Advance Copy: Recent Episodes
Advance Copy
Welcome to Advance Copy a space for independent thinkers in fashion. Our guests are founders of courageous companies reimagining the future of fashion. Together, we’ll look deep inside and outside the industry for ways of growing fashion brands based on instinct and philosophy, in any corner of the world. Join us on advance-copy.com
Stephanie Oberg and Simon Homes are the life and work partners behind Sono: an independent luxury brand, established in 2004. Having worked at The Row and Lemaire, the couple decided to focus full-time on Sono during Covid. And it worked: things clicked. This is an account of what it takes to build a luxury company independently over more than twenty years, and reach creative freedom and commercial stability. In this episode, we talk about:
-
Longevity, limiting options, keeping investments low
-
Managing wholesale thoughtfully
-
Founder burnout
-
The two sides of social media
-
London studio and store
Welcome toAdvance Copy:
- Consulting Membership
- Book
- Substack
- Website
Post-production & editing: Mark Smith
Music & post-production: Emmanuel Corre
A two-part conversation with Natasha Mead, a New Zealand-based Art Director and Founder of 1of1 Studio. She is the mastermind behind some of today’s most referenced visual identities across independent fashion, lifestyle, skincare, interior and hospitality companies. Her collaborators and projects include: Lesse, Binu Binu, F. Miller, Reome, Baina, J. Hannah, Anyone Girl, Moon Lists.
In Part 1 of this conversation, we’ll learn about:
- The role of naivety and isolation on the development of Natasha’s studio
- Utilitarian and archival references inspiring her work
- Natasha’s approach to craft as a commitment to expressing care
- The 1of1 Studio client filter
Welcome toAdvance Copy:
- Consulting Membership
- Book
- Substack
- Website
Post-production & editing: Mark Smith
Music & post-production: Emmanuel Corre
Preview of Radical Refinement: a paid workshop on how to define a brand philosophy to see you through a turbulent market reality and beyond. Purchase the full workshop here.
DESIGNED FOR:
- Brand-owners & aspiring brand-owners
- Decision-makers in fashion & creative industries
- Branding, marketing and copywriting experts
TOPICS:
- Why it’s important to set a strong philosophy now
- Are your brand values genuine?
- Establishing what makes your work unique
- Translating your philosophy to sales, communication and visual strategies
Welcome toAdvance Copy:
- Consulting Membership
- Book
- Substack
- Website
Post-production & editing: Mark Smith
Music & post-production: Emmanuel Corre
An uncut workshop with the Los Angeles-based designer, Jess Hannah. Recorded in London in May 2024 and joined online by 10 diverse business owners, we discussed Jess's decade of learnings with her brand, J.Hannah, and reflected on mindful growth, de-growth, and “honest capitalism.”
Topics
- A decade of opportunities
- What lays beneath the numbers
- Non-linear financial reality
- Off-line marketing
- Wholesale post-Covid
- Profitability over growth
- "Honest capitalism"
Welcome toAdvance Copy:
- Consulting Membership
- Book
- Substack
- Website
- Newsletter
Post-production & editing: Mark Smith
Music & post-production: Emmanuel Corre
To mark 2024 Melbourne Design Week and the release of Advance Copy’s book, Growing Independent Fashion Brands, the iconic Australian fashion designer Lee Mathews and publisher and creative director Beth Wilkinson, gathered a small group of fashion industry insiders and admirers of the brand for an intimate conversation.
In this characteristically frank reflection, Lee delved into her founding principles, offshore production, the pricing conundrum and so much more. Take a moment to sit down and tune in to this much-needed personal account of an iconic independent brand owner. Enjoy!
Welcome toAdvance Copy:
- Consulting Membership
- Book
- Substack
- Website
- Newsletter
Post-production & editing: Mark Smith
Music & post-production: Emmanuel Corre
Carmen de Baets reflects on how she met her husband and business partner Joris ter Meulen Swijtink, establishing their guest house, shop and kitchen Carmen Amsterdam and the much respected visual signature of their company.
