olivieri of Olivieri 1882
- The Consorzio of Panettone's page about its origin legends and history
- Il panettone. Storia, leggende, segreti e fortune di un protagonista del Natale by Stanislao Porzio, published in 2007 --This is the book to read if you want to know more about panettone. I’ve learned tons from it over the years, and he even dives further into the origin tales.
- Cucina Milanese Contemporanea by Cesare Battisti and Gabriele Zanatta, published in 2020
- La Cucina Milanese by Fabiano Guatteri, published in 2004
Panettone competitions and events
- Panettone Day https://www.panettone-day.it/
- Re panettone https://repanettone.it/
- Panettone world championship https://www.panettoneworldchampionship.com/
- Panettone World Cup https://www.corman.pro/int/en/chefs/blog/the-panettone-world-cup-2022/
Where to find Olivieri 1882 panettone in the US:
- Zabar’s
- Eataly
- Giadzy (Giada De Laurentiis’s website)
Other:
- Motta and Alemagna are the two historic producers
- Giadia De Laurentiis recipe for panettone sformato
- Chef Lorenzo Cogo bio
- A look at cinepanettone
Jaclyn DeGiorgio chats with Roberta Abate, a food journalist who has presided over the city’s food scene for the last decade from a couple of prominent editorial positions: editor of FineDiningLovers.it and editor-in-chief of Munchies Italia. This interview was recorded during Roberta's time at the latter, a role she held for five years before stepping down in November.
They discuss what makes Milan and its food scene shine, local dining habits, the charm of the city’s ubiquitous courtyards, contemporary aperitivo culture, and how the food scene has evolved over the last decade, among other topics.
Establishments mentioned in the episode
Trippa
Pasta Madre
Nebbia
La Sala Bistrot
Spazio Niko Romito (restaurant with best Duomo view)
Ratanà
Da Martino
Ciciarà
The Unseen Bar (The first Vaporwave bar in Milan)
Tipografia Alimentare
Erba Brusca
Enoteca Naturale
Bentoteca
Røst
Dry
Additional links:
Robert’s Instagram: @rob_and_the_apocolypse
Roberta's Munchies story about the Unseen Bar
Jaclyn’s blog post about Via Melzo, Milan's de facto Restaurant Row
Jaclyn DeGiorgio champions the food, beverage, and lifestyle culture of Italy's most electric (and wrongfully overlooked!) city.