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Today’s production-driven U.S. hemp textile sector needs to be turned on its head, with the focus shifted to developing consumer demand for high-quality products, according to a new report from consultants Canna Markets Group (CMG).
And those products won’t come from cottonized hemp, the focus of most U.S. processors, the report suggests.
As the latter-day hemp industry has developed since passage of the 2018 Farm Bill – an epoch referred to as “Hemp V2.0” in CMG’s terminology – the focus has wrongly been on farming and production, to the near exclusion of product development and marketing, according to the report, authored by CMG Lead Strategist & Project Manager Joseph Carringer, a 25-year veteran in hemp and other textiles, and fashion.
“With this model, it appears that hemp is being cultivated and processed first, with attempts to find products for its use second. Product lines that cultivate consumer demand are necessary to achieve economies of scale,” Carringer writes in the report’s introduction. “Unfortunately, Hemp Industry V2.0 has done little to create these consumer-facing product lines.”
Premature supersizingBy prematurely supersizing their production, U.S.-based fiber hemp processors are scrambling to stabilize their operations by offshoring fiber into the international apparel manufacturing supply chains of China and India. That bolsters the economies of those nations while not addressing the lack of end-to-end domestic supply chains, Carringer argues.
“Why are we growing hemp in the US to offshore to other countries to finish into apparel?”Get the report
It also represents a national security threat by playing specifically into China’s strategy for competing in the global marketplace.
“If Hemp Industry V2.0 continues to pursue an offshoring model for its fiber sales instead of supporting and developing manufacturing supply chains domestically, it will continue to play into China’s long-term plan of economic dominance over the West by creating dependencies on its goods,” according to the report, “A Wearable Solution: Product Development for Industrial Hemp Textiles.”
Chasing cottonEarly processors’ fascination with cottonized hemp is also misplaced, according to Carringer, who suggests it is unrealistic to push hemp through existing supply chains for cotton, primarily for economic reasons.
Products that come from cottonized hemp – seen by many fiber processors as a “silver bullet” – ultimately cannot compete with those based on longer fiber, and wet and semi-wet spinning, which produce the most durable and high-quality hemp yarn and fabrics. By eschewing production of long fibers and high-end hemp fabrics, the U.S. hemp textile industry will also yield critical markets to other nations, Carringer warns.
“For industrial hemp to continue to develop as a commodity in the United States, there needs to be equal investment made into historically stable product line supply chains as there has been in agronomy, processing, and theoretical developmental markets, such as building materials and food,” the paper concludes.
Polish hemp varieties were the top performers in fiber hemp trials recently reported in a study by researchers at Oregon State University.
Henola, primarily a grain producer, and fiber-specific Białobrzeskie, had significantly higher bast fiber content, by percentage, compared to one Chinese cultivar and two American varieties in the trials, harvested in 2022.
The two Polish cultivars are from the Institute of Natural Fibers and Medicinal Plants (IWNiRZ), a government institution that controls Poland’s national hemp genetics through its role in research, breeding, certification, seed production, and regulatory compliance. Both varieties were developed by IWNiRZ researchers.
Consistent leadersHenola, a new-era variety, has also proved itself a top grain producer in trials in North Dakota and Australia. Białobrzeskie, a legacy Polish fiber cultivar, also had a strong showing among fiber varieties in the North Dakota trials two years ago.
Henola’s performance as a fiber producer means the variety, initially developed to produce hemp seeds, is emerging as a strong option for dual cropping of grain and fiber.
Other varieties in the Oregon trials were Jin Ma of China and NWG 2463 and NWG 4113, American varieties from Colorado-based New West Genetics. All of those are fiber varieties.
Key indicators in the study were the stem diameter of the plants and the percentage of bast fiber in the yield.
The two Polish hemp varieties are monoecious while the others are dioecious, reproductive differences that can affect variables such as pollination and fertilization, and plant development.
Bast fibers, the most valuable part of the hemp stalk, are the long, stringy fibers extracted from the outer layer of the stem. Their durability, flexibility, and resistance to degradation make them a robust and sustainable raw material for such diverse end products as textiles, paper, biocomposites, insulation and plastic.
Hemp varieties differ in their ability to produce concentrations of bast fiber, one indication of fiber quality, according to the study. While the greatest bast fiber content, by percentage, was associated with the Bialobrzeskie and Henola varieties, the other three varieties were similar in the total bast fiber produced.
Stem charactaristicsThe researchers noted that differences in stem diameter among the varieties tested were “significant.” Jin Ma stems measured 19.5 mm in diameter, while stems of the other varieties ranged from 10 mm to 13 mm.
“Stem diameter is generally inversely proportional to plant density. Seeding rates can influence this, with subsequent effects on plant populations,” according to the report.
“Stem diameter in this study is notably higher than stem diameter reported in other areas,” the researchers also noted.
Stem yield, also an important characteristic, has a direct relationship with bast fiber yield, the researchers said. Average stem yield ranged from 7,447 lbs/acre (Henola) to 37,062 lbs/acre (Jin Ma), with a mean among all five varieties of 17,669 lbs/acre, according to the report.
Good for OregonIn other findings, the report said:
The report concluded that all of the varieties “showed good adaptability and can be considered for . . . cultivation in Oregon.”
Stakeholders and local officials in south-central France say they are two weeks from harvesting first trial hemp crops, holding out hope that the plant could lift the fortunes of local farmers.
Aura Chanvre, a Lyon-based association working to revitalize the hemp textile industry in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, is leading the project, under which 11 farms in the Roannais and Forez sub-regions planted 18 hectares of trial fields this season.