For more information onAdvance Copy's book, Growing Independent Fashion Brands, join our community:
- Book
- Website
- Newsletter
Podcast music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Casa Shop's Emi Moore and Jacqueline Davis, reflect on how their paths crossed, the company's trajectory since its establishment in 2016 and the origin of their distinct Instagram aesthetic. With a little help of a marine biologist, we’ll also talk about how the definition of “development” has been misunderstood and why “less is better” best symbolises Casa Shop’s idea of growth.
Guests
Emi Moore
Jacqueline Davis
Quote from "Ladders, trees, Complexity, and Other metaphors in Evolutionary Thinking" by Andreas Hejnol in Arts of Living on a Damaged Planet - Ghosts and Monsters of the Anthropocene, pp.G87–G102. Available to purchase here.
For more information onAdvance Copy's book, Growing Independent Fashion Brands, join our community:
- Website
- Newsletter
Podcast music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Family-run womenswear brand Muse demonstrates how ambition, conscious values and a personal touch can draw unexpected paths to building a fashion company. Founder, Christine Kourim is a natural self-starter and a life-long creator of fashion. When she attempted to sell her high-quality garments at a Melbourne market stall the success was immediate prompting Christine to enlist the help of her daughter, fashion designer, Sarah Kourim. Together they translated the label to a permanent home online and created a touchpoint for their growing community. In this episode, we're joined by Sarah to learn about her and her mother’s independent journeys, nurturing a market stall into a growing e-commerce business, and the under-representation of modest voices in fashion.
Guest: Sarah Kourim, Muse
Muse Journals with Rosie Fea
For more information onAdvance Copy's book, Growing Independent Fashion Brands, join our community:
- Website
- Newsletter
Podcast music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Baserange founders Marie-Louise Mogensen and Blandine Legait set out to provide women with underwear which didn’t dictate or restrict their bodies. Since 2012, this intention has set Baserange on an unprecedented trajectory, constantly pushing the fashion industry’s preconceptions to build one of the most authentic and courageous ready-to-wear brands.
In this two-part conversation Marie explains how Baserange aims to work in a way that resembles a healthy organism. As such it felt natural to also include the thoughts of one of the brand’s long-term collaborators, Tugba Mert Taskan, the Garment Facility Executive of the pioneering Turkish factory Mert Ipek. By intertwining these two conversations in one we hope to represent a more realistic picture of the many talented and caring individuals contributing to the development of Baserange.
Guests
Marie-Louise Mogensen, Baserange
Tugba Mert Taskan, Mert Ipek
Giovanna Flores
For more information onAdvance Copy's book, Growing Independent Fashion Brands, join our community:
- Website
- Newsletter
Podcast music & production: Emmanuel Corre
ArtEZ University teachers, Hanka van der Voet and Chet Bugter, discuss their recent open source paper: A Fruiting Body Of Collective Labour: Working Towards A De-Hierarchised System For Fashion Education. The document looks to the collaborative world of fungi and mycelium networks to find inspiration for de-hierarchised models of fashion education. We’ll learn how lichen networks influenced their approach to the management of the Critical Fashion Practices Master’s course and discuss how fashion designers, entrepreneurs and practitioners can encourage more collaborative ways of working.
- A Fruiting Body Of Collective Labour: Working Towards A De Hierarchized System For Fashion Education by Hanka van der Voet and Chet Bugter, Published by MA Critical Fashion Practices, ArtEZ University of the Arts Arnhem, 2022.
- Calling out Dutch Art Institutions
- Fantastic Fungi - documentary by Louie Schwartzberg and Mark Monroe available on Netflix
- The Mushroom at the End of the World: On the Possibility of Life in Capitalist Ruins by Anna Tsing
Guests
Hanka van der Voet and Chet Bugter, ArtEZ University of the Arts Arnhem
For more information onAdvance Copy's book, Growing Independent Fashion Brands, join our community:
- Website
- Newsletter
Podcast music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Palo Studios is a multi-division company comprising of a wholesale agency, a brand, and a creative production agency all under one ethically minded umbrella of its founder, Cassie Rose Ebner. Every collaborator of Palo Studios is driven by positivity and well-being thus creating a new template for working in fashion.
We talk to Cassie about the critical moment when the grasp of the classic wholesale model begun to loosen inspiring her to bridge the gap between conscious brands, retailers, and customers.
Guest: Cassie Rose Ebner, Palo Studios
For more information onAdvance Copy's book, Growing Independent Fashion Brands, join our community:
- Website
- Newsletter
Podcast music & production: Emmanuel Corre
St Rose founder, Belinda Smith, saw a space in the fragrance market for a conscious, luxurious and long-wearing fragrance brand rooted in the art of nature, and set out to steer the industry towards a transparent and gentler future. We speak to Belinda about the realities of crafting your own brand and why giving back and looking at things holistically is key to the sustainability conversation.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: Belinda Smith, St Rose
Interview Transcript: Advance Copy
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
Amrit Kumar and Mriga Kapadiya, co-founders of Delhi-based NorBlack NorWhite, discuss how India's rich textile heritage instantly caught their attention, why the trade show format didn’t work for their brand, and how they grew NorBlack NorWhite to being a cultural platform and creative studio.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: Mriga Kapadiya and Amrit Kumar, NorBlack NorWhite
Interview Transcript: Advance Copy
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
Strategic brand management consultant Thalia Tserevegou established TT CoLLECTIVE to share her holistic vision with a multitude of value-aligned fashion brands. She takes us through her learnings on how to build modern, conscious fashion companies in an ever-more turbulent market and shares with us the moment she decided to step back and pursue more balance and purpose.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: Thalia Tserevegou, TT CoLLECTIVE
References: Advance Copy Episode 6, How to Withdraw from Discounting Fashion
Interview Transcript: Advance Copy
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
Babaà is a family-owned knitwear brand. From organic cotton farmers in the south of Spain, the shepherds and yarn spinners in the north, and the multi-generational factory in Barcelona to the brand’s hub in Madrid; babaà’s founder Marta Bahillo is a champion of the Spanish knitwear industry. We speak with Marta about her unique value system, decision to focus on direct-to-consumer and supporting ecological innovation.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: Marta Bahillo, babaà
References: Violet Sessions podcast episode 23 with Marta Bahillo and Claire Ptak
Interview Transcript: Advance Copy
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
Artisanal soap brand ORRIS is rooted in holistic plant-based practices and artistic collaborations. Questioning their careers in fashion the founders, Lani Le Berre and Kenneth Koo, acted on an instinct and created a series of cold-pressed soaps that truly serve our skin. We look at how independent brands can pave the way for sustainable business models, tackle issues of waste and resist the pressure to perpetually bring out new products.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
BOOK: Dissolving the Ego of Fashion
Guest: Lani Le Berre and Kenneth Koo, ORRIS
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
Desert Vintage stands out with its graceful nomadic style and a contemporary point of view. Co-owners Salima Boufelfel and Roberto Cowan discuss their introduction to the world of vintage and the twist of fate that led them to inherit a much-cherished local business. Speaking from the store’s hometown Tucson, Arizona and New York, they reflect on the multitude of skills it takes to reinvent a business and the significance of supportive retail communities.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: Salima Boufelfel and Roberto Cowan, Desert Vintage
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
With precisely engineered handbags made using state-of-the-art Italian craftsmanship, Advene has grown steadily since launch thanks to close relationships with its customers and mentors. We speak to the brand's founders, Yijia Wang and Zi Xuan.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: Advene, Yijia Wang and Zi Xuan
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
South Africa nativeLukhanyo Mdingi started his namesake fashion label in 2015, growing a creative universe dedicated to human relationships ever since. We discuss the importance of love and patience in establishing a purposeful fashion brand.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: Lukhanyo Mdingi
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
Boutique skincare brand ROWSE deconstructs complicated lotions and unrealistic advertising to bring customers natural ingredients in their purest form. Speaking from Spain, CEO Gabriela Salord and Creative Director Nuria Val share their approach to building a dynamic beauty company and explain how entrepreneurial ambition can benefit nature, people and creativity.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: Gabriela Salord and Nuria Val, ROWSE
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