Local supply chainsThe initiative is probing the potential for developing local hemp supply chains in the Massif Central, a large plateau region known for its rugged terrain, sparse population, and relatively underdeveloped economy. Most agriculture in the area is based on forage crops and livestock.
Massif Central is a large plateau region in south-central France
“It is a challenge for sustainable development and the circular economy that must be supported,” Hervé Gérin, sub-prefect of Roanne, told the L’essor Loire website. Other elected officials, farmers and producers are also involved in the initiative, which aims to create “a local, ecological, and equitable textile fiber supply chain.”
Fabric makers interestedLinder, a maker of fabrics, curtains, sheers, and tablecloths, and Tissages de Charlieu, a specialist in textiles for fashion, furniture, and the aeronautics industries, have both expressed interest in the initiative, according to L’essor Loire.
Hemp straw will also be explored for its potential to turn out hurd for hempcrete and fiber batting for France’s growing eco-construction industry.
The hemp trials are being financed by the municipalities participating in the project. The experimental phase could last from 3 to 5 years, organizers said.
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The move towards prefabricated building components is growing as interest grows in construction based on hempcrete and hemp fibers. The trend is reflected in the program of the 11th International … Symposium will hear about pre-fab building components, visit large-scale hempcrete project Read More »
While hemp production for textiles is at a “watershed moment,” hemp won’t bring promised sustainability without attention to how crops are grown, a new paper argues. “This is a material … Sustainability benefits can be lost if hemp textile production follows conventional ag Read More »
Packaging could be the first major application of hemp bioplastics, a new study from Canadian researchers suggests. The research, by a team at Western University (WU), London, Ontario, replaced high-density … Hemp can be substitute for polyethylene in packaging, Canadian study shows Read More »
A bi-partisan hemp bill that would separate grain and fiber outputs from flower-derived products such as CBD and other cannabinoids has been introduced in the U.S. House of Representatives. The … U.S. House bill would separate hemp cannabinoids from grain and fiber Read More »
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India’s Technology Development Board (TDB) has pledged $1.4 million to support development of technology for bast fiber processing of industrial hemp, flax, nettle and other plants. TDB, a part of … Indian government supports tech development for fibers with $1.4 million Read More »
The failure of a minor bill that would have helped CBD producers in South Dakota won’t have much of an effect on the overall hemp industry in the state, where … Veto of THC bill won’t have much effect on hemp in South Dakota Read More »
A bill introduced in the U.S. Senate would unburden hemp grain and fiber growers of sampling and testing protocols, costly requirements that disincentivize growers, according to the measure’s sponsors. While … Bi-partisan bill would ease testing requirements for hemp grain, fiber growers Read More »
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Swedish hemp company Ekolution AB is supplying insulation panels filled with hemp fiber in what the company says is the “world’s largest” construction project of its kind using hemp building materials.
The panels are going into a high-tech logistics center under construction by Swedish real estate developer NREP in Bålsta north of Stockholm. The hemp insulation is combined with advanced solar energy infrastructure in the project, which will support distribution operations of some of the leading logistics companies in Sweden.
“It’s a milestone for the whole hemp industry and in particular hemp building materials,” said Remi Loren, CEO and founder of Malmö -based Ekolution.
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The Ecuadorian government has greenlighted the country’s first hemp crop under a cooperative initiative among two companies and the Latin-American Industrial Hemp Association (LAIHA).
LAIHA member Green and Growth, Quito, and Nobis Holding de Inversiones, one of the largest holding groups in Ecuador, say they will initially grow hemp on 100 to 1,000 hectares, with fields and processing scaling up, and investment growing to $25 to $50 million starting in 2025.
‘Global commitment’
“Among the main objectives of this initiative is to position the country as one of the economies that join the global commitment to the production of sustainable materials and resources,” said Jaime Gómez, Executive Director of Green and Growth, who noted the operation “will generate hundreds of jobs.”
Growers in Ecuador have primarily cultivated cannabis flowers, which are being exported.
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Idaho-based Hempitecture has opened a production facility to turn out hemp-based nonwoven material. The Sun Valley-based company said the 33,000-sq. ft. factory will make a wide range of products including sustainable liners for cold freight shippers, and HempWool, an insulation product for the construction industry. The complex is powered by hydroelectric, solar, and wind power.
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Researchers in Texas have embarked on an ambitious project to develop hemp varieties for dual cropping of fiber and grain that can thrive in the state’s climate conditions. Ten to 20 varieties are expected to be developed by the beginning of 2024, and the goal is to release another 20-50 a year later, under a program at Texas A&M University.
The challenge is to develop cultivars that are heat and drought-stress tolerant and express less than 0.3% THC, the federal limit that defines industrial hemp from marijuana, according to Russ Jessup, a hemp breeding specialist in the Department of Soil and Crop Sciences at Texas A&M AgriLife Research, a part of the University’s Department of Soil and Crop Sciences.
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By Steve Allin When I first got involved with attempting to set up an industrial hemp industry in Ireland I spent a lot of time...
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The Tennessee Department of Agriculture (TDA) and a state hemp group have partnered to support research on the fiber supply chain by the University of...
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Dun Agro Hemp Group, Inc., the American corporation of the leading Dutch hemp company, said it will set up North American headquarters and build its...
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Bert James has joined FyberX Holdings, LLC, Williamsburg, Virginia, as lead agronomist. The company said James will work with FyberX’s farmer network in refining agronomic...
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Michigan-based Heartland Corporate Holdings LLC (“Heartland Industries”) has canceled plans to grow 5,500 acres of fiber hemp this year after potential investors backed out, citing...
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