Dutch womenswear label CAES is Helen de Kluiver's exploration of slow fashion. The brand was realised from Helen's reflection on personal values and professional experiences in fast fashion. We look back on the moment when Helen took a leap of faith to pursue her vision and how CAES strives to represent ethical standards above archaic expectations of the fashion industry.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: CAES, Helen de Kluiver
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
Claudia and Isabella del Olmo and long-time collaborator Cécile Denis imagined a modern European guest house and artist residency in Casa Balandra. We discuss multiculturalism, creativity, relationships and moments of indulgence.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: Casa Balandra, Claudia and Isabella del Olmo, Cécile Denis
Original Interview: Advance Copy
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
Austin Austin is a British line of organic body care products crafted by the father and daughter duo Richard and Bessie Austin. We discuss integrity, longevity, and the value of social media in growing a thoughtful brand.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: Austin Austin, Richard and Bessie Austin
Original Interview: Advance Copy
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
Badaam is the embodiment of its founder Priyanka Kaul’s multi-faceted character and her wide-reaching interests. We talk about juggling two careers, the long-awaited rise of multi-cultural fashion designers and India's unmatched knowledge of natural fabrics.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: Priyanka Kaul, Badaam
Original Interview: Advance Copy
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
Arnsdorf is a robust womenswear label comprised of an atelier, online store and bricks and mortar boutique. Founder, Jade Sarita Arnott talks about the importance of designing new processes and not being afraid to cross industry barriers.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: Arnsdorf, Jade Sarita Arnott
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
Ilse Cornelissens, co-owner of lifestyle boutique and restaurant Graanmarkt 13, shares how a moral and financial decision to step away from discounting fashion freed up both physical and mental space to question how one becomes a better retail business.
Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: Graanmarkt 13, Ilse Cornelissens
Original Interview: Advance Copy
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
Celeste Tesoriero is the ever-optimistic permaculture practitioner and Founder of the sustainability consultancy Sonzai Studios. Today, she talks about Sonzai Studios’ mission to make sustainability simple, the power of working cooperatively and setting emotive goals.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com with specially commissioned imagery by Leif Prenzlau. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: Sonzai Studios, Celeste Tesoriero
Book: Post-Growth Living: For an Alternative Hedonism by Kate Soper
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
Architect, Urban Designer and Co-Founder of Terreform ONE Mitchell Joachim is a big-picture thinker whom we’ve invited to reflect on retail architecture, consumerism and designing against extinction.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: Mitchell Joachim
Website: Terreform ONE
Book: The Story of Stuff by Annie Leonard
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks by Guillaume de Ubeda
Founder of Melbourne-based sleepwear and leisure brand, SUKU Home, shares her down-to-earth approach to community building. Reminiscing on her childhood in Indonesia, Christine Lafian highlights the ongoing role of the country's artisans in creating her brand's distinct voice. Christine's story shows the importance of looking back to move forward.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: SUKU Home, Christine Lafian
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
Value chain strategist Kristine Kim uses her knowledge to help fashion brands evaluate and improve their supply chains. Kristine brings clarity to nuanced topics of environmental and social justice and explains why workers' wellbeing is the next frontier in brand building.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: Kristine Kim
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
In an intimate conversation, the Founder of fashion and objects studio Après Ski discusses the ups and downs of owning an independent label and how she found joy in developing the brand by listening to her creative and energetic instincts.
This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Guest: Après Ski, Lucia Vergara
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda
Welcome to Advance Copy, a space for independent thinkers in fashion. Speaking with founders of courageous companies we’ll find out how they’re reimagining the future of fashion. We’ll go on a journey deep inside and outside the industry, to look for pragmatic ideas that will help you grow a healthy brand instinctually, in any corner of the world.
Read our stories on advance-copy.com, share your thoughts and join our community of independent thinkers on Instagram @Advance_Copy.
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda