Serious Eats: Recent Episodes
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Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf you're fortunate enough to live in an area with access to a variety of great Thai food you know that it's way more than a generic plate of stir-fried rice noodles with a smattering of vegetables and nonspecific Asian-y sauce, labeled "Pad thai." Thai food is a complex blend of hot, spicy, salty, sour, sweet, smoky, herbaceous, and aromatic flavors that vary throughout different regions of Thailand. We've tried to capture some of that diversity in our favorite Thai recipes—from an array of curries to Chinese-influenced stir-fries to light and fresh green papaya salad.
Don't be daunted by the ingredients list. You can find many items at an Asian grocery store or online, which has become much easier in recent years—plus, pantry items such as chile jam and fish sauce have a decent shelf life. So dive in and give these recipes a try. You might find yourself ditching takeout for homemade real-deal Thai food for your season three White Lotus watch party.
Guaydtiaao Tom Yam Moo Saap (Tom Yam Noodle Soup With Minced Pork)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis noodle soup is a hearty one-bowl meal built on an umami-rich pork-broth base that's flavored with additional seasonings and condiments, and loaded with a variety of mix-ins, like soft-boiled eggs, pork balls, minced pork, fried wontons, bean sprouts, and fresh greens.
Guaydtiaao Reuua Neuua Dtoon (Thai Boat Noodles With Braised Beef)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOriginally served on boats floating down canals, this Thai noodle soup is bright, savory, slightly sweet and sour, and packed with morsels of tender beef, meatballs, and garlicky noodles. Don't be intimidated by the ingredients list—you can break the recipe into manageable chunks, like cooking the broth and beef ahead of time. Trust us, this soup is worth it!
Guaydtiaao Bpet Dtoon (Thai Duck Noodle Soup)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTender duck is braised in an aromatic soy base, then deboned and combined with garlicky noodles, fresh greens, and a robust duck broth to create a complex and comforting soup. Drizzle on a little or a lot of sharp and spicy homemade chile vinegar at the end to cut through the richness of the duck.
Guaydtiaao Moo Nam Sai (Thai Clear Pork Noodle Soup With Pork Meatballs)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis Thai soup features pork in three ways: a rich savory clear pork broth, marinated sliced pork, and fish sauce-infused rustic pork meatballs. Cooked noodles are tossed in garlic oil before being transferred into serving bowls to enhance their flavor and the sensation of slurping each oil-slicked noodle.
Tom Kha Gai (Thai Chicken Soup with Coconut and Galangal)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWhile most people are drawn to the creaminess and sour and salty flavors of tom kha gai, what truly makes this soup is galangal (after all, its name is literally "boiled galangal"), which is front and center in this recipe. We add the aromatics in stages and combine chicken stock and coconut cream to create a perfectly balanced light and creamy broth layered with flavor.
Pad Kee Mao (Thai Drunken Noodles)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThere's no need to order takeout when you can whip up this intensely spicy and aromatic Thai restaurant favorite in 30 minutes at home. We scale back on the noodles to keep the focus on the aromatics, vegetables, and protein. A base of Thai chiles, garlic, and makrut lime leaves ensures every saucy bite hits you with flavor.
Crying Tiger (Thai-Style Grilled Steak With Dry Chili Dipping Sauce)Serious Eats / Julia HartbeckThe origin of the moniker "Crying Tiger" is dubious at best, but there's no denying this is one of the best versions of the classic dish. Instead of deep-frying or sautéeing the beef and serving it up as a salad, as restaurants tend to do, we coat the steaks in a mixture of soy, oyster sauce, brown sugar, and vegetable oil, and grill them over charcoal to a gorgeously smoky medium rare. Sliced up and served simply with a tomatoey dried chile dipping sauce and some steamed rice, this beef is so good it would make even tigers weep with joy.
Goong Pad Nam Prik Pao (Thai Stir-Fried Shrimp With Chile Jam)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikStore-bought or homemade chile jam is the star ingredient that transforms shrimp, long beans, and oyster mushrooms into a standout stir-fry. Cooking the components separately keeps the wok hot and prevents steaming so you capture all the smoky flavor of stir-frying.
Makheua Yao Pad Tao Jiao (Stir-Fried Eggplant With Minced Pork)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikArguably one of my all-time favorite Thai takeout orders, this classic Thai-Chinese dish of stir-fried eggplant and minced pork is flavored with fermented yellow bean paste, garlic, fresh chiles, and Thai basil for an aromatic punch. You don't need much more than a bowl of steamed rice to complete the meal.
Gaeng Khiao Waan Gai (Thai Green Curry with Chicken)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikGreen chile, lemongrass, galangal, garlic, shallots, dried spices, and shrimp paste form the aromatic base of this bright, spicy, savory curry. Coconut milk and palm sugar provide a subtle sweetness that beautifully balances the spicy, savory elements, and a richness that pairs well with the relative leanness of chicken meat.
Gaeng Massaman Neua (Thai Massaman Curry with Beef)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikGaeng massaman has a bit of everything: fresh Thai ingredients like lemongrass, warm dry spices like cardamom and cumin, along with sour from tamarind, sweetness from palm sugar, salty funk from fish sauce, and richness from coconut milk and beef fat. It all comes together in a hearty beef and potato braise that is Thai comfort food.
Gaeng Garee Makheua Yao (Thai Yellow Curry with Eggplant)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIts South Asian-influenced warm spice profile and characteristic orange-yellow hue distinguish this heavily spiced and relatively mild coconut-based curry from its punchier green cousin prik gaeng khiao waan. While gaeng garee is often paired with chicken or beef, this version is 100 percent vegetarian, with soy sauce replacing the fish sauce and shrimp paste. You can use store-bought or homemade yellow curry paste—just be sure it says gari/kari or karee/garee on the label if you opt to purchase it.
Kanom Jeen Nam Ya (Thai Fish Curry with Rice Noodles)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWhat differentiates kanom jeen nam ya from other styles of curries is that it doesn't start with creating a paste from fresh ingredients in a mortar and pestle. Rather, the ingredients are roughly chopped up and simmered with fresh fish in coconut milk and then blended to produce a thick, noodle-coating sauce. Of course, you can't have kanom jeen nam ya without rice noodles, an assortment of vegetables, herbs, and other accompaniments.
Laab Moo Isan (Thai Isan-Style Minced Pork Salad)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIf you love your salad laden with protein then laab is for you. This bright, spicy, and refreshing northeastern Thai meat salad is made from simmering ground pork in a small amount of water to prevent browning, then seasoned with fish sauce, lime juice, and ground dried chiles. The dressed meat is tossed with shallots, culantro, cilantro, and scallions, then coated with khao khua, or toasted rice powder, to give it a nutty aroma.
Som Tam Thai (Central Thai-Style Green Papaya Salad)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikA ubiquitous Thai street food and restaurant menu item, green papaya salad is refreshing, light, and quick to prepare at home—especially if you have a julienned peeler. A sequence of ingredients is pounded in a mortar and pestle to form the sweet, sour, savory dressing, then the julienned green papaya is added last and given a light pounding to help it absorb the dressing while still retaining its crunch.
Yam Woon Sen (Thai Glass Noodle Salad With Shrimp)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThis noodle salad works well as a light lunch or part of a larger ensemble of dishes and comes together in minutes. We cook the shrimp and ground pork in stages in the same pot of water used for the noodles for efficiency and to add flavor to the noodles. Glass noodles act like a sponge to absorb all the bright, punchy flavors of the dressing, while shallots, tomatoes, Chinese celery, and roasted peanuts provide a refreshing crunch.
Yam Khai Dao (Thai Fried Egg Salad) RecipeSerious Eats / Derek LucciThe shallow frying of eggs in a wok with ample oil produces a wonderous textural contrast between the crispy, lacy texture around the edges of the whites, and the soft, runny yolk. Here, we top the fried egg with dressed sliced aromatics and fresh herbs to add brightness and crunch. Fat from the runny yolk adds body and tempers the punchy dressing.
Khao Niao Mamuang (Thai Coconut Sticky Rice With Mango)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIf you want to end your meal with something sweet, but not too sweet, this dessert hits all the right notes: tender, but not mushy steamed Thai sticky rice drenched in a creamy salty-sweet coconut milk sauce and sliced ripe mango. It's worth getting Ataúlfo mangoes for this dessert because they're sweeter, less fibrous, more flavorful, and more fragrant.
Thai Iced TeaSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezSure, you can find Thai iced tea at just about any tea and boba shop these days. However, nothing beats making it fresh at home. For one thing, you control the quality of the brew and the levels of sweetness and creaminess, which ultimately guarantees you a Thai iced tea that's full-bodied and flavorful.
Pad ThaiSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezLast but definitely not least is real-deal pad Thai. Maybe the most famous Thai noodle dish outside of Thailand, a well-made pad Thai has a balance of salty, sour, and sweet flavors. Here, we break down how to make great pad Thai at home with an in-depth look of its key components: aromatics, noodles, sauce, and fresh finishing touches.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPad Thai needs no introduction. It may be the most recognized Thai dish worldwide, and for good reason—it’s delicious. The noodles deliver a balance of sweet, sour, and salty flavors from palm sugar, tamarind, and fish sauce, nuttiness from peanuts, freshness from mung bean sprouts, and a subtle garlicky kick from Chinese flat garlic chives.
Yet, despite its popularity, it can often fall short at your neighborhood takeout spot—too sweet, lacking depth of flavor or umami, and frequently missing key ingredients such as Chinese flat garlic chives (often replaced with green onions for convenience). This might be a dish you never imagined making in your kitchen, and admittedly, gathering all the ingredients can feel like a chore. But with ingredients on hand, you’ll realize the process for making incredible pad Thai at home is far more approachable than it seems.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMore Than Just TakeoutLet’s address the elephant in the room: “Pad Thai is just a dish for tourists.” I think due to pad Thai’s global popularity, and this notion that it's somehow not "authentic," the new generation of Thai chefs and restaurants often steer away from it to showcase other aspects of Thai cuisine. This is understandable and admirable to see since for many, pad Thai is synonymous with Thai takeout, and it’s often the default choice for those unfamiliar with the cuisine. However, the idea that it’s solely a dish for tourists is a misconception. It’s important to recognize that pad Thai is still a beloved dish in Thailand, enjoyed by Thai people. The reality is, that if you’re a restaurant owner in Thailand, you need to make money. What will sell the most? Pad Thai.
Breaking pad Thai into its key components makes it easier to understand and execute. It may seem like an intimidating laundry list of ingredients at first, so I like to organize the dish into distinct blocks: aromatics, noodles, sauce, and finishing touches.
The Aromatic BasePad Thai begins with cooking pork in neutral oil, a nod to the tradition in which pork fat is often used to infuse the dish with a subtle, rich flavor. Once the pork is cooked, the iconic aromatic base is built from shallots, dried shrimp, pressed tofu, and sweet preserved radish.
A few ingredient notes: First, pressed tofu, also often labeled as extra-firm tofu, is the ideal tofu choice here. It has minimal water content and holds its structure exceptionally well during cooking. My preferred brand, Nature’s Soy, offers a noticeably firmer and drier texture than other standard extra-firm varieties.
As for the sweet preserved radish, be sure to seek out the pre-minced sweet version, as the salty counterpart won’t deliver the same balance of flavors essential to the dish. Adding these ingredients to the wok together creates pad Thai’s deeply flavorful foundation. After they have had a moment to mingle and release their flavors into the oil, I add the egg.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor years, I added the egg at the end of cooking, after the noodles were tossed with all the other ingredients, as this is common in many recipes. But recently, I’ve switched up the order and have started adding the egg right after stir-frying the aromatics—before the noodles and sauce are added. This allows the egg to absorb more of the infused oil from the aromatics that have just been cooked in the wok. Plus it’s easier to break up the egg into smaller pieces in a less crowded skillet without the noodles, ensuring the cooked egg integrates seamlessly into the dish once the noodles are tossed in.
The NoodlesIn Thailand, pad Thai is often made with fresh medium-size rice noodles (sen lek) as well as dried. In the US, your best option is to use dried rice noodles. Look for medium-size noodles with an ingredient list that includes only rice flour and water. These noodles need to be soaked in water for about 30 minutes until they become pliable. Once rehydrated, they can be stored in the fridge for a couple of days and will be ready to use when needed.
Unlike pad see ew, in which using pre-cooked fresh noodles is standard, pad Thai relies on the sauce and additional water in the wok to cook the noodles properly. This is one instance where I would not advise you to follow the package instructions. Do not pre-boil the noodles—this is a step that often leads to overcooked, clumpy pad Thai.
The SaucePad Thai, at its core, is a rice noodle dish, and those noodles act like a sponge, soaking up every flavor you introduce. This makes a well balanced sauce absolutely critical to the dish's success. Forget ketchup and sriracha, and stick to the essentials: palm sugar, fish sauce, and tamarind. Pad Thai leans naturally toward the sweeter side, typically requiring roughly equal parts of each component to strike that iconic sweet-sour-salty balance.
When it comes to tamarind, I highly recommend buying a block and making your own paste. This approach gives you control over the paste's thickness and is also more cost-effective than purchasing pre-made versions. However, be sure to use the correct variety—for this and other Thai recipes, avoid Indian tamarind pastes, which are thick and syrupy, as the ratios would be drastically impacted.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Finishing TouchesThe final touches are what bring pad Thai all together and without them, the dish just wouldn’t be pad Thai. Those components are chopped peanuts, crisp mung bean sprouts, and Chinese flat garlic chives (not to be confused with Chinese flowering chives). I use them in abundance as their fresh flavor balances the sweet-tart sauce to lighten the dish while also adding quite a bit of volume to make the dish more substantial. The garlic chives provide a pungent garlicky flavor, the peanuts a nutty aroma, and the bean sprouts a neutral crunch that defines the dish and makes it a proper pad Thai. Garlic chives are non-negotiable for me. Yet, I often see restaurants and internet chefs opting for green onions instead. If you’ve already put in the effort to gather the other ingredients for pad Thai, don’t cut corners now–seek out Chinese flat garlic chives!
Pad Thai is not inherently spicy, but it is highly customizable at the table. Thai cooks expect diners to adjust the dish to their liking with Thai chili powder for heat, lime for additional sourness, peanuts for nuttiness, and sugar for sweetness. In Thailand, you might also find accompaniments like banana blossoms, which add astringency to counterbalance the sweet and sour flavors, as well as green mango or pennywort—elements rarely seen outside Thailand but welcome additions to the dish.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFinally, the most important thing I can say is to cook in small batches. This recipe is designed for two servings, but if you're cooking for four, double the recipe and prepare it in two batches. Resist the temptation to cook everything at once. Your stovetop can't handle that volume, and the results will suffer. Cooking in smaller portions ensures proper heat distribution, better sauce reduction, and perfectly cooked noodles.
For the Rice Noodles: In a medium bowl, cover noodles with slightly warm water (about 110°F; 43°C). Allow noodles to hydrate until pliable, about 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeanwhile, for the Pork: In a mixing bowl, stir together pork, fish sauce, and sugar until well combined.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Sauce: In a small saucepan, combine palm sugar and tamarind and set over low heat, stirring until sugar is dissolved (if sugar is slow to dissolve, add 1 tablespoon water). Remove from the heat and stir in fish sauce until well combined.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Stir-Fry: Heat a wok or large carbon steel or cast iron skillet over high heat until lightly smoking. Add oil and swirl to coat the surface. Immediately add pork and, using a wok spatula or large spoon, stir until about halfway cooked, about 20 seconds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd tofu, sweet preserved radish, dried shrimp, and shallot and continue to stir rapidly until aromatic and heated through, about 40 seconds. Push everything to one side of wok.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCrack egg into now-empty side of the wok, and using wok spatula or large spoon, break yolk and briefly stir to distribute yolk, then cook without stirring until egg is mostly set (you want to avoid scrambling the egg as it sets). Once set, fold the aromatic mixture over the egg, flipping and scraping with the spoon or wok spatula to ensure nothing sticks. Stir until everything is well combined and egg is broken up into smaller pieces.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd rehydrated noodles, then pour sauce around edges of wok followed by 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons water. Continue stirring until sauce is absorbed, about 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd a 1/4 cup Chinese flat garlic chives and 1/4 cup mung bean sprouts and continue stirring until wilted, about 30 seconds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTurn off heat and add remaining Chinese flat garlic chives and mung bean sprouts, along with peanuts and stir to combine. Serve immediately with additional crushed peanuts, sugar, lime wedges, Thai chile powder, and fish sauce on the side.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentLarge carbon steel wok or large carbon steel or cast iron skillet, wok spatula or large spoon
NotesYou can buy boneless pork shoulder and slice it very thinly yourself; par-freezing helps for thinner slices. You want roughly 1/8 inch–thick slices that are about 1x1.5 inches in size. You can also buy pre-sliced pork as it is sold in Asian markets for hot pot instead.
Look for tamarind concentrate from a Thai brand; Indian and other South Asian brands of tamarind concentrate or tamarind paste are not a good substitute here. Alternatively, you can buy a block of tamarind pulp and prepare it as follows: Remove any seeds, then soak the pulp in an equal volume of boiling water; let stand until softened, then squeeze by hand until tamarind and water are fully blended.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe noodles can be rehydrated and stored in a zip-top bag in the refrigerator up to 2 days in advance.
The sauce can be made up to 2 weeks in advance and refrigerated.
The pork can be marinated up to 1 day in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
Pad Thai is best served immediately, but leftovers can safely be stored for up to 3 days in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf I say "bread dumplings," do you say, "Yay!"? Probably not. And that is the challenge before me, because you should feel very excited about these bread dumplings, or canederli as they're called in Italian. They are far better than they will ever sound on paper.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCanederli come from northeastern Italy, especially around Trentino-Alto Adige near the Austrian border. The name is the Italian form of the German "knödel," which refers to a broad class of bread dumplings eaten throughout Central and Eastern Europe. For many American readers, canederli may remind them of matzo balls, the Ashkenazi Jewish version of this very same type of dish. In fact, the Yiddish word for matzo balls is knaidlach. Can you see where this is going? Knaidlach, canederli—these are close cousins in both name and form, and it's not an exaggeration to say that canederli are something like matzo balls done Italian style.
I don't want to suggest that one descends directly from the other. Canederli are not Italian matzo balls, nor are matzo balls Jewish canederli. But they are related, so let's compare. In terms of seasoning, canederli are often loaded with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, sautéed onions and pork (either speck, which is a cured and smoked ham, or Italian sausage), spices like black pepper and nutmeg, and minced herbs like parsley. Canederli lack leaveners such as the baking powder and carbonated water that are common in matzo balls, and they are denser than the floaters many strive for with matzo balls. In canederli, pork fat and butter take the place of a matzo balls' schmaltz (or, less deliciously, oil), while the cheese adds extra savory flavor and umami.
In the case of matzo balls, the bread is crushed matzo, which starts off dry like a cracker right out of the box, while canederli are built on a technique that Italians do so well, which is taking leftover, stale bread and turning it into something improbably delicious. One thing matzo balls and canederli have in common: They're both poached in chicken broth, and the quality of that broth matters.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe beauty of canederli, aside from their economic use of stale bread that might otherwise end up in the trash, is that they are extremely adaptable. You have a lot of options for the bread and can play quite a bit with the seasonings. The following tips should set you up for success.
Choose Your Own BreadventureMatzo balls are one point of comparison for canederli, but I also want to point out their relationship to meatballs. As I've written before, many meatball recipes contain a panade—moistened bread or breadcrumbs—which adds tenderness and moisture to what would otherwise be a heavy orb of meat. Think of a classic Italian-American meatball's ingredients, including the panade, eggs, onion, garlic, minced pancetta or other fatty pork products, spices, herbs, cheese, and seasonings, plus of course the ground meat. Canederli are basically the same formula...minus the ground meat. It's almost like the panade takes over the whole thing and becomes the meatball. The fact that this is arguably as delicious as a meatball is a testament to the clever frugality of Italian cooks.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe bread is the most critical ingredient in canederli, and it's the trickiest because it's the most variable. I've seen cooks make canederli from plain fine breadcrumbs, rock-hard chunks of stale bread that have been processed to coarse breadcrumbs, and cubes of day-old bread that's not at its prime but also hasn't totally turned to stone. And while I haven't seen it, I know from experience you can also make canederli with oven-dried bread, if you find yourself in a situation where you want to make these and don't actually have stale bread kicking around.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe challenge, given all these bread possibilities, is how much hydration in the form of milk is needed to sufficiently wet the bread so that it can form balls that won't crumble and fall apart—the more stale and dehydrated the bread, the more hydration it requires. From the perspective of a recipe developer like myself, this means I can't really give you one perfect ratio of bread to milk, since it's going to depend on the bread (or breadcrumbs) you're using.
The good news is the recipe is easily tweaked, and it's what you'll need to do when making these at home: Start with a basic ratio of equal parts by weight of bread to milk. Then, if the mixture is too crumbly, simply add more milk bit by bit until it begins to hold together. Conversely, if it's too wet and pasty, incorporate dry breadcrumbs to soak up some of the excess liquid.
At left, a canederlo made with less stale bread, at right with homemade breadcrumbsSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezI've made canederli with bread and breadcrumbs of varying dryness levels, and in terms of overall preference, I find this is one recipe where the drier, the better. Fresher bread, even when not overly hydrated, has a tendency to make denser, pastier canederli. The texture of canederli made from totally dried bread is lighter and less compacted, which you can see in the photo above—the one on the left is from less stale day-old diced bread while the one on the right with the airier structure was made from very stale homemade breadcrumbs. My advice is if your bread isn't stale enough, pop it in a low oven and dry it out.
Porky PicksSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn Italian cooking, pork's role as a flavoring is just as important, if not more, than its role as a primary protein. You can see this in all the dishes in which cured pork products such as pancetta, guanciale, and prosciutto add fat, savoriness, saltiness, and depth, but not a substantial amount of actual meat. In canederli, the pork is playing just such a seasoning role, and the fun part is you can choose what to put in it.
Two of the most common options are speck and crumbled Italian sausage. Speck is a cured and smoked ham—think prosciutto but smoky—that comes from the same region as canederli. As for the sausage, In the Alto Adige, they would use local varieties of sausage, but we can just grab a nice big link of fennel-flavored "Italian" sausage or some other similar option; it won't be the same as the local Italian sausages but it'll taste great.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNo matter which pork you choose, the basic process is the same: sauté minced onion in butter or oil until softened, add the minced speck or crumbled sausage, and then cook. The speck will be ready sooner since it's in smaller pieces and cured, whereas the sausage takes a couple extra minutes to break up and cook through. Otherwise, it's a one-to-one swap, so feel free to use either.
Do Not Sleep on the BrothSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezJust as with matzo ball soup, a bad broth can ruin otherwise good bread dumplings. A good broth, though, doesn't necessarily require a lot of work. To make the rich broth you see in the photo above, I started with some store-bought chicken stock (not boxed, but made by the butcher) and then quickly made a more intense stock by cooking it in a pressure cooker with some extra chicken bones and vegetables like onion, carrot, celery, garlic, and herbs.
To develop that really rich brown color, I left the onion skins on the onion, which is a great trick that has both visual and flavor impacts. The whole thing took me about 30 minutes. (And to be clear, you don't need to make stock with stock—you can do the same thing with water, it'll just be a little less rich.)
Serving OptionsSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThere are two classic ways to serve canederli, and one hybrid way that I'm particularly fond of. The classics are to either serve the canederli in a bowl with the broth, almost exactly the way matzo balls are usually served, or to put them on a plate and spoon browned butter with frizzled sage on top. I'm firmly in the why not both? camp, and have found the most satisfying servings of canederli to have both a bit of broth and the sage butter.
And of course some more cheese on top, because who wouldn't want that?
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large mixing bowl, stir together bread with milk until bread is evenly moistened. Set aside to allow milk to fully soak in.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a medium skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Add onion and cook, stirring, until softened but not browned, about 3 minutes. Add speck or sausage, and cook, stirring (and breaking up sausage into small pieces if using sausage), until onion is fully tender and, if using sausage, sausage is cooked through, about 2 minutes for speck and 5 minutes for sausage. Set aside to cool slightly.
Add eggs, cheese, parsley, salt, pepper, and nutmeg (if using). Using clean hands, mix until all ingredients are fully incorporated. Add onion-pork mixture and mix once more to fully incorporate.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMake a test bread dumpling: If mixture seems too dry to hold together when forming balls (you can test this by trying to make a ball), add more milk 1 tablespoon at a time until sufficiently moistened; if mixture seems too wet, dense, and pasty, add additional breadcrumbs 1 tablespoon at a time until excess moisture has been absorbed but mixture is still able to hold a ball without falling apart.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLine a baking sheet with parchment. Using lightly moistened hands, roll bread mixture into roughly 1 1/2- to 2-inch balls, then set on prepared baking sheet.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large saucepan or small pot or Dutch oven, heat broth until simmering (season with salt, if needed). Poach bread dumplings until fully heated through and floating on the surface, about 15 minutes. (You should be able to poach all of the dumplings at once, but if you have trouble fitting them all, work in batches to avoid overcrowding.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeanwhile, if making frizzled sage, in a clean skillet, melt optional remaining 4 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat until foaming. Toss in sage leaves and cook, swirling, until frizzled, about 1 minute. Season with salt.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo serve: You can either serve the poached dumplings on plates without the broth, spooning the frizzles sage leaves and butter on top, along with a sprinkling of grated cheese, or you can ladle some of the broth into serving bowls and set the dumplings in that, again sprinkling cheese on top (or you can do what I like to, which is to serve them in some broth with the frizzled sage and butter spooned on top, plus the cheese).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNotesYou have a lot of options with the bread you use. You can use store-bought breadcrumbs, very stale bread that you process into course or fine breadcrumbs in a food processor, or semi-stale bread that is past its prime but not yet a rock. My experience is that the best canederli come from older, drier, staler bread, so I would encourage you to oven-dry any bread that still has some softness and moisture before using (cut it into cubes, pop it in a low oven around 300°F/150°C, and cook it until it's dried out but not deeply browned). You can leave the crusts on your bread or remove them, whichever appeals more.
Depending on the bread you use, you may need to adjust by adding more milk to moisten it more so the dumpling balls hold together, or in some cases dry it out with breadcrumbs if the moisture is too wet and pasty.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe uncooked canederli can be formed, set on a parchment-lined baking sheet, wrapped in plastic, and refrigerated for up to 1 day before cooking. Once cooked, leftover canederli can be cooled and stored in the broth; reheat gently before serving.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPlenty of people gush about steakhouses as "timeless institutions" dedicated to meat and Mad Men–era nostalgia. But they are a lot less appealing when the bill arrives. On the rare occasion I’m dining out at a steakhouse I’m often left wondering, “Couldn’t I have just cooked this myself at home?” The answer is yes.
For a fraction of the cost of a steakhouse meal, you can easily make a top-notch steak dinner such as this timeless steak Oscar. It features mahogany-crusted tender filet mignon medallions stacked with snappy asparagus and a mound of butter-basted crab meat, all draped with a glossy, rich béarnaise sauce. It’s extravagant dining at its finest.
Serious Eats / Two BitesThe dish dates back to the late 19th century in Sweden, where it’s believed to have been served for the first time to the its namesake, King Oscar II of Sweden, as a dish of veal (not steak), crab, and béarnaise sauce. It wasn’t until the dish migrated to the US that steak versions began appearing on steakhouse menus, and now the dish is also often found with lobster or shrimp instead of the original crabmeat.
It may seem intimidating to recreate this restaurant classic at home, but cooking a great steak is actually dead simple, and making the accompanying sauce, crab, and asparagus should be as well. The key to recreating this showstopper at home is using the best ingredients, relying on foolproof cooking methods, and coordinating the timing of cooking to guarantee hot, perfectly cooked food. Here’s how to perfect each component and bring it all together to ensure steakhouse-worthy results.
The Béarnaise SauceThis béarnaise has the ideal food-coating creaminess, which makes it perfect for dipping your slices of steak, asparagus spears, and, eventually, fingers into. Béarnaise is a classic French sauce and a derivative of hollandaise. Like hollandaise, béarnaise is a warm emulsion of butterfat, egg yolks, and a reduction of white wine and vinegar, but the addition of shallots and tarragon distinguishes béarnaise from its mother sauce. Traditionally, this temperamental emulsion is made by whisking the ingredients together on the stovetop over a double boiler, but a lot can go wrong: The sauce can easily break, the egg yolks can scramble, or the emulsion may never properly form, leaving you with a thin and soupy sauce instead of a velvety and glossy one.
Luckily, J. Kenji López-Alt, Serious Eats' former culinary director and food science whiz ,solved these problems when he developed his foolproof béarnaise sauce recipe, which uses an immersion blender to quickly create a stable emulsion, rather than whisking by hand. (If you don't own one already, check out our immersion blender reviews for recommendations.) For this version, I follow his same method, but I’ve scaled down his recipe by half, since we only need enough sauce for two servings. I also always add a pinch of ground cayenne pepper to my béarnaise. It doesn’t make the sauce spicy, but rather adds a subtle kick that, when paired with the vinegar, livens up the butter sauce to balance its richness.
The SteakThe difficulty in cooking filets mignon, or any cut of the tenderloin, is that they contain very little intramuscular fat. As a result, they are relatively flavorless compared to well-marbled steak cuts such as ribeye or strip steak. While a plain filet mignon might lack flavor, its mildness makes it the perfect canvas for a rich sauce.
Less fat in the meat also means less insulation from heat penetration, thus a greater chance of overcooking the lean meat and turning it from tender to tough. The first step to ensuring the most flavorful, tender meat possible is dry-brining the steaks. Dry-brining is our preferred method for seasoning both large and small pieces of meat. This process, in which the steak is liberally salted and left to sit at room temperature for at least 40 minutes or refrigerated for an extended period of time, is particularly beneficial for lean, relatively bland proteins like filet mignon, which has a tendency to dry out when exposed to high heat.
Serious Eats / Two BitesThe other key technique used to guarantee a juicy filet mignon is to use Serious Eats' time-tested perfect pan-seared steaks technique. It’s simple and straightforward, which is ideal when preparing a meal like this one with multiple components. As described above, the steaks are liberally salted and left to sit for at least 40 minutes before they’re seared over ripping high heat in a cast iron, carbon steel, or stainless steel pan, flipping every two minutes to ensure even cooking and a deeply browned crust. But it’s worth pointing out that you can adapt this recipe to use your own preferred cooking method, such as our reverse-seared, butter-basted, or sous vide steak recipes. Or you can even swap in a different steak cut, such as ribeye or strip steak. Once the steaks are cooked, set them aside to rest while preparing the asparagus and crab, which shouldn't take more than 10 minutes—the ideal amount of time for the steaks to rest.
A Smarter Way to Cook the Asparagus and CrabIn almost every recipe and restaurant version of steak Oscar I’ve come across, the asparagus is blanched and shocked before it is reheated and served. Blanching the asparagus is a logical cooking method in a restaurant setting, as proper blanching and cold-shocking of the asparagus in an ice water bath will ensure the asparagus retains its vibrant green color and is tender while still retaining its snappy bite. Plus in a restaurant, a large batch of asparagus can be prepped in advance, set aside, then reheated briefly in individual portions. But when cooking all the components at home for just two people, there’s no need to pull out every pot and pan in your cabinet to make dinner, no matter how fancy the meal may be. Remember, you are the chef and clean-up crew, so it's beneficial to simplify the process whenever possible.
The streamlined cooking approach I prefer for the asparagus is to steam and sear it right in the same skillet the filet was cooked in. Sticking with one pan not only streamlines the process, but cooking the asparagus in the remaining steak fond builds another layer of flavor. I simply add the asparagus, some neutral oil, and a couple tablespoons of water to the remaining fat and browned beef bits in the skillet, then cover the pan briefly to steam the asparagus—this also loosens all those delicious meat drippings—and finally uncover the pan and sear the asparagus until it’s crisp-tender and spotty brown. The asparagus is way more flavorful than a boring blanched version, especially after the addition of minced fresh chives, with the perk of no extra pans to clean.
Serious Eats / Two BitesAfter the asparagus is cooked, the same skillet is used to baste the crab with butter and garlic, then the crab is removed from the heat and tossed with fresh lemon juice and a sprinkle of paprika for brightness and acidity. It’s the last component that’s cooked before plating, which is logical since it’s also the component that will cool down the quickest. Cooking it last ensures it is still nice and warm when you plate and serve the finished dish.
Bringing It All Together: One Pricey Game of JengaA large part of steak Oscar’s appeal is its towering presentation. Traditionally each filet is topped with asparagus and then a mound of crab, before it’s all blanketed with the béarnaise sauce. Think of it as a delicious (and expensive!) game of Jenga, where every piece needs to be placed perfectly so it doesn't topple over. But it always seemed odd to me to have these big long spears perform a balancing act on top of the small round filets. It’s more logical to have the asparagus as the base that the steaks sit on. It’s not only a more attractive and stable presentation, but as you slice through the meat and into the vegetables, the steak juices and sauce blend together to coat the asparagus, giving the spears even more flavor.
And while it's not traditional, I’ve added my own signature finishing touch to this dish: a final flourish of toasted seasoned panko breadcrumbs. They’re extremely simple to prepare—taking only two minutes in the microwave—and you can even make them a day ahead if you choose. Lemon zest and pepper flakes pep up the breadcrumbs and their light, crisp texture is a welcome contrast to the silky sauce and tender meat. Without the crunch, the composed dish is just a tower of soft, tender extravagance, but this final crunchy sprinkle makes the meal even better than what you'd get at a steakhouse—without breaking the bank.
For the Breadcrumb Topping: In a microwave-safe bowl, toss panko with oil, salt, and pepper. Microwave panko, stirring occasionally, until deep golden brown, 2 to 4 minutes; let cool completely. Stir in chives, lemon zest, and pepper flakes; set aside (Topping can be refrigerated for up to 2 days; bring to room temperature before using.)
Serious Eats /Two BitesFor Preparing the Steaks: Pat steaks dry with paper towels. Season liberally with salt. Allow to rest at room temperature for at least 40 minutes and up to 2 hours. Alternatively, place salted steaks on a plate or on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate, uncovered, for up to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Two BitesFor the Béarnaise Sauce: In a small saucepan, combine wine, vinegar, shallots, tarragon stems, and black peppercorns, and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Adjust heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook until reduced to about 1 tablespoon of liquid, 8 to 10 minutes. Carefully strain liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a small heatproof bowl, pressing on the solids with the back of a spoon to extract as much liquid as possible. Let mixture cool slightly.
Serious Eats / Two BitesIn a tall-sided cup that barely fits the head of an immersion blender, combine egg yolks and the wine-vinegar reduction. Using an immersion blender, blend mixture until well-combined, about 30 seconds. (Alternatively, a traditional blender can be used.)
Serious Eats / Two BitesIn a small saucepan, melt butter with cayenne over high heat, swirling constantly, until foaming subsides. Transfer butter to a 1-cup liquid measuring cup.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPlace head of immersion blender into the bottom of cup with egg yolk mixture and turn it on. With blender constantly running, slowly pour hot butter into cup in a thin and steady stream. Continue blending, raising and lowering blender head slightly to fully emulsify butter with the egg yolk mixture, until a thick and creamy sauce forms. It should be able to coat a spoon but still flow off of it; if it is too thick, blend in a small amount of water to thin it out. Stir in minced tarragon and season to taste with salt. Transfer to a small lidded pot and keep in a warm place, off heat, for up to 1 hour before serving. Béarnaise cannot be cooled and reheated. (See notes.)
Serious Eats /Two BitesFor Cooking the Steaks: In a 10-inch stainless steel, cast iron, or carbon steel skillet, heat oil over high heat until just smoking. Season steaks with pepper, add to pan, and cook, flipping with tongs every 2 minutes until well browned on all sides (including edges, which you can sear by holding steaks sideways with tongs) and the internal temperature has reached 110°F (43°C) for rare or 130°F (54°C) for medium (steak will continue to cook for a bit afterward), 6 to 12 minutes depending on thickness. Transfer steaks to a plate; set aside and let rest while preparing asparagus and crab. Do not wipe skillet clean.
Serious Eats / Two BitesFor the Asparagus: In now-empty skillet, combine asparagus, 2 tablespoons water, and oil. Cover and cook over high heat, shaking skillet occasionally to roll asparagus around, until asparagus are bright green and nearly tender, 3 to 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Two BitesContinue to cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until water has evaporated and spears are tender and beginning to brown in spots, 3 to 5 minutes. Toss with lemon juice and chives and season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a plate and cover loosely to keep warm.
Serious Eats / Two BitesFor the Crab: In now-empty skillet, lower temperature to medium and melt butter. Add garlic, stirring constantly, and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add crab and cook, stirring gently, until warmed through and coated with butter and garlic, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and gently toss with lemon juice and paprika, if using.
Serious Eats /Two BitesTo Plate and Serve: On 2 warmed serving plates, arrange asparagus in the center of each plate. Top each portion with one filet. Using a spoon, top filets with crab mixture. Spoon béarnaise over top and sprinkle each serving with about 1 tablespoon seasoned breadcrumbs right before serving.
Serious Eats / Two BitesSpecial EquipmentSmall saucepan; tall-sided cup (for blending with immersion blender); 1-cup liquid measuring cup; immersion blender; 10-inch stainless steel, cast iron, or carbon steel skillet
NotesAn equivalent total weight of bone-in or boneless ribeye, strip steak, porterhouse, T-bone, hanger, or flank steak can be used in place of filet mignon. Try to get steaks at least 1 1/2 inches thick. If using a thinner cut of steak, shorten cooking time accordingly.
The béarnaise sauce can be held warm in a double boiler over recently simmering water but off the heat. If the double boiler is left to steam unchecked, the sauce can break easily.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe breadcrumb topping can be prepared up to 2 days ahead and stored in an airtight container at room temperature.
The béarnaise sauce can be prepared up to 1 hour in advance of serving and stored in a warm place (see notes above).
Serious Eats / Vy TranLast October, on a visit home to Singapore, I listened to my aunt gush about Lana Cakes, a famed Singaporean cake shop that has been in business since 1964. Though I had never tasted their cakes, I’d heard plenty of great things about the bakery and its fudgy chocolate cake. For some of my friends, celebrating their birthdays with the popular chocolate cake was a family tradition spanning decades. Surprised that I’d never tasted this iconic treat, my aunt bought a cake for me to try. Even though it was a blisteringly hot day—temperatures in Singapore typically range from 86 to 95ºF (30 to 35ºC)—the confection was pristine. The frosting hadn’t melted and the decorative ripples in it remained immaculate.
I took a bite of the cake. Its tenderness and intense chocolate flavor surprised me: It was like eating a bar of dark chocolate, but in cake form. The frosting, in particular, made the dessert feel both familiar yet completely different from any other chocolate cake I’ve had in the past. The frosting curiously toed the line between ganache and gel: It was set enough that it did not leave a mess even when I picked up a slice with my hand, yet still managed to have a creamy, melt-in-the-mouth quality. Once I got back to the Netherlands, where I live today, I was eager to recreate the dessert in my home kitchen.
Key Techniques for Making the CakeManage the heat carefully when making the frosting . Through my testing, I found that for the best frosting, you need to bring the cornstarch, sugar, and water to a bubble—which helps the starches gelatinize—then immediately remove the pot from the heat before whisking in the gelatin and chocolate. I found that if I allowed the frosting to boil vigorously after adding the chocolate, it became stiff and grainy—not the shiny, barely-set effect of Lana Cakes’ chocolate cake. This is likely because the chocolate overheated; when the ingredient reaches 145ºF (62ºC), it begins to seize and break. The resulting frosting is just thick enough to drape over the cake, and as the mixture cools, the gelatin sets it, resulting in a pristine chocolate frosting that stays intact even in hot and humid tropical weather.
Use Dutch-process cocoa powder and coffee. To recreate the unapologetically rich and intense flavor of the dessert, I used devil’s food cake—which has a dramatically dark crumb, deep chocolate flavor, and is wonderfully tender —as my starting point. There are two broad categories of cocoa powder: natural cocoa powder and Dutch-process cocoa powder. Natural cocoa powder is naturally acidic and has a pH between five and six, but Dutch-process cocoa powder is washed with a potassium carbonate solution that neutralizes the cocoa’s pH to seven. This produces a slightly darker cocoa powder that gives baked goods, including this chocolate cake, a deeper brown hue. Here, the addition of coffee enhances the cocoa powder's fruity, bittersweet notes, resulting in a deeply chocolate-y dessert.
For the straightest edges, bake the cake in a Pullman loaf pan. Using a rectangular pan with straight edges not only replicates the look of the original Lana Cakes creation, but also creates a neat cake that’s easy to evenly level and drape in frosting. If you don’t have a Pullman loaf pan, you can use a regular 9- by 4-inch loaf pan—but because a regular loaf pan is much shorter than a Pullman loaf pan, you’ll have to remove a half cup of cake batter before baking, which will prevent the batter from spilling over the sides as it bakes. (That half cup of batter makes for a very single-serving cake. Just place it in a greased ramekin and bake until just firm to the touch, 15 to 20 minutes.)
Serious Eats / Vy TranTips for Nailing the Chocolate Pudding FrostingBloom your gelatin. Blooming gelatin—sprinkling gelatin powder over cold water so it can fully hydrate—prevents it from clumping up and helps it dissolve evenly into whatever it’s added to.
Incorporate cornstarch and gelatin into the frosting. In my research, I was surprised to learn that the frosting wasn’t a ganache or buttercream, but rather a starch-thickened one that’s prepared on the stove. To make it, you cook a mixture of cornstarch, sugar, and water until it just bubbles, then remove it from the heat and whisk in bloomed gelatin and chopped dark chocolate until smooth.
Online sources recommend using mung bean starch to prepare the cake’s frosting; the ingredient is commonly used to make kueh, little snacks and confections widely eaten throughout Southeast Asia. Since mung bean starch is not as readily available as cornstarch in many countries, including the US, I experimented with both. While the frosting made with mung bean starch was slightly lighter in texture compared to cornstarch, there were very minimal differences, and I have no hesitation in recommending cornstarch in this recipe.
For the Cake: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and preheat to 350°F (180°C). Lightly grease one 9- by 4-inch aluminum Pullman loaf pan with neutral oil and line with parchment cross-wise so that there is a 1-inch overhang on both sides. (See notes below if you do not have a Pullman loaf pan.)
Serious Eats / Vy TranIn a large bowl, whisk eggs, oil, sugar, salt, and coffee to combine. Using a fine-mesh sieve, sift flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and baking powder into egg mixture. Whisk until combined. Whisk in the crème fraîche until smooth and no streaks remain. Using a flexible spatula, scrape mixture into the prepared pan.
Serious Eats / Vy TranBake until the cake is just set and a skewer inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, 50 to 60 minutes. The cake will feel just barely set and very tender. Let cool in the pan for 20 minutes, then run an offset spatula or butter knife around the edges to loosen. Gently lift parchment to remove cake from pan, then transfer to a wire rack. Pull parchment to remove and allow cake to cool completely, about 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Vy TranFor the Frosting: In a small bowl, whisk 1 teaspoon powdered gelatin with 1 1/2 tablespoons water. Let sit until gelatin has bloomed, about 3 minutes.
Serious Eats / Vy TranIn a medium saucepan, whisk cornstarch, granulated sugar, and salt to combine. Add water, bring to a simmer over medium-low heat, and cook until mixture just begins to thicken and gel, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat, then whisk in gelatin and chocolate, stirring constantly until gelatin and chocolate have melted and mixture is smooth, 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Vy TranUsing a fine-mesh sieve, strain chocolate mixture into a medium bowl. Press plastic against surface and let cool slightly, about 5 minutes. (It should be warm and pourable, but should no longer be steaming hot.)
Serious Eats / Vy TranTo Assemble: Set cake on cutting board and, using a serrated knife, carefully remove top of cake to level it; set scraps aside for snacking or another use. Slice cake into 2 even layers. Place bottom of the cake back onto the wire rack set inside the rimmed baking sheet and top with 1/3 of the frosting, using an offset spatula to spread it evenly from edge to edge. Top with second layer of cake. Using an offset spatula, spread remaining frosting over the top and sides of the cake, letting excess drip off beneath onto wire rack.
Serious Eats / Vy TranLet cake sit on wire rack until frosting is set and does not leave any trace on your fingertips, about 30 minutes. Using a sharp chef’s knife, slice cake and serve. (For cleaner cuts, run knife under warm water and dry knife with a clean kitchen towel before portioning each slice.)
Serious Eats / Vy TranSpecial Equipment9- by 4-inch aluminum Pullman loaf pan; fine-mesh sieve, serrated knife, wire rack
NotesThis recipe was developed using a 9- by 4-inch Pullman loaf pan. If you don’t have a Pullman loaf pan, you can use a regular 9- by 4-inch loaf pan, however, because a regular loaf pan is shorter, you’ll have to remove 1/2 cup of the cake batter before baking to prevent the cake from spilling over as it bakes. You can place the remaining cake batter in a greased ramekin and bake until just firm to the touch, 15 to 20 minutes.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe cooled, unfrosted cake can be made up to 1 day in advance.
The frosting must be used immediately after it’s made, as the gelatin will set as the frosting cools and make it impossible to spread, but the frosted cake can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days or kept at room temperature for up to 1 day.
Serious Eats / Robby Lozano. Food Stylist: Julia Levy, Prop Stylist: Tucker VinesThe only thing I love more than lying in bed is someone bringing me breakfast in bed. It's a sweet gesture that sets the tone for the rest of the day: Even something as simple as two slices of buttered toast and a cup of coffee lets your significant other know you were thinking of them. Valentine's Day is the perfect opportunity to show your partner just how much you appreciate them by bringing them breakfast in bed—or if you don't want to risk the festival of crumbs and spilled coffee in bed, setting the table with a lovely breakfast. Below, we've gathered our favorite special occasion breakfasts that even late risers won't mind being woken up for, including foolproof eggs Benedict, custardy French toast, and one-bowl cinnamon rolls.
Perfect Quick-and-Easy French ToastSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergAfter making batches and batches of French toast, our editorial director Daniel landed on the ideal ratio for eggs, milk, and sugar. Custardy, moist, light, and fluffy, his French toast is truly quick and easy, and requires just a handful of pantry staples.
Perfect Microwave Poached EggsSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezWe found a faster, better way to make restaurant-worthy poached eggs—and it takes less than 10 minutes from start to finish. Serve these atop English muffins with some ham and hollandaise sauce, and you've got a restaurant-worthy eggs Benedict.
Creamy, Nutty Coffee SmoothieSerious Eats / Jen CauseyCoffee and breakfast rolled into one? Yes, please! Sweetened condensed milk lends both creaminess and sweetness to the smoothie, while almond butter adds a rich nuttiness that complements the coffee.
Foolproof Eggs BenedictSerious Eats / Julia EstradaFoolproof, stress-free eggs Benedict for breakfast in bed? If this doesn't impress your significant other, we don't know what will.
Honey-Butter ToastSerious Eats / Robby Lozano. Food Stylist: Julia Levy, Prop Stylist: Tucker VinesThis riff on brick toast is fluffy and soft on the inside, with a shatteringly crisp honey-butter exterior. Adding brown sugar to the honey-butter mixture makes the outside of the toast extra crackle, and a topping of yogurt and fresh fruit keeps the dish from being cloying.
Quiche LorraineSerious Eats / Deli StudiosQuiche Lorraine is a French classic: Filled with Gruyère cheese and smoky bacon, it's unapologetically buttery and custardy, with a tender, flaky crust. Making a quiche may seem like a daunting project, it's actually pretty simple, and can be easily made ahead.
One-Skillet Eggs in PurgatorySerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis one-skillet Southern Italian dish of eggs poached in a spicy tomato sauce is fantastic for breakfast or brunch. The rich yolks mingle with the spicy sauce, and everything gets scooped up with crusty bread.
Hong Kong-Style French ToastSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezWith a custardy interior that oozes peanut butter and a generous drizzle of condensed milk, this is the breakfast of champions. It's worth taking the time to shallow-fry the sandwich, which recreates the golden look and freshly fried flavor of classic Hong Kong French toast.
One-Bowl Overnight Cinnamon RollsSerious Eats / Julia EstradaThe magic of this recipe for overnight one-bowl cinnamon rolls ensures that all the heavy lifting is knocked out a day ahead. Prep these the night before, bake them in the morning, and your valentine will get to wake up to the smell of freshly made cinnamon rolls.
Soufflé Omelette With CheeseVicky WasikMuch simpler than a classic soufflé, this light and fluffy omelette is cooked in a skillet and requires little more than eggs, cheese, and a few extra minutes. No need to prep a soufflé dish or preheat an oven, and no need need to make a béchamel or pastry cream base.
Classic French OmelettePhotograph: Vicky Wasik. Video: Serious Eats TeamThe French omelette is the best of all possible omelettes: A tidy package of finesse and delicacy, with a smooth exterior cradling creamy, tender soft-scrambled eggs.
Buttermilk Vanilla WafflesVicky WasikThe batter for these light, crisp waffles comes together in just one bowl. Buttermilk gives the waffles a pleasantly tangy flavor, a touch of melted butter keeps the waffles tender, and sugar helps promote a golden crust.
Bakery-Style Cream Scones With Milk ChocolateVicky WasikNot a big breakfast person? How about a bakery-style scone speckled with chocolate chunks? Served with a cup of coffee, these scones
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreI didn’t know what splatter screens were until I saw a host on The Cooking Channel use one while making eggplant Parmesan. They were frying the eggplant and didn’t want to get grease everywhere, so they slapped a splatter screen over the pan. I was a burly, rough-and-tumble chef back then, and I scoffed at someone who wanted to cook but not mess up their kitchen. In my mind, if you weren’t willing to make a mess, you weren’t really cooking.
But now that I cook at home almost every night, I realize how much easier cleaning a mess in a commercial kitchen is than doing the same in your own house. The default design of restaurant kitchens makes them easy to clean—you can slop soapy water everywhere, wipe things down, and mop the industrial floor. Home kitchens require a higher level of delicacy if you don’t want to clean up after cleaning up.
To find the best splatter screens, I took 10 top-rated models into my kitchen and put them through a series of tests, including frying, sautéing, and keeping sputtering red sauce at bay.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe All-Clad splatter screen has reinforced edges for strength and longevity. It controlled grease droplets quite well and was one of the best at containing errant tomato sauce splatters.
The Le Creuset screen is on par with the All-Clad and features a silicone ring to better seal with your pan’s edge and control splatter. It performed better with oil than with tomato sauce but still ranked high among its competitors.
This features a flat silicone design that better accommodates multiple pan sizes than steel mesh screens. It controlled grease and almost wholly contained red sauce.
The BergKoch screen performed above average at a very affordable price. If you want a splatter screen but don't want to spend a lot, this is what I recommend.
The TestsWe used the splatter screens with a variety of messy, sputtering things, like fried eggs.Serious Eats / Russell Kilgore Tomato Sauce Test: I heated jarred tomato sauce in a pan and let it simmer for 15 minutes. As tomato sauce heats, it frequently launches blobs of sauce. When I turned the burner on, I covered the pan with a splatter screen and observed if any molten sauce escaped—hitting the stove, hood, counter, cabinets, or floor (or myself). After 15 minutes, I grabbed the splatter screen by its handle (if it had one) and held it for 10 seconds to see if it stayed cool. Then, I hand-washed the screen and cleaned any errant sauce up to avoid mistaken results before moving on to the next screen and repeating this test. * Fried Egg Test: I wanted to see how the splatter screens controlled popping oil. So, I fried an egg in a nonstick skillet, covering it with the screen. While the egg and oil sputtered and popped, I observed if any oil escaped and checked all nearby surfaces. * Chicken Piccata Test:* I shallow-fried chicken piccata in a cast iron skillet for the final test. I heated the pan and oil to 375°F (checked with an infrared thermometer) and added a breaded chicken cutlet, immediately covering the pan with a splatter screen. Again, I looked for errant oil pops that made it through the screen before flipping the chicken. I subsequently held the handle to check for heat and hand-washed the screen. I repeated my paper towel oil forensics and degreasing between tests.
What We LearnedUse an Appropriately Sized PanSome pans were too small to easily balance the splatter screens on top.Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe tomato sauce test gave me some initial challenges because I tried to use an 8.5-inch saucepan with an ergonomically curved handle. I couldn’t get the screens to balance on the smaller saucepan; it was even a struggle with the All-Clad, which had cutouts in the rim to fit around handles.
But when I tested them with a 10.5-inch nonstick skillet, all of the screens (except the Frywall) fit flush against the lip of the pan. There was some variation in screen diameters, but, for the most part, the size difference wasn’t big enough to be noticeable.
Most Splatter Screens Were Built the SamePretty much all of the splatter screens we tested were made of a mesh circle with a metal rim around it and a handle.Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWith a couple of exceptions, all the splatter screens I tested were variations on the same design. Setting the two outliers aside, each screen had a circular frame with wire mesh or perforated metal spanning the frame’s diameter. The handles were either bare stainless steel or silicone-coated stainless. Two models, from Le Creuset and OXO, had folding handles, which I found helpful for storage.
Now for the outliers: The silicone splatter screen from Williams Sonoma was still technically a circle with mesh that sat on top of a pan, but the mesh was silicone with large perforations, and the screen lacked a handle. The Frywall was a conical band of silicone that fit inside the pan rather than resting on top. I recommend the former but not the latter, but I'll get into why soon.
No Screen Prevented All SplatterReally greasy, sputtering things made splatter inevitable in some cases.Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWhat these screens do is minimize splatter, but they don’t keep them from happening. I tested an array of mesh sizes from fine to large, and I can't say fine mesh prevented grease splatters better than large mesh. There was a film of grease on my counter after making chicken piccata with all the screens. Likewise, there were tomato sauce splatters. But I know what my stovetop and counters look like when I cook without one, and cleanup was much easier after using any of these screens.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Splatter ScreenSerious Eats / Russell KilgoreA splatter screen should significantly reduce splatter and sit flush with cookware. Most of the splatter screens performed well in my tests and what you should focus on are the size, handle type, and price. The largest screen I tested measured 21.5 inches, including the handle. Storing something of that size can be challenging, even if you hang it on a wall or rack. To that end, some screens had folding handles that helped minimize storage needs. Did the $9 BergKoch perform as well as the $72 All-Clad, and can you expect similar longevity from the two? No, but the BergKoch held its own, and you might get a few years out of it. In that sense, the best splatter screen also depends on how much you want to spend.
Our Favorite Splatter ScreensWhat we liked: The All-Clad was the most expensive of the lot, but it also had some cool features that expanded its usefulness and longevity. First, it had a 1.5-inch stainless steel rim around the screen, which provided extra strength and helped prevent tearing. A half-inch lip descends from the screen’s outer edge, with cutouts for pan handles that allow the screen to sit flush against the pan’s rim. It did the best job overall of containing splatters and messes out of all the screens I tested.
What we didn’t like: Well, it's certainly expensive (about 20% more than its closest competitor). I can’t argue with the design or the performance, but this is a splatter screen designed for people who want to make an investment.
Key Specs Screen diameter: 13 inches * Handle length: 7.5 inches * Material(s): Stainless steel * Mesh size: Fine * Dishwasher-safe:* Yes
What we liked: Like the All-Clad, this splatter screen is highly engineered and made of quality materials. It has a 1.5-inch stainless steel rim for reinforcement and a silicone band around the bottom edge to improve its seal with cookware, reducing wayward splatters. Its angled, 8.5-inch handle provided an ergonomic grip and folded flat against the screen for easier storage. It performed best in the oily tests, with no splatters when cooking eggs and only the finest film of oil on the stovetop after frying chicken.
What we didn’t like: It eventually let a small amount of tomato sauce splatter onto the stovetop near the 10-minute mark.
Key Specs Screen diameter: 12.75 inches * Handle length: 8.5 inches * Material(s): Stainless steel, silicone * Mesh size: Fine * Dishwasher-safe:* Yes
What we liked: This splatter screen plays off of the traditional design—it’s round and has a mesh of sorts. The perforated silicone has reinforced edges and is hinged in the center, allowing you to fold it for easy storage. One of the benefits of having no handle is that the screen sits flush on smaller pans without any wobbling.
What we didn’t like: There was no handle, and the silicone in contact with the pan got hot. The holes were wide and allowed some tomato sauce to burble through. Each of the holes has a raised, flared tip on either side of the screen, and those raised knobs made it difficult to clean.
Key Specs Screen diameter: 13.5 inches * Handle length: No handle * Material(s): Silicone * Hole size: Large * Dishwasher-safe:* Yes
What we liked: Price doesn’t always equal performance. At first glance, I looked at the BergKoch and thought, “Oh, you don’t stand a chance, you poor thing.” While a couple of splatter screens that didn’t make my winners list rated slightly higher, it was by a fraction of a point, and the BergKoch was lower in price. It contained grease very well, with no apparent residue on the stove. The silicone-coated handle stayed cool, too, and it was easy to clean.
What we didn’t like: This screen didn’t perform as well in the tomato sauce test. I got some splatter on my stove and cabinets, but I can forgive this given the BergKoch's otherwise performance and its price.
Key Specs Screen diameter: 15 inches * Handle length: 6.5 inches * Material(s): Stainless steel, silicone * Mesh size: Fine * Dishwasher-safe:* Yes
The CompetitionAlso Recommended* OXO Good Grips Stainless Steel Splatter Screen: This splatter screen has a cool design, with ridges that ostensibly accommodate smaller-diameter pans, allowing the screen to sit flush. The medium mesh was a little abrasive—like a really dull cheese grater—and took chunks out of my sponge when I washed it. It did a good job of containing splatters but picking little blue pieces of cellulose out of the mesh after washing took it out of the running for me. That said, associate editorial director Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm has owned this screen for years and says it's held up. * U.S. Kitchen Supply 13 Inch Stainless Steel Fine Mesh Splatter Screen: I have nothing negative to say about this splatter screen. It was fine; it just didn’t stand out.
Not Recommended* Lodge 13-Inch Splatter Screen: This splatter screen didn’t make the list because of a weight problem. I had a hard time balancing the screen on a 10.5-inch skillet because the 7.5-inch handle threw it off. There was a gap between the pan and screen opposite the screen’s handle that let grease escape and accumulate on my stovetop. * Frywall 12: The Frywall isn’t a splatter screen per se. It’s a silicone cone that sits around the interior edges of the pan’s bottom and provides a “wall” to contain grease and splatters. It’s much like a “cone of shame” one puts on their pet to keep them from picking at wounds. I fought with this thing from the get-go. It was a floppy silicone ring that wouldn’t stay upright without some prodding and heat application. I could use it in just two of the tests because it only fits pans with a 12-inch internal diameter (that’s on me, not them), and molten blobs of tomato sauce shot up and over the top, hitting my hood, cabinets, stove, foot, and floor. * KitchenAid Gourmet Odor Absorbing Splatter Screen: The KitchenAid splatter screen did well in the first two tests but warped when I set it on the cast iron pan for the chicken piccata test, which provided an easy exit for grease. * HIC Kitchen Splatter Screen: This is a perfectly adequate screen for the price, but I found a fine oily mist on my stovetop after the egg and piccata tests. It also eventually allowed some tomato sauce to escape and accumulate on the stove.
FAQsCan you put a splatter screen in the dishwasher?Every splatter screen I tested was dishwasher-safe. Check your manufacturer’s care suggestions before assuming your splatter screen is, though.
How do you clean a splatter screen?Splatter screens are easy to clean, but given the tasks we subject them to, they might require extra care. The first, most obvious method for cleaning them is to put them in the dishwasher, provided your screen is dishwasher-safe. But in the tomatoey, oily environments I subjected the splatter screens to, hand-washing was a necessary first step. Grease or tomato sauce can accumulate around the edges where the screen meets solid material, where the handle meets the screen, and for those with hinged handles, in or under the hinges. Scrubbing these areas with hot, soapy water is always a good idea to extend your splatter screen’s lifespan,
How do you use a splatter screen?Splatter screens are great for containing bubbly sauces or popping oil and couldn’t be simpler to use. Just place the screen on top of your pot or pan while cooking. Remove it to stir, turn, or flip food, and replace the screen until cooking's done.
Why We’re the Experts* Greg Baker is a multi-time James Beard Award-nominated former chef from Tampa, Florida. * He’s reviewed electric knives, coolers, non-alcoholic beer, and more for Serious Eats. * Greg purposely got to cook sloppily for this piece while testing 10 splatter screens.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSometimes you have the desire for a homemade cake, but not one shred of desire to turn on the oven, grease cake pans, and pull out the stand mixer to make batter. Sometimes there's no one else around and it's only yourself you've got to please. Sometimes you just want cake now—like within the next five minutes.
This molten chocolate mug cake is designed for those “must have cake now” moments in life: Toss some flour, cocoa, baking powder, sugar, butter, and chocolate into a mug (a 12-ounce microwave-safe one please), stir it up, zap it in the microwave, and you've got a warm and gooey single serving of chocolatey cake waiting to be devoured.
Don't turn up your nose at the microwave for baking a cake. Cooking with a microwave may not feel as fancy as firing up your conventional oven to make dessert, but these little boxes can be handy when you're short on time (or, let’s be honest, motivation). As discussed in our article on how microwaves work, the appliances operate by firing electromagnetic radiation at your food. These waves effectively target the food's internal water molecules, agitating them at a rate that produces enough friction to generate heat and evaporate water.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe problem is that the waves can’t penetrate much deeper than about an inch or two into food. What’s more, microwaves hit foods in an unpredictable pattern, so some parts will cook faster than others. Microwave ovens use turntables to help even out cooking to some degree, but another way to help even cooking is to just cook in smaller portions to ensure the heat penetrates through.
This warm and fudgy chocolate cake with a molten center is just the kind of dessert that's perfectly adaptable to the microwave. It doesn’t need the benefits of oven-baking: It’s not supposed to be browned or crispy at the edges, it's not meant to be flipped out of a pan and portioned into perfect slices. It's meant to be enjoyed warm by the spoonful—like a mini soufflé or an oven-baked chocolate lava cake. It won’t have the same perfect fluffy tender crumb structure that an oven-baked cake would—it’s intended to be soft, moist, plush, and molten, which a microwave can do very well.
As the cake cooks in the microwave it bubbles and puffs just as it would in the oven, and just as it starts to set (it'll still be jiggly), it's done—in a mere two minutes. For this fudgy version with a molten center, microwaving the cake at 50% power keeps it moist and tender, and tucking a few pieces of chocolate inside partway through creates its ooey-gooey center.
This cake is so simple to prepare that you could even double the recipe and microwave two mugs at once for a quick, warm, à la minute dessert for two. Top it off with a dollop of whipped cream or a scoop of ice cream. Maybe my favorite part of the recipe is that it requires almost no equipment to prep—just one small bowl and one mug. It’s easy to prepare and even easier to clean up, so you can focus on every single chocolatey bite.
In a small bowl, whisk flour, sugar, cocoa, baking powder, and salt together. To a 12-ounce mug, add half of chocolate pieces with butter. Microwave butter and chocolate pieces at 50% power, stirring every 30 seconds, until melted, 1 to 2 minutes. (See notes regarding microwave power below.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd flour mixture, egg, and vanilla and using a fork, thoroughly mix until smooth and well combined (being sure to scrape corners of mug).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMicrowave cake batter at 50% power until batter has doubled in size, 50 to 70 seconds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPress remaining chocolate pieces into center of cake until top of chocolate pieces are flush with top of cake. Microwave cake at 50% power until cake is firm but top is just wet and tacky to the touch, 15 to 30 seconds (cake may rise above edge of mug, but should not overflow). Let cake rest for 2 minutes. Serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment12-ounce microwave-safe mug, microwave
NotesI developed this recipe in a full-size 1,000-watt microwave. If the wattage of your microwave is less than or greater than 1,000 watts, you will need to increase or decrease the cooking times throughout to reach the visual cues. I recommend writing down the cooking time once you've dialed it in for your particular microwave.
I prefer bar chocolate (milk, dark, or bittersweet), as chocolate chips are harder to insert into the cake to form the molten center, but chocolate chips will do in a pinch.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe mug cake is best enjoyed immediately.
Serious EatsAs someone who spends my working hours testing kitchen tools to see if they’re worth their salt—like this portable espresso maker or Ninja Crispi air fryer—I know exactly what’s worth grabbing at Amazon’s Presidents Day sale. If you’re ready to usher a more powerful blender or the most efficient hard cooler into your life, I’ve found the best kitchen-related Presidents Day deals. The finds include a Yeti Rambler tumbler, Le Creuset Dutch oven, Breville espresso machine, and more for up to 40% off.
The Best Presidents Day Sale Kitchen Deals at a Glance The Best Hard Cooler: Yeti Roadie 48 Wheeled Cooler * Another Great Hard Cooler: Yeti Tundra 45 Cooler * The Best Soft Cooler: Yeti Hopper Flip 12 Portable Soft Cooler * A Beginner-Friendly Espresso Machine: Breville Barista Express Impress Espresso Machine * An Editor-Favorite Travel Mug: Yeti Rambler Tumbler Mug with Straw Lid * The Most Powerful Blender: Vitamix 5200 Blender * Our Longtime Favorite Dutch Oven: Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron 5.5-Quart Dutch Oven * A Versatile, Long Griddle: Lodge Reversible Griddle * The Best Affordable Coffee Grinder: OXO Brew Conical Burr Coffee Grinder * The Best Stand Mixer for Everyday Bakers: KitchenAid Artisan Series 5-Quart Tilt-Head Stand Mixer * The Best Carbon Steel Pan:* Yosukata Carbon Steel Wok Pan
Yeti Roadie 48 Wheeled CoolerAmazonYeti’s Roadie wheeled cooler has been on my wish list for some time, and now that it’s $60 off, I might have to commit. As someone whose arm strength is a bit lacking, I like that this cooler would allow me to wheel my food and drinks. After testing 11 top-selling coolers, it came out as our top pick thanks to its excellent temperature retention and generous capacity that can keep up to 76 cans cold for days.
Serious EatsYeti Tundra 45 CoolerAmazonThe classic Tundra 45 offers the same thick-walled insulation as other Yeti coolers and can retain cold temperatures for up to 60 hours. While it offers less storage capacity (45 quarts), I like that its compact size makes it ideal for shorter excursions.
Yeti Hopper Flip 18 Portable Soft CoolerAmazonMy no-name brand soft cooler that’s held on for years is finally showing some wear and tear, so I’m considering this Yeti Hopper Flip that aced all our soft cooler tests. It survived being pushed out the back of a truck and fits up to 18 cans alongside packed ice. Light and comfortable to carry, it’s ideal for picnics, beach days, or backyard hangouts.
Serious EatsBreville Barista Express Impress Espresso MachineWalmartBreville makes several of our favorite espresso machines, but the Barista Express Impress certainly stands out as a user-friendly option for beginners and enthusiasts alike. I don’t yet own a home espresso machine, so I’ve been eyeing this one from our review ever since we started recommending it over four years ago. It has an integrated grinder, tamping lever, and steam wand, making the espresso-pulling process as straightforward as possible for anyone in need of a cappuccino.
Serious EatsYeti Rambler Tumbler Mug with Straw LidAmazonWhile my cupboard has a fair share of Yeti drinkware, from a stackable coffee mug to an insulated water bottle, I’m missing a Rambler travel mug with a straw lid. It scored high marks during our tumbler tests thanks to its impeccable insulation and compatibility with universal car cup holders. Right now, it’s on sale for $36.
Serious EatsVitamix 5200 BlenderAmazonI can’t emphasize enough how essential a robust blender is in the kitchen. For all my bisques, sauces, and smoothies, I use a countertop blender similar to our tested favorite, the Vitamix 5200. The 5200 thoroughly blends fibrous ingredients into creamy purées, and its motor can handle blending hot soups at high speeds for minutes at a time. It’s on sale for $150 off.
Serious EatsLe Creuset Enameled Cast Iron 5.5-Quart Dutch OvenAmazonSales are also a great time to shop for gifts. With a few spring and summer weddings coming up this year, I’m eyeing our favorite Le Creuset Dutch oven to potentially give to a good friend. It’s an heirloom-quality piece of cookware that’ll last through generations of cooking. The sturdy cast iron sears foods to a golden brown, and the enamel interior resists staining. It’s rarely under $300, so now’s the time to grab one.
Serious EatsLodge Reversible GriddleAmazonI’m pretty outspoken about my love for Lodge’s reversible griddle, which doubles as a grill when flipped. It’s my go-to for making large batches of pancakes and English muffins or for grilling vegetable skewers indoors. Plus, it’s only $35.
Serious EatsOXO Brew Conical Burr Coffee GrinderAmazonThis is the most affordable burr grinder we tested that still delivers excellent grind quality. It’s now even cheaper at $72 and well worth grabbing if you’ve been grinding your coffee with a spice mill. Its dial control is easy to read and won’t take up much space on your counter.
Serious EatsKitchenAid Artisan Series 5-Quart Tilt-Head Stand MixerAmazonAt $100 off, this KitchenAid stand mixer is our recommended model for everyday casual bakers. It’s able to cream butter, whip egg whites, and even knead pizza dough without struggling. I’ve had mine for over five years, and it’s still kneading brioche dough like a champ.
Serious EatsYosukata Carbon Steel Wok PanAmazonFor less than $60, this carbon steel wok comes pre-seasoned and ready to bring the wok hei to your stir-fried noodles. Its heat-responsive, slick surface releases eggs without a problem, and the wooden handle stays cool throughout cooking.
Serious EatsCuisinart 14-Cup Food ProcessorAmazonThis food processor efficiently slices vegetables, grates cheese, and kneads dough. I’ve used my own Cuisinart to make heaps of breadcrumbs for eggplant katsu or shredded carrots for carrot cake. The two-button controls allow me to easily switch between pulsing and continuous processing. The generous 14-cup capacity ensures I can make a large batch of anything I want.
Serious EatsRubbermaid Brilliance Food Storage Containers, Set of 5AmazonI almost always reach for my Rubbermaid Brilliance food containers first when I’m putting away leftovers, which tells me I should grab this set of five containers now that they’re on sale for Presidents Day. The clear plastic doesn’t take on odors or smells, even if I store curry in them. During our tests, they proved themselves to be truly airtight, not leaking even once.
Serious EatsCuckoo Micom 6-Cup Rice CookerAmazonMy rice cooker is called into action multiple times a week to make fluffy rice in the background while I work on a stir-fry or curry. This similar Cuckoo rice cooker is one of our favorites thanks to its many programmable settings: white rice, brown rice, mixed rice, porridge, and steam.
Serious EatsMicroplane Premium Classic Series ZesterAmazonMy Microplane zester is an undersung hero in my kitchen. It barely takes up any space in the drawer, yet it can add a boost of flavor to any dish by producing delicate curls of parmesan or light flakes of lemon zest. My grater from Microplane happens to be our tested favorite, too. It cleans up quickly, and the blade still hasn’t dulled after many years of use.
Serious EatsMade In Cookware 3-Piece Stainless Steel Skillet SetAmazonI only own a Made In saucepan, but this sale on the brand’s three-piece stainless steel skillet set has me doing a double take. I’ve loved using the saucepan thanks to its even heating across the cooking surface and comfortable handle, and our skillet tests showed that the frying pans offer the same features.
Peugeot Paris u'Select Manual Pepper MillAmazonThis pepper mill efficiently grinds peppercorns and is well-designed enough to stay out on the dining table. The curved wooden body offers a stable grip while grinding, and the consistent grind ensures no stray chunks of peppercorn land in your foods. During our tests, its clearly marked size settings and its speedy grinding made it a top pick.
Serious EatsWhy We’re the Experts* An Uong is a writer for Serious Eats. * An has been testing kitchen gear for Serious Eats for over two years. * This Presidents Day, she’s thinking of finally grabbing a new set of dry food storage containers for her many flours.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI'm admittedly narrow-minded when it comes to lobster: I want to eat them whole, shelling them at the table, and dipping the meat in drawn butter, or I want a lobster roll. Almost no other lobster preparation interests me nearly as much because I want as little as possible to get between me and my lobster. But I'm opening my mind to lobster thermidor, the old-school French preparation that dates back to the late 1890s and is named for a controversial play called Thermidor that dramatizes the end of the Reign of Terror during the French Revolution. And if I'm being totally frank (and not totally modest), the biggest breakthrough in my enjoyment of lobster thermidor has to do with how I make it—reinforced with a quick and easy lobster stock so that every bite is an explosion of lobster flavor.
There isn't any one "official" recipe for lobster thermidor, and the specifics of how it's made have changed over both time and place, with French versions differing slightly from American interpretations. If I were to try to define it, it'd be something like this: Halved lobsters that are stuffed with their own cooked meat, which has been dressed in a creamy, roux-based sauce featuring some kind of stock, cheese, a dash of mustard, plus other flavorings.
Lobster thermidor shares similarities with other French and French-inspired lobster dishes like lobster à l’Américaine, Newburg, cardinal, and mornay, but if I were to try to sketch out the details that collectively distinguish it in one way or another from the rest, they are:
- The presence of mustard in thermidor sauce, which the others typically lack
- The presence of cheeses like Gruyère and Parmesan, which cardinal, Newburg, and à l’Américaine lack
- Less tomato than the typical sauce in à l’Américaine
- The final gratinée (broiling) step, which not all of the others share
It's not clear-cut, and you can find renditions that break one or more of the rules above, but generally speaking, if the dish has lobster broiled in its shell, and includes mustard and cheese in a roux-based sauce, it's probably thermidor.
Now let's talk about that cheese.
Seafood Plus Cheese? Yes, PleaseThere's a rule of thumb in Italian cooking that says seafood and cheese should never be combined. You have to love the French for gleefully thumbing their noses across the border with dishes like this, which unapologetically blend not just Alpine cheese in the form of Gruyère but also Italian cheese in the form of Parmigiano-Reggiano with the shellfish. And you know what? It's great.
I can imagine that there are more than a few people out there, some possibly reading this right now, who have accepted the Italian no-cheese rule as some kind of semi-religious doctrine. I would recommend they consider that this isn't a rule that needs to be absolute, and while it's advisable to approach the combination of seafood and cheese with caution—because, yes, they often do clash—they can also work well together. Even in Italy the rule is at times broken; for example, Sicilian involtini di pesce spada (swordfish rolled with seasoned breadcrumbs) is sometimes made with pecorino.
Lobster thermidor is a recipe where the cheese, which is both melted into the sauce (mornay-style) and also grated on top for the final broiling, adds richness and depth.
Go Big or Go HomeSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezI, as a self-proclaimed human garbage can, am not a good measure of how much food is "enough." Case in point: At the photo shoot for this recipe, I told everyone it served two. My colleagues looked at the platter of overflowing lobster, then back at me, then back at the platter, with clear concern for my judgement. Okay, I allowed, it can probably also serve four.
Let me be clear: This recipe definitely serves four. (Ah, a moment of personal clarity around serving portions, it's nice on those rare occasions when it happens.) Does that mean two very hungry, very passionate lovers of lobster couldn't eat all of this in one sitting? I know I could, but I'm me, and I'm weird and probably not who you should be basing this kind of decision on.
Even if you love eating lobster as much as I do, you can still probably share this recipe four ways, and that's because—lobster glutton that I am—I pack three lobsters' worth of meat into the two split shells, which is one lobster more than I've ever seen any other thermidor recipe do (even when they serve four!). I have a couple very legitimate reasons for this that extend beyond my own penchant for eating.
First, a third lobster provides us with extra shell, which I put to good use by making a quick lobster stock that significantly improves this dish. That alone is a worthy reason. Second, if you do split this recipe four ways, that extra little dose of meat from the third lobster gives each serving a pile of meat that feels generous and gratifying, not skimpy, which is important for a dish that feels so triumphantly celebratory.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis does, of course, increase the cost of the dish, since you'll be buying three lobsters instead of two, but that third lobster can be a less expensive one. Instead of the heftier 1 1/2–pound lobsters for the main two whose shells will be used for serving, the third lobster can be a smaller one-pounder, and it can even be a cull (the name for a lobster missing a claw), which lowers the price even more.
Look, this isn't an everyday kind of recipe, and it's not an inexpensive one. If we're gonna do it, let's do it right.
Make a Stock for Enhanced Lobster FlavorSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezJust to back up for one moment, the sauce in lobster thermidor that is used to dress the meat is something like a mornay-velouté hybrid. I know I'm tossing around a lot of French cuisine jargon, so I'll break it down: Both mornay sauce and velouté are roux-based sauces, meaning they're thickened with a cooked paste of fat and flour. In the case of mornay, the roux thickens milk, just like béchamel, but then cheese (typically Gruyère) is melted in; another way to say that is mornay is a bèchamel sauce with cheese melted into it. Velouté is just like a bèchamel as well, except instead of milk, the liquid added to the roux is usually some kind of stock or broth; velouté doesn't traditionally have cheese. Thermidor blends all of that together: a broth that's thickened with a roux and finished with cheese, plus the mustard that is another defining element.
Most recipes I've seen for lobster thermidor offhandedly call for some kind of fumet (fish stock) or shellfish broth to make the thermidor sauce. This is a missed opportunity, and it's where I'm cutting my own path for more lobster flavor.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezGiven that I'm sitting on a small mountain of lobster shells, especially from that extra lobster I've added for its meat, there's no reason not to make a quick, rich lobster stock with them. It doesn't take long: cook some shallots, garlic, and celery in oil, add the lobster shells and sear them, stir in a little tomato paste for umami depth and a richer red color, then deglaze first with brandy or sherry, then additional water. It all gets simmered for just a bit until we have a flavorful stock, then strained. At that point it's ready for the thermidor sauce.
I can't understate the effect this lobster stock has on the recipe. Instead of a less-focused, vaguely seafoody sauce to toss the chunks of lobster meat in, this sauce doubles down on the lobster flavor. The best way to describe it is to imagine a mayo-dressed lobster roll, but instead of mayonnaise, imagine a sauce that's similarly creamy but warm, savory, and tasting even more deeply of lobster than the meat itself. Honestly, there's a strong argument for making this recipe and stuffing the warmed dressed thermidor meat into a buttered and griddled split bun instead of the leftover shells. I could see lobster stock–spiked thermidor lobster rolls selling like absolute hot cakes.
Funny how I wound my way back to my preferred ways of eating lobster—now I'm dreaming of lobster rolls again. But this time, thermidor is on the menu.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOn a work surface, kill each lobster by pressing the tip of a heavy chef's knife in the crack just behind the eyes in the center of the carapace, pressing down to split the head in half.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPrepare an ice bath in a large mixing bowl. Place a steamer insert in the bottom of a large lidded stock pot and add 1-inch of water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then steam lobsters, covered, until just cooked through, about 9 minutes. (This slightly shorter cooking time may not cook all the tomalley or roe inside the lobster, if the lobster has roe, but will produce more tender meat for this recipe.) Immediately transfer lobsters to ice bath and let cool, about 4 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAs soon as lobster is cool, split the lobsters lengthwise through the middle. Using a spoon, gently remove any tomalley and roe, if present, and save for another use or discard. Remove stomach (a small sac located in the carapace behind the lobster's eyes) and discard.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBeing careful not to break apart the halved lobster shells, remove the tail meat and transfer to a medium bowl. Carefully twist lobster claws and knuckles from bodies, again taking care not to break apart the body shells. Using kitchen shears, lobster crackers, and/or the back of a heavy cleaver, crack claws and knuckles and remove meat, transferring it to the bowl with the lobster tails; transfer claw and knuckle shells to a bowl and set aside. On a work surface, cut lobster meat into large chunks, then return to bowl. Cover lobster meat and transfer to refrigerator.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezArrange the 4 lobster shell halves from the 2 larger lobsters on a rimmed baking sheet; cover and refrigerate. Cut up the remaining shells and body of the smaller lobster and transfer to the bowl with the claw shells (these shells will be used in the stock).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Lobster Stock: In a large saucepan or 4- or 5-quart Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add shallots, garlic, and celery and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 3 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd reserved lobster shells and cook, stirring, until the ingredients begin to brown on the bottom the pot, about 4 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Add brandy and cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pot, until some of the raw alcohol smell is gone, about 2 minutes. Add water and tarragon sprigs and cook, stirring occasionally, until stock is flavorful and liquid is reduced by about half, about 20 minutes. (Note: Your liquid will likely not cover all the shells; for this quick stock, that is OK, just give it a stir from time to time.) Strain, discarding solids and reserving lobster stock.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Lobster Thermidor: In a 2- or 3-quart sauté pan or saucier, melt butter over medium-heat heat. Add shallot and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in flour and cayenne and cook until raw flour smell has cooked off, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhisk in 1 cup reserved lobster stock, adding it in small additions and whisking out lumps as you go to ensure a smooth sauce. Then whisk in cream and mustard. Add Gruyère cheese and cook, stirring or whisking constantly, until fully melted. Remove from heat. Stir in tarragon and season with salt and pepper to taste. Scrape thermidor sauce into a heatproof container, press plastic directly against its surface to prevent a skin from forming, and let cool in the refrigerator.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen ready to cook, position oven rack about 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Remove lobster meat from refrigerator and drain any accumulated liquid. Stir cooled thermidor sauce into lobster meat.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMound dressed lobster meat into reserved body shells along their entire length from tail to head. Sprinkle with additional grated Gruyère cheese and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Broil until heated through and browned on top; if surface browns before lobster meat is warmed through, switch off the broiler, turn the oven to 350°F (175°C) and continue to cook until warmed through.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCarefully transfer stuffed lobster shells to plates and serve with lemon wedges.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNotesThe smaller lobster is to provide a little additional meat to make this an extra-special meal, which is what it should be. Plus, that smaller lobster yields shells for making the stock. If you want, you can try to get a cull, which is a lobster that has lost one of its claws; they're even cheaper and will still work just fine for this purpose.
Special EquipmentLarge soup or stock pot (for steaming lobsters); Dutch oven or soup pot (for stock); saucepan or saucier (for thermidor sauce)
Make-Ahead and StorageAll components can be made up to 1 day in advance and refrigerated separately in airtight containers: the cooked lobsters and meat; the stock; the thermidor sauce. If desired, the recipe can be prepared all the way through stuffing the shells with the dressed meat, then refrigerated until ready to cook/broil. Top with grated cheeses just before broiling.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn the past, I have waxed poetically about my passion for pistachio cream, the sweet, spreadable nut butter that I fell in love with after coming across it at a specialty foods store last year. Ever since, the nutty green spread has had a regular place in my cupboard and I have found numerous uses for it even beyond my initial list of ways to use pistachio cream.
My latest pistachio cream love includes pistachio in yet another form—milk. On its own pistachio milk tastes wonderful: nutty and earthy, with just a touch of sweetness. I love it in coffee and tea, and could easily drink it cold right out of the carton, but it’s even better when warmed with white chocolate, mixed with pistachio cream, and topped with a foamy layer of cold cream for the best version of a white hot chocolate you could imagine.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhat Is Pistachio Milk?Pistachio milk is a plant-based milk alternative made from blending pistachios with water. Commercially produced pistachio milks also sometimes include added vitamins, as well as emulsifiers to mimic the creamy consistency of dairy milk and make them shelf-stable. It has a warm nutty flavor that’s richer than almond milk, but not as creamy as cashew milk. It’s a little sweet and has a toasty aftertaste.
This beige-green beverage could not be mistaken for cow's milk visually or otherwise—rather than mimicking dairy milk, like some other milk subs, it has a personality that's all its own. It’s not hiding in the background, and you’ll notice its subtle nutty flavor when you add it to any dish or drink. There aren’t many brands of pistachio milk on the market right now—Tache and Elmhurst are two brands to look for—but I’m willing to bet that will change in the near future.
For the Richest Hot Chocolate, Add Pistachio CreamRecently, I had the idea to combine pistachio milk with my other great pistachio love, pistachio cream. I somehow managed to hold onto half a container of Pistacchiosa brand pistachio cream (usually it lasts less than a week), and thought this would make a wonderful dessert beverage. I’ve often added Nutella to my hot chocolate, so why not pistachio cream? Be mindful of the pistachio cream you use for this, and definitely taste it on its own before adding to your drink. Brands can vary greatly in sweetness and can sometimes contain quite a bit of added salt, so you might need to adjust the amount of the salt used in the drink to suit your personal taste, or omit the salt completely.
Selecting the White Chocolate I’ll admit, I’ve never been a lover of white chocolate, even though it does have a very valuable place in the dessert world. The white chocolate in this recipe is subtle enough that it does not distract from the flavor of the pistachios, but it does have benefits: It thickens the hot chocolate and adds to the creaminess and sweetness of the pistachio milk. Before you yell at me to say that white chocolate isn’t even chocolate, know that you’d be wrong—it is derived from cacao. You can read more about it in our white chocolate taste test.
Make sure to use a good quality bar of white chocolate and avoid white chocolate chips, which are often overly sweet and contain emulsifiers and hydrogenated oils that help the chips retain their shape in cookies but can keep them from melting smoothly. The result could be an oil slick on top of your beverage and a saccharin coating on the back of your throat.
The Case for Cold Foam on Hot ChocolateCould you top this hot chocolate with basic whipped cream? Yes, and I have, but I don’t love the way whipped cream floats atop the beverage like a separate entity. I wanted a subtle topping that added texture, without distracting from the drink. The solution was making my own cold foam. Cold foam’s silky, delicate micro air bubbles really elevate this beverage. I’m such a fan of cold foam that I occasionally, gasp, stop in Starbucks to try their latest cold foam concoction. I’ll often even ask the barista to add cold foam to my hot drinks, which is how I had the inspiration to use it here. I assumed there’s some chemical additive required to achieve a luscious cold foam, but it turns out it’s actually easy to make cold foam at home with a frother, an immersion blender, or even a personal blender and some half-and-half. It takes just seconds to whip up your half-and-half into foamy, super-soft peaks. Once you reach that point, the bubble will begin to deflate, so don’t overblend. The bubbly layer of foam flows like a frothy blanket, adding a wonderful contrast to your hot beverage.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
Together these few ingredients come together to create a smooth and luscious drink that will warm you from the inside out.
For the Hot Chocolate: In a small saucepan, bring pistachio milk to a simmer over medium heat. Add white chocolate and whisk constantly until chocolate is melted, about 1 minute. Turn off heat.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOff heat, whisk in pistachio cream until well combined. Taste and season with salt if desired. Set aside while preparing cold foam.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Cold Foam: In a small jar or measuring cup, use a hand-held milk frother or immersion blender to whisk half-and-half until light and airy like sea foam and just barely flowing, 30 to 60 seconds. Alternatively, use a personal blender and pulse for a few seconds until light and airy.
Pour pistachio hot chocolate into 2 mugs and top with cold foam. Serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezVariationTurn this into a latte by adding a shot of your favorite espresso to your pistachio white hot chocolate before topping with the cold foam.
Special EquipmentSmall saucepan, whisk, hand-held milk frother, immersion blender, or personal blender
NotesPistachio cream is available at most major retailers and Italian specialty stores, usually located near the other nut butters and spreads. I recommend looking for a spread that uses pistachios from Sicily, such as Pisti or Pistacchiosa.
Make-Ahead and StorageThis pistachio white hot chocolate is best enjoyed immediately.
Serious Eats / Qi AiValentine's Day and chocolate have gone hand in hand since at least the 1840s, when brothers Richard and George Cadbury began selling chocolates in heart-shaped boxes for Valentine's Day, establishing a tradition that remains today. If you've forgotten to purchase an elegant box of chocolates for your loved one, it's not too late to make something from scratch. Below, we've gathered our favorite chocolate dessert recipes—including an airy soufflé, flourless chocolate cake, and creamy pot de crèmes—that are as easy as they are delicious, and guaranteed to impress your significant other.
Chocolate Pot de CrèmesSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezChocolate pot de crèmes—rich, velvety French custards—are easy enough to make on a weeknight, and luxurious enough for a special occasion like Valentine’s Day. Using a bittersweet chocolate with about 70% cocoa prevents the dessert from being cloyingly sweet, while a mixture of whole milk, heavy cream, and egg yolks produces a rich custard.
2-Ingredient Chocolate TrufflesSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezWater and chocolate are all you need to make this luxurious dark chocolate ganache, which you can use to glaze cakes or fill pastries or turn into truffles.
Chocolate MousseSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezRich with bittersweet flavor and light as a cloud, chocolate mousse is a simple, elegant dessert. This method is foolproof: Melting chocolate together with the cream stabilizes the chocolate and prevents it from seizing. It also lightens up the chocolate mixture, making it easier to fold together with the egg whites without deflating the mixture.
Chocolate SouffléSerious Eats / Vicky WasikMaking a light, airy soufflé isn't as difficult as it sounds: All you have to do is liberally butter and sugar your ramekins, melt your chocolate properly, and whip your egg whites well. While many soufflés are served with a sauce poured inside, this one stays moist enough on the inside that it's not entirely necessary.
Chocolate Mayonnaise CakeSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineMade with flour, cocoa powder, sugar, and a few other pantry staples, this cake has a moist, tender crumb and rich chocolate flavor.
Red Velvet BrowniesSerious Eats / Hannah HuffmanTopped with a tangy frosting, laced with bittersweet cocoa powder, and flavored with rich white chocolate, these brownies taste like a fudgier version of classic red velvet cake. Plus: You don’t have to bake, stack, and frost an entire cake.
Flourless Chocolate Lava CakesSerious Eats / Qi AiThese molten chocolate lava cakes take just 30 minutes to make—and taste just like a pastry chef made them.
Homemade Hot Chocolate MixVicky WasikDon't feel like cooking? Homemade hot chocolate is a perfectly acceptable dessert. White chocolate brings richness, body, and aroma, and its sweetness balances the bitterness of Dutch cocoa powder.
Chocolate Skillet Cake With Milk Chocolate Ganache FrostingSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeThis chocolate cake topped with milk chocolate frosting couldn't be easier. The batter for the cake is made in the skillet it's baked in, and the easy, creamy frosting is made by hand—no mixer needed.
Devil's Food CakeVicky WasikThe most delicious chocolate cake also happens to be the easiest: No stand mixer, no whipping, no foamed eggs, no meringue, nothing. In other words, the perfect chocolate cake.
Chocolate Avocado MousseSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezNo dairy, no problem: Puréeing ripe avocados with oat milk, agave syrup, and cocoa powder make for an ultra-creamy and velvety smooth vegan chocolate mousse.
Flourless Chocolate CakeSerious Eats / Fred HardyRich and pleasantly bittersweet with crisp edges and a fudgy interior, this flourless chocolate cake will keep you coming back for more. Espresso powder enhances the bittersweet chocolate's flavor, and whipping the eggs with sugar until they reach the ribbon stage—when the eggs have enough volume to leave a "ribbon"—helps aerate the cake.
Chocolate CupcakesMorgan Hunt GlazeThese tender, deeply flavorful chocolate cupcakes take just 15 minutes to prep before baking—no stand mixer needed. A combination of bittersweet chocolate and unsweetened cocoa powder gives the cupcake its rich, bold chocolate flavor, while the fat from sour cream keeps the batter tender.
Dairy-Free Chocolate CakeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis cake is a streamlined version of former Serious Eats editor Stella Parks' devil's food cake. Acidic ingredients like coffee and brown sugar work with baking soda to help leaven the cake, and olive oil provides the cake with a mild, buttery richness.
Serious EatsIf you have a built-in dishwasher, you might take the appliance for granted. But for those without one, hand-washing and drying dishes can be both annoying and time-consuming. Scalding hot water, dirty dishwater…you get the picture. If you have the space, a countertop dishwasher offers a solution. This mini appliance functions much the same way as its larger sibling: water comes in, dishes are washed, and dirty water drains out.
To find the best countertop dishwashers, I put seven models to the test—evaluating their cleaning abilities, capacities, and more.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Comfee countertop dishwasher can deliver sparklingly clean and bone-dry dishes in no time. (It took 130 minutes per cycle during my tests.) There’s a built-in UV light for extra sanitization and a variety of specialized settings for glassware, baby bottles, and more.
This is not a bad alternative to our winner. It doesn’t have a UV light or an automatically opening door but it performed similarly and all the dishes came out clean and dry.
This larger pick is great for anyone needing more dishes cleaned at once. It’s quiet, sleek, and cleans dishes as well as any full-sized dishwasher I’ve had.
The TestsSerious Eats Setup Test: I set a stopwatch and timed how long it took me to unbox and set up each dishwasher. * Maximum Capacity Test: I filled each model to determine its maximum capacity and noted how many dishes fit and if there were any areas that were difficult to load. * Cleaning Test: For each machine, I coated several plates and sets of flatware with barbecue sauce and loaded them. I filled a few glasses with milk, dumped the milk out, and added the glasses to the dishwasher. I ran a standard cycle and looked for any residue left behind. * Real-World Test (Winners Only)*: For machines that passed the first three tests, I ran a cycle using dishes from a typical meal in my household, noting ease of use and how clean the dishes were.
What I LearnedMany of the Countertop Dishwashers Performed Really WellThe good news: most countertop dishwasher clean well.Serious EatsI thought countertop dishwashers would be comparatively low-powered, but I was pleasantly surprised that these small but mighty appliances could really hold their own. Despite their compact size, many of the countertop dishwashers I tested delivered impressive cleaning power. They handled stubborn, sticky substances, oily tomato-based residue, and delicate glassware with ease.
Built-In Water Tanks Streamlined SetupLarger countertop dishwashers usually require you to set up a water intake hose.Serious EatsSome of the countertop dishwashers required a water hookup to run. Unfortunately, my sink has a pull-down kitchen hose that has no threading and, thus, nowhere for me to attach a dishwasher’s intake hose. After calls to customer service, a few trips to the hardware store, and some purchases from Amazon, I was able to finally attach these hoses. Despite this, I still had problems with leaking. It’s also worth noting that when the machine is plugged into your kitchen faucet, you cannot use the sink to, say, wash your hands or fill up a glass.
For this reason, I liked countertop dishwashers with built-in water tanks, as they were self-sufficient. The trade-off is that dishwashers without built-in tanks can hold more dishes. However, my top pick from Comfee was still able to accommodate two large dinner plates, three small salad plates, one juice glass, two cereal/soup bowls, two coffee mugs, two forks, two spoons, and two knives.
Beware of White LabelingWhite labeling refers to the practice of a manufacturer selling the same product under a different brand name. Several of the dishwashers I tested were the exact same machine, with the only real difference being the price.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Countertop DishwasherSerious EatsBefore you even consider buying a countertop dishwasher, think about how many dishes you need cleaned and how much storage and countertop space you have. Smaller models can hold about two place settings while larger versions can accommodate as many as six (or two plus some pots and pans). Your dishwasher will need to be situated fairly close to the sink so the wastewater hose has somewhere to drain. If attaching a hose to your faucet isn’t practical, several of the models I tested came with built-in water tanks that you fill before running. Smaller factors to consider are things like noise level or fancy features like a setting with high-heat sterilization for baby bottles.
Our Favorite Countertop DishwashersWhat we liked: Each of the machines I tested had its mix of strengths and weaknesses. The Comfee stood out as a gem, seamlessly combining all the best features into one impressive appliance. It delivered a perfect balance of performance, convenience, and reliability. The Comfee left dishes sparklingly clean and bone-dry, a feat not many dishwashers were able to pull off. In particular, I was impressed with the Comfee’s drying, as it allows you to put dishes away immediately after the cycle concludes. This model pops open the front door when it’s close to the end of drying to speed up the process and allow for more airflow. The inside was roomy and fit 10 dishes plus silverware. The dish rack has multiple configurations and I noted the noise level to be a quiet 67 decibels (not loud enough to interrupt a conversation or the television).
This model also comes with a few upgrades. There’s an interior light as well as a UV light that can kill germs, ostensibly. It has high-heat cycles to sanitize items, a no-heat option for cleaning fruit and vegetables, and a gentle glass setting. When it comes to water hookup, you can attach a hardline to your sink or fill the built-in reservoir.
What we didn’t like: This dishwasher is on the small side.
Key Specs Materials: Plastic and stainless steel * Size: 16.5 x 17.3 x 18.43 inches * Weight: 41.3 pounds * Capacity: 2 place settings * Tank or hard line?:* Both
What we liked: The Hermitlux has many of the same features as our winner. You can hook up the water intake to your sink or fill the built-in tank. The Hermitlux holds a surprising amount of dishes. (I was able to fit two large dinner plates, three salad plates, two bowls, two glasses, and two coffee mugs, plus silverware.) The standard wash cycle has a 69-minute run time and was able to clear dried-on barbecue sauce and milk residue without issue. Greasy tomato sauce also came right off with no pre-rinsing.
What we didn’t like: The Hermitlux has a smaller water intake than the Comfee (five liters instead of six). The holes in its silverware rack are shaped fairly small, so your silverware might not fit, depending on its design. The run time was much shorter than my winner, but that left me with dishes that were still wet and needed to be dried before being put away.
Key Specs Materials: Plastic and stainless steel * Size: 16.85 x 16.73 x 18 inches * Weight: 26.5 pounds * Capacity: 2 place settings * Tank or hard line?:* Both
What we liked: The Danby is larger than my other winners and functions more like a built-in model dishwasher. It connects to water via a hard line and is larger than an air fryer toaster oven, so it can fit up to six place settings and larger items like pots and pans. It’s water efficient and uses only 3.1 liters of water to get dishes very clean. While the run time on a standard cycle is long (two-and-a-half hours), it’s also much quieter than other models I tested. I liked its LED screen, too, which tracks how long is left in the dishwashing cycle.
What we didn’t like: At just under 20 inches tall, it may not fit under all upper kitchen cabinets. The water hookup process was tricky, especially if you don’t have the right kind of kitchen faucet. If you do, you’ll still have to keep this dishwasher within 30 inches of your sink. At 44 pounds, it’s not an appliance you’ll enjoy moving.
Key Specs Materials: Plastic and stainless steel * Size: 21.5 x 19.5 x 17 inches * Weight: 44 pounds * Capacity: 6 place settings * Tank or hard line?:* Hard line only
The Competition* Danby DDW621WDB: This is similar to our winner from the brand, but is cheaper and doesn’t have an LED screen that counts down the time remaining in a cycle. Its housing is white instead of chrome, but it otherwise cleaned the dishes just as well and in the same amount of time. * Comfee Countertop Dishwasher: This dishwasher is fairly identical to the Danby 631 (but in a black finish)—down to the buttons, rack, and water hookup line. If our favorite isn’t available, this is a good pick. * Novete Portable Countertop Dishwasher: This model failed to fully clean the barbecue sauce off of dishes during a normal cleaning cycle. * Farberware Portable Countertop Dishwasher: The silverware rack warped after running one of the higher temperature settings.
FAQsDoes a countertop dishwasher use a lot of water? Water usage is going to vary among machines. The smaller models I tested used about five liters of water to wash and rinse.
How do you clean a countertop dishwasher?The answer to this question will depend on the dishwasher but all of the models I tested did not need much in the way of cleaning. Over time, the filters and spray arms can get clogged with gunk. In this case, you’ll need to remove and rinse them with hot water.
Why We’re the Experts* Taylor Murray has worked in food and food media for over 10 years, including in award-winning restaurants like Eleven Madison Park. She has written extensively for Serious Eats. (Check out her reviews of carbon steel pans and carving boards.) * Taylor tested seven countertop dishwashers, using each to clean various dishes and silverware. During testing, she evaluated each machine’s performance, usability, and design.
Serious Eats / Hannah HuffmanIf you're a fan of classic red velvet cake but want something easier to make and with even more cream cheese frosting—arguably the best thing about red velvet cake—we've got just the recipe for you. These red velvet brownies—a genius recipe that combines the best of both worlds—comes by way of our Birmingham, Alabama-based test kitchen colleague Julia Levy. Topped with a tangy frosting, laced with bittersweet cocoa powder, and flavored with rich white chocolate, these brownies taste like a fudgier version of classic red velvet cake. Plus: You don’t have to bake, stack, and frost an entire cake.
Traditionally, red velvet cake is made with natural cocoa powder and an acid like vinegar. As Serious Eats contributor Brian Levy touched on in his red velvet cake recipe, natural cocoa powder contains higher levels of anthocyanins—water-soluble pigments found in purplish-red foods like beets and blueberries—than Dutch-processed cocoa powder. When these anthocyanins come into contact with an acid like vinegar, they turn red, producing the signature mahogany hue we so associate with red velvet cake. The vinegar in traditional red velvet cake also reacts with leaveners like baking soda, helping the cake to rise. In the case of these brownies, there are no leaveners, but the vinegar still provides a subtle tang that's a signature of red velvet cake. The cocoa powder also brings a nice hint of bitter chocolate flavor.
One key ingredient in these brownies that you won't find in the typical red velvet cake is white chocolate. In developing this recipe, Julia first tested it with all cocoa powder, then with cocoa powder and melted semisweet chocolate, and finally with cocoa powder and white chocolate. The first test, with all cocoa powder, produced something that tasted good but was too cakey to be called a brownie. The second test, with added semisweet chocolate chips, produced a brownie with the ideal fudginess, and while it was delicious, the chocolate flavor was stronger than what she was looking for. The final test with a combination of cocoa powder and white chocolate proved to be the sweet spot, with just the right amount of fudginess you want in a brownie and a balanced flavor.
Serious Eats / Hannah HuffmanThough many people don’t think of white chocolate as “real” chocolate, it is, in fact, chocolate. In his guide to white chocolate, former Serious Eats editor Max Falkowitz explains: “Dark chocolate is a suspension of cocoa solids, sugar, emulsifiers, and flavorings like vanilla in cocoa butter. White chocolate simply swaps out the cocoa solids for milk solids, but it’s still loaded with cocoa butter.” Cocoa solids contain the bittersweet flavors we associate with milk or dark chocolates; because white chocolate doesn’t contain any cocoa solids, it has a more subtle flavor. In Levy’s recipe, the white chocolate complements the bitterness of the unsweetened cocoa powder, and its light color allows the red food coloring to shine. Its abundance of fat also contributes to the rich flavor and moist texture of the brownies. The overall effect is a brownie that balances vanilla and chocolate flavors, but amps up the chocolatiness a bit more than traditional red velvet cake, which is often described as having a "mild" chocolate flavor.
Then there’s the cream cheese frosting, which, as noted above, is arguably the best part of red velvet cake. Levy’s frosting comes together in a single bowl with the help of a hand mixer: All you have to do is beat softened cream cheese, butter, vanilla extract, salt, and confectioners’ sugar together until it’s smooth and creamy. A little salt brings it all together, and enhances the tartness of the cream cheese while also balancing the sweetness of the confectioners’ sugar.
Each bite of these brownies is rich and fudgy and crowned with ample frosting. They're delicious regardless of whether you’re sharing them with a Valentine, some pals, or enjoying them by yourself.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and line an 8- by 8-inch baking pan with parchment paper.
Serious Eats / Hannah HuffmanFor the Brownies: In a medium microwave-safe bowl, combine butter and chocolate, and microwave on medium power until melted and smooth, stirring every 30 seconds, about 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Hannah HuffmanAdd granulated sugar and brown sugar to butter-chocolate mixture, and whisk until just combined. Whisk in eggs, vanilla, and food coloring (if using) until smooth. Add flour, cocoa powder, and salt; using a flexible spatula, fold dry ingredients into chocolate mixture until smooth and no streaks of flour remain. Add vinegar, and fold until incorporated. (If you plan to serve the brownies without the frosting, whisk the eggs and sugar together in a separate bowl before incorporating it into chocolate and butter mixture, which will ensure your top is shiny and crackly.)
Serious Eats / Hannah HuffmanTransfer batter to prepared baking pan and bake until top is crackly and a toothpick inserted into the center has some moist crumbs attached, 28 to 32 minutes. Remove from oven and let brownies cool completely in pan on a wire rack, about 2 hours.
Serious Eats / Hannah HuffmanFor the Cream Cheese Frosting: In a large bowl, combine cream cheese and butter and, using an electric hand mixer, beat on low speed until smooth and fluffy, about 1 minute. Add vanilla and salt, and beat until fully combined, about 10 seconds. Add confectioners' sugar, 1/4 cup at a time, beating after each addition until incorporated. Increase speed to medium and beat until fluffy and smooth, about 20 seconds. (Alternatively, frosting can be prepared in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.)
Serious Eats / Hannah HuffmanUsing an offset spatula or flexible spatula, spread frosting evenly across cooled brownies. Refrigerate until frosting is set, about 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Hannah HuffmanSpecial Equipment8- by 8-inch baking pan, medium microwave-safe bowl, wire rack, electric hand mixer or stand mixer, offset spatula
NotesBrownies made without the food coloring won’t have the signature hue of red velvet cake.
Make sure to use natural cocoa, and not Dutch processed cocoa in this recipe. The higher acidity in natural cocoa reacts with the vinegar to produce a mahogany hue.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe frosting and brownies can be made up to 3 days ahead before assembling and serving. Store the frosting in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Tightly wrap the brownies in plastic or transfer them to an airtight container and refrigerate them. Before serving, let frosting come to room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes, then use an electric hand mixer or stand mixer to beat until smooth and creamy.
Frosted brownies can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI have spent less than an hour of my life inside an Olive Garden, and it was on my one and only visit last year to the restaurant to try their "zuppa toscana," a customer favorite I'd heard about for ages but until that moment had never eaten. I have spent significantly more of my life in Tuscany itself, including several months working on a farm in the Maremma Valley. I also worked for several years as the sous chef to one of the world's authorities on Tuscan cooking, Cesare Casella, at his former NYC restaurant Beppe.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI can confidently say that I know a fair amount about Tuscan soups and how to make them. I have plenty of experience with the region's famed bread and bean soups, such as acquacotta, ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, and oh so many chickpea stews, not to mention Tuscan classics like the seafood-packed cacciucco that most folks in the States couldn't pick out of a lineup. Most Americans, however, probably can identify Olive Garden's zuppa toscana, despite it not being a soup almost any Tuscan would recognize. So that's why I finally went to taste it; it may not be "real" Tuscan food, but that doesn't mean it can't be good.
Was it good? I can confidently say that the zuppa toscana was the best thing by far that I sampled at the restaurant. But that isn't saying much. The soup was tasty and filling, but it was missing the kind of soulful touch that could make it great. None of its components blended, not in flavor and not in texture, in the way they should in this kind of dish. The important thing, though, is that the concept behind the soup is solid—its combination of sausage, kale, and potato in a lightly creamy broth can and should be great.
It doesn't take a genius to figure out how to nudge it in an even better direction—one that's richer, more flavorful, and more integrated, with all the elements coming together in unified harmony. The fennel-tinged pork sausage should infuse the broth with flavor and fat; the kale should be generous and tender; the potatoes should half-fade into the broth, thickening it naturally while leaving behind rounded little nubbins that melt in your mouth; the broth should be richer and creamier without crossing over into overwhelmingly heavy territory; and the whole thing should be quietly vibrating with chile heat, either from red chile flakes, spicy sausage, or both.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezDone well, it's a one-pot meal that fills the belly while blanketing you with a reassuring feeling of safety and comfort.
The Secrets to Better Olive Garden–Style Zuppa ToscanaStep 1: Steal Your Colleague's RecipeAs I sat eating the zuppa toscana at Olive Garden, my mind was noting specific details and assembling a theory of the recipe that would capture those details but make them even better. Slowly though, a feeling was growing in me that I had eaten this soup recently, and then it hit me: Genevieve's recent creamy tortellini soup recipe—her take on Reddit's "upvote" soup—is almost identical to Olive Garden's zuppa toscana with just a few critical alterations. Those are:
- Upvote soup has tortellini, zuppa toscana does not.
- Upvote soup is tinged red with tomato paste and has orange ingredients like carrot; zuppa toscana is much whiter, no tomato or carrot in sight.
- Upvote soup is thickened with cream and flour, while zuppa toscana seems to be thickened with cream and potato starch (though it's possible Olive Garden's proprietary recipe calls for other supplementary thickeners).
Upvote soup (top), zuppa toscana (bottom).Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI'm a big believer in not reinventing the wheel. I knew that Genevieve's upvote soup recipe had the basic building blocks for zuppa toscana, and I knew from eating Genevieve's soup that it was really good. My mission, then (I'm not ashamed to admit) was not to create a new recipe from scratch, but to adapt Genevieve's recipe, working with her same basic ratios and steps while making the necessary adjustments to produce an improved copycat zuppa toscana instead of an improved upvote soup.
Some of the key steps in Genevieve's original recipe that I maintain here include:
- Browning the sausage and rendering its fat. This builds flavor via the Maillard reaction while producing delicious sausage-flavored fat to infuse the soup.
- Cooking onions, celery, fennel, and garlic in the sausage fat. These aromatics form the flavor base of the soup, and by sautéing them in the sausage fat, we get a jump start on integrating the flavors.
- Blooming spices like fennel seed and chile flakes in the fat while the aromatics cook. Many flavor molecules, as well as the capsaicin that gives chiles their heat, are fat-soluble, so frying these dry ingredients in the sausage fat with the aromatics more fully draws out their flavor and spice and infuses it into the soup.
All of this formed the foundation of the soup. With a few additional tweaks, I'd be set.
Step 2: Use "Grandma's" Potato MethodI've written about this method of preparing potatoes before: It involves cutting off irregular chunks from the potato, in zuppa toscana's case a russet (leave the peel on if you want to do it exactly like Olive Garden, or peeled if that appeals more...let's ignore that pun and move along). Those irregular chunks vary slightly in size and have angular edges and tapered points.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis accomplishes an important effect in a soup like this: The thinner, pointer, and smaller bits of potato cook faster than the larger, wider pieces. With enough stirring, those overcooked parts of the potato slough off into the soup, thickening it with natural potato purée and leaving behind lovely little potato lumps.
It's an old-school technique that offers wonderful results.
Step 3: Add Parm Rinds (Optional)All of the steps described above are building towards a more full-flavored broth, but we can do more. One easy way to improve the soup's quality is to use a quality chicken stock, whether homemade or store-bought. Another is to chuck a Parmesan rind or two into the pot.
This is an optional step, but it's a worthwhile one if you can get your hands on a rind. That shouldn't be too hard—many cheese stores and cheese counters sell them for cheap, a nice way for them to make a little extra money off something that is otherwise trash. You could also save your own leftover rinds, which is the most cost-effective approach of all.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAnd I should add: It doesn't have to only be a rind from Parmigiano-Reggiano. You will get just as good results with a rind of Grana Padano, which is very similar in flavor to Parmesan, and often a little less expensive.
After simmering the rinds in the soup for a while, you can pluck them out and throw them away, pop them in your compost, or gnaw on them like a hungry raccoon.
The final steps: Finish the soup with cream, ladle it into bowls, and top it with grated Parm at the table. I'd like to think this is how a Tuscan would cook zuppa toscana, if that was a thing they did.
In a 5-quart soup pot or Dutch oven, heat olive oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add sausage and cook, stirring to break up the meat and scraping bottom of pot, until well browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove sausage from pot; set aside. If meat has rendered an excessive amount of fat, use a metal or other heat-safe spoon to ladle most of it out, leaving 2 to 3 tablespoons in the pot. (If, conversely, you have less than about 2 tablespoons of fat left, add extra olive oil.) Add onion, garlic, celery, fennel, fennel seeds, and crushed red pepper flakes, and cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pot, until vegetables are softened and release some moisture, about 8 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSlowly pour in stock or broth along with Parmesan rind(s) (if using). Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add kale and simmer until kale has softened slightly, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd potato and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until kale is very tender and potato is fully cooked through and its exterior has sloughed off (the potato nubbins should be rounded and smaller and the soup should be thickened with the released potato starch), about 30 minutes (if the potato is slow to wear down, stir more to agitate it and help it along).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezReturn sausage to soup and simmer until flavors have melded, skimming any excess fat that pools on the surface, about 10 minutes. Remove soup from heat and stir in heavy cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper; if soup is too thick, thin with additional warm stock until proper consistency is reached. Divide into bowls and serve with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano to sprinkle on top at the table.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment5- or 6-quart soup pot or Dutch oven
Make-Ahead and StorageLeftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days. Gently reheat soup in a pot over medium-low heat until warmed through, then serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezEgg prices are soaring in the United States: The New York Times recently reported that the price of eggs is 37% higher than a year ago, the result of a widespread egg shortage caused by avian flu. You've likely noticed this at your grocery store; for the past two weeks, my local supermarket has been sold out of eggs, and last week, our associate visuals director Amanda spotted a dozen eggs retailing for $12 at her neighborhood bodega.
If you're craving something sweet but can't find eggs or simply don't feel like breaking the bank, not to worry—there are plenty of delicious egg-free desserts you can whip up. Below, you'll find our favorite eggless confections, including a cozy apple crisp, an easy one-bowl shortbread, and a five-ingredient British banoffee pie.
Shortbread CookiesSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhite whole wheat flour gives this one-bowl shortbread an earthy, nutty flavor while keeping the dough tender, and plenty of butter ensures that each bite has a pleasantly crumbly texture that melts in your mouth. Plus: The dough takes just five minutes to make.
Whipped Banana Ice CreamSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezYou can make our creamy banana ice cream with just one ingredient—but a couple of pantry ingredients make it so much better than any other "nice" cream. For extra smooth, custardy ice cream, briefly soften and slice your frozen bananas before puréeing, then use a food processor to whip the fruit.
Vegan Chocolate BrowniesVicky WasikWith aromatic cocoa butter for richness and flavor, plus a toasty, nutty hint of malt powder to help with browning in a nondairy formula, these fudgy vegan chocolate brownies taste as good as they look.
Rice Krispie TreatsSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezA box of cereal, a bag of marshmallows, a few tablespoons of butter, and salt are all you need to make these classic treats. A generous hand with salt balances the sweetness of the marshmallows, while brown butter adds rich, nutty flavor.
Chocolate Mayonnaise CakeSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineIt's time to bring back this retro cake, which takes just 10 minutes to prep and relies on a classic condiment—mayonnaise!—for its moist, fudgy texture.
Easy Edible Cookie DoughSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezAll of the pleasure of eating raw cookie dough, with none of the food poisoning risk! This five-minute recipe makes enough for one or two people, depending on if you feel like sharing.
Banoffee PieSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis low-effort dessert with gooey dulce de leche, sliced bananas, and whipped cream is a British classic—and is one you can make without a single egg. Simmering canned condensed milk for an extended period of time is a hands-off way to create a thick, dark dulce de leche, and topping the banoffee pie with unsweetened whipped cream helps to offset the sweetness of the filling and bananas.
Knickerbocker GlorySerious Eats / Larisa NiedleIt may be cold outside, but that's not stopping us from digging into an ice cream sundae. Featuring vanilla ice cream, fresh strawberries, whipped cream, and a fan wafer, the knickerbocker glory is a British classic—and is exactly what we need to brighten our day.
The Best Apple CrispVicky WasikApple crisp is easier than pie, and this one might taste even better. Here, a mixture of firm, tart apples and softer baking apples produces a filling that's balanced in both flavor and texture. Topped with a crumbly mixture of toasted pecans, sugar, lemon zest, and grated nutmeg, this apple crisp is what we turn to when we want a cozy dessert that tastes like pie but comes together in half the time.
Millionaire's ShortbreadSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezWith layers of tender shortbread, rich caramel, and dark chocolate, millionaire’s shortbread is a luxurious confection worth making at home. Cooking the butter, sugar, and heavy cream to 235ºF (113ºC) results in butterscotch that's satisfyingly chewy and not too firm or runny, and a topping of dark chocolate helps offset the sweetness of the filling.
Eggless Chocolate MousseVicky WasikRepeat after me: five-ingredient chocolate mousse! No eggs or gelatin are required, just plenty of good-quality cocoa powder, sugar, milk, and cream.
Cornflake Marshmallow TreatsSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezRice Krispies treats get all the love, but I’m going to let you in on a little secret: cornflake crispies are better. Corn’s naturally sweet and earthy flavor profile lends itself well to desserts, making it a fun, versatile ingredient to use in puddings, ice cream, cookies, and more
Brown Butter Shortbread CookiesVicky WasikBrown butter, toasted sugar, and malted milk powder make a shortbread cookie that's as tender and meltingly rich as a French sablé, but extra toasty and caramelized.
Vegan Meringue CookiesNik SharmaTurn aquafaba—the cooking liquid of beans and legumes like chickpeas—into an eggless "meringue." Light, pillowy, and crisp, these cookies taste exactly like their non-vegan counterpart.
Banana SplitSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThree very large scoops of ice cream complete with fudge sauce, caramel sauce, and strawberry sauce—plus plenty of whipped cream, chopped walnuts, and a maraschino cherry. The banana split is a classic for a reason, and one that will make you feel like a kid again.
Easy No-Bake CheesecakeA no-cook, no-bake cheesecake is the perfect dessert if you don't feel like turning on the oven...and if you don't have any eggs.
Homemade Jell-O Style Chocolate PuddingSarah Jane SandersCreamy, silky chocolate pudding that's even better than the store-bought stuff.
Khao Niao Mamuang (Thai Coconut Sticky Rice)Vicky WasikThis Thai dessert of glutinous sticky rice, seasoned with salty-sweet coconut milk and served with tender, fragrant slices of mango is simple, delicious, and comforting.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWho among us hasn’t been tempted to sneak a spoonful of homemade or store-bought chocolate chip cookie dough batter? As enticing as that bowl (or tube) of raw cookie dough may look, it's really not a good idea to dig in—both the raw eggs and uncooked flour in traditional cookie dough carry risks of foodborne illness, including Salmonella and listeria. Fortunately, there's a way to satiate a bout of childhood nostalgia for raw cookie dough—without succumbing to a bout of food poisoning.
This recipe for a delicious—and safe—dough studded with chocolate chips comes together in five minutes from just a handful of ingredients you probably already have in your pantry. It makes enough for one or two servings, so you can share it with a friend or keep it all for yourself—I won’t judge.
How to Make Raw Cookie Dough Safe to EatMaking raw cookie dough safe to eat requires more than just nixing the raw eggs: Raw flour is technically unsafe to eat, according to the CDC. Flour doesn't look like a raw food, but most all-purpose flour is raw. That means it hasn't been treated to kill pathogens that cause food poisoning, such as Escherichia coli (E. coli) and Salmonella. These harmful bacteria can contaminate the grain while it's still in the field or flour while it's being made. Steps like grinding grain and bleaching flour don't kill the harmful germs—and there is a chance that pathogens can end up in flour or baking mixes you buy at the store.
These bacteria are killed once they reach 160℉, so baking or cooking with flour makes it safe to consume. Fortunately it's easy to make unbaked flour safe, and it takes less than a minute: Briefly zap the flour on a heat-saft plate in the microwave to ensure the flour reaches at least 160℉. This brief cooking is sufficient to kill any harmful bacteria that might be present in the flour. The short time in the microwave also cooks off the raw flour flavor, resulting in a more deeply flavored, much better tasting dough.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Best Substitute for the Raw EggOne of the key ingredients in standard chocolate chip cookies is egg. While sugar and flour are the stars in most traditional cookie dough recipes, eggs are the workhorse— they show up to get the job done by providing plenty of water to hydrate the dough, lecithin (a powerful emulsifier) to bind the batter, fat to enrich the dough, and protein to ensure the cookies retain their structure once baked.
So when omitting eggs from a raw batter, ingredient adjustments are needed to ensure the batter is still as rich and moist as a cookie dough that’s made with eggs. The first adjustment is scaling up the amount of butter in the recipe to make up for the fat lost from the missing egg yolk. This cookie dough has almost equal parts by weight of flour to butter (32g to 28g), which is a much higher percentage of butter than most traditional cookie recipes. This guarantees you won’t miss the richness from eggs.
The second recipe adjustment is adding milk to the batter. Milk is not a standard chocolate chip cookie ingredient, but a couple of tablespoons of milk in this recipe makes up for moisture lost from the missing egg. This ensures that the flour in the dough is well hydrated and that the dough doesn’t have a sandy, dry texture. I add the milk to the dough after the sugar is whisked and fully dissolved in the warm butter.
Customize the Dough However You LikeThe main recipe below is for a basic chocolate chip cookie dough. I use brown sugar instead of granulated sugar for a richer, deeper toffee-like flavor, and a scant amount of salt livens the flavor of the batter. But view this recipe as a starting point and be as creative as you choose—you could add a few tablespoons of chopped nuts, crushed salty pretzels, or your favorite sugary cereal in addition to or in place of the chocolate chips, just to list a few options. I’ve also provided three fun flavor variations below the recipe: a funfetti cookie dough, a double chocolate cookie dough, and a peanut butter cookie dough, which are all equally good.
Drape a blanket over my shoulders, place a messy bun on top of my head, and put a spoonful of any one of these raw cookie doughs in my hand, and I’m in my happy place.
On a heat-safe plate, place flour in a flat even layer and microwave for 1 minute on high; set aside to cool, 3 to 5 minutes.
In a medium bowl, whisk melted butter, sugar, vanilla, and salt until combined and sugar is dissolved, then whisk in milk. Using a rubber spatula or back of a soup spoon, stir in the cooled flour until well combined. Stir in the chocolate chips, if using. Cover with a lid or plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, 10 minutes or up to 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRoll into 6 dough balls and serve. Or throw a blanket over your shoulder, grab a spoon, and eat it all right out of the container, because you deserve it!
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezVariationsFunfetti Cookie Dough: Swap white chocolate chips for the standard chocolate chips and add 1 tablespoon rainbow sprinkles.
Double Chocolate Cookie Dough: Omit chocolate chips from recipe. Add 1 additional tablespoon milk. Stir in 1 tablespoon cocoa powder and 2 crushed Oreos (or your preferred chocolate sandwich cookie) with the flour in step 2.
Peanut Butter Cookie Dough: Whisk in 1 1/2 tablespoons creamy or chunky peanut butter with the melted butter in step 2.
Special EquipmentHeat-safe plate, microwave
Make-Ahead and StorageWhile leftover dough can be stored in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 1 day, it's really best eaten within the first hour it’s made, as the dough will begin to dry out slightly as it sits in the refrigerator.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyIn a lot of older recipes, pepper often seems like an afterthought: “Salt and pepper to taste.” But lately, is it just me or is black pepper having a renaissance? Recipes no longer mention it as an optional ingredient, instead leaning into it wholeheartedly. In a meatball recipe in Molly Baz’s cookbook More Is More, she tells cooks to season the panade with “lots of freshly ground black pepper.” Meanwhile, in Andy Baraghani’s The Cook You Want to Be, he also implores us to sprinkle a sizzled feta dish with “lots of pepper.” Call me influenced, but in the past year, I’ve peppered more than I ever have, making a good grinder a must. And the star pepper grinder in my household is from HexClad—yes, the Gordon Ramsay-approved skillet brand.
Why the HexMill Is My Go-To Pepper MillI was skeptical when I first received the HexMill Pepper Grinder a year ago. (I got it along with the cookware set.) It was tall and heavy, and I wasn’t sure the geometric design would be comfortable to grip. It seemed over-engineered—and overpriced, at $129. But I filled it up with peppercorns and gave it a try. Fast-forward a year, and it’s the pepper mill I reach for daily. What gives?
There are a few important things when choosing a pepper mill: how easy it is to adjust the grind size, how comfortable it is to hold and use, how fast it grinds, and its capacity. And, much to my surprise, the HexMill delivers on all counts.
It features a bottom catch basin you can grind into or remove to grind pepper directly onto food. The grind adjuster is a simple dial that can be pushed toward “coarse” or “fine.” While it might not be as nuanced as some other pepper mills we’ve tested, I still find it easy to home in on the size I want. Once that’s chosen, I give a quick twist to the smoothly rotating knob, which has nice torque to it, and out spritzes pepper. It’s fast, efficient, and delivers a fine powder as readily as a chunky grind.
One of my favorite things about the HexMill is its capacity. While I also have and use our top pepper mill from Peugeot (it’s great!) the capacity is 35 grams of peppercorns, which I blow through in a week or two. (What can I say, I like pepper!) The HexMill, on the other hand, holds double that at about 70 grams. I can go even longer without a refill. When I do need to fill ‘er up, it’s as simple as pressing the button on the top and the knob pops off. It has a wide opening too, so peppercorns funnel neatly into the mill rather than scattering across my countertop and floor.
And while yes, it’s a pricey mill, it’s also incredibly durable—I’ve knocked it off the counter many times, and it’s sustained nary a scratch.
Why We’re the Experts* Grace Kelly is an editor at Serious Eats, where she’s been testing gear for almost three years. * She’s been using the HexMill for about a year, and it’s become her go-to pepper grinder.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen my husband and I first started dating, he presented me with a box of dark chocolate truffles from a tiny shop called The Chocolate Tree in Edinburgh. Though the shop is now sadly out of business, I often think about the rich dark chocolate truffles my husband brought me for every special occasion: bittersweet, sometimes coated with chopped nuts or cocoa nibs, or filled with salted caramel. As clichéd as they may be, chocolate truffles remain one of my favorite gifts to receive on special occasions—and I love giving them away too. They're a great edible gift for Valentine's Day, Christmas and other winter holidays, and birthdays. Luckily for me (and my husband!), luxurious chocolate truffles are surprisingly easy to make.
To make truffles, you just have to prepare a ganache, let it sit, roll the ganache into balls, then coat them in melted chocolate and cocoa powder. It’s perfectly doable—and all you need is chocolate, cocoa powder, and water. (Yes, water, supposedly the sworn enemy of chocolate!)
Most chocolate ganaches are an emulsion made with chocolate, cream, and butter: You pour hot cream over chopped chocolate, let it sit until the chocolate has melted, then use an immersion blender or a whisk to combine them, being careful not to introduce too many air bubbles. The butter goes in towards the end, and you get a shiny, emulsified mixture that can be used right away to glaze desserts and fill confections such as bonbons or chocolate bars, or refrigerated and rolled into truffles. Though chocolate ganache made with cream and butter is delicious, you can also make an excellent ganache with just water and chocolate—no immersion blender or dairy needed.
The Key to Adding Water to Chocolate Without the Dreaded SeizingAs a young pastry cook, I was constantly warned to keep water away from melted chocolate. A single drop can ruin an entire batch: The chocolate seizes, becoming stiff, grainy, and impossible to work with. It’s a frustrating and expensive error, and one that will terrify you into never making the same mistake again. But what if I told you that you can, in fact, add water to chocolate without breaking it? The key is to use enough liquid to coat the cocoa particles, which will keep the chocolate fluid and prevent it from seizing.
In her book BakeWise, Shirley Corriher uses an example of a wet spoon and a sugar bowl to explain how this works. “If you pour a cup of boiling water into a sugar bowl, it dissolves all the sugar—no lumps. But, if you dip a spoon that you just used to stir your coffee into the sugar bowl, you get little grainy lumps of sugar. The small amount of moisture from your spoon caused the dry sugar particles to glue together,” she writes. “This is exactly what happens when you get a little moisture on melted chocolate: the fine, dry sugar and cocoa particles glue together to change melted chocolate into a solid, grainy mess.”
To prevent chocolate from seizing, you need enough liquid to wet all the cocoa particles. According to Corriher, you need at least one tablespoon of water for every two ounces of bittersweet chocolate containing 55 to 60% cocoa. The darker the chocolate, the more cocoa particles, and the more liquid you’ll need to keep it fluid. She recommends using at least one and a half tablespoons of water for every two ounces of dark chocolate containing 60 to 70% cocoa, and two tablespoons of water for every two ounces of unsweetened chocolate. (It’s why the chocolate doesn’t seize when you combine coffee with chocolate for desserts like devil’s food cake.)
How to Make a Silky Smooth Chocolate Ganache, No Dairy RequiredUse the correct ratio of liquid to chocolate. The ratio matters for two reasons: As mentioned above, you need enough water to coat the cocoa particles to prevent the chocolate from seizing. The ratio of water to chocolate, however, will also determine the texture of your ganache. There are three categories of ganaches, according to Corriher and pastry chef Sherry Yard, who Corriher consulted for her book:
- Soft ganaches typically contain two parts liquid to one part chocolate by weight.
- Medium ganaches typically contain equal parts liquid to chocolate by weight.
- Firm ganaches typically contain one part liquid to two parts chocolate by weight.
Below, I use about two and a half tablespoons (35.5ml) per two ounces of chocolate, which is safely above the minimum Corriher recommends and produces a ganache with a texture between medium and firm. Once the ganache has set, it’s firm enough to roll, but still soft enough to melt in your mouth.
Use good quality chocolate. Because the only other ingredient in this ganache is water (and salt and corn syrup, if desired—more on that below), it’s absolutely essential to use the best chocolate you can find. My go-to chocolate for eating and cooking is Valrhona’s Guanaja 70% or Manjari 64%, which are both well-rounded dark chocolates with bittersweet fruity notes. Guittard is also a good option and widely available at supermarkets. Avoid using chocolate chips, as they contain stabilizers and often take longer to melt.
For a shinier ganache, add a touch of corn syrup. Pastry chefs love corn syrup: The ingredient prevents ice creams, chocolates, and caramels from setting too firmly while also providing a glossy sheen. An optional teaspoon of corn syrup can give the ganache a nice shine, which isn’t necessary for truffles dusted in cocoa powder, but is nice if you plan on using the ganache to glaze a cake.
Let the ganache rest for at least eight hours if you are using it to make truffles. The ganache should be used immediately if you plan to glaze cakes with it. If you’re making truffles, however, it’s best to let the ganache sit for at least eight hours (and up to 48 hours), which gives the chocolate mixture time to properly set. It’s best to let this happen at cool room temperature (68ºF/20ºC). Avoid refrigeration, as this can create condensation and water spots on the chocolate.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezHow to Roll and Coat Your TrufflesTo keep things tidy, I recommend setting up a station so you can work from right-to-left or left-to-right, depending on what feels more comfortable for you. For efficiency, I like to roll all my truffles at once so they’re all ready to go. I keep a rimmed baking sheet on my left side for the rolled truffles, a bowl of melted chocolate in front of me for dipping, and another rimmed baking sheet filled with cocoa powder for coating the truffles. I gently drop the truffles, one or two at a time, into the bowl of melted chocolate, then use a slotted spoon to place them into the cocoa powder on my right. Gently shake the sheet tray after each truffle to evenly coat each one with cocoa powder, then let them sit until firm, about one hour.
Once all the truffles are rolled, they're ready to eat or share and will keep at room temperature for about five days. Truffles also freeze beautifully and can be eaten at room temperature or directly out of the freezer, if it's that kind of day.
Line a 9- by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment; set aside.
In a medium saucepan, bring water, salt, and corn syrup (if using) to a boil. Remove from heat, add chocolate, and whisk until smooth, thick, and glossy. Set aside, using a flexible spatula to stir gently and frequently, until ganache registers 94ºF (34ºC), about 20 minutes. If using ganache to frost a cake, use immediately. If using ganache to make truffles, scrape ganache into prepared baking sheet; press plastic wrap or parchment against surface of chocolate and let sit at cool room temperature until ganache is set, at least 8 hours and up to 48 hours. (See notes.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Truffles: Using a fine-mesh sieve, sift cocoa powder onto a 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet.
Bring a medium saucepan to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Reduce heat to low to keep water at a bare simmer. Place chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl, set it over the saucepan and, stirring occasionally with a flexible heatproof spatula, cook until chocolate is melted and smooth. Remove bowl and set on a heatproof work surface, stirring occasionally, until cooled but still fluid.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeanwhile: Using an offset spatula or butter knife, cut ganache into 12 rows lengthwise and then 9 crosswise to form 108 evenly sized squares: . (See notes.) Using your hands and working one at a time, roll each square into a round ball. Set balls aside in a large bowl, on a large plate, or a 9- by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet while you shape the remaining truffle balls.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWorking one at a time, drop truffle into bowl of melted chocolate and, using a slotted spoon or spatula, toss truffle to evenly coat with chocolate. Use slotted spoon to remove truffle, allowing any excess chocolate to drip off, and place in cocoa powder. Gently shake baking sheet after each addition to roll truffles so they are evenly coated with cocoa powder; let sit at cool room temperature until firm, about 1 hour. Repeat with remaining truffles.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen truffles have solidified, place 5 to 7 truffles in a large fine-mesh sieve. Shake to remove excess cocoa; set aside. Repeat with remaining truffles.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment9- by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet, fine-mesh sieve, 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet, flexible heatproof spatula
VariationsTruffles can be rolled in crushed nuts, crushed peppermint candy, cocoa nibs, or coconut instead of cocoa powder.
NotesCorn syrup will give the ganache a nice sheen, but isn’t necessary.
If using ganache to glaze a cake, use immediately.
This recipe yields 108 one-inch truffles, which is a lot. You can make the full batch of ganache and use half for glazing a cake and refrigerate the rest to make truffles. Leftover ganache can also be reheated to use to glaze cakes or cupcakes or melted in milk to make hot chocolate.
Make-Ahead and StorageCoated truffles can be stored in an airtight container at cool room temperature for up to 5 days.
Truffles can also be frozen in an airtight container for up to 3 months.
Serious Eats /Qi AiI grew up in the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Family vacations to Chiang Mai, the cultural and historical capital of the north, were a special treat my family got to enjoy every few years. Visiting Chiang Mai felt—and still feels—almost like going to another country or stepping into a different time: The city is surrounded by mountains and lush greenery, with a 700-year-old moat enclosing a tightly woven tapestry of bustling streets. My family and I would pack ourselves into the car, and my dad would drive 500 miles to our destination. These road trips were the ultimate exercise in delayed gratification—my patience was always rewarded with a spread of northern Thai dishes, including sai ua (grilled spiced sausages), nam prik ong (tomato and pork relish), and gaeng hunglae.
Gaeng hunglae (แกงฮังเล) is one of northern Thailand’s most iconic dishes. Chunks of tender pork are gently braised in a sweet and sour curry seasoned with palm sugar, tamarind paste, and hunglae powder, a regional variation on garam masala. The dish is a labor of love: Gaeng hunglae takes about five hours to make, and because it features pork, a luxury in this part of Thailand, hunglae is considered a special occasion dish. It’s most commonly prepared during Songkran (Thai new year celebrations) and Buddhist festivals; it’s also served to monks during religious ceremonies as a symbol of devotion, and to honored guests and visitors as a symbol of northern hospitality.
While most Thais now consider gaeng hunglae a quintessentially northern Thai dish, hunglae reportedly originated in Myanmar, formerly Burma. Burma conquered the region from the Kingdom of Lan Na in 1558 and, though the Kingdom of Siam (now Thailand) wrested power in 1774, the Burmese influence can still be felt in Chiang Mai’s architecture, culture, and food. In fact, gaeng hunglae bears a closer resemblance to Burmese stews than it does to any central Thai curry: It doesn’t contain coconut milk, a common central Thai ingredient, and it relies more heavily on dried spices—rather than fresh—for flavor. The term “hunglae” is derived from the Burmese words ဟင်း (hainn) for curry and လေး (lay) for meat.
There are two main regional variations of hunglae in Thailand: The Chiangsaen version (named after its region of origin, a town in Chiang Rai province bordering Myanmar and Laos), which contains seasonal vegetables like eggplant, long beans, and bamboo shoots, and the Maan version (“Maan” is an old northern Thai term for Burmese), which is the most commonly eaten version in Chiang Mai and the recipe that I am sharing below.
Decent gaeng hunglae can be difficult to locate outside of northern Thailand. Even now, with the proliferation of Thai restaurants serving up regional specialties around the world, gaeng hunglae is often eclipsed by its more popular compatriot khao soi, a northern Thai coconut curry noodle soup. Though gaeng hunglae is more subdued, it is no less compelling than its noodle cousin—and it’s my favorite dish to cook for friends, especially those who’ve had limited experiences with Thai food beyond the usual takeout classics like pad Thai and green curry.
Serious Eats /Qi AiThe Building Blocks of Great Gaeng HunglaeThe Curry Paste and Garam MasalaThe foundation for hunglae is its curry paste, which is made by pounding together chiles and aromatics like fresh galangal, lemongrass, and garlic. The kind of curry paste used will depend on the dish you’re preparing; the variation used in hunglae is made with dried chiles, shallots, garlic, lemongrass, galangal, and shrimp paste (kapi กะปิ), resulting in an herbaceous, spicy, salty paste that mellows out beautifully with the application of heat.
For the most flavorful paste, I recommend using a mortar and pestle. As former Serious Eats editor Kenji has written, the grinding motion of the mortar and pestle breaks down cell walls, releasing more flavor compounds than the simple chopping action of a food processor or blender. To make the pounding easier, be sure to slice the lemongrass, galangal, and shallots as thinly as you can before grinding them. The order in which you add the ingredients to the mortar and pestle also matters: You want to add the ingredients from hardest to softest, starting with the dried chiles and salt, followed by the galangal and lemongrass, and finally, the alliums and shrimp paste. This process allows each ingredient to be broken down properly, yielding a smooth, aromatic paste. When I’m short on time, I use Kenji’s hybrid mortar and pestle and food processor method. Simply begin the process of breaking down the ingredients in your mortar and pestle, then finish it in the food processor to get it completely smooth.
In addition to the curry paste, the dish also relies on hunglae powder or masala powder for its spiced notes. This ingredient is rarely found in central Thai cooking, and is what gives gaeng hunglae its signature warmth and complexity. The spice mix varies from brand to brand, but most versions containa combination of cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, cumin, and coriander seeds. I recommend using hunglae powder if you can find it, but you can also use your favorite store-bought or homemade garam masala for this recipe.
The PorkMy favorite way to make this curry is with a mix of skin-on pork belly and pork shoulder. The belly is, in many ways, the star of the show: After four hours of braising, the fat practically melts into the sauce, giving it a velvety texture. While the dish is good when made with a skinless belly, the collagen from the skin makes for a significantly richer curry with a satiny finish. The pork shoulder, on the other hand, ups the meat to fat ratio and provides the dish with more substance. Other braising cuts such as country-style ribs or shanks can also be used.
The Pickled GarlicPickled garlic (kratiem dong; กระเทียมดอง) adds little pops of sweet and sour flavor throughout the dish, and cuts through the richness of the sauce and the pork. Most grocery stores selling Southeast Asian products will have the Thai version, but any garlic pickled in vinegar can be substituted.
Serious Eats /Qi AiHow to Serve Gaeng HunglaeOnce the pork is tender and the sauce has reduced to a thick gravy-like consistency, the dish is ready for the table. Garnish it with toasted and crushed peanuts and extra julienned ginger, or enjoy as is. If you are good at delaying gratification, put it away in the refrigerator overnight and enjoy it the next day: The extra time gives the flavors a chance to meld and develop even further, and excess fat can be skimmed off more easily when the curry is cold, should you choose to do so.
Hunglae is best enjoyed with steamed rice or sticky rice (khao niao). While hunglae and rice make for a great meal as a duo, a Northern Thai table is rarely ever set with just two things. The khantoke, a small pedestal filled with a number of small dishes, is a Northern tradition that continues to this day: The idea is for diners to enjoy a balance of different flavors, textures, and nutrients from a selection of foods during the course of the meal. For a more authentic Northern Thai experience, serve hunglae alongside other Chiang Mai favorites, such as nam prik noom (roasted green chili dip), nam prik ong (tomato and pork dip), and larb muang (herby chopped meat salad).
For the Curry Paste: In a small bowl, soak chiles in just enough hot water to cover; let sit until softened, about 5 minutes. Using a fine-mesh sieve, drain chiles.
Serious Eats /Qi AiIn a mortar and pestle, pound chiles with salt until a thick paste begins to form, 2 to 3 minutes. Add galangal and lemongrass and continue pounding until finely ground, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, shallots, and shrimp paste, and continue pounding until a smooth paste forms, about 5 more minutes.
Serious Eats /Qi AiFor the Curry: In a 5-quart Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot, heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add curry paste and fry, stirring frequently, until fragrant and color deepens, 2 to 3 minutes. Add pork belly and pork shoulder, stirring to evenly coat with curry paste. Add hunglae powder, sweet soy sauce, palm sugar, and tamarind, stirring to combine. Add pickled garlic, fresh garlic, and half the ginger.
Serious Eats /Qi AiAdd enough water to fully submerge pork, about 5 cups. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer. Simmer on low heat until curry is thick enough to coat a spoon and pork is very tender, using a wooden spoon to stir and scrape occasionally, about 4 hours. The pork should be just submerged throughout the cooking process; if curry gets too dry, add more water to cover. (If sauce remains thin after 4 hours, remove pork, set aside, and reduce sauce until thick enough to coat a spoon, 15 to 20 minutes. Return pork to sauce and cook until warmed through, and proceed with step 5 of recipe.)
Serious Eats /Qi AiRemove from heat, add remaining ginger, and season with additional salt, tamarind, and/or palm sugar as needed. Garnish with peanuts, if desired. Serve with jasmine rice or sticky rice.
Serious Eats /Qi AiSpecial EquipmentMortar and pestle, fine-mesh sieve, 5-quart Dutch oven
NotesThawed frozen galangal can be used. In a pinch, 5 grams of dried galangal can also be substituted: Soak in hot water until softened, about 30 minutes, before using.
Kapi (กะปิ) shrimp paste, a dense condiment made by fermenting ground up shrimp or krill with salt, is a foundational ingredient in the Thai kitchen. It is reddish brown or sometimes purplish in color, and is usually sold in a jar or as a solid brick. It can be purchased online or at Southeast Asian grocery stores.
To make the hunglae gluten free, substitute 1 tablespoon tamari for the sweet soy sauce and increase the palm sugar to 3 1/2 tablespoons.
Most Southeast Asian grocer stores will sell Thai pickled garlic, but any vinegar-pickled garlic can be substituted.
Pickled garlic (กระเทียมดอง - kratiem dong) gives this dish an alluring pop of sour-sweetness. You can find the Thai version—made with white or rice vinegar, sugar, and salt—at markets that stock Asian ingredients or online, but any version made with a sweetish brine can be substituted. It is also quite easy to make at home. For about 3 cups of garlic cloves, I make a brine using 3 cups white vinegar or rice vinegar, 2 cups water, 1 cup sugar, and 2 tablespoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt (for table salt, use half as much by volume). Bring all the brine ingredients to a simmer, and pour, hot, over the garlic. Let sit for at least 48 hours in the refrigerator before using.
If pressed for time, you can use a food processor or a high-powered blender like a Vitamix to make the curry paste. The resulting paste, however, may not be as flavorful as one made in a mortar and pestle. The pounding and grinding motion breaks down the cells walls (instead of cutting through them with a blade), and produces a more aromatic and flavorful paste.
Make-Ahead and StorageCurry paste can be made 1-2 days ahead of time and kept refrigerated in an airtight container.
Hunglae is ready to eat as soon as it’s done, but gets even better the next day. Refrigerate in an airtight container. When ready to eat, skim off congealed fat if desired, and reheat in microwave or on stovetop (add a little water if necessary to loosen the mixture). Leftover hunglae will keep in the refrigerator for 5 days.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikLike many other Americans, I grew up under the impression that most savory meals ought to be served hot. "Eat before your food gets cold!" is a line I remember hearing not only from anxious TV moms, but also from my own dad once in a while.
Now that I'm all grown up and cooking for myself, the effort it must have taken my parents to get every dish hot off the stove and onto the table at the same time isn't lost on me. But the necessity of doing so is starting to be, since plenty of the foods I enjoy most taste just fine, perhaps better, when they've had a few minutes to cool down—or, alternatively, warm up. And it isn't just me.
As descriptors go, "tepid" is no one's idea of appetizing, and "room-temperature" is an admittedly imprecise designation that's more often attached to ingredients in baking recipes—eggs, butter—than a suggestion for serving. But that ought to change, because, as you may know if you've ever grazed from platters or cooking vessels while washing dishes, room-temperature is often the best way to consume all sorts of foods.
Why Serving Temperature Matters for FlavorSerious Eats / Vicky WasikAt Serious Eats, we talk at prodigious length about the chemical and physical reactions that foods undergo during cooking. What we don't discuss as often are the processes that take place once the dish hits the table and people start digging in. You may have sweated away in the kitchen to conjure up an intricate combination of aromas and flavors, but it's all for naught if our noses and taste buds can't perceive them—and smell and taste are both highly sensitive to temperature.
Our tongues can identify five basic tastes—bitter, salty, sour, sweet, and umami. What we know as “flavor” is obviously more nuanced and complex, and can be loosely defined as the combined perception of taste and aroma.
Aroma molecules become more volatile when subjected to heat, which is why bread smells best when fresh out of the oven (and why New York City streets smell most rank in August). As our sense of flavor is inextricably linked to smell, this goes some way toward explaining why heating foods can make them taste better, too.
But it's also a little more complicated than that, and understanding how temperature interacts with taste and flavor will allow you to be more deliberate in how you prepare and serve your food. This topic remains poorly understood in scientific circles, in part due to wide variation in the concentrations of taste compounds in different foods, as well as the inherent subjectivity of taste. Nevertheless, the idea that hot and cold temperatures reduce the intensity at which your tongue perceives taste has gained a fair amount of credence among both academics and laypeople.
A 2007 study by researchers at the University of Leuven in Belgium found that human perception of taste declines at temperatures above 35°C (95°F). Cold temperatures also seem to exert a muffling effect on flavor, whether due simply to reduced volatility of aromatic compounds or to independent factors involving a particular taste receptor that's more excitable at higher temperatures. This is why it pays to splurge on higher-quality chocolate for homemade stracciatella gelato than you would use in, say, brownies, and why even semi-firm and hard cheeses shouldn't be served straight from the fridge.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWhat's striking here, at least in the context of the widely cited University of Leuven research, is that the bounds of "hot" and "cold" we're talking about aren't even that hot and cold. The threshold of 95°F isn't as warm as the center of a very rare steak (120°F), or our own body temperature. The authors note that, according to earlier studies, salty, bitter, sweet, and sour stimuli were easiest to detect in foods within a relatively balmy range from 68 to 86°F—colloquially known as room temperature.
Once the threshold is surpassed, the effects of temperature vary, but heading toward the extremes frequently seems to knock the balance of flavors off kilter. Perception of sweetness appears to increase with heat, which is why ice cream, notoriously, tastes overly sweet when melted.* Sourness increases at higher temperatures, while salty flavors may seem more or less pronounced with heat, depending on which of multiple salt receptors in the tongue are activated. Beer turns bitter when warmed from its typical serving temperature; coffee, on the other hand, has been found to taste less bitter when cooled down from piping-hot.
*In line with research showing that warming or cooling certain areas of the tongue can bring about changes in flavor perception, a 2013 study found that participants served ice water experienced diminished ability to sense sweetness, chocolatiness, and creaminess in dark chocolate. The study's authors propose that North Americans' unique preference for ice water may help to explain our predilection for more intensely sweet foods. If we can just tie in SUVs somehow, we may be on our way to developing a master theory of American culture.
Our knowledge about the interplay between heat and flavor remains incomplete, so it's best not to buy too wholeheartedly into any of the above conclusions. But existing research supports the idea that while a steaming-hot pot on the stove may waft tantalizing smells your way and an ice-cold glass may feel divine on a warm brow, neither is guaranteed to be delicious. If you’re the one cooking, always consider not just how you want something to taste, but what temperature you plan to serve it at. Only then can you compensate accordingly for best results.
Why Serving Temperature Matters for TextureSalmon rillettes should be served lightly chilled, but not so cold that they can't be easily spread on crackers.Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThe presence of fat, in particular, means that serving temperature makes a huge difference in a food's texture. In most cases, we prefer to consume our fats in a liquid state, which allows them to be dispersed evenly throughout our food, lending flavor and juiciness to each bite. Unsaturated fats, most commonly associated with plant-derived foods, are liquid at room temperature and solidify when chilled. Meanwhile, saturated fats, the kind that exist mostly in animal products, are solid at room temperature and need a higher dose of heat to melt.
We need our lamb chops, burgers, and duck breast to be heated beyond room temp, and remain that hot, not just to ensure that the meat is safe to eat but to warm those fats sufficiently that they liquefy and lubricate every mouthful. The fats in our favorite vegan-friendly dips and spreads, though—think guacamole, peanut butter, and hummus—achieve that desirably luscious state at room temp.
There are exceptions to the above dichotomy. Certain forms of meat, such as charcuterie, are typically served cold enough that the fat remains in a semi-solid state—though even charcuterie and salumi, generally speaking, shouldn't be eaten straight out of the fridge. You'll want your soppressata at a temperature where the fat in it will melt on your tongue, not on the serving tray, and your rillettes should be just warm enough to be spreadable.
Food Safety: An InterludeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikIf you're a regular reader of our guides to sous vide cooking, if you've ever handled food for a living, or if you're just a seasoned and well-informed cook, you likely know that the FDA considers temperatures between 40 and 140°F (4 and 60°C) the "danger zone" for bacterial growth, and thus foodborne illness. The commonly repeated dual mantra in food-safety guidance is "Keep hot foods hot!" and "Keep cold foods cold!"
Is there any place in such a starkly defined landscape for the softer, blurred edges of a room-temperature tortilla española or lukewarm sautéed broccoli rabe? Does this mean good-bye to the days of happily picking over a wheel of soft Brie for hours at a spring picnic?
If you want to follow food-safety regulations to the letter, you do have a little wiggle room. The FDA recommends leaving food unrefrigerated for no longer than two hours, and no longer than one hour if it's hotter than 90°F (32°C) out. That's not much, but it'll give you time to get through a lazy glass of wine or two before you have to put the chicken salad back on ice.
On the other hand, while it'd be wildly irresponsible of me to suggest that you take risks with your or your loved ones' health, you may already be taking them anyway. It's called eating in restaurants, where, despite mandatory ServSafe training and inspections, professional cooks know that flavor is king and food safety is...something to be fudged a little when the Department of Health isn't looking.
Sushi restaurants, for instance, frequently buck up against health regulations, not just because raw fish is typically not served ice-cold, but also because room temperature is considered ideal for sumeshi, or vinegared sushi rice. That's not an ingredient that's as obviously risky in our eyes as, say, shellfish, but the FDA doesn't make that distinction.
As a home cook, regardless of whether you're conscious of it, you probably are used to dancing around the border between what's safe and what's not, making judgment calls based on the food in question, who you're cooking for, and how tragic it'd be to miss out on the last few bites. It's wise to know the risks you're assuming with that approach, weigh them against the benefits, and proceed accordingly. Okay—disclaimer over.
Foods That Are Better at Room TempSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis is by no means an exhaustive list, and because perceptions of flavor and texture are so subjective, there's no single best temperature for serving a particular food (more on that below). But if you're entertaining a group and want to improve your chances of knocking their socks off—with some planning, but precisely no extra effort, required—consider allowing the following foods to come to room temp before serving:
Many dips, such as salsa, guacamole, and hummus. Despite the online brouhaha, it really is okay to store your fully ripe tomatoes in the refrigerator, as long as you bring them to room temperature before you use them. A salsa that includes raw tomatoes, such as pico de gallo, will consequently also be more flavorful when served at room temperature, even if previously refrigerated. The acid in many salsas—from tomatoes, vinegar, and/or lime juice—also acts as a preservative, helping them stay safe to eat at room temperature for longer.
Guacamole and hummus are both best served immediately after making, but if you're serving store-bought, or if you must chill them for later, let them come to room temperature before serving. Of course, all dips that depend on melted cheese, like fondue or queso, ought to be served fresh and hot.
Cheese should always sit for about an hour outside the fridge before it's served. Soft cheeses, like Brie, need that time to take on their proper half-runny (or fully runny) consistency, but the flavor of even semi-firm or hard cheeses benefits when you take the chill off. Let them sit out too long, though (especially if they're thinly sliced), and they can start to sweat.
Sasha, who managed the cheese program at one of the restaurants where he worked before Serious Eats, reports that before service each night, he'd set out a calculated quantity of cheese, based on the reservation count, in a relatively cool spot well away from busy cooking stations. Follow his lead by slicing up only the cheese you and your guests will eat and keeping it far from the heat of the kitchen.
You don't need us to tell you that baked goods are better at room temperature than they are cold, and best of all hot from the oven. But many people still make the mistake of refrigerating breads, pastries, and cakes for storage, then not letting them return to room temperature before serving.
Refrigeration of baked goods accelerates staling, so it should only be employed to harden the crumb coat on a cake or prepare it for transportation (chilled buttercream will lock the layers of a cake in place, preventing them from sliding back and forth in a moving car), or if you're working on a really fancy wedding cake that will require several hours to decorate. And it can take a very long time to bring a chilled cake back to life so that the butter in it feels smooth and creamy, not waxy and dense; Stella recommends eight to 12 hours for an eight-inch layer cake. Don't mistreat the coconut cake you ushered into this world by serving it cold. Get yourself a nice cake stand, pop a cake dome (or inverted pot or mixing bowl) over that baby, keep it on display where it belongs, and eat it up or give it away within a couple of days.
Not only are pies best unrefrigerated, they shouldn't be stored, period, for longer than necessary, as the crust will slowly absorb moisture and turn soggy. But that's especially true for pumpkin and sweet potato pies, whose heady blends of spices will start to fade over time. The cold temperature of a fridge will only exacerbate that phenomenon.
Chocolate-covered strawberries or truffles. Chocolate is best consumed at temperatures approaching its melting point, which is roughly body temperature; it takes on a waxy feel if it's served much colder than that, and its flavor is dulled.
Foods That Are Better at...Somewhere Just Above or Below Room TempSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltServing temperature is a spectrum, not a finite set of distinct categories. Some dishes do better closer to the ends of that spectrum, though not necessarily at the extremes of ice-cold or steaming-hot. To wit:
- Many pasta dishes, including carbonara, cacio e pepe, and pesto pasta, shouldn't be served piping-hot, in order to avoid breaking the emulsion that forms the sauce. Aim for a serving temperature you'd describe as "very warm."
As mentioned above, charcuterie and salumi should be served at slightly-cooler-than-room-temp, so the fat doesn't melt as they sit out.
Raw fish, whether in the form of sashimi, poke, or aguachile, should be stored at very cold temperatures to ensure food safety and longevity, but for the best texture, don't serve it ice-cold.
Because levels of bacterial growth depend on both temperature and time, you can keep some raw fish above fridge-level temps for a short period with little risk. If you're feeling ambitious, check out table A-2 in this document from the FDA, which lists how long fish can be held in various temperature ranges before dangerous bacteria begin to multiply. Your best protection against getting sick from raw fish is to buy it as fresh as possible and store it as cold as possible.
Science Isn't EverythingI've mentioned this twice already, once obliquely and once directly, and the sketchiness of some of the research I've cited goes some way toward underscoring the point. But just to eliminate any doubt: Taste is highly subjective, so the "ideal" serving temperature for a given food will always be subjective, too. Our cultures, traditions, and individual habits play at least as significant a role as science does. In the US, for instance, it's customary to eat cooked vegetable dishes hot, but in Mediterranean countries, wilted greens and braised artichokes, among other dishes, are often served at room temperature. You may try that out and decide it's not for you. But recognizing that it's a possibility means expanding your culinary repertoire—potentially finding along the way that the flavor of some of your favorite dishes actually improves—and that can't be a bad thing.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezGraham crackers have been a mainstay of the American pantry since 1829, when Sylvester Graham, a Presbyterian minister, came up with the eponymous whole wheat cracker. The original crackers were without fat, sugar, and salt, and the cardboard-like concoction was meant to discourage immoral thoughts—and very, very different from the sweetened graham crackers we know and love today, luckily for us. They are essential in s’mores and, when crumbled and tossed with butter, make excellent crusts for cheesecakes and dessert bars. They also make a great snack (one that our ultramarathoning editor, Rochelle, swears by for carbo-loading). But not all graham crackers are made the same.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo find the very best graham crackers, we tasted seven different brands you’re likely to find online or at your local supermarket. We sampled each without knowing which graham cracker was which, and after our editors tasted their way through seven different crackers, we tabulated the results and crowned an overall winner we’d be happy to bring to our own campfires, plus one other worthy contender.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe CriteriaA good graham cracker should have a hint of earthiness from whole wheat flour; it should taste relatively wholesome, without reminding you of sawdust or cardboard. It should be nicely crisp and sturdy, but not so tough that it’s difficult to break easily with your teeth. There should be a subtle sweetness; notes of honey, molasses, or vanilla are welcome, but should not be overpowering. Graham crackers should be just thick enough to sandwich a s’more, but not so thick that they’re impossible to bite into.
The Contenders* 365 Organic Honey Graham Crackers * Annie’s Organic Graham Crackers * Bowl and Basket Sugar Honey Graham Crackers * Favorite Day Honey Flavored Graham Crackers * Honey Maid Graham Crackers * Nabisco Grahams Original * Wegman’s Honey Graham Crackers
Overall WinnerNabisco Grahams OriginalOur editorial director, Daniel, thought these tasted “classic,” and described them as “airy and crisp.” Similarly, our associate editorial director, Megan, thought these had a “solid graham cracker texture” and were “nicely crispy.” Our senior social media editor, Kelli, detected a “hint of warming spices,” which likely came from the molasses. Though Megan found them slightly bland, she appreciated that they weren’t too sweet. “It’s fine! It needs marshmallows and chocolate,” she wrote. But then again, don’t all graham crackers?
Runner UpFavorite Day Honey Flavored Graham CrackersOur editors enjoyed the honeyed notes of these crackers; Daniel once again thought these tasted “classic.” Though Kelli enjoyed the flavor of these crackers, she found them a bit too crumbly: “I took a bite and the whole cracker disintegrated onto my shirt.” Other tasters, however, liked their crispiness.
In ConclusionWith the exception of one brand, which tasted stale and had a burnt aftertaste, most of the graham crackers we tried were pretty good. Our winner, Nabisco Classic Grahams, was the only brand we tried that did not contain honey; the crackers are instead sweetened with both sugar and molasses. All other brands contained sugar and honey and/or molasses.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
Because graham crackers are usually a vessel or an accompaniment for other sweets—either as a crust or a vehicle for s’mores—the quality of the cracker you use may not be as important as the quality of the ingredients you pair with them, such as your pie filling or chocolate and marshmallows for s’mores. If you’re planning on cooking or baking with graham crackers, you’re likely to be satisfied with whichever brand you choose. If you plan on eating the crackers on their own, though, you might want a more flavorful cracker to snack on, like our winners, Nabisco Classic Grahams and Favorite Day Honey Flavored Graham Crackers.
Our Testing MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted with brands completely hidden and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample one first, while taster B will taste sample six first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation possible.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgorePresidents Day is just around the corner, but you don’t have to wait for the long weekend to enjoy great deals on kitchen gear. As experts who test kitchen equipment year-round, we like to watch the ever-fluctuating prices of the best Dutch ovens, stainless steel skillets, pizza ovens, and more. Naturally, we couldn’t help but notice that top kitchen gear is discounted at Williams Sonoma’s early Presidents Day sale. Right now, you can save up to $277 on a Staub Dutch oven, All-Clad stainless steel pan, Cuisinart food processor, and other favorites.
Le Creuset 6.75-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Round Wide Dutch OvenWilliams SonomaLe Creuset’s Dutch oven has been our top pick for years. The cast iron provides excellent heat retention and distribution to produce tender pork shoulder and flavorful stews. During our tests, the strong enamel didn’t chip once despite being knocked with a metal spoon. This extra-wide Dutch oven is ideal for larger batches of food and can roast a whole chicken. Plus, it’s $150 off.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyLe Creuset 8-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Oval Dutch OvenWilliams SonomaThis oval Dutch oven brings a new shape to a Le Creuset classic. The wide looped handles provide a firm grip and the ergonomic knob helps you lift the lid on and off. The oven’s length is great for baking loaves of bread or roasting beef tenderloin.
Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Sauteuse PanWilliams SonomaA sauteuse pan offers rounded, sloped sides that promote smooth stirring for seafood pasta or creamy risottos. This one from Le Creuset is on rare sale for $150 off and has the same durable cast iron build as our favorite Dutch oven from the brand.
All-Clad D3 Tri-Ply Stainless Steel Fry PanWilliams SonomaAn essential in the kitchen, stainless steel skillets can fry eggs, sauté greens, soften onions, and much more. Over the years, All-Clad has continued to make some of our favorite stainless steel cookware, including this frying pan that excels at searing pork chops. The tri-ply construction ensures that food is uniformly cooked, while the ergonomic handle is comfortable to hold.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikAll-Clad D3 Tri-Ply Stainless Steel SaucepanWilliams SonomaAll-Clad also makes this splurge-worthy saucepan that’s heat-responsive and easy to clean. Its even cooking surface produces perfectly browned butter and smooth pastry cream. Grab it while it’s $50 off.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinCuisinart 14-Cup Food ProcessorWilliams SonomaOf the 21 food processors we’ve tested, this one from Cuisinart continues to be one of our top picks. It makes quick work of slicing and grating cheese and can knead dough without a problem. It’s also quiet and has a simple two-button control system.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonStaub Enameled Cast Iron Round Dutch OvenWilliams SonomaAnother Dutch oven we’ve used and loved for years is this Staub cocotte with a black enameled interior that’s virtually impossible to stain. The cast iron heats incredibly well to deeply sear meats and the tight-fitting lid creates perfectly reduced braises. Right now, it’s $160 off.
Staub Enameled Cast Iron Traditional Deep SkilletWilliams SonomaStaub makes one of our favorite lightweight enameled cast iron skillets. This similar option with deeper sides offers more space for baking, roasting, or even deep frying. (Homemade beignets, anybody?) The higher sides also keep foods from splashing out of the pan while you stir.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayStaub Enameled Cast Iron Grill PanWilliams SonomaWhen it comes to grill pans, this enameled one from Staub is one of our top picks thanks to its ability to leave deep char marks. It cleans up easily due to the slick enamel coating and has an ergonomic handle that’s comfortable to hold.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerGlobal Classic Vegetable KnifeWilliams SonomaNakiri knives are a vegetable lover’s dream, and this one from Global can smoothly slice through even the thickest sweet potato. Its super sharp blade cleanly cleaves produce and the dimpled handle adds extra stability.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyCuisinart Griddler Grill, Griddle, and Panini PressWilliams SonomaFor a satisfying pressed sandwich that won’t break the bank, this Cuisinart electric griddle will do the trick. Already a budget pick, it’s now even more affordable at $70. It’s easy to clean, has reversible plates, and has a top that rotates 180° to convert the press into a countertop griddle.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerCuisinart Indoor Pizza OvenWilliams SonomaNow’s the time to grab an indoor pizza oven while it’s too cold to set foot outside. Our budget pick from Cuisinart produces noticeable charring on pizza bottoms and churns out fluffy pies. The temperature dial is intuitive to navigate and it can reach an impressive 725°F.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreLe Creuset Enameled Cast Iron 7-Piece Essential Cookware SetWilliams SonomaIf you’re a burgeoning Le Creuset enthusiast, this discounted set of essentials includes our favorite Dutch oven and braiser, plus a long grill pan and French oven. Right now, the set is $277 off in every color at Williams Sonoma.
GE Profile Opal 2.0 Ultra Nugget Ice Maker With Side TankWilliams SonomaWhile it’s still a tad too chilly to be thinking about iced drinks, it is worth grabbing this nugget ice maker on sale. It’s exceptionally efficient at making ice, yielding just over a pound of ice per hour. We’ve found that it produces enough ice to last an entire dinner party and appreciate its useful self-cleaning cycle.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWhy We’re the Experts* An Uong is a writer for Serious Eats. * An has been testing kitchen gear for Serious Eats for over two years. * She loves a good sale, especially when it comes to kitchen equipment.
Serious Eats / Robbie LozanoWhenever I visit my family in Louisiana, I must stop by Café du Monde in New Orleans or Coffee Call in Baton Rouge for hot, fresh beignets and a cup of café au lait. While some of my Louisiana-based family members like to pick up beignets to eat at home, for me it's essential to eat them on-site so I can get them as fresh out of the fryer as possible, when they are perfectly pillowy and tender.
Serious Eats / Nicole HooperBut now, thanks to this recipe for classic Louisiana-style beignets, I can eat super-fresh, finger-endangeringly hot beignets at home any time. (Well, anytime I am willing to deep-fry at home, which may not be every day, but does happen from time to time.) The recipe, developed by our Birmingham, Alabama-based colleague Nicole Hopper, produces light, airy beignets that have a pleasantly savory and slightly tangy flavor that's complemented by a generous dusting of powdered sugar.
The Best Batter for BeignetsWhile she wasn't trying to create copycat Café du Monde beignets—they have a box mix if you want to do that—Nicole did take inspiration from a few aspects of those famous beignets. "What stood out to me was how the Café du Monde box mix was barely sweet at all and was rather actually quite aggressively salty, and how it had a nice tanginess to it," she says. "So I ended up with a recipe that emulates some of those qualities—it’s lower in sugar than many other beignet recipes, contains more salt, and uses buttermilk." She's right that a well-made beignet is barely sweet—that's what the extremely generous application of powdered sugar after frying is for.
You might notice that some beignet recipes call for cake flour or pastry flour even, but we use a higher protein bread flour instead to give the beignets a chewy-yet-tender texture with just the right amount of airiness: A great beignet should have a puffed and airy interior made of up many medium-size air bubbles interspersed with a tender and elastic crumb, and not one giant air bubble surrounded by sections of dense dough. This dough made with bread flour is strong enough to have the airy and open texture inside we want in a beignet vs. the slightly denser texture of a yeasted doughnut. And while you can use regular milk instead of buttermilk to make beignets, in our testing, the version with buttermilk was the unanimous favorite for its very slight tanginess.
Beignets and beignet fingers at Coffee Call in Baton RougeSerious Eats / Megan O. SteintragerA Note on Diastatic Malt PowderOur beignet recipe includes optional diastatic malt powder. "Diastatic malt powder might sound like a scary ingredient, but it’s really not," says Nicole. "If you look at the ingredient list on your bag of bread flour, you’ll see “enzymes” listed—this is what diastatic malt is, it just contains additional enzymes that aid in the dough’s fermentation; it gives the dough an extra boost, helping improve structure and texture, and encouraging browning." These enzymes break complex starches down into simpler sugars, and the increase in simple sugars leads to a more aggressive fermentation and better rise (because the yeast has more food to eat), and thus airier results. The uptick in simple sugars in the dough also explains the enhanced browning: Maillard reaction and caramelization are increased with more sugars available for those reactions. While the recipe works perfectly without the diastatic malt powder, Nicole does recommend adding it—and even doubling the recommended amount—if the brand of bread flour you use doesn't have "enzymes" or "malted barley flour" in the ingredient list.
Serious Eats / Robbie LozanoThe Importance of Proofing After you make the lightly sweetened dough for your beignets, you'll let it rise at room temperature for about an hour and then cold-proof it in the fridge for at least eight hours. Then you'll cut the dough into squares before letting it rise again briefly. This multi-step proofing is critical for creating beignets with an open, airy crumb and large, even air pockets.
The long, slow fermentation allows for key transformations to take place: Enzymes break down proteins and starches for improved flavor and browning, gluten strengthens, improving dough elasticity and gas retention, and the handling between proofs redistributes air bubbles, ensuring a more even crumb in the finished beignets. Beignets that fry up with very uneven interior—one or two big air pockets surrounded by dense dough—are likely the result of a rushed fermentation and insufficient handling, which prevents proper gas distribution. Plus, the long proof allows the flavors to develop—beignets we tested with a shorter proof had a one-note yeasty flavor. The wet and sticky dough is also much easier to roll and cut when chilled. And there's one more benefit to the slow eight-hour cold-proofing step: "It makes it easier to have warm freshly fried beignets for breakfast without having to wake up ungodly early," says Nicole.
The trickiest part is determining when the cut dough squares are adequately proofed that final time and ready for the fryer, since they won't have an obvious visual cue like doubling in size. They should be puffy and the dough should spring back slightly when poked, but the best way to test is to just fry one. If the dough does not float to the surface within two seconds of adding it to the oil, it’s not ready yet. If this happens, continue proofing the dough, testing in five-minute increments first with the poke test and then frying until a better result is achieved.
Serious Eats / Robbie LozanoThe Best Oil for Frying Beignets While Café du Monde uses cottonseed oil for frying, it's not widely available for home cooks, so we chose peanut oil, which is easy to find in grocery stores, affordable, has a high smoke point, and does not impart any unwanted flavor to the beignets. If you don’t have peanut oil, safflower oil, corn oil, and sunflower oil would all work.
While frying beignets does require a lot of oil, you don't need to throw it away. After it has cooled, strain it through cheesecloth and store it in an airtight container. You can reuse it two to three more times, as long as you haven't fried anything particularly fragrant in it. (For example, we don't recommend frying fish or seafood and then beignets.)
Techniques for Frying Light, Crisp BeignetsOnce you've shaped your beignets and they've been through their final rise, it's time to fry those bad boys. Don't be tempted to chuck them all in the hot oil at once. Instead, work in batches of three to six beignets to avoid overcrowding, which will cause the hot oil to drop in temperature—a guaranteed recipe for greasy-feeling, leaden beignets. In terms of temperature, Nicole tested frying at temperatures between 350°F and 375°F and found that 365°F was the sweet spot. Below 360°F, the dough absorbed too much oil and the beignets seemed greasier and less crisp; above 370°F, the puffing was less controlled.
Use a digital thermometer (ideally a probe-style with a pot clip) to keep an eye on the oil's temperature as you cook and adjust as needed to keep it in the desired zone.
Beignets and café au lait with chicory at Café du Monde in New OrleansSerious Eats / Megan O. SteintragerDon't Hold Back on the Powdered Sugar
Any good beignet spot not only dusts the beignets with powdered sugar but also provides shakers of more powdered sugar to apply as you eat. I personally like to shake some directly into the beignet after I take my first bite and I sometimes give it another shake before the last bite, but you may choose to be more moderate than me in your powdered sugar application. However, I will ask you this before you decide: If you don't have photographic evidence of your dark-colored clothes completely covered in white sugar, have you really even eaten beignets?
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment, mix water and 1 teaspoon (4g) granulated sugar until sugar is dissolved. Sprinkle yeast over surface and set aside until foamy, 5 to 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Robbie LozanoAdd buttermilk and egg, whisking to combine, followed by flour, salt, baking powder, diastatic malt powder (if using), and 3 tablespoons (38g) sugar. Fit stand mixer with dough hook attachment and mix on medium-low speed until dough begins to come together, about 3 minutes. Add butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, making sure each piece is incorporated before adding the next, until fully incorporated, about 1 minute. Increase speed to medium and continue beating until dough is strong and elastic, about 10 minutes, stopping to scrape down bowl with dough scraper as needed. (Dough will be sticky and will not clear sides of bowl.)
Serious Eats / Robbie LozanoUsing a dough scraper, scrape down sides of bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and set aside to rise at warm room temperature (72 to 78ºF; 22 to 25ºC) until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Robbie LozanoUsing damp hands, gently deflate dough. Cover and refrigerate at least 8 hours or up to 18 hours.
Serious Eats / Robbie LozanoTransfer dough to a well-floured work surface. Pat dough into a rectangle, sprinkle lightly with additional flour, then roll out to an 18- by 12-inch rectangle, about 1/4- to 1/3-inch thick. Using a pizza cutter or sharp knife, cut dough into 2- by 2 1/2–inch rectangles, spacing them at least 1/2-inch apart to prevent them from sticking to each other. (You should have about 36 rectangles.) Cover with plastic wrap and let rise until puffy and dough springs back slightly when touched, about 40 minutes and up to 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Robbie LozanoFill a large Dutch oven or large pot with 3 inches of oil and heat over medium-high until oil registers 365ºF (185ºC) on an instant-read thermometer. Line a 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet with paper towels, set a wire rack inside, and place next to stove.
Serious Eats / Robbie LozanoWorking in batches of 3 to 6, carefully add dough portions to hot oil, sliding them in from as close to the oil’s surface as possible to minimize splashing. Fry, using a spider strainer or slotted spoon to turn beignets occasionally, until deep golden brown and puffed, about 2 minutes. Transfer beignets to prepared wire rack. Repeat with remaining dough portions, adjusting heat as needed to maintain oil between 360 and 365ºF (182 to 185ºC).
Serious Eats / Robbie LozanoDust beignets generously with powdered sugar and serve warm.
Serious Eats / Robbie LozanoSpecial EquipmentStand mixer, dough scraper, plastic wrap, pizza cutter or sharp knife, large Dutch oven or large pot, 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet, wire rack, deep-fry or probe thermometer, spider strainer or slotted spoon
Make Ahead and StorageBeignets really are best when freshly made, but in a pinch leftovers (preferably unsugared) can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days. They reheat well in an air fryer. Sprinkle with powdered sugar just before serving.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOn the rare occasion when my husband and I actually have time to enjoy an intimate, special dinner, I love cooking dishes like this fun, retro steak Diane: It’s elegant, full flavored, and table-ready in less than a half hour. With so little time investment here, it also means I’m free to prepare any number of sides, as simple or as fancy as I please. There’s no shortage of sides it pairs with for an impressive meal—some of my favorites are a simple tossed salad, baked or mashed potatoes, and sautéed spinach.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSteak cooked Diane-style has come to mean sautéing filet mignon in butter and then flambéing and basting it in a luxe cognac sauce. Its history is debated, with possible origins in London, Belgium, and New York City. The "Diane" part refers to Diana, the Greco-Roman goddess of the hunt, and "à la Diane" sauces were typically served with venison and other game meats in London restaurants in the early 1900s. It was probably New York hotels that popularized the flambéed steak version.
My version of steak Diane features a juicy filet mignon with a perfect seared crust topped with a restaurant-quality sauce—it's glossy, brightly flavored, and clings to the meat, leaving a streak of white plate that slowly closes as you swipe each bite of steak through it. The sauce has just the right level of salt and meaty aroma without being greasy. It’s extraordinarily delicious and sure to impress the lucky person you’re sharing it with, and as a bonus, it’s dead simple to make. Here’s how to perfectly execute this steak dinner at home.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCooking the Perfect Filet Mignon for Steak DianeFilet mignon comes from the thinner, most tender end of the tenderloin. The steaks are cut from the small muscle that runs along the back half of the inside edge of the cow's spine. It is, as the name implies, extremely tender—a major part of their appeal for intimate special-occasion meals. They are also the most expensive cut of beef in the supermarket, so you don't want to mess them up.
The difficulty in cooking filets mignon, or any cut of the tenderloin, is that they contain very little intramuscular fat. As a result, they are relatively flavorless compared to well-marbled steak cuts such as ribeye or strip steak. While a plain filet mignon might lack flavor, its mildness makes it the perfect canvas for a rich, intensely flavored pan sauce.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLess fat in the meat also means less insulation from heat penetration, and thus a greater chance of overcooking the lean meat and turning it from tender to tough. The first step to ensuring the most flavorful, tender meat possible is dry-brining the steaks. Dry-brining is our preferred method for seasoning both large and small pieces of meat. This process, in which the protein is liberally salted and refrigerated for an extended period of time, is particularly beneficial for lean, relatively bland proteins like beef tenderloin, which has a tendency to dry out when exposed to high heat. Along with producing juicy, flavorful results, dry-brining also helps us get better Maillard browning by extracting excess moisture from the beef before searing for a crispier crust.
Another key technique used in this recipe to guarantee a juicy filet mignon is to use Serious Eats' time-tested perfect pan-seared steaks technique. It’s simple and straightforward, just what you want when cooking a special meal for two. As described above, the steaks are liberally salted and left to sit for at least 40 minutes before they’re seared over ripping high heat in a cast iron, carbon steel, or stainless steel pan, flipping every two minutes to ensure even cooking and a deeply browned crust. But as the saying goes, “many roads lead to Rome,” and I’ll point out that you can adapt this recipe to use your own preferred cooking method, such as our reverse-seared, butter-basted, or sous vide steak recipes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOnce the steaks are cooked, set them aside on a plate to rest while preparing the accompanying sauce. You might be tempted to tent them with aluminum foil to keep them warm, but don’t. Tenting the steaks will only trap steam and soften that beautiful crust on the steaks that you worked hard to create. Instead, let the steak sit untouched and uncovered.
How to Make a Fine Dining–Quality Sauce for Steak DianeYou should expect nothing less than a perfect, velvety, richly flavored, restaurant-quality sauce with this recipe. If in the past you've ever noticed that your homemade pan sauces don’t live up to the glossy, smooth, emulsified texture you get in restaurants, it's likely due to the quality of the stock or broth you’re using. Starting the sauce with a homemade stock that’s rich with gelatin—the stock should jiggle like jelly when cold—is the best way to ensure this. But if you’re starting with store-bought broth, which many of us do, the sauce will lack that crucial gelatin content that creates a rich, velvety texture.
If you're not up for brewing a whole potful of gelatin-rich broth, we have a tried and true Serious Eats pan sauce trick for you: Simply bloom some powdered gelatin in store-bought broth—one teaspoon in this recipe will do the trick. A quick simmer and a few pats of butter later, you'll have a mouth-coating pan sauce with a restaurant-quality texture.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen eaten at a restaurant, a large part of steak Diane’s charm is the tableside flambéing of the cognac sauce before it is poured over the filets. While it's fun when dining out, I say let’s leave fire to the professionals and avoid the risk of setting off your smoke detector while you're making a special meal. So instead of flambéeing, I choose to add the cognac off heat, and with the broth, to avoid any flare-ups. Then the sauce is returned to the heat to simmer and reduce, allowing any residual harsh alcohol flavor to evaporate.
Whether you’re cooking steak Diane for Valentine’s day, Galentine’s day, or any special occasion, this recipe is sure to impress—just don’t tell anyone how easy it was to make.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPat steaks dry with paper towels. Season liberally with salt. Allow to rest at room temperature for at least 40 minutes and up to 2 hours. Alternatively, place on a plate or on a wire rack over a baking sheet in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf using store-bought broth, in a liquid measuring cup combine stock and cognac and sprinkle gelatin over the top. Set aside.
In a 10-inch stainless steel, cast iron, or carbon steel skillet, heat oil over high heat until smoking. Season steaks all over with pepper, add to pan, and cook, flipping with tongs every 2 minutes until well browned on all sides (including edges, which you can sear by holding steaks sideways with tongs) and the internal temperature has reached 110°F (43°C) for rare or 130°F (54°C) for medium (steak will continue to cook for a bit afterward), 6 to 12 minutes total, depending on thickness. Transfer steaks to a plate; set aside while preparing sauce. Do not wipe skillet.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn now-empty skillet, reduce heat to low and melt 1 tablespoon butter. Add shallot and cook until translucent, about 1 minute. Remove skillet from heat and add stock or broth (or gelatin mixture if using store-bought broth), cognac, Worcestershire, and any accumulated meat juices from plate. Return skillet to medium-high heat and bring to boil, scraping up any browned bits. Cook until reduced to 1/2 cup, 5 to 7 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOff heat, whisk in half of chives, mustard, and remaining 2 tablespoons butter, until fully incorporated. Transfer filets to individual serving plates and spoon sauce over top. Sprinkle with remaining chives and serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment10-inch stainless-steel, cast iron, or carbon steel skillet, tongs
NotesAn equivalent total weight of bone-in or boneless ribeye or strip steak, porterhouse, T-bone, tenderloin, hanger, or flank steak can be used in place of filet mignon. Try to get steaks at least 1 1/2 inches thick. If using a thinner cut of steak, shorten cooking time accordingly.
If using store-bought broth, add 1 teaspoon powdered gelatin to the broth and cognac and let sit while cooking the steaks. The gelatin will add body to the broth and final sauce that store-bought broth lacks.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe steak and sauce are best enjoyed right away.
Serious Eats / Eric BrockobWhen I moved away for college and my parents sold their Chinese restaurant, I felt overwhelmed. How was I going to replicate any of my favorite familiar dishes without the budget, storage space, or access to Asian restaurant supply stores? But I gave it a shot and I can assure you it’s far more doable than you might believe.
A Chinese kitchen only requires a few foundational pieces, many of which can be used for multiple types of cuisines or ingredients. So whether you want to master dumplings, from-scratch sauces, hot pot favorites, dry-fry dishes, fried rice, or noodles, these are the tools you’ll need.
Essential Chinese Cooking GearA Rice CookerWhen I was growing up, my mom would make family-style mains and each of us would have our own bowl of rice. One of my favorite anecdotes is when my then-baby brother wasn’t given any when we sat down for lunch. He asked, “If we don’t have our rice, how will we know when we’re done [with the meal]?” My mom laughed at this, but it shows what a staple rice is in Chinese culture.
A rice cooker makes cooking rice easy. The best bang for your buck is a mid-level model with multiple pre-set programs like the Hamilton Beach Programmable Rice Cooker, which won our review. It excels at making a basic bowl of white rice as well as other styles, like brown or short-grain rice. If you want even more control, check out our splurge pick from Zojirushi: It has sensors that can detect moisture levels and recalibrate for ideal steam release, as well as 10 settings, including white rice, sushi rice, mixed rice, and sweet rice.
A Carbon Steel WokI've tried to make do with a large skillet instead of a wok, but stir-fried vegetables leaped overboard with abandon. A wok’s high walls keep food contained and create various heat zones so you can accommodate different cooking times and ingredients. For instance, when I cook chicken and broccoli, I’ll move the broccoli up the slope of the wok to keep it from getting overcooked while the chicken sears at the base. A wok also lets you grease the cooking surface by drizzling oil down the sides and redistributing it by splashing it back up instead of having to constantly add more.
Carbon steel woks, like our winner from Yosukata, are the traditional and greatly preferred choice of Chinese cooks everywhere. Like cast iron, they get better with time, becoming more slick and nonstick. They’re also relatively affordable, lightweight, and conduct heat well.
You’ll want one with a long handle—a Northern-style wok—as it keeps your hand a safe distance from the hot pan. And unless you have a wok ring, a flat-bottomed wok is your best bet.
A Tall Stock PotSoups and braises are a large part of Chinese culinary heritage. At my parents' restaurant, a permanent fixture on the kitchen line was an enormous pot filled with the from-scratch bone broth that formed the basis of every sauce. Beyond broth and stock, a large stock pot is also useful for soaking, swirling, and cleaning large quantities of leafy greens (and boiling noodles!).
In our review of stock pots, we liked options with wide handles, even heating, and sturdy construction—our winner from Cuisinart had all of these qualities, making for a versatile piece of cookware.
Serious Eats/ Vicky WasikA Set of Metal Mixing BowlsChinese cooking often involves rinsing and chopping large amounts of leafy greens—so a set of metal mixing bowls is super useful. I also use them to soak ingredients like dried rice noodles, black mushrooms, and sheets of tofu skin or seaweed. Plus, having big prep bowls handy keeps counters clear and dry, ingredients organized, and your sink available. Metal prep bowls are lighter than glass and easier to keep clean. Our favorite bowls from Vollrath are durable, roomy, and great for mixing tasks big and small.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyA Chuan SpatulaA wok chuan spatula is subtly curved to follow a wok’s sides. Good wok chuans have an ultra-thin, sharp lip that can cut ingredients while cooking, as well as tiny side walls to scoop, cup, and toss large quantities of bite-sized food. When looking for a wok chuan, make sure the handle isn’t too long, which can make it difficult to control. And while a metal chuan is traditional, I prefer a silicone chuan, like this one from Staub, for its ease of use, flexibility, heat resistance, and low cost.
A Sharp Chinese CleaverIf you want to get serious about Chinese cooking, a Chinese cleaver is a must. They’re great for cutting meats into bite-sized pieces, mincing garlic and chives for dumplings, chopping leaves, and tenderizing proteins using the blunt edge. These square cleavers are light, thin, nimble, and were the only knives in my dad’s arsenal at the peak of his chef career; he had one for meat and another for veggies. Bonus: They’re relatively inexpensive.
Shorter blades and handles, like that on our winning Tojiro Chinese Cleaver, offer more control and easier storage. You also want a razor-thin sharp edge, like on the CCK Small Cleaver KF1303. It’s made of carbon steel for impressive sharpness but does require more care than stainless steel and is more prone to chipping.
A Wooden Cutting BoardAlthough they can be very expensive, thick, wooden butcher block-style cutting boards were the default at my parents’ restaurant. It was always years before they had to be replaced. A good wooden cutting board will resist warping and splitting. Look for a hardwood board with an end-grain pattern, which is gentle on knives but also super durable. We’ve long loved the Boardsmith Maple End-Grain Cutting Board for these qualities.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyA Sturdy Set of TongsNo matter what type of cuisine you’re cooking, kitchen tongs are one of the most useful tools you can have. When it comes to Chinese dishes, tongs are great for stir-frying noodles, grabbing chunks of meat, taking delicate things like soup dumplings out of steamer baskets, tossing ingredients in marinade, and velveting proteins. Plus, since Chinese meals are typically family-style, they’re great for easy serving. A good set of tongs, like our longtime winner from OXO, gives you a great grip on your food (even slippery dumplings), locks easily for storage, and is sensitive to pressure and easy to hold.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerA Fine Mesh StrainerThe great news is that this is one of those tools you’ll likely already have at home. In Chinese cooking, a fine mesh strainer is used for skimming soup, rinsing rice, fishing out wontons, and draining noodles and blanched vegetables. In our review, we liked strainers with rounded handles and hooks, which let you rest the strainer over a bowl. Our favorite is the sturdy offering from Rösle, while the OXO is a good budget-friendly alternative.
Serious Eats / Eric KingA Mini Whisk for SaucesThe secret to great, thick, viscous American Chinese sauces is using a sauce concentrate and broth and mixing in a thickening slurry of water and cornstarch—and a mini whisk is perfect for the job. Our winner from Kuhn Rikon offers control and speed and can get into corners easily. When looking for a mini whisk, be careful not to go too small, since novelty-sized ones will put your hands too close to the heat if you’re using it to cook a sauce in a pot or wok.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubA Bunch of Squeeze Bottles If you love Graza’s concept of easy-squeeze olive oil, here’s the hack I’ve been using for years: Just buy a few squeeze bottles. I love the accuracy they lend, letting me drape my cooking oil around the wok’s walls. At my parents’ restaurant, we used them to hold and dispense thicker sauces, like oyster sauce and hoisin, that are essential to many Chinese recipes. They’re also unbeatable for finishing touches like drizzling a thicker sauce, such as spicy mayo, on top of a dish.
When looking for squeeze bottles, you want speed but also control—no one wants a gush of oil when you are looking for a drizzle. We liked the Tablecraft Clear Heavy-Duty Squeeze Bottles, which have narrower tips that make dispensing easy and controlled. Plus, you can always cut the tips so they’re wider, making them better for thicker sauces.
Serious Eats / Amanda SaurezEssential Steaming Supplies A Dowel-Style Rolling PinYou can buy dumpling and wonton wrappers at most Asian grocery stores, but if you want true Northern-style thick-skinned jiaozidumplings, you’ll need to make your own dough. And if you want to make baozi, mantou, scallion pancakes, and the like, you won’t get far without a dowel rolling pin. Dowel rolling pins are great because they’re lightweight but still have the heft to flatten dough. They also make perfect rounds faster and more consistently than other kinds, too. Our top pick from J.K. Adams has a rough wood finish, which prevents dough from sticking.
Serious Eats / Eric KingA Bamboo SteamerBamboo steamers are useful for more than just dumplings, dim sum, siu mai, soup dumplings, stuffed baozi, or bakcang. You can also gently steam vegetables and protein.
The thicker the weave, the better the steam retention, but you don’t want the lid to fit too snuggly since it’ll expand when heated. In our review, we liked the multi-tier steamer from Hcooker, which had steel bands that prevented the layers from warping, and multiple tightly woven tiers that cooked food perfectly.
Parchment Paper or Air Fryer LinersSteaming buns or dumplings directly on the floor of your bamboo steamer is a surefire way to tear those precious packets of food apart. Traditionally, folks have used cabbage or lettuce leaves to line bamboo steamers, but I also like to use pre-cut perforated parchment paper or these air fryer liners.
A Steamer Basket A steamer basket like the OXO Good Grips Silicone Steamer can turn any lidded cookware into a steaming vessel. Just make sure to get one tall enough so the water beneath it won’t soak your food.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerA Circular Metal Steaming RackSimilar to the above, when paired with a pot with a lid, a circular metal steamer rack can also become an adequate substitute for a bamboo steamer in a pinch. A metal rack can turn into an elevated platform to lift, say, a bowl of saucy steamed black bean ribs, savory steamed eggs, or ginger and scallion fish. Another benefit of having a metal steaming rack, though, is that you can also use it for smoking by putting a packet of wood chips underneath. The round vents of the DS Distinctive Style Steamer Rack offer more stability for items like dumplings since you can line them with parchment paper. It’s also small enough to fit in many standard pots.
Hot Dish TongsIf you’re steaming saucy dishes or traditional platters like the ones mentioned above, a set of hot dish tongs is an absolute necessity. Kitchen tongs can’t get under plates on a steamer rack and they don’t offer enough stability if you need to lift a large or heavy bowl. Stainless steel hot dish tongs adjust to the size of nearly any plate or bowl for easy, safe food retrieval. Look for inverted ends that can scoop the bottom of the rim of the dishware you’re using, which ensures a good grip on the dish.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikTools for Frying, Hot Pot, and Finishing DishesA Wok Draining RackSure, paper towels on a plate or the conventional cookie wire rack are great for holding fried foods. But this wok draining rack, which hooks right onto the wok to let fried foods drain oil back into it, prevents waste and extra dirty dishes. Plus, the heat will keep your fried items from getting cold.
Look for a draining rack witha rainbow shape that fits the diameter of your wok, but that’s not so wide that it covers up too much of the cooking space beneath.
A Spider SpoonSure, you can use tongs, a mesh strainer, or cooking chopsticks to scoop out deep-fried foods but a spider spoon will do the job much more efficiently, allowing maximum amounts of oil to drain while collecting the most amount of food. This tool is also well suited for scooping boiled dumplings, wontons, poached and simmered foods, and hot pot ingredients. While the wooden handles of traditional, cheap brass spider spoons stay cooler, all-stainless ones are easier to clean. We recommend the sleek Hiware Solid Stainless Steel Spider, which is well-proportioned and costs only marginally more. Plus, it’s dishwasher-safe.
A Kitchen Torch for Wok HeiWok hei, that magical flame-kissed quality that makes wok-cooked Chinese food so incredible, is the missing element in most Chinese home cooking. Even my dad, in his retirement, has lamented that it’s impossible to emulate without commercial gas flames rising high up around the wok’s walls.
However, we’ve learned that a powerful kitchen blowtorch can give your stir-frying extra oomph that echoes the breath of the wok. Plus, with a good kitchen torch, you can give homemade Cantonese barbecue the char and sear that baking just can’t replicate. Spot-torching makes for precise work for meat, crisping up reheated Peking or roast duck, and a quick sweep over dishes like lo mein adds a fiery essence.
A good kitchen blowtorch should be multipurpose, intuitive, easy to use one-handed, and produce a consistent flame. Butane and propane fuel are the two options for operation, but butane is more efficient and packaged more compactly. For these reasons, we like the Iwatani PRO2 Culinary Professional Butane Torch, which is trusted by many in the restaurant industry. It’s long-lasting, has a wide, three-inch spread, a reliable trigger starter, and fast, even performance.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikA Hot Pot SetupChinese hot pot became a royal tradition during the Qing dynasty. It’s a form of social cooking during which meat and vegetables are dunked into a simmering broth. The components typically include thinly sliced meats, tofu, leafy greens, tofu, and more. If you want to have a hot pot at home, electric hot pots are easy to set up and clean. I recommend getting one with a divider so you can use different broths. For groups of two to six people, a 12-inch one will work.
Serious EatsFor Setting the TableA Set of Good ChopsticksGreat chopsticks do it all: You can cook and fry with them, eat with them, and break apart meat and veggies. Not bad for an item that can be less than a dollar a pair. Chopsticks come in a wide variety of shapes, lengths, and materials. Chinese chopsticks—as opposed to Japanese and Korean styles—feature longer lengths, less dramatic tapering, and often square tops. Ceramic, metal, wood, and plastic are common materials, but heat-resistant, lightweight fiberglass is my personal favorite. This set from Glamfields is my set of choice, with a perfect 9.5-inch length and comfortable barrel shape. I particularly love the grippy finish on the ends, which is perfect for grasping every slippery, saucy noodle.
Asian Soup SpoonsAsian soup spoons have large capacities for chunky soups and stews and liquidy dishes like mapo tofu. You use them as you would any other spoon for most soups, but if it’s a noodle soup, you’ll want a pair of chopsticks as well. Flat bottoms are best, and hooked tops help keep your spoon from sliding into the bowl.
Rice BowlsAs I mentioned earlier, most dishes at a Chinese meal are served family-style—except for rice. At home, each of us was given a bowl of rice to eat with our meal. Good rice bowls are usually deeper than they are wide and have a two-cup capacity since that’s the size that fits best in a hand. A footed base is nice, too. When getting to the last bit of rice, it’s customary to raise the bowl and use your chopsticks to guide the remaining grains into your mouth. For that reason, you’ll also want a smooth finish on the rim.
Dipping Sauce DishesLook at any set table at a fancy Chinese restaurant and you’ll see small dishes with Chinese hot mustard and chili crisp or chili oil. And for some dishes like dumplings, dipping sauce is practically mandatory. Small condiment dishes and ramekins are essential, and a good dish keeps splashing to a minimum.
You also want a sauce dish that’s deep enough to submerge a bite, but also wide enough that the sauce won’t flow over the edge when you dunk. For that reason, I prefer small ramekins over traditional sauce dishes. However, curved edges are also really great, like the ones on these flared-edge dipping bowls.
Serious Eats / Eric BrockobFAQsWhat are essential tools for Chinese cooking?Many pieces of gear are useful when cooking Chinese dishes. Some top picks include a carbon steel wok, wok chuan spatula, and a solid Chinese cleaver.
What is the most important utensil in a Chinese kitchen? For stir-frying, a chuan spatula is by and large the most essential tool in my kit. A regular turner just doesn’t hug the curves of a wok properly, nor can it toss ingredients with an adequate amount of sauce.
Why We’re the Experts* Su-Jit Lin is a contributor for Serious Eats and has been professionally writing about food for nearly two decades. * Her expertise in Chinese cooking, particularly American Chinese cuisine, stems from a childhood spent in her family’s restaurant on Long Island, New York, where her father and grandfather were chef-owners.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWelcome to the dreariest, darkest, most bone-chilling time of year. We've passed the astronomical milestone of the winter solstice, and while the days are getting longer, the cold weather doesn't seem to have gotten the memo. At this point, I've exhausted my curated lists of cozy foods, hearty stews, and pressure-cooker recipes, so I've spent more recent weeks digging deeper into the archives of what I like to think of as "emotional support" recipes, or what Italians call "cibo che scalda il cuore"—food that warms the heart.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezA pasta dish made for the coldest days of winter, nidi di rodine is generally believed to hail from the tiny republic of San Marino located within Italy. Sheets of fresh pasta are spread with creamy besciamella (the Italian version of béchamel), then layered with pieces of fontina cheese and thin slices of prosciutto cotto and a sprinkle of Parmigiano-Reggiano. The pasta is then rolled up like a jelly roll and sliced into little lasagna roses (rosette). They're said to look like swallows' nests, though that seems like a stretch to me. Variations of these baked pasta roses are also popular in Italy, where they go by different names depending on the region, including rosette Emiliane in Emilia-Romagna and rosette Modenesi in Modena.
If this sounds a bit labor-intensive, don't be deterred—making nidi di rondine is far less complicated than my last rolled-lasagna project, rosette al forno, but equally rewarding. It evokes the winter Alpine tradition of melting cheese on carbs like tartiflette, raclette, and fondue, but it's relatively easy to assemble, and every serving has those crispy edges we all love. Not just the corners, but every piece. And isn't that the best part of lasagna?
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTips and Techniques for Making and Shaping Nidi di RondineThere are just a few details worth knowing before making your own nidi di rondine:
Use the right prosciutto. Most often when people say "prosciutto," they're referring to prosciutto crudo, the uncooked, cured pork leg that's a staple of many charcuterie boards. For this dish, though, we want prosciutto cotto, which translates as "cooked" prosciutto, which is to say, it's really like sliced deli ham: very high-quality, incredibly delicious sliced deli ham. It has a milder, more delicate flavor than its saltier cured cousin, and it handles being cooked well—it's not prone to becoming overly salty and leathery the way cooked prosciutto crudo can.
When it comes to pasta, fresh is best. As with most other lasagna recipes, this dish is best when made with fresh sheets of pasta. You can find it pre-made at specialty markets and higher-end grocery stores. Of course you can also make your own lasagna sheets from scratch, which adds time to the process but allows you to control the size of the sheets even more. The choice is yours, but I generally consider the convenience of store-bought fresh pasta worth it.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCould you use dried lasagna sheets? I haven't tested this specific recipe with it, but I feel fairly certain it would work in a pinch. The key is to avoid overcooking the pasta—very al dente is what you want so your pasta doesn't turn to mush when it's baked. (Also note that no-boil lasagna sheets won't work here, since you need them to be flexible enough to roll during assembly.)
Perfect your besciamella. The besciamella is the foundation of the recipe—the glue, the moisture, and the base for the cheesy sauce. I use Daniel's classic béchamel recipe, which includes the perfect ratios of flour, butter, and milk for this dish. Make sure to cook it long enough to both remove the flour's raw flavor and to give the flour time to properly thicken the milk. In the recipe below, the nutmeg is listed as optional, but I'd strongly recommend using it; it's part of the signature flavor of a classic béchamel, especially one used in dishes like this.
Choose your cheese wisely. This recipe calls for two cheeses, each playing an essential role. Since this dish originates not too far from the Alps, an Alpine-style cheese is the natural choice. You want a semi-hard, meltable cheese with a nutty flavor that isn't overpowering. I recommend real fontina from Valle D'Aosta, but asiago and Gruyère (yes, a Swiss cheese) also work beautifully. The second cheese is Parmigiano-Reggiano, which adds saltiness and a savory-sweet flavor and helps thicken the sauce that forms as the fontina melts into the besciamella. Parmigiano-Reggiano also helps keep the filling—including your prosciutto cotto—from oozing out when the lasagna rolls are sliced into rosettes and arranged in the baking dish. Feel free to sprinkle extra on top—I'm not here to stop you.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf you're still dreaming of sitting inside a snowy winter lodge on a European mountain this winter, this recipe will undoubtedly provide the warm and cozy vibes you're looking for.
For the Besciamella: In a small saucepan, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add flour and whisk to form a paste. Continue to cook, stirring, until raw flour scent is gone, about 1 minute. Whisking constantly, add milk in a thin, steady stream until fully combined. Sauce will initially become very thick, then get very thin once all the milk is added.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezHeat, stirring constantly, until sauce comes to a simmer and begins to thicken slightly. Reduce heat to low and cook until sauce is just thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk in nutmeg, if using. If any lumps form, simply whisk thoroughly or use a handheld blender. Press a piece of plastic wrap over the surface of the sauce to prevent a skin from forming and keep warm until ready to use.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo Cook Pasta: Prepare an ice bath and line a baking sheet with parchment. In a pot of salted boiling water and working in batches, cook pasta until just shy of al dente, about 1 minute for fresh pasta. Using a spider skimmer or mesh strainer, transfer immediately to ice bath to cool. Drain pasta well, then brush each sheet, one at a time, lightly on both sides with vegetable oil to prevent sticking. Lay them on prepared baking sheet, adding layers of parchment between the layers of pasta to prevent sticking.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo Make the Rosette: On a clean work surface, lay one pasta sheet with a short side facing you. Spread 1/4 cup of the besciamella in a thin layer evenly on top of pasta sheet, then sprinkle with about 2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano and pieces of prosciutto and fontina. Starting at the bottom, roll up the layered pasta like a jelly roll. Transfer to a sheet pan seam-side down.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRepeat the process with the remaining pasta sheets, cheese, and sauces to make a total of 5 rolls. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate the rolls until chilled, at least 1 hour or up to 12 hours. Cover remaining besciamella with plastic wrap flush against surface and set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo Assemble and Bake: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Grease a 6- by 9-inch baking dish or 2-quart round casserole with oil. Gently slice each roll in thirds crosswise to make 15 pinwheels.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpread the remaining besciamella on the bottom of the baking dish. Arrange lasagna rolls cut-side up, then sprinkle the remaining Parmigiano on top. Bake, rotating baking dish halfway through, until golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentDutch oven, 6- by 9-inch baking dish or 2-quart round casserole, baking sheet, parchment, spider strainer or mesh strainer
NotesIf you can’t find prosciutto cotto, you can substitute American-style ham steak, just make sure to use a lighter hand while seasoning both the besciamella and pasta cooking water with salt, as American ham steak is generally saltier than Italian prosciutto cotto.
Make Ahead and StorageStore leftover baked rosettes in an airtight container for up to three days. Cover with foil and reheat in the oven at 375°F (190°C) until warmed through, removing the foil for the last 5 minutes, about 30 minutes total.
Serious Eats / Two BitesMy daughter eats oatmeal for breakfast—just boiled rolled oats with some sugar and milk. She loves it, but she’s a slow eater. Like any 13-year-old, she also sits down for breakfast just a few minutes before the school bus arrives. Inevitably, there are leftovers. “I promise to eat it in the evening,” she said recently before rushing out the door. When evening arrived, we pulled her leftover oatmeal from the fridge, but the texture had changed—it looked watery. Meanwhile, a second portion of untouched extra oatmeal that I'd also saved from the pot that morning was not only still thick, it had congealed quite a bit. This seemed rather odd.
I couldn’t be the only one who's noticed this, right? So I started looking up information about foods thinning after cooking and found several questions posted on various cooking sites over the years. In almost all cases they involved starchy or starch-thickened recipes:
- Why did my leftover chowder turn out watery?
- Why do all thick sauces and soups turn into thin liquid as I eat them?
- Why is my soup getting thin midway through serving?
People often responded with more questions: What kind of starch did you use to thicken the dish? How much did you add? How long did you cook it? The original poster's answers tended to suggest that these lines of inquiry were dead ends.
Serious Eats / Swetha SivakumaSo, why were these foods thinning? Nobody seemed to know for sure, but every once in a while someone in the discussion would float a suggestion that made everyone uncomfortable: Did you double dip into the food?
It's a question that comes with an inevitable “eww!” factor—double-dipping is like backwash, and most of us recoil at the thought of gross mouth germs getting mixed into whatever we have yet to consume. If we can put our gag-reflex on pause for just one second, however, there's a lot that's interesting about this suggestion, because what it's hinting at reveals more than just the answer to this food-thinning mystery, it's a great example of the important digestive powers of saliva.
Without saliva, eating and digesting would be a lot harder, and less effective. The mucus in saliva, for example, is essential to swallowing. When we chew, the mucus and water in saliva transform dry or crumbly food into a soft, sticky lump called a bolus, making it easier to swallow. This helps prevent choking and protects the esophagus from damage caused by rough food particles.
But the mucus isn’t the main point here. Saliva is mostly water—about 99%. The remaining 1% is a mix of mucus, proteins, and electrolytes. Among the proteins are enzymes that help break down food into smaller pieces, making it easier for the body to digest. The most abundant enzyme in saliva is salivary amylase, and this is the critical one to look at in this mystery of foods thinning and double-dipping.
Salivary Amylase: I Have One Job to DoSalivary amylase’s job is to break the α-1,4 glycosidic bonds in starch molecules to form smaller units like maltose and dextrins. That it works inside the mouth isn’t surprising; that is, after all, where saliva is found. What is surprising is that it continues to work outside the mouth as well, to the potential shock and horror of oatmeal eaters, soup sippers, and party guests crowded around bowls of dip everywhere.
Serious Eats / Swetha SivakumaBut this shouldn’t surprise you, because you’ve seen amylase enzymes at work outside their intended environment before. When you hydrate flour to make dough, the amylase enzyme in the flour starts breaking down starches into smaller units for the yeast to feed on, kickstarting the fermentation process and producing gasses that cause the bread to rise. Traditional alcoholic beverages like chicha beer and masato even use saliva to begin fermentation, snipping starches into smaller pieces that can then be fermented by yeasts. Enzymes take the mantra “You have one job to do” very seriously. Like robots programmed on an infinite loop, they keep doing their job until they’re finally rendered inactive, whether denatured by changes in pH or temperature, or brought to a halt by dehydration.
Testing Salivary Amylase on Starchy FoodsNow that we know amylase can continue working outside the body, the question is: What kinds of foods would it affect, and under what conditions? To test this, I needed a few starch-thickened dishes. Here are the ones I tested:
- Oatmeal
- Cream of Mushroom Soup
- Cream of Potato soup
- Cheese sauce
- Creamy Mac and Cheese
In all these cases, the dishes were thickened partly or entirely by starch molecules, which is a simple and inexpensive method for making foods less liquid. It works by heating a liquid that contains starch; once the temperature exceeds 140°F (60°C), the starch molecules start to unravel and absorb water in a process called gelatinization. The initially cloudy mixture transforms into a translucent gel, trapping water molecules between the starches.
I compared one set of starchy foods left untouched (as a control) with another set where I licked a spoon and swirled it around the foods. I repeated the licking and swirling process three times. After waiting 15 minutes, I examined the results.
Serious Eats / Swetha SivakumaWhy 15 minutes? Researchers estimate that salivary amylase remains active in the body for about 15 minutes before the food we chew and swallow gets fully mixed with gastric juices, where the acidic environment denatures the enzymes. This time also roughly matches the duration it takes to finish a meal. Therefore, whether inside or outside the body, we should see the effects within this timeframe. All the dishes were kept at room temperature, as enzymes work best around body temperature 90-98°F (32-37°C).
If the enzymes did their job, the smaller cleaved molecules would lack the thickening power of the longer starch molecules each dish started with. So, if my hypothesis was correct, the resulting foods should be thinner compared to the control version.
ResultsWithin 5 minutes, I began to see some thinning in the mushroom and potato soups. By 15 minutes, the results were quite significant for both the soup and the oatmeal. There was pronounced thinning and it was easy to visually tell apart the control versus the one with the amylase. Salivary amylase had a clear impact on the texture of these three foods in a brief window of time.
However, the cheese sauce and mac and cheese showed very little to no change. Why did the hypothesis fail for the thicker dishes? Most likely, because the thicker dishes depend partly on proteins in the cheese for thickening. Since saliva doesn’t contain enzymes that break down proteins, this might have limited the effect. Additionally, the increased viscosity of the cheese sauce could have slowed down the enzymes, reducing their ability to cleave as many starch molecules in the given timeframe.
Does This Mean One Should Never Double Dip?Enzymes work and they do have an impact. But if you are cooking for your family and checking for salt levels 18 times during cooking, you do not need 18 spoons. Enzymes are incredibly efficient at what they do, but they are easily disrupted. You do this on a daily basis. For instance, when you apply lime juice to apples and avocados, you inhibit the enzyme polyphenol oxidase, which prevents browning. Similarly, blanching vegetables before freezing them uses high heat to quickly deactivate the enzymes. Refrigerating foods slows down enzyme activity as well.
Serious Eats / Swetha SivakumaSo, when feeding your family, don’t worry about licking the tasting spoon. Enzymes need a Goldilocks set of requirements in pH and temperature to function optimally. The more you stray from their optimal zone, the less effective they perform. For instance, putting your spoon into boiling porridge renders them completely inactive. Similarly, tomato or other acidic soups and stews also denature the enzymes.
But if you find a suspiciously runny soup, porridge, or roux-thickened sauce or dip in the office refrigerator or at a holiday party, you might want to stay away…because the enzymes from someone's spit have been hard at work!
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineFor the last several weeks, my house has been filled with the aroma of delicious beef slowly braising in full-bodied red wine. It’s smelled so much like big, bold reds lately that my family is now insisting I take a little break from cooking with wine altogether. The reason for this is that I’ve been perfecting my bold, full flavored Gascogne-style beef and root vegetable stew—and I've loved every minute of it, no matter what my family says.
The Gascogne region is in Southwest France, tucked between Bordeaux and Spain. The region is popular among culinary aficionados for its earthy flavors, duck and goose foie gras, and other robust, lavish dishes. Because the region is so well known for its poultry, especially duck, it’s not hard to see why it has a reputation for rich food. As with most regional cuisine, you cook with what’s local. In the case of Gascogne, that means duck fat instead of olive oil, tannic and exceptionally bold red wines, dried prunes from abundant plum trees, and the uniquely nutty and caramel-flavored brandy called Armagnac. All of these flavors are incorporated into this beef stew.
Tips for Success When Cooking the StewThe technique for making this stew is fairly straightforward: Sear the chunks of beef and render bacon to develop a rich fond, add aromatics such as garlic, carrots, and parsnips for earthy flavor, deglaze with delicious Armagnac, add the wine and broth, then cook at a low temperature for several hours until flavorful and tender. A handful of chopped prunes stud the stew for a welcome sweetness that complements the acidic wine.
Heat management is key throughout the recipe. When searing the meat, make sure the pan is hot enough to actually create a crust on the beef but avoid too high of a temperature or you could scorch the pan. Similarly, cook the stew in a very low oven to ensure the muscle fibers and connective tissue in the beef chuck slowly transform into meltingly soft and moist gelatin. It's that gelatin that makes the meat still seem moist and tender even after the long cooking.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineThe Best Wine Options for Gascogne-Style Beef StewThe challenge with developing a recipe like this is selecting the right ingredients. Daube de Boeuf à la Gasconne reflects the rich, earthy, and bold flavors notable in the cuisine there. The major question is when to stick with traditional ingredients that define the recipe, and when changes are needed to make it approachable for home cooks like me who live outside of France.
The main ingredient in question here is the wine. The right wine in this recipe is quite important (a full bottle is used, after all!). Traditionally Madiran, a red wine from the Gascogne region, is used in the stew. It’s a tannic red wine made with tannat grapes, which produce a very strikingly bold flavor. I actually found it difficult to enjoy drinking this wine, but it hits the right complex, bold flavor when simmered with the beef in the stew.
But Madiran can sometimes be challenging to find in US wine stores, so I also tested with more common French red wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy. And while these wines can certainly produce a tasty stew, these stews didn’t feel quite rich or complex enough when compared to the stew made with Madiran. A solid wine option, and far easier to find, is Cahors, which is predominantly made with malbec grapes. If Madiran and Cahors are unavailable, you can substitute a good quality malbec wine in a pinch.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineRecommendations for a Balanced StewLooking through old cookbooks, especially Escoffier: Le Guide Culinaire, I found that a daube was traditionally made by marinating beef in red wine and aromatics. This is one area I do think it’s worth breaking from tradition. In my tests, cooking wine-marinated beef resulted in an overly boozy flavored stew.
I do, however, recommend following the common traditional method of letting the stew cool down and then chill overnight in the refrigerator before serving. In my tests, I found this produced a richer, more complex flavor compared to eating the stew when freshly prepared. I know it can be hard to plan in advance and to wait a full day before tucking into the stew, but in my opinion, if you are going to splurge on a good bottle of wine and duck fat for the dish, it would be a shame to not let it develop as much flavor as possible. I found that refrigerating the stew overnight deepens the flavors and allows them to marry.
When you're ready to serve the reserved stew, simply spoon off any residual layer of fat from the top before reheating. You will be rewarded with a lusciously rich dish that’s decidedly rustic yet complex, earthy, and delicious enough to mirror the traditional flavors of Gascogne.
Adjust oven rack to bottom position and preheat oven to 275℉ (135℃).
Trim off any large and hard fat pieces from chuck roast, then cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces. Pat dry with paper towels and sprinkle all over with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineHeat olive oil or duck fat in a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Cook half of beef until browned on all sides, 4 to 5 minutes. Adjust heat to avoid burning. Transfer the browned beef to a plate, then repeat with remaining beef.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineReduce heat to medium and add the bacon to the pot with the rendered beef fat. Cook, stirring frequently, until just starting to brown, about 4 minutes. Add the onions, carrots, and parsnips, and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables start to soften, about 3 minutes, adjusting heat as needed to avoid scorching the vegetables. Sprinkle vegetables with remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineAdd the garlic and flour and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant and no dry flour remains, about 1 minute. Remove pot from heat, add the brandy, stir, then return to heat and cook for 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineSlowly whisk in wine, stock or broth, thyme, and prunes. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium-high heat and simmer until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Add the beef and juices from the plate to the pot. Cover and transfer to the oven. Cook until the beef is fork tender, 2 1/2 to 3 hours.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineRemove stew from oven. If necessary, place over a burner and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, for up to 20 minutes to reduce and thicken stew to desired consistency. Use a ladle to skim excess liquid fat from top of stew and serve right away, garnished with parsley. Or—for the best tasting stew—omit skimming step, cool stew, and reserve for the next day. To serve the next day, let stew rest at room temperature until no longer hot, about 1 hour, then cover and refrigerate overnight. When ready to serve, spoon off hardened fat from the top and reheat stew on stovetop over medium heat until hot, about 15 minutes. Garnish with parsley before serving.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineSpecial EquipmentLarge heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, ladle
NotesArmagnac provides this dish with a distinct robust flavor, but you can substitute your favorite brandy if Armagnac is unavailable.
The red wine in this recipe is an important ingredient. If possible, use a good quality Madiran wine from the Gascogne region of France. A good substitute is Cahors, also from southwest France. If both are unavailable, reach for a malbec.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe stew can be cooled to room temperature and then refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 2 months. Remove the fat layer before reheating on the stovetop. Garnish with parsley just before serving.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoOn the coldest winter nights, nothing warms me up faster than a steaming hot bowl of soup. My woolly sweaters and space heater just won't cut it, and most evenings, I find myself heading to the kitchen to turn the contents of my fridge into a delicious, nourishing soup. Below, you'll find 18 soup recipes from around the world—including broths, noodle soups, and chowders—that will warm you up from head to toe. Don't feel like eating the whole pot? Freeze your leftovers for an easy, warming meal that can be quickly heated up on the next cold day.
French Onion Soup (Soupe à l'Oignon Gratinée)Serious Eats / Julia EstradaGreat onion soup requires just two things: onions slowly caramelized in butter until they're soft and golden brown—and a good broth. No amount of melted cheese and toasty bread will make up for a subpar base, but if the base is done right you'll be savoring a masterpiece. If you don't have homemade beef or chicken stock, good-quality store-bought chicken broth is the next best thing.
Beef Barley SoupSerious Eats / Julia EstradaFor an intensely savory soup with plump pearls of barley and tender vegetables, the process is practically identical to that for beef stew. Start with a collagen-rich cut of beef like chuck roast or short rib, then brown it in large pieces to prevent the meat from getting tough. Adding sautéed vegetables toward the end of cooking ensures they don't turn to mush.
Easy, Creamy One-Pot Salmon ChowderSerious Eats / Diana ChistrugaThe best kind of fish chowder has a creamy base loaded with natural seafood flavor. This easy one-pot recipe gives us that and more in about 40 minutes, making it a convenient weeknight meal. Cooking the bacon in a little water kickstarts the fat-rendering, and leaving out the salmon until the end ensures the fish stays moist and tender.
Taco SoupSerious Eats / Fred HardyTorn between Taco Tuesday and hunkering down with a big steaming bowl of soup on a frigid night? We've solved that conundrum with this cheesy, tortilla-topped taco soup that's loaded with hearty ground beef and smoky charred vegetables. Adding some crushed tortilla chips to the simmering soup helps thicken it, while also enhancing the savory corn flavor.
Beef Nilaga (Filipino Beef Soup)Serious Eats / Lorena MassoWith tender melt-in-your-mouth chunks of beef, buttery bits of bone marrow and tendon, and a colorful array of fresh vegetables, this Filipino beef soup is deeply comforting. Roast the corn and potatoes before you add them to the soup, which deepens their flavors and helps them retain their shape.
Guaydtiaao Bpet Dtoon (Thai Duck Noodle Soup)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSlurping noodles from a bowl of intensely flavorful broth is one way to instantly warm yourself up. This Thai soup features tender duck braised in an aromatic soy base, garlicky noodles, and fresh greens. The hot broth is ladled over duck, noodles, and greens at the end to create a complex and comforting soup.
Pozole RojoSerious Eats / Lorena MassoPozole dates back to the Aztecs and is centered around corn or hominy. Our version is made with pork and infused with a sweet, fruity, mildly spicy combination of California, guajillo, and ancho chiles, The bright red soup is finished with a rainbow of toppings like tostadas, lime wedges, thin slices of cabbage, onion, radish, and avocado.
Simmered Frozen Tofu Soup With Pork and CabbageVicky WasikIf you've never thought about freezing your tofu, you should. Freezing and thawing tofu expands its protein structure, creating air pockets for a chewier, spongier texture that soaks up flavor like nobody's business. Where it truly shines is in braises and soups like this comforting one consisting of pork, cabbage, chicken stock, garlic, and ginger.
Moroccan Egg Drop Harira (Vegetable and Legume Soup)Serious Eats / Jen CauseyMany iterations of harira exist throughout Morocco—some versions made with beef, some with chicken, and some completely vegan. Our version, made with vegetable broth, features chickpeas and lentils and is finished with a drizzle of beaten egg to form little wispy egg bits in the soup. A mixture of water and cornstarch is added towards the end of cooking thickens the soup, giving it a distinctively smooth and silky texture.
Pasta e Fagioli (Italian Bean and Pasta Soup)Serious Eats / Fred HardyThis version of pasta e fagioli has just two main ingredients—beans and pasta—and how delicious the soup will depend on the quality of those beans. Get nice beans that haven't been sitting on a shelf for years and cook them properly, and you'll unlock the beauty of what a bean can be. Use really old beans and cook them poorly, and the soup will suffer.
Dak Juk (Korean Chicken and Rice Porridge)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikRice porridge can range from a risotto-like consistency to a very thick soup. Since there are very few ingredients, it's crucial to use a good-quality broth, preferably one that's homemade with a whole chicken. Toasting the rice in oil before combining it with the broth helps develop its flavor and keeps the grains whole as they meld into the porridge.
Hot Ukrainian Borscht Recipe (With Beets, Beef, Pork, and More)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThis Ukrainian borscht is a hearty wintertime classic and an omnivore's delight. The pleasantly sweet and soup soup features an exciting array of meat and vegetables, and adding raw beets to the soup—instead of roasting them first—helps them retain their earthy flavor and vivid color.
Knoephla (North Dakota Cream-and-Dumpling Soup)Serious Eats / Qi AiWhile this North Dakotan classic is little more than good chicken broth, dumplings, and cream, nailing just the right consistency—somewhere between a rich chicken soup and a béchamel—involved a bit of tinkering. We add milk and baking powder for a softer dumpling, and to ensure all the dumplings cook evenly, we roll and cut the dough ahead of time so they can be added to the soup all at once.
Thick and Creamy Tomato SoupSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeA big bowl of thick and creamy tomato soup—the kind that clings to hunks of crusty bread or a grilled cheese sammy—is what we crave on a cold rainy day. For our take on the iconic Nordstrom tomato basil soup, we swapped out oil for butter and brown it, which gives the soup a delightful nuttiness.
Quick and Easy Creamy Mushroom SoupSerious Eats / Diana ChistrugaWe've all had past-their-prime mushrooms languishing in the fridge at one time or another. Their soft spots don't make them particularly appetizing on pizzas or salads, but they're still fine for creamy mushroom soup, where those flaws get blended away. A little flour thickens up the soup base to a creamy consistency, even without heavy cream, so you can totally make this a vegan soup by swapping out the butter and chicken stock with a plant-based alternative.
Roasted Sweet Potato SoupSerious Eats / Vicky WasikSlow-roasting sweet potatoes on low heat accentuates their sweetness, while finishing them with a blast of high heat gently caramelizes them. A topping of pistachio and orange gremolata adds a nice finish to the velvety soup.
Roasted Cauliflower SoupSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezRoasting the cauliflower before simmering and blending it brings out the vegetable's sweet, nutty flavors. Puréed until silky-smooth and topped with curry cream, this soup is as comforting as it is elegant.
Fully Loaded Vegan Baked Potato SoupSerious Eats / Qi AiThis 100% vegan soup is flavor-packed with nutty, cheesy tang, a touch of smoke, and plenty of chives or scallions. Roasted cauliflower, cashews, and potatoes form the backbone of this satisfying soup. We even top it with vegan mushroom bacon bits, broccoli florets, and vegan sour cream. How's that for fully loaded?
Serious EatsIt’s not news that Le Creuset and Staub make some of our favorite Dutch ovens, braisers, and enameled cast iron skillets. The brands produce heirloom-quality cookware that has lasted us through years of use, both in the test kitchen and in our editors’ homes. These pieces have proven themselves time and time again, and we particularly encourage you to pick them up when they go on sale. Now that Le Creuset and Staub are discounted at Amazon, you can save up to $130 on our favorite Dutch oven and enameled skillet, plus some other fantastic cookware.
The Best Le Creuset and Staub Deals at Amazon, at a Glance The Best Dutch Oven: Le Creuset 7.25-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Dutch Oven * The Very Best Enameled Cast Iron Skillet: Le Creuset 10.25-Inch Enameled Cast Iron Skillet * Another Great, Durable Dutch Oven: Staub Cast Iron 5.5-Quart Round Cocotte * One of Our Favorite Braisers: Staub 3.5-Quart Braiser With Glass Lid * An Extra Long Dutch Oven: Staub 6.25-Quart Oval Dutch Oven * A Super Slick Ceramic Nonstick Pan: Le Creuset 8-Inch Toughened Nonstick Pro Fry Pan * A Petite Stovetop Rice Cooker: Staub Cast Iron Rice Pot * A Mini Ceramic Cocotte:* Le Creuset Stoneware Mini Round Cocotte
Le Creuset 7.25-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Dutch OvenAmazonLe Creuset’s Dutch oven has been our favorite for many years thanks to its impeccably even heat retention and distribution. It produces fall-apart pork shoulder and crispy fried plantains. No matter what we cooked in it during our tests, the light enamel interior proved durable and easy to clean. Grab it while it’s $130 off.
Serious EatsLe Creuset 10.25-Inch Enameled Cast Iron SkilletAmazonThis enameled cast iron skillet is lightweight, heats quickly, and cooks evenly. Skillet cornbread comes out perfectly baked and steaks are seared to perfection, while eggs slide across the surface and release without any trouble. It’s a piece of cookware that will last ages, and now it’s on sale for under $190 off.
Serious EatsStaub Cast Iron 5.5-Quart Round CocotteAmazonOne of our other favorite Dutch ovens, this Staub cocotte sears incredibly well and cleans up quickly. The matte black enamel interior is impossible to stain and the cast iron maintains even heating for perfectly cooked foods.
Staub 3.5-Quart Braiser With Glass LidAmazonThis wide, shallow braiser is ideal for meatballs and coq au vin. The strong enamel stood up to our durability tests and meatballs cooked uniformly and seared nicely. The Staub also aced our braised pork cheek test, producing tender pork.
Serious EatsStaub 6.25-Quart Oval Dutch OvenAmazonFor those who like a bit of space to cook, this oval Dutch oven is able to fit a whole chicken for roasting. Made with the same cast iron as our other Staub picks, the oval oven comes with a tight-fitting lid that traps moisture to ensure a tender and moist finished product.
Le Creuset 8-Inch Toughened Nonstick Pro Fry PanAmazonThe impressively slick surface on this ceramic nonstick skillet smoothly releases eggs, crepes, and omelets. The thick bottom ensures uniform heating and the coating resists scratching (even when we scraped it with a metal fish spatula). Now $30 off, it’s worth grabbing.
Serious EatsStaub Cast Iron Rice PotAmazonIf you don’t eat enough rice to necessitate a rice cooker but are known to enjoy a small batch of rice from time to time, this Staub pot offers a happy medium. The 2-cup capacity is perfect for one or two people and the cast iron ensures uniform cooking throughout. The tight lid keeps moisture in to produce fluffy rice.
Le Creuset Stoneware Mini Round CocotteAmazonWho doesn’t love ramekins? Great for crème brûlée or eggs en cocotte, these Le Creuset mini bakers heat evenly and are easy to clean. Right now, they’re on sale for just $22 each.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a writer for Serious Eats. * An has been testing kitchen equipment for Serious Eats for over two years. * She especially likes to keep an eye out for vintage pieces from Le Creuset and Staub when she’s perusing flea markets.
Serious Eats / Qi AiBelieve it or not, there was actually a time on this earth before the cheesesteak (my version of B.C.). But, when Pat Olivieri griddled that first steak in 1930, he unlocked a new direction for meat-eating humankind.
Then, progress stopped. For the next 60ish years, the cheesesteak received little improvement—why mess with a perfect sandwich of tender, well-marbled steak, sautéed onions, and melty provolone cheese served in a soft but sturdy hoagie roll? It ruled Philly’s culinary world with an iron-rich fist. That is, until just before the turn of the new millennium, when something else started appearing up on menus throughout Philly: the cheesesteak egg roll.
Serious Eats / Qi AiThere’s debate over who first had the brilliant idea of rolling a cheesesteak’s gooey, grease-slicked (in the best of ways!) filling inside an egg roll wrapper and deep-frying it until golden and crunchy. These egg rolls first started popping up on restaurant menus in Philly in the mid-1990s at restaurants like the downtown Four Seasons, Davio’s on Rittenhouse square, and Stephen Starr’s first restaurant, The Continental. At this time they also became a staple at many corner-store Chinese-American take-out restaurants in Philly and South Jersey. As a born and bred Philadelphian, I sampled many versions in my youth, and I can attest they were all fantastic in their heyday.
Regardless of who invented the first one, the cheesesteak egg roll, like most revolutionary inventions, quickly spread in popularity. Today, versions can be found on menus at nationwide chain restaurants, including The Cheesecake Factory and TGI Friday’s. But, there’s no need to dine out to enjoy them. Gooey, rich Philly cheesesteak egg rolls are relatively easy to prepare at home with my recipe below. Fresh and crispy right out of the fryer, they’re better than any restaurant version.
The Cheesesteak FillingI’m not messing with perfection here. Yes, I am indeed calling for the cheesesteak filling from my own Philly cheesesteak recipe. In that recipe I write at length about the best cut of beef to use (always ribeye) and tips for slicing it razor thin at home. If slicing at home, make sure to partially freeze the beef for about an hour to firm it up, which will make slicing it thinly much easier. You want the steak to be fully firm when slicing, but you also want your knife to be able to slice through it without damaging the blade, so make sure it isn't frozen solid. And most importantly, use a sharp knife.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor those who aren't so sure their knives and skills are sharp enough or who just want to save time, another great option is buying thin pre-sliced ribeye, which can be found at some supermarkets like Wegmans and many Asian food markets such as H-Mart; you may also be able to find a butcher who will do it for you.
When it comes to the cheese in the filling, I’m team provolone all the way, but you can substitute with other Philly classic cheeses like basic American cheese, Cooper Sharp cheese, or even Cheez Whiz. Just be sure to substitute by equal weight. Folding all the cheese into the meat and onion mixture as it finishes cooking ensures the cheese coats every thin beef slice as it melts. Think of the cheese as an oozy, delicious fatty coat of arm that protects the cooked steak, preventing it from drying out when the egg rolls are fried.
Shaping the Egg RollsRolling these egg rolls is just like any flat-starch-around-moist-filling roll (think burritos, spring rolls, even blintzes): you have to keep things nice and tight. Loosely rolled egg rolls will fall apart as they fry, or at the very least, leave you with greasy pockets in the finished product. Not a good thing.
Serious Eats / Qi AiIn this recipe, I’ve taken some of the guesswork out of the wrapping process by providing an exact amount (a quarter cup) of filling for each egg roll. And while there’s no substitute for practice and experience, my directions for wrapping the egg rolls should help you get started—you’ll find yourself wrapping perfect egg rolls that fry up juicy and crisp in no time. Perhaps the most important part when shaping is to use your fingers to moisten the entire border of the wrapper with a thin film of water right before you start rolling each egg roll. This small amount of water will glue the wrapper together.
Serious Eats / Qi AiTips for Frying SuccessNow it's time for the frying fun. I’ve attempted to shallow-fry these cheesesteak egg rolls in a skillet multiple times, and the results were always subpar: uneven browning with speckled, greasy, soggy patches on the exterior. For the best results, deep-frying is in order. I strongly recommend a clip-on thermometer for deep-frying, which makes constant monitoring of the oil temperature easy. As soon as you add the egg rolls, the oil temperature will drop drastically, and you’ll need to adjust the heat to keep it as close to 350℉ (175°C) as possible, ideally within a 25℉ range. At this temperature range, the wrapper will turn golden and crunchy at the same rate the filling becomes hot and melty.
The Finishing TouchOftentimes, cheesesteak egg rolls are accompanied by a selection of condiments for dipping, which can include ketchup, a range of aioli-like dressed-up mayo dips, or even just plain spicy mustard. My favorite pairing is a melty cheese sauce, because let’s face it, when you’re eating what is essentially a deep-fried cheesesteak, a little more gooey, delicious cheese isn’t going to hurt.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor the Cheesesteak Filling: If using a whole steak, trim and cut steak crosswise with grain into roughly 3-inch wide sections, then set on large plate and freeze until firm but not frozen solid, about 1 hour. If using pre-sliced steak, skip to chopping instructions in Step 2.
Using a sharp knife such as a slicing knife or chef’s knife, shave steak as thinly as possible on a biased angle against the grain. Mound shaved meat on cutting board and chop coarsely with knife, about 5 times for store-bought sliced meat or 10 times for hand-sliced.
Serious Eats / Qi AiHeat an empty 10-inch cast iron or nonstick skillet over medium-high heat for 5 minutes. Add oil to skillet and heat until just smoking. Add meat and onion in an even layer and cook, without stirring, until both are well browned on one side, 4 to 6 minutes. Continue to cook, stirring frequently to move and pull apart the meat slices, until meat and onions are browned and meat is no longer pink, 2 to 4 minutes.
Serious Eats / Qi AiStir in provolone or American cheese, Parmesan cheese (if using), salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, until cheese is melted and mixture is well combined, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn off heat and let cool slightly, about 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor the Egg Rolls: Fill small bowl with water; set aside. Working with 1 egg roll wrapper at a time, orient wrappers on counter so 1 corner points toward edge of counter. Place 1/8 of the cheese steak filling (about a packed 1/4 cup filling per egg roll) on lower half of wrapper and mold it with your fingers into neat cylindrical shape. Using your fingertips, moisten entire border edges of wrapper with thin film of water.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFold bottom corner of wrapper up and over filling and press it down on other side of filling. Fold both side corners of wrapper in over filling and press gently to seal. Roll filling up over itself until wrapper is fully sealed. Leave egg roll seam-side down on counter and cover with damp paper towel while shaping remaining egg rolls.
Serious Eats / Qi AiLine large plate with triple layer of paper towels. In a large Dutch oven or large heavy-bottomed pot, add frying oil (oil should measure about 1 1/2 inches deep). Heat oil over medium-high heat to 350℉ (175℃). Using a spider skimmer or tongs, carefully lower 4 egg rolls one at a time, seam-side down, into hot oil and cook until deep golden brown, 4 to 8 minutes, flipping egg rolls about halfway through frying for even cooking. Adjust burner if needed to maintain oil temperature between 325 and 350℉ (160 to 175℃). Using a spider skimmer or tongs, carefully transfer fried egg rolls to prepared plate. Return oil to 350℉ (175℃) and repeat frying with remaining 4 egg rolls. Transfer to a prepared plate with other egg rolls. Serve with your preferred dipping sauce.
Serious Eats / Qi AiSpecial Equipment10-inch cast iron or nonstick skillet, instant-read or deep-fry thermometer for temping oil, large Dutch oven or large heavy bottomed pot, spider skimmer or tongs
NotesYou may also use store-bought pre-sliced well-marbled steak found at some supermarkets, including Wegmans, H-Mart, and other Asian markets. If using pre-sliced steak, still run a knife through the mound of meat about 5 times at the end of Step 2.
If you have a cast iron flat griddle pan or plancha, this is the time to use it for cooking the filling. If necessary, center over two burners for even heating.
Provolone cheese can range from mild to very sharp. Go with your personal preference, but whatever you choose, the cheese should be sliced thinly and melt easily. You may also substitute with an equal weight of Cheez Whiz, American cheese, or Cooper Sharp—a classic for cheesesteaks.
This recipe can easily be doubled. Cook the filling in a 12-inch skillet and fry the egg rolls in additional batches.
Make-Ahead and StorageAssembled egg rolls can be frozen for cooking at a later date: Freeze egg rolls on plate, then transfer to zipper-lock bag and freeze for up to 1 month. Do not thaw before cooking; increase cooking time by about 2 minutes.
Egg rolls are best served fresh and leftovers do not store well.
Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnA terrible truth about ovens is that none hold the exact temperatures they claim. Most ovens run 10 or 15 degrees cooler or warmer. I’ve worked in a dozen professional kitchens, plus a handful of test kitchens, and this has been true of all of their ovens. If you want to improve your cooking—whether it's home-baked bread or roasts, an oven thermometer is the best and cheapest way to do it.
I tested 13 oven thermometers, including analog and digital probe models. After using them at different temperatures and lengths of time, I found three winning analog and two digital oven thermometers worth buying.
The Winners, at a GlanceEveryone should buy one of these. For about $15 you get an easy-to-read oven thermometer that registers temperatures within seconds. (Other analog models take up to five minutes.) It has a brilliantly designed hook that is easy to place or move, even when hot. Plus, it features a generous base if you prefer to set your oven thermometer on a rack. It was simple to clean, and the high-contrast font of the temperature gauge made it legible even when covered in chicken schmaltz.
Thermoworks makes some of the best kitchen thermometers around (as we’ve found in previous reviews). This thermometer is highly accurate, with a large, legible screen, and features Bluetooth connectivity.
The Taylor had some of the fastest readouts of the analog thermometers I tested. It sports a generous hook for hanging and a wide base. It doesn’t seem quite as sturdy or long-lasting as the OXO thermometer, but it's only $8.
Smaller, round oven thermometers can be hard to read, which made this oblong thermometer from Taylor a standout. Its long, narrow size easily fits in small ovens and it registers temperatures quickly.
Are you looking for the one oven thermometer for everything? One that can tell you not only how hot your oven is, but also how long something's been roasting? One that can alert you when cooking's done? That’s the Thermoworks ChefAlarm.
The TestsThink your oven is accurate? These thermometers suggest otherwise.Serious Eats / Meghan Splawn Infrared Thermometer Test: To test accuracy, I placed each thermometer in the middle of a 250˚F oven. With a ThermoWorks Hi-Temp Industrial IR with Circle Laser thermometer (the winner of our infrared thermometers review), I recorded the interior oven temperature and noted the thermometer’s reading. I did this again with all thermometers at 350˚F and 450˚F. * Prolonged Temperature Test: I set the oven to 350˚F and placed each thermometer in the center of the oven. I used an infrared thermometer to record the oven temperature while noting the oven temperature's readout. I opened the oven and closed it every minute for five minutes to test the thermometer’s ability to react to temperature changes. * Cleaning Test: My five favorites from the accuracy tests were also used in the oven while I roasted chicken at high heat. There was chicken schmaltz flying and things got a little smoky! * General Use and Care:* During testing, I hung and adjusted the thermometers, both while cool and hot. I evaluated how easy they were to read and also cleaned the thermometers after testing.
What We LearnedReadability and Accuracy Were Extremely ImportantEasy to read AND accurate? The ChefAlarm is a great thermometer.Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnMost analog oven thermometers are made from stainless steel and tempered glass and have similar temperature ranges. However, the size and readability of their displays varied widely. For example, the Rubbermaid Stainless Steel Monitoring Thermometer had a smaller glass face and tiny font that made it much harder to read than my favorite OXO and Taylor models. (This was especially true with the oven door closed.)
Readability was less of an issue with the digital thermometers I tested, but the best ones, like the ThermoWorks ChefAlarm, had large displays with bright, high-contrast screens.
Most Analog Oven Thermometers Were Accurate Within 10 Degrees Most oven thermometers were pretty spot-on—we tested them against an infrared thermometer.Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnVery few oven thermometers gave me wildly inaccurate readings. Sure, some were slower to register or reset after the oven had been opened, but they were still pretty accurate. For example, the AcuRite Stainless Steel Oven Thermometer was slower to initially hit 250ºF and 350ºF than other models, but it was able to register temperature changes well and fast (within minutes) when used in a 350ºF oven. That said, a good digital probe thermometer was faster than even the best analog ones.
Mounted Oven Thermometers Were the Safest to UseA thermometer placed in the center of your oven will give you the best reading (and many manufacturers recommend this), but if you want to be able to use the center rack for cooking, you need a thermometer that won’t fall over every time you move a roasting pan or baking sheet. The only burn I sustained during testing happened when the Admetior model got stuck on one of my oven racks; I needed to move it and it wouldn’t budge. The Pecula and CDN DOT2 thermometers had hooks that only held onto the widthwise bars of the oven rack, meaning they could only be hung parallel to the oven’s front or back and still be visible. The Rubbermaid and Taylor 9532 models had hooks that could be attached to either the widthwise or lengthwise bars of the oven rack, meaning that the hook could be set hanging parallel to the oven’s sides with the thermometer itself still facing frontwards.
Should You Buy an Analog or Probe Oven Thermometer?Probe models are more versatile than analog oven thermometers.Serious Eats / Will DickeyProbe-style thermometers are great for understanding how your oven’s temperature cycles over time. Plus, most models can be used for things like taking the temperature of roasts and frying oil. An analog oven thermometer can just be left in the oven, providing temperature checks whenever you need it. So, which one should you buy? Since they're quite different, so I recommend having both.
The Criteria: What to Look for in an Oven Thermometer Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnWhen it comes to analog thermometers, the size of the thermometer’s face and its hanging mechanism and base were key. Look for an analog thermometer with at least a three-inch wide base and an open-prong hanger. (This looks like an inverted “v” or an “n” in the opening of the hook rather than a “c” shape.) This makes the thermometer more stable and easier to move. For probe thermometers, the best have stainless steel probes, digital displays, and near-instant readings. It's also nice when they have temperature alerts.
Our Favorite Oven Thermometers What we liked: The OXO Good Grips Oven Thermometer was easy to read, even when placed in the back of a rack or obscured by roasting pans and whole chicken. It has a wide, sturdy base and a unique hanging mechanism that allows it to grip onto the widthwise or lengthwise lines of an oven rack.
What we didn’t like: The hanging mechanism adds length to the thermometer and it wouldn't work as well in tight or small ovens.
Key Specs Style: Analog * Materials: Stainless steel * Dimensions: 2.5 x 4.5 inches * Temperature range: 100 to 600˚F * Hanging mechanism design*: Sawhorse-shaped design that can be hung widthwise or lengthwise
Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnWhat we liked: There's lots to love about this small digital probe thermometer. The display is simple to navigate right out of the box—you can easily set a target temperature to alert you when the oven's ready without ever reading the instructions. The probe and digital interface reacted quickly to temperature changes and it has a long cable and a magnetic back.
What we didn’t like: Unlike the Thermoworks ChefAlarm, this one didn’t come with a hanger for the probe, which would have made it more stable and safer to secure to an oven rack.
Key Specs Style: Digital probe * Materials: Plastic readout with stainless steel cable and probe * Dimensions: 3.125 x 3.125 x 0.75 inches * Temperature range: 58 to 572˚F * Hanging mechanism design*: Not included
Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnWhat we liked: This budget-friendly thermometer is fast and accurate and has a highly visible readout with some temperature guideline suggestions. It has a dual-sided hook for hanging and a wide base for rack placement.
What we didn’t like: This thermometer feels flimsy, which made it nerve-wracking to move when it was hot. It took on water during the cleaning process, which made us question its lifespan.
Key Specs Style: Analog * Materials: Stainless steel * Dimensions: 3.25 x 4 inches * Temperature range:100 to 600˚F * Hanging mechanism design*: Open inverted U-shaped hanger that can be hung widthwise or lengthwise
Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnWhat we liked: For a space-saving model, this thermometer had great visibility. Because this analog thermometer has a unique temperature readout (more like what you'd see on an old-fashioned thermometer), it was easy to get a quick ballpark reading without straining my eyes. It was fast and fairly accurate, too.
What we didn’t like: While it hung nicely, this thermometer has a unique base (long and thin with a slight curvature towards the body) that wasn’t sturdy when placed on a rack. The display is smaller than my other analog winners.
Key Specs Style: Analog * Materials: Stainless steel * Dimensions: 5 x 2 inches * Temperature range: 100 to 600˚F * Hanging mechanism design*: Sawhorse-shaped design that can be hung widthwise or lengthwise
Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnWhat we liked: With both high and low temperature alerts, a large display, and a timer, this thermometer does so much more than test for oven accuracy. You can use the probe for roasting chickens or smoking meat. You can also set two alarms, which is particularly helpful when grilling, as a low-temperature threshold alerts you to add more fuel or coals. It has a spillproof interface and magnetic back and it was the only thermometer that matched the readout of our control thermometer (ThermoWorks Hi-Temp Industrial IR with Circle Laser) either exactly or within one degree every time.
What we didn’t like: With so many bells and whistles (and alarms!) you’ll want to read the user manual or watch some instructional videos before getting started. It would be grossly underutilized if you only bought this for oven accuracy.
Key Specs Style: Digital probe * Materials: Plastic read out with stainless steel cable and probe * Dimensions: 5.94 x 2.75 x .75 inches * Temperature range: 58 to 575˚F * Hanging mechanism design:* Unique probe clip that can be used widthwise or lengthwise
Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnThe Competition* Rubbermaid Stainless Steel Monitoring Thermometer: This thermometer was accurate and easy to hang but I found the display cluttered and hard to read, especially when the oven door was closed. * Hepertise Instant Read Meat Thermometer: This thermometer gave accurate readings but it didn’t bounce back from temperature changes quickly. I struggled to set and turn off the alarms because the buttons were hard to engage. * KT THERMO Oven Thermometer: While I loved the readability of this thermometer, it struggled with accuracy (by 10 degrees or so) and the hook and base weren’t as sturdy as other models I tested. * CDN DOT2 ProAccurate Oven Thermometer: This was another model that struggled with accuracy. Plus it didn’t stay in place very well once hung and was hard to maneuver around a pan. * AcuRite Stainless Steel Oven Thermometer: This thermometer struggled to come to temperature in the short temperature tests, sometimes taking 10 minutes to read accurately. Partnered with the tight hanger that got stuck on the rack, I do not recommend this thermometer. * Admetior Kitchen Oven Thermometer: While it had a wonderfully clear readout, this thermometer also struggled with quick accuracy. * Pecula Oven Thermometer: The petite size of this thermometer made it hard to read and it can only be hung across a widthwise bar. * Hotloop Digital Oven Thermometer: This thermometer felt flimsy from the minute I took it out of the box. The probe was too short to use for anything other than oven monitoring. It was slow to come to temperature and gave inaccurate readings.
FAQsWhere is an oven thermometer most accurate? The most accurate reading in your oven is in the center of the middle rack, where the thermometer has some distance from the heating elements and sides of the oven. This may not be the most convenient place for your oven thermometer though—the middle rack is often the best place to cook food.
What is the best place to set your oven thermometer? If you can’t hang your oven thermometer from your center rack, consider placing or hanging it as far back as possible on the rack. Make sure the thermometer is not directly touching the back of the oven for more accurate readings.
How long can you leave an oven thermometer in place? Digital probe thermometers should only be used inside the oven for the length of cooking, but you can leave them in place for several hours for large roasts or long baking sessions. Analog oven thermometers will go out of calibration as grease or moisture accumulates in the oven. For the best accuracy, consider replacing your oven thermometer every year.
Why We’re the Experts* Meghan Splawn is a food writer and recipe developer who has worked in food media since 2006. She has been reviewing kitchen equipment for Serious Eats since 2024, including wine racks and cookie presses. * Her work includes 15 years in the test kitchen with Alton Brown as well as at sites including Simply Recipes and The Kitchen. * For this review, Meghan used an infrared thermometer against the oven thermometers to test their accuracy. She also judged them on usability and durability. * She only burned herself once while testing.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez"Garbage in, garbage out." The line has origins in the computer programming world, but you're just as likely to hear it in a professional kitchen. The problem is, it can be misleading—it definitely misled me for many years before I realized I was taking it too literally. Sometimes there are benefits to cooking with "garbage." Adding onion skins to stocks and broths is a great example.
There are of course plenty of situations where cooking with "garbage" is going to be a bad thing. I've lost count of the number of times I've seen someone complain about a recipe only to realize that the problem had less to do with the recipe than their shopping choices. The real issue is trying to define what garbage even is—"one man's trash is another's treasure" and all that. I spent decades peeling carrots, garlic, and onions before adding them to the stockpot, and if I'm remembering correctly it was largely because I once saw a celebrity TV chef instruct a less experienced cook that peeling everything first was the better way to do it. I'm pretty sure the chef actually said something along the lines of, "You want your stock to taste like garbage? Then don't put garbage in it," while angrily thrusting an unpeeled onion in the cook's face.
It wasn't until many years later that I almost fully stopped peeling carrots in some dishes, especially roasted carrots, since I've come to enjoy the wrinkled skin on those. And at some point I quit peeling garlic for stock because I just couldn't be bothered anymore, and I never noticed any difference anyway.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMore recently, though, I've made the switch to not peeling my onions at all for most stocks and broths, unless I want a very light, clear one. See, the dried yellow onion skins get their color and an astringent flavor akin to that of black tea from polyphenols like tannins and flavonoids—antioxidants with purported health benefits (I won't weigh in on that). Many of these polyphenols are water soluble, which means that if you put the onions with their skins in the stockpot or soup pot, you can extract the color into the broth, yielding a deeper, richer, darker brown color.
At left, chicken stock made without onion skin; at right, with onion skin.Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThat's a plus visually, since we do eat with our eyes and a broth that looks richer will often seem to taste richer as well (the brain works in funny ways!). But the visual effect isn't the only reason to do this. To suss out what flavor impact if any onion skins have on stocks and broths, I steeped some onions in plain simmering water for about 20 minutes, then tasted the result. The water had an astringent, slightly bitter edge that reminded me quite a bit of strongly steeped black tea, which makes sense since black tea is also loaded with similar tannins and other polyphenols. The effect was strong in my sample because I simmered a lot of onion skin in a small amount of water. In a stockpot with a lot more water and other ingredients, it would be much more subtle.
I wouldn't go as far as to say the simmering of onion skins in a stock or broth makes the result more delicious, but it does add a subtle depth and complexity that can complement the rich flavors of simmered meats and other vegetables. In my book that's worth doing at least some of the time, especially when you also factor in the time savings of not having to actually peel anything.
So, the next time you're whipping up some stock or broth, consider just chucking the onions in with their skins still on. It's even less work, and arguably comes with a small benefit.
Serious EatsI love diner food (and diners in general). There’s something extremely comforting about sliding into a booth and ordering a stack of fluffy pancakes with a side of fried eggs and, if they have them, vegetarian sausage patties. When I got my Lodge reversible griddle years ago, my first thought was, I’m going to have so many great at-home diner breakfasts. That proved to be true, as Pancake Sundays with friends and family have become a time-honored tradition in my household. I can quickly make a big batch of pancakes or fried eggs on the griddle, or flip it to use the reverse side as a grill for vegetarian skewers. It’s lasted me over five years so far and I expect many more to come from it. Right now, it’s on sale for $35, so why not start your own weekly pancake tradition?
The TakeawaysThe Lodge Reversible Griddle Heats and Cooks EvenlySerious EatsIf you already have a Lodge frying pan (which happens to be our favorite cast iron skillet), you won’t be surprised to learn that this reversible griddle heats and cooks exceptionally well. (It’s made of the same durable cast iron as the frying pan.) Through all my years of using it, this griddle has smoothly released pancakes and eggs to reveal evenly cooked bottoms. It excels at browning grilled cheeses and paninis, too. I’ve never had trouble with food sticking to it—I just make sure to preheat it adequately before using it.
Its Larger Size Is a PlusSerious EatsThis 9.5- by 16.7-inch griddle covers two burners and is spacious enough to cook multiple foods at once, so you don’t need to pull out multiple pans. Personally, I like to fry eggs on one half and sizzle sausage patties on the other, resulting in enough food to feed six or more people. I’ve easily fit eight English muffins at a time on it and can cook six pancakes at once instead of doing multiple rounds in a round skillet.
It Doubles as a GrillThe Lodge reversible griddle is also a multitasker in the kitchen. When flipped to the other side, it becomes a grill that’s able to leave desirable grill marks on burger patties or vegetable skewers. I’ve had many successful burger nights without having to fire up the gas grill.
It’s Easy to Clean and StoreSerious EatsWhether I’m washing the grill side or the griddle side, it never takes me very long. The nonstick patina that’s built up over the years quickly releases food residue, and any stuck-on bits come off with a bit of elbow grease under warm water.
Do I Recommend It?Lodge Cast Iron Reversible GriddleAmazonThis reversible griddle is arguably my most cherished piece of cookware in my kitchen. Aside from all the fond Sunday breakfast memories, it performs well and has stood the test of time. The spacious surface accommodates larger batches of food to cut down on cooking time and its slim profile barely takes up any space in my cabinets. It’s a multifunctional piece of gear that cooks well, cleans up nicely, and lasts a long time. Now that it’s only $35, I would grab one immediately if I didn’t already have my own.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a writer for Serious Eats. * An has been testing kitchen equipment for Serious Eats for two years. * She has a growing cast iron cookware collection that will soon require a bigger kitchen.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoIn my favorite children’s book, Cloudy With a Chance of Meatballs, the fabled town of Chewandswallow deals with tomato tornados and hailing meatballs. After reading the book, I remember wishing an unfathomable amount of sopa de albondigas, Mexican meatball soup, would pour down from the sky. In Mexican albondigas, meatballs speckled with rice, alliums, and herbs are served in a light, tomato-based broth along with a variety of fresh vegetables. It’s a dish I grew up eating, and one I still enjoy immensely—I especially love the contrast of textures between the snappy meatballs and tender vegetables.
My family reserves sopa de albondigas—often referred to in Mexico just as albondigas—for rainy days or anytime we need a nourishing and comforting boost, such as when we’re not feeling well. While other popular Mexican soups such as menudo and pozole have bold flavors from chiles and spices, sopa de albondigas has a subtle vegetal flavor that balances the hearty meatballs.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoWhile the meatball soup is a household staple throughout Mexico, its origin actually lies in the Middle East. The name albondigas comes from the Arabic word for hazelnut, al-bunduq, a reference to the meatball's shape. They were then introduced to Spain during Muslim rule, and were later introduced to Mexico in the 16th century by Spanish conquistadors during colonization. While in Spain albondigas are frequently served coated in a paprika-heavy tomato sauce, in Mexico albondigas always refers to the soup.
Mexican albondigas’ preparation is fairly simple: Onion, garlic, broth, and tomatoes are blended together to make the broth base. The meatballs are then simmered in the broth along with a medley of fresh vegetables, such as corn, potatoes, carrots, and zucchini. The result is a delicate soup with tender vegetables and savory meatballs. It’s simple to prepare, but the most important part to its preparation is making sure the meatballs are flavorful with a welcome bouncy texture—you're actually not going for a tender texture for albondigas.
Preparing the MeatballsIt’s important to note that Mexican albondigas have a noticeably different texture and flavor profile than the Italian American–style meatballs that are common in the US. Italian American–style meatballs often use breadcrumbs (or sometimes softened bread chunks) to bind the meatball mixture together. The breadcrumbs, when thoroughly mixed in with the meat, break up its texture, resulting in very tender meatballs. But Mexican albondigas do not use bread to bind the meatballs. Instead, they rely on uncooked rice to bind the meat mixture. The grains of rice soften and hydrate as the meatballs simmer and keep them from falling apart as they cook. The result is meatballs with a pleasantly bouncy (or what I like to refer to as “snappy”) texture.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoAlbondigas in Mexico typically use ground pork or beef or a combination of the two. The type of meat used varies by family. My family has always used equal parts beef and pork, since we like the blend of both flavors together.
Finishing the SoupFresh vegetables are always added to sopa de albondigas to turn the soup into a nourishing, complete meal. In Mexico no two albondigas recipes are the same—some families add celery, diced tomatoes, or green beans, but for this recipe I chose a hearty combination of potatoes, corn, carrots, and zucchini, which I add towards the end of the soup's simmering time to ensure that everything is properly cooked at the same time. Once the meatballs are added, the soup is cooked at a gentle simmer—never boiled—to prevent the meatballs from overcooking.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoOnce you’re familiar with making albondigas, you can adapt it as you see fit: Experiment with grinding your own meat, making your own stock from scratch, or swap in your preferred seasonal vegetables. The recipe isn’t quite as simple as standing under a meatball rain cloud with an empty bowl, but it’s pretty close—and just as delicious as those storms of meatballs of my childhood dreams.
In a blender on high speed, blend the tomatoes, onion, garlic, and salt until smooth. Transfer to a large stock pot or Dutch oven. Add chicken stock and bring to a boil over high heat.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoMeanwhile, in a large bowl, combine pork, beef, rice, egg, onion, garlic, flour, mint, oregano, cumin, salt and pepper, and use your hands to knead into a homogenous mixture, being careful to not over-mix.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoPinch off meatball mixture into 20 portions (about 2 ounces; 60g each) and roll in between hands into round balls and transfer to a large plate. If the meat mixture is sticky in your hands, moisten your hands with water and continue rolling meatballs.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoGently add meatballs to boiling broth mixture. Reduce heat as needed to maintain a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Add potatoes and continue to simmer for 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoAdd carrots, zucchini, and corn and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until meatballs are tender and reach an internal temperature of at least 165°F and vegetables are fork tender, about 10 minutes longer.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoDivide soup evenly among serving bowls and serve with cilantro and lime, if using.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSpecial EquipmentBlender, large stock pot or Dutch oven
NotesFor best results, buy freshly ground meat from a local butcher or grind your own. If grinding your own meat, use chuck roast and pork shoulder.
If Mexican oregano is unavailable you can substitute with fresh or dried Italian oregano.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe soup can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days. Allow soup to cool to room temperature before storing. To reheat, microwave in a microwave-safe container or simmer in a saucepan on the stovetop until warmed through.
Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnPie weights are essential for properly blind baking a pie shell. The weight should be evenly distributed across the pie shells to hold the dough in place while it sets in the oven, preventing bubbly bottoms and slumped sides. While there are many alternatives to traditional pie weights (dry beans and granulated sugar are popular choices—more on both below), pie weights are a baking tool you can buy once and keep for life. If you’ve got a reliable set of pie weights on hand, there’s no wondering if you’ve got enough dry beans in your cabinet or what to do with the toasted sugar.
While I have my own complicated relationship with pie weights as a professional baker, it recently became time for me to replace the set I lost in a move three years ago. (Read: My pie weights spilled out of their box and all over our moving container.) So, on a hunt for my new pie weights and your new pie weights, I tested nine popular sets, alongside granulated sugar and dry beans as controls. I chose two winners that are truly the best solution for blind baking pies without taking up too much pantry space.
The Winners, at a GlanceOf all the ceramic pie weights I tested, these had just the right amount of beads for filling a nine- to 11-inch pie shell. While you could buy multiples of other sets (or divide bigger sets), these also had a storage container that made them a perfect one-time purchase that can be maintained easily for plenty of future uses.
While I tested these pie weights with a smaller set (just eight ounces) they performed as well as the winning weights in terms of even crispness on the pie bottoms with no denting or dimpling. My only caveat? I wish I had two of these half-pound sets or had purchased Mrs. Anderson’s larger set, which has one and a half pounds of beads. Both sets come with thick plastic containers with tight-fitting lids for storage.
Serious Eats’ former baking editor Stella Parks championed this cheap and effective alternative to pie weights and it works incredibly well. Aim for using about two pounds of sugar for a nine-inch shell. You can reuse the sugar for blind baking about three times before it turns golden, and it can then be used in baking recipes. If keeping this much sugar on hand for blind baking is cumbersome, consider investing in ceramic bead pie weights.
The TestsWe tested all sorts of pie weights, from traditional to creative.Serious Eats / Meghan Splawn Blind Bake Pie Test: I used store-bought pie dough to line nine-inch stainless steel pie pans with dough. Before baking, I crimped the pie’s edges and docked their bottoms with a fork. I lined each pie pan with heavy-duty aluminum foil and filled it with a different pie weight. I baked each pie shell on a sheet pan for 20 minutes at 375˚F, then allowed it to cool for 10 minutes with the pie weights in place. After cooling, I removed the foil and pie weights. I recorded the ease of removal and how each pie crust had blind baked in the oven. * Control Tests: As with the other pie weights, both beans and sugar were used as control tests. For the beans test, I used two pounds of dried red kidney beans. For the sugar test, I used two and a half pounds of granulated sugar. * General Use and Care Tests:* Before use, I washed and dried any pie weights that required washing, primarily the ceramic beads. After testing, I washed, dried, and stored each pie weight, noting how easy or hard each of these tasks was.
What We LearnedWeight Mattered More Than MaterialHeavy metal pie weights left imprints on our pie shells, compressing the layers of butter and flour.Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnEven weight distribution is key to blind baking—too much weight can cause dimpling in the dough or lead to underbaked areas, while too little weight leads to bubbling and slumping. So having enough of whatever material (weights, beans, or sugar) in an empty pie shell ultimately makes for fewer bubbles, less side slumping, and more even browning. The best pie weight sets weigh between 1.2 and two pounds in total. For example, BC Precision Slingshot Ammo Balls made of carbon steel seem ideal for blind baking but they left the tested pie crust unbaked and heavily dimpled.
But Ceramic Pie Weights Outperformed MetalPie weights would enough weight and volume caused cracked and slumped crusts.Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnCeramic pie weights, like the FurRain Ceramic Pie Weights and Mrs. Anderson’s Baking Ceramic Pie Weights, and the granulated sugar control had the most evenly baked crusts of all the different pie weights, while some stainless steel and aluminum weights in similar weight classes came out of the oven with wet, unbaked bottoms. The Jefferson Street Ceramics Clay Pie Weights and Matfer Bourgeat Baking Beans pie weights were particularly bad offenders; both had promising materials (clay and aluminum, respectively) but the tested pie shells were dimpled and underbaked.
Another reason to love ceramic beads? They cool and dry quickly. Cooling quickly means that you can get them back into their storage container faster after washing. As for washing, all beads take about the same time to wash—use a colander to dunk them in hot soapy water, drain, and rinse—but the ceramic beads dry faster than steel or aluminum. This was true of ceramic sets that had more volume but smaller beads, like Jefferson Street Ceramics Clay Pie Weights, as well as the smaller set with bigger beads like Mrs. Anderson’s Baking Ceramic Pie Weights and FurRain Ceramic Pie Weights
Storage Was an Important Consideration You'll need somewhere to store pie weights when not in use—the best sets already come with storage solutions.Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnHaving lost my own pie weights a few years ago during the aforementioned moving disaster, I can speak to the need for a reliable pie weights storage solution. If you want to have your pie weights on hand for many years without losing them, look for a set with a container made of sturdy plastic with a tight-fitting lid. Avoid glass jars (they break!) or bags, which can come loose in your cabinet. Although pretty, the mesh bag of Jefferson Street Ceramics Clay Pie Weights was hard to refill and the string was not secure enough to keep the beads in when it was inevitably loosened. I liked the thick plastic containers with tight-fitting lids of FurRain Ceramic Pie Weights and Mrs. Anderson’s Baking Ceramic Pie Weights.
The Criteria: What to Look for In a Pie WeightsSerious Eats / Meghan SplawnLook for a set of ceramic pie weights in the 1.2 to 2.5-pound range. You can buy multiple sets of one brand if that works for your budget and storage. A sturdy storage container made from thick plastic with a secure lid is a must for making your pie weights useful for years to come.
Our Favorite Pie WeightsWhat we liked: Weighing in at just-enough 1.2 pounds of ceramic beads, one set of these pie weights evenly distributed themselves across the pie plate and filled it about halfway. This means if you’re baking with a nine-inch pie pan, you won’t have any bubbly bottoms or slumped sides. Plus, the ceramic construction ensures the bottom will bake evenly as they have enough weight and volume while also insulating the pie crust during baking. These were easy to wash in warm soapy water and they dried quickly.
What we didn’t like: Do follow the manufacturer's directions to wash and dry these before use, because they came out of the package dusty! While the storage container is great for, um, storage, it can be hard to move used pie weights from the foil back to the container because of its narrow opening.
Key Specs Material: Ceramic * Weight: 1.2 pounds * Storage container:* Heavy-duty plastic with a tight-fitting lid
Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnWhat we liked: Like my other winning set, these beads are sufficiently weighty. They produced a beautifully parbaked pie crust on the bottom. Like the FurRain beads, they store nicely. I tested with an eight-ounce package but a 1.5-pound container would likely have been tied neck-and-neck with our winner.
What we didn’t like: A single set is less than $10, making this an affordable option, but at eight ounces, there is not enough volume to hold the pie crust’s side up while baking. That means there was some shrinking and slumping along the sides. An easy solution would be buying multiple eight-ounce sets or buying Mrs. Anderson’s 1.5-pound set of the same beads.
- Material: Ceramic
- Weight: 8 ounces
- Storage container: Heavy-duty plastic with a tight-fitting lid
Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnWhat we liked: Sugar is cheap and readily available! Plus, after a few uses it will turn golden and caramelized, making it delicious for baking.
What we didn’t like: It will spill a bit as you transfer it in and out of the container and pie shell, plus you’ve got to figure out a storage solution that works for you.A wide-mouth glass storage jar is ideal for holding the sugar between uses and a canning funnel will help you move the sugar from pie to jar, once cooled.
Key Specs Material: Sugar * Weight: Use 2 pounds per pie shell * Storage container:* Use a zip-top bag or jar with a tight-fitting lid between uses
Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnThe Competition* Jefferson Street Ceramics Clay Pie Weights: I wanted to love these wonky, imperfect pie weights and would love to test them again, dividing the 2.4 pounds between two shells. I also hated the mesh storage bag because it was hard to refill and spilled when knocked over. * Williams Sonoma Pie Weights Jar: Similar to Mrs. Anderson’s, these could be great if you bought two or three sets. The glass storage jar stressed me out because it felt both tiny and highly breakable. * Chicago Metallic Pie Weight: This unique weight did a decent job of ensuring a baked bottom thanks to the stainless steel middle, but there was some cracking on the sides where silicone flaps struggled to keep the crust in place. * Matfer Bourgeat Baking Beans: I really wanted to like these cool aluminum beans and think they could work in a different portion with fewer beans in the pie shell. * Hannah’s Baking Pie Weights Chain: This stainless steel chain actually did a great job preventing bubbles on the bottom of the pan and baked evenly, but with no side support there was lots of slumping. * BC Precision Slingshot Ammo Balls: Another too-heavy contender that resulted in a soggy, dimple bottom! Also, the container broke in shipping and I spent some time pulling plastic shards out of the balls before baking. * PressPerfect Silicone Pie Weight: This didn’t fit the 9-inch pie shells and it felt like it was missing a side piece to keep the whole thing in place. (Spoiler: It was.)
FAQsDo you really need pie weights?For any pie recipe requiring a parbaked or fully-baked pie shell, yes, you do. Pie weights essentially hold the crust in place as it bakes, which prevents slumping, shrinking, and large bubbles from ruining the shape and structure of the finished pie
What can be used instead of pie weights?Dried beans, rice, and sugar can be used instead of pie weights. Our favorite alternative is granulated sugar, as it’s inexpensive and reusable. That said, sugar can be messy to work with and you need a large volume to fill each pie. Pie weights have enough density to hold down crusts without filling the pie pan to the top, plus they are infinitely reusable and won’t leave your work space sticky.
How heavy are pie weights?Pie weight sets can vary in size from eight ounces to seven pounds. A set in the 1.5 to 2.5-pound range is the best for most home cooks.
Can you cook beans after using them pie weights?You reuse dried beans as pie weights, but you cannot cook them as beans for eating after baking.
Why We’re the Experts* Meghan Splawn is a food writer and recipe developer who has worked in food media since 2006. * Her work includes 15 years in the test kitchen with Alton Brown as well as at sites including Simply Recipes, TheKitchn.com, and Serious Eats. * Meghan’s freezer is fully stocked for holiday pies after baking over 16 pies for this story.
Serious Eats / Qi AiWhile the phrase "Taco Tuesday" has been around since at least the early '80s, my love of tacos did not begin in childhood. Back then my exposure was limited to fast food tacos (you know the one) and the dry taco seasoning packets and boxed hard shells that mom occasionally picked up on sale at the grocery store. Frankly, I just didn't get what the big deal was with tacos—that is until I ventured into San Francisco's Mission district as a young adult and had soft tacos for the first time. The tortillas were warm and pliable enough to wrap around the fillings—juicy, tender morsels of smoky pork that had been griddled until the pieces were crispy around the edges, savory cotija cheese, and pickled onions—without shattering in my hands with each bite. Mind blown.
A well-made, perfectly executed taco is something to be celebrated—and not just one day a week but every day. We've rounded up 17 of our most popular taco recipes to help with that, so whether you're a carnivore, pescatarian, vegetarian, or vegan there's a taco (or four) with your name on it.
Easy Mexican Chorizo TacosDiana ChistrugaGet your Tuesday taco night off to a quick start with these super easy-to-make Mexico chorizo tacos. They take only about 30 minutes to put together, from cooking the filling to setting up the fixings—store-bought fresh chorizo streamlines the process. If you have a little time the day before, you can make the chorizo yourself and let the meat rest in the fridge overnight.
Crunchy Fried Fish TacosSerious Eats / Jen CauseyI'll never say no to perfectly fried fish, especially when it's coated in extra crunchy beer batter crust and enveloped in double-stacked warm corn tortillas with crisp shredded cabbage, fresh pickled red onion, and a drizzle of spicy mayo. We first dip white fish chunks into a beer batter, then coat them in seasoned cake flour before deep-frying. A little bit of the batter drips into the flour to form nubby bits that adhere to the fish, giving it a super crunchy texture when fried.
Tacos Gobernador (Sinaloan Shrimp Tacos)Serious Eats / Lorena MassoA specialty of Sinaloa, Mexico, tacos gobernador is a winning combination of crunchy exterior and melty cheesy interior, stuffed with tender shrimp stewed in a thick ranchera-style salsa of tomato, onion, and chile. Carefully toasting the assembled tacos in a skillet ensures a perfectly crisp, cracker-like shell.
Crispy Potato and Chorizo TacosSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergThe best chorizo and potato tacos are deeply browned and flavorful, each crisp cube of potato coated in a thin layer of bright-red fat packed with spicy, meaty flavor. To achieve an extra-crispy texture on the potato, we par-cook the potato in vinegar-spiked water. Whether the Mexican chorizo you choose is pork-based or fully vegan, cooking it past the point where you think it's finished leads to crispier, better browned, tastier results.
Baja Fish TacosSerious Eats / Qi AiWhat distinguishes these Baja fish tacos from other styles of fried fish tacos is their characteristic touch of sweetness. Here the sweetness comes from store-brought pancake mix (though you can also use a homemade mix), lightened with seltzer water. We also briefly soak the firm fish in a vinegar and salt solution before battering to help tenderize it and guarantee that it's deeply seasoned throughout.
Cochinita Pibil (Yucatán-Style Barbecued Pork)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltLooking for a showstopper for your next big taco feast? This Yucatán-style barbecued pork will earn you some serious bragging rights...and you won't even have to dig a pit in your backyard or cook it for 14 hours. With our method, you wrap the seasoned meat in banana leaves, set it on a rimmed baking sheet, and cook it low and slow on the cooler side of the grill with a few wood chips for smoky flavor. Just be sure you've got a hungry crowd because cochinita pibil is the kind of dish best made in large quantities.
Homemade Tacos al PastorSerious Eats / Melissa HomThis recipe proves you can make al pastor tacos that taste like the real deal taqueria variety at home—no trompo necessary. Layering bacon with well-seasoned, marinated pork and baking it in a pan produces a loaf that's easy to slice and crisp up. While the overall process takes a couple of days, the active time is remarkably low, and most of it can be done in advance, making it a great choice if you're planning a taco party.
Whole Grilled Fish TacosSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltGrilled fish taco often gets a bad rap for being a sad, dry replacement for the juicy fried variety. The problem stems from grilling pre-portioned fish, which runs a higher risk of drying out. Since fish is very often better when grilled whole, grilling whole fish for tacos makes total sense—plus, there's less chance of whole fish sticking to the grill than fillets. Not only is it easier and cheaper to leave the fish whole, but the skin and bones act as a heat buffer to give you a wider window to take the fish off the grill before it overcooks.
Easy One-Pot Chicken Tinga (Mexican Shredded Chicken Stew)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThis smoky, spicy shredded chicken Mexican stew is the ultimate one-pot taco filling. The built-in salsa means it barely needs any accouterments to shine. A little squeeze of lime juice and a scattering of chopped white onion and cilantro for freshness are all you need.
Tacos de Castacán Con Queso (Yucatán-Style Pork Belly and Cheese Tacos)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltMention the words pork belly and I'm all in! For our version of Yucatán-style pork belly, we cook it low and slow in a cast iron skillet nestled with aromatics like orange, garlic, cinnamon, and clove, then finish it in a blazing hot oven to crisp up the skin. Topping the chopped pork with shredded cheese while it's on the griddle gives the cheese a chance to brown and crisp, lending an extra dimension of nutty flavor and texture to the finished taco.
Braised Lamb Shoulder With Dried Chiles and DatesSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis braised lamb shoulder is the kind of set-it-and-forget-it dish that takes only a few minutes of simple prep—the Dutch oven does most of the work. Packed with flavor from smoky morita chiles, fruity guajillo chiles, and sharp tomatillos, all tempered by sticky-sweet dates, it's perfect on tortillas for an inspired taco night.
Sous Vide Carnitas for Tacos (Crispy Mexican-Style Pulled Pork)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltMoist, juicy, and ultra porky, with the rich, tender texture of a French confit and plenty of well-browned, crisp edges, carnitas is the undisputed king of the taco cart. While our oven method offers an easy alternative to the traditional method of simmering chunks of juicy pork in rendered lard inside a large copper vat, we think cooking it sous vide yields even better results. You don't have to heat the oven or worry about leaving it on all afternoon—plus, there's no real chance of overcooking. Win-win!
Tacos Árabes (Pita-Wrapped, Cumin-Marinated-Pork Tacos)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWho says a taco shell needs to be made of a tortilla? Tacos árabes, a Pueblan specialty with Middle Eastern influence, features juicy cumin-marinated pork in a warm pita-bread wrapper. Similar to our al pastor taco meat, for this recipe we layer smoky bacon with the pork in a loaf pan to simulate the flavor of charcoal-roasted meat on a spit.
Jamaican Beef Tacos With Tropical SlawSerious Eats / Morgan EisenbergSomething magical happens when you combine tacos and Jamaican beef patties. For our flavor-packed filling, we cook ground beef with classic Jamaican spices, onion, scallion, and Scotch bonnet pepper. To get that signature patty color, we brush the tortilla with a turmeric- and curry-infused oil. A bright tropical slaw made with mango and pineapple adds a fresh fruity flavor.
Fried-Avocado Tacos With Chipotle Cream, Cabbage, and Pickled Red OnionsSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThese fried avocado tacos just might be the most luscious vegetarian tacos you've ever eaten—golden battered avocado slices tucked into warm corn tortillas with cabbage, salsa verde, pickled red onions, and a creamy chipotle sauce. Beer in the batter makes for a light, very crispy exterior that contrasts beautifully with the creamy interior.
Tacos de Canasta (Basket Tacos for a Party or Potluck)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikTacos de canesta—basket of tacos—could very well be your answer to the question of what to bring to a potluck. Invented by intrepid Mexican street vendors, pre-assembled tacos are packed in lined baskets and wrapped to gently steam and keep them warm. Using taco filling on the drier side and homemade chile oil to add flavor to the tacos without introducing extra moisture guarantees they come out perfect.
Sweet Potato, Sage, and Fried Egg TacosSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltFor those who want to start their taco Tuesday first thing in the morning, these tacos with sweet potato, sage, and fried egg make for a satisfying vegetarian breakfast. Fried sage and sweet potatoes are a naturally delicious flavor combination that works well in tacos.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPad see ew is a classic stir-fried noodle dish made with chewy rice noodles, Chinese broccoli, egg, and pork, all coated in a savory soy-sauce blend. It’s a one-plate meal enjoyed as much in Thailand as it is in the US. It’s so popular that you’ll even find it at 7-Elevens in Thailand (and yes, their version is surprisingly good), but the best pad see ew comes from street vendors who’ve perfected it through dedication and repetition. It’s meant to be eaten not as part of a spread with many other dishes, but on its own as a satisfying one-plate meal, and that’s how I recommend enjoying this recipe.
Let’s break down the essentials of great pad see ew.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe NoodlesFresh wide rice noodles (sen yai) are the standard for pad see ew. These silky, chewy noodles soak up the sauce beautifully without losing their shape, much like Chinese chow fun noodles. If I’m being honest, there’s no perfect substitute for that signature texture of fresh rice noodles. They’re the key to making the best pad see ew possible, and one that comes closest to versions you've probably eaten in restaurants.
That said, fresh noodles aren’t always easy to find, and I still want you to cook amazing Thai food at home, no matter where you live. This recipe offers the substitution and directions for using wide dried rice noodles, since they’re far more accessible. I’ve turned to them myself, especially when my 2-year-old spots them in the pantry and makes clear to me that pad see ew is what he wants for dinner (yes, he eats like royalty). While wide dried rice noodles aren’t as wide or as long as their fresh counterparts, they still get the job done.
To mimic the texture of fresh rice noodles with dried, I rehydrate dried noodles by soaking them in boiling water. Pouring boiling water of them and letting the noodles sit briefly softens them more than soaking them in room temperature water, nudging them closer to a fresh rice noodle's texture (though they never get all the way there). Their starch granules gelatinize as they absorb the water, creating a soft, chewy texture. After rehydrating, I rinse the noodles to remove excess starch, coat them lightly in oil to prevent sticking (a trick I also use for the fresh noodles) and toss them with Thai black soy sauce. This early seasoning step enhances the flavor and helps the noodles caramelize when they later hit the wok.
While sen yai noodles are traditional, pad see ew can also be made with other noodle varieties, such as sen lek (smaller rice noodles), egg noodles, or even spaghetti. In Thailand, these variations are common, even though the dish has become synonymous with wide rice noodles elsewhere.
The SauceSince the noodles are the heart of the dish, a flavorful sauce is essential, otherwise it'll be bland. Pad see ew is Thai-Chinese in origin, with soy sauce ("see ew" in Thai) as its base. While some recipes add fish sauce, I prefer to use Thai thin soy sauce, Thai black soy sauce, and Thai oyster sauce. The black soy sauce provides sweetness and that signature deep color, while the oyster sauce adds rich umami. A dash of white pepper gives a subtle heat that rounds out the dish. Although pad see ew naturally leans toward the sweeter side, I prefer to keep the sweetness balanced with the more savory flavors rather than overpowering them.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Protein and VegetablesPad see ew is primarily a noodle dish, so protein and vegetables should play a supporting role rather than steal the spotlight. While it’s delicious even without protein, I add pork for its flavor and texture when given the option. That said, you can use whatever protein you have on hand: chicken, beef, and shrimp all work.
In line with the dish's Chinese roots, I like to velvet the meat before stir-frying it. Velveting is a Chinese cooking technique in which the meat is marinated in a coating of seasonings and cornstarch, then quickly blanched in a bath of hot oil and drained, at which point it's ready to be stir-fried. The result is silky, tender, flavorful meat. But while easy for restaurants, oil-blanching, also known as "passing through oil," can be cumbersome to do at home, since it requires using enough hot oil to fully cover the meat.
For this recipe, I prefer to blanch the pork in water. It's simple, quick, and much more home-kitchen friendly than oil-blanching. With water-velveting, you marinate the meat just as you would if it were being oil-blanched. But instead of briefly cooking it in hot oil, you blanch the meat in boiling water with a little bit of oil added to it. Of course deep-frying is still an option, if you don’t mind the extra effort and mess.
Chinese broccoli is the classic vegetable for pad see ew, easily found at Asian markets. I blanch it beforehand to keep it vibrant and tender, with just the right crunch. This way, when the Chinese broccoli goes into the wok, it is already partly cooked, ensuring you don't end up either with undercooked broccoli or overcooked everything else.
Finally, don’t forget the egg. It adds richness, soft texture, and that beautiful golden color that ties everything together.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPutting It All TogetherTo achieve exceptional pad see ew at home, cooking in small batches is essential. This recipe serves four, which means cooking four separate batches–yes, one batch per serving. On a standard home stovetop, overcrowding the pan with too much food at once traps moisture, preventing the sauce from caramelizing and the noodles from developing their signature smoky char. Instead of tender, flavorful noodles, you’ll end up with a clumpy, steamy mess. Unless you’re using a high-powered outdoor burner, cooking in smaller batches is non-negotiable.
Customize to Your TasteIn Thailand, pad see ew isn’t just served, it’s customized at the table by the diners themselves. Much like noodle soups, the expectation is that diners will fine-tune the flavors to their own tastes. Pad see ew, for example, isn’t inherently spicy, but if you want heat, a sprinkle of Thai roasted chile flakes does the trick. Need more salt? A splash of soy sauce or fish sauce should be spooned on top. Craving sweetness? A pinch of sugar. But the real magic, in my opinion, comes from a hit of acidity, specifically in the form of chiles in vinegar. The acidity from the vinegar cuts through the richness and makes the dish truly pop. Don’t skip this final step—nor the extra effort of making the chile vinegar condiment—then let your guests season their noodles as they wish.
For the Chile Vinegar: In a small saucepan, bring vinegar and salt to a boil over high heat. Remove from heat and add chiles. Let steep for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 day (vinegar will be best after 1 day). Store in an airtight container.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf Using Fresh Noodle Sheets: Meanwhile, cut fresh noodle sheets into 1 1/2–inch wide strips and place in a mixing bowl; toss noodles with Thai black soy sauce and oil until evenly coated and no longer sticky. Divide into four even portions and set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf Using Dried Noodles: In a large heatproof bowl, cover noodles with 1 quart boiling water. Allow noodles to hydrate until pliable, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain thoroughly and rinse three times with cold water to remove excess starch. Return drained noodles to bowl and toss with Thai black soy sauce and oil until evenly coated and no longer sticky. Divide into four even portions and set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez3. For the Marinated Pork: In a medium mixing bowl, combine pork, oyster sauce, thin soy sauce, sugar, white pepper, sesame oil, baking soda, salt, and Shaoxing wine. Mix thoroughly by hand until evenly coated. Marinate for 30 minutes at room temperature.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Stir-Fry Sauce: In a separate medium mixing bowl, whisk together oyster sauce, thin soy sauce, black soy sauce, sugar, and white pepper until well combined. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo Par-Cook Broccoli and Pork: In a large saucepan or 4-quart Dutch oven of boiling water,. blanch broccoli until crisp-tender, about 20 seconds; then, using a spider or strainer, immediately run under cold water to stop the cooking process (if you have a noodle basket, you can use it to blanch, strain, and chill all in once go). Squeeze out excess water, divide broccoli into four equal portions, and set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezReturn the water to a boil, then add the marinated pork. Cook, using chopsticks to separate the pieces, until just cooked through and no pink remains, about 1 minute. Drain, rinse under cold water, then drain thoroughly and divide into four equal portions; set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo Stir-Fry (in 4 Batches): Heat a wok or large carbon-steel or stainless-steel skillet over high heat until lightly smoking, about 3 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon oil and swirl to coat surface. Add 1/4 of garlic (12g), lower heat to low, and cook, stirring with a large spoon or wok spatula, until slightly browned and fragrant, about 20 seconds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIncrease heat to high and add one portion (142g) of noodles, and cook, stirring carefully to avoid breaking them, slightly charred, about 1 minute. Add 2 tablespoons (30g) of sauce and stir well.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd one portion of blanched broccoli and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add one portion of pork and stir-fry for another 30 seconds. Push everything to one side of the wok.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCrack 1 egg into the empty side of the wok, crack yolk then allow it to set before moving it. Avoid scrambling the egg. Once set, fold the noodles over the egg, flipping and scraping with the spoon or wok spatula to ensure nothing sticks. Stir until everything is well combined and egg is broken up into smaller pieces. Adjust seasoning with white and black pepper to taste.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer pad see ew to a serving plate and serve immediately with Thai chili flakes, chile vinegar, additional sugar, and fish sauce on the side. Wipe wok or skillet clean and repeat with remaining 3 servings of the stir-fry; alternatively, save all of the prepped ingredients by refrigerating them separately in airtight containers and cook the remaining batches whenever you desire (up to 2 days).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentWok or large carbon-steel or stainless-steel skillet; large saucepan or 4-quart Dutch oven; small saucepan
NotesThis recipe is best when prepared with fresh rice noodles, which come in sheets that can be cut by hand. Dry rice noodles are a good substitute if you can't find fresh, though the widest ones are not typically as wide as the fresh can be cut, and they have a chewier, more firm texture.
A Holland chile and Fresno chile will have a similar mild heat level that is balanced with a sweet finish, while a fresh Cayenne chile will be spicier. A jalapeño chile may also be substituted in this recipe, though it will deliver less sweetness.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe stir-fry sauce can be made and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
The chile-vinegar can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 weeks.
The meat and broccoli can be cooked up to two days in advance and stored in the fridge in an airtight container.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoI follow mostly cat and food accounts on social media, but even my fun-times feed is full of jokes about history's most endless-seeming January. So I'm embracing February with open arms (well, maybe half-open arms if I'm being honest) and going into the month with a good attitude about all sorts of activities, including cooking—and most definitely eating.
The rest of the Serious Eats staff is pretty pumped about February's eating opportunities, as well. And why not? It's a month that includes the Super Bowl—a food holiday that's second only to Thanksgiving—as well as Valentine's Day, which may be a Hallmark holiday but is also an invitation to eat even more chocolate than usual. Here are the Serious Eats recipes—some that are new on the site and some time-honored classics—we're excited to make right now.
Aquacotta MaremmanaSerious Eats / Amanda Suarez"I had this when Daniel made it in the office, and it's extremely comforting and hearty—just what I need to get me through the rest of the month!" —Genevieve Yam, culinary editor
Pad Kee Mao (Thai Drunken Noodles)Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez"Derek Lucci, our amazing contributor of Thai recipes, has given me a whole new perspective on drunken noodles. Firstly, his version is much more distinct from the pad see ew–esque renditions many US restaurants dole out. And secondly, you barely even need the noodles—and that's not a bad thing. What this dish is really all about are those screaming flavors that smack, drop-kick, and noogie your tongue all at once. It's intensely spicy with layered chile heat, loudly aromatic with literal mouthfuls of lime leaf, and suffused with the herbal potency of basil (preferably holy basil, but Thai basil works in a pinch, even if the flavor is different). This is the kind of thing I'd run out my door to grab the requisite ingredients, then flash up in a wok for a filling snack whenever the mood strikes or my sinuses need clearing or I just want every last one of my sensory neurons lit up to remind me that I'm still alive and kicking despite this cold, dark month." —Daniel Gritzer, editorial director
Chocolate Mayonnaise CakeSerious Eats / Maureen Celestine"Chocolate cake is my favorite dessert, so I have made a lot of them. This one checks all the boxes. It's extra chocolatey, it's super moist, and it's easy." —Haley Scarpino, newsletter editor
Scottish Savory OatcakesSerious Eats / Amanda Suarez"This is my favorite kind of recipe: Interesting, relatively simple, made by Genevieve. I will be making these to go on a charcuterie board for movie night this month." —Amanda Suarez, visuals director
Pink Beet PastaVicky Wasik; Serious Eats"I've always been attracted to vividly colored foods (maybe because I'm a millennial?) and lately I've been into natural food coloring. Valentine's Day seems like an obvious opportunity to experiment with pink, and this beet pasta is calling to me. Will I actually make this on Valentine's Day? Probably not. I will likely find some overpriced prix fixe to drag my partner to. But making this pasta a few days before will get me into the spirit of the holiday." —Kelli Solomon, senior social media editor
Khoresh-e-Ghormeh-Sabzi (Persian Beef and Bean Stew)Serious Eats / Nader Mehravari"I get excited whenever we have a new recipe from Nader Mehravari on the site and this beef and bean stew is no exception. Nader's description of how whole dried Persian limes add 'a unique musty (in a good way!), aged sourness to the dish' and his deep-dive on the history of the dish are both captivating. And it just sounds so hearty and satisfying. I'm excited to make it this month." —Megan O. Steintrager, associate editorial director
Italian Pressure-Cooker Chickpea and Pork Rib StewSerious Eats / Amanda Suarez"I’ve been eyeing this recipe ever since it went live. And what with the recent cold snap in New England, where I live, I think it’s finally time to break out the Instant Pot and make this cozy, comforting dish." —Grace Kelly, editor
Channa MasalaSerious Eats / Mateja Zvirotic Andrijanic"My pregnancy cravings have been nonexistent, except for the fact I can't get enough chickpeas. One of my favorite dishes is channa masala, so I'll be making that again this month. I like to eat it with a heaping spoonful of thick, tangy yogurt on top—and plenty of chopped cilantro, of course." —Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, associate editorial director
One-Bowl Lemon Drizzle CakeSerious Eats / Maureen Celestine"Winter in Vermont, where I live, is approximately eight hundred months long. This bright and sunny cake is singlehandedly getting me to June, when our snow will (probably?) stop." —Rochelle Bilow, editor
TostonesSerious Eats / Deli Studios"There's a tostonera (plantain press) at my dad's house that has never been used. Why? Is it just for decoration? I'm not sure. One of my relatives probably brought it from St. Croix, and we just put it on display near the bottles of duty-free rum that never get opened. To be fair, we are maduros people and generally only fry plantains when they're black and spotty. I'm determined to change that! Reina Gascón-López's tostones look so good that I'm definitely going to make them the next time I head to the burbs." —Kelli Solomon, senior social media editor
Midwestern Breaded Pork Tenderloin SandwichSerious Eats / Two BitesI love a crispy crunchy cutlet sandwich. So the headline for this recently published recipe caught my eye near fast enough to give me whiplash: “Meet the Crispy, Crunchy, Juicy Pork Sandwich That's as Big as Your Head.” Well, well, how do you do? It’s very nice to meet you. I’ll be buying pork loin, brining, flattening, and breading it, then frying it and slapping it between two squishy potato buns faster than you can say 'crunch'.” —Grace Kelly, editor
Flourless Chocolate CakeSerious Eats / Fred Hardy"I think the world would be a better place if we all sat down to a slice of chocolate cake each day." —Genevieve Yam, culinary editor
Mexican Spicy Fried Chicken WingsSerious Eats / Lorena Masso"Wings are a must in our house for the Super Bowl. I'm excited to try Octavio Peña's new fiery wing recipe on game day. GO BIRDS!!" —Leah Colins, senior culinary editor
Kansas City–Style Cheesy CornSerious Eats / Qi Ai"I have zero allegiance to Philly or Kansas City but I had to balance out Leah and Amanda's Birds enthusiasm, plus this Kansas City corn from Liz Cook looks amazing and Liz says you can make it with frozen corn in a pinch, so it's my pick for Super Bowl dining." —Megan O. Steintrager, associate editorial director
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaI grew up in Bengaluru, India, with very South Indian parents: Since they prioritized eating home-cooked meals, we rarely dined out. When we did eat out it was at a small shop called Paratha Plaza. Since rice is typically the go-to starch in the South Indian diet, breads like rotis and parathas aren’t eaten often—so the parathas from Paratha Plaza were a once-in-a-blue-moon delicacy. I have vivid memories of the buttery, crisp, Amul cheese-filled parathas.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin Sharma
These cheesy, flaky breads were one of the many types of parathas that this tiny shop sold. The parathas were served with achaar (Indian pickle), yogurt, and whole green chiles, and every time we went, I slowly savored each bite. When I moved to the US four years ago, I tried warm Buffalo chicken dip for the first time. The dip was as zingy as achaar, and its cheesiness instantly reminded me of the parathas I ate growing up. I immediately set out to combine the two, and ended up with these Buffalo chicken-filled parathas that deliver the best of both worlds.
For extra meltiness, my recipe calls for mozzarella cheese instead of the famed Amul cheese, a household staple in India that’s typically used to fill parathas. This is not a paratha you will find on a menu at any Indian restaurant—and definitely not at Paratha Plaza— but I’d like to think it is delicious enough to be sold at one.
Key Techniques for Making ParathasMaking parathas is very similar to making dinner rolls or bierocks, a popular bun in the Midwest: You divide the dough into equal portions, then roll each into a round ball before baking them. Unlike dinner rolls, however, it’s not quite as important to shape the dough into a perfect sphere, since you’ll be filling it and rolling it flat before cooking. And, unlike rolls or bierocks, the individual parathas are cooked on a griddle or in a cast iron skillet, not in the oven. Rolling the parathas can also be tricky, but my tips and tricks below will help you make stellar parathas.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaReach for atta. Atta, a type of finely milled whole-wheat flour from India that's typically ground in stone mills called chakki, can be found at any Indian grocery store or online. Atta is traditionally used to make stuffed parathas, and has a high protein content that allows just the right amount of gluten to form in the paratha dough. . If you can’t find atta, you can use two parts whole-wheat flour to one part all-purpose flour to create a blend with a similar texture.
Shred the chicken. For parathas that won’t tear during the rolling and cooking process, it’s crucial to shred the chicken as finely as possible. I recommend using a stand mixer or hand mixer fitted with a paddle, which makes light work of shredding the chicken. If you don’t have an electric mixer, though, you can use two forks or your hands, and finely chop any large pieces. The finer you can get the shreds of chicken, the easier and quicker the rolling out process will be.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin Sharma
Pleat and seal the dough well. After placing the filling in the center of the rolled-out circle of dough, gather the edges over the filling towards the center of the dough, pleating and sealing as you rotate it until all the dough is cinched over the filling. Gently press down so the filling evenly spreads out, with no gaps between the filling and dough on the sides. This method is very similar to the one used to prepare Chinese xiaolongbao or Midwestern bierocks.
Roll from the center towards the edges. Rolling from the center towards the edges allows for the filling to be evenly distributed around the paratha so you get a taste of the filling in every bite. Gently roll out the dough, rotating as needed, until your paratha is a nice round. Some filling may ooze out, but that’s okay: It will just create delicious crispy bits on your paratha.
The thinner the better. For the crispiest parathas, roll your dough as thinly as you can. Below, I recommend rolling each paratha to nine inches, which ensures they’ll cook up nice and crisp.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaHow to Serve ParathasI like to enjoy my parathas with Indian pickles (called “achaar” in Hindi or “uppinkai” in Kannada), which are made with fruits and vegetables like raw mango or carrots, as well as whole milk yogurt called “dahi.” They’re great accompaniments to these Buffalo chicken cheese parathas, but serving them with ranch dressing is also just as delicious.
In a medium bowl, add atta. Make a well in the center of the flour. Pour salt and vegetable oil into the well. Slowly pour lukewarm water into the well. Gradually incorporate flour and salt into the oil and water until a shaggy dough forms. (If dough is too dry, add water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it forms a shaggy dough.) Knead until a smooth dough forms, about 3 minutes; it should be soft and pillowy. Transfer the dough to a zip-top bag, seal, and let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaUsing your hands or two forks, finely shred chicken breasts into 1/4-inch pieces. Alternatively, you can use a stand or a hand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment to shred chicken breasts: Place chicken breasts in a stand mixer bowl or large bowl, then paddle until finely shredded, about 1 minute. (Smaller pieces of chicken prevent the paratha from tearing through the dough when rolling.)
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaIn a medium bowl, whisk cream cheese, Buffalo sauce, and garlic powder until smooth. Add mozzarella and shredded chicken breasts and, using a flexible spatula, fold until mixture is uniform.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaOn a lightly floured surface, roll and shape dough out into a 12 inch–long log about 2 inches wide. Using a bench scraper or sharp knife, portion dough into 6 pieces, each weighing about 83g or 3 ounces. Cup each piece of dough in your hand and, quickly gliding the dough in a circular motion, roll dough until it forms a tight ball. Cover dough ball with a damp towel and repeat with remaining dough.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaWorking with 1 dough ball at time, use a rolling pin to shape into a 6-inch round, rolling from the center outward and lightly increasing pressure toward the edges so edges are slightly thinner than the middle. (Dough should be soft and pliant; if it recoils while rolling, let it rest for 5 minutes before continuing.) Place 1/2 cup Buffalo chicken mixture (about 4 1/4 ounces; 120g) in a rounded mound in the center, leaving a 1-inch border around the edges.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaGently bring edges of dough over filling; pleat edges of dough repeatedly, pinching the edge closed after each pleat until the entire paratha is sealed in a cinched purse shape. Pinch and twist top to seal, gently pressing down the top to flatten slightly.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaOn a lightly floured surface, roll out stuffed dough into a 9-inch circle.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaRepeat with remaining dough and filling. Stack uncooked parathas on a large plate dusting well with atta or all-purpose flour in between each to prevent them from sticking to one another.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaHeat a griddle or 12-inch cast iron skillet over medium heat; a drop of water should evaporate immediately when placed in the pan. Place 1 paratha onto griddle or skillet until it begins to puff, about 1 minute. Flip the paratha and, using a pastry brush, spread 1 teaspoon ghee on top. Cook for 1 minute more, flip, then brush other side of paratha with 1 teaspoon ghee. Cook for 1 minute more per side before transferring to a plate. Repeat with remaining parathas. Serve warm with ranch dressing.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaSpecial EquipmentZip-top bag, rolling pin, griddle or cast iron skillet, pastry brush
NotesAtta, a type of finely milled whole-wheat flour from India that's typically ground in stone mills called chakki, can easily be found at Indian grocery stores and can also be purchased online. If you can’t find atta, you can use two parts whole-wheat flour to one part all-purpose flour to create a blend with a similar texture.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe paratha dough and filling can be made up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated. Stuffed parathas should not be made ahead of time and refrigerated, as the filling can make the dough too moist.
Stuffed and rolled out parathas can be laid out on a parchment-lined baking sheet and frozen; when completely frozen, transfer parathas to a zip-top bag. Frozen parathas can be frozen in an airtight zip-top bag for up to 3 months. Alternatively, stuffed parathas can also be stacked and frozen; keep parathas separate with a layer of parchment paper between each. Frozen parathas can be cooked directly on the pan without thawing.
Enameled cast iron offers a slick surface without seasoning. Serious EatsWhat would we do without the humble skillet? Be it a cast iron pan or stainless steel skillet, this unassuming piece of cookware can fry eggs, sear steaks, toast nuts, and much more. Over our many years of testing almost every frying pan under the sun, we’ve found the best of every kind, from the super durable Le Creuset enameled cast iron skillet to this cheap and slick OXO ceramic nonstick fry pan. We noticed that all our favorites are on sale for up to 50% off at Amazon, so we couldn’t help but gather them all here for you to peruse. If you need to replace a pan or two, now’s the time to grab one.
The Best Skillet Deals, at a Glance The Best Cast Iron Skillet: Lodge 10.25-Inch Cast Iron Pre-Seasoned Skillet * Another Great Cast Iron Skillet: Victoria 10-Inch Cast Iron Skillet * The Best Enameled Cast Iron Skillet: Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Skillet * Our Favorite Stainless Steel Skillet: Made In Cookware Stainless Steel Frying Pan * The Best Budget Stainless Steel Skillet: Tramontina Tri-Ply Clad Stainless Steel 12-Inch Frying Pan * A Great Ceramic Nonstick Fry Pan: Le Creuset Toughened Ceramic Nonstick Pro Fry Pan * A Budget Ceramic Nonstick Frying Pan: OXO Enhanced 10-Inch Ceramic Nonstick Skillet * A Super Slick Nonstick Skillet: Tramontina Professional Fusion 10-Inch Nonstick Frying Pan * A Versatile Carbon Steel Skillet:* Vollrath Carbon Steel 12.5-Inch Fry Pan
Lodge 10.25-Inch Cast Iron Pre-Seasoned SkilletAmazonAffordable and durable, this Lodge cast iron skillet is a time-tested piece of cookware that can release eggs smoothly, evenly bake cornbread, and sear steaks to a golden brown. Plus, it’s usually on sale for only $20.
While interesting, measuring heat conduction didn't really tell us much other than that the skillets all heated up quickly.Serious EatsVictoria 10-Inch Cast Iron SkilletAmazonOur budget cast iron skillet pick, which is also $20 right now, heats up evenly and quickly. We like the curved handle, which is comfortable to hold and produces a great sear on steaks.
Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron SkilletAmazonThe durable surface on this Le Creuset enameled skillet resists staining and chipping, even after years of use. It can reach high temperatures quickly and makes perfect over-easy eggs. The curved sides also promote easy stirring. You can grab it for a rare $30 off.
Serious EatsMade In Cookware 12-Inch Stainless Steel Frying PanAmazonBeating out All-Clad, this Made In stainless steel skillet took home top marks for its speedy and even heating. During our tests, it made beautiful crepes and seared pork chops perfectly. The handle is also comfortable to hold.
Tramontina Tri-Ply Clad Stainless Steel 12-Inch Frying PanAmazonFor a budget stainless steel skillet that can still hold its own, we recommend this one from Tramontina. Costing a fraction of the price of our top picks, this skillet heats evenly, responds quickly to temperature changes, and deglazes easily.
Le Creuset Toughened Ceramic Nonstick Pro Fry PanAmazonIf you can’t bear to part with nonstick cooking, this Le Creuset ceramic-coated pan is a great non-toxic option. Eggs, crepes, and omelets all lift easily from the surface, and the thick bottom provides even heating. Grab it while it's $30 off.
Serious EatsOXO Enhanced 10-Inch Ceramic Nonstick SkilletAmazonThis more affordable OXO ceramic nonstick skillet also happens to be our favorite nonstick skillet overall. It releases omelets smoothly and produces evenly cooked crepes. The ergonomic handle is comfortable to hold when swirling the pan around, and the slick surface cleans up quickly.
Serious EatsTramontina Professional Fusion 10-Inch Nonstick Frying PanAmazonThis lighter-weight nonstick skillet takes only seconds to clean. Its slick surface releases food without a hitch, and the included silicone sleeve keeps your hands safe from burns while using the pan. It cooks exceptionally well, even omelets, and is currently 50% off.
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Serious EatsWhy We’re the Experts* An Uong is a writer for Serious Eats. * An has been testing kitchen equipment for Serious Eats for over two years. * She loves her ever-growing cookware collection and recently got her first carbon steel pan.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaSouth Asia is home to hundreds of kinds of breads, from chapati and puri to bhakri and paratha. But perhaps the most well-known worldwide is naan. The region’s only leavened and baked bread, naan is a soft dough cooked at extremely high temperatures. When it's at its best, it should be puffy with a crackling, thin, crisp crust spotted with bits of smoky char that breaks open to reveal airy, stretchy, slightly chewy bread underneath.
It’s amazing plain, but even better when studded with garlic, painted with melted butter, and sprinkled with good salt, like in my recipe below. It’s savory and rich enough to eat on its own, but it also pairs well with almost any dish, including curries and soups. As a bonus, naan is relatively easy to make, requiring little more than your hands, a bowl, and a piping hot oven.
Origins of Naan and Its Classic PreparationNaan has been a staple in Indian cuisine for centuries and is believed to have originated in Persia before making its way east to Asia. The word naan comes from the Persian nân-e sangak, meaning “bread baked on hot pebbles.” In South Asia, it is traditionally made by the Punjabi people of Northwestern India and Pakistan where it’s commonly baked in a tandoor—an outdoor terracotta oven that’s usually shared by a whole community. The bread is kneaded and shaped, then slapped onto the inner wall of a tandoor that gets incredibly hot—about 900°F—way hotter than any home oven. Within minutes, the tandoor produces soft, plush naan with just the right amount of chew and a lightly burnished exterior.
Those of us from outside of Northwestern India eat naan in restaurants with Punjabi or Mughlai food, just as Americans enjoy it when they dine out in the States. (Remember, India is a huge country with many regional cuisines.) At home, most of us eat the breads native to our regions, none of which are leavened or baked. In fact, in India, most people typically do not own ovens because their cooking and bread-making historically does not require them, which is why naan is traditionally prepared in communal tandoors.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaToday you can find both plain and garlic naan in almost every corner of the world, and you don’t need an outdoor tandoor to make it. In fact, it’s easy to make at home and incomparable when enjoyed steaming hot fresh from the oven. I enjoy my homemade naan’s garlicky aroma and bite, rich buttery flavor, and supple chew more than any restaurant version I've tried.
How to Bake Naan at HomeIn South Asia, wheat flour is categorized as either maida or atta, both of which are milled from hard durum wheat. Maida is most often used to make naan. It’s similar to American all-purpose flour, having had the germ and bran removed, while atta is a whole-wheat flour that includes the entire grain. For this reason I prefer to use all-purpose flour when I make naan at home here in the US. You can certainly use whole-wheat flour, but be aware that your naan will not be as light and fluffy.
To keep the dough-making process as simple as possible, I prefer to knead it by hand. It’s a supple dough—enriched with yogurt, milk, and an egg to create its signature tender texture and rich flavor—and it's easy to knead on the counter. For intense garlic flavor, I add minced raw garlic directly into the dough when kneading, and also brush the baked bread with a garlic-infused butter right before serving.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaOnce the dough is properly kneaded, you can let it proof at room temperature for just a couple hours before cooking, or you can refrigerate the shaped dough to proof overnight before baking. Just choose the proofing method that fits into your schedule.
Perhaps the most challenging part to making garlic naan at home is mimicking the high heat of a tandoor. A home oven will never reach the extreme high heat of a tandoor. To try to solve this issue, I’ve seen many published recipes that call for cooking naan in a skillet on the stovetop or even cooking it on the grill to try to replicate the charring a tandoor produces. But I firmly believe baking the bread in the oven is the best cooking method at home. Tandoor itself translates to oven, and while your home oven won’t reach the 900℉ of a traditional tandoor, the enclosed cooking environment and steady heat flow of a home oven is still the best alternative.
My one trick to boost the browning on the exterior of the naan when cooking in a home oven is to bake it directly on a preheated baking stone. (If you don’t have a baking stone, a flipped metal rimmed baking sheet will work fine.) The baking stone will retain heat and promote immediate browning on the naan, similar to the effect of slapping the naan directly on a tandoor’s wall.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaThough this garlic naan is a great accompaniment to Indian food, it also pairs well with a variety of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes, such as hummus and muhammara. It’s easy enough to prepare for a weeknight meal, but special enough for a weekend gathering with friends.
Using a fine-mesh strainer set over a large bowl, sift flour and baking powder into bowl. Whisk in yeast, sugar, and salt to combine.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaIn a 2-cup liquid measuring cup or medium bowl, whisk warm milk, yogurt, and egg to combine. Pour milk mixture into flour and stir until well combined and no dry flour remains, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaAdd 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon oil and half of minced garlic to the shaggy dough and knead until evenly distributed, about 1 minute. Using one hand, form the mixture, rolling it against the side of the bowl, into a cohesive ball of dough, about 4 minutes.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaTransfer dough to a lightly floured work surface and use both hands to knead dough on counter until soft, smooth, silky, and elastic, about 12 minutes. Shape dough into a tight ball. Pour remaining 1 teaspoon oil into now empty bowl; roll dough in oil until coated all over. Cover bowl tightly with a piece of plastic wrap or a lid; set aside to proof at room temperature until dough doubles in size, 40 to 60 minutes. (Alternatively, shaped dough can be refrigerated for 12 to 24 hours to proof.)
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaWhile dough is proofing, adjust the oven rack to lower-middle position and set a baking stone or upside-down rimmed baking sheet on rack. Preheat oven with stone/baking sheet in it to 500℉ (260℃). Once dough is proofed, punch down.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaDivide dough into 6 equal portions (about 5 ounces; 145g each) and roll each portion into tight balls. Set aside on kitchen counter and cover loosely with a clean kitchen towel or greased plastic wrap and let rest for 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaWorking with 1 dough round at a time on a clean kitchen counter (keeping remaining balls covered while you work), use a lightly floured rolling pin and roll the ball into a flat oval that is about 10 inches long by 5 inches wide and no more than 1/2-inch thick. Gently press your fingers into top of dough to dock dough, then gently lift and set shaped naan aside and cover with a clean kitchen towel. Repeat rolling and shaping remaining naan; set aside.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaWorking quickly, slap 2 naan on the hot baking stone or rimmed baking sheet, 2 to 4 inches apart, in the oven. Bake until naan are cooked through, puffed up, and golden with browned spots, about 4 minutes. Do not flip naan during baking and be careful not to overbake or they will be chewy or tough. Using a long metal spatula or tongs, remove from oven and wrap 2 naan together in a clean, dry kitchen towel to keep warm.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaRepeat steps 7 and 8 with the remaining naan in batches of 2. While third batch of naan is baking, in a small saucepan, heat remaining garlic and butter over medium heat until butter is melted; turn off heat and set aside.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaOnce all naan are all baked, use a pastry brush to coat top of each warm naan with the prepared garlic butter and transfer to a serving platter or basket. Sprinkle naan with salt to taste and with cilantro. Serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaSpecial EquipmentRolling pin, baking stone or rimmed baking sheet, 2 clean dry kitchen towels, pastry brush
Make-Ahead and StorageThe prepared and kneaded dough (through step 3) can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 24 hours. When ready to make naan, bring the dough to room temperature for 10 minutes before shaping. Then continue from step 4.
Baked naan can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 day.
Serious EatsHere’s the great thing about Valentine’s Day gifts: You don’t have to be coupled up to partake. There’s no V-Day gatekeeper, no matter what the starry-eyed lovebirds tell you. It’s a day meant for celebrating all sorts of love: friendships, family, and—absolutely yes—self-love. Here at Serious Eats, we’re firm believers that holidays are a perfect excuse to spoil the ones you care about, and Valentine’s Day is no exception.
As our staff’s most prolific romance novelist (okay, our only romance novelist), I’ve been tasked with scouring every corner of the internet for the best Valentine’s Day gifts. I asked my colleagues, Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm and Grace Kelly, for help, and together we found the best chocolate, indulgent cookbooks, delicious drinks, and a little bit of everything else. Whether you’re shopping for your honey, your pals, or yourself, I’m certain this list contains your perfect gift.
This is the cookbook for chocolate fiends. Recipe developer and author Michele Song has created an ideal collection of chocolate goodies, including cookies, pies, and doughnuts. Hot tip: The Twice-Baked Chocolate Tahini Blackberry Cake is rich, indulgent, and gorgeously fudgy—a perfect Valentine’s dessert.
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowPanettone isn’t just for Christmastime. The Italian company Oliveri has been baking perfect panettone since 1882, and they’ve got sweet loaves for every occasion. The Valentine’s Day special is heart-shaped (aw!) and studded with candied strawberries. "I've gotten this panettone for the past few years and legitimately look forward to it months beforehand," Riddley says.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmRiddley and Grace taste-tested box after box of gourmet chocolate (the service! the sacrifice!) and found over a dozen exceptional boxes. Any box on their list is worthy of a Valentine’s splurge, but we ride for L.A. Burdick. This one contains half a pound of bonbons made with real Scottish whisky, to celebrate the iconic poet Robert Burns. There’s a “burn-ing love” joke in there somewhere, but you definitely don’t need an excuse to splurge on these chocolates.
Hot stuff! I’ve never met a cook who doesn’t go bananas over Fly By Jing’s Schuan-inspired condiments and pantry essentials. This gift set includes four of its bestsellers, including the Xtra Spicy (wink, wink) chili crisp.
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowCredit for finding this adorable sweatshirt goes to Riddley, who has a knack for spotting the best fish-themed goods. It comes in a handful of pretty colors and would be the perfect way to say, “Hey, babe, there’s no one else I’d rather be packed into a tiny tin with.”
If you know someone who loves tinned fish enough to get them a sardine sweatshirt, you should probably just throw it all in with this gift set. It comes with chocolate-shaped sardines!
Serious Eats / Rochelle Bilow“Is this too cheesy?” Grace asked as we brainstormed ideas for this gift guide. I say not even close, and if you’re the cheese lover I think you are, you will agree.
You and your Valentine deserve good Champagne, even if you don’t drink alcohol. When I reviewed nonalcoholic wines, this splurgy bottle was a standout. Frankly, I wasn’t convinced it was NA until I double-checked the label. It tastes like the real deal and is the only bottle I want on really special occasions.
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowRiddley owns these fun-sized wine glasses, and I get jealous every time I think about them. They come in a set of two (just like you and your boo!) and have a petite goblet-like bowl shape. They may not be the most traditional wine glasses we’ve tested at SE, but that’s exactly what we love about them.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmOne of the very best stand mixers you can buy? In the passion red color? Gift of the century for the serious baker in your life.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonNo need to gift wrap this tin of tea, which is a blush-pink color. It’s made with a green tea base for a moderate caffeine level and delicate flavor that complements notes of cherry and vanilla. Give it with one of our favorite mugs, like this vintage-inspired amber glass set.
Everything about this homemade gelatin set screams “I know how to have a good time.” It comes with three different mold shapes and passion fruit, guava, and piña coco flavors. They’re obviously delicious, but the real fun is in making and unmolding them—a perfect couples' kitchen activity.
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowI love Jeni’s ice cream for thinking of the unattached this Valentine’s Day. While so many other brands are celebrating couples, Jeni’s is over here launching a Palentine’s Day collection of ice cream pints. With flavors like frosé, gooey butter cake, and strawberry buttermilk, it’s a wonderful gift for the BFF who makes your life sweeter.
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowWhat’s better than a cheeky little cookbook? The coyly titled Hot Date is packed with mouthwatering recipes featuring nature’s sweetest candy. It’s written by Rawaan Alkhatib, who’s also contributed beautiful illustrations to complement Linda Xiao’s color-drenched photography. Not to be dramatic, but the Tater Tots Tossed in Hot Date Butter are life-changing. Life. Changing.
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowIf you’re going to gift a date-themed cookbook this year, you’re going to need to include some really great dates. Grace, Riddley, and I are all Rancho Meladuco devotees and can vouch for their creamy, luscious texture. They’re reliably juicy, which is more than I can say for every other brand of date I’ve tried.
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowIs butter a carb? Whatever, your Valentine needs this fun bookmark.
Our whole staff loves Hedley & Bennett aprons (including its essential apron and smock apron). They’re durable and comfy and have tons of pattern options. Grace pointed out that this dusty rhubarb hue is perfect for V-Day, and I couldn’t agree more.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe written word is not dead, and this delicate recipe box proves it. There’s no better gift for the new cook or recipe-collecting Valentine in your life. It comes with a set of recipe cards and dividers and is available in a few lovely motifs.
Even if you don’t buy this collection of unique chile powders for the double entendre opportunities (so spicy!), you’re going to want them on your spice rack. Choose from a set of six or nine, and enter the world of smoky, salty, and sweet heat from one of Serious Eats’ favorite spice merchants.
Planning on cooking a fancy steak dinner this Valentine’s Day? Not without a good set of steak knives, you aren’t. This surprisingly affordable set punches above its class and comes with a wooden knife holder. I’ve owned my set for almost two years and the blades are still sharp.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThis interchangeable heart-shaped knob works with many Le Creuset Dutch ovens and braisers, and is oven-safe to boot. Wrap it up with a heart-shaped spoon rest for a themed gift that’ll get used year-round.
Look on any of our bar carts and you’ll find a bottle or two of Ghia. This pleasantly bitter apéritif is made to be mixed, and the berry-infused version adds a brilliant rouge hue to zero-proof cocktails. If you haven’t yet given Ghia a chance, this is a great opportunity to see why it took three out of six winning spots on our best nonalcoholic drinks review.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerNothing says “I want to have breakfast with you for the rest of my life” quite like a croissant subscription box. Worried about them arriving fresh? Don’t be: They’re shipped frozen and come with instructions for thawing, proofing, and baking.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmThis pick from Riddley made our 2024 list of best cookbooks, and you only have to crack its spine to see why. It’s loaded with aspirational-yet-doable recipes for pizza ovens, as well as salads and desserts that pair perfectly with a homemade pie.
Feeling generous this year? Gift the above-mentioned pizza cookbook with one of our top-performing pizza ovens. The Ooni Koda 16 is one of the most user-friendly ovens we’ve tested, and it cooks consistently great pizza.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonLevain Bakery makes some of the most decadent, indulgent cookies I’ve ever tried. They’re soaringly tall and deliriously dense. Trust me when I say any cookie lover would be thrilled to receive a tin of these. The chocolate chip walnut is my favorite flavor, but you do you—there’s plenty more to choose from.
For the Valentine who is spicy, salty, and sweet. This duo of infused honey will change the way you make marinades, whip up salad dressings, and arrange cheese boards. FYI: The spicy honey is particularly good drizzled over pepperoni pizza.
Ahem. It’s time to wax poetic about this orange-infused olive oil. Grace discovered it during her olive oil review, and we’ve since all become fans. It’s a special, unique bottle that will get way more use than you think. It’s so good on vanilla ice cream.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyBonne Maman’s fruit preserves are so giftable. Maybe it’s the cute jars (it’s definitely the jars), but we’d all be thrilled to receive this variety pack that contains Bonne Maman’s greatest hits. In addition to the preserves, the set also contains a mini spoon and a set of notecards.
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowAre you blushing over there, or is that just the pretty pink tea collection from Vadham? It comes with three unique loose-leaf teas, and you won’t find a cozier blend anywhere than the Cinnamon Spice Masala Chai.
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowConsider this collaboration the updated version of roses and chocolate: The Breakfast In Bed package gets you a dozen bagels (plain and cinnamon raisin) with chocolate-covered strawberry cream cheese, which is about 1,000 times more romantic than scallion cream cheese! It comes with a pretty bouquet and is available for nationwide shipping.
Why We’re the Experts Rochelle Bilow is an editor at Serious Eats. She previously worked at Bon Appétit and Cooking Light*. * Rochelle has been writing about food professionally for almost two decades, and has been testing kitchen equipment for Serious Eats since 2022. * For this story, Rochelle and her colleagues, Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm and Grace Kelly, curated a list of Serious Eats-approved gift items from our previous reviews and other fun stuff they love.
Diana ChistrugaCasseroles weren't really a thing in my Chinese-American household. When I learned how to make a tuna noodle casserole in my ninth grade home economics class, I enthusiastically recreated it for my family. Unfortunately, my excitement was met with their disdain for the canned tuna and condensed cream of mushroom noodle masterpiece I had prepared. That, however, didn't stop me from developing my love of casseroles, and today, they're what I make when I need a dose of comfort. Below, you'll find test kitchen-approved casseroles, including creamy pastas, vegetable gratins, and a sweet, custardy bread pudding that will warm you up inside and out. You'll want to keep these casserole recipes on rotation...so get ready to fire up your oven.
Butternut Squash Mac and CheeseSerious Eats / Robby LozanoMac and cheese is always a good idea, but there's just something about an ultra-creamy baked mac and cheese casserole—complete with a buttery, crispy panko topping—that just hits different when it's cold outside. In this wintry riff, we went all out with fontina, extra-sharp cheddar, Gruyère, and our "secret sauce"...roasted puréed butternut squash.
King Ranch CasseroleSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeYou don't have to be a Texan to love a King Ranch casserole, which some might describe as a cross between chilaquiles and creamy chicken noodle casserole (minus the noodles). This simple, from-scratch version has tender-poached chicken, toasted cumin, bell pepper, tomatoes, chiles, crisp tortillas chips, sour cream, and lots of melty Monterey Jack cheese.
Traditional French CassouletSerious Eats / Fred HardyOne could argue that traditional French cassoulet is the granddaddy of casseroles. While there are several well-known and complicated regional variations of this dish, our easier at-home version calls for soaked cannellini beans, chicken legs, salt pork, pork shoulder, garlic sausage, and some store-bought duck fat. And, like the classic cassoulet from Languedoc, ours emerges from the oven with the requisite rich, dark brown crust.
No-Boil Baked ZitiSerious Eats / Robby LozanoThis baked ziti is dead-simple to make and incredibly satisfying. For easier baked ziti, don't cook the pasta—just soak it briefly, then combine it it with marinara sauce, heavy cream, and ricotta cheese. Adding diced mozzarella to the mix creates nice, gooey pockets of melted cheese
Classic, Savory Shepherd's Pie (With Beef and/or Lamb)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikShepherd's pie is British comfort food at its best. Our version features creamy mashed potatoes, a hearty meat sauce studded with carrots and peas, and a few non-traditional ingredients like red wine, tomato paste, and Parmesan cheese for depth of flavor. You can use either ground beef or lamb, or a combination of both.
The Best Squash LasagnaSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AlThis meatless lasagna takes full advantage of seasonal produce by layering kabocha squash, apple, and no-boil pasta with plenty of cheese for the ultimate cold-weather casserole.
Hasselback Potato GratinSerious Eats / Diana ChistrugaIt might take a little bit more effort to slice the potatoes, but it's so darn worth it: By arranging the potatoes accordion-style, you get an ultra-crispy top with a creamy, tender center. Plus: It makes for an absolutely stunning gratin.
Cauliflower GratinSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezCauliflower is great roasted or grilled, but when the temperature drops, I want mine smothered in rich, savory mornay sauce and topped with buttery breadcrumbs. Here, white miso paste in the mornay intensifies the flavor of the Gruyère and Parmigiano-Reggiano and lends a slightly sweet, nutty flavor, while za’atar in the breadcrumbs adds brightness to offset the richness of the gratin.
Sweet and Savory Corn CasseroleSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeCorn may be a summer ingredient, but this corn casserole is also perfect for the winter: It's simple, comforting, and satisfying, and in a baked casserole, the starchiness of out-of-season corn is actually quite nice. Lightly browned onions, red bell peppers, and sugar add back some of the sweetness, and cornmeal gives the casserole a hearty rather than a custardy texture. If you can't get your hands on fresh corn, just go with frozen.
Tater Tot Casserole (Hotdish)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikTater Tot hotdish is unequivocally the most epic version of hotdish. The Midwestern one-pot staple typically consists of ground beef mixed with canned or frozen vegetables, is covered in condensed soup, and topped with frozen Tater Tots. Here, we make a rich, creamy mushroom béchamel by steeping the milk with roasted mushrooms. Adding Worcestershire sauce to the browned ground beef gives it extra depth and umami, while spicy Dijon mustard to perks everything up.
Cheesy Sausage Breakfast CasseroleSerious Eats / Fred HardyThis cheesy vegetable and sausage breakfast casserole is a satisfying way to start the day and a wonderful way warm up your kitchen. Prep the casserole the night before, so all you have to do is pop it in the oven in the morning, or streamline things by making it ahead of time.
French Onion Strata (Savory Bread Pudding)Serious Eats / Emily and Matt CliftonWe've repackaged the flavors of French onion soup into this hearty, cheesy bread pudding by combining deeply caramelized onions with buttery Gruyère cheese. There's no need for stale bread here, unless you happen to have a loaf you want to repurpose. Just pop fresh slices of bread in a low oven to dry, which helps them better soak up the savory custard.
Make-Ahead Challah Breakfast CasseroleSerious Eats / Lorena MassoIf you're looking for something on the sweeter side to warm you up on a chilly morning, this easy challah breakfast casserole will fill your home with the scent of brown sugar, butter, and dried fruit. Custard-soaked challah studded with dried fruit and topped with a sweet crunchy streusel—now how inviting is that?
Hot Chocolate Bread PuddingSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis bread pudding is like cozying up to a mug of hot chocolate...only better. Cocoa powder and bittersweet chocolate give the casserole bold chocolate flavor, while bittersweet chocolate chunks nestled into the bread pudding melt into molten pockets. Top it off with some sweetened whipped cream, then dig into the pudding with a spoon.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeNew Englanders have a long tradition of transforming simple, thrifty ingredients into cozy, hearty fare. Anadama bread, the classic New England loaf, is a great example of this type of cooking. It uses pantry staples—in this case, flour, cornmeal, and molasses—in a creative way to make a hearty multi-purpose bread that’s great as a table bread or for sandwiches.
Growing up in Maine, I often enjoyed anadama bread dining out with my family—it was a bread basket-staple at family-style restaurants there. I’ve always loved the sweet flavor and slightly nubbly texture of anadama bread on its own, and it's even better when toasted and slathered with salted butter, so I was excited to dig into the bread’s history and develop my own recipe for a flavorful, satisfying version of this classic bread.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeOrigins of Anadama BreadIn researching the origins of the loaf, I came across many stories of how this bread supposedly got its name. In one version of the folklore, a fisherman living on the North Shore of Massachusetts in the mid-1800s was served a supper of cornmeal mush by his wife, Anna. Dissatisfied with being served this dinner one too many times, the fisherman declared “Anna, damn her!” and added flour, yeast, and molasses to the cornmeal mixture to turn it into bread instead. In other tellings of the story, a New England sea captain had a wife named Anna who was a great baker, and was well known for her cornmeal and molasses bread. When she died, her husband put up a gravestone in her honor reading, “Anna was a lovely bride, but Anna, Damn’er, up and died.” Thus, the bread became known as “Annadammer” or “Annadama.”
In reality, New England bakers have been making breads incorporating cornmeal and molasses, such as johnnycakes, since the Colonial era. But, according to Jonathan Deutsch's book We Eat What? A Cultural Encyclopedia of Unusual Foods in the United States, in 1850 the name “Anadama” for this style of bread was patented by a bakery in either Rockport or Gloucester, Massachusetts. A company named Anadama Mixes, Inc. started marketing the bread to customers in 1876. My guess is that these apocryphal stories stemmed from marketing materials attempting to teach customers how to pronounce the name of the product. But, we’ll probably never know for sure.
Making a Great Anadama LoafWhat we do know, however, is that this bread is (damn) delicious. Staying true to at least one of the stories, I start by making a cornmeal porridge on the stovetop. Cooking the cornmeal this way hydrates and slightly softens it, which helps keep the baked loaf from being dry and gritty. A quarter cup of molasses stirred into the cornmeal adds a light sweetness and caramel color to the bread without overpowering it. Gradually working the mixture of flour, yeast, and salt into the porridge forms a stiff dough which turns soft and pliable as it proves.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeShaping the dough into a simple cylinder before tucking it tightly into a loaf pan gives it a classic sandwich bread shape while letting it rise until an inch above the pan ensures proper proofing for a fluffy, tender crumb. If you underproof it less than this, it’s likely the loaf will turn out dense and squat.
I finish the bread by brushing the top of the loaf with a little bit of extra butter for a gorgeous, glossy, soft crust that I just know would make Anna (if she ever existed) proud.
Grease a large bowl with cooking spray. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, yeast, and salt. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeIn a small saucepan, bring water to boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and stream in cornmeal, whisking constantly, until incorporated. Cook, whisking often, until mixture thickens into porridge and cornmeal is softened, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeOff heat, add molasses and 1 tablespoon butter. Whisk until well combined and butter is melted. Transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer or large bowl and let cool, stirring occasionally, until below 110°F (43°C), about 20 minutes. Make sure that the cornmeal mixture has cooled to just warm/below 110°F (43°C) before adding the flour mixture; higher temperatures risk killing the yeast.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeFor Making Dough in a Stand Mixer: Fit stand mixer with dough hook attachment. Start mixer on medium-low speed and add flour mixture 1/2 cup at a time, mixing until each addition is incorporated. After final addition, continue mixing on medium-low until cohesive dough forms and no dry flour remains, about 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeIncrease mixer speed to medium. Knead until dough is smooth and elastic, about 8 minutes.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeSprinkle clean work surface lightly with additional flour. Use greased dough scraper or rubber spatula to transfer dough to floured work surface. Knead by hand for a few turns to form smooth, taut ball.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeFor Kneading Dough By Hand: With cornmeal mixture in a large bowl, use a rubber spatula to incorporate the first few additions of the flour mixture into dough, then switch to kneading the remaining flour mixture into the dough with your hands until all of dry flour is incorporated (the dough will seem dry and stiff, but still add all flour).
Transfer to a clean work surface and knead by hand until smooth and elastic, about 20 minutes, adding flour to the surface as needed as the dough becomes stickier. Knead by hand for a few more turns to form smooth, taut ball.
For Proofing and Baking: Place dough ball in greased bowl and cover with plastic wrap or clean kitchen towel. Let dough rise at room temperature until doubled in volume, 45 to 75 minutes.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeGrease an 8 1/2 by 4 1/2-inch loaf pan with cooking spray. Gently deflate dough and transfer to lightly floured work surface. Pat dough into 7-inch square and form into tight log, pinching seam and ends together to close. Nestle into greased loaf pan, seam-side down, and cover loosely with greased plastic wrap. Let rise at room temperature until center of loaf reaches 1 inch above rim of pan, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeNear end of rising time, adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). When dough is ready, remove plastic wrap. Bake until deep golden brown and center of loaf registers 190°F (88°C), 35 to 40 minutes.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeTransfer loaf pan to wire rack. Let cool for 15 minutes. Use a butter knife or small offset spatula to spread top with remaining 1/2 tablespoon butter until melted and evenly coated. Remove bread from pan and let cool for at least 45 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeSpecial EquipmentWhisk, instant-read thermometer, stand mixer with dough hook attachment, dough scraper or rubber spatula, 8 1/2 by 4 1/2-inch metal loaf pan, wire rack, butter knife or small offset spatula
NotesYou can use light or dark molasses in this recipe, but don’t use blackstrap molasses, which will make the bread too bitter.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe fully cooled loaf can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap or sealed in a bread bag and kept at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen (whole or sliced) wrapped tightly in plastic then aluminum foil for up to 2 months.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosAccording to one story, the sloppy Joe originated in Iowa, a descendant of the state’s loose meat sandwich. True or not, the Joe went mainstream decades ago, while its poultry counterpart is still more or less unique to another part of the Midwest.
The Ohio shredded chicken sandwich, also called a “sloppy bird,” is basically chicken pot pie filling on a bun. In the northwestern and central parts of the state, it’s a staple, served in schools, ice cream shops, and retirement homes. The standard recipe calls for a can of chicken breast meat, a can or two of cream-of-something soup, a slow cooker, and a pack of burger buns. Many cooks also use crackers, stuffing mix, breadcrumbs, or potato chips to thicken the slow-cooked filling, making it more scoopable.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosThe sandwich is easy to make and easy to enjoy, as long as you have a Midwesterner’s appreciation for carbs on carbs, which is why it’s been popular in Ohio since the 1940s. Compact and portable, it’s the walking taco of chicken dinners. It doesn’t have the zing of a tomato-sauced sloppy Joe, but it has its own warm, steamy, comforting appeal.
As you might imagine, some versions can be bland and mushy. Working on this recipe, I didn’t want to reimagine the sandwich, or add anything you can’t easily find at the supermarket, which would feel like a betrayal of its convenience-food origins. I wanted to come up with a version that tasted like more than just convenience… without a lot of extra effort.
Starting from scratch got me there. Instead of canned or otherwise pre-cooked chicken breasts, I used fresh chicken thighs, which is a more forgiving cut—less likely to dry out and naturally richer in flavor. I sear the thighs to develop fond and flavor, braise them, shred them, then finish them in a sort of homemade cream of celery soup. The ingredient list is still short and familiar, but I replaced the crumbly thickeners such as breadcrumbs used in traditional recipes with a roux and puréed vegetables, to keep things simple and relatively light.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosFor some mouthwatering tang, I added pickled banana peppers, a popular topping for other sandwiches as well as pizzas in Buckeye State sandwich shops and pizzerias. They aren’t standard on shredded chicken sandwiches, but I’m not the only Ohioan who uses them, and my research turned up more surprising secret ingredients, including mushrooms, eggs, and various cheeses. Customization is part of the tradition.
There’s no good reason why the shredded chicken sandwich is just an Ohio thing—no hyper-regional surplus of canned chicken, to my knowledge. It’s a dish that could fit in just about anywhere. (Who doesn’t like chicken and gravy?) Keep this easy recipe in your back pocket for potlucks, tailgates, and all those other occasions when you need a sloppy sandwich to scoop out of a skillet.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosPat chicken thighs dry with paper towels then lightly season all over with salt. In a large skillet or Dutch oven, melt 1 tablespoon butter over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add chicken and cook until browned on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side.
Return all chicken to skillet or Dutch oven and add chicken stock, bring to a simmer, and scrape the bottom of pan with a wooden spoon to loosen any browned bits. Lower heat to medium-low and simmer until chicken registers 175°F (80℃), 5 to 7 minutes. Use tongs to transfer chicken to a cutting board to cool.
Strain the cooking liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a heatproof measuring cup or medium bowl. Stir in milk; set aside.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosIn the now-empty pan, melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add onion and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Add garlic, black pepper, and salt and cook until aromatic, about 1 minute. Sprinkle flour over the vegetables and stir to coat. Cook until toasted and no dry flour remains, 1 to 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosGradually pour in the reserved stock and milk mixture, whisking constantly. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring often, until gravy thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosUsing an immersion blender (or carefully transferring to a standard blender), purée the sauce until smooth. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed. If using a blender, return sauce to pot.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosUsing 2 forks, shred chicken finely, then return to pot with sauce. Simmer until mixture resembles a thick gravy and a line drawn by a spoon holds its shape for a few seconds, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in reserved banana pepper brine, and let cool for 15 minutes. (It will thicken further as it cools.)
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosFor serving sandwiches: For each sandwich, pile about 1/2 cup shredded chicken mixture onto a bottom bun. Add pickled banana peppers. Top with the remaining bun and serve warm.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosSpecial EquipmentLarge skillet or Dutch oven, fine-mesh strainer, tongs, immersion or standard blender
NotesInstead of using milk, you can substitute with half-and-half or cream for a richer texture and flavor.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe cooked chicken and the sauce can be prepared ahead (through step 7, omitting the banana pepper brine), cooled, and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days. Reheat in a skillet over low heat until hot, then remove from heat and add the banana pepper brine. Let mixture cool for 15 minutes, and assemble and serve the sandwiches.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI have never been inclined to eat a spoonful of sour cream on its own—and yet, I never leave the grocery store without it. A tub of sour cream has myriad uses, including dolloping on baked potatoes and bowls of chili, folding into cake batter, and making creamy sauces and dips. The question is: Which sour cream is worth buying? To find out, the Serious Eats team tasted 12 different sour creams you’re likely to find at your local supermarket. We placed each into bowls, then sampled them without knowing which sour cream was which. After our editors tasted their way through 12 bowls of sour cream, we tabulated the results and crowned an overall winner we’d be happy to top our nachos with or incorporate into our favorite dip—and maybe even eat by the spoonful like we did in our taste tests. We also identified a couple of very good runners up.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe CriteriaSour cream should be creamy, tangy, and smooth. It should not be thin, watery, or gummy, nor should it be so stodgy that you suspect you’ve purchased cream cheese. It should be just thick enough to dollop, hold its shape well, and have a glossy sheen. It should taste like cultured cream—nice and tart—but not so much that it runs the risk of tasting rancid. It should also not be excessively sweet, because…sweet nachos? No thank you.
Overall WinnerStop & Shop Sour CreamEvery editor who participated in this taste-test gave Stop & Shop’s store-brand sour cream a glowing review. Our associate editorial director Megan thought it was “very thick and lusciously creamy,” with a pleasant, mild tanginess. Like Megan, our editorial director Daniel and associate visuals director Amanda enjoyed its full body and tart flavor.
Runners UpThe Best Nationally Available Sour Cream: Daisy Sour CreamIf you don't live near a Stop & Shop, you can't go wrong with this sour cream, which was an all around crowd pleaser in our taste test. “Good and creamy and mildly tangy,” Megan wrote. Like our winning pick, Daisy sour cream has just the right amount of tang, with a smooth texture that is thick and scoopable. The Daisy sour cream's ingredient list consists of just cultured cream, while some others we tested also contain enzymes that encourage coagulation or thickeners such as nonfat milk solids.
The Best Organic Sour Cream: Organic Valley Sour CreamDaniel thought this tasted “classic” and appreciated its glossiness. Though it was thick enough to dollop, it was slightly thinner than the other sour creams we tried. This was a plus for Megan, who thought it was “quite sour and tangy,” with a looser texture that she actually liked. This thinner texture is likely because Organic Valley’s sour cream is made with both nonfat milk and cream, whereas many other sour creams are made with just cultured cream.
The Contenders* 365 Organic Sour Cream * Alexandre Family Farms A2/A2 Organic Sour Cream * Bowl & Basket Natural Sour Cream * Breakstone’s All Natural Sour Cream * Daisy Sour Cream * Fage All Natural Sour Cream * Friendship Dairies Sour Cream * Good & Gather Sour Cream * Good Culture Sour Cream * Organic Valley Sour Cream * Stop & Shop Sour Cream * Wegman’s Sour Cream
In ConclusionOverall, our editors enjoyed most of the sour cream brands we sampled—in fact there were only a few we wouldn't gladly eat again. Most of the sour creams we tasted contain just two or three ingredients—cultured cream, enzymes, and friendly bacteria such as acidophilus and bifidus cultures—though some contain milk, nonfat milk, and/or milk solids. All of our winners had a good balance of tanginess and rich creaminess and steered clear of the dreaded sweetness.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOur Testing MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted with brands completely hidden and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample one first, while taster B will taste sample six first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation possible.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyI learned how to make tortillas when I was a prep cook at a restaurant. We nixtamalized dried corn before grinding it, then I’d spent about an hour mixing and shaping the masa into balls ready to press during service. They were truly special, ultra-fresh tortillas. While I don’t work in restaurants anymore, I still love to make fresh tortillas at home. It’s even more fun to serve them to friends and family, who are often awestruck at how good they are.
Making a corn tortilla from scratch is a tactile experience. Grab a handful of the moistened masa and squeeze it to see if it’s soaked up enough water. If it’s too dry, it’ll crack as it squishes through your fingers. If it’s just right, it’ll hold together as it extrudes. While getting the masa properly hydrated is one part of a corn tortilla's success, pressing it to the perfect size and thickness is the other. This is where the Masienda tortilla press comes in. This weighty metal press lets me churn out tortilla after tortilla, all pressed to the perfect even thickness.
Why the Masienda Tortilla Press Is My Go-To When I tested tortilla presses, I wondered how different they could be. And the truth is, most tortilla presses are quite similar. They’re often made of enameled cast iron or steel (and sometimes wood) and feature two sides you bring together and then press down on with a lever-like handle. It was the details that set the Masienda apart.
The best thing about it is its wide, 8.5-inch square surface. This gives me the wiggle room to make petite tortillas for empanadas or larger tortillas for truly amazing quesadillas. Some of the other tortilla presses I tested were small and round, which meant I had to get that ball of masa just the right size or I risked masa squeezing out the edges.
The hefty weight is another boon: The Masienda was the heaviest press I tested at 10.8 pounds. When pressing a corn tortilla, you need even weight distribution with enough oomph behind it to flatten the masa as quickly and evenly as possible. Lightweight presses couldn’t provide the same even flattening motion, resulting in uneven or too-thick tortillas. The handle is also nice on the Masienda, smoothly swinging over the press without wiggling around, letting me get even pressure when I push down on the two plates. Oh, and this may be superficial, but the Masienda comes in some gorgeous colors, including a pistachio green espuma and a rich blueberry azul. You can wow your friends with your tender corn tortillas and your eye-catching press.
Why We’re the Experts* Grace Kelly is an editor at Serious Eats, where she’s been testing gear for more than two years. * She used to make fresh tortillas when she was a prep cook. * She uses the Masienda tortilla press to impress her friends and family and to also just make really good fresh tortillas.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosTostones are one of my favorite snacks to make when introducing friends to Puerto Rican food. These twice-fried plantain slices are great solo, with sauces, or as an accompaniment to various meals. They even make a great chip for hearty dips, ceviches, and salsas, or as the base for building phenomenal nachos.
To make tostones, unripe green plantains are peeled and cut into slices, fried until golden and tender, smashed with a tostonera (plantain press) or other heavy implement such as a drinking glass, then fried again until crisp on the outside. A quick toss with kosher salt and some garlic powder and these golden morsels are irresistible.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosHow to Serve TostonesIn Puerto Rico, tostones are typically served with a dipping sauce called mayoketchup, aka salsa rosada, that—you guessed it—is a combination of mayonnaise and ketchup, plus a variety of spices. While they're delicious this way, I prefer my tostones simple and without sauces—to scoop up rice and beans or for dunking into saucy stews. Another—what I consider fancier—option for serving tostones is making tostones rellenos, which are stuffed twice-fried plantains made by using a different curved press called a tostonera rellena (instead of a flat tostone press) to form a small cup that holds meat sauces, dips, or salsas.
Tostones vs. MadurosThese savory snacks are one of the many fritura—deep-fried fritters or treats—that are a common street foods in Puerto Rico. They differ greatly from their relative maduros (aka amarillos) which are another style of fried plantain slices. Both tostones and maduros can be found across the Caribbean and Latin America, including in Cuba, the Dominican Republic, Haiti, Colombia, Ecuador, and more, with the names varying based on where you find them: patacones, plátano frito, bannann peze.
While both tostones and maduros are deep fried plantain slices, the key difference is in the ripeness of the plantains used. Tostones use very green unripe plantains, which are starchy and similar in texture to a potato that you would use for french fries. Maduros, on the other hand, are made with very ripe plantains. When the plantain starts to ripen and turn yellow and then black, it softens in texture and sweetens in flavor as its starches turn into sugar. The result is a sweeter, very tender fried plantain. While I enjoy both styles of fried plantains, I favor savory, garlicky, crisp tostones over sweet maduros.
How to Fry TostonesFrying tostones is fairly straightforward. As noted above, it’s always important to start with green, firm, unripe plantains. While many recipes call for deep-frying tostones, I prefer shallow-frying them in a skillet. It requires less oil, which means less mess and an easier clean up.
The key to achieving their golden and crisp exterior and tender interior is a double-fry technique: The sliced plantains are first fried at a lower temperature until light golden, then they’re smashed thin while still warm with a tostonera (plantain press) before being fried a second time at a slightly higher temperature until crisp. If you don’t have a tostonera, no worries—you can also use a tortilla press or even a heavy-bottomed glass or mug to flatten the plantain slices. Don’t be afraid to use a lot of force when flattening—they should be very thin, about a quarter inch in thickness.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosWhen smashing the tostones thin before their second fry, keep a close eye on the temperature of the cooking oil. The oil can easily overheat, so you might need to reduce the temperature on your stove between frying sessions.
Once you've twice-fried your plantains, be sure to set them on a wire rack set inside a baking sheet to allow any excess oil to drip off. Then serve them while they're still piping hot. This recipe makes a big batch of tostones so there will be plenty to share with others. They’re so good they tend to disappear before making it to the plate.
For the Mayoketchup Dipping Sauce: In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise and ketchup. Season with a pinch of kosher salt, black pepper, ground cumin, smoked paprika, and garlic powder. Taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking; set aside or refrigerate until ready to serve.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosFor the Tostones: In a deep 10-inch cast iron or stainless steel skillet, add oil and heat oil over medium-high heat to 325ºF (160℃).
While the oil is preheating, peel the plantains by cutting off the ends and carefully cutting a slit down the sides of each plantain, cutting through the skin but not into the flesh. Remove the skin and then cut the fruit crosswise into 1-inch long chunks.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosWhen oil reaches 325ºF (160℃), add half of the plantain chunks and fry until golden and fork tender, adjusting heat as needed to maintain oil temperature around 300 to 325ºF (150 to 160℃), 7 to 8 minutes, flipping over as needed to ensure even color. Use a slotted spoon to carefully remove the plantain chunks from the oil and transfer them to a cutting board.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosUsing a tostonera (plantain press) or tortilla press, smash each plantain chunk until flattened and about 1/4 -inch thick (see notes). Repeat frying and smashing the remaining plantain chunks, setting the flattened ones aside to be fried again.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosHeat oil to 350ºF (175℃), add half of the flattened plantains back into the oil and fry for a second time until golden all over and starting to float, 2 to 3 minutes. Use a slotted spoon or spider skimmer to remove the tostones and transfer to a large mixing bowl. Return oil to 375ºF (175℃) and repeat frying process with remaining flattened plantains.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosOnce all are fried, immediately season with a large pinch of kosher salt and garlic powder, and toss to combine. Transfer tostones to a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet to drain any excess oil.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosServe tostones with prepared sauce.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosSpecial EquipmentTostonera (plantain press) or tortilla press or heavy-bottomed glass or mug, slotted spoon or spider skimmer, wire rack and rimmed baking sheet, instant-read or deep-fry thermometer
NotesThis recipe is very easy to scale up or down.
If a plantain press or tortilla press are unavailable, you can use the flat bottom of a heavy-bottomed glass or mug to flatten the tostones.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe sauce can be refrigerated for up to 7 days. Tostones are best enjoyed fresh and hot.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAlong with pad Thai and pad see ew, pad kee mao (drunken noodles) is one of the most popular noodle dishes at Thai restaurants in the US. Many American diners understand it to be a stir-fry of fresh rice noodles enhanced with a spicy base of Thai chiles and garlic, mixed with an assortment of vegetables, and finished with Thai sweet basil. But as a professional cook who has devoted my life and career to studying and cooking Thai food, I'm struck by the observation that pad kee mao in the States is often just an amped-up version of pad see ew. Too often, US restaurants prepare drunken noodles as if they were just tossing in a few extra chiles and aromatics to what is otherwise a wok-ful of pad see ew. That shouldn't be.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI’ve eaten pad kee mao many times in Thailand, and the dish bore little resemblance to what’s served here in the US—with way more aromatics and tons of heat, neither of which pad see ew has. As the dish’s common epithet suggests, the dish should be fiery enough to sober up a drunk person, which, by Thai standards, is quite fiery.
Its bold aromatic profile comes from a combination of fresh Thai chiles, garlic, young green peppercorns, grachai (a rhizome also known as fingerroot or Chinese keys), and the herbal citrus notes of fresh makrut lime leaves. These aromatics are stir-fried with pork, vegetables like baby corn, long beans, and orange chiles, and finished with boatloads of holy basil–a peppery, almost clove-like herb entirely unlike Thai sweet basil's anise notes. The versions I’ve had in Thailand felt more like a supercharged version of pad gaprao than pad see ew.
But here’s where it gets even more interesting: Pad kee mao isn’t even strictly defined by whether it has noodles or not in Thailand. You’ll absolutely find it made with noodles, just like in the US (in fact, pad kee mao made with spaghetti has become a modern adaptation in many Thai kitchens), but you'll also find it with no noodles at all and served alongside rice instead. That isn't to say that noodles are wrong, it's just that there's a lot of nuance here. Among food purists and connoisseurs in Thailand, there’s an understanding that the heart of the dish has much more to do with the intense aromatics of the dish and less to do with the starch. Still, both noodle-packed versions and not exist in Thai culinary culture, and neither is inherently “wrong.”
In my recipe below, I aimed to create a balanced hybrid, combining a smaller amount of noodles with a hefty dose of the bold, aromatic flavors of the noodle-free versions I’ve enjoyed in Thailand. Breaking the dish down into distinct categories: noodles, aromatics, protein, vegetables, sauce, and final touches helps simplify the process.
The NoodlesPad kee mao is not defined as a noodle dish first and foremost. The amount of noodles used in the dish can range from none to a hefty amount, or sometimes even spaghetti, as mentioned above. My reduced ratio of noodles to the other ingredients is a reflection of this, and an attempt to underscore the point that it's all those other things that really make the dish.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBeyond the amount of noodles used, the type and width of noodles selected are key. I think the recipe is best when prepared with fresh rice noodles, which might be more challenging to find if preparing here in the US, but worth the effort. Fresh rice noodles are the key to getting the right kind of noodle texture—slick, tender, and softly chewy. Only fresh noodles have that kind of pleasantly gelatinous chew. While rehydrated dried rice noodles are an acceptable substitute and still make a delicious dish, their differences are obvious, the noodles more firm and chewier. If you can, try to find sheets of fresh noodles that you can cut by hand into nice wide ribbons.
The AromaticsSome non-negotiable ingredients for getting this dish right are grachai, Thai chiles, garlic, and makrut lime leaves. The purist in me would also insist on fresh green peppercorns, but they’re nearly impossible to find outside of brine in the US. Unlike grachai, which works beautifully even when jarred in a brine, brined green peppercorns just don’t compare to their fresh counterpart. I have yet to find a way to make brined ones pop, so please avoid using them just for the sake of tradition.
In terms of prep, the chiles and garlic are pounded into a paste, which allows them to infuse deeply into the oil. In contrast, the grachai is added in julienned strips, contributing texture to the dish without overwhelming it with its mildly medicinal flavor, as it might do if broken down into the paste.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe ProteinWhen making a noodle-free (or, in this case, noodle-reduced) pad kee mao, the protein takes on an even more central role. While slices of pork, as in this recipe, are common, it’s just as typical to see minced pork or crispy, fluffy catfish. Feel free to use any protein you like.
I prefer adding the protein after the aromatics have infused the oil, relying entirely on the sauce to season it. Unlike pad see ew, where I velvet the meat (a nod to the dish's Thai-Chinese origins), with pad kee mao I lean into a more Thai-style approach and skip that step. The sauce provides plenty of seasoning to the meat without the need for the velveting step.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCall it intuition or just a deep respect for traditional techniques, but this is how I approach Thai cooking, and what I want to impart to you: the importance of understanding the essence of each dish and where it comes from. After that, of course, you can do what works best for you.
If Using Fresh Noodle Sheets: Cut fresh noodle sheets into 1 1/2-inch wide strips and place in a mixing bowl; set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf Using Dried Noodles: In a large heatproof bowl, cover noodles with 1 quart boiling water. Allow the noodles to hydrate until pliable, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain thoroughly and rinse three times with cold water to remove excess starch. Return drained noodles to bowl and toss with oil until evenly coated and no longer sticky; set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Stir-Fry Sauce: In a small bowl, whisk together oyster sauce, fish sauce, thin soy sauce, granulated white sugar, and white pepper until well combined; set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez For the Stir-Fry: In a mortar and pestle, pound garlic and Thai red chiles into a rough paste.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezHeat a wok or large carbon-steel, stainless-steel, or cast iron skillet over high heat until lightly smoking. Add oil and swirl to coat the surface. Add garlic-chile paste and cook, using a large spoon or wok spatula to stir constantly, until fragrant but not browned, about 30 seconds; lower heat as needed to prevent garlic from browning.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTurn the heat back to high and add grachai, makrut lime leaves, and pork. Cook, stirring constantly, until the pork is almost fully cooked, about 40 seconds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd long beans, baby corn, and Chinese broccoli and cook, stirring vigorously, until vegetables are just starting to become tender and lightly charred in spots. Add prepared noodles, then pour the sauce in around the sides of the wok. Continue stirring and tossing until the sauce is fully absorbed by the noodles, about 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor Serving: Remove from heat and stir in sliced red chile and basil leaves until basil is just wilted. Serve immediately, offering additional fish sauce, white pepper, Thai chile flakes, sugar, and chile vinegar alongside for diners to stir-in to taste.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentMortar and pestle, wok or large carbon-steel,stainless-steel, or cast iron skillet
NotesThis recipe is best when prepared with fresh rice noodles, which come in sheets that can be cut by hand. Dry rice noodles are a good substitute if you can't find fresh, though the widest ones are not typically as wide as the fresh can be cut, and they have a chewier, more firm texture.
Lime leaves often come in a double-leaf form on each stem. Each of those double leaves (2 per stem) counts as one leaf here in this recipe.
A Holland chile and Fresno chile will have a similar mild heat level that is balanced with a sweet finish, while a fresh Cayenne chile will be spicier. A jalapeño chile may also be substituted in this recipe, though it will deliver less sweetness.
You can buy boneless pork shoulder and slice it very thinly yourself; par-freezing helps for thinner slices. You want roughly 1/8-inch thick slices that are about 1x1.5-inches in size. You can also buy pre-sliced pork as it is sold in Asian markets for hot pot instead.
Serious EatsIt’s no secret that we’re big fans of Vitamix blenders. The brand has the art of blending down to a science, from the most powerful countertop blender we’ve ever tried to a super-efficient immersion blender. While Vitamix products are normally pricey, they’re well worth grabbing, especially when they’re on sale. We happened to catch a few of our favorites discounted at Amazon, with up to $131 off right now.
Vitamix 5200 BlenderAmazonFor 10 years and counting, the Vitamix 5200 has been our favorite blender. It effortlessly blends creamy soups, sauces, and smoothies. The large, tapered jar creates an ideal vortex for pulling in ingredients, and the motor powerfully turns fibers into silky emulsions. Right now, you can grab a 5200 in white on sale.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyVitamix A3500 Ascent Series Smart BlenderAmazonDesigned with all the bells and whistles one could want in a blender, the A3500 has an easy-to-navigate LED touchscreen and self-detection technology that senses container sizes to automatically adjust program settings and blending times.
Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesVitamix E310 Explorian BlenderAmazonIf you just need a simple, petite blender for smoothies or smaller batches of food, we recommend the E310 Explorian blender. Its motor is slightly less powerful, but it still held its own in our tests. It’s also more affordable and comes with a personal blending cup for making smoothies without dirtying the bigger jar. Plus, it’s on sale.
Vitamix Propel 510 BlenderAmazonThe Propel 510 is another petite Vitamix blender that’s similar to the Explorian but comes with presets for smoothies, hot soup, and frozen desserts. It’s also a whopping $131 off.
Vitamix Propel 750 BlenderAmazonAn updated version of our favorite 5200 blender, the Propel 750, comes with a few presets for smoothies, hot soups, and frozen desserts. Otherwise, it functions much the same as the 5200. You can grab it for $50 off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreVitamix Immersion Blender 3-Piece SetAmazonWe loved that this immersion blender features a pan guard to keep from scratching cooking surfaces. Its super-powerful motor makes fast work of blending mayonnaise and soups and cleans up quickly. At its highest setting, it was able to puree celery soup almost entirely, leaving a mere few grams of solids left in the container.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreVitamix 12-Cup Food Processor AttachmentAmazonIf you already have a Vitamix Ascent line blender, it’s worth grabbing this 12-cup food processor attachment while it’s on sale. It was exceptional at emulsifying during our tests and excels at producing smooth sauces and purées.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyVitamix FoodCycler FC-50AmazonWhen we tried the Vitamix FoodCycler, we were impressed with how well it can heat, grind, and dry food scraps. For a small-capacity countertop composter, it performs efficiently, taking a mere six to eight hours to turn scraps into fertilizer. Grab it on sale for $125 off.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhy We’re the Experts* An Uong is a writer for Serious Eats. * An has been testing kitchen gear with Serious Eats for two years. * She loves any excuse to use her blender, be it soups, smoothies, or sauces.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezEven to children, the old fable known as Stone Soup can seem an impossibility—how can anyone be fooled into thinking you can make soup from a stone? Yet for generations Tuscans have done something like that in the form of a dish with a similarly grim name: acquacotta. It means "cooked water."
Like stone soup, there's no real recipe for acquacotta—it's made from whatever you can scrounge up to toss into it. The name makes clear, though, that in the past it wasn't uncommon for it to be little more than boiled water with whatever weeds, shriveled and rotten root vegetables, sprouting garlic, and lichenous scrapings one might have managed to pry off the rocks in the fields. In such times of difficulty, it probably smelled of little more than the desperate will of survival.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn other years and especially into the present, it's safe to assume that acquacotta was a less meager victual, and instead was filled with a season's bounty that could fill bellies and nourish bodies. These more generous versions tend to be how it's made today, even if the ominous name has stuck. As with so many things, there are countless versions of acquacotta that vary with the locale, the seasons, and the cook, but the one I'm sharing below is most associated with the Maremma, a coastal region that runs from southern Tuscany down into northern Lazio.
Centuries ago, before it was drained by order of one of the Medicis around 1600, the region was predominantly marshland, and a malarial one at that. I've read in some Italian cookbooks that the Maremma's acquacotta was often garlic-heavy, not only because the people loved garlic but because the mosquitos that carried malaria hated it. Eating bowls of garlicky acquacotta might just have meant the difference between life and death. That said, today's renditions of acquacotta Maremmana are not necessarily pungent with garlic, though they are built on an aromatic base that includes onions, celery, garlic, and red pepper flakes (for a touch of heat). The goal is to cook the aromatics until meltingly tender and sweet with a mild, clean flavor, which you can accomplish by gently frying them in olive oil, occasionally adding a splash of water or broth to cool the pan down any time the ingredients start to sizzle and brown. You keep repeating this process, simmering down the liquid until the vegetables start to fry, then hit it with another splash of water when the browning gets going.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAbout that liquid: As the name suggests, you can (some may argue should) use water, but of course you don't have to. You could use a light vegetable broth instead for just a bit more flavor. It works either way.
Once the aromatics are melted down, tomatoes typically go into the pot—canned most of the year, though you can switch to fresh in the summer—and it's all simmered together briefly until the flavors meld. Most bowls of acquacotta Maremmana that I've seen actually verge on thick-vegetable-stew territory, not so much brothy soup (though brothier ones do exist), a fact that is helpful for the next stage of this dish's prep: poaching eggs in it. The eggs are cracked and gently slipped into the chunky stew and left to cook until the whites set, at which point you have a generous and flavorful one-pot vegetarian meal that's packed with vegetables, protein, and enough fat to quiet an empty stomach.
Spooned into bowls with garlicky toasts waiting to soak up the juices and topped with grated cheese, olive oil, and black pepper, it's a lot more than the name might lead one to expect, a fact that I'd prefer not to quibble with. I think we can all agree it's a good thing this "cooked-water soup" is in reality not watery nor soupy at all.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large sauté pan or braiser, heat olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion, smashed garlic, celery, and red pepper flakes along with a large pinch of salt and cook, stirring often, until softened and just beginning to brown, about 8 minutes. Add broth or water in small additions (about 1/4 or 1/2 cup at a time) to moisten vegetables and prevent browning, and continue to cook, stirring often and adding more liquid only after it has cooked off and vegetables have begun to fry again, until vegetables are meltingly tender, about 25 minutes.
Serious. Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd canned tomatoes and their juices, crushing them either by hand just before adding or in the pan using a potato masher, making sure to leave some tomato chunks remaining. Thin with additional broth or water as needed (roughly 1 cup) to make a chunky but brothy soup, add basil, and season lightly with salt. Simmer until flavors meld and soup thickens up again, about 15 minutes. Season once more with salt, if needed.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCrack eggs and gently slide into simmering soup. Season eggs lightly with salt, cover pan, and cook until whites are set and yolks are still runny, about 5 minutes. Discard basil sprigs.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeanwhile, rub toasts with remaining clove of garlic, then arrange toasts in serving bowls. When eggs are ready, gently ladle soup and eggs (it will be thick and chunky, more stew than soup) onto toasts. Garnish with a drizzle of olive oil, grated cheese, and freshly ground black pepper. Serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipmentlarge sauté pan or braiser
Make Ahead and StorageSoup can be prepared through step 2, cooled, and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat gently and proceed with the recipe at step 3.
Leftovers do not store or reheat well, but in a pinch, they can be safely stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days and gently reheated on the stovetop or in the microwave.
Serious Eats / Eric KleinbergFall and winter are relatively mild in San Francisco, but the minute temperatures dip below 55ºF (13ºC), I find myself whipping up comforting stews, soups, and one-pot meals to keep myself warm. Some of the heartiest and most delicious bang-for-your-buck recipes involve two pantry staples many people, including myself, keep on hand: chicken and canned tomatoes. With that in mind, I've gathered a few of my favorite chicken and tomato recipes, like succulent chicken cacciatore, creamy enchilada soup, and tikka masala. Most of these meals are ready in under an hour. In other words: Perfectly doable for weeknights or a lazy weekend supper.
Chicken Parmesan SandwichesSerious Eats / Kevin WhiteCrisp, juicy chicken parm smothered in tomato sauce and melty cheese is the kind of hearty fare designed for casual dining on the couch, especially when it's cold outside. Make individual subs or go party-sized to feed a crowd—like when you've got friends over to watch the big game.
The Best Chicken Tikka MasalaSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergA salty yogurt-based marinade and intense charring on a hot grill guarantee a more flavorful and deliciously aromatic chicken tikka masala. Slightly undercooking the chicken—whether on a grill, stovetop grill pan, or even under a broiler—allows you to simmer it in the creamy spiced tomato sauce until tender without risk of overcooking the meat.
Nicaraguan Arroz con PolloSerious Eats / Qi AiThis deeply savory version of chicken and rice is a classic in Nicaraguan kitchens . Tomato paste and ketchup, along with olives, capers, and Parmesan, provide layers of tartness to balance the richness of the smoky sausage and ham.
Chicken Cacciatore With Mushrooms, Tomato, and OnionSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThere is no denying the appeal of tucking into a pot of chicken braised in white wine with mushrooms, onion, and tomato on a chilly evening. What makes this recipe even better is that it has all the flavor and depth of a slow-cooked dish, but can be ready in a little over an hour—so you can have it even on a weeknight.
Better Pressure Cooker Butter ChickenSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis version of butter chicken hits all the right notes: It has a mildly spiced tomato-based sauce, tender charred chicken, and a generous dose of butter and cream. Plus: It can be made in under an hour. To give the sauce more depth of flavor, use canned fire-roasted tomatoes.
30-Minute Pressure Cooker Chicken With Chickpeas, Tomatoes, and ChorizoSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThis easy one-pot meal gets its smoky flavor from chorizo, smoked paprika, and roasted tomatoes—and takes just 30 minutes to come together. Keep it in your back pocket for busy weeknights or evenings when you simply don't feel like cooking or doing the dishes.
Easy Creamy Chicken Enchilada SoupSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt
What can you make with some chicken, canned chopped tomatoes, dried chiles, and chicken stock? Well, add some corn kernels, green chiles, canned black beans, cheese, and a few aromatics and you've got yourself a pot of delightfully cheesy enchilada soup.
Easy One-Pot Chicken BouillabaisseSerious Eats / Yasmin FahrWho says bouillabaisse has to be made with seafood? Here, we take all the components of the southern French classic—tomatoes, saffron, fennel, and garlicky mayonnaise-like rouille—and pair it with perfectly browned chicken for an easy, satisfying one-pot meal.
Easy Pressure Cooker Chicken and Chickpea MasalaSerious Eats / J. Kenji Lopez-AltTangy, spicy, and ridiculously comforting, this easy pressure cooker version of chicken and chickpea masala is the kind of meal that feels like you're putting on your favorite fuzzy sweater.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMy go-to weeknight meal when I don’t feel like cooking is one that involves barely any dishes and requires just 10 minutes of active prep time: baked sweet potatoes. Loaded up with melted cheddar, crispy bacon, minced chives, and sour cream, baked potatoes—whether you choose to use starchy russets or sweet garnets—are a simple and filling dinner. Beyond its ease, the beauty of the baked potato is that you can fill and top it however you’d like, and they’re a great vessel for using up leftovers like chili, shepherd’s pie filling, or Bolognese.
Though baking sweet potatoes isn’t difficult, it’s still worth taking the time to go the extra mile to guarantee each spud is truly delicious and doesn’t taste like an afterthought. (They may be practically effortless, but they don’t have to taste effortless!) Below, you’ll find several key techniques—some of which Serious Eats editorial director Daniel has already touched on in his ultimate baked potato recipe—that will help you make the very best loaded sweet potatoes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezHow to Make Outrageously Delicious Loaded Baked Sweet PotatoesChoose the right size sweet potato. Sweet potatoes can significantly differ in size, with some as small as a finger and others weighing more than a pound. Though you’re more than welcome to use whatever size of sweet potato you have, keep in mind that the baking time will vary depending on how large or small your sweet potatoes are. In my recipe below, I recommend using medium sweet potatoes, which take about an hour and fifteen minutes to bake. Medium or large sweet potatoes are also easier to load the toppings onto than small ones.
Puncture your sweet potatoes. Both Daniel and former Serious Eats editor Kenji recommend puncturing potatoes with a paring knife to prevent steam from building up and causing the spud to explode, which can cause a tremendous mess in your oven and, more importantly, can cause burns if a potato explodes when you are checking it in the oven or handling it. So: Puncture those taters and handle them with care.
Oil the sweet potatoes, then leave them unwrapped. For sweet potato skins that bake up slightly crisp, give them a light coating of oil and skip wrapping them in foil. While many baked potato recipes call for wrapping the spuds in foil, this doesn’t exponentially speed up their cooking, nor does it produce a more delicious potato. As Daniel found in his testing, wrapping potatoes in foil only achieves one thing: soggy skins. By leaving the sweet potatoes unwrapped and rubbing them in oil, we get crispy yet tender potato skins that you actually want to eat.
Bake them on a wire rack. As tempting as it may be to just chuck the sweet potatoes on a sheet pan, placing the spuds straight onto the baking sheet can result in burned bottoms. I recommend baking the sweet potatoes on a wire rack set into a rimmed baking sheet—this allows hot air to circulate around each potato so they cook more evenly. No wire rack? Bake the sweet potatoes straight on your oven rack—just be sure to keep a sheet pan or sheet of foil on the rack below to catch any drips.
Mash the sweet potatoes with butter, then use the mixture to stuff the skins. Go the extra mile by scooping out the cooked sweet potato flesh, mashing it with butter, then using that mixture to fill the skins. If you’re baking four potatoes, you can refill each skin to make four moderately stuffed sweet potatoes, or fill half of the skins for two big, overstuffed sweet potatoes.
Get creative with the toppings. You can’t go wrong with classic loaded baked potato toppings, but there are lots of other fun garnishes to consider. I love to top my sweet potatoes with a large swoop of labne and tahini, a hearty bean chili, or corn salad. Follow your heart—or your stomach. It won’t lead you astray.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdjust oven rack to middle position and preheat to 375ºF (190ºC). Using a fork or paring knife, puncture sweet potatoes in several spots. Rub each sweet potato all over with a light coating of oil. Arrange on a wire rack set on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until a fork can easily be inserted into the center of each sweet potato and skin is crisp and lightly browned, about 1 hour 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLet sweet potatoes rest 5 minutes. Slice each open lengthwise almost all the way through, open like a book, and scoop flesh into a mixing bowl. Add butter, season with salt and pepper, and using a potato masher, mash until butter is incorporated but potatoes are still slightly chunky.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezScoop mashed sweet potatoes back into skins. (You can refill each skin, making 4 smaller potatoes, or use all the mashed sweet potatoes to refill only half the skins, making 2 overstuffed sweet potatoes.) Using your hands, reshape each stuffed sweet potato back into a classic baked potato shape.
Top with toppings of your choice. To melt cheese, add it first, then return sweet potatoes to oven until cheese is melted, about 1 minute. If topping with chili, place about 1/2 cup chili onto potato, top with grated cheddar, then return stuffed sweet potatoes to oven until cheese is melted, about 1 minute. Serve right away.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentWire rack, rimmed baking sheet, potato masher
NotesIf you’re baking four potatoes, you can refill each skin to make four smaller sweet potatoes, or fill two of the skins for two big, overstuffed sweet potatoes.
This recipe can be doubled.
Make-Ahead and StorageOnce cooled, baked sweet potatoes can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Reheat in a 350ºF (175ºC) oven, air fryer, or microwave until warmed through.
Serious Eats / Two BitesI love any recipe that can be made in just one cooking vessel. My partner and I started cooking sheet-pan dinners in the wintertime a few years ago, and this spice-rubbed pork tenderloin, sweet potato, and broccoli recipe is one of our favorite sheet-pan meals to prepare together. We often choose to cook pork tenderloin at home since it’s affordable, juicy, delicious, and filling.
For a quick weeknight dinner, roasting everything on the same sheet pan is an easy and convenient way to achieve a complete, balanced meal that still delivers incredible flavor. To get juicy pork, lightly browned sweet potatoes, and tender broccoli, you only need 30 minutes total cooking time, but there are a few key steps to ensure great results every time. Here are my tips to perfect this meal.
Serious Eats / Two Bites4 Simple Tips for a Sheet-Pan Pork Tenderloin Dinner That’s Anything But Basic1. Use a medley of spices for the best flavor. As a chef of Indian origin, I have always enjoyed using my favorite spices even when I’m not making Indian food. So I am always experimenting with spices I think will pair well with different ingredients—in this dish I love the complex warm flavor of garam masala with the sweet potatoes and earthy cumin and coriander with the savory pork and broccoli. Adding a liberal amount of spices to each component of the one-pan dish is an easy way to build complex and exciting flavors in such an otherwise simple meal.
Make sure to use fresh ground spices for this recipe: Spices lose their flavor quickly and you will not get the same intense flavor from store-bought powders that have been in your pantry for more than a few months. I grind my favorite spices–coriander seed, cumin seed, and my own garam masala blend–often so they are fresh, aromatic, and intensely flavorful when I need them. If you don't grind your spices just be sure to buy pre-ground spices frequently and use them up quickly.
2. Stud the pork with garlic. One of my favorite ways to ensure incredibly savory and aromatic pork tenderloin is to stud it with garlic, which infuses the meat with flavor while it roasts. Adding the garlic is relatively easy; I recommend using a paring knife to cut small slices—about 1/2-inch wide, and 1/4-inch deep—evenly spaced down the length of the tenderloin. The garlic slices should be pushed completely into the slits, so the slices are flush with the top of the loin and not exposed, ensuring the top of each garlic piece won’t burn while cooking.
Once roasted, the garlic–infused pork is juicy and aromatic and pairs beautifully with the sweet tubers and earthy broccoli. When slicing to serve, you can simply remove the garlic and discard, or enjoy the tender slices of garlic with the pork, which is what I like to do.
3. Add the pork, sweet potatoes, and broccoli in stages. The problem with many sheet-pan dinner recipes is that everything just gets tossed on the same pan at the same time, then chucked in the oven to roast. This often leads to uneven cooking, withone element undercooked while another is overcooked—you could end up with mushy or crunchy underdone sweet potatoes and broccoli and charred or undercooked pork. To avoid this, I start by preheating the rimmed baking sheet—this jumpstarts browning—then add the sweet potatoes and roast briefly at 425°F before nestling the pork into the center of the pan to partially roast, and finally I add the broccoli, which cooks the fastest. When added at these staggered stages, all three elements will finish cooking properly at the same time.
Serious Eats / Two BitesTo further ensure browning and to keep the dish from being soggy, center the tenderloin on the pan and be sure to spread the vegetables out on each side of the pork rather than piling them up or placing them underneath the pork.
Another perk to adding ingredients at different times is that you can multi-task and save on overall prep time: While the sweet potatoes are initially cooking, you can get the pork ready, and while the pork and sweet potatoes cook together, you have time to prepare the broccoli. Using your time wisely by overlapping prep and roasting time means less overall time spent in the kitchen, which is exactly what I want on a busy weeknight.
4. Keep the vegetables warm while resting the pork before slicing. Once everything is roasted, the pork will need to rest for five to ten minutes before slicing to ensure it retains its juices. But you don’t want the vegetables to get cold while the pork rests. To avoid this, my trick is turning off the oven and keeping the sheet pan with the vegetables on it warm in the now-off oven for just a few minutes while the pork rests and is being sliced. This way the entire meal is nice and hot when ready to serve.
This meal serves two to three people, and is often more than plenty for my partner and me. The leftover pork slices make a great lunch sandwich the next day with mayo or cranberry chutney, Dijon mustard, tomatoes, and lettuce.
Adjust oven rack to middle position. Set a rimmed baking sheet on rack and preheat oven with empty sheet to 425℉ (220℃). In a medium bowl, toss sweet potatoes with 2 tablespoons oil, garam masala, and 1 3/4 teaspoons salt to combine. Working quickly, carefully spread into an even layer on preheated sheet and roast for 8 minutes, stirring once halfway through.
Serious Eats / Two BitesWhile sweet potatoes roast, pat tenderloin dry with paper towels and place on a cutting board. Using a very sharp knife, cut 6 slits evenly spaced across the length of the loin, each slit about 1/2-inch wide and about 1/4-inch deep. Divide garlic slices and place into each slit so the garlic sits flush with the top of the meat (not sticking out). Rub 1 tablespoon oil all over the pork, then rub with 2 teaspoons coriander, 1 teaspoon cumin, and 1 teaspoon salt, pressing gently into the pork to adhere.
Serious Eats / Two BitesOnce sweet potatoes have cooked for 8 minutes, remove sheet pan from oven, move sweet potatoes to one side of pan, and place the pork, garlic side up, next to the sweet potatoes, across the center of the pan. Roast pork and sweet potatoes for 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Two BitesWhile the pork and sweet potatoes roast, in a medium bowl, toss broccoli with remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons oil, remaining 2 teaspoons ground coriander, remaining 1 teaspoon ground cumin, remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and sugar, if using.
Serious Eats / Two BitesOnce pork has cooked for 10 minutes, remove sheet pan from oven and add broccoli to empty side of the pan next to the pork, spreading it in an even layer. Roast everything until the pork registers 135 to 140°F (54 to 60°C) for medium or 155 to 165℉ for well done, the broccoli is crisp-tender, and sweet potatoes fully tender, 8 to 12 minutes.
Serious Eats / Two BitesTransfer pork to a cutting board and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Turn off oven and hold sheet pan with vegetables warm while pork rests. Slice rested pork, remove garlic pieces (serve garlic with the meal or discard). Serve pork with roasted vegetables and lemon wedges.
Serious Eats / Two BitesSpecial EquipmentRimmed baking sheet
NotesThis recipe can be easily doubled to serve 4. Simply use two sheet pans and cook for the same length of time, switching the shelf the pans are on halfway through cooking so each gets even heat.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe sweet potatoes and the broccoli can be cut and refrigerated in airtight containers for up to 1 day before cooking.
Leftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyA paper towel holder may seem inconsequential. And truthfully, in a world that’s increasingly prioritizing reusable over disposable, maybe it’s becoming a thing of the past. But, also truthfully, I still use paper towels. Millennial that I am, I even employ them as napkins (gasp!). (Plus, you can stick a roll of reusable paper towels on a holder, too, so there ya go.)
In short, a good paper towel holder—one that keeps a roll easily accessible when I need to tear a square—is essential in my kitchen. It also shouldn’t traipse across my countertop with a tug. To find the best ones, I tested 11 models by loading up on fancy and cheap paper towels alike and got ripping.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe “steady” in the name of this product is spot-on: In my tests, it didn’t wobble or waver in its paper towel-holding duty. I ripped off towels with little effort, and the snug fit prevented the roll from unspooling.
I’ve actually had this paper towel holder for years and thought nothing of it. But during testing, I realized that its hefty marble composition is not only pretty, it’s also practical: The weight keeps it from tipping over or sliding across my countertop when I tear a towel.
Like the standing paper towel holder from OXO, this mounted version sports a thicker rod that makes it easy to rip a piece off with one hand without tearing. It was also simple to install.
If you like a mounted paper towel holder but don’t want to (or can’t) drill holes in your kitchen, then this magnetic offering is a fantastic solution. I used it on both my fridge and a metal kitchen rack and it stayed attached even with some aggressive tugs.
The TestsWe used each paper towel holder, noting if it was easy to rip pieces off.Serious Eats / Grace Kelly Set Up Test: I set up each (or installed, in the case of mounted ones) paper towel holder, noting if it was easy or took some fiddling. * Paper Towel Tear Test: I placed a roll of jumbo towels on each holder, then tore a piece off. I noted if the paper towel holder kept the roll steady, if the roll unraveled excessively with each rip, and if it stayed put on my countertop. I repeated this with cheaper paper towels to see if there was a difference. * Daily Usage Test:* I used my favorite paper towel holders for a week during my daily cooking and cleaning routine.
What We LearnedWeighty Paper Towel Holders Were BetterLightweight paper towel holders skittered across the countertop with each tug.Serious Eats / Grace KellyI often grab a paper towel when something spills or splatters during cooking. It’s not always a gentle action, and if the paper towel holder falls over mid-rip, then I’ve got two messes on my hands. So, the best paper towel holders were heavy-duty. The Crate & Barrel Marble Paper Towel Holder weighs 3.8 pounds, which helped keep it from tipping or moving when I tore a towel off. The same could not be said for the Hawkins New York Wood Paper Towel Holder, which only weighs 14.1 ounces and slid across my countertop every time I ripped off a towel. It was also so light that, a tug tipped it over.
Simple Was Best Complicated paper towel holders, like the three pictured here, are more trouble than they're worth.Serious Eats / Grace KellySome paper towel holders include arms that supposedly make tearing off a towel easier. But, oftentimes, they were only an impediment to putting on a roll. The Yamazaki Tosca One-Handed Tear Paper Towel Holder featured a looped metal piece that you thread the towel through, which was supposed to make it easier to cleanly rip off a piece. But it didn’t make a big difference and it was more work to set up than just plunking a roll on a simple rod-and-base holder. The OXO Good Grips SimplyTear Paper Towel Holder and Simplehuman Paper Towel Holder feature arms that spring into place to hold the roll steady while you tear, but they didn’t perform any better than holders without arms.
Thicker Rods Made for More ControlThicker paper towel holders helped make tearing a towel easy and precise.Serious Eats / Grace KellyHolders with thicker rods, like the OXO Good Grips Steady Paper Towel Holder, held the paper towel steady as I tugged. The roll fit snugly, which made tearing a towel off feel more controlled, so I could only rip off what I needed. Thinner rods, like on the Williams Sonoma x Morris & Co. Paper Towel Holder, caused the roll to wobble and spin quickly, and I’d often unravel too much towel in my effort to tear off a single piece.
Paper Towel Quality Affected PerformanceExpensive paper towels were trickier to tug off cleanly, since they often are thicker and have some stretch to them.Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhile my favorite paper towel holders had qualities that made them better than others, I found the type of paper towel affected performance. For example, cheaper paper towels unroll much more easily than heavy, thick ones. When I used the latter in testing, most paper towel holders stayed steady when I pulled. But when I used Viva paper towels, which were stretchy and had a clingy, felt-like texture, it took more finagling to unwrap and tear off a piece. The tear test revealed which towel holders were prone to skittering across the counter or tipping over. The size of the roll also made a difference: The Williams Sonoma has an inset base that couldn’t accommodate a larger roll.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Paper Towel Holder Serious Eats / Grace KellyA good paper towel holder should stay in place and be easy to set up and use. Lightweight, free-standing ones slid across the counter, while heavyset, weighty ones stayed rooted with each tug. Arms were superfluous, and a thick rod was more efficient at keeping a roll from unraveling excessively. Finally, holders with inset bases couldn’t accommodate larger rolls.
When choosing between a freestanding or mounted towel holder, consider your space: Most mounted holders need to be screwed into the wall but save counter space, while freestanding ones are super easy to set up but take up room. I did find a great in-between: a magnetic-mounted towel holder from Yamazaki, which I stuck on my stainless steel fridge.
Our Favorite Paper Towel HoldersWhat we liked: This is truly the perfect paper towel holder: It stayed put when I ripped towels off and the thick rod prevented rolls from excessively unraveling with each tug. The stainless steel base has a classic look that’ll fit into any kitchen, and it can accommodate rolls of all sizes. It’s also less than $30.
What we didn’t like: Honestly, there wasn’t much to dislike. It was more wobbly when I got down to the last few pieces of paper towel.
Key Specs Height: 13.75 inches * Weight: 1.15 pounds * Width at base: 7.13 inches * Materials:* Stainless steel
What we liked: I’ve been using this paper towel holder for years, and its sturdy marble construction is elegant and practical. Marble is heavy and prevents the holder from sliding across the countertop when a towel is tugged. It also looks nice. Because the bottom of the holder is a simple disk, it could fit standard and jumbo rolls easily.
What we didn’t like: A roll ofpaper towels doesn’t fit snugly on the rod, so they are prone to unraveling more.
Key Specs Height: 13.25 inches * Weight: 3.8 pounds * Width at base: 6.5 inches * Materials:* Marble
What we liked: This is the mounted version of my favorite paper towel holder, and it’s great for the same reasons: It has a wide rod so a roll of paper towels fits snugly, ensuring you only get what you want and don’t unspool the whole thing. It was also easy to install, with no awkward angling of the drill necessary, and it hung down far enough that I could fit a jumbo roll on without smushing it.
What we didn’t like: Without a roll on it, the gray faceted rod isn’t very attractive.
Key Specs Pole length: 11.75 inches * Weight: 8.6 ounces * Hanging depth: 5 inches * Materials:* Stainless steel
What we liked: I was skeptical that a magnetic paper towel holder would stay put with more desperate tugs. But I was pleasantly surprised: It held fast both on my stainless steel refrigerator and metal kitchen shelf. This made it super convenient, since I could have the space-saving quality of a mounted holder without having to break out a drill. Plus, it’s easy to move. It fit both slim and jumbo rolls, and it was easy to tear off a piece without it ripping wonkily.
My colleague Rochelle Bilow has been using the Yamazaki for a few months now and loves it. “I own loads of Yamazaki stuff, so when I saw Grace was testing this, I bought it without waiting to read her results. I immediately loved the modern aesthetic that matched the rest of my kitchen,” she says.
What we didn’t like: The o-rings that secure the wooden rod to the holder are clear; I dropped one once and it took me a while to find it. The rod is thin, so rolls do wobble and spin more than on a thicker one.
Key Specs Pole length: 11.5 inches * Weight: 10.3 ounces * Hanging depth: 3.5 inches * Materials:* Wood, alloy steel
The CompetitionAlso Good* OXO Good Grips SimplyTear Paper Towel Holder: This was another solid contender that held jumbo and smaller rolls, spun tightly, and was easy to rip from. The arm didn’t help nor hinder its usage. It was edged out by the OXO Good Grips Steady Paper Towel Holder, which is a smidge cheaper. * Simplehuman Paper Towel Holder: This tall paper towel holder was a little tippy, but other than that, it performed fine. It’s quite expensive, though, and not any better than my more affordable top picks. * Simplehuman Quick-Load Paper Towel Holder: Another solid performer, this was just edged out by the OXO Mounted Paper Towel Holder, which had a thicker rod and produced less unraveling. It was also a little more difficult to install since some of the screw holes were near or under the rod, which made angling the drill tricky.
Not Recommended* Yamazaki Tosca One-Handed Tear Paper Towel Holder: This holder has a built-in metal loop that you thread a towel through that’s supposed to make ripping off a piece easier. But it didn’t, and it was more work than just plopping a roll on a rod. It also wasn’t the sturdiest holder and a strong tug sent it across the counter. * Williams Sonoma x Morris & Co. Paper Towel Holder: This pretty holder features a base with a raised lip, so only smaller paper towel rolls can fit. It was also wobbly and slid across the countertop. * Hawkins New York Wood Paper Towel Holder: A mere 14.1 ounces was way too light for a standing towel holder—it stumbled across the countertop every time I pulled a towel off. It's currently out of stock. * IKEA TORKAD Kitchen Roll Holder: Another incredibly lightweight towel holder (it’s 7.7 ounces), it fell over when I ripped off a piece of towel. It does have drill holes on the bottom so you can screw it into a wall, but it’s just so flimsy.
FAQsWhat’s the best paper towel holder for large rolls?All of our winners, including picks from OXO, Crate and Barrel, and Yamazaki, worked really well with jumbo paper towel rolls.
Is a paper towel holder worth it?If you want to keep paper towels within arm's reach and not have them rolling around when you tear off a piece, then yes, we think they’re worth it.
Why We’re the Experts * Grace Kelly is an editor at Serious Eats. * She’s tested kitchen gear for four years and worked in restaurants and bars. * For this review, she used 11 paper towel holders, examining if they fit rolls big and small, were steady when tugging a piece off, and if they were easy to set up and use.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCacio e pepe is one of those maddening dishes that seems so simple yet is so easy to mess up. In its truest form, it contains exceedingly few ingredients—pasta, Pecorino Romano cheese, black pepper, water, and salt—and when made properly, it is a beautiful expression of each. The cheese sauce is pure and sharp, but absolutely smooth and creamy; the black pepper is fragrant and supplies of spicy punch to back up the sharpness of the cheese; the pasta is the scaffolding that carries it all; and the water and salt play their respective roles to ensure the right sauce consistency and seasoning.
The hard part, of course, is making it properly. Pecorino Romano cheese is an aged cheese that's dry and crumbly, which means it is just about the worst kind of cheese for melting. So much as look at it the wrong way when trying to melt it into the sauce and it will seize, separate, and clump into little stringy bits. There is no saving it once this happens. (There is still eating it, and I've eaten plenty of my own failed attempts at cacio e pepe over the years and they still taste good even when the sauce is messed up.)
People have tried to come up with ways to stabilize the cacio e pepe sauce to prevent it from breaking, often to the chagrin of offended Italians. They add cream or butter, for instance, which provide an emulsified base into which the cheese can melt and dilute, reducing its propensity for breaking. But none of the resulting dishes taste quite like a true cacio e pepe, which has an austerity to it despite its richness—it is pure, liquified Pecorino Romano with black pepper. Cream and butter interfere with this purity, adding their own richness while diluting the intensity of the cheese.
It's easy to make fun of Italians for being so wedded to their culinary traditions, casting them as adherents to tradition for tradition's sake and fearful of innovation. That may be true sometimes, but more often the truth is that they understand their food deeply, and they recognize when "improvements" break the inherent character of a dish, as cream and butter do in a cacio e pepe.
But here's the good news: There is an innovative way to make a cacio e pepe sauce that is much more resistant to breaking, and it avoids the pitfalls of the other methods, producing a silky sauce that tastes of Pecorino Romano cheese and black pepper and nothing else. With that plus a couple other careful steps, the result is phenomenal cacio e pepe, every time.
The Traditional Method of Making Cacio e PepeSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezCacio e pepe is one of Rome's essential pasta dishes alongside classics like amatriciana, gricia, and carbonara. I've spent many a night trying to make perfect cacio e pepe using just the traditional method, and at this point I have a pretty high success rate. But it's not 100%. I still have days when the sauce breaks on me, at times in inexplicable ways, suggesting that even subtle variations in the process can make the difference between success and failure.
Before explaining the innovative steps for making perfect cacio e pepe, it helps to review the basic traditional method. The following is one common method:
- Boil pasta.
- While the pasta boils, make a cheese paste with grated Pecorino Romano, black pepper, and some of the starchy pasta water.
- Transfer the boiled pasta to the cheese paste, thinning with additional pasta water as needed to produce a sauce that is creamy and emulsified, coating the pasty in a silky glaze.
Various things can create trouble during this process. Too much heat can cause the cheese to break, as can cheese that's not grated finely enough. It's a delicate dance to bring all the elements together successfully, ending up with a pasta that's still hot enough to eat and cheese that has melted into the sauce but not broken in the process.
The key to cacio e pepe that doesn't break is to introduce an ingredient that can help stabilize the sauce without diluting it or introducing any unwanted flavors or textures. That ingredient is cornstarch, a common household ingredient we all usually have in our cabinets.
The Sauce Innovation: CornstarchSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezIt shouldn't be a surprise that cornstarch has great powers when it comes to cheese sauce stabilization. It's a common ingredient in other cheese sauces that are prone to breaking, like mac and cheese. In Kenji's famous old recipe for stovetop mac and cheese, he uses cornstarch among other emulsifiers to make a sauce that's like the boxed stuff, but better. The concept applies just as well here, and to be honest, I'm slapping myself for not realizing it long before.
This idea came to me much more recently when someone posted on the Serious Eats subreddit with a link to a science research paper titled Phase Behavior of Cacio and Pepe Sauce. In it, the scientists studied the effects of cheese coagulation as they related to both temperature and starch quantities, and developed an ideal ratio of cheese and cornstarch to yield a more bulletproof sauce.
I should note, this paper isn't the first time the idea of using starch to stabilize cacio e pepe has been floated; first, the underlying concept of the sauce relies on the naturally starchy pasta water to play this role, though the quantity of starch is lower and highly variable depending on the quantities of both the pasta and the water and the brand of pasta itself. In recent years, both Ethan Chlebowski of Cook Well and Roman chef Luciano Monosilio have written and/or made videos about it. What the paper adds to the conversation is a deeper look at the physical processes that cause the cheese to break as well as a systematic testing of starch concentrations to hit a dialed-in sweet spot that isn't too stiff from starch but still provides sufficient stabilization.
The reason this works has to do with why the cheese breaks in the first place. As the cheese is heated, the proteins in it bond with each other, squeezing tighter and tighter. As they squeeze, the fat that had been suspended in a stable emulsion is forced out, leading to stringy clumps and greasy oil. By introducing a cooked cornstarch gel, we're able to increase the viscosity of the cheese mixture. On a molecular level, it can help to imagine the starch as a kind of interlocked network that gets in the way of the cheese proteins moving as freely, finding each other, and bonding tightly.
It's an insurance policy that delivers fantastic results.
In practice, and with a couple small culinary techniques of my own, the process goes like this:
- Boil the pasta.
- While the pasta is boiling, dry-toast the black pepper in a small saucepan to develop its fragrance.
- To the pan with the pepper, add a cornstarch slurry in a 1:10 ratio of starch to water by weight and cook it until the starch gels, forming a thickened, peppery gel.
- Let this gel cool slightly off heat, then mix it into the cheese to form a cheese-pepper paste.
- Use some of the pasta water to rinse out the cornstarch gel saucepan and add this to the cheese paste as well.
- Reserve some pasta water, then drain the pasta and let it cool slightly.
- Mix the pasta into the cheese paste, adding reserved pasta water as needed to thin to a silky, creamy sauce.
The result will be perfect, every time.
Flavor Enhancement: Toasting the PepperSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis is one of those small details that isn't essential, but helps make an even more flavorful dish. Toasting the black pepper develops its aromas and flavors, a process Nik Sharma has explained well for us before in his piece on South Asian tadka.
Heat ... promotes two flavor-producing reactions: caramelization and the Maillard reaction. When sugars are heated, they undergo a series of chemical reactions that result in browning and new flavor molecules, which we identify as caramelization. The Maillard reaction refers to a series of reactions that involve the amino acids present in proteins and certain sugars (reducing sugars like glucose and fructose), but it also leads to browning and the development of new flavor substances. These reactions happen in foods of all sizes, not just onions or large cuts of meat. Even the essential oils inside spices are transformed chemically through oxidation during heating. The combined effect of these different transformations helps change the flavor profile of each of the individual ingredients...
Since we're heating a pan to make the cornstarch gel anyway, we might as well toast the pepper in it first. That's just smart cooking.
Key Technique: Managing HeatSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezOne of the more subtle and difficult to control factors when making cacio e pepe is the heat. Make the classic sauce too hot, and it will definitely break. But let the ingredients cool off too much and you'll be eating tepid cheesy pasta, which is not my idea of a good time.
When making cacio e pepe the traditional way, managing the heat properly is one of the most critical skills a cook can develop to ensure success. When making this version with cornstarch, we have a bit more leeway, though it's still a good idea to be careful with the heat, allowing any component that is literally boiling hot to blow off just a little heat by letting it sit a minute or so before introducing it to the cheese sauce. This includes letting the cornstarch gel cool just a tad, as well as the drained pasta and the pasta water itself. Just make sure nothing cools too much, because you do want the final dish to be hot.
On Cheese Grating and BlendingIn the past, we've stressed the point that for a smoother cheese sauce, it's helpful to grate the cheese more finely. In my own tests, I found that hard cheeses like Parm and Pecorino Romano melt less well when they're grated on a Microplane versus to a finer dust on the star-shaped side of an old-school box grater. The starch in this recipe makes this a somewhat less critical point, though it's still helpful to grate the cheese as finely as you can.
The research paper itself recommends using a blender to process the cornstarch slurry and cheese to a paste, and you could do that, but I have had great success without doing that and would rather not dirty another piece of equipment if I can help it. If you do struggle to sufficiently blend the cheese and the cornstarch gel to form a thick paste, you can try using a blender as an aid.
In a large sauté pan, pasta pot, or Dutch oven, bring lightly salted water to a boil. Add spaghetti and cook, stirring, until al dente (according to your preference or package directions).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together cornstarch and water to make a slurry. In a small dry saucepan, heat pepper over medium-high heat until fragrant and very lightly toasted, about 1 minute. Stir starch slurry to combine if settled, then add to saucepan, stirring and swirling, until slurry thickens into a clear, viscous sauce. Remove from heat and let cool for 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large mixing bowl, combine grated cheese with starch gel, stirring to fully combine and form a stiff but smooth paste. Transfer about 1/4 cup pasta water from the cooking pot to the small saucepan, swirling and stirring to pick up any additional starchy gel clinging to the sides, then stir into the cheese paste.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezReserve 1 cup pasta water, then drain pasta. Let pasta cool slightly for 1 minute, then add to the cheese paste along with about 1/4 cup reserved pasta water, stirring to combine. Continue to add reserved pasta water in 1/4-cup additions until the cheese sauce is creamy and smooth and coats all the pasta in an even, silky glaze; season with additional salt if needed. Serve right away on warmed plates, topping with additional grated cheese and black pepper, if desired.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNotesThis recipe is designed to use 225g of pasta, which is half of a 1-pound package of pasta; if using imported pasta that comes in 500g packages, you can use half of that, which will be 250g, just slightly more than than the American-market pasta products.
Serious Eats / Yasmine MaggioWhile store-bought salad dressing is an undeniable convenience, it's also a frequent salad-killer—there's just no comparing a bottled vinaigrette to a good, basic homemade one. To save myself the hassle of having to whip up dressing when I'm hungry, I always keep a batch of my favorite lemon vinaigrette on hand. But I also go one step further and keep it in a squeeze bottle, ready to go.
It’s not just any squeeze bottle, though: It’s one that I label with a marker to indicate how much oil and acid I should add. This saves me from having to pull up a recipe and dirty measuring cups; when I’m ready to make a new batch each week, all I have to do is wash and dry the bottle, use the markings on the it to measure out a new batch of vinaigrette, then shake it all together.
Serious Eats / Yasmine MaggioMarking one of these labeled squeeze bottles is a quick and easy two-minute trick that will save you time each week. For a simple vinaigrette, you’ll want to use three parts oil to one part vinegar. To properly mark the bottle, first measure your vinegar and add it to the squeeze bottle, using a permanent marker to draw a line on the outside of the bottle at the top of the vinegar level. Next, with the vinegar still in the bottle, measure and add the oil, marking the oil level as well. It's helpful to do the vinegar first and then the oil, because that's how they settle due to their differing densities.
If needed, you can scribble salt, pepper, and mustard at the bottom as a reminder to add them, but since their quantities are so small, there's no way to mark their total volume on the bottle the way you would with vinegar and oil. Once you fill the bottle with the oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, and mustard, just shake it to combine everything.
While this is a baseline recipe for vinaigrette, you can swap some of the ingredients to your liking. (Too little mustard, though, may result in a dressing that won’t emulsify as well.) Experiment with oils like avocado, olive, or grapeseed, and vinegars like balsamic, sherry, white wine, or apple cider. You can add seasonings like dried oregano to give your vinaigrette Italian flair, as well as aromatics like very finely minced shallots and garlic. (If you’re including these chunkier ingredients, make sure the tip of your squeeze bottle is large enough for them to come out of, snipping off the top with a pair of scissors to enlarge it.)
Also note that adding ingredients like garlic to the vinaigrette significantly reduces its shelf life, taking it from more or less shelf-stable even at room temperature down to only a few days in the refrigerator. That's because garlic can produce botulism toxins when stored in oil, whether refrigerated or not.
Serious Eats / Yasmine MaggioIf you’re not a fan of plastic, this will also work on a glass jar, but you’ll want to use an oil-based paint marker instead of a permanent marker. (Glass is a non-porous surface, making it difficult for Sharpie ink to adhere to.) In my experience, a permanent marker stays on plastic bottles but a paint marker adheres better to the glass jar—but either way, you’ll want to wash each by hand so the markings don’t fade. If fading does occur, you can always reapply the markings.
Once assembled in the marked bottle, the vinaigrette can be refrigerated for weeks and weeks if it only contains vinegar, oil, mustard, salt, and pepper, but only a few days if it contains garlic and other botulism-prone ingredients. It makes meal prep a breeze—and will ensure your salads are not just good but spectacular.
Serious EatsA few years ago, while testing coffee makers for Serious Eats, I learned how easily poorly designed machines make bad cups of joe. Back then, I worked with a barista who brought in a refractometer to measure the coffee’s total dissolved solids (TDS), and we chatted about temperatures, brew times, and extraction. It was all very technical. While I’m not a coffee nerd—I may only detect one or two of the tasting notes that roasters slap on bags of beans—that testing convinced me to switch to the pour-over method at home. I became leery of a coffee maker’s water heater and pump.
Water volume and temperature are where many coffee makers fall short. Miss those marks and you can end up with a weak brew or one with off flavors, even with freshly ground beans. Mechanical mistrust is why each morning I fuss with pour-over. Poring over all the variables, I make coffee that’s better than any coffee maker in my price range. AI might be taking over, but I’ve yet to use a machine that meters out water more accurately than a human with a kettle, a scale, and a few minutes of time.
But while a pour-over is accurate, it’s also slow and requires hands-on time. Those are not traits most folks love dealing with first thing in the morning. That’s what Aiden’s aiming to fix.
After a couple of weeks of twice (and sometimes thrice) daily brewing, I’m confident this coffee maker will earn a spot on the counter of even the pickiest of pour-over aficionados.
The TestsI took the temperature right after brewing and after some time passed, to see how well the Aiden kept coffee hot.Serious Eats Single-Cup and Batch Brew Taste Test: I brewed coffee in two volumes: a single-serve 300-milliliter/10.1-ounce cup and a 750-milliliter/25.4-ounce carafe, using the same medium roast beans and 1:16 ratio. Then I tasted them for consistency and repeated this test three times. * Head-to-Head vs. Pour-Over Test: Using the same amount of water (240 milliliters/8.1 ounces), freshly ground coffee (15 grams), and cone-style filters, I made mugs using the standard pour-over method and the Aiden, following the machine’s total brew time. After brewing, I took the temperature and weight of the coffees and then tasted them to compare. I repeated this test three times. * Temperature Holding Test: I brewed 473 milliliters/16 ounces of coffee into Aiden’s insulated carafe. I measured the initial temperature and the drop after an hour using an instant-read thermometer. * Volume Test: Without any grounds added, I set Aiden to use 300 milliliters/10.1 ounces of water and brewed into a measuring cup. Then I weighed it and noted any discrepancies. * Use Test*: During testing, I fiddled with, and noted, all the options on the Aiden, made custom brew profiles, edited settings, and cleaned the brewer.
What We LearnedOut of the Box, the Setup Was Pretty QuickOnce you plug the machine in and adjust a few settings, including your elevation (fancy), you’re ready to start brewing. The smartphone app pairs quickly and while it didn’t offer much functionality, Fellow plans to add scheduling and remote control.
Before brewing you have to pick between two plastic baskets depending on how much coffee you’re making: a #2 Melitta cone filter for a single serving up to 15 ounces, or an 8- to 12-cup flat bottom basket filter for batch brewing up to 50 ounces into the carafe. Next, you adjust a switch under the lid, which controls the shower head. Rotate it to the green dot for a single serve and Aiden pushes the water through the three central nozzles. Flip it to three blue dots for batch brewing and all 15 ports are put to work. Aiden alerts you with screen prompts if you have the wrong basket or shower head setting for the amount of coffee you want, as it does if you’re low on water.
It Was as Exacting as Doing a Pour-Over YourselfI made pour-over coffee and coffee with the Aiden, to see if I could detect taste differences.Serious EatsFellow uses the term “precision” in Aiden’s product name and the engineering backs it up (even if the coffee maker is likely trying to achieve accuracy, not precision). The settings menu allows for metric or imperial measurements. Using Aiden’s Guided Brew setting, once you dial in how much coffee you want, the machine crunches the water-to-coffee ratio for you, showing you how much coffee to add, either in grams or tablespoons.
Aiden considers one cup to be five ounces (150 milliliters). When set to metric, the screen displays the size of your drink and the amount of grounds required in milliliters, grams, and cups. In imperial mode, Fellow shows your choice in cups, tablespoons, and ounces. You can adjust Aiden’s variables in increments of 0.5 milliliters, 0.5 ounces, or, when it comes to temperature, 0.5 degrees. While I’m all for metric, when heating water for a pour-over I use Fahrenheit. As of now, Aiden doesn’t offer separate settings for temperature scales so there was a lot of “Alexa, what is 206º Fahrenheit in Celsius?” during testing.
The Aiden Did an Excellent Job Heating and Pumping Water Fellow’s level of detail might sound fussy, but it works. I wanted to see how it stacked up to my pour-over routine. I programmed a custom brew cycle in Aiden, skipping the bloom option, which would be difficult to mimic accurately. For 240 milliliters of coffee, just over eight ounces, Aiden’s brew time is 2:50. But only about 1:18 of that is active brewing—where you hear water pumped into the brew basket—the remainder of the time, you’re waiting for the last drips to fall into the cup. For each brew method I used the same volume of water (I use a scale for pour-over), amount of beans, water temperature, and active brew time, with a 16:1 water-to-coffee ratio. Then I checked the temperature of the results, weighed the coffees, and tasted both.
The results were nearly identical. My pour-over cups averaged about two grams heavier (that’s less than the weight of a penny) than Aiden’s. The temperatures—usually around 170ºF—were very close, with Aiden running a touch hotter. When I tasted the coffees, they were similar, with a pleasing amount of acidity, a balanced flavor with some chocolate notes, and a nice, roasty aroma. The taste was impressive and I’d welcome having that quality with the push of a button or two.
That test proved Aiden uses the correct volume of water to make a single cup of coffee, but I was curious about larger batches. I brewed 300 milliliters of water, or 10.1 ounces, into a basket without any coffee or filter, then weighed the result: 291 grams, a 3% change. Is Aiden as accurate as a human? No. However, I couldn’t detect any flaws in the final coffee when I tasted larger batches.
The Carafe Kept Coffee Pleasingly WarmThe Aiden's carafe keeps coffee pretty hot, but not as hot as other thermal models.Serious EatsUsers usually only notice a carafe when it’s poorly designed. While the Aiden has some plastic elements on the handle and lid, the carafe works well, pours easily, and is a snap to clean. It also keeps the temperature well enough that the second cup from a larger pot will still be nice and warm. In my testing, where I measured the temperature of the brew when it finished brewing and again an hour later, Aiden’s carafe consistently lost about 30 degrees. An hour later, a second cup of coffee was about 139ºF, which is at the higher end of the temperature scale most experts suggest for coffee drinking. That said, it didn't keep coffee as hot as other coffee makers with thermal carafes, like the Ratio Six.
The Aiden’s Customization Was Unparalled Out of the box, the Aiden comes with eight different profiles for light, medium, and dark roasts, along with cold brew and a handful for specific coffees from brands like Onyx and Verve. These all have different programmed water temperatures, ratios, and bloom temperatures and times based on Fellow’s testing. For example, if you pick the light roast option, Aiden heats water to 210.2ºF, with a bloom that pumps that same temperature water over the grounds during the first 45 seconds, using a 17:1 ratio. But if you pick a dark roast, Fellow uses two temperatures, 210ºF to bloom followed by 185ºF to brew the rest of the way, with a shorter bloom duration and a 16:1 ratio.
You can adjust all of these factory presets. But what’s more exciting is the ability to program a recipe. A custom brew lets you adjust water temperatures and ratios, which range from 14:1 to 20:1. Coffee geeks will appreciate the versatility of the bloom section. Here you can turn the feature on or off, adjust its ratio, as part of the overall volume of water, and tell Aiden how long you want the bloom cycle to take. How’s this for specificity: You can set the coffee maker to push out up to 60 bloom pulses into a carafe of coffee, each with a specific temperature.
Most coffee drinkers are never going to need that level of detail. But, practically speaking, the custom feature is ideal if you have a pour-over ratio and technique you love and want to program Aiden to have it do the work for you.
The Guided Brew Feature Was Very HandyYou can brew a single cup of coffee with the Aiden—a helpful feature.Serious EatsThose eight presets I mentioned above all live within Aiden’s Guided Brew menu, offering a nice bit of hand-holding. While a customized brew profile is nice for more experienced coffee drinkers, most folks simply want a good cup of coffee without much effort—that’s what you’re signing up for with a coffee maker, isn’t it? The Guided Brew feature means that with about four clicks of Aiden’s button, you’re making pretty damn good coffee.
Hit Guided Brew, then pick one of the eight roast settings and click. Now spin the wheel to tell Aiden how much coffee you want to make. As you increase the size of the cup, the screen tells you which of the two brew baskets to insert; then click again. Aiden considers everything from 150 milliliters/five ounces/one cup up to 450 milliliters/15 ounces/three cups to be a single serving, which you can brew directly into a cup or mug. Anything over 450 milliliters/three cups, to the maximum of 1,500 milliliters/50 ounces/10 cups, is a batch meant for the carafe. Aiden’s build allows for cups or mugs up to about 6.5 inches tall to take the place of the carafe. After you select the size, Aiden shows you how much ground coffee to add. Add that and the next click starts the brew cycle with a countdown timer.
Because each of the factory-loaded settings includes a bloom cycle, brewing can range from about 3.5 minutes for one cup/150 milliliters to just over 11 minutes for 10 cups/1,500 milliliters. I found Guided Brew to be very intuitive to use, and I even asked my 13-year-old to make a batch of coffee following the on-screen prompts and it went off without much issue. I can’t imagine any parent turning down the luxury of teaching a child how to make great coffee at a moment's notice.
The Instant Brew Feature Was…ConfusingAiden’s Instant Brew feature works like a regular coffee maker: pour in the water, dump in the grounds, hit a button, and the appliance starts working. While Instant Brew was designed as a “one-touch experience,” and it works as you’d expect, I don’t know how many folks will find it useful.
This mode leaves you on your own. Push the button, and depending on the brew basket you’ve inserted, Aiden’s going to use up to 15 ounces for a single serve, or the whole 50-ounce water tank for the carafe. If you have the incorrect amount of grounds in the machine—without Aiden showing you how much to add—you might be disappointed. I think those buying the Aiden welcome the guidance of picking a size and knowing how much coffee to add.
Luckily, Fellow builds in a workaround: You can edit the Instant Brew setting so it adopts the software’s attributes for light, medium, or dark roasts. You can also customize Instant Brew to specify a certain volume, following a 16:1 ratio. For example, say each morning you want to make 24 ounces of coffee—even if you have 50 ounces of water in the tank—and you know that volume calls for four tablespoons of grounds that you’ll load in. Then you could press Instant Brew and it will go to work, guaranteeing a consistent cup.
The VerdictThe Aiden produces an outstanding cup of coffee. While the menus and submenus might sound intimidating, the programming is versatile enough to indulge a coffee snob’s whims while also being simple enough to use with bleary eyes first thing in the morning. For those who simply want great coffee to start the day, it should only take a couple of hours to dial in a recipe you like. Then you can start the routine of auto-loading in a set amount of grounds. But for those who love pour-over but want an easier solution, this is a great option—and it can also indulge your interest in adjusting bloom times.
While it wasn’t a huge focus of the testing, Aiden also makes tasty cold brew. That setting calls for a stiff, 14:1 ratio of coffee to water, with a bloom of 210ºF water before spending the next 90 minutes brewing with room temperature water.
The ProsIt’s easy to set a recipe and make pour-over-quality coffee with the push of a button. Since my initial testing, I’ve programmed my preferred pour-over recipe into Aiden (a 15:1 ratio, with a 30-second bloom, and brewed at 206ºF), and put my Fellow kettle in a cabinet. Really now all I need to remember is to add the correct amount of coffee grounds, and with the push of a button, I’m a couple of hands-off minutes away from a great cup of coffee. On the other hand, if you’re into coffee subscriptions that vary in roast styles, the Aiden is flexible enough for you to tweak things cup to cup.
The ConsWhile the footprint is a tidy 9 x 9 x 12 inches with the brew basket lid open, Aiden is 18.5 inches tall, which might not fit under your cabinets. And in instances where it does fit, dealing with pouring in the grounds might be tricky. My biggest pet peeve with Aiden’s design is the water tank. The lid has two hinges that feel like they might break easily, unlike the brew basket’s cover, which securely closes with magnets to compress the silicone gasket around the shower head that prevents steam from escaping and ruining the underside of any cabinets above. The water tank’s opening is a narrow slot, and most of the real estate goes to the molded handle, leaving only a pair of 2 x 0.75-inch openings on each end to pour in water. It’s easy to make a mess filling it up.
While I expect the app’s utility to increase, right now it doesn’t offer much. To do simple things, like name a custom brew, you have to scroll along and click individual letters. The screen, while bright and easy to read, is just under 1.5 inches wide and kind of small.
Key Specs Materials: Food-grade, BPA-free plastic, stainless steel, and silicone * Connectivity: Through WiFi via an app * Cord length: About 37.5 inches * Size: 9 x 9 x 12 inches (closed), 18.5 inches tall when open * Weight: 9 pounds, 14 ounces with carafe * Water capacity: 1.5 liters/50.7 ounces * Single-serve sizes: From 5 ounces with 10.7 grams/2 tablespoons of grounds to 15 ounces with 32.1 grams/6.5 tablespoons of grounds * Batch-brew sizes: From 16 ounces with 34.2 grams/7 tablespoons of grounds to 50 ounces with 82.5 grams/16.5 tablespoons of grounds * Warranty:* A 2-year standard warranty, or a 3-year warranty with registration
Serious EatsFAQs Does the Fellow Aiden grind coffee?No, the Aiden does not come with a grinder. You’ll need to buy one or stick with high-quality, freshly ground coffee.
Does the Fellow Aiden have a built-in scale?No, the Aiden does not come with a scale. While it will provide the amount of coffee needed in grams, it also expresses it in tablespoons. A scale is not necessary, but it would be helpful.
Why We’re the Experts* Sal Vaglica was the equipment editor for Serious Eats. He now writes for the site. * For this review, he made cup after cup—and carafe after carafe—of mostly medium-roasted coffee.
Editor’s note: We received a press sample of the Fellow Aiden, but all of our opinions are our own.
Serious EatsWe’ve tested our fair share of air fryers (35 of them, to be exact) and have churned through enough wings to feed a small stadium. In all our years, this is the first time we’ve tested an air fryer with a glass basket as opposed to a nonstick-coated metal basket. Personally, while I’ve used plenty of air fryers, I’ve never owned one myself since most air fryers take up too much counter space to justify having one. That’s why I was especially interested to hear that the new Ninja Crispi claims to offer a compact, portable air frying experience that doesn’t skimp on the crisp factor. I put it to the test by air frying frozen fries, vegan “chicken” wings, and reheating leftovers. Throughout these tests, I assessed how easy it was to operate and clean, plus how well it actually air fried foods.
The TakeawaysThe Ninja Crispi Excels at CrispingSerious EatsThe powerful 1500-watt machine has functions to bake, air fry, re-crisp, and max crisp. During my tests, I air fried several batches of frozen fries and made air-fried vegan chicken wings. The fries came out golden brown and crunchy, while the wings were crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. It’s also easy to track browning through the glass in order to pause the machine or add more time as needed.
It’s Convenient and Easy to UseSerious EatsThe Crispi comes with two glass bases: a smaller 6-cup container that holds enough food for one person and a larger 4-quart container that can feed up to six people. The glass baskets also come with leakproof lids to double as storage containers. During my tests, it was convenient to simply snap a lid onto the glass basket and pop it into the fridge instead of grabbing a new container. The re-crisp function is especially useful for heating up leftovers. As someone who doesn’t own a microwave, I appreciated that the Crispi is able to quickly reheat noodles or stir-fries and can even do it better than a microwave could in some cases, especially with pizza.
Assembling the air fryer for use is also easy. The PowerPod (as Ninja refers to it) rests on top of the glass containers and has clearly marked buttons to set each function and adjust timing. I especially liked the included crisper plates that promote airflow around the foods while they’re cooking. When not in use, I keep the Crispi in a cupboard, which takes up minimal space thanks to the nesting glass baskets.
It’s Easy to CleanSince Ninja states that the bowls are dishwasher-safe, I ran the glass bowls through the dishwasher to see how they would come out. The bowls and lids survived the dishwasher, though it took a while for water to fully evaporate from the tiny gap between the glass and the affixed feet on the containers.
Would I Buy It?Ninja Crispi Air FryerAmazonThe Ninja Crispi isn’t the largest capacity air fryer out there, so if you’re looking to air fry for a large crowd, this may not be the best option for you. However, if you’re someone with a smaller kitchen who wants to have an easy, straightforward way to air fry your favorite comfort foods, the Crispi is a worthy option. Its powerful functions excel at producing crispy-crunchy fries and wings, and it’s easy enough to use with your eyes closed (though I wouldn’t recommend that).
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a writer for Serious Eats. * An has been testing kitchen equipment for Serious Eats for two years. * Since testing the Ninja Crispi, she’s used it on a weekly basis for the past few months.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyIt was a chaotic Thursday night: My 18-month old was on all fours trying to drink water out of our cat’s bowl, the cat was yowling in protest, and, having forgotten it was my night to cook dinner, I was shoulders-deep in my fridge looking for an easy dinner solution. I spotted some chicken and a sad lemon in desperate need of using, and decided on chicken piccata…only to realize we had no capers or eggs. I was about to suggest cereal for dinner before I remembered that my Birmingham, Alabama-based test kitchen colleague Melissa Gray had recently developed an easy yet luxurious lemon-pepper chicken recipe for Serious Eats—which I had all the ingredients for.
Tender, moist, and packed with a citrusy punch, Gray’s lemon-pepper chicken tastes like a cross between roast chicken and chicken piccata. Not only is it delicious, but it also requires just one pan and comes together in under an hour, making it an ideal weeknight dinner. For all the obvious reasons, it has since become one of my family’s favorite weeknight meals. Here’s how to make it.
How to Make Tender, Moist Lemon-Pepper ChickenChar your lemons. While many sweet and savory recipes incorporate raw lemon zest, juice, or slices, Gray takes an easy but clever approach here: She halves a lemon, then cooks it cut side down in the skillet until it’s nicely browned, which gives the dish a bright, caramelized note.
Dredge your chicken in flour. Coating the chicken breasts in an even layer of flour helps absorb any excess moisture and gives the poultry a dry exterior that browns evenly, and is a trick our editorial director Daniel uses in his fish piccata recipe.
Sear, bake, and rest your chicken. To keep the chicken nice and juicy while also crisping up the skin, sear it skin side-down in a skillet. Bake it until it just reaches 160ºF (71ºC) on an instant-read thermometer, then let it rest. As the chicken rests, its temperature will continue to rise to 165ºF. This resting also allows the chicken’s juices to evenly distribute itself throughout the meat, resulting in moist, tender chicken.
For the creamiest sauce, reduce your wine and add your butter gradually. After you remove the chicken, you’ll deglaze the pan with white wine, then reduce it by half. This cooks off the alcohol, preventing the wine from imparting the harsh flavor of raw wine to the sauce, and also concentrates the wine’s sugars, which gives the sauce body. Once the wine has reduced, it’s key to incorporate the butter slowly while whisking constantly to ensure that the sauce emulsifies properly. As former Serious Eats editor Sohla has written previously, the “combination of stirring, swirling the pan, and vigorous bubbling will emulsify the butter into the sauce, breaking it up into tiny droplets that are then distributed throughout the liquid.”
As fancy as that all sounds, this is a meal that comes together in less than an hour—but tastes like you’ve been cooking all day long. Simply add some rice, couscous, or potatoes and a simple vegetable side like steamed or roasted broccoli and you're all set with a chaos-free evening—at least in the dinner department.
Adjust oven rack to middle position, and preheat to 400°F (205ºC). Using a microplane grater, zest lemon to yield 2 teaspoons zest; set aside. Halve lemon crosswise; set aside separately from zest.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyIn a wide, shallow bowl, spread flour in an even layer. Sprinkle chicken evenly with 2 1/2 teaspoons salt and 3/4 teaspoon black pepper. Working with one chicken breast at a time, dredge chicken in flour, shaking off excess. Transfer to a plate, and repeat with remaining chicken breasts; set aside.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyIn a 12-inch enameled cast iron or stainless steel skillet, heat oil over medium heat until just shimmering. Add reserved lemon halves, cut sides down, and cook, undisturbed, until edges begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Remove lemon halves from skillet; set aside. Increase heat to medium-high; add chicken to skillet, skin sides down, and cook, rotating pan as needed, until skin is golden brown and crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Using tongs, carefully flip chicken breasts, skin sides up, and return lemon halves to skillet, cut sides down. Remove from heat.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyPlace skillet in oven and bake until a thermometer inserted into thickest part of chicken registers 160°F (71ºC) on an instant-read thermometer, 15 to 18 minutes. Let rest 5 minutes; temperature will continue to rise to 165°F (74ºC). Transfer chicken breasts to a platter; loosely tent with foil to keep warm, and let rest while making sauce. Juice caramelized lemon halves to yield 2 tablespoons juice; set juice aside. Do not wipe skillet clean.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyFor the Sauce: While chicken is resting, return skillet to medium-high. Add remaining 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper to drippings in skillet; cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add wine and cook, stirring constantly, until reduced by half, about 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyAdd butter; cook, whisking constantly, until butter is melted, about 1 minute. Lower heat to medium; cook, whisking constantly, until a creamy, emulsified sauce is formed, about 1 minute. (When ready, it should coat the back of a spoon and a finger dragged through it should leave a trail.) Whisk in reserved lemon juice and thyme. Drizzle sauce over chicken, and garnish with additional freshly ground black pepper, thyme, and reserved lemon zest.
Serious Eats / Fred HardySpecial EquipmentMicroplane grater, 12-inch enameled cast iron or stainless steel skillet, instant-read thermometer, whisk
Make-Ahead and StorageThe chicken and sauce is best served the day of, but leftovers can be safely stored for up to 4 days in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineLike the Battenberg cake and the Victoria sponge, lemon drizzle is one of the most iconic British cakes. The loaf has a bold citrus flavor, a moist, buttery crumb, and a signature drizzle of lemon juice and sugar that crystallizes into a satisfyingly crunchy topping. It's a staple for British home bakers and is often sold at bakeries and coffee shops in the UK. It’s so popular that one of Britain’s most well-known bakers, chef and Great British Bake Off judge Paul Hollywood, called it his “favorite cake of all time” in his 2022 cookbook BAKE. “The perfect lemon drizzle has a light and airy sponge and a sharp, zesty crunchy topping,” he wrote. “It’s a total classic."
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineTraditionally, lemon drizzle cake is baked in a loaf pan. There are, however, many variations, and it isn’t uncommon to see round or square cakes in the UK. It’s a simple dessert that requires little more than flour, eggs, butter, sugar, and, of course, lemons. Plus, the batter comes together in one bowl and requires only about 10 minutes of prep time—I think the hardest part may be waiting for the cake to cool and develop its crackly topping. I may not be Paul Hollywood, but my tips below will help you bake a handshake-worthy lemon drizzle cake.
How to Make a Classic Lemon Drizzle CakeSoften the lemons—and use a juicer if you have one. The cake and drizzle require a good amount—more than a quarter cup—of lemon juice. To make the lemons easier to juice, I roll them against a hard surface, which softens the rinds and the fruit’s membranes, making light work of all the juicing required. (If you have a lemon juicer, this is a good time to use it.)
Use room temperature ingredients. To aerate the cake, I beat butter and sugar together until it’s pale and fluffy, a process that helps create pockets of air in the batter. To do this well, it’s key to use room temperature butter softened to about 60º to 65ºF (16º to 18ºC). As former Serious Eats editor Stella wrote in her vanilla butter cake recipe and primer on creaming butter and sugar, this is the temperature at which butter is most pliable, which guarantees that your cake will have an even crumb. This, however, also requires that your eggs be at room temperature. “If the eggs are much colder, they’ll cause the butter to seize, curdling the batter,” Stella notes. “This breaks the emulsion, producing a cake with an uneven crumb (think weird pockets and tunnels, streaks of gumminess, or low volume overall.)”
Poke holes in your cake. Pricking the top of the baked cake with a toothpick, wooden skewer, or cake tester helps the drizzle sink deeper into the cake, ensuring that each bite is moist and bursting with citrus flavor.
Serious Eats / Maureen Celestine
Drizzle generously, then let the cake sit. To make the drizzle, you simply have to whisk together granulated sugar and fresh lemon juice. You don’t want the sugar to dissolve here: It should look thick, wet, and grainy. As the mixture soaks into the cake and cools on top of it, the sugar granules will crystallize into a sweet, crackly coating. Granulated sugar is the best type to use here; though the cake will still be delicious with a finer sugar like caster or superfine, those sugars won’t have large enough granules to form the crunchy topping.
Serious Eats / Maureen Celestine
I recommend making the drizzle in a liquid measuring cup, as that will make it easier to pour over the cake. If the sugar starts to sink to the bottom of the cup, just stir to reincorporate it into the juice, and be sure to use a flexible spatula to scrape out every last bit onto the cake. Let the cake sit for at least three hours—this will give the drizzle more time to settle and soak into the loaf, and guarantees that each bite is moist, bursting with tangy lemon flavor, and ready to earn you star baker accolades.
For the Cake: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Using nonstick spray, generously grease a 9- by 5-inch loaf pan. Line pan with parchment cross-wise, allowing a 1-inch overhang on the longer sides of the pan.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineIn a medium bowl, sift together flour and salt. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineIn the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, beat butter and sugar on medium-high speed until pale and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the eggs, lemon juice, lemon zest, and vanilla paste and mix until fully combined, about 45 seconds. (Mixture will look slightly separated.) Add the dry ingredients and mix, pausing to scrape down the sides of the bowl with a flexible rubber spatula as needed, until just combined and no dry spots remain, about 30 seconds. Do not overmix. Using a flexible rubber spatula, spread batter into prepared pan. (Alternatively, the batter can be prepared in a large mixing bowl using an electric hand mixer.)
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineBake until top of loaf is golden brown and a cake tester or skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean, 55 to 60 minutes. (Check the cake at the 40 minute mark; if the cake is becoming too dark, tent it with foil and continue to bake.) Remove cake from oven. Using a cake tester or skewer, prick the top of the cake about 15 to 20 times; set aside.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineFor the Drizzle: In a spouted measuring cup, whisk sugar and lemon juice until a cloudy syrup forms. (The sugar should not be dissolved.) Drizzle over still-hot cake, distributing mixture evenly across entire surface to adequately soak the loaf. Using a flexible rubber spatula, scrape any remaining granulated sugar from the cup and onto the cake, taking care to spread it evenly across the loaf.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineSet pan on a wire rack and allow cake to cool completely, until bottom of pan is cool to the touch and a white crystallized topping has formed on top of the cake, about 3 hours. Lift parchment to remove cake from pan. Slice with serrated knife and serve at room temperature.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineSpecial Equipment9- by 5-inch loaf pan, stand mixer or hand mixer, cake tester or skewer, spouted measuring cup, serrated knife
NotesVanilla paste will give the cake a more pronounced vanilla flavor, but good-quality vanilla extract can also be used.
Though you can substitute granulated sugar with finer sugar like caster or superfine sugar in the drizzle, your cake will not develop the crackly coating of sugar.
To make your own self-rising flour: In a large bowl, whisk 2 cups all-purpose flour with 3 teaspoons baking powder and 1 1/2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt. (For table salt, use half as much by volume.)
I recommend slicing the cake with a serrated knife, as its jagged edges guarantee clean, even slices. Though you can slice the loaf with a chef’s knife, it may result in ragged slices or cause the delicate cake to crumble.
Make-Ahead and StorageOnce cooled, the leftover cake can be loosely wrapped in foil and stored at room temperature for up to 3 days. (Avoid storing the cake in an airtight container, as the trapped moisture will cause the drizzle to lose its crunch.) Do not refrigerate.
Cake can be tightly wrapped in foil or plastic wrap and frozen for up to 3 months. Thaw overnight at room temperature.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerBe it French onion soup or shortbread cookies, our recipes go through many rounds of testing before they get to your hands. Every day, Serious Eats editors are in the test kitchen measuring, chopping, and whisking, and they couldn’t get it done without 11 essential tools. From spider strainers to bench scrapers, these tools streamline kitchen workflows as they help perfect hundreds of recipes every month.
Editor-Loved Test Kitchen Essentials, at a Glance Agile Tongs: OXO Good Grips 12-Inch Stainless Steel Locking Tongs * A Versatile Spider Strainer: Hiware Solid Stainless Steel Spider Strainer Skimmer * A Large-Capacity Scale: OXO Good Grips 11-Pound Stainless Steel Scale * An Accurate Kitchen Scale: Escali Primo Digital Food Scale * The Best Japanese Chef’s Knife: Misono UX10 Chef's Knife * A Multitasking Bench Scraper: OXO Good Grips Bench Scraper * The Best Sponges: O-Cedar Scrunge Non-Scratch Scrub Sponges, 6-Pack * A Design-Forward Salt Cellar: Zero Japan Salt Box * Our Favorite Round Measuring Spoons: Le Creuset Stainless Steel Measuring Spoons * A Durable Smock Apron: Hedley & Bennett Smock Apron * Super Absorbent Kitchen Towels:* Lane Kitchen Cotton Dish Towels
OXO Good Grips 12-Inch Stainless Steel Locking TongsAmazonMetal kitchen tongs are my must-have. They don't have to be fancy but they must grip tightly. I use them for turning meats, vegetables, and tofu slabs during roasting, or for fishing hot foods out of the broiler. I've also been known to use my tongs to grab things off of high shelves when I don't feel like getting the step stool out. I got mine at a restaurant supply store in New York's Chinatown, but they look just like this OXO pair. — Megan O. Steintrager, associate editorial director
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerHiware Solid Stainless Steel Spider Strainer SkimmerAmazonA spider skimmer is an indispensable kitchen tool. It's great for transferring blanched vegetables into an ice bath or fishing fried food out of hot oil. But what I use mine for the most is transferring pasta straight from the pot of water into the sauce to finish cooking. — Megan
Serious Eats / Grace KellyOXO Good Grips 11-Pound Stainless Steel ScaleAmazonI'll be honest: I wouldn't be able to test kitchen gear without a scale. Just today, I used mine to weigh potatoes for a potato masher test. I also weigh nearly every item I test, since how hefty something is can make a difference. This scale from OXO is my go-to: It can handle weights up to 11 pounds and features a pull-out screen in case there's a big bowl blocking the view. — Grace Kelly, editor
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerEscali Primo Digital Food ScaleAmazonMy Escali digital scale is my ride or die. It's lightweight, accurate, and can weigh in ounces, pounds, and grams. — Genevieve Yam, culinary editor
Misono UX10 Chef's KnifeAmazonJust kidding! My Misono chef’s knife is my real-or-die. It has an asymmetrical carbon steel blade that stays sharp and is just an all-around great knife. — Genevieve
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonOXO Good Grips Bench ScraperAmazonNo matter what recipe I'm developing, I will always have a scale, a good cutting board, and a bench knife for transferring ingredients off the cutting board easily. This OXO one that I use is one of our tested favorites. Mixing bowls, good knives, Y-peelers, thermometers (probe and instant-read), and kitchen timers are also often essential. — Daniel Gritzer, editorial director
Serious Eats / Eric KingO-Cedar Scrunge Non-Scratch Scrub Sponges, 6-PackAmazonI'm writing a cookbook(!), and if there's one thing I can tell you about recipe testing, it's that you have to clean a lot of dishes. Even with a dishwasher, I'm sudsing up in the sink at the end of every day. These dishwashing sponges are the absolute best—they're scrubby but nonabrasive, and they're cheap! — Rochelle Bilow, editor
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowZero Japan Salt BoxAmazonProper seasoning is key to a delicious recipe, so I make sure my salt is always close at hand. (In truth, I also travel with a tin of emergency flaky salt.) But for daily cooking, I use a salt cellar. This one has a large capacity and a hinged lid to keep it free from mysterious kitchen debris. — Rochelle
Serious Eats / Grace KellyLe Creuset Stainless Steel Measuring Spoons, Set of 5AmazonWhenever I'm making a recipe, I try to be as accurate as possible. While this can mean breaking out the kitchen scale, I also turn to a good set of measuring spoons. Believe it or not, not all measuring spoons measure the same. My favorites from Le Creuset are super accurate and I like that the set comes with 1/8 of a teaspoon. The numbers are stamped, too, so they won't fade over time. — Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, associate editorial director
Serious Eats / Eric KingHedley & Bennett Smock ApronAmazonIn the interest of preserving my clothing, I try to wear an apron when I'm in the kitchen. This smock is my favorite. It's easy to slip on and off and never rubs or itches. It's perfect for long stretches in the kitchen. — Riddley
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmLane Kitchen Cotton Dish Towels, 6-PackAmazonIf I’m testing a recipe, there will be plenty of splashing and spillage. Thankfully, my trusty kitchen towels come to the rescue every time to sop up messes of all shapes and sizes. While our favorite dish towels are out of stock, these similar ones are only $10 for a pack of six. The cotton material and fine weave make them super absorbent and durable. — An Uong, writer
Serious Eats / Henry WortockWhy We’re the Experts* An Uong is a writer for Serious Eats. * An has been testing kitchen gear for Serious Eats for two years. * She’s also a recipe developer who’s working on a recipe series of weeknight Vietnamese meals.
I’m a chicken wing enthusiast. I’ll get them every time I see them on a menu. I’m talking gochujang wings at Korean barbecue; fish sauce–coated wings while eating pho; and buffalo wings at pizza joints. But in all my years of gnawing on drumettes, I’ve never come across a Mexican take on wings. So I decided to apply my years of studying chicken wings at the dining table and my love of Mexican cuisine to create this spicy, aromatic, crunchy Mexican-inspired chicken wing recipe.
These wings are hot—the kind of fried chicken wing that gets its chile-pepper talons out and claws your mouth and throat on the way down. A few techniques are used to achieve this level of heat. First, the raw wings are marinated in the brine from jarred pickled serranos (or jalapeño brine, if you prefer). The brine seasons and tenderizes the meat while infusing them with their first layer of heat.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoThe second layer of heat—and a whole lot of flavor—is achieved by tossing the freshly fried chicken with a chile-infused oil right before serving. The oil is blended with three different varieties of dried chile, along with cumin, oregano, and chicken bouillon powder. The addition of the warm spices and umami-boosting bouillon powder creates a potent sauce with an aroma similar to Mexican sopes.
The key to this chile sauce’s nuanced heat is to start with whole chiles and blend them in a spice grinder (or mortar and pestle) yourself, rather than relying on a packaged ground chile powder. This allows you to finely tune the heat level and flavor profile of the spice mix. I use chiles de árbol for nuttiness, puya (or guajillo) for fruitiness, and dried habaneros for heat. Dried habaneros aren’t always readily available, and if you can’t find them, or prefer your wings less spicy, it’s OK to omit them, or substitute with an equal number chiltepin chiles or just bump up the amount of chiles de árbol to a total of 20.
While fried wing recipes rarely call for wet brining and only sometimes call for dredging in flour, I find that the extra effort is worth it to create a flavorful wing with an extra crunchy layer. The brining and dredging technique I use here is inspired by Nashville hot chicken, in which the chicken is dredged in buttermilk and a flour mixture, then fried and tossed in chile oil.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoWhile Nashville hot chicken—like many Southern-style fried chicken recipes—uses flour and cornstarch to create a hearty, crispy exterior, here I decided to swap the cornstarch for another corn-based ingredient, Mexican masa harina. The combination of all-purpose flour and masa harina makes for a light, crunchy breading, while the fried masa harina adds a savory depth that’s reminiscent of tostadas or sopes.
These wings are perfect for eating on a plate with rice and beans or setting out as an appetizer for a party—just make sure to grab a sticky note and label them with a heat warning.
Working in batches, wearing gloves, crumble árbol, puya, and habanero chiles with your fingertips into a spice grinder so chiles fit into grinder. Add chicken bouillon powder, garlic powder, onion powder, cumin seeds, coriander seeds, dried oregano, and sugar. Grind until chiles are finely ground. (Alternatively a mortar and pestle may be used to grind the mixture.) Set aside in a small heatproof bowl.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoIn a zip-top bag, combine chicken wings and pickled chile brine. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 8 hours.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSet a wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet; set aside. In a large bowl, whisk flour and masa harina to combine. In a medium bowl, add buttermilk. Remove wings from pickle brine, shake excess liquid back into the bag, transfer wings to buttermilk, and toss to coat.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoWorking with 1 wing at a time, transfer to flour mixture, turning to thoroughly coat in flour and pressing to adhere, then shake off excess flour mixture and transfer dredged wings to prepared wire rack. Let wings rest on wire rack at room temperature for at least 15 or up to 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoWhen ready to fry, set a separate wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet and line with paper towels. Add oil to large Dutch oven or stock pot. Heat over medium-high heat until oil reaches 150℉ (65℃), then carefully transfer 3/4 cup of hot frying oil to spice mix blend in bowl. Whisk to combine; set aside.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoContinue to heat oil until it reaches 350℉ (175℃). Fry 1/3 of the wings, adjusting temperature as needed to maintain oil around 350℉ (175℃), until chicken is crispy, deep golden brown, and registers 175℉ (80°C) on an instant-read thermometer, 6 to 9 minutes. Using a spider skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer to prepared rack. Repeat with the remaining 2 batches of wings, keeping cooked chicken warm in a 200℉ (95°C) oven while frying remaining wings.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoAdd fried wings to a large bowl. Whisk chili oil to recombine and pour over the wings. Gently toss until wings are thoroughly coated. Serve.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSpecial EquipmentDigital instant-read thermometer or candy/frying thermometer, large Dutch oven or stock pot, spice grinder or mortar and pestle, spider or large slotted spoon for removing wings from hot oil
NotesDried habaneros are available at many Latin grocery markets. If unavailable, you may substitute with an equal number chiltepin chiles or just bump up the amount of chiles de árbol to a total of 20. Or prefer your wings less spicy, it’s OK to just omit them.
The unused pickled serranos or jalapeños can be reserved in an airtight container in the fridge to use for sandwiches or tacos.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe wings can be brined for up to 8 hours ahead of frying them.
The fried wings are best eaten immediately and do not store well, but leftovers can be safely stored for up to 3 days in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI’m a fan of freshly baked granola, but taking the time to mix and bake it from scratch at home? Not so much. Most traditional recipes for a jumbo batch of baked granola require more than an hour to make, and at least 20 minutes of scrubbing bowls, measuring cups, countertops, and a cookie sheet. While this often results in delicious granola, it’s time-consuming, labor-intensive, and I’m left with a huge batch that’s likely to turn stale before I even finish it. I could turn to the store-bought stuff, but it’s often overpriced and underwhelming.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMy solution is this easy, crispy microwave granola, which takes just five minutes to make and comes together in a single bowl. Even on the busiest of mornings, when I’m scrambling to get ready for work, I can whip up a small batch without worrying about preheating the oven and creating a bunch of dishes. It’s great for jazzing up a bowl of yogurt or munching by the handful scooped straight from the bag on a hike.
This granola is lightly sweetened with maple syrup, well seasoned, and hearty: The crunchy clusters of oats are studded with a kaleidoscope of dried fruit, crunchy nuts, and/or toasty seeds. Vanilla provides a sweet, floral note, while an optional pinch of cinnamon gives the granola a spiced warmth. Here’s how to make your own.
How to Make Perfect Granola in Five MinutesSkip the oven. Preparing granola in a microwave may seem unusual, but the appliance is a powerful little box that’s especially handy when you’re short on time (or, let’s be honest, motivation) or want to make a small batch of granola.
As Serious Eats contributor Summer Rylander wrote in her article on how microwaves work, the appliances operate by firing electromagnetic radiation at your food. These waves effectively target the food's internal water molecules, agitating them at a rate that produces enough friction to generate heat and evaporate water.
The problem is that the waves can’t penetrate much deeper than about an inch into food, and therefore struggle to cook large pieces of food evenly. But the microwave is actually ideal for zapping smaller pieces of food like oats: Oats are thin enough that a microwave's heat penetrates all the way through each piece in a short time.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSo, while a microwave may not be the preferred tool for cooking, say, a centerpiece-worthy steak or an entire apple pie, it’s a useful tool for toasting small batches of granola.
Stir frequently. As tempting as it is, don’t walk away. There’s a reason most oven-baked granola recipes call for baking at a low temperature for a longer period of time—often up to an hour—and stirring every now and then. The gentle heat toasts the oat and nut mixture evenly, preventing it from scorching.
In the microwave, however, food cooks through at a much faster rate, which can increase the risk of your granola toasting unevenly or burning. To avoid this, it’s crucial to stir the granola every 30 seconds or so during its very short cooking time, which will ensure even heat distribution for uniform crisping.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPress the granola into an even layer before cooling. One of the best perks of making granola at home is that you can customize the size of the granola clusters to your liking. To make your granola easier to break up into your preferred size—whether that’s loose crumbles for sprinkling or large clusters for snacking—it's important to stir in the dried fruit of your choice when the granola is piping hot out of the microwave and still pliable. (Raisins, dried cherries, and chopped dried apricots are all great options.) Then, using the back of a large spoon or spatula, gently press the hot pliable granola into an even, tightly packed layer. Once it’s fully cooled, the maple syrup’s sugars firm up, sticking the oats, nuts, and dried fruit together into a granola “bark” that you can break into crunchy clusters of any size.
In a small bowl, use a fork or small whisk to combine maple syrup, melted butter or oil, vanilla extract, salt, and cinnamon, if using. Add oats and nuts and toss to evenly coat. Transfer to a microwave-safe small plate and, using a spatula or back of a soup spoon, gently press mixture into a flat, even layer. Microwave on high power, stirring every 30 seconds, until oats are golden and fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWorking quickly, in a medium bowl, stir dried fruit into the hot granola. (The granola should still be hot and pliable.) Transfer back to plate, then gently press into an even thin layer, and let cool completely, about 5 minutes. Break cooled granola into pieces of desired size. Serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentMicrowave-safe plate, spatula or soup spoon
Make-Ahead and StorageLeftover granola can be stored at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhen I was a kid there was nothing quite like an ice-cold blue raspberry convenience store Slurpee to get me through the day. (It’s tough being a five-year-old.) That blue, saccharine slushie was almost creamy, with a fizzy tang from the neon syrup mixed in. It was a huge treat since my parents were staunchly anti-junk food, save for the occasional box of mac and cheese.
I still love a good slushie, and while blue raspberry will always hold a place in my heart, I’ve also developed a liking for more adult frozen treats: icy margaritas, frosé, or a luscious, creamy piña colada. While these are usually reserved for restaurant orders, the Ninja Slushi has been making waves online for its ability to whip up tasty frozen treats at home. So, in the spirit of my five-year-old self, I gave it a try, using it to make frozen juice, a slushy, a frappé, and a cocktail to see if it was any good.
The TestsI used almost all of the functions on the Ninja Slushi to test it out.Serious Eats / Grace Kelly Frozen Juice Test: I used the Frozen Juice function to turn orange juice into an icy mixture, noting how easy it was to fill and dispense from the machine. I also evaluated the final texture and taste, and if the machine was easy to clean. * Slushie Test: I made an apple cider slushie using the Slushie function. I noted how long it took to freeze, the resulting texture, and if the machine was easy to use and clean. * Frozen Cocktail Test: I followed a Ninja recipe for a frozen Painkiller. I wanted to see how the Ninja Slushi performed when making an alcoholic beverage since alcohol can inhibit freezing. * Frappé Test:* I followed a Ninja recipe for a pumpkin spice frappé to see how the machine handled a dairy-based drink.
What We Learned It Was Easy to Use, and the Results Were Surprisingly Good The results, including this coffee frappe, were surprisingly good.Serious Eats / Grace KellyI went into testing expecting to have to pore over the manual. But the Slushi proved easy to use. I just poured liquids into the tank, turned the machine on, and then selected the function (slush, spiked slush, frappé, milkshake, or frozen juice) and freeze level (one to 10). The auger inside started spinning, splashing the liquid over a chilled metal cylinder, slowly freezing it into cold, crystalline pieces. Once it reached the proper consistency, the machine beeped to let me know it was finished.
While not exactly as smooth and silky as a drink made with an industrial machine, all of the treats I made were frosty and delicious. The cider slushy was frozen into small, even flakes, while the pumpkin spice frappe had a chunky but flaky texture that was easy to sip through a straw. I was most impressed with the Painkiller spiked slush, which had a near-creamy texture with very fine ice flakes. Overall, whether it was juice, a dairy delight, or a frozen cocktail, the Ninja successfully froze everything I put in it.
A quick note about alcoholic drinks: Since alcohol inhibits freezing, a spiked slushie made with the Ninja can only be gently alcoholic. Ninja’s Painkiller recipe called for a quarter cup of rum, and the drink served two to three people, which shakes out to a little over a tablespoon of rum per person (way less than the customary two ounces).
It’s Big—But Quiet There's no bones about it: the Ninja Slushi is big.Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe slushie machines I’ve seen in restaurants and convenience stores are large; they have to be since they hold gallons of slush ready to serve all day. While the Ninja Slushi is far from as big as its industrial cousins, it still takes up a good amount of counter and storage space. It’s 16.3 by 6.5 by 17 inches and has an 88-ounce-capacity tank (about 11 cups), meaning if you have low cabinets, it might not fit. I luckily had cabinets that were tall enough to accommodate it, but storage proved more difficult. I wound up relegating it to the basement after use. So, if you really want the Ninja Slushi, be ready for its large size.
Considering how big it was and how long it ran when chilling liquids, the Slushi was surprisingly quiet. Think dishwasher-running background noise—hardly the screech of the Ninja Creami, another icy treat machine.
It Can Take a Long Time Some functions took longer than others, like the cider slushy which took nearly an hour.Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe manual notes that “creating drinks can take up to 15–60 minutes depending on ingredients, volume, and starting temperature.” I’d err on the side of caution here, especially if you’re planning to serve a group. When I made a cider slushie with the Slush function on level six (the frozen-level range is from one to 10), it took about an hour for the 2.25 cups of juice to become a cohesive slush. While the frozen Painkiller came together in about 45 minutes, the cider slushie kept churning for another 30, which was puzzling. The machine didn’t beep and instead automatically shut off when the mixture became too thick. (I’m not really sure what happened here.) The frappé bucked the longer timeline trend and took a mere 18 minutes to coagulate into a slurpable treat.
In addition to planning your recipe ahead of time, Ninja recommends keeping the machine “upright for at least 2 hours before first use.” This is its natural state, so it should be easy enough to do.
The Verdict The Ninja Slushi machine was easy to use and produced nicely textured frozen drinks. It worked well with a variety of ingredients, even dairy and alcohol. The machine is large, though, so if storage or counter space is an issue, be warned.
ProsThe Ninja Slushi does its namesake task well. It successfully made frosty frozen juice, slurpable slushies, and frothy frappés. I liked how easy it was to use: Just open the latch on the tank, add your ingredients, select your function and freeze level, and the machine will start whirring. The rinse function was helpful, too, making it easier to fully clean the tank of any sugary residue.
Cons It’s not all fun and games with the Ninja Slushi—there are a few pitfalls. First, its large stature makes it difficult to store, and if you have low cabinets, good luck fitting it on your countertop. Second, the dispenser isn’t super efficient—you have to keep the machine running to serve slushies, which plop and glop into a glass rather than stream smoothly. The texture of the frozen drinks, while good, wasn’t quite as silky as ones made by an industrial machine. It was a little messy to clean too. Some liquid collected in the catch basin beneath the tank and spilled everywhere when I removed it. Finally, it’s expensive considering it likely won’t be used daily—unless you’re a slushie fiend.
Key Specs * Dimensions: 16.3 x 6.5 x 17 inches * Weight: 24.25 pounds * Wattage: 200 watts * Tank capacity: 88 fluid ounces (11 cups) * Functions: Slush, spiked slush, frappé, milkshake, and frozen juice * Cleaning: Run rinse cycle to clean nooks and crannies. Then, remove the tank and wash with warm, soapy water. Rinse thoroughly and allow to air dry.
Why We’re the Experts* Grace Kelly is an editor at Serious Eats, where she specializes in all things kitchen gear. * She’s been reviewing kitchen equipment for about three years. * She worked in restaurant kitchens and bars and has been a journalist for nearly 10 years. * For this review, Grace tested the Ninja Slushi by indulging her childhood hankering for slushies and testing nearly every function.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhenever my husband and I travel to Scotland to see his family, his grandmother Gaga greets us with a giant box of homemade oatcakes: savory, crumbly crackers made with oats, water, and melted fat, such as shortening, butter, or lard. Though oatcakes don’t look like much—they’re brown pucks of cooked oats—they’re hearty and satisfying, and extremely snackable.
These cracker-like savory cookies, or biscuits in British parlance, are made and sold throughout the UK, where they’re enjoyed on their own or with cheese. They can be square, rectangular, or round, and vary in thickness. Unfortunately for me and my husband, they’re extremely difficult to find in the United States. (I have only had luck at specialty stores and online.) I realized that if I wanted to have oatcakes whenever I wanted, I’d have to make them myself.
Luckily, Gaga—the same genius behind my one-bowl shortbread recipe—happily shared her oatcake recipe with me. Making oatcakes is a relatively simple process that requires just stirring together oats, baking soda, salt, melted fat, and hot water, then rolling, cutting, and cooking them on a griddle or skillet. The kind of oats and the fat you use, as well as the cooking method, however, can drastically impact the biscuit’s texture. With some testing and tweaking to Gaga’s recipe, I’ve developed a foolproof method for preparing crisp, buttery oatcakes that taste just like they were made by your very own Scottish grandmother.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezHow to Make the Very Best Scottish OatcakesUse quick-cooking oats. Traditionally, oatcakes are made with Scottish oatmeal, which are stoneground and finer than rolled oats and steel-cut oats. Scottish oats aren’t as readily available in American grocery stores, so I opted for quick-cooking oats. Like Scottish oats, they are finer in texture. Because quick-cooking oats are made to cook more quickly, they absorb liquid more readily than rolled oats or steel-cut oats when combined with hot water, making the dough more cohesive and easier to work with. If you do have Scottish-style oats on hand, you can definitely use those instead of quick-cooking oats, but steer clear of rolled oats or steel-cut oats, as using those will result in a dough that’s difficult (if not impossible!) to work with.
Reach for clarified butter or ghee. In my testing, lard, bacon fat, shortening, and vegetable oil produced the crispiest oatcakes—but the most delicious ones were made with butter. Unlike animal fat, shortening, and oil, butter is not 100% fat. While fat percentage varies among butters, American butter typically contains 80% fat, with the remaining amount consisting of water and milk proteins. That water steams as the biscuit bakes, resulting in a slightly softer oatcake. A happy compromise is using clarified butter or ghee: Both are nearly 100% butterfat and give the oatcakes a pleasant crispness while also providing a rich, buttery flavor. For ease, I recommend using store-bought clarified butter or ghee, but you can also make your own.
Roll and chill the oatcakes—then bake them. Traditionally, cooks knead the oatcake dough together on a floured surface, roll it out, then cut it into rounds or triangles. They then transfer the cut oatcakes to a hot griddle to cook, a delicate operation that will likely leave your floor scattered with more uncooked oatcakes than you’d like. To make the oatcakes easier to cut and transfer, I roll the dough between two sheets of parchment, then freeze it until it’s just firm enough to cut. And instead of cooking the oatcakes on a griddle, I bake them on a sheet pan, which cooks them more evenly, requires zero flipping, and fills your home with the warm, buttery smell of savory Scottish biscuits baking.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdjust oven racks to second-from-top and second-from bottom positions. Preheat to 350ºF (175ºC).
In a medium bowl, stir oats, salt, and baking soda to combine. Add melted clarified butter or ghee to oat mixture and, using a flexible spatula, toss to evenly coat oats with fat. Add hot water and stir until mixture begins to thicken, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Let sit until oat mixture has hydrated and is slightly sticky, about 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing a flexible spatula, scrape oat mixture onto a 18- by 13-inch piece of parchment. Top with another 18- by 13-inch piece of parchment so oat mixture is sandwiched between and, using a rolling pin, roll oat mixture to 1/4-inch thickness. Grab both ends of the parchment, set onto a 18- by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet, and freeze until mixture is firm but pliable, about 30 minutes. Line two 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment; set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSet a clean piece of parchment on your kitchen counter. Remove oatcake mixture from freezer. Peel off top layer of parchment, then invert oatcake mixture onto prepared sheet of parchment. Using a 3-inch round cookie cutter, cut out 16 oatcakes. (Scraps can be rerolled, frozen, and punched out into additional oatcakes.) Transfer oatcakes to prepared baking sheets, spacing them about 1 inch apart, and bake until crispy and lightly browned, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool completely before serving or storing.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentWhisk, flexible spatula, parchment paper, two or three 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheets (if you only have two you can reuse the one you freeze on for baking), 3-inch cookie cutter
NotesDo not substitute Scottish or quick-cooking oats with rolled oats or steel-cut oats, as the latter two will produce a crumbly dough that won’t hold together.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe oatcake mixture can be rolled between parchment and frozen for up to 3 days. When ready to bake, let sit at room temperature until firm enough to punch, about 20 minutes.
After cooking and cooling, oatcakes can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.
Serious Eats / Qi AiChicken and rice is a combination that spans cultures and cuisines, and has won hearts across the globe. It's a comforting, flavorful, and often economical pairing which takes two commonly available ingredients and makes them greater than they would have been alone. In fact, chicken and rice are such an amazing duo that they were featured heavily in Starch Madness 2023, where 64 rice dishes competed to see which reigns (starchly) supreme. (Spoiler alert: It was our halal cart-style chicken and rice, featured below!)
Below, we've put together a list of our favorite chicken with rice recipes, suitable for cooking any time of year. Your dinner table has never looked better!
Hainanese Chicken Rice SetSerious Eats / Fred HardyThis poached chicken dish is a Singaporean staple. It consists of moist chicken, aromatic rice, and tender bok choy, finished with chile garlic sauce and kecap manis, a type of Indonesian sweetened soy sauce.
Galinhada Mineira (Brazilian Chicken and Rice From Minas Gerais)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis deeply comforting, one-pot meal consists of chicken and rice and is chock full of peas and carrots with plenty of garlic and onion.
Katsudon (Japanese Chicken or Pork Cutlet and Egg Rice Bowl)Serious Eats / Fred HardyThis Japanese comfort food classic smothers fried cutlets with seasoned dashi and lightly cooked egg. The process for making it is almost identical to that of oyakodon, a similar rice bowl topped with simmered fresh chicken and egg.
Nicaraguan Arroz con PolloSerious Eats / Qi AiThis deeply savory Nicaraguan version of chicken and rice gets studded with smoked sausage, ham, olives, capers, carrots, and peas.
Hashweh (Palestinian Spiced Rice and Meat)Serious Eats / Mai KakishThe word for stuffing in Arabic ishashweh, and that’s what Palestinians call this dish even when it doesn't function as an actual stuffing.
Maqlubeh (Palestinian "Upside Down" Meat, Vegetables, and Rice)Serious Eats / Mai KakishMaqlubeh features layers of meat, fried vegetables, and spiced rice flipped over to reveal a complete and festive meal.
Classic Chicken and Rice SoupTim ChinThe beauty of this comforting classic is all in the details. That's why we roast chicken legs for a robust stock, poach chicken legs for perfectly cooked meat, and cook the rice separately to prevent it from becoming gloopy.
Arroz Caldo (Filipino Chicken and Rice Soup)Melissa HomThis hearty, congee-like chicken soup is topped with eggs and crunchy fried garlic.
Halal Cart-Style Chicken and Rice With White SauceDiana ChistrugaHere, the chicken is marinated with herbs, lemon, and spices; the rice golden; the sauce, as white and creamy as ever. Just like your favorite city halal cart, but better!
Dak Juk (Korean Chicken and Rice Porridge)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThis Korean rice porridge is warm and deeply satisfying. Its generally mild flavor and soft texture make it the kind of comfort food that's ideal for feeding the sick, the elderly, and babies, but it's definitely not limited to those groups—anyone can enjoy a warming bowl of juk at any time.
Serious Eats / Two BitesFor centuries, the world’s culinary traditions have met and evolved in the Midwest. As a magnet for immigrant populations and their hopes and dreams, with more cultural flexibility than the long-settled East Coast and South but a stronger sense of community than the wide-open West, the region is a true melting pot—“the most American part of America,” to borrow a phrase from the Midwest historian James Shortridge.
The Midwest is a place where cooks dare to ask questions like, “What if we served our Greek meat stew over spaghetti and piled cheddar cheese on top?” or “Could we turn Ozark chicken and gravy into a Chinese dish?” or “Who’s to say that Special K wouldn’t make a delicious dessert?”
And that instinct for experimentation can really pay off, like when someone in this heavily Germanic and pork-loving region asked, “What if we put schnitzel on a bun?”
According to heartland legend, that someone was Nick Freienstein of Nick’s Kitchen in Huntington, Indiana, opened in 1908, which claims to be the birthplace of the Midwestern breaded pork tenderloin sandwich. Is it really? I’ll leave that to the academics. Whoever came up with it, it was a good idea, which is why it’s now a staple in Iowa and Indiana, the two states that have the strongest claims to the tradition, and on menus just about everywhere else in the region.
Crisp, tender, and consistently satisfying, the Midwestern breaded pork tenderloin sandwich is a Midwestern cousin to the Southern fried chicken sandwich that’s now a top seller at fast food chains like Chick-fil-A and Popeyes.
It’s also a great visual gag—one that represents heartland bounty and a good value. Not all pork tenderloin sandwiches are huge, but the plate-size versions are iconic.
Serious Eats / Two Bites“The bigness is the wow factor,” says Julia Spalding, an editor at Indianapolis Monthly who’s been eating and writing about tenderloin sandwiches for decades. “There’s some fun in figuring out how you’re going to eat it—fold it over, make a triple decker, eat around the edges, or cut it in half and take half home… The bun is almost like a punchline. It’s kind of funny, just sitting there on top of a giant sandwich.”
The Key Elements for Frying the Pork Tenderloin
The breaded pork tenderloin is a straightforward sandwich. To make it, you pound a piece of pork until it’s only about a quarter- or half-inch thick, brine it (which you should), bread it, fry it, and put it on a bun. There are endless opportunities for experimentation within those simple guidelines.
To start the recipe development process, I created a sort of breaded pork tenderloin matrix, listing out the various possibilities, from choosing the cut of pork to pounding to breading to frying to assembly. Overall, I wanted a sandwich that was juicy, salty, and intensely savory, with a clear contrast between the crisp, crunchy crust and the ridiculously tender meat inside. I’ll walk you through a few of the most important considerations.
The Best Cut of Pork for This SandwichA breaded pork tenderloin sandwich should start with tenderloin, right? Not necessarily. Many of the Midwest’s most iconic restaurant versions, including the purported original at Nick’s and nearly all those plate-size versions, are made from tender loin, not tenderloin.
It’s logical for restaurants serving up hundreds of sandwiches a day to select loin over tenderloin. Pork loin is larger, more affordable, a little bit fattier, and less likely to fall apart when thwacked with a meat mallet. After it’s been thoroughly tenderized, it really isn’t all that different from tenderloin, anyway. It’s more practical in a restaurant setting.
Serious Eats / Two BitesThat said, through several rounds of side-by-sides, a slight difference was evident, and it mattered. For cooking the sandwich at home, the “ridiculously tender” option was tenderloin, without a doubt. While close in texture, pork loin still retains a slight chew even when tenderized. That could be a positive for those who like a more assertive fillet, but it isn’t what I’m going for here. The only texture I want inside the crisp layer of fried breading is tender.
As home cooks, we have more flexibility in our ingredients than restaurants extracting thin margins from hundreds or thousands of sandwiches a week. I don’t fry pork sandwiches at home often, but when I do, I’ll spring for the tenderloin.
Why a Brine Is Critical for the Best Tenderloin SandwichIn my first round of tests, it was immediately obvious that skipping the brine wasn’t an option. When you’ve pounded a pork loin into submission, it cooks quickly—within just a minute or two. Even a tenderized tenderloin can dry out and get tough before you can pull it out of the sizzling oil. A brine adds flavor andhelps the pork stay juicy and tender. I tested a line-up of brining options:
- Buttermilk
- Pickle juice
- Salt-and-sugar
- A combination or buttermilk and pickle juice
- A combination of buttermilk, salt, and sugar
I thought buttermilk might be the answer, but it added a distinctive tang that distracts from the meat-and-potatoes appeal of this simple sandwich, even when diluted. Same for the pickle juice brine. These skinny, pounded-out cutlets absorb flavor rapidly and thoroughly, and I wanted them to taste like pork, not buttermilk or pickles. A salt-and-sugar brine accomplishes that, boosting rather than overwhelming the meaty flavor of the main ingredient.
You might be wondering why I’m using a wet brine here, when Serious Eats has written that dry brining is the best way to brine meat. As that piece acknowledges, there are exceptions.
When you’re dealing with a centerpiece-worthy piece of meat, like a turkey or a beef tenderloin, dry brining saves space. It means you don’t have to contaminate a perfectly good cooler with gallons of raw meat tea. The opposite is true when working with these wafer-thin cuts. You could dedicate a shelf in your fridge to four pounded pieces of pork tenderloin laid out on a wire rack, or you could stuff them into a zipperlock bag and wedge them into a corner.
Many of the benefits of dry brining don’t apply here. We’re browning and crisping the breading, not the meat, so the surface of the tenderloin itself doesn’t need to be dry. Drying out the surface of the meat can be a negative, actually, when you’re pounding it so thinly that it’s almost all surface. The residual brine left on the fillets, even after patting them dry, helps the breading adhere. Flour won’t stick to a piece of tenderloin with the outer texture of beef jerky.
Dialing in the Breading for Maximum CrispinessIn researching popular versions of fried tenderloins, including on the remarkably active Pursuing Pork Tenderloins Facebook page, I came across five main breading options that piqued my interest for testing: saltines, various other crackers (Ritz, Cheez-It, Club, Town House), cereals (corn flakes, Rice Krispies), potato chips, and panko. I went to the supermarket and loaded a cart with boxes of crispy snacks and cereals. Saltine crumbs are the most popular choice, but I wanted to believe that I could find a better alternative—something that added bonus crunch and flavor to the sandwich.
After several rounds of tests, I ended up back at saltines. Once again, I wanted to showcase the flavor of the pork, and saltines gave me the best crunchy but relatively neutral breading, which I could flavor with my own blend of spices.
Serious Eats / Two BitesIf neutral is the goal, why not just dredge in flour? Here’s why: Cracker crumbs are coarser than flour, and their irregular surface traps tiny pockets of air during frying. As the moisture inside the crumbs evaporates, steam pushes outward, expanding those pockets and creating a shattering crunch. Also, because crackers are already baked, they’re lower in free starch content than flour, so they absorb less oil. That means a lighter, less greasy crust. And finally, they’re part of the breaded pork tenderloin tradition! That counts for something.
The Seasoning and Frying Oil
In keeping with my goal of making a sandwich that was simple but intensely craveable, I added what I think of as classic fried chicken sandwich seasoning—black pepper, paprika, a touch of cayenne, and (optional) MSG, for extra mouthwatering appeal. There’s no one way to season a breaded pork tenderloin sandwich, but I think the right approach is to go just a little further than just salt and pepper, adding flavor to a relatively bland cut of meat without distracting from it. (I had a fantastic chorizo-spiced tenderloin not long ago, with a chunky tomato salsa on top. I support having more fun with your spice mix, but this is meant to be a foundational recipe.)
I set up a standard dredging station, seasoned each layer of the dredge for total flavor saturation, and fried in peanut oil at a high temperature, so the crust would brown before the pork inside overcooked. I chose peanut oil for its smoke point of 450°F. If you can’t use peanut oil because of an allergy, look for another oil with an equally high smoke point, such as soybean or sunflower.
Building the SandwichSerious Eats / Two BitesOnce your tenderloin is cooked, assembling it is easy, but if you want to stay true to tradition, you do have to take a side where toppings are concerned. “It’s either lettuce, tomato, and mayo or mustard, pickle, and onion,” Spalding told me. “Those are two different camps.” The cultural divide is real. I’m usually a mustard, pickle, and onion person, but I don’t judge.
Cut pork loin crosswise into 4 evenly sized fillets, about 6 ounces per piece for a 1 1/2-pound tenderloin. (It’s OK if the sizes are slightly different. The differences will be negligible once the meat is pounded.)
Serious Eats / Two BitesWorking with 1 fillet at a time, hold it flat on a cutting board with the palm of your non-dominant hand. Using a sharp chef's, boning, or fillet knife, slice the pork horizontally about 2/3 through cut side, taking care not to cut all the way through; try to do this in as few strokes as possible so the meat is smooth and not sawed. Open butterflied fillet like a book and place flat between 2 sheets of parchment paper or plastic wrap on cutting board. Using a meat mallet, rolling pin, or another blunt heavy tool, pound to even thickness of about 1/4 inch. Repeat with all fillets and transfer to a gallon-size zipper-lock bag.
Serious Eats / Two BitesIn a medium bowl, whisk salt, sugar, and 1 cup room temperature water until salt and sugar are completely dissolved. Pour brine over fillets in bag. Seal the bag, pressing out as much air as possible and ensuring that fillets are submerged, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 4 hours.
Serious Eats / Two BitesOnce pork is brined, in a food processor, pulse saltine crackers until crumbs resemble a coarse flour. (You should end up with about 2 cups of crumbs.) Transfer cracker crumbs to a shallow dish such as a pie plate. Spread all-purpose flour in second shallow dish. In a third shallow dish, use a fork to beat milk with eggs.
Serious Eats / Two BitesIn a small bowl, combine pepper, paprika, cayenne, and MSG, if using. Divide spice blend into 3 roughly equal parts and add to the cracker crumbs, flour, and egg wash, and whisk to combine.
Serious Eats / Two BitesSet a wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet and set aside. Remove each pork piece from brine and pat dry with paper towels. Working with 1 cutlet at a time, dredge cutlets thoroughly in flour, shaking off excess, then coat with egg wash, allowing excess to drip back into dish to ensure very thin coating, and coat evenly with cracker crumbs, pressing on crumbs to adhere. Place breaded cutlets in single layer on prepared wire rack set over baking sheet; refrigerate cutlets on rack for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour to set the crust.
Serious Eats / Two BitesWhen ready to cook, adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat the oven to 150°F (65℃) (or “keep warm,” if yours doesn’t go that low). Set a clean wire rack in a clean rimmed baking sheet; set aside.
In a 12-inch cast iron skillet, add oil and heat over medium-high until oil registers 425°F (220℃). Carefully lay 2 prepared cutlets, without overlapping, into skillet. Cook, adjusting heat as needed to maintain oil temperature around 375°F (190℃), until cutlets are golden brown and register an internal temperature of at least 145°F (62℃), about 2 minutes. Transfer cutlets to the prepared wire rack and hold warm in the oven while you cook the remaining cutlets.
Serious Eats / Two BitesOnce cooked, in a separate large stainless steel or cast iron skillet, melt 1 tablespoon butter over medium-high heat. Once melted, add 2 split buns, cut sides down, and toast until golden and crisp along edges, 3 to 5 minutes. Repeat with remaining buns, adding more butter if needed.
Serious Eats / Two BitesTo assemble the sandwich, place one cutlet on bottom bun and top with either mustard, pickles, and sliced onion, in that order, or lettuce, tomato, and mayonnaise. Repeat with remaining sandwiches. Serve.
Serious Eats / Two BitesSpecial EquipmentMeat mallet, rolling pin, or another blunt heavy tool; gallon-size zipper-lock bag, 12-inch cast iron skillet, Large stainless steel or cast iron skillet
Make Ahead and StorageThe sandwiches are best eaten right away.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikFresh seafood, particularly whole fish, was a staple on our dining table growing up, with my dad taking two buses to Chinatown to handpick the fish himself. And while I love fresh seafood, I don't cook it often in my kitchen. Sure, I'll sometimes buy sashimi-grade fish for poke rice bowls and sushi or whip up a quick pasta or casserole with canned wild Alaskan salmon, but I rarely hit up the fish market for a whole fish or fresh shellfish. This is partly due to laziness, but also the costliness that sometimes comes with seafood.
This year, however, one of my New Year's resolutions is to eat and cook more seafood—starting with these 11 pescatarian recipes. Many are one-pot meals, like our Argentinian fish stew, shrimp risotto, and doejang jjiae, or Korean fermented bean paste stew—perfect for a weeknight dinner. If you're out to impress, we also have recipes for cioppino and lobster fra diavolo. We guarantee you'll be cooking these recipes all season...and beyond!
Real BouillabaisseSerious Eats / Liz ClaymanOur rendition of the Provençal classic bouillabaisse honors the spirit and rustic origins of the poor fisherman's soup, using fish that's readily available where you live—cod, snapper, monkfish, porgy, turbot, or seabream—ideally a mixture of lean, oily, and firm varieties. You can even throw in some shellfish if you want. Serve the seafood piled onto a platter family-style with a tureen of steaming aromatic tomato- and saffron-infused soup on the side, and let each person build their own bowl with rouille and toasted baguette.
Cioppino (San Francisco Seafood Stew)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThis heartier cousin of bouillabaisse, brought to the San Francisco Bay Area by Genoese immigrants, is chock full of shrimp, mussels, clams, squid, fish, and crab—since it's winter, the latter would be the highly prized Dungeness variety in my neck of the woods. A rich seafood stock made with browned aromatics, tomato paste, and a roasted red pepper salsa gives the stew a robust flavor, while sequenced poaching of each type of seafood guarantees perfect results.
Chupín de Pescado (Argentine Fish and Tomato Stew)Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnAlthough this fish and tomato stew is often made in the heat of summer in Argentina when fish is most active and plentiful, it's also the kind of simple, rib-sticking one-pot fare you want to warm you up in the winter. Pieces of meaty, firm-fleshed fish are lightly coated in flour and fried to develop more flavor before they're poached in the slow-simmered aromatic vegetable stew to finish.
Baccalà alla Napoletana (Neapolitan-Style Braised Salt Cod With Tomatoes, Olives, and Capers)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWith winter being the prime season for baccalà, or salted cod, you may think that salt-curing cod at home wouldn't be worth the time and effort when you can just as easily buy it pre-cured. Well, this recipe, which uses home-cured center-cut cod fillets, will change your mind...and blow regular baccalà out of the water. What's more, its perfect texture means you can skip flouring and pan-frying the fish and simply nestle the fillets in a puttanesca-like sauce before finishing in the oven.
Malaysian Fish Head CurrySerious Eats / Michelle YipA pot of spicy Malaysian fish head curry, served family-style with plenty of hot steamed rice, makes a warming and memorable finger-licking feast. Fish head, eggplant, and okra simmered in bright vermillion gravy are gently infused with a homemade blend of curry spices, toasted whole to accentuate its flavors.
Lobster Fra DiavoloSerious Eats / Vicky WasikLobster fra diavolo is typically a showy restaurant dish, sometimes presented with a split lobster tail or lobster head-and-tail garnish—making it a popular menu item on special occasions like New Year's Eve or Valentine's Day. It's not exactly something I'd ever think to make at home...that is until Daniel came up with this recipe which streamlines the process to create a pasta dish that truly shines with lobster flavor. No crustacean shell garnishes are necessary to impress your significant other—or anyone else for that matter.
Risotto ai Gamberi (Shrimp Risotto)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThe key to a great shrimp risotto is to cook the rice in a deeply flavorful shrimp stock, quickly made by simmering shrimp shells with aromatics. Stirring the raw shrimp into the rice just before serving ensures a perfect texture, and loosening the risotto with a splash of stock right before serving ensures that it will set up to the proper consistency when plated.
Seafood-Stuffed ShellsSerious Eats / Vicky WasikReady to change up your stuffed pasta game? These decadent jumbo pasta shells are packed with crabmeat, shrimp, and scallops, blanketed in a creamy sauce, and baked with a buttery breadcrumb topping. One bite and you might just forget about the ricotta and tomato sauce variety.
Doenjang Jjigae (Korean Fermented Bean Paste Stew)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThis comforting stew is a mainstay of Korean cuisine, flavored with doenjang, a fermented soybean paste that gives the broth its signature umami depth and funk. Adding the doenjang after the vegetables and clams simmer in the anchovy stock makes it easier to adjust the flavor to your preferred taste. Serve the stew with bowls of hot rice and kimchi on the side.
Cullen Skink (Scottish Smoked Fish Chowder)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikOn a cold night, a big steaming bowl of this seafood chowder is just the ticket to warm you inside and out. The main ingredient—smoked Scottish haddock, or finnan haddie, as the locals call it—combines savory smokiness with marine elements to give you a flavor profile that's as equally complex and layered as a classic fish chowder made with bacon, making it ideal for pescatarians. You can buy smoked haddock, or try our method of cold-smoking fish at home.
Salmon Head SoupSerious Eats / Qi AiIt may seem like more work (or a labor of love) to use whole fish heads for soup, but they offer a diversity of textures and flavors that you can't get from a whole fish or meaty fillets. Once you've separated the tender morsels of salmon from the carcass, all that's left to do is savor them in a rich, creamy dill-scented soup. Now who wouldn't want that on a chilly winter's night?
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe prospect of dealing with fryer oil has kept me from whipping up fluffy doughnuts on more than one occasion. That’s because discarding oil isn’t just annoying—it can be hazardous if not done properly. Even though it’s liquid at room temperature, oil can cool and solidify if it’s poured down the drain. These trapped globs of fat will clog up your pipes and breed bacteria, and if the oil makes it out of your plumbing system, something even more horrifying happens: fatbergs. (See the havoc one wrecked on the London waste system.)
The New York City Department of Sanitation recommends pouring used oil into a sealable container and tossing it in the trash. This is the method I usually use. Is it hard? No. Is it kind of a pain? Yes. However, what’s a deep-frying fan to do?
FryAway is an oil solidifier that promises to simplify oil disposal. Per the company, one packet transforms liquid oil into solid organic waste that can be thrown in the trash or taken to a recycling center. I put FryAway to the test to find out how well it actually works.
How FryAway Works FryAway is a pale and flaky substance, resembling dried coconut shavings. It comes in pre-portioned packets and each one holds enough to solidify two cups of oil. To use, just sprinkle the flakes into hot oil and stir to dissolve. The mixture will solidify as it cools.
FryAway is somewhat secretive about its formulation and the package only lists one ingredient: plant-based fats. To understand how it works, I have to make some educated guesses.
Known methods for solidifying oil include hydrogenation, freezing, and stearic acid. Because of how FryAway works, it’s safe to rule out freezing right away. Hydrogenation is a fairly complex process, as it requires high heat, pressure, and a catalyst. That leaves stearic acid, which is a naturally occurring saturated fat found in plant and animal sources. The founder of FryAway has said that the product does contain some naturally occurring stearic acid, so I’ll assume that’s at least partially at work.
Stearic acid has a melting point of 156.7ºF—this makes it solid at room temperature and gives it natural hardening properties. It’s often used as a stabilizer in candle and soap making, as the high melting point helps these products maintain their structure when exposed to heat. Most common fryer oils are liquid above 30ºF. When it’s mixed into oil, stearic acid effectively raises the melting point, making it solid at room temperature.
The TestingSerious Eats / Madeline MuzziI started my testing process by making and eating a batch of cider doughnuts. This generated about four cups of used oil laced with bits of burnt flour. I poured two packets of FryAway into the oil while it was still hot (the temperature was about 250ºF) and checked on the oil every 10 minutes to observe the solidification process. For comparison, I also placed a small amount of cooled, used oil in the freezer.
The FryAway oil started to look hazy after 20 minutes. At the 30-minute mark, it resembled a clear gel. I was surprised by how quickly the process worked. By 40 minutes, the oil had transformed into a semi-opaque waxy mass. Following FryAway’s instructions, I then scooped the solidified oil out of my Dutch oven. It was much firmer than I expected and the entire glob came out in almost one piece. A slightly oil sheen was the only thing that remained in the pot.
To compare the results, I took the second batch of oil out of the freezer. The frozen oil was significantly softer even though it had been in the deep chiller for over 40 minutes. It was also less stable—it started to melt as soon as it was at room temperature.
The VerdictSerious Eats / Madeline MuzziIf you’re a frequent fryer, FryAway will make life easier. I tend to raise a skeptical eyebrow at highly specialized kitchen products, but these little packets did everything they claimed. They simplified the process of oil disposal and made clean-up a quick job.
Why We’re The Experts* Madeline Muzzi is a regular Serious Eats contributor, reviewing kitchen items like flatware and toaster ovens. * Madeline has made fried chicken on a hot plate in a closet. * For this review, she evaluated how FryAway worked after making a batch of deep-fried doughnuts.
Serious EatsWhen I first began experimenting in the kitchen as a kid, the first thing I took note of when opening the spice cabinet was a large container of an earthy yellow powder, often spilled and staining the shelves. This seasoning blend was very familiar to me, as it was something I regularly watched my mom generously sprinkle into her spicy chicken and coconut shrimp stews.
Many people take pride in using curry powder in their cuisines—from my Haitian family sprinkling it in chicken dishes to my Bermudian side’s inclusion of the blend in green banana and shrimp stew. The pulverized mixture of ground spices, aromatics, and sometimes thickening agents is not only a staple in Caribbean American households like my own but also across Asian, African, and Latin American cuisines.
To truly uncover the myriad ways in which many South American, Caribbean, African, South Asian, and East Asian communities use curry powder in their dishes, I spoke with several food experts, including Devan Rajkumar, a Guyanese cookbook author; Leela Punyaratabandhu, a Thai-American cookbook author; Michelle and Suzanne Rousseau, Jamaican cookbook authors; Pailin Chongchitnant, a Thai cookbook author; Rie McClenny, a Japanese cookbook author; Romy Gill, a British-Indian cookbook author; and Tomi Makanjuola, a British-Nigerian cookbook author. We discussed how this seasoning blend appears in modern Guyanese, Thai, Jamaican, Japanese, Indian, and Nigerian cooking.
Curry Powder ControversyBefore we dive into the uses of curry powder in different cuisines, it's worthwhile to understand a bit about the complicated history of powder and its connection to colonialism. In An Invitation to Indian Cooking, cookbook author Madhur Jaffrey calls the term “curry” degrading. She says that when it comes to curry powder, “the British are responsible for its creation.” By the 1850s, simultaneously while British colonizers continued to ravage India’s thriving culture and economy, British cookbooks started relying on a spoonful of curry powder in many of their dishes, according to Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerers, Lizzie Collingham. This pulverized turmeric-heavy mix, which included spices like coriander seed, cumin, fenugreek, and cayenne, rose as a means to reduce India’s vast cuisines—yep, we’re talking the subcontinent’s regional flavors and cooking techniques—into a sprinkable all-purpose substance.
Curry powder's connection to colonialism and the subjugation of Black, Brown, and Asian people has led many, including culinary experts like Jaffrey and Amirah Islam, a Top Chef Amateurs winner and food historian, to ask whether curry powder still serves a purpose or deserves a place in modern kitchens. But for many communities, it’s a little more complicated than just dumping curry powders for good—especially now that countless cooks from so many different countries use the spice blend in their cuisines. Today, you’ll find Trinidadian people sprinkling the yellow stuff in channa and Jamaicans folding the turmeric-heavy mixture in suet doughs for patties. You may also find it showing up in Thai dishes like curry puffs or Japanese staples like fried rice.
What Is Curry Powder?“The Western concept of curry powder came from the British who took the idea of ‘spice blends’ they discovered during the colonization of India, and created a blend of their own,” says Chongchitnant, author of Hot Thai Kitchen: Demystifying Thai Cuisine with Authentic Recipes to Make at Home. In the 19th century, British colonization continued to ravage India’s thriving culture and economy. As a result, these degrading systems forced many people from the subcontinent to leave their homes and seek indentured labor in unfamiliar parts of the world, which were simultaneously facing their own levels of white imperial control. During these periods of forced migration, English-produced canisters filled with curry powder infiltrated the markets of many African, Caribbean, South American, and Asian countries, to name a few.
However, over the years, this blend has transcended its bleak origins and usage, and various iterations of curry powder show up in cuisines around the globe. Though formulas vary, the blend typically includes ground spices like turmeric and coriander, aromatics like dehydrated garlic and onion, and sometimes thickening agents like rice or chickpea flour, which promote a hearty texture in stews. “[I grew] up with a spoon of curry in my mouth my whole life and eating it across all our foods,” says Rajkumar, author of Mad Love: Big Flavors Made to Share, from South Asia to the West Indies. He points out a few ingredients that historically are always present in the mixture, “I would say turmeric, coriander, cumin, fenugreek, mustard, and black pepper [are typically found in the spice blend].”
Types of Curry Powder and Where to Find ThemCurry powder comes in a range of shades, from bright yellow to deep orange and rich brown, explains Suzanne Rousseau, the co-author of Provisions: The Roots of Caribbean Cooking. Its flavors vary widely—some are so spicy that you only need a small spoonful, while others are delicately floral, with aromas that fill the air as soon as you open the package. You can find curry powder in stores and online sold in cartons, cans, jars, or bags (particularly in Caribbean, East Asian, Southeast Asian, South American, and West African markets). Below is a small sampling—the list could go on and on since there are so many types!—of curry powder brands from different regions, along with their flavor profiles and ingredient makeup. “But keep in mind that every brand has a different recipe,” Chongchitnant points out, so you’ll want to sample a few to find the best one for each dish that you’re planning to make.
Asian Curry PowdersHand No. 1 Curry Powder
Serious EatsIngredients: Turmeric, Coriander, Fenugreek, Wheat Flour, Salt, Cumin, Fennel, Chile, Black Pepper, Mustard Seed Flavor profile: Earthy
Waugh’s Curry Powder
Serious EatsIngredients: Coriander, Cumin, Turmeric, Fenugreek, Mustard Seeds, Black Pepper, Red Chili Powder, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Cloves Flavor profile: Citrusy, floral, earthy
S&B Curry Powder
Serious EatsIngredients: Turmeric, Coriander, Fenugreek, Cumin, Orange Peel, Black Pepper, Chili Pepper, Cinnamon, Fennel, Ginger, Star Anise, Thyme, Bay Leaves, Cloves, Nutmeg, Sage, Cardamom Flavor profile: Earthy, subtly spicy
African Curry PowdersLion Curry Powder
Serious EatsIngredients: Coriander, Turmeric, Fenugreek, Mustard, Rice Flour, Cumin, Salt, Ginger, Cayenne Pepper, Nutmeg, Fennel Flavor profile: Citrusy, earthy, subtly spicy
Ducros Curry Powder
Serious EatsIngredients: Turmeric, Coriander, Cumin, Fenugreek, Black Pepper, Ginger, Mustard, Fennel, Allspice, Red Pepper Flavor profile: Floral, earthy
South American and Caribbean Curry PowdersLalah’s Madras Curry Powder
Serious EatsIngredients: Coriander, Chiles, Black Pepper, Cumin, Mustard Powder, Fenugreek, Garlic, Turmeric, Salt, Bengal Gram Farina Flavor profile: Earthy, citrusy, subtly spicy
Chief Curry Powder
Serious EatsIngredients: Coriander, Turmeric, Cumin, Fenugreek, Salt, Fennel, Chiles Flavor profile: Citrusy, earthy, floral
Chief Hot and Spicy Curry Powder
Serious EatsIngredients: Coriander, Turmeric, Cumin, Fenugreek, Black Cumin, Star Anise, Chiles, Salt Flavor profile: Citrusy, floral, spicy
Baron Curry Powder
Serious EatsIngredients: Coriander, Turmeric, Fennel, White Cumin, Fenugreek, Masala, Corn Starch, Mustard Powder, Black Cumin, Chilli Pepper, Garlic, Onion, Ginger Flavor profile: Citrusy, subtly sweet, floral, spicy, earthy
Guyanese Pride Curry Powder
Serious EatsIngredients: Coriander, Turmeric, Cumin, Poppyseeds, Cardamom, Black Pepper, Chiles, Ginger, Chickpea Flour, Salt, Cardamom Flavor profile: Citrus, earthy, spicy
Maywah Curry Powder
Serious EatsIngredients: Coriander, Chiles, Black Pepper, Cumin, Mustard, Fenugreek, Garlic, Turmeric, Salt, Bengal Gram Farina Flavor profile: Citrusy, earthy
Grace Mild Curry Powder
Serious EatsIngredients: Turmeric, Fenugreek, Coriander, Cumin, Star Anise, Pepper, Pimento, Cloves, Garlic Flavor profile: Subtly sweet, floral, earthy
Grace Hot Curry Powder
Serious EatsIngredients: Turmeric, Salt, Dehydrated Garlic, Dehydrated Onion, Red Pepper, Cumin, Coriander, Allspice, Fenugreek Flavor profile: Subtly sweet, floral, earthy, spicy
Island Spice Curry Powder
Serious EatsIngredients: Turmeric, Black Pepper, Coriander, Fenugreek, Cumin, Red Pepper, Ginger, Cloves Flavor profile: Citrusy, floral, earthy, spicy
How to Store Curry PowderWhether you’ve returned from a trip abroad or just from your local specialty spice shop and finally got your hands on a very special curry powder, you might feel tempted to use it sparingly over a few years. However, Rajkumar recommends using it before its freshness diminishes. He explains that spice blends like curry powder can lose flavor over time, so storing it in an airtight container in a cool, dark, dry spot will extend its shelf life and keep its aromas potent. We recommend using ground spices within a year of purchasing. Punyaratabandhu, author of Bangkok: Recipes and Stories from the Heart of Thailand, notes you can keep your curry powder in the freezer to help maintain its freshness—just be sure it's tightly sealed to prevent it from absorbing moisture and odors.
How to Cook With Curry PowderBelow are a few examples of how chefs and food experts—representing Guyana, Thailand, Jamaica, Japan, India, and Nigeria—incorporate curry powder into their dishes.
Curry Powder in Jamaican DishesSerious Eats / Karina MatalonTo finesse a rich, aromatic Jamaican curry, a generous amount of curry powder is necessary, whether braising chicken, goat, fish, conch, chickpeas, or an Ital stew with pumpkin and plantains. The spice blend began appearing on the island in the 19th century, when Indian indentured laborers migrated to Jamaica. The Jamaican-born Rousseau sisters, authors of Caribbean Potluck: Modern Recipes from Our Family Kitchen, explain that cooks on the island often use seasoning brands like Grace Hot Curry Powder as a marinade. Suzanne notes that you can let your protein sit in this spice blend for hours, or even overnight, before browning and stewing it with vegetables, aromatics, and coconut milk. This method allows for ingredients like oxtail or goat to achieve better moisture retention and come out tender and juicy.
Michelle points out that curry powder is also a key ingredient in cultural gems like Jamaican patties, in which the seasoning gets woven into the pastry’s buttery crust before being stuffed with fillings like curry chicken or lobster. And if you visit a roadside seafood restaurant in Jamaica, Michelle says, you’ll also find grilled shrimp or lobster marinated in the turmeric-based blend.
Curry Powder in Japanese DishesVicky WasikCurry powder was introduced to Japan in the 19th century during the Meiji Restoration, according to Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerers by Lizzie Collingham, when the country was forced to sign trade treaties with Europe and the US. Today, McClenny, the author of Make It Japanese, often grinds her own spice blends from scratch—except when it comes to S&B Curry Powder, which she calls the “OG.” “When writing my cookbook, I wanted to include Japanese curry,” she says. “I tried to mimic the S&B curry powder, but I couldn’t.” She explains that the beauty of curry powder lies in its convenience. Not everyone has time to open up “30 jars of spices”—or source orange peels, which are included in the S&B brand’s mixture—to create a blend. Instead of grinding up a bunch of spices, “You can just sprinkle it,” she says. In Japanese cuisine, curry powder is essential in dishes like curry stew, curry udon, and curry bread. The Japanese-born cook details making curry bread, which involves wrapping dough around a scoop of Japanese curry stew, coating it in panko, and frying it until crispy. “And I remember my mom used [curry powder] for fried rice, just a sprinkle,” she says. “I’ve also seen people use it for potato salad.”
Curry Powder in Nigerian DishesSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineThough it wasn’t until the 19th century colonial era, when British colonizers plagued Nigeria, that curry powder made its way into the country, according to Curry: A Global History by Colleen Taylor Sen, the powder figures into many now-classic Nigerian dishes. “With Nigerian dishes, we tend to just add the curry powder in the same step that you would add dried-up spices, the salt, or other seasonings,” Makanjuola, author of the cookbook Vegan Nigerian Kitchen, says. The Nigerian-born chef remembers watching her mom sprinkle Lion’s curry powder into a pot with chicken and beef bones to enrich the flavor of the stock, which she would then use as a flavor booster for many dishes, like rice and sautéed vegetables. She also points out that one of the West African country’s most iconic dishes, jollof rice, includes curry powder. The turmeric-rich blend gives Nigerian fried rice its signature bright yellow hue and fragrant flavor, too. Curry powder also enhances the savoriness of traditional dishes like Nigerian egg sauce and red pepper sauce.
Curry Powder in Thai Dishes “There is no such thing as Thai curry powder,” Chongchitnant explains, noting that curry powder is not a traditional Thai ingredient. “I would classify them all as part of modern Thai cooking,” she says, adding that Thai cuisine traditionally relies more on fresh herbs and aromatics that create the foundation of Thai curry pastes that show up in many dishes like stir-fries and soups.
The curry spice blend didn’t even touch down in the country until the 19th century, according to Sen’s book, when British colonizers brought the pre-made spice blend with them to Southeast Asia. The popular curry powder brands that became well-known in Thailand over time are Waugh’s and S&B, which are produced in Thailand and Japan, respectively. Despite its late arrival to the country, curry powder figures into several Thai dishes. You’ll typically find this seasoning in dishes like curry crab stir fry, Chongchitnant says. Punyaratabandhu adds that curry powder is also used in dishes like curry puffs, a popular Thai snack, and fried pineapple rice.
Curry Powder in Guyanese DishesIn Guyana, you’ll find chefs and home cooks tossing curry powder in many comforting dishes like beef and breadnut stew. One of the most popular varieties, Madras curry powder—which forms the flavor base of this curry chicken salad recipe—offers a glimpse into the consequences of colonialism. Madras, the city now known as Chennai, was historically a key British extraction hub in India during the colonial era. The spice blend originally landed in Guyana in the 19th century, when Indian indentured laborers migrated to the country.
Today, chefs and home cooks across Guyana use curry powder in various dishes, especially stews such as chicken, duck, Gilbaka fish, breadnut, cassava, channa, cauliflower, and beef pepperpot. Rajkumar notes that when cooking stews, many folks on the island toast aromatics like garlic and onions first, then make a paste by mixing the curry powder with water in order to help the curry powder seep into the dish quickly, before adding it to the pot along with proteins and vegetables.
Curry Powder in Indian DishesVicky WasikWhile we can credit India for its ingenuity and culinary finesse around creating some of the most dynamic and flavorful spice blends, Gill, chef and author of Romy Gill’s India: Recipes from Home, urges people to get rid of the term curry powder and call it what it is: a spice blend. The phrase “curry powder” started showing up in British cookbooks in the 1850s, according to Collingham’s book, but it’s an inaccurate name. “Indian cuisine is so regional,” Gill affirms. There are no similarities between a garam masala—a typical Northern Indian spice blend used in dishes like cauliflower sabzi and aloo tikki—from Punjab or Bengal. “Every state has its own methods and techniques of blending the spices and making a spice blend.”
The TakeawayWhile it may take time for global perspectives toward “curry powder” to shift, we all have the opportunity as food lovers to help rewrite its narrative—acknowledging its colonial past while embracing its evolution. Black, Brown, and Asian communities, who endured the violence and devastation of imperialism, are reclaiming curry powder and using it to create dishes that will continue to be integral to their cultures for generations. In Guyana, cooks add the spice blend to duck stews, while in Nigeria, they mix it into jollof rice, reinventing the seasoning in innovative ways. Inspired by Indian culinary traditions, today, chefs, home cooks, and local spice businesses craft their own blends with specific ingredient ratios boasting different flavor profiles. What was once a consequence of colonial appropriation is now an inventive staple, thanks to the kitchen wisdom of Black, Brown, and Asian cooks.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt Glaze. Prop Stylist: Claire Spollen, Food Stylist: Chelsea ZimmerFor most of my life, I assumed that baking soda was good for two things: baking (duh) and absorbing odors. Bakers have good reason to love the stuff; when the chemical leavening agent gained popularity in the mid-19th century, it basically revolutionized the American dessert scene. But I'm not much of a baker—in my household, the oven is used for braises, roasts, and pizzas, not cookies and cakes. Which is why, until recently, my primary relationship with baking soda was limited to shoving an orange box of Arm & Hammer into the back of my fridge when things started to smell a little funky.
But in the last few years, I've learned a thing or two. For one, there are better ways to neutralize refrigerator odors. And, much to my delight, there are some pretty surprising culinary uses for baking soda that have nothing to do with baking. Let's take a look.
Snappier ShrimpVicky WasikWhen we make shrimp cocktail, shrimp skewers, shrimp scampi, or shrimp wontons, we've found that a quick brine of salt and baking soda works wonders. The salt helps keep the shrimp moist and juicy as they cook, while baking soda gives them a crisper, snappier texture. You'll notice this improvement in virtually any recipe, whether you're poaching or searing, but you'll get a bonus boost if you're applying direct heat to the shrimp. Because baking soda is alkaline (meaning it raises pH levels), it also speeds along the Maillard reaction—the chemical process responsible for the complex flavors of cooked, browned foods. Across the board, you're looking for about one teaspoon of kosher salt and a quarter teaspoon of baking soda for every pound of shrimp; give it all a quick toss, and rest the shrimp in the fridge for anywhere from 15 minutes to about an hour.
Faster-Browning OnionsVicky WasikIf you're impressed by baking soda's ability to help shrimp brown faster and more efficiently, you'll love what it does to onions. Just a quarter teaspoon for every pound of sliced onions will yield in a matter of minutes the kind of browning you'd expect from onions that have caramelized for hours. Unfortunately, it can also negatively impact the onions' flavor and texture, so we don't recommend using this method for a batch of French onion soup or for onions to top your next burger. But if you need to brown onions quickly and plan to combine them with a range of other ingredients (as in this French onion dip), baking soda can drastically cut down on your cooking time.
Balancing the Acidity of Canned TomatoesSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt Glaze. Prop Stylist: Claire Spollen, Food Stylist: Chelsea ZimmerCanned tomatoes are a great many wondrous things, but "consistent" is, sadly, not one of them—particularly when it comes to acidity, which can vary markedly from brand to brand. Happily, just a quarter teaspoon of baking soda can functionally neutralize excess acidity without impacting their texture or overall flavor. This tip is key to smoothing out the flavors of our thick and hearty Nordstrom-style tomato soup, but the same principle applies to any sauce or purée made from an unusually aggressive batch of canned tomatoes.
Turning Spaghetti Into Ramen NoodlesReal ramen noodles, like the ones above, aren't always easy to find.J. Kenji López-AltSure, turning water into wine is a pretty neat trick. But what if I told you I could turn angel hair pasta into ramen noodles? You can read all about the science right here, but suffice it to say that ramen dough includes an alkaline mineral component called kansui, which gives the noodles their yellow hue and springy texture. What's remarkable is that you can get pretty similar results by adding some baking soda to a boiling pot of spaghetti. Is it going to be identical to fresh ramen noodles? No, not quite. But it'll certainly round out a bowl of ramen if you find yourself in an Asian-grocery desert.
There are just a couple of things to keep in mind. First, don't be alarmed when you add the baking soda—it'll cause fine, foamy bubbles to form, so you'll want to make sure the pot isn't filled to the very top. Second, the more baking soda you add, the more ramen-like the pasta's texture will become, but go too far and it can develop a bitter, mineral flavor. Our rule of thumb? If you're adding the noodles to a mild or delicate broth, stick with just two teaspoons of baking soda for every quart of water. But if you're serving them in a bold, full-flavored broth, like tonkotsu, you can go all-in and add a full tablespoon of baking soda for each quart.
Softer Beans for Smoother HummusSerious Eats / Qi Ai"Soft beans" sounds more like the world's saddest boy band than the key to smoother-than-store-bought hummus, but, well, that's exactly what they are. And the fastest, most efficient route to soft beans is baking soda, which raises the pH of the cooking liquid, helping the chickpeas break down and tenderize more easily. To cook one cup of dried beans, we dissolve one teaspoon of baking soda in six cups of cold water, refreshing both water and baking soda after an overnight soak. After that, just a few simple steps lie between you and an extra-flavorful, extra-silky bowl of hummus.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyWe’ve recommended Le Creuset cookware and kitchen tools for years, and for good reason. The brand’s Dutch ovens, ceramic skillets, pasta bowls, and more have demonstrated their performance and durability through every one of our rigorous tests. It’s especially great when you can grab Le Creuset pieces at a steal, such as right now, during the brand’s winter sale. So while we never hesitate to say that a Le Creuset Dutch oven is well worth the investment, we’re particularly excited to share these deals we found on some of our tested picks, including a wide version of the best Dutch oven, a durable enameled cast iron skillet, our favorite braiser, and more. You can grab them for up to $150 off while they’re still on sale.
The Best Last-Minute Le Creuset Winter Deals, at a Glance A Wide Dutch Oven: Signature Round Wide Oven * A Shallow Dutch Oven for Braising: Traditional Shallow Round Oven * A Braiser With a Glass Lid: Traditional Braiser with Glass Lid * Our Longtime Favorite Enameled Cast Iron Skillet: Traditional Skillet * Versatile Mini Cocottes: Mini Round Cocotte * A Sophisticated and Durable Dinnerware Set: San Francisco 16-Piece Dinnerware Set * A Fast Stovetop Kettle and Sturdy Mugs:* Demi Kettle and Mugs Set
Signature Round Wide OvenLe CreusetFor years, we’ve recommended Le Creuset’s Dutch oven thanks to its impeccable heat distribution and retention. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a cool or hot spot while cooking with it. This wider version of our top pick allows for full chicken roasts and is $150 off.
Serious EatsTraditional Shallow Round OvenLe CreusetCurrently $110 off, this shallower Dutch oven offers the same cooking performance as the traditional Dutch oven, but with slightly shorter sides to promote browning. The wide, shallow base is ideal for baking casseroles or searing meatballs.
Traditional Braiser with Glass LidLe CreusetLe Creuset makes our favorite braiser, which we called “the Cadillac of braisers” in our review. The wide, flat surface allows for ample searing without any crowding and the curved sides promote smooth stirring for sauces and stews. The wide, looped handles also make it easy to maneuver it into and out of the oven. This version with a glass lid allows you to track the progress of your cooking and is $79 off.
Serious EatsTraditional SkilletLe CreusetFinished with a dark interior enamel that’s virtually impossible to stain, this enameled cast iron skillet can sear, fry, bake, and more. In our tests, it made evenly cooked cornbread and churned out nicely browned steaks. It also lasts for generations and you can grab it on sale.
Serious EatsMini Round CocotteLe CreusetIdeal for personal servings of baked oatmeal, chocolate lava cakes, or crème brûlée, these mini round cocottes are on sale for $16 each in select colors. The small ceramic bakers can also be used to hold sauces and dips on a party platter.
San Francisco 16-Piece Dinnerware SetLe CreusetA favorite of ours when it comes to dinnerware sets, this San Francisco set from Le Creuset is as durable as it gets. While lightweight, they’re still substantial enough to resist scratching and chipping over years of use, according to our associate editorial director, Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm.
Serious EatsDemi Kettle and Mugs SetLe CreusetThe Le Creuset stovetop kettle is lightning fast: It heated up 0.75 quarts of water 30 seconds faster than the competition. Plus, the spout makes for a smooth water-pouring experience. For $100, this set comes with a kettle and two mugs to complete your mornings.
Serious EatsFAQsHow do I care for Le Creuset enameled cast iron?Our guide on cleaning Dutch ovens also covers best practices for caring for enameled cast iron cookware.
What’s the best Le Creuset gear to get?We put together this handy guide to our favorite Le Creuset equipment.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a writer for Serious Eats. * An has been testing kitchen gear for Serious Eats for two years. * She loves to find vintage Le Creuset at flea markets and antique stores.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyEvery now and then, a Tex Mex-style ground beef taco really hits the spot. It was a move my mom used to make from time to time, throwing a packet of taco seasoning into some ground beef and serving the meat mixture with hard taco shells, and fixings like diced tomato, lettuce, sour cream, cilantro, avocado, and shredded cheese. It was a satisfying dinner perfect for a weeknight. Here we’ve spun the nostalgic Taco Tuesday–style taco on its head with our easy recipe for a deeply comforting, savory taco soup that hits all the notes of the classic.
Our Birmingham, Alabama-based colleague Elizabeth Mervosh developed this thick and hearty taco-inspired soup, which features ground beef, corn, and pinto beans swimming in a flavorful purée of canned fire-roasted tomatoes, charred onion, garlic, jalapeño, and cubanelle peppers. Before being served, the soup is laddled into individual bowls, topped with cheese and tortilla chips and broiled until it’s crispy and melty on top. It’s a definite step up from the average Taco Tuesday dinner.
A first glance at this taco soup’s ingredients—ground beef, beans, chiles, canned tomatoes—might make you wonder how this soup is different from chili. But while there is certainly some overlap, this soup is much brothier and thinner than the average chili, meaning you could serve both in the same week without anyone feeling like they're eating the same thing for days in a row (not that there's anything wrong with that).
Serious Eats / Fred HardyTechnique Tips for an Unparalleled Taco Soup ExperienceAdd deep flavor with a charred tomato purée base. To make this soup really special, it's worth taking just a few minutes to char the onion, garlic, and chiles (a combination of sweet Cubanelles or banana peppers and mildly spicy jalapeños) in a dry skillet before blending these aromatics with canned fire-roasted tomatoes. Charring the vegetables for the soup before blending them adds a slight smoky flavor and also brings out the sweetness in the Cubanelle pepper. Make sure to cook the vegetables until they are blistered and have brown spots all over. This ensures they develop a robust flavor that will permeate the broth.
Bloom the spice mixture in oil. For a true Taco Tuesday experience, you’ve gotta include taco seasoning, and we made sure to use a generous amount to achieve that distinctive flavor. We recommend using our homemade taco seasoning recipe, but your preferred taco seasoning blend will work just as well (I’ll always have a soft spot in my heart for Old El Paso’s taco packets).
For the best flavor, make sure to bloom the spice mixture in the oil until it’s fragrant and fully coated in the oil before adding the ground beef. The ground spices in the seasoning blend have flavor molecules that are largely fat-soluble, which means they will dissolve more readily into the oil than they would into a watery broth base. At the same time, as the taco seasoning heats and toasts in the oil, its flavor will become more fragrant and complex. Just make sure to add the meat before the taco seasoning scorches—be sure to have the package opened and ready to add to the pan.
Simmer the soup for just a few minutes. It might be tempting to slowly simmer a big pot of soup on the stovetop for a long period of time with the mindset that the longer the soup simmers, the more flavor will develop. But this is not the case with taco soup. Instead, limiting the simmering time to about 10 minutes helps you avoid overcooking the ground beef, which can easily turn dry, pebbly, and unpleasant to eat if simmered for too long.
Finish with a cheesy, crunchy topping before serving. It wouldn’t be a taco soup without the tacos. For the “taco” element in this soup, Elizabeth uses store bought tortilla chips in two different ways. First, she stirs crushed tortilla chips into the soup’s broth to help thicken the soup and add savory, toasted corn flavor.
In addition to the crushed chips in the broth, you'll also layer tortilla chips and then cheese over the individual soup bowls and broil until the cheese is just melted. This creates a great crunchy, cheesy taco-like topping.
Finished with an easy fresh salsa, this soup has all of the textures and flavors of a great ground beef taco in one big bowl of comforting soup.
For the Soup: Halve onion. Cut 1 onion half through root end to create two quarters. Set aside remaining onion half.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyHeat a large cast-iron skillet over high until hot and just smoking. Place the 2 onion quarters, Cubanelle chiles or banana peppers, garlic, and 1 of the jalapeños in hot skillet; cook, turning occasionally, until onion, garlic, and chiles are blistered and charred in spots, 3 to 8 minutes for garlic and onions and 5 to 10 minutes for chiles. Use tonga to transfer to a plate as they finish cooking; set aside, and let cool slightly, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyPeel garlic and discard skins. Remove and discard stems, skins, and seeds from chiles. Transfer the charred onion, peeled garlic, and peeled chiles to a blender, along with 1 can of the tomatoes. Process until smooth, about 30 seconds; set aside.
In a large Dutch oven, heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add taco seasoning; cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant and sizzling, about 45 seconds. Add ground beef, and increase heat to high. Cook, stirring and breaking up meat with a wooden spoon, until browned, about 3 to 6 minutes. Add tomato paste; cook, stirring constantly, until tomato paste fully coats and slightly thickens beef mixture, about 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in stock, puréed chile-garlic mixture, beans, corn, crushed tortilla chips, 1 1/2 teaspoons of the salt, and remaining 1 can tomatoes. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat; reduce heat to medium, and cook, maintaining a simmer and stirring occasionally, until flavors meld, about 10 minutes. Season with additional salt to taste, if desired.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyFor the Salsa: While soup is simmering, adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat broiler in oven. Chop the remaining onion half to equal 1/4 cup; finely chop remaining jalapeño chile to equal 1 tablespoon. (Reserve any remaining onion and jalapeño chile for another use.) In a small bowl, stir together measured chopped onion, jalapeño chile, fresh tomatoes, cilantro, lime juice, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyUsing a ladle, divide soup evenly among 6 broiler-safe soup bowls, and place on a rimmed baking sheet. Top each bowl with a few whole tortilla chips and 1/4 cup cheese. Broil until cheese is melted, about 2 minutes. Top with prepared tomato-chile salsa before serving.
Serious Eats / Fred HardySpecial EquipmentLarge cast iron skillet, blender, large Dutch oven, 6 broiler-safe soup bowls
Make-Ahead and StorageThe soup can be cooked through step 4, cooled and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days. To serve soup, reheat until simmering on the stovetop, then continue with step 4 in the recipe.
Serious Eats / Qi AiOver the years, the culinary team here at Serious Eats has covered a lot of ground in the stewing department. Beyond developing delicious recipes, we've done our best to explore the science behind stewing beef, from conducting experiments to determine the best way to brown beef to finding out whether marinating meat before stewing is worth the hassle. And of course, there's the question of whether or not beef stew is actually better the next day (which Kenji has tested thoroughly!).
Culinary experiments aside, our selection of beef stew recipes is substantial and varied. From an upgraded take on classic beef stew to wine-infused boeuf Bourguignon, spicy Texan chili con carne, and vibrant Guyanese pepperpot, we've got you covered when all you're craving is a warming bowl of comfort.
Original Texas Chili Con CarneSerious Eats / Greg DupreeA blend of chiles and spices provide this classic Texas-style chili with maximum depth of flavor. The chili is prepared on the stovetop before going into a low oven for a leisurely three-hour simmer—perfect for a lazy Sunday. If time is of the essence, Kenji adapted this recipe for the pressure cooker, which cuts the cooking time down to one hour.
Guyanese PepperpotSerious Eats / Liz VoltzPepperpot, a national dish of Guyana, is a delightful meat-based stew, rich with braised beef and infused with cinnamon, clove, thyme, and wiri wiri peppers, a small red Guayanese pepper that's prized for its bright and spicy punch. Our recipe combines oxtails with bone-in chuck and cow foot, which potentially makes it the beefiest stew in this collection.
Nigerian Beef StewSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineWhen discussing "stew" in Nigeria, the term doesn't refer to a general recipe category but instead a specific group of pepper-and-tomato–based dishes made with meat, seafood, or poultry. This recipe from Ozoz Sokoh opts for beef chuck and a combination of sweet and hot peppers, which results in a stew with an intense, savory flavor.
Boeuf Bourguignon (Beef Stew With Red Wine, Mushrooms, and Bacon)Serious Eats / Fred HardyThis French classic is revered for good reason: Well-browned beef, red wine, mushrooms, and onions are perfect companions. Daniel's recipe gets a boost from two additions of aromatic vegetables, as well as a healthy splash of Cognac and dashes of soy and fish sauce.
Khoresh-e Ghormeh Sabzi (Persian Herb and Meat Braise)Serious Eats / Nader MehravariFilled with melt-in-your-mouth meat and luscious beans, this aromatic Persian stew is hearty, comforting, and undeniably delicious.
The Best Chili EverSerious Eats / Qi AiAs Kenji notes in the introduction of this recipe, all claims to chili perfection are provisional, as improvements can always be made. Nonetheless, this chili checks all the right boxes: a rich, complex chile flavor, robust meatiness, tender beans, and a thick, deep red sauce.
Jamaican OxtailSerious Eats / Karina MatalonThis deeply flavorful Jamaican stew is loaded with tender oxtail, butter beans, and broth-thickening dumplings. Served over white rice with a side of avocado, ripe plantain, and salad or coleslaw, this is a meal you'll want to relish slowly and deliberately.
Rich and Flavorful Guinness Beef Stew With PotatoesSerious Eats / Vicky WasikDaniel's recipe improves upon this pub classic by amping up the flavor of Guinness stout with an ounce of bittersweet chocolate and a quarter cup of strong coffee. Dashes of fish sauce, soy sauce, and Worcestershire sauce deepen the savory flavor of the stew.
Goulash (Hungarian Beef and Paprika Stew)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThis rich, hearty, rib-sticking Hungarian-American goulash is made by stewing big chunks of beef, carrots, and potatoes in a broth flavored with onions, garlic, peppers, and a generous half-cup of sweet Hungarian paprika.
All-American Beef StewSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltKenji's thoroughly tested and upgraded recipe for classic beef stew delivers the goods: tender chunks of beef and vegetables coated in a rich, intense sauce. For the same delicious results in a fraction of the time, try this pressure cooker version.
Serious EatsDreo, a company you may recognize thanks to its home appliances like room fans and space heaters, quietly launched a countertop milk frother that took over all of TikTok. We wanted to see if this machine was really worth its salt (or frothed milk) so we put it through all the same tests that we used to evaluate 23 other milk frothers. After using the Dreo BaristaMaker for the past six months and making near-daily frothed milk drinks with it, we’re thinking maybe Dreo knows a thing or two about propelling air after all.
The TestsSerious EatsFoam Quality Test: We made milk foam with various types of milk and assessed how well it was able to create velvety microfoam using whole milk, oat milk, almond milk, and soy milk.
Temperature Test: We set the milk frother to its lowest temperature setting and checked it with an instant-read thermometer to test accuracy. We also timed how long it took to reach that temperature and repeated the test with a few of its higher temperature settings.
Cold Foam Test: We tested the milk frother’s cold foam setting and evaluated the quality and quantity of the resulting foam.
Usability and Cleanup Tests: We tested its alternate propeller and noted how easy it was to set up, use, clean, and store. We also used it over a period of six months to test its durability.
What We LearnedThe Dreo BaristaMaker Produces Velvety Microfoam
Serious EatsYou may have heard baristas talk about the elusive “wet paint” texture that’s the gold standard for all frothed milk. This type of microfoam has tiny bubbles evenly distributed throughout the milk and is neither too thin nor too thick. The BaristaMaker does an impressive job of achieving this wet paint texture in its hot frothed milks and is able to do so with a variety of milks we tested, including whole, oat, and soy. We made smooth matcha lattes using the BaristaMaker and were especially pleased to see plant-based frothed milk, like oat, do so well in the machine.
It’s a Feature-Packed Milk Frother
Serious EatsThe BaristaMaker has an impressive range of settings to make frothed milk for lattes, cappuccinos, flat whites, and cold foam drinks, plus a stirring function for protein shakes, matcha lattes, or hot chocolate. We especially liked that the LED display identified which propeller should be used based on the milk and beverage choice. Once the machine starts to froth, a helpful countdown timer appears to track progress.
It’s Easy to Use and Clean
This machine is also easy to operate thanks to the simple control panel that toggles through clearly marked frothing options on the display. There are little symbols for the types of milk (a cow for dairy, oats for oat milk, a soybean for soy milk, and so on). The inside of the pitcher also has clearly marked lines that indicate the ideal amount of milk to add.
The pitcher is submersible in water and even dishwasher-safe, making it easy to clean after use. The propellers are also dishwasher-safe, though we found that a quick soapy rinse under warm water cleaned them well.
The VerdictDreo BaristaMaker Milk FrotherAmazonThis milk frother is pricier than our existing top pick, but while it’s on sale, it’s $70 less than our splurge-worthy pick, which it’s able to hold its own against. The BaristaMaker is easy to use and excels at making silky microfoam for lattes or cappuccinos, especially with dairy-based milks. We were impressed with how many drink and milk options it offers and were pleased that each feature produced silky smooth milk foam as intended. It’s also incredibly easy to clean and doesn’t take up much space on the counter.
Key Specs Capacity: 15 ounces * Weight: 2.75 pounds * Dimensions: 5.31 x 9.65 inches * Temperature settings: Variable temperature function from 130ºF to over 170ºF; also cold * Foam settings: Hot cappuccino, hot latte, hot flat-white, cold thick foam, hot thick foam, stir * Care instructions:* The milk pitcher and propellers are dishwasher-safe
FAQsWhat types of milks can the Dreo BaristaMaker froth?
It has settings for cow’s milk, half and half, almond, coconut, soy, and oat milk.
Is the Dreo BaristaMaker dishwasher safe?
The milk pitcher and propellers are dishwasher-safe while the body of the machine itself can be wiped clean with a damp towel.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a writer for Serious Eats. * An has been testing kitchen equipment with Serious Eats for two years. * She loves to put coffee gear through the ringer, but is mostly looking for an excuse to make another cappuccino.
Serious Eats / Julia EstradaLike eggs, butter, and cream, yogurt is one of those incredibly versatile, easy-to-love dairy products—it can go on pretty much anything, and it can be used in sweet and savory cooking applications alike.
But there's regular ol' yogurt, the kind made by fermenting milk for four to 12 hours, and then there's Greek yogurt—the kind that's strained after fermentation to remove much of the milky whey, for a thicker, more protein- and lactose-rich product (which yes, you can make at home). Its probiotic benefits are all well and good, but what we're most excited about is how it tastes—its lactic tang and rich, creamy texture. Greek yogurt is also an exceptionally useful ingredient in many beloved baked goods, due to the flavor that lactose takes on when it browns and the way a specific milk protein, called casein, can lend a hand in moisture retention and adding volume to cakes (and cake-like baked products).
With that in mind, here are 10 of our favorite desserts that incorporate Greek yogurt, to help develop your appreciation for the many applications of this delicious treat—beyond enjoying it straight from the tub.
Classic Banana BreadVicky WasikThis is not your nana's banana bread (unless your nana is Stella Parks, in which case, wow!). Our loaf comes out with a buttery crumb and a deep banana flavor that's coaxed out by the addition of nutmeg and clove. Yogurt and oat flour together help keep the bread incredibly moist; the latter also helps the batter rise higher and the loaf last longer than one made with just all-purpose flour.
Zucchini Bread With WalnutsVicky WasikZucchini bread, like banana bread, is typically pretty sweet, greasy, and heavy on the cinnamon. This recipe switches up the standard formulation, using brown sugar in place of the usual white sugar to provide a little more flavor, and adding Greek yogurt to keep the bread tender. It's a zucchini bread that you'll want to make and eat over and over, even when you're not faced with a glut of squash taking over your garden.
One-Bowl, Overnight Cinnamon RollsSerious Eats / Julia EstradaThis recipe is a little dangerous, given how easy it is, how delicious the rolls are, and how simple the cleanup ends up being. You'll find yourself making cinnamon rolls all the time. (Not one but two Serious Eats staff members have been persuaded to finally buy a stand mixer because of this recipe, despite having withstood the temptation through years and years of tantalizing cookie recipes.) Again, strained yogurt plays a pretty important role in hydrating the dough and keeping it thick.
Easy One-Bowl Coffee CakeVicky WasikEasier to make than the cinnamon rolls above, and almost as delicious (seriously, those rolls are hard to beat), this coffee cake requires just one bowl and about an hour and a half of your time, so it's perfect to make for a late-morning brunch. The crumb topping gets a nice graham flavor from whole wheat flour and a strong hit of cinnamon that doesn't get lost in the finished dessert. The cake itself is made tangy and light thanks to the strained yogurt incorporated into the batter. It's basically the platonic ideal of a coffee cake.
Spiced Vanilla Hot Cross BunsHot cross buns are often served for breakfast on Good Friday, but these soft, gently spiced rolls are a welcome addition to any bread basket.Vicky WasikHot cross buns are traditionally served on Good Friday, but after trying this recipe once, you'll be persuaded to return to it all year long. These buns are chock-full of aromatic ingredients—vanilla, cinnamon, allspice, coriander, and candied lemon zest—while chewy dried cherries and apricots stud the tender crumb. The Greek yogurt here combines with milk to hydrate the dough, keeping it moist yet easy to handle. Make sure to use a Greek yogurt that contains only milk and active cultures; avoid brands thickened with gums, gelatin, or pectin.
Raisin Bran MuffinsVicky WasikThis recipe packs in a seemingly gargantuan amount of cinnamon, but worry not: The spice ends up forming a gentle back note that complements the wheat-y flavor of the bran. Greek yogurt is on double duty here, helping to both cool the hot bran and keep the batter thick, resulting in a beautiful dome on each muffin.
Pumpkin Streusel MuffinsVicky WasikDon't let the pumpkin-spice haters keep you from reveling in the cozy fragrance and pillowy-soft texture of these muffins on a chilly morning. We use a balanced blend of individual spices—clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger—to infuse the muffins with warm flavor, and top them off with a nutty pumpkin seed streusel. As with the raisin bran muffins above, Greek yogurt thickens the batter so that each muffin develops a gorgeously tall crown.
DIY Donettes (Mini Sugar-Coated Doughnuts)Vicky WasikA trademark bit of culinary magic from Stella, these wee powdered doughnuts are uncannily similar to the little guys you buy in a Hostess box. While the addition of Greek yogurt gives them a slight tang and keeps them soft, the real star ingredient here is the fry oil: refined coconut oil, which gives the doughnuts a buttery richness and remains odorless at high heat.
Whipped Greek YogurtVicky WasikWhipped Greek yogurt is pretty much just what it sounds like: Greek yogurt, mixed with heavy cream and sweetened with a little golden syrup, maple syrup, or honey, that's whipped until it forms stiff peaks. It makes a great topping for other desserts (like, say, this easy and super-tasty gingerbread sheet cake, which, we might add, is perfect for serving a crowd), but it's also excellent layered with seasonal fruits in a simple parfait.
White Wine Frozen YogurtMax FalkowitzWe'd be remiss if we left out the dessert that most readily comes to mind when you think of lightly fermented milk products: frozen yogurt. The thing about using Greek yogurt in a frozen application is that its lack of moisture, which is a huge advantage in baked goods, becomes a downside; the result is a little too creamy, and eating it frozen can make you feel like you're chewing on sour cream. But, because all it needs is a bit of added liquid to get it froyo-ready, it offers the perfect canvas for any sort of flavoring, like citrus juice or a syrup. One of our favorite flavoring agents to add is dry white wine, which lends floral, honeyed, and fruity notes to complement the tang from the dairy.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoWe’re halfway through January, and if there’s one thing our team here on the East Coast has been forced to come to terms with, it’s that we’re in for a looong, cold winter. The best way to make it through? Whipping up some cozy and comforting dishes. We’re talking chicken and dumplings, multiple saucy vegetarian dishes, and even a savory take on breakfast oats. Below, find the 12 recipes our editors are excited about cooking this month.
How to Cook CouscousSerious Eats / Amanda Suarez"I will be using Nargisse's brilliant method for making fluffy couscous all month long to accompany my stews, tagines, and even as an easy side with simple seared proteins. It is such a smart, easy technique to ensure store bought couscous doesn't clump together into a sticky mess (which almost always happens with boxed par-cooked and dried couscous)." —Leah Colins, senior culinary editor
Dal MakhaniSerious Eats / Qi Ai"I have stared at the photos of Rachel Gurjar's new dal makhani recipe for—and I am not being dramatic—at least 20 minutes a day each day since it published. I must make it soon. I just know it'll fix me." —Tess Koman, executive editorial director
Butter Swim BiscuitsSerious Eats / Robby Lozano"I would like a whole pan of these biscuits right now, please! Not only are they easy to make, but they're described as tender, fluffy, crispy, and oh-so-buttery. I'm sold." —Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, associate editorial director
Southern Fried ShrimpSerious Eats / Robby Lozano"I come from a Southern fish fry family. IYKYK. Previous gatherings on my mother’s side have been feasts of fried whiting, hush puppies, and of course, fried shrimp. Next time I’m home for the weekend, I think I’ll make the very brave decision to 'switch it up' with a fried shrimp dredge that doesn't come from a box or a bag." —Kelli Solomon, senior social media editor
Zha Paigu (Taiwanese Fried Pork Chops)Serious Eats / Deli Studios"I'm so excited to make Clarissa's fried and braised pork chops, which are a staple of railway bento boxes in Taiwan. Bathed in soy sauce, rice wine, and sesame oil, these pork chops are deeply savory with a hint of sweetness—and I can't wait to eat them atop a bowl of white rice." —Genevieve Yam, culinary editor
Savory Turmeric OatsSerious Eats / Shri Repp"I'm a breakfast lover through and through, and while I've got a good rotation of recipes I lean on, sometimes I get tired of them pretty easily. I've been wanting to make savory oats for some time now, but I never found the right recipe to get me excited about them—until now. Loaded with flavor, Rachel Gurjar's savory turmeric oats are just what I've been waiting for, and I can't wait to give them a try." —Yasmine Maggio, associate editor
Sheet-Pan Roasted Chicken, Sweet Potatoes, and Brussels SproutsSerious Eats / Robby Lozano"I've been eating out a lot lately and need some inspiration to cook at home, and this sheet pan dinner recipe from pro recipe developer Renu Dhar is just what I need to get excited about cooking on a weeknight. It's easy but full of flavor and stars ingredients such as Brussels sprouts and sweet potatoes—vegetables I can actually get at my farmers market this time of year." —Megan O. Steintrager, associate editorial director
Butternut Squash and Kale FarrottoSerious Eats / Amanda Suarez"This butternut squash and kale farrotto is practically a one-pot meal: You just have to roast your squash, then cook the farro with some onions, broth, and kale. It's so easy, so delicious, and so comforting—especially on a cold winter night." —Genevieve Yam
Chicken and DumplingsSerious Eats / Lorena Masso"There is nothing I love more than chicken and dumplings on a cold winter Midwest night. It's hearty, comforting, and a perfect weekend cooking project. I can't wait to make this recipe to warm my heart and soul this January." —Haley Scarpino, newsletter editor
Channa MasalaSerious Eats / Mateja Zvirotic Andrijanic"To survive the rest of this winter, I'll be making this channa masala on repeat. It's easy, quite adaptable based on what I have on hand, and most importantly, very filling. I love that it's brimming with warm spices, and though it comes together in just half an hour, I like to let it simmer for up to an hour to allow the flavors to settle in." —An Uong, writer
How to Cook Dried Beans"Beans, beans, and more beans. I've been trying to clear out a backlog of dried beans that have been sitting in my pantry too long. I don't follow any specific recipe, but I more or less follow the basic steps outlined in the guide here, give or take small deviations and adjustments here and there depending on my mood. Then we use the cooked beans a variety of ways (in salads, warmed with other add-ins, etc.) during the week until they're all gone." —Daniel Gritzer, editorial director
Pan-Fried Vegetable DumplingsShao Z."It's Lunar New Year on January 29th, so of course I'm going to make pan-fried vegetable dumplings! While not traditionally part of Vietnamese Tét foods (like bánh chung), dumplings have become a non-negotiable at my Lunar New Year table simply because I love these chewy-crispy pouches of goodness." —An Uong
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhen I got my first kitchen job as a prep cook, I invested in a fancy apron. It was made of thick, dark-washed denim and had a cross-back strap system that clipped to the fabric so it was easy to take off and adjust. But after a week of using it, I was ready to throw it in the bin: The clasps on the straps kept popping open, causing a chain reaction of a strap flapping free and the apron collapsing on one side.
From this, I learned that sometimes the best kitchen apron is the simplest: It covers you up, has a few pockets for tools like thermometers or kitchen tweezers, and can adjust to fit a myriad of body shapes. Clips, extraneous straps, and dozens of pockets often get in the way rather than help. With this criteria in mind, I tried on, stained, washed, and used more than 18 aprons to find options that’ll keep you and your clothes spiffy.
The Winners, at a GlanceThis was a classic, adjustable loop-neck apron with long ties that provided a versatile fit. A lesson in simplicity, it had two front pockets and one chest pocket—the perfect amount of built-in storage. It also comes in a dazzling array of colors, prints, and patterns.
This rugged apron was easy to adjust and sported extra pockets, adding to its utility. At first, I was skeptical of the hexagonal chest pocket, but it was actually a great shape for quickly slipping in a Sharpie on one side and tucking a thermometer into the other. The simplicity and practicality of this apron won me over, and I found myself reaching for it daily.
The thick cotton made this $30 apron feel like it was worth double the price. I liked the simple structure with two front pockets and an adjustable neck loop. It’s a solid, simple apron that’ll keep you covered.
The beauty of a crossback apron is that it has one continuous tie, so when you pull the ends to tighten it, the whole apron conforms to your body. As a short person who often needs to fold an apron to tie it, this was a boon. This crossback apron from Hedley & Bennett fit snugly and provided all-over coverage. It was one of my go-to's when I used the aprons in my daily cooking routine.
If you use your apron in the toolshed just as much as you do in the kitchen, then this is the one for you. It’s got oodles of pockets ready to be stuffed with thermometers, pliers, tweezers, and maybe even a snack. The sturdy firm-hand cotton protects you from hot liquids and other cooking hazards.
This simple, airy smock apron has been an editor favorite for years. It’s easy to drape over your body, sports two pockets and a towel loop, and provides good coverage.
Made with thick cotton in a simple, boxy shape, this smock-style apron was roomy and had a versatile fit. Its turmeric and oat-colored stripes were gorgeous too.
The TestsSerious Eats / Grace Kelly Fit and Feature Test: I tried on every apron and had my husband do so as well to get an idea of how they fit on different body types. I also tucked an instant-read thermometer, my phone, and a Sharpie into the various pockets. If an apron had a kitchen towel loop, I tried that out too. * Stain and Clean Test: I stained each apron with one tablespoon of tomato sauce, mimicking getting them dirty while cooking. I let them sit for an hour before washing them in cold water and letting them air-dry. If the apron was not machine-washable, I followed the manufacturer’s instructions for cleaning. * Daily Use Test:* I used my favorite aprons for a few weeks, noting if they were comfortable and how they held up over time.
What We LearnedA Note on Apron StylesAprons come in a variety of styles, including loop-neck, crossback, and smocks.Serious Eats / Grace KellyWho knew a simple apron could come in so many varieties? I tested three styles: neck-loop aprons, crossback aprons, and smock aprons. Each has its pros and cons, and choosing which you want can come down to fit preferences. Let’s dive into them.
A standard loop-neck apron offers adjustability and a fitted style, and it often has two sets of pockets: two near the hips and one at the chest. A crossback apron is very similar, except to adjust the fit you pull on the ties rather than fiddle with the neck loop. Both loop-neck and crossback aprons often require tying the apron in the back or wrapping the ties around the front and securing them. They are slightly more difficult to put on and take off than a smock apron.
Smock aprons slip over your head and arms and offer a roomy fit along with good coverage. The only downside to this style was that it wasn’t quite as secure as the crossback and loop-neck aprons: Because of the lack of ties, when I put things in the pockets, like my phone or a thermometer, the weight of the items tugged the apron down.
Adjustments Were Key Being able to adjust the apron to fit nicely was a key component of a great apron.Serious Eats / Grace KellyA good apron should be adjustable so it fits comfortably. Crossback aprons were the easiest to adjust since the ties are a singular strand—when pulled, it affects the fit of the entire apron. Neck-loop aprons were the second easiest to fit, with adjustable neck loops that could be tightened or loosened. Adjustments are essential since many aprons are one-size-fits-all, so it’s nice to be able to tweak the fit to get the best coverage.
The Pinnafore Crossback Linen Apronwas attached at the back, making it more restrictive and definitely not one-size-fits-all—my husband couldn’t get it over his shoulders. The same went for the Uncommon Threads Restaurant Bib Apron, which had a neck loop that wasn’t adjustable. When I tried it on, the apron fell too low, leaving a large section near the top of my shirt exposed.
Stains Were (Mostly) InevitableMost aprons stain, but they are doing their job and protecting your clothes from splatters and messes.Serious Eats / Grace KellyIf you cook anything that burbles, you’re probably going to make a mess of your apron. But that’s okay—it’s supposed to help you avoid having a Jackson Pollock of tomato sauce, whipped cream, oil, and other liquids splattered over your clothing. And since most of the aprons I tested were made of cotton or linen, they did stain.
After smearing tomato sauce on every apron and letting them sit for an hour, I tossed the machine-washable ones into the washer with some gentle laundry detergent and ran it on cool. Pretty much every single apron emerged with a stain—the exceptions were dark-colored aprons, which just hid the rusty splotch better, and the Hedley & Bennett Waxman Apron, which has a layer of soy wax that protects the cloth. (It’s also not machine-washable, but spot cleaning did remove the sauce without any residue.)
If there are any egregious stains you simply cannot abide, I suggest grabbing a detergent pen and going that route. But, overall, a well-used apron will likely pick up some stains over time.
Extras Weren't Always a Good ThingWhile built-in potholders might seem like a boon, they were tricky to use properly.Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Williams Sonoma Ultimate Apron and the Five Two Ultimate Apron both had built-in pot holders, which sounded like a genius idea…in theory. In practice, however, the thick “pot holder” areas were spaced too close to each other, and using them to grab a hot Dutch oven felt unsafe. Stick to using a separate pair of oven mitts or pot holders to grab hot dishes.
Let Aprons Air-DryMost aprons were fine to go in the washing machine, but air drying was better than machine drying.Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhile some aprons were technically dryer-friendly, I recommend hanging your aprons up to dry, since most of the aprons I tested were made of cotton and linen and were prone to shrinking. I’ve owned a Hedley & Bennett Smock Apron for about a year now and in a rush to wear it after washing, I’ve frequently tossed it in the dryer. No surprise: It’s shrunk significantly and now measures 27.25 inches long versus the new apron I tested, which measures 30.25 inches. It still works great, though.
Material Is a Matter of PreferenceMaterial is a matter of preference. Linen is light and airy, but does wrinkle easily.Serious Eats / Grace KellyThere are pros and cons to the various materials used for aprons. Polyester can be more waterproof than cotton or linen, but it’s also not as comfortable or breathable. Cotton is heavy-duty, even more so when it’s coated in wax, but it can be bulky. Linen is airy and light, but it stains and wrinkles easily. In short, I’d go with whatever is non-negotiable for you. I’m a messy cook, so a polyester apron is a godsend, but if you’re tidy and don’t want to feel encumbered by your apron, linen or cotton could be the way to go.
The Criteria: What to Look for in an ApronSerious Eats / Grace KellyA good apron should be versatile, easy to adjust, and keep you covered from splatters and spills. Material preferences are subjective, so consider your needs: For example, cotton is quite breathable but is prone to shrinking and staining. Storage is also a factor—I liked aprons with at least three pockets, with one near the chest and two near the waist. Beware of superfluous additions, like pot holders, which can raise the price without practical benefit.
Our Favorite ApronsWhat we liked: Simply designed, easy to adjust, and with the perfect trio of pockets, I couldn’t have asked for more in an apron. The cotton twill was soft and comfortable while still having the heft to protect me from a pot of burbling tomato sauce. It’s a practical apron, but it comes in a variety of colors, prints, and patterns for a dose of fun.
What we didn’t like: There was some sloppy sewing at the ends of the ties, and a few threads came loose after I washed the apron. The tomato sauce stain didn’t come out, though this was common with most aprons.
Key Specs Style: Loop neck * Materials: Cotton twill * Length: 32.25 inches * Features: Chest pocket, two large pockets, towel loop * Care:* Machine-wash cold, hang-dry, or tumble-dry on low; do not soak; low iron as needed
What we liked: This apron was utilitarian—but in the best way. It’s made of a recycled polyblend so it won’t shrink as much as cotton, and the front pockets were wide, accessible, and spacious.
The loop neck was easy to adjust, and the apron length hit the sweet spot at a little over 32 inches. This ensured proper coverage without making me feel like I was swimming in fabric. I also didn’t have to fold it to get it to fit right. It’s fairly waterproof, too—I accidentally sprayed myself with water while doing the dishes and the apron didn’t become a sopping mess. And at under $80, I think it’s reasonably priced.
What we didn’t like: The apron I tested was black, so while it seemed like the tomato stain came out, it was hard to tell. In general, I prefer cotton or linen over polyblends, which aren’t as soft.
Key Specs Style: Loop neck * Materials: Recycled polyethylene terephthalate * Length: 32.25 inches * Features: Hexagonal top pocket, three bottom pockets, towel loop * Care:* Machine-wash cold and air-dry; do not bleach or iron
What we liked: I’ll own up to it: Most of the aprons I tested and liked were on the pricey side. That’s why I think this thick, cotton, $30 offering from Williams Sonoma is a great budget option. It has a classic loop neck design that’s easy to adjust and it sports a spacious lower pocket for stashing a thermometer and/or your phone. It’s flexible and the soft material didn’t inhibit movement.
What we didn’t like: The white striped pattern meant stains were more visible. The metal neck loop adjustment cinch was a little slippery and prone to loosening as I wore the apron.
Key Specs Style: Loop neck * Materials: Cotton * Length: 33.75 inches * Features: Two front pockets * Care:* Machine-washable
What we liked: I had never tried a crossback apron before testing, but now I’m a convert. This clever design, where the ties are one continuous strip of fabric, means it’s incredibly easy to adjust the apron to fit snugly. Just pull both sides of the tie until the apron sits as you like it, then secure it with a bow. Hedley & Bennett added tough but comfortable cotton canvas to the mix (though it does come in other materials, like denim) in addition to a kitchen towel loop and three pockets, making it a versatile pick.
What we didn’t like: The only downside to a one-size-fits-all cross-back apron is that the ties are very long to accommodate different body types. On my petite frame, this led to a very large bow with two lengthy, trailing ends. However, it’s a small price to pay for a great, easily adjustable apron.
Key Specs Style: Crossback * Materials: Cotton canvas * Length: 32.75 inches * Features: Chest pocket, two large pockets, towel loop * Care:* Machine-wash cold, hang-dry, or tumble-dry on low; do not soak; low iron as needed
What we liked: Have a wok burner in your backyard? Fire up the propane torch often? Break down whole chickens weekly? Then this heavy-duty apron might be for you. The brand literally says it's for “carpenters, cooks, and weekend mechanics.” Sounds about right. It’s made of thick, firm duck cotton, meaning you’re safe from a sputter of hot oil or tomato sauce. (For people like me who didn’t know what duck cotton was, it’s basically heavy, plain-woven cotton that’s known for being durable.) And if you’re a kitchen gear geek like I am, or just like having a screwdriver or wrench on your person at all times, this apron is loaded with pockets. It has four large pockets and two smaller ones, including one with a zipper, which I tucked my favorite chapstick into.
What we didn’t like: The thick material made it stiff and bulky at first, but with frequent wear, it started to relax a bit. The ties are a little slippery, which made them tricky to cinch securely, and the apron only comes in two colors: black or camel.
Key Specs Style: Crossback * Materials: Firm duck cotton * Length: 32 inches * Features: Four large front pockets, two small chest pockets, zipper * Care:* Machine-wash cold on gentle cycle with mild detergent; do not bleach; tumble-dry on low and remove promptly; do not iron; do not dry clean
What we liked: This smock apron is beloved by Serious Eats editors for many reasons: It’s easy on, easy off, the straps are comfortable, and the linen-cotton blend is breathable. Rather than feeling pinched and stuffed into an apron, you can breeze around the kitchen in this flowy smock. It provided great coverage in my tests, too, keeping my clothes safe from overzealous blobs of tomato sauce and sputtering fry oil. I’ve had one of these aprons for about a year now, and it’s still in fantastic shape even after frequent use.
What we didn’t like: My only peeve about this apron is that when I put anything moderately heavy in the pockets the whole thing sags. Also, whatever you do, don’t hot-tumble dry it! It will shrink, as evidenced by the three-inch difference in length between the apron I own (and have dried multiple times) and the new one I tested.
Key Specs Style: Cross-back smock * Materials: Cotton, linen * Length: 30.25 inches * Features: Two front pockets, towel loop * Care:* Machine-wash cold on gentle cycle; line-dry and medium iron as needed; do not soak
What we liked: Made of thick cotton with a turmeric and oat-colored striped pattern, this apron was gorgeous. While some smock aprons were so voluminous they made me feel like I was swimming in fabric, this one provided the perfect amount of coverage without being excessively large: The top of the apron sat high on the chest and the fabric extended down 29 inches. The apron didn’t sag so much when the pockets were filled because the shoulder straps were wide-set—a big win in my book.
What we didn’t like: It’s expensive and was short on taller folks (i.e., my husband).
Key Specs Style: Smock * Materials: Cotton * Length: 28.75 inches * Features: Two front pockets * Care:* Machine-wash; tumble-dry or hang-dry
The Competition Hedley & Bennett Waxman Apron: Made of cotton coated with soy wax, this sturdy apron resisted spills and stains. The leather neck loop was easy to adjust and the whole thing just felt incredibly well made and durable. Since it’s made of waxed cotton, it’s quite stiff at first—I could literally fold the bottom and it would stay folded. I wished I could have tightened the neck loop more, since the top of the apron was a little low on my chest. It’s more finicky when it comes to cleaning, too (no washing, no bleaching, no drying—just spot cleaning), and costs four times the amount of the Carhartt, an equally hardy apron. * Tilit Supply Apron: Made of ripstop, this was a durable, practical, and lightweight apron that did the basics well. The neck loop was easy to adjust, too. Its downside was the lack of front pockets. While it did have a chest pocket, it was shallow, small, and off-kilter; I could slip a Sharpie inside, but anything larger fell out. It also had a lower pocket, but it was oddly located on the inside of the apron, which made it difficult to access. * Merci Washed Linen Apron: This is a gorgeous linen apron that provided good coverage without being restrictive. However, it’s also massive—it grazed my toes. While this means it can accommodate a variety of heights, I had to roll it up a lot to get it to fit me. The neck “loop” has to be tied off to adjust it, there aren’t any pockets, and because it’s linen, it was super wrinkled after washing. * Five Two Ultimate Apron with Built-In Pot Holders: This apron hit just below my knees, providing good coverage, and the neck loop was easy to adjust. The pockets were nice and roomy and in a good spot. However, while the material felt sturdy, it was also a little itchy on my neck. The built-in pot holders were a cool idea, but I question the true utility of using your apron to grab a hot dish. Plus, they were rather close together, which made the grabbing motion cramped. * Tilit Contra Chef’s Apron: This apron could have been a contender but for one fatal flaw: the snap button that attaches the neck loop to the apron broke off immediately. To be fair, this could be a fluke, but I couldn’t test the apron because I couldn’t get it to stay on. A bummer, since I liked the lightweight, waxy cotton material and streamlined form. * Uncommon Threads Restaurant Bib Apron: The neck loop on this apron isn’t adjustable. This is a ginormous Achilles heel since it left much of my upper body exposed. The material was itchy and slick, and there were no pockets. * Pinnafore Crossback Linen Apron: While I love a good smock apron, this one looked more like a dress—and fit like one too. You see, the back of the apron was sewn together near the top, meaning it’s most definitely not one-size-fits-all. My husband couldn’t get it over his shoulders. * Studiopatro Cross-Back Linen Kitchen Apron: This was a really thin apron. The crossback tie system, while a boon on other aprons because of adjustability, felt flimsier. The ties also frequently slipped out of the loops. * Williams Sonoma Ultimate Apron: This apron felt bulky when I tied it tightly, and it was difficult to access the high-set front pockets. It also took some fiddling to adjust the fit, since the material was quite thick and bunched up when I tugged on the ties. Again, built-in potholders may seem like a boon, but I just don’t think they’re practical or safe. * Rough Linen The Original Linen Pinafore Apron: While undoubtedly a lovely linen apron, it was very big and the shoulder straps were set quite far apart; they slipped off my shoulders frequently. * Hadley & Bennet Pinnafore Apron: This super cute apron gives Alice in Wonderland* vibes. Unfortunately, I’m not sure it would have stayed on her when she fell down the rabbit hole. The neck and waist ties were wide, which made them bulky and tricky to secure tightly.
FAQsWhich style of kitchen apron is the easiest to get on and off?A smock-style apron is super easy to put on and remove—there are no ties, you just slip it over your head. We love the ones from Hedley & Bennett and Minna.
What do chefs put in their aprons?All kinds of goodies: instant-read thermometers, kitchen tweezers, markers for labeling containers…the list goes on. Basically, whatever you want to have on hand and easy access to goes into a pocket.
Why We're the Experts* Grace Kelly is an editor at Serious Eats, where she’s been testing kitchen gear and supplies for almost three years. * Prior to this, she worked in restaurant kitchens and was an editor at America’s Test Kitchen. * For this review, Gracetested 18 aprons by trying them on and using their features, staining and cleaning them, and donning them during her everyday cooking routine. She also had her husband try on each apron, to account for different body types and preferences.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFilipino food is ripe with examples of comfort meals, and one of my favorites is beef nilaga, also called nilagang baka. This hearty meal features a piping hot homemade broth with tender chunks of beef and a colorful array of fresh vegetables, such as cabbage, potatoes, bok choy, and corn. All of its elements are thoughtfully prepared to ensure each bite of nilagang baka’s melt-in-your-mouth beef, buttery bits of bone marrow and tendon, and unctuous vegetable-laden broth is a symphony of textures, colors, and flavors.
A Brief History of Beef NilagaIn the Philippines, to laga means to stew, boil, or cook in water. Nilaga is the act of cooking in water and the noun used before or after the word signifies what kind of meat was used—in this case baka, meaning beef, comes together with “laga” to make “nilagang baka.” Nilaga is a pre-colonial cooking method used all over the different islands of the Philippines. However, beef was not an ingredient in the earliest versions of this soup—instead, it typically was made with pork and vegetable scraps.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoBetween the 16th and 19th centuries, Spanish colonizers brought cattle from Mexico to Masbate via the Manila-Acapulco Galleon trade—a Spanish trade route that connected the Philippines to Mexico across the Pacific Ocean from the late 16th to early 19th century. The Spanish set up ranches and imported cattle, which they crossed with the Chinese Yellow cow to make four Philippine heritage breeds, now recognized as native cattle.
Beef became the symbol of luxury in the Philippines and was reserved for the elite. Beef is still an expensive meat in the Philippines—only the wealthy consume prime cuts like ribeye or tenderloin regularly, while for everyone else these cuts are reserved for celebrations. But offal like tendons and cheaper “off cuts” like shank do show up frequently in everyday meals, as they do in this robust soup.
My Tips and Special Techniques for the Ultimate Beef NilagaRegional variations prove this soup’s versatility, and each cook adds their own twists to the classic recipe. They might use pork, chicken, or fish instead of beef; include sangkot (add ons) such as saba banana ( a short, thick Filipino banana); omit ingredients like tendons; or tweak the soup depending on what is available or in season. Some love nilaga with a splash of fish sauce, others prefer a fiery kick from chiles served on the side as a garnish, and still others keep it simple, letting the meat and vegetables shine on their own.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoWhile my beef nilaga resembles and tastes like the traditional versions I know and love, it features my own technique twists on the traditional soup. To start, instead of slowly simmering the beef bones for many hours to make the stock (some recipes call for simmering the stock and meat for over eight hours!), I use a pressure cooker. While it’s still a lengthy preparation for this soup, using the pressure cooker shaves hours off of the cooking time.
After the broth is prepared, for intense, rich beef flavor, I opt for a combination of tendons and beef shank. I love the silky, bouncy texture of tendons and beef shank’s rich beef flavor, especially in soups. Pressure-cooking the shanks and tendons together with the prepared beef stock saves hours of simmering time, and further infuses the broth with rich meaty flavor and collagen for a velvety texture.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoWhile most homestyle beef nilaga recipes call for simmering the beef and vegetables all in the same pot until they’re very soft, I’m approaching this dish as one would approach ramen or pho, with the different components of the soup coming together in the bowl, rather than in the pot. To do so, the corn and potatoes are roasted separately before they're added to the soup. This deepens their flavor and helps them retain their shape in the bowl.
I know this is a departure from the one-pot cooking methods usually applied to most Filipino home dishes. However, being able to enjoy and celebrate each perfectly cooked ingredient of the soup in each bite is worth the extra effort.
For the beef stock: Fill a large stockpot halfway with cold water. Add bones and bring to a boil over high heat until you see bubbles forming at the top and the blood and other impurities are drawn out of the bones, about 5 minutes. Drain the bones to rinse off any remaining scum, then pat dry.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoAdjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Lightly coat bones with oil and arrange in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet or in a roasting pan. Roast, turning bones once or twice, until beginning to turn golden brown, 30 to 40 minutes.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoTransfer roasted beef bones to a stovetop or electric pressure cooker (such as an Instant Pot). Pour off and discard (or save for another use) any accumulated fat from the pan. Pour a thin layer of boiling water into the still-hot roasting pan and scrape up any browned bits. Pour pan juices into the pressure cooker. Add enough cold water to bring level to the cooker's max-fill line; do not let water exceed the max-fill line, even if some solids are not submerged.
Close pressure cooker lid, bring to high pressure, and cook for 2 hours 30 minutes. Allow cooker to depressurize naturally. Carefully open cooker and strain stock through a fine-mesh strainer into a large pot. Discard solids, though if there's shank meat in there, be sure to reserve it to add to the soup. (At this stage the broth can be cooled and refrigerated for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 3 months before continuing with the recipe.)
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFor the beef shank and tendons: Pat beef shanks dry, and sprinkle evenly all over with 1 tablespoon salt and 1/2 tablespoon pepper. Set on a large plate or sheet pan and refrigerate, uncovered for 1 to 12 hours.
Once broth is prepared through step 4, In a large cast iron or stainless-steel skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over high heat until just smoking, add beef shanks in batches if needed, and sear on all sides until browned and caramelized, turning as needed, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoReturn the now-strained beef broth (about 2 1/2 quarts) to the pressure cooker and add the seared shanks and tendons along with the reserved leek green tops, scallions, ginger, 1/2 tablespoon garlic, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook on high pressure for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Let the pressure release naturally, about 30 minutes, then transfer shanks and tendons to a large bowl or plate and set aside. Strain the beef broth into a large soup pot or Dutch oven; discard strained aromatics. Add the cooked shanks and tendons to the broth in the large pot; set aside.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFor the corn and potatoes: Adjust oven rack to upper middle and lower middle positions and set oven temperature to 425°F (220℃). In a rimmed baking sheet, arrange corn and drizzle with 1 tablespoon oil, making sure to coat all sides. On a separate rimmed baking sheet, toss potatoes with 2 tablespoons oil, season with salt and pepper, and spread into an even layer. Roast both sheet pans, corn on upper-middle rack and potatoes on lower-middle pack, until corn is browned all over, 20 to 30 minutes, and potatoes are cooked through and edges turn brown and crisp, about 20 minutes, flipping food on sheet trays about half way through. Set sheet trays aside.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoOnce corn is cool enough to handle, cut kernels from cobs and reserve kernels. (Cobs can be reserved for making a separate vegetable stock.)
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFor the fried garlic: In a small skillet, heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil and remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons garlic over medium-high and cook, stirring frequently, until garlic is crispy and brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFor finishing the soup: To the large soup pot with the beef stock and meat, add the leek bottoms, cabbage, bok choy, onion, and fish sauce and bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until onions, cabbage, and bok choy soften and turn translucent, about 20 minutes. Season broth to taste with extra fish sauce or salt, if needed.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoStir in the corn and cook until warmed through, about 5 minutes. Portion the meat and divide the soup evenly into individual bowls, topping with portions of the roasted potatoes. Garnish with scallions and prepared fried garlic with oil and serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment Large stock pot or Dutch oven, pressure cooker, strainer, small skillet
NotesFor the broth, make sure the beef bones are cut short enough to fit into your pressure cooker (ask your butcher to cut them shorter if not). You can use any assortment of bones your butcher has, but bones with bits of meat still attached will give more flavor, while connective tissue–rich options like joints and feet will deliver more gelatin to the stock; you can also include some veal bones for even more gelatin. A cross-cut beef shank, while not required, will boost the flavor even more; add the meat to the soup so it doesn't go to waste.
I recommend saving the trimmings when you prepare the cabbage, bok choy, leeks, ginger, and onion; you can use them (as well as the roasted corn cobs) to make a vegetable stock for another use.
If you prefer to use boneless shanks, cut into 2-inch cubes and follow the recipe as written for bone-in shanks.
If you like, you can use other vegetables, such as green beans, carrots, napa cabbage, or mushrooms instead of or in addition to the vegetables in the recipe. Monitor their simmering time and cook until they are just tender.
Make-Ahead and Storage* The beef stock can be cooled and refrigerated for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 3 months before continuing with the recipe. * You can also pressure cook the shanks and tendons ahead of time, cover and refrigerate broth, shanks, and cooked tendons for up to 3 days, and heat up to serve with the soup. * Leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosI grew up in Pakistan, and a family-favorite dish was aloo kee bhujia, a dish of potatoes stir-fried with spices and tomatoes. My mom was always quick to turn to this minimal-effort dish as a choice for feeding our family of six, and we often enjoyed it as a side to hefty meat dishes like aloo gosht (a meat and potato curry) and daal gosht (lentils with goat). In India, aloo kee bhujia refers to a spiced mixture of gram flour and boiled potatoes that are riced and deep-fried until crisp. West of the border in Pakistan, however, aloo kee bhujia is a silky-smooth cooked potato dish that is meant to be eaten as a meal or as an accompaniment to a bigger spread. Today, the dish—which has a jammy tomato gravy, plenty of heat from Kashmiri chile powder, and earthiness from cumin—remains a staple in my own home.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosRecently, I was inspired to incorporate some of aloo kee bhujia’s flavors into a gratin. Packed with cheese, tomatoes, and seasoned with cumin, cayenne, turmeric, chile powder, and smoked paprika, this spiced potato gratin has all the traditional components of aloo kee bhujia but with the signature creaminess of gratin. I start by sautéing onion and garlic with the spices, add the sliced potatoes and tomatoes, then let it all simmer until the spuds are tender. While that cooks, I prepare the mornay cheese sauce that serves as the base of the gratin. Tossed with the potatoes and baked, the gratin is a cheesy, comforting dish that’s homey enough for a weeknight meal but is also impressive enough for a dinner party. Here’s how to make it.
How to Make a Delicious Spiced Potato GratinReach for good Gruyère. Like most gratins, the flavor of this dish will be determined by the quality of the dairy you use. I recommend using a good quality Gruyère, which has a pleasant nuttiness that goes well with the spices. It also melts easily, making it a great cheese to use in a gratin.
Go hard on the spices. For a dish that truly evokes aloo kee bhujia, I use all the same spices I’d use to prepare the traditional Pakistani dish: cumin seeds, cayenne pepper, ground turmeric, Kashmiri chile powder, and smoked paprika. I add the spices as I sauté the onion and garlic, allowing the flavors to bloom and meld in the hot oil. As Serious Eats contributor Nik Sharma wrote in his recipe for tadka, heat can “transform some of the flavor molecules in spices into new, tastier ones,” resulting in “an amplified sensorial experience that would not otherwise be achieved in the absence of heat.”
Serious Eats / Deli Studios
Be gentle with the potatoes. Use a gentle hand when you incorporate the potatoes and fold in the cheese sauce. Since the potatoes are partially cooked at this point, handling them too aggressively may result in mashed potatoes—which, while delicious, is not gratin.
Broil until crisp—but keep an eye on the gratin. One of the best parts of a gratin is the crisp golden brown topping. A brief stint under the broiler helps easily achieve this, but it’s essential that you keep an eye on the gratin, as broilers can vary in strength and your gratin can quickly go from wonderfully brown to burned.
It’s not the aloo kee bhujia of my childhood, but it’s a fun, delicious riff that reminds me of home and the food I grew up on—even when I’m so far away.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350ºF (175ºC.)
In a 12-inch cast iron or stainless-steel skillet, heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions and cumin seeds and cook, stirring often, until onions are softened and beginning to brown, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic, cayenne, turmeric, Kashmiri chile powder, smoked paprika, and salt, and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosAdd potatoes and toss to evenly coat in spices, taking care to separate any slices that are sticking together. Add the tomatoes and stir to combine. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, covered, stirring halfway through, until tomatoes soften and potatoes are cooked through and tender, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat; set aside.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosIn a small saucepan, melt butter over medium-low heat. Whisk in flour and cook, stirring, until mixture begins to bubble, 1 to 2 minutes. Whisk in milk gradually and cook, stirring often, until mixture thickens, about 3 minutes. Stir in cheese, allowing it to melt slightly, about 1 minute. Add cheese mixture to potatoes, gently tossing to evenly coat. Transfer to a 8- by 8-inch baking dish, and gently press potatoes into an even layer then cover tightly with foil.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosSet baking dish on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until potatoes are tender and tomatoes are jammy, about 35 minutes. Remove foil and cook gratin until beginning to brown and sauce has thickened, 10 to 15 minutes. Turn the oven broiler on high and return gratin to the oven; cook until the top is golden brown and crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. (Watch gratin closely as broilers vary greatly in strength and can quickly burn unattended food.) Remove from oven and let rest for 10 minutes before serving.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosSpecial Equipment12-inch cast iron or stainless steel skillet, 8- by 8-inch baking dish
Make-Ahead and StorageThe gratin can be prepared through step 4 one day in advance. Let cool, cover, and refrigerate. When ready to cook, proceed with step 5 of the recipe.
The finished gratin and leftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days. Reheat in the microwave or in an oven-proof dish at 400ºF (205ºC) until heated through, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyMy husband, Lewis, is very particular about chocolate cake. He will reject slices of devil’s food cake, Texas sheet cake, and even cute little chocolate cupcakes because they are not chocolatey enough for him. The only chocolate cake he will happily eat is the flourless kind: rich and pleasantly bittersweet, with crisp edges and a fudgy interior that comes from folding melted chocolate into a mixture of whole eggs and sugar that have been whipped until thick and pale.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyAs intimidating as that sounds, making an excellent flourless chocolate cake is actually quite simple. With a few tips and tricks—and a foolproof recipe from our Birmingham, Alabama-based test kitchen colleague Melissa Gray—it’s possible to make a restaurant-quality dessert at home whenever you want. Here’s how.
4 Tips for Making the Best Flourless Chocolate CakeMelt the chocolate gently. One of the easiest ways to melt chocolate is to place it in a heatproof bowl that’s just large enough to nest in a saucepan of simmering water. The steam from the water gently melts the chocolate, while avoiding higher temperatures that can cause it to overheat, seize, and become grainy. Just be careful not to drip any water into the chocolate, as that will also cause the chocolate mixture to break.
Use a blend of bittersweet chocolate, espresso powder, and unsweetened cocoa powder. For a cake with bold chocolate flavor, Stuedeman uses a trio of bittersweet chocolate that’s at least 60% cacao, instant espresso powder, and unsweetened cocoa powder. The espresso powder, while not chocolate itself, has similar roasted and bitter characteristics that enhance the chocolate’s fruity notes and, together with the unsweetened cocoa powder, give the cake a robust depth of flavor. (Feel free to experiment with chocolates that have different cacao percentages, but keep in mind that using something with a lower cacao percentage, like milk chocolate, which can range from 30 to 50% cacao, may result in a sweeter cake.)
Serious Eats / Fred Hardy
Whip the eggs and sugar until they ribbon. It's important to beat the eggs and sugar together until they’re pale and thick—what bakers call the “ribbon” stage, as the batter is sturdy enough to leave a ribbon-like trail that slowly sinks back into the rest of the batter when the beaters are lifted. This gives the cake its rich yet delicate texture, as the properly whipped egg foam contains many tiny air bubbles that help aerate the cake while also providing structure.
Use a springform pan. Because the cake is so delicate, it’s best to bake it in a springform pan, which will allow you to easily unmold the cake without accidentally wrecking it. And if transferring the cake to a serving platter feels too daunting, you can serve the cake on the pan base.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F (175ºC). Using baking spray, coat the interior of a 9-inch springform pan; line bottom of pan with a parchment paper round and the sides with a separate parchment strip; set aside.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyFill a medium saucepan with water to a depth of 1 inch and bring to a boil over medium-high; reduce heat to a simmer over medium-low. In a medium-size heatproof bowl, combine chocolate, butter, espresso powder, and salt, and place over saucepan of simmering water. Cook, stirring frequently, until chocolate mixture is melted and smooth, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove from heat, being careful not to drip any water into the melted chocolate. Whisk in cocoa powder and vanilla extract until combined and smooth; set aside.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyIn the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine eggs and sugar. Whisk on medium-high speed until mixture is pale, falls off the whisk attachment in thick ribbons (they should slowly sink back into the batter) and has increased by about 1/3 in volume, 5 to 7 minutes. (Alternatively, an electric hand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment can be used to whip the eggs and sugar.) Using a flexible spatula, fold chocolate mixture into eggs gradually until just combined and no streaks remain. Gently scrape chocolate batter into prepared pan, using a small offset spatula to evenly spread and smooth the top if necessary.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyBake until top is dry and a wooden toothpick inserted near center of cake comes out with a few moist crumbs, about 25 minutes. Let cool in pan on a wire rack for 30 minutes. Run a small offset spatula or butter knife around edges of cake to loosen, if necessary; remove pan sides, and discard strips of parchment. Let cake cool completely on pan base on wire rack, about 1 1/2 hours. Using a large offset spatula, gently loosen cake from pan base and carefully transfer cake to a plate, removing and discarding parchment round. Using a fine-mesh sieve, dust cake with additional cocoa powder. Serve with sweetened whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, if desired.
Serious Eats / Fred HardySpecial Equipment9-inch springform pan, parchment paper, medium saucepan, stand mixer, wire rack, fine-mesh sieve
NotesThe cake can also be dusted with confectioners’ sugar.
Make-Ahead and StorageOnce cooled, the cake can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days or refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
The cake can be tightly wrapped in plastic and frozen for up to 1 month. To thaw, let sit in refrigerator overnight.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeNo dish reminds me of my home state of Kansas—and the Midwest in general—more than a bierock (pronounced BEER-ock). Like so many Midwestern foods, it’s undoubtedly modest fare: a round bread roll (usually fist-sized or a little larger) made with tender, enriched bread and filled with beef, onions, and cabbage. “But wait,” I hear you say, “That’s a runza!” In truth, “bierock” is the more common designation in Kansas, while “runza” is usually attributed to Nebraska, but these buns go by many names, including krautburgers, pirozhki, and fleischbrok (with countless spelling differences and pronunciations for each variation). They can all be traced back to an expansive ethnoreligious community of Volga German Mennonites who have been sharing and blending their traditions in the American Heartland for over a century and a half. As a Kansan and descendant of that group, I’d like to present my case for the humble bierock.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeA Brief History of BierocksRunzas are identical to bierocks except in shape; they tend to be oblong, while bierocks are circular. We can owe the popularity of the “runza” moniker to a Nebraska-based fast food chain of the same name. Runza restaurants have reached a cult favorite status in Nebraska (with a few locations in surrounding states), to the point of warranting a campaign stop from vice presidential candidate Tim Walz earlier this year. Although Walz asserted, “Don’t call it anything else except for runza,” the term is actually a genericization. Runza’s founder, Sally Everett, coined the term, and her family trademarked it shortly after opening the chain’s first location in Lincoln, Nebraska, in 1949.*
“Bierock,” on the other hand, likely evolved from the Russian word “pirog” (literally: pie), which encompasses a category of baked yeast breads or pastries stuffed with sweet or savory fillings. It probably entered the Mennonite lexicon in the 18th century, when a group from Polish Prussia settled along the banks of the Volga River in Russia and present-day Ukraine. They lived there along with other German immigrants, which led to the region’s population being classified as Volga Germans.
Serious Eats / Debbie Wee
According to Norma Jost Voth’s Mennonite Foods & Folkways From South Russia, Volume II, these newly Russian Mennonites were skilled agriculturalists as well as pacifists, and Catherine the Great’s government had put out an appealing offer: farm the land in exchange for religious freedom and dispensation from military service. They lived there until that promise was revoked in the 1870s, triggering a wave of Volga German immigration to the United States. They primarily settled on the plains of Kansas, Nebraska, and North and South Dakota, where many continue to farm wheat, corn, and cattle today.
I grew up in one of these farming communities in Southwestern Kansas, eating the dishes that Mennonites had assimilated and evolved during their migrations throughout Europe, like kommst borscht (no beets involved), peppernuts (similar to German pfeffernüsse flavored with anise oil), and, of course, bierocks. If you look, you can pinpoint a few of the reasons behind bierocks’ longevity in Mennonites’ (and other Midwesterners’) diets. First, bierocks are relatively inexpensive to make, as the cabbage supplements some of the meat, which can be pricey. Second, a large quantity of them can be made with a relatively small batch of bread. Lastly, because they’re self-contained, they’re easy to pack for long days during harvest season. In our times, they also have the added benefit of freezing and reheating incredibly well.
Serious Eats / Debbie Wee
*Note: It’s rumored that Everett used her family’s nickname for the buns, which was based on the word for “belly,” referring to the buns’ rounded shape, in a blended dialect called Low German. Many Mennonites still speak Low German (also known as Plautdietsch), but fewer write with it, and I could not find strong evidence to verify the translation. Instead, a Low German-speaking Mennonite friend confirmed that it sounded similar to “rund,” or the Low German word for round.
The Key Techniques for Making Excellent BierocksSome sects of religious Mennonites limit their use of modern technologies—including the internet—which I think has contributed to the lack of consistency around how we talk about traditional bierocks, their variations, and how to make them. For that reason, the recipe I’m sharing here is my perfect version of the Kansan Mennonite bierocks I ate growing up. It started from a technique I developed as a teen when I sold homemade bierocks in my small town to earn pocket money during high school. I also went to the source and consulted community cookbooks with recipes aggregated from Mennonites in my hometown and across the country.
Most of their recipes call for straightforward fillings made only of ground beef, onion, and cabbage (sometimes sauerkraut), seasoned with salt and pepper. I recreated a seasoning salt and added paprika, garlic powder, and onion powder for extra flavor while staying close to tradition. Many simply call for “bread dough” to wrap the filling, and these days, it’s common to use a thaw-and-bake white bread dough from the grocery store, like Rhodes brand, for a weeknight shortcut.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeI vastly prefer the taste and consistency of homemade white bread, thoroughly enriched with sugar, milk, butter, and eggs. Not only do these ingredients add sweetness and richness to the flavor of the bread, but they create a more tender, delicate crumb. The sugar holds onto moisture in the dough and delays the development of gluten. The fat from the dairy and eggs further inhibits gluten development by coating the protein molecules, which prevents them from linking together. I also specifically developed this dough to be soft but not tacky, making it easy to work with while rolling and forming. Here are three more tips I’ve found for making the best bierocks.
The Best Way to Shape BierocksThe best bierocks have a bread-to-filling ratio that looks roughly equal when sliced in half after baking. They have meat and cabbage in every bite and are wrapped with enough dough to make a uniform layer of sweetened, fluffy bread. Even the most perfectly proportioned bierock can fall flat (metaphorically and literally) if it’s not shaped well, though. At this point, most Mennonite recipes direct the reader to simply roll the dough out and fill it without extraneous details regarding measurements or how to do it. I have, therefore, worked through a decade of misshapen, deflated, and holey bierocks to find my favorite way to form them.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeThe first essential shaping step is rolling. The most common problem I have encountered (both in my own kitchen and with bierocks others have made) is a tough, bready knot in the bottom of the roll. This happens when the dough is hand-pressed or not rolled out enough, yielding a dense seam where the thick edges are pressed together. Stretching the dough too thin, on the other hand, makes it prone to tearing and causes a lumpy, unsightly top when pulled over the filling. The best method I’ve found is a compromise between the two: keep the center of each dough round about as thick as a storebought flour tortilla, then slightly increase the pressure as you roll out toward its edges. The gradual tapering around the diameter helps create an even bottom seam while preserving enough dough in the center for a smooth, rounded top after it is sealed and flipped. Plenty of filling (almost a cup per roll) also helps support the bun from the inside to keep it from collapsing.
As for closing up the buns, it may be tempting to try and smush all the edges together over the filling—it’s even how I was taught to do it—but this approach can be hit-or-miss. A crammed-together seal is much more likely to cause the tough, doughy bottoms I mentioned above. For better, more consistent results,I recommend taking the time to pleat the edges one by one, a technique inspired by the same one used to seal Chinese dumplings like xiao long bao. This method allows you to add just a little dough to the seam with each pinch and yields a uniform bottom after baking. Resist the urge to poke holes to release any air you might feel inside the closed bierocks—it won’t be noticeable when the bun proves and expands while cooking. The final egg wash step on the uncooked rolls adds a glossy, deep golden finish.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeCook Out the MoistureMake sure to cook out any excess liquid when preparing the filling, particularly if you’re changing it up with moisture-rich ingredients like mushrooms or sauerkraut. You want to use a pan with a wide surface area to facilitate evaporation. Though a 12-inch sauté pan or cast iron skillet will work especially well, you could also use a braiser or large Dutch oven. This recipe uses water to help quickly tenderize the cabbage, but you should cook and stir until the cabbage is wilted and tender and there is no visible liquid in the bottom of the pan. Excessive moisture can make the soft bread soggy, especially when reheating.
Experiment With Your FillingThis recipe is for a Mennonite-style of bierocks, and it's the version you’ll typically find in small towns throughout Kansas today. Once you have the technique down, though, feel free to switch it up! Bierocks are great canvases for creative fillings. Cheese is a common but nontraditional addition (I didn’t encounter it until I heard about Runza restaurants as an adult), but you can stir your choice of shredded or cubed cheese into the cooled filling or add a little into each bun before you shape it. You can also change up the type of meat. Try swapping in ground turkey or thinly sliced steak, and replacing some (or all) of the cabbage with sauerkraut or other vegetables like sliced peppers or broccoli. Adding spices like taco seasoning and cotija for a Tex-Mex style, or use Italian herbs, a big spoonful of tomato paste, and shredded mozzarella for pizza-inspired bierocks. There’s no right or wrong way—just the most delicious way for you. Just be sure to aim for six cups of cooked filling to suit this recipe’s batch of bread.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeHow to Serve BierocksI like my bierocks with a big swipe of yellow mustard on each bite, but they’re also fantastic with whole grain, spicy brown, or Dijon mustard. Ketchup is another common dipper, but you could also branch out with barbecue sauce, steak sauce, or even brown gravy. Or, just eat them as-is!
For the Dough: In a 4-cup liquid measuring cup or medium bowl, whisk milk, water, sugar, butter, and egg until smooth and sugar is dissolved.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeIn the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment, combine flour, yeast, and salt and mix on low speed until combined, about 20 seconds. With the mixer running on low speed, pour liquid mixture into the flour in a slow, steady stream. Continue mixing until a shaggy dough forms, stopping to scrape the sides of the bowl with a flexible spatula or dough scraper as needed, 2 to 3 minutes. If dough is excessively dry and dry flour remains, add water, 1 tablespoon at a time, mixing for 30 seconds to 1 minute after each addition, until all flour is hydrated and incorporated. Once no visible flour remains and dough is fairly cohesive, increase mixer speed to medium and knead until dough is smooth, elastic, and pulls away from sides of bowl, about 8 minutes.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeTransfer dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead by hand to form a smooth ball, about 1 minute. Lightly grease a large bowl with nonstick cooking spray. Place dough seam-side down into bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let rise at room temperature until dough is doubled in size, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeFor the Filling: While dough proofs, heat oil in a 12-inch cast iron skillet or straight-sided stainless steel sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add beef and onion and cook, breaking up meat and stirring often with a wooden spoon, until beef is browned, onion is just tender, and any moisture in the pan has cooked off, 12 to 15 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and stir in salt, pepper, paprika, garlic powder, and onion powder until well incorporated.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeAdd cabbage to pan a handful at a time, stirring between additions to combine. When all cabbage has been added, pour in water and stir to scrape up any browning on bottom of skillet. Continue cooking, stirring often, until liquid is evaporated and cabbage is wilted and tender with a slight bite, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat, season to taste, and let filling cool at room temperature, at least 20 minutes or up to 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeFor the Bierocks: Once dough is proofed, adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and preheat to 350°F (175ºC).Line two 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Using your hands, gently press dough to deflate it and transfer to a lightly floured work surface. Using a bench scraper or sharp knife, quarter the dough, then cut each quarter in half so you have 8 pieces of dough weighing about 105g each. (See notes.) Shape each piece roughly into a ball and set aside. Cover loosely with a clean kitchen towel or plastic wrap to keep dough from drying on top.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeWorking with 1 dough ball at a time, use a rolling pin to shape into an 8-inch round, rolling from the center outward and lightly increasing pressure toward the edges so edges are slightly thinner than the middle. (Dough should be soft and pliant; if it recoils while rolling, let it rest for 5 minutes before continuing.) Place 3/4 cup of cooled filling in a rounded mound in center, leaving a border of at least 1 inch around edges.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeGently bring edges of dough over filling; pleat edges of dough repeatedly, pinching the edge closed after each pleat until the entire bierock is sealed in a cinched purse shape. Pinch and twist top to seal, gently pressing down on the top to flatten slightly.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeePlace bierock, smooth-side down, into the cupped palm of your hand and, using your other hand, rotate bierock, putting gentle pressure on its sides as you turn, to shape into a rounded bun. Turn bierock over and place it seam-side down on parchment-lined baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough, placing 4 evenly spaced bierocks on each pan.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeAllow bierocks to rest until puffy and dough bounces back slightly when touched, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk egg and water until smooth. Using a pastry brush, lightly brush top and sides of each bierock with egg wash.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeBake until tops are deep golden brown, 25 to 27 minutes, rotating the trays top-to-bottom and back-to-front halfway through baking. Transfer to a wire rack to cool for 5 minutes, then serve with mustard or other condiments of choice.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeSpecial EquipmentStand mixer with dough hook attachment, 12-inch cast iron skillet or straight-sided sauté pan, 2 rimmed half-sheet pans, rolling pin, pastry brush, wire rack
NotesIf you live in a particularly dry climate, you may need additional water to hydrate the bread dough. If a shaggy dough does not form and visible dry flour remains after the initial 3-minute mix, add 1 tablespoon of water at a time and mix for 30 seconds to 1 minute between additions until a ragged dough forms.
If you want smaller, snack-sized bierocks, split dough into 12 pieces (about 70g or 2 ounces each), roll to 7-inch rounds, and use 1/2 cup filling per round. Bake them 6 to a pan, evenly spaced, for 20 to 25 minutes.
For log-shaped runzas, roll each dough portion into a long oval (about 8 inches long and 6 inches wide). Distribute beef and cabbage mixture along center of oval and seal by pinching edges into a long seam above filling.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe filling can be made up to 2 days ahead of time and refrigerated in an airtight container. Baked bierocks can be stored in an airtight container or zip-top bag for up to 5 days in the refrigerator. They can also be individually wrapped in aluminum foil, placed in a zip-top bag, and frozen for up to 3 months.
To reheat, place a foil-wrapped bierock, with the foil opened slightly to allow steam to escape, on a baking sheet and bake in a 325°F (165ºC) oven or toaster oven until heated through, about 10 to 15 minutes from refrigerated or 40 to 45 minutes from frozen.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariPersian cuisine is famous for its slow cooked meat braises. For centuries, braises have been an integral and expansive class of dishes within the Persian cookery landscape. The Persian word for a meat braise is khoresh (also called khoresht). There is a wide range of Persian meat braises incorporating different types of meat, vegetables, fruit, nuts, grains, beans, and legumes, as well as some requiring short-lived seasonal ingredients, and there are also many regional specialties.
Khoresh-é-ghormeh-sabzi, or simply ghormeh-sabzi, is the most famous and popular Persian meat braise. Some refer to it as the national khoresh of Iran. Although a bit time consuming, it is a relatively simple dish to make. Chunks of browned lamb or beef and aromatic onions and turmeric are first gently braised, then a pan-fried mixture of several finely chopped herbs is added to the pot along with kidney beans and whole Persian dried limes, and the gentle cooking continues. The result is tender chunks of meat in a luscious, thick sea of deep green herbs dotted with red kidney beans and softened brown Persian dried limes. The dish is traditionally served with rice and sometimes with tadigh.
Thanks to Iranian-American NASA astronaut Jasmin Moghbeli, ghormeh sabzi gained recent fame as the first traditional Persian dish ever served in space during a NASA mission. In February 2024, toward the end of her 199-day stay aboard the International Space Station, Moghbeli served and shared the iconic dish with her six fellow crewmates. She then posted the following message on her social media: “This weekend, I shared one of my favorite Persian dishes with my #Exp70 crewmates—ghormeh-sabzi! Of course, we ate it in the traditional way with rice. However, unfortunately, there was no tadigh.”
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariThere are two ingredients that are essential for a successful ghormeh-sabzi. This dish is simply not the same without fenugreek leaves. By themselves, fenugreek leaves are slightly bitter, but once cooked along with other aromatics and herbs, they take on a subtle bitter-sweet flavor and a pleasing and unique aroma that fills the entire house. The second key element of this dish is dried Persian limes, known as Limoo-Omāni. They add a unique musty (in a good way!), aged sourness to the dish. Luckily, both of these two key ingredients are relatively easy to obtain in North America and Europe.
The Etymology and History of Khoresh-e-Ghormeh-SabziThe Persian word for any meat braise is khoresh aka khoresht. The specific name of this particular khoresh is a compound word, ghormeh-sabzi. The word ghormeh—a borrowed word from Ottoman Turkish language—has been present in the Persian culinary vocabulary for centuries. It used to refer to an early meat preservation technique in which deboned chunks of meat, after having been partially cooked in a little salted water, were placed in goatskin sacks or in clay vessels filled with animal fat. Later the term was used to refer to roasting small chunks of meat. Such preserved or roasted meat was then used as an ingredient in various dishes. The culinary meaning of the word sabzi is green herbs. Putting it all together, khoresh-é-ghormeh-sabzi, or simply ghormeh-sabzi, refers to a meat braise with green herbs.
Although there are anecdotal references to ghormeh-sabzi having been around for thousands of years, it is more likely that the dish is only a few hundred years old. The earliest known documented recipes for this dish are in a few surviving Persian cookbooks published approximately between 1835 and 1883.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariKey Ingredients in Khoresh-e-Ghormeh-SabziPersian Dried LimesPersian dried lime, also known as Limoo-Omani, are Persian limes (Citrus × latifolia) that have gone through a simple preservation and drying process. Whole fresh limes are briefly blanched in a salt brine solution before being laid out to dry in the sun for several weeks. Despite its simplicity, the process of drying limes under the sun causes the limes to undergo a complex transformation: The dehydration of limes enables the interior tissue to ferment, yielding a complex and unique flavor profile characterized by a pleasant sour and citrusy flavor along with an aged, earthy, umami flavor.
Dried limes were first developed in Oman, hence their Persian name Limoo-Omani (limoo is the Persian word both for limes and lemons). While dried limes are used for cooking in different countries of the Persian Gulf region, they are primarily identified with Persian cuisine. In the Middle East, it's common to add whole limes to soups and stews. Unlike the immediate acidic kick of fresh limes, the complex flavors of dried lime need to be unveiled. The dried limes are often pricked a few times and then tossed into the pot. As the cooking liquid penetrates the limes, they impart a refreshing tartness and an intriguing depth of flavor to the dish.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariYou will find whole dried limes as small as a chestnut and as large as an apricot. They also come in a range of colors from light brown to blackish brown—for this dish, I prefer the lighter colored ones, which have a more delicate sourness. Dried limes are also available in ground form, which is often used as a condiment and sprinkled on cooked and raw dishes right before they are served.
Although whole dried limes are becoming more and more popular in the West, and you might find them in some well-stocked supermarkets, they are always readily available in brick-and-mortar Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, Indian, and Turkish markets. They are also available through several trusted mail-order and online merchants that specialize in Persian ingredients, including Kalamala Persian Grocery, Sadaf, Persian Basket, and Tavazo. They can also be ordered from spice houses such as Penzeys, Kalustyan’s, and The Spice House–and of course on Amazon.
FenugreekFenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) is an annual plant. Its leaves consist of three obovate leaflets (teardrop-shaped with stems attached to the tapering end). Its leaves (fresh or dried) have been used as an herb and its seeds as a spice since ancient times.
Fresh fenugreek leaves are slightly bitter, but once cooked, they take on a subtle bittersweet flavor and a uniquely pleasing aroma that fills the kitchen—often lingering for days. It is the herb that defines not only this dish but also the most famous egg-centric Persian dish, kookoo-sabzi.
Fresh fenugreek becomes available for a short period between late spring and midsummer. It is very difficult to find fresh fenugreek in North America or Europe. Some specialty Persian, Afghani, or Indian markets may carry it during its short growing season. However, practically speaking, all Persian home cooks use dried crushed fenugreek leaves for this dish, and so should you.
It is a powerful dried herb, so a small amount goes a long way. Dried crushed fenugreek leaves are readily available these days in the spice section of many well stocked supermarkets, as well as in the same sources listed above for dried Persian lime. Please note that this dish uses fenugreek leaves, not fenugreek seeds, which is a popular spice in Indian cookery.
Other Green herbsIn addition to fenugreek leaves, this dish uses a large amount of several other fresh green herbs, including flat leaf parsley, cilantro (coriander), and some variety of leeks or chives. Although most Persian home cooks use dried crushed fenugreek leaves, they generally try to use fresh versions of the other herbs. Flat leaf parsley and cilantro are typically available in North American and European supermarkets year around.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariWith regards to leeks or chives, the preferred variety is fresh Persian leeks (Allium ampeloprasum ssp. persicum), which are often available year round in specialty Persian, Afghani, and Middle Eastern markets. If you do not have access to such specialty markets, you can easily substitute an equal amount (in weight) of chives, or green parts of scallions, or the middle third section of regular common leeks. The amounts of herbs needed shown in the list of ingredients is the weight of the leaves and most tender and short stems after the longer and tough stems have been removed.
The MeatGhormeh-sabzi is typically made with either lamb or beef. Between lamb and beef, if you have the option, I recommend lamb. The best cuts of lamb for Persian-style braising are tougher cuts like leg, shoulder, neck, and shank. My everyday go-to cut for braising is leg of lamb. It is a hardworking muscle that has enough collagen (intramuscular fat and connective tissue) that breaks down during a moist, long, slow cooking process, creating a texture that is spoon tender. If you decide to go with beef, the best cuts of beef for braising include chuck, bone-in short rib, shanks, and as a treat, oxtail.
How to Serve Khoresh-e-Ghomeh-SabziOnce ready, khoresh-e-ghormeh-sabzi is normally transferred to a large serving dish and served family-style. Like practically all other Persian khoreshes, khoresh-e-ghormeh-sabzi is best served as a main dish with Persian steamed white rice (chelow), along with a few pieces of Persian crunchy rice (tahdig). Alternatively, it can be accompanied by a variety of Persian flatbreads (e.g., lavāsh, sangak, tāftoon, babari) or another type of flat bread such as pita.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariWhen served as part of a complete meal, a side of Persian Shirāzi salad (chopped cucumber, tomatoes, and red onions), Persian māst-o-khiār (chopped or grated cucumber, yogurt, crushed dried mint leaves), and/or the ubiquitous Persian plate of fresh herbs called sabzi-khordan (any combination of fresh mint, tarragon, basil, watercress, scallion, radish) is customary, but not necessary.
In a medium bowl, soak red kidney beans in room temperature water to cover by 1-inch with 1 teaspoon of salt for at least 30 minutes or until ready to use.
Serious Eats / Liz VoltzIn a separate medium bowl, soak whole Persian dry limes in room temperature water for 30 minutes or until ready to use; place a plate on top of bowl to ensure limes are submerged.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariSeason meat all over with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. In a large Dutch oven or pot, heat 2 tablespoons oil or ghee over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add seasoned meat to the saucepan in a single layer. Cook, turning occasionally until meat is well browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer meat to a plate and set aside.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariLower heat to medium, and once rendered fat in pan is shimmering, add onions and cook until translucent and edges have turned golden brown, 7 to 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariSprinkle 1 teaspoon turmeric over the sautéed onions, stir thoroughly and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariAdd 2 1/2 cups of water to the saucepan, bring to boil, while scraping the bottom of the saucepan to free up all brown bits left.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariAdd seared meat. Stir to mix, return to boil, then reduce heat to medium low to maintain a simmer; cover and cook for 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariMeanwhile, prepare the herbs. Wash all fresh herbs and leeks or chives well. Spread over a clean kitchen towel and gently roll to remove excess water. Alternatively, use a salad spinner to achieve the same results.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezHarvest the leaves and most tender stems from the bundles of parsley and cilantro (If you wish, save the scraps and longer tough stems for other purposes such as making broth.) Chop all fresh herbs (including chives or leeks) as finely as you can. The finer you chop them the more luscious the ghormeh-sabzi will be. Feel free to use a food processor to chop the herbs. However never chop the chives or leeks in the food processor by themselves—if you do, they will turn into an unpleasant mushy mess. Either mix them with the parsley and cilantro to be chopped in the food processor or simply chop them separately the good old fashioned way with a sharp knife on a cutting board.
After the meat has cooked for 30 minutes, drain the kidney beans and add to the pot, stir to combine and cover. Adjust the heat so the content of the pot is simmering gently. Cook for another 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariMeanwhile, in a large frying pan, heat 1/4 cup ghee or oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Reduce heat to medium. Add half of the chopped herb mixture. Carefully stir to mix well with oil. Cook until well coated and beginning to cook down, about a minute. Add the rest of the chopped parsley-cilantro-leek mixture. Cook, stirring often until cooked down for 10 minutes, then sprinkle with crushed dried fenugreek leaves. Continue cooking, stirring often, until the herbs are very wilted and are a dark green color but not burned, about 10 more minutes. The herbs are ready when they feel a bit dry but when pressed with the back of a spoon exude shiny bright green oil, and you can smell a strong savory aroma. This is a crucial step that could take 20 to 25 minutes total. Be patient.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariDrain whole Persian dried limes with a sharp instrument, such as a tine of a fork or tip of a sharp knife) make 6 or 7 small holes in the outer skin of each lime.
After the meat has cooked for 1 hour, add the fried herbs and the pierced dried limes to the meat and gently stir. Cover and adjust heat as needed to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, gently stirring every 20 minutes until the meat and beans are tender and the stew is thickened, 60 to 80 minutes.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariBy this time, the whole Persian dry limes should be quite soft, plump, and juicy–full of tangy, sourish, earthy liquid. With a slotted spoon or small strainer, lift one of the whole Persian dry limes and very gently press down on it with the back of a fork without breaking the exterior skin, letting some of the interior liquid drip into the stew. Repeat with another 3 or 4 of the limes. Gently swirl the pot. Taste. If you can’t sense enough of the tangy, sourish, earthy flavor of the limes, repeat with the rest of the limes. It is OK if the exterior skin of the limes breaks in this process—just don’t let the seeds get into the stew as they are a bit bitter if chewed.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariWhen ready, ghormeh-sabzi should be quite thick, be a very dark green color with red kidney beans, chunks of tender meat, and the limes poking out of the sea of the green herbs, tasting noticeably tangy, with the unique aroma of cooked fenugreek having filled the kitchen. Season to taste with salt as needed and serve.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariSpecial EquipmentLarge Dutch oven or pot, large sautée pan
NotesYou may substitute canned beans for the dried beans. Since they are precooked, they do not need as much cooking time in the braise liquid. Simply add the cup of canned beans during the last 30 minutes of cooking.
Some Persian, Afghani, and Middle Eastern specialty markets also carry both frozen and dry pre-mixed Ghormeh-Sabzi herb mixtures.
Make-Ahead and StorageThere are two aspects of ghormeh-sabzi that contribute to its slightly lengthy preparation time: the cooking of the meat and the preparation of the herbs. Steps 3-7 of the recipe can easily be done a day or two ahead of time. Store the resulting partially cooked meat in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Steps 8 and 10 can also be done a day or two ahead of time. Store the fully fried herb mixture in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
Like many other Persian khoreshes, ghormeh-sabzi can be made a day or two ahead of time as long as it is reheated gently. In fact, many Persian home cooks (including myself) believe that it tastes better on the second day.
Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container for up to a week. Reheat gently on the stovetop.
For longer storage, freeze the ghormeh-sabzi in an airtight container for up to 3 months. Thaw in the refrigerator before reheating gently on the stovetop.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe doldrums of winter may be upon us, but that doesn’t mean your kitchen should remain in stasis. As people who test kitchen equipment every day, we know that there’s always another kitchen upgrade around the corner that’ll make your workflows more efficient and enjoyable. Be it an espresso machine with all the bells and whistles or a rice cooker with plentiful options, there are eye-catching deals to grab at Amazon now that the holidays have quieted down and you can finally look ahead at new cooking projects. We found 18 of our tested favorites on sale for up to 50% off, including this leakproof Rubbermaid container set, an incredibly accurate Anova sous vide machine, a tried-and-true Lodge cast iron skillet, and more.
Breville Barista Express Impress Espresso MachineAmazonThe Barista Express Impress includes a built-in grinder, steam wand, an automatic dosing system, and a tamping lever that streamlines the espresso process for beginners and experts alike. During our tests, it pulled consistently flavorful shots back-to-back and the dosing system meant we didn’t have to manually weigh out the espresso puck every time. You can grab it for $250 off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonVitamix Immersion Blender 3-Piece SetAmazonThis immersion blender creates powerful vortexes to pull in food and has a plastic-tipped blade guard so you can use it with nonstick or enameled cast iron cookware without fear of scratching the cooking surface. With a total of five speeds, the Vitamix is able to smoothly puree celery soup and churn out velvety homemade mayo.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreLe Creuset Enameled Cast Iron 5.5-Quart Dutch OvenAmazonA favorite of ours for years, this Dutch oven truly stands the test of time. It’s in many of our editors’ own kitchens and is able to produce evenly cooked and tender foods, be it a roast, braise, or stew. The durable interior enamel is also easy to clean no matter what you’re cooking. Right now, it’s a whopping $120 off.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyKitchenAid Grain and Rice CookerAmazonThis rice cooker has a delayed start feature and a smart scale that automatically dispenses the ideal amount of water for each grain. Truly a “set-it-and-forget-it” rice cooker, it offers 21 cooking options ranging from pearled barley to pinto beans.
Serious Eats / Alexander HuangRubbermaid Brilliance Food Storage Containers, Set of 5AmazonThis food storage container set is impressively leakproof. During our tests, not a single drop of liquid escaped while the lid was on. The containers also resist odors and have clear walls so you’re able to quickly identify the contents.
Serious Eats / Eric KingAnova Culinary Precision Cooker ProAmazonThis 45%-off sous vide machine has a simple onboard display plus a phone app with plenty of tips and recipes. It’s also incredibly accurate and fast, heating a gallon of cold water in just 32 minutes and a gallon of room-temperature water in eight minutes.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreTramontina Professional Fusion 10-Inch Nonstick Frying PanAmazonWhile we generally avoid nonstick pans, we recommend not spending too much on one if you must have one in your cookware collection. This Tramontina pan is slick enough to smoothly release omelets and crepes. Right now, it’s 50% off.
Serious Eats / Donna CurrieCosori CAF-LI211 Lite 2.1-Quart Mini Air FryerAmazonDespite its small footprint, the Cosori air fryer packs a powerful heat. Its digital screen features straightforward settings and it easily produces crispy fries and crunchy chicken wings. We also like that you can set the temperature in 5-degree increments.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyLodge 10.25-Inch Cast Iron Pre-Seasoned SkilletAmazonThe Lodge cast iron skillet has been our top pick for years thanks to its impressive heat retention and distribution. From searing pork chops to a golden brown to baking evenly cooked cornbread, the Lodge excelled at all our tests. Plus, it’s only $20.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyZeppoli Classic Dish Towels, 15-PackAmazonOn sale for just under $2 apiece, these Zeppoli kitchen towels boast a 140% absorbency rate. They’re great for sopping up spills or holding onto hot pots and pans. They also don’t leave lint when drying dishes and can be thrown in the washer when they need to be refreshed.
Serious Eats / Henry WortockY YHY Pasta BowlsAmazonFor budget-friendly pasta bowls, these are a great pick. Their gently sloped sides keep sauces contained and their sleek design makes it a breeze to plate brunch for guests or weeknight dinner for yourself. They have a very similar size and shape to our pasta bowl winner from Le Creuset, but they’re a fraction of the price.
Serious Eats / Caroline LangeAnova Culinary Precision Vacuum Sealer ProAmazonAble to seal bags back-to-back without needing a refresh period, this vacuum sealer boasts a double-seal feature that stands up to freezer storage and high temperatures. It’s lightweight, easy to store, and will gently seal delicate foods without crushing them.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonGreenPan Elite 8-in-1 Programmable 6-Quart Electric Slow CookerAmazonSlow cooker technology has come a long way in the past few years, as is evident in our top pick from GreenPan. The metal, ceramic-coated inner pot heats up quickly and doesn’t take much elbow grease to clean. During our tests, it cooked tender beans and fall-apart pulled pork. It can slow cook, steam, simmer, keep warm, and sauté. The exterior also stays cool while it’s in use.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreInstant 4-in-1 Milk Frother and SteamerAmazonFor $38, this milk frother produces excellent foam and heats milk quickly. With four settings (cold foam, warm latte foam, warm cappuccino foam, and hot milk), this frother does a fair job of differentiating between latte and cappuccino foam.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonPeugeot Paris Pepper MillAmazonFor consistent and speedy pepper grinding, we recommend the Peugeot Paris pepper mill, which has a curved wooden body that’s comfortable to hold. It also looks great on the counter and is 40% off.
Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinKitchenAid KSMMGA Metal Food Grinder AttachmentAmazonIf you already have a KitchenAid stand mixer and want to get into grinding your own meats, we love this food grinder attachment. It’s sturdy and takes advantage of KitchenAid’s powerful motor to thoroughly grind big batches.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonJoyce Chen Carbon Steel WokAmazonIf you’re just starting out with wok cooking, this Joyce Chen carbon steel wok is an affordable option that will last you a while. It’s straightforward to pre-season before use, and sticky fried eggs glide around the surface without a problem. The wooden handle and helper handle kept our hands safe while we worked with it.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonOXO Brew Conical Burr Coffee GrinderAmazonFor an affordable burr coffee grinder, it doesn’t get much better than this OXO machine. It’s on sale for $75 and produces consistent grinds that will suit most coffee drinkers. The control dial also has clearly marked settings.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonWhy We’re the Experts* An Uong is a writer for Serious Eats. * An has been testing kitchen equipment for Serious Eats for two years. * She loves a good deal and spends her days rifling through kitchen gear sales.
Serious Eats / Julia EstradaThere's a dish for every mood, but sometimes an easy pasta recipe is exactly what you need. Sure, every now and then we love spending hours lingering over a perfect slow-cooked red sauce or hearty lasagna Napoletana, but there are also days when you need to get dinner on the table fast. For a delicious pasta dinner that's doable on a weeknight, check out 20 of our favorite quick and easy pasta recipes below. Whether you only have the most basic pantry staples on hand (olive oil, garlic, maybe a can of tomatoes), or you happen to have a tin of sardines, breadcrumbs, or a butternut squash, we have something that is just your speed.
Pasta c'Anciuova e Muddica Atturrata (Sicilian Pasta With Anchovies and Toasted Breadcrumbs)Serious Eats / Sasha MarxThis is an incredibly simple dish to make, with a huge savory-salty-sweet flavor payoff. It starts with onion and garlic gently cooked in olive oil until they just begin to soften. Anchovy fillets are added to the pan and allowed to dissolve before a large spoonful of Sicilian tomato estratto is folded into the mix.
Creamy Garlic PastaAmanda Suarez / Serious EatsAll you need for this simple pantry pasta is spaghetti, a head of garlic, some (good) extra-virgin olive oil, salt, a smidge of honey, a small amount of Parmigiano-Reggiano, and a lime (or lemon).
Pasta Con le Sarde (Sicilian Pasta With Sardines)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThis recipe features a fragrant sauce made from onions, fennel, raisins, pine nuts, anchovies, sardines, and saffron, topped with toasted and seasoned bread crumbs.
Pasta ai Funghi (Creamy Pasta With Mushrooms)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikShallots, garlic, white wine, and parmesan bring out the earthy flavors of mushrooms in this comforting all-weather pasta.
Cacio e Pepe (Spaghetti With Black Pepper and Pecorino Romano)Serious Eats / Julia EstradaA few technique tips will have you creating the easiest, creamiest, most delicious cacio e pepe at a moment's notice.
Pasta Alla Zozzona (Rigatoni With Sausage, Guanciale, and Egg Yolks)Serious Eats / Sasha MarxRigatoni alla zozzona is the decadent pasta mash-up of Roman amatriciana and carbonara, with a sausage twist.
Pasta With Butternut Squash and Sage Brown ButterSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThe hardest part about this dish is dicing the butternut squash. Otherwise, nutty browned butter, sage, and cheese do all of the heavy lifting.
Pasta chi Vruoccoli Arriminati (Sicilian Pasta With Cauliflower and Toasted Breadcrumbs)Serious Eats / Sasha MarxIn this recipe, cauliflower is cooked down into a savory-sweet sauce with Sicilian staples: anchovies, pine nuts, raisins, saffron, and toasted breadcrumbs.
Pasta Ai Quattro Formaggi (Creamy Four-Cheese Pasta)Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerChoose your four cheeses wisely for this bold, well-rounded, deeply flavorful, multi-layered, and complex cheesy pasta.
Pasta con la Bottarga (Pasta With Bottarga)Serious Eats / Sasha MarxThis aglio e olio variation puts the spotlight on Sardinia's famed salted mullet roe bottarga.
Pasta Cacio e Uova (Neapolitan Pasta With Eggs and Cheese)Serious Eats / Sasha MarxPasta cacio e uova, or cas' e ova in Neapolitan dialect, is a simple Campanian dish that can be most easily summarized as "meatless carbonara." Like carbonara, cas' e ova features a silky, temperature-sensitive sauce made with eggs and a mixture of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino Romano that coats al dente dried pasta.
Japanese Mentaiko Spaghetti (Pasta With Spicy Cod Roe and Butter Sauce)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis dish serves as a simple dinner or late night snack made of delicious, buttery noodles tossed with spicy cured roe and nori strips.
Bucatini all'AmatricianaSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineIn this recipe, quick pasta is smothered in a spicy tomato sauce with rich cured pork and tangy Pecorino Romano.
Shrimp Fra Diavolo (Shrimp and Pasta with Spicy Tomato Sauce)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikA simple technique and a pantry ingredient imbues this spicy Italian-American classic with rich shellfish flavor.
Spaghetti Puttanesca (Spaghetti With Capers, Olives, and Anchovies)Serious Eats / Melissa HomThis modern, classic Southern Italian pasta dish, flavored with garlic, anchovies, capers, olives, and tomatoes, is one of my favorite eat-it-by-myself meals—it's made 100% from pantry staples and it packs a powerful flavor punch.
Roman-Style Fettuccine With Alfredo SauceSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis recipe shows you how to make real-deal Roman fettuccine Alfredo with nothing more than butter and cheese.
Penne With Melted-Vegetable SauceSerious Eats / Liz ClaymanMade with vegetables that have been cooked until meltingly soft, this penne pasta dish is one of those great examples of what makes classic rustic Italian cooking so special: It makes the most of humble and unassuming ingredients, turning them into something downright delicious.
Penne With Hot-as-You-Dare Arrabbiata SauceSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis simple pasta dish is made with a sauce that's spicy enough to earn its "angry" moniker.
Spaghetti Aglio e Olio (Pasta in Garlic and Oil Sauce)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikFrom arrabbiata to marinara, alle vongole to puttanesca, each sauce begins by gently cooking garlic in oil. And that's why aglio e olio is the simplest, and most delicious of basic pasta dishes.
Crispy Baked Pasta With Mushrooms, Sausage, and Parmesan Cream SauceSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltIn this recipe, crumbled Italian sausage, mushrooms, shallots, garlic, a little bit of soy sauce, and a simple creamy sauce are combined with pasta and topped with crisp bread crumbs. All this makes a one skillet meal fit for a weeknight.
Serious Eats / Fred HArdyWinter can feel dark and dreary, but I have a soft spot for January and February. It’s the only time of year that’s cold enough for me to simmer something on the stove for several hours without turning my home into a sauna. This makes dinner prep much easier: Instead of racing around my kitchen at 6 p.m. trying to get dinner on the table in 30 minutes, I can leisurely start a soup, stew, or braise earlier in the day, then simply let it cook largely unattended. One of the easiest meals to prepare this way is Mississippi pot roast: a tangy, savory chuck roast typically made by slow cooking the meat with a packet of ranch seasoning, au jus gravy mix, a stick of butter, and a handful of jarred pepperoncini.
The dish reportedly has its roots in Ripley, Mississippi; according to Sam Sifton, the former deputy dining editor of the New York Times, Mississippi roast rose to fame after a woman named Robin Chapman shared her recipe with a friend, Karen Farese, who then contributed it to her church’s community cookbook. “By fits and starts at first, and more recently in droves, people began sharing the image and the recipe on Pinterest and Reddit, on Facebook and Twitter,” Sifton wrote in the New York Times in 2016. According to Google data, searches the term “Mississippi roast” have steadily risen over the past 14 years, with searches peaking in January 2022.
It’s no surprise that home cooks have taken to the roast: It’s exceedingly simple, and most iterations of the dish call for nothing more than chuck roast, a few shelf-stable packaged ingredients, and a slow cooker. Though store-bought products are handy in a pinch, we were curious to see how much more delicious a from-scratch version cooked on the stovetop could be. With that in mind, our Birmingham, Alabama-based test kitchen colleague Elizabeth Mervosh set out to develop the very best Mississippi pot roast recipe—one that doesn’t require much more effort than the original slow-cooker version, but is just as (if not even more!) flavorful. Here’s how she did it.
Sear Your Beef—but Halve It FirstSearing is one of the easiest ways to give meat flavor; the high heat initiates the Maillard reaction—a series of chemical reactions that occurs when heat transforms proteins and sugars in food, resulting in more complex flavors and aromas. One of the best reasons to cook this dish on the stovetop rather than in a slow cooker is that you can sear it (while some slow cookers have a sear function, not all do—and the sear function doesn't always work great on the ones that have it.) Because browning a three-pound piece of beef can be an unwieldy task, our recipe calls for cutting the roast into two steaks before searing it. Not only does this make the beef easier to work with, but it also speeds up the cooking time and, more importantly, maximizes the surface area for browning—and therefore flavor development.
Serious Eats / Fred HArdyAdd a Little GelatinFor a sauce with more body, Mervosh fortifies the broth with gelatin. It’s a trick that former Serious Eats editor Kenji and our current editorial director Daniel use in some recipes, including all-American beef stew and shepherd’s pie, to thicken sauces without drastically changing their flavor. “That’s always been my one hang-up with this dish: The beef is so rich, but the sauce usually has a watery texture,” Mervosh wrote in her testing notes for this recipe. A few teaspoons of powdered gelatin is all it takes to transform a soupy sauce into a velvety one that’s just thick enough to coat a spoon.
Don't Overcook ItAnother good reason we choose the stovetop over the slow cooker for this recipe is to mitigate the risk of overcooking the meat and making it tough and dry. A long, slow braise can yield tender meat, but it is possible to overcook your beef. “When stewing meat, you’re playing a racing game between two simultaneous processes," Kenji wrote in his beef stew recipe. "First is the conversion of connective tissues to gelatin. This softens the meat and makes it moister. On the other hand, muscle proteins are constantly contracting and squeezing out internal moisture. This hardens the meat and makes it tougher.” His solution, and Mervosh’s, is to crack the lid during cooking, which keeps the temperature consistent and prevents the stew from getting too hot.
Serious Eats / Fred HArdyRecreate the Flavors of Ranch With Buttermilk and Fresh DillInstead of ready-made ranch seasoning, we incorporate fresh dill and whole buttermilk (essential ingredients in classic ranch dressing) into the pot roast, which gives the dish a herbaceous, tangy flavor. We incorporate the buttermilk at the very end and, to prevent the dairy from curdling, we temper the dairy with some of the hot braising liquid. Curdling can happen when there’s a rapid temperature change, and tempering is a technique that helps minimize that: To temper, you whisk a small amount of hot liquid into cold dairy or eggs, warming them up, before stirring that tempered mixture back into a larger pot of hot liquid.
Serious Eats / Fred HArdyMississippi pot roast is a great winter dish no matter where you live, and with just a few tweaks, this easy meal can be even more delicious.
Adjust oven rack to lowest position, and preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). Place chuck roast, flat side down, on a cutting board; cut in half horizontally to create 2 steaks. Season all over with salt and black pepper. In a large Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Working with one piece at a time, sear chuck roast steaks until deeply browned on both sides, 5 to 8 minutes per side, reducing heat as needed to prevent overbrowning. Transfer chuck roast to a 9- by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet. Remove Dutch oven from heat, and carefully pour drippings into a small heatproof bowl to cool; discard.
Serious Eats / Fred HArdyWhile chuck roast browns, pour stock into a large bowl, and sprinkle with gelatin. Let stand until fully hydrated, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Fred HArdyAdd gelatin mixture, garlic, and dill to Dutch oven. Return chuck roast steaks and any accumulated juices to Dutch oven. Top roast with pepperoncini peppers. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cover, leaving the lid slightly cracked open (about 1/2-inch), and braise in oven until roast is fork-tender, 2 hours 45 minutes to 3 hours. Carefully transfer roast to a work surface; using 2 forks, shred into large pieces, discarding any big pieces of fat.
Serious Eats / Fred HArdyPlace Dutch oven with liquid over medium heat, and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring often, until slightly reduced, about 6 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in pepperoncini liquid.
Serious Eats / Fred HArdyIn a small bowl, whisk buttermilk and 1/2 cup hot braising liquid from Dutch oven until well combined. Whisk buttermilk mixture into remaining braising liquid in Dutch oven. Return shredded roast to Dutch oven, and stir to combine. Garnish with chopped dill.
Serious Eats / Fred HArdySpecial EquipmentLarge Dutch oven
Make-Ahead and StorageThe Mississippi roast can be stored in an airtight container and refrigerated for up to 4 days.To reheat, scrape off any solidified fat, then slowly reheat in a 300ºF (148ºC) oven or gently simmer over low heat until warmed through.
Leftover meat and braising liquid can be frozen in an airtight container for up to 3 months. Thaw overnight in fridge.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosIn Taiwan, where I live, one of the most beloved and novel features of our train system is the railway bento box. Known in Mandarin Chinese as biàn dang (便當), these boxed meals are sold exclusively at train stations or on the train itself, offering sustenance for tens of thousands of travelers daily. The lunch sets were originally inspired by Japanese bentos and first appeared in Taiwan during its Japanese colonial era in the early 20th century, when enterprising vendors sold them packed inside thin wooden boxes off of the train platforms. They became such a hit that in 1949, the Taiwan Railway Administration took matters into its own hands and started producing its own packaged meals.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezToday, every morning at 6 a.m., about 28,000 bento boxes are prepared at six central kitchens, an impressive choreography that moves approximately 10 million bentos each year. Official vendors branded with a dark blue Taiwan Railway logo sell the bentos at the stations, and on the trains, cart-pushing attendants hand out the boxes to hungry travelers. Selling for a bit less than $3.50 USD, each bento is a neatly packaged meal filled with an assortment of rice, vegetables, and a choice of protein.
When my parents were young, railway bentos were served in round stainless steel boxes, which could be dropped off for reuse afterward. The railway would clean and reuse the boxes, though the metal boxes were eventually phased out for plastic because people kept forgetting to return them. Today, these train meals remain a nostalgic symbol of the Japanese era, and are still a regular part of modern society.
Serious Eats / Deli Studios
The composition of a railway bento meal is straightforward yet well-balanced. At its core is a generous serving of white short-grain rice: sticky, absorbent, and perfect for soaking up sauces. Alongside the rice, you'll find a side of vegetables, typically steamed or lightly sautéed with minced garlic and a pinch of salt. There might be a braised egg or tofu as well, for heft. The centerpiece, however, is always the protein—sometimes chicken, fish, or tofu, but most often, it is a tender slab of fried and braised pork chop. Pork is a go-to protein for these boxes because it’s cheap and popular in Taiwan; at these central kitchens, roughly 15,000 pork chops are made each day.
Preparing the Pork: Why You Should Pound It ThinTaiwanese bentos are well balanced in that there aren’t copious amounts of just one ingredient. Having a massive slab of pork would throw off the ratio, and you’d need a fork and a knife to eat it, which isn’t the best set-up when you’re sitting on a moving train or quickly wolfing down lunch while waiting on the platform. Bento box pork chops have to be thin and light enough to pick up with chopsticks. The key is getting a small three to four-ounce slab of boneless pork loin and pounding it thinly with a meat tenderizer or the back of your knife until it’s about half-inch thick. (I tried making this recipe with a thicker slab; it was clunky and difficult to eat, and I wouldn’t recommend it.)
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosHow to Make Crisp, Juicy Pork Chops: Marinate, Dredge, and FryBecause it's a lunchbox staple that's meant to travel, one of the most important elements of this dish is its durability. Accomplishing that is a multi-step process: First, you marinate the pork, then coat it with starch, fry it, and finally, braise it.
It might seem counterintuitive to braise something deep-fried, but because frying creates air pockets in the coating, there are plenty of nooks and crannies in the crisp coating for the sauce to cling onto. A similar technique is used for dishes like General Tso’s chicken and orange chicken, where the crisp, breaded exterior helps the sauce adhere better.
But here, the exterior isn’t so much crispy as it is spongy. When the pork is braised, the crispy exterior transforms into a tender surface that holds up well after hours of travel and still tastes good even when it’s at room temperature.
Admittedly, braised pork chops are often overcooked in Taiwan, so I recommend only deep-frying for about two minutes before finishing it off in the braising liquid. Most vendors deep-fry all the meat ahead of time, let it rest for an hour, and just plop it into the simmering braising liquid when it’s time to serve. This way, the meat is served hot.
The Braising LiquidUsually, when I’m putting together a braising liquid for plain tofu and eggs, soy sauce makes up around 20% of the liquid. However, because the pork chop is already saturated with flavors from the marinade of soy sauce, rice wine, sugar, sesame oil, and white pepper, I dial down the soy sauce level to about 13%. This adjustment helps maintain a balanced flavor that’s savory without being overwhelming. The braising liquid is only for the breading, so the pork only really has to bathe in there for five to eight minutes for the coating to soak up the flavor. My recipe includes tangerine peel and Sichuan peppercorns as optional ingredients—while the pork chops are delicious without the spices, I find that they add a comforting warmth and depth.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosA Bento That's Uniquely TaiwaneseWhile the train bento may hail from Japan, it differs from Japanese-style bentos in several ways. Mostly, the ingredients in Japanese bentos are typically separated into individual compartments. Taiwanese bentos are layered: The rice, protein, and vegetables are on top of or directly next to one another. The flavors are also distinctly Taiwanese; proteins are almost always braised in soy sauce accented with sugar and star anise. Braised foods are a staple on the island—the cooking method is a cheap and efficient way to infuse flavor into meat, eggs, and tofu.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosThat said, there are also similarities between the two styles. Both maintain a balanced ratio of rice, greens, and protein. Most significantly, the rice is always a short-grain white rice, a variety introduced to Taiwan by Japanese colonists who spent a decade cultivating it. Its sticky, absorbent nature makes it perfect for soaking up the bold flavors of the braised pork and tender vegetables, be it eggplant, cabbage, or simple stir-fried greens.
Even if a trip to Taiwan isn’t in the cards, this recipe offers a taste of its unique railway culture. And it’s a dish that travels well, as proven by the tens of thousands of commuters who enjoy it every day.
In a large bowl, whisk soy sauce, rice wine, sugar, sesame oil, white pepper, five-spice powder, salt, garlic, and egg white to combine; set aside.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosPlace one pork chop on a clean cutting board and, using the ridged side of a meat mallet or blunt side of a Chinese cleaver, pound pork chops gently to 1/2-inch thickness. Set aside and repeat with remaining pork chops.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosAdd pork chops to the soy sauce mixture, massaging and tossing the pork to evenly coat with marinade. Cover tightly with plastic wrap or a lid and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 8 hours.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosWhen ready to cook, set a wire rack inside a rimmed baking sheet and line rack with a double layer of paper towels; set aside. Heat oil in a wok or medium-size Dutch oven over medium-high heat until oil reaches 350˚F (175˚C) on an instant-read or fryer thermometer.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosIn a wide, shallow dish, add sweet potato starch. Working with 1 pork chop at a time, dredge both sides in sweet potato starch, pressing gently to adhere. Gently shake off excess sweet potato starch and transfer to a large plate. Repeat with remaining chops.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosUsing tongs, add 2 pork chops to hot oil, gently sliding them in as close to the oil’s surface as possible to minimize splashing. Cook until pork is light golden brown, about 2 minutes, adjusting heat as needed to maintain an oil temperature of 350°F (175°C). Using tongs, transfer pork to prepared baking sheet. Using a skimmer or ladle, remove any leftover crumbs from oil. Repeat with the remaining pork chops.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosIn a medium pot, combine water, soy sauce, rice wine, sugar, ginger, garlic, scallions, star anise, tangerine or mandarin peel (if using), and Sichuan peppercorns (if using). Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and allow liquid to slow to a gentle simmer. Using tongs, carefully add 2 deep-fried pork chops, handling gently to ensure breading does not fall off. Cover and simmer until the pork chop is fully cooked and registers 145˚F (63˚C) on an instant thermometer, 4 to 8 minutes. Gently remove chop and set aside. Repeat with the remaining pork chops. Serve with cooked white rice.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosSpecial EquipmentMeat mallet or Chinese cleaver, wire rack, rimmed baking sheet, wok or Dutch oven, instant-read thermometer, tongs
NotesThick sweet potato starch can be purchased at most Chinese supermarkets. It is coarser than the finely ground kind, helping to create the right kind of crunchy coating on this pork; look for brands that specify between thick and thin sweet potato starch on the label to make sure you have the right type. If you can only find thin, you can use a spray bottle or your hands to lightly dampen the starch, then toss it with your hands so that it clumps up and creates small beads.
Make-Ahead and StorageOnce cooled, the pork chops can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. The chops can be eaten cold, at room temperature, or warm. If you would like to serve them warm, reheat in the microwave until warmed through.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerMy household’s seen a shift in the last few months. The fridge space once devoted to IPAs, Riesling, and swing-top bottles of pre-batched martinis has been overtaken. In their place: nonalcoholic beers, sparkling tonics, and, okay, there’s still a bottle of wine there, too. On evenings when my partner and I would have usually uncorked a bottle of Pinot Noir, now we’re more likely to fill our wine glasses with a zero-proof spritz or soda with a squeeze of lime. It’s not that we made a conscious decision to drink less; our habits just slowly morphed as we saw changes in our well-being, communed with sober friends, and found other options to unwind with. We haven’t boxed up our martini glasses for good, but alcohol no longer feels like the obligatory choice after a long day. Looking back, I realize just how freeing it’s been.
According to Gallup, we aren’t alone; younger adults in our age range (those 35 and under) are 10% less likely to drink regularly than the same age group two decades ago. Those who do drink consume fewer drinks weekly on average and are less likely to overdrink. People have all kinds of reasons for avoiding alcohol: mental and physical health, religion, lifestyle choices, pregnancy, avoiding hangovers, or simply not liking the taste. Non-drinkers are no longer relegated to the same old soft drinks or bland, dealcoholized lagers. Now, the nonalcoholic market is booming, and the energetic growth is only expected to increase in the coming years, according to forecasters at IWSR (a global data analytics firm specializing in the beverage industry). My fellow Serious Eats reviewers have already selected their favorites from the flourishing nonalcoholic beer and wine sectors, but what innovations are there for cocktail lovers? For that, I’ve got you covered.
I tried 18 nonalcoholic drinks to find the best ones: zero-proof spirits, apéritifs, functional elixirs, and ready-to-drink cocktails. While I liked almost all of the ones I tasted, I noticed that many cost as much or more than the mid-shelf alcohols and canned drinks they’re designed to replace. Considering how easy (and affordable) it can be to make nonalcoholic drinks at home, I only chose winners that were delicious and made sober drinking feel special. I also looked for beverages I’d be proud to tote to BYOB gatherings or serve to dinner guests. Ultimately, I found six must-haves for your booze-free bar cart, plus another seven worth trying.
The Winners, at a GlanceGhia was fruit-forward without being saccharine and had delightful notes of yuzu, ginger, and rosemary. It was complex but amiable, which made it as suitable for afternoon spritzes as for post-dinner nightcaps.
There was no better spritz ingredient than Wilfred’s. At first glance, it seemed like a straightforward Aperol replacement, but its sophisticated combination of orange, rosemary, clove, and gentian (a root with a vegetal, bittersweet flavor) gave it a distinct profile worth savoring.
The Three Spirit Livener was the life of the party. Its flavor profile was sweet, tart, and spicy with watermelon, hibiscus, ginger, and cayenne. It also had guayusa leaf extract (from a type of Amazonian holly tree), which added an energizing dose of caffeine to each serving.
The Le Fizz was similar to a sparkling Lambrusco wine but with flavors of blackcurrant, cooked strawberries, and smoky lapsang souchong tea. It was a favorite for sipping during dinner parties or pouring on holidays.
The Phony Negroni was undeniably the closest experience to a traditional cocktail. It was citrus-forward, sweet, and boldly bitter with a touch of bubbles—an absolute must-try for sober Negroni lovers.
Look up “crushable” in the dictionary, and there will be a picture of this spritz. It had all the lovely fruit and botanical flavors from the Ghia Original apéritif, plus an extra dose of citrus. Of all the prepared drinks in the lineup, I was most excited to have a can of the Lime & Salt Le Spritz waiting in the fridge after a long day.
The TestsTasting the drinks on their own and how the manufacturer suggested covered all of our bases.Serious Eats / Ashlee Redger Individual Taste Test: I prepared and tasted each drink according to the manufacturer’s serving suggestions. If the beverage was meant to be poured over ice or diluted with sparkling water, tonic, or ginger beer, I also tasted it on its own before mixing. * Group Taste Test (Winners Only):* I prepared my favorite drinks from the lineup for five friends. I asked them to record their tasting notes and preference ratings for each one.
What We LearnedNonalcoholic Drinks Came in Three CategoriesI liked nearly all of the nonalcoholic aperitifs I tried. Most of them are meant to be enjoyed with a mixer.Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerAll the zero-proof drinks I tried could be split into three classifications: nonalcoholic apéritifs, spirit alternatives, and functional beverages. The apéritifs were the biggest group and included the Ghia’s Original and Berry mixers as well as its two ready-to-drink cocktails and several Aperol- and Negroni-style substitutes (like Wilfred’s Aperitif and the St. Agrestis Phony Negroni). The apéritifs were all fruit-forward and sweetened (to various degrees). They also contained botanicals like herbs, teas, flowers, and spices for complexity. They could be sipped over ice or mixed with things like sparkling water, ginger ale, and/or fresh citrus juice for zero-proof cocktails. Many were citrus-heavy with an herbal undertone (like the Pentire Coastal Spritz Non-Alcoholic Aperitif), while some added compelling floral notes (like the Figlia Fiore Aperitivo and the De Soi canned sparkling apéritifs). Gentian root was a common and welcome addition to several of these beverages (like the Curious Elixirs No. 1 Pomegranate Negroni Sbagliato), as it added bitterness and a vegetal, licorice-y background note that leveled the apéritifs’ inherent sweetness.
I found something to appreciate about almost all the drinks in this category, though my least favorite was Lyre's Italian Orange Spirit. While the rest were nuanced and balanced with bitterness, Lyre’s attempted Campari dupe was maraschino cherry-sweet and reminded me of strawberry soda when combined with sparkling water. It wasn’t necessarily bad, but I expected more sophistication for almost $40 a bottle (at the time of writing).
Some of the nonalcoholic spirits (like the one shown here) were far too subtle.Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerSpirit alternatives were similar to liquors you might find on a bar shelf—just without the booze. They were also flavored with botanicals like citrus, oak, herbs, vegetables, and spices, often in the form of distillates and natural flavorings. Unlike the apéritifs, they had little or no sweetness. While dealcoholized versions of traditional liquors do exist (made via reverse distillation, where the alcohol is evaporated out after standard fermentation), all the spirit alternatives I tried for this review were made of water infused with natural flavorings. Unfortunately, they were mellow and underwhelming. The gin-like Lyre's Italian Dry London Spirit was mild on its own and near-impossible to detect when mixed with tonic. The spirit claimed to contain juniper, but I missed any note of it. Seedlip’s vegetal Garden 108 had a touch more flavor and was refreshing when mixed with a splash of sparkling water, but both it and Seedlip’s Spice 94 were overshadowed when combined with ginger ale (the manufacturer’s suggested mixer). Considering they cost about the same as a mid-shelf liquor and lent just a hint of flavor, I’d suggest skipping them and adding a drop of nonalcoholic aromatic bitters or muddling fresh herbs into mocktails instead.
I can't say I felt any of the purported effects of the functional nonalcoholic beverages I tried.Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerThe last category was functional beverages. These were drinks with ingredients designed to elicit energizing, calming, or other effects in the drinker. For example, the damiana shrub extract in the Curious Elixirs No. 2 Spicy Pineapple Ginger Margarita was meant to promote relaxation, and the L‑theanine in the Recess Zero Proof Mocktails was there to “ease tension and lighten the mood.” I liked all the beverages in this group, but I can’t say I noticed a big difference in my mood or general state after drinking any of them. Several (including Recess, De Soi, and the Curious Elixir Negroni Sbagliato) touted their functionality thanks to adaptogenic ingredients like schisandra berries. Now, you may be thinking, what in the world are these “adaptogens?” And what functions do they serve? Good question! Let’s get into it.
What Are Adaptogens, Anyway?I didn't add or subtract points for a drink's adaptogenic claims.Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerBefore we dive in, here’s a reminder that I am not a medical professional, and you should talk to your doctor if you have concerns before you consume any adaptogenic products. That said, I waded through countless studies and wellness-coded articles, only to conclude that it's all a bit…murky.
Adaptogens refer to specific plants that contain various active compounds thought to help the body deal with stress and maintain homeostasis. Lists of adaptogenic plants vary by source (one review named over a hundred examples), but most include things like ginseng, ashwagandha, and reishi mushrooms. By definition, these adaptogenic compounds work “nonspecifically,” meaning they normalize and balance bodily functions in general (affecting multiple systems at once) rather than through one specific mechanism. Different adaptogens also have different effects and work along different pathways. If that sounds vague, it’s because it is. Certain adaptogens have also been associated with more defined impacts like mood improvement, reduced inflammation, and caffeine moderation, but most recent studies involving adaptogens are industry-sponsored or conducted in animals or test tubes. We don’t have enough high-quality, human-based data to determine their usefulness and, if they do work, at what doses. Adaptogenic plants have been used in several medicine systems (including that of China, Japan, and India) for centuries. However, some adaptogens can still have side effects like gastrointestinal distress and cause problems for people who have diabetes, blood pressure issues, stomach ulcers, and autoimmune disorders, as well as those who are pregnant or breastfeeding. They’re considered supplements by the FDA, and thus they aren’t regulated.
One of my favorite nonalcoholic drinks contained adaptogens, but also just tasted really great.Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerEven with the hazy claims, I still think some adaptogenic drinks are worth trying if the vibe appeals to you (and you’ve talked to your doctor about relevant health issues). I didn’t add or subtract points specifically for drinks containing adaptogens, though some were docked for the medicinal undertones in their flavor. It was relatively mild in fruitier drinks like my favorite Three Spirit Livener Functional Spirit Alternative, which had a sweet and spicy profile alongside a bold serving of caffeine-containing adaptogenic guayusa. The Aplós Calme Functional Non-Alcoholic Spirit, on the other hand, leaned heavily on broad-spectrum hemp as its functional ingredient. The hemp didn’t produce a high (since it was THC-free) but was aimed at helping the drinker unwind and “quiet the mind.” It tasted too intense and verged on soapy for some of my taste-testers, although I appreciated its vegetal bitterness in soda water and two-finger pours.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Nonalcoholic DrinkSerious Eats / Ashlee RedgerLike any beverage, the best nonalcoholic drinks come down to personal preference. My favorites were well-balanced mixtures of sweetness and bitterness, with herbal and spice notes for extra complexity and interest. None of the clear, water-based spirit alternatives I tried were flavorful enough to mix (or good for sipping on their own), and I preferred using fresh ingredients or bitters to add character to mocktails instead. Although many apéritifs were fruit juice-based, most were surprisingly dry, mature, and approachable for serving over ice or mixing. Functional drinks tended to have a medicinal taste, which was off-putting for some of my taste-testers. Skip them if that sounds unappealing or if you have any health conditions that may be affected by adaptogenic ingredients.
If you can, I’d suggest visiting a bar or restaurant with some nonalcoholic options you can try in person before buying whole bottles or cases online. If you don't want any traces of alcohol in your drinks, be aware that products with the “nonalcoholic” label can legally contain up to 0.5% alcohol (according to federal regulations). Check the manufacturer’s online FAQs or look for “alcohol-free” labels for truly zero-proof beverages.
Our Favorite Nonalcoholic DrinksWhat we liked: Unlike many zero-proof alternatives, Ghia wasn’t trying to replicate an existing alcoholic drink or relying on trendy adaptogens to make a statement with its Original apéritif—it just tasted great. Despite its blend of fruit juices and concentrates (which produces a punch-red color), it wasn’t overly sweet. I noted that it was “surprisingly herbal” at first taste, with discernable ginger, rosemary, and citrus flavors. Gentian root extract lends bitterness and a pleasantly delicate anise note. I liked sipping Ghia in a simple spritz with sparkling water or ginger beer, but it was even lovelier with a squeeze of fresh lemon or lime juice. It was ideal for recreating a cocktail bar vibe—no booze needed.
What we didn’t like: Although I thought its fruit-derived sweetness was perfectly balanced with botanicals, it might be a turn-off to those who prefer punchier, more bitter drinks. At the time of writing, a bottle costs about $40—more than most mid-shelf alcoholic apéritifs. Although Ghia says its products contain 0% alcohol, it doesn’t label them “zero-alcohol” label (meaning they may have up to 0.5% alcohol content).
Key Specs Manufacturer’s serving suggestions: Combine one part Ghia Original Apéritif with three parts sparkling water, tonic, or kombucha * Ingredients: Water, white grape juice concentrate, yuzu juice, lemon balm extract, elderflower extract, gentian root extract, date concentrate, plum concentrate, acacia, fruit and vegetable juice for color, rhubarb root extract, potassium sorbate, orange extract, ginger extract, rosemary extract * Unit size:* One 500-milliliter (16.9-ounce) bottle
What we liked: Wilfred’s was an unbeatable alcohol-free option for Italian-style spritzes. Undertones of clove and gentian root helped ground its bright, citrus-heavy sweetness, while a distinct throughline of rosemary made it feel alluringly mature. It would be a welcome addition to holidays and parties, but I particularly relished it as a late-afternoon refreshment. Wilfred’s felt familiar (similar to Aperol) and was one of the least pricey bottles of the lineup, making it a good entry point for sober-curious drinkers.
What we didn’t like: It was great served with tonic (as the manufacturer suggests), but when mixed with sparkling water, it needed an extra splash of the apéritif for a fuller flavor.
Key Specs Manufacturer’s serving suggestions: Serve over ice with a premium tonic * Ingredients: Water, natural botanical distillates and extracts (clove, bitter orange, rosemary, gentian, rhubarb), sugar, citric acid, concentrates (carrot, blackcurrant), preservatives: potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate * Unit size:* One 500-milliliter (16.9-ounce) bottle
What we liked: Livener was a fantastic choice for spicy margarita fans. Its watermelon-y sweetness and hibiscus tartness were quickly chased by the spice of cayenne and the zing of ginger. After the first sip, it brought me back for another taste of sweetness to tame the heat, starting the whole delightful process over again. The heat didn’t build too much but lingered pleasantly. Although it advertised “mood-making active ingredients” like green tea, schisandra, and ginseng, I suspect the most potent ingredient of all was the guayusa-derived caffeine it contained: almost 60 milligrams per 1.7-ounce (just a little less than a shot of espresso). Combined with its exciting flavor profile, it made for a truly energizing elixir.
What we didn’t like: The Three Spirit Livener is quite sweet, and some tasters found its ginger and spice too zippy to drink much of on its own. Mixing it with soda water helped tame its intensity. Its high caffeine content may not suit those sensitive to the stuff (especially if consumed in the evening). Per its nonalcoholic label, it may contain traces of alcohol up to 0.5%.
Key Specs Manufacturer’s serving suggestions: Pour over ice, top with club soda, and garnish with a grapefruit slice; enjoy on the rocks, as a spirit alternative, with soda, or in cocktails * Ingredients: Purified water, unrefined cane sugar, watermelon concentrate, pomegranate molasses, botanical extracts (hibiscus, guava leaf, schisandra berry, ginseng, guayusa leaf, green tea, ginger, cayenne pepper), natural flavors, apple cider vinegar, black carrot concentrate, tartaric acid (food acid), citrus pectin, potassium sorbate (for freshness) * Unit size:* One 500-milliliter (16.9-ounce) bottle
What we liked: Ghia’s Le Fizz was a pre-spritzed version of the brand’s Berry Aperitif. Like its base, it was full of darker fruit flavors and reminded me of Lambrusco wine or a tart take on sparkling pomegranate or blackberry juice. Tasters noted undertones of warm spices, and one said it reminded them of kombucha “without the vinegar-iness.” Lapsang souchong (a type of smoked tea) and smoked salt added another sophisticated layer of complexity to the Le Fizz’s flavor. It paired well with food and came in a wine-like bottle, making it fantastic for keeping on ice during holidays and dinner parties. It was also my go-to pick for making celebratory, Champagne-free toasts.
What we didn’t like: Given its vivid red color and “strawberry and orange blossom” descriptor, I expected this beverage to be bright, sweet, and fruity. Instead, its flavors were more reminiscent of cooked strawberries, raisins, and tea. It took me a few sips at first to readjust my expectations and appreciate its more mature, drier profile.
Key Specs Manufacturer’s serving suggestions: None * Ingredients: Water, strawberry juice from concentrate, black currant juice from concentrate, chamomile tea (water, extract), lapsang souchong tea (water, extract), date concentrate, lemon juice from concentrate, fermented jasmine green tea, acacia, gentian root extract, honeysuckle extract, orange peel extract, cardamom extract, holy basil extract, orris root extract, orange blossom extract, cherrywood smoked salt, orange extract, rosemary extract * Unit size:* Two 750-milliliter (25-ounce) bottles
What we liked: Unlike the other producers in the lineup, St. Agrestis sells both alcoholic and nonalcoholic drinks. It specializes in Italian-inspired, amaro-based cocktails, particularly Negronis. Where cocktail-inspired drinks from other brands were loosely adapted for a zero-proof format, the alcohol-free Phony Negroni was a superbly similar alternative. It had every bit of sweet citrus and botanical bitterness needed to sate even the staunchest Negroni lover. Plus, it was infused with a fun hint of carbonation. This is the drink for those who want a punchy, familiar cocktail for parties, unwinding at home, or loading the fridge during dry months.
What we didn’t like: Tasters adored the chic bottle, herbal notes, and balanced bitterness of the Phony Negroni. The only criticism was that—without the bite of alcohol—it came off a tad sweeter than a traditional Negroni.
Key Specs Manufacturer’s serving suggestions: Enjoy straight from the bottle or over ice with an orange twist * Ingredients: Carbonated water, cane sugar, natural flavors, citric acid, phosphoric acid, quinine, sodium benzoate * Unit size:* 12, 200-milliliter (6.76-oz) bottles
What we liked: The Ghia Lime & Salt Le Spritz was moderately sweet with delightful notes of berry and ginger. Poured into a glass, it had a lovely red hue that begged for a twist of lime or a salted rim. Though it could be recreated by mixing the Original Ghia apéritif with club soda and a splash of lime juice, the cans would be great for stocking in beverage coolers and BYOB parties.
What we didn’t like: During the group tasting, some were turned off by the flavor of lime rind in this drink, though others (including me) enjoyed the bitter note. Though salt is in the name of this drink, it wasn’t noticeably salted. The little Le Spritzes were surprisingly pricey per can ($5 each/$60 per 12-can case at the time of writing), though this was on par with most of the other ready-to-drink options in the lineup.
Key Specs Manufacturer’s serving suggestions: Enjoy cold * Ingredients: Water, white grape juice concentrate, lime juice, yuzu juice, lemon balm extract, elderflower extract, date concentrate, gentian root extract, lime peel extract, sea salt, acacia, fruit and vegetable juice for coloring, eucalyptus extract, ginger extract, orange extract, rosemary extract * Unit size:* 12, eight-ounce cans
The CompetitionNonalcoholic Spirits and Apéritifs Worth Trying * Pentire Coastal Spritz Non-Alcoholic Aperitif: Unsurprisingly, this apéritif made a great spritz. It was a little less sweet and bright than Wilfred’s, but it had compelling notes of dried fruits, herbs, blood orange, and oak. * Aplós Calme Functional Non-Alcoholic Spirit: I liked Aplós’s blend of bitter cucumber, tropical citrus, and rosemary flavors, although some of my taste testers found it soapy and astringent. Its key ingredient was broad-spectrum hemp, which was meant to calm and improve the drinker’s mood (not to be confused with high-inducing THC, which it did not contain). While I’m not sure of its substantive efficacy, it did give me spa vibes and made a pleasant slow sipper at the end of long days. * Figlia Fiore Non-Alcoholic Aperitivo: This aperitivo divided tasters with its heavy-handed clove, rose, ginger, and orange flavors. Some loved it and noted it would be great for cold weather and holiday sipping, but others said it skewed potpourri-ish. I preferred it in a cocktail with a generous squeeze of lemon juice and sparkling water, which brought out its sweetness and mellowed the more fragrant notes. * Ghia Berry Non-Alcoholic Apéritif: Where the Original Ghia was filled with playful, bright flavors, this berry version was darker and moodier. Its dried and stewed fruit flavors (reminiscent of prunes and dried cherries) were paired with lapsang souchong tea, which added a subtle smoky earthiness to the apéritif. It was a great cold-weather sipper mixed with ginger beer.
Ready-to-Drink Nonalcoholic Cocktails Worth Trying * Recess Zero Proof Mocktails: Recess focuses on adaptogenic drinks, and I tried the sampler pack that included the Lime “Margarita,” Grapefruit “Paloma,” Watermelon “Mojito,” and Ginger Lime “Mule” flavors. Each contained L-theanine powder, lemon balm, and guayusa (which added 10 milligrams of caffeine per can). They all had an undertone of bitterness that wasn’t totally unpleasant, though I found it more noticeable in the citrus-based flavors. I particularly liked the Watermelon “Mojito” and enjoyed taking it on the go, but any of them would be well suited for weeknights and casual hangouts. * Curious Elixirs No. 1 Nonalcoholic Pomegranate Negroni Sbagliato: This Negroni interpretation was a hit with tasters, who liked its effervescence and complex blend of pomegranate, orange, fennel, and adaptogenic rhodiola. Its sweetness balanced the bitterness from gentian root, lemon peel, and bitter orange extracts. It would be fantastic to pair with food or to drink at a party. * De Soi Sparkling Non-Alcoholic Apéritifs: My tasters and I loved how easy it would be to bring these chic cans to picnics and gatherings, but the flavors were rather divisive. Most tasters liked the citrusy Spritz Italiano but found the Purple Lune and Très Rosé options overly floral (though a few liked that the latter reminded them of a sparkling rosé wine). Golden Hour’s flavor was “gingery, fizzy, and refreshing” to some, but others felt it had an unpalatable medicinal note (“like a cough drop”) from the adaptogens. I’d recommend these for people who don’t mind flowery flavors and want a sophisticated, lightly sweetened sipper for evenings and dinner parties.
Not Recommended* Seedlip Garden 108 Non-Alcoholic Spirit: The Garden spirit had a delicate, vegetal sweetness with hints of mint, rosemary, and cucumber. Seedlip suggested serving it with ginger beer, but it was mellow and hard to distinguish in mixers other than plain sparkling water. While I think this could be a fine option for people looking to make nonalcoholic drinks feel easier or more special, a similar (or stronger) flavor could be achieved by muddling fresh mint, rosemary, and a slice of cucumber into mocktails instead. * Seedlip Spice 94 Non-Alcoholic Spirit: The Seedlip Spice spirit tasted even milder than the Garden flavor. I did enjoy its blend of allspice and cardamom when it was combined (in almost equal ratio) with ginger beer, but I found that I could nearly replicate its taste with a drop or two of aromatic bitters. * Curious Elixirs No. 2 Nonalcoholic Spicy Pineapple Ginger Margarita: This take on a prepared spicy margarita was under-carbonated for my liking; it felt more like a sparkling drink that had gone flat. I would have also preferred more pineapple sweetness to temper the sharp pungency from the ginger and chile extracts. * Lyre's Italian Orange Non-Alcoholic Spirit: This aperitivo was meant to be a Campari dupe, but it lacked bitterness and complexity to balance its fruity sweetness. It reminded me more of a soda syrup than a proper apéritif. * Lyre's Italian Dry London Spirit: I had high hopes for a juniper-forward gin alternative, but it tasted more like jasmine-scented water. It was subtle when tasted alone and indistinguishable when mixed with tonic.
FAQsWhat are nonalcoholic spirits?Nonalcoholic spirits are zero-proof alternatives to liquors, apéritifs, and other alcohol-containing drinks. They can be sipped straight, poured over ice, or combined with mixers. Nonalcoholic drinks are ideal for anyone who prefers to avoid or limit alcohol due to health, lifestyle, or flavor preferences.
Do nonalcoholic drinks really have no alcohol?According to federal regulations, beverages containing 0.5% of alcohol by volume or less can be labeled as nonalcoholic. Some liquor alternatives, like Seedlip, contain minuscule amounts of alcohol (comparable to the amount you might consume in a glass of apple juice) because it helps extract flavors from botanicals. Other nonalcoholic drinks may have traces because they were made via reverse distillation, which removes alcohol from traditionally made liquors, wine, or beer. If you are looking for actual zero-proof beverages, check the manufacturer’s FAQs before drinking or look for products labeled as “alcohol-free.”
Are adaptogenic drinks safe?Adaptogenic drinks contain plant-based ingredients (like ginseng, guayusa, or schisandra berries) designed to create specific effects for the drinker. They are believed to help balance stress responses, moods, and energy levels, amongst other things. While adaptogens are considered nontoxic in normal amounts, research is limited, and the FDA doesn’t regulate their usage. They can have side effects like gastrointestinal discomfort and may not be suitable for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding, have health conditions, or are on prescription medications. If you have any concerns, talk to your doctor before you eat or drink any adaptogenic products.
Why We’re the Experts* Ashlee Redger is a food writer who has been reviewing equipment for Serious Eats since 2022. She has interned at America’s Test Kitchen, created consumer products and restaurant menus for national brands, and developed hundreds of recipes for home cooks. * She has written many reviews for Serious Eats, including Nespresso machines and matcha powders. * For this review, Ashlee tried 18 nonalcoholic cocktails, apéritifs, and spirit alternatives to find the best ones for sipping, mixing, and sharing. * We’ve also reviewed the best nonalcoholic beers and wines.
Vicky WasikDon't get me wrong, I love meat. But there are some days when eating it can feel a little too heavy, and there are others when I just don't want to be bothered cooking it. Those days happen at least once or twice a week, so I find myself browsing for easy vegetarian dinner recipes quite often. In the winter months, I tend to gravitate towards nourishing Indian and Thai curries that warm me from the inside out, but I also crave pizza and veggie burgers from time to time. With a list as varied as ours, there's something for everyone to choose from, whether you're a practicing vegetarian or just looking to cut out meat a few nights a week. Which one will you make first?
Dal MakhaniSerious Eats / Qi AiSimmer black gram and kidney beans with spices, cream, and butter for dal makhani—a rich, comforting meal that’s typically reserved for special occasions in India.
Really Awesome Black Bean BurgersAndrew JanjigianThese veggie burgers are complex and satisfying, with a robust texture that even carnivores will love.
The Best French Bread PizzaSerious Eats / Mateja Zvirotic AndrijanicHere, classic French bread pizza gets upgraded with a heavy dose of garlicky butter, two cheeses, and fresh herbs.
Sheet-Pan Spiced Cauliflower and Tofu With Ginger YogurtVicky WasikSpiced roasted cauliflower and crispy tofu with a gingery yogurt make a filling meal.
Mushroom and Sun-Dried Tomato FarrottoSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis savory mushroom and sun-dried tomato farrotto is a great alternative to risotto.
Vegetable QormaSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis recipe features an assortment of tender vegetables and paneer in a rich, creamy sauce.
Gaeng Garee Makheua Yao (Thai Yellow Curry with Eggplant)Vicky WasikYes, a 100% vegetarian Thai curry can be delicious.
10-Minute Chana MasalaSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezWith just a few technical tricks, this thick and flavorful chana masala comes together in an impossibly short time.
Moong DalSerious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaSpiced with turmeric and flavored with a fragrant onion and tomato masala, moong dal is a staple in many South Asian households.
Spanakopita (Greek Savory Greens Pie)Vicky WasikFor a twist on the classic, this version of Greek spanakopita uses an assortment of greens and tender herbs in addition to spinach.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezHaving grown up appreciating the value of eating the whole animal—whether it was a pig or a fish, we always ate it head to tail—I know I'm not likely to abandon eating meat and seafood anytime soon. Frankly, being a carnivore is practically in my DNA, and the idea of never sinking my teeth into a perfectly grilled piece of crispy pork belly makes me rather sad. But I still like to enjoy animal protein in moderation by incorporating more veggie-forward meals and plant-based ingredients into my diet—what some like to call being a flexitarian.
Whether you're only going meatless a few days a week or eat mainly vegetarian while occasionally enjoying a steak or barbecue ribs, we've come up with 14 deliciously satiating and warming recipes to make going flexitarian an easy endeavor. Most are vegetarian or vegan, like our farrotto, lasagna alla Norma, chili, and udon noodle soup, while a couple combine meat with a nutrient-dense legume, such as our lentils with sausage or our Italian chickpea and pork rib stew. Feel free to modify these recipes however you like—top your udon with an egg or your veggie burger with melty cheese, swap in plant-based sausages and vegetable broth, or swirl in some creamy Greek yogurt. Being flexible is the name of the game.
Vegetarian Mushroom Pot PieSerious Eats / Victor ProtasioWho doesn't love a creamy, savory pot pie on a cold winter's night? This vegetarian version is packed with umami-rich ingredients like mushrooms, carrots, parsnips, pearl onions, and fresh thyme, topped with crispy, buttery store-bought puff pastry. It's so deeply satisfying, you won't even miss the chicken.
Winter Squash Panang CurrySerious Eats / Deli StudiosAlthough panang curry is famously made with beef, here we swapped in winter squash for a plant-based version. The thick, ultra-rich sauce—made from coconut cream and peanutty panang curry paste—clings to the kabocha squash, transforming it into a warm, comforting dish that's best served with lots of steamed rice.
Butternut Squash and Kale FarrottoSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis risotto alternative made with farro is higher in protein and fiber than ordinary white short-grain rice, so not only is it delicious, but it's also nutrient-dense and satiating. Aside from roasting the butternut squash to enhance its sweetness, the farrotto is done in one pan—making it super easy to whip up for a weeknight meal.
Mushroom and Sun-Dried Tomato FarrottoSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn this iteration of farrotto, we pair woodsy mushrooms with tangy sun-dried tomatoes to amplify the earthiness and savory appeal of the ancient grain. Like our butternut squash version, it has a nutty flavor, a wonderfully creamy consistency, and a nice chewy texture. Serve it with a healthy dose of grated Parmesan cheese.
Pressure-Cooker Chicken Chili VerdeSerious Eats / Greg DupreeOn one of those non-meatless nights, you can get this pressure-cooker chicken chile verde on the dinner table in about half an hour. It's loaded with peppers, onions, and chunks of tender chicken, so all you need to round out your meal are some warm corn tortillas, a few lime wedges, some fresh avocado, onion, and cilantro.
Pressure Cooker Lentils and SausageSerious Eats / Qi AiHere, nestling sausages into lentils and pressure cooking them together infuses the lentils with meaty flavor and guarantees that they're cooked quickly and evenly. The addition of onion, apple, thyme, and cumin enhances the warm, earthy flavor profile. You can totally swap in plant-based links and vegetable broth if you want to make this dish vegan.
The Best Vegetarian Bean ChiliSerious Eats / Julia EstradaA big, steaming pot of chili is the ultimate cold-weather food, and Kenji's vegan rendition of this classic is full of deep spicy flavor and textural contrast. Using several types of whole dried chiles with different flavor profiles gives this chili the ideal balance of sweet, smoky, spicy, and rich fruity notes. The combination of kidney beans, chickpeas, and vegetables offers a complexity of textures that serve as the rib-sticking meaty backbone of the chili.
Italian Pressure-Cooker Chickpea and Pork Rib StewSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezA good way to eat less meat or stretch it out is to pair it with a nutrient-rich plant-based protein, like chickpeas. Here, tender chickpeas, fall-off-the-bone pork ribs, and soft nubbins of potato come together in a satisfying and delicious stew, with the pressure cooker doing all the work—and fast.
Lasagna Alla Norma (Lasagna With Eggplant, Tomato, and Cheese)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile there are many delectable variations of vegetarian lasagna out there—like spinach, squash, and Brussels sprout—to warm you up on a chilly evening, Daniel's layered lasagna version of the classic pasta alla Norma is in a league of its own. The eggplant is fried, but not breaded as it would be in an eggplant parm, and melds beautifully with the thick tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, ricotta salata, and pasta. What a lovely way to eat your vegetables!
Homemade Vegan BurgersSerious Eats / Fred HardyFinding a vegan burger that, to quote Kenji, "doesn't suck," makes it just a bit easier to go meatless. This ultimate veggie burger is fully loaded with flavor and has a "meaty" texture thanks to chickpeas, lentils, mushrooms, cashews, pine nuts, barley, and roasted eggplant—so it's not only insanely good, but good for you, too.
Vegan Japanese Udon With Mushroom-Soy Broth, Stir-Fried Mushrooms, and CabbageSerious Eats / Mariel De La CruzThe key to an umami-rich vegan broth is to choose the right combination of dried and fresh mushrooms, along with some major flavor-boosting kombu. Here, udon noodles and broth are topped with stir-fried mushrooms, scallion, raw enoki, and fried tofu for protein. You can crack a soft-cooked egg over the top if you're not going strictly vegan for the day.
Hearty Vegan Polenta and Kale Soup With Miso and Toasted Sesame OilSerious Eats / Fred HardyIn this recipe, we start with a classic hearty Italian polenta and kale soup but then give it a distinctively Japanese spin by replacing the Parmesan with white miso paste, soy sauce, scallions, and toasted sesame oil. Homemade vegetable broth takes it up a notch, resulting in a soup that's both simple and undeniably tasty.
Pasta e Ceci (Pasta With Chickpeas)Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianPasta with chickpeas is a no-brainer if you're looking for a cheap, filling meal—and it also happens to be Italian comfort food at its best. We purée a portion of the chickpeas into the sauce base to give the dish body and creaminess. Adding a little tomato paste in with the aromatics provides savory depth, as well as a touch of color.
Bengali Rice Porridge With Lentils and ChickenSerious Eats / Vicky WasikBright with turmeric and seasoned with ginger, this chicken-potato-red lentil porridge gets a pungent hit from mustard oil and a spicy kick from green chutney. It's what your belly needs to feed a cold, or simply to warm and nourish your body from the inside out.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMy favorite way to make steel-cut oats has quickly become using a rice cooker, but I'd be remiss if I didn't also shout out the Instant Pot (and other similar electric multicookers, though these days it sure feels like Instant Pot has cornered the market). The two methods have more in common than not in terms of setup and final product; the differences are few. Which is to say, the Instant Pot has become my other favorite way of making steel-cut oats.
More than anything else the thing that these devices offer is the ability to make steel-cut oatmeal without any of the stirring and waiting. In both cases, that's primarily because you can fill them the night before with oats, water, and whatever else, set a timer, and wake up the next day to the oatmeal ready and waiting. I don't consider that a small thing—the main reason I don't make oatmeal on a weekday morning is because I'm pressed for time and standing and stirring a pot of long-cooking oats is out of the question.
My experience is that the same ratio of three cups water for every one cup oats that works well for a rice cooker also work well in an Instant Pot, assuming you agree with my preference for oatmeal that's thick but not stiff. If not, you can easily adjust ratios to meet your tastes.
Is Instant Pot Oatmeal Really Faster Than Stovetop?A lot of people claim that an Instant Pot makes oatmeal faster than the traditional stovetop method. I wholeheartedly disagree with this. When you factor in heating time, cooking time, and then depressurization time, Instant Pot oatmeal actually takes quite a bit longer. This is partly because you need to use the natural release method for depressurization, meaning you have to wait as the cooker cools gradually over time until the built-up internal pressure drops all on its own and the cooker lid unlocks. Rapid-release methods like opening the vent aren't a good idea with oatmeal, which is prone to foaming; if your oatmeal foams up through the pressure-release valve, you'll be dealing with a mess and also potentially damaging your cooker.
Just as with a rice cooker, which also cooks steel-cut oatmeal quite slowly, setting it all up in advance and using a timer makes this downside moot—this extended cooking time can happen in the early hours of the morning while you're still sleeping. As long as you set the timer right so that the oatmeal is ready but hasn't been sitting for ages before you wake up, it'll feel like it took no time at all.
While some may feel differently, I'd go as far as to say that if I wake up in the morning and want oatmeal, there's almost no chance at all that I'd take out my Instant Pot to make it; it will simply take too long from start to finish for that to be an option. I'll just cook it on the stovetop in that case instead. To me, it really only makes sense if you're setting the cooker up in advance and then leaving it to make the oatmeal while you're sleeping.
Preventing a Foam IncidentAs just mentioned, one concern of cooking oatmeal in an Instant Pot is that it can foam up and clog the vent. This isn't guaranteed to happen, but it can. There are three things you can do to avoid this:
- Don't overfill the cooker. The more oatmeal you try to cook in the Instant Pot, the less headroom there will be inside the cooking chamber to contain foaming without it reaching the lid. The recipe below calls for one cup of oats and three cups of water, and makes a modest amount to feed about four people. You can probably make a bit more in most cookers, but try to avoid pushing the limits. A good rule of thumb is to not exceed the halfway point of the cooker's maximum fill line, but you should of course consult your cooker's specific user manual for the best guidance for your machine.
- Add fat. Fat can interfere with bubble formation, and when you have a foam-prone mixture like oatmeal, a little fat is a small insurance policy against the foam bubbling up and getting out of control. In the recipe below, a small pat of butter goes into the cooker pot for just this reason. It doesn't hurt that butter is a welcome addition to oatmeal anyway (if you do not welcome it, use a tablespoon of oil).
- Depressurize naturally. I already covered this above, but I'll repeat it here just to complete the list. Rapidly releasing a pressure cooker by opening its steam release valve causes the contents inside the cooker to boil violently, which can produce a tremendous amount of foam. By allowing the cooker to cool down on its own time, it will depressurize and release without the foaming risk of a rapid release.
Instant Pot Oatmeal Pros and ConsAt home, I almost always reach for my rice cooker to make steel-cut oatmeal in advance instead of the Instant Pot. I'll explain my reasons, though I should be clear that a lot of this will depend on the specific devices you own. Putting aside the pros that they both share, like no-stir and set-it-and-forget it functionality, here's where I think the Instant Pot excels and doesn't for oatmeal.
Instant Pot Pro (Yeah, Just One That I Can Think of)The one thing I especially like about steel-cut oatmeal cooked in an Instant Pot is the specific texture the oats develop from this cooking method—plump and tender with a notable juicy bite. The rice cooker also makes great oatmeal, but I don't detect this subtle but specific quality in the oats that come out of it.
Instant Pot ConsMy main criticism of the Instant Pot as a tool for cooking oatmeal more efficiently is that on most of the models I'm aware of, you can't set a "ready by" time the way you can on a lot of rice cookers. Instead you have to do some mental math to figure out how long the cooking and depressurization phases will take, and when you'll want your oatmeal ready, and then calculate how long from when you're setting the machine it should wait before starting so it's ready at the right time. If you're not setting it up at the exact same time every night, or if your desired "ready" time shifts, you're forced to constantly recalculate. And that assumes your estimates are correct on the cooking times.
I'm making it sound a little harder than it is, and you absolutely have some wiggle room since the cooker can keep the oatmeal warm for a while if it finishes early and sits for a bit. But still, it's way easier to do what I can on my rice cooker, which is just tell it: Make sure this is ready at X time.
My other small complaint about the pressure cooker is that, because you have to rely on the natural release method of depressurization, you can literally get locked out of your oatmeal even though it's ready until the cooker releases itself. That's potentially annoying, and unlike most rice cookers, which you can open and dip into as soon as the oatmeal is ready.
On that last point, though, I should mention that I turn it into a pro: Since I'm adding butter, I take advantage of it by melting it first in the cooker and then toasting the oats in it, deepening their flavor (then I add the water, seal the cooker, and set it to do the rest). This is something you can also do in many rice cookers, if you wish, so the Instant Pot doesn't have a real leg up, but it feels more built-in given the requirement of adding a fat from the start.
In an electric multicooker (such as an Instant Pot), melt butter using the sauté function, then add oats and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly toasted and fragrant, 3-4 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd water and salt (make sure oats are all submerged), close cooker, and set to cook at high pressure for 5 to 15 minutes (shorter if you want a nuttier chew and longer if you want a creamier, smoother result); if your cooker has a dedicated porridge mode, you can use that instead, following the manufacturer's instructions. Using the timer function on the cooker, set it to start cooking such that it will be ready and depressurized naturally when you want to eat (assume about 10-15 minutes heating time, 5-15 minutes cooking at pressure, and 30 -45 minutes depressurization time).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen ready, open cooker and stir oatmeal to ensure an even consistency throughout. Spoon into bowls and top as desired, then serve right away.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentInstant Pot or other electric multicooker
NotesThe ratio of 3 cups of water for every 1 cup of steel-cut oats produces a thick but not stiff porridge, which I like. You may need to adjust the ratio of oats to water if your preferences are different from mine, or if your cooker produces slightly different results. Once you figure out the perfect ratio for your tastes and cooker, you'll be good to go.
It may be tempting to use milk instead of water; just beware that it's not safe to leave milk sitting in a cooker at room temperature overnight if you're planning to use the timer function. Milk also runs a higher risk of scorching as the sealed cooker heats, since you're not able to stir.
Make Ahead and StorageLeftover cooked oatmeal can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 3 months. For best results, freeze and thaw in individual portions and thaw overnight in the fridge.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezYou know before you even bite into a grilled cheese whether it's going to be a great one or not. In a really good one, the cheese slowly oozes from the cut edges. The bread's exterior is an even golden brown that's lightly permeated with butter, but not overly greasy. Pick it up and you can feel the crust is crisp and supports the generous portion of melted cheese inside, yet it flexes ever so slightly. It's salty, gooey, buttery, and comforting in all the right ways, but most importantly it retains that perfect crispness, because there are few things worse than a soggy griddled sandwich.
I take grilled cheese, pressed panini, tuna melts, and all griddled sandwiches pretty seriously. I take my time, as Kenji suggests in his grilled cheese recipe, to griddle both sides of the bread. I cook the sandwich slowly so that the cheese melts in proper synchronicity with the bread toasting, reaching their desired states together. I do this because good things are worth waiting for.
But there’s no point going to all that trouble just to have my methodically, flawlessly executed sandwich turn into a soggy, slumpy mess when I go for that first bite.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThat’s what happens if you put a hot grilled cheese—or any griddled sandwich—directly on a plate right after cooking. Condensation builds up underneath the sandwich, undoing all that careful work and you end up with a sandwich that might look crunchy on top, but it’s moist, limp and sad when you pick it up. It's a grilled cheese–ruining experience.
To avoid this, you need to let it rest in an elevated position for a few minutes before slicing into it. By setting the just-cooked grilled cheese on a wire rack or some other setup that allows air to circulate around the entire sandwich, steam can escape without sogging out the bottom side. I even had an old roommate who would elevate her grilled cheese by placing two chopsticks underneath it.
And for anyone who is worried about the sandwich cooling too much during this raised-up rest, don't. Not only does this extra step avoid a steamy underside, it also gives the cheese a chance to cool down just enough, firming ever so slightly so that it doesn't ooze out of the sandwich too quickly once you do cut and bite into it.
It's a small extra step, but a necessary one for a grilled cheese to reach its rightful heights.
Vicky WasikI love cheese and have been known to eat it at every meal—even dessert, if you count New York cheesecake. Be it crumbly, creamy, sharp, or pungent, I’ll take them all. Sometimes, this gets me into trouble when I walk away from my local cheese shop with a bag full of cheese I’ll never eat fast enough before it ages past its prime. I used to desperately store my cheeses in plastic wrap, thinking it would extend their freshness, but found that this didn’t make much difference and, even worse, would often quicken the growth of mold or impart an unpleasant plastic-y flavor.
My favorite tool for storing cheese, which also happens to be recommended by several of the cheesemongers we spoke to, is Formaticum cheese storage paper. This paper has a perforated layer and a wax-coated layer to regulate the moisture of the cheese. I’ve been a loyal Formaticum follower for years, and especially like to use their cheese storage bags, which make it even easier to store my cheeses.
Formaticum Cheese Storage Bags, 15-PackAmazonWhy I Love Formaticum Cheese Storage BagsThey Keep Cheese Fresher for Longer
Serious Eats / An UongIn our guide on how to store cheese, we emphasize that “letting cheese age gracefully entails allowing it to breathe and expel moisture while preventing it from drying out too quickly.” Since cheese continually releases moisture as it ages, using plastic wrap traps all that moisture and promotes the growth of unwanted mold.
Designed with optimal cheese preservation in mind, Formaticum’s bags create a cave-like environment, which is ideal for cheese storage. The perforated layer lets the cheese breathe, while the wax layer keeps it from drying out. In my experience with using these storage bags, I’ve been able to extend the freshness of even my most delicate cheeses for weeks longer.
They’re Easy to Use
Serious Eats / An UongI love that the bag format makes it easy to plop my cheese in and fold up the top. The bags also have a notes section where I can jot down the cheese’s name and the storage date. For a fridge organization nerd like myself, this little feature goes a long way in helping me keep track of all my treasured dairy products.
They Can Be Reused Several Times
Serious Eats / An UongThese bags can be used to store the same type of cheese quite a few times before they need to be tossed. In my household, one bag can store three or four cycles of cheese before I need to switch out to a new bag.
FAQsHow should I serve cheese?
In the same guide about storing cheese, we dive into how you should temper and plate your cheese for serving.
How much cheese can Formaticum cheese storage bags hold?
Each bag can hold up to a half pound of cheese.
Where are Fortmaticum cheese bags made?
Formaticum’s cheese bags and cheese paper are manufactured in Italy.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a writer for Serious Eats and has been testing kitchen gear for two years. * Though lactose intolerant, An does not shy away from cheese (thank you, Lactaid!) and loves any excuse to gather friends for a cheese night.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppIn India, where I grew up, breakfast is always a vibrant affair, with plenty of spice and crunch. South Asian breakfasts tend to have a savory flavor profile: It’s not unusual to start the day with dosa (fermented rice batter crepes), idli (fermented rice batter steamed cakes), poha (flattened rice cooked in spices with potato), or parathas (stuffed wheat flatbreads), each deeply flavored with aromatic spices, herbs, and vegetables. Indian morning meals are a stark contrast to the sweet breakfasts—like French toast, pancakes, or the typical bowl of oatmeal topped with brown sugar or maple syrup—that are popular in America, where I live today.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppThough I occasionally enjoy a bowl of sweet oatmeal when I’m out for breakfast, the porridge I’m served tends to be bland and one dimensional, with little flavor or texture, and I’m often left wanting more. I wondered: What would happen if I incorporated some of the savory notes I had grown up with into oatmeal?
The idea for these savory turmeric masala oats came about when I was chatting with my mother about my desire to find new ways to enjoy oatmeal. She suggested a savory twist: Why not prepare oatmeal with a tadka, a traditional South Asian cooking method? The technique involves frying spices in oil or ghee to release their fragrant flavors before incorporating the mixture into a dish. The idea was so simple, and, like my mother, absolutely brilliant. I gave it a try, and the oatmeal was delicious: Each bite was infused with the earthy flavors of cumin, black mustard seeds, coriander, red pepper flakes, and turmeric.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppThis savory oatmeal has since become my go-to method for preparing oats. To make it, I start by blooming the spices in hot oil, which helps transform their fat-soluble flavor compounds into more complex, aromatic ones that give the oatmeal a fragrant depth of flavor. Cumin is the star of the show here: It brings an earthy nuttiness that anchors the dish. Ground coriander adds a floral note, while red chili flakes provide just a hint of heat, making each bite slightly spicy without overwhelming the dish. Mustard seeds, another key ingredient, offers a delightful peppery crunch, providing texture to an otherwise smooth oatmeal. Onions and garlic, sautéed until translucent, bring a subtle sweetness that complements the spices.
After I prepare the tadka, I add tomato and bell pepper to the pot and cook them until softened before adding the water, salt, and oats. As the oats simmer, they take on the sweet, earthy flavors of the spices, tomatoes, and peppers. While I prefer using old-fashioned oats for their chewy texture and heartiness, you can easily substitute them with or quick-cooking oats if that’s what you have on hand. The key is to start with half the amount of water and add more as needed, and to reduce the cooking time slightly so the oats don’t burn or become too mushy. Avoid steel-cut oats, which take much longer to cook. And if you’re feeling adventurous, you can add a handful—say, two tablespoons—of other vegetables in addition to the tomatoes and bell peppers. I’ve experimented with adding mushrooms, carrots, and peas, which give the oats more color, flavor, and texture.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppOnce the oats are tender, all that’s left to do is topping the oats with fresh cilantro, lime juice, a halved boiled egg and some yogurt, if desired. The whole dish takes just 15 minutes to cook, making this a great option for busy mornings. You could even prepare a batch ahead of time and simply reheat it when you’re ready to eat.
If you’ve ever found yourself bored with regular oatmeal or simply want to switch up your morning routine, I recommend trying my recipe for savory oatmeal: It’s comforting, has a bold flavor, and comes together in less than 30 minutes. It might just become your new breakfast staple, like it has for me.
In a small pot or saucepan, heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add cumin seeds and mustard seeds and cook, allowing seeds to sizzle and pop, until they stop popping and darken slightly, about 30 seconds. Add garlic and onion and cook, stirring frequently, until onions are translucent and have begun to soften and brown around the edges, 3 to 4 minutes. Add coriander, red pepper flakes, and turmeric, and sauté until fragrant, 30 to 45 seconds.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppAdd tomato and pepper and cook until softened and pepper is bright green, 3 to 4 minutes. Add 1 1/2 cups water, salt, and oats, stirring to combine. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook uncovered, stirring gently and frequently, until oats have softened and thickened but mixture still flows slightly, 8 to 10 minutes. (For looser oatmeal, add water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until you reach your desired consistency.) Remove from heat and divide oats evenly between two bowls. Garnish with cilantro and serve with a squeeze of lime juice, halved boiled eggs, and yogurt, if desired.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppMake-Ahead and StorageOnce cooled, the finished oatmeal, without the garnishes, can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days. Leftover oatmeal can be reheated in the microwave or in a saucepan on the stove until warmed through; add water as needed to loosen. Garnish just before serving.
Serious Eats / Vy TranMost broccoli soup recipes don’t exactly scream “vibrant” or “verdant.” In fact, I’d wager that most people are more familiar with cream of broccoli soup, or its cheesier cousin, broccoli cheddar soup. This soup subverts all of those expectations: A luscious, bright green broth that’s just as rich and velvety (but without the dairy), dotted with perfect morsels of charred broccoli, melted leeks, and crisp-tender snap peas. It’s particularly well suited to the “shoulder” seasons—the periods after summer or before spring, when temperatures are neither too hot or too cold, but perfect for green crops like spring onions, peas, and of course broccoli.
But making a perfectly smooth broccoli soup without relying on dairy can be tricky. Fibrous broccoli with its multitude of textures is a challenging ingredient for pureed soups. For a silky, creamy texture, it’s important to cook broccoli thoroughly, until it’s soft and broken down; unfortunately, broccoli cooked to this degree often loses its bright green color as chlorophyll breaks down over time and exposure to heat, turning pale and unappetizing. So how do we get a creamy texture while keeping that attractive green color? We leverage the power of pH.
Serious Eats / Vy TranSeeing Green: How Baking Soda Enhances the SoupI’ve written at length in my article on how pH can affect vegetable cooking. Baking soda acts as a weak base when dissolved in water, raising the pH of the water. When blanching water has a higher pH value (around 8.5), chlorophyll degradation slows, retaining more of the green hue in vegetables like broccoli. Additionally, sodium bicarbonate in particular reacts with chlorophyll to form chlorophyllin, a bright green salt derivative of chlorophyll. (Chlorophyllin is produced by removing a magnesium ion from the chlorophyll molecule and replacing it with sodium. This small substitution makes chlorophyllin more stable than chlorophyll. And more stable means more green.)
But adding baking soda to blanching water can be a double-edged sword: Yes, it can help retain the green color in chlorophyll-rich vegetables. But it also tends to lead to mushy textures. Why? In a high-pH cooking environment (say, greater than 8.0), pectin (the polysaccharide found in the cell walls of all land plants) breaks down and dissolves more quickly, leading to mushier, softer textures as the cell walls fall apart more readily.
Serious Eats / Vy TranIn general, that mushiness can be a bad thing. But for the purposes of pureeing to make a soup, mushiness is perfect! The resulting puree is velvety, smooth, without a hint of fibrousness. And because adding baking soda to the cooking water enhances that rapid breakdown of pectin, this also reduces the cooking time dramatically—shaving off a few minutes from the ten minutes otherwise required in neutral pH water without added baking soda.
Once the green puree is properly blended and mixed back into the final soup, it’s important to heat the soup until just warmed through and to then remove it from heat. This will preserve the soup’s vibrant green color.
Even More Green: Build Flavor with Even More Green VegetablesWhile broccoli is plenty rich in chlorophyll, it can be a bit overpowering and one-dimensional in its sulfurous flavor. To temper that flavor, I add even more chlorophyll to the mix by blanching green leek tops and parsley in the same pot before blending it all together with the broccoli. In addition to vibrant color, this intensely green puree also provides most of the soup’s body and texture.
Serious Eats / Vy TranFinishing TouchesAt this point, there’s plenty of vegetal flavor in the puree. But to bring richness and depth, I build a brothy base with leek whites, garlic, fish sauce, and a sneaky spoonful of bouillon paste. These sources of umami lend a meatiness to the soup, without adding much meat (if any at all). For textural contrast, I char extra broccoli florets to serve in the soup, and fold in snap peas at the very end for a welcome crisp-tender crunch. The finished soup is savory, velvety, unctuous, and above all, visually striking. It’s also probably got enough servings of green vegetables for an entire week—which is always a plus.
In a Dutch oven, stir together 3 quarts water, 1 tablespoon (9g) salt, and baking soda until evenly distributed. Bring liquid to boil over high heat. Add the 2-inch pieces broccoli (8 ounces) to pot and cook until vibrant green and a knife pierces easily into the stem, 5 to 6 minutes. Use a spider skimmer or large slotted spoon to remove and set aside. Return water to a boil and add sliced dark green leek tops and parsley and cook until vibrant green and wilted, 1 to 2 minutes longer. In a fine-mesh strainer or colander, drain vegetables and discard water.
Serious Eats / Vy TranTransfer the blanched broccoli, leek tops, and parsley to the jar of a blender. Add 2 cups (475ml) cold water and blend on high speed, scraping down sides as needed, until smooth, 30 to 60 seconds. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Vy TranWipe the now-empty Dutch oven dry with a clean kitchen towel. In the dry Dutch oven, heat 3 tablespoons (45ml) oil over high heat until shimmering. Add remaining 1-inch broccoli florets (8 ounces) in a single layer and cook until the first side is roasted and well browned, 4 to 6 minutes. Carefully flip broccoli and cook until the second side is roasted and well browned, about 4 to 6 minutes longer. Transfer charred broccoli to a plate and season with salt to taste. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Vy TranIn now-empty Dutch oven, heat remaining 3 tablespoons (45ml) oil and pepper over medium-low heat until pepper begins to sizzle, about 30 seconds. Add white and light green leek slices and remaining 1 teaspoon (3g) salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables soften, about 3 minutes. Stir in garlic and bouillon paste and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in fish sauce and cook until slightly evaporated, about 15 seconds. Stir in remaining 2 cups (475ml) water and bring mixture to a simmer. Add the reserved green broccoli puree and stir until combined. Cook soup until heated through, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Vy TranOff heat, stir in snap peas. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Ladle soup into individual bowls and portion charred broccoli florets on top. Drizzle with olive oil and lemon juice or vinegar (if desired). Serve.
Serious Eats / Vy TranSpecial EquipmentDutch oven, high speed blender, colander
NotesIf you don’t prefer chicken bouillon paste, you can double the amount of fish sauce in the recipe.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe broccoli puree base can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. When ready to serve, proceed with step 3 to finish.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerThe first time I ordered a green tea latte from a coffee shop, I thought the barista must have made a mistake. Surely something this neon-colored couldn’t be made from tea, right?! Although matcha has been around for over a thousand years, news of it hadn’t fully reached the rural corner of Kansas where I grew up by the time a shy, teenage version of me was trying to look nonchalant while Googling, “Why is my tea so green?”
I tell this story not only to keep myself humble but also to show that I know firsthand how intimidating it can be to get into matcha. Truthfully, it took me almost a decade after this encounter to really appreciate the flavor and another few years to discover just how absolutely cool the world of matcha truly is. Sure, it’s chock-full of wellness buzzwords and brands trying to convince you that their matcha is the superfood-iest of them all. But, if you’re willing to look past all the jargon, you’ll find that matcha has just as much nuance as wine, down to cultivar-specific flavor profiles and terroir.
Whether you’re a hobbyist looking to expand your palate or just want a beginner-friendly matcha to drink on the go, there are plenty of friendly entry points for you. To find the best matcha you can buy online, I tried 14 varieties ranging from under $15 to over $50 per tin. Ultimately, taste is subjective; the best matcha depends on what flavor profile you like and how much you want to spend. I enjoyed (nearly) all of the matcha powders I tried, but I found six that particularly stood out for budget-conscious beginners, latte drinkers, and those who want to savor their matcha.
The TestsWe tried the matcha powders three ways to cover all of our bases.Serious Eats / Ashlee Redger Manufacturer’s Preferred Method Test: I prepared each matcha according to its manufacturer’s guidelines using a matcha bowl and whisk. Many of the preparations varied in how much water they used, so I also tasted each matcha in an usucha (a traditional “thin tea” preparation of one teaspoon of matcha whisked into two ounces of water) before diluting it to evaluate the flavor notes across the lineup. I rated the matcha powders on their richness, umami, sweetness, bitterness, astringency, brightness, and earthiness. * Frothy Iced Matcha Test: I used a cocktail shaker to make frothy iced matcha with each matcha powder and noted its flavor profile. * Iced Matcha Latte Test (Winners Only):* I used an electric milk frother to blend one teaspoon of each matcha powder with two ounces of water until dissolved, then added ice and six ounces of oat milk to make an iced latte. I evaluated the matcha based on how well it came through in the creamy drink or whether it lost its complexity.
What We LearnedWhat Is Matcha?Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerThis powdered tea originated in China during the Tang Dynasty, which lasted from 618 to 907 C.E. It spread to Japan via Buddhist monks in the 12th century, where it became an integral part of Japanese tea ceremonies (and still is today). Almost all matcha is now produced in southern Japan. Like France, which has regions known for wine (think Champagne or Bordeaux), Japan has notable growing districts for matcha. Shizuoka is the largest, while specific spots like Uji (in the Kyoto Prefecture) and Yame (in Fukuoka) are famed for producing superbly rich teas.
The quality of the tea depends on how it's grown and processed. Matcha isn’t merely the ground version of green tea leaves you might find in a grocery store, although the two do share some similarities. Matcha and green tea (plus black, oolong, and white teas) come from the same plant, Camellia sinensis. While all tea comes from a single species, tea cultivars have been selectively bred for specific growing or flavor properties (similar to how most wine comes from Vitis vinifera whether it's a Riesling or a Pinot Noir).
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerUnlike green tea, plants grown for matcha are shaded during the final weeks before harvest, which boosts their leaves’ chlorophyll and theanine content. These compounds are responsible for matcha’s bright green color and umami flavor, respectively, but how much they increase depends on the thoroughness and length of time the plants are shaded (which can vary from farm to farm). Once the tea is ready to harvest, producers pick the youngest, most delicate leaves from the top of the plant, steam them to preserve their color, and dry them. The tencha, as it's called at this point, is then ground into a fine powder. After all that, we have matcha.
Culinary vs. Ceremonial Grade: What’s the Difference?Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerMatcha is commonly labeled under two main categories: ceremonial grade and culinary grade. In broad strokes, ceremonial grade usually refers to matcha made of the youngest, first leaves harvested in springtime after the plant has stored nutrients all winter. It’s shorthand for drinking-quality matcha, or matcha suitable for use during tea ceremonies. It tends to be emerald-hued, nuanced, and balanced in terms of bitterness. It’s well suited to traditional preparations like usucha or koicha. The former is a relatively thin, frothy whisked tea made with a matcha bowl and whisk (aka chawan and chasen), two grams of matcha, and two ounces of warm water. The latter, koicha, is a more formal preparation in which double the matcha is whisked into half the liquid, creating a thick paste resembling melted chocolate that's ultra-concentrated with flavor.
Culinary matcha is not recommended for drinking. It is generally made from more mature leaves and those harvested later in the season. It’s much more affordable and typically olive-toned, one-note, and astringent. However, its intensity can be advantageous when it's sweetened and combined with other ingredients in baked goods. While the “ceremonial” and “culinary” terms may be helpful starting points, they aren’t regulated and may not be applicable (or accurate) for every matcha. They’re used almost exclusively as Western marketing terms (not in Japan), and it’s up to the brands to decide what they think is worthy of the increased price. (Spoiler: Sometimes lower-quality matcha is labeled with the ceremonial classification.) Instead of relying on grades, it’s more helpful to read up on the producer’s suggested uses based on the matcha’s cultivar, harvest blend, and flavor profile.
Grading Didn’t Really MatterWe made frothy matcha lattes as one of our taste tests.Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerEven though I knew that a ceremonial designation could be hit or miss, I still went in expecting a lot from the first-harvest, ceremonial grade matcha in the lineup. I quickly discovered how many of the best matcha powders were ungraded. The Ippodo Ummon and the Kettl Shirakawa Uji Hikari both eschewed grades, had vivid hues, and were full of rich, umami flavor. I was also delightfully surprised by a few of the approachable, ungraded blends of first- and second-harvest leaves, like the Rishi Everyday Matcha and the Coldbrew from Breakaway. Comparatively, matcha powders with the “ceremonial” label weren’t automatically good. Namely, the ceremonial matcha from Golde was just as bitter and dull as the Navitas culinary grade matcha but was triple the price per gram. Instead of relying on grades, I found reading about each matcha’s producer’s practices more helpful. Brands that provided more transparent information helped me understand what I was getting and set better expectations for the matcha and its price.
Color Was a Good Indicator of QualityThe matcha on the left had a muddier color and, we found, fared worse in our tests.Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerWhile grading (or the lack thereof) wasn’t necessarily indicative of the caliber of the matcha, color was a much better clue. Matcha meant for drinking should be a vivid green without muddy hues. There’s no ideal shade for matcha, as each tin will vary depending on its cultivar(s) and when and how it was grown and processed. Yellow and brown undertones, though, can be signs of oxidation and bitterness. The Golde and Navitas matcha powders both fell on the yellowish, olive-green side of the spectrum and were astringent without much complexity. While they would have been okay for baking into sweetened treats, they didn’t make appealing drinks. On the other hand, the Kettl, Ippodo, and Blue Bottle powders were all strikingly blue-green in tone and were pleasantly nuanced with moderate to light bitterness.
Buy Only What You NeedCulinary-grade matcha often comes in larger quantities, as shown here.Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerFrom the moment it's ground, matcha starts to lose flavor potency and color vibrancy. This happens because it oxidizes when exposed to air, light, and heat. Humidity speeds up the process, too, and can cause the matcha to turn clumpy. For this reason, most matcha producers recommend keeping your powder in an airtight container in the refrigerator or freezer and using it up as quickly as you can (within three months of opening the package). It’s usually perfectly safe to drink or cook with matcha after this point—as long as it hasn’t gotten any moisture inside—but it's better to buy only as much matcha as you can use while it is at its peak. After all, drinking-quality matcha can be delicious but costly; the ones I tested ranged from $0.80 to $5.20 (!) per teaspoon. For quick reference, matcha for drinking is typically sold in 20-, 30-, or 40-gram tins. Most beverages use a teaspoon of matcha, which weighs about two grams. Therefore, you can expect to get about 10 drinks from a 20-gram tin, 15 drinks from a 30-gram tin, and so on.
Culinary-grade matcha, on the other hand, is often sold in much larger quantities, from 50 grams to one pound. It usually costs around $0.30 or less per gram, making it an attractively thrifty option. (The Navitas one I tried was in an 85-gram bag and cost about $0.20 per gram.) It’s suitable for people who cook with matcha frequently or want the intense flavor that the culinary grade can bring. But remember: It’s usually pretty bitter and dull to start with and will get more so as it ages. Unless you add food coloring, your goodies may turn out muted or brownish, and you don’t want to be left with a pile of matcha powder that’s too astringent to drink, oxidizing away in your kitchen. (Is it obvious that I’m speaking from experience here?) If the recipe you plan to cook only uses a tablespoon or two and you’re not making it regularly, you’re likely better off getting an ounce or two of culinary grade instead of a bulk bag. Or, if it’s a treat in which the tea can shine without too many competing flavors, you can consider using affordable matcha that you’ll also want to drink, like the Rishi Tea Everyday, Naoki Superior Ceremonial, or Jade Leaf Organic Ceremonial matcha.
The Criteria: What to Look for in MatchaSerious Eats / Ashlee RedgerWhen shopping for matcha, don’t get stuck on ceremonial grading or distracted by generic wellness claims. (The amount of antioxidants, L-theanine, and caffeine will vary depending on the matcha, but all matcha has them.) Instead, look for a producer that’s transparent about its sourcing practices and quality standards. First-harvest matcha powders tend to make less bitter and more nuanced tea, but first- and second-harvest blends can be approachable and affordable for beginners and daily drinkers. For enthusiasts, try seeking out a single-origin, single-estate, or single-cultivar matcha to explore its complexity. Consider what you want to use the matcha for and how much you can reasonably go through in a few months. Robust culinary grade matcha can be good for baking, but an affordable drinking-grade matcha can be easier to use across multiple applications. Try to find a neutral or bluish-green matcha without muddy tones, but know that this can be tough when shopping online because most pictures are adjusted for color. Lastly, make sure the matcha you choose isn’t blended with sugar or flavorings (unless you want that).
Our Favorite Matcha PowdersWhat we liked: The organic, single-origin Everyday Matcha from Rishi Tea was hands-down the most approachable matcha for beginners. It was $12 for a 30-gram tin at the time of writing (or $0.40 per gram). Not only was it super affordable, but it was also good. The matcha tasted clean and grassy, balanced with medium bitterness, mild earthiness, and notes of underripe peach. It was an easy sipper in each preparation and would be great for drinking on the go. Given its price, it’s also a tremendous general-purpose matcha to keep on hand for lattes, smoothies, fruity tonics, and vibrant baked goods.
What we didn’t like: Because it was a blend of first- and second-harvest leaves, it was less vibrant and nuanced than matcha made from first-harvest leaves only.
Key Specs Grade: Not listed * Harvest: First and second * Cultivars: Kanayamidori, Okuyutaka, Yabukita, and Asanoka * Origin: Kirishima Mountain, Kagoshima, Japan * Tin size:* 30 g
What we liked: The Naoki matcha was a true ceremonial grade matcha made with first-harvest leaves. Like the Rishi, it can be prepared hot or cold and with water or milk. It had a balanced, approachable profile with nuances of arugula, rhubarb, and Italian parsley. Since it comes in a larger 40-gram tin, it’s also great for matcha drinkers who like to experiment with making matcha tonics, treats, and smoothies.
What we didn’t like: Although it came in a larger tin and was still affordable compared to other matcha powders in the lineup, the tin was double the price of the Rishi Tea Everyday Matcha at the time of writing.
Key Specs Grade: Ceremonial * Harvest: First * Cultivars: Not listed * Origin: Uji, Kyoto, Japan * Tin size:* 40 g
What we liked: The Matcha Bar Premium Blend is another great place to start for beginners. It was an all-around star with full richness and umami. It felt more sophisticated than either of the budget picks, with light to moderate bitterness and astringency. While it was delightful in a latte, I also enjoyed picking up notes of pecans, alfalfa sprouts, and fresh mint when I mixed it with water.
What we didn’t like: MatchaBar wasn’t as transparent about its sourcing as other producers (like Matchaful or Rishi), and it wasn’t clear how this premium ceremonial blend differed from its standard ceremonial grade offering.
Key Specs Grade: Ceremonial * Harvest: First * Cultivars: Not listed * Origin: Kagoshima, Japan * Tin size:* 30 g
What we liked: Matchaful works directly with a fourth-generation farm in Shizuoka, Japan, for its single-estate matcha. The farm operates sustainably; it even shades the tea plants with solar panels. I picked up flavors of green banana, cucumber, and grapefruit pith in this matcha, and I found its brightness especially lovely in a latte.
What we didn’t like: It was on the pricier side of the lineup (about $1.33 per gram at the time of writing), but I’d consider it worth it for someone who values a thoughtfully sourced sipper.
Key Specs Grade: Ceremonial * Harvest: First * Cultivars: Multiple cultivars (specifics not listed) * Origin: Single estate in Shizuoka, Japan * Tin size:* 30 g
What we liked: Matcha lovers across the web widely praise Ippodo, and for good reason. The brand has been in the Japanese tea business for over 300 years and ships high-quality teas worldwide. This Ummon matcha was rich and umami with substantial vegetal notes of asparagus, green bell pepper, and kombu seaweed. In an usucha, it was a mature, nuanced sipper with a balanced bitterness that I delighted in savoring. As a shaken iced matcha, it was delicately savory, like a light dashi broth. I loved drinking it as a rejuvenating respite during afternoons.
What we didn’t like: I wouldn’t recommend it as a latte, as the milk mellowed out most of its complexities. It was also the second priciest matcha of the lineup at almost $1.50 per gram at the time of writing (about $3 per serving).
Key Specs Grade: Ungraded * Harvest: Not listed * Cultivars: Not listed * Origin: Kyoto Prefecture and surrounding areas * Tin size:* 20 g
What we liked: Kettl is a company that is known for forming direct partnerships with rural producers in Japan (like Kiyoharu Tsuji, who grew this one) to source Michelin-quality, stone-milled matcha. After tasting this gorgeous, viridescent matcha, my first word was, “WOAH!” While I had heard a lot about the umami that matcha could have (and even tasted a few I considered quite savory), this single-cultivar matcha expanded what I knew was possible. As an usucha, it had such an intense richness and minerality that it reminded me of anchovy-stuffed olives, seaweed, and MSG (in the best way). It also had fresh, soft notes of parsley, and I wrote that it tasted “like the cleanest bone broth imaginable.”
What we didn’t like: At over $5 per serving at the time of writing, this matcha is decidedly a splurge. It has a flavor complexity that demands attention, so I’d really only recommend this matcha for savoring in its traditionally whisked forms. If such a rich and savory matcha doesn’t appeal to you, Kettl also carries more other (albeit still pretty lavish) options, including ones for blending with milk.
Key Specs Grade: Ungraded * Harvest: Not listed * Cultivars: Uji Hikari * Origin: Shirakawa, Uji, Japan * Tin size:* 20 g
The CompetitionAlso Good* Breakaway Matcha Coldbrew: This matcha is made from more mature leaves than the brand’s Hyperpremium, first-harvest blends. Hence, Breakaway recommends preparing it with ice water to tone down any bitterness compared to those, not necessarily because it’s specifically formulated for “cold brewing.” (It mixed into cold water just as well as any other matcha powder I tested.) Its bitterness was mild, though, and I appreciated its subtle notes of green apple skins and arugula. * Chamberlain Coffee Matcha: The Chamberlain matcha’s brightness was balanced with light minerality and hints of green bell pepper, lime, and grapefruit. * Smith Teamaker Matcha: The Smith Teamaker matcha had a rich, nutty quality (reminiscent of walnuts) with a pleasant bitterness. It reminded me of a hoppy IPA, which I liked. * Jade Leaf Matcha Organic Ceremonial Grade Green Tea Powder: This bold matcha made me think of fresh green juices with notes of kale and celery. Its intense, quickly dissipating bitterness made it feel invigorating and bright, though a tad strong when mixed with straight water. It would stand up well in sweetened tonics, lattes, smoothies, confections, and baked goods. * Kyoto Dew Matcha: The Kyoto Dew was a balanced, well-rounded matcha that would be adaptable to everyday applications and approachable for beginners. I noted that it would pair well with berries, particularly raspberries. * Blue Bottle Craft Matcha: This matcha was rich, creamy, and savory, with light bitterness on the back end. It was more earthy than bright and had a vegetal flavor like poblano peppers. Although the Blue Bottle matcha had a sophisticated palate and gorgeous blue-green color, it was pricier per gram than other powders I liked just as well. * Navitas Organics Matcha Powder: I wouldn’t recommend this culinary blend for any drink preparations, as it was pretty bitter. However, it’s affordable, robust, and citrusy if you need a bulk quantity to bake with.
Not Recommended* Golde Pure Matcha: Although it was marketed as ceremonial grade (and priced as such), the Golde matcha I tested looked and tasted similar to the culinary grade matcha. It brought to mind broccoli rabe and over-brewed black tea, although its bitterness mellowed out quite a bit when I mixed it with milk.
FAQsWhat is matcha?Matcha is a finely ground powder made from green tea leaves. It originated in China around 600 and 900 C.E. and spread to Japan in the 12th century. The highest-quality matcha is milled from young tea leaves grown under shade, resulting in a powder that is vibrantly colored and delicately savory.
How is matcha different from green tea leaves?Matcha is made from the same type of plant as green or black tea (Camellia sinensis), but matcha tea plants are shaded during the final weeks of growing. This increases the chlorophyll production in the tea leaves, which produces a more intense flavor and color. Often, only the youngest, most tender leaves are picked for matcha. After harvesting, both green tea and leaves meant for matcha are steamed (to halt the oxidation process) and dried. Green tea leaves are left whole or in larger pieces to make them easier to strain out before drinking, but matcha is ground into a fine powder, whisked completely into the tea, and consumed.
How much caffeine does matcha have?A drink made with one teaspoon of matcha powder (a typical serving, based on our tests) contains roughly 40 and 90 milligrams of caffeine, depending on the quality of the matcha. That’s a bit more than most steeped teas but just under that of an average coffee, which contains about 95 milligrams of caffeine.
Is matcha healthy?There isn’t definitive research on whether drinking matcha has specific or consistent health benefits. As long as you’re not sensitive to caffeine, matcha can be a safe drink to add to your day. It is high in antioxidants, which have been shown to help prevent some cell damage in the body. Matcha also contains L-theanine, an amino acid that has been argued to attenuate the effects of caffeine, reduce stress, and improve focus and cognitive function (although, again, the science isn’t totally conclusive).
Does matcha expire?Since it’s a dried product, matcha won’t “go bad” or be unsafe to consume if it goes unused. As soon as it's ground, though, matcha starts to slowly lose flavor nuances and vibrancy as it’s exposed to air and light. This oxidation process can be slowed by keeping it sealed in an airtight container in a cool, dark place. To get the best complexity and color from your matcha, buy only as much as you need, store it properly, and try to use it within three months of opening. You can still drink (or bake with) the matcha after this point; it may just be more muted in color and flavor than when it was fresh.
What’s the best way to store matcha?To maintain matcha’s bright color and flavor, store it away from any oxidation-causing agents—namely light, heat, humidity, and air. The fridge or freezer is a great place to keep it; just seal it in an airtight container so no moisture or odors can get inside. Room temperature can also be fine if you’ll go through the whole tin within a few months of opening it.
Why We’re the Experts* Ashlee Redger has been cooking and writing about food for nearly a decade. She has interned at America’s Test Kitchen, created menus for national brands, and developed hundreds of recipes for home cooks. * She has written many reviews for Serious Eats, including Nespresso machines and portable induction cooktops. * Ashlee is a lifelong tea enthusiast and developed a love for matcha during the pandemic. For this review, she tried 14 matcha powders in three preparation styles. * For this review, Ashlee talked to Michelle Cheng, the founder of Ceremony café and tea house in Providence, Rhode Island.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoMy husband and I spent months soliciting food recommendations from people ahead of a trip to Memphis, Tennessee, in June of 2022. We were flooded with BBQ opinions (and left that trip all in on Charlie Vergos’s Rendezvous ribs, for what it’s worth) and Southern food restaurant guidance, and, from friends who actually lived in Memphis, several insistences that we visit one particular donut shop.
Reader, I don’t have to tell you that was the only recommendation that exceeded my wildest dreams, do I?
We visited Gibson’s Donuts every morning of that trip, walking away with five donuts and an apple fritter each time. The donuts were delightful, of course, but the apple fritter was superlative. The platonic ideal. Overwhelming in their glory. Each one is the size of a newborn’s head (or so I imagined), covered in the thinnest, prettiest glazed sheen, packed evenly with chewy, tart apple chunks, and craggy at each turn with thick, funnel cakey dough. At the beginning of summer, they ate like your best Strawberry Festival bake sale memory. We returned in August, and they were then a perfect way to prep for fall.
When we came back in late October, the people at Gibson’s knew us. Relatedly: Our first baby was born on that trip. My husband showed up at Gibson’s at 5 a.m. the day after she was born and announced “I have a daughter,” and, from what I hear, the whole shop went up in cheers. All the L&D nurses, nodding in approval at the Gibson’s of it all, got donuts, and I got extra apple fritters that morning.
The next 72 hours were a blur. But I remember more clearly than anything eating an apple fritter up at 33,000 feet, en route to New York, a 2.5-day-old-baby strapped to my chest, her gorgeous, sweet-smelling head covered in apple fritter crumbs. Wondering if I’d already failed as a mother. Laughing to my husband: “This thing is as big as her head.” It was a wild time. But I’ve spent years—more grounded in reality than I was that week—searching for other, better apple fritters. They don’t exist. This recipe, though—it comes close.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoCreating the Ideal Apple Fritter Takes Lots and Lots of TestsI spent a few days in Birmingham this summer, eating through batches of apple fritters created by our test kitchen colleague Liz Mervosh. We talked through what achieving that platonic apple fritter ideal really meant, and it all boiled down to patty thickness-to-fluffy-interior ratio, apple chunk size and texture, and glaze sweetness.
The most crucial of these elements was the thickness of the fritter itself. Through multiple rounds of tests, Liz discovered that the ideal fritter batter should be thick and sticky. This not only allows for A+ enveloping of the apple chunks, but it also gives you time to flatten your fritters while they’re taking their time cooking in the oil. (Liz found a large soup spoon worked best here, as it gave her more control when shaping the dough.) As for the actual patty thickness you’re aiming for? You shouldn’t have to extend your jaw to take a bite of the final product, and, if I haven’t mentioned, it should be big and round. This also allows for a fritter that’s more exterior than it is interior. You want this! The opposite yields too much raw chew; this way gives you golden-brown, crispy-crunchy edges in literally every bite. Flatten accordingly.
The Best Apples for FrittersAs for the fruit studded throughout, Liz landed on Granny Smith as her preferred apple. “It’s firm and retains its texture,” Liz writes, “and its naturally tart flavor perfectly contrasts with the sweetness of the glaze.” She tested batches with raw apple chunks and batches with versions of par-cooked apple chunks. Ultimately, we craved more tartness (and less rawness) than plain old Granny Smith apple bits could provide. When Liz added lemon juice to her cooked-apple version, we knew we had it: “The lemony par-cooked apples meld into the batter so much better than the raw apple pieces,” she notes.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoCrafting the Optimal Glaze for an Apple FritterFinally, for the glaze, Liz added apple cider to the equation, which took the fritter from “familiar thing you’d be perfectly happy to eat whenever” to “completely and wholly satisfying thing you simply cannot imagine existing on a chilly day without.” Going with a barely-there coating gives the experience a pleasant, glossy stickiness that you realize is on your fingers afterward more than you see it in real-time.
All that to say: Apple fritters can bring as much joy as babies can, if done correctly. Happy frying.
For the Apple Fritters: In a large skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Cook, whisking constantly with a wooden spoon, until milk solids sink to the bottom of the skillet and turn light golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add apples and stir to evenly coat in butter. Cook, stirring occasionally, until apples are crisp-tender and still hold their shape, about 5 minutes. Add lemon juice, 2 tablespoons of the sugar, and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring constantly, until sugar dissolves and apples are glazed in sugar mixture, about 2 minutes. Transfer apples to a large plate and refrigerate until cool, about 20 minutes.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoSet a wire rack inside a 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet; set aside. Fill a large Dutch oven with 1 1/2 inches of canola oil and heat over medium-high until oil is 375ºF (190ºC).
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoIn a large bowl, whisk flour, baking powder, apple pie spice, remaining 1/2 cup sugar, and 1 teaspoon salt to combine; set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk eggs, milk, sour cream, and vanilla to combine. Add sour cream mixture and cooked apples to dry ingredients, and, using a flexible spatula, fold together until a thick batter forms.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoWorking in batches of 3, carefully drop about 1/2 cup of batter into hot oil and, using the back of a spoon, immediately press fritter until fritter is about 4-inches in diameter. Fry, adjusting heat as needed to maintain temperature, and use a spider skimmer or slotted spoon to flip fritters halfway through. Cook until fritters are browned, puffed, and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Transfer finished fritters to prepared wire rack and repeat with remaining fritters.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoFor the Glaze: In a medium bowl, whisk confectioners’ sugar, apple cider, and salt until smooth. Working with one fritter at a time, dip top of fritter into glaze, allowing excess glaze to drip off. Return fritter to wire rack, glaze side up. Repeat with remaining fritters. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoSpecial EquipmentLarge skillet, wire rack, 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet, large Dutch oven, spider skimmer or slotted spoon
NotesIf apple pie spice is not available, you can use pumpkin pie spice or 1/2 tsp cinnamon and 1/4 tsp nutmeg in the fritter batter instead.
Make-Ahead and StorageApple fritters are best served immediately, but in a pinch (...or if you're taking them on an airplane), you can store them in a paper bag at room temperature for up to a day.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoYour fall and winter holiday spreads need a salad.
Yes, I know that the holidays like Thanksgiving are for unabashed enjoyment of all things rich, starchy, and beige, but hear me out. A salad not only livens up the table with vibrant colors but also serves as a welcome contrast to the heavy holiday staples, such as mashed potatoes, cheesy casseroles, stuffing, and buttery rolls. Made with fresh, palate-cleansing, bitter raw greens, juicy, caramelized pears, crunchy candied hazelnuts, and a bracing vinaigrette, our pear salad enables you to take a break from the gravy-doused portion of your plate without missing out on flavor.
Of course, nobody wants to surrender precious dining table real estate to just any old bowl of greens, so we asked our Birmingham, Alabama-based test kitchen colleague Julia Levy to create a winter pear salad that not only is festive and special occasion–worthy, but is also easy enough to make for a weeknight dinner. And, wow, did she deliver, testing batch after batch until she arrived at the perfect formula. Read on for the key techniques for achieving the ideal pear salad and for the full recipe.
Key Techniques for a Vibrant Pear SaladUse a combination of sturdy greens as the base. We selected greens for this salad with flavor and texture as the top priorities. The late fall is the start of the high season for bitter greens like escarole, so it's a natural pick for a winter-inspired salad. Its crunchy, slightly watery, vaguely bitter-sweet flavor works well with the sweet pears. Along with escarole, our salad's base has butter Bibb lettuce—its tender, mild leaves are the perfect balance to the assertive escarole.
Sear the pears. Instead of just adding raw pear to the salad, we roast the pear wedges in a bit of oil in a skillet until they are caramelized on the surface but retain a slight crunch in the middle. To ensure this, start with slightly underripe pears before you sauté them (fully ripe pears are prone to falling apart when cooked).
Incorporate crunchy and punchy ingredients. To really make your salad memorable, you need to incorporate a number of contrasting but complementary textures and flavors. A sprinkle of seasoned candied hazelnuts, quickly browned on the stovetop, and pomegranate seeds (arils) add an appealing crunch that sets this salad apart, while rich, punchy Gouda cheese adds a salty, contrasting bite.
Whether you’re making a meal to impress holiday dinner guests or just want to celebrate the season during a regular weeknight dinner, this 30-minute salad is a winner.
For the Candied Hazelnuts: In an 8-inch skillet, toast the hazelnuts over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly toasted and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add brown sugar, water, rosemary, cayenne pepper (if using), and salt; stir until combined and melted, about 20 seconds. Cook until mixture reduces slightly and hazelnuts look sticky, about 2 minutes. Pour nuts onto a parchment-lined plate or baking sheet and spread into a single layer. Allow to cool completely, about 10 minutes. Store in a sealed container until ready to use.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoFor the Dressing: In a small bowl, whisk together balsamic vinegar, fig preserves, Dijon, salt, and pepper; slowly drizzle in oil, whisking constantly, until emulsified. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoFor the Salad: In a large skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add pears, cut side down, and cook until browned on all cut sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting board and let cool slightly, about 3 minutes.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoWhile pears cool, in a large bowl, toss escarole and butter lettuce with the prepared dressing. Top with pomegranate seeds, shaved aged gouda, and the prepared candied hazelnuts. Slice pears thin and arrange attractively on top of the salad. Serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoSpecial EquipmentLarge skillet
NotesWhile we prefer the red pop of a d'Anjou pear, any of the listed pear varieties will work in this recipe.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe candied hazelnuts can be made and stored at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 1 week before serving.
The dressing can be made and refrigerated in an airtight container up to 3 days before serving.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeThanksgiving has always been my favorite holiday. For me, it’s a time to gather with family, rest, and forget about all of life’s troubles for at least a day, if not through the long weekend. It’s also, of course, the perfect time to pull out all the stops in the kitchen—and to no one’s surprise, we at Serious Eats take the menu very seriously. Appetizers? There will be at least three. Side dishes? Lots to choose from! Desserts? The limit does not exist.
Whether you haven’t started on your menu and need some serious inspiration or you’re looking to slot in a few extra dishes to round out the meal, we wanted to share a few recipes we’re excited to make for our own Thanksgiving spreads. There will be mashed potatoes and Brussels sprouts, of course, along with deviled eggs with a Caesar salad twist and a very autumnal tiramisu—just to name a few! Take a look through our picks, and then head on over to our Thanksgiving page for all of your other Turkey Day needs.
Caesar Deviled EggsSerious Eats / Amanda Suarez"Look, if you invite me to any gathering—be it a birthday, holiday, or wine night—and ask me to bring something, I will most likely show up with deviled eggs. This year for Thanksgiving, I'm going to step up my game, however, and tackle Daniel's Casear deviled eggs, because who doesn't love anchovies? (Well, my sister, but maybe this will convert her.)" —Amanda Suarez, associate director, visuals
French Onion Soup Tarte TatinVicky Wasik"I am not a Thanksgiving conformist. I will not make a standard sweet potato pie or green bean casserole, regardless of what the people want. I will, however, bring a dish that's a twist on a classic or cook a recipe that's completely unexpected. French onion soup tarte tatin straddles that line nicely. It's unique yet familiar, and the jammy caramelized onions hit on all the autumnal vibes. And the best part? It's pretty much guaranteed that no one else will bring this to the potluck. Can you say that about mac and cheese?" —Kelli Solomon, senior social media editor
Make-Ahead Fall Harvest SaladVicky Wasik"I've said it before, and I'll complain about it again: There aren't enough salads at Thanksgiving! This year, I'm taking matters into my own hands and bringing this hearty, make-ahead salad. I'm probably going to swap out the sunflower seeds for toasted pepitas because I always have those on hand." —Rochelle Bilow, commerce editor
Roasted Brussels Sprouts and Shallots with Balsamic VinegarSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt Glaze"It's simply not Thanksgiving if there aren't Brussels sprouts on the table. I'm willing to fight people about this! I love this recipe from Kenji, which includes shallots and balsamic vinegar for that sweet-tart combo that delivers. Every. Single. Year." —An Uong, commerce writer, news & deals
Ultra-Fluffy Mashed PotatoesSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt Glaze"Please, I just want to sit down and eat a giant bowl of mashed potatoes and just fall asleep on the couch. No Thanksgiving is complete without these fluffy, creamy mashed potatoes, and I can't wait to make them again this year." —Genevieve Yam, culinary editor
"I know Genevieve already chose this recipe, but I can't not pick it. I'm pregnant and have some serious food aversions going on at the moment, but mashed potatoes are one of the few things I can eat. I haven't tried Kenji's recipe, but it promises to be ultra-fluffy and I get to use my food mill (I rarely break it out, so it'll be nice for it to earn its keep!)." —Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, associate editorial director, commerce
Homemade Green Bean CasseroleSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt Glaze"I'm not one to eat a lot of vegetables (or any, really) on Thanksgiving, mainly because there are never any on the table that excite me. Green bean casserole may not be exciting for everyone, but it's not something my family has made in the past, so I really want to give it a try this year and form my own opinion. This recipe is a serious upgrade from green bean casserole made with canned beans and soup—it's made with fresh beans, freshly fried onions, and a homemade mushroom sauce. And best of all, I can prepare it ahead of time so I don't hog the kitchen space on the big day." —Yasmine Maggio, associate editor
Smoked TurkeyJ. Kenji López-Alt"Last year, my husband decided to smoke the Thanksgiving turkey. He was so gung-ho about it that he made a practice version about a month beforehand to work out any kinks (that’s commitment). All that practice paid off, and the day-of Thanksgiving bird was a winner-winner turkey dinner—never had so many people raved about the turkey. Nearly everyone went back for seconds, which is unheard of! So we’re doing it all again this year, following Kenji's same highly-tested and ultra-nerdy recipe." —Grace Kelly, commerce editor
Editor's note: For a smaller format but equally delicious recipe, try Leah Colins' new smoked turkey breast recipe.*
Baked Sangkaya Faktong (Kabocha Pumpkin Custard)Serious Eats / Shri Repp"I'm sick of pumpkin pie. There, I said it. All I want for my Thanksgiving dessert is this creamy pandan-scented coconut milk custard inside a hollowed-out kabocha squash. The stuffed gourd is baked until tender and sliced into wedges like a pie." —Leah Colins, senior culinary editor
Pumpkin Spice Latte TiramisuSerious Eats / Robby Lozano"This is speculative, since I'll be out of town in an unfamiliar kitchen, but if I can, I would love to make this autumnal twist on tiramisu. I'll admit PSL-flavored dishes can feel a little gimmicky, but this is an instance where I think it really works—who wouldn't want warm pumpkin spices in a tiramisu with just a touch of pumpkin purée to give it a slight pumpkin pie vibe? This flavor combo, with the coffee and mascarpone, just makes sense." —Daniel Gritzer, editorial director
Chocolate-Pecan GaletteSerious Eats / Amanda Suarez"I grew up in the South, so for me, pecan pie is even more emblematic of Thanksgiving than pumpkin pie. Plus, it's just a better dessert than pumpkin pie. Fight me. And since I pretty much have never met a dessert I didn't think would be better with chocolate, this chocolate-pecan galette looks like the absolutely perfect Thanksgiving dessert to me." —Megan Steintrager, associate editorial director
Roasted Sweet Potato Cheesecake With Maple Walnut Caramel Sauce[Image: Debbie Wee]"I think I made this cheesecake in 2020, but the pandemic fever dream has blurred my memories so I’m not entirely sure. Regardless, I’m making it this year. A sweet and earthy cheesecake with saucy caramel and crunchy walnuts speaks to me on a primordial level. (Growing up, I was the kid whose favorite restaurant was The Cheesecake Factory—but only for the cheesecake.)" —Grace Kelly
Serious Eats / Shri ReppThe only time you’ll find me carving a pumpkin is to make sangkaya faktong, a traditional Thai dessert in which a hollowed-out kabocha squash is filled with a creamy pandan-scented coconut milk custard. While we call it a squash in North America, kabocha in Japanese means pumpkin, which is translated to faktong in Thai. In this recipe, the whole gourd is cooked until tender and sliced into wedges like a pie. It’s traditionally steamed, but I find that baking it at a steady low temperature is easier, tastes better, and results in a prettier pumpkin for showing off than when steamed—it's the perfect dramatic centerpiece for your Thanksgiving table or any festive occasion.
While sangkaya faktong’s show-stopping presentation might give the impression that it is challenging to make, my version is actually relatively easy to assemble and cook (aside from its lengthy hands-off baking time). It's a true “low effort, high reward” recipe that’s ideal for serving to guests. Here’s how to guarantee a silky set custard encased in a tender, perfectly baked pumpkin every time.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppSelecting the Right Pumpkin for Sangkaya FaktongCan You Substitute Kabocha for Another Squash?People have asked me if they can make sangkaya faktong with a different winter squash than a kabocha. I’ve been around the pumpkin patch enough times in my life and really do think kabocha is best suited for this dish. It’s sweeter than other squashes (with a lovely chestnut note) but has a denser texture than, say, a sugar pumpkin, which might fall apart before the custard sets due to its thinner, less dense walls. Plus, you can’t go wrong with the striking contrast between kabocha's deep green rind and bright orange flesh that’s showcased once sliced.
The Best Pumpkin Size for Sangkaya FaktongMany sangkaya faktong recipes aren’t exactly foolproof—telling you to adjust ingredients and cooking time depending on the size of your pumpkin. Fortunately, grocery stores and farmers markets have scales, and I recommend you use one to find a small kabocha that’s about two pounds. If you follow my instructions below with a roughly two-pound kabocha, you’ll get a perfectly cooked and seasoned pumpkin and custard filling with little room for error.
Baking vs. Steaming Sangkaya FaktongTraditional sangkaya faktong recipes, along with recipes for many other Thai desserts like kanom tuay and kanom chan, call for steaming the custard-filled pumpkin as the cooking method because ovens weren’t common in households back in the day. While older generations of Thai cooks are still less likely to cook with an oven (my mom uses hers for storage), I, a modern Thai-American cook, embrace my oven. I find that baking sangkaya faktong at a low steady temperature gets better results.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppSteaming can cause the pumpkin flesh to get waterlogged and split—one of the main reasons people think this dish is a pain to make. Steaming on the stovetop also requires constant monitoring and more care to keep a steady heat level. While baking takes longer, it’s more hands-off and results in caramelized and buttery pumpkin flesh that's wonderful when eaten with the slightly sweet and creamy custard. Baking the custard inside a pumpkin also insulates it behind the kabocha’s thick, moist walls, so there’s minimal risk of overcooking the custard. Whether steamed or baked, the custard is protected from drastic temperature changes inside the pumpkin.
Once the pumpkin is baked, you’ll be tempted to tuck into it right away, but it’s important to wait at least 30 minutes before slicing into this masterpiece so the custard has time to cool and set properly. This guarantees the perfect wedge of tender, creamy squash filled with rich custard. This dessert is equally delicious warm, at room temperature, and chilled—some people think it tastes best cold, so if you have any leftovers, just enjoy them straight out of the fridge.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). In a small saucepan, combine coconut milk, palm sugar, pandan leaves, and salt. Heat over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar dissolves and mixture gets slightly frothy, 4 to 5 minutes. Do not let it boil.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppIn a medium bowl, lightly whisk eggs and while whisking, gradually add rice flour until well combined. Still whisking, slowly add hot coconut milk mixture and whisk until well combined. Let sit while you prepare the kabocha squash.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppFor the Squash: Using a paring knife or pumpkin carving knife, remove the top of the pumpkin in one piece by cutting a 3-inch wide circle or pentagon around the pumpkin stem to form a lid (see notes). Remove the lid and set aside.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppCarefully run edge of a large spoon (a Chinese soup spoon, particularly a metal one, works well here) along the cavity of the kabocha to loosen seeds and stringy pulp, then use spoon to scoop them out and scrape the cavity clean. Using the paring knife or edge of spoon, scrape seeds and pulp from the lid as well. Discard seeds and pulp or reserve for another use.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppPlace the cleaned and prepped kabocha on a rimmed baking sheet. Hold a fine-mesh strainer over the kabocha opening and pour custard through the sieve directly into the squash. Fill until the custard just reaches the top of the inside cavity. (You may have a little extra custard; if so, pour into a ramekin and bake separately for a little treat for yourself.)
Serious Eats / Shri ReppWrap the kabocha lid in foil and place it on the baking sheet next to the filled pumpkin. Bake until custard puffs up and is just set to the touch, with a slight jiggle in the center, 60 to 90 minutes. An instant-read thermometer should read 175°F (80°C) in the center of the custard.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppCool at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours. Carefully remove the foil from the kabocha lid and set back into top of the kombucha, enclosing the custard until ready to serve. Slice into 6 or 8 wedges. The dessert can be served warm, at room temperature, or chilled.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppSpecial EquipmentChinese-style metal soup spoon, fine-mesh strainer, baking sheet, instant-read thermometer
NotesPandan leaves can be found at many Southeast Asian markets and are often sold frozen. If you don’t have pandan leaves, add 1 teaspoon (5g) clear pandan extract or vanilla extract after tempering eggs. Alternatively, you can omit it altogether, though pandan is well worth seeking out for its captivating aroma and flavor.
The best substitute for palm sugar is a combination of 1/3 cup (66g) light brown sugar and 1/3 cup (71g) granulated sugar.
If you don’t have rice flour, substitute 1 tablespoon (7.5g) all-purpose flour.
To steam sangkaya faktong instead of baking, place a steamer insert in a large pot and fill with water until it’s just under the steamer. Place the custard-filled pumpkin on the steamer, cover steamer with a lid, and steam over medium-low heat for 50 minutes to 1 hour.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe pumpkin custard will keep for 3 to 5 days covered in the refrigerator. Don’t bother heating it up; some people say it tastes even better cold.
Andrew JanjigianWhen I was growing up, there was always a box of store-bought phyllo dough sitting in my family’s freezer. My mom kept it there for whenever the mood would strike her to make flaky, crispy, simple syrup–soaked homemade baklava fragrant with rose water and studded with pistachios—a rare treat! I would sit in the kitchen, watching her carefully unravel layer after layer of phyllo dough, placing each in a sheet pan and brushing it with butter before adding another sheet. It was a meticulous process but the satisfying crunch of biting into a square of her baklava made it seem well worth the effort.
Though my mom mainly used phyllo dough for baklava, the pastry has many excellent applications, both sweet and savory, so it's well worth keeping in your freezer, too. The ingredient is a staple of Greek cuisine and many Middle Eastern cuisines, and it's easy to find in the freezer section of just about any US grocery store, as well as in specialty stores. Here, we’ve gathered a list of six phyllo dough recipes, including Greek spanakopita, Armenian spinach and cheese turnovers, a spin on the Internet-darling crinkle pie, and, yes, baklava. So, grab a box or two of phyllo on your next trip to the supermarket (or pull one out of your freezer).
Bastila (Moroccan Chicken Pie)Serious Eats / Qi AiThis simplified skillet bastila features a savory stewed chicken filling with eggs and crunchy almonds, all topped with a crisp pastry dough.
Savory Vegetarian Crinkle PieSerious Eats / Fred HardyThis hearty vegetable phyllo pie is crunchy, creamy, and cheesy all in one bite. Best of all? It only takes 15 minutes to prep.
Borek (Armenian Spinach and Cheese Turnovers)Andrew JanjigianThese crispy, cheesy hand pies that are a must for any mezze spread, along with cured olives, string cheese, dried apricots, walnut halves, and cured meats like basturma (the Armenian equivalent of bresaola) and sujuk (spiced Armenian sausage).
Spanakopita (Greek Savory Greens Pie)Vicky WasikFor a twist on the classic, this version of Greek spanakopita uses an assortment of greens and tender herbs in addition to spinach.
Creamy Garlic Chicken Spanakopita SkilletMorgan EisenbergThis recipe combines the best of chicken pot pie and spanakopita in one skillet.
Pistachio BaklavaSerious Eats / Mai KakishWith layers of buttery phyllo dough and nuts drenched in simple syrup or honey, homemade baklava—or bak-la-wa in Arabic—is the ultimate sweet treat.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeI first delved into the intricacies of pâte brisée, a French tart dough, during pastry school, when we used it as the base for a tarte aux pommes, a traditional French tart with paper-thin apple slices arranged in a circle, shingled over one another. It was buttery and flaky, and reminded me of my favorite American pie crust. Like pâte sucrée and pâte sablée, this fundamental French dough is a versatile base for pies, tarts, and other pastries. While pâte sucrée and pâte sablée are sweet and best paired with fruit or frangipane, brisée's neutral flavor works equally well for desserts as it does for savory bakes like quiches, vegetable tarts, or canapés.
Buttery, flaky pâte brisée requires just a handful of basic ingredients: typically flour, butter, salt, water, and sometimes a touch of sugar. Some recipes also incorporate egg or egg yolk for a variation known as pâte à foncer, an egg-based dough that’s slightly sturdier and easier to work with but less tender. I prefer pâte brisée’s flaky texture, and instead of compromising texture for ease of workability, I’ve skipped the egg in the dough for the lightest, crispest pastry possible. But not to worry—my recipe below has tips for working with the crust, and it’s really not too finicky.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeThe Building Blocks of Pâte Brisée: Sablage and FraisageThere’s no way around it: To make good pâte brisée, you need to get your hands dirty—or rather, buttery and floury. This recipe employs two key French pastry practices. First, there’s sablage, the motion of rubbing cold butter into flour with your fingertips, which coats the gluten proteins in fat, minimizing gluten development for a crisp, tender crust. While we want some gluten development for structure, we don’t want too much, which would result in a tough, brittle crust. Then, there’s fraisage, a technique that involves using the heel of your hand to smear the dough across a hard surface, distributing fat and moisture. The process creates long ribbons of butter, and as the shell bakes, these ribbons of butter melt, creating little pockets of steam that create the flaky layers in the crust. They'll be especially obvious after freezing, so don't be surprised by the marbled white appearance—it means you're on your way to perfect pâte brisée.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeWhy It’s Important to Blind Bake—and How to Do ItBlind baking, or baking the pastry shell before you fill it, serves several purposes. First, it allows the crust to bake evenly and ensures that it can support a wet filling without leaking or becoming soggy. Blind baking also means that the crust can be used for fillings that will not be baked themselves, such as curds, mousses, or cream-based pie fillings.
To blind bake, line the unbaked pastry shell with parchment (I like to crumple the paper so it conforms to the shape of the pan), then fill it with weights, such as pie weights, uncooked rice, sugar, or dry beans. Bake until the edges turn very light brown, remove the parchment carefully to avoid damaging the pastry, then follow the recipe you've chosen to fill and finish the pie or tart. You can partially blind bake pâte brisée, add a filling, then bake the rest of the way, or fully bake it for cold fillings like fruit curds and pastry creams.
Any flat or fluted tart pan will work for pâte brisée, but I recommend choosing one with a removable bottom. This handy feature makes it easier to remove the delicate pastry shell, minimizing the risk of breakage.
One more tip: If you plan to bake multiple tart shells in the same session, keep plenty of extra dried beans or your pie weight of choice on hand. Never use hot beans or weights for blind baking, as they will melt the butter in the crust before you’ve even had a chance to put the pastry in the oven.
Serious Eats / Debbie Wee5 Key Techniques to Keep in Mind for Making the Best, Flakiest Pâte Brisée1. Relax and chill. You’ll notice there’s a lot of chilling in the recipe below. This is intentional: chilling relaxes the gluten—making the crust more tender—and keeps the butter firm, which is essential for a crispy, flaky crust. 2. Pay attention to the balance of flour and water. Flour your rolling pin and work surface to prevent the dough from sticking, and also coat your fingertips with a thin layer of flour before pressing the dough into the pan. Don't go overboard, though—too much flour will throw off the dry-to-liquid ingredient ratio, creating a dry, crumbly dough and a tough crust. 3. Don't overwork the dough. Excess kneading promotes gluten development, and too much gluten can toughen the pastry and cause it to shrink as it bakes. 4. Pay attention to the oven. Pâte brisée is not a "set it and forget it" recipe. Check the tart shell every few minutes (with the oven light on and door closed!), especially near the end of the bake. I also recommend using visual cues—not just the clock—as a guide. The pastry should be deeply golden-brown all over; the amount of time this takes will vary based on your oven, the pan you've chosen, and your blind baking technique. 5. Dock the pastry. After removing your chosen pie weights, prick small holes in the bottom to prevent the pastry from doming as it continues to bake. I recommend using a fork to dock tart shells, as the utensil can easily reach the edges of the pan.
How to Use Pâte BriséeYou can use pâte brisée anywhere you'd use a homemade pie crust, such as cherry or apple pie. In addition, this versatile dough works well for a range of traditional French pastry recipes such as tarte amandine (almond cream tart), tarte aux fruits (fruit tart with pastry cream), and tarte aux pommes (apple tart). In addition to sweet recipes, pâte brisée makes an excellent base for savory vegetable galettes, quiche, onion tarte tatin, and cheese and vegetable tarts. You can even use it to make canapés or press it into a muffin tin or mini tart tins to make appetizer-size portions of any quiche or tart.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeIn a large mixing bowl, whisk flour, sugar, and salt to combine. Add butter to flour mixture and toss with fingers until butter pieces are thoroughly coated with flour mixture. Using your fingertips, pinch and flatten butter, then rub it between your fingertips until a sandy texture forms, 3 to 4 minutes. (It should resemble coarse breadcrumbs with some pea-size pieces still visible but no large chunks of butter remaining.)
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeDrizzle water over flour mixture and use a bench or dough scraper to incorporate until large clumps form. Tip mixture out onto un-floured countertop and, using the heel of your hand, smear the mixture into the countertop away from you, then use a dough scraper to gather the dough back together. Repeat 2 to 3 times, until a shaggy dough forms, then use your hands to gently squeeze the dough together. Do not overwork; dough should hold together but still feel slightly crumbly, not wet or sticky.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeFlatten into a 6-inch disc. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour, or up to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeUsing as much flour as needed, roll dough to 1/8-inch thickness and 10 inches wide, adding more flour to the rolling pin or surface as needed to prevent the dough from sticking. You should see streaks of butter in the rolled dough.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeGently transfer dough to 9-inch tart pan. Using lightly floured fingertips, press dough into the bottom edge and fluted sides of the pan; using a pastry brush, dust off any excess flour. Refrigerate until dough is firm to the touch, about 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeUsing a sharp paring knife, trim away excess dough from the edges so that the dough is level with the top of the pan. Refrigerate tart shell for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeUsing a fork, prick tart dough all over. Freeze tart shell for 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeTo Bake: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 400°F (205° C). Place a crumpled sheet of baking parchment inside the frozen shell and fill to the brim with dried beans, sugar, raw rice, or baking weights.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeBake crust until edges are firm and lightly golden brown, 23 to 27 minutes. (The bottom will still look "doughy" and light in color.) Remove tart crust from oven and carefully remove parchment and weights. Return crust to oven and bake until golden brown around the edges, 7 to 10 minutes. At this point, the crust can be used with fillings that require further baking. For a crust that will be used with uncooked fillings such as a mousse, continue baking until bottom and sides are deeply golden brown, about 5 to 7 minutes more. Transfer to a wire rack and allow tart to cool completely, 45 minutes to 1 hour, before filling or removing from tart pan.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeSpecial EquipmentDough scraper, rolling pin, 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom, baking weights or beans
NotesThis recipe can be doubled.
For sweet tarts: Increase sugar to 2 teaspoons (10g). For additional flavor, you can also add 1 teaspoon vanilla paste. Whisk vanilla paste into ice water to incorporate it evenly into the dough.
For tartlet shells: Blind bake at 400° F (205° C) for 20 to 25 minutes, or until lightly golden brown around the edges. Remove parchment and weights and dock with a fork. At this point, the crust can be used with fillings that require further baking. For a crust that will be used with uncooked fillings such as a mousse, continue baking until deeply golden brown, about 8 to 10 minutes more.
Make-Ahead and StorageDough can be tightly wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 24 hours. Allow to sit at room temperature for 15 minutes, or until soft enough to roll. Dough can be also wrapped first in a layer of plastic wrap and then a layer of aluminum foil and frozen for up to 1 month. Thaw in refrigerator, about 4 hours.
Lined and trimmed tart pan can be tightly wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 24 hours or tightly wrapped first in a layer of plastic wrap and then a layer of aluminum foil and frozen for up to 1 month. Bake from frozen.
Wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, baked tart shell will keep at room temperature for up to 1 day.
To freeze baked tart shell, wrap tightly in plastic wrap and aluminum foil and freeze for up to 1 month. Thaw at room temperature, about 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerCoffee and wine are often fancifully described. For coffee, common tasting notes include chocolate, caramel, fruit, and baking spice. These descriptors are meant to be expressive and enticing—reading them should make you want to take a sip.
Unfortunately, they often seem to scare people a bit. As a certified sommelier, I’ve seen this happen countless times. It makes me sad when I hear someone shrug off a tasting note by claiming “I can’t taste the difference anyway.” You can taste it—I believe in you! The secret is that differences are much more apparent when you sample several varieties side by side. This is a big part of professional training, but it’s not the way most of us drink our morning coffee (or evening wine).
Tasting lots of coffee is the best way to discover what you like. To help get you started, I brewed 14 Nespresso pods for their Original and Vertuo machines (using our favorite models of each).
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Nespresso Scuro is balanced and flavorful. Dark roast coffee can lean a little one-note—all you taste is the bitter roast. This version retains rich individual notes of fruit and chocolate. It makes a tasty espresso or coffee and it’s flavorful enough to yield a lovely iced coffee or latte. It’s available for both the Vertuo and Original Nespresso machines.
The Nespresso Colombia is made from 100% Colombian Arabica coffee beans. This is a light roast brew with mild bitterness and sharp acidity. Nespresso recommends serving the Colombia as a coffee or espresso to appreciate its red fruit bouquet and wine-like complexity.
The Nespresso Vaniglia was by far the best of the flavored pods. It’s surprisingly subtle—the coffee doesn’t taste artificial or overly sweet. It blends well with milk for a latte or cappuccino.
This is my pick for those who avoid caffeine. It had caramel notes and stood up well to a splash of milk.
The TestsSerious Eats / Madeline Muzzi Plain Brew Test: I brewed a plain coffee or espresso with each pod to evaluate its smell and taste. I took notes on the aroma, flavor, and texture to help me compare cups. * Specialty Drink Test:* I tested Nespresso’s recommended brewing style (latte, iced, espresso) for each of the top-performing pods, using whole milk where applicable. I took notes on the aroma, flavor, and texture.
What We LearnedGo Bold for Lattes and Iced Drinks Bolder Nespresso pods stood out better when milk was added.Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziWhen pairing wine with food, sommeliers aim to match intensity. For example, if you drink a delicate Chablis alongside spicy barbecued ribs, the food will overpower the taste of the wine. I found that a similar principle applied to creating Nespresso’s espresso-like drinks. Medium roast brews are lovely on their own, but the flavor of a bold dark roast blends well with milk.
If you start your morning with a latte or iced coffee, go for a darker option. Roasting brings out coffee’s bold, smoky, and nutty flavors. These notes can stand up to milk or ice without being muted. Creamy milk also helps balance out the bitterness in bolder coffees. Nespresso recommends pods like the Nocciola and Freddo Intenso for lattes. It also offers Vertuo pods like the Forte and Leggero specifically designed for iced coffee.
Use Nespresso’s Guide Nespresso's tasting (and intensity) notes were helpful starting points.Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezEach pod has its own profile page on Nespresso’s website. Nespresso provides tasting notes, brewing recommendations, and individual scales for body, bitterness, roast, and acidity. I didn’t always pick up on the exact tasting notes mentioned by the company, but I did find that I agreed with the overall intensity score for each pod. Once you find a few pods that you like, try using Nespresso’s website to find similar brews.
Know Your Machine: Vertuo vs. OriginalThe Original pods (left) and Vertuo pods (right).Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerNespresso makes two types of machines: the Original and Vertuo. The Original uses a high-pressure pump to force heated water through the coffee pods and make espresso and employs the same water temperature and amount of pressure for each pod. These machines focus on espresso or lungo espressos. Several major coffee producers, including Peet’s and Starbucks, make compatible coffee pods.
Vertuo machines are a little more high-tech. Each Vertuo pod includes a barcode. The machine scans this code and adjusts the brewing process to complement the coffee. Rather than simply allowing water to drip through the grounds, the machine injects a small amount of water into each pod and spins it while the coffee infuses. Vertuo machines can make espresso or coffee and the pods are proprietary.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Nespresso PodSerious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe best Nespresso coffees are smooth and balanced with just a touch of bitterness. Look for a pod style that will work with your favorite drink—bolder options are better suited for creamy and iced beverages. If you want to try a new coffee style, peruse the Nespresso website’s tasting notes to find pods with a similar intensity.
Our Favorite Nespresso PodsWhat we liked: The Scuro is a well-balanced coffee. Nespresso rates Scuro pods three out of give on the roastiness scale. I found that the medium-dark roast added enjoyable richness and toastiness without overpowering the coffee’s more subtle flavors. The mid-level intensity makes this brew versatile—Nespresso recommends enjoying it as an espresso or iced coffee. Even chilled, plenty of bold flavors come through.
What we didn’t like: The Scuro is a blend of Robusta and Arabica coffee from Central America. There’s nothing wrong with blended coffee, but it can be harder for producers to ensure consistent flavor in every batch they make. Some tasters found the Scuro too toasty.
Key Specs Tasting notes: Cacao, vanilla, chocolate * Recommended brew style:* Espresso, double espresso, iced
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziWhat we liked: Colombia coffee pods are part of Nespresso’s Master Crafted Single Origins line of 100% Arabica coffee beans sourced from Colombia. In my opinion, drinking single-origin coffee is enjoyable even without a ton of background knowledge—it’s an easy way to appreciate the complexity and learn a bit about different coffee regions. Nespresso rates the Colombia pods a one out of five on the roastiness scale. The light roast preserves plenty of the beans’ unique characteristics. When brewed, it has notes of red berries and a wine-like complexity.
What we didn’t like: Nespresso’s Colombia pods might not be the best choice for morning latte drinkers, as this delicate, aromatic coffee can be overpowered by milk. Light roast coffees have more caffeine than their darker counterparts—I’ll let you decide if that’s a red flag or an added perk.
Key Specs Tasting notes: Candied apple, red berry, wine * Recommended brew style:* Espresso, lungo, coffee
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziWhat we liked: This vanilla-flavored espresso is surprisingly subtle. The Nespresso website lists “natural vanilla aroma” and “other natural aromas” as flavoring agents. When brewed, Vaniglia lacks the cloying sweetness and harsh artificial edge found in some flavored coffees. Nespresso suggests drinking Vaniglia coffee as a lungo or cappuccino, latte, or macchiato. During testing, I found that this coffee paired nicely with milk. Vaniglia lattes were delicate, creamy, and lightly sweet.
What we didn’t like: Vaniglia pods are only available in espresso format—they aren’t compatible with the Vertuo machine.
Key Specs Tasting notes: Vanilla, sweet biscuit, cereal * Recommended brew style:* Espresso, lungo, latte
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziWhat we liked: The Nespresso Fortado blend is a solid option for the caffeine-averse. This is a dark roast with medium-high intensity. It yields a satisfyingly robust cup of coffee with toasty caramel notes. Nespresso recommends serving the Fortado as a Gran Lungo, but I found that the flavor stood up well to a splash of milk.
What we didn’t like: Fortado Decaffeinato pods are only available in Vertuo format—they aren’t compatible with the original Nespresso machine. If you’re looking for a decaf espresso after dinner, this won’t do the trick.
Key Specs Tasting notes: Cacao, oak, caramel * Recommended brew style:* Gran Lungo
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe Competition* Nespresso Ristretto: This dark roast was overly bitter—it had a burnt finish and a thin mouthfeel. * Nespresso Ice Forte: The Ice Forte had a pleasant fruit and pepper aroma and lingering bitter almond on the palate—a solid choice for ice coffee devotees * Nespresso Ice Leggero: This blend was pleasantly toasty and fruity but once it was combined with milk and ice it produced an extremely mild drink. * Nespresso Napoli: This was an intense dark roast—creamier and more balanced than the Ristretto but still a little too bitter for my taste. * Nespresso Sweet Vanilla: This flavored pod was overly sweet and tasted artificial. * Nespresso Intenso: This was a robust and bold dark coffee that worked well with milk but it was slightly too bitter on its own. * Nespresso Roasted Hazelnut: This pod yielded a cloyingly sweet and artificial-tasting drink. * Starbucks by Nespresso Blonde Roast: This woody blonde roast lacked complexity. * Peet’s Coffee Crema Scura: Sadly, this was an intense dark coffee with a strong bitter finish and minimal depth.
FAQsHow do you recycle Nespresso pods? Nespresso pods are made from recyclable aluminum. You can’t throw them into your home recycling bin, but the company offers several ways to return used pods. Capsules can be dropped off at a Nespresso store or shipped to a waste center with a provided recycling bag. Nespresso has also created a network of collection points for in-person returns—use its website to find one near you.
How much caffeine is in a Nespresso pod?Caffeine content varies depending on the type of bean, degree of roast, and pod size. Nespresso espresso pods generally contain between 70 to 150 mg of caffeine. Vertuo pods are slightly larger and range from 170 to 200 mg.
Can you use Nespresso pods twice?No—Nespresso pods are single-use. Brewing an espresso or cup of coffee extracts most of the flavor from the grounds. Reusing a pod would result in a weak, flavorless cup.
Why We’re the Experts* Madeline Muzzi is a regular Serious Eats contributor, reviewing kitchen items like flatware and toaster ovens. * As a certified sommelier, Madeline is formally trained in deductive tasting. * Madeline tasted 14 different Nespresso coffees multiple times to conduct this review. * We’ve also reviewed Nespresso coffee makers.
Serious Eats / Vy TranDespite my commitment to a from-scratch Thanksgiving dinner, I've almost always had one item on my holiday table that’s decidedly not homemade: a can of jellied cranberry sauce. That iconic vessel of dark maroon goo and the satisfying “thhhhwap” sound as it exits the can is pure nostalgia, sliced up into sweet, wobbly discs to serve alongside the meal.
Serious Eats / Vy TranBut the flavor of that canned sauce? I have to admit that it’s pretty one-note. A few years ago, I realized that with gorgeous local cranberries all around me where I live in New England, I could make an even better "canned" cranberry sauce, one that's perfectly gelled with a smooth texture and balanced flavor.
Made with just cranberries, sugar, and water, this sauce has an ideal balance between sweet and tart and is bursting with fresh cranberry flavor, but you can also add grated orange zest or fresh ginger to the mix to liven things up at the holiday table. It's so good, I think it’ll convince devotees of the cylindrical purple blob to step away from the can once and for all.
Defining Jelly, and the Science Behind ItI ran a small jam business for many years, so the idea of something “jellied” is quite familiar to me. To those less acquainted with making fruit jelly, it can seem like magic: You start with a pile of fresh fruit, wave a wand (okay, actually a spatula) over a bubbling, boiling cauldron, and then everything comes together into a glistening, jewel-toned sliceable jelly that is firm enough to hold its shape when jiggled.
I assure you, though, that there is chemistry behind the magic, and understanding it is key to making great jelly. One way to get fruit preserves to gel is to activate the fruit's natural pectin, a compound found in all fruits and vegetables, but in varying amounts. When fruit containing a high amount of pectin is heated, the pectin is released from the fruit’s cell walls and dissolves into any added water.
When combined with sugar and heated to 217 to 221°F (103 to 105°C) to evaporate excess moisture, the pectin chains bind together to form a gel. At this temperature range (8° higher than boiling water) enough water evaporation will have occurred that the concentration of sugar will be about 65% and the pH will be acidic, somewhere between 3.1 and 3.6, which is the sweet spot for gelling to occur. The higher the amount of pectin in the fruit, the stronger the gel that forms. If the fruit you start with doesn’t have a lot of pectin, you can add commercial powdered pectin (extracted from high-pectin fruits) to the mixture to achieve the same effect.
Serious Eats / Vy TranLuckily, cranberries are chock-full of pectin, and a great fruit choice for making jelly; they don’t need any additional powdered pectin or thickeners to ensure a proper jiggly set. Heating the cranberries in water ensures the cranberry skins burst open, releasing their pectin to jumpstart the gelling process. On top of being loaded with pectin, cranberries are also acidic, which helps the jelly to set even more firmly.
How to Ensure the Perfect Sliceable Cranberry Jelly TextureThe major challenge with making jelly with the ideal sliceable set is that the pectin web doesn't really solidify until the jelly mixture cools down. That means it's tricky to tell whether you've achieved the gelling point while jelly is still hot, as it will still be a liquid. A foolproof way to tell if the sugar has bonded with the water and the pectin to its proper gelling phase is to cook the fruit mixture until it hits the ideal temperature range around 220℉, as noted above.
Serious Eats / Vy TranAnother reliable test that I always use to double check the jelly’s set is the “plate test.” The plate test is a classic preserving technique in which a small spoonful of the hot fruit mixture is quickly cooled to a solid state on a frozen plate. If the mixture has properly gelled, it will make a clear trail when you push your finger through it on the chilled plate. It’s a sneak preview of the cooled sauce to confirm if it will set. If the jelly is still too runny, just keep cooking it and performing the frozen plate test every five minutes until you achieve the consistency you want.
Selecting the Jelly MoldThe perfect jellied cranberry sauce needs the perfect mold. A mold with intricate designs or bold ridges will show off the sauce’s firmly-gelled texture here, and provide a wow moment on your holiday table. If, like me, you collect vintage copper Jell-O molds, this is the perfect excuse to use one. As long as the mold holds two to three cups in volume, most molds—even those with a very intricate design—will work well here, and I encourage you to use your most specular vessel.
Serious Eats / Afton CyrusIf you don’t have any specialty molds on hand, no problem! A simple, two-cup bowl works well too. My penchant for nostalgia also led me to wonder if I could use a clean, 15-ounce empty can as a mold, achieving the same look as store-bought canned cranberry jelly. Indeed, the sauce gelled perfectly in the can and released with those iconic ridges intact, so purists really can have it all.
My Advice for Unmolding the JellyYou’ve methodically prepared and waited patiently for your cranberry sauce to firm into the perfect solid jiggly mass, but now you’ve got to somehow get it out of its mold in one solid piece. To get your sauce to unmold cleanly from its vessel (no matter what type you use), you need to release the suction that forms between the sauce and the mold. Once this suction is successfully loosened, the jelly should pop out in one fell swoop.
The best way to ensure this is to very gently run a small offset spatula or butter knife around the edges and down the sides of the mold, just enough to break the seal. If, after trying this, it still sticks to the mold after flipping over, try rapping the plate and mold firmly on the counter to encourage it to release, and/or tip the mold up slightly and again run your spatula or butter knife up along one side of the mold until it releases, trying not to mar the surface of the sauce. You should hear that signature “thhhhwap,” similar to the canned sauce.
Serious Eats / Vy TranI don’t recommend dipping the mold into hot water in efforts to loosen the jelly from the mold; while doing this will help the jelly unmold easily, when warmed, even just for a few seconds, the exterior of the jelly may soften back into a liquid, causing the mixture to lose its molded definition and pool around the bottom once flipped. You might be left with cranberry soup instead of cranberry sauce!
Whether intricately molded or molded in a can and then sliced into those nostalgic circles, this easy and delicious jellied cranberry sauce is worthy of your from-scratch effort.
Serious Eats / Vy TranPlace two small plates in the freezer to chill. In a large saucepan, combine cranberries and water. Bring to boil over medium-high heat.
Serious Eats / Vy TranReduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally with a rubber spatula, until cranberries soften and skins burst, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.
Serious Eats / Vy TranSet a food mill over a large heatproof bowl. Process cranberry mixture through food mill, discarding skins. (If you don’t have a food mill, transfer mixture to a blender and blend until smooth, then strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl.)
Serious Eats / Vy TranReturn cranberry purée to now-empty saucepan. Stir in sugar and orange zest and/or ginger (if using) and stir to combine. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pot often, until mixture thickens and reaches 217 to 221°F (103 to 105°C) on an instant-read thermometer, 10 to 15 minutes(mixture may spatter as it cooks down; reduce heat to medium-low if needed). Skim and remove any foam that rises to the top while cooking. Remove from heat.
Serious Eats / Vy TranTo test if jelly is set, spoon about 1 teaspoon sauce onto chilled plate. Return to freezer for 1 minute to cool to room temperature. Run your finger through mixture on plate; if clear trail is left behind without closing up and mixture wrinkles when pushed, then the sauce is set. If not, return mixture to boil and continue to cook until thickened, 2 to 5 minutes, then repeat plate test with remaining chilled plate.
Serious Eats / Vy TranPour cranberry sauce into 2-cup mold, small 2-cup capacity bowl, or a clean, empty 15-ounce can.Let cool at room temperature until just warm, about 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Vy TranCover sauce with plastic wrap and transfer to refrigerator. Chill until firm, at least 4 hours.
Serious Eats / Vy TranWhen ready to serve, remove plastic wrap, then run a small offset spatula or butter knife down sides of mold to gently loosen sauce from edges of mold and break suction. Place a flat plate or platter on top of mold. Invert quickly to release sauce, rapping plate or platter sharply on counter if needed to release. (If cranberry sauce still sticks in mold, re-invert, gently loosen sides, and try again.) Slice if desired and serve.
Serious Eats / Vy TranSpecial EquipmentLarge saucepan, rubber spatula, food mill (or blender and fine-mesh strainer), instant-read thermometer, 2-cup jelly mold (or small bowl or clean, empty 15-ounce can)
NotesIf you’re using frozen cranberries, there’s no need to thaw them before cooking.
Warm spices like cinnamon, allspice, cloves, or cardamom also pair well with cranberry sauce. If you’d like to add a spice to this dish, either in combination with the orange or ginger or alone, start by adding 1/4 teaspoon of a ground spice at the beginning of step 4, taste at the end of that step, and add more as desired. Spice blends like pumpkin pie spice, apple pie spice, five-spice powder, or garam masala would all be fun here as well.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe sauce can be made through the end of step 7 and refrigerated for up to 4 days before serving.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyMy first outdoor pizza oven was the Ooni Koda 16. I still remember my husband excitedly firing it up and the magnificent corn, scallion, and Parmesan Neapolitan-style pizzas we baked in it. The crusts were puffy and chewy, and the bottoms had that coveted leopard spotting. It waseasy to use, and the 16-inch opening made it a cinch to launch, turn, and retrieve each pie.
While bigger isn’t always better, Ooni recently launched a behemoth version of my beloved Koda 16: the Ooni Koda 2 Max. This whopper of a pizza oven is 24 inches wide, comes with two pizza stones, and sports a dual-burner gas system. This theoretically allows for endless possibilities and combinations, like pan pizza on one side at medium heat and Neapolitan on the other at high heat (though that sounds stressful). It also makes it easy to launch and turn pizza or cook multiple pizzas at once.
To see if this giant oven is worth the space and $1,000 price, I fired it up, burned through a tank of propane, and made tons of pizza, including Neapolitan, Roman, and Detroit-style pies.
The TestsWe used an infrared thermometer to take the temperature of the left, center, and right side of the oven.Serious Eats / Grace Kelly Heat Test: I timed how long the Ooni Koda took to reach its highest temperature with both burners on full blast. I used an infrared thermometer to gauge the temperature of the stones and compared it to the stated temperature on the display screen and the Ooni Connect app. * Neapolitan Pizza Test: With the oven at its highest heat setting, I made Neapolitan pizzas, noting how easy it was to launch, turn, and retrieve each pie. * Roman-Style Pizza Test: I made thin, crispy Roman-style pizza scrocchiarella to see if I could control the oven’s temperature and not bake up blackened pies. * Dual Pizza Test: I fired up the oven and adjusted the temperatures on both sides to bake two different styles of pizzas: Detroit and Neapolitan. It was a test to see if each burner could be tuned so that one side of the oven was significantly hotter than the other. * Usability Tests:* Throughout testing, I noted how easy the oven was to set up, use, and clean.
What We Learned More Space Meant Less Stressful Throwing, Turning, and FetchingWe could even fit a Detroit pan pizza inside the Ooni's cavernous interior.Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe spaciousness of the Ooni Koda 2 Max made it easy to launch, turn, and remove pizzas.
I’ve tested a few outdoor pizza ovens and one of the most stressful parts of baking up a pie is the takeoff. If you accidentally hit the edge of the oven, the pizza ends up in a tangled heap of sauce, dough, and toppings. I’ve had it happen, and it’s a bummer.
This was not the case with this oven. It’s a mind-boggling 24 inches wide. Throwing a single 12-inch pizza in it almost felt like a waste, but at the same time, it also made the whole experience much less stressful. I could easily throw two 10-inch pizzas, then turn and retrieve them without the oven cramping my style (literally). It was even easy to sidle in a Detroit pizza pan with oven mitts.
It Heated Up Quickly The large pizza oven heated up faster than we thought.Serious Eats / Grace KellyWith a huge surface area and lots of space, I thought the oven would take forever to reach high temperatures. But it surprised me, hitting 660°F in 11 minutes—that’s pretty fast. It kept climbing and hit 850°F, where it stabilized, in about 38 minutes. This is impressive considering other much smaller ovens we’ve tested take about 30 to 40 minutes to hit this temperature. The Ooni Koda 2 Max might be large, but it’s neck and neck with smaller ovens when it comes to heating times.
…And Cooked Pizzas FastThin-crust pizzas cooked up in a mere 22 to 30 seconds.Serious Eats / Grace KellyThin Neapolitan pizzas cooked up in a lickety-split 22 seconds. I actually should have turned the temperature down a bit after throwing the pies, since I ended up with a few ashy pepperoni. Instead, I tried using my turner peel to shield the top, but the oven’s heat retention and firepower were so good that it didn’t do much to protect the thin slices of cured meat. Don’t be like me: Turn that heat down a little after launching so your toppings don’t scorch. The Detroit pizza also cooked quite quickly, in about 12 minutes at a lower temperature.
Let’s Talk About Its Dual Burner System Two burners theoretically gives you more control over each side of the pizza oven.Serious Eats / Grace KellyA big part of what makes the Ooni Koda 2 Max unique is its dual burner system. When I was doing background research, I kept reading about how it lets you cook wildly different things at once. And if you’re searing a steak on one side and want to char some veg on the other, I get it. But I was skeptical in the case of pizzas: Who is going to sling Neapolitan pizzas at the same time as a pan pizza? But, for science, I gave it a go and cooked a Detroit pizza on one side and threw a few Neapolitan pies on the other. The results were fantastic: The Neapolitan pizzas were nicely charred and the Detroit pie had the requisite crispy edges and bottom and chewy, tender crumb. That said, adjusting the dual burners to wildly different temperatures—aiming for 550°F for the Detroit pizza and 850°F for the Neapolitan—proved impossible. I wound up throwing the Neapolitan at around 740°F on the right side, while the left side hovered at 700°F for the Detroit. While it’s a big oven, it’s difficult to get one side super hot and the other a more middling temperature.
The Thermometer Was Fairly Accurate We were surprised with how relatively accurate the internal thermometer was.Serious Eats / Grace KellyMost built-in thermometers—be they on a grill, pellet smoker, or in this case, pizza oven—are inaccurate. That’s why I was surprised that the one on the Ooni was pretty on point during my heat test. Nine minutes in, the onboard display said the temperature was 525°F. My infrared thermometer readings were 530°F on the left, 545°F in the center, and 526°F on the right, for an average of 534°F, which was only nine degrees off. While this was impressive, I’d still invest in an infrared thermometer for utmost accuracy when baking pizzas.
The App Has PotentialThe app would be fantastic if its connectivity and range were better.Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe pizza oven connects to the Ooni app, which displays real-time temperatures for each side of the oven. This theoretically lets you set the oven up and go inside to prep, while still being able to monitor temps. It would be a fantastic feature if it didn’t disconnect immediately after I stepped foot inside. While it’s good if you’re puttering around the backyard near the oven, I wish I could see the oven temps from a greater distance.
The VerdictIf you LOVE making outdoor pizzas and have the money and space to allow for it, the Ooni Koda 2 Max is a great oven. It heated up quickly considering its massive size, and the spacious opening and cooking area made throwing pizzas stress-free. The proof was in the pudding too: It baked up fantastic Neapolitan, Roman, and Detroit-style pizzas.
That said, if you only see yourself making pizzas outside once in a while, I recommend a smaller, less pricey Ooni oven. Also, while the dual-zone temperature control was nice in theory, I don’t know how useful it is in practice unless you want to deal with the drama of throwing two pizzas at once.
But, overall, it’s a fantastic outdoor pizza oven that heats up quickly, bakes killer pizzas, and feels roomy doing it.
The ProsThe Ooni Koda 2 Max was easy to set up, ignited quickly, and climbed to 860°F in 38 minutes, which is quite impressive considering it’s so large. Its wide cooking surface and gaping opening also made it easy to throw and retrieve pizzas. It cooked thin-crust pizzas blisteringly fast, in about 22 seconds, and gave them lovely leopard-spotted undercarriages. It also baked up a perfectly cooked, crispy-edged Detroit pan pizza, showcasing its versatility. Overall, it’s a fantastic pizza oven that does its job well.
The ConsMake no bones about it, it’s expensive. It’s also huge, and I’d recommend having a large, heatproof outdoor table to set it on. It burned through propane quickly, and having a spare tank on hand was useful. The dual burners were a nice feature, but I did find it difficult to home in on wildly different temperatures. Finally, I would have loved it if the app and oven had better long-range connectivity—as it was, it dropped the signal every time I went inside.
Key Specs Internal width: 24 inches * External dimensions: 29 x 16.5 x 25.5 inches * Maximum temperature: 950°F * Fuel type: Propane * Warranty: 5 years * Features: App connectivity, digital temperature hub, dual burner setup * Comes with:* Two stones, two burners, two probe thermometers
FAQsWhat is the difference between the Ooni Koda and the Ooni Koda 2 Max?The Ooni Koda comes in two sizes: 12 and 16 inches. Both of these ovens have a single stone and a single burner. The Ooni Koda 2 Max is 24 inches and sports two burners and two pizza stones.
Can the Ooni Koda 2 Max be used indoors?No, the Ooni Koda 2 Max runs on propane or natural gas, and should only be used outside or in a well-ventilated area.
Why We’re the Experts* Grace Kelly is a commerce editor at Serious Eats and has been testing kitchen equipment for almost three years. * She tested the Ooni Koda 2 Max over the course of a month, using it to make Neapolitan, Roman, and Detroit-style pizzas.
Editor’s note: We received a press sample of the Ooni Koda 2 Max, but all of our opinions are our own.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeIf you've ever looked at a chocolate pie and thought to yourself, "I wish this had more chocolate," then Mississippi mud pie is for you. Each of its three mouthwatering layers—crunchy chocolate cookie crust, fudgy brownie center, and creamy pudding top—features an eye-bulging amount of chocolate. And while the different layers of this intense chocolate pie aresaid to be named for the Mississippi River’s silty bottom, there’s nothing muddy about its flavor or texture.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeTo create this mighty chocolate experience, our Birmingham, Alabama-based test kitchen colleague Elizabeth Mervosh baked pie after pie before landing on this chocolate-laden recipe below. Here’s how to perfect each layer in this delightfully indulgent chocolate dessert.
The Perfect Crispy Chocolate Crust Requires Just Three IngredientsThis effortless chocolate cookie crust relies on just three ingredients—cookie crumbs made from chocolate sandwich cookies (such as Oreos), melted butter, and salt—to deliver a crust that's pleasantly sweet and rich in flavor. Simply pulse chocolate cookies in a food processor, then combine the crumbs, butter, and a bit of salt in a bowl, and finally press the mixture evenly into a pie plate.
We like using store-bought or homemade Oreo cookies. In our tests, we found it best (and easiest) to keep the filling with the cookies—the filling enhances the crust's creamy texture, making it easier to press and mold into the pie plate. Or if you prefer, you can use the same weight of unfilled chocolate wafers, such as Nabisco brand, though the crust will be slightly less rich and sweet.
A Brownie Layer With a Rich Flavor but Light TextureWe wanted a brownie layer that was rich and fudgy, but that was also light enough in texture that it was easy to break off bite-size pieces with a fork once baked—after all, you don't want to have to slice each individual bite of pie with a knife. The trick to getting this lighter texture with our brownies is whipping the eggs until they have tripled in volume and have the texture of runny marshmallows before folding them into the batter. This whipped egg mixture leavens the brownie layer and gives it an airy texture that pairs well with the other layers in the pie.
While we wanted our brownie batter to bake up light and fluffy, we still wanted it to have that signature brownie chew. Our tests revealed that the secret to the perfect chewy texture boils down to one thing: fat—specifically the ratio of saturated to unsaturated fat. By using both butter (a predominantly saturated fat) and vegetable oil (an unsaturated fat) in an approximately one–to-one ratio, we are able to produce a brownie layer with a satisfying chew that’s still soft enough to run a fork through.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeTo intensify the brownie’s chocolaty punch, in addition to using melted bittersweet chocolate in the brownie layer, we added cocoa powder to the mix: Ounce for ounce, cocoa powder has more cocoa solids—and thus more chocolate flavor—than any other type of chocolate, so a mere three tablespoons greatly enhances the brownie layer’s flavor without creating the denser texture that using additional melted chocolate would result in.
The Creamiest Chocolate PuddingOn top of the fudgy brownie is a light, creamy chocolate pudding. Instead of whisking the pudding mixture together on the stovetop, as most traditional pudding recipes do, here the pudding is pulsed and combined until smooth in a food processor. As the hot cream mixture is slowly poured into the chopped chocolate mixture in processor, the sharp blade guarantees every bit of chocolate blends into the mixture for the smoothest pudding possible.
The pie filling gets its rich flavor from—you guessed it—even more chocolate, in the form of bittersweet chocolate. We recommend skipping the chips and instead use a high quality bar chocolate with about 64 to 70% cacao. Chocolate chips often contain stabilizers like soy lecithin that prevent them from melting fully—that's great in chocolate chip cookies, but not so much in a pudding. So for a creamy, smooth chocolate pudding, you’re better off starting with a bar and chopping it yourself. And finally, to safeguard your pudding's creamy texture and to make sure you don't end up with scrambled eggs, remember to temper the egg yolks so they don’t curdle by slowly pouring the hot cream mixture into the food processor while running.
Whipped Cream Makes Almost Everything BetterWe love the juxtaposition of the dense chocolate pie with fluffy whipped cream topping. And for a decorative and appropriately Southern finish, we recommend sprinkling the pie with crunchy pecans. If you're not a fan of nuts, top the pie with simple chocolate shavings, crushed chocolate cookies, or absolutely nothing at all.
For the Crust: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350ºF (175ºC). In a food processor, process cookie pieces and salt until fine crumbs form, about 30 seconds. Add melted butter to cookie mixture and pulse until crumbs begin to clump together, about 4 pulses. Transfer mixture to 9-inch pie plate. Using your fingers, press mixture into bottom and up the sides of the pie plate, then compress firmly using a flat-bottomed drinking glass or measuring cup. Keep pressing until the crumbs form a compact, even layer across the bottom of the baking dish. Wash and dry food processor bowl; set aside.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeBake until just set, 10 to 12 minutes. Crust may puff slightly while baking; if necessary, gently press down with a flat-bottomed drinking glass or measuring cup immediately after baking. Let cool slightly on a wire rack, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeFor the Brownie Layer: Fill a small saucepan with 1 inch water and bring to a simmer over medium heat. In a heat-proof bowl large enough to nest in the saucepan without touching the water, combine chocolate, butter, and oil. Set bowl over the saucepan and cook, stirring occasionally, until melted and smooth, about 2 minutes. (Alternatively, place chocolate, butter, and oil in a large microwave-safe bowl. Microwave chocolate mixture on medium power in 30-second intervals, stirring thoroughly between intervals, until melted and smooth, 2 minutes total.) Remove from heat and let stand until slightly cooled, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeIn a second large bowl, beat eggs, sugar, vanilla, and salt with a hand mixer on medium-high speed until pale yellow and tripled in volume, about 5 minutes. (Alternatively, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat eggs, sugar, vanilla, and salt on medium-high speed until pale yellow and tripled in volume, 3 to 5 minutes.) Using a flexible spatula, fold 1/3 egg mixture into slightly cooled chocolate mixture. Gently fold in remaining egg mixture in 2 batches until no streaks remain.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeUsing a fine-mesh sieve, sift flour and cocoa powder into chocolate mixture. Using a flexible spatula, fold dry ingredients into chocolate until just combined. Scrape batter into cooled crust, using a flexible or offset spatula to spread it into an even layer. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out with several moist crumbs attached, about 18 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack for 1 hour, then refrigerate until completely cool, about 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeFor the Chocolate Pudding: In the now-clean food processor bowl, process chocolate, brown sugar, espresso granules (if using), and salt until finely ground, about 20 seconds. Add yolks and vanilla extract; pulse until thoroughly combined and chocolate mixture begins to clump together, about 5 pulses.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeIn a small saucepan, bring cream to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. With food processor running, slowly and carefully pour hot heavy cream through chute until chocolate mixture is melted and smooth, about 35 seconds, stopping to scrape down sides as needed. Pour pudding over brownie layer and gently press plastic wrap against surface of pudding. Refrigerate until completely chilled and set, at least 2 hours or up to 2 days.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeFor the Whipped Cream: In a large bowl, whip cream, sugar, and vanilla together using a hand mixer on medium speed until mixture holds medium-stiff peaks, 1 to 2 minutes. (Alternatively, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip cream, sugar, and vanilla together on medium speed until mixture holds medium-stiff peaks, about 1 to 3 minutes.) Using a flexible or offset spatula, spread whipped cream over chocolate pudding layer and garnish with chopped pecans.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeSpecial EquipmentFood processor, 9-inch pie plate, hand mixer or stand mixer, fine-mesh sieve, plastic wrap, flexible or offset spatula
NotesWhile we love the rich flavor espresso powder adds to the pudding and the way it intensifies the chocolate, it can be omitted in a pinch if you don't have it on hand.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe crust can be baked, then cooled, covered, and refrigerated up to 3 days ahead.
The brownie layer can be assembled and baked through step 5 and refrigerated, covered, for up to 2 days.
The finished pie can be prepared through step 7 and refrigerated, covered, for up to 2 days. Top with the whipped cream and pecans right before serving.
Serious EatsFor kitchen gear nerds like us, Black Friday is the ideal time to make the knife upgrades we’ve been eyeing all year or grab stocking stuffers for fellow food lovers. Amazon officially announced its upcoming Black Friday sale, which falls on Friday, November 29 this year. Lucky for us, Amazon deals will actually be available starting Thursday, November 21. We're just so darn excited about all the tools and gadgets to be acquired that we’ve already found early Black Friday deals at Amazon, with up to 57% off tested favorites like this Le Creuset Dutch oven, the Breville Barista Express Impress espresso machine, and more. Take a peek at these early deals and read our FAQ section to get the scoop on this year’s Black Friday details.
Early Black Friday Deals, at a Glance: The Best Beginner-Friendly Espresso Machine: Breville Barista Express Impress Espresso Machine * The Most Powerful Blender: Vitamix 5200 Blender * The Best Dutch Oven: Le Creuset 5.5-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Dutch Oven * Our Longtime Favorite Cast Iron Pan: Lodge 10-inch Cast Iron Skillet * The Best Grill Basket: OXO Obsidian Pre-Seasoned Carbon Steel Grill Basket * Our Favorite Budget Chef’s Knife: Mercer 8-Inch Chef’s Knife * The Sharpest Bread Knife: Tojiro Japan Bread Knife * The Most Accurate Kitchen Scale: OXO Good Grips Food Scale * A Delightful Pepper Mill: Peugeot Manual Adjustable Pepper Grinder * The Best Budget Wireless Meat Thermometer:* ThermoPro TP20 Wireless Meat Thermometer
FAQsWhen is Black Friday?Black Friday happens on the Friday after Thanksgiving. This year, Black Friday 2024 falls on Friday, November 29, though we’ll also report on the best early Black Friday deals to shop and get ahead of the crowds. In fact, Black Friday deals will be available on Amazon as soon as Thursday, November 21.
When does Black Friday end?While Black Friday is technically a one-day event, there are plenty of Black Friday-level deals throughout the holiday weekend and into Cyber Monday and Cyber Week. There are even early Black Friday deals we’ll report on that you can catch well before Black Friday even begins.
What other kitchen deals should I explore?We have a guide on the best fall sales at Amazon right now and several gift guides, from stocking stuffers to the best gifts for bakers.
Breville Barista Express Impress Espresso MachineAmazonThis espresso machine is $100 off and has a built-in grinder, an automatic coffee dosing system, and an assisted tamping lever that ensures the perfect pressure on your espresso puck every time. Plus, the integrated steam wand is easy to use and produces smooth, silky microfoam. We enjoyed using it so much we named it the most beginner-friendly espresso machine.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonVitamix 5200 BlenderAmazonBe it ice, kale, or almonds, the Vitamix 5200 can blend it all without showing any signs of difficulty. This long-time favorite blender has topped our reviews for ten years and counting because of its powerful motor and simple control dial. From smoothies to margaritas, the 5200 blends best. Grab it for $100 off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreLe Creuset 5.5-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Dutch OvenAmazonWe’ve recommended the Le Creuset Dutch oven for years. It excels at stewing, braising, baking, and more, thanks to its even heat retention and distribution. The light enamel interior is easy to clean and resists stains no matter what we’ve cooked in it. Right now, it’s $108 off.
Lodge 10-inch Cast Iron SkilletAmazonThis $20 Lodge pan has long been our favorite cast iron skillet due to its excellent heat conduction. It sears steaks to golden brown perfection and releases evenly baked cornbread without any tearing. Plus, it can fry an egg as if it’s a nonstick pan and comes ready to use straight out of the box.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyOXO Obsidian Pre-Seasoned Carbon Steel Grill BasketAmazonWhether you’re grilling vegetables or shrimp, achieving a crispy texture with flavorful charis easy with this grill basket, according to our tests. It keeps foods contained yet has large enough holes to evenly heat the contents. The removable handle also makes it easy to close the hood of the grill over the basket.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyMercer 8-Inch Chef’s KnifeAmazonA chef’s knife that can slice and dice smoothly, the now-$39 Mercer Genesis 8-inch knife is comfortable to hold. It’s a great blade for beginners and experts alike and can be used daily on a variety of kitchen tasks, from slicing tomatoes to carving and dicing pineapple.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonTojiro Japan Bread KnifeAmazonThe Tojiro bread knife is truly a joy to use—it slices through the crustiest of breads like butter. Through three rounds of testing, the Tojiro has remained our top pick thanks to its thin and flexible blade that’s light yet sturdy enough to cut through dense loaves. The serrated edge also makes it possible to slice through softer breads and tomatoes.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerOXO Good Grips Food ScaleAmazonFor five years and counting, we’ve recommended the OXO Good Grips food scale. With the ability to weigh up to 11 pounds, the OXO scale can accommodate many types food and even has a pull-out display in case you’re using larger vessels. We also appreciate its power-saving standby mode that can hold onto the most recent measurement for up to 15 minutes.
Peugeot Manual Adjustable Pepper GrinderAmazonThis easy-to-use pepper mill is comfortable to hold and a pleasure to twist. It produces consistent flakes of cracked pepper and smoothly adjusts between levels of coarseness. It’s especially worth grabbing right now at 34% off.
Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinThermoPro TP20 Wireless Meat ThermometerAmazonWith a certain turkey-centric holiday coming up, it’ll be more important than ever to have a reliable wireless meat thermometer on hand. A wireless thermometer is especially useful if you’re going to be multitasking and need to simply set a goal temperature and let your roast do its thing. The ThermoPro is our top budget pick since it gives accurate temperature reports and is super easy to use with its clear displays and control buttons.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWhy We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer with Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * An has been testing kitchen gear with Serious Eats for two years (and counting) and writes about trending sales for a living.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn the cold months of winter there’s nothing I love more than burrowing my spoon into a warm, custardy bread pudding. Classic bread pudding wins the dessert game on multiple fronts: it's easy, comforting, crowd pleasing, and can be largely made ahead. My stand-by recipe, which I've perfected over years of testing and honing, features chunks of toasted bread tossed in a vanilla- and cinnamon-scented custard, then layered in a casserole dish and baked until it's pillowy and moist inside with a sweet, buttery, and shatteringly crisp top. It’s cozier than any chunky cable-knit sweater I own.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezA Brief History of Bread PuddingThe origins of bread pudding go as far back as the early 11th century in Britain when creative, penny-wise cooks sought to find a use for stale bread. By the 13th century, bread pudding—or "poor man's pudding," because of its popularity amongst England's lower classes—was firmly in the British culinary canon. These early versions of bread pudding were not as luxurious as the kind we know today. Instead of the custardy mixture of cream and eggs with stale bread we love in modern versions, iterations from centuries past were typically made with bread soaked in hot water and squeezed dry before being mixed with sugar and spices and then baked.
Eliza Smith's 1728 The Compleat Housewife was one of the first cookbooks to feature a custard-based traditional bread pudding recipe. Her version featured "a two penny loaf, and a pound of fresh butter,” along with cream, egg yolks, raisins, and currants.
Nowadays, bread pudding has shed its "poor man's pudding" moniker and elaborate versions are found in restaurants all over the world. But oftentimes contemporary versions of bread pudding are disappointing, varying in texture from mushy, sweetened porridge to the chewy, desiccated cousin of overcooked holiday stuffing. The bread pudding I love has a lightly sweetened, creamy (but not eggy) interior and a crisp top crust. It's a version I've prepared at many restaurants as well as family gatherings. Here’s how to make it at home.
The Best Bread for Bread PuddingTechnically this is a “use any kind of bread” recipe, but I strongly encourage you to use an eggy enriched loaf such as brioche or challah. They’re firm but tender enough to absorb the custard without disintegrating, and their eggy, rich flavor pairs perfectly with the custard. I’ve tested this recipe with ciabatta, a rustic French boule, and even a baguette and these versions still work fairly well, but the drier, more airy loaves absorb less of the custard, resulting in a slightly chewier bread pudding.
While the early versions of the humble dish relied on stale leftover bread, that’s not the case with this recipe. Here I call for so much bread (more than a pound) that unless you own or work at a bakery, it's unlikely you'll have that much stale bread lying around. Plus, as our Editorial Director Daniel discovered when developing his quick-and-easy French toast recipe, bread pudding is likewise better when it's made with oven-dried bread rather than stale bread. Oven drying the bread delivers the best textures: super crisp and toasty on the outside, while yielding (but not mushy) within. Plus toasting at a steady low oven temperature of 275°F while occasionally stirring the bread cubes guarantees every piece of bread is properly dried out.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Key Ingredients for a Creamy, Perfectly Sweet Custard for Bread PuddingThis custard gets its rich, silky texture from a combination of whole eggs and additional yolks, along with equal parts milk and heavy cream (or half and half). What begins as a runny mixture that soaks into the bread slowly becomes a velvety custard as the egg yolks cook, coagulate, and thicken. As we point out in our crème Anglaise recipe, egg proteins are made of strands that are tightly bound together when the egg is raw, but when they warm up in the milk and cream, they unfold and detach, and when the mixture reaches 165ºF to 180ºF they will reattach, solidify, and thicken into a smooth custard sauce that enriches the bread.
Because of its relatively neutral flavor, the custard base can also be flavored countless ways by whisking in spices, citrus zest, coffee, or even more. For this basic bread pudding, I kept the seasonings simple. Vanilla extract, ground cinnamon, and nutmeg give this dessert a subtly sweet and warm spiced note. I recommend adding just a teaspoon of orange zest (my favorite) or lemon zest to the custard. The citrus brightens the pudding and balances its rich flavor.
Why You Should Soak the Bread in the Custard Before BakingMany bread pudding recipes call for tossing the bread with the prepared custard, then transferring the bread to the casserole dish and baking right away or even just pouring the custard over the dry bread in a baking dish. But with both of these methods, once the pudding hits the heat of the oven, the custard starts setting before it has a chance to soak into the bread properly, which results in bread chunks that unevenly absorb the custard, leaving some bites unpleasantly dry and crusty and others overly mushy once baked. But briefly soaking the bread in the custard mixture before baking guarantees that every inch of the bread is saturated so that once baked, it is pillowy soft from edge to edge.
Create a Crisp ToppingIt’s inevitable that the oven will dry out the surface of the top pieces of bread as it bakes. To combat this, I decided to offset some of that dryness by brushing the top with melted butter and a sprinkle of cinnamon sugar before baking. The result is a fragrant, sweet, and pleasantly crunchy crust that contrasts nicely with the tender, custardy interior.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSome Great Variations for Bread PuddingOne of my favorite things about this bread pudding recipe is how versatile it is—feel free to experiment! While it’s wonderful in its simplest form without any additions, feel free to stud it with raisins and toasted pecans or any dried fruit or crunchy nut you prefer. You can even add a half cup of fresh fruit, such as raspberries or sliced bananas, into the mix. Not a cinnamon or nutmeg fan? Swap one or both of them for other warm spices, such as allspice, or cardamom. This recipe is extremely forgiving and adaptable to whatever you're craving (or have on hand). However you adapt it, make sure to serve the bread pudding warm—and if you really want to gild the lily, drizzle it with crème Anglaise or a big ol’ scoop of ice cream.
Adjust oven rack to middle position. Heat oven to 275°F (130°C). On a rimmed baking sheet, spread bread in an even layer and bake, rotating sheet and stirring bread cubes several times during baking, until bread is completely dried, but not browned or changed in color, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside to cool.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large bowl, add eggs, egg yolks, granulated sugar, vanilla extract or scraped vanilla seeds, citrus zest, if using, and salt and whisk to combine. Whisk in cream and milk (or half and half) until combined. Stir in bread and dried fruit and/or nuts, if using, and let sit, pressing down on bread occasionally, for 5 minutes. Stir gently to combine, ensuring the cubes of bread left unsubmerged on the top are now submerged on the bottom, and press gently on bread occasionally until bread is saturated and custard is mostly absorbed, about 5 minutes more.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCarefully transfer mixture to a 13- by 9-inch baking dish and gently press cubes into custard. Using a pastry brush, dab melted butter over top of bread.
In a small bowl, combine the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar and remaining 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon and sprinkle the cinnamon-sugar mixture evenly over top.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPlace bread pudding on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until custard has just set, top is lightly browned and crisp, and pressing center of pudding with finger reveals no runny liquid, about 30 minutes. (An instant-read thermometer inserted into center of pudding should read about 170℉; 75℃.) Transfer to wire rack and cool until pudding is set, about 30 minutes. Serve warm.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment13 by 9-inch baking dish
NotesYou can substitute the heavy cream and milk for 1 quart (.95L) half and half.
Make-Ahead and StorageYou can assemble the pudding through step 3 up to 2 days ahead and store it, covered, in the refrigerator. Pop it into the oven at 350℉ (175°C) and bake until hot, 1 or 2 hours before you want to serve it.
Once cooled, leftover bread pudding can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Reheat covered with aluminum foil in the oven at 350℉ (175°C) until warmed through. Remove foil an continue baking until top is crisp, about 10 additional minutes.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyFor years, a butane kitchen torch was something I talked myself out of buying. I’d eat crème brûlée at a restaurant, get a hankering for it at home, and add a butane torch to my Amazon cart. Then, I’d hem and haw and decide it was a “want” rather than a “need.” As a gear tester, my kitchen (and basement and garage) are already overflowing with stuff. But then I tested cocktail smokers, one of which came with a small kitchen torch, and the clouds lifted: I should’ve bought a torch sooner.
Why I Love My Butane TorchFirst of all, a butane kitchen torch is essential to get that crackling, crunchy sugar crust on crème brûlée. Sure, a broiler will do the job in a pinch, but I’ve never gotten that candy-like, hard sugar layer with that method. But a butane torch’s uses go far beyond this one task.
We’ve written about how a torch is a great way to get wok hei flavor at home—a method contributor Tim Chin cleverly calls “torch hei.” He writes, “At first whiff, I could detect those tell-tale aromas of a legit stir fry: the greens were smoky, singed, faintly charred in all the right ways. Overall, I thought I'd achieved a worthy approximation of wok hei.”
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn addition to wok cooking, I’ve also turned to my kitchen torch to zhuzh up ingredients. I use it to brûlée fruit, transforming a banana split into a caramelized, brûléed banana split—fancy! It’s also great for searing fish for sushi, resulting in a nice char without cooking the fish through. Beyond this, it has a slew of useful applications: Have a midnight craving for s’mores? Use a butane torch to toast the marshmallows. Is the cheese on your burger still a bit solid? Blast it with a torch so it gets bubbly and melty. Taking forever to light briquettes in your charcoal chimney? A butane torch can help the newspaper catch.
Oh, and back to cocktail smokers, which is how I first discovered the butane torch-shaped hole in my life. If you buy my favorite budget-friendly cocktail smoker, you’ll need a butane torch to light it (like this one). I tried igniting the wood chips with a regular lighter, and all I got was a trickle of smoke. Then I broke out the butane torch and boom, smoke blasted into my cup with all the force and smoky power of one of the four horsemen of the apocalypse.
In short, a butane torch lets you have fun in the kitchen, opening the door for caramelized and seared edible delights without having to turn on the burner or oven.
How to Safely Use a TorchSerious Eats / Grace KellyAll that said, with great (fire) power comes great responsibility. I’ve done some questionable things with my butane torch, namely, holding a big ‘n puffy marshmallow while torching it—bad idea. Instead, take care when aiming the powerful flame, and don’t light it up near anything flammable. Keep it away from a stove top burner if you have a gas range—accidents happen and this isn’t an accident you want to mess with. Also, make sure the torch’s safety lock is engaged when it’s not in use. It’d be a bad time if you accidentally hit the trigger while it’s stored in the drawer.
Why We’re the Experts* Grace Kelly is a commerce editor at Serious Eats, where she’s been testing gear for more than two years. * After getting a butane torch to test cocktail smokers, she fell in love with this kitchen gadget and uses it to toast marshmallows and brûlée fruit, among other things.
Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnCookie presses are a revered baking tool. Many homebakers covet their grandmother's vintage press that turned out perfect butter cookies and Christmas mints year after year.
I only remember my mom’s cookie press as a space hog in the back of a kitchen cabinet; She bought it at a Pampered Chef party, used it once, and it never saw the light of day again. Had I any foresight that I’d build a career as a baker and food writer, I would have held onto that well-made classic. My own family loves holiday cookie baking and my extended Southern family has taught me the fine art of making cheese straws at any time of year. Needless to say, I’ve spent a fair bit of my adult life looking for the perfect cookie press. I’ve used them in professional kitchens and test kitchens for years and finally set off on a quest to test seven of the highest-rated cookie presses available to find the very best.
The Winners, at a GlanceOXO’s cookie press was the easiest to use and clean up. It has a non-slip grip on the end to make your fingers less likely to shift while pressing cookies and its metal discs yield clean shapes even on the most intricate designs.
If you’re baking more than a few batches of cheese straws or spritz cookies a year and need something super durable, Marcato Design’s stainless steel press is for you. While it had a larger margin of error for the first few cookies and was harder to press, it features design details (like two sizes of dough dosage and 20 discs) that serious home bakers will appreciate.
This press was disappointing for spritz cookies, but it out-pressed every other model for cheese straws. This is the best tool for the job if you’re making large batches of cheese straws or similar baked goods with thick dough and long presses.
The TestsWe pressed dozens of spritz cookies.Serious Eats / Meghan Splawn Spritz Cookie Test: Using a classic spritz cookie dough, I filled each press and fitted it with a wreath-style disc. Working on an uncoated baking sheet, I used the press to pump out as many cookies as possible, noting how easily each press dispensed and how many perfect cookies I could make without mistakes. * Disc Swap Test: Partway through each batch of cookies, I removed each press’s coupler and swapped the wreath discs for a more intricate design to evaluate the ease of switching discs. * Cheese Straws Test: I made a batch of cheese straws to fill and test my favorite presses from the spritz cookie test. Since some of the presses failed immediately, I also retested two outliers (Fante’s Easy Cookie Press and the De Buyer Pastry Press) from the spritz cookie test to find a model that worked best for large batches of cheese straws. * General Use and Care Test:* While assembling and disassembling each press, I made notes on general use: Was the press easy to take apart and put together? Was the trigger easy to release? I also noted how much residual dough was left in each press after it stopped dispensing, and the ease of cleaning.
What We LearnedLever Dispensers Were Better Than Trigger DispensersFante's Easy Cookie Press worked best with long designs—like cheese straws.Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnCookie presses have three styles of dispensers: a trigger handle, a pressure lever, or a rotating handle. My two favorite presses for cookies, the OXO Good Grips Cookie Press and the Marcato Design Atlas Cookie Press, had lever-style handles that were much easier on my hands and wrists, and they were more accurate when dosing dough. Trigger-style dispensing (found on the Wilton Simple Success Cookie Press and Kuhn Rikon Clear Cookie Press) became tiring quickly. Plus, a faster squeeze dispenses less dough than a slow one, which makes each cookie as different as each baker. A rotating handle, like the one found on Fante’s Easy Cookie Press, is ideal if you want long stretches of dough to dispense things like churros and cheese straws.
Metal Discs Were Best for Intricate Designs OXO's metal discs created sharp designs on spritz cookies.Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnMuch of the joy of spritz cookies is in their shape—tree and wreath cookies really kick off a holiday cookie party—so sharp discs are an important part of a good cookie press. There are some pros and cons to alternative materials (plastic or steel) for a press’s body, but they don’t impact the cookie shape as much as disc material does. For example, a clear plastic body, like the OXO Good Grips Cookie Press, makes it easy to see how much dough is left to dispense. But a steel or aluminum body doesn’t hold onto grease during cleanup the same way plastic does. Metal discs made much tidier cookies and cheese straws than plastic ones thanks to their sharper edges. The Wilton Cookie Press and Nordic Ware Deluxe Decorating Set each had some pros during testing, but their plastic discs created looser, less intricate designs.
Wide Openings Were Helpful for Filling With DoughDon't overlook the top of a cookie press. It should be wide enough to easily fill with dough.Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnAll of the cookie presses we tested are filled at the disc end of the press, as the dispensing plunger would otherwise be in the way. While none of the presses were particularly challenging to fill, I noticed that the Nordic Ware and Kuhn Rikon presses, which have openings smaller than 2.5 inches, took the longest to fill. Our winning press, the OXO Good Grips Cookie Press, has one of the largest openings at 2.75 inches. I found that using a small cookie scoop to drop dough into the presses sped up the filling processes between batches.
Extra Disc Designs Were More Useful Than Piping TipsCookie presses with lots of discs were great for year-round baking.Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnI was excited to test the few cookie presses that included options to swap the design disc for a piping tip (the Kuhn Rikon and Nordic Ware). However, the resulting cookies were tiny and inconsistent as a result of the presses’ dispensing mechanisms. You’re much better off investing in a few piping tips and disposable piping bags for cake decorating or deviled egg filling. Save your cookie press for cookies! That said, a cookie press with lots of discs does give you more options for unique spritz cookies and other baked goods—like a star tip for churros or cheese straws.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Cookie Press Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnThe best cookie presses have a lever-style dispenser to reduce wrist strain and a wide opening for filling the press and come with at least 12 metal discs for different baked goods. A high-quality cookie press is easy to disassemble from top to bottom, making it simpler to clean. A clear plastic body is great for seeing how much dough you have left, but is not required. Ideally, your cookie press will come with a storage solution for the discs.
Our Favorite Cookie Presses What we liked: With a non-slip coating on the handle and tip, this lever-style cookie press was easy to use right out of the box. Its smaller body easily fits into the hands of most bakers. It comes with a small case for storing the discs. This is the cookie press for home bakers who make cookies or cheese straws just a few times a year.
What we didn’t like: Weirdly, this cookie press did not come with a star tip for cheese straws and churros. While I was able to use the star disc from another brand’s press to test the OXO press with cheese straws, you may want to hunt for an older model of this press or choose another press if a star disc is essential for you.
Key Specs Materials: BPA-free plastic with steel discs * Type of press: Lever-style * Number of discs: 12 * Storage included?:* Yes, for discs only
Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnWhat we liked: A worthy splurge, the Marcato Design Atlas Cookie Press is made of sturdy aluminum and has a lever-style dispenser with an adjustable dosage size. It comes with the most design discs (20) of all the presses I tested, including a sunflower, six-point star, and delicate floral wreath. This cookie press is ideal for serious home bakers who make a lot of pressed baked goods, both savory and sweet.
What we didn’t like: The body of the press is not clear, so it’s tough to know when you’re running low on dough.
Key Specs Materials: Aluminum * Type of press: Lever-style * Number of discs: 20 * Storage included?:* No
Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnWhat we liked: I’ll be frank—this was one of my least favorite cookie presses for cookies. It only has five designs to work with on its “design slider” (there are no discs) and the twist style of dispensing made for very inconsistent cookies. But while many of the other presses struggled with the thick cheese straw dough, Fante handled it beautifully. With some finessing, twist dispensing gave me lots of long, thin straws without any breakage. This is the cookie press for cheese straw enthusiasts.
What we didn’t like: The press’s length of nearly 10 inches (not including the twist handle) and weight (close to two pounds when filled) made it harder to handle. You’ll need to practice keeping the press connected to the baking sheet and working from the back of the sheet to the front in order to reduce hand fatigue and get even, straight cookies or straws.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel * Type of press: Rotating handle * Number of discs: None; this press has a sliding plate of designs * Storage included:* No
Serious Eats / Meghan SplawnThe Competition* Wilton Simple Success Cookie Press: This affordable cookie press did decidedly well with spritz cookie dough and was easy to clean. But it did not include a star tip and could barely dispense cheese straw dough. * Kuhn Rikon Clear Cookie Press: I very much appreciated the storage case that came with this press. While the metal discs helped it with details on pressed cookies, the trigger-style handle was inconsistent in dispensing. * Nordic Ware Deluxe Decorating Set: This cookie press looked, felt, and performed poorly. The plastic lever seemed like it might crack under pressure during the spritz test. * De Buyer Pastry Press: While you might see this kind of press in professional kitchens, it was cumbersome and hard to use when filled. The upright trigger dispenser was difficult to press and guide.
FAQsHow do you use a cookie press?Most cookie presses are used for dispensing creamy all-butter cookie doughs. You fill the barrel of the cookie press with dough, choose a disc in your preferred design, and set it in place before screwing on a coupler or cap. The dough is then dispensed directly onto a baking sheet using a lever or trigger. The press can be refilled many times in the baking process before being cleaned.
How do you clean a cookie press?Most cookie presses should only be hand-washed to increase their longevity. Completely disassemble the press and wash with dish soap and water, then air dry before storing. (That said, it is worth noting that my husband accidentally put all of the cookie presses I tested in the dishwasher and none were damaged in the process.)
What can you use if you don’t have a cookie press? Follow your specific recipe for advice on baking without a cookie press for the best results. Many butter cookie recipes can be piped onto parchment paper with a strong piping bag and tip; For cheese straws, the dough can be rolled out and cut into squares with a small cookie cutter.
Can you use a cookie press for frosting?In theory, yes! But not all cookie presses come with piping tips and many have a restricted dispensing mechanism that makes piping long swirls of icing nearly impossible.
Why We’re the Experts* Meghan Splawn is a freelance food writer and recipe developer who has worked in food media since 2006. * Her work includes 10 years in the test kitchen with Alton Brown. * She’s been hunting for the perfect cookie press for over 10 years and after testing four batches of spritz cookies (120 cookies!) she’s finally ready to buy herself a new one.
Serious Eats / Reese HerringtonSometimes, you get a gift so functional and beautiful that it stays with you through every life transition, from one home to another, and even across generations. As gearheads who spend every day testing kitchen equipment, from air fryers to toaster ovens, we have a few opinions on kitchen gifts that won’t just wow your loved one, but serve them well through years of use. Whether you want to get a family member their first Le Creuset Dutch oven or a super sharp and stunning utility knife they’ll use every day, we’ve rounded up some of the best kitchen gifts we could think of that will last a long time and be a pleasure to use.
Best Kitchen Gifts They Won’t Regift The Best Dutch Oven: Le Creuset 5.5-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Dutch Oven * A Cast Iron Skillet That’ll Last Decades: Lodge 10-Inch Cast Iron Skillet * The Best Toaster Oven: Breville Smart Oven Pro Toaster Oven * A Cooler for Any Adventure: Yeti Hopper Flip 18 Soft Cooler * A Beautiful Utility Knife: New West Knifeworks 6-Inch Petty Knife * Do-Anything Pasta Bowls: Le Creuset Stoneware Pasta Bowls Set * A Stainless Steel Pan From the Future: Hestan Nanobond Titanium Skillet * Our Favorite Instant-Read Thermometer: ThermoWorks Thermapen ONE * A Cleverly-Designed Cutting Board: Bernal Cutlery Hinoki Cutting Board with Stand * A Multitasking Rice Cooker: Tatung Electric Rice Cooker and Steamer*
Le Creuset 5.5-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Dutch OvenAmazonWe’re believers that a Dutch oven deserves a place in every kitchen, and Le Creuset makes one of the best ones. Le Creuset’s 5.5-quart enameled cast iron Dutch oven sears meats to a golden brown just as easily as it can gently cook stews and braises. It truly is the gift that keeps on giving, and it’s $110 off right now.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyLodge 10-Inch Cast Iron SkilletAmazonFor only $20, you could give the gift of cast iron, and what’s better than that? This Lodge cast iron skillet has been our favorite for years thanks to how well it heats up and evenly cooks foods. For everything from cornbread to fried eggs, the Lodge skillet is a piece of cookware that will last through the decades.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyBreville Smart Oven Pro Toaster OvenTargetI’ve seen many Breville toaster ovens that have been unwrapped with pure glee and gone on to feature prominently on people’s counters for years. We’ve found that this appliance churns out evenly browned toast, sizzling grilled cheeses, piping hot reheated pizza, and more. This is the kind of gift that goes on to be an integral part of anyone’s kitchen.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonYeti Hopper Flip 18 Soft CoolerYetiFor the adventurous person in your life, our favorite cooler, the Yeti Hopper Flip 18, will be a welcome gift. It has incredible cold retention and is comfortable to carry. During our tests, it kept contents cool for up to 40 hours and survived a push out of the back of a car.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmNew West Knifeworks 6-Inch Petty KnifeNew West Knife WorksEvery kitchen needs a conversation-starter knife. This six-inch petty knife from New West Knifeworks fits the bill perfectly with its colorful wooden handle—available in nine shades—that is visually striking and comfortable to hold. The blade is also something to write home about, as it's incredibly sharp and agile, making quick work of chopping onions and cutting cauliflower florets.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyLe Creuset Stoneware Pasta Bowls SetLe CreusetVersatile and practical, pasta bowls make for thoughtful gifts that your loved one will reach for daily. These shallow bowls are ideal for serving salad, rice, soup, pasta, and more. Our favorite, the Le Creuset pasta bowl set, comes in a variety of colorful glazes and is even on sale for 20% off. The bowls keep foods warm and contained thanks to their gently sloped walls, which also make it easy to pick up spaghetti or fried rice.
Serious Eats / Caroline LangeHestan Nanobond Titanium SkilletHestan CulinaryCoined the “frying pan from the future” in our stainless steel skillet review, this pan is coated in nano layers of titanium molecules that help it heat up quickly to cook and brown foods with ease. It’s a beautiful pan that we enjoyed using to sear pork chops and fry eggs, and while it’s at a steep price for a stainless steel pan, it may be worth the splurge for a holiday gift if you have a particularly design-minded cook in your life.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThermoWorks ThermaPen ONEThermoWorksWith lightning fast readings and an easy-to-adjust probe, the Thermapen ONE is the best instant-read thermometer we’ve ever tested. It also has a 360-degree auto-rotating screen so you can get an accurate temperature reading from any angle. My own Thermapen ONE was a holiday gift years ago and it’s one of my most-used kitchen tools.
Serious Eats / Irvin Lin / Amanda SuarezBernal Cutlery Hinoki Cutting Board with StandBernal CutleryIf you know someone whose kitchen knife collection is their pride and joy, you can help them keep their blades sharp with this wooden cutting board that’s made of hinoki wood. The soft cypress wood is gentle on knife edges and the natural oils in the wood help resist odors. As someone who’s been testing this cutting board for months, I can vouch that it’s easy on blades and I especially like the built-in stand that slides out to keep the board upright to dry after washing.
Acacia wood boards were slightly harder on knives and showed scratches more readily, though they were not deep.Serious Eats / Grace KellyTatung Electric Rice Cooker and SteamerYun HaiIf a rice cooker could feel like an heirloom, it would be this one. The pea green Tatung rice cooker from Yun Hai isn’t just a nostalgic machine that happens to make incredibly fluffy rice; it’s a cornerstone of Taiwanese cooking and can steam vegetables, braise meat, and, yes, steam tender breads and cakes. It can even be used to gently reheat leftovers.
Serious Eats / Alexander HuangWhy We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * An has been testing kitchen equipment for Serious Eats for two years and loves to give kitchen gear during the holidays.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonMy parents are the best, but I wouldn’t say they’re the best at cooking poultry. Take my dad: On more than one occasion, he’s undercooked chicken and we’ve sliced into it only to reveal a too-pink interior. Even more so, he’ll make a bird that’s been overcooked and far too dry for anyone’s liking. Turkey seems to vex him in particular. (I love you, dad!)
That’s why, ahead of Thanksgiving, I’ll be giving my parents the gift of accuracy in the form of this kit from ThermoWorks. The company makes many of our favorite thermometers, two of which are in this set.
ThermoworksWhy It’s GreatThe Essentials Thanksgiving Turkey Kit includes the Thermapan ONE and ChefAlarm, both of which are longtime Serious Eats favorites. The ONE is the winner of our instant-read thermometer review and features a blisteringly fast response time, a display that rotates, and an automatic backlight that’s helpful for gauging turkey’s temperature in cavernous ovens. The ChefAlarm—our favorite leave-in probe thermometer—has a heat-safe probe you can pop into your bird and an alarm to alert you when it reaches turkey’s ideal cooking temperature. The ChefAlarm is even magnetic, and I like to stick it to the front of my oven when it’s in use. Of course, both of these thermometers will help you with other Thanksgiving tasks, like baking bread or making caramel for an autumnal cheesecake.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyThe kit also includes two silicone trivets, a spatula, and a basting brush. I own the trivets and love how flexible and heat-resistant they are. I even use them as potholders! As for the other two items, I’ll just consider those bonuses—especially given that this kit’s already about $45 off.
Why We’re the Experts* Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm is the associate commerce editorial director for Serious Eats. She’s been with the site since 2021 and has been testing gear professionally for more than six years. * Riddley helped to review instant-read thermometers. * She loves her parents dearly, even when they poorly cook poultry.
Serious Eats / Inma HortasIt’s game day and you’ve been called up to play the most important position: the host. When the countdown to festivities begins, you don’t want to be that person who says they're serving snacks, only to chuck a half-eaten bag of chips on the table and call it a day. Be a hero—the kind of host who brings their guests cheer, even if they're cheering for a losing team on TV.
To help, we've put together five game-day menus for just about any scenario, including comforting classics to take your mind off of a probable loss, supersize snacks for when it's going to be an all-day nail-biter, and celebratory bites for you when you're feeling smug about a win. We also have portable options for tailgating and potlucks, as well as ambitious cooking projects for when you'd rather just stay in the kitchen and distract yourself by assembling jalapeño poppers and pizza bagel bites entirely from scratch.
The road to snack victory is right in front of you—all you have to do is take it.
Comforting Classics for Your Game-Day Gathering: Even if You're Likely to Lose, You'll at Least Win With These Fan FavoritesSerious Eats / Inma HortasTake your mind off your team being a fully lost cause with fully loaded nachos and other comfort foods that are perfect for watching sports with your hands over your eyes. This collection of recipes includes fan favorites like Buffalo wings, hot spinach and artichoke dip, and guacamole. Get a sampling below, then click through for the full menu.
9 Heavy-Hitting Game-Day Snacks for Maximum Sustenance Through Too-Close-for-Comfort MatchupsSerious Eats / Inma HortasWhen the odds are even, tame your guests’ game-day stress with these filling, large-format dishes like party-size chicken parm subs and fully-loaded poutine. Click through to our custom menu for a full array of sustaining snacks that will give you the energy for multiple overtimes and shouting at the ref through the TV.
Big Wins All Around: 10 Over-the Top Game-Day Snacks for When You're Feeling Smug About a VictorySerious Eats / Inma HortasFeeling confident? This menu is for you. We've got shrimp cocktail, bacon-wrapped figs, and more fancy-pants snacks for when you're certain you'll be celebrating your team's success. These are the dishes to reach for when there’s zero chance you’ll be photographed morosely spooning caviar onto a paper plate while your “untouchable” quarterback is sacked for the fifth time this game.
These Perfectly Portable Game-Day Snacks Are Tailor-Made for Your Next Tailgating Adventure or PotluckSerious Eats / Inma HortasOh, you have tickets? Aren't you fancy! But not knows-how-to-create-an-elaborate-sports-themed-tablescape fancy? We've got you with these recipes for pickle dip, snack mix, kettle corn, deviled eggs and more easy-to-transport dishes to take to your next tailgate. They're also great to take along to win the sports-viewing potluck at somebody else's house (somebody who doesn't mind people throwing kettle corn at their TV).
Deeply Researched Riffs on Game-Day Party Fare for When You'd Rather Just Be in the KitchenSerious Eats / Inma HortasYour field is the kitchen, and you're happy to spend your time twisting pretzels and making funnel cakes from scratch while everyone else is watching the game. That's right—this one's for you, nerds! And we're right there with you. Because no one is going to be looking at the screen when you bring in these highly impressive snacks.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinMy husband and I go camping more than most of my friends, making us the “outdoorsy” ones in our circle. But we are far from roughing it when we do. We car camp, meaning we drive up to our campsite and park. Then we set up our huge tent (suitable for six people, though there are only two of us), our queen-sized air mattress, and a camping grill. And yes, we bring along our French press and/or travel pour-over dripper because we need coffee before our big hikes! But one thing we recently added to our list of supplies for our trips is the Lavatools PT 12 Javelin thermometer.
What Makes the Lavatools Javelin Thermometer Great?As much as I love the ThermoWorks Thermapen ONE, the winner of our instant-read thermometer review, it’s expensive and not something I want to carry around in my duffel bag on a camping trip. The Lavatool PT12 is compact, at three-quarters the size of the Thermapen ONE and half its weight. With a foldable probe, it’s easy to use, and even more importantly, it’s reasonably priced at a quarter of the cost of the Thermapen ONE. So if I accidentally step on it, lose it, or drop it in the grill while I’m cooking up some chops, it won’t break the bank to replace it.
It’s also super intuitive to use. Just unfold the metal temperature probe in the back and stick it into whatever you want to measure—when I’m camping, that’s usually a piece of meat on the grill or a pot of water for coffee. The digital screen in the front quickly gives you a reading. Beyond all that, the thermometer also has a magnetic back that comes in handy at home, where I store it on the side of our microwave.
The Lavatools thermometer has a handy magnetic back, so it's easy to store when I'm not using it.Serious Eats / Irvin LinIt’s a fairly speedy read, giving an accurate temperature in about four to five seconds. It’s also IP65 splash-proof, which is great because I’m fairly clumsy in the kitchen. The thermometer also has a loop at the end, so I can attach it to a lanyard or my backpack. Not that I’ve done that, as I’m not that hardcore enough to go deep woods backpacking with a digital thermometer.
FAQsWhat makes a good probe thermometer?A probe thermometer should have a comfortable grip and be intuitive to use. It should read the temperature quickly and accurately, and it should also have a large digital display, making it easy to read.
What is the best probe thermometer?Our favorite probe thermometer is the ThermoWorks Thermapen ONE; it gives accurate readings nearly instantly, has a large light-up screen, and is easy to use. It has a grippy edge that’s comfortable to hold, and the screen rotates. The Lavatools PT12 Javelin is also a great compact budget option, ideal for travel and as a secondary thermometer in the kitchen.
How do you change the temperature to Fahrenheit on the Lavatools Javelin thermometer?The Lavatools Javelin displays temperatures in Fahrenheit or Celsius. You can change the settings by opening up the battery door by twisting it with a coin. Remove the battery to find a very small switch that allows you to change the temperature setting. Switch to whichever you prefer, then replace the battery and door.
Why We’re the Experts Irvin Lin is an avid camper and maximalist traveler, despite always trying to streamline his gear. He is also a cookbook author, recipe developer, food writer, photographer, and ceramicist. * He wrote the cookbook Marbled, Swirled, and Layered, which was picked by the New York Times* as one of the best baking cookbooks of 2016. * He runs a blog called Eat the Love, where he’s developed, photographed, and written recipes since 2010. Eat the Love was nominated twice for best food blog by the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) in 2016 and 2022. * He’s product tested and reviewed hundreds of kitchen items including instant-read thermometers, stand mixers, and saucepans.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCome fall and winter, well after juicy tomatoes have faded from market stands, winter squashes step into the spotlight to become a star ingredient in many kitchens. Although butternut squash gets more attention, acorn squash really deserves a place on your dinnertime roster—with its edible green exterior and nutty, sweet orange flesh, it's beautiful on the plate and pairs wonderfully with plenty of other vegetables. It's also mild enough to serve as an almost-blank canvas for a wide range of flavors, such as the sweet and tangy date-orange dressing it's paired with in the recipe we're sharing here from our Birmingham, Alabama-based test kitchen colleague Elizabeth Mervosh.
For this autumnal side, wedges of the sweet, creamy squash are paired with thick slices of jammy, caramelized roasted red onion, then drizzled with an orange juice– and honey-tinged vinaigrette that’s studded with dates, and finished with crunchy pistachios. The playful combination of fall flavors is not only delicious, but sure to be the most talked about dish at your next holiday gathering. (Sorry, mashed potatoes!)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn developing this recipe, it was important for us that the roasted acorn squash and onions have a tender and moist interior and sweet caramelization on the exterior—we didn't want any dry and burnt or soggy, undercooked, and tough squash and onions. To achieve the ideal texture on both vegetables, Elizabeth roasted batch after batch of acorn squash and onions and came up with this clever roasting method that ensures tender, perfectly browned vegetables every time.
Key Techniques for Perfectly Roasted Acorn Squash With OnionsCut the vegetables to an even thickness. Cutting the squash and the onions into similarly-sized wedges not only ensures an attractive presentation, but it also promotes even cooking. We found it easier to cut the squash crosswise (against the ridges of the squash) rather than along the ridges, which—bonus!—also shows off the squash's attractive fluted sides. And don’t bother attempting to peel the squash; its natural ridges make that almost impossible. Just roast it with the skin on—it's typically thin enough to eat, but if you prefer it without the skin, the meat of the squash will peel away easily from the skin once the squash is roasted.
Roast the onions and squash on separate baking sheets. Elizabeth realized early on in her testing that the onions and squash cooked at different rates. Cooking them together was a recipe for undercooked crunchy onions with tender squash, or perfectly cooked onions with mushy overcooked squash. The solution? Roasting them on separate sheet trays, which ensures the squash is tender and the onions soften evenly.
Arrange vegetables along the perimeter of the sheet pan for even roasting. Roasting on separate sheet trays still wasn’t enough to guarantee evenly browned and properly cooked vegetables. When the vegetables were just randomly scattered over the trays, they browned OK, but the browning wasn’t consistent: The slices on the edges of the pan were over-browning, while the slices in the center of the sheet were still pale. By arranging the squash and onion slices evenly around the perimeter of the baking sheet and avoiding the middle of the pan altogether, then rotating the sheet halfway through roasting, all of the slices browned well.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezStart by steaming the onions. A common problem with roasting onions is that their outer layers can dry out and turn leathery before the interior petals are tender and the bottoms well browned. We wanted roasted onions that were soft and juicy from top to bottom. To get around this problem, we started by covering the pan of onions tightly with aluminum foil, roasting them briefly—just 10 minutes—then uncovering them and letting them finish roasting while the squash cooks on the bottom rack. Covering the onions traps in their steam, and that steam is a powerful cooking medium that softens the onion’s outer layers, ensuring that the exterior peels won’t dry out.
Jumpstart the squash’s browning by preheating the baking sheet. While placing the squash around the perimeter of the sheet tray ensures even cooking, our testing showed that even when we cranked the heat up and baked the squash on the lowest oven rack (closest to the heat source), the bottom cut sides of the squash were still not getting as browned as we wanted them. The solution was fairly simple: Preheating the baking sheet before quickly arranging the squash on the hot sheet to roast, which helped greatly with browning. Once the squash hits the pan, it starts searing immediately.
Once your vegetables are roasted, all that’s left is to whisk together a punchy vinaigrette that’s enhanced with sweet orange juice, honey, and dates with a hint of heat from chile powder. Then this fall side is ready for its close-up.
Adjust oven racks to middle and lowest positions. Place a large rimmed baking sheet on the lowest oven rack. Preheat oven with baking sheet to 475°F (245℃). Line a second large rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Cut each onion half through the root end into 4 (about 1 1/2–inch-thick) wedges. Brush onion wedges all over with 1 tablespoon oil. Arrange wedges, cut side down and evenly spaced, along outer edges of prepared foil-lined baking sheet. Cover baking sheet tightly with aluminum foil. Roast on middle rack for 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile onions are roasting, cut each squash half crosswise into four 1 1/2– to 2-inch-thick half-moon wedges; transfer to a large plate. Using a pastry brush, brush squash wedges with 2 tablespoons oil, and sprinkle evenly with 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAfter onions have roasted for 10 minutes, carefully remove the empty preheated baking sheet from oven. Working quickly, arrange squash wedges on the preheated baking sheet, cut side down and evenly spaced, along outer edges of baking sheet (spoon the squash pieces into each other to maximize space). Roast on lowest oven rack. Let onions and squash roast until onions are softened and translucent, 10 minutes longer.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRemove onions from oven and carefully remove foil. Brush with 2 tablespoons oil and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the salt and remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Return to middle oven rack and continue to roast both onions and squash, uncovered and flipping squash once halfway through, until bottom sides of onion wedges are lightly browned and squash are browned, about 20 additional minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile vegetables roast, place dates, orange juice, vinegar, honey, pinch of chile powder, and remaining 3 tablespoons oil, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a small bowl. Stir and mash dates using the back of a spoon until mixture is thickened and creamy but still loose enough to drizzle.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer roasted squash and onion wedges to a large serving platter. Drizzle with date-orange dressing and garnish with pistachios. Serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentPastry brush, 2 rimmed baking sheets
NotesYou can use hot honey in place of the regular honey. If using hot honey, omit the pinch of chile powder.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe dressing can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature and whisk to recombine,thinning with a teaspoon of water if necessary.
Leftover roasted vegetables and be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days. Serve at room temperature or reheat in oven.
Serious Eats / Inma HortasMaybe you’re only interested in the NFL [Taylor’s Version], or maybe you’re frustrated by the dearth of mathematical expressions in Formula 1. Either way, your friends are over, your coasters are working overtime, and you…you have zero interest in camping out in front of the TV.
It’s OK. These deeply researched riffs on casual party fare will give you an excuse to slink off to the kitchen. These are the dishes to turn to when you long to be as engrossed in a kitchen project as your guests are engrossed in stoppage time.
You could try to learn the offsides rule again, or you could make everyone onion rings. The choice is clear.
Jalapeño PoppersSerious Eats / Qi AiThese poppers might look indistinguishable from the commercial versions you’d find in the freezer section, but the taste is anything but. The breading technique is foolproof. I can say this with confidence, as I have made these poppers, and I am a fool.
German PretzelsSerious Eats / Andrew JanjigianSure, this recipe will prepare you to lecture your guests on the full taxonomy of German pretzels. But if you want them to stay, you should probably let the pretzels’ tender innards and chewy, chestnut-brown crusts speak for themselves.
Cheesy Fried Potato SkinsVicky WasikI don’t care if the game is down to penalty kicks and the mascots are hitting each other with hammers. No one is going to be looking at the screen when you bring in these golden brown, extra-deep potato cups filled with raclette cheese and wee little slices of cornichon.
Homemade Bagel PizzasPhotograph and video: Vicky WasikWhen being the kind of person who makes their own bagels isn’t enough for you, try being the kind of person who makes their own bagel dollhouse miniatures.
Onion RingsJ. Kenji Lopez-AltThis heavily researched recipe adjusts the textural sliders to optimal levels for beer-battered onion rings that are crisp but not crumbly, with a coating that’s coherent but not too thick.
Homemade Potato ChipsSerious Eats / Vicky WasikYears ago, I mocked a restaurant for calling chips “acidulated crispy potatoes.” I am willing to revisit my stance on pretension, but only for these.
Real-Deal Pulled Pork SandwichesVicky WasikWhat do you get when you combine a dry brine and dry rub? One of the most moist sandwiches you’ve ever had. This pork shoulder can take up to 15 hours to smoke, making it an ideal pairing for the 1985 World Snooker Championship.
Lomo Al TropoJ. Kenji López-AltTired: Beef Wellington. Wired: “beef tenderloin in a towel.” Thrust yourself back into the center of attention by flambéing this at the table without warning (theatrics aside, the fuss-to-reward ratio is super high).
Philly CheesesteaksSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezBored with the game? Bring the brawl to your living room by asking hungry guests if you should use provolone or Whiz.
Funnel CakeSerious Eats / Morgan Glaze HuntAre your friends celebrating? Bring them a funnel cake. Are they staring morosely at the TV? Bring them a funnel cake. It’s impossible to eat one sadly.
Serious Eats / Inma HortasI’ve lived in Kansas City for a decade, which means I have spent the last few years becoming increasingly smug about the Chiefs. I know on an instinctive level that this is just setting me up for greater humiliation. But victory is fleeting: you’ve gotta celebrate when you can.
When your team’s on top, you want a game-day spread for high times and high rollers. You want a menu that says: You are invincible. You are Ozymandias, King of Kings, and you don’t know a thing about any lone and level sands. People say “Pride goeth before the fall,” but they’ve never seen you goeth.
These are the dishes to reach for when there’s zero chance you’ll be photographed morosely spooning caviar onto a paper plate while your “untouchable” quarterback is sacked for the fifth time this game. And worst case scenario, are you really going to regret eating the caviar?
Plump and Tender Shrimp CocktailSerious Eats / Debbie WeeIs there anything more luxurious, more louche, than a shrimp cocktail ring you didn’t pluck from a grocery-store freezer? These shrimp get a flavor boost from a white-wine-and-ginger poaching liquid and a cocktail sauce with a secret ingredient (the secret ingredient is coriander).
Hoisin-Glazed MeatballsSerious Eats / Mariel De La CruzSweet, tangy, and impossibly tender, these cocktail meatballs are the cosmopolitan answer to a crockpot of li’l smokies.
Oysters RockefellerVicky WasikNamed after John D. Rockefeller’s little-known heir, Oysters Rockefeller, this broiled appetizer is a swanky showpiece. The oysters here are lighter and brighter than some retro versions thanks to layered alliums and anise-y notes from absinthe and fennel.
Easy, Ultimate Clams CasinoVicky WasikFew flavor combinations feel more indulgent than clams, bacon, and butter. Still, this dish ups the ante by tossing coarse panko bread crumbs in bacon fat for the savory, crispy topping.
Blini and CaviarVicky WasikRussia’s traditional yeasted pancakes offer a feather-light base for a dollop of crème fraiche and a festive swoop of caviar. If you can’t milk your own sturgeon, store-bought is fine.
Bacon-Wrapped Figs With Blue Cheese and BourbonMorgan EisenbergWhen do “appetizers” earn the pomp of “hors d'oeuvres”? When they’re broiled figs stuffed with creamy blue cheese, swaddled in bacon, and crisped in a bourbon-caramel glaze.
The Best Carne AsadaJ. Kenji López-AltA celebratory spread doesn’t have to mean champagne and caviar. It can also mean tender marinated skirt steak blistered on the grill and dribbled with a bright ancho, guajillo, and chipotle salsa.
Whipped Feta DipWhen queso feels insufficiently festive, break out this silky whipped feta and Greek yogurt dip. It may not scratch the same itch, but it will taste great on a pita chip.
Baked Brie en Croute With Thyme and Fig JamPhotograph: Emily and Matt Clifton. Video: Serious Eats VideoYou don’t have to brag about your team being up. You’re plopping a baked brie en croute on the coffee table at halftime.You’ve said enough.
Pistachio BaklavaSerious Eats / Mai KakishThere are only two things sweeter than victory: pistachio-studded, syrup-soaked phyllo pastry and the relief of clicking this link and learning you don’t have to make your own phyllo pastry.
Serious Eats / Inma HortasFor high-strung cooks, tailgating can be as stressful as the game. When you’re transporting dishes and serving a crowd, you have to relinquish a certain amount of consistency and control.
The good news? You can play around with potluck classics and relax a little as a host. No one’s expecting you to construct elaborate tablescapes. At best, you’re selecting dishes to be doled out at room temperature from the wheel well of a Subaru Outback.
Lean into the casual vibes and let stadium food be your guide. Ask yourself: Could I eat this out of a tiny baseball helmet? And then: should I?
The recipes below fit the bill. They’re also portable, practical, and satisfying—no matter how many mysterious liquids you’ve consumed in the parking lot.
Fried Pickle DipSerious Eats / Robby LozanoThis dish has everything, and when I say “everything,” I mean “pickles.” It has pickle juice. It has pickle chips. It has pickle-flavored potato chips to dip in the dill pickle dip. It has the pleasing crunch of toasted breadcrumbs (these, too are pickled, somehow).
Deviled EggsErik DrobeyDeviled egg haters are untrustworthy. Weed them from your friend group with these intense, mustardy eggs seasoned with the brine from a jar of pickled cherry peppers.
Salsa VerdeSerious Eats / Two BitesThis charred tomatillo salsa uses both fresh and cooked cilantro, making it the perfect opportunity to ask your friends with the gene whether they taste raw or cooked soap.
Roasted Tomato SalsaSerious Eats / Fred HardyBroiling fresh tomatoes concentrates their flavors for a zippy salsa that will inspire Pace Picante lovers to dream different dreams.
Seven Layer Buffalo Chicken DipMorgan EisenbergWhat is a seven-layer dip but a savory trifle? Lob that conversation starter into the crowd to keep them occupied while you sneak a fifth helping. This dip is a fossil record of good ideas, from refried beans and bacon to Buffalo-saucy chicken with blue cheese and ranch.
Kettle CornSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeSure, you can make this kettle corn the night before the game—the corn will stay crunchy, airy, and subtly salty-sweet. But this one-pot, five-minute recipe is ideal for procrastinators.
Chaat-Spiced Chex MixVicky WasikFor marathon tailgates, a shelf-stable snack mix is key. Liven up the tri-Chex melange with chaat masala, a tangy spice blend heavily flavored by black mineral salt, green mango powder, and tamarind.
Apple Hand PiesSerious Eats / Debbie WeeThis is a truly portable dessert—the Go-Gurt of technique-forward homemade pastry—allowing you to wander around the parking lot in search of friends with snacks to trade.
Serious Eats / Inma HortasToss-ups are tough to prep for. Are your guests going to want to set off fireworks, or set the house on fire? When teams or athletes are evenly matched, one of the only things you can be sure of is high-pressure viewing—overtime, penalty kicks, Game Seven.
Fortunately, nailbiters are a fine time to try soothing yourself through repetitive actions—for example, bringing a gravy-drenched French fry to your mouth. Plus, you’ll need the fuel. You may not be on the field, but you’ll definitely be sweating.
When the odds are even, tame your guests’ game-day stress with filling, large-format dishes. This is a menu that's even more comforting than hiding inside your sweatshirt hood and pulling the strings.
Party-Size Chicken Parm SubSerious Eats / Kevin WhiteDon’t let the “party-size” instructions dissuade you. You can be a party of one.
Cuban for a CrowdMorgan EisenbergThanks to recent advancements in Sandwich Studies, you can scale up the traditionally labor-intensive Cuban for a crowd. The secret? Sheet-pan assembly using whole loaves of crusty bread. The recipe instructs you to slice into individual portions after baking, but we’re not the boss of you.
PoutineSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergThe only thing squeakier than these cheese curds will be you, asking “Did I mention I made my own cheese curds?” during each commercial break.
Gooey Cheeseburger DipUpgrade a retro potluck favorite with a silky homemade cheese sauce and the accents of a green chile cheeseburger.
Perfect SlidersSerious Eats / Two BitesSome food-science questions—say, “How many sliders are equivalent to a full-sized burger?”—are better left unanswered. Until the science is settled, eat as many crisp-edged patties and onion-scented steamed buns as you want.
Easy Pull-Apart Pepperoni Garlic KnotsSerious Eats / Greg DupreeIs there any phrase more tantalizing, more exhilarating than “the garlic knots are ready”? Yes: “The pepperoni garlic knots are ready.”
The Best Chili EverSerious Eats / Qi AiWhen you have a crowd to feed but can’t tear your eyes away from the screen, a giant pot of short-rib chili is the answer. Let your guests serve themselves and set out a buffet of garnishes that you prepped before the coin toss.
Oven Barbecue Pork RibsNo smoker? No problem. These oven-baked ribs are ready in under four hours with minimal prodding, leaving your hands free for nervous fidgeting.
Buckeye BrowniesSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeWhen the game gets to double overtime, you’re going to need to refuel. These rich, fudgy brownies are the flagging sports fan’s answer to running gels. The layers of salty peanut butter and silky ganache are cribbed from the buckeye candy, one of Ohio’s greatest culinary gifts (besides Serious Eats contributor Jed Portman).
Serious Eats / Inma HortasI have a love for lost causes, and I come by it honestly. I spent my formative years playing in the marching band for the worst football team in the country. I do not recall our precise record, but in my mind, we were 0 and 80. Still, I hooted. I hollered. I honked my little saxophone.
The best thing I can say about those games is that they were short, as the 35 point rule—the high school equivalent of bestowing mercy—meant that the clock was running almost continuously. The second best thing I can say about them is that I got to microwave buffalo chicken tenders when I got home.
Both my chosen sports teams and my defeat dinners have improved substantially since then. But the core principle remains the same: When you know you’re going to lose, you need unfussy, straightforward comfort food. Only the classics will do.
Consider these recipes a game-day Greatest Hits album, then—surefire crowd-appeasers that no scoreline can sully. These are dishes that can comfort you through the five stages of sports grief (Denial, Anger, Second Anger, Silence, Kicking). The only thing more satisfying is knowing no one can call you a bandwagon fan.
Buffalo WingsSerious Eats / Mariel De La CruzA few simple tricks make these oven-baked wings every bit as crisp and juicy as their fried counterparts. Invest the time to air-dry the wings overnight. It’s a form of self-care—a “deepest sympathies” care package from you to future you.
The Ultimate Fully Loaded NachosSerious Eats / Two BitesThese fully loaded nachos use a cheese sauce and shredded cheese to ensure each chip is maximally melty and saucy, with no disappointing bites. Great nachos won’t fix you, but they won’t make you any worse.
Classic Guacamole RecipeLiz ClaymanDo you like balsamic vinegar in your guacamole? Neither do I. This is a recipe for a simple, classic, precision-calibrated guac with plenty of texture and just a little heat.
Hot Spinach-Artichoke DipSerious Eats/Morgan Hunt GlazeHot, creamy dips have undeniable retro appeal, with the power to transport you through time and space. One swipe through this chunky-cheesy concoction and you’ll be whisked away to a ‘90s TGIFridays, when everything was beautiful and none of your players were hurt.
Easy Weeknight MeatballsSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezMore comforting than spaghetti and meatballs? Skipping right to the meatballs. This weeknight version comes together quickly so you can get right back to pacing in front of the TV.
Crispy Bar-Style PizzaSerious Eats / Julia EstradaFlavor, like dread, develops over time, and this pizza is best if you let the dough ferment in the fridge for a few days. Fortunately, that’s the fussiest part. The thin, crispy pie is adaptable and forgiving, easy for a total pizza novice to shape and bake.
3-Ingredient Mac and CheesePhotographs: Vicky Wasik. Video: J. Kenji López-AltEvaporated milk is the MVP of this gooey three-ingredient mac and cheese. There’s no faster, easier road to solace than a nostalgic stovetop mac.
Honey-Roasted PeanutsSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe best way to deal with stress is to eat 50 of something. The best thing to eat 50 of are these make-ahead peanuts, double-roasted and tossed in a compulsively snacky honey-butter glaze.
Rice Krispie TreatsSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezChildhood comfort gets an adult upgrade thanks to brown butter, toasted cereal, and a generous sprinkling of kosher salt.
Look, does it surprise you to learn that here at Serious Eats, we travel to eat? When we plan our dream itineraries, they usually include multiple days of second (and sometimes even third) dinners to fit it all in. Sure, we all have a lot of different hobbies—playing guitar, knitting, going to concerts, biking, watching sports, ultramarathoning, ultranapping, embroidery, boxing, pottery, horseback riding, swimming, hiking, capoeira, reading, taking in independent cinema, training cats (yes, really), bird watching, watercoloring, and more—but two loves we all share are food and travel. And when we can combine those two passions, that's our favorite scenario. That's why we're so excited to share this brand-new culinary travel series, Global Eats, with you.
In this collection of seven culinary travel guides, Serious Eats' food experts and recipe creators take you on highly personal tours of gastronomic destinations around the world. Whether it's Kevin Vaughn bringing us behind a butcher shop counter in Buenos Aires or Clarissa Wei guiding you to the best traditional gongfu-style tea houses in Taipei, our recipe developers are letting you in on the restaurants, markets, shops, and street food spots that inspire their own recipes and cooking. There are a lot of travel guides out there, but what sets ours apart is the deep knowledge our experts bring to the table (pun intended) about the food scenes in each city.
No immediate travel plans on the horizon or still unsure where your next adventure should be? This guide is still for you! You can cook your way through selected recipes from each of these experts to recreate the flavors and specialities of each city at home—it might just help you decide where to go next. Be sure to click through to each city guide to find all of our recommendations—we have more than 50 recipes and 50 dining destinations across the seven guides. Now, grab your passport (or your pots and pans, for armchair travelers) and let's go to Bangkok, Buenos Aires, Cairo, London, Mumbai, Taipei, and Paris!
Fragrant Curries, Refreshing Salads, and Plenty of Noodles: Where and What to Eat in Bangkok, According to Our Thai ExpertsThailand is known as the Land of Smiles for its noteworthy hospitality, but even without the warm welcome extended to visitors, the country's rich and varied cuisine would be reason enough for its long-held status as a top destination for food lovers. In this guide, we're exploring the food scene in the capital city of Bangkok, which is renowned for its noodles bathed in rich broths, complex curries, punchy salads, sizzling satays, fiery dips, bone-warming soups, and so much more—all typically available for just a few dollars.
Your guides to Bangkok are chef, cookbook author, YouTuber, and Serious Eats contributor Pailin Chongchitnant, a native of southern Thailand who lived in Bangkok from age 13 until adulthood, along with our contributor Derek Lucci, a Brooklyn-based chef and food writer who has dedicated himself to perfecting Thai cuisine and bringing lesser-known Thai dishes to the US through online classes, supper clubs, and his recipes for Serious Eats.
Tag along as Chongchitnant visits her favorite restaurant for her absolute must-try noodle soup: boat noodles. "If you have one soup in Thailand, you should have boat soup,” she says. But definitely leave room for more than one soup because Lucci's hot tip for a visit to Bangkok is to "try as many noodle shops as you can," and he's sharing his go-tos for the headiest broths and bounciest noodles. Inside this guide, you'll also find plenty of recipes for creating the best of Bangkok at home, including bright-green gaeng khiao waan gai (green chicken curry), punchy gai pad king (chicken and ginger stir-fry), moo palo (pork-belly stew with eggs), sour and spicy tom yam pla (fish soup), yam khai dao (fried egg salad), crabmeat fried rice, and (yes!) boat noodles—just to name a few dishes to whet your appetite.
Buenos Aires Is a Culinary Melting Pot. Here's Where to Eat—Including Fresh Empanadas and Perfect Pizza—According to a Resident ExpertWant to know where to find the very best costillas a la riojana (pork chops with fried eggs and vegetables), buttery, savory empanadas, or sweet alfajores in Buenos Aires—and how to make those dishes at home? Then you've come to the right place. Your guide to the capital of Argentina is longtime Serious Eats contributor Kevin Vaughn, a writer, cook, and tour operator who's been living in Buenos Aires for more than a decade.
Vaughn knows the food scene in Buenos Aires inside and out, from casual cafes and empanada spots to must-visit bakeries, butchers, and markets. The culinary tour he's taking you on delves much deeper than the common but vastly oversimplified narrative of Buenos Aires "as a city whose cultural identity is often whittled down to tales of Italian immigrants arriving to the New World and constructing a city in Paris’ likeness." Yes, the influence of Italian immigrants can be seen on the city's cuisine, but so too can that of immigrants from across Europe, the Levant, the Caucasus, East Asia, and Latin America, Vaughn explains. And it's not just historical influences at play—Buenos Aires is also a city with a cuisine that's very much alive, full of chefs and vendors who are constantly innovating, rather than a place that's "preserved in amber," as Vaughn puts it.
So put on your walking shoes and come along as Vaughn takes you on a tour of this stunning, simmering melting pot. And rest assured, if you're not quite ready to book tickets to Argentina today, this guide will help you bring Buenos Aires home with plenty of recipes that'll pique your curiosity until the day you're ready to visit in person.
Come For the Pyramids, Stay for the Food: A Local’s Guide to Eating in Cairo, a Culinary ParadiseWith its ancient monuments and millennia of history, Cairo would be a top travel destination even if its cuisine was mediocre. But luckily for culinary travelers, the food in Cairo is as stunning and compelling as the sights. This sprawling metropolis is chock-a-block with gems for food-loving visitors, including steaming food carts, bazaars, buzzing souks vending a rainbow of spices, and family-run regional restaurants with patio seating along the Nile. Your expert guide for our culinary tour of Egypt's bustling capital is Egyptian food writer and recipe developer Nermine Mansour, who was born and raised in and around Cairo, and is a frequent visitor to the city, although she now resides in the US.
Click through for Mansour's full insider's tour of her beloved city, which has gone through a metamorphosis since the Arab Spring 13 years ago. Mansour says that after the overthrow of strongman Hosni Mubarak, the Cairo food scene changed noticeably, first with a surge of street stall vendors in downtown Cairo selling classic Egyptian fare, followed by street carts run by new immigrants from around the Middle East—including those from Palestine, Lebanon, and Syria—as well as a blossoming of fine-dining restaurants.
"Egypt is a food paradise for Americans and Europeans,” says Mansour. “You can get the best food in the country for almost nothing, and Egypt can cater to any dietary restriction, including vegan, gluten free, meat, seafood, and even keto." This complexity is layered on top of a cuisine that already displays thousands of years of Mediterranean, North African, Ottoman, Indian, French, and other influences. Tag along with Mansour as she goes spice shopping and visits restaurants and food stalls for her favorite koshari (a fragrant dish of lentils, rice, and pasta), bissara (fava bean dip), fatta (slow-cooked beef in a garlic-vinegar sauce over toasted pita and toasted basmati rice), ful medames (stewed fava beans), and more—then learn to make these dishes at home with her very own recipes.
Full English Breakfasts, Meat Pies, and Puddings Galore: Where and What to Eat in London, According to Our Food WritersIf you have an interest in culinary travel—which we assume you do if you are reading this guide!—you no doubt know that that dusty old notion of London as a, well, dusty old dining destination is solidly a thing of the past. These days, you’ll find yourself with the challenge of narrowing down your list of places to visit in a single trip. And we have just the duo to guide you on your grand tour of this world capital's food scene: British pastry chef, recipe developer, and cookbook author Nicola Lamb and recipe developer Rebecca Frey, an American who was so mesmerized with London’s culture, entertainment, and food that she now lives there.
Whether you are hanking for classic pub fare, dim sum, Turkish skewered meats grilled over live coals, high tea, or the intriguingly named knickerbocker glory ice cream sundae—or all of the above—Lamb and Frey have the inside scoop on where to get them in London, and they're sharing it all here. “It’s a place where you have this free movement between these amazing food cultures that come to London. You can go for a classic British food experience like cream tea or Sunday roast, but…you also have excellent places that have fried chicken bao and things designed for a Londoner’s palate, and at the same time, these crowd-pleasing dishes live on the menu alongside delicious pork bone noodles—you can get soup dumplings and a Sichuan tripe dish on the same menu, and it makes perfect sense because it’s London,” says Lamb. Inside this guide, you'll also find recipes for recreating some classic London fare at home, including a Bake Off–worthy genoise sponge and that aforementioned knickerbocker glory, a tower of ice cream, syrup, fresh fruit, whipped cream, and a fan wafer. London calling, indeed.
Railway Pakoras, Modern Cocktails, and More: Where and What to Eat in Mumbai, According to a Longtime Resident and ExpertWant to tour Mumbai with somebody who's equally adept at pointing out which street stalls to go to and which to avoid for the best bread pakora as she is at recommending which of the city’s poshest and trendiest eateries are worth a visit to sample cocktails, chaat, and a thali boasting a dozen dishes on one tray? Meet your guide to this installment of our culinary travel series: cookbook author and recipe developerChetna Makan, who was born and raised in the city of Jabalpur in Madhya Pradesh before moving to Mumbai to study fashion. Makan now lives in England, but she returns to Mumbai every year to see family and friends and to make sure she’s up to date on the latest in Mumbai food culture—and now she's sharing those insights with you.
In addition to revealing her favorite places to eat and shop in Mumbai, Makan is sharing her tips for navigating the city's twisty and bustling streets, as well as how to eat incredibly well without risking food poisoning—which unfortunately is a valid concern in the city. But with Makan at your (virtual) side, you'll dine on "carb on carb" delights at the food stalls crowded into the alleys off of Mumbai’s grand Victorian Gothic rail station, Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, without concern. If you're not quite ready to hop on a flight to Mumbai, this guide is still for you—it's full of Makan's recipes for some of the many delights that await when you do plan that trip to India's most influential food city, and arguably one of the most influential food cities in the world.
Bistros, Brasseries, and Patisseries: Our Staff’s Guide to Dining Like a Parisian in the City of LightParis sits at the tippity top of many food lovers' culinary travel wish lists for good reasons—the unparalleled cheese, bread, pastries, charcuterie, and wines, just to name a handful. But that very abundance of great food can make a trip to Paris—whether it's your first or 50th—overwhelming. Where to start? Well, we suggest starting here, with our guide to the City of Light that includes recommendations from two certified food nerds on the Serious Eats staff, Editorial Director Daniel Gritzer and Culinary Editor Genevieve Yam. Daniel worked for years at New York City’s famed Chanterelle, studied charcuterie in the South of France, and was mentored in modern French cooking fundamentals under Didier Virot, a Michel Bras–trained chef. Genevieve is a veteran of Per Se and Blue Hill at Stone Barns, as well as an accomplished baker and pastry chef—when she’s whipping up pastry in our test kitchen, you're sure to find the rest of our staff sniffing around for a taste. Both have come off their most recent trips to Paris with a host of dining recommendations they're sharing here, including their favorite brasseries, boulangeries, patisseries, and bistros.
Dig into buckwheat crêpes with ham, egg, and cheese; pan-roasted game partridges; beef confit; grilled scallops; steak au poivre or steak frites; asparagus or poached chicken with sauce gribiche; silky chocolate mousse; and pastries galore. And if you can't get to Paris as quickly as you'd like, we have your back with plenty of recipes to make in the meantime, including Daniel's coquilles Saint-Jacques (luscious scallops sauced in veloute and topped with browned breadcrumbs) and Genevieve's île flottante (baked meringue suspended in a pool of crème anglaise), just to name two highlights. Click through for our full guide—we promise, it's magnifique!
Where and What to Eat in Taipei—Including the Best Night Markets—According to an Award-Winning Food Writer Based in Taiwan's CapitalThere are many travel guides to Taipei, but we only know of one written by an award-winning cookbook author who lives in the city—and that's the guide we're sharing right here. For this culinary tour of the capital of Taiwan, we tapped Serious Eats contributor Clarissa Wei, a food writer and recipe developer who recently won the International Association of Culinary Professionals' Julia Child First Book Award for her cookbook, Made in Taiwan: Recipes and Stories from the Island Nation. And now Wei is sharing a handful of her favorite markets, restaurants, and tea houses—some of the very places that inspired the recipes in her cookbook and right here on Serious Eats.
"In Taipei, food isn’t confined to brick-and-mortars; insead, it spills out into the streets," Wei says. "Night markets take up entire neighborhoods, where pedestrians graze from stall to stall holding fistfuls of skewers. There are breakfast shops open 24/7, where the smell of freshly brewed hot soymilk and deep-fried dough wafts onto busy streets. And lots of restaurants have outdoor seating, with tables sprawled out on the sidewalks on a busy Friday night." Join Wei as she visits Ningxia market to dig into deep-fried chewy squid balls and five-spice scented popcorn chicken, then head off with her to gaze at the tidy pyramids of fruit and vegetables at Shi-Dong market. After you've strolled around enough to build your appetite back up, head with her to Baxian, "a perfect spot for visitors to dive into Taiwan’s late-night dining scene" with Taiwanese classics like fried rice, spicy braised stinky tofu, and stir-fried clams with garlic and fresh basil. With Wei’s recipes included in this culinary travel guide extraordinaire, you can also get excited for your trip or relive memories of your visit to Taipei by cooking up some of those Taiwanese classics at home.
Callum Heinrich for Serious EatsLondon is a city that straddles both cutting-edge modernity and an ancient, imperial past—where Westminster Palace and the Eye can sit on opposite banks of the Thames and still somehow make sense; where posh Received Pronunciation BBC accents jostle with indecipherable-to-many Cockney slang just as formal tea houses rub up against endless kebab shops. You soak in the serenity of a walk through a primly manicured London park knowing that as soon as you leave you’ll be thrust into the hurried chaos, trying not to get wedged into the clockwork frenzy of people who stride forward like they’re the ones making the Earth turn.
Callum Heinrich for Serious EatsYou could have turned to any old guide to London, but you came to Serious Eats because you take your eats, well, seriously. And to ensure our travel guide to the city—part of Global Eats, our culinary travel series—is first and foremost a guide for and by food lovers, we didn’t hesitate to use our not-so-secret weapons: our team of writers, editors, recipe developers, and contributors, who make up some of the best minds and palates in the food business. For London, we turned to two people who know the city’s food scene like the backs of their hands because they live, breathe, and eat it every day.
Pastry chef, recipe developer and cookbook author Nicola Lamb lives in London and has one hell of a track record: She trained in New York City’s Dominique Ansel and London’s Ottolenghi, Little Bread Pedlar, and Happy Endings; started a pop-up bakery and online pastry school; and shares her wisdom and recipes in writing, including in her own newsletter, Kitchen Projects. There’s no greater source of excitement for her than discovering a great new place to get a trifle or an oven-hot brioche, no matter how pedestrian or posh the establishment.
Meanwhile, Serious Eats recipe developer Rebecca Frey is an American who was so mesmerized with London’s culture, entertainment, and food that she now lives there.
“There’s always something happening, always something to see, always something to do,” she says. “In a city with a massive immigrant population, you’ve got great restaurants from all different countries and cultures. You can get anything you want, foodwise.”
And she should know: Frey’s got a Diplôme de Pâtisserie from Le Cordon Bleu London and an MSc in Culinary Innovation from Birkbeck, University of London. She’s also a veteran food stylist and food photographer.
We’ve asked Lamb and Frey to share their favorite food haunts in the city, from markets where they buy their ingredients to the places they eat when they’re taking a break from cooking and baking themselves.
London CallingLondon, once the seat of history's most far-flung empire and arguably the center of the world, is now a melting pot of cultural influences with a global dining scene to match. Today, from its serpentine, cobblestone alleys to its soaring, glass-ceilinged modern food halls, London is home to everything from greasy but beloved chippies to curry joints serving food that ranges from almost fully Anglicized to ultra spicy dishes that could’ve come straight out of Tamil Nadu.
Callum Heinrich“One of the most interesting things I’ve heard about London and London’s cuisine is that London’s lack of food culture is actually one of its greatest strengths,” says Lamb. “It’s a place where you have this free movement between these amazing food cultures that come to London. You can go for a classic British food experience like cream tea or Sunday roast, but…you also have excellent places that have fried chicken bao and things designed for a Londoner’s palate, and at the same time, these crowd-pleasing dishes live on the menu alongside delicious pork bone noodles—you can get soup dumplings and a Sichuan tripe dish on the same menu, and it makes perfect sense because it’s London.”
RestaurantsM. Manze87 Tower Bridge Road SE1 4TW
For traditional British fare like pie and mash, Lamb recommends M.Manze on Tower Bridge Road for a classic pie and green parsley liquor (never call it “gravy”). Since 1901, it has sat on an unassuming block on Tower Bridge Road, serving up savory minced-beef pies swimming in the thin, bright green liquid (once, but no longer, made from stewed eels). Lamb calls Manze a classic for a reason—as you’ll see once you walk into its white-and-green-tiled dining room, step up to the white-marble counter, and watch as one of the green-uniformed women plops down a heap of mash and ladles a viridian ocean of liquor over your flaky, meaty pie. Even herbivores can enjoy themselves here by ordering a vegan pie made with soy mince. It’s pretty much the closest experience you’ll get to entering a time machine and having a working class meal in 1950s postwar London.
Callum Heinrich for Serious EatsPie Room at Holborn Dining Room252 High Holborn WC1V 7EN
For a more elevated and historical take on the working-class favorite, try the Pie Room at Holborn Dining Room. It’s a far cry from the cafeteria-like atmosphere of M.Manze, as the Pie Room sits inside the Rosewood, a posh modern hotel not far from Covent Garden. It takes the working-class staple and puts a simultaneously historical and contemporary take on it—expect “super intricate pâté en croute stuff that looks back at the history of Victorian pie molds,” Lamb says.
The artful and precise dough designs adorning those pies are so visually appealing that they've become huge hits on Instagram, tailor-made with Saville Row–level skill for social media's visual food consumption.
You could, for example, have a pie of chicken, chestnut mushrooms, leek fondue, and tarragon in a gloriously lacquered crust that looks more like the Gherkin skyscraper in London than anything that a Cornish working man might’ve taken down into the copper mines. And you’d get to do it on a fine marble table, red leather chairs, and paired with a £255 Meursault.
E. Pellicci332 Bethnal Green Road, E2 0AG
You can order a hearty weekend English breakfast at most hotels, but for an immersive experience, get your fry-up—with everything cooked on the same griddle in a proper “caff” (never “cafe”!)—at E. Pellicci, a bustling, postage stamp-sized diner and East London institution that’s been run for generations by the same family, Lamb says.
Courtesy of E. PellicciBe prepared to literally bump elbows with locals and trade quips with the owners as you scarf down eggs, beans, lightly charred fried tomatoes, and black pudding on a Formica table under art deco wooden wall panels and the watchful gaze of a verbose Pellicci sibling. Don’t even bother trying to get a table on weekends—weekend fry-ups at E. Pellicci are a religion for many East Enders. Lamb says it's better to go during the week, when you’re far more likely to find a spot.
“The service can be rude, but E. Pellicci’s so famous and fun because it’s a proper Cockney Italian family, and they argue with each other and shout Cockney slang that suddenly turns into very impassioned Italian,” Lamb says. “And I can get my fry-up with a slab of lasagne.”
Courtesy of E. PellicciDim Sum Duck124 King's Cross Road, King’s Cross St Pancras WC1X 9DS
No Website
To appreciate a small sampling of the cultural potpourri that is London, try Dim Sum Duck, which Lamb goes to when she wants to be reminded of the Brighton dim sum place she used to visit with her Hong Kongese father.
“My heart is in that dim sum place in Brighton that we went to, but the food at Dim Sum Duck is amazing, and they do amazing soup dumplings,” she says.
Operating out of an unassuming storefront on King’s Cross Road, this Michelin-recommended Cantonese restaurant often spills out onto sidewalk tables and has long lines on weekends. Inside, it’s elbow-to-elbow, brightly lit dining under a wall plastered with a black-and-white photo of a roast duck stall in a Chinese market. It may not be the most romantic meal, but your appetite will become ravenous by the plumes of steam of handmade buns billowing out of bamboo baskets and the fragrance of the excellent roast duck hanging nearby.
Yeni Umut6 Crossway N16 8HX
No Website
Sometimes the mere mention of a favorite restaurant is enough to get your tummy grumbling. For Lamb, that place is Umut 2000, her local Turkish ocakbaşi, or open-fire grill restaurant. In fact, just talking about the restaurant for this article was enough for her to dash off there for dinner right after our conversation!
It’s not a fancy place—"no frills" would be generous, with its simple, small blond-wood tables, which are dwarfed by the massive chrome venting system hanging over seemingly half the restaurant. But the real centerpiece is the long, rectangular grill, filled with glowing coals. Here, the grillmasters keep a fleet of skewered meats on the constant sizzle, flipping them just enough to develop that perfect not-quite-charred crust while ensuring a juicy, fatty bite inside.
Among Lamb’s favorites are the lamb ribs, dusted with spices like paprika and cumin and featuring that toothsome crust yielding to a juicy, meaty interior. She likes to offset that fire with the cool unctuousness of the “so smooth” taramasalata—creamy and complex but not too fishy.
Afternoon TeaClaridge'sBrook Street W1K 4HR
The Ritz150 Piccadilly W1J 9BR
For a genteel, archetypally English meal, there’s afternoon tea, though you should keep in mind that it’s less about the food than the ceremony.
“Afternoon tea is a show,” Lamb says. “You have to put your taste expectations aside. It’s about the scones with cream and jam and the pomp. Put on your fancy outfit and go somewhere where someone wearing white gloves will pour your tea, like Claridge’s or the Ritz.”
Courtesy of Claridge'sClaridge’s is an art deco masterpiece that’s played the role of home away from home for high-profile guests from Audrey Hepburn and Cary Grant to Winston Churchill and the king of Yugoslavia. It’s a five-star affair with afternoon tea in the foyer and reading room, a grand, mirrored and cream-colored room with a flower-crowned chandelier and elegant tables that seem to dance around the room as if they’re performing a waltz. It’s the ultimate destination for future princesses to go pinkies up as they pour their Earl Grey into their warmed milk and pick out a perfectly rectangular cucumber sandwich or currant-dotted scone to have with clotted cream.
Courtesy of Claridge'sOf course, if you’re intent on “putting on the Ritz,” you need to go to the actual Ritz London, the Mayfair institution that defined luxury for generations and gave us the word “ritzy.” A huge neoclassical building intentionally designed to evoke Paris’ Belle Epoque, it has welcomed royalty and some of the richest people in the world. Its famed Palm Court, a Louis XVI gilded room under a celebrated glass roof, is where the royal family used to take tea, as did Churchill, writer Evelyn Waugh, and actress Judy Garland. Afternoon tea is still served in the Palm Court under its elaborate golden statues and with elegant sterling silver teapots and tea towers. Tea at the Ritz is a once-in-a-lifetime occasion with loose-leaf tea, bite-size pastries, and, if it’s that kind of day, flutes of Champagne.
Among the finest hotels in the city, both these luxurious institutions come with equally high-end prices, and the afternoon teas are perpetually in high demand—you’ll need to book a table weeks in advance if you plan on this being a highlight of your trip. Both also have strict dress codes, so read up on the requirements before you go so you’re not turned away at the door.
DessertsQuo Vadis26-29 Dean Street, Soho W1D 3LL
Londoners have fallen back in love with a good pudding. For example, the trifle, a British dessert at its most whimsical that Lamb describes as an “unapologetically decadent combination of wobbly fruit jelly, genoise sponge cake, crème légère, and whipped cream” in vibrant layers, had delighted English taste buds since the 16th century before falling out of favor. But now it’s enjoying a deserved resurgence.
Around London, Lamb finds fine examples of classic British puddings, taking inspiration from places like Quo Vadis, a cozy but chic Soho club and restaurant that’s been a London favorite since the 1920s. It’s got a traditionally high-class look with lots of natural light and partially stained-glass windows that even the coolest London hipster and her picky, snooty mother could agree to have a civil meal under, all cared for by its energetic, charming, and seemingly ever-present owner, Chef Jeremy Lee.
“Quo Vadis is a gorgeous restaurant, one of those rare places where the proprietor is the real heart of the place and is there every day in the kitchen and in the dining room—everything he does is from the heart,” Lamb says. “It’s a romantic, chic, white-tablecloth place that definitely feels like a cozy kitchen restaurant, with a nice bar upstairs. It's a good place to experience that traditional, very British dessert.”
SpringSomerset House, New Wing, Lancaster Place WC2R 1LA
For something more cakey, like her own genoise sponge, Lamb credits the restaurant Spring, in Somerset House, as having “the best pastry kitchen in London.” It has a rotating, seasonal menu that takes painstaking care in selecting only the best ingredients for each dish. Think springtime figs from a local farm that sells exclusively to Spring, or grilled sprout tops with quince, brown butter, and goat curd.
It also happens to operate in “one of the most beautiful dining rooms in London,” in Lamb’s opinion. She describes a bright, columned space whose white-on-white palette is broken up only by butterscotch-colored leather chairs.
“In the summertime, you get the most perfect strawberry cake or tart, and they’re going to marry the ingredients together perfectly,” Lamb says.
Spring’s also known for its less expensive “scratch” menu, consisting of a meal made with the produce that would’ve otherwise been thrown out at the end of the day, combined in creative and delicious ways, like walnut-and-citrus panna cotta with a remilled biscuit.
Fortnum & Mason181 Piccadilly W1A 1ER
Calling Fortnum & Mason a department store is like calling King Charles III a former boarding-school student—this massive merchant has been supplying Londoners from its perch on Piccadilly since the 1700s and is an institution almost as hallowed as the royal family itself.
Callum Heinrich for Serious EatsYear-round, but especially at Christmas, it’s a bustling maze of goods branching out from a grand spiral staircase, including in-store restaurants. The Parlour, a pastel, whimsically decorated ice cream shop, is where Frey found the perfect model for her recipe for “the essential British sundae,” the knickerbocker glory, a tower of “vanilla ice cream; a fruit purée, syrup, or coulis; fresh fruit; swirls of whipped cream; and a fan wafer, all served in a tall glass with a long metal spoon,” according to her recipe.
Fortnum & Mason lays claim to the dessert’s invention, possibly named after the synonymous hotel in New York City. The iconic dessert is even a feature of some of the many, many nonfood wares the establishment sells. Frey recommends grabbing something for souvenir-hungry visitors from abroad.
Callu Heinrich for Serious Eats“If somebody’s coming here as a tourist, they have great gift items—you can even get a Christmas ornament of the knickerbocker glory,” she says. “It’s a good place to get unique things to bring back to friends that aren’t cheesy tourist items.”
Markets and ShopsBread AheadBorough Market, Cathedral Street SE1 9DE
Frey often shops for her recipes at the sprawling, open-air Borough Market in Southwark, which has been around in one form or another since the 1000s, when it started off as a ramshackle rabble of merchants hawking wares and produce near the south entrance of London’s Tower Bridge. It’s now under a grand, vaulted glass ceiling but is still filled with stalls and vendors offering everything from freshly butchered meats and produce to juices and coffees. Frey likes to wander the stalls to see what’s in season while sipping on a fresh-pressed orange juice or nibbling on something from Bread Ahead.
“[The market] really [has] everything,” she says. “You can spend a couple hours just browsing. If someone is coming to London and is into food, it’s a don’t-miss.”
Frey suggests both amateur and professional bakers buy a loaf or stay for a class, like she has, at Bread Ahead.
“They do amazing doughnuts, they do bread, and they do really interesting classes, like Ukrainian baking or just British baking or sourdoughs,” she says. “It’s a really positive environment, and the classes are short, like a half day or a day, so it’s something you can come and do on a trip.”
Kossoffs259 Kentish Town Road NW5 2JT
Courtesy of Kossoff'sLamb’s brioche recipe was informed by her experiences at many London bakeries, among them the Kentish Town’s Kossoffs, which began baking Londoners’ daily bread over a century ago until the 1980s before being resurrected in 2021 to much acclaim by the founder’s great-grandson. The trays behind the glass partition inside this Ukrainian Jewish bakery on the neighborhood’s busy high street are laden with delectable baked goods—from croissants to hearty sandwiches on artisanal, heritage-grain breads—but Lamb is a fan of the miniature brioches, which change ingredients with the seasons, like a recent early-autumn one topped with vanilla crème, fresh summer apricots, and demerara sugar. She notes the brioches are normally cracklingly crispy on the outside and meltingly soft on the inside when they’re fresh out of the oven.
“Go at 8:30 or 9 a.m. and eat it hot!” Lamb says.
Partridges2-5, Duke of York Square, 5 King’s Road SW3 4LY
Frey’s first stop when she’s looking for harder-to-find or quality ingredients—like the molasses for her shoofly pie—is Partridges, specifically the larger store on Duke of York Square in Chelsea. This family-run mecca of specialty foods includes long refrigerated counters for salads and prepared items, aisles of regional cuisines, and islands of seasonal treats. It’s a haven for chefs, regular Brits wanting to try something new, and immigrants in search of that one spice they need for a dish that reminds them of home. Looking for a new holiday chutney? How about an apple-ginger-sultana Boxing Day spin or apricot-onion-orange-cranberry Christmas version? Why not go all out with a cheese hamper stuffed with Stilton, Camembert, and a creamy Vacherin Mont D'Or? Other standout hard-to-find offerings includeterrine of bison pâté and a lightly smoky Scottish heather honey. Frey comes here when she’s homesick for American comfort foods like Kraft macaroni and cheese or ranch dressing, but it’s a special destination around the winter holidays, when it’s a good excuse to stroll around and soak in arguably the most magical time of year in London.
“It’s in South West London and close to the Thames, so it’s not too far for going for a walk along the river, and the square has an outdoor food market on weekends and Christmas events around Christmas,” she says.
Leila's Shop15-17 Calvert Ave, Bethnal Green, London E2 7JP
Lamb says to look out for the deliciously unique small-batch La Grotta Ices (think cucumber-sour cream or strawberry-melon) at Leila’s Shop in Shoreditch, which also has hard-to-find, high quality ingredients that depend on the tastes and whims of its owner, Leila McAlister. This tiny, community-focused store-deli-cafe is always crowded with produce and other ingredients that seemingly only McAlister can source, thanks to her “extraordinarily good” taste, personal connections, and uncanny knack for finding great sources around the globe.
“Leila’s one of those characters of London who has been doing it right for many years and has a very high standard,” Lamb says. “She’ll have figs in from Cyprus you don’t get anywhere else, or hop-infused panna cotta, and Leila’s is good for using very British heritage grains, which are more flavorful.”
Cool, Britannica!It would take an encyclopedia-sized guide to get through all the wonderful foods London has to offer, but you’ll get a taste of the best of the best, by Londoners and for Londoners, following the advice of our local experts Lamb and Frey. Just remember to leave room for afters!
Adriana Parrilla for Serious EatsParis is on everyone’s travel bucket list for good reason. Whether you’re marching along with the crowds down the grand boulevards and flagship stores of the Eighth Arrondissement or wandering slowly from gallery to gallery along the cozy, tree-shaded streets of Le Marais, you always seem to be caught in a quintessentially Parisian experience.
Sipping a bitter-smelling morning espresso and nibbling on a flaky pain au chocolat in a cafe next to a murderously stylish octogenarian in head-to-toe Hermès as Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin coo at you over the radio…
Adriana Parrilla for Serious EatsTaking a break from the satisfying crunch of chalky gravel underfoot by people-watching from a bench under a perfectly geometrically manicured trees—only to hear your stomach whine hungrily at the sight of the couple digging into steaming hot crepes Suzette at the nearby creperie’s sidewalk table…
Spending the evening squeezed between two big bistro tables crowded with local families tucking into plates of steak frites, then breathing in the rich, briny aroma as the waiters usher in a giant, enamel crock of steamed mussels and a giant paper cone of hot, salty fries…
Courtesy of Les ParigotsYep, you could only be in Paris.
There have been more guides written about Paris than there are stops on the Metro, but this is a must-read because it’s the only one that’s fueled by Serious Eats’ most precious resource: the perfectly honed palates and combined decades of collective experience of our staff and recipe developers. It's one of several stops on our tour of the best food cities around the world.
For the City of Light, we talked to Serious Eats Editorial Director Daniel Gritzer, who worked for years in the kitchen at New York City’s famed Chanterelle, studied charcuterie in the South of France, and was mentored in modern French cooking fundamentals under Didier Virot, a Michel Bras–trained chef. We also spoke with Culinary Editor Genevieve Yam, a veteran of Per Se and Blue Hill at Stone Barns and an accomplished baker and pastry chef. Both have come off their most recent trips to Paris ready and more than willing to pass along their food finds, sharing how to eat where they ate—or how you could recreate their favorite dishes in your own home.
Hungrily In ParisParis is not new to Daniel or Genevieve—they've both made multiple trips there over the years. Daniel's most recent trip was earlier this year with his family to visit friends, walk the city, and keep abreast of Parisian food—in particular with an eye to classic bistro recipes he was working on for Serious Eats.
“This is one of the gastronomic capitals of the world, and so any summation of Parisian food feels like it’s just automatically going to be insufficient,” he says. “I went there this time specifically with French bistro recipes on the brain, but Paris as a food city goes well beyond that. I mean, you could spend a couple of weeks just visiting the boulangeries!”
Adriana Parrilla for Serious EatsIn other words, the most useful thing to bring to Paris? A good pair of broken-in walking shoes.
“Have a good time and if you walk around, you’ll find yourself in a pleasantly surprising restaurant, cheese shop, or market,” says Genevieve.
Similarly, Daniel advises you not to get trapped by this or any list of places to eat. One of the pure joys of a trip to Paris is exploring and creating memories by making your own culinary discoveries.
“The best thing about Paris is, sure, you make your list of restaurants to go to, but then you set off and walk and get on the Metro—just throw a stone and you’ll find good food no matter where you are,” he says.
Where to Eat in ParisBreizh Cafe109 Rue Vieille du Temple
Though Lyons is universally regarded as the culinary capital of France, Paris’ strength as, y’know, the capital in every other way, lies in the breadth of its regional representation of French foods. So when Daniel heard about Breizh Cafe in artsy Le Marais, he wanted to see how they stacked up against his own recipe for galettes Bretonnes, the buckwheat crepes you find in Brittany. It’s a casual, rustic place with hefty wood tables and wood paneled walls that’s welcoming to everyone from singletons to couples and families, though it can get crowded.
“These are the true, true buckwheat crepes, and I know from working on my recipe that they’re really tricky to make,” he says. “The batter is 100% buckwheat flour, so it’s kind of nutty and earthy and has this wonderful crispiness with a lacy bubble structure. And then you have the ham, an alpine cheese, and the sunny side-up egg kind of baked into it—just delicious, that juxtaposition of the crispy, lacy crepe and gooey, melty interior. Short of being in Brittany, it’s the real deal.”
Adriana Parrilla for Serious EatsA springtime offering added poached white asparagus to the classic ham, cheese, and egg filling. “You had this runny yolk flooding down into the expanse of melted cheese and white asparagus, with the melted cheese breaking into a kind of sauce that was almost like butter in spots,” he says.
The cafe offers far more than just the ham and cheese filling, including one wintery option that folded the crepe around tender potatoes, smoked fish, and fish roe, all bathed in a creamy sauce.
When working on his own recipe for home cooks, Daniel found that using only buckwheat flour for the crepes is a tricky proposition, particularly in a residential kitchen without its own billig (the large, flat iron cooking surface for crepes)—the pure buckwheat crepe has no gluten, causing it to break too easily. His Serious Eats galettes breton recipe uses a buckwheat–wheat flour mixture for a more forgiving batter. It's a reliable substitute that’s a reasonable home version of his meal at Breizh Cafe.
“I was able to get a really potent buckwheat flavor in a batter that was still user-friendly for the home cook, so I stand by it,” Daniel says.
L'Ami Jean27 Rue Malar
Want to eat contemporary French food alongside in-the-know locals? Pop into L’Ami Jean in the Seventh Arrondissement, with a wood-heavy storefront that almost looks like an old pub or the set from a Western movie but leads into a sleek, contemporary restaurant with lots of blond wood, a long, communal table on one side, and a perfect line of two-tops against a red leather banquette on the other. It’s often occupied by loyal local fans of the place.
“You wouldn’t know it was a good restaurant and you’d just walk by, but these are definitely regulars who go there, people who know this is where you go for great food in Paris,” Genevieve says. “You’re placed very close together, which is fun because you can overhear everyone’s conversations and eye what everyone else is eating. You can tell the people here genuinely like to eat here—they’re not influencers, just people who want a real good meal. No ring lights!”
Some of those neighbors’ dishes you could find yourself slavering over might include crispy-skinned, pan-roasted game partridges; grilled and smoked oregano beef confit; or briny-but-creamy grilled scallops fresh from the morning’s catch.
As soon as you enter L’Ami Jean, the staff greet you, whisk you to a table, set down good, crusty bread with olive oil and a little dish with olives, and then introduce you to amazing reinventions of traditional French cuisine, like an incredible pommes Anna that Genevieve describes as “crispy and tender and shingled together with a sear on the outside and creamy on the inside, dark but not burned and all very dramatic—a fancy-feeling potato dish that’s really just potatoes and butter but can be difficult to execute well.”
Clamato80 Rue d3 Charonne
The unassuming green storefront of Clamato looks like it could belong to any old Parisian merchant, but it belies the culinary laboratory inside doing creative work with French seafood. Sandwiched between a rough wooden ceiling and worn tile floor, you take a seat at a simple wood- slate bench and seafoam-colored tables that evoke a coastal retreat, all bathed in a soft white light from the big, central window that looks onto a tree-filled courtyard.
Daniel ordered clams served in a rich broth and brought out in a small cast-iron pot. “It was this incredibly reduced sauce that had the clam juices emulsified into a backbone of meat broth. It was phenomenal—my kids just wanted to drink that sauce.”
That sauce brought to mind Daniel’s own work on his lobster bisque recipe, which he built around “a French vision of bisque,” using a meat broth for the base instead of the seafood-only, flour-thickened version more common in the States. “I got a fair amount of pushback for that—why would you put chicken stock in a bisque?!—even though it's a powerful combination, and traditional. It was validating to go to a place like Clamato, a restaurant celebrated in Paris today, to see that meat broth-seafood-shellfish combination being 100% a good idea.”
Grand Brasserie6 Rue do la Bastille
A brasserie is a quintessentially Parisian dining experience both theatrical and homey, large and loud yet intimate. Grande Brasserie, across the street from Place de la Bastille, is a boisterous place with mirrors that stretch to the ceiling, intricately tiled floors, and whimsical yesteryear illustrations of French families celebrating life in both the fields and in the city.
Daniel, who had ended up there by chance while walking with his family and friends, was directly inspired by the tête de veau (calf’s head) he had to create his own recipe for crispy pork belly with sauce gribiche.
“Instead of the rustic dish with boiled veal’s head and sauce gribiche, the Grande Brasserie veal head meat was cooked and shredded, formed into a cylinder and cut into a puck, breaded and fried,” he says. “When I was working on my constellation of bistro recipes, I quickly realized that the traditional version wasn’t going to work because where can you get veal head here in the US? It turns out the visit to this brasserie was when the lightbulb went off for me. I said, let’s do a fried torpedo of crispy, fried pork using a boneless pork belly, which allowed for accessibility and affordability and results in a dish that you might make to really impress your guests but isn’t actually difficult on a technical level. I really owe it to that restaurant to open my mind to the possibilities of this preparation.”
He also happened to be working on a steak tartare recipe at the time, so he ordered it at the brasserie, finding their version delectable—and invaluable in the development of his own recipe.
“It had this creaminess that carried through, not thick and gloppy but a light sheen—something more than just a slick of oil,” Daniel says. “And personally, I think that’s better. This was what I went for with my own steak tartare recipe, using mayonnaise instead of just oil to dress the beef—it's delicious, perfectly made, and with a kind of silkiness to the dressing.”
Au Pied de Cochon6 Rue Coquillière
This charming, multi-floor brasserie, which Genevieve describes as “an old-school Parisian restaurant,” is filled with art hanging on its cream and dark red walls, red curtains on windows overlooking the streets, massive floral chandeliers, and red velvet banquettes. It’s packed with both locals and tourists.
Despite a small slide in quality as the restaurant has become more and more of a tourist destination, the desserts here are still top-notch and worth a visit. One of the highlights of Genevieve’s most recent trip to Paris was her meal at Au Pied de Cochon because of how the friendly, chatty, bowtied waiters put on a veritable pyrotechnics show when serving her order of crepes Suzette.
Getty Images / Edward Berthelot / Contributor“They roll up to your table with this little cart with a butane burner and flambé the sauce in front of you,” she says. “It’s very simply prepared in a very buttery sauce, and theirs was a little more bittersweet than mine, but I heavily recommend the crepes Suzette flambé because it’s part of the fun.”
She also enjoyed the Île flottante, which she says excels with fresh summer or poached winter fruits, “light and fluffy” meringue, and a sauce with “real vanilla beans and seasoned so it’s a little salty-sweet.”
Les Parigots République5 Rue de Chateau d'Eau
Compared to brasseries, bistros are cozier neighborhood places that Parisian families are generationally loyal to the same way many Americans are to their local diner.
In Daniel’s case, he inherited his love for Les Parigots République from a Parisian friend who’s a habitué of the place. It’s a warmly lit, frequently crowded restaurant with mismatched stools at a bar overflowing with bottles, bowls, and glass carafes, simple wooden tables, and cane-back chairs spilling out onto the sidewalk. A colorful cast of local characters rounds it off, making it all come alive.
Courtesy of LES PARIGOTS“We squeezed into a banquette, and there were old ladies at the table next to us, and this cat roaming around the restaurant. We had our coats in a pile in this very relaxed and casual, quintessential neighborhood bistro,” he says.
Adding to its rustic vibe, Les Parigots’s steak au poivre came out on a wooden carving board and reflected what Daniel has always wanted his own steak au poivre to be: loaded with peppery flavor and casual yet prepared with careful and deliberate technique.
Courtesy of LES PARIGOTS“You’re having a good time, you’re drinking wine, having good food, and no one cares if you’ve knocked a fry off the plate,” he says. “My steak au poivre recipe tries to capture that.”
Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse59 Bd du Montparnasse
Bouillons are something like “a bistro or a brasserie meets a cafeteria,” says Daniel of these historic Parisian dining halls that once catered to a largely working class clientele.
The Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse is a location of one of the originals, with art nouveau designs blooming out of seemingly every corner, from the flower-bulb wall sconces and standing lamps to the elaborately wood-framed mirrors and wall tiles covered in scenes of creeping blossoms and sinuous vines under ornate stained-glass ceilings.
Adriana Parrilla for Serious EatsParisians have rediscovered their love of these places anew, and when Daniel went, the line was “spilling out the front” despite the fact that the restaurant was serving “easily 100 people at once”—young people and old, families and solo diners, a real microcosm of Paris as a whole.
The food hearkens back to Bouillon’s roots as a place for 19th-century workers to get their fill after shifts: unfussy, traditional French food, filling and inexpensive but done well. Think pink slabs of country terrines with stick-to-your-ribs meatiness, hearty and savory bouef Bourguignon, quenelles of pike swimming in creamy sauces, and crunchy, slightly bitter celeriac remoulade. And, of course, a custard dish filled with chocolate mousse or a mound of rice pudding to finish the meal.
"I highly recommend visiting a bouillon, just not necessarily for the food," says Daniel. "It's really about the bustling scene, and the history of these restaurants." Just as a '50s diner might be considered an essential American restaurant experience despite the food often being unremarkable, the slapdash fare at many bouillons comes out quickly and doesn't show much attention to detail: "My gribiche was clearly just mayo scooped from a tub of premade stuff with a small amount of minced pickle and caper stirred in." Still, the meat it was served with was “boiled and tender and gelatinous, making your lips sticky and wonderful; the wine was drinkable and cheap; and the atmosphere was gruff but fun.” All in all, worth it.
Chez Aline85 Rue de la Roquette
Though eating on the go is basically a mortal sin in France, Paris is a busy city, and the people do often need a relatively quick meal. Though tiny Chez Aline is a humble sandwich shop, it has queues that get long at lunchtime and can keep the staff busy wrapping incredible baguette sandwiches in white paper. No one has an excuse for not being ready with their orders, because the daily menu is written in silver marker on the outside wall right next to the front door.
Daniel made sure to order the sauce gribiche because he was working on his own recipe for the eggy, capery condiment. He ordered a fried chicken cutlet sandwich with the gribiche smeared on the split baguette.
“In a sandwich, this is a sauce that is playing on many levels, adding the moisture element, the condiment notes with the salty-briny capers, the interesting texture from the diced boiled eggs, and brightness and freshness from herbs,” he says. “There’s no surprise why it’s so delicious with fatty meats and fresh green vegetables like asparagus.”
Des Gateaux et du Pain89 Rue du Bac
No trip to Paris is complete without a shopping expedition to a boulangerie and visit to a patisserie, but Des Gateaux et du Pain manages to combine both and then some in an elegantly sleek space that looks more like a museum exhibit on French design or a high-end jewelry store than a place to nip in for breakfast supplies or a dessert to bring to a party.
“The windows are shiny, the countertops are shiny, everything is lined up perfectly in the glass cases, and you feel like you’re in the lobby of a five-star hotel,” Genevieve says.
Adriana Parrilla for Serious EatsIt was also the perfect place for Genevieve to buy a mille-feuille, a pastry with a special place in her heart—one that she’s had as her birthday cake every year as a child—and it did not disappoint.
“It’s very hard to find a place that does mille-feuille well because it depends on the quality of the vanilla you use, the pastry cream, and how thick the puff pastry is—there are so many places it can go wrong,” Genevieve says. “Their pastry is so flaky and so delicious, and they used real vanilla in the pastry cream and glazed the top of their mille-feuille a little bit.”
So when she decided to come up with her own recipe for mille-feuille, Des Gateaux was one of the experiences she drew upon, though the result was “a different interpretation that is still delicious.”
City of DelightParisians love to cook and Parisians love to eat, and there’s a special kind of magic the city seems to infuse into every victual that passes from kitchen to plate to mouth, whether it’s from the local boulangerie, the chicest three-Michelin star restaurant, or the reach-down freezers at the nearest Picard grocery store. It’s that rare city where every trip is guaranteed to be a culinary adventure. So whether you treat our guide like a fixed itinerary or a springboard for your own unique food odyssey, take satisfaction in knowing that a paradise of good eating awaits.
Graeme Kennedy for Serious EatsA tourist mecca for gourmands and backpackers alike, the magical city of Bangkok is a gateway to Southeast Asia for many Westerners. Like many metropolises, it's a place of vast diversity, where saffron-robed monks practicing centuries-old traditions serenely meditate alongside Alpha Gen hipsters tapping away at their phones on the way to school; where dragon-headed wooden boats glide serenely over mirrorlike waters as tuk tuks putter noisily along riverside streets choking with traffic and street sellers haul rough sacks bulging with cassava over their backs.
Graeme Kennedy for Serious EatsThailand, known as the Land of Smiles for its people’s legendary hospitality, is a place where you’re almost always greeted with wide, warm smiles and treated as if you were a long-lost relative. It’s also a country of people immensely proud of their culture and their cuisine, and for good reason. Of course, if you’re reading this, then it’s the food scene you’re after, and Bangkok is a must for anyone who loves to eat—the flavors explode with every bite, from red-hot bird chile peppers that sear your taste buds to fresh fruits in every imaginable color whose sugary juices provide a sweet respite from Thailand’s notorious heat and humidity. Bangkok’s cuisine is known for scrumptious noodles bathed in rich broths and complex, layered curries; bright and punchy salads and intense, fiery dips perfect for crisp, fresh vegetables; sizzling satays and fragrant bowls of bone-warming soups, all typically available for just a few dollars—which is unbelievably low by American standards.
Graeme Kennedy for Serious EatsBut Bangkok’s mix of colors, flavors, fragrances, and sounds can be hard to navigate for the uninitiated, so for this installment of our Global Eats culinary travel series we’ve asked two of Serious Eats’ go-to Thai food experts to let you in on their favorite places to eat in the city. You’ll never get your yum yum mixed up with your tom yum again!
Graeme Kennedy for Serious EatsFor the best Bangkok tips, we called upon chef, cookbook author, YouTuber, and Serious Eats contributor Pailin Chongchitnant, a native of southern Thailand who lived in Bangkok from 13 until adulthood, and now lives in Canada. Her memories of growing up in Bangkok, learning to cook with her family, and her regular visits back to keep up with the city’s food developments are at the core of her writing and recipes; she’s a foremost expert not just on Thai cuisine but specifically the Bangkok food scene.
We also spoke with contributor Derek Lucci, a Brooklyn-based chef and food writer who has dedicated himself to perfecting Thai cuisine and bringing lesser-known Thai dishes to the US through online classes, supper clubs, and his recipes for Serious Eats. He fell in love with Thailand and its food almost a decade ago and continually explores the nooks and crannies of Bangkok via yearly trips to find the best the city has to offer, while honing and deepening his craft. Along with Chongchitnant, he’s revealing some of the hidden gems he’s found in the capital of the Land of Smiles.
One Night in BangkokBangkok—officially known as Krung Thep Maha Nakhon, or Krung Thep, for short—has been around since the 1400s, first as a trading post on the delta of the Chao Praya River, and then as the capital of a rapidly modernizing Siam (Thailand’s official name until 1939). However, it wasn’t officially founded until 1782. Since the late 20th century, it’s been a major financial center drawing in people from around the globe.
Graeme Kennedy for Serious EatsIt shouldn’t be surprising, then, that the cuisine of Bangkok is the result of centuries of influences, melding ancient cooking practices of the post-classical Sukhothai kingdom with those of Chinese and Indian traders and immigrants and neighboring and nearby countries like Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, and Indonesia, to name a few. And, then of course, there are the Westerners, especially the Portuguese, who brought the all-important chile peppers to Thailand in the 16th century, changing its food culture forever—a major milestone in a country where practically everyone seems to be a bona fide food lover.
Graeme Kennedy for Serious Eats“The diversity and availability of the food is overwhelming, even for me as a local, and every time I go back, it shocks me how much food there is everywhere—it’s an explosion of sensory input,” says Chongchitnant. “On the one hand, it’s exciting, but on the other, it’s overwhelming because you have no idea what to choose first, what’s good, what’s not good.”
Family RestaurantsSteve Cafe & Cuisine21 Sri Ayutthaya Rd, Bangkok 10300
Meals are not normally a solo affair for Thais; instead, they're usually eaten family-style, with everyone sharing from a communal table laid out with a fleet of plates and bowls of Thai soups (like the sweet and sour tom yam that’s likely a staple of your neighborhood Thai spot back home), curries, stir-fries, salads, and so on. This is great if you want to try a variety of new dishes.
The best place to get these kinds of sit-down meals are at general Thai restaurants—most street vendors specialize in specific foods, as do restaurants for certain kinds of foods, like noodle soups or some regional cuisines (like Isan).
Among the best “local-approved,” “general-purpose” family Thai restaurants, Chongchitnant says, is Steve Cafe & Cuisine—and yes, that’s the real name.
“Steve Cafe & Cuisine is right on the Chao Phraya River, and I know a Thai place called Steve may seem suspicious, but trust me,” she says.
It’s an airy, gaily decorated wood-framed place right on the water, where you can dig into a sweatingly hot curry from behind red-and-white-striped shades flapping in the wind to the same rhythm as the white-roofed ferry boats bobbing up and down across the river.
This is a good place to try a number of Thai dishes, including a bright-green gaeng khiao waan gai (green chicken curry), punchy gai pad king (chicken and ginger stir-fry), or a rich and savory moo palo (pork-belly stew with eggs), which you can wash down with mouth-puckeringly sour and spicy tom yam pla (fish soup). The great thing about family-style places like Steve Cafe is that if you don’t like one dish, you can help yourself to the next plate with no repercussions!
Soei RestaurantSoi Phibun Watthana 6, Samsen Nai, Phaya Thai, Bangkok 10400
Though farther out from central Bangkok and not quite as charming in terms of décor as Steve Cafe—don’t be surprised if you end up sitting down on a folding chair at a folding table on linoleum under a backlit gallery of the dishes for sale—the food at Soei is the real thing, and it has an impressively comprehensive menu of Thai dishes, Lucci says.
Graeme Kennedy for Serious Eats“Must-tries include the lemongrass salad, jungle curry, crispy fried mackerel heads, and their standout yam khai dao [fried egg salad]—my recipe is practically a copycat of theirs!” he says. The spot is well known amongst locals and food lover’s alike, and it’ll definitely give you something to write home about.
Supanniga Eating RoomRiva Arun Hotel River Front, 392/25-26 Maharaj Road, Phra Borom Maharajawang, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok 10200
Thailand’s distinctive temples, with their symbolically significant, ornate intricacies and soaring towers, are muses not only for artists of the canvas, but cooks of the stovetop. When she’s in need of inspiration herself, Chongchitnant gazes at Bangkok’s most important and beautiful, Wat Arun, or Temple of Dawn, right from a table at Supanniga Eating Room in Tha Tien Chong. The sleek, modern dining room would fit in perfectly in Brooklyn or Los Angeles, and spills out onto a deck over the water. Wat Arun towers over the opposite bank, and you can hear the pilots calling out to each from their long, spear-nosed boats as they take passengers from shore to shore.
Inside, the restaurant is a showcase for casual and friendly service and traditional foods taken straight from the owner’s grandmother’s own recipes. The colorful presentation—brightly colored dishes blooming like flowers on playfully patterned plates and bowls—is almost enough to distract your eyes from those amazing views, but it might take the enticing scent of dishes, like their florally fragrant crabmeat fried rice, rich grilled prawns, and gaeng massaman (a rich, coconutty beef curry with peanuts), to finally bring your attention to the succulent dishes in front of you. It’s meals like these that have earned Supanniga Eating Room repeated Michelin Guide nods.
Noodle ShopsTalat Phlu Beef Noodle Soup 1117 Thanon Thoet Thai, Talat Phlu, Thon Buri
No Website
Noodle soups occupy a different category in Thai minds than family sit-down restaurants, so if you’ve got a hankering for noodles, you must head to a noodle soup shop. Lucky for you, Bangkokians love noodles, so there’s no shortage of options to choose from.
Graeme Kennedy for Serious Eats“Noodle soups are everywhere in Thailand, but they’re especially common in Bangkok, thanks to the city’s deep Chinese roots,” says Lucci. “My recommendation? Try as many noodle stalls as you can. You don’t need to hunt for them—they’re right in front of you.”
That said, a great place to start is Talat Phlu Beef Noodle Soup, one of the places Lucci calls “the backbone of every noodle soup recipe I’ve developed for Serious Eats. They specialize in clear-style beef noodle soups, but the process behind their broths is similar to what I use in my duck broth and boat noodle recipes.”
Talat Phlu Beef Noodle SoupGraeme Kennedy for Serious EatsIt’s far from fancy—you hunch over stainless-steel tables in a space with the ambience of a cafeteria among locals and workers lugging steaming bins of broth and noodles to and fro—but it’s at the heart of recipes like Lucci’s guaydtiaao moo nam sai, in which tender pork meatballs swim with garlic-fried egg noodles in a fragrant broth.
Thongsmith Noodles ShopMultiple Locations
Lucci’s not the only one singing the praises of Bangkok’s noodle soups—Chongchitnant has fallen hard for a particular restaurant’s take on boat noodles, which have a long history in river-centric Bangkok.
Graeme Kennedy for Serious Eats“On my last trip, I fell in love with boat soup, which is thickened with liquid beef or pork blood,” she says. “Historically, they were sold on boats,” hence the name, “but recently there have been places that use high-quality beef for the foundation of a good boat soup, and you can taste the difference. If you have one soup in Thailand, you should have boat soup.”
Chongchitnant recommends Thongsmith, a chain with several location, as the best place to get boat soup shops are tidy and comfortable—think earth tones, padded booths, and wall sketches of Thai boats plying their trade on the Chao Praya—and the soups really stand out, with one particular dish that was so rich and flavorful that it changed Chongchitnant’s whole way of thinking about shop-bought boat soup.
Graeme Kennedy for Serious Eats
“Most noodle soup shops are cheap and cheerful places—they’ll be on the cheap side but won’t show you the maximum potential of noodle soups,” says Chongchitnant. “But Thongsmith has a wagyu beef soup. The first time I was there, I was like, ‘This seems gimmicky.’ But then I tried it and I was like, ‘Wow, now I get it.’ And it’s going to be like $10, so I’m not asking you to splurge here.”
Isan CuisineSom Tom Jay SoPhiphat 2, Si Lom, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500
No Website
Graeme Kennedy for Serious EatsThe 20 northeastern Thai provinces that make up the region of Isan on the border of Cambodia are geographically, culturally, and culinarily distinct from Bangkok and the rest of the country, but the food—known for its bold, bracing flavors and incorporating ingredients like lime, fresh fruits and vegetables, dried shrimp, and peanuts with sticky rice in savory and complex salads—is extremely popular with Bangkokians. There’s an entire genre of Isan restaurants that are unique from other Thai eateries and that you can find almost anywhere in the city.
Som Tom Jay SoGraeme Kennedy for Serious Eats“Bangkok Isan still delivers big flavors with the usual suspects like laab, papaya salad, and all sorts of grilled meats,” says Lucci.
Som Tom Jay SoGraeme Kennedy for Serious EatsThough it may look like a shopworn grocer from the street—complete with a dingy plastic water cooler, open boxes of cut coconuts for sale, and a fading, sagging awning that has clearly seen better days—Som Tom Jay So, in the Silom area, is a dependable place that honors the Isan palate, says Lucci. Pull up a plastic red stool to one of the folding metal tables and order one of the aforementioned sour, sweet, salty, and spicy regional favorites or an Isan dish less known to Western diners, like gaeng om gai, a brothy dill chicken curry that’ll likely upend what you think you know about Thai curries. It’s a tried-and-true Bangkok restaurant where Lucci can refresh his concepts and palate for Isan cuisine and come up with ideas, like that laab papaya salad recipe of his.
Som Tom Jay SoGraeme Kennedy for Serious Eats“They nail the classics every time and have a style that’s all their own,” says Lucci.
Phed Phed BistroMultiple Locations
Phed Phed Bistro is a restaurant specializing in Isan food that has earned Michelin Guide recognition and, more importantly, raves from locals, who swarm it every lunch and dinner. It has an unique aesthetic—like the decorator had to use a massive, expiring Container Store coupon for wire-mesh shelving units, and the rigid stone booth partitions and padded benches sit at harsh 90-degree angles that make your spine ache just looking at them—but the focus here, of course, is on the food.
And that food easily transports diners to the realm of pleasure, with spartan but brimming bowls of Isan salads and other dishes, which emphasize textural contrast—like the heaping fruit matchsticks of a papaya salad sopping with sour-sweet juice and punctuated with firetruck-red peppers, then topped with a hoard of crunchy-salty light green Thai pumpkin seeds that look like a jumble of jade teardrops.
That papaya salad is among the dishes Chongchitnant gets at Phed Phed, but she’s also a big fan of the laab, a simple ground pork dish that is somehow simultaneously salty, sour, spicy, nutty, and full of umami; and the khao niao mamuang (mango sticky rice), a popular glutinous, salty-sweet confection that’s complexly tropical and not just your standard American-style after-meal sugar delivery system.
Markets and Food CourtsChatuchak Market587, 10 Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd, Khwaeng Chatuchak, Chatuchak, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10900
Bangkok is a city of street merchants, whether they line a congested thoroughfare with fleets of seemingly daredevil tuk tuks or crowd one of the city’s countless, scarcely more sedate markets.
Lucci recommends those curious about Bangkok’s street food scene to wander down Banthat Thong Road, “which has everything from stalls selling pork satay to sit-down restaurants.”
A sit down restaurant at Chatuchak Weekend Market,Getty Images / MLADEN ANTONOV / ContributorThe sprawling weekend Chatuchak Market, though “super touristy,” Chongchitnant warns, is a good place to find one of the small, two- or three-wheeled carts selling coconut ice cream as you weave through endless rows of stalls strewn with cookware, artwork, and knick knacks.
“Coconut ice cream’s going to come with sticky rice, and it’s a must-try while you’re in Thailand,” she says. “And you should make sure you get the coconut ice cream from a cart, because the fancier places like to add milk and cream, which isn’t as good and takes away from the taste of the coconut.”
MBK Food Legends444 Phaya Thai Rd, Wang Mai, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330
No Website
Though Americans in search of “authentic” food experiences often go to Southeast Asia with fantasies of finding an “exotic” hole in the wall in the middle of a steaming rainforest, the truth is that the real Bangkokian experience is less “hot tropics” and more Hot Topic.
That’s right: When Bangkokians go out to eat, they’re probably going to their favorite mall food court, Chongchitnant says. And besides the fact that the food in almost any Bangkok food court will put Panda Express and Chick-fil-A to shame, these climate-controlled courts are also a practical choice in a country where you can essentially paddle down to the equator. It’s also where Chongchitnant goes to get her fill of one of her favorite comfort foods, Hainanese chicken rice, a dish that reminds her of her Hainanese grandmother.
“Food court food is basically street food brought into AC,” she says. “It’s perfect for a quick one-dish meal such as noodle soups, fried rice, and rice-and-meat combo dishes such as Hainanese chicken rice (also a must-have in Thailand). Malls to us are the equivalent of going downtown.”
Chongchitnant’s go-to food court for lunch is the centrally located MBK Food Legends, which she describes as a spot that's “not overly fancy but has all the basic fare you'd expect”—including curry, stir-fry, noodle soup, salad (or “yum” in Thai), and Isan stalls. With luck, you might be able to find freshly made examples of her favorite Thai dessert, kanom krok, little coconut milk-rice pancakes that have a crispy, hemispherical shell and luscious, custardy innards
Sure, going to the mall for a meal might bring up memories of your “hot” weekend nights in seventh-grade suburbia—reinforced by the neon lights and ‘80s-style décor of many a Bangkok food court—but this is the real Bangkok local food experience; the food is usually amazing, and you might even go home with a Day-Glo fanny pack. It’s a win-win all around!
Tips for Eating Out in BangkokThais are renowned for their hospitality, but navigating Southeast Asian customs can be intimidating to Westerners who are visiting for the first time or aren't well versed in the culture. Here are a couple tips for first-timers who want to enjoy Bangkok’s wonderful food scene with the least amount of fuss.
- Look for places locals eat. “Because Bangkok is extremely touristy, if you don’t see any locals eating where you’re eating, that’s a bad sign,” says Chongchitnant.
She blames that on some Thais being too hospitable and not taking enough pride in the Thai palate, changing menus to make Western tourists more comfortable instead of challenging them to try anything remotely novel or authentically Thai.
“Thai vendors are very accommodating, so if the clientele is mainly foreigners, they’ll make it more palatable for foreigners,” she says. “You can tell if the guests are local if they’re wearing flip-flops and carrying their purses and not bags for travel.” * Explore outside the city center. Bangkok has been one of the top tourist destinations in the world for a long time now, and it shows in how much the city center has changed over the decades. Don’t bother trying to remember where one neighborhood begins and another ends—the city grew over centuries in a haphazard way that confuses even the locals. Instead, think of it in terms of its skytrain lines, which basically radiate out from the biggest station, Siam BTS station, in the Pathum Wan District.
“Everything within a six- or seven-stop radius of the Siam station is pretty touristy,” says Chongchitnant. “If you venture a little off the core downtown, you will find malls that are accessible through the skytrain and less touristy.” * Don’t be offended when you’re given forks. No, the waiter didn’t give you a fork because you’re Western, and you don’t need to ask for chopsticks to blend in with the locals. Thais have primarily eaten with forks for nearly two centuries, thanks to the Westernizing and anticolonialist edicts of King Mongkut (still best known to many Americans as portrayed by Yul Brynner in “The King and I”). Still, you don’t bring the food-laden fork directly to your mouth—it’s used to push the food onto a spoon, which is what you actually eat from.
“I don’t know how you’re going to eat curry on non-sticky rice with chopsticks,” says Chongchitnant. Chopsticks, on the other hand, are still used for noodles in Thailand.
Thai OptionalFrom the moment you step out of the airport in Bangkok, you’ll likely be embraced by a place where hospitality is ingrained in the bones, the mouthwatering fragrances of floral jasmine rice and prickly curries fill the streets, and every meal offers the opportunity to try one of the many genres of Thai cuisine. The capital of the Land of Smiles is the best kind of adventure—go ahead and take a bite.
Special thanks to Boat Paveenaorn Duangoen for her production assistance and support in Bangkok for this photoshoot.
An Rong Xu for Serious EatsTaipei is a rare place where food is an unapologetic feature of the cityscape. Vendors set up shop in slim alleyways, slinging out greasy pockets of scallion pancakes stuffed with cheese; braised chicken wing stalls pop up on street corners once the sun sets. In Taipei, food isn’t confined to brick-and-mortars; insead, it spills out into the streets. Night markets take up entire neighborhoods, where pedestrians graze from stall to stall holding fistfuls of skewers. There are breakfast shops open 24/7, where the smell of freshly brewed hot soymilk and deep-fried dough wafts onto busy streets. And lots of restaurants have outdoor seating, with tables sprawled out on the sidewalks on a busy Friday night.
Raohe Night MarketAn Rong Xu for Serious EatsIn fact, food in Taipei is so cheap and plentiful that most young people in Taiwan don’t actually know how to cook. It makes sense: A bowl of beef noodle soup or a plate of dumplings goes for just a couple of dollars, which is much less than it costs to buy the ingredients and make the same dishes at home.
At a glance, Taiwan may seem like a homogenous society. But with multiple waves of immigration spread out over two centuries, it is actually quite a diverse country and home to a bunch of different dining options—from quaint tea houses to grab-and-go street vendors. The island has no shortage of vibrant culinary experiences.
Lao Jiang's HouseAn Rong Xu for Serious EatsThere is one caveat: With the exception of the traditional markets and the breakfast shops, most establishments in the city don’t open until well after 11 a.m. The city is the most vibrant in the evening, with office workers and school children filing out after a long day for a quick bite to eat and staying late into the night.
On this stop in Serious Eats’ tour of the some greatest culinary cities in the world, I’m taking you on a journey through Taipei—including the seemingly endless markets, the idyllic tea houses, and lively restaurants. These spots have become deeply familiar to me, informing much of my recipe development and how I’ve come to know and think of Taiwanese cuisine.
What constitutes a good restaurant or dining experience is, of course, subjective. I’ve lived in Taipei full-time for four years now, and prior to that I spent more than 25 years visiting friends and family on the island. My childhood memories of Taipei were centered around street food because my parents, who had moved to the States, were not keeping tabs on fancy new restaurant openings. During our short visits, they wanted hearty bites from reliable vendors–an approach I’ve since adopted as my own. Today, as a Taiwanese cookbook author and food journalist based in Taipei, I’ve come to put less weight on what’s trendy and new, and more on the establishments that have weathered the course of time and stayed consistent and true to their food.
Step Into This Market CityHome to nearly 2.5 million people, Taipei's many neighborhoods each offer something different. Dadaocheng, the oldest neighborhood in the city, is chock full of mom-and-pop stalls doling out pork trotter noodles or braised cuts of offal; Xinyi, the financial capital of the city, is known for its gaggle of bars with bespoke cocktails; and Da’an is home to a neighborhood of cozy coffee shops with happy cats snoozing in the corners.
An Rong Xu for Serious EatsFor a taste of bygone days, I recommend perusing a traditional market and keeping an eye on what the aunties are buying. To see how the average office worker unwinds, consider going to a rechao—an outdoor beer restaurant that doles out quick plates of screaming-hot stir fries.
Here are some of my favorite culinary experiences in Taipei:
MarketsNingxia Night Market 103, Taiwan, Taipei City, Datong District, Ningxia Rd, 58號2樓
Taiwanese night markets aren’t as vibrant as they used to be—many have become gentrified or just tourist hubs—but Ningxia is a staunch exception. It’s one of the few night markets dedicated to just food, and many of the stalls are still family-owned instead of franchises (the latter of which is increasingly the norm).
An Rong Xu for Serious EatsMy cookbook, Made in Taiwan: Recipes and Stories from the Island Nation, has an entire section on night markets, and during my research process I realized that a successful night market dish should not only be portable, but also deliver bold, memorable flavors in a single bite. You're guaranteed this experience at Ningxia market, which is really just one long row of food vendors where you can snack on long skewers threaded with deep-fried chewy squid balls seasoned with a generous dab of white pepper or paper bags stuffed with five-spice scented popcorn chicken. If you need a break from walking, you can reserve a table at one of the restaurants along the market and have all the best bites from the vendors, like gloopy oyster omelets and breaded chicken cutlets, brought right to you.
Shi-Dong Market 士東市場No. 100, Shidong Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, Taiwan 111
When it comes to quality, few traditional markets compare to Shi-Dong Market. Unlike the average market, Shi-Dong is entirely indoors which, honestly, is an asset because air conditioning keeps the produce and meat fresher for longer—especially in a hot and humid subtropical country like Taiwan.
Established in 1992, Shi-Dong is located in the affluent neighborhood of Tianmu. Prices are a tad higher than the average market, but everything is consistently top-notch (it’s one of the few traditional markets where the fruits and vegetables are stacked in neat pyramids).
Stock up on bright green bouquets of water spinach, sun-gold mangoes, and pink heirloom spears of daikon. Or, consider freshly made silky tofu or expertly butchered pork. Another plus: Everything is always sparkling clean. Some may dismiss this overly manicured market as sterile, but as I’ve gotten older, I’ve begun to value the higher standard of sanitation and appreciate when raw ingredients are kept at safe temperatures to preserve their freshness and quality.
RestaurantsLao Jiang's House 106, Taiwan, Taipei City, Da’an District, Yanji St, 110號1F
Lao Jiang's HouseAn Rong Xu for Serious EatsMost traditional breakfast shops in Taiwan have an antiquated vibe with short plastic stools and terrazzo tiles. Lao Jiang’s, however, is the exception, run by a team of young folks who are more than willing to innovate. With laminate flooring and faux Nordic furniture, it looks more like a Western coffee shop than a typical Taipei breakfast joint. Yet the menu draws from proven breakfast classics like compacted rice rolls filled with pork floss, crisp fried crullers, and dan bing—a Taiwanese egg crêpe dotted with scallions. Open 24 hours, it’s also one of my favorite spots to people watch.
Drbeef East Gate No. 70號, Linyi St, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City, Taiwan 100
Controversial take: I’m not the biggest fan of traditional Taiwanese beef noodle soup—the type flavored with hefty amounts of soy sauce, star anise, and fermented bean paste. I find that it masks the inherent flavor of the beef. The preparation was historically used to cover up low-quality meat, but nowadays with advanced supply chains and refrigeration, all that seasoning isn’t needed. In fact, I’ve noticed more chefs leaning towards subtler broths that are lighter and less pronounced.
Most of the beef in Taiwan these days is imported from the United States and Australia, and the mark of a modern, good beef noodle soup is when the natural flavor of the meat shines through. It seems that Drbeef agrees with me because they are known for their minimalistic broth, which is poured over paper-thin slices of raw beef at the table.
Baxian GrillNo. 28號, Section 2, Xinsheng S Rd, Da’an District, Taipei City, Taiwan 106
Baxian is a rechao establishment. The word rechao translates to “hot stir-fry” in Mandarin Chinese and refers to a type of dinner-only restaurant—usually with outdoor seating by the street—serving Taiwanese classics like greasy plates of fried rice, spicy braised stinky tofu, and stir-fried clams swimming in garlic with a hit of fresh basil. Everything is typically washed down by an ice cold glass of beer.
Of all the different formats of food that Taipei has to offer, the rechao is my all-time favorite. Their menus are dozens of items long, and many of them have a fresh fish tank at the front where patrons can select fish to be cooked to-order. Most of the dishes are whipped up in giant woks over hot flames. Perched on the edge of a park, with an outdoor second-floor patio adorned with hanging yellow lanterns, Baxian is a perfect spot for visitors to dive into Taiwan’s late-night dining scene.
Tea HousesJinjiang Tea House No. 1, Jinjiang St, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City, Taiwan 100
No Website
This is Hakka-style fare in an old, wooden Japanese colonial-era house, where the front wall is covered with drooping, bright pink bougainvilleas. Nestled in the heart of the city, the restaurant is a welcome respite in a sea of concrete and steel.
Hakka food refers to the cuisine of a migratory group with Chinese ancestry. It is rich in pickled vegetables and generally saltier and more rustic than mainstream Taiwanese food (in the best way possible). It feels like you’re dining in someone’s living room here. Get the poached chicken with a bright kumquat dipping sauce, and sautéed fern with pickled bird lime seeds, which add a pop of acidity. They also serve lei cha, a nutty, warm beverage made with toasted ground up sesame seeds, peanut, and tea.
Wisteria Tea HouseNo. 1號, Lane 16, Section 3, Xinsheng S Rd, Da’an District, Taipei City, Taiwan 106
Wisteria is a north star when it comes to classic gongfu tea houses in Taipei. Gongfu refers to a traditional style of brewing tea with small tea cups.Built in the 1920s by the Japanese, it was converted into a place for tea in the 1980s and notably became a clandestine gathering spot for artists, intellectuals, and political dissidents during their struggle for Taiwanese democracy.
Wisteria Tea HouseGetty Images / Alberto Buzzola / ContributorWhile it’s no longer a secret destination, Wisteria is still host to a handful of art exhibitions and classes. Their menu is an homage to traditional Taiwanese tea (mostly oolongs), but they also have quite a few rare varieties of pu-erh cakes that retail for up to NT $40,000 (more than $1,000 USD). Most uniquely, they use water from the Wu Lai Mountain Spring for tea, which has a soft, alkaline taste and isn’t as harsh as tap or regular store-bought mineral water. This is my go-to place for folks who are visiting Taiwan for the first time; I like to reserve the tatami-lined rooms for a more intimate experience.
Let the City Be Your GuideDespite the inevitable ebbs and flows, Taipei dining has remained impressively affordable and vibrant over the decades. The sheer variety—from 24/7 breakfast joints to quaint tea houses—is staggering. If planning a food itinerary feels overwhelming, just head out to a busy street in the early evening and let the city guide you. I guarantee you’ll stumble across a lively parade of delicious options—because in Taipei, you’re never far from the next great bite.
Kevin Vaughn for Serious EatsBuenos Aires is a city whose cultural identity is often whittled down to tales of Italian immigrants arriving to the New World and constructing a city in Paris’ likeness. Wander its streets around 5 p.m. as porteños head home, and it almost makes sense. Shaded by ornate neoclassical buildings, people spill into corner cafes, dip into pasta shops and bakeries for fresh noodles and bread, or select produce from bright vegetable stands for dinner. Yet that simple Eurocentric narrative camouflages Buenos Aires’ real diversity, including all the other waves of immigrants who steadily arrived from across Europe, the Levant, the Caucasus, East Asia, and Latin America.
Kevin Vaughn for Serious EatsSerious Eats is visiting some of its favorite culinary destinations around the world, and our next stop is Buenos Aires. This city is a melting pot whose contents haven’t fully blended, with diverse communities centralized in specific neighborhoods. This guide is an attempt to summarize my 15 years of exploring its ingredients—both literal and figurative—as a cook, food writer, and curious diner. I’ll show you some of my favorite restaurants, markets, and shops in the city and share plenty of Serious Eats recipes—some my own, and some from other contributors—for making various Argentine specialties at home, including alfajores, empanadas, and pork chops.
Getting to Know Buenos Aires Through Its FoodBack in 2010, when I was getting ready to move to Buenos Aires, my grandfather told me that the quickest way to make new friends was inviting them over to eat. And so once a week, I invited new friends over for a meal. These weekly communions are what pushed me toward food as my professional North Star—running a food tourism business, writing recipes and their origins, and launching my California-Mexican inspired pop-up, MASA, collaborating with cooks I admire all over Buenos Aires. There are some dishes that are burned into my memory: empanadas stuffed with chile verde I cooked for a pop-up event at RonConCon or these ricotta balls with puttanesca for Serious Eats.
Kevin Vaughn for Serious EatsOver the last decade and a half of living in this city, my understanding of Buenos Aires and its food culture was molded by countless cross-city searches for good ingredients. Argentina’s economy is in a constant cycle of crisis. When people are always strapped for cash, they play it safe and cruise for deals at the grocery store. Shelves are packed with beef, eggs, bread, dry pasta, and a handful of veggies and canned goods. For ambitious home cooks and chefs, that means anything beyond the basics requires a special trip. A grocery list isn’t just a list of ingredients; it’s a chance to unravel another layer of the city. A trip to Liniers, a neighborhood on the southeast edges of the city, to buy a block of Bolivian queso fresco, spearmint, and dried mote (hominy) is only complete once I’ve eaten a salteña and bowl of peanut soup at the restaurant Miriam’s.
In that time, I’ve found the lone Mexican vendor who sells tomatillos, met the purveyors who bring handmade cayenne pepper from the northern Andes, and scoured the city’s cheese shops for the perfect mixture of queso. I’ve become a regular fixture at my choice vegetable stands and butcher shops and the cafes and restaurants that fuel my shopping, befriending their makers and probably asking too many questions about the minutiae of the city’s old school Italo-Hispano bodegones.
The house recommends snails in a tomato-rich broth.Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnEvery once in a while, Buenos Aires restaurateurs become captivated with food from another place. Today, you’ll spot George Motz-style smash burgers, Tartine sourdough, and Australian coffee drinks on menus across the city. But, increasingly, as the melting pot begins to simmer, that infatuation is turning inward towards Buenos Aires' varied foodscapes, widening the culinary narrative and making Buenos Aires a more singular and exciting place to dine.
Courtesy of Atelier FuerzaLately, I stare at menus and wonder where the head chef does their shopping and how those deep dives into the city sway their menu building. This guide is a small list of makers who inspire my own cooking and food writing to pull the lens back a little further, artisans who maintain time-tested traditions with an unbendable commitment to quality and care, and cooks and restaurateurs who reinvent and reimagine what it means to cook and eat in Buenos Aires.
Where to Eat and Shop in Buenos AiresArgotAv. Álvarez Jonte 2744, Villa Santa Rita
I have a growing collection of vintage Argentine cookbooks, newspaper supplements, and food magazines. But while prepping for my costillas a la Riojana recipe, I went straight to Argot, a centennial bar where light always casts moody shadows across the original wood bar and tiled floor. There, I poured over the bookshelf of baker Kenya Ama and her partner Alejo Benitez, budding restaurateurs behind this retro porteño cafe and restaurant and the old school pizzeria, El Lunfardo, just across the street.
Kevin Vaughn for Serious EatsPorteño cuisine is wildly misunderstood. More often than not, it’s distilled into fables of Italian and Spanish immigration. And while it’s undeniable that Italo-Hispano influences leave the most visible mark on Buenos Aires kitchens, the history of immigration is vast and interwoven.
Kenya has built a following around her sentimental baked goods, but a close look at the dinner menu shows a kitchen divorced from traditional culinary narratives. Recognizable Italian-ish favorites like fried fish “a la romana” with mashed potatoes sit alongside playful mash-ups, like mbeju (a mandioca starch pancake) topped with kimchi and a fried egg, a nod to Northeast Argentina’s Guarani heritage and the restaurants proximity to Koreatown. The restaurant is a reminder that a city’s cuisine isn’t preserved in amber.
Atelier FuerzaMultiple Locations
Baker Francisco Seubert’s first encounters with bread began in the rural city of Rafaela, lending a hand at his then girlfriend’s family bakery after long nights out dancing. Compared to a nightclub, the quiet routines of a bakery at dawn must have felt like meditation. Something clicked.
In the two decades that followed, Seubert went from selling bread on his bicycle to building a mini empire of bakeries in Buenos Aires—a total of 13 since 2018. The first Atelier Fuerza, a tiny dispensary with enough room for a display case and an espresso machine, is a few blocks from my apartment. Trips to grab barras (similar to a baguette), alfajores, and medialunas (a sweet brioche-croissant hybrid brushed in simple syrup), best enjoyed under a shady bench in the adjoining plaza, mark the beginning, middle, and end of my week.
Courtesy of Atelier FuerzaIt isn’t just Seubert’s dedication to good bread that inspires. It’s his insatiable hunger for learning and celebrating Argentine baking. Traditional recipes are still mostly passed down orally, creating a disconnect with young bakers who turn to their social media feeds for inspiration. Seubert scoured the country, gleaning knowledge from bakeries and their customers to fill his display cases and compile an extensive cookbook, Fran Hace Pan, that celebrates more widely known breads with European ancestry and regional and indigenous preparations (Guarani-style mandioca breads, Andean corn “capia” alfajores) in equal measure. Keep your eyes on Seubert, as he’s working out the finishing touches on a new bakery that promises to be even more Argentino.
La CocinaAv. Pueyrredón 1508, Recoleta
Florida 142 #60, Microcentro
Enter, stage left: empanada police. When it comes to making Argentina’s favorite handheld, there’s one non-negotiable—it must be baked or fried to order. Yet, Buenos Aires’ big city rhythm often means that they’re cooked in large batches, crammed into a display case, and quickly reheated shudders in a microwave. Even empanadas that get a quick shock in the oven are often soggy and bland.
Kevin Vaughn for Serious EatsThe crew at La Cocina rejects modernity and embraces tradition. From a nondescript counter on the ground floor of a Brutalist strip mall in the city center, office dwellers take a midday break to eat empanadas from the Andean region of Catamarca. Here, the kitchen is so orthodox that their empanadas are more conservationist than the ones I tried during a month-long crawl through Catamarca. The old school Catamarcan recipe dictates that beef is chopped into cubes by hand, sometimes so itty-bitty that it feels like a chunky ground chorizo. Back in Catamarca, cooks restandardized the recipe with ground beef for the sake of speed and simplicity, despite life’s slower pace there and a filling that’s arguably a downgrade (greasier, dulled down flavor). I’ve developed several empanada recipes, from Chaqueno-style charqui to Salteño-style cheese, and La Cocina nudges me to treat patience as important an ingredient as any.
Gordo ChantaJuan Ramírez de Velasco 1200, Villa Crespo
When I feel good, I go to Gordo Chanta to celebrate. When I’m bored or feeling blue, it’s my go-to pick-me-up. When I’m untangling the details of a story I'm writing, I grab a seat at the bar to talk it out with whoever will listen. I’ve tried every item on the menu at least five times since this pizzeria opened in 2020. And yet, I never grow tired of a grilled pumpkin and tahini salad, provolone-stuffed faina (an unleavened pancake made from chickpea flour), and bok choy and chili crisp pizza. I always arrive excited and leave surprised, like I’m a teenager again, silently watching R-rated movies while my parents sleep in the next room.
Kevin Vaughn for Serious EatsJuan Carlos Ortiz is the brains behind Gordo Chanta, an intimate corner shop with an imposing wall of wine and open kitchen that offers a prime view of the pizza oven. Gordo Chanta skirts any attempt at definition, which is befitting given the name. The term is a localism that’s impossible to translate—somewhere between a smooth-talking used car salesman and a fun fling you’re ashamed to introduce to your friends.
The crew plays around with that sense of guilt-free hedonism, putting what tastes good and feels fun on a pedestal rather than adhering to subjective rules about what you can or can’t do at a pizza shop—an attitude I apply to cooking, writing, and entertaining. Does a fish tostada appetizer, low intervention wine, and a Héctor Lavoe mural in the bathroom make sense in a Buenos Aires pizzeria? Should a pizza inspired by “papas a la huancaina” (a Peruvian dish of sliced potatoes and creamy yellow pepper salsa) sit next to a traditional marinara? Who cares! We’re here to eat and have a good time.
Gran DabbangRaúl Scalabrini Ortiz 1543, Palermo
The biggest challenge as a food writer working abroad is how loaded notions of authenticity limit storytelling. Does a team of Argentine chefs cooking with all Argentine ingredients make a dish Argentine by default? Or must everything include beef and a glass of Malbec?
Courtesy of Gran DabbangI’ve long admired Mariano Ramón for his maneuverings around questions of authenticity. At Gran Dabbang, cooks squeeze between tightly packed tables and chairs to quickly explain dishes to curious diners. Ramón pulls inspiration from years spent in Southeast Asia and sifts it all through national ingredients produced by small farmers and local cooking traditions, most notably char and fire.
Courtesy of Gran DabbangBut, to borrow from media theorist Marshall McLuhan, Gran Dabbang is an unfortunate case of a message masked by its medium. Words like “dosa,” “kulcha,” and “keema” take up so much space on the menu that many categorize his kitchen as Indian rather than a new style of Argentine cuisine. If you check the fine print descriptions, you’ll see that 99% of the menu uses local ingredients, like grilled pacu river fish with wild aromatic kirkiña chutney or wild aguaribay berries and kumquats atop roti. These are foods and flavors you are hard pressed to find anywhere else— true representations of place, no matter what you call it.
José Juarroz / Cucha del PariBatalla del pari 916, Paternal
In Buenos Aires, it's never hard to find beef—within a two-block radius of my apartment, there are six butcher shops. Yet, beef is so omnipresent in the Argentine diet that buying high quality chicken, pork, and fish is a logistical nightmare. When it comes to pork, I head to José Juarroz, a charcutier who specializes in made-to-order cold cuts and sausages. When I was tasked with making a vegetarian version of classic ham and cheese sorrentinos, I turned to Juarroz’, who uses corn-fed pork and a simple mix of salt, pepper, and bay leaves to make his cured pork tenderloin; it inspired my herb-leaning king oyster mushroom filling. His Vienna-style sausages and pistachio mortadella are also regular staples in my fridge.
Luckily, you don't need a kitchen or grill to enjoy these items when you visit Buenos Aires. Spotting Juarroz’s name on a menu is a mark of a serious kitchen. You’re likely to catch his products at some of my favorite places, including in sandwiches at ADA and Rosie Café, adorning pizzas at Cancha and Fornole, or served on small plates at Naranjo and Condarco. Plus, Juarroz regularly hosts pop ups that attract long lines to grab a nostalgia-laced hot dog topped with crispy papas pay (shoestring fries), and by year’s end his production space will morph into a full-blown restaurant, Cucha del Pari.
The City That SimmersBuenos Aires is a melting pot, and its contents are just beginning to simmer. Its most exciting restaurants—best enjoyed with friends and plenty of time—offer snapshots of the final stew.
Hana Gamal for Serious EatsMost tourists go to Cairo to soak in millennia of history in the shadows of the pharaohs, but it’s hard to ignore the city’s vibrant food scene, which has changed fundamentally since the Arab Spring came to Egypt 13 years ago. Today, it’s a sprawling, sun-baked metropolis of steam-wreathed food carts under gleaming office buildings, merchants selling a rainbow of spices in buzzing, labyrinthine souks, and more and more family-run establishments offering specialty regional cuisines and patio seating by the Nile—all of this a stone's throw from dusty ancient monuments that have witnessed everything from the invention of beer to the Instagramming of the city’s hippest craft beer bars.
Hana Gamal for Serious EatsWelcome to Serious Eats' grand tour of Cairo dining, part of Global Eats, a series of guides to some of the world’s most important and exciting food cities. To inform these lists, we’ve turned to our most valuable assets—the chefs, cookbook authors, and recipe developers who both contribute their cooking expertise to the site and know these cities and their foods better than anyone. For Cairo, we spoke to our resident Egyptian culinary expert, Egyptian food writer and recipe developer Nermine Mansour, who was born and raised in and around Cairo, learning traditional Egyptian recipes under the watchful eye of her grandmother as a child and frequenting beloved Cairene restaurants as an adult student.
Though she now lives in the US, Mansour returns to the City of a Thousand Minarets as often as possible to further inform her recipe writing and culinary knowledge, searching the city’s centuries-old bazaars, food stands, and restaurants for ever deeper insights into her home cuisine. Here, Mansour shares some of her favorite places to eat in Al-Qāhirah, along with her love for the city that turned her into the cook and writer she is today.
Eat Like an EgyptianIt didn’t take long after the overthrow of strongman Hosni Mubarak for the Cairo food scene to change noticeably, Mansour says. First, there was a surge in the energetic street stall vendors lining the roads of downtown Cairo, who have since expanded their operations by adding tables and chairs around their carts. They’ve been joined by other street carts run by new immigrants from around the Middle East—now instead of just ta’ameya (Egyptian falafel), Cairenes can get Palestinian, Lebanese, and Syrian falafel at many corners in the city.
Hana Gamal for Serious EatsThe political transition also opened up a whole new dining scene for sit-down restaurants, including more traditional Egyptian fine-dining establishments, often with chefs who have trained in kitchens all over the world.
”Egypt is a food paradise for Americans and Europeans,” says Mansour. “You can get the best food in the country for almost nothing, and Egypt can cater to any dietary restriction, including vegan, gluten free, meat, seafood, and even keto. You can have a full meal for $1 or $2, and then you have top-tier restaurants where you can eat for $100 or $120. We have amazing sushi and steaks. We have chefs who trained in Tokyo, London, France—there’s no shortage of top-tier chefs.”
But it’s a city that can take some getting used to, especially if you’re coming from the US, she says. “Cairo is a love-it-or-hate-it city,” she says. “It’s loud, rowdy.”
Hana Gamal for Serious EatsAnd then there’s the food itself, which has “evolved big time in the last decade since the Arab Spring with the influx of refugees from Syria, Lebanon, Palestine,” she says. Though these nearby cuisines have long had a hand in the evolution of Egyptian food, these new Cairenes have added even more variety and nuance to a rich existing Egyptian cuisine—a cuisine that already has thousands of years of Mediterranean, North African, Ottoman, Indian, French, and other influences. In the last decade, what Mansour describes as “hardcore” Egyptian cuisine has taken off as Egyptians found a new sense of pride in their national identity.
RestaurantsKoshary Abou Tarek16 Marouf, Qasr El Nil, Cairo Governorate 4272135
Egyptian Christians, who make up about 10% of the population, fast around 200 days a year, 55 of them spent adhering to a strict siami (essentially vegan) diet. They and their dietary restrictions have played a huge role in shaping Egyptian cuisine, with one of the most popular siami dishes being koshari.
Hana Gamal for Serious EatsAmong the places that Mansour went to growing up and as a young adult was Koshary Abou Tarek, which started as a street cart in the mid-20th century and is now a modernized, three-story restaurant in the heart of downtown Cairo. She makes a point of returning at least once a year, and the place was one of the restaurants she had in mind when she developed her own koshari recipe for Serious Eats.
“I grew up eating [at] Abou Tarek because my parents’ apartment was in Downtown and I worked and was taking a Spanish class nearby; the quality has never gone down,” she says. “I’d go once or twice a week—you get a seat and within five minutes you get your dish, and it fills you the rest of the day!”
Hana Gamal for Serious EatsThe chefs at Abou Tarek layer white, square bowls first with rice and lentils, then pasta, chickpeas, and a blanket of tomato sauce before smothering it all in crispy onions and hot and garlicky sauces.
“It’s very easy to get one or more of the ingredients very mushy if the restaurant is not experienced, but they always nail it,” she says. “The crispy onions are just right, not oily, the pasta is a delight, and everything is just perfect.”
Seekh Mashwy Dokki106 Nile St, Ad Doqi, Dokki, Giza Governorate 3753452
Sometimes a homesick Egyptian just needs a place where they can get all the dishes they’ve been craving while abroad. For Mansour, those dishes include bissara (a bright green fava bean dip), molokhia (a fragrant jute mallow soup), kabab halla (braised beef), and koshari, of course, which she often finds at Seekh Mashwy Dokki, a modern, middle-class restaurant with intricately painted, tile-topped tables that overlook the Nile.
When Mansour was a child, her grandmother made family-sized batches of molokhia, and Mansour vividly remembers the matriarch painstakingly chopping up fresh jute leaves with a mezzaluna and then letting out an audibly loud gasp as she added the garlic-coriander paste to the simmering broth—this gasp is a traditional step that guarantees a tasty molokhia.
Seekh Mashwy Dokki overlooks the Nile from endless rows of tables along the narrow, green-carpeted deck. She makes a point of taking visitors there to impress them with Cairo’s food scene, like when her husband’s family visited from California.
“We had a foodstravaganza at Seek Mashwy, and the waiters poured the molokhia from a big pan into a clay pot, and everything was perfect,” she says. “The bread was freshly baked, our pita was made with whole wheat and bran with a smoky flavor, the molokhia was freshly made—everything was fresh.”
TanteTucano Commercial Complex, Youssef Abbas, St, Nasr City, Cairo Governorate 4434110
Fatta—slow-cooked beef in a garlic-vinegar sauce (and sometimes tomato sauce) over toasted pita and toasted basmati rice—is a dish that serves as the centerpiece of many an Egyptian celebration, and Mansour says it’s deeply tied to her memories of countless festivals and holidays growing up in Egypt.
When she’s back in the country and hankering for fatta without the fuss of making it in a home kitchen, she goes for the next best thing at Tante, a newer but much-lauded place started by Ashraf Abdel Baky, a famous Egyptian comedian. The restaurant attempts to recreate the cozy, friendly feeling of a middle-class Cairo home—though that’s conveyed more through the homestyle menu and convivial staff than the place itself, which has the black leather chairs and round, wooden tables you might expect in a European cafe.
“He’s using the recipes of his aunt [“Tante” means “aunt” in Arabic], and you get the taste of homemade food, a taste of how Egyptians cook, and everything is served in tagines,” says Mansour. “When I don’t have time to cook, and since my mom is older now, I go to this place, not a place where it’s stuffy. It’s convivial, it’s comfortable, and it’s very inviting.”
DessertsMandarine Koueider5 Baghdad St., El Korba, Heliopolis, Cairo Governorate 4460213
Though she was born in Cairo, Mansour’s family moved a couple hours away to the seaside city of Alexandria when she was young. Nevertheless, she always looked forward to the trips back to Cairo because they included a stop at Koueider, a pastry shop that’s an institution in the city.
“My father would make a stop over at Koueider and we would get an assortment of Koueider sweets, so, for me, Koueider means family gatherings,” she says. “Now, every time I go back, the second day I arrive, I get a tray with my favorites—baklava, basbousa. This is the mecca of Egyptian sweets.”
In fact, Mansour credits the place for inspiring her own recipe for basbousa, a dessert she describes as a "miracle" consisting of a “shiny, glazed surface and defined layers of soft semolina cake and thick, creamy ashta [clotted cream] … [w]ith some chopped pistachios on top to add crunch and a complex flavor that's in turn floral, herbal, and citrusy.”
“I created my recipe from my taste memory of Koueider,” she says.
Most of Koueider’s locations feature a storefront with a counter where you tell the staff what size box you want and then ask them to fill it with the treats on display—they’re meant to be takeout only, though some of the mall stores have tables and seats.
There are actually two Koueiders in Cairo across the street from each other—one for the pastries and the other for ice creams in traditional flavors like pistachio, mastic, and strawberry. They’re known as booza, Egyptian ”fluffy ice cream, not custard-based ice cream,” she notes, and they are absolutely worth sampling if you're in the area.
Mansour, however, still goes back to the same blue-and-white-tiled Koueider in Heliopolis, where the founder’s photograph has always hung on the wall as if he’s still watching over the place.
MarketsKhan el-KhaliliEl-Gamaleya, El Gamaliya, Cairo Governorate 4331302
No Website
Serious Eats / Bloomberg / ContributorYou can’t go to Cairo without experiencing an Egyptian souk, a heady cacophony of hawking and haggling over everything from colorful fabrics to household necessities. And then there are the spice markets, where the whole color spectrum seems to be represented in the mounds of powders and dried plants in plastic tubs arranged in tiers along the front of each seller’s stall. Most are in Old Cairo, but the most picturesque may be Khan el-Khalili, where you can shop for ornate lamps and brass platters under moody Islamic arches and soaring minarets that send out the calls for prayer.
“If you want a taste of life in Old Cairo, you have to visit the spice market, the gold market, the silver market, and the leather market in Khan el-Khalili in the oldest district in Cairo,” says Mansour. “It’s a cobblestone street, it’s rowdy, it’s loud, it’s crazy, but it’s an incredible mix of alluring senses.” There, the smell of tannins from the leather market mingles with the spice market's prickly scent of cumin and mastic and the perfume-y fragrance of anise and hibiscus, all as you munch on a steaming, savory kebab from a street cart. “It’s the heart of Cairo,” says Mansour.
Getty Images / Bloomberg / ContributorMansour says 90% of the spices in her pantry come from Cairo’s markets, but strongly recommends that you make sure that what you buy and intend to take back to your home country is vacuum-sealed. This way, you won’t have to explain to customs on your return home about any insects that infested your spices.
“If you tell the vendor you’re traveling, they will give you vacuum-sealed packets,” she says.
Street FoodThe city's street food options have changed since the Arab Spring, according to Mansour. What used to be simple, colorfully painted carts have become bigger carts or stalls that now include tables and chairs in the street where you sit down and wait for your food to be brought to you.
At these places, Mansour likes to order ful medames (stewed fava beans), ta’ameyah (Egyptian falafel), Egyptian-spiced potato chips, and Egyptian-spiced pickles (a popular spice blend in Egypt is dukkah, which is a mixture of sesame, cumin, coriander, black pepper, salt, and pounded hazelnuts). Or she might order shawarma, which has become a huge thing in Cairo street food over the last decade—the Egyptian variant is made with an onion-juice marinade and is served not in a flatbread but in a brioche roll, a nod to the country’s Greek and Italian influences, she says.
“Egyptian shawarma is amazing, and they make the bread from scratch, and usually it has a lot of tahini, not hummus, which is a Palestinian and Syrian thing,” she says.
Mansour doesn’t have a particular place she goes for shawarma and recommends visitors go out and find their own favorite. “It’s very hard to find a bad shawarma place in Cairo right now because the competition’s so fierce,” she says.
Going the Extra NileOne final word of advice: If you want to get the full Egyptian food experience, steer clear of the set-lunch tourist traps that come with the Pyramid tours. Instead, take these tips from our resident local, Nermine Mansour, to heart and learn to eat like the Cairenes really do.
Jatin Sharma for Serious EatsYou could argue that Mumbai isn’t just India’s most influential food city, but one of the world’s most influential food cities. It’s a bucket-list destination for any serious culinary traveler—but you’ll get more out of your visit if you know exactly what to look for before you go.
That’s because the City of Dreams is a sometimes confounding chaos that showcases the starkest duality of any Indian metropolis—the fabulous wealth and silvery towers of the Indian tech industry butting up against the desperate poverty of ramshackle slums; the rich, oniony scents of fried pakora stalls mingling with the barnyard smells of meandering street cows.
A vendor making Vada Pav outside Chhatrapati Shivaji TerminusJatin Sharma for Serious EatsIt’s where a $100-a-plate high-end Indian restaurant, a no-beef McDonald’s (with Maharajah Macs instead of Big Macs), and a street cart offering mangoes at pennies apiece could easily share the same corner. And after centuries of chaotic growth, Mumbai’s neighborhoods and streets have become twisty and overstuffed, clogged with incessantly honking Tata cars, gaily festooned trucks and, yes, those wandering cows.
Understandably, Mumbai can be overwhelming for many first-time visitors. So we asked cookbook author and recipe developer Chetna Makan to guide us in this series on some of the great food cities of the world. While there are a million travel guides out there, our guides are the only ones that are built upon the collective knowledge of Serious Eats' profoundly talented pool of food writers, recipe developers, and chefs.
We want to make sure you get the best out of every meal, whether it’s at home or 8,000 miles away, and so we called on Makan for her insights into Mumbai and the food and dining businesses of the city she still calls home, despite now living in the UK—places that often played important roles in helping her understand and create the recipes you’ve come to love from her right here on Serious Eats.
Born and raised in the city of Jabalpur in Madhya Pradesh before moving to Mumbai to study fashion at university, Makan knows her way around Mumbai’s streets—she’s equally at home pointing out which street stalls to go to and which to avoid as she is in the city’s poshest and trendiest eateries. As an accomplished cook and baker, she understands the culinary landscape of Mumbai better than most. Makan now lives in England, where she won the 2016 Christmas special for The Great British Bake Off and has published several cookbooks on Indian cuisine, many inspired by her mother’s cooking. She returns to Mumbai every year to see family and friends and to make sure she’s up to date on the latest in Mumbai food culture, insights she's now sharing with you.
Bombay SapphiresThere are too many gems in the Mumbai food scene to possibly cover in a single article, but there are a few key elements to remember. First of all, what we think of today as Mumbai food or Indian food is really the result of millennia of influences, from the Maharashtrian and Parsi to the Islamic, Portuguese, and British. And as the financial and entertainment capital of India, Mumbai is where the cuisines of every other region of the subcontinent end up as well, adding their unique flavors and sensibilities to the culinary melange.
“Mumbai is like New York or London, where everyone’s coming from all over the country to make a living or make their dreams come true, so it’s a coming together of lots of different cuisines,” says Makan.
A table set at Shree Thaker BhojanalalyJatin Sharma for Serious EatsMumbaikars are go-getters, and that nonstop lifestyle in a city that never sleeps means that most locals, when they eat out, get a bite to eat at street food vendors, often carts or stalls outside major transportation hubs or wherever the biggest crowds are. (And the crowds in Mumbai probably dwarf anything you’re used to.)
For special occasions, more formal meals, or when you just feel like sitting down as you chow down, there are restaurants ranging from fancy, Western-style cafes to places that are essentially street stalls with four walls, a roof, and a few tables and chairs.
“It’s just got a life of its own, crazy and mad wherever you go but at the same time calming,” she says. “There’s no stillness in Mumbai, and it’s so invigorating. I’ve never been to any other place like Mumbai.”
Street FoodVada Pav Outside Chhatrapati Shivaji TerminusChhatrapati Shivaji Terminus Area, Fort, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400001
No Website
Where on-the-go New Yorkers reach for a classic bacon, egg, and cheese, the vada pav is the iconic street food for always-on-the-move Mumbaikars. A battered and deep-fried potato dumpling in a fluffy dinner roll that’s slathered in various chutneys, this burger-like sandwich is widely acknowledged as the favorite “fast food” of this city’s dwellers.
“It’s carb on carb—what’s not to love?” says Makan. “Garlicky chutney adds to the spice and strong flavor, and the coriander flavor adds to the balance. It’s such a well-balanced meal on the go—you don’t eat it on a plate or even stand, you just eat it when you’re walking.”
Vada Pav outside Chhatrapati Shivaji TerminusJatin Sharma for Serious EatsNaturally, the place that inspired Makan to create her own vada pav recipe is where everyone’s in constant motion: the food stalls crowded into the alleys off of Mumbai’s biggest and primary rail station, Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (formerly Victoria Terminus Station). The grand Victorian Gothic Revival edifice towers over South Mumbai with its ornate turrets as everflowing crowds of citizens and tourists surge in and out at all hours of the day and night.
“Almost all the best street foods are outside these stations,” says Makan. “There are some vendors who have been there for generations, and every Mumbai person will have their different favorite vada pav stall because it used to be outside their college or outside their house or because their family’s been going to it forever.”
She urges visitors to find their own favorite vada pav vendor, following her general rules for eating out in Mumbai (see Makan's tips below). Try looking for one of the busier stalls, around which you might see a shoulder-to-shoulder ring of people in front of the strangely ordered chaos of a cart that features mountains of buns, enormous platters of potato patties awaiting the fryer, rows of bubbling pots of hot oil, and steel bowls in a spectrum of garnishes and sauces that the proprietors’ hands navigate in a blur of muscle memory.
“The whole little lane is always very packed with some of the most famous Mumbai foods; at lunchtime, it’s almost impossible to walk through—only professional Mumbai people can make it through!” she says, laughing. “You can see them making it fresh and, as soon as the batches are out, they’re gone, they’re so popular. And they’ve nailed the chutneys and will put a fried green chile between the buns, if you want. It’s the complete package.”
Bread Pakora at Mumbai Dadar Central Railway StationSenapati Bapat Road and Lakhamsi Nappu Road, Dadar, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400014
No Website
Makan grew up scarfing down her mother’s bread pakoras for breakfast after giving them a squirt of ketchup at the family table in her childhood home in Jabalpur, but when it came to developing her Serious Eats recipe for this popular treat—a turmeric-and-chile-spiced potato sandwich dipped in a batter of chickpea flour and then deep-fried—she drew upon her memories as a fashion student, where she fueled her studies with bread pakora breaks outside of Dadar station. Dadar station is the confluence of several major rail lines, so it’s another central space bustling with people spilling in and out of the station and into the local streets, which are lined with countless small restaurants and street stalls. When she goes back, she inevitably looks for the busiest bread pakora vendor and gets in line.
“They second-fry it when you order it and give it to you nice and hot—crispy [on the] outside and with the spiced-up potatoes that have such good flavor,” she says. “It’s usually served with a nice, spicy chutney and a coriander chutney.”
Pav Bhaji at Juhu Chowpatty BeachMumbai, Maharashtra 400049
No Website
Walk through the seaside neighborhood of Juhu Beach and you’ll find an enclave of upscale boutiques, Bollywood celebrity homes, seaside restaurants, and the briny smell of the Arabian Sea’s waves vying for attention amidst the enticing fragrances of huge pans full of hot ghee and freshly chopped onions. The streets along the beach itself are where the action is on weekends, when they fill with children’s amusement rides. The food stalls that line the beach really come to life, exploding with shouted orders and the sizzling sounds of cumin-filled dishes being whipped up for small crowds of hungry patrons, says Makan. Most of the old wooden stalls may have been replaced with sturdier brick and mortar stores, but the festive atmosphere still draws in people from outside Mumbai who come here to walk on the sand, have a seaside meal, and just generally have a good time. (Traditionally, Indian culture places a huge emphasis on modesty, so don’t expect to see people sunbathing in swimsuits.)
A women selling balloons at sunset on Juhu BeachGetty Images Hindustan Times / ContributorThe meal to have here, Makan says, is pav bhaji, a hearty curry that consists of potatoes, onions, peas, cauliflower, carrots, tomatoes, and peppers. It’s made quickly on enormous flat tops that bubble, steam, and sizzle the red-brown mixture as it cooks, letting you get a good whiff of the masala of cumin, coriander, cardamom, fennel, cinnamon, cloves, chiles, and more before it’s scooped onto a steel tray with a butter-fried bun.
“So you take your food and sit down at one of the benches around the stalls, or you take it down to the beach and eat with the buzz of all the people around you as you watch the water and the families walking along the beach,” says Makan.
RestaurantsShree Thaker BhojanalalyBuilding No 31, Dadiseth Agiyari Ln, Marine Lines East, Gaiwadi, Kalbadevi, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400002
Since 1945, this unassuming and narrow family-run restaurant in South Mumbai—with peacock-shaped blue-and-yellow stained glass embedded into the plain white walls and two-person tables barely big enough to accommodate a pair of large stainless-steel platters—has served excellent vegetarian Gujarati thalis. Thalis are a popular style of meal in which your platter comes with a dozen or so small steel bowls filled with portions of various dishes, making this an ideal way to try a number of foods, along with a bowl of rice or a piece of flatbread. Makan loves to squeeze into a table with friends here even when it’s totally packed, which is often.
Serious Eats / Jatin Sharma“You can find different curries in one place, a bit of yogurt, a potato dish, a dal, or some chickpea curry, a combination of pickles, a little bit of salad, and the pudding [dessert]—it keeps changing from time to time,” she says. From Makan’s perspective, it’s a must when visiting India.
Jatin Sharma for Serious EatsIf it’s on the menu when you go, she says Shree Thaker Bhojanalaly is a great place to try cauliflower sabzi, cumin-infused cauliflower florets with gently caramelized onions; or kaju khatli, a diamond-shaped cashew-flour cookie that Makan describes as “dense, milky, nutty,” and not overly sweet.
Bombay CanteenUnit-1, Process House, S.B. Road Kamala Mills, Near Radio Mirchi Office, Lower Parel,
Mumbai, Maharashtra 400013
Courtesy of The Bombay CanteenIf you’re craving a fancy meal in Mumbai, Makan suggests the award-winning Bombay Canteen, which is in Mumbai’s financial district. You’re likely to find yourself dining alongside financiers and tech pioneers as well as the city’s culinary trendsetters amid art deco glass partitions and geometric-tiled floors in a brightly lit space.
“Its look is inspired by the old Parsi cafes of Mumbai, with the beautiful, old-school wooden furniture that’s very Mumbai, but it’s very high-end,” says Makan, with dishes like khasi pork tacos with grilled sesame pork belly and naga chile salsa, or a chaat of grilled peaches, goat cheese curd, and cumin-chile Rajasthani biscuits that she calls “a modern Indian twist on traditional Indian food.”
Inspired by Delhi’s classic fruit chaat, The Bombay Canteen's Stone Fruit Chaat features juicy monsoon stone fruits — ripe peaches marinated in aamchur chutney, grilled for a smoky flavour, paired with goat cheese dahi, and a plum, peach, and tomato sauce, topped with frosted walnuts and fresh herbs. Served with a cumin-chilli mathri (a popular North Indian cracker)Courtesy of The Bombay CanteenHer favorite thing at Bombay Canteen, however, may be the jhakaas cocktail, which takes its name from the modern Mumbai slang for “awesome”—it’s made from vodka, carrot, cardamom, ginger, and pineapple.
DessertsBadshah152/156 Umrigar Building Lokmanya Tilak Marg, Opposite Crawford Market, Fort, Mumbai 400001
No Website
Crawford Market (officially Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Mandai), which Makan calls “the heart of Mumbai,” is a crowded maze of a seemingly infinite number of merchants hawking everything from kitchenwares and rolls of textiles to jewelry and electronics. As Diwali nears every autumn, the whole market is blanketed in a vibrant snowfall of paper flower decorations and marigold garlands. As you haggle over the price of a new pot, don’t be surprised if you’re literally shoulder to shoulder with a complete stranger, also haggling for something, at the adjacent stand. It’s a seemingly timeless part of Mumbai life, and though food is not the main draw, there’s plenty for hungry shoppers who need to re-energize for their next round with a shrewd shopkeep.
Food stall street in the Crawford Market Mumbai India.Getty Images / VW Pics / Contributor
“It’s the same bazaar as when I lived there 20 years ago, and there’s a lot of eating places around there,” says Makan.
One of the most famous—and the one place she makes a point of stopping by whenever she’s shopping for cloth at Crawford Market—is Badshah, specifically for the faluda, an originally Persian, fruit-laden, creamy smoothie that’s made with a scoop of ice cream and sabja (sweet basil) seeds.
“Sometimes other people add too much ice cream or not enough seeds, but never Badshah—they always get it just right,” says Makan. “I love their rose-flavored faluda, which is so famous and so good.”
Though Badshah has been around since 1905, it’s now housed in a large, modern space with lots of glass tables—but despite its expansion, it’s been so popular for so long that you should grab any empty table you see as quickly as possible.
Tips for Eating Out in MumbaiEating your way through the foods in India is a wonderful experience—but it can lead to…let’s call it gastrointestinal discomfort, or even be potentially perilous if you don’t use your common sense and take certain precautions.
Here’s what Makan herself does to eat out safely in India:
- Avoid fresh produce that’s already been cut. That includes fresh vegetables, salads, or fruit that’s been cut—even if it was done so in front of you. And that’s always true even though seemingly every other colorfully decorated street cart in Mumbai is bristling over with a veritable rainbow of delectable slices of bright orange mango, glistening shards of papaya, and cracked-open pomegranates spilling out their juice-filled rubies. And it’s also true whether you’re talking about a highway cart or the fanciest restaurant in the city—Indian tap water is notoriously suspect, and even though Mumbai has made great strides in improving its water supply in recent years, it’s probably not worth the risk.
So don’t succumb, even if it’s over 100 degrees out and you haven’t had so much as a single papadum since yesterday!
“Buy [fruit] whole,” Makan implores you. “It’s very tempting, but there’s a lot of things involved there, and you [don’t know] where they got the water to wash the fruit and their hands.”
If you do want fresh fruit in India, buy only thick-skinned fruits that haven’t been cut or peeled, then wash them thoroughly with bottled drinking water (ensuring that the cap is intact when you buy it) and peel them yourself. If you haven’t washed and peeled it yourself, don’t eat it. * Stay away from street-side stalls selling pani puri, a treat that consists of deep-fried wheat or semolina balls stuffed with any number of fillings—typically mashed potatoes, onions, and chickpeas—and then topped with tamarind chutney, chaat masala, and chili powder. The key step in eating pani puri, though, is dipping it in strongly flavored pani puri water. The problem, like with fresh cut produce, is the water, which is often contaminated. “You’re basically drinking the water,” Makan says.
The same warning goes for ice and certain frozen confections, like iced golas, essentially fruit syrup-infused shaved ice that’s molded (sometimes by hand) onto a wooden stick. “I would definitely not have the iced gola ever,” she says. * Wherever you see street food, you’ll never see just one cart but many, often selling the same foods. Eat at the stall with the biggest line. This isn’t just about the wisdom of the crowd—it’s also because the food at busy stalls has less time to sit out on a hot, humid Mumbai day. “It’s not like in places with colder climates, like England, where they can stay out longer in the sun,” says Makan. * Ready to completely reverse your Western notions of healthy and unhealthy foods? Freshly cut fruits and veggies are out—and deep-fried foods are in.
“I wouldn’t hesitate to eat anything fried and freshly made in front of me,” says Makan. You may notice that some stalls or restaurants seem to have a stack of already fried foods; these are usually safe, as the vendor typically fries them once early to cook them through, then submerges them in the fryer again to order so that they’re freshly cooked and get that explosively crispy outer layer. (Kind of like twice-fried french fries.) * And despite all these warnings, do go out and try new foods. It’d be a waste if you went all the way to Mumbai and ended up having every meal at McDonald’s, so don’t be shy about trying the local cuisine.
“Go with an open mind, experiment, and don’t go for naan and chicken curry when you’re there,” says Makan. “There’s so much more to Indian food than naan and chicken curry.”
Mumbai MouthfulsIndia is a bucket-list adventure for many Westerners, and its crown jewel, Mumbai, will likely be your primary destination as a lover of food. By following in Chetna Makan’s footsteps we’re confident you’ll go home and tell everyone that your culinary journey was “jhakaas!”
Serious Eats / Two BitesIn my pre-chef days, the word "sirloin" conjured up visions of a nicely charred, glistening slab of meat at a steakhouse. Today, I know it to be one of the most versatile, not to mention inexpensive, cuts of beef you can cook with. All you have to do is peruse the butcher's case to see the variety of sirloin cuts available—like tri-tip and flap meat (a.k.a sirloin tip)—to imagine the possibilities. Luckily for you, we've rounded up 10 sirloin steak recipes to inspire you. There's gloriously crispy and mouth-watering chicken fried steak, easy Cuban steak and onions, spicy Nigerian beef skewers, Armenian shish kebabs—even cheesesteak nachos and Korean bulgogi burritos. The best part is you don't have to splurge on an expensive cut for a taste of juicy, tender steak.
Chicken-Fried SteakSerious Eats / Jen CauseyChicken-fried steak falls into the category of "don't knock it until you've tried it" comfort foods. When done right, it's tender, moist, and gloriously crunchy. To produce the extra-light, delicately craggy crust, coat thinly pounded sirloin tip in cornstarch first, dip it in egg, then toss it in a seasoned flour and buttermilk mixture. Deep fry it until golden brown, then serve it with a generous helping of creamy gravy.
Palomilla (Cuban Steak and Onions)Serious Eats / Two BitesPalomilla, or Cuban steak and onions, is what you want to make on a weeknight when you want a flavorful meal on the table in under 30 minutes. It pairs well with classic Cuban sides like rice, beans, and plantains or even a simple side salad. Pounding your sirloin extra thin and marinating it in salt and lime tenderizes and flavor the meat, while searing the steaks in a hot skillet ensures they brown well.
Kenyan Beef Wet FrySerious Eats / Maureen CelestineAnother great easy go-to dinner is this popular Kenyan "wet fry" of tender bite-size beef coated with a thick tomato-based sauce and served with ugali (cooked cornmeal) or white rice. Starting with a more tender cut of meat like sirloin steak, then searing it in small batches, streamlines the cooking process so you can have dinner ready in just 30 minutes.
Chacarero Chileno (Chilean Steak and Green Bean Sandwiches)Serious Eats / Estudio ComoChacarero Chileno is more than the sum of its parts, but choosing the right cut of beef and cooking it well can make all the difference. Opt for sirloin tip or flap meat, pound it thin, then give it a good sear. Coating the beef in a flavored mayonnaise keeps it tender and juicy—even over high heat on a grill.
Khorovats (Armenian Shish Kebabs)Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianArmenians are serious about their grilled meats, and these shish kebabs are a mainstay at every family gathering. Marinating the meat in a mixture of grated onion, red wine, tomato paste, and salt deeply seasons the meat, while also providing a coating that quickly chars on the grill. Though most Armenians prefer the flavor of lamb, flap meat or sirloin tip is the quicker option and equally delicious.
Nigerian Beef Suya (Spiced Grilled Skewers)Serious Eats / Sho SpaethThese skewers of spiced, nutty, smoky, charred beef served with onions, tomatoes, cilantro, lettuce, and lime juice are Nigerian street food at its finest. Freezing the sirloin steak for 15-30 minutes makes it easier to slice thinly and massaging some of the Yajin Kuli spice blend into the meat seasons it, making each bite incredibly flavorful.
Phat Bai Horapha (Thai-Style Beef With Basil and Chiles)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltFor meat that's tender, beautifully browned, and packed with savory flavor, thinly-slice sirloin, marinate it in fish sauce, soy sauce, and a bit of sugar before stir-frying it in small batches.
Cheesesteak NachosSerious Eats / Morgan EisenbergWe love a good mashup, especially when it results in the kind of food you want to dive right in and devour...like these Cheesesteak Nachos, which take inspiration from Philly cheesesteak. Freezing the sirloin steak for a couple of hours allows you to slice the meat as thinly as possible, and swapping out corn tortilla chips with ones made from flour replicates the crisp chewiness of a Philly roll. For a meal that really evokes that flavors of the Philadelphia classic, be sure to top it with melted provolone, homemade cheese sauce, and hot peppers.
Korean Beef Bulgogi BurritosSerious Eats / Emily and Matt CliftonWant your Korean bulgogi on the go? Try wrapping it up in a burrito. Here, a classic marinade with Asian pear tenderizes the sirloin and infuses it with sweet, savory flavor. Roll the bulgogi inside a flour tortilla with cooked short-grain rice, shredded red cabbage, Korean pickled radish, kimchi, scallion, cilantro, and gochujang into a neat package, then tuck in—no utensils required.
Crispy Bulgogi-Filled Scallion PancakesSerious Eats / Morgan EisenbergCrispy scallion pancake stuffed with sweet, spicy bulgogi beef and melty cheese? Sign me up! In our Korean spin on the quesadilla, the twisty spirals and flaky layers of the traditional scallion pancake help trap in cheese and juices from the beef. Even better, the cheese that oozes out of the sides hits the pan as you fry them, creating crispy browned cheese bits.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyProfessional cooks hate working brunch service. I don’t blame them—I personally would not want to be churning out eggs, bacon, and pancakes for a ravenous, hungover crowd on a Saturday or Sunday morning. (As Anthony Bourdain famously wrote in his book Kitchen Confidential, “brunch is demoralizing to the serious line cook.")
Making brunch in the comfort of my home, however, is an entirely different scenario. I actually like feeding ravenous people—especially if they’re the ones I love. Still, you will not find me making eggs to order, nor will you find me flipping pancakes one by one. Instead when it's time to sit down to eat, you’ll find an already clean kitchen and a table set with a baked French toast casserole just fresh out of the oven, served alongside bowls of fresh berries, toasted nuts, and a jug of dark amber maple syrup.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyThat’s the beauty of a baked French toast casserole: You can soak the bread in the custard the night before, and in the morning, all that’s left to do is pop it in the oven. The spot-on baked French toast recipe we're sharing here comes from our Birmingham, Alabama-based test kitchen colleague Elizabeth Mervosh, who baked batches and batches of the casserole to land on a recipe for a tender, custardy casserole you can make ahead. Read on for her recipe, along with tips on how to make the very best baked French toast casserole.
The Best Bread for Baked French Toast CasseroleAs our editorial director Daniel touched on in his quick-and-easy French toast recipe, French toast tastes best not when it’s made with stale bread but rather when it's made with oven-dried bread: “There’s something about oven drying that dehydrates the bread while preserving its fresh taste. Plus, it tends to deliver the best textures: super crisp and toasty on the outside, yielding (but not mushy) within.” Here, we take a page out of his book by oven drying the bread in a 250ºF (121ºC) oven and flipping it halfway through, which guarantees that each slice crisps evenly. We recommend using brioche or challah, which are firm but tender enough to absorb the custard without disintegrating. Avoid crusty loaves, which take much longer to hydrate and soften.
Don't Shy Away From the Vanilla and SpicesVanilla extract, ground nutmeg, and cinnamon give this baked French toast casserole a subtly sweet and warm spiced note. While that blend is delicious, you can also play around with different spices and mix-ins to switch up the flavor profile. Add a touch of orange zest for brightness, or give the casserole autumnal flair by incorporating half a teaspoon of pumpkin pie spice. You could even swirl apple butter or jam into the custard if you want something more fruit-forward, or swap out the granulated sugar for light or dark brown sugar, which will bring a pleasant molasses note to the casserole.
Dunk Your Bread in the Custard—Then Let It SitMany baked French toast casserole recipes have you pour custard over slices of bread in a baking dish, but with that method, we noticed that the custard didn’t always absorb evenly into the bread. The much more consistent method? Dunking the toasted bread into the custard mixture—just as you would for regular French toast—which guarantees that every inch of the bread was soaked. After you dip the bread, you'll lay it out in the baking dish, then pour the remaining egg mixture over the sliced bread and let it sit in the fridge until well soaked, about an hour and a half. You can bake it immediately after that soak, but if you want to make it ahead, you can let it sit in the fridge for up to 12 hours before baking it.
Top With Melted Butter and Cinnamon SugarBecause the oven dries out the surface of the casserole as it bakes, we decided to offset some of that dryness by brushing the cooked casserole with melted butter. We then top the baked casserole with fragrant cinnamon sugar and broil it for several minutes, which produces a sweet and pleasantly crunchy crust that contrasts nicely with the tender, custardy casserole.
Adjust oven rack to top third and lower third position and preheat oven to 250°F (120ºC). Set a wire rack inside two 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheets. Arrange bread slices in a single layer on racks and bake until bread is dried out, about 20 minutes, flipping bread and rotating baking sheets halfway through. Let cool 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyMeanwhile, butter a 9- by 13-inch glass or ceramic baking dish. In a large bowl, whisk eggs, vanilla, salt, nutmeg (if using), 1/2 cup of the sugar, and 1 1/2 teaspoons of the cinnamon to thoroughly combine. Add milk and whisk to blend. Working with 2 or 3 toasted bread slices at a time, soak bread slices in egg mixture, flipping once, just until the bread absorbs the liquid but remains intact, 1 to 2 minutes, then arrange bread in prepared baking dish, overlapping slices. Pour any remaining egg mixture over bread slices. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until bread is saturated, at least 1 1/2 hours or up to 12 hours.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyAdjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 325°F (160ºC). Let casserole sit at room temperature while oven preheats; remove plastic wrap. Bake in preheated oven until browned and set, about 40 minutes. Remove from oven and preheat broiler. Stir together remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar and 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon in a small bowl. Using a pastry brush, evenly brush bread with melted butter, then sprinkle with cinnamon-sugar. Broil until bread is crisp and browned in spots, about 4 minutes. Serve warm with maple syrup, chopped nuts, powdered sugar, and fresh berries, if desired.
Serious Eats / Fred HardySpecial Equipment2 wire racks, 2 rimmed baking sheets, 9- by 13-inch baking dish, pastry brush
Notes1/3 cup plus 1 1/2 teaspoons light or dark brown sugar can be used in place of the granulated sugar in both the casserole and the cinnamon-sugar topping.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe casserole can be made up to 12 hours in advance.
Serious Eats / Qi AiWhenever I go back home to Puerto Rico to visit family, I always order mofongo from a tiny deli in Rio Piedras. It’s become a tradition I look forward to. Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of touristy Old San Juan, this is one of my favorite places for the fried plantain dish served on a plain white plate with a small cup of caldo (chicken broth) on the side. Huge pilóns—seasoned wooden mortar and pestles—are lined up on the stainless steel counters and used for smashing the garlic, pork cracklings, and fried plantains into the irresistible spoonable dish.
Serious Eats / Qi AiMofongo is near and dear to me and to many other fellow Puerto Ricans, and like many beloved national dishes throughout the Caribbean diaspora, there tends to be a lot of contention about who makes it the best and what to serve it with. When I’m not able to enjoy mofongo at my favorite deli in Rio Piedras, here’s my favorite way to prepare a traditional version at home.
Origins and Influences of MofongoPuerto Rican cuisine is a combination of West African, Spanish, and indigenous Taíno foods and cooking methods. Learning more about each of these influences has inherently shaped and strengthened my connection to my cultural foods, family, and homeland. When the influence of Spanish cooking methods and foods were brought to the island during colonization in the early 1500s, they were overlaid onto the indigenous Taíno cuisine, as well as the West African dishes of the enslaved populations who were already on the island.
Serious Eats / Qi AiMofongo can be considered the distant cousin of West African fufu, a similar dish of mashed starchy vegetables, often plantains. The main difference between mofongo and fufu is the cooking method of the plantains themselves: Mofongo uses fried plantain chunks while fufu uses boiled plantains. Other mashed plantain dishes similar to mofongo include the Dominican Republic’s mangú and Cuba’s fufu de plátano, which often use plantains, but can also use other starchy root vegetables like taro, yams, or cassava.
My Advice for Preparing MofongoIn restaurants, Mofongo is almost always prepared to order and individual servings come together fairly quickly. The cook smashes fried chunks of plantain with a savory chicken broth, garlic, and pork cracklings in a pilón before it’s flipped in a rounded mound onto a serving plate. It’s easy to understand why restaurants prepare individual servings to order—once mashed, mofongo is prone to drying out quickly. So when I make mofongo at home, I stick with the restaurant approach of preparing individual portions so I can control the texture of each helping. Preparing mofongo this way requires a bit of multitasking, but it ensures perfect mofongo every time. Here’s my advice for preparing moist, spoonable mofongo at home.
Start with green plantains. One of mofongo’s defining features is the use of fried green plantains as the starchy base. Plantains continue to ripen after they're harvested and their starches slowly convert into sugars, which you do not want in this recipe. Green plantains are still firm and have a high starch content, which ensures that once they're fried and mashed, the final mofongo is savory, not sweet, and the mashed mixture is pleasantly starchy, cohesive, and absorbs seasoning easily. Think of it as the difference between mashing potatoes versus mashing ripe bananas. Your mofongo should have a mashed potato–like texture, and starting with starchy under-ripe plantains will guarantee this.
Serious Eats / Qi Ai
Fry the plantains in batches for even cooking. The trick to great fried plantains for mofongo is to cook them at a steady temperature, giving the exterior plenty of time to turn crisp without giving the plantain a chance to dry out. To do this, I shallow fry them, first starting in moderately hot oil (350ºF) and cooking them just long enough that they develop a thin, golden, crisp exterior and are fork tender inside. To ensure the oil temperature doesn’t drop too drastically once the plantains are added to the hot oil, I fry them in batches—this way the oil temperature hovers around 350ºF the entire time they cook. If the oil temperature drops, just raise the heat level as needed.
Use a pilón or mortar and pestle for preparing individual servings. At home, I prefer to use a pilón, and call for using one below. Not only is using this Puerto Rican wooden mortar and pestle the traditional method, it’s easy and efficient since everything gets prepared in one vessel. There’s no need for a extra chopping of ingredients—you’re able to make the dish with just one tool. Also once it is mashed, the mofongo can just be flipped onto the serving plate to produce the dish's signature domed shape. If you don’t have a pilón, a basic mortar and pestle will work just as well. And if you don’t have either of these, don’t fret: You can use a large mixing bowl and potato masher instead.
Add extra broth when mashing if needed to ensure the best texture. As mentioned above, mofongo should have the texture of cohesive, chunky mashed potatoes—slightly smooth and tender, but with added texture from the crispy edges of the fried plantains along with the mashed pork cracklings. Since starchy plantains dry out easily and soak up a lot of moisture, it’s likely you’ll need to add some chicken broth when mashing to get the right texture. So if your mofongo gets too dry and starts to fall apart, just keep adding the warm broth, a few tablespoons at a time, to bind the mixture back together while smashing.
Serious Eats / Qi Ai
Cover the individual portions once assembled. To keep assembled portions warm while preparing each serving, I recommend covering the prepared portions with aluminum foil or plastic wrap. This will help them retain their heat and will also trap in steam, further preventing the mofongo from drying out.
Get saucy. In my opinion, this fried and smashed plantain mixture is essentially a vessel for a good saucy moment. Traditionally, mofongo is served with a choice of sauces: a simple caldo, typically a plain chicken broth; salsa criolla, a sofrito- and tomato-based stew studded with shrimp, pork, or poultry; and al ajillo, a scampi-like sauce with tons of garlic and a good olive oil simmered with a protein. When I want to go big with a little more drama out at restaurants in Puerto Rico, I’ll order al ajillo with pulpo, chunks of octopus simmered gently in the garlicky sauce. The sauces are then served on top of a mound of mofongo, stuffed on the inside for a more tidy presentation, or placed in a bowl on the side. You can also customize your own sauce for serving with mofongo.
Serious Eats / Qi Ai
There are many incredible sauce options, and I encourage you to taste them all, but personally, I prefer mofongo with a small bowl of caldo. It serves double duty here: It's mashed into the plantains for flavor and moisture, as well served as a sauce on the side. I love the fact that the simple, savory broth doesn’t overpower the plantain flavor.
Whatever sauce you choose to serve with your mofongo, once you have your first bite, you’ll find that making mofongo at home is well worth the effort. And if you've never been to my beloved small tropical island in the Caribbean, this iconic dish is sure to inspire you to visit.
In a small saucepan, bring the chicken broth, green onion, culantro or cilantro, bay leaf, 4 garlic cloves, and butter to a simmer over medium heat. Once simmering, remove from the heat, cover, and set aside to keep warm while frying the plantains.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor Frying the Plantains: In a Dutch oven or large pot (about 10-inches in diameter), heat oil over medium-high heat until oil reaches 350ºF (175℃). While oil is heating, peel the plantains by cutting off the ends and carefully cutting a slit down each side of each plantain. Remove the skin, then cut the fruit into 2-inch chunks crosswise.
When oil reaches 350ºF(175℃), add half of the plantain chunks, and fry, adjusting heat as needed to maintain oil temperature around 350ºF, until golden and fork tender, 7 to 8 minutes. The plantains will start floating once they are almost finished frying. Use a spider skimmer or large slotted spoon to transfer to a paper towel–lined large plate. Cover with aluminum foil and set aside. Return oil to 350ºF and repeat frying the remaining plantains.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor Preparing 1 Serving of Mofongo: Once plantains are fried,in a pilón or mortar and pestle, smash 2 garlic cloves with a large pinch of kosher salt and 1/4 of the pork rinds (about 3/4 cup). This will be the seasoning base for one serving. (If you don't have a pilón or mortar and pestle, see notes for how to prepare the base and the rest of the dish.)
Serious Eats / Qi AiAdd 1/4 of the fried plantain chunks (the equivalent to 1 plantain) to the smashed garlic and pork rind mixture in the pilón and mash until mixture is well combined and has the texture of chunky mashed potatoes. If the plantain mixture starts to feel dry and is not cohesive, add a couple tablespoons of the warm chicken broth as needed. Season with salt to taste.
Serious Eats / Qi AiOnce well mashed, press the mofongo into the rounded well of the pilón. Use a flexible spatula to flatten, then gently loosen the mound of mofongo along the edges. Invert the pilón onto a shallow individual serving bowl or plate. Cover with plastic wrap or aluminum foil to keep warm while preparing the remaining servings.
Serious Eats / Qi AiRepeat steps 3 through 5 for the remaining servings.
Serious Eats / Qi AiTo serve, rewarm the chicken broth over low heat, remove the solids, then ladle the seasoned broth over the mofongo or serve in a bowl on the side. Serve mofongo with additional crushed pork rinds.
Serious Eats / Qi AiSpecial EquipmentInstant read thermometer, pilón or mortar and pestle, flexible spatula. If neither pilón nor mortar and pestle is available, a mixing bowl and potato masher are suitable substitutes. If using a mixing bowl and potato masher please see the notes below regarding the garlic and pork rind mixture.
NotesThe chicken broth is seasoned with culantro, a more flavorful cousin of cilantro. It’s also known as recao or sawtooth herb and can be found in many international markets. If you aren’t able to find culantro, cilantro is the best substitute.
Don’t have a pilón or mortar and pestle? No worries. Put those knife skills to work to mince your garlic as much as you can or grate it on a microplane for ease. And keep things mess-free by smashing the pork cracklings in a plastic freezer bag with a large spoon or rolling pin. Then mash mixture in a mixing bowl with a potato masher.
For a meat-free version, simply omit the pork cracklings and substitute vegetable broth for the chicken broth. To make it vegan, use a plant-based butter in place of the regular butter.
Make-Ahead and StorageThis dish is best made fresh to order and doesn't reheat well.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThanksgiving is around the corner, and if cornbread is a staple at your celebration—like it is at mine—you might be planning to make it from scratch. We have many great cornbread recipes if you want to go with the homemade approach, but if you’re already overwhelmed with the prospect of having to prep and cook an entire Thanksgiving feast, all while entertaining family members or friends, it may be time to consider going the simpler route: boxed cornbread mix. Homemade cornbread is nice, but do you know what’s nicer? Making Thanksgiving as stress-free as possible.
With many solid cornbread mixes to choose from online and at grocery stores, there’s no reason to lose sleep over this particular T-Day decision. With that in mind, we pulled together 11 different cornbread mixes you’re likely to find in your local supermarket, baked them up as muffins, and had our tasters sample them without knowing which brands they were trying. After tasting our way through the 11 cornbread mixes, we found not one but two overall winners we’d be happy to serve at our own Thanksgiving tables, as well as a couple of other worthy contenders. Read on for all the details.
The CriteriaTalk to our editors, and you’ll find that they all have very strong opinions about what makes good cornbread. Some, like our commerce editor Grace, like it on the sweeter side with plenty of butter and a drizzle of honey, while our commerce writer An enjoys a hefty dose of jalapeños in hers. Others, like our associate editorial director Megan, prefer it Southern-style with no sugar, perfect for serving with savory sides such as collard greens and black-eyed peas. Like Grace, our senior social media editor Kelli enjoys a touch of sweetness, and she’s also open to the inclusion of whole corn kernels.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThough all our cornbread preferences differ greatly, we all agree that good cornbread should be tender and moist, with the pleasant earthy aroma of dried corn. It should be well seasoned with salt, but it should not be overly salty, nor should it be so sweet that it passes for cake. (As our editorial director Daniel noted in his Southern-style cornbread recipe, “cornbread needn’t be overtly sweet, but it does need just enough sweetness to avoid tasting like the fabric of the universe has been torn asunder and you’re hopelessly trying to lick the rift.” Point taken!)
Cornbread should also have a lovely golden color, and be neither exceedingly pale nor fluorescent yellow. Though cornbread made from a box doesn’t have to taste homemade, it should be good enough that you’d happily make it when you want a minimal-effort option or when you are simply too tired to make it from scratch.
Overall Winner (Tie): Flesichmann’s Simply Homemade Cornbread Baking MixFleischmannAlmost every single taster loved this cornbread mix, and this was Daniel’s favorite of the bunch. “This one seems like the sweet spot texture- and flavor-wise,” he wrote. Megan described this as “corny and sweet,” and though it was sweeter than she liked, she thought it was well-balanced, tender, and “a decent muffin.” Similarly, our associate visuals director Amanda thought this cornbread had “a good balance of crunch and moistness,” and noted that it was the only sample she wanted to go back and eat more of. With yellow cornmeal as its first ingredient, this mix has a robust flavor and aroma that evokes that of homemade cornbread made with a good quality cornmeal.
Overall Winner (Tie): Jiffy Corn Muffin MixJiffyIn our tests, Jiffy tied with Fleischmann’s for the top spot. Almost every single taster noted that this mix was not too sweet, and everyone thought it was balanced, had just the right amount of corn flavor, and was nicely tender. Kelli described it as “plain and straightforward, and just how cornbread should be," and added: "Is this one Jiffy? I think it is.” Jiffy was one of the best cornbread mixes we tried, and at 10 cents per ounce, it is also the most affordable mix we sampled. One thing to note: Jiffy is the only mix that contains lard—and the only non-vegetarian product we sampled. So if you avoid pork products, this one's not for you.
Runners Up: Our Favorite Cornbread MixesAnother Great Cornbread: Martha White Sweet Yellow Cornbread MixMartha WhiteWith the exception of Amanda, every taster gave this mix glowing reviews. Daniel thought it had a classic flavor, and gave it full marks for taste. Likewise, Kelli noted that this mix “tastes how cornbread is supposed to taste.” Megan felt that it had “real corn flavor” and liked that it wasn’t too sweet—in fact, she liked it enough to say that this mix had her “favorite flavor of the bunch,” which resulted in her being her top choice overall, despite not being her top in terms of texture. Indeed, though it scored well on the flavor front, many tasters thought this cornbread was slightly dry and would benefit from a generous dollop of butter.
The Best Cornbread Mix for Those Who Have a Sweet Tooth: Krusteaz Honey Cornbread & Muffin MixKrusteaz“Good corn flavor, though a slightly off, almost artificial sweetener aftertaste,” Megan noted. For what it's worth, there's no artificial sweetener here—just sugar and a touch of honey powder. Kelli thought this cornbread had slightly too much sugar, but if you like your cornbread on the sweeter side, then this may be the mix for you. Looking at the ingredient list, it’s no surprise, as this mix contains more sugar than cornmeal. Texturally, this mix also had tiny nibs of cornmeal, which provided a pleasant crunch that both Amanda and Daniel enjoyed.
The Contenders* Bob’s Red Mill Golden Cornbread Mix ($3.69 for 13 ounces) * Jiffy Corn Muffin Mix ($0.89 for 8.5 ounces) * Kentucky Kernel Old Fashioned Cornbread Mix ($3.72 for 10 ounces) * Famous Dave’s Corn Bread Mix, Original Recipe ($3.39 for 15 ounces) * Martha White Sweet Yellow Cornbread Mix ($1.46 for 7 ounces) * Betty Crocker Cornbread & Muffin Mix ($1.01 for 6.5 ounces) * Old El Paso Southwest Style Cornbread Baking Mix ($4.42 for 13.5 ounces) * Fleischmann’s Simply Homemade Baking Mix Cornbread ($3.99 for 15 ounces) * Krusteaz Honey Cornbread & Muffin Mix ($3.99 for 15 ounces) * Trader Joe’s Cornbread Mix ($2.99 for 15 ounces) * 365 by Whole Foods Cornbread & Muffin Mix ($3.79 for 15 ounces)
Editor's note: These are prices at the time of publication; prices are subject to change.
In ConclusionEvery single cornbread mix we sampled was incredibly easy to whip up, requiring little more than whisking the mix with an egg or two, some oil or butter, and milk or water. Fleischmann’s Simply Homemade Baking Mix Cornbread, which tied with Jiffy for our top spot, has three important differences from most of the other mixes we tried that likely contribute to its better, more robust flavor. First, cornmeal is its first ingredient, rather than wheat flour, which leads the list for many mixes. Secondly, that cornmeal is yellow rather than white, and yellow cornmeal tends to have a more pronounced nutty, corny flavor than white. And finally, the cornmeal in Fleischmann's has not been degermed.
When corn is milled into flour, the kernels are crushed and the germ and endosperm are often removed to make refined corn flour. The germ, however, contains many fibers, oils, and amino acids that can contribute to corn’s rich flavor and aroma. If, like us, you prefer a pronounced nutty, corny flavor in your cornbread, we recommend purchasing a cornbread mix like Fleischmann's that contains yellow cornmeal that hasn’t been degermed.
Our Testing MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted with brands completely hidden and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample one first, while taster B will taste sample six first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill our tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation of actual results possible.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazePan-roasted chicken with a simple pan sauce—like this one with plenty of lemon and butter—is a wonderful weeknight dish. It's delicious, requires just a handful of ingredients, and takes less than an hour from start to finish. Add a great roasted vegetable or simple salad on the side, and you've got one of my all-time favorite dinners that’s easy to prepare but impressive enough for company.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeOf course, as with any simple food, the success of this skillet lemon chicken hinges on the execution. In developing this recipe, we wanted glistening, juicy chicken with crispy, brown skin and a rich, lemony pan sauce that clings to every bite. To guarantee these great results, our Birmingham, Alabama-based test kitchen colleague Julia Levy roasted batch after batch of chicken before landing on this foolproof one-skillet lemon chicken recipe below.
Key Techniques for the Ultimate One-Skillet Lemon ChickenJulia didn’t stray far from a basic pan-sauce method here—the chicken is seared on the stovetop to crisp up the skin and then roasted in the oven; when the chicken is cooked through and golden brown, you'll remove it from the oven and let it rest while you build a simple sauce right in the same pan. But to guarantee juicy chicken with a silky, deeply lemony sauce, she incorporated a few key techniques.
Use skin-on chicken breasts and monitor their temperature closely. With their lean meat, chicken breasts are notoriously easy to overcook. To keep the meat from drying out, we call for skin-on chicken breasts because the skin helps insulate the meat—and because crispy chicken skin is delicious. You'll start them skin side down in a hot skillet and finish them in the oven, pulling them when an instant read thermometer reaches 155℉. As the chicken sits, carry-over cooking will cause the internal temperature to rise by about 10℉ to 165℉, the USDA's recommended safe temperature for chicken breasts. By the time you slice into it, the chicken will be juicy and perfectly cooked.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeUse a combination of roasted and fresh lemon when making the sauce. Chicken with lemon sauce is a classic pairing, but often the sauce lacks enough lemon flavor. To avoid a bland sauce, Julia found that a combination of fresh lemon juice and roasted lemon juice creates a complex and bright citrus-forward sauce. Searing two lemon halves and roasting them alongside the chicken transforms the lemon’s flavor from tart and acidic to caramelized and sweet. The combination of the roasted sweet lemon juice with fresh acidic lemon juice adds incredible complex flavor to the final sauce.
Enhance the pan sauce with miso paste and a medley of aromatics. To further guarantee a deeply flavored pan sauce, aromatics like garlic and thyme are added to the remaining fond in the skillet after the chicken is roasted. Julia's secret ingredient for ensuring a savory and creamy sauce is white miso paste. Just one tablespoon packs a ton of umami flavor that balances the tart lemon flavor. We also love adding a hint of heat to the sauce with either a dried arbol chile or pinch of red chile flakes. While the recipe works well without both these ingredients, they add deep flavor and both are long lasting ingredients that are well worth having on hand.
Finish the sauce with butter to make it super silky. Just as important as building the sauce’s flavor is creating a velvety emulsion. Once the chicken stock is added and reduced by half to intensify its flavor, a few pats of butter are added as a finishing touch. The combination of stirring the sauce, swirling the pan, and vigorous bubbling will emulsify the butter into the sauce, breaking it up into tiny droplets that are then distributed and suspended evenly throughout the liquid, forming the emulsion.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeAdjust as needed for a perfectly emulsified sauce. A properly emulsified sauce will look creamy, thickened, and opaque, and in order for that to happen, it needs to contain enough water. If the pan sauce looks thin and greasy, it's broken—too much water has evaporated from the sauce, and it has over-reduced. To fix this, add just a few tablespoons of water to the sauce and continue swirling and stirring until it comes together, then immediately remove it from the heat. You can also read our overview of how to make a pan sauce for more detail on fixing the sauce.
The final silky, bright, lemony sauce is the perfect foil to the crispy chicken skin. It's no wonder that chicken with lemon sauce is a classic pairing.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 400°F ( 205℃). Zest lemons to yield 4 teaspoons zest. Juice 1 zested lemon to yield 2 tablespoons of juice (save any remaining lemon juice for another use); set aside. Halve remaining lemon crosswise and set aside. Place zest in a small bowl and add 3 tablespoons oil, black pepper, and 1 tablespoon thyme leaves; stir until well-combined.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazePat chicken dry with paper towels, then gently loosen chicken skin on top of each breast without tearing. Rub lemon zest–oil mixture under skin and all over each chicken breast. Season chicken generously with salt and pepper.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeIn a 12-inch stainless steel or enameled cast-iron skillet, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil and add lemon halves, cut sides down, over medium heat and cook, undisturbed, until edges begin to brown, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer lemon halves to a plate and set aside. Heat remaining oil in skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking and carefully lay chicken breasts skin side down to skillet. Cook without moving until skin is golden brown and crisp, 6 to 7 minutes. Carefully flip chicken breasts skin side up, and nestle reserved seared lemon halves to skillet alongside the chicken, cut side down.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeTransfer skillet to oven and roast until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the chicken registers 155°F (68℃), 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer chicken breasts to a cutting board and let rest while preparing the pan sauce. Do not wipe out pan.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeUsing tongs or a kitchen towel to handle, carefully juice the caramelized lemon halves (they will be very hot from the oven still) into a small bowl to yield 2 tablespoons juice. Whisk in fresh lemon juice and miso until smooth. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeTaking care if handle is still hot, return skillet with any remaining fat and browned bits to stovetop over medium-high heat and add garlic, chile, if using, and 2 thyme sprigs. Cook, stirring constantly, until garlic is softened and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add chicken broth and bring to a boil over medium-high; cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Stir in reserved lemon-miso mixture. Whisk in butter a few pieces at a time and cook at a boil until just emulsified, about 30 seconds. Remove from heat and set aside. Remove chile, if using.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeIf desired, slice chicken on a sharp bias and transfer to individual serving plates. Serve sauce with chicken.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeSpecial Equipment12-inch stainless steel or enameled cast-iron skillet
NotesTo debone chicken breasts, slide your knife between the breastbone and the tenderloin, making sure to slice as close to the bone as possible. Work your knife as deeply along the bone as you can, pulling up on the meat with your other hand.
If you don't have white miso paste, you can use any other type of miso paste. Though the sauce will be slightly less flavorful and have a bit less body, the miso paste can also be omitted. Note that you may need to season to taste with additional salt if you omit the miso.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe raw chicken can be rubbed with the lemon-zest oil mixture and seasoned with salt and pepper and refrigerated uncovered up to 24 hours ahead of cooking.
This chicken and sauce is best enjoyed right away, but the chicken and sauce can be refrigerated separately in airtight containers for up to 2 days. Reheat the chicken in a 350℉ (175℃) oven until just warmed through. Gently reheat sauce in a saucepan over low heat on the stovetop, whisking constantly.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinOne look at my embarrassingly large collection of coffee makers and it’s evident I’m a coffee nerd. I’m talking multiple French presses, numerous pour-over drippers, an Aeropress, and even a siphon machine. But most days, when my husband and I are just making a cup or two for ourselves, we reach for a pour-over.
We use classic, third-wave coffee shop favorites like the Hario V60 and Kalita Wave frequently. But lately, I’ve been loving the Origami Dripper. It’s simple, beautiful, and deceptively versatile. And I’m not the only person who likes it. Du Jianing won the 2019 World Brewers Cup using the Origami Dripper, becoming the first competitor from China to earn the title.
Why It’s GreatAbout the Origami DripperSerious Eats / Irvin LinThe unique shape of the Origami dripper is what makes it stand out. Taking its name from the Japanese art of paper folding, the striking cone-shaped dripper has 20 creased edges that funnel down into a hole that’s slightly larger than the Hario V60’s. For comparison, the Hario’s hole is roughly the size of a dime, while the Origami’s is slightly larger than a nickel. The Origami comes in a variety of colors and is available in both ceramic and resin. It’s important to note the device itself doesn’t have a stand, so you do need to purchase a collar to hold it. Origami makes a wooden one that’s pretty, but I find the resin collar with scalloped edges in the center stabilizes the dripper better.
You Can Use Different Filters, Making It VersatileSerious Eats / Irvin LinBecause of the shape and the creases in the Origami dripper, you can use either a cone or flat-bottomed filter with it. With the latter, it’s oddly satisfying to watch it conform to all of the dripper’s creases.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinThis filter variability makes it a great dripper for those looking to tinker with variables like grind size, water temperature, and filter style to get their optimum cup. With the Origami dripper, you can get different brews from the same coffee beans by just swapping out the filters (more on this below). Start playing with grind size and water temperature, and you can dial things in further.
No Matter the Filter, the Origami Makes Great CoffeeSerious Eats / Irvin LinBecause flat-bottomed filters fit so snuggly into the Origami, coffee will brew more slowly than other flat-bottomed pour-overs like the Kalita Wave. The resulting cup from the Origami may not be as sharp, but it will have a fuller body since water sits in the grounds longer, slowly filtering downward. To account for this, you can always grind the coffee slightly coarser than you would for another pour-over. Or just enjoy the fuller-bodied coffee as-is.
If using a cone-shaped filter, the reverse is true. The Origami has a wider hole at the bottom and a cone filter sits on top of the dripper’s creases, increasing airflow. This makes for a faster brew time. The resulting cup sparkles with clarity and has brighter acidity. If you prefer something less sharp and richer, just grind the beans more finely.
FAQWhat are the different sizes the Origami dripper comes in?The Origami dripper comes in two different sizes: a small dripper that brews one to two cups of coffee, and a medium size that makes one to four cups of coffee. Both of them are available in a variety of colors. Neither come with a collar, which you can purchase separately in a wooden or resin version, or as part of a package bundle.
Why We’re the Experts Irvin Lin is a former barista and coffee-obsessed drinker who owns over 25 brewing devices. He’s a cookbook author, recipe developer, food writer, photographer, and ceramicist. * He wrote the cookbook Marbled, Swirled, and Layered, which was picked by the New York Times* as one of the best baking cookbooks of 2016. * He runs a blog called Eat the Love, where he’s developed, photographed, and written recipes since 2010. Eat the Love was nominated twice for best food blog by the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) in 2016 and 2022. * He’s product tested and reviewed hundreds of kitchen items including stand mixers and saucepans.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosIn many bustling cities, the most cherished breakfast items are those that can be wrapped in paper or plastic and eaten on the go. In Taipei, where I live, we have our pick of the crop. There are hot steamed buns filled with pork and chives, hamburgers with thin pork patties slicked with sweet ketchup, and scallion pancakes folded over eggs. For the past few years, my favorite portable breakfast has been the fan tuan, a portable burrito-shaped rice roll with roots in eastern China. They’re also practical: quick, filling, and nutritionally balanced.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosTranslated into English, the Chinese words “fan tuan” mean “rice parcel.” It is a compact package of carbs, protein, and fiber that made its way to Taiwan via Chinese refugees during the mid-20th century, when China was at the cusp of its civil war. Originally an obscure breakfast item enjoyed mainly by the refugees who introduced it, fan tuan has since become an everyday staple in Taiwan. I like it because, unlike many other Taiwanese street foods, it’s not greasy and doesn’t easily fall apart, so you can’t accidentally stain your clothes on the way to work.
Part of fan tuan’s appeal is that it is highly customizable. You can pick what goes into it and around it, much like selecting an avatar in a video game. The most classic iteration features white sticky rice wrapped around pork floss, a deep-fried cruller, pickled radish, and mustard greens. While that is the default combination, it is not always the most popular. These days, most people seem to prefer purple rice instead of the classic white sticky rice for its chewy texture and nuttiness.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosI used to live next to a beloved—though now defunct—fan tuan stall, and was constantly impressed by the dexterity of the two-person team who manned it. With a flimsy awning above them and just a stainless steel countertop arranged in an L-shape, the pair took orders, doled out change, and packed thousands of fan tuan permutations daily, rain or shine.
After many weeks of tweaking my order–with or without pork floss, with white rice or purple rice—I eventually settled on this technicolor vegetarian rendition. For me, it's the perfect harmony of textures and flavors, balancing just the right chewiness of the rice with a burst of flavor from the filling. It also happens to be stunning when it’s cut into.
For the Best Fan Tuan, Go With Sticky RiceSticky (or glutinous) rice is at the heart of the fan tuan experience. It is what binds the dish together. Unlike non-glutinous varieties, sticky rice has high amounts of amylopectin, a carbohydrate that makes the rice tacky when cooked. The higher the levels of amylopectin the rice, the stickier it is. There are two main types of sticky rice: long-grain and short-grain. Short-grain sticky rice’s amylopectin content is over 90%, while long-grain only contains up to 20%. As a rule of thumb, in Taiwanese cuisine, long-grain sticky rice is used for savory dishes, and short-grain sticky rice is reserved for desserts.
Because fan tuan is savory, it’s made with long-grain white sticky rice. The grains are sticky enough to keep everything together, and the kernels stay intact when pressed together or manipulated.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosFan tuan made with purple rice is a twist that only became popular within the last decade. Wellness influencers often tout it as a healthier option because of its high fiber content and richness in anthocyanins, water-soluble antioxidants that give foods such as berries, grapes, and beets their vibrant red, purple, and blue colors. It also has a distinct chew that’s reminiscent of a bowl of al dente steel-cut oats.
My recipe below calls for a mix of long-grain sticky rice and purple rice, which strikes a fun balance of chewy, sticky, and soft textures. When the two types of rice are soaked in water together, the purple leaches into the white rice, creating a gorgeous lavender ombre effect.
How to Cook Sticky Rice So It's Perfectly Glutinous—Not MushyCooking sticky rice is slightly trickier than non-glutinous varieties, and cooking it with water directly in the pot might make it too wet and tacky. The hot tip here is to soak the sticky rice for at least four hours, drain it, then steam the hydrated rice without any extra water in the pot. This cooks and softens the rice from within without turning it into a mushy mess and produces grains that are sticky enough to bind together but not so sticky that the rice clings to your fingers when touched.
How to Fill and Assemble Fan TuanThere are no rules about what you can and cannot fill your fan tuan with. Because the rice is so malleable, you can pack in more than you’d think. As a starting point, I always add half a youtiao (deep-fried cruller) for crunch. You can make them at home or, if you live near a Taiwanese or Chinese bakery or breakfast shop, you can buy them. Unless the cruller is hot out of the fryer, I recommend quickly toasting it in the oven to crisp it up, otherwise it may become spongy and tough when wrapped with the other fillings. Bean curd adds meatiness, egg strips give it heft, and the pickled mustard greens provide a tart, punchy flavor. Though pork floss is traditional, I prefer my fan tuan without it, as it makes each bite drier than I’d like.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosAlthough there are no rules about what you put in your fan tuan, a good rice-to-filling ratio can make or break the rice roll. Too much rice, and it becomes dense and clunky. But if there's too little, the entire roll loses its structure and falls apart. The trick to figuring out the ideal amount of rice to use is to place a layer of plastic wrap on top of a clean kitchen towel, then use a wet spoon—which prevents the sticky rice from clumping up—to spread a ¼-inch layer of rice onto the cling film. To shape it, lift up the towel and plastic wrap to roll the rice over the filling, then use your hands to gently squeeze and shape the rice into an oblong roll.
The plastic wrap on a towel is a trick I learned from watching fan tuan vendors throughout Taipei: The plastic wrap creates a nonstick surface, while the towel provides a stable surface that helps evenly distribute pressure as you shape the rice ball. By pressing the rice onto the plastic wrap—using the towel as support—you can ensure the rice layer is thin and not overly thick.
Eat It WarmWhen sticky rice is cooked, the amylopectin molecules gelatinize and swell, making the rice clump together and appear sticky. As the rice cools, a process called starch retrogradation occurs, and the gelatinized starch molecules begin to harden. It’s the same process that makes bread stale. Within an hour or two, the fan tuan turns from wonderfully moist to disappointingly dry.
To avoid this unfortunate situation, it’s essential to make and eat your fan tuan immediately. Given the number of steps required, that might seem intimidating, but once the toppings are prepped and the rice is cooked, the entire dish can be assembled in minutes. Wrap it up, and that’s breakfast to go. Just don’t wait more than an hour or so to dig in—but I suspect that won’t be a problem at all.
Place long-grain glutinous rice and purple rice in a large bowl and cover by 2 inches of cool water. Using your hands, vigorously swish rice until water turns cloudy, about 30 seconds. Using a fine-mesh strainer, drain rice, discarding the cloudy soaking water. Refill bowl with cool water and repeat rinsing and draining process until water runs clear.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosReturn washed rice to large bowl and cover with room temperature water. Soak rice, uncovered, for at least 4 hours and up to 12 hours in the refrigerator.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosUsing a fine-mesh strainer, drain rice. Line a bamboo steamer with wet cheesecloth. Transfer rice to cheesecloth-lined bamboo steamer and spread in an even layer. Using your finger, poke evenly spaced holes into the rice mound; this will help the rice cook uniformly. Fold the flaps of the cheesecloth over the rice, and cover. (Cheesecloth doesn’t have to fully cover rice; the folding ensures the flaps don’t sit in the water. See notes for instructions on preparing the rice if you don’t have a bamboo steamer.)
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosFill a large wok with 2 inches (5 cm) water, and bring to a rolling boil over high heat. Cover bamboo steamer basket and lower it into the wok. Steam until rice is al dente and shiny, about 30 minutes, replenishing the bottom of the wok with boiling water if needed.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosAdjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350ºF (180ºC).
Rinse the pickled mustard greens under cold running water. Squeeze out excess water, and pat dry with paper towels. Mince and set aside for later.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosCut the crullers in half lengthwise and toast in the oven on a 9- by 13- inch rimmed baking sheetuntil dark golden brown, 5 to 8 minutes. (They should be very crispy but not burnt.)
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosIn a medium nonstick pan, heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil over low until just shimmering. Add the minced pickled mustard greens, diced bean curd, and sugar and cook, stirring constantly, until sugar has dissolved and the greens are withered and dried out, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside for later.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosIn a small bowl, whisk eggs, salt, and 1 tablespoon water until smooth. Using a fine-mesh sieve, strain mixture into a clean bowl.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosIn a medium nonstick skillet, add remaining 1/2 teaspoon oil over medium-low heat until just shimmering. When the pan is hot, pour in egg mixture and tilt pan so the egg forms a thin and even film. Immediately cover the pan with a lid and cook until eggs are set, about 1 minute. Turn off heat, and wait until egg completely solidifies, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Remove lid and, when egg is cool enough to handle, use your fingers or chopsticks gently peel it off the frying pan and place it on a cutting board. Roll egg up tightly, and cut it crosswise into 1/4 inch- (6 mm–) thick strips.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosTo Assemble: Fold a clean kitchen towel so it forms a rectangle roughly 7 inches by 6 inches (18 cm by 15 cm). Arrange towel on kitchen counter with the long sides parallel to the counter edge. Cover towel completely with plastic wrap.
Dip a spoon in water and use it to spread about 1/4 (about 6 ounces; 170g) of the cooked rice evenly across plastic wrap, leaving a 1/2-inch border on all sides. The long side of the rectangle should still be facing you.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosSprinkle a line of the egg strips down the length of the rice rectangle, add the diced bean curd and mustard greens on top, and then finally a chunk of the fried cruller lined up vertically on top of everything.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLift up towel and plastic wrap to roll rice over the filling, using your hands to gently squeeze and shape the sticky rice into an oblong rice roll.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosRepeat for remaining rice rolls. Take it to go, or unwrap the plastic and enjoy immediately.
Serious Eats / Deli StudiosSpecial EquipmentFine-mesh strainer, bamboo steamer, cheesecloth, wok, pastry brush, 10-inch nonstick pan and lid, chopsticks, kitchen towel, plastic wrap
NotesIf you don’t have a bamboo steamer, you can steam the rice in a large pot: Line a colander or fine-mesh sieve with cheesecloth. Transfer rice to cheesecloth-lined colander or fine-mesh sieve and arrange rice as evenly as possible. Using your finger, poke evenly spaced holes into the rice round; this will help the rice cook uniformly. Fold the flaps of the cheesecloth over the rice, and cover.
Fill a large pot with 2 inches (5 cm) water, and bring to a rolling boil over high heat. Lower colander or fine-mesh sieve into the pot and cover. Steam until rice is al dente and shiny, about 30 minutes, replenishing the bottom of the wok with boiling water if needed. Proceed with step 5 of the recipe.
Serious Eats / Octavio PeñaWhen I first moved into my apartment, my oven was churning out pale chicken skin, limp broccolini, and underbaked cookies. It wasn’t until I invested in a probe thermometer that I realized my oven’s display was off and that preheating took twice as long as it claimed. I also often cook for family and friends in their homes, so whenever I pack my cooking bag for a dinner party, I tuck my ThermoWorks Square DOT into my apron’s pocket. This tiny thermometer has made an outsized impact on my life.
Why The ThermoWorks Square DOT Is GreatThe ThermoWorks Square DOT is like a hybrid between the ThermoWorks Chef Alarm and the ThermoWorks DOT, both winners in our leave-in probe thermometer testing. Like its siblings, it reliably monitors temperatures and has a simple, backlit display for easy reading.
What sets the Square DOT apart is that it has two temperature-tracking channels, versus the standard DOT’s single channel. I’m a big multitasker in the kitchen, so I love having two channels to, say, monitor oil for deep frying while also tracking the preheating oven for roasting. I also use it every time I smoke meat with my dad—one probe keeps an eye on the smoker’s ambient temperature while the other monitors the internal temp of the brisket. The alarm is also loud enough that we can hear it from inside, which has saved us a few times when we added a bit too much wood to the smoker. The “average” mode is a nice touch, too, since it measures the average temperature over fifteen minutes instead of beeping anytime the temperature fluctuates. And it’s magnetic so I can stick it onto the grill or refrigerator door.
Serious Eats / Octavio PeñaThe SquareDOT comes with a penetration probe and an air probe, but ThermoWorks has a large selection of probes available to customize your experience. This includes ambient probes to track low temps in refrigerators or freezers; waterproof probes for simmering pots or sous vide baths; and extension cables for versatility across different kitchen layouts. I like to keep two penetration probes handy for monitoring two roasts simultaneously. The cables themselves are high-quality and can withstand being pinched between the door of an oven or the lid of a grill.
Anyone who wants a little more control in the kitchen (whether it's to see how a roast chicken is coming along or to keep an eye on a sizzling steak) should own this thermometer. It’s like having a little sous chef trained solely in the art of temperature management.
FAQsHow do you use a ThermoWorks Square DOT?Turn on the device by pressing the power button on the back. To set an alarm, press the left or right arrow buttons to select a desired temperature. Holding an arrow button in a single direction lets you speed through the temperature range. Once the desired temperature is reached and the alarm beeps, tap any arrow on the device to dismiss the alarm. Pressing the left and right arrow buttons in a single row disables the alarm function. To turn off the device, hold the power button on the back until the display turns off.
Which probes are included with the ThermoWorks Square DOT?The device comes with a 4.5-inch straight penetration probe and an air probe with a grate clip. The cables are both 47 inches long and can handle up to 700˚F (370°C).
How do I monitor my oven temp?To monitor your oven’s temperature, connect a probe to the channel two socket and hold the “AVG” button until the “A” icon appears above the temperature. This sets the channel to average mode which automatically calculates the 15-minute average temperature.
Why We’re the Experts* Octavio Peña is a freelance recipe developer for Serious Eats, Food & Wine, and The Kitchn. * He’s been using the ThermoWorks Square DOT for two years.
Serious EatsNow that Halloween is over and Mariah Carey has defrosted, the holiday season is officially upon us. The next two months are about to go zoom zoom zoom, but slowing down to enjoy seasonal recipes throughout November is the perfect way to savor the end of fall.
This Thanksgiving season, we’re eyeing comforting recipes that feature seasonal ingredients like mushrooms, squash, pumpkin (of course), and more. Many of the recipes shared below are the result of our editors’ meticulous Thanksgiving planning, but you can also find plenty of cozy weeknight recipes that come together quickly. From a lasagna and eggplant mash-up to an at-home PSL, see what our editors are most excited to cook this November.
Pumpkin Spice Latte (With Real Squash)Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez"It is time." —Daniel Gritzer, editorial director
Beef RendangSerious Eats / Qi Ai"I've made this once already and can't wait to make it again! Though you have to stir vigorously towards the end of cooking, the oven does most of the hard work for you here. Beef slowly bubbling away in coconut milk and a fragrant spice paste of lemongrass, makrut lime leaves, and galangal... it's just one of the best things I've made in a long time." —Genevieve Yam, culinary editor
Mushroom Pot PieSerious Eats / Victor Protasio"I was lucky enough visit our Birmingham, Alabama test kitchens when our colleague, Renu Dhar, was developing this deeply flavorful mushroom pot pie, so I got to taste it several times as she perfected it. And when I say 'perfect,' I mean it. It's the perfect vegetarian main course for Thanksgiving or just a special dinner." —Megan Steintrager, associate editorial director
Lasagna alla NormaSerious Eats / Amanda Suarez"Every year for Thanksgiving, my family's holiday tradition is to make fresh pasta. Yes, the traditional turkey is always on the table, usually tucked away in the back corner while we all ohh and ahh over the pasta. In year's past it's been ravioli, papardelle, mezza luna, and even agnolotti. Within minutes of Daniel's lasagna alla norma recipe going live on the SE homepage, my mom emailed me saying 'We're making this as our pasta for Thanksgiving.' We'll take the time to roll out the sheets of fresh lasagna noodles, use up my mom's freezer stash of her summer garden tomato sauce, fry the eggplant, and assemble it the day before, ensuring less chaos in the kitchen on actual T-day. I'm sure it will outshine our turkey." —Leah Colins, senior culinary editor
"A vegetarian lasagna that really hits the spot is possible! It's called lasagna all Norma. I was lucky enough to be in the studio when Amanda and Daniel were shooting this recipe, so I can confirm that this recipe hits hard. While I love, and occasionally make, pasta all Norma, layering the components between sheets of fresh pasta and baking until melty takes it to another level." —Kelli Solomon, senior social media editor
Pressure Cooker Lentils and SausageSerious Eats / Qi Ai"I’ve been really into lentils lately (yes, for real), so I’ve got this easy, cozy recipe bookmarked for a weeknight dinner. It's got apple, cumin, and thyme to bring warm, autumnal aromatics to the legumes, and I have some British-style bangers in my freezer that'll pair swimmingly. Forget 'Live, laugh, love'—my kitschy slogan is 'Live, laugh, love, lentils.'" —Grace Kelly, commerce editor
Caesar Roasted BroccoliSerious Eats / Amanda Suarez"I'm a Caesar salad girl and could easily eat one multiple times a week. I have this roasted broccoli on my list to make ASAP, as it's just another way to get more of my favorite flavors in my life. The lemony, garlicky, anchovy-y breadcrumbs sold me immediately." —Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, associate editorial director, commerce
Trout AlmondineSerious Eats / Amanda Suarez"Leah's trout almondine takes just 10 minutes to whip up and makes me feel like I'm sitting in a fancy little French bistro. It's great for chaotic weeknights, date night in, or even as a dinner party main!" —Genevieve Yam
Loaded Baked Potato SoupSerious Eats / Amanda Suarez"It's not even so much that I want to make Genevieve's loaded baked potato soup, as much as I need to. New England's chilly November nights require cozy sweaters and a soup with this level of comfort. I look forward to tucking into a bowl of the starchy soup with a blanket draped over my shoulders." —Leah Colins
Parker House RollsSerious Eats / Fred Hardy"My family gathering always had rolls. They are obviously not a main dish, and at a summer barbecue they don't even make sense as a side, but they were always there, no matter the season, and there were never, ever enough. Aunt Jenny would bake, these fluffy, yeasted rolls that people would squirrel away for themselves. Were they Parker House rolls? I don't know. I don't have the recipe and she won't give it to me. It's her superpower. I will make these at Thanksgiving and see what they say. I can't wait." —Kelli Solomon
Pumpkin CakeVicky Wasik"By, 'I'm going to make this,' I clearly mean, 'I am going to ask my boyfriend, a professional baker,' to make this for me. The texture of the cake looks divine, and that cream cheese frosting is singing a siren song to me. I can't wait to eat roughly half of it in one sitting." —Rochelle Bilow, commerce editor
Dubai Chocolate TartSerious Eats / Robbie Lozano"My mouth waters every time I see a video of the infamous Dubai chocolate. Once we dropped this tart recipe inspired by the viral confection, I knew I would have to make it to get a taste of the irresistible combination of chocolate, pistachio, tahini, and kataifi pastry for myself. Every year at Thanksgiving, we have a few guests who aren't a fan of the usual pumpkin and apple desserts, so I'm excited to make this tart this year to add a chocolate option to the mix." —Yasmine Maggio, associate editor
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen I was growing up in Hong Kong, my entire family—my parents, two sisters, and my six sets of aunts and uncles, along with my many cousins—would pile into my grandparent’s apartment for dinner every Sunday. Every week, without fail, my grandparents churned out a magnificent meal with enough food to feed all 33 of us. We always started dinner with a soup, such as pork broth with arrowroot, and we often ate whole steamed fish, leafy greens blanched or stir-fried with sliced ginger and large cloves of garlic, and steamed Chinese meatloaf speckled with salted duck egg. The pièce de résistance, though, was my grandmother’s soy sauce chicken, which she prepared by gently simmering a whole bird in a mixture of water, soy sauce, scallions, and fresh ginger. She’d cut up the entire chicken, arrange it neatly on a platter, and serve it with a simple ginger and scallion dipping sauce.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThough I no longer live in Hong Kong, my grandmother still makes soy sauce chicken for me whenever I visit—and it is always just as delicious as I remember it being when I was a child. The meat is unfailingly tender and moist, and the skin, tinted brown with soy sauce, has savory depth and a hint of sweetness from rock sugar. It’s a flavor that evokes memories of home and family for me, and one I yearn for so frequently that I was inspired to create my own version of the dish. My rendition, however, is an easier weeknight-friendly dish that requires no whole chicken and no gentle poaching—and combines my love for the flavors of the classic with my fondness for crispy chicken skin.
Dry-Brine Your ChickenWhile you can certainly make delicious chicken without dry-brining, it’s worth taking the time to dry-brine if you want the most flavorful and tender chicken. Dry-brining simply refers to salting and resting food (typically meat) before you cook it, and as we’ve often mentioned on Serious Eats, a dry brine is more effective than a wet one if you want juicy, crispy-skinned, well seasoned meat. As former Serious Eats senior culinary editor Sasha noted in his guide to dry-brining, wet brines can waterlog your meat, diluting its flavor and hindering browning. A dry brine, on the other hand, draws out the natural moisture from the meat, creating a “concentrated brine that, when given enough time, is naturally absorbed back into the meat before cooking,” Sasha notes. The result is a well seasoned piece of meat that’s moist and tender, with skin that crisps up easily. It’s a minimal effort step that lets time do the hard work for you, and you can dry-brine your chicken as far as three days in advance.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMSG Is Your FriendNow that we've established that dry-brining is a good idea, the question is what to dry-brine the chicken with. Here, I reach for MSG (monosodium glutamate), an umami-rich ingredient that adds a deep savory flavor to dishes. In his marinades investigation, contributor Tim Chin found that MSG was particularly effective in seasoning meat, more so than just salt and spices alone.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBased on his findings, I decided to incorporate MSG into my dry brine, along with salt, five spice powder, dark brown sugar, and ground white pepper. Most traditional soy sauce chicken recipes don't call for five spice powder, but the ingredient—a blend of star anise, cloves, cassia bark or cinnamon, Sichuan pepper, and fennel seeds—adds an additional layer of flavor to the dish, and provides a pleasant warmth that complements the dark brown sugar’s molasses notes.
For Tender Chicken With Crispy Skin, Sear It—Then Gently BraiseInstead of the traditional method of simmering an entire chicken on the stovetop, which requires careful babysitting to ensure it never reaches a boil—a recipe for tough, rubbery poultry—I prepare the chicken like I would a Western-style braise. I sear chicken thighs until the skin is crispy, then remove the chicken and sauté scallions, ginger, and garlic with brown sugar, five spice, star anise, and cassia bark or a cinnamon stick before deglazing with soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, and water. I nestle the chicken thighs back into the sauce skin-side-up, transfer it to the oven, then let it gently cook at 300ºF (150ºC). The result is chicken with tender meat that's full of flavor and has crispy skin, tender scallions, and a deeply savory sauce that's perfect alongside rice.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis may not be my grandmother’s chicken, but it’s a close enough rendition that’s delicious and easy enough for me to whip up on a weeknight without requiring me to babysit my chicken on the stove. I serve it with stir-fried bok choy to round out the meal, though the dish really doesn't need anything more than bowls of rice on the side. My husband and child love this meal as much as I do, and request it frequently. I may not be sitting at my grandparent's table every Sunday night, but it certainly feels like it when I make these soy sauce–braised chicken thighs for my own family. And who knows? It might even become our own Sunday night tradition.
In a small bowl, whisk together salt, MSG, 1/2 teaspoon five spice powder, 3 tablespoons dark brown sugar, and ground white pepper to combine. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing a paper towel, pat chicken thighs dry. Season chicken generously on all sides with salt mixture. Transfer to a wire rack set in a rimmed 13- by 18-inch baking sheet and refrigerate, uncovered, at least 8 hours and up to 72. (If skipping dry brine, rub chicken with spice mixture in step 1 and proceed with step 3 of recipe.)
When ready to cook, adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat to 300ºF (150ºC). Using paper towels, pat chicken dry.
In a large cast iron or carbon steel skillet set over medium heat, heat vegetable oil until shimmering. Working in batches if necessary, add chicken, skin-side-down, and cook without moving until well-browned and crispy, 4 to 6 minutes. Flip chicken and cook lightly on second side, about 2 minutes. Transfer chicken to a large plate and set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezReduce heat to medium-low. Add scallions, ginger, garlic, 1 teaspoon five spice powder, and 3 tablespoons dark brown sugar and cook, stirring, until vegetables are softened and starting to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add star anise, cassia bark or cinnamon stick, soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, and water, and bring to a simmer over medium heat.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezReturn chicken to pan skin-side-up, leaving the skin above the liquid but submerging most of the meat. Transfer skillet to oven and cook uncovered until chicken is cooked through and tender and registers at least 175ºF (79ºC), about 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRemove pan from oven. Serve with rice and vegetables, if desired.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentWire rack, 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet, cast iron or carbon steel skillet, instant read thermometer
NotesThe cooked chicken can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days, but the skin will lose its crispiness. Once cooled, the cooked chicken and the sauce can be frozen together in an airtight container for up to 1 month. Let thaw in the fridge overnight.
To reheat chicken, microwave until warmed through, about 1 1/2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerWhether tucked into a tin for neighbors, artfully arranged at a cookie swap, or left on a plate for Santa, cookies are a mainstay of the holiday season. Roll-and-cut classics like Gingerbread Cookies or Rolled Sugar Cookie Cutouts are delightful to decorate, and sandwich cookies like nutty Raspberry Linzer Cookies or gooey-sweet Alfajores Con Cajeta burst with flavor from their decadent fillings.
No matter if you make the same tried-and-true family recipes every holiday season or branch out into new territory, you need the best cookie baking gear to achieve the best results. Luckily, our team has spent hundreds of hours testing baking equipment to find the best tools to measure, mix, portion, bake, and decorate cookies with ease and precision. Consider an upgrade from your battered cookie sheets or struggling mixer and invest in a few handy items that will make your cookie baking marathons much more streamlined and enjoyable this holiday season. With these tools in your arsenal (many of which are quite affordable!), your cookies will be as fun and easy to make as they are to eat.
Unsurprisingly, we are #teamkitchenscale here at Serious Eats. Especially when you’re baking, a kitchen scale will ensure the most accurate measurements of ingredients, with the added bonus of cutting way down on cleanup—you can weigh each ingredient right into the mixing bowl without the need to dirty a bunch of measuring cups. (However, if you do prefer measuring by volume, we recommend using one of our tested and approved measuring cups.) Streamline your holiday cookie baking and ensure consistent results every time with our winning scale by OXO. It features a pull-out display that makes it easy to read, even with extra-large mixing bowls on top, and its power-saving standby mode holds onto the most recent weight measurement for a full 15 minutes in case you have to step away.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerWhen you’re measuring out ingredients and mixing together cookie dough, you’ll need a set of roomy, durable mixing bowls. Metal bowls are lighter and easier to store than glass and are the preferred bowl material of most Serious Eats staffers. This no-frills set by Vollrath is favored by restaurant professionals (and by us in our review!) and has five wide, shallow bowls that allow for easy stirring, mixing, and pouring. They’re super low-cost and will last a lifetime.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyMany cookie recipes start with creaming together butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Do so with ease using our winning hand mixer by Breville, which has rubber-coated beaters that scrape the sides of the bowl to mix cookie dough effectively, powerfully, and remarkably quietly. This mixer is comfortable to hold and has lots of helpful extras, like a digital display with a built-in timer, a pause button, a light that shines into the mixing bowl, and a snap-on case for storing the attachments and cord.
Serious Eats / Afton CyrusIf you bake cookies often or in large quantities, you may want to upgrade from a hand mixer to a stand mixer. Invest in the best with this stable and powerful model by KitchenAid. Its seven-quart capacity and well-designed attachments allow it to tackle large and small batches, and its silicone-lined paddle is perfect for scraping and mixing sticky cookie dough. If you only bake cookies during the holidays, consider our pick for casual bakers, the more affordable KitchenAid Artisan Series 5-Quart Tilt-Head Stand Mixer.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmFor portioning balls of cookie dough (or meatballs! or falafel!), no kitchen should be without a portion scoop. Also called dishers or cookie scoops, these scoops make portioning sticky dough faster, neater, and totally consistent from cookie to cookie. This red-handled #24 scoop from Winco doles out three tablespoons at a time, perfect for medium- to large-sized cookies, and the purple-handled #40 scoop is great for petite projects at 1.5 tablespoons per scoop.
Serious Eats / Eric KingIf you’re rolling dough for cut-out cookies, you’ll need a perfectly even thickness. Thick and thin spots create cookies that will bake at different rates—and you’ll risk some of them burning on the baking sheet while others are underbaked. If you've struggled to achieve level, consistent slabs of dough in the past, try this dowel-style rolling pin. Simple in design but super effective, this pin rolled out the most even dough of the bunch in our testing of rolling pins. Prefer a French-style tapered pin? Mais oui! The J.K. Adams FRP-1 Maple French Rolling Pin also performed beautifully in our testing.
Serious Eats / Eric KingLining your baking sheet with parchment paper not only provides a surface that even the sugariest cookie dough won’t stick to, but it also helps to prevent scorching and makes cleanup quick and easy. Save yourself the frustration of tearing off uneven strips of rolled-up parchment and upgrade to pre-cut, rectangular parchment paper sheets that are perfectly sized to fit a half-sheet baking pan. These heavy-duty silicone-coated sheets from King Arthur Baking Company can be reused a few times—good information if you’re concerned about waste.
Debbie WeeThis convenient two-pack of our winning baking sheet will keep you cranking out multiple batches of cookies. In our testing of baking sheets, cookies came out consistently golden brown and evenly baked using these durable pans, and their rolled rims were easy and comfortable to grip and hold onto. They’re quite reasonably priced, too. (Bonus: Add a snap-on lid and store your cookies right on the baking sheet!)
Serious Eats / Irvin LinIf you want to skip using parchment paper but still have your cookies release cleanly from the pan, consider a nonstick baking sheet. In our tests, cookies baked on the Cuisinart pan came out evenly golden brown and slid off easily. The cookies did turn out a smidge darker than those baked on lighter colored pans, so check on the earlier side of the baking range to make sure they’re perfectly baked.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinOnce your gorgeous cookies come out of the oven, they’ll need a place to land and cool off. In our testing of cooling racks, cookies chilled quickly on this rack without warping, and spatulas slid effortlessly over it without snagging. The lack of center support in its design also made the rack easier to clean, a big win in our books. It was the cheapest wire rack we tested—get a few if you’re making lots of cookies!
Serious Eats / Irvin LinTo decorate cookies with icing, grab a set of these small piping bags. They’re called tipless bags because you don’t need a piping tip to use them. Many cookie decorators will simply snip off the very end and that gives enough precision to outline even the most complicated cookie shapes. If you do wish to use a tip with them, reach for a Wilton or Ateco detail round tip in size 2 or 3, perfect for piping borders of thick royal icing on cookies before flooding them with a thinner icing.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIf you’re spreading frosting or ganache over the top of your cookies or a filling sandwiched in between them, a small offset spatula is much more effective than a butter knife. It’s also great for shimmying under rolled-out sugar cookie dough to transfer cutouts to a baking sheet or to lift delicate cookies off of the sheet after baking. This 4.5-inch mini offset spatula from Ateco is nimble, versatile, and inexpensive.
Serious Eats / Eric KingFor the most vibrant colors of frosting and icing, put down those bottles of liquid food coloring from the grocery store and invest in what the professionals use. Gel pastes are ultra-concentrated, so a few drops are all you need for vivid color, and this set by AmeriColor has a nice range of hues.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikFAQs What’s the difference between a cookie sheet and a baking sheet?A flat, rimless cookie sheet has one very short, angled edge and is open on its other three sides. A rimmed baking sheet is a flat pan with one-inch edges on all sides, and is generally a standard size (for example, a half-sheet pan is 18 inches long and 13 inches wide). While a cookie sheet is fine to use for baking cookies, it’s limited in other applications. We recommend investing in a more versatile rimmed baking sheet instead, which can also roast vegetables, bake a sheet cake, or accommodate an entire dinner’s worth of food.
Is it better to bake cookies on parchment paper or a silicone baking mat?We recommend baking cookies on parchment paper versus silicone. Silicone affects how heat is conducted to the dough, and its nonstick surface allows for more spread, causing the cookies to become dense and greasy with a hint of bitterness from excessive browning. Save your silicone baking mat for sticky projects like making nut brittles or syrupy granolas.
Can I freeze cookie dough?Most cookie doughs freeze well if you want to break up your holiday cookie baking into stages or enjoy smaller batches of fresh-baked cookies on demand. Portion your cookies as directed onto wax or parchment paper, then fold them into packets and place them into zip-top bags. The cookie dough portions can be refrigerated for up to a week or frozen for three to six months. It’s a good idea to label the bags with the dough type, the date you made it, and the baking instructions so they’re easy to bake off quickly or give away for others to bake and enjoy.
Why We’re the Experts Afton Cyrus is a food blogger, recipe developer, culinary instructor, and freelance food writer and editor with a passion for baking. She spent eight years as a test cook and editor at America’s Test Kitchen before becoming a contributor to Serious Eats in 2023. Since then, she has reviewed hand mixers, liquid measuring cups, fondue pots, and pressure canners. * Her recipes and food writing appear online for Serious Eats, King Arthur Baking Company, and other outlets, and in print in award-winning and New York Times-*bestselling cookbooks for America’s Test Kitchen and Ten Speed Press. * At Serious Eats, we regularly revisit our tested reviews to ensure our findings remain current.
Daniel GritzerCan you feel it in the air? No, not the fall breeze, and no, not Mariah Carey waiting for the perfect moment to defrost. It’s that feeling that slowly creeps up on us every four years, then hits us with a pounding wave of anxiety and existential dread. That’s right, it’s election season.
No matter where you fall on the political spectrum, election night can be stressful, whether you’re tuning into the results all night or just trying to distract yourself. And stressful times call for comforting foods. With recipes such as pasta (and lots of it), chicken pot pie, chocolate cake, and kettle corn, this collection of recipes to make on election night won’t solve all the world’s problems, but these dishes will at least give you an emotional respite, even if only for a brief moment.
3-Ingredient Stovetop Mac and CheesePhotographs: Vicky Wasik. Video: J. Kenji López-AltStep aside, boxed mac and cheese—this recipe has fewer ingredients, comes together in the same amount of time, and is doubly delicious and comforting.
Pasta e Ceci (Pasta With Chickpeas)Andrew JanjigianPasta with brothy chickpeas is Italian comfort food at its best.
Gnocchi Alla Sorrentina (Baked Gnocchi With Tomato and Mozzarella)Daniel GritzerThe secret to success with this recipe is to get each component right, from the tomato sauce to the mozzarella, and to use homemade gnocchi that hold their shape but remain tender. How's that for a project that will keep you busy?
Easy Chicken Pot PieSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeA simple, ultra-comforting chicken pot pie with a shatteringly crisp crust? Sign us up.
Chicken and Wild Rice SoupSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeThis chicken and wild rice soup is a hearty meal ideal for a chilly—or scary—day.
Loaded Baked Potato SoupSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis silky-smooth soup is loaded with baked potato flavor.
Toor DalSerious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaThis hearty, satisfying dish of spiced pigeon peas is like a hug on an otherwise stressful day.
Southern Cathead BiscuitsSerious Eats / Qi AiThe fluffiest biscuits are also as easy as can be. Good luck eating just one!
Grilled Cheese SandwichSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezDo you need a recipe for grilled cheese? Probably not, but our method guarantees the best results every time.
Pennsylvania Dutch Apple PieSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezLike a cross between apple crisp and apple pie, this dessert features a flakey crust and creamy apple filling that’s topped with a buttery crumble.
Chocolate Chip Skillet CookieSerious Eats / Victor ProtasioA giant cookie that's extra chewy and crisp around the edges? Say less.
Chocolate Mayonnaise CakeSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineThis rich, fudgy cake is ideal for when those chocolate cravings hit.
Kettle CornSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeMaking the salty-sweet popcorn at home requires just one pot, four ingredients, and under five minutes.
Air-Fryer Bake & Shake “Doritos”Serious Eats / Jackie AlpersYou'll (probably) never go bagged again.
Old Fashioned CocktailSerious Eats / Two BitesThe classic Old Fashioned cocktail features little more than whiskey, sugar, and bitters—you know, something to take the edge off.
Big-Batch Apposta CocktailSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis easy cocktail features a blend of gin, Italian vermouth, Aperol, tart lemon juice, and bubbly grapefruit soda. Perfect for an election nigh watch party!
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaIf you’re South Asian, chances are you grew up with dal as a nourishing part of your diet. It’s the kind of meal that can soothe you after a long, exhausting journey or a stressful day at work. I find nothing more comforting than a bowl of steaming hot dal served with rice and a generous drizzle of ghee—it’s hearty and satisfying, with an earthy, garlicky flavor that reminds me of my mom’s cooking in Mumbai.
There are many kinds of dals; in Hindi, the word refers to dried beans, lentils, or peas, and it's also the name of the simple stew-like dish prepared with these pulses. Toor dal, also known as pigeon peas, is a perennial legume that’s been a staple in Indian households for centuries. It is a food that transcends economic and social boundaries, making it one of the most widely consumed dishes in India. Nutritious and rich in protein, toor dal is eaten twice daily in many homes throughout India, including my parent’s.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaDal is extraordinarily easy to make yet deeply satisfying. To make the stew, you simmer pulses with spices and aromatics, then top it with tadka (more on that below) and ghee for a dish that delivers complex layers of flavor in every bite. Dal is one of the most forgiving dishes to prepare: The ingredients required are inexpensive and easy to find, making it accessible to people from all walks of life. It’s a meal that can be as humble or as luxurious as you want, depending on the accompaniments or variations you choose to make.
Every household has their own version: Some families may add tamarind or jaggery for a sweet and sour dal, others may bulk up the dish with vegetables like spinach and eggplant. My recipe below, which comes from my mother, keeps things simple with the addition of onion and tomato. Though it isn’t difficult to make, there are several key steps to making a truly superb pot of toor dal. Read on for my tips.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaWash Your DalIt’s essential to wash the dal thoroughly under cold water before cooking, as it helps to get rid of any dirt, grit, or stones that may make their way into your bag of peas. If you plan ahead you can cut down on cooking time by about 20 to 25 minutes by soaking the dal in cool water for two to 12 hours ahead of cooking, but it's not absolutely necessary, and I don’t call for it here.
How to Prepare Toor DalOnce the dal is clean I place the peas in a pot with water and salt and gently simmer them until they soften, a process that takes about 45 minutes if they haven't been previously soaked and 20 to 25 minutes if they have been. I then add aromatics, including onions, tomatoes, and turmeric, which impart a subtle earthiness to the dal and add body to the dish. Adding the onions and tomatoes once the dal is softened allows the vegetables to maintain some bite instead of fully disintegrating into the dal, and ensures that you get some sweetness from the onions and tanginess from the tomatoes in each spoonful. While the dal is delicious at this stage, the real magic happens when you make the tadka—or tempering of spices.
How to Make Tadka to Add Layers of Flavor to Your DalThis technique is one of the hallmarks of Indian cooking and adds incredible depth of flavor to the dish; cooks use it to top khichadi (a rice and lentil dish), coconut chutney, and sambar (a lentil and vegetable stew), among many other foods. The tadka involves heating oil or ghee—whatever is readily available—in a pan, then adding dried spices like black mustard seeds, cumin seeds, and sometimes a pinch of asafoetida, along with fresh aromatics like curry leaves and fresh garlic. As the spices sizzle, they release their fragrant aromas and infuse the hot oil with flavor.
Cooks then pour the flavored oil or ghee over the cooked dal—sometimes stirring it in—which transforms the dish from a simple stew into something far more dynamic, with the tadka bringing layers of nutty, earthy, and slightly smoky flavors. The tadka melts into the dal and you get a little bit of the soft, velvety peas, the crunch of the mustard seeds, the fragrance of the curry leaves, and the mild warmth from the garlic in every bite. It’s a dish that tastes greater than the sum of its parts, and one I suspect you—like me—will never tire of.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaFor the Dal: Place toor dal in a large bowl and cover by 2 inches with cool water. Using your hands, vigorously swish toor dal until water turns cloudy, about 30 seconds. Using a fine-mesh strainer, drain toor dal, discarding the cloudy water.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaIn a medium pot or Dutch oven, combine toor dal, 4 cups (946ml) water, and 1 tablespoon salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, skimming any foam that collects at the top, until peas are soft and break apart easily when pressed between your fingers, about 45 minutes. Add tomato, onion, and turmeric, stirring to combine. (Toor dal should be covered with water by 1/2 inch. If the peas look dry and are beginning to stick to bottom of pot, add enough water to cover by 1/2 an inch.) Simmer until onion and tomato have softened, 10 to 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaFor the Tadka: In a small saucepan or skillet, heat oil over high heat until it just begins to smoke. Reduce heat to medium, and carefully add asafoetida, mustard seeds, and cumin seeds. Cook, allowing seeds to sizzle and pop, about 10 seconds. Add garlic, coriander, cayenne pepper, and curry leaves and cook, stirring constantly, until curry leaves sizzle, about 10 seconds more. Immediately pour tadka over daal and stir to incorporate. Garnish pot of toor dal with cilantro leaves and 1 tablespoon ghee. Serve with white rice, roti, or as an accompaniment to any Indian meal.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaSpecial EquipmentMedium pot or Dutch oven, small saucepan or skillet
NoteToor dal can be purchased online or at South Asian grocery stores. If soaking, place toor dal (split pigeon peas) in a large bowl and cover with 2 inches of cool water, and let soak for at least 2 hours or up to 12.
Make-Ahead and StorageToor dal can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Toor dal can be frozen in an airtight container for up to 1 month; to thaw, place in fridge overnight.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonAs people who keep a close eye on kitchen equipment deals year-round, we’re always thrilled to see our favorite gear on sale. Right now, Amazon is filled with discounts from some of our most-loved brands, so of course we had to report on the deals we think are worth considering. From countertop appliances to cookware, we’ve spotted up to 47% off Breville espresso machines, Le Creuset Dutch ovens, Vitamix blenders, and more.
Fall Kitchen Deals at Amazon, at a Glance The Most Powerful Blender: Vitamix 5200 * A Great Beginner-Friendly Espresso Machine: Breville Barista Express Impress * The Best Immersion Blender: All-Clad Electrics Stainless Steel Immersion Blender * The Best Dutch Oven: Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Signature Round Dutch Oven * Our Longtime Favorite Cast Iron Pan: Lodge Cast Iron Pre-Seasoned Skillet * Our Favorite Grill: Weber Spirit II E-310 Gas Grill * The Best Cast Iron Braiser: Staub 3.5-Quart Braiser * The Most Customizable Rice Cooker: Cuckoo Micom Rice Cooker * The Best Small Air Fryer: Ninja 4-in-1 4-Quart Air Fryer * A Great Budget Enameled Cast Iron Skillet: Crock-Pot Artisan Enameled Cast Iron Skillet * Stainproof Food Storage Containers: Rubbermaid Brilliance Food Storage Containers * The Most Absorbent Kitchen Towels:* Zeppoli Classic Dish Towels
Vitamix 5200AmazonEven sinewy kale was no match for the Vitamix 5200 during our tests. This powerful blender produces silky soups, smoothies, and sauces, barely leaving behind any visible fibrous material. The analog dial offers great speed control and the tall, tapered jar promotes even blending of its contents.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreBreville Barista Express ImpressAmazonFor years, the Barista Express Impress has been our top espresso machine pick for emerging home espresso enthusiasts. It comes with a built-in grinder, tamping lever, and milk frother to cover every step of the brewing process. You can grab it for over $120 off right now.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonAll-Clad Electrics Stainless Steel Immersion BlenderAmazonWe’re in the thick of soup season, which means immersion blenders everywhere are being called into action. Our favorite one from All-Clad produces smooth soups, airy whipped cream, thoroughly emulsified mayo, and beautifully crushed ice. It’s not often on sale, but it’s 47% off right now.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreLe Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Signature Round Dutch OvenAmazonSave $100 on the Dutch oven we’ve recommended for years. Le Creuset Dutch ovens excel at heat retention and distribution, resulting in evenly seared pork shoulder and golden brown fried plantains. The handles are comfortable to hold and the smooth enamel interior resists stains.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyLodge Cast Iron Pre-Seasoned SkilletAmazonThis cast iron skillet sears pork chops to a crispy brown and releases cornbread like a dream. It’s a well-built pan that’s lasted years in our editors’ homes and is a staple in any kitchen.
As you can see, cast iron skillets come in a myriad of sheens and colors, with some sporting a dark patina and others more of a coppery tone.Weber Spirit II E-310 Gas GrillAmazonAside from Weber’s great customer service, we love how easy it is to set up and use this gas grill. Burgers are cooked evenly on the Weber Spirit, which is easy to clean once you’ve finished grilling. With three independently controlled burners and 529 square inches of cooking space, the Weber Spirit can also comfortably accommodate larger batches of food.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonStaub 3.5-Quart BraiserAmazonNo meatballs went mushy during our testing of Staub’s braiser. With a wide bottom and shallow walls, the braiser promoted moisture evaporation, resulting in delightfully seared meatballs. This version has a glass lid to allow for easy tracking of your food's progress.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayCuckoo Micom Rice CookerAmazonDuring our tests, the Cuckoo Micom rice cooker emerged as the best pick for those who like many customization options. It’s compact yet powerful, churns out fluffy rice, and even has a preset for germinated brown rice (GABA). With 12 cooking modes total, the plentiful options are great for someone who’s serious about their rice.
Serious Eats / Alexander HuangNinja 4-in-1 4-Quart Air FryerAmazonFor a smaller air fryer, the Ninja 4-quart air fryer outperformed other larger models. It easily produces crunchy fries and crispy golden wings. The preset buttons are easy to navigate, while the nonstick basket makes it a breeze to clean.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreCrock-Pot Artisan Enameled Cast Iron SkilletAmazonThis affordable enameled cast iron skillet sears, bakes, and fries just as well as the winners, yet it costs a fraction of the price. The enamel resists staining and its light weight makes it easy to maneuver on the stovetop.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayRubbermaid Brilliance Food Storage ContainersAmazonFor all of the upcoming holiday leftovers, you’ll need great food storage containers. This plastic set from Rubbermaid is our favorite thanks to its stain- and odor-resistant qualities. Plus, it’s really, truly leakproof—not something we can say of many other brands we tested.
Serious Eats / Eric KingZeppoli Classic Dish Towels, Pack of 15AmazonAt just over $1 apiece, these dish towels deserve a place in any serious cook’s kitchen. We reported a 140% absorbency rate when we tested them. These editor-favorite kitchen towels are also useful for maneuvering hot pots and pans.
Serious Eats / Henry WortockFAQsHow long will these items be on sale at Amazon?
There’s no predetermined duration for a sale on Amazon, so it’s best to act quickly before these discounts disappear.
As the holidays approach, where can I find the best gifts for family and friends?
We put together a guide full of our favorite stocking stuffers.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * She’s a professional sales tracker and is always on the lookout for the best deals on all our favorite kitchen gear.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineBeef wet fry—tender bite-size beef chunks coated in a thick tomato-based sauce—is a popular dish in Kenya, and one of my favorite easy go-to dinners. When I was growing up in Kenya, my family would sit around the dinner table enjoying generous portions of the stew-like dish laddled next to ugali (cooked cornmeal) or white rice, all prepared by my grandmother.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineIn Kenya, “wet fry” is prepared throughout the country,and it's one of the most popular methods employed by home cooks. The term refers to meat (lamb or beef) that’s sautéed with a tomato-based sauce and it’s most commonly enjoyed with ugali or rice, just as my family does. It’s incredibly flavorful, yet it's simple to prepare, making it a great weeknight dinner option. My recipe is heavily inspired by the wet fry I grew up eating, but I use a different cut of beef and have streamlined the cooking process slightly.
For a Quicker Wet Fry, Choose Sirloin SteakWet fry recipes in Kenya will vary from household to household, but the traditional preparation is consistent: It starts with cutting tougher cuts of meat, such as lamb leg or beef chuck, into small, fork-friendly pieces and then boiling the meat until tender. Then the dish is finished with the Kenyan “fry” technique, in which the meat is sautéed until browned and tossed with the simmered tomato sauce.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineIn Kenya, it’s practical to start with a tougher cut of meat since that's typically what's available, but when I make this recipe at my home in the United States, I streamline the cooking process by starting with sirloin, a more tender cut of beef that doesn’t require a long, gentle cook to tenderize it before searing. Eliminating the traditional step of boiling the meat saves over an hour of cooking time in my recipe.
In the recipe below, I slice the sirloin thin and sear the beef in batches over high heat to develop good browning without crowding the pan. This prevents the beef from steaming as it cooks and ensures it has a flavorful crust. After briefly cooking, the beef is removed to a bowl and the sauce is prepared in the same skillet.
Dialing in the "Wet" Part of Wet Fry: A Silky and Flavorful Tomato SauceThe “wet” part of wet fry is the sauce. It's almost always tomato-based, but the added seasonings can vary from household to household. I prefer an aromatic base of onions, bell peppers, garlic, ginger, and garam masala. The duo of garlic and ginger plus garam masala is widely used in coastal Kenyan cooking, where the cuisine has a strong Indian influence. I recommend using a microplane for grating both the garlic and ginger into a fine paste to ensure the flavors infuse throughout the thick sauce. (Alternatively you can start with already prepared garlic and ginger pastes, but they won’t have quite the same kick of flavor as fresh.)
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineI also add a tablespoon of tomato paste to the sauce. It adds concentrated tomato flavor and thickens the sauce slightly, ensuring the ideal velvety texture. The sauce only needs about 15 minutes to cook, and you’ll know it’s ready once the tomatoes are broken down and it’s thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Once the meat and sauce are prepared, all that’s left is to stir the seared beef back into the sauce to coat—the entire dish comes together in under 30 minutes. Whether you're looking for a comforting meal or an introduction to Kenyan cooking—or both!—my hearty beef wet fry delivers on flavor and ease.
In a 12-inch stainless-steel skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over high heat until just smoking. Add half of the beef, spreading it out in a single layer. Season lightly with salt and pepper and cook without moving until lightly browned on first side, about 1 minute. Toss and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until fully browned, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl. Repeat with 1 tablespoon oil and remaining beef.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineAfter all meat has been removed from the pan, lower the heat to medium and if skillet is dry, add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil if necessary. Add onions and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineStir in the garam masala, garlic, and ginger and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring to incorporate, until paste darkens, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineAdd tomatoes, stir to combine and cook, stirring frequently, until the tomatoes break down and vegetables soften into a cohesive, slightly chunky sauce, 7 to 8 minutes.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineOnce the sauce has thickened and the vegetables are cooked down, toss the seared beef back into the skillet, stirring to coat the meat in the sauce. Cook until warmed through, 1 to 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineStir in cilantro just before serving. Serve with ugali or white rice.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineSpecial Equipment12-inch stainless-steel skillet
NotesFor extra richness, you can substitute a portion of the tomato with beef broth or finish the sauce with a few tablespoons of coconut milk.
For grating the garlic and ginger, I recommend using a microplane.
For added spice, add a mild chili or chili flakes when adding the garlic.
Make-Ahead and StorageBeef wet fry is best served fresh but can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat gently in a skillet on the stovetop, adding a splash of water or broth if needed to create a saucy texture.
Serious Eats / Victor ProtasioI would describe myself as an occasional vegetarian who can go meatless for an extended period, say, after a stretch of carnivorous indulgence—like 11 days in South Korea sampling every pork- and beef-centric specialty (not to mention chicken) I could sink my teeth into. Now that I'm back from my trip, I'm reaching for vegetables for a good while, and fall is the perfect season for deeply flavorful, hunger-crushing vegetarian mains. I'm talking about pasta, risotto, and casseroles loaded with hearty squashes like butternut and kabocha, mushrooms, potatoes, sturdy kale, and Brussels sprouts.
We've rounded up recipes that make the most of this seasonal produce, like our super fast and easy-to-make creamy pressure cooker mushroom risotto. Ready to fire up the oven? You'll fall for our no-boil baked ziti or luscious vegetarian pot pie topped with a flaky crust. Most of these fall vegetarian dinner recipes are simple enough to make on weeknights, and so satisfying that they just might turn me into more than an occasional vegetarian.
Pressure-Cooker Mushroom RisottoSerious Eats / Mariel De La CruzThis creamy, deeply satisfying risotto gets its intense mushroom flavor from a combination of well-browned fresh mushrooms, dried porcini, and stock infused with mushroom trimmings. A touch of soy sauce and miso paste amplifies the mushrooms' rich savory characteristics. And the best part? It's ready in mere minutes—no stirring required.
Easy Vegetarian Pot PieSerious Eats / Victor ProtasioPrepping the filling and baking the assembled pot pie in the same cast iron skillet—also using store-bought puff pastry and frozen pearl onions—means you can put together this excellent umami-rich main in about 20 minutes with minimal cleanup. It's a recipe that's as well-suited for a weeknight as it is a weekend.
The Best Vegetarian Bean ChiliSerious Eats / Julia EstradaBrisk fall weather calls for rib-sticking fare, and this vegan chili delivers on that count, along with the deep, spicy flavor and textural contrast you'd expect from a traditional version made with meat. We achieved this by using a variety of whole-dried chiles, simmering them for some time to concentrate the chili's flavor, while preserving the texture of the beans and vegetables with acidic ingredients.
Channa MasalaSerious Eats / Mateja Zvirotic AndrijanicThis dish of plump chickpeas bathed in a spicy and tangy tomato sauce is a staple of Indian and Pakistani cuisine. In our version, we doctor up store-bought garam masala with additional spices for maximum results so that a half-hour simmer is all you need to infuse canned chickpeas with all the sauce's flavor.
Hearty Vegan Polenta and Kale Soup With Miso and Toasted Sesame OilSerious Eats / Fred HardyWe put a decidedly Japanese twist on an easy Italian favorite with miso paste, soy sauce, toasted sesame oil, and scallions to add depth of flavor to a very simple hearty soup. Using homemade vegetable stock makes it all the more tasty,
No-Boil Baked Ziti RecipeSerious Eats / Robby LozanoCooler autumn weather is a signal to fire up the oven and bake some pasta. Kenji's genius pasta-soaking method guarantees perfectly al dente-baked pasta without the need to use an extra pot or wait for it to boil.
Pasta With Butternut Squash and Sage Brown ButterSerious Eats / Vicky WasikHere, using less water to cook the pasta concentrates the starch which helps the brown butter sauce quickly emulsify into a creamy coating. Honestly, the hardest thing about this fast flavorful dish is dicing up the butternut squash into uniform cubes.
Orecchiette With Broccoli and Toasted HazelnutsSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn this recipe, the classic pairing of orecchiette and broccoli is given a luxurious upgrade with a creamy turmeric sauce and crunchy toasted hazelnuts which impart earthy notes that keep with the season.
Pressure Cooker Butternut Squash Risotto With Frizzled Sage and Brown ButterSerious Eats / Vicky WasikHere, the pressure cooker already drastically reduces cooking time, so taking an extra step to roast the squash with apple and aromatics for deeper flavor isn't that much more effort given the results. Miso in the puréed squash mixture balances its sweetness with savory complexity, while brown butter, frizzled sage, and grated Parmesan add the finishing touch.
Mozzarella in Carrozza (Italian Fried Mozzarella Sandwiches)Serious Eats / Qi AiThere's nothing better than dipping a melty grilled cheese sandwich into a hot bowl of soup to warm you right up...unless we're talking about a breaded and fried mozzarella sandwich. Paired with a rich and creamy tomato or butternut squash soup? Mic drop!
The Best Squash LasagnaSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltWe layer kabocha squash (in a creamy purée and sautéed with apple) with pasta and plenty of cheese to create the ultimate fall-inspired casserole. No-boil pasta sheets soaked in water cut down on the work while delivering superior results.
Hobak Beombeok (Korean Squash, Sweet Potato, and Bean Porridge)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikLoaded with winter squash, beans, sweet potatoes, and chestnuts, a comforting bowl of this all-vegetable Korean porridge can serve as a simple meal accompanied by a side dish of kimchi for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.
Crispy Kale, Brussels Sprouts, and Potato HashSerious Eats / Mateja Zvirotic AndrijanicHash is one of those dishes made better when topped with a couple of soft-cooked eggs, like this crispy combination of kale, Brussels sprouts, and potatoes—perfect for a light supper or hearty brunch. Par-cooking the potatoes gelatinizes the starches and helps crisp up the exterior as they brown in the skillet.
Ribollita (Hearty Tuscan Bean, Bread, and Vegetable Stew)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikYou can use any seasonal vegetables for this Tuscan vegetable soup, though it's particularly well-suited for root vegetables, hearty greens, and winter squash. Contrary to its name, ribollita does not have to be boiled twice—once is plenty. You can, however, turn the soup into a porridge by adjusting the amount of liquid, or even fry it into a pancake.
Serious Eats / Sal VaglicaThere is nothing about a colander I find enjoyable. From the space it occupies in the cabinet and the dishwasher to the idea that it holds food an inch or so above the bottom of a—let’s be honest—germy sink, nearly everything about the tool needs help. For most pasta dishes, I fish noodles out of boiling water with a spider so I can finish them in sauce in a separate pan. However, having a kid changed how we make pasta.
Any parent who denies leaning on boxed mac and cheese is lying. For years my wife grumbled about what a pain our colander is, which is about the same size as our four-quart mixing bowl, dragging it out to drain the medium saucepan full of water required to make about two-and-a-half cups of pasta, as part of a kid-approved dinner. So when she pointed out the Chef’s Planet Clip On Pasta Strainer years ago, I shrugged when asked if I thought it would work. I was doubtful as it had an “as seen on TV” vibe to it. I waited a few weeks—just long enough for the mac and cheese troubles to bubble up again—before gifting it to her. Yes, reader, I know: Not all heroes wear capes. That was seven or eight years ago, and the strainer has essentially replaced our colander for all but the biggest jobs (though we still save a cup of that sweet pasta water when we want to finish it with a sauce).
Now we boil the pasta, clip the strainer onto the pot at the stove, drain the noodles mostly dry, pop off the strainer into the sink, and then finish the prep off with butter, milk, and neon orange powdered cheese. After dinner, we nestle the Chef’s Planet neatly between a pair of tines in the dishwasher’s upper rack.
Why It’s GreatThe reason the strainer is so successful is a numbers game. A standard six-ounce box of mac and cheese is filled with dozens of tiny shells, though your kid’s favorite brand might have small elbows or Paw Patrol footprints. None of these shapes are easy to pull out with a spider strainer or slotted spoon and it’s such a little amount of water that using a massive colander feels like overkill. We’re dealing with about six cups of water to make a box, so we usually turn to our small, 1.5-quart saucepot or the taller, three-quart version. With either, it’s hardly the volume of water needed to make a box of spaghetti. The Chef’s Planet is just the right amount of hassle to deal with when it comes to small to medium-sized pots. When not in use it sits in our kitchen junk drawer, right next to those small plunger-style measuring cups.
The Shape Is UniversalSerious Eats / Sal VaglicaThe strainer’s 91 holes drain water efficiently, but you have to pour with a bit more attention than when using a larger colander. The roughly seven-by-three-inch wall keeps most of the food in the saucepot, but if you pour too aggressively some shells might jump ship and into the germy pool that is your sink. The clamp has a silicone pad that grips the outside of the pot, preventing the attachment from sliding, so you can send scalding hot water to your drain with confidence. It’s made from ABS plastic, so it’s food-safe and hasn't warped. Instead of a typical coiled metal spring to provide the clamp’s tension, the Chef’s Planet uses a wide strip of stainless steel that's remained rust-free all these years later. It grips onto any pot we have, though the design, which includes a short fence that hugs the outside lip of the pot, seems to fit best on our three-quart saucepan, which is about 7.75 inches wide. While we’ve used it for full boxes of regular pasta, it can be awkward to tip a Dutch oven or stockpot over into the sink and hold it there for a few seconds while it drains. So, we still keep a colander around for large batches of spaghetti.
Its Uses Go Beyond Mac and CheeseIt’s not a spec you’ll find online, but the radius on the arch of the strainer is 9.05 inches—so it will fit a wide range of round diameters. Other ways I use it: to strain water away from microwaved veggies in a one-quart bowl, to catch the shredded bits of meat at the bottom of our pressure cooker that I didn’t want to clog up the drain, and to strain tomato juice away from solids in a 28-ounce can.
FAQsIs the Chef’s Planet Clip On Pasta Strainer heat-resistant?Yes, the Chef’s Planet is made from heat-resistant, food-safe ABS plastic. While some descriptions mention its ability to strain grease from a frying pan, I’d only recommend doing that once the oil has cooled to room temperature. The attachment is also dishwasher-safe.
What is the difference between a strainer and a colander?They can sometimes perform similar tasks, but generally, a colander is a bowl-shaped vessel perforated with holes or spaces that allow the cooking liquid to pass through while capturing the food. A strainer, often called a fine-mesh strainer, is a handheld device that is like a small colander with a handle, though the holes are much smaller and spaced closer together so it can filter out food particles like pulp from juice.
My pot or bowl has a lip, will the Chef’s Planet fit?The strainer has a fence molded in that hugs the outer edge of the pot’s rim, with a tab that then sits on the inside of the pot. There is a roughly 0.375-inch wide gap between the two, so as long as your pot’s lip is narrower than that, it should fit.
Why We’re the Experts* Sal Vaglica was the equipment editor for Serious Eats. He now freelances for the site. * Sal has used the Chef’s Planet strainer, instead of a full-size colander, at least once a week for years now.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe classic baked potato is a well-loved dish, but it usually functions as a supporting character to the main event—a charbroiled steak, a juicy pork chop, or a roasted chicken. Another world is possible, however, one in which the baked potato is the meal, replete with protein, vegetables, and overflowing with buttery potato mash.
This recipe is a perfect example. It takes the comforting flavors of shepherd’s pie and stuffs them into a cozy potato jacket. It's as much a hearty twist on the classic baked potato as it is a repackaging of shepherd's pie, moving it from the typical large casserole dish to single-serving, fully-loaded, potentially make-ahead potato skins.
To enhance these potatoes even more, instead of topping them with simple mashed potatoes, I fold egg yolks into the mashed potato, turning them into pipe-able duchess potatoes that make a beautiful star pattern on top. Showered with Parmesan and baked until golden, it's a fun and satisfying dish that turns the humble potato into a true star of the plate.
This Recipe's Techniques for SuccessAdd Some Umami to the FillingThe shepherd’s pie filling here is basically just a half-sized batch of Daniel’s shepherd’s pie recipe, with one tweak: Instead of the Marmite in his recipe, I call for optional fish sauce in addition to the Worcestershire sauce already in the recipe; all of these ingredients play a similar role of umami-booster, so use whichever you have in your pantry (even Worcestershire alone will do the trick).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezEnhance the Mashed Potato ToppingIn a classic twice-baked potato, the potato flesh is scooped out, seasoned, and enriched with ingredients like butter, and then packed back into the skins for a second baking. Here, though, we're packing the meat stew into the potato skins and then topping that with piped mashed potatoes. In a case like this, it helps to harness the power of duchess potatoes, which are whipped with egg, cream, and butter for a smooth and pipable result that holds its shape beautifully when baked.
All you need is a pastry bag and a star tip to give these potatoes a touch of flair that’ll make you proud to serve them to guests—or just to yourself. You’ll have some extra mashed potatoes since the quantity of scooped-out potatoes exceeds what’s needed to top the dish, so check out the linked duchess potatoes recipe for instructions on making individual portions to serve alongside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf Using Only the Oven for the Potatoes (see notes): Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Using a fork or paring knife, puncture potatoes in several spots. Rub each potato with a light coat of oil. Arrange on a rack set on a baking sheet, or directly on an oven rack, and bake until a fork can easily be inserted into the center of each potato, about 1 hour. If setting potatoes directly on the oven rack, set a sheet of foil on the rack below to catch any oil drips.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf Using the Microwave and Oven for the Potatoes (see notes): Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). Using a fork or paring knife, puncture potatoes in several spots. Microwave potatoes for 5 minutes. Rub each potato with a light coat of oil. Arrange on a rack set on a baking sheet, or directly on an oven rack, and bake until a fork can easily be inserted into the center of each potato, about 20 minutes. If setting potatoes directly on the oven rack, set a sheet of foil on the rack below to catch any oil drips.
If Using Only the Microwave for the Potatoes (see notes): Using a fork, prick skin of the potatoes all over. Working in batches if needed, place potatoes on microwave-safe plate, and microwave on high power until potatoes are tender and can be easily pierced with a paring knife, 10 to 12 minutes.
Let potatoes stand until cool enough to handle, then slice off upper-third of the potatoes lenthwise (like a potato canoe). Scoop out potato flesh into a medium bowl, leaving a 1/4-inch layer attached to the skin.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing a ricer, pass the potatoes into a medium bowl. Using a flexible spatula, stir in butter until incorporated. Add cream, folding until incorporated. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in beaten egg mixture until combined, taking care not to overmix the potatoes. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeanwhile, for the Meat Sauce: In a 1-cup liquid measuring cup, add stock, sprinkle gelatin on top, and set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large skillet or sauté pan, heat oil over high heat until shimmering. Add half of ground meat and cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pot, until well browned, 6 to 8 minutes; use a potato masher or large whisk to break up meat. Add remaining meat and cook, breaking up with masher or whisk, until reduced to small bits, about 3 minutes; lower heat as necessary to prevent scorching. If meat has rendered an excessive amount of fat, use a metal spoon to ladle most of it out, leaving just a few tablespoons in the pot. Add onion, carrots, celery, and garlic and cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pot, until just beginning to soften slightly, about 4 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd tomato paste and cook over medium heat, stirring, for 1 minute. Add red wine and bring to a simmer over high heat. Cook, scraping up any browned bits, until almost fully evaporated. Add reserved chicken stock, thyme, bay leaf, Worcestershire, and fish sauce, if using. Sprinkle flour over ground meat in pot, then stir in. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low and simmer until sauce is reduced and thick, about 20 minutes. Discard thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Stir in peas and season with salt and pepper.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo Assemble and Bake: Adjust oven rack to center position and preheat oven to 425°F (220°C).Brush outer skins with melted butter and place in a 9- by 13-inch dish. Fill hollowed skins generously with meat mixture.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFit a piping bag with a 1/2-inch star tip. Using a flexible spatula, scraper potato mixture to piping bag. Pipe remaining potato on top by holding filled pastry bag at an 80° angle, and applying steady downward pressure to form small mounds in an even decorative pattern. You’ll have plenty leftover. We recommend piping the rest to make individual servings of pommes duchesse.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBake, rotating baking sheet halfway through, until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentMicrowave, ricer or food mill, disposable pastry bag, 1/2-inch star tip, 9- by 13-inch dish
Make Ahead and StorageThe potatoes can be assembled, wrapped with plastic, and refrigerated up to 2 days. Reheat in a 350°F (180°C) oven for about 35 minutes, then use broiler to brown top.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeNeed a Thanksgiving savory snack or New Year’s Eve passed hors d'oeuvres? Open up a bottle of wine or pour some martinis and pass around a tray of these easy sausage stuffed mushrooms. Your friends will talk.
Great stuffed mushrooms pack a lot of flavor into a small package, hitting earthy, salty, and umami notes all at once. They are the ideal party food, so it's no surprise that they've remained popular even as other festive foods have come and gone. At their best, they combine textures—a soft filling, crispy topping, and a tender but slightly chewy and perfectly browned mushroom exterior—and are small enough to eat in one bite.
But at their worst, these adorable umami bites can be soggy, bland, and rubbery, and probably the last thing you want to eat on the party buffet. Luckily for us, our Birmingham, Alabama-based test kitchen colleague Renu Dhar stuffed mushroom cap after cap, testing and tweaking, until she perfected this easy, party-worthy sausage stuffed mushroom recipe. They’re the ideal easy, crowd-pleasing party hors d'oeuvres, but with just 15 minutes of prep time and another 15 minutes in the oven, you certainly don’t need a party to enjoy these little beauties.
To ensure a flavorful filling, Renu starts with hot Italian sausage for the stuffing base. She happily discovered in her testing that the sausage doesn't need to be cooked before going into the mushrooms, which saves you time and cuts down on dirty pans. A splash of good dry red wine, plus some garlic, thyme, oregano, and red pepper flakes season the savory filling while Parmigiano-Reggiano adds richness and ensures a major punch of umami in every bite.
Generously sprinkling panko breadcrumbs over the stuffed caps before baking provides a contrasting crunch, and a clever cooking method prevents the mushrooms from turning soggy. Instead of baking the mushrooms on a sheet pan or in a baking dish, Renu found that using a cast iron skillet to roast the stuffed mushrooms captures and concentrates the mushrooms’ juices, resulting in deeper flavor as the mushrooms reabsorb this potent liquid. The cast iron skillet retains heat well and effectively browns the bottom of the mushrooms, guaranteeing they won’t turn soggy.
The result? Delicious, savory sausage stuffed mushrooms that come together in under a half hour. Now that’s something to celebrate.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 425°F (220ºC). Brush bottom of a large (10- or 12-inch) cast iron skillet with 1 teaspoon oil; set aside. In a large bowl, mix the sausage, wine, garlic, thyme, oregano, salt, red pepper (if using), 2 tablespoons Parmigiano-Reggiano, and remaining 1 teaspoon of the oil until well combined.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeSpoon about 2 teaspoons sausage mixture into each mushroom cap; place mushrooms in skillet in even layer, stuffed side up. Sprinkle filled mushrooms evenly with panko and remaining 1 tablespoon Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeBake until topping is golden brown, mushrooms are tender, and a thermometer inserted into filling registers at least 160°F (70℃), 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes before transferring to a large serving plate. Garnish with parsley. Serve warm.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeSpecial Equipment10- or 12-inch cast iron skillet
NotesLook for cremini mushrooms that are consistent in size, about 1 3/4 to 2 inches in diameter.
This recipe can easily be doubled and baked in one batch on a rimmed baking sheet or in 2 batches in a large cast iron skillet.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe sausage mixture can be prepared up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container. When ready to prepare mushrooms, proceed with step 2 as directed, adding 3 to 4 additional minutes when cooking.
Leftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days and reheated in the oven or air fryer until warmed through.
Serious Eats / An UongIt’s well-known that the moment you open up a bag of coffee, it starts to degrade. There’s no way around it. Through a process called oxidation, coffee beans start to lose their flavor and aroma over time once they’re introduced to air. For frequent coffee drinkers, this isn’t a huge problem, since they’ll likely work through a bag of beans in no time. But for casual drinkers who enjoy a cup of coffee here and there, it’s disheartening to have to toss out a bag of stale beans you’ve only scooped from a handful of times.
When we originally tested coffee canisters, it became clear that vacuum-sealed canisters are the only ones worth using if you really want to keep your beans fresh for an extended amount of time. Our top pick, the Fellow Atmos, keeps beans fresh for longer, and it now comes with an electric lid that automatically pumps out air to maintain a sealed environment without you needing to lift a finger.
The TestsSerious Eats / An Uong Coffee taste test: We pulled an espresso shot right after opening a bag of coffee beans and after storing the beans in the electric Fellow Atmos for three months, noting changes in the flavor and aroma. * Usability:* We noted how easy it was to pressurize, depressurize, and otherwise operate the electric Fellow Atmos.
What We LearnedThe New Electric Lid Is Even Easier to UseThe manual Fellow Atmos is already easy to operate, needing only a few twists back and forth to pump out air. But the electric Atmos is even easier—after you initially put in your beans, simply press a button, and it expels oxygen. After that, the lid monitors pressure levels and automatically expels air without you having to touch it. To depressurize it when you want to remove your coffee beans, simply push the button again and it will release the seal. It takes only seconds to create a vacuum inside the canister reaching up to 50 pKa, with an LED light flashing green to indicate when it’s sealed.
The battery, which can be recharged with a USB-C cable, also lasts surprisingly long, as we haven’t had to recharge it since putting it to use three months ago. Other thoughtful design features make this lid a welcome upgrade to an existing favorite, like the LED light flashing any time you pick up the canister to indicate the status of the seal and the battery level.
Serious Eats / An UongIt Works in the Background to Maintain Strong SealEvery once in a while, you’ll hear a gentle hum coming from the electric Atmos—that’s it automatically pushing out air to maintain a proper vacuum seal, since it knows when to kick in to repressurize the canister. This is especially convenient if you simply want to set it and forget it. Even with other vacuum sealed canisters such as the manual Atmos, you’ll have to check in to manually repressurize the environment.
It Really Does Keep Coffee Fresh Over MonthsAfter storing coffee beans in the Electric Atmos for a period of three months, we depressurized the lid (again, with just another push of the top button) to find the beans smelling impressively fresh. A strong aroma was still present, and when we pulled an espresso shot with the beans, the taste was nearly identical to when we first opened the bag of coffee.
Serious Eats / An UongThe VerdictFellow Atmos Electric Coffee CanisterFellowThe electric Fellow Atmos is worth grabbing if you tend to hold onto coffee beans for a while before you’re able to use them all up. It’s also a great option for those who don’t want to have to repressurize the canister every once in a while. Plus, the canister can be used with other prized dry ingredients, like your deluxe baker’s chocolate or your favorite loose-leaf tea. You can also purchase just the lid if you already have a Fellow Atmos canister but want to upgrade to the electric version.
FAQsCan I get a Fellow Atmos electric lid separately?Yes, you can! If you already have manual Fellow Atmos coffee canisters, you can grab the electric lids, which fit over any Fellow Atmos canister.
How long does the battery last on the electric Fellow Atmos lid?According to the brand, the battery lasts up to four months with a full charge. We’ve been using it for three months and haven’t needed to charge it yet.
Can I store other foods inside the Fellow Atmos?Yes, you can use it to store nuts, grains, teas, and more.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * An is married to an ex-barista who’s a coffee gear nerd so she’s accrued quite a bit of secondhand knowledge.
Getty Images / QwartGround beef is the star of many popular weeknight dishes: It can be used to make a luxurious bolognese, shaped into juicy burgers, or quickly turned into a taco filling on a hectic evening. For that reason, many people keep the versatile protein in their freezers, ready to thaw at a moment’s notice. But defrosting beef isn’t as simple as removing it from the freezer and setting it on your kitchen counter—how you thaw the meat impacts not only how long it will take to defrost, but also whether the meat is safe to cook and eat once thawed. To determine the best way to defrost beef, I froze 10 pounds of ground beef using five popular and oft-recommended methods.
Why It's Important to Defrost Ground Beef CorrectlyDefrosting meat can be a nuisance, especially if you’ve forgotten to remove it from the freezer and place it in the fridge the day before you plan to cook it (the most reliable method). As tempting as it is to dunk your package of ground beef into a bowl of hot water or to leave it near your radiator, doing either of these things places the food in the temperature danger zone (40 to 140ºF or 4.5 to 60ºC). This is the range in which bacteria like Salmonella, Escherichia coli, Campylobacter jejuni, Listeria monocytogenes and Staphylococcus aureus can easily multiply, increasing the likelihood of food poisoning.
“If the pathogens are present when meat is ground, then more of the meat surface is exposed to the harmful bacteria,” the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) notes. Furthermore, “grinding allows any bacteria present on the surface to be mixed throughout the meat.” Unfortunately, cooking doesn’t necessarily kill off all of these bacterial strains, and, as is the case with most proteins, including chicken and turkey, the best way to reduce the risk of food poisoning is to keep the meat out of the danger zone by safely thawing it and then cooking it properlyThere are only three thawing methods the USDA recommends: in the fridge, in a bowl of cold water, or in the microwave, but there are a number of common unsanctioned methods commonly used by home cooks, as well.
How We TestedTo determine the best way to thaw ground beef, I tested the three USDA-approved methods outlined above, along with two questionable but common practices: at room temperature and under running water in the sink. I recorded how long each method took and, using an instant-read thermometer, logged the temperature of the beef at various intervals throughout the process to determine if the meat ever hit the danger zone.
As Kenji, Serious Eats culinary director emeritus and food science whiz, has written previously, flattening food before freezing can speed up both the process of freezing and thawing, as it maximizes the ratio of surface area to volume. With this in mind, I tested each of the defrosting methods with two one-pound sets of ground beef: one set that I flattened into one centimeter discs and another that I froze in 3 1/2 by 3 1/2 by 2-inch blocks, which is similar to how ground beef is packaged and sold at most US grocery stores. After measuring the 10 one-pound portions and placing them in tightly sealed zip-top bags, I froze them until solid before proceeding with my defrosting tests. For each method, I only opened the sealed bags to check the temperature of the meat at various thawing intervals.
The Most Common Methods for Thawing Ground Beef: TestedRefrigeratorMethod
I set the frozen flat-packed ground beef and block of ground beef on a rimmed baking sheet (to collect any leaking juices), then placed them in the fridge until they were fully thawed.
How Safe Is It?
Defrosting in the fridge is the most hands-off way to thaw ground beef. According to Meredith Carothers, a food safety specialist with the USDA, it’s also the safest, provided that your fridge is calibrated to consistently maintain a temperature below 40ºF (4ºC), as this guarantees that the meat will never reach danger zone temperatures. (If your fridge is not properly calibrated, all of the perishable food in it will be in the danger zone, which is why we recommend using a backup thermometer to be sure your fridge's internal thermometer is accurate.) Once defrosted in the fridge, ground beef can be safely stored for an additional three to five days, according to the USDA.
The Results
Of all the methods I tested, defrosting in the fridge took the longest: the flattened package took almost 20 hours to thaw, while the block took about 24 hours to thaw.
MicrowaveMethod
If your microwave has a “defrost” setting, the USDA recommends using that setting to thaw ground beef. To defrost ground beef in the microwave, I removed the frozen beef from its packaging, placed it on a microwave-safe plate, then thawed it using my microwave’s “defrost” setting. If your microwave doesn’t have this setting, you should defrost your food at 30% power to prevent the ground beef from beginning to cook during defrosting. The USDA also recommends rotating and flipping the meat throughout the process to ensure even thawing, and suggests using a spoon or spatula to remove thawed portions of the meat to help the remaining beef thaw more easily.
The time it takes to defrost meat in the microwave will depend on your microwave’s wattage. I tested in my 1200W microwave, which has a defrost setting specifically for meat; according to the manufacturer, the microwave alternates between 20 to 30% power to “ensure even thawing” of the meat.
How Safe Is It?
The microwave is one of just two rapid defrosting methods the USDA recommends. However, food thawed this way must be cooked immediately after it's defrosted since the microwave kickstarts the cooking process.
Results
Of the five methods I tested, the microwave was by far the fastest. The flat-packed package defrosted three minutes faster than the block. However, the meat was much more unevenly thawed, with the edges beginning to cook while the center remained frozen. The texture was also much drier after I cooked the ground beef. Though the block of frozen meat took slightly longer, it thawed more evenly—and had fewer spots begin to cook. Defrosting in the microwave is an option if you're in a pinch, but if you have time, we definitely recommend the fridge method over this one.
Cold WaterMethod
I submerged each of the packages of frozen beef in a bowl of cold tap water. According to Carothers, cold tap water in the approximate range of 55 to 65ºF (12 to 18ºC) is fine for defrosting as long as you cook the meat immediately after defrosting. It’s essential to change the water every 30 minutes in order to ensure it stays in the recommended temperature range and to keep the thawing process moving. As the beef thaws, the water surrounding it will become cooler, eventually becoming cold enough to hamper the defrosting process. It’s also crucial that the bag is fully sealed to prevent any water from entering the package of meat.
How Safe Is It?
The USDA considers thawing in cold water to be a safe method, as long as you change the water every 30 minutes and cook the meat immediately after thawing.
Results
The flat-packed ground beef defrosted in just 30 minutes—which meant that I didn’t even have to change the water. The block of beef, on the other hand, took an hour and 15 minutes. The flattened beef also thawed much more evenly; using an instant-read thermometer, I took the temperature of the beef and only saw 5ºF (2ºC) difference between the center of the package and its edges. Conversely, the block’s edges reached 50.5ºF (10.2ºC) after an hour, but remained 29ºF (-1.7ºC) at the core.
Running WaterMethod
Many home cooks and professionals place packaged frozen foods under a running faucet to speed up the defrosting time, but it is not a USDA-approved method—plus, it wastes water and inconveniently occupies the sink for a substantial amount of time. This method is also not substantially faster than the cold water method outlined above. Though the flat pack was done thawing in 25 minutes—five minutes faster than in the bowl of water—the block took an hour and 22 minutes to defrost, longer than the cold water in the bowl.
How Safe Is It?
This method is not endorsed by the USDA and we do not recommend it, as it is as loud as running a vacuum cleaner, a waste of water, and not particularly faster than other methods.
Results
Room TemperatureMethod
I placed the two packages of frozen beef on separate rimmed baking sheets on my kitchen counter and let them sit at 74ºF (23ºC) until thawed. Using an instant-read thermometer, I took the temperature of the beef approximately every 10 minutes to ensure that food wasn’t sitting in the danger zone.
How Safe Is It?
The USDAdoes not recommend this method, and the two food safety experts I spoke with—Carothers and Catherine Nettles Cutter, a food science professor at Penn State University—advised against thawing meat at room temperature. This is because your food is likely to hit the danger zone, which increases the risk of foodborne illnesses. According to the USDA, food should not sit in the danger zone for longer than two hours—one hour if the space is above 90ºF (32ºC).
Though I did not sicken myself with my tests, eating food that has been thawed improperly is especially dangerous for at-risk populations, including pregnant people, children under the age of five, people who are aged 65 or older , or those who are immunocompromised.
Results
The flat-packed meat defrosted in just over an hour and a half and never reached the danger zone. The block of frozen meat, however, took a little over three hours—twice as long as the flat-packed beef—and the outer edges of the meat hit the danger zone for about 10 minutes before I refrigerated it.
What Is the Fastest Way to Defrost Beef?The microwave is the fastest: The appliance fully thawed both the flattened package and block of ground beef in just 10 minutes. However, this method did not thaw the meat consistently, and the edges of the beef cooked before the center could even thaw. Because this method jumpstarts the cooking method, you must cook the beef immediately after thawing it in the microwave. Thawing your beef in a bowl of cold water is also a good option if you’re in a hurry, but you will have to change the water every 30 minutes to maintain its temperature.
Which Method for Defrosting Ground Beef Produced the Best Results Overall?While defrosting in the fridge takes the longest, it is the safest and most hands-off way to thaw ground beef. And unlike the microwave other methods, thawing in the fridge allows you to safely store the ground beef for an additional two days in the fridge once it's thawed. It also has no negative impact on the texture of the beef, unlike the microwave method. For that reason, we recommend thawing ground beef in the fridge if you are able to plan ahead and have the time to spare.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBaking-heavy holidays like Thanksgiving can be overwhelming affairs: You’ve got to cook a show-stopping centerpiece like turkey or rib roast, prep all the sides, and—depending on the size of your celebration—make several pies. While many of us aspire to make pie crust from scratch, sometimes you simply do not have the time or bandwidth, which is where ready-made pie dough comes in. Even as an avid baker and food professional who keeps homemade pie dough in my freezer, I reach for a frozen crust from time to time. With plenty of store-bought options to choose from, there’s no need to stress about making your own dough from scratch when you've got a lot of other things on your mind and in your oven. But even if you aren't making a homemade pie crust, you want to be sure the crust you’re using is sturdy enough to hold your pie filling and tastes great.
To find out which frozen pie doughs and shells are worth buying, we pulled together nine different pie crusts you’re likely to find in your local supermarket, baked and filled them with pumpkin pie filling (using the same pie filling for each one), and sampled them without knowing which crust was which. Our tests included pre-rolled dough that you have to thaw and shape into your own pie pan, as well as raw shells pre-shaped and sold inside a tin. After tasting our way through nine freshly made pies, we then stored each for a day in the fridge to see how well they held up. After this slightly queasy-making but overall very fun two-day pie-eating contest, we tabulated the results and crowned an overall winner we’d be happy to invite to our own Thanksgiving celebrations, as well as a few other worthy contenders.
The CriteriaPie crust should be crisp and flaky, with a pleasant buttery flavor. It should have a slight hint of salt but not be overly salty, nor should it be overly sweet. It should be just tender enough to give way when bitten into, but not so soft that it crumbles at the slightest touch. The best pie crusts should also be sturdy enough to withstand the weight and moisture of any pie filling, be it custard, fruit, or syrupy nuts. In an ideal world, pie crust should be so delicious that you’d want to nibble away at the edges of the pie when you think nobody is looking.
Overall Winner: Trader Joe’s Pie CrustsOur tasters enjoyed both the flavor and texture of Trader Joe’s pie crust, which is found in the freezer section as a pre-rolled dough that you press into a pan before baking. Our associate editorial director, Megan O. Steintrager, thought it was “mild and buttery,” while Doan Nguyen, photo editor at Food and Wine—with whom we share office space in NYC—described its flavor as having “a nice balance with salt and butter.” The crust was flaky and had good structural integrity; one of our tasters called it a “workhorse crust.” It also held up well the next day, making it a good pre-rolled dough to reach for if you plan on traveling with your pie or preparing it a day in advance. At just $4.49, this crust is both delicious and affordable, and one we'd gladly use for our own pies.
Runners UpThe Best Convenient Pie Crust: Wholly Wholesome Organic Traditional 9” Pie Shells“Solid, crumbly, but not structurally inconsistent,” our Food and Wine colleague Dylan Garret wrote of this pie shell. “Pie handle works well as a pie handle and did not break,” he wrote, referring to how you could pick up a slice by the edge of the crust without it breaking and sending your pie onto the floor. Our associate visuals director, Amanda Suarez, thought this dough tasted “pleasant,” and others thought it was buttery, subtly sweet, and delicious enough to eat on its own. This dough contains just five ingredients—organic wheat flour, organic palm fruit shortening, water, organic cane sugar, and sea salt—making it one of the crusts with the fewest ingredients used if that's a selling point for you. Interestingly, there is zero butter, despite the fact that more than one taster made notes of its buttery flavor.
Like our overall winner, this crust held up nicely the next day, and though slightly softened, still maintained its shape and bite. Because this is a pre-shaped pie shell, there’s zero crimping or shaping involved, making it a convenient option to reach for if you’re in a pinch but still want a flaky, tasty dough.
An Affordable but Delicious Option: Boston Baking Homestyle 9-Inch Pie ShellsThis frozen pie shell was tender and crumbly; this was Megan’s favorite—she thought it was buttery, albeit “ever so slightly artificial tasting.” Similarly, Amanda described this as “nice and buttery,” noting that it “feels like what a pie crust is.” Some tasters, however, thought it was slightly sandy and dry. With just five ingredients, Boston Baking’s pie shells (along with Wholly Wholesome’s pie shells) had the shortest ingredient list of all the doughs we sampled, and contained just flour, butter, water, sugar, and salt. (Note to Megan: Nothing artificial here, so we are not sure what you were tasting!) Though this pie crust was slightly softer the next day, it still held up reasonably well. At $4.79, Boston Baking is a delicious pie shell that’s also budget-friendly.
The Flakiest Pie Dough: Wholly Wholesome Organic Traditional Pie DoughEvery single taster noted how flaky Wholly Wholesome’s pre-rolled dough was. Megan found it “flaky to the point of being crumbly,” while Amanda thought it was a bit too flaky for her liking. But if a crisp pie crust with plenty of layers is what you’re after, this is your best bet. Though some tasters thought this dough had a slightly bitter flavor, others thought it was balanced and buttery.
Wholly Wholesome’s fully shaped and ready-to-bake frozen pie shells covered above have just five ingredients; this dough, which is shaped and ready for you to pop into your own pan, has seven: wheat flour, palm fruit shortening, water, cane syrup, salt, cane sugar, and guar gum. Once again, not a single ounce of butter in sight. Due to its extreme flakiness, this crust did not hold up well when stored with filling inside, instead crumbling easily when pressed the next day. If you plan on using this pre-rolled dough, we recommend enjoying your pie the day it’s made—unless a soggy bottom is what you’re after. At $8.69, this was the most expensive pie dough we sampled.
The Contenders* Trader Joe’s Pie Crusts $4.49 * Wholly Wholesome Organic Traditional 9” Pie Shells $7.99 * Wholly Wholesome Organic Traditional Pie Dough $8.69 * Boston Baking Homestyle Pie Shells $4.79 * Stop & Shop Pie Crust Deep Dish 9-Inch $4.99 * Marie Callender’s Pastry Pie Shells $6.39 * 365 by Whole Foods Frozen Pie Dough $5.99 * Pillsbury Refrigerated Pie Crust $5.29 * Pillsbury Frozen Pie Crust, Deep Dish, Two 9-Inch $5.99
In ConclusionWhile our winners could pass for homemade—yes, by a good baker!—some of the crusts we tasted had stale or even rancid notes, with some that were either too tough, crispy, and borderline chewy. Overall, our favorite pie crusts were those that were able to strike a balance between flavor and texture: They were all delicious, both crisp and tender, and contained seven ingredients or fewer. Though our tasters had a preference for crusts with what they perceived as a buttery flavor, three out of our four top picks contained shortening instead of butter, and our winner had both butter and shortening. Unlike many of the other pie crusts we tasted, our winners did not contain preservatives, food coloring, soybean oil, or dough conditioners. In other words: Our favorite pie crusts all contained ingredients that we’d likely reach for in our own homes when preparing dough.
Our Testing MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted with brands completely hidden and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample 1 first, while taster B will taste sample 6 first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill our tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation of actual results possible.
Serious Eats/Russell KilgoreFor those just starting their espresso journey, there’s a lot of gear to consider. Choosing the best espresso machine for your needs is a must, along with purchasing an espresso grinder. Fun demitasse cups and espresso beans are also obvious choices. But tamping, which is arguably the most important step in espresso brewing, is routinely overlooked.
“The purpose of tamping is twofold: firstly, to compress the grounds tightly together, and secondly, to create a bed of grounds of consistent depth and levelness,” explains Madeline Jones, account manager and trainer at Rare Breed Coffee. Proper tamping ensures that the pressurized water exerted by the espresso machine flows through the grounds evenly. “If the grounds are not compressed enough, the spaces between the grounds will be inconsistent in size,” Jones says. “This allows water to flow more quickly through some areas of the bed of grounds and more slowly through others, which affects how much flavor is pulled from the grounds.”
Many home espresso machines come pre-packaged with a tamper. Often, they’re made from flimsy plastic and don’t properly fit the portafilter. If you want a good tamper, you’re going to have to buy it separately. I took on the task of finding the best ones, testing a few different styles at a variety of price points.
The Winners, at a GlanceThis high-end tamper is a favorite among home baristas for good reason: It’s stylish, sturdy, ergonomically designed, and pleasantly weighty. Best of all, the handle length is adjustable. It’s pricey, but with a simple device like a tamper, the little details matter and the Pullman BigStep gets everything right.
Calibrated, spring-loaded tampers apply consistent pressure by just pushing in the handle. The Normcore’s build quality is top-notch with a modern, matte black finish and a sturdy, ergonomic, tapered handle. It includes multiple calibrated springs that allow you to adjust the pressure.
We’ve recommended this tamper before. The two-in-one leveler and tamper delivers perfectly leveled coffee and takes a lot of the guesswork out of the tamping process. For the coffee nerds out there, you can still tweak the depth of the tamp and the leveler using the internal threading mechanism to dial things in as precisely as you’d like.
This tamper from LuxHaus provides a more affordable alternative to the Pullman BigStep, but sacrifices very little in terms of build quality or design. It’s hefty and sturdy with a handle design that makes it comfortable to use. In our tests, it produced consistent results, with level pucks, no channeling, and delicious espresso.
The TestsSerious Eats / Russell Kilgore Build Quality Test: While using each tamper, I assessed its build quality, noting its dimensions, shape, materials, and weight. * Tamping Test: I used each tamper to tamp and then brew a shot of espresso, weighing the grounds pre-tamping to ensure consistency from model to model. I noted how long it took to pull the shot and whether the water flowed through the portafilter at the right rate. I also taste-tasted each shot. * Back-to-Back Shot Test: Following all of the same parameters as the above tamping test, I tamped and pulled back-to-back shots using my winning tampers. I wanted to see if they could deliver the same results every time. * Ergonomics Test: I noted how easy each tamper was to use and how comfortable it was in my hands. Though not likely to happen at home, injuries of the wrist and hand are not unheard of among professional baristas due to the repetitive motion of tamping. An ergonomically designed handle helps prevent this. * Cleanup Test:* For the most part, cleaning tampers is a simple matter of wiping dry coffee grounds off of the base, but when testing, I noted any design nuances or flaws that made cleaning more difficult.
What We LearnedConsistency Was EverythingWe liked this palm tamper because it was super consistent.Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreTamping is one of the most crucial variables in brewing espresso and by far the easiest step to mess up. The best tampers consistently and uniformly level and compress pucks every time. Any models that are cumbersome or don’t fit the portafilter well can lead to an uneven tamp and poor extraction. For example, tampers with uncomfortable handles made it more difficult to evenly apply pressure to the portafilter, which sometimes leads to channeling. Spring-loaded tampers avoid this by having a lip that keeps the tamper level with the portafilter’s walls.
Which Tampers Had the Best Build Quality? All of our favorite tampers had stainless steel components, which bodes well for their longevity.Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreIf used regularly, a tamper is going to be subjected to a lot of force and needs to be able to hold up. The handle receives most of the pressure, so make sure to choose one that’s solid and sturdy. During my testing, I found that the best tampers had stainless steel bases. Not only did they have significant weight to them, which helped with applying the proper amount of pressure, but they were less likely to bend, warp, or break. “What to avoid is plastic or aluminum. They are too flimsy and lightweight,” Jones says.
Tamper Type Is a Matter of PreferenceA spring-loaded tamper (left) and a classic tamper (right).Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreOf the three styles of tampers I tested, each had their own pros and cons. Ultimately, you should decide which works best for your needs and espresso machine, but there here are some things to keep in mind:
- The classic style of tamper is simple. It’s basically a handle attached to a wide cylindrical base and is the most widely used type. Because of its simplicity, it takes a bit of practice to use correctly. You need to make sure the tamper is level with the portafilter and apply the proper amount of pressure (30 to 40 pounds of force) by hand.
- Spring-loaded or calibrated tampers are built with an internal spring that, when compressed, delivers a precise, predetermined amount of pressure. Like a classic tamper, it still needs to be used correctly to get a perfectly level tamp, but it removes the pressure guesswork. However, if used improperly, it’s possible to push past where the spring stops and over-tamp the coffee. With heavy use, the springs can also break or dislodge. Because of their internal springs, calibrated tampers also cannot be washed with water.
- Palm tampers are newer to the home espresso scene. This style works by tamping to a predetermined depth in the portafilter instead of a calibrated pressure, which makes them very consistent. They often have a leveler on one side that helps ensure the grounds are even before tamping. Their tamping depth is adjustable.
Technique Was (and Is) ImportantGet your tamper level with the coffee bed before you start applying pressure.Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreUltimately, no tamper is foolproof. Learning how to use your tamper properly in conjunction with your espresso machine and grinder will help you pull consistently delicious shots. Here are some tips:
- Use proper form to prevent strain injuries. Keep your wrist straight and your elbow bent at about 90 degrees, applying pressure through your shoulder and triceps rather than your wrist.
- Ensure the tamper is level with the coffee bed before applying pressure to avoid uneven extraction.
- Focus on achieving consistent tamping pressure rather than measuring exact pounds, but a good rule of thumb is to shoot for 30 to 40 pounds of pressure per square inch
- If you need to adjust the extraction time, modify the grind size instead of altering tamp pressure.
The Criteria: What to Look for in an Espresso TamperSerious Eats / Russell KilgoreSince they’re used to apply pressure to portafilter baskets, the best tampers are sturdy and have ergonomic handles. Most importantly, the top tampers deliver consistent results time and again.
Our Favorite TampersWhat we liked: The Pullman BigStep tamper is the Ferrari of classic tampers. Its build quality is top-notch and it’s ergonomic, with a great heft and balanced weight distribution. Best of all, it produced consistently tasty espresso over multiple tests. It also has spacers you can use to adjust the length of the handle to suit your needs.
What we didn’t like: At about $130, this tamper is likely to be too expensive for some. But, I wouldn’t recommend it if it was anything less than stellar throughout my testing.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel, rubber, aluminum * Dimensions: 3.5-inch handle (adjustable with spacers); 53.3-millimeter base * Weight: 12.5 ounces * Cleanup:* Wipe down with dry cloth
What we liked: Like most spring-loaded tampers, the Normcore is built with two springs and a lip that applies a steady, consistent amount of pressure every time. It also avoids spring-loaded tamper's biggest weakness: It keeps the grounds level with a lip that fits over the portafilter and prevents the user from pushing past where the spring stops when tamping. The Normcore comes with replacement springs calibrated to 15, 25, and 30 psi so the user can select which pressure works best with their espresso machine.
What we didn’t like: The pressure applied to the ground portafilter is decided by the springs and is not a variable you can control. For some home baristas, that might be a downside, but with a bit of dialing in, the consistency is worth it.
Key Specs Materials: Anodized aluminum handle with stainless steel base * Dimensions: 3.3-inch handle; 53.3-millimeter base * Weight: 1.08 pounds * Cleanup:* Wipe down with dry cloth
What we liked: When it comes to consistency, this style of tamper is as dependable as it gets. This tamper has a distributor tool on one side, which can be used to level the top layer of the ground coffee. Once flattened, just flip the tamper over and press down to compress the grinds into a perfectly leveled puck. For espresso snobs, you can tweak the depth of the tamp and the leveler using the internal threading mechanism.
What we didn’t like: After using standard tampers with handles, palm tampers take a little getting used to. They compress the coffee in the portafilter basket to a specific depth instead of using pressure, so it’s possible to over- or under-tamp if they’re not calibrated properly. Thankfully, once dialed in, it produced the same results every time.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel and sturdy plastic * Dimensions: 2.75-inch diameter by 2-inch height, 53.3-millimeter base * Weight: 1.19 pounds * Cleanup:* Wipe down with dry cloth
What we liked: For an affordable tamper, I recommend the LuxHaus. The handle is well-shaped and feels sturdy and comfortable. Throughout my tamping tests, it created consistent, level pucks that pulled delicious espresso shots.
What we didn’t like: Although performing well, the weight distribution felt a little off, though it’s only noticeable when comparing the LuxHaus side-by-side with other tampers.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel, hard plastic * Dimensions: 4-inch handle; 53.3-millimeter base * Weight: 14.4 ounces * Cleanup:* Wipe down with dry cloth
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonThe Competition* The Force Tamper: This spring-loaded tamper worked well in my tests, but at nearly five times the price of our top pick, I didn’t notice a marked performance improvement. * MATOW Coffee Distributor & Tamper: Almost identical to the top palm pick, the MATOW tamper performed similarly, but I found the Crema was slightly easier to adjust properly. * IKAPE Espresso Tamper: Much like the Normcore tamper, IKAPE’s double spring-loaded produces even, level pucks of espresso. The Normcore performed slightly better in subsequent taste tests, but this tamper is a solid alternative. * Rhino Coffee Gear Black Tamper: Though sturdy, I found the handle on this Rhino tamper to be cumbersome and top-heavy. * FusedLine Sage Barista Tamper: This solid stainless steel tamper is built to last, but the handle was short and awkward to hold. * CreativeWerk Espresso Tamper: I loved the ergonomic wooden handle on this one, but the weight distribution felt bottom-heavy. It would be a great fit aesthetically in certain kitchens.
FAQsShould you tamp twice? If done properly, tamping twice is unnecessary. “Definitely don’t tamp, knock the side of the portafilter with the tamper, and tamp again,” Jones explains. “Not only are you disturbing the evenly distributed coffee bed, you risk damaging the portafilter and tamper in the process.”
What size of espresso tamper should you buy? Different espresso machines require different sizes of tampers. The size of the portafilter basket determines what size of tamper you need. “It is important to match the tamper to the grouphead, otherwise it won’t fit or will be too small to properly compact the coffee grounds evenly,” Jones explains.
Should you twist while tamping? No, twisting can disrupt the grounds and cause an uneven bed. “Twisting while applying pressure creates sheared layers inside the portafilter,” Jones explains. “The goal of tamping is to remove air pockets and create a uniform bed of coffee.”
Why We’re the Experts* Dylan Ettinger is a Serious Eats contributor who specializes in coffee, spirits, cocktails, and barware. With over a decade of experience in the specialty coffee industry, he has spent the last four years testing and reviewing coffee grinders, espresso machines, pour-over cones, and other home coffee appliances for a variety of publications. * For this piece, he combined his experience in the coffee industry with that of Madeline Jones, account manager and trainer at Rare Breed Coffee, in order to determine what qualities make the best espresso tamper. * Dylan tested 10 espresso tampers for this review.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMany years ago, I set out to create my vision of the perfect Italian-American meatball. I had a clear idea of the qualities I wanted. My meatballs needed to be supremely tender yet cohesive, deeply flavorful, and so juicy they'd weep literal meaty tears. The result was everything I wanted, but it was also an undertaking to make, involving both a stand mixer and hand mixing, and ingredients like fatty minced pancetta and gelled meat stock (an idea I stole from Chinese soup dumplings). Clearly, those were not weeknight-friendly meatballs.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSome years later, I worked on a spaghetti with meatballs recipe, which I based heavily on my ultimate meatballs, with some careful edits to make them just a bit easier (ahem, no gelled stock this time). Still, I had a clear goal in mind, including a meatball-infused tomato sauce that delivered more flavor in each forkful of pasta, whether a meatball was speared on the tines or not. It was an easier version tailor-made for pasta night, but it still required a little more than what might be described as minimal effort.
Here's what's always been missing: A simplified recipe for weeknight meatballs in tomato sauce that comes together quickly but is still packed with flavor and has a pleasingly tender texture. With this recipe, I'm fixing that.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe good news is that even without the more elaborate tricks of my first two recipes, this one still comes mighty close in the results department thanks to the a handful of core techniques that are essential to the best meatballs.
Choosing the MeatDifferent meats offer different qualities to a meatball, which means a blend is generally best. In my prior meatball recipe testing, I found that beef makes for a springier, more flavorful meatball compared to pork, but if you use too much beef, the result is a little too tight and dense. Veal, meanwhile, is the most expensive of the three and the hardest to get, but it's a great contributor of gelatin to meatballs, which can enhance their overall juiciness.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBecause these are easy weeknight meatballs, I'm not going to force you in any one direction. If you can only get one kind of ground meat, make it pork. If you can manage to get your hands on pork and beef, get both, using 1 pound pork for every 1/2 pound of beef. And if you want to go all out and get veal as well, just split the three evenly in thirds—so 1/2 pound each.
And look, while I didn't write it into my recipe below because the results just aren't as flavorful and juicy, no one is stopping you from using ground turkey instead, if that's your preference. It'll still work.
The Right Bread for the JobMeatball recipes fall into two general camps: some made with a filler of soaked fresh bread and others with soaked dried breadcrumbs. In all my tests over many years, a fresh bread filler has always proven itself to be superior to breadcrumbs.
It's important to understand that while we use the term "filler" in English, the bread does more than just act as an economical way to stretch the meat—it fundamentally changes the texture of the meatballs for the better. But fresh bread, I've found, produces a much juicier and more tender meatball than one made from breadcrumbs, which takes the meatballs in a much denser, dried direction (even after soaking the breadcrumbs!).
In my ultimate meatball recipe, I soak the bread with buttermilk for a subtle infusion of more complex, fermented flavor. Here, I keep it simple with plain old milk. You'll hardly notice the difference.
Ingredient DecisionsI made a couple important changes to my ingredient list in this recipe. First, I eliminated the pancetta to help you avoid having to shop for it and mince it by hand, which can add to the prep time. The pancetta adds both fat (for juiciness) and a subtle cured-pork flavor, but these meatballs are just fine without it.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe other alteration to this recipe's ingredients is up to you: The recipe below calls for either fresh onion and garlic or dry onion and garlic powder. The nice thing about using fresh is that you get some more texture in the meatballs—tiny little pops of crisp-tender onion along with a more well-rounded onion and garlic flavor. But switch to the powders and not only do you save time, you still get very good onion and garlic flavor in the meatballs. There are enough other ingredients in the mix, from cheese to spices and parsley, that you're not going to notice a jarring difference in flavor between fresh and dried.
As for me personally, if I'm making these on a weeknight to feed my family, I'm going with onion and garlic powder almost every time.
Simplified MixingAnother more complicated technique in my ultimate meatballs recipe involves how I mixed all the ingredients together, starting with the high-powered churn of a stand mixer to combine all of the seasonings and soaked bread with a small portion of the meat. This powerful mixing not only incorporates all the elements together efficiently and completely, but also encourages the meat proteins and fats to bond and adhere to each other for a more bouncy, sausage-like texture. Since I didn't want my ultimate meatballs to be too springy, I withheld some ground meat to then be worked in more gently by hand, mixing it well but avoiding that sausage effect.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe results were meatballs with a nice bounce but also a loose and tender structure that could be scooped through easily with the side of a spoon.
In this recipe, I eliminate all of that, opting instead for some good old-fashioned by-hand mixing of everything. You won't get the efficiency of the stand mixer, nor the supreme tenderness of the subsequent gentle hand mixing, but instead something right in the middle—bouncy and tender and perfectly delicious.
Cooking MethodsOnce again, I've opted for ease in this recipe, which means broiling the meatballs to quickly brown them and partially cook them, before transferring them to a pot of tomato sauce to simmer until fully done. Could you fry the meatballs in oil instead? Absolutely, it'll just take longer and be messier.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezeThe nice thing about adding this recipe to my stable of meatball recipes is it makes it that much easier for you to choose your own path, whether that means adding the pancetta back in, frying instead of broiling the meatballs, or something else. Just look at my various versions and figure out your own personal take from there.
Preheat broiler and set oven rack about 4 inches from broiler element; line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment or foil. In a large mixing bowl, combine bread with milk, tossing to coat. Let stand, tossing occasionally, until bread is completely moist, about 10 minutes. Squeeze bread between your fingers or mash with a spoon to make sure there are no dry spots.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd onion, garlic, Parmigiano-Reggiano, egg yolks, parsley, salt, pepper, oregano, and fennel to bread mixture and, using a clean hand or spoon, stir until very thoroughly incorporated. Add ground meat and, using your hand, continue mixing vigorously, squishing meat and seasonings between your fingers, until very thoroughly combined and meat has taken on a slightly sticky texture.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing your hands, roll meatballs to your desired size and arrange, evenly spaced, on prepared baking sheet.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer to broiler and cook until browned on top, about 10 minutes (broiling time will vary greatly depending on the strength of your broiler, so keep a close eye). Using tongs, rotate meatballs and broil until well browned on second side.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large sauté pan or pot, combine meatballs and any accumulated juices with tomato sauce and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook, spooning sauce over meatballs and rotating meatballs occasionally, until meatballs are fully cooked through and register about 145°F (63°C) on an instant-read thermometer, 5 to 10 minutes. Serve, sprinkling additional grated cheese on each plate.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNotesTry to get fattier ground meat, if possible; around 25% fat is a good rough percentage. This amount of fat will make for juicier and more flavorful meatballs than lean ground meat will.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile I make it a point to soak up every ounce of daylight in the summer, come fall, I quickly transition into a homebody. Sure, nature is beautiful, but I can watch the leaves change color from the window in my living room where it’s warm and cozy. Along with the chillier weather, fall's shorter days also contribute to me spending more time at home, where I naturally gravitate to the kitchen.
Instead of quickly cooking up a bowl of pasta or a slab of protein for dinner, I’m more inclined to spend a few extra minutes preparing a well rounded meal that includes an actual side dish. A meal with more than one dish? What a concept! The side dishes we're featuring here highlight the bounty of hearty produce available during the fall—we've got your carrots, mushrooms, and, of course, cauliflower and broccoli. Plus, they are incredibly easy to put together. The recipes below, such as Caesar roasted broccoli, air-fried Brussels sprouts, and sweet and spicy roasted carrots, can be quickly assembled and then cooked mostly hands off in the air fryer, oven, or stovetop while you prepare your main course. These easy fall side dishes are just what you need to complete your meal and enjoy a little extra time—but just a little, we promise—in your kitchen.
Crispy Air-Fryer BroccoliSerious Eats /Make crisp, tender air-fryer broccoli with our basic recipe. It’s great as-is—or dressed up with our five easy, delicious variations.
Air-Fryer Green BeansSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeHere's a simple, hearty vegetable side dish that you can toss together in minutes—as long as you have fresh green beans and your air fryer on hand.
20 Minute Air-Fryer CauliflowerSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeCooking cauliflower in the air fryer isn’t complicated, but with our tips and tricks, you can guarantee flavorful, crisp, and tender results every time.
Grilled or Roasted Carrots With Sweet Soy GlazeSerious Eats / Robby LozanoCook your carrots until tender, then brush them with a glaze of honey and soy to highlight their natural sweetness.
Braised Leeks With Chile Bean SauceSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThanks to a few powerhouse Sichuan ingredients, this speedy sauce tastes like it took hours to make.
Sweet-Spicy Glazed CarrotsSasha MarxTo tame the sweetness of these Korean banchan-inspired glazed carrots, we burn the honey and spike the sauce with chile pepper, ginger, and a splash of vinegar.
Vegetarian Stuffed MushroomsSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeThese vegetarian stuffed mushrooms pack a lot of flavor into a small package, hitting savory, sweet, and umami notes all at once.
Caesar Roasted BroccoliSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezIt's a simple as it sounds: Dress up sweet and nutty roasted broccoli with savory, crisp Caesar-flavored breadcrumbs.
Air-Fryer Brussels Sprouts With Preserved Lemon–Caesar DressingSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis Brussels sprouts side dish is a festival of flavor and texture.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyWith a top coating of melted butter and a sprinkling of sea salt, fluffy, golden Parker House rolls are nothing short of trophy worthy. They’re arguably America’s favorite dinner roll, but before these buttery, glossy rolls were a mainstay on restaurant tables nationwide, they were a regional favorite from Boston, Massachusetts. They owe their name to Boston's famed Parker House Hotel, where they were created. The hotel has been a bastion of hospitality since 1856, and the rolls were added to their menu just a few years later in the 1870s and remain on their menu today, according to the hotel's website. At the time in the US when these rolls were first served, most other widely available breads were hard and crusty, so these pillowy soft, lightly sweet, butter-loaded dinner rolls were a standout revelation that eventually caught on in restaurants nationwide.
These classic yeast rolls, also sometimes called pocketbook rolls because their folded shape resembles a purse, are just as ideal for sandwiching a slice of Thanksgiving turkey or holiday ham as they are slathered with honey or a slick of jam for breakfast. And while Parker House rolls have taken over restaurant tables nationwide, there's no reason that baskets full of these warm, tender rolls should be confined to restaurants, especially since baking them at home is relatively easy. To perfect the foolproof recipe we're sharing here, our test kitchen colleague Nicole Hopper shaped and baked batch after batch of these rolls. Here are a few tips for perfecting the soft dough and their signature shape at home.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyKey Techniques for Buttery Soft Parker House RollsEnrich the dough with butter, milk, and egg for the Parker House roll's signature plushness. In the world of breads, there are two basic categories: lean and enriched. Lean breads such as French bread and hard rolls have a chewier texture with more bite and a hard crust, while enriched ones such as brioche and challah, are, well, richer. Parker House rolls sit firmly in the enriched bread category. Hopper relies on a trio of butter, milk, and egg to enrich the rolls, ensuring they are tender and fluffy once baked. The fat in all three ingredients coats the gluten strands and makes both the crumb and the crust more tender; it also makes the interior texture more finely grained, so when you cut or pull the rolls apart, you are guaranteed a smooth surface for smearing with butter. Beyond texture, the fat and proteins in all three ingredients adds rich flavor to the rolls.
Proof properly to create the hallmark shape. Getting Parker House rolls to hold their signature shape is notoriously challenging. When portioned and folded, glutinous dough is prone to springing back to its original shape, as well as over-puffing and losing its shape when baked. The result in either case will be misshapen blob-like rolls.
The first step to ensure this doesn’t happen is to properly proof the dough. Well proofed dough will hold its form when shaped and baked. You can gauge if dough is properly proofed by time or how much the dough grows, but the best way to check is with the knuckle test. Use the back of your knuckle to gently press into the dough: If the dough immediately springs back, it is not fully proofed yet; if the dough holds the shape of the indent and doesn’t spring back at all, it’s over-proofed; but if the dough slowly springs back into its original shape, it is ready to shape into rolls. Properly proofed dough will not only hold its shape after you fold the raw dough, but it will rise in the oven at a steady rate, guaranteeing it holds its shape once baked.
Roll the buns for easier shaping and better baking. First rolling the buns into a ball (as with standard dinner rolls) redistributes the yeast and sugars and removes any large bubbles of carbon dioxide that might create an irregular crumb when baked. Once rolled, it’s also important to let the dough balls rest for ten minutes before flattening them. This brief rest after rolling relaxes their gluten so they won’t spring back once flattened.
Butter before folding to secure the fold. Once each roll is flattened, but beforethey’re folded, brush their flattened tops with ample melted butter. The butter here not only adds another layer of incredible rich flavor, but it acts as a glue, binding the layers of dough together once it's folded and pressed into itself, further guaranteeing the buns will hold their folded shape.
For softer buns, snuggle them together when baking. Buttered and folded, the last key step to ensure the rolls bake up properly is to tuck them closely next to each other, flat side down, in a baking dish. When baked close together, the rolls will press into each other, further anchoring their shape. Baking them close together also traps in their steam as they bake, which softens the dough, further ensuring pillowy buns.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyDon’t forget the buttery finish to create a beautiful gloss. Ok, so you’ve added ample butter to the dough when mixing and you’ve brushed even more butter between the folds of each bun before shaping—that should be plenty of butter, right? Wrong! Take it a step further, and give those buns a buttery shellac while they are fresh and warm right out of the oven. This final buttery glaze will soften the crust and create their restaurant-worthy glossy sheen. A final sprinkle of good flaky sea salt balances their sweetness.
And while they’re delightfully buttery as is, don’t be shy—go ahead and rip one apart and slather it with even more butter for the richest possible roll experience.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyFor the Dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together flour, yeast, and salt until combined. In medium bowl or 2-cup liquid measuring cup, whisk milk, sugar, egg, and egg yolk until combined. Set mixer bowl into stand mixer base and fit mixer with dough hook. On medium-low speed, slowly pour in the liquid mixture until dough comes together and no dry flour remains, about 2 minutes, scraping down bowl and dough hook frequently. Increase speed to medium and, with mixer running, add 4 tablespoons butter, 1 piece at a time, allowing each piece to incorporate before adding next, about 2 minutes total, scraping down bowl and dough hook as needed. Continue to knead on medium speed until dough is elastic, sticky, and pulls away cleanly from sides of bowl, about 10 minutes longer.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyTransfer dough to a lightly greased large bowl. Cover with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel and set aside to proof at room temperature until about doubled in size and, about 60 to 90 minutes. (Dough is properly proofed when it slowly springs back to its original shape when gently pressed with your knuckle).
Serious Eats / Fred HardyPunch down dough and turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Divide dough into 15 even portions (about 2.25 ounces; 65g each). Working with 1 dough portion at a time, cup dough with your palm and roll against counter into a smooth, tight ball. Cover balls loosely with a clean towel or greased plastic wrap and let rest for 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyWorking with one dough ball at a time, gently stretch dough into a rough rectangular shape, about 2 inches wide by 5 inches long. Brush the top side with a generous layer of melted butter and fold dough in half over itself, stretching the top half slightly over the edge of the bottom half to create a square that measures roughly 2 inches x 2 inches. Transfer to a buttered 9- x 13-inch baking pan, flat side down. Repeat with remaining dough balls, arranging folded dough squares into pan in 3 rows of 5.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyCover pan with a kitchen towel or loosely with a piece of greased plastic wrap and proof at room temperature until rolls are puffed but not quite doubled in size, and dough springs back slowly with poked, about 45 minutes.
- For Finishing the Rolls: While buns proof, adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F (175℃). When ready to bake, in a small bowl, beat egg and water until smooth. Using a pastry brush, brush the tops of the rolls evenly with the egg wash. Bake until golden brown and an instant read thermometer inserted in center of rolls registers 190℉ (87℃), 20 to 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyImmediately brush hot rolls with reserved melted butter and sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Let cool slightly, about 20 minutes, before serving warm. Or let cool completely in pan on a wire rack, about 1 hour, to serve at room temperature.
Serious Eats / Fred HardySpecial EquipmentStand-mixer with dough hook, pastry brush, 9- x 13-inch baking dish
Make-Ahead and StorageThe baked rolls can be stored covered at room temperature for 1 day. To refresh them before serving, wrap them in aluminum foil and heat them in a 350°F (175℃) oven until warmed through, about 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezShow me a person who hasn't seen the viral juggernaut that is spaghetti all'assassina, and I will show you a person who's probably been resting...six feet under. Its most recent boost in international fame can be attributed to being featured on an episode of Stanley Tucci's 2022 CNN show, Searching for Italy, but it's not a particularly new pasta dish. Most accounts place its creation sometime in the late 60s by the chef Enzo Francavilla at a restaurant in the capital city of Bari in Puglia—you know, the heel of the boot.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI'll admit, there are some interesting things about this pasta, its unorthodox preparation method high among them, but I'm also going to go out on a limb and wager that the thing that has most captured the minds of digital scrollers has little to do with what it is and more to do with the name. There's a 13-year-old boy living inside each and every one of us who can't help but be enthralled by the idea of ninjas and assassins and mafia hitmen, especially when it's mysteriously tangled in a pile of spaghetti. The words themselves slip off our tongues like a knife slipped into the back of an unsuspecting victim: spaghetti all'assassina.
Most will say that "assassin" refers to the chile heat infused into the tomatoey sauce, delivering a decent punch with each bite, but I'm going to tell you the truth: It should refer to the violence your pan and kitchen will experience when you cook this recipe. And this is where I'm going to break with almost everyone else who has written about this dish before, because as much as I appreciate what spaghetti all'assassina is, I'm going to admit that making it at home is a literal pain in the assassina.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBut that's just me. If you have the mentality of an assassin, you're probably ready to spread plastic tarps all over your kitchen to collect the oily gore and fill buckets with lye to strip the evidence of your wrongdoing from your skillet. In which case, this may just be the perfect dish for you.
What's the Big Deal With This Pasta Anyway?"Butiamo la pasta!" is a common phrase in Italian households, often hollered shortly before dinner. It means, "let's toss the pasta," as in, let's toss the pasta into the water. Think of it as Italy's version of ringing the ol' cowbell, a signal to diners that they should be be ready to eat, because once the pasta goes into the boiling water, it waits for no one.
But when it comes to all'assassina, "butiamo la pasta!" needs to be changed to, "bruciamo la pasta!"—burn the pasta. That's because spaghetti all'assassina, which is sometimes also called spaghetti bruciati ("burnt spaghetti"), is charred and crisped in the pan.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe method involves cooking the pasta in a diluted spicy tomato sauce, the sauce added risotto-style in small increments; in between those additions, the water cooks off and the pasta and sauce are allowed to scorch against the surface of the pan. That's largely what makes this dish interesting, since normally one tries not to burn the pasta.
The finished pasta and sauce are quite different from a traditional plate of spaghetti al pomodoro. It's drier—the unavoidable result of letting enough water in the sauce cook off so the real browning and crisping can occur—and it's oilier, because when you reduce a sauce that much, the oil inevitably breaks out. The pasta itself is in spots soft and tender and in others crispy and blackened. The effect is intriguing, no doubt, and delicious in its own way.
The Challenge of Making "Killer" SpaghettiOne of the first things I did when beginning work on this recipe was find a video of it being made at its origin in the kitchen of Al Sorso Preferito. The cook, capped with a goofy toque that looks like it came straight off the head of Chef Boyardee, is clownishly sloppy, sloshing tomato sauce from a ladle into a huge skillet with little care for whether it stays in the pan or not. Then he raps the ladle against the side of the skillet to shake off excess sauce—directly onto the stovetop—before dropping the spaghetti into the pan, except strands of it fall outside too. The man has turned fucking up the food into an art.
Then I got to work trying to make it myself, and everything about that chef's I-don't-give-crap approach began to make sense, because there's no point even trying to be fastidious when cooking spaghetti all'assassina. Murder is messy business, after all.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLet's start with the spatter. My god, the spatter. To burn the pasta while it's in a sauce, you have to cook it all down over high heat until almost all the water has steamed off. At that point, the tomato sauce and pasta starches begin to fry in pooling oil, then darken, crisp, and scorch. But cooking down a tomato sauce until the oil separates and starts to fry things is not a gentle process. The oil pops and spits as the last isolated remnants of H2O violently explode up and around, spraying your stove, your kitchen, and you with tomato-and-chile-stained grease. The floor under your feet becomes slick, and smoke hangs in the air.
Then there's the pan. I don't care how well seasoned your cast iron is or how perfectly you can fry an egg on your carbon steel—if your goal is to burn pasta and sauce the way one needs to for all'assassina, you are guaranteed to fuse a thick pad of carbonized crud onto the skillet. It will require a long soak followed by scouring with steel wool, and when you're done, you can kiss that years-old patina of perfect seasoning goodbye.
That's all well and good for a restaurant that has all'assassina on the menu. They have a dishwashers with thick rubber gloves pulled up to their elbows who can clean the pans between each order. What you have to do is ask yourself whether you feel like dealing with all this mess in your own kitchen. Some will say yes, so let's proceed to the cooking details.
The Right Tool for the JobMost of the process of making spaghetti all'assassina happens in the pan, so let's talk a little more about the pan. Most say that for a proper all'assassina, you need to use an iron pan. I tested this, cooking batches in carbon steel, stainless steel, and nonstick, and found that my pasta browned and crisped most easily in an iron pan like carbon steel or cast iron. But as I mentioned above, you will pay the price with that pan.
As for stainless steel, it sticks too much, burns too hard, and is the worst of all to clean. I don't recommend it.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThat leaves nonstick. Many say that nonstick is the worst of all options, since the pasta and sauce don't scorch correctly in it. On one level, they're right—nonstick is the least effective at creating those crispy bits. But I gotta tell you, it's maybe the only one I'd consider using at home since it's the only pan that cleans up easily after the cooking process.
Another issue: the size of the pan. To make assassina without a pot of boiling water, you need a skillet large enough to accommodate the full length of the spaghetti, which means one that's at least 12 inches in diameter. Any smaller and the spaghetti won't lie flat, which means it won't properly simmer and cook evenly in the small additions of sauce.
There is one workaround, which involves par-cooking the spaghetti in boiling water for only a couple minutes, just long enough to soften the spaghetti just enough that it begins to bend, at which point you can get it into a smaller skillet and force it to yield to the pan's shape. Par-cooking in water is even what the cook at Al Sorso Preferito does in the video I watched. I've also seen interviews with the creator of the dish, Enzo Francavilla, that suggest he's always done it this way.
I tried this also in my testing, and it works, though I still found using a smaller skillet leads to crowding in the skillet and less ideal results. Whether you par-cook in boiling water or not, making all'assassina simply works better in a bigger pan.
Ingredient and Process NotesSpaghetti all'assassina is based on a relatively simple set of ingredients: spaghetti, a basic spicy tomato sauce made with chiles and garlic, and olive oil. Because the sauce is added incrementally to hydrate and soften the pasta, more water is necessary than will end up in the finished dish, so the tomato sauce needs to be diluted with extra water at the outset.
Towards the end, you have to allow the pan to get even more dry so that you can fry and blacken the pasta while occasionally scraping the pan with a thin spatula and rotating the pasta around so other bits can get their turn to crisp and scorch.
Some restaurants in Bari have adopted a final step of topping the pasta with a generous dollop of creamy stracciatella, the strands of cream-soaked mozzarella that fill balls of burrata. It's not traditional to the dish, but I think it works well. The fresh and tender cream-soaked cheese mingles with the spicy burnt pasta in a welcome and merciful final touch, like the kiss an assassin lays on their victim just before sending them off to eternity.
In a 4-cup measuring cup, dilute tomato passata with water to total 2 1/2 cups. Season sauce lightly with salt.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a 12-inch cast iron, carbon steel, or nonstick skillet (see headnote above to decide which you want to use), heat oil with garlic and chiles over medium-high heat until sizzling and garlic has turned light golden; remove garlic with a slotted spoon, if desired. Stir in tomato paste and cook for 30 seconds, then pour in enough diluted tomato sauce to just cover the bottom of skillet, increase heat to high, and bring to a boil.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd spaghetti, spreading it out to cover skillet bottom, sprinkle lightly with salt, and cook until liquid is mostly absorbed. Add more tomato sauce to just cover spaghetti and continue to cook, using a thin metal spatula (unless using a nonstick pan, in which case use silicone) to occasionally rotate pasta top to bottom and while moving it around to prevent excessive adhering of strands. Continue to cook the spaghetti in this way, cooking sauce down between additions before adding the next, until pasta is al dente, about 10 minutes (cooking times are approximate and will depend on how much sauce is added in each increment and other factors); continue to stir, scrape, and toss spaghetti occasionally throughout this process while allowing sauce to reduce and pasta and sauce to brown lightly in spots.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOnce pasta is al dente, allow sauce to reduce one final time, and continue to cook over high heat until browned an lightly charred; scrape and toss pasta and allow to brown and char again. Once pasta is nicely crisped and charred in several spots, toss one final time with a glug of fresh olive oil, and season with salt to taste if necessary.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer to plates and serve, topping with stracciatella, if desired.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNotesIn pace of tomato passata, you can also use a blender to puree a can of whole peeled tomatoes with their juices, then dilute 1 1/2 cups of that with water to equal 2 1/2 cups diluted tomato sauce.
Special Equipment12-inch nonstick, cast iron, or carbon steel skillet
Serious Eats / Getty ImagesFor many cultures, a meal without rice is, frankly, not a meal at all. In Southeast Asia, jasmine rice tastes and—more importantly—smells like home. In South Asia and the Middle East, long, elegant basmati is the indispensable variety that graces the table.
Both jasmine and basmati rice are aromatic, long-grain varieties, but they have distinct characteristics in terms of flavor, aroma, texture, and culinary uses. The choice between them often depends on the dish you're preparing, but what we love most about these two varieties is they are experts at dressing to suit the party. We spoke with fourth-generation farmer Brita Lundberg of California-based Lundberg Family Farms, Priyanka Naik, a chef, TV host, columnist, and author of The Modern Tiffin, and Pranee Khruasanit Halvorsen, a Seattle-based Thai cooking instructor, to learn more about the differences between these two beloved rice varieties and how to use them when cooking.
The Key Differences Between Basmati Rice and Jasmine RiceBasmati and jasmine are long-grain, aromatic rice varieties. Both kinds of rice belong to the genus and species Oryza sativa, the scientific name for the Asian rice plant. Their subspecies is Indica, typically associated with long-grain, non-sticky varieties of rice that separate when cooked (unlike Japonica, a subspecies associated with stickier short-grain and medium-grain rice).
The similarities between basmati and jasmine rice mostly end there. A handful of key differences might inspire you to reach for one over the other.
OriginBasmati rice originally comes from the Indian subcontinent—primarily India and Pakistan—while jasmine rice originated in Thailand. US basmati- and jasmine-type varieties are grown in California, Arkansas, Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, and Missouri. However, due to the unique environment of the Indian subcontinent, true basmati can’t be replicated on US soil.
Dry basmati rice.Getty Images / igorissThere are currently no patents or official DOP- or DOC-style rules (designation of origin) rules governing basmati or jasmine, so there are many hybrids grown in the US, such as California basmati and Texmati, to name a few.
In India and Thailand, basmati and jasmine seedlings are generally grown in a nursery and then transplanted by hand. In contrast, US farmers plant seeds directly into production fields, says Lundberg. Domestic basmati and jasmine also tend to behave differently than their imported counterparts. “Imported basmati rice will elongate during the cooking process, while most domestic basmati rice will not,” says Lundberg. And not all domestic jasmine rice is aromatic.
Aroma and Flavor“Basmati and jasmine rice are both aromatic varieties, which means that as they cook, they fill the kitchen with an irresistible aroma,” says Lundberg. “Jasmine rice smells light and floral, while basmati rice has a nutty, popcorn-like aroma. Basmati rice has a subtle nutty flavor, while jasmine rice tastes sweet and buttery."
StructureDry jasmine rice.Getty Images / AlasdairJamesLundberg says both varieties contain amylose and amylopectin, which are starch components consisting of glucose molecules. Amylose is a straight chain structure that helps rice retain its texture. Amylopectin is a branched structure that causes the rice to be stickier and bind together. Basmati rice contains a larger ratio of amylose to amylopectin compared to jasmine rice, which gives basmati grains bite and structure and makes jasmine softer and stickier.
TextureLundberg says both rice varieties should cook up fluffy with distinct grains. Neither should be outright sticky, but jasmine is clingier than basmati.
Basmati rice grains are long, thin, and sharp at the ends when raw. When cooked, basmati rice will separate and grow twice as large. It has a firm, dry texture, and the grains’ ability to stay separate make them ideal for biryani, pulao (Indian rice and peas), and rice salads.
Jasmine rice grains are slightly shorter than basmati rice and a little more rounded at the tips when raw. This variety tends to be soft and moist when cooked, with kernels clinging together. It’s great for fried rice and served alongside curries and stir-fries.
PreparationBoth of these types of rice can be made on the stovetop. Rice cookers are better suited for making jasmine rice than basmati—the latter won’t cook up as fluffy in this type of appliance. And the stovetop is essential for crispy rice dishes like Persian tahdig, which is traditionally made with basmati.
In either case, rinse your rice before cooking it until the water runs clear. “Rice may be sold in the dry goods section of the grocery store next to pasta, but rice is a plant,” says Lundberg. “So, like produce, give your rice a good rinse. Rinsing rice also helps remove excess starch, giving your cooked rice a fluffy texture with separate rice kernels.”
Basmati rice benefits from a 30-minute soak, which hydrates the center of the rice kernel to help it elongate and cook more evenly. It’s cooked with a rice-to-water ratio of 1:1 to 1:2 (depending on the cooking method and how soft you’d like it) for about 20 to 25 minutes. Jasmine rice, on the other hand, is typically cooked with a rice-to-water ratio of 1:1.5, and takes 15 to 20 minutes to cook.
How Jasmine and Basmati Rice Are Traditionally ServedVegetable qorma served next to basmati rice.Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBasmati rice is most directly linked to Indian and other South Asian cuisines, but it’s also a go-to in many Middle Eastern cuisines, including Persian and Armenian. Try it alongside khadkhadi (coconut-tamarind shrimp), fesenjān (Persian meat braise), and vegetable qorma.
“How basmati is served varies by region, but my Southern Indian family’s dinner spread would have one green vegetable, one carby vegetable, like potatoes or root vegetables, one bean-type dish, and something soupy like yogurt-based stew or stewed lentils,” says Naik. “We’d have chapati, which is like a round flatbread, and of course, basmati rice.”
Basmati's ability to absorb flavor and fluff up also makes it excellent for rice-based dishes in which the rice is infused with flavor, like pilaf, pulao, yogurt rice, and biryani. “Southern India is very rice-centric,” says Naik. “We literally have thousands upon thousands of rice dishes. With these rice dishes, the grains are sautéed with nuts, aromatics, and spices like peppercorns, cinnamon sticks, and turmeric.”
Serious Eats / Vy TranJasmine rice is used in Thai cuisine as a main component of a meal, alongside curries, soups, and stir fries. Traditionally, this variety is considered a special occasion rice, says Halvorsen. “It's a sophisticated rice, like a dish in and of itself, that you whip out for fancy meals,” she says. “When you make an impressive meal, you 100% have to finish it with jasmine.” Of course, you can use jasmine rice for quick meals like fried rice or as a side dish for lunch with vegetables and salted fish, but Halvorsen says any long-grain rice would be fine in those instances.
Jasmine is also integral to many other Southeast Asian dishes across Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, and the Philippines. Try jasmine rice with bak kut teh (Malaysian pork rib soup), cơm tấm (Vietnamese broken rice), and cha kreung satch moan (Cambodian lemongrass chicken stir-fry).
Can You Substitute Jasmine for Basmati and Vice Versa? “Discerning palates wouldn’t dare substitute jasmine for basmati, but as my dad says, jasmine and basmati rice are really more alike than they are different,” says Lundberg. “In a pinch, you can probably get away with substituting one for the other.”
We recommend going with the type of rice the recipe or cuisine calls for, but if you only have one type, it’s okay to swap them. “Jasmine and basmati rice are similar enough,” says Naik. “They have a little bit of a different fragrance, but I think they both go great with any sort of Asian cuisine.” Naik says she also uses basmati rice to make some Mexican dishes. However, if you’re making certain rice-based dishes like biryani or congee, the rice won’t cook up the same if you swap—jasmine will be too sticky for biryani, while the distinct grains of basmati will not achieve the porridge-like consistency of congee.
And as a side dish, you won’t be getting the full experience if you eat a Thai curry with basmati rice or an Indian curry with jasmine rice. “They just don’t go together,” says Halvorsen, pointing out that basmati is firmer, jasmine is softer, and the fragrances are different. And if you’re spending extra money to buy premium aromatic rices in the first place, it makes sense to use them the right way.
The TakeawayBasmati and jasmine rice are both aromatic long-grain varieties, but they bring different qualities to the table. Jasmine offers a delicate floral fragrance with a hint of sweetness, while basmati has a rich, nutty flavor and aroma. Jasmine is also a bit softer and stickier compared to basmati, which has a fluffier texture and retains well-defined individual grains when cooked. We recommend sticking with the rice type suggested in the recipe you’re using, but you can enjoy either variety in many applications.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeNot long after moving to England in 2019, I discovered the joys of the supermarket biscuit aisle. Here, "biscuit" refers to a cookie served with tea, rather than the American variety enjoyed with butter or gravy. Packets of biscuits filled the shelves from top to bottom, and while some of the offerings—ginger, shortbread, chocolate chip—were familiar, others, like bourbon creams and digestive biscuits, were brand new to me. The variety available was almost overwhelming, and I found myself perusing each packet, carefully debating which to try first.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeIn the years since that first shopping trip, I've sampled most of the biscuit aisle offerings, and custard creams have become one of my favorites. These sandwich-style cookies feature a silky, pale yellow custard powder–flavored buttercream between two crumbly rectangular biscuits. Paired with a cuppa (what many Brits call a cup of tea), custard creams are a tea break staple at home, in the workplace, and in social settings throughout the UK.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeIt’s unclear when exactly custard creams were invented, but the biscuits were incredibly popular during the 1900s: A search of the British Newspaper Archive reveals that “custard creams” were mentioned nearly 100,000 times between 1900 and 1949. In 2007, a survey of 7,000 Brits crowned the custard cream as the UK’s favorite biscuit, and while these slightly old-fashioned biscuits were recently outranked by chocolate-covered treats like Hobnobs and chocolate digestive biscuits, the custard cream remains a popular accompaniment to a cup of tea.
True custard creams are known for their distinctive embossed pattern, with swirls surrounding a diamond shape and the biscuit’s name stamped into the dough. The swirls on the biscuits are supposed to be unfurling ferns, a design that dates back to the Victorian era, Stuart Payne, the author of A Nice Cup of Tea and a Sit Down,, told the BBC in 2007.In London, the Chelsea Physic Garden displays an image of a custard cream among its collection of ferns, showing how the stamped design around the biscuit’s diamond logo echoes the plant’s unfurling fronds.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeIn addition to the classic version, custard creams come in all kinds of modern flavors, such as lemon, rhubarb, orange, and peaches and cream. The popular British department store Marks & Spencer even sells a chocolate-covered custard cream. Because many Brits enjoy custard creams daily, people often pick up a packet or two during their weekly shopping trips. Though store-bought custard creams are highly affordable and cost about 32 pence (about 40 cents) per packet, it’s extremely rewarding to make your own. Baking your own custard creams means you can control the sweetness of the buttercream and fill the cookie with as much—or as little—buttercream as you’d like. More importantly, it allows you to enjoy them fresh, when they have the best flavor and texture.
The Key Techniques for Making the Best Custard CreamsUse real custard powder. In my research, I encountered recipes offering substitutions like cornstarch or pudding mix. I tested these possible alternatives, but found that the biscuits lacked the distinct vanilla flavor and color that custard powder provides. For the best custard creams, it’s worth tracking down the real thing. Though there are many brands available, I recommend using Bird’s custard powder, which is what’s traditionally used. (As a bonus, you'll have plenty of custard powder left over to make a batch of Nanaimo bars.)
Keep the dough cold. Refrigerate the dough before rolling, and again after cutting the biscuits. Chilling allows the biscuits to retain their rectangular shape and embossed detail as they bake, and prevents the dough from sticking to the cutter. If at any point the dough starts to feel warm or overly soft, pop it back in the fridge for five to 10 minutes before proceeding with the recipe.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeWarm the milk. Custard powder gives the buttercream its signature amber color and vanilla custard flavor, but you can’t just add a scoop of dry powder. Like instant pudding mix, custard powder is designed to dissolve in hot milk. Whisking the custard powder into warm milk before combining it with the butter and sugar helps dissolve the powder, resulting in a silky smooth buttercream.
Consider springing for special cutters. For custard creams that look and feel professionally made, I recommend using classic custard cream cutters with the embossed ferns. But if you can’t find them or don’t feel like buying them, a regular rectangular will be just fine.
Fill them your way. Keep things simple by spreading the buttercream with a small stepped palette knife, or for increased precision, pipe the cream in two lengthwise strips. If you’re feeling extra fancy, you can cover the flat side of the biscuit with small piped dots of buttercream for a decorative finishing touch.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeHow to Serve Custard CreamsEveryone eats their custard creams differently. Some bite, some break, some nibble. Others dunk the biscuits in tea or coffee. Others, including me, prefer to separate the sandwich-style cookies and eat the smooth filling first, with the crunchy biscuits as a chaser.
Line a 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment; set aside.
For the Biscuits: In a medium bowl, whisk together all-purpose flour, custard powder, and salt. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeIn the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat butter and sugar on medium-high speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Add egg yolk and vanilla bean paste or extract and beat on medium-high speed until fully incorporated, about 20 seconds. Add dry ingredients and mix on medium speed until dough just comes together, about 45 seconds, pausing halfway through to scrape bowl with a flexible spatula. With the mixer running, add milk and mix until a thick dough forms, about 10 seconds. (Alternatively, you can prepare the dough using an electric hand mixer.)
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeUse your hands to gently press the dough together; it will feel soft and slightly sticky. Flatten into an 8-inch disc, wrap tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeOn a generously floured surface, roll chilled dough to about 5-mm thickness. With a 1 1/2- by 2-inch rectangular cutter, cut biscuits and use an offset spatula to transfer to prepared baking sheet, leaving at least 3/4-inch between each. Gather scraps, knead, re-roll, and cut as before. (If dough feels warm or sticks to the rolling pin, refrigerate for 10 minutes or until firm enough to roll.) You should have 30 rectangles. Refrigerate baking sheet with cookies for 30 minutes. (If a 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet won’t fit in your refrigerator, you can bake the biscuits on two or three 9- by 13-inch rimmed baking sheets instead.)
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeWhile dough chills, adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Bake biscuits until golden with very lightly brown edges, about 13 minutes, then cool on baking sheet for 5 minutes. Using an offset spatula, transfer biscuits to a wire rack to cool completely while you prepare the buttercream.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeFor the Buttercream: In a small microwave-safe bowl, heat milk on medium-high power until very warm to the touch, 8 to 10 seconds. Add custard powder and whisk until a thin yellow paste forms, 5 to 10 seconds.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeIn the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, whip butter on medium-high speed until smooth and creamy, about 30 seconds. Add confectioners’ sugar, milk and custard powder mixture, and vanilla paste. Mix on medium-high until smooth and creamy, about 1 minute.The buttercream should be soft and creamy, but firm enough to hold its shape when piped. If it feels too thin, add powdered sugar, 1 teaspoon at a time, until thick enough to pipe.Using a flexible spatula, scrape buttercream into a piping bag.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeUsing scissors, cut a 1/2-inch hole in the piping bag. Pipe 1 to 2 teaspoons of buttercream onto the flat side of half the biscuits, then sandwich with remaining biscuits.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeSpecial Equipment13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet, stand mixer or hand mixer, flexible spatula, rolling pin; 1 1/2- by 2-inch custard cream or rectangular cutter, offset spatula, wire rack, piping bag
NotesCaster or superfine sugar is finer than regular granulated sugar; it can be found in most grocery stores and online.
The biscuit dough tastes best with vanilla paste, which adds depth of flavor and pretty specks of vanilla bean. However, good-quality vanilla extract (not flavoring) will work in a pinch.
For traditional-looking custard creams, Amazon and other online sources sell an embossed cutter that makes patterns similar to the one on store-bought custard creams. If you plan to serve your custard creams for a special occasion, it's worth splurging on the pretty cutter. However, you can also cut the dough with a plain rectangle—about 1 1/2 x 2 inches works best.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe biscuit dough can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 24 hours. Allow refrigerated dough to stand at room temperature for 15 minutes prior to rolling.
Leftover custard creams can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days. The biscuits will soften as they sit, and the buttercream may deepen in color.
To freeze custard creams, layer filled or unfilled biscuits between sheets of parchment and freeze in an airtight container for up to 3 months. Thaw at room temperature.
Serious Eats / Francesca FasciglioneBanana bread is a classic comfort food that can be put together quickly (and enjoyed even quicker). One of our favorite banana bread recipes uses pantry staples you likely already have on hand—and, yes, packs six whole bananas into one loaf. While the cook ultimately makes or breaks the bake, the tools (like accurate measuring cups) matter, too. We gathered all our favorite baking tools that will help you make the best banana bread, and then some. Starting at just $10, these essentials include the best loaf pan, balloon whisk, mixing bowls, and more.
Essential Tools for Baking the Best Banana Bread: A Great Loaf Pan: USA Pan Nonstick Standard Bread Loaf Pan * The Best Cast Iron Skillet: Lodge 10-Inch Cast Iron Skillet * A Versatile Set of Mixing Bowls: Vollrath Set of 3 Mixing Bowls * A Flexible Silicone Spatula: OXO Good Grips Silicone Everyday Spatula * The Best Balloon Whisk: GIR Premium Stainless Steel Whisk * An Accurate Set of Measuring Cups: OXO Good Grips 4-Piece Stainless Steel Measuring Cups * The Best Measuring Spoons: Sur La Table Rectangular Measuring Spoon Set * The Best Cooling Rack: Mrs. Anderson’s Baking Half Sheet Baking and Cooling Rack * A Powerful Potato Masher: Tovolo Silicone Potato Masher * A Grippy Oven Mitt:* OXO Silicone Oven Mitt
USA Pan Nonstick Standard Bread Loaf PanAmazonThis loaf pan browns and releases loaves like a dream, thanks to its nonstick coating and ridged sides and bottom. The square corners turn out neat, tidy loaves, while the tall walls give the loaf some more height This is also the loaf pan our commerce writer swears by at home (That’s me, An!).
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubLodge 10-Inch Cast Iron SkilletAmazonFor any recipe that calls for caramelizing, such as this banana bread with caramelized bananas, you’ll want a pan that can brown and sear to golden perfection. This Lodge cast iron skillet has been our top cast iron pan pick for years, and we specifically recommend it in the banana bread recipe above for its prowess at caramelizing bananas and browning butter. It’s also on sale for only $20.
As you can see, cast iron skillets come in a myriad of sheens and colors, with some sporting a dark patina and others more of a coppery tone.Vollrath Set of 3 Mixing BowlsAmazonWe love that these mixing bowls are shallow enough to allow for a loose stirring motion yet wide enough to contain splatter. They excelled at mixing batters during our tests and we like that they have a slightly curved, thin lip for dripless pouring.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyOXO Good Grips Silicone Everyday SpatulaAmazonThe beveled edge on this flexible (but not too flexible!) silicone spatula aced all of our tests, whether it was folding chocolate chips into cookie dough, scraping brownie batter into a pan, or stirring a pan of soft-scrambled eggs. We trust it’ll gently mix your banana bread batter without over-mixing.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezGIR Premium Stainless Steel WhiskAmazonThis user-friendly whisk has a textured silicone handle that makes whisking more comfortable during longer tasks. The 12 wires hold excellent tension and vary in height, making it great for aerating whipped cream and producing smooth, clump-free pastry cream.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOXO Good Grips 4-Piece Stainless Steel Measuring CupsAmazonAn unsung hero of the kitchen, these humble measuring cups are super precise and come with magnetized handles to keep the set from floating aimlessly about your kitchen drawers. They’re easy to scoop sticky ingredients out of and we especially like that the cups are made of one solid piece of metal, so there are no rivets that could fall apart over time.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurraySur La Table Rectangular Measuring Spoon SetAmazonThese measuring spoons are accurate and rectangular, making them easy to fit into spice jars. We like how the long, thin handles help maneuver the spoons into the bottoms of jars, while the curves along the handles keep them from bending. During our tests, we thought the included eighth-teaspoon and three-fourths teaspoon were a nice bonus.
Serious Eats / Eric KingMrs. Anderson’s Baking Half Sheet Baking and Cooling RackAmazonOnce your banana bread is out of the oven, you’ll want a safe place for it to rest. If it even makes it to a cooling rack before you grab a slice, we recommend Mrs. Anderson’s Baking half sheet rack, which helps baked goods cool quickly without any warping or sagging. It’s also easy to clean thanks to its minimal design.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinTovolo Silicone Potato MasherAmazonTo make sure your ripe bananas are evenly mashed and ready for the batter, you’ll want our top potato masher pick from Tovolo, which makes quick and thorough work of mashing foods. The silicone head is also easy to clean. At $17, you’ll want to make even more banana bread just to have an excuse to use this well-built tool.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayOXO Silicone Oven Mitt AmazonThe snugger fit on these oven mitts provides you with greater flexibility and dexterity when handling hot pots and pans. They’re also thick enough to protect your hands as you maneuver baked goods inside a piping hot oven.
Serious Eats / Eric BrockobFAQsWhat is the best banana bread recipe?For nut lovers, we have an Ultimate Banana Nut Bread recipe. For a more straightforward bake, we have this pantry-friendly banana bread recipe.
What are other baking essentials I should have?We put together a guide of essential baking tools that everyone should have at home.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * She’s an avid baker whose baking tools drawer is bursting at the seams. * Her favorite baking tool is the whisk attachment to her immersion blender (but used without the immersion blender as a stand-alone whisk).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThere's a brief period every year when most of the summer's best produce overlaps with much of what is to come in the fall and winter. Piles of red tomatoes sit alongside mounds of fresh, crisp apples, and hard winter squash mingle with bell peppers and eggplant. I wouldn't want to ever have to pick my one favorite time of the year—they all have their place—but if I had to, it'd be hard not to single out this short yet abundant shoulder-season as one of the most glorious.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis is also a time of year when temperatures drop and cravings for more comforting, filling food hit. In this moment, I can't think of a better dish to make than lasagna alla Norma, which is an al forno ("baked") spin on the famous Sicilian pasta featuring summertime stars like eggplant and tomatoes along with fresh dairy such as ricotta or mozzarella (some recipes for this lasagna use one, some the other—I use both). It's the perfect way to take advantage of the last of summer's produce in a way that feels suited to the fall.
While this recipe is commonly known as lasagna alla Norma (or lasagna alla Catanese, after the city of Catania where alla Norma is said to originate), I find it just as useful to think of it as a mashup between eggplant Parmigiana and lasagna, given its alternating layers of fried eggplant, tomato sauce, cheese, and pasta. On a technical level, this Parmigiana mindset is more useful in determining the best way to make the dish.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen I was working years ago on my recipe for Italian-style eggplant parm (melanzane alla Parmigiana), I made it the way I'd learned to make it even more years ago while working on farms in Italy: I sliced fresh summer eggplant, fried it in oil, then layered it with fresh mozzarella, and a simple fresh tomato sauce. It's my preferred way to make it, much more than the breaded Italian-American version—the result is silky and fragrant, not heavy with breading.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBut over time, some comments popped up on the recipe complaining about a watery result. This stumped me—it'd never happened to me before, not on the farm, and not back at home in New York. Eventually I saw enough comments of this sort that I revisited my recipe and also had it cross-tested by one of my test kitchen colleagues (she reported great results). In the end, I updated the recipe slightly with some small technical adjustments to help reduce potential wetness, all of which I'm applying to this recipe as well. They are:
- Salt the eggplant. My lifelong experience is that most in-season eggplant does not need to be salted. It's not bitter, which is often given as the reason to salt, and I don't have any issues with how it cooks when unsalted. But even a brief salting does pull out some of the eggplant's water, and if wetness was an issue for some cooks at home, it seemed like a logical step to add to my parmigiana recipe, and to this one. Think of it as an insurance policy against unwanted wetness.
- Drain well after frying. This was a step in my original recipe for the parm, but I rewrote the instructions to emphasize how important it is to blot the fried eggplant slices well to remove excess oil. Oil isn't water, of course, but an abundance of it could in theory give the impression of a too-wet dish.
- Avoid thin tomato sauce. This too was less a technical change to my recipe and more a rephrasing of what was already there, stressing more clearly the importance of using a sauce that is not too thin and watery. It doesn't have to be thick like tomato paste by any means, but you want a sauce that, while fresh and bright and fruity, is also thick with the fruit's natural fiber, much like a good apple sauce.
- Blot the mozz. I strongly prefer real, fresh mozzarella to the low-moisture stuff, even though it's not as good of a melter and can release water when it does melt. It has a clean, milky flavor that comes through in the final dish and significantly improves it, making it miles better than any of the low-moisture mozzarella cheeses that usually get recommended in these kinds of recipes. So, what to do about that wateriness? Simple: I just grab a clean kitchen towel and blot the cheese well to soak up excess water. That seems to do the trick.
With all of the above adjustments, I'm confident my melanzane alla Parmigiana recipe will not come out watery for anyone, and I can say the same for this lasagna, which uses all the same techniques, just with some pasta layered in for good measure.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe result is fantastic, with flavors and textures that strike as both summery and autumnal at the same time. Though, for all my talk about the seasons, I'll be honest: I'd happily eat this any time of year.
Arrange eggplant slices in a single layer on wire racks set in rimmed baking sheets. Sprinkle lightly all over on both sides with salt, then let stand until eggplants look dewy with water and some water has dripped below, about 20 minutes. Blot well with clean towels to remove all excess water.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeanwhile, in a small saucepan, heat olive oil with garlic clove over medium heat until garlic begins to sizzle. Reduce heat to medium low and continue to cook until garlic is just beginning to turn golden, about 4 minutes. Remove garlic clove and discard. Add blended canned tomatoes (or passata) along with the basil and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, stirring often, until thickened and no longer watery (this may take almost no time at all for some passata products, or up to 20 minutes for waterier canned tomatoes). Remove from heat and season with salt. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a 12-inch cast iron or stainless-steel skillet, heat about 1/4 inch of oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Working in batches, fry eggplant, turning once, until golden on both sides. Carefully transfer to paper towels to drain well, blotting to soak up any excess oil as you go. Repeat with remaining eggplant, adding more oil to skillet if necessary. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Prepare an ice bath in a large mixing bowl. Working in batches to avoid crowing the pot, boil lasagna noodles until just shy of al dente, about 2 minutes less than cooking instructions for fresh lasagna noodles or 3 minutes less than package instructions for dry lasagna noodles. Using a strainer and tongs, carefully transfer to ice bath to chill, then drain and blot lightly with towels. Repeat with remaining pasta.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPreheat oven to 375°F (190°C) and set rack in middle position. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk ricotta until very smooth and creamy. Season with salt.
In a 2-quart baking dish, spoon a thin layer of tomato sauce all over, spreading it evenly to coat bottom. Cutting cooked lasagna noodles as needed to fit the baking dish, arrange the pasta in a single, even layer. Spoon another thin layer of sauce on top of the pasta, then dollop and gently spread a thin layer of ricotta all over (it doesn't need to cover every inch, but should be evenly enough distributed that it will melt and spread when baked). Scatter a small handful of mozzarella all over, then pieces of fried eggplant in a single, even layer. Top with another thin layer of sauce, then a sprinkle of grated ricotta salata and a dusting of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Repeat this layering until the baking dish is full, making sure to top the final layer of pasta only with tomato sauce, ricotta, ricotta salata, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. (Note: You may not use up all the components, but you should make sure to use all the eggplant and ricotta when layering the dish.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSet baking dish on a rimmed baking sheet (to catch any drips) and bake until fully heated through and lasagna is very lightly browned on top, about 30 minutes. Let rest for 15 minutes to cool and settle, then slice and serve, sprinkling torn fresh basil leaves on top.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment2-quart baking dish
Make-Ahead and StorageThe tomato sauce can be made up to 5 days ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container until ready to use.
The eggplant can be fried up to 2 hours ahead and set aside until ready to use.
The pasta can be boiled up to 5 hours ahead, but after chilling in the ice bath and draining, the pasta should be lightly rubbed with oil to prevent the noodles from sticking to each other, then placed in on a parchment-lined baking sheet, with layers of plastic wrap between the layers of pasta (once again, to prevent sticking).
The assembled lasagna can be wrapped with plastic and refrigerated for up to 1 day; remove plastic and bake according to the directions, though it may take longer to fully heat through. Check the internal temperature with an instant-read thermometer—you'll want to above 150°F in the center, or it may come out tepid.
Leftover baked lasagna can be refrigerated in its dish wrapped in plastic (or in an airtight container) for up to 5 days. Reheat in a 350°F (175°C) oven until warmed through, about 25 minutes (or microwave cut portions for a few minutes)
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoWe know, we know, this recipe is bound to elicit eye rolls and at least a few irate emails from Italian readers. And you know what? We don't care. Because as annoying as the idea may sound, it works. It's logical. We even think it's a little bit genius.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoConsider the evidence:
- Tiramisu is one of the greatest desserts of all time, utterly perfect in form and flavor. It needs no improvement.
- And yet, tiramisu is also begging for interpretation. That expanse of sweet, whipped mascarpone is a blank slate of creamy bliss, ready and willing to take on new flavors (see: matcha tiramisu, pandan tiramisu, chai tiramisu, and so many more).
- Pumpkin spice latte is a coffee drink, which means it already contains one of tiramisu's original ingredients, so we have synergy.
- Pumpkin spice latte also has warm fall spices that would absolutely be at home in a creamy, coffee-spiked dessert like tiramisu.
- Pumpkin spice latte does not (originally) have pumpkin, but everyone with a brain knows adding pumpkin to it makes it even better. (See proof here.)
- A light dose of pumpkin purée in the mascarpone base is a natural fit with all that warm spice, coffee, and cream—it's basically just pumpkin pie meets tiramisu—and no one in their right mind would complain about that!
- This does not mean we are abandoning classic tiramisu, we think there's enough room in this world to contain both, and more. So much more. All the more. There is no limit where tiramisu and any dessert it inspires is concerned. Except for tirami-soufflé, that sounds weird.
Here's the skinny on what goes into this: We incorporate pumpkin purée and pumpkin pie spice into the mascarpone filling, which gets its light, airy texture from the addition of whipped cream. And instead of soaking the ladyfingers in marsala, as is traditional, we dip the biscuits in a mixture of strong coffee, coffee liqueur, and vanilla extract. Topped with a light dusting of espresso powder and ground cinnamon, the dessert evokes the bittersweet, autumnal flavors of a pumpkin spice latte.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoSo, throw all the scorn you want at this, we dare you not to eat it when it's sitting in front of you staring you in the face.
In a medium bowl, combine coffee, coffee liqueur, and vanilla extract; set aside.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoIn a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip egg yolks, sugar, and salt on medium-high speed until pale yellow and quadrupled in size, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Using a flexible rubber spatula, scrape down sides and bottom of the bowl. Add mascarpone cheese and beat on medium-high speed until incorporated and fluffy, about 45 seconds. Scrape down sides and bottom of bowl, and add pumpkin and pumpkin pie spice. Beat on medium-high speed until light and fluffy and no lumps remain, about 1 minute. Transfer mixture to a large bowl; do not clean stand mixer bowl or whisk attachment.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoBeat cream in same stand mixer bowl on medium-high speed with whisk attachment until stiff peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a rubber spatula, add about 1/3 of the whipped cream to mascarpone mixture and gently fold until combined. Add remaining whipped cream and gently fold until no streaks remain.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoWorking one at a time, dip 24 ladyfingers into coffee mixture, rotating fully to coat and giving it two or three seconds to absorb the liquid, then transfer to a 9- by 13-inch baking dish. (See notes.) Arrange soaked ladyfingers in a single layer, breaking or trimming ladyfingers as needed to fit neatly. Top with half of the mascarpone mixture (about 3 1/2 cups), and, using a flexible or offset spatula, spread into an even layer. Repeat with remaining ladyfingers, then top with remaining mascarpone mixture and spread until smooth.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoIn a small bowl, whisk ground cinnamon and instant espresso powder to combine. Using a fine mesh sieve, lightly dust top of tiramisu with cinnamon and espresso mixture. Loosely cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 3 days; serve cold.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoSpecial EquipmentStand mixer, 9- by 13-inch baking dish
NotesDo not submerge ladyfingers in coffee mixture; dipping should take no longer than 3 seconds for each biscuit.
Make-Ahead and StorageTiramisu can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.
Serious Eats / Eric KingMeal prepping is a touchy topic. Devotees insist that learning how to meal prep changed their lives. Opponents scoff at the idea, convinced that meal prep means eating the same sad, boiled chicken breasts and soggy broccoli for a week straight. But as with most things heavily debated on the internet, a happy medium lies between two extremes: Effective meal prepping just means being prepared to, well, prepare a meal.
Imagine facing the Tuesday afternoon’s what-are-we-going-to-eat-for-dinner dread with the blissful realization that you decided on Nigerian Beef Suya two days ago and everything you need is already in your fridge. Imagine getting ready for work on Wednesday morning and having a packed lunch ready to go—kids included, if you’re responsible for feeding any. That is the kind of meal prep we’re talking about.
And because we’re big advocates of having the right tools for the job, of course we’re eager to share our favorite meal prep gear. Whether they’re storage solutions or clever timesavers, these products help us get through busy weeks well-fed with time to spare.
A Fast and Accurate Digital ScaleWe’ve tested a lot of kitchen scales, and OXO’s is one of our favorites. (Many of our editors use it at home, too.) It’s super reliable and the pull-out display makes it easy to read no matter what’s on top of it. While a digital scale is a useful tool for all cooks and bakers, it’s especially handy for consistency in meal prepping. Whether you’re portioning out a family-sized pack of ground beef or rationing quinoa salad for the next three days, weighing food eliminates the pesky inconsistencies of eyeballing.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerFood Storage Containers AplentyEven if you’re not into meal planning, leftovers and loose ingredients will always need to go somewhere. Good-quality food storage containers—whether glass, plastic, or silicone—will keep food fresh and safeguard against leaks and weird fridge smells. In our tests, Rubbermaid’s Brilliance line took the top spot in both glass and plastic categories thanks to their leakproof, tight-fitting lids with secure latches. We also appreciate the clear sides that let us see exactly what’s inside. For a more portable, easily stowable option, Re(zip) containers are great at securely containing food while taking up minimal space.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziReusable Food WrapsInstead of plastic wrap or aluminum foil for covering bowls, wrapping cheese, or hoping that half-avocado stays at least semi-green until tomorrow morning, try a beeswax food wrap. Not only are they reusable, but they’re breathable too, which means your expensive wedge of Parmesan cheese won’t taste like plastic the next time you chip off a shard in the middle of the night. Great beeswax wraps should stay sticky—even after washing—and adhere easily. In our review, both Trifecta Living Co. and Abeego wraps proved sturdy, easy to crimp onto bowls, fruits, and more, and were easy to hand-wash with soap and air-dry.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyA Slow (or Multi) CookerA slow cooker may feel like a relic of yesteryear, but these appliances have been around for decades for a reason: They get the job done. Throw in a few ingredients before work and come home to a hot meal. GreenPan impressed us with its quick heat-up time and effective browning abilities. It also stays cool for the duration of cooking, making it an especially safe option for households with kids or pets. For versatility beyond slow cooking, we love a multi-cooker like the Instant Pot for its ability to function as a rice cooker, steamer, pressure cooker, and more. It’s a great pick for small spaces or bang-for-your-buck budgets.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreCoffee Delivered to Your DoorNo one said meal prep has to be all about solid food. For many of us, coffee is a critical part of each morning, and few things are more unpleasant than going about your morning brewing ritual only to realize you’re out of coffee. Enter: coffee by mail. Trade Coffee Club isn’t just a subscription service to keep the good stuff coming to your door; it’s a portal to coffee from around the world. It's a great option for dipping a toe into specialty coffee (there are over 450 options to choose from). You might as well sip on something new during all that extra time you’ll have thanks to meal prepping, right?
Serious Eats / Will DickeyA Good Knife (or Several)A quality chef’s knife—one that’s sharp, well-balanced, and comfortable to grip—is the backbone of any kitchen. It’s the reliable all-rounder you’ll need for slicing, dicing, chopping, and every other cutting verb. And while a chef’s knife will suffice for just about everything, if variety is the spice of life, consider a knife set to give yourself more options (or to put someone else to work, too). Sets aren’t usually our preferred way to purchase knives, but they can be an efficient and budget-friendly option for widening your arsenal.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreHelpful CookbooksCookbooks are an incredible resource. They cover the whys and how-tos of cooking and are helpful to reach for when you’re out of ideas and can’t think of a single dish, let alone a week’s worth. From essential cooking to baking, meal prep is a breeze when you have a shelf of inspiration at your fingertips. Our staff likes to line their shelves with cookbooks that teach techniques and help pull you out of boring routines.
Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerA Food ProcessorFull-sized food processors are great for chopping, slicing, shredding, emulsifying and so much more. Cuisinart’s 14-cup food processor is one of our top picks thanks to its effective performance, reasonable price, and surprisingly quiet motor. If a full-size processor feels too bulky or pricey right now, a mini food processor can give you the same convenience in a stowable, affordable package. This one from Hamilton Beach packs a real punch for its size and even comes with a slicing and grating disk. Go ahead and dice onions without the tears, blend up a batch of salad dressing, or pulverize stale bread into useful breadcrumbs with ease.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonVersatile Baking SheetsBaking sheets are good for way more than just cookies—sheet pan dinners, anyone? And we love a sheet pan for meal prep. Roast a chicken, a head of cauliflower, or a batch of carrots and reap the rewards of (almost) hands-off cooking. Good baking sheets are made of heavy-gauge metal that conducts heat well and resists warping—both Nordic Ware and Vollrath tick those boxes.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinA Vacuum SealerVacuum sealers are handy for long-term storage like freezing sauces or fresh cuts of meat, but they’re also useful for creating a quick, forceful seal suitable for making instant pickles or sous vide cooking. We tested 24 vacuum sealers and these two from Nesco and Anova came out on top for their intuitive design and double-seal technology.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonAn Immersion Circulator (Sous Vide Machine)Okay, maybe we can’t claim an immersion circulator is essential for meal prepping, but it’s pretty useful for precision cooking. These little machines create a consistent water temperature for sous vide cooking without the need for constant monitoring. We like the Breville Joule for its fast, quiet performance and companion app you’ll actually want to use. On the budget-friendly end, the Instant Accu works so efficiently we can hardly believe it costs less than $100.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreA Swooshy Salad SpinnerMuch like slow cookers, salad spinners seem like one of those things you’d have found in your grandma’s kitchen when poking around as a curious child. But these tools are genuinely great. They make rinsing lettuce so much easier, which means you don’t have to buy the pre-packaged stuff to get salad on the table fast. Both of these picks spin smoothly and dry quickly, and in the case of the glass-bowled OXO, the bowl itself can double as your salad serving vessel.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziA Foolproof Rice CookerYes, with a bit of practice you can make decent rice on the stovetop, but real rice enthusiasts know that a rice cooker does a far better job of creating perfectly cooked rice every time. The Hamilton Beach model performed best in our tests with its simple control panel and no-frills settings, but the Zojirushi makes for a worthy splurge with well-reputed quality and fun settings (like playing different sounds when the cooking cycle is complete).
Serious Eats / Alexander HuangA High-Speed BlenderPowerful blenders like these don’t come cheap, but they’re so dang effective. Blenders are useful for smoothies and soups alike, and to even make your own nut butter. Vitamix has been leading the way for many years now with its professional-grade motor and clever vortex design that sucks all the ingredients down into its blades. The Blendtec is a little more affordable and excels in the smoothie department.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreFAQsWhat are the best meal prep tools on Amazon?Cool tools are not in short supply on Amazon, but we take a slightly different approach to cooking gadgets. Instead of cluttering our cabinets with novelty equipment, we shop Amazon for smart deals on essential equipment, like our favorite Vitamix blender and a truly outstanding espresso machine.
Does meal prepping actually save time?It can! Keeping the focus on preparing individual meal components—like whisking together salad dressing, peeling and chopping vegetables, and cooking a big batch of rice—allows you to move more nimbly when it comes time to cook and assemble a meal.
Why We’re the Experts* Summer Rylander is a proficient home cook and a frequent contributor to Serious Eats, where she deciphers testing notes on everything from cheese box subscriptions to portable charcoal grills. * The Serious Eats team has spent years testing the best cooking equipment, appliances, and tools. We regularly update our reviews with new insights and long-term testing results.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoPozole in its many iterations has been a beloved part of celebrations and family gatherings in Mexico for centuries. I grew up eating pozole rojo, a hearty pork version of the soup infused with a blend of fruity chiles and warm spices. The soup—which is studded with tender morsels of pork and hominy and finished with a rainbow of toppings like tostadas, lime wedges, thin slices of cabbage, onion, avocado, and more—was a mainstay at family birthdays and other celebrations. My aunts would (and still do) pull out an extra large stockpot just for pozole and simmer vats of the rich chile-tinged pork broth on an extra large outdoor burner, while children ran around playing and grownups gathered to laugh together.
My family always makes batches large enough to serve dozens. We, like many Mexican families, believe pozole actually tastes better the day after it's made, as the flavors mingle and the meat and hominy soak up the broth. It’s common for families to get together the morning after a party for pozole leftovers in what’s known as the “recalentado,” which translates to "reheated" in English—it’s a solid cure for a hangover from the night before.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoMy first attempt to make pozole rojo without my family's help was on Valentine’s Day three years ago, for my then girlfriend. Some words of advice: Never make a dish for the first time on a special occasion. I took shortcuts and Frankensteined together an over-the-top version with seven types of dried chiles, too much cumin, and chunks of tough meat. After this failed experience, I turned to my family for help and eventually learned how to make great pozole. My recipe, which I'm sharing here, must be pretty good because my then girlfriend is now my fiancé, and I like to think my pozole has something to do with that.
Origins and Types of PozoleIt is impossible to overstate pozole rojo’s significance in Mexico's culinary canon. Pozole is more popular than ever in Mexico and has become appreciated worldwide but the soup predates the 16th century Spanish conquest of Mexico; it was an Aztec recipe centered on their staple food, corn. Today it’s usually prepared with chicken or pork, but pre-Hispanic renditions were made with animals native to Mexico like turkey or deer. (Stories about pozole originally being made with human flesh have been largely debunked as the product of colonizers who lied or exaggerated claims of cannibalism to dehumanize indigenous groups.)
The Aztecs ate pozole on special occasions and the dish continues to be significant to the people of Mexican descent in Mexico and beyond. In Mexico and Mexican communities today, pozole is both part of a weekend routine as a nourishing Sunday morning meal to share, and a go-to, feed-a-crowd dish for holidays and events.
Like many beloved, iconic recipes, pozole shapeshifts from region to region and family to family. The countless variations can be loosely classified by their colors: blanco (a simple thickened broth with meat and hominy, which often serves as the base for other types of pozole), verde (which adds blended tomatillos and other green ingredients to the mix), and rojo, which gets its brilliant hue from puréed dried chiles—the colors of pozole are the same ones that make up the Mexican flag. People are as passionate about their preference as they are about their favorite soccer team. I grew up eating just red pozole, and I didn’t even taste green pozole until after I was old enough to drive.
The BrothWhile pozole can be made with a variety of meats, as mentioned above, pork broth based pozole is the most common. Pork pozole broth is typically made with shoulder meat that’s rich in collagen. The collagen releases gelatin as it slowly simmers, and thickens and imparts rich flavor to the soup as the meat tenderizes.
Along with pork shoulder, I also add pig’s feet to the broth, something I learned from my family. Simmering pig's feet with the broth is fairly common in pozole recipes, and some people even serve them in the finished dish. Pig’s feet have even more collagen than pork shoulder to further boost the broth’s porky flavor. For those less acquainted with cooking with pig’s feet, you're in for a treat: Once simmered,they’re unctious and tender and increase the broth’s meaty flavor considerably. You’ll need to look for a good butcher or go to your local Latin American, Asian, or even Polish market to find pig’s feet. If you can find them, you can also use espinazo de puerco, pork backbone, as the bones will also lend flavor and body to the soup. Or you can leave out entirely, but the soup won’t be as rich.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoBeyond using the right cuts of pork, the seasonings in the basic pork broth are simple— just onion, garlic, and bay leaves. The key to a great pozole broth is to cook it low and slow to extract the most flavor and give the meat time to tenderize. Simmer or boil the broth too hard at the start of cooking, and the meat will tighten and become tough.
The pork is served in large chunks, so it needs to be soft enough to bite through or tear a piece off with a spoon, but it shouldn’t fall into shreds when handled. To avoid this, be careful not to overcook the broth and meat in the first stage of cooking, before the chile sauce is added.
The HominyWhile a rich pork broth is the foundation for great pozole, pozole’s signature ingredient is hominy—plush, chewy kernels of nixtamalized corn. Hominy is both pozole’s oldest ingredient—the first recipes contained little more than hominy and water—and its most essential.
Hominy is corn that has undergone nixtamalization, a process in which corn kernels are plumped by being boiled in an alkaline solution of calcium hydroxide (also simply known as cal). Nixtamalized corn can be ground into masa—which is a staple in Mexican kitchens for producing tamales, tortillas, and more—or it can be left as kernels that are rehydrated and enjoyed in soups and stews. While you could start with dried hominy when making pozole at home, I opt for the more convenient and accessible canned hominy to save a bit of time in what is already a lengthy recipe. Canned hominy is available in white or gold and while both shades of canned hominy have a fairly similar flavor and texture, gold hominy tends to be a little sweeter.
Unlike other starchy soup additions like rice or pasta that fall apart if simmered for too long, hominy will retain its shape and pleasantly chewy texture even when simmered for long periods of time. I prefer to add the hominy when adding the chile puree so the hominy simmers in the soup for over an hour. The longer simmer time imparts hominy’s distinctive subtle nutty flavor throughout the broth.
The Chile Sauce BaseThe chile purée that gives pozole rojo its name should be bold in hue but subtle in flavor—the soup should never be overpoweringly spicy. Dried chiles bring so much more than heat to the table, and in many ways, pozole is a celebration of chiles understated flavors.
The chiles and spices used in red pozole recipes vary across families and regions. I prefer a blend of California, guajillo, and ancho chiles for a sweet, fruity, mildly spicy combination. They produce a bright red soup with little to no heat and a strong dose of acidity to balance the richness of the pork broth.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoPreparing the purée is a straightforward process: The chiles are toasted to wake up their flavor and steeped in water to soften before being blended with the soaking water, alliums, and warm spices. I always add a small amount of chicken bouillon as well for a savory boost of flavor.
The ToppingsA bowl of pozole rojo is not complete without an assortment of fresh and colorful toppings. Sitting down for a bowl of pozole should be an interactive experience in which you’re adding toppings for each bite. Always serve pozole equipped with a platter of limes, onions, tostadas, crema, radishes, avocados, and tostadas, and any other desired toppings.
While some people can be defensive about “authenticity” surrounding pozole, you should never be deterred from experimenting with toppings or flavors to enjoy it the way you want. Toss in a handful of chiles de arbol for heat or a drizzle of fish sauce for salty, savoriness. Some people crack their tostadas into their bowl to soak up the soup, while others slather crema on their tostada and eat it on the side—kind of like eating soup with crusty bread. A dusting of dried oregano is common. A shot of mezcal or tequila dropped straight into the soup is less common but not unheard of.
You don’t need to wait for a special occasion to make pozole, just make sure to share it with those you love.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFor the Pork and Broth: Generously season pork shoulder all over with salt and pepper. In a large stockpot or large Dutch oven, add the pork shoulder, pig’s feet, if using, onion, garlic, and bay leaves. Add 2 1/2 quarts of water and 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to low and cook, covered, adjusting heat as needed and occasionally skimming any scum and fat that rises to the surface, until a richly flavored broth is created and pork is just beginning to turn tender, about 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFor the Sauce: Meanwhile, in a high-walled stainless-steel skillet, toast chiles over medium-low heat until aromatic, turning occasionally, about 2 minutes. Add 2 cups of water, bring to a boil, then immediately turn off heat and soak chiles until softened, about 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoIn a blender, blend the chiles with their soaking water, garlic, onion, black peppercorns, cumin seeds, and chicken bouillon powder until smooth, about 1 minute. Season with salt to taste.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoAfter the pork has cooked for 1 hour in step 1, add the hominy and pour the blended chile sauce into the pork and broth mixture through a fine mesh strainer. Continue to cook on low heat, covered, adjusting heat as needed to maintain a gentle simmer until pork is fork-tender (broth yield should be about 2 1/2 quarts), about 2 more hours. Discard pig’s feet, onion, and bay leaves. Use a ladle to skim off any excess fat, if needed. Season to taste with salt.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFor Serving: Ladle into individual serving bowls and serve with toppings (onion, radish, cabbage, avocado, oregano, and lime juice) on the side to be added at the table. Tostadas can be shattered into the soup or slathered in crema and eaten on the side.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSpecial EquipmentBlender, large stockpot or large Dutch oven, skimmer, fine-mesh strainer
NotesCanned hominy can be found in the Mexican aisle of most well-stocked supermarkets.
This recipe can easily be doubled if; if doubling, you will need a very large stockpot, or need to cook in 2 separate batches.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe chile sauce can be made ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days.
Pozole can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 3 months.
Serious Eats / Qi AiIn 2011, CNN polled readers on the world’s best foods. The winner of their survey? Beef rendang, an Indonesian dish of beef slow cooked in coconut milk with turmeric, coriander, and other hallmark Southeast Asian aromatics, such as galangal, lemongrass, and ginger. Rendang takes three to four hours to prepare, but it is worth every minute. The meat is succulent and meltingly tender, its flavor is redolent with fragrant makrut lime leaves and lemongrass, and chiles give each bite a warm, subtle heat.
All About RendangScholars at the University of Surya in Indonesia have traced the origins of the rendang to the eighth century. They hypothesize that the Minangkabau people (often referred to as the Minangs) in West Sumatra began preparing a coconut-based dish with elements from Indian curries after Indian traders introduced their cuisine to the region. The Minangkabau people started preparing the dish with whatever proteins were abundant in their region, especially beef and buffalo, along with duck and seafood such as eel and scallops.
Over the centuries, that dish has passed through many lands, hands, and generations, and has evolved into the rendang that many Indonesians know and love today. There are as many rendang recipes as there are cooks, and the ingredients, spice level, and sauciness of the dish will vary depending on who is preparing it. The one constant is the cooking technique: The word “rendang” is derived from “merendang,” which refers to a technique of slow cooking protein in coconut milk and spices until the liquid caramelizes.
This technique achieves two things: First, it breaks down the meat’s connective tissue and collagen, making it extremely tender. Second, it removes excess moisture from the meat and the sauce—this partially dehydrates the dish, helping to preserve it for weeks in Indonesia’s hot, tropical climate. This was especially important before refrigeration was common.
The Minangkabau people are traditionally “perantau” or wanderers. In the past, they packed rendang on their travels, as the meal was perfect sustenance for long journeys from West Sumatra to the neighboring provinces of Riau and Jambi, and even across the Malacca Strait to Malaysia, spreading the dish and other Minang foods across the region.
Even though refrigeration is common today, rendang is still prepped and kept at the ready at room temperature, sometimes for an entire day, so that family members can eat the dish at their convenience. More than a long lasting food, rendang is also a lesson in patience, persistence, and cooking intuition, all of which are required for making a truly delicious version. Today, rendang is considered a food of honor all across Indonesia and must be prepared for special occasions like Lebaran (Eid al-Fitr), coronations, weddings, and other feasts and festivals.
Rendang is most often made with beef, and in my recipe below, I call for boneless beef chuck roast, though other boneless cuts with good connective tissue and marbling also work well. Although beef is prevalent, rendang is often still made with other proteins, just as it was centuries ago. When I was working on this recipe, I chatted with Amsterdam-based chef and author of the cookbook Rendang, Maureen Tan. She encourages home cooks to use whatever is available to them, including goat, chicken, or starchy cassava and plantains. Both Tan and I love to use bone-in cuts like beef short rib or lamb shank. Regardless of which cut of meat you use, be sure to cut it into cubes that are about 1 1/2 to 2 inches—this size is small enough to become meltingly tender during the slow braise but large enough to not completely fall apart during that time.
Serious Eats / Qi AiHow to Make a Spice Paste for RendangSpice pastes called bumbu bumbu, which are typically made with garlic, shallots, candlenuts (a high-fat nut similar to macadamia nuts), and other aromatics, are the foundation of many Indonesian dishes. Each one is named for its color and they can all be easily customized depending on what you’re making. Yellow bumbu dasar kuning gets its vivid hue and earthy flavor from turmeric and is used to prepare soto ayam, a comforting chicken noodle soup, and ayam goreng kunyit, turmeric-fried chicken. Red bumbu dasar merah serves as the base for beef rendang, and though the spices used vary, they typically include a combination of white peppercorns, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, long pepper, cloves, and cassia bark (as opposed to true Ceylon cinnamon) along with the standard bumbu bumbu base of garlic, shallots, and other aromatics. Some cooks in inland regions make rendang with just a paste of shallots, garlic, candlenuts, and chiles and do without other spices and aromatics—the result is a stew that’s less aromatic than coastal varieties but still delicious.
To make the spice paste for my rendang, I incorporate ground coriander seeds and turmeric into a mixture of shallots, fresh red finger-length chiles, galangal, ginger, garlic, and candlenuts. Though this is traditionally prepared using a mortar and pestle, I use my food processor, which is faster and results in a more evenly textured paste. Don’t worry if the paste is not perfectly smooth—the ingredients will soften and break down during cooking.
Coconut Is KeyCoconut milk plays a vital role in rendang. For a rich rendang with beautifully caramelized—not burnt—sugars, it’s essential to use a good full-fat coconut milk. Personally, I like Thai brands (such as Aroy-D or Chaokoh) because they taste and smell closest to the freshly-extracted stuff commonly used in Southeast Asia, but many of my Indonesian friends prefer Indonesian-made Kara brand products. Any of these or other full-fat coconut milks will be fine for rendang—just avoid using low-fat or light coconut milk. Some cooks, including Tan, like to add kelapa gongseng (also known as kerisik or ambu ambu) to their rendang—this brown, glossy paste made from toasted grated coconut adds body and a deep, nutty flavor to the dish. As an interesting side note, coconut oil (which is present in coconut milk) contains lauric acid, a medium-chain fatty acid with antibacterial properties that may extend the shelf life of food.
Serious Eats / Qi AiAn Easier Way to Make Beef RendangMaking rendang is simple but slow going. If you’re preparing it on the stove, as is traditional, it’s absolutely essential to stir constantly to prevent it from burning while still allowing the coconut milk to slowly caramelize. After years of making rendang, however, I’ve discovered a method that requires less effort but produces a dish that’s just as flavorful: Cooking it in the oven and finishing it on the stovetop. When cooked on the stovetop, the rendang is more prone to scorching because the heat is concentrated at the bottom of the pot from the flame or heating element. Preparing rendang in the oven means the heat is more gentle and even, which translates into less stirring.
Whether cooked entirely on the stovetop or in the oven and then on the stove, the dish goes through three stages of cooking. After an hour of simmering, when the ingredients are fully cooked and the sauce is bubbling, the dish has reached the “gulai” stage: The mixture is still soupy and resembles a thin yellow curry similar to Vietnamese- or Chinese-style curries. At about the two-hour mark, the “kalio” stage is reached, about two-thirds of the way to rendang. At this point, the oil splits from the coconut milk and forms puddles of oil on the surface of the thick, dark reddish-brown gravy. (The rendang can be served a this point, but I encourage you to keep going to achieve the best dish.)
Regardless of which method you use, once the puddles of oil have formed, the rendang must be cooked on the stovetop and stirred continuously to prevent the bottom from burning. The final stage of the most traditional Minangkabau version of rendang is reached when most of the gravy has reduced and the meat has absorbed all the flavors of the sauce. The small amount of liquid left appears very oily from the fat left behind and is a very dark brown. This is when it is ready to serve. Indonesian home cooks often say that the drier the rendang, the longer it keeps without refrigeration, sometimes up to months.
For Tan, it’s knowing how to “merendang” properly that matters. She reiterates that rendang is both a dish and a cooking technique, just like braising. As long as you make a great rendang bumbu and sauce, you can use whatever protein you like and you'll have an incredibly delicious rendang. And with patience, persistence, and honed intuition, you, too, can become an excellent rendang cook.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat to 325ºF (160ºC).
For the Spice Paste: In the bowl of a food processor, pulse shallots, chiles, galangal, ginger, garlic, candlenuts, coriander seeds, turmeric, and salt, stopping and scraping down sides as needed, until thick paste forms, 2 to 3 minutes. (Spice paste should have the texture of cooked oatmeal; use a rubber spatula to scrape the sides of the bowl as needed. If the paste isn’t coming together, add water 1 tablespoon at a time.)
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor the Rendang: In a 5- or 6-quart Dutch oven, combine spice paste, coconut milk, makrut lime leaves, lemongrass, cinnamon stick, and tamarind. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce heat to low and add beef, stirring to evenly coat with sauce. (Don’t worry if beef isn’t completely submerged.)
Serious Eats / Qi AiTransfer to oven and cook, uncovered, until sauce is reduced and a puddle of oil appears on the surface, about 2 hours, stirring every 30 minutes. At this point, the dish is ready to eat; you can stop cooking here or, for a more traditional rendang, proceed with the remaining steps.
Serious Eats / Qi AiWearing oven mitts, carefully transfer pot to stovetop and bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Using a flexible, heat-proof spatula, stir and scrape the bottom and sides frequently, and cook, uncovered, until the meat is tender, the sauce has reduced and darkened, and any remaining sauce is clinging to the beef, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Serve immediately with white rice and sambal, if desired.
Serious Eats / Qi AiSpecial EquipmentSpice grinder or mortar and pestle, food processor, 5-quart Dutch oven
NotesAsian shallots are about 1 1/2 inches long and are much smaller than regular shallots. They can be purchased at Asian grocery stores.
Mildly toxic when raw, candlenuts (kemiri) are used as a thickener in Indonesian cooking. In Hawaii, it is known as kukui nut and is a common ingredient in poke. You can find candlenuts at Asian grocery stores specializing in Southeast Asian cuisines and online. Macadamias, another mild tasting nut with a high oil content, have a similar texture when pounded and are a good substitute.
You can add 4 ounces (150g) baby or new potatoes if desired. Scrub the skins clean, and halve them if they are large. Add to the sauce at the same time as the beef.
Makrut lime leaves, lemongrass, galangal and “wet” tamarind are available at well-stocked grocery stores and Asian markets. If you can find daun salam (dried Indonesian salam leaves) and/or dried or fresh turmeric leaves, you can add 2 to 3 of each to the stew for an even more aromatic rendang.
Make-Ahead and StorageRendang can be made over several days. The spice paste can be made up to 2 days ahead and stored in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator. The rendang can be prepared through step 4 up to 3 days in advance; cool it to room temperature and transfer it to the refrigerator. To continue cooking, proceed with step 5 of the recipe.
Rendang can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to one week and frozen for up to 6 months.
Serious Eats / Qi AiSavory and sweet all at once, chicken bastila—also spelled bastilla, pastilla, or pastila—is a centerpiece at most celebratory Moroccan meals, and one of Morocco’s iconic dishes. It features layers of crispy warqa (thin Moroccan pastry, similar to phyllo dough) filled with a fragrant mixture of shredded chicken, scrambled eggs, and toasted almonds. In its traditional preparation, the chicken is stewed with onions, garlic, ground ginger, saffron, and cinnamon, intricately layered with the eggs and almonds between sheets of the pastry, then encased in pastry and baked until golden and crisp. Just before serving, it’s dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon to highlight its signature play of sweet and savory flavors.
While stunning and unforgettable, this traditional preparation described above requires ample time and skill to build. In busy Moroccan households, shortcuts have emerged over the years, allowing for quicker yet equally delicious versions of the dish like the one I'm sharing here. My skillet bastila recipe retains the signature flavors and key ingredients of bastila, but takes just a fraction of the time to prepare.
Serious Eats / Qi AiI cook this version frequently at home and love being able to bring familiar Moroccan flavors to the table without spending hours in the kitchen, plus my whole family loves it. My skillet bastila has become a go-to for us, especially on busy days when we still want something comforting and special.
A Brief History of Bastila and Its Many VersionsBastila is considered one of Morocco’s national dishes, representing the country’s penchant for blending aspects of different cultures and cuisines into truly special dishes. The origins of the dish are rooted in the fusion of Moorish, Andalusian, and Arab culinary traditions. It is believed that the Moors introduced the dish to Morocco during the Reconquista in the 15th century after they fled Spain. In the Andalusia region in southern Spain, savory pies, or “pastillas,” were a common tradition, often filled with meat, nuts, and spices. When this technique reached Morocco, it was adapted to local tastes, incorporating Moroccan ingredients and flavors. Spices like saffron, ginger, and cinnamon, as well as the use of almonds, reflect the dish’s Andalusian and Arab roots, while the use of warqa pastry adds a distinct Moroccan touch.
Often served during Moroccan festive occasions such as weddings, Eid, and other special events, bastila is regarded as a way to honor guests and celebrate togetherness. The meticulous preparation and layering of ingredients reflects the care and generosity of Moroccan hospitality.
While historically, pigeon or squab were used in the pie, chicken has become the popular filling over time due to its wider availability. In some coastal regions of Morocco, seafood versions of bastila are also common, offering a lighter, more delicate variation on this otherwise rich dish.
Serious Eats / Qi Ai3 Keys to Building an Easier Bastila at HomeAs pointed out above, what makes bastila so remarkable is the pie’s layering of many different flavors and textures: The spiced chicken is tender and juicy, the scrambled eggs add richness, and the roasted almonds provide a satisfying crunch. The saucy filling is countered by the thin, flaky crisp shell of the warqa pastry. My simpler one-skillet version celebrates all of these contrasting combinations of flavors and textures, but with a few notable shortcuts—most notably, cooking and layering all of the elements in one skillet rather than layering them in a casserole.
1. Start with boneless, skinless chicken thighs. Traditional bastila usually involves stewing a whole chicken and then shredding the meat to incorporate into the filling. Here I skip this timely step and start with boneless, skinless chicken thighs cut into bite-size pieces before cooking. These pieces are cooked with an aromatic base of onions, garlic, cilantro, ground ginger, turmeric, cinnamon, and optional saffron and simmered with stock until the meat is tender and coated in a saucy glaze.
To keep the dish simple, the cooked chicken stays in the skillet and the remaining ingredients are simply layered over top. I prefer chicken thighs over breast meat. The thighs' higher fat content ensures the meat remains juicy, and is key here since the chicken is both simmered and baked. For an even quicker version, you can use leftover cooked chicken or shredded rotisserie chicken. And if you prefer a vegetarian take, you can swap mushrooms or tofu for the chicken.
2. Use store bought frozen phyllo dough. When I make bastila in Morocco, I always use warqa pastry. It’s widely available in supermarkets and souks throughout the country. But outside of Northern Africa, warqa can be challenging to find, and I recommend using store bought frozen phyllo dough in its place. Compared to phyllo, Warqa is slightly thicker, a bit more glutinous, and bakes up just a hint crisper phyllo. But these differences are relatively minor and both styles of relatively thin sheets of pastry will turn light and crisp when baked.
Serious Eats / Qi Ai3. Skip layering and crinkle the pastry instead. Traditional bastila usually has 3 to 4 layers of pastry dough folded into the pie between the layers of the chicken filling, eggs, and almonds, before it’s all wrapped in a final casing of dough to create a crunchy shell. To recreate bastila’s signature crispy pastry topping at home, I skip the steps of layering the pastry between the filling, and instead simply top the pie with crinkled phyllo sheets to cover the entire skillet. This eliminates the need for assembling the pastry layer by layer, yet still creates bastila’s characteristic crunch. Brushing every sheet with melted butter before crinkling and assembling ensures all of the phyllo will crisp up and turn golden.
Feel free to adjust the spices and honey level to your liking for a sweeter or more savory version. Whether you’re preparing this bastila for a special occasion or for a simple family dinner, this version allows you to enjoy Moroccan cuisine without the lengthy preparation in the comfort of your home kitchen.
Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and preheat the oven to 350°F (175℃). Spread the sliced almonds evenly in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and toast in the oven, stirring halfway through, until golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside.
Serious Eats / Qi AiIn a 12-inch high-sided stainless-steel or cast-iron skillet, heat 1/4 cup oil over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add the onions, and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and translucent, 7 to 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Qi AiAdd the cilantro, honey, garlic, turmeric, ginger, saffron, if using, cinnamon, salt, and pepper, and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the chicken and stir to combine with the onions and spices until well coated.
Serious Eats / Qi AiAdd the stock and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is cooked through and tender, and the stock turns into a thick and glossy sauce that coats the chicken, 15 to 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt and honey, if needed.
Serious Eats / Qi AiMeanwhile in a small skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil until shimmering. Add the eggs and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring gently with a wooden spoon, until the scrambled eggs are just set but still wet on top,1 to 3 minutes.
Serious Eats / Qi AiScatter the scrambled eggs evenly on top of the chicken and onion mixture in the skillet, then sprinkle the toasted almonds evenly over top.
Serious Eats / Qi AiWorking with 1 phyllo sheet at a time, lay a phyllo sheet flat on your work surface and brush with melted butter. Loosely scrunch up the buttered phyllo and place, buttered side up, on top of the filling. Repeat with the remaining phyllo sheets until the pie is fully covered with the crinkled phyllo pastry.
Serious Eats / Qi AiBake until the filling is bubbly and hot and the pastry is golden on top, about 25 minutes. Just before serving,use a fine-mesh sieve and lightly dust with powdered sugar and cinnamon, if desired. Serve.
Serious Eats / Qi AiSpecial Equipment12-inch high-sided stainless-steel or cast-iron skillet, small skillet
Notes4 cups shredded or cubed pre cooked chicken can be substituted for the raw chicken. I starting with cooked chicken, add the stock and simmer for 10 minutes before adding the chicken and cooking until coated and glossy, about 5 minutes, then continue with the recipe.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe almonds can be toasted and stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks ahead.
The chicken filing can be prepared through step 4 and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Reheat the filling until warmed through in the 12-inch skillet before continuing with step 5.
The bastila is best enjoyed when freshly baked, but leftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Transfer to a baking dish or skillet and reheat in the oven to eat.
Serious Eats / Reese HerringtonWe’re steadfast in the belief that being able to take quick, accurate temperatures will result in better cooking. To achieve this, we’ve long stood behind the use of meat thermometers, wireless thermometers, and infrared thermometers—you name it, we’ve tested it. This includes, of course, the ever-handy instant-read thermometer, which should give any cook lightning-fast temperature readings that are accurate and consistent. No other thermometer does this as impressively as the ThermoWorks Thermapen ONE, a favorite of ours for years that is on sale now for 30% off.
ThermoWorks Thermapen ONEThermoworksWhy It Won Our ReviewThermoWorks already makes some of our favorite thermometers, including its leave-in probe thermometer, so it’s no surprise that the brand’s instant-read model is a top performer. During our tests, the Thermapen ONE delivered temperature readings in just two to three seconds, faster than the rest of its competitors. Time is of the essence, of course, as we know that the longer it takes to achieve a reading, the more heat is lost from your open oven or grill. We even compared it to our previous favorite, the now-discontinued Thermapen Mk4, and it performs just as well. As associate editorial director Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm puts it in her recommendation, “The Thermapen ONE is the very best money can buy. It’s one of my favorite things to gift any cook or baker.”
The Thermapen ONE also has a big, backlit display that rotates, making it easy to read from any angle—a feature that’s especially appreciated during quick temp readings over hot roasts in the oven. Not only was it the fastest thermometer we tested, but it was the most consistent and accurate when reporting on a sous vide bath set at 134°F, ice cold water (32°F), and boiling water (212°F). We also like that the probe can open up to 180 degrees, so it can be easily and quickly adjusted based on the angle of the reading.
Of all the thermometers we tested, the Thermapen ONE is the only model with a waterproof rating of IP67, which makes it easy to wash in case kitchen projects get messy. It automatically turns on the moment you pull out the probe (or when you pick it up, if the probe is already out). This cuts out any time you might otherwise waste fiddling with an on/off button. We simply think the Thermapen ONE is the best instant-read thermometer you can get your hands on, and right now, it’s an impressive 30% off. Don’t wait to pick it up ahead of preparing your Thanksgiving feast or as a holiday gift.
Key Specs Features: Backlight display, rotating screen, rubber nonslip grip edge * Accuracy: +/- 0.5°F (+/- 0.3°C) from -4° to 248°F (-20° to 120°C) * Probe length: 4.3 inches * Measurement range: -58°F to 572°F * Waterproof: IP67 * Battery life: 2000 hours * Warranty: 5 years * Dimensions:* 6.1 x 1.7 x 0.74 inches
FAQsIs the Thermapen ONE waterproof?Yes, the Thermapen ONE has a waterproof rating of IP67, so you can wash it if you need to.
Does the Thermapen ONE have a 360-degree rotating screen?Yes, it’s the only thermometer we tested with a 360-degree auto-rotating screen.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * An has had her Thermapen IR (a sibling to the Thermapen ONE) for years and it’s one of her most treasured kitchen tools.
Serious Eats / Reese HerringtonAfter opening 50 bottles of wine to test wine openers, we found that one emerged as the easiest and most efficient to use, so much so that it dethroned our previous favorite. Opening a bottle of wine should be quick, painless, and mess-free, which the Pulltaps waiter’s corkscrew can achieve in one fell swoop. It’s comfortable to hold and securely pulls out corks so you can do more celebrating and less wiggling. (Heads up: It’s selling out fast, so you might want to grab one soon.)
Pulltaps Waiter’s CorkscrewAmazonWhy It Won Our ReviewA waiter’s corkscrew is the classic model you’ll see in the hands of sommeliers and bartenders. It works by twisting the worm (the spiral bit) into the cork, then pulling it out using the fulcrums and handle. Its strength is in its compact size and efficient process, which we experienced with the Pulltaps waiter’s corkscrew. It performed so well during our tests that it surpassed our previous top pick, the Trudeau turbo double lever corkscrew.
The Pulltaps model also has a serrated blade that slices smoothly through the foil at the tops of bottles. Most importantly, it has evenly spaced fulcrums which offer plenty of leverage to pull out a cork, even for smaller hands. The handle has a nice curve to it, making it comfortable to maneuver over the top of a bottle, and at 3.1 ounces, it’s among the lightest of the wine openers we tested. It also has nine worm curves—a decent amount to burrow deep into a cork so it doesn’t break. When folded up, the corkscrew can easily fit into an apron pocket, so you know it’ll be a cinch to store.
Before your home is overrun with holiday guests in need of a wine opener, grab this one while it’s still in stock. If you’d rather a lever-style corkscrew, we recommend the Rabbit Original lever wine opener, which smoothly removes corks with impressive ease.
Key Specs Style: Waiter’s * Materials: Stainless steel * Overall length: 4.75 inches * Worm length: 2 inches * Worm curves: 9 * Weight:* 3.1 ounces
FAQsWhat is the Pulltaps waiter’s corkscrew made of?The body is made of chrome and should be hand-washed.
What are the best winged corkscrews or electric corkscrews?We tested those, too! You can find our thoughts on all 20 tested models here.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * We’ve tested wine openers for years and periodically update our guide with new insights.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeFall is a mindset as much as it is a season. The minute the leaves start to change colors and float off the trees, I know it’s time to grab my favorite sweater, put on my coziest socks, and curl up under the biggest blanket I can find—even if it’s still 70 degrees outside. The shorter days and the (eventual) chill in the air implore me to slow down and dream about my next big, warm bowl of comfort food.
These eight fall chicken recipes are comfort food at its finest. From classic roast chicken to a wild rice soup and an easy sheet-pan dinner, these dishes were made for slow, relaxing evenings where you can savor every bite. The only question is, which one will you make first?
Spatchcocked (Butterflied) Roast ChickenSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezWith a little technique, you can churn out crispy crackly roast chicken with moist, tender meat like an absolute pro. Make sure to keep this one in your fall recipe repetoire!
Easy Chicken Pot PieSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeA simple, ultra-comforting chicken pot pie with a shatteringly crisp crust? Sign us up.
Chicken and Wild Rice SoupSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeThis Midwestern soup is a hearty meal ideal for a chilly day—because who doesn't need a good chicken soup in their arsenal?
One-Pan Chicken, Sausage, and Brussels SproutsMatthew and Emily CliftonWith the right technique, even the staunchest hater of Brussels sprouts can be made to see just how delicious the smallest brassica can be. That's where this recipe comes in.
Sheet-Pan Roasted Chicken, Sweet Potatoes, and Brussels SproutsSerious Eats / Robby LozanoThis chicken dinner cooks all on one sheet pan so prep and cleanup are easy. It's loaded with flavor and gorgeous, too.
Kare Raisu (Homemade Japanese Curry Rice)Vicky WasikToasted and freshly ground spices give this homemade Japanese curry a blast of flavor.
Chicken Yassa (Senegalese Braised Chicken With Caramelized Onions)Jillian AtkinsonThis recipe is a citrus-forward version of your favorite stewed and smothered chicken-and-onion dish.
Lowcountry Stew ChickenSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis South Carolina stew features a deeply flavored, light-bodied sauce with an onion-forward flavor.
Bienvenue! Please make yourself comfortable—virtually of course. This may not be a brick-and-mortar bistro, but we hope you can feel the lamps' warming glow, see the calligraphic swirl on the chalkboard menu, hear the conversation over the clinking of plates and glasses, and smell the garlic butter on the escargots that just landed on your marble-topped table. It's all so familiar, so comforting, and it's what we want to celebrate here, chez Serious Eats. With the recipes and guides below, you can recreate the classic French bistro experience at home any time you want.
There's so much to love about a bistro—the menu of French dishes as reliable as standards from a jazz songbook; the affordable yet quality wine list; and the trademark decor, two parts Art Nouveau, one part Belle Époque, with a dash of vintage-industrial sprinkled in. It is so immediately recognizable and beloved that more than a few restaurateurs outside of France have made a small fortune creating carbon copies, like sets for a period piece where the diners are the stars. In this sense, the bistro is more than a type of restaurant, it's true dinner theater.
At the same time, the bistro is not fated to live on as a mere museum piece. It is alive, in France and abroad. Not every "bistro" today matches the classic French template described above. In the States, there are bistros that are more of a burger-and–potato skins kind of place and less a moules marinières–and–steak tartare kind of place; what they have in common is space that's comfortable and intimate and food that's approachable and well prepared. And while you can still find plenty of old-school bistros in France, it's perhaps there that one can find the most innovation—menus that modernize and reinterpret; decor that doesn't feel like an interior designer spent hours faux-aging a brass-framed mirror.
So take a look at the menu, maybe read up on the wines and cheeses. Take your time, we’re here to help you make your table—preferably candlelit—the kind of place where everyone wants to linger. The joie de vivre, though, is on you.
A great bistro meal starts here. These appetizers are the the ideal beginning—whether you want to share or not.
Steak TartareSteak tartare is one of the easiest, most delicious "fancy" appetizers you can make at home.
Salade LyonnaiseLyon's staple bistro salad features bitter greens tossed in a warm vinaigrette and is topped with chewy lardons and a gooey poached egg.
Oeufs MayonnaiseThis easy-peasy egg dish is a French classic that will have you leaving deviled eggs behind.
Pork Croquettes With Sauce GribicheA modern (and more accessible) take on the French classic called tête de veau.
Coquilles Saint-JacquesThese scallops in a creamy sauce are frequently found on the menus of bistros and brasseries.
From delicate spring greens to woodsy mushrooms and hearty potato dishes, we've got you covered. Our collection of fresh, simple, and seasonal vegetable side dishes are perfect for sharing.
Champignons SautésFor savory, meaty-textured, deeply browned sautéed mushrooms, start with steam.
Fresh Asparagus With Sauce GribicheFollow the recipe for this rich and eggy sauce, then spoon it on tender poached asparagus.
Haricots VertsHaricots verts are first blanched, then receive the full amandine treatment: topped with a browned butter sauce and crunchy almonds.
Pommes PuréeUltra-creamy, butter-loaded mashed potatoes are really more of a French thing than an American one. Go ahead and call them pommes purée.
We've perfected the techniques for recreating your favorite bistro entrees at home.
Steak FritesSteak frites is classic French bistro fare at its finest, and it pulls at our American steak-and-potato-lovin’ heartstrings.
Trout AmandineFor impressive trout almondine (as we anglophones call it) don't be shy with the butter.
Steak HachéThe ultimate bistro burger, minus the bun.
Quiche LorraineThe iconic quiche Lorraine is unapologetically rich and custardy, with a very tender, flaky crust.
How to Find the Best Affordable French WinesThe only thing better than steak frites is enjoying it with a perfect glass of wine. Seasoned wine writer Emily Saladino shows us how to identify really good, affordable French wines, plus what bistro dishes to pair with them.
A Guide to the French Cheese PlateHear from a professional cheesemonger on the ins and outs of building a great French cheese plate or board.
The Charcuterie Cheat-SheetA little cured-meat snack is always welcome, here are some of France's most famed charcuterie specialties to seek out.
No bistro meal is complete without a sweet send-off. Don't worry, there's no need to tip your server.
Mille-FeuilleStack layers of crisp, delicate puff pastry with vanilla pastry cream for a pâtisserie-worthy dessert.
Crêpes SuzetteCrepes simmered in a sauce of orange juice, butter, and sugar, and a dash of liqueur. It's fire. (Literally.)
Tarte TatinFor a more foolproof tarte Tatin, soak your apples in hot water and drop the acid(ity).
Crème BrûléeCrème brûlée is a magnificent dessert of silky, vanilla-scented custard beneath a shatteringly crisp topping of caramelized sugar
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPeople in the United States love cheese, but here it's typically in something or on something—mac and cheese, pizza, burritos, sandwiches, and so forth. Even when we serve a cheese course before or after dinner, it's likely with crackers or bread if not a whole Instagram-tailored spread of fruit, nuts, vegetables, and meats. But in France, it's not uncommon to see people tucking right into a plate of cheese—no crackers, no bread, no accoutrement. "I would say it's a difference in the way that we think about cheese culturally," says John Montez, a certified cheese professional and the training and curriculum manager at Murray's Cheese in New York. "In the US I think we're still getting over cheese being an ingredient. So it's still a little bit strange, this idea of having cheese on its own."
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBut having cheese by itself is indeed a very, very good idea. If you live near a good cut-to-order cheese shop, the best way to put together a great cheese plate or board is to simply chat with a cheesemonger and taste samples. "I think the best way to learn about cheese is to eat cheese," Montez says. But there are some general guidelines to keep in mind when shopping. Read on for Montez's advice, plus a sampling of French hard, blue, and soft cheeses to try in the US—along with a few picks that aren't available here to definitely taste if you're in France.
Guidelines for Building a Great French Cheese PlateStart with three to five cheeses. When you're assembling a cheese plate, the first consideration is how many cheeses you want. Montez says he typically sticks with odd numbers, mostly because he thinks that looks better visually than even numbers, and he likes to have a minimum of three cheeses.
Mix up the textures and flavors. A general guideline for a basic cheese plate is to have something hard or semi-firm, something soft, and something blue. So a classic French cheese plate might feature a hard Alpine cheese like Comté, a soft cheese such as a Brie, and a blue, such as Roquefort. You may also want to mix up the milk types with a goat, a sheep, and a cow's milk cheese, for example.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThat said, Montez says sometimes he and his cheesemonger buddies will do vertical tastings of several iterations of one type of cheese. "It depends on the sort of philosophy behind your tasting," he says. "For an average get-together where you're trying to please a crowd, I think variety is the best way to go. So a range of milk types is great. However, when I'm getting together with my friends who work in the industry, we like to do vertical tastings." With a recent tasting of three types of blues (Roquefort, Bleu D'Auvergne, and 1924 Bleu) he says, "It was really cool to just be able to taste those subtle differences, but I mean if you're trying to please a crowd having nothing but three blue cheeses might not be the way to do it."
Consider the season. While I'm kind of a hardass about seasonality when it comes to produce (please do not serve me asparagus in the fall and butternut squash in the summer), I never thought much about seasonality with cheese until I spoke to Montez. "I think it's important to be very seasonal with your approach," he says. So, for example when considering a soft cheese in the spring or summer, Montez says he might go for a simple fresh goat cheese. "Simple fresh cheeses can taste so good when they are made at this time, when the animals are eating grass and the cheeses are made by a good creamery." On the other hand, in the fall or the winter, he'd be more likely to pick a heavier soft cheese—for example, a savory, bloomy rind cheese such as Brie or Camembert.
Take it out of the fridge ahead of time—or never put it there in the first place. Refrigeration mutes cheese's flavors and makes soft cheeses unpleasantly firm, so Montez recommends removing cheese from the fridge at least 30 minutes or preferably an hour before you plan to serve it. "Although my personal philosophy is if you are lucky enough to live near a cut-to-order cheese shop, buy what you're going to eat that day," he says. "If you buy just the amount you plan to serve that day, it never needs to even see a fridge."
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezHe says it's very common in France to have a cheese box to hold cheese at room temperature. Serving the cheese the day you buy it can also prevent it from picking up funky flavors from your fridge, and keeps it as close to its proper flavor and texture as possible. "Honestly, once the cheese is no longer in the cave that it was aged in it's no longer in an ideal environment," he explains. "Once it's no longer in a wheel, it's going to start to pick up off flavors. It's not going to hurt you, necessarily, but it's not going to taste as the cheesemaker envisioned it tasting." If you are worried about your soft cheeses getting warm and running all over the place, Montez suggests putting them in a little dish and scooping them up.
Wrap leftovers properly. "You know, cheese really doesn't like plastic," Montez says. If you are wondering why shops like Murray's display cheeses wrapped in plastic, Montez says that's because "no one's gonna buy something that they can't see." But once the cheese is sliced in the shop, it should be wrapped in cheese paper, and if you have leftovers you should either re-wrap it in the paper it came in or wrap it in wax paper or parchment paper.
French Hard CheesesSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf you want to go really traditional with a hard French cheese, Montez says you can't go wrong with an Alpine cheese such as Comté. "There's a special, wonderful tradition of Alpine cheese making in France," he says. "When I was a cheesemonger in the Grand Central location of Murray's, whenever I would hear somebody with a French accent approaching the counter, my hand instinctually went for the Comté. And every time they got it. It's just a beloved cheese." In the spring and summer, he says there are some nice 12 to 18 month Comtés with a delicate nuttiness, while in the fall and winter you can sometimes find Comtés aged for two or three years that are "out of this world." These older Comtés are sometimes labeled as "salt Comté," and will be heavier, drier, and more concentrated with more crystals and "bold, oniony, beefy flavors."
ComteSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf you want something more rustic, Montez is a fan of the farmhouse cheese Tommes de Savoie, which is made with raw cow's milk and has a tangy flavor and a craggy—and entirely edible—rind. Montez says it's a popular pick among French customers at Murray's. "It's an easy eating cheese, and it's one of the rustic farmhouse cheeses—you can tell just looking at the rind that they allow just whatever grows on there to grow. So you get these wild flavors and no two wheels are going to be the same."
Tommes de SavoieSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezMontez says once you're really ready to start expanding out on your French cheese selection, he recommends adding some Basque cheeses, which are "not always on the radar like the classic French cheeses." He says, "I love the Basque cheeses because they're such a different aesthetic than the rest of France—they're so much more rugged." Ossau Iraty, a mountain-style sheep's milk cheese from the Pyrenees is a fantastic choice if you want to add a Basque cheese to your board.
Ossau IratySerious Eats / Amanda SuarezFinally, another nice (and very approachable) option for a hard cheese is Mimolette, a cow's milk cheese with an orange hue and butterscotch-like flavor that's similar to a Gouda or Edam. "It's famous because they encourage the growth of cheese mites on the rind and they kind of dig little craters into the cheese," Montez says. "The ones that they send us in the US don't have the mites. Usually they vacuum them out. They give a little bit of a lemony flavor that you miss out on in the ones they send to us." Even without its mites, Mimolette is a fun, vibrant, crowd pleasing cheese, Montez says.
French Blue Cheeses"Roquefort is the 'king of cheeses' or actually 'the cheese of kings and popes'—when I think of a classic French cheese plate, it's got to have Roquefort," Montez says of the classic, tangy French blue made from raw sheep's milk. Beyond Roquefort, Montez is a fan of Bleu D'Auvergne, which he describes as almost a cow's milk version of Roquefort. "It's a little bit more mild, and it just has these notes of baking spice and cinnamon. I think it is sometimes a little bit more versatile because it's not sheep's milk. Sheep's milk cheese is so fatty and creamy that you can't do much with that cheese other than spread it on a piece of bread. Bleu D'Auvergne, you could crumble it, put it in a salad, cook with it. That's one I really love."
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAnother favorite French blue for Montez is Herve Mons' 1924 Bleu, a mixed milk cheese that is based on an older recipe for Roquefort from before it had PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status. But overall, he says, "It's hard to go wrong with a French blue," so here, again, ask your local cheesemonger what they recommend.
French Soft CheesesThere are tons of great options among French soft cheeses, from very mild and milky to super funky. If you're looking to expand beyond three basic cheeses for your cheese plate, Montez says, "I would really fill in with those soft cheeses because I think that's where you get some of the most variety."
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn the world of soft goat's milk cheeses, in the spring you might opt for a mild chèvre such as the French-style American fresh goat cheese from Vermont Creamery on the East Coast or Laura Chenel on the West Coast. In the US these fresh goat cheeses will be made with pasteurized milk, while in France they are more likely to be made with raw milk.
For a bolder fresh goat, choose a Loire Valley cheese such as Selles-Sur-Cher, an unaged goat cheese that has an ash rind that encloses a thin cream line with a slightly crumbly interior. The flavor is grassy, tangy, and more robust than the Vermont Creamery chèvre but still relatively mild. Montez also recommends Valencay and Sainte-Maure, two other ash-coated goat cheeses from the Loire Valley. One of these Loire Valley cheeses with a Sancerre "is just one of those pairings that'll knock your socks off."
Brie Fermier and Camembert FermierSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor buttery, delightfully oozy cow's milk cheeses with a white, slightly chewy bloomy rind Montez suggests picking up Murray's house brand Brie Fermier or a Camembert Fermier or a similar cheese from another purveyor—just ask them for something on the savory, funky side. (For what it's worth, Murray's cheeses are now available at Kroger stores.) Because of US laws that forbid selling unpasteurized cheeses under 60 days, you won't find 100% proper French Brie or Camembert in the United States. However, the Brie and Camembert fermier—farmstead—cheeses from Murray's are made with pasteurized milk and then are inculcated with cultures that break down proteins and help the cheese develop a savory, vegetal flavor that's closer to what you'd find in France. The "fermier" on the label simply means farmstead, so that label doesn't necessarily mean the cheese has been treated with cultures—you'll have to chat with your cheesemonger to learn more. One option sold in the US is Fromage de Meaux, a take on the PDO Brie de Meaux, which also has cultures added to give it a more authentic flavor.
For somebody who wants a savory Camembert-style cheese made in the US, Montez recommends Jasper Hill Farm's Moses Sleeper, which is from Vermont. (Murray's and other cheese stores also carry untreated Bries that are milder and more in line with what Americans expect from a Brie—"lactic, buttery, a little bit mushroomy, not as traditional.")
If you want a mild, luscious bloomy rind cheese, pick up a wheel of triple crème such as the almost impossibly creamy, gooey Brillat Savarin, which has a delicate mushroomy and uber-buttery flavor. Delice is another excellent triple crème for fans of the style. "They're very mild, buttery, creamy, and just very well made."
Brillat SavarinSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezOn the "funky, stinky" end of the soft cheese spectrum are washed rind cheeses such as Epoisses that Montez loves in the fall and winter for their heavier flavors. With its orangish washed rind enclosing a gooey, pungent, buttery, meaty core, Epoisses is a wonderful choice for anyone who likes a full flavored cheese. "Epoisses is a classic example of a monastery cheese," Montez says. "It comes in a little box and it's just so gooey, and bacony, and meaty."
"'Monastery cheese' is a category that is mostly used in Canada in the same way that we use the term 'washed rind,'" Montez explains. "In Canada, it does not always mean that it actually originated in a monastery, just that washed rinds as a style are believed to have. Some cheese historians doubt this though. My favorite example of a true monastery cheese is Chimay cheese, which is made by the same Belgian Trappist monks who make the beer Chimay. They actually wash the cheese in the beer. Hard to find in the US, but you owe it to yourself to try it if you come across it." For a gooey washed rind American cheese, Montez recommends Jasper Hill Farm's Willoughby.
Cheeses to Try When You're in France That You Can't Get in the USAs mentioned above, because of the US rules forbidding raw milk cheeses aged for fewer than 60 days, there are some French cheeses you will simply have to go to France to eat. If you have a trip planned (or happen to live in France), Montez recommends trying the wide variety of excellent soft cheeses—some of which are available in the US only when made with pasteurized milk or are aged longer than they would be in France to meet the US requirements. One of his favorites to eat in France is St. Marcellin. "It's this bloomy rind cheese that comes in this little crock and you're supposed to bake it, and it's just beautiful," he says. "It's delicate, but there's also this kind of like complexity of flavor that you get from that raw milk." (Murray's sells a somewhat similar cheese called St. Mark's that's made with pasteurized milk.)
"Camembert de Normandie is a big favorite of mine," Montez says. "I would say in France it has a longer shelf life because with that raw milk the flavors continue to develop in a way that a pasteurized version doesn't—the pasteurized ones will just taste off after a while."
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAnother cheese to look for in France is Abbaye de Belloc, which is made in small batches by monks. "It used to be imported into the United States and as far as I know, or at least the story I'm told—you know, the French, they love a good story, especially if it's about cheese, whether it's true or not—is that it is such a small batch cheese made by these monks in a monastery and in the 2010s there was some new paperwork they had to fill out in if they wanted to import to the US and they just didn't feel like doing the paperwork." While Montez excitedly followed up with me via email to let me know that as of this fall, Abbaye de Belloc "is back!!" in the US, it's still likely easier to find in France for now.
And if you want to taste Mimolette with its traditional hint of lemon from cheese mites, you'll need to pick that up in France too.
Drinks to Go With French CheeseA glass of French wine will generally pair well with French cheese, especially a wine from the same region as the cheese you're serving. "The classic French cheeses have almost prescribed wine pairings, and I think it's a great place to start," says Montez. "These pairings are both based in terroir—you'd have a Sancerre with a goat cheese from the Loire Valley, for example, or an Epoisses with a red Burgundy—and they are sharing aspects of the soil and climate, but so much of it is cultural too. People in that region specifically made these things to go together."
But Montez says that there's no reason not to "mix and match" a little bit too. He's been surprised by how well certain frowned-upon pairings can work. For example, some people will say you shouldn't have spirits with cheese because it'll dull the palate. "I think there's a cheese for every beverage out there," he says, and "I have had surprising moments of pairing something delicate like a fresh goat cheese with a peated Scotch. You wouldn't expect it to work. The traditional advice tells you that something like a Scotch is going to totally blow out the palate and you won't be able to taste a delicate goat cheese but it brought out this lemony, citrus note in the cheese. The best thing to do is play around and see. The palate is always going to know if it worked or not."
Accompaniments for French CheeseAs noted above, most French cheeses can be eaten straight-up, no crackers or any other accompaniments necessary. That said, a baguette is certainly a very traditional pairing, and can help ferry those particularly oozy soft cheeses to your mouth. Crackers are less common, but acceptable, and a mild cracker can act as a palate cleanser between cheeses, as well.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPreserved cherries, whether whole or in a spread, are a classic French cheese plate addition, especially as a pairing for Basque cheeses and goat cheeses, Montez says. Cornichons are another classic accompaniment if you want to take things in a more savory route. "Other than that, the only traditional thing you are going to see across the board is honey, especially with those fresher cheeses." Montez says. He would opt for a lighter honey, which you can leave in the jar or put in a bowl with a little spoon for drizzling.
If you want to add some meat to your board, a dry-aged leg of ham such as Jambon de Bayonne is nice with the harder cheeses, while an uncured Jambon de Paris is an excellent everyday ham that can go on a cheese plate or into sandwiches. Saucisson sec, a dry-aged sausage, is another classic cheese board pick. Fresh in-season fruit such as cherries or pears or dried fruits are also nice on a cheese board.
But don't be shy about just tucking right into completely unadorned wedges of cheese. "What I always find with French cheese plates is that the focus is so much on the cheese. You might have one or two little things that you might snack alongside, but it's not the kind of overwhelming amount of accompaniments that we see on Instagram—these grazing tables and cornucopias," says Montez. "There's nothing wrong with eating just straight-up cheese."
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowI started using reusable drinking straws in 2015 when a friend gave me a glass straw for my birthday. I loved that straw and used it daily until a year later, it shattered into smithereens against my mason jar. (Fun fact: Glass straws can accumulate tiny nicks that eventually compromise the straw’s structural integrity.)
Since then, I’ve tried all sorts of reusable straws: flexible silicone straws, stainless steel straws, and “all-natural” bamboo straws. I’ve learned a lot about what makes a good straw, but after misplacing an old favorite, I wanted to find the best reusable straw. To do so, I tested 15 of them, using the straws to drink lots of cold water, iced tea, and thick smoothies. I found five winners that won’t leave you thirsty for more.
The Winners, at a GlanceThese straws are easy to keep clean—metal doesn’t stain—and they have a handy carrying case, so you can take them wherever your iced drink adventures bring you. The silicone topper makes them easier and comfier to sip from.
These straws were sturdy and did not remind me of floppy worms! (I could not say the same for other silicone straws.) Most of the silicone options I tested were too narrow to accommodate a thick smoothie, but these had no problem.
Bamboo straws stain easily and aren’t as durable as metal or silicone. But if you like their appearance and texture, the ibambo straws are a good buy. They had a smoother finish than the other bamboo options I tested, and the cleaning brush was fantastic.
There isn’t much variance between brands of glass straws. They break easily, of course, but look nice in a smoothie glass and don’t stain. This set comes with both straight and bent straws.
The GIR straws came with a carrying case that could fit in the “tiny pocket” of my jeans. The straws are thin and supremely bendy, and the cleaning squeegee worked well. You can choose from three color sets, and they’re dishwasher-safe.
The TestsNarrow straws failed miserably in the smoothie test.Serious Eats / Rochelle Bilow Cold Water Test: I filled a drinking glass with ice water and popped in a straw. I let it sit for three minutes, then drank from the straw, noting if it had become uncomfortably cold. * On the Go Test: To determine how well the straws played with to-go lids, I took them to a coffee shop and ordered an iced tea. I inserted the straw into the lid’s opening, noting whether it punctured the lid easily or had to be forced in. * Smoothie Test:* I made a thick smoothie with banana, peanut butter, and spinach. I used the straw to drink the smoothie, observing if the straw’s diameter was wide enough to accommodate the viscous liquid. Once I finished, I let the straw sit in the glass for three hours. I hand-washed the straw, using the included brush or cleaning wand, and noted if it was easy to scrub off the crusted-on smoothie.
What We LearnedThe Most Versatile Reusable Straws Were at Least 0.3 Inches WideThe Koffie Straw is very narrow—too narrow for smoothies!Serious EatsIf you only use straws for water and other thin liquids, you don’t need to worry about a straw that’s wide enough to handle thicker stuff. But smoothie drinkers will appreciate a straw with a 0.3-inch—or wider—opening. My winning straw, the OXO Good Grips Stainless Steel Straw and Brush Set, had a generous 0.5-inch diameter. The ibambo Bamboo Reusable Straws squeaked by with a paltry 0.25-inch diameter opening, although that was just the product’s official measurement. Some of the straws in the package I received were wider, owing to the natural variations in bamboo.
The Best Straws Combined Metal and SiliconeMetal straws get cold quickly. Silicone toppers make them more comfortable to sip from.Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowMetal straws ticked all of my boxes: durable, safe to drink from, dishwasher-safe, and stain-resistant. But the metal didn’t feel good against my teeth, and it turned uncomfortably cold in ice water or iced tea. The best straws were made of metal with a silicone topper. The OXO straws were an outstanding example of this design, with a snug-fitting top that could be slid off or adjusted for a taller or shorter straw. The Zoku Reusable Straw with Travel Case had a silicone topper, but it was too small to be useful. The Kleen Kanteen Stainless Steel Straw Setalso featured silicone caps, but they were long and floppy—not easy to drink from!
10 Inches Was a Convenient Length8-inch reusable straws are good for sipping at home, but 10-inch straws are better for large to-go cups.Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowMost straws I tested were 10 inches long—ideal for medium and large sizes of to-go cups, and highball-style glasses. As you'll see in most of the pictures in this review, 10 inches looks silly-long in most of my drinking glasses, but overall I think it's better to have a too-big straw. Two of my winners—the ibambo Bamboo Reusable Straws and GIR Reusable Silicone Straws—were a petite eight inches, which could fall short in a 16-ounce iced coffee. But they'd be a better choice for kids or mixed drinks.
Oval Silicone Straws Were a Miss, but Angled Bottoms Were GreatAngled reusable straw bottoms help get every last drop of a smoothie.Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowThe silicone straws I tested had either circular or oval openings. The oval openings were a clever idea in theory: They’re meant to slide easily into the small openings of to-go lids. But in practice, they were unpleasant to sip from, and it was tough to suck a smoothie through their small openings. The Koffie Straw in particular was miserable with a peanut butter smoothie. Cleaning them was also tough—especially if they weren’t washed straight away. Most of the straws fit in the to-go lids just fine, so an oval shape wasn’t necessary.
Some of the silicone straws had angled bottoms, which were very helpful in slurping up the last few drops from a cup. This design wasn't found on any of the bamboo, metal, or glass straws, so if sipping every ounce of smoothie from your cup is important to you, get a silicone straw, like the Flathead Bent Reusable Straws.
Bamboo Straws Were Sometimes Rough Around the EdgesBamboo straws should be smooth, but some we tested had splintered edges.Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowNatural bamboo straws look appealing, and they’re touted as a more eco-friendly option (most are biodegradable). But they stain easily, a fact I noticed in an unofficial follow-up test with a blackberry shake. They’re also the most “naturally flavored,” and they imparted a woody taste to the water, iced tea, and smoothie. More concerningly, the Bambaw bamboo straws were cracked and splintered around the edges straight out of the box. The ibambo straws had smoother edges, but there was a big variance in width.
All of the Glass Straws Were FineMost glass straws are indistinguishable from one another.Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowThere isn’t much room for innovation when it comes to glass straws: They’re all pretty much the same. The glass straws I tested were thick and had wide openings. Dried-on smoothie was easy to wash off. In fact, I couldn’t find any discernible differences between the Hiware and JimJim straws beyond the fact that the JimJims are now unavailable. However, I am relentlessly tough on glassware and worry it’d be only a matter of time before all of my glass straws shattered. The less accident-prone among us can enjoy glass straws without fear.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Reusable StrawSerious Eats / Rochelle BilowThe best reusable straws were comfortable to drink from, durable, and could be cleaned easily. Taking your straw on the go? You’ll want one with a carrying case. For medium- and large-sized cups, 10 inches was an ideal length, but eight inches worked just fine for sipping at home. If you want a metal straw, look for one with a removable silicone topper. Silicone straws should have rounded openings and angled bottoms, and shouldn’t be too floppy. The best bamboo straws are relatively uniform in size and shape, with no splinters at the edges. Glass straws should be made of borosilicate glass, which is strong.
Our Favorite Reusable StrawsWhat we liked: These metal straws are durable, dishwasher-safe, and very sturdy. The silicone top slid on easily and could be adjusted for a taller straw. The topper was strong, and never flopped around. The straws come with a carrying case and the cleaning brush is well-designed, with a handle at the end for better leverage. (The brush also fits inside the case.) After testing all of the straws, this is the one I opted to keep for everyday use.
What we didn’t like: The silicone topper was prone to picking up scents and flavors, so you’ll want to hand-wash it and use an unscented dish detergent. They’re pretty pricey for just two straws.
Key Specs Material: Stainless steel, silicone * Style: Straight * Length: 10.5 inches * Diameter: 0.5 inches * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowWhat we liked: These silicone straws are just the right thickness for a sturdy-yet-squishable straw. (If you like to bite or chew on straws, you’ll likely find this one very palatable.) The bottom of the straw is angled—a smart feature for getting the last few drops of whatever you’re drinking. It was particularly helpful with my smoothie. They’re 0.3 inches in diameter, which is plenty wide for most shakes and smoothies. The seams that run along the top and bottom of the straws are thin and discrete. The set includes a drawstring carrying case.
What we didn’t like: Because the straws are bent, they’re harder to clean with the brush. The brand’s logo is stamped onto the top portion of the straw, which wasn’t a big deal but felt a bit weird in my mouth (although that’s the norm with silicone straws). These cost almost $25 for 10 straws, which is more than most people need.
Key Specs Material: Silicone * Length: 10 inches * Style: Bent * Diameter: 0.3 inches * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe (although hand-washing is ideal to minimize scent pickup)
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowWhat we liked: The ibambo straws had a lightly lacquered finish that resisted staining and scents. It also made the straws nice to drink from. (The other bamboo straw I tested, the Bambaw, had a rough, splintered texture.) The included bristle brush was one of the best I tried, with lots of long, fluffy bristles.
What we didn’t like: The straws varied wildly in terms of thickness, but that’s because they’re made from real bamboo stalks. They shouldn’t be soaked, so you’ll want to clean them right after use to avoid crusted-on smoothies or lingering flavors. They’re a little short for 16-ounce to-go cups.
Key Specs Material: Bamboo * Length: 8 inches * Style: Straight * Diameter: 0.25 * Care instructions:* Hand-wash
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowWhat we liked: This set includes two straight and two bent straws. They’re 10 inches long, which works well with highball and tall glasses. The cleaning straw is great, and because the straws are totally clear, you can see and get rid of stuck-on debris. I had no problem cleaning them, no matter how much smoothie became caked on.
What we didn’t like: Like all glass straws, these are highly breakable. They’ll accumulate tiny, invisible-to-the-eye nicks and dings, which will make them less safe to use over time.
Key Specs Material: Borosilicate glass * Length: 10 inches * Style: Bent and straight * Diameter: 0.4 inches * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe, but hand-washing is recommended
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowWhat we liked: These straws were super fun to fold and pack away! They nestle into a small carrying case roughly the size and shape of an earbud holder. The set includes five straws, which gave me a nice range of color choices but didn’t take up space in a drawer. Although I was initially skeptical of the silicone squeegee, it worked really well on crusted-on spinach bits. If you don’t like this size, you can buy similar styles from GIR in extra wide, cocktail glass, and kid-friendly sizes.
What we didn’t like: These straws are definitely floppier. That’s intentional—they have to be flexible so they can fold into the carrying case—but people who prefer a sturdier straw will want to look elsewhere. The silicone case picked up pet hairs and mysterious bottom-of-the-tote-bag confetti. They’re on the shorter side.
Key Specs Material: Silicone * Length: 8 inches * Style: Straight * Diameter: 0.3 inches * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe (although hand-washing is ideal to minimize scent-pickup)
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowThe Competition* Kleen Kanteen Stainless Steel Straw Set: The Kleen Kanteen straws took the silicone topper directive too far: They featured a straight metal straw with a very flexible, very floppy bent silicone mouthpiece. They were awkward to drink from, although I did like the bright primary colors of the silicone toppers. * ALINK Stainless Steel Straws: With no silicone sheath, I cringed every time my teeth clinked against these straws’ stainless steel. They got very cold during the ice water test. * Koffie Straw: The Koffie Straw is marketed at coffee drinkers who fear teeth staining. But the lid-friendly oval mouth was unpleasant to drink from, and I couldn’t fit the cleaning brush inside. Might I suggest a whitening toothpaste instead? * JimJim Clear Glass Straws: It was a toss-up between these and the glass straw winners, the Hiware—until I learned that the JimJims were no longer available. * Bambaw Bamboo Reusable Straws: These straws were poorly manufactured. A few had cracks and splinters around the mouth, and their thickness and diameter varied widely from straw to straw. * Nightingale Reusable Silicone Straws: Although this set earned points for its firm, stable construction, the mouth was more flat than round and was difficult to drink a smoothie from. (This design, like the Koffie Straw, is made to be used with a disposable to-go cup’s lid. An interesting idea, but ultimately not that useful.) I disliked the heavy seams running along the top and bottom of the entire straw. Although that was a feature shared by all silicone straws, these were particularly pronounced. * Softy Straws: As far as silicone straws go, these were fine. But the extra-long, notched cleaning squeegee was a nightmare to use. Rumor has it I still haven’t been able to extract it from the middle of one of my test straws. * Zoku Reusable Straw with Travel Case: This collapsible metal straw hit many of my marks—it had a (small) silicone topper, a cleaning brush, and a carrying case that wasn’t much bigger than a tube of lip balm. But it had a habit of collapsing while I was using it, a betrayal I simply couldn’t forgive.
FAQsWhat’s the best way to clean a reusable straw?It depends on the type of straw. Metal straws are dishwasher-safe, but you should remove any silicone parts before running them through a cycle because silicone traps and holds onto scents and flavors (dishwasher detergent doesn’t pair well with iced tea.) Bamboo, silicone, and glass straws should be hand-washed. Avoid soaking bamboo straws to minimize warping. The inside of all straws should be cleaned with a cleaning brush—most come with one, but you can buy them online for cheap.
Are plastic straws bad for the environment?Plastic straws contribute to land and ocean pollution, although they’re not the sole culprit. Plastic bags and single-use plastic packaging also contribute to the problem. Small plastic particles (microplastics) are absorbed by soil, animals, and humans. Beyond being harmful (obviously) to the environment, microplastics can make their way into humans who consume seafood and salt. That said, microplastics have been proven to be present pretty much everywhere, including tap water and produce.
Are reusable straws better for the environment?Potentially. As with reusable napkins, the material sourcing and production practices matter. It’s also important to minimize your waste, so if you do choose to buy a reusable straw, keep it in good condition and use it for as long as you can. An eco-friendly version of any product loses its green shine if it’s quickly discarded into a landfill.
Why We’re the Experts* Rochelle Bilow is a commerce editor at Serious Eats. Before joining the team, Rochelle freelanced for the site. * She has been writing about food professionally for 15 years, and has been reviewing appliances and cooking equipment for Serious Eats for three years. Her recent reviews include dishwashing gloves and waffle makers. * For this review, Rochelle tested 13 straws, evaluating them on their performance in smoothies, iced tea, and to-go cups.
Serious Eats / Reese HerringtonWe’re committed to finding our readers the very best deals on the very best kitchen gear, so we’d be remiss to not bring your attention to Amazon’s secret kitchen outlet, a little-known section on Amazon filled with overstock and clearance items. We sorted through the pages of sales to round up the 10 best deals, including the most powerful Vitamix smart blender, the best Instant air fryer we’ve tested, and a festive fall Staub pumpkin baking dish—all for up to 48% off.
The Best Amazon Kitchen Outlet Deals, at a Glance: The Best Smart Blender: Vitamix A3500 Ascent Series Smart Blender * The Best Air Fryer: Instant Vortex Plus 6-Quart Air Fryer * The Best Budget Food Processor: Cuisinart 9-Cup Food Processor * A Festive Fall Staub Baking Dish: Staub 0.5-Quart Petite Ceramic Pumpkin Baking Dish * The Best Budget Indoor Pizza Oven: Cuisinart Indoor Pizza Oven * The Best Small Waffle Maker: Dash Mini Waffle Maker * The Most Comfortable Ice Cream Scooper: KitchenAid Gourmet Ice Cream Scoop * The Best Pepper Grinder: Peugeot Paris Manual Pepper Mill * The Best Thermos: Zojirushi Insulated Stainless Steel Mug * A Tried-and-True Paring Knife:* Victorinox Serrated Paring Knife
Vitamix A3500 Ascent Series Smart BlenderAmazonThis blender delivers the powerful blending we know and love from Vitamix, but with additional bells and whistles like automated presets, an LED touchscreen, and a built-in timer. Right now, it’s $100 off.
Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesInstant Vortex Plus 6-Quart Air FryerAmazonOver years of testing, the Instant Pot Vortex Plus has been our favorite air fryer time and time again. Simply put: It produces the crispiest fries and the crunchiest chicken wings. This Instant Vortex Plus is on sale and even has an upgraded clear window for tracking your food’s progress.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreCuisinart 9-Cup Food ProcessorAmazonWhen we tested food processors, Cuisinart’s 14-cup model was our top budget pick. It powerfully chopped through every test we threw at it and makes for a great affordable option. This similar 9-cup model is now on sale and is ideal for smaller kitchens.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonStaub 0.5-Quart Petite Ceramic Pumpkin Baking DishAmazonWe’re in the thick of fall and what better way to celebrate than with a pumpkin-shaped baking dish? Staub makes our favorite baking dish, and this lidded ceramic pumpkin offers the same even heat retention and distribution. Plus, it’s 40% off.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyCuisinart Indoor Pizza OvenAmazonAlready a fraction of the price of our favorite indoor pizza ovens from Ooni and Breville, this Cuisinart indoor pizza oven is now even more affordable at $100 off. It impressed us by getting up to 725°F and producing nicely charred pizza crusts.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreDash Mini Waffle MakerAmazonWe couldn’t help but shout out this $13 mini waffle maker in our waffle maker review. It’s ideal for casual waffle consumers who like an individual waffle every once in a while.
Serious Eats / Eric BrockobKitchenAid Gourmet Ice Cream ScoopAmazonThanks to its extra-long and ergonomically designed handle, this was the most comfortable ice cream scoop we tested. The oval head also carved out beautiful scoops. Grab one on sale ahead of all the ice cream scooping you’ll do for those apple or pumpkin pie slices.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyPeugeot Paris Manual Pepper MillAmazonThis pepper mill is speedy, consistent, and comfortable to hold. It also looks great on a kitchen countertop and is now on sale for 35% off.
Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinZojirushi Insulated Stainless Steel MugAmazonThis Zojirushi mug impressed us by keeping its contents piping hot (or ice cold) for over eight hours. It’s also easy to carry and smooth to sip from. Right now, it’s a whopping 48% off at Amazon’s kitchen outlet.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubVictorinox Serrated Paring KnifeAmazonThe humble-yet-mighty paring knife is essential to cooks. We’ve been fans of Victorinox paring knives for years thanks to their durability and affordability. This serrated version is on sale for just $12.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayFAQsWhat else can I get at Amazon’s outlet section?Amazon’s secret outlet section also has deals on other product categories, like home and furniture, outdoor and patio, and more.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * An has been testing kitchen gear for Serious Eats for nearly two years.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo understand how I became the dessert enthusiast I am today, you’d have to meet my mother, who is always in the mood for something sweet. Throughout my childhood, she made it a mission to introduce my sisters and me to whatever confection she felt like eating on a given day. She brought home boxes of tender madeleines, airy cream puffs, and slices of Opera cake, among many other delicious sweets. My favorite, however, was (and remains) mille-feuille, the classic French dessert that typically consists of three layers of crisp, delicate puff pastry stacked with vanilla pastry cream and is topped with a dusting of confectioners’ sugar. I loved the cake so much that, for my birthday each year, my mom skipped the standard yellow cake with chocolate frosting and got me a large mille-feuille instead. I’m not sure when this family tradition started, but to this day, it’s still my special occasion dessert of choice.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUnfortunately, it can be difficult to find a truly great mille-feuille with shatteringly crisp pastry and velvety pastry cream, even in New York City. The truth is that the dessert does not store well—even if a skilled chef makes and serves it, it doesn’t hold up for long, and more often than not, the cake is soft by the time it’s made its way to a customer. Which is why I’ve taken to making my own at home: It seems to be the only way I can guarantee that the mille-feuille I’m eating will be crisp and fresh, with no soggy bottoms in sight. Though mille-feuille may look challenging to prepare, it’s much easier when you break the pastry down into its two main components: the puff pastry and the pastry cream. Here’s how to make a stellar one at home.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezGetting the Pastry Right for Mille-Feuille“Mille-feuille” means a thousand leaves, and refers to the ultra-thin sheets of pastry that are created when you prepare puff pastry. The process involves layering butter and dough together, then folding and rolling it over several times to “laminate” the dough. As the dough bakes, the butter melts, creating pockets of steam that lift the pastry and create its signature layers.
You could certainly make your own puff pastry from scratch, but I recommend saving yourself the time here by buying store-bought dough instead. Since this dessert contains little more than puff pastry and pastry cream, it’s worth looking for a good-quality dough that’s made with butter (like Dufour Classic Puff Pastry), which will be much more flavorful than pastry that’s made with palm, soybean, and/or vegetable oil.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBeyond purchasing the right kind of pastry, it’s also essential to bake it properly. For mille-feuille, we want pastry that’s crisp, flaky, and light, but also sturdy enough to carry the weight of the pastry cream. We also want flat, consistent layers of puff pastry, which can be difficult because the dough is meant to, well, puff. The solution is to dock the dough all over with a fork, then sandwich it between two rimmed baking sheets. Because my puff pastry still tended to rise even with the docking and the sandwiching, I recommend weighing down the top baking sheet with two pounds of dried beans, which help keep the dough as flat as possible.
For the Best Filling, Make a Proper Pastry CreamI want to be clear: I am all for shortcuts that deliver a great result with significantly less effort. That's why I just recommended you buy the puff pastry. I will not be making the same recommendation for the pastry cream. There is a time and place for custard mix or powder, and now is not that time. Once again, because this dessert is, at its core, so simple and consists of just puff pastry and pastry cream, you want both components to be the very best, and you simply can't achieve that with boxed custard.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe key to making a great pastry cream is to cook it adequately by allowing it to bubble for a full minute—not doing so out of fear of scrambling the eggs is probably one of the biggest pastry cream mistakes people make. This minute of cooking not only thickens the custard by gelatinizing the cornstarch, but it also deactivates amylase, a powerful enzyme in the egg yolks that can break down starch molecules and turn your pastry cream into an unappetizing puddle after it sits.
As for scrambling the eggs, have no fear: The milk dilutes the egg proteins, making it more difficult for them to bond to each other as you whisk your pastry cream on the stove. That doesn't mean the eggs can't scramble, but with gentle heat and constant whisking around the entire pot, it shouldn't happen. Lastly, I recommend using a real vanilla bean or vanilla paste here if possible, as its flavor is much more robust than extract, but if vanilla extract is all you have, that will be fine.
How to Slice Mille-FeuilleAlternating layers of crackly-crisp pastry and soft and spreadable pastry cream can present a problem when it comes time to slice it, and while a smushed and crushed plate of what used to be mille-feuille will still be delicious, a lot of its visual impact will be lost. Let's avoid that!
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCalm confidence is the secret to neatly portioning an entire slab of mille-feuille. Your best bet is to use a serrated knife, as its many teeth will make easy work of sawing through the many layers of puff pastry without compressing them down into the pastry cream below and triggering a full-blown structural collapse. Make sure to slide the serrated knife back and forth where you want to cut while using your free hand to stabilize the pastry; it's important not to press down hard onto the pastry as you slice, or you risk squishing it. Once you've made your way through to the bottom, gently but firmly press the knife down to separate the bottom layer of puff pastry from the rest of the cake. For the cleanest cuts, dip your knife in hot water and wipe it dry between each portioning each slice.
There will be a delicious reward for you at the end of all that slicing: a piece of celebration-worthy mille-feuille. (Worth noting: It will also be excellent if you have nothing to celebrate.)
For the Pastry Cream: In a 6-quart pot, combine milk and scraped vanilla bean along with its seeds. Bring to a bare simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat, cover to prevent evaporation, and let steep for 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIn a large bowl, set up an ice bath by partially filling it with a combination of cold water and ice. Set aside.
In a medium heatproof mixing bowl set on top of a dampened towel (this serves as a stable base), stir together sugar, cornstarch, and salt. Whisk in egg yolks until mixture is pale yellow, smooth, and fluffy, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikUncover infused milk and remove vanilla bean. While whisking continuously, slowly pour milk into egg yolk mixture in a thin stream, until all of it has been added.
Return mixture to the same pot. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly until pastry cream begins to thicken, about 7 minutes. Once it thickens, continue to whisk, pausing every few seconds to check for bubbles, about 1 minute. Once bubbling, continue whisking for 1 minute.
Off-heat, whisk in butter until melted and thoroughly combined. Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain pastry cream into a large heatproof bowl. Immediately place plastic wrap directly on surface of the cream to prevent a skin from forming. Transfer bowl to prepared ice bath to chill for 30 minutes, then refrigerate until cold, about 2 hours.
For the Puff Pastry: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 400ºF (205ºC). Line three 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheets with parchment; set aside. On a lightly floured surface, roll one 14-ounce sheet of puff pastry into a rough 13- by 18-inch rectangle about 1/8-inch thick. Gently roll dough onto rolling pin and transfer to a prepared baking sheet. Using a fork, prick pastry all over. Lightly cover dough with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 24 hours. Repeat with remaining puff pastry.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRemove plastic wrap from puff pastry and cover dough with a sheet of parchment paper. Top with another 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet. Set a piece of parchment paper inside the rimmed baking sheet on top and cover evenly with 2 pounds dried beans. Bake until pastry begins to rise, about 15 minutes; open oven and, using oven mitts, press down on baking sheets to deflate puff pastry if necessary. Bake for another 10 minutes. Using oven mitts, carefully remove top baking sheet; set aside. Return puff pastry to oven and continue baking until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove pastry from oven, set aside to cool completely, and repeat with remaining puff pastry.
To Assemble: Using a serrated knife, trim each layer of puff pastry to a 10- by 12- inch rectangle. Place one sheet of puff pastry onto a large cutting board. Remove chilled pastry cream from fridge and whisk until smooth. Fit a piping bag with desired tip, and using a flexible spatula, scrape pastry cream into piping bag.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezHold the piping bag perpendicular to the puff pastry, with the piping tip 1/4- to 1/2-inch above its surface. Apply steady pressure and slowly pipe a small dollop of pastry cream onto puff pastry. Release your grip, then slowly lift piping bag to create a dollop shaped like a Hershey kiss; repeat until puff pastry is evenly covered with pastry cream. (Alternatively, use an offset spatula to evenly spread a 1/2-inch layer of pastry cream across puff pastry.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezGently place second sheet of puff pastry on top of pastry cream dollops. Repeat piping on top of second layer, then top with third sheet of puff pastry, gently pressing to adhere, making sure pastry cream doesn’t ooze out the sides. Refrigerate until pastry cream firms up slightly, at least 1 hour or up to 12.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo Serve: Using a fine-mesh strainer, dust confectioners sugar over surface of pastry. Using a serrated knife, slice cake into 12 pieces and serve. (For cleaner cuts, run knife under warm water and dry knife with a clean kitchen towel before portioning each slice.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentFine-mesh strainer, two 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet, serrated knife, piping bag, piping tip
NotesCut vanilla bean in half lengthwise. Using tip of paring knife, scrape out seeds. 1 tablespoon vanilla extract or 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla paste can be substituted for the vanilla bean.
Make-Ahead and StoragePastry cream can be made up to 1 day in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container.
Mille-feuille can be assembled, lightly wrapped in plastic, and refrigerated up to 12 hours in advance; the pastry may soften as it sits.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSteak frites is classic French bistro fare at its finest, and it pulls at my American steak-and-potatoes-lovin’ heartstrings. This combination of a well-crusted flap of beef with a thatch of frites, served in combination with a flood of sauce, makes for my favorite kind of eating, elegant and casual at once.
Its origins trace back to both France and Belgium, and it is a mainstay in the cuisine of both countries, as well as bistros worldwide. And although it may seem like a simple dish (after all, it requires only two main ingredients, plus a sauce of your choice), there’s good reason it’s usually reserved for restaurants: the steak must be meaty and juicy, the potatoes fluffy and crisp, the sauce rich and creamy enough for dipping, and it must all arrive at the table piping hot. It’s a dish that requires some kitchen savvy to nail at home.
The key to recreating bistro-worthy steak frites at home is using the best ingredients, relying on foolproof cooking methods, and coordinating the timing of cooking in the kitchen to guarantee hot, perfectly cooked food. Here’s my guide and tips for cooking every component to ensure great results.
The SteakThe first step when making steak frites at home is selecting the right cut of beef. But really there’s no “right” cut of beef for steak frites, as the cut of meat can vary from restaurant to restaurant. Many French bistros will prioritize flavor over tenderness, offering cuts like onglet (hanger steak), tri-tip, rump steak, or even flank steak, which are chewier and leaner cuts that burst with beefiness.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThere’s also the cost factor. Neighborhood French bistros, which by nature serve more affordable, everyday food, wouldn’t generally ask their diners to shell out the money for entrecôte, or premium cuts of beef like tender, fatty ribeye or a prime strip steak. But when I cook steak frites at home, I'm not paying the markup one would at a restaurant. That means I see this as an opportunity to treat myself to a perfectly cooked rib eye or strip steak, so I’ve written this recipe for those specific cuts. Keep in mind though that you can use any cut of beef you prefer here, just be aware that the thinner the steak, the shorter the cooking time, and you’ll need to follow the visual and temperature cues more closely than the listed timing in the recipe.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor cooking the steaks, I use Serious Eats' time-tested perfect pan-seared steaks technique. It’s simple and straightforward, just like any good bistro recipe should be. The steaks are liberally salted and brought to room temperature before they’re seared over ripping high heat in a cast iron, carbon steel, or stainless-steel pan, flipping every two minutes to ensure even cooking and a deeply browned crust. But as the saying goes, “there’s more than one way to skin a cat”, and again I’ll echo that you can adapt this recipe to your own taste, and use a different cooking method if you prefer, such as our reverse-seared, butter-basted, or sous vide steak recipes.
Once the steaks are cooked, set them aside on a plate to rest while preparing the accompanying sauce and french fries. The fries and the sauce cook in about 25 minutes, which means your steaks will be resting, and ultimately losing heat during that time. You might be tempted to tent them with aluminum foil to keep them warm, but don’t. Tenting the steaks will only trap steam and soften that beautiful crust on the steaks that you worked hard to create. Instead, let the steak sit untouched. After the fries and sauce are ready, if the steaks are cool to the touch, just transfer them to a rimmed baking sheet and flash them under the broiler for just a minute or two until they’re warmed through.
The SauceSteak frites isn’t defined by any specific sauce. The truth is, you could serve the steak and fries with a side of ketchup, and it will still be steak frites. But after the steaks are seared, the skillet is now filled with delicious beef fat and fond, practically screaming for a pan sauce. It would be a shame to let all those tasty browned bits stuck to the bottom of the skillet go to waste, so I encourage you to prepare a pan sauce with this recipe. My favorite to accompany steak frites is a green peppercorn sauce, which I’ve included in this recipe. It delivers a peppery bite, intensely meaty aroma, and it has the ideal food-coating creaminess, perfect for dipping your slices of steak, fries, and, eventually, fingers into.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe sauce is easy to prepare, and because it’s a cream-based sauce (and cream is a fairly stable emulsion) it can simmer away without more than the occasional stir until perfectly thickened, with little risk of the sauce breaking. I’ve written at length about the green peppercorn sauce’s preparation, so I won’t get into too much overlapping detail here. But I do want to point out that after the steaks are seared, there will be a lot of rendered beef fat left in the skillet. You want the flavorful beef fond and a little of the fat for the base of the sauce for flavor, but too much will turn the sauce greasy. So before starting the sauce, pour off all but 1 tablespoon of that fat.
If green peppercorn sauce doesn’t appeal to you, just swap in your preferred sauce. A classic black peppercorn sauce, béarnaise sauce, or even beurre maître d'hôtel, are all options.
The Fries (and How to Time This Recipe for Serving Success)As I mentioned initially, the main challenge with cooking steak frites at home isn’t cooking the individual components, rather the challenge is timing their preparation so that everything is ready at the same time. For that to happen, you will need to multitask and cook both the sauce and the fries at the same time.
Traditional fries are often prepared via a twice-fried method, in which potato sticks are dropped in preheated oil, removed to cool, then fried a second time at even higher heat until crisp. Methods like this produce excellent results, but they are not simple: They require near-constant temperature monitoring, repeated actions like scooping fries in and out of the hot oil multiple times (not to mention multiple batches in many cases), and unavoidable grease splatter when the wet potatoes hit the hot fat.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezKenji’s French fry recipe uses this general cooking method, as does Sho Spaeth’s shoestring fries. There’s no question of those being great recipes; they produce perfect fries every time, and if you prefer, you can of course use your preferred fry here (or even tear into a bag of frozen fries for ultimate ease). But when preparing fully from-scratch steak frites, I propose using a cold-start frying technique for the potatoes. This technique uses half the oil, skips the double frying, and still achieves crunchy fries with deep potato flavor. (It also minimizes mess and any scary splattering.)
I can’t take credit for creating the method, the technique has been around for a while (at least 30 years), has been written about in many publications, and is often attributed to Joël Robuchon.
In this method, the potatoes and oil begin cooking together at room temperature, totally defying all the rules of deep-frying. The potatoes are dropped all at once into a large pot—use a Dutch oven or heavy duty cast iron pot for better heat retention—with only 6 cups of oil (that’s about half the amount for standard deep frying recipes) and brought up to a bubble over high heat. As the oil temperature slowly rises, the potatoes will, in effect, poach in fat and their excess water will gently evaporate (hence the lack of splattering). Yes, the oil will bubble, but not aggressively. Eventually, beautiful golden fries will emerge, and no, they will not be any more greasy than any other French fry method.
Every now and again, use a thin-bladed spatula or cooking chopsticks to make sure they are not sticking (their starch has a tendency to cause this). Work the cooking utensil gently between the fries. Be very careful: at a certain point about halfway through cooking they will be very, very fragile—cooked but not yet crisp, and very prone to breaking.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo help mitigate fry-breakage, I add one additional preparatory step that can be done well in advance: I briefly blanch the raw, cut potatoes in water and vinegar, as Kenji does in his French fry recipe. This brief boil in acidulated water sets the potatoes pectin and rinses off excess starch, minimizing the risk of the fries sticking as they cook. If blanching the fries seems too fussy, you can skip this step, just know that the potatoes will be more prone to sticking together and breaking when frying.
Let the fries gently bubble away in the pot for about 25 minutes. As they near their end stage of cooking, they’ll no longer look like one giant potato raft, but singular golden fries will emerge.
Are these fries better than a traditionally prepared French fry? No. Will some of the fries break apart in the process? Probably. But they’re really good, very crispy freshly fried potatoes that require just one pot, one cooking session, no double frying, no electric deep-fat fryer, and no thermometer.
The best part: The cold-start fries cook in the same amount of time as the green peppercorn sauce does, about 25 minutes. You can cook the sauce and the fries side by side with a low risk of messing them up, and they’ll both be ready at the same time, guaranteeing a hot, bistro-worthy meal.
For the Steaks: Pat steaks dry with paper towels. Season liberally with salt. Allow to rest at room temperature for at least 40 minutes and up to 2 hours. Alternatively, place on a plate or on a rack over a baking sheet in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours. Remove from refrigerator at least 40 minutes before cooking.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeanwhile, for the Frites: In a 6-quart Dutch oven, add potatoes, distilled white vinegar, 3 quarts (2.8L) water, and 3 tablespoons (36g) salt. Bring to a boil over high heat and boil until potatoes are just beginning to soften and bend slightly, but not fully cooked, about 7 minutes. Drain and spread into an even layer on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet and blot dry with paper towels; set aside while cooking the steaks.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo Cook the Steaks: In a large stainless-steel, cast iron, or carbon steel skillet, heat oil over high heat until smoking. Season steaks with pepper, add to pan, and cook, flipping with tongs every 2 minutes until well browned on all sides (including edges, which you can sear by holding steaks sideways with tongs) and the internal temperature has reached 110°F (43°C) for rare or 130°F (54°C) for medium (steak will continue to cook for a bit afterward), 6 to 12 minutes depending on thickness.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd butter and optional aromatics to pan and continue to cook, flipping often, for an additional 2 minutes. Remove from pan and let rest in a warm place for at least 5 minutes before serving. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon remaining beef fat from pan and set pan aside (do not wash).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo Fry the Potatoes: Once steaks are cooked and set aside, combine the blanched potatoes, oil, and strained 1/4 cup beef fat, bacon or duck fat (if using) in a large Dutch oven. Cook over high heat until oil is bubbling vigorously, about 5 minutes (oil temperature will hover around 245℉/118℃). Reduce heat to medium-high and continue to cook, without stirring, until potatoes are limp but exteriors are beginning to firm,12 to 15 minutes (during this stage, oil should quickly but gently bubble around the fries; lower heat if bubbling too vigorously).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing a thin metal spatula or cooking chopsticks, very gently scrape under and between potatoes to loosen them and prevent sticking. Continue to cook, gently stirring to prevent sticking, until light golden and crisp, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Using a skimmer or large slotted spoon, transfer fries to a paper towel-lined plate or rimmed baking sheet. Season liberally with salt.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeanwhile, for the Green Peppercorn Sauce: While the fries are cooking, add butter to reserved fat in steak pan and melt over medium-low heat. Add peppercorns and shallot and cook, stirring frequently, until shallot is softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly, until fully combined and no lumps or raw flour smell remains, 2 minutes. Increase heat to medium and whisk in broth and brandy and a sprig of thyme. Bring to boil. Cook, whisking occasionally, until mixture reduces to 11/2 cups, 12 to 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd cream and cook, whisking occasionally, until reduced to 2 cups, about 10 minutes. Remove thyme sprig and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo Serve: If needed, reheat steaks under a preheated broiler, 1 to 2 minutes per side, and return sauce to the heat to warm through. Serve steaks with fries and green peppercorn sauce.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment12-inch cast iron, carbon steel, or stainless-steel skillet, large Dutch oven, spider skimmer
NotesAn equivalent weight of porterhouse, T-bone, tenderloin, hanger, or flank steak can be used in place of ribeye steak. Try to get steaks at least one-and-a-half inches thick. If using a thinner cut of steak, shorten cooking time accordingly.
Make sure to use European-style or French-style green peppercorns and not Thai-style green peppercorns as the flavor of the brine is slightly different.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe sauce is best enjoyed right away, but it can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days. Gently reheat in a saucepan over low heat on the stove top, whisking constantly before serving.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI am a sucker for anything presented tableside, be it Caesar salad tossed in a large wooden bowl or carbonara served from a giant wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Even more impressive is when a dish involves pyrotechnics, which means that if I see crepes Suzette on a menu, I’m ordering it. Consisting of crepes in a sauce of orange juice, butter, sugar, and orange liqueur, crepes Suzette traditionally arrives at your table via trolley, where a suit-clad waiter simmers the crepes in the sauce, adds a dash of liqueur, then sets the entire thing ablaze. It’s a dessert that elicits “oohs” and “ahhs” from other diners, and one that’s as delicious as it is impressive.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThere are many stories about the supposed origins of the crepes Suzette, but among the most popular is one told by the chef Henri Charpentier. He claims to have first made the dessert when cooking for King Edward VII, then the Prince of Wales, at the Café de Paris in Monte Carlo in 1895. In his memoir Life à Henri, Charpentier recalls that cordials of liqueur accidentally caught on fire when he was preparing the dish tableside for the royal. “I thought I was ruined,” he writes. “I tasted it. It was, I thought, the most delicious melody of sweet flavors I had ever tasted…That accident of the flame was precisely what was needed to bring all those various instruments into one harmony of taste.” According to Charpentier, the Prince of Wales had a guest with him whose name was Suzette, who Charpentier chose to name the dessert after, though other accounts of the dessert's origins that predate this one make his claim questionable at best.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor example, in an 1892 issue of Les Annales Pôlitiques et Litteréraires, a weekly magazine, both l’oeuf Suzette (eggs Suzette) and crepes Suzette are mentioned along with the claim that both recipes can be attributed to the premiere of the operetta Voyage de Suzette, which opened at the Paris Théâtre de la Gaîté in January 1890. According to the magazine, the crepes were prepared with fresh butter, vanilla sugar, orange zest, and champagne, with no mention of flambéeing. Charpentier may not have come up with the original idea, but it’s possible that he added his own flair with the accidental flame.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAs fancy and intimidating as crepes Suzette sounds, the dessert is actually remarkably easy to prepare at home. Like Kenji, I use a blender to whip up the crepe batter quickly, then I cook the crepes in a nonstick pan (though you can also use a crepe pan, if you have one). As tempting as it is to make the sauce in the same pan you use to make the crepes, flambéeing may damage the nonstick coating. I recommend using a nonreactive pan like a stainless steel skillet for preparing the sauce and flambéeing it.
After I make the crepes, I fold them up and set them aside, making them easier to slip into the sauce and serve afterwards. The sauce itself is the star of the dish: To make it, I melt butter, then whisk in freshly squeezed orange juice, salt, and a flavorful orange sugar I make by quickly macerating orange zest with granulated sugar (more on that below). I bring the sauce to a simmer, cook it until it’s slightly thickened and reduced, then add the folded crepes, making sure to evenly coat them in the sauce. All that’s left to do is to set it all on fire—which is as cathartic and satisfying as it sounds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBelow, I'll explain the main techniques to help you make superb crepes Suzette at home.
Is It Necessary to Rest Your Crepe Batter?In culinary school, my French instructors insisted it was absolutely necessary to rest your crepe batter for at least an hour or, preferably, overnight, as they believed it would give the gluten a chance to rest. In his basic crepes recipe, Kenji noted that resting the crepe batter did not produce more flavorful crepes—however, he didn’t address the question of texture. To see if resting made a difference, I prepared two batters. I whizzed up one batch of batter the night before, which rested for about 12 hours, and another right before cooking.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile Kenji is correct that the overnight rest does little for flavor, I found that resting did, indeed, produce more tender crepes. The difference, however, is marginal enough that I don’t think it’s absolutely necessary to rest your batter. The fresh batter still made delicious crepes, they were just ever so slightly more rubbery. While I’ve included resting as an option, it certainly isn’t a must.
The Simple Upgrade for More Flavorful Crepes SuzetteTraditional crepe Suzette recipes call for both orange zest and sugar. Adding zest to the sauce makes sense—it contains fragrant oils that deliver much of an orange's signature scent and flavor, enhancing the overall oranginess of the sauce beyond what the juice and orange liqueur can offer. Still, the sauce is cooked quickly enough that just adding zest to the sauce doesn't take full advantage of all the fragrance it can impart. By taking just a few extra minutes to rub the zest into the sugar, I'm able to draw out the peel’s potent oils, giving the dessert an even more intense burst of citrus flavor.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile orange zest doesn’t typically show up in the crepe batter itself, it felt like a lost opportunity to not include the orange-scented macerated sugar in the crepes, too. To see if it really made a difference, I prepared two batches of crepes suzette: one with macerated sugar, and one with sugar and orange zest added separately. While both versions were delicious, the batch made with the macerated sugar had much bolder citrus flavor than the batch made without the macerated sugar. It's one of those small but impactful techniques that takes a classic recipe and makes it even better.
How to Safely Flambé With ConfidenceI like to flambé the traditional way: by tilting the pan slightly so the flame ignites the alcohol in the pan. But if that feels too intimidating or you aren’t working over a gas flame, you can use a match, long-handled lighter or kitchen blowtorch to ignite the sauce instead. A word of caution: Always use a measured amount of alcohol and never pour alcohol directly from the bottle into the pan. As Daniel touched on in his cherries jubilee recipe, the flames can jump up, lighting up the entire bottle in your hand. And if you don’t feel like lighting your food on fire, simply add the alcohol and simmer the sauce for several minutes until the alcohol has cooked off and the sauce has reduced.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Orange Sugar: In a small bowl, combine granulated sugar with orange zest. Using your fingers, rub them together until mixture is fragrant and well combined, about 30 seconds. Set aside for 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Crepe Batter: In a blender, combine eggs, whole milk, vanilla extract, melted butter, 1 tablespoon of the prepared orange sugar, and salt. Blend until smooth, about 10 seconds. Add flour and 1 tablespoon of orange and sugar mixture. Start blender on low speed and gradually increase to high, and blend until smooth, about 20 seconds. (See notes for instructions on preparing the batter without a blender.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo Cook the Crepes: In a 10-inch nonstick skillet or crepe pan, melt 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat, swirling to coat pan. Tip out excess butter and reserve. While holding the pan’s handle in one hand, pour in 3 to 4 tablespoons (45 to 60ml) batter into center of the pan, swirling and tilting pan immediately to spread batter into a thin, even layer.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLet cook until top of crepe looks dry, about 20 seconds. Using a flexible rubber spatula, gently lift one edge of crepe. Using your fingers, carefully flip crepe. Cook on second side for 10 seconds, then transfer to a large plate or rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with remaining batter. When crepes have cooled, fold into quarters by folding each crepe in half, then folding in half again. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Sauce: In a 10-inch nonreactive skillet (such as stainless steel), melt butter over medium heat. Add remaining 1/4 cup orange sugar, salt, and orange juice, stirring to combine. Bring to a simmer, and allow sauce to cook until slightly thickened and has reduced by about 1/3, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat to low.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWorking with 1 crepe at a time, use tongs to gently dip both sides of folded crepe into sauce, then release into the sauce. Repeat with remaining crepes. Add orange liqueur and tilt pan to ignite alcohol from a gas burner, and cook, shaking the pan, until flames have died out and sauce thickens slightly, about 1 minute. (Alternatively, use a long-handled lighter or kitchen torch, carefully ignite sauce.) Spoon sauce over crepes and serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentBlender, 10-inch nonstick skillet or crepe pan, flexible rubber spatula, 10-inch nonreactive skillet (such as stainless steel), long-handled lighter or kitchen torch
NotesTo prepare crepe batter without a blender: In a large bowl, whisk eggs, whole milk, vanilla extract, melted butter, 1 tablespoon of orange sugar, and salt together until no streaks remain. Add flour, whisking well to combine.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe crepe batter can be prepared up to 24 hours in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container. Once sauced, the crepes suzette should be eaten immediately.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis is a recipe for tête de veau with sauce gribiche for those trying to make tête de veau with sauce gribiche in the United States. Which is to say, this is not a recipe for tête de veau with sauce gribiche, but instead one for pork belly croquettes with sauce gribiche. I can explain!
Tête de veau, literally "calf's head," is a classic dish of the French kitchen, featuring a rustic hunker of wobbly poached claves head, all fatty and meaty and deliciously gelatinous. Along with it is usually a bright and punchy sauce like ravigote, a kind of mustardy and herby emulsified vinaigrette, or sauce gribiche, a rich mayonnaise built on boiled eggs and flavored with mustard, herbs, and lots of minced capers and cornichons.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI wanted to write that recipe for our readers here, but I quickly realized just what a challenge it is to even find a calf's head in the States, not to mention how a person at home would come anywhere close to eating a calf head's worth of meat (or even half a calf's head!). But fortune favors the stymied, and as it turns out I was in Paris several months ago, eating my way around the city with an eye on bistro and brasserie classics that I could develop recipes for at home. At one restaurant—Grand Brasserie—I got an idea for a solution to the veal's head problem.
There, the chef served "tête de veau" by breading and frying a torpedo of shredded calf's head, sort of like a meaty croquette, with the sauce gribiche on the side. This was something I could make work for a home cook in the States.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMy first step for adapting this to a US audience was to switch from veal to pork, since pork is easier to find and cheaper. My second step: Switch from head to pork belly. I didn't think a boiled slab of pork belly would make a great stand-in for the classic poached calf's head—the fat composition and amount of gelatinous parts are different—but I was pretty sure the meat, once boiled, shredded, and chilled, could work just as well in fried-croquette form.
So that's what I did. The process is easy to do, though it does take some time: The pork belly has to be simmered in an aromatic broth until fall-apart tender, which can take more than a few hours. Then you need to shred it, season it, and roll it in some sheets of plastic wrap into a log. The fat will melt and pool, but it's fine, there's more than enough even if a good amount seeps out.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAfter that, you chill the log of rolled, shredded pork belly until firm, which also takes many hours. At this point, it's easy to finish and serve: Just slice the chilled pork roll into pucks, dredge them in a classic breading of flour, egg, and breadcrumbs (I prefer panko), and fry them in a shallow pot of oil until golden on both sides.
Plated on generous dollops of sauce gribiche, the result looks far more refined and complicated than the actual process is. It's not an actual plate of tête de veau, but I'm pretty sure no one will complain.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large pot, combine pork belly with onion, carrot, celery, thyme, garlic, black peppercorns, and bay leaves. Add enough cold water to cover, add 1 tablespoon salt, and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Lower heat to maintain simmer and cook, topping up with extra boiling water if needed, until pork can easily be pierced with a fork, about 5 hours.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer pork to a rimmed baking sheet and let cool slightly; discard poaching liquid and aromatics. Using your hands and/or forks, shred pork belly meat and fat well. Season to taste with salt and pepper, mixing to incorporate well.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezStretch a roughly 2-foot length of plastic wrap on a work surface and transfer shredded pork to it in a long mound (it's okay if some of the liquid fat stays behind; save it for another use, like frying potatoes). Wrap plastic around the mound lengthwise; wrap with a second long sheet of plastic, if necessary, to contain the mound of shredded pork and its juices well. Holding the ends of the plastic, spin the loose cylinder to tighten the ends and compress it into a tight cylinder. Set on a clean rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate until fully set, at least 12 hours.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpread flour, egg, and panko breadcrumbs in 3 separate shallow bowls. Carefully remove plastic and slice pork roll into four roughly 1-inch thick discs (you can cut fewer discs or more, depending on your yield and how many servings you want to cook at once; refrigerate any remaining pork roll for later).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWorking with 1 disc at a time and using separate hands for the wet and dry elements of the breading, dredge the pork discs first in flour, making sure to coat it completely before shaking off excess. Then dip in egg, turning to coat. Finally, press into the panko breadcrumbs, turning the disc and using your dry hand to press them all over until fully coated. Transfer to a platter or baking sheet and repeat with remaining discs.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large cast iron pan or stainless-steel saute pan, heat about 1/2 inch oil to 340°F (170°C), then carefully lower breaded pork discs into oil and fry, turning once, until golden brown on both sides, about 8 minutes total. Transfer to paper towels to drain and season lightly with salt. (If making more pork discs at once, fry in batches and keep the earlier batches warm in a low 200°F oven).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpoon gribiche onto serving plate, spreading it in a generous circle. Set a fried pork disc on top of each plate and serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNotesThis recipe makes a sizeable enough chilled pork roll that you cut many servings from it; feel free to make as many servings as you need at a time, while reserving the remaining pork roll for later.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe pork roll can be kept wrapped and chilled in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen you think of an effortless, impressive weeknight dinner I bet the first dish that jumps into your head is trout almondine, right? Okay, probably not, but it should be. It’s a recipe that’s incredibly easy to prepare, takes just minutes to cook, and with the right technique, is impressive every time.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTrout almondine stems from amandine, the French term meaning “prepared or served with almonds.” In French cuisine, amandine is typically made with Dover sole, but it's expensive and can be difficult to find. Here in the US, particularly in New Orleans Creole cuisine, the amandine method became popular with more widely available speckled trout, although any thin white-fleshed fish will work in this recipe. During the 1960s, the amandine technique spread from New Orleans to restaurants throughout the United States, where they continued to prepare it with trout while extending the almond treatment to even more foods like green beans, flounder, and scallops.
Amandine preparation is a variation of the classic à la meunière, where a thin protein, often fish, is topped in a lemony browned butter pan sauce. It traditionally starts with dredging the seasoned fish in flour, browning it in a skillet, transferring the cooked fish to serving dishes and spooning the rich browned butter sauce, along with toasted almonds, on top. The fish, sauce, and almonds are all prepared in one skillet and the result is tender, flaky fish swimming in the most heavenly, nutty butter sauce. It’s so aromatic, your neighbors a few doors down may even smell it. Here is how to perfect it at home.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Secrets to Well-Cooked Thin Fish FilletsThe primary goal of pan-frying the fish for trout almondine is to achieve a crisped, lightly golden exterior at the same time as the interior of the fish cooks. You want gorgeous, perfectly intact fillets while avoiding overcooking the fish or having it stick to the pan. The first way to guarantee great results is to lightly dredge the fish in a starch before cooking. Traditional amondine and à la meuniere cooking methods dredge the seasoned fish in flour before cooking. This provides a dry, starchy exterior that browns more rapidly than the fish itself.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFlour works well here, but I find it can sometimes clump on the fish and remain mushy, even when the fish is well browned and properly cooked. To avoid this, I prefer to dredge the fillets in cornstarch. Once cooked, the cornstarch creates a much lighter, crispier coating on the thin fillets. I’ll admit that the fillets will not brown as much as when they are coated in flour (since cornstarch lacks the browning proteins all-purpose flour has), but the fish still takes on an appealing light golden color, and I think the benefits of the crisp texture outweigh the slight lack of browning it provides. And truth be told, once the fish is doused in the browned butter and almond sauce, the difference is mostly unnoticeable.
The thin, lean trout fillets used in this recipe are notoriously tricky to pan sear as they can stick to a pan and break easily. The best way to avoid this is to grab a nonstick skillet. If you have a very well-seasoned cast iron skillet or carbon steel skillet, you can use that instead, but if you have any question about the level of seasoning your cast iron has, it’s probably best to just use a nonstick skillet instead.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI start the fish skin-side down, and use the fish cooking technique of gently pressing them into the skillet at the start of cooking. This keeps them flat and in good contact with the pan, ensuring more even cooking. Within just a few minutes, the skin will crisp and turn lightly brown; once the flesh is opaque about halfway up the sides of each fillet, they’re ready to flip. Flip them carefully—two large spatulas come in handy here to gently lay them down without breaking—and continue cooking until the fillets are just opaque throughout.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBuilding the SauceBrowning butter and toasting almonds are two cooking techniques that get a bad rap for being fussy and easy to burn. But if you’re swirling the skillet and stirring constantly, there’s no need to fear burning them.
Maybe the biggest technical note for getting perfectly browned butter and toasted almonds at the same time has to do with the timing: It's best to give the butter a jump start in the skillet, cooking it until the the milk solids have turned a light golden color and you just start to smell that toasty browned-butter aroma. As soon as this starts, toss the sliced almonds into the pan; this way, the almonds should just be reaching the perfect toasted-nut state at the same time the butter is reaching its deeper hazelnut color.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOnce everything is well browned, immediately remove the skillet from the heat and finish the sauce with lemon juice and zest along with some parsley As you swirl these ingredients into the skillet, the butter will cool down and the risk of carry-over cooking and of burning will decrease with it.
All that’s left is spooning the crunchy almonds and browned butter sauce over the fish. It’s the easy weeknight dinner you likely didn’t know you needed, but maybe now will keep front-of-mind.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPat trout fillets dry with paper towels. Sprinkle all over with 1 teaspoon salt and pepper. In a shallow dish such as a pie plate, spread cornstarch in an even layer. Working with 1 fillet at a time, dredge both sides in the cornstarch, pressing gently to adhere. Shake off excess cornstarch and transfer to a large plate.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a 12-inch nonstick or cast iron skillet, heat 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat until just melted and beginning to bubble. Carefully place 2 fillets, skin side down, in skillet and use a thin spatula to gently press flat into the skillet; cook until lightly browned and crispy on the bottom, 2 to 4 minutes. Using 2 thin spatulas, gently flip fillets flesh side down and cook until flesh is opaque and bottom begins to turn golden, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer cooked fillets to a large serving platter, flesh side up. Repeat cooking with 1 more tablespoon butter and remaining 2 trout fillets.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd remaining 6 tablespoons butter to the now-empty skillet. Cook, stirring frequently, until butter is light golden brown with a nutty, toasty aroma, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in almonds and cook, swirling and stirring often, until almonds are deep golden brown and milk solids in butter have turned a hazelnut color, about 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezImmediately remove skillet from heat and quickly but carefully swirl and stir in lemon zest, juice, parsley, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, scraping up any browned bits from bottom of pan. Pour sauce over trout fillets. Serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment12-inch nonstick skillet or cast iron skillet
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineI am a mayonnaise enthusiast. If something is made with the condiment—deviled eggs, macaroni salad, or tomato sandwiches—I know I will love it. That includes mayonnaise cake, a retro dessert with a moist, tender crumb and rich chocolate flavor. Made with flour, cocoa powder, sugar, and a few other pantry staples, this rich, fudgy cake is what I make when I find myself short on eggs or have a late-night chocolate craving.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineMayonnaise in a cake may sound odd, but the condiment—an emulsion of oil and water bound together by lecithin, a protein in egg yolks—is essentially made up of ingredients frequently used to prepare desserts. Cooks have been using mayonnaise to prepare chocolate cakes for nearly a century; mayonnaise cake was especially popular during World War Two, when ingredients like eggs, dairy, and sugar were rationed to support the war effort overseas, and more recently during the pandemic, when bakers once again found themselves facing bare supermarket shelves.
A Brief History of Chocolate Mayonnaise CakeMany blogs credit Hellmann’s with having created the mayonnaise cake in 1937, but one of the earliest recipes I found for the dessert was published 10 years earlier, in a March 1927 edition of the Oakland Tribune. The recipe didn’t call for store-bought mayonnaise, but it did instruct cooks to make their own mayonnaise by whipping one egg in half a cup of vegetable oil before adding it to their cake batter.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezGeneral Foods, the parent company of Hellmann’s and Best Foods, debuted its version in its 1937 dessert booklet Cakes and Cookies With Personality: Exciting New Recipes for Cakes, Cookies, and Frostings. The recipe came from Mrs. Paul Price, the wife of a General Foods sales executive. Though Hellmann’s wasn’t the first to make mayonnaise cake, they did popularize it. The company used the recipe in advertisements to promote their mayonnaise, touting the dessert as a "rich, moist cake” without the need for eggs or shortening. To this day, both Best Foods and Hellman’s share mayonnaise cake recipes on their websites.
Why Mayonnaise Cake Is the Secret Ingredient for Better Chocolate CakeIn my recipe below, full-fat mayonnaise adds moisture and richness. The acidity of natural cocoa powder and the vinegar in mayonnaise activate the baking soda, producing carbon dioxide that helps leaven the cake, while its salt enhances the other ingredients, adding complexity and depth of flavor. While the seasonings in a typical store-bought mayo (such as Hellmann's) will not affect the flavor of your cake, avoid using anything but plain mayonnaise, as using heavily seasoned mayonnaise can impact the flavor of your cake.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineMayonnaise's signature emulsion of oil and water produces an exceptionally fudgy cake with cling-to-your-fork levels of moisture: The lecithin helps the condiment stay emulsified, and that emulsification allows for a more even distribution of both fat and moisture within the cake batter. This helps the fat evenly coat the flour particles, limiting gluten development and producing a more tender cake. These features make it suitable for serving with nothing more than a dusting of powdered sugar, but it’s also a great canvas for frosting, ice cream, or hot fudge sauce.
Use Coffee Instead of Water for Bigger, Bolder Chocolate FlavorMany vintage mayonnaise cake recipes call for water to help moisten the batter, but in my recipe below, I’ve replaced water with strong black coffee, which complements and intensifies the cake’s chocolate flavor. Hot tip: Brew your coffee at double the strength you’d make for drinking. Don’t worry if you aren’t a coffee lover, though—even with double-strength coffee, this cake doesn’t taste like coffee, just rich dark chocolate. And isn’t that what we all want from a chocolate cake?
For the Cake: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Using nonstick spray, grease a 9- by 13-inch baking pan, then dust with all-purpose flour, shaking out excess.
Using a fine-mesh sieve, sift flour and cocoa powder into a large bowl. Add sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt and whisk to combine.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineIn another large mixing bowl, whisk coffee, mayonnaise, and vanilla extract until well combined and the mixture resembles foamy, milky coffee, about 20 seconds. Add dry ingredients and whisk until mixture just comes together and no visible dry spots remain, about 30 seconds. (Batter will be slightly lumpy; this is fine. Do not overmix.)
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineUsing a flexible rubber spatula, scrape batter into prepared pan. Bake until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean and cake pulls away slight from sides of pan, 35 to 38 minutes. Transfer pan to a wire rack and allow cake to cool completely, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineFor the Frosting: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or in a bowl using an electric hand mixer, beat butter on medium-high speed until creamy, about 30 seconds. Add confectioners' sugar and cocoa powder, followed by milk and vanilla extract. Mix on low speed until fully incorporated, then increase speed to medium-high and beat until smooth and fluffy, about 3 minutes more. Using a small offset spatula or flexible rubber spatula, spread frosting over cooled cake. Slice and serve.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineSpecial Equipment9- by 13-inch baking pan, whisk, flexible rubber spatula, stand mixer or hand mixer
NotesYou can substitute regular mayo for vegan mayonnaise, but vegan versions rises more, and have a lighter, more open crumb. If possible, avoid using reduced fat mayonnaise, which produces a denser, chewier, and less flavorful cake.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe frosted cake can be loosely wrapped in plastic and refrigerated for up to 3 days—allow it to come to room temperature before eating.
Whole or sliced unfrosted cake can also be wrapped in a layer of plastic wrap, followed by a layer of foil, and frozen for up to 3 months. Thaw at room temperature.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinWhile traveling through Japan, my husband and I stopped at a specialty coffee shop in Osaka. After sampling its coffee (one cup made in a French press and another with a pour-over) we bought some of the shop’s beans. The barista was pleased that we liked the coffee enough to purchase it and asked what sort of coffee makers we had at home. My husband and I looked at each other and laughed because our kitchen is overrun with brewers. We started listing our devices, and the barista nodded along wide-eyed.
At home, if one of us is making a single cup of coffee, we do a pour-over. However, if we’re both having coffee, entertaining friends, or just want a richer, full-bodied cup, we reach for a French press.
Though we already have seven French presses on our shelf (and a few more in storage), I was excited to try out the newer one from Yeti. After testing it, I’m happy to say it’s earned a permanent spot on our coffee shelf, next to the Fellow Clara and ESPRO P7.
The TestsI brewed a ton of coffee in the Yeti French Press to see if it was up to Serious Eats' standards.Serious Eats / Irvin Lin Heat Retention Test: I preheated the French press with boiling water and brewed a batch of coffee using 60 grams of medium-coarse grounds and 930 grams of water, a 1:15.5 ratio (the manufacturer’s recommendation). Using an instant-read thermometer, I noted the coffee’s temperature immediately after brewing, and after five and 20 minutes. Following each temperature check, I also poured and drank the coffee to evaluate its quality. I then timed how long it took for the coffee to drop down to 130°F, tasting it once again. * Taste Test 1: I brewed one batch of 1:16 ratio coffee (42.5 grams of coffee and 680 grams of water) using medium-coarse grounds. I stirred once at the one-minute mark and plunged after four minutes. * Taste Test 2: I brewed one batch of 1:16 ratio coffee (42.5 grams of coffee to 680 grams of grams water), using very coarse coffee grounds, per Nick Cho’s recipe. I stirred once at 45 seconds and plunged after eight minutes. * Usability and Cleaning Test:* While making and sampling each batch of coffee, I took note of how comfortable the Yeti’s handle was, how balanced the pot was, and if the lid dribbled. After finishing the coffee, I took apart the French press, cleaned it thoroughly, and reassembled it.
What I LearnedThe Extra Silicone Filter Cover Was ExcellentThe silicone cover helps prevent coffee grounds from getting into your final brew.Serious Eats / Irvin LinWhat makes the Yeti different from other French presses? The addition of a solid silicone flap that fits over the filter, which Yeti calls the “GroundsControl Filter.” It fits snuggly over the metal mesh and makes pushing the filter down slightly more difficult. However, the extra effort is worth it, as this flap serves two purposes. First, it prevents silt and sediment from winding up in the coffee. Second, this flap stops water from seeping back into the grounds, which can lead to over-extraction.
The Yeti produced a clean cup of coffee with minimal silt.Serious Eats / Irvin LinIn the final step of this French press recipe, Nick Cho suggests pouring the coffee into a separate vessel after plunging to prevent over-extraction. However, this method dirties two vessels, is overly fussy, and does away with any of the French press’s insulation that can keep coffee hot. The Yeti’s silicone flap does the job much more simply. After an hour, coffee from it was still hot without any signs of astringency, bitterness, or other evidence of over-extraction.
The Ceramic Interior Was Great for CleanupLike the Fellow Clara (one of Serious Eats’ favorite French presses), the Yeti’s interior has a ceramic lining. This is durable and stain-resistant, and the company has added it to a few of its other products, including its stackable espresso cups and mugs.
I haven’t had the Yeti French press long enough to properly test the stain-resistant part, but the ceramic lining absolutely made cleanup easier. Coffee grounds slid right out and hand-washing the smooth interior went fast, with no need to scrub off any coffee oil stains.
It Was Well Designed But Heavy The Yeti is sturdy and quite heavy.Serious Eats / Irvin LinYeti states that this French press is “over-engineered,” featuring 18/8 kitchen-grade stainless steel, a double-walled vacuum body, and a padded, non-slip bottom. All of these are great qualities, but they do add up to a heavy French press. The 34-ounce press weighs two pounds, 12 ounces, while the 64-ounce version is a pound heavier. In comparison, the Fellow Clara weighs just over two pounds.
Its Plastic Lid Was Its Weakest FeatureThe thick plastic lip of the Yeti made for messier pouring.Serious Eats / Irvin LinThe Yeti French press has a lid made from thick, durable plastic and twists to lock on. The lid has a hole on top, which is where the coffee is poured from. (It’s not dissimilar to the drinking piece on a travel mug.) This opening is about an inch from the edge.
This distance and the location of the opening means the coffee tends to dribble down the side of the French press after it’s poured. This aspect of the design baffled me, as Yeti thought through most of the other pain points of French presses like sediment and cleanup but didn’t take pouring coffee into consideration as much.
The VerdictSerious Eats / Irvin LinThe durable Yeti French Press has a few flaws but makes great coffee. It’s ideal for folks who love the full body of French press but hate the sediment in the last cup. It’s easy to clean, well-designed, and backed by a five-year warranty, though the plastic lid does dribble a bit when pouring coffee.
The ProsThis French press makes a great cup of coffee with minimal silt. It’s easy to clean due to its ceramic lining and is also dishwasher safe. The vacuum-sealed body keeps coffee hot for at least three hours—plenty of time to finish the pot. The French press itself is super durable and sturdy, with a non-slip base.
The ConsThe Yeti is heavier than other French presses, so folks with wrist or mobility issues might have some difficulties using it. The lid’s opening dribbles, so be aware of that when pouring. Finally, the 34-ounce Yeti costs $110. This is $11 more than the Fellow Clara French press and $70 costlier than the ESPRO P3, both of which have similar capacities and are Serious Eats winners.
Key Specs Capacity: 34 or 64 ounces * Dimensions: 8.25 x 6.125 x 4.25 inches (34-ounce); 10.25 x 7 x 5 inches (64-ounce) * Materials: 18/8 stainless steel with ceramic lining, silicone parts, and plastic lid * Insulation: Yes, double-walled * Filter type: Single screen with silicone “GroundsControl” filter over it * Dishwasher-safe:* Yes
FAQsHow do you use the Yeti French press? The Yeti is similar to most French press coffee makers. Assemble the French press by attaching the solid silicone filter to the mesh filter and screwing it to the metal rod. Boil water and let it stand for 30 seconds to cool slightly. Then add medium-coarse grounds to the pot and the appropriate ratio of water.
Typical ratios are 1:14 to 1:16, meaning one part coffee grounds to 14 to 16 parts water. For two to three servings of coffee, this might mean 42.5 grams of coffee to 680 grams of water for a 1:16 ratio. Once the water is added, let it sit for one minute, stir a few times, and then let steep for an additional three minutes. Press the plunger down slowly and steadily, then pour.
How long does the Yeti French press keep coffee hot for?During testing, I found coffee only dropped to 130°F after three hours. (That’s still hot!) Coffee at this point showed no signs of over-extraction.
Why We’re the Experts Irvin Lin is a former barista and coffee-obsessed drinker who owns over 25 brewers. * He wrote the cookbook Marbled, Swirled, and Layered, which was picked by the New York Times* as one of the best baking cookbooks of 2016. * He runs a blog called Eat the Love, where he’s developed, photographed, and written recipes since 2010. Eat the Love was nominated twice for best food blog by the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) in 2016 and 2022. * He’s tested and reviewed hundreds of kitchen items, including stand mixers and saucepans.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOne of the few meals I could stomach during my first trimester of pregnancy was a baked potato topped with nothing more than a pat of butter and some salt and pepper. As the nausea receded in the following months, I began garnishing my potatoes with more and more toppings. I loaded up my spuds with sour cream, chives, bacon bits, cheddar, and, if I was feeling extra fancy, bolognese sauce. Baked potatoes are still a staple in my home today, but with sweater weather upon us, and just feeling the desire to switch things up, I decided to create my own soup-ified version that tastes just like the humble baked potato.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMost loaded potato soup recipes are pretty similar: They have you brown the bacon, drain some of the fat off, then cook the aromatics in the remaining fat before adding the milk and potatoes. The potatoes simmer in the milk until tender, you blend the soup until it’s smooth, then you garnish it with crispy potato skins and an assortment of toppings. I’ve used some of those techniques (like using the bacon fat to cook the aromatics) in my recipe, but I’ve also incorporated some other tricks for a silky-smooth soup that is loaded with baked potato flavor.
How to Make a Better Loaded Potato SoupSkip Blending, If PossibleWhile puréeing the soup in a powerful blender is certainly a quick and easy option—and one I’ve provided instructions for in the notes below in case you're in a rush—it often results in a soup with a gluey texture. That’s because puréeing potatoes causes their starch granules to burst, turning the spuds into a sticky mess.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo avoid that pasty texture, I took a technique from Kenji’s leek and potato soup recipe, in which he simmers potatoes with stock and aromatics until they’re tender, then passes them through a ricer for a velvety soup.
Like Kenji, I chose to use a ricer—but I streamline the process slightly. Instead of fishing out the cooked potatoes from a pot of simmering milk and onions, I decided to microwave the potatoes—which happens while you get a head start on crisping up the bacon and sautéeing the onions—until they’re soft enough to rice. Ultimately, texture is a personal preference, and you can skip the ricing and just purée the whole soup—it will still be slightly gluier, but still delicious.
Load Up on the Sour Cream and ToppingsThis soup is not for the faint of heart or lactose intolerant. For an ultra-creamy soup, I whisk in an entire cup of sour cream. This gives the soup pleasant tanginess and, along with chopped chives, shredded extra-sharp cheddar, and crispy bacon bits, recreates the flavors of a classic loaded baked potato topped with sour cream.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor Extra Crunch, Garnish With Potato ChipsI also decided to skip the hassle of crisping up a potato-skin garnish in the oven and opted to garnish the soup with store-bought potato chips instead, a decision inspired by contributor Pat Tanumihardja, who tops her Indonesian chicken noodle soup with lightly salted potato chips. I recommend using salt and vinegar potato chips, as they provide a nice burst of acidity to cut through the heaviness of the soup, but feel free to use plain salted, cheddar, or sour cream and onion potato chips, too.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing a fork or paring knife, prick skin of potatoes all over. Working in batches if needed, place potatoes on microwave-safe plate and microwave on high power, flipping halfway through, until potatoes can be easily pierced with a paring knife, 12 to 14 minutes. (If they aren't ready, continue to microwave in 30-second increments until soft.) Let potatoes sit until cool enough to handle. Peel the potatoes and pass through a ricer into a medium bowl; set aside. (See notes if you’d prefer to use a blender instead.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile potatoes cook: In a 6-quart pot, cook bacon over medium heat, stirring constantly, until bacon is crisp and fat is rendered, about 12 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to a paper-towel lined plate to drain. Pour off all but 3 tablespoons bacon fat from pot.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd onion and garlic to remaining bacon fat in pot and sauté over medium heat until very soft but not browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Add milk, season with salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to a gentle simmer and cook until flavors meld, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing an immersion blender, purée onion, garlic, and milk until smooth. Add riced potatoes and sour cream, stirring to combine, until soup is warmed through. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve. Garnish with sour cream, chives, cheddar, and potato chips, if desired.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentMicrowave, ricer, 6-quart pot, immersion blender
NotesAlternatively, you can use a blender instead of a ricer. Peel cooked potatoes and cut into 1-inch cubes, then proceed with step 2 of recipe. In step 4, add potatoes and sour cream to onion, garlic, and milk mixture. Purée using an immersion blender or transfer soup to a blender and begin blending on low (make sure to remove lid vent and cover with a clean kitchen towel before turning on blender to prevent a build-up of pressurized steam). Slowly increase speed to high and blend until completely smooth, about 2 minutes. Return soup to pot, straining through a fine-mesh strainer if desired, and bring soup to a simmer over medium heat. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve. Garnish with sour cream, chives, cheddar, and potato chips, if desired.
Make-Ahead and StorageSoup can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Once cooled, soup can be frozen for up to 1 month in an airtight container. To thaw, place in refrigerator overnight.
Serious Eats / Qi AiWhen people think about making fresh pasta at home, they often think about flour flying around the kitchen, sticky globs of egg dough pasted onto countertops and glued onto fingers, and hours of cranking a pasta machine, slowly wrestling dough into paper-thin submission. But there’s a whole other kind of pasta-making that doesn’t involve any rolling or even any eggs. Welcome to the world of Southern Italian pasta, and one of my personal favorites: cavatelli.
Serious Eats / Qi AiUnlike egg pasta, which is often delicate and satiny, cavatelli—which translates to “little hollows”—are rustic, chewy, and ridiculously satisfying. Making the hollow nugget-like noodles is remarkably enjoyable. You need little more than your own two hands. Unlike shapes like fettuccine, pappardelle, and farfalle, which are made by rolling dough into thin sheets and cutting out shapes, cavatelli are formed by hand from small chunks of a pliable water-based dough. Once the dough is mixed and kneaded, it’s rolled into ropes by hand, cut into small segments, and finally pressed and rolled across the counter or a grooved hand-held pasta board to make short, thick, chewy noodles.
Serious Eats / Qi AiI learned to make fresh cavatelli, and all types of southern Italian pasta, when I lived in the tiny town of Conversano in Puglia. There I worked full-time in a Michelin-starred restaurant, learning and perfecting the craft of making fresh pasta from my coworkers and fellow chefs. Since my time as a culinary student and cook in Italy, my love for fresh pasta has only grown, and I now have my own pasta business, selling packaged portions of many varieties of fresh noodles at farmers markets in Martha’s Vineyard, where I live. As a pasta lover who lives and breathes it, I’ve learned a lot about making homemade cavatelli. Here’s some insight into making impressive fresh cavatelli at home.
The Right Flour for CavatelliAs with the majority of southern Italian pastas, cavatelli dough is made from semolina flour and water, sometimes with a very small addition of olive oil. With so few ingredients, the quality and type of flour you use is vital in guaranteeing flavorful pasta. You want to look for double-milled (also called “rimacinata”) semolina flour. Semolina rimacinata is finely-ground hard durum wheat that has a high protein content, light yellow color, and a soft texture that easily absorbs water. It is ideal for kneading into pasta dough and creating supple, structured noodles.
Serious Eats / Qi AiThe double-milled flour is key because you want the grain very finely ground to ensure dough that's silky, not grainy. You can purchase semolina rimacinata such as the Caputo brand at specialty markets and online. I always look for semolina from Puglia, but that's a personal preference. Don’t attempt to substitute all-purpose flour for the double-milled semolina flour in the recipe. The resulting dough will be tough with a pasty, glue-like texture.
The Different Styles of CavatelliCavatelli originate from the Molise and Puglia regions of Italy, but the type of pasta has deep roots throughout Southern Italy, with regional nuances. The women I learned from in Puglia showed me how to shape smooth—"lisci"—cavatelli. Each nugget of dough was formed on their wooden counters with just their thumbs, pressing and dragging the dough until it curled over itself, forming the shell-like “little hollows.” The other style of cavatelli are ridged, or “rigati,” and are shaped using specialty pasta boards or hand-cranked pasta makers.
Serious Eats / Qi AiThe Tools You’ll Need for Shaping CavatelliSmooth cavatelli are the easiest to shape and require no specialty equipment. You can simply use a butter knife or even just your thumb to scrape the dough across a flat surface to give it its hollow curled shape, and I’ve included those directions in my recipe below.
However, I prefer to make my cavatelli with ridges because I love how pasta sauce clings to the nooks. There are many different pasta tools that can be used for shaping cavatelli with ridges, but I’ve found a simple gnocchi board works the best. Hand-held gnocchi boards are fairly affordable and are available at many Italian grocers or online. Other specialty pasta boards, such as a garganelli or malloreddus board, will also work. Or, if you’re interested in artistic experimentation, look for artisanal cavarolo boards made from different types of wood with many different etched designs. As you press and roll the dough against the board, the design will imprint the pasta.
Serious Eats / Qi AiAnother option for shaping cavatelli is a crank-operated cavatelli machine. With this small pasta maker you place a hand-rolled rope of dough between the two rollers and crank the handle while the machine cuts and shapes the noodles. It’s a very fun tool to use, and if you foresee making cavatelli on a frequent basis at home, I encourage you to consider buying one.
What Sauce Should You Serve With Cavatelli?Now let’s talk about what kind of sauce goes with your hand-formed cavatelli that you so lovingly took the time to make. Whether ridged or smooth, cavatelli are fantastic sauce-holders. The indent in the inner cavity, whether shaped by your thumb or rolled into tight overlapping folds, catches and stores sauce very well. If you shape them “rigati” style by rolling the dough on a textured board, you'll get even more sauce in each bite because it will cling inside the ridges.
Serious Eats / Qi AiA general rule when pairing pasta with sauce is that you have to pay attention to how the melange will travel from bowl to mouth. For instance, long noodles like pappardelle twirl up on your fork, traveling as a little nest. For that, you’d want a thick sauce that clings well and has components (think a slow-cooked ragu with shredded meat) that get caught up in the twirl and make it to your mouth alongside the pasta. But for short, rustic, dumpling-like pasta shapes like cavatelli, we might reach for a spoon instead of a fork. We want a looser sauce that can pool in the spoon and tuck into the little hollows of each noodle.
A fresh tomato or slow-cooked tomato sauce or even a ragu are great options, and I’ve included them below. You could also fold tender bites of cooked seasonal vegetables, such as green beans, or shavings of salty cheese like ricotta salata into the final dish. Ultimately, you want a sauce that mirrors the pure simplicity of the handmade cavatelli. Use good ingredients and it's hard to go wrong.
For the cavatelli: In a large bowl, mix semolina, 150g (2/3 cup) water, and oil together until a clumpy dough forms and there is very little dry semolina remaining at the bottom of the bowl. Use your hands to press and knead the dough together in the bowl until it forms a rough ball. If the dough seems too dry, like there’s no way to get it to come together, knead in 1 to 2 more tablespoons (15 to 30ml) of water.
Serious Eats / Qi AiTransfer dough to a clean counter and knead until smooth, about 4 to 6 minutes. Cover dough with a clean dishcloth (or with the now-empty overturned mixing bowl from step 1). Let dough rest for about 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Qi AiUse a bench scraper or knife to cut the dough into 6 equal pieces. Keep all but one piece of dough covered. Working with one piece of dough at a time, use the palms of both hands to press down moderately on the dough and roll until the dough forms an even rope that’s roughly 1/2-inch diameter and 12 to 15 inches long. Make sure the counter beneath the dough is clean (no dusting of flour) so the rope can grip the surface and lengthen as it rolls.
Serious Eats / Qi AiCut the rope into 1/2 inch long segments. If making ridges, hold a gnocchi board with your non-dominant hand. Place a segment of dough, cut-side-down, on the top-side of the board (the side closest to the handle) or the back side of a fork. Press the thumb of your dominant hand into the dough and forcefully roll it down the board or length of the back of the fork toward the counter. This will create one large indent on one side of the dough and a grooved pattern on the rolled exterior of the noodle. Repeat with remaining segments of dough. Alternatively, use a crank-operated cavatelli maker for shaping, or use a butter knife and, working with one 1/2 dough segment at a time, drag the butter knife across each piece of dough along the counter until it curls over itself. This will create cavatelli with a smooth exterior.
Serious Eats / Qi AiUse a bench scraper to scoop up cavatelli and transfer noodles to a rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle semolina over cavatelli and gently toss until coated. Shake baking sheet so cavatelli arrange themselves in a single layer.
Serious Eats / Qi AiRepeat rolling out ropes, cutting segments, and forming cavatelli with the remaining covered dough. Once all noodles are coated in semolina and arranged in a single layer on a baking sheet, let them partially dry (or “cure”) at room temperature until they have a very light skin, 30 minutes to 1 hour (depending on humidity in the air). After the noodles have cured, you can cook them immediately or freeze in a single layer until they harden, about 15 minutes, and then transfer them to a zipperlock bag or airtight plastic container to store in the freezer for up to 3 months.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor Cooking and Serving: In a large sauté pan or skillet, heat sauce until warmed through and hold warm over low heat. In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon salt, return to a boil, then add cavatelli and cook, stir gently with a wooden spoon, chopsticks, or a cooking fork, tasting occasionally until cavatelli are just set with a definite bite, 3 to 6 minutes.
Serious Eats / Qi AiUsing a large spider skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer pasta to the sauce along with 1/4 cup pasta cooking water. Cook over high heat, stirring and tossing rapidly, until pasta is al dente and sauce has thickened and begins to coat noodles. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with your preferred grated cheese, if desired.
Serious Eats / Qi AiSpecial EquipmentBench scraper, hand-held gnocchi board, fork, butter knife, orcrank-operated cavatelli maker for shaping the pasta, large sauté pan or skillet, large pot, large spider skimmer or slotted spoon
NotesDouble-milled semolina flour, also known as Semolina rimacinata is finely-ground hard durum wheat that has a high protein content, light yellow color, and a soft texture. You can purchase semolina rimacinata such as the Caputo brand at specialty markets and online.
Make-Ahead and StorageYou can freeze the cavatelli in a single layer until they harden, about 15 minutes, then transfer them to a zipperlock bag or airtight container to store in the freezer for up to 3 months. Boil from frozen, adding 1 to 2 additional minutes to the cooking time.
Getty Images / AlasdairJamesBasmati rice—often called the "queen of rice" in India and Pakistan—is cherished in kitchens worldwide, particularly in South Asian cuisines. When translated directly from Hindi, basmati means “queen of fragrance.” Its delicate aroma, long slender grains, and fluffy texture make it a favorite in various dishes. “Growing up as a first-generation Indian, we never ate a meal without rice,” says Priyanka Naik, a chef, TV host, columnist, and author of The Modern Tiffin. “Whether it’s just plain rice or made into a pulao, basmati is a huge part of our diet, and we're very particular about how it's cooked.”
Whether you're preparing a traditional biryani or a simple side of steamed rice for curry or dal, understanding how basmati rice is cultivated, selected, and cooked can elevate your culinary game. We spoke with Naik, as well as Brita Lundberg, a fourth-generation farmer at the California-based rice farm Lundberg Family Farms to learn more.
How Basmati Rice Is CultivatedBasmati is a long-grain rice variety developed at least 250 years ago by the farmers of India and Pakistan and grown along the Himalayan foothills in these two countries ever since. The unique environment of the area, with its cool climate and nutrient-rich soil, plays a significant role in developing basmati’s subtly nutty flavor and aroma that’s reminiscent of pandan and popcorn. Growing basmati rice is truly an art form. Farmers in India and Pakistan grow seedlings in a nursery and then transplant them by hand. The process requires careful attention to detail to ensure the grains develop their characteristic length, aroma, and texture. After harvesting, Indian and Pakistani basmati undergoes a period of aging through long storage, typically for six months to a year, which intensifies the flavor and allows the grains to elongate further when cooked.
What About American-Grown Basmati?Because of the unique environment in India, Pakistan, and other parts of the Indian subcontinent, which contributes to basmati’s unique flavor and aroma, true basmati can’t be grown in the US—but since there are currently no patents or official DOP- or DOC-style rules (designation of origin) rules governing basmati there have been cases in the States of companies creating basmati hybrids without acknowledging the rice’s South Asian history. Most notably, in 1984, Robin Andrews, former chief executive of the rice company RiceTec, created a hybrid between basmati and American long-grain rice and marketed it as Texmati. It’s still sold today, along with other American hybrids, and has been the topic of much discussion surrounding colonialism and imperialism. These hybrids are grown by planting seeds directly into production fields, instead of in a nursery. Similarly, Lundberg Family Farms grows a version of basmati in California and calls it "California basmati" to distinguish it from basmatis grown in the Indian subcontinent. Unlike Indian basmati, the grains of American basmatis usually don’t elongate during the cooking process and they tend to have a less pronounced aroma.
How to Shop for Basmati RiceGetty Images / igorissWhen shopping for basmati rice, the packaging and the grain itself can tell you a lot about its quality. Here’s what to look out for:
Grades and TerminologyThere are a few terms and grades you will encounter when shopping for basmati rice.
- Super basmati is the top grade, featuring extra-long, slender grains. It's ideal for special dishes like biryani or pilaf.
- Pusa basmati is a hybrid version of basmati rice that also has long grains but is typically less expensive than super basmati.
- Brown basmati retains the bran layer, offering more fiber and nutrients than white basmati, but with a nuttier flavor and chewier texture.
- Aged basmati is rice that’s undergone the aging process, which gives it a stronger flavor and fluffier texture.
Grain AppearanceA good basmati rice grain should range from long (6.6 to 7.5 mm) to very long (more than 7.5 mm) and be slender (2 mm wide). Broken or short grains indicate lower quality. “Look for translucent—not chalky—grains of uniform shape and size to ensure a consistent cook and ideal texture,” says Lundberg. The color should be slightly off-white or light golden due to the aging process. If the rice looks too white, it might have been over-processed or over-polished.
StorageKeep dry basmati rice in an airtight container in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, along with the moisture-absorbing packet that typically comes with the rice to help keep it fresh. If it's especially humid where you live, or you're concerned about pests, keep your rice in the freezer, which shouldn’t affect its quality.
Signs of Well-Cooked Basmati RiceIndian and Pakistani basmati grains should lengthen significantly when cooked—almost double their original length. “There's no right or wrong way to cook it,” says Naik. “It depends on your personal preferences and what dish you're eating it with.” You can cook the rice on the stovetop or in a rice cooker, but note that the grains may not be as fluffy when made in a rice cooker.
If you're eating rice with something soupy like dal (stewed lentils), Naik says the rice should be cooked with slightly more water than the typical 1:1 ratio she recommends so it comes out a bit mushy, because once you pour the dal over the rice, the rice needs to absorb it. If the rice grains are too loose, the rice won’t absorb the dal and instead will just spread out on your plate.
For specialty rice dishes, like pulao, each grain should remain distinct, not sticky or mushy. Sauté the washed grains first with nuts like pistachios, almonds, or cashews, and spices like peppercorns, a cinnamon stick, and turmeric. “This type of rice must be made in a wide pan, not in a pot, because you want all the rice grains to hit the heat and mix with the spices,” says Naik. Once the mixture is aromatic, add water (1:1.5 or 1:2 rice to water ratio) and bring it to a simmer. Cover and cook until it’s a loose and fluffy consistency with a slightly al dente bite, about 15 minutes.
Common Uses for Basmati RiceSerious Eats / Nader MehravariBasmati rice is incredibly versatile. Its light, fluffy texture pairs beautifully with everything from rich spiced meats to delicate vegetable stews. Aside from South Asian dishes, it also is just as prized in Middle Eastern cuisines. Here are some of the most popular uses:
Steamed: A simple side of steamed basmati rice is often served with curries, kebabs, and grilled vegetables across many cuisines. Its light and fluffy texture balances out the richness of many accompanying dishes. For a variation on plain steamed rice, try Persian-style chelow.
Biryani: Perhaps one of the most famous dishes using basmati rice, biryani is a rich layered rice dish cooked with spices, vegetables, and meats like chicken or lamb. The long grains of basmati are perfect for absorbing the complex flavors of this dish.
Pilaf: Basmati rice is often used in pilafs, where it’s cooked with fragrant spices, broth, and sometimes dried fruits or nuts. The rice's fluffy texture and the grains’ ability to stay separate make it ideal for this type of dish. Take your pick from Greek, Armenian, and Indian styles, among others.
Desserts: In Indian and Pakistani cuisine, basmati is sometimes used in sweet applications like phirni, a creamy dessert commonly served during Muslim festivals in India. Dry fruits add texture to the base and you can add your favorite fruit pulp for extra flavor. Kheer—a silky rice pudding flavored with cardamom, saffron, and nuts—is also a popular South Asian dessert.
Dosa: These giant, crispy South Asian crepes are made from fermented basmati rice and lentils and usually served with chutney and sambar, or rolled like a wrap.
Tahdig: To make Persian tahdig, basmati is infused with saffron, cooked until crunchy, and bejeweled with pomegranate seeds. It’s often a centerpiece dish served with all kinds of entrées like stews, grilled or roasted meats, fish, vegetables, and herb platters.
The TakeawayAs you can see, basmati rice is more than just a side dish; it’s a staple ingredient that brings elegance and flavor to any meal. Understanding basmati rice is about appreciating the artistry behind it—from the field to the kitchen. When you select a good quality rice and cook it properly, the results are nothing short of extraordinary.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPreparing a sauce to accompany a seared piece of meat may seem overly fussy to most home cooks, but some pan sauces are not only easy, but also able to transform a simple meal into a restaurant-worthy experience. Green peppercorn sauce is one of those sauces. It's hard to mess up, and delivers a peppery bite, intensely meaty aroma, and perfect food-coating creaminess that will have you dipping everything in it—from your slices of steak to your fries to, eventually, your fingers—until not a drop is left.
The beauty of a sauce like green peppercorn sauce is that it comes together in just one pan (the same one you use to cook your protein) with only a handful of ingredients, including shallots, green peppercorns, stock, brandy, and cream. The most annoying of those are the green peppercorns themselves, but they come in a can, which means you can buy a few cans at once, keep them in your pantry for months on end, and then be able to use them with very little effort or planning.
While it's often served with steak, it's worth knowing that green peppercorn sauce also pairs well with many other proteins, from pork to chicken and even fish. If it can be seared in a skillet, there’s a good chance green peppercorn sauce will taste great with it.
Here are the most important things to know about making this sauce successfully at home.
What Is Green Peppercorn Sauce?Green peppercorn sauce is simply a variant of sauce au poivre, just made with green peppercorns instead of black peppercorns. Pan peppercorn sauces have been a bistro and brasserie staple since the late nineteenth century. The black peppercorn version is perhaps most famous as the sauce that accompanies steak au poivre, while green peppercorn sauce often pops up as one of several popular options for steak frites. While sauce au poivre made with black peppercorns packs a punchy kick, green peppercorn sauce has a slightly fruity, less assertive flavor due to the difference in the peppercorns themselves.
Green and black peppercorns are the very same fruit of the Piper nigrum plant, just in different stages of ripeness and processed differently. Green peppercorns are younger than the fully mature black peppercorns, with a softer, fleshier texture and milder flavor that has notes of juniper and pine. They’re also less fiery than black peppercorns, though they do still pack some heat.
To preserve their fresh color, texture, and fruity flavor once picked, green peppercorns are preserved in a solution of water, salt, and sometimes citric acid. They’re often brined in two styles: Thai and European. Thai-style green peppercorns are packed in a lightly salted solution, while European-style green peppercorns are processed in a concentrated brine that gives them a saltier, caper-like quality. The difference in flavor between the two styles is noticeable, and you’ll want to use European-style brined green peppercorns for this recipe, as their more assertive flavor pairs well with the heavy cream.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBuilding a Great Green Peppercorn SauceBuilding this assertive, rich pan sauce is not hard, but there are a few key steps to ensure you end up with a balanced and creamy sauce every time you make it. It's worth noting that when made in a restaurant, green peppercorn sauce will typically not be cooked like a pan sauce, but will instead be prepared in larger batches built on a well-made stock (usually beef). At home, though, it makes more sense to prepare it as a pan sauce, which produces the perfect amount for a single meal and takes advantage of a key byproduct of pan-roasted meats: the flavorful fond sticking to the bottom of the pan after searing.
The first step, then, isn't really part of this sauce recipe, since the specifics will vary with the protein, but the sauce requires it: searing your meat. I have written the searing into the first step of the recipe below in vague terms, just to make clear that it is a required precursor to making the sauce, but you'll need to figure out the timing and doneness depending on what you're cooking and your personal preferences (or, you know, consult the many recipes and guides we have to searing meat here on Serious Eats).
1. Build a Good Fond: As mentioned above, green peppercorn sauce doesn’t start with the sauce, but with the fond in the pan—those tasty browned bits left behind after searing meat. The key here, then, is developing a good fond in your pan so that it can enhance the roasty, meaty flavor in the sauce.
The single most important thing to guarantee a good fond? Choosing the right pan. Cast iron, carbon steel (my favorite pan in my kitchen), and stainless-steel skillets are all ideal for searing. What you absolutely don't want here is a nonstick skillet, because fond is created through a desirable amount of sticking, which nonstick pans are designed to not do.
It's also important to crank your heat up to high when searing for maximum browning. Turn on your fans and filters, open the windows, or do whatever else is necessary to manage the inevitable smoke.
After the meat has cooked, set it aside to rest. Now you can direct your attention to the sauce. If there is any excess fat (more than 1 tablespoon), pour it off. But do not wipe the skillet out; you just worked really hard to create that flavorful layer of fond, and you're gonna need it.
2. Layer the Flavor: Once your pan is filled with a glossy mahogany fond, it's time to build even more flavor. I start by gently sweating the green peppercorns with minced shallots until softened and the shallots are translucent, but not browned. Shallots have a subtle, concentrated flavor that complements other ingredients without overpowering them, which is exactly what we want in this sauce—assertive, but balanced flavors. Plus when minced, the shallot’s texture enhances the sauce rather than getting in the way.
Along with the shallots, I also throw a sprig of fresh thyme into the sauce. To me, thyme evokes French flavor more than other woodsy herbs, adding a deep herbal earthiness that pairs well with meat while still being delicate enough to not overpower other flavors.
After the aromatics, I deglaze with brandy, adding that wood-aged complexity of the alcohol, and follow it with stock. This is a good time to pull out your freezer stash of homemade beef or chicken stock. The foundation to any great French sauce is a well-made stock, and it plays true here, adding meaty depth and viscosity via its natural gelatin content that most store-bought broth lacks. If homemade isn’t an option, the next best option is a quality stock from a local butcher or gourmet food shop, or store-bought low-sodium chicken broth. Do not—I repeat do not—use mass-market beef stock or broth. In my experience, they don’t taste beefy at all, just salty, and will taste even worse when reduced down in a sauce.
3. Concentrate the Flavor: At this stage, be patient and let the stock reduce by about half. You can confirm this by pouring it into a measuring cup, or if you're confident in your ability to estimate volumes, just tilt the skillet to eyeball how much is there. Proper reduction concentrates the sauce’s flavor and enhances its body (assuming you started with a good quality stock with some natural gelatin in it).
- Emulsify With Cream: Just as important as building the sauce’s flavor is the need to create a velvety emulsion. A properly emulsified sauce will look creamy, thick, and opaque. As Kenji points out in his chicken with white wine pan sauce, a pan sauce is essentially a fat and water emulsion. This sauce, and many like it, is a failure if broken—the texture suffers, the flavors suffer. While forming a butterfat-in-water emulsion is not as easy as just melting butter and water together, it’s also not that challenging to achieve, and the emulsion in this sauce is harder to break than most, another reason any one with any skill level can make it.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe strength of this sauce's emulsion can be attributed to two factors. First, a small amount of all-purpose flour is whisked in with the sautéed shallots right before the liquids are added. The added starch thickens the sauce and, on a microscopic level, physically impedes fat molecules from coalescing, giving the sauce longer-lasting stability.
The second, and primary, way that this sauce is thickened and emulsified is with heavy cream, and it's one of the reasons cream sauces are so easy even for novice cooks. The cream not only supplies fat, richness, and flavor, but it’s also an emulsion in itself—a homogenous mixture of proteins, fats, and water. Building a sauce with an ingredient that's already in an emulsified state can help with your own sauce emulsion.
Cream is a relatively stable emulsion, meaning it can withstand a fair amount of heat and agitation without breaking (just think of how much you have to churn cream before butter forms), but cream can still break if pushed to its limits, so just take care not to let it boil down to the point of breaking, and you should be fine. Occasionally swirling the skillet as it simmers not only makes you feel like a saucier in a fancy French restaurant, but it also agitates the mixture, ensuring the fat is evenly dispersed throughout.
If you find the sauce does start to look greasy, that means it's broken, likely by having reduced too much. First, congratulations, because wow that must have taken a lot of effort (read: neglect), but you can likely still bring it back together. Gently swirling a few tablespoons of water back into the sauce will usually bring it back together.
The emulsified, finished sauce is now ready to be spooned over your seared meat. I recommend doing this tableside to impress your family or friends—they don’t need to know how easy it really was to perfect this restaurant staple.
- Before making the sauce, sear your protein (steak, chicken, or pork) in a 12-inch skillet until well browned and desired internal doneness has been reached; transfer to a warm place to rest. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon remaining fat from the skillet.
Add butter and melt over medium-low heat. Add peppercorns and shallot and cook, stirring frequently, until shallot is softened, 3 to 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd flour and cook, stirring constantly, until well combined, 2 minutes. Increase heat to medium and whisk in brandy, scraping the bottom of the pan to loosen the fond and cook for 1 minute, then pour in stock and whisk to combine. Add a sprig of thyme and bring to boil, then cook, whisking occasionally, until mixture reduces to 11/2 cups, 12 to 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhisk in cream and cook, whisking occasionally, until reduced to 2 cups, about 10 minutes. Discard thyme sprig, then season sauce with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with the reserved meat (if needed, you can quickly put the meat under a broiler or in a very hot oven just to warm it back up).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment12-inch stainless-steel, carbon steel, or cast iron skillet
Make-Ahead and StorageThis sauce is best enjoyed right away, but it can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days. Gently reheat in a saucepan over low heat on the stove top, whisking constantly before serving.
Serious Eats / Julia EstradaWe don't often look to the spice rack to inspire a recipe roundup, but cinnamon deserves a deep dive, given its ubiquity in fall and winter baking. Also known as cassia, the cinnamon you're most likely to find in the US is bold and spicy-sweet (in contrast with milder Ceylon cinnamon). Its signature aroma and flavor is one of the culinary hallmarks of fall.
Unfortunately, cinnamon has been in the news for something other than its role in autumn pies and pastries lately: Within the last year, the Food and Drug Administration released a list of 17 brands of cinnamon that contain high amounts of lead. "The FDA has called on distributors to voluntarily recall the products, but until that happens, these brands might still be available on store shelves," according to a Consumer Reports article. "In addition to not buying these brands, consumers should check their spice racks for them and throw them away." But that doesn’t mean you need to cut cinnamon out of your cooking completely—Consumer Reports' food safety scientists tested 36 common cinnamon products and reported on which ones were safe for consumption, whether in small or big doses—at the top of their "Best to Use" list is a brand that they deem safe to use up to 16 teaspoons (more than five tablespoons) of a day, which is more than you're likely to find in any common baked good, including the recipes we're featuring here.
We love cinnamon in a warm, gooey cinnamon roll fresh from the oven, but there are many more ways to take advantage of the spice, including plenty of everyday uses that don't require making and proofing a yeasted dough. Baked oatmeal with cinnamon and apples, cream cheese–stuffed wontons tossed with cinnamon sugar, horchata steeped with coffee and cinnamon sticks—keep reading for these recipes and more of our favorite treats starring this warm fall spice.
Pumpkin Spice Latte (With Real Squash)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIt's not that we're against a PSL (pumpkin spice latte, for the uninitiated), but we just expect it to....actually have pumpkin in it. So we took to making the classic at home for the best flavor. In addition to using actual squash, we lean on warm spices like star anise, ground ginger, cloves, coriander, nutmeg, and—of course—cinnamon for the perfect taste of fall in a mug.
Crispy Cinnamon Sugar-Coated Cream Cheese WontonsMorgan EisenbergThis recipe is proof that wonton wrappers can and should be put to use beyond the savory realm. To make these sweet and simple dumplings, just stuff the wrappers with a blend of cream cheese, sugar, and vanilla; fry them until they're crispy and golden, but still a little chewy; and toss them with cinnamon sugar. A Nutella- and dulce de leche–infused dipping sauce on the side makes them even richer.
One-Bowl, Overnight Cinnamon RollsSerious Eats / Julia EstradaMaybe there are a few lonely souls out there who don't like sweet, fluffy cinnamon rolls, but none of us have met them yet. This recipe is perfect for a lazy morning, since all the prep work is done the night before and only requires one bowl. The dough incorporates Greek yogurt to keep things light, while the filling is a sweet mixture of butter, brown sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Let the prepared rolls refrigerate overnight, then come morning, just bake and finish them off with some homemade cream cheese frosting.
The Best Apple Cider DoughnutsSarah Jane WebbUnlike the cake-like batter of most apple cider doughnuts, our version uses a yeast-raised dough to create a lighter crumb. To ensure a bright apple flavor, we reach for fresh apple cider, adding rose water and almond extract to enhance its aroma. The finishing touch? A generous coating of apple cinnamon sugar for the ultimate sweet-tart flavor.
Easy One-Bowl Coffee CakeVicky WasikYou can always count on coffee cake to bring on the cinnamon with its crumbly streusel topping. In this recipe we use tangy Greek yogurt instead of sour cream, which makes a light and tender cake. Meanwhile, the streusel uses whole wheat flour for a subtle graham cracker–like vibe. Not only is this an improved version of classic coffee cake, but it's also an easy one—if you make the crumb topping and then the batter, you only have to use one bowl.
Coffee-Cinnamon HorchataLauren RothmanHorchata, the nut- and rice-based Mexican beverage, has a creamy consistency (despite containing no dairy) and a mild flavor that plays nicely with all sorts of other ingredients. Infused with dark-roast coffee beans and cinnamon sticks, this refreshing caffeinated version will perk you right up.
New-Fashioned SnickerdoodlesVicky WasikThese are snickerdoodles as they're meant to be—crispy on the outside, chewy and tender in the middle. To achieve this consistency, we substitute the hydrogenated shortening used in most recipes for virgin coconut oil, which makes a richer cookie. Baking the cookies under high heat for a short amount of time helps them crisp on the edges without drying out the middle. For a brighter, fresher cinnamon flavor, we like to use freshly grated cinnamon in addition to the commercially ground option.
Waffle Iron ChurrosDaniel ShumskiFor easier churros at home, we turn to the waffle iron instead of a pot of hot oil. The batter consists of a simple mixture of flour, eggs, sugar, cinnamon, butter and water, which is heated on the stove and then scooped onto the waffle iron. Once the churros are cooked, brush them with butter and dip them in cinnamon sugar. Their nooks and crannies provide the perfect space for the chocolate sauce to pool.
Cinnamon-Raisin Puff Pastry WaffleRobyn LeeFor a treat that's reminiscent of cinnamon raisin toast, but much more special, try this delectable filled waffle, made by rolling cream cheese, raisins, cinnamon, and sugar inside a spiral of puff pastry dough. Press it in a waffle iron for 10 minutes, until the waffle is flaky and crisp outside, hot and buttery inside.
Chocolate-Cinnamon Swirl MeringuesNila JonesNot only are these meringues beautiful to look at, they're impressively easy to make. The only real tricks involved are using slightly melted sugar and incorporating it into the beaten egg whites one spoonful at a time, in order to keep the meringues as airy as possible. After forming the meringues, dust them with cocoa powder and cinnamon, then bake them until they're light and crispy—depending on the humidity level, that can take anywhere from two to four hours. But we promise they're worth it.
Roasted Sweet Plantains With Cream and CinnamonRoast it in a 350°F oven until lightly caramelized and the plantain has absorbed the cream, giving it a rich, custard-like texture.J. Kenji López-AltYou'll need just four ingredients to make this custardy Colombian dessert: plantains, crème fraîche, cinnamon, and sugar. Combine them all and roast for about 30 minutes, until the sugar has started to caramelize and the cream is soaked into the plantains, turning them soft and rich, almost pudding-like. If you don't have or can't find crème fraîche to substitute for thicker, lightly sour Colombian heavy cream, a mix of heavy cream and sour cream works well.
Apple Oatmeal CookiesThese chewy oatmeal cookies have a ton of apple flavor thanks to apple sauce and chopped apples in the dough.Carrie VasiosWe use both unsweetened applesauce and chopped Granny Smiths to cram these cookies with lots of fruit flavor. Because the applesauce provides plenty of its own moisture, just a couple of tablespoons of butter are needed. Hearty, nutty oatmeal turns the cookies pleasantly chewy, while cinnamon rounds out the flavor.
Cinnamon-Apple Baked OatmealYvonne RupertiYour default method for making oatmeal is probably on the stovetop, or maybe you prefer the microwave. But don't forget that there's a third option: baking. Though you may be loath to turn on your oven just for breakfast, baked oatmeal is an incredibly easy, hands-off meal, and it scales up well if you're serving many. We add tart Granny Smith apple and cinnamon to this version, along with half a cup of chopped walnuts for crunch and light brown sugar for warm sweetness.
Ancho Chili-Cinnamon BrowniesCarrie Vasios MullinsIt's hard to go wrong with rich, fudgy chocolate brownies, but we like them best when they incorporate a little kick to offset the chocolate's sweetness. Smoky ancho chili powder, hot cayenne, and earthy cinnamon do the job nicely in this recipe. A combination of unsweetened and bittersweet chocolate gives the brownies an intense chocolate flavor and won't leave them too sugary.
Moist and Chewy Lebkuchen (German Spiced Christmas Cookies)Vicky WasikThese German Christmas treats are rich with warm spices, toasted nuts, and candied fruit, and they're glazed to perfection. In addition to cinnamon, the dough include spices like nutmeg, cloves, allspice, and cardamom. Though the cookies can be baked and cut into bars, you can also chill the dough for at least four hours, then scoop them into smaller cookies before baking. Whether you opt for bars or cookies, you'll want to let them sit for some time before enjoying (if you can!)—their flavor gets better in the days following baking.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziToday’s nonstick coatings are considered safer than their ancestors and are made from polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). However, while PTFE is initially inert, it can off-gas if heated at high temperatures, potentially causing polymer fume fever—a rare condition that manifests in flu-like symptoms.
With proper care (and retiring nonstick pans when they’re damaged), traditional nonstick is thought to be safe for general use. But for those who’d like to avoid it, there’s ceramic cookware. Its coating is derived from silica, which is found in organic materials like beach sand and granite. This surface will still degrade over time, but there’s no risk of off-gassing.
To find the best ceramic cookware, I went through nearly four dozen eggs, evaluating 11 skillets.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Caraway’s sloping walls are tall enough to accommodate dinner-sized sautées or saucy braises and it’s oven-safe up to 550ºF. The nonstick surface released food easily and didn’t scratch during my tests.
This thick-bottomed pan performed very well. Eggs and crepes slid off of the nonstick surface and its coating was durable and didn't scratch in my durability test. This pan was heavy enough to be substantial but light enough to maneuver with one hand. It’s oven-safe up to 550ºF.
The Kyocera skillet features deep walls and a scratch-resistant nonstick coating. The pan’s angled sides contain food well and its rounded handle is comfortable to hold.
The TestsAfter making 11 omelettes, I had a good idea about which skillets to recommend.Serious Eats / Madeline Muzzi Fried Egg Test: I fried one sunny-side-up egg in each skillet to test the pan’s nonstick properties. I heated each skillet and cracked the egg directly into the pan without using any oil or butter. Once the whites were set, I used a nonstick spatula to lift the egg out of the pan, checking for sticking. * Omelette Test: I used each pan to prepare a three-egg omelette, evaluating the pan’s nonstick abilities and how easy it was to remove the omelette. * Durability Test: To test for durability, I used a metal fish spatula and even pressure to scrape the surface of each pan 10 times. Afterward, I checked for any scrapes or marks. * Crepe Test: I made three crepes in each of the top pans to test for performance and ease of use. I looked for even cooking and evaluated comfort and handling. * Cleanup Test:* I washed the pans according to their manufacturers’ instructions after each test, checking for any wear.
What We LearnedThe Color of the Pans’ Coatings Didn’t MatterThe skillet's surface color proved not to be a deciding factor.Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziCeramic coatings come in a range of colors. I tested white, cream, copper, light gray, and black skillets. In the beginning, I suspected lighter pans would show wear quicker, but my durability test didn’t reveal any connection between color and scratch resistance. I also didn’t observe any difference in cooking time while making fried eggs, omelettes, or crepes. I investigated the matter and learned that coating color is linked to consumer perception. Ceramic cookware manufacturers may choose lighter coatings to differentiate their pans from traditional nonstick skillets, which are almost always black.
Scratches and Dings Were Dealbreakers Durability was a huge factor in this test. Skillets that scratched didn't make my top picks.Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziThings were looking pretty good after the first two tests—fried eggs and omelettes slid right off of each pan’s new nonstick surface. The skillets started to show their true colors when I brought out a fish spatula. It’s worth noting that most manufacturers don’t recommend using metal utensils on nonstick surfaces. I chose a harsh tool as a stress test to see how they might hold up after repeated use. Even though ceramic nonstick pans are made without traditional nonstick materials, they should still be retired once they start to chip or degrade. Nonstick pans already have a short shelf life, and ceramic coatings tend to be more fragile than their chemical counterparts.
Only three pans—the winners—emerged without any wear. The Caraway, Le Creuset, and Kyocera surfaces didn’t scratch or chip, even after repeated scrapes. The worst offender was the GreenLife Diamond Ceramic Nonstick Skillet, which scratched right away and ended up with long streaks showing the path of the spatula. Overall, the results of the durability test suggested a link between price and quality. The Caraway, Le Creuset, and Kyocera represented three of the most expensive pans I tested. (Editor’s note: That said, we still recommend cheap, traditional nonstick pans—expensive versions of these are just as durable as budget ones.)
I Preferred Rounded Handles The Gotham Steel skillet (shown here) had a flat handle that was uncomfortable to hold.Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziA handle can make or break cookware. Some of the skillets I tested, like the BulbHead Red Copper and Gotham Steel, had flat handles. These were less comfortable to hold—the thin edges dug into my palm while lifting and maneuvering the pan. Larger, rounded handles distributed weight more evenly. Pans like the Tramontina Deluxe and Caraway felt comfortable in the hand and were easy to work with. The Tramontina’s handle included a silicone pad for added comfort and the Caraway’s hollow, rounded design stayed reasonably cool on the stovetop.
Wall Shape Impacted Versatility Low walls made it easier to remove food.Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziSkillet size is often described by diameter—eight-, 10-, and 12-inch pans are all standard. A 10-inch skillet should have enough room to comfortably fry two to three eggs without overcrowding. During testing, I found that wall design impacted capacity.
I preferred skillets with tall, rounded walls, which increased capacity, but were still easy to work with. Steeper-sloping walls (like on the Kyocera) meant more finesse was necessary to flip and remove food.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Ceramic CookwareSerious Eats / Madeline MuzziMy favorite ceramic skillets had slippery, smooth surfaces that nothing stuck to. They also featured comfortable, rounded handles and excellent durability. Because ceramic cookware is already more fragile than nonstick, I prioritized scratch-resistant skillets.
Our Ceramic Cookware Top PicksWhat we liked: I loved the Caraway pan’s deep, rounded shape. The walls were tall, but it was still easy to sneak a spatula under the edge of a crepe. The smooth nonstick surface released everything I cooked in it and didn’t scratch during my durability test. This pan comes in eight colors and compatible lids are available separately.
What we didn’t like: At five pounds, this was by far the heaviest model I tested. I thought the pan was well-balanced and manageable, but this still may be too heavy for some cooks.
Key Specs Weight: 5 pounds * Materials: Aluminum, ceramic * Care: Hand-wash only; avoid metal utensils * Maximum oven temperature: 550ºF * Induction compatible*: Yes
What we liked: The Le Creuset skillet’s surface was smooth but tough. Eggs, crepes, and omelettes all lifted cleanly off of its surface and the coating resisted scratching. This pan had a sturdy, thick bottom but was light enough to toss and shake with one hand.
What we didn’t like: The Le Creuset pan is shallower than the Caraway and Kyocera skillets. It’s perfect for eggs and crepes but might not be spacious enough for sauces or larger portions or sauteed veggies. At $110, this is the priciest pan I tested.
Key Specs Weight: 2 pounds, 10 ounces * Materials: Ceramic, aluminum, and stainless steel * Care: Dishwasher-safe; hand-washing is recommended * Maximum oven temperature: 550ºF * Induction compatible:* Yes
What we liked: The Kyocera delivers quality at a lower price point. It was the cheapest skillet to pass my durability test. The nonstick coating didn’t chip or scratch after repeated passes with a metal fish spatula. During testing, eggs scooted around the smooth surface. This midweight pan was easy to lift and shake but heavy enough to feel sturdy.
What we didn’t like: Compared to the Caraway’s rounded design, it was more difficult to maneuver around this pan’s steeply angled walls. Getting a spatula under a crepe took more finesse.
Key Specs Weight: 1 pound * Materials: Ceramic, aluminum, and stainless steel * Care: Hand-wash only * Maximum oven temperature: 400ºF * Induction compatible:* Yes
The Competition* BulbHead Red Copper 10-Inch Pan: This small skillet had a thin metal handle that became uncomfortably hot during cooking. The nonstick surface chipped after scratching it with a metal spatula. * GreenPan Valencia Pro Hard Anodized Ceramic Nonstick Skillet: At $70, this was one of the more expensive pans on the list. It was the only high-priced skillet that failed the durability test. * Blue Diamond Ceramic Nonstick Frying Pan: This model was thin and flimsy. The nonstick surface displayed a few dings after the durability test. * Gotham Steel Nonstick Frying Pan: This was another inexpensive skillet with a thin metal handle that got too hot. The surface scratched, too. * KitchenAid Hard Anodized Ceramic Frying Pan: The KitchenAid skillet might be the best of the rest. It emerged from the durability test with some gentle, overall wear but no major scratches or dings. * Bialetti Ceramic Pro Non-Stick Pan: This light pan scratched quickly after light scraping. * GreenLife Diamond Ceramic Nonstick Skillet: A metal spatula left long scratches on this skillet’s nonstick surface. * Tramontina Deluxe Ceramic Nonstick Fry Pan: This pan’s nonstick coating displayed wear after testing. The low maximum oven temperature (350ºF) limits its potential uses.
FAQsIs ceramic cookware safe? Some studies suggest that cooking with scratched or abraded ceramic nonstick surfaces presents a risk ofnanoparticle migration, but the exact health risks linked to ceramic nanoparticles are unknown.
Is ceramic cookware non-toxic?Ceramic cookware does not contain PFAs or PTFEs—potentially harmful chemicals formerly or currently found in traditional nonstick cookware.
How do you clean ceramic cookware? Gentle cleaning techniques will prolong the life of ceramic coatings—even small scratches reduce the effectiveness of nonstick surfaces. Most manufacturers recommend hand-washing nonstick cookware. For best results, avoid using abrasive tools, such as the rough side of a sponge.
How long does ceramic cookware last?Ceramic nonstick cookware lasts from one to five years depending on quality, care, and use. Proper care will extend the lifespan of your pan. For best results, avoid using metal utensils and refrain from stacking other dishes on top of the nonstick surface during storage. Use gentle handwashing techniques to protect the ceramic coating.
Why We’re the Experts* Madeline Muzzi has over 10 years of experience as a food writer and recipe tester. * She’s tested and reviewed kitchen products for over five years and has banished traditional nonstick cookware from her kitchen. * For this review, she tested 11 ceramic nonstick pans, evaluating their performance and durability.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI love a fancy dessert, but I am not immune to the charm and nostalgia of a simple yellow cake—even one made from a box. There is a time and place for everything, and sometimes, like when you need enough cake to feed 25 hungry children and their parents, cake made from a box mix is exactly what you need. But with so many brands available in grocery stores, it can be difficult to know which is worth keeping in your pantry for those times when you need a simple sweet in a hurry.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSo, in our most recent taste test, we pulled together eight different yellow cake mixes you’re likely to find in your local supermarket, baked them up, and sampled them without the tasters knowing which brands they were trying. After tasting our way through eight different yellow cake mixes, we found an overall winner we’d be happy to satisfy our sweet tooth with and even serve to company, as well as several other worthy contenders. Read on for all the details.
The CriteriaYellow cake is the classic American celebration dessert. For many of our editors, the cake—which tends to come frosted in chocolate or vanilla buttercream and speckled with sprinkles—is reminiscent of childhood birthday parties and other special occasions. Just like a homemade yellow cake, a great yellow cake from a mix should be tender, moist, and fluffy. It should have a hint of vanilla and just enough sweetness to make it delicious enough to eat on its own—but not so much that it tastes like straight-up sugar. And because it’s a yellow cake, it should have a pleasant, lightly golden hue. It doesn’t have to taste homemade, but it should be good enough that you’d happily make it when you’re too tired to bake from scratch and want a stress-free dessert option.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOverall Winner: King Arthur Baking Gluten-Free Classic Yellow Cake MixPlot twist! Our winner is…a gluten-free cake. Because we couldn’t get our hands on King Arthur Baking’s Golden Yellow Cake Mix at any grocery stores near us, we opted for their gluten-free mix, which we easily found in Whole Foods, instead. Our tasters loved how moist and fluffy this cake is—our senior social media editor, Kelli Solomon, described it as “very moist and tender,” while our associate visuals director, Amanda Suarez, said, “This is the only one I wanted to eat a whole piece of.”
It's worth noting that at $8.95, this is by far the most expensive cake mix we tried (others ranged from $2.29 to $4.99). It is also the only cake mix that calls for both butter and oil in addition to eggs and milk—the rest called for oil and several eggs. It's also one of only two mixes we tested that requires an electric mixer, while the others require little more than whisking the ingredients together in a bowl. Though slightly fussier than other cake mixes, it did produce an incredibly luscious batter that could have passed for a cake batter made from scratch by beating together butter and sugar until fluffy. With the exception of one taster who detected a slightly gritty texture that can accompany gluten-free flours, everyone else thought it was airy, light, and fairly moist.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRunners Up: Our Favorite Yellow Cake MixesThe Best Yellow Cake for a Celebration: Trader Joe’s Celebration Cake & Baking MixOur editorial director, Daniel Gritzer, thought this tasted like cornbread, which he did not hate. “Cornbread is delicious, but it’s also very specific,” he wrote. Like Daniel, our associate editorial director, Megan O. Steintrager, thought it tasted just like a corn muffin, which she liked (in fact, this was her top-rated cake): “Tender but a bit dry—which sort of works with the corn muffin vibe.” Surprisingly, there is absolutely no cornmeal in the ingredient list for this one. Tasters liked the subtle vanilla flavor of this mix, though some found it a touch too sweet.
This is the perfect all-in-one dessert kit if you don’t want to worry about having to make buttercream from scratch or purchasing sprinkles. The box, which costs just $4.99, comes with a bag of cake mix, frosting mix, and a bag of sprinkles, making it the most seamless and straightforward option for making a celebration cake. (We tasted the cake plain to keep the tests fair, since none of the other cakes included sprinkles or frosting.)
The Moistest Yellow Cake: Duncan Hines Classic Yellow Cake MixEveryone commented on how moist this cake was. “Is there such a thing as too moist?” Kelli asked. Daniel thought this yellow cake—which was his overall top pick—had a “nice, light, airy crumb with good tenderness and moisture,” while Amanda deemed it her ideal cake texture. It wasn’t overly sweet and had just the right amount of vanilla.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Contenders* King Arthur Baking Gluten-Free Classic Yellow Cake Mix $8.95 * Betty Crocker Super Moist Yellow Cake Mix $2.39 * Duncan Hines Classic Yellow Cake Mix $2.29 * Pillsbury Moist Supreme Yellow Cake Mix $2.49 * Betty Crocker Super Moist Butter Recipe Yellow Cake Mix $2.49 * Bob’s Red Mill Yellow Cake Mix $4.46 * 365 by Whole Foods Classic Yellow Cake Mix $3.49 * Trader Joe’s Celebration Cake & Baking Mix $4.99
In Conclusion
Most yellow cake mixes did not fare well in our taste test. With the exception of the three mentioned above, all other cake mixes were either too sweet, dry, or dense for our liking. Many brands struggled to nail down the vanilla flavor, and some cakes left an unpleasant aftertaste that reminded us of marshmallows or almond extract. Overall, our favorite yellow cake mixes were those that were able to strike a balance between sweetness, salt, and vanilla flavoring, regardless of whether it was artificial or natural vanilla. Unlike many of the cake mixes, our overall winner and runners up were all sweetened with cane sugar and did not contain corn syrup, which speaks to our editors’ preferences for a balanced cake that isn’t cloyingly sweet.
Our Testing Methodology
All taste tests are conducted with brands completely hidden and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample 1 first, while taster B will taste sample 6 first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill our tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation of actual results possible.
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowImagine a cold, late winter morning in Vermont. The sun is shining but there’s still a blanket of snow on the ground. Chilly air nips at your toes through a layer of wool socks and boots, and as the breeze picks up, you detect a distinctly sweet smell mingling with woodsmoke: It’s maple sugaring season.
Although syrup is made from March through early April, there’s something about a cool fall day that brings maple to mind. “The second the weather starts to change, I see an uptick in sales,” says Jon Osborne, the owner of Osborne Family Maple in northern Vermont. I spoke to Osborne about maple because in addition to being my family’s “syrup guy,” he’s also our “firewood guy,” and has a wealth of knowledge about what goes into making the best maple syrup. We caught up on a phone call set to the low roar of a chainsaw in the background; as I learned, making good maple syrup is, in part, about maintaining a healthy forest. I also tasted my way through enough artisan-made syrup that my bloodstream is now primarily tree sap, and I came away with six standout recommendations.
How Is Maple Syrup Made?“Making maple syrup comes down to the art and science of removing water from maple tree sap,” Osborne explains. But before that, the tap must be collected from mature maple trees and brought to a sugar house (colloquially known as a sugar shack). Collection methods have gotten more sophisticated as production has scaled, so these days, you won’t see too many metal buckets affixed to maple trunks. Most moderate-to-large-scale syrup producers use tap lines, running from the trees in a complex web through a maple forest, or sugarbush. The sap is deposited at collection sites or directly into the sugarhouse, where most of the water is removed.
“Most modern operations incorporate reverse osmosis, which removes the vast majority of the water before it even reaches the evaporator,” explains Osborne, who removes about three-quarters of the water from any given batch of sap. Reverse osmosis keeps fuel costs down, because less energy is required to run the evaporation process.
What Are the Maple Syrup Grades?Maple syrup that's darker tends to be stronger in flavor.Serious Eats / Kristin KempaIf the words “fancy” and “Grade B” are coming to mind, it’s time for a reeducation. While maple used to be classified as Grade A, B, or C, all commercially available syrup now proudly wears an A Grade. The difference is in the color and concentration—how much water has been removed from the sap. Although Vermont was the first state to implement the new USDA-approved grading system in 2014, it’s now widely used. The four Grade A categories of syrup are: golden color with delicate taste, amber color with rich taste, dark color with robust taste, and very dark color with strong flavor.
In reality, determining a syrup’s grade isn’t so simple. “It’s like trying to nail jelly to a wall,” Osborne tells me. “Every batch of syrup is slightly different and even within a single boil, I’ve noticed flavor and color variances.” That said, he agrees the new naming conventions are the industry’s best attempt to standardize the tasting experience. Is there a best shade of maple syrup? Not according to Osborne. “People ask me what my favorite grade is, and I really don’t have one. It could be a light, delicate syrup or a dark and stormy one. They’re both special.”
Why Is Maple Syrup So Expensive? High-quality, pure maple syrup costs more than table syrup for a handful of reasons. Primarily, it’s because maple syrup is a limited resource. It takes a lot of tree sap to make maple syrup—on average, just over 40 gallons of sap for each gallon of syrup. Maple sugaring is also a high-stress, physically demanding job that requires year-round work. As I mentioned above, Osborne also sells firewood. That’s not just a side hustle: It’s the product of maintaining a thriving sugarbush. In addition to being a tree surgeon, he’s constantly fixing broken tap lines because of trees falling on them, squirrels gnawing through them, and moose walking into them (really!).
Due to climate change, the weather window for maple sugaring grows shorter and less predictable every year. Sugaring requires warm daytime temperatures and freezing nights that allow the sap to thaw and run freely through the tap lines, but stay fresh. As winter gets warmer, sugarmakers scramble to collect and process enough sap, but they don’t always end up with as robust a production as they’d planned. “It’s the plight of small-scale agriculture,” Osborne says as we wrap up our call, adding that his goal is to scale for efficiency while remaining small enough that he can still add that personal touch to every aspect of the process. “Sometimes there can be a disconnect between the sugarmaker and the customer. But then I talk to people in Texas who buy my syrup. I get to know them and their families, and I realize that connection is strong.”
Our Favorite Pure Maple SyrupLike a fine wine, this syrup’s tasting notes vary from year to year. Osborne offers two grades: flavorful amber rich and a headier dark robust. Choose your vessel (plastic or glass) and your desired quantity (pints, quarts, half-gallons, and beyond), and get ready to be transported to the woods of northern Vermont. Osborne’s syrup is one of three foods my boyfriend’s daughter will eat consistently, and I can’t say I blame her: It’s really that good.
Key Specs Tasting notes: Vanilla bean and toffee with a surprisingly refreshing saline backbone * Uses: Drizzling on pancakes and topping vanilla ice cream (add a sprinkle of sea salt, too!) * Grade: Amber color with rich flavor. Also available: dark color with robust flavor * Origin: Ferdinand, Vermont * Quantity:* 16 ounces
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowLocated in Southern Vermont, Hidden Springs is an idyllic sugaring operation run by the Cooper-Ellis family, who have over 50 years of experience in the maple syrup industry. In addition to selling syrup online, Hidden Springs operates a farm store, open from May to December.
Key Specs Tasting notes: Barrel-aged whiskey, date-studded fruitcake, espresso and dark chocolate * Uses: Fantastic in savory recipes, like marinades, salmon, and roasted vegetables. A standout in lattes and espresso drinks * Grade: Very dark color with strong flavor. Also available: amber color with rich flavor, dark color with robust flavor * Origin: Putney, Vermont * Quantity:* 32 ounces
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowBarred Woods—named for the owl—is located deep in Northern Vermont. This family-run operation takes its land stewardship seriously, maintaining 1,500 acres of woods that’s open to the public for hiking, skiing, and fishing. Barred Woods partners with Vermont Audubon to maximize a friendly-to-songbirds habitat, and it works with the American Carbon Registry to capture and sequester carbon.
Key Specs Tasting notes: Butterscotch pudding, shortbread, and candy; a very round, rich example in the amber-rich category * Uses: A great option for baking, especially breakfast recipes like this baked oatmeal * Grade: Amber color with rich flavor. Also available: dark color with robust flavor * Origin: Underhill, Vermont * Quantity:* 16 ounces
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowButternut Mountain has a wider reach than some of the other producers on this list, but it still produces syrup with heart and integrity. (Side note: Its maple leaf cookies are really good.) This wax-sealed bottle of syrup has a good story to tell: It’s produced during the first run of sugaring season. It’s a special bottle to give to friends and family—or anyone not lucky enough to live in Vermont.
Key Specs Tasting notes: Almost impossibly light, save for the whisper of a tannic backbone; reminiscent of black tea with an irresponsible amount of sugar * Uses: Sugar on snow and in cocktails like this twist on a Daiquiri * Grade: Amber color with rich flavor * Origin: Vermont * Quantity:* 8.5 ounces
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowEscuminac is a Canadian maple syrup producer, but we won’t hold it against them. The sugarbush and operation have been certified organic since 2006, and is run by third-generation sugarmaker Martin Malefant, who has been making syrup since the purchase of his first sugarhouse in 1987.
Key Specs Tasting notes: Boozy eggnog, figs and crème brûlée * Uses: Adding sweetness to a bowl of spiked punch * Grade: Dark color with robust flavor. Also available: Extra Rare (amber color with rich flavor) and Great Harvest (dark amber color with rich flavor) * Origin: Quebec, Canada * Quantity:* 6.75 ounces
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowRunamok is another Vermont-based syrup producer on a slightly larger scale. It operates a few sugarbushes around the state, and although it produces more “serious” syrups, like its peak-season amber Sugarmaker’s cut, the company is beloved for its whimsical, nontraditional syrups, like this one aged in a bourbon barrel, and a sparkle syrup. I especially like the Pumpkin Spice Infused syrup, which may sound silly, but it’s all business—and no suspicious “natural flavors.” It’s pure maple syrup combined with cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, vanilla, and clove.
The Sugarmaker's cut is about as Vermonty as it gets: buttery-sweet, with a fudge-like flavor that truly melts on the tongue. It's a fantastic bottle at a reasonable price.
Key Specs Pumpkin Spice Infused tasting notes: Mulled cider with a hint of rum; an especially strong showing by the clove and ginger * Sugarmaker's Cut tasting notes: Sweet cream and vanilla bean; buttery fudge * Uses: In a yogurt bowl or baked into granola * Grade: None stated * Origin: Fairfax, Vermont * Quantity:* 12.7 or 25.36 ounces
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowFAQsHow do you tell the difference between pure maple syrup and fake maple syrup?Syrup made from 100% maple tree sap with no additional ingredients is labeled as pure—and that term is regulated by the USDA. “Fake” maple syrup is just syrup made with sucrose and maple flavoring (or sometimes, a mix of sugar syrup and pure maple syrup). It’s often called table syrup.
What is wood-fired maple syrup?To remove much of the water in sap, it has to be heated. Many sugarmakers today use propane to heat the vats of sap, although Osborne notes that environmentally conscious electrical evaporators are increasingly common. I asked him if using wood to heat the syrup imparted any unique tasting notes, and he hedged for a moment before answering. “There have been some studies on whether wood affects the flavor of maple syrup. I don’t think it does. But wood-fired maple syrup is aligned with small-batch sugarmakers who have a more personal touch. So maybe there is something there.”
What is organic maple syrup?Unlike organic vegetables, which are grown without the use of pesticides, organic maple syrup earns its certification largely by responsible forest management. The guidelines for an organic product vary from region to region, but they’re similar. The Vermont Organic Farmers association, for example, prohibits the use of synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides, to obtain and maintain a certification. Earning an organic certification as a sugarmaker means proving you grow, harvest, and produce syrup with sustainable practices.
What are the best maple syrup brands?Most supermarket maple syrup brands are made with a blend of syrups from different sugarmakers. The reason is economies of scale: To produce enough syrup to line grocery store shelves, you need a lot of sap. “Those can be fine syrups,” Osborne says, although he admits he prefers syrups made by one producer in a single “tree-to-table” line of production. If that sounds like something you’re interested in, search for the term “single source” on your syrup bottle. That typically indicates a sign of thoughtful craftspersonship. These syrups are more difficult to find on online retailers, but some producers offer shipping through their own websites.
Why We’re the Experts* Rochelle Bilow is a commerce editor at Serious Eats, and has been writing about food professionally for 15 years. * She lives in Vermont, where the most delicious syrup is made, and will not be hearing opinions to the contrary. * For this story, Rochelle spoke with a sugarmaker based in northern Vermont and tasted different grades of maple syrup from artisan sugarmakers.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteFor the past year, my colleagues and I have made hundreds of scotch eggs—sausage-wrapped boiled eggs that are fried until golden brown and crisp—at a British grill and smokehouse in Bowness-on-Windermere, a town in northeast England’s Lake District. The traditional version of the snack made with juicy pork sausage and chicken eggs is a British classic, but these days chefs often put their own twists on the dish by changing the type of sausage or egg. Some may reach for quail eggs, duck eggs, or even pickled eggs and wrap them in blood sausage, lamb sausage, or smoked fish, with some chefs even preparing vegetarian renditions with plant-based sausage.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteOf all the scotch eggs I’ve eaten, however, the version I enjoy most is still the one I prepare at work, where I envelope soft-boiled eggs with a savory apple and pork sausage, coat it in breadcrumbs, and fry it until it’s crisp. Cut in half and served alongside a ramekin of homemade piccalilli (vegetables pickled with ground turmeric, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, and English mustard powder), the dish is so popular that it frequently sells out within the first two hours of lunch service each day. To avoid disappointing customers, our front-of-house staff members have a dedicated space on their whiteboard to keep track of the number of scotch eggs left to sell.
Scotch eggs have been kicking around Britain for centuries, but the origins of the dish are murky. Despite its name, the dish does not hail from Scotland; writing for Country Life, food writer (and son of Britain's Queen Camilla, wife of Charles III) Tom Parker Bowles notes that the name may come from “the alternative meaning of ‘Scotch,’ meaning to cut, score, or gash.” The proprietors of the upscale department store Fortnum & Mason claim they invented the dish in 1738 when they wrapped a pullet egg—an egg from a young hen—with a mixture of chopped meat, anchovies, eggs, and breadcrumbs. (According to Parker Bowles, the evidence—in the form of archival documents—was apparently destroyed during World War I, so this claim is difficult to prove.)
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteIt’s also possible that the dish was inspired by Indian nargisi kofta, a dish that consists of a boiled egg wrapped in a spiced minced beef and onion mixture that’s fried in ghee or butter, which is the theory that food historian Annette Hope puts forward in her 1987 book A Caledonian Feast. Regardless of how they came about, scotch eggs continue to be a mainstay of pub menus and picnic feasts across Britain. Scotch egg preferences can be deeply personal, and many Brits remain opinionated on the best eggs to use, the ideal firmness of the yolk, how best to season the sausage, what condiments to pair with them, and whether they should be served hot or cold. Personally, I like them piping hot with a runny soft-boiled egg.
The Best Sausage to Use for Scotch EggsTraditionally, scotch eggs are made with British pork sausage. However, British sausages differ greatly from American sausages, in both texture and flavor: While American sausages are usually made with finely ground meat, fat, and some seasonings, British sausages start with coarser chopped or minced pork, fat, and seasonings, and a breadcrumb filler.Unlike America sausages with their typically mild flavor profile, the British version leans more heavily on spices and herbs like nutmeg, sage, mace, thyme, and/or parsley. There are more than 400 different kinds of British sausages produced nationally, which means the flavor of scotch eggs varies from restaurant to restaurant and will ultimately depend on the type of sausage meat used.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteMy recipe below calls for ground pork, as that will be much easier for most American home cooks to find than British or Irish-style sausages. If possible, I recommend heading to your local butcher and asking for coarse ground pork, which isn’t as finely minced as store-bought ground pork and more closely resembles the texture of British sausages. If that isn’t available, ask for a blend of meat that’s one part pork fat to four parts ground pork.
If you’re able to get your hands on British- or Irish-style sausages, or any raw pork sausages, you can cut through the sausage casing, remove the meat, and use that for the recipe. When using pre-seasoned sausages, omit breadcrumbs and reduce salt, pepper, thyme, and nutmeg by half. Fresh parsley and chives can be kept at their original quantity. (Avoid sausages with overpowering seasonings like jalapeño or cayenne pepper.)
Measure Out Your PorkThe best way to ensure a successful, fully cooked scotch egg is to weigh and portion the minced meat for each egg to be sure you aren't using too much or too little. The more meat you wrap your egg with, the longer you’ll have to deep fry it—and the longer you fry it, the more likely you are to burn the breadcrumb coating. I settled on 100g (about three and a half ounces) minced meat per egg. If you don't have a kitchen scale, just divide the meat into four equal portions and eyeball it to the best of your ability.)
Use Soft-Boiled EggsMaybe using soft-boiled eggs is a personal preference. Maybe it’s truly the better option. The yolk tastes richer when it’s semi-cooked, and the differing textures between the sausage, egg whites, and the runny yolk give the dish more depth. But if you prefer a firm yolk, feel free to make your scotch eggs with hard-boiled eggs.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteHow to Serve Scotch EggsTraditionally, scotch eggs are eaten as a cold picnic snack or served as a warm snack and appetizer at restaurants and pubs. You could certainly serve them as a cocktail party snack or as a starter or side at a dinner party. I recommend enjoying scotch eggs alongside something sweet and tangy like pickles, relish, or mustard to balance the richness of the scotch egg. Or let the scotch egg speak for itself and enjoy it on its own.
Prepare an ice bath by filling a medium bowl halfway with ice cubes and cold water; set aside.
Bring 3 quarts (2.8L) water to boil in a large pot. Carefully lower 4 eggs into pot and cook for six and a half minutes. Using a spider skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer eggs to ice bath and allow to cool for at least 15 minutes before peeling under cool running water; set eggs aside.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteIn a medium bowl, combine 1/2 cup (30g) panko breadcrumbs, parsley, chives, thyme, nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and pepper. Add ground pork and, using a clean hand, gently mix, teasing apart ground meat with your fingers, just until mixture comes together and no unincorporated breadcrumbs and herbs remain. Avoid mixing any more than necessary.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteForm pork mixture into 4 portions (about 3 1/2 ounces or 100g each); set aside on a large plate or 9- by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteSet 3 wide, shallow bowls on a work surface. Add 3/4 cup flour to (100g) the first bowl, 3 eggs to the second bowl; and 2 cups (100g) panko breadcrumbs to the third bowl. Using a fork, whisk eggs.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteCover your kitchen counter with a 9- by 13-inch piece of plastic wrap. Place 1 portion of the ground pork mixture on top of the plastic wrap and, using wet hands, flatten meat into a 5-mm thick, 5-inch wide patty.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteIn a large saucepan, heat 2 quarts of oil over high heat until the oil registers 338ºF (170ºC) on an instant-read thermometer.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteMeanwhile: Dredge 1 boiled egg in flour, shaking off excess. Place egg in center of the sausage patty. Using the plastic wrap, lift sides of patty to wrap it around the egg until egg is completely encased in ground pork, using your fingers to gently shape the meat evenly around the egg and seal. Dredge wrapped egg in flour, shaking of excess. Transfer scotch egg to egg dish, and, using your right hand, turn to evenly coat. Lift and allow excess egg to drain, then transfer to bread crumb mixture. With your left hand, scoops breadcrumbs over scotch egg, then gently press, turning to ensure a good layer of crumbs on both sides. Return egg to large plate or 9- by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet and repeat with remaining eggs.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteWorking in batches, carefully use a slotted spoon to gently lower 2 eggs into the pan. Temperature will drop; adjust flame to maintain oil temperature as needed. Cook until golden brown, crisp, pork is fully cooked and no longer pink, and registers 160ºF (71ºC) on an instant-read thermometer, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain and season with salt right away. Repeat with remaining eggs.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteUsing a serrated knife, halve eggs. (The yolk should be jammy and slightly more set than a soft-boiled egg.) Serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteSpecial EquipmentLarge pot, spider skimmer or slotted spoon, large plate or 9- by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet, plastic wrap, instant-read thermometer
NotesScotch eggs can be served cold or at room temperature. The pork will be firmer when cold, making it easier to pick up and eat as a snack. However, the breadcrumbs will be softer.
The recipe can be doubled if desired.
If you don’t own a kitchen scale, do your best to divide the meat into equal portions.
Make-Ahead and StorageEggs can be boiled, peeled, and refrigerated in an airtight container 1 day in advance.
Scotch eggs can be prepared up to step 8 and refrigerated in a paper towel-lined airtight container for up to 2 days. When ready to fry, proceed with step 8.
If eaten cold or room temperature, scotch eggs can be fried up to 2 days beforehand and stored in a paper towel-lined sealed container in the fridge. Eat them straight out of the fridge, or leave them at room temperature for 30 minutes before eating.
To reheat fully cooked scotch eggs, preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Bake eggs until warmed through or they have an internal temperature of 145ºF (63ºC), about 10 minutes.
Getty Images / Picture PartnersWhat's your "smells like home" meal? For me and many Thai people I know, it’s not a meal, per se, but an integral component of a meal: jasmine rice, or khao hom mali. The fragrant aroma of a fresh pot of steamed jasmine rice is about as comforting as it gets.
“Jasmine rice is special,” says Pranee Khruasanit Halvorsen, a Seattle-based Thai cooking instructor. “It's an occasion, almost a dish in and of itself. It's like when you whip out the good olive oil.”
Thai jasmine rice has won numerous “best rice in the world” conference titles and awards. Its fragrance and tender grains make it an ideal pairing for a number of dishes, from spicy stir fries to creamy rice puddings. But beyond aroma and taste, what makes this grain so unique? I spoke with Halvorsen to uncover more about jasmine rice. Read on to learn about the cultivation of jasmine rice, how to shop for and cook it, and ideas for using it in various cuisines.
How Jasmine Rice Is CultivatedJasmine is a relatively new rice variety discovered by accident in 1945 by a farmer in Thailand's Chonburi region. The rice was named Khao Dawk Mali (jasmine rice) 105. Today, jasmine rice is still primarily grown in Thailand, particularly in the northeastern region of the country, but it can also be found in Cambodia, Laos, and Southern Vietnam. The warm, tropical climate and the seasonal monsoon rains create the perfect conditions for this long-grain rice variety to thrive. In this region, rice seedlings are usually grown in a nursery, planted by hand in the early rainy season (May to June), and harvested by late autumn (October to November). In the US, farmers plant seeds directly into production fields in April and May and harvest them in September and October.
After harvesting, jasmine rice grains are typically polished to remove the husk, bran, and germ, resulting in the white rice we commonly see. However, brown jasmine rice, which retains the bran layer, is also available and offers a nuttier flavor and chewier texture. Like basmati rice, jasmine rice is often aged for several months to a year by drying out in a storage facility, which enhances certain aspects of its flavor (though the flavor will still be more prominent right after harvesting) and cooking properties, making it fluffier and less sticky when cooked.
What Does Jasmine Rice Smell and Taste Like?You would be forgiven for thinking jasmine rice smells of the jasmine plant, but the name actually comes from the color of its grain—which is as white as the jasmine flower. The rice’s aroma is, in fact, closer to the grassy, floral notes of pandan, a tropical plant of the screwpine family, which includes shrubs and evergreen trees. “Jasmine rice [from] Thailand will give you the strongest aroma and an almost silky texture,” says Halvorsen. “It's not sticky or chewy, but the grains do slightly stick together in just the right amount.”
Getty Images / AlasdairJamesWhile jasmine rice is grown in the United States, it doesn't have the same pronounced aroma and silky texture as Thai jasmine rice. It could be due to the provenance, suggests Halvorsen. “Like when you grow the same grapes in California, Italy, or France, and the wine tastes different because it takes on the taste of the land,” she says.
How to Shop for and Store Jasmine RiceA grain of jasmine rice should be pearly white, semi-translucent, long, and slender, with a length-to-width ratio of 3:1. When cooked, the grains are shiny, soft, and tender, with a natural aromatic flavor that’s most pronounced when freshly harvested. You might want to avoid rice that looks chalky, broken, or excessively white, as this may indicate that it’s been over-polished or over-processed. However, this lower grade of rice is sometimes cheaper, so it’s an option if you’re on a budget. And there are some cases, such as when you are making Vietnamese cơm tấm, that broken rice is exactly what you want to look for.
Jasmine rice is available nearly everywhere, from major market retailers to specialty grocers. But not all jasmine rice is fragrant, so you’ll want to look for jasmine rice from Southeast Asia for the best aroma and flavor. In the US, it’ll likely be imported from Thailand. Look for a green and yellow seal on the package that says “Thai Hom Mali Rice Certificate,” which indicates it’s been certified by the Thailand Department of Foreign Trade, Ministry of Commerce. "It guarantees that the rice was grown in Thailand under the conditions essential for its signature aroma and texture," says Halvorsen.
Thai jasmine rice is graded based on the percentage of whole kernels and the purity of the mix, meaning how much of the product is solely jasmine rice without other varieties mixed in. AAA is the highest export quality, with a minimum requirement of 100% whole kernels and 92% purity. An 80/20 mix—which will be labeled on the product—means a fifth of the bag contains different types of rice. Broken rice is a grade of broken kernels that’s best reserved for porridge and dishes like Vietnamese cơm tấm that specifically call for broken rice.
You might also see some bags of jasmine rice labeled “new crop,” which indicates it was packaged shortly after harvest, when the rice’s fragrance is strongest. “New crop rice is the best, if you can afford it,” says Halvorsen, as it tends to have a higher price tag. “It’s very desirable because of the aroma, but it’s also so soft and nice on the palate.” New crop rice contains more moisture than older rice, so you need less water to cook it.
If you’re not sure whether you have new crop rice, Halvorsen says to test it by making one cup of rice with one and a half cups of water. If it comes out too wet, that means it’s new crop and you’ll need to adjust the ratio and use less water next time. If it’s dry, then it’s been aged and you’ll need to add more water. Halvorsen suggests performing this test whenever you open a new bag of rice. “Because even if something says it's a new crop, you don’t know how long it’s been sitting in storage,” she explains.
As for storage, keep jasmine rice in an airtight container in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight—ideally with the moisture-absorbing packet that typically comes with the rice, which will help the grains stay fresh. If it's especially humid where you live or you're concerned about pests, you can keep your rice in the freezer, which shouldn’t affect its quality.
Signs of Well Cooked Jasmine RiceWhen made right, jasmine rice should be soft and tender, with a subtle stickiness that holds the grains together but doesn’t make them mushy. (Not thoroughly rinsing your rice before cooking it could lead to a mushy texture.) Fortunately for home cooks, rice cookers make it easy to cook jasmine rice to perfection, but you can also make stovetop rice, and Halvorsen even uses her oven to cook rice for a crowd.
Common Uses for Jasmine RiceDerek LucciJasmine rice is much more than just a side dish—it's a fragrant, flavorful, and versatile ingredient that plays a central role in Southeast Asian cuisine. As Halvorsen aptly puts it, "Cooking jasmine rice is about embracing its simplicity and letting the grain's natural fragrance and texture complement the flavors of the dish."
Here are some of the most popular ways to enjoy it:
Steamed as part of a meal. The simplest and most common use for jasmine rice is to serve it steamed as part of a balanced meal. Its texture pairs well with stir fries, curries, and soups. In Southeast Asian cuisines, jasmine rice is a staple that complements bold, flavorful dishes like thit heo nuong xa (Vietnamese grilled lemongrass pork chops), gaeng khiao waan gai (Thai green curry), phat bai horapha (Thai-style beef with basil and chiles), and rau muống xào thịt bò (sautéed morning glory).
Fried rice. Jasmine rice is often used for fried rice dishes, in which it’s commonly cooked with garlic, soy sauce, and vegetables. The rice’s slightly sticky texture makes it ideal for absorbing sauces and seasonings without becoming mushy.
Jok, congee, and other rice porridges. Jasmine rice is used to make rice porridge in many Asian cuisines. The rice is cooked with plenty of water or broth until it breaks down into a creamy consistency. It’s a comforting dish often served with pickled mustard greens, kimchi, salted eggs, marinated tofu, sautéed mushrooms, or poached chicken for breakfast or as a light meal.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezClay pot rice. Cantonese clay pot rice is cooked slowly and gently in a porous, semi-glazed clay pot until the rice is fluffy and aromatic with a satisfyingly crisp bottom. It’s commonly served with chicken and shiitake mushrooms, Chinese sausage, or soy-marinated pork belly.
Rice pudding. For an easier, quicker, more stovetop-friendly version of the iconic Thai sticky rice with mango, use jasmine rice in place of sticky rice. Unrinsed, the grains give the dessert just the right amount of starch.
The TakeawayJasmine rice is much more than a staple food—it's a cultural touchstone that embodies the comfort of home for many people. Its delicate fragrance, tender grains, and versatility in both savory and sweet dishes make it a beloved ingredient around the world. Whether served simply alongside stir fries or transformed into rice porridge, jasmine rice brings a unique balance of aroma and texture that enhances many cuisines, especially Southeast Asian ones. As you explore the magic of this grain, remember that its subtle nuances come from both the land where it's grown and the care taken in its preparation.
Serious EatsIf you want to make really good sandwiches, potato salad, and deviled eggs, you have to get the key condiment—mayonnaise—right. Mayonnaise does the heavy lifting in so many dishes, so if you’re not working with a flavorful option to begin with, don’t expect a great end result. For us, that often means making mayonnaise from scratch.
Homemade mayonnaise is incredibly simple to put together. Mayo is made with a few basic ingredients—such as eggs, oil, and mustard—you likely already have on hand, and you need nothing but a whisk, a bowl, and some elbow grease to emulsify those ingredients and turn them into a creamy, silky spread or dip. If you have an immersion blender, food processor, or blender, you can subtract the whisk and elbow grease from the equation.
Once you have your base mayonnaise, you’ve got a blank canvas for all sorts of flavorful mayo options. The Caesar mayonnaise below, created for our celebration of the Caesar salad in honor of its 100th birthday in 2024, is our favorite new recipe, but we’ve got plenty of other delicious spins on mayo, including a few vegan options. With these mayonnaise recipes under your belt, you can take your sandwiches and potato salads—as well as burgers, fries, and any other foods that welcome mayonnaise’s rich, creamy flavor—up a notch.
Two-Minute MayonnaiseDiana ChistrugaUsing an immersion blender, you end up with a cup full of creamy, perfectly emulsified, real-deal, better-than-anything-you-can-buy mayonnaise.
Egg White MayonnaiseIf you're a baker, you're probably used to having a container of leftover egg whites on hand at all times—put them to good use in this yolk-free mayo.
Caesar MayoSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThicker than a classic mayonnaise, but with the unmistakable cheesy-garlic-briny flavors of a Caesar dressing? This mayo is great on everything.
Chipotle MayonnaiseVicky WasikSpicy, cool, earthy, and smoky, this mayonnaise will bring loads of flavor to anything from chips to burgers.
Spicy 'Nduja MayonnaiseVicky WasikFor the best spicy mayonnaise, stir in some funky, salty 'nduja.
Sun-Dried Tomato and Roasted Garlic MayoFor this recipe, you'll want to reach for non-oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes and soften them in boiling water so they're easier to blend.
Basil and Parmesan MayonnaiseJoshua BouselHere, basil, parmesan, anchovies, and garlic are puréed in a food processor along with the standard mayo ingredients of egg yolk, lemon juice, and Dijon mustard; then an emulsion is formed by slowly drizzling in a combo of regular and extra-virgin olive oils.
Spicy DuckonnaiseLight and creamy, with just a hint of duck flavor, this mayonnaise is ideal for anyone wondering what to do with any leftover duck fat.
Easy Vegan Mayonnaise (With Aquafaba)J. Kenji López-AltThis two-minute egg-free mayonnaise is made from the liquid found inside a can of chickpea. Known as aquafaba, it provides plenty of protein and starch to help emulsify an egg-free mayonnaise.
Vegan Mayonnaise With Silken TofuThe most neutral, natural-tasting vegan mayo is made with a bit of silken tofu replacing the egg yolks. You might just be fooled into thinking it's regular mayo...
Serious Eats / Fred HardySavory, hearty, and packed with flavor, a well-made breakfast casserole is great for feeding a crowd. The ideal breakfast casserole should be creamy and packed with flavorful add-ins, and easy to slice into neat portions. Unfortunately, I have had some seriously bad egg casseroles in my past—ones that are so overcooked and rubbery, you could fling them across the room like a frisbee. That's why I appreciate a really good recipe for breakfast casserole, like this one from our Birmingham-based test kitchen colleague Elizabeth Mervosh.
Mervosh baked up countless casseroles to created this flavorful egg, vegetable, cheese, and sausage version that’s sure to impress everyone at your next family gathering or brunch. She gussies up her casserole with a thoughtful combination of ingredients like Italian sausage, earthy mushrooms, bright sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, onion, and heaps of fresh spinach. It’s all folded with shredded melty cheese (Gouda or cheddar) before being combined with the eggs and baked.
The casserole is easy to make and can be prepared ahead of time, so you don’t have to wake up at the break of dawn just to get breakfast on the table. Here are a few tips for a savory breakfast casserole that's extremely satisfying, not soggy, greasy, or underseasoned.
Serious Eats / Fred Hardy4 Important Steps to Guarantee a Great Savory Breakfast Casserole1. Pre-cook the sausage and vegetables. Eggs cook quickly—far too fast for fillings to do much beyond warm up a bit by the time the eggs are fully cooked. So the key to a great sausage- and vegetable-loaded egg casserole is to cook your fillings beforehand. We start by cooking the sausage, then set it aside before sautéeing the mushrooms and onions in the rendered sausage fat—this fat and and the fond left behind in the skillet from the sausage imbue the mushrooms and onions with porky, salty flavor. The other aromatics and vegetables, including sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, and fresh spinach, are added after the mushrooms and onions. Sautéing the sausage and vegetables not only makes them tender and helps them develop a robust flavor, but cooking the fillings drives off excess moisture, ensuring a creamy— not watery—casserole.
2. Load up on the dairy. It can be challenging to ensure baked eggs in a large casserole dish are evenly cooked from edge to edge. The eggs can easily overcook and turn rubbery. To ensure the eggs remain tender once baked, we whisked a hearty amount of half-and-half (or whole milk, if you prefer) and sour cream into the egg mixture until fully combined. The added fat from the dairy results in a creamier custard-like filling.
3. Make it easier by building it right in the casserole dish. We wanted to make this casserole as easy as possible to prepare without sacrificing flavor. That’s why we don’t skip sautéing the add-ins as described above—the time savings are just not worth it. But one shortcut we do encourage is skipping the mixing bowl and simply combining all the casserole ingredients directly in the baking dish so there's one less bowl to clean up.
4. Customize it. This egg casserole is easily adaptable, so feel free to try out your favorite add-ins or swaps. You can omit the pork sausage entirely or swap it for turkey or veggie sausage. Any cheese that shreds and melts easily, such as Gruyère or Monterey Jack, will also work well here. Kale can be swapped in for the spinach and tomatoes can be added as well (just be sure to cook these ingredients first to remove excess moisture, just like you would with the spinach). To make it heartier, fold in some roasted potatoes, sweet potatoes, or root vegetables. (Leftover cooked vegetables work well too.) Get creative and remember that beyond breakfast this savory egg dish also makes a wonderful lunch or dinner.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F (175℃). Lightly grease a 9- x 13-inch baking dish with oil; set aside. If using sausage, in a 12-inch skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high until shimmering. Add sausage and using a wooden spoon, break it into large clumps. Continue to cook without moving until browned on bottom, about 4 minutes. Use wooden spoon to break up meat into smaller pieces and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until sausage is just cooked through, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer sausage to a paper towel–lined plate. Reserve 2 tablespoons rendered fat in skillet to cook mushrooms.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyHeat rendered fat in skillet (or if omitting sausage, heat 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch skillet) over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms, stir to coat in oil, and spread in an even layer. Cook without moving until bottoms of mushrooms are browned, about 4 minutes. Reduce heat to medium. Add onion, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1 tablespoon oil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions soften and mushrooms are browned all over, about 8 minutes.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyAdd sundried tomatoes and garlic; cook, stirring often, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add spinach in 2 additions, stirring often and letting spinach completely wilt before adding more. Transfer vegetable mixture, and sausage (if using), to prepared baking dish. Stir in cheese until combined, and spread mixture in an even layer.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyIn a large bowl, whisk eggs until no streaks remain. Whisk in sour cream in 3 additions until no lumps remain. Whisk in half-and-half, mustard, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt until combined. Pour egg mixture over mushroom mixture in baking dish; gently stir until egg mixture is evenly distributed.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyBake, uncovered, until cooked through, puffed and set, about 35 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes. Slice and serve.
Serious Eats / Fred HardySpecial Equipment9- x- 13-inch baking dish, 12-inch skillet
Make-Ahead and StorageTo prepare the recipe ahead, cook as directed through Step 3. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. Let the casserole sit at room temperature while the oven preheats; remove plastic wrap, stir to thoroughly recombine, and proceed with Step 4 as directed.
The casserole can be baked ahead, cooled to room temperature and refrigerated, covered, for up to 2 days. It can also be frozen for up to 2 months. To reheat, bring to room temperature before heating, covered with aluminum foil, in a 350°F (175℃) oven until warmed through.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmIt’s true, we’ve put Yeti products through the wringer over the years. The brand’s lineup has proven itself every time, be it a soft cooler surviving a fall out the back of a truck or an insulated tumbler maintaining cold temperatures over a 16-hour period. Through our rigorous tests, quite a few Yeti products have emerged as tried-and-true favorites, and some of them are on sale right now for Prime Big Deal Days. Yesterday and today, Yeti has a special October Prime Day discount running on select items and colorways. On some items, you can even take an extra 10% off. Now's the time to grab our editor-favorite tumbler, travel mug, and more.
The Best Amazon Yeti Deals A Great Travel Tumbler: Rambler Mug with Straw Lid * A Large Water Bottle: Rambler Insulated 46-Ounce Chug Water Bottle * An Editor-Loved Mug: Yeti Rambler 14-Ounce Stackable Mug * A Great Wine Tumbler: Rambler Wine Tumbler * An All-Around Great Tumbler: Yeti Rambler Vacuum Insulated Tumbler * An Insulated Beverage Bucket: Yeti Beverage/Ice Bucket * A Rugged Wine Chiller: Rambler Wine Chiller * An Excellent Cocktail Shaker:* Yeti Rambler Cocktail Shaker
Yeti Rambler Mug with Straw LidAmazonDuring our tests of insulated tumblers, Yeti came out as one of our favorites thanks to its variable sizes, smooth sipping action, and nearly leakproof lid. We also love that there are so many fun colors to choose from. The discounted colorways include: Charcoal, Mug Power Pink, Seafoam, King Crab Orange, and Reef Blue.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmYeti Rambler 46-Ounce Insulated Water BottleAmazonWe thought this water bottle was a bit too big for everyday use during our tests, but we still like it for carrying water in a backpack during hikes or longer trips. The discounted colorways include: Charcoal, King Crab Orange, Power Pink, and Reef Blue. The 18-ounce bottle in Power Pink is also on sale.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyYeti Rambler 14-Ounce Stackable MugAmazonSenior commerce editor Phoebe Sklansky swears by her Rambler stackable mug (in Seafoam, to be exact). She loves that both the mug and its lid are dishwasher-safe. She bought hers last Prime Day, so here’s your own chance to grab these colorways on sale: Cosmic Lilac and Seafoam.
Yeti Rambler Wine TumblerAmazonDuring our tests, this wine tumbler kept liquid ice-cold for longer than any other. It also comes with Yeti’s leak-fighting Magslider lid to keep your beverage from sloshing out.
Serious Eats / Eric KingYeti Rambler Vacuum Insulated TumblerAmazonA classic Yeti silhouette and commerce writer An Uong's favorite Yeti product, this Rambler tumbler without a handle keeps contents hot or cold for hours and fits neatly into any car cup holder. It's on sale in Charcoal, Cosmic Lilac, King Crab Orange, and Reef Blue.
Yeti Beverage/Ice BucketAmazonFor backyard cookouts or campground hangouts, the Yeti beverage and ice bucket can hold up to six longneck bottles of beer or three bottles of wine, in addition to ice. The stainless steel construction offers the same vacuum insulation as other Yeti products to keep your beverages chilled. During October Prime Day, this bucket will be on sale in Cosmic Lilac, King Crab Orange, and Power Pink.
Rambler Wine ChillerYetiIf you're a wine expert who enjoys the outdoors, we recommend the Yeti Rambler wine chiller. It fits most wine bottles and has a stainless steel vacuum insulated design that keeps your wine bottled adequately chilled. The bottom also has a silicone landing pad so you won't have to worry about any clanging around. The Cosmic Lilac colorway is part of the sale event.
Yeti Rambler Cocktail ShakerAmazonThis cocktail shaker is super insulated—a boon for those who hate feeling their hands turn frosty as they shake drinks. When we tested it, we liked it so much we named it a winner.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmFAQsWhen is October Prime Big Deal Days happening?This year, the October Prime Big Deal Days event is taking place on Tuesday, October 8 and Wednesday, October 9 (that’s today!) .
How long will Yeti have deals for October Prime Big Deal Days?While Yeti doesn’t often have sales, the brand currently has up to 30% off some of our favorites if you bundle, or 20% off select items. October Prime Day ends on Wednesday, October 8, but we’ll keep this Yeti story updated throughout the sale event for any changes.
Where can I find the best deals during October Prime Big Deal Days?We have a roundup of the best kitchen deals on all our favorite kitchen gear right here. We will update it throughout the Prime Day-level sale.
Do I have to be a Prime member to get deals on October Prime Big Deal Days?While only Amazon Prime members can access the Prime-exclusive deals during the shopping event, there will be plenty of other sales that you can grab. If you don’t have Prime yet, you can sign up for a free 30-day trial to access the members-only deals.
Why We’re the Experts An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * She has tested citrus juicers, vegetable peelers, and more for Serious Eats for nearly two years. * An has developed recipes for Bon Appetit, Taste*, and other food publications.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonAs professional cooks and kitchen equipment testers, we’re often asked about the best tool or appliance we’ve ever tested. Most Serious Eats staffers will tell you the same thing: We love the Vitamix 5200 blender. This professional-level blender is an incredible buy, but it’s rarely on sale. That’s why we’ve got our eyes on this October’s Prime Day deal: The 5200 is now $300—a rare $250 off from its normal price.
AmazonWhy Is the Vitamix 5200 Professional-Grade Blender So Good?We’ve named the Vitamix 5200 the best blender (Period. Exclamation point!) for 10 years and running. You won’t find any complex preprograms, and that’s a good thing: It’s incredibly easy to use right out of the box. Equally important is its variable speed settings—10, plus a super-powered “high.” Our tests have consistently shown that starting to blend at a low speed and working your way up to high is the key to a creamy, emulsified mixture. That’s a key reason we named it the best blender for smoothies.
We also love its tall, tapered jar that excels at creating vortexes. Short, square jars fail to pull ingredients down and cycle them through the blades. Like all Vitamix blenders, the 5200’s blunt blades are made for longevity. Sharp blades that slice through ingredients get dull within a matter of weeks, so blunt blades are a better design: They bludgeon through frozen fruit and tough nuts.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWhat Can You Make In the Vitamix 5200 Blender?Name any recipe that requires a blender: The 5200 can handle it. In our most recent test of this model, we made almond milk, kale smoothies, frozen margaritas, mayonnaise, and a puréed soup. Most blenders struggled in at least one category, but the 5200 was an outstanding all-around workhorse. The tall profile was especially helpful in making a properly emulsified mayonnaise and the variable speeds ensured velvety smooth blending.
FAQsIs the Vitamix 5200 Blender worth it?Unequivocally. In fact, if we were stranded on a deserted island (with electricity) and could only bring one blender, it’d be this. Jokes aside, if you’re looking for a versatile, powerful blender that’ll do all of the tasks and last for years, it’s the 5200.
How much does the Vitamix 5200 cost?The 5200 typically retails for about $550. That’s a lot more than you’ll pay for a budget blender, but we think it’s worth the price. That’s why the Prime Big Deal Days discount—$250 off!—is such a, well, big deal.
Why We’re the Experts Rochelle Bilow is a commerce editor at Serious Eats. She’s a culinary school graduate, former professional cook, and former editor at Bon Appétit and Cooking Light*. * We at Serious Eats rigorously test our product recommendations and regularly revisit reviews to ensure our picks stand the test of time. * We have recommended the Vitamix 5200 blender for 10 years—and many Serious Eats staffers use it at home.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonIf you haven’t heard, October Prime Day is finally here. After testing hundreds of kitchen tools, appliances, and gadgets all year, we couldn’t be more thrilled to see so many sales on our favorite equipment. There are millions of deals right now, so we sorted through pages (and pages and pages) to handpick the ones we’re thinking of grabbing for ourselves.
In true nerdy Serious Eats fashion, our staff shared its very opinionated recommendations on 12 deals worth scooping up, including a beginner-friendly Breville espresso machine, this longtime favorite Le Creuset Dutch oven, this set of tried-and-true All-Clad stainless steel skillets, and much more for up to 67% off.
Editor-Recommended October Prime Day Deals, at a Glance: A Beginner-Friendly Espresso Machine: Breville the Barista Express Impress * An Easy-to-Use Instant Pot: Instant Pot Pro 10-in-1 Pressure Cooker * The Best Stainless Steel Pans: All-Clad Stainless Steel Frying Pans, Set of 2 * The Best Air Fryer Toaster Oven: Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer Pro * The Best Dutch Oven: Le Creuset Signature Enameled Dutch Oven * Leakproof Food Storage Containers: Rubbermaid Brilliance Food Storage Containers * The Best Grill Basket: OXO Obsidian Outdoor Carbon Steel 12-Inch Grilling Basket * A Full-Featured Hand Mixer: Breville the Handy Mix Scraper * A Customizable Rice Cooker: Cuckoo Micom Rice Cooker & Warmer * A Great Nonstick Skillet: All-Clad 10-Inch Nonstick Skillet * The Best Budget-Friendly Chef’s Knife: Mercer Culinary 8-Inch Chef’s Knife * An Efficient Electric Grill and Smoker:* Ninja Woodfire Pro XL Outdoor Grill & Smoker
Breville the Barista Express ImpressAmazonIf I didn't already have this espresso machine, I'd be scooping it up while it's on sale. It couldn't be easier to use, with a built-in grinder and tamper. There's even a little smiley face that illuminates when the level of grounds is correct! I honestly think it's harder to make bad coffee with this Breville machine than it is to make good espresso. Everyone I've recommended this model to loves it for that reason. — Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, associate editorial director
Instant Pot Pro 10-in-1 Pressure CookerAmazonI was an Instant Pot skeptic for a while, and the Instant Pot Duo Plus I received for Christmas five years back collected dust for longer than I’d like to admit. But after an incident involving a friend and some dried beans (you can read about it here), I’ve become a convert. The Instant Pot has come in clutch. It’s helped me correct oopsie-daisies like forgetting to soak beans and makes my spur-of-the-moment dinner hankerings come to life (hello, braised beef poutine!). Now that our winner is on sale for Prime Day, I think I’ll upgrade. — Grace Kelly, commerce editor
All-Clad Stainless Steel Frying Pans, Set of 2AmazonMy stainless steel frying pans are my favorite cookware pieces. They can sear a golden brown slab of tofu just as easily as they can cook and release a delicate omelet as if they were nonstick. If I didn’t already have a set of 10- and 12-inch pans, I would definitely scoop up this duo from All-Clad that’s on sale for October Prime Day. We’ve recommended All-Clad stainless steel for years! — An Uong, commerce writer
Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer ProAmazonI have a toaster oven. I have an air fryer. Why not get the best of both in one air fryer toaster oven? I'm always looking for ways to maximize my counter space and this Breville Smart Oven air fryer pro might just be the answer. I've been eyeing it ever since it out-fried the competition in our tests by churning out the crispiest fries and crunchiest chicken wings. Now that it's $100 off for October Prime Day, I might just have to commit. — An
Le Creuset Signature Enameled Dutch OvenAmazonLe Creuset is pricey, but it really is timeless. As evidence of that, my mom still has Le Creuset cookware she bought in France when she was in her 20s, and it's in great condition. I have one tiny piece of the brand’s cookware, but this might be the year I finally treat myself to a big Dutch oven for making stews, no-knead bread, soups, braises, and more. — Megan O. Steintrager, associate editorial director
Rubbermaid Brilliance Food Storage ContainersAmazonI recently tossed out all my mismatched food storage containers and invested in a set of Rubbermaid Brilliance food storage containers after seeing that they took the winning spot in our review. But we all know that you can never have too many containers! A couple of mine have already gone missing, so I'm going to take advantage of the Prime Day sales and restock. — Rochelle Bilow, commerce editor
OXO Obsidian Outdoor Carbon Steel 12-Inch Grilling BasketAmazonDid I buy this carbon steel grill basket roughly two minutes after seeing it in this roundup of early Prime Day deals? Did I make my boyfriend return the other inferior grill basket he had just purchased elsewhere? Have we used it every evening since? Do I deeply love the fact that it has a removable handle? Yes, you betcha, absolutely, and heck yes! — Rochelle
Breville the Handy Mix ScraperAmazonI bought a very cheap hand mixer many years ago off of Facebook Marketplace, so it's time for a new one. I'll absolutely be going with our top pick from Breville, which is $30 off right now! As we said in our review, it's "the Cadillac of hand mixers" and has a ton of features, including a storage case, a built-in timer, and a light that illuminates the mixing bowl. — Riddley
Cuckoo Micom Rice Cooker & WarmerAmazonI use my rice cooker at least three times a week. This October Prime Day, I want to upgrade to one of our longtime favorite rice cookers from Cuckoo. It has a range of customization options, including temperature adjustability. Plus, it's nice-looking and pretty small (a boon for my already-packed cabinets)! — Riddley
All-Clad 10-Inch Nonstick SkilletAmazonI need a new nonstick skillet. My husband unknowingly got scratches all over my last one, and while All-Clad makes my favorite nonstick skillet, it can be a bit pricey. I'm planning on picking one up at a reduced price on Prime Day. — Leah Colins, senior culinary editor
Mercer Culinary 8-Inch Chef’s KnifeAmazonIt's been a minute since I treated myself to a good knife—I only have one chef's knife that gets more than enough love, so it wouldn't hurt to pick up another. There's nothing more satisfying than dicing onions or slicing into perfectly cooked chicken breast with a high-quality, sharp knife, and I'm excited to finally try this one from Mercer. I'm sure it won't disappoint! — Yasmine Maggio, associate editor
For years now, I’ve been on the hunt for a portable coffee maker to bring camping. The AeroPress has been our favorite single-serve coffee brewer for years, so I might have to grab the XL coffee press while it’s on sale this October Prime Day. That way, there’s enough coffee to share with everyone on the campsite. — An
Ninja Woodfire Pro XL Outdoor Grill & SmokerAmazonI'll be honest, Ninja products can be hit or miss (or sometimes they occupy a space I like to call single-use wonders). But sometimes, a new gadget captures my attention and doesn't let it go, especially if it's related to grilling. I currently live in an apartment with a small outdoor space, so the prospect of a smoker previously seemed utterly ridiculous. Enter the Ninja Woodfire Outdoor Grill & Smoker. It's small, electric, and looks like something "allowed" in my tiny backyard. Adding it my wish list right now. — Kelli Solomon, senior social media editor
FAQsWhen is October Prime Big Deal Days happening?October Prime Big Deal Days is happening on Tuesday, October 8 and Wednesday, October 9 (that’s today!.
Where can I find the best deals during October Prime Big Deal Days?We have a roundup of the best kitchen deals on all our favorite kitchen gear right here. We will update it throughout the Prime Day-level sale.
How long will deals last for October Prime Big Deal Days?October Prime Day ends on Wednesday, October 9, but we’ll keep this story updated throughout the sale event for any changes.
Do I have to be a Prime member to get deals on October Prime Big Deal Days?While only Amazon Prime members can access the Prime-exclusive deals during the shopping event, there will be plenty of other sales that you can grab. If you don’t have Prime yet, you can sign up for a free 30-day trial to access the members-only deals.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * We test thousands of kitchen products every year and diligently keep an eye on our favorites for sales.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyLe Creuset has been at the top of our recommendation lists for years. The brand’s time-tested cookware and bakeware have consistently seared, baked, braised, and roasted a notch above the competition. While we think Le Creuset is always worth the investment, it’s a thrill to catch discounts on our favorite items that have performed well in tests. During Amazon’s Prime Big Deal Days, Le Creuset is discounting its Dutch oven, cast iron skillet, braiser, and more cookware pieces that are worth grabbing ahead of peak roasting and stewing season, starting at just $25.
The Best Amazon Le Creuset Deals, at a Glance: The Best Dutch Oven: Le Creuset 5.5-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Round Dutch Oven * The Best Braiser: Le Creuset 3.5-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Signature Braiser * A Beautiful Baking Dish Set: Le Creuset Stoneware Heritage Set * The Best Enameled Cast Iron Skillet: Le Creuset 9-Inch Cast Iron Handle Skillet * A Great Bread Baker: Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Bread Oven * A Large-Capacity Cast Iron Pot: Le Creuset 7.5-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Chef's Oven with Glass Lid * A Festive Fall Cocotte: Le Creuset Stoneware 12-Ounce Pumpkin Petite Cocotte * A Fast Stovetop Kettle: Le Creuset Enamel On Steel Demi Tea Kettle * The Sweetest Mini Cocottes: Le Creuset 8-Ounce Mini Round Cocotte with Flower Lid * A Versatile Cassadou:* Le Creuset 3.75-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Signature Cassadou
Le Creuset 5.5-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Round Dutch OvenAmazonNo, we’ll never get tired of recommending the Le Creuset Dutch oven. It’s been our top Dutch oven pick for years thanks to its impeccably even heating and proven durability. The classic 5.5-quart Dutch oven is on rare sale for $100 off.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyLe Creuset 3.5-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Signature BraiserAmazonThis classic braiser shallow-fried the competition in our tests with its flared sides and wide bottom. It also has roomy handles that make it comfortable to carry from stovetop to oven to dinner table. During our tests, it was able to evenly sear meatballs across its entire surface. The Flame colorway is currently on sale for 15% off.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayLe Creuset Stoneware Heritage SetAmazonWhile the Le Creuset casserole dish was not our top pick, who can resist a baking dish set on sale? We still thought it was beautiful and it still offers the even heat retention that Le Creuset is known for, so this set of three baking dishes is a deal at 31% off.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyLe Creuset 9-Inch Cast Iron Handle SkilletAmazonCapable of reaching high, even temperatures quickly, the Le Creuset cast iron skillet is $20 off and a favorite of several Serious Eats editors. During our tests, it seared steak beautifully and cooked up perfect over-easy eggs.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayLe Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Bread OvenAmazonThe Le Creuset bread oven is a unitasker that does its one task very well. In our review, we found it easier to load and unload loaves using this bread oven than in a traditional Dutch oven. It also browned crusts faster.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianLe Creuset 7.5-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Chef's Oven with Glass Lid AmazonDesigned for handling larger batches of food, this 7.5-quart cast iron oven offers the same excellent heat retention and distribution that Le Creuset is known for but in a vessel with wide, sloped sides that allow for smooth stirring. It also has a glass lid so you can easily track the progress of your foods inside. Right now, it’s 28% off.
Le Creuset Stoneware 12-Ounce Pumpkin Petite CocotteAmazonAs we enter peak fall season, it’s only fair to say that pumpkin-shaped cookware deserves a spot in any festive kitchen. Associate editorial director Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm confesses that she “wants one of these HORRIBLY” and we don’t blame her.
Le Creuset Enamel On Steel Demi Tea KettleAmazonA smaller version of one of our favorite stovetop kettles, this demi kettle from Le Creuset boils water at lightning speed thanks to its carbon steel construction. Right now, it’s on sale for less than $70
Serious Eats / Eric KingLe Creuset 8-Ounce Mini Round Cocotte with Flower LidAmazonOur commerce writer (that’s me, An!) has two of these and they are some of her favorite cookware pieces. These mini cocottes are essentially ramekins with handles and lids and add a touch of whimsy to your single-serve oatmeal, chocolate cakes, and bread puddings.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubLe Creuset 3.75-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Signature CassadouAmazonHalf-pan and half-pot, this Le Creuset cassadou is similar to a braiser or Dutch oven, but it has a long handle on one side and a looped handle on the other for easy maneuvering around the kitchen. Similar to a sauté pan, the cassadou offers a wide bottom and shorter sides for searing a larger amount of food without trapping too much steam.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * She’s been testing equipment for Serious Eats for nearly two years. * An has a burgeoning Le Creuset collection and is particularly in love with her little ceramic cocottes with flower lids.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonPrime Big Deal Days may be over, but there are still some great discounts available. This includes all things kitchen, which is especially pertinent to us and likely you, if you’re reading this.
We test kitchen gear all year, which makes us extremely qualified to find the best products that also happen to be on sale. Below, you’ll find 49 of our favorite October Prime Day deals you can still get, including an easy-to-use Breville espresso machine, an editor-loved toaster oven air fryer, and an inexpensive Dutch oven.
The Best Espresso Machine for Beginners: Breville Barista Express Impress Espresso MachineAmazonThis is an outstanding espresso machine. With a built-in grinder, tamper, and smiley face that illuminates when the grounds level is correct, it’s ridiculously easy to use. It’s harder to make bad espresso with this model than it is to make really, truly good coffee. Right now, it’s $200 off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonThe Best Air Fryer Toaster Oven: Breville the Smart Oven Air Fryer ProAmazonIf you want a do-it-all toaster oven (toast, air-fry, bake, roast, broil!), this Breville model is the one to get. Its digital control panel and knobs make this oven easy to use, too. It's a Serious Eats editor-favorite, too, with many preferring it over their standard ovens. Right now, it's 25% off. This Breville oven (which lacks air-frying capabilities) is also on sale.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonThe Best Kitchen Scale: OXO Stainless Steel Food Scale with Pull-Out DisplayAmazonWe rarely see this kitchen scale go on sale—and it's absolutely worth scooping up before holiday baking season. It's been our top pick for many years due to its accuracy, quick response time, easy conversions, and pull-out screen that's large and bright.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerThe Best Sous Vide Machine: Breville Joule TurboSerious Eats / AmazonWe rarely see our favorite sous vide machine on sale. The Breville Joule Turbo heats water quickly and quietly and keeps it at the same temperature no matter how long you're sous vide-ing for. Its magnetic base even keeps the Joule Turbo upright in compatible pots (like a Dutch oven). We also really love its app, which is packed with helpful recipes, tips, and videos.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmA Deeply Discounted Vitamix: Vitamix A3300 Ascent BlenderAmazonWith a touchscreen, LED display, a built-in timer, and container recognition, this is one snazzy blender. It works well, too, and is a good example of why we love Vitamix blenders: no matter which one you get, it's going to be wicked powerful.
Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesOne of the Best Rice Cookers: Cuckoo Rice Cooker and WarmerAmazonThis is one of our longtime favorite rice cookers. If you want customization, it has it in spades. You can even tweak the cooking temperature! The Cuckoo looks pretty sleek, too. (While not our winner, this Zojirushi rice cooker is on sale and still very good.)
Serious Eats / Alexander HuangAnother Excellent Breville Espresso Machine (with a Touchscreen!): Breville the Barista Touch Espresso MachineAmazonWe haven’t tried this specific model, but we’re huge fans of Breville’s espresso machines in general. This one has a built-in grinder and a touchscreen that’ll walk you through making all sorts of espresso drinks. It bears a very strong resemblance to our favorite touchscreen espresso machine from Breville, the Barista Touch Impress (which is also 20% off!).
A Great, Budget-Friendly Wok: Joyce Chen Carbon Steel WokAmazonIn our tests, this wok has a smooth surface that nothing stuck to—not even fried eggs. We liked its wooden main and helper handles, both of which stayed fairly cool. Right now, it's 23% off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonThe Best Budget Blender: Breville The Fresh & Furious BlenderAmazonThis budget blender not only performs impressively, but it's a looker, too. We even liked some of its presets (like green smoothie and ice crush). For October Prime Day, all of its colors are on sale.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyA Compact, Still Powerful Blender: Vitamix Explorian BlenderAmazonThis is another Vitamix deal worth considering. The Explorian has 10 speeds and an interface that strongly resembles the 5200. Its smaller capacity makes it a good starter blender. This on-sale model is certified refurbished.
Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesThe Best Stand Mixers for Casual Bakers: KitchenAid Artisan Tilt-Head Stand MixerAmazonThis stand mixer is strong enough to whip, knead, mix, and beat most any baking recipe—and its tilt-head makes it easy to scrape down the mixer's bowl. For October Prime Day, it's $100 less. Our favorite bowl-lift stand mixer (also from KitchenAid!) is on rare sale, too.
Serious Etas / Irvin LinOne of Our Favorite Air Fryers: Ninja Air FryerAmazonThis air fryer has a spacious basket that, in our tests, resulted in super crispy fries and wings. Its relatively small footprint makes it a good fit for a lot of households and we thought its control panel was labeled well and easy to use.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe Best Pepper Mill: Peugeot Paris Pepper MillAmazonThis is our very favorite pepper mill. It’s even owned and adored by a few Serious Eats editors. The Peugeot has simple-to-adjust settings and a comfortable grip, and looks really sleek. In our tests, it showed impressive grind accuracy. It's currently nearly 50% off.
Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinA Super Powerful Sous Vide Machine: Anova Culinary Precision Cooker ProAmazonIf you’re looking for a ridiculously powerful and accurate sous vide machine that can be controlled via its onboard display and a compatible app, this discounted Anova model is the one to get. It aced our tests and we also appreciated how quiet it was when running (just a gentle hum!). It’s 40% off at the moment.
Serious Etas / Russell KilgoreA Beast of a Blender from Breville: Breville Super Q BlenderAmazonWhen we tested blenders, we were honestly amazed by how quiet this one was. It has five presets, 12 variable speeds, and a sleek, intuitive digital control panel. Right now, you save 36% on select color models.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyThe Best Vacuum Sealer: Anova Precision Culinary Vacuum Sealer ProAmazonFor furthering your sous vide journey, snag a vacuum sealer. This one has built-in bag storage and a bag cutter, and no refractory period (the time between sealings). During our tests, its seals held up to long sous vide and freezer times.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonA Portable Pizza Oven: Ninja Woodfire 8-in-1 Outdoor OvenAmazon$300 for an outdoor pizza oven?! We were stunned to see this winning oven had dropped $100 in price, and we're willing to bet this deal won't last long. We think this is the best pizza oven for beginners because the steady temps make it harder to burn pies.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonA Great, Affordable Chef’s Knife: Mercer Culinary Genesis Chef’s KnifeAmazonThe Mercery Culinary chef’s knife is a longtime recommendation of ours. It has a grippy handle and is a great starter blade. In fact, it’s commonly used in culinary schools.
Serious Eats/Dera BurresonThe Best Flat-Top Grill for Smash Burgers And More: Weber 36-Inch Gas GriddleWeberWe braved the summer heat and humidity to test flat-top grills and were rewarded for our effort by finding this fantastic griddle from Weber. It's fast to heat, spacious, and gets ripping hot—perfect for making ultra-thin smash burgers. Right now it's $100 off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreA Really Great Bread Machine: Zojirushi Home Bakery Mini BreadmakerAmazonThis bread machine doesn’t take up a lot of space, but still makes great, well-proofed loaves with tender crumbs. The Zojirushi’s display is easy to navigate, too. Right now it’s about $50 off.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyA Hybrid Piece of Cookware: HexClad Hybrid Nonstick Frying PanAmazonWe actually like HexClad cookware. It’s neither nonstick nor stainless steel, but successfully combines the qualities of both. If you want to try it for yourself, this 8-inch pan is on sale for October Prime Day.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Best Instant Pot: Instant Pot Pro Pressure CookerAmazonThis has been our top-recommended Instant Pot for years, and for good reason. Not only does it pressure cook impeccably, but it’s super easy to use. The handles on its cooking pot prevent the pot from swirling around when you stir and its pressure release switch is much easier to use than a valve you have to prod with a spoon.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinThe Best Immersion Blender: All-Clad Stainless Steel Immersion BlenderAmazonOur longtime favorite immersion blender is a whopping $50 off at the moment. It’s impressively strong and fast, pureeing soup in the blink of an eye. Its head is easy to twist on and off, too, for easy cleaning and storing.
A Temperature-Controlled Mug for Coffee Lovers: Ember Temperature Control Smart MugAmazonThis Ember mug keeps coffee a set temperature between 120 and 145ºF for hours so you can sip coffee slowly without it getting cold. It’s the coffee mug for people who despise hot coffee gone cold! You can now snag it for more than 30% off.
Serious Eats / Eric BrockobA Very Fancy Rice Cooker: KitchenAid Grain and Rice CookerAmazonThis rice cooker can cook any grain and even beans! So it's more multicooker. It has a digital control panel that's easy to navigate and it's nearly 30% off for October Prime Day.
Serious Eats / Alexander HuangA Great Pair of Pot Holders: KitchenAid Ribbed Soft Silicone Pot HolderAmazonEveryone needs a good pair of pot holders. This set from KitchenAid is impressively grippy and excellent for grabbing onto skillet handles and Dutch oven knobs. Right now, they're nearly 50% off (be sure to clip the coupon!).
Serious Eats / Eric BrockobA Great Soda Maker: SodaStream AquaFizz Sparkling Water MakerWalmartThis soda maker comes with two glass bottles and a CO2 cartridge. We liked its cradle bottle-loading system, since we always knew the bottle was secure.
Serious Eats / Alexander HuangThe Best Budget Deep Fryer: Chefman Deep FryerAmazonThis is a no-frills deep fryer that does its job really well—especially given its reasonable price. It heats up quickly and has a large capacity for crispy, crunchy food.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreOur Budget Waffle Maker Pick: Krups 4-Slice Belgian Waffle MakerAmazonThis is our longtime favorite (budget!) waffle maker. It makes tender, fluffy waffles that are still pleasingly floppy. We like that it churns out four at a time, too.
Serious Eats / Eric BrockobA Powerful Air Fryer That Won't Hog All Your Counter Space: CosoriLite 2.1-Quart Mini Air FryerAmazonAir fryers typically take up a lot of counter space (not the most demure of appliances!). But this 2.1-quart superhero from Cosori plays nicely with the rest of your kitchen gear. It has four straight-forward settings, and is plenty big for a batch of chicken nuggets or a serving of salmon.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyThe Best Budget Flatware Set We've Tried: Lenox Portola 65-Piece Flatware SetAmazonThis flatware set from Lenox includes a generous 65 pieces—much more than most other sets we've tested. The forks, knives, and spoons are well balanced from handle to tip, and they're pleasantly heavy. If you need extra flatware for holiday entertaining, now is a good time to buy: This set is almost 50% off.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe Best $20 Cast Iron Skillet You'll Ever Buy: Lodge 10.25 Inch Cast Iron Pre-Seasoned SkilletAmazonWe've been testing cast iron skillets for years, and we've gotta tell you: You really won't find a better combination of performance and value than this old standby from Lodge. It comes pre-seasoned, so you can use it straight outta the box. It's already over a hundred dollars less than many other cast iron pans, and right now it's 42% off.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyA Hot Water Dispenser for Tea, Ramen, and More: Zojirushi Panorama Window Micom Water Boiler and WarmerAmazonHot water dispensers keep boiling water at your desired temperature for hours—no small feat. Our winner from Zojirushi also had a bunch of useful features, like multiple timer options and an alarm to let you know water's up. It's currently steeply discounted at 31% off.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyPretty Cloth Napkins That Never Wrinkle: Ruvanti Cloth NapkinsAmazonA bit of polyester is the secret to keeping these cotton napkins wrinkle-free. They come in loads of colors, and each set contains 12 napkins. These napkins earned the title of Best Budget Napkins in our recent review, and now they're on sale for about 40% off!
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowA Fantastic Compressor-Style Ice Cream Machine: Whynter Ice Cream Maker MachineAmazonIf you're really into making ice cream, a compressor-style machine makes it incredibly easy to churn a pint on a whim. This impressive offering from Whynter lets you do just that; in our tests, it mixed up ice cream that honestly tasted better than anything you can buy at the store. And it's currently an impressive 31% off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonA Grill Press for Crispy Bacon: Bellemain Cast Iron Grill PressAmazonYou don't have to be a diner cook to appreciate a hefty grill press. When we reviewed them, we especially liked this one from Bellemain because it covers a large surface area and has a tall handle that kept our hands safe. It's awesome for bacon and burgers.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Best Splurge Water Filter Pitcher: LARQ 8-Cup Water Filter PitcherAmazonThis durable water filter pitcher is slim enough to tuck in the fridge, and comes with filters that are NSF- and ANSI-certified to reduce lead, chlorine, and PFAs. It's currently 20% off for October Prime Day.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe Best Large Cooler: Orca 58-Quart CoolerAmazonThis massive cooler will fit everything—and keep it ice cold. In our tests, it kept ice frozen for over 60 hours and was super easy to drain. Right now it's $40 off.
Serious Eats / Henry WortockAn Expandable (!) Kitchen Drawer Organizer: Pipishell Bamboo Expandable Drawer OrganizerAmazonMost kitchen drawer organizers are "good enough," but this one was so outstanding, it won the top spot in our review. It's waterproof, expandable, and has two slots long enough for serving utensils. It's an impressive 36% off right now.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziAn Outstandingly Discounted Copper Cookware Set: Viking 4-Ply 9-Piece Copper Cookware SetAmazonCopper cookware is fast, responsive, revered in professional kitchens, and... not cheap. So the fact that one of our winning copper cookware sets is almost $400 off right now is a big, big deal. We named it the best set for everyday use because it's very easy to clean.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe Best Baking Pan for Brownies and Blondies: Nordic Ware 8 x 8 Square Cake PanAmazonTo prove we take testing very seriously, we made about a billion (give or take a few) batches of blondies and cake when we reviewed cake pans. The heavy gauge metal, rolled edges, and even heat distribution earned this pan the top spot. Knock a couple dollars off the price for Prime Day and stock up on more than one.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinA Comfy Mat for Food Prep and Cleanup: Gorilla Grip Anti Fatigue Cushioned Comfort MatAmazonAnti-fatigue mats are more than just kitchen decor. The best can reduce pain and discomfort, and improve balance. This mat aced our tests and comes in plenty of colors that are on sale now, including black, brown, and charcoal.
Food & Wine / Fred HardyA Slow Cooker for Cozy Stews And More: GreenPan Elite 8-in-1 Programmable 6 QT Electric Slow CookerAmazonThis slow cooker heated up quickly and produced creamy, tender beans and luscious pulled pork. We liked that the exterior stayed cool throughout the duration of cooking—something that can't be said of most slow cookers. If you're into cozy, low-effort stews and braises, we think this a worthy investment, especially now that it's 24% off.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinA Pro-Kitchen Approved Nonstick Skillet: Tramontina 10-Inch Professional Aluminum Nonstick Restaurant Fry PanAmazonWe've said it before and we'll say it again: You shouldn't spend a lot on a nonstick skillet. This one is oven-safe up to 400˚F, and has a removable handle cover that keeps your paws safe. Snap it up for almost 50% off.
Serious Eats / Donna CurrieOur Favorite Dish Rack: KitchenAid Large Capacity Dish RackAmazonReplace that soggy towel with a sturdy dish rack that can hold a whole dinner's worth of dishes. Our winner from KitchenAid kept dishes neatly in place and was easy to clean. It's currently 20% off for Amazon Prime Big Deal Days.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziA Box Grater With Built-In Storage: KitchenAid Box GraterAmazonIsn't it annoying when you lift your box grater and an avalanche of shredded cheese explodes all over your cutting board? This clever design from KitchenAid gets rid of that headache: There's a catch bin that fits right underneath the grater. Even better, you can pop on the lid and store any extras in the fridge. It's on sale for $10 off.
A Shaved Ice Attachment for Your Stand Mixer: KitchenAid Shave Ice AttachmentAmazonBetcha didn't know your KitchenAid stand mixer could make shaved ice! This attachment is the most space-efficient way to have shaved ice any time of year, and it's currently on sale for 35% off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe Best Mop for Clean Kitchen Floors: O-Cedar EasyWring Microfiber Spin Mop & BucketAmazonThis mop from O-Cedar will change the way you clean your floors. It comes with a bucket that actually wrings out liquid from the mop head (a whopping 74% of the soaked-up water—we measured!)—no more soggy mops that slosh water everywhere. Now it's on sale for Amazon Prime Big Deal Days.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyA Stovetop Pressure Cooker That Brings the Heat: T-fal Clipso Stainless Steel Pressure CookerAmazonIf you're into canning or want to cook dinner STAT, a stovetop pressure cooker is a great kitchen gadget to consider. Stovetop pressure cookers reach higher pressures faster than electric multicookers and are easier (and safer) to use than you might think. And, right now, one of our winning offerings from T-Fal is a whopping 40% off.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayFAQsHow long is Prime Big Deal Days 2024?Amazon’s Prime Big Deal Days lasts for two days! It started October 8 and ended yesterday (October 9).
What is Prime Big Deal Days?You can think of Prime Big Deal Days like an October Prime Day. During these two days, Amazon slashed prices on millions of items in its deals hub, with new discounts dropping every five minutes.
Do you have to be a Prime member to shop Prime Big Deal Days? You do! As a Prime member, you’ll also score free shipping. You can sign up for a free 30-day trial here.
Why We’re the Experts* Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm is the associate commerce editorial director at Serious Eats. * She’s been with the site since 2021 and has been reviewing kitchen equipment professionally for more than six years. * Riddley’s tested thousands and thousands of products and is passionate about a good deal.
Serious EatsLate on the night of October 28, 2005, and early into the next morning, New York City’s 311 service hotline was flooded with calls reporting a strange odor wafting across Manhattan. Large swaths of the island smelled like maple syrup and nobody knew why.
Was it terrorism? A stunt from the Eggo people? A sneak-attack by sentient maple trees?
NYPD, NYFD, and NYC’s emergency management and environmental protection agencies launched an investigation that determined the smell was harmless, but it failed to identify a source. The odor disappeared, and life went on. Until it popped up again one day in March 2006. And again that November. And again a year after that. Then-hit TV show 30 Rock even made a joke about the mysterious smell.
It took almost four years of sporadic aromatic events to finally solve the mystery: The maple syrup smell came from a factory in New Jersey processing fenugreek. Often called by its Hindi name, methi, fenugreek’s seeds and leaves can be found in stews and spice mixes throughout most of the varied regional cuisines of India and Pakistan.
But even an experienced Indian chef has trouble describing exactly what methi tastes like on its own. "My advice is, don’t taste it. It’s bitter!" laughs Pawan Mahendro, owner and chef of Badmaash, which he opened in Los Angeles in 2013 with his two sons. Mahendro grew up in Punjab, in northern India, where methi seeds often go into pickles. "My grandmother would do a lot of pickling, and we would always play with the methi seeds. One time she said, ‘bite this.’ I chewed on some and they were so bitter I never wanted to taste them again!" he says. "That was my first memory of methi."
Fenugreek seeds.Since then, Mahendro’s spent 50 years in the restaurant business—in India, Canada, and the US—and changed his mind about methi. At one Toronto restaurant, he was in charge of making house-cured salmon for brunch and experimented with lots of different ingredients. One combination of lemon, dill, and methi was especially popular. "It turned out to be very flavorful," he remembers. "People started asking, ‘What is different about this?’ But nobody could pick out why."
Maple syrup, though? Kinda. "When I roast and powder methi, it has a sweetish kind of flavor but there’s a bitter ending to it," Mahendro says. "Maybe like a strong, dark caramel, yes."
The molecule responsible for both methi and the Manhattan Maple Whodunit is sotolon (sometimes spelled with an "e" at the end—"sotolone"), which is present in fenugreek in large quantities and pops up in all sorts of other unexpected places. "I’ve used it in banana, pumpkin, elderflower, strawberry, and peach flavors," says Kim Juelg, a principal flavorist for Givaudan, the world’s largest maker of flavorings and scents. After 25 years working her way up through the ranks of the company and training in tasting and chemistry, she’s now in charge of formulating savory, sweet, and beverage flavors for brands you’ve definitely heard of, but which she’s not allowed to name. (If you see "natural flavors" or "artificial flavors" on an ingredients list, there’s a good chance Givaudan made them.)
Juelg describes sotolon as a "sweet, brown" molecule that you’d likely find in chemical facsimiles of things like molasses, caramel, and, yes, maple syrup. Compared to other ingredients flavorists have at hand, sotolon is quite expensive, so it’s typically used in conjunction with other, more affordable chemicals. Your pumpkin spice beverages, and granola bars, and candies, and candles, are made with a mix of molecules that may include sotolon, too.
Sotolon is a lactone, which has a very specific definition related to molecular structure that’s way too complicated to talk about here. But for flavor purposes, lactones tend to be oily, and don’t dissolve well in water. That means their scents linger: When Juelg uses sotolon at work, it "sticks" to her skin and clothes much longer than, say, banana-flavored isoamyl acetate, which evaporates and washes away quite readily. "I have left work, gone to the grocery on my way home, and while in line have heard people say, ‘Do you smell pancakes?’" she remembers. "Even after showering, you’re gonna smell it for a few days."
J. Kenji Lopez-AltSotolon’s texture also makes it useful for the elusive component of flavor called mouthfeel. It "tastes" kind of thick, if that makes any sense. "The oiliness of lactones just lays there and sticks on your tongue," Juelg says. "We use them a lot for ‘fleshiness’ in strawberry or coffee. Stuff you’re trying to give a fuller mouthfeel without being sweet." Unlike molecules that evaporate quickly and you taste on the "front" of the palate, you taste these "mid-to-finish," she says.
Sotolon’s "heavy" stickiness and slow evaporation is how it was able to blow across the Hudson, but the reason so many people noticed the maple smell is that it’s especially potent. People can taste it at concentrations of .02 parts per million, which is 2000 times as potent as vanillin (as the name suggests, a major component of vanilla flavor), another "sweet, brown" molecule Juelg works with frequently.
With an important role in both curries and fake caramels and syrups, sotolon atomically bridges the divide between sweet and savory. And some of the other natural sources of the chemical do the same. You can find lots of sotolon in candy cap mushrooms, which chefs often turn into ice cream or caramels, as well as in the oxidized minerality of sherry and other barrel-aged wines and spirits, and in the toasty sweetness of cigar tobacco. Homebrewers sometimes add fenugreek to their beer to produce a subtle maple flavor without adding sugar. And there’s even a connection to funny-smelling pee: Sufferers of a rare genetic disorder called maple syrup urine disease can’t process certain amino acids properly, leading, through a series of chemical steps, to sotolon—and its distinctive odor—in their excretions. (The disease is typically diagnosed in infants whose parents smell, well, maple syrup urine, and it can be fatal but it's fairly easily treated by regulating amino acids in the diet.)
So the next time you’re wandering the streets and get an overwhelming whiff of maple syrup (assuming you’re not in Vermont in early spring), look for a spice factory or an Indian restaurant—no need to call the police.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikFeta is one of those cheeses that simply doesn't get enough attention. The reason probably has to do with all the "just meh" feta cheese on the market—normally made with cow's milk—which doesn't leave much of an impression. True Greek feta, on the other hand, is made with either sheep's milk or goat's milk, which gives the cheese a perfectly tangy flavor.
These eight feta cheese recipes just might put feta back into its rightful spotlight. Whether crumbled into a spanakopita, formed into pillowy gnudi, or whipped into an ultra-creamy dip, feta brings a creamy, briny bite to these dishes. So what are you waiting for? Grab a good-quality block and let's get cooking.
Spanakopita (Greek Savory Greens Pie)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThis version of the Greek classic is what spanakopita should be (hint: it's nothing like the watery, bland store-bought variety you might be used to). A combination of tender greens and herbs gives the pie subtle complexity and maximum flavor, while quality extra-virgin olive oil adds richness and depth, and loads of good feta bring the perfect amount of tanginess. Adding trahanas—small, pebbly crumbles made from a fermented porridge of grain and dairy—helps absorb excess moisture from the greens. If you're looking for something a little more filling, try this creamy garlic chicken version.
Spinach and Feta Gnudi in Mushroom-Saffron BrothSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThough often compared to gnocchi, these delicate cheese dumplings are more like ravioli filling without the pasta purse—hence the name "ravioli gnudi," or nude ravioli. For his spin on the classic ricotta gnudi, Nik Sharma changes the flavor profile by incorporating feta, which has a drier texture and sharper taste, adding complexity to an otherwise simple dumpling. Squeezing out any excess liquid from the feta will help ensure the gnudi holds its shape during cooking.
Whipped Feta DipSerious Eats / Vicky WasikWho knew feta cheese could be whipped into an ultra-light and dreamy dip you'll want to slather on everything? In this recipe, Greek yogurt serves as the creamy base and complements feta's saltiness. We pass the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer to make it even smoother and silkier. There are endless ways to flavor this dip—fresh herbs, harissa, roasted red pepper—but just make sure to reduce the amount of yogurt you use if choosing to incorporate a wet ingredient.
Borek (Armenian Spinach and Cheese Turnovers)Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianNo Armenian mezze spread would be complete without some of these crispy, cheesy hand pies. A tangy filling of Muenster, feta, and goat cheeses and aromatic herbs are wrapped inside layers of gossamer-thin phyllo dough brushed with clarified butter, and sprinkled with sesame and nigella seeds.
Pizza With Zucchini, Feta, Lemon, and GarlicSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltNo one wants to eat pale, soggy zucchini, especially not on a pizza. One way to prevent this from happening is to salt the zucchini and squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Another is to pair it with a low-moisture cheese, like feta. The salty, clean flavor of the feta pairs well with zucchini, lemon, and garlic, and contrasts nicely with the creamy, stretchy mozzarella.
Roasted Garlic and Feta Chicken SausageSerious Eats / Joshua BouselSkin-on chicken thighs provide richness, moisture, and just the right amount of fat for these links to cook up and eat like regular pork sausage. But it's the feta and garlic that do all the heavy lifting in seasoning these juicy flavorful links. With every bite, you taste the gentle melding of chicken and garlic, with sharp and salty feta pocketed throughout.
Quick-Marinated White Bean Salad and Feta Lettuce CupsSerious Eats / Matthew and Emily CliftonWe're as guilty as anyone of not wanting to put meals together from time to time—especially during the week. That's why this recipe comes together in about 20 minutes, and features creamy white cannellini beans with briny olives, fresh cucumbers, tomatoes, feta cheese, and a bright vinaigrette. Because easy doesn't have to mean sacrificing flavor!
Mint, Feta, and Pistachio PestoSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerFor this twist on classic pesto, Daniel leans on the creaminess of feta to give the sauce more body. He also swaps traditional pine nuts for pistachios, and uses a mix of mint and parsley instead of basil. While this pesto is great on pasta, it also works well on anything from sliced tomatoes to boiled potatoes and meats like chicken, pork, or lamb.
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowThere isn’t much that I love more than a cloth napkin. You may think I’m exaggerating, but then, you haven’t seen my linen closet. I adore cloth napkins. I swoon over them. I compulsively buy new sets, even though I’ve already got a dozen in regular rotation. It’s such an easy way to add personality to a dinner table, and because I have napkins in different colors and patterns, I can easily switch things up to keep with the season, formality level, or just my mood.
You may also think that 12 sets of napkins is enough napkins, or perhaps too many napkins. But you and my boyfriend are wrong: I need more. I’m perpetually on the hunt for the best—the perfect—cloth napkin, so I ordered 11 more sets and put them to the test. I found five winners that’ll look smart on any table, no matter how many you already own.
The Winners, at a GlanceThese luxuriously thick napkins are indisputably well made, and they subtly elevated my table setting with their moody, chic Cypress hue. (Coyuchi offers a few other colors, including Blue Jay and Rust.) They’re pricey, but I’d be shocked if they don’t last for years.
Tightly woven flax linen gives these napkins a delicate, soft feel. I was delighted that they looked great, even with a rumpled “just out of the dryer” look. Who wants to iron napkins every week, anyway?
At less than $2 a napkin, I wasn’t expecting much out of these. But the addition of polyester made these cotton-blend napkins refreshingly unfussy. They’re ideal for messy meals or households where napkins tend to turn into paper towels and dish rags.
These two-toned napkins cost less than $10 a pop and offered a moderate size option. Available in a handful of colors, they washed well and felt soft but super durable in my hands.
The ricrac (a.k.a. scalloped) edge gave these crisp napkins a vintage, handmade look that can add a subtle design element to special meals. While they required more involved care—I wouldn’t set the table without ironing these first—they’re a lovely option for dinner parties and entertaining.
The TestsWe didn't just use the cloth napkins—we rigorously tested and studied them.Serious Eats / Rochelle Bilow Foldability and Stacking Test: After taking the measurements and weights of the napkins and inspecting them for imperfections, I folded each one, as if I were preparing to set a table. I noted how well the napkins lay when folded, and if any edges flopped, or did not meet up. (Disproportionately long sides are a sign of poor manufacturing.) I also stacked the napkins and tucked them in a drawer to see how much space they took up, and if they could handle being piled high. * Dinner Test: I used each napkin throughout a meal, unfolding it on my lap and placing it on the table next to my plate. I wiped my hands and mouth with the napkin as needed, observing how absorbent it was. * Staining Test: I smeared half a teaspoon of ketchup on each napkin and let them all sit for three hours. I washed them according to their care instructions and noted how each fared. I paid attention not just to residual staining, but also any frayed edges, extreme shrinking, or unraveled seams. * General Use and Care Test:* After declaring the top contenders, I used them for three days during meals and when eating snacks. I washed them all again to determine how well they held up with regular use.
What We LearnedLinen Was Higher-Maintenance and Higher-CostLinen napkins wrinkle easily, especially around the edges.Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowIf you want a cloth napkin you can use and wash without a care, a polyester blend, like my winning budget pick from Ruvanti, is the ticket. A little polyester in the mix (these were 60% cotton, 40% poly) kept wrinkles at bay and was more stain-resistant. Linen was by far the worst culprit when it came to washing and care; the Sangeet napkins from Citizenry and the Quince European linen napkins were horribly stained after my ketchup test. (My winning linen pick from Material also suffered some staining.)
Polyester and poly-blended napkins have short fibers that pill and shed after washing.Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowIf you own linen sheets or clothing, you know that linen is also prone to wrinkling. In some cases, this made the napkins look messy and crinkled. The Sangeet napkins, in particular, wrinkled so much that I had a hard time flattening them with an iron. Although the Material napkins wrinkled, the thin hem and tight weave kept them from looking unpresentable: The phrase “charmingly disheveled” comes to mind. All that said: Polyester-blended napkins are more prone to pilling in the washer and dryer, due to their shorter fibers. Linen napkins (and other textiles) tend to be more expensive than polyester blends. It's a trade-off.
Hem Design Really MatteredCloth napkins with uneven, loose stitching couldn't stand up to the washing machine.Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowI wasn’t expecting the hem design to be as important as it was. But after a round of washing the napkins, I realized that poorly stitched hems were typically their downfall. Five Two’s cotton napkins looked nice with small “vintage-inspired” holes around their borders, but the thread was sloppily woven throughout them, and it started to unravel after just one wash. The Quince suffered an even worse fate because there was just one row of loosely threaded stitching.
Lighter Weight Was (Usually) ComfierLighter-weight napkins are ideal for everyday meals. Heavier weights lend themselves to more formal dining.Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowThe majority of my favorite napkins were lightweight, with a soft, breezy feel. Material’s linen napkins were the lightest at 37 grams. (My everyday choice, Hawkins’ striped dinner napkins, bested them by just one gram.) Lightweight napkins—hovering around 50 grams or under—had a more casual, no-fuss feel that was easy to launder and maintain. Heavier napkins tended to lend a formal, dinner party aesthetic that felt out of place at a Monday breakfast. In the worst cases, the heavy napkins reminded me of a corporate banquet—I was not a fan of Williams Sonoma’s 73-gram hotel dinner napkins. The one exception to my rule was Coyuchi’s textured Sonoma napkins. At 72 grams, they exceeded my preferred weight, but the luxuriously soft cotton kept them from looking too formal.
Style Was Subjective But ImportantThe Schoolhouse napkins' whimsical design can add charm to a table setting.Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowIt’d be foolish to assume my favorite “just for looks” napkins would also be yours. And even in my household, everyone gravitated toward different napkins during the dinner tests. But one thing’s for sure: A good napkin ought to have at least a little personality. Whether it’s neutral colors and unique weaves or bright, patterned options, the best napkins add to the overall appeal of a table setting. In contrast, the Utopia kitchen cloth napkins were so blandly white that I accidentally used one as a rag to sop up a spilled glass of water. Little details, like intricate stitching around a hem, or a fun texture, added a lot of appeal to a very utilitarian item.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Cloth NapkinSerious Eats / Rochelle BilowThe best cloth napkins are both soft and durable. Because they’re made to be washed many times, the stitching around the hem needs to be strong and neat, without loose threads. Whether you choose cotton, a cotton blend, or linen, the fibers should be tightly woven. To get the most use out of your napkins, don’t buy a set that needs special care, like gentle laundering and ironing.
Our Favorite Cloth NapkinsWhat we liked: I recommended Coyuchi’s kitchen towels when I first reviewed them last year, and I’m not surprised that the brand’s organic cotton napkins were also standout performers. The textured weave felt nice in my hands and helped to hide food stains. More than any other napkin I tested, I felt okay squeezing a few more meals from these after one use. The colors are gorgeous and made from nontoxic dyes (I tested the Cypress color). The stitching was impeccable, and I believe these will last for years to come.
What we didn’t like: If you prefer lighter-weight napkins, these are on the heavier side. They cost almost $15 per napkin.
Key Specs Materials: 100% organic cotton * Dimensions: 20 x 20 inches * Weight: 72 grams * Number in set: 4 (12 also available) * Price per napkin:* $14.50
What we liked: Like most of Material’s lineup of kitchen equipment, these linen napkins are sophisticated and well made. (We recommend Material’s steak knives and reBowl, too.) Of all the linen napkins I tested, these were the softest and most stain-resistant. They did rumple but never looked unkempt. The colors are inspired by nature and are all complementary, should you choose to mix and match them.
What we didn’t like: Although they handled the stain test decently well, their linen construction makes them more prone to staining and discoloration than cotton or polyester. They’re neck-and-neck with Coyuchi for some of the priciest napkins I tested.
Key Specs Materials: 100% linen * Dimensions: 18 x 18 inches * Weight: 37 grams * Number in set: 4 * Price per napkin:* $13.75
What we liked: I was pleasantly surprised by the color of these napkins. They appear charcoal gray on the Amazon listing, but they’re much closer to a subtle dark lavender. They boast all the benefits of a polyester blend (minimal pilling or wrinkling, and a soft texture), without the low-end sheen or scent that some poly-cotton blend textiles have. Because they’re so inexpensive, I'd happily toss these napkins to kids on pizza night without fear.
What we didn’t like: After two washes, some of the stitching had loose ends and the fabric was pilling. The material sourcing isn’t as meticulous as some of our other winners.
Key Specs Materials: 60% cotton, 40% polyester * Dimensions: 18 x 18 inches * Weight: 46 grams * Number in set: 12 * Price per napkin:* $1.58
What we liked: The Goldilocks of cloth napkins, these ticked just about every box during my testing. They’re not too fancy, but still well made. They come in a handful of nice colors, and they’re soft without falling victim to unraveling and pilling.
What we didn’t like: They shrunk a considerable amount—almost two inches—after the first wash.
Key Specs Materials: 100% cotton * Dimensions: 19 x 19 inches * Weight: 41 grams * Number in set: 4 * Price per napkin:* $9.50
What we liked: “I like these!” my boyfriend (and apparent #cottagecore Pinterest fangirl), exclaimed during the dinner test. They’re bordered with a red ricrac that brought to mind an art project done by a preschooler with a very steady hand. I mean that in a nice way! They’re pretty, and add an elegant-yet-approachable touch of color to an otherwise basic design.
What we didn’t like: They don’t look as nice if they’re not ironed. For that reason, I’d save them for company. The cream color meant that stains showed up easily.
Key Specs Materials: 90% cotton, 10% linen * Dimensions: 18 x 18 inches * Weight: 44 grams * Number in set: 4 * Price per napkin:* $9.75
The Competition* Williams Sonoma Hotel Dinner Napkins: This set of napkins gave off a corporate banquet hall vibe, and they were so thick that the stack toppled over repeatedly in my cabinet. * Five Two Everyday Soft Cotton Napkins: From afar, these thick, soft-hued napkins caught my eye. But look closer, and you’ll see the messiest hem stitching of any napkin I tested. * European Linen Gingham Napkins: While awfully pretty, these picnic-ready napkins were so thin that a barbecue sauce smear transferred onto my pants during dinner. The stitching wasn’t great either, with lots of loose ends at the corners. * Utopia Kitchen White Cloth Napkins: I had high hopes after declaring this brand’s bar mops a winner in my kitchen towel review. These napkins were inexpensive, but they were poorly made. They were scratchy-feeling, and the stitching around the hem was sloppy. * Sangeet Linen Napkins: I liked the story behind these napkins: They were hand-woven and certified Fair Trade. But the weave was loose, and the fibers were rough. Ultimately, they just didn’t perform as well as the other linen options I tested. * Our Place Loop Napkins: A napkin with a built-in napkin ring? I was intrigued, but despite watching the brand’s tutorial, I could never make mine look that pretty. Realistically, the formality seemed unlikely for 95% of my meals.
FAQsWhat’s the best material for cloth napkins?It depends on what you want in a napkin. While 100% cotton napkins are soft and pretty easy to care for, they can wrinkle and will shrink considerably if you dry them in a dryer. Napkins made from a blend of cotton and polyester are less prone to wrinkling, but the shorter fibers in polyester will cause pilling over time. Linen napkins have a luxurious, “natural” feel but stain and wrinkle easier.
Are cloth napkins eco-friendly?Yes, with some caveats. The material sourcing and production practices matter when it comes to environmental sustainability. If that matters to you, seek out organic napkins, and try to buy from small supply chains to minimize the carbon footprint. When laundering your napkins, use cold water and don’t wash unnecessarily or in small loads: That’ll boost your environmental impact.
How do you get stains out of cloth napkins?Pre-treat stains with a dab of stain remover or laundry detergent. You can also use a paste made from baking soda and water; pat it on the stain and let the mixture dry. Wash in cold water. If the stain hasn’t lifted after the first wash, do not put it in the dryer, as heat will “set” the stain.
Can you put cloth napkins in the dryer?All of the napkins I tested were dryer-safe. Be aware that cotton and linen napkins will shrink in the dryer. Use a low setting to minimize shrinking, and remove them as soon as the cycle ends to keep wrinkles at bay.
Why are my cloth napkins always wrinkly?See above. Leaving any textile in a dryer will cause wrinkles, but some materials—linen, cotton—are prone to wrinkling no matter how you wash and dry them. You can remove creases with an iron, or just embrace the rumpled life!
Why We’re the Experts* Rochelle Bilow is a commerce editor at Serious Eats * Rochelle has been testing equipment for Serious Eats since 2022. Her previous reviews include kitchen towels and dish gloves. * For this review, Rochelle put 11 sets of cloth napkins to the test, judging them on their performance, design, and value.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonBreville is often at the top of our recommendation lists for a reason. The brand’s espresso makers, coffee grinders, air fryer toaster ovens, and more have proven themselves to be built with performance and longevity in mind. After putting Breville appliances through our tests for years, we can confidently say that they stand up to the test of time. We’ve even used Breville coffee gear in the Serious Eats office, be it the Smart Grinder Pro or the Breville precision brewer. For Prime Big Deal Days, you can grab some of our favorites, including the best beginner-friendly espresso machine and the best air fryer toaster oven, on sale for up to $300 off.
The Best Breville Deals, at a Glance: The Best Beginner-Friendly Espresso Machine: Breville Barista Express Impress * A Great Espresso Machine with a Built-in Grinder: Breville The Barista Express Espresso Machine * The Best Touchscreen Espresso Machine: Breville Barista Touch Impress * The Best Toaster Oven Air Fryer: Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer Pro * An Efficient Toaster Oven: Breville Smart Oven * An Accurate Immersion Circulator: Breville Joule Turbo Sous Vide * A Versatile Food Processor: Breville Sous Chef Pro Food Processor * The Best Compact Indoor Pizza Oven: Breville Smart Oven Pizzaiolo Pizza Oven * The Quietest High-end Blender: Breville Super Q Blender * The Best Hand Mixer: Breville Handy Mix Scraper Mixer * The Best Centrifugal Juicer: Breville BJE200XL The Juice Fountain Compact * The Best Large Capacity Juicer:* Breville 800JEXL The Juice Fountain Elite
Breville Barista Express ImpressAmazonWith a built-in grinder, smart dosing system, assisted tamping lever, and powerful steam wand, this espresso machine is our top pick for espresso beginners, but it makes shots even experts admire. It's the machine associate editorial director Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm has at home and right now it's $200 off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonBreville The Barista Express Espresso MachineAmazonFor the espresso-curious, the Barista Express is another great entry-level machine that produces flavorful espresso shots and silky smooth milk foam. With its built-in coffee grinder and steam wand, you’ll have everything you need to start making espresso at home. Grab it while it’s still in stock.
Breville Barista Touch ImpressAmazonCoined by Serious Eats editors as the espresso machine that “does 99% of the work for you,” the Barista Touch Impress features a clear touchscreen that lets you choose which drink you’d like to make. From there, the machine walks you through each step of the process, from grinding to steaming milk, to ensure the perfect drink of your choice. It doesn’t get much easier, and the machine is an astounding $300 off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonBreville Smart Oven Air Fryer ProAmazonAir fry, toast, bake, broil, roast—this air fryer toaster oven can do anything. It produces crispy-crunchy fries and golden brown air-fried chicken wings. Its generous capacity also allows for cooking larger foods, like roast chicken or a pie. Snag it while it's $100 off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonBreville Smart OvenAmazonFor ten years and running, Breville’s Smart Oven Pro has been our favorite toaster oven. While that one’s not on sale, the Smart Oven is, and it’s nearly identical except for the lack of an interior oven light. It has the same fast, even heating that we know and love, so if you don’t really care about mood lighting for your toast, we recommend you grab this toaster oven while it’s 31% off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonBreville Joule Turbo Sous VideAmazonThe Breville Joule is 20% off and is a lightweight immersion circulator. It's accurate, compact, and fast. It also has a convenient magnetic base that can attach to a variety of vessels.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreBreville Sous Chef Food ProcessorAmazonThis Breville is one of our favorite food processors. It can easily slice paper-thin potatoes, knead pizza dough, and produce an evenly chopped mirepoix. It also comes with an adjustable slicing disc!
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonBreville Smart Oven Pizzaiolo Pizza OvenAmazonThis indoor pizza oven is a whopping $200 off and is just a tad bigger than a microwave. It reaches temperatures over 750°F, heats up quickly, and is easy to operate. The pizzas from the Smart Oven Pizzaiolo also come out fluffy with crispy, spotted bottoms. Snag one while it’s on sale.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreBreville A Bit More 2-Slice Toaster AmazonBe it sandwich bread slices or oversized bagels, everything we put into this toaster was evenly toasted and golden brown. It also has a cheeky “a bit more” button (the toaster’s namesake) for additional toasting. Right now, it's 33% off.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinBreville Super Q BlenderAmazonIt’s hard to imagine that a quiet blender even exists, yet the Breville Super Q proves otherwise. It ranked the best during our decibel test and comes with five convenient presets and 12 variable speeds. Like other Breville appliances, it’s easy to use thanks to the clearly marked buttons. You can grab it for $60 off right now.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyBreville Handy Mix Scraper MixerAmazonCalled the “Cadillac of hand mixers” in our review, the Breville Handy Mix is powerful and designed with thoughtful features like a storage compartment and a built-in light. In our tests, it made easy work of whipping cream, beating meringue, and mixing birthday cake batter. You can grab it for $50 off during Prime Big Deal Days.
Serious Eats / Afton CyrusBreville BJE200XL The Juice Fountain CompactAmazonWe were impressed by how much juice the Breville Juice Fountain Compact was able to produce during our tests. The mesh strainer excels at separating juice from pulp and the large feed chute allows fruits and vegetables to be added whole. Its compact size also makes it easy to store. For only $80, this juicer is great value.
Breville 800JEXL The Juice Fountain EliteAmazonFor juicing large batches of fruits and vegetables, we recommend this juicer. It has high and low processing speeds, allowing for better control when moving between softer or denser produce. This machine thoroughly extracts juice, leaving behind only dry pulp. It's also easy to assemble and comes with a one-quart cup for collecting large amounts of juice. Right now, it's 25% off.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyWhy We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * She has tested citrus juicers, vegetable peelers, and more for Serious Eats for nearly two years. * An is the proud owner of a Breville toaster oven and it’s her favorite countertop appliance.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreI test kitchen gear for a living, and just this year alone, I’ve tested (counts on fingers…), well, more gear than I can add up on two hands. With a calculator, it adds up to nearly 175 different items. Of that number, there are a few standouts, and several are on sale for Amazon’s October Prime Day: the cast iron skillet from Lodge, the inimitable Le Creuset Dutch oven, our longtime favorite blender from Vitamix, and an espresso machine from Breville that helps me get through the mid-day slump.
With Prime Big Deals Day here, many of my favorite pieces of kitchen gear are deeply discounted—up to 45% off. I’ve rounded them up and thrown in a sprinkle of other gadgets and thingamabobs that I also think are worth buying, especially when they're on sale.
The Best Editor-Loved Amazon Deals, at a Glance One of the Best Espresso Machines for Beginners: Breville the Barista Express Impress * A Flat-Top Griddle for Smash Burgers and More: Weber 36-Inch Gas Griddle * A Dutch Oven That'll Last a Lifetime: Le Creuset 5.5-Quart Dutch Oven * Our Longtime Favorite Cast Iron Skillet: Lodge 10.25-Inch Cast Iron Pre-Seasoned Skillet * The Best Blender Ever: Vitamix 5200 Blender * A Toaster Oven to Beat All Toaster Ovens: Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer Pro * The Best, Editor-Loved Kitchen Scale: OXO Good Grips 11-Pound Stainless Steel Food Scale * A Super Powerful Immersion Blender: Vitamix Immersion Blender * A Petite Stand Mixer for All Kinds of Baking Projects: KitchenAid Classic Series 4.5-Quart Tilt-Head Stand Mixer * A Multicooker for Weeknights:* Instant Pot Pro 10-in-1 Pressure Cooker
Breville Barista Express ImpressAmazonI’m no coffee aficionado, but I do enjoy a latte, and my husband enjoys a shot of espresso to get him through the 2 p.m. workday slump. So, this Breville espresso machine has enlivened our lives and made them a little less humdrum. Knowing how complex making coffee can be (just see some of our coffee gear explainers and reviews!), I was intimidated by espresso machines, but this one couldn’t be easier to use. It has a built-in grinder and assisted tamper, and it brews a balanced little shot of black gold in no time. It’s currently on sale at a significant $200 discount, so it’s worth grabbing.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonWeber 36-Inch Gas GriddleWeberCommerce associate editorial director Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm and I tested flat-top grills in the sweltering summer heat, slinging smash burgers and flipping grilled cheeses and eggs to find the very best. Even though it was a sweaty endeavor, I fell head over heels for flat-top griddles. They make it easy to cook up enough burgers or brunch dishes to feed a crowd, and they get ripping hot, which ensures the crispiest, crustiest smash burger. This one from Weber is on my to-buy list for Prime Big Deal Days because it’s easy to use, spacious, and heated up quickly and evenly in our tests.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreLe Creuset 5.5-Quart Signature Enameled Cast Iron Round Dutch OvenAmazonI’d long heard the merits of this Le Creuset Dutch oven, and I was not disappointed when I got my hands on one during my review. It's not too heavy, has a grippy handle on the lid, and is coated in enamel so sturdy a dentist would be jealous. Plus, a Dutch oven is a super sound kitchen investment—it’ll last you decades and is super versatile, readily making a mean pot of meatballs or a crusty loaf of bread. I use mine weekly.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyLodge 10.25-Inch Cast Iron Pre-Seasoned SkilletAmazonI’ve long sung the praises of cast iron cookware: It’s simple to use and easier to maintain than you’d think. When I reviewed 11 skillets, our longtime favorite from Lodge came out on top again. It’s quick to heat, gets a deep sear on just about anything, and comes pre-seasoned to help prevent sticking. I’ve been using my Lodge cast iron skillet for years and it’s still in fantastic condition. Oh, and it gets bonus points for its incredibly low price tag—made even lower for Amazon Prime Big Deal Days.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyVitamix 5200 BlenderAmazonI first used the Vitamix 5200 when I was a prep cook. I’d break it out day after day after day to pulverize spices and whip up silky sauces. The vortex created by the blending jar obliterated everything I put into it without a hitch. It’s also been our favorite blender here at Serious Eats for years, and whenever I turn it on and the powerful engine roars to life, I remember why.
Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesOXO Good Grips 11-Pound Stainless Steel Food ScaleAmazonWhile a kitchen scale might seem extraneous, I'm here to tell you it's essential. While many recipes give ingredients by volume, great recipes (like the ones we develop here at Serious Eats, hehe) also give weight so you can drill down to exact amounts. This is especially useful when baking, given variations in the accuracy of dry measuring cups.
I've had this scale from OXO for years, and I have yet to change the battery. It's also fast, offers weights in grams and ounces, and has a standby mode that keeps measurements for 15 minutes in case you walk away to tend to other kitchen tasks. I'd highly recommend becoming a precision cook and snagging this scale while it's on sale for Amazon Prime Big Deal Days.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerBreville Smart Oven Air Fryer ProAmazonThis toaster oven will change your life, and I'm not exaggerating. It's fast to heat up, has a super powerful convection fan that slashes cook times, and air fries really well. I honestly prefer using it to my standard oven, which feels slow and tepid in comparison. It's totally worth the price, and even more so now that it's $100 off for October Prime Day.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonVitamix Immersion BlenderWilliams SonomaI fell in love with immersion blenders when I was a prep cook and had to make mayonnaise daily—the stick blender made it a cinch. I bought this one from Vitamix after we reviewed it and were impressed with its power and versatility. Suffice it to say, I too have been impressed. It's got a high-octane engine that sucks food into the blade head and pulverizes it with aplomb. I use it to make mayo, emulsify dressings, and, when I'm really lazy, blend smoothies (don't tell my full-sized blender). This do-it-all immersion blender is now on sale for Amazon Prime Big Deal Days, and I highly recommend considering buying it.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyKitchenAid Classic Series 4.5-Quart Tilt-Head Stand MixerAmazonWhile I haven’t personally tested this stand mixer (though my team has and loves it), I grew up using it, and it’s still chugging along just fine at my parents’ house. It’s compact, so you can keep it on your countertop without taking up too much space, and the manual gear system won’t go kaput after a few years. Plus, if anything does go wrong, you can easily get it fixed by shipping it back to the factory.
Serious Etas / Irvin LinInstant Pot Pro 10-in-1 Pressure CookerAmazonWhile I haven’t officially reviewed Instant Pots, I have written a love letter to why this do-it-all appliance is still excellent, even if market enthusiasm has dampened. Mine is an older version of the Instant Pot Duo Plus, and I turn to it often during oopsy daisy meal prep moments, like when I forgot to soak some beans, or late-in-the-day hankerings—sometimes, all I want is some braised beef and poutine for dinner. It’s a fabulous, easy-to-use pressure cooker that cuts down cooking time massively—one could say, instantly, heh. (Ba-dum ching.) I’ll likely be upgrading to our winning Instant Pot this October Prime Day since it’s on sale.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinRubbermaid Brilliance BPA-Free Airtight Food Storage ContainersRubbermaidI recently forced myself to organize (read: pare down) my container cabinet, which was chock-full of mismatched lids, containers with cracked bottoms, and too many takeout boxes. This durable Rubbermaid set was one of the few food storage containers that made the cut and wound up back in my cabinet. They’re watertight, tough, and come in a bunch of sizes. The massive 44-piece set is currently 15% off for October Prime Day.
Serious Eats / Eric KingMessermeister Avanta 5-Inch Fine Edge Steak Knife SetAmazonWhile a steak knife set seems like a luxury, trust me: When you want to show off at a dinner party by serving a beef tenderloin, it’s nice to have a sharp set of blades on hand for guests to slice. (They beat a dull butter knife any day.) This budget-friendly set from Messermeister won our tests twice and has a classic steakhouse look. For October Prime Day, the ones with the stainless steel handles are on sale.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyDuralex Picardie Tempered Glasses, Set of 6AmazonI love these Duralex drinking glasses, and I’ve tested many, many drinking glasses. They’re functional and sturdy but also have an elegant, I’m-at-a-European-cafe-sipping-some-sparkling-water-vibe. The faceted sides make them easy to grip, while the fluted edge makes it pleasant to sip. Snag these while they’re on sale, and you’ll probably reach for them daily, like I do.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyFAQsWhen is Amazon Prime Big Deal Days 2024?Amazon Big Deal Days are on October 8 and 9, 2024.
Where can I find the best deals during October Prime Big Deal Days?We have scoured Amazon for fantastic deals on items we’ve tested and loved—see our roundup here. You can find even more great discounts at Amazon’s October Prime Day deals hub.
Do I have to be a Prime member to get deals on October Prime Big Deal Days?Yes, Prime members have access to exclusive deals during these sale days, but there are plenty of non-Prime-exclusive deals as well. It’s easy to sign up for Prime, though: You can even get a 30-day free trial.
Why We’re the Experts* Grace Kelly is a commerce editor at Serious Eats. * She’s been testing kitchen gear for more than three years. * This year alone, she’s tested almost 200 pieces of gear.
Serious Eats / Jaclyn MastropasquaHalloween will be here sooner than you think. Before trick-or-treaters are on your doorstep and you have to rush out for a restock, we asked Serious Eats staffers what, in their opinions, was the best Halloween candy that you can buy online. Naturally, the team was very passionate about recommending treats, from nostalgic classics to modern takes on candies we know and love. This year’s candy haul includes Shaq A Licious XL Sour Gummies, Tony's Chocolonely assorted minis, Theo peanut butter cups, and more.
Editor-Loved Halloween Candy, at a Glance: A Fun Sour Candy: Shaq A Licious XL Sour Gummies * An Nostalgic Classic: Nerds Candy * An Assortment of Chocolate Minis: Tony's Chocolonely Assorted Milk Chocolate Pieces * A Candy With Real Fruit in It: Sunmaid Vanilla Yogurt Covered Raisins * The Saltiest Licorice: Katjes Salzige Heringe * A Hometown Favorite: Oliver’s Sponge Candy * A Modern Twist on Peanut Butter Cups: Theo Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Cups * An Editor-Loved Pizza Gummy: E. Frutti Gummi Candy Pizza * A Divisive Candy: Candy Corn Pumpkins*
Shaq A Licious XL Sour GummiesAmazonI love gummies. I can easily eat a whole bag of Sour Patch Kids, Trader Joe's Sour Scandinavian Swimmers, or Swedish Fish, much to the chagrin of my gut bacteria. And recently I've found a new favorite sour gummy, peddled by none other than Shaquille O'Neil. They're called Shaq-a-Licious XL Gummies, and if that doesn't hook you, I don't know what will. It's a medley of green watermelon-shaped shamrocks, berry cacti, and pineapple-flavored diesel engines (at least, I think that's what they are)—all nods to Shaq's storied NBA career. They're the perfect gummy texture (not too chewy, nor too soft) and pack the perfect pucker-worthy sourness. I would say I'd give these out for Halloween, but I probably will just eat them myself, sorry kiddos. — Grace Kelly, commerce editor
Nerds CandyAmazonNerds are an elite candy. I'll eat regular Nerds right from the box, but Nerds rope candy is the second-best iteration, in my opinion. The chewy rope is absolutely covered with the tiny, crunchy sugar balls. I'm literally munching on one as I type this. — Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, associate editorial director
Tony's Chocolonely Assorted Milk Chocolate PiecesAmazonI love variety and this bag of Tony's Chocolonely assorted milk chocolate pieces offers six fun flavors, including pretzel toffee (my favorite), honey almond nougat, caramel sea salt, and others. I always have a bag of these in my pantry but it's an extra joy to give them away on Halloween. — An Uong, commerce writer
Sunmaid Vanilla Yogurt Covered RaisinsAmazonAm I going to be the "bad house" on my block this Halloween? Guess so. More for me! — Rochelle Bilow, commerce editor
Katjes Salzige HeringeAmazonI don't have a big sweet tooth, but cover a piece of candy in a mind-bending amount of salt, and I'm in. The real allure of these candies is that nobody in my house steals them from me. — Rochelle
Oliver’s Sponge CandyAmazonOliver's is the candy store in my hometown. If you know anything about Western New York, you know it's home to sponge candy, which is kind of like an airier honeycomb covered in chocolate. This version from Oliver's is wonderful. Growing up, the trick-or-treating house to hit belonged to the owners of Oliver's because they gave out their full-size chocolate bars. If you're ever near Buffalo, NY, I highly recommend stopping by the shop. — Riddley
Theo Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter CupsAmazonI love just about every brand of peanut butter cup I've ever tried, including the old standby, Reeses, but Theo's dark chocolate peanut butter cups are my absolute favorite. As you'd expect from a chocolatier, the actual chocolate is excellent quality, but these also have a really good peanut butter filling that's creamy, not overly sweet, and has just the right amount of salt. — Megan O. Steintrager, associate editorial director
E. Frutti Gummi Candy PizzaAmazonThese tiny little gummy pizzas instantly bring me back to being a kid, leaving the library with my little sister, and stopping at the corner store across the street before walking home for lunch during the summer. They are so cute and so nostalgic! Plus, who doesn't love food shaped like other food? — Amanda Suarez, associate visuals director
Candy Corn PumpkinsAmazonGo ahead. Hate all you want, but SOMEONE has to love this timeless right-of-passage Halloween candy! (I know our executive editorial director, Tess, agrees with me!) I actually prefer the candy pumpkins over the candy corn because I love how there's more surface area for my teeth to sink into. They're slightly waxy and I love them. So go ahead and hate all you want, that just leaves more for me. — Leah Colins, senior culinary editor
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * An’s favorite holiday is Halloween and every year she hoards her favorite Tony’s Chocolonely minis.
Serious Eats / Reese HerringtonAny time a cooking show comes on, you can bet that our eyes are screening for Serious Eats tested favorites among the kitchen equipment, be it the most powerful blender or the best stainless steel skillets. That’s why we were simply giddy to spot so many of our tried-and-true top picks in this season’s opener of The Great British Baking Show (otherwise known as The Great British Bake Off in the UK). The talented bakers have already presented intricate bakes like delicate Battenbergs and Viennese whirls and we’re only two episodes into the season. They whip up all of this baking magic with the help of great kitchen tools, including the KitchenAid Artisan stand mixer, Thermapen ONE, Microplane zester, and more.
Serious Eats Tested Favorites Seen on The Great British Baking Show: The Best Stand Mixer for Home Bakers: KitchenAid Artisan Series 5-Quart Tilt-Head Stand Mixer * The Best Food Processor: Magimix 14-Cup Food Processor * The Best Instant-Read Thermometer: ThermoWorks Thermapen ONE * A Super Sharp Zester: Microplane Premium Classic Series Zester/Grater * A Great Adjustable Rolling Pin: GIR Rolling Pin * An Efficient Bench Scraper: OXO Bench Scraper * The Best Manual Citrus Juicer: Chef'n FreshForce Citrus Juicer * The Best Immersion Blender:* All-Clad Stainless Steel Immersion Blender
KitchenAid Artisan Series 5-Quart Tilt-Head Stand MixerAmazonThe KitchenAid Artisan Series 5-quart stand mixer has been a constant on The Great Baking Show since the very beginning. Through every season, this stand mixer has helped bakers turn out dough, batter, frosting, and much more. It’s one of our top recommendations for stand mixers thanks to its strong motor and tilt-head design. It’s also on sale for $80 off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreMagimix 14-Cup Food ProcessorAmazonWe spotted our favorite Magimix food processor on every baking island when bakers had to make marzipan for their Battenberg cakes. We’ve recommended it for about seven years thanks to its efficiency with slicing potatoes, grating cheese, and kneading dough.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonThermoWorks Thermapen ONEThermoworksA favorite instant-read thermometer of ours for years, the Thermapen ONE is a friend to bakers. It’s accurate, and thankfully, for Baking Show contestants, it’s speedy. While Britain’s Thermapen differs from ours, the ThermoWorks model delivers lightning fast readings and we love that it has an adjustable folding probe to make temping from any angle possible.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinMicroplane Premium Classic Series Zester/GraterAmazonWith the amount of citrus that shows up in Baking Show bakes, it’s not surprising to catch a Microplane zester being held over a cake batter or frosting. Zesters make quick work of adding brightness to bakes, and the Microplane does it best with its sharp blade and comfortable handle.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinGIR Rolling PinGIRFor the precision needed in some of the technical challenges, an adjustable rolling pin is essential. We spotted quite a few inside the tent, and while we didn’t catch the brand, we recommend grabbing a GIR adjustable rolling pin if you want more accuracy in your own baking. The silicone rings slide on easily to ensure consistent thickness no matter what you’re rolling out.
Serious Eats / Eric KingOXO Bench ScraperAmazonFor cleaning, scraping, dividing, and shaping, a bench scraper is an essential baking tool that serves so many purposes. The bench scrapers we saw on this season of The Great British Baking Show looked a lot like our favorite OXO Bench Scraper, which has a comfortable handle and a stainless steel blade that easily slides under doughs and scrapes up sticky messes.
Serious Eats / Eric KingChef'n FreshForce Citrus JuicerAmazonWe saw contestants using a manual citrus juicer in quite a few bakes in the first episode of the season, and could help but think of our favorite Chef’n FreshForce citrus juicer, which juices lemons and limes quickly while also extracting fragrant oils from their skin.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAll-Clad Stainless Steel Immersion BlenderAmazonAn immersion blender is useful for so much in the kitchen, from blending soups to emulsifying sauces. We weren’t surprised to see one on the show this season, though it was a Braun immersion blender, which we tested but didn’t select as a top pick. Instead, we’d recommend the All-Clad immersion blender which is powerful and easy to use. Plus, it’s $50 off.
Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesFAQsWhere can I find the best baking equipment?Here’s our guide on the essential baking tools you should have at home, according to a chef.
How do I get started with baking?We have a roundup of the best baking cookbooks that cover delicate pastries to hearty loaves of bread.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a Commerce Writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * An has developed recipes for Bon Appetit, Taste Magazine, and other food publications. * She bakes multiple times a week and hopes to one day open a little bakery.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCoquilles Saint-Jacques simply means "scallops" in French, but it also is a common shorthand for referring to this specific preparation, in which meaty and sweet scallops are coated in a velvety sauce, topped with breadcrumbs, and broiled until browned on top. It's a classic of the French kitchen that is frequently found on the menus of bistros and brasseries, and makes for a wonderfully elegant appetizer when entertaining at home, especially when served on a scallop shell.
My recipe is designed to honor the most traditional versions of this dish, while taking several liberties to boost flavor and resolve some of the bigger issues I had when following more traditional versions closely. Before I explain my departures from tradition and why I took them, I'll first go through the elements of this dish to explain more or less what's typical, though keep in mind this is a dish that takes many forms in different kitchens and hands—there is no one single way to make it.
Classic Elements of Coquilles Saint-JacquesMost iterations of this dish have a few key things in common:
- Scallops: Can't really have a scallop dish without scallops, right? In the most ideal of worlds, we'd all be able to find live scallops in the shell, which are the sweetest and freshest, and come with a shell that doubles as a built-in, very pretty serving dish. But the reality is that very few of us can get live scallops much of the time. That's okay, we can still make this work.
First, be sure to buy dry-packed sea scallops, not ones that have been brined. Brined scallops are swollen with brining solution, which causes them to dump liquid in the pan when cooked, preventing browning. Even worse, they taste like absolute crap, nothing like the amazingly sweet flesh of a proper dry scallop.
The scallops are traditionally poached gently in a white wine–based court bouillon (the term for a lightly acidic, aromatic broth used for such purposes). This poaching liquid is then used in the sauce (see below).
As for serving, if you really want to do it on the shell like you see in the pictures here, you can order cleaned scallop shells for food use online. You can also skip that and just use small ramekins or even small gratin dishes. * Sauce: The sauce for coquilles Saint-Jacques is typically a velouté, which is the French term for a velvety roux-thickened sauce made from a stock or broth, though milk or cream can be added as well. If it helps, think of velouté like a béchamel but with some kind of stock or broth in place of much of the milk.
Many recipes use the scallop's white wine–based poaching liquid to make the velouté, thickening it with a butter-and-flour roux, enriching it with cream or milk, and then further thickening and enriching it with an egg yolk. Many coquilles Saint-Jacques recipes also add mushrooms and shallots to the sauce. * Golden Topping: Once spooned into the serving vessels, the scallops and sauce are usually topped with a breadcrumb mixture, often with a cheese like Gruyère mixed in, and then broiled until golden and crispy—delicious proof that cheese and seafood can indeed go together.
I started my recipe development by making this recipe much closer to this more traditional approach, but I ran into some issues that I wanted to resolve. First, I found that the scallops too easily got lost when poached and covered in such robust other ingredients.
Second, I found the sauce too sharp. It lacked a savory depth; even rounded out with milk, the issue persisted. I concluded that basing the sauce on a court bouillon made primarily of dry white wine was contributing to this.
After some experimenting, the final version of my recipe attempts to address this, admittedly by departing from tradition in the process. I'm comfortable with that—authenticity for its own sake isn't something I'm interested in, as long as we're clear about when and why we're splitting from the more traditional methods.
The Techniques That Make This Recipe Different (and Delicious)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOne of the first things I did when rethinking my own approach to this classic was to sear the scallops. Searing good-quality sea scallops brings out their inherent sweetness and deepens it—it's something I wanted to infuse into both the scallops and the sauce. To make that happen, I sear the scallops in the very same saucepan I use to make the sauce, creating a fond on the bottom of the pan that I can then capture with subsequent deglazing.
Now, I'll admit that searing scallops in a small three-quart saucepan is not the ideal way to do it. They'll be a little crowded, they'll steam more, you may not get the world's best sear on them. But that's fine, the goal here isn't the world's best seared scallops, it's simply to cook them lightly and build some of that sweetness and fond.
The next change I made was adding bottled clam juice to the white wine broth. This adds a savory, shellfish-forward foundation for the sauce to support the scallops while reducing the quantity of wine in the sauce. The result is a more flavorful sauce that's nicely balanced with the wine's acidity, but not sharp or harsh.
To boost the sauce's flavor even more, I simmer the wine and clam juice with aromatics like shallot, thyme, bay leaf, and the trimmed stems of the mushrooms (because, yes, I decided I wanted to go with the mushrooms in this recipe). But then I took it a step further, adding a small dose of instant dashi. This is one of those obviously nontraditional techniques that makes such a wonderful different in the result. It increases the sauce's umami flavor while tying together two critical elements—the earthy mushrooms and sweet, fresh-from-the-sea scallops—thanks to the dashi's deep umami core that often incorporates both mushroom and ingredients from the sea.
Aside from that, I stick pretty close to tradition, cooking the mushrooms and shallots until deeply flavorful, building a roux- and egg yolk–enriched velouté, and topping each serving with crispy and golden buttery breadcrumbs flavored with grated Gruyere and fresh thyme.
The result is utterly French, even if this is, in some ways, a more modern interpretation of that. Then again, that too is utterly French, because the cuisine is very much alive and open to reinvention.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Breadcrumb Topping: In a small bowl, stir together panko, Gruyere, and thyme until thoroughly combined. Drizzle in melted butter, stirring until panko is evenly coated. Season lightly with salt.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Scallops: In a small saucepan, combine wine with thyme sprigs, bay leaf, halved shallot, and reserved mushroom stems. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until raw alcohol smell has mostly cooked off, about 4 minutes. Add clam juice and continue to simmer until liquid is reduced to about 3/4 cup (180ml), about 10 minutes. Strain into a heatproof 2-cup measuring cup, pressing on solids to extract liquid; discard solids. Let cool slightly.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezStir in instant dashi, if using, until fully dissolved, then stir in enough milk to total 1 3/4 cups (415ml). Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a 3-quart saucier or sauté pan, heat oil over high heat until shimmering. Season scallops with salt and add to pan. Cook, without flipping or moving, until moderately browned on bottom, about 3 minutes. Using a thin metal spatula, flip scallops, cook for 30 seconds on second side, then transfer to a plate. Lower heat to medium.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd minced shallots to pan and cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pan, until starting to soften and turn translucent, about 2 minutes. Add minced mushrooms and cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pan, until mushrooms have released their liquid and are starting to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in minced thyme and season lightly with salt.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd butter and cook until melted, then stir in flour until a lump-free paste forms with the mushroom mixture. Slowly whisk in reserved wine-milk mixture, making sure no lumps form as you go. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pan frequently to prevent scorching, until mixture has thickened to a thick and creamy consistency. Season lightly with salt, if needed. Remove from heat and let cool about 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a medium heatproof mixing bowl, whisk egg yolk while very slowly adding hot mushroom sauce; start out adding the cup or so of hot sauce in tiny additions, speeding up slightly after that point until all of the mushroom mixture is blended with the yolk. Return to saucepan set over medium heat, and cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pot constantly, until mixture has further thickened to a thick cream-sauce consistency. Remove from heat and let cool while stirring and scraping often to prevent residual heat in the pot from cooking scrambling the yolk.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTurn on broiler and set oven rack to upper position. Whisk any accumulated scallop juices into the mushroom sauce, then cut scallops into large pieces. In a small bowl, toss scallops with enough of the mushroom sauce to coat generously.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezScoop sauced scallops into cleaned scallop shells, ramekins, or small gratin dishes. Spoon more mushroom sauce on top so scallops are generously dressed.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSprinkle an even layers of breadcrumbs on top of each serving, then broil until golden brown. Serve right away.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentSmall saucepan, 3-quart saucier, scallops shells or ramekins or gratin dishes (see notes)
Make-Ahead and StorageThe breadcrumb mixture can be made up to 1 day in advance and refrigerated until ready to use (you may need to bring it back to room temp before sprinkling on scallops).
The scallops and sauce can be fully made through step 9, then covered with plastic and refrigerated for up to 1 day. Top with breadcrumbs and broil until fully heated through and golden on top (if you use a deeper vessel like ramekins, you may need to warm the scallops through in a moderate oven before switching to the broiler for further browning).
NotesScallops shells can come from live scallops (if you're lucky), ordered online (look for ones intended for food service use), or you can just use ramekins or gratin dishes.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor me, the first crisp winds of fall mean two things: sweatah weathahand pressure cooker weathah.It's this time of year when I pull out my Instant Pot to make stews, beans, and soups, which all come out relatively quickly and easily thanks to the temperature-raising effects of pressure. One of my favorite pressure cooker recipes for the fall is this comforting, saucy dish in which savory sausages and earthy lentils braise together for a weeknight-friendly dinner that's ready in under 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Qi AiPerfecting Savory Lentils and Sausage in a Pressure CookerLentils are one of my favorite ingredients to cook; they're one of those simple and humble foods that, when cooked properly, transform into something remarkable. And while they are one of the faster cooking beans, they can be notoriously tricky to cook until tender and intact without accidentally turning them into a mushy sludge. But, with proper use of a pressure cooker (more on that below), pressure cooking lentils is a foolproof method for evenly cooked, not mushy legumes.
Sauté the aromatics. A lot of pressure cooker recipes will have you just dump, stir, and cook your way to a subpar recipe, all in the name of extreme ease and speed. But it’s worth taking a few minutes to use the pressure cooker’s sauté function and sweat the aromatics in a bit of oil, just as you would in a pot on the stovetop. Sautéing the aromatics—onion, apple, thyme, garlic, cumin—before adding the chicken stock and lentils develops and deepens their flavor and infuses it into the stewed lentils.
Add an apple. It’s not traditionally thought of as an aromatic ingredient, but I like to include a tart green apple like Granny Smith for a hint of fruity acidity to round out the savory flavor of the lentils. When chopped and cooked under pressure, the apple melts into the stewed beans, guaranteeing a hint of sweetness in every bite of stew.
Cook everything together. Aside from complementing each other's flavor, sausage and lentils are also a common pairing for a more practical reason: they cook at relatively the same rate. This holds true when using a pressure cooker. In this recipe, I nestle the sausages into the lentils and then cook them together under pressure. After just nine minutes at high pressure, the lentils will be saucy and tender but still intact and the sausage juicy and plump, with their flavors infused throughout.
Serious Eats / Qi AiLet sit before releasing pressure. In our deep dive into how pressure cookers work, Tim Chin explains that there are three ways for releasing pressure before opening a pressure cooker: natural release, quick release, and cold water release. Cold water release isn't really an option for electric multi-cookers like an Instant Pot, since you don't want to run water over an electronic device (it can be used on stovetop pressure cookers, however).
Quick release, as the name implies, involves opening the pressure release valve immediately after cooking to allow steam inside the pot to rapidly escape. Doing so lowers the temperature quickly, but it also means that the contents inside the pot will begin to boil vigorously—something that doesn't happen when the contents are under pressure. I found that quickly releasing the pressure created so much movement inside the pot that it caused the sausages to split open and turned the lentils from tender and intact to mushy.
Instead, it’s best to briefly naturally release some pressure before opening. A natural release with a multicooker involves simply letting the pot sit off heat for some time to allow the temperature to gradually decrease until the spring-loaded lock disengages. I found letting the pot sit and naturally release pressure for just ten minutes, before releasing the remaining pressure via the quick-release method, ensured that both the lentils and sausage remained unbroken. Since there is significant carryover cooking during the ten-minute natural release wait time, I actually intentionally undercook the sausages and lentils during the at-pressure stage so that by the time the lid is opened and it’s ready to serve, everything is properly cooked.
Finish strong. For a final hit of bright, fresh flavor, I stir in a bit of vinegar (I used apple cider, though white white wine or sherry vinegar, or even lemon juice would work), chopped parsley leaves, and a big drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.
In under 30 minutes from start to finish, the efficient high heat of a pressure cooker results in spoon-tender sausage and lentils enveloped in an intensely flavored broth that clings to every lentil. It’s a perfect pressah-cookin’–sweatah-weathah recipe.
In an electric pressure cooker or multi-cooker such as an Instant Pot, heat oil using the sauté function until shimmering. Add onion and salt and cook, stirring often, until softened and beginning to brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in apple, thyme, cumin, and garlic, and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Qi AiAdd broth, lentils, and bay leaf and stir to combine. Nestle sausage links into lentils. Lock lid in place and close pressure release valve. Select high pressure function, bring to pressure, then cook at pressure for 9 minutes. Turn off the electric pressure cooker and let sit untouched to let pressure release naturally for 10 minutes. Quick-release any remaining pressure, then carefully remove lid, allowing steam to escape away from you.
Serious Eats / Qi AiStir in vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer sausage to a cutting board and slice sausage on bias into 1-inch pieces. Transfer lentils to individual serving dishes or a large serving platter and top with sliced sausage. Sprinkle with fresh chives or parsley, if using, and drizzle with additional oil to serve.
Serious Eats / Qi AiSpecial EquipmentElectric or stovetop pressure cooker (for stovetop cooker, see notes)
NotesIf using a stovetop pressure cooker, cook the onion and aromatics as directed over medium-high heat, then proceed with recipe, bringing cooker to high pressure before cooking at high-pressure for 9 minutes; let stand before using cold-water method or quick-release method to fully depressurize.
Make-Ahead and StorageLeftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe first time I went to France, I did the exact same thing as a lot of out-of-towners: I swooned over a €5 glass of wine. France is the top wine-producing country worldwide, and its varied landscape includes boldfaced estates whose prestigious bottles fetch thousands of dollars in global markets, as well as local wineries that specialize in inexpensive offerings called table wines. Easy-drinking and affordable, table wines have few regulations and restrictions—a rarity in French wine—and epic food pairing potential. When I tuck into bistro dishes like steak frites or leeks vinaigrette, a bright and balanced French table wine is what I want in my glass.
The words “table wine” rarely appear on labels, though, and definitions of the category vary, so you won’t spot retail shelves or menu sections devoted to them in the US. To explore the wide-ranging world of French table wines, I spoke with three experts: Gavin Honda, sommelier and sous chef at Tasting House in Los Gatos, CA; Grant Reynolds, founder of Parcelle restaurants and wine shops in New York City; and Matthew Sussman, proprietor of Bar Parisette in Chicago, IL. I also drew on my own decade-long experience in the wine industry as a server, journalist, and wine reviewer.
What Is Table Wine, Exactly?The definition of table wine differs by country. In the US, any bottle with lower than 14% alcohol by volume (ABV) can be called table wine. That’s not to say every bottle of low-ABV wine is a table wine; it’s up to the producer’s discretion.
In Europe, table wine used to be a catch-all term for inexpensive bottles that didn’t follow local regulations about which grape varieties and production methods to use. In 2009, the European Union introduced new classifications, and table wines became referred to as Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) or Vin de France (VDF), depending on how strictly they adhere to regional guidelines.
Whichever name you use, table wines are easy to love, Reynolds says. “A good table wine is rarely complex—just a nice, medium-to-full body red or a crisp and refreshing white.” There are rosé and sparkling table wines, too. None are collector’s items meant to be aged in climate-controlled cellars for years—these are for everyday drinking.
“A table wine is meant to be enjoyed with food—it’s right there in the name,” says Sussman. “What that entails is more of a bright fruit profile, typically, and good acidity, which lends a lot more versatility with food.”
How to Find French Table WinesTerms like table wine and Vin de France don’t typically appear on labels, but easy-drinking and affordable wines—which cost anywhere between $15 and $30 in a US wine shop—are made across France. One way to find them is to familiarize yourself with importers and distributors who specialize in this type of French wine. Look for importer information printed on the back label of the wine bottle. “Some of my favorite importers of French wine are Grand Cru Selections, Martine's, Kermitt Lynch, and European Cellars,” says Reynolds.
Sussman likes New York-based importer Louis/Dressner’s French wines, as well as those from Chicago-based Loci and Candid Wines. He also suggests asking a sommelier or person working in a wine shop if they have any favorite table wines or know of importers or distributors who bring bottles to your city or town.
Another way to find inexpensive, easy-drinking French wines is to embrace regions and grape varieties that are lesser-sung than prestigious areas like Burgundy or Champagne. When shopping for French wine or choosing a wine from a restaurant menu, note that bottles are labeled by geographic area rather than grape variety. That’s why a red wine from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes in the Margaux appellation of Bordeaux will be labeled Margaux, not Cabernet Sauvignon–Merlot.
French Red Table Wines and What to Pair Them WithSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Loire Valley in central France produces high-quality wines that are often less expensive than those from nearby regions. Chinon, the Loire’s largest red wine-focused appellation, specializes in Cabernet Franc, which Sussman calls “the perfect wine for steak frites.”
“You want something that has depth and structure, but also has fresh fruit and more of a juicy profile and not an oaky profile,” he says of the pairing. “Wines like Chinon are pretty perfect: they cut through the sauce really well and they have enough structure to play off the fattiness of beef. They’re fresh but also fun enough to drink with French fries and it doesn’t feel wrong.”
Chinon isn’t the only option, though. Reynolds calls steak frites and Côtes du Rhône “a dream pairing.” Côtes du Rhône is a region in southeastern France whose namesake wines include red blends made from three grapes—Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre—that you might see labeled as Côtes du Rhône AOC (a designation that stands for Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée and denotes geographical specificity) or Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC. These wines tend to have dry, fruity flavors like raspberry and blackberry that would also complement steak tartare or steak hache.
Wines from Beaujolais, the region just south of Burgundy, include fresh reds made from Gamay. Bottles on the lower end of the price spectrum can be juicy and light-bodied, and are sometimes served slightly chilled—think 55°F (13°C) instead of the 60-65°F (15-18°C) typical for red wine service. To cool a room-temperature bottle quickly, submerge the unopened bottle in an ice bath for five minutes, or moisten a paper towel with cold water, wrap it around the unopened bottle, and put it in the fridge for 10 to 15 minutes.
Honda recommends trying Beaujolais with poulet rôti, or roast chicken, calling the pairing “a winner every time.” You can also try it with lardon-studded salad Lyonnaise, steak hache, or a French cheese plate with double-crème Brie and other bloomy rind cheeses.
French White Table Wines and What to Pair Them WithSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn coastal southern France, the Languedoc region has a long history of table wine production. The quality of wines from this region varies, but one type that’s pretty consistent is Picpoul de Pinet. “It’s quite inexpensive, but a very tasty, versatile wine,” says Sussman. He suggests pairing it with leeks vinaigrette, noting that it has “enough body and acidity to stand up to the vinaigrette.”
Muscadet, which is how white wines made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape in the westernmost reaches of the Loire are labeled, is similarly well-priced and easy-drinking. “There are some really conscientious, extremely talented producers making exceptional [Muscadet] and still getting them to us wholesale at extremely low prices,” Sussman says. “These are coastal wines, very classically paired with oysters and other seafood.”
Other great wine pairings for bistro seafood dishes include Vouvray—the name for Loire Valley white wines made from tart, citrus-scented Chenin Blanc grapes—with coquilles St. Jacques. Pouilly-Fumé, the label for aromatic, medium-bodied Sauvignon Blanc wines from the Loire, is a good pairing for trout almondine.
In addition to its world-famous red blends, the Rhône Valley is also home to high-caliber white wine blends, some of which are relatively wallet-friendly. Honda suggests looking for inexpensive white wine blends labeled Côtes du Rhône or Côtes du Rhône Villages and made from blends of Marsanne, Roussanne, and Clairette to complement greens topped with chèvre and other bistro salads.
French Sparkling Table Wines and What to Pair Them With“Everyone wants Champagne, but Champagne is expensive,” says Honda. “The beautiful thing about France is they also have crémant, which is France’s answer to Champagne for the layperson.”
Like Champagne, crémant is made using the traditional method, which means the wine undergoes a second fermentation in its bottle and ages with its lees, or yeast particles, to develop nuanced flavors. (By means of comparison, most Prosecco is fermented in large tanks and sold unaged.) While Champagne can only be made in its titular region and from specific grape varieties, producers all over France use locally grown grapes to make crémants.
Honda recommends crémants made from Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon from the Loire Valley, which will be tart and citrusy, as well as minerally Pinot Blanc- or Chardonnay-based bubbles from Alsace and the Jura, two Alpine regions close to France’s German and Switzerland borders, respectively. These will be labeled by region rather than grape variety, so look for words like “crémant de Loire” and “crémant du Jura” on the front labels.“The Jura is my favorite,” Honda says. “They have pretty serious sparklers that rival Champagne.”
Try crémant as an aperitif before a meal, or pair it with shellfish like oysters, or a croque monsieur.
French Table Rosés and What to Pair Them WithSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezProvence is the French rosé region that most Americans are familiar with, but there’s often greater value to be found beyond Provençal borders. Ventoux, a high-altitude region in the southern Rhône, borders Provence and produces cherry-hued rosés at various price points. Affordable Côtes du Rhône rosés are also widely available. In the Loire Valley, look for bone-dry versions from the Rosé de Loire and Val de Loire appellations. Bordeaux doesn’t have a long history of rosé-making, but, in recent years, producers raised the caliber of their pink wine; there’s now a lot of value and quality among those that fall under the Bordeaux Rosé appellation. Alsatian winemakers make an array of crisp, fruit-forward rosés out of Pinot Noir, including accessible sparkling versions that will be labeled “crémant d’Alsace.”
These dry, food-friendly rosés are ideal alongside salty, eggy bistro fare like oeufs mayonnaise, croque madame, and quiche Lorraine. You can also pair them with seafood dishes like seared scallops or shrimp salads.
The Takeaway: There's Value in These VinsTable wine is an affordable, approachable style of food-friendly wine that’s produced across France. It’s unlikely you’ll ever see a bottle labeled “table wine,” so the best ways to find one are to get to know reputable importers, ask knowledgeable sommeliers or salespeople, and explore regions like the Loire Valley, Beaujolais, Alsace, and the Jura for great options.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSteak haché is not a hamburger, but I'd argue all the rules of a good hamburger more or less apply. A popular French bistro menu item, steak haché is simple ground or minced beef that's cooked like a steak, then served as one might serve a steak in a bistro—with salad, fries, or both, and usually with some kind of classic sauce, whether it be peppercorn, béarnaise, a red wine sauce, or something else. It's a simple and satisfying meal that delivers a steak-like experience at a much lower cost.
The main reason a patty made from ground beef is cheaper than an equivalent size steak has everything to do with the transformative power of grinding (or mincing) meat. By chopping the meat up into tiny bits, tougher, typically cheaper cuts of meat are rendered much more tender—the result of snipping chewy and collagenous muscle into much smaller bits. There are many parts of a cow—the chuck a prime example—that would be difficult to eat if cut and served as a medium-rare steak, but work great once chopped to tiny pieces.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis affordability factor is likely one of the things that made these types of minced steak dishes so popular throughout Europe, from the Hamburg steak to the French steak haché, and of course eventually to the American hamburger once it'd jumped the pond and taken on a life of its own here. With this type of dish, working-class folks were able to put meat on the table more often; during and after wartimes, when foods were rationed and often stretched with fillers, these dishes lent themselves to such frugality.
Outside of periods of hardship, though, I'd argue it's preferable not to stretch the ground beef with fillers like breadcrumbs or seasonings like minced onion, for the simple fact that mixing things into ground beef transforms its texture by bonding the proteins. Instead of a juicy, beefy bite, you end up with something springier, more like a meatloaf. Since steak haché typically comes with some kind of steak-friendly sauce, I'd rely on that for whatever infusion of flavor you're after.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezHere, I use the same basic hamburger patty techniques we've long advocated on Serious Eats:
- Use a relatively high-fat ground beef mixture that's at least 20% fat.
- Handle it minimally when forming the patties, then season generously on the exterior with salt and pepper.
- Sear in a hot skillet, flipping the patties every minute or two as they cook; this builds up a great, flavorful seared exterior while evening out heat penetration so that the interiors overcook around the edges less.
Once cooked, just slap the steaks on a plate, toss a salad, fries, or whatever you fancy alongside, add a condiment or sauce, and dig in. It's a hearty and filling classic for a reason.
Season patties generously with salt and pepper. In a large cast iron or stainless-steel skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add patties and cook, flipping every minute or two, until an instant-read thermometer registers 125°F (50°C) for medium-rare or 135°F (57°C) for medium. Transfer to a plate and allow to rest for 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer patties to serving plates and serve with salad and/or fries, along with the sauce of your choice.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentInstant-read thermometer
Serious Eats / Robbie LozanoI’m known among my friends for never changing up my two-scoop gelato order of pistachio and chocolate, no matter how many times I say I will. The flavor combination is one of my favorites: If I come across a croissant, cake, or cookie with pistachios and chocolate, it automatically has my name on it. There's just something so pleasing about the combination of bittersweet chocolate and rich, nutty pistachio that I can’t seem to get enough of.
That combination is even more delicious when you add kataifi, a crisp shredded phyllo dough, which is exactly what Sarah Hamouda, the founder of Fix Dessert Chocolatier in Dubai, did. Her confection, named “Can’t Get Knafeh of It,” is a nod to traditional Middle Eastern knafeh, a phyllo pastry filled with salty cheese that’s bathed in a fragrant rose syrup and orange blossom syrup and garnished with pistachios. Hamouda’s spin on the dessert is a milk chocolate bar filled with a mixture of pistachio cream and kataifi. Ever since an ASMR-style TikTok video of the chocolate bar went viral, people have flocked to social media to share their homemade versions of Hamouda’s creation, and many pastry chefs have even begun selling similar creations to profit off the hype.
You could, like many other people, recreate the famous confection at home, but making chocolate bars from scratch can be challenging. Not only do you have to temper chocolate—a meticulous process that gives chocolate its glossy sheen and firm snap—but you also need special molds. So we decided to reimagine the flavors of the Dubai chocolate bar as an easier but no less delicious dessert: a tart.
Serious Eats / Robbie LozanoTo mimic the flavors and textures of the popular chocolate bar, our Birmingham, Alabama–based test kitchen colleague Craig Ruff incorporates cocoa powder into our simple pat-in-the-pan tart crust and fills it with a mixture of browned kataifi, toasted pistachios, and pistachio cream for a beautifully paired textural combination that has both creamy and crunchy elements. A touch of tahini complements the nuttiness of the pistachios and brings additional richness. Topped with a silky chocolate ganache and chopped toasted pistachios, the tart is everything you could want in a dessert—especially if you’re a chocolate and pistachio lover like me.
3 Key Techniques for Making an Impressive Dubai Chocolate TartSerious Eats / Robbie LozanoToast the kataifi. To bring out the kataifi’s nutty flavor, we toast it in some butter until lightly golden. This sets off the Maillard reaction, a series of chemical reactions that occurs when heat transforms proteins and sugars into complex aromas and flavors.
Use a good quality pistachio paste.The flavors of pistachio paste vary brand to brand: Some might be slightly saltier, while others may be sweeter. The color can differ, too—this won’t impact its flavor, but it may give the dessert a slightly duller look that isn’t as eye-catching. Look for a smooth pistachio paste that’s slightly thicker than tahini, like Marco Colzani Pistacchi spread, which has a lovely bright green hue and a pistachio-forward flavor. Since the tart leans heavily on the flavor of the pistachio paste, it’s worth picking out a quality product. If you’re up for it, you can also make your own pistachio paste, which will give you more control over the consistency and flavor.
Reach for bittersweet chocolate when making the ganache. To offset some of the pistachio paste’s sweetness, we prepared the ganache with bittersweet chocolate, which prevents the dessert from becoming cloyingly sweet. We also added a tablespoon of corn syrup to help the ganache remain fluid, which makes it easier to spread over the tart.
For the Crust: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350ºF (175ºC). In a large bowl, whisk flour, cocoa powder, sugar, and salt together. Pour butter and water into the flour mixture and, using a flexible spatula, stir until well combined and a uniform dough forms.
Using your hands, pinch off and distribute 3/4 of dough over bottom of a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Press dough to an even thickness in the bottom of the pan. Pinch the remaining dough into smaller pieces and scatter evenly around the edge of the pan, then press dough into fluted sides of the pan. Press dough to even thickness until sides are completely covered.
Place the lined tart pan on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet and bake until fragrant and firm to touch, 25 to 35 minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking. Set aside until ready to fill.
For the Filling: In a 12-inch skillet, melt 4 tablespoons butter over medium heat until foamy. Add kataifi pastry and cook, stirring often and breaking up clumps with a wooden spoon until browned, about 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and let rest at room temperature until cooled, about 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Robbie LozanoMeanwhile, place pistachios on a 9- by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet and bake, stirring halfway through, until lightly browned and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Add toasted pistachios to kataifi bowl along with pistachio paste, tahini, and salt. Using a flexible spatula, gently fold to combine. Transfer mixture into prepared chocolate tart crust, and, using an offset or flexible spatula, spread into an even layer; set aside.
Serious Eats / Robbie LozanoPlace chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan, combine heavy cream, corn syrup, and remaining 1 tablespoon butter to a simmer over medium heat, about 4 minutes. Pour over chocolate and let stand until chocolate softens, 1 minute, and stir until stir until smooth. Cool chocolate mixture until warm but still pourable (100 to 105ºF or 38 to 40ºC), about 3 minutes.
Serious Eats / Robbie LozanoPour chocolate mixture over pistachio layer, and using an offset or flexible spatula, spread into an even layer. Refrigerate, uncovered, until ganache is set, about 1 hour. Garnish with chopped pistachios and flaky sea salt.
Serious Eats / Robbie LozanoSpecial Equipment9-inch tart pan, 12-inch skillet, 9- by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet
Make-Ahead and StorageThe chocolate crust can be substituted with a regular crust.
You can find kataifi at many Mediterranean and Middle Eastern markets, often in the frozen pastry aisle.
Serious Eats / Two BitesMy daughter eats oatmeal for breakfast—just boiled rolled oats with some sugar and milk. She loves it, but she’s a slow eater. Like any 13-year-old, she also sits down for breakfast just a few minutes before the school bus arrives. Inevitably, there are leftovers. “I promise to eat it in the evening,” she said recently before rushing out the door. When evening arrived, we pulled her leftover oatmeal from the fridge, but the texture had changed—it looked watery. Meanwhile, a second portion of untouched extra oatmeal that I'd also saved from the pot that morning was not only still thick, it had congealed quite a bit. This seemed rather odd.
I couldn’t be the only one who's noticed this, right? So I started looking up information about foods thinning after cooking and found several questions posted on various cooking sites over the years. In almost all cases they involved starchy or starch-thickened recipes:
- Why did my leftover chowder turn out watery?
- Why do all thick sauces and soups turn into thin liquid as I eat them?
- Why is my soup getting thin midway through serving?
People often responded with more questions: What kind of starch did you use to thicken the dish? How much did you add? How long did you cook it? The original poster's answers tended to suggest that these lines of inquiry were dead ends.
Serious Eats / Swetha SivakumaSo, why were these foods thinning? Nobody seemed to know for sure, but every once in a while someone in the discussion would float a suggestion that made everyone uncomfortable: Did you double dip into the food?
It's a question that comes with an inevitable “eww!” factor—double-dipping is like backwash, and most of us recoil at the thought of gross mouth germs getting mixed into whatever we have yet to consume. If we can put our gag-reflex on pause for just one second, however, there's a lot that's interesting about this suggestion, because what it's hinting at reveals more than just the answer to this food-thinning mystery, it's a great example of the important digestive powers of saliva.
Without saliva, eating and digesting would be a lot harder, and less effective. The mucus in saliva, for example, is essential to swallowing. When we chew, the mucus and water in saliva transform dry or crumbly food into a soft, sticky lump called a bolus, making it easier to swallow. This helps prevent choking and protects the esophagus from damage caused by rough food particles.
But the mucus isn’t the main point here. Saliva is mostly water—about 99%. The remaining 1% is a mix of mucus, proteins, and electrolytes. Among the proteins are enzymes that help break down food into smaller pieces, making it easier for the body to digest. The most abundant enzyme in saliva is salivary amylase, and this is the critical one to look at in this mystery of foods thinning and double-dipping.
Salivary Amylase: I Have One Job to DoSalivary amylase’s job is to break the α-1,4 glycosidic bonds in starch molecules to form smaller units like maltose and dextrins. That it works inside the mouth isn’t surprising; that is, after all, where saliva is found. What is surprising is that it continues to work outside the mouth as well, to the potential shock and horror of oatmeal eaters, soup sippers, and party guests crowded around bowls of dip everywhere.
Serious Eats / Swetha SivakumaBut this shouldn’t surprise you, because you’ve seen amylase enzymes at work outside their intended environment before. When you hydrate flour to make dough, the amylase enzyme in the flour starts breaking down starches into smaller units for the yeast to feed on, kickstarting the fermentation process and producing gasses that cause the bread to rise. Traditional alcoholic beverages like chicha beer and masato even use saliva to begin fermentation, snipping starches into smaller pieces that can then be fermented by yeasts. Enzymes take the mantra “You have one job to do” very seriously. Like robots programmed on an infinite loop, they keep doing their job until they’re finally rendered inactive, whether denatured by changes in pH or temperature, or brought to a halt by dehydration.
Testing Salivary Amylase on Starchy FoodsNow that we know amylase can continue working outside the body, the question is: What kinds of foods would it affect, and under what conditions? To test this, I needed a few starch-thickened dishes. Here are the ones I tested:
- Oatmeal
- Cream of Mushroom Soup
- Cream of Potato soup
- Cheese sauce
- Creamy Mac and Cheese
In all these cases, the dishes were thickened partly or entirely by starch molecules, which is a simple and inexpensive method for making foods less liquid. It works by heating a liquid that contains starch; once the temperature exceeds 140°F (60°C), the starch molecules start to unravel and absorb water in a process called gelatinization. The initially cloudy mixture transforms into a translucent gel, trapping water molecules between the starches.
I compared one set of starchy foods left untouched (as a control) with another set where I licked a spoon and swirled it around the foods. I repeated the licking and swirling process three times. After waiting 15 minutes, I examined the results.
Serious Eats / Swetha SivakumaWhy 15 minutes? Researchers estimate that salivary amylase remains active in the body for about 15 minutes before the food we chew and swallow gets fully mixed with gastric juices, where the acidic environment denatures the enzymes. This time also roughly matches the duration it takes to finish a meal. Therefore, whether inside or outside the body, we should see the effects within this timeframe. All the dishes were kept at room temperature, as enzymes work best around body temperature 90-98°F (32-37°C).
If the enzymes did their job, the smaller cleaved molecules would lack the thickening power of the longer starch molecules each dish started with. So, if my hypothesis was correct, the resulting foods should be thinner compared to the control version.
ResultsWithin 5 minutes, I began to see some thinning in the mushroom and potato soups. By 15 minutes, the results were quite significant for both the soup and the oatmeal. There was pronounced thinning and it was easy to visually tell apart the control versus the one with the amylase. Salivary amylase had a clear impact on the texture of these three foods in a brief window of time.
However, the cheese sauce and mac and cheese showed very little to no change. Why did the hypothesis fail for the thicker dishes? Most likely, because the thicker dishes depend partly on proteins in the cheese for thickening. Since saliva doesn’t contain enzymes that break down proteins, this might have limited the effect. Additionally, the increased viscosity of the cheese sauce could have slowed down the enzymes, reducing their ability to cleave as many starch molecules in the given timeframe.
Does This Mean One Should Never Double Dip?Enzymes work and they do have an impact. But if you are cooking for your family and checking for salt levels 18 times during cooking, you do not need 18 spoons. Enzymes are incredibly efficient at what they do, but they are easily disrupted. You do this on a daily basis. For instance, when you apply lime juice to apples and avocados, you inhibit the enzyme polyphenol oxidase, which prevents browning. Similarly, blanching vegetables before freezing them uses high heat to quickly deactivate the enzymes. Refrigerating foods slows down enzyme activity as well.
Serious Eats / Swetha SivakumaSo, when feeding your family, don’t worry about licking the tasting spoon. Enzymes need a Goldilocks set of requirements in pH and temperature to function optimally. The more you stray from their optimal zone, the less effective they perform. For instance, putting your spoon into boiling porridge renders them completely inactive. Similarly, tomato or other acidic soups and stews also denature the enzymes.
But if you find a suspiciously runny soup, porridge, or roux-thickened sauce or dip in the office refrigerator or at a holiday party, you might want to stay away…because the enzymes from someone's spit have been hard at work!
Serious Eats / Fred HardyI’ll admit, I don’t spend a ton of time on TikTok, but I do know that there’s a seemingly infinite amount of food and cooking videos to scroll through. Even though I attempt to limit social media use, it seems I can’t escape the algorithm, and one recipe trend that has stuck around for the last couple of years is the crinkle pie—also sometimes known as crinkle cake—and its predecessor, ruffled milk cake. But unlike many questionable social media trends, this is one I actually love, in both its sweet and savory incarnations.
The video that started the viral crinkle trend a couple years ago is attributed to TikTok creator @RamenaSaidWow. Her recipe and subsequent copycat recipes (both sweet and savory versions) cleverly fold sheets of store-bought phyllo dough together like an accordion, then douse them with butter, sugar syrup (for the sweet versions), and a simple custard. It’s an easy to prepare sweet or savory pie that can be customized in myriad ways. But this concept of crinkled phyllo drenched in a custard and baked is nothing new. You can trace the roots of this dish to other phyllo-focused baked recipes found throughout the Mediterranean and Balkan regions, such as the Greek dessert galaktoboureko (ruffled milk pie) and savory vegetable-focused phyllo dishes like Greek spanikopita and hortapita and Armenian borek; there’s also sweet souffra and savory gibanica. All feature phyllo dough that’s scrunched up, layered or pressed into a pan, and covered in a creamy custard and/or filled with vegetables before baking.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyFor our take on the crinkle pie, we chose to go the savory route and asked our test kitchen colleague Nicole Hopper to create a version of the dish that's ideal for fall. Through rounds of testing, Hopper perfected a recipe for a satisfying crinkle pie inspired by the flavors found in many of the savory Mediterranean phyllo dishes. Her version features hearty fall and winter vegetables such as butternut squash, shallots, and kale seasoned with garlic, thyme, and aleppo pepper, then covered with a savory custard. The bottom and edges of the pie get deeply browned and crisp, the top is lightly golden, and the inner layers remain soft and custardy; it’s creamy and crisp all in one bite.
Hopper admits that this recipe definitely took a couple tries to nail, with a few lessons along the way: Overpacking it with raw vegetables led to a soggy pie, while cramming too much phyllo into the dish also had a similarly soggy result. She also found that it's important to season the custard well to ensure that the pie is not bland.
To solve these issues, she focused first on the phyllo sheets. She found that par-baking the arranged scrunched phyllo sheets in the pan before layering in the other ingredients ensured the phyllo remains crisp. And sautéeing the aromatics and the kale not only develops a robust flavor, but cooking the mixture drives off excess moisture, ensuring a creamy, not soupy pie. The sautéed kale and shallot mixture along with thin raw butternut squash slices and crumbled feta are all lovingly tucked between the pleated phyllo.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyPre-cooking the squash before layering it into the pan proved to be unnecessary in testing, plus we wanted it to retain a bit of texture to contract the creamy custard once baked. The custard is bolstered with garlic and herb Gournay cheese (such as Boursin) and lemon zest to guarantee an incredibly rich flavor. Once baked, a final drizzle of honey not only adds a glossy sheen, but echoes the sweetness of the squash.
The end result is an incredibly delicious Mediterranean-inspired savory vegetable pie. I have to grudgingly admit, this social media trend is a good idea.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F(175℃). Using a pastry brush, brush a 9- x 13-inch baking pan with melted butter; set aside remaining unused melted butter.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyUnroll phyllo sheets. Stack 2 sheets together and using your fingers, scrunch up in an accordion-like fashion. No need to be super precise and it’s OK if the sheets tear or crack; you just want to aim for the pleats to be about 1-inch wide. Arrange in prepared baking pan, with peaks standing and facing up. Repeat with remaining phyllo sheets and layer into pan until pan is completely filled with the pleated phyllo. Bake until top is lightly golden and crisp, about 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyMeanwhile, in a large skillet, heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 6 minutes. Add garlic, thyme, aleppo pepper, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add kale and water and cook, stirring often, until kale is wilted and tender and water evaporated, about 5 minutes. Set mixture aside to cool slightly until ready to use.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyOnce phyllo is crisp and golden, remove pan from oven. Arrange and tuck sliced butternut squash in between the folds and pleats of the par-baked phyllo. Sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and drizzle and brush evenly with remaining reserved melted butter. Return to oven and bake until squash begins to soften, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyMeanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk milk, eggs, Gournay cheese, lemon zest, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon black pepper until smooth; set aside.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyRemove pan from oven. Sprinkle reserved shallot and kale mixture and crumbled feta over the squash and phyllo. Use your fingertips to gently push the vegetables and feta in between the layers. Pour the milk mixture evenly over top. Return to oven and bake until squash is tender, custard is set, and pie is browned around the edges and golden on top, 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyDrizzle with honey and garnish with additional thyme leaves and lemon zest. Slice and serve hot or at room temperature.
Serious Eats / Fred HardySpecial Equipment9- x 13-inch baking pan, pastry brush, large skillet
Make-Ahead and StorageThe entire baked pie or any leftovers can be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a 325℉ (160℃) oven, covered with foil, until warmed through, or let sit on counter until it reaches room temperature before serving.
Serious Eats / Vy TranEven though we're well into fall, it still feels like summer in most parts of the San Francisco Bay Area, which has me wanting to enjoy spicy foods with an icy cold beer, a cool glass of wine, or a frosty cocktail. Being the wuss that I am, I prefer finger foods and small bites—so I can quickly quell the heat with one of the aforementioned drinks between mouthfuls—which is why these nine spicy shrimp recipes are totally my jam.
Firstly, they're easy to whip up and don't require a long list of ingredients. Some, like goong pad nam prik pao (Thai stir-fried shrimp with chile jam) and ebi no chirisōsu (Japanese shrimp in chile sauce), rely on jarred condiments to do the heavy lifting. Best of all, you can dial the heat level up or down to suit your spice tolerance—go ahead and toss in a few more bird's-eye chiles (seeds and all) if you like things fiery. And don't be surprised if when these dishes have you licking every last bit of sauce off your plate and fingers!
Jamaican Pepper ShrimpSerious Eats / Jillian AtkinsonStewed in a flavorful broth that's loaded with onion, garlic, allspice, thyme, and plenty of fiery Scotch bonnets, this popular Jamaican roadside snack is just as easy to make at home. Annatto powder and annatto seed oil give the shrimp their signature red color. If you like your shrimp scorching, finely chop the peppers and seeds to intensify the heat, remove the seeds for less heat, or (if you're like me) leave the peppers whole for even less heat.
Easy Shrimp With Cilantro SauceSerious Eats / Larisa NiedleAdapted from her maternal grandmother's recipe, this dish from Kaumudi Marathe's features plump shrimp swimming in a spicy chutney made of cilantro, chiles, and lots of garlic. Whole and ground cumin add earthiness to balance the bright, fresh cilantro in the sauce. Briefly searing the marinated shrimp before simmering in the sauce adds yet another layer of flavor.
Cajun ShrimpSerious Eats / Robby LozanoOne of the keys to great Cajun shrimp is making your own spice blend, which allows for better control over the flavors and heat level. Rather than merely tossing shrimp into a sauté pan with butter, garlic, and some premade "Cajun" seasoning, we prefer to dry-brine them with salt and baking soda first, which yields a plumper shrimp with a tender bite. Bronzing the shrimp over moderate heat also allows the sweet and delicate shrimp flavor to shine through the spices.
Tôm Rim (Vietnamese Braised Shrimp)Serious Eats / Vy TranThese plump, juicy shrimp are braised in a caramel-and–coconut water sauce that's boldly flavored with garlic, fish sauce, and chiles. Depending on your spice tolerance, you can either deseed the bird’s-eye chiles or leave them in before chopping—or add another chile for more heat. Be sure to serve the tôm rim with lots of rice to sop up all that deliciously sweet-savory sauce.
Quick Broiled Shrimp With Harissa and BeerSerious Eats / Vicky WasikPairing bitter, hoppy beer with spicy homemade harissa bumps up the already unbeatable combo of butter and shrimp with even more flavor. We keep the shell on to prevent the shrimp from overcooking under the broiler, yielding plump and juicy flesh. Preheating a sheet tray or cast iron also allows the shrimp to cook from both the top and the bottom. You'll want to serve this with plenty of crusty bread to soak up the spicy butter and beer sauce.
Ebi no Chiri-Sōsu (Japanese Shrimp in Chile Sauce)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezA staple of chuuka, or Chinese-Japanese cuisine, ebi no chirisōsu are plump, juicy shrimp enveloped in a sweet chile sauce, made from a combination of ketchup, Sichuan chile bean paste, garlic, sugar, rice wine vinegar, and sake. A potato starch slurry is added to thicken the sauce, producing a silky, glossy glaze that beautifully clings to the shrimp.
Goong Pad Nam Prik Pao (Thai Stir-Fried Shrimp With Chile Jam)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIf you have a jar of savory-sweet nam prik pao, or Thai chile jam, hanging out in your fridge, you can bang out this quick stir-fry of shrimp, oyster mushrooms, and long beans in under 30 minutes. Thai oyster sauce and light soy sauce amplify the roasted chile paste's savory and salty notes, while a touch of tamarind paste and sugar round things out. Like most saucy and spicy stir-fries, this dish should be served with steamed rice.
Shrimp Fra Diavolo (Shrimp and Pasta with Spicy Tomato Sauce)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikBottled clam juice and the simple technique of sautéing shrimp shells in oil to extract their flavor imbues this spicy Italian-American classic with rich shellfish flavor. Briefly marinating shrimp with baking soda guarantees an extra snappy texture, and plenty of red pepper flakes make this dish devilishly spicy.
Crispy Kimchi Pancakes With ShrimpSerious Eats / Emily and Matt CliftonPacked with bits of spicy kimchi and fresh plump shrimp, these crispy kimchi pancakes, or jeon, are perfect as an appetizer, snack, or light dinner. Adding kimchi brine to the batter lends an extra spicy-tart flavor.
Serious Eats / Victor ProtasioAs a food writer and vegetable lover, the often bandied-about phrase "You won't miss the meat!" rankles me. With a well made vegetarian meal, why would I miss the meat? But even I understand that a pot pie without its typical star ingredient—chicken—might seem a little lacking, abstemious, and just kind of a bummer. Could a vegetarian pot pie possibly be as satisfying, comforting, and flavorful as the classic?
The answer—in the form of this savory, hearty, and satisfying mushroom pot pie created by our Birmingham-based test kitchen colleague Renu Dhar—is 1,000% yes. The recipe builds on deeply savory and umami-rich ingredients to create a hearty and creamy filling of mushrooms, carrots, parsnips, pearl onions, fresh thyme, all topped with crispy and buttery puff pastry. Not only will you not miss the chicken, you, like me, may well prefer this vegetarian version.
In fact, as soon as I tasted this pot pie while visiting our Birmingham test kitchens, I knew what I wanted to make for my vegetarian friends this Thanksgiving. Not that I plan to wait until the holiday to make this beautiful pot pie—to draw on another food writing cliché, this is easy enough to make on a weeknight, requiring just 20 minutes of prep before it goes in the oven. Plus, it's versatile: You can bake it as one stunning centerpiece pot pie, or divide it into ramekins for individual servings. Read on for the techniques Renu used to make a chicken-free pot pie with all the stick-to-your-ribs goodness of the original.
Serious Eats / Victor ProtasioFour Techniques for Vegetarian Pot-Pie Success
Pick up some store-bought puff pastry. While you can certainly use a homemade crust if you'd like,we opted for store-bought puff pastry for this mushroom pot pie (as we did in our easy chicken pot pie). We went this route because we wanted to keep this recipe easy enough for a weeknight meal, and also because we feel that if you use an all-butter frozen puff pastry, such as Dufour, the results will still be excellent. Not only is this much quicker and easier, it also gives you a beautifully crispy, buttery topping that complements the creamy filling.
Use a variety of fresh mushrooms. This recipe calls for mixed fresh mushrooms, such as cremini, portobello, and shiitake. And while you certainly could make it with basic button mushrooms, using some of the mushrooms listed here gives the final dish an earthy, umami intensity that makes it really special. Using a variety of mushrooms also plays into our chicken-free strategy, providing a variety of textures and flavors similar to the way chicken does with its silky thigh meat, tender breast meat, and melting gelatin.
Serious Eats / Victor ProtasioWhile white button, cremini, and portobello are technically variants of the same mushroom, they have different textures and intensities of flavor: White button are the mildest, so we skip them here, while cremini are tender and juicy with a deep savory flavor, and portobellos are larger and meatier. Shiitakes have a profound umami and a silky texture when cooked. The mushrooms we suggested here also all hold their shape well after cooking and aren't prone to getting mushy or slimy. In addition to shiitake, cremini, and portobello, feel free to round out the mixture with other meaty and flavorful mushroom varieties you find at the market.
Pump up the mushroom flavor with dried porcini. To keep this pot pie vegetarian and to enhance the mushroom flavor, Renu makes a quick stock with dried porcini and stems from the fresh mushrooms that gets blended with milk and stirred into the filling mixture to amplify the flavor of the mushrooms and form a rich, creamy base.
This is a smart move that pays dividends: Instead of creating a mushroom broth that has had the solids strained out, she uses the natural fiber from the mushrooms to thicken the sauce when blended, building even more textural richness into the pot pie mixture while infusing every drop with deep mushroom flavor. "Using mushroom stems and blending them with porcini mushrooms creates the most pleasantly potent mushroom flavored sauce," Renu explains. "This sauce is the bones of the dish and possibly the hero without the cape!"
Stir in some miso paste. The umami is deepened with white miso paste—another great vegetarian flavor booster. "The white miso adds a savoriness that doesn’t compete with mushrooms but stays pleasantly in the background," Renu says.
Serious Eats / Victor ProtasioAdjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and preheat oven to 425°F (220℃). If using shiitake mushrooms, remove and discard stems; for portobello and cremini mushrooms remove and reserve stems, discarding any woody stems. Cut shiitake and portobello mushrooms into 1/2-inch pieces. Halve cremini mushrooms or quarter if larger than 1 1/2 inches wide.
Serious Eats / Victor ProtasioIn a medium bowl, toss mushrooms with oil until coated. Evenly divide between 2 large rimmed baking sheets and spread into an even layer. Roast mushrooms, rotating pans top to bottom halfway through, until lightly browned, about 20 minutes.
Serious Eats / Victor ProtasioMeanwhile, in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, bring 2 1/2 cups water, porcini mushrooms, and reserved cremini and portobello mushroom stems to a boil; reduce heat to medium, simmer mushrooms, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Pour mushroom mixture into a blender. Secure lid on blender, and remove center piece to allow steam to escape. Place a clean towel over opening, then process until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes; set aside.
Serious Eats / Victor ProtasioIn a 10-inch cast iron skillet, melt butter over medium heat, add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Add carrots and parsnips and cook, stirring occasionally, until carrots and parsnips are beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Stir in thyme, miso, oregano, salt, and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Sprinkle flour over vegetable mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until flour is lightly toasted, about 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Victor ProtasioGradually stir in blended mushroom mixture and milk until combined. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in roasted mushrooms; set aside.
Serious Eats / Victor ProtasioWorking on a lightly floured work surface, roll puff pastry sheet into an 11-inch square. Carefully place on top of hot mushroom filling; fold excess dough underneath itself and crimp as desired just below rim of skillet so it's flush with the skillet's edge. Using a pastry brush, lightly brush dough with egg wash.
Using a paring knife, lightly score the entire surface of the pastry in a diagonal crosshatch pattern. Make sure not to cut all the way through the dough. Cut five 1/4-inch wide steam vents into the dough, spread out evenly over the pie.
Serious Eats / Victor ProtasioPlace skillet on a large rimmed baking sheet. Bake at 425°F (220℃) on the lower-middle rack until pastry is puffed and golden and sauce is bubbly, about 25 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes before serving.
Serious Eats / Victor ProtasioRamekin Variation for Individual Pot PiesServes: 6 (serving size: 1 ramekin)
Prep: 20 min. Cook 55 min. Rest 5 min. Total 1 hour, 20 min.
Directions:
Prepare steps 1-4 as directed.
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Divide filling evenly between six (8-ounce) ramekins (about 3/4 cup each); set aside. Working on a lightly floured work surface, roll out puff pastry sheet into a 12-inch square. Cut six 5-inch circles. Place each pastry circle on top of hot mushroom filling in ramekins; fold excess dough under itself and crimp as desired just below rim of ramekin. Using a pastry brush, lightly brush top of each pastry with egg wash. Using a paring knife, lightly score top of pastry in a crosshatch pattern. Using the tip of the paring knife, cut three 1/4-inch holes on top to allow steam escape while baking.
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Place ramekins on a large rimmed baking sheet. Bake at 425°F in lower third until pastry is puffed and golden and sauce is bubbly, 15 to 20 minutes. Let sit for 5 minutes before serving.
Special EquipmentMedium saucepan, 2 large rimmed baking sheets, medium bowl, blender, 10-inch cast iron skillet, rolling pin, paring knife; for individual servings: 6 ramekins
Make-Ahead and StorageThe filling can be prepared through step 4 up to 3 days ahead. Store in an airtight non-reactive container in the refrigerator and bring to room temperature before heating through and topping with crust. If the mixture is too thick, add water, one tablespoon at a time, to loosen.
Store leftover pot pie in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat in the oven at 400°F(200°C) until filling is bubbly and heated through and top is crispy. (For a crispier topping, you can store the pastry "lid" separately from the filling, then reheat filling before topping with pastry and continue to warm until top is re-crisped.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI grew up in a home where rice was on the table every single night, and I have been cooking rice my entire adult life, often multiple times a week. And each time, I make it the exact same way: I wash the grains in water until it runs clear, strain the rice, then place it in a pot. I touch the top of the rice using my pointer finger and add just enough water to reach my first knuckle. This technique is widely referred to as the “knuckle method,” which many home cooks—particularly those of Asian descent, including myself—swear will yield the perfect ratio of water to rice, regardless of batch size, owner of finger, or size of pot. Every time.
“The knuckle method has always been foolproof,” food writer Jess Eng tells me. “I picked it up from my mom who picked it up from her mom.” Eng grew up watching her parents make rice using the knuckle method, and today she prepares rice the exact same way, though she’s unable to offer an explanation of why she thinks it works. Meredith Wong, a Chicago-based home cook whom I connected with over social media after putting out a request seeking knuckle-rice enthusiasts, says her late grandfather taught her the technique. “I can’t remember when he showed me, but I’ve used it as a guide since,” she says.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLike Eng and Wong, I learned to make rice by watching my parents and grandparents. I don’t remember when, exactly, they taught me, nor do I remember a time in my life when I didn’t know how to make rice. I’ve been doing it for so long that it feels deeply intuitive. With the knuckle method, I can make fluffy, tender grains in any pot and in any kitchen. But how does the technique actually work? And also, more critically: Does it work?
These questions first popped into my head when I watched my husband, who grew up in a household where his Scottish and Ashkenazi Jewish parents did not regularly cook rice, attempt to follow my knuckle-rice instructions. I showed him the way my parents taught me, confident his rice would come out as perfect as mine. He followed my directions to a T, but his grains came out mushy and overcooked. What had gone wrong, I wondered, and was it possible that the knuckle method wasn’t as foolproof as I thought? I decided to find out.
What Happens When You Cook Rice?In order to understand how the knuckle method works, we first need to understand a couple basic things about what happens when you cook rice. As the rice cooks, the grains absorb water and the starch inside swells and softens. But there’s only so much water rice can absorb before it reaches optimal gelatinization—any more and the rice blows out and turns to mush. “That ratio sits at around one part of water to one part of rice by volume,” writes Tim Chin in his basic white rice recipe.
This may strike readers who have cooked rice at least a few times in their lives as odd: Most recipes don't call for equal volumes of rice and water, they call for slightly more water than rice. Ratios vary, but roughly one-and-a-quarter cups of water per one cup of dried rice is common. The reason for this is evaporation. A 1:1 ratio of rice to water by volume may be ideal, but that's only true if none of the water escapes as steam. In the real world, since some amount of water boils off in a cloud of vapor, you have to add a little extra or you'll end up with too little water and grains of crunchy rice.
And here we get to another tricky detail: This extra amount of water that's needed when cooking rice—let's call it the evaporation quotient—does not scale proportionally as the batch size goes up. Meaning, you may need one-and-a-quarter cups of water to cook one cup of rice, but you don't need two-and-a-half cups of water to cook two cups of rice. That's because, given roughly similar pot sizes, the amount of water that evaporates is more or less the same no matter if you're cooking one, two, or three cups of rice; you'll always lose about one-quarter cup of water as steam.
Understanding the logic behind the knuckle method requires first understanding these basic facts of absorption and evaporation during the cooking of rice.
How Does the Knuckle Method Work?One of the main arguments for why the knuckle method works hinges on the idea that as the rice batch size goes up, the water scales up with it in a ratio of 1:1 by volume, but the evaporation quotient does not—it just gets added on top.
In a YouTube video, Julie Yu, a scientist at the San Francisco museum Exploratorium, tells viewers that when you put dry rice in a pot and add only enough water to just submerge the rice, you've more or less arrived at that basic, perfect 1:1 ratio of water to rice by volume. Meaning, the volume of all the space between the dry rice grains that is filled by the water is roughly equal to the volume of the dry rice itself. She then goes on to explain that by placing the tip of your index finger against the surface of the bed of rice and bringing the water up to that first knuckle, you are successfully measuring the evaporation quotient.
“Because the amount that you need for absorption scales [with] the amount of rice, but the amount that escapes by evaporation does not, a ratio method is going to cause you trouble when you get into larger and larger quantities of rice,” she says. And that, my friends, is why the knuckle method can work regardless of the batch size, whereas simply multiplying a base ratio does not.
According to Yu, the method is so dependable because the length of your index finger from tip to first knuckle just happens to be spot-on for measuring the evaporation quotient. But of course her point is not only that your finger is the perfect length for measuring the water to be evaporated, but that everyone's finger is the correct length for this. She claims, quite confidently, that the “first segment of adult-sized fingers are remarkably similar,” adding that if viewers didn’t believe her, we could measure for ourselves—which is exactly what I did.
The TestingThe theory behind the knuckle method makes sense: Volumes of water and rice scale in a 1:1 ratio, but the extra water needed to account for steam does not. But after watching my husband, I had doubts about how "foolproof" the method really was in practice. Are our fingers really similar enough in length to guarantee such consistent results? The good news is that this is easily measured with a ruler and calculated using basic geometry.
I decided to run two tests, one based solely on finger measurements and volume calculations, the second a more real-world examination of the knuckle rice method put into practice.
Test 1: Counting on FingersWith ruler in hand, I set off around the office, asking friends, colleagues, and strangers if I could measure their index fingers. (This elicited some strange looks—you’d be amazed how uncomfortable this can make some people.)
Soon, I had the measurements of the first phalanx (to use the anatomically correct term) of the index fingers of 19 people. Even in such a small sample size, I could see that not everyone's finger was the same length. In my survey, I documented a six millimeter range between the smallest finger segment (2.3 centimeters) and the largest segment (2.9 centimeters, belonging to our very own editorial director Daniel Gritzer). Since this was a survey of only 19 index fingers, one can safely assume that a larger number of measurements would have uncovered an even bigger range. But let's work with what we've got—let's say six millimeters is how much human index fingers vary when measured from the tip to the top to the knuckle (which I defined as the most pronounced crease on the palm-side of the finger).
The next question is: How much of a difference in water volume can a six millimeter difference in phalanx length make? Well, that's as simple as calculating the volume of a cylinder, because what is a pot if not a cylinder that's closed on one end and open on the other? I figured the most common pot size for most at-home batches of rice would be about three quarts. After looking at lots of 3-quart pots online I settled on 8 1/2 inches as a good average diameter, which any sane person would immediately convert to metric (216mm) before doing any math.
The question then becomes: What's the volume of a 216mm-wide pot for every one millimeter of height? Many readers may be struggling to remember their high school (middle school?) geometry formulas, so I'll remind you: The volume of a cylinder is calculated by multiplying pi by the square of the radius, and then multiplying that result by the height.
This is the math:
Serious EatsLet's just walk through the above in case it's causing the math-phobic among us mental paralysis.
- First we calculate the radius: The radius is half the length of diameter. The pot’s diameter is 216mm, so the radius is half that at 108mm.
- Then we multiply pi by the square of the radius: 108mm squared is 11,664 square millimeters, and we multiply that by 3.1416, getting 36,651.85 square millimeters.
- We multiply this result by the height: Multiplying 36,651.85 square millimeters by 1mm gives us a volume of 36,651.85 cubed millimeters.
- As a last step, let's convert those cubed millimeters into milliliters: This gets us a final volume of 36.65mL for every 1mm of height in a typical 3-quart pot.
Translated to teaspoons—because, yes, after the undeniable mathematical beauty of the metric system, we're gonna switch back to the inane (yet familiar!) chaos of US customary—that's about 7 teaspoons for every 1mm of pot height.
Now let's go back to the 6mm range I'd documented when measuring index finger segments: If every millimeter of water in a 3-quart pot holds about 7 teaspoons, then a 6mm range in finger segment length can alter the volume of water in a rice recipe by 42 teaspoons. That's more than 3/4 cup!
Let me spell that out: The natural variation in a human finger can change the amount of water added to the rice by more than 3/4 cup, which is a significant amount considering we only want about 1/4 cup of extra "evaporation quotient" water when cooking rice.
This is not good news for the claim that knuckle rice is a foolproof method. But this is also just based on finger measurements and calculations on paper. What happens when you look at the messiness of the real-world scenario in which one has to stick their finger into a pot and add water?
I tested that too.
Test 2: You Can Lead a Knuckle to Water…But Can It Make Good Rice?In this test, I asked a bunch of people to add water to one cup (200 grams) of dry jasmine rice in a 3-quart pot using the knuckle method, weighing how much water was added each time.
As you can see above, the most water added was 689 grams (almost three cups), and the least amount of water was 236 grams (about one cup). For comparison's sake, if we were working with a ratio of 1 1/4 cups water for 1 cup of rice, the goal would be 295g water here. While one person absolutely nailed it, a few came in under and many more added too much water—shockingly too much. But even if we remove the most extreme measurements from the top and bottom ends of the range, we're still looking at 639g on the high end and 259g on the low end, which is a huge range.
Even weirder, the amounts of water added don't seem to correlate with finger length in the ways we'd expect. Instead of the amount of water added going up as finger length increases, my data shows no clear correlation between finger length and water quantity.
What's up with that? Well, for starters, my sample size is small. Perhaps my data would be better with a hundred data points instead of the 12 I have here. Another possibility is that we didn't standardize the technique well enough across participants. I had told them to place their index finger against the bed of rice and pour water up to the first knuckle joint, but it's possible not everyone interpreted these instructions the same way. Maybe some allowed their fingers to sink down into the bed of rice, held their finger at an angle, and/or judged the "first knuckle" inconsistently (there are, after all, a lot of creases on the skin of our knuckles—who's to say where the line really is?).
Even if my data has a high degree of confounding factors, the test underscores a critical point: The knuckle rice method is meant to be foolproof, and yet it can easily be interpreted and applied differently with drastic consequences, and that's not even factoring in the guaranteed variation in water volume we would expect to see just from the differences in finger length.
Is the Knuckle Method Garbage?Though I’ve never been let down by the knuckle method, our test results show that, in reality, this method is not a consistent way to make rice. That’s not to say that the knuckle method doesn’t work; it likely works well for the people who are familiar with it, like those who grew up watching their family prepare rice this way or have done it so many times that they’ve developed an intuition for the right amount of water to use over time.
One of our contributors, Vy Tran, tells me that she uses the knuckle method (which she picked up from her mom) on a daily basis, but doesn’t think it’s consistent. “Once you figure out a certain water level and can eyeball it, it works well,” she says. “But usually different types of rice will need trial and error of how much water.”
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIt appears that the knuckle method works not because there’s something precise about it, but because the people who use it have developed a deep familiarity over time, becoming more and more attuned to the nuances of the method without realizing it's not just the method, but their experience, that makes it work. And so it was for the people they learned from, and the people the learned from, going back generations.
Even though I’m a baker and pastry chef by training and swear by the scale, I am still deeply devoted to the knuckle method. The fact that this method works for so many people—despite the huge variation in knuckle lengths and the amount of water used—suggests that practice does, indeed, make perfect. But it’s more than practice: It’s the embodiment of knowledge and experience one gains over time in the kitchen. There is an art to making a great pot of rice, one that is built on an intuitive feel learned by our hands by doing something hundreds, if not thousands, of times, often in ways we're not even conscious of. The knuckle method may not literally be the best way to cook rice, but it’s also undeniably the best way to cook rice.
So does the knuckle method work? It can—but not for the reasons everyone thinks.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreAs someone who worked in the coffee industry for over a decade, I’m often asked how people can improve the coffee they make at home. I always answer the same way: Grind whole-bean coffee right before brewing.
A quality coffee grinder is the most important investment you can make when building out your home coffee setup. It will let you grind beans to a consistent coarseness and make repeatedly great joe. As far as what grinder to get, the best of the best is the Baratza Virtuoso+. Serious Eats has recommended this model for about six years, and I myself have used the Virtuoso+ almost daily for three years. Here’s why.
Why It’s GreatThe primary objective of any coffee grinder is to grind beans to a uniform coarseness. If the grinds have some larger bits mixed with fine, powder-like pieces, this will result in uneven extraction and unbalanced and bitter flavors. A uniform grind ensures that every coffee particle brews in the same amount of time.
Using a Kruve sifter (shown here) was an easy way to evaluate the grind consistency of the Baratza.Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWhen I first used the Virtuoso+, I tested the grind size with a Kruve sifter to evaluate its uniformity. I was testing it against six other grinders at the time, and the Virtuoso+ delivered the best results. Years later, the grinder’s conical, stainless steel burrs are still sharp and yield consistent ground beans daily.
It’s Easy to Use and CleanYou just have to rotate the Virtuoso's hopper to adjust the grind setting.Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezUsing the Virtuoso+ really couldn’t be any simpler. Once the coffee beans are in the hopper, press a button and the grinder will run for a set amount of time—or, once running, you can press it again to stop it. (The power button doubles as a dial for tweaking the time.) To adjust the grind size, all you have to do is rotate the bean hopper to one of the 40 indexed settings. Everything is intuitive. The catch bin is also made of anti-static plastic, reducing the amount of grounds spewed onto the countertop.
Now, onto the second point: cleanup. Grinders require regular cleaning. Oils and fine particulates from grinding coffee can build up inside the grinder and turn rancid over time. Thankfully, the Virtuoso+’s hopper easily detaches, revealing the stainless steel burrs beneath it. The top level of burrs can be easily removed for cleaning. That gives you access to the bottom set of conical burrs, which you can quickly wipe down with a dry cloth or brush.
Build Quality and RepairsThe Virtuoso is easy to take apart and repair.Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezWith the Baratza Virtuoso+, you’re not only getting a high-performance machine but one that’s also built to last. Everything—including the plastic hopper, stainless steel burrs, and heavy base—is sturdy and fits together well.
It’s important to note that stainless steel burrs, like knives, will become more dull with use. Baratza’s grinders are built to be repairable and the company even sells replacement parts if you’d like to fix one yourself. My grinder is still performing well, but if anything were to go wrong, Baratza offers a repair service, too.
As someone who takes their morning coffee seriously, I really can’t recommend investing in a Baratza Virtuoso+ enough. It’s the perfect blend of high-performance precision and built-to-last sturdiness.
FAQsCan the Baratza Virtuoso grind espresso?At its finest settings, the Baratza Virtuoso+ can get close to the proper grind consistency for espresso, but for anyone serious about espresso, you’ll want to invest in a separate espresso grinder. Brewing espresso requires an extremely fine particle size and the ability to perfectly dial in each parameter to tweak variables like flow rate. A general-use coffee grinder like the Baratza Virtuoso+ is designed to grind more coarsely and doesn’t allow the user to zero in on the perfect, extra-fine grind for your portafilter and espresso machine.
How do you clean the Baratza Virtuoso?To clean the Baratza Virtuoso, first twist the hopper and lift it to remove it from the grinder. Beneath the hopper, the burrs can be easily removed for cleaning. To clean the burrs, wipe them down with a dry cloth or cleaning brush. To remove any built-up chaff or ground coffee from the grinder, you can also use a can of compressed air.
Why We’re the Experts* Dylan Ettinger is a Serious Eats contributor who specializes in coffee, spirits, cocktails, and barware. With over a decade of experience in the specialty coffee industry, he has spent the last four years testing and reviewing coffee grinders, espresso machines, pour-over cones, and other home coffee appliances for a variety of publications. * Dylan has tested the Baratza Virtuoso+ next to other coffee grinders and has used the grinder daily for over three years.
Serious EatsIf you've ever cooked a whole turkey for Thanksgiving or another holiday, you know how stressful dealing with a frozen turkey can be. While a frozen bird is typically the most widely available, convenient, and affordable option, having a still-frozen turkey on Thanksgiving morning is the stuff of nightmares for many. And not only do you have to thaw the thing—you also have to do it safely, lest you poison a dozen family members and friends. Fortunately, it's really not that hard to properly and safely defrost a turkey. For guidance, we spoke to two food safety experts and a chef to find out the best way to defrost turkey—and which methods home cooks should avoid.
Why It's Important to Defrost Turkey CorrectlyIn the US, Thanksgiving turkeys typically range from 12 to 16 pounds, with some even exceeding 20 pounds. Because of the bird’s large size, defrosting it well—and safely—can be challenging. Depending on the weight of your bird and the method you choose, it can take up to five days for your turkey to fully thaw. And though it may be tempting to let your turkey sit out at room temperature or in a bucket of warm water, this can result in uneven thawing, with some parts of the bird hitting the temperature danger zone (40 to 140ºF; 4.5 to 60ºC), the temperature at which harmful bacteria such as Salmonella, clostridium, or campylobacter can multiply quickly and increase your risk of food poisoning.
How you defrost your turkey matters, and to prevent foodborne illnesses, the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) has strict guidelines on how to safely thaw turkey. There are only three methods the organization recommends for defrosting turkey: in the refrigerator, in cold water, and in the microwave. Below, we'll explore each of these methods in detail so you can thaw your turkey safely and in a way that sets you up for cooking a juicy, succulent centerpiece of a bird.
How Long Does It Take to Defrost Turkey?The time it takes to defrost your turkey will depend on its size. The USDA estimates that you’ll need 24 hours in the fridge for every four to five pounds of turkey you’re defrosting, but many factors can impact thawing time, including the temperature of your fridge and how crowded the fridge is. Beyond the turkey’s size, the cut and shape of your turkey will also impact how long it takes to defrost. Jessica Pryles, chef and author of Hardcore Carnivore, says a whole turkey is essentially a “big, round, frozen ball,” and its density means it’s not conducive to quick defrosting. While not commonly found at traditional grocery stores, spatchcocked turkeys will both freeze and defrost faster than an intact bird. Whole turkeys that have been separated into parts and then frozen flat will also thaw faster than a whole bird.
To give yourself plenty of time to properly thaw and brine your turkey, it’s best to begin defrosting the bird at least five days before you plan to cook and serve it. (As Kenji has noted previously, there’s no need to brine birds that are labeled as kosher, enhanced, or self-basting, as these have already been treated with salt.)
Getty Images / PhotosiberThe Most Common Methods for Thawing TurkeyHow to Defrost Turkey in the RefrigeratorAccording to Meredith Carothers, a food safety specialist with the USDA, and Catherine Nettles Cutter, a professor and food safety specialist in Penn State University’s food science department, defrosting your turkey in the fridge is the best way to thaw it. “It's the easiest and the safest,” says Carothers, who explains that a fridge set to maintain a temperature below 40ºF (4ºC) ensures that your turkey will never hit the danger zone, reducing the risk of food-borne pathogens.
To thaw your turkey in the fridge, Carothers and Cutter recommend keeping your turkey wrapped and storing it on a large platter or tray, such as a rimmed sheet pan, to collect any juices that may leak. You’ll also want to place it at the lowest possible point in your fridge to keep any rogue raw poultry juices not caught by the platter from contaminating anything else in your fridge.
This method is the only one the USDA recommends using if you plan on dry brining your turkey, as the other two USDA-approved methods—thawing in the microwave and in cold water—are considered “rapid” and require you to cook the bird immediately after it thaws. Thawing in the fridge comes with two trade-offs, though: time and space. A 20-pound bird will need about five days to defrost, taking up precious fridge space you could otherwise use to store other Thanksgiving ingredients. Still, it’s the most hands-off method and is the safest approach, as it is the only one that guarantees your turkey will be held at a food-safe temperature the entire time it thaws. (We recommend using a refrigerator thermometer to ensure your fridge is at the right temperature.)
TL;DR: Defrosting turkey in the fridge is the safest and most hands-off method, and is the only USDA-recommended method if you plan on dry brining your turkey. It is also the slowest method and requires you to have significant fridge space.
How to Defrost a Turkey in Cold WaterIf you’re running behind schedule and need to speed up the defrosting time of your bird, submerging it in cool water will do the trick. (We recommend keeping the turkey in its original packaging to prevent the meat from becoming waterlogged.) With this method, it takes about 30 minutes to defrost per pound of turkey, Pryles says. A 10-pound bird will defrost in about five hours, rather than the two to three days it would require in the fridge.
Because cold water conducts heat better than air, this method is faster than thawing in the fridge. This method, however, is a bit more hands-on than thawing turkey in the fridge. As I wrote in my guide to defrosting chicken, the USDA says this method is fine as long as your tap releases water in the 55 to 65ºF (12.7 to 18.3ºC) range. You’ll also have to change the water every 30 minutes or so to ensure the water remains in the recommended range; as the frozen turkey defrosts, the water around it becomes cooler, and eventually becomes cold enough to prevent the bird from adequately thawing.
The other problem with this method is finding a container large enough to hold your turkey. Kenji has recommended using a large cooler or tub and changing out the water every hour or so. A cooler, Pryles says, will also help keep the temperature more consistent and potentially reduce the number of times you need to refill it. Many coolers have spigots at the bottom, making it easy to drain when you’re done defrosting. If you don’t have a large enough cooler, Pryles suggests using a five-gallon bucket. “You just want to make sure that there's plenty of room between the actual turkey and the side of the bucket so it can actually be immersed in the cold water,” she says, which will help thaw the bird evenly.
If you have neither a cooler or five-gallon bucket, defrosting your turkey in a clean kitchen sink or even your bathtub is also an option. If you plan on defrosting your turkey in the sink or tub, be sure to thoroughly clean them to prevent any dirt, bacteria, or dish detergent and residues from bathing or cleaning products from contaminating your poultry. (Although we recommend keeping your turkey in the packaging, there is a chance of it being breached.)
Because defrosting via cold water is considered a rapid-defrost method, the USDA recommends you cook food defrosted this way immediately once it's thawed, which unfortunately means you won’t be able to dry brine a turkey defrosted this way.
TL;DR: Defrosting a turkey in cold water is faster than thawing in the fridge, but it is slightly more hands-on as it requires you to change the water frequently to maintain a temperature of 40ºF (4ºC) or below. You will also need a large vessel, such as a cooler or five-gallon bucket, for thawing the turkey. A turkey defrosted this way must be cooked immediately after thawing, which means you won’t be able to dry brine it.
What About Defrosting a Turkey in the Microwave?Despite being endorsed by the USDA, defrosting a whole turkey in the microwave is simply not realistic for most people, as most turkeys are too big to fit in a standard microwave. This method is more suitable for thawing smaller cuts like drumsticks or wings quickly, though we do not recommend it unless it is the only option available. As I found in my research and testing on how to best defrost chicken, this method results in unevenly thawed meat; because the microwave jumpstarts the cooking process, the outer edges of the poultry may be fully cooked by the time the center of the bird is defrosted. The texture of the meat is also dry and unpleasant to eat.
If you insist on thawing cuts of turkey in the microwave, the USDA recommends using your microwave’s poultry defrost setting to do so, and planning on it taking about six minutes per pound. You should also rotate and flip the pieces throughout the process to make sure it’s defrosting evenly. Because this is another rapid defrosting method, the turkey should be cooked immediately after it has thawed.
TL;DR: Most turkeys are too big to fit in a standard microwave; this method is best for thawing smaller cuts of turkey like thighs or wings. Turkey defrosted this way will have a drier texture, and we do not recommend using this method unless it is the only one available. Because the microwave is a rapid defrosting method, the turkey must be cooked immediately after it has thawed.
Why You Should Never Defrost a Turkey at Room TemperatureLeaving a whole frozen turkey out at room temperature is the riskiest defrosting method, and the USDA does not recommend thawing turkey this way, nor do we. Think about it: Even weeknight-friendly cuts of poultry like chicken breasts, which typically weigh about one to two pounds, can take several hours to thaw at room temperature. A whole turkey—which is more than triple the size of those cuts—will take much longer. As the turkey sits at room temperature, its exterior will thaw first, and likely hit the temperature danger zone while the interior has yet to fully thaw, making it prone to bacterial growth.
Pryles notes that if you live in a cold climate where the outside temperature is consistently below 40ºF (4ºC), you could safely defrost the turkey outside in your yard or your porch. The USDA, however, does not recommend thawing turkey this way, regardless of the outside temperature. If the turkey happens to be in direct sunlight or if the temperature fluctuates throughout the day above 40ºF (4ºC), Carothers says, you’re putting your guests at risk. She also warns that a porch isn’t as sterilized as your kitchen, and the thawing turkey could attract unwanted Thanksgiving guests in the form of local wildlife and neighborhood pets. For those reasons, we don’t recommend this method either.
TL;DR: Thawing your turkey at room temperature is the riskiest defrosting method. We do not recommend using this method.
Can You Cook Frozen Turkey?Unless you are deep-frying your turkey—in which case the bird needs to be 100% thawed and thoroughly dried before taking a dip in the oil—you can technically cook a turkey from frozen and it will still be food safe according to the USDA. From a culinary standpoint, we don’t recommend it; a bird you’ve thawed in the fridge and dry brined is always going to be more flavorful and juicy. But if it’s Thanksgiving day and your turkey is still a block of ice and cooking it frozen is the only option left, you can, indeed, do this. Just keep in mind that a frozen turkey will take at least 50% longer to cook than a thawed turkey, and just tossing a frozen bird in the oven will certainly not result in a perfectly cooked, moist bird with crisp skin. We aren’t going to offer instructions for it here, but you can head on over to Thermoworks, where there is a thorough guide on how to cook a frozen turkey.
The TakeawayFor defrosting a whole turkey, our top choice is the refrigerator. Be sure to start defrosting at least five days before you plan on cooking the turkey, and calculate that it will need 24 hours in the fridge for every four to five pounds of turkey you’re defrosting, possibly longer. Be sure to build in time for prep methods, like dry brining.
Serious Eats / Samantha PriestleyWhen I got divorced one of my main practical struggles was opening jars. When I couldn't open a jar, I'd ask my husband to have a go.
So, I bought a heavy-duty bottle and jar opener and it quite literally changed my life. Gone were the days of struggling, using towels, and running hot water over the jar lid to loosen the lid. My new handy jar opener did the trick for me every time—without asking for help. I've now been using it for years.
How Do You Open a Stuck Jar with a Jar Opener?If you haven’t encountered one of these life-changing tools before, you're in for a treat. Jar openers are helpful for anyone who gets challenged by a sticky jar now and then (so, all of us). As well as effortlessly cracking open lids like some kind of magician, this tool also has a bottle opener at the top.
My jar opener is special because it’s made from stainless steel, and it's much better than plastic jar openers. Plastic versions tend to be tapered in shape, beginning with the largest mouth at the top, and the smallest at the bottom. I’ve found that style much harder to grip, especially with larger jars. When a plastic jar opener is at its widest, the handle also opens, and I struggle to get my hands around it. My metal jar opener is so much better because the handle remains stable. It's easy to hold and twist, no matter what size jar you're opening.
A metal jar opener can handle many different size jars.Serious Eats / Samantha PriestleyThe only downside I’ve found is that sometimes I have a jar that doesn’t quite fit one of the three available sizes. When this happens, the jar opener’s mouth slides around the edges of the lid and scores it, rather than gripping and opening it. In that case, the opener helps me loosen the lid enough to open it with my hands. Once or twice I’ve needed to run the jar under hot water and wrestle with a kitchen towel around the lid to open it. I’d say that 99% of the time the jar opener does open the jar—pretty impressive stats. I can open chunky jars of gherkins, slender jars of olives, thin things of hot sauce, and anything else with a stubborn lid.
FAQs How do you use a jar opener?To use a jar opener, choose the right size of opener for the jar (there are usually three sizes) and fit it around the jar lid firmly. Then, twist as you would with your hands, pulling the jar lid away from the jar. The jar lid should pop right off.
What’s the difference between a jar opener and a can opener?A jar opener is for opening jars of jam, pickles, cooking sauces, etc., and it can also be used to open bottles of soda or condiments. A can opener is a mechanical opener, used to open canned foods, that cuts into the can lid and opens it safely. We reviewed can openers here.
Why We’re the Experts* Samantha Priestley is a freelance writer who has been writing for Serious Eats since 2022. * She writes features, including A Tale of Two Cream Teas, as well as reviews. * Her work has also appeared in The Good Food Guide, Reader’s Digest, Food52, Speciality Food Magazine, and more.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWhen I lived in Britain as a college student, my friends and I had weekly dessert potlucks where we gathered to watch new episodes of the Great British Baking Show. As we crowded around a small laptop screen, we tucked into slices of banoffee pie, spoonfuls of trifle, and tiny little cream puffs. We chuckled and groaned as contestants dropped their cakes on the floor or presented pies with soggy bottoms to the judges. At the end of the evening, we all mused on what we’d bake next week—and whether any of us had the chops to compete on the show.
Though I no longer live in the UK, I still enthusiastically welcome each new episode of the Great British Baking Show by whipping up an assortment of baked goods for myself and, occasionally, my neighbors. To celebrate the arrival of the show’s 12th season, we put together a list of fun bakes—including tender shortbread and an airy genoise sponge—that you can make from the comfort of your own home. So get your mixer out, have your spatula at the ready, and preheat those ovens. Ready…set…bake!
Millionaire’s ShortbreadSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn the US, millionaire’s shortbread is often disappointing and overly sweet. I took it upon myself to create the best possible homemade version—one with a tender, crumbly shortbread base and a deeply flavored, just-salty-enough butterscotch filling. A topping of dark chocolate is just bittersweet enough to prevent it from being unbearably cloying.
Old-Fashioned Jelly RollVicky WasikA rose by any other name would smell as sweet, and a Swiss roll by any other name—be it a jelly roll or roulade—would be just as delicious. Stella Parks’ take on this pretty dessert produces a light, airy cake that remains pliable, making it easy to roll.
Victoria SpongeSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis classic British dessert consists of strawberry jam and whipped cream between two tender sponge cakes lightly dusted with powdered sugar. Also known as the Victoria sandwich, the cake is named after Queen Victoria, who reportedly enjoyed the dessert daily as part of her afternoon tea.
Cream PuffsVicky WasikComposed of just two versatile elements—pâte à choux and the filling of your choice—these cream puffs are a cinch to whip up. For a satisfying dessert, fill them with pastry cream, whipped cream, or crème légère, or turn them into profiteroles by sandwiching them with ice cream.
Shortbread CookiesSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThese shortbread cookies are rich and buttery, with a tender, crumbly texture that melts in your mouth. With a dough that comes together in one bowl and takes just five minutes to make, this recipe is easy as can be.
Sticky Toffee PuddingSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezDrenched in a sumptuous sauce of butter and brown sugar, sticky toffee pudding is a beloved British cake that gets its deep caramel notes from dates. Though some British establishments will steam it for a slightly softer and moister version, most iterations of the dessert today, including ours, are baked.
Eton MessSerious Eats/Amanda SuarezWith heaps of whipped cream, ripe berries, and crisp meringues that are just beginning to soften, Eton mess is everything you want in a light dessert. And if you don’t feel like making your meringues from scratch, store-bought is just fine.
Mixed Berry TrifleSerious Eats / Amanda Suarez“The trifle was once considered an unfashionable cliché,” writes contributor Nicola Lamb, “but thanks to its irresistible retro charm, the dessert has firmly re-established its place as a party classic across the UK.” It’s a fun and delicious combination of wobbly fruit jelly, genoise sponge cake, crème légère, and whipped cream layered in a giant glass bowl. Perfectly suited for enjoying while you watch the Great British Baking Show, if we do say so ourselves.
5-Ingredient British Banoffee PieSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezOur minimal-effort take on this classic recipe requires nothing more than some butter, a packet of cookies (or biscuits, in British parlance), a can of sweetened condensed milk, several bananas, and a carton of heavy cream—and a block of chocolate for shaving on top, if you’re feeling fancy.
Genoise SpongeSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis elegant, airy cake is the foundation for many desserts, and it frequently makes an appearance on the Great British Baking Show, where bakers carefully fold their flour into whipped eggs and sugar to avoid deflating the fragile batter. Have no fear, though: Our straightforward recipe is foolproof and produces a light, tender cake with the finest crumb possible.
Classic ÉclairsVicky WasikPoking holes in éclairs after they’ve baked allows steam to escape and prevents the pastries from softening. There are no soggy bottoms here—just delightfully crisp pâte à choux filled with pastry cream and glazed with bittersweet dark chocolate.
Chocolate-Covered Digestive BiscuitsVicky WasikIn her rendition of this popular British snack, Stella uses a mix of whole wheat and all-purpose flours to create flavorful biscuits with just the right amount of crunch. Topped with a thick layer of milk or dark chocolate, they’re delicious eaten on their own—or dipped into a cup of tea.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeWhen sunlight is in short supply, winds are biting, and spirits are flagging, a batch of hearty homemade chicken soup can provide a much needed morale boost. For me, homemade chicken soup is a vital self-care strategy during chilly fall and winter months. One of my favorite new spins on a classic chicken soup is this deeply savory and earthy chicken and wild rice soup recipe from our test kitchen recipe developer Liv Dansky. Dansky simmered batch after batch of chicken and wild rice soup to come up with this ultimate home cooked version.
The foundation of this soup is homemade stock, which relies on bone-in chicken thighs for a richness and body. The broth is then boosted with celery, carrots, fennel, garlic, and thyme before earthy wild rice is added and simmered until the grains are cracked open and tender. The simmered chicken thighs are shredded and folded back into the soup before it’s finished with a bit of heavy cream for body and lemon juice and zest for brightness It’s rich, nutty, and bright all at the same time—way more interesting than a basic chicken soup.
What Is Wild Rice?Our editorial director Daniel Gritzer points out in his wild rice salad recipe that while many people are quick to note that wild rice isn’t real rice, the truth is that both "real" rice—i.e. the Asian cereal we call rice—and wild rice are the grains of aquatic grasses. The shortest answer for how wild rice is different from what we normally call rice (which includes all forms of rice, including white and brown rices) is that wild rice is a cereal native to the Americas and belongs to the genus Zizania in the family of grasses named Poaceae. Asian rice, on the other hand, is native to Asia (or, at least, it was domesticated in Asia), and belongs to the genus Oryza, which is also in the family Poaceae. They're both grains from plants that belong to the same family of grasses. Wild rice was historically and remains a critically important grain for many Native American and indigenous communities, particularly ones in the Midwestern United States and in Canada.
Beyond these geographical and biological differences, wild rice’s firm texture, nutty flavor, the appearance, with its long, black grains, set it apart from its white and brown counterparts. Its signature firm chewy texture is due to its intact bran layer and the way it's processed through parching. Parching is the process of drying the grains over a fire and it gives wild rice its signature caramellic, nutty, and smoky aromas. This process makes the hull more brittle and dry enough for long term storage. The resulting thick hull and rigid texture mean that wild rice requires a longer cooking period than white and brown rices. With its subtle floral, earthy, nutty flavor, wild rice is wonderful on its own as a simple side dish, in pilafs, salads, and dressings, and—of course—simmered in soups, as in this chicken and wild rice soup.
How to Guarantee a Hearty Chicken and Wild Rice SoupUse bone-in chicken thighs for a rich homemade stock. Skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs provide enough fat and flavor for a rich homemade stock but they're easier to work with than a whole chicken. The thighs provide ample flavor for the broth, and the simmered meat is also shredded and folded back into the soup for substance before serving.
Add some aromatics.Simple aromatics like celery, carrot, leek, and thyme further infuse the broth with flavor. If you don’t have a leek, you can substitute with 1 large onion, peeled and diced.
Cook the wild rice in the stock. Instead of cooking the wild rice separately and adding it to the finished soup, simmering the wild rice directly in the prepared stock infuses a deeper, savory flavor into the grains. Cook the grains until swelled and cracked; this is when they have what I find to be the most pleasant chew; tender, but still with a bit of its signature toothsomeness.
Add baking soda to tenderize the wild rice. Due to its thick hull and firm texture, wild rice can take a very long time to cook until tender. One way to speed up the cooking process and to guarantee the grains soften is to add a small amount of baking soda to the soup as the grains simmer. Baking soda will slightly elevate the pH, and in a high-pH cooking environment pectin (the polysaccharide found in the cell walls of plants) breaks down and dissolves more quickly, leading to softer textures as the cell walls fall apart more readily. While softer, mushier vegetables might be unwanted in other cooking applications, for tenderizing the fibrous and hard wild rice, it’s a welcome addition. Just a small amount is added to ensure the flavor is not altered by it. We do not recommend adding more than the listed amount of baking soda to the recipe, as too much can make the soup bitter. If you prefer, you can omit the baking soda, just note that it will take 15 to 30 minutes longer to cook the rice.
Finish with cream. The homemade stock combined with the wild rice, chicken, and aromatics build a rich and hearty soup, but to turn it into a true stick-to-your-ribs meal, Dansky finishes the soup with a half cup of heavy cream. Make sure to add the heavy cream off the heat after the soup has finished cooking to ensure the cream doesn't split when you add it. The cream adds body to the soup, while a hint of lemon from juice and zest balances its richness.
For the Chicken Stock: In a large soup pot or Dutch oven, combine chicken, water, celery, carrots, leek, salt, and thyme sprigs. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer, adjusting head as needed to maintain gentle simmer, until chicken is cooked through and tender, about 40 minutes.
Using tongs, carefully remove chicken from pot and transfer to a medium bowl. Let chicken sit until cool enough to handle, about 5 minutes. Discard skin and finely shred meat. Set shredded meat aside and return bones to pot with stock. Continue to simmer until stock is flavorful and rich, 30 to 40 minutes.
Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain stock into a heatproof bowl or large measuring cup. Whip pot dry. Discard solids and use a ladle or large spoon to skim off any fat on surface of the stock. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeFor the Soup: In the now-empty large soup pot or Dutch oven, melt butter over medium heat. Add celery, carrots, fennel, salt, and pepper and cook, stirring often, until vegetables are softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in garlic and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeSprinkle flour over vegetables; cook, stirring frequently, until evenly coated and flour begins to stick to bottom, about 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeSlowly pour in the reserved chicken stock, whisking until the flour is fully incorporated. Stir in the rice and baking soda, if using, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until flavors meld and wild rice has split open and is tender but still retains a bit of chew, 40 to 50 minutes. Return shredded chicken to soup and simmer until heated through, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in heavy cream, lemon zest, and lemon juice.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeDivide soup evenly among serving bowls and top with reserved celery leaves.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeSpecial EquipmentLarge soup pot or Dutch oven, tongs, fine-mesh strainer
Make-Ahead and StorageThe stock can be made, strained, and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days, or frozen for up to 3 months. Shred the chicken and refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 4 days.
Allow soup to cool to room temperature before storing in an airtight container. The soup can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. To reheat, microwave or simmer in a saucepan until warmed through. Avoid bringing to a rapid boil, to ensure the cream does not separate.
The soup can be frozen in an airtight container for up to 3 months. To defrost, thaw soup in fridge overnight before reheating in the microwave or on the stove until warmed through.
Serious Eats / An UongAs cast iron skillet aficionados, we knew we had to put Bobby Flay’s new cast iron skillet to the test when we heard he was launching one in collaboration with GreenPan. Part of GreenPan’s first-ever cast iron cookware line, the skillet comes in 10-inch and 12-inch sizes. Throughout weeks of everyday use, the skillet adequately maintained and distributed heat, and while it can’t top our favorite Lodge cast iron skillet, it’s a good budget option at $30 if you want a pan with sloped sides for easy stirring.
The TestsSerious Eats / An Uong Heat Conduction Test: We set the 10-inch skillet on medium heat and used an infrared thermometer to take the temperature of the cooking surface (left, center, and right). We measured the temperature in 30-second increments for two minutes to see how quickly (and evenly) the pan heated up. * Fried Egg Test: We cooked an over-easy fried egg on the skillet to see how easily the egg released from the pan. * Tofu Steak Test: We seared a cut of tofu on the skillet and examined how well it browned. * Cornbread Test:* We baked cornbread in the skillet and noted how evenly it cooked.
What We LearnedIt Fried, Seared, and Baked Without TroubleWith just a tad of neutral oil, the pan released eggs beautifully. We didn’t have to scrape any bits off after cooking and the eggs had a nice, crispy bottom. When it came to searing a cut of tofu, the pan gave the tofu a beautiful golden crust that came away easily from the cooking surface. When we added a bit of soy sauce to the tofu, it caramelized nicely and didn’t stick to the pan.
Serious Eats / An UongIt Heats Up Quickly, But Not EvenlyWhen testing the pan to see how quickly it could heat up, we found that the center went from 80°F to 282°F within a minute and reached 453°F in two minutes. However, as we measured away from the center, we saw that it was on average over 50°F cooler towards the edges of the pan.
Serious Eats / An UongIt Was Awkward to ManeuverUndoubtedly, Bobby Flay’s cast iron skillet has a modern look. The clean lines are easy on the eyes, but hard on the hands. When it came to moving the skillet around the stovetop, the sharply angled handle, which is narrower than most, made it difficult to get a stable grip. Plus, at six pounds, it's quite a bit heavier than other pans we've tested. Thankfully, the helper handle made carrying it a bit easier.
The VerdictBobby Flay GreenPan 10-Inch Cast Iron SkilletGreenPanBobby Flay’s new cast iron skillet from GreenPan gets the job done. It releases fried eggs without a hitch and bakes golden brown cornbread. It performed well in all of our cooking and heating tests, but fell short when it came to comfortability and maneuverability. It’s a great budget option if you like sloped sides for easy stirring, but we still recommend our longtime favorite from Lodge, which is usually on sale for around $20 anyway.
Key Specs Weight: 6 pounds * Diamater: 10 inches * Pre-seasoned: Yes * Helper handle: Yes * Cleaning:* Hand-wash, dry, and rub with high smoke point, neutral oil
FAQsWhat is the best cast iron skillet?We’ve recommended the Lodge cast iron skillet for years, through numerous rounds of testing.
Is cast iron cookware hard to maintain?We have several guides on how to restore and maintain cast iron cookware so that it lasts you years.
What other cast iron cookware should I look into?We have guides on our favorite cast iron grill pans, enameled cast iron skillets, Dutch ovens, braisers, and more.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * An has been cooking with cast iron for years and continues to grow her cast iron cookware collection.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIt's rare to find mint chutney without its partner in crime, sweet-and-sour tamarind chutney. Store-bought and restaurant versions are often sickly-sweet, loaded with corn syrup and sugar. Instead, my homemade chutney recipe gets its body and mellow sweetness from chewy dates and earthy palm sugar.
Tamarind can be found in many forms, from jarred concentrates to dried whole pods. Here, I've used seedless tamarind paste, which gives all the flavor of the fresh pods without any of the fuss. A quick steep in hot water softens the dates and tamarind and melts the palm sugar, readying it all to be blended into a smooth chutney.
In a small saucepan, combine dates, tamarind paste, ginger powder, chile powder, sugar, and 3/4 cup (175ml) water and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and set aside, covered, for 10 minutes to soften the tamarind paste and dates.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikUsing a blender, purée until smooth , scraping down the sides of blender jar as needed(if chutney is too thick, add 1 tablespoon of hot water at a time to reach desired consistency), then pass through a fine-mesh strainer to remove any fibrous bits. Store in an airtight container.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikSpecial EquipmentFine mesh strainer
NotesKashmiri red chile powder is mild and fruity. If you cannot find it and wish to substitute cayenne pepper, be sure to cut the amount used in the recipe by half.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe chutney can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
Read More* Papri Chaat (Indian Street Snack With Potato, Chickpeas, and Chutneys) Recipe * A Guide to the Essential Street Food of India
Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltYou know that feeling you get when your mom tells you to do one thing and your dad tells you to do the opposite, so you end up doing neither?
If you've followed my work for a while or have read my book, you'll know that I'm a big fan of resting meat in order to help it retain juices as you eat it. You'll also know that I'm a big fan of Meathead Goldwyn, author of the best book around on the science of barbecue and grilling and the founder of AmazingRibs.com.
And finally, if you read Meathead's work, you'll know that he is a vocal advocate of not resting your meat, claiming that by doing so, you end up losing the wonderful crisp crust of a well-seared steak or chop.
So where does that leave us? Is it better to rest steak or not? Do you pick sides, or do you hem and haw so long that your steak gets cold enough to not be worth eating anymore? And who's the mom and who's the dad in this situation, anyway?
What if I told you that there's a way to get the best of both worlds? To get perfectly rested, juicy, tender meat with a crispy, crackly, straight-off-the-fire crust? There is a way to do it, and it's gonna save this family even if it destroys it.
If you want to cut straight to the chase, jump to the bottom of this article. But if you want a little more detail first, let's quickly recap some of the science here.
Why I Rest My SteakSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThere's no question that resting meat helps it to retain juices, though the exact degree to which it does so is up for debate. I've tested dozens of steaks over the years, and I've found significant variation.
Sometimes even a well-rested steak will lose juices when you cut into it. Sometimes a completely un-rested steak won't spill a drop. But as a general rule, resting meat for about one-third of its total cooking time guarantees that more juices will stay inside than on your cutting board or plate. This is a good thing in my book (literally).
The exact mechanism by which this happens is also up for debate. Unless you're using certain more modern techniques (like sous vide or the reverse sear), cooking a piece of meat invariably produces a temperature gradient: The meat will be coolest at the center and increasingly hot toward the edges.
The old theories say that this temperature gradient causes juices to get trapped under pressure in the cooler parts near the center of the meat, which means they're forced out when you cut into it, much like the water wrung out of a sponge. Nowadays, most folks agree that this is probably not what's happening.
More likely is the simpler theory I first read about in Modernist Cuisine: Hotter juices are thinner and thus run more freely. A steak fresh from the grill may be 120°F (49°C) in the center, where the juices are firmly in place, but it will also have much hotter areas—in the 185 to 200°F (85 to 93°C) range—where hot juices run freely. When that steak is allowed to rest, it reaches a stable equilibrium at a lower temperature—not as much hot juice leaking out.
Why Meathead Doesn't Rest His SteakSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltMeathead argues that the benefits of resting meat are overshadowed by its problems.
First of all, what's the big deal if your meat leaks juices onto the plate? Can't you always just sop them up with individual bites as you eat? Are you really gonna notice that one bite has a fraction of a teaspoon less juice?
He also explains that if you're not careful about the way you cook, resting can lead to excessive carryover cooking—the hot exterior of the steak essentially causes the cooler interior to overcook as the heat from the outside transfers inward. Over-resting will leave meat cold and fats rubbery.
Finally, and perhaps most importantly, resting causes a steak to lose what meat expert Adam Perry Lang describes as the "alive and snappy" crust. He has a good point.
There's something magical about that crackling, crispy blend of rendered fat, salt, and juices that's characteristic of a steak coming straight off the grill or a prime rib coming out of the oven. Even I admit that I always pick off a scrap or two of that crispy fat before setting the meat aside to rest, and no, that crust does not get better with time: It's as good as it's gonna get right when you pull it from the heat.
Meathead also makes another good point, which is that measurable juiciness within a steak is not the same as the juiciness we perceive in our mouths. The perception of juiciness involves a complex jumble of things, including how quickly juices are squeezed out of meat fibers by our teeth, how much saliva we produce, and the ratio of liquid fat to water-based liquid. You can make a strong argument that a delicious, crispy crust with liquid fat can get us salivating so much that the meat will taste juicier, even if you're actually leaving more juices behind on the plate.
The Fat-Flash Method for Finishing Your Steak (or, How to Get the Best of Both Worlds)So, if resting can deliver a measurably juicier interior, but eating immediately delivers better crust, the ideal steak would have both of those things, right? Thankfully, there's a pretty simple and obvious way to get there: Rest the steak, then re-crisp the crust just before eating.
Restaurant cooks may recognize this technique—it's what they do when they "flash" a steak or other cut of meat right before serving it. Usually, they use a cranked-up oven or salamander (a broiler on steroids) to rapidly reheat and crisp up the exterior, especially if the cut has been sitting around a few minutes longer than ideal. (Hey, slow appetizer-eaters: We're looking at you.) This kind of post-rest exposure to intense heat isn't intended to cook the meat more; it's simply meant to revive the exterior, get it sizzling again, as if it's just finished cooking.
If I'm grilling steaks or chops outdoors at home, I use a very similar approach: I cook the meat, then let it rest. Just before serving, I flash it on the hottest fire I can muster for about 15 seconds per side. If I'm cooking indoors, I sear the steak in hot fat, then let the meat rest on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet.
Then, just before serving, I reheat the fat and juices left over in the skillet until they're smoking-hot and pour them right over the steaks—you'll see them sizzle and sputter as they crisp up. This is similar to the restaurant hot-oven flash, but it works even better: Hot fat is a more efficient means of heat transfer than hot air, which means faster crisping with less chance of overcooking. It also adds a final shot of flavor to the surface of the steak.
This technique works with larger roasts as well, though, for best results, I suggest heating up some fresh oil or butter with some aromatics, like thyme or shallots, in a skillet until it's sizzling hot. That's because the drippings from roasts can often be too watery to effectively crisp the crust.
Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltWhat'd I tell ya? We can all be one big, happy, and well-fed family again...that is, if that guy Meathead ever lets someone else near the grill for a change. Some people. Sheesh.
Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltYou know that feeling you get when your mom tells you to do one thing and your dad tells you to do the opposite, so you end up doing neither?
If you've followed my work for a while or have read my book, you'll know that I'm a big fan of resting meat in order to help it retain juices as you eat it. You'll also know that I'm a big fan of Meathead Goldwyn, author of the best book around on the science of barbecue and grilling and the founder of AmazingRibs.com.
And finally, if you read Meathead's work, you'll know that he is a vocal advocate of not resting your meat, claiming that by doing so, you end up losing the wonderful crisp crust of a well-seared steak or chop.
So where does that leave us? Is it better to rest steak or not? Do you pick sides, or do you hem and haw so long that your steak gets cold enough to not be worth eating anymore? And who's the mom and who's the dad in this situation, anyway?
What if I told you that there's a way to get the best of both worlds? To get perfectly rested, juicy, tender meat with a crispy, crackly, straight-off-the-fire crust? There is a way to do it, and it's gonna save this family even if it destroys it.
If you want to cut straight to the chase, jump to the bottom of this article. But if you want a little more detail first, let's quickly recap some of the science here.
Why I Rest My SteakSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThere's no question that resting meat helps it to retain juices, though the exact degree to which it does so is up for debate. I've tested dozens of steaks over the years, and I've found significant variation.
Sometimes even a well-rested steak will lose juices when you cut into it. Sometimes a completely un-rested steak won't spill a drop. But as a general rule, resting meat for about one-third of its total cooking time guarantees that more juices will stay inside than on your cutting board or plate. This is a good thing in my book (literally).
The exact mechanism by which this happens is also up for debate. Unless you're using certain more modern techniques (like sous vide or the reverse sear), cooking a piece of meat invariably produces a temperature gradient: The meat will be coolest at the center and increasingly hot toward the edges.
The old theories say that this temperature gradient causes juices to get trapped under pressure in the cooler parts near the center of the meat, which means they're forced out when you cut into it, much like the water wrung out of a sponge. Nowadays, most folks agree that this is probably not what's happening.
More likely is the simpler theory I first read about in Modernist Cuisine: Hotter juices are thinner and thus run more freely. A steak fresh from the grill may be 120°F (49°C) in the center, where the juices are firmly in place, but it will also have much hotter areas—in the 185 to 200°F (85 to 93°C) range—where hot juices run freely. When that steak is allowed to rest, it reaches a stable equilibrium at a lower temperature—not as much hot juice leaking out.
Why Meathead Doesn't Rest His SteakSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltMeathead argues that the benefits of resting meat are overshadowed by its problems.
First of all, what's the big deal if your meat leaks juices onto the plate? Can't you always just sop them up with individual bites as you eat? Are you really gonna notice that one bite has a fraction of a teaspoon less juice?
He also explains that if you're not careful about the way you cook, resting can lead to excessive carryover cooking—the hot exterior of the steak essentially causes the cooler interior to overcook as the heat from the outside transfers inward. Over-resting will leave meat cold and fats rubbery.
Finally, and perhaps most importantly, resting causes a steak to lose what meat expert Adam Perry Lang describes as the "alive and snappy" crust. He has a good point.
There's something magical about that crackling, crispy blend of rendered fat, salt, and juices that's characteristic of a steak coming straight off the grill or a prime rib coming out of the oven. Even I admit that I always pick off a scrap or two of that crispy fat before setting the meat aside to rest, and no, that crust does not get better with time: It's as good as it's gonna get right when you pull it from the heat.
Meathead also makes another good point, which is that measurable juiciness within a steak is not the same as the juiciness we perceive in our mouths. The perception of juiciness involves a complex jumble of things, including how quickly juices are squeezed out of meat fibers by our teeth, how much saliva we produce, and the ratio of liquid fat to water-based liquid. You can make a strong argument that a delicious, crispy crust with liquid fat can get us salivating so much that the meat will taste juicier, even if you're actually leaving more juices behind on the plate.
The Fat-Flash Method for Finishing Your Steak (or, How to Get the Best of Both Worlds)So, if resting can deliver a measurably juicier interior, but eating immediately delivers better crust, the ideal steak would have both of those things, right? Thankfully, there's a pretty simple and obvious way to get there: Rest the steak, then re-crisp the crust just before eating.
Restaurant cooks may recognize this technique—it's very similar to what they do when they "flash" a steak or other cut of meat right before serving it. Usually, they use a cranked-up oven or salamander (a broiler on steroids) to rapidly reheat and crisp up the exterior, especially if the cut has been sitting around a few minutes longer than ideal. (Hey, slow appetizer-eaters: We're looking at you.) This kind of post-rest exposure to intense heat isn't intended to cook the meat more; it's simply meant to revive the exterior, get it sizzling again, as if it's just finished cooking.
If I'm grilling steaks or chops outdoors at home, I use a very similar approach: I cook the meat, then let it rest. Just before serving, I flash it on the hottest fire I can muster for about 15 seconds per side. If I'm cooking indoors, I sear the steak in hot fat, then let the meat rest on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet.
Then, just before serving, I reheat the fat and juices left over in the skillet until they're smoking-hot and pour them right over the steaks—you'll see them sizzle and sputter as they crisp up. This is similar to the restaurant hot-oven flash, but it works even better: Hot fat is a more efficient means of heat transfer than hot air, which means faster crisping with less chance of overcooking. It also adds a final shot of flavor to the surface of the steak.
This technique works with larger roasts as well, though, for best results, I suggest heating up some fresh oil or butter with some aromatics, like thyme or shallots, in a skillet until it's sizzling hot. That's because the drippings from roasts can often be too watery to effectively crisp the crust.
Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltWhat'd I tell ya? We can all be one big, happy, and well-fed family again...that is, if that guy Meathead ever lets someone else near the grill for a change. Some people. Sheesh.
Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltYou know that feeling you get when your mom tells you to do one thing and your dad tells you to do the opposite, so you end up doing neither?
If you've followed my work for a while or have read my book, you'll know that I'm a big fan of resting meat in order to help it retain juices as you eat it. You'll also know that I'm a big fan of Meathead Goldwyn, author of the best book around on the science of barbecue and grilling and the founder of AmazingRibs.com.
And finally, if you read Meathead's work, you'll know that he is a vocal advocate of not resting your meat, claiming that by doing so, you end up losing the wonderful crisp crust of a well-seared steak or chop.
So where does that leave us? Is it better to rest steak or not? Do you pick sides, or do you hem and haw so long that your steak gets cold enough to not be worth eating anymore? And who's the mom and who's the dad in this situation, anyway?
What if I told you that there's a way to get the best of both worlds? To get perfectly rested, juicy, tender meat with a crispy, crackly, straight-off-the-fire crust? There is a way to do it, and it's gonna save this family even if it destroys it.
If you want to cut straight to the chase, jump to the bottom of this article. But if you want a little more detail first, let's quickly recap some of the science here.
Why I Rest My SteakSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThere's no question that resting meat helps it to retain juices, though the exact degree to which it does so is up for debate. I've tested dozens of steaks over the years, and I've found significant variation.
Sometimes even a well-rested steak will lose juices when you cut into it. Sometimes a completely un-rested steak won't spill a drop. But as a general rule, resting meat for about one-third of its total cooking time guarantees that more juices will stay inside than on your cutting board or plate. This is a good thing in my book (literally).
The exact mechanism by which this happens is also up for debate. Unless you're using certain more modern techniques (like sous vide or the reverse sear), cooking a piece of meat invariably produces a temperature gradient: The meat will be coolest at the center and increasingly hot toward the edges.
The old theories say that this temperature gradient causes juices to get trapped under pressure in the cooler parts near the center of the meat, which means they're forced out when you cut into it, much like the water wrung out of a sponge. Nowadays, most folks agree that this is probably not what's happening.
More likely is the simpler theory I first read about in Modernist Cuisine: Hotter juices are thinner and thus run more freely. A steak fresh from the grill may be 120°F (49°C) in the center, where the juices are firmly in place, but it will also have much hotter areas—in the 185 to 200°F (85 to 93°C) range—where hot juices run freely. When that steak is allowed to rest, it reaches a stable equilibrium at a lower temperature—not as much hot juice leaking out.
Why Meathead Doesn't Rest His SteakSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltMeathead argues that the benefits of resting meat are overshadowed by its problems.
First of all, what's the big deal if your meat leaks juices onto the plate? Can't you always just sop them up with individual bites as you eat? Are you really gonna notice that one bite has a fraction of a teaspoon less juice?
He also explains that if you're not careful about the way you cook, resting can lead to excessive carryover cooking—the hot exterior of the steak essentially causes the cooler interior to overcook as the heat from the outside transfers inward. Over-resting will leave meat cold and fats rubbery.
Finally, and perhaps most importantly, resting causes a steak to lose what meat expert Adam Perry Lang describes as the "alive and snappy" crust. He has a good point.
There's something magical about that crackling, crispy blend of rendered fat, salt, and juices that's characteristic of a steak coming straight off the grill or a prime rib coming out of the oven. Even I admit that I always pick off a scrap or two of that crispy fat before setting the meat aside to rest, and no, that crust does not get better with time: It's as good as it's gonna get right when you pull it from the heat.
Meathead also makes another good point, which is that measurable juiciness within a steak is not the same as the juiciness we perceive in our mouths. The perception of juiciness involves a complex jumble of things, including how quickly juices are squeezed out of meat fibers by our teeth, how much saliva we produce, and the ratio of liquid fat to water-based liquid. You can make a strong argument that a delicious, crispy crust with liquid fat can get us salivating so much that the meat will taste juicier, even if you're actually leaving more juices behind on the plate.
The Fat-Flash Method for Finishing Your Steak (or, How to Get the Best of Both Worlds)So, if resting can deliver a measurably juicier interior, but eating immediately delivers better crust, the ideal steak would have both of those things, right? Thankfully, there's a pretty simple and obvious way to get there: Rest the steak, then re-crisp the crust just before eating.
Restaurant cooks may recognize this technique—it's very similar to what they do when they "flash" a steak or other cut of meat right before serving it. Usually, they use a cranked-up oven or salamander (a broiler on steroids) to rapidly reheat and crisp up the exterior, especially if the cut has been sitting around a few minutes longer than ideal. (Hey, slow appetizer-eaters: We're looking at you.) This kind of post-rest exposure to intense heat isn't intended to cook the meat more; it's simply meant to revive the exterior, get it sizzling again, as if it's just finished cooking.
If I'm grilling steaks or chops outdoors at home, I use a very similar approach: I cook the meat, then let it rest. Just before serving, I flash it on the hottest fire I can muster for about 15 seconds per side. If I'm cooking indoors, I sear the steak in hot fat, then let the meat rest on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet.
Then, just before serving, I reheat the fat and juices left over in the skillet until they're smoking-hot and pour them right over the steaks—you'll see them sizzle and sputter as they crisp up. This is similar to the restaurant hot-oven flash, but it works even better: Hot fat is a more efficient means of heat transfer than hot air, which means faster crisping with less chance of overcooking. It also adds a final shot of flavor to the surface of the steak.
This technique works with larger roasts as well, though, for best results, I suggest heating up some fresh oil or butter with some aromatics, like thyme or shallots, in a skillet until it's sizzling hot. That's because the drippings from roasts can often be too watery to effectively crisp the crust.
Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltWhat'd I tell ya? We can all be one big, happy, and well-fed family again...that is, if that guy Meathead ever lets someone else near the grill for a change. Some people. Sheesh.
Getty ImagesSearch for easy, weeknight-friendly recipes, and you’re bound to come across many featuring chicken. It’s no surprise that 75 percent of Americans eat such an easy, versatile protein at least once a week. Many home cooks keep it stashed away in the freezer for convenience, ready to thaw for their next minimal-effort meal.
While freezing chicken is convenient, defrosting it is not—especially if you forget to take it out of your freezer in time. The internet is littered with shortcuts for thawing chicken quickly, but do they really work as fast and as well as they claim to? Can the defrosting method you choose impact how your chicken cooks? And, more importantly, is it safe? Armed with more than 55 pounds of chicken—including chicken breasts, thighs, drumsticks, wings, and ground chicken—I decided to find out.
Why It's Important to Defrost Chicken CorrectlyYou have two hours until dinner and you’ve forgotten to defrost your chicken. You place a package of frozen chicken thighs in a bowl of hot water in the hopes that the heat will thaw the poultry quickly. No big deal, right?
While this may feel like an acceptable way to defrost chicken, you’re setting yourself up for a serious case of food poisoning by letting your poultry sit in the temperature danger zone, which ranges from 40 to 140ºF (4.5 to 60ºC). According to Meredith Carothers, a food safety specialist with the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), this is the temperature that harmful bacteria like salmonella, e. Coli, or campylobacter can multiply and “reach dangerous levels,” which can increase the risk of food poisoning. “Depending on the type of bacteria,” she says, “it can create a toxin that’s heat resistant.”
To prevent foodborne illnesses, the USDA has strict guidelines on how to safely thaw chicken. Though there are many ways of defrosting poultry, there are only three methods the organization recommends: thawing chicken in the fridge, in the microwave, or in a bowl of cold tap water with a temperature of 55 to 65ºF (13 to 18ºC).
How We TestedTo determine the best way to defrost chicken, I tested the USDA’s three recommended methods, along with two other common, even if objectionable, ones: allowing the chicken to sit under cool running water and at room temperature.
Serious Eats / Christie RotondoCurious to see if the best way to thaw chicken would depend on the cut, and to gather timing data for some of the most common pieces of chicken, I tested different parts: bone-in and boneless breasts, bone-in and boneless thighs, drumsticks, wings, and ground chicken. To ensure consistency in my testing, all meat was frozen as flat as possible in a quart-size zip-top bag. I weighed each cut and portioned them into individual packages that were all a similar shape and size, as how meat is frozen can impact how long it takes to defrost.
Those packages consisted of:
- Two drumsticks, weighing half a pound in total
- Five wings, weighing half a pound in total
- One pound of ground chicken
- One pound of boneless chicken breasts
- One pound of bone-in, skin-on breasts
- Two boneless thighs, weighing about half a pound in total
- A family-size, two-pound package of bone-in thighs
As each cut defrosted, I recorded how long each method took, how hands-off it was, and if the temperature of the chicken ever reached the danger zone, which I tested with an instant-read meat thermometer. If the chicken did hit a temperature in that range, I noted how long it spent within the danger zone before the rest of the cut was completely thawed. I then cooked all the chicken to see whether each method impacted taste and texture.
Serious Eats / Christie RotondoFor the cooking itself, I rubbed drumsticks, wings, boneless breasts, and boneless thighs with salt and olive oil, then baked it on a rimmed baking sheet at 425°F (220ºC). I browned ground chicken in a nonstick pan on the stove. As for the skin-on, bone-in breasts and thighs, I first crisped them in a cast-iron skillet with butter, then baked them in the oven. My results below will hopefully help you determine the best method to defrost your chicken in the time you have—or if you’re better off ordering pizza for dinner.
The Most Common Methods for Thawing Chicken: TestedRefrigeratorMethod
To thaw chicken in the fridge, I removed it from the freezer, placed the sealed package in a container or on a rimmed baking sheet to collect any leaking juices that could cross-contaminate other food, then refrigerated it until thawed. This took about 24 hours on average, though how long it will take will depend on the size of the cut you’re defrosting.
Serious Eats / Christie Rotondo
How Safe Is It?
Food safety organizations, including the USDA, Canadian Ministry of Health, and European Food Safety Authority generally agree that defrosting poultry in the fridge is the safest. Carothers explains that a fridge calibrated to maintain a temperature below 40ºF (4ºC) ensures that your chicken will never enter the danger zone, minimizing risk of any food-borne pathogens and making it the safest way to defrost chicken.
The Results
This method took the longest. As you’ll see in the chart below, the chicken took between 19 and 30 hours to fully defrost, depending on the size and dimensions of the cut.
MicrowaveMethod
To defrost chicken in the microwave, I removed the chicken from its packaging and placed it on a microwave-safe plate. If your microwave has a “defrost” setting, the USDA recommends using that to thaw chicken. (Some microwaves may also have different defrost settings for poultry, meat, fish, or bread. Choose “poultry” when thawing chicken.) If your microwave does not have a defrost setting, the USDA recommends defrosting the chicken at 30% power.
While defrosting, you’ll want to keep an eye on the chicken, as thin edges will likely begin to cook as the meat defrosts. Use tongs to flip the chicken periodically, about every two minutes or so, to help it defrost evenly. For ground chicken, the USDA even recommends using a spoon or offset spatula to scrape off bits of thawed chicken onto a separate plate. This prevents the chicken from cooking while also allowing the remainder of the meat to thaw more easily.
Serious Eats / Christie RotondoI used my microwave’s “poultry” defrosting setting, which recommends the amount of time to defrost the chicken based on the weight you enter. According to the manufacturer, my microwave varies between 20 to 30% power during the defrosting process to ensure even thawing. Despite this setting, the edges of my chicken were fully defrosted and beginning to cook before the center even had a chance to thaw.
It's important to note that how long it takes to thaw chicken in the microwave will ultimately depend on your microwave’s wattage. To demonstrate this, I tested defrosting boneless chicken breasts with both my higher-wattage microwave and a lower-wattage one to compare the results, and it took about three times as long to thaw them in a lower-wattage microwave (see details in the chart below).
How Safe Is It?
The USDA considers microwave-thawing one of the safest ways to defrost chicken. You’ll have to cook the chicken immediately after defrosting, however, as the outer edges of the chicken will begin to heat up as it defrosts, bringing it into the danger zone. During testing, parts of the chicken frequently reached upward of 80ºF (26ºC)—well above the recommended limits, but still far from the USDA's recommended temperature for chicken of 165ºF (74ºC). Carothers, however, says this isn’t dangerous if you plan on cooking it immediately. “The time that [the chicken] is spending in the danger zone is not actually long enough for bacteria to reach a dangerous level,” she says.
The Results
The microwave was by far the quickest defrosting method. The smallest cuts, like the chicken wings, took as little as five minutes to defrost, while larger cuts took about 25 minutes. You’ll have to sacrifice taste for speed, though: Each microwave-thawed cut was substantially drier than chicken defrosted using other methods, as you’re blasting the poultry with heat to thaw it.
Cold WaterMethod
To defrost chicken using the cold water method, I placed frozen packaged chicken in a bowl of cold tap water. According to the USDA, this method is fine as long as your tap releases water in the 55 to 65ºF (12.7 to 18.3ºC) range. I let the frozen chicken sit until fully thawed, and changed the water every 30 minutes to ensure it remained in that temperature range. To avoid bloating in the water, I kept all the chicken in its plastic packaging.
How Safe Is It?
This method, along with the microwave, are the only two rapid defrosting methods the USDA considers safe. Though this method takes much longer than the microwave (the wings took a mere five minutes in the microwave, whereas the same size package of wings took an hour and five minutes using the cold water method), the USDA still considers it “rapid.”
Serious Eats / Christie RotondoDepending on the size of the cut you’re defrosting, it may take more than an hour for the poultry to fully thaw. The warmer the water, the faster the thawing. To reduce the risk of food sitting in the danger zone, however, the USDA only recommends using cold water, and advises against thawing food in warm or hot water, as food should not be left out for more than an hour if the temperature is above 90ºF (32ºC). The USDA also advises cooking poultry immediately after defrosting in cold water, as the surface temperature of the chicken may approach the danger zone while it’s submerged.
Carothers recommends changing the water every 30 minutes to ensure that the chicken continues to defrost steadily while avoiding wasting water by having it run continuously. The water will get colder as the frozen chicken sits in it and, after 30 minutes, will become cold enough to hinder thawing. I found this true in my testing: Water would come out of my tap at around 65ºF (18ºC), and as the chicken thawed, the water cooled to about 48 to 50ºF (8.8 to 10ºC).
The Results
While not as fast as the microwave, chicken defrosted relatively quickly with the cold water method: All cuts were defrosted in 45 minutes to two hours. This method was also relatively hands-off and didn’t significantly compromise the texture of the cut.
Running WaterMethod
To speed up thawing in cold water, many cooks will place their frozen meat under running water. To see if this was the case, I placed a bowl with frozen packaged chicken under cold running water from my faucet and let it sit until fully thawed. Depending on the size of your chicken, this can take anywhere from 20 minutes to over an hour. While the USDA doesn’t discourage this rapid defrosting method, there were some serious drawbacks.
Serious Eats / Christie RotondoFirst: It’s an incredible waste of water. (A faucet that leaks at just one drip per second releases more than 3,000 gallons of water a year.) Plus, even with the poultry in a plastic bag, this method leads to water that is potentially contaminated splattering all over your sink and counter. This method was also loud: at 78 decibels, the volume of this method is about the same as a running vacuum. Finally, this method was not substantially faster than defrosting packaged chicken in a bowl of cold water, and also had much more uneven results. This is likely because the faucet is focused on just one area of the chicken, causing that one area of the chicken to thaw much faster than the rest of it.
Let Sit at Room TemperatureMethod
After taking the chicken out of the freezer, I placed it on a rimmed baking sheet and let it thaw on my kitchen counter. Defrosting times will vary depending on the temperature of your space. I used an instant-read thermometer to check on the surface temperature every 10 minutes, and moved the chicken into the fridge when its temperature reached above 40℉ (4.4ºC) and had been out of the fridge for two hours.
How Safe Is It?
The USDA tells consumers to avoid this method, as leaving chicken at room temperature for long periods of time puts food most at risk for bacterial growth, making this the most hazardous defrosting method. It is especially dangerous if people treat it as a hands-off method; some home cooks may forget they’re defrosting chicken and cook the meat after it’s been at room temperature or sitting within the temperature danger zone for several hours. Though you won’t get sick every time you do something risky like this, Carothers says it can be especially dangerous for at-risk populations like children, pregnant people, and the elderly.
The Results
My home was at 74ºF (23ºC), and my cuts were all defrosted in two to four hours, then promptly cooked. I also took the temperature of the surface area at several intervals, and while some cuts did reach the danger zone, they were not sitting at this temperature for very long. (According to the USDA, cold food should not be left out of refrigeration for longer than two hours if the room is below 90ºF or 32ºC. If it’s above that temperature, it should not be left out of refrigeration for more than an hour.) In order for bacteria to multiply, both conditions (time and temperature) must be met, Carothers explains.
With that said, most home cooks are more likely to take cuts out of the freezer and leave them on the counter for much longer without closely monitoring the temperature of their poultry, increasing the risk of food poisoning. Unless you plan on keeping a close eye on the thawing process by regularly checking the meat’s temperature, it’s best to employ one of the USDA’s recommended thawing methods instead.
What Is the Fastest Way to Defrost Chicken?Regardless of cut or size, the microwave was unmatched in its ability to defrost food quickly. In the microwave, two pounds of bone-in chicken thighs fully defrosted in 23 minutes, while ground chicken took just 11 minutes to thaw, and the wings took a mere five minutes to defrost.
That speed certainly comes at a cost, though. Because the microwave kicks off the cooking process, the meat is often dried out, sometimes almost to the point of being inedible. This was less noticeable in fatter, juicier cuts like bone-in thighs.
Which Method Produced the Best Results Overall?While defrosting in the fridge often took a substantial amount of time—sometimes more than 24 hours for larger cuts—the cooked results were the best, regardless of cut.
How Should You Thaw a Whole ChickenAccording to the USDA, a whole chicken may take one to two days to thaw. The Chicken Farmers of Canada, the organization responsible for managing chicken production in Canada, estimates that it takes about 5 hours to thaw each pound of chicken in the refrigerator. A four-pound chicken will take about 20 hours to thaw in the fridge; if you know when you plan on cooking your chicken, thaw it at least one day before you plan to cook it. If you’d like to give your chicken a day to dry brine before cooking, thaw it two days before you plan on brining and cooking it.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI may cook and write about food for a living, but there are many evenings when I am simply too exhausted to prepare a meal from scratch. Sometimes dinner is a snacking affair of vegetables and dip or cheese and crackers, and sometimes dinner is…a frozen cheese pizza stashed away in my freezer for a rainy day. It’s a convenient and affordable meal, and depending on the pizza you buy, it can be good enough to scratch that pizza itch in a pinch.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWith many brands available in the freezer aisle, it can be hard to know which are worth stocking in your freezer. Given the even more dizzying number of topping options on frozen pies, we limited this test to classic tomato-and-cheese pizzas (or "margherita" pies as they're sometimes marketed), pulling together 17 different frozen pies you’re likely to find in your local supermarket and putting them to the test.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAfter slicing and tasting our way through the contenders, we found an overall winner we’d be happy to pop into the oven once or twice a week. We’ve also compiled a list of some other very solid pies we heartily recommend, including pies for lovers of cheese, sauce, and more.
The CriteriaAs with fresh pizzeria pies, the criteria for what makes a great pizza is deeply personal. Some people love a thin crust, some love New York-style pies, and some prefer Neapolitan pizzas. Some want an even coating of cheese, while others are happy with islands of gooey melted mozzarella floating in a thin slick of tomato sauce.
Though our editors all have different opinions on what makes an excellent pizza, we all agree that pizza crust should not be soggy or limp, nor tough or overly chewy, and there should be an appropriate ratio of sauce and cheese to pizza. There’s no ideal ratio, but it’s clear when some pies lack sauce, cheese, or both. The sauce, meanwhile, should be tomato-forward, well-seasoned, and have a subtle sweetness and tang.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOverall Winner: Kirkland Signature Cheese PizzaCostco’s Kirkland Signature Cheese Pizza ticked all the boxes: It had enough sauce, plentiful cheese, and a crust with good spring. Of the 17 pizzas we tasted, it was the only one that satisfied almost all of our picky editors who all had very specific pizza preferences. Almost everyone commented on how thick and bready the pizza dough was: Both Amanda Suarez, our associate visuals director, and Sabrina Tan, our art director, thought it was the perfect combination of crisp and doughy. Others, however, thought it was a touch too bready and verged on the dry side. Still, this pizza was appropriately cheesy and had a sauce that reminded our editorial director Daniel Gritzer of a “classic” New York slice, which is the best kind of compliment.
A four-pack of this pizza cost us just $14.42 from Costco; at just $3.60 per pie, our winner also happens to be the most affordable of all the pizzas we tried.
Runners Up: Our Favorite Frozen PizzasThe Best Pizza for Cheese Lovers: Newman’s Own Thin & Crispy Four Cheese Pizza“Very cheesy,” “quite cheesy,” and “so much cheese” are just some of the reviews Newman’s Own Thin & Crispy Four Cheese Pizza received from our editors. While there was plenty of good cheese coverage here, some tasters thought it was a touch too salty, and Daniel thought the cheese tasted a little aged…which doesn’t have to be a bad thing, if you want a little funk in your pizza.
The Best Pizza for Sauce Aficionados: Screamin’ Sicilian Thin & Crispy Cheese PizzaThis pizza reminded our executive editorial director Tess Koman of Chuck-E Cheese pizza in the best way possible: It was saucy and had enough cheese to make her go “heck yeah” in the comments (the rest of us aren't sure we've ever said "heck yeah" about something that reminds us of Chuck-E Cheese pizza, but we get what she meant). Our social media editor Kelli Solomon thought the sauce was “plentiful,” and Sabrina thought this had a great sauce to cheese ratio. While this pizza didn’t skimp on the sauce, it was a little lacking in the dough department, and some of our editors complained that the dough was “barely present” and slightly chalky in texture.
The Best Pizza for Dough Enthusiasts: DiGiorno’s Four Cheese PizzaDiGiorno, it looks like you have fans: Our editors all thought this pizza had adequate sauce and cheese, and Tess thought this was “FAR AND AWAY the most substantive and satisfying” crust. Based on our editors' reviews, this pizza tasted the way we thought a frozen pizza should: “This is what I expect from a frozen pizza conceptually,” Amanda wrote, and Sabrina raved that it had an “iconic frozen pizza flavor” and “delicious” crust.
The Best Margherita Pizza: Roberta’s Margherita“This cheese is the real deal!” Kelli exclaimed. “Not homogeneously distributed, but that gives it a Neapolitan-style vibe.” Multiple people complimented the pizza on its pleasant chewiness and subtle tang, and our associate editorial director Megan O. Steintrager liked that the sauce was “tomato forward” with a “nice tart edge.”
The Best Pizza If You Want Lots and Lots of Herbs: Dr. Oetker Four Cheese PizzaOur editors enjoyed the flavor of this pizza, though everyone thought Dr. Oetker was a little heavy handed with the herbs. Tess thought it tasted “more herb than anything else,” while Daniel found it “oregano-y.” While this wasn’t the right pie for all of our editors, it might be for you—especially if you appreciate an herbaceous kick.
The Contenders* Amy’s Kitchen Margherita Pizza * California Pizza Kitchen Thin Crust Four Cheese Pizza * DiGiorno Traditional Crust Four Cheese Pizza * Dr. Oetker Four Cheese Pizza * Ellio’s Cheese Pizza * Kirkland Signature Cheese Pizza * La Rossi Margherita Pizza * Lean Cuisine Protein Kick Four Cheese Pizza * Newman’s Own Thin & Crispy Four Cheese Pizza * Porta Margherita Pizza * Rao’s Brick Oven Crust Five Cheese Pizza * Red Baron Classic Crust Four Cheese Pizza * Roberta’s Margherita Wood Fired Pizza * Screamin’ Sicilian Thin & Crispy Cheese Pizza * Target's Good & Gather Signature Wood-Fired Margherita Pizza * Trader Joe’s Organic Three Cheese Pizza * Urban Pie Pizza Co. Frozen Eight Cheeses Thin Artisan Crust Pizza
In ConclusionGoing through the taste test results, it was very obvious that everyone had very different pizza preferences. Some tasters sought out pronounced herbs in their sauce, while others did not enjoy that at all. Some loved a nostalgic tasting slice that reminded them of the pizza bagels they enjoyed as kids, while others detested anything that could have passed for a middle schooler’s lunch.
Overall, however, our editors preferred pies with simple, tomato-forward sauces that weren’t too sweet and were light on basil and oregano. With the exception of Roberta’s margherita pizza, our favorites were all "four cheese" pizzas. While the kinds of cheeses included varied, they all contained mozzarella—some full-fat, some skim.
Ultimately, all the top frozen pizzas are ones most of us would be happy to keep in the freezer for a quick, easy meal, ready to reheat at a moment’s notice.
Our Testing MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted with brands completely hidden and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample 1 first, while taster B will taste sample 6 first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation of actual results possible.
Serious Eats / Getty ImagesWherever in the world she is, Clarissa Wei rarely takes the last piece of food for herself.
Wei, a journalist, cookbook author, and Serious Eats contributor from Los Angeles who currently lives in Taipei, grew up sharing abundant meals with her parents and younger brother. “There was always a vegetable, a fish, a protein, a meat, fruit,” she says. “It would be way too much for just four people.”
Her parents, Taiwanese immigrants who came to the United States in the 1980s while Taiwan was in the midst of an economic boom—a.k.a the Taiwan Miracle—“didn’t have any money at all” growing up, says Wei. The abundant meals of Wei’s childhood were, she feels, a way of overcompensating for that still-fresh memory of scarcity.
“When you’re cooking a meal for people in Taiwanese and Chinese culture, or among the Chinese diaspora, most people overcook—especially in this day and age when we have so much abundance,” says Wei. In these cultures, “a hospitable [host] is someone who gives you more food than you can handle.” The best solution to leftover food, says Wei, is not to eat it yourself, but to offer it to each individual guest. But at the same time, eating the last piece risks offending the host, Wei explains—insinuating that you're still hungry and that the host hasn't provided enough food.
Getty Images / James W. PorterThis oft-unspoken rule is about as universal as it gets when it comes to food related etiquette. In parts of Spain, that last morsel is known as la/el de la vergüenza; in Germany, it’s das Anstandsstück, or das Anstandsrest; schaambrokje in the Netherlands; trivselbit in Sweden; and so on, with the phrase itself usually translating to some version of “the decency piece” or “the shame.” Just as often, however, there’s no name for it at all—such as in Minnesota, where comically small bites of food will often go uneaten for politeness’ sake.
So how exactly does one reconcile the fact that this rule exists in so many cultures—especially ones so geographically and culturally distant from one another?
Krishnendu Ray, scholar and director of the New York University Food Studies PhD program, offers a couple of theories—one of which ties directly to his own life. Growing up in a middle-class family in India, Ray lived “in very close proximity to people who are hungry,” he says. As a result, “one of the rules of etiquette was you never take the last morsel, because you don’t know who else is hungry,” he explains.
Ray, who has spent years living abroad in countries like Italy, theorizes that in cultures decimated by war, colonialism, or other major social upheaval, taking the last piece can feel like a major transgression. His close European friends—as well as their parents or grandparents—“always have a proximate memory of hunger,” says Ray, which he attributes to the enduring impact and generational trauma of two World Wars. In contrast, Ray says, his son—who has had a comfortable upbringing in New York, with “no identifiable sense of scarcity”—will take the last piece without hesitating.
In some cases, the rule of the last morsel may harken back even further than World War I. In her book, Beyond Bratwurst: A History of Food in Germany, food historian Ursula Heinzelmann writes, “Until the mid-twelfth century, serving enormous amounts of food and entertaining large groups was an indication of elevated social rank. Thereafter, possibly because the lower classes could increasingly afford enough to satisfy their hunger, overly hearty eating was frowned upon by the aristocracy.”
Heinzelmann, who was born in West Berlin in 1963, was herself raised never to take das Anstandsstück. “With a decent upbringing, you know not to grab, greedily, for the last piece of cake, or whatever there is on the table,” she says. It’s something that “anyone with a ‘good’ family background and upbringing would have experienced, almost like not to fart or belch.”
In Italy, Fabio Parasecoli, author and professor of food studies at NYU’s Steinhardt School, learned a similar system of etiquette from his parents and grandparents. Parasecoli grew up in the 1960s, during Italy’s “economic miracle”—a period of rapid economic growth similar to the one Wei’s parents witnessed in Taiwan. During this period, Parasecoli writes in his book Al Dente: A History of Food in Italy, many Italians experienced financial stability for the very first time. This included access to affordable and abundant food—much of it available at supermarkets, an American innovation that was introduced to Italy in 1957.
Even amidst this abundance, wasting even a bite of food still felt unthinkable to people like Parasecoli’s grandmother. “Why aren’t you eating all of your food?” Parasecoli recalls his grandmother—who lived through both World Wars—asking. “Are you leaving la creanza?”
Getty Images / John KuczalaLa creanza—literally, “the good manners”—refers to that last piece on the plate. This was done, Parasecoli says, “fare una bella figura,” or to leave a good impression and show that you’re not worried about going hungry, he explains. The unspoken rule of leaving the last piece remains even now, when hunger is far less prevalent than it was during wartime, says Parasecoli. “It’s sort of a leftover of a past where scarcity was a reality.” Still, he explains, “there is always a tension—especially for people of older generations—between the desire of appearing polite, and the avoidance of waste.”
This last little piece is almost never thrown away, however. In Ray’s case, particularly when he would eat dinner with his family in Delhi, he said, “everyone kind of avoided taking the last bit, so much so that basically, in the refrigerator you have these little bowls of food leftover.”
At Chinese and Taiwanese dinner tables, Wei explained, the best move is not to eat the last piece yourself, but to offer it to each individual guest. “Say there’s one piece of chicken left–you offer it to your friend, you offer it to whomever is at the table.” To do otherwise would be “incredibly rude,” says Wei.
Gender also plays a role in this unspoken rule of table etiquette. Author and food scholar Darra Goldstein says that an old American belief taught girls never to take the last piece, lest they wind up unmarried—i.e., become an old maid. To Goldstein, this belief likely speaks to both the particular scrutiny placed on a girl’s behavior, and to “parents' deeper fears about their child's future.”
In Italy, “women would leave more food for their kids and for the man,” says Parasecoli. While this behavior hasn’t completely disappeared, he explains, the abundance of food now available in Italy—at least compared to pre-economic miracle days—has made it far less prevalent.
Anita Mannur, Director of Asia, Pacific, and Diaspora Studies at American University, grew up privy to a similar set of gender rules. Among her extended family in India, where Mannur spent a portion of her childhood, “the women would always eat second, and the men and the kids would eat first,” she says. In Mannur’s own house, however, these rules were slightly subverted. Mannur’s mother, who grew up in India, insisted that the last piece go to the youngest, no matter the gender. “She was like, ‘I want you to think about other people, have humility, but not because you’re a girl.’”
In the Philippines, where writer and historian Adrian De Leon lived before immigrating to Toronto at age six, anyone taking the last piece without asking others may invite the Tagalog pejorative “walang hiya”—translating, roughly, to “you have no shame.” According to a TikTok video posted by the Philippines-based online publication, When in Manila, “Taking it means that you’re inconsiderate, you don’t share, and that you don’t respect anyone else in the room.” While the video comes off as slightly hyperbolic, De Leon says it rings true. “I’ve never heard it called that, but I know exactly what he’s talking about.”
Walang hiya also extends into nearly all spheres of public Filipino, especially Tagalog, life. De Leon was taught that whatever he did outside the home reflected how his parents—particularly his father—raised him. “When I started going to therapy, it was actually very shameful—it was walang hiya,” says De Leon. “‘Are you not ashamed that somebody will know our secrets?’” he remembers his father asking him. A person might also be called walang hiya if they openly express queer or trans identity, or, as De Leon explains, if they somehow act “extra”—overly loud or expressive—in public.
As for the last morsel, it could be something as coveted as the fish head—one of De Leon's favorites—or as basic as the “sliver of rice” that his mother would often leave on her plate. Choosing whether to take it is a constant struggle—especially as an adult, De Leon explains. “I look at that piece of fish, and I’m like ‘I want to finish that!’” he says. “[But] I will still find myself not wanting to do it [around family].”
Wei feels a similar ambivalence: “I have this internal battle sometimes where it’s like my American side vs. my Taiwanese side, where sometimes I’ll just take the last piece, and be like ‘you know what, I don’t care!’” she says. When dining with all Taiwanese people, however, “I definitely do not take the last piece.”
Some people, on the other hand, never even encounter this rule. Amy Besa—co-owner of the longtime Brooklyn restaurant Purple Yam, which closed during the summer of 2024 due to Besa and her husband’s retirement—grew up in the Philippines prior to the country’s period of martial law, which ran from 1972 to 1981. Besa never had any hiya (shame) around food while growing up. “That seems so negative!” says Besa.
In Besa's case, it may have something to do with family size, she theorizes. Her older brothers moved out when she was young, so it was usually just her and her parents at the dinner table, with little need for rationing; food was mainly a source of joy. “For me, eating is such a happy way of communing with people, right?” she says. “So if somebody wants to eat a lot, then hey, great!”
Getty Images / Say-CheeseIn so many ways, that last bite of food symbolizes the rich, complex, often paradoxical dynamics at play when we eat with others. Food, Parasecoli explains, “is where you negotiate your identity, your social relations, your status, your memories.” The dinner table is a place where Mannur’s mother can choose to subvert inscribed gender rules and give the last piece of food to her youngest daughter; it’s where Wei can decide to give the last piece of fruit to her son “out of love,” rather than a sense of internalized shame, she says.
Despite these constant negotiations, eating dinner with a group doesn’t need to feel fraught. Whenever De Leon’s family goes to dinner with their close family friends, “We know that Tita makes hella food,” he says, using the Tagalog word for aunt or auntie. “And we’re going to freaking enjoy it no matter what. And we’re going to take some home if we don’t finish it.”
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIt's like clockwork: Every fall, once that first leaf falls off a tree, it seems like everyone heads to their kitchens to bake pumpkin bread. We get it—we love pumpkin, too, as exhibited by our pumpkin bread and pumpkin spice latte recipes. But for most people, pumpkin bread is a sweet treat—a moist loaf made with flour and sugar, infused with warm spices, and often accompanied by some sort of sweet topping such as a streusel or a glaze. But have you tried the other type of pumpkin bread—the yeasted variety? If you haven't, this versatile savory take on pumpkin bread definitely deserves your attention this fall.
“Whether in a latte or pie, our concept of pumpkin flavor revolves almost entirely around added sugar and spice,” writes Stella Parks in her yeasted pumpkin bread recipe. Pumpkin itself doesn’t add much sweetness to recipes, but rather a warm color and a subtle earthy flavor. In the spirit of cooking seasonally, though, Stella likes to use pumpkin purée in place of water in a basic sandwich loaf made up of flour, salt, and yeast. The result is a fluffy and light bread with a relatively fine crumb and that offers a deeper flavor than your average sandwich loaf—a very subtle sweetness with a hint of nuttiness. And, it has a number of fantastic uses.
Griddle up Some Grilled CheeseSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf you’re looking for a way to switch up your grilled cheese, yeasted pumpkin bread has been waiting for you. We have no shortage of grilled cheese recipes to choose from, so whether you’re in the mood for a classic grilled cheese with American, cheddar, or Jack or one filled with Brie and Nutella, the faint sweetness in this pumpkin bread is ready to play along with almost any flavor.
Swap It for Plain White or Wheat in Just About Any SandwichA sandwich with plain white or wheat bread? Boring! A sandwich with yeasted pumpkin bread? Thrilling! Mysterious! Living life on the edge! The nuanced flavor of this bread gives it a wide range of applications, making a loaf fair game in just about any sandwich where you'd use average sandwich bread. You can’t go wrong with classic sandwiches like a ham and cheese, turkey club, or croque monsieur. But if you want to complement the loaf’s subtle sweetness, try it as the base of a PB&J or pressed into a Monte Cristo. And for the ultimate Thanksgiving leftovers sandwich, slather some cranberry sauce on a few slices of the bread and stuff it with turkey.
Turn It Into French Toast French toast doesn’t have to be reserved for those lingering slices of bread that are about to go stale. If you have a fresh loaf of yeasted pumpkin bread, you can easily turn it into breakfast with pantry staples like eggs, sugar, butter, and milk. The bread’s complexity will add a little more depth to your everyday French toast. (And, yes, you can make French toast with stale yeasted pumpkin bread, too.)
Use It in StuffingSerious Eats / Mariel De La CruzWhat’s more Thanksgiving than a stuffing made with pumpkin bread? Tear it up and add it to a classic sage and sausage stuffing, or try it in a vegan stuffing alongside mushrooms and pecans.
With a new autumn tradition under your belt, it's time to head into the kitchen to make this savory pumpkin bread—we're calling it the upgrade of the season.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppMy Indonesian Chinese parents frequently prepared two kinds of soups when I was a child: There was sup, a clear beef or chicken broth that usually features floating macaroni, slices of pan-fried Spam, or thick chunks of oxtail with vegetables. The other was soto, a spice-rich soup unique to the Southeast region of Indonesia, Singapore, and Malaysia. Also referred to as “coto” or “croto” in different dialects, the soup has various components depending on the region, the cook preparing it, and what’s available. What’s included is usually based on personal preference and what’s available locally. My two favorites include soto Betawi, a Jakartan dish of beef brisket, tripe, and a thick coconut milk-based soup; and the turmeric- and coriander-inflected soto ayam Madura (chicken soto from Madura, an island off Java’s northeastern coast) that’s typically served with mung bean threads and shredded chicken.
Serious Eats / Shri Repp
While both sup and soto are popular across the Indonesian archipelago, sup is largely the product of Dutch colonization; the dish contains many ingredients the Dutch introduced to Indonesia, including vegetables like potatoes and cabbage. Soto, on the other hand, tastes much more intrinsically Indonesian with its traditional ingredients such as lemongrass and lime leaves. Depending on who you ask, soto’s provenance varies. However, it is safe to say that different communities adapted it to incorporate their own cooking traditions and ingredients. For example: Because a majority of Indonesians do not consume pork, soto babi (pork soto) is only widely eaten in Bali, where the predominantly Hindu population does not follow the Muslim halal law. (87 percent of the Indonesian population identifies as Muslim, according to Pew Research citing data released by the Ministry of Religious Affairs in 2022.)
The recipe below is inspired by the one my mum often made for my family when I was a child. I can still remember her grinding white peppercorns and coriander seeds—among other herbs and spices—in her mortar, with turmeric staining her hands and the warm ginger notes permeating our home. Watching my mum toil away through her recipe and its long list of ingredients, I always assumed making soto ayam was complicated. The first time I made my mum’s recipe, I was shocked to discover that the classic Indonesian dish comes together in just an hour—though you can shave off even more time by starting with leftover chicken and store-bought stock.
Making a Flavorful Soup Base for Soto AyamWhen making the soup base, I use both chicken bones and meat: The collagen from the bones gives the soup body, while the meat brings rich chicken flavor. Though you can use whatever bones or cuts of chicken you have on hand, my recipe below calls for bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs. The cut is more forgiving than chicken breast, which can easily overcook, and has plenty of meat for shredding into the soup to enjoy with the noodles.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppHow to Make the Spice Paste for Soto AyamAs I touched on in my Indonesian white spice paste recipe, spice pastes are the foundation of many Indonesian recipes. The pastes typically consist of garlic, shallots, candlenuts or macadamia nuts, coriander seeds, and other aromatics like makrut lime leaves and lemongrass, though ingredients may vary depending on what the spice paste will be used in. The red bumbu dasar merah that’s used in beef rendang, for example, will have spicy red chiles. The yellow bumbu dasar kuning I use to make soto ayam gets its warm, earthy flavor from fresh ginger and ground turmeric, along with a floral note from white peppercorns and creaminess from candlenuts. (Candlenuts, a staple of Indonesian cooking, can be easily found online or at Southeast Asian grocery stores, but you can substitute macadamia nuts if necessary.) I recommend using whole spices and grinding them fresh in a small mortar and pestle or spice grinder for a more pronounced and fragrant flavor.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppThe Best Noodles for Soto AyamThe soup is traditionally served with mung bean threads—glass noodles that have a pleasantly chewy texture—and that’s what my recipe below calls for. If you can’t get your hands on mung bean noodles, though, rice vermicelli is also a good option. You can also eat soto ayam with white rice or lontong (compressed rice cakes), which is something I do from time to time.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppHow to Assemble Soto AyamOnce the soup is done, all that’s left is to assemble the noodle bowls. Layer the noodles, vegetables, chicken, and egg slices in individual bowls, then carefully pour the piping hot soup over. Garnish with bean sprouts, green onion, celery leaves, and crisp shallots. My favorite, however, is the traditional topping of crushed potato chips, which add a pleasant crunch. You can serve soto ayam as a one-dish meal or as part of a multi-course family-style meal, and with or without rice. Just don’t forget the kecap manis, sambal oelek, and limes, which bring everything together and complete the meal.
For the Soup Base: In a 6-quart pot, combine chicken and 2 quarts (1.9L) water and bring to a boil over medium heat, about 10 minutes. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook until chicken is cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppFor the Spice Paste: Meanwhile, using a mortar and pestle or spice grinder, grind peppercorns and coriander seeds into a coarse powder.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppIn the bowl of a food processor, combine ground peppercorns and coriander seeds with crushed candlenuts or macadamias, garlic, ginger, ground turmeric, and salt. Pulse until thick paste forms, about 2 minutes, using a flexible spatula to scrape the sides of the bowl as needed. (Spice paste should have the texture of cooked oatmeal; if at any time the paste stops moving in the food processor, add oil or water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it starts moving again.)
Serious Eats / Shri ReppTo Finish: Using tongs, remove chicken from pot and transfer to a plate. Let chicken stand until cool enough to handle, about 5 minutes. Shred meat and set aside. Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain soup base into a 2-quart or larger liquid measuring cup or a large bowl. (You should have about 6 cups soup base; top up with water if necessary. Pour soup base into a clean 4-quart pot and discard the bones.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppIn an 8-inch nonstick skillet set over medium heat, heat oil until shimmering. Add the spice paste, lemongrass, and lime leaves, and fry until fragrant and slightly darkened, about 1 minute. Add mixture to soup base and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until flavors meld, 30 minutes. Season with salt, adding more if necessary.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppDivide shredded chicken, noodles, mung bean sprouts, eggs, green onion, celery, and shallots among 4 bowls. Pour 1 to 1-1/4 cup hot soup into each bowl. Just before serving, shower with crushed potato chips. Serve with kecap, sambal, and limes.
Serious Eats / Shri ReppSpecial Equipment6-quart pot, mortar and pestle or spice grinder, food processor, tongs, fine-mesh strainer, 2-quart or larger liquid measuring cup, 4-quart pot, 8-inch nonstick skillet
NotesThis recipe makes 4 servings for a light lunch or as part of a multi-course, family-style meal. It can be served with rice for a heartier meal.
Mildly toxic when raw, candlenut (kemiri) is used as a thickener in Indonesian cooking. In Hawaii, it is known as kukui nut and is a common ingredient in poke. You can find candlenuts at Asian grocery stores specializing in Southeast Asian cuisines and online. Macadamias have a similarly high oil content and texture when pounded and are a good substitute.
To prepare lemongrass, trim 1-inch off the top and bottom. Remove the loose outer leaves and bruise the bulb with the butt of a knife or use a meat pounder or heavy glass. The stalk will be pliable enough to tie into a knot.
Chinese celery, or seledri in Indonesian, is used for its leaves rather than stalks in Indonesian cooking. If you can't find it, you can substitute with regular celery leaves or flat leaf parsley.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe soup base (step 1) can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated.
The spice paste can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks or frozen for up to 3 months.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor many grade schoolers, a blue-foil–wrapped bar of sticky-sweet Rice Krispies Treats is a lunchbox treasure. But unfortunately for my parents, I was a bit more discerning (aka annoying) than most kids my age. When I was eight, for example, I cried because my parents wouldn't let me order shrimp scampi at a restaurant. So the marshmallow snack they’d slip into my school lunch—never quite did it for my savory-seeking taste buds.
More recently, when I began to think about developing a recipe for my own High Holiday dessert, I had a devious idea of how to bend this bakesale staple into the saltier, more savory directions I crave. The key ingredient is a Jewish pantry staple: schmaltz.
Schmaltz is the Yiddish word for rendered poultry fat, most commonly chicken. The golden fat is packed with flavor and a warming richness that is the backbone of the best chicken soup and matzo balls. Many Jewish cooks wisely add diced onions partway through rendering to impart a subtle caramelly sweetness to the fat, which I was confident would act as the perfect bridge between the salty and sweet flavors here.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFinally, and maybe most importantly, after making and straining the schmaltz using this basic method, you are left with the strained crispy chicken skin and onions, called gribenes in Yiddish. And though it may cause a few bubbes to clutch their pearls, I was all too excited to fold those cracklings into the cereal mixture.
After testing a bunch of other mix-ins in the hopes that I could pack in even more comforting flavors of a Rosh Hashanah roast, I settled on adding another big part of Jewish-American culinary culture: Lipton Onion Soup Mix, often lovingly called "Jewish MSG." Ashkenazi cooks like my grandma tear open the paper packet of brown-gray powder and dried onion to use in everything from a dry rub for brisket to casseroles and, of course, soup.
The slightly artificial, capital-O onion flavor from the mix helps to multiply the allium flavor and richness from the fried onions in the schmaltz. That flavor amplification is also in no small part due to the ample amount of actual MSG the mix contains.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor extra credit, and since you'll have some time to kill while you wait for the schmaltz to render, I call for you to toast the Rice Krispies in the oven, greatly improving their texture when folded with the melty marshmallows and adding some welcome nuttiness to this more complex flavor profile. All of this effort results in what may just be the platonic ideal of a salty-meets-sweet treat.
Also! Should you desire to take this dessert even further, you can add some other things inspired by Jewish classics. In my tests, I was particularly partial to mixing in some everything bagel seasoning or minced dried apricots. One of them drives the treats even farther into savory territory, the other nudges it more towards sweet—you know your preferences so go with whichever sounds best to you.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing a very sharp knife or good kitchen shears, cut chicken skin and fat into roughly 1/4- to 1/2-inch pieces (if using a knife, it helps to freeze the skin and fat for 30 minutes before cutting).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large nonstick skillet, combine chicken skin and fat with enough water to barely cover. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, then reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring frequently, until the water has entirely evaporated and the chicken has just started to turn brown, about 1 hour. Add diced onion and cook, stirring often, until the onion is golden and the chicken skin has crisped and is thoroughly browned, about 25 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeanwhile, preheat oven to 325°F (160°C) and set racks in upper- and lower-middle positions. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper, then divide rice krispies between them and spread in an even layer. Toast in the oven, stirring with a silicone spatula every 3 minutes, until evenly golden brown, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool slightly.
Set a fine-mesh strainer over a heatproof bowl and strain the chicken fat through it; you should have about 1/2 cup of schmaltz. Transfer the gribenes (crispy skin and onions) to a paper towel–lined plate and season with a pinch of salt. Let cool (if some pieces are too large, you can further chop them now).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLine 2-quart baking dish (see Special Equipment, below) with parchment overhanging the 2 long sides and coat with nonstick cooking spray; set aside. In a large (6-quart) pot, heat 6 tablespoons schmaltz over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add onion soup mix and the 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring often, until the dried onion pieces have turned golden, about 1 1/2 minutes. Add marshmallows and cook, stirring with a silicone spatula and scraping the bottom and sides of the pot, until marshmallows have melted, between 2 and 4 minutes depending on the size of marshmallows.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFold in Rice Krispies and reserved gribenes until thoroughly combined. If desired, stir in the everything bagel seasonings or dried apricots.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer mixture to the prepared baking dish and press into an even layer. Let cool until fully set, at least 30 minutes. To portion, use the parchment to transfer Rice Krispy treats to a work surface, then discard parchment. Use a serrated knife to cut into your desired size and shape.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNotesChicken skin and fat can either be collected over time from chicken trimmings and kept in the freezer, or purchased directly from a butcher (if going to a butcher, it helps to call a day ahead to request them to save fat and skin trimmings).
Special EquipmentRoughly 2-quart baking dish or pan (various dimensions of baking dish will work, including a 9- by 13-inch baking dish, or an 8-inch square cake pan).
Make-Ahead and StorageThe bars can be kept in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeFudgy, cakey, or chewy, studded with nuts or swirled with marshmallow fluff—I love just about every variation of brownie imaginable. One of my favorite riffs on a classic brownie is this buckeye brownie recipe. They’re inspired by Ohio’s favorite candy, the buckeye: a classic treat made with a creamy peanut butter and confectioners sugar filling that’s rolled and portioned into bite-sized balls, then chilled and partially dipped in chocolate. The treats are called buckeyes because they resemble the nut of the Ohio buckeye tree—the state tree of Ohio. (And the tree nuts, which, by the way, are poisonous, are so named because they resemble a deer's eye.) Buckeye candies are purposefully jaw-clenchingly sweet, rich, and SO good that we feel their flavor combination shouldn’t be limited to just candy.
Here we reimagined buckeye candies into a dessert bar with a fudgy chocolate brownie base with a thick middle layer of a creamy sweetened peanut butter and and a top layer of dark chocolate ganache. They’re special enough for almost any celebration or even your next potluck. To create the best version possible, our test kitchen colleague Jasmine Smith whipped up batch after batch of buckeye brownies. Jasmine’s recipe nails every layer: an intense chocolatey brownie base, a smooth peanut butter filling, and a dark chocolate ganache topping. Here’s how to make them.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeTips for Making Buckeye BrowniesUse Dutch-processed cocoa powder in the brownies. For the most chocolatey and rich brownies possible, use a high quality Dutch-processed cocoa powder rather than natural cocoa powder. In her Dutch-processed cocoa powder taste test, Stella Parks explains that cocoa powder is the dry matter left behind after the oily cocoa butter is extracted from cocoa beans that have been fermented and roasted for maximum flavor. This powder is naturally acidic. Natural cocoa powder is sold as is, while Dutched cocoas include an additional step to neutralize that acidity (a process developed by a Dutch chemist, hence the name). Most Dutch-processed cocoas contain nearly twice the fat of natural styles, and often come from better-quality beans. The result is a slightly alkaline cocoa powder that's higher in fat, lower in starch, and more aromatic all around, with a mahogany color and a flavor profile that emphasizes cocoa's darker, nuttier, earthier tones.
The brands Droste and Valrhona brand Dutch cocoa powders are two excellent choices. If Dutch-processed cocoa powder is unavailable, most supermarkets will still carry a dark unsweetened cocoa powder that will work fine, though your brownie layer will be a bit less rich, but still delicious.
Add coffee to the brownie mix. Jasmine found in her recipe testing that a little bit of strongly brewed coffee (just 3 tablespoons) whisked into the brownie batter goes a long way. You won’t taste coffee in the baked brownies, but the bitterness of coffee balances the sweetness of chocolate, keeping the brownies from becoming cloying. At the same time, coffee enhances the chocolate flavor, making it more complex and intense. Leftover strongly brewed drip coffee works well, or 1 1/2 teaspoons instant espresso powder with 3 added tablespoons of water also works well here.
Cream the butter and the peanut butter filling. Adequately creaming the butter with the peanut butter and confectioners' sugar with an electric mixer or stand mixer with a whisk attachment traps tiny air bubbles in the filling—something that would be very challenging to achieve and require a lot of arm strength if done by hand. Without proper whipping to aerate and lighten the filling, the butter and peanut butter would form an ultra-dense paste. Butter is best beaten when it’s at soft but cool room temperature—ideally 65ºF or 18ºC. At this temperature, butter is pliable enough to beat with the sugar.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeStick with a bittersweet chocolate bar for the best flavor. When preparing the brownie and ganache, don’t be tempted to swap in milk chocolate or any chocolate with less than 70% cacao or you risk creating a dessert that's way too sweet and falls short on chocolatey flavor. The terms bittersweet and dark are often used interchangeably on packaging, so make sure to double check the chocolate is labeled somewhere between 70 to 75% cacao, and skip the chips. Chocolate chips usually have added emulsifiers added to them that prevent them from fully melting into a ganache.
Refrigerate the brownies before slicing. Once layered and assembled, the bars need at least one hour in the refrigerator to achieve a firm and sliceable texture. If you try to remove the brownies from the pan without refrigerating them, the soft peanut butter filling will ooze out when trying to slice. I like to assemble the brownies and refrigerate them a day before serving them. Yes, it's hard to wait to eat them, but it's worth it!
For the Brownies: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Coat a 13- x 9-inch metal baking pan (at least 2 inches deep) with cooking spray. Line with parchment paper, leaving at least 2 inches overhang on two opposite sides to remove brownies from pan. Spray parchment paper with cooking spray. Set pan aside.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeIn a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium-low heat. Once melted, whisk in granulated sugar and brown sugar until smooth, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and whisk in 1 cup of the chopped chocolate until melted, about 30 seconds. Whisk in cocoa powder, coffee, vanilla, and salt. Let mixture cool for 5 minutes. Working quickly to avoid cooking eggs, add one egg at a time to the chocolate mixture, and whisk vigorously until incorporated. Repeat with remaining eggs. Add flour and 1/4 cup of the remaining chopped chocolate, folding until just combined.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazePour brownie mixture into the prepared baking pan, and spread into an even layer. Bake until slightly risen and the top appears somewhat shiny, 30 to 35 minutes.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeRemove from oven, and place pan on a wire rack to cool completely, about 1 1/2 hours.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeFor the Peanut Butter Filling: In a large bowl with an electric mixer or in a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, beat butter on medium-high speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Add peanut butter, and beat until light and creamy, about 1 more minute. Gradually add the powdered sugar, 1/2 cup at a time, and beat until fully incorporated, about 2 minutes, stopping to scrape down sides of bowl as needed. Add heavy cream, vanilla, and salt; beat until combined, about 30 seconds. Dollop peanut butter mixture over cooled brownies, and spread into an even layer. Refrigerate, uncovered, while preparing the chocolate ganache.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeFor the Chocolate Ganache: In a small heatproof bowl, add chopped chocolate and set aside. In a microwave-safe liquid measuring cup or bowl, microwave cream until hot, but not simmering, 30 to 60 seconds. Add butter to cream, and stir until melted. Pour cream mixture over chocolate in bowl, and let sit for 1 minute. Add kosher salt, and stir until smooth and all chocolate is melted. Remove brownies from refrigerator, and pour the ganache over the peanut butter filling. Use an offset spatula to spread into an even layer. Refrigerate again until chocolate ganache is firm and set, about 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeRun a sharp knife around the edges of brownies (inside the parchment) to release from the pan. Use the parchment sling handles to remove the brownies from the pan and place on a cutting board. Sprinkle evenly with flaky sea salt. Cut into squares, and serve.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeSpecial Equipment13- x 9-inch metal baking pan, medium saucepan, electric mixer or stand-mixer with whisk attachment
NotesIf using salted peanut butter, use half the amount of salt in the brownie batter.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe peanut butter filling can be made in advance and stored at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 2 days.
The assembled brownies can be stored at room temperature, covered, for up to 2 days.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaOne of my favorite ways to eat shrimp is the Indian dish khadkhadi, plump shrimp simmered in a rich and tart sauce featuring ingredients commonly used in the west coast of the country, including tamarind and coconut. I learned how to cook khadkhadi from my mother’s sister, Maya Kale-Laud, who cooked it often. It’s so loved by me and my family that Maya even contributed her recipe for it to my cookbook The Essential Marathi Cookbook.
The dish's name is an onomatopoeia: In Maya and my mother's mother tongue of Marathi, khadkhadna refers to the bubbling sound made by the ingredients cooking in a hot liquid. In the dish, shrimp are first brined to give them a plump, snappy texture, then they bubble away in a velvety coconutty sauce made tangy from tamarind pulp. It’s delightfully savory, a little sweet, and acidic all at once. Because the sound of the shrimp cooking is loud, I lovingly refer to the dish as “noisy” shrimp.
Maya Maushi—Maushi means mother's sister in Marathi, the language of my state, Maharashtra—often cooked khadkhadi for her seafood-loving family, and it’s easy to see why: It’s a quick dish, ready in less than an hour and can be served hot right away or eaten cold as a pickled condiment for the next five days. As the shrimp brine briefly, you can soak the tamarind and make the coconut-garlic paste. Then after a mere 15 minutes of cooking, dinner is ready.
Hot, khadkhadi is a filling main course on white rice or a flavorful snack on toast. Out of the refrigerator, it can be used as a satisfyingly spicy condiment with Indian food or served cold on dressed greens for a lip-smacking salad. I keep the essence of Maushi’s recipe here, tweaking it only slightly. Here are a few tips for making this sweet, tart, and savory coconut and tamarind shrimp recipe at home.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaTips for Cooking Coconut and Tamarind ShrimpFor juicier shrimp, brine with salt and baking soda. Tossing the shrimp with salt and baking soda briefly before cooking greatly enhances the shrimp’s flavor and seasoning; brining with salt ensures the shrimp remain moist as they cook, while alkaline baking soda delivers a pleasantly firm texture.
Here, I toss the shrimp with the salt and baking soda plus red chile powder and ground turmeric for additional flavor. In my tests, I found that the shrimp had the best flavor and texture when brined for 30 to 45 minutes. Just make sure to refrigerate them during this time so they stay fresh, and use a glass or metal bowl that will not stain from the vibrant turmeric and chile powder.
Start with frozen fresh coconut flakes for a flavorful sauce. While Maushi used a grinding stone to make her coconut and garlic paste, here I call for a food processor. Using a food processor requires adding water to the coconut mixture to ensure the processor’s blade catches the mixture and blends until smooth. (If you prefer to use a mortar and pestle, you can omit water initially and add one tablespoon at a time if needed to loosen the mixture.) Make sure to use frozen fresh flakes, not desiccated or dried sweetened flakes. Fresh coconut flakes have a richer, more intense coconut flavor than dried varieties do.
Make your own tamarind paste; it’s easier than you think. Store-bought prepared tamarind paste is available at many Indian food markets, and may seem like the easier option since little to no prep is needed for it, but I strongly recommend not using prepared tamarind paste, which can vary greatly in texture and flavor and they often lack the depth of flavor and thicker texture of a paste that’s freshly prepared with tamarind pulp. Instead make your own paste from scratch with tamarind pulp; the effort is worth it for the balanced tart and sweet flavor it adds to the final dish. I recommend using Indian tamarind pulp, as Thai tamarind pulp is typically too sweet for this savory application.
Start with a tamarind pulp block and cut or pinch off two ounces from the larger block into two-inch chunks. From there, steep it in boiling water for 15 minutes to soften, then squeeze and mash the pulp to separate it from the fibers and seeds, and finally press it through a fine-mesh strainer. Make sure to use a flexible spatula to scrape off any usable paste that clings to the underside of the strainer, and add it to the bowl with the rest of the paste. This process separates and removes the fibers and seeds from the pulp to form a thick, sweet, tart, and complex tasting paste.
Serve hot or cold. One of my favorite things about this recipe is that it is great served hot right after cooking as a main dish, but it is also wonderful when cooled down, refrigerated, and served cold. As the shrimp sit in the acidic tamarind and coconut sauce, they pickle and develop a brighter, sharper flavor over time. The acidic sauce preserves the shrimp so they can last up to a full week in the refrigerator.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaIf you plan to eat the shrimp as a main course, I recommend using large shrimp. But If you plan to refrigerate it and serve it as a condiment or salad topping later, I recommend using small shrimp. I find that smaller shrimp clump together more in the sauce and are easier to spoon as a cohesive topping on toast, which is how I like to enjoy it. Think of the small pieces of mango you find in a mango pickle or chutney—you will have a similar experience with spreadability if using smaller shrimp.
For brining the shrimp: In a large metal or glass bowl, toss the shrimp with salt, chile powder, turmeric, and baking soda until combined and refrigerate for 30 to 45 minutes before cooking.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaFor the tamarind paste: While the shrimp brine, in a separate bowl, break up the tamarind into 2-inch chunks as best you can. Cover with boiling water for 15 minutes. Then, using your hands or a potato masher, mash the tamarind to break it up thoroughly to separate the pulp from the fruit fibers. Lightly squeeze the tamarind pulp to extract as much liquid as possible. Continue to soak for 5 minutes more. Use a fine-mesh strainer to drain the mixture into another bowl, and use a spatula to press gently on the pulp to extract as much pulp as possible through the strainer, scraping the bottom of the strainer occasionally and adding that extracted pulp to the bowl below. Discard the remaining threads, seeds, and skin of the fruit. You should have 8 to 10 tablespoons of the pulp paste; set aside.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaFor the coconut-garlic paste: While tamarind soaks, in high powdered blender, pulse coconut, garlic, and water to a fine, soft paste. Add up to 2 tablespoons more water if needed to get a silky paste. The paste should be very soft, finer than pesto, with no visible coconut flecks. There should also be no freestanding water left after grinding. If there is water, pulse further (3 to 4 more pulses) to incorporate the water into the coconut. (Alternatively, grind the coconut, garlic, and water to a fine, soft paste with a mortar and pestle, adding water 1 tablespoon at a time as needed to loosen the mixture. )
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaFor cooking the shrimp: Keeping a lid or screen handy, in a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Reduce heat to low and test the oil with one mustard seed. If it pops right away, the oil is ready to proceed; if not, return heat to medium-high briefly (about 15 seconds) and retest. When ready, quickly add the remaining mustard seeds to the saucepan and cover quickly with the lid/screen. The mustard seeds will pop, making a sound like popping corn for about 15 seconds. Once the popping stops, reduce heat to low, uncover and immediately add coconut-garlic paste. Cook, stirring often with a spoon and scraping the bottom of the pan periodically to ensure that no coconut sticks to it, until the mixture begins to turn golden and aromatic, being careful to not burn the mixture, 1 to 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaIncrease the heat to medium–high and add the brined shrimp to the pan and stir to combine with the paste. Add the prepared tamarind pulp and water into the pan and stir to combine. Cook until bubbling, 1 to 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaReduce heat to medium-low and cook until shrimp just turn opaque and pink and sauce is bubbling and thickened, 2 to 3 minutes.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaLet sit off heat, covered, until shrimp is fully cooked, 1 to 5 minutes. Serve immediately with rice and garnish with cilantro or cool to room temperature, then refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to serve. The shrimp can be served warm, at room temperature, or chilled.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaSpecial EquipmentMetal or glass bowl for brining shrimp (so the turmeric does not stain plastic), fine-mesh strainer, food processor or mortar and pestle, medium saucepan with a lid or screen
NotesThe recipe can easily be doubled, if desired.
If serving the shrimp hot as a main course, I recommend using large shrimp, while if planning to serve the shrimp cold as a condiment or spread on toast, I prefer to use smaller shrimp.
For a spicier version, add more chile powder to the shrimp brine.
Make-Ahead and StorageMake khadkhadi as a condiment up to 7 days before you wish to serve it. Store in an airtight glass jar or other tightly sealed container. Serve at room temperature or cold.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyI like to think of smoothies as the ultimate "choose your own adventure" concoction—you can make it with just about anything you want. All you need is a blender and you're good to go. But how many times have you chucked a bunch of random ingredients into the blender, hoping for the tastiest result and ending up with the grossest? Been there...many, many times. This is where smoothie recipes can act as a springboard for our creativity.
We've rounded up our favorite smoothie recipes to set you off on the path to success. Whether you want a quick, nutrient-packed breakfast drink to jumpstart your morning, or an afternoon pick-me-up when you've hit the proverbial wall, there's a smoothie recipe that's for you. So, let's get that blender whirling!
Peanut Butter-Banana SmoothieSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezLike Elvis, I love the iconic pairing of bananas and peanut butter—hold the bacon. Here, peanut butter's creaminess and savory notes perfectly complement the natural sweetness and tropical flavor of banana, while blending in frozen sliced bananas yields a thicker, creamier texture. We recommend using unsalted natural peanut butter with no added sugar and then adding just a pinch of salt to enhance the sweet-savory flavor profile.
Strawberry Banana SmoothieSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis deliciously smoothie is reminiscent of the strawberry milk from your childhood—minus the artificial flavors and colors. Frozen strawberries, almost always packed at peak ripeness, chill the smoothie without the need for ice, while a bit of strawberry jam intensifies the berry flavor. Banana adds thickness while whole milk lends richness.
Coffee SmoothieSerious Eats / Jen CauseyIf you're like me, a morning without coffee is like a false start to the day. While I usually take my Joe hot in the form of a latte, there is something extremely appealing about drinking it in smoothie form—especially when it can almost double as breakfast. This smoothie is layered with coffee flavor from strong-brewed coffee ice cubes, coffee yogurt, and chocolate-covered espresso beans, plus creamy almond butter and a little sweetened condensed milk. Good morning, indeed!
Avocado SmoothieSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis green smoothie is right up my alley: It's ultra-creamy from avocado, sweet from mango and banana, and slightly tangy from orange juice. There's also just enough spinach to pump up the vibrant color and provide a dose of green vegetable without me actually noticing its presence. That's a win-win in my book.
Spicy Chard and Pineapple SmoothieSerious Eats / Autumn GilesWant to kickstart your day with a little heat? The spice in this smoothie comes courtesy of fresh jalapeño, which is blended with frozen pineapple and avocado, We like incorporating chard instead of the usual kale for a better flavor and because it blends more thoroughly. The avocado provides a rich, creamy base and satiating healthy fat, while the pineapple adds the right amount of sweetness to balance the spicy chile.
The Californian Smoothie (Avocado-Berry Smoothie)Serious Eats / Robyn LeeWhat's more quintessentially Californian than avocados and dates? Avocado gives this smoothie its rich, creamy body, while frozen strawberries and raspberries provide a vibrant hue. We sweeten the blend with dates and honey, which lend caramel and floral notes. Choose your own adventure when it comes to the milk—any will do.
Blueberry, Ginger, and Kefir SmoothieSerious Eats / Autumn GilesWhole milk kefir ice cubes are the key to making quick and creamy smoothies. All you have to do is pour the drinkable yogurt into ice cube trays and stash the frozen cubes in a zip-top freezer bag. Here, we blend the kefir cubes with fresh blueberries, more kefir, and freshly grated ginger, which adds more of a kick than the ground variety. Even though everything gets processed in a blender, you still want to use finely minced or grated ginger to ensure you don't end up with potent chunks in your smoothie.
Peach Basil Kefir SmoothieSerious Eats / Autumn GilesThis is the ideal smoothie to make at the height of peach season. The luscious fruit pairs beautifully with fresh basil, while frozen kefir chills down the smoothie and gives it a tangy peaches-and-cream vibe.
Raspberry, Mint, and Kefir SmoothieSerious Eats / Autumn GilesFour ingredients come together in perfect harmony in this refreshingly bright and frosty drink. The sweetness of the honey tempers the tanginess of the raspberries and kefir, and cooling fresh mint ties it all together.
Coquito SmoothieSerious Eats / Autumn GilesInspired by the Puerto Rican holiday punch, this creamy coquito smoothie is dairy-and egg-free. Using coconut milk from a carton (which you can find in the refrigerated section of the grocery store) provides the right amount of richness and coconut flavor without separating like canned coconut milk does when chilled. Frozen banana sweetens and thickens the smoothie, while maple syrup's caramel note mimics the flavor of rum and bourbon. Lastly, a sprinkle of ground nutmeg will make you feel like you're drinking a glass of eggnog.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor our latest taste test, we’re taking on one of my favorite things to spread on toast, waffles, or fill doughnuts with—gianduja spread! What's that, you say? These spreads have come to be colloquially known as "Nutella spreads." Like how Microplane has become synonymous with rasp graters, Nutella is now a catch-all for this chocolate-hazelnut spread category. Though Nutella technically does not contain enough hazelnut to be classified as gianduja, it’s the gateway brand for most Americans who enjoy this spread. According to the European Union, "gianduja" should contain at least 20–40% finely ground hazelnuts, so we broadened the taste test category to include various chocolate-hazelnut spreads.
In another twist, this taste test includes brands you may not find in your local supermarket. Your go-to stores will probably carry Nutella, Caffarel, and a few others. Many of these spreads are imported from Italy and found at Italian specialty foods stores. If you’re still not able to find them (and some of them—some of them—are so worth finding!), they're all easy to acquire if you order them online. I went down a chocolate-hazelnut rabbit hole, looking at over 30 different spreads, and ordered the top-rated options. The rest came from Eataly, which has an awe-inspiring selection of highly rated chocolate-hazelnut spreads (and bars, but a team can only be asked to eat so much sugar in a single day!).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe CriteriaA good gianduja spread needs the right balance of chocolate and hazelnut flavor. It must also be decadent. The best will be spreadable versions of gianduja bars, the solid form of these spreads, which taste like the most luscious melt-in-your-mouth truffles. The serving size is small, 1-2 tablespoons, so it should exude luxury in just a tiny bite. It cannot taste sickly sweet or unpleasantly coat your tongue. And, of course, the spread must spread! Weird clumping and oily separation simply will NOT do.
Our favorite spreads had the highest concentration of hazelnuts. The top spreads all had hazelnut as their first ingredient, and the ones we liked the least had sugar as their first ingredient. Our top pick boasts 50% hazelnuts.The same brand also had the most minimal ingredient list—no emulsifiers, cocoa butter, flavorings, or other nuts. Other top contenders all had high hazelnut content but notably also had emulsifiers listed in their ingredient lists. The spreads at the bottom of the pack contained more sugar, cocoa butter, and emulsifiers, a few had preservatives, and some even included other nuts (gasp!).
All of these spreads were pre-mixed, poured into a bowl, and labeled with a corresponding number. Our vessels for testing were small pieces of generic, sliced white bread since most people aren’t eating these right out of the jar (No judgment if you are. Everyone should do this at least 3129x in a lifetime.). They were asked to rate the spreads on flavor, texture, and chocolate-to-hazelnut ratio. I also prompted them with the question: “How would you use this spread?” This aimed to determine if they’d be inclined to use a spread for something other than spreading on toast. A dessert, perhaps? Slathered on breakfast? Or maybe just as the first of 3129 spoonfuls straight out of the jar.
Anyway, it's important to note that these spreads have a long shelf life; we're talking years, not months. Our favorite jar had an expiration date of next year (2025, if you’re reading this well into the future), and some less spreadable options listed dates in the next few months. Since brands do not list the production date on the label, it's impossible to know exactly how old they are. Do yourself a favor and pick a spread with a long life ahead; it'll give you more time to enjoy it, though I'm willing to bet it'll disappear from your pantry fairly quickly.
On to our rankings.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Contenders* Marco Colazani Cacao e Nocciole Crema Spalmabile * Rigoni di Asiago Organic Nocciolata Classic Hazelnut Spread * Crema Novi Gianduja Spread * Nutella * Eataly Gianduja Spread * Barbero Crema Spalmabile al Gianduia * San Cassiano Gianduja Cream with Hazelnuts and Cocoa * Caffarel Gianduia Cream Hazelnut Spread * Maison Nocciola Piemonte Gianduja Hazelnut Spread
Editor's Note: We also tasted two spreads that we did not include in the results. Trader Joe's Cocoa Almond Spread was a well-liked Nutella-like alternative, but since it's made from almonds, it did not qualify for the test. Ghia's Ghianduja Crunch Hazelnut Spread should really be considered a super crunchy topping rather than a spread, as it was so full of almonds and puffed quinoa that it was also excluded from the results.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe RankingsMarco Colzani Cacao e Nocciole Crema Spalmabile, 3.7/5(50% Hazelnuts)
Marco Colzani’s spread was the clear winner. All but one of our tasters ranked this spread with top marks. Genevieve thought the hazelnut and chocolate were perfectly balanced. It was smooth and spreadable, and more than one person compared it to Ferrero Rocher. Amanda said, “This is more hazelnut-y, which is what I want, so this is the correct level of chocolate.” We collectively decided this was our idea of what gianduja should taste like.
Maison Nocciola Piemonte Gianduja Hazelnut Spread, 3.58/5(52% Hazelnuts)
This was a very pleasantly spreadable gianduja. It was a little more liquidy, but that made it easier to spread—a plus everyone felt compelled to mention. Is there such a thing as too much hazelnut when you're eating gianduja? For one person in our group, the hazelnut flavor was a little too strong. But generally, the group loved the taste. The color led us to expect a chocolate-forward flavor, but we were wrong. This spread delivered on its promise of 52% hazelnut.
Caffarel Gianduia Cream Hazelnut Spread, 3.56/5(40% Hazelnuts)
The hazelnut-forward flavor of Caffarel's spread was a pleasant plus to some. We all noticed that it was creamy. Like, it was very creamy! Genevieve called it "really thick and luscious." But did the richness result in point deductions? The viscosity was definitely a problem. I had so much trouble mixing this spread because it was so thick that I broke a knife. Yes, that’s what I get for using plastic.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezEataly Gianduja Spread, 3.5/5(50% Hazelnuts)
Eataly's store brand also fared well with the group and got high marks in the flavor category. Everyone considered it a “good” or “solid” choice. Several noticed that it had a nice hazelnut flavor. The texture was creamy, but some people noted graininess from the sugar. Genevieve wrote it was "not too sweet, which is nice, but it definitely leans towards milk chocolate."
Nutella, 3.15/5(13% Hazelnuts)
Several clocked the sweetness; Genevieve compared it to milk chocolate, a less-than-delighted comment from our resident pastry wiz. Two people correctly guessed that this was Nutella. However, it received high praise in the spreadability department. Our business development lead Erin thought it was “perfectly smooth to spread and consume.” I’ll have to agree with her there. Nutella is creamy and doesn’t separate, which is certainly part of the appeal.
Crema Novi Gianduja Spread, 3/5(45% Hazelnuts)
The consensus on Crema Novi was that it was very middle-of-the-road. Only one taster wholeheartedly approved of this spread. Associate photo director Jordan said, “This is my favorite one by far.” Several members noted the oil separation, making it easy to spread but less appetizing. I promise I made every effort to mix this puppy, but it did not want to stay together! Genevieve pointed out, "I'm really not getting much chocolate!" And she wasn't the only one.
Rigoni di Asiago Organic Nocciolata Classic Hazelnut Spread, 2.7/5(Hazelnut percentage unclear)
This was another sweet contender! We struggled to consume the recommended serving size (1 tablespoon) on our bread squares. Amanda even reported stomach trouble. Most thought the texture was a positive; Genevieve even said, “It’s smooth and drapes nicely.” There wasn't enough chocolate or hazelnut, and it had a hint of artificial chocolate taste. It tasted more like a poor-quality chocolate spread than a proper chocolate hazelnut spread.
Barbero Crema Spalmabile al Gianduia, 2.13/5(45% Hazelnut paste)
The flavor was OK, but the texture was distracting. Our tasters called it clumpy, chunky, and sticky. Genevieve said, "Oh my god, this is like the peanut sludge that won't come out of the bottom of your jar!" In the section where I asked how they might use this, multiple people replied, "I wouldn't."
San Cassiano Gianduja Cream with Hazelnuts and Cocoa, 1.9/5(15.5% Hazelnut paste)
Was there an artificial sweetener added to this gianduja spread? No. Was there corn syrup in it? Also no! Did bubblegum somehow accidentally get mixed all up in there?!?! Almost certainly not! And yet…
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOur Testing MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted with brands completely hidden and without discussion among tasters that could influence results. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample 1 first, while taster B will taste sample 6 first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets (Google docs) ranking the samples for various criteria. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation of actual results possible.
Serious Eats / Tyler RoelandWith the seasons changing soon, it’s time to switch up some kitchen equipment, and what better way to kick that off than with Labor Day deals? We spend our days testing kitchen gear to find the best blenders, air fryers, and Dutch ovens for your homes, and we can’t help but feel excited when they’re on sale. We rounded up some of the best deals on our favorites, including these super absorbent dish towels and these chip-resistant pasta bowls.
The Best Labor Day Kitchen Deals, at a Glance: Our Favorite Blender of 10 Years: Vitamix 5200 Blender * The Best Instant Read Thermometer: ThermoWorks Thermapen ONE * The Best Air Fryer: Instant Vortex Plus Air Fryer * The Best Dutch Oven: Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Round Dutch Oven * The Best Gas Griddle: Weber 36-Inch Gas Griddle * The Most Absorbent Dish Towels: Zeppoli Classic Dish Towels * A Great Insulated Tumbler: Yeti Rambler Straw Mug * The Most Accurate Electric Kettle: Fellow Stagg EKG Electric Gooseneck Kettle * The Best Affordable Coffee Grinder with a Scale: OXO Brew Conical Burr Coffee Grinder with Scale * The Best Cast Iron Skillet: Lodge 10.25-Inch Cast Iron Skillet * The Best Wok: Yosukata Carbon Steel Wok * The Best Pasta Bowls: Y YHY Pasta Bowls*
Vitamix 5200 BlenderAmazonFor 10 years and running, the Vitamix 5200 has been our top blender pick. Be it almond milk or frozen margaritas, the powerful motor on this blender can blitz through anything. During our tests, the blender left no visible pulp in smoothies and soups, and it never once showed signs of struggle, no matter what we threw in it. At $120 off, it’s a worthy investment as we enter soup season.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyThermoWorks Thermapen ONEThermoWorksIt’s well known that we’re big fans of the Thermapen ONE. It’s been the top-performing instant-read thermometer for years thanks to its lightning-fast read time (less than three seconds) and adjustable probe that lets you temp foods from any angle. Right now, ThermoWorks has a 25% off Labor Day discount on the Thermapen ONE.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinInstant Vortex Plus Air FryerAmazonThe Instant Vortex air fryer produces perfectly crispy-crunchy chicken wings and fries. Its generous 6-quart basket promotes even frying, and the clearly labeled preset buttons are simple to operate. It’s been one of our editor’s air fryer of choice for years, and it’s on sale right now for 23% off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreInstant Pot Pro 10-in-1 Pressure CookerAmazonThe world of Instant Pots is so vast it’s not always easy to choose one. Our favorite, the Instant Pot Pro, was a clear winner during our tests. With a digital panel, control knob, and a steam release switch, it’s easy to use and pressurizes quickly. Plus, it has a stabilized inner pot—no spinning! Grab it for 24% off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreLe Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Round Dutch OvenAmazonThis Dutch oven doesn’t even need an explanation. Le Creuset has been in our kitchens for decades, and after years of testing, the Le Creuset Dutch oven still reigns as the top pick. It heats evenly, cleans easily, and looks great on the dinner table.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWeber 36-Inch Gas GriddleAmazonOur favorite flat-top gas griddle, the Weber gas griddle, produces evenly browned grilled cheeses and perfectly sizzles bacon. It also has an expansive cooktop that can accommodate large batches of food, and the burners are easy to ignite.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreZeppoli Classic Dish TowelsAmazonOffering an impressive 140% absorbency rate during our kitchen towel tests, the Zeppoli dish towels are about $1 apiece right now. They’re durable enough for everyday use and thick enough to wrap around the handle of a hot pan or pot.
Serious Eats / Henry WortockYeti Rambler Straw MugREIOne of our favorite insulated tumblers is the Yeti Rambler straw mug. It comes in various sizes to accommodate your hydration needs and has a tight-fitting lid that keeps beverages inside. Right now, the Agave Teal colorway is on sale at REI.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmFellow Stagg EKG Electric Gooseneck KettleAmazonThe Fellow Stagg electric kettle is 20% off. During our tests, the gooseneck spout poured water out smoothly, and the control dial can set the temperature down to a specific degree. It’s also loved by many of our editors and used in their homes throughout the year.
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezOXO Brew Conical Burr Coffee Grinder with ScaleAmazonThis upgraded version of our top affordable coffee grinder pick, the OXO burr grinder, has a built-in scale that automatically measures how much coffee to grind based on your selected amount of grams or cups. Instead of getting a separate scale for measuring coffee, you can streamline your mornings with this 40% off grinder.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreLodge 10.25-Inch Cast Iron SkilletAmazonFor years, we’ve recommended the Lodge cast iron skillet because of its durability and even heating. From fried eggs to steak, the Lodge outperformed other pans in our tests and made the best golden cornbread.
As you can see, cast iron skillets come in a myriad of sheens and colors, with some sporting a dark patina and others more of a coppery tone.Yosukata Carbon Steel WokAmazonThis affordable wok makes flavorful stir-frys and heats evenly across the surface. As our favorite wok, it’s pre-seasoned and has a wooden handle that stays cool over the stovetop.
The best woks were responsive, easy to season, made of carbon steel, and had comfortable handles.Serious Eats / Grace KellyY YHY Pasta BowlsAmazonThese pasta bowls are elegant yet durable and hold in saucy pastas with ease. During our tests, the gently sloping sides were comfortable to hold, and the chip-resistant ceramic was a plus for clumsy households.
Serious Eats / Caroline LangeAnova Culinary Precision Vacuum Sealer ProAmazonBe it wet or dry, food is sealed up expertly with the Anova vacuum sealer pro. In our tests, it had a quick refresh rate between sealings and produced seals that stood up to hot temperatures and long-term freezer storage.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonFellow Clara Insulated Coffee MakerAmazonThe Fellow Clara makes the best-tasting French-pressed coffee. The heat retention was unmatched during our tests, and its weighted handle makes pouring coffee easier and smoother.
The Spruce Eats / Isaac NunnLodge 12-Inch Cast Iron Skillet with Dual Assist HandlesAmazonCast iron can be heavy, which is why we recommend this Lodge cast iron skillet with dual assist handles. It makes maneuvering the pan a lot easier on the wrists, and the skillet delivers the same even heat retention and distribution from Lodge that we know and love.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyStaub Cast Iron 12-Inch Square Grill PanAmazonDuring our tests, Staub’s grill pan was the best enamel grill pan we reviewed. It delivered noticeable grill marks on burgers, pork chops, and zucchini slices. Right now, it’s 32% off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonMade In Pie DishAmazonFor a stoneware pie plate, the Made In pie dish produced golden crusts that were evenly browned. The rim also made crimping dough easy during our tests. Grab it for $10 off this Labor Day.
Serious Eats / Grace KellySwedish Wholesale Swedish DishclothsWe consistently recommend Swedish dishcloths because they’re durable and absorbent, perfect for sopping up all sorts of kitchen messes. Plus, they air-fried the fastest during our tests.
Serious Eats / Eric KingMercer Culinary 8-Inch Chef’s KnifeAmazonThis affordable chef’s knife is a great blade to put through the paces whether you’re a beginner or an avid cook. During our tests, it stayed super sharp and sliced through butternut squash with ease. For only $40, it’s a small investment for a knife you’ll reach for daily.
Serious Eats / Dera BurresonFAQsHow long will Labor Day deals last?Labor Day falls on Monday, September 2nd this year. While most deals will run through September 2nd, some sales are extended beyond Labor Day. We will keep this document updated as discounts change.
Where can I find other Labor Day deals?We put together a roundup of kitchen gear Serious Eats staffers are eyeing this Labor Day.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * She’s the resident deals tracker and keeps an eye on all our favorites for discounts. * This Labor Day weekend, she’s finally going to grab a pack of Swedish dishcloths.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeIn 1991, the Miami Herald boldly declared that King Ranch casserole had a “Texas-size fan club.” I am not surprised: the dish, which consists of shredded chicken, corn tortillas, tomatoes, bell peppers, and plenty of cheese layered with cream of chicken soup, truly is the ultimate comfort food. Recipes for King Ranch casserole—also known as King Ranch chicken or King Ranch chicken casserole—abound on the internet and in old cookbooks. Some Texans, including cookbook author Sandy Pollock (one half of The Casserole Queens), believe the dish embodies the taste of the Lone Star State. Though the dish is named for King Ranch in Kingsville, Texas, the recipe’s actual origins remain a mystery.
A Brief History of King Ranch Casserole“No one seems to know who invented it,” the journalist Anne Dingus wrote in a 1989 issue of Texas Monthly, referring to King Ranch casserole. Dingus points to chilaquiles—a dish with similar ingredients—as the inspiration for the casserole. “But the dish owes as much to post–World War Two cooking, when casseroles made with canned soups were the height of space-age cuisine,” she writes. “Because they could be made quickly and frozen for later use, casseroles liberated the lady of the house.” The recipe quickly made its way through the country’s women’s clubs, with many putting their own spins on it by adjusting the seasoning, using different cheeses, and even incorporating other ingredients such as mushrooms.
Another writer, Rebecca White of The Dallas Morning News, suggests that the original inspiration for the dish dates further back, tracing it to 1913 when recipes for creamed chicken and chicken à la king were widely prepared by home cooks. White credits James Beard’s 1946 book The Fireside Cookbook with further popularizing creamed chicken by demonstrating the “versatility and simplicity” of the dish, which “became the basis of the casserole movement.” “Many beloved American casseroles like ‘the King,’” she writes, “are in fact Creamed Chicken with variations.”
Today, King Ranch casserole remains a beloved dish both in and outside of Texas. While many recipes for the dish call for rotisserie chicken and canned soup for ease, we wanted to come up with a flavorful, from-scratch version. The recipe below, from our Birmingham, Alabama-based test kitchen colleague Elizabeth Mervosh, relies on a few tips and tricks for a casserole that’s simple to prepare, full of flavor, and supremely satisfying. Here’s how to make it.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt Glaze4 Tips for Making King Ranch CasseroleToast the spices. The chicken in this casserole gets its warm, punchy flavor from toasted cumin seeds, which are incorporated into the broth used to poach the chicken. Heating the cumin helps draw out its volatile compounds, resulting in more complex aromas and flavors.
Poach your chicken. For the most tender chicken, we recommend poaching it in a chicken broth lightly spiced with toasted cumin seeds and jalapeños. “You don’t realize how dry and pasty rotisserie chicken is until you taste the poached chicken in the casserole,” Elizabeth says, calling the poaching a “game changer.” As Daniel found in his testing for his poached chicken recipe, starting the chicken in cold (rather than simmering) liquid helps gently bring the chicken up to temperature, resulting in succulent meat that’s not overcooked.
If you happen to have leftover chicken or want to use rotisserie chicken instead for ease, skip the poaching and add two teaspoons of ground cumin and a quarter teaspoon of cayenne pepper to the flour and chili powder in step five of the recipe below.
Reach for chicken bouillon. To make the casserole base, most recipes either call for using canned cream of chicken soup or thickening the broth with flour and sour cream. Here, we opt for the latter—but incorporate a touch of granulated chicken bouillon to replicate the savory flavor of canned soup. The result is a sauce that’s light, creamy, and packed full of poultry flavor.
Crisp up your tortillas. Texturally, there’s not much difference between using untoasted or toasted corn tortillas in this casserole since they are going to soften when they cook either way. But taking the time to briefly toast the tortillas until they’re crisp highlights the corn tortillas’ nutty, earthy notes. Skip the step if you’re tight on time, and if you don’t have tortillas, feel free to use tortilla chips instead—just keep in mind the layers won’t be as even and they won’t be quite as flavorful as tortillas.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeFor the Poached Chicken: In a medium pot set over medium heat, toast cumin seeds, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 40 seconds. Add chicken, chicken broth, chiles, and salt. Increase heat to medium-high and cook until broth is just shy of a simmer and the temperature registers between 150º and 160ºF (65 to 70ºC) on an instant-read thermometer, about 12 minutes. (See notes.)
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeReduce heat to low to maintain the temperature of the broth. (To help maintain the temperature, increase or reduce the heat as needed, and/or re-position the pot over stovetop burner so that the heat source only partially touches bottom of the pot.) Cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest portion of chicken registers 150°F (65ºC), 30 to 35 minutes. Carefully transfer chicken to a large bowl, and let rest until chicken is cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes. Using 2 forks, shred chicken; set aside. Using a fine-mesh strainer set over a large bowl, strain broth; discard solids. Set aside 2 1/2 cups (592ml) broth. Reserve remaining broth for another use.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeWhile chicken cooks, prepare the casserole: Adjust oven racks to top third and lower third positions and preheat oven to 400ºF (205ºC). Arrange tortillas on 2 large rimmed baking sheets (they will be slightly overlapping). Lightly spray both sides with cooking spray. (Alternatively, use pastry brush to lightly brush tortillas with a thin layer of neutral oil.)
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeBake until slightly crisp and browned in spots, about 14 minutes, flipping tortillas halfway through and rotating baking sheets between top and bottom racks. Remove from oven and let cool until ready to use. (Tortillas will continue to crisp as they cool.)
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeIn a large pot or Dutch oven set over medium-high, melt butter. Add onion, bell pepper, poblano, and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 8 minutes. Add flour, chili powder, and granulated chicken bouillon. Cook, stirring often, until fragrant and flour just begins to stick to bottom of the pot, about 1 minute. Add diced tomatoes and green chiles, cream, and 2 1/2 cups reserved broth; bring to a simmer over medium-high. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in cilantro, sour cream, salt, and shredded chicken until thoroughly combined.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeTo assemble, place 6 tortillas in the bottom of a 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Spoon 3 cups of the chicken mixture over tortillas, and top with 1/2 cup of Monterey Jack cheese. Repeat with second layer. Top with remaining 6 tortillas, remaining 2 cups chicken mixture, and remaining 1 1/2 cups cheese.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeBake, uncovered, at 400°F on top third rack of oven until bubbling and browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Garnish with additional cilantro.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeSpecial EquipmentMedium pot, rimmed baking sheet, large pot or Dutch oven, 9- by 13-inch baking dish
NotesCrushed tortilla chips can be used in place of the crisper tortillas, but they won’t yield even layers or be as flavorful as the tortillas.
If you don’t have an instant read thermometer, the water should be about poaching temperature when wisps of steam begin to rise from the water.
If you’d like to skip the poaching step and substitute rotisserie chicken, add 2 teaspoons ground cumin and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper along with the flour and chili powder in step 5.
A combination of Monterey Jack and cheddar cheese can be used, if desired.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe casserole can be made 1 day in advance. Prepare casserole through step 6. Let cool slightly, uncovered, at room temperature for 1 hour. Cover with aluminum foil and refrigerate up to 24 hours. When ready to serve, uncover and let casserole come to room temperature for 30 minutes while oven preheats to 400ºF (205ºC). Bake, uncovered, until bubbling and browned and casserole is heated through, about 25 minutes, loosely covering with aluminum foil to prevent overbrowning, if needed. Garnish and serve as directed.
Leftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days, but the tortillas will soften as they sit.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezGrowing up in central New Jersey, I was very much in tune with seasonal agriculture. Farms are surprisingly plentiful in the area, just a few dozen miles from New York City. I kid you not, little ol' Jersey, the fifth smallest state in the union, is actually one of the biggest agricultural producers in the United States (#11 this year). Famous New Jersey tomatoes certainly get their due, but corn is the true regional all-star. So, if you're among those who wonder why New Jersey is called the Garden State, it's not "because it's too hard to fit 'Oil and Petrochemical Refinery State' on a license plate," as suggested by Gracie Hart from Miss Congeniality.
I visited these farm stands every Sunday growing up in NJ, and when my grandma came up from Virginia, my dad and I would always take her to get Jersey corn. Long before Serious Eats editorial director Daniel Gritzer tested the very best ways to cook corn, my family was popping half-shucked ears into the microwave. But I hadn't considered that corn could be a fantastic flavoring agent until I moved to New York for college. As my culinary world expanded, so did my appreciation for the versatility of corn. I discovered the joys of cereal milk ice cream, raw corn in tomato salads, and sweet corn pudding. Corn has become a regular part of my savory cooking, though it was less common in my desserts—until now.
Corn crème brûlée is truly the essence of summer corn—sweet but not too sweet and creamy but not too rich. The heavy cream, milk, and blended corn kernels harmonize in a lighter than expected way. And then there's the caramelized crust. My colleagues can attest that I've been eager to brûlée something for a while. In the food corner of TikTok, all sorts of sweet and savory foods are being torched, from lemon posset to mashed potatoes, for reasons that remain unclear. OK, maybe because it's FUN to wield a blowtorch.
But what about something that is actually meant to be brûléed? Enter my corn crème brûlée: a traditional choice with a twist. Now that the corn husks have settled and the butane tank is empty, I have a summertime corn recipe I'll be proud to serve again and again. Read on for my tips on making this summery dessert and for the full recipe.
4 Tips for Making the Best Corn Crème Brûlée1. Get the freshest, in-season sweet corn. Fresh corn is the key to getting the pure corn flavor to infuse your milk, so make sure you get the good stuff. Check your corn by peeling off some of the husks before you buy it. Make sure it's not rotting or mushy. If you're still unsure, just taste a few kernels. Would you eat this raw? If the answer is yes, then you're good to go. More on what to look for in our guide to Field Corn vs. Sweet Corn. 2. Choose the right vessel. You need a shallow, wide baking dish for the maximum amount of crackling caramelized sugar. I chose round brûlée dishes, but feel free to go with the traditional oval shape. They're great for other small desserts, too. Regular six-ounce, oven-safe ramekins will work here too; just increase the bake time by five to 10 minutes. 3. Use enough sugar in the topping. The amount of sugar you'll need depends on the surface area of your baking dish. Be sure you use enough, or your caramelized sugar crust will not brown evenly. Nobody wants that! And the thicker your layer of sugar, the thicker the layer of caramelized crust. But while you shouldn't use too little sugar, you also shouldn't use too much: A shatteringly crisp crust that cracks with a spoon is what you're after, so don't overdo it or you'll end up with a topping that's too hard to break through. 4. Use a blowtorch. There are various kitchen torches available in different sizes and price ranges, so get one that works for you. I am confident that you will find a reason to use it again. Start slowly with your torching until you get comfortable. Gently swirl the flame over the sugar until it melts together and then begins to brown. It's fun! You can experiment with how dark you want your crust to be. When you're done and the crust has cooled, you should be able to "clink-clink" your spoon before it cracks. It's very satisfying.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 325°F (163°C). Set four shallow 8-ounce ramekins (or four 6-ounce standard ramekins) in a 9- by 13-inch baking dish; set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCut kernels off cobs (see the best way to cut corn from the cob here); you should have about 1 cup (320g) of kernels.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a medium saucepan, combine corn kernels and cobs, cream, milk, and salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat, cover, and let steep for 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing tongs, remove corn cobs from cream and discard. Carefully transfer cream mixture and corn kernels to a blender. Blend until smooth and creamy, about 15 seconds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a small bowl, whisk yolks, sugar, and vanilla, if using, to combine. Add this sugar-egg mixture into corn cream in the blender and blend until combined, about 10 seconds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSet a fine-mesh strainer over a 4-cup measuring cup. Pour custard base through, pressing to express liquid from solids. Divide custard base evenly among the ramekins. (For shallow ramekins, fill with 6 ounces of liquid each. For standard ramekins, fill them to the lip.) You may have a few tablespoons of extra custard.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCarefully transfer baking dish to middle rack of oven. Pour just-boiled—but not boiling—water (around 180º to 200ºF or 88º to 93ºC) into baking dish until it comes 2/3 of the way up the ramekins; be careful not to splash water into ramekins. Bake until custards are just set, 30 to 35 minutes. Remove from oven, and, using towels, oven mitts, or silicone-coated tongs, carefully transfer ramekins to a cooling rack. Allow custards to cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Refrigerate until set, uncovered, at least 3 hours.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo finish and serve, top the surface of each ramekin with an even layer of sugar (about 1 to 2 teaspoons per ramekin). Working in a circular motion, use a kitchen blowtorch to pass a flame over the top of each crème brûlée, 1 to 2 inches away from the surface of the custard, until the sugar has caramelized and melted into a glossy, crackling sheet and turned golden brown. (How closely and how long you should torch your custards will depend on the strength of your blowtorch; watch the sugar carefully as you pass the torch over the surface of the custard to avoid scorching your crème brûlées.) Serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentFour 8-ounce ramekins (5-inch in diameter) or four standard 6-ounce ramekins, 9- by 13-inch baking dish, blender, whisk, fine-mesh strainer, kitchen blowtorch
Make-Ahead and StorageThe custards can be made through step 7 up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated uncovered. Wait to caramelize the sugar topping until you are ready to serve; after an hour, the crisp sugar topping will soften and liquify.
Getty Images / Mirage CHave you ever seen a salt shaker without a pepper shaker beside it? The culinary duo is practically inseparable—like peanut butter and jelly or macaroni and cheese. But while black pepper enjoys a primacy that puts it at the center of the dining table, white pepper is usually relegated to the back of the spice rack or pantry (if you even have it at all), despite the fact that the two are derived from the same plant. While black pepper is often regarded as an everyday seasoning, white pepper is more of a specialist, lending its earthy flavor to specific French, Chinese, and Vietnamese dishes.
Black pepper is so ubiquitous that it can be easy to take for granted, but within the world of black peppercorns—which actually includes white peppercorns, which we’ll touch on later—there are notable differences, and understanding them can elevate your seasoning game by leaps and bounds. I chatted with Alex Wilkens, Vice President of Product at The Spice House, and Olivia Roszkowski, chef-instructor of plant-based culinary arts at the Institute of Culinary Education’s New York City campus, to learn more about the differences between black pepper and white pepper.
How Black Peppercorns and White Peppercorns Are Grown and Processed“It might be surprising, but black and white peppercorns both come from the same berries on the pepper vine,” says Wilkens. The difference between black peppercorns and white peppercorns is a matter of processing. Black peppercorns are the vine’s green fruits, picked when young and greenish to orange in color. They’re harvested in clusters and dried in the sun or by machine until the outer shell, or pericarp, shrinks and becomes wrinkled and dark brown.
White peppercorns.Getty Images / Yama HavalerossiProcessing white peppercorns takes an additional step—removing the pericarp to reveal the smooth cream-colored pearls of pepper within before drying. According to The Washington Post, producers do this by soaking the peppercorns in water anywhere from two days to two weeks, which softens the outer layer and contributes an additional fermented flavor and musky aroma.
What’s the Difference Between Black Pepper and White Pepper?Black peppercorns.Getty Images / Mr. TANAPATPHUENGPAK CreativeBlack peppercorns (Piper nigrum) are native to India and have been cultivated since 2,000 BC. They grow on vines that thrive in tropical climates, with long tendrils of drupes (berry-like fruits with an inner seed) trailing down like verdant Nerd Ropes. The peppercorn itself is the inner seed, and the spice's sharp flavor comes from the antioxidant compound piperine, which is concentrated in this pit.
Making up a staggering 20% of the global spice trade, black pepper is one of the world’s most popular spices. There are many different varieties of black pepper, each with its own flavorful profile—some with a bright pop of acidic heat and others with a cozy backdrop of warmth. Black peppercorns can present a wide range of characteristics depending on the variety, but in general, they can be, according to Wilkens, “fruity, earthy, piney, and hot.” White peppercorns, on the other hand, have a uniquely musky flavor profile and a more aggressive heat level due to the fact that peppercorn heat is largely concentrated in the white center.
What Are the Best Uses for Black and White Pepper?Serious Eats / Julia EstradaGround black pepper is essential for seasoning everyday dishes in many cuisines. Wilkens points to Tellicherry black peppercorns as a good all-purpose pepper to load into your peppermill. “Grown in southwest India along the Malabar coast, Tellicherry pepper has remained the gold standard since the East-West spice trade began centuries ago,” says Wilkens. Black pepper can also provide the backbone in spice blends and dry rubs. Though it often acts as a back-up singer, black pepper anchors dishes like cacio e pepe, pepper gravy, and steak au poivre.
White pepper has long been favored in classical French recipes, including foundational sauces like béchamel and soubise. “One of the advantages to using white pepper in French cooking is that it disappears into white sauces, creamy soups, or whipped potatoes,” says Wilkens. It’s the presentation, rather than the specific flavor, that’s important in this case, so you can certainly make a beurre blanc with black pepper if you don’t mind seeing flecks in your butter sauce.
White pepper’s musky flavor also pairs well with warming spices like cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and ginger; the latter three ingredients are combined with white pepper in the French spice blend quatre épices, which brings a rich fullness to savory applications like pâtés, as well as desserts like crepes and apple tarts.
Sold both whole and ground, white pepper is also common in East Asian culinary traditions, especially in Chinese cuisine, where it lends an aromatic touch to dishes like hot and sour soup and pork stir-fry. “White pepper is also especially common in Vietnamese cuisine, such as in pho broths,” says Roszkowski, where its earthy notes complement spices like star anise and ginger.
Can You Use Black and White Pepper Interchangeably?There is some disagreement around whether black and white pepper can be used interchangeably. Roszkowski says the two are not exactly interchangeable, but rather, better suited to specific culinary applications. Wilkens, on the other hand, suggests that the two can be swapped, as long as you understand what you’re working with: “Black pepper is a perfectly acceptable substitute for white pepper in most recipes, preferably when it’s a very fine grind of black pepper, if that’s an option,” says Wilkens.
While Wilkens says black pepper has a milder heat than white pepper, Serious Eats culinary editor Genevieve Yam actually finds black pepper punchier, and calls white pepper more delicate and subtle, so in some cases white pepper "may be better at highlighting the nuanced flavors of a dish,” she says. The two have different flavor profiles, so which is more pungent really depends on who's tasting it and even the specific peppercorns.
So, can you use white pepper instead of black pepper and vice versa? “Definitely,” says Yam. “As long as you accept that what you're getting is going to be different! It's like toasted green tea vs. untoasted green tea—both delicious teas, but with their own distinct flavors.” Ultimately, the best bet when swapping black pepper for white or vice versa (and really any spice or seasoning substitution you make in cooking) is to start on the lighter end and taste as you go, since you can add seasoning, but you can't take it away.
The TakeawayWhile black and white pepper can sometimes be used interchangeably, white pepper is preferred in lightly colored dishes where visible flecks of black pepper would be undesirable. Due to the fermenting process that it undergoes, white pepper has a subtle muskiness that can either complement or detract from a dish, which should also be considered when substituting one for the other. Within the category of black pepper, there are many varieties that lend unique characteristics to dishes, so Wilkens urges cooks to explore different peppercorn blends. “You might find a new all-time favorite, or you might discover that you can’t live with just one pepper in your spice pantry.”
Serious EatsMy family is big on Kenji’s channa masala. With staple ingredients like canned chickpeas and tomatoes, ginger, garlic, and a few basic spices, it doesn’t take long to put together, so it’s an easy way to get a flavorful dinner on the table, especially on a weeknight. And while it’s a super simple recipe, the dish is never good unless I make it—or so my family says—so I’m tasked with channa masala-ing at least once a month. The beauty of this monthly ritual is that I’ve zeroed in on one technique that really cuts down on cooking time: adding baking soda to speed up the process of browning onions. It’s such an impactful tip that I’ve started using it in other dishes, and it saves me about five to ten minutes, cutting the onion cooking time almost in half. Here’s how.
What Happens When You Add Baking Soda to OnionsPH has a big impact on the Maillard reaction, a chemical process that encourages browning in foods when they are heated. The higher the pH, the faster the reaction occurs. Onions are only at a pH level of around 5 out of 14, making them a more acidic ingredient, but an alkaline ingredient like baking soda can increase the pH level of onions, encouraging browning in a shorter amount of time.
Baking soda also softens onions; its high pH level, which ranges from 8.3 to 9, weakens the pectins in the vegetables, causing their cell walls to break down. The faster the onions break down, the faster chemicals are released, which means not only faster cooking, but also faster flavor and color development.
How to Add Baking Soda to Your Onions to Speed BrowningIncorporating baking soda into your recipes to speed up onion browning is simple. Heat oil in a skillet or whatever vessel you plan to cook the onions in, then add your chopped, sliced, or diced onions, followed immediately by the baking soda. You’ll want to use about 1/4 teaspoon of baking soda per one pound of onions. Make sure the baking soda is evenly incorporated with the onions, then allow the onions to cook until beginning to brown, stirring frequently. Once the onions start to leave a brown coating on the pan, add one tablespoon of water and scrape up all the brown bits. Repeat this process until the onions are a deep brown color. The whole process should take about 10 minutes for diced onions cooked over medium-high heat, but you'll need to adjust the time based on how finely the onions are cut.
When You Should—and Shouldn't—Add Baking Soda to OnionsWhile this technique is great for quickly browning your onions, there are a few caveats. The way the baking soda breaks down the onion results in it losing a lot of its shape and taking on a softer, almost mushy texture. For a dish like channa masala or butter chicken where the onions are meant to blend in with the sauce, that’s not a problem—you wouldn’t want crunchy onions studded throughout dishes like those anyway. But when you want your onions to retain their structure in a recipe like French onion soup or Oklahoma-style onion burgers, you’ll want to skip this technique entirely, otherwise you’ll end up with gloopy onions throughout your dish. And while this tip does speed up browning time, it still takes about 10 minutes, which is why Swetha Sivakumar skips onions entirely in her 10-minute chana masala recipe.
Baking soda also prevents onions from becoming too sweet, which, again, is warranted in certain dishes. But this hack won’t help in recipes that rely on the sweet, caramelized flavor of onions. Given the sometimes soapy notes that baking soda can give off, you’ll want to make sure the dish you’re using it in has enough flavors to mask that.
It’s also important to note that while this technique works with white, yellow, and red onions, the baking soda does give red onions a bluish-green color that, in my experience and opinion, is not very appealing. But once the onions are incorporated with other ingredients to form a sauce, the color isn’t typically noticeable.
The TakeawayAdding baking soda when you’re cooking onions is a great way to speed up the browning process. However, this technique works best in recipes that don’t rely on (1) onions retaining their structure or (2) the sweet flavor of onions. But if you’re like me and want (or, really, are forced) to whip up a channa masala every month, baking soda is just what you need to save on time.
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowThere aren’t too many things in my kitchen I’d say I love. Sure, a great compost bin is helpful, but I draw the line at amorous feelings. But ask me about my reBowl and you’d better pull up a chair: I’ve got some things to say. This excellent mixing bowl is cleverly designed, durable, and comes in a handful of trendy colors (the cooking equipment trifecta, if you ask me). It’s a top-tier bowl for mixing batters and is also an excellent serving bowl. I own two, but I wish I had a dozen more.
What Is the reBowl For?Of course, the primary function of the reBowl is as a mixing bowl. I use it to mix meatballs, dress salad, and whisk scrambled eggs. But I reach for it just as frequently when I need a serving bowl. It’s certainly pretty enough to deserve a spot at the dinner table.
I also regularly eat lunch out of it, and I’m not the only one. Serious Eats' associate commerce editorial director Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm says, “I always find myself reaching for it for ginormous lunch salads.” Need a fruit bowl on the fly? The reBowl fits a bunch of bananas, a mango or two, a few apples, and a smattering of lemons beautifully.
What Makes the reBowl Great?The footed base keeps the reBowl steady when mixing and whisking.Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowThe reBowl is perfectly designed for, well, mixing items. It has a sturdy footed bottom which keeps it from slipping around my counter as I whisk together waffle batter or toss salad greens with a vinaigrette. I used to place a damp kitchen towel underneath flat-bottomed bowls to keep them from sliding, and I appreciate that the reBowl remains steady all on its own. The gently flared lip makes pouring easy, with minimal drips and spills. And at 2.75 quarts, it’s big enough to handle most recipes.
But that’s just one category of awesomeness. This mixing bowl is also virtually indestructible. I got my first reBowl to replace a limited-edition, discontinued ceramic bowl I bought for way too much money then promptly dropped on a ceramic floor. (Sigh.) The reBowl is microwave-safe and dishwasher-safe, and you couldn’t crack it if you tried. Unlike ceramic and metal mixing bowls, it doesn’t show scratches after whisking egg whites or whipped cream. It’s lightweight—about 13 ounces—which you know matters if you’ve ever lifted a heavy glass bowl full to the brim with cookie dough. And it nests, so you can stack a set without taking up an entire cabinet.
I asked Riddley why she likes the reBowl, since she also owns and loves one. Here’s her take: “I love this bowl. I've owned one for years and it looks good as new. It's also slightly fancier than plain ol' stainless steel.” Agreed!
What Are the Cons of the reBowl?Unlike metal or glass bowls, the reBowl can’t be used over heat. If you don’t regularly temper chocolate that may not be a deal-breaker, but it’s good to know. It doesn’t come with a lid, which makes me sad every time I have to put away leftovers.
Is the reBowl a Good Buy?I think it’s the best plastic mixing bowl you can buy. In fact, I’ll go so far as to say you should have more than one. I also own two reBoards, Material’s plastic cutting board made from the same blend of materials, and I use them very frequently since they're so lightweight and easy to clean. It’s a safe bet that anything Material puts the “re-” treatment to, I will buy, use, and enjoy.
FAQsAre plastic mixing bowls dishwasher-safe? Most are, but you should check with the manufacturer before running your bowl through a cycle. The reBowl is dishwasher-safe, and I can report that it dries very quickly after hand-washing, too!
Is the reBowl a mixing bowl or serving bowl?It’s definitely both. The footed bottom keeps it steady during mixing, and it adds a bit of flair on a dinner table.
Why We’re the Experts* Rochelle Bilow is a commerce editor for Serious Eats. * Previously, she worked at Bon Appétit and Cooking Light, as well as a line cook and professional baker. * Rochelle has been reviewing kitchen equipment for three years. She has owned the reBowl for over a year and uses it almost daily.
Serious Eats / Francesca FasciglioneThere’s no such thing as a bad time to stock up on buy-it-for-life kitchen gear. This is especially true when there are so many Labor Day deals to grab on some of the best products we’ve tested over the years. When we asked Serious Eats staffers to share what they’re thinking of getting this Labor Day, the answers were predictably nerdy coming from the gear-heads on our staff, from super absorbent microfiber cloths to this impeccably accurate Fellow Stagg EKG kettle.
Editor-Recommended Labor Day Deals, at a Glance: The Best Pasta Bowls: Y YHY Pasta Bowls * One of the Best Insulated Tumblers: Hydro Flask Travel Tumbler * A Very Accurate Electric Kettle: Fellow Stagg EKG Electric Gooseneck Kettle * Super Absorbent Microfiber Cloths: Fixsmith Microfiber Cleaning Cloths * The Best Drawer Organizer: Pipishell Bamboo Drawer Organizer * The Best Mandoline Slicer: OXO Good Grips V-Blade Mandoline Slicer * The Best Kitchen Utensil Crock: Oggi Stainless Steel Jumbo Utensil Holder * A Great Set of Whiskey Glasses: Spiegelau Double Old Fashioned Glasses * A Personal Waffle Maker: Dash Mini Waffle Maker * The Best Budget Petty Knife*: Victorinox 6-Inch Fibrox Pro Chef's Knife
Y YHY Pasta BowlsAmazonI cannot lie: I am clumsy. I break dishes more often than I'd like to admit and recently smashed a couple of my favorite pasta bowls into smithereens. So, I'll be buying our favorite budget-friendly set while they’re on sale for just over $4 each. The bowls are made from elegant porcelain, have gently sloping walls, and are fairly durable. The latter is, of course, a HUGE pro for me. — Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, associate editorial director
Hydro Flask Travel TumblerAmazonI tested 11 insulated tumblers earlier this year and absolutely do not need another one. However, I simply cannot resist this ombre version from Hydro Flask. It's so very pretty and I truly believe I'll drink more water because of it. During my testing, the Hydro Flask performed well, too, with minimal leaking and a thick, silicone straw that was easy to sip from. — Riddley
Fellow Stagg EKG Electric Gooseneck KettleAmazonHave you ever loved a product so much that you feared it might be discontinued and lost to you forever? That is how I feel about my Fellow Stagg EKG Electric Gooseneck Kettle. I hesitated, at first, to put this on my countertop and take up much-coveted space in my kitchen, but I was wrong to resist. I use it more than my air fryer, milk frother, and most of the tools in my crock. I use it almost every day, even in the summer, and it's not because I drink tea or pour-over coffee every day: It's the fastest way to boil water for pasta and grains, or even to heat a package of ramen. Now that they're on sale, I'll probably get another one (or two), and a lucky friend or relative will benefit this holiday season. — Kelli Solomon, senior social media editor
Fixsmith Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, 12-PackAmazonThese are so great for wiping off my countertops, mirrors, and windows. I even polish my drinking glasses and actual eyeglasses with them sometimes! Though it isn't a food- or cooking-related item, I love using these cloths to clean up after I'm done cooking. — Genevieve Yam, culinary editor
Pipishell Bamboo Drawer OrganizerAmazonI hate to admit it, but my kitchen tools drawer is an absolute mess. It's filled rather haphazardly with whisks, spatulas, bench scrapers, and other little gadgets I've accumulated over the years. I've put off fixing this problem for too long, so I'm finally going to grab this Pipishell bamboo drawer organizer. It's our top pick, and it even expands to reveal more storage space for bulkier kitchen utensils—just what I need. — An Uong, commerce writer
OXO Good Grips V-Blade Mandoline SlicerAmazonEver since I bought this Serious Eats-recommended mandoline slicer, I've been using it almost weekly for all of my vegetable-slicing needs. I have a lot of friends who have been talking about those viral cucumber salads making their rounds on social media, so I might snag a few of these for some of them who have birthdays coming up! Sure, they may start off just using the mandoline to slice cucumbers, but they'll quickly realize how easy it is to use for other vegetables, too! — Yasmine Maggio, associate editor
Oggi Stainless Steel Jumbo Utensil HolderAmazonI have WAY too many utensils (because who doesn't need a dozen wooden spoons?) and it's high time I got another utensil crock to feed my habit. I'm leaning towards this big guy from Oggi, which we deemed the "Best Metal Utensil Crock" in our review. It has a weighted bottom, perfect for clumsy cooks like myself who are prone to knocking stuff over in a frantic attempt to grab a spatula as a grilled cheese burns—not speaking from experience here or anything. Not to mention it held 26 (!!) utensils in our capacity test. Sign. me. up. — Grace Kelly, commerce editor
Spiegelau Double Old Fashioned GlassesAmazonMy father-in-law is a notoriously difficult person to shop for around the holidays, but this time around, I'm eyeing these Spiegelau whiskey glasses that are perfect for cocktails, according to our tests. My father-in-law is the de facto bartender at any family get-together and these glasses have the perfect build for Old Fashioneds. Plus, they're stunning! — An
Dash Mini Waffle MakerAmazonI was not expecting to love this teeny-tiny appliance as much as I did. But after my review of waffle makers, I've gotta hand it to the Dash: It makes really good waffles! It'd be the perfect addition to any college dorm, but I'm definitely buying one for my family's weekend trips to our lake house. While it’s not on sale, the $10 price tag just can’t be beat. — Rochelle Bilow, commerce editor
Victorinox 6-Inch Fibrox Pro Chef's KnifeAmazonI’ve never had a petty knife (also known as a utility knife), but I’ve always wanted one because I have small hands and enjoy working with smaller knives. I’m eyeing this Victorinox utility knife that’s at just the right price point for someone who’s looking to experiment with petty knives (me). It was already our budget pick, and now that it’s 41% off, I might just have to try it out! — An
FAQsWhere can I find more Labor Day weekend deals?We’ve already published this roundup of early Labor Day deals and there’s an incoming roundup for the weekend.
How long do Labor Day sales last?Labor Day weekend sales typically last through Labor Day, which falls on Monday, September 2nd of this year. However, we’ll monitor deals for any continued discounts.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine * She’s tested equipment for Serious Eats for nearly two years.
This Labor Day weekend, she’ll be on the lookout for great deals on coffee gear, too.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSoon after beginning my research for this recipe, an email with the subject line “Moravian Sugar Cake” appeared in my inbox. I opened the message from my friend Nan to find a scanned handwritten recipe for Moravian sugar cake from an acquaintance who happened to be a member of the Lititz Moravian Church in Lititz, Pennsylvania. Vague instructions—“pat lightly,” “hole it,” and “put more butter”—were scrawled across a sheet of ruled notebook paper. “This is the old stand-by when the congregation bakes sugar cakes to sell,” Nan wrote.
Drenched in butter and topped with cinnamon sugar, the cake, which is made from an enriched yeasted dough, is often described in cookbooks as a "yeast-raised coffee cake," and though it has a cinnamon sugar topping that’s reminiscent of coffee cake, it’s slightly chewier, with a dimpled pattern that brings focaccia to mind. The sweet is a staple at church fundraisers in Pennsylvania, with many bakers relying on decades-old recipes like the one I received. Though Moravian sugar cakes are especially popular at Christmastime, churches and bakeries in Pennsylvania and North Carolina make and sell the cakes year-round.
A Brief History of Moravian Sugar CakeIn a 2019 edition of The Morning Call, Paul Peucker, a historian and archivist for the Moravian Archives in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, tells journalist Jennifer Sheehan that Moravian sugar cake recipes have been around for at least 100 years—and likely even longer than that. Though no one knows for sure, it’s possible the cake arrived with Moravians in the mid-1700s, when they made their way from Moravia and Bohemia (now the Czech Republic) to America. They settled in Bethlehem, Lititz, Hope, and Nazareth in Pennsylvania, as well as Bethabara in North Carolina, an area around present-day Winston-Salem where many Moravians still reside today.
The sugar cake is a part of many Moravian celebrations, including “schmaus,” a meal that takes place after Moravians decorate their church for Christmas. The cake is also a mainstay at love feasts, Moravian church services with songs and devotion that are accompanied by baked goods, coffee, and chocolate milk.
According to a popular local folktale, Moravian men once scrutinized the thumbs of potential partners before they proposed: Bigger thumbs meant sugar cakes with deeper dimples, allowing for more butter and sugar to soak into the pastry, making it even more delicious. I promise, however, that it’s possible to make an excellent Moravian sugar cake regardless of the size of your thumbs. Here’s how.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoHow to Make Moravian Sugar CakeMashed potatoes are essential. Sugar cake doughs typically include flour, granulated sugar, yeast, eggs, and—perhaps in a surprising twist—mashed potatoes. Though it’s unclear why potatoes were originally included, Sheehan notes it’s possible that potatoes, which contain plenty of starch and sugar, were used to “boost the growth of yeast,” helping the dough rise faster. The potato also adds moisture to the dough, and its starchiness gives the cake its soft, slightly chewy texture.
A few recipes call for from-scratch mashed potatoes, but today, most bakers reach for instant mashed potatoes. "Although my mother used mashed potatoes and potato water [the water drained and reserved after boiling fresh potatoes], I use instant mashed potatoes," says Pennsylvanian Pat Dimmick in Betty Groff's Pennsylvania Dutch Cookbook. "I am convinced that if earlier Moravians had instant potatoes, they'd have used them, too!"
Though my recipe below calls for boiling and mashing a potato, instant mashed potatoes are a great substitute if you want to save yourself the time and effort. And if you have leftover mashed potatoes? Feel free to incorporate them into the dough. Just be sure to avoid excessively seasoned potatoes, otherwise you may end up with garlicky Moravian sugar cake.
Use a stand mixer. The most important thing to remember about this recipe is that you are not making bread. This dough will not form a firm, elastic ball, pull away from the sides of the bowl, or pass a windowpane test. Instead, the dough will resemble a soft, stretchy cake batter that remains tacky after mixing, and will stick to the mixer hook. Resist the urge to add extra flour or you’ll find yourself with actual bread instead of cake.
Because the dough is so sticky, it’s easiest to prepare this dough in a stand mixer. If you don’t have a mixer, though, you can use a bench scraper to mix the dough and pull it up the sides of the bowl, an action that serves as a makeshift mixer, moving in a way that allows some gluten development without the mess of kneading the super-sticky dough by hand. Just follow my instructions in the notes below.
Proof the dough—and keep an eye on it. As the dough proofs, the yeast consumes the starches and sugars, releasing carbon dioxide that then helps it further rise in the oven. Keep an eye on it, though, as over-proofing (which happens when the dough has fermented for too long) can result in your cake failing to rise—or briefly rising and then collapsing—when you bake it. To check if your dough is ready, wet your finger slightly and press it into the dough. It should leave an indentation and spring back slowly. If it springs back immediately, give it a few more minutes and then test it again.
Create dimples with your fingers. To create the cake’s signature dimples, I dip my fingers in melted butter, then gently press them into the dough. You don’t want to press all the way down—just deep enough to create little pockets for the butter and sugar topping. (As the cake bakes, the smell of cinnamon sugar will permeate your home, which is reason enough to make this.)
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoDrench the cake in butter. The most important ingredient after potatoes? Butter—lots and lots of it—in both the dough and topping. There are multiple approaches to incorporating the butter into the cake’s topping; some bakers apply it with a pastry brush, while others place half-inch cubes of cold butter in the dimples. Some cooks scatter freeform chunks and pieces of butter over the surface of the dough.
Each of these methods yields a slightly different result; my preferred method is to drizzle melted butter over the unbaked dough. After filling the cake’s dimples with the cinnamon sugar mixture, I use a spouted measuring cup to slowly pour melted butter over the dough, including the cinnamon sugar–filled indentations. As the cake bakes, the butter and sugar come together to form satisfyingly crunchy tunnels in the dough.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoHow to Serve Moravian Sugar CakeI sampled this cake at every possible temperature—at this point I'm pretty sure my body composition is roughly 75% butter—and think it tastes best while slightly warm. Enjoy it as breakfast, an afternoon snack, or dessert with coffee or tea.
Place cut potato in a medium saucepan and cover with cold water. Set saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a gentle simmer. Cook until potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Using a colander, drain potatoes. Set a ricer over now-empty pot and pass potatoes through; set aside. (See notes.)
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoButter an 8- by 8-inch square aluminum baking pan and a large bowl.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFor the Dough: In a medium bowl, whisk flour and yeast to combine; set aside.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoIn the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk sugar, water, potatoes, butter, egg, and salt to combine. Add flour and yeast mixture and, using a bench scraper, bring ingredients together and gently knead until a lumpy paste forms, about 10 seconds.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoIn a stand mixer fitted with dough hook attachment, mix dough on medium speed, scraping down sides of bowl as needed, until a sticky dough forms, about 5 minutes. (The dough will cling to the hook and sides of the bowl and resemble a soft, stretchy cake batter.) See notes below for instructions for making the dough by hand.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoUsing nonstick cooking spray, grease bench scraper. Use greased bench scraper to turn dough out into prepared bowl. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and allow dough to rise at room temperature until doubled in size, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoUsing a greased bench scraper or greased hands, transfer dough to prepared baking pan. Gently press dough into prepared pan. Grease a piece of plastic wrap large enough to cover the baking pan; cover with plastic wrap, greased side down, and allow dough to rise until puffy and doubled in size, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoAdjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
For the Topping: In a small bowl, whisk brown sugar and cinnamon to combine. Dip fingertips in melted butter and make 25 to 30 deep indentations in the dough. Fill each indentation with a generous pinch of the sugar mixture, then press down gently with your index finger. Sprinkle dough with remaining sugar mixture. Drizzle thin rows of melted butter in a criss-cross pattern over dough, avoiding large pools or puddles as much as possible.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoBake in preheated oven until dough is a deep golden brown with crisp corners, 27 to 30 minutes. Remove cake from oven and let sit in pan on a wire rack until just cool enough to remove, about 20 minutes. Run a butter knife or an offset spatula around the edges of the pan and turn cake out onto wire rack and let cool until just slightly warm, about 30 minutes. Use a serrated knife to slice into squares. Serve warm.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSpecial EquipmentMedium saucepan, ricer, 8- by 8-inch aluminum baking pan, stand mixer, bench scraper, wire rack, butter knife or offset spatula
NotesTo use instant mashed potatoes, prepare them according to directions on box. Measure out 1/4 cup mashed potatoes (2 ounces; 60g) and proceed with recipe.
If using a potato masher, place potato in a medium bowl and mash with a potato masher until smooth. (Pass potato through a fine-mesh sieve to smooth out lumps if necessary.)
To use active dry yeast: Add water to the bowl of a stand mixer. Sprinkle yeast, along with a pinch of granulated sugar and let sit until bubbly, 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in sugar, potatoes, butter, egg, and salt. Add flour and proceed with recipe as written.
To make the dough by hand: In a medium bowl, whisk flour and yeast to combine. In a large bowl, whisk sugar, water, potatoes, butter, egg, and salt to combine. Add flour and yeast mixture and use a bench scraper to combine. Use scraper to spread dough up sides of bowl, then bring back together in the middle. Repeat until a sticky, stretchy dough forms, about 5 minutes. Tip dough into clean, buttered bowl to rise.
The cake will fall apart if you remove it immediately after baking, but will stick to the pan if completely cool. To remove, flip upside-down onto a plate, then onto a wire rack.
Make-Ahead and StorageMoravian sugar cake is best on the day it is made. Wrap leftover cake tightly in plastic wrap and store at room temperature for up to 1 day.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaI love coffee’s pleasantly bitter flavor and its malty chocolate notes: I adore creamy coffee ice cream, tiramisu with espresso-soaked ladyfingers, and rich coffee-infused chocolate ganache sandwiched between macarons. Though I actually don't drink much coffee, I still yearn for its enticing aroma each morning, and this bittersweet coffee granola is the answer to that. After rounds of testing, I've perfected a recipe for coffee-infused granola that's super crunchy and satisfies my coffee craving without having to commit to a whole cup. Read on for my tips for making the best homemade granola and the full recipe.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin Sharma5 Tips for Making GranolaUse instant coffee granules. Moisture is the enemy of crunchy granola, and instant coffee granules bring bold, concentrated flavor without introducing too much liquid to the granola mixture.
Make sure your instant coffee granules are properly dissolved. This granola gets its deep flavor from a mix of agave syrup, instant coffee, vanilla extract, cinnamon, and salt. It’s extremely simple, but it’s crucial you dissolve the instant coffee with hot water (the hottest water that comes out of your tap should be fine) before preparing the syrup and adding the oil. Because oil doesn’t mix well with water, the coffee granules may clump with the oil if they aren’t adequately dissolved in the water first.
Choose rolled oats. Rolled oats—also called old fashioned oats—are the ideal Goldilocks middle of oats. They’re steamed and flattened so they toast quicker than steel cut, but not as processed as quick cooking oats, which lack the heft of rolled oats and fall apart easily. Rolled oats are just thick enough and have the best flavor and texture after a lengthy bake in the oven.
Use a liquid sweetener. I use agave syrup for its mostly neutral flavor. Feel free to substitute with other liquid sweeteners like maple syrup or honey, but keep in mind: they will impart their flavors to the granola. Do not substitute with brown sugar or granulated sugar, as you’ll end up with a powdery mixture that won’t evenly coat the granola.
Go low and slow. To ensure crispness, many granola recipes instruct cooks to coat the grains and nuts in egg whites or to frequently stir the granola as it bakes. There’s no need for either in my recipe below, which is inspired by a technique cookbook author Ali Slagle employs in her granola recipe by cookbook. Instead of mixing the granola mid-bake, you bake it undisturbed so that the granola bakes into one even sheet, then allow it to fully cool in the oven before breaking it apart into large, satisfying clusters. Not stirring your granola may be counterintuitive, but trust the process. If you’re afraid the granola might burn, have no fear: Baking the granola at a low temperature ensures that it won’t singe or get too dark.
Feel free to riff on the recipe. Like many granolas, this recipe is easily customizable. Want a granola that evokes the flavors of a maple or honey latte instead? Swap maple syrup or honey in for the agave syrup. Don’t have untoasted almonds? Use those pecans and pistachios sitting in your pantry. And if prunes,dried cherries, and apricots aren’t your favorite dried fruits, try currants, raisins, or dried blueberries—they will be just as delicious.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaHow to Serve the GranolaMake a big batch on Sunday evening, and you’re all set for easy snacking throughout the week. Enjoy the granola with yogurt and sliced fruit, on top of your smoothie or açaí bowl, or eat it by the handful. And if you’re a dessert person like me, sprinkle some on top of ice cream for a satisfying crunch.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaAdjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 300ºF (150ºC) degrees. Line a 9- by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaIn a large bowl, whisk agave syrup, dissolved instant coffee, vanilla extract, cinnamon, and salt to combine. Whisk in melted coconut oil to combine. (The coconut oil may separate a bit from the coffee syrup—this is OK.)
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaAdd oats, almonds, pepitas, and chia seeds to agave and coffee mixture. Using a flexible spatula, toss to evenly coat ingredients in syrup. Transfer granola onto prepared baking sheet, and, using the same spatula, spread into an even layer. Transfer to oven and bake until fragrant, toasted, golden brown, and mostly dry to the touch, about 40 minutes.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaTurn oven off, and leave the granola in the warm oven to cool completely, about 2 hours. Remove granola from oven and, using your hands, break granola into small clumps and toss with dried fruit in the sheet pan. Transfer granola to an airtight container and store at room temperature.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaSpecial Equipment9- by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet, parchment paper, flexible spatula
NotesI use agave syrup for its mostly neutral flavor. You can substitute with other liquid sweeteners like maple syrup or honey, but they will impart their flavors to the granola. (Maple or honey latte granola, anyone?) Do not substitute with brown sugar or granulated sugar—you’ll end up with powdery and unpleasantly dry granola.
Be sure to use refined coconut oil, as unrefined oil will give the granola a strong coconut flavor. Any neutral oil (like vegetable or canola) can be substituted for coconut oil.
Make-Ahead and StorageGranola can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.
Serious Eats / Dera BurresonLike many Americans of a certain age, my early experiences with beer revolved around the inexpensive, readily available varieties found in convenience stores. Then, I left Florida for Portland, Oregon, in the mid-1980s and fell into a burgeoning craft beer revolution. I was shocked that beer existed in so many nuanced forms rather than the fairly homogenous lager spectrum I’d experienced. Not too long after, one of my friends went sober and rewarded themselves for their newfound obsession of doing 1,000 sit-ups a day with a non-alcoholic (NA) beer or two. It was the same big-brand lager with even less flavor—basically water— and I wondered why they would punish themselves with such a horrible reward.
Like the craft beer industry, the non-alcoholic beer market has since evolved, allowing beer drinkers to crack open a well-crafted beer—without the alcohol. Well, mostly; non-alcoholic beer may legally contain up to 0.5% alcohol by volume (ABV), which is negligible but good to note for those totally teetotaling. To see where the current market offerings lie, I put my palate to work and tasted 23 top-rated non-alcoholic beers with wide distribution in the US. Here are my 19 favorites from that selection.
Some of the Best Non-Alcoholic BeersThe TestsWe tasted 23 different non-alcoholic and found so many fantastic options in a variety of beer styles.Serious Eats / Dera Burreson Aroma Test: I smelled and noted the aroma of each beer both when the can or bottle was opened and after it was poured into a glass. * Taste Test:* I tried 23 non-alcoholic beers, including ales, lagers, and more. I noted their mouthfeel, taste, and any lingering flavor notes.
What We LearnedHow Long Has Non-Alcoholic Beer Been Around?Serious Eats / Dera BurresonNon-alcoholic or low-alcohol beer is an ancient beverage, with origins possibly dating to 5,000 BCE. If we fast-forward to Europe during the Middle Ages, “small beer”—typically with an ABV of 2 to 3%—became popular.
Small beer gained popularity in the US alongside the temperance movement. Major brewers such as Anheuser-Busch, Pabst, Miller, and Coors brewed “near beer" containing 0.5% ABV, during Prohibition both to provide a non-alcoholic beverage and to survive the Volstead Act. These beers faded as Prohibition ended, but renewed interest swayed major brewers to bring NA products to market in the 1990s.
Personal tastes vary, but many of these early non-alcoholic brews weren’t as rich and complex as the originals. They were the diner coffee of the beer world. However, the changing consumer tastes that drove the craft beer industry inevitably led to innovation in the non-alcoholic beer scene too.
What’s Driving the Non-Alcoholic Beer Market?Aroma and flavor profiles varied between beers.Serious Eats / Dera BurresonMindfulness, intentionality, and health and wellness are some of the major drivers for grabbing an NA beer versus its alcoholic counterpart. There are also generational preferences and a new era of online accountability in play. Drinking habits between generations have changed, too. To get further into these ideas, I spoke with Chris Furnari, senior communications manager at Athletic Brewing Company, as well as John Walker, chief product officer and co-founder of the non-alcoholic brewing brand. I also chatted with mindful drinking expert and founder of Positive Damage, Inc., Derek Brown.
Brown explains that the Boomer and Silent generations had a mindset that leaned more toward staying home and hosting dinner parties, with the occasional big night out. “But it was never this perpetual youth that Gen X seems to embody,” he says, regarding Gen X’s preference for going out. “I have friends who are anywhere between 40 and 60 or so, going out to see bands every single weekend."
What’s changed is what they’re drinking when they’re out. Instead of going hard like they did in their younger years, Xers may have one good drink or no alcohol at all. Millennials and Gen Z are statistically drinking less, too, with Millennials drinking less than Gen X, and Gen Z drinking another 20% less than Millennials. Younger drinkers value quality over quantity and may order one well-made alcoholic drink before switching to something non-alcoholic. The reasons vary, but as I mentioned, many want to make healthier decisions about what they imbibe or just don't want to rely on a buzz to socialize.
Does Non-Alcoholic Beer Truly Have No Alcohol?The short of it: Most non-alcoholic beer does have a tiny bit of alcohol unless it’s explicitly labeled “alcohol free” per the Code of Federal Regulations. So the question is, is non-alcoholic beer for everyone, given that most of it still contains alcohol? Even people in recovery? Brown is quite diplomatic in explaining that everyone’s recovery journey is personal and that doing what is comfortable for them is essential. “I think that it really depends on the person, because the nature of memory and the things that propel us to think about alcohol and to make us want to drink or not are not always uniform,” he says. “Some people can't even walk into a bar, right? Some people can walk into a bar and share a non-alcoholic beer. Some people in their long-term recovery might even find eventually…they can return to drinking alcohol. It’s not something I recommend, just something that happens.”
How Is Non-Alcoholic Beer Made?It’s safe to say that brewing technology has significantly changed over the past thousand years. New methodologies constantly evolve, and older technologies find new uses. “Who thought that we'd be cooking chicken in a plastic bag and a 150-degree bath for two hours 20 years ago?” Walker says. The same innovative mentality goes for brewing non-alcoholic beer.
Non-alcoholic beer typically (we’ll get to the exceptions, I promise) starts as the full-strength version with the alcohol removed after brewing. The two most common methods to remove the alcohol are vacuum distillation and reverse osmosis. Put simply, distilling the beer under lower pressure drops the boiling point of ethanol, which evaporates before the flavors and volatile compounds in the beer do. Reverse osmosis passes the beer through a membrane that removes the alcohol (and some water) while preventing the larger molecules of the flavor compounds from doing the same. Cold fermentation is another way of controlling the alcohol content. In this instance, the beer is brewed at temperatures at or below 60°F. That lower temperature prevents the yeast from producing ethanol, resulting in a beer with very low to no alcohol content. There are also yeast strains that only ferment simple sugars like sucrose, glucose, and fructose, leaving complex sugars like maltose untouched, resulting in a low-alcohol beer with higher residual sugar in the brew.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Non-Alcoholic BeerSerious Eats / Dera BurresonIt’s never been easier to find a very drinkable version of your favorite style that forgoes the alcohol. If you want a beer that truly has no alcohol in it, look for the “alcohol free” label, which per the Code of Federal Regulations, may only be used on “malt beverages containing no alcohol. No tolerances are permitted for ‘alcohol free’ malt beverages.” Beyond that, the beer should get pretty darn close to replicating the style it's mimicking, and it shouldn't have any off flavors (read: sulfurous stink or unpleasant dankness).
Our Favorite Non-Alcoholic BeersFor those who want the classic “light beer” flavor without the alcohol, Athletic Lite is a great place to start. Walker explained that Athletic’s goal is to appeal to a broad sector of beer drinkers, not just beer nerds, and this is an excellent representation of those efforts. It’s a clean-drinking, crisp beer with a slight lemon-lime flavor and very light maltiness that lays easy on the palate.
Key Specs Ingredients: Water, malt, rice, wheat, hops, yeast * Hops: Noble * Pack size:* 6
Bravus’ light beer offering is a bit more complex than the average light beer but just as easy to drink. It’s a crisp, clean sip that leads with a bit of tart sweetness before settling into a biscuity maltiness.
Key Specs Ingredients: Water, malted barley, hops, yeast * Hops: NA * Pack size:* 6, 12, 24
Scene stalwarts Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. have moved into the non-alcoholic space. This easy-drinking golden ale is an excellent representation of the style in a non-alcoholic form. This beer starts with restrained citrus and pine hop notes that transition to a smooth maltiness, finishing with clean, hoppy bitterness and a lingering hint of citrus.
Key Specs Ingredients: Hops, yeast, malt * Hops: Amarillo, CTZ * Pack size:* Single, 4, 6, 12
Samuel Adams isn’t a brewery to be left behind, and this offering is a great example of a golden ale. A classic golden is a lager-adjacent beer with a light but full malty flavor and mild hoppy tartness, and this beer fits that picture. It leads with floral and kiwi hop notes and moves into a medium malt body that finishes with a light, crisp, melony flavor.
Key Specs Ingredients: Hops, yeast, malt * Hops: Hellertau, Tettnang * Pack size:* 6
IPAs rule the craft beer world, so it’s only natural that the style gets equal time in all its forms in the non-alcoholic space. Best Day’s Hazy IPA shows the best aspects of the style, with fruity hops and notes of pine and grapefruit leading the way. This hop bomb is followed by a gentle malt fullness and light sweetness, finishing with a slightly bitter melon note.
Key Specs Ingredients: Water, barley, hops, yeast * Hops: NA * Pack size:* 6
Just the Haze by Samuel Adams is another great representation of the hazy New England-style IPA. Grapefruit, pineapple, and melon on the nose lead this full-bodied but not significantly malty ale that finishes with crisp, hoppy notes. It's rich and heady but without that smoothie-like heaviness that a hazy New England IPA can possess.
Key Specs Ingredients: Hops, yeast, malt, water * Hops: Citra, Mosaic, Sabro, Cascade * Pack size:* 6
The difference between a hazy and juicy IPA is nebulous, at best. The best explanation sounds like a question on a college-prep test: not all hazy IPAs are juicy, and not all juicy IPAs are hazy. I’m too tired to solve for X in that equation, but I’ll say this offering from Untitled Art lives up to the name. I got a tropical fruity, hard candy sweetness that followed a thick, heady hop nose that’s classic for an IPA. The maltiness was well-balanced, and lingering hints of vanilla stood out above the other flavors.
Key Specs Ingredients: NA * Hops: Citra, Mosaic * Pack size:* 6
Bravus’ West Coast IPA is a fairly restrained beer for such a “big” style. Citrus, pine, and floral hop notes hit your nose immediately, but the medium body from the malt mellows those tones without lingering sweetness, followed by a clean finish.
Key Specs Ingredients: Water, malted barley, hops, yeast * Hops: Simcoe, Citra * Pack size:* 6, 12, 24
Run Wild is a good candidate for those who want to imbibe a few (or more) IPAs. It drinks like a muted West Coast style, with plenty of piney, citrusy hops and a mild tropical fruit nose. Subtle medium maltiness gives just enough body to complement the hoppiness, and the beer ends with a crisp, hoppy aftertaste.
Key Specs Ingredients: Water, malted barley, oats, hops, wheat, yeast * Hops: Five northwest hops including Citra and Mosaic * Pack size:* 6
I’ve had mixed feelings about Peroni. I hated it when I was younger, but it seems there’s been a change in my palate since then—I quite enjoy it now. Peroni makes a crisp, clean, classic lager, and Nastro Azzurro is no different from its alcoholic counterpart. Try it with Neapolitan-style pizza or a light pasta dish.
Key Specs Ingredients: NA * Hops: NA * Pack size:* 6
Italian Pils is a hoppier version of the classic Pilsner. Untitled Art’s offering has dominant citrus and floral hoppy bitterness that rides on top of a crisp Italian Pilsner body and finish.
Key Specs Ingredients: NA * Hops: Hallertau Mittelfruh, Strata * Pack size:* 6
I have no ground to stand on when saying this, but I think the first folks to make session IPAs drew from the crisp lightness of a classic Kölsch for inspiration. A Kölsch is a “drink it all afternoon” type of beer, and Best Day’s version serves that idea well. It’s got a medium caramel maltiness without a “feedbaggy” aftertaste and a slightly citrusy hoppiness that finishes clean without weighing you down. It's one of commerce editor Grace Kelly's favorites. "It's incredibly refreshing when chilled, and tastes just like a non, non-alcoholic Kolsch, with a tinge of bitterness on the finish," she says.
Key Specs Ingredients: Water, barley, hops, yeast * Hops: Hallertau * Pack size:* 6
Athletic is serious about providing a beer for every taste. This Mexican-style copper is for fans of Negra Modelo and other Mexican lagers. It’s a great beach beer with lightly toasted malt and a bready, wheaty body complimented by spicy floral notes.
Key Specs Ingredients: Water, malted barley, wheat, hops, yeast * Hops: NA * Pack size:* 6
There’s not a lot I can say about Guinness 0. If you like the alcoholic version (which I do), you will not notice much of a difference in this alcohol-free version of its classic stout, with notes of bitter chocolate and coffee, a full body, and a creamy head. It's perhaps slightly more watery than the original, but that's me trying to find a bone to pick.
Key Specs Ingredients: Water, malted barley, barley, roasted barley, fructose, natural flavorings, hops, yeast * Hops: NA * Pack size:* 4
I’d place Bravus’ Peanut Butter Dark as straddling the line between a stout and a porter when considering its mouth-coating body. It’s creamy on the tongue, with light touches of dark malt that provide a chocolatey flavor, accented by strong yet balanced notes of roasted peanuts and hazelnuts. This beer isn’t a pastry stout by any standards—there’s deep maltiness that never veers into the sweet realm.
Key Specs Ingredients: water, malted barley, natural peanut butter extract, natural hazelnut extract, natural chocolate extract, hops, yeast * Hops: NA * Pack size:* 6. 12, 24
Given the popularity of fruited sour ales, it only makes sense that someone would make a non-alcoholic version. It’s a little thick on the tongue for a sour, giving off fruit juice vibes, but it’s nicely carbonated and strikes a nice balance between sweet and tart, although it’s a little light on the sourness for my taste buds.
Key Specs Ingredients: NA * Hops: NA * Pack size:* 4, 6
Ginger and yuzu sit nicely on top of this wheat beer. It makes a perfect hot afternoon post-yardwork brew that’s utterly refreshing. Pair it with some brats off the grill and a side of elotes for a fantastic summer meal. This is a rotational release, which means it's only available for a limited time.
Key Specs Ingredients: Water, barley, hops, yeast, yuzu, ginger, wheat * Hops: Cascade * Pack size:* 6
Pale malt makes a perfect light backbone for a light blonde ale. The strawberry flavor is noticeable but comes quite short of cloying or dominating. Packaging the malt and strawberry together, I got strong impressions of strawberry shortcake—cream and all. It is a limited release.
Key Specs Ingredients: Water, malted barley, natural strawberry extract, hops, yeast * Hops: NA * Pack size:* 6, 12, 24
Golden ales are well represented in the non-alcoholic space, and this offering from Athletic is good, with citrus aromas and finish and an earthy, vaguely spicy body. It's also gluten-free. That said, the brand notes on its website: "This product is fermented from grains containing gluten and crafted to remove gluten. The gluten content of this product cannot be verified, and this product may contain gluten."
Key Specs Ingredients: Water, malted barley, Oats, hops, wheat, yeast * Hops: NA * Pack size:* 4, 6, 12, 24
The CompetitionAlso Good* Sierra Nevada Trail Pass IPA: IPAs dominate the craft beer market, and that rings true for the non-alcoholic space, too. Sierra Nevada built the road map for modern IPA, and there is nothing wrong with this beer at all. In fact, it’s every bit as well-crafted as Sierra Nevada’s flagship pale ale. At some point, I had to truncate the IPA listings, lest they dominate our ratings, so this IPA was cut sheerly due to space and variety constraints.
Not Our Favorites* Best Day Electro-Lime: This Mexican-style lager adds lime and salt to create a pre-mixed chelada. Taste is subjective, so all I can say with certainty is that the base beer is a good lager, but I didn’t care for the salty-lime addition, preferring to add that myself. * Athletic Upside Dawn Golden: Golden ales are well represented in the non-alcoholic space, and this offering from Athletic is good, with citrus aromas and finish and an earthy, vaguely spicy body. It just didn’t jibe with my palate as well as the other golden offerings. * Bravus Blood Orange IPA: Again, taste is subjective, but I’ve never been a fan of adding citrus to a beer that leads with heavy grapefruit on the nose. Doubling down doesn’t always yield double the payoff.
Why We’re the Experts* Greg Baker is a multi-time James Beard-nominated chef and former restaurateur from Tampa, Florida. * He’s reviewed knife sharpeners, charcoal starter chimneys, and more for Serious Eats. * Greg built and maintained a constantly rotating craft beer list in his restaurants for almost ten years, featuring tried and true standards, local upstarts, and unique offerings from lesser-known regional breweries.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThe produce available in August is fantastically varied and abundant, but truthfully, most of my farmers market basket is usually filled with tomatoes at this point in the summer. And while I do my best to pump out as many tomato toasts and tarts as I can, the delight of fresh tomato season also brings with it a chance to bottle up the best of summer's sweet, juicy tomatoes to enjoy during cold winters by canning them.
Any type of tomato can be canned, and you can use home-canned tomatoes any way you'd use store-bought canned tomatoes, including in an Italian-American red sauce, shakshuka, and tomato soup. So by all means, can those beautiful Brandywines, Sungolds, and plum tomatoes bursting out of your garden or that you hauled home from the market, just be sure to do it properly—for the best canned tomatoes and for your safety.
Proper canning practices are key not only to preserving flavor, but to avoiding foodborne illness, including botulism, a serious type of food poisoning that’s caused by a type of bacteria that thrives in low oxygen environments like canned and vacuum-packed foods. The bacteria is called Clostridium botulinum, and it becomes poisonous when it’s introduced to low-oxygen, low-acid, or low-sugar environments. To ensure your canned goods are safe to eat and taste their best, there are two key steps you can take: raising acidity or using a pressure canner for high-heat canning. For the ultimate insurance policy, you can employ both techniques, but one or the other should put your canned tomatoes in the safe zone.
Why You Should Raise the Acidity of Your Tomatoes Before Canning ThemIn order to can foods safely, you need to understand the importance of pH, which is simply a measurement of acidity. The pH scale runs from 0 (most acidic) to 14 (most basic). A lower pH value means higher acidity, and a higher pH means lower acidity. For reference, lemon juice is a pH of about 2, while water is neutral with a pH of 7. Achieving the proper acidity (pH) level is key for food preservation.
An ingredient’s pH level needs to be at or below 4.6 to resist microbes and be considered safe for preserving, and while most tomatoes are safely in that range, some types can clock in at slightly higher pH levels, meaning they are not acidic enough to can safely without added acid. Each variety of tomato will have a different pH level, and that pH level also varies depending on the ripeness of the fruit when it was picked, as well as how much it has ripened since. Various studies have shown that both commercially grown and heirloom varieties of tomatoes can vary anywhere from 3.7 to 5.2. Unless you plan on testing the pH level of every tomato you have before canning, this is where incorporating more acid can give you the extra safety you need.
In order to properly adjust the pH range of tomatoes for canning, it’s best to add either lemon juice or citric acid. Bottled lemon juice is recommended over fresh since the acidity of fresh lemon juice varies from lemon to lemon, while bottled lemon juice has a consistent controlled pH. You’ll want to add two tablespoons of lemon juice or half a teaspoon of citric acid per one quart jar of tomatoes, according to multiple sources, including University of Georgia’s National Center for Home Food Preservation.
Boiling Water Canning vs. Pressure CanningBoth boiling-water canning and pressure canning drive out air from jars and create a vacuum that pulls the lid down more tightly, creating an airtight seal, but each comes with its own pros and cons. A boiling-water bath is better suited for foods that are already higher in acidity, such as blueberries and strawberries, since boiling-water canners tend to reach the atmospheric boiling point, which is about 212°F (100°C). A pressure canner, on the other hand, will drive the boiling point higher than the atmospheric point to reach temperatures upwards of 250°F (121°C), making the environment even better for killing off microbes. If you’re adding lemon juice or citric acid to your tomatoes to boost the acidity, a boiling-water bath is enough to ensure safety. If you’re opting not to, then pressure canning is a must in order to guarantee high enough temperatures to prevent bacterial growth.
Another factor that can help you decide which route to go when canning your tomatoes is time. The processing time for tomatoes using boiling-water canning is 85 minutes, which can sometimes create a mushy texture in tomatoes; the pressure canner, on the other hand, only requires 25 minutes of processing time, along with a venting time of 10 minutes.
Lastly, if you want to add additional ingredients to your tomatoes like garlic, oregano, or basil leaves, you’ll need to use a pressure canner over a boiling-water canner, since these ingredients can lower the acidity of the tomatoes.
More Tips for Successfully Canning TomatoesThere are a few other factors to keep in mind when preserving your tomatoes to ensure the best results. Make sure to look for tomatoes that are ripe and unblemished, since fungus, mold, and other microbes can infect damaged tomatoes and affect acidity. You’ll also want to peel your tomatoes (which you can do by scoring them, blanching for one minute, and then shocking them in an ice bath before removing the skin) to eliminate the bitterness and toughness that the skins bring. Adding a teaspoon of sea salt or kosher salt per two pounds of tomatoes is optional, but will boost flavor.
Senior culinary editor Leah Colins also emphasizes the importance of “minding the gap” when canning. “Tomatoes are watery, and as they heat, they will release a lot of liquid,” she says. “During processing and cooling periods, a harmless air gap can occur in the jars. Hot-packing the jars helps minimize this.” She advises leaving an inch to an inch and a half of space from the top of a quart-sized jar. “This ensures spaces for juices to move within the jar during the heating or pressure canning process. If a large gap remains after processing, but the lid is still fully sealed, the food inside is still safe.”
The TakeawayCanning tomatoes is a great way to preserve their flavor, but due to the fruit’s varied levels of acidity, you need to take a couple of key steps to ensure safety. Adding acidity in the form of bottled lemon juice or citric acid is the best way to put the tomatoes’ pH level at the ideal range of 4.6 or below; if you’re employing this technique, then boiling-water canning is a safe route for preserving your tomatoes. Pressure canning raises the temperature inside the jar, further reducing the likelihood of microbial contamination and growth, so this is recommended if you prefer not to add acid to your tomatoes.
With this in mind, you can get to canning those tomatoes with ease and little worry. And given that tomato season is more than halfway through in most of the United States, you’d better get to it!
Serious Eats - Morgan Hunt GlazeMy best advice for a great fruit salad is to keep it simple, which is what we’ve done with this grape salad recipe. While a salad by name, this grape dish is really more a dessert—or a wonderfully rich side for Thanksgiving or another holiday, a potluck, or picnic. Grapes tossed with a creamy, sweet dressing have been whipped up in American kitchens as far back as the early 1900s. Creamy grape salads fall into that category of fruit salads like ambrosia, that are bursting with retro Americana appeal; you can easily picture it out on the buffet line at a Sunday cookout or on a holiday table back in the 1950s. And while versions of it are found throughout the South and Midwest, its specific place of origin is a bit murky (just don’t link it to Minnesota).
There's no way to talk about any fruit salad without acknowledging the genre's generally sad reputation. Whether it's on the menu at a local brunch spot, in a giant bowl on a picnic table, or in a plastic tub at the airport, you can rarely expect more than a mix of season-be-damned berries tossed with under-ripe pineapple, with a few whimpering chunks of cantaloupe thrown in, if you’re lucky.
The problem with most fruit salads has less to do with concept than with execution, because simply cramming a bunch of colorful fruits together is no guarantee of success. Instead of complementing each other, they form a disjointed mishmash. To avoid grape salad’s common pitfalls, our test kitchen colleague Giovanna Vazquez tossed together batch after batch to perfect a version that was pleasantly sweet and fruit-forward, not goopy, gunky, or cloying as too many grape salads are. Here’s how.
Tips for a Party-Worthy Grape SaladStick with just grapes for the fruit component. As noted above, the problem with most fruit salads is that in their effort to be colorful, varied, and exciting, they force a medley of fruit together that rarely results in the best texture or flavor combinations. To avoid this, we recommend just using grapes. Keep it simple and leave them whole for the best texture and use both green and red for a pop of color.
Use a combination of cream cheese and yogurt. The dressed salad should be sweet, but not cloyingly saccharine—after all, grapes are pretty sweet on their own. A combination of tangy, rich cream cheese and plain Greek-style yogurt adds acidity and a welcome tart bite to the dish. For an even creamier and slightly less tart dressing, you can substitute sour cream for the yogurt. We also stir in a hint of vanilla and granulated sugar to place the dish firmly in the dessert category.
Finish with almonds, mint, and brown sugar. We love how the crunch of thinly sliced almonds pairs with plump grapes. The combination guarantees a satisfying snappy, crisp texture in every bite. Fresh mint not only enhances the visual presentation, it also adds a perky fresh flavor to the salad. A final sprinkle of brown sugar is customary and adds a hint of molassesy sweetness.
In a medium skillet, toast almonds over medium heat, stirring often, until aromatic and just starting to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.
Serious Eats - Morgan Hunt GlazeIn a large bowl, vigorously whisk and beat the cream cheese, yogurt, granulated sugar, and vanilla extract until smooth and combined, scraping down sides of bowl as needed, about 3 minutes. (Alternatively, use a handheld electric mixer to beat the ingredients.)
Serious Eats - Morgan Hunt GlazeGently fold in grapes, 1 cup almonds, and 1/4 cup of the mint until evenly incorporated.
Serious Eats - Morgan Hunt GlazeTransfer grape salad to a platter. Garnish with brown sugar, remaining 1/4 cup almonds, and remaining 1/4 cup mint.
Serious Eats - Morgan Hunt GlazeSpecial EquipmentHand-held mixer (optional)
Make-Ahead and StorageThe salad is best enjoyed the day of making it. It can be held at room temperature for up to 2 hours or refrigerated for up to 1 day.
Serious Eats / Afton Cyrus / Carolyn GrilloWe use springform pans for baking delicate foods like cheesecakes, quiches, tortes, mousse cakes, tarts, and even lasagnas and Detroit-style pizzas. Unlike layer cakes, these foods shouldn’t be inverted after baking. And unlike cake pans—which are made of a single piece of metal—springform pans have a base and a collar, which fit together to create a seal. After baking, the collar releases, leaving the food intact and upright.
As a seasoned reviews editor and former professional baker, I’ve used my fair share of springform pans. I know firsthand how a poor springform pan can ruin hours of hard work through uneven baking, leaking, or sticking.
This is our first time testing springform pans, so we were eager to get started. We gathered nine springform pans made from steel or aluminum, their finishes ranging in color from pale gold to black. Seven of the springform pans we tested had nonstick coatings and the remaining two were uncoated. The pans ranged in weight from a dinky 7.75 ounces to a sturdy two pounds. We looked for pans that baked evenly, were easy to assemble and use, and were a cinch to clean.
The Winners, at a GlanceThis springform pan is completely leakproof—even when we filled it with water, not a drop came out. Made from aluminized steel with a nonstick gold finish, it baked cheesecake evenly and delicately. Cheesecake baked in this looked beautiful and released effortlessly from both the collar and base. We appreciated this pan’s large capacity and extended base, which allowed for easy handling, even with oven mitts on. Note: This springform pan’s vertical closing system requires more effort to assemble than a buckle-style model. For a simpler assembly process, consider our other top pick from Nordic Ware.
This pan was painless to assemble. Weighing just over a pound, it felt sturdy and its buckle was tight and secure when closed. While this pan dripped a bit during our water test, it was the most leak-proof buckle-style pan in our lineup. Most importantly, it never leaked when baking cheesecake and its raised base made it easy for us to remove the dessert. Lastly, its slick nonstick coating released food easily and was quick to clean.
The TestsWe tested springform pans made from various materials and with different closure mechanisms.Serious Eats / Afton Cyrus / Carolyn Grillo Cheesecake Test: We made cheesecake to assess each pan’s baking capabilities. During this test, we evaluated whether the pans leaked during baking and how easy they were to use and clean. * Usability Test: We assembled and disassembled each springform pan 15 times, evaluating how easy it was to do so. * Durability Test: We cut the inside of each pan 10 times with a sharp knife to assess how durable it was and if its coating easily scratched. * Water Test:* After filling each springform pan with water, we noted any leaks.
What We LearnedPans With Buckle-Style Closures Were Easier to Assemble, But Leaked MoreThe Williams Sonoma pan (top) was the the most leakproof thanks to its more tedious closure mechanism.Serious Eats / Afton Cryus / Carolyn GrilloThe springform pans we tested had two closure styles. The first was a buckle that expanded and tightened around a single-piece collar, so assembling and disassembling the pan was simple. Tight buckles, like the one on the Nordic Ware, created a better seal around their bases and were more leakproof than pans with loose buckles.
The other type of pan had a collar that was made from two pieces of metal connected by dual plastic gaskets slid over silicone strips. Although this type of pan has more parts to keep track of and was a bit tedious to assemble, it made an incredibly leakproof seal. Two pans in our lineup with this closure system (from Williams Sonoma and USA Pan) were completely leak-free when filled with water.
Pans With Extended Bases and Large Capacities Were Easiest to ManeuverWe preferred pans with extended bases and tall sides, as they offered a nice place to hold onto and protected baked goods.Serious Eats / Afton Cryus / Carolyn GrilloSome of the pans in our lineup had bottoms that extended past their collars. Most of these larger bases had troughs to catch any potential leaks, and also offered secure places to grasp when moving pans into and out of the oven.
Pans with larger capacities were easier to maneuver too, as food didn’t rise to the top of or past the rim and we could rest our oven mitts on the top of the pan without bashing the dessert. Cheesecake baked in springforms with smaller capacities puffed up above the collar during baking, so touching the rim would have meant squashing the just-baked cake. In summary: The easiest pans to hold were those that had both an extended base and tall sides.
The Role of Material and Color in Baking PerformanceSerious Eats / Afton Cyrus / Carolyn GrilloThe nonstick pans in our lineup were made from either aluminized steel or carbon steel, while the two uncoated pans were anodized aluminum. The pans in our lineup ranged in color from pale golden to black. We know from previous baking pan testing that light pans, including gold ones, are better at producing golden brown food. Darker pans conduct heat more effectively and thus bake quicker. If using a dark pan, we recommend checking for doneness a few minutes before the indicated recipe time to avoid overbaking or overbrowning.
Some of the pans in our lineup produced cheesecake with more or deeper cracks than others, but these differences didn’t correspond perfectly to the material or color of the pan in which they were baked. However, the cheesecake made in our golden, aluminized steel winner from Williams Sonoma had the fewest cracks.
It Was Easier to Remove Food From Pans With Raised BasesPans with raised bases (like the one on the right) were easier to lift baked goods off of.Serious Eats / Afton Cyrus / Carolyn GrilloWe noticed an important difference among the pans’ bases. A few had recessed bases (meaning food sat down in the base), others were flat, and some had raised bottoms. Pans with raised bases were the easiest to remove food from, as the baked goods were slightly elevated. We could slide a long offset spatula between the cake and the base, releasing the delicate food quickly and without damage. Cakes baked in recessed bases required us to angle our offset spatula down and under, often damaging the food.
Nonstick Pans Were Easiest to Use and CleanWhen we removed one of the uncoated collars from its cheesecake, a small piece of food clung to the metal, leaving an unattractive hole in our finished cheesecake. The slick coating on nonstick pans made it easy for us to remove the cake collar and base easily, and cleaning those pans required just a quick scrub and rinse.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Springform PanSerious Eats / Afton Cyrus / Carolyn GrilloThe best springform pans are made from aluminized or carbon steel with a slick nonstick coating. They have secure, tight closures to prevent leaks and are easy to handle due to their extended bases and larger capacities. Our favorite springform pans also have raised bases for easy food removal.
Our Favorite Springform PansWhat we liked: The Williams Sonoma baked beautiful cheesecake and was leakproof, even when completely filled with water. This pan has a large capacity and an extended base, which makes it pleasant to use. It was easy for us to remove the cheesecake once cooled because of its nonstick coating and raised bottom.
What we didn’t like: This springform pan’s vertical closure system requires more effort to assemble than buckle-style springform pans. Plus, when completely disassembled it’s made up of eight parts: a base, an o-ring, two metal collar pieces, two silicone strips, and two plastic gaskets. That’s a lot! More parts means a greater possibility of losing one.
Key Specs Material: Aluminized steel * Coating: Nonstick * Color: Gold * Weight: 2 pounds * Diameter: 9 inches * Extended base: Yes * Raised base: Yes * Closure: Vertical * Capacity: 12 cups * Care instructions: Hand-wash recommended; do not use abrasive cleaning products; do not cut directly on the base; do not use metal or sharp utensils * Oven-safe temperature:* 450°F
What we liked: Made of only two pieces, this pan is super easy to assemble, and the buckle closes tightly and securely. Its small extended base gave us a secure place to hold when moving the pan into and out of the oven. This pan’s raised base made it easy for us to remove cheesecake, too. Lastly, its nonstick coating released cheesecake easily and was quick to clean.
What we didn’t like: All of the buckle-style springform pans we tested leaked during our water test—some more than others—but this pan leaked the least. Most importantly, it never leaked when baking cheesecake. This pan’s dark finish means that it browns food more quickly. Check the doneness of your food a few minutes before the indicated time to avoid overbaking.
Key Specs Material: Carbon steel * Coating: Nonstick * Color: Black * Weight: 1 pound, 7/8 ounces * Diameter: 9 inches * Extended base: Yes * Raised base: Yes * Closure: Buckle * Capacity: 10 cups * Care instructions: Hand-wash only; do not use abrasive cleaning products; do not cut directly on the base; do not use metal or sharp utensils * Oven-safe temperature:* 450°F
The Competition* USA Pan Leakproof Nonstick Commercial Springform Pan: Although this pan uses the same vertical closure gaskets as the Williams Sonoma pan, the plastic gaskets were noticeably more challenging to slide on and off of their corresponding silicone parts. When attempting to release the collar, we had to pull so hard on one of the plastic pieces that it flew clear across the kitchen. * Farberware Bakeware Springform Baking Pan: Our one gripe with this pan is that it doesn’t have an extended base, so there isn’t a secure place to hold. * Fat Daddio’s Anodized Aluminum: There were several aspects of using this pan that we liked, so we were disappointed when it leaked butter during baking. Its buckle closure was a little loose. * Cuisinart 9-Inch Chef's Classic Nonstick Bakeware Springform Pan: This pan was a pain to assemble. We had to lift the base of the pan with one hand while lining up the collar with the other, so it was easy to misalign the base and collar. * HIWARE 9-Inch Nonstick Cheesecake Pan Springform Pan: We had to angle our spatula down and under the food to lift it out of this pan’s recessed base. Doing this chipped away at a piece of the crust, which left a gap and lots of crumbs. * Wilton Springform Pan, 9-Inch Round Aluminum Pan: A small piece of cake clung to this pan’s uncoated collar during removal, leaving an unattractive hole in our cheesecake. Plus, it was harder to remove cheesecake from this pan’s recessed base. * Rachael Ray Oven Lovin' Nonstick Bakeware Springform Baking Pan: This pan has a small capacity, was challenging to maneuver in and out of the oven, and was tedious to assemble and clean.
FAQsWhat do I do if my springform pan is leaking?First, check that you’ve attached the springform pan’s collar correctly. Some collars have a specific way they should be used with a top and bottom (some can be used either way). Ensure that the gaskets or buckle are closed securely. Next, make sure you’re not baking anything that is too thin. Although two of the pans in our lineup, from Williams Sonoma and USA Pan, were leakproof even with water, most springform pans are not sealed well enough to be used with a very thin liquid. You will be better off using a traditional cake pan for those recipes. Lastly, you can try wrapping the base of your pan with aluminum foil to prevent leaking.
How do I remove food from my springform pan?Before you remove the springform pan’s collar, make sure the food you baked is completely cool. Remove the collar by sliding the vertical gaskets up on both sides of the collar or by releasing the collar’s buckle. If you’d like to remove the food from the base, use a long offset spatula. Begin sliding the offset spatula under the food at several spots along the outside of the cake, loosening the food from the base as you go. When enough of the cake has been loosened, slide the entire offset under the food, releasing it completely. Then, use a larger spatula to move the food to a plate from which you can cut and serve.
Can I cut directly on the base of the springform pan?Although many people cut directly on the base of springform pans, we don’t recommend it and neither do manufacturers. Manufacturers of nonstick pans are specific about not using metal utensils or knives on pans. It will cause visible scratches and damage the nonstick coating. We tested the durability of each pan by cutting the pan 10 times. All of the pans retained some visible damage from cutting, though some were more scratch-resistant than others. Regardless, we don’t recommend it.
How do I clean my springform pan?Most of the manufacturers of the springform pans we tested recommend or require hand-washing their pans with warm soap and water. Only one pan, from Cuisinart, is dishwasher-safe. However, we know from years of testing that hand-washing pans, especially those with nonstick coatings, prolongs the pans’ lives and coatings.
Is there any food I cannot bake in a springform pan?Many foods can be baked in a springform pan, but if you’re baking something very thin and liquidy without a crust underneath, you should use a traditionalcake pan instead. While two of the pans in our lineup were completely leakproof, most springform pans don’t have that same exceptional seal and are therefore not meant to be used with very thin liquids.
Can you make cheesecake without a springform pan?Baking legendStella Parks actually eschews springform pans altogether and uses this cake pan instead, especially when making this cheesecake recipe. According to Stella, once you chill this cheesecake overnight, you can place the cake pan in a few inches of hot water for a few minutes and then turn the cake pan over and the cheesecake will come right out.
Why We’re the Experts More than 10 years ago, Carolyn Grillo started her food career as a baker at Flour Bakery + Cafe led by James Beard Award-winning baker Joanne Chang. * While working for America’s Test Kitchen for nine years she tested numerous pieces of equipment, including cake pans, rolling pins, sauté pans, rice cookers, and mini muffin tins. These stories, along with roughly 25 ingredient reviews, were published both online and in print for Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country* magazines. * For this review, we tested nine springform pans. We used them to bake cheesecake. We also evaluated whether the pans leaked, how easy they were to use and clean, and how durable they were.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeChow-chow, the sweet and tangy relish of pickled vegetables, is a staple condiment on many Southern tables. While it’s beloved throughout the South, the types of vegetables in it can vary depending on where you find it. Here we stick with one of the most common combinations: green tomatoes, green cabbage, bell peppers, and onions. The pickled vegetable mixture is a great way to make the most of end-of-season green tomatoes and other late summer produce before that first frost hits.
The chunky relish is tart, sweet, and sure to bring a welcome pucker to your mouth. And it keeps in the fridge for up to four months, so you can pull it out to brighten up almost any meal—hot dogs, hamburgers, coleslaw, stewed beans, and even salads.
Making the relish is fairly simple: The vegetables are simply chopped, salted, and pickled in the fridge with a medley of spices, but it’s important to prepare the vegetables properly for chow-chow that’s flavorful and retains a crisp texture. For the best chow-chow to take you from summer right through the coldest days of fall, we asked our test kitchen colleague Renu Dhar to methodically pickle batch after batch to come up with our foolproof method. Read on for Renu's tips and the full recipe.
Tips for Making Chow-ChowUse a food processor. We strongly encourage you to pull out your food processor to chop the cabbage, bell pepper, and onion in this recipe instead of chopping the ingredients by hand. This will save you a lot of time and energy. If you don’t have a food processor, of course go ahead and just chop everything with a chef's knife—just be sure your knife is good and sharp for the safest, most efficient chopping. One exception to the food processor suggestion: Be sure to still cut the tomatoes by hand. Pulsing them in a food processor will give them a sauce-like consistency, which we do not want for this relish.
Salt the vegetables overnight before pickling. It’s crucial to toss the chopped vegetables with an abundant amount of salt and let them sit for an extended period of time before pickling them. During this hands-off resting time, the vegetables will release excess liquid, which will be later discarded before they are pickled. We’ve previously talked at length about the benefits of brining vegetables, and encourage you to read about it. Essentially, brining drives water out of the cut vegetables, concentrating flavor and firming up their texture slightly for a more delicious, perfectly crunchy relish.
For best results, start the brining process at room temperature and let the veggies sit for about 20 minutes to jump start the process, then refrigerate the bowl of salted chopped vegetables for at least eight hours or up to 12. You’ll be amazed by how much water seeps out of them in this time frame—almost three full cups water from about four pounds of vegetables! When you're ready to pickle, drain and discard all of the excess liquid before proceeding with the recipe.
Add robust seasonings. Earthy turmeric, fiery chile flakes, tangy mustard powder, brown mustard seeds, and celery seeds add a pop of flavor to the otherwise simple vegetable mixture. This blend of spices is flavorful enough to add interest to the relish without overwhelming the vegetables, making it perfect to pair with a range of foods.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeTips for Storing and Canning Chow-ChowThe recipe was tested and written using short term refrigeration storage, which will preserve the chow-chow for about four months. But the pickled chow-chow can also be preserved using the hot water bath canning method that we outline in our beginner’s guide to canning. With this method, the chow-chow can be stored for up to a year. Whether you opt for the hot water bath canning method or the easier refrigeration storage, we recommend always using sterilized glass jars.
How to Sterilize Jars for Your RelishTo properly sterilize jars, place clean jars on a rack in a large pot and cover by at least one inch of water. Bring to a boil and sterilize the jars by boiling for 10 minutes. You can then remove the jars with long metal tongs and fill right away, or reduce the heat to a low simmer and hold the jars warm until you’re ready to use them. Make sure to cool the filled jars to room temperature before sealing and refrigerating. This will prevent trapping excessive steam in the jars, which could lead to mold growth.
How to Serve Chow-ChowOne of the best things about chow-chow is its versatility, and how it adds bright, sweet and tangy flavor to everything you pair with it. Spread the Southern relish over a hot dog or a burger, mix it in a one-to-one ratio by volume with good mayonnaise for the perfect coleslaw dressing or sandwich spread, or spunk up a bowl of beans with a spoonful chow-chow and a side of cornbread.
In a food processor, pulse cabbage until finely chopped (pieces measure about ¼-inch), about 6 pulses. Transfer to a large nonreactive bowl (such as stainless steel or glass). In now-empty food processor, pulse the onion, red, green, and yellow bell peppers until finely chopped and add to bowl with cabbage. (Alternatively, use a sharp chef's knife to finely chop all ingredients by hand.) Stir tomatoes and salt into the bowl with cabbage until well combined. Let sit at room temperature until vegetables start to release moisture, about 20 minutes. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 12 hours.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeDrain vegetable mixture using a fine-mesh strainer set over a large bowl, pressing lightly with back of a wooden spoon; discard liquid.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeIn a large saucepan, bring vinegar, sugar, ground mustard, mustard seeds, crushed red pepper, celery seeds, and turmeric to a boil, stirring to combine, over medium heat. Reduce heat to low, and simmer brine until mustard seeds slightly plump up and mixture looks cohesive, 5 to 7 minutes.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeStir drained vegetables into brine mix and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until vegetables are crisp tender, 1 to 5 minutes. Let vegetables cool completely before placing in 3 pint-sized clean, sterilized heat-safe glass jars, and refrigerate for 12 hours to further develop flavor before serving.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeSpecial EquipmentFood processor, fine-mesh strainer, large saucepan, 3 pint-sized glass heat-safe storage jars
Make-Ahead and StorageChow-chow can be refrigerated for up to 4 months.
Serious Eats / Julia EstradaOne of my favorite side dishes to make in the summer is a Caprese salad. With sweet, juicy tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, aromatic basil, and good quality olive oil (no balsamic vinegar here!), I can serve a standout side dish that requires just a few simple ingredients. That’s the beauty of summer and the produce it brings—when the fruits and veggies are as good as they are, you really don’t need much to make them shine.
Below, we’ve put together a list of 10 recipes—including the beloved Caprese—that require only five ingredients or fewer (not counting pantry staples like salt and olive oil). Think salads, roasted and air-fried veggies, and even some fried potatoes. You won’t want the summer to pass you by without making at least one of these.
Watermelon, Feta, and Mint SaladSerious Eats / Liz VoltzReaching for the juiciest watermelon you can find is key to getting this salad right.
Air-Fryer Green BeansSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeYou can make crisp, lightly blistered green beans in your air fryer in under 10 minutes. They’re great as-is or dressed up with one of our four easy flavor variations.
20 Minute Air-Fryer CauliflowerSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeGet dinner on the table fast with our recipe for crisp, tender air-fryer cauliflower. Enjoy it as is, or dress it up with our three easy variations.
Creamed Shishito PeppersSasha MarxThis recipe is perfect as a stand-alone side dish, a pizza topping, a taco filling, and so much more.
Fried Papas Criollas (Colombian-style Creamy Fried Potatoes)Serious Eats / Diana ChistrugaThese Colombian-style potatoes are lightly fried whole, resulting in a supremely creamy and tender texture when you bite into them.
Kachumbari (East African Tomato Salad)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis vibrant mixture of fresh tomatoes tossed with raw onion, chile pepper, cilantro, and lime or lemon juice is a staple salad in East African countries.
Charcoal Chimney–Grilled Broccolini With XO SauceVicky WasikMake a better version of grilled broccolini by using the intense heat of a charcoal chimney starter.
Caprese SaladSerious Eats / Julia EstradaIn this recipe, the only trick is to use high-quality, in-season ingredients… and put the balsamic back in the cupboard.
Marinated Mozzarella, Cherry Tomato, and Basil SaladSerious Eats / Diana ChistrugaBy using cherry or grape tomatoes and ciliegine mozzarella, this recipe gives you the best flavors of a Caprese salad without all the fuss of chopping.
Blistered-Tomato Pasta Salad With BasilDaniel GritzerHere, pasta salad gets a thoughtful upgrade by cooking the tomatoes just until bursting so that they release their rich juices into a flavorful sauce.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn 1840, Anna Maria Russell, one of Queen Victoria’s ladies in waiting and the seventh Duchess of Bedford, reportedly experienced “a sinking feeling” during the long hours between lunch and dinner. The cure? A cup of tea, some sandwiches, and a slice of cake—a light meal now referred to as afternoon tea. Like the Duchess, I also experience a sinking feeling in the afternoons; when I lived and studied in the UK, my friends and I frequently scurried off from the school library in search of tea and cake or scones in the afternoons. We often sat down to slices of Victoria sponge, a classic British dessert and afternoon tea standby that consists of strawberry jam and whipped cream between two tender sponge cakes lightly dusted with powdered sugar. Though I no longer live in Britain, the cake is still one of my favorite desserts, and one I often make for friends and family for tea time or an after-dinner treat.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezA Brief History of Victoria SpongeAlso known as the Victoria sandwich, the cake is named after Queen Victoria, who reportedly enjoyed the dessert daily as part of her afternoon tea, according to Buckingham Palace, among other sources. Alysa Levine, author of Cake: A Slice of History, notes that the Victoria sponge has its roots in pound cake, or what the French call “quatre quarts.” Meaning “four fourths,” the name refers to the equal parts of butter, flour, sugar, and eggs used to prepare classic pound cake. Pound cake took off in the 18th century, when trade and industrialization meant that wealthy Victorians had access to refined white flour and granulated sugar. Chemist Alfred Bird’s invention of baking powder in 1843, along with the increasing popularity of the whisk, made it much easier for cooks to whip up airier cakes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThough most iterations of Victoria sponge today have a layer of whipped cream and strawberry jam, there was no whipped cream in the earliest versions of the dessert. A recipe for Victoria sponge in Matilda Marian Pullan’s 1854 The Modern Housewife’s Receipt Book calls for apricot or raspberry jam as a filling, while Isabella Mary Beeton’s 1867 The Englishwoman’s Cookery Book instructs cooks to use “any kind of jam or marmalade.”
It wasn’t until the late 1900s that whipped cream started appearing in recipes with regularity; even more unclear is when strawberry jam—and not other fruit preserves—became the standard filling for the cake. Today, the Victoria sponge remains popular in Britain, where it’s so beloved that many consider it “more than a cake” and “an emblem of national identity,” Levine writes.
Today's Victoria SpongeMany bakers put their own spin on the cake: In her book Love Is a Pink Cake, pastry chef Claire Ptak prepares her Victoria sponge with brown sugar, which yields a moister cake. (At her Dalston, London bakery Violet Cakes, Ptak offers a more traditional cake made with granulated sugar; she fills the cake with raspberry jam and whipped cream and dusts the cake with confectioners' sugar and raspberry powder.) Fortnum and Mason, the British department store that dates back to the 18th century, offers their Victoria sponge with fresh strawberries atop whipped cream. And at Peggy Porschen, another London bakery, the Victoria sponge is sandwiched with a strawberry and elderflower purée and frosted with a lemon and vanilla buttercream.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLike those bakers, I’ve put a slight twist on the dessert. The pound cake–like sponge of a classic Victoria sandwich is often too heavy for my liking, and the strawberry jam a touch too sweet. So in my recipe below, I’ve opted for hot milk cake, a fluffy sponge with just enough heft and structure to carry the jam and whipped cream. Seasoning the jam with fresh lemon juice brings necessary acidity, while lightly salting the whipped cream balances out the entire dessert and prevents it from being cloying. I also brush the cake with a lemon simple syrup, which keeps it moist. Is it the most traditional Victoria sponge? Perhaps not. But it is my ideal version. Here’s how to make it.
5 Tips for Making the Best Victoria SpongeLine your cake pans with parchment, then grease and flour your pans. To prevent your cake from sticking to the bottom of the pan, I recommend lining the bottom with parchment paper. Greasing the paper and sides of the pan with butter and lightly dusting the pans with flour creates a barrier that prevents the fat from melting directly into the cake batter, while also making it easy to turn out once it’s cooled.
Use a hot milk sponge cake. Unlike cakes that are made by beating room temperature butter and sugar together, the hot milk cake comes together by whisking whole eggs until pale and doubled in volume, pouring in milk and fat (typically butter), then gently incorporating the dry ingredients. It’s easier and faster to prepare than a traditional butter cake, and is just as (if not more…) delicious. The cake gets loft from whipped whole eggs—which traps air bubbles that expand as the batter bakes—and tenderness from the milk and liquid fat that coats the flour.
In my recipe below, I call for a neutral oil. Unlike butter, which typically contains 80 to 82% butterfat, oil is 100% fat. In doughs and batters, fats coat the gluten proteins glutenin and gliadin, limiting gluten development. Because oil is 100% fat, it more effectively coats those proteins, making a lighter, fluffier cake.
Brush the cake with simple syrup. One of the best ways to prevent cake from drying out is to brush it with simple syrup, a trick I learned as a pastry cook. Many simple syrups I learned to make had a one to one ratio of water to sugar, but that often produces a thicker syrup that’s much too sweet paired with an already sweet cake. Here, I use two parts water to one part sugar, with an additional tablespoon of fresh lemon juice to add brightness. You want to brush just enough syrup on the cake to help moisten it, but avoid soaking the cake completely, as that will result in a soggy crumb.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSeason the strawberry jam with lemon juice. A tablespoon of lemon juice adds acidity to the jam; this prevents the jam from being excessively sweet and also helps highlight the flavor of the fruit.
Lightly salt the whipped cream. Is it really necessary to salt whipped cream? No. But is seasoned whipped cream more delicious? Absolutely. As with just about every other food, both savory and sweet, a touch of salt helps round out and enhance the flavor of the whipped cream and the whole dessert.
Adjust rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350ºF (175ºC). Butter two 9-inch aluminum cake pans with unsalted butter, then dust with cake flour, shaking out excess.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a medium bowl, whisk together cake flour, baking powder, and salt; set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large measuring cup, combine milk with vegetable oil.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip eggs and granulated sugar on medium-high speed until yolks are thick and pale yellow color, and doubled in volume, 5 to 7 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezReduce mixer speed to low, and slowly pour in milk and oil mixture. Continue to whisk until combined, about 15 seconds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWith the mixer on low speed, gradually add the dry mixture 1/4 cup at a time, until just incorporated, about 2 minutes. Using a flexible spatula, scrape down sides and bottom of the bowl to ensure there are no dry bits. (If any remain, use spatula to gently fold until incorporated.) Divide batter between prepared cake pans (about 455g each) and gently tap cake pans on kitchen counter to eliminate any large air bubbles.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBake, rotating halfway through, until cake has risen by about 1 inch, is light golden, and springs back when gently touched, 17 to 20 minutes. Transfer pans to a wire rack and allow cakes to cool in pans for 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRun an offset spatula or butter knife around the edges of cake, then carefully invert cake onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Let cool completely, at least 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Simple Syrup: In a small saucepan, whisk water, lemon juice, and granulated sugar to combine. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook, whisking occasionally, until sugar is dissolved, about 4 minutes. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo Assemble: In a medium bowl, whisk together strawberry jam with lemon juice; set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine heavy cream, confectioners’ sugar, salt, and vanilla extract. Whip on medium-high speed until medium-stiff peaks form, about 2 minutes. (Alternatively, combine cream, sugar, salt, and vanilla extract in a large mixing bowl. Using a hand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat on medium speed until medium stiff peaks form, about 3 minutes.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPlace one cake on a large plate or a turntable. Using a pastry brush, brush cake with about 1 tablespoon simple syrup to moisten. Using an offset spatula, spread strawberry jam mixture evenly from edge to edge. Cover jam with all of the whipped cream, using an offset spatula to spread into an even and smooth layer. Top with second cake layer and gently press to adhere to whipped cream. Dust with powdered sugar, if using, and serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentTwo 9-inch cake pans, whisk, stand mixer, flexible spatula, parchment, rimmed baking sheet, wire rack, offset spatula or butter knife, small saucepan, large plate or turntable, pastry brush
Make-Ahead and StorageOnce completely cooled, cakes can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and stored at room temperature for up to 24 hours.
The jam mixture can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container.
Once layered with jam and whipped cream, the cake can be loosely wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days.
Getty Images / Yuji Sakai, Brian HagiwaraHow is it that ants are always the heroes in children’s fables and movies, but when you find them in your kitchen in real life they might as well be six-legged supervillains?
But you don’t have to share your pantry with these eusocial menaces. With a little knowledge, the right tools, and a lot of persistence, you can show your unwanted guests the way out.
We spoke with two experts—an entomologist and a technical director at Terminix—about how to get rid of ants in your kitchen, your pantry, your living room, your hallways, your bathroom, and anywhere else in your home you want to be ant-free.
How Do Ants Get Inside Your Home?First of all, that cartoon image of an ant general wearing an army helmet sniffing out your snacks with its antenna and then ordering its followers to invade your home, barbecue, or picnic? Apparently, scientists say, that’s not how it happens in real life. “It’s not that they detect the food from the outside,” says Molly Keck, an entomologist and integrated pest management program specialist with the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension outside of San Antonio. “They forage, then they make a trail. They’re not like bees that do more of the scouting and trailing.”
In fact, it’s often the case that ants get inside your house less for what’s inside than to escape what’s outside. “They may be coming inside because of flooding outside, because it’s freezing outside, or because it’s a drought,” says Keck.
Cody James Pace, associate certified entomologist and market technical director for Terminix, says ants find their way inside the home via cracks in walls, gaps around doors and windows, and vents. "Once inside, ants can establish trails along baseboards, under sinks, and near food storage areas," Pace explains. "Ants can quickly and quietly invade your home,” laying down pheromones for other ants from their colony to follow. “Most ants are just a nuisance problem, but if they find their way into your pantry, they can get into open food containers, devouring anything they find,” he says.
How Do You Know What Kind of Ants You Have?If you’ve got ants in your kitchen, it’s understandable that you’d want to skip ahead to the part about getting rid of them, but it’s not that simple.
“It really depends where you are—there are a lot of different species, and certain parts of the country have species that other parts don’t have,” says Keck. “Every species nests differently, forages differently, and has different management practices.”
For example, south central Texans dealing with ants in their kitchens are usually struggling with sugar ants, also called pharaoh ants; they could also encounter tawny crazy ants, which create huge swarms in the millions, or even army ants (though the type of army ant in Texas is almost entirely subterranean and not a serious risk to humans).
In most American homes, Pace says, the most common ants folks may be dealing with are Argentine ants (especially on the West Coast), odorous house ants, pavement ants, carpenter ants, fire ants (especially on the Gulf Coast), or crazy ants.
“To properly identify them often requires some level of magnification where you have to look at features on the exoskeleton, such as grooves, the number of segments in the antennae, and the number of nodes (like bumps on the waist) on the segment between the thorax and abdomen,” he says.
Of course, considering that there are over 15,000 known species of ants and not all of us are entomologists, it’s not a simple matter of whipping out your infestation’s Latin name with the help of the same magnifying glass you use for your stamp collection. But you can try to reach out to your local extension service, which should know which species you’re most likely dealing with in your area and suggest the best ways to eliminate them from your home. You can also speak to professional exterminators, who can visit your home and set up the appropriate treatment themselves—for a fee, of course.
Ultimately, the most important thing to know is that all ants (and all pests and even animals in general) are looking for three fundamental things. “They have to have food, water, and harborage,” says Keck. “If those three things are available in a home, that’s why they’ll be there.”
For food, “[a]ll of them prefer different things,” Keck says. “If they’re on your cake, you know they’re into sweet stuff. If they’re on potato chips, you know they’re into greasy stuff. But there are other ants [that] are just inside because it’s cold outside and they have found a cozy place in your house.”
Pace notes that most ants like sugary foods because it’s readily converted to energy for the nonstop workers. But, generally speaking, “when a colony is trying to grow and produce a lot of eggs,” they’re looking for protein. If they’re at the stage where they need to support a large colony, usually later in the summer, they forage for carbohydrates.
How Do You Get Rid of Ants in Your Home?Getty Images / RHJOnce you’ve figured out what the ants are eating, remove that food source. Then, it’s time to get rid of those chemical markers the initial ants left for the rest of the colony to follow. Vacuum the ant trails (any paths where you’ve seen ants, since the pheromones they leave for others from their colony will remain, but also the crumbs and any ants following it) and wipe the area down with soapy, warm water. Don’t use scented soap or chemical cleaners, which can contain fragrances that may actually attract more ants.
Find out where the ants are getting into the house by following their trails or looking for gaps to the exterior, then caulk those holes or plug them up with petroleum jelly. Then try laying down ant baits, which will work for many ant species. Popular and readily available brands include Terro, Hot Shot, Raid and Homeplus.
“Baits are a key tool for managing ants, and the only type of insecticide recommended in most situations,” says Pace. “Ants are attracted to the bait and recruit other workers to it. Workers carry small portions of the bait back to the nest, where it is transferred mouth to mouth to other workers, larvae, and queens to kill the entire colony.” Baits are safer and more effective than sprays, but that’s partially because they’re slower-acting—the point is for the forages to bring the poison back to the nest, not die instantly. Since baits take time, though, keep wiping down those ant trails until the baits start to take effect over the following days and weeks.
If you’re seeing an increase in the number of ants or ant trails, massive swarms, any evidence that the ants are actually nesting inside the building, structural damage to your house, or other serious issues, call in professional help.
What About Borax, Baking Soda, and Other Homemade Remedies?While the two experts I spoke to favor the methods described above for getting rid of ants, many people swear by homemade solutions. One common DIY treatment for getting rid of ants is mixing Borax—also known as boric acid, a mineral salt that’s made up of boron, sodium, oxygen, and water—with sugar. The idea is that the ants will be attracted to the sugar and ingest the sugar and boric acid mixture, then head back to their colony and spread the poison to other ants, including the queen ant.
However, there are a few problems with this method. First off, Borax can be toxic to humans—especially infants—and pets if not applied properly. Additionally, it’s not always easy to know how much to use; too much of it may cause the ants not to eat the bait at all or to die before returning to their colonies, and too little of it may render the mixture ineffective. Different species of ants may take longer to react to the poison, and some may not even react at all. And of course, not all ants are attracted to sugar, in which case the mixture wouldn’t lure them in.
Other home remedies include mixing baking soda (another mineral salt) with confectioners' sugar, which again poses an issue with ants who aren’t attracted to sugar. Solutions made up of dish soap, vinegar, and baking soda will remove the pheromone trail ants leave behind, making it harder to find their way around, but that still won’t prevent them from coming inside through holes or gaps in windows and doors.
How Do You Prevent Ants From Getting Inside Your Home?What if you want to make sure you never have an ant problem in the first place?
Assuming you’re taking the basic precautions (fixing holes, broken windows, gaps in the thresholds of your doors, etc.) and practicing basic sanitation (not leaving food out, cleaning up regularly), you should be realistic about the fact that ants will, at least occasionally, get inside your house—unless you’re willing to hermetically seal your home, never go outside, and live out your life in the residential equivalent of a microprocessor factory.
“You can try to seal things up, but ants are tiny, so that’s nearly impossible,” says Keck. “I’m not sure there’s anything prevention-wise besides just taking care of the problem whenever you deduce it is a problem for you…in the South, it’s when fire ants get inside. Beyond that, there’s not a lot of preventative stuff you can do. Figure out how you got them, what you have, remove the things they nest or hide under. Prevention’s probably not possible for most ant species.”
Can You Get Rid of Ants Permanently?In the long-term war of humans versus ants, the ants will always win, Keck says. You will never be able to get rid of all the ants that threaten your pantry.
“You’d have to nuke the world to be able to do that,” she says. “Some ants will pick up baits, some will not. With some ants, you can spray their trails, but with others, when you spray their trails they will bud.” By "budding" she means that the ants will start to fork off from their original trails and create new ones, making it even harder to eliminate them.
And even if you removed all the food from inside your home and ate out for every meal, the ants around your home will do what they do best: survive. They will simply continue to forage for foods outside, whether that be vegetables, fungus, or other insects. And when they have the opportunity or need to invade your home again—and you inevitably break down and order a pizza—they’ll be back.
How Do You Have an Ant-Free Picnic?So far, we’ve been talking solely about keeping your home ant free. But when you’re picnicking outside, you’re the one who’s invading the ants’ home.
“If you don’t want ants at a picnic, don’t eat outside, where they are,” says Keck. “If you’re going to go outside with food, you have to expect them to come to you.”
The TakeawayAnts are an inescapable fact of life. They were roaming the earth long before us and will continue to do so long after the last human is gone—in a lot of ways, it’s the ants’ planet and we’re the pesky new invaders. To deal with ants that have made it inside, try to identify the type of ants that may be entering your home, then make sure to eliminate their food sources, vacuum up their trails, seal any gaps in your home where they may be getting in, lay down bait, and keep your home clean. With a little bit of knowledge, a tiny bit of sleuthing, a lot of patience, and realistic expectations, you can make some headway in keeping the world of the ants on the outside of your front door.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeWhen I was 14, I purchased a copy of Fergal Connolly’s 500 Cupcakes: The Only Cupcake Compendium You’ll Ever Need. I had just developed an interest in baking and having this book at home spelled doom for my parents and their kitchen: I spent afternoons and weekends creating a giant mess whipping up all kinds of cupcakes, some more delicious than others. I begged my parents for a stand mixer, and they acquiesced after they realized that baking was probably a healthier habit for their adolescent daughter than…some other habits. I brought cupcakes to every party, every bake sale, every family gathering, foisting them on anyone who paused to ask how I was doing. The one recipe that never let me down was the vanilla cupcake, which I turned to over and over again. It was the crowd favorite, the one my friends expected me to show up with.
When I saw that my test kitchen colleague Anna Theokisto developed a recipe for vanilla cupcakes, I jumped at the chance to make them. To come up with the very best cupcakes, Anna methodically tested every recipe variable possible—including the best kind of flour, fat, and liquid to use—until she landed on what another coworker describes as the “perfect vanilla cupcakes.” Anna’s recipe hit all the right spots: With a fine, tender crumb and just the right amount of vanilla, these cupcakes are easy enough to make on a weeknight, but also special enough for a celebration. In other words, they are everything I want in a cupcake. Here’s how to make them.
5 Tips for Making the Best Vanilla CupcakesCream the butter and sugar well. As former editor Stella Parks noted in her classic vanilla butter cake recipe, butter is best beaten when it’s at soft but cool room temperature—ideally 65ºF or 18ºC. At this temperature, butter is pliable enough to beat with the sugar, which aerates the batter. Adequately creaming the butter and sugar traps air bubbles in the batter; as the cake bakes in the oven, these bubbles expand, helping the cake rise. “Without those air bubbles,” Stella writes, “butter and sugar form an ultra-dense paste that gives cakes the texture of a wet brick.”
Use room temperature ingredients. Because we’re using room temperature butter, it’s essential that all the other ingredients are also at room temperature. Incorporate cold eggs or milk into the batter, and chances are you will curdle the batter, ruining the emulsion and aeration you worked so hard to achieve when creaming the butter and sugar.
Reach for bleached cake flour. Flours have different protein contents, which indicate gluten potential. The higher a flour’s protein content, the more gluten it can potentially develop in a dough or batter. While all-purpose flour typically contains nine to 12 percent protein, cake flour generally ranges from seven to eight percent protein, making the latter ideal for tender cakes and pastries. Unlike unbleached cake flour, bleached flour is treated with chlorine. As Stella notes in her guide to the ingredient, this gives the batter more time to rise, and produces “super-lofty” and well-risen cakes.
Alternate the dry ingredients and liquids. It may be tempting to add all the flour or liquid at once, but resist, as it can overwhelm the batter. Alternating the ingredients on low speed ensures that each is properly incorporated, resulting in a smooth, evenly mixed batter.
Decorate with a piping tip. For that extra-special touch, fit a piping bag with your favorite tip and pipe a dramatic rosette, cute little stars, or delicate petals with your frosting of choice. And if you can’t be bothered? Slathering the icing on with an offset spatula is just fine.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeAdjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F (175ºC). Place paper baking cups in two 12-cup muffin pans. Fit a piping bag with desired piping tip; set aside.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeIn a medium bowl, whisk flour, baking powder, and salt to combine; set aside. In a small bowl, whisk together whole milk and sour cream until smooth; set aside.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeIn a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat butter and sugar together on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition, followed by the vanilla. Reduce speed to low and add about 1/4 of the flour mixture, then drizzle in 1/3 of milk and sour cream mixture. Beat at low speed until just blended after each addition. Repeat adding in increments, beginning and ending with flour mixture. Use a flexible spatula to scrape bowl, if necessary, and beat at low speed until combined, about 1 minute. Divide batter equally between baking cups, filling each about 2/3 of the way.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeBake until a wooden toothpick or cake tester inserted into center of cupcakes comes out clean and cupcakes spring back lightly when touched, about 18 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes, then remove cupcakes from pan and allow them to cool completely on wire rack, about 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeUsing a flexible spatula, scrape buttercream into prepared piping bag. Pipe buttercream on top of each cupcake until completely covered. (Alternatively, use an offset spatula to spread buttercream on top of each cupcake until completely covered.) Repeat with remaining cupcakes.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeSpecial EquipmentTwo 12-cup muffin pans, piping bag, piping tip, stand mixer, flexible spatula, wooden toothpick or cake tester, wire rack, flexible spatula, offset spatula
Make-Ahead and StorageFrosted cupcakes can be kept at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
Unfrosted cupcakes can be tightly wrapped in plastic wrap and frozen for up to 3 months. When ready to frost, thaw overnight at room temperature.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleFor many Ukrainians, including myself, varenyky are a family and communal affair, a meal synonymous with home. The plump, tender dumplings are beloved and eaten throughout Ukraine, with numerous variations on the dough, filling, and toppings. One of my earliest memories is of my family closely huddled around my grandparents’ tiny kitchen table making and eating varenyky in Mariupol, with my grandmother teaching my sisters and I how to fill and shape them. To this day, sitting down to enjoy a bowl of varenyky reminds me of cooking and feasting on dumplings with my family in her bustling, chatter-filled kitchen, a tradition I’m keeping alive here in the United States with my husband and sister.
What Are Varenyky?“Varenyky” comes from the verb “varyty,” which means “to boil.” Traditionally, varenyky are crescent or half-moon shaped. Nowadays, many Ukrainian households also prepare triangular dumplings. Though varenyky are usually boiled, they may come steamed or fried depending on where you are in Ukraine. Savory varenyky filled with vegetables, cheese, or meat are served as a main course, while sweet, fruit-filled dumplings are reserved for dessert. In some parts of western Ukraine, varenyky are called pyrohy, which comes from “pierogi,” the Polish word for dumplings. (“Pierogi” comes from the proto-Slavic word “pir,” meaning feast.)
Despite their popularity, varenyky are not considered an everyday food. Rather, the dumplings are reserved for special occasions, including weddings, the birth of a child, funerals, harvests, and seasonal festivals. For example, during Maslyana, a festival welcoming spring, varenyky with syr, a fresh curd cheese similar to ricotta or cottage cheese, are always eaten. The dumplings are also an essential part of Sviata Vecheria, a 12-course Ukrainian meal traditionally eaten on Christmas Eve. These tiny varenyky are filled with minced mushrooms, are significantly smaller, and are served in a beet consomme, a dish called vushka, which means “little ear.”
Varenyky are symbols of prosperity, and are often prepared and eaten with the intention of bringing health, fertility, and abundant harvests. Many Ukrainians believed eating varenyky during harvest would bring good fortune while also providing them with the strength needed for harvesting.
Recipes for the dumplings vary significantly across Ukraine, and the ingredients used are often driven by what’s available regionally and seasonally, as well as local cooking traditions. The more Ukrainian cookbooks I read, the more I realize there are as many variations of varenyky as there are Ukrainians. In Zakarpattia, a region in western Ukraine, a local cheese called bryndza is used to fill the dumplings. In Lviv, a city close to the Polish border, varenyky made with a hearty spelt dough is popular. In the north, in Chernihiv, cabbage and mushroom star in the dumplings, and cooks almost always garnish varenyky with bacon crackling. In Polisia, a northern region that borders Belarus, varenyky are filled with hemp seeds and kidney beans.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleCommon Varenyky Fillings and ToppingsA great introduction to varenyky are the two most common savory vegetarian fillings: potato and syr. Other popular ingredients are meat, mushrooms, and sauerkraut. Savory varenyky are often served with fried salo or shkvarky (Ukrainian bacon), bacon fat, sautéed onions, and of course, buckets of smetana, a Ukrainian sour cream. Other less common savory fillings eaten throughout the country include poppy seed, sauerkraut, liver, pork, nettles, buckwheat, among many others. There are sweet fillings, too—the most popular being sour cherries and blueberries—and they are often served as dessert with sour cream, a drizzle of honey, or a sprinkle of sugar.
Varenyky DoughBefore flour was commercially available, cooks prepared varenyky with all kinds of freshly milled flours, including spelt, buckwheat, corn, barley, and rye. Today, white flour is primarily used to make varenyky dough. The only other two agreed upon ingredients are salt and water. The rest of the ingredients vary depending on the cook; browsing old Ukrainian cookbooks, I noticed numerous variations in dough ingredients. The most common ingredients, however, are milk, kefir, sour cream, butter, potatoes, syr, and eggs.
Regardless of the abundance in fillings and subtle variations in dough, there are several important characteristics that all varenyky should have: the dough has to be tender and the dumpling needs to have the proper ratio of dough to filling so they are well-filled. The plumpness of your varenyky will depend on the filling you use. Although it might feel overwhelming to consider all the varenyky varieties, these few important characterics—the tenderness of the dough, the flavor of the fillings, and the rich toppings—will always guarantee a delicious dumpling.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleHow to Make Great Varenyky at HomeMake sure the dough is enriched. Unlike many other dumpling doughs, which consist of just flour, water, salt, and sometimes egg, varenyky dough is almost always enriched with sour cream, butter, milk, kefir, or oil. These fats are essential for producing a tender dough, as they coat the gluten proteins glutenin and gliadin, preventing them from forming chains that can result in a tough, chewy dough.
There is a big schism among varenyky makers on whether or not the inclusion of an egg is necessary. The fat in the egg yolks, however—along with the ingredients mentioned above—keeps the dough soft and allows just enough gluten to develop so the dough can easily be rolled out without tearing. In my recipe below, I call for butter, egg, and sour cream, which produces a sturdy yet tender dough.
Knead the dough by hand—and incorporate flour gradually. Though we do want some gluten development to provide structure for the dumpling wrappers, I recommend hand-kneading the dough to minimize the risk of developing too much gluten. Here, I recommend incorporating the flour gradually; adding too much flour at once makes it harder to incorporate, and as you knead and knead, the dough becomes too tough for varenyky. As you gradually add the flour you begin to feel the difference in the consistency and can stop adding flour when the dough starts feeling just a tad too stiff.
I developed this recipe using King Arthur Baking’s all-purpose flour, which has a protein percentage of 11.7%. As former Serious Eats editor Kristina Razon wrote in her guide to flours, the higher a flour’s protein content, the more gluten the dough can potentially develop. If you are using a flour with a lower protein percentage, you may need to use additional flour and knead for a little longer. The final dough should feel as if you are grabbing an unflexed muscle like a bicep or calf: the dough should be soft with just a tiny bit of resistance.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleUse a fresh cheese if possible. I recommend making this recipe with syr, which is the most traditional filling and will result in dumplings that most closely resemble the ones I grew up eating. The enemy here is moisture, since we don’t want a runny filling, you will want to eliminate as much moisture from the filling as you can. Excess moisture makes it difficult to properly seal the dumpling; it can also make the dough wet and sticky, compromising the dumpling’s structure during the cooking process. A firmer filling is more compact and easier to work with, making it possible to squeeze more filling into the wrapper. .
If you can’t find syr, a farmer cheese, quark, and cottage cheese is a great alternative. I recommend straining the cottage cheese for at least 24 hours before mixing the filling to remove as much moisture as possible. Keep the filling cold and only remove it from the fridge once you are ready to shape your varenyky, as it’s much easier to work with the cheese when it’s cold. A popular spin on this traditional filling is to add fresh chopped herbs such as dill to the filling, a favorite of many Ukrainians.
Salt your cooking water. You want to make sure the water is well-salted, similar to pasta. This seemingly unimportant step can impact the final flavor of the dumplings you worked so hard on. Gently stir the water when adding the dumplings to the boiling water to ensure none stick to the bottom of the pot, which can tear the dough.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleAvoid overcooking. Overcooked varenyky will be much too soft, and are also more likely to break during the cooking process. The dumplings are done once they float to the top. Sometimes, air can get trapped in the dumpling; the air pockets can cause dumplings to float prematurely. To compensate for that and ensure the dumplings are properly cooked, I boil my varenyky for an additional minute once they float.
Don’t forget the toppings. The toppings are as important as the filling and the dough. It’s an unspoken rule: You always dress the dumplings in unsalted butter before serving them, which brings extra richness and flavor to the final dish. Another essential component, as mentioned above, is sour cream. Other popular toppings include chopped fresh herbs like dill and parsley, caramelized or fried onions, garlic, and bacon crackling.
Varenyky is a labor of love, and a joy to make from beginning to end, especially if your friends and family are involved. Though I no longer live in Ukraine, I channel my grandmother by teaching friends how to shape dumplings. It is, I think, the most fun and delicious way to share a meal with those you love.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleFor the Filling: Line a fine-mesh strainer with 4 layers of cheesecloth and set in a large mixing bowl. Place cottage cheese on cheesecloth and fold over and cover with overhanging cheesecloth. Place a heavy weight, such as a 28-ounce can tomatoes, on top. Refrigerate until cheese is slightly crumbly and no moisture remains, at least 24 hours or up to 48 hours.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleUsing a wooden spoon or flexible spatula, press strained cottage cheese through a fine-mesh strainer set over a small bowl. In a separate small bowl, combine 300g (10 1/2 ounces) of the strained cottage cheese with egg yolk and salt. Using a flexible spatula, mix until no streaks of yolk remain. Refrigerate until chilled and firm, at least 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleFor the Dough: In a medium bowl, whisk 210g flour and salt to combine. Add butter, and use your fingers to press the butter into flour until you have a crumbly mixture and butter is fully incorporated into flour, about 1 minute. Using your fingers, make a well in the center of the mixture. Add egg, sour cream, and water, and, using a fork, mix until a shaggy dough forms. Dust a clean work surface with remaining 75g flour. Gently knead dough to gradually incorporate flour, until dough is soft, smooth, and all the flour has been incorporated, about 5 minutes. Return dough to medium bowl. Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap and rest at room temperature until dough is soft and supple, about 20 minutes.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleFor Shaping and Cooking: Once dough has rested,turn outonto a lightly floured work surface. Using a rolling pin, roll dough into a roughly 19-inch circle about 1/16-inch to 1/8-inch thick. Using a 3-inch cookie cutter (or a glass), punch out 25 rounds of dough. Cover dough with a clean kitchen towel and rest for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment, dust lightly with flour; set aside.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleTo Fill the Dumplings: Place half a tablespoon (11g) of filling in the center of each dough round. Working with one dough round at a time, fold dough over the filling to form a half-moon while distributing filling to fit within it, and firmly pinch edges to seal. Transfer the cheese dumplings to prepared baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. You should have 25 dumplings.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleTo Cook the Dumplings: In a 6-quart pot, bring 4 quarts (3.8 liters) of water to a boil. Salt boiling water with 2 tablespoons (about 3/4 ounces; 20g) kosher salt. Carefully add half of the dumplings to boiling water, gently stirring with a spatula or wooden spoon to prevent the dumplings from sticking to the bottom of the pot, and cook until dumplings float, about 2 minutes. Once floating, cook for 1 more minute to ensure the dough and filling are heated through. Using a spider skimmer, transfer the varenyky, shaking off excess water as needed, to a large bowl with 2 tablespoons (28g) butter. Gently toss to evenly coat varenyky. Repeat with remaining dumplings.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleServe cheese varenyk with a dollop of cold sour cream and chopped dill.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleSpecial EquipmentFine-mesh strainer, cheesecloth, rolling pin, 3-inch cookie cutter or glass, 2 rimmed baking sheets, 6-quart pot, spider skimmer or large slotted spoon
NotesThe fillings are easier to use cold and should be used straight out of the fridge. Do not let them warm up before using.
The recipe can easily be doubled if desired.
To prevent the dumplings from drying out as you fill and shape them, keep shaped varenyky covered with plastic wrap or a lightly damped kitchen towel so they don’t dry out.
Dressing varenyky in butter will prevent the dumplings from sticking and drying out.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe cottage cheese can be strained to 2 days in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container. The cottage cheese filling can be made up to 24 hours in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container.
Shaped, uncooked varenyky can be frozen for up to 1 month. To freeze dumplings, place shaped varenyky on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment. Wrap baking sheet tightly with plastic. When dumplings are frozen, transfer them to a zip-top bag or airtight container.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMaking a cake from scratch can be a stressful, time-consuming, and fussy affair. You might have to wait for butter to soften for hours, separate eggs so you can whip the whites into a voluminous meringue, or in the case of air-leavened cakes, cross your fingers and hope that your cake rises without the aid of chemical leaveners. This is where the hot milk cake—also known as the hot milk sponge—comes in. The tender, airy cake is almost as delicate as a chiffon cake or genoise, but with just enough heft to feel like a lighter version of a vanilla butter cake. It's a dessert that’s delicious on its own, as an accompaniment to ice cream, used as a base for an icebox cake, or layered with buttercream. Plus, it's fantastically easy to make.
Though you do need an electric mixer for hot milk cake, there’s no room temperature butter involved and no need to separate eggs. Traditionally, the cake is made by whisking whole eggs with sugar until pale and doubled in volume, drizzling in hot milk and butter, then adding the flour, baking powder, and salt. The result is an airy, tender sponge that’s delicious enough to eat on its own, but also versatile enough to be an everyday snacking cake or used to make a layered confection like the Boston cream pie.
A Brief History of Hot Milk CakeRecipes for hot milk cake date back to the early 1900s; one of earliest recipes I found was in the 1906 Home Department Cook Book published by Boylston Congregational Church in Jamaica Plain, Massachusetts. A recipe credited to one Mrs. Murray instructs readers to pour hot milk and butter into eggs whisked with sugar, flour, and baking soda. Another recipe from Amy Littlefield Handy’s 1911 book What We Cook on Cape Cod calls for scalding half a cup of milk with “a piece of butter the size of a large English walnut” and pouring it into a mixture of eggs “well beaten” with sugar.
Hot milk cake became increasingly popular through the 1900s. The cake—versatile, foolproof, and what an unnamed writer describes as “inexpensive and easy to make” in a 1948 edition of the St. Louis Star and Times—became a go-to recipe for many home cooks. An article published in The Virginian-Pilot in 1955 remarks at the surprising number of “interesting things” one can do with a hot milk sponge, noting that it “serves as basis for many a delicacy,” including Rocky Mountain cake, a dessert garnished with raisins, coconut, and pecans.
Though hot milk sponge doesn’t get quite the level of stardom as other cakes like chiffon, bakers in the know continue to appreciate hot milk cake for its ease, versatility, and tender crumb. In 2010, former Baltimore Sun food columnist Julie Rothman praised the cake. “It is extremely adaptable,” she writes, “perfectly delicious served plain or dressed up with fresh berries or just about any type of frosting or glaze you can come up with.”
Like many other bakers past and present, I turn to hot milk cake when I need a foolproof dessert that won’t let me down. I divide the batter and bake it in two or three round aluminum cake pans when I want to make an layer cake, and if I have friends coming over for coffee, I’ll bake it in a Bundt pan and serve it sliced with a dollop of whipped cream and a dusting of powdered sugar. My recipe below requires just 30 minutes of active time, making it the cake I turn to when I need dessert in a flash.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhy Hot Milk?It’s unclear why the milk in traditional hot milk cake recipes had to be hot; I suspect it’s because adding cold milk to a cake batter with warm melted butter would seize the butter. Since bakers had to melt the butter, it made sense to heat the butter and milk together. Below, I’ve shared my version of hot milk cake, which—surprise!—does not require hot milk at all. The recipe is the result of many rounds of tweaking and experimentation. Is it a hot milk cake? Technically, no. But it tastes like one and looks like one, and the resulting cake is, dare I say, even more fluffy and tender than an actual hot milk cake. Here’s how to make it.
5 Tips for Making a Tender Hot Milk CakeButter and flour your pans. To prevent your cake from sticking to the pan, I recommend greasing the pan with butter and lightly dusting the pans with flour. This creates a barrier that prevents the fat from melting directly into the cake batter, while also making it easy to turn out once it’s cooled.
Use whole eggs—and whisk them well. The cake’s airy texture comes from whipping whole eggs, which traps air bubbles that expand in the oven as the batter bakes. Though whole eggs don’t expand quite as much as egg whites, a foam made with whole eggs can still swell up to five times its volume, something Lamb noted in her genoise recipe. Plus, lecithin, a protein found in egg yolks, is a powerful emulsifying agent, and helps stabilize the foam, making it less finicky than a batter made with just egg whites. Whisking the eggs until pale, thick, and doubled in volume results in a sturdier foam that’s less likely to deflate than a batter made with poorly whipped eggs, allowing you to incorporate the flour without fear of deflating the batter.
Skip the butter and use oil instead. Trust me. I’ve been making an iteration of this cake for years; I shared the original version in my recipe for Boston cream pie, where I call for a hot mixture of half-and-half and butter. In the recipe below, I’ve opted for a mixture of milk and a neutral oil instead. Though I love the rich flavor of butter, there are a few benefits that come with using oil.
Most American butters tend to have a butterfat content of 80 to 82%, with the remaining 18 to 20% consisting of water and milk solids. Oil, on the other hand, is 100% fat. As we detailed in our gluten explainer, fats limit gluten development in doughs and batters by coating the gluten proteins glutenin and gliadin. Using oil more effectively inhibits gluten development, producing a softer, more tender cake.
Opting for oil also means there’s no need to heat up the milk and butter in the microwave or on the stovetop—all you have to do is combine milk and oil in a measuring cup and pour it into the mixture of whipping eggs and sugar.
Tap out large air bubbles. Excessively large air bubbles can result in an uneven crumb and an unstable cake that lacks a uniform structure and collapses as it cools. Gently tapping the batter-filled pans on the counter two to three times before baking helps eliminate large air bubbles and results in a more even crumb that’s less likely to cave in as it cools.
Customize it as you please. Enjoy it with a dusting of powdered sugar, frosted with buttercream or chocolate ganache, or with fresh fruit and whipped cream. And if you can’t be bothered, it’s delicious plain, too.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdjust rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350ºF (175ºC). Line the bottoms of two 9-inch cake pans with parchment paper. Grease Bundt pan with unsalted butter, then dust with cake flour, shaking out excess. (See notes.)
In a medium bowl, whisk together cake flour, baking powder, and salt; set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large measuring cup, combine milk with vegetable oil.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip eggs and granulated sugar on medium-high speed until yolks are thick and pale yellow color, and doubled in volume, about 7 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezReduce mixer speed to low, and slowly pour in milk and oil mixture. Continue to whisk until combined, about 15 seconds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWith the mixer on low speed, gradually add the dry mixture 1/4 cup at a time, until just incorporated, about 2 minutes. Using a flexible spatula, scrape down sides and bottom of the bowl to ensure there are no dry bits. (If any remain, use spatula to gently fold until incorporated.) Pour batter into prepared cake pan and gently tap cake pan on kitchen counter 2 to 3 times to eliminate any large air bubbles.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBake, rotating halfway through, until cake has risen by about 1 inch, is light golden, and springs back when gently touched, about 25 minutes. Transfer pans to a wire rack and allow cakes to cool in pan for 30 minutes.
Carefully invert cake onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Let cool completely, at least 30 minutes. (Cooled cake can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and stored at room temperature for up to 24 hours.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentBundt pan, stand mixer, flexible spatula, wire rack, parchment paper
NotesThe cake can also be baked in two 9-inch aluminum cake pans. If using two 9-inch aluminum cake pans, line the bottoms of each pan with parchment paper. Grease paper and sides of the pan with unsalted butter, then dust with cake flour, shaking out excess. When batter is prepared, divide evenly between pans (about 1 pound; 454g each). Bake, rotating halfway through, until cake has risen by about 1 inch, is light golden, and springs back when gently touched, 17 to 20 minutes. Transfer pans to a wire rack and allow cakes to cool in pans for 30 minutes.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe cake can be tightly wrapped in plastic and refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 3 months.
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowI don’t own a dishwasher. I didn’t grow up with one. (“Why should we? We’ve got two,” my parents would say, pointing at my sister and me.) All this to say: I have hand-washed a lot of dishes in my life.
I have strong opinions about the best dish racks, so you’d think I’d have feelings about dishwashing gloves. The truth is, despite wearing them every time I sudsed up, I never thought much about them. But that doesn’t mean they’re all the same. I had a hunch that quality would be sneakily varied across dish glove brands, so in the name of science and manicures, I tested a dozen of them. I was right: There were some duds, a lot of middle-of-the-roaders, and two outstanding pairs.
The Best Dishwashing Gloves, at a GlanceMany of the gloves I tested were lined with cotton, which made my hands feel sweaty. The Playtex Fresh Comfort Gloves broke the mold with a moisture-wicking foam lining that was smooth and cooling. They were inexpensive and deeply textured for optimal grip. Dishwashing glove perfection!
I tested three pairs of long-sleeved dishwashing gloves, and these took the cake. They were incredibly grippy, never allowed water in, and slid on and off smoothly. They’re pricier than my top pick, but I couldn’t puncture these if I tried (and I did try).
The TestsWe tested dish gloves by using them to wash dishes (duh!) and examining their durability and comfort.Serious Eats / Rochelle Bilow Splash and Suds Test: To assess the gloves’ performance and design, I filled a dish tub with hot, soapy water and added a variety of dishes, including a dinner plate, a soup bowl, a drinking glass, and some flatware. Wearing a pair of gloves, I washed and rinsed each piece before setting it on a drying rack. * Wine Glass Test: To test the gloves’ grip, I washed and rinsed stemmed wine glasses, noting if any felt perilously slippery in my gloved hands. * Puncture Test: To see if the gloves would puncture or tear, I removed the gloves and held one taut before poking it with the tip of a steak knife. Then, I set the glove on a cutting board and ran the knife over the material. * General Use Test (Winners Only):* Once I had narrowed the field, I used each pair of gloves for all my dishwashing duties—at least three times a day—to evaluate their durability, comfort, and overall usability.
What We LearnedAll of the Dishwashing Gloves Were Very DurableNo matter how you stack it, all of the gloves were durable.Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowEach pair of gloves made it through my puncture test unscathed. Short of running your gloves through a paper shredder (please don’t do that), it’d be hard to destroy any of the pairs I tested. So with the “durability” factor covered, we can now get down to the nitty-gritty of what makes a pair of dishwashing gloves great.
Cotton-Lined Gloves Were Comfortable… at FirstSome of the gloves I tested had super soft linings that felt similar to velour.Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowCotton is breathable. Therefore, cotton-lined dishwashing gloves must be ideal for comfy, cool dishwashing sessions, right? Not so fast. In my tests, I found that the cotton-lined gloves like the Alimat PluS and Mr. Clean Bliss Gloves felt amazing when I slipped them on. But after a few minutes, my hands got sweaty and sticky. The cotton idea is great in theory, but because it’s surrounded by rubber, it gets swampy inside the gloves quickly. (If you’ve ever exercised in a cotton T-shirt in hot weather, you know the feeling I’m talking about.) The Playtex Fresh Comfort Gloves were a revelation after rounds of hot hands because they’re lined with moisture-wicking foam. They’re just as comfortable, but much cooler when worn for extended periods.
Cuffs Weren’t Always HelpfulCuffs help keep your arms dry—but some gloves aren't long enough to get the job done.Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowSome of the gloves I tested had cuffs that are meant to act as an additional barrier against splashes and drips. But they didn’t successfully keep out water, and in most cases, were too short. The Casabella Waterblock Premium Dishwashing Gloves got around that issue with an extra-long sleeve; they were designed to be kept upright or turned down. Unfortunately, the material flopped annoyingly around when cuffed, and I typically kept them unrolled when wearing. Material mattered, too: The cotton cuffs of the Grove Collaborative Cleaning Gloves were constantly waterlogged.
Textured Palms and Fingers Were CrucialDeep grooves and textured gloves are ideal for slippery dishes.Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowEvery pair of gloves I tested was textured to some degree. But lightly raised patterns didn’t do much to keep slippery glassware in hand. My favorite gloves, like the Mamison, were deeply grooved. That meant I could hold, turn, and rinse the sudsiest wine glasses without fear of breakage by way of an oopsie. Most gloves had textured finger pads and tips, and once I used those I couldn’t go back to the non-textured ones.
Don’t Overthink It: They’re Just Dishwashing GlovesThe Hold Everything gloves were too bulky to handle delicate glassware.Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowAs I learned, there are quantifiable factors that make a high-quality pair of gloves. But some I tested were trying way too hard. The Hold Everything Kitchen Gloves were inexplicably pricey, and the material was so thick that I could barely move my fingers. They’re machine-washable, but most cooks simply replace old dishwashing gloves with a new pair. Every brand I tested used complicated-sounding designs like “embossed palms” and “advanced flocking technology.” But it’s not worth paying more for fancy features when all our winners are members of the just-the-basics club.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Pair of Dishwashing GlovesSerious Eats / Rochelle BilowThe best dishwashing gloves were either unlined or lined with moisture-wicking foam. Extra-long sleeves worked well for big jobs. Textured patterns on the palms and fingers were essential for creating a confident grip. Finally, don’t shell out too much cash: They’re just dishwashing gloves, after all.
Our Favorite Dishwashing GlovesWhat we liked: The name is accurate: These gloves were quite comfortable. The foam lining was cushy without being too thick, and it kept my hands less sticky and sweaty than the cotton-lined gloves. The textured pattern was very grippy, and I liked that it continued over the top of each finger for extra insurance. Although I didn’t officially heat-test the gloves, this pair kept my hands protected, even with my apartment building’s exuberant water heater.
What we didn’t like: Frankly, not much. They arrived wrinkled, but it's not like you're wearing them for a night on the town (are you?).
Key Specs Material: Latex exterior, foam lining * Weight: 2.7 ounces * Length for size M: 11.5 inches * Sizes available:* Small, medium, large
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowWhat we liked: Go ahead, try and get your arms wet in these gloves—it’s nearly impossible. At 14 inches from the sleeve to the tip of the middle finger, the Mamison gloves were the longest I tested. The sleeves blouse then pucker at the top, acting as an extra barrier to water. They were also the most deeply textured gloves I tested (a feature that I, an accident-prone butterfingers, appreciated). They’re unlined, but the material is thin so they don’t feel constricting or hot. They’re brightly colored and add a bit of cheer to my boringly white kitchen.
What we didn’t like: It would be hard to wear these over a big sweater.
Key Specs Material: Unlined latex * Weight: 3.6 ounces * Length for size M: 14 inches * Sizes available:* Medium, large
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowAlso Recommended* Mr. Clean Latex Gloves: I liked that this pair came in a two-pack, but the fingers were loose, which caused me to lose my grip on wet, slippery dishes. And I just couldn’t get on the cotton liner train. * Mr. Clean Latex Free Bliss Premium Gloves: This pair of cotton-lined gloves was fine. I preferred unlined or foam-lined gloves that kept my hands cool, but these were comfy for shorter periods. * Wahoo Latex Free Dishwashing Gloves: I’m pretty sure these were modeled after Mr. Clean’s gloves—the Wahoo is even bordered with the same row of flowers around the top of the sleeve. The Mr. Clean gloves were slightly more comfortable. * Alimat 3-Pack Latex Free Dishwashing Gloves: The Wahoo and Alimat gloves were so similar, I wondered if they were made by the same manufacturer. * Casabella Waterblock Premium Dishwashing Gloves: A close contender with the Mamison gloves, these featured a flared sleeve (instead of a tapered one). It was a clever idea in theory, and while it kept my arms dry it did invite water to ricochet off the flare at times. * If You Care Household Gloves: I wanted to snark on the passive-aggressive name of these pricey, Fair Trade gloves, but darn it if they weren’t great. They did everything I asked them to and even came in an earthy, virtue-signaling green. If you don’t mind spending a little more (and if you care), these are a good option.
Not Recommended* Playtex Living Reusable Rubber Cleaning Gloves: These were just like the Mamisan gloves but with overly blousy sleeves. * Grove Collaborative Cleaning Gloves: I liked the hanging loops, but at 11.5 inches, these were among the shortest of the bunch. The cotton cuffs were always wet. * Hold Everything Kitchen Gloves: These gloves were expensive, enormous, and had the texture of sandpaper. Save them for your woodworking shop. * JoyEco Cleaning Gloves: If you click the link to check these out, be aware the pair I was sent looked nothing like that. My pair was transparent, flimsy, and barely textured. They were less resistant to very hot water than most others I tested.
FAQsWhat are dishwashing gloves made of?Most of the gloves I tested were made from latex, although some were blended with vinyl or nitrile (all forms of rubber). Those with latex allergies should look for gloves like the Mr. Clean Bliss Gloves, which are made from nitrile butadiene rubber. Gloves may be unlined or lined. The liners I tested were either cotton or foam.
Are dishwashing gloves reusable?Yes! Unlike disposable latex gloves, dishwashing gloves are made to be reused.
How do you dry dishwashing gloves?Provided no water has snuck inside the gloves, their exterior should dry quickly. Drape them over a faucet or dish-drying rack, and they’ll be ready to go for your next dishwashing session. If the insides get wet, place them upright over a long utensil (like a spatula or narrow wooden spoon) so air can circulate and dry them out.
Why We’re the Experts* Rochelle Bilow is a commerce editor for Serious Eats. * She has been writing about food professionally for over a decade, and testing kitchen equipment for over two years. Previously, she was a contributing freelance writer at Serious Eats. * Rochelle has saved every pair of dishwashing gloves she tested, and cycles through them every few days "for fun."
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAside from my little micro-climate pocket of perpetually foggy San Francisco, August is blazing sunshine, sweaty days, and warm nights everywhere. This calls for quick, simple meals that allow you time to just chill out, preferably in the shade with an icy cold drink in hand. The abundance of fresh, peak seasonal produce like corn, tomatoes, green beans, zucchini, berries, stone fruit, and watermelon makes it virtually effortless to whip up meals and desserts jam-packed with flavors and textures. We've rounded up our the best summer recipes that take full advantage of everything the season has to offer, from cool one-bowl wonders, like our spicy Korean noodles and Italian-American pasta salad, to smoke-kissed grilled chicken Caesar and grilled whole fish tacos, and even updated retro icebox cakes. Kick back with one of these summer recipes that are guaranteed to keep those relaxing vibes going long past Labor Day.
Quick and Easy Bibim GuksuSerious Eats / Matt HunzikerThese cold, spicy Korean noodles were made for slurping on a blazing hot day. Bouncy chilled somyeon noodles coated in a sweet, slightly tangy gochujang-based sauce are mixed with crunchy cucumber, juicy Asian pear, and aromatic perilla leaves. Hard-boiled egg provides substance and richness, while crushed sesame seeds add extra nuttiness.
The Ultimate Grilled Chicken Caesar SaladSerious Eats / Kevin WhiteWhen we say "grilled chicken Caesar salad" we don't mean for you to simply grill up some chicken breast and call it a day. To make this the "ultimate" version, we give the chicken breast, romaine, and lemon the grill treatment so the salad is properly infused with smoky char flavor. We even swapped out regular croutons for a sliced baguette, while keeping the Caesar dressing classic.
Skirt Steak With Warm Spicy Corn-and-Peach SalsaSerious Eats / Yasmin FahrThis wonderfully pan-charred skirt steak is ideal for those not blessed with an outdoor space to grill. The combination of charred sweet summer corn and peaches at their peak tempers some of the heat from the jalapeño and cayenne pepper.
Air-Fryer Southern Fried ChickenSerious Eats / Jen CauseyWhen you're craving some crispy Southern fried chicken but it's too dang hot to stand in front of vat of oil, the air fryer and this recipe can be your new best friends. We brine the chicken in buttermilk and pickle juice, then dredge it in a well-seasoned combination of wheat and rice flours (with a bit of baking powder) to produce an ultra flavorful, juicy, crispy air "fried" chicken supper that's quick—leaving you plenty of time to kick back with a cold beer and enjoy.
Chacarero Chileno (Chilean Steak and Green Bean Sandwiches)Serious Eats / Estudio ComoChacarero chileno is usually reserved for peak green bean season and is as much a showcase for the beef as it is for fresh summer produce. The meat is brushed with flavored mayo before grilling on high heat to keep it tender and juicy. The smoky charred beef is then topped with slices of ripe tomato and a pile of vibrant tender-cooked green beans, all sandwiched inside a grilled roll.
Whole Grilled Fish TacosSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltWhile I do love a fried fish taco, there's just something more relaxed and rustic about grilled whole fish tacos. For one thing, keeping it whole yields a juicier fish and greatly reduces the risk of it sticking on the grill, with the skin and bones acting as heat buffers. Seasoning the fish inside and out and stuffing it with aromatics also infuses it with lots of flavor. All you have to do is lay out the fixings and let everyone break off chunks of the fork-tender meat themselves.
Summer Corn, Chicken, and Cheese NachosSerious Eats / Emily and Matt CliftonThese nachos celebrate what we love about summer: grilling, barbecue, casual entertaining, and peak seasonal produce. We've replaced the traditional beans with the bright summer flavors of grilled corn, along with juicy tomatoes, diced onion, sliced jalapeños, and pickled radishes. Shredded chicken gets a coating of bourbon-spiked barbecue sauce to keep it moist and flavorful. There's also cheese in two forms: a silky-smooth cheese sauce and shredded Monterey Jack for the gooey pull.
Italian-American Pasta SaladSerious Eats / Greg DupreeWhat do you get when you toss together pasta and antipasti? A hearty, satisfying salad that's perfect for a picnic or enjoying on the balcony with a glass of wine on a warm night. Hand-torn fresh mozzarella, ripe cherry tomatoes, briny capers and olives, good salami, and perfectly cooked pasta are key—served at room temperature, of course.
Kimbap (Korean Seaweed Rice Rolls)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikKimbap is having its moment—popping up everywhere from fast casual Asian restaurants to Costco and Trader Joe's. They're the perfect light snack—or in my case, light summertime supper—that's extremely versatile. You can roll up a variety of chilled ingredients such as cucumber, crab sticks, shrimp, peppers, julienned carrots, and pickled radish.
Tomato-Watermelon SaladSerious Eats / Jen CauseyAttention to detail is what makes this ultimate pairing of two summertime superstars work. We use three types of tomatoes, seasoning them differently and letting them sit to draw out excess moisture, which practically allows the the dressing to "make itself." To maintain watermelon's crisp texture, it gets added to the tomatoes just before serving. We sprinkle on feta and mint last so their flavors don't become muddle by the dressing.
Seriously Crunchy Zucchini Fries With Herby Feta DipSerious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeDuring peak season, it's stall-to-stall zucchini at the farmers' market. I invariably end up buying more than I know what to do with—there's only so much zucchini bread I can bake. Enter these baked zucchini "fries," dredged in a Parmesan-laced panko coating and baked until crisp and golden outside—making them all too easy to dunk in herby feta dip and consume by the plateful. Problem solved!
Chilled Beet and Cherry Summer SoupSerious Eats / Hannah HufhamHere, fresh cherries, both pureed and left whole, add pops of sweetness that perfectly balance the earthiness of fresh beets. The gorgeously vibrant chilled soup also has a bit a richness and tang from sour cream (or yogurt) that's carefully tempered into the hot soup base to prevent curdling.
Watermelon Gazpacho With Calabrian-Chile CremaSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis refreshing take on the chilled Spanish classic combines summer garden staples—watermelon and tomato, both at their peak of flavor. Toasted almonds (not bread) give this soup its body, lending a nutty flavor and creamy texture. Crema and Calabrian chiles bring tang and heat to balance the sweetness of the watermelon. And, of course, a drizzle of really good extra-virgin olive oil completes the soup.
Strawberry Icebox CakeSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezI may have baking in my blood, but even I can't resist a fantastic no-bake dessert—especially one as incredibly easy and stunningly beautiful as this strawberry icebox cake that practically screams summer. All you need is a loaf pan and the patience to let your "cake" chill out for at least six hours in the fridge to allow the vanilla wafer cookies time to absorb moisture from the cream and quick-cooked fresh strawberry compote and soften to the ideal texture. Trust us, the payoff is spectacular.
S'mores Icebox CakeSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezAs I pastry chef, I've created many fancified variations of the campfire classic, but none were as effortlessly eye-catching as this icebox s'mores cake. No homemade graham cracker cookies or mile-high marshmallows necessary—just store-bought graham crackers brushed with coffee, layered with chocolate mousse, set in a loaf pan to chill for six hours, then frosted with Italian meringue and toasted with a kitchen torch. Easy-peasy.
Bolis de Jamaica (Mexican Hibiscus Ice Pops)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNo popsicle molds or popsicle sticks? No problem. These refreshing Mexican hibiscus ice pops are frozen in little plastic bags, making them much more portable. Simply place the bag upright in a cup and fold over the top to keep it open, then slowly pour in the sweet tangy boli mixture, tie it up, and freeze until solid. To enjoy, cut or bite off a corner of the frozen bag, then mush it with your hands to turn it into a slurpable slush (watch out for brain freeze though!).
Blueberry Cornbread CobblerSerious Eats/Jen CauseyBlueberry cobbler is the quintessential summer bake, and one of the easiest desserts to make. There's no fruit to peel, pit, or cut up. All that's required is a bit of cornstarch to thicken up the juices and a touch of cinnamon to amplify the natural blueberry flavor. Pairing it with a lemony cornbread topping gives the cobbler earthiness and texture.
Mazagran Coffee (Iced Coffee Lemonade)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezStep aside Arnold Palmer—there's a new lemony cooler in town, and it's made with coffee. The combination of cold, strongly brewed coffee (or coffee concentrate), freshly squeezed lemon juice, and sugar (or simple syrup) makes for such a bright and refreshing alternative to iced coffee that you'll be kicking those flavored iced lattes to the curb.
The Upgraded PalomaSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThe Paloma is my summertime go-to cocktail, and I think this upgraded version is well worth the extra effort. Homemade grapefruit cordial is mixed with blanco tequila, lime juice, and Campari, then topped off with bubbly seltzer. Now that's a Paloma I can sip on all day.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeBreakfast bars are great for a meal on the run or an afternoon nibble, but while it’s tempting to reach for a store-bought bar, they’re often too sweet, aggressively spiced, and either so chewy they stick to the roof of your mouth, or dangerously hard with jagged edges that cut into your tongue. To avoid this, we encourage you to take the (mostly hands-off) time to make your own at home with our easy recipe for homemade breakfast bars that are lightly sweet, full of flavor, and have just the right texture.
Our perfect bar is hearty with a crunchy exterior that gives way to a softer, chewier center. It’s well seasoned, with just a touch of caramelized sweetness and a kaleidoscope of dried fruits, toasted oats, and crunchy seeds, plus it requires little more than tossing everything together, pressing into the pan, and refrigerating until firm. To get to this great result, we asked our test kitchen colleague Renu Dhar to methodically make batch after batch of seed-filled bars to come up with wholesome and satisfying breakfast bars.
Tips for Homemade Breakfast barsToast the oats. We found that toasting the oats with a little oil, brown sugar, and honey before mixing them with the other ingredients really deepened the bar’s final flavor. The oil, brown sugar, and honey lightly caramelize the exterior of the oats to create a rich butterscotch flavor. It requires just 30 minutes of hands-off baking and cooling time, which can be done while you are preparing the other ingredients.
Use a blend of sweeteners. To give the bars a nuanced, light sweetness without overpowering the earthy seeds, the bars are sweetened with a combination of brown sugar, honey, and finely chopped dates. The sticky honey and dates not only provide sweetness, but also help the bars hold together. A swirl of your preferred sweet fruit preserves folded into the oat mixture before pressing it into the pan further sweetens the bars and adds another flavor dimension. We love them with cherry preserves, but raspberry, strawberry, or blueberry all work wonderfully.
Add a variety of seeds. Chia seeds, hemp seeds, and sunflower kernels boast various health benefits, but but they also bring a variety of crunchy textures and savory nutty flavors to the party
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeBind it all together with nut or seed butter. . A creamy nut or seed butter of your choice not only gives you a chance to further customize these bars with your preferred flavor profile, it’s also the key sticky ingredient for binding the ingredients together. Feel free to use peanut butter, almond butter, cashew butter, or sunflower butter—the latter is a great choice if you need to avoid tree nuts or peanuts because of allergies.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 325°F(160℃). Coat an 8-inch square baking pan with cooking spray; line bottom and sides with parchment paper, leaving a 2-inch overhang on all sides. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Set both aside.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeIn a medium bowl, stir oats, brown sugar, oil, and 2 tablespoons of the honey until well combined. Spread oat mixture evenly onto the parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake, stirring every 5 minutes and returning to an even layer, until golden brown and crisp, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely on a wire rack, about 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeWhile oats are cooling, in a food processor, process dates and seed or nut butter until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes, scraping down sides of processor bowl as needed.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeIn a large bowl, stir together the cooled oats, sunflower butter mixture, dried fruit, chia seeds, hemp seeds, sunflower kernels, fruit preserves, salt, and remaining 1 tablespoon honey until well combined and the mixture holds together, 1 to 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeSpread oat mixture firmly into the bottom of prepared baking pan, using bottom of a greased measuring cup to press into a flat even layer. Press plastic wrap directly onto surface of oats mixture; wrap baking pan in additional plastic wrap, and refrigerate until cold and firm, at least 8 hours or up to 3 days.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeRemove and discard plastic. Using parchment overhang as handles, remove bars; place on a cutting board. Cut bars into 1 1/4- x 4-inch squares. Serve or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 3 weeks.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeSpecial Equipment8-inch square baking pan
Make-Ahead and StorageRefrigerate portioned bars in an airtight container for up to 3 weeks.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyTell you what, the older I get, the more I feel like Hank Hill from the TV show King of the Hill: living in the ‘burbs and inordinately excited about propane grilling. I recently got a Weber gas grill and have been using it daily, rain be darned. And while I love its wide cooktop, easy-ignite burners, and spacious side tables, a few things slip through the cracks—literally. I’ve lost chunks of charred zucchini and bits of bell pepper and had quite the flare-up when a bunch of corn silk fell through the grates. As Hank Hill would say: “Bwahhhh!”
Thankfully, people have been using grills longer than I’ve been living, and the commitment to propane and charcoal cookery has inspired many innovative grill gadgets. Here, I’m focusing on the grill basket. It can expand your grilling repertoire with nary a cherry tomato or slice of summer squash lost to the flames. But what makes a good one? I fired up the grill and tested eight of them to find out.
The Winners, at a GlanceThis carbon steel basket has large holes (though they’re still small enough to keep food contained) that let hot, smoky air through. The detachable handle let me set it on the grill and close the lid, capturing heat and cooking foods more efficiently.
I liked the removable handle on this basket even though it took some grip strength to maneuver it on and off. The basket’s also nice and wide, and it comes with dividers should you want to cook protein at the same time as veggies.
This no-frills lightweight basket is made of crosshatched mesh propped up by sturdy wires. It exposed the food inside directly to the heat and smoke from the grill, making it an excellent option for the charcoal-inclined. It’s also quite spacious, so if you wanted to grill a whole lotta asparagus, you could do it in one go.
I was skeptical of the slat-style holes in this basket: Would they let enough heat through to char vegetables? But my fears were unfounded and as long as the basket wasn’t overloaded, chopped zucchini and summer squash emerged blistered and beautiful. The curved metal handles were easy to grip even while wearing grill mitts. I recommend getting the larger basket, as the smaller one gets easily crowded.
The TestsWe tested grill baskets by cooking a variety of foods in them, including chopped squash and zucchini.Serious Eats / Grace Kelly Grilled Vegetables Test: I grilled diced zucchini and summer squash in the grill baskets on a gas grill. This test examined how well the baskets charred the vegetables, and how easy they were to maneuver on and off the grill using grill gloves. * Grilled Seafood Test: I grilled small black bass in the clamp-style grill baskets over a gas grill, and grilled shrimp and scallops in the pan-style baskets. * Cleaning and Use Tests:* Throughout testing, I noted if the grill baskets were easy to maneuver and if they cleaned up with minimal effort.
What We LearnedWhat’s a Grill Basket?Grill baskets have gaps or holes so air and heat (and in the case of charcoal, smoky flavor) can reach what’s inside without losing food to the flames. This makes them ideal for cooking chopped vegetables or smaller pieces of protein, like scallops or shrimp. They come in three styles: a piece of metal with perforated holes called a pan grill basket, a wire mesh basket, or a metal wire basket with a clamping lid that kinda looks like a flattened lobster trap. Some grill baskets are nonstick, but we generally don’t recommend using nonstick over high heat. Instead, just wipe down the basket with oil first (or toss whatever you’re cooking with some oil) and that’ll do the trick.
Clamping Grill Baskets Were No GoodClamping grill baskets were flimsy and often lost food to the flames.Serious Eats / Grace KellyI started my testing with visions of leisurely flipping over a clamped grill basket with a whole fish inside, revealing crispy skin tinged with char. But the reality of using this style of basket was hot, sweaty, and entirely un-idyllic.
The fish-shaped Grill Mark Black & Silver Steel Fish Basket was the worst of the three clamping grill baskets I tried. The sides were loosely attached by a wound wire and flopped all over. Wrangling a small black bass inside was difficult: The fish squelched, slipped, and slid as I tried to close the basket over it. Not to mention the handle melted halfway through cooking. When the fish was finally done (and my nerves were frayed), I tried to open the basket only to find that the fish had stuck to both sides. Suffice it to say, dinner that night was a black bass that looked like a coyote had gotten into it. Cleaning the basket was another herculean task, and I had to let it soak for a few hours before attempting to scrub the sticky skin away. Overall, using this thing took far more sweat, scales, and patience than I had to give.
The fish grill basket was one of the worst we tested; it's handle melted, and the fish stuck to the wires.Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Char-Broil clamping basket seemed more promising—no handle, no chance of melted plastic—but it too faltered in the heat of battle. The clasps were difficult to undo while wearing grill gloves and the nonstick coating made the basket slippery; I dropped it a few times while trying to get a good grip. This also meant it was nearly impossible to open it and flip whatever was inside. Instead, I had to grip it hard and give it a shake—not ideal.
The moral of my tirade is that none of the clamping baskets I tested hit the mark. Instead, they resulted in mangled food, singed fingers, and melted plastic.
Removable Handles Were a BoonEasily detachable handles let us close the lid of the grill.Serious Eats / Grace KellyAs I mentioned, handles were often the bane of my tests—they either melted or stuck out and prevented me from closing the grill lid. So when I finally tested the two grill pans with removable handles, the OXO and Proud Grill, I was delighted.
The OXO was particularly easy to use even with my hand swimming in a grill mitt (I have small paws). Just push the tab, lift, and the handle pops off. Go in reverse to reattach it.
The Proud Grill handle was trickier to remove and attach. I had to give it a sturdy squeeze while trying to maintain pressure as I wiggled the metal prongs out of the holes. It took more effort, but once I got in the swing of it, it wasn’t too terrible a task.
Pan Grill Baskets Were the Easiest to UseNo-frills pan grill baskets were versatile and easy to use. They let us flip food with tongs and charred items nicely.Serious Eats / Grace KellyPan grill baskets are super simple: They’re just rectangular, square, or round open-top pans with holes or slots to let heat through. There are no clasps to fiddle with and, since they’re uncovered, I could easily reach in with a pair of grill tongs and flip chopped veggies or shrimp. The only downside with pan-style grill baskets is they don’t get as much contact with the grill as a wire basket. Sure, you’ll get some char, and a smokier flavor if you’re using charcoal, but not quite as much as if it were made of crosshatched wire. However, these baskets are still fantastic for cooking chopped vegetables, shrimp, or even whole clams. Look for a grill basket with bigger holes and a large surface area, like the one from OXO, so you get maximum grill surface contact and less chance of food steaming.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Grill Basket Serious Eats / Grace KellyI preferred non-lidded baskets since many of the clamping ones were difficult to turn and open. Pan-style grill baskets were the easiest to use since I could reach inside with tongs to flip or turn foods. Look for larger grill baskets, as they allow food to spread out and prevent it from steaming. I recommend finding a grill basket with larger holes because they allow more contact with the grill grates and result in better charring. I also liked removable handles, which made it easy to shut the lid and get grilling.
Our Favorite Grill Baskets What we liked: This skillet’s removable handle was SO nice: It detached with a click and I was on my way. I could take it off and close the lid, or slip it back on to give ingredients a shake and a toss—real chef-like. The carbon steel surface heated up quickly, and the numerous holes allowed smoky flavor through, nicely charring vegetables and shrimp.
What we didn’t like: It was heavier than other baskets I tested at a little over three pounds. The factory seasoning on the skillet emitted a plasticky smell when I first used it.
Key Specs Materials: Carbon steel * Dimensions: 12 x 2.5 inches * Handle length: 8.5 inches * Weight:* 3 pounds, 1.2 ounces
The OXO grill basket featured a detachable handle and numerous holes for great charring.Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: This grill basket heated up quickly and charred bits of zucchini and squash while still letting them cook down and get silky. The removable handle was a great touch; it allowed me to easily pop it off and close the grill lid. The pan also comes with two removable dividers so I could cook protein alongside produce. Talk about a one-pan meal!
What we didn’t like: While the detachable handle was a nice feature, it was tough to remove and reattach—it required good grip strength to squeeze the prongs together. The handle’s also quite wide, which made moving the basket feel unwieldy. If you’re cooking, say, chicken or fish, it’s best to oil the surface and let it heat up so the protein doesn’t stick. The whole thing is a bit jangly.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel * Dimensions: 14.75 x 10.25 x 2.5 inches * Handle length: 10.25 inches * Weight:* 2 pounds, 10.3 ounces
This wide basket came with dividers and a removable handle.Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: This stainless steel mesh grill basket lets heat and smoke through while keeping smaller foods safe from the flames. It’s also quite spacious—I could spread out chunks of zucchini and leave ample room around each piece of shrimp. Everything emerged nicely charred. The wide looped handles were easy to grip, even with a bulky oven mitt, and it’s fairly lightweight at a little over one pound.
What we didn’t like: Criss-cross mesh is a pain to clean. I had to let the basket soak before scrubbing and even then remnants of grilled zucchini still hung on for dear life. It’s a larger basket, too, so it might not fit on a small grill.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel * Dimensions: 15 x 11 x 3 inches * Handle length: N/A * Weight:* 1 pound, 11.3 ounces
The Outset was spacious and let foods get a good char thanks to its wire mesh composition.Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: This simple, lightweight basket was just plain great. The slatted cutouts let heat and flame through, resulting in blackened zucchini and squash, and the curved handles were easy to grip. It’s great for cooking smaller pieces of food or thin vegetables, like green beans, since nothing can slip through the cracks.
What we didn’t like: I tested the 7-inch basket, which was a tad too small and increased the likelihood of crowding and steaming. I recommend buying the larger size, which is 13.8 by 12 inches.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel * Dimensions: 6 x 7.5 x 2.25 inches * Handle length: N/A * Weight:* 14.8 ounces
Small and sturdy, this grill basket kept foods contained and was easy to handle.Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Competition* Lodge 12" Cast Iron Dual Handle Grill Basket: This basket performed well, but the holes were rather small and since it’s made of cast iron, it’s quite heavy. * AIZOAM Grill Basket: The locking clasp looked nothing like the image on Amazon, though it was easy to open and close. While it let vegetables inside get nicely charred, the gaps were too large and I lost a few slices of squash to the flames. * Char-Broil Non-Stick Grill Basket: This nonstick basket was slippery and difficult to unlatch, especially when wearing a grill glove or oven mitt. * Grill Mark Black & Silver Steel Fish Basket: The two sides were loosely attached and flopped all around, which was a burn risk after it’d been on the grill. The fish stuck to the basket, and the handle melted.
FAQsSerious Eats / Grace KellyAre grilling baskets worth it?If you like to grill vegetables, fish, or other foods prone to breaking apart and falling through the grates, then yes, a grill basket is worth it. They keep food contained while still letting it rest atop the grill and get nicely charred and smoky.
What should I look for in a grill basket?A grill basket should securely hold pieces of food, be easy to use and handle, and allow whatever’s inside to get nicely charred and browned. If it has a handle, it’s best if it’s detachable.
What can I use instead of a grill basket?You could use a heat-safe baking rack, though the edges are exposed, which means food could fall off the sides.
Which style of grill basket should I buy?Pan-style grill baskets were the most versatile and easiest to use. They have small (but not too small) perforations, making them great for grilling petite items like chopped peppers and onions, or chunks of potato or zucchini. To ensure proper char distribution, give ‘em a good shake (while wearing a grill glove or using a kitchen towel to keep your hands safe).
Why We’re the Experts* Grace Kelly is a commerce editor at Serious Eats, where she’s been testing gear for over two years. * She’s an avid griller and loves using a grill basket to char food. * For this review, Grace tested eight grill baskets. She used them to cook diced zucchini and summer squash, as well as black bass, shrimp, and scallops. * We’ve extensively reviewed grilling gear, including tongs, charcoal chimney starters, and grill brushes.
Getty Images / Nancy Rose, DrbouzWhile fruit flies don’t cause the itch that mosquitoes do, and they may not be as annoying as houseflies, when you’ve got them in your home and buzzing in your face, there’ll be no convincing you that they aren’t the personal emissaries of Satan.
But you don’t have to lose apples and bananas to your unwanted house guests much longer. With the help of two experts—an entomologist and a veteran restaurant director of operations—we’ll explain what exactly fruit flies are, how to prevent them, and how to get rid of them once they’ve invaded.
“They’re always here,” says Molly Keck, an entomologist with the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service and a specialist in the Texas Integrated Pest Management program. “It’s not your fault that you got them in the first place, but it is your fault if you keep them around.”
What Is a Fruit Fly?The flying insects making up the current plague in your home may not technically be fruit flies—the name most commonly applied to Drosophila melanogaster, a typically red-eyed pest that grows to about three millimeters long as an adult (about the width of a grain of rice). “It’s a common name people attribute to many small flies,” says Keck. ”There’s red-eyed fruit flies, black-eyed fruit flies, fungus gnats, drain flies—a lot of small flies you might find.” As their names indicate, things like fungus gnats and drain flies may look like fruit flies, but they are technically different beasts with their own preferred breeding and feeding grounds.
The good news is that, generally speaking, the methods for preventing and treating all these malevolent midges are pretty much the same, even if you’re not sure of the exact type that’s infested your home.
How Do Fruit Flies Get In Your Home?Fruit flies get into your home by…flying in. No, seriously.
“More often than not, they’re coming in from the outside,” says Dan Dilworth, a restaurant operations director and alumnus of Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group who’s opened several dozen restaurants, from fine dining to fast-casual. “A lot come in through loading docks. Like a giant garage door, they will seek out anything not cleaned recently, anything sugary…They tend to gravitate toward floor drains that accumulate gunk and yummy things for fruit flies.”
Keck says that in residences, fruit flies often get sucked in through open exterior doors or windows, though they’re not small enough to squeeze through a typical screen. They’re often found outside of houses feeding on decaying vegetation—like grass clippings or dead plants—that appears after a big freeze or some weather-related incident, before making their way inside when you unwittingly invite them in.
Fruit flies can also enter your home before they even hatch—via eggs attached to the outside of fruit you buy at the store—but there’s not much you can do about that unless you’re willing to inspect every square micrometer of your fruit under a microscope every time you come back from the market.
“You’re not going to be able to see them,” says Keck. “They’re probably the size of a grain of salt or something like that.”
How Do You Prevent Fruit Flies?Fruit flies are the symptom of an issue—not the actual issue itself. And the issue in question can range from basic cleanliness and sanitation to simply bad luck.
“If you see a lot of fruit flies [in someone’s kitchen], it’d make me look closer at the other practices the person is doing,” says Dilworth. “It’s one of those tells when the health inspector walks in and sees fruit flies. It’s an indication, especially if there’s not ripening fruit out, [that] you’re not cleaning drains and wiping down food surfaces.”
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikFruit flies look for food, which mostly means sugar. Rotting or fermenting fruit or vegetable matter acts like a beacon telling the flies that sugar’s available—and so does any nasty sludge that accumulates around sinks, drains, toilets, tubs, showers, and under cracked tiles. Some small flies we think of as fruit flies, like fungus gnats, are attracted to and lay eggs in the fungus found in the soil of potted plants.
“For any fly, it’s about the source: control the source, [find] the source, reduce the source, get additional sources out of the environment,” says Keck. “They’re there to lay their eggs in the source. If that’s gone, they’ll go away as well.”
Here’s where the type of flies you have can play a small role in determining your strategy.
“The ultimate way to get rid of them is to get rid of the food source,” says Keck. “The fungus gnat may be in plants, drain flies will be in the gunk around the drains," she adds, so identification makes it easier to narrow down what type of fruit flies you may have.
If you find that you have fruit flies or other similar pests, you should be regularly cleaning drains and sanitizing them, says Dilworth. “Continuously wipe down surfaces and sanitize them regularly. Keep aromatic fruits and vegetables out of the open, or keep them really well sealed off or in a refrigerator. [Fruit flies] love bananas and tomatoes, but any fruit you leave out to ripen at room temperature will attract them. If it’s hot and there’s sticky fruit out, they will come.” If you’re composting, you’ll want to remove your food scraps and composting bags as soon as you can.
“Move compost bins away from doors and windows,” says Keck. “Take the trash out regularly. And if you are recycling, or even not, and you have Coke cans, beer cans, wine bottles, rinse them out before you put them out—that little hit of fluid at the bottom is a lot for those guys to sustain themselves on.”
For fruits and vegetables that shouldn’t go in the fridge, like bananas and tomatoes, place them in brown paper bags and tightly seal them with a clip. If you’ve got fungus gnats, eliminate the contaminated soil and repot the plant.
In addition, Keck says it also helps to keep the outside of your house well maintained, since that’s where most of the fruit flies will be coming from. Remove dead vegetation, grass clippings, and any nasty slime and gunk that accumulates around dead plants, which are basically like an all-you-can-eat fruit-fly buffet. But understand that if you have a fruit fly problem one spring, you’re likely to have the same issue next spring because of the cycle of weather and the vegetation in your yard, she says.
And, finally, keep your doors and screens closed and sealed tightly as much as possible.
How Do You Get Rid of Fruit Flies?If you already have fruit flies and want to get rid of them ASAP, you can try various age-old tricks. A popular one that both Keck and Dilworth recommend involves partially filling a jar with apple cider vinegar and a couple drops of dish soap, wrapping the mouth of the jar with plastic wrap, and poking a few holes in the wrap. (Fruit flies can crawl into the holes in the plastic wrap but can’t figure out how to get back out.) The flies will be attracted to the smell of the fermenting fruit juice and crawl in without being able to get back out; the soap will cut the surface tension so they drown. Apple cider vinegar works best due to its sweetness, but other vinegars may work well, too.
You can also buy commercial sticky traps, which will also attract fruit flies and prevent them from escaping.
Of course, the traps only take care of the adult fruit flies. If the pests have already laid eggs somewhere inside, you’re just going to have to deal with the next generation all over again in a week or so. So you’ll want to make sure to clean your home and eliminate the flies’ food sources out in the open as much as possible.
If you’ve overwatered your plants or brought plants inside, perhaps over the winter, your issue may be fungus gnats that are attracted to the fungus that has infected the soil, whether or not you can see it yourself. Repotting the plant and throwing out the old soil usually does the trick, says Keck.
If you suspect you have drain flies, you’ll need to clean the drains, sinks, and garbage disposals—which involves more than pouring bleach or boiling water down there, since that’s not enough to get rid of the organic slime the flies are feeding on and laying eggs in.
“Drains are a big issue in a home,” says Keck. “If you suspect the issue’s a drain, place double-sided sticky tape on half the drain and don’t run any water in it and leave it overnight. If they’re stuck to it in the morning, then you know it’s the drain. Enzymatic cleaners will get rid of that gunk.”
You can buy enzymatic drain cleaners at hardware stores or online, including ones from popular brands like Zep, Green Gobbler, and Amazon.
Fruit flies, drain flies, and fungus flies only live a couple weeks, so once you’ve treated your space for the adult flies and taken all the preventative measures necessary, especially eliminating food sources, you should see the problem diminish in a few days, and then abate entirely in a week or two, says Keck.
The TakeawayFruit flies are everywhere, and it’s inevitable that you’ll have to deal with them at some point. But by taking basic, regular cleaning steps and eliminating the flies’ food sources, you’ll be able to stamp out any infestations quickly. Make sure to maintain the outdoor areas of your home to prevent fruit flies from coming in. Keeping drains and surfaces clean, sealing off or refrigerating fruits and vegetables, and regularly taking out trash, recycling, and compost are key to preventing fruit flies from invading your home. And if you’re already dealing with an infestation, the apple cider vinegar trick or a commercial sticky trap should be enough to catch these little pests.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseySummer is, without a doubt, my favorite season for cooking. The abundance and variety of produce available has me running to the farmers market so I can snatch up juicy peaches, heirloom tomatoes, and bicolor corn. I fill my basket with tender zucchini and crunchy sweet peppers, eager to take advantage of all that summer has to offer.
While I love turning all the seasonal produce into delicious meals, that doesn’t mean I want to spend the entire summer in the kitchen—most evenings, I still want to get dinner on the table fast. Aside from occasional undertakings like eggplant parm or Southern tomato pie, I often look to summer meals that are light, refreshing, and quick to make.
Luckily for me, there are plenty of speedy, minimal-effort seasonal dinner recipes on our site to choose from. Below, you’ll find 10 of my favorite summer dinner recipes that bring together the best of the season—and can be made in less than 30 minutes.
The Best Moules Marinières (Sailor-Style Mussels)Serious Eats / Qi AiInexpensive, elegant, and easy, these mussels are the ultimate one-pot meal. Just don't forget the crusty bread for dipping!
Rigatoni Con Pesce Spada (Pasta With Swordfish, Tomato, and Eggplant)Vicky WasikThis easy, breezy Sicilian summertime classic relies on high quality ingredients for the best results.
Laab Moo Isan (Thai Isan-Style Minced Pork Salad)Vicky WasikSalads are a key component to a balanced Thai meal, and this bright, spicy, and refreshing northeastern Thai meat version is one of our favorites.
Bibim Guksu (Korean Cold Mixed NoodlesSerious Eats / Matt HunzikerCool down with a bowl of these Korean cold noodles, which get their spicy sweetness from a gochujang-based sauce and extra nuttiness from crushed sesame seeds.
Crunchy Fried Fish TacosSerious Eats / Jen CauseyHere, double stacks of corn tortillas filled with beer-battered fish, crisp shredded cabbage, and pickled onions are topped with spicy mayo, cilantro, and lime.
Air-Fryer SalmonSerious Eats/Jen CauseyOur foolproof air-fryer salmon cooks in under 15 minutes and guarantees tender fish with crisp skin every time.
The Ultimate Smash CheeseburgerSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezSame smash burger size, but twice the amount of crisp, browned crust.
Pasta With Burst Cherry Tomatoes and XO SauceVicky WasikThis recipe is further proof that all you need to elevate a quick weeknight dinner is the right condiment.
XO Mazemen (Broth-less Ramen With XO Sauce)Vicky WasikThis pantry-friendly variation on ramen is ready in no time thanks to XO sauce, a powerfully savory condiment.
Grilled Tuna SteaksVicky WasikNice and thick slabs of tuna loin are one of the keys to ensuring perfect results on the grill every time. Serve it next to rice and a light salad for a complete meal.
Despite Philadelphia’s reputation as the "Cheesesteak Capital of the World," there's one food that's even more ubiquitous in the City of Brotherly Love: the Philly soft pretzel.
Thicker, doughier, and more elongated than your traditional soft pretzel—the ones limited to baseball-stadium concession stands, movie theaters, and food carts in most other cities—this beloved staple can be found at pretty much every corner store, local sporting event, and cafeteria in the greater Philadelphia area. They’re sold in elementary schools and high schools during lunch, by vendors stationed throughout Center City, and at Wawa convenience stores. Volunteer firefighters hawk them at stoplights to raise funds for their departments, and local businesses buy them in bulk as employee treats. Even regional Walmarts sell them. And, of course, there are the dedicated, stand-alone pretzel bakeries that have been baking them fresh, first thing in the morning, for decades (often along with variations, such as pretzel rolls and braids). The Philly pretzel is a sight as familiar to the Philadelphian as The Franklin Institute Science Museum or the Delaware River.
It's said that Philadelphians (this includes those who live in the greater suburbs, and South Jersey folk like me) eat more than 12 times as many pretzels as the average American. A wide variety of pretzels and pretzel-adjacent snacks—grocery store SuperPretzels, sourdough hard pretzels, chocolate-covered pretzels, and peanut butter–filled pretzels—are made around Philly; even Auntie Anne's Pretzels originated at a farmers market just outside the city.
Serious Eats / Drew LazorPhilly pretzels come in rows of five or more paper clip–shaped, pull-apart coils, their burnished brown crusts speckled with flakes of salt. Every local can immediately call to mind the distinct pleasure of biting through the outer shell (sometimes crisp, though often "just cooked") and sinking their teeth into the thick, chewy, soft interior of a still-warm pretzel as the savory scent of freshly baked dough fills the air. But ask that same local to describe what makes the Philly pretzel’s taste and texture unique, and you’ll get a fuzzier answer, laden with je ne sais quoi (but frequently meandering back to "doughy" and "dense"). In other words, Philadelphians talk about their pretzels the way they might talk about the ineffable charms of a soul mate. "The way people in the Philadelphia area love their soft pretzels reminds me of New Yorkers and their love of bagels," says Susan Heim Kelly, a South Jersey transplant who now resides on Long Island, New York.
History of the Philly Soft PretzelThe histories of Philadelphia and the pretzel are so intertwined that at one point in the early '90s, Philly was home to its very own pretzel museum. But how did pretzels become such an integral part of Philadelphia’s culinary and cultural fabric?
Though most sources agree that the first pretzel ever was created by a western European monk around AD 610, it took until roughly the 18th century for the laugenbrezel—the typical Bavarian pretzel that’s dark brown, soft on the inside, and crispy on the outside from the application of a lye solution—to appear in North America.
According to the folks at Julius Sturgis Pretzel Bakery, Palatine German immigrants (now known as the Pennsylvania Dutch) brought pretzels with them to the New World as early as 1710. However, it wasn’t until 1861 that the Sturgis bakery, which claims to be America's first commercial pretzel bakery, finally opened its doors in Lititz, Pennsylvania, in the heart of bucolic Lancaster County. For years, the company shared a story that in 1850, a hobo riding the rails hopped off near a bakery in Lancaster County and exchanged an age-old pretzel recipe for a meal, but it recently admitted that this jawn was a myth. Instead, the company simply fine-tuned and perfected an existing recipe, creating one of America’s favorite snack foods in the process. Soon enough, this European-style soft pretzel would take over America's ball parks, snack stands, and food courts.
Serious Eats / Drew LazorAt the same time, however, a new offshoot of that pretzel was also emerging: the Philadelphia soft pretzel. Though details on its evolution are murky, what we know for sure is that the Nacchio family's Federal Baking Company in South Philadelphia is a bona fide front-runner for the honor of having created the distinct Philly pretzel style. In the 1920s, the bakery—later renamed the Federal Pretzel Baking Company, and now a part of South Jersey–based conglomerate J&J Snack Foods—began using conveyor equipment to bake pretzels in bulk: Rods of dough were hand-twisted into elongated figure-eight shapes, squished against one another, and run through an alkaline soaking solution before baking, resulting in a string of soft pretzels that had to be pulled apart before eating. The Nacchio family even started selling them to local schools, thus instilling in Philadelphia-area students an undying love for the company’s pretzels.
Serious Eats / Drew Lazor"For anyone that grew up here, that love of soft pretzels is tucked somewhere way back in their memories," says South Jerseyan Gerald "Gerry" B. Shreiber, J&J's founder and president. "They stir up endorphins that take you right back to childhood."
Like most area natives, Tom Monaghan discovered the city's beloved soft pretzel at a young age, snacking on them after Little League games played in northwest Philly's Roxborough neighborhood. Monaghan was the chief development officer at Philly Pretzel Factory, a franchised bakery with 174 locations in 19 different states. The Factory's pretzel party trays are a standard at hospital conferences, school gatherings, and company social events, and each franchise's ability to bake hundreds of pretzels to order makes Philly Pretzel Factory a go-to for local fundraisers.
"Philly and South Jersey expats are always the first ones to show up at our out-of-state openings," says Monaghan. "They help us spread the Philly love." Still, as the Factory continues expanding across the US, some dyed-in-the-wool Philadelphians question the authenticity of its pretzels.
Serious Eats / Drew LazorWhat Defines a Philadelphia Soft Pretzel?This raises the question: What actually defines a Philadelphia soft pretzel? A good Philly soft pretzel has the perfect skin-to-dough ratio—about four times as much doughy interior as thin exterior—and, when eaten straight from the oven and almost squishy inside, seems to melt in your mouth. That softness is what distinguishes the Philly style, and it can make the traditional soft pretzel sold in other states seem almost hard in comparison.
But is it important that a Philly soft pretzel be produced and eaten in the city? It depends on whom you ask. As Shreiber sees it, "Some things—like Philadelphia soft pretzels—don't travel well. It's just such a part of Philly culture." He isn’t alone in that assessment. While there are those who think it’s the ingredients, most notably the "wudder," and the technique that make a Philadelphia pretzel, others believe it's impossible to separate the people of Philadelphia from the pretzels themselves. "It isn't a Philly pretzel because somebody puts the name ‘Philly’ on the bag," says Erika Bonnett, whose family has owned and operated South Philly's Center City Pretzel since its opening more than 37 years ago. "It comes from a family of hard workers, who've put their lives into making pretzels for nearly four decades with nothing but their customers and each other in mind."
Serious Eats / Drew LazorFor still others, an abiding preference for a Philly soft pretzel baked in Philly is driven by pure nostalgia. Family-owned and -operated Furfari's Soft Pretzel Bakery (now closed) was located in the city's Fishtown neighborhood, where it had stood for nearly 60 years. Each and every pretzel was still twisted by hand. "My husband grew up right around the corner [from Furfari's]," says South Jerseyan Carey Collins-Harris. "He will still drive over [the bridge from New Jersey] to get them straight from their oven, fresh and warm."
The question of whether you can take the pretzel out of Philly without taking Philly out of the pretzel remains unanswered, but despite the debate, it’s clear that you don’t have to be a local to be a fan.
"I don't think it's simply Philadelphians and South Jerseyans who are enamored with [Philly] soft pretzels," says Lisa Furfari Barb, Furfari's social media administrator. "Anyone lured into the bakery by the aroma of baking pretzels is thinking, 'Can I get some mustard and a soft drink to go with that?'"
Serious Eats / Greg BakerI live on the west coast of Florida, but not on the water. From here, it’s a short trip inland to the woods or, in the opposite direction, the Gulf of Mexico. Because of the climate, cold drinks are a must-have for either destination and coolers are ubiquitous—so much so that (in a weird cultural phenomenon) local people display their brand loyalty on their cars, trucks, and boats.
As an outdoor enthusiast, I’ve always regarded coolers as strictly utilitarian devices, unable to wrap my head around the fierce loyalty of the cooler-as-status-symbol craze. To attempt to understand the hubbub, I took 11 top-selling coolers into my home and, to some degree, punished them to see which stood up to my tests. I let them bake in the summer sun, threw them in the dirt, and dragged them down stairs. As fun as that sounds, it was also a little exhausting. After my tests, here are the best coolers you can buy.
The Winners, at a GlanceEvery cooler I tested put up a strong showing, but the Yeti Roadie 48 had an excellent balance of insulation and storage space, and its compact cube shape made it easy to carry and stow. The wheels and telescoping handle meant it was wonderfully maneuverable.
The Orca Cooler is durable and very spacious. It’s a little hard for one person to easily carry, but that’s not a disqualifier.
The RovR RollR was one of the last coolers standing in my cold retention test. It’s built with traveling in mind and has the largest and most durable wheels of any cooler I tested.
The Coleman is a zero-frills model (well, it does have molded cup holders on top of its lid) that offers excellent cold retention for overnight trips and a generous capacity. It’s a fraction of the price of its closest competitors.
The TestsI loaded each cooler with the same groceries in the same order to test their capacity.Serious Eats / Greg Baker Capacity Test: I set out to see how much each cooler could hold, and I loaded each cooler with three ice packs and enough food and drink for a few people for an overnight camping trip. As I packed each cooler, I noted if all the items fit, if anything was crushed when I closed the lid, and if there was room for more food. * Mobility Test: After I loaded the coolers, I picked each one up and walked around with it for one minute—across my wooden deck, down a few steps, and over some grass. Some of these coolers weighed almost 40 pounds empty, and it was important to know how easily one could move them when fully loaded. For coolers with wheels, I pulled them across my wooden deck, bounced them down a few steps, and traversed grass, sand, and pavement to see how easily they rolled. * Durability Test: Cooler manufacturers pride themselves on their product’s durability. But how do the claims add up? My “driveway” is part alley, part beat-up parking pad, and a mixture of broken asphalt, brick, sand, gravel, and crushed oyster shells. I loaded each cooler, placed it on my truck's tailgate, and pushed it off onto my “driveway” five times. My neighbors should be used to the odd sights of my product testing by now, but one couldn’t help themselves and yelled, “Yeah! Screw them coolers!” as they watched me repeatedly knock them down. After that brief interlude, I noted any damage from the fall and if the cooler’s lid stayed closed. * Cold Retention Test: Every manufacturer claims that its cooler will hold ice for a long time. To verify this, I used the unique climate of West Central Florida as a test environment. I filled each cooler with 16 pounds of ice and set it in the full sun. The daily “feels like” temperatures topped 100°F, with the actual high temperature around 95°F, nighttime lows in the mid 80°F range, and humidity from 70 to 93%. I tracked the temperature every morning and early evening with an instant-read thermometer. Once a cooler’s temperature topped 40°F (the maximum food-safe temperature), I removed it from the test population. I continued the test until all the coolers exceeded 40°F. * Drain Test:* I don’t know how I acquired this task, but I am responsible for dealing with every cooler in my house once it’s empty. Some coolers are easier to drain, and some require flipping a 20-plus-pound cooler upside down while holding the lid open to remove leftover water. All the coolers I tested had drains, and I wanted to see how well they worked. I recorded how much water remained after the draining stopped and how easy or difficult it was to empty that remaining water.
What We LearnedCold Retention VariedMost of the coolers did a respectable job in my cold retention test.Serious Eats / An UongIn what’s arguably one of the worst summer environments in the US, these coolers all held ice for a respectable amount of time. Your cold needs may be greater or shorter than someone else’s, so here’s how each model rated in my tests. I checked the coolers each morning and evening. Below is when I found them above 40°F:
Insulation Cost Storage Space
Most coolers I tested were thickly insulated, often with polyurethane foam or a similar substance. That insulation provides long cooling times but often limits interior storage space. Additionally, some of the wheeled models sacrificed space to accommodate wheel wells. How much room can insulation take up? The chart shows exterior size versus interior room.
To explain how that usable storage space played out in real life, these are the items I added to each cooler to test its capacity:
- One 1L bottle of sparkling water (about the size of a bottle of wine)
- One 12-pack of seltzer
- One pound of bacon
- One pound of sliced deli meat
- One pack of sliced cheese
- One dozen eggs
- Two packs of charcuterie
- One pound of butter
- One bag of apples
- One loaf of sliced bread
- One pack of snack cheese
Most of the coolers, with a few exceptions, accommodated this amount of food and drink. The smaller Yeti Roadie coolers aren’t designed to hold this much. The Yeti Tundra 45 couldn’t fit all the ice packs, and its lid wouldn’t close with the sparkling water bottle inside.
More Insulation Meant a Heavier CoolerLighter coolers, like the Coleman shown here, had less insulation...and therefore cold retention.Serious Eats / Greg BakerI used to do a lot of work traveling for out-of-town fundraisers, food festivals, and the like. I’d have to fly with coolers packed with food for a few hundred people as checked bags. I’d frequently find one or more coolers over the 50-pound weight restriction, which was very easy to do when starting with an empty cooler that weighed 22 pounds. Unless you’re flying somewhere for, say, a camping vacation, you probably won’t find yourself in that position very often. However, you will probably have to load a cooler into and out of a car. Be aware that modern coolers, with their sturdy construction and thick insulation, are not light. Adding 20 or so pounds of food, drinks, and ice increases the weight dramatically. Here’s how much each of the coolers I tested weighed empty:
Unsurprisingly, wheeled coolers were the easiest to move over longer distances. I also preferred coolers with long, rope handles with large silicone grips, which prevented them from twisting around or biting into my palms. If you want a cooler that's super portable, you'll probably just want to opt for a soft cooler.
They Were Hardier Than ExpectedPretty much all of the coolers were durable.Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmThe Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee rates some of the coolers I tested as bear-resistant (under certain conditions). I expected those to be durable, but what about the others? Well, not one cooler escaped the abrasive amalgam of my driveway without at least some superficial damage—but that was the extent of it. I expected some to lose tops or break handles, but they didn’t. Curiously, every cooler landed upside down on its lid, where it took scuffing and a few deeper scratches. No cooler broke, though.
Drains Could Be Effective—or Not
Every cooler I tested had a plugged drain that worked with varying degrees of success. The Orca and Yeti Tundra 45 had the most effective drains, removing water completely on their own. The most infuriating drains were ones with deep depressions around them that trapped residual liquid, even after turning the coolers over to empty them.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a CoolerSerious Eats / Greg BakerThe best cooler is the one that suits your needs. Do you want a high-capacity cooler or one that holds ice for days? Also, consider how often you’ll use it. The coolers I tested range in price from $48 to $400, so you may not want to make a major investment if you’ll only use it once a year. My favorite coolers balanced cold retention and storage space, with weight as a tertiary consideration.
Our Favorite CoolersWhat we liked: The Roadie 48 has a cube shape and a large storage capacity. The telescoping handle has a comfortable 6.5-inch grip and the cooler features rugged, seven-inch wheels. Its built-in handles are also comfortable, and I had no issues carrying the cooler around. It had great cold retention with a tight-latching lid that complemented the thick polyurethane insulation.
What we didn’t like: At 28 pounds, it wasn’t the heaviest cooler I tested, but starting off at that weight translates to a heavy cooler when it’s full. Its drain is more frustrating than others. Yes, it drained water, but about a half-inch remained at the bottom. I rocked the cooler back on its wheels, and most of the remaining water came out.
Key Specs: Capacity: 76 cans/54 pounds ice * Exterior dimensions: 20.6 x 20.1 x 19.8 inches * Interior dimensions: 14.5 x 11.4 x 15.8 inches * Weight: 28 pounds * Wheels: Yes * Extra features:* Telescoping handle, dry bin, tie-down points, non-skid feet
Serious Eats / Greg BakerWhat we liked: The Orca has one of the best storage capacities of any cooler I tested. It held ice for over 60 hours and was one of two models that drained completely without the need for human intervention. It had tough latches and, though it took some superficial damage when I pushed it repeatedly to the ground, was quite durable.
What we didn’t like: The handles, which are curved plastic grips covering woven straps, are comfortable to hold, but the cooler is heavy enough that it’d be difficult for one person to carry easily.
Key Specs: Capacity: 46 cans * Exterior dimensions: 27 x 19.4 x 19.4 inches * Interior dimensions: 19.9 x 13.4 x 13.1 * Weight: 36 pounds * Extra features:* Cargo net for storage, slip-resistant feet
Serious Eats / Henry WortockWhat we liked: The RovR held its temperature for over 72 hours and was one of only two coolers that completely drained on its own. Thanks to the oversized nine-inch tires and comfortable, T-shaped handle with dual four-inch grips, this cooler rolled down steps and across sand, grass, and concrete with great ease. It’s tough, too. Although it scuffed in the durability testing, this cooler is bear-resistant when taking the proper extra steps (like using bear-resistant locks).
What we didn’t like: While this cooler rolled over any surface I tested it on, the wheel arrangement hit my legs when I was carrying it, making movement clumsy. The wheel wells ate into usable storage space.
Key Specs: Capacity: 60 cans plus 10 lbs of ice * Exterior dimensions: 16.9 x 20.8 x 20 inches * Interior dimensions: 19.6 x 10.6 x 12 inches * Weight: 39 pounds * Wheels: Yes * Extra features:* Tie-down points, dry bin, non-skid feet
Serious Eats / Greg BakerWhat we liked: I’ve had Coleman products in my orbit since I was a toddler, including a tent I’ve owned for about 30 years that protected me from a tropical storm that passed over three times. Coleman gear isn’t flashy, but the products are simple and reliable, such as the 316 Series. It has none of the highly engineered, inches-thick insulation of many of its competitors. It won’t keep pace with them, but it did hold a food-safe temperature for over 36 hours. It didn’t take significant damage in the fall tests and is an excellent cooler for overnight trips that costs less than $50.
What we didn’t like: This cooler has no latches, and the lid popped open during three of the five fall tests.
Key Specs: Capacity: 80 cans * Exterior dimensions: 26 x 16.3 x 16.5 inches * Interior dimensions: 22 x 12.7 x 12 inches * Weight: 16.4 pounds * Wheels: No * Extra features:* Molded cup holders
Serious Eats / Greg BakerThe Competition* Yeti Tundra 45 Hard Cooler: The Tundra performed well in most of my testing but lacked capacity. I couldn’t stand a wine bottle up inside, I could only fit two of three ice packs, and I couldn’t close the lid without crushing the bread. * Rtic 52-Quart Ultra-Light Wheeled Hard Cooler: The Rtic held ice for over 48 hours and had reasonable storage space. It wasn’t particularly comfortable to carry; the molded grips required me to hold it like I was doing bicep curls to relieve stress on my hands. * Canyon PRO 45 Quart Cooler The Canyon might be discontinued at this point, which is a shame because it rated very highly in testing. There were a few downsides: The cooler weighed 38 pounds empty, and after about two hours in the sun, the handle grips emitted an oily, sticky substance that coated my hands and was difficult to wash off. * Igloo BMX 52 Quart Hard Cooler: There was nothing wrong with this cooler; it just didn’t impress. It held ice for over 48 hours, and if I had to find fault with it, the positioning of the fold-up handles caused strain on my wrists. * Yeti Roadie 32 Cooler: The Roadie 32 is a smaller-capacity cooler that’s fine for an overnight trip for two, but it’s not highly versatile. It held ice for over 72 hours. * Yeti Roadie 15 Cooler: The Yeti 15 is a newer model that was even smaller than the 32 but had equal performance. It’s a great picnic cooler but not large enough for an overnight trip.
FAQsWhere are Yeti coolers made? Yeti has manufacturing facilities worldwide, including the USA, Vietnam, the Philippines, Poland, China, Mexico, Malaysia, Taiwan, and Thailand.
Why are Yeti coolers so expensive?Yeti coolers have a reputation for high prices, and most of the Yeti models I tested ran between $300 to $400. The price comes from the almost over-engineering of the one-piece molded design and thick insulation. But coolers of a similar caliber and manufacturing fall in line with Yeti’s prices, like the RovR RollR 60 Rolling Cooler (about $400).
Why We’re the Experts* Greg Baker is a multi-time James Beard Award-nominated former chef from Tampa, Florida. * He’s reviewed knife sharpeners, charcoal starter chimneys, and more for Serious Eats. * Greg punished 11 coolers in the Florida summer heat for this review and desperately needs hydration.
Serious Eats / Julia EstradaI can eat desserts like it’s my full-time job. Whether it’s ice cream, pistachio baklava, or carrot cake, my day simply isn’t complete until I’ve had a dose of sweetness. Making dessert from scratch can be daunting, though, especially if there’s a long list of ingredients or special equipment involved. The good news? Not all homemade desserts require numerous ingredients. In fact, there are plenty of recipes that call for five ingredients or less.
With just a few staples like flour, sugar, butter, milk, and cream on hand, plus some fruit and a pint or two of ice cream, you can whip up impressive, delicious desserts without even having to dash to the grocery store. Fancy a chocolate mousse? How about a classic British sundae or a grandma-approved shortbread recipe? Below, we’ve rounded up our favorite sweet-as-can-be summer dessert recipes that require fewer than five ingredients. The only question left is: Which one will you be making on repeat?
Bakery-Worthy Meringue CookiesSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezWith a little know-how, you can make spectacular meringue cookies that won’t break or weep on you.
British Banoffee PieSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis low-effort dessert with gooey dulce de leche, sliced bananas, and whipped cream is a British classic—and one I bring to every dinner party.
Avocado Chocolate MousseSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe secret to ultra-creamy and velvety smooth vegan chocolate mousse? Ripe avocados.
Cornflake Marshmallow TreatsSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe naturally sweet and earthy flavor of Corn Flakes shines in this riff on classic Rice Krispies treats.
Strawberry ShortcakesSerious Eats / Julia EstradaTen minutes and a few ingredients make an awesome dessert with minimal effort.
Pengat Pisang (Malaysian Banana Coconut Soup)Serious Eats / Michelle YipThis delightful Malaysian dessert with pleasantly chewy sago pearls, bananas, and coconut milk is the best kind of pick-me-up.
Financiers (French Mini Almond Cakes)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezDeeply satisfying to eat, these tender-crisp financiers benefit from nutty brown butter and ground toasted almonds.
Fāloodeh (Persian Frozen Noodle and Rose Water Sorbet)Serious Eats / Nader MehravariDelicate threads of frozen noodles are front-and-center in every scoop of this sumptuous rose water–flavored icy dessert.
Shortbread CookiesSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezEach bite of these shortbread cookies is rich and buttery, with a tender, crumbly texture that melts in your mouth. Plus: The dough takes just five minutes to make.
Knickerbocker GlorySerious Eats / Larisa NiedleFeaturing vanilla ice cream, fresh strawberries, whipped cream, and a fan wafer, the knickerbocker glory is a summer staple across the United Kingdom.
Roasted StrawberriesVicky WasikIf you're dealing with summer strawberries plucked too soon, roasting will stain even the palest berries a ruby red.
Berry and Kiwi Pan-African Flag PopsiclesSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineSarah Enelow-Snyder loves making these with her kids to teach them about the history of the Pan-African flag, Black liberation, and Black empowerment.
Ultimate Strawberry PopsiclesVicky WasikWith fresh strawberries, strawberry jam, and optional freeze-dried strawberry powder, these frozen pops are a cinch to make and are bursting with flavor.
The Best Strawberry Ice CreamSerious Eats / Qi AiThis may be one of the the trickiest ice cream flavors to get right—until you use this recipe, that is.
Serious Eats / Greg BakerThe previous owners of my house remodeled my kitchen almost 25 years ago. They brought the 100-year-old galley kitchen into the start of this century with the finest contractor-grade fixtures available. Among them is one of the most useless range hoods known to humankind. Yes, it has a fan and a filter and it vents outdoors, but mostly, it just makes noise and provides us with a Southern night light. We leave the light on for when we stumble into the kitchen before dawn and to keep our cats from being in total darkness.
What my range hood doesn’t do is remove smoke or odors when cooking. To remediate this, I tried the AirHood, a portable range hood with a charcoal filter that promises to control smoke, odors, and airborne grease. I was game to find a better solution than what I currently have, so I used the AirHood for a month, turning it on when cooking particularly smoky things, like searing steaks and cooking bacon, and stashing it away after.
The TestsSerious Eats / Greg Baker Steak Test: Typically, searing steaks in my kitchen requires removing the smoke detector and opening every window in the house. My dogs stay low to the ground and sneeze profusely during this process. I often, out of an abundance of caution and sympathy for them, just use the grill outside. To see if the AirHood could mitigate this unfortunate situation, I set it next to the stove, heated a cast iron skillet, and added two seasoned steaks, searing them for three to four minutes per side. I wanted to witness how much smoke accumulated, whether the smoke detector went off, and whether there were any lingering odors. * Fish Test: Who doesn’t like the smell of pan-roasted fish lingering in the house? I seared some skin-on snapper fillets with the AirHood perched nearby. While fish doesn’t typically produce as much smoke as searing a steak, there is plenty of grease sputtering and popping, spreading the joyous odor of cooked fish throughout the house. I exited the house and reentered a few minutes later, to see how well the AirHood worked. * Bacon Test: Bacon provided the best-case scenario for testing the grease and odor containment. I laid out a package of bacon on a griddle to see how much grease flew onto my stovetop and how long the hickory-smoked aroma lingered in the air. * Usability Test:* I monitored how easy the AirHood was to get started with and use in various positions around my stove. I also checked how effective it was at different speeds. I took into account placement and noise in my observations.
What We LearnedIt Was Extremely Easy to UseSerious Eats / Greg BakerI tested the wired AirHood (there is also a rechargeable wireless model), which is compatible with both electric and gas stoves. It requires an outlet, a countertop large enough to accommodate its 8.5- by 5.5-inch footprint and cabinet clearance for its 13-inch height. I plugged the AirHood into the never-used second outlet behind my refrigerator and set it on an otherwise fairly useless strip of counter next to my stove, and I was ready to go. Well, almost.
The operation is somewhat self-explanatory, but I didn't find the quick start guide useful. It explains that preparing the AirHood involves plugging the power cord into an outlet. The next step says, “Don’t forget to place a charcoal filter inside before using.” The following note in the guide is on safety, which explains you should never disassemble or clean the AirHood with the cord plugged in. Let’s put the steps in order, okay? Another lapse in the quick start guide is the fact that AirHood requires two filters, a detail only revealed in the online user manual. Inserting one filter as originally directed led to disappointing results in the first test round.
After finding properly setting it up, I pointed the AirHood toward my stove and selected the fan speed. There are three speeds, so you can choose a quieter, slower operation, a balance between volume and effectiveness, or let it rip on the loudest setting.
It Removed Smoke and SmellsSerious Eats / Greg BakerAfter I managed the proper filter arrangement, I was impressed by my first run with the AirHood. While searing steaks, smoke was relatively minimal. By minimal, I mean there was smoke in the air in the kitchen, but not enough to set off the smoke detector or spread to other rooms. I’ll take that as a clear win. There was a minor odor in the air, but not so much that it would permeate fabric in the house, as it had with my built-in range hood. But here’s the caveat: A second attempt at smoky cooking didn’t fare as well. But that was on me. Cleaning the grease filter in the AirHood is essential to good performance since that filter is the first line of the AirHood’s defense. If it’s even remotely clogged, the performance deteriorates significantly. Follow the cleaning recommendations, and the AirHood does very well.
It Was Loud, ThoughThere’s no way of getting around this: The AirHood is loud. At its lowest setting, it’s louder (yet much more effective) than the high setting of my range hood. The medium setting is the best balance between efficiency and volume, but I needed the very loud high setting to keep smoke from accumulating during the steak test.
It Was Easy to Store and CleanIf you have an otherwise non-functional strip of countertop like me, the AirHood can live there without taking up too much room. It can also be tucked away in a cabinet if you have space. There’s also a hook for hanging the AirHood if that’s more convenient for your situation.
The full user manual recommends cleaning the grease filter on the AirHood’s front after every use and tidying up the unit’s body too. Don’t sleep on cleaning the grease filter, as it does its job well, but accumulated grease quickly reduces the AirHood’s airflow. The charcoal filters are long-lasting and good for 100 hours of use between changes.
The VerdictProsThe ease and efficiency of the AirHood sold me. Given that I’ve heretofore had to sear steaks outside for the health and safety of my furry kids, I’m pretty happy that I can have a smokeless, somewhat odor-free house and not have to brave heat, insects, or rain. I’ve got a small kitchen, and the AirHood’s footprint is entirely unobtrusive. With it, I gain efficacy and lose almost nothing. You can always hang your AirHood up or stow it in a cabinet.
ConsIt's most recommended for use with electric ranges or induction burners. You can use it with gas burners, but the brand stresses you should ensure proper distance from the burner’s flame to avoid damage to the unit from the heat. My chief complaint, which I can balance with the AirHood’s effectiveness, is how loud it is. But to put that into perspective, the AirHood is far from deafening. You’ll have difficulty conversing with someone in another room or might have to turn your music up to hear it, but it won’t hurt your ears. While the AirHood does minimize smoke and odors, it was still clear that I’d been cooking smelly food when I walked back in the house. But hey, my house smelled faintly of bacon. What’s wrong with that?
Key Specs Dimensions: 13.15 x 8.70 x 5.51 inches * Power: 100 to 240 volts * What’s included:* AirHood, five charcoal filters, oil filter
Serious Eats / Greg BakerFAQsHow does a charcoal filter work, exactly?Carbon filters work via adsorption, which is almost the direct opposite of absorption. If you blot up some spilled water with a sponge or towel, they draw the water inside, but it doesn’t become part of the towel; rather, it just occupies space between the fibers. Carbon, the main component of charcoal, forms a lattice of atoms. In adsorption, the smoke and noxious smells cling to the outside of the carbon lattice, cleaning the air until there aren’t any more surfaces to cling to, at which point it’s time to change the charcoal filter.
Can you use the AirHood outdoors?It would seem like the AirHood would be effective at removing excess wood or charcoal smoke during cooking. However, the manufacturer states that the AirHood is only for indoor use.
Why We’re the Experts* Greg Baker is a multi-time James Beard Award-nominated former chef from Tampa, Florida. * He’s reviewed knife sharpeners, charcoal starter chimneys, and more for Serious Eats. * For this review, Greg used the AirHood in his home for a month.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreCharcoal is a convenient, quick-lighting, hot-burning fuel source for grilling hot dogs in the park or slow-smoking barbecue. But not all charcoal is created equally, nor is it a one-size-fits-all solution. It's surprisingly varied. There's lump charcoal, binchotan, briquettes, and instant light—so which do you choose?
We dug into the differences so you'll know which bag to grab, whether you're using a kettle grill to char some chicken breasts or smoking ribs in a barrel grill.
So, What Is Charcoal?Charcoal is, at its most basic, pre-burnt wood.Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreCharcoal is made by burning wood in a low-oxygen environment causing water, sap, and other volatile substances to cook off, leaving large chunks of carbon and some trace minerals. The remaining wood (a.k.a. charcoal) is a hotter-burning fuel than the original piece since the energy required to burn off those volatile substances is no longer needed. From there, it gets more nuanced depending on the type of charcoal, which we'll get into below.
What Is Lump Charcoal?Lump charcoal pieces are irregularly shaped, because they're less processed than briquettes.Serious Eats / Katrina CosseyLump charcoal is closest to the original block of wood, or so we can surmise. The best lump charcoal is made by burning hardwoods like oak and hickory in an airtight environment. Since the end product is remarkably pure, it leaves clean, white ash, and any charcoal that doesn’t fully burn is suitable for reuse. When buying lump charcoal, shake the bag and listen for small bits rattling in the bottom. Your best bet is a bag with the least rattling, indicating larger chunks and fewer fragments and dust. Lump charcoal is a great choice for long-cooking applications and barbecue, but it can also reach high temperatures, making it excellent for searing meat and the like. We tested 13 bags of lump charcoal, using them in both high- and low-heat grilling tests. Below are our top picks.
Our Favorite Lump CharcoalJealous Devil’s lump charcoal lights quickly and burns for a long time (90 minutes in our tests), providing even heat throughout the cooking process. The company claims it’s made from sustainable wood, and it doesn’t pop and spark when lighting, although it does produce a bit of smoke in the beginning before settling down.
Before getting to the technical aspects of this charcoal, I'll point out the “Good” in the company name. This lump charcoal is made from acacia wood from Namibia in an attempt to prevent grassland encroachment that threatens the ecology there. Now for the details.
The Good charcoal is more evenly sized than the Jealous Devil, and sifting to reduce dust that creates smoke, sparks, and pops is part of the company's manufacturing process. It lights in a chimney in about 15 minutes, and the large lump size minimizes charcoal loss during lighting.
What Is Binchotan Charcoal?Binchotan charcoal is traditionally used in a konro grill, but you can also use it in kettle-style grills.Serious Eats / Grace KellyNow that we understand the high-level concept of lump charcoal, making binchotan will make more sense. It’s one thing to burn wood in a low-oxygen environment. It’s another to burn it at temperatures topping 2,300°F. This process yields exceptionally clean-burning, smokeless charcoal that produces infrared heat in the neighborhood of 1,200°F with no visible flame. Binchotan is excellent for high-heat searing applications. While it’s expensive, it is intended for multiple uses, meaning you can put it out by smothering it and save it for another cooking session. It’s the preferred charcoal for yakitori and Konro grills.
Our Favorite Binchotan CharcoalThis binchotan from Jealous Devil burns hot and clean, as per the style. The infrared heat sears quickly and cooks food from the inside out. As such, it quickly cooks and evaporates water from food and has great potential to leave the food dry. So, this is charcoal intended for fast, hot cooking and is not suited for low-temperature applications.
The Bincho Grill Store charcoal is a bump in price from Jealous Devil and sells sizes between 0.75 and 2.5 inches in diameter. It’s made from oak wood and also claims to be an effective water purifier (although we haven’t tested that).
Thai-style grilling also uses charcoal logs. The brand Thaan sells a proprietary version made from fruit orchard wood trimmings. Light a few sticks of Thaan and expect four to six hours of burn time, with an incredibly clean fire. Thaan also makes lump charcoal.
What Are Briquettes?Charcoal briquettes have a uniform, pillow-like shape. Some are textured or ridged, which creates better airflow.Serious Eats / Greg BakerBriquettes are probably the most easily recognized form of charcoal and are most often used in charcoal grills. The first step of making briquettes is the same as lump charcoal, but then the charcoal is pulverized, mixed with binders, and compressed into the classic pillow shape. Look for brands with high hardwood content, as some brands mix more softwoods, like pine or sometimes fruit pits, into their briquettes.
This explanation doesn’t mean briquettes are inferior to lump charcoal; they’re just different animals. Charcoal briquettes are the summertime-in-the-park classic for grilling burgers and hotdogs. Briquettes are also good fuel for smoking, as there are ways, such as the snake method, of building a set-it-and-forget-it self-feeding system that ensures a consistent supply of charcoal while maintaining proper temperature.
Our Favorite Briquette CharcoalBecause of its higher hardwood content, Royal Oak Premium burns hotter and longer than many competitors. It deviates from the classic pillow shape, with grooves molded into the flatter surfaces, increasing the airflow across the briquette. Better airflow equals easier lighting and hotter temperatures. But don’t let the mention of hotter temperatures pigeonhole this charcoal; it’s also great for smoking and slow grilling.
Contrary to what many believe, one of the most commonly used woods for barbecue isn’t hickory or mesquite—it’s oak. Oak presents a definite smoke flavor but is more subtle than the other two, which can overwhelm and sometimes turn bitter when used in large quantities. B&B Competition Oak Briquettes provide that subtle flavor in long cooks, but this charcoal also burns hot for searing burgers and steaks. It burns down to light clean ash when done, making cleanup easy.
What Are Instant-Light Briquettes?Instant-light charcoal briquettes are helpful with portable grills, which can be brought camping or tailgating.Serious Eats / Russell Kilgore
It doesn’t matter if you’re a beginner or a seasoned griller; sooner or later, you will use at least one bag of instant-light charcoal. Instant light is a charcoal born of convenience and is simply briquettes pre-coated in a lighter fluid-like substance. Add it to your charcoal chimney and hold a match to a few briquettes, and you’re ready to grill. A word of warning: Don’t be me. I once tried to light an unopened bag of instant light, thinking the bag’s paper would aid in lighting. It did, but I didn’t factor in the physics of expanding heat in an enclosed container, and, well, BOOM.
Our Favorite Instant-Light CharcoalKingsford is an easy-to-use instant-light charcoal available in many grocery and specialty stores, so you won’t have to look hard for it. Because of the lighter fluid coating, be sure your charcoal completely burns down to coals before adding food to the grill to avoid potential off flavors or toxins. Likewise, if you need to add more charcoal during cooking, either add it with no food on the grill and let it burn down or light it in a charcoal chimney and add it to your grill when it’s ready.
FAQsHow do you light charcoal on a grill?There are a few ways of lighting charcoal briquettes and lump charcoal. I’ll list them in order of effectiveness and convenience.
- Charcoal chimney starters: Chimneys are the easiest and most effective means. Place your charcoal in the hopper, add crumpled paper to the bottom chamber, and light the paper. By design, natural convection occurs, lighting the charcoal above, which you then dump into your grill for cooking. A reusable chimney requires no special accessories except some paper and a lighter.
- Lighter blocks: I’ll use “block” as a descriptor, as lighter blocks can be made of dense, compressed sawdust, like these from Masterbuilt, or bundles of wood fiber like these from Kingsford. In either case, the block consists of wood coated with flammable material, often harmless paraffin. You place one or more of these blocks under your charcoal, touch a flame to them, and they light the charcoal.
- Lighter fluid: Use it if you must. Yes, lighter fluid is effective when applied properly, but there are some guidelines for minimizing off-flavors. Many people douse their charcoal in lighter fluid and immediately light it. That can work, but more often than not, it simply burns the lighter fluid without igniting the charcoal. They then add more fluid to a fire that may or may not be visibly burning; the fluid flares and they become contenders for viral videos. Allow the lighter fluid to soak into the charcoal for five to 10 minutes, and the odds change in favor of lighting the charcoal and lowering the chances of your immortalization via internet presence. The same rules apply here as instant-light charcoal: Let the flames burn out completely before adding your food.
- Propane torches: I’ve never had much success with these methods, but I know people who swear by lighting charcoal with a propane torch or an electric lighter. The idea is to apply high heat to the charcoal, and off you go. There’s something primally fun about applying intense flame to things, like in the case of a torch, but the charm wears off when the charcoal starts sparking and popping onto your hands and arms. Not that I, uh, know anything about that.
What’s the best way to store charcoal?Most charcoal comes in a bag with either an inner moisture-repellent liner or a coating on the paper. That protects the charcoal from rain, but after opening the bag, it does little to protect it from ambient humidity. If you live in a particularly humid environment, you can purchase a moisture-resistant storage bin such as one made for storing pet food or a specialized charcoal bin. Either way, keep your charcoal out of the rain or snow for best results.
Can you use charcoal for smoking?Absolutely. My tastes run toward less smoky smoked foods, and I find that hardwood lump charcoal, typically oak unless specified, provides a good, subtle, yet distinctly present flavor to the foods I smoke. Hardwood briquettes work equally well. What’s absent in charcoal is the water and sap found in plain wood, so there’s less popping, smoking, and creosote flavor in the foods.
Can you reuse charcoal?Yes. While typically reserved for lump or binchotan, you can smother the fire by cutting off the air supply and saving unspent charcoal for another cooking session. (A moisture-resistant container is your best bet for this.)
Why We’re the Experts* Greg Baker is a multi-time James Beard Award-nominated former chef from Tampa, Florida. * He’s reviewed knife sharpeners, charcoal starter chimneys, and more for Serious Eats. * We've tested lump charcoal and our editors have extensively used all kinds of charcoal in their grilling endeavors.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineUgali—a supremely satisfying dense cornmeal porridge—is a beloved staple dish in many East and Central African countries, including Kenya and Tanzania. I learned how to make ugali from many women on the Kenyan side of my family: my mother, Katano, my aunt Tilly, and my grandmother, who we call Koko. We’d stand over the stove together and I’d slowly whisk the white cornmeal into a big pot of water while my grandmother constantly stirred the mixture until it thickened. Together we’d flip it onto a platter, slice it, and serve it warm alongside dishes like sukuma wiki (sautéed collard greens) and beef wet fry (meat sautéed with tomato, garlic, and ginger). For me, it's a simple dish that carries the warmth and comfort of home, a true embodiment of family and tradition.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineWhile ugali can have different names, such as "pap" in Southern Africa, regardless of what it's called this simple dish most often appears in its most basic form: an extremely thick porridge made of just fine white cornmeal and water. In some variations, particularly in Maasai traditions, water can be substituted with stock, or a bit of milk and/or tallow can be added. Here I give instructions for preparing ugali as my family taught me—with just a few pats of butter or ghee and a pinch of salt to season it.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineTo me, ugali is the perfect meal accompaniment: It’s hearty and satisfying, its simple flavor profile means it pairs well with almost any meal, plus it comes together in only 15 minutes, and requires just four ingredients to make—and one of those ingredients is water! While it’s easy and quick to prepare, there are a few key steps to ensure that your ugali has a smooth and sliceable texture every time you make it. Here are my tips for cooking ugali that even my grandmother Koko would love.
4 Tips for Cooking the Best Ugali at Home1. Use fine white cornmeal. To achieve ugali’s silky texture, it’s critical to start with the right type of cornmeal. In Kenya a fine white cornmeal called jogoo or maise meal is used. It’s the go-to cornmeal that is readily available at most markets. Its fine texture ensures the ugali has a smooth mouthfeel. When my family cooks ugali in the US, we make a point to use a fine white cornmeal, such as our favorite, Albers White Corn Meal. Quaker brand white cornmeal is also a good option. I have found fine white cornmeal labeled as harina de maiz in many US markets, which can also be used. Just make sure to not confuse harina de maiz with masa harina. Masa harina is nixtamalized cornmeal, and has a very different flavor than plain white cornmeal. Also make sure to avoid coarse cornmeal, grits, or polenta. These cornmeal options won’t achieve the desired smooth texture and they also require more water and time than listed in the recipe to cook properly.
2. Dial in the water to cornmeal ratio to achieve your preferred ugali texture. In Kenya, the consistency of ugali can vary from one household to another. It comes down to personal preference. Some Kenyans prefer ugali very firm, while others, including me and my family, enjoy it when it has a softer texture. The ratio of water to cornmeal is what determines the final texture. With the same cooking time, the more water that is added, the softer the ugali will be. In many Kenyan home’s, ugali is cooked so frequently that home cooks can just eyeball the quantities without measuring. But to achieve ugali that is firm enough to flip out of the pan onto a serving platter without falling apart, while also creamy, it’s important to use two parts water to one part cornmeal by volume to get the perfect consistency every time.
3. Cook until a thin starchy film appears before flipping. As the cornmeal porridge cooks it will thicken into a Play-Doh—like texture, a sign that it is almost ready to flip. But the best signifier for when it's finished cooking is when a thin starchy film appears along the bottom and sides of the pan. The is the sign that the starch is cooked to the point where it is gelling and sticking together, so it will hold its shape.
4. Serve it as a simple side dish. Ugali’s neutral flavor makes it incredibly versatile. It can be served with almost any protein or vegetable. When ready to serve, cut the ugali into wedges, and serve as a side dish. Ugali can be eaten with a fork or with your hands, and it's great for scooping up other foods. In my family, we enjoy it with beef wet fry and sukuma wiki, as mentioned above, but it also pairs well with most stews, braised meats, and vegetables.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineIn a medium (3-4 quart) saucepot, bring 4 cups of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add kosher salt. Reduce heat to medium-low and stir in 2 tablespoons of butter or ghee until melted.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineWhile continuously whisking to prevent lumps from forming, gradually pour in fine white cornmeal. Once all the cornmeal is added, switch to a wooden spoon and stir the ugali, using the spoon to break up any lumps against the side of the pot as needed. Cook, stirring continuously until the water is absorbed and the ugali thickens, about 5 minutes. Continue to cook until the ugali forms a film along the bottom and sides of the pan and is firm enough to hold its shape, 4 to 5 minutes. The texture should be much thicker than polenta or grits and the ugali should hold its shape when pressed with the spoon. Use the wooden spoon to smooth it into an even layer and continue to cook for 1 to 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineRemove from heat and run a small offset spatula or butter knife along the sides of the pot to loosen the ugali. Hold a large serving plate flush to the pot, then invert the ugali onto the plate. The ugali should easily release from the pot onto the plate. If it doesn’t easily release, return it to the stove top and continue to cook for a few more minutes. Once flipped out, keep it covered with the pot or a large bowl until ready to serve, up to 20 minutes.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineCut the ugali into wedges, and serve.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineSpecial EquipmentMedium saucepan (3-4 quarts), whisk, wooden spoon (preferably flat)
NotesMake sure to use fine white cornmeal that has not undergone nixtamalization for this recipe. Coarse cornmeal or polenta or nixtamalized cornmeal (such as masa harina) will not achieve the same texture. Albers White Corn Meal is what my family has successfully used in the USA for years.
Ugali can be kept warm by covering it with the pot it was cooked in until ready to serve.
Make-Ahead and StorageUgali is best enjoyed fresh, but leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat by microwaving wedges covered with a damp paper towel to retain moisture.
Sean TimberlakeFor those of us in northern climates, strawberries are the first tangible evidence that summer has truly arrived. These fragile berries, filled with water and sugar, are beloved both by people and by the kajillion-strong microbe population. To enjoy strawberries, you've got to be quick, because the invisible kingdom of bacteria and molds is just as eager to take a bite. Every moment that your haul of berries sits on the counter, enzymatic decay makes them increasingly susceptible to microbial colonization. It's a race against time that determines who will consume the berry first: you, or the microbes.
Your best defense, aside from eating them all right away, is preservation, but "preservation" is a bit of a misnomer; it's really extension. All preserved foods have a shelf life, and eventually they, too, will degrade to the point of becoming inedible. In the end, all we're trying to do is buy ourselves some time, and the better we understand the science that underlies preservation, the more time we can buy.
The Antimicrobial Tools of the Preservation TradeMost microbes thrive in environments similar to the ones that support human life. They require the same basic elements: water, food, and oxygen. They also have environmental preferences for certain temperature and acidity levels. It helps to visualize a microbe as a wealthy high-society matron in Boca Raton—the environment has to be just right for her to thrive. Too hot, too cold, too dry, too acidic, too salty, too much anything*, and the microbe will die. And, just like Boca retirees, microbes have varying degrees of hardiness; the more delicate the microbe, the less it takes to kill it off. If we don't want these old-timers...er...microbes around, we can change the chemical and physical conditions of the environment, erecting barriers that block them and increasing the edible life of a food.
*There's a pesky class of microbes that thrive in anaerobic (oxygen-free) conditions. Clostridium botulinum is one of the deadliest, and it loves low-oxygen, low-acid environments. Botulinum toxins can kill you. In a later article, we'll talk about how to keep them away with the help of acid—because no one should ever have to die because someone chose to ignore science!
There are several approaches we can use to do this, often in combination. Pickling, for instance, is about creating a high-acid solution—too high for microbes, but still tasty for us. You can pickle strawberries, especially underripe ones, but it's not the most common approach.
Pressure canning, meanwhile, is about raising temperatures to a point so high that nothing will survive. Sure, we could expose our strawberry harvest to the extreme heat of a pressure canner, but to what end? The 240°F (116°C) temperature would kill any and all microbes, but it'd also turn the strawberries into a jar of overcooked mush. It'd be like launching a nuclear bomb when a BB gun would have done the job. Freezing foods is on the opposite end of the temperature spectrum, as extreme cold prevents microbial growth. If you have the freezer space, that's certainly an option for keeping an abundance of ripe strawberries.
Gravlax relies on salt and sugar to lightly cure salmon. It's not enough for long-term preservation, but the salt and sugar lower the fish's water activity enough to buy you a few extra days of freshness.We'll discuss acids and temperature in future articles on the science of preservation, but today we're interested in yet another essential method: reducing the available water in the food. Any time a recipe involves preserving a food using lots of salt, sugar, and/or dehydration, it falls into this category. Salt-cured meats and fish, fruits poached in sugary syrups, jams, jellies, and dehydrated snacks like jerky and fruit leather all operate under the same basic principle: drive off or tie up enough of the available water in a food to make it inhospitable to microbes.
What Is Water Activity?All living matter is an assemblage of cells, and those cells are made from molecules. Those molecules are made of elements, and each element is built from atoms. Fruits, vegetables, and meats are constructed primarily from the elements carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, which are mostly arranged into molecules of water, carbohydrates, protein, and fibers. Of course, you don't need to know the exact chemical makeup of every single thing you eat to be able to prepare it appropriately; for now, the important thing to keep in mind is that every food contains water.
From a food safety standpoint, though, what matters most is not the absolute water content of a food, but its water activity. The technical definition of "water activity" quickly gets us into scientific-formula territory, so for our purposes, we can think of it more simply as the amount of water that's available to a molecule—and that includes all the molecules that make up a living organism. Since all organisms need water to live, we can prevent them from contaminating our food by reducing the amount of water that's available to them—that is, by reducing the food's water activity.
Think of it this way: Imagine that all the water molecules in a piece of food are just people in a room. And then think of a microbial pathogen as a really annoying guy who's always trying to get into the room and make trouble. One solution would be to get as many people out of the room as possible before the annoying guy arrives; that, in essence, is dehydration. With fewer people in the room, he has fewer people to bother. But let's say that, for a variety of reasons, it's not possible (or desirable) for every last one of those people to leave before the guy comes in. In that case, we need another strategy. The people in the room could, for example, occupy themselves—perhaps by putting on headphones to listen to music, or reading a book. They'd be busy, and therefore unavailable to the annoying guy. He'd eventually die of boredom, or wander off in search of another room full of more available people.
The key thing to understand is that the room had people in it the whole time, just as food always has some amount of water in it. They just weren't available to the annoying guy. But, of course, this only works if there are enough books and headphones in the room for everyone to use.
The question, then, is what the book and headphone equivalents are in the world of food. There are many potential ones, but two of the most powerful are salt and sugar. Add either (or both) of them to the food and they'll bond with the water molecules, tying them up and making them unavailable to any microbes that come around looking for a nice place to stay. Add enough salt and sugar, and there won't be sufficient water molecules available for the microbes to survive, even though the food still contains plenty of water.
From a chemical perspective, it's helpful to think of this riddle: When is water not really water? When it's salt water.
Strawberry Bonds: Reducing Water ActivitySugar molecules bond with the water in the strawberries to form a syrup and lower the fruit's water activity.Let's get back to our strawberries. Thus far, we know that we want to reduce the water activity of the strawberries enough to make a microbe's survival damned hard. But how much is enough? Measuring water activity in a food requires complex and expensive laboratory equipment that most of us don't have.** For most of us, the best we can do is rely on tested recipes or, even better, formulas that can help ensure our strawberries are in the safety zone.
** Scientists have methods for measuring water activity, which they express as a value (aw). Pure water has an aw of 1.0. The ideal target for preservation is a water activity of 0.85 to 0.80 (aw). But, again, you don't need to know how to measure or calculate this as long as you have a good recipe to follow.
If we were to simply cover our strawberries in sugar, the berries' water would begin to leach out, then combine with the sugar to form a syrup. The syrupy strawberries have just as much water as the berries did before the sugar was added, but their water activity has been reduced, all thanks to the sugar molecules bonding with the water molecules. That alone, a process cooks call maceration, buys you a few more days of usability.
Add heat to the sugar-covered strawberries and the water activity is reduced even further through evaporation (and, as a result, dehydration), buying you even more time. Most preserved foods rely on such combinations of chemical and physical barriers to ensure no pathogens can grow. Even the simple act of sealing the sugared and cooked strawberries in a clean glass jar, then placing them in the fridge, is a line of defense—one more wall that makes it difficult for ambient microbes to move in.
But we want to take our preservation a step further by making jam, which will get us even more usable time out of those strawberries.
Preservation in Action: Strawberry JamFlex Your PectinsStrawberries and sugar alone aren't enough to make jam. You need enough pectin, a natural fruit fiber, for the jam to thicken properly.We've finally made it to the fun part of food preservation, where we'll master water activity by actually making some strawberry jam.
In our above example, we tossed fresh strawberries with sugar, then cooked the two together. One might assume that we made jam during that process, but we didn't. While definitions can vary, most would agree that for jam to be jam, it can't just be cooked fruit in a sugar syrup. It requires a thickener called pectin, a natural fiber in fruits and vegetables that keeps the outer peel or skin firm and intact.
Some fruits, like apples and oranges, have more pectin; some, like strawberries and raspberries, have less. Strawberries, which have very little pectin, will never set into a thick jam on their own—at best, they'll cook to a thickened syrup. Old European methods of jam-making resolve low pectin levels in a berry jam by tossing an apple, quince, or orange into the mix. Some old recipes don't even say to do this, as it was just assumed that a home cook would know as much.
Today, we can add either homemade pectin (super-thick apple jelly, for instance) or commercial pectin to our strawberry/sugar mixture to account for its absence in low-pectin fruits like strawberries. Commercial pectin is derived from citrus peels and refined into a powder, and it comes in a couple of different forms.
A "regular" pectin is chemically designed to thicken when combined with heat and sugar. A "low-sugar" pectin undergoes additional refinement to work with lower amounts of sugar. Low-sugar pectins also increase the overall acidity of a jam, which erects yet another barrier to microbial growth. They usually contain a small amount of dextrose, which is a hyper-absorptive sugar, and sodium citrate, an acidifier. Using it requires a catalyst, in the form of an acid (from lemon juice) or calcium water. Regular pectin requires no additional catalyst.
I love low-sugar pectin, especially the Ball and Sure-Jell brands. It allows flexibility with the type and amount of sugars used. (This includes fruit juices and the artificial sweetener Splenda.) Purists may balk at the idea of adding dextrose and sodium citrate to a jam, but it's the dextrose that ensures sufficiently reduced water activity, even with lower levels of sugar in the recipe as a whole.
One word of warning: The Pomona's brand of low-sugar pectin works a little differently from Ball and Sure-Jell, relying on calcium water to activate the pectin with little to no additional sugar. The method of incorporating it into a jam is different from other low-sugar pectins, so you can't easily substitute it unless you know how. Even more importantly, Pomona's doesn't really reduce the water activity to a safe level so much as it acidifies the jam. Personally, I don't use Pomona's Pectin because, quite frankly, it makes me nervous. Jam is safely preserved only once we've adequately reduced the water activity; acidification alone doesn't do it.
Ready...Set...Many old-school jam recipes require cooking the fruit-and-sugar mixture for a prolonged period of time at 220°F (104°C). This is meant to do two things: reach an 80% water activity (the point at which water activity is reduced enough to prohibit pathogen growth) and get the jam to jell sufficiently. (Candy-makers will recognize that 220°F temperature as just below the "thread" stage.) This is the method used in many European recipes. Here's what's happening: Sugar bonds with the fruit's water molecules, reducing the water activity, while heat evaporates more of the water, further reducing the water activity and causing sugar and carbon molecules to re-chain into tight bunches, which results in thickening. Achieving and maintaining the ideal 220°F temperature requires vigilance and patience. It's a putzy job of stirring, adjusting heat, waiting, and repeating. Those who do use this method should use caution—if you allow your mixture to overheat, the batch can quickly transform into something other than jam. It might turn into candy, or it could just scorch and burn.
The dextrose in commercial pectin, whether regular or low-sugar, provides a scientifically sound shortcut that allows you to avoid that whole process. When you add pectin to your fruit-and-sugar mixture, that dextrose kicks in to rapidly bond with available water molecules, helping you reach your desired water activity almost immediately—no need to cook the jam for a long time to get there. Bringing the mixture to a hard, rolling boil for one minute does the trick and is much easier than the method required if you don't use a commercial pectin.
How do you know if you've got it right? How can you tell if your jam is set and not just syrup? You're looking for a consistency at room temperature that is, in a word, gelatinous. A good jam set, as it's called, will remain intact when scooped, but can also be spread thinly, without seeming watery. It shouldn't have any lumps, save for the tasty pieces of fruit, nor should it be so thick that you can stand a knife up in the jar.
Because fruits contain varying amounts of sugar and pectin from one batch to the next, the set may differ between batches, even when you're using commercial pectin. And that's okay. The beauty of homemade jams is the subtle differences that exist between batches and cooks. Homemade jams have—dare I say it?—a terroir, like wines. The wild summer strawberries of northern Minnesota will taste somewhat different from those in Grandma's Alabama berry patch. The jams made from those berries will reflect their unique geographic and territorial markers.
A majority of the frantic phone calls I get from novice jam-makers communicate variations on "My jarred jam didn't set! Now what?" The solution is to figure out if the jam is set before you pour it into jars or containers. I use what we've dubbed the "Moses Test," because your goal is to "part the sea": Take a teaspoon of the hot cooked jam out of the pot, and place it on a small dish. Let it completely cool—like, seriously cool, to room temperature. Five minutes is good. You can use that time to prepare your jars or containers. Now run your finger through the middle of the splotch of jam. Do the edges run back together to the middle? If they don't, then you've successfully parted the sea, and your jam is set.
Formula OneOnce you understand the jam formula, you can safely invent your own recipe.We now have the key ingredients for our strawberry jam: strawberries, sugar, pectin, and lemon juice (if you're using low-sugar pectin). The cool thing is that once we learn a very basic formula—and because we understand the science behind water activity and preservation—we can break free of any specific recipe.
What's the formula? For a strawberry jam using regular pectin: 4 cups strawberries + 4 cups sugar + 1/3 cup pectin. For a strawberry jam made with low-sugar pectin: 4 cups strawberries + 2 cups sugar + 2 tablespoons lemon juice + 1/3 cup low-sugar pectin. In fact, that's not just the master formula for strawberry jam; that's the master formula for most jams. Four cups of almost any fruit, when combined with sugar and pectin (again, plus the lemon juice, if you're using low-sugar pectin), will, in the vast majority of cases, yield a beautiful jam. Sure, there are some exceptions here and there, and you can go too far out of bounds in an attempt to be wildly experimental, but for the most part, this formula works. The variations in natural sugar and pectin content from one fruit to the next are slight enough that the overarching ratio will still lead you to success.
Since we know what each of these ingredients is doing to the other, we can swap and change them around. Mix in oranges. Or ginger beer. Or red wine. Don't want to use white sugar? Use brown sugar. Or maple syrup. Or hickory syrup. Or Splenda (but only if using low-sugar pectin, since you'll need the added dextrose to make up for the missing sugar). As long as you keep the ratios of the formula intact, you can add herbs, spices, and other flavorings without affecting your overall success in preserving the strawberries as a jam. How best to create your signature strawberry jam? Using the four cups of berries as the base measurement, make your substitutions accordingly—say, three cups of strawberries plus one cup of ginger beer. Or two cups of strawberries and two cups of wine. It won't affect the result if your substitutions are liquid or solid. Some added ingredients, like candied ginger, may already be "sugared." In those cases, you have a choice—proceed with the formula for a sweeter batch, or reduce the total sugar amount to compensate. The water activity will still be sufficiently reduced because the sugar is still there, just coming from a different source.
In the classes that I teach, this is the point when I see faces light up. They're now thinking of all the tasty and silly and personal combinations they can create. This is the alchemy of jam-making. Did you know that strawberry and horseradish complement each other magnificently? The cooking process tempers the horseradish, and, when married to the sugar and strawberries, it produces a jam that will change every roast beef sandwich in your life. Using chopped candied ginger and candied orange peels together increases the sweetness, but adds a lovely toothsome quality to strawberry jam. If you follow your imagination and palate, the possibilities are endless. If you don't own it already, check out The Flavor Bible by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg. It's a nerd's food book—an encyclopedic listing of every food and which other ingredients will complement it. It's a great resource for the kitchen alchemist.
Jam SessionThe final step is to ask yourself what your goals are for your preserves. Do you need the jam to last for months on end in a cellar? Then you'll need to heat-process it on top of everything else. If you merely want to store the jam in the fridge for several weeks, you can skip that step.
Heat-processing the jam, a technique I'll cover in more depth in a later article, involves submerging a lidded jar into a bath of boiling water (or placing it in a pressure canner) for a prescribed amount of time, during which any remaining oxygen is driven out and the jars will be sealed against new microbes. Like I said at the beginning, many preserved foods call on a combination of microbial barriers for guaranteed success.
At this point, you're ready to erect that first barrier—low water activity—with the help of salt, sugar, and dehydration. It's a key tool in the multipronged approach to blocking microbes from our food and keeping it edible for much, much longer.
Serious Eats / Getty ImagesA third of my tiny windowsill herb garden is devoted to growing various types of basil. Even when I’m not cooking with the herbs, I often rub their fresh leaves between my fingers to release their powerful aromas, which range from sweet to peppery. Some varieties, like holy basil, have a dank, musky smell reminiscent of marijuana.
Do I need multiple basil varieties in my kitchen? I certainly think so, but even if you don’t want to devote time and space cultivating your own, it’s worth knowing when to use the two most common types of sweet basil and why. Most commercially grown basil in the U.S. comes from Hawaii, where an estimated 60% of the 12 million-pound annual harvest is sweet Italian basil, the most popular variety in western supermarkets. Hop over to an Asian supermarket, and sweet Thai basil, which accounts for the remaining 40% of the crop, reigns supreme.
To learn about the differences between the two basil varieties, I spoke with Ann Ziata, a chef at the Institute of Culinary Education's New York City campus, and Jet Tila, chef and author of 101 Thai Dishes You Need to Cook Before You Die.
What's the Difference Between Italian Basil and Thai Basil?Sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum) is native to India and Asia and is a part of the Lamiaceae family, which includes mint. The herb grows quickly and easily in warm, sunny weather, and thrives equally well in gardens and containers. Like most edible plants, their flavors vary depending on the variety. Ziata tells me that while Thai basil and Italian basil are both sweet basils that share similar characteristics, they're still very different herbs.
Italian basil.Getty Images / fotogiuntaItalian basil (a.k.a. sweet basil) is lightly sweet with a hint of black pepper. The leaves are wide, with some large enough to fit in the palm of your hand, but they're also thinner and more delicate than Thai basil leaves, and are prone to bruising. This type of basil is used widely in the Mediterranean, where it features heavily in Italian, Provençal, Greek, Turkish, and Lebanese cuisines.
Thai basil.Getty Images / fotogiuntaThai basil has a strong, savory licorice flavor. It has purple stems and smaller, narrower green leaves that are thick and hold up well during cooking. It’s an integral ingredient to Southeast Asian cuisines, such as Thai, Vietnamese, Laotian, Cambodian.
What Are the Best Uses for Italian vs. Thai Basil?“Both go heavenly with summer vegetables like eggplant, peppers, and yellow squash,” says Ziata. (Provençal ratatouille, anyone?) She recommends pairing Thai basil with coconut, galangal, ginger, lemongrass, scallions, and cilantro, and notes that Italian basil goes particularly well with oregano, balsamic, lemon, pine nuts, olives, and soft cheeses.
Ziata says Italian basil’s rounded flavor is the ultimate sidekick to tomatoes and mozzarella—fresh in a caprese, simmered in tomato sauce, or scattered atop Neapolitan pizza. A particularly well-known cultivar from Italy is Genovese basil, which is famous for its use in pesto alla Genovese; it also goes wonderfully with garlic and white beans.
Because Italian basil is very delicate and will wilt quickly when cut or cooked, it’s generally sliced or torn into pieces, then added towards the end of cooking. Thai basil, on the other hand, is a much sturdier herb that can withstand the heat of cooking without compromising texture or appearance.
Thai basil’s resilience is matched with a pungent, aromatic flavor that goes well with other bold ingredients, says Ziata, who enjoys using the herb in a stir-fry with ginger, garlic, and chilies.
There are two main ways to enjoy Thai basil, says Tila. “It's either dropped into hot dishes, like pad kee mao, curries, or pho, where the essential oils permeate the dish, or it's eaten raw in a salad or parcel, like gỏi cuốn (summer rolls), for a burst of herbaceousness.”
Tila also recommends using the purple flowers of the Thai basil if they’re still attached to your stems. “They look nice on a fresh Vietnamese rice paper roll platter or as a garnish,” he says. “And they taste like concentrated Thai basil, especially that anise flavor, with a little more bitterness.”
Ziata says both basils are also fantastic herbs to pair with summer fruits like strawberries and peaches. To add a burst of refreshing, herbaceous flavor to desserts like strawberry sorbet or peach melba, top them with a chiffonade of fresh basil.
Can You Substitute Italian Basil for Thai Basil, and Vice Versa?If you can’t get your hands on Thai basil, Tila says you can use Italian basil, but the dish will lack that distinctive licorice kick: “Italian basil still offers a mild anise note, and I would rather somebody get part-way there than just throw up their hands and not make the recipe.”
Conversely, using Thai basil in place of Italian basil may be too jarring, as Thai cuisine often has the bold flavors of fish sauce, chiles, and acid to help balance Thai basil’s robustness, says Tila. Italian food, on the other hand, has tomato, cheese, salt, and a little acid—mellow ingredients that would likely be overpowered by Thai basil.
“I personally do not recommend substituting one for the other,” says Ziata. “They are both very unique and have differing flavors, textures, and intensities.”
The TakeawayWhile both Italian and Thai basil bring unique flavors to the kitchen, they are best suited for different culinary applications. Italian basil, with its mild and sweet notes, is a staple in Mediterranean dishes—ideal for fresh caprese salads, pesto, and pasta sauces. On the other hand, Thai basil, with its robust anise and licorice flavors, shines in Southeast Asian cuisines, and is perfect for stir-fries, curries, and pho.
While substitutions can be made in a pinch, the distinctive characteristics of each type of basil make them irreplaceable in their respective culinary contexts. For the best results, seek out fresh Thai basil when your recipe calls for it, but don't hesitate to experiment and adjust seasonings if you must substitute.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonI haven't been on a plane or even so much as left the San Francisco Bay Area in I don't know how long. Safe to say, I'm looooong overdue for a much-needed vacation. But until then, traveling through food is the next best thing to buying a plane ticket—which is why I love exploring recipes that take me to far-off places like the Caribbean Islands. I can experience the endorphin-producing smoky heat of Scotch bonnet peppers and allspice of jerk pork from Jamaica; the zesty citrus kick of Cuban-style pollo de plancha; and melt-in-your-mouth tender Puerto Rican pernil—served with a healthy portion of fried plantains, of course. My tastebuds will be too busy enjoying the tropical vibes to notice the lack of island breeze. So, if you're itching to jet off to the Caribbean Islands but can't afford the time or the flight, give some of these 19 Caribbean recipes a try.
Jamaican Jerk PorkSerious Eats / Lorena MassoGreat Jamaican jerk pork starts with an intensely spicy and salty marinade, complete with allspice (a.k.a. pimento berries) and Scotch bonnet peppers. But as with any true Jamaican jerk meat, you'll need more than just seasoning or marinade. The dish requires slow smoking and roasting over an open flame—always with pimento wood and leaves indigenous to the Caribbean Islands. Here, we reduce the marinade to a thick consistency to better cling to the pork, top the pork with green pimento leaves to keep it moist, and briefly soak the pimento wood chips to create a smoky flavor.
Jamaican Curry ChickenSerious Eats / Karina MatalonAlthough curried goat is undoubtedly the more celebrated Jamaican dish, curried chicken is equally delicious—not to mention more accessible. The addition of coconut milk yields a creamier, richer sauce that provides another layer of flavor to the spice blend. Simmering the Scotch bonnet pepper whole adds flavor without the searing heat.
Jamaican OxtailSerious Eats / Karina MatalonVying for the most popular dish against curried goat is this comforting stew of long-simmered, fall-off-the-bone tender oxtail. Butter or broad beans and flour dumplings (called "spinners") thicken the gravy, giving the stew both body and texture—making it truly a one-pot wonder.
Jamaican Pan ChickenSerious Eats / Karina MatalonMarinated with fragrant island spices like Scotch bonnet pepper, scallion, and thyme, pan chicken is hot, smoky, and tender—the ultimate Jamaican fast food. For this home version of the popular nighttime street fare, marinade is rubbed under the chicken skin to ensure optimum penetration of seasoning and flavor. Cooking the chicken away from direct heat allows the meat to cook through before finishing it over the embers for a satisfying smoky char and burnished skin.
Jamaican Escovitch FishSerious Eats / Karina MatalonFish for breakfast is common in the Caribbean. Escovitch fish, in particular, is not just a Jamaican breakfast staple, but is eaten all day. The fish is lightly dredged in flour, fried, and covered in a brine-like escovitch sauce made with cane vinegar, Scotch bonnet pepper, pimento berries (allspice), onion, chayote, and carrot. The vegetables are simmered briefly so they retain a bit of their crunch.
Guyanese PepperpotSerious Eats / Liz VoltzWhile you can find pepperpot throughout the Caribbean—in Trinidad and Tobago, Antiqua, and Jamaica—Guyanese pepperpot is unique, both in appearance and preparation. The national dish of Guyana is distinguished by its intensely dark color from the inclusion of a browning agent called cassareep, a thick black liquid with the consistency of molasses that is ubiquitous in every Guyanese pantry. A combination of cow foot, oxtail, and bone-in chuck is braised and infused with cinnamon, clove, thyme, nutmeg, and wiri wiri peppers to create a collagen-rich stew that's sweet, savory, and spicy.
Cuban-Style Pollo a la Plancha (Marinated and Griddled Chicken)Serious Eats / Aaron HutchersonAlthough pollo a la plancha is a classic dish in many Latin American countries, the Cuban version requires marinating the chicken in a mixture of garlic, sour orange juice, cumin, and oregano (and in the city of Santiago de Cuba, they include allspice); you can substitute an equal mix of orange and lime juices if you can't find sour orange. Thirty minutes in the marinade is all it takes, then it's just a matter of browning the chicken and onions in a skillet. Serve it with Cuban rice and black beans for a complete island meal.
Slow-Cooker Puerto Rican Pernil With Pique CriolloSerious Eats / Jennifer OlveraIn this slow-cooker version of pernil—the Puerto Rican mainstay—cross-hatch-marked pork shoulder is massaged with a salty, garlicky oregano rub and then lingers in the slow cooker for 18 hours until browned and fork-tender. The tropical vibe of the vinegar-based pique criollo—a blend of peppers, garlic, pineapple, and herbs—adds a pop of acidity that enlivens the meat.
Arroz con Gandules (Puerto Rican Rice With Pigeon Peas)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikArroz con gandules or rice with pigeon peas is considered to be the national dish of Puerto Rico, commonly served during the holiday season with pernil (slow-roasted pork) and pasteles (meat and root vegetable tamales). Whether made in large or small quantities, sofrito plays an integral role in flavoring this dish. The aromatic seasoning base made of peppers, onions, garlic, and herbs is the foundation for the tender rice studded with smoked ham chunks, briny capers, pimentos, and pigeon peas.
Cuban PicadilloSerious Eats / Diana ChistrugaThis easy-to-make Cuban comfort food classic is deceptively simple but big on flavor. The layers of flavor begin with a sofrito and finish with briny green olives, capers, and raisins that add brightness and texture. Serve it with white rice and black beans.
Ropa ViejaSerious Eats / Vicky WasikDaniel's one-pot version of this Cuban dish—complete with tender shredded beef in a sauce with tomatoes, onions, and peppers—doubles down on flavor without straying too far from the classic. By not poaching the beef separately and searing it in a Dutch oven instead, you save on time, effort, and cleanup, and end up with highly flavorful meat and vegetables smothered in rich beefy sauce.
Salt Fish Fritters (Stamp and Go)Serious Eats / Karina MatalonSalt fish is a staple of Jamaican cuisine, with ackee and saltfish being the national dish. Salt fish fritters are another part of the Jamaican daily diet. Unlike the salt fritters found on other Caribbean Islands, the Jamaican version is made without baking powder, which produces a flatter shape and crisper edges. As with most Jamaican specialties, these fritters come with a healthy kick from Scotch bonnets.
Curried Jamaican Beef PattiesSerious Eats / Robby LozanoThese flaky pastries—loaded with deeply seasoned ground beef, onions, garlic, and Scotch bonnet peppers—are ubiquitous throughout Jamaica. They're found in ramshackle roadside stands, neighborhood restaurants, and even resorts. One bite just may magically transport you to a warm sunny beach!
Jamaican Pepper ShrimpSerious Eats / Jillian AtkinsonAnother popular roadside Jamaican roadside snack that's easy to make at home are these shrimp stewed in a flavorful broth loaded with onion, garlic, allspice, thyme, and plenty of Scotch bonnets. They get their signature color from annatto powder and annatto seed oil. You can adjust the level of spiciness by either finely chopping the peppers and seeds to intensify the heat, removing the seeds for less heat, or leaving the peppers whole for even less heat.
Festival (Jamaican Fried Cornmeal Dumplings)Serious Eats / Karina MatalonDistinguished by their elongated shape, Festival are fried cornmeal dumplings with a crunchy exterior balanced by a moist, slightly sweet dough that's perfect to accompany various spicy, savory dishes, or even as an irresistible snack. The key to preventing them from getting too greasy is to fry them in small batches to avoid lowering the oil's temperature.
Maduros (Fried Ripe Plantains) with Mint MojoSerious Eats / Fred HardyYou can't have Caribbean food without a side of fried plantain, and honestly, why would you? I was hooked from the first bite at a Puerto Rican restaurant. Kenji's method of shallow-frying 3/4" thick slices at moderate heat first, then lowering the temperature during the final stage allows the sugars plenty of time to caramelize and get extra sweet without giving the plantain a chance to dry out.
Coquito (Puerto Rican Coconut Eggnog)Serious EatsCoquito is Puerto Rico's answer to eggnog, with a tropical twist in the form of coconut milk. Sweetened condensed milk replaces the sugar in traditional eggnog, while evaporated milk adds body. Fresh ginger provides a kiss of heat and, of course, there's the white rum, which you can add according to taste and tolerance level.
Jamaican Sorrel (Hibiscus) DrinkSerious Eats / Vicky WasikIf you're looking for a festive non-alcoholic beverage option for the holidays, this sweet, gingery, wine-hued Jamaican drink is an ideal holiday drink. Jamaican sorrel or hibiscus is first hydrated with a quick boil, then allowed a long cold steep for full flavor and color extraction. Freshly grated ginger cuts through the acidity and sharpness of the sorrel while cloves and allspice add warmth. You can dial the sweetness up or down with simple syrup.
Cuba Libre CocktailSerious Eats / Vicky WasikIf you've only ever ordered a simple rum and Coke, you're missing out...on lime, that is. Invented just after the Spanish-American War in Cuba, the Cuba Libre marries fresh lime juice with rum and Coke for a perfectly balanced, refreshing, not-too-sweet cocktail. You can try muddling the shell of half a lime in a serving glass to extract some of the citrus oils from the skin, which will add a bit of extra complexity to the drink.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleSweet, snappy shrimp swimming in a spicy chutney made of chiles, lots of cilantro, and ample garlic is one of my favorite ways to enjoy the crustaceans, and it’s fairly simple to make. The preparation is my own spin on one of my maternal grandmother's very best recipes, in which I swap the chicken she used with shrimp.
I grew up with her Indian cooking and I loved everything she made, whether family recipes she learned from her mother and mother-in-law or the recipes she picked up in her travels around India as an army wife. Naturally I looked forward to eating my favorite snacks and meals every summer when we visited: from her guava toffee and coconut pastries to her delectable tomato-coconut soup. One of my favorites was her cilantro chutney chicken; breast meat marinated in a homemade cilantro chutney, and gently simmered until the chicken was tender and the chutney cooked to a sauce, ideal for laddling over big bowls of rice or scooping up with bread.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleYears later in California in 2007, when I started my own catering company called Un-Curry, I reimagined my grandmother’s cilantro chicken dish, replacing the chicken with shrimp. In my opinion, the shrimp are the perfect vehicle for the fragrant, garlicky cilantro chutney, a fact supported by the recipe's popularity at my catering company and among friends when I serve it at dinner parties.
The result is an easy weeknight recipe that comes together quickly aside from a brief hands-off marination period in a portion of the chutney (and honestly, if you're in a rush, you can shave some time off the marination without much trouble).
Once marinated, the shrimp are quickly seared to develop flavor and then simmered with the remaining sauce until plump and tender. It's a complete meal when served over rice, but can also be prepared as an hors d'oeuvres with the chutney as a dipping sauce on the side (see instructions at the bottom of this headnote for how to do that).
The recipe is simple, but there are a few key technical points worth discussing.
Key Techniques for a Smooth Sauce and Juicy ShrimpUse a high-powered blender for the cilantro chutney. In Maharashtra and some other Indian states, a thick, flat, rough-hewn grinding stone and pestle (called paata-varvanta in Marathi) were traditionally used to produce chutneys and pastes.
Placed on the floor where cooking was often done, or on a counter, the long stone pestle was rolled back and forth horizontally over the ingredients placed on the stone. A small addition of liquid like water, tamarind paste, or citrus juice could help the grinding process (if called for in the recipe), but those liquid additions were minimal, keeping flavors concentrated and not diluted.
This can be challenging when making a chutney or paste in a blender, which often requires more liquid to get the ingredients moving around the spinning blade. One solution to this is to add the needed liquid and then cook it down afterwards to remove the excess, but that leads to dull, overcooked flavors. The best approach that I've found is to use a high-powered blender, like a Vitamix, which will chop the ingredients efficiently without requiring water that would dilute and mute flavors.
For juicier shrimp, brine with salt and baking soda. Tossing the shrimp with salt and baking soda briefly before cooking greatly enhances the shrimp’s flavor and seasoning; brining with salt helps keep the shrimp nice and moist as they cook, while alkaline baking soda delivers a crisp, firm texture.
Here, I toss the shrimp with the salt and baking soda and a portion of the chutney to let it brine briefly. In my tests, I found the shrimp to be most flavorful and with the best texture when brined for about 45 minutes. Just make sure to refrigerate them during this time.
Gently Simmer the shrimp until just pink. There are few things worse than rubbery, overcooked shrimp. Yes, brining will help retain the shrimp’s juicy texture, but the best way to keep the shrimp in perfect form is to simply not overcook them. It’s a matter of knowing when to stop: as soon as they've lost their translucency and developed that hallmark pink hue. The cooking time from start to finish is just a few minutes, so make sure to stay close and monitor the pot.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleHow to Convert This Recipe for Hors d'OeuvresWhen I created this recipe years ago for my catering company, I originally served it as an appetizer. It was easy to prep and cook for events, and clients love the aromatic, spicy one-bite appeal.
To serve the shrimp in this way, sear them in a 12-inch skillet (do this in at least two batches to prevent overcrowding) until fully cooked; do not add the remaining chutney for simmering. Instead serve the seared shrimp with the reserved chutney on the side as a dipping sauce.
For the cilantro chutney and marinating the shrimp: In a blender, add 1/3 of the cilantro along with the garlic, chiles, 3 tablespoons lime juice, salt, and 1/4 cup water and blend, scraping down the sides of blender as needed, into a fine, soft paste, 30 to 60 seconds. Add remaining 2/3 of the cilantro, 1/4 cup water, remaining 3 tablespoons lime juice, cumin seeds, and sugar, and blend until smooth, scraping down the sides of the blender jar as needed, about 60 seconds. Season to taste with salt. The chutney should be smooth.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleIn a medium bowl, whisk together 3/4 cup (180ml) chutney with the baking soda; add the shrimp and toss until well coated. Refrigerate for 45 to 60 minutes. Store the remaining (about 1 cup) chutney separately. Before washing the blender, pour the remaining 1/4 cup water into it and briefly pulse to collect any remaining chutney in the jar. Add this to the reserved chutney.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleFor cooking the shrimp: In a large sautée pan, heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add the cumin seeds and cook until they pop and are fragrant, about 10 seconds, then immediately stir in onion and turmeric. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion begins to soften, 3 to 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleUsing a slotted spoon, remove shrimp from marinade, letting excess marinade drip back into the bowl, and add to the pan in one even layer. Cook for 30 seconds without moving, then stir and continue to cook until beginning to brown, 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleReduce heat to low, and pour in the remaining reserved cilantro chutney mixture. Stir to combine and bring to a boil over medium heat while stirring occasionally; reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until the shrimp are just pink and opaque, about 1 minute longer. Serve immediately over steamed Basmati white rice.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleSpecial EquipmentHigh-powered blender, large sautée pan
Make-Ahead and StorageThe chutney can be refrigerated in an airtight container for 5 days or frozen for 4 weeks. When freezing the chutney, I like to use an ice cube tray to store it in portions. That way you can remove only as much chutney as you need.
Serious Eats / Getty Images- Rainer LesniewskiWe've all been there: It's a swelteringly hot day and you've been sweating like a dog, so when it comes to mealtime, you instinctively reach for the obvious.
A steaming hot bowl of soup.
If that scenario seems bizarre to you, think again: Around the world, the natural thing to do when it's hot out is to eat something hot (as in temperature, though a little spicy heat doesn't hurt either).
In Vietnam, it's a bowl of pho. On the Korean Peninsula, the cure for heat is any number of piping hot broths. In Mexico, hot and spicy dishes like tamales are the answer to hunger pangs even if there's a blazing sun outside. And in China, "refreshing" means a cup of hot water.
To an American, even a well-traveled one with a daring palate, it can all seem ... odd.
"What sticks out to me is the insistence, in many corners of Asia, on drinking very hot water whatever the weather," says Matt Gross, former Bon Appetit editor, New York Times Frugal Traveler, and consultant for the Apple+ series Omnivore. "It’s done for historical and health reasons, and I kind of love it in the winter, when the heat gives [the water] a sweetness, but when summer temps hit the 90s I can’t quite handle it."
How Your Brain Affects Your PalateClinical psychologist and registered dietitian Supatra Tovar says that there are both psychological and physiological reasons why eating hot foods in the summer can make sense.
"Psychologically, cultural norms and traditions play a significant role," she says. "People may associate certain foods with comfort and familiarity, and these foods often transcend seasonal variations."
In other words, the mind can be a more powerful force than even the sun—and you might see evidence of that in the Chinese insistence on drinking hot water even on the hottest days.
In traditional Chinese medicine, maintaining a balance of yin and yang is considered key to keeping healthy. In particular, yang, associated with "hot" energy, is seen as critical to properly functioning internal organs, and hot water is seen as an important way to maintain that internal energy balance. That was reinforced in the 1930s, when the Nationalist government of China rolled out nationwide health campaigns that encouraged people to drink warm water, which was believed to be cleaner, instead of cold water. The communist government repeated this message with its own public health campaigns in the 1950s. These educational efforts were so successful that boiling water is a given almost anywhere you can find a water dispenser in China even today, as the idea that hot water's the healthy option has become internalized over generations of Chinese.
The general idea is the same in places like South Korea, where age-old sayings encourage people to fight the heat by eating hot foods, and basically anywhere else where it's considered normal. If a belief has been ingrained in a person by their culture from birth, then you're not going to shake it out of them just by pointing at a thermometer and giving them a disbelieving look like they just told you the Earth is flat. (It's not, for the record.)
Why Your Body Tells You to Eat Hot Foods in SummerBut there are actual, not-just-in-our-minds reasons to eat hot foods on hot days, as well.
"Physiologically, consuming hot foods can induce sweating, which is the body's natural cooling mechanism," Tovar says. "When you eat hot foods, your body's internal temperature rises, causing you to sweat. As the sweat evaporates, it cools the body down, helping to regulate your internal temperature in hot weather."
That's backed up by a leading neuroscientist who's published studies on thermoregulation — the body's mechanisms for keeping itself not too hot and not too cold. The scientist, who asked not to be quoted or named in this story, noted that hot foods would activate thermoreceptors in the mouth, triggering more of a response in the body to do what it does to lose heat, which is to sweat.
Indeed, a 2012 study published in the international physiology journal Acta Physiologica (and not one the scientist was involved with) found that participants who drank warm water and then undertook physical activity shed more heat than those who drank cold water, probably because the thermoreceptors in the stomach and esophagus told the body it didn't have to sweat as much when they were doused in an icy cold beverage, whereas quaffing warm water told them it was OK to sweat away.
But, you ask, wouldn't ingesting a big bowl of hot ramen actually raise your body temperature?
No, not really, the scientist says. Because the human body already contains a lot of fluids (nine gallons in an average woman, 11 gallons in an average man), one meal isn't going to appreciably change your core temperature. Think about it: If you have a full ice bath going, you're not going to turn it into a scorching stew just by dumping in a single kettle of boiling water.
What About Spicy Foods?Back to tricking those thermoreceptors: If you can deceive them with actualhot or cold foods and drinks, it stands to reason you could trick them with foods that aren't actually hot, too, right? That's what happens with spicy foods, which the receptors in your mouth scan as heat-hot.
"One of the truly cool things about chili peppers is how they trick your body into thinking it’s being burned” Gross says. "Their active chemical, capsaicin, bonds with a receptor in your body called TRPV1, which evolved to detect temperatures over 140°F. So when they come in contact, your brain reacts, sending signals to trigger cooldown mechanisms throughout your body—namely, flushing and sweating. There’s no damage going on, but your brain doesn’t know that! It’s just a happy coincidence, or an unhappy one, depending on how you feel about spice."
J. Kenji López-AltThe result?
"In cultures where spicy food is normal, it tends to be even more popular when temperatures rise," he says. "If you ask people why, they’ll often say that because chiles make you sweat, and sweating cools you off."
Why Do You Crave Cold Foods in Winter?But what about the other end of the spectrum, how some people like to eat cold foods when it's chilly out?
"Growing up in Colorado, particularly during the winters, I observed how ice cream was enjoyed year-round despite the cold temperatures," Tovar says. "Walking the streets of Breckenridge, it wasn’t uncommon to see people savoring ice cream cones even as they were bundled up in winter coats ... taking a break from the slopes to enjoy an ice cream cone or a cold beer. ... This experience highlighted how cultural and regional habits influence our food choices, irrespective of the weather. ... Psychologically, people may crave cold foods like ice cream due to their comforting and indulgent nature, providing a temporary escape from the harsh cold."
So, yes, cultural and psychological associations are just as strong when the mercury dips as when it rises. But, again, there are physiological factors at play here, too.
Rezel KealohaIt's been well-established both by common wisdom and science— and, let's face it, our eyes and mirrors—that winter weight gain is real. As with many animals, we've evolved to crave more foods, especially those that our body can store in our fat cells, as the sunlight fades away and the nights grow colder—after all, in nature, available foods grow scarce in winter, and our brains are still designed to plan on burning the energy stored in our fat cells to make it alive to spring. And the best kinds of foods to pad those cells? The fatty, sugary kinds, like—you guessed it, Chubby Hubby (or insert your own favorite).
"In colder weather, the body may crave higher-calorie foods rich in fats and sugars to generate more body heat and energy," Tovar says. "Ice cream, being high in both fats and sugars, fits this craving perfectly."
As for those ice-cold apres ski beers, alcohol makes you feel warmer by dilating your blood vessels, which means more warm blood hits your skin. In reality, though, that warmth is actually escaping your body and bringing down your core temperature, so it's not a real solution to the cold, though it can be a fun, albeit temporary, one—if done responsibly and while you're wearing clothing appropriate to the weather.
The TakeawaySo what's the ultimate takeaway here? Humans are a weird, quirky, self-contradictory bunch of animals, and we'll find the zaniest solutions to problems that aren't really problems. So, as long as you're not hurting yourself, go ahead and eat that blazing hot chile stew—or ice pop—for the August clambake. Wolf down that ice cream sundae—or pho—for New Year's. It's all good.
"As human beings, we often think we can outsmart nature—that we can live outside of it—and we are probably subconsciously trying to challenge our environment," Gross says. "'It’s snowing? Give me ice-cold vodka! It’s 99 degrees with 99% humidity? Bring on the Sichuan hot pot.'"
Photograph: Vicky WasikI know that in the canon of salmon-preparation methods, poaching is pretty far down most people's lists. Why, after all, would you choose to eat simmered fish when you can enjoy it with a beautiful seared crust courtesy of pan-roasting or grilling, or cured with salt and spices à la gravlax, or smoked, or broiled, or raw on a piece of sushi?
I actually think there are several good reasons for poaching. First, poaching produces one of the juiciest pieces of salmon imaginable, thanks to gentle cooking in a liquid medium. Second, it also leads to one of the most delicately flavored pieces of salmon possible, allowing you to appreciate the fish's true flavor, with little else covering it up. (This can be a problem if the salmon tastes like mud, common in poor-quality farmed fish.) Third, it's easy, requiring very little technical skill to do. And fourth, it's not prone to making your kitchen smell strongly of fish, the way pan-roasting or broiling can.
Poached salmon is great straight from the pot, but it's also great chilled and served as a light warm-weather dinner with a simple sauce, or shredded and mixed into spreadable rillettes. But the versatility of poaching doesn't end there: Thanks to its easy, clean flavor and gentle touch, it's one of the best cooking methods for salmon that you flake and mix into something, like the big, filling salad I'm sharing here.
I love all kinds of salad, but at home, hearty salads that function as entire meals are almost exclusively the kind that I make. The key is to load them with a good mixture of ingredients, including plenty of greens and/or other vegetables, at least one source of protein, and enough fat to leave you sated. That's what I was aiming for here, mixing together peppery arugula, plump cranberry beans, and tender pieces of salmon.
It's very easy to make. Start by cooking the beans, or pop open a few cans if you don't have time to deal with dried ones. Then poach the salmon fillet, which I like to do using a cold-start method. Unlike traditional poaching, in which the fish is lowered into simmering water, cold-start poaching calls for adding the salmon to the water while it's still cold, then gently bringing them both up to temperature together. It's best not to let the water reach a full simmer, since that's much more heat than the salmon needs—you'll get slightly tougher fish that way. If you have an instant-read thermometer, a good temperature for the water is about 170°F; if not, just below a simmer is fine.
As soon as the salmon hits about 115°F in the center, it'll be medium-rare, which is done enough for me. Then I remove it from the poaching water and let it chill briefly in the fridge.
Once that's all done, you can toss the salad together. I throw in some diced celery and fennel, along with a basic vinaigrette made with shallot, lemon juice, and olive oil. A small amount of minced dill adds an herbal touch. It's best to combine all the ingredients except the salmon first, and then gently mix the salmon in at the end. Otherwise, all that stirring will break up the flakes into little shreds; not the end of the world, but a little less attractive.
It may not be the most popular method, but the more I cook salmon with it, the more versatile I realize poaching is.
For the Beans (see note): In a large bowl, cover beans by at least 4 inches water and let soak overnight. The next day, drain, transfer beans to a large pot, and cover with at least 2 inches of fresh cold water. Add halved onion, garlic, 1 celery stalk, carrot, and 1 bay leaf to pot. Season with salt. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-high heat, then lower heat to maintain gentle simmer. Cook until beans are fully tender, about 45 minutes. (Bean cooking time will vary depending on age and exact type of bean; taste every 5 minutes until done.) Set aside to cool.
Meanwhile, combine salmon in a large saucepan with enough cold water to cover. Add 1 stalk celery, remaining 1 bay leaf, and lemon halves with their juice. Heat over medium heat until water registers 170°F on an instant-read thermometer (or until water is at just below a bare simmer, if you don't have a thermometer), then adjust heat to maintain temperature. Cook until salmon is 115 to 120°F in the center, about 20 minutes. (If you don't have a thermometer, salmon should flake easily when done.) Drain salmon, discard aromatics, and let cool in refrigerator.
Using your fingers, flake salmon into large pieces. In a large bowl, whisk together remaining 4 tablespoons lemon juice, olive oil, shallot, and dill. Season with salt and pepper. Add cooled and drained beans, diced celery, diced fennel, and arugula and toss well. Add salmon, season with salt and pepper, and toss gently to combine. Serve right away.
NotesOne pound of dried beans makes about 2 pounds 5 ounces cooked beans; three 15-ounce (425g) cans of cooked beans, drained, will yield slightly more than the required amount. If using canned beans, drain and rinse beans, and skip step 1 (and omit its ingredients).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezHow do I cut a peach? Mostly, I don't. When peaches reach their incomparable glory at the height of summer, I have one main way of eating them: over a sink, the juices cascading down my arm as all but the pit disappears into my mouth. But every once in a while there is justifiable cause to cut up a peach, say, for a fruit salad, galette, or cobbler.
This guide will show you how to slice and dice your peaches into whatever shape you desire. It should go without saying, these methods also work for nectarines, apricots, and plums; you will have to choose the cutting method depending on whether those fruits are freestone or clingstone, just as would a peach.
Freestone vs. Clingstone PeachesBefore I walk you through the steps for cutting up a peach, it's worth taking a moment to point out that there are two basic categories of peach that can impact how you cut it up: freestone and clingstone peaches. Most of the peaches I come across nowadays are freestone, which is the easier kind to deal with, but clingstones still exist, so it's good to be aware of them.
The difference between the two is exactly as the names suggest. Freestone peaches have pits that separate easily from the flesh, while clingstones will fight you every step of the way. This means that the method of cleaving the flesh off a peach changes depending on what kind of peaches you have. In the following guide, I'll walk you through the more common method with freestones. At the end, I'll show you how to tackle a clingstone peach.
If Working With Freestone Peaches:Halve the Peach: All peaches have a seam that runs from top to bottom, it's what makes them look like cute little butts. This seam is your guide to where to cut: You can either slice along the seam all the way down to the pit, spinning the peach as you go until you've fully circled the pit, or you can rotate the peach 90 degrees so that you're still cutting in the same pole-to-pole direction as the seam but perpendicular to it.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
The disadvantage of cutting along the seam is that once opened, peaches halved along the seam will have the pits lying flat in one of the halves, and they will be slightly harder to grab and pop out, but the resultant halves will have wider, more shallow depressions left by the pit, which are better for stuffing. They will also yield more symmetrical peach halves. If, on the other hand, you slice from pole to pole 90 degrees off from the seam, the pit will be easier to grasp, as its edge will be sticking out, but you'll have two asymmetrical halves, one with the seam on it and one without. You choose which appeals to you more. I like symmetry.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNow twist the two halves you've cut. They should pop apart, with one side still holding the pit and the other not. If you're unlucky, you'll get one of those peaches where the pit itself splits in half, but it's not that big of a deal.
Remove Pit: Carefully pop the pit out of the whichever half it's embedded in. Be careful not to damage the flesh too much as you pry it out.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTrim Out Any Tough Bits: The pit will sometimes leave behind some tough bits, so if you see any, cut them out with a paring knife.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSlice or Dice: If slicing, set each peach half cut side down on a work surface. If you want slices of even thickness, make a series of vertical cuts straight down to the cutting board of whatever width you need. If you want wedges, you can make radial cuts.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf dicing, slice each peach half into planks of whatever size dice you need, then stack the planks and make perpendicular cuts, first one way, then the other, to create the dice.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf Working With Clingstone Peaches:Since clingstone pits don't come free from the flesh, you can end up crushing ripe peach flesh while attempting to twist apart the peach halves as described above. Instead, you can simply cut off the flesh in lobes around the pit.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIt helps to visualize the shape of the pit inside the a peach for this: The pit is almond-shaped (this is not a coincidence, almonds come from the pits of a very close peach relative), which means it's oblong. To cut around the pit as closely as possible, you want to angle your knife almost as if you're cutting a diamond pattern into it from the top down.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis will yield two large lobes of flesh from either side, plus two smaller lobes that are left behind.
Trim away any extra flesh that's still clinging to the pit.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
Vicky WasikDuring high school, Labor Day weekend always felt like the last hurrah of summer. I remember sitting at my classroom desk days later, longing for the warmer months. The funny thing is, it was still hot as hell outside. Don't make the same mistake as my teenage self, thinking summer has ended just because the vacations have. We don't have to swap sandals for sweaters yet.
My birthday is the week before Labor Day, and growing up (and even now) many of my friends are away. But these days, I'm never sad for friendless birthdays; they just mean I don't have to share my cake. One year, about a decade ago, my wife made me Karen Demasco's peach upside-down cake for my birthday, a recipe she found in New York Magazine. Peach is my summer fruit of choice,* and the recipe's soft buttery cake gets drenched in caramel and is topped with the chewy, gooey morsels that form on the bottom of the pan. I've requested it every year since.
I date this love back to the summer of 1995, when, as some of you may recall, a band called the Presidents of the United States of America came out with their hit radio single, "Peaches". The song's archetypal four-bar structure was common to many alternative-rock hits at that time, but it created an undeniable earworm. While most of the summertime anthems of that era vanished each year to free up space for the next one, this one stuck with me for some reason, and, along with it, the peach became my lifelong fruit of choice.
But my birthday is the only time she's willing to make it, which means I need to find other ways to scratch that itch. Recently, I thought of attempting a rendition of it on the grill. My initial idea was to bake a cake in a pan over the coals. This was an idea that Serious Eats's resident pastry expert Stella Parks refused to support (politely, of course, because she's a true southerner). I next proposed we make sponge cakes using the radiant heat of extinguished coals; this too was delicately shot down. Stella's objection was that the highly variable temperature of a grill would make it near impossible to write a recipe that other cooks could successfully repeat. And so, together, we sought solutions, a way to replicate the flavors of that celebratory peach cake without having to work too hard (in honor of the last weeks of summer, of course).
Stella brilliantly suggested I use pound cake as a base—either store bought or homemade—because it's something you can buy or bake days in advance; it can even be frozen, if need be. And it will toast up quickly and beautifully on the grill. It's a great trick for any fruit-based summer desserts, it even works as a cheater's strawberry shortcake.
I knew I wanted to grill the peaches as well. Part of the goal is to caramelize the existing sugars in the fruit, but I like to augment that effect by dipping the cut face of each peach half in sugar, which melts and deepens in flavor as it cooks over the coals, while forming a candied surface that helps trap some of the juices in the fruit even as it becomes meltingly tender.
For the grilled version of my birthday cake's goldmine of caramel, I looked for a little lift from—you guessed it—vinegar. I combine apple cider vinegar with sugar to make a sweet and sour gastrique (the French term for a sweet-sour sauce made from caramel and vinegar), turning it velvety by adding chunks of butter. The fruitiness of apple cider vinegar makes it a no-brainer for fruit-based desserts. A word on cooking vinegar over a flame: The vapors of boiling vinegar can knock you off your feet, so stand back and avoid inhaling deeply right over it. Your nasal passages will thank you.
When assembled, the grilled slice of pound cake is crisp and buttery, the peach is sweet and smoky, the caramel is compellingly acidic and rich, while a dollop of cold whipped cream crowns the dish. If this is the flavor summit of summer's end, it's worth waiting for. I'll happily savor it all year long.
Light one chimney full of charcoal. When all the charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and spread the coals evenly over half of coal grate. Alternatively, set half the burners of a gas grill to high heat. Set cooking grate in place, cover grill and allow to preheat for 5 minutes. Clean and oil the grilling grate.
Spread an even layer of sugar on a small plate and dip the cut side of each peach half into it to coat lightly; top up sugar if needed. Set peaches, sugar side down, near but not directly over the coals (about medium to medium-high heat) and cook until the sugar coating has turned a deep caramel brown in spots, about 3 minutes; take care to make sure they don’t burn. Flip the peaches and move them to the cooler side of the grill. Cook until peaches are softened throughout but still hold their shape, 5 to 10 minutes. Keep warm. (You can move the peaches closer to and farther from the fire as needed to ensure they cook through and then remain warm without overcooking.)
Set an oven-proof 10-inch stainless steel skillet over the hot side of the grill and add the 1 cup sugar to it. Shake to spread sugar in an even layer, then cook until the sugar has melted and formed an amber caramel, about 10 minutes (timing can vary heavily depending on the grill's heat).
Carefully and slowly add the vinegar; the liquid will splatter and bubble a bit. Try not to inhale the vapor from the boiling vinegar; it can be very potent. Cook, swirling gently from time to time, until the vinegar and caramel come together to form a uniform sauce; it's best not to stir during this time, as the caramel can clump onto the stirring utensil. Continue cooking until the sauce coats the back of a spoon. Whisk in 1 piece of butter at a time, whisking constantly until each is fully incorporated before adding the next. Season with salt. Remove the caramel from the grill and let cool to room temperature.
Set poundcake slices over medium heat zone of the grill and cook until toasted, about 1 minute. Flip and repeat on other side. Be careful as the cake can burn quickly.
To assemble, place pound cake on plates. Top with grilled peach halves, then pour a generous amount of caramel over the peaches. Top with a dollop of whipped cream and serve.
Special EquipmentGrill, 10-inch oven-safe stainless-steel skillet, whisk
Melissa RivardI’ve owned and built a couple of backyard pizza ovens, and while I loved them both, they took ages to heat up before I could bake in them, which meant that I only did so when I had half a day or more carved out for pizza-making. Switching over to a tabletop outdoor pizza oven has been a game-changer for my pizza-party calendar: It’s ready to rock in about 30 minutes, which means I fire it up all the time, and all I need to do isplan ahead so I have dough balls ready to go in the fridge.
One thing I sought to do with these composed pizza recipes for outdoor ovens was look for ways to use the high heat of the oven for things other than just baking the pizza. For this recipe, as well as the burst cherry tomato, shallot, and herb one, my goal was to use the oven for some of the pre-bake topping prep while it heated up for firing pies. In this case, I wanted to get serious char on some broccoli rabe, a process that adds complex flavor to bitter greens like rabe, while also helping to temper some of their bitterness.
But because pizzas baked in these super-hot ovens tend to cook in a matter of minutes, toppings have a limited window within which to cook. When I tried putting uncooked rabe on the pie, it remained mostly raw when it came out; even blanched, wilted rabe only charred lightly.
In order to get the right amount of char on my broccoli rabe, I first blanch it in salted water to lightly wilt it, before chopping it into bite-sized pieces. I then toss the rabe with olive oil and red pepper flakes in a skillet, and let it char while the oven heats up, which takes just a few minutes.
To complement the smoky bitterness of the charred rabe, I pair it with a blend of Parmesan and Pecorino Romano, a healthy number of anchovy fillets, and a simple tomato sauce. No creamy, melty mozzarella here—this pie is all about its savory punch. Of course, if some of your pizza-eating companions aren’t anchovy lovers, you can leave the salty fish out on a couple of pies; that’s their loss.
Remove dough from refrigerator and allow to rest in proofing containers, covered, at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours before baking. Dough temperature should reach 60˚F (15.5°C) before stretching and baking; exact timing will depend upon ambient temperature.
Melissa RivardUsing a countertop or immersion blender, process tomatoes until a coarse but evenly blended sauce forms, about 10 seconds. Transfer to a 2-cup liquid measuring cup; if needed, add reserved tomato liquid to yield 2 cups (475ml) sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper; set aside.
Melissa RivardIn a small bowl, stir together Parmesan and Pecorino until well combined; set aside.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add broccoli rabe to boiling water and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickest parts of stalks are tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain well, squeezing rabe to get rid of excess moisture. Allow to cool slightly, then cut stalks crosswise into 2- to 3-inch pieces.
Melissa RivardHeat pizza oven to 800°F (425°C). While oven heats, in a 10-inch stainless steel, cast iron, or carbon steel skillet, combine rabe, 1/4 cup (60ml) oil, and red pepper flakes. Set skillet in oven and cook, stirring frequently, until rabe is lightly but evenly charred, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.
Melissa RivardWhen ready to bake, coat one dough ball generously on both sides with flour and place on well-floured surface, seam side down. Gently press out dough into rough 8-inch circle, leaving outer 1-inch higher than the rest. Stretch dough into a 10- or 12-inch circle (final dimension depends upon the size of your oven) about 1/4-inch thick by draping over knuckles and gently stretching. Transfer to floured wooden or perforated metal pizza peel.
Melissa RivardWorking quickly, spread an even layer of tomato sauce over pizza, leaving outer 1/2-inch rim untopped. Spread anchovies evenly over sauce, followed by cheese mixture. Scatter rabe evenly over pizza and drizzle with oil.
Melissa RivardTransfer pizza to oven and bake, rotating pie regularly with a metal peel for even cooking, until rim is lightly charred and bottom is crisp, 90 to 180 seconds total. Retrieve pizza with a metal peel and transfer to a cutting board. Slice, and serve immediately.
Melissa RivardRepeat steps 6 through 8 for remaining pizzas.
Special EquipmentHigh-temperature outdoor pizza oven, immersion blender, wooden or perforated metal pizza peel, metal pizza peel.
NotesBoth salt- and oil-packed anchovies will work for this recipe. Read more about how to fillet and prepare salt-packed anchovies here. If you don’t like anchovies, this pie is still delicious without them.
Make-Ahead and StorageTomato sauce can be made in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
Vicky WasikJuicy, tart mangoes are surprisingly excellent at cutting through the richness of the avocado in this open-faced sandwich. Unfortunately, it can be hard to predict just how sweet they'll be. If you're working with an especially ripe or fruity mango, make sure to compensate with additional lemon juice to keep the sweetness in check. A sprinkle of chili powder adds contrasting heat that more firmly anchors this toast in savory territory. Chopped mint delivers an aromatic, herbal touch, but basil would do nicely here as well.
Lightly brush bread with olive oil and toast to desired level of doneness. Top with avocado and mash with a fork to cover entire surface. Add single layer of mango, sprinkle with a squeeze of lemon juice, and dust with a dash of chili powder. Garnish with mint and salt. Serve.
NotesThe volume of each ingredient will depend on the size of your bread and personal preference. Apply to taste.
Serious Eats / Getty ImagesWandering around the farmers market in July, August, and September, there’s always a deluge of summer squash, including zucchini, yellow squash, pattypan, and more. Unlike its winter counterpart, summer squash has a relatively short shelf life. And although pickling, dehydrating, and freezing are tenable options, summer squash is at its best when fresh. From grilling and roasting to blanching and sautéeing, there are a number of ways to enjoy squash, but given how many varieties are out there, it can be hard to know where to start.
To really take in every delicious bite of this unique crop and learn more about the different varieties and when and how to cook with them, I reached out to vegetable expert chef Sarah Grueneberg, executive chef and co-owner of Chicago’s critically acclaimed restaurant Monteverde. Her decades of cooking experience—paired with her childhood spent in her family’s personal garden and her 2022 cookbook Listen to Your Vegetables—makes her an expert on all things vegetables, including summer squash. Read below to learn about what defines summer squash, its different types, and tips to help you buy the right one to suit your cooking needs—no matter what kind you choose.
What Is Summer Squash?Both summer and winter squash belong to the genus Cucurbita, which also includes pumpkins and gourds. Although the terms “squash” and “gourds” are somewhat interchangeable, most botanists agree that “squash” refers to plants within Cucurbita that are cultivated for eating, while “gourd” instead refers to members of the genus that are grown as ornamental crops. Regardless, all the plants contained within this genus are technically classified as herbaceous fruits since they contain seeds.
There are a number of qualities that differentiate a summer squash from a winter squash. The latter has a thick, hard rind that’s often inedible; a dense, sweet flesh that’s firm and keeps much of its shape when cooked; and is harvested in late summer to early winter. Summer squash, on the other hand, has a thin, edible skin; tender flesh with a mild flavor; and is harvested mostly in June through August.
Summer squash is native to the Americas and has long been a staple ingredient in Central and South American cuisines. Squash derives its name from the Narragansett tribe’s word “askutasquash,” which translates to “eaten raw or uncooked.” European colonization disseminated summer squash across the globe, and it has since become a popular ingredient in other countries around the world, including Italy, Lebanon, India, and the Philippines.
Tips for Picking Summer SquashNo matter where summer squash is grown or what specific variety it is, according to Grueneberg, there’s one overarching quality to consider when assessing options, depending on how you plan to prepare it. “The flesh-to-seed ratio [in a bigger squash] is definitely different than in a smaller squash,” says Grueneberg. “If they're small and baby, they're not going to have a lot of seeds and they're going to be drier, so they’ll char better. They're going to stay a little firmer in texture. The larger the squash are, the more water content it will have and the bigger the seed content will be.” Smaller squashes, therefore, are better for slicing and grilling or dressing and serving raw. Larger squashes, on the other hand, fare better split in half, scooped out, and cooked.
Types of Summer SquashThere are a number of summer squash you may come across in grocery stores, farmers markets, and international markets. Below are seven varieties to familiarize yourself with.
Yellow SquashGetty Images / rimglowThe yellow squash is perhaps the first variety that comes to mind when picturing summer squash. Bright and sunny in color with a fat bottom that tapers towards the neck, yellow squash has a mild flavor and slightly firm raw texture. Straightneck and crookneck squash are two varieties that are under the umbrella of yellow squash. They’re suitable for all sorts of uses, including thinly slicing into raw medallions and tossing with a simple dressing, herbs, and other accompaniments for a refreshing summer salad, or cut into coins, topped with crushed, buttery crackers and baked into a yellow squash casserole for a comforting dinner.
ZucchiniGetty Images / Bjoern WylezichThe workhorse of summer squash, zucchini—a green squash that grows about a foot long, slightly resembling an English cucumber—is a staple in home gardens and at farmers markets. Sauteéd, baked into zucchini bread, sliced lengthwise and grilled, or served as a vegetable carpaccio, the zucchini can find a home with almost any cooking method. Their mild and grassy flavor—which ranges from slightly sweet to barely bitter—aids in this summertime staple’s versatility and enduring popularity. Grueneberg is also a fan of eating raw zucchini salads, using smaller “baby” zucchinis, and mentioned one technique she employs to ensure her squash remain crunchy instead of flabby.
“If you shave them raw and if you just toss them with a little bit of salt, it totally changes texture,” says Grueneberg. Tossing raw zucchinis with salt draws out the squash’s moisture through a process called osmosis. As the salt sits on the surface of the zucchini, the moisture inside the zucchini transfers across the plant’s cell membranes to the surface in order to achieve an equal amount of hydration on both sides of the membrane. Salting the squash—a technique we also recommend with tomatoes and cucumbers—in this way while it sits in a colander in the sink or a salad spinner allows the excess moisture to drain off. What you’re left with are the crunchy, raw zucchinis Grueneberg loves to snack on once dressed with oil and seasonings.
“We chill them down and toss them with olive oil and basil,” she says. “And it's one of the most delicious ways I think of eating raw squash.”
PattypanGetty Images / FirnCharacterized by their short and squat appearance, pattypans are another versatile summer squash with loads of potential. Since they ripen in yellow, green, white, and variegated color patterns, pattypans offer cooks more interesting presentation options in dishes beyond the standard yellow and green colors of other summer squashes. Although they look strikingly different from zucchinis, pattypans have a similar-but-sweeter taste. They’re best harvested when ripe but still small; the larger they get, the starchier and more bitter they become.
Their squat shape makes them perfect for roasting, and they also fare well on the grill if sliced in half lengthwise. Once slightly cooled, grilled pattypan squash can be diced, seasoned, and added to salads, like in this grilled summer squash salad with chimichurri. When grilled, they lend a distinct lightly charred flavor without overpowering the other vegetables in a salad.
ChayoteGetty Images / StockcamChayote squash, native to Mexico, has found a place in several cuisines around the world. The squash is a pale green color with a slightly bumpy exterior and a short, stout shape that resembles a pear. Its crunchy, white flesh and slightly sweet, refreshing taste is somewhere between an apple and a cucumber. It’s become a globally popular ingredient with many applications. In Filipino cuisine, where chayote is referred to as “sayote”, it's added to stir-fries, chop suey, and soup. In southern Louisiana, chayote is called “mirliton” and is stuffed, stewed, sautéed, or even used in casseroles. In Mexico, the squash is often included in soups, like caldo de res, or sliced in salads. Chayote is also part of the cuisines of Mauritius, Portugal, and India, to name a few. Many of these cuisines incorporate the edible stems and leaves of the squash plant as well.
“I have found that shaving them and just doing a real quick blanch on them and eating them in a salad is really yummy,” says Grueneberg. But working with chayote is quite different from other summer squashes, due to their noticeable high starch content and rough texture when left raw. “I would definitely wear gloves because your hands will get that weird kind of starchiness, like when you work with artichokes,” Grueneberg suggests.
CousaGetty Images / Sergei GinakPopular in Middle Eastern cooking, cousa is light green with a slightly stumpier appearance than other summer squash. Its shape, coupled with its tender flesh and sweet flavor, makes it ideal for scooping out and stuffing with rice, meat, and spices, a popular preparation across Middle Eastern cuisines (which often go by the name dolma). After hollowing out the squash from its neck and stuffing it with a spiced ground beef mixture, the whole squash is poached in tomato paste until it’s tender and the meat is well done. In Arabic, “cousa” refers to both the specific squash used in this dish, as well as stuffed squash dishes themselves.
TromboncinoGetty Images / Sharon WillsEasily recognizable by its larger-than-life size, light green skin, and signature curve, the tromboncino squash is a longtime favorite among Italian cooks for a flavor that’s mild, nutty, and sweeter than zucchini. It’s an heirloom variety of squash from the northern Italian region of Liguria. Italian cooks adore the large, curvy squash for its versatility, flavor, and abundance during harvest.
Traditional Italian cooking methods of the tromboncino include slicing, pan frying, and serving the squash as a side dish, and using its flesh in place of the more standard russet potato to make gnocchi. Grueneberg is a fan of slicing tromboncino lengthwise and layering the slices in place of eggplants to make a tromboncino Parmesan, or incorporating them into a Provençal tian.
ZephyrGetty Images / Selwa BaroodyThe zephyr is a distinct summer squash marked by its two-tone yellow and green skin that has a firm divide between the two colors on the squash’s skin. Popular for its sweet and nutty flavor, the zephyr is a versatile summer squash with a firmer texture that adds a little complexity to any dish, including pastas. It’s normally harvested when it’s between four and six inches long.
At home, Grueneberg likes to add this squash to her pasta dishes while considering how its shape will hold up against the weight of the noodles: julienned for longer noodles, like spaghetti, or spiralized before tossing with a curly noodle, like fusilli or cavatappi.
Squash BlossomsGetty Images / Mahir AtesTechnically squash blossoms aren’t summer squashes themselves, but it felt wrong not to at least mention what I consider to be one of the best bites of the summer. Squash blossoms are exactly as they sound: the delicate blossoms from the squash plant. You can often find them at farmers markets, but if you’re going to cook garden-grown blossoms, it’s important to know which ones to harvest.
Squash plants produce two types of flowers, with one of them providing pollen and the other being pollinated; the pollinated flowers are the blossoms that eventually mature into squash. In order to maximize the number of mature squash you’re producing while still enjoying one of the season’s best bites, pollen-producing blossoms are the ones to snip from the vine. These types of blossoms can be identified by their long stems that position the blossoms far away from the vine and the pollen-bearing anthers in the center of the petals. It’s important not to harvest all of the pollen-bearing blossoms, though, as they are essential to making sure the squash vines bear fruit.
Though it would be easy to assume squash blossoms would have a floral flavor to them, they’re actually quite mild on their own, with just a hint of squash flavor. If left raw, they add a slight chew to any dish as a garnish. When fried in the traditional manner, though, the blossoms have a satisfying crunch that quickly yields a soft, almost melting mouthfeel. “They have such a beautiful, pure, delicate flavor of squash,” says Grueneberg. “They're so fun to either tear and fold into a dish or to a salad. But fried squash blossoms are one of the best things ever.”
Lynn WolstedCome summertime, chefs and home cooks everywhere are especially excited—like, really excited—about tomatoes. Tomato tarts, sandwiches, and pastas galore! While we can’t deny that tomatoes are great, there’s also a lot to love about their summer salad sidekick, the cucumber. Cucumbers, which bring coolness, crunch, and a refreshing bite to salads, sandwiches, and even stir-fries, can really make your summer meals pop. Plus, they’re delicious to snack on with a dip or on their own. But because cucumbers are full of moisture, they can turn your meals into a soggy, waterlogged mess. Luckily for us, there’s a simple solution to this problem: salting your cucumbers.
Why You Should Salt Your CucumbersLynn WolstedSalting your cucumbers initiates the process of osmosis, which expels water from the cucumber's cells while simultaneously enhancing its flavor. As Serious Eats contributor Tim Chin wrote in his guide to brining vegetables, the salt “diffuses across those membranes and seasons the vegetables deeply.” People often think of cucumbers as bland and watery, but depending on the variety, they can be sweet, pleasantly bitter, and even savory. Salt helps cucumbers release their moisture, but, just as importantly, highlights the nuanced flavors we might otherwise miss.
It’s a technique our editors and contributors rely on. “When I make cucumber dips, I always pre-salt cucumbers to draw out moisture before stirring into the dip, so the excess moisture doesn't thin the dip as it leaches out over time,” says senior culinary editor Leah Colins.
Culinary editor Genevieve Yam, who despises a soggy salad, frequently salts her cucumbers to prevent her meals from becoming a puddle. And Chin employs this technique in his stir-fried cucumbers and mushroom recipe to help the cucumbers properly sear instead of turning into mush.
How to Salt Your CucumbersYou've heard of “set it and forget it,” but what about...salt it and forget it? Salting your cucumbers is such a low effort task that all you need to do is season them, walk away, and let osmosis do the hard work for you. Do it at the beginning of dinner prep, and by the time you've gathered all your mise en place, your cucumbers will be ready to go.
You’ll want to use about half a teaspoon of Diamond Crystal kosher salt for every pound of cucumbers you’re preparing. (Use a quarter teaspoon if using table salt.) Wash and slice the cucumbers, place them in a colander set over a large bowl or sink, then salt them. (You may want to lightly toss them to make sure the cucumbers are evenly coated) Let the cucumbers sit until they begin to release their water, about five to 10 minutes. Some people like to rinse the salt off or dab the cucumbers dry afterwards, but whether you choose to is entirely up to you. If you do rinse them, just be sure to drain them well so you're not adding even more water to your final dish after working to remove moisture—because that would defeat the whole purpose of salting them in the first place.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezEvery Easter, my family paints dozens of hard-boiled eggs. Some we reserve for a backyard Easter egg hunt. Others we date and sign, carefully stashing them away in egg cartons, until we bring them out again next year, meticulously unpacking and arranging them in a large glass bowl to create a one-of-a-kind centerpiece for Easter dinner. (The eggs dry naturally, with no unpleasant odor; my mom has eggs my aunt painted for her 50 years ago.) We repurpose the rest for another tradition: pickled eggs.
In my hometown of York, Pennsylvania, beet-pickled eggs aren't just an Easter treat—they're ubiquitous year-round at picnics and potlucks. The eggs (also referred to as red beet eggs) often play a role in the Pennsylvania Dutch custom of "seven sweets and seven sours," an old custom of serving a variety of sweet and sour dishes—such as baked goods, puddings, pickles, and relishes—at every meal. You'll find red beet eggs at markets, grocery stores, diners, and buffets. If a Central Pennsylvanian mentions pickled eggs, they are almost certainly referring to the red beet kind.
Unlike eggs pickled in a white vinegar brine, red beet eggs are conserved alongside—you guessed it—red beets, which gives the eggs their vivid purple hue. The eggs first take on a pinkish tint, and by day two, the color begins to creep inside, forming a colorful ring around the outer edge of the white. After a week, the entire egg white turns a bright magenta, with the yolk eventually becoming an orangey-pink, too. Brined in a mixture of cider vinegar, water, pickling spices, and cinnamon, these eggs are sweet and tangy, and make a delicious snack or accompaniment to burgers, cold cuts, and potato salad.
As I mentioned in my recipe for quick-pickled eggs, there are two methods people turn to when pickling: vinegar pickling and lactic-acid fermentation. Unlike fermented pickles, which can take several weeks or months, making quick pickles simply involves pouring a vinegar-based brine over fruits and vegetables, or in this case, eggs, imbuing them with tart flavor. Red beet eggs are not difficult to prepare, but my tips below will help you make ones that taste just like the ones we eat in Pennsylvania, including the ones my mom makes—a dish that I request every time I’m home.
Despite their ease, these pickles require a dose of patience: After layering hard-boiled eggs and sliced pickled beets in a jar and covering everything with hot, cinnamon-infused cider vinegar brine, pop the jar into the fridge and wait. And wait. And then—if you can bear it—wait some more.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez4 Tips for Making Red Beet Eggs the Pennsylvania Dutch WayUse already-pickled beets. My mom makes red beet eggs with home-canned pickled beets, but once those are finished for the season, she turns to store-bought beets, which is the approach I've chosen here. Eggs pickled alongside fresh beets will turn pink faster, but they take much longer to develop the pickled vegetable flavor so essential to these eggs. Fresh isn’t always best, and in my testing, I found that eggs made with already-pickled beets were not only easier and faster to prepare, but more delicious, too. Be sure to choose the pre-sliced kind, but if you only have whole pickled beets, you can slice them thinly to use in this recipe.
The best red beet eggs take on a distinct, sweet and sour pickled beet flavor. Since already-pickled beets have spent several months brining, there’s no need to wait for the beets to pickle (like you would with fresh) before they can impart that flavor to the eggs, allowing you to enjoy the finished product more quickly. Jarred beets also eliminate the messy process of boiling, peeling, and slicing fresh beets.
In both taste and method, the eggs prepared with pickled beets most closely resemble the ones I grew up making and eating in Central Pennsylvania. But if you're a stickler for fresh ingredients, or if you can't find jarred pickled beets, you can use fresh beets instead. Just be sure to let the fresh beets and eggs sit for at least seven days, as the beets will need time to pickle.
Alternate the eggs and beets. Avoid placing all the beets or all of the eggs at the bottom of the container you're pickling in; the more the beets intermingle with the eggs, the more flavor and color they'll impart.
Infuse your brine with a cinnamon stick and pickling spices. The brine recipe is based on the one my mom makes. The key ingredient in her brine is a cinnamon stick, which infuses the brine with its sweet, spiced woodiness. Pickling spice blends are readily available at most grocery stores, and generally contain some combination of mustard seeds, cloves, black pepper, ginger, cinnamon, coriander, cardamom, bay leaf, dill, mace, allspice, and chile. I prefer one with dried chile for a touch of heat, but feel free to choose one that suits your personal preferences.
Allow the eggs to sit for at least three days. You could eat the eggs after just 24 hours of brining, but I recommend letting them sit for at least three days before digging in. It takes about a week for the whites to turn completely purple, and the longer the eggs sit in the brine, the deeper their flavor (This recipe is especially great for using up leftover Easter eggs, as the dark color of the beets makes it difficult to see the dye-stained whites.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezHow to Serve Red Beet EggsServe red beet eggs as an appetizer or side dish, or chop them up to add a pop of color and bright flavor to salads. Make a batch of next-level deviled eggs, or do what I do and simply eat them as a snack. And don't neglect the beets! For me, it's all about balance. (As far as I’m concerned, every egg deserves its own spoonful of beet slices to match.) A Pennsylvania family reunion just wouldn't be the same without a plateful of pickled beets and eggs, their bright purple juices mingling with the potato rolls, chow chow, and Amish macaroni salad.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a 1-quart jar, layer sliced beets and hard-boiled eggs in alternating layers.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a medium saucepan, stir together 1/2 cup (120ml) reserved beet pickling liquid, cider vinegar, water, granulated sugar, pickling spice, salt, and cinnamon stick. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar dissolves, 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low and simmer until brine deepens in color and reduces slightly, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and discard cinnamon stick.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCarefully pour hot brine, along with pickling spices, over beets and eggs to cover completely. Cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCover with a lid and refrigerate until eggs are sweet, tangy, and have a vivid purple hue, at least 3 days and up to 2 weeks. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment1-quart heat-proof jar, medium saucepan
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIt’s not too late to turn back. You can make the decision right now to move your life forward, unburdened by…what lies in front of you. Because what lies in front of you is a lot of very charged words about coffee ice cream, a thing you presumably love and have strong feelings about.
…We do too! That’s why we wanted to warn you upfront.
Alas, recently, the Serious Eats team pulled together nine brands of coffee ice cream you're likely to find in your local supermarket and methodically, empirically, scientifically! tasted its way through them all in a quest to identify the very best. And we…well, we loved the idea of every minute of doing it! The reality was another story.
The Contenders* Adirondack High Peak Perk Coffee Bean * Ben & Jerry’s Coffee Toffee * Breyers Coffee Ice Cream * Del’s Dairy Farm & Ice Cream Co. Coffee Toffee * Friendly’s Coffee Ice Cream * Häagen-Dazs Coffee Ice Cream * McConnell’s Coffee Ice Cream * Turkey Hill Colombian Coffee Ice Cream * Wegman’s Premium Coffee Ice Cream
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe CriteriaA good coffee ice cream should eat like you’re drinking a cup of coffee. It, under no circumstances, should eat like you’re eating a cup of coffee. It should be easy! Pleasant! Delicious! If you are sitting there going: “Why on earth would she feel the need to say such a thing?” please consider yourself blessed to have never happened upon a ground-, bean-, and/or coffee-related chunk-filled scoop. This was the clearest common denominator amongst our winners—there! was! nothing! in! them! Anything with even a fleck in it—regardless of the ice cream’s hue—landed in the bottom half of our rankings. In fact, this distinction was so clear that the numerical rankings ran the whooole gamut of the scale, which almost never happens. I normally sit here and say things like “haha we all just love peanut butter no matter what, I guess!” No! Our love of coffee ice cream is deeply, deeply conditional and that condition is “no nonsense in the ice cream!!”
Anyway! That same ice cream should taste more like coffee than it does like milk, but that milky creaminess must be present. If there are other flavors present, they should be vanilla or caramel, but none of those flavors should in any way interfere with the coffee of it all.
God, I’m wound up! Almost like I’ve been consuming a lot of coffee!! A perfect time to introduce the ratings.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe RankingsHäagen-Dazs Coffee Ice Cream, 4/5It doesn’t bring me joy to be A Person Who References The Office at work, but you know that episode where the whole cohort is tallying how many ways Phyllis can describe the way a perfect rainy day makes her feel? Each and every tester ate this sample and proceeded to write something gorgeously cheesy about how content this ice cream made them feel. I will pick on Genevieve specifically for this blurb, because her tasting notes best help me make my point here while still discussing the ice cream productively: “Love the creamy texture, really smooth! This is the only one so far that I have finished the entire sample of. Is this Häagen-Dazs? It’s got such a nice color. I feel like I’m sitting down to enjoy a cup of coffee on a windowsill with a good book. It’s making me feel so many things!”
Friendly’s Coffee Ice Cream, 3.56/5A decidedly milkier experience than a coffee-ier one, this option ate smoothly and was the color of “cafe con leche with a little too much leche,” Kelli wrote. It was exactly the consistency of ice cream you’d hope would be the base of your diner milkshake or paired with an Irish coffee. I’ve also lost count at this point of how many taste tests we’ve conducted in which a "premium" brand lands first place and an unserious brand (said with affection!) of yore falls decidedly in second; I am out of jokes about how the Serious Eats team needs to pop some magnesium and listen to a Celine Dion album while sitting on the floor.
Wegman’s Coffee Ice Cream, 3.33/5Another bronze medal for Wegman’s! Comments on this store brand always, without exception, remark on beautiful bounce and chew. Genevieve wrote that it was “really smooth and creamy; slightly stretchy, but not unpleasantly so!” This was also the boldest, deepest color of the bunch. Dark roast-y! As for the actual flavor, all notes pointed toward a heavier coffee presence, some even going so far as to remark on a coffee syrup/extract flavor.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTurkey Hill Coffee Ice Cream, 3.25/5Well, I never! In the past few tests, Turkey Hill has performed decidedly poorly—these editors have exclusively found it to be too foamy, too mildly flavored, and just not satisfying. In coffee world, though, that subtlety was a positive. Kelli even went so far as to say this ice cream was “probably the only one I’d eat again,” calling the underlying sweetness “wonderful” with caramel undertones. To be fair, Kelli had never had coffee ice cream before, and all other testers that day found this to be a milder coffee offering.
Ben & Jerry’s Coffee Toffee, 3.25/5In Ben & Jerry’s defense, we searched high and low for Coffee Coffee Buzz Buzz and were only met with this option at three different grocery stores in the vicinity. That said, everyone always enjoys the heft and fresh dairy energy brought forth by a scoop of B&J’s. “The random bits and bobs” of toffee woven throughout this option were “a bit unexpected but not unpleasant,” Amanda thought. It made the whole experience sweeter than testers were hoping for, though, and firmly planted it into “not what [we] think of when [we] think of ‘coffee ice cream’” territory.
Del’s Dairy Farm & Ice Cream Co. Coffee Toffee, 2.9/5Same notes here as with the Ben & Jerry’s ones right above this, just with more mentions of caramel frapps and imminent toothaches. Smooth! Nicely melty! Really creamy! Just achingly sweet.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBreyers Coffee Ice Cream, 2.5/5The palest, latte-like color of the batch, which in turn translated to the least present coffee flavor of all. In fact, after some bites, it wasn’t terribly clear that this was a coffee ice cream? It was, like, vague coffee ice cream? Kelli, who at this point decided she does not really like coffee ice cream, wrote: “If you told me this was off-brand amaretto, I would believe you.” That said, it was plenty frothy! And that’s a part of coffee, so!
Adirondack High Peak Perk Coffee Bean, 1.33/5OK so, they really heard “coffee” and went “find me all the coffee you can. No no, don’t do anything to it, just get it into the ice cream. No!! I don’t care if it looks like that!! Just put all the coffee in the ice cream.” So, listen. If you want some sandy, almost-certainly caffeinated coffee ice cream, this is for you. It was not for our editors, who wrote things like “If I wanted to eat my coffee machine, I would” and “IT LITERALLY IS LIKE A MOUTHFUL OF COFFEE GROUNDS.”
McConnell’s Coffee Ice Cream, 1.25/5Same thing as Adirondack, but with even more coffee. In fact, legend goes that the Serious Eats editorial team still hasn’t slept or known peace to this day.
Our Testing MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted with brands completely hidden and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample 1 first, while taster B will taste sample 6 first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation of actual results possible.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoThrough the summer and into the early fall, I look for any excuse to not turn on my oven. My old colonial-revival style home lacks central air, and the idea of turning on my oven on a steamy, 90-degree summer day is unappealing. I’d much rather be outside, seeking shade, poking around my garden, and catching a summer breeze before the oh-so long, bleak, gray, and very snowy New England winter settles in. In these cherished summer and fall months, my outdoor grill becomes an extension of my indoor kitchen. You can find me outside in the early evenings on most work days, throwing a simple dinner on the grill while my kids are fighting over the hose, and on weekends, leisurely grilling elaborate meals for entertaining, where everything is coming off of the grill, even dessert.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoIt is in these moments that I have grown to love baking on my grill. Grill-baking is the term I use to refer to this style of cooking. I define grill-baking as a cooking method that uses the grill to maintain a steady temperature range while cooking over indirect heat to bake breads and batter-based and crumble-topped desserts. In effect, replicating the cooking environment of an indoor oven.
I started baking on my grill mostly to avoid my indoor kitchen in the summer, but as I gained experience with the technique, I realized that the grill is not just a way to avoid heating up an already-hot summer kitchen but a great way to incorporate complex and unexpected flavor—namely smoke—into baked goods that isn't as easy to achieve in an oven.
Successful grill-baking depends on having the proper setup and tools, as well as an understanding of both how to control a grill's more unstable temperatures as well as which desserts are the most forgiving to those shifting temps. With just a little know-how, though, you can easily turn your charcoal or gas grill into an effective outdoor oven.
Baking With a Charcoal Grill versus a Gas GrillAs Kenji López-Alt points out in his article highlighting the differences between gas and charcoal grills, there are pros and cons to grilling with each. The same is true when using a grill to bake. The advantage of a charcoal grill is the smoky flavor it gives to foods baked in it, but it comes at the cost of being more difficult to manage as an "oven." A gas grill is easier to use and will be more temperature-stable, but the trade-off is a loss of some of that fantastic smoke flavor.
The smoky flavor of charcoal is most noticeable when baking for at least 30 minutes. This is because the propane in a gas grill burns relatively cleaner than charcoal. As charcoal burns it omits smoke and a range of gaseous emissions that create that signature fresh-off-the-grill char flavor, which adds depth of flavor to savory breads and complexity to sweet desserts. This is the main reason I prefer to use a charcoal grill over a gas grill when grill-baking.
While the flavor achieved from baking with a charcoal grill is superior to that with a gas grill, the main benefit of a gas grill is that it's easier to maintain a constant heat level. With a charcoal grill, as the coals burn down, the heat level will dwindle over time, making maintaining a steady heat level—which is crucial for properly risen and evenly cooked baked goods—harder to do. With a gas grill, your initial burst of heat is lower than with a charcoal grill, but you have the ability to adjust the burners as needed to maintain a more constant heat level. The steady flow of propane is easy to maintain with the simple twist of a knob on a gas grill, and requires less monitoring than a charcoal grill. That’s not to say it’s unachievable with a charcoal grill (as I will describe later), but it does require more attention and monitoring to bake properly on a charcoal grill.
What To Bake On The GrillOne of the most important things to know about baking on a grill is that not every type of baked good is well-suited to the task. Perfectly crusty baguettes should be left in a steam-injected indoor oven. Delicate puff pastry and croissants are best baked indoors. Layer cakes are best left to more temperature-stable cooking zones.
The key is to look towards more rustic baked goods—the kinds of desserts and quickbreads that are at home in a cast iron skillet, and either more forgiving of variable temperatures, or thin enough not to require sustained even heat. My smoked ancho chile skillet brownie or a skillet cookie can achieve well charred edges with a gooey center on an outdoor grill, while the flavor of a grill-baked skillet cornbread with charred fresh corn and poblanos takes on a fire-tinged dimension when baked on the grill. Fruit desserts like my rustic apple crisp are also easy to throw together for the grill; the apple slices will soften fully and brown in spots even as a covered grill swings from higher to lower cooking temperatures.
The Essential Techniques for Successfully Baking on Your GrillThere's no question that baking on a grill is a larger technical challenge than baking in a standard oven. Ovens are insulated, helping them to hold a steady temperature and retain more heat than an outdoor grill. A grill, on the other hand, is mostly intended for faster cooking over a direct heat source, whether charcoal or gas. While a grill lid helps to regulate airflow and can trap heat during grilling, it offers little insulation and heat retention in comparison to an indoor oven.
Even if a grill isn't optimized for this type of cooking, it very much can be done. The key to success is to properly build and maintain heat on the grill. After years of fine-tuning how to grill-bake varied breads and desserts, these are the general steps and best practices I have landed on for foolproof grill-baking.
Technique 1: Preheat the Grill and Set Up an Indirect Cooking ZoneWhen baking in a well-insulated indoor oven, the standard is to preheat the oven to the temperature at which we intend to bake. For batter-based foods, this is usually between 325 to 375°F, while doughs usually require a higher temperature range of 400 to 500°F. Preheating to the desired final temperature is logical for an insulated oven, since it's designed to maintain the selected temperature.
When baking with a gas or charcoal grill, though, the grill needs to preheat to a higher temperature than whatever the actual baking temperature should be—we're talking 500 to 600°F—to accommodate the anticipated heat loss during the baking process due to a lack of insulation. As soon as you uncover a preheated grill and place a cold, heavy cast iron skillet full of raw ingredients inside it, its temperature will drop rapidly; by preheating the grill to a higher temperature than the intended baking temperature, we can accommodate this heat loss.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFor a charcoal grill, this means starting with a full chimney’s worth of charcoal briquettes, about six quarts of charcoal. Once the coals are properly lit and the top coals have a thin layer of gray ash around their edges, you'll want to pour the lit coals into a steeply banked pile along one side of the grill, edging up a couple inches of the grill wall, and leaving about two-thirds of the coal grate free of coals. By leaving a large area free of coals, you'll create an indirect cooking zone for baking, where the food can cook in the grill's high heat without scorching due to intense embers and fire right below. Important to remember: It takes 30 to 40 minutes to properly ignite a full chimney of charcoal briquettes, so plan accordingly.
For a gas grill, you'll instead want to preheat the covered grill with all burners on high until the grill reaches about 500°F (260°C). This will take about 15 minutes. Once the grill is properly preheated, you'll want to create a similar indirect cooking zone as one does in a charcoal grill by turning off all the burners except the primary one. (The primary burner on a gas grill is the burner that is connected closest to the gas source; it is the burner that is lit first on the grill and that regulates the gas flow to the other burners. Without the primary burner on, the other burners will burn out, as the connection to the gas source is cut off if the primary burner is turned off.)
If I’m already outside grilling dinner, baking a dessert or a bread on the grill is a great way to make best use of the fire. In this scenario where the heat of the coals is dwindling from having just grilled other items, you’ll need to build more heat on the charcoal grill. If the charcoal grill looses heat and drops below 300 degrees, carefully remove the cooking grate and top off the already lit embers on the grill with 2 to 4 quarts of unlit charcoal briquettes. Use tongs to shape into a steeply banked pile, then return cooking grate, cover grill and preheat for 10 to 30 minutes to let the coals ignite and the heat to rebuild back to 500 to 600°F. . Reheating a gas grill is easier. You just turn all burners to high, close the lid, let it heat up, then turn off the non-primary burners.
Technique 2: Bake on a Covered Grill and Opt for Cast IronSetting up the fire as described above for both charcoal and gas grills creates a large indirect heat zone, which is paramount for baking on the grill. This cooler side of the grill is where the baking happens. Too much direct fire underneath the baked item while cooking will cause the bottom to scorch, and the top to remain underbaked. Only by setting the food in the indirect zone away from the sources of heat can you ensure that whatever you are baking will cook at an even rate from edge to edge and top to bottom.
A cast iron skillet is my go-to vessel for baking on the grill. Not only does cast iron further ensure top-to-bottom even baking, but it also retains heat to encourage proper baking even as the grill temperature fluctuates. A highly durable cast iron skillet will also stand up to the more intense conditions of a grill without shattering, warping, or weakening over time.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoAnd at the risk of stating the obvious, you need to use the grill's lid to promote proper heat and temperature regulation. But beyond the evident heat-containing role of a lid, there are a couple other reasons for using the lid that differ between gas and charcoal grills. With a gas grill, the stainless steel construction of the lid with its internal heat deflectors prevents heat from escaping, retaining the heat which helps mitigate the temperature drop once the skillet is added to the grill. While with a charcoal grill, closing the lid will limit oxygen flow, stifling the flame and lowering that very high initial burst of heat and slowing down the rate of burning, which will create a more regulated cooking temperature for a longer period of time. So using a lid with a gas grill will raise and help maintain the temperature to ensure proper baking, while using a lid with a charcoal grill will help lower the temperature and slow down the rate of burning so the heat will last longer.
Technique 3: Monitor and Adjust the TemperatureUsing the grill lid will help regulate heat flow on the grill, but it's still important to closely monitor the temperature while baking. Built-in grill thermometers are notoriously unreliable. They can warp and damage over years of use from extreme temperature fluctuations and weather conditions, and can also be located in areas (like the underside of a lid) that might not represent the actual temperature where your food is cooking closer to the grate.
I always use an ambient temperature probe thermometer when grilling (note that an ambient temperature probe is different from the long pointy ones inserted into roasts). Before I heat the grill, I clip the probe onto the cooking grate at the same height of the food that I am cooking. This way I can properly track the grill temperature, and adjust the temperature if needed to maintain an oven-like baking environment.
Adjusting the temperature of a gas grill is relatively easy. As described above, the primary burner should be left on and the propane flow adjusted by turning the corresponding knob.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoMaintaining and adjusting the heat level of a charcoal grill requires a bit more finesse. A charcoal grill starts with a hotter initial burst of heat (500 to 600°F), and heat is lost throughout the course of baking as the charcoal burns down. A full (6-quart) chimney of charcoal briquettes will burn through in about an hour, with the heat dropping roughly 50°F every 20 minutes.That heat loss over the extended time of baking can be combated by adjusting the vents on the charcoal grill to maintain a constant temperature. Like any fire, charcoal needs oxygen to survive. Controlling the amount of oxygen that gets to the fire effectively controls the temperature. Most charcoal grills will have at least two air vents: one on the bottom half of the grill, and one in the lid at the top. Adjusting these air vents restricts or allows the air flow in and out of the grill, thus giving a handle on the heat being produced.
With my 22-inch Weber grill, keeping both vents open will maintain a temperature range of 425 to 475°F, while closing the top and leaving the bottom vent open will lower the temperature range by roughly 50°. Closing all of the vents will cut off the air flow and extinguish the fire over time.
I encourage you to play around with your charcoal grill's air vents while tracking the temperature using an ambient temperature probe so that you will become comfortable adjusting the heat level of your grill with intention, instead of guessing at whether you're in a good temp zone or not. Just remember to wear heat-resistant gloves!
Technique 4: Incorporate a Grill's Smoky Flavor When PossibleWhile I’ve described why you need indirect heat for grill-baking, I highly recommend putting the hot side of the grill to good use. First, you can use the hot side of the grill to add complex flavor to grill-baked goods by charring appropriate ingredients before they are cut and folded into a batter, bread, or filling. Grilling fruits before using them in the filling for a crisp or charring corn for cornbread intensifies the sweetness and complexity of each—it's a flavor that can only be achieved on a grill.
Beyond charing individual ingredients, you can also use smoke itself to flavor the baked good. In fact, I like to think of smoke as an unlisted ingredient in anything I choose to bake on my grill. The degree of smoke is something you can play with. Merely cooking with charcoal alone will infuse a lighter amount of smoke flavor into the food, while adding a large chunk of wood to the lit coals (or a foil packet of wood chips on a gas grill) can generate more significant amounts of smoke and thus smoky flavor.
While I’ll admit that standing over a lit grill in the summer heat might not be significantly less hot than baking indoors, for me, it's a lot more pleasant. Plus, in my opinion, the added flavor of char and smoke to grill-baked goods simply can’t be replicated indoors. The next time you’re grilling dinner outside, consider getting the most out of your grill's heat, keep that fire going, and treat yourself to a baked treat off the grill.
Vicky WasikMy childhood was filled to the brim with sunny American cheese. Kraft made many appearances in my early days of recipe development. I'd zap slices with milk in the microwave for a cheese "soup" that I'd eat while sitting cross-legged on the carpeted floor, dunking cold parathas into it and dodging the dog. At one of my mother's many elaborate dinner parties, I proudly served hors d'oeuvres of banana and Kraft Single sandwiches spiked with frilly toothpicks. (The banana played the role of the bread, an early omen for my culinary innovation.)
Often I kept it simple by melting some Kraft Singles over steamed broccoli florets. The microwave was stacked above the double oven, so, on my tippy-toes, I'd reach blindly into it to feel if the broccoli had attained that perfect crisp-tender texture before removing it for the final gilding. I'd fold each slice of cheese over itself, again and again, until I was left with a perfect stack of neon cubes. I'd place those strategically upon each verdant bloom, one sequin at a time, before the last quick blast of heat to melt them. If only I had discovered surgical tweezers earlier in life.
Even now I have difficulty eating broccoli without cheese. Green florets just don't look right unless they're peeking through a milky veil. But my tastes have developed, and my cheese universe has expanded well beyond the presliced. Here, a lush grating of Manchego is the perfect foil for snappy florets, the salty curls cloaking broccoli's bitter bite. A sharp cheddar or briny feta could also work well.
I also like to give broccoli a more adult treatment by charring it hot and fast under a broiler, so it inches toward the point of bitter blackness. Broccoli can handle all the heat you throw at it. That's because some of the enzymes in broccoli, as well as its other cruciferous cousins, are activated by heat, releasing a pungent sulfurous aroma. This effect is worsened when you cook it low and slow.
Cooking broccoli fast minimizes the development of unwanted flavors, while the high heat produces sweetness through caramelization. This simple cooking method also yields complex textures that are welcome in an often-overlooked vegetable. A trace of the raw vegetal crunch remains at the core, while the florets develop crackly bits and the edges of the stem grow tender.
Daniel has written before about the value of broccoli stems. I prefer to cut my broccoli heads into long spears, running my knife from top to bottom, ensuring that each piece has a good amount of both floret and stem. Just take the time to trim an inch or two off the stalk, and peel it to remove the tough skin.
Toss the broccoli with olive oil and salt, taking care to massage the seasoning into all the nooks and crannies. An even coat of oil speeds up the browning process, so your stems don't dry out before they char.
Crank up your broiler as high as it goes, and preheat a sheet tray below until it's screeching-hot. I live dangerously and spread the spears directly onto the tray, roasting them until the edges begin to char. Then I top the scorched broccoli with black pepper, lemon juice, and chopped hazelnuts.
For the Manchego, I like to use a Microplane to blanket the broccoli with an even blizzard of cheese. The cheese that's in contact with the hot broccoli heats up and weeps into every recess, while the outer layer remains light and fluffy. Toasted hazelnuts and floral honey are the final additions that transform this childhood favorite into a true provocateur.
Preheat the broiler to high and place a rimmed aluminum half-sheet pan 6 inches below it.
Cut broccoli head in half lengthwise, then cut each half into individual florets, each with a long spear of stem attached. In a large mixing bowl, toss broccoli with olive oil and salt, rubbing it well with your hands to coat evenly and thoroughly.
Arrange broccoli on preheated sheet tray, then broil until nicely charred in spots, about 5 minutes. (Keep a close eye on it, as different broilers have different power levels.)
Transfer broiled broccoli to a serving plate and season with black pepper. Sprinkle lemon juice all over, followed by honey and hazelnuts. Using a Microplane grater, grate Manchego cheese generously all over. Serve immediately.
Special EquipmentRimmed half-sheet tray, Microplane grater
Serious Eats / Francesca FasciglioneWhile Prime Day has come and gone, there are still plenty of kitchen deals to scour over at Williams Sonoma, where the best cookware sales include up to 38% off of Breville espresso machines, All-Clad cookware, Vitamix blenders, and more tested favorites that we’ve stood behind for years. We sorted through the sale to find the best deals on our winning gear and gadgets, including this Anova vacuum sealer and these Zwilling steak knives. As champions of “buy-it-for-life” equipment, we’re especially excited about these deals on tools and appliances that out-performed the competition due to their longevity and efficiency in the kitchen.
- A Great Entry-Level Espresso Machine: Breville Barista Express Espresso Machine
- The Best Touchscreen Espresso Machine: Breville Barista Touch Espresso Machine
- The Best Vacuum Sealer: Anova Precision Vacuum Sealer Pro
- A Powerful, No-Frills Blender: Vitamix E310 Explorian Blender
- One of the Best Dutch Ovens: Le Creuset Signature Enameled Cast Iron Round Wide Dutch Oven
- The Best Stainless Steel Cookware Set: All-Clad D3 Tri-Ply Stainless Steel 10-Piece Cookware Set
- The Best Mid-Priced Steak Knives: Zwilling Pro Le Blanc Steak Knives, Set of 4
- The Best Compact Indoor Pizza Oven: Breville Smart Oven Pizzaiolo Pizza Oven
Breville Barista Express Espresso MachineWilliams SonomaThis is a simple, straightforward model with a built-in grinder and steam wand. During our tests, the Barista Express produced impressive espresso and was easy to use thanks to its clearly marked dials and buttons. It also comes with a tamper and milk jug, so aside from the beans, you’ll be all set to make great espresso at home. It’s $150 off right now.
Ashley RodriguezBreville Barista Touch Impress Espresso MachineWilliams SonomaThe Barista Touch Impress has a large, bright touchscreen that does all the legwork of making a great coffee drink. You can choose from a variety of options including espresso, lattes, cappuccinos, and more, and the machine walks you through every step of the way. It’ll tell you if your shot is pulling too fast or too slow and the steam wand even auto-purges to avoid any milk clogging it up. You can snag one for a whopping $200 off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonAnova Precision Vacuum Sealer ProWilliams SonomaBoasting built-in bag storage and no refractory period (the time between sealings), the Anova Precision vacuum sealer is our favorite. It also has a bag cutter, moist and dry settings, and the seal holds up through longer sous vide times and freezer storage. You can grab one for 33% off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonVitamix E310 Explorian BlenderWilliam SonomaFor an entry into professional-level blending, the Vitamix E310 Explorian blitzes and blends smooth soups, silky sauces, and perfect smoothies. The control dial lets you easily toggle between 10 different speeds to dial in on the power you need. Already at a moderate price normally, it’s now $50 off.
Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesLe Creuset Signature Enameled Cast Iron Round Wide Dutch OvenWilliams SonomaFor years, we’ve recommended Le Creuset Dutch ovens for their impeccable heating and durability. Be it braising, stewing, or baking, the Le Creuset Dutch oven has done it all in our test kitchen and in our editors’ homes. This wide Dutch oven that’s on sale for 35% off is even big enough for a whole chicken or larger batches of food.
Will DickeyAll-Clad D3 Tri-Ply Stainless Steel 10-Piece Cookware SetWilliams SonomaAs our readers already know, we firmly believe in building your own cookware collection based on your needs, but this deal on our favorite All-Clad stainless steel cookware set that we tested is too good to pass up. We’ve recommended All-Clad stainless steel for years due to its impressive heat retention and responsiveness. At $430 off, this set comes with all the essentials, including our favorite stainless steel skillet and saucepan.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreZwilling Pro Le Blanc Steak Knives, Set of 4Food52With classy white handles and super sharp blades, these Zwilling steak knives are among our favorites. The high-carbon stainless steel knives impressed us by slicing through skirt steak like butter and the weight of the handle is just right. You can grab them for $30 off.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyBreville Smart Oven Pizzaiolo Pizza OvenWilliams SonomaAbout the size of a microwave, the Breville Pizzaiolo is a sleek indoor pizza oven that’s impressed us with its pizzas for years. In our tests, it reached 797°F and the pies it turned out had pillowy crusts and beautiful char. It also has a quick temperature recovery rate between pizzas, making it an efficient oven for indoor pizza-making. Plus, it’s a rare $200 off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWhy We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * An has tested kitchen equipment with Serious Eats for nearly two years.
Emily and Matt CliftonOur spring was something of a damp squib. It rained pretty solidly throughout April and May and while the garden is now as lush as it's been in years, we haven't had much of a chance to get out there and enjoy it. Now, at last, the heat is on, the tees and shorts are in rotation, and we're ready to get into the swing of the season.
So we wanted to celebrate with a dish that represented all the things we love about summer eating: the flavors of grilling and barbecue, the conviviality of outdoor parties with shareable foods, and delicious fresh seasonal produce like corn and tomatoes. And so our thoughts, as they often do, turned to nachos.
There's nothing fundamentally seasonal about nachos—the typical toppings of beans and cheese are, after all, available year-round. For this recipe, we decided to keep the cheese (in two forms!), but we removed the beans and replaced them with a bright mixture of summer-specific produce: grilled corn, juicy tomatoes, diced onion, sliced jalapeños, and pickled radishes. Some shredded chicken tossed in a homemade bourbon-spiked barbecue sauce rounds the whole thing out.
As for the process, the first thing we do is pickle the sliced radishes (any standard red radish is fine, no need to spend extra money on the fancy varieties), which takes at least a few hours. While it's an extra step, it's easy to do in advance and adds a bright, vinegary bite—and, of course, color—to the assembly. If you can, make them a day or two ahead to really maximize the tang!
You can also make the barbecue sauce ahead of time, if you prefer. At this stage of the year, we like to slather it on pretty much anything we can get away with—it has sweetness and depth from brown sugar and molasses, enough savory flavors to provide balance, and the bourbon ends up adding a smoky aroma once all its alcohol is cooked out. We toss the sauce with shredded, cooked chicken meat (you can buy a rotisserie bird for this, or roast or grill your own).
Nachos wouldn't be nachos without cheese—we're not completely throwing out the rulebook—so we use Kenji's recipe for cheese sauce which uses evaporated milk to help sharp cheddar melt into a silky smooth liquid. But wait, there's more! We're also adding grated Monterey Jack in two layers to make sure we get that essential "gooey pull," without which you may as well pack up and go home.
Finally, the chips, which are the backbone of the nachos. It's tempting to use store-bought chips here, as they're a major time- and effort-saver. But unless you have access to some really good sturdy ones, we think it's better to fry them yourself. You should make them pretty close to assembly, since you want them to be ultra-fresh (there is nothing worse in this world than a stale nacho).
Once all your elements are ready, layer the chips, sauced chicken, cheese sauce, grated cheese, and grilled corn in a baking dish or baking sheet and bake until the cheese is melted and gooey and the chips are slightly browned on top. Add the fresh tomatoes, red onion, avocado, and pickled radishes, drizzle with crema, and serve, preferably in the sunshine.
For the Pickled Radishes: In a small saucepan, combine vinegar, water, sugar, salt, mustard seeds, coriander seeds, black peppercorns, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally, until sugar and salt dissolve. Remove from the heat and let cool 5 minutes. Pack sliced radishes into a 2-cup heatproof Mason or other glass canning jar. Pour brine into jar, making sure to cover the radishes completely. Allow to cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes. Seal jar with a tight-fitting lid and shake or rotate it to evenly distribute the brine and spices. The pickles will be ready in about 1 hour, but are best after a few hours. They can be refrigerated up to 1 week.
For the Bourbon Barbecue Sauce: In a small saucepan, stir together ketchup, chicken stock, sugar, vinegar, 1/4 cup bourbon (60ml), onion, Dijon, molasses, soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce, and black pepper. Bring to a simmer, reduce heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced by about one-third (sauce should be glaze-like). Stir in the remaining tablespoon of bourbon and add more vinegar or hot sauce to taste, if desired. Cooled barbecue sauce can be stored in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
For the Nachos: Heat oil in a 12-inch cast iron skillet, Dutch oven, or wok over medium-high heat until it registers 375°F. Adjust flame to maintain temperature. Working in batches, add tortillas and fry, agitating with a metal spider, until edges just start to brown. Flip chips over and continue to cook until crisp and light golden brown. Transfer chips to a paper towel-lined tray, sprinkle with salt to taste, and let sit for 2 to 3 minutes to drain. Repeat with remaining batches. Set aside until ready to use.
In a medium bowl, combine chicken with 3/4 cup (180ml) of Bourbon Barbecue Sauce. Toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper and add more sauce if needed.
Adjust oven rack to center position and preheat oven to 375°F.
Layer 1/2 of chips in the bottom of a rimmed 9-by-13-inch baking sheet or baking dish. Drizzle with half of the cheese sauce and scatter half the shredded barbecue chicken on top. Top with half the corn kernels and sprinkle with half the grated cheese.
Layer the remaining chips on top. Drizzle with remaining cheese sauce, chicken, and corn. Top with jalapeños and sprinkle all over with remaining grated cheese. Bake until grated cheese is completely melted, about 5 minutes.
Top with tomatoes, onion, and avocado and drizzle all over with sour cream or crema. Garnish with cilantro leaves and drained pickled radish slices. Serve immediately.
Special Equipment2-cup Mason or other canning jar; wok, Dutch oven, or 12-inch cast iron skillet; metal spider; rimmed baking sheet
NotesFrying your own tortilla chips yields the best results, since they're guaranteed to be thick and crisp enough to stand up to the toppings; if you have a good source of store-bought tortilla chips, feel free to skip the frying step and use them here. For the chicken, you can buy a rotisserie chicken and pull the meat off, or roast or grill your own.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLast summer, I traveled to Italy's Amalfi coast. The trip was full of ocean views, fresh seafood, and citrus drinks. The running theme of the trip seemed to be lemons. Situated just south of Naples along the Tyrrhenian Sea, the Amalfi coast has a moderate climate that makes it the ideal place to cultivate lemons. The fruit was everywhere, filling the air with its sweet, citrusy aroma, which was lovely mingled with the salt air. The abundance of fruit meant I encountered all sorts of lemon-themed foods. I enjoyed refreshing scoops of lemon gelato and sorbet, and was pleasantly surprised to taste citrus zest and juice in bread, pizza, and pasta doughs, too.
But my favorite lemon-themed concoction was limoncello, a traditional Italian liqueur made from the zest of local lemons, alcohol (highly concentrated ethanol or vodka), and sugar. Bars and restaurants served bright limoncello in several ways: straight up, in desserts, and paired with Prosecco and soda as a spritz, which was perfect for sipping on a hot day by the seaside. In an effort to recapture that glorious time in Italy, I’ve taken to recreating this summery spritz at home.
3 Tips for Making the Best Limoncello SpritzBecause a limoncello spritz has so few ingredients—limoncello, Prosecco, club soda, and lemons—it's important that each one tastes good on its own, and that starts by picking a good quality limoncello. Sure, you could make homemade limoncello, but if you don't want to wait a couple of days for it to be ready, there's absolutely nothing wrong with store-bought limoncello. Check the label to ensure that the lemons are either sfusato Amalfitano or limone di Sorrento. Both of these lemons are found on Italy's Amalfi coast and tend to be sweeter than lemons from other parts of Italy— so much so that some locals even eat them whole, pith and all.
Use a dry Prosecco. Prosecco varies by sweetness; I use Brut in the recipe below, which is classified as having zero to 12 grams of residual sugar per liter of wine. You can use an even drier Prosecco like Extra Brut (zero to six grams of residual sugar per liter) or Brut Nature (zero to three grams of residual sugar per liter), but you may have to pay a premium as they aren’t as widely distributed as Brut in the US. The most important thing is that your bottle has a DOP, DOC, or DOCG. label—these various Denominazione di Origine labels are Italian and European Union certifications that guarantee quality, production, and place of origin.
Plain seltzer or club soda, please. You might be tempted to use a lemon-, lime- or even limoncello-flavored seltzer, but this is not the place for it. Let the Amalfi lemons in your limoncello shine.
Dial in the ratio of Prosecco to limoncello for a balanced drink. Many recipes on the internet call for three parts of Prosecco to two parts of limoncello to one part soda, but I recommend using a little less limoncello and a little bit more Prosecco, as this highlights the bright flavor of the lemons without making the drink too boozy or overpoweringly sweet. Feel free to adjust to taste, but this ratio of limoncello feels just right to me.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFill a wine glass halfway up with ice. Pour the limoncello over, then add the Prosecco and club soda.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing a cocktail stirrer, stir to mix and garnish with 1 to 2 lemon slices.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
Morgan Hunt GlazeFresh corn off the grill is a must for almost every backyard cookout. And while a lightly charred ear of sweet summer corn really needs no improvement, we’ll admit that it can become a bit repetitive by the end of summer. Enter grilled corn "ribs," which are thin long strips of corn fashioned into rib-like pieces, then tossed with butter and seasonings that cling to every kernel and grilled to burnished perfection. In our recipe, we toss the ribs with a paprika- and garlic-laced butter before grilling and topping them them elotes-style with a squeeze of lime, a rich Cotija crema, and a sprinkle of cilantro. They’re an impressive passed party app or a great company-worthy platter.
How Did the Corn Rib Trend Start?While it's not clear who first decided to turn corn into ribs, Momofuku Ssam Bar has been serving a deep fried version of corn ribs starting in 2017. Since then they’ve caught on in popularity at restaurants across the US, and have become a social media darling in the past few years.
Morgan Hunt GlazeThere’s the undeniable novelty factor and visual appeal of corn ribs, but before we started working on this recipe for them, we weren't convinced they were worth making at home. Forming the ribs requires cutting through the cob several times, and cutting an ear of corn down its hard, fibrous middle can seem… a bit hazardous at first thought. But fear not. Our test kitchen colleague Julia Levy, who is a seasoned recipe developer, put corn ribs through rounds and rounds of testing to find the best technique and tips for making this fun, showy, and downright delicious dish approachable to prepare at home. Read on for her tips for safely preparing and cooking corn ribs at home and for the full recipe.
4 Tips for Making Party-Worthy Corn Ribs at Home1. Start with a steady cutting surface. The first step to cutting corn ribs is to ensure a safe and steady cutting surface. Secure a cutting board to the kitchen counter with a non-slip pad, wet paper towels, or a damp kitchen towel. Then top the cutting board with another clean kitchen towel that you are comfortable getting messy. (Keep those fine tea towels folded in their drawer for another use.) Now the ear of corn can be nestled into the towel. The soft fabric will hold it securely in place when applying pressure to cut, more so than a smooth, slippery cutting board would.
2. Use a sturdy, sharp knife. Cutting corn ribs doesn’t require expert knife skills so much as a bit of muscle strength and the right knife to forcibly cut through the corn. Skip anything with a thin or flexible blade and reach for a sturdy chef's knife with a heavier handle or a cleaver (if you are comfortable wielding one). Also make sure your knife is properly sharpened. Start with a sharp blade and a hefty knife will minimize the amount of pressure you have to push down with when cutting through the cob. This in turn reduces your risk of your hand slipping while cutting.
Morgan Hunt Glaze3. Toss with seasoned butter to add flavor and promote browning. Arguably the best thing about corn ribs is that the long strips provide more surface area for butter and seasonings to cling to. We bolster our butter with black pepper, paprika, and garlic powder for a savory, smoky flavor. Tossing the ribs with the butter before grilling also enhances browning. The thin strips of corn cook quickly and the fat in the butter speeds up exterior browning, helping ensure that the ribs brown and cook through at the same time.
Finish with a Cotija crema. Here at Serious Eats, turning ears of corn into elotes—the classic Mexican street food of corn on the cob charred on the grill, then slathered in a spicy and creamy chile-, garlic-, and Cotija cheese–spiked sauce is one of our favorite ways to eat corn. So, we’ve incorporated these flavors into our corn rib preparation by drizzling a quick and easy Cotija crema over the grilled ribs before serving. If Cotija cheese is unavailable, feta is solid stand-in, and if you can’t find Mexican crema, sour cream will work well in a pinch. With a whiff of the grill still lingering, these corn ribs are sure to go fast.
For the Cotija crema: Stir together cheese, mayonnaise, crema, water, lime juice, chile powder, and garlic in a large bowl until mostly smooth; set aside.
Morgan Hunt GlazeFor the corn ribs: Working with 1 ear of corn at a time, place the corn on a folded kitchen towel on top of a secured cutting board (this creates a steady work surface). With a very sharp, hefty chef’s knife or a cleaver, cut corn cobs in half crosswise, and trim 1 inch off the pointed end, and discard. Working with 1 corn cob half at a time, turn each half on its broadest cut end, and carefully cut in half lengthwise through the cob. Remove kitchen towel and place halves cut-side down directly on cutting board; cut in half lengthwise again. Repeat with the remaining corn cob halves (you will have 32 corn ribs total). Set aside.
Morgan Hunt GlazeIn a large bowl, whisk together butter, salt, paprika, pepper, and garlic powder. Add corn ribs, and toss until evenly coated.
Morgan Hunt GlazeFor a charcoal grill: Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over bottom of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot (about 500℉; 260℃), about 5 minutes.
Morgan Hunt GlazeFor a gas grill: Turn all burners to high, cover, and preheat grill until hot (about 500℉; 260℃), about 15 minutes.
Clean and oil cooking grates, then carefully remove corn ribs from butter mixture, letting excess drip back into the bowl and place the corn ribs, kernel-side down on the grill. Grill corn ribs, turning as needed for even browning, until lightly charred all over, 5 to 7 minutes.
Morgan Hunt GlazeFor serving: Transfer the corn ribs to a platter, squeeze lime wedges over corn, and drizzle with the prepared Cotija crema. Sprinkle with more cheese and cilantro and serve.
Morgan Hunt GlazeSpecial EquipmentHefty, sharp chef's knife or cleaver, charcoal or gas grill, large chimney starter (if using charcoal grill), grilling tongs
Make-Ahead and StorageThe Cotija crema can be prepared up to 5 days ahead and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
The corn can be cut into ribs and refrigerated in an airtight container up to 4 days before grilling.
Serious Eats / Perry Santanachote"Men and melons are hard to know," wrote Benjamin Franklin. Preach, Ben! However, there are some telltale signs that can help us select good melons. (Not sure I can say the same about mankind…)
So, what are we looking for in the perfect melon?
“It's not just about flavor, aroma, and sweetness,” says Thanh Truong, a.k.a. Fruit Nerd, a third-generation fruiterer who hasworked at major supermarkets and in wholesale markets. “It's also about mouthfeel. Foods taste good when there's multiple things going on in your mouth.”
Serious Eats / Perry SantanachoteWhen you pick a fruit that is vine ripened and harvested at maximum maturity (or at least 95% there), Truong says it’ll also have developed more complex flavors. “I call it sweet umami,” he says. “It's a little acidic, a bit sour, and has some tang, because if you eat a melon that is only sweet, it's like eating straight sugar.”
Choosing a melon that is ripe when you buy it is key, says Amy Goldman, an heirloom seed preservationist and author of The Melon. Melons picked before their time can become softer, juicier, and more fragrant, but they never catch up on flavor. “What you pick is what you get,” she says. “But there are certain tips that discerning consumers can use to try to pick the best.”
Serious Eats / Perry SantanachoteDon’t just eye the fruit. “Get in there, hold it with your hands, use your nose,” says Truong. And even then, despite the consumer's best efforts, there’s no guarantee. “Sometimes it's not a fine flavored variety or it was a poor growing season,” says Goldman. “You take your chances.”
Below, we dive into how to use each of your five senses to up your chances of picking the best melon out there.
LookAll melons should be well rounded (filled out) and free of mold, bruises, soft spots, holes, and other signs of damage. Various types have other visual clues as well that indicate they’re ripe and ready.
Netting: Muskmelons, like American cantaloupe, have a raised netting on the skin. Goldman says the melon will have better flavor when the pattern is more raised, dense, and evenly distributed.
Serious Eats / Perry SantanachoteWebbing: Different from netting, webbing looks like veins that develop on the surface of the rind on some melons, such as the Santa Claus melon, as they age on the vine. “Looking for webbing has never ever failed me,” says Truong. “They make the melons look kind of ugly, and since we unfortunately live in a world where everything has to look visually appealing, growers don’t pick these webbed melons on the first round of harvesting. That extra time on the ground means they develop more mature flavors.”
Color: As melons mature, the primary color of the fruit skin warms, usually changing from greenish to yellowish. “Regardless of whether it's a muskmelon, honeydew, or other type of melon, it's not necessarily the color of the skin you're looking for,” says Truong. “It's the undertone of the skin.” Under the surface of the skin, you'll be able to see whether it's green, white, or yellow. When it’s green or white, he says it's not going to be as sweet as something that's a warm cream, beige, or yellow.
Serious Eats / Perry SantanachoteFeel“Judging the worth of many sweet dessert melons is literally right in your hands and under your thumb,” says Goldman.
Pick up the melons: “If one feels relatively heavy for its size, that melon is generally more juicy,” says Truong. “Pick up two of the same size with each hand so you can tell if one is slightly heavier than the other.”
Serious Eats / Perry SantanachotePress gently: Look for melons that are not too hard, not too soft. Use your thumb to press at the blossom end—the base of the fruit, opposite the stem. “The bottom often gives first,” says Truong. “If you press here and it has a slight give, that means the flesh inside is soft and ready to eat. However, if the sides are giving, it's too far gone.” He explains that when a melon gets too ripe, the water splits from the flesh and it becomes almost alcoholic in terms of its aroma and flavor.
If your thumb leaves an indentation, that also means its overripe, Goldman says. “If the thumb breaks through, forget about it!”
SmellMuskmelons, such as American cantaloupe, are very helpful in that they announce their ripeness by emitting a perfume. They’re slightly elongated, Truong says, so the thinnest parts of the skin are at the top and the bottom. Take a whiff at these ends, and if they’re especially fragrant with a pleasant aroma, they’re ready. A musty or acidic smell might mean the melon’s overripe, while a cucumber aroma means it’s underripe.
Serious Eats / Perry SantanachoteWhile this tip can be helpful when shopping, it’s important to note that the sniff test doesn’t work on thick rind melons like honeydew and Santa Claus melons.
ListenGive the melon a little shimmy shake. You should not hear any juice sloshing around, which would mean the melon’s overripe, says Goldman. Rattling is okay—it's just loose seeds.
Truong says there's an optimal moment to eat a melon. “Once you pass that moment, it becomes water-logged; it won't be as crunchy and crisp anymore,” he says. “It'll be kind of flat and soft, even if sweet.”
TasteMost often, you’re tasting the melon after you’ve picked it, but take a retailer or farmer up on the offer if they’re handing out samples. You may not taste the exact melon you’d be taking home, but it’ll give you a sense of the quality of the batch.
Serious Eats / Perry SantanachotePutting the Tips to the TestFollowing all these tips myself led me to some pretty darn-good melons, even though peak melon season was another month or so away when I was doing my research. I was surprised at the quality I was able to find at supermarkets, but the farmers market melons were far superior, giving me that sweet umami flavor Truong noted. There’s also the benefit of having the grower right there in case you have any questions.
Serious Eats / Perry SantanachoteI found the tips were easy to follow in the real world. The trickiest tip for me was listening for sloshing. I picked one Santa Claus melon that was webbed to perfection, but discovered upon slicing it that it was probably overripe—juices spilled out and you can see in the photo above that it was pooling in the flesh. Still, I ate every last bit of it because it was succulent and sweet. Christmas in July, baby!
I also bought some melons that did not fit the ideals and they were indeed underwhelming. The cantaloupes were too firm, not giving that toothsome tenderness they’re known for. The honeydew didn’t have much flavor at all—like the difference between drinking real fruit juice and a sparkling water with a mere hint of fruit essence. So, do yourself a favor the next time you're melon shopping, and tap into all of your senses.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI did not grow up going to summer camp. I did, however, consume enough American media to dream of sitting by a campfire making s’mores. I envisioned myself skewering marshmallows onto twigs, toasting them until puffy and golden, then sandwiching them between two graham crackers with a piece of chocolate, all while singing camp songs with my fellow Girl Scouts. The closest I ever got as a child was toasting marshmallows over my parents' gas stove, which resulted in either sad, under-toasted and unsatisfying marshmallows or singed marshmallows that caught on fire. (My parents were not pleased, and I was permanently banned from toasting marshmallows in the kitchen.)
As an adult, I have had the pleasure of experiencing a real campfire s’more: a gooey marshmallow and warm, just melted chocolate snug between crisp, slightly sweet graham crackers. As someone who lives in an apartment with no outdoor space, though, the campfires are few and far between, so I have to get creative when I'm hankering for those classic s'more flavors. That's where this icebox cake—a “set-it-and-forget-it” dessert that’s fun and celebratory—comes in. I make it by stacking coffee-soaked graham crackers, homemade chocolate mousse, and whipped cream in a loaf pan, then coating it in a generous layer of Italian meringue, which I hit with a kitchen torch to create a browned, marshmallow-like exterior. It’s a confection that evokes the flavors and textures of a s’more, no campfire or mosquitoes required. Here’s how to make it.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez7 Tips for Making a S'mores Icebox Cake That's Magical, Not MeltyLine your 9- by 4-inch loaf pan with plastic wrap. This cake is made in a standard loaf pan, like the kind you'd use for quick breads such as banana bread. For easy, neat unmolding, line your loaf pan with plastic wrap before you assemble your icebox cake. (For seamless unmolding, make sure the plastic hangs over the edge of the pan so you can easily grab onto it when unmolding. To unmold, remove the plastic wrap from the top of the cake, invert it onto a rimmed baking sheet, and remove the remaining plastic.)
Use layers of graham crackers for a balanced cake that's not too sweet. The wheaty, bran-filled crackers are an essential part of the classic campfire snack, but I also use them here because they lend an earthy flavor that complements the bitterness of the chocolate and sweetness of the Italian meringue.
Brush the graham crackers with coffee. Most pastry chefs brush their cakes with a layer of simple syrup to keep the sponge moist. Here, I use freshly brewed coffee, which softens the crackers and adds depth of flavor without making the icebox cake cloyingly sweet. Though freshly brewed drip coffee is nice, you can use cold brew, espresso, or whatever you have on hand, including coffee made with instant granules. The coffee can be warm, cold, or room temperature—all work just fine! (Use decaf if you’re worried about the small amount of caffeine.)
Take the time to make your own chocolate mousse. Unlike chocolate ganache, which becomes firm when refrigerated and would make the icebox cake too heavy, chocolate mousse is light and fluffy when cold, making it an ideal filling. Making your own mousse allows you to adjust for sweetness and choose the kind of chocolate you’d like to use. I recommend using chocolate between 64 and 70% cacao, as it results in a mousse that’s not too sweet, but if you prefer a sweeter mousse you could go as low as 40%. If you don’t feel like making your own mousse, you can opt for store-bought chocolate pudding, but your icebox cake will likely be on the sweeter side and the texture won't be quite as fluffy (but it will still be delicious).
Keep it cold. Refrigerating the cake for at least eight hours allows the crackers to soften to a cake-like texture and all the flavors of the chocolate and cream to meld together. Freeze the cake for at least an hour (and up to one week) after unmolding, as this will ensure it’s cold enough to frost, torch, and slice without melting.
Go with Italian meringue. It may seem a little "extra" to make an Italian meringue for an icebox cake, but I prefer the flavor and thickness of Italian meringue to marshmallow fluff. (But feel free to use marshmallow fluff if you prefer to skip this step.) Making an Italian meringue involves slowly pouring a hot sugar syrup into whipping egg whites, which cooks the egg whites and stabilizes it. As Serious Eats contributor Marissa Sertich Veile explained in her recipe for Italian meringue, sugar is hygroscopic, which means it “binds with water and holds it in place,” and “adds viscosity to the liquid whites, making the bubbles more stable.”
For the toastiest meringue, use a blowtorch. Using a blowtorch allows you to evenly toast the meringue without heating the cake too much. Though I haven’t tried it for this recipe so I can’t guarantee success, you can take a similar approach to that of a baked Alaska and toast the meringue in the oven with the broiler function if you don't own a blowtorch. Just be sure your cake is adequately frozen before doing so, or you’ll risk melting the cake. You can also leave the meringue un-toasted for a slightly less campfire-ish (but no less delicious!) cake. If you've opted for marshmallow fluff instead of meringue, you can torch it too.
For the Chocolate Mousse: In a large heatproof mixing bowl, combine chocolate and heavy cream. Set it over a saucepan filled with 1-inch barely simmering water and heat, stirring occasionally, until chocolate is fully melted, about 10 minutes. Whisk until homogeneous, then remove from heat and set on a heatproof work surface.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOnce chocolate mixture is warm to the touch, whisk in 3 egg yolks until well combined. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeanwhile, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine egg whites, salt, and espresso powder. Whisk on medium speed until egg whites begin to foam. Slowly and steadily stream in sugar. Continue to whisk until meringue is glossy and reaches medium-stiff peaks, about 8 minutes. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd 1/4 of the meringue to the chocolate mixture and gently fold until thoroughly combined. Add remaining meringue and continue to gently fold until meringue is almost entirely incorporated, being careful not to overmix. Transfer to large bowl; set aside in refrigerator. Wash and dry mixing bowl.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Whipped Cream: In the now-clean bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine cream, sugar, and salt. Whip on medium-high speed until medium-stiff peaks form, about 2 minutes. (Alternatively, combine cream, sugar, and salt in a large mixing bowl. Using a hand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat on medium speed until medium stiff peaks form, about 3 minutes.) Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo Assemble: Line a 9- by 4-inch loaf pan with plastic wrap. Using a flexible spatula or offset spatula, spread about 1/2 cup (75g) of chocolate mousse on the bottom. Cover surface with 1 layer of graham crackers; you may have to break the cookies up to get them to fit snugly. Gently press them into mousse. Using a pastry brush, brush graham crackers generously with coffee. Using a flexible or offset spatula, evenly spread 1/2 cup (50g) whipped cream across crackers.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTop whipped cream with another layer of crackers and brush with coffee. Using a flexible or offset spatula, evenly spread 1/2 cup of chocolate mousse across crackers. Repeat layering, alternating crackers, mousse and whipped cream as needed, ending with a layer of graham crackers brushed with coffee. (You should have 4 Graham cracker layers.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until cake is cohesive and chilled, at least 3 hours and up to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLine a 9- by 13- inch rimmed baking sheet with foil. Remove plastic from top of cake and invert cake onto rimmed baking sheet. Gently peel away remaining plastic, and transfer to freezer until firm enough to slice, about 1 hour or up to 1 week.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeanwhile, prepare the Italian meringue: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, begin whisking egg whites on low speed. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine sugar and water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook until sugar syrup registers 240ºF (115ºC) on an instant-read or candy thermometer, about 4 minutes. (Remove from heat immediately once sugar syrup reaches temperature.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIncrease mixer speed to medium and mix until soft peaks form. With the mixer running on medium speed, carefully and slowly drizzle the hot sugar syrup into the bowl along the side, avoiding hitting the whisk attachment. Increase speed to high and whip until stiff peaks form and meringue is no longer hot, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRemove cake from freezer. Using a flexible or offset spatula, frost cake with Italian meringue, using the back of a spoon or spatula to make swooshes. Using a blowtorch, torch meringue 1- to 2- inches away from the surface of the meringue until evenly browned. (To toast meringue in the oven, see notes.) Hold both ends of the foil and gently transfer cake to a cutting board. Wiggle a chef’s knife or long offset spatula under the cake to loosen it from the foil and gently pull foil to remove.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing a hot knife, slice cake into 8 pieces and serve. (For cleaner cuts, run knife under warm water and dry knife with a clean kitchen towel before portioning each slice.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentWhisk, stand mixer, 9- by 4-inch loaf pan, pastry brush instant read thermometer, flexible or offset spatula, butane blowtorch
NotesIf you don’t feel like making chocolate mousse from scratch, you can substitute with store-bought chocolate pudding, but the resulting icebox cake will likely be sweeter.
If you don’t own a blowtorch, you can toast the meringue in the oven. However, it is crucial that the icebox cake is fully frozen before you frost it with meringue, otherwise the mousse and cream will melt. Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 500ºF (260ºC). After coating the cake with meringue, transfer rimmed baking sheet with icebox cake to oven and bake until meringue is golden brown, about 5 minutes.
If you don’t feel like making Italian meringue, you can substitute with store-bought marshmallow fluff and torch it for a similar result.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe unfrosted icebox cake can be frozen for up to 1 week before slicing and serving. Proceed with step 10 when ready to serve.
Sliced portions can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
Serious Eats / Getty Images-PicturePartnersThere are two kinds of disappointment in the kitchen. One is when you know your subpar dinner is your own fault, and had you taken just a little more care you wouldn't be choking down such an unsatisfying meal. The other is when the problem lies with subpar ingredients that fail to be what you know they could and should. I have experienced this at times with store-bought paneer, a convenience product that too often cooks up hard and rubbery. It's especially jarring if you've ever eaten good quality, freshly made paneer and know just how wonderfully milky and light it can be.
Serious Eats / Swetha SivakumarBut does that mean we have to either accept chewy nubs of refrigerator-aisle cheese or make paneer from scratch? Is there nothing we can do to transform store-bought paneer back to a better version of itself? You know the answer is that we can. But before I tell you how, let's find out why this happens in the first place.
The Science of Rubbery PaneerPaneer is a fresh cheese made not with rennet but by acidifying milk with a sour ingredient like lemon or lime juice. The result is essentially a casein-whey protein complex with fat, moisture, lactose, and minerals trapped inside. In India, buffalo milk is traditionally used to make paneer (similar to traditional Italian mozzarella), and the resulting paneer is softer, spongier and more porous than paneer made from cow's milk. That's because buffalo milk has almost double the fat of cow's milk (7-8% vs 3-4%, respectively), and fat matters.
When the milk is coagulated using the sour agent, it causes proteins in the milk to bond. But fat can interfere with the strength of those bonds, and the more fat there is, the less strongly the proteins bond. In practice, what that means is higher fat equals softer mouthfeel. In the US, buffalo milk is not widely available.
Serious Eats / Swetha SivakumarRight away we have our first and biggest problem. Because the majority of the paneer sold in retail stores in the United States uses cow's milk, the resulting paneer does not have that same soft, rich texture. If you are able to find paneer that states “100% buffalo milk” on its packaging, it is going to be a much better quality than other normal supermarket brands. In addition to the fat content of the paneer, other factors can also influence the texture of the resultant paneer. When paneer is made, it is pressed to expel excess liquid, but the temperature at which the curds are compressed, the pressure applied, and the time allotted for pressing the paneer can all contribute to an even drier, firmer paneer. These are not factors the consumer has control over, but that doesn't mean we can't do something to make it better.
How to Soften Store-Bought PaneerThe first thing you'll want to determine is whether your paneer needs to be soaked at all. Generally speaking, any store-bought paneer made from cow's milk will benefit from being soaked, but even some store-bought buffalo milk paneer can use some softening. One easy way to tell is if the paneer offers noticeable resistance when cut or bitten; if it does, consider soaking it.
Many people say that the best way to do this is by soaking it in warm water before adding it to a dish, the idea being that the paneer will absorb water and soften as a consequence. But does this work—does the paneer actually absorb water? To find out, I experimented by soaking different packets of store-bought paneer in cool water, hot water, and for different intervals of time from 15 minutes up to overnight in the refrigerator, and then documented the changes in their weight to see if they absorbed water, and if so, how much.
Serious Eats / Swetha SivakumarOverall, I measured only about a 2% increase in the weight of the paneer after a full hour of soaking. If left overnight, I recorded at most a 4% increase in mass—an improvement, but not a remarkable one.
In a couple of instances, the weight actually dropped by one gram. I was surprised by this, and have concluded that it's either the result of a weighing error due to the resolution of my scale, or syneresis (the water released by cheese) when there is a change in temperature. Submerging the paneer in hot water, I should note, did make the paneer feel more flexible compared to the cold, refrigerated version; however, here again, the increase in moisture content was minimal.
Soaking paneer overnight in the refrigerator resulted in a 4% increase in moisture content, which did deliver a desired softening effect—a clear improvement. But having to soak paneer overnight to get any benefit isn't what we want, since it's not practical. Paneer recipes, especially ones you're planning to make with store-bought paneer, should usually be on the quick and easy side, so having to plan a day in advance just to make dinner isn't going to help all that much.
So, why doesn't the soaking method work well on plain paneer? It has to do with the structure of the paneer: The less porous the cheese is, the less space there is for the water to diffuse into. And as we learned above, cow's milk has less fat than buffalo milk and therefore a more tightly bonded protein structure.
Unfortunately, what this means is that the very cheeses that are most in need of a softening treatment are the tight, rubbery ones that are least able to absorb water and soften. Therefore, if the paneer feels hard and rubbery initially, it is unlikely to absorb much water, even after soaking overnight, and thus won't soften significantly.
Unlocking the Secret to Softer Paneer: FryingAt this point it may sound like we're stuck: Paneer needs more voids inside it to absorb water and soften, but the paneer most in need of this treatment is the least able to benefit from it. But guess what—there's a way to create spaces inside paneer, and it happens to also be a method that improves the paneer's flavor!
By frying paneer, the exterior develops a beautiful brown crust (thanks to the wonderful Maillard reaction), leading not only to crisping on the surface but also more complex flavor. (Be careful when frying paneer, it can sometimes cause a lot of spluttering if the oil is too hot. Maintain the oil between 350 and 400°F [180-200°C], not higher. Also note, you can save oil by shallow frying instead of deep frying, though your will likely be not as good.)
Serious Eats / Swetha SivakumarWhat's even more of interest to us, though is what's happening inside the paneer when we fry it. Since oil frying temperatures are much higher than water's boiling point of 212°F (100°C), the water in the paneer boils as soon as it's submerged in the oil. As the water inside begins to boil and turn to steam, the steam travels outwards, exiting the paneer in the form of bubbles that leave tiny craters behind. The immediate consequence of this is even further moisture loss (about 15% of the paneer's weight), and even tighter and more rubbery nubbins of cheese.
Here’s the fun part! After frying, if you dunk this steam-ravaged paneer in water, it quickly absorbs the surrounding water, not only replacing the water that was lost, but filling all those little craters left behind by the fleeing steam bubbles.
You can see this play out in the numbers above: If you add fried paneer to water, it rapidly absorbs water and rebounds back to its original weight within 10 minutes. That’s nearly a 15% rapid increase in water absorption just from the voids left behind by departing steam. Within 30 minutes, there is, on average, a further 4% increase in water weight compared to the original—that's the same amount of moisture gained as the overnight soaking method, but in a fraction the time.
Soaking fried paneer is not only tasty due to the browning, but it also has a fantastic texture. This hack, recommended by many Indian chefs, is particularly effective in recipes where fried paneer is added to sauces such as matar paneer and palak paneer. (Not all paneer dishes benefit from fried paneer. If you need to grate paneer for paneer burji or a paratha stuffing, you should use fresh paneer as-is.) But for those recipes where fried paneer is a welcome addition, just soak it in water for 30 minutes after frying before adding it to your sauce. It works!
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf you walk into my kitchen at 10 p.m. on any given evening, chances are you’ll find me at my kitchen counter eating spoonfuls of lemon curd straight out of the jar. Creamy, tart, and just sweet enough, it satisfies my desire for dessert when I don’t feel like cooking. And when I do feel like whipping up dessert, the condiment is just as handy. I use it to fill thumbprint cookies and tart shells, pour it on top of a buttery crust to make lemon bars, and dollop it onto crêpes, pancakes, and vanilla ice cream. Some mornings, I even swirl it into plain yogurt for breakfast. Beyond its deliciousness and versatility, lemon curd is also wonderful for how quickly and easily it comes together, as the recipe I'm sharing here proves.
Lemons “became a star of the dessert world in Europe after the mid-seventeenth century, when sugar became readily available at a reasonable cost,” according to Lemon: A Global History by Toby Sonneman. A popular way to enjoy lemons was in the form of a custard, which Sonneman says was eventually called a curd. Cooks filled cakes and pies with lemon curd, and diners enjoyed the condiment with their scones, crumpets, and toast, among other starchy delights.
A quick glance at recipes from centuries past reveals that there were many ways to prepare lemon curd. Some were closer to that of an actual curd: In Charles Carter’s 1730 The Complete Practical Cook, a recipe for lemon curd instructs readers to “chip two or three lemons” into a quart of cream or milk, let stand overnight, boil, “turn it with the juice of lemons,” then strain out the curd before incorporating sugar and orange-blossom water if so desired. Other recipes, like the one in Elizabeth David’s 1984 An Omelette and a Glass of Wine, recommend crumbling ladyfingers or ground almonds into the curd before cooking to help thicken the mixture.
Another interesting method appears in May Byron’s 1917 Puddings Book. Byron’s recipe is perhaps the simplest I’ve come across, and involves plopping butter, three egg yolks, lemon juice and zest, and sugar into a jar, sealing it, then cooking it in a saucepan of boiling water until thickened.
Most recipes today, however, are closer to that of a custard in which you cook lemon juice, eggs, sugar, and butter together—either directly in a saucepan or using a double boiler—until it’s lusciously thick. Some recipes are fussier than others, with some calling for blenders, a slow cooker, or even an electric mixer. You really don’t need all of those gadgets for a superb lemon curd, though—and with my tips below, you’ll be able to whip up a velvety lemon curd that has just the right balance of sweet and tart.
7 Tips for Making Better Lemon CurdUse both lemon juice and zest. Lemon peels contain many flavorful oils, so using them together with lemon juice not only helps you use as much of the fruit as possible, but produces a curd with a more pronounced citrus flavor.
Toss your lemon zest with sugar. Quickly macerating the zest with sugar helps to draw out the rind’s oils, releasing their bright, citrusy flavor and aroma. It’s the same technique I use in my strawberry lemonade and how many cooks and bartenders prepare oleo-saccharum, a lemon syrup made by muddling fruit’s peels with sugar.
Use freshly squeezed lemon juice. It may be tempting to reach for bottled lemon juice—because, yes, a whole cup of fresh lemon juice is a lot to squeeze out by hand—but it’s absolutely worth using fresh lemons. So much of the curd’s flavor comes from the juice, and you’ll get the most vibrant flavor from fresh citrus.
Add a few yolks for richness. Some recipes for curd call for whole eggs, others call for just yolks, and yet others call for a combination of whole eggs and yolks. Because yolks are plentiful with fat, they yield a curd that’s both richer in flavor and texture. However, curds made with just yolks tend to be thicker and have a more pronounced egginess, but using a combination of whole eggs and yolks means you get a smooth curd that allows the flavor of the citrus to shine.
Whisk well. Some pastry chefs are staunchly against whisking curd, as they believe that whisking would aerate the curd too much. I haven’t found that to be true, and still swear by using a whisk, as it is a more efficient way to stir and reduces the risk of your eggs cooking too quickly and curdling your curd. Whisk slowly and frequently, and you won’t have to worry about lumps or accidentally aerating your lemon curd.
Cook over direct heat and strain after cooking. Many people swear by cooking their lemon curd in a double boiler, as they believe it prevents lumpy, overcooked curd, but I prefer to cook mine over direct heat because it’s more straightforward and, as long as you continue stirring and avoid cranking the heat, your curd will be just fine. And if a few small lumps of cooked egg do form, straining is an extra precaution that will guarantee two things: a silky smooth curd and peace of mind.
Don’t be afraid of the salt. As I often say, desserts need seasoning, too! A touch of salt brings everything together and highlights the nuances of the lemons, eggs, and butter. There will be no salty curd, I promise—just well-seasoned curd that tastes exactly as it’s supposed to: sweet, tangy, and delicious enough that you’ll want to eat it straight from the jar.
In a medium bowl, combine lemon zest with granulated sugar, and use your fingers to rub them together until the mixture becomes fragrant, about 30 seconds. Set aside for 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large bowl, set up an ice bath by partially filling it with a combination of cold water and ice. Set aside.
In a medium saucepan, bring lemon juice to a simmer over medium heat, about 3 minutes. Add eggs, yolks, and salt to bowl with lemon zest and sugar, and whisk together until smooth.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSlowly drizzle heated lemon juice into yolk mixture, whisking constantly, until all of it has been incorporated. Return mixture to saucepan and cook over medium heat, whisking slowly but frequently, until mixture thickens slightly and registers 170ºF (77ºC) on an instant-read thermometer, about 6 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk in butter until melted and curd is smooth.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezStrain curd through a fine-mesh strainer set over a medium bowl. Using a flexible spatula, scrape any residual curd from the bottom of the stainer into the bowl. Press plastic wrap against the surface of the lemon curd and transfer bowl to prepared ice bath. Chill for 30 minutes, then refrigerate until cold, about 1 hour. Transfer to an airtight container for later use.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentMedium saucepan, whisk, fine-mesh strainer, plastic wrap
Make-Ahead and StorageLemon curd can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days. Lemon curd can be frozen for up to 3 months in an airtight container; to use, thaw in refrigerator overnight.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt Glaze, Prop Stylist: Priscilla Montiel, Food Stylist: Julian HensarlingA well made Southern tomato pie contains little more than fresh plump tomatoes, a mixture of cheese, mayonnaise (it’s gotta be Duke’s), and chopped fresh herbs such as basil. Thoughtfully layered and baked in a flaky crust until bubbly, it’s the essence of a good, hot summer. Like any Southern tomato pie worth its salt, this recipe superbly showcases the fact that tomatoes and mayo are perfect partners.
Savory tomato pies have roots in the South at least as far back as the 1830s, when they often included a meat, like beef or mutton, that was eventually left out of most recipes. There are even sweet versions of tomato pie, though less common, featuring under-ripe green tomatoes tossed with butter, sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg in a dessert that's somewhat similar to apple pie. According to southern food historian David Shields’ Southern Provisions: The Creation and Revival of a Cuisine, you find savory tomato pie throughout the Carolinas, especially the flat coastal areas of the low country. It’s a filling way to make the most out of summer’s bounty of tomatoes.
This classic version of Southern tomato pie we're sharing here has a certain retro feel, like something you'd be delighted to find alongside the green bean casserole and cheese balls at a 1950s potluck. Bright and sweet tomatoes are seasoned and bathed with mayo and a blend of mozzarella and cheddar cheeses to make a humble pie that’s the perfect main course for an end-of-summer supper or leisurely weekend brunch. Just add a simple green salad to complete the meal.
While this tomato pie is relatively easy to make, there are a few challenges to be aware of. Juicy ripe tomatoes can quickly turn the flaky pie crust soggy, and the mayonnaise and cheese filling needs to be properly seasoned to complement the tomatoes' fresh, sweet flavor. We enlisted the help of recipe developer Marrianne Williams at our Birmingham, Alabama test kitchen to develop a juicy, rich Southern tomato pie recipe that avoided these common pitfalls. Read on for her tips and to get the full recipe for Southern tomato pie.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeTips for the Best Southern Tomato PieChoose ripe, in-season tomatoes. As clichéd as it may sound, this pie really is a celebration of summer’s tomato bounty. We want to reinforce that to make a great tomato pie, you need to start with fresh, in-season tomatoes. Skip those sad plastic-packed supermarket tomatoes and hold out for peak summer tomatoes from your local farmers market or even your own backyard. A larger heirloom variety such as Brandywine or Amana orange will work well here.
Salt and drain the tomatoes before baking. We at Serious Eats firmly believe that salt can improve your tomatoes, and this tomato pie is a prime example of when it is worth taking the additional time to salt your tomatoes before using them in the pie.
As Kenji points out in his panzanella salad recipe, salting the tomatoes draws liquid out of them through the process of osmosis—that is, the tendency of a liquid (tomato juice) to migrate across a membrane (the tomato's cell walls) from an area of low solute concentration (within the cells) to an area of high solute concentration (outside of the cells). Simply put, salt draws out excess liquid, which concentrates the tomatoes' flavor. Drawing out excess moisture also ensures that the pie retains a creamy, sliceable texture and doesn't get soggy. Make sure to flip the tomatoes occasionally and to pat them thoroughly dry before layering into the pie.
Par-bake the crust before filling the pie. We blind bake the pie shell before filling for the same reason we take the time to salt the tomatoes—it mitigates the risk of a soggy pie bottom. Pre-baking the shaped but empty pie dough also ensures that the filling is bubbly and hot at the same time the crust turns crisp and golden. When we initially tested baking the pie without pre-baking the crust, the filling cooked before the pie dough fully baked. To guarantee the pie dough remains flat and smooth once baked, don’t forget to lightly prick the bottom of the pie shell before lining it with aluminum foil and pie weights. Pricking the pie shell is known as “docking” the dough; the small holes allow excess steam to escape from the dough as it bakes, which prevents air bubbles from forming and helps the dough bake more evenly.
Use a blend of three cheeses in the filling. To create a rich, cohesive and flavorful filling, Williams found that a combination of three cheeses worked best. The aged white cheddar is nutty, the yellow cheddar is sharp, and the mozzarella cheese helps bind everything together into a cohesive mixture once melted.
Stick with Duke’s mayo if possible. We don’t usually call out a specific brand of mayonnaise in a recipe, but this thick and tangy Southern mayo really is the best pairing with tomatoes, according to Williams and our various testers who tasted this pie. If it’s a Southern tomato pie, it’s gotta have Duke’s in it. But, if Duke’s isn’t an option where you live, feel free to sub in your preferred mayo brand. A pinch of garlic powder and a bit of Dijon enhance the filling’s savory, tangy flavor, and you can always use a bit more of each in the recipe if you're going with a less tangy mayo than Duke's.
Wait before slicing into the pie. When this savory cheese pie comes out of the oven, it’s tempting to slice into it right away when piping hot and gooey, but hold off. If you cut into the pie while it’s still too hot, you won’t be serving pie slices, but rather molten cheese and tomato blobs. We recommend waiting at least an hour before slicing. Even after sitting for an hour on the counter, the pie will still have a warm, soft cheese filling, but it will be both firm enough to hold its shape when sliced and cool enough to enjoy without burning the roof of your mouth.
Place tomato slices on a wire rack-lined rimmed baking sheet; season both sides of tomatoes with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Let sit for 15 minutes. Pat dry with paper towels. Flip and continue to let sit, patting dry with paper towels and turning every 15 minutes, until a generous amount of liquid has released, about 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeMeanwhile, adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 400°F(205℃). Lightly prick chilled pie shell all over bottom in 1/2-inch intervals. Line pie shell with a double layer of a 14-inch square pieces of parchment paper or aluminum foil, loosley folding over the edges to prevent burning. Fill with pie weights, dried beans, or granulated sugar. Transfer to a parchment or foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and bake until the crust begins to brown around the edges, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from oven and carefully remove liner and pie weights from par-baked crust and bake the now uncovered crust until the bottom is baked through and set,and just beginning to turn golden brown, about 2 to 5 minutes. Set aside and let cool, about 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeWhile crust cools, in a large stainless-steel skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion and 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned and softened, 10 to 15 minutes, adding 1 to 2 tablespoons of water if onions start to stick to skillet or get too dark. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate, and set aside.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeIn a medium bowl, stir together mayonnaise, yellow cheddar, white cheddar, mustard, garlic powder, pepper, egg, and 3/4 cup (3 ounces) of the mozzarella until well combined. Spread half of the mayonnaise mixture (about 1 cup) over the bottom of the cooled pie crust. Pat tomatoes dry one last time, and arrange half of the tomato slices in a single layer on top of mayonnaise mixture (tomatoes should be snug but not overlapping). Scatter half of the cooked onions over the tomatoes. Spread the remaining half of mayonnaise mixture over onions and tomatoes. Layer remaining tomato slices and onions over mayonnaise mixture. Sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 cup (1 ounce) mozzarella.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeBake the tomato pie until the cheese is melted and top is puffed and browned, 35 to 45 minutes. If edges of the crust darken too quickly, place aluminum foil or a pie shield around crust edges to prevent burning. Let cool on a wire rack for at least 1 hour before slicing. Garnish with basil, and serve warm or at room temperature.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeSpecial Equipment9-inch pie plate, rolling pin, wire rack, rimmed baking sheet
Make-Ahead and Storage
Photograph: Vicky WasikThe rich custard flavor of French buttercream gives this pistachio frosting a gelato-like quality that's hard to resist, with a hint of caramel from toasted sugar, and splash of liqueur to add a complementary note (we love how the herbs in Cardamaro underscore the grassiness of pistachio, while Maraschino can play up its fruity/nutty side, but even rum works in a pinch).
Homemade pistachio paste gives this frosting the best color, consistency, and flavor, particularly when made with Sicilian pistachios. Take care when working with commercial pastes, as they can vary considerably from brand to brand, due to various proportions of added sugar and oil.
For a Stand Mixer With a Bowl-Lift Design: Tear off a long strip of foil and crumple it into a thick ring. Place it in the bottom of a 3-quart saucier or similarly large, wide pot, and fill with roughly 1 1/2 inches water. Place over high heat until bubbling-hot, then adjust the temperature to maintain a gentle simmer. In a stainless steel stand mixer bowl, combine egg yolks, sugar, Cardamaro or other liquid ingredient, and salt. Place bowl over steaming water, stirring and scraping constantly with a flexible spatula, until egg yolk syrup reaches 155°F (68°C). This should take only about 5 minutes; if the process seems to be moving slowly, simply turn up the heat. Transfer bowl to a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment.
For a Stand Mixer With a Tilt-Head Design: Fill a large pot with a few inches of water. Place over high heat until bubbling-hot. In a large heatproof glass or ceramic bowl, combine egg yolks, sugar, Cardamaro or other liquid ingredient, and salt. Set bowl over the steaming water, then cook, stirring and scraping constantly with a flexible spatula, until egg yolk syrup register 155°F (68°C); this should take no longer than 8 minutes; if the process seems to be moving slowly, simply turn up the heat. Scrape mixture into stand mixer bowl and fit stand mixer with a whisk attachment.
Whip the egg yolk mixture at high speed until fluffy, stiff, and beginning to ball up around the whisk, about 8 minutes. With mixer still running, add butter a few tablespoons at a time, waiting only a second or two between additions. In the end, the buttercream should be thick, creamy, and soft but not runny, around 72°F (22°C). When the consistency has been properly adjusted (see troubleshooting guide below), begin whipping in the pistachio paste a few tablespoons at a time, to achieve the desired intensity of flavor. Additionally, the buttercream can be seasoned with additional salt or other extracts to taste.
Use buttercream right away or transfer to a large zipper-lock bag, press out the air, and seal. Buttercream can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks and frozen for up to several months. (The main issue with longer storage in the freezer is odor absorption, not spoilage.) Rewarm to 72°F and re-whip before using.
Troubleshooting: If warmer than 74°F (23°C), the buttercream will be soft and loose; pop it in the fridge for 15 minutes and re-whip to help it thicken and cool. If colder than 68°F (20°C), the buttercream will be firm and dense, making it difficult to spread over cakes and slow to melt on the tongue, creating a greasy mouthfeel. To warm, briefly set over a pan of steaming water, just until you see the edges melting slightly, then re-whip to help it soften and warm. French buttercream can be fixed according to the same rules for Swiss buttercream. For more information, see the troubleshooting guide and video here.
Special EquipmentLarge pot, flexible spatula, digital thermometer, stand mixer
NotesThough technically optional, using quick-toasted sugar will dramatically tame the sweetness of this buttercream, while also adding subtle depth of flavor. It's a lovely touch for basic vanilla, but not nearly as vital when stronger flavors, like chocolate or spices, come into play.
Make-Ahead and StorageButtercream can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks and frozen for up to several months. Rewarm to 72°F and re-whip before using.
This Recipe Appears In* Silky French Buttercream Without All the Fuss * A No-Fuss Chocolate Yule Log That’s Easy to Roll
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThis is one of the world's most forgiving desserts, and it's always a crowd-pleaser. The streusel acts as a crumbly press-in crust as well as a topping.
Lots of substitutions will work here: You can use spelt flour in place of the whole wheat (or use only all-purpose flour); use a different fruit jam; or try another nut. You can also try adding various spices. Take this recipe and make it yours.
Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 9- by 13-inch baking pan and line it with parchment paper so that the paper overhangs the long sides of the pan by about 1 inch.
In a large mixing bowl, stir together whole wheat flour, all-purpose flour, oats, granulated sugar, brown sugar, salt, and baking soda. Pour 1 cup melted butter over streusel mixture and stir until ingredients are evenly moistened.
Firmly press all but 3/4 cup of streusel in an even layer into prepared baking pan. Spread jam on top, leaving a 1/4-inch border all around. Press remaining streusel into clumps, add walnuts, and toss. Sprinkle walnut streusel all over jam.
Bake until top is golden brown, about 40 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely, about 2 hours.
Using overhanging parchment paper, lift dessert from baking pan and transfer to a work surface. Cut into bars. Bars can be stored at room temperature for up to 3 days.
Special Equipment9- by 13-inch baking pan, wire rack
Serious Eats / Qi AiWith their crunchy fried fish complemented by sweet cabbage slaw and a spicy serrano salsa, Baja fish tacos are perfect for lunch on a hot day. I have eaten countless wonderful fish tacos on trips to La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur, and there are also great fish tacos where I live in Mazatlán, just across the Gulf of California from the tip of the Baja Peninsula. While I prefer to eat fish tacos somewhere with an ocean breeze, with the recipe below you can enjoy them even if you're landlocked. Pair them with a light-bodied beer like a pilsner or lager or a Coke—the drink of choice in many Mazatlán taquerías.
Serious Eats / Qi AiHistory of Baja Fish TacosThese tacos were likely first served in Ensenada, Baja California, in the early 1960s, according to Ensenada’s former city historian, Arnulfo Estrada, among other sources. It started with a Sinaloan man nicknamed “El Bachigualato” who worked in Ensenada’s famous Mercado Negro fish market. Bachigualato would fry up the day’s catch for his own consumption while he worked. Over time, fishermen and other market-goers began to ask him for some of his fried fish, which he would share with them on a tortilla. Fried fish tacos were new to the area, but were clearly delicious since they quickly caught on.
Today, fish tacos can be found throughout the states of Baja California and Baja California Sur, as well as across mainland Mexico and the US. The recipe I am sharing here is by Francisco Gerardo Gaztelum Laredo, known as Paco, a second-generation taquero in Mazatlán, Sinaloa. Paco studied to be a teacher, earning a doctorate in education before taking over his family’s celebrated taquería, Tacos El Veneno, in Mazatlán several years ago. He’s familiar with these slightly sweet, Baja-style fish tacos partly from his travels to Baja California Sur, but he learned to fry fish tacos (which are common in many areas of Mexico) from growing up in the family business, and he gives his family a lot of credit for teaching him what he knows about cooking consistently crisp fish tacos.
Serious Eats / Qi AiBachigualato’s original fish tacos were nothing more than seasoned fish that was fried and then served on a warm tortilla. But since then the recipe has evolved. Fish tacos in Baja can be beer-battered, dry-dredged, or grilled, among other options, and are served with a plethora of topping options—a creamy coleslaw and a spicy fresh salsa are standard.
This Baja-style taco recipe uses a batter made with pancake mix, which is typical of Baja. Paco points out that the Baja region developed this battered and fried style of taco to cater to American tourist tastes, who frequent the region. The dried mix is thinned with soda water and creates a light, crisp coating on the fish when deep fried. It's served with a quick and easy coleslaw and a hot fresh serrano chile salsa.
Serious Eats / Qi AiPaco’s salsa de chile serrano is a special Tacos El Veneno recipe that he generously shared with me. Salsa recipes throughout Sinaloa are often as jealously guarded as state fair chili recipes in my home state of Ohio, so we’re lucky! It’s a simple but stunning sauce, combining deep-fried serrano chiles with salt, garlic, onion, and oil.
A mayonnaise-ketchup sauce, avocado, and various toppings complete the tacos. The combination of the fried fish with all of the toppings guarantees each bite is crisp, creamy, spicy, and bright. To understand the recipe, I first watched Paco prepare it before then preparing it myself repeatedly with his guidance. Read on for Paco’s tips for making taquero-worthy Baja fish tacos at home and to get the full recipe.
Paco's Tips for Making Great Baja Fish TacosChoose firm fish fillets that are free of bones. In the early iterations of his fish tacos, Bachigualato used angelshark, an unconventional choice even at the time. But its firm meat held up well to frying and there was no risk of biting down on a sharp fish bone (sharks have cartilage rather than bones). For this recipe, we’ll be skipping the shark. Instead, any firm white fish such as cod, haddock, flounder, or tilapia works well. Swordfish is another traditional choice that’s used throughout Sinaloa.
Soak the fish in a salt and vinegar solution. Before battering the fish, Paco briefly marinates it in a brine of salt and vinegar. He explains that this quick soak salts the fish evenly throughout and minimizes any fishy flavor, leaving the fried fish mild, juicy, and well seasoned. Just make sure not to let the fish sit in the vinegar for longer than 10 minutes, otherwise the vinegar will start to denature the protein structure in the fish, and “cook” the fish, making the flesh too firm, similar to ceviche.
Serious Eats / Qi AiUse pancake mix for the batter. The first thing I learned from Paco is to use store-bought pancake mix for the base of the batter. It’s not only easier than making batter from scratch—less portioning and scooping of ingredients—but he explained that the premade mix, with its measured added sugar, gave the fried fish its characteristic touch of sweetness, differentiating Baja-style tacos like these from other tacos capeados de pescado (batter-fried fish tacos). But instead of whisking the boxed mix with milk and eggs like you would for actual pancakes, here the dried blend is mixed with seltzer and a squeeze of yellow mustard, resulting in a fairly thick batter that clings to the fish evenly (the batter should be slightly thinner in consistency to actual pancake batter).
Monitor and regulate the frying oil. As with anything deep-fried, it’s important to use a lot of oil (enough to fill the pot about two inches deep) and to keep it hot: about 350 to 375℉. While I recommend using a thermometer to monitor the oil temperature, Paco monitors his oil temperature without a thermometer, dropping a strip of tortilla into the oil to check the temperature before beginning to fry the battered fish. He knows the oil is hot enough when the tortilla puffs and the oil around it bubbles when dropped into the pot. Once the oil was at temperature,I could see ripples of heat deep within the pan.
Serious Eats / Qi AiThe oil should react in the same way to each battered fish strip: a delicate explosion of bubbles that gradually slows down as water in the batter turns into vapor and bubbles away. Paco says that if you stop getting that characteristic explosion of bubbles when you add a fish strip, it’s time to turn up the heat and wait for the oil to get back up to its optimum temperature.
While Paco is a pro and can rely on his tortilla strip technique for monitoring the oil’s temperature, I still recommend a digital thermometer to check your frying oil temperature at home, and adjust the heat as needed to maintain the oil temperature between 375 to 350℉ while frying. You'll know that the fish strips are done when they turn golden-brown and there are fewer bubbles.
Top with a spicy fresh green salsa. Paco’s trick to the salsa is quickly frying its ingredients to soften them before blending and to deepen their flavors. When everything is blended with the oil, it transforms in a creamy, smooth hot sauce perfect for spooning down the length of each taco. Frying sweetens the onion, softens the garlic’s flavor, and tames the chile’s raw heat, and when blended with a neutral oil, the serrano’s deep-fried flavor and spice stands out without overpowering the fried fish.
Don’t forget the slaw. A simple fresh cabbage-based coleslaw is a must for Baja-style tacos. According to Paco, most professional taqueros use green cabbage because it’s cheaper, but earthy purple cabbage is more striking in flavor and color. Paco prepares his slaw with shredded carrot and raisins for a little extra sweetness to counter the spicy serrano salsa.
Serious Eats / Qi AiServe with a variety of toppings. While the original Ensenada tacos were just fried fish on a tortilla, over time it’s become standard to serve the tacos with a variety of toppings, like most other tacos.To counter the heat of the serrano salsa, Paco serves his with a quick mayonnaise-ketchup sauce, a standard topping found on restaurant tables throughout Baja. But if you prefer, you could also whip up some chiplotle mayonnaise for added smoky flavor. Avocado should find its way into the taco in some form, whether it’s sliced, guacamole or a thinner, taquero-style avocado salsa. To keep the colorful toppings coming, add pico de gallo and/or pickled red onions, a squeeze of lime, and your favorite hot sauce. Serve it all up on a hot corn tortilla and enjoy it with an ice cold drink.
For the mayonnaise dressing: In a small bowl, whisk mayonnaise and ketchup to combine; set aside until ready to serve.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor the coleslaw: In a large bowl, whisk the mayonnaise, Mexican crema, and black pepper to combine. Add the cabbage, carrot, and raisins, and toss to combine. Season to taste with salt; set aside or refrigerate until ready to serve.
Serious Eats / Qi AiAdd oil to a large Dutch oven or wok (It should measure at least 2-inches deep) and heat over medium-high heat until it reaches 375℉. Line a wire rack with paper towels and set in a rimmed baking sheet; set aside.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor the fish: While heating the oil, in a large non-reactive bowl, toss fish sticks with kosher salt and vinegar and let sit at room temperature until the surface of the translucent fish begins to whiten, 5 to 10 minutes, then immediately drain the fish and place into the now-empty large bowl. (Do not let fish sit in vinegar for longer than 10 minutes.)
Serious Eats / Qi AiWhile the fish is marinating, in a medium bowl, combine the pancake mix, flour, onion flakes, garlic powder, ground pepper, and salt. Add the egg, soda water, and yellow mustard and whisk until batter is smooth. Pour the batter over the fish sticks and gently toss to coat the fish sticks evenly.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor the serrano salsa: Once the oil reaches 375℉, carefully add the serrano chiles, onion, and garlic and fry until the onion and garlic beging to soften and the chiles skin is crackly and browned, removing with a spider skimmer or slotted spoon as they finish cooking. This will take about 2 minutes for the garlic and onion, and 4 to 6 minutes for the chiles. Monitor and maintain oil temperature at 375℉.
Serious Eats / Qi AiIn a food processor, blend chiles, garlic, and onion. While blending, slowly add 2 tablespoons of oil and 1 teaspoon kosher salt, until the mixture forms a creamy emulsion. Season with additional salt to taste; set aside until ready to serve.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor frying the fish: Once oil returns to 375℉, working with 6 to 8 pieces fish per batch, remove fish from batter (making sure each piece is well coated), allowing excess to drip back into the bowl, and using tongs or your hands, add one at a time to the hot oil, briefly dragging fish along the surface of the oil to prevent sticking. Adjust burner, as needed, to maintain oil oil temperature between 350 and 375℉. Fry fish, stirring as little as possible to not dislodge the delicate batter, if needed, gently flip and separate fish sticks for even frying, until golden brown and bubbling begins to subside, 3 to 7 minutes. If they are frying unevenly, you can spoon hot oil over the frying fish. Using a spider skimmer or large slotted spoon, carefully remove fish from oil and transfer to the prepared wire rack. Return oil to 375℉ and repeat frying the fish in batches of 6 to 8 fish sticks at a time.
Serious Eats / Qi AiTo assemble: To assemble 1 taco, spread a warmed tortilla with prepared mayonnaise dressing or chipotle mayo, add fried fish, and serve with an array of toppings options: the prepared coleslaw, prepared serrano salsa, pico de gallo, lime, and avocado.
Serious Eats / Qi AiBaja Shrimp Tacos VariationSubstitute 1 ½ pounds peeled and deveined large shrimp (21-25 or 26-30 count) for the fish. Omit the vinegar brine step and instead toss the shrimp with 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt , 1/3 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder before transferring to the batter in step 5.
Special EquipmentBlender or food processor, large Dutch oven or wok, Large colander or wire rack, large slotted spoon or spider skimmer
NotesAny firm, mild white fish will work well in this recipe, but swordfish is traditional for this recipe. Tilapia is also a great option and is commonly used in Baja.
For a less spicy salsa, halve the serrano chiles and remove their seeds and ribs before frying. I recommend wearing plastic gloves when handling the chiles and thoroughly washing your hands after handling.
To warm the tortillas, wrap them in a clean kitchen towel and microwave until warm and pliable, 15 to 30 seconds. Alternatively, they can be warmed in a griddle, comal, or cast-iron pan set over medium-high heat. Or using tongs, hold 1 tortilla at a time over the flame of a gas stove, turning constantly until softened and lightly charred. Once warmed, wrap the tortillas in a clean kitchen towel until ready to serve.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe coleslaw can be made ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
The serrano salsa can be stored in an airtight container and refrigerated for up to 1 week.
Serious Eats / Getty ImagesDespite what the eggplant emoji may suggest, European eggplants centuries ago did actually look like little white chicken eggs dangling from a bushy plant, which is how the vegetable got its name.
“The problem with white eggplants was that when they were shipped, they tended to bruise and scar easily,” says Peter “Produce Pete” Napolitano, former fruit and vegetable buyer and retailer, and author of Produce Pete's Farmacopeia: From Apples to Zucchini, and Everything in Between. So over thousands of years of cultivation and hybridization, eggplants eventually became what we recognize today. By the Middle Ages, it was already known for its purple skin in various parts of the world. But let’s rewind even further.
“Eggplants are believed to originate from India because ancient written evidence of their use dates back about 2,000 years,” says Venkateswara Rao Kadium, a PhD student in plant breeding and genetics at Montana State University. “It spread to China, where people have been cultivating it for over 1,500 years, then [it was] introduced to Europe through the Middle East and finally reached America through European colonizers.”
Today, the white eggplant is rarer, but the name stuck. “Eggplant is used predominantly in American English,” says Kadium. “But in India, it goes by brinjal, while the French and British call it aubergine.”
The name aubergine reflects the plant's history and movement across cultures. It originates from the Sanskrit word “vatinganah,” which evolved into “badingan” in Persian. Arabic speakers adapted the word to “al-badhinjan,” and when the Arabs brought the vegetable to Spain, it became “berenjena.” The word then evolved in Catalan to “albergínia and in French to “aubergine.”
Eggplant, by any name, is a delicious, versatile vegetable that can take myriad forms as an entrée, dip, or side dish. From long, skinny Japanese eggplant to the big and fat globe variety, there are a handful of shared traits to look for when shopping. Read on to learn about different types of eggplant, as well as tips to help you buy the best eggplants at the market and cook them up—no matter what kind you choose.
What Is Eggplant?This summertime crop is a member of the Solanaceae nightshade family. Like its relatives—which include tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers, among others—eggplant harvest season typically begins mid-summer and continues through mid-fall. Although people prepare eggplant as a vegetable, the produce is technically a berry because of its numerous tiny, edible seeds.
In the US, farmers cultivate eggplants as far north as New York, but they usually grow best in sunnier southern states. “Eggplants need heat and considerable irrigation to grow,” says Napolitano. “That’s why, for example, eggplant doesn't figure in northern Italian cuisine as it does in southern.”
Yet, New Jersey is number one for eggplant production and, according to Napolitano, grows about 66% of the world’s eggplants because the state’s southern area offers the well-drained, sandy-loam soil these plants need to thrive.
10 Eggplant Varieties to Try This SummerThere are dozens of types of eggplants in various shapes, sizes, colors, and textures, including many heirloom varieties. Some of the most common eggplants you're likely to see at your local grocery store include the following.
Globe EggplantsGetty Images / robyn macSize: Large Shape: Oval Color: Deep purple Texture: Smooth and firm Flavor: Mild, slightly sweet Cuisine: Common in Mediterranean and American cuisines; often used in dishes like eggplant Parmesan and ratatouille.
Also called American eggplant, these tend to be large, meaty, and seedy. They hold their shape well when cooked and are great for grilling or frying. For the best taste and texture, look for small to medium eggplants that are about six inches in diameter.
Italian EggplantsGetty Images / Louise BrienSize: Medium to large Shape: Pear-shaped Color: Dark purple Texture: Firm Flavor: Rich and slightly bitter Cuisine: Integral to Italian cuisine; used in dishes like caponata and melanzane alla parmigiana (Italian-style eggplant Parmesan).
These eggplants are similar in shape to the globe but smaller with thinner skin. They are a few inches in diameter and about five to eight inches long. Italian eggplants are an excellent multipurpose eggplant that can be breaded, stuffed, roasted, and broiled. Another variety, Sicilian eggplant, is also part of this category and can be used interchangeably in recipes.
Japanese EggplantsGetty Images / LacoasaSize: Medium to small Shape: Long and slender Color: Deep purple Texture: Tender and creamy Flavor: Mild and sweet Cuisine: Predominantly used in Japanese cuisine; great for grilling and stir-frying.
Japanese eggplants are gently curving in shape. They are relatively thin-skinned, with few seeds and a creamy texture. They hold their shape well, making them great for braises and stir-fries.
Chinese EggplantsGetty Images / DashuSize: Medium Shape: Long and slender Color: Light purple Texture: Tender Flavor: Mild and slightly sweet Cuisine: Prominent in Chinese cuisine; ideal for stir-fries and braised dishes.
This type of eggplant is similar to the Japanese eggplant but more lavender in color. It also has a lovely creamy texture and is wonderful in braises and stir-fries, pairing well with bold flavors like garlic, ginger, and soy sauce.
Indian EggplantsGetty Images / Photo by Bhaskar DuttaSize: Small Shape: Round or slightly oval Color: Dark purple Texture: Crisp and tender Flavor: Mild and sweet Cuisine: Widely used in Indian dishes like baingan bharta and curries.
Also called baby eggplants, eggplants of this variety are squat ovals with medium-thick, rich purple skin and crisp, white flesh. They have a mild, slightly sweet flavor and creamy texture that makes them well-suited to curries. They can also be stuffed and cooked whole or used in dips.
Thai EggplantsGetty Images / antpkrSize: Small Shape: Round Color: Green with white stripes Texture: Firm and crisp Flavor: Slightly bitter and crisp Cuisine: Essential in Thai cuisine; often used in green curries and stir-fries.
Thai eggplants—also called apple eggplants—are small two-inch globes that remain green even when ripe (you can still recognize their ripeness by checking for glossy skin, an indicator that they're ready to use). They are mildly bitter and crunchy, and are excellent in curries.
White EggplantsGetty Images / bergamontSize: Medium to large Shape: Oval Color: White Texture: Smooth and firm Flavor: Mild and creamy Cuisine: Used in various cuisines; often grilled, baked, or stuffed.
These eggplants come in many varieties, including one called the Ghostbuster. They have similar flesh to purple eggplant but tougher skin and a milder, slightly more delicate flavor.
Graffiti EggplantsSerious Eats / DeniraSize: Small to medium Shape: Oblong Color: Light purple with white stripes Texture: Tender and delicate Flavor: Sweet and creamy Cuisine: Popular in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes; often roasted or grilled.
Also known as fairy tale eggplants, these are palm-sized and marked by purple and white streaks. They have few seeds, making the flesh sweet and creamy—ideal for roasting whole, blitzing into a creamy dip, or grilling.
Black BeautyGetty Images / tanuha2001Size: Large Shape: Oval Color: Dark purple Texture: Firm and meaty Flavor: Rich and slightly bitter Cuisine: Common in American and Italian dishes, such as eggplant Parmesan.
This variety is a century-old heirloom eggplant that is large and bulb-shaped with dark purple skin. It’s meaty, typically grows about eight inches long, and weighs more than a pound. It’s prized for its bolder flavor and is ideal for grilling.
Rosa BiancaSerious Eats / Ouchi IroSize: Medium to large Shape: Round Color: Light purple and white Texture: Creamy and tender Flavor: Mild and sweet Cuisine: Common in Mediterranean dishes; often used in baking and grilling.
This Italian heirloom variety has a light purple-and-white striped pattern. This sweet and creamy fruit is picked before seed formation starts. It’s perfect for stuffing with savory fillings or topping with cheese.
Picking the Perfect EggplantSimilar to other produce, where you shop matters. “You might find a wider range of fresh, locally grown varieties at farmers markets versus supermarkets,” says Kadium.
In addition to farmers markets, local produce shops are a great place to look for different kinds of eggplant since they might carry produce from multiple farms. When Napolitano ran his family’s produce store in Bergenfield, New Jersey, he would buy from local farmers and sell fresh eggplants hand-picked that same day.
According to Napolitano, there are five things to look for when selecting your eggplants.
- Weight: Look for fruit that's heavy in the hand for its size. “If it's large but feels light, it will be pulpy,” says Napolitano.
- Skin: Napolitano says the skin should be smooth, taut, and glossy, not dull.
- Stem: A green calyx—the cap with little spikes around the stems—is a sure sign that the eggplant is fresh, says Napolitano.
- Blossom: The blossom is the opposite end of the stem, with a mark like a belly button. Napolitano says males have a round mark, and females have an oval mark. “The females are firmer and have fewer seeds,” he says. “The fewer seeds the eggplant has, the less bitter it will be.”
- Flesh: Gently press the flesh with your thumb. It should be firm and spring back. “If it has soft spots or leaves an indentation, pass that eggplant by as it’s likely overripe,” says Napolitano.
As a bonus tip, Napolitano shares a lesson in buying ugly produce. In his family, Italian gumbroit is a beloved dish (similar to ratatouille) passed down over generations. It took his mother years to perfect it when it finally dawned on her that the secret was using “imperfect” vegetables with scratches, spots, and bruises. “Those vegetables were absolutely dead ripe,” says Napolitano.
“The problem with most Americans is that they only buy with their eyes, but just because something looks perfect, it won't necessarily taste good,” he says. “A winter tomato can be perfectly round and uniformly colored, but it won't taste like anything. As often as not, your other senses—especially your nose—will tell you as much about fruits and vegetables as your eyes.”
How to Store EggplantsYou should use a fresh eggplant as soon as possible after purchasing, but you can store eggplants at room temperature for two to three days—ideally in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat sources, says Kadium. In the refrigerator, eggplants can last for up to a week, but Kadium says the quality may diminish after a few days.
If refrigerating unwashed and uncut eggplant, Napolitano suggests loosely wrapping it and keeping it in the crisper drawer.. Wrap the eggplant in paper towels to absorb excess moisture, then place it in a perforated plastic bag that allows for some air circulation. If you don't have a perforated bag, you can loosely wrap the eggplant in a regular plastic bag.
How to Prepare Eggplants for CookingThe longstanding debate in the culinary world is whether or not to salt your eggplant before preparing. One reason for salting is that it removes bitterness, but these days, commercially grown eggplants are not usually bitter. Larger and more mature eggplants can have a slightly bitter taste, though.
To get rid of that unwanted flavor, Napolitano says to peel the eggplant (the skin is likely bitter and a little tough), then slice the eggplant, sprinkle it with salt, and allow it to drain in a colander for 30 minutes. Then rinse and dry thoroughly.
However, salting eggplant is not just about bitterness. Salting also helps collapse the flesh’s cellular walls and remove moisture so the eggplant doesn't soak up so much oil when you sauté or fry it—its greatest asset, after all, comes from the spongy texture’s ability to absorb flavors during cooking, which it can’t do if it’s already soaked full of oil.
How to Cook EggplantsEggplants are a key ingredient in Asian, Middle Eastern, and Mediterranean cuisines, but many other cuisines around the world also showcase their versatility. While somewhat neutral in flavor when raw, eggplant has a mildly sweet and umami quality that pairs well with tomatoes, zucchini, onions, garlic, mushrooms, cheese, yogurt, oregano, and marjoram.
The goal when cooking eggplant is generally tender, almost custardy pieces that hold their shape. Kadium explains that the silky texture that eggplant takes on once cooked is due to several factors related to its composition and cooking methods. “The cell structure of eggplants is spongy and porous, allowing them to absorb water, cooking oils, and flavors easily,” he says. When heat is applied, the air-filled flesh collapses and becomes denser. Meanwhile, the cell walls release pectin that melds with the water in the eggplant to create a smooth, soft texture.
You can achieve meltingly tender eggplant using several cooking methods.
BraisingJapanese and Chinese eggplants braise well because they keep their shape while the flesh gets custardy. In Sichuan-style eggplant, the eggplant is first stir-fried until charred and smoky, then braised in a garlicky basil sauce to soak up all the flavors. Slender eggplants also get the twice-cooked treatment in kashk-o-bādemjān (Persian braised eggplant with kashk, a fermented dairy product that is a common pantry item in Persian cookery). Pan-frying the eggplant until deeply browned and then braising it in water gives it a silky, creamy texture and a subtle caramelized flavor. Braising the kashk with the eggplant allows kashk’s tangy and savory flavor to infuse into every bite.
BroilingSkinnier eggplant varieties are also preferred for broiling, as they cook faster than fat ones. Nasu no dengaku is traditionally made by broiling slender Japanese eggplants, spreading them with a sweet miso glaze, then broiling them again until the glaze is caramelized and sizzling. Globe, Italian, and graffiti varieties can also be broiled as an alternative to breading and frying, like in this eggplant tian recipe, which flavors the eggplant in a balsamic vinaigrette before broiling.
RoastingBoth fat and thin eggplants take well to roasting. A small globe, Italian, white, or graffiti eggplant simply sliced in half and roasted would make a showstopping main dish. This eggplant with tahini, pine nuts, and lentils benefits from roasting because cooking it at high heat evaporates its moisture quickly, rendering its flesh meaty, charred, and smoky. In tortang talong (Filipino eggplant omelet), Japanese eggplant is roasted at a moderate temperature until it becomes creamy, then battered, shallow-fried, and stuffed with seasoned ground pork.
GrillingSome dishes, like baba ganoush, require high heat to char eggplant and infuse it with smokiness before blitzing it into a creamy dip. But you can also simply cut any globular eggplant into slices and brush it with oil before grilling it briefly on each side. Top off the eggplant with feta and maras pepper for a simple yet satisfying summer meal.
SteamingSteaming eggplants keeps their flesh moist and tender, resulting in a different texture than when roasted. Chinese eggplant salad and this Chinese-style steamed eggplant require minimal cooking, and the cold dishes turn out refreshing and light without the need to turn on the oven. You can even steam eggplants in the microwave.
FryingGlobe and Italian eggplants get breaded and fried in the Italian-American classic eggplant Parmesan, Israeli sabich, and Mexican eggplant torta. These examples highlight how eggplant can make for a hearty meat replacement. The key is removing as much water as possible. Sandwich the slices between paper towels before weighing them down with a plate and microwaving them to purge the flesh of air and moisture. This process makes them fry up crisp and golden brown, with a dense, meaty interior.
You can also forgo the breading and fry up slices in a pan until golden brown to add to casseroles like moussaka and vegetable lasagna. Or slather Indian eggplants in masala and fry them up for a flavorful dish in 15 minutes.
Stir-FryingIn makheua yao pad tao jiao, a Thai-Chinese stir-fry, slender eggplant pieces are flash-fried in hot oil to soften the flesh while preserving the skin’s vibrant purple hue. Like in many cooking methods, the eggplant is twice-cooked, this time stir-fried with meats, spices, and other saucy seasonings.
BakingFat, globular eggplants take well to low-and-slow baking. An Italian, white, or graffiti eggplant baked low and slow in a hearty sauce makes a perfect entrée. Score the eggplant halves before baking to encourage more of their liquid to evaporate. You can stuff them with lamb and pine nuts or smother them in a walnut sauce. Or keep it simple and toss eggplant in oil and bake at 350°F (176.6°C) for 45 to 50 minutes until beautifully soft and golden. You can also bake Japanese eggplant into a delicious Provençal tian alongside zucchini and squash.
SautéeingIn French ratatouille, eggplant is sautéed along with other summer vegetables, including squash, zucchini, and tomatoes. Dicing the vegetable into small pieces, as in this Sicilian caponata recipe, precludes the need for any brining or salting before sautéing.
StewingThai eggplants are great for adding to curries and stews. It doesn’t get any easier than this prep-wise—just slice them up, throw them into the simmering sauce, and cook until softened. In Thai green curry, the crisp and slightly bitter eggplants provide textural contrast and a little respite from the heat of the curry. Note that once cut open, the flesh of Thai eggplants quickly oxidizes, so it’s a good idea to soak them in water until you’re ready to add them to the curry.
Serious Eats / Qi AiWhen I introduce visitors to Kansas City barbecue, I often describe it as a workingman’s barbecue—something they can grab for lunch without building in an afternoon nap. I tell them the thin-sliced brisket—which is leaner, and yes, drier than Texas's tallow-soaked briskets— is a feature, not a bug.
This hypothesis is challenged by the existence of cheesy corn.
Serious Eats / Qi AiKansas City-style cheesy corn may be one of the most luxurious side dishes in the barbecue canon. At its best, it balances the flavors of fresh sweet corn and salty smoked ham in a cheddar-heavy cheese sauce as sharp as it is creamy–an ideal complement to KC’s lean brisket and slightly sweet, heavily spiced sauce.
Although many Kansas City barbecue joints serve their own versions of the dish, it was popularized by Fiorella’s Jack Stack, where the cheesy corn has been flowing for more than 40 years—and I do mean flowing. My main issue with Jack Stack’s cheesy corn is that it’s pourable, more chowder than casserole. My version splits the difference, coating plump corn kernels and crispy morsels of ham in a sauce that retains the silky consistency of a good stovetop mac-and-cheese.
Four Tips for Kansas City-Style Cheesy CornSerious Eats / Qi Ai1. “Milk” your corn. Corn is the star of this dish, not just a vehicle for cheese. Fresh summer corn contributes a sweetness and al dente bite that frozen corn just can’t compete with (but if you have to use frozen, two 10-ounce bags of frozen corn can be subbed for the fresh corn). Don’t throw out the cobs after slicing off the kernels. By scraping off the juices and bits of remaining kernel left behind—a substance many food writers like to call “corn milk” despite its heavy particulate matter—you can amplify the corniness. In my tests, leaving out the corn milk dulled the flavor, while adding both the grainy particulate matter and juices (blended together for a smooth consistency) made the dish too sweet. Pressing the “milk” through a fine-mesh strainer is the Goldilocks step that extracts just enough bonus sugar and starch to balance the sharp, rich cheese sauce. 2. Embrace the cream cheese. Cream cheese is traditional in Kansas City cheesy corn—it’s part of the Jack Stack recipe—but I didn’t take for granted that it would make it into the final recipe. Early in my testing, I tried making a Mornay sauce, an all-cheddar sauce with sodium citrate to help make it creamier, and an evaporated milk sauce cribbed from Kenji’s stovetop mac-and-cheese. All of those versions tasted flat to me. Cream cheese plays double-duty, lending the dish some of its signature tang as well as its silky texture. Depending on the brand of cream cheese you use, you might see guar gum, carob gum, or xanthan gum in the ingredients list (sometimes all three). Those stabilizers—together with the substantial starch boost from the corn—will keep your cheese sauce from breaking or turning greasy even when it cools. 3. Diversify your cheddar. Extra sharp cheddar is traditional for its ability to complement and complicate the tanginess of the cream cheese. But an equal amount of naturally smoked cheddar (avoid anything with “smoke flavor” on the ingredients list) gives the dish a subtle smokiness that calls back to its barbecue roots. 4. Grate fresh garlic. Most recipes for Kansas City-style cheesy corn use garlic powder, which tends to get lost in the melange of strong flavors. Microplaning fresh garlic and stirring it in raw, on the other hand, gives the dish a noticeable and welcome bite.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFollowing those few simple guidelines makes a cheesy corn that’s tangy, salty, smoky, and a little bit sweet—the ideal side dish for Kansas City barbecue. The next time a visitor questions our thin-sliced brisket, I’m just going to tell them we keep it lean to save room for corn.
In a 8- or 10-inch cast-iron or nonstick skillet, heat 1 teaspoon oil over medium-high until shimmering. Add cubed ham steak and cook, stirring frequently, until ham is lightly browned, about 4 minutes; set aside.
Serious Eats / Qi AiIn a large bowl or centered in a round bundt cake pan, stand each corn cob upright and slice off kernels into bowl with a sharp knife, reserve cobs. Don’t worry about getting every last millimeter of kernel; only trim as close to the cob as your knife can comfortably slice without encountering much resistance. When all six cobs are trimmed, you should have about 4 cups (20 ounces) of kernels. (See The Best Way to Cut Corn Kernels Drom the Cob.) Alternatively, place 1 cob flat on cutting board. Hold the cob firmly in place with one hand, and with a sharp knife, slice off kernels, rotating the cob as needed (about 4 to 5 rotations will be needed)
Serious Eats / Qi AiWorking with one cob at a time, scrape the back of your knife back and forth across the cob to extract the corn “milk” into a fine mesh strainer set over a large sauté pan or saucepan. You should have quite a bit of crushed kernel in addition to the juice. Using a spatula, press the mixture firmly into the strainer to extract as much liquid as possible. Remove strainer and discard fibrous corn solids.
Serious Eats / Qi AiAdd cooked ham, cut corn kernels, whole milk, cream cheese, garlic, salt, and cayenne to the saucepan with the corn “milk.” Cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until cream cheese is fully melted and the sauce is smooth, about 10 minutes. While cooking, adjust heat as necessary so that sauce is just bubbling around the edges; do not let it come to a boil. Add both shredded cheeses and continue to cook until the cheese is melted through and the mixture is glossy and as thick as nacho cheese, about 1 minute. Serve immediately, sprinkling individual portions or serving bowl with sliced scallions.
Serious Eats / Qi AiSpecial Equipment8- or 10-inch cast-iron or nonstick skillet, fine-mesh strainer
NotesFresh sweet corn begins losing its sugars as soon as it’s picked. For the best flavor, make this the day you buy the corn—and always store your sweet corn in the refrigerator. If fresh corn is unavailable, two 10-ounces bags of frozen corn can be substituted with no other changes.
When shopping for cheeses, look for a naturally smoked cheddar rather than a cheese with “smoke flavor” listed in the ingredients.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikSometimes it's easier to pick up your phone and order delivery pizza—you might even pick it up yourself on occasion. Sometimes you're tempted to grab a few boxes of the frozen variety to have on hand as a backup, especially when cruising down the frozen food aisle at Costco. Oh, I've been there. But here's the thing: Making pizza at home isn't as daunting or time-consuming as you might think. All you need are a few solid recipes in your arsenal for great homemade pizza to become an everyday reality.
Our favorite recipes cover almost every style of pizza you could possibly crave—from Neapolitan and New York to retro classics like French bread pizza and pizza bagel poppers. We also give you a range of cooking options to work with depending on what setup you have, whether it's a conventional stove, grill, or high-heat tabletop pizza oven. There's even a recipe for a versatile fool-proof pizza baked in a cast iron skillet. So, put down that phone, step away from the frozen pizza case, and get your dough on with these 25 pizza recipes.
Foolproof Pan PizzaSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThere's is practically nothing you can't do in a cast iron skillet. Its excellent heat retention and distribution make it the ideal tool for making foolproof pan pizza. With a hearty no-knead, no-stretch pizza dough, the process couldn't be easier—giving you free rein to go as wild as you want with toppings.
Sicilian Pizza With Pepperoni and Spicy Tomato SauceSerious Eats / Julia EstradaIf you can't fly to New York to satisfy your craving for a slice of Spicy Spring from Prince Street Pizza—arguably one the best slices on the East Coast—then this recipe is about as close as you're gonna get to the spicy, cheesy, crispy pepperoni-topped Sicilian masterpiece. A generous coating of olive oil ensures the crunchy, golden-brown crust won't stick to the pan. Like the original, cheese is layered under the sauce to prevent the pizza from getting soggy.
Detroit-Style Pan PizzaSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltLovers of Detroit-style pizza will appreciate the months of testing and research that went into perfecting this recipe. From the high-fat aged Brick cheese from Wisconsin with its uniquely tangy, salty, buttery flavor to the special nonstick pizza pan that allows it to crisp along the bottom of the crust, we went the extra mile to replicate the quintessential Detroit slice.
New England Greek Style PizzaSerious Eats / Qi AiOur version of this regional classic starts with an oregano-forward sauce that's slowly simmered to yield a concentrated flavor. We reserve a portion of crushed tomatoes to stir in at the end to keep the reduced sauce tasting bright and fresh. We stretch the olive oil-enriched dough out in well-greased pans, then top it with the sauce and plenty of cheese—a 50/50 blend of mozzarella and white cheddar for a nice tang.
The Best French Bread PizzaSerious Eats / Mateja Zvirotic AndrijanicNo shade to Stouffer's, but this French bread pizza blows it—and all other versions—out of the water. We updated this retro classic with a heavy dose of garlicky butter, two cheeses, and fresh herbs. Flattening the bread—the squishy supermarket variety, not a baguette—under a baking sheet before toasting prevents the bread from curling. We also melt some of the cheese onto the bread before adding sauce to protect it against sogginess.
Extra-Crispy Bar-Style Tortilla PizzaSerious Eats / Liz ClaymanWant pizza in a flash? There's no better option than this bar-style version that uses a tortilla as the crust, which bakes up extra crispy in a cast-iron skillet. We top the pizza with tomato sauce, grated mozzarella and parmesan, basil, and olive oil. For a heartier, sturdier version with more toppings, try Kenji's quesadilla pizza—same principle, just double the tortilla and cheese.
Pizza With Hot Soppressata, Mozzarella, Chiles, and HoneySerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThese days, who doesn't like Neapolitan pizza with hipster vibes? Inspired by the one at Paulie Gee's, our version gets its spicy kick from hot soppressata and chiles. Honey keeps the heat in check and adds a touch of sweetness to balance out the deeply savory cured meat.
Pizza With Cherry Tomatoes, Garlic, Basil, and MozzarellaSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltA beautifully charred Neapolitan pizza is the perfect canvas to showcase the best of summer cherry tomatoes. Quick high-heat cooking softens them, intensifying their flavor and sweetness, as mozzarella melts over an airy crust moistened with a thin layer of un-cooked San Marzano tomatoes. The aroma of singed basil fills the air with every bite.
Sausage and Radicchio PizzaSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltRadicchio can be quite bitter in its raw state, but it turns sweet as it caramelizes in the oven. Its charred sweet-bitter notes complement the rich, fennel-scented porkiness of Italian sausage—tossed on raw, its fat renders out and seeps into the pores of the leaves and the cracks in the cheese.
Pizza With Mushrooms, Mozzarella, and TruffleSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltHere, we've doubled down on mushroom flavor by layering fresh sliced mushrooms and fresh mozzarella on top of brandy-spiked mushroom duxelles. It's finished off with a drizzle of truffle oil at the table. Need we say more? Chef's kiss!
Pizza With Zucchini, Feta, Lemon, and GarlicSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThe high water content of zucchini makes it a challenging pizza topping—no one wants to eat pale, soggy zucchini. The solution is to salt the zucchini and squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Then it's ready to be paired with mozzarella, feta, and thin slices of garlic and lemon.
New York-Style Pizza with Kimchi, Soppressata, and Maitake MushroomsSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltKimchi is everywhere these days—in grilled cheese sandwiches, fried chicken, and pasta—so it's not that unusual to see it on a New York-style pizza. Here, the funkiness of kimchi is paired with creamy mozzarella, hot soppressata, and maitake mushrooms works. Just remember to squeeze out the excess kimchi juice to prevent sogginess, which would be a crime against pizza.
New York-Style Pizza with Bacon-Cherry Pepper Relish and CoppaSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltA good ol' New York-style pizza will always hold a special place in the hearts and stomachs of pizza aficionados. But if you want to switch things up, try this version with coppa and bacon-cherry relish made with pickled cherry peppers, bacon, and sugar.
The Best Meatball PizzaSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThis marriage of meatball sub and New York-style pizza is quite possibly the greatest Italian-American mashup ever. Keeping the meatballs small ensures even distribution, and sautéing part of the meatball mixture to flavor the sauce gives it a simmered-all-day flavor.
Pizza with Pesto, Ricotta, and MozzarellaSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltDollops of molten pesto, ricotta, and fresh mozzarella dot the surface of this pizza, creating a landscape of contrasting flavors. Blanching the basil before making the pesto is the secret to preserving its vibrant green color.
Outdoor Pizza Oven 'Nduja PizzaSerious Eats / Andrew JanjigianHigh-temperature tabletop pizza ovens are all the rage, but getting the right combination of ingredients and dough to bake perfectly in them takes a bit of tweaking. For this recipe, Andrew starts with a pizza dough specifically formulated for these types of pizza ovens, then layers fresh basil under the sauce and cheese to prevent it from burning. Dollops of 'nduja hold their shape under the intense heat and give the classic margherita a spicy twist.
Outdoor Pizza Oven Charred Broccoli Rabe and Anchovy PizzaSerious Eats / Andrew JanjigianThis pie's all about the savory punch from smoky, bitter charred rabe, paired with a blend of Parmesan and Pecorino Romano, a healthy dose of anchovies, and a simple tomato sauce. No creamy mozzarella is needed. Par-blanching the rabe helps to keep it from drying out while it quickly chars in a skillet, all of which can be done right in the outdoor pizza oven as it heats up for baking the pies.
"Armenian" Pizza With Spiced Lamb Sausage, Armenian String Cheese, and SumacSerious Eats / Andrew JanjigianThis Armenian-Italian mashup features lahmajun-spiced lamb sausage and nigella-laced string cheese standing in for low-moisture mozzarella. It's finished with a sprinkling of ground sumac and parsley.
Grilled Pizza With Grilled Shiitake, Sopressata, and ParmesanSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltIf you don't have access to a stone or high-heat tabletop pizza oven, grilling is your best method for producing crisp-on-the-outside, soft-and-airy-on-the-inside pizza. And while you're at it, grill up shiitake mushrooms and soppressata before layering them onto fresh mozzarella-topped grilled pizza crust. Throw on a fistful of shaved Parmesan and grill again until nicely charred.
Grilled Pizza With Grilled Broccolini, Chiles, and GarlicSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltGrilled pizza is an ideal vehicle for a variety of vegetable toppings. For this spin on the classic Italian combo of broccolini, garlic, and chiles, we toss the broccolini in garlic oil then char it on the grill for a couple of minutes until tender. Whole pieces of broccolini, slices of fresh mozzarella, and a scattering of fresh hot chiles are layered onto a pre-grilled pizza crust and then returned to the grill to melt the cheese.
Pizza With Fresh Clams, Garlic, Mozzarella, Romano, and BasilSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltEven the most popular joints in pizza-crazed New Haven use pre-shucked clams, which is why this pizza is a standout. Kenji's method of placing whole unshucked clams, hinge side down, on the pie just before baking the pizza on a preheated stone under the broiler ensures they come out perfectly plump and tender without losing a single precious drop of juice.
The Best Pumpkin PizzaSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltCome fall, this is a great recipe to have in your back pocket. Puréed slow-roasted pumpkin replaces tomato sauce, while shredded Gruyère adds a nutty richness that pairs nicely with sautéed pumpkin and apple. Torn sage leaves complete the autumnal picture.
Classic Tarte Flambée (Alsatian Pizza With Fresh Cheese, Onions, and Bacon)Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerDaniel's version of the Alsatian classic tarte flambée swaps out thinly rolled pizza dough for the traditional flatbread, which is then topped with fromage blanc (a fresh, tart, spreadable cheese), thinly sliced raw onions, and bacon. Cooking it on a baking steel under the blazing hot heat of the broiler results in a gorgeously charred, thin crisp crust. You'll be too busy devouring the whole thing to question whether it's actually a pizza.
Homemade Bagel BitesSerious Eats / Vicky WasikStella Parks created this recipe for hardcore fans of bite-size pizza poppers. It delivers the chewy, cheesy, salty, and crisp they longed for, only better. We start with a base bagel recipe that produces bagels that stay fresh for days. Toasting the split mini bagels prevents them from absorbing too much of the sauce and getting soggy. Diced pepperoni ensures even distribution and replicates the look of Bagel Bites. And, thanks to the longevity of the bagels, you can make them ahead of time and assemble the pizza poppers at your leisure.
Trapizzini (Homemade Roman-Style Pizza Pockets)Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik.These fluffy, crusty Roman-style pizza pockets make for the ultimate party food or sport-viewing snack—self-contained vehicles for all kinds of fillings, from meatballs and braised lamb shoulder to broccoli rabe and sausage. Once you've baked the cold-fermented, no-knead dough to a puffy golden crisp, all you have to do is cut them into triangles, cut a slit down the middle, nestle the pockets in their parchment wrappers, and pile them up with fillings of your choice. Ah, the glorious union of pizza and sandwich!
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeWho doesn't love a a fried hybrid? A frybrid, if you will! This one is of two of my favorite mozzarella-based appetizers: caprese salad and mozzarella sticks. The result are what I'm calling "Fried Caprese Balls": mozzarella-filled mini-tomatoes that are breaded, fried, and served with plenty of basil and balsamic reduction.
The first step to a great caprese salad is finding the right tomatoes, and the same can be said for its fried cousin. But while I usually look for the biggest, juiciest tomatoes for fresh caprese salads, I wanted to use firmer, golf-ball-sized tomatoes here instead. They're the perfect size for individual popper-size balls.
I uses an apple corer to hollow out the centers of the tomatoes, but a mini melon baller would also work. After scooping out the seeds, I gently push ciliegine (small 1/2-ounce balls of mozzarella) into each one, being careful not to rip the tomatoes. At this point, they're ready to be coated.
I keep the skins on the tomatoes because they help hold everything together, but that means they're more difficult to bread. The key is to dip them in flour first to give the egg and breadcrumbs something to adhere to. A double-dip in the egg and breadcrumb then ensures that the tomatoes are fully covered and the breading is thick enough to keep the mozzarella from oozing out during frying.
When fried, the tomatoes soften, breaking down to a sauce-like texture in spots. Along with the melted cheese and breadcrumbs, it all reminds me of what it'd be like to put warm marinara inside a mozzarella stick. In other words, it's awesome.
For the sauce, I reduce a mixture of balsamic vinegar and honey, which I then drizzle over the Caprese Balls before serving. Just make sure to wait until you're just about to serve them to drizzle, lest they get soggy.
For a finishing touch, I garnish each fried ball with a little fresh basil.
It's so damned good, I'm already thinking of what other cheesy dish I can transform into a fried snack...shouldn't take me long to come back with an answer.
Using an apple corer or melon baller, gently scoop out the centers of the tomatoes and discard. Push a mozzarella ball into each hollowed tomato, being careful not to rip the tomatoes.
Pour the flour in a shallow bowl. Pour the breadcrumbs in another. In a third shallow bowl, beat the eggs with the milk. Dip the tomatoes into the flour and roll to coat, and then dip them into the egg mixture. Roll the tomatoes in the breadcrumbs to coat. Repeat the egg and breadcrumb coatings a second time.
In a saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the balsamic vinegar and honey. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce heat and simmer until the balsamic has reduced by half and easily coats the back of the spoon, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.
In a high-walled, heavy-bottomed skillet heat 1/2-inch of oil over medium-high heat until it reaches 350°F. Fry the tomatoes in batches, turning, until golden brown all over. Using a slotted spoon, transfer tomatoes to a paper towel-lined plate. Sprinkle with sea salt.
Serve the tomatoes while warm with additional mozzarella balls and a basil leaf garnish. Drizzle with the balsamic reduction and serve.
NotesMake sure to find tomatoes that are big enough to hold a single small mozzarella ball in each one.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn The Simpsons, the bartender Moe always has a jar of pickled eggs at the ready. When Frankie, the health inspector, stops by the bar to conduct a routine check and samples an egg to make sure everything Moe serves is “hygienically stored,” the ill-fated inspector immediately meets his demise, falling to the floor in a dramatic, pickled-egg induced death.
Such is the lore surrounding pickled eggs, a divisive dish that often elicits unenthusiastic groans. And though the murky, bubbling jar of green liquid on the counter at Moe’s doesn’t look the least bit appetizing, pickled eggs can be delicious—and totally safe to eat—when done right. These quick-pickled eggs, which are sweet and savory with a spicy kick from black peppercorns, are truly delicious. And because they’re quick-pickled and kept in the refrigerator, extremely unlikely to kill you.
A Brief History of Pickled EggsThough it’s no longer as common to see pickled eggs at bars, they were once a staple snack at drinking establishments throughout Europe and the United States. It’s unclear where pickled eggs originated, as preserving eggs in vinegar was a common practice in England and much of western Europe as far back as the 16th century. Sue Shephard, author of Pickled, Potted, and Canned, notes that vinegar pickling became extremely popular in 16th century England when homemakers tired of salt-preserving. “When the English farmer’s wife had a glut of eggs,” she writes, “she would boil them hard, shell them, and pile them into earthenware or glass jars and pour over them scalding vinegar well seasoned with pepper, ginger, garlic, and allspice.”
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPickled eggs were also a sought-after snack in 18th century Germany, and German immigrants helped spread the tradition to other countries. By the mid-1800s, jars of pickled eggs were common at German-owned bars in America, while British pubs served them alongside bags of crisps (potato chips). It’s unclear exactly why pickled eggs are so often served alongside alcohol; writing for Punch, journalist Talia Ralph suggests that there may be “some well-founded nutritional logic to the pairing of eggs and booze,” as eggs contain cysteine, an amino acid that can aid liver function, which in theory might help prevent hangovers.
Pickled eggs may no longer be a hot ticket item, but some bars are doing their best to keep the tradition alive. The Cock Tavern in Hackney, London, still serves them—and bartenders keep a running tally on a black chalkboard of how fast their patrons can eat a pickled egg.
Some US bars still have a batch of pickled eggs on hand, too. In Austin, Texas, patrons at The Haymaker can enjoy their beer with a house-pickled habanero egg, while in New York City, Jacob's Pickles preserves theirs in a spicy jalapeño brine and serves them as an appetizer.
What Is Quick-Pickling?There are two common methods of pickling: vinegar pickling and lactic-acid fermentation. The first typically involves submerging and preserving food in a brine of vinegar, salt, and sugar; the acidity of the solution slowly draws water out from the food via osmosis. The brine gradually penetrates the food as it sits, creating a hostile environment for harmful bacteria and making the food safe to eat. Pickles made via lacto-fermentation develop their flavor as microbes convert the natural sugar molecules into lactic acid, turning sweet into sour and reducing the food’s pH to prevent bacterial growth, thus aiding in long-term preservation.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile other pickling methods can take weeks or months, quick pickling simply involves popping the ingredients in a jar, adding a vinegar-based brine, and refrigerating. Intended for short-term consumption, quick-pickled items must remain refrigerated at all times. Refrigeration inhibits bacterial growth and vinegar lowers the pH of preserved foods, so both the cool fridge temperatures and the acetic brine play an important role in quick-pickling. The vinegar brine also alters the flavor of the ingredients in the jar, adding a sour note often balanced by sugar, spices, or other components added to the pickling solution.
You can quick-pickle lots of things, including asparagus, rhubarb, fennel, red onions, cucumbers, and of course, eggs. Some quick-pickles—especially vegetable recipes—use a cold brine, allowing the vegetables to retain their original texture and color. In contrast, a hot brine may cook and soften the ingredients ever-so-slightly. In the recipe below, I opt for a hot brine, as the heat helps dissolve the granulated sugar.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez5 Tips for Making Quick-Pickled EggsUse a clean jar. While sterilization is not required for quick-pickling the way it is for traditional canning, a thorough wash with soap and water will remove any traces of bacteria, mold, or leftover food, creating a clean, safe environment for your pickled eggs.
Use water and vinegar in your brine. Pickling your eggs in just vinegar can produce rubbery egg whites, as the acidic nature denatures and stiffens the egg white proteins as the eggs sit. Using a brine of both water and vinegar not only produces a more balanced pickling liquid, but also helps reduce the likelihood of rubbery pickled eggs.
Use fresh dill. Fresh herbs contain flavor compounds that lose their potency during the drying process, so in this recipe, fresh is best. Plus, it’s a great opportunity to use all of that fresh dill from your summer herb garden (if you're lucky enough to have one).
Allow the eggs to sit for at least three days. You can eat the eggs after 24 hours, but it's worth pickling for at least three days for maximum flavor. Oh, and don't worry if the garlic turns green or blue. A chemical reaction causes this unexpected color change, and it's totally normal.
Flavor to your heart’s desire. Once you've tried the basic recipe below, consider customizing your next batch by using different herbs and spices, making the brine with an alternate vinegar (such as cider or white wine), or adding vegetables to the jar. I tested this recipe with two "add-in" options: onions and jalapeño peppers. The onion-pickled eggs developed a noticeable onion flavor, while the jalapeño (my favorite!) packed a spicy punch. In addition to uniquely flavored eggs, you'll have tasty pickled vegetables, too. I added my pickled onions to a salad, and scattered the jalapeño rings on a pizza.
How to Serve Quick-Pickled EggsBring quick-pickled eggs to a picnic or potluck, eat them as a snack, or go retro and serve them as an hors d'oeuvre at your next cocktail party. Turn them into deviled eggs or a sandwich or add them to a cobb or niçoise salad. I also enjoyed mine on top of ramen and in rice and vegetable bowls.
In a 1-quart heat-safe glass jar with a lid, combine hard-boiled eggs with dill and garlic.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a medium saucepan, stir together vinegar, water, sugar, bay leaves, peppercorns, and salt. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar dissolves, 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low and simmer until liquid reduces and darkens slightly, 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCarefully pour hot brine, along with bay leaves and peppercorns, over eggs, garlic, and dill. Cool to room temperature, about 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCover with a lid and refrigerate until eggs taste and smell vinegary and become beige, for at least 3 days and up to 2 weeks. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezVariationsTo make onion-pickled eggs: Peel a small (approximately 130g; 4 1/2 ounce) white onion. Slice into thin rings. Layer with the hard-boiled eggs, then proceed with the recipe as written.
To make jalapeño-pickled eggs: Trim and de-seed 1 jalapeño pepper (about 1 ounce; 30g). Thinly slice pepper 1/4-inch crosswise. Layer peppers with hard-boiled eggs and proceed with step 2 above. (For spicier eggs, add 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes to the brine.)
Special Equipment1-quart heat-proof jar, medium saucepan
NotesYou can make quick-pickled eggs in any lidded glass jar or heat-proof food storage container.
8 large hard-boiled eggs fit comfortably in a 1-quart jar, but if you are using smaller eggs, you might have room for 1 to 2 more. Avoid cramming too many eggs into the jar to provide adequate space for the brine to fully surround the eggs.
The recipe can easily be doubled. To pickle 16 eggs, use a 2-quart heat-proof jar or two 1-quart containers.
Make-Ahead and StorageYou caneat the eggs after 24 hours, but for maximum flavor, refrigerate for at least 3 days before serving.
This is a quick pickling recipe, and is not intended for canning or long-term preservation. Store quick-pickled eggs in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.
Serious Eats / Qi AiTurn a cheeseburger inside out and you get Minnesota’s Juicy Lucy, a beef patty with an ooey-gooey cheese center, usually nestled on a bun with pickles and griddled onions. For many visitors to the Twin Cities, it’s a curiosity—worth a pilgrimage to Matt’s Bar, the iconic Minneapolis dive that likely invented it in the 1950s. For many locals, it’s lunch.
“It’s a cheeseburger with a little flair,” says Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl, a Twin Cities food writer who has been covering the burger for nearly thirty years. “Everybody likes a cheeseburger.”
Serious Eats / Qi AiTo hear Grumdahl tell it, national food writers overthink it. For one thing, they make too muchof the supposed rivalry between Matt’s and The 5-8 Club, another Minneapolis bar and restaurant that claims the burger. “Matt’s is the one, and everything else comes from that one,” she says. “The 5-8 tries to own it, and Matt’s is like, ‘I don’t know her.’” Outsiders also spend too much time dwelling on the spelling—without an “i” at Matt’s, which has famously preserved a midcentury typo (“Jucy”) on the menu, and with one pretty much everywhere else.
The Truth About the Juicy LucyMinnesotans are far less fussy about the Juicy Lucy than some stories would have you believe. For one thing, they’ll accept just about any filling, as long as there’s cheese.
The version served at Matt’s calls for beef, American cheese, salt, and pepper (plus onions, pickles, and a standard-issue burger bun). That’s the baseline.
The 5-8 serves a traditional Juicy Lucy and a burger filled with a melted mixture of American cheese and creamy peanut butter, then topped with strawberry jam—a tallow-soaked take on the PB&J. Are you into blue cheese-stuffed olives? How about a blue cheese-stuffed burger? That’s the flagship Blucy at the Blue Door Pub, a Twin Cities favorite with four locations, which pairs the pungent cheese with a smattering of minced garlic. Not even the all-beef patty is a requirement. The Nook, a popular spot in St. Paul, serves a burger made from a 50-50 blend of beef and chorizo that oozes queso blanco, called the Spanish Fly.
Serious Eats / Qi AiThere is no Juicy Lucy gatekeeping in the Twin Cities, Grumdahl explains. “There’s no limit to your creativity. I can absolutely see, if someone said, ‘I’m putting mango pickle in the middle!’, people would respond, ‘Oh, I’ll try it.’” In the Upper Midwest, long, cold winters inspire a lot of indoor experimentation, in the kitchen and beyond. “This is the land of the indoor enthusiast. It’s a land of knitting, and a land of model trains… you name a hobby that people do for indoor time. I think food falls in that category.”
What actually matters is that the burger lives up to its name. When you take your first bite, melted cheese and beef juices should come rushing out in a mouth-coating moment of burger bliss. “The best ones have a liquid, molten core that requires you to wait a beat, lest you scorch your mouth with scalding cheese,” wrote Natalia Mendez, a writer and another one of my go-to Twin Cities food experts, when I reached out asking for guidance. “However you make your cheese, you’ll probably need something to make sure that once it’s hot, it liquifies, instead of turning into a stretchy curd.”
How to Build a Better Juicy Lucy at HomeAfter eating Juicy Lucys around the Twin Cities and consulting a couple of Minnesotan experts, I was ready to start building my version of the burger. I wanted to keep it simple—beef, American cheese, salt, and pepper, the way it’s served at Matt’s—but as I worked my way through a couple dozen test batches, I noticed a consistent issue with that formula.
Serious Eats / Qi AiTurning a cheeseburger inside-out has advantages and drawbacks. Cook the burger to a juicy medium, and the cheese inside may not even be fully melted, much less molten. Overcook the burger, and you get oozy cheese and, of course, dry, crumbly beef. There may be a point of perfect equilibrium, at which both the beef and the cheese are optimally cooked, but good luck dialing that in and repeating it when you can’t even stick a thermometer into the burger, because it would create a flow channel for the cheese inside. I’ve come up with two ways to make sure your home-cooked version of the cheese-stuffed burger has the ideal gooey cheese center encased in a rich beef patty. Here’s how.
First, add a teaspoon of powdered gelatin to your beef. Since I first made Kenji’s recipe for pan-roasted chicken breasts, I have often added gelatin to my chicken stock before making a pan sauce, for a rich, mouth-coating result. In a burger, gelatin functions similarly, aiding moisture retention and creating a richer texture. Because you can’t temp these burgers, you might overcook them a little bit—and you might want to, anyway, to ensure the meltiest cheese core possible. If you overcook your patties a bit, the gelatin in the mix will ensure that the meat stays juicy.
Serious Eats / Qi AiSecond, make your own “American” cheese using sodium citrate. I know—it’s more work, and you wouldn’t see homemade cheese on the menu at Matt’s. When I started developing this recipe, I told myself I wouldn’t do it. It’s too fussy for such a simple recipe. Over time, though, as I progressed from shredded cheddar to standard American to Kraft Singles, I recognized that for the best Juicy Lucy, I needed the meltiest cheese in existence, and a 15-minute investment in shredding, whisking, and chilling the DIY beer cheese got me there. As explained in our nacho cheese sauce recipe, the sodium citrate prevents the cheese from breaking into an oily mess when it’s initially heated with the beer, and it guarantees a smooth, creamy texture as the cheese melts inside the patty when cooked.
In my tests, deli-counter American cheese melted well, Kraft was gooier, and my homemade American made a filling that was coherent but almost dangerously juicy, like a beefy beer cheese soup. That’s what I wanted. Plus, using extra-sharp cheddar and beer—a tribute to the burger’s dive-bar origins—in the homemade cheese mixture adds tang and complexity to each hefty bite. If making American cheese at home is too much of a science project for your taste, store-bought American will work. It just won’t be quite as melty or flavorful.
Serious Eats / Qi AiWhether you take the time to make and mold your own cheese or you start with store-bought, there are still two rules to getting the patties right: Seal the two patties tightly, so your cheese doesn’t leak out into the skillet, and after cooking rest the burgers at least five minutes before eating, so your taste buds can survive the onslaught of melted cheese and you can safely appreciate the drippy joys of the juiciest burger on earth.
For the “American” cheese (if making):Adjust oven rack to its middle position and preheat oven to 200℉. Line a 9.5 x 9.5” baking pan with a piece of parchment paper, and place lined pan into the oven to keep warm. (Warming the pan ensures that the cheese will not cool and set before it settles into an even layer.)
Serious Eats / Qi AiIn a small saucepan, add lager and sodium citrate and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, whisking occasionally to dissolve sodium citrate. Once simmering, whisk in the cheese, then lower heat to medium-low and cook, whisking frequently, until cheese melts into a pale, uniform paste, 3 to 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Qi AiRemove prepared baking pan from the oven and pour cheese sauce into the warmed pan. Working quickly, tilt the pan to distribute the cheese in a thin, even layer (use a small offset spatula to spread if necessary). Once spread, refrigerate the pan until the cheese is firm, about 15 minutes. Cover and return to the refrigerator until ready to use. (You can leave the cheese in the pan or remove the cheese, still on the parchment, from the pan and place it in a large zipper-lock bag, or wrap it in plastic wrap.)
Serious Eats / Qi AiWhen ready to make the burgers, remove cheese from the refrigerator and use a 3 ½- round biscuit cutter or drinking glass to punch out 4 cheese rounds. (see notes)
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor the onions: While cheese cools, in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to caramelize, 10 to 15 minutes. If onions are beginning to burn before softened, add a splash of water (or, even better, a splash of the beer you used to make the beer cheese). Season with salt and pepper to taste and transfer to a bowl. Reserve the cast-iron skillet for cooking the burger.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor the burgers: Remove beef from the refrigerator 20-30 minutes before cooking, to give it time to warm to room temperature. Add it to a medium mixing bowl. In a separate small bowl, combine gelatin and 1 tablespoon water, mix well, and immediately pour over the beef. Mix into the beef thoroughly but gently, taking care not to overwork it. Shape the beef into eight 3-ounce balls—two per burger. Place each ball, one at a time, between two sheets of plastic wrap or parchment, and flatten it with the bottom of a heavy skillet, pressingly evenly and firmly, until the patties are about 5 inches wide and about 1/4-inch thick.
Serious Eats / Qi AiPlace 1 flattened patty on a plate or cutting board, and place 1 beer cheese round (or two 3½-inch American cheese rounds) in the middle of each patty. Lay a second patty over the top and crimp the edges of the patties together. Carefully flip the burger and crimp the edges together on other side, taking care to seal the entire perimeter. Then, gently press the sides of the patty in to form a burger about 4-inches wide and 1/2-inch thick. Repeat until finished. Transfer flattened patties back to a large plate and refrigerate until firm to the touch, 15 minutes, or up to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Qi AiIn the now-empty cast-iron skillet, heat 1 teaspoon oil over medium-high heat until smoking. Season the patties generously with salt and pepper on both sides. Carefully transfer the burgers to the skillet and cook until well browned on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. (Don’t use a thermometer, which will liberate the molten cheese inside.)
Serious Eats / Qi AiTransfer the burgers to a plate, lower the heat to medium-low, and toast the buns in skillet, face-down, in two batches if necessary. Rest the patties for 5 minutes to cool the molten cheese inside slightly. Then, assemble the burgers: bottom bun, onions, patty, 3-4 pickle slices, top bun. Careful with that first bite.
Serious Eats / Qi AiSpecial Equipment12-inch cast iron skillet, 9.5 x 9.5” baking pan if making the “American" cheese, parchment paper
NotesIf making the “American” cheese, feel free to substitute water or milk for the beer. You can also experiment with different kinds of cheese (warning—they may set differently, depending on their moisture content, but you should end up with something burger-worthy).
If making the “American” cheese, you will end up with cheese scraps. Use them anywhere you’d use American or melt them down with another big splash of beer to make a gooey beer cheese dip.
Feel free to add seasonings, such as mustard powder, cayenne, and granulated garlic, to the meat mixture.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe “American” cheese can be made ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreAs far as kamado-style grills go, Big Green Egg is a legacy name with a robust following. The first Egg debuted in 1974, and the iconic green dome has grown to feature several sizes and a broad range of accessories to satisfy even the most discerning of “Eggheads.”
About a year ago, I entered the Egg community with a large size (the third-biggest of seven options) complete with an “IntEGGrated” Nest, Handler, and acacia wood folding shelves. This 162-pound beast replaced my pellet grill. However, while ceramic kamado-style grills can be used for grilling, they also excel at smoking. I grilled during my first few sessions with the Egg to get the hang of temperature control and cooking range and slowly ventured into slightly longer bakes and smoking sessions with larger pieces of meat and fish (and many vegetables). Recently, I made my first brisket and even tested the Egg’s capability as a pizza oven. Here are my thoughts on this big, green griller after owning it for 12 months.
What We LearnedIt Was Heavy, but (Sort of) Portable A rolling stand provides portability for this heavy ceramic smoker.Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreEven the smallest Egg weighs 39 pounds before adding charcoal. My Large Egg is a hefty 162 pounds—most definitely not movable without the wheeled Nest. It’s heavy because it’s primarily made of ceramic and metal, with very little plastic. The quality construction makes it more durable than aluminum kamados, but what you gain in longevity you lose in portability. It makes sense why many cooks put their Egg in one spot and build a workstation around it. However, with the handler/nest combo, the Large Egg is movable from my garage to my driveway. I’m not wheeling this thing to a local park, but I can move it about 100 feet with minimal fuss.
Were the Big Green Egg Accessories Worth It?Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreOne does not simply Egg (I’m petitioning to make that officially a verb) with just the base unit. There is an ecosystem of accessories that make Egging more practical. The custom coal stoker and ashtray for the coal opening are two things I definitely could not live without. While any stoker and ashtray would theoretically work, the BGE versions are specifically designed for the curvature of the ashtray and the internal bottom cavity, so others may not be as effective in getting rid of ash. I’m not really sure how you’d remove ash from the Egg otherwise (without taking out the heavy interior ceramic rings that is). There’s also the “Eggspander,” which adds one additional level of cooking inside the Egg. It’s a good option for items that don’t need direct heat, like softer veggies.
I think if you’re going to invest in a Big Green Egg, it’s worth it to budget for some accessories. They make ownership much more enjoyable and fruitful. If you’re looking at just a few accessories, I would say the BGE ashtray, coal stoker, and nest/handler are the most practical.
Lighting the Egg Was Not an Exact ScienceSerious Eats / Russell KilgoreIf you watch enough “Eggducation” on YouTube you won’t think twice about lighting the grill, until you get out there to do it. I chose not to get the Egg-specific butane lighter or a chimney starter and to use paraffin wax cubes instead (Big Green Egg has its own version; most are the same). Although there are two separate channels for airflow (one from above and one adjacent to the ashtray), I never quite know if I’ll get the coals lit the first time. Ceramic kamados retain heat really well, but that also presents a challenge for initial lighting since there are only two options for air circulation. (Other kamados have a circular opening at the bottom for airflow, but that also leads to potentially more heat loss, so it’s a give-and-take.)
In my experience with the Egg, I try to start grill prep early and get a fire going soon after, just in case I have to stoke the coals again or add another wax cube. If I’m going for a high-heat grilling session, I find that stoking the coals after about 15 minutes quickly promotes a roaring hot grill, often exceeding 550°F. I rarely need temperatures that high, so I typically close the vents for a bit to help level off the heat to 475 or 500ºF.
The Egg Excelled at Low and Slow CookingI was impressed by the Egg’s ability to maintain lower temperatures over a long period, such as the eight hours it took to smoke a brisket. The smoker held a steady 230˚F with minimal user interference. Ceramic kamados generally hold prolonged heat well, so this isn't entirely surprising.
The Egg plows through charcoal at temperatures over 500˚F, and I had to closely monitor (and fiddle with) the dampers to maintain anything over 520˚F. The majority of my weeknight grilling is done at 400 to 450˚F and the Egg keeps that going just fine. It’s worth having a grilling thermometer to double-check temperatures, though.
It Was Well-Built and Easy to MaintainSerious Eats / Russell KilgoreThere are zero electronic components in the Egg, and depending on your point of view that’s either a big plus or a huge negative. (Fans of app-enabled grills and smokers should check out the Char-Griller Auto-Kamado.) A year in, I love that aspect. Few things can break, and beyond tightening the exterior bolts every few months, maintenance tops out at cleaning the interior and replacing the grill seal gasket every couple of years—an easy DIY job. This is a rig that’s built to last, which helps warrant the high price.
Budget Time for CooldownThe Egg holds heat incredibly well, which means it takes a long time to cool. If you store your Egg in a garage, know that it needs to be under 100˚F before putting it away—that can take up to three hours after you’ve stopped cooking. There are a couple of tricks I learned from the online community to speed this up, like putting a grill-safe pot (steel or cast iron) full of water in the closed grill to pull the heat out of the Egg. Aluminum kamado grills, like our favorite model from Char-Griller, will cool down much quicker, but as a trade-off, they can’t match the heat retention of ceramic cookers.
The VerdictWhile it’s not as turnkey as, say, a gas grill, I now plan my meals around the Big Green Egg. Unlike my old pellet grill, I like that this kamado doesn't require electricity.
Above all, it’s the durability that's sold me on the Egg. I don’t know that there’s a better-built ceramic kamado out there, and I really appreciate the lack of breakable parts in the construction. Most moderate to serious grilling enthusiasts should have a great time with the Egg, granted they don't balk at the price.
The Pros* Rich, smoky flavor * A ton of versatility: low-, medium-, and high-heat capabilities * Minimal maintenance * Options for both stationary and movable stands * Made from durable ceramic
The Cons* Even the small sizes are heavy * Expensive * More of a learning curve
Key Specs (for size large) Weight: 162 pounds * Grid diameter: 18.25 inches * Cooking area: 262 square inches * Coal bed capacity: Around 12 pounds * Max temperature: 750°F * What’s included: Grill, grill grate * Warranty:* Limited lifetime warranty
FAQsHow do you clean a Big Green Egg?Cleaning the Egg is like like any other grill, whether using a grill brush or soaking the grate to remove tough grime. You will need an ashtray and a coal stoker to get ash out of the bottom. The Egg’s exterior requires an occasional wipe-down with a damp cloth.
How do you use a Big Green Egg? Using an Egg is similar to any other kamado-style grill. The straightforwardness is what makes it an attractive choice: Add charcoal, light the fire, and wait until you’re at your desired temperature. The ceramic build of the Egg is good at maintaining a temperature once you’ve got it where you want it, so things will be relatively hands-free after that.
How do you light a Big Green Egg? I like using paraffin cubes, but many of the Serious Eats team members prefer a chimney, which can be used with any type of charcoal grill.
Why We’re the Experts* Geoff Nudelman is a Serious Eats contributor with a decade of experience testing products and gear across a range of hobbyist categories. He writes for several national and international publications. * For this review, Geoff spent a year with the Big Green Egg to understand how the grill stands up to long-term use.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen it gets to be that hot and sticky time of year, there’s nothing quite like bolis―ice pops that can be found all over Mexico in a variety of flavors. These sweet-tart, jewel-toned bolis de Jamaica (hibiscus) are intensely refreshing, with a fruity, floral flavor that is somewhat similar to cranberry. Frozen inside small plastic bags, they’re extremely convenient for eating on the go.
There are two main types of bolis: bolis de leche (milk bolis) and bolis de agua (water bolis). Flavors of milk bolis may include chocolate milk or key lime pie, and often have swirls of nutella or cajeta or even chunks of cookies or popular snack cakes, like chocolate-covered Gansitos, mixed in.
Water bolis, on the other hand, tend to be fruity. Popular flavors include mango (with or without chamoy), lime, pineapple, and nanche, a small golden fruit that looks like a cherry but with a more pungent flavor. My favorite is made with flor de Jamaica (hibiscus flowers). In Mexico, agua de Jamaica, or hibiscus tea, is a popular cold drink made from the dried flowers of the hibiscus plant, which arrived in the Americas with the African diaspora.
At the peak of summer, even the iciest water boli won’t take too long to soften up and be ready to eat. On cooler days, however, many people either leave them out on the counter for a couple minutes or run them under the tap to make it easier to start eating. For this recipe, I wanted to create a boli that was smoother, less icy, and easy to eat straight out of the freezer. I decided to try adding hydrocolloids, carbohydrates that are used to modify the texture of food. For example, guar gum is a hydrocolloid that is often used as a thickening agent in commercial ice creams. Other common hydrocolloids include starch and gelatin. For my initial tests, I tested two types of widely-available starch: cornstarch and tapioca starch.
My test with cornstarch made a boli with a pudding-like texture. As it thawed, the boli became a bit gummy and ate like cold strawberry jam, which was not what I was after. Even though the batch with tapioca had more potential, it still retained a too soft texture. In the end, neither test produced a clear winner.
I decided to try granulated sugar, which is a powerful tool for altering the texture of both baked and frozen goods, thanks to its hygroscopic properties. Besides adding sweetness, the sugar keeps the boli from freezing into a brick because, like salt, adding sugar to water lowers the freezing point and interferes with the formation of hard ice crystals (like anti-freeze). The resulting boli was appropriately icy and softened quickly once removed from the freezer, becoming deliciously slushy-like as I ate it.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI still had to nail down the Jamaica flavor. To prepare the flor de Jamaica, I tested brewing the flowers in hot and cold water. I found that hot water brought out the flower’s intense tartness (but if cooked too long, gave the tea a bitter edge), while cold extraction highlighted its delicate floral notes. I ended up combining both methods to produce a balanced concentrated tea by starting the dried flowers in cold water, bringing it to a simmer, then letting it cool. Once I strain out the flowers, I stir in the sugar, as well as lime juice (preferably key lime, but the Persian limes that are standard in the US also work well) and salt, which amplify the flavors. That said, you also can give your tea an aromatic or fruity twist by infusing it with a number of spices or even pineapple skins.
It’s important to mention that the freshness of the flor de Jamaica you buy will produce a marked difference in the tea’s flavor. Good-quality dried flor de Jamaica should still be a bit leathery and flexible, not brittle. If the only flor de Jamaica you can get your hands on is old and dusty-dry, you can still make delicious bolis, but taste the boli mixture before freezing and add extra sugar or lime juice as needed.
To freeze the bolis, you’ll need the right plastic bags. A quick search for “boli bags” or “ice pop bags” will turn up a number of options you can order online, if you can’t find them locally. Mine were 2 3/4- by 10-inches, which is a standard size for boli bags. To get the boli mixture into the bag, it’s nice to have a helper on hand to hold the bags open for you. If no one’s around, you can place the bag upright in a cup, fold the top back to keep it open, then pour the mixture in very slowly. The bag will shift and settle as it fills, but as long as you’re pouring slowly and paying attention, you can readjust the bag as you go. Fill the bag halfway then tie it off, making sure to leave a little room in the bag to prevent it from bursting as the liquid inside freezes and expands. After some practice, you’ll get the hang of it.
Once ready to eat, cut or bite off one of the lower corners of the bag to make a hole. You might have to bite through the bag a little bit to get the frozen mixture out, but soon, it will soften in your hand. Mushing it around in the bag as you eat helps soften the boli into a dreamy slushy mix. Just beware of brain freeze and enjoy.
In a medium pot, combine flor de Jamaica and 1 quart (945ml) cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat, lower heat to maintain a simmer, and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezStrain the flor de Jamaica liquid through a fine-mesh strainer set over a large measuring cup or a vessel with a spout (reserve flor de Jamaica for another use; see note). Whisk in sugar, lime juice, and salt until sugar and salt are completely dissolved.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFilling one boli bag at a time, slowly pour in flor de Jamaica mixture until it’s about one-third full (roughly 4 ounces; 115g), then pinch the top of the bag close, and tie it off with a knot (make sure to leave space between the mixture and the knot since the mixture will expand as it freezes). Repeat with remaining flor de Jamaica mixture.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFreeze until solid, at least 4 hours. To serve, trim one corner from the bottom of the bag and enjoy immediately.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment3- by 10-inch bolis bags
NotesThe flor de Jamaica mixture can also be frozen in popsicle molds, if preferred. To freeze in a popsicle mold, divide flor de Jamaica mixture evenly between 10 3-ounce popsicle molds. Freeze until solid, at least 4 hours. To unmold, follow your popsicle mold's instructions.
Dried flor de Jamaica can be bought at Latin grocery stores or ordered online. The dried flowers in a package of flor de Jamaica aren’t technically flowers; they're calyces. In plants, calyces are the little petal-like projections around a fruit, like the little green crown where the tomato stem meets the tomato). I occasionally refer to them as flowers for the sake of convenience and because they’re commonly referred to that way in Spanish. The flowers are edible. After straining them out of the liquid, they can (and should) be reserved to use as a filling for tacos. Tacos de Jamaica make a surprisingly satisfying meal, especially with beans or a little chorizo. Without the chorizo, it’s a popular option among vegans and vegetarians where I live.
Make-Ahead and StorageJamaica bolis can be frozen for up to 3 months.
Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerSummer is the time for sweet corn (and tomatoes, and peaches, and eggplant, and bell peppers, and summer squash, and melons, and berries, and cucumbers, and—wow, you gotta love summer for all this produce). After my weekly farmers market haul, I mostly just shove my ears of corn into the microwave for speed and convenience. Plus, it's a cooking method I've confirmed through testing works very well.
But there are so many ways to cook fresh, sweet summer corn, and sometimes we just need a nudge to break out of our habits and do something a different. So here's a collection of many of our favorite methods of cooking corn so that we can all enjoy it in as many ways as possible, for a summer of eating that's as fresh and exciting as the mountains of produce we're all so lucky to enjoy.
"Boiled" CornSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe thing to note here is that I've put "boiled" in quotes. That's because the result is like a classic boiled ear, but the methods are optimized for the very best results—which, it turns out, means we don't actually boil the corn at all. Instead you can choose one of three great methods depending on your available time and setup.
For those with a big pot and access to an instant-read thermometer, my very favorite method is a cold-start poach in which the corn and its water are brought up to 180°F, then covered and left to sit for at least 10 minutes. This process perfectly gelatinizes the corn's starches so that there's no chalky texture to the corn milk, but avoids breaking down the kernels' natural pectin, preventing wrinkly, collapsed, mushy corn.
Alternatively, you can steam the corn, which works great and is quick, thanks to the need to heat a much smaller amount of water, or you can microwave the ears in the husk, which is my go-to method when I just want an ear or two (though I've had success with microwaving up to four ears at once).
Grilled CornSerious Eats / J. Kenji Lopez-AltGrilling corn produces one of the more flavorful cobs we've ever eaten, the sweetness concentrated and contrasted with a roasty depth. Once again, we offer options here: You can grill the cobs naked on the grill for the most intense grilled flavor, in aluminum foil for low-mess cobs for a crowd, or in the husk, which produces a kind of hybrid steam-grilled flavor with lightly smoky and grassy notes from the charred husk.
No matter which you choose, you won't be sorry.
Sous Vide CornSerious Eats / J. Kenji Lopez-AltThe truth is that sous vide produces corn on the cob that tastes just like boiled, so in theory I could have just lumped it into the "boiled" section above. But the method is different enough, and requires enough specialized gear, that I think it's worth highlighting it separately. The method comes with advantages and disadvantages, so let's just take a quick look:
Pros
- Foolproof results due to precise temperature control.
- Ability to infuse corn with flavor by adding aromatics to the bag.
Cons
- Wasteful: Works better when you double-bagging the cobs in disposable plastic.
- The 30-minute cooking time is on the longer end for corn.
Sautéed CornEsquites is a less messy, no-grill-required way to enjoy all the flavors of Mexican elotes.Serious Eats / Diana ChistrugaIf you take a few minutes to cut the kernels off the cob, a whole set of other techniques opens up to you. You can, for instance, sauté those kernels—the high heat, light coating of fat, and near-constant movement produces corn that's perfectly cooked, lightly browned, and very flavorful—and that's before we even add flavorings to it. There are lots of ways to sauté corn, but one of our favorites is the classic Mexican esquites with lime, mayo, and cotija.
If you want to diverge from the classics, let this recipe for sautéed corn with chorizo act as your guide. Whether you cook this exact recipe or not, the basic technique applies to other flavorings and ingredients: Start with any ingredients that need longer cooking like diced onion or pieces of fatty meat or sausage, then add the corn, and finally finish anything that needs to maintain its freshness and not cook long or at all.
Cooked in Soups and StewsSerious Eats / Qi AiThis is a broad category of techniques that can span anything from a smooth and creamy corn soup or chowder all the way up to a much chunkier stewed vegetable dish like succotash. For brothier or creamier corn dishes, make sure to take advantage of the flavor packed into the cobs themselves if at all possible by scraping the corn milk from them and adding it to the pot, or even simmering the cobs in liquid to extract as much flavor as possible.
For more stewed corn dishes with less (or even minimal liquid), the key is simply to not overcook the corn. Add it towards the end so that it cooks long enough the grow tender, but not so long that it becomes mushy and loses its fresh sweetness.
Baked CornSerious Eats / Vicky WasikWhile there is a broad world of baked corn dishes like cornbread that use dried ingredients like cornmeal, I'm focused solely on fresh corn here. And yes, you can still bake it, often in combination with dried corn. Stella Parks' excellent corn casserole is a beautiful one-skillet dish that goes from oven to table, golden and bubbling. It's loaded with sweet corn and just enough cornmeal to thicken the batter up.
And we also have a buttery sweet-and-savory Pennsylvania-Dutch corn pudding that is cornmeal-free. The key to this one is to grind the corn kernels into a very chunky purée to form a thick slurry that is set with the corn's natural starches, eggs, and just a touch of cornstarch.
Salad-izedSerious Eats / Vicky WasilAh, this is kind of a cheat because "salad" isn't really a technique at all, and most corn salad recipes start with one of the other cooking methods. But at this point I've discussed tender corn on the cob, roasty grilled corn, puréed corn, and baked corn, and I feel like cold, refreshing ways of serving corn have gotten left out in the process. So just don't forget: You can cook corn in some of the above ways, and then turn it into a salad. That's cool, literally, and that's welcome in this damn summer heat.
Here are a couple great ideas: grilled corn, tomato, and feta salad and this killer Thai corn salad with salted duck egg.
Serious Eats / Caroline LangeIt’s ankles-out season, which means it’s iced coffee season, lemonade season, cheeky-white-wine-over-ice season—really, iced everything season. And that means it’s time to think about ice cubes. Too often, ice is an afterthought: old, scraped from a freezer bin, melted into a brick, weirdly stale-tasting, kind of lumpy. But ice at home can be nice!
What makes a great ice cube tray? First, the trays should be easy to fill and maneuver into the freezer—the freezer is the last place you want wobbles or spills. It should also be fairly easy to pop out the cubes; the cubes should remain intact and the tray should cooperate. (That is, no shattering or flying cubes.) Of course, the ice should taste good! This partially has to do with your water, but the material the ice cube tray is made of plays an important role, as some are more prone to soaking up “off” freezer odors over time, odors that travel from the trays to the ice and then to your cold brew, Negroni, or tall, cool drink of water.
We put 12 ice cube trays—well-known brands and newcomers, bestsellers, pricey and budget options, in a range of shapes, sizes, materials, and styles (including some funky ones!)—to the test to find out which ice cube trays are the best.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe PHINOX ice cube tray is a thrill to use. It’s genuinely fun, like popping bubble wrap, thanks to the design, which does away with seemingly all the frustrating features of other ice cube trays. The ice is easy to release, and the bin holds a dinner party’s worth of ice.
This tray-and-bin combo wins the award for best-looking ice cube tray. It performed well, too: Plastic bin and lid plus thick silicone ice cube tray equals crisp-edged ice cubes and minimal freezer odor.
If you’re looking for the best version of an old-school, if-it-ain’t-broke ice cube tray, look no further than the durable, no-frills Kitch Easy Release tray. True to its name, the generously sized ice cubes pop out with almost no effort but don’t jump from the tray like ice cubes from similar classic trays tend to.
A hidden stainless steel frame helps this silicone ice cube tray hold its shape, individually molded divots make popping out single cubes effortless, and a well-fitting silicone lid helps keep out “off” flavors and mysterious freezer debris.
Life is about small joys, no? And this ice cube tray, which makes tiny, perfectly spherical ice, was definitely a source of delight during testing. Senior commerce editor Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, who already owns this ice cube tray, notes that it brings her “infinite joy.”
The TestsTesting the ice cube trays in a home freezer gave a realistic understanding of how they performed.Serious Eats / Caroline Lange Fill and Carry Test: We filled each ice cube tray with water and carried it to the freezer. We held the ice cube tray with one hand while opening the door, then placed the tray in an available spot. (We tested using a standard-size front-loading freezer with a door, as opposed to a top-loading, drawer-type, or chest freezer.) We assessed whether it was easy to fill each tray evenly, what it was like to fit on lids when applicable, and whether the tray wobbled or spilled on its trip to the freezer. * Release and Chill Test: We noted what it was like to release the ice cubes from each tray: Did it require a lot of effort? Was it intuitive? Did the ice come out cleanly, or were there cracks or shards? Then we filled a 10-ounce tumbler with as much ice as it would hold, topped it off with room-temperature (about 70°F) water, and observed how long it took the ice to melt. * Taste Test: We filled up the finalist trays with a fresh batch of ice and let them sit in the freezer for a week. Then we plopped them into glasses of water and sipped to see if we could discern any “off” flavors that had traveled from the freezer to the ice cube trays and the ice cubes themselves. * General Use/Wash Test:* We noted how easy it was to wash each of the best-so-far trays and any other included components, like lids, bins, and scoops. We also considered the make of each tray, whether they seemed cut out for daily use, and what it was like to use them overall.
What We LearnedSilicone Was the Best Material for Special Ice ShapesSilicone trays allow for easy release—especially with specialty-shaped ice cubes.Serious Eats / Caroline LangeWant a really big ice cube? What about a perfect cube? What about a special shape? Silicone ice molds, like the W&P Peak Silicone Everyday Ice Tray, are the way to go. The flexible material held its shape during testing but was still easy to twist and turn for unmolding.
Plastic Was the Best Material for Keeping Out Odors and FlavorsIf you drink ice water, you know that cubes can sometimes pick up mysterious flavors in the freezer.Serious Eats / Caroline LangeA thicker plastic tray, like the ice cube tray from Kitch, does a better job of preventing the smell and taste of the freezer from traveling into ice and ice cube trays than silicone, which can be an odor magnet! If a plastic ice cube tray starts to take on smells, give it a run through the dishwasher (top rack, please) and you should be back in business. Silicone is a little trickier: Place the silicone ice cube tray (make sure it’s 100% silicone) on a baking sheet, then bake for 30 minutes in a 350°F oven. Let cool completely, then wash with soap and water and refill.
Are Lids and Bins Necessary for Ice Cube Trays?A large storage bin underneath the trays is helpful for stockpiling ice cubes.Serious Eats / Caroline LangeAs long as they’re well-made, they can be very helpful. Tight-fitting lids and bins (stackable with the ice cube tray, ideally) mean you can stock up on ice. They also protect ice from those dreaded freezer odors. Four out of our five winners (the PHINOX, the W&P Ice Box, the W&P Peak, and the WIBIMEN) had lids that were well-fitting and well-made, and three out of five had thoughtfully designed bins. But a few of the ice cube trays we tested (like the ice cube trays from Williams Sonoma, DOUQAS, Gorilla Grip, and OXO) had lids and/or bins that either were troublesome or felt flimsy; this was off-putting enough to knock them out of the competition.
What’s the Best Size and Shape for Ice Cube Trays?The shape of ice you prefer will depend, of course, on how you like to use it.Serious Eats / Caroline LangeThat depends on your freezer, your level of ice consumption, and what you’re using ice for. When shopping for ice cube trays, consider what you’ll be making with your ice and how much ice you really use. If you’re a Friday-night cocktail kind of person, you probably just need one or two ice cube trays. If you’re an ice water devotee or a daily iced coffee drinker, you’re likely of the opinion that the more ice cubes, the better. How often do you want to make ice? If the answer is not very often (and if the idea of running out of ice makes your blood go cold), a lot of ice cube trays and/or a storage bin might be good ideas.
Where Do Specialty Ice Cube Trays Fit in Here? What’s Worth the Splurge—or Not?It's hard to resist aesthetically pleasing ice cubes, like these spheres made in a WIBIMEN tray.Serious Eats / Caroline LangeThe most important consideration here is whether or not you’ll actually use it. So much about ice cubes comes down to personal preference and hydration routines. For example, if you drink water mostly out of reusable water bottles and it’s gotta be cold, an ice cube tray that specifically makes long, skinny ice cubes for water bottles might be great for you!
The Criteria: What to Look for in an Ice Cube Tray Serious Eats / Caroline LangeThe best ice cube trays were easy to fill evenly, didn’t wobble or spill on the trip to the freezer, and were stable in the freezer. The ice cubes released without much effort and without cracking or splintering. After a week in the freezer, the cubes from the best trays smelled and tasted neutral. Finally, the best ice cube trays washed up easily.
Our Favorite Ice Cube TraysWhat we liked: A rigid plastic rim gives structure to the two ice cube trays, each of which has 32 individually molded soft plastic cubes. The trays stack neatly on top of each other and perch sturdily on top of a storage bin. A lid fits on top of the trays, minimizing the possibility of spills. But best of all is releasing the ice cubes, which you do by flipping each tray upside down on top of the bin, placing the lid on top, then pressing gently down. Little prongs on the lid poke each ice cube out simultaneously—no twisting, no straining, no need to run under cold water. The bin holds up to 120 cubes at a time, and subtle handles make it easy to pull out of the freezer without jutting out and taking up more space.
What we didn’t like: We liked almost everything about this ice cube tray, but if it has one drawback, it’s its size. Fully assembled—bin plus two ice cube trays plus the lid—the PHINOX is pretty big: 10 inches long, five inches wide, and 5.75 inches tall when stacked with the ice cube trays. That’s a commitment, especially if you often find yourself jostling for space in the freezer. The plastic is BPA-free, but the trays are not dishwasher-safe.
Key Specs Material: BPA-free plastic * Dimensions: 10 x 5 x 4.25 inches as just the bin and the lid, and 5.75 inches when stacked with the ice cube trays * Size and shape of ice: 0.7 x 0.9-inch slightly rounded cubes * Number of cubes per tray: 32 cubes per tray (2 trays included) * Care:* Hand-wash only
Serious Eats / Caroline LangeWhat we liked: This guy is sturdy, sleek, and handsome, with a dark gray ice cube tray made of thick silicone and a frosted plastic bin and lid, all of which stack together. The tray makes 32 one-inch cubes at a time, and the bin can hold nearly 100 cubes—but the whole operation is surprisingly, pleasingly compact.
What we didn’t like: The thick silicone helped make this ice cube tray-and-bin combo feel more stable than many other silicone ice cube trays—no chance of spilling, tipping, or bending here—but the downside was that the ice cubes were a bit tricky to release from the tray. Fitting together the bin, tray, and lid took a little finesse, too.
Key Specs Material: Lead-free silicone, BPA-free plastic * Dimensions: 9 x 4.5 x 3.25 inches as just the bin and the lid, and 4.5 inches when stacked with the ice cube tray * Size and shape of ice: 1-inch cubes * Number of cubes per tray: 32 cubes * Care:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Caroline LangeWhat we liked: These affordable, BPA-free, dishwasher-safe plastic trays, which come in a set of four, are lightweight but sturdy, with convenient thumb holds; they’re easy to fill and to carry to the freezer with one hand without any wobbling or spilling. Every one of the ice cubes released cleanly—no cracking or splintering—with a simple twist of the tray, and they were easy to remove one by one once released from the tray. All of the above makes the Kitch trays a good pick for folks with hand mobility concerns. The trays stack neatly, so if you have the space, you could make all four trays’ worth at once. These were among the largest ice cubes we tested and made a generous number of cubes per tray (16!). One more thing: These easy-to-wash and dishwasher-safe trays would be great for folks who like to freeze things other than water (like pesto or broth) in ice cube trays.
What we didn’t like: Neither the ice nor the tray picked up any odors after a week in the freezer, but it’s likely that they would eventually (and don’t have any kind of lid or bin to protect them). That might just be the fate of ice cube trays!
Key Specs Material: BPA-free plastic * Dimensions: 12 x 4 x 6 inches * Size and shape of ice: Slightly rounded rectangles, about 1.25 x 2 inches * Number of cubes per tray: 16 (4 trays included) * Care:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Caroline LangeWhat we liked: If it’s big, perfect cubes you’re after, you’ll need a silicone ice cube tray. The best we tested was the W&P Peak Silicone Everyday Ice Tray with Protective Lid. Each cube is molded individually, so it’s easy to pop out just as many as you need—ideal for folks who want to sip something cold and strong from a rocks glass. A silicone lid fits the ice cube tray well, helping to keep out any stray freezer crumbs or smells. And best of all, the tray has a hidden stainless steel frame in its rim, which adds the stability that many silicone ice cube trays lack and helps the W&P model move smoothly from sink to freezer without tipping.
What we didn’t like: These trays are some of the priciest we tested. The individual cube molds are almost too flexible; in places where the tray sat on an uneven surface, some cubes were less perfectly cube-y than others. The W&P tray was easy to wash by hand, but it was also the only one that picked up odor from the freezer, although the ice cubes remained neutral-smelling and -tasting.
Key Specs Material: BPA-free, lead-free, dishwasher-safe silicone * Dimensions: 7.63 x 5.63 x 1.63 inches * Size and shape of ice: 1.25-inch cubes * Number of cubes per tray: 12 * Care:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Caroline LangeWhat we liked: This set (which includes two plastic trays, a lidded plastic bin, and a scoop) produced notable pleasure in the shape of 0.8-inch spheres of ice. FUN! Is it the most practical ice-making system for your daily needs? Probably not, but it was easy to use and compact, and the bin was sturdy and convenient. As senior commerce editor Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, who has this ice cube tray at home, says, “I've owned this ice cube tray for about two years and it's held up! The small orbs of ice bring me infinite joy. I love to use them for cocktails (like an Aperol spritz!) and they jazz up even seltzer water.” These little spheres would make a good substitute for crushed ice in a cocktail.
What we didn’t like: Figuring out just how much water to add to get perfect spheres takes practice (NBD, it’s just ice and you’ll get the hang of it!). The first time we pressed the lid of the ice tray down, it squirted us! (Just do this part over the sink.) The tray covers are a bit tricky to get on and off.
Key Specs Material: BPA-free plastic * Dimensions: 7.4 x 4.49 x 2.95 inches * Size and shape of ice: 0.80-inch spheres * Number of cubes per tray: 33 (2 trays included) * Care:* Hand-wash only
Serious Eats / Caroline LangeThe Competition OXO Good Grips Ice Cube Tray: We didn’t like this ice cube tray from OXO one bit! We found the sliding lid, intended to keep out odors and dispense only as much ice as you want at a time, stiff and bothersome, and the cubes routinely splintered when we tried to release them. * Gorilla Grip Stackable Ice Cube Tray and Bin: This set of lidded trays with a bin was great in some respects—it can make and store a lot of ice at a time—but the stiff tray was hard to twist in order to release the cubes, and the lids on the trays felt flimsy. * Tovolo Perfect Ice Cube Tray: A good contender in the silicone ice cube tray department, but very tippy and prone to spilling. (Also, by nature of it being silicone, it was prone to smelling like the freezer.) * Williams Sonoma Perfect Ice Cube Tray With Lid: This silicone tray was sturdier than the Tovolo, but we couldn’t get the plastic lid to stay on after freezing. * Rubbermaid Quick Release Ice Cube Tray: This tray from Rubbermaid is a steal at under $3 a pop, and the cubes released easily during testing. But the Kitch ice cube tray, our winner in the classic category, is very* similar and noticeably better on a few fronts (bigger cubes, sturdier tray, made in the USA). * Rubbermaid Plastic Ice Cube Tray: These felt flimsy and cheap. The ice cubes did release extremely easily—so easily that they barely stayed in the tray! * DOQAUS Ice Cube Trays: These had a similar basic construction to our winning tray from PHINOX, but were less compact and came without a bin, and significantly more effort was required to release the ice from the trays.
FAQsHow do you get ice cubes to freeze clear?It’s not so easy! Making ice using boiled water will get you fairly close in a regular ice cube tray. Keep in mind that silicone will stand up to boiling temperatures but plastic might melt. If you’re really set on it, you’ll need insulated ice cube trays, which freeze from the top down. When ice freezes in one direction—as opposed to from all sides simultaneously, as it does in most ice cube trays—the frozen water pushes impurities, which cause cloudiness, away from the center of the cube, creating clear ice. You could also use this snazzy thing.
What’s the best shape of ice for cocktails?It depends on the kind of cocktail! For spirits or spirit-forward drinks like Negronis, bigger ice cubes are best, as they melt the slowest, meaning your cocktail doesn’t get as diluted. If you want to get really technical, spheres melt the slowest; here are the best sphere ice cube molds we tested.) For slushy cocktails like mint juleps, crushed ice (or pebble ice) is the thing. Highballs and spritzes get mid-sized cubes. And you can use any kind of ice to shake cocktails, since you’ll strain it out anyway. Here’s a little more information on what kind of ice is best for which cocktails.
What is pebble ice?Pebble ice is essentially small, rounded bits of ice, often with a nubbly texture. It’s sometimes called pellet ice or nugget ice and is generally made in large industrial machines (like what you’d get from the soda fountain at a fast-food chain). Pebble ice is often slightly aerated, making it “softer” on the teeth and very satisfying to crunch into.
Are silicone ice cube trays good?They’re great for many things! Silicone ice cube trays are excellent if you want a specific shape or a really big piece of ice, as the flexible material makes it easier to remove the shapes from the molds. They do tend to take on odors more quickly than other materials, but you can zap away the odor by baking the silicone ice cube trays in a 350°F oven for 30 minutes or so. Just make sure the ice cube trays are 100% silicone. Lids can help keep out odors, and some designs, like our pick for the best silicone ice cube tray, the W&P Peak Silicone Everyday Tray with Lid, have features that make them extra sturdy/less floppy.
Why We’re the Experts Caroline Lange is a freelance writer who has spent more than 10 years working in food media. * Caroline has tested recipes for acclaimed and award-winning cookbooks, and has also worked as a freelance recipe tester for a variety of publications, including the New York Times*. * For this review, Caroline tested 12 ice cube trays in her crowded home freezer, evaluating them across various metrics.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen’s the last time you chose your potato chips? The answer is: never! You don’t choose potato chips! Potato chips choose you. They come for you at some point around the first of your grandma’s annual Labor Day barbecues that you remember and then you’re drawn, moth to flame, to the same [redacted, crunch-less bite-sized paper bits] each time you find yourself in the chip aisle.
Whispers It doesn’t have to be this way... The world of potato chips is vast and nuanced. You can change things for your children by making better choices/picking up a different bag of chips for this year’s gathering. Be!! The change!! You want to see!!!!! In the world!!!!!!
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAnd so, out of this deep-rooted sense for public service, the Serious Eats team recently pulled together nine brands of original-flavor (a.k.a. plain, unflavored, but not unsalted) potato chips you're likely to find in your local supermarket and methodically, empirically, scientifically! tasted its way through them all in a quest to identify the very best. And we loved every minute of it…while complaining throughout that we should’ve made tuna melts to go with these piles of chips and also that salt & vinegar is a better time than plain chips!
The Contenders* Cape Cod Original Kettle Cooked Potato Chips * Deep River Snacks Potato Chips, Kettle Cooked, Original Salted * Hal’s Original Flavor Chips * Herr’s Potato Chips, Crisp ’n Tasty * Kettle Brand Sea Salt Potato Chips * Lay’s Classic Potato Chips * Siete Sea Salt Potato Chips * Utz Original Potato Chips * Wise Potato Chips, Golden, Original
The CriteriaA good original potato chip is—and let me be the first one to say this—crunchy. Yeah, I said crunchy before I said “potato-y!” The crunch and the salt matter more than the potato of it all!! You’ll know you’ve encountered a quality potato chip when the following series of events occur, exactly in this order:
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez1. You and the person across the table hear a crunch upon first bite. 2. You immediately know that chip won’t be your last in this sitting. 3. You see or feel no need to wipe your hands of grease before you reach for a second chip. 4. You eat the second chip; you let slip involuntarily, from the bowels of something deep and unknown inside of you: “Oh god, I’m in love with these.” The person across the table from you confirms: “Oh god, I know, same.” 5. You unwittingly slap at a pile of napkins after chip four to clear that delicious afterthought of grease. 6. You find that 12 fluid ounces of a soda in the vicinity quenches you exactly of your thirst.
Anyway! To level the playing field of ALL AVAILABLE CHIPS, we zeroed in on original flavor, non-ridged potato-only chips. No other veggies, no other flavors—just potatoes and just salt (and the oil the potatoes were fried in, of course). If you end up liking this particular batch of nonsense, we will move on to other (better) flavors and textures. Just say the word, my angry, DM-happy sweets!!
A few notes on our overall findings before we get on to the rankings: This group had a very clear-cut preference for a kettle-cooked, sea-salted chip. While I've listed the ingredients for each brand, I couldn’t correlate any particular frying oil to “a better chip,” though it’s worth noting that the only instance of avocado oil in the whooole bunch landed itself at the very bottom. I found nostalgia played less of a role than it seems to have in previous tests, which was fun!! Maybe everyone is generally feeling better about things? Hahahahahah!!
OK. Whatever. The chips!
The RankingsKettle Brand Sea Salt Potato Chips, 4.16/5Imagine a potato chip being so bold as to taste like a…potato! Et voila: these!! Each taster remarked on the pervasive-in-a-nice-way potato flavor, oftentimes noting in subsequent options that that same crucial flavor was lacking. These kettle-cooked chips were substantive, slightly greasy (Amanda said she’d expect to want to wash her hands after a handful of them), and LARGE. The latter prompted Genevieve to write in her notes: “These are practically the size of my palm! (Is this Kettle??)” Classic Genevieve. Classic potato chips!
Ingredients: Potatoes, vegetable oils (canola and/or sunflower and/or safflower and/or soybean), sea salt.
Hal’s New York Original Flavor Chips, 3.83/5Perhaps the only instance in which the immediately notable presence of oil felt correct rather than icky. They were “oily, but together with the super crispiness, it’s not a bad thing,” wrote one tester, while another called the oil "just right.” Now that I’m rereading these notes, I see no comments in the realm of saltiness or flavor, so…we’re going to call Hal’s (also kettle-cooked!) a fantastic option for those who like to ruin people in the vicinity’s lives via satisfying crunching and also don’t have time for more than a quick hands-to-pants wipe.
Ingredients: Potatoes, sunflower oil, sea salt
Deep River Snacks Potato Chips, Kettle Cooked, Original Salted, 3.61/5Our first heavy-weight contender! These chips, also kettle-cooked, didn’t melt after the first snap–they were substantial enough that you had to chew a little bit. They were appropriately salty, impressively crispy, and, again, pretty thick (...to the point that it was the only reason I could pinpoint these not ranking higher). Even still: This was the only chip of the bunch editors remarked they kept coming back to.
Ingredients: Potatoes, vegetable oil (contains one of more of the following: corn, cottonseed, sunflower, or canola oil), sea salt
Herr’s Potato Chips, Crisp ’n Tasty, 3.56/5Distinctly savory, these morsels!! Like, to the point that “They barely remind me of a potato?” Kelli wrote. Genevieve even compared the experience to eating a cured egg yolk, which reflected in just about everyone’s numbers. Herr’s (again again again: kettle-cooked!) are a more interesting and nuanced option for those looking for flavor above crunch and grease. This is also the first appearance of regular old salt in the batch; the top-seeded picks called out "sea salt" on their labels.
Ingredients: Potatoes, vegetable oil (corn, cottonseed, sunflower), salt.
Lay’s Classic Potato Chips, 3.16/5You can take a horse to water, but...nope, that’s not it. You can teach a person to fish, but...woof, no, not that one either. How does the saying go? “You can think you’ve put enough potato chips in front of a group of absurdly detail-oriented food nerds that they won't be able to ID Lay’s, but…they will see right through your ruse because Lay’s was the golden-ish yellow, oil-slicked, snackable sog of their youths?” Yeah, that’s the one. (OK, in all seriousness: Here we enter not kettle-cooked territory, as well as a distinct absence of sea salt!! They’ll both make a return toward the end, but…we’ll cross that bridge when we come to it.) (Nailed that last one!!) Aside from clocking these as Lay's right away, the group didn't have a lot to say about these in their tasting feedback sheets.
Ingredients: Potatoes, vegetable oil (sunflower oil, and/or corn oil, and/or canola oil), salt.
Wise Potato Chips, Golden, Original, 3.15/5These tasted like Lay’s, but like if Lay’s had made a last-minute decision to throw the craveable-yet-manageable greasiness of their product out the window? More helpfully, Amanda wrote: “These tasted like a processed food that a ‘90s health PSA would warn against.” Helen noted an overwhelming oily aftertaste. This makes sense, as this was the chip with the most potential oils involved, per its ingredient list (“one or more” of no less than five different oils).
Ingredients: Potatoes, vegetable oil (contains one or more of the following: corn, cottonseed, sunflower, soybean or canola oil), salt.
Utz Original Potato Chips, 3/5To look at these is to think you’ve laid eyes on the Utopian Ideal of Potato Chips. And…they were very nice!! I think we all just hope that when we are re-defining “the perfect potato chip” (after society collapses and we begin rebuilding again, etc., etc.) that we will want said chips to taste fresh! And salty!
Ingredients: Potatoes, vegetable oil (contains one or more of the following: cottonseed oil, corn oil, and/or sunflower oil), salt.
Cape Cod Original Kettle Cooked Potato Chips, 2.83/5The group’s tasting notes for these nearly identically mirrored those of their Deep River ones. The distinction was that these (which are kettle-cooked, btw!) were even thicker, which helped crystallize that our preference is a thinner-cut chip! I would go ahead and copy/paste everyone’s pithy lil notes from this one, but they all can be boiled down to: “Wow! Crunchy! Wow! Too thick?”
Ingredients: Potatoes, vegetable oils (canola and/or sunflower and/or safflower and/or soybean), sea salt
Siete Sea Salt Potato Chips, 2.56/5Contrastingly, the kettle-cooked Siete chips were so thin they practically melted, prompting everyone to comment on their sogginess. There was a prominent grease to the whole experience, enveloping an otherwise very nice potato flavor. This is the only one of the batch that used avocado oil. Related: I’m adding “avocado oil taste test” to my Q3 pitch list. :)
Ingredients: Potatoes, avocado oil, sea salt
Our Testing MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted with brands completely hidden and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample 1 first, while taster B will taste sample 6 first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation of actual results possible.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoThe marriage of chiles and nuts is well celebrated in Mexican cuisine— in moles, chocolate bars, and drinks, to name a few applications. The smoky, nutty, savory pairing keeps people coming back for more. My favorite way to enjoy this combination of flavors is in salsa macha. I drizzle this fruity, spicy chile oil over almost everything, including eggs, grilled meats, and almost all my tacos.
Salsa macha originated in Orizaba, Veracruz, but has since spread to dining tables across Mexico. In more recent times, it’s become a popular condiment in Texas restaurants and store bought versions of salsa macha are sold in many markets across the US. On the heals of the rise in popularity of similarly spicy, crunchy Asian chili crisp condiments the US, The New York Times even named salsa macha the most valuable condiment of 2020. The name macha comes from the word machacar which means “to crush,” referring to the traditional preparation of the salsa, in which chiles and nuts are crushed in a mortar and pestle before they’re blended with oil. Another interpretation of the salsa’s name is that it is associated with “macho,” referring to those brave enough to handle the intense heat in some of its iterations.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSalsa macha is typically made with fried chiles, garlic, peanuts, and sesame seeds, but recently varieties made with seaweed, chicatanas (ants), black garlic, fermented soybeans, or coffee have begun popping up in restaurants and store shelves. These playful iterations of salsa macha can be fun to try, but the nutty, spicy sauce hardly needs anything more than its staple ingredients. I’ve kept my recipe closer to its original form. And while the ingredient list and its preparation is fairly simple, there are a few key tips to making a salsa macha with the perfect balance of crunchy textures and fruity, smoky flavors with just the right level of heat. Here are my guidelines for making salsa macha that’s way better than any restaurant or store bought version.
5 Tips for Dialing in the Flavors and Textures for Salsa Matcha1. Use a blend of chiles. To produce a fruity, smoky salsa with a solid punch of heat, I went for a blend of morita, puya, and árbol chiles. The morita chiles provide a chocolatey smokiness that's balanced by the sweet, fruity puya chiles and the fiery heat of árbol chiles. I like to add a dried habanero chile to amplify the heat, but feel free to omit for a milder version of the salsa. Trust me, the salsa is still plenty spicy without it! If these specific chile varieties are unavailable, there are a few substitutions you can make: swap chipotle chiles for the morita chiles as they're both smoked chiles made from jalapeños. Puya chiles can be substituted with equally fruity guajillo chiles, and chiles de árbol can be substituted with dried Japones or Thai chiles, which pack a similar punch of heat. I don’t bother removing the seeds from any of the chiles. Not only is it less prep work, but the seeds actually enhance the nutty profile of the salsa.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso2. Amp up flavor with a combination of dried seeds and nuts. It's common to use a range of seeds and nuts in salsa macha. I prefer the combination of sesame seeds, peanuts, pumpkin seeds, and slivered almonds to increase the nuttiness and incorporate a variety of textures in my salsa macha.
3. Fry the ingredients in stages. Before the salsa is blended, all of the ingredients are first fried in oil. This enhances flavor in two main ways: the oil is infused with the flavor of every ingredient during frying, and frying the ingredients creates a richer, toastier, nuttier flavor profile in the final salsa. To achieve this without burning any of the delicate ingredients, I opted for a two-step frying process.
First fry: The first fry is at a lower temperature. I add the garlic when the oil is still at room temperature, and heat the two together slowly over medium-low heat, making sure the temperature doesn’t exceed 275℉. During this extended cooking time at a relatively low heat, the oil is infused with plenty of garlic flavor. It’s also a foolproof way to fry the garlic so it browns evenly without burning. As we all know, garlic can burn within the blink of an eye and no one enjoys the acrid taste of burnt garlic. Once the garlic just turns brown, add the chiles and fry until just softened. Note that the chiles will not change color or turn crispy during this brief time—the purpose is to quickly soften them so they’ll blend easily with the other ingredients and to infuse the oil with their flavor. It’s important there aren’t any pieces of garlic or chiles left behind in the oil for too long, as they’ll turn bitter if they burn.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSecond fry: For frying the nuts and seeds, the oil temperature is cranked up to 325℉. The dense nuts and seeds need a higher frying temperature to properly crisp and brown.
4. Blend until coarsely ground. Make sure not to over blend the mixture—doing so can make it grainy, creating an unpleasant sandy mouthfeel. The ideal consistency includes small pieces that maintain their crunch.
5. Stir the salsa well before each use. Since salt doesn’t dissolve into oil, it will settle at the bottom over time, so give the salsa a stir if it's been sitting between uses.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoThis salsa macha is great spooned over eggs, seafood, and grilled meats, but it’s extremely versatile and finding new ways to use it is half the fun. I recommend adding a dash at the end of a stir fry or mixing it into your pasta sauce.
In a small saucepan, combine oil and smashed garlic. Cook over medium-low heat (the oil temperature should not exceed 275℉(135℃), until garlic is golden and fragrant, 8 to 12 minutes.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoWhen garlic just turns golden, carefully add the chiles (they may sizzle slightly when adding), and cook until softened, about 45 seconds. Set a fine-mesh strainer over a medium heat-proof bowl, and pour the oil mixture through the strainer into the bowl. Transfer the strained solids to a blender. Blend the solids on medium speed, scraping down the sides of the blender jar as needed, until evenly chopped, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoReturn the strained oil to the now-empty saucepan and heat over medium-high until oil registers 325°F. Add peanuts, almonds, pumpkin seeds, and sesame seeds and fry, stirring constantly, until peanuts and almonds turn light brown, about 2 minutes. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer set over the now-empty medium heat-proof bowl. Reserve the strained nuts and oil separately and let cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoOnce the oil is cooled, add the fried nut mixture and reserved oil to the blender. Pulse until solids are broken down into small pieces (about the size of the sesame seeds), about 10 pulses. Season with salt to taste. Serve or transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate. Stir to recombine before using.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSpecial EquipmentSmall saucepan, blender, fine-mesh strainer
NotesMorita chiles can be substituted with chipotle as they're both smoked chiles made from jalapeños. Puya chiles can be substituted with guajillo chiles since they share a fruity flavor. Chiles de arbol can be substituted with dried Japones or Thai chiles which pack a similar punch of heat.
Since salt doesn’t dissolve in oil it will settle at the bottom. Make sure to stir well before each use.
Make-Ahead and StorageSalsa macha can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezEveryone has their method for boiling "perfect" ears of sweet corn. My in-laws have sworn for years that the best method is to drop the corn into a pot of boiling water, return it to a boil, then shut off the heat. At this point, they say it's ready, but they claim you can leave the corn in the covered pot as long as the next day and it'll still be great.
Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerAfter cooking more more than 60 samples of corn, I've found that their method wasn't far off—but the very best, most foolproof way involves no boiling at all. Now wait—wait—because some of you have probably heard this line before and are wondering why I'm writing it as if it's something new. For those who don't know, the "best corn isn't boiled" line is more or less identical to the advice Cook's Illustrated has long given, but my method is different in small but important ways, and when I say no boiling, I mean it. Literally no boiling. Not before the corn is put in the pot, and not after.
In all my testing, though, I've come to the conclusion that there are a couple other worthy methods of cooking corn on the cob. One of them is, in all honesty, the way I most often cook corn at home, especially when I want a cob for myself after a trip to the farmers market: the microwave. In side-by-side tests, I've confirmed it is a great method that can produce excellent results. The other method that works quite well is steaming, which does involve boiling, but thankfully it's a much smaller quantity of water, which is a plus both in terms of time and energy use.
What Is "Perfect" Corn on the Cob?What is "perfect" corn on the cob? I tend to like mine a little on the less done side, even enjoying a raw ear from time to time, while others want theirs fully cooked and tender. Some people prefer the ultra-long-lasting-sweetness of modern corn hybrids, and others will swear that what we've gained in sustained sweetness has been at the expense of the more robust corn flavor of older varieties.
I think we can all agree, though, that what we don't want is corn that's left to swelter until shriveled and mushy, its flavor lost to the pot and heat. Generally speaking, we want corn on the cob that is sweet, not starchy, with kernels that are plump and tender, and not in the least bit shriveled or mushy.
Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerTo a large degree, corn quality starts at the market, so before we get to cooking methods, let's go over a few shopping and handling tips I rely on to make sure I'm setting myself up for success before the cooking starts:
Shopping and Handling Tips for Corn on the CobCorn famously loses sweetness as soon as it's picked, its natural simple sugars converting into less sweet, more complex starches with each passing minute and hour. In reality, modern hybrids hold up much better than they used to as far as sweetness longevity goes—no longer do you have to race from field to cooking pot to lock in the sugars before they fade. But time still isn't on your side, so you want to make sure you pick fresh ears of corn at the market, then avoid waiting long before cooking.
Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerHere's what to look for:
- Moist silks: The silks are one of the best indicators of how recently an ear has been picked. Look for corn silks that are moist and soft, not brittle and dehydrated.
- Perfectly developed size: Apply the Goldilocks rule to assessing corn maturity—you want ears that are neither too small and underdeveloped nor too large and overdeveloped. There's a habit among some corn shoppers of tearing cobs apart, stripping away the husks to study the entire ear before deciding whether to put it in their bag or not. Don't do that. It not only makes a mess and ruins the corn for subsequent shoppers, but it's also unnecessary. If you want to check the status of an ear, gently pull back the husk only at the tippy top of the ear to peek at the kernels just at the tapered end. This is sufficient for sussing out whether you've got an immature ear with underdeveloped kernels or an older one that's grown chunky and tough with time. A lot of times, you can even just feel it in your hand through the husk—does the cob feel moderately substantial without being a lumpy brick or a scrawny featherweight? If the answer is yes, you're likely holding a good ear.
- Don't worry about bugs: I'm not saying you should buy ears of corn that are riddled with worms, but caterpillars will find their way into sweet ears of corn and it's really not the end of the world. If anything, it's a sign the corn is tasty—certainly the caterpillar thinks so.
Once you've completed your shopping, as mentioned above, try not to wait too long before cooking the corn. I generally try to eat through my market haul within a day or two at the absolute most; if you do have to wait, the colder temperature of the refrigerator will help preserve sugars longer.
The Scope of TestingThe question I'm trying to ask here is: What's the best way to boil an ear of corn? That's the literal question, but what I'm really after is not a specific method, but a specific result, so my testing included not only boiling but also any other method that delivers a result akin to boiling. This means I also tested microwaving, steaming, and cooking at sub-boiling temperatures. What I didn't test were all the other ways to cook corn, so this is not a guide to grilling, roasting, air frying, deep frying, sautéing, or anything else.
Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerI also didn't include sous vide in my testing, even though it arguably produces a like-boiled result. I kept it out for two reasons: First, because we already have Kenji's in-depth guide to sous vide corn, and second, because it's a much more impractical method that wastes a lot of plastic (you need to double bag the corn). If you want to cook your corn sous vide, by all means please do, but it requires more planning, time, and materials and therefore isn't the kind of everyday solution I'm after.
The Science of Cooking CornThe objective of cooking corn on the cob is twofold. We want to gelatinize the starches in the kernels, swelling them up so that the corn loses the milky starchiness it has when raw. At the same time, we want to minimize the breakdown the corn's natural pectin, which contributes to its cellular structure. That breakdown of pectin is largely responsible for the shriveled kernels of overcooked corn.
Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerThe trouble is that at the high temperatures of simmering and boiling, both starch gelatinization and pectin degradation are happening at the same time. This was precisely the challenge Cook's Illustrated had identified in their article on perfect cooked corn, and they rightly concluded that cooking the corn at a sub-boiling temperature somewhere in the zone of 170 to 180°F was the sweet spot—high enough to gelatinize the starches but low enough to avoid too much damage to the pectin. This basic fact is also why Kenji set his sous vide corn recipe to 183°F—it's just below the temperatures at which pectin breaks down.
My goals today are no different, and I knew going into this that I'd be sniffing around the same temperatures and methods that Cook's Illustrated and many others have before me. I just landed in a slightly different place once I was done.
The Best Methods for "Boiling" CornLet's jump right in. Here are all the methods I tried and my results. (Note: As with all Serious Eats tests, I standardized all possible variables, including water volume and corn quantities.)
Basic BoilingThe question is "what's the best way to boil corn" so I obviously had to try straight-up boiling. I brought a large pot of water to a rolling boil and then dropped my shucked ears in and started a timer right away (before the water had returned to a boil). The water returned to a boil about two minutes later, and I then began pulling ears of corn out every minute starting at four minutes (the shortest recommended time I saw in boiling recipes) and all the way up to ten minutes.
Just based on visual inspection alone, I could see the signs of the high heat on the corn: While subtle on the three- and four-minute samples, all the corn had visible wrinkling of the kernels, indicating the pectin was breaking down and the corn was shrivelling.
Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerThe four-minute samples were pretty good—if you served them to me with no comment, I'd happily eat them and and not think twice about it—but all the samples from five minutes up were increasingly overcooked, with a less sweet, more pasty flavor and texture.
Verdict: Boiling corn for a very short period of about three to four minutes (timed from the moment the corn is added to the boiling water) produces decently good corn, but signs of the kernels shriveling are visible. Anything longer than five minutes is not recommended. Overall, actually boiling boiled corn is not ideal.
The Cut-and-Wait: The Cook's Illustrated Preferred MethodI've seen this method with slight variation over the years, but it is based on some variant of the idea that it's better to let the corn sit off-heat than to continuously boil it. The method goes something like this: Bring a pot of water to a boil; cut off the heat; add your corn; cover and then wait for it to cook off heat for some minimum time up to some maximum time. For Cook's Illustrated, that's a minimum of 10 minutes up to a max of 30 minutes.
Their explanation for why their method works is that the corn immediately lowers the temperature of the just-boiled water to the ideal zone of around 180°F, where it then can hang out until done. This can work, but it's not foolproof and it's not flexible. That's because the Cook's Illustrated recipe specifies a water volume (four quarts), and a number of ears (six). That's a problem, though, because not all of us always want to boil exactly six ears of corn in four quarts of water.
When I ran my tests on this method, having read the Cook's Illustrated method but missing the critical six ears part, I put four ears of corn into Dutch oven filled with about four quarts of just-boiled water, and then watched as the water failed to fall anywhere even close to 180°F. After one minute, it was up at 200°F; after three minutes, it was down to 190°F; and after five minutes at was still in the high 180s. Only at the 10-minute mark, when I removed my first sample, did the water reach 180°F.
In terms of actual results, these ears were better than boiled corn, but not perfect: The 10-minute sample was good, but from 11 minutes and higher, the corn showed minor signs of shriveling. Most likely, I would have had better results had I used six ears. But this basic fact convinced me to move on. I wanted a method that worked consistently no matter the amount of corn you're going to cook, and largely irrespective of the volume of water.
Verdict: If you follow the limited parameters exactly, this can work, but why commit to a method that only works if you boil six ears of corn in four quarts of water? We can do better.
Cold Start (The Winner)If temperatures above boiling are a problem for "boiled" corn, a logical question follows: Why boil the water at all?
To find out, I dropped all my ears into a pot of cold water, then put it over high heat and brought it all up to 180°F together, which was easy to check with an instant-read thermometer. Then I covered the pot, turned off the heat, and let it stand.
Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerThis method accomplished a couple things. It avoided the need to overshoot the ideal temperature of the water by bringing it to a boil, saving time and energy, and eliminated the imprecise method of using the cold or room-temp corn to drop a too-hot pot back down to the ideal zone. In my cold-start method, everything in the pot went up to 180°F together, and then it all stayed in that zone until I started pulling samples at 10 minutes and continuing every minute up to 25.
This corn was superior. All the samples were perfectly plump and tender, with a sweet, juicy pop. None of them showed signs of puckering except for the 25 minute sample, which had very, very minor signs of it (at the 25-minute mark, the water was down to 155°F, at which point the corn was no longer cooking much at all and instead just being kept warm in an aqueous environment.
Verdict: This method was the best, producing corn that was perfectly cooked but still bursting with off-the-stalk vitality. Even better, since it's based on more precise temperature control, it works across a wide batch sizes and pot sizes: As long as you get your corn and water up to 180°F and then let it sit in that water for at least 10 minutes, it'll be perfect. This method offers excellent flexibility on time, since there's a much larger window for great results; I maybe wouldn't let my corn hang out in the water for more than about 25 or 30 minutes, though it'd probably still be pretty good even after that.
Steaming (Another Winner)Another good question is: Why not skip the whole submerging-corn-in-water-thing and steam it instead? To find out, I brought a pot to full steam, added the corn on a steaming rack, and then let it steam, pulling my first sample at three minutes and then every minute after that up to seven minutes.
Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerI was surprised by how well this corn turned out. Even though steam is the temperature of boiling water (212°F at sea level) and is at an elevated energy level, it's less dense than water, which leads to very even but more gentle cooking. In effect, this means that even though steam is hotter than the ideal temperature for boiling corn, it produces successful results, especially on the shorter end of the time spectrum at three to four minutes (longer-cooked samples were also good but starting to lose some vibrancy).
Verdict: This is a good and efficient option, and the small amount of water required speeds the cooking time up compared to traditional boiling—it's much quicker for an inch of water to reach the boiling point than to heat a whole pot. I still like the cold start more for its large margin of error on the cooking time, and for its overall precision within the ideal cooking temp zone, but steaming is a valid alternative.
Microwaving (Yet One More Winner)Last thought—why use water at all aside from the natural water of the corn? That's where the microwave comes in. Simply pop the corn, still in the husk, in a microwave and run it on high power for a few minutes. Exactly how long depends on how many ears of corn you're cooking and the power of your microwave, but I find that two to three minutes is good for a single ear, while five to six minutes can be good for about four ears at once.
Some people like to add a step in which you cut off the bottom of the corn just above the stem so that you can more easily slip the ear out of the husk once it's cooked, supposedly free of almost all its silks. I haven't had great luck with this little trick, but maybe that's just me. Perhaps with a little more practice I can nail the dismount.
Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerYou're also likely to see this method recommended two ways: One requires microwaving the corn in its husk, the other has you shuck the corn first, then wrap the ears in damp paper towels for the microwaving part. Let me save you the time right now: The shuck-first method is to be avoided. Not only does it needlessly waste paper towels, but it does away with the perfect natural steam jacket for each ear—its own husk—in favor of a less effective artificial one.
For the record, this is the method I use at home the most: It's easy, it's fast, and it works even for individual ears of corn, which I scarf down while standing over my kitchen sink in the middle of the hottest days of summer.
Verdict: This is another great, low-effort, high-efficiency method for quickly cooking smaller amounts of corn. It's essential to microwave the corn in its husk, which is the better, more natural, less wasteful way to trap steam around each ear. This method will possibly require some tinkering at home with your own microwave and corn, but once you figure out your preferred cooking times, you'll be very happy with the results.
Salt and FlavoringsBefore wrapping up my testing, I had one small remaining question, which had to do with seasoning the cooking water for the methods that involve submerging the corn. Really, the big question was whether it made sense to add salt or not, but I also had a (somewhat strange) thought that maybe the husks could add a deeper flavor if tossed into the pot with their ears (I think maybe I was riffing on the fact that corn grilled in its husk is so good and flavorful and wanted to see if that translated to other cooking methods, but I admit it was a stretch). While the water could also be flavored with countless other things like herbs, I didn't go down that testing road; it felt too finicky and troublesome for the humble boiled ear of corn.
To look once more at that Cook's Illustrated corn article—I'm not trying to pick on them, they just have one of the most in-depth and science-based discussions of corn boiling out there, so it's hard not to reference them here—they claim that salting the corn cooking water makes no difference. In their tests, they found that the salt was unable to penetrate the kernels unless they ears were allowed to sit in the water for an excessive amount of time. The explanation they gave was that the salt can only really work its way into the kernels by being absorbed through the cob first, which is a slow process. Their conclusion: Don't bother salting the water, just season the corn afterwards when you serve it.
Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerTo check on this, I made a 2% salt solution and cooked my corn in that following the cold-start method I'd already identified as my favorite. After cooking, I tasted a piece of the corn and found it nicely seasoned. Perhaps, I thought, the salt is just on the surface and if I rinse the cobs I won't taste it any more—that'd align with the Cook's Illustrated finding. So I ran my corn under running fresh water for about ten seconds, then tasted it again. And it was still very clearly seasoned with salt!
What's this about? I suspect Cook's Illustrated is more or less right about salt not really getting into the kernels quickly or easily, but even if they are right, my testing indicates that even as a surface treatment, salt is able to cling to the corn and burrow down into the the tight spaces between the kernels such that even washing won't fully remove it. Does that mean salting the water is invalid just because it's a surface treatment? Not in my book! It seems like a good way to get even seasoning all over the corn without overly salted spots or bits of undissolved salt sprinkled on it.
At the same time, though, I don't think salting the water is essential. Adding salt to the cooking water is more wasteful of salt, because the only way to get it salty enough requires adding enough to season not just the corn but all of the water—just like when you cook pasta. Most of that salt ends up going down the drain with the water when you dump the pot out.
I should also note that I saw no ill effects of salting the cooking water. I say this because we already know that brining corn is a really bad idea. But it seems that the cooking time for the ears of corn is short enough not to cause the corn to dry out.
As for cooking the corn with the husks in the water, it was a dumb idea, let's forget I even tried it.
Verdict: Salt may just be a surface treatment that doesn't penetrate into the kernels of corn quickly enough, but it's still a surface treatment that works. Salt your cooking water if you want to (make sure the water tastes nicely seasoned, just like pasta), or don't and save the salt for serving time. Works either way.
Cold-Start "Boiled" Corn on the CobShuck the corn. In a large Dutch oven or pot, cover the ears with cold water. Set over high heat and bring to 180°F (82°C). Immediately cover and turn off the heat. Let stand for at least 10 and up to 25 minutes. Serve salted and buttered (or however you prefer).
Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerSteamed Corn on the CobSet up a steamer large enough to hold the corn without the corn touching the water; cover and bring to full steam over high heat. Meanwhile, shuck the corn.
Add corn to steamer, cover, and cook until corn is plump and tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat and serve corn salted and buttered (or however you prefer).
Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerMicrowaved Corn on the CobDo not shuck the corn; if desired, cut off the bottom of each cob through the husk to expose the cob itself, just above where the stalk end meets the cob (this can make shucking after cooking easier).
Microwave the corn on high power until just tender: 2 to 3 minutes for 1 ear; 3 to 4 minutes for 2 or 3 ears; 5 or 6 minutes for 4 ears (exact time will depend on microwave power and corn size). Let cool slightly, then shuck; if you removed the bottom of each cob, you should be able to shake the ear out so that it comes cleanly free of the husk and silks.
Vy TranFor many people, the first things that come to mind when they think of Vietnamese food are hot bowls of phở and crusty bánh mi. But, for me, the meal that best represents Vietnamese cuisine is the rice roll platter. Often served as a beautiful spread, the rice roll platter can accommodate all our nuanced regional differences, from the North’s more elegant fare and the center of the country’s punchy spices to the South’s sweet tooth, as well as our national commonalities, like our love for rice and our liberal use of raw herbs and vegetables.
Although a rice roll platter tends to require a long list of ingredients, it’s meant to be a simple preparation that’s easily and immediately customizable; think of it as a deconstructed gỏi cuốn, or fresh spring roll, where you can pick and choose whatever you want to include in each roll as you eat. Some combinations are so popular that they’ve become the iconic dish for a particular place, like the cá lóc cuốn bánh tráng (rice paper rolls with grilled snakehead fish) of the South’s Mekong Delta, and the bánh tráng thịt luộc (rice paper rolls with poached pork) of Da Nang, the major metropolitan center of Central Vietnam. Up North in Ha Noi, nem thính cuốn (rice paper rolls with pig’s ears in toasted rice powder) is also a must-try.
Helen Le, the Da Nang-born creator of the YouTube channel Helen’s Recipes and author of two cookbooks, believes rice paper rolls embody the ideal balance of flavor and nutrition in Vietnamese cuisine. “You have carbs from the rice paper and vermicelli,” she says, “and the protein can be fish, meat, or tofu. Then there are herbs and vegetables. Finally, a bold dipping sauce will bring everything together.”
Each of the ingredients included in a rice roll platter is carefully chosen, so I asked Le to walk me through how she picks and prepares each component, and I also asked Lauren Lopez and Vicky Tong, the sisters and recipe developers behind the blog Viet Home Cooking, and Jimmy Ly, chef and owner of Madame Vo BBQ in New York, to weigh in as well.
The Rice PaperVy TranMaking rice paper is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process. It involves grinding rice and turning it into a batter, steaming the batter on muslin cloth stretched over a pot of boiling water to form rice sheets, cutting those sheets into rounds, and then drying those rounds on bamboo screens, which imprint the rice paper with the wavy pattern of the bamboo weave. There are some villages in Vietnam that specialize in producing rice paper, and some families have been in business for over 200 years. Among the most famous is Trảng Bàng, a town in the Southwestern province of Tây Ninh, known for its soft, dewy rice paper. And while the most common form of rice paper is sold plain, there are variations made from coconut milk and sweet potatoes, and some are peppered with sesame seeds, dried bananas, or salted shrimp, among other things.
Even though grocery stores in the US tend to only carry plain rice paper, shopping for the translucent wrappers can still be confusing. Ly advises against the ones made from 100% tapioca flour since they can be trickier to use as wraps. “Instead, look for wrappers made with rice flour or a combination of rice flour and tapioca flour,” he says. “As a quality check, rice paper should also be gluten-free. Go for Three Ladies (Ba Cô Gái) or any labels with the red rose.”
Lopez and Tong also prefer wrappers with added tapioca flour. “They provide a chewier texture and are more pliable,” the duo shares. “Try brands with the term ‘banh trang deo’ on the package.”
Additionally, Le stresses the importance of treating rice paper properly. She cautions against dunking the sheets into water until they’re soggy, the way Gordon Ramsay does in a widely circulated video. Instead, she says, “Use your damp hand to rub its surface and wait for 15 to 20 seconds. It’ll take some time for the sheet to absorb the water.”
The Herbs and VegetablesOn a rice paper platter, raw herbs and vegetables—never cooked—occupy the most space. Leafy greens such as Bibb lettuce and mustard greens work well as a crisp and sturdy base, while vegetables like carrot, daikon, and cucumber add crunch. Other less common textural accoutrements include banana blossoms and lotus stems.
Fruits like pineapple, green banana, and star fruit can also be included, along with a wide variety of herbs, some of the most popular of which are mint, cilantro, basil, perilla, and fish mint (which, despite its name, is not a type of mint, but heart-shaped leaves that smell slightly fishy and have a tangy aftertaste.)
As you put together your own selection of vegetables and herbs for a rice roll platter, you want to have a combination of floral, earthy, bitter, sour, and herbaceous notes, which will help complement the meaty element of the meal and offer contrast to the salty dipping sauce.
The Starch: Rice Vermicelli Vy TranIn Vietnam, bún, or rice vermicelli is widely available and can be used immediately; there’s no need to boil it in water. It has a shorter shelf life than its dried counterparts in the US, which are often marketed as “rice sticks.” However, the English translations can be pretty confusing, as I have bought rice sticks and rice vermicelli that were not bun at all. Instead, look for the Vietnamese term “bún tươi” (which literally translates to “fresh noodle,” although it’s not actually fresh) on the package—you can never go wrong with that. To use them, cook the noodles in boiling water for five minutes or until they're no longer translucent and rinse them under cold water to prevent clumping.
The ProteinThere are restaurants that serve rice paper rolls with poached pork throughout Vietnam, but the most famous and common rendition is from Da Nang. It features thinly sliced lean ham with both the fat and the skin intact. The cooking technique involves rolling a slab of the meat into a log and securing it with butcher’s string before poaching.
Vy TranFor those who prefer grilled meat, a good option is nem lụi, a specialty from the city of Huế that consists of fatty pork pounded into a thick paste, then molded on a lemongrass stalk and cooked over charcoal. You can also find a variation of this meat-on-a-stick in Nha Trang, where pig’s skin is added to the mix for some texture. Along the streets of Ho Chi Minh City, vendors lure customers with the smoke from their griller, where parcels of ground beef wrapped in wild betel leaves line up.
In Central coastal provinces, steamed mackerel scad is a regular item included in rice roll platters. The fish is lightly seasoned before being steamed with aromatics such as ginger, onion, and scallion. Travelling southward to the Mekong Delta, where life is blessed with plenty of freshwater fish, snakeheads are a popular choice for both steaming and grilling.
The Dipping Sauce Vy TranLe and Ly both agree that the dipping sauce can make or break a rice paper roll platter, since the proteins are seasoned minimally and the other components are uncooked.
For Le, mắm nêm (fermented fish sauce) is the perfect accompaniment to Da Nang’s rice paper roll platter. Like fish sauce, mắm nêm is made from anchovies, but while the former is strained to produce a clear liquid, the latter isn’t, and the final product has a gritty consistency. To tame its funk and briny taste, mắm nêm is mixed with sugar, pineapple chunks, and aromatics like garlic and lemongrass.
The proteins in a rice paper roll can vary from pork and beef to seafood like fish and shrimp (I’ve yet to come across chicken). They can be boiled, steamed, grilled, or poached and are cooked with little-to-no seasoning so that the flavor of each component in the platter can shine through.
Those who aren’t a fan of the overtly funky flavor of mam nem can opt for nước chấm, the more common fish sauce-based dipping sauce. Those in Southern Vietnam like their nước chấm sweet and bold, mixing in sugar and chiles, whereas Northerners prefer a milder flavor, blending their fish sauce with vinegar or lime juice, water, and relatively less sugar.
To decide on which sauce to use, Lopez looks at what goes inside the rolls. “I like to have nước chấm with marinated-meat rolls and a thicker hoisin peanut sauce with lighter gỏi cuốn,” she says. Her hoisin peanut sauce is made from hoisin sauce, peanut butter, and Coco Rico coconut soda.
Meanwhile, grilled pork in Huế or Nha Trang comes with a more elaborate meat sauce, which consists of ground pork or liver (or a combination of both) cooked down and thickened with glutinous rice flour. Annatto seed oil is added for an orange tint.
Putting It All TogetherVy TranOnce you’ve gathered all the components and you’re ready to eat, arrange the spread on your dining table, starting with a generous section for the herbs and vegetables, followed by separate serving dishes for your protein, rice vermicelli, and rice paper. You can have a bowl for the water to dampen the rice paper, but I find a spray bottle can do the trick with less mess. Don’t forget a plate and a small sauce bowl for each guest.
Vy TranTo assemble a roll, lay the moistened rice paper flat and place the components in its bottom third, leaving some space on both sides of the wrappers. There’s no hard-and-fast rule for what goes in first or last, but I like to add vegetables, then rice vermicelli, and then the protein. I distribute them evenly on the rice paper sheet, so I can get a bit of everything in each bite. To close it up, fold the space on the sides in, pull the bottom of the wrapper up over the filling and start rolling it away from you, using your fingers to tighten the roll as you go. And feel free to enjoy one right after you assemble.
Vy TranWhile rice paper roll platters started out as a casual meal to prepare at home, they now appear regularly on menus, from push carts on Vietnam’s street corners to upscale restaurants in the US, like Madame Vo in New York City. While the ingredients vary, there remains a deep sense of intimacy involved in the dish—whether at home or in restaurants, the process of tearing crisp lettuce leaves and rolling rice paper sheets connects people with the bounty that Vietnam has to offer.
Serious Eats / Reese HerringtonBreville has so! many! espresso machines. We even tested all of them to find out which ones were worth their salt. The Barista Express stood out as a beginner-friendly machine: It had a built-in grinder, precise temperature control, and an automatic steam wand. Really, it came with everything you need to make a great cappuccino at home (including a tamper and frothing pitcher!)—except for the beans, of course. Right now, for Amazon Prime Day, it’s a rare $200 off.
Breville Barista Express Espresso MachineAmazonWhy It Won Our ReviewDuring our tests of Breville’s many espresso machines, the Breville Barista Express proved itself to be a great entry-level option. While its features aren’t as fancy as some of Breville’s other models (for example, it doesn’t have a touchscreen or dual boiler), the Barista Express is straightforward, reliable, and more affordable.
Its clearly labeled buttons make it easy to operate and the built-in grinder has 16 settings. You can also adjust how much coffee is dosed into the filter basket. Thanks to its precise temperature control, the Barista Express produces great-tasting espresso, and its steam wand is powerful enough to make silky smooth microfoam. This Amazon Prime Day, you can get the Barista Express for $200 off.
Key Specs Dimensions: 12.5 x 13.8 x 16 inches * Weight: 23 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 54 millimeters * Capacity: 2 liters * Grind settings: 16 * Comes with: Dosing funnel attachment, single and dual wall (1- and 2-cup) filter baskets, the Razor precision dose trimming tool, stainless steel milk jug, cleaning kit, water filter * Care instructions: Backflush with coffee detergent according to the manufacturer's instructions * Warranty:* 1-year limited product warranty
FAQsWhat’s the difference between all the Breville espresso machines?
We tested all of the Breville espresso machines and compiled our findings in this guide.
What other Amazon Prime Day deals are available?
We’ve gathered the best Amazon Prime Day deals on kitchen equipment here.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine * We’ve rigorously tested dozens of espresso machines, from beginner-friendly models to commercial-level machines. * An is a coffee enthusiast and enjoys making her own espresso drinks at home daily.
Serious Eats / Robby Lozano. Food Stylist: Julia Levy, Prop Stylist: Tucker VinesDespite—or maybe because of—the fact that I've worked in food media for more than 20 years, I spend way more time on Cat Insta than on food social media. So, I completely missed honey-butter toast's ramp up to virality until Serious Eats' social media editor, Kelli Solomon, flagged it in one of our work Slack channels. The current iteration of the toast making the rounds—a thick, square slice of bread that's slathered with a honey-butter mixture and then baked until it develops a shatteringly crisp sweet crust—can be traced back to a version served at London's Arôme Bakery.
While the current trend might have been started by Arôme, both Kelli and culinary editor Genevieve Yam pointed out that the buzzy toast was essentially a loose riff on brick toast. "You can find brick toast in cafés in Japan, South Korea, China, Taiwan, and Hong Kong," Genevieve says. "I'm not entirely sure where brick toast comes from, but I grew up eating it in cafés in Hong Kong. Similar to Hong Kong–style French toast it almost always came with a square pat of butter and a generous drizzle of condensed milk. If my friends and I were at the mall after school, that's the kind of snack we would look for."
We all agreed that the crackly slabs of toasts making the rounds online looked pretty dreamy—unlike many social media food darlings (see jalapeño dust and deboned-in-the-bag chicken)—so we set about developing our own riff with the help of our test kitchen colleague recipe Julia Levy. Through rounds of testing and tasting, Julia arrived at this crisp on the outside, soft on the inside toast with beautifully floral honey, cinnamon, and optional cardamom, topped with lightly sweetened yogurt and as much fresh fruit as you'd like. Read on for tips on making the toast and to get Julia's full recipe.
Serious Eats / Robby Lozano. Food Stylist: Julia Levy, Prop Stylist: Tucker Vines5 Tips for Making Honey-Butter Toast1. Use thick slices of bread. To achieve the signature look and fluffy inside/crispy outside texture of honey-butter toast we recommend starting with a loaf of milk bread, brioche, or challah, or soft white bread and slicing it by hand into 2-inch thick slices. If you want the geometrical look of classic brick toast and your bread does not have square edges, feel free to trim the crusts. If choosing brioche or challah, we recommend looking for a non-braided loaf, which will be easier to slice into even pieces. 2. Make sure the layer of honey-butter is nice and thin. If it is too thick, your bread won’t crisp up properly, and the crackling exterior is key here. 3. Cook it in the oven. When we set out to test methods of cooking the toast, we thought it might be better cooked on the stovetop rather than in the oven, with the assumption that direct contact with a hot pan would lead to more even, more crisp results. But after multiple tests, we were convinced that the oven was the much better option. While it takes longer than the stovetop, the oven created a more beautiful, more even golden-brown color and a wonderfully crisp crust on the toast. Using the oven also reduces the risk of burning both the sugar and your fingers. If you don't feel like heating a large oven just for this, a quality toaster oven is a great option. 4. Let the sugar set before digging in. While you don't want to serve the honey-butter toast cold, giving it a few minutes to cool down after coming out of the oven is enoughfor the sugars, which are still soft when very hot, to set into a crackly glaze. After the rest time, the toast will still be slightly warm, but not hot. 5. Add a slightly tart topping to keep the sweetness in check. While you could certainly top this toast with pastry cream, chantilly cream, or whipped cream—and any of them would be delicious—we like the way slightly tart Greek-style yogurt complements the sweet toast. And rather than starting with sweetened yogurt, which can be cloying, we lightly sweeten and flavor plain yogurt with honey and vanilla bean paste. Another great option: crème fraîche in place of the yogurt.
Preheat oven to 325°F. Line a small rimmed baking sheet with parchment. In a small bowl, stir together butter, brown sugar, 1 1/2 teaspoons of the honey, salt, cinnamon, and cardamom (if using) until smooth.
Serious Eats / Robby Lozano If desired, trim crusts from bread to yield a perfectly square slice. Spread a thin layer of butter mixture over top, bottom, and sides of each bread slice. Place on prepared baking sheet.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoBake until very lightly golden-brown, 12 to 16 minutes. Flip slices and continue to bake until evenly golden, 5 to 7 minutes longer.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoRemove from oven and cool on baking sheet for 5 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and cool until crispy, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoWhile toast cools, whisk together yogurt and vanilla bean paste until smooth. Stir in remaining 1 teaspoon honey, maintaining a swirl by not completely stirring it in.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoPlace crisped toast on a plate; dollop with yogurt, then spoon berries on top. Drizzle with more honey, if desired. Serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Robby Lozano. Food Stylist: Julia Levy, Prop Stylist: Tucker VinesSpecial EquipmentSmall rimmed baking sheet, parchment
Make Ahead and StorageThe butter mixture can be made up to 3 days ahead and stored at room temperature in an airtight container or refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. Let it come to room temperature before use for easier spreadability.
Bread can be slathered with the butter mixture and then refrigerated overnight for easier baking in the morning.
Toast is best the day it is baked.
Serious Eats / Tim ChinI’m a sucker for Japanese-American classics like teriyaki chicken, and for me, the best part of that dish isn’t the chicken itself, but the smoky, chargrilled vegetables that often accompany it. But when you bring the teriyaki treatment to a whole head of cauliflower, it captures the spirit and what I love most about the original: Deep umami notes, charcoal, caramelized flavors, sweetness, salt, substance. In fact, this is probably the meatiest version of cauliflower I could dream up—something main-course worthy.
Burnished, lightly charred domed cauliflower heads slathered in a savory teriyaki sauce has entrée energy and show stopping appeal, but properly grilling whole heads of brassicas presents us with two common pitfalls: They’re often unevenly cooked (too crunchy on the inside while blackened and bitter on the outside) and under seasoned throughout. Here’s how to solve these two main problems.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso3 Tips for Grilling Whole Cauliflower Heads1. Brine for even seasoning. One way to guarantee even seasoning—even to the woody core—is to employ a brine. When cauliflower is submerged in a saline solution over the course of a few hours, the brassica takes on more and more seasoning. In previous testing on how and why you should brine your vegetables, I found the difference in flavor between surface seasoning and brining for cooked cruciferous vegetables is stark. Here, a soak in a 4 to 5% salt brine for about three hours produces optimal results, but you can let the cauliflower sit for up to six hours to work with your cooking schedule.
2. Start low and slow over a two-zone grill. In my first tests, after brining I simply threw the heads on the hottest side of the grill, but this resulted in a burnt exterior with a crunchy, undercooked center. It was clear that I needed to speed up the cooking of the cauliflower’s fibrous core before the exterior florets overcooked. I tried various methods for par-cooking the cauliflower before finishing it on the grill—boiling, microwaving, even baking to ensure the cauliflower heads were cooked through prior to a final blast of heat from the grill. Boiling and microwaving resulted in a sweet interior, but since the heads were so saturated with moisture, the rate of browning was less in the final stage of cooking on the grill; the texture was too soft, the cauliflower lacked depth of flavor, and it also didn’t char as well on the grill.
Baking was a better direction, since the dry cooking environment drew moisture from the exterior, ensuring that the heads charred well on the grill. But similar to my tests with boiling and microwaving, even after grilling, the baked cauliflower lacked the smoky, grilled aroma and flavor I wanted.
In the end, I opted to cook the cauliflower on the grill for the entire time, and treated it similar to a big barbecued chunk of meat, such as brisket or pork butt. Using a two-zone indirect heat grill set-up as described in our guide to grilling, I cooked the heads low and slow over the cooler side of the grill so there was no direct heat underneath them, which kept the cauliflower from charring too early and turning bitter. Over 40 to 50 minutes, the interior cooked to a perfect crisp-tender texture, and took on plenty of the smoky, grilled flavor I was looking for.
3. Create layers of flavor. One of the hallmarks of teriyaki is the characteristic smoky flavor that comes when the teriyaki sauce (and fat, if you’re grilling meat) hits the coals and caramelizes, and the resulting cloud of volatile compounds floats back up to the food. That cascade of flavors from the reaction of burnt sugars and other sulfur-containing amino acids such as cysteine amplifies meaty flavor, and it’s a big reason why teriyaki is special. To mimic that, I brush the glaze on in three stages—once after the first 20 minutes of cooking and twice toward the end of cooking when the crown of the cauliflower head gets a final blast of direct heat on the grill. This way, the cauliflower reaps the benefits from the slower Maillard reaction and caramelization happening during the longer initial cooking process over the indirect heat, but also develops the more aggressive, charred flavors in the final hotter grilling stage on the hot side of the grill. The result is burnished, smoky cauliflower that slices easily into thick wedges for serving. All it needs is a squeeze of lemon, and maybe a bowl of rice to scarf it all down.
Remove leaves from bottom of each cauliflower head. Using a sharp knife, slice stem off of each head so that cauliflower sits evenly on flat surface. Do not cut out the core.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoIn a large container, such an 8-quart Cambro or large stock pot, whisk water and salt until dissolved (see notes). Place cauliflower in saltwater brine, core side up, making sure that cauliflower is submerged. Cover and let sit at room temperature for at least 3 hours and up to 6 hours.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoMake the teriyaki sauce: A few minutes before you want to cook the cauliflower, in a medium saucepan, whisk shoyu, sake, mirin, sugar, and powdered dashi until combined. Bring mixture to boil, then cook over medium heat, swirling pan occasionally, until temperature reaches 225°F (107℃) and sauce thickens and is reduced to a scant 1 cup, 12 to 16 minutes. Off heat, stir in rendered fat or butter and sesame oil. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFor a Charcoal Grill: Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFor a Gas Grill: Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on, and switch other burners off.
Remove cauliflower from brine, letting excess liquid drain back into container. Place both cauliflower heads, stem side down onto cooler side of grill, approximately 2 inches from edge of hot coals or primary burner. Cover and cook for 20 minutes.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoUncover grill, and using a heatproof brush, brush one layer of reserved sauce over cauliflower heads. Cover and continue cooking until thermometer registers 175°F at the thickest part of the core, and cauliflower is tan, but not well browned yet, rotating cauliflower occasionally, 20 to 30 minutes longer.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoUncover grill and brush cauliflower with a second layer of sauce. Using tongs, flip cauliflower and place floret-side down directly over the hottest part of grill (for a charcoal grill, directly over the coals, for a gas grill, over the primary burner). Cover and cook until lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Uncover grill, flip cauliflower heads stem side down, and brush florets all over with a final layer of sauce. Flip cauliflower and place floret side down, cover, and cook until well browned and lightly charred, 3 to 5 minutes longer.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoTransfer cauliflower to a plate. Sprinkle with togarashi. Serve with lemon wedges and remaining sauce.
Special Equipment8-quart plastic container (such as a Cambro) or large stock pot for brining, charcoal or gas grill, chimney starter (if using a charcoal grill), thermometer, heat safe brush, grill tongs
NotesKoikuchi shoyu is a general, all-purpose shoyu with a balance of salinity, umami, and richness. For a richer, slightly darker sauce, use tamari (it’s also gluten free). Saishikomi shoyu is the darkest, richest, most umami option, and produces teriyaki sauce with the greatest depth of flavor.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe cooked cauliflower is best eaten right away, but it can be safely covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf you crack open any fridge or pantry, chances are you'll find at least one or two—or in my case, six or seven—jars of pickles. When all else fails, pickles will save the day (or dish). Sandwich tastes bland? Add a few pickles. Need to zhush up a lackluster sauce or dressing? Drizzle in some pickle juice. Want to lighten up a meat-heavy meal? Dish up some pickled vegetables.
Every culture has some kind of pickling heritage. In Korea, pickling and fermentation are at the heart of their cuisine, with kimchi at the very top of the pickled vegetable hierarchy. In Turkey, eating pickles and drinking pickle juice is part of a daily ritual. When it comes to some of our favorite dishes, it's inconceivable to serve them without their pickle companion—pupusas and curtido, bánh mì and đồ chua, or hot dogs and sauerkraut. So, we've rounded up some of our favorite pickling recipes to help bring brightness and balance to your table. Some rely on lactic acid fermentation, while others are a quick pickle. Whichever you choose, you'll want to keep a few jars on hand—thank us later!
Milwaukee Dill Refrigerator PicklesSerious Eats / Vicky WasikWhen I think of a classic dill pickle, this is what comes to mind—spears of cold, crisp, vinegary, briney cucumber standing tall in a glass jar. These Milwaukee-style refrigerator pickles are deeply layered with flavors from a well-rounded spice blend, onion, garlic, and, of course, lots of fresh dill. Make sure to trim the flower ends of the cucumber in order to remove the enzyme that makes them go soft.
Baechu Kimchi (Napa Cabbage Kimchi)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikPickling and fermenting vegetables is central to Korean cuisine, and Napa cabbage kimchi reigns supreme over all fermented pickles—no meal is complete without it. Rather than the traditional method of salting the cabbage leaves by hand, our recipe utilizes a brine to guarantee a more even salt distribution. A thick rice slurry well-seasoned with gochugaru perfectly coats each layer of cabbage leaves and provides sugar for fermentation.
Tourshi (Armenian Pickled Vegetables)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikArmenian families stock up on tourshi the way Koreans put away kimchi—it's ubiquitous on every table. You can use whatever edible-when-raw vegetable you'd like or have on hand. Once they're packed into jars, you simply pour a hot, lightly spiced vinegar brine over them, which gently par-cooks and tenderizes the vegetables without compromising their texture. Then, all you have to do is seal the jars and let them sit out at room temperature for five days.
Karışık Sebze Turşusu (Turkish Mixed Vegetable Pickles)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezYou've heard of the saying "An apple a day keeps the doctor away," right? Well in Turkey, make that a pickle (or six) a day. Turkey's long-standing pickling heritage and copious consumption of pickles have as much to do with their flavor as it does their healing properties—cutting through fatty meals and aiding in digestion. Here, a medley of crunchy vegetables is submerged in a salty brine with just a touch of vinegar, creating the right conditions for lactic acid fermentation.
Pickled Watermelon RindSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezPickled watermelon rind is a Southern American tradition that is the epitome of upcyling. Born out of frugality, it makes the most of something that would otherwise be tossed out. Watermelon is trimmed clean of red flesh and tough outer green skin, leaving only the crispy, tender white rind, which is then simmered in an intensely sweet-tart brine. Serve it alongside any Southern-inspired dish, chop it up for relish, or add it to a charcuterie board—it'll keep for about a month in the fridge.
Homemade SauerkrautSerious Eats / Vicky WasikTo a lot of people, a hot dog is naked without sauerkraut, though most of us never think beyond popping open a jar or bag of the stuff from the market. But Daniel's recipe just might convince you to make a batch at home. The process is surprisingly easy and fun, requiring only three ingredients. We do recommend a digital scale and either a 5-liter fermentation crock with stone weights or half-gallon glass jars with Easy Fermenter lids.
Đồ Chua (Vietnamese Pickled Daikon and Carrots for Banh Mì)Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineI'd argue that what makes an ideal bánh mì, aside from the proper bread, is the đồ chua, or pickled daikon and carrot. You can layer on whatever combination of meats and herbs you want, but the sweet, tangy, and crisp julienned pickled vegetables are a must. This recipe is highly adaptable—you can cut the carrot and daikon thicker or thinner, though we recommend you cut them into sticks of about 1/8- to 1/4-inch thick and 3 inches long, which makes them perfect for bánh mì, cơm tấm, and salads.
Jangajji (Korean Soy Sauce-Pickled Vegetables and Chiles)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikBeyond kimchi, there are a host of other styles within the Korean pickling universe. Jangajj is one of the quickest methods—simply pour a hot soy sauce-based brine over your choice of seasonal vegetable and let it pickle for at least 24 hours. Serve the crunchy, salty, sweet, and spicy pickles as a banchan (or side dish) or a "drinking snack."
Danmuji (Korean Pickled Daikon Radish)Serious Eats / Emily and Matt CliftonStep inside a Korean or Asian market and you're bound to come across vibrantly colored packages of danmuji or pickled daikon in the refrigerated section. It's another banchan staple that's very quick and easy to make at home. Rice vinegar, sugar, garlic, turmeric, bay leaves, and black peppercorns form the basis of the brine, which pickles the radish in 1 to 2 hours at room temperature.
Yucatán-Style Pickled Red Onions in Sour-Orange JuiceSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltSweet, salty, and tangy pickled onions are just the perfect accompaniment to cut through the fatty richness of braised, slow-roasted, or smoked meats in tacos, burritos, fajitas, and sandwiches. We par-cook the onions so we can maintain the fresh, bright flavor of raw citrus juice. If you can't find Seville or sour oranges, a combination of grapefruit, lime, and orange juices will replicate similar floral, bitter notes.
Quick Curtido (Salvadoran Cabbage Slaw)Serious Eats / Lauren RothmanWhile you could say "slaw" is a type of salad, curtido is more of a pickle that only gets better with age. Like other kinds of quick pickles, a hot vinegar brine is poured over a mixture of cabbage, onions, and carrots to infuse it with a hit of acidity, then immediately cooled down in the fridge to retain its crisp, crunchy texture. Layer it into gorditas, serve it with beef barbacoa, or spoon on top of pupusas—the way I had it for the first time at a Salvadorian restaurant.
Pickled Mustard SeedsSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltWant to zhuzh up deviled eggs, soups, sandwiches, or roast meats? Add a dollop of pickled mustard seeds. I love how pickling plumps the seeds so they have a caviar-like texture that bursts in your mouth. These tiny pops of acidity and play of textures beautifully complement the unctuousness of dishes like roasted bone marrow.
Quick-Pickled Rhubarb With Lemongrass and GingerSerious Eats / Vicky WasikI always do a little happy dance whenever I see the first bright red stalks of rhubarb at the produce market. I can't resist buying up as much as I can and then trying to figure out as many ways as I can to use it all up. Quick pickling rhubarb is a great way to preserve a bit of spring. I love how each piece of rhubarb is a pink jewel bursting with sweet, tangy flavor.
Pickled GrapesSerious Eats / Emily DrydenI initially came across Sohla's cheeky play on "ants on a log" when I was searching for grape recipes. While the pickled grapes are a component in her celery soup, I was struck by what a cool idea it was to pickle peeled grapes in sherry vinegar. Beyond the soup, you can serve them with any rich, savory dish when you want a pop of sweetness and tang.
Serious Eats / Francesca FasciglioneIt’s Amazon Prime Day, and, for the uninitiated, that means yesterday and today (July 16 and 17) Amazon has slashed prices on millions of items, including all things kitchen. Our editors sorted through dozens of pages of sales to bring you the best Prime Day kitchen deals.
We take a lot of pride in how we review kitchen products. That is, we spend day after day testing gear side-by-side, in the exact same conditions to bring you our recommendations. We’ve spent a month testing gas grills. We’ve tested (nearly) all of the Vitamix blenders. And we’ve brewed hundreds of shots to land on the best espresso machines. This is all to say: We really know our kitchen gear…and we’re great at spotting deals on the best tools and gadgets.
Below, we rounded up our favorite Amazon Prime Day deals, exclusively featuring products we've tested and recommended or extensively used at home. Just a reminder: It is the last day to shop.
A Great Entry-Level Espresso Machine (with a Built-In Grinder!): Breville Barista Express Espresso MachineAmazonWe describe this coffee maker best here: "The Barista Express is Breville’s most popular espresso machine, and it’s easy to see why. It’s a simple, straightforward model with a built-in grinder." In general, we're huge fans of Breville's espresso machines: They make it very easy to make great coffee at home and streamline the trickier parts of the espresso process. Right now, you can snag this one for $200 off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonThe Absolute Best Blender: Vitamix 5200 Professional-Grade BlenderAmazonWe’ve recommended this Vitamix blender since Kenji first reviewed it in 2014. Its tapered jar sucks ingredients into its blades, creating a vortex that produces super-smooth sauces, purees, and smoothies. Its control panel has just a couple of switches and a dial. It’s everything you need and nothing you don’t—and it’s 27% off. Vitamix blenders don’t go on super-sale often, so we don’t recommend skipping out on this deal if you’re even remotely interested.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyThe Best Instant Pot: Instant Pot ProAmazonThis Instant Pot has been our favorite for a few years. It has a handy control knob, a steam release switch (no prodding a valve with the end of a wooden spoon!), and handles on its cooking pot that stay cool and keep the pot from swirling around when you stir. For something cheaper, our budget Instant Pot pick is also on sale for Prime Day.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThe Best Instant-Read Thermometer: ThermoWorks Thermapen ONEKing Arthur BakingThis is simply the best instant-read thermometer there is. It has a lightning-fast response time and an automatic backlight and a blisteringly fast response time (we're talking one to two seconds). The deal's not on Amazon, but it's still worth mentioning.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinThe Best Espresso Machine for Beginners: Breville Barista Express ImpressAmazonWe know we mentioned another Breville espresso machine on sale above, but this one also is worth shouting out: We fell in love with the Breville Barista Express Impress when we first tested it. It's our best espresso machine for beginners and features automatic dosing, a tamping arm, and a whole of other features. You can get it for $187 off right now.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonThe Best Coffee Grinder for Most People: OXO Brew Conical Burr Coffee GrinderAmazonThis coffee grinder couldn’t be easier to use, with a single start/stop button and a top that twists to adjust the grind setting. It’s also the cheapest burr grinder we highly recommend. We even named it our top pick for most people.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe Best Sous Vide Machine: Breville Joule TurboAmazonWe tested this new Joule earlier this year and were incredibly impressed by its improved speed and app, which is packed to the gills with helpful tutorials, videos, and recipes. It’s the best sous vide machine we’ve ever tried—and right now it’s 20% off.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmSteak Knives that Cut Through Meat Like Butter: Messermeister Avanta Steak Knife SetAmazonOur longtime favorite steak knives have always been a good deal, but they're hard to resist at 20% off. The Messermeister Fine Edge knives have a sharp German steel blade and a comfy, elegant rounded wood handle. We can't say enough good things about their ability to slice through steak cleanly.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Best Wok: Yosukata Carbon Steel Wok PanAmazonWith solid heat responsiveness, a wooden main handle that stays cool, and a looped helper handle, this is our favorite wok. It comes pre-seasoned, too, so it’s ready to cook straight away.
Serious Eats / Tim ChinThe Best Stand Mixer for Casual Bakers: KitchenAid Artisan Tilt-Head Stand MixerAmazonNot kneading oodles of bread dough? Then you'll probably love this stand mixer. It's compact and powerful, and we love the large handle on its bowl. Its 5-quart bowl is big enough for most baking projects. It’s more than 20% off at the moment.
Serious Etas / Irvin LinA Durable Drip Coffee Maker: Technivorm Moccamaster Coffee BrewerAmazonThe Technivorm has the honor of being one of our favorite drip coffee makers. The brewer’s actually handmade in the Netherlands and has a stainless steel body and removable parts for easy cleanup. Commerce editor Grace Kelly is a huge fan. “For me, coffee is a simple pleasure (emphasis on simple). While many wax poetic about the virtues of a pour-over or spend hours homing in on the perfect grind size for an espresso, I prefer a no-frills cup of Joe,” Grace says. “So, for a long time, I thought any old coffee maker would do. Then, I got the Moccamaster, and the scales fell from my eyes: This drip brewer made a delicious pot of coffee—and fast. I can have a hot mug—that's balanced and smooth—in my hand in a jiffy.” Right now it (and all of Technivorm’s brewers) is 33% off for Prime Day.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyThe Most Powerful Immersion Blender: Vitamix Immersion BlenderWilliams SonomaVitamix’s handheld, immersion blender packs a punch and easily pureed and blitzed its way through our tests. It has a nonslip, grippy, silicone-coated handle, a variable speed button you can easily adjust with your thumb, and a head that twists off. This discounted, $70-off bundle includes a whisk attachment and a storage pouch.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe Best Manual Citrus Juicer: Chef'n FreshForce Citrus JuicerAmazonThis manual citrus juicer is a longtime Serious Eats recommendation. Thanks to its hinge mechanism and bowl-shaped press, it gets every last bit of juice out of citrus halves. It's $10 off at the moment.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOne of the Best Pellet Grills: Traeger Pro Series 780 Wood Pellet Grill and SmokerAmazonFor Prime Day, one of our favorite Traeger grills is $200 off. To own a Traeger is to know why they’re a juggernaut in the pellet grill space. The 780 features a digital control panel and consistent performance and its app is very easy to use. It lent a moderately smokey flavor to any food we cooked in it.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreOur Favorite Air Fryer Toaster Oven: Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer ProAmazonIf you want a do-it-all toaster oven with powerful air frying abilities, this is the one to buy. It aced our air frying tests, resulting in crunchy fries and crispy chicken wings. Commerce editor Grace Kelly uses the Breville daily: "It's super easy to program and even lets you adjust the time and temperature mid-cook," she says. It's currently $100 off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonThe Best Microwave: Toshiba Countertop Microwave OvenAmazonThis fairly basic microwave has a heat sensor that, in our tests, led to even cooking and perfectly popped popcorn. It also did really well with frozen food. For its price meets performance, we named it the best microwave.
Better Homes & Gardens / Will DickeyThe Best Gas Grill: Weber Spirit II E-310AmazonWith three burners, responsive heat adjustment, spacious side tables, and large wheels for easy transport, this is the best gas grill. We should know: We spent a month testing them. Weber’s customer service is also known to be exceptional.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreOne of the Best Air Fryers: Instant Vortex Plus ClearCook Air FryerAmazonWith a see-through window so you can check in on food as it cooks, a touchscreen, and a control knob for easily toggling the temperature and time, we named this Instant model one of our favorite air fryers. We thought the basket was plenty roomy, too.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyA Searingly Hot Countertop Pizza Oven: Breville PizzaioloAmazonDream of throwing Neapolitan pies but don't have the outdoor space? Enter the Breville Pizzaiolo, a fantastic countertop option that impressed us during our tests. It came to ideal pizza-throwing temp in 15 minutes—trust us, that deserves a wow.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreA More Tech-Heavy Vitamix: Vitamix A2300 Ascent Series BlenderAmazonThanks to a wide blending canister, an LED screen, and container-recognition capabilities, this is a particularly good blender for smoothies. It has a pulse button and a 10-speed control dial—a nice mix of techy and manual features. Right now, it's nearly $200 off for Prime Day.
Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesThe Best Budget Waffle Maker: Krups Waffle MakerAmazonThis is our longtime budget-friendly waffle maker recommendation. It has a large cooking surface, makes golden brown waffles, and has removable, dishwasher-safe plates for easy cleanup. Right now, it's about $30 off.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikA Great Larger Air Fryer: GoWISE USA 7-Quart Electric Air FryerAmazonThis air fryer has a lot going for it: It's capacious, with a 7-quart capacity, and lets you set the temperature in 5-degree increments. Fries emerge crispy and crunchy, as they should be. The GoWise is currently 44% off.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyOne of the Best Rice Cookers: Cuckoo Micom Rice CookersAmazonWe’ve recommended this rice cooker for many years. It has oodles of functions and presets (including steaming and porridge) and cooks rice really, really well. Right now, it’s nearly 40% off. One of our other favorite rice cookers from KitchenAid is also on sale at the moment.
The Best (Plastic) Food Storage Containers: Rubbermaid Brilliance Food Storage ContainersAmazonOur favorite plastic food storage containers have leakproof seals and snap-shut closures and are made from super-durable plastic. They’re also very light, which is helpful for those who pack (and carry) their lunches.
Serious Eats / Eric KingA Wicked Sharp Nakiri Knife: Shun Premier Blonde Nakiri KnifeAmazonWhile this isn’t one of our winning nakiri knives, we do recommend it (knives are very personal and it’s hard to definitively call one blade the best for every cook). The Shun is gorgeous, with a dimpled, sharp blade and pakkawood handle. Right now, it’s 20% off.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyAn Editor-Recommended Tumbler: Yeti Rambler MugAmazonOur senior commerce editor Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm (hi, it’s me!) owns several of these Yeti mugs. They’re ideal for slow coffee drinkers who want to keep their joe piping hot and have a wide, looped handle that’s nice to hold onto.
The Best Vacuum Sealers: Anova Culinary Precision Vacuum Sealer ProAmazonWith built-in bag storage, a bag cutter, moist and dry settings, and no refractory period (that’s the time between sealings), it’s easy to see why this is our favorite vacuum sealer. In our tests, its seal held up well to long sous vide times and freezer storage, too.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonAn Editor-Favorite Apron: Hedley & Bennett SmockHedley & BennettMany Serious Eats editors own this apron and are huge fans. “These smocks are durable, simple, and stylish, and are great for cooking and tackling household chores,” says our culinary editor Genevieve Yam. “As someone who never has enough pockets, I love that these smocks have not one, but two pockets!” For Prime Day, they’re 20% off.
The Best Drip Coffee Maker Under $200: OXO Brew 8-Cup Coffee MakerAmazonThis has been one of our favorite coffee makers for a while. In our tests, we loved its precise, wide spray head, which ensured even saturation and smooth extraction. In short, it brews a perfect cup (and pot) of coffee. And it's now 20% off for Prime Day.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyThe Best Swedish Dish Cloths: Swedish Wholesale Swedish DishclothsAmazonSwedish dishcloths are like hybrids between sponges and paper towels...and we think most cooks will love 'em. You can use them for mopping up spills and washing and drying dishes. Right now, our favorites are even cheaper.
Serious Eats / Eric KingThe Best Kitchen Towels: Zeppoli Classic Dish TowelsAmazonThese are sturdy kitchen towels that you can use to grasp a pan's hot handle as readily as you can to sop up a spill. And now, they're a few bucks cheaper for Prime Day.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyTruly Great Olive Oil: Brightland The DuoBloomingdale'sWe tried a whole bunch of olive oils and really liked the ones from Brightland. As we said in our review, “We actually found Awake a bit bolder than Alive, with a potent peppery burn and strong bitter edge; a little will go a long way. Alive was a bit more mellow, fruity, and round, though it still had that back of the throat burn.”
Serious Eats / Grace KellyA Classic, Great Single-Serve Coffee Brewer: AeroPress Original Coffee and Espresso-style MakerAmazonThis single-serve coffee maker from Aeropress is light and compact, and it brews a fantastic cup of coffee. All of this means you can stash it in a backpack or suitcase and have access to better coffee than your hotel may offer. It's currently 30% off for Prime Day.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe Best Soda Maker: SodaStream ArtAmazonOur favorite soda maker produces great bubbly water and a flip-out, cage-style CO2 loading system which is easy to use. For Prime Day, this bundle that includes the Art, two CO2 cylinders, two bottles, and some flavor drops is nearly 50% off.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubMicrowave Cookware We Actually Recommend: Anyday Cookware SetAnydayWhen we reviewed the microwave-safe Anyday Cookware, we were pleasantly surprised. We called it “wonderfully functional” and “a great purchase for those hoping to make meal preparation microwave-friendly and uncomplicated.” The set’s $35 off for Prime Day.
Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinThe Best Large Food Processor: Breville Sous Chef Peel and Dice 16 Cup Food ProcessorAmazonOne of our longtime favorite food processors, the Breville Sous Chef is fancy. It has a count-up timer and brightly lit buttons and purees and pulverizes with ease. For Prime Day, this set (which comes with a bevy of attachments) is $200 off.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikA Great Set of Stainless Steel Skillets: All-Clad D3 Stainless Steel Fry Pan SetAmazonIt's hard to beat All-Clad's stainless steel. It performs well and lasts just about forever. We also like its handles: The indent that runs down their lengths prevents them from rolling in your palms. For Prime Day, this 10- and 12-inch pan duo is on sale.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThe Best Coffee Maker with a Built-in Grinder: Breville Grind Control Coffee MachineAmazonIf you must buy a drip coffee maker with a built-in grinder, this is the one we recommend. It has adjustable grind settings and a smart water reservoir that only dispenses what you need.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe Best Cordless Electric Can Opener: Kitchen Mama Electric Can OpenerAmazonIt's rather fun to watch this electric can opener spin around and open a can on its own. It also creates a blunt edge on can lids (safety!). Right now, the Kitchen Mama is nearly $15 off.
Serious Eats / Eric KingA Budget-Friendly Electric Wine Opener: Oster Electric Wine OpenerAmazonThis inexpensive electric wine bottle opener easily and smoothly opened bottle after bottle in our tests. It even comes with a foil cutter and a stand.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Best Dish Rack: KitchenAid Full-Size Dish RackAmazonThis dish rack is SUPER sturdy and can hold a ton of dishes at once. High side walls meant nary a plate was in danger of falling off the side during our tests. It's nearly 45% off for Prime Day.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe Best Hot Water Dispenser: Zojirushi Micom Water Boiler and WarmerAmazonWe really love hot water dispensers, which basically offer hot water on demand 24/7 should you choose. This one has a digital display and a see-through window so you can gauge the water level.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyDinner Party-Ready Flatware: Lenox 815486 Portola 65-Piece Flatware SetAmazonThis flatware set is large enough for a dinner party—not the case with many smaller sets we tested. They're easy to clean and surprisingly durable considering they're embellished with a beaded pattern on the flared handles. Right now, it's on sale for 45% off.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziA Small But Mighty Bread Machine: Zojirushi Home Bakery Mini BreadmakerAmazonZojirushi dominated our bread machine test, taking two out of three winning spots. The Home Bakery Mini Breadmaker was our pick for best compact bread machine, and at 8.5 x 11.25 x 12.25 inches, it really delivers on that title. (It's also just 12 pounds.) Every style loaf we baked in it was tender, with a soft crumb. It's on sale now for almost $100 off.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyThe Best Kitchen Towels for Spills: Utopia Towels Bar MopsAmazonWhen we tested kitchen towels, we quickly learned terry cloth was best for mopping spills and drying hands. You can spend a fortune on designer towels, but this set of 12 gets the job done, and can't be beat for durability. Commerce editor Rochelle Bilow uses them in place of paper towels for cleaning and says, "I stock up whenever they're on sale. The white color is best because I can toss a load in the washer with bleach."
An Impressive Handheld Coffee Grinder: Timemore Max Manual GrinderAmazonHandheld coffee grinders are a morning-saver for coffee drinkers who travel often or like camping. The Timemore performed almost as well as the winner in our handheld grinders review, at a fraction of the price. The textured body is attractive and, more importantly, easy to grip when handling.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe Best Pasta Maker Attachment for a Stand Mixer: Antree Pasta Maker AttachmentAmazonWe loved this pasta maker attachment, which is compatible with KitchenAid stand mixers. The rollers and cutters all live in the main body, so you don't have to swap them out as you're working. It works seamlessly with the stand mixer's motor, so you can use both hands to guide your pasta out of the cutters. The Antree has always sold less than the KitchenAid attachment (another one of our winners), but right now it's over 30% off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreA Flat-Top Grill Worthy of Your Best Smashed Burgers: Weber 36-Inch Gas GriddleWeberFlat-top grills are key for lacy-edged smashed burgers, pounds of pancakes, and enough grilled cheese sandwiches for a crowd. The most important aspect of a good flat-top grill is a surface with even heating throughout: The Weber nailed it in our tests. We liked the click-to-ignite burners and disposable drip tray that made cooking and cleanup blissfully easy. It's currently on sale for an impressive 34% off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreA Gorgeous Gooseneck Kettle for Pour-Over Coffee: Fellow Stagg EKG Electric KettleAmazonThe Fellow Stagg Electric Kettle is an elegant, incredibly accurate gooseneck kettle ideal for pour-over coffee. You can customize the temperature to the degree (135-212˚F), and it's certainly good-looking enough to keep on your counter at all times. Right now, it's on sale for 20% off.
The Spruce Eats / Ashley RodriguezThe Best Budget-Friendly Electric Citrus Juicer: BLACK & DECKER 32oz Electric Citrus JuicerAmazonNo more twisting and shouting when it comes to juicing a lemon. Instead, let this electric citrus juicer do the work for you, so there's less time squeezing and more time sipping lemonade. The Hamilton Beach did a fab job juicing larger citrus, like lemons and oranges, and it featured a nifty pour spout that funneled juice out neatly.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmA Fantastic Compressor Ice Cream Maker: Whynter Ice Cream Maker MachineAmazonCompressor-style ice cream machines let you make ice cream without having to freeze a bowl beforehand. In our tests, this behemoth from Whynter churned gorgeous ice cream, and we also liked its easy-to-use digital control panel.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonA Powerful, Portable Induction Cooktop: Duxtop 1900MC Induction BurnerAmazonPortable induction cooktops are handy for traveling, but we think they're powerful and accurate enough to use every day: We even use them regularly when testing cookware. This one, from Duxtop, is the very best we've tested and it's currently on sale for 15% off.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerOne of Our Favorite Soft Coolers: Engel HD30 Heavy-Duty Soft-Sided Cooler BagAmazonThis roomy option from Engel kept pace with the Yeti up to the 40-hour mark in our review of soft coolers. In addition to doing a fantastic job keeping things chilled, it also has a built-in bottle opener and a vacuum valve so you can suck the air out and improve its cold retention further.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmThe Best Non-Variable Electric Kettle: Fellow Clyde Electric KettleFellowThis gorgeous non-variable electric kettle heated 3.5 cups of water in a little over four minutes—in other words, lickety-split. We also loved its sleek form and ergonomic, silicone-covered handle. And for Prime Day, you can snag the Fellow Clyde for less than $100 and have access to endless cups of tea.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyA Very Durable French Press: Coffee Gator French PressAmazonThis French press is cheap, durable, and keeps coffee HOT for a long time. We liked its dual filter and the fact that it came with a canister for storing coffee beans.
Serious Eats / Isaac NunnA Cast Iron Grill Press for Smash Burgers: Cuisinart Cast Iron Grill PressAmazonA heavy-duty grill press is key for perfectly browned grilled cheeses and ultra-crispy smash burgers. This sturdy offering from Cuisinart aced our tests, with a wooden handle that kept our hands safe and enough heft to produce crackling bacon and perfectly golden grilled cheese. Right now, it's nearly half-off for Prime Day.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Best Safety Mandoline: Dash Safe Slice MandolineAmazonIf using a mandoline gives you visions of ER trips past, we recommend this one from Dash. It works kind of like a guillotine and keeps your hands away entirely from the blade. In our tests, we found it sliced pretty well, too.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Best Water Filter Pitcher: LifeStraw Water Filter PitcherAmazonOur favorite water filter pitcher worked really well and looked great. Right now, both sizes and a variety of colorways are on sale for Prime Day.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziOne of the Best Insulated Tumblers: Owala Stainless Steel Insulated TumblerOwalaThis was one of the only insulated tumblers we tested that didn't leak when tipped over. It also had great cold retention and a grippy handle. Right now, the Owala's over 20% off.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmThe Best Electric Griddle: Presto Electric Tilt-in-Fold GriddleAmazonThis is our longtime favorite electric griddle. Its legs fold inward, which is super helpful for storage. In our tests, its large surface heated up mostly evenly, too, easily accommodating a plentiful amount of pancakes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFAQsWhen is Prime Day? This year, Prime Day will be on July 16th and 17th. That’s a Tuesday and a Wednesday!
Do you have to have a Prime membership to shop Prime Day? Yes, you do have to be an Amazon Prime member to shop Prime Day sales. You can sign up here (you’ll even get a 30-day free trial).
Why We’re the Experts* Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm is the senior commerce editor at Serious Eats and has been with the site since 2021. * She previously worked for America’s Test Kitchen and Food52 and has been testing gear professionally for about six years.
Vicky WasikHumans have been inventing ways to make ice cream for thousands of years, ever since the first person poured something tasty and sweet on snow. And while today we rely primarily on ice-cream makers to freeze and churn the timeless treat, there's still a desire—and need—for no-churn recipes. After all, ice cream makers are costly, large, and/or require a lengthy freezing step for models that work via a freezer bowl (which some of us sometimes forget to put in the freezer soon enough).
Most recipes for no-churn ice cream are built on a combination of evaporated or condensed milk and whipped cream, and while they work, that canned dairy tends to add a distinct flavor that is decidedly un-ice-cream-like. Plus, those recipes fail to deliver the custardy notes of egg-enriched French-style ice creams.
In her quest to solve this problem, pastry genius Stella Parks landed on a solution that unlocked a whole world of no-churn frozen treats, from straight-up custardy ice creams to light and airy fillings for frozen sweets like DIY Klondike bars and slice-and-serve ice cream pies. The secret ingredients? The humble egg.
Now, that alone may not sound like much of a revelation—Oh wow, you solved the not-custardy-enough no-churn ice cream problem by adding the ingredient that literally makes custard custard!—but the devil's in the details, as they say, and the details here are all about the technique.
When Stella first cracked the code on custardy French-style ice cream, she did so by devising an entirely new technique for heating, whipping, and aerating the ice cream base before freezing such that one can produce mounds of light, fluffy, and minimally icy ice cream, no churning required.
She does this by heating eggs and sugar over a hot water bath until it reaches 160°F—a temperature that is both safe from a Salmonella standpoint and also allows the eggs to hold more air once whipped. And whipping is exactly what happens next, in a stand mixer until the eggy base is a pale color and thick enough to form soft serve–like mounds. After that, she folds in whipped cream (how else is it going to taste like ice cream?) and freezes the mixture until perfectly scoopable.
This basic method became the key that then unlocked a whole new world of frozen-desserts discovery: Perfect no-churn ice cream fillings for pies and bars. This time, instead of seeking the custardy flavor of a classic French ice cream, Stella was after the pure, fresh dairy flavor of an eggless American- or Philadelphia-style ice cream. The solution: Swiss meringue. (Yes, it's funny that the solution to an egg-free-tasting ice cream is egg whites, but it makes sense when you remember that much of the flavor of eggs comes from the yolks.)
It’s the best way she’s found to achieve an ice cream that’s light but firm enough to be incorporated into bars and pies—recipes where you want something fluffy and airy, but still able to hold their own and bite into. The cool thing about this particular trick is that it isn't just a workaround for those who don't have an ice-cream maker on hand, but her actual preferred way to make the frozen fillings for recipes like homemade Klondike bars to her strawberry shortcake ice cream bars. By folding a Swiss meringue with whipped cream, she was able to hit the sweet spot that defines these desserts: neither too heavy like fior di latte gelato, too thin like homemade ice milk, nor too custardy like the no-churn vanilla ice cream.
The process of making Swiss meringue is simple. Nothing more than egg whites, sugar, salt, cream of tartar, and vanilla, you start by incorporating these ingredients together in a stand mixer. Once combined, set the bowl over steaming water, stirring and scraping constantly until the egg whites hold steady. Finally, you’ll whip this mixture in a stand mixer at a high speed until it’s glossy, fluffy, and able to hold stiff peaks. To take this Swiss meringue into “ice cream” territory, whip heavy cream into stiff peaks, add some milk to the Swiss meringue to help firm the mixture up once frozen and whisk to combine, then whisk in whipped cream until smooth.
In her no-churn ice cream pie recipe, Stella notes that the results of this trick are too firm for scooping, so I wouldn’t rely on this method to enjoy ice cream on its own in a bowl for dessert. But in the form of an ice cream pie or bar, its density and consistency is just excellent. And just like that, a new summer treat has just been unlocked—no ice cream maker required.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleFeaturing layers of vanilla ice cream, fresh strawberries, swirls of whipped cream, and a fan wafer, the knickerbocker glory is a summer staple at ice cream parlors and seaside cafés across the United Kingdom. I first encountered the knickerbocker glory back in 2019 when I moved to London to attend pastry school and began an ongoing quest to eat my way through the repertoire of classic British desserts. Even though I discovered this sundae on the British side of the Atlantic, its name immediately reminded me of home. Turns out, there was a good reason for that mental connection, as this dessert almost certainly traces its roots to New York.
A Brief History of the Knickerbocker GloryIn his 1809 History of New York, former US ambassador Washington Irving—writing under the pen name Diedrich Knickerbocker—referred to descendants of the city’s early Dutch settlers as “knickerbockers.” This may be why countless New York buildings, businesses, and landmarks, including a Brooklyn subway station, a hotel, a housing development, and of course, the city's famous basketball team, have adopted this peculiar name. As a New Yorker, I wasn’t surprised to learn that a sundae called the “knickerbocker glory” originated not in Britain but in the Big Apple.
Although the exact history of the knickerbocker glory remains hazy, it likely dates back to the early 20th century. A recipe for a similar dessert named "The Knickerbocker" appears in The Dispenser's Formulary or Soda Water Guide, a manual for soda fountain operators published in New York in 1915. With ice cream, chocolate syrup, raspberries, cherries, whipped cream, and rose essence “served in a tall, narrow, 10 ounce, thin glass,” the dish may very well have been the blueprint for the knickerbocker glory that eventually made its way across the pond.
The London department store Fortnum & Mason claims it introduced the sundae to the country in the 1950s; the knickerbocker glory is so synonymous with the store today that it even sells sundae-shaped souvenirs. British newspaper advertisements from the 1920s and 1930s, however, reveal that the knickerbocker was around before Fortnum & Mason put it on its menu. Writing for the Scottish newspaper The Press & Journal, editor Brian Stormont notes that it’s likely the dessert “first came to prominence” in 1920s London, but wasn’t popularized until it appeared on the menu of American burger chain Wimpy’s, which opened its first British location in 1954 and sold the knickerbocker glory until 2011.
Today, the London restaurant Dovetale offers an £18 ($23) “luxury sundae” from a high-tech tableside trolley designed by rocket engineers and equipped with carbon dioxide jets. You certainly don’t need a fancy trolley to make your own knickerbocker glory at home, though.
Serious Eats / Larisa Niedle5 Tips for Making a Stellar Knickerbocker GloryLike most easily customizable desserts, there’s no definitive recipe for the knickerbocker glory, but a classic one typically includes vanilla ice cream; a fruit purée, syrup, or coulis; fresh fruit; swirls of whipped cream; and a fan wafer, all served in a tall glass with a long metal spoon.
Traditional versions, including the iconic Fortnum & Mason offering, usually feature strawberries, raspberries, or a combination of the two. The white ice cream and bright red berries create a striped pattern thought to mimic the facade of the historic Knickerbocker Hotel in New York, or perhaps the long socks worn with another US export, knickerbocker breeches.
There's plenty of room for creativity, though, and it’s not uncommon to see chefs layer in additional components, like meringue, cake, marshmallows, or fruit jelly. Other more modern takes may include poached rhubarb, roasted peaches, caramel sauce, brownie chunks, nut brittle, or honeycomb. There are even boozy variations with alcohol-infused fruit syrups and fudgy versions for chocolate lovers. With the tips below, you’ll be able to make a spectacular knickerbocker glory to suit your tastes.
Gather your mise en place. Because we’re working with ice cream, time is of the essence; the first key to success when making a knickerbocker glory is to have all the components ready to go. Once the ice cream is softened, the fruit is diced and puréed, and the cream is whipped, you can start assembling your knickerbocker glory immediately.
Soften the ice cream. For ice cream that blends easily with the berries and syrup for a swirly, striped look, you want it to be just soft enough to work with—not the firm scoops of ice cream you’d get straight out of the freezer. Aim for scoopable but not quite soft serve consistency, and definitely not runny. Any brand or flavor of ice cream will work, but traditional vanilla will likely complement the fresh berries best—and help create the sundae’s signature red-and-white pattern.
Make your own fruit purée. You can substitute store-bought strawberry sauce if you’re short on time, but it's worth taking a few minutes to make your own, which will allow you to adjust the sweetness of the purée as desired. We've written the sauce into the recipe below, and while it's quick to prep at the last minute, you can also make it up to two days in advance.
Alternate your layers. For the prettiest sundae, alternate the syrup, fruit, and ice cream in a tall glass and use the long parfait spoon to push the fruit and ice cream outward to the edges. A sundae glass is nice and will allow you to admire your dessert, but if you don’t have one, a tall drinking glass or jar will work too.
Get creative. Feel free to experiment with different fruits, sauces, and nuts or cookies for extra crunch. But if you’d like to stick with the classic version below, that’s perfectly fine, too. After all, you really can’t go wrong with the summery combo of vanilla ice cream, berries, and whipped cream.
Remove container of ice cream from freezer. Set aside to soften until easily scoopable but not melted, about 10 to 15 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the other components.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleIn the bowl of a food processor or the jug of an immersion blender, combine 1/2 cup (70g) diced strawberries and 1 tablespoon powdered sugar. Purée until smooth, about 1 minute. Using a fine-mesh sieve set over a small bowl, strain purée, scraping and pressing with a flexible spatula to push mixture through as needed. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleIn the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip heavy cream and 1 teaspoon powdered sugar, if using, on medium-high speed until stiff peaks form, about 2 minutes. (Alternatively, place heavy cream in a medium bowl and, using a hand mixer, whip heavy cream and powdered sugar, if using, on medium-high speed until stiff peaks form, about 2 minutes.) Using a flexible spatula, transfer whipped cream to prepared piping bag and refrigerate until ready to use.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleCover bottom of a parfait glass with 1 tablespoon strawberry purée. Add remaining 1/4 cup (35g) diced strawberries. Top with 1 scoop vanilla ice cream and drizzle with 1 tablespoon strawberry purée. Top with 1 more scoop vanilla ice cream and raspberries, using an iced tea–spoon to smooth ice cream and arrange fruit as needed. Top with 1 scoop vanilla ice cream and drizzle with remaining strawberry purée.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedlePipe whipped cream over the sundae and garnish with a fan wafer. Serve immediately with iced tea–spoon.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleSpecial EquipmentPiping bag, star piping tip, parfait glass, hand mixer, food processor, fine-mesh strainer, ice cream scoop, long spoon
NotesIf you don't have a parfait glass, you can assemble your knickerbocker glory in a tall drinking glass or glass jar instead.
If you can’t find fan wafers, you can garnish your knickerbocker glory with rolled wafer sticks.
Make-Ahead and StorageYou can prepare the strawberry purée up to 48 hours in advance. Refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to use.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWe have been through so many taste tests together now. We’ve braved pounds of cream cheese. Mountains of butter. Puddles of peanut butter. And yet, no one on our team has been more excited for a taste test than they were about our mint chocolate chip ice cream showdown. It’s pretty! It’s polarizing! It’s popular! It should, in theory, make a whole bunch of you very happy and/or very, very mad. And the internet needs more of that kind of fodder, don’t you think?
And so, the Serious Eats team recently pulled together 14 (!) brands of mint chocolate ice cream you're likely to find in your local supermarket and methodically, empirically, scientifically! tasted its way through them all in a quest to identify the very best. And we loved every minute of doing it! Also, many of us felt very, very unwell after the fact.
Ed. note: Van Leeuwen and Target’s Favorite Day were, among others on our sample lists, but we were unable to procure them the day of the test despite our best efforts. I can’t wait to hear about how much you love them, though, as well as all the other brands our nonexistent West Coast correspondent should have contributed to the test. Xo!
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Contenders* Adirondack Creamery Whiteface Mint Chip * Baskin Robbins Mint Chocolate Chip * Ben & Jerry’s Mint Chocolate Cookie Peppermint * Best Yet Mint Chocolate Chip * Breyers Mint Chocolate Chip * Edy’s Mint Chocolate Chip * Friendly’s Mint Chocolate Chip * Graeter’s Mint Chocolate Chip * Häagen-Dazs Mint Chip * Jeni’s Green Mint Chip * McConnell’s Mint Chip * Tillamook Mint Chocolate Chip * Turkey Hill Mint Chocolate Chip * Wegman’s Mint Chocolate Chip
The CriteriaA good mint chocolate chip ice cream is, and I want you to take a deep breath here, not too minty. Don’t get me wrong—it’s definitely minty! But if any part of you takes a bite and clenches because a tiny dentist is yelling at you in your head, you are not eating a nice mint chocolate chip ice cream. As with all our other ice cream taste tests, creaminess is important—wateriness is incorrect. Also important (perhaps equally so!) is that the chocolate present throughout is high-quality, evenly dispersed, and substantially chunky. In a lot of these samples, we encountered smaller shards drowning in ice cream, little squares that kinda clumped, and/or meteorites of chalky junk floating in the corner, waiting to take your tooth #16 out, sending you right back to the dentist as a fun, full-circle bit.
Two things that surprised me: In a few instances, the team picked up on distinct minty-ness from the chips themselves, rather than the surrounding ice cream. Those instances did not correlate to high rankings! The ice cream should be nudgingly but distinctly minty, and the nice, uniform chocolate should be distinctly chocolatey. Secondly, we…don’t really care about color!? I went into the day intending to blindfold my coworkers to ensure they couldn’t let the color of the sample impede their opinions. It turns out there is no comfortable or appropriate way to blindfold your coworkers and force-feed them ice cream, so…they saw everything going into their mouths. And their top choices ran the gamut from stark white to gentle gray to greeeeeeen! What fun.
Of note: Similarly to our chocolate ice cream taste test, we conducted this round on a sweltering and disgustingly humid NYC day. These ice creams were transported from all over the city and sat in a freezer I yanked open near-constantly over the course of the day. There was no way to preserve their textural integrity as we would’ve liked to, but…we did our best! And, as with the chocolate ice cream taste test, I built the uncontrollable variability of iciness/meltiness into the sampling templates, asking people to separate temperature side effects out of their rankings as much as possible.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe RankingsBen & Jerry’s Mint Chocolate Cookie Peppermint, 3.87/5This Ben & Jerry’s pint—which is a pleasant muddled greenish-gray—ate the way good skincare feels. It was viscous upon contact (in a luxurious way), it smelled good (in a nice afterthought–type way), and eating it felt like you were doing something nice for yourself (in a really uplifting way). I’m not suggesting every other mid-millennial out there reading this should begin slugging with Ben & Jerry’s mint chip, but I’m not not saying we all shouldn’t cleanse with this while we eat it. More relevant to this particular article, perhaps, is the fact that this sample felt very low on stabilizers but held its own nicely, particularly in contrast to the luxe and substantial chocolate-y cookie crumbles.
Baskin Robbins Mint Chocolate Chip, 3.43/5Behold: the fourth consecutive Serious Eats taste test in which these predictable little monsters gave a deeply nostalgic offering the silver medal. Fascinating! It’s difficult to extrapolate the facts here: Is Baskin Robbins mint chip (a spearmint gum-green ice cream which was “very chocolate-y, and I do love that,” per our visuals director Amanda with a “fantastic chip-to-cream ratio,” per our product lead Alison) actually the second-best ice cream here or do my coworkers all need bi-weekly therapy? Hard to say!
Häagen-Dazs Mint Chip, 3.33/5Another SE ice cream taste test top three staple: Häagen-Dazs! This particular flavor was creamy and sweet, and though it was one of only three without the word “chocolate” in its name, it featured luscious, chunky chunks that everyone took note of. These chunks even outshone the actual ice cream, to some. Amanda put it best: “These chips command a lot of attention.” TL:DR; if you’re looking for a mint-heavy, chocolate-light mint chocolate chip, this isn’t quite the one for you, but if you are a chocolate lover who likes a subtle mintiness, you’re probably going to love this one. Oh! And it’s snooow-white.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWegman’s Mint Chocolate Chip, 3.35/5Enough of a mixed bag of feedback here that this one squiggled its way toward the top. Of note: This isn’t the first time a Wegman’s product has done that! It had a significant hit of mint at the front—some, like our social media editor, Kelli, adored this, while others, such as Amanda, likened it to toothpaste—and not in a good way. Either way, it stretched nicely, had nice chip distribution, and wasn’t overly sweet. Color-wise, it was like…man-handled white chalk. But in a fun way!
Graeter’s Mint Chocolate Chip, 3.25/5My pre-tasting notes read: “Seems fancy.” It was milky-white, firm enough to form a scoop shop-ish scoop, and it smelled nice. Genevieve noticed its "milkiness", but noted it tasted watery in addition to creamy. Kelli and Amanda clocked a gumminess that wasn’t entirely pleasant or unpleasant. All this to say, this was a satisfying option, if not exactly a fulfilling one?
Friendly’s Mint Chocolate Chip, 3.125/5It was so wild how I opened this pint and, right as I began scooping, Frankenstein's monster said back to me: “If I cannot inspire love, I will cause fear.” Tasting notes ranged from: “Dentist!! Dentist!” to “I’ve had this before…” to “Idk what this tastes like but it doesn’t taste like mint.” After our tasting was complete and I revealed this option—the most jarring, neon-adjacent green—to be Friendly’s, Helen, our guest taster/resident SEO genius, threw her head back and laughed in an "I knew it"-type way. Again, they ranked this one above-average!
McConnell’s Mint Chip, 3.17/5Unequivocally the mintiest of the bunch. If! You! Want! A for-real-minty mint chocolate chip ice cream! You should! Pick! This! One! Comparisons were made to Ice Breakers commercials of yore. It looked like vanilla bean ice cream from the jump. It served as a nice palate cleanser for all that came after it! It also was a very helpful sample in determining criteria for this test—mint chocolate chip should not, in fact, be three-sticks-of-spicy-gum minty.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTillamook Mint Chocolate Chip, 2.56/5Another option in which the chunks shone (“These are the chunkiest chunks that have ever been chunked,” wrote Kelli), but the ice cream enveloping them didn’t as much. Tasters craved an ice cream with more mint and a firmer constitution. The whole experience, though aesthetically pleasing (we’ll call the color “white-ish”) and easy to scoop, felt muted.
Adirondack Creamery Whiteface Mint Chip, 2.56/5Here we enter icy territory. Not, like, the aforementioned Ice Breaker ice. We just ended up with a ice- and chocolate shard-heavy pint. And with shard-shaped chocolate chips kinda-sorta scattered throughout, it wasn’t the creamy, balanced experience the group was hoping for. This sample points for prettiness, heft, and what might have been a more defined mint flavor on a different, less freezer-burned day.
Best Yet Mint Chocolate Chip, 2.4/5I used up my two permitted dentist references three or four samples ago, so I can’t sit here talking about the toothpaste-iness of this guy for too long, but I will tell you: It felt like Best Yet R&D thought “No one else has gone full-steam-ahead at the toothpaste option. Let’s fill that space.” And they absolutely understood that assignment. Dental hygiene flavor? Check. Dental hygiene color? Check. Dental hygiene texture? It was “like whipped cream and ice cream met up,” per Alison, so nah.
Jeni’s Green Mint Chip, 2.25/5From here on out, each ice cream was a cloudier color, whether it fell under the realm of “gray,” “green,” or “mossy cement gray-green.” (Again, color did not seem to factor into these rankings, but I'm noting them in case you do fall squarely into a "green chip" or "white chip" camp.) Jeni’s looked like the latter and…listen, we all sincerely love Jeni’s in our personal lives, but this simply did not hold up to the heat for even a minute, nor did it taste great in its quickly puddled form. That said, the chips were small, yummy, and evenly dispersed enough to make people happy, and the mint flavor—A more spearmint-forward energy I’m going to chalk up to the presence of honey in its ingredients list—was different enough from the rest that everyone took note.
Edy’s Mint Chocolate Chip, 2.05/5OK. So! This was nice but extremely sweet! How nice to have an option that woke up and said “I’m going to put every other sugary option to shame.” Sometimes, you really do just need to eat something you know is going to take you out later!! There were a lot of chocolate chips all up in this ice cream! Plus, if I had to describe the color, I’d call it “Lana Del Ray’s seafoam of choice,” so that’s cool in some circles!!!
Breyers Mint Chocolate Chip, 1.86/5A well-intentioned ice cream with a prevailing sense of artificiality throughout. If you served this to me in an ice cream cake at a four-year-old’s birthday party on the world’s hottest day that would completely track for me!!
Turkey Hill Mint Chocolate Chip, 1.5/5See above, but I would probably duck out of that party before dessert. That’s all!
Our Testing MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted with brands completely hidden and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample 1 first, while taster B will taste sample 6 first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation of actual results possible.
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowSpringing for a six-stage air purifier that can freshen up over 1,000 square feet of living space may seem like overkill for someone who lives in a 350-square-foot apartment. But what if the apartment in question is in the basement, and inhabited by someone who cooks a lot? (Hi, it’s me!) In that case, a turbo-charged air purifier might be the perfect solution.
After signing a new lease last year and exhaustively researching air purifiers, I got the Rabbit A3 air purifier. I’d never lived in a basement, and I was worried that the air quality would be damp and musty. On paper, I was impressed by Rabbit’s promise of six levels of filtration, but what really sold me was the option to choose a custom filter for the final layer. Because I cook daily and the stovetop is about three feet from my bedroom, I picked the odor remover filter. (The other choices are germ defense, pet allergy, and toxin absorber.) If the air purifier could minimize kitchen odors quickly, I’d consider it a good buy.
I’ve been using the A3 for a year now, and I’m smitten with it. Frankly, I don’t know how I made it so long without an air purifier, full stop.
How Does an Air Purifier Work?The A3's control panel shows the quality of the air, the current power level, and whether the filter needs to be changed (oops, mine does!).Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowAt their most basic, air purifiers trap impurities like odors, allergens, and viruses inside the unit. This is why filters need to be changed regularly; otherwise, they’ll become oversaturated and won’t work correctly. The Rabbit A3 air purifier has six layers of filtration, and while more isn’t always better, it certainly seems to matter when it comes to air purifiers. I’ve noticed a huge improvement in my apartment’s air quality since I started using it.
Here’s a rundown of the filtration layers found in the A3. (Not all air purifiers have six layers, but you’ll want one that has, at minimum, a pre-filter and a HEPA filter; plus a carbon filter if you want to tackle cooking smells.)
- Pre-Filter: The pre-filter is a paneled mesh screen that traps the big stuff: pet hair, dust, and pollen. This filter is reusable and can be cleaned with a vacuum brush attachment or by washing it.
- Medium Filter: This is another line of defense for the larger things. Any hair, dust, or dander that escapes the pre-filter will get caught here. This filter should be replaced every six months.
- Activated Carbon Charcoal Filter: This filter is packed with pellets of charcoal that have undergone an activation process, which makes them extremely porous. That porosity provides a large surface area for absorbing household odors of all types, including cooking, pet, and cleaning product smells.
- HEPA Filter: A must in any high-quality air purifier, HEPA filters capture the itty-bitty stuff: anything as small as 0.1 microns. (Unsure of what a micron looks like? You’d need a microscope to view one. This is the filter that catches viruses.)
- Customized Filter: You can choose the final filter for the Rabbit Air A3. I selected the odor removal option, but people who suffer from dander allergies may prefer the pet allergen filter. If you live in a highly polluted place, you may opt for the toxin removal filter, and if you’re concerned about illness, you’ll want to get the germ defense filter.
- Negative Ions: This isn’t a filter, but a button you can press to activate negative ions. Negative ions—naturally occurring molecules—latch onto airborne particles, weighing them down. The heavier the particles are, the more likely they are to be picked up by your air filter or vacuum, rather than inhaled.
Do Air Purifiers Work for Kitchen Smells? Most air purifiers will help lessen cooking smells, but if you want to eliminate them, you’ll need an air purifier with a carbon filter. The best air purifier for your kitchen is one that has a reusable mesh filter for capturing dust and hair, a HEPA filter for health hazards, and a carbon filter for the stinky stuff. “High-quality activated carbon has a highly porous structure with a high carbon content, resulting in a large internal surface area,” explains Olivia Raya, Rabbit Air’s customer service lead. “Cooking odors are reduced as they bond to the pores of [the carbon filter] through electrostatic attraction or chemisorption.”
How Does the Rabbit Air A3 Odor Removal Filter Work?What’s the difference between Rabbit Air’s charcoal filter and the special odor removal filter? Both use activated carbon, just in different formats. The basic carbon filter, which comes with every A3, is packed with pellets of activated charcoal. The porous nature of the pellets gives them lots of space for capturing odors. Some of our favorite compost bins have activated charcoal filters tucked into their lids—proof that this stuff works!
The odor remover customized filter uses activated carbon woven directly into its fibers. It’s designed to work in tandem with the existing charcoal filter to trap household odors, particularly smoke, explains Raya.
The Verdict: Is the Rabbit A3 Air Purifier Any Good?The A3's default front panel is a discrete white, but the brand sells artist-designed panels, too.Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowThis air filter is a good buy for kitchen smells—especially if you choose one with an odor-removal filter. I’ve been running it constantly (seriously, 24 hours a day) for a year, and my apartment never smells like last night’s dinner. I lived in the apartment for a week before setting it up, and I noticed an improvement within a couple of hours of use. As a test, I cooked tofu curry that evening. The A3 was set on auto and immediately kicked into high gear. When I finished cooking, the A3 returned to its quietest level. By morning, all olfactory reminders of dinner were gone.
My air purifier also worked overtime last summer, when the Canadian wildfires caused unsafe air quality in my Vermont town. But even with all that extra environmental influence, the filters didn’t need to be changed for six months—the A3’s app will tell you when it’s time to swap them out. A red filter icon also shows up on the display panel when they're clogged.
Although you can manually set the fan speed, I prefer to put it on auto-mode. The air purifier detects the level of impurities and smells in the air, and kicks into a higher gear when necessary. Most of the time, it’s on the lowest, incredibly quiet, level.
The A3 comes with hardware to wall-mount it, but put it on my bedroom floor, near the door to the kitchen. It’s inconspicuous, but should I ever choose to display it in a more prominent space, it certainly doesn’t look bad! I have a feeling the A3 will be coming with me wherever I live, no matter how many more times I move.
FAQsDoes air purifier size matter?It’s a myth that smaller air purifiers can’t handle larger rooms. Air purifiers with smaller capacities will simply take longer to purify a large room, or may have to run at a higher speed.
Is the Rabbit air purifier good?I’ve been using the Rabbit A3 air purifier for a year, and I confidently recommend it. It’s high-quality, long-lasting, and easy to use. And with the option to swap out decorative filter covers, it doesn’t look half-bad, either.
What’s the best air purifier for the kitchen?A kitchen air purifier should have, at minimum, a carbon filter for capturing odors and a HEPA filter for bacteria and viruses. Most air purifiers also have a pre-filter, which is a reusable mesh filter that traps hair and dust.
Is it okay to put an air purifier near the stove?It’s not recommended because the fire and water hazards associated with cooking can damage the unit. That said, Raya says putting an air purifier in the kitchen—a reasonable distance from the range—can significantly improve air quality: “Cooking typically generates a variety of pollutants, both gaseous and particulate, which can affect indoor air quality and potentially impact health.”
Raya notes that the most common types of cooking-related pollutants include carbon monoxide (generated from incomplete combustion of fuels like natural gas, propane, or charcoal) and volatile organic compounds (VOCs), emitted from both the cooking process and the heating of cooking oils. Proper ventilation is key for ridding your kitchen of these compounds. An open window and exhaust fan are helpful allies to the air purifier.
Why We’re the Experts* Rochelle Bilow is a commerce editor at Serious Eats. * Before joining the staff, she was a freelance writer for the site, reviewing kitchen gear and cooking equipment like Vitamix blenders and anti-fatigue mats. * She is a culinary school graduate and former line cook, and has worked in food media for a decade and a half. * She owns the Rabbit A3 air filter and has used it constantly for a year.
Serious Eats / Qi AiCajun cooking offers a rich tradition of seasoning and cooking styles that are known around the country, and even around the world. Gumbo, jambalaya, and dirty rice are just a few classics you can find in this list, but we also offer variations on some classic Cajun dishes and take full advantage of the full flavor of Cajun seasoning. Whether you're looking for some warm, comforting stew or something to cook at your next backyard barbecue, take a look at these Cajun recipes for some inspiration from the Gulf Coast.
Cajun ShrimpSerious Eats / Robby LozanoDry-brined and tossed in a balanced spice blend that packs subtle heat, this Cajun shrimp is tender, juicy, and full of flavor.
Cajun Gumbo With Chicken and Andouille SausageSerious Eats / Vicky WasikWhat makes gumbo a gumbo? There's the roux, and the aromatic base of vegetables that are common to plenty of other Cajun and Creole dishes. There are also the various meats, sausages, and seafoods that might make their way into the pot, depending on the recipe. And the thickeners, okra, and filé powder—all of which you can find in this recipe.
Shrimp ÉtoufféeSerious Eats / Qi AiÉtouffée is the French word for "smothered," and what it really describes is a Cajun and Creole cooking method in which a protein like shrimp is cooked on the stovetop in a thick, roux-based sauce. It's a method that's also used for crawfish, chicken, and more, but we especially love it in this recipe.
Creole-Style Red Jambalaya With Chicken, Sausage, and ShrimpSerious Eats / Jen CauseyThis New Orleans classic is loaded with meat, seafood, and tomatoes. We like to bake the dish in the oven to prevent the rice from scorching and eliminate the need to stir midway through cooking.
Dirty RiceSerious Eats / Jillian AtkinsonDirty rice, which sometimes goes by “rice dressing” or “Cajun rice,” is a rice dish typically made with the “Holy Trinity” of onions, bell peppers, and celery, a hefty amount of ground meat and chicken giblets, and a heavy sprinkling of Creole seasonings, like cayenne, sage, and paprika.
Skillet Potatoes With Cajun Blackening Spices and Buttermilk-Herb SauceSerious Eats / Morgan EisenbergPotatoes don't have to be a boring side dish. They've got serious star power, and these Cajun-spiced baby potatoes—first boiled until creamy, then crisped in a skillet, and finally topped with a cooling buttermilk-herb dressing—prove it.
Grilled Cajun Chicken WingsSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergThese seasoned wings are grilled over indirect heat until blistered and crunchy, then tossed in a simple sauce of butter, Louisiana-style hot sauce, and Worcestershire.
Cajun-Style Smoked TurkeySerious Eats / Joshua BouselA show-stopping centerpiece and a creative way to get a bird on the table for any festive meal, this whole turkey is injected with flavor and rubbed all over with spicy (but not too spicy) Cajun seasoning.
Cajun Burgers With Spicy RémouladeSerious Eats / Morgan EisenbergInstead of cooking up plain beef burgers all season, throw in some smoky Cajun andouille sausage with your hand-ground beef chuck to create patties that ooze with flavor. Replace the typical burger topping trio (lettuce, onion, and tomato) with the NOLA trinity (bell pepper, onion, and celery). Top it all off with spicy rémoulade and blue cheese, and don't look back.
Cajun-Spiced Spatchcocked TurkeySerious Eats / Vicky WasikTaking a page out of the Louisiana playbook, this turkey is rubbed all over with a fragrant, lightly spicy mix that includes paprika, cayenne pepper, coriander seed, cumin, black pepper, onion and garlic powders, and both dried oregano and dried thyme. The result is a rich, deeply flavored bird with a gorgeous rust-colored skin. It's different, yet recognizably all-American in the best sort of way.
Cajun-Spiced Barbecue RibsSerious Eats / Joshua BouselIn contrast to traditional barbecue ribs, where the rub is usually a balance of sweet and spicy, Cajun spice blend—which we use in this recipe—brings more herbal and earthy notes, with a slight kick of heat. The meat comes out smoky, moist, and with all the right pull-off-the-bone tenderness.
Hearty One-Pot Black-Eyed Pea Stew With Kale and AndouilleSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThis stew—made with smoky andouille sausage and pork belly with tender beans and braised kale in a spicy broth—is the kind of dish that can get you through a winter without ever having to eat anything else.
Quicker Chicken and Okra GumboSerious Eats / Yvonne RupertiTo make a gumbo a little faster, try cooking roux in the microwave until it achieves a deep peanut butter or chocolatey brown color. Meanwhile, sauté the vegetables, add beer and chicken stock to deepen the gumbo's flavor, okra to help thicken it, and smoky paprika to mimic the smoky flavor of andouille.
Serious Eats / Morgan Glaze HuntEven on the hottest days of summer, you’ll find me in my kitchen with the oven on, dreaming up ways to turn my weekly farmers market hall into baked delights. One of my favorite ways to celebrate that haul is turning my favorite stone fruit—peaches—into this sumptuous upside down cake. This topsy-turvy cake may look fancy, but it’s simple enough that even an inexperienced baker can nail its perfect flipped presentation.
The process of making any upside down cake, including this one, is fairly simple: The fruit goes in the bottom of the cake pan along with melted butter and sugar, then cake batter is poured on top. After baking, you turn the pan over to reveal a gorgeous cake with golden-brown caramelized edges and juicy peaches above a sturdy but tender cake. It’s peach perfection.
But to ensure that the cake is flavorful and releases from the pan easily in one-fell swoop, there are a few techniques to get right. We asked recipe developer Marianne Williams to methodically flip cake after cake until she perfected the process. Here’s what we learned about how to bake a perfect peach upside down cake that's sure to be a-peach-iated by everyone who eats it.
Tips for Perfecting a Peach Upside Down CakeStart with fresh or frozen peaches. Yes, the old adage rings true here, “fresh is best.” But fresh isn’t always possible. Where I live in New England our peach season is brief—maybe six weeks, tops. When fresh peaches are available, they are my go-to with this cake. The best fresh peaches for baking are ripe but still a little firm—the fruit should have a little give but shouldn't bruise when gently pressed. If the peaches are too ripe they will turn mushy and fall apart once baked and flipped out of the pan. Also avoid underripe peaches, which tend to lack the flavor development and sweetness of ripe ones, which can lead to a bland cake. (For more information on peach storage and ripening, you can read our guide on how to ripen peaches.)
When you don't have fresh, in-season peaches on hand but still want a sublime peach cake, we recommend using frozen peach slices. We can confirm through rounds of testing that this cake is still incredibly delicious and will have the same impressive presentation when made with frozen peaches. Remember that frozen peaches are frozen at their peak of ripeness, which helps almost guarantee consistent quality. If using frozen peaches, make sure to look for slices that are about 3/4-inch thick and avoid chopped peaches, which may overcook and turn mushy when baked. To avoid excess moisture that can make the cake soggy, be sure to thaw, drain, and pat the peaches dry with paper towels thoroughly before adding them to the pan.
Skip the stand mixer and keep it simple with a hand-whisked batter. No need to pull out a stand mixer or food processor. In our testing, we found that hand-whisking was not only more practical, but it also minimized the risk of over-aerating the batter, which would lighten and tenderize the cake too much. When a cake batter is made in a stand mixer, the process involves creaming and lightening butter with sugar before vigorously whipping the batter. The goal of this is to incorporate as much air as possible to help lighten and tenderize the cake. This is great if your goal is a delicate, fluffy cake, but here we needed a sturdier cake that can support the peach topping and hold together once flipped. So, put your arm muscles to work and get whisking.
Build flavor with brown butter and cardamom. Whisking simple melted butter into our cake batter worked perfectly well in our tests, but we found that taking just a few minutes to brown the butter first produced a richer, nuttier flavor that complemented the sweet peaches. A hint of cardamom brought a subtle warmth to the cake, which added depth of flavor. When browning the butter, make sure to swirl the pan constantly to avoid burning the milk solids as they cook. Once browned, quickly transfer the butter to a bowl. If left in the skillet too long, the browned milk solids may overcook and turn bitter.
Cool the cake briefly before flipping it. Cooling the cake for about 15 minutes and then inverting it while it's still warm guarantees an easy release. If you’re not 100% confident with your cake-flipping skills, you can place a parchment round in the bottom of the cake pan to further insure an easy release before layering ingredients in. Just note that using a parchment round will minimize the caramelization around the bottom edges of the peaches. Our final advice for making sure the peaches all release from the pan once flipped is to just be confident with your flip. Flip the cake in one swift, steady motion. If a few peaches remain stuck to the pan that is totally fine—just use a fork to gently lift and rearrange them on top of the cake and no one will even know.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350°F (175℃). Spray inside of a 9-inch round metal cake pan or cast-iron skillet with cooking spray; set aside. In a small saucepan, melt 10 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Continue to cook, stirring and swirling skillet constantly with rubber spatula, until butter is golden brown and has a nutty aroma, 3 to 8 minutes. Pour the brown butter into a large heatproof bowl; set aside. In the now empty saucepan, add the remaining 3 tablespoons butter and melt over medium heat. Once melted, add brown sugar and cook, stirring often, until sugar is melted and starts to bubble, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour the mixture into the prepared cake pan or skillet, and spread into an even layer to cover the bottom of the pan.
Serious Eats / Morgan Glaze HuntPat peach slices dry with paper towels. Starting around the outside edges of the cake pan, arrange peach slices flat side down, over brown sugar mixture in tight concentric circles, with concave sides of peach slices facing in. Fill in any gaps with remaining small peach slices; set aside.
Serious Eats / Morgan Glaze HuntWhisk the granulated sugar into the reserved brown butter in bowl until smooth. Add eggs and whisk until incorporated.
Serious Eats / Morgan Glaze HuntIn a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, salt, and cardamom. Add half of the flour mixture to the egg mixture, and fold until just combined. Add buttermilk, and stir until combined. Add remaining flour mixture, and fold until just combined. Pour batter over peaches in the prepared cake pan, and spread into an even layer to completely cover peaches.
Serious Eats / Morgan Glaze HuntBake until cake is deep golden brown and a wooden toothpick inserted into the center of cake comes out mostly clean, 40 to 50 minutes. Let cool slightly on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Place a serving plate over the cake, and carefully invert cake onto the plate. (If any peaches stick to pan, remove and position on top of the cake). Let cake cool for at least 30 minutes. Slice and serve warm or at room temperature with whipped cream and a sprinkle of cardamom, if desired.
Serious Eats / Morgan Glaze HuntSpecial Equipment9-inch round metal cake pan or cast-iron skillet
Make-Ahead and StorageCover and store at room temperature for up to three days.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSome dishes evolve over eons, so gradually that it’s impossible to pinpoint when or where they came into being. Tacos gobernador—tacos that are filled with shrimp stew and cheese before being folded and griddled until crispy on the outside and warm and melty on the inside—is not one of those dishes. It was created—or at least named—in 1987 in Mazatlán, Sinaloa. According to Sinaloan sociologist Arturo Santamaría Gómez, the recipe came about after the chef at Los Arcos, a high-end chain of Sinaloan restaurants, decided to prepare something special to welcome the new governor, Francisco Labastida, to his restaurant.
The result was tacos gobernador. The crispy, cheesy shrimp tacos were a hit, and Los Arcos (and nearly every other seafood restaurant in the city) still offers them to this day. Since its creation, this popular dish has spread through northwest Mexico to Sonora, Baja California, and beyond.
The base of tacos gobernador is stewed shrimp, prepared with a ranchera-style salsa—a simple preparation of onion, tomato, and chile, the essential trio that's the base of much Mexican cooking. The original tacos gobernador were cooked directly on an outdoor grill. The tortilla shell would turn crisp and crunchy from drying out over the high dry heat of the grill’s flames. Nowadays the tacos are just as often griddled on the stovetop, which can result in a soft and overly oily tortilla if not cooked correctly. While that’s not necessarily a bad thing, I made sure my recipe captures the cracker-crisp style of the original grilled tacos gobernador, but with the convenience of griddling indoors in a skillet. Here’s how to cook tacos gobernador with the winning combination of a crunchy exterior with a melty, cheesy filling.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoTips for Cooking Satisfyingly Crisp Sinaloan Shrimp TacosPrep the shrimp properly. You can use any size shrimp in this recipe, but it’s important the shrimp pieces are around one-inch in size. Anything larger and the tacos become cumbersome to eat, and smaller pieces of shrimp tend to dry out and overcook when griddled.
I prefer to use small or extra-small shrimp that are about one-inch in size, which require less prep since they can be left whole. But larger shrimp are a great option as well—just make sure to roughly chop them. Whatever size shrimp you select, just remember that shrimp cook quickly and should be removed from the heat as soon as they begin to turn pink and opaque.
Before cooking, the shrimp should be peeled and optionally deveined. I tried the recipe with and without the vein and, honestly, did not notice a significant difference. I always devein shrimp for ceviche or aguachile to avoid hints of odd flavors or textures. But there's so much flavor from the thick tomato-based sauce that I didn’t register the difference between deveined or not. It’s a matter of personal preference—there’s no difference in hygiene or food safety—so it’s your call!
Create a flavorful sauce for cooking the shrimp. The first step is preparing a salsa ranchera for the shrimp. In Mexican cuisine, salsa ranchera is a general term, referring to a sauce with cooked (often grilled or griddle-blackened) tomatoes. I started out keeping the tomato-based sauce very simple, with just tomato, onion, chile, a little garlic, salt, and pepper, but I found it needed more flavor. Adding more garlic and a heaping handful of cilantro instantly intensified the sauce’s flavor. Reducing the sauce until thickened for about 10 minutes before adding the shrimp is critical to ensure the shrimp filling is saucy without being too soupy, since an overly liquidy shrimp filling would turn the tacos soggy.
Start with warmed tortillas and don’t overfill the tacos. To assemble the tacos, it’s key to first warm your tortillas on a griddle, a heavy skillet ,or (if you’ve got one) a comal—a flat, round cast-iron plate used in Mexican cooking. This ensures they will be pliable and won’t tear when filled and folded over. A skim of mayonnaise is the “glue” that anchors the layer of grated cheese and shrimp filling in place once the tortillas are folded and griddled. The layer of cheese should cover the tortilla evenly, but make sure it’s not too thick to avoid it spilling out of the taco when it melts.
Avoid adding too much sauce to each taco. When adding spoonfuls of the stewed shrimp to each taco, I recommend draining some of the sauce from the shrimp by leaning a spoonful of it against the side of the skillet to let excess liquid drain back into the skillet. I initially prepared it with too much sauce, aiming for a saucy-on-the-inside, crispy-on-the-outside result. But the extra sauce prevented the taco from crisping up properly. Turns out it wasn’t necessary or helpful; and without it, the filling was still juicy and flavorful.
Crank up the heat. After filling the tacos, turn up the heat on your pan. Toasting the tacos takes about five minutes of watching and turning the tacos as needed to avoid burning. The preparation and time spent is well worth it once you bite into the crunchy shell and through the cheesy shrimp inside.
Serve immediately with your favorite hot sauce. I like it with a fresh serrano salsa, but any hot sauce would work. In restaurants in Sinaloa, they usually offer five or more options, including Valentina, Salsa Huichol, and local brands with red, green, and habanero chiles. A squeeze of lime juice or a sprinkle of fresh cilantro are the perfect finish.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFor the stewed shrimp: In a 12-inch stainless-steel skillet, melt butter over medium-high heat. Once melted, add onion and poblano and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoAdd diced tomato, tomato purée, and salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes are cooked down until sauce is thickened and leaves a trail when a spatula is pulled across the bottom of the skillet, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the cilantro and season with pepper to taste.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoStir in peeled shrimp and cook, stirring occasionally, until shrimp is pink and opaque, 3 to 5 minutes, Season with salt to taste and set aside.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoTo assemble the tacos: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200℉. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet; set aside. In a lightly oiled 12-inch nonstick or cast iron skillet or griddle, warm the tortillas in batches over medium heat, flipping occasionally, until the tortillas are soft and pliable. Stack the tortillas, and wrap in a clean kitchen towel to keep warm, removing 4 at a time to assemble the tacos.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoWorking with 4 tortillas at a time, place flat on a work surface and spread each with a thin layer of mayonnaise, about 1/2 teaspoon each. Top the mayonnaise with about 2 tablespoons grated cheese per tortilla, covering the entire tortilla. Spread a large spoonful (about 1/4 cup) of stewed shrimp over half of each tortilla. Using a metal spatula, fold the tortilla in half over the shrimp and press to close.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoUsing a paper towel or pastry brush, brush 1 teaspoon oil over the surface of the now-empty griddle or skillet. Arrange the 4 prepared tacos in skillet and place over medium-high heat and cook until cheese is melted and tacos are crisp and spotty golden brown on the bottom side, 2 to 5 minutes. Using tongs and thin spatula, carefully flip tacos. Continue to cook until golden and crisp on the second side, 2 to 3 minutes, adjusting heat as necessary.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoRemove skillet from heat and transfer tacos to the prepared wire rack and hold warm in the oven. Repeat assembling, cooking, and holding the tacos warm in batches of 4 at a time. Once all are cooked, serve tacos immediately, garnished with fresh chopped cilantro and lime if desired and accompanied by your favorite hot sauce.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSpecial Equipment12-inch stainless-steel skillet, 12-inch nonstick or cast iron skillet or griddle
NotesAny tomato works, but I recommend meatier Roma or saladette tomatoes for a salsa with more body.
Any size shrimp can be used in this recipe. I prefer to use small or extra small shrimp left whole, but if using medium, large, or larger shrimp, chopping the shrimp into bite-size pieces is important for easier eating.
Manchego, asadero, and Chihuahua cheeses are all commonly used in Sinaloa. Out of those three, I prefer manchego, a mild sheep’s milk cheese—it has a little bit of a sharp edge that works really well with the shrimp. If none of the three recommended cheeses are available, I recommend Gouda or Monterrey Jack because they're very similar to queso Chihuahua and widely available in the US.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe stewed shrimp can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Gently reheat in a skillet before assembling the tacos.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezGrowing up in Ohio, I never had the good fortune to try a boli―a large Mexican ice pop encased in a clear plastic bag—when I was a kid. For me, cold treats came in a pint at the grocery store or from a Dairy Queen. But for my partner, who is Mexican, Dairy Queen and similar fast food chains that peddled frozen desserts were something special. When he would ask for American soft-serve, his parents gave him a boli: a small let-down at the time, but now a nostalgic reminder of his childhood.
Where we now live in steamy Mazatlán, Sinaloa, frozen treats are plentiful: there’s traditional nieve de garrafa, hand-churned ice creams and sorbets with flavors like leche quemada (cooked milk), passionfruit, and sweet corn; paletas (popsicles); and bolis, creamy milk- or fruity water-based ice pops frozen inside neat plastic bags. This recipe is for one of my favorite milk bolis (also known as bolis de leche), key lime pie. It’s tangy, creamy, and sweet, and tastes just like the classic pie.
Making the bolis is relatively straightforward: I process whole milk, sweetened condensed milk, cream cheese, and sugar in a blender. The condensed milk helps produce that classic key lime pie flavor, while the addition of whole milk and cream cheese increases the milk fat content of the mixture, which inhibits the formation of ice crystals and keeps the texture smooth and soft. For the limes, I tested with both key limes and Persian limes and found that, in terms of flavor, they're not that different. My hypothesis is that the frozen boli is so cold that the slight flavor difference and the variation in acidity isn't that noticeable. I suggest you use whatever is available to you that’s of good quality. Just make sure to dial back the amount of zest if you’re using Persian limes so that it doesn’t overwhelm the other flavors.
One of the most alluring aspects of bolis is the thought and creativity that some people put into the experience of eating them. For ones flavored with jocote (a small, acidic fruit with a plum-like flavor, sometimes known as ciruela), you might find a stone with some of the tart fruit still attached at the bottom of your boli, perfect for chasing the sweetness. A mango boli may have a swirl of spicy red chamoy sauce that you can mix with the fruit or enjoy as a burst of intensity at the end. Then, there are milk bolis that reveal pieces of cookies or Gansitos, a chocolate-dipped snack cake, as you eat them.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor this recipe, I tried to incorporate some interesting textural elements. My early attempts to incorporate small segments of key lime or candied lime slices fell flat: the former were too intense and the latter were too large and tough to chew. Instead, I settled on incorporating galletas Marías (crisp vanilla cookies that can be found in Latin markets), broken into various sizes, and lime zest. To get the cookie’s flavor into the boli, I blend a few cookies at the end, along with the zest. Then, for larger cookie chunks and more texture, I like to add broken up galletas Marías directly to each boli bag. The result is an ice cream-like treat with pockets of tender, cream-soaked cookies.
When it’s time to freeze the bolis, you’ll need plastic boli bags. Searching for “boli bags” or “ice pop bags” will turn up a number of options you can order online, but it’s worth checking your local Latin supermarket first. I used 2 3/4- by 10-inch bags, which is a standard boli size. Once you have the bags, then comes the tricky part: getting the viscous mixture into a flimsy plastic bag. The method that works best for me is to prop the boli bag up in a cup, hold the mouth of the bag open with one hand, and very slowly pour in the mixture with the other hand. The bag will settle and move slightly as it fills up, and pouring slowly means you can stop the flow if the bag falls over or closes iin on itself. Fill each bag up about halfway, then gently mush the bottom of the bag around so that the larger cookie chunks incorporate into the mix and aren’t left dry at the bottom, pinch the bag close at the fill level to get the air out, and tie a quick overhand knot to seal it off.
Once your bolis are frozen, bite or cut off a corner of a boli bag and dig in. You might have to gently bite through the bag to extract the first bits of the boli, but as it softens, you can start to squeeze it out of the bag. If you’re new to bolis, it'll take a little experimentation, but you'll figure it out.
In a countertop blender, process whole milk, condensed milk, cream cheese, sugar, vanilla, and salt until smooth, about 15 seconds. Add lime juice and immediately blend until thoroughly combined, about 10 seconds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd zest and 4 cookies (24g; see note), and pulse to incorporate zest and break cookies up into large crumbs, about 2 1-second pulses.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing your hands, break up 3 cookies (18g) into large pieces and add to one boli bag. Slowly pour in key lime mixture until the bag is about half full (roughly 4 ounces; 115g), then gently squeeze the bottom of the bag to wet the cookies. Pinch the top of the bag close and tie it off with a knot (make sure to leave space between the mixture and the knot as the mixture will expand as it freezes). Repeat with remaining key lime pie mixture and cookies.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFreeze until solid, at least 4 hours. To serve, trim one corner from the bottom of the bag and enjoy immediately.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentBlender, 3- by 10-inch bolis bags
NotesThe key lime mixture can also be frozen in popsicle molds and will yield approximately 14 3-ounce popsicles (you can also make a half recipe to yield less popsicles). To freeze in a popsicle mold, break up cookies into large pieces and add to molds (depending on the size of your molds, I’d recommend reducing the amount of cookies used). Divide key lime mixture evenly between molds, then use a skewer or cake tester to combine mixture with cookies. Freeze until solid, at least 4 hours. To unmold, follow your popsicle mold's instructions.
If you’re not able to find good-quality key limes, Persian limes work just fine. Persian limes have a bit more punch than fresh key limes, so dial the zest back to about 1 packed teaspoon (just under half a Persian lime). It will take about four Persian limes to yield a 1/2 cup of juice.
Galletas Marías are crisp, basic vanilla cookies that can be found in many Latin supermarkets. If you can’t get your hands on them, any crisp vanilla cookie (like vanilla wafers) will work; just be sure to substitute by equal weight. I have a suspicion that substituting graham crackers would work and might incidentally transport me back to my childhood—I’ve always loved graham cracker crumb crusts. But for the purposes of this recipe, I stuck with the tried-and-true galleta María for a more traditional boli flavor profile.
Make-Ahead and StorageKey lime pie bolis can be kept frozen for up to 1 month.
SeriousEatsOver the years of testing kitchen equipment, Breville has won top spots in quite a few of our reviews. The brand’s appliances, including espresso machines and air fryer ovens, are built for performance and longevity. After using Breville appliances in the test kitchen and at home for years, we can say with confidence that Breville products are worth the investment. With that in mind,we’re always excited to see our top Breville picks on sale. Right now, you can grab our favorite air fryer toaster oven and one of our favorite espresso machines on rare sale for up to 30% off.
- The Best Air Fryer Toaster Oven: Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer Pro
- A Great Toaster Oven: Breville Smart Oven
- A Great Entry-Level Espresso Machine with a Built-in Grinder: Breville Barista Express Espresso Machine
- The Best Touchscreen Espresso Machine: Breville Barista Touch Espresso Machine
- The Best Immersion Circulator: Breville Joule Turbo Sous Vide
- The Best 16-Cup Food Processor: Breville Sous Chef Pro Food Processor
- The Quietest Blender: Breville Super Q Blender
Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer ProAmazonThe Breville smart oven air fryer pro out-fried the competition during our tests, producing crunchy French fries and crispy chicken wings. It’s also easy to navigate, with clear buttons and knobs for adjusting times and heat settings. Its larger capacity also easily fits whole chickens and frozen pizzas. And, right now, it’s 25% off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonBreville Smart OvenAmazonThe only difference between the Breville Smart Oven and our top toaster oven pick, the Breville Smart Oven Pro, is that the Pro has an internal light. Otherwise, performance was nearly identical between the two toaster ovens during our tests, with the Breville Smart Oven delivering golden slices of toast and evenly cooked pot pie. If you don’t care about a light, it’s on sale for 20% off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonBreville Barista Express Espresso MachineAmazonWhen we tested all of Breville’s espresso machines, we found the Breville Barista Express espresso machine was a great entry-level machine with a built-in grinder. It’s easy to use, features the same PID temperature control as other Breville machines, and its grinder has 16 different settings so you can home in on your perfect brew. It’s also 27% off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonBreville Barista Touch Espresso MachineAmazonThe Barista Touch espresso machine has a built-in grinder that boasts upgraded burrs from Baratza. Its touchscreen system also walks you through each step of the espresso process to achieve even better results. It’s a great deal at $200 off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonBreville Joule Turbo Sous VideAmazonThe now-20% off Breville Joule is lightweight, compact, accurate, and fast—what more could you ask for in a sous vide machine? During our tests, this model quietly heated up cold water in just 22 minutes. Plus, we liked its magnetic base that lets you stand it up in a stainless steel or enameled cast iron pot.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreBreville Sous Chef Pro Food ProcessorAmazonOne of the quietest food processors we tested, the Breville Sous Chef offers a generous 16-cup capacity, great attachments (like an adjustable slicing blade), 24 settings, and a powerful motor that excels at chopping consistently. Plus, it’s on sale for nearly 30% off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreBreville Super Q BlenderAmazonThe Vitamix 5200 will always be our all-time favorite blender, but the Breville Super Q impressed us with its quiet motor. Its five presets and 12 variable speeds made quick work of emulsifying soups, crushing ice, and blending smoothies. It also has an LCD screen that’s clear and easy to read. You can get one for $50 off.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyFAQsWhen is Prime Day 2024?Amazon announced that Prime Day will be on July 16 and 17 (Tuesday and Wednesday).
Do I need a Prime membership to get these Breville deals?While you don’t need a Prime membership to grab these Breville appliances on sale, you’ll need one if you want to access other exclusive member-only deals on Prime Day. You can sign up for a 30-day free trial here.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer at Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * An has been reviewing kitchen equipment for nearly two years.
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoI can safely say that every Chilean has a memory with completos, our beloved loaded hot dogs that are found throughout the country. And as a child, I was lucky because my family owned the only restaurant in our little Chilean town of Arauco that specialized in sandwiches and completos. While my classmates would enjoy these loaded hot dogs as an occasional celebratory treat, my family ate them every Sunday night. I remember my mom arriving home with a greasy cardboard box full of still warm, freshly made completos; I recall the joy of my teenage brothers; the anxious passing of the many condiments around the table; my dad pouring a cold beer. It was my definition of a happy childhood.
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoCompletos, unlike many other traditional Chilean dishes such as sopaipillas and pantrucas, have a traceable origin story. In the 1920s, Chilean restaurateur Eduardo Bahamondes tried American hot dogs on a trip to New York and dreamed up a business opportunity with his first bite. His restaurant Donde Bahamondes, located in Santiago’s main square, is famous for its hot dogs and remains a great place to eat completos, with happy eaters frequenting the shop at all hours.
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoBesides being sold in street carts and restaurants, completos are a mandatory part of Chilean celebrations and special family occasions. The popular way to enjoy them is during our local version of teatime, called once. Once is similar to English-style afternoon tea time, but it is served later and often it replaces dinner. Once usually includes bread, toppings and pastries or cake, and for special celebrations once also includes completos: each member of the family will help by mashing avocados, dicing tomatoes, or making the mayonnaise, until a colorful assortment of toppings and condiments fills the table. Sauerkraut, salsa Americana (finely chopped vinegar pickled veggies, similar to giardiniera), mustard, hot sauce and ketchup are served as well. Lastly, completo buns—bought in a local Chilean bakery—are carefully toasted in a Chilean stovetop tostador and vienesa sausages are boiled, steamed or pan fried. Hot tea (or sometimes beer) is served and everyone is left to top their own hot dog as they see fit. The two most popular completos topping combinations are known as completos Italianos and completos completos (yes I recognize that name is a bit confusing). I’ve written these combinations as options in the recipe steps below, but feel free to include any combination of these listed toppings.
This experience is my epitome of family life in Chile, and a moment I missed deeply when I lived abroad in the US. My time without completos is what inspired me to create my own recipe, one that even includes making the buns from scratch. Here are my tips for a great Chilean hot dog experience at home.
Tips for an Authentic Completos ExperienceFor the best completos, bake the buns from scratch. The classic completo buns are nothing like standard US hot dog buns. Our Chilean hot dog buns are larger, sturdier, and not as sweet as their American counterparts. The bulkier long bun is designed to accommodate the large amount of toppings that are a staple on every completos. The dense crumb structure in these homemade buns is perfect for absorbing tomato juices and the heaps of avocado and mayo that completos usually carry. And the crust, when reheated or toasted, will form a thin, crunchy layer that makes every bite even more enjoyable. I firmly believe that for a true Chilean completos experience, the completo buns should be made from scratch, so I’ve included my recipe here. But if that is not possible, substitute with bakery-made 8-inch long hoagie rolls that have a similar, sturdy structure.
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoDon’t skimp on the mayo. Another thing that makes Chilean completos unique is the amount of mayo on them: what for us Chileans is the perfect amount of mayo on a hot dog might be an obscene amount of mayo for many. As I stated in the Santiago episode of “Somebody feed Phil” (season six on Netflix), we consider the mayo to be a mandatory core ingredient, not just an optional condiment. An average completo should have about a quarter to a half cup of mayo per bun, at least! But I’ll admit, this is a bit excessive for my own taste. When I order them out, I always ask for “poco mayo maestro”, to make the cook reduce the amount.
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoI recommend using Kenji’s two minutes mayo, it's an approachable recipe with a silky texture and rich flavor that is perfect for completos. If you're not up for making your own mayo, I find that Kraft mayo comes close to the texture and flavor of the mayo you’d find in Chilean fuente de soda shops, where completos are often served. The brand is a local favorite for that reason.
Load up on the hot dogs. In Chile we use “vienesas” or wieners, a mild and sometimes slightly smoky hot dog sausage that is usually boiled, steamed or pan fried. Standard US brand hot dogs, such as Hebrew National or Nathan’s will work well, and if you have a local favorite, by all means use that. I recommend using 1 1/2 hot dogs to fill out each completo. A standard 6-inch long hot dog is too short on its own to fill out the longer bun, and a great completos should contain meat in every bite.
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoAssemble with purpose. The placement of the diced tomatoes—over or under other toppings—has lately become a controversial topic in Chile. According to Javier Rodríguez expert completo journalist and owner of the completo IG account @soycompletero, the division started because Dominó, a popular completo restaurant chain, serves their hot dogs with tomatoes on top. Because of their huge following, many people grew up believing completos should be assembled like that. But other Chileans, myself included, prefer adding tomatoes under the other toppings. This allows the tomato juice to drip into and moisten the bun. But, if you can't stand the idea of a soggy bun, do as many Chileans do and “wet proof” the bread with a layer of avocado (or a bit of mayo) and then pile on the other ingredients.
Once your preferred toppings of tomatoes, sauerkraut, salsa Americana, and and avocado are loaded on, spoon a generous smear of mayo, slowly, ceremoniously down the length of the hot dog to seal and lightly secure everything in place. The mayo also creates a clean canvas for a final squeeze of mustard, hot sauce, or ketchup. The end result is a colorful and fully loaded Chilean completos that is a work of art.
For the Completo Buns: (If using store bought hoagie buns, skip to step 9) In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together flour, yeast, and salt. In a 4-cup liquid measuring cup or large bowl, whisk water, milk, egg, and sugar until sugar is dissolved.
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoUsing a dough hook on low speed, slowly drizzle water mixture into flour mixture and mix, scraping down bowl as needed, until cohesive dough forms and no dry flour remains, about 2 minutes. With mixer running, add butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, waiting until the butter is fully incorporated into the dough before adding the next tablespoon, until all butter is fully incorporated, about 3 minutes. Increase mixer speed to medium and knead for 8 minutes, until dough is smooth and elastic and clears sides of bowl but still sticks to the bottom.
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoTransfer dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead by hand to form a smooth round ball, about 1 minute. In a lightly greased large bowl, place the dough seam side down, cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap or a large plate, and let rise at room temperature, 68 to 74℉ (20 to 23 ℃), until the dough is doubled in size, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoLine 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper; set aside. Press down on dough to deflate and transfer the dough to a clean work surface. Using a bench scraper or sharp knife, divide dough in 6 equal pieces (about 145g each). Shape each piece into a smooth ball and set aside on the counter. Cover loosely with greased plastic wrap or a kitchen towel.
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoWorking with one dough ball at a time, use your hands to flatten ball into a 5- x 4-inch rectangle. Fold the upper third of the dough toward the center. Fold the lower third of the dough to the center, mimicking an envelope fold, and lightly pinch the edges of both folded pieces together and press gently to seal the center seam where the folds meet. Then press the new seam into the bun, so it almost disappears.
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoRoll the bun over, seamside down, and using the palms of your hands, gently roll the bun into a 7 ½ inch log. Repeat with the remaining dough balls, recovering the unused pieces with the greased wrap or kitchen towel. Once all are shaped, using your hands, roll each log again so they each are now 8 ½ inches long and even thickness from end to end.
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoAdjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 375℉(190℃). Transfer 4 buns to one prepared baking sheet seam-side down, and 2 to the other sheet; Set the puns side by side in pairs with 1 inch of space between each bun in the pair. Using a pastry brush, brush buns lightly with vegetable oil and cover loosely with a kitchen towel or greased plastic wrap and proof at room temperature until puffed, and are 9-inches in length, and dough springs back minimally when poked gently with your knuckle, 30 to 45 minutes.
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoUsing a pastry brush, brush proofed buns with the prepared egg wash. Bake buns until golden brown for about 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool.
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoFor steaming the hot dogs: Bring 1 1/2 cup water to boil in large saucepan over high heat. Place steamer basket over boiling water. Add hot dogs to basket, cover saucepan, and reduce heat to medium. Cook until hot dogs are heated through, 5 to 7 minutes.
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoFor assembly with the toppings: Slice each bun open lengthwise, leaving hinge attached. Transfer buns to a rimmed baking sheet and warm in the oven until just warmed through.
Fill each bun with 1 1/2 steamed or grilled hot dogs (the idea is to fill the whole length of the bun). Serve with the suggested toppings, letting each person assemble their own completos. (Serving suggestions below.)
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoFor completos Italianos: Top each hot dog with 3 to 5 tablespoons diced tomatoes, 3 tablespoons mashed avocado, and at least 2 tablespoons mayonnaise.
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoFor completos completos: Top each hot dog with 3 to 4 tablespoons sauerkraut and/or 2 to 3 tablespoons diced giardinera, 3 to 5 tablespoons diced tomatoes, and at least 2 tablespoons mayonnaise.
Serious Eats / Estudio ComoSpecial EquipmentStand mixer with paddle attachment (if making the buns), large saucepan, steamer basket
Make-Ahead and StorageBaked rolls can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days or wrapped individually and frozen for up to 2 months. Warm through before using.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineIn Nigeria, we don't have pantries. What one calls a pantry in Europe and North America, we call a "store," and no two are the same. Each home store is a melange of local, regional, and global ingredients. Some ingredients—palm oil, crayfish, fermented seasonings—speak volumes about all the ways Nigerians are similar despite our many different languages and cultures.
The store is where we house and preserve many of the ingredients that give us flavor and sustenance, and it's where you'll see a mix of influences, from local and regional exchanges to the deep-seated legacies of colonialism and the transatlantic slave trade. It is also where you'll find forms of personal expression, both large and small, like preserves, ferments, dried herbs, and more.
Nigerian meals tend to be made up of mixed plates of starches, soups/sauces, and proteins, and the store reflects that. There will likely be an abundance of starches in the form of grains, legumes, and flours; there are oils and fats like unrefined red palm oil, groundnut oil, and shea butter; there's a stunning array of greens used in meals—leafy, herby, in a range of colors, both fresh and dried; there's a plethora of spices, like grains of Selim, calabash nutmeg, and alligator pepper, as well as a range of spice blends; there are dried seafood products like "crayfish" and smoked fish, oysters, and periwinkles; and there are fermented seasonings and condiments, nuts, seeds, and gums.
There's a lot to explore and enjoy.
Fresh IngredientsWhile the store is typically stocked with shelf-stable goods ready to be turned into a meal or a snack at a moment's notice, a good store would be incomplete without a variety of fresh, seasonal vegetables and fruit, many of which should be familiar to cooks all over the world.
Roots, Tubers, and RhizomesSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineTubers and rhizomes like yams, sweet potatoes, regular potatoes, cocoyam (taro), ginger, garlic, and turmeric are frequently used in a wide variety of dishes.
Fresh FruitsSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineFresh fruits are eaten all year round, and there are a few fruits, like baobab, tamarind, dates, which are often used in their dried forms as well.
Bananas, pineapple, sugar cane, pawpaw, and mangoes are some of the most commonly eaten fruits. They are eaten out of hand and are rarely cooked. Fruits like tomatoes and plantains are, on the other hand, quite frequently cooked and essentially treated as vegetables.
VegetablesSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineTomatoes, (red) onions, and peppers—sweet and hot—are some of the most ubiquitous ingredients in our stores. Leafy vegetables, greens, and herbs like amaranth (callaloo), pumpkin greens, sweet potato greens, water leaf, and spinach are common, and are used fresh or dried.
Dried IngredientsThe store will also typically have a wide array of dried ingredients, everything from dried seafood and meat to dried grains and legumes, meals and flours, nuts, fruit and vegetables, as well as spices.
Dried SeafoodSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineThere are many kinds of dried fish used in Nigerian cuisine: (Scandinavian) stockfish; dried fish, called "dry fish" (catfish is popular); dried oysters; dried periwinkles and whelks; and last but certainly not the least, dried "crayfish." While we call them crayfish, they are actually pink and brown prawns completely unrelated to the North American crawfish—how that name emerged is still something of a mystery. Crayfish come in various sizes; they are often sun-dried, although sometimes they're smoked. The large ones are often used whole or broken, and the smaller ones are typically ground. I never cook Nigerian soups without ground crayfish—never ever. Crayfish is to Nigerian cuisine what fish sauce is to Thai: it brings that sweet fermented funk and seafood essence that many Nigerian pots would be lost without, from slow-cooked dishes like egusi soup to traditional rice dishes like native Jollof rice.
Other dried fish products, like large crayfish heads, catfish heads and bonga/shawa fish (bony freshwater shad, also eaten as a snack), are ground and used as a seasoning, much as we use crayfish.
Dried MeatsSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineThere are a number of dried meats, including kilishi, tinko, dried kpomo (a fresh version exists), that have long shelf lives and are eaten as snacks, and some of them are used in cooking. Although dried meats are mostly made from beef, you’ll also find smoked and dried game from animals like antelope and grass cutters.
Kilishi is a beef jerky snack from the north, but it's popular across the country. Thin sheets of lean beef, sliced by hand, are dunked in a wet spice paste made with nuts and sun- or oven-dried, after which they're finished by passing over an open fire. They are sold in small and large sheets, individually wrapped in paper or transparent bags and they can keep for six months or longer.
Tinko (chunks of beef) and dried kpomo (cow skin) are cooked, dried, and smoked. They are rehydrated in water or stock and used in soups and stews, like egusi.
Grains, Cereals, and LegumesSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineGrains, cereals, and legumes are the bedrock of the Nigerian store. Mostly dried, you’ll find them whole, cracked, ground, or milled into powder and flour. Rice, beans, corn, cassava, millet, guinea corn (sorghum) are steamed, made into doughs, fritters, and stirred into soups and sauces.
Nigerians love rice, from the homegrown Oryza glaberrima species often named after their growing locations—Abakaliki, Ekpoma, and Ofada rice (which is fermented during the processing)—to imported Oryza sativa species, particularly long-grain (converted) rice, as well as basmati and Thai jasmine. Rice and stew (a rice dish made with a specific tomato-based sauce), jollof rice, coconut rice, and Nigerian fried rice are pillars in Nigerian cuisine.
There are so many varieties of beans in Nigeria, with black-eyed beans and other cowpeas being the most common. You’ll find them simply cooked, stewed in red sauces, puréed into soups, and turned into pottage with corn, yams, plantains, and/or sweet potatoes.
There are many flours and meals made from cassava and garri is one of the most popular. This gluten-free flour comes in a range of colors, from cream to sunny yellow, and a variety of textures, just like cornmeal. I love its flexibility—dry and crunchy, you can sprinkle it over stewed beans or fill the hollow of a ripe avocado. The flavor? Sweet and sour—from mild to strong. "Soaked" with cold water, it makes a cereal-like snack which we enjoy in a variety of ways and with add-ins, like coconut (fresh or flaked), roasted peanuts, peanut crackers, and more. Some like it with salt, others with sugar, and still more with both. Hot, it gelatinizes to form a soft, sticky dough called eba, which is a classic complement to thick “soups” (stews). I love it as a replacement for breadcrumbs as it delivers unparalleled crunch.
Various types of millet, fonio, guinea corn, and corn are popular. The dried grains and kernels are steamed, boiled, popped, and cooked in soups and pottages. They are also processed into fermented starches that are sold as firm blocks or as powder, which are used to make breakfast gruels and porridges that are called pap, ogi, koko, or akamu (they're similar to Mexican atole). Served with milk and sugar, they are common accompaniments to akara, a kind of bean fritter, and moinmoin, a steamed “pudding” made from beans.
FlowersSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineZobo (hibiscus sabdariffa), which is also known as agua de Jamaica and red sorrel, among other names, is one of the most popular edible flowers in Nigeria. It comes in a variety of colors, from off-white, cream, and light brown to deep red-purple, and it's sold dried and used in a couple of ways.
The off-white, creamy, brown version is rehydrated and used in obe ishapa, a soup popular in the southwest that also features egusi seeds. The dark red version forms the base of a drink, often combined with dried ginger slices and whole cloves. To sweeten it naturally, some people cook it with pineapple juice and/or the fruit's flesh and skin, others add tamarind and sweeten it with sugar or honey. It's served both hot and cold.
Nuts and SeedsSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineNuts and seeds serve many purposes in Nigerian cuisine. They’re eaten alone as snacks, like boiled groundnuts (peanuts) and candied sesame seeds, but also incorporated into a variety of dishes.
Many soups are thickened with pastes from sesame seeds and groundnuts and with nut or seed powders, like the ground meal made from egusi, the seeds of the bitter melon. Egusi is sold in several different forms: whole, with their brittle, mustard-colored shells; shelled; and ground. Ground egusi is distinguished further in many markets as being ‘hand-’ or ‘machine-’ processed, where the ‘hand’ varieties are more expensive, a testament to the craft of shelling. Egusi is incorporated into seasoned stocks to make egusi soup, which is often finished with greens, both leafy and herby.
Fermented nuts and seeds are used as an umami-rich seasoning, similar to miso paste or Chinese black beans. They bring an intense savoriness along with distinctive flavors and aromas. Iru is a small-batch ferment of locust beans, used to season soups, stews, and other dishes. Available in markets, it comes as a soft paste, which readily dissolves in sauces, or as firm, distinct split beans. Other fermented seeds made from castor seeds, sesame seeds, soybeans, melon seeds, and more are common across the country.
Spices and SeasoningsSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineThere is a huge variety of herbs, spices, spice blends, alkaline salts, and stock/seasoning cubes used in Nigerian cooking. They fall into two key categories: traditional Nigerian seasoning, which includes yajin kuli, pepper soup spice, and banga spice, and imported seasonings, like "curry powder" and dried thyme. They deliver a whole spectrum of flavors from peppery to woodsy, floral, bitter, nutty, warm, and more. Used individually, or in specific blends, they are mostly incorporated into savory dishes, used as rubs for meats and fish, and added to rice dishes, soups, and stews.
Ground dry pepper is one of the most popular ingredients. Fine and coarse blends are ground from slim, dried red chiles with single or multiple varieties of hot red peppers, including cayenne, bird’s eye, as well as others. Think of it as our equivalent to black pepper: It brings heat to everything, and is used all the time, added to taste when seasoning eggs or broth. Even when fresh chiles are used in a dish, you’ll find us sprinkling a pinch of dry pepper over it. The closest substitute for it is cayenne pepper not "chili powder" which is composed of an assortment of spices.
The definitive taste of pepper soup spice is a tribute to the genius of the Niger-Deltans in the south of Nigeria who combine whole, toasted spices in specific ratios to tease out a complex blend that lends its name to Nigeria’s most popular broth. Some of the most common spices used are calabash nutmeg, uda (grains of selim), alligator pepper (grains of paradise), and uziza (African cubeb pepper). This soup works well with seafood, meat, and vegetables and is commonly served as a starter at Nigerian parties and on special occasions, although it's also often made at home.
Fats and OilsSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineThe Nigerian kitchen is full of plant and animal fats and oils, which are use for cooking but they're also incorporated into dips and spreads. Plant-based fats and oils come from palms, seeds, and nuts and include unrefined red palm oil, coconut oil, groundnut (peanut) oil, shea butter, atili (the African olive) oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, and a host of others. Palm oil is one of the most popular ones and there’s nothing like the rich, thick oil from the red-orange palm fruit of Elaeis guineensis, a native African palm—not to be confused with the highly industrialized palm (kernel) oil listed in practically every product across supermarket shelves and aisles in North America. Though you can approximate the color by steeping annatto seeds in vegetable oil, the smoky, vegetal, slightly fermented flavor is hard to replicate. This is the base of many pots of soup and stew eaten daily across Nigeria and in Nigerian homes across the diaspora.
Animal fats like man shanu and tallow are particularly popular in the pastoral north, where spoonfuls are commonly added to pots while cooking roots, tubers, and rice, from steamed white rice to Jollof. Man shanu, a creamy-light yellow fat, is a fermented and unchurned spread made from fresh cow milk with the consistency of soft butter. Tallow from beef and lamb is also commonly used.
Canned and Bagged IngredientsSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineMany preserved items are available in a variety of sizes and packaging, from tins and cans to sachets and cartons. It's very common to find tomato paste and a range of canned vegetables like sweetcorn, green peas, and baked beans in a store.
Though fresh milk and dairy products are common in the north, they aren’t as common down south, in the east, or west. Preserved milk—evaporated, condensed, and powdered—are used for cooking and baking as well as in drinks. Beverages like tea, instant coffee, and chocolate drink powders like Bournvita, Milo, Nesquik, and Ovaltine are popular and sometimes form half of a perfect bread meal, where slices or pieces of bread are dunked in cups and mugs of sweet, hot beverage.
Canned protein—fish like sardines, mackerel, and tuna, as well as products like corned beef—are popular, and they're turned into compound butters or pates and used as spreads for bread, sometimes with vegetables folded in. They are also added to fried and stewed eggs, sauces, and incorporated into rice dishes, as well as pottages made with yam, plantain, and potatoes.
SweetenersSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineWhite sugar and honey are the most common sweeteners, for everything from cups of tea to sweetening cereal and baking. Honey comes in a variety of colors and flavors, from dark, wildflower varieties to those with a fermented profile, which are often the product of bee hives that are close to palm trees.
Less common is delicious mazarkwaila, heavy, compact discs of brown sugar, cooked down from sugar cane juice, and processed in a similar manner to piloncillo or jaggery. In the north of Nigeria, where it's made, it's a popular addition to drinks and is also eaten as a snack, bits broken off and chewed or licked.
Where to Buy Nigerian IngredientsYou can find all of these ingredients in a variety of stores online and in African, Afro-Caribbean, Caribbean, and even in general grocery stores. So, when you get a chance, try out some Nigerian recipes with ingredients from our store.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThere are many excellent culinary uses for raw whole eggs, yolks, and whites, including homemade mayonnaise, Caesar dressing, meringue, and cocktails such as pisco sours and whiskey sours. But there are also some food safety concerns associated with consuming raw eggs, including potential exposure to Salmonella, which can cause stomach cramps, vomiting, diarrhea, fever, and—in rare cases—even death.
When you want to make a recipe that calls for raw eggs it's important to understand and mitigate the potential dangers, especially if you plan to serve the dish to anyone who is at greatest risk of becoming seriously ill from Salmonella (more on that below). At the very least, you may want to do as I do and shout, "This has raw eggs!" to anyone who's going to eat your potato salad that's dressed with a raw egg mayo.
One option for avoiding raw eggs is to buy pasteurized ones. As with other foods like milk, pasteurizing eggs involves heating them to a temperature that destroys pathogens, but does not actually cook them. The main problem is that pasteurized eggs that are still in the shell can be very hard to find at US grocery stores. (It's easier to find pasteurized egg whites in cartons than it is to find whole pasteurized eggs, in our experience.)
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikSo what about pasteurizing eggs at home using the precisely controlled temperatures of a sous vide water bath? We found a couple of studies that suggest that this can be an effective method of killing Salmonella, which was more than enough to convince food nerds like us to break out our immersion circulators and try it out while delving into the minutia of pasteurization science.
To learn about the potential safety issues with home egg pasteurization, I spoke with James E. Rogers, Ph.D., the director of food safety research and testing for Consumer Reports. (Rogers holds a Ph.D. in microbiology and immunology and described himself as a "food safety curmudgeon" when I previously interviewed him for another article about egg safety for EatingWell—he must wonder why I keep trying to convince him to let me eat raw eggs.) Finally, I put eggs that I pasteurized using a sous vide immersion circulator to the test by making mayonnaise with the yolks and meringue with the whites—would they work as well as raw in these essential applications?
Here's what I learned about the potential benefits and dangers of home-pasteurization, plus instructions on how to home pasteurize if you want to give it a try once you understand the process and its limitations.
The Potential Dangers of Eating Raw EggsThe biggest food safety risk associated with raw eggs is Salmonella, especially Salmonella enterica, specifically Salmonella enterica serovar enteritidis (SE). Salmonella can be present on the shells of eggs as well as in the egg whites and yolks. Cooking kills Salmonella, and while fully cooked eggs are the safest, even sunny side up eggs are likely safe. But if there is Salmonella present in raw eggs, people who consume them are at risk of contracting the foodborne illness salmonellosis, which, as mentioned above, can cause gastrointestinal distress, hospitalization, and even death.
The good news is that at the time of this article's publication (July, 2024), the CDC had no reports of active Salmonella outbreak investigations related to commercially distributed eggs in the US. Of course, that can change at any time. And while Salmonella enterica is the most common foodborne pathogen associated with eggs, there are other pathogens that have been linked to eggs, including Listeria, a pathogen that can cause illness and serious pregnancy complications, including miscarriage and stillbirth.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThe highest risk groups for contracting and becoming seriously ill from salmonellosis include those with weakened immune systems, adults age 65 and older, children under five, and pregnant people, according to the CDC and other sources. But if you're a healthy 68 year old with a passion for Caesar salads, are we going to tell you to never eat unpasteurized raw eggs? No, we are not, because we understand that people take calculated risks all the time and the occasional consumption of a raw egg is not at the top of the list of most dangerous things people regularly do. (The fact is leafy greens are linked to far more recalls and foodborne illnesses than eggs, so if it's a numbers game you're playing, you might as well skip that Caesar altogether.)
For legal reasons, though, we need to be very clear that experts and food safety authorities like Rogers and the CDC decidedly disagree with our more flexible attitude, and so the official guidance is to avoid raw eggs, especially among those in the defined high-risk groups. If you have any concerns at all, you should follow that official guidance.
For the rest of us, it's really a cost-benefit analysis. Like me and most of the Serious Eats staff, you might decide that the risks are worth the reward. Or, you might be like Rogers, and take a more "conservative" approach and choose to avoid raw eggs unless they've been commercially pasteurized.
Understanding the Science of Pasteurization: Assessing Risk by the NumbersThe thing about doing a food safety cost-benefit analysis is you need to understand the underlying data and logic before you can make any informed decisions of your own. So before we dive into at-home egg pasteurization and its potential benefits and limitations, we first need to learn how food-borne illness risks are assessed and mitigated by health and food authorities.
In the case of eggs, the goal is not necessarily to reduce the number of bacteria in a given egg to zero—which is often impossible without rendering the food inedible—but to reduce it to a level at which the risk of causing illness is tolerably low from a public-health standpoint. Because bacteria can number in the tens or hundreds of thousands (if not more) in a contaminated serving of food, the goal of pasteurization is to drive the number of bacteria down exponentially until safe levels are reached.
This exponential decrease in bacteria is expressed mathematically as a log reduction, in which each reduction represents a tenfold decrease in the number of surviving bacteria: In a 1-log reduction, one in ten bacteria will survive; in a 2-log reduction, one in 100 bacteria will survive; and in a 3-log reduction, one in 1,000 bacteria will survive. It continues in powers of ten from there.
According to USDA guidelines, a 5-log reduction is the standard for pasteurized eggs. This translates to a 100,000-fold decrease in bacterial colony forming units (CFUs), which can also be expressed as a 99.999% reduction. Wow, I can hear some of you thinking, a 99.999% reduction in nasty bacteria sounds pretty dang good to me! And based on the fact that a lot of very smart scientists came up with that guideline, you're probably right. But percentages can be deceptive, so let's look more closely at the raw numbers—it will help us to understand home pasteurization risks later.
First, it helps to know that even a single viable salmonella cell can cause infection. Just one! Sure, the risk is low—this study states that consuming a single viable cell of salmonella comes with a .25% probability of illness—but the risk is there. How common is it to encounter eggs contaminated with salmonella in the US? According to CDC estimates, only 1 in every 20,000 eggs in the US is. As you can see, the odds are in any one individual's favor, but multiplied across a large population of eager egg eaters (say that three times fast), and the risks of illness become more considerable. The CDC estimates that salmonella causes "about 1.35 million infections, 26,500 hospitalizations, and 420 deaths in the United States every year."
Next, let's factor in how much unwanted bacteria one is likely to find in a single contaminated egg. According to this study, the average number of CFUs varies heavily depending on many factors but is somewhere between 10,000 and 100,000 on the shell alone (not including the interior whites and yolk, which can also be infected, though to a lesser extent). Based on this, even at the higher end of the average range, the USDA guideline of a 5-log reduction would tend to get us down to a sole surviving viable bacterium.
What does that 5-log reduction via egg pasteurization translate to in terms of real-world infections? According to a 2005 USDA and FDA risk assessment, a 5-log reduction is enough to lower the total number of infections annually in the US from 130K to 19K. As you can see, it's not enough to get the risk of infection down to zero, but it's a considerable reduction with a clear public health benefit.
At this point, it's critical to point out that egg pasteurization doesn't happen in a vacuum. There are scores of variables that can complicate the picture. Things like storage temperatures before and after pasteurization will have a huge effect on these numbers—improper storage can pretty much undo any benefit created by pasteurization, which should be taken into account for all stages of egg handling, but also for storage of foods made with raw or pasteurized eggs. Meaning, just because you're using pasteurized eggs in an uncooked dish doesn't mean you can get sloppy with food handling and storage. One careless step like letting the food sit out at room temperature for too long and what had been a low-risk meal could grow into a mouthful of misery.
At-Home Sous Vide Egg Pasteurization 101I know you've had to read a lot to get to this point, but it's all going to be very useful in making a decision about whether you're comfortable attempting to pasteurize eggs at home or not.
If you search around, you are likely to find several different methods of at-home pasteurization, but the most reliable research and methods we found are focused specifically on sous vide pasteurization, which makes sense—pasteurization is largely about highly precise temperature control over extended periods of time, and that is exactly what the immersion circulators used for sous vide cooking do well. When submerged in a pot or other vessel of water, they can maintain a set temperature for extended periods of time while continuously circulating the heated water to minimize variations in temperature. This ability to hold a precise temperature over time makes them the most compelling tool for home pasteurization.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAs Kenji notes in his guide to sous vide chicken, the reduction in bacterial loads in food is a function of both temperature and time. With eggs, the key is to hold the eggs at the correct temperature for long enough for the heat to penetrate all the way to the center of the egg, since Salmonella and other pathogens can be present throughout the egg—not just on the shell, as is a common misconception.
What is the correct temperature for pasteurized eggs? Generally speaking, it's one that is hot enough that, given enough time, it can significantly lower the risk of pathogens but still cool enough that the egg retains its ability to function like a raw one in a recipe. We found more specific time and temperature guidelines in a couple different research papers. In "Immersion Heat Treatments for Inactivation of Salmonella Enteritidis With Intact Eggs," published in 1997 in the Journal of Applied Microbiology, they tested pasteurizing eggs for 50 to 57.5 minutes at a water temperature of 58°C (136.4°F) and within 65-75 min at 57°C (134.6°F), and found that at this range, "Six pooled strains of Salm. enteritidis (ca 3 x 10(8) cfu, inoculated near the centre of the yolk) were completely inactivated," leading the study authors to conclude, "Immersion-heated shell eggs could provide Salmonella-free ingredients for the preparation of a variety of minimally-cooked foods of interest to consumers and foodservice operators."
A second study, "Inactivation of Salmonella in Shell Eggs by Hot Water Immersion and Its Effect on Quality," published in 2016 in the Journal of Food Science, tested eggs at various times and temperatures and also looked at the quality of the eggs pasteurized through hot water immersion. They found that the strains of Salmonella they tested were reduced by 4.5 log at both hot water immersion treatments of 56.7°C (134.06°F) for 60 minutes and 55.6°C (132.08°F) for 100 minutes. A 4.5-log reduction translates to a 99.997% reduction in pathogens, or roughly three surviving viable bacteria per 100,000.
They also looked at the quality of eggs treated with heat immersion and found that while the yolks were largely unaffected, the whites were altered enough that they performed differently in whipping tests, taking much longer to whip. "In summary, the hot water immersion process inactivated heat resistant SE in shell eggs by 4.5 log, but also significantly affected several egg quality characteristics," the authors report.
Is Pasteurizing Eggs at Home Safe?So, phrases like "completely inactivated" and 99.997% reduction sound great, right? Well, not so fast, says Rogers. He has a number of concerns with home-pasteurization. For starters, while commercially pasteurized eggs have been subjected to rigorous standards to be sure the time, temperature, and method is the exact same every time, and a portion of the eggs are also tested after pasteurization to be sure the pathogens are dead, there are numerous points in the home-pasteurization process when things can go off the rails.
"You're expecting consumers to get that right every time—that their temperature is right, that their thermometer is accurate, that the sous vide machine readout is accurate," Rogers says. "The problem is that we know from studies that you could ask consumers, 'How many times did you wash your hands?' They'll say five and then if you look up the video it might have been one, right?" He says if you cut corners, cut down on time, or if your thermometer or immersion circulator is off by a couple of degrees, any Salmonella that's present could be passed along to the final dish and make you or your guests sick.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRogers says it's also important to take into account variables like how many eggs you're pasteurizing and the fact that the heat needs to penetrate all the way to the center of the yolk for the proper amount of time in order for the eggs to be properly pasteurized. " I think that there are so many variables that a consumer would have to get right in order to lower their risk," he says. That said, he concedes that while he would never be convinced that the method is guaranteed to work, he does allow that home pasteurization—if done exactly right every time—could lower the risk.
While I may have made marginal headway in my game of "Convince Jim Rogers to Let Me Eat Raw Eggs," I have to accept that I am never going to get a food safety stickler to fully endorse home pasteurization. But based on my research—and despite the shortcomings—I think I can safely say that using a sous vide setup to pasteurize eggs can reduce the risks of eating raw eggs far more than simply throwing up your hands and saying, "Aw, screw it, I'm just gonna eat raw-egg mayo because I have no hope of ever meeting the official guidelines."
All in all, we can pretty safely conclude the following:
- Home pasteurization using sous vide is inherently prone to human and machine error, and therefore is not nearly as reliable or safe as commercial pasteurization.
- The hot water method's estimated 4.5-log reduction as described in the 2016 Journal of Food Science study would significantly lower infection risk, assuming the process is done correctly and the gear is properly calibrated and in working order. To emphasize Rogers' point, that's a pretty big "if," but even if we do avoid human and mechanical error, it's still not as effective as commercially pasteurized eggs' 5-log reduction.
Does this mean I would serve home-pasteurized raw eggs to an elderly, immunocompromised, or pregnant friend, relative, or stranger? No. I do not want to kill grandma. But I myself feel totally comfortable eating the mayo and meringue made with the eggs pasteurized with sous vide following the recommended times and temperatures.
Home pasteurization is arguably a lot better than doing nothing, so if you're a raw egg lover who also owns an immersion circulator, it seems to me it's worth taking this extra step to reduce risk.
Tested: How Well Do Sous-Vide Pasteurized Eggs Work in Mayos and MeringuesAll of the above is the theory. Now we need to consider the practical side: How do sous-vide pasteurized eggs work in the types of recipes that require raw eggs?
To find out, we took out a trusty immersion circulator and tested a batch of 11 large eggs at a temperature of 135°F (57.2°C) for 90 minutes, starting from the time the water bath reached 135°F (57.2°C). We arrived at this temperature and timeframe by slightly padding both the ideal temperature and time of 65 to 75 minutes at 57°C (134.6°F) outlined in the paper "Immersion Heat Treatments for Inactivation of Salmonella Enteritidis With Intact Eggs." The eggs were fully submerged in a large pot with enough space for the water to circulate freely around them. After the 90 minutes at 135°F, we immediately transferred the eggs to an ice bath to quickly cool them to a safe holding temperature.
Results: Home-Pasteurized Eggs Compared to Unpasteurized Eggs in RecipesAppearance and texture: After chilling the eggs, I separated the yolks from the whites and examined them. The yolks looked completely unchanged by the process, but the whites were noticeably cloudy and felt a bit more viscous than I'd expect for a truly raw egg, signs that some of the proteins in the egg white had started to coagulate. "It's not solid or semi-solid like a soft boiled egg, but there are still some changes probably going on with that white," says Rogers of the lengthy exposure to moderate heat.
After the visual examination, I put the eggs to the test in two popular recipes that are dependent on a raw egg's ability to emulsify fats (mayo) and trap air (whipped egg whites)—two things that cooked eggs are not nearly as capable of doing, if at all.
Mayonnaise test: For my first test, I used one home-pasteurized egg yolk, 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, 1 cup of extra-virgin olive oil, and kosher salt to whisk together a basic mayonnaise. The mayo came together exactly as I would expect it to with an unpasteurized egg—the egg emulsified the mixture beautifully and fairly quickly. The flavor and texture were also excellent, so I consider this test a total success. The only way it would have been more successful is if we had some cold poached lobster or crab to dip into the mayonnaise.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeringue test: For this test, I enlisted the help of pastry pro Genieve Yam to make meringue with the egg whites following the French meringue in her meringue cookie recipe, although instead of baking the meringue into cookies, we left it unbaked as you would if you wanted to use the meringue to top a pie.
The egg whites took more than double the time of unpasteurized eggs to get frothy and then to be whipped into an airy meringue. Rogers says this is likely to be due to the denaturing of the proteins—the same thing that made the egg whites cloudy. But after the extra-long whipping time in the stand mixer, the egg white–sugar mixture did eventually transform into a meringue that I'd describe as a success. The volume was slightly less than I would have expected from a truly raw egg, but the final texture and flavor of the meringue were excellent.
How to Pasteurize Eggs at Home Using Sous VideIf you decide to pasteurize eggs at home using sous vide after reading about the possible risks, here's how to do it. Note that while Salmonella grows very slowly at refrigerator temperatures, I still recommend using eggs you've home-pasteurized immediately rather than storing them. And keep in mind that if there is any Salmonella present in the eggs, it can repopulate over time, so eating food made with the eggs sooner rather than later is the best bet. It's especially important not to let it sit out for more than two hours (one hour at higher temperatures).
- Start with fresh eggs with no visible shell damage, such as cracks.
- Submerge up to a dozen eggs in a large pot of water fitted with an immersion circulator. Be sure there is space around the eggs for the water to circulate freely.
- Set the immersion circulator to 135°F (57.2°C). Once the temperature has reached 135°F (57.2°C), start a timer for 90 minutes.
- Using a high-quality instant-read or probe thermometer, continuously monitor the temperature of the water bath to confirm the immersion circulator is maintaining the set temperature.
- After 90 minutes, immediately transfer the eggs to an ice bath. Use the whole eggs, whites, or yolks as you would regular raw eggs.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe VerdictThough it's not guaranteed to work, we believe that home pasteurization using sous vide is a good method of improving the safety of raw eggs. The eggs we tested with this method worked well in recipes, though egg whites took longer to whip. Overall, if you are concerned about the risks of raw eggs and can get your hands on commercially pasteurized raw eggs, that would be the best choice in recipes that call for raw egg, but we like the sous vide method as an alternate way to reduce—but not eliminate—the dangers of eating raw eggs.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeAs a kid, I was disgusted by cauliflower. I'd insist on removing it from my plate before even considering the rest of my meal. I know I didn't give the vegetable a fair shake, but then again, the only cauliflower I knew was bland, pale, faintly sulfurous, and nearly always either under- or overcooked.
It wasn’t until adulthood that I learned the joys of nutty, rich, roasted cauliflower. Roasting it at a high temperature creates a crisp exterior with a tender—but not mushy—interior. The high heat also ensures that those unpleasant sulfurous compounds don't form. Today, cauliflower is a staple in my dinner rotation: It’s easy to make, pairs well with just about everything, and can be dressed up with a favorite seasoning blend, fresh herbs, or a simple sauce I already have on hand.
On a busy weeknight, my favorite way to roast cauliflower is in my air fryer. I just press a few buttons, and the air fryer is ready to go. There’s a reason why the appliance is such a popular powerhouse: It’s basically a tiny convection oven that circulates air efficiently to promote browning on food, which is why it’s so great at quickly and perfectly roasting vegetables.
Though cooking cauliflower in the air fryer isn’t complicated, there are a few tips and tricks to help you make flavorful cauliflower that’s both crisp and tender. We asked seasoned recipe developer Julia Levy to methodically test air-fryer–roasted cauliflower by cooking batch after batch until she'd perfected the process. Here’s what you need to know.
Tips for Making Great Air-Fryer CauliflowerCut into evenly sized florets. Keeping all the florets roughly two inches in size creates more surface area for crisping, while also allowing for more uniform cooking. Cutting up cauliflower into florets is relatively easy, just make sure to remove the fibrous center core, then cut with the natural branching system of the florets to minimize waste.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeAdd moisture before cooking. In her air-fryer roasted broccoli recipe, Genevieve points out that for perfectly roasted broccoli, keep moisture at a minimum, but with roasting cauliflower, the opposite is true. Cauliflower and broccoli look similar at first, and the goal is the same when you're roasting them in your air-fryer—sweet nuttiness from browning and caramelization—but cauliflower is denser than broccoli, and needs to be treated differently to achieve florets that are tender inside and crisp and on the outside.
To cook, flavor, and crisp up the cauliflower in the air fryer, we learned that tossing it with oil and water does the trick. Oil and water together might seem counterintuitive, but here's what happens: The water steams the dense vegetable initially to soften it, and when the water evaporates, the oil provides optimal heat transfer for browning. The result is cauliflower that’s creamy on the interior and lightly crisped outside.
Crank up the heat. As with other brassicas, high heat is what you're after here in order to get the most flavor out of cauliflower.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeKeep it simple or dress it up. While crispy air-fryer cauliflower is fantastic with nothing more than a sprinkle of salt and the oil it’s cooked in, it’s also a great canvas for your favorite seasonings. Gussy it up with a blend of Madras-style curry powder, garlic powder, and cumin before roasting, finish it with a blend of fresh herbs and lemon, or toss it with an easy Buffalo-style hot sauce. See the Variations section below the recipe for detailed ideas on dressing up your air-fryer cauliflower. You can also incorporate the cooked cauliflower into a quiche or salad or toss your favorite pasta with it. Personally? I like to turn mine into a warm salad with a zesty lemon vinaigrette.
Preheat a 6-quart air fryer to 400°F (205ºC) for 5 minutes. Cut cauliflower into 8 wedges, then cut into 2-inch florets (should be about 4 cups total). In a large bowl, toss cauliflower with oil, salt and pepper until well coated; use your hands to make sure all nooks and crannies are coated with oil and seasonings.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt Glaze, Prop Stylist: Priscilla Montiel, Food Stylist: Julian HensarlingArrange half (about 2 cups) of the florets into the preheated air fryer basket; cook, shaking basket twice during cooking, until tender and well browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and cover to keep warm; and repeat cooking with the remaining cauliflower. Combine cauliflower and serve.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeSpecial Equipment6-quart capacity air fryer
Make-Ahead and StorageCauliflower can be chopped into florets and refrigerated in a zip-top bag or airtight container up to 3 days before cooking.
Air-fried cauliflower can be made up to 4 days in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container. Reheat in a microwave or air fryer preheated to 340ºF (170ºC) until warm.
VariationsCurry and Cumin: Add 2 teaspoons Madras-style curry powder, 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder, and 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin with the oil to toss with the raw cauliflower in step 1.
Dill and Lemon: In a large bowl, toss the roasted cauliflower with 2 tablespoons minced fresh dill, 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest, and 1 tablespoon lemon juice before serving.
Buffalo-Style: In a small bowl, whisk 2 tablespoons melted butter with 2 tablespoons Frank's Red Hot Sauce or other Louisiana-style hot sauce to combine. Once cauliflower is done roasting, transfer to a large bowl and toss with the prepared buffalo sauce before serving.
Debbie WeeI look forward to tomato season every year, when ripe tomatoes in brilliant shades of red, green, orange, and yellow are seemingly everywhere. This tart, a play on Kenji's tomato, mayo, and toast, is just a way to showcase the quality of in-season tomatoes: a crisp puff pastry spread with herbed whipped ricotta and juicy, sweet tomatoes layered on top.
It's also very quick to put together because of the frozen puff pastry, which arguably does its job just as well as homemade puff pastry. One thing to keep in mind, however, is that it's important to thaw frozen puff pastry until it's cool and pliable first, either by letting it sit in the refrigerator overnight or on the countertop at room temperature for a couple hours.
Because the toppings are uncooked, the pastry must be baked beforehand, and I use Sohla’s tips for blind-baking to produce an ultra-crispy crust: dock the pastry with a fork and weigh it down with a sheet pan to keep massive air pockets at bay as it bakes.
As for the tomatoes, any variety of tomato or mix of varieties will work; you just want to be sure the tomatoes are firm and ripe. I salt and drain the tomatoes in advance to extract excess moisture, in order to prevent the tart from getting soggy, but it also helps if you’re planning to transport this tart or want it to last on the appetizer platter for longer than an hour or so.
Whipping the ricotta in a food processor smooths out any lumps and incorporates air, creating a light and fluffy texture. Once the components are ready and the puff pastry is completely cooled, assembly is a breeze. Simply slather the ricotta over the cool pastry (doing it while the pastry is warm will make a mess), layer the sliced tomatoes on top, and sprinkle them with sea salt, black pepper, balsamic vinegar, and basil leaves. The tart is best served at room temperature and complements almost everything, making it a wonderful appetizer or side dish for any gathering.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 400°F (205°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. On a lightly floured surface, place one sheet of puff pastry directly on top of the other. Using a rolling pin, roll pastry into a 11- by 15-inch rectangle. Transfer pastry to prepared baking sheet and, using a fork, poke pastry all over. Cover the pastry with a sheet of parchment and place another rimmed baking sheet on top. Bake until pastry is light golden brown, about 25 minutes.
Debbie WeeRemove from oven, and remove the top baking sheet and parchment. Increase oven temperature to 450°F (230°C). Return pastry to oven and continue to bake until crisp and deeply browned, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove from oven and allow pastry to cool completely on baking sheet, about 1 hour 30 minutes.
Debbie WeeMeanwhile, line a second rimmed baking sheet with a double layer of paper towels or a clean kitchen towel. Once pastry is nearly cool, arrange tomato slices in a single layer on prepared baking sheet and sprinkle with 3/4 teaspoon salt. Set aside for 15 minutes, then use additional paper towels or a second clean kitchen towel to blot excess liquid.
Debbie WeeIn the bowl of a food processor, combine ricotta and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt r and process until smooth and creamy, about 1 minute. Add parsley and pulse to combine. Using an offset spatula, spread ricotta mixture evenly over puff pastry, leaving a 1/2-inch border on all sides. Arrange tomato slices evenly over ricotta mixture. Season with pepper and sea salt, drizzle with balsamic vinegar, and sprinkle with basil. Cut into portions and serve.
Debbie WeeSpecial EquipmentRolling pin, rimmed baking sheets, parchment paper, food processor, small offset spatula
NotesUse the ripest tomatoes you can find. When tomatoes aren’t in season, use smaller plum, grape, or cherry tomatoes.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe tart is best eaten the same day.
The whipped ricotta can be made ahead of time. Store in an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 1 week.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn my years of cooking in restaurant kitchens, I would routinely cut off a piece of masking tape at the start of every shift and put it above my station, then mark a notch with my sharpie every time I would finish a deli container of ice water. It was something that I forced myself to do to track my water intake throughout the course of a busy service where self care was not a priority, despite sweltering kitchen heat. If I had a few scrap ends of lemons or limes, or a bruised berry or two, I’d throw them into my deli filled with ice water in an effort to make my water more enticing, but it was hardly a thoughtful approach to creating a flavored beverage.
With my days of cooking on the line far behind me, I now approach my water consumption with a different perspective. I no longer track and force my water drinking in a hurried haste. I now view water as something to be savored and enjoyed. And while water is very necessary, plain water can sometimes be…a little boring. Infusing water with a few fresh ingredients that are muddled, steeped, then strained, can elevate everyday hydration.
Here, I want infused water with subtle bright flavor that I would be excited to drink, without needing a piece of masking tape in my direct eyeline to track my consumption. To obtain this, I needed to figure out a reliable method for achieving those goals. After wading deeper into the world of infused water, and learning from established drink recipes such as agua frescas and horchatas from Mexico and Central America, as well as various other steeped fruit and herbal infusions throughout the world, I realized there’s more to a flavored water than simply adding a handful of fresh produce to plain water, and serving. When I tried this back in my days as a line cook, the water lacked flavor, and turned bitter over time.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBetter, I found, is the muddling technique used in this cucumber water recipe, where I muddle the selected ingredients and then steep with a small amount of water for just 30 minutes to one hour, which provided a more intense flavor. Leaving the muddled ingredients in the water for over an hour made the water bitter, especially the pithy grapefruit, which means straining after the steeping step is important. Additionally, if the mixture is left unstrained, the water turns into a cloudy and pulpy beverage, which I did not want.
I chose blackberries, grapefruit, and fresh sage as my muddling ingredients for this flavored water recipe below. Blackberries provide a welcome pink hue to the water and a tart and sweet flavor to offset the bitter grapefruit. Grapefruit gives the water welcome acidity with bitter notes from the oils present in the peel, which I leave on for muddling and steeping. Sage rounds out the water with a complex herbal quality that, when used in moderation, is aromatic with grassy undertones.
When infused properly, the combination of these ingredients creates a water that is slightly sweet, acidic, and a bit complex. And while not totally necessary, a final garnish of the ingredients adds visual appeal that might be just enough to motivate the under-quenched among us to stay hydrated.
Halve the grapefruit from pole-to-pole (cutting through the stem and blossom ends). Slice halves into thin half moons.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large bowl or 8-cup measuring cup, combine 1 cup water (236ml), half of the grapefruit half-moons, 1 cup of the blackberries, and 2 tablespoons of sage. Using a potato masher or muddler, mash fruit mixture until broken down and all juice is expressed, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezStir in 3 cups (710ml) of water. Refrigerate, covered, until flavors meld and mixture is chilled, 30 minutes to 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezStrain infused water through a fine-mesh strainer set over a large pitcher, pressing on solids to extract as much juice as possible. Discard solids.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezStir in remaining 4 cups (945ml) water. Just before serving, garnish pitcher or individual glasses with remaining half of grapefruit slices, remaining 1/4 cup of blackberries, and remaining 1 tablespoon sage. Serve over ice.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNotesFeel free to adjust the amount and cutting technique of the ingredients used as the final garnish in the water. This is your opportunity to be creative and add your personal touch.
For a fun final garnish, serve with decorative ice cubes filled with small pieces of fresh produce or herbs frozen in the center.
Special EquipmentLarge water pitcher (holds at least 10 cups), potato masher or muddler, fine-mesh strainer
Make-Ahead and StorageStrained infused water (without added garnish) can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.
Andrew JanjigianShrimp rolls don’t get enough credit; they’re versatile, flavorful, and easy to make on a weeknight. Since they're so simple to put together, my recipe focuses on getting the details right: hot, buttered buns loaded with perfectly grilled and perfectly seasoned bite-size bits of shrimp tossed in an herb-packed mayonnaise.
I start by making the herby mayonnaise, which is a simple mixture of mayonnaise, parsley, chives, lemon juice, mustard, sugar, and salt, and the seasoning blend for the shrimp, a mixture of chile powder, paprika, garlic and onion powder, and black pepper. If you’re short on time, you can easily use one tablespoon of your favorite seafood seasoning, like Old Bay, in place of the shrimp seasoning mix.
For the shrimp, I used Kenji’s steps for making the best grilled shrimp, which makes them easier to grill, more appealing to look at, and keeps them plump and moist while maximizing char. However, I chose to skip the baking soda step, as I didn't think the shrimp needed to be any more snappy and plump. If you prefer shrimp to have that texture and choose to toss them with baking soda and salt to achieve it, just be sure to leave out the salt in the seasoning mix.
I love top-split hot dog buns for shrimp rolls—they're easier to eat and less messy overall—but I think they need to be liberally brushed with melted butter before you pop them on the grill, both to keep them from sticking and for a buttery boost of flavor. Keep in mind that butter has a lower smoke point than olive oil, so it won’t take long for grill marks to develop on the buns.
Once the shrimp are cool and the buns are done, I coarsely chop the shrimp into bite-size pieces and toss them with the herby mayonnaise, line the (buttered! hot!) rolls with fresh, silky butter lettuce, load the shrimp up, sprinkle the tops with chives, and dig in!
For the Herby Mayonnaise: In a medium bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, parsley, chives, lemon juice, mustard, sugar, and salt. Cover and refrigerate.
Andrew JanjigianFor the Grilled Shrimp and Buns: In a small bowl, combine chile powder, salt, paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, and pepper, and stir until well combined. Set aside.
Andrew JanjigianThread shrimp onto sets of 2 skewers, alternating heads to tails and pushing shrimp so that they are nestled snugly together; you should have 12 shrimp on each set of skewers. Lay skewers on top of a baking dish so that shrimp are suspended above bottom of dish. Refrigerate, uncovered, for 1 hour. When shrimp are ready to grill, brush both sides with olive oil and sprinkle evenly with prepared spice blend.
Light 1/2 chimney of charcoal. When all charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and spread coals evenly over half of charcoal grate. Set cooking grate in place, cover grill, and allow to preheat for 5 minutes. Alternatively, set half the burners on a gas grill to the highest setting, cover, and preheat for 10 minutes. Clean and oil grilling grate.
Place shrimp directly over hot side of grill and cook until shrimp are lightly charred in spots on bottom side, about 2 minutes. Flip shrimp and continue to cook until just cooked through and lightly charred on second side, about 2 minutes longer. Transfer shrimp to a cutting board; set aside. Remove herby mayonnaise from refrigerator to temper slightly, and set aside.
Brush exterior of each hot dog bun with melted butter. Place buns over hot side of grill. Cook, flipping once halfway through, until buns are soft and lightly charred, about 30 seconds. Transfer buns to a plate or rimmed baking sheet; set aside.
Andrew JanjigianCarefully remove skewers from shrimp and, using a sharp knife, cut shrimp into bite-size pieces. Transfer to bowl with herby mayonnaise and gently stir to evenly coat shrimp.
Andrew JanjigianLine inside of each toasted bun with lettuce leaves, divide shrimp evenly among buns, sprinkle with chives, and serve immediately.
Andrew JanjigianSpecial equipmentGas or charcoal grill, 12-inch skewers
NotesWhile developing this recipe, I used "chili powder seasoning" produced by McCormick's, which is a blend of ground spices that includes cayenne, cumin, and paprika. Similar seasoning mixes can be found from a number of brands, some simply labeled "chili powder." However, this recipe was also tested with different powdered chile peppers; most any fruity dried chile, like gochugaru, will work. If you cannot find a chili powder like the one I describe above and would like to approximate its flavor profile, I recommend substituting with 3/4 teaspoon ground cumin and 1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper.
Make-ahead and StorageThe herby mayonnaise can be prepared in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
Serious Eats / Francesca FasciglioneEvery pit expert (we’re talkin’ about you) should have their essential grilling tools. If you don’t, the good news is that summer—peak grilling season!—is the time for sales. So, we combed through early Fourth of July deals to round up the best discounts on grilling tools and gadgets, whether you prefer cooking on gas or charcoal.
The Best Grilling Accessory Deals, at a Glance: A Great Chimney Starter: Outset Collapsible Camping Grill and Chimney Starter * An Extra-Long Pair of Grill Gloves: Comsmart BBQ Gloves * The Best Budget-Friendly Wireless Grill Thermometer: ThermoPro TP20 Wireless Meat Thermometer * The Best Lump Charcoal: Jealous Devil All Natural Hardwood Lump Charcoal * The Best Slicing Knife: Tuo Meat Slicing Knife * A Deft Fish Spatula: MIU France Large Stainless Steel Slotted Turner * A Super Thorough Grill Brush: Weber 12-Inch Three-Sided Grill Brush * The Best Stainless Steel Skewers: OXO Good Grips Stainless Steel Grilling Skewers * An Extra-Long Pair Grill Tongs: Broil King Baron Barbecue Tong * The Best Round Grill Press: Bellemain Cast Iron Grill Press * A Super-Sharp Steak Knife Set:* Zwilling Pro Le Blanc 4-Piece Steak Knife Set
Outset Collapsible Camping Grill and Chimney StarterAmazonIf you own a charcoal grill, you need a chimney starter. After burning through 78 pounds of charcoal, we named the Outset collapsible camping grill and chimney starter as one of our favorites. Built with a zinc body and chrome grates, it’s easy to assemble by unfolding and popping in two grates. During our tests, it was the fastest briquette-lighting model, taking 26 minutes to light six quarts and 20 minutes for three. It was also easy to light thanks to its large bottom holes. Plus, it can double as a mini camping grill and it’s 24% off right now.
Serious Eats / Greg BakerComsmart BBQ GlovesAmazonIf you’re an avid griller, you’re poking, prodding, and flipping within close proximity to very high heat. To keep your hands protected, grill gloves are non-negotiable. These Comsmart BBQ gloves accomplish that and are long enough to cover some of your forearms. On sale for just $14, they’re a steal.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThermoPro TP20 Wireless Meat ThermometerAmazonThe ThermoPro TP20 is our favorite budget wireless grill thermometer, and it’s on sale for $45. It’s fast, and accurate, and had a lightning-fast 6.3-second response time in our tests. Itt uses radio frequency to transmit temperatures from its probe to its base, which can be less prone to connectivity issues compared to Bluetooth or WiFi.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreJealous Devil All Natural Hardwood Lump CharcoalAmazonLump charcoal burns cleaner is good whether you want intense fire or low-and-slow heat. While it can be pricey, our top pick, from Jealous Devil, is nearly 30% off at the moment. During our tests, this charcoal was the best at maintaining a consistent temperature.
Serious Eats / Meredith ButcherTUO Meat Slicing KnifeAmazonFor slicing and serving your sirloin steak or pork tenderloin after they’re on the grill, you’ll need a blade that’s thinner and longer than a typical chef’s knife to get clean cuts of meat. In our tests, the TUO slicing knife produced razor-thin slices of prime rib and its blade easily maneuvered around bones. The blade’s uniform thickness ensures even slices every time and it features a rounded, ergonomic handle that’s comfortable to hold. Already reasonably priced, it’s even more affordable with a 10% onsite coupon.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayMIU France Large Stainless Steel Slotted TurnerAmazonThe humble fish spatula makes easy work of flipping thick burgers, delicate pancakes, and more. After testing 12 models, we chose the now-$25 MIU stainless steel turner as a great budget option. Thanks to its angled and offset blade, it easily gets under food.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWeber 12-Inch Three-Sided Grill BrushAmazonEvery grill enthusiast should have an efficient and thorough grill brush While we love the Grillart, the Weber three-sided grill brush is another great option, and happens to be on sale for $15. Its triangular-shaped head and all-over bristles help it conform to the grill grates, scrubbing them clean quickly.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmOXO Good Grips Stainless Steel Grilling SkewersAmazonA great grilling skewer should hold onto foods and pierce them easily. The OXO Good Grips skewers did just that during our tests. Thanks to their super-sharp tips, we never had to puncture foods multiple times. Their flat stems prevented food from spinning around and their broad handles were easy to grip.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerBroil King Baron Barbecue TongAmazonThe now-$9 Broil King Baron barbecue tongs are easy to open and close—a must for when you’re moving quickly around the grill to make sure nothing gets too charred. In our tests, they gripped and flipped with great stability, even when tackling a floppy piece of flank steak. At 16 inches long, they also allowed us to work while keeping some distance from the heat.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyBellemain Cast Iron Grill PressAmazonIf you don’t mind hand-washing your grill press, the Bellemain cast iron press offers60 square inches of coverage and three pounds of weight. In our tests, it was wide enough to cover multiple slices of bacon and heavy enough to hold down a steak. Throughout our testing, the Bellemain impressed us (pun intended) by producing evenly cooked bacon and beautifully browned grilled cheeses. It also happens to be 34% off.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezZwilling Pro Le Blanc 4-Piece Steak Knife SetTargetIn our quest to find steak knives that could slice through meat like butter, the Zwilling set stood out. The handle was just the right weight and the design was undeniably elegant. Throughout our tests, it made easy work of slicing through tough and tender steak alike. Normally over $400, the set’s on sale for a whopping 45% off.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhy We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * Despite being a vegetarian, An loves to eat (and cook!) grilled foods. She recently made oyster mushroom skewers with chimichurri sauce.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeShrimp is one of my favorite sources of protein, but there’s nothing that can ruin a meal quite like biting into one and finding it's overcooked to the point of being rubbery or mushy.
Shrimp cook quickly and can go from perfect to overdone in a matter of seconds, so it's critical to not overcook them. Beyond that, though, there's a technique we've long used on Serious Eats to ensure plump, juicy, snappy, and delicious shrimp: Dry brine it with a simple combo of baking soda and salt. It's a trick I employ every time I cook shrimp.
The Science Behind Why Shrimp Gets Mushy or RubberyBefore we dive into why the brine works, it’s important to note what’s happening to your shrimp when it cooks, and why it can take on a rubbery or mushy texture if cooked too long. “When you apply heat to any protein—meat, fish, eggs—the proteins denature and coagulate, bonding with each other to form a more solid structure,” explains Serious Eats editorial director Daniel Gritzer. “With extended time and increased heat, the proteins bond tighter and tighter, which squeezes liquid out of the meat just like wringing out a sponge. This can lead to dryness, or in the case of shrimp, a tighter, less plump texture,” and eventually a mushy one as the muscle tissue breaks down further.
Why You Should Dry Brine Your ShrimpSerious Eats / Debbie WeeTo keep shrimp plump and juicy as they cook, we turn to a dry brine of baking soda and salt—inexpensive ingredients we all have on hand. These two ingredients interact with the shrimp in important ways—increasing the pH and interacting with muscle proteins—with the overall effect of increasing moisture retention during cooking..
“Salt and a higher pH (meaning, more alkaline) can both help the shrimp retain moisture by interfering with how efficiently the proteins can bond with each other so that they contract less,” says Daniel. “In meat and other animal protein, including seafood, salt dissolves the muscle protein myosin, which in turn reduces the myosin's degree of contraction during cooking. Raising the pH, meanwhile, increases the amount of hydroxide ions (OH⁻) in the solution; they interact with protons (H⁺) that would otherwise be available to participate in the protein bonding and reducing the ability of those proteins to bond more readily.”
This phenomenon occurs in all animal proteins, including seafood and shrimp, which is why we almost always recommend dry-brining your meat for the best results. Both Kenji Alt-López and Daniel have employed this technique in numerous shrimp recipes across our site, including shrimp scampi and grilled shrimp. We suggest using about one teaspoon of kosher salt and 1/4 teaspoon baking soda for every pound of shrimp, whether shelled or not. Only about 15 minutes—during which time you can prep your other ingredients—is all that’s needed, but you can keep it marinating up to an hour; just make sure to pop it in the fridge to keep it fresh if you're planning to let it sit for more than a few minutes.
Kenji also notes that while this technique is great for achieving plump and snappy shrimp, it also aids in browning shrimp. That's because the Maillard reaction—the browning reactions that happen when proteins and sugars in foods interact with heat to create more complex flavors—occurs more quickly at higher pH levels.
Further Ensure Juiciness By Not Overcooking Shrimp It’s important to note that it’s still possible to overcook your shrimp even after brining it, so you’ll want to keep an eye on the shrimp as it’s cooking. “This is a technique that prolongs a more desirable plump texture and extends the time before the tightening effects of overcooking become apparent,” says Daniel, but the shrimp will eventually overcook regardless. He also notes that while this technique is beneficial and makes a noticeable difference, you may not always want a more taut texture in your shrimp—it all comes down to personal preference.
“It's a very specific texture, and in some ways, the shrimp has a tautness that is noticeable,” says Daniel. “It's plump, it's juicy, it's not mushy, but it's also not very tender. So you're losing something to gain some other things.” He compares the water retention in brined shrimp to a “tightly-filled water balloon,” which is not always ideal. For example, in Tim Chin’s shrimp fried rice recipe, he opts not to dry brine the shrimp after finding that doing so would have increased the cooking time and reduced the smoky wok hei flavor he was trying to achieve.
While we can’t guarantee you’ll never encounter rubbery or mushy shrimp again—especially outside your home—this is a great technique to keep in your back pocket as an insurance policy.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezGrowing up in Canada, I’ve had plenty of Nanaimo bars from bakeries, restaurants, and my own grandmother’s kitchen. With three distinct layers—a graham cracker crust with shredded coconut and cocoa powder, a sweet custard filling, and a bittersweet chocolate topping—Nanaimo bars are an eye-catching treat. The no-bake bars have been a mainstay across Canada since the 1950s, when the bars were apparently first made in the waterfront city of Nanaimo in British Columbia. The bars became even more popular in the late 1980s, when they were featured at Expo ‘86, the World’s Fair in British Columbia.
As with many other iconic desserts, there’s much debate about what makes the perfect Nanaimo bar. Some cooks may prefer a thicker base, while others want more icing. In 2019, when Canada Post revealed a line of stamps featuring Canadian desserts—including a Nanaimo bar with a hefty layer of filling—the stamp caused a commotion among many Canadians who felt strongly that the ratio of crust to filling was incorrect. “I worry about the structural integrity of this nanaimo bar,” tweeted reporter David Reevely. For me, the best Nanaimo bars have a hefty crust, with a thinner layer of custard icing and chocolate. Read on for my tips on making what to me are the perfect Nanaimo bars, as well as my full recipe.
Tips for Making Perfect Nanaimo BarsMake a sturdy base. For a base layer with plenty of flavor and nutty texture, I pulse graham crackers, shredded coconut, and walnuts together in a food processor to form fine crumbs. The graham crackers provide structure, while the coconut adds sweetness. I love to use walnuts for their flavor, but some variations of Nanaimo bars call for chopped almonds instead—you can easily swap in almonds or even pecans if desired. Just use the same volume of nuts and proceed with the recipe as written.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThough most recipes for bars will have you bake the base so it firms up, my Nanaimo bars require no time in the oven at all. I whisk an egg into melted butter, sugar, and cocoa powder over a pot of simmering water, and as the egg cooks, the mixture thickens. Together with the butter, the cooked beaten egg acts as a binding agent to bring the crust together without having to turn the oven on.
Similar to a quick graham cracker crust, the butter mixture moistens the crumbs, so it can be pressed into a baking dish to form the sturdy base layer. Once the base has chilled and set in the freezer, I add the custard icing layer on top.
Use a touch of custard powder to make the icing. It wouldn’t be a Nanaimo bar without its filling of custard icing, which comes together quickly with the help of a stand or hand mixer: All you have to do is beat softened butter, powdered sugar, custard powder, milk, vanilla extract, and salt together until you get a rich frosting. I’ve chosen to use Bird’s custard powder here because of the brand’s 100-plus year history; it's the one many Canadians—including my grandmother—reach for when making Nanaimo bars.
No one knows exactly why classic Nanaimo bars feature custard-flavored icing as opposed to actual custard, but I do know it wouldn't be a Nanaimo bar without the powder, which enhances the vanilla flavor of the frosting and its creamy texture. My ideal custard layer is just slightly thinner than the base layer, so it provides plenty of flavor without being overpowering. Once I spread the frosting over the base, I refrigerate it for an hour to give it a chance to firm up before moving it into the freezer to get it extra cold for the chocolate layer.
Semisweet or dark chocolate is key. To prevent the dessert from being cloying, it’s essential to use semisweet or dark chocolate (around 70% cocoa) for the topping. The bitterness of the dark chocolate helps to offset the sweetness of the filling and rounds out the entire dessert.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPortion with a hot knife. For nice, clean cuts, I run a sharp knife under hot tap water and dry it with a clean kitchen towel before cutting the chilled bars. For the most precise cuts, I recommend repeating this step between each slice.
Serve the bars cold. To keep the structure of the bars and the layers distinct, it’s crucial to store Nanaimo bars in the fridge. I like to enjoy a Nanaimo bar straight out of the fridge, but you can also let them come to room temperature for several minutes if you prefer—you’ll just have to be prepared for very soft chocolate and custard layers. No matter how they’re served, these Nanaimo bars are a comforting taste of home, and bring me straight back to my childhood in Canada.
Using nonstick baking spray, grease an 8- by 8-inch baking pan. Alternatively, line the baking pan with 2 long strips of parchment to cover the bottom and sides, creasing as needed to ensure a secure fit.
For the Crust: In the bowl of a food processor, pulse together graham crackers, shredded coconut, and walnuts until finely ground. Transfer mixture to a medium bowl.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPlace butter in a medium heatproof bowl and set over a saucepan of simmering water. When butter is melted, whisk in sugar and cocoa powder until dissolved, then add beaten egg. Mix until smooth and slightly thickened, about 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPour melted butter mixture over graham cracker crumbs, tossing to evenly coat crumbs in chocolate and butter mixture. Gently knead until cohesive and transfer to prepared baking pan. Spread into an even layer, then compress firmly with a flat-bottomed drinking glass or measuring cup. Place in the freezer until firm, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Custard Filling: In a medium bowl, use a hand mixer to beat butter, powdered sugar, custard powder, milk, vanilla, and salt on medium speed until smooth, about 3 minutes. (Alternatively, in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat softened butter, powdered sugar, custard powder, milk, vanilla, and salt on medium speed until smooth, about 3 minutes.) Remove crust from freezer and, using a flexible or offset spatula, spread custard filling over the crust. Refrigerate until set, about 1 hour, then transfer baking pan to freezer until ready to top with chocolate.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Chocolate Layer: In a medium heat-proof bowl, combine chopped chocolate and butter. Set bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water, stirring frequently, until chopped chocolate and butter are melted, about 5 minutes. Whisk until smooth and remove from heat.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRemove baking pan from the freezer. Using an offset spatula, spread chocolate mixture over chilled custard filling to evenly cover bars. Refrigerate bars until fully set, about 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing a hot knife, slice bars and serve. If not serving immediately, return bars to refrigerator until ready to serve. (For cleaner cuts, run knife under warm water and carefully dry the knife with a clean kitchen towel before portioning each slice.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment8- by 8-inch baking pan, food processor, medium saucepan, whisk, hand mixer or stand mixer, offset spatula
Make-Ahead and StorageNanaimo bars can be up to 4 days in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container. To freeze Nanaimo bars, tightly wrap individual slices in a layer of plastic wrap and then a layer of foil, and freeze in an airtight container. Nanaimo bars can be frozen for up to 2 months.
Serious Eats / Two Bites
An extremely underappreciated food category is dust. The nacho cheese dust you lick off your fingers after you polish off a bag of Doritos. The cinnamon-sugar dust that coats the pads of your thumbs after you’ve enjoyed some mall pretzel bites. In college, when I was craving homemade Indian food, my friend would serve me up dosas with her mom's homemade gunpowder, or podi—a dry powder made from lentils and spices—that you could sprinkle with abandon over just about anything.
Serious Eats / Two BitesIf you’re a dust-lover like I am, might I suggest trying out Caesar dust at home? The tangy-savory craveability of our favorite salad is begging to meet the finger licking–good quality of our favorite snack foods. This recipe for Caesar dust accomplishes just this. Plus it comes together in just a few minutes with only six main ingredients that, if not in your pantry already, are available at most large supermarkets.
Serious Eats / Two BitesEach ingredient does some serious heavy lifting in standing in for the flavor pillars of a classic Caesar dressing. They're all also shelf-stable, pantry-friendly ingredients that make the wonders of Caesar dust available to you any time the craving strikes. Some are obvious: Garlic powder and mustard powder stand in for raw garlic and prepared mustard. But in the pursuit of a shelf-stable Caesar, some ingredients are creative interpretations (that are pretty spot-on flavor-wise). Here's a look at some of the key ingredients that make up this culinary dust:
Serious Eats / Two Bites Seaweed snacks: Instead of anchovies, seaweed snacks are blitzed in a spice grinder to bring that same hit of salinity and umami. A small 10-gram snack-size package with pre-cut sheets is what we’re looking for, but if you can’t find it, one whole sheet of toasted seaweed cut into squares—roughly 3-x3-inches, just small enough to fit into your spice grinder—will work just as well. It’s important to take the time to blitz your seaweed snacks in a spice grinder. You don’t need a fine powder, but because the snacks often have quite a bit of oil, it may clump and stick to the walls of your spice grinder. Work in batches—three seems to do the trick—thoroughly scraping out the inside of the spice grinder when you’re done for any residual flakes. Visible flecks (the pulverized seaweed should be somewhere between the size of sesame seeds and oats) of sparkly seaweed in the blend are actually what we’re going for. Think of the speckles of green as a little nod to the absent romaine of a classic Caesar salad. * Parmesan cheese powder and nutritional yeast: Shelf-stable Parmesan cheese, like the kind you can find in shakers at your favorite pizza joint, makes this Caesar dust hold up at room temperature for up to two weeks. (Look for it in the pasta aisle at your grocery store; Kraft Grated Parmesan Cheese is one widely available brand). While using both Parmesan and nutritional yeast may seem like a redundancy—both the cheese and nooch provide a savory, cheesy backbone to the Caesar powder—here, nooch brings an additional malty, almost fatty savoriness that accomplishes what egg yolks do in a classic Caesar dressing. * Lemon pepper seasoning:* Store-bought, prepared lemon pepper spice blend—the wild card—brings a citrusy tang, thanks to its dehydrated lemon zest and citric acid that mimics the flavor and acidity of lemon juice.
The possibilities for this dust are limitless: Sprinkle over popcorn or hard-boiled eggs. Pour into a bag of kettle chips and give it a shake. Toss sturdy veggies like potatoes, peppers, or squash with oil and a sprinkling of Caesar dust before roasting. Season rice or buttered noodles. Or, go meta: crisp up Caesar dust–coated chickpeas in the oven or air fryer to use as a crunchy topping for your next Caesar salad. You’ll find that once you have a stockpile of Caesar dust, you’ll look for an excuse to add it to just about anything—and lick your fingers afterward.
Serious Eats / Two BitesOpen package of seaweed snacks, and cut the sheets in half. In three batches, blend the seaweed in an electric spice grinder until they are small flakes. Pour into a small bowl.
Serious Eats / Two BitesTo the small bowl, add Parmesan cheese powder, nutritional yeast, lemon pepper seasoning, garlic powder, and mustard powder. Mix well, using a fork. Use the tines of the fork to break up clumps, and fluff until the powder is well-combined and the texture of coarse sand. Taste and adjust salt, as needed.
Serious Eats / Two BitesSpecial EquipmentSpice Grinder
Notes1 teaspoon (4g) anchovy powder can be substituted for the seaweed snacks. If using the anchovy powder, omit the salt. Note the total yield when substituting with anchovy powder will be reduced by about half.
When purchasing seaweed snacks, make sure to buy plain, toasted, and salted seaweed—stay away from strong flavors like wasabi or sesame.
This recipe can be easily halved, or doubled as needed.
Make-Ahead and StorageCaesar Dust can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for two weeks, or two months in the freezer.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyIn a kitchen, every appliance has to earn its spot. And if you make multiple cups of tea or cook packages of instant ramen frequently, a hot water dispenser may be more convenient than a stovetop or electric kettle. While a tea kettle can quickly heat one to two liters of water, most don’t stay hot after. A hot water dispenser will heat and hold water at a designated, near-boiling temperature for several hours. It’s intended for all-day use, with hot water ready at the press of a button. Many models even have features for temperature control and flow rate, as well as energy-saving modes.
We tested nine popular hot water dispensers to find the best ones, assessing how well they performed, whether they could maintain a consistent temperature for hours, and how useful and user-friendly added features were.
The Winners, at a GlanceThis model from Zojirushi was the best mix of performance and everyday usability. It kept water nearly as warm as the Panasonic model but had a few of the features we loved from the Zojirushi VE Hybrid Water Boiler, such as a digital display and an alarm that lets you know when the water has finished boiling.
The Panasonic Electric Thermo Pot Water Boiler Dispenser is undeniably excellent at keeping water at a steady temperature for a long time. Its size makes it well-suited to smaller spaces; it has the smallest footprint of any hot water dispenser we tested, about two inches taller and wider than a 1.7-liter electric kettle. It may not have as many features as other models, but it performs incredibly well for a good price. Editorial director Daniel Gritzer, a hot water dispenser enthusiast, is a fan of this model.
The Zojirushi VE Hybrid Water Boiler has some features not found in other models, among them, a mode that allows you to bring water to a specific temperature (like 160°F, 175°F, or 195°F). It will keep water hot for a few hours without the use of power, too.
The Tests Water Temperature Test: We filled each hot water dispenser with water to its maximum capacity, heated it, and then dispensed eight ounces of water every hour for four hours, taking the temperature of each cup of water with an instant-read thermometer. We judged the consistency of the temperature over time, as well as the ease of operation and setup. * Dispensing Test: We dispensed eight ounces of water at a time until it was empty to see how easily the machines dispensed water down to the last drop. * Usability and Cleanup Tests:* Throughout testing, we noted how easy each dispenser was to use. We also cleaned each dispenser per the manufacturer’s instructions and evaluated the ease of doing so.
What We LearnedTaller Hot Water Dispensers Splashed More, Lost Heat, and Were Harder to CleanSerious Eats / Will DickeyThe hot water dispensers we tested varied in height, with the shortest measuring 10.8 inches and the tallest 15.3 inches. We found that with most of the taller models, the extra couple of inches meant a much splashier experience when dispensing water.
At 15.3 inches, the Chefman Electric Hot Water Pot was more than four inches taller than the stout Panasonic Electric Thermo Pot Water Boiler Dispenser. While the Panasonic model had a very smooth, pleasant flow from the machine to our cup, the Chefman model sputtered and sloshed onto our hands.
Beyond the safety issues with splashing hot water, taller models tended to lose more heat on the drop from the machine to the cup—and also had less consistent temperature measurements over four hours. For example, the Chefman model poured at only about 184°F throughout testing. The NutriChef Hot Water Urn was just a half-inch shorter than the Chefman and produced the wildest swings in temperature over the testing period, ranging between 183° and 195°F.
Finally, taller models were more difficult to clean. From a high countertop, it was tricky to replace the mesh filter (which prevents flakes of limescale and other debris from entering the dispensing mechanism) on one of the taller Zojirushi models than on a shorter model from the same brand.
Dispenser Design Impacted Usability and EaseSerious Eats / Will DickeyThe primary purpose of a hot water dispenser is to keep hot water hot, and all of these models can perform that basic function. However, the design differences impacted each machine’s ease of use, creating a pleasant (or not) experience. Many of the models had a lid that detached from the body of the machine at the hinge—that made emptying containers of any remaining water easier than models where the lid didn't fully detach.
The water level window was a small feature that also impacted usability. Those with ball water level indicators were especially easy to read at a glance, whereas water level gauges that relied on markings on the exterior of the machine required a closer look.
We preferred models with added-value functions, such as an alarm that sounded when the water reached a boil. This eliminated the need to babysit the machine or rely on the indicator button to show that the water reached a boil. It was also nice to have a range of keep-warm temperatures to choose from. Digital displays removed the question of how far into the boil or cooling cycle water was.
More Functions Didn’t Necessarily Equal a Better Machine Many of the hot water dispensers we tested had a variety of temperature settings, a useful tool for tea drinkers who want to ensure their water is at the correct temperature for proper extraction. Others have a timer that will put the machine to sleep to save energy. However, if your primary goal is to have a large amount of consistently hot water, the most tricked-out model isn’t necessarily your best bet—and it can cost more. The Panasonic was one of the least expensive out of the lineup and performed better than pricier models.
The Criteria: What to Look for In a Hot Water DispenserSerious Eats / Will DickeyThe best hot water dispensers maintained stable temperatures over several hours and didn’t lose a significant amount of heat as their water traveled through the machine and into a cup. A good hot water dispenser should produce a steady flow of water that doesn't splatter over the side of a cup and will feature an easy-to-read water gauge.
Our Top Hot Water DispensersWhat we liked: This hot water dispenser from Zojirushi had the best mix of performance, cost, and functionality. It maintained a precise temperature of 191°F for four hours, earning it the titles of most consistent and second-hottest (after the Panasonic). The Zojirushi had a keep-warm setting, as well as a few features we liked from the Zojirushi VE Hybrid Water Boiler, including multiple timer options, a digital display, and an alarm letting you know that water has finished boiling. Happily, the price splits the difference between our two other winning models.
What we didn’t like: The water level gauge is harder to read at a glance than the other winning Zojirushi and Panasonic models because it lacks the floating red ball. Sometimes, water splashed us as we dispensed it into a cup.
Key Specs Stated capacity: 4 liters * Materials: Nonstick coated stainless steel interior container; plastic exterior * Stated operation time: Not listed; unplug when not in use * Operating temperatures: 160, 175, 195, and 208°F * Dimensions: 11 1/2 x 9 1/8 x 11 7/8 inches * Weight: 5 pounds * Cord length: 35 inches * Care instructions:* Wipe the inner lid with a soft wet sponge; wipe the exterior with a damp well-wrung cloth; use a soft brush to clean the filter; periodically descale
Serious Eats / Will DickeyWhat we liked: The hot water dispenser from Panasonic wasn’t the fanciest of the bunch, but it kept water at the temperature we wanted and had the fastest, most consistent stream. Plus, it was the only model on our winners' list that didn’t splash when dispensing. We appreciated the detachable lid and removable mesh filter that made it easy to clean.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyWhat we didn’t like: We were tempted to make this our best overall pick, but there were a few key features this model lacked. The control panel was simple to use, but we found the digital displays on other models easier to read. Additionally, without the helpful alarm noting when the water had reached a boil, we found ourselves circling back multiple times to see when it was finished heating.
Key Specs Stated Capacity: 3 liters * Materials: Charcoal-coated stainless steel interior container, plastic exterior * Stated operation time: Not listed; unplug when not in use * Operating temperatures: 160, 175, 195, and 208°F * Dimensions: 10 4/5 x 8 1/2 x 11 1/3 inches * Weight: 4.4 pounds * Cord length: 37 inches * Care Instructions:* Clean the main unit and lid with a damp, well-wrung cloth; clean the inner container with a soft wet sponge; periodically descale
Serious Eats / Will DickeyWhat we liked: Of the four Zojirushi models we tested, the VE Hybrid Water Boiler offered features that made it easy to use and customizable. The orange LED display was the easiest to see of all models, and the water level gauge could be discerned at a glance. It also had the widest range of options for the energy-saving timer function. Users can set the device to idle for six, eight, 10, 12, 14, or 16 hours so that the machine doesn’t use energy to heat water when you don’t need it, but will reboil once it reaches the end of that time (perfect to set before bed for hot water first thing in the morning). Plus, this model featured an option to keep water warm for a few hours via vacuum insulation, another energy-saving bonus.
What we didn’t like: Of the three winning models, this dispenser lost the most heat when dispensing liquid. While it stayed at a consistent temperature over four hours, it was five degrees cooler than water dispensed from the Panasonic model set to the same “keep warm” temperature, and one to two degrees cooler than water dispensed from the Zojirushi Panorama model. A few droplets of water splashed us when dispensing into a cup.
Key Specs Stated capacity: 4 liters * Materials: Nonstick coated stainless steel interior container; stainless and plastic exterior * Stated operation time: Not listed; unplug when not in use * Operating temperatures: 160, 175, 195, 208°F, and vacuum * Dimensions: 11 7/8 x 9 1/8 x 12 1/2 inches * Weight: 7 pounds * Cord length: 35 inches * Care instructions:* Wipe the inner lid with a soft wet sponge; wipe the exterior with a damp well-wrung cloth; use a soft brush to clean the filter; periodically descale
Serious Eats / Will DickeyThe Competition* Zojirushi Micom Water Boiler and Warmer CD-WHC40: This model had disappointing results when it came to temperature consistency and retention from machine to mug. * Zojirushi Micom Water Boiler & Warmer CD-WCC40: While this model performed better than the Micom model above, it was still less consistent than the winning models. The temperature fluctuated three degrees over the testing period, and water was about seven degrees cooler after being dispensed than the model that kept water hottest. * Chefman Electric Hot Water Pot: This was the tallest dispenser in the lineup, to its detriment. The height resulted in excessive water splatter and was difficult to clean. It did not allow us to select different keep-warm temperatures. * NutriChef Hot Water Urn: This model had the same issues as the Chefman model. It was cheaper, but it also displayed the wildest swing in temperature over four hours of monitoring, temping at 183, 185, 195, and 186°F. We missed the keep-warm function on this model, too. * Tiger Electric Water Boiler and Warmer: The Tiger Electric Water Boiler was just edged out of a winning spot in the lineup. It retained heat well, but the temperature varied by two degrees throughout the four-hour testing period (a minor quibble, but still more than the winners). The water stream was somewhat splattery, but this is still a solid option, especially if it’s on sale. * CUCKOO Hot Water Dispenser and Warmer: The Cuckoo model did not maintain a consistent temperature over the testing period. We found the lid to be prone to misalignment, and the inability to completely remove the lid made dumping out extra water annoying.
FAQsWhat is a hot water dispenser?A hot water dispenser is a countertop appliance that heats a large volume of water to a boil and keeps the water warm for several hours. Hot water dispensers are useful in a home or office setting and make it easy to have hot water for tea or other needs at the press of a button.
How is a hot water dispenser different from an electric tea kettle?Electric tea kettles boil a smaller amount of water than a hot water dispenser (our winning models have .9- and 1.7-liter capacities). While some electric kettles can hold water at a specific temperature, it is usually for no more than an hour. Hot water dispensers can keep water at a specific temperature for many hours.
How do you clean a hot water dispenser?Most hot water dispensers can be cleaned by wiping the exterior and interior with a damp (not wet) sponge or cloth. It's recommended to descale a hot water dispenser every two to three months to prevent or get rid of any mineral buildup. You can use a 2:1 ratio of water to citric acid in most cases.
Are hot water dispensers worth it?If you make tea multiple times a day, a hot water dispenser may be more convenient for you than an electric kettle or a traditional kettle. The Panasonic Electric Thermo Pot Water Boiler Dispenser may be good for someone seeking a small, affordable dispenser, whereas a household with multiple users may prefer the larger size and additional functions that the Zojirushi VE Hybrid Water Boiler or Zojirushi Panorama Window Micom Water Boiler and Warmer provide.
Why We’re the Experts* Katy O’Hara is a writer and editor. * She has a master's in publishing from Emerson College. * In addition to Serious Eats, she has written for America’s Test Kitchen and Allrecipes. * For this review, she tested nine hot water dispensers by examining their accuracy and how long they kept water hot. We also tested their usability, paying attention to how easy it was to fill and empty each model.
Vicky WasikWhen I was a kid, the best part of celebrating Christmas at my grandparents’ home was stuffing my face with the seemingly endless supply of poached shrimp. I’d park myself next to their walnut coffee table and tease my uncles, dunking shrimp after shrimp in horseradish-zippy cocktail sauce, and there was something about the sheer amount I’d consume that made it all feel special.
What I didn’t realize at the time was why there was so much shrimp—shrimp was relatively cheap. And up until the day I read the AP’s Pulitzer Prize-winning 2016 investigation into the abusive practices of the fishing industry in Southeast Asia, I didn’t fully understand the true costs of that cheap shrimp.
But it’s not just shrimp: The big business of seafood is a quagmire of all kinds of ethical triplines.
According to the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization, over 3.3 billion people around the world rely on seafood as a primary source of protein, and as our population and catching efficiency have rapidly grown, seafood populations have become endangered due to overfishing and other questionable practices. Seafood Watch, the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s advocacy program for sustainable seafood, notes that fishing industries are pushing an eye-popping 90 percent of fish populations to their sustainable limits—and fish stocks have plummeted from 90 percent of biologically sustainable levels in 1974 to 65 percent in 2017. Farmed seafood, which accounts for 50 percent of all seafood eaten today, presents its own host of problems, as some farming methods can negatively affect the environment.
If you want to use your purchasing power to address the problem directly, Seafood Watch rates some 300 different species with 2,000 recommendations, which you can search on their website or reference in their wallet-sized guides for the most popular options by region (Alaskan cod: Best Choice! Gilnet-caught Pacific cod: Avoid!). For my beloved shrimp cocktail, for example, I switched from big, cheapo bags of shrimp of questionable origin to beautiful American-caught beauties from a seafood counter that’s certified sustainable. Sure, they’re more expensive, but they’re leagues tastier, too, and I’ve learned to savor them instead of gulping them down.
But there’s a whole world of seafood choices beyond shrimp, and the many recommendations can be a lot to take in when you’re rushing to pick up stuff for dinner.
“Protein sources from the sea are much more complicated than species from the land,” says Ryan Bigelow, Seafood Watch Senior Program Manager. I talked to him to suss out some simple ways to think about buying sustainable seafood.
Look for Sustainable CertificationIf you have difficulty remembering whether the better choice is Atlantic cod or Alaskan cod, striped bass or farmed bass, or Florida blue crab or Maryland blue crab—it’s the latter choice in each case—your best bet is to shop at a store that displays sustainable seafood certifications.
“You want to go to a store that has a publicly available commitment to sustainable seafood,” says Bigelow. Seafood Watch recommends certifications from the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), the Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC), Friend of the Sea, Naturland, Global Aquaculture Alliance Best Aquaculture Practices, and Canada Organic Organic Aquaculture Standard as being equivalent to its own ratings of “good choice” seafood. Whole Foods, for example, relies on both MSC certification and Seafood Watch recommendations to ensure its seafood is sustainably and responsibly sourced.
Certification programs are designed to incentivize seafood producers to adopt better practices, and, as such, each certification has guidelines for how to display their logos prominently to customers. If you don’t see any certification logos on the seafood selection at your store, it can actually help to ask whether any of the seafood options available at are certified sustainable. “We found the most important thing a consumer can do is to just ask for sustainable seafood,” says Bigelow. “One of the chief reasons that businesses make sustainable changes is that their customers are asking for it. Your voice matters.” Any one dinner, says Bigelow, is a drop in the bucket, but urging your local grocery store to switch to responsible sourcing has market-level repercussions.
Make Shellfish Your Go-To“Shellfish are great,” says Bigelow. “Not all perfect, but [generally] very sustainable.” Clams, mussels, and oysters, as well as scallops and cockles, are all farmed sustainably in the US. Bivalves grow quickly and easily, don’t require waste-producing fertilizer or feed, and filter nutrients from the water. “They leave the environment cleaner than it was, they take up very little room,” says Bigelow.
Be Wary of Shrimp, Salmon, and TunaVicky WasikSome of the most popular species are, for that very reason, often the most complicated to buy. Conscientious shoppers therefore have to be much choosier. “If a deal is too good to be true, that’s a red flag, especially with cheap shrimp,” says Bigelow.
If you’re trying to buy sustainably harvested salmon, look for wild-caught salmon or some kind of certification for farmed salmon, which too often has issues with disease, overuse of chemicals, and environmental impact.
For tuna, you’ll want to pay close attention to the Seafood Watch and MSC recommendations. For example, pole-caught skipjack tuna is a sustainable option, while bluefin tuna—drastically overfished—is one of the worst options for conscientious shoppers.
And if you can’t tell whether the tuna, shrimp, or salmon you’re buying has been sustainably raised or caught, it’s best to simply walk away and choose something else for dinner.
Pay Attention to Harvesting MethodThere are many ways to harvest fish from the ocean and, as a general rule of thumb, if the method is highlighted prominently at the store, it’s likely a sustainable practice. Conversely, if there’s no information about the catch method, it’s likely unsustainable or environmentally damaging.
The main concerns about fishing methods are the amount of bycatch they produce—the marine animals caught alongside the fish being harvested for the market—and the damage they inflict on marine habitats. Bottom trawls (cone-shaped nets) that are dragged along the seafloor to harvest large quantities of fish, are particularly bad offenders on both fronts; bottom trawls alone catch 4 million tons of bycatch annually.
Seines (long nets) dragged behind boats and gilnets (invisible netting that can drift or be stationary) both have bycatch issues, while gilnets and longlines (lines with baited hooks buoyed by floats that can extend for 50 miles) can end up catching endangered species, like sea turtles and sharks. However, since there are ways to mitigate the amount of bycatch produced and the extent of the environmental damage, those extensively researched certifications can come in handy.
Two age-old fishing methods are your best bets today: the harpoon and the pole-and-line with a hook and bait. Only a single fish can be caught at a time with these methods, and they don’t damage marine habitats. Trolling lines, where multiple fishing lines are dragged behind a moving boat, are almost as good; fishermen can quickly release any unwanted species they happen to catch.
Aquaculture Can Be Sustainable or DestructiveWhile aquaculture may seem like a good sustainable source for seafood, the devil is in the details. For example, growing fish like tilapia in open ocean pens may be sustainable if they’re managed properly, but crowded pens can produce a fair amount of waste and can also result in the proliferation of diseases and parasites that then spread to other ocean life. Another issue is that some farms use wild fish to feed farmed fish, which increases the overfishing pressure on wild fish.
Here, again, it’s best to look for those well-researched and vetted certifications for farmed seafood products instead of hoping that “farmed” label on a piece of fish at the store necessarily means it was sustainably raised.
Eat Sea Vegetables
“Seaweed farming is a great thing,” says Bigelow. “I wish Americans consumed more.” While some fish aquaculture focuses on mitigating its own environmental pollution, seaweed actually improves environmental health by sucking up greenhouse gases like carbon dioxide, nitrogen, and phosphorus from the water and using it to grow. It can also help de-acidify the ocean. Start incorporating more seaweed salad, miso shiru, and miyeok-guk into your diet and you won’t just be minimizing the devastation of fish populations, you’ll be helping out the planet.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezA BLT wants for nothing, but, like a bored emperor, it can still expand its dominance by conquering new realms. I'd argue that of all the possible conquests a classic bacon, lettuce, and tomato can make, the incorporation of the savory, briny, salty flavors of a Caesar salad is one of most devastatingly delicious. The result is admittedly an umami kick to the tongue, but in a good way—it's a wild ride on a rocket to flavor-space.
You start with all the BLT basics: toasted sandwich bread, smoky, crispy bacon, refreshing and crunchy lettuce (except here, in honor of the Caesar, we let romaine take the place of iceberg), and juicy, sweet summer tomatoes. But now you power that up with briny anchovies, forming the culinary equivalent of a political marriage between empires. Do you, bacon of the land, take anchovies—the bacon of the sea—to be your lawfully wedded power-partner? Yes, yes we do.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBecause this whole exercise is about reaching utter flavor-dominance over the lands, we don't stop there. We add shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano for a sweet-salty blast of umami and replace regular mayonnaise with dollops of Caesar mayo, which is really just a thicker Caesar dressing packed with more Parm, anchovies, black pepper, and Worcestershire. (Note, though, that I offer the option in the recipe of using regular mayo; it won't be the same, but there's enough going on in this sandwich that switching to plain mayo isn't going to ruin anything.) The Caesar mayo, anchovies, and Parm add a lot of salt to this sandwich, so I don't recommend salting the tomatoes as we would for a regular BLT—you need them to cut the salt, not add to it.
The real power play that turns this sandwich into more than just a lazy BLT twist is what I do with the sandwich bread: I encrust one side of each slice in a cracker-crisp frico shell of golden Parmigiano-Reggiano, creating a perfectly crouton-like cheesy-bread bite.
Could this sandwich replace a BLT? No, never—it has too strong of a personality for that. But when you want to gild the royal-sandwich lily, this is the move.
Place a griddle or skillet over medium-low heat. Add bacon and place a bacon press, skillet, or masonry trowel on top of it to keep it flat as it cooks. Cook until lightly browned on first side, about 5 minutes, then flip, cover again, and continue cooking until bacon is browned on both sides and fat has rendered, about 3 minutes longer. Transfer bacon to a paper towel–lined plate and set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLightly drizzle bread slices on both sides with olive oil. In a large nonstick skillet, spread half the cheese in a thin circle just slightly larger than a bread slice (if your skillet is large enough you can make two circles of cheese and toast both bread slices at once). Set over medium heat and cook until cheese just starts to melt. Press one bread slice into the cheese and continue to cook until cheese is just starting to turn golden around the edges, about 3 minutes; increase heat to medium-high if the cheese isn't melting and browning fast enough.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPush cheese in around the sides of the bread and continue to cook until cheese is golden all over, about 4 minutes longer. Flip bread and lightly toast on second side, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a work surface, cheese side up (this prevents it from steaming and softening). Repeat with remaining cheese and bread.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpread a generous slather of mayo on both non-cheese sides of bread. Arrange tomatoes on top of one of the bread slices (season with salt and pepper if not using Caesar mayonnaise). Cut bacon in half crosswise and arrange slices on top of tomatoes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTop with thinly shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano, anchovy fillets, and romaine lettuce. Close sandwiches, cut in half on the diagonal, and serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNotesIf making multiple sandwiches, you can save time by cooking the bacon in the oven sandwiched between two baking sheets; read how to bake bacon for a crowd here.
Serious Eats / Two BitesI always know a recipe I'm developing is a success if I see my husband lingering at the kitchen counter sneaking bites when he thinks I’m not looking. (This is especially true if I have already made several different versions of the same dish—the winner is always the one my husband returns to over and over.) In this case, it’s garlic and herb croutons, which I think of as smaller, crispier versions of garlic bread. Croutons are a great way to use up stale bread you may have, and they’re easy to prepare. They bring a savory crunch to salads and soups, and are also delicious on their own as a snack—my husband keeps them in a bowl on his desk and eats them like popcorn.
To add maximum garlic and woodsy herb flavor to the croutons, I use the same method Kenji employs for his best-ever roasted potatoes: I heat the fresh garlic, rosemary, and thyme in olive oil until the garlic just begins to brown, then I strain the solids out and use the infused oil to coat the croutons. You get all the flavor of the aromatics without any risk of them burning during the toasting process, which can give the croutons an unpleasant bitterness. When the croutons are done, I reincorporate the garlic and herbs, tossing to ensure the croutons are evenly coated with the fragrant aromatics.
As in my recipe for plain croutons, I recommend using a crusty loaf of bread like sourdough, ciabatta, or baguette, which become satisfyingly crisp when turned into croutons. While sandwich bread and brioche are great for other applications, in my tests I found that their subtle sweetness didn't work very well with the savory flavors I wanted in my croutons. But feel free to use whatever you have on hand—with sweeter loaves like brioche or milk bread, you might just have to adjust for seasoning. No matter what kind of bread you use, the croutons will still be delicious, and you may very well find yourself eating them by the handful.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350ºF (175ºC).
Add bread to a large bowl. In a small saucepan, combine olive oil with garlic, rosemary, and thyme. Cook over medium heat, stirring and shaking pan constantly, until garlic just begins to turn golden, about 3 minutes. Immediately strain oil through a fine-mesh strainer over large bowl with bread; reserve and set aside garlic and herb mixture.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezToss bread with oil, salt, and pepper to evenly coat. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet and spread into an even layer. Bake, stirring every 5 minutes, until croutons are golden brown and crisp, about 20 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRemove from oven and cool completely at room temperature before serving or storing, about 20 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentSmall saucepan, fine-mesh strainer, rimmed baking sheet
Make-Ahead and StorageThe croutons can be kept in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.
Serious Eats / Two BitesRoasting reveals all the best parts of a potato: crispy skin, crunchy edges, and a soft, fluffy center. A mound of roasted potatoes simply seasoned with salt and pepper is my favorite comfort food. But, if you dress them up with the tangy, briny, cheesy flavors of a great Caesar salad dressing, this near-perfect food becomes even better.
Combining the key ingredients of a rich and savory Caesar dressing—anchovies, garlic, lemon, Worcestershire sauce, and Parmesan cheese—with potatoes is a no-brainer: Potatoes are the ultimate starchy blank canvas for big bold flavors. To create this happy union, I start with Kenji’s famous crispy potatoes.
Serious Eats / Two BitesLike many of our readers, I’m a big fan of these spuds —it’s a foolproof recipe that needs no improvement. His potatoes incorporate the British method for roasting potatoes: Chunks of potato are boiled until they're just tender, then tossed none-too-gently with fat (here olive oil) to rough up their surface, then roasted until they're crisp and crackling. It’s simple and produces amazing results. I make them routinely at home, whether it’s just for my family’s simple Sunday night supper or for a large holiday gathering. But I’d be lying if I said that these simple potatoes don’t sometimes get (dare I say it), a bit repetitive. But with Kenji’s technique, it’s easy to incorporate other flavors to the roasted potatoes, without compromising the potatoes texture. I’ve tried and tested many flavor combinations at home, and this Caesar flavor variation is my favorite yet.
In Kenji’s recipe, he heats garlic and rosemary in some olive oil, cooks the mixture until the garlic just turns golden, strains it, and separates the infused oil from the solids. The potatoes are then coated with the flavored oil before roasting, and the reserved cooked aromatics are tossed with the crispy potatoes after they’re roasted. This eliminates the risk of burning the solids while roasting.
Following this method to incorporate the savory Caesar flavor into these potatoes, I gently cook anchovies, garlic, and lemon zest in olive oil until the anchovies melt, the garlic begins to brown, and the lemon zest infuses the oil with its bright citrus flavor. The result is a salty, umami-rich, and zippy olive oil that I toss with the potatoes before roasting. The other Caesar ingredients—Worchestershire sauce, more lemon zest, plus lemon juice for a hit of fresh flavor, and plenty of nutty Parmesan cheese—are tossed with the hot potatoes right after roasting.
I add a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese as a final flourish just before serving this low-effort, high-reward spin on classic roasted potatoes. Serve them as a side to an impressive roast or as a starter or party snack with a side of creamy Caesar dip for dunking, because I’m a firm believer that you can never have too much Caesar.
Serious Eats / Two BitesAdjust oven rack to center position and preheat oven to 450°F (230°C) or 400°F (200°C) if using convection. In a large pot, heat 2 quarts (2L) water over high heat until boiling. Add 2 tablespoons kosher salt (about 1 ounce; 25g), baking soda, and potatoes and stir. Return to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook until a knife meets little resistance when inserted into a potato chunk, about 10 minutes after returning to a boil.
Serious Eats / Two BitesMeanwhile, combine olive oil, anchovies, garlic, 1/4 teaspoon lemon zest, and a few grinds of black pepper in a small saucepan and heat over medium heat. Cook, stirring and shaking pan constantly, until garlic just begins to turn golden and anchovies break down, 1 to 3 minutes. Immediately strain oil through a fine-mesh strainer set in a large bowl. Set garlic/anchovy mixture aside and reserve separately.
Serious Eats / Two BitesWhen potatoes are cooked, drain carefully, return to the pot off heat, and let them rest in the pot for about 30 seconds to allow excess moisture to evaporate. Transfer to the bowl with the infused oil, season to taste with a little more salt and pepper, and toss to coat, shaking bowl roughly, until a thick layer of mashed potato–like paste has built up on the potato chunks.
Serious Eats / Two BitesTransfer potatoes to a large rimmed baking sheet and separate them, spreading them out evenly. Transfer to the oven and roast, without moving, for 20 minutes. Using a thin, flexible metal spatula to release any stuck potatoes, shake pan and turn potatoes. Continue roasting until potatoes are deep brown and crisp all over, turning and shaking them a few times during cooking, 30 to 40 minutes longer.
Serious Eats / Two BitesIn a large bowl, whisk to combine the reserved garlic/anchovy mixture, remaining 1/4 teaspoon lemon zest, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, and parsley. Transfer potatoes to the large bowl, sprinkle with Parmigiano-Reggiano, and toss until the potatoes are coated evenly. Season with more salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a serving platter, sprinkle with additional Parmigiano-Reggiano, if desired, and serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Two BitesSpecial EquipmentSmall saucepan
NotesRusset potatoes will produce crisper crusts and fluffier centers. Yukon Golds will be slightly less crisp and have creamier centers, with a darker color and deeper flavor. You can also use a mix of the two.
The potatoes should be cut into very large chunks, at least 2 to 3 inches or so. For medium-sized Yukon Golds, this means cutting them in half crosswise, then splitting each half again to make quarters. For larger Yukon Golds or russets, you can cut the potatoes into chunky sixths or eighths.
Serious Eats / Two BitesI love making Caesar salad for guests when I host dinner parties. It’s a guaranteed crowd-pleaser that’s relatively easy to assemble. But as with many of the dishes I make, I enjoy incorporating my own twist on the standard version. A traditional Caesar salad is all about the balance of the garlicky, savory dressing with crisp lettuce, salty Parmesan cheese and crunchy croutons. It is near perfect in its simplicity, but when those elements are combined with sweet, roasted summer vegetables, the classic salad is transformed into a robust, eye-catching dish that's perfect for a light summer dinner at home, a fancy dinner party, or a casual cookout.
Serious Eats / Two BitesIn this fun, reimagined Caesar, I’ve taken the core elements of the classic salad and adjusted them slightly: Instead of crunchy romaine, I use tender leaf lettuce, and I swap the classic egg-emulsified Caesar dressing for an easy and light Caesar vinaigrette that doubles as a marinade for the vegetables. This is all tossed together with a medley of hearty roasted vegetables that includes broccolini, cremini mushrooms, red bell pepper, and onion. Here are a few tips for making my roasted vegetable Caesar salad at home.
Tips for a Savory and Satisfying Roasted Vegetable Caesar SaladChoose vegetables that cook at the same rate and add a variety of flavors to the salad. When developing this recipe, I tested a variety of vegetables to land on the ones I've included in my recipe below. While roasted zucchini and tomatoes were delicious on their own, their high moisture content made the final salad too watery. I also tried versions with roasted potatoes and sweet potatoes, but they were too substantial and filling for the summery salad I was looking for, and the tender, fluffy potatoes didn’t provide the crisp texture that was lost without the romaine.
After many batches of roasting, I selected a mixture of broccolini, red bell pepper, yellow onion, and cremini mushrooms. This blend of vegetables provides a balance of complex flavors when roasted—the broccolini and mushrooms get toasty and slightly charred while the natural sweetness of the onions and peppers is enhanced. When these veggies are tossed with lettuce, the Caesar vinaigrette, and shaved Parmesan, you get an alternative to the classic Caesar that is perfect for a light summer meal.
Skip the classic emulsified Caesar dressing and make a vinaigrette instead. The recipe starts by making a homemade Caesar vinaigrette. I say vinaigrette instead of dressing because it uses only mustard as the emulsifier instead of egg yolk, which is used in classic Caesar salad dressing. It makes for a lighter vinaigrette that can be used two ways: to season the chopped vegetables before roasting and to dress the salad before serving. Not only do I prefer the lighter flavor of this vinaigrette with the final dish, there's also a practical reason to skip the egg yolk: Since some of the vinaigrette is tossed with the vegetables before they are cooked, including egg yolk would result in cooked egg clinging to your roasted vegetables—not what you want in a salad!
Serious Eats / Two BitesPreheat the baking sheet for better browning on the vegetables. Roasting deepens the vegetables’ flavors and brings out their sweet, savory notes. The cooking process concentrates the flavor by evaporating moisture, converting its complex carbohydrates to sugars, then caramelizing those sugars. This is the Maillard reaction—the series of chemical reactions that occur when proteins and sugars in food are transformed by heat—and it helps produce complex, bittersweet flavors. To ensure this process occurs, and that the Maillard reaction produces a well browned flavorful exterior at the same rate as the interior of vegetables turn tender-crisp, get your rimmed baking sheet hot in the oven before adding the vegetables to jump-start the browning. The broccolini florets, chopped mushrooms, bell pepper, and onions are small enough that, assuming you don't overcrowd the baking sheet, they will sizzle and sear on contact with the hot baking sheet.
Substitute tender leaf lettuce for the classic romaine. The lettuce selection here is important. I wanted greens that could hold up to a pungent dressing and the roasted summer vegetables, but without the crunch of romaine, to allow the texture of the roasted vegetables to shine. I found that baby green leaf lettuce is perfectly crisp yet tender. I have a preferred local brand of greenhouse-grown baby greens that I use, but I recommend looking in your grocery store or local farmers market for lettuce that is substantial enough to not get lost in the roasted vegetables, yet not so hearty (like kale or escarole) that it overpowers the salad. Gem lettuce and baby romaine are great options for this salad.
Don’t skimp on the Parmesan cheese. For a salty, savory bite, whisk grated Parmesan into the vinaigrette and also finish the salad with larger shards of cheese. I recommend using a vegetable peeler to shave long, thin pieces of salty Parmesan cheese onto the tossed salad. The cheese is more than just a garnish. It’s a substantial bite that ties together the pungent Caesar vinaigrette with the sweet and slightly toasty roasted vegetables. The final salad may not look like a classic Caesar, but I’d argue that it might taste even better than the original.
Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and preheat the oven to 500℉ (260℃). Set a rimmed baking sheet in the oven while the oven preheats.
Serious Eats / Two BitesPlace anchovies and garlic in a small pile on a cutting board and sprinkle with salt. Roughly chop the anchovies and garlic, then use the side of a chef's knife to mash the mixture into a paste, about 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Two BitesTransfer mixture to a large mixing bowl and add lemon juice, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, and black pepper and whisk to combine. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil while continuing to whisk to form an emulsion. Whisk in the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Remove 6 tablespoons of the vinaigrette to a small bowl and set aside; reserve the remaining vinaigrette (about 2 tablespoons) in the large mixing bowl.
Serious Eats / Two BitesAdd broccolini, mushrooms, bell pepper, and onion to the large mixing bowl with the reserved 2 tablespoons vinaigrette and toss until well coated.
Serious Eats / Two BitesCarefully transfer the coated vegetables to the preheated baking sheet in an even layer and roast until the vegetables are tender and slightly browned around the edges, 18 to 25 minutes, stirring halfway through. Let the vegetables cool slightly on the sheet tray at room temperature for about 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn the now-empty large mixing bowl, combine the lettuce and the cooled roasted vegetables. Drizzle with 4 tablespoons of the reserved dressing and toss well to coat. Transfer mixture to a serving platter and top with shaved Parmesan and Caesar bread crumbs, if using. Drizzle with more dressing, if desired.
Serious Eats / Two BitesSpecial EquipmentKitchen scale, rimmed baking sheet, aluminum foil
NotesYou can double this recipe if desired. Place racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and line two rimmed baking sheets with aluminum foil. Split the vegetables among the two baking sheets and rotate racks from upper to lower position halfway through cooking.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe Caesar vinaigrette and roasted vegetables can be prepared up to two days ahead. Store the vinaigrette and vegetables in separate airtight containers in the refrigerator. Remove the vegetables and vinaigrette from the refrigerator 30 minutes to an hour before assembling the salad. Toss the vegetables and lettuce with the dressing just before serving.
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangIn case you haven’t heard, Amazon just announced its Prime Day dates…and they’re less than three weeks away (July 16 and 17!). There are bound to be deals, steals, and sales aplenty. Suffice it to say, we’re excited. Just like you, dearest reader, we wait all year to grab the Vitamix we’ve been eying, the kitchen towels we love for less than a dollar a piece, and an espresso machine that’ll fuel equipment reviews and recipe testing for years to come.
The good news is that you don’t have to wait for Prime Day. There are some truly excellent deals already out there. We should know: We sorted through pages and pages of sales to bring you 10 that we think are worth buying.
The Absolute Best Blender: Vitamix 5200 Professional-Grade BlenderAmazonWe’ve quite actually recommended this Vitamix blender since 2014 when Kenji first reviewed it. Its tapered jar sucks ingredients down into its blades, creating a vortex that produces super-smooth sauces, purees, smoothies, etc, etc, etc. Its controls are simple, too: just a couple of switches and a dial. It’s everything you need and nothing you don’t—and it’s 26% off.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyOne of the Best Sous Vide Machines: Anova Culinary Sous Vide Precision CookerAmazonSlow and steady wins the sous vide race. This Anova Precision Cooker has been a longtime Serious Eats favorite. (Note: We currently recommend the 2.0 version, but will be testing the 3.0 one soon…it looks identical). It’s accurate, heats up water fairly quickly, and has an onboard display and a compatible app. Right now, it’s 36% off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe Best Sparkling Water Maker: SodaStream ArtAmazonOur favorite soda maker not only makes the best bubbles but features a cage-style CO2 loading system (much easier than inserting it into the bottom of the machine) and a sleek look, so you’ll actually want to keep it on the countertop. This on-sale bundle even comes with CO2 cartridges.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe Best Hand Mixer: Breville the Handy Mix ScraperAmazonWe called this “the Cadillac of hand mixers” in our review. It has every feature you could want, including rubber-coated beaters, a built-in timer, a digital display, and a light that shines into the mixing bowl. Right now, it’s $50 off.
Serious Eats / Afton CyrusThe Best Wok: Yosukata Carbon Steel Wok Pan AmazonPre-seasoned and with solid heat responsiveness (what you need for stir-frying), our favorite flat-bottomed, carbon steel wok is reasonably priced and has a slick surface. We like its wooden handle that stays cool even on high heat and its extra helper handle. Don’t forget to clip the extra 5% off coupon before adding it to your cart for the full discount.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe Best Gas Grill: Weber Spirit II E-310 3-Burner Gas GrillAmazonIf someone were to ask us, generally, what gas grill they should get, the Weber Spirit II E-310 would be our answer. It has three burners, two side tables, tool hooks, and two large wheels for easily moving it. In our tests, it ignited easily every single time. Plus, you’ll get Weber’s truly phenomenal customer service.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe Best Dish Towels: Zeppoli Classic Kitchen TowelsAmazonEvery cook needs a stack of super-cheap, versatile kitchen towels they don’t care much about. These towels are exactly that, boasting a 141% absorbency rate in our tests—ideal for using as pot holders, mopping up spills, or drying herbs. Clip the coupon for 20% off right now, which makes the towels just a little over $1/piece.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyA Pellet-Powered Pizza Oven: Ninja WoodFire Outdoor Pizza OvenAmazonThis is like a hybrid between a pizza oven and a pellet grill. In our tests, it didn’t get as hot as our other winners, but it yielded nice, slightly smokey pies. It has a range of other settings, too, like roasting (we’re interested in trying a whole chicken in it). We also liked its clearly labeled digital control panel.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonOne of Our Favorite (Cheap!) Chef’s Knives: Mercer Culinary Genesis 8-Inch Chef’s KnifeAmazonWith a grippy, rubber handle and a super, super sharp blade, this is a steal of a chef’s knife. We’ve recommended it for many years and it’ll serve you well for slicing and dicing.
Serious Eats/Dera BurresonThe Best Vacuum Sealer: Anova Precision Vacuum Sealer ProAmazonWith built-in bag storage and a bag cutter, moist and dry settings, and no refractory period (that’s the wait time in between sealings), this vacuum sealer is our favorite for a reason. Right now, it’s $50 off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonFAQsWhen is Prime Day 2024?According to Amazon, Prime Day 2024 will be on July 16 and 17 (that’s a Tuesday and Wednesday!).
Do you have to be a Prime member to shop Prime Day?Yes, you do have to be an Amazon Prime member to shop Prime Day sales. You can sign up here (including a 30-day free trial).
Why We’re the Experts* Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm is the senior commerce editor at Serious Eats. * She’s been with the site since 2021 and previously worked for America’s Test Kitchen and Food52. * Riddley's been reviewing gear professionally for about six years.
Serious Eats / David HattanAs an avid baker, former pastry cook, and editor at Serious Eats, I am often asked what my favorite baking cookbook is. My response is always the same: It depends on what you’re looking for. Is it sourdough baking, elegant desserts, or one-bowl cookies that pique your interest?
Below, I’ve gathered a list of what I consider the best baking cookbooks. Some are technique-driven and will help you form a foundational understanding of baking science, while others offer great, minimal-effort recipes. A few of these books, filled with intricate baking projects, make you feel like you’re on the Great British Bake Off. There’s a book for every occasion, and regardless of which you choose, I promise the titles below will inspire you to whisk, whip, and knead.
The Best Books for Baking TechniqueFormer biochemist Shirley Corriher’s BakeWise is an essential book for anyone who wants to better understand the science of baking. Through more than 200 tried-and-true recipes, Corriher walks readers through common pitfalls, like deflated soufflés, seized chocolate, and broken custard. Like our very own site, Corriher explains why each recipe and solution provided works and breaks down the science in an accessible, enjoyable way.
At the beginning of my professional culinary career, I devoured all of Rose Levy Beranbaum’s books. (Her most recent book, The Cookie Bible, is also one of my go-to’s.) If I had to pick one RLB book to recommend, though, it would be The Baking Bible, as it’s the broadest of her works. Her recipes are concise, her testing meticulous, and her writing conversational. I feel like I’m baking alongside an old friend. Follow her directions and you’ll find yourself whipping up bakery-worthy layer cakes, cookies, and pies. (If you are a chocolate lover, you can’t go wrong with the Double Damage Oblivion, Beranbaum’s deliciously rich flourless chocolate cake.)
If you have ever embarked on sourdough baking, you have likely heard of Chad Robertson, the baker behind San Francisco’s renowned Tartine Bakery, which is also the name of his book. Writing for Vogue, reporter Oliver Strand described Tartine Bread as “a masterpiece along the lines of a Martin Scorsese tracking shot or a Marcel Proust sentence: It goes on forever, and when you get to the end you realize it shouldn’t be any shorter.” The book is filled with intricate details and instructions on how to develop your own starter and baking practice, and, at times, the recipes can be intimidating. Roberton’s Basic Country Bread runs 38 pages—but follow through, and you’ll find yourself making crusty loaves with incredible flavor.
In pastry chef Nicola Lamb’s newsletter Kitchen Projects, she shares “deep dives” into desserts, where she walks her 53,000 readers through the trial and error that goes into developing a recipe. She takes the same methodical, detailed approach in her book Sift, which she describes as the book she wishes she had when she first started baking. Lamb explains how flour, sugar, eggs, and fat interact in baked goods. It’s a very Serious Eats-y book, and if you want to understand not just how—but why—something happens during baking, Sift is the book for you. (Editor’s note: This book will be released in November 2024, but it’s available for pre-order.)
After reading Tartine Bread, software engineer Maurizio Leo found himself enamored with sourdough baking. Leo started his blog The Perfect Loaf in 2012 and has since inspired readers worldwide to take up sourdough. Every recipe in Leo's book is accompanied by a timeline, which not only helps bakers better understand how long things should take but allows them to plan ahead. The book is a comprehensive and straightforward guide to making great sourdough; readers will find step-by-step photos, QR codes for videos demonstrating key techniques, and answers to many frequently asked questions. His advice and recipes have helped me make many successful loaves, and The Perfect Loaf is the first book I recommend when someone tells me they’d like to become better at baking sourdough bread.
Serious Eats / David HattanIn 2000, King Arthur Baking Company opened their school in Vermont, where they began teaching students key baking techniques. The recipes in this book are the same ones taught at their school, with additional notes and details to educate readers on the hows and whys of baking. “We aim to empower students with the knowledge and confidence to make baking their own,” says the author’s note in the introduction. The book’s recipes range in difficulty; you’ll find simple cookies alongside challenging projects like croissants and macarons.
As with all things Cook’s Illustrated, the recipes within this book are tried-and-true. The Cook’s Illustrated Baking Book is educational without being overbearing, and great for those casually interested in learning more about baking. My only criticism is that there aren't weight measures and all the recipes are in volume. Baking requires precision, so it seems silly not to include weights. Still, it’s a comprehensive book with foolproof recipes that I’d be remiss not to include. The tips within—like blooming cocoa powder in hot water to intensify its flavor for chocolate cake—are invaluable and make you a better, smarter baker.
At one of my first restaurant jobs, a baker I worked with recommended this book to me. Written by the founder of the San Francisco Baking Institute, Advanced Bread and Pastry is a textbook for culinary professionals and ideal for those who are interested in a rigorous approach to baking. You’ll find graphs, charts, and illustrations to demonstrate the nitty gritty science and chemistry of baking. In other words: the perfect baking book for the Serious Eats reader.
Diving into bread baking can be overwhelming, but Ken Forkish’s Flour Water Salt Yeast makes it feel intuitive. When I first started making bread, Forkish’s book helped me better understand the science of fermentation and all the jargon it came with, like autolyse and pre-ferments. For novice bread bakers interested in learning the ropes, most of this book’s recipes use instant dried yeast as a leavener, which is easier and faster than sourdough.
Before Melissa Weller became a pastry chef, she was a chemical engineer. Weller approaches her craft with the meticulous precision of her former occupation—which means her recipes are scientifically formulated to work every single time. Weller walks readers through how to set themselves up for success and breaks each recipe into different sections, making tedious projects like croissants, crêpe cakes, and brioche feel doable.
Serious Eats / David HattanWhen I first started my culinary career, I turned to Pfeiffer’s book for a better grasp of pastry and baking basics. Pfeiffer, the co-founder of The French Pastry School in Chicago, educates readers like he does his own students: with plenty of detailed instruction and patience. Throughout the book, you’ll find helpful illustrations demonstrating the proper way to execute a technique, along with key takeaways, notes for frequently asked questions, and how to fix a recipe if it’s gone awry. The Art of French Pastry will coach you through the building blocks of French dessert and pâtisserie, like choux pastry, puff pastry dough, meringues, and buttercreams, and enable you to create your own confections. It’s like getting a French pastry diploma without the big price tag.
Though chocolate and confectionary work doesn’t technically qualify as baking, there’s a lot of great information in this book. It's especially handy if you want a more thorough understanding of how different sugars and fats work, why some are better for certain applications, and how to pick the best one for whatever you’re making. It also is an excellent deep dive into chocolate: its journey from bean to bar and the fundamental techniques for cooking and baking with it. There are plenty of photos and illustrations to demonstrate these techniques, and with the recipes within, you’ll be able to produce the silkiest ganaches for homemade truffles and the shiniest glazes for your cakes.
I realize this is a tome…and an expensive one, at that. But it’s full of history, science, and technique, and it is unlikely you’ll find a more detailed resource on bread. The collection is essential for anyone looking to truly understand the craft of bread baking. There’s not much more to say!
The Best Books for Everyday BakingFormer Serious Eats editor Stella Parks’ recipes and writing on baking science was what turned me into a devoted reader of the site. Her work—both on Serious Eats and in her book BraveTart—has contributed greatly to my understanding of the fundamentals of pastry and baking. In BraveTart, Parks shares recipes for some of America’s most iconic confections, along with their origin stories. “This isn’t a cookbook about making anything fancy,” she writes in the book’s introduction. “It’s about making everything from scratch. Not because you have to, but because it’s fun. Or, at least, it can be, with the right recipes: one that cares about the process as much as the result.” Bake through the book, and soon many of these American desserts—like no-fuss apple pie, yeast-raised potato doughnuts, and homemade Nilla wafers—will become classics in your kitchen, too.
Benjamina Ebuehi, a former contestant on the Great British Bake Off, understands that good baking doesn’t have to be complicated. A Good Day to Bake is all about baking for pleasure; Ebuehi encourages readers to slow down so they can enjoy the process of creating in the kitchen. Though the recipes are approachable, they don’t skimp on flavor. Fresh herbs, fruits, and vegetables—along with pantry staples like spices and teas—star in each recipe. The simple loaves, cakes, and cookies evoke comfort and coziness. I adore Ebuhi’s malted milk crème brûlée and “store-cupboard cake,” which requires just a few pantry staples and gets its deep flavor from cocoa powder and instant espresso.
Before Mooncakes and Milk Bread came along, I had never considered making Chinese baked goods. Cho’s book shares recipes for many Chinese bakery classics, like fluffy pineapple buns and curry chicken puffs. Cho seamlessly walks readers through culinary and baking techniques, and thanks to her book, I now know how to shape Taiwanese pineapple buns, make mooncakes from scratch (something rarely done even in Asia), and prepare essential components of Chinese desserts like red bean paste.
Serious Eats / David HattanAlmost every pastry professional I’ve met has sung the praises of Claudia Fleming, the former pastry chef at Gramercy Tavern. While Fleming’s first book The Last Course (which New York Times reporter Julia Moskin describes as “a cult classic among pastry chefs”) contains fancy-feeling desserts like prosecco sabayon and citrus lace tuiles, Delectable feels more approachable. For example, love its recipes for plum cobbler, rhubarb scones, and almond and walnut brownies.
Readers will find savory baking recipes, too, like her tomato crostata and Gruyère and onion cocktail biscuits. Fleming’s recipes are a celebration of seasonality, and if you have a bounty of summer produce that you have no plans for, a flip through Delectable will leave you with more than enough ideas to see you through the rest of the season.
Like Claire Saffitz, I am a dessert person. And if you aren’t a dessert person, reading Saffitz’s book will certainly turn you into one. Saffitz recognizes that baking can be intimidating, and her goal is to demystify the craft so readers can bake confidently. Each recipe has a difficulty rating, so you can start from the easiest recipes and work your way up. There are familiar favorites like chocolate chip cookies, as well as classics with a twist—think minty lime bars and rice pudding cake.
Though most of the recipes are sweet, there are savory ones, too, like her tomato tart with herby feta and caramelized endive galette. Many flourless cakes tend to be rich, but her version—which is dairy-free—is light and melts in your mouth. And if you’re looking for an everyday snacking cake to enjoy with your cup of coffee, look no further than her poppy seed almond cake, which is moist and tender, with an extra zing from an orange juice glaze.
Joanne Chang’s Flour cookbook, named after her bakery of the same name in Boston, is one I have turned to often through the years. The recipes are simple, straightforward, and—I don’t say this lightly—have never failed me. Chang’s tender banana bread, which gets moisture and tang from crème fraiche and a satisfying crunch from toasted, chopped walnuts, is my go-to. And her Best-Ever Chocolate Pudding is, well, the best-ever—really. Flour contains easy, minimal-effort recipes for pastries and desserts I’d like to eat all the time.
Arabiyya is an excellent resource on Arabic cooking, and though it is not a baking cookbook, it’s worth purchasing just for its section on Levantine bread and pastries. Arabiyya has recipes for sweet and savory items you might find at an Arabic bakery and is a wonderful guide to preparing them at home. I often make her Khobz Arabi (pita or Arab bread) to enjoy with homemade hummus, and Assil’s ka’ak—sesame-crusted bread pouches—are so delicious I’d happily eat them unfilled and without any accompaniments. For dessert, give Assil’s spiced walnut baklava a try; it’s nutty, crisp, and drenched in an orange blossom syrup, and truly one of the most delicious sweets you can make at home.
After I gave birth to my son, I relied on Yossy Arefi’s Snacking Bakes to satisfy my sweet tooth. Arefi promises that “almost every treat can be made in under one hour, in one bowl, and with no fancy ingredients or equipment”—something especially appealing to me as I navigated the immediate postpartum period. There are many recipes on the internet that promise the same, but they are often boring or disappointing. Luckily, Arefi’s baked goods are anything but, and her recipes are fun, creative uses of pantry staples. Malted milk powder gives her malted chocolate cookies extra nuttiness, and a swirl of raspberry jam through peanut butter cake recreates the nostalgic flavors of PB&J sandwiches. All the baked goods are simple enough that you can, as I did, make them with a baby strapped to you. And if you’re a novice beginner, the ease of the recipes will equip you with basic baking techniques like whisking, folding, and glazing, while also boosting your confidence as you succeed, bake after bake.
Serious Eats / David HattanReaching for that bag of all-purpose flour is convenient, but Roxanna Jullapat’s Mother Grains will inspire you to try baking with other flours. Jullapat, the baker behind Friends & Family in Los Angeles, makes the case for baking with locally grown and freshly milled grains. Because most of these grains are stone-ground and still contain the germ, bran, and endosperm—parts of the wheat berry that are typically sifted out when producing all-purpose flour—they are more nutritious, too.
Though there are numerous grains, Jullapat’s book focuses on eight: barley, buckwheat, corn, oat, rice, rye, sorghum, and wheat. Mother Grains will help readers develop a greater understanding of and appreciation for these cereals. If you love oatmeal raisin cookies, give her oatmeal date cookies a whirl—the chopped Medjool dates give them a rich caramel-like flavor. And if you’re a chocolate fiend, then the chocolate dynamite cookies with earthy rye and bittersweet chocolate chips are for you.
Beloved for her charm and approachable recipes, Dorie Greenspan is the darling of the baking world. A Dorie cookbook has never failed me; her cocoa-packed world peace cookies from Dorie’s Cookies remain one of my favorite treats. Baking With Dorie is a comprehensive book with both sweet and savory recipes that all have fun twists. Greenspan transforms choux dough—traditionally used for cream puffs, éclairs, and gougères—into cheese sticks, and swirls miso paste and maple syrup into a loaf reminiscent of honey cake. Her flavor-packed banana cake makes for an excellent celebration dessert—and though the cake itself is delicious, it’s the frosting of cookie butter spread, butter, and confectioner sugar that keeps you coming back for more. Despite the complex flavors and textures in Greenspan’s recipes, each is simple to execute and will leave you feeling like an accomplished baker.
Fany Gerson’s My Sweet Mexico is a wonderful introduction to the country’s many regional confections. While My Sweet Mexico is an excellent cookbook, Gerson, the chef and owner of Brooklyn’s popular Fan Fan Doughnuts, also provides a great resource on the culinary history of Mexico, writing about the influences—especially Spanish colonization—on Mexican cooking today. The convent cookies, which get their rich, nutty flavor from ground caramelized almonds, are the ideal pairing for a cup of coffee. And once you make Gerson’s milhojas with mango and coconut, a pastry similar to mille feuille with its flaky puff pastry layers and luscious pastry cream, you’ll find yourself craving it constantly. My favorite recipes, though, may be the frozen treats. On a hot summer day, you just can’t go wrong with the spicy mango ice pops, rich cajeta ice cream, or tart tamarind sorbet.
Erika Council’s Still We Rise is a tribute to Black bakers and chefs who have not been recognized for their contributions to American cuisine. Council, the chef behind Bomb Biscuit Co. in Atlanta, shares recipes for countless biscuits, but the book is a wonderful tribute to Black cooks and a fascinating look at American culinary history. Dotted throughout Still We Rise are stories from her childhood about her grandmothers and nods to the other culinary influences in her life. There is no better cookbook to turn to if you love flaky, tender biscuits—the heavy cream biscuits, which come together in one bowl, are incredibly soft and fluffy.
Why We’re the Experts Genevieve Yam is the culinary editor at Serious Eats. She’s been with the site since 2022. In her free time, you’ll find her chatting to people about produce at the farmers market and burying her nose in cookbooks. * Before becoming an editor, she was a cook at Per Se and Blue Hill at Stone Barns. * She has written stories and tested, edited, and developed recipes for Serious Eats, Bon Appétit*, Epicurious, and Food52.
Serious Eats / Getty ImagesWhen most people think of corn, sweet corn comes to mind—the fresh corn on the cob we like to boil or grill and slather with butter. However, of the over 90 million acres of corn planted in the US, sweet corn makes up less than 1% of the total crop. The rest is starchy and dry field corn, which is mostly used to feed cows.
Indigenous peoples originally cultivated corn's wild ancestor, teosinte, over 9,000 years ago in what is now Mexico. That corn, called maize, was more similar to field corn, as sweet corn wasn’t cultivated until the mid-1700s. The revered and versatile crop shaped the region’s culinary landscape and played a pivotal role in the history and development of North America.
Corn is a major agricultural commodity used extensively for livestock feed, biofuels, and food products. According to the Center for Food Safety, approximately 75% of processed foods on supermarket shelves contain some form of genetically engineered ingredients, and corn is a significant part of this statistic due to its widespread use in various forms such as high-fructose corn syrup, corn starch, and corn oil.
Though sweet corn and field corn are related, they aren’t the same. Sweet corn and field corn are two distinct types of corn that differ in several aspects, including their purpose, flavor, texture, and cultivation practices. To learn more about the difference between the two, I spoke with Dave Smoke-McCluskey, a Mohawk chef and owner of Corn Mafia, a micro-milling project that explores native foodways.
What Is Sweet Corn?Getty Images / Everyday better to do everything you loveThe fresh corn we enjoy grilled at cookouts and grab canned or frozen at the grocery store is sweet corn, which carries a gene that develops twice as much sugar as starchy types. “This corn has lots of natural sugars that make it delightful to eat straight off the cob or in a variety of dishes, like creamed corn,” says Smoke-McCluskey. Mexican and American cuisines (especially Southern) employ sweet corn in many dishes, including elote, corn chowder, and succotash.
Sweet corn is harvested in the summer while the kernels are still tender and juicy, before the sugar turns into starch. Smoke-McCluskey explains that sweet corn of the past had unstable sugar levels that converted into starch rapidly after harvest. “You had to eat it right away, and it tasted pretty bad by the time it got to the supermarket,” he says. “Sweet corn breeders have genetically modified today’s corn to produce much higher sugar levels and make it so that the conversion of sugar to starch occurs much slower,” which is a practice that began in the late 1960s. This longer shelf life means super-sweet varieties stay sweet for up to 10 days after harvest.
Sweet corn is available in white, light yellow, and bicolored varieties, but Smoke-McCluskey says there isn’t much of a discernible difference in flavor. “They’re all sweet and delicious.”
When shopping for your sweet corn recipes at the grocery store or farmers market, he says to look for ears with fresh, green leaves but brown silks at the top—a sign that the corn was ripe when picked. The silk inside should still be soft and the kernels should be plump, not shriveled, though peeling back the husk to check the kernels understandably aggravates many corn vendors, so we don't recommend this. Ideally, you can trust your vendor and know that the corn was harvested at its peak, but you can also feel for the full kernels through the husk.
If you’re growing your own sweet corn and don't mind poking a hole in a kernel, you can tell it's ready if you puncture a kernel and milk comes out. If the juice is clear, it’s too early; if there’s no juice, it’s too late. Cut it when the time is right because corn doesn't continue to ripen off the stalk.
Pro tip: If your sweet corn is past its prime, Smoke-McCluskey says you can soak the cobs in sugar water (1/2 cup of white sugar per gallon of water) for a couple of hours to plump them back up.
What Is Field Corn?Getty Images / ithinkskyField corn can refer to any starchy variety, but most field corn in the US is dent corn, which gets its name from the dimple at the end of each kernel that forms as it dries out.
Although field corn kernels start out soft like sweet corn, this variety is left to dry on the stalks in the field before harvesting in the fall once much of its sugar content has converted into starch, meaning it’s no longer sweet and juicy. And you won’t see any field corn at the grocery store.
“If you grab an ear of field corn and take a bite, you'll probably chip a tooth,” says Smoke-McCluskey. About 40% of US dent corn is used as a feed grain for livestock, according to the USDA. Most of the rest is funneled into making ethanol fuel, while a small portion is milled to make foods and beverages, such as cereal, tortilla chips, whiskey, and grits.
The kernels of commercial field corn are often a deep yellow-orange, referred to as “yellow gold.” However, heirloom varieties have kernels that span the colors of the rainbow.
Smoke-McCluskey likes to nixtamalize many kinds of field corn to make hominy. Nixtamalization, a.k.a. lyeing and washing, is a process in which field corn is boiled in water and hardwood ash, says Smoke-McCluskey. “The alkaline quality of the mixture softens the kernels enough to peel off their tough outer hull, making the corn more digestible and its nutritional benefits more bioavailable.”
Among the Mohawk people of the Northeast, lyed corn is used in soups, stews, grits, mush, and cornbread. Smoke-McCluskey works with seed savers and growers, such as The Congaree Milling Company, to nixtamalize and coarsely grind hominy grits for sale to chefs and specialty stores. In Mexican cuisine, the nixtamalized mixture is ground into masa for tamales and tortillas.
Other Varieties of CornMost of the United States grows the exact same variety of corn from one seed, from one company. We're not going to get into that here, but there are still many other flavors and nuances in different varieties of corn to be found, including indigenous field, flour, and flint varieties that are as delicious and nutrition-dense as they are beautiful.
The TakeawaySweet corn is cultivated and harvested for its sweetness and tenderness, making it ideal for direct human consumption—such as boiling for corn on the cob or turning into chowder. Meanwhile, field corn is grown for its high starch content and versatility. Due to its tough texture and lower sugar content, it’s not typically consumed fresh but is commonly used as animal feed and in ethanol production. It is also nixtamalized and used to make masa, grits, mush, and cornbread.
Serious Eats / Qi AiThough I’m a born and bred Northerner hailing from New Jersey, I started baking professionally while living in Birmingham, Alabama. Before moving to the South, I’d only ever encountered one type of biscuit: a tall, buttery, buttermilk biscuit with flaky, neatly-stacked layers. This common variety (which I’ll refer to from here onward as a “cut biscuit”) is what many Americans consider a Southern-style biscuit. And it is—but it isn’t the only one. After I moved to Alabama, I quickly learned that the field of Southern biscuits is vast. Within the main categories of cut biscuits and drop biscuits, there are myriad variations: cream biscuits, sweet potato biscuits, angel biscuits, benne seed biscuits, and my particular favorite, cathead biscuits.
Serious Eats / Qi AiCathead biscuits, a variety of drop biscuits, are quite popular in the American South, but lesser known elsewhere. These extra large biscuits are crisp and golden on the outside, while remaining exceptionally fluffy and moist on the inside. As a bonus, they’re much easier to make than classic cut biscuits. Before I dive into the particular wonders of cathead biscuits, it’s important to understand the two main methods used to make biscuits.
Cut Biscuits vs. Drop BiscuitsThe main difference between cut biscuits and drop biscuits rests in technique—the former is rolled and cut, whereas the latter is simply dropped onto the pan, either with a measuring cup, cookie scoop, or a pair of hands. While cut biscuits are tall, layered, and flaky, drop biscuits are softer, fluffier, and more tender.
Serious Eats / Qi AiMost cut biscuits recipes call for rolling, folding, or stacking the dough to create flaky layers. This step is crucial to achieving tall, flaky biscuits, as the butter melts and produces pockets of steam inside the pastry, but the method leaves lots of room for user error. Work the dough too much, and you’ll develop excess gluten, resulting in dense, bready biscuits; move too slowly and the butter inside will melt, compromising the biscuit’s flaky structure. Since drop biscuits don’t require rolling or cutting, there’s less risk of overworking and warming up the dough. The dough can also absorb more liquid without becoming too difficult to handle, as there’s no rolling or folding involved.
A Brief History of Cathead BiscuitsCathead biscuits are a supersized variety of drop biscuits, so named for their gargantuan size as the biscuits are quite literally as big as a cat’s head. Rumor has it that these biscuits date back to the Civil War when, to save time, cooks simply plopped mounds of dough onto a baking sheet. Some Southerners say these colorfully-named biscuits originated in Appalachia; others, the Mississippi Delta. Needless to say, the biscuits became a regional staple, and today, you can find them at barbecue joints, truck stops, meat-and-threes, and home dinner tables across the American South. The fluffy interior makes it an ideal vehicle for sopping up gravy, meat juices, or whatever else is on your plate.
In a 1996 review for the New York Times, journalist Rick Bragg noted that very few Atlanta restaurants still served traditional Southern-style food. He argued that the region’s best home-style cooking could be found in homes themselves, opening with a description of the biscuits he enjoyed at 75-year-old Mrs. Ruby Pearl Barber’s kitchen table: “Down here they call them cathead biscuits, because they are about the size of a kitten's head, crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, slathered with muscadine jelly and white butter, or opened up and smothered in white milk gravy.” The only problem? These biscuits weren’t for sale.
Serious Eats / Qi AiIt’s precisely for this reason that cathead biscuits have remained somewhat of a Southern secret: they are the South’s humble, everyday biscuit, found at greasy spoons and on checker-clothed tables. Unless you grew up in the South or chose it as your adopted home like I did, it’s entirely possible that you’d never encounter one.
Though cut biscuits still remain the standard in restaurants, bakeries, and grocery aisles, cathead biscuits have begun to earn nationwide recognition as Southern bakers and cookbook authors, including Cheryl Day and Jocelyn Delk Adams, have begun to share their recipes for the Southern staple. In 2013, Biscuit Head—an Asheville, North Carolina breakfast shop specializing in cathead biscuits—catapulted the lesser-known variety into the national spotlight, earning accolades for their fluffy, extra-large biscuits. It’s the shop that first introduced me to cathead biscuits, and the first time I tasted one, I marveled over its tender crumb and unexpectedly light texture. It was not heavy nor greasy—it was airy and plush. I’ve been hooked ever since.
Dialing in the Ingredients for the Best Cathead BiscuitsIn my quest to develop a recipe for soft, fluffy cathead biscuits, I started with a basic biscuit ratio (one of the general tenets of baking): one part fat to two parts liquid to three parts flour. Because drop biscuits can handle more liquid than a cut biscuit—since they don’t have to be rolled and cut—I increased the quantity of buttermilk to nearly equal the amount of flour. I also increased the amount of fat to yield a lighter, airier biscuit, as the butter melts in the oven and creates pockets of steam. Buttermilk contributes moisture and tang, its acidity reacting with the leavening agent to produce a rise. Once I’d settled on a basic formula, I sought to answer two primary questions: Which types of flour and fat would yield the fluffiest, most tender biscuits?
All-Purpose Flour vs. Cake FlourIt’s not just tradition that makes Southern biscuits better than the rest—it’s the ingredients used, too. Before national transportation networks enabled more widespread, cross-regional trade in the early 19th century, all flour was milled from local wheat—soft red winter wheat in the South, and a combination of soft and hard wheat in the North. “Hard wheat has a higher protein content (11-15%) than soft wheat (5-9%), meaning the former has more capacity for gluten development than the latter,” explains former Serious Eats editor Kristina Razon in her guide to the types of flour. The lower-protein flour made Southern baked goods (including pound cake, pie crust, and biscuits) particularly tender. White Lily—the South’s signature flour brand—still uses 100% soft red winter wheat (for a protein count of 9%) and is only available regionally. White Lily’s low protein content of 9% means it produces soft, fluffy pastries, and is ideal for preparing cathead biscuits.
If you don’t live in the South, it may be difficult to locate White Lily flour. You can, however, create a similar product by blending all-purpose flour (typically 10–11% protein) and bleached cake flour (7–8% protein) This is the approach Day takes in her recipe for cathead biscuits, calling for a 50/50 split. But I wondered if using two types of flour was really necessary. Part of the appeal of cathead biscuits is, after all, its ease and unfussiness.
To determine if mixing two types of flour really made a difference, I tested this biscuit recipe with cake flour, a 50/50 blend of all-purpose and cake flour, and only all-purpose flour.
- Cake flour: The biscuits made with only cake flour were too crumbly and spongy, more closely resembling a scone or shortcake than a biscuit. They lacked structural integrity and crumbled easily when lifted off the plate.
- 50/50 all-purpose flour and cake flour: The biscuits made with a 50/50 split of cake flour and all-purpose flour were significantly more tender and fluffy. The crumb was tender and soft, yet sturdy enough to qualify as a biscuit.
- All-purpose flour: The biscuits made with only all-purpose flour were passable, but slightly tough and dry. Fine for smothering in gravy, but less ideal for a breakfast sandwich or eating out of hand.
In short: It’s absolutely worth seeking out cake flour if you want soft, pillowy biscuits. Avoid unbleached cake flour, though which can turn the biscuits dense, as former Serious Eats editor Stella Parks noted in her article on bleached cake flour.
I also recommend using bleached, enriched all-purpose flour (such as Gold Medal or Pillsbury) for this recipe. Both gain enough structure from a moderate protein count (10–11%) and undergo a bleaching process to further soften the wheat, yielding a more tender crumb. Avoid King Arthur all-purpose flour here, which has a higher protein count of 11.7% and can lead to denser biscuits. (You can read more about the various types of flour and their protein quantities in this guide to types of flour.)
Butter vs. ShorteningSome bakers, including Day and Delk Adams, use butter as the only source of fat in their cathead biscuits, but plenty of home cooks I met in Alabama bake their biscuits exclusively with vegetable shortening, like Crisco. Each type of fat has its advantages. Shortening is composed of 100% fat and has a higher melting point than butter, which helps the biscuits hold their shape and yields a crumbly, crisp, and tender crumb. Depending on style, butter can range from 80 to 85% butterfat, with the remainder being milk solids and water. That water evaporates in the oven, creating pockets of steam inside the biscuits and results in lighter, flakier biscuits. Butter also brings richness and flavor that shortening lacks.
Serious Eats / Qi AiInitially, I suspected a combination of butter and shortening might create the optimal biscuit. Butter would bring rich flavor and lightness, while shortening would contribute tenderness and structure. After testing various ratios of butter to shortening to see which would yield the fluffiest biscuits, I found that any quantity of shortening—ranging from 2 tablespoons to 1/4 cup—made the biscuits slightly gummier and tougher. I ultimately opted to use just butter, which I grate to create smaller pieces that are quick to incorporate, reducing the chance of meltage.
5 Tips for Preparing Cathead BiscuitsPreheat the pan. A technique commonly used in the South to make cornbread, preheating the pan maximizes browning on the sides and bottom of the biscuits.
Drop the batter in equal portions. Don’t worry about being neat or precise when you drop the biscuits into the hot pan—the biscuits are meant to be craggy. But dot try to make each biscuit about the same size so they bake evenly.
Use cold butter. As the biscuits bake, the cold butter melts, creating pockets of steam that produce layers in the baked biscuits. If your butter is too warm, it’s likely it’ll melt into the dough before it’s even had the chance to bake, leaving you with biscuits that don’t have that unique flakiness.
Add a little sugar. Though they contain a smidgeon of sugar, these biscuits are not discernibly sweet. Granulated sugar merely seasons the dough and aids in caramelization.
Experiment with mix-ins. With equal parts sugar and salt, these biscuits can skew sweet or savory. Try folding in finely-chopped herbs, shredded cheese, chocolate chips, or dried fruit. Serve the biscuits on their own (I like them split and stuffed with a pat of butter and honey), use as the base for your dream breakfast sandwich, or, for a true Southern approach, smother in sausage gravy.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 425ºF (220ºC). Set a 9-inch cake pan onto oven rack to preheat.
Serious Eats / Qi AiIn a large bowl, whisk together all-purpose flour, cake flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Qi AiThinly slice 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter and set aside. On the large holes of a box grater, grate remaining butter onto a cutting board or piece of parchment. Add grated butter to dry ingredients and toss to evenly coat. Using your fingers, rub butter in until mixture is crumbly with no large chunks of butter. The mixture should hold together when squeezed, a sign that the flour is properly hydrated.
Serious Eats / Qi AiMake a well in the center of the dry mixture, then pour in the buttermilk. Using a fork or flexible spatula, mix until a shaggy, cohesive dough forms. Use your hands to gently fold the dough over itself a few times, mixing until dough is sticky and no dry bits remain.
Serious Eats / Qi AiOnce oven is preheated, remove pan from oven and set onto a trivet or heat-proof surface. Add remaining 1 tablespoon butter to pan; using pot holders or oven mitts, swirl to evenly coat pan until butter has completely melted. (If butter does not melt fully, place pan back in the oven for 2 to 3 minutes).
Serious Eats / Qi AiDivide dough into 7 equal portions, about 120g or 4 1/2 ounces each, and shape each portion into a rough ball. Arrange 6 balls of dough around the edge of the pan and place 1 in the middle; they should just be touching.
Serious Eats / Qi AiBake the biscuits until they spring back when touched, are golden brown on top, and register 190ºF (88ºC) when an instant read thermometer is inserted, about 35 minutes.
Serious Eats / Qi AiLet the biscuits cool in pan for 10 minutes, then use a spatula to slide the attached biscuits out of the pan. (Alternatively, serve biscuits directly in pan). Pull apart and serve warm with honey and additional butter, if desired.
Serious Eats / Qi AiSpecial Equipment9-inch cake pan, instant read thermometer
Make-Ahead and StorageBiscuits can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 to 3 days. Biscuits can be individually wrapped and frozen for up to 1 month.
Vicky WasikThis chicken salad gets its vibrant flavor from bright basil pesto. Speckled with chopped sun-dried tomatoes, every bite is pleasantly tangy, and it makes for a great easy lunch or mid-afternoon snack.
For his Best Chicken Salad, Kenji cooked the chicken sous-vide. I wanted the same tender and juicy results, but without the special equipment, so I followed Daniel’s method for cold-start poaching, which only requires a saucepan and some patience. The method is simple: add chicken to a pot of cold water, bring the water up to 150°F (65°C) on the stovetop and then keep it at that temperature. The chicken gently cooks, and it’s ready once the internal temperature at the thickest point reaches 150 degrees as well. The only downside to this method is that it's quite slow, so to speed up the process I used boneless, skinless chicken breasts instead of split bone-in breasts.
Once the chicken is cooked, I let it cool slightly before shredding it into pieces and tossing it with basil pesto, mayonnaise, and lemon juice. For the pesto, you can go all-out and make Daniel’s classic pesto alla Genovese, or just use store-bought. I also like to stir in chopped sun-dried tomatoes for extra flavor and texture. They’re sweet, tart, and chewy, and they complement the pungency of the pesto. Sharp and fresh, this pesto chicken salad goes great in a sandwich, on a salad, with crackers, or even straight from the fridge.
In a large saucepan, combine water and salt, and stir to dissolve salt. Add chicken and set over medium-high heat until water temperature registers between 150 and 160°F (65.5 to 71°C) on an instant-read thermometer; adjust heat to maintain water temperature in the 150–160°F range. (It's okay if the temperature bounces around a little, but try to keep it above 150 and below 170°F.) Cook until thickest part of chicken registers 150°F (65.5°C) on an instant-read thermometer, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove chicken and let rest until cool enough to handle, about 5 minutes. Using two forks or clean hands, shred chicken into bite-size pieces and set aside.
Vicky WasikIn a large bowl, stir together mayonnaise, pesto, and lemon juice until well combined. Add reserved shredded chicken and sun-dried tomatoes and stir to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve.
Vicky WasikSpecial EquipmentLarge saucepan, instant-read thermometer.
Make-Ahead and StorageIf using homemade pesto, the pesto can be made in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days with a thin layer of extra-virgin olive oil on top to prevent pesto from oxidizing. The finished chicken salad can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days.
Serious Eats / Photographer: Hannah Hufham, Food Stylist: Nicole Hopper, Prop Stylist: Tucker VinesCold soups such as borscht, gazpacho, and vichyssoise are among my favorite things to eat during the hottest days of summer, and now I'm adding this beautiful chilled beet and cherry soup created by our test kitchen colleague Nicole Hopper to my hot weather list. The soup is made with fresh beets and sweet cherries—which are in season at the same time during peak summer—sour cream or yogurt, star anise, and cinnamon. It's a bit sweet but leans more to the savory side. You could eat it any time of day, but it would be particularly nice served out of shot glasses as an amuse bouche for a summer party.
The cherry flavor tempers the earthiness of the beets in the puréed soup, while whole cherries add a pop of sweetness for a flavor ride one taster described as "tangy-tart-earthy-sweet." Meanwhile, the sour cream (or yogurt) rounds out the flavors and adds additional tang and a beautiful richness. You can top the soup with a dollop of sour cream or yogurt, or create an attractive drizzle by slightly thinning the dairy with water. Read on for tips on making the soup and to get Nicole's full recipe.
Serious Eats / Hannah Hufham4 Tips for Making This Cold Fruit Soup1. Think about investing in a cherry pitter. While there are other ways to pit cherries—such as pushing the pit out with a chopstick—if you plan to pit cherries (or olives) more than a couple of times a year, it's worth investing in a cherry/olive pitter. 2. Consider wearing gloves. Beets stain everything, including hands and clothes, so consider wearing latex gloves when you peel and chop the beets. Or simply do as I do and wash your hands well after working with the beets. I also recommend using a cutting board you don't care too much about staining when working with beets and cherries. 3. Temper the sour cream. As noted above, if you just add sour cream directly to the hot soup, the heat could curdle the sour cream. But by whisking some of the hot mixture into the sour cream first, you gradually raise the temperature of the sour cream instead of shocking it with heat. 4. Purée carefully. Be careful when transferring the mixture from the stovetop to a blender and be sure to remove the top plug on the blender to allow steam to escape. You can also use an immersion blender rather than a traditional blender, but the soup won't be quite as silky-smooth.
Serious Eats / Hannah HufhamIn a medium saucepan, combine water, beets, cinnamon, star anise, and 1 cup cherries. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until beets are tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
Serious Eats / Hannah HufhamDiscard cinnamon and star anise. Carefully transfer beet and cherry mixture to a blender. Secure lid on blender, remove center piece to allow steam to escape, and place a clean kitchen towel over opening. Blend, starting at low speed and gradually increasing to high, until completely smooth, about 1 minute. (Use caution when puréeing hot liquids.) Return mixture to saucepan.
Serious Eats / Hannah HufhamStir in salt, pepper, and remaining 1 cup cherries and bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring often, until cherries are slightly softened, about 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Hannah Hufham1. Transfer to a large heatproof bowl or jug. Let cool slightly at room temperature, about 30 minutes. Place sour cream in a small bowl, and gradually whisk in 1 cup warm soup, stirring until well-combined and no streaks remain. Whisk sour cream mixture back into soup until well blended, then stir in lemon juice. Cover and refrigerate until completely chilled, at least 4 hours or up to 3 days. Serve chilled. Garnish with a swirl of sour cream, if desired.
Serious Eats / Hannah HufhamVariationsThis soup can also be made with sour cherries. To do so, simply replace some of the sweet cherries with sour cherries and reduce the amount of lemon juice to taste.
Special EquipmentCherry pitter or chopstick, blender, large heatproof bowl
Make Ahead and StorageStore soup in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Serious Eats / Getty imagesThe onion is the surest kitchen partner I know. It’s arguably the most hardworking allium and the beginning of nearly every savory dish I can think of. Onions kick off your cooking by igniting your senses with a sting in the eyes as you slice them, then perhaps perfuming the kitchen with a mouthwatering aroma as they quietly sizzle in a pan.
With very little coaxing, onions provide a wide range of flavor—from sharp and spicy when raw to mellow and sweet when cooked. But what if you’re seeking to stay at one end of that spectrum? It’s valuable to know when to use yellow onions over white onions and vice versa, and when it’s perfectly fine to swap the two. I spoke with René Hardwick, director of public and industry relations for the National Onion Association, to learn all about the differences between these two varieties of onions.
What Is the Difference Between Yellow and White Onions?For one, it’s no popularity contest, because if it were, yellow onions would win in the United States by a landslide. Yellow onions make up 87% of the US onion crop, according to the National Onion Association, while white onions make up approximately 5%. And while yellow onions take up more space in the produce section, you’ll almost always see some white onions nestled alongside them— and the culinary powers of white onions should not be overlooked.
While they look similar, these two types of onions have distinct differences in flavor and texture.
White onions have a sharper, more distinct onion flavor than yellow onions. They tend to have a cleaner, crisper, and firmer texture, with a slightly brighter taste when raw and little to no aftertaste. When cooked, white onions break down more easily than their yellow counterparts—almost melting into long-cooked dishes like soups and stews.
Getty Images / fastudio4Yellow onions have a more complex flavor profile, with a balance of sweetness and pungency. They have a more tender and slightly denser texture when raw, and the kind of aftertaste that can wake up the dead. When cooked, they soften further and become sweeter and more caramelized, but retain their structural integrity.
Getty Images / mariusFM77Sweet onions, sold under trademarked names such as Vidalia, Maui, and Walla Walla, are a type of yellow onion that is milder and seasonal. You’ll see them at the store during the spring and summer months. The more generically labeled yellow, white, and red onions available year-round are called storage onions because they’ve been dried out after harvest to keep for months. If you find these varieties at farmers markets, you may see them with specific tags like Red Zeppelins or Australian Browns.
Getty Images / jmsilvaWhat Are the Best Uses for Yellow vs. White Onions?Generally speaking, Hardwick says to think of the yellow onion as your all-purpose onion for cooked dishes in which the onions are sautéed or roasted—anything that can benefit from their sweet, caramelized flavor.
“The yellow onion offers a more savory taste that’s equally good in a fried onion blossom or caramelized atop your favorite meats,” says Hardwick. This type of onion really is the best option for many kinds of braises, like kabab halla (Egyptian braised beef with onions), as well as in fried applications like onion rings.
When to use yellow onions:* Fried onions * Caramelized onions * Soups and stocks * Stews * Braises
White onions are preferable for fresh, raw applications and should be your go-to when cooking dishes from Mexican and Southwest cuisines. “The crunch and zing of raw white onions do the trick on top of tacos, chili, and salsas,” says Hardwick. It’s the top choice for making pico de gallo. White onions are also ideal for making white sauces, like soubise, when you want to maintain the colorlessness.
When to use white onions:* Dips * Salsas * Salads * Sandwiches * Tacos * Burgers
Can You Substitute Yellow Onions for White Onions, and Vice Versa?White and yellow onions are mostly interchangeable, especially when cooked. “The differences just help vary our menus,” says Hardwick.
Using one for the other won’t alter your dish too much. Sometimes a mix of onions produces a welcomed complexity, like in Daniel Gritzer’s French onion soup recipe. And sometimes the best onion is the cheapest one, as in J. Kenji Lopez Alt’s Oklahoma-style onion burgers.
But now that you know the differences, you’ll know what to grab when you’ve got options and are going for a specific taste or texture.
The TakeawayWhite onions tend to be milder and crisper with less of an aftertaste, making them great in raw applications, such as in fresh salads, salsas, and sandwiches.
Yellow onions have a bold, sweet flavor, so they’re ideal when you want a more pungent onion flavor and silky texture, such as in soups, braises, and sautéed dishes.
There are differences between yellow and white onions, but don’t fret too much about using the right one; when you’re in need of an onion in a pinch, you can use what you have. It’ll still taste great in the end!
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI first tasted pastel de atún, or tuna cake―a dish made of layers of white sandwich bread frosted with a creamy, tuna-based sauce―when a neighbor started selling little pink slices of it at a corner store near my home in Mazatlán, Sinaloa, on Mexico’s Pacific coast. Although pastel de atún may resemble a sugary, frosted layer cake, it's deeply savory through and through, both creamy and spicy, cold and sweet.
Pastel de atún is a traditional staple at children’s birthday parties since it’s an affordable option that looks like a cake and can be decorated accordingly. As a bonus, it doesn’t require an oven; in Sinaloa, which sits right on the Tropic of Cancer, baking in an indoor oven can make a home uncomfortably hot, so many kitchens don’t have one. The cake is usually served cold with a side of frijoles puercos (a Sinaloa specialty of refried beans with lard, chorizo, and a little chile). It’s also a popular make-ahead option to bring along on family outings to the beach or water park and eaten as “la comida,” or the main meal of the day. It’s “like ceviche but cheaper,” oneMazatlecafriend told me.
Seafood has been a mainstay in coastal Sinaloa since before Spanish colonization. Many coastal residents still work in the seafood industry, on tuna and shrimp boats, on shrimp farms, or selling seafood in markets or to restaurants. Eating seafood on a daily basis is common, which means locals know their way around a fish. As a result, creative recipes that incorporate easily-available ingredients like canned tuna abound, especially in home cooking. There’s a wide range of tuna salads, tuna ceviches (made with either canned or fresh tuna), and even protein shakes with canned tuna, which are sold at many of Mazatlán’s popular smoothie shops. Then, of course, there’s pastel de atún.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThough no one I spoke with was quite sure of the origin of pastel de atún, they commented that it closely resembles the sandwichón, a dish with alternating layers of bread and chicken salad or slices of ham that’s made in other areas of Mexico. Some believe that, as the name suggests, the sandwichón is an adaptation of a standard deli sandwich, but with frosting and decoration to add a bit of flair for parties and other events. And, of course, the cake-like appearance is on-theme, especially for birthdays.
In fact, for a “deluxe” version of pastel de atún, some Mazatlecos add slices of ham between the bread and sauce, as is typical in sandwichónes. For this recipe, I kept it simple and left the ham out. Another common local variation is the substitution of all or some of the jalapeño in the sauce with chipotles in adobo. I did side-by-side taste tests of the recipe with jalapeño, chipotle, and a mix, and I personally prefer all jalapeño, which lets the other flavors shine. This version, with jalapeño but without ham or chipotle, is the way I’ve most frequently seen the dish served, and it’s my personal favorite. (I also owe a big thanks to my suegra Doña Esthela, my partner Lalo, and my volunteer taste-testers Hilda, John, Santa, Amialba and Hugo for taking the time to talk to me, try various recipes, and reminisce about pastel de atún!)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSince canned tuna comes packed both in water and oil, I wanted to test both kinds to see what difference, if any, there might be. (I used yellowfin tuna in my tests, but skipjack or chunk light can be used as well). I found that oil-packed tuna delivers a more intense fish flavor. While some of my taste-testers enjoyed that pronounced fishiness, others, myself included, favored the more subtle flavors of the water-packed version. For this recipe, I recommend water-packed tuna for a light flavor that won’t overpower the other ingredients.
I like to use media crema, a cream product with 20 to 25% fat and stabilizers, as the base of the sauce. It’s available in most grocery stores with a well-stocked Latin section, as well as online. A little cream cheese helps thicken the sauce. I also include a couple slices of American cheese, a very common pastel de atún ingredient that helps with thickening and rounds out the flavor.
For the cake layers, I prefer crust-less white sandwich bread, which has a soft, airy texture that keeps the cake light; avoid whole wheat bread, which will contribute a tougher, chewier texture. You can keep the crusts on hand as a quick snack to dip in any leftover sauce.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMost versions of this recipe call for the standard canned sizes of ingredients available in Mexican grocery stores, which makes measuring easy and cleaning up quick. It uses, for example, about one 200-gram (7-ounce) can of La Costeña–brand red pepper strips (sold as “pimiento morrón en tiras”). Similarly, the recipe calls for roughly a 200-gram can of pickled jalapeños and one 225-gram (7.6 ounce) can of media crema. While it may be appealing to use fresh ingredients rather than canned, and would likely make a delicious pastel, canned is what you need to achieve the most traditional flavor profile.
Assembly is easy and quite similar to frosting a cake: Simply alternate layers of sauce and bread, making sure the bread is thoroughly slathered in sauce, which will begin to soak into the bread but not all the way through. Decorate the top with strips of red bell pepper: You can spell out words like, “Happy Birthday!,” or go for a fun decorative pattern. Don’t stop there―you can add more pizzazz with extra jalapeño slices or even strips of cheese. After a quick stint in the fridge to firm up the cake, dish up slices with frijoles puercos alongside; it’s a great way to beat the heat.
In a blender, combine tuna, media crema, pepper strips, cream cheese, and American cheese and blend until smooth, scraping down sides halfway through with a flexible spatula, about 1 minute. Working in batches, blend in jalapeño peppers until desired heat level is reached and a completely smooth sauce has formed. Season with salt to taste. Transfer sauce to a medium bowl.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing a small offset spatula, spread 1/2 cup sauce (115g) in an even layer that covers the bottom of a 8- by 8-inch square pan, then lay down four slices of bread on top of sauce, so that the edges are touching, forming a single solid layer. Repeat layering process with sauce and bread, making sure to spread the sauce evenly across bread and covering any exposed areas (the sauce should be absorbed by the bread without soaking it all the way through); you should have 5 layers. Cover top layer of bread evenly with remaining sauce, smoothing out any rough areas. Garnish top with pepper strips as desired. Refrigerate uncovered for at least 1 hour and up to 3 hours.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSlice cake into quarters or eighths and serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentBlender, 8- by 8-inch square pan, small offset spatula.
NotesIf desired, you can assemble pastel on a 10- or 12-inch flat round or square plate. In Step 2, spread 1/3 cup sauce (70g) into a roughly 7-inch square in the center of the plate. Lay four slices of bread on top of sauce, forming a single solid layer. Repeat layering process with sauce and bread. Cover top layer of bread and all sides evenly with remaining sauce, and refrigerate.
The quantities of pickled jalapeño, red pepper strips, and media crema are about one 7-ounce can of La Costeña sliced jalapeño, one 7-ounce can of La Costeña pimiento morrón, and one 7.6-ounce can of Nestlé media crema (respectively). You may be able to find these products in the Latin section of your supermarket.
Media crema, a thickened cream with 20% to 25% fat, is a staple in Mexican grocery stores. The Nestlé version of media crema is sometimes labeled “table cream” and is acceptable to use in this recipe; you can find it in well-stocked supermarkets as well as online. However, other products labeled “table cream,” such as Cacique Crema Mexicana Table Cream, have a thinner consistency and a tangy, slightly fermented flavor; they will not work in pastel de atún.
Canned red pepper (pimiento morrón) is a bit harder to find than the other ingredients, but you can substitute with an equal weight of store-bought or homemade roasted red peppers, cut into 1/4-inch-wide strips.
For the pickled jalapeños, you can use an equal weight of thinner-sliced, nacho-style pickled jalapeños or whole pickled jalapeños that have been stemmed and cut into 1/2-inch-wide rounds.
Make-Ahead and StoragePastel de atún can be prepared ahead of time and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week. While leftovers are excellent, it will become more dense over time.
Serious Eats / Victor ProtasioI used to forget about my French press. More often than not, it just sat on my shelf with other forsaken coffee tools, collecting dust. Occasionally, if I happened to run out of filters for my pour-over, I’d bring it down and give it its moment. But it was always the reserve—a backup tool that worked well in a pinch.
But one week, when I kept forgetting to buy new coffee filters, I started playing around with my neglected French press. I looked up a few recipes online and even tested the one Nick Cho wrote about for Serious Eats. Along the way, I realized just how good the coffee brewed by a French press is. What’s more, it’s incredibly easy to use: Pour hot water over freshly ground coffee, let it sit for some minutes, press it, and…that’s it. (Okay, yes, there are a few different methods for making it, but for the most part, the theory stays the same.) This simple process makes a consistently good cup of coffee, and I’ve made a lot of coffee as a former barista.
Simplicity Is What Makes a French Press Great Serious Eats / Isaac NunnSince the beginning of what we now call the third wave of coffee, there’s been a strong interest in filter methods. More and more folks are using pour-over brewers like the Kalita or the Hario Switch. There are also new approaches to and ratios for brewing espresso, with people using doodads like this puck screen or a needle tool called a WDT to even out how the water flows into espresso grounds. The hype machine, you could say, is geared toward the world of papers and pressure.
Pouring slowly lets the grit settle into the corner and gives you a cleaner cup.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubAnd then there’s the French press. It’s forever faithful, even if you’re the type who loves to tinker with your filter coffee recipe or dial in your at-home espresso. Just bloom the grounds with hot water just off the boil (210˚F, ideally). Let the mixture sit for one minute before breaking up the crust: Stir for 30 seconds, until the crust sinks. Brew for at least five minutes, and up to 10 (a longer brew will result in a bitter cup). Gently plunge until the filter screen rests just below the brewed coffee—don't push it onto the grounds. Pour and enjoy.
A French Press Lets Coffee Oils ShineSerious Eats / Isaac NunnUnlike a pour-over, in which the coffee’s oils are filtered out, a French press is an immersion brewer (meaning the coffee “steeps” in the water), so the natural oils are left behind, giving the coffee a silky texture. While the oils do take the spotlight away from the beans’ particular flavors, they also result in a rich brew you just can’t get with a pour-over. These oils also smooth out any sharply astringent flavors in light roast coffees and add a buttery sweetness to dark roast brews.
You Can Use a French Press for More Than Just CoffeeSince a French press is so simple, it can be used for more than just coffee. I’ll often use it to brew a simple, flavorful cup of tea with some good herbal looseleaf since it strains the leaves nicely. And since I don’t have an espresso machine, if I’m craving a foamy drink, I just make coffee in a moka pot, then heat up some milk and give it a few pumps in the French press. It’s not the silkiest froth, but I find it makes for a fine, thick cappuccino.
FAQsHow do you brew with a French press?Begin with water that's just off the boil: 210˚F is ideal. Pour the water over the grounds in the French press in a 1:15 ratio (for example, 40 grams of coffee to 600 grams of water). Let the grounds bloom for one minute as the coffee forms a crust at the top. Gently break up the crust, stirring for 30 seconds, until the crust sinks. Steep the coffee for at least five minutes, then gently plunge. Pour and enjoy.
Don’t French presses break a lot?They do! But that’s often the result of misusing the tool. If you feel any sort of resistance at all while you’re pressing the coffee down, stop, pull the pump up slightly, and try again. I avoid pushing the plunger all the way down and instead, leave the press just above the saturated grounds. If you don’t press the plunger, you won’t disturb the grounds, giving your brew more clarity and resulting in less gunk at the bottom of your cup.
What kind of coffee should I use?Any kind! Just make sure you know what water temperature is best for the coffee variety you’re using. Of course, the water will cool off the longer you steep the French press, but that doesn’t change the fact that the water should be at its ideal temperature when it first touches the grounds. If it’s too hot, you could end up burning the coffee and having bitter flavors in the final cup, even though some of the natural oils will help even these out.
Why We’re The Experts* Cole Hersey has been a full-time barista for the past five years. * He very much enjoys using his French press to brew a simple, consistently good cup of coffee. * Cole is also a freelance writer focusing on food culture and environmental issues in the Bay Area.
[Image: Serious Eats / Francesca Fasciglione]As people who test a lot of kitchen equipment—be it sous vide machines or pizza ovens—we’re also devoted to tracking the prices of said equipment. With summer sales happening left and right, we couldn’t help but notice that Amazon has up to 50% off on some of our favorite appliances and gadgets that we’ve tested and loved for years. We scoured through the site to find the best deals, including the Le Creuset Dutch ovens we use in our test kitchen (and homes) and the best Vitamix blender we’ve ever tested.
The Best Summer Deals on Amazon, at a Glance The Best Blender: Vitamix 5200 Blender * The Best Sous Vide Machine with Onboard Display: Anova Culinary Sous Vide Precision Cooker 2.0 * A Great Ice Cream Machine: Whynter Automatic Ice Cream Maker * The Best Gas Grill: Weber Spirit II E-310 3-Burner Grill * One of the Best Stainless Steel Frying Pans: All-Clad D3 3-Ply Stainless Steel Fry Pan * The Best Immersion Blender: All-Clad Electrics Stainless Steel Immersion Blender * The Best Enameled Cast Iron Dutch Oven: Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Signature Round Dutch Oven * The Best Cast Iron Skillet: Lodge 10-Inch Cast Iron Pre-Seasoned Skillet * The Best Instant Pot: Instant Pot Pro 10-in-1 Pressure Cooker * A Beginner Pizza Maker:* Breville Pizza Maker
Vitamix 5200 BlenderAmazonThe Vitamix 5200 has been our favorite blender for 10 years and running. It has a powerful motor that outperforms every other blender and features a tall, tapered jar that creates the optimal vortex for blending and puréeing. Throughout our tests, the Vitamix 5200 left no discernable pulp or fiber in soups, smoothies, nut milks, and more. With a 10-speed dial that offers full control based on your need for speed, it’s a kitchen workhorse that will last years and years.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyAnova Culinary Sous Vide Precision Cooker 2.0AmazonIt’s not every day that one of our favorite immersion circulators is 50% off. During our tests, the Anova sous vide precision cooker was accurate, consistent, and easy to use. It cooked tender chicken and produced a perfect soft-poached egg. Plus, its onboard display made setup and calibration simple since we didn’t have to fiddle with a phone to control it.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWhynter Automatic Ice Cream MakerAmazonWhen we tested ice cream makers, the Whynter automatic ice cream maker impressed us by churning out silky smooth ice cream that taste testers called “better than anything you could buy in a store.” It also has a simple digital control panel that clearly illuminates times and functions. While it’s an investment for making ice cream at home, it’s currently $100 off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonWeber Spirit II E-310 3-Burner GrillAmazonFor grilling enthusiasts who want a gas grill that performs well and is durable, the Weber Spirit three-burner grill is our top gas grill pick. In our tests, it boasted simple ignition, accurate temperature control, and a spacious 529 square inches of cooking surface. It also has three independently controlled burners for versatile grilling, and it’s nearly 20% off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreAll-Clad D3 3-Ply Stainless Steel Fry PanAmazonWe’ve tested a lot of stainless steel cookware, and All-Clad continues to be a top performer due to its excellent heat conductivity, retention, and responsiveness. A favorite in the Serious Eats test kitchen and in our own homes, the All-Clad stainless steel fry pan sears beautifully and is comfortable to hold. It’s usually pricier than other comparable pans, but at nearly 50% off right now, it’s too good to pass up.
Vicky WasikAll-Clad Electrics Stainless Steel Immersion BlenderAmazonA great immersion blender is a tool you’ll reach for again and again, whether you’re blending soups straight in the stockpot or whipping up some homemade mayo. The All-Clad immersion blender passed all our tests with flying colors. It crushed ice, puréed celery, and emulsified mayo with lightning fast speed and ease. Its extra-long neck also ensures that it can maneuver inside deeper pots and bowls. Plus, it’s 30% off right now.
Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesLe Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Signature Round Dutch OvenAmazonWe’re strong believers that every home cook should have a Dutch oven. Both in the test kitchen and in our own homes, we reach for the Le Creuset enameled cast iron Dutch oven time and time again for braises, stews, roasts, and much more. While it’s worth its usual price tag, it’s on rare sale now for a whopping 32% off.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyLodge 10-Inch Cast Iron Pre-Seasoned SkilletAmazonBe it steaks or cornbread, the Lodge cast iron skillet excels in heat retention and distribution. It’s a no-frills skillet that outpaces the competition every time thanks to its performance and durability. Contrary to popular belief, it’s easy to clean and maintain.The already affordable kitchen essential is now even cheaper at 42% off.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyInstant Pot Pro 10-in-1 Pressure CookerAmazonIn a world with so many Instant Pots, it’s hard to tell which one’s worth the investment. The Instant Pot Pro rose to the top during our tests, and has been a staff-favorite ever since. It heats up quickly, is easy to use, and has 10 convenient functions, including pressure cook, slow cook, steam, sauté, sous vide, and more. Plus, we love that it has a simple (and safe!) one-button valve release for letting out pressure.
Breville Pizza MakerAmazonThe Breville is a great indoor pizza oven for beginner cooks who want to make fuss-free pizza at home. When Kenji reviewed it, the Breville machine cooked 10-inch pies in about seven minutes and produced decent charring and crispy crusts. Compared to pizza cooked in a regular, stone-less convection oven, the Breville pie had a puffier lip and crispier bottom crust. Right now, it’s 22% off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWhy We’re the Experts* An Uong is a Commerce Writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * We’ve tested kitchen equipment for years, and spend our days looking out for the best deals.
Serious Eats / Photographer: Morgan Hunt Glaze, Food Stylist: Julian Hensarling, Prop Stylist: Claire SpollenHere's a simple, hearty vegetable side dish that you can toss together in minutes—as long as you have fresh green beans and your air fryer on hand. The result is crisp, lightly browned and blistered green beans with a texture that's loosely inspired by Sichuan-style dry-fried green beans.
Real dry-frying is a two-stage wok technique that involves frying something first in a generous amount of oil, and then stir-frying a second time with seasonings. It’s an amazing technique that delivers delicious results, but as Kenji points out in his recipe for Sichuan-style dry-fried green beans, it isn't always practical for the home cook. In his recipe he found the broiler to be an acceptable substitute for producing charred and blistered beans, with a minimum amount of oil and effort required.
We love this recipe, and Daniel’s green beans with Romesco sauce also uses this technique, but we found that the air fryer is an even easier and faster way to mimic dry-fried green beans. The air-fryer “dry-fried” green beans we're sharing the recipe for here are great just tossed with a bit of extra-virgin olive oil, salt, and pepper, or you can add our suggested flavor combinations described below, including red curry–cashew and the gruyère–fried shallot pictured above. It works equally well with regular green beans and thinner haricot verts.
There’s a reason why this powerhouse appliance cooks great green beans so quickly: It’s basically a tiny convection oven that circulates air extremely efficiently, which is why it can quickly and perfectly “dry-fry” green beans. Seasoned recipe developer Marianne Williams tested and found that in just 10 minutes, the air fryer’s even air flow and dry, high heat makes bright, crisp-tender green beans that retained all of their grassy, sweet flavor. Read on for the full recipe and for Williams’ tips for making crisp, lightly blistered green beans in your air fryer at home.
3 Tips for Crisp, Lightly Browned Air-Fryer Green BeansWhen green beans are cooked properly in an air fryer, they should be tender while still retaining a bit of crisp texture and browning on the outside. This browning and Maillard reaction delivers a great roasted/caramelized effect, similar to the results of dry-fried green beans.
- Preheat the air-fryer basket and roast at a high temperature. Since green beans cook very quickly, you want the exterior to start cooking immediately in the air fryer. Toss the green beans with oil before transferring to the preheated cooking basket. The beans should sizzle slightly on contact with the air fryer, so take the extra five minutes to preheat the appliance. Cooking at a high heat of 400°F allows the outside of the green beans to develop a roasted flavor and become slightly charred before the inside overcooks.
- Don’t overcrowd the air-fryer basket: Overcrowding the air fryer basket can prevent proper air circulation and result in uneven cooking of the green beans. It can also cause the beans to steam rather than roast, which prevents the browning we want in this recipe. Avoid this by cooking the green beans in an even layer or in batches if necessary. For a six-quart or larger capacity air fryer, one pound of green beans will fit in one batch, but for a smaller capacity air fryer, you may need to cook in two batches. Before cooking, check to see if the beans will lay flat into your air fryer—if needed, they can be halved crosswise.
- Serve it simply, or dress it up. While lightly charred air-fryer green beans are fantastic with nothing more than a sprinkle of salt and the olive oil it’s cooked in, there are many great ways to incorporate more flavor. The green beans can be tossed with lemon zest right after cooking and topped with some shaved Parmesan cheese and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice or tossed with red curry-infused ghee. See the Variations section below the recipe for more ideas on dressing up your air-fryer green beans.
Preheat a 6-quart air fryer to 400°F (205ºC) for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss green beans with oil, salt, and pepper to evenly coat. Pour green beans into preheated air-fryer basket and cook until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt Glaze1. Remove basket from air fryer and shake to toss green beans. Return basket to air fryer and continue to cook until crisp-tender and charred in spots, about 2 more minutes. Transfer green beans to a serving platter or individual plates and serve.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeVariations Lemon-Parmesan: Tos air fried green beans with 1 teaspoon fresh lemon zest and top with 1 tablespoon grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serve with lemon wedges. * Red Curry-Cashew: In a large microwave-safe bowl, microwave 1 tablespoon ghee and 1 teaspoon Thai red curry powder on medium-high heat (70% power) until melted, hot, and fragrant, 30 to 60 seconds. Toss the raw green beans with the curry-ghee mixture before transferring to the preheated air fryer basket. Air fry as directed. Top with 2 tablespoons (10 g) chopped roasted, salted cashews. * Gruyère-Fried Shallot: In a small nonstick skillet, sprinkle 1 ounce (28g) shredded cave-aged gruyère evenly and cook over low heat, undisturbed, until golden brown and starting to crisp, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let sit for 1 minute. Chop and sprinkle over air fried green beans. Top with 2 teaspoons fried shallots. * Kewpie-Furikake:* Toss cooked green beans with 1 tablespoon Kewpie or other store-bought or homemade Japanese-style mayonnaise and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon furikake before serving.
Special Equipment6-quart air fryer
Make Ahead and StorageCooked green beans can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to four days.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostI completely respect that you’d click into a story about ranking chocolate ice creams and expect to read about the merits of chocolate ice cream. That said, we are all aligned here, yeah? You love chocolate ice cream? You also feel that it is good? That it’s important? That it can make everything better? And, therefore, you would like to read some serious nonsense on which easily accessible brand of it is the best? Great! I have nothing more to say to introduce the subject and you’ve come to exactly the right place.
Recently, the Serious Eats team pulled together 10 brands of chocolate ice cream you're likely to find in your local supermarket and methodically, empirically, scientifically! tasted its way through them all in a quest to identify the very best. And we loved every minute of doing it!
Editor’s Note: We wanted to try Blue Bell, Ben & Jerry’s, Edy’s, Trader Joe’s, and Van Leeuwen’s chocolate options, but were unable to procure them the day of this particular taste test. But please! Slide into my DMs and tell me how wrong we are because Blue Bell, Ben & Jerry’s, Edy’s, Trader Joe’s, and Van Leeuwen’s chocolate ice creams are the best, I love it when people do that! <3
The Contenders Blue Bunny Soft Chocolate Frozen Dessert * Breyer’s Chocolate Ice Cream * Friendly’s Rich & Creamy Classic Chocolate * Häagen Dazs Chocolate Ice Cream * Halo Top Chocolate Light Ice Cream * Jeni’s Darkest Chocolate Ice Cream * Stop & Shop Chocolate Ice Cream, Churn Style * Tillamook Chocolate Ice Cream * Turkey Hill Dutch Chocolate, Premium Ice Cream * Wegman’s Chocolate Premium French Ice Cream
*This is technically a “frozen dairy dessert” rather than an “ice cream” (which is how all of these other contenders are classified). Per the FDA definition, ice cream, along with a lot of other qualifiers, “contains not less than 10 percent milkfat,” whereas frozen dairy desserts don’t hit that threshold.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostThe CriteriaA good chocolate ice cream is—wait for it—chocolatey. I write this knowing full well you’re laughing! I also write this knowing you’ve likely not sampled 10 chocolate ice creams in rapid succession, evaluating each one diligently for its level of chocolate flavor. Not all supermarket chocolate ice creams even taste like chocolate, you monsters! And when they do, they often don’t taste like chocolate enough, or, in rare instances, they taste like chocolate too much, to the point of eating like chalky cocoa powder or protein powder dredges.
The chocolate flavor should be rounded out with a significant punch of creaminess—you want to know you're eating a full-fat dairy product. We also prefer a chocolate ice cream that's been properly aerated (had air incorporated) so that it's dense yet soft, scoopable, and creamy, but not so much air (also called “overrun”) that it's foamy or reads as "light."
Another factor that contributed heavily to this taste test was each ice cream’s chew factor. Clockable bounce, body, and chew all correlated with the less aerated options, and this staff enjoyed almost every instance of that. It’s objectively better to feel like you chewed your ice cream while you ate it than it is to feel like it could’ve been sipped. Like, on a scale from "poorly made diner milkshake" to Tootsie Roll, a proper chocolate ice cream should go down like luxurious saltwater taffy someone left out on a perfect 70-degree day for many, many hours.
Of note: I was yanking a gigantic freezer door open and slamming it shut repeatedly over the course of a humid test kitchen day. Most of the ice creams in this test were delivered to the kitchen; a few were transported from home. Who knows how often they were frozen and unfrozen and re-frozen in transit even before then? All this to say, there was a variable mostly beyond our control that affected the iciness and meltiness of each sample. In a few cases, we ended up re-scooping and re-sampling where it felt like samples had been tarnished by the elements during their tumultuous time between their original containers and their sample bowls, and taste testers were able to ask for re-scoops as they felt necessary. I built that consideration into the sampling templates, asking people to separate temperature side effects out of their rankings as much as possible. As always, this is a very serious operation, and we operate seriously accordingly.
OK! The ice creams.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostThe RankingsHäagen Dazs Chocolate Ice Cream, 3.83/5The Serious Eats staff’s affinity for Häagen-Dazs ice cream has been well documented on this website over the course of a couple of previous taste tests, including our strawberry ice cream taste test and our vanilla ice cream taste test. It’s not our fault they’ve managed to identify the exact-correct flavor:gumminess:aeration ratio across mass-produced-and-distributed pints! Our director of product Alison wrote: “This is a classic ice cream texture and it has a classic ice cream smell.” Kelli compared the experience to drinking a smooth glass of syrupy chocolate milk. And Daniel, who nearly immediately asked “Häagen-Dazs?” after taking a bite, much preferred this texture to aaaany of the other samples that came his way that day.
Breyer’s Chocolate Ice Cream, 3.67/5Like absolute clockwork, voila: the second-place-via-nostalgia ranking! Each tester noted a sweet and middle-of-the-road chocolate flavor, as well as a creaminess that almost mattered more than the chocolate itself. I think these people just thrived in the mid-late ‘70s, ‘80s, and/or ‘90s? And/or they’d prefer to be…then than now? I’m not sure how else to explain how they manage to do this in every single taste test.
Wegman’s Chocolate Premium French Ice Cream, 3.33/5I was so pleased that my pre-test notes on this pint were “luxury! I feel the gumminess in each scoop in the loveliest way!” and that everyone’s notes then pointed to this texture in a positive way. Daniel wrote that the Wegman’s scoop was “denser than most others in a pretty good way,” and Alison called the ice cream “silky-stretchy,” noting it tasted like “the chocolate layer in the Carvel ice cream cake.” That is such a good and visceral comparison, oh my god. I am so sad I didn’t think to make it first! Anyway, there’s something about an ice cream you have to chew just a little bit, you know?
Jeni’s Darkest Chocolate Ice Cream, 3.16/5Visually arresting! Structurally significant! Packed with chocolate flavor, but maybe too much so? Kelli found the dark chocolate offering to be exactly her preferred level of chocolatiness saying she “could actually taste the chocolate! Joy!” Alison and Daniel identified the flavor as uber-concentrated, to the point that it gave them protein powder energy. That’s not necessarily a bad thing! In fact, it was probably a good thing, given everyone began their respective sassy shticks about wanting more concentrated chocolate flavor from here on out.
Friendly’s Rich & Creamy Classic Chocolate, 3.16/5Sweet, rich, and creamy, this ice cream was enjoyed by all! Kelli ranked it as her favorite one, and everyone else wrote lovely and mild things about it. My best guess is that deep in their wistful brains, they knew exactly what this was! They knew that it is best sucked down in a Fribble or piled on top of a fractured, vaguely stale sugar cone, enjoyed between the hours of 4 and 6 p.m. so that it ruins their dinners, They somehow just knew this stuff is not at its best in a beige paper bowl in a New York City test kitchen at, like, 10:30 in the morning.
Turkey Hill Dutch Chocolate, Premium Ice Cream, 3.16/5Everything about Turkey Hill ice cream is easy. It’s easy to scoop, it’s easy to eat, it’s easy to smell, and it’s easy to digest. Not unrelated: It’s also so aerated. If you want to eat one hearty bowl of substantive, soothing chocolate ice cream and have a cathartic cry, this is not for you. If you want to eat a quart of cloud-like chocolate pudding and then still feel your unresolved feelings, this is exactly for you!
Tillamook Chocolate Ice Cream, 3.1/5In yet another completely spot-on reference I am so upset I didn’t make, Kelli’s notes from this tasting read: “This reminds me of the chocolate ice cream that they used to give us in grade school from those little round cardboard containers and a little wooden tongue depressor instead of a spoon.” Ugh!!!! It’s too true!!! That’s exactly what it smelled and tasted and felt like!!! It was consistently smooth, decently foamy, and tasted very gentle.
Stop & Shop Chocolate Ice Cream, Churn Style, 3/5The only chocolate ice cream of the bunch to elicit the word “maltiness” in tasting notes! “At this serving temp, it's like eating semifreddo chocolate mousse…which isn't the worst,” Daniel said. The others noted the sweetness rather than chocolatey-ness of this offering, and craved more heft and chew in each bite.
Blue Bunny Soft Chocolate Frozen Dessert, 2.75/5Do you always sit down to eat your ice cream and think: “Ugh, I’d rather have pudding?” Firstly, that’s wild! Secondly, a perfect option somehow exists for you, you gorgeous and total weirdo, within this incredibly vast market. Enjoy your freezer pudding! (Again, to be clear, this option is technically classified as “frozen dairy dessert,” not as “ice cream.”)
Halo Top Chocolate Light Ice Cream, 2.16/5Listen. It’s like putting Lactaid brand cottage cheese in the official cottage cheese taste test. It’s not exactly nice or fair, but it has to be done. You know it doesn’t quite belong here, not among this group. You don’t exactly feel good about this. You don’t exactly sleep well at night. You know very well you’ve robbed everyone of the full-fat experience you promised them when you pretty much coerced them into participating in a vaguely professional ice cream-eating contest. But you put the Halo Top in your cart, telling yourself “they’ll forgive me eventually.” And you keep it moving.
Our Testing MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted with brands completely hidden and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample 1 first, while taster B will taste sample 6 first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria that vary from sample to sample. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation of actual results possible.
As a Palestinian-American, falafel was a staple of my childhood, and homemade falafel was always a treat. My mom tried many pre-made boxed mixes, but none of them ever came out to her liking, so she resorted to making falafel from scratch. Her homemade falafel tasted tremendously better than the boxed stuff, but she didn't make it that often because she hated the mess of frying the falafel balls. So when I started seeing "smash falafels” aka "smash falafel tacos"—in which falafel mixture is spread evenly on a pita or tortilla, then cooked in a skillet—on social media, I was intrigued but skeptical.
Serious Eats / Hannah HufhamAfter all, one of the biggest draws of falafel is the crispy-on-the-outside, fluffy-on-the-inside texture that comes from frying the falafel mixture. Could a pan-fried smash falafel possibly compete with the real deal? I soaked some dried chickpeas and gathered up some fresh herbs, spices, and the other ingredients I needed to make homemade falafel and got to testing.
I started by making a batch of Kenji's homemade falafel, but instead of cooking the balls in 3/4-inch of oil, I spread them flat on a pita round and cooked them in a lightly oiled skillet, falafel-side down, as I'd seen in various videos online. To my surprise, they were incredibly delicious. To further hone the recipe, I teamed up with our test kitchen colleague, Nicole Hopper, who put the recipe through the testing paces to be sure it could be replicated at home.
Smash falafel will never replace true falafel, but honestly, I think it's a star in its own right. If you’re looking for that herby falafel flavor, it’s there in full force, and you still get that iconic crispiness by cooking the falafel flat on a skillet. From there, you’re able to load up your sandwich with any toppings you like. Veggies and pickles add a fresh crunch, while tahini sauce ties everything together and keeps it moist. I like to dress mine like I would a falafel sandwich—tahini sauce, of course, but also tomatoes, lettuce, and pickled turnips—but you can go for your faves; zhug is great on this as well. Our team developed this recipe using a pita, but you can also use another soft flatbread, like lavash, or flour tortillas if you prefer. Once dressed, you have yourself a distinct version of a classic falafel that even my Arab mom enthusiastically approved!
4 Simple Tips for the Best Falafel Smash Tacos1. Go for thin, soft pita. This will make it easier to fold your taco with all of its fillings. If you have pita that isn’t fresh or feels on the drier side, you can steam it in the microwave to make it more pliable. Simply stack the pitas and wrap them in a damp paper towel. Microwave on high for about 10 seconds, until warmed through, steaming, and softened. 2. Cut each pita into two rounds. Splitting the pita in half (creating two intact rounds) so that you have thinner pita layers helps ensure that the ratio of bread to falafel is just right and that the falafel doesn’t get overshadowed by the breadiness. 3. Use a small palette knife to spread the falafel mixture. This will make it easy to spread the mixture and press down at the same time (your hands also work well for this if you don’t mind getting a little messy). Pressing down on the falafel will ensure that it stays attached to the pita, which will make cooking easier. 4. Griddle the falafel side only. This will ensure the falafel is crispy but the bread will remain soft enough for folding. If you flip the smash falafel over and also cook the bottom (the pita), then it cracks easily and becomes hard to fold.
Serious Eats / Hannah HufhamUsing a small serrated knife, carefully split pitas into top and bottom halves. Spread about 1/3 cup of homemade falafel into a thin layer over each pita half.
Serious Eats / Hannah HufhamHeat 2 teaspoons of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium. Working with 1 pita half at a time, place pita falafel-side-down into skillet and press firmly with a flat spatula. Cook, undisturbed, until falafel is golden brown and edges are crisped, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to plate, falafel-side-up. Repeat with remaining oil and pita, adding 1 teaspoon oil to skillet in between each pita.
Serious Eats / Hannah HufhamTop falafel with shredded lettuce, chopped tomatoes, chopped cucumber, and pickles. Drizzle with tahini sauce and zhug, if desired. Fold pitas in half over fillings and serve warm.
Special EquipmentSerrated knife, palette knife
NotesPita bread that has dried out can be steamed in the microwave to make it more pliable. To do this, just stack the pitas and wrap them in a damp paper towel, then microwave on high for about 10 seconds, until warmed through, steaming, and softened.
Make-Ahead and StorageThese pitas are best eaten immediately, but you can prepare all the components (falafel mixture, sauces, veggies) one day in advance and store them in separate airtight containers in the fridge.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeWell over a decade ago, when I was getting to know my then-boyfriend, now-husband in 2010—a tall, serious man from Gascony—I wanted to cook traditional French recipes to connect with him better. I first consulted Julia Child’s cookbook to make her famous boeuf bourguignon, but found it to be quite complicated. Then, I consulted a French cooking magazine that had a much simpler recipe and ended up with a dish that my husband still raves about to this day. That dish helped dissipate any fear I had about tackling French cuisine. After 14 years of successfully plying my husband with French classics, I can confidently say it’s harder to correctly pronounce blanquette de veau (veal stew) or gratin dauphinois (scalloped potatoes) than it is to make them.
French cuisine is often regarded as a benchmark of culinary excellence, with much attention paid to the savoir-faire, or know-how, of the country’s artisan bakers, celebrated chefs, and world-renowned cooking institutions. There’s a cloud of romanticism that surrounds French food, and the idea of tackling these fancy, often complicated recipes at home can be intimidating, to say the least. But with the right ingredients on hand, it’s easy to get started.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeIn France, my in-laws visit the marché (farmers market) at least once a week, pick up daily baguettes, and cook almost every meal at home. I always marvel at the ease with which my mother-in-law can whip up three-course meals with just a few meat and vegetable purchases from the market. At home in Los Angeles, I take my pantry cues from my French family, whose cupboards seem to always have just what we need. If you’re itching to start cooking a la Française, this list is for you—you’ll be equipped to throw together a myriad of Gallic gourmet dishes, both sweet and savory.
PantryDijon MustardThis pungent, tangy mustard was created in the mid-1800s in the Burgundy region of France and is used as a condiment for sandwiches, as well as in marinades, dressings, and sauces like gribiche and steak au poivre. True Dijon mustard, per French requirement, is made from brown seeds (Brassica juncea) or black ones (Brassica nigra) grown in Dijon, but because mustard seeds are largely imported into France to keep up with demand, many French homes will use a Dijon-style mustard from brands like Amora or Maille. If you’re searching for a genuine Dijon mustard in the States, you may be able to find a jar of Edmond Fallot, the only large producer still making their mustard entirely using Dijon seeds. I always keep a 500-gram crock of this brand on hand as I prefer 100% Dijon-made mustard, but you may have an easier time finding Maille in the States.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeVinegarIn a country that produces a ton of wine and cider, it makes sense that there is also a thriving vinegar production. Typically made of leftover or over-oxidized wine (or cider), French vinegars come in an array of flavors—white wine, red wine, raspberry, quince, and more. A staple for making vinaigrette and marinade, vinegar is also an excellent addition to certain sauces to impart freshness and acidity, like in a sweet-and-sour gastrique. I always keep red wine vinegar on hand for salad dressing, and though it’s not French, sherry vinegar is commonly used in southwestern France—it's slightly milder and can be more pleasant for those with palates that are more sensitive to sour flavors.
Dried Herbs and SpicesA typical French household will have a selection of dried herbs and spices that are used again and again in everyday cooking.
Serious Eats / Debbie Wee Thyme adds a citrusy, floral quality to roast chicken and sautéed mushrooms. * Nutmeg is an essential ingredient in béchamel sauce and can add a touch of warmth to soups and stews, like blanquette de veau and boeuf bourguignon. * Bay leaves are used as part of a bouquet garni, or bundle of herbs, (along with fresh parsley and thyme) to impart flavor to stocks and other dishes like navarin d’agneau (lamb stew) or pot-au-feu. * Piment d'espelette is made from peppers grown in the French Basque countryside that are dried and ground into flakes or a powder. Similar to paprika but with just a touch of heat, it’s typically one of the spiciest ingredients in a French spice cabinet. I use piment d’espelette in poulet Basquaise (Basque-style chicken) mostly, but it’s super versatile and can be used wherever you might add black pepper, like on a steak, over roasted chicken, and even on veggies. * Herbes de Provence* is a multi-purpose dried herb blend typically made of marjoram, rosemary, tarragon, lavender, fennel, and thyme—plants found along the Mediterranean coast. Its fragrant notes and complex flavor profile are excellent in a marinade or as a dry rub on fish and chicken.
Stock and Demi-GlaceIdeally, we’d all have time to make stocks and demi-glace from scratch for soups, stews, and sauces. In reality, many households—including mine!—rely on powdered versions from Knorr or Maggi for convenience, though they may lack the depth, flavor, and gelatin content that gives richness to homemade versions. If you prefer non-powdered versions, you can keep pre-portioned homemade stock in the freezer, whether chicken stock or beef stock, and look for jarred demi-glace that can be diluted to your preferred concentration.
Dark ChocolateFrance’s proximity to Switzerland and Belgium means that good quality chocolate is widely available. Aside from being an excellent snack, dark chocolate is used for popular French sweets like mousse au chocolat, pot de crème, and mi-cuit chocolat (also known as chocolate lava cake). It’s also a surprise addition to certain beef-based stews, like boeuf bourguignon. I like to keep a bar made of at least 70% cacao on hand, like Côte d’Or's 70% Dark Chocolate Bar, for cooking or snacking.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeePreserved IngredientsFood preservation is huge in France, with some of the most popular foods made in bulk and stored for use throughout the year.
Serious Eats / Debbie Wee Jams, jellies, and preserves, both store-bought or homemade, are often eaten in the morning slathered on a piece of toasted, buttered baguette. When I’m in France, I love to pick up ultra-local jams made of mirabelle plums or rosehip, but in the US, I buy Bonne Maman preserves, especially when they’re on sale. * Olives are a popular happy hour snack, and can also be used in tagines or made into tapenade. Bright green Picholine olives are my favorite, and you can’t go wrong with olives de Nice, a black olive similar to kalamata that shines in a salade Niçoise. * Cornichons are a mini pickle that can be added to a French ham and butter sandwich (jambon beurre) or served alongside melted raclette in the winter. * Duck confit* is a specialty of southwestern France, made of seasoned duck legs simmered and then preserved in their own fat. They are used in cassoulet or served alongside a green salad and crispy potatoes.
Jarred or Tinned FishSeafood conserves are increasingly popular across Europe, but you’re more likely to find only a few types at home. Anchovies are very popular in southeastern France, along the Mediterranean, and are used to make a quick pissaladière for lunch or apéro. Canned sardines are often grilled or pan-fried, then lightly dressed with a squeeze of lemon and served on bread. And jarred tuna, preserved in olive oil, is essential for making a salade Niçoise and pan bagnat.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeWine and Other SpiritsInexpensive, yet drinkable red and white wines are de rigueur for cooking coq au vin or moules marinières, but I also like to keep a bottle of dark rum for adding flavor to crepe batter, and Cognac or Armagnac for enhancing the sauce for steak au poivre.
FridgeSalted ButterButter is a ubiquitous ingredient in French cuisine. Besides being the backbone of many baked goods like croissants, it is used generously for sautéeing vegetables, basting steaks, adding a glossy finish to omelets, and incorporating a certain je ne sais quoi to mashed potatoes. And while you can certainly use unsalted butter for most of these applications, the French overwhelmingly prefer salted butter for general use—both for cooking and spreading on bread. Made in either Normandy or Brittany, the best butter is yellow with flecks of crunchy sea salt. While this type of butter is everywhere in France, it can be difficult to find the same style here in the US, but Trader Joe’s carries a salted butter from Brittany that is worthy of a spot in your kitchen; if you can’t find it, Kerrygold from Ireland is a solid choice that is widely available.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeCrème Fraîche This creamy dairy product resembles American sour cream but with a milder tanginess. I use this for making quiche and thickening mushroom soup, but it’s also delicious when served atop fresh strawberries. Crème fraîche can be quite expensive in the US, so you can always make homemade crème fraîche with just a couple of ingredients.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeYogurtThe variety of yogurts in a French supermarket never ceases to amaze me—most stores have entire aisles dedicated to the product. Yogurt, typically full fat, is often eaten for breakfast or dessert, either plain, with a spoonful of preserves or chestnut cream, or sprinkled with raw sugar (called cassonade in French). Since most households have at least one individual pot of yogurt on hand at all times, it’s also possible to throw together a yogurt cake at a moment’s notice, using the yogurt container to measure out the rest of the ingredients. In the US, I opt for La Fermière or Oui by Yoplait, which are the two closest brands in terms of consistency and flavor to French versions—very creamy, thick, and with a stronger tanginess than their American counterparts.
CheeseFrom kids to adults, most French people—unless they have issues with dairy—enjoy all different kinds of cheeses on a regular basis. You’ll often find at least one type of cheese in the refrigerator reserved for a post-meal cheese course, like Brie or Camembert. But for preparing meals, Emmental, Gruyère, or Comté is the variety of choice for sandwiches, making quiches, melting in gratin, or sprinkling atop salads. There’s a shredded Swiss-Gruyere blend at Trader Joe’s that I buy at least once a month and use for croque monsieur or when I’m making Mornay sauce, bechamel’s cheese-laced cousin.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeBaconIn the US and UK, bacon is more commonly eaten for breakfast, but the French typically use lardon, cubes of fatty bacon, to flavor various dishes. Added to salads, on top of tarte flambée, in quiche Lorraine, or for incorporating layers of complexity to stews, lardons are more of a condiment than a main protein in most instances.
FreezerFrozen Puff PastryIt’s pretty easy to throw together a shortcrust pastry for quiche or a tart with flour, butter, salt, and water. But laminated dough like puff pastry is a lot harder, so many people buy it frozen and keep it around for making tarts, pies, and appetizers like vol-au-vent. Puff pastry can be sliced into strips, twisted, brushed with egg wash, sprinkled with cheese, and baked for an easy snack, or rolled with sugar and baked to make palmier cookies. The ingredient acts as a blank canvas for culinary creativity, and the possibilities are almost endless.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeFrozen VegetablesEven though France relies heavily on weekly open-air markets and their local grocery stores for produce, it isn’t surprising to find a few bags of frozen vegetables stashed away in a French person’s freezer “just in case.” Frozen vegetables are typically picked at their peak, preserving much of their nutrients and flavor during the freezing process. Inspired by the French, I've started buying frozen versions of fussier vegetables that usually need lots of prep—artichokes, fava beans, string beans, and peas—and also like to keep a bag of mixed vegetables (carrots, peas, corn, and green beans) on hand to make macedoine, one of my husband’s favorite salads from childhood.
Serious Eats / Debbie Wee
Serious Eats / Tim ChinIn the recipe development world, it often seems like there’s no problem that brining can’t solve. Dry, chalky chicken? Bland, overcooked salmon? Unevenly cooked, wrinkly beans? Brining makes all your problems go away.
Beyond beans, brining is known to work for some specific types of vegetables. Salting eggplant before cooking, for instance, is a long practiced method, and salting cabbage, cucumbers, and other water-rich vegetables is commonly employed for salads, pickles, and more. For the most part, brining is meant to drive water out of these items, concentrating flavor and firming up their otherwise floppy texture—or conversely, softening some vegetables to tenderize them.
But is that where vegetable brining ends? Is there a place for brining other vegetables, like the more waxy, dry, and starchy options—things like broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, winter squash, green beans, or potatoes? I’d wager that most people don’t brine these items before throwing them in the oven or on the grill. But should they be brined? I got to testing to find out.
Defining "Brine"By the strictest definition, a brine is a solution of salt and water. In modern cooking parlance, brining has expanded to mean simply treating foods with salt for a period of time—either with a “wet” brine (saltwater solution) or a “dry” brine (just salt). Dry brines manage to act as brines by drawing water out of the ingredient and then dissolving into it, forming a wet brine with the ingredient's natural moisture. (Brines can also include sugar, but for the purposes of this discussion—and simplicity—let’s just stick to salt.)
Which Vegetables Are Good for Brining?A Question of Water ContentFor meats and fish, the benefits of brining are clear: Salt not only penetrates the tissue and seasons it, but it also enhances texture by dissolving proteins (like myosin), preventing them from contracting as much during cooking. Limited contraction means the meat holds on to more water, so it tastes juicier and more tender.
But vegetables don’t have any of the filamentous (fibrous) proteins that make meat, well, meat. There’s no dissolving of proteins or tenderizing going on here. Instead, vegetables contain polysaccharides like cellulose and pectin, sugars, and many other starches, among other components. Most importantly, vegetables have cell walls which are semi-permeable to salt and water.
Serious Eats / Tim ChinSalt tends to move away from areas of high concentration to areas of low concentration across a cell membrane in a process known as diffusion. And together with osmosis—the movement of water from areas of lower (salt) concentration to areas of higher concentration—these processes are crucial for preparing vegetables like cucumbers for pickling, or cabbage for sauerkraut or kimchi. Osmosis drives water out of the plants’ cell membranes, while salt diffuses across those membranes and seasons the vegetables deeply.
That’s all well and good if you’re a high-water content vegetable without much of a tough exterior. But what about the rest? Consider the following table:
Most people don’t usually brine these vegetables. Why? Maybe because they are perceived as “drier.” Certainly vegetables like sweet potatoes, potatoes, or carrots have a lower relative water content. On the flip side, broccoli and cauliflower are over 90 percent water. Meanwhile, eggplant is about 90 percent water. So what makes eggplant a worthier candidate for salting or brining than, say, broccoli?
The truth is, I don’t know the reason. But clearly, water percentage is not the only part of this story.
A Question of "Waxy" Skins and PeelsIf water content isn't a good predictor of a vegetable's affinity for brining, is it possible it has to do with the nature of the vegetable's peel and flesh? Are "waxy" vegetables less appropriate for brining?
When we say “waxy” vegetables, we refer to vegetables that don’t seem permeable to water. But the truth is that most vegetables—even the ones we typically do brine, like eggplant and cucumbers—have a skin (or epidermis) and a layer of epicuticular wax, a naturally occurring, water-repelling substance on the outermost layers of vegetables and fruits that prevents water loss and potential harm from pathogens. This feature is most apparent with foods like carrots or winter squash, but it's present in most vegetables. You can also see epicuticular wax at work in the leaves of uncut kale, as water beads up and runs off them in the rain or under the faucet.
Serious Eats / Tim ChinFor the most part, we peel or cut vegetables to access the flesh beneath. And in order to brine, peeling, cutting, or physically breaking the plant’s cells (think smashing cucumbers, or thinly slicing and then massaging cabbage) are essential steps for success. It seems that even here, there are no easy rules about a vegetable's peel that might provide a hint as to whether it's good to brine or not, since peeling and cutting are routine parts of prep in many vegetable brining situations.
The Testing: Brining Every Vegetable in SightHere’s my hypothesis: Under the right conditions, you can brine any vegetable in a solution of salt and water; given enough time and a high enough salt concentration, you will observe some positive difference in seasoning and/or texture.
To test, I submerged various vegetables in a 5% salt solution for varying lengths of time. For vegetables with a defined skin, I peeled or cut them to expose the inner flesh and maximize any chances of salt transfer. I then drained the vegetables and cooked them, either by roasting, broiling, or some other heat treatment. I weighed each sample before and after brining to measure any water loss (or gain?), and evaluated everything for taste and texture.
I repeated this testing for 8% and 10% brines.
Here are the results, highlighting a few vegetables:
Green BeansSerious Eats / Tim ChinGreen beans have a leathery exterior that seems to repel water. Because of this, I opted to trim the ends of each bean to facilitate easier transport of water/salt into the beans. (I even halved some crosswise to compare any differences, though it didn’t seem to matter in the end.) After brining, I drained the green beans, tossed them in a measured amount of oil, and broiled them for exactly seven minutes.
Across the board, the beans tasted saltier as brining time increased. Interestingly, longer-brined beans tended to cook faster and wilt more than shorter-brined beans. Why? You’ll notice that as brining time increased, the beans seemed to lose water weight. Water is what keeps plant cells crisp (turgid), and the cooking process drives water out of those cells. I suspect that longer-brined green beans had less water prior to cooking, so wilting happened more quickly.
The verdict: Were brined beans objectively better than un-brined beans? Across all salt concentrations, on the extreme end (12 hours), I’d say no; the beans just got too salty and became too wilty. But around one to four hours—especially at the eight percent concentration—the level of seasoning was ideal, and compared to longer-brined beans, they didn’t wilt so dramatically, retaining a bit of their color and structure through broiling. I’d say that’s a win for brining—especially for high-heat applications where you might want to retain some crisp-tender bite.
Russet PotatoesSerious Eats / Tim ChinHere I left potatoes unpeeled, cut them into 2-inch chunks, then brined them. After brining, I coated the potatoes in oil and air fried them at 400°F for 30 minutes.
Brined cut potatoes took on plenty of salt as time elapsed, with a sweet spot between 30 minutes and four hours. Like green beans, the 12-hour brined samples were aggressively salty. And again, the potatoes appeared to lose water weight over time—as much as 10 percent after 12 hours.
Texturally, brined potatoes had a creamier texture as time elapsed. By comparison, unbrined potatoes were fluffier and more starchy. But how much of that difference comes from salt? After all, soaking potatoes in water is a common practice intended to give foods like french fries a creamier cooked texture. To nip this in the bud, I ran an additional test comparing potatoes brined for 12 hours versus potatoes soaked in water only for 12 hours. As expected, the resulting textures were nearly identical—so the salt is primarily adding seasoning, while the water alters the texture.
The verdict: If you want creamier, more evenly seasoned potatoes, then brining is beneficial. I suggest a 5% to 8% brine for at least 30 minutes and up to four hours for optimal results.
Broccoli and Cauliflower CrownsCruciferous vegetables are a tricky case for brining. While the stems are waxy and seemingly impervious to water, the florets are porous, presumably trapping some brine between the buds. That means that at minimum, we might expect brined florets (of any duration) to be more seasoned than unbrined florets; it also raises the question of whether this type of vegetable can be brined evenly, or whether the process results in florets that are seasoned differently from the stem sections.
Serious Eats / Tim ChinFirst, I ran this test with whole crowns, only trimming away the thickest bottom stems, then submerging the crowns in brine. I repeated the tests with separated florets as well. After brining, I coated the vegetables in oil and roasted each sample at 400°F and evaluated.
Across all cases, I didn’t see much moisture loss. I attribute this to the fact that I wasn’t really peeling or exposing much of the flesh beneath the protective periderm. Alternatively, it’s possible that water was trapped in the florets between individual buds. As for taste, there was little to no seasoning in the cauliflower samples brined up to one hour. At four hours, the benefits were more noticeable—good salt penetration to the deeper parts of the florets, and acceptable seasoning at the stems. At 12 hours, the salt level was just too much.
I saw similar results for broccoli crowns: virtually no seasoning after 30 minutes, minimal seasoning up to one hour, and ideal seasoning around four hours. This time, salt penetration into the broccoli florets seemed deeper than cauliflower. My guess is that the florets were less tightly spaced in broccoli than cauliflower, allowing more brine to seep into the spaces over time.
Separated, individual florets had slightly more seasoning across all tests. As expected, cutting and separating exposed more of the interior plant cells, which probably allowed more contact with brine. Here, one hour was sufficient for discernible benefits.
Texturally, I saw no major differences between unbrined and brined samples. But the big advantage was flavor: Brined samples tasted more vegetal, slightly sweeter, more like themselves.
The verdict: For more evenly seasoned, less bitter, sweeter tasting cruciferous vegetables, brine whole crowns for around four hours in a 5% to 10% brine before cooking. If you’re in a hurry, you can separate broccoli or cauliflower crowns into individual florets to speed up salt penetration, and brine for up to one hour.
Sweet PotatoesSerious Eats / Tim ChinSweet potatoes have the lowest water content of all vegetables I tested. I peeled, cut, and brined 1 ½-inch chunks, then roasted them at 400°F for 30 minutes. Even after 12 hours of brining, there was minimal moisture loss. Texturally, longer brined sweet potatoes had a creamier interior than shorter brined samples—just like russet potatoes. Unbrined sweet potatoes also tended to brown more quickly than all brined samples (this could be unrelated to the salt in brine and more to do with the brine's water washing away surface starches that are prone to quicker browning).
The verdict: If you want creamier, well seasoned sweet potatoes, brining them for up to four hours in a 5% to 8% salt solution is optimal. Be sure to peel and cut the potatoes for optimal salt penetration.
Brussels SproutsSerious Eats / Tim ChinBrussels sprouts are essentially mini cabbages. Their structure features overlapping leaves, which form random spaces between those leaves. Because of those nooks and crannies, we’d expect halved Brussels sprouts to hold onto more water if submerged in a brine. And for the most part, the results show this: Regardless of duration, all samples gained weight after brining.
After brining, I coated the Brussels sprouts in oil, then air fried them for 30 minutes at 425°F. In terms of taste and texture, I didn’t see much benefit until at least one hour of brining at all salt concentrations. Brussels sprouts brined for 30 minutes showed uneven browning, a more bitter, vegetal flavor with a raw mustard finish; they also had more crunch and rawness.
In contrast, longer brined sprouts were saltier, creamier in texture, sweeter, less bitter, and surprisingly, had more even browning. Why more even browning? There’s some evidence that salt enhances the rate of browning in certain foods. Maybe salt facilitates more even browning in this case by drawing out initial moisture, but I don’t have enough evidence to say for sure.
The verdict: Brined Brussels sprouts are a win. Opt to halve them, then brine them in up to a 10 percent salt solution for at least one and up to four hours. When roasted, the Brussels sprouts are sweeter, less bitter, more evenly browned, and more tender-creamy than unbrined versions.
Other VegetablesOther highlights in testing included carrots, kabocha squash, and butternut squash. These vegetables behaved similarly, and all benefited from at least one hour in brine.
Limitations of TestingClearly, brining has a place in enhancing flavor and even the texture of certain vegetables. But it’s not a cure-all for every vegetable, and it’s difficult to make blanket statements. In general, I found optimal results brining between one and four hours at salt concentrations between five and eight percent.
For high-heat applications, brining tough vegetables like broccoli, cauliflower, and even green beans can be transformative. But I’ll admit, I didn’t test lower, slower, gentle cooking applications.
Finally, my testing wasn’t exhaustive. There are dozens of vegetables that I didn’t test. But hopefully I captured a wide swath of options across a range of vegetable types to give a general picture of possible benefits.
If You've Got Time, Put It in BrineVegetable cookery is often an afterthought. It can play second fiddle to more show-stopping mains or substantive dishes. So next time you’re marinating your steaks or brining your chicken breasts at the peak of a summer grilling season, consider brining some vegetables too. With a little planning, you can transform your broccoli from bland and bitter to tender, savory, and even sweet—just be sure to dry off any brined vegetables that you want to cook very quickly over high heat, since the excess water can slow browning.
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangJust as there are countless types of cocktail glasses and serving techniques, there are also many ways to make ice…and I’ve tried many of them. I’m partial to a small cube or two with a pour of whiskey and a huge cube in my Boulevardier; I’m a big fan of crushed ice for margaritas, and I love seeing a Collins spear in a tall drink. After having an especially good cocktail at a bar, I often mull over how I can approximate the drink at home. When it comes to its crystal-clear ice cube, I thought, "Well, that’s just one of the perks of going to a killer cocktail bar." But after mulling it over a bit more, I wondered if it might indeed be possible to make crystal-clear ice at home. After some research, I discovered the True Cubes ice cube tray, which exceeded all expectations and allowed me to bring the magic of clear ice into my home bar.
Why You Need Clear Ice in Your Cocktails Serious Eats / Adam RothbarthThere are aesthetic reasons for clear ice, and there are also practical ones. First and foremost, putting a clear ice cube in a drink is simply very cool—seeing straight through your cocktail or finishing a drink and finding a ghostly square at the bottom of your glass blows one's mind. Additionally, the seasoned imbiber can tell a lot about a cocktail by its color, and cloudy ice can affect the hue. Using butterfly pea powder to give your drink a dreamy blue vibe, or subbing a different amaro for Campari to lend an unexpected flavor and hue to your Negroni? Awesome! Sadly, nothing distracts from your creation like some big, honkin’, cloudy ice cubes.
Furthermore, it can help rid your water of any off-flavors. Depending on the source, your water may contain chemicals like chlorine as well as different concentrations of minerals, which can affect the taste of your drink. According to the World Health Organization, drinking water with under 300 milligrams per liter (equivalent to 300 ppm, or parts per million) of TDS (total dissolved solids) is considered “excellent.” This means that there are substances in the water (often intentionally added, like chlorine), but it’s still safe to drink (and its taste is tolerable). Just for reference, I live in Chicago, and my tap water was 129 ppm when I last measured it, which is quite good. The level of TDS canaffect the taste of ice, which, in turn, changes the flavor of your cocktail as it melts.
The True Cubes tray also claims to create ice that melts slower than conventional ice, allowing you to enjoy your beverage without over-dilution, which I've found to be true.
How the True Cubes Tray Works Serious Eats / Adam RothbarthThis ice maker uses directional freezing to help remove impurities. The tray has three components—a top silicone tray (which makes four ice cubes), a bottom silicone tray (which collects the leftover water), and an insulated box.
You begin by filling up the entire tray with water. After it’s full, you stick it in the freezer and let it solidify for 18 to 24 hours, ideally—at this point, the cubes will be frozen, but the bottom will still be liquid enough that you won’t have trouble removing the trays. (The lower compartment is super insulated, so its interior won’t freeze until after the top is already frozen.) Since the top of the tray is exposed, it freezes from the top down, naturally clarifying the water and pushing particles and bubbles toward the bottom of the tray. After about a day, the cubes will be thoroughly frozen and clear, ready for your next Old Fashioned.
The results speak for themselves: just look at that crystal clear cube!Serious Eats / Adam RothbarthI tested the effectiveness of this using my 129 ppm tap water—and after melting one of the clear cubes, it was only 7 ppm. (You read that right!) By comparison, one of my big, cloudy cubes ended up at 127 ppm. That’s a pretty massive difference, but a remarkably easy one to achieve if you’re looking to incorporate the wonder of clear ice into your next drink.
FAQsCan boiling water make clear ice?When trying the True Cubes, I made ice cubes in a regular tray from boiled water and they were cloudy. Boiling can push out some of the air bubbles trapped in water, but you really need a top-down freezing device to ensure you get all the impurities out.
Is clear ice safer than white ice? If you’re using drinkable water, cloudy ice is perfectly safe, but clear ice will have fewer impurities.
What is the best water for crystal-clear ice cubes? True Cubes says, “Tap water is recommended. Distilled, reverse osmosis, or well water may not produce the best cubes.” That said, the site does go on to recommend using bottled water if your tap water isn’t getting clear enough.
Is timing the freeze really that important? Definitely. Depending on your freezer, your cubes won't be totally frozen if you go under the recommended 18 to 24 hours. If you let it go significantly longer than 24 hours, the cubes will be much harder to take out, since all of the water below will have frozen, trapping the second tray. Then, you’ll have to let it thaw a bit and run some warm water on the box’s exterior.
Why We’re the Experts* Adam Rothbarth is a Serious Eats contributor. * He previously served as the Food & Kitchen Writer for VICE’s shopping page, Rec Room. * He currently is a news and deals writer for Food & Wine. * Adam has tested and written about everything bar-related, including cocktail-making machines, wine fridges, bar tools, glasses, coolers, and cocktail books. * He’s constantly on the hunt for the absolute best glasses, spirits, and ice molds for his home bar.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostI’ve been writing on the internet professionally for many, many years now. Over that period of time, I’ve come to realize it’s smartest to provide readers (all of whom are likely to bounce quickly–yes, even you) with the necessary context for understanding eeeverything they’re about to read as quickly as possible in the introduction of the piece if you want a chance of them sticking around. So, if you’re still reading, here’s the context required for fully internalizing this one:
I am a Jew from New Jersey who recently moderated a cream cheese taste test. All of the cream cheese taste-testers live in or around New York City. There were a lot of correct opinions voiced in the room that day. Mine, which you’ll read woven throughout the below entries, is the most correct one.
Anyway! It took so long to deliberate over what makes a good cream cheese that we actually had to reschedule this taste test thrice. After said weeks of arguing that, no, it did not make sense to conduct three separate taste tests to determine separately which brick, spread, and whipped cream cheeses are the best, I got all appropriate parties in a room one day. They all had access to one or two plain bagels, as well as a curated selection of three categories of cream cheese. All this to say: The SE team has pulled together eightbrands of cream cheese you're likely to find in your local supermarket, and methodically, empirically, scientifically! tasted its way through them all in a quest to identify the very best. And we viscerally loved every minute of it!
Before you read on, it’s important to note: We separated these cheeses into three subcategories because they are very much are different products! Blocks (or bricks!) of cream cheese have little moisture or air mixed in. Spreads have some air whipped in! Whipped cream cheeses are the lightest and airiest offering, with the most air (and stabilizers) whipped in of all. This difference becomes apparent (1) the second you lay eyes on them side-by-side, and (2) when you subsequently attempt to transfer each to its second location. It physically takes more effort to grab a hunk of freshly room-temp cream cheese from a block than it does to remove the same amount from a spread. It doesn't take any energy to move a serving of whipped cream cheese spread anywhere.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostMore helpfully, perhaps, is that you can see these differences illustrated across the weight and caloric content variations within the same brand. Philadelphia’s Whipped Original, for example, says its serving size of 2 tablespoons comes in around 22 grams (as well as with 50 calories, 1 gram of protein, and 4.5 grams of fat per serving). Its spread counterpart? Thirty-one grams = 2 tablespoons of product, 80 calories, 2 grams of protein, and 7 grams of fat per serving. Finally, the Philadelphia brick yields 28 grams per ounce and 100 calories, 2 grams of protein, and 10 grams of fat per serving. This light (whipped), medium (spread), and most robust (block) breakdown rings true for each brand with multiple offerings across this taste test.
OK. Time to dance.
The ContendersBlocks* Organic Valley * Philadelphia * Tillamook
Spreads* 365 Cream Cheese Spread * Nancy’s Probiotic Cream Cheese Spread * Organic Valley Cream Cheese Spread * Philadelphia Original Cream Cheese Spread
Whips* 365 Whipped Cream Cheese * Philadelphia Whipped Original * Temp Tee
The CriteriaA good cream cheese, no matter what form it comes in, is tangy. Not so tangy that you’ll wonder how sour cream ended up on your bagel (god forbid), but tangy enough that you’ll know you made a better choice than putting butteron your bagel (god forbid). A restrained tang. There should also be enough salt and creaminess to lend a certain heft to each bite. You want to immediately know: “What I’m eating right now? This could be the foundation of a great cheesecake one day.” Again, regardless of form, your cream cheese should spread easily. Don’t look at me like that. No, not all cream cheeses (not even all cream cheese spreads!) spread seamlessly. There are a lot of stabilizers out here in these parts!!
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostThe RankingsBRICKSPhiladelphia Cream Cheese, 4.3/5Well, well, well. Fancy meeting you here, etc., etc. This brick had a “good lactic tang in a mild milky base," Daniel wrote. "It was thick, creamy, smooth, and spreadable,” he added. It was “creamy with just a hint of sweetness,” Kelli notes. Our stop-in taste-tester du jour/director of product Allison Mango echoed Daniel and Kelli’s thoughts: “It’s got a little tang at the end. I really liked the taste; it’s nice and creamy with a little saltiness.” At the conclusion of the test, everyone wanted to know if they’d picked the Philadelphia brick, and they all had. It’s just kinda nice when I don’t have to pretend like I’m shocked about a taste test winner, ya know?
Organic Valley Cream Cheese, 3.3/5An interesting silver medal winner! Opinions were split here. The flavor was lovely. “Very creamy with the right amount of sour and salt—reminds me of cottage cheese flavor,” our photographer Jordan wrote, but the texture raised flags from the group. It was distinctly stabilized with gums and spread more like all the “spread” offerings than any of the other blocks. See: quickly and slippery. Either way, it Tasted Like Cream Cheese.
Tillamook Cream Cheese, 3.13/5A deliciously sweet offering, Tillamook cream cheese was enjoyed by all…with the caveat that they’d prefer it on a lox-laden bagel to compensate for a lack of salt. Daniel called what it did have a mere “background salt,” and that lack of saltiness is what ultimately brought this one down to third place.. So creamy! So sweet! Spread very nicely! Just…so little salt!
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostSPREADSPhiladelphia Original Cream Cheese Spread, 4/5Hello again, you! You tangy, spreadable, classically cream cheesy you! It just felt correct on a bagel, is all!
365 Cream Cheese Spread, 3.33/5Another dark horse contender! 365 offerings tend to…tank…in our taste tests, so I did quadruple-check this math. But no, the testers enjoyed this as a straightforward option. It checked the appropriate saltiness and tanginess boxes as well as the creaminess one, but every time I see a singular word called out in every tester’s comments, I am legally required to point it out. In this case? “Smooth.” Jordan called it “super smooth,” Allison called it “buttery smooth,” Kelli called it “smooooth,” and Daniel, finally, and true-to-form, called it “almost too smooth.” Idk, guys. If you prefer a grittier (?) cream cheese, don’t buy this one? I guess?
Nancy’s Probiotic Cream Cheese Spread, 3.25/5In Nancy’s defense, she is extremely upfront about the inclusion of culture in her cream cheese. In my coworkers’ defense, they had no idea what they were eating. These comments were riddled with mentions of what an overly sour product it was. Still, the softness and smoothness of the product came through in every bite. They liked it! They were just confused for a sec!
Organic Valley Cream Cheese Spread, 2.66/5Nearly as sour as Nancy’s and with far fewer cultures, I fear.
WHIPSTemp Tee, 3.88/5A sign the people I work with like a thing? They use as few words as humanly possible to describe it. Here are the entries for Temp Tee:
“Good tang.” -Daniel
“Air-ier, fluffier! Like whipped cream!” -Allison
“Amazing flavor!” -Jordan
“Floofy.” -Kelli
All of these opinions are correct.
365 Whipped Cream Cheese, 3.88/5The most visually frosting-like of the whole bunch. In fact, it looked so much like frosting it gave a few people pause. But it ultimately tasted light and airy without tipping into over-aeration, and it was not nearly as sweet as some feared it might be.
Philadelphia Whipped Original, 2.86/5I’m not sure how to end the bit here. Is it, like, “What’s a girl like you doing in a place like this?” Or more of an emphatic: “You?? Here?? Now??” On the positive side, it was very smooth and aesthetically very pleasing. Idk. It was just wetter and still, somehow, also foamier than the other two whipped cream cheeses.
Our Testing MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted completely anonymously and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample 1 first, while taster B will taste sample 6 first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria that vary from sample to sample. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation of actual results possible.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostI always have a stash of wild salmon fillets in my freezer that I typically turn to for a quick dinner once or twice a week. I have many different ways of dressing it up—miso, sour cream and dill, lemon and pepper, Creole spice blend, etc.—but my most frequent way of preparing salmon is slathering it with the simple maple-mustard mayo I'm sharing here.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostMaple and mustard may seem like odd bedfellows, but it's a combination I learned works very well after seeing it in this EatingWell recipe developed by Carolyn Malcoun. (I worked in EatingWell's Vermont offices for a couple of years and I learned about the many great uses for the state's excellent maple syrup in the EatingWell test kitchen.) Over the years, I've played with that base recipe, tweaking the proportions, ingredients, and technique, to land on what to me is the perfect maple-mustard salmon formula. Read on for my tips for making this 15-minute salmon and to get the full recipe.
7 Tips for the Best Maple-Mustard Salmon1. Don't be afraid of frozen salmon. Unless you happen to be in the Pacific Northwest or Alaska during salmon season, the chances that you are getting wild salmon that hasn't been previously frozen are low. A lot of "fresh" salmon has been thawed at the market before you bought it. But when you buy frozen salmon, you get excellent quality fish that was frozen shortly after being caught (often it's done right on the ship). As I mentioned above, I always have wild salmon—which I prefer in flavor and texture to farmed—in my freezer. That's because I belong to a community supported fishery (CSF), which means I pay a fisher-owned collective in advance for a giant box of flash-frozen salmon fillets that I pick up locally once a year. (If you are interested in joining a CSF, check out Seafood Finder's Local Catch Network, which is how I found my CSF, Illiamna.) 2. Broil, don't bake. One of my main tweaks to how I prepare salmon was inspired by Daniel's broiled salmon with harissa-lime mayonnaise. As he notes in the headnote for the recipe, broiling rather than baking the fish allows you to sear the outside with an intense blast of heat while leaving the interior tender and juicy. 3. Add some fat in the form of mayo. Also inspired by Daniel's harissa-lime salmon, I added some mayo as an "insulator" to help keep the salmon moist and tender. As a Southerner, I believe in the power of mayonnaise to improve most foods, so I wasn't too surprised that adding some mayo to the combination of mustard and mayo had not just texture benefits, but also flavor benefits—the fat in the mayo really rounds out the mustard (there's a reason Dijonaise exists). And because wild salmon is typically leaner than farmed, a little extra fat is welcome. 4. Use real maple syrup. I hope this goes without saying, but for the best flavor make sure to buy real maple syrup (and store it in the fridge), not the fake stuff. If you don't have maple syrup on hand, the recipe also works well with brown sugar. 5. Add a tiny bit of heat with chiles. Another element of this recipe that I cribbed from Carolyn Malcoun's baked salmon recipe is the addition of a smoked paprika or chipotle powder. Either one will add a hint of smokiness and a bit of heat for a nice contrast to the sweet maple syrup and tangy Dijon. Simple cayenne pepper works too, and I also love Diaspora Co.'s Sirārakhong Hāthei chiles. 6. Consider making extra mayo-mustard-maple mixture. The recipe below makes just enough sauce to slather the salmon but if you'd like to serve more on the side as a sauce—which I highly recommend—simply double the first four ingredients in the recipe. It's particularly nice to have extra to serve on leftover cold salmon in a salad. 7. Scale the recipe up or down to suit your needs. This recipe serves four to six, but more often than not I scale it down to one or two portions and eyeball the ingredients for the mayo-mustard-maple mixture. The combo is very forgiving: As long as you use about half as much mustard as mayo and half as much maple syrup as mustard you'll be good to go when scaling down (just reverse that formula for scaling up).
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostAll you need to complete the meal is a quick side or two. When I really want to keep the whole dinner prep to 15 minutes, while the fish is in the broiler I cook some couscous on the stovetop in broth (which takes about five minutes) and steam some vegetables such as broccoli or asparagus in the microwave, which takes about three minutes. I dress the veg and couscous with lemon zest and juice and olive oil and/or the extra mayo-mustard mixture and I'm good to go.
Preheat broiler and set oven rack to about 6 inches below broiler element. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, mustard, maple syrup, and smoked paprika, chipotle powder, or cayenne (if using). Season with salt and pepper; feel free to adjust flavor and heat level by adding more paprika, if desired.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostLine a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Lightly season salmon all over with salt and pepper. Set salmon on prepared baking sheet and rub a thin, even layer of the maple-mustard mixture all over the surface and sides.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostBroil salmon until browned on top and the center registers 115 to 125°F (46 to 52°C) for medium-rare to medium, respectively, about 5 minutes; it can help to keep the oven door cracked while salmon is cooking to prevent the broiler from cycling on and off (though not all ovens function this way). If salmon becomes well browned on top before it is cooked enough in the center, switch off the broiler and set the oven to 425°F (220°C), then continue cooking until done (this shouldn't take more than 1 to 2 minutes longer).
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostTransfer salmon to plates or a platter and serve.
Serious Eats / Jordan Provost
Vicky WasikThere's a lot to love about shredded chicken: it's simple to cook (and difficult to overcook), it's an easy way to get dinner on the table, and it's an economical way to make your protein go the extra mile. In these 20 shredded chicken recipes, chicken thighs and breasts serve as the foundation for soups, casseroles, tacos, nachos, and several very flavor-packed salads. Keep reading for our diverse collection of easy-to-cook, easy-on-the-wallet meals that every cook should know.
Gỏi Gà Bắp Cải (Vietnamese Chicken and Cabbage Salad)Serious Eats / Vy TranThis classic Vietnamese salad of tender chicken, crunchy cabbage, sweet carrot, pickled onion, fresh herbs, and crispy toppings is best served with a gingery sauce.
Pancit Bihon (Filipino Rice Noodles)Serious Eats / Rezel KealohaPancit—a noodle dish with vegetables, seafood, and/or meat—is everyday fare in the Philippines, but it's also commonly served at birthdays, holidays, and celebrations since noodles symbolize long life.
Dak Juk (Korean Chicken and Rice Porridge)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWarm, comforting, and deeply satisfying, this Korean rice porridge is perfect for when you're sick—and when you're not.
Nicaraguan Arroz con PolloSerious Eats / Qi AiThis deeply savory version of chicken and rice gets studded with smoked sausage, ham, olives, capers, carrots, and peas.
Curry Chicken SaladSerious Eats / Vicky WasikIf you’re a fan of chicken salad and curry powder spice mixes, this recipe is for you. It’s fragrant, flavorful, and perfectly spiced, and it has just the right amount of mayo to bind all the ingredients together while letting the textures of crisp scallions and chewy raisins shine.
Pesto Chicken Salad With Sun-Dried TomatoesSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis chicken salad gets its vibrant flavor from bright basil pesto. Speckled with chopped sun-dried tomatoes, every bite is pleasantly tangy, and it makes for a great easy lunch or mid-afternoon snack.
Hashweh (Palestinian Spiced Rice and Meat)Serious Eats / Mai KakishSpices bloomed in ghee add complexity to this celebratory Palestinian dish, a stuffing that can be used to stuff a whole animal, or enjoyed on it's own.
Maftool (Palestinian Wheat Pearls in a Vegetable, Chickpea, and Chicken Stew)Serious Eats / Mai KakishThis recipe involves caviar-sized pearls made of whole wheat served in a brothy stew with onions, chickpeas, butternut squash, and tender chicken.
Summer Nachos With Tomatoes, Corn, Chicken, and CheeseSerious Eats / Emily and Matt CliftonEmily and Matt CliftonNachos don't need to be overloaded with heavy ingredients. Here, we make use of the bounty and flavors of summer to create a dish that celebrates all the things we love about warm weather eating. The result is a pile of nachos loaded with sweet corn, juicy tomatoes, pickled radishes, tender chicken, and cheese in two forms.
Buffalo Chicken Grilled Cheese SandwichSerious Eats / Vicky WasikHere, blue cheese, shredded chicken, and Frank's RedHot are straddled by two melted layers of Monterey Jack—all the spicy, meaty, funky, cheesy flavors of a bar food classic, translated into the ultimate comfort food.
Easy One-Pot Chicken Tinga (Mexican Shredded Chicken Stew)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltSmoky and spicy, this is the ultimate one-pot taco filling. Bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts are shredded and combined with tomatillos, plum tomatoes, and chiles in adobo.
Buffalo Chicken Puff Pastry WafflesSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThis recipe involves shredded chicken, Frank's RedHot, and blue cheese, all rolled up into puff pastry and cooked on a waffle iron. If you like Buffalo wings, you are guaranteed to like this variation on our puff-pastry waffles.
Thai-Style Spicy Chicken, Banana Blossom, and Herb SaladSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThis salad hits every note with tender chicken, crunchy banana blossom, rich fried aromatics, and a dressing that's bright with chile and lime.
The Best White Chili With ChickenSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltHere, tender chicken and white beans are bound in a creamy, fresh green chile sauce and topped with shredded cheese.
Bang Bang Ji Si (Hot and Numbing Sichuan Chicken Salad)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltSous vide is the modern way to make this Sichuan classic, without the banging.
Easy Creamy Chicken Enchilada SoupSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThis chicken enchilada soup features a rich and creamy broth, plenty of melted cheese, and the spicy, toasty flavor of chiles. Little nubs of sweet corn and black beans fill each spoonful, along with tender bits of shredded chicken.
Smoky Pulled Barbecue ChickenSerious Eats / Joshua BouselSmoky, juicy, tender, and flavored with a carefully calibrated homemade sauce, this pulled barbecue chicken is way better than just about any version we've ever had before.
Ultimate King Ranch Chicken CasseroleSerious Eats / Yvonne RupertiThis Tex-Mex dish is called King Ranch chicken casserole, which consists of a layered enchilada/lasagna-like blast of seasoned chicken, corn tortillas, shredded cheese, cream of chicken soup, and cream of mushroom soup.
Shredded Chicken Salad With Gochujang DressingSerious Eats / Shao Z.This chicken salad is anything but bland and boring. The chicken is slowly poached in an aromatic mixture of water, sake, and ginger until it's tender and easy to pull apart. To make the salad, the shredded chicken is tossed with watercress, lettuce, cucumber, and onion, then drizzled with a sweet, spicy, and tart gochujang dressing.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreIn our quest to bring you one step closer to perfect diner-style omelets, creamy risotto, and Creole-style red jambalaya, we’ve rounded up our favorite budget cookware picks that deliver year after year. From nonstick skillets to durable stainless steel saucepans, our tried and true recommendations will meet the needs of home cooks everywhere.
The best part? Affordability doesn’t mean sacrificing quality. Each product featured in our guide has undergone rigorous testing to ensure it meets our standards. We’ve evaluated factors including heat distribution, durability, and ease of cleaning so you can buy the very best.
A cast iron skillet is a reliable and durable piece of cookware, and one that we recommend everyone keep in their kitchen. While high-end options abound, our favorite skillets are eminently affordable: Our Lodge pick is priced under $30, and this Victoria cast iron skillet is also great option for a few dollars less.
Key Specs Weight: 5 pounds, 7 ounces * Temperature range: Up to 650°F * Comes pre-seasoned?: Yes * Induction-friendly?: Yes * Dishwasher-safe:* Nope, absolutely not
Serious Eats / Grace KellySauté pans fall somewhere in between a skillet and a Dutch oven; they are perfect for shallow frying meatballs or falafel, braising bone-in chicken pieces, and wilting that entire bag of spinach you have in your fridge. While this one is on the heavier side, it’s large, with a nearly 10-inch cooking surface, and heats up relatively quickly and evenly. In our tests, it browned and braised nearly as well as our more expensive favorites.
Key Specs Weight: 5 pounds, 2 ounces (with the lid) * Material: Stainless steel, aluminum * Overall dimensions: 21 x 11 x 3 inches * Induction-friendly?: Yes * Temperature range: Up to 800°F * Dishwasher-safe:* Yes
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubA great small saucepan should heat uniformly, pour smoothly, and be easy to clean. The most saucier-like one we tested (with a shallower depth and sloped sides) was perfect for stirring and whisking. It also features a rolled rim for dribble-less pours and a handle that stays cool even after boiling water or browning butter.
Key Specs Capacity: 1.6 quarts * Weight: 2 pounds, 4 ounces (with lid) * Material: Stainless steel * Lip-to-lip diameter: 6.75 inches * Induction-friendly?: Yes * Temperature range: Oven-safe up to 500°F * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe, but hand-washing is recommended
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerFor those who want a nice stainless steel cookware set for under $300, this is the one to get. It even includes two of our recommendations for stainless steel skillets and saucepans. The skillet performed particularly well when searing a pork chop to golden brown perfection.
Key Specs Material: Tri-ply clad 18/10 stainless steel with aluminum core * Number of pieces: 10 * Temperature range: Oven-safe up to 500°F * Induction-friendly?: Yes * Dishwasher-safe:* Yes
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThis isn’t the cheapest saucepan we tested, but the Tramontina performed really well for its price, outdoing pots that cost twice as much. Browned butter, perfectly cooked rice, silky pastry cream—this pan does it all, without any sticking or burnt-on bits.
Key Specs Capacity: 3 quarts * Weight: 3 pounds, 4 ounces (with lid) * Diameter: 8 inches * Temperature range: Up to 500° F * Induction-friendly?: Yes * Dishwasher-safe:* Yes
Serious Eats / Irvin LinIf you haven’t considered buying a carbon steel skillet yet, now is the time. A favorite with restaurant chefs, Vollrath carbon steel pans perform just as well (if not better) than others at a fraction of the price. Of the 12 pans we tested, this was the lightest, and it heated up fast and was easy to lift, flip, and sauté with.
Key Specs Weight: 2 pounds, 6 ounces * Diameter: 7.6 inches * Temperature range: Up to 600°F * Induction-friendly?: Yes * Dishwasher-safe: No*
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayThink of enameled cast iron skillets as a cousin of uncoated cast iron; they’re both great for different reasons. Here, the enamel coating doesn’t require seasoning, provides rust protection, and is easy to clean. Renowned for its slow cooker, Crock-Pot shouldn’t be overlooked for its cookware. Lightweight and easy to maneuver, this skillet is a great value, combining affordability with performance.
Key Specs Weight: 6 pounds, 5 ounces * Diameter: 10 inches * Temperature range: Up to 500°F * Induction-friendly?: Yes * Dishwasher-safe: No*
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayThe Great Jones “Saucy” is more than just a pretty pot. If there’s pastry cream or risotto in your future, you probably need a saucier, and this one is a nicely priced option. From a purely aesthetic standpoint, Great Jones emerged as the belle of the ball in our testing, with performance to match—impressing us with its heat conduction and ease of stirring and cleaning. It's also the most competitively priced of the sauciers we tested, and a perfect fit for those who prioritize both form and function.
Key Specs Capacity: 3 quarts * Weight: 3 pounds, 0.5 ounce * Diameter: 8.5 inches * Temperature range: Up to 500°F * Induction-friendly?: Yes * Dishwasher-safe:* Yes
Serious Eats / Tim ChinWe don’t use nonstick skillets all that often, but if you’re going to have one, it should work well without breaking the bank. This Tramontina is well-priced, features a padded handle for comfort and stability, and delivers impressive results.
Key Specs Weight: 1 pound, 5 ounces * Temperature range: Up to 400°F * Induction-friendly?: No * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe; hand-washing recommended
Serious Eats / Donna CurrieLove grilled veggies but don’t have the setup or time for an outdoor grill? It’s time to try a grill pan, and the Victoria is a top-performing pan at a great value. Among the 10 grill pans we tested, this one stood out for its lightweight build and seamless cooking process. Thanks to an efficient design, food glides easily off the grates, while still achieving nice, deep char marks.
Key Specs Weight: 5 pounds * Material: Cast iron * Number of grates: 12 * Temperature range: Up to 650° F * Induction-friendly?: Yes * Dishwasher-safe:* No
Serious Eats / Will DickeySporting generously sized looped handles and a cooking surface comparable to the Le Creuset (though on the smaller size for a 5-quart braiser), this is a great, low-cost option that comes in a handful of fun colors. While its durability isn’t on par with Le Creuset or Staub, its affordability makes it a great pick—it’s $235 less than the Le Creuset and $305 less than the Staub.
Key Specs Weight: 14 pounds, 12.5 ounces * Dimensions: 15 x 12 x 5 inches * Capacity: 5 quarts * Temperature range: Up to 500° F * Induction-friendly?: Yes * Care instructions*: Hand-wash recommended
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayWe recently tested 22 stockpots, and this dependable pot was one of our favorites. Efficient and well designed, the pot includes handles that are covered in a grippy rubber to protect your hands from the hot metal, just in case you are the sort of person who might reach for them without an oven mitt on.
Key Specs Dimensions: 10 x 12.5 x 8.5 inches * Capacity: 12 quarts * Materials: Stainless steel, tempered glass * Induction-friendly?: Yes * Dishwasher-safe:* Yes
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThis stainless steel skillet tested well across the board, effortlessly searing chicken breasts, sautéing vegetables, and deglazing with ease. The price seems to fluctuate a bit, but it’s usually under $50, making it a great choice for home cooks of all levels.
Key Specs Oven-safe temperature: Up to 500°F * Induction-friendly?: Yes * Dishwasher-safe:* Yes
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikPriced at a fraction of the cost of the premium French brands, the Cuisinart Chef’s Classic is an excellent value, emerging as a standout performer among the 20 Dutch ovens we tested. Despite its modest capacity, the base of the pot is surprisingly roomy.
Key Specs Dimensions: 11.5 x 6.2 inches * Capacity: 5 quarts * Weight: 3 pounds, 4.1 ounces * Induction-friendly?: Yes * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe; hand-washing recommended
Serious Eats / Emily DrydenAfter a quick pre-seasoning, this wok proved itself to be a true kitchen workhorse. Compared to the other woks we tested, its nonstick properties are unparalleled—the only pan from our testing that produced unbroken, unstuck fried eggs. With its generous capacity, it quickly became our go-to pan for tossing bok choy and garlic fried rice, while also boiling water in under nine minutes—securing the second-fastest time of the 11 woks we tested. A thoughtfully designed wooden handle and a helper handle means no singed fingers, and peace of mind with every sauté and stir.
Key Specs Diameter: 13.5 inches * Weight: 3 pounds, 4.1 ounces * Comes pre-seasoned?: No * Induction-friendly?: Yes * Dishwasher-safe:* No
Serious Eats / Grace KellyFAQsWhat’s the best cookware for the money? We’re partial to cookware that does it all, and for us, that’s cast iron—few options rival the versatility and enduring appeal of a cast iron skillet. The more you use it, the better it gets, and Lodge’s affordable basic cast iron skillet has been one of our most recommended pieces of kitchenware for years and years.
Why don’t nonstick pans last? Nonstick pans have their limitations. Yes, they can be convenient, but the reality is that their surfaces are not built to last forever; they will chip, scratch, and show other signs of wear and tear. This is exactly why we suggest buying cheaper nonstick cookware (and why our top pick is under $50). If you’re using a nonstick pan often, you can expect to replace it every couple of years. You’ll know it’s time to say goodbye to the pan when it loses its nonstick qualities, the finish begins to flake off, or it becomes deeply scratched.
Why We’re the Experts* Caroline Schnapp is a freelance writer who’s written for Serious Eats since 2024. * We’ve tested and published numerous reviews on pots and pans (including Dutch ovens, skillets and sauté pans). * For this story, we referenced our extensive library of cookware reviews, choosing pots and pans that outperformed the competition, on a budget.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostThe Serious Eats reader, in my experience, is a lot of things. She’s passionate! She’s nuanced! She’s intense about the fact that peanut butter should always be crunchy! (I learned this about her after publishing a creamy peanut butter taste test recently.) I respect that, but I’m also a little scared of her. I'm also a little scared of all the Serious Eats readers who passionately disagree with her and, with the publication of this chunky peanut butter taste test, now have a whole new reason to send angry emails.
In all seriousness, crunchy peanut butter isdivisive, as are most staples that people voluntarily carry from childhood pantries into adult ones. Feelings run strong, but we're professionals here at Serious Eats and are able to check our own in the name of taste-test objectivity.
So, the SE team has pulled together eightbrands of crunchy peanut butters you're likely to find in your local supermarket, and methodically, empirically, scientifically! tasted its way through them all in a quest to identify the very best. And we loved every minute of it!
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostThe Contenders* JIF Peanut Butter, Extra Crunchy * Nature’s Promise Peanut Butter Crunchy Organic * Once Again Crunchy Peanut Butter * Skippy Super Chunk Peanut Butter * Smucker’s Natural Peanut Butter * Teddie All Natural Peanut Butter, Super Chunky * Urban Meadow Crunchy Peanut Butter * WOODSTOCK Organic Crunchy Peanut Butter
The CriteriaA good crunchy peanut butter boasts minimal oiliness (after mixing in any oil that separated during storage) and significant savoriness. Our top contenders skewed much saltier than they did sweet; they also had chunks that, despite varying sizes, were often described as “crispy.” Contrastingly, our less-loved jars had mushier or even “raw”-tasting nuts.
The jars we procured were all over the map texture-wise. About half could be described as thin and slippery, almost like eating a broken vinaigrette. The other half was like studded nut-butter velvet (thick! consistent!), not a hint of oil slick to be found. The Serious Eats team was less bothered by the distinct presence of artificiality in this test than they were in the creamy peanut butter version. In fact, a little stabilization and emulsification went a long, pleasant way—a sign that when PB goes crunchy, our tastes go junky?
Relatedly, those same winning jars hit our testers with a nice lil' dose of nostalgia. If a chunky peanut butter is doing its job, per our findings, you should be able to open it and know you’re in for a good time just by smelling the stuff. Like, just the action of smelling it should hit like listening to Coolio (or TLC, or Gloria Estefan, or…whatever was playing in your house after school).
As with the creamy PB taste test, we avoided “spreads” (it's a different product with fewer nuts and more stabilizers, so please, please stop emailing me to ask why Justin’s has not made an appearance in these tests—we will do another test specifically for spreads!) Either way, I stirred each peanut butter for 20 seconds a pop before plopping each sample into a bowl and serving it to the team with no accompaniments.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostThe RankingsUrban Meadow Crunchy Peanut Butter, 3.8/5You (famously, I think) shouldn’t judge a book by its cover, but there's nothing wrong with judging a peanut butter by what you’re greeted with when you pull off the lid. Per my pre-testing notes, this Key Foods brand (!) was “gorgeous! There’s no separation and there are even chunks riddled throughout.” From there, the comments were fascinating, ranging from: “This reminds me of soy sauce? Like a charred barbecue flavor? Would this be good for peanut sauce?” to “Very tasty! I would definitely eat this again happily.” The chunks were small, but they were consistently small, and they ate crisp-ily in each bite. Everyone was happy with this PB's versatility, or, at the very least, not mad about having to eat a lot of this stuff. And in this house, we stan a begrudging near-consensus.
JIF Peanut Butter, Extra Crunchy, 3.7/5HEheheheheheeeee! Megan: “This has got to be Skippy or Jif or some such.” Kelli: “Creamy and nostalgic, this has to be a common brand like Jif. This is clearly a super contrived texture, meant to make me happy, and it does.” Then, ok, fine, Daniel: “This is not my preferred style of PB, but as far as processed ones go, this one is pleasant.” Genevieve: “This is very thick with visible chunks of peanut. Slightly sticky/gummy. Good crunch when eating.” Me, in those same keeper-of-the-key pre-test notes: “Completely unnatural matte asteroid of joy.”
Teddie All Natural Peanut Butter, Super Chunky, 3.7/5I was eager to see where this guy would land, given Teddie’s middling ranking in the creamy peanut butter taste test (despite being loved by the team in their personal lives). It fared much better here. Firstly, this stuff was pretty. It’s the color of Three Musketeers filling—a viscerally good and important color. Secondly, it was correctly salty and savory with very consistent chunking. “Totally enjoyable. Very nicely chunked,” Daniel wrote. Genevieve pointed to hints of wasabi (!?) while Kelli noted how “real” it tasted. A happy—but not nostalgic!—confluence of peanut butter things.
Skippy Super Chunk Peanut Butter, 3/5You’ll notice the drop of .7 points here. That may seem surprising given that this option checked the oh-god-I-miss-the-’90s box and was also pleasantly roasty and chunky, but, my friends, these things matter less if it feels like you’re masticating through sweet glue. This is a perfect option for a snacky, dehydrated human: One bite and you're guaranteed a touch of sweet and a pop of salt followed by half your daily recommended H2O intake just to try to wash it down!
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostWOODSTOCK Organic Crunchy Peanut Butter, 2.85/5In happy news, this oily offering stirred back together very easily. No part of it tasted artificial; in fact, it toed the line between naturally smooth and artificially smooth very nicely. Megan described the experience of eating this peanut butter as “surprising,” as she didn’t love the appearance, but was taken aback by the level of “nice toasted-ness.” Daniel appreciated the sweetness, noting it wasn’t overly so. The less-happy news was that that initial oiliness made an appearance in just about every subsequent bite, and that the sample re-puddled quite quickly.
Smucker’s Natural Peanut Butter, 2.49/5A nice peanut butter that tasted as though it’d been sitting on a shelf for more than a minute. Though we’ll never know if it once tasted fresh and became “stale and dusty” or if it simply was that way upon bottling, the stale peanut taste was undeniable for each and every tester. That said, most remarked on the overall flavor being a good combination of salt vs. sweet.
Once Again Crunchy Peanut Butter, 2.15/5The award for Singular Comment That Made Me LOL This Time goes to: “This needs salt and something else–maybe peanuts??” by Megan O. Steintrager. (Daniel echoed this sentiment, writing “I think the peanut flavor might be fine, if only salt was there to lift it up.”) I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that a few people felt the wistfulness that comes along with a good crunchy peanut butter, but I’d also be remiss if I didn’t mention they mentioned it in a “Play-Doh” and “gummy lipstick” capacity.
Nature’s Promise Peanut Butter Crunchy Organic, 1.8/5Uh oh!
Our Tasting MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted completely hidden and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample 1 first, while taster B will taste sample 6 first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria that vary from sample to sample. All data is tabulated, results are calculated, and rankings are made to reveal the most impartial results possible. Then we write a bunch of silly interpretive nonsense about it that may or may not explain what anyone was thinking.
Serious Eats/Jen CauseyThere's nothing simpler than a fresh blueberry cobbler: Just a pinch of starch and sugar to bind and sweeten the best summer fruit—or frozen works just as well year round—all bubbly and thick beneath a golden cobbler crust, finished with maybe a dollop of whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, if you're lucky. It's one of the easiest desserts around and a great way to showcase fresh summer fruit, but there can be pitfalls along the way to watch out for. Too often, blueberry cobbler recipes have a filling that is too sweet, overspiced, or unappealingly thick, and a topping that is dried out and lacks flavor.
Lucky for us, our test kitchen colleague and seasoned recipe developer Anna Theoktisto resolved these issues with her blueberry cornbread cobbler recipe here. Through rounds of testing, she produced the perfect not-too-thin, not-too-thick filling, where the blueberry flavor is front and center. And instead of the basic all-purpose flour biscuit topping (the popular go-to for most cobbler recipes), she developed a sweet cornbread topping that pairs perfectly with the tart and floral blueberry filling. Read on for tips on making the best berry cobbler and for Theoktisto's full recipe.
Serious Eats/Jen Causey4 Tips for an Easy Blueberry Cornbread Cobbler1. Highlight the blueberry flavor with just a hint of cinnamon and lemon. As noted above, we wanted the blueberry flavor to be front and center in this cobbler, but we also wanted it to be well rounded. To ensure this, just a modest 1/4 teaspoon of cinnamon is added to highlight the blueberry’s delicate floral flavor, while the combination of lemon zest and lemon juice brightens the filling and makes the fresh blueberry flavor pop.
2. Thicken the filling with cornstarch, but not too much. Take a look at most fruit cobbler filling recipes, and you’ll see that they typically use some type of thickener, whether its all-purpose flour, cornstarch, potato starch, or tapioca starch. This is because most fruits used in cobblers (here blueberries, but also true for other berries, stone fruit, and even apples) hold water that’s released during the cooking process. Without a thickener, you’d end up with cooked blueberry soup, and not the jammy viscous filling a good cobbler should have. But the amount of thickener and type added is what guarantees the filling is perfectly set, and not soupy or gloppy.
Cornstarch tossed with the blueberries before baking was not only an easy way to incorporate a thickener, but when baked until bubbly, the cornstarch activates and is a foolproof way to thicken the blueberry filling. Just follow the recipe, and limit the amount of cornstarch to two tablespoons for a perfectly jammy filling. When the filling was tested with more, it turned into a thick sludge.
3. Skip the traditional biscuit dough, and top your cobbler with cornbread. Depending on where you live or grew up, “cobbler” can be used to describe a variety of baked fruit desserts. It's a pretty big category of dishes, and, if you're interested, you should read Serious Eats’ guide to baked fruit desserts that gives an overview of the history of the cobbler, its many regional variations, and the common dough toppings used. For most of us here in the United States, "cobbler" refers to a casserole of baked, syrupy fruit with a pastry or dough topping of some sort.
There are two main types of cobblers that are most common: the first has a fruit layer on the bottom and a topping made of sweetened biscuits; the other has a cake-like batter that starts out below the fruit, but rises to the top as it bakes. In this recipe, Theoktisto combines these two styles and makes a cornbread that has a tender and moist cake-like texture, a sweet, lemony flavor, and a pleasantly gritty texture from the cornmeal to counter the jammy filling. Instead of layering the cornbread cake below the fruit, she dollops it over the blueberry layer similar to how you would top a cobbler with a biscuit dough. Spooning the batter over the fruit filling, without smoothing the top, adds a nice texture and visual appeal to the top of the cobbler.
Serious Eats/Jen Causey4. Save some of the blueberries for topping the cobbler. Theoktisto found that while the cornbread topping was the perfect texture and flavor pairing for the filling, it also completely covered the jewel-toned blueberry filling. The cobbler looked a bit boring, and didn’t showcase its incredible fresh flavors. She solved this problem by setting aside a half cup of the fresh blueberries and using them as a topping for the cobbler. After the cobbler is partially baked for 10 minutes, stud the reserved fresh blueberries into the just-set cornbread topping before returning it to the oven to finish baking. The result is a blueberry cobbler that is just as gorgeous as it is delicious. We recommend serving it warm with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream or a dollop of lightly sweetened whipped cream.
Serious Eats/Jen CauseyFor the filling: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F (175ºC). In a large bowl, whisk sugar, cornstarch, lemon zest, cinnamon, and salt, to combine. Add 6 cups of the blueberries and the lemon juice and toss to combine; set aside.
Serious Eats/Jen CauseyFor the topping: In a large bowl, whisk together flour, 2/3 cup sugar, cornmeal, salt, baking powder, baking soda, and lemon zest in a large bowl. In a small bowl, whisk 8 tablespoons melted butter, sour cream, and egg until smooth. Create a well in the dry ingredients. Gradually add sour cream mixture to the flour mixture, stirring until just combined.
Serious Eats/Jen CauseyBrush the remaining 1 tablespoon butter over the bottom and sides of a 10-inch cast iron skillet or 9- by 13- inch glass baking dish, to coat. Add the blueberry mixture to the skillet. Using a large spoon, dollop the cornbread topping over blueberries. Sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon sugar.
Serious Eats/Jen CauseyBake until the cornbread batter spreads into an even layer and is just beginning to set, about 10 minutes. Using oven mitts, carefully remove the skillet from the oven and top the cornbread with the remaining 1/2 cup blueberries, gently pressing the blueberries into the topping. Return to the oven and continue to bake until the blueberry filling is bubbling, the cornbread topping is golden-brown, and a knife inserted into the center of the cornbread layer comes out clean, 40 to 50 minutes. If needed, cover with foil to prevent excess browning towards the end of baking.
Serious Eats/Jen CauseyLet cool at room temperature for 15 minutes before serving. Serve with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.
Serious Eats/Jen CauseySpecial Equipment10-inch cast iron skillet or 9- by 13-inch glass baking dish
Make-Ahead and StorageStore covered at room temperature for up to 3 days. To reheat leftovers, put the cobbler in a 350-degree oven until heated through, 10 to 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinThere are loads of recipes that use an 8- by 8-inch baking pan, like our brownies, blondies, and lemon bars. But did you know recipes developed for a 9- by 13-inch pan can also be halved and baked in this smaller dish with minimal tweaking? And if you’re like my husband, who’s a big fan of crispy, caramelized corners, baking a 9- by 13-inch recipe in two 8- by 8-inch pans means double the edges (and joy).
To find the best square baking pans, I tested 12 of them—making blondies and cake and evaluating their durability. Surprise, surprise: Not all of them baked properly and others weren’t actually eight-inch squares, leading to inaccurate cook times.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Nordic Ware 8- by 8-inch pan is made of heavy gauge aluminum and was durable, with a rolled edge that was easy to hold and move in and out of the oven. Cakes baked evenly, with light brown edges and the pan’s smooth, rounded corners that were easy to clean.
Sharper corners make for aesthetically pleasing baked goods. If that’s important to you, this is the pan to get. Made from heavy gauge aluminized steel that baked evenly and consistently, the Williams Sonoma pan’s cakes and blondies had crisp 90-degree corners. Every square and slice was picture-perfect.
If you prefer a nonstick pan, I found the USA pan to be the best option. Unlike other nonstick models I tested, which had darker coatings that led to overbrowning, the USA pan is light in color. This yielded consistent, even results similar to that of uncoated pans.
Typically, I don’t recommend glass and ceramic baking pans, as the material heats differently than metal, which is what most baking recipes are developed for. But the tinted glass of the Pyrex compensated for this, and I was pleasantly surprised to find that cakes and blondies baked up nearly as well as in my favorite metal pans.
The TestsSerious Eats / Irvin Lin Yellow Cake Test: I baked half a box of yellow cake mix in each pan (lightly greasing them first with a three-second burst of cooking spray) to see how evenly the cake rose and baked. * Durability Test: I took a butter knife and scratched each pan 10 to 12 times, as if I were cutting squares of brownies, to see how durable it was. * Blondies Test (Winners Only): I adapted this brown butter blondies recipe, adding in chocolate and butterscotch chips, to see how a dense dough would bake in the winning pans. After baking, I cut the blondies with a butter knife directly in the pan, looking for further scratching. * Cleanup and Usability Tests:* After every test, I washed each pan by hand. Throughout testing, I evaluated how easy the pans were to hold, move, and unmold baked goods from.
What We LearnedMetal Baking Pans Were Generally BetterThe darker pans (like the one on the right) yielded cakes with too-brown edges and uneven bakes.Serious Eats / Irvin LinAs a recipe developer and cookbook author, I have always recommended light-colored metal for baking pans, especially ones that are used for cakes, brownies, blondies, and bread. This is because darker pans heat up faster, leading to overbrowning on the sides and bottoms. Also, most professionally developed recipes are designed using uncoated, light-colored metal pans, with the baking times and results optimized for this material.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinOf the metal pans, the ones made from heavy gauge metal—like my favorites by Nordic Ware, Williams Sonoma, and USA Pan—baked the most evenly. Cakes rose only slightly in the middle and blondies were golden brown from edge to center. Pans like the Wilton Performance and the Fat Daddio were made of thinner metal that baked quicker, resulting in overdone, dark edges and bottoms.
Opt for a Lighter Colored Pan (Unless It’s Glass)Serious Eats / Irvin LinOne of the many issues with nonstick-coated pans is the color of the coating. The darker color of nonstick coating can absorb heat faster, yielding uneven bakes. This was evident in the Good Cook, Wilton Perfect, and All-Clad baking pans. Their cakes were overly brown and had low sides (as those set quickly) and dramatically risen centers (as the rest of the cake caught up in temperature).
However, when it came to glass, a darker color was actually welcome. Unlike the clear Anchor Hocking pan, the Pyrex was a smoky gray, which absorbed heat faster. Glass is a refractory material, which heats up slower than metal but retains heat longer, even when removed from the oven. This is why the Anchor Hocking pan underbaked cake, but the Pyrex performed almost as well as the metal offerings.
Ceramic Baking Pans Struggled With Standardized Sizing The two ceramic baking pans we tested were vastly different sizes.Serious Eats / Irvin LinMost of the metal pans I tested were close to eight inches in size. But, inexplicably, the two ceramic pans I tested were off, with the Great Jones measuring 7.5 inches and the Made In pan 10.5 inches.
The too-large baking dish (second from right) resulted in a too-thin cake.Serious Eats / Irvin LinSmaller and larger pans resulted in thicker and thinner baked goods and ran the risk of overbaking or underbaking without recipe time adjustments.
Corners Were Nice, But Harder to CleanI personally love the polished look of baked goods with sharp corners. However, pans with squared-off corners (like the ones from Williams Sonoma and USA Pan) are harder to clean. The small gaps in their corners trap bits of food, and you’ll occasionally need to grab a toothpick or wooden skewer to dig crumbs out. If you’re looking to avoid this, there are pans made from one molded piece of metal and with rounded corners, like my favorite from Nordic Ware.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Baking PanSerious Eats / Irvin LinIf opting for a metal baking pan, choose one that’s made from a heavy gauge material and light in color, which will help distribute heat evenly. For glass, opt for a baking pan that’s darker-hued, which will help compensate for the material taking longer to heat up. Finally, if you prioritize ease of cleaning, pick a pan without sharp edges. But if you prefer the aesthetic of sharper, 90-degree corners—great! Just know they’ll require more attentive cleanup.
Our Favorite 8- by 8-Inch Baking PansWhat we liked: Nordic Ware’s baking pan is molded from one piece of aluminum, with a rolled edge that has a stainless-steel rod inside of it, adding stability and preventing warping. While a small pan may not warp like a larger half-sheet pan, the rolled edge is also easier to grab and move in and out of the oven.
The pan’s heavy gauge metal evenly distributed heat. Cake rose gently from the edges to the center, with even browning across the top. Blondies baked up golden brown, without any overcooked or underbaked areas. I found a bit of cooking spray was enough to prevent baked goods from sticking and the pan’s sloped, crevice-free corners made for easy cleanup.
What we didn’t like: The aluminum pan did scratch during my durability test. That said, the scratches didn’t impact performance, as the pan isn’t nonstick.
Key Specs Material: Aluminum * Dimensions: 8 x 8 x 2.2 inches * Care instructions: Hand-wash; not dishwasher-safe * Handle size: None * Maximum oven temperature:* 500°F
Serious Eats / Irvin LinWhat we liked: The Williams Sonoma pan was heavy-duty, evenly distributed heat, and had sharp corners, making every cake slice and blondie square look picture-perfect. The pan’s rolled rim, like the Nordic Ware’s, was easy to grab. In my tests, cakes baked up even and blondies were golden brown.
What we didn’t like: The sharp corners of the pan trapped crumbs. Like the Nordic Ware, it also showed some minor scratches, but they did not impact performance.
Key Specs Material: Aluminized steel * Dimensions: 8 x 8 x 2.25 inches * Care instructions: Hand-wash; not dishwasher-safe * Handle size: None * Maximum oven temperature:* 450°F
Serious Eats / Irvin LinWhat we liked: If you prefer a nonstick pan, the USA Pan was the best one I tested. Its proprietary nonstick, silicone coating is called Americoat and is clear. This means the pan performs like one that’s uncoated, without the hot spots or uneven baking that occurred with dark-colored nonstick models. It also featured rolled edges that were nice to grip and baked cake and blondies beautifully.
What we didn’t like: Like the Williams Sonoma pan, the USA Pan’s sharp corners create beautiful baked goods but are more challenging to clean.
Key Specs Material: Aluminized steel with silicone nonstick coating * Dimensions: 8 x 8 x 2.25 inches * Care instructions: Hand-wash; not dishwasher-safe * Handle size: None * Maximum oven temperature:* 450°F
Serious Eats / Irvin LinWhat we liked: I typically don’t recommend glass baking dishes. However, this tinted Pyrex performed surprisingly well. The gray glass heated faster and held onto heat, so cakes baked up fairly evenly—more so than the dark-colored nonstick options I tested. While the Pyrex’s blondies weren’t quite as good as my favorite metal pans (with the edges more brown than the center), they were still acceptable, especially for folks who prefer crispy edges and corners.
What we didn’t like: Glass is more fragile than metal, takes longer to heat up, and retains heat readily. This leads to more uneven baking.
Key Specs Material: Tempered glass * Dimensions: 8.25 x 8.25 x 2.25 inches * Care instructions: Dishwasher-safe * Handle size: 0.75 x 5 inches * Maximum oven temperature:* 425°F
Serious Eats / Irvin LinThe Competition* All-Clad Pro-Release Nonstick Square Baking Pan: Though this pan was made of heavy gauge metal, the nonstick coating was darker and resulted in uneven baking. The cake’s edges were overly dark and there was a significant bump in the middle. * Wilton Perfect Results Premium Non-Stick Bakeware Square Cake Pan: This thin metal pan had a dark nonstick coating that yielded uneven baking. * Anchor Hocking Square Glass Cake Pan: Made of clear glass, this pan took a long time to heat up and retained heat after coming out of the oven, resulting in overbaked edges and an underbaked center. * Fat Daddio Anodized Aluminum Square Cake Pan: This pan’s cake and blondies had darker bottoms and edges. It also scratched easily. * Good Cooks 8-inch Square Baking Pan: This reasonably priced pan was made of thin material and had a dark nonstick coating that baked unevenly. * Wilton Performance Aluminum Square Cake and Brownie Pan: This was another popular and reasonably priced pan that was constructed of thin metal. The cake I made was dark and overbaked at the edges. * Great Jones Little Hottie: I wanted to love this cute ceramic baking pan, but it was listed as eight inches and was half an inch smaller, resulting in an inconsistent cake that rose in the middle and had low sides. * Made In Square Baking Dish: Another ceramic baking pan that was listed as eight inches but was actually 10.5 inches. Baked goods came out flat and overbaked.
FAQsHow do you clean baking pans?Most baking pans should be washed by hand with a soft sponge and dish detergent. Some pans can be cleaned in the dishwasher, such as ones made from glass. You should always check the manufacturer’s instructions to see if your pan is dishwasher-safe.
Are silicone baking pans safe?Though no silicone baking pans were tested for this article, they are approved by the FDA and considered food-safe. Typically, silicone baking pans are rated up to 425°F. However, keep in mind that though silicone pans are convenient due to their flexible nature, allowing for easy release of baked goods, the material doesn’t get hot and won’t brown as well.
What baking pans do professionals use?Most baking professionals use a commercial-grade heavy gauge metal pan that is durable and uncoated. This allows them to use the pan over and over again, without having to worry about the coating scratching or flaking off. Thicker, heavy gauge metal pans not only bake better by distributing heat evenly but are more durable and can withstand the constant use of a commercial environment.
Why We’re the Experts Irvin Lin is a cookbook author, recipe developer, food writer, photographer, and ceramicist. He wrote the cookbook Marbled, Swirled, and Layered, which was picked by the New York Times* as one of the best baking cookbooks of 2016. Irvin also runs a blog called Eat the Love, where he’s developed, photographed, and written recipes since 2010. * He’s product tested and reviewed hundreds of kitchen items including stand mixers and digital thermometers. * For this review, Irvin tested 12 8- by 8-inch baking pans. He made box cake mix, scratched them with a knife to emulate wear over time, and baked blondies to see how they fared with a dense dough.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikI attended my first queer potluck the summer after I graduated from college. I was living in a new city, fresh from breaking up with my first girlfriend, and knocking on a stranger’s front door.
In my hands, I clutched my token of entry: a twisted loaf of chocolate babka. My grip softened as I was welcomed inside like an old friend. I wove my way through clumps of individuals who, like me, bore their queerness in the way they dressed, the way they cared for one another, and tonight, the way they ate. I released my offering onto the overflowing table, right between the green chile mac and cheese and a mason jar of pickled nopales.
I was raised by dinner party people, and my parents fully equipped me with the skills of a solo dinner host. My queer ancestors, however, left me their collaborative culinary art of potlucking. Though this was my first queer potluck, this very meal unfurled from a deep-rooted history of potlucks in spaces that don’t just contain queerness, but hold onto it.
Potlucks are meals that center community and celebrate variety. They can be spaces for showing up as our authentic selves—especially because of the opportunity to choose and prepare a food to bring. My babka was delicious, but it also allowed me to enter the potluck already feeling a bit like myself. Given that these values overlap so tenderly with those held by queer experiences, it seems hardly coincidental that potlucking has been a commonplace practice for past and present generations of queer communities.
Much potluck talk in the queer discourse refers to potlucks held by and for lesbians—also known as Lesbian Potlucks. Indeed, The Daughters of Bilitis, the first known lesbian civil rights and political organization in the United States, is credited with that first foray into queering the potluck. While queer people often felt rejected from the church communities or family reunions where potlucks or "covered-dish suppers" really got their start in America, this meal of the commons was swiftly adopted as a covert and nourishing get-together by lesbian communities across the country.
A queer potluck hosted by the authorNina KatzAnd yet, potlucks have existed at many intersections of queerness. Records of potlucks spanning the LGBTQIA+ alphabet are well documented in queer newsletters and fliers archived from pre-internet days. From the West Coast’s Seattle Gay News to the East’s Gay Community News out of Boston, announcements of potlucks were a constant bell ringing in the community calendars and classified sections. A flier for a 1994 Pride month get-together invited guests to bring a dish and come hear revolutionary activist Leslie Feinberg speak on trans liberation. Even ACT UP (AIDS Coalition to Unleash Power), a leading force in AIDS research, prevention, and organizing had its humble beginnings in a series of potlucks hosted for grieving community members.
Years after attending my first queer potluck, I began hosting my own. While I still relish curating a formal, coursed out dinner party with matching flatware and even some table manners, taking luck in the pot has allowed me to better imbue the values I seek and hold as a queer person into the meals I share with others.
For hosting a potluck for your own queer community, here are some potluck-friendly tips and recipes to get you started.
10 Recipes That Are Perfect for a Queer PotluckLimeadeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikAny buffet-style meal can fill a plate to its breaking point, so it’s best to have a beverage to wash everything down. Bringing something non-alcoholic like this zingy limeade can make a queer potluck even more inclusive for folks who would rather not drink alcohol, as well.
Jamaican SorrelSerious Eats / Vicky WasikSourcing dried sorrel (hibiscus) flowers is easy if you live anywhere near a Latin or Caribbean grocer. When I lived in New Mexico, agua de jamaica was the perfect cold companion on a hot summer day, as well as a warming punch for the winter holidays. Bringing this versatile drink to a potluck is an ode to the queer celebration of variety and adaptability.
No-Knead FocacciaSerious Eats / Vicky WasikFocaccia is always the first to go at my potlucks and makes a great canvas for the miscellaneous juices and schmears that go rogue on a loaded plate. Pro tip: Pre-slice before arriving!
SpanakopitaSerious Eats / Vicky WasikMy identity as a queer person is layered like this gorgeous phyllo pie. No need to take up oven real estate to warm up Sohla’s Spanakopita when you arrive at your potluck destination; she (and I) recommend grabbing a slice when it’s at room temperature or even cold from the fridge.
Warm Farro Salad With Asparagus and PeasSerious Eats / Yasmin FahrGrain salads are the casseroles of today’s potlucks. If you are going to bring one, let it be this bright, tangy, and delicious farro dish. Vegetarians and omnivores alike will thank you.
BLT SandwichesSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezLooking for someone to hold? Whether you are cruising your next queer potluck for love or find that all utensils are in use, this BLT is for you. If you are planning on bringing this sandwich, or any sandwich to a potluck, consider laying out the ready-to-assemble ingredients on a tray, buffet style, so that folks can engage with the fillings at their own rate.
Cold SobaSerious Eats / Diana ChistrugaCold pasta adds a refreshing bounce to any potluck. One of my exes loved making cold soba noodles. I embrace the high chance of reuniting with an ex-lover (or two) at a queer potluck by bringing a dish that reminds me of them. To some attendees, this dish is a nutty and umami delight. For me, it is also a peace offering.
Chicken YassaSerious Eats / Jillian AtkinsonChicken yassa decks out the ever-affordable chicken drumstick in sweet, jammy onion, tangy citrus, and smoky pepper. With everything made in one pot, this is a stovetop-to-table recipe at its best. Break out that Dutch oven; every queer potluck needs a heavy bottom.
Jammy Fruit BarsSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThe farmers market where I live is a queer watering hole. Saturday mornings at the market are a great place to converge with friends, see who is dating who, and invite folks over for a potluck. I like supporting the rising wave of queer farmers by shopping their stands for seasonal fruit. Fill these bars with anything from apricots to strawberries or concord grapes—these desserts put the “fruit” in “fruity.”
Tres Leches CakeSerious Eats / Maria del Mar CuadraThough this year marks my 10th anniversary of “coming out,” throughout the last decade, I have continued the slow churn of becoming the queer person I am today.
Letting things unfold at their own pace is also true for this dessert; in tres leches, which means “three milks” in Spanish, whole milk, sweetened condensed milk, and evaporated milk, take their time transforming average vanilla sponge cake into something luscious and sumptuous. Fellow guests will devour this sweet treat and perhaps be reminded to trust the process, and enjoy a few queer potlucks along the way.
Serious Eats / Tim ChinAs much as I love bread—baking and eating it—rice is in my soul. I'm not ashamed to say I have no problems plowing through a 25-pound bag by myself. Needless to say, there is almost always leftover cooked rice in my fridge. Often I'll just freshen it up with a quick steam for a salmon rice bowl or bibimbap. Other times, I'll whip up fried rice with whatever I want to use up—roast duck, barbecue pork, or bits and bobs from the produce bin.
Making good flavorful fried rice is as much about technique as it is about ingredients. Leftover rice is ideal, but so long as your rice is sufficiently chilled, the freshly cooked variety works just as well. There are also ways to compensate for the lack of high B.T.U.s in home kitchens—such as using a kitchen torch to achieve the smoky aroma and flavor of classic wok hei and cooking the rice in smaller batches to prevent clumping. Whether you're craving restaurant-style shrimp fried rice, omelette-topped Japanese omurice, or flavor-packed nasi goreng we have recipes to turn cooked rice, leftover or fresh, into crave-worthy comfort food you'll make morning, noon, or night.
Easy Fried RiceSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergWhether you're using leftover or freshly cooked rice, this foolproof recipe yields vegetable-studded fried rice with individual grains that barely hold together when picked up with chopsticks or a spoon—it's so good you won't want to put either down.
Perfect Egg Fried RiceSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezSometimes all you have are eggs and leftover rice, and maybe a scallion or two in your fridge. Kenji shows you three ways to make the most out of these simple ingredients, so whether you're cooking on a gas stove, electric range, or outdoor burner, you can make perfect egg fried rice every time.
Shrimp Fried RiceSerious Eats / Tim ChinThe key to making great shrimp fried rice at home is all about doing more with less. This means leaving out the soy sauce, sesame oil, and oyster sauce in favor of a little chicken broth powder. Here, we use a kitchen blowtorch to recreate the smoky aroma of classic wok hei.
Fried Rice With Chinese Sausage, Cabbage, and Torch HeiSerious Eats / Vicky WasikChinese sausage is one of those staples I almost always keep in my fridge, along with a bag of frozen peas, so this is the perfect fried rice to make—especially when I'm out of eggs. Cabbage adds a nice crunch but if you don't have it on hand you can substitute with whatever hearty greens you happen to have. We apply the same "torch hei" technique used in the shrimp fried rice recipe above to impart the signature smoky aroma of high-flame stir fry.
Thai-Style Crab Fried RiceSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThai khao phat buu—fried rice with crab—is one of the very best ways to spotlight sweet, flaky crab meat. This dish features fragrant jasmine rice lightly seasoned with fish sauce, garlic, and chiles, then tossed with scrambled egg, picked crabmeat, and scallions.
Nasi Goreng (Indonesian Fried Rice)Serious Eats / Qi AiThis is Indonesia's flavor-packed take on fried rice—redolent with kecap manis, the country's ubiquitous sweet soy sauce, and terasi (Indonesian shrimp paste) which adds a potent dose of umami and gives the fried rice its distinct flavor. A fried egg, sliced tomato, and sliced cucumber complete the dish.
Kimchi and Spam Fried RiceSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThe winning combination of pungent, spicy, acidic kimchi and salty, fatty Spam is what transforms leftover rice into what Kenji declares the ultimate Korean-American late-night drunk food. Topped with a runny fried egg, it's comfort food you can eat morning, noon, and night—drunk or not.
Japanese Pork Fried Rice Omelette With Okonomiyaki Sauce (Omurice)Serious Eats / Qi AiAnyone who has seen viral videos of soft, runny omelette luxuriously cascading over a mound of seasoned Japanese fried rice can't help but be mesmerized by it. With Daniel's version, you don't need to be an omelette expert to make this simple pork fried rice topped with egg and okonomiyaki sauce. Not rolling the eggs into a true omelette shape makes it far easier to drape them over the rice, as the dish is traditionally served. If pork isn't your thing, try his chicken omurice.
Nigerian Fried RiceSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineThe light-yellow-hued rice dish strewn with vegetables looks, feels, and eats like a dish that’s a cross between Indian pilau and Chinese fried rice. Using converted rice ensures that the grains stay separate. The fluffy rice is first par-cooked in stock to infuse it with savoriness, then cooked a second time to combine it with vegetables.
Fodni Bhaat (Indian Fried Rice)Serious Eats / Fred HardyFodni bhaat is a popular Indian leftover rice dish that's often eaten for breakfast. Garlic gives the dish a nice flavor and bite, while the green chile imparts subtle heat.
Fried Rice With Blistered Green Beans and BasilSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltCharred, blistered green beans are an excellent accompaniment to rice, and here the beans make up over 50% of the weight of the final dish. To flavor it, Kenji uses garlic, scallions, Thai chiles, and a whole lot of fresh Thai basil.
Garlic Fried RiceSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis Filipino-style garlic rice pairs beautifully with any super-savory, super-saucy main dish, especially chicken adobo. Here, we take the extra step of straining out the fried garlic bits before frying the rice in the garlic-infused oil to prevent the garlic from burning, which can give the rice an unpleasantly bitter taste.
Crispy Kimchi Cheese RiceSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThough technically not a "fried rice" in the traditional sense, crispy kimchi cheese rice has the same easy-to-make, easy-to-eat vibes of fried rice. Leftover rice is seasoned thoroughly with flavorful gochujang, soy sauce, and rice vinegar before being layered with kimchi and cheese, and crisped up in a skillet.
Serious Eats / Photographer: Jen Causey, Food Stylist: Emily Nabors Hall, Prop Stylist: Josh HoggleThere’s a popular culinary saying that what grows together goes together, and in the case of this summery tomato-watermelon salad, that's definitely true. Crisp, fresh watermelon and ripe tomatoes are a perfect pairing for an easy, fresh hot weather salad. Here, the two sweet, juicy fruits (yes, tomatoes are a fruit) are perfectly complemented by fresh mint and creamy, salty feta cheese.
While the combination of ingredients makes total sense, for the perfect tomato-watermelon salad we had to ensure that the fruity watermelon and tomato flavors didn’t get drowned out when tossed with savory ingredients. Seasoned recipe developer Julia Levy put the salad through its paces in our test kitchen to get a version that is salty, sweet, acidic, and with a hint of spice.
Julia also figured out a way to tame the juiciness of the two star ingredients while preserving their texture and flavor. The result is a salad that's not just delicious, but also has an absolutely gorgeous presentation to show off summer's bounty. Here are a few tips for making it.
Serious Eats / Jen Causey7 Simple Tips for the Best Tomato-Watermelon Salad1. Start with three types of tomatoes. As clichéd as it may sound, this salad really is a celebration of summer’s bounty. And we lean into this idea by calling for not just one type of tomato, but three varieties. The larger heirloom tomatoes (any larger heirloom variety will work well here) are thinly sliced and fanned out underneath the dressed salad. This creates a gorgeous presentation, but it’s also practical: The undressed thin slices of tomatoes will catch all of the excess dressing and juices from the tossed salad that’s layered on top of it, so none of the flavorful dressing is lost on the plate. Smaller cocktail and cherry tomatoes, which are bursting with sweet flavor, are cut and tossed with the dressing and the watermelon. For a really pretty salad, we recommend looking for multicolored tomatoes. 2. Salt and drain the heirloom tomatoes. We use our go-to Serious Eats technique of salting and draining tomatoes with the thinly sliced cocktail tomatoes in this recipe. It not only ensures the tomatoes are dry and don’t leach excess water onto the serving platter, but salting them in advance draws out their water to concentrate the tomato's flavor. 3. Marinate the cherry and cocktail tomatoes. While salting the larger sliced tomatoes keeps them from leaving behind an unwanted puddle of juices, with the smaller cherry tomatoes and cocktail tomatoes that marinate in the dressing, we actually want a puddle of tomato juices collecting on the bottom of the bowl. In the case of this salad the flavorful tomato liquid contributes to the dressing—it adds fresh vegetal flavor to the salad that pairs well with the sweet watermelon. 4. Let the salad sit. The naturally released liquids from the cherry tomatoes are critical in this recipe. When combined with the added acid, oil, salt, and chile in the dressing, the juices from the cherry tomatoes form an even more flavorful dressing. To this end, it's necessary to let the salad sit for at least 30 minutes before serving so there's time for the dressing to "make itself." The marinated, softened cherry tomatoes are also a welcome contrast in texture to the crisp watermelon. 5. Add the watermelon just before serving. While the tomatoes benefit from being pre-salted or marinated to draw out excess moisture, Levy found that pre-treating the watermelon with salt negatively affected its texture. Instead, to retain the watermelon’s crips bite, it is best to not salt the watermelon in advance, and instead to toss it with the dressed cut cherry tomatoes right before serving. 6. Balance the sweet watermelon and tomatoes with an assertive dressing. To counter the juiciness and sweetness of the watermelon and the tomatoes, we made an intense dressing with assertive ingredients such as white balsamic vinegar, honey, lime juice and zest, and fresh serrano chile for a welcome kick. 7. Finish with feta and mint. Fresh mint and salty, creamy feta cheese add not only an attractive array of colors, but these final garnishes also bring welcome contrasting textures to the soft tomatoes and the crisp watermelon, as well as a pop of earthy flavor from the mint, and a briny, salty bite from the cheese. Levy found it best to sprinkle both the mint and feta on top before serving. When they were tossed into the salad, their vibrant colors were lost when coated in the dressing.
Serious Eats / Jen Causey In a medium non-reactive bowl, whisk together vinegar, lime juice, honey, and 3/4 teaspoon salt. Stir in shallot and let sit for 10 minutes. Whisk in oil, lime zest and juice, and serrano.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyToss cocktail and cherry tomatoes in dressing and let sit at room temperature to marinate for 30 minutes, gently tossing occasionally.
Serious Eats / Jen Causey While the cocktail and cherry tomatoes marinate, place the heirloom tomato slices on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle evenly with remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Let sit for 10 minutes. Pour any accumulated tomato juices into the dressing mixture.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyArrange heirloom tomato slices on a serving platter. Gently toss watermelon cubes with cocktail and cherry tomatoes and dressing; using a slotted spoon, spoon tomato and watermelon salad over heirloom tomato slices. Sprinkle with feta, mint, and flaky salt. Serve immediately with the remaining marinade/dressing on the side for drizzling.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseySpecial EquipmentWire rack and rimmed baking sheet
NotesCocktail tomatoes are small tomatoes on the vine, roughly the size of a golf ball. Any small heirloom tomato will work well here. If you can't find them, you can simply use additional cherry tomatoes.
Make-Ahead and StorageThis salad is best eaten fresh, but it can sit at room temperature for up to 4 hours, or be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 day. Note that as it sits, excess liquid will puddle on the bottom.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikPesto is one of the best ways to use up abundance of bright, fresh herbs. Pesto comes from the word for "crushed" in Italian, and here we show you how to transform more than just basil into this super condiment. Cilantro, tarragon, parsley, mint: They all have a place in our pesto-saturated hearts. Below we'll also give you ideas for incorporating pesto into meals other than pasta (although we are not complaining about a plate of pesto-covered pasta). Flank steak, potato salad, even soup can benefit from the concentrated flavor that pesto brings.
And if you have a nut allergy or don't eat cheese, read on for the best pesto options for you too.
Pesto Pasta With Potatoes and Green BeansSerious Eats / Vicky WasikHere's a classic Genovese method of making pesto pasta with potatoes and green beans, plus some tips on how to serve pasta with pesto.
The Best Pesto Alla Genovese (Classic Basil Pesto Sauce)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThis pesto sauce, through rounds and rounds of testing, has been honed to the perfect ratio, ingredients, and method. And, while a mortar and pestle requires a bit of work, the superior sauce it produces compared to a food processor can't be argued with. This is the true, best pesto.
Yukon Gold Potato Salad With Tarragon Pesto and Pickled OnionsSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerThis simple pesto tarragon sauce has bright, clean flavors and is delicious as a dressing for potato salad. Torn black olives and tangy pickled onions add salinity and tartness.
Pesto alla Trapanese (Sicilian Pesto With Almonds and Tomatoes)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikPesto alla trapanese is rich with nuts, basil, olive oil, garlic, and cheese. But there's a secret ingredient that transforms the sauce into something even lighter and more refreshing: tomatoes.
Pizza with Pesto, Ricotta, and MozzarellaSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltA thin New York-style crust is covered in melty mozzarella, then dolloped with fresh ricotta and bright green pesto for a bright and creamy white pizza.
Ramp PestoSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezHere's a garlicky, savory pesto made from a foraged wild onion that chefs (and food writers) go wild for.
Zucchini and Lettuce Soup With PestoSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltWhen summer produce is at its peak and there are enormous zucchini and bunches of almost-wilting lettuce that need a home, it can all be put together in a soup. And this emerald-green soup is made even brighter with a last-minute dollop of pesto stirred in.
Fennel Frond Pesto With Lemon and AnchoviesSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerFennel fronds, garlic, lemon juice, Dijon mustard, and a lot of anchovies make this pesto a flavorful and versatile condiment to have on hand. Use it as pasta sauce, spoon it into soup, or swirl it into ricotta.
Grilled Stuffed Flank Steak With Pesto, Mozzarella, and ProsciuttoSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltGrilling and pesto are highlights of summer. Here we combine the two by slathering a butterflied flank steak with fresh pesto, then layering it with mozzarella and prosciutto before slicing it into pinwheels and grilling it over hot coals.
Spaghetti With Parsley PestoSerious Eats / Kerry SaretskyThis pesto celebrates what parsley's all about: grassy, light freshness. It's made from parsley, walnuts, parmesan, olive oil, and plenty of garlic, since parsley can really take the flavor.
Pumpkin Seed PestoSerious Eats / Robin BellingerHave a nut allergy? No problem. This pesto is still flavorful and delicious with all of the usual main players: basil, parmesan, garlic, and olive oil, but instead of nuts, pumpkin seeds are swapped in.
Fingerling Potato Salad With Aioli, Pesto, Fried Shallots, and PecorinoSerious Eats / Joshua BouselThis fingerling potato salad with aioli, basil pesto, fried shallots, and pecorino is full of contrasts that come together into one amazing side dish.
Vegan Garden Pesto With Miso and Mixed HerbsSerious Eats / Vicky WasikPut this versatile pesto on the table alongside a mixed grill. It's tasty with both lamb chops and chicken legs, shrimp and grilled vegetables, and, of course, served with pasta. Miso gives this pesto a remarkably savory, almost cheesy flavor, and keeps the sauce vegan for those avoiding animal products.
Mint, Feta, and Pistachio PestoSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerThis pesto is created with roughly equal quantities of mint and parsley. Parsley helps rein in the mint without competing too much with its fresh aroma and flavor. Pistachios and feta round out the intriguing ingredient list.
Cilantro PestoSerious Eats / Joshua BouselThis fresh take on pesto features substitutions that complement the flavor of cilantro—pine nuts became pumpkin seeds and parmesan was replaced with cotija. A serrano pepper adds a bit of heat and lime juice brings a fresh acidity.
Serious Eats/Kanika and Jatin SharmaOne of my favorite ways to eat carrots when I was growing up was my mother’s vibrant gajarachi koshimbir, a popular salad of grated carrots with mustard seeds and curry leaves from Maharashtra, my home state on India’s west coast. She’d serve the salad to me as part of a Marathi lunch or dinner of chapatis, rice, dal, vegetables, and yogurt. The tangy and acidic carrot salad paired well with the meal’s mild, hearty carbs. My mom’s salad was a medley of sharp flavors and contrasting textures. The grated carrots soaked up the lime juice they were macerated in; mustard seeds, onions, and peanuts provided crunch; the curry leaves heated in oil infused the salad with the leave's distinctive earthy aroma; and the cilantro and grated fresh coconut added a pop of color, chew, and delicate sweetness.
This salad is common in Maharashtra, where it’s made with carrots or cabbage or both. I love my mom’s version so much that I even included her recipe in my The Essential Marathi Cookbook.
As a caterer and culinary instructor in California, I’ve made gajarachi koshimbir many times for events and cooking demonstrations over the years, and during this time, I began referring to it as a mayonnaise-less “slaw” because it's crunchy with an acidic bite similar to most slaws. Whether you call it a salad or slaw, it is great served alongside pasta or barbecue, and it also makes a delicious topping for meat sandwiches, like Vietnamese banh mi or even burgers. My version here is an adaptation of my mom’s recipe with a few tweaks: I use a lot more lime juice and curry leaves than she did, and instead of using grated carrots, I prefer thicker shredded carrots because they hold up to the acidic dressing better. Here is how to make this refreshing salad at home.
Serious Eats/Kanika and Jatin SharmaTips for Making Gajarachi KoshimbirTry using store-bought pre-shredded carrots. As a caterer, I often made this salad for large groups, and I found that grating pounds of carrots became tiresome. It was convenient and quicker to use store bought shredded carrots, Even when I make a smaller portion at home, I still reach for this convenience item. (The matchstick–shredded carrots from Trader Joe’s are my favorite.)
On top of the time and arm strength saved by using pre-shredded carrots, I found that because the store-bought shredded ones were slightly thicker than the carrots I grated at home and more consistent in size, they retained their crunch after being marinated for hours in the lime juice and seasoned oil mixture. If you prefer, you can still grate the carrots yourself with a box grater for this recipe. Just make sure to store the salad in a cool place and serve it within two hours of dressing, otherwise the carrots will turn unpleasantly soggy.
Let the salad sit. Unlike many fresh, leafy green salads, this carrot salad’s flavors will improve with time as it sits dressed. As the carrots and onion macerate with the sugar, salt, and lime juice, the flavors blend together, and the acidity from the lime juice softens the carrots and onions slightly.
Serious Eats/Kanika and Jatin SharmaTry using a seasoning wok. A seasoning wok is a small wok that is used in Indian cooking for toasting spices and for making seasoned oil blends. They generally are made from thicker metal than Chinese woks and can cook longer over high heat than thin carbon steel woks without the risk of burning. I often use a seasoning wok at home to make spice blends for a variety of dishes.
If you don’t have a seasoning wok, a small, flat-bottomed saucepan works well. Whichever pan you choose, after pouring the seasoning into the salad, make sure to put some of the carrots into the seasoning pan, and use tongs or a spoon to push the carrots around, scrapping up the last bits of spice and flavor from the pan, before adding back into the salad. It’s a simple technique to make sure you get every bit of the cooked spice blend into the food.
Add asafoetida for an assertive flavor. Asafoetida is a gum resin that drips off the roots of an herb called ferula asafoetida, a central Asian plant in the celery family. It is gathered and then ground into a powder. Nuggets of it used to be left in sacks of grain because bugs stayed away from its strong aroma. Cooks in India learned that its strong onion-garlic smell and flavor was a welcome addition in many dishes. In the Indian state of Maharashtra, where my family is from, asafoetida-mustard-turmeric is often considered the “holy trinity” of seasonings. My father didn't like asafoetida’s pungent aroma, so my mother never cooked with it when I was growing up. But as an adult I’ve grown to love its flavor and always use it when I make a mustard seed seasoning, like I do here in my carrot slaw.
Customize it with your preferred vegetables. Sometimes, Mom made the salad even more colorful and hearty by adding chunks of tomato and thinly sliced cabbage. Feel free to do the same here, or add shredded broccoli or brussels sprouts. All of these can be used in combination or used as alternatives to the carrot. If adding other ingredients, scale down the amount of carrots to keep the final volume of the salad ingredients the same. This ensures the salad will still be evenly coated in the lime juice and dressing.
For the Salad: Place shredded carrots and onions in a glass, ceramic, or non-reactice metal mixing bowl. Toss with sugar, salt, and lime juice. Macerate at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour, stirring occasionally to redistribute the lime juice.
Serious Eats/Kanika and Jatin SharmaStir cumin and cilantro into the carrots. Season with salt to taste.
Serious Eats/Kanika and Jatin SharmaFor the Hot Oil Seasoning: in a small saucepan or seasoning wok, heat the oil over medium-high heat until just smoking, about 1 minute. Keep a lid/screen handy.
Serious Eats/Kanika and Jatin SharmaReduce heat to low and test the oil with one mustard seed. If it pops right away, the oil is ready; if not, return heat to medium-high for 1 additional minute and retest. When ready, quickly add the remaining mustard seeds to the saucepan and cover with the lid/screen. The mustard seeds will pop, making a sound like popping corn, about 30 seconds. Once the popping stops, uncover the pan and add the turmeric, stir briefly, then add the asafoetida. Turn the heat up to medium-low and add the chiles. Stir well.
Serious Eats/Kanika and Jatin SharmaAdd the curry leaves and cook until sizzling, about 30 seconds. Turn off the heat and stir. Do not let the curry leaves brown.
Serious Eats/Kanika and Jatin SharmaPour the spiced oil over the macerated carrot mixture immediately. Then put some of the carrots into the pan and, using tongs or a spoon, push them around to wipe up any leftover oil and lingering spices and spoon them back into the salad. Season to taste with salt and more lime/lemon juice if needed. Stir well to combine.
Serious Eats/Kanika and Jatin SharmaFor Serving: Transfer to a serving platter. Sprinkle with cilantro, coconut, and peanuts. Serve.
Serious Eats/Kanika and Jatin SharmaSpecial EquipmentA small saucepan or seasoning wok
NotesUse a ceramic, glass, or nonreactive metal bowl to make the salad. Avoid using a plastic bowl that might get discolored from the turmeric in the oil.
This recipe can be easily doubled.
I prefer to use store bought shredded carrots, my favorite brand is Trader Joe’s. You can also buy whole carrots and grate them yourself on a box grater.
Use white onions when making Indian food as they are the closest approximation to Indian onions that I have found. Red onions are too sharp for this salad and, in my opinion, yellow onions simply do not work with the spices in Indian food.
Asafoetida can be found at most Indian grocers. It’s also available to purchase online; Burlap and Barrel and Amazon are two sources. I recommend the powder sold in small jars, rather than large plastic containers, because they hold the aroma. You will smell an onion-garlic aroma from the asafoetida when you open the container. Keep it tightly shut between uses, otherwise the smell will pervade your entire kitchen. While it adds a distinct assertive garlic and onion–like flavor to the chutney, you can omit it if unavailable, but the chutney will be less aromatic.
Use fresh curry leaves, not dried. The dried ones do not have the intense flavor of the fresh. They are usually available at Indian stores.
Make-Ahead and StorageThis salad can be held at room temperature for up to 4 hours or refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Photographer: Jen Causey, Food Stylist: Ana Kelly , Prop Stylist: Josh HoggleI grew up mostly in North Carolina and a little bit in Louisiana, and although I've lived in the Northeast for nearly 30 years, I still miss the truly excellent fried chicken you get in the South—perfectly juicy, extra crispy, flavorful-in-every-bite fried chicken is just too hard to come by up here. And, sure, I could make my own, but deep frying in my studio apartment was a one-and-done event for me. When your kitchen is also your living room and bedroom, the cost-benefit analysis doesn't fall on the "deep fry it!" side very often.
Lucky for me—and all fried chicken lovers—you can make a great version of fried chicken in your air fryer, no vat of oil required, thanks to this air-fryer fried chicken recipe created by our Birmingham, Alabama-based test kitchen colleague Marianne Williams. Read on to learn how, through numerous tests and tweaks, Williams created a recipe that delivers air-fryer "fried" chicken that's juicy and full of flavor on the inside and super-crispy on the outside, then use our tips and the full recipe below to create it in your own kitchen.
While the recipe is written for a combination of bone-in and skin-on breasts and thighs, you can make this recipe with whatever chicken pieces you prefer: skin-on or skinless, bone-in or boneless, breasts, thighs, or other parts. (Though if you are going with boneless and skinless meat, we recommend choosing thighs, which stay juicier than breasts.) This recipe is written to serve six people and must be cooked in two batches, but it's easily halved if you just want to serve two or three people. I like it with Southern sides like cornbread or buttermilk biscuits, stewed green beans or okra, and mac and cheese.
Serious Eats / Jen Causey5 Tips for Marking the Best Southern Fried Chicken in the Air Fryer1. Lock in flavor and juiciness with a buttermilk-pickle brine. Soaking the chicken in a combination of egg, buttermilk, and pickle juice, along with hot sauce for a little kick and honey for a touch of sweetness, ensures the meat is seasoned throughout with both salt and a touch of acidity. The salt and acid not only add flavor but also lock in juiciness—thanks to salt's ability to prevent proteins from releasing too much water during cooking and acid's natural tenderizing effects. We normally don't recommend marinating for more than a few hours (most flavors outside of salt and acid don't penetrate far into the meat, and most acids can turn meat mushy if left on it for too long), but this marinade can be allowed to work its magic up to overnight, since the lactic acid in the brine is gentler on meat than other acids. 2. Pat the chicken dry after marinating. While you normally don’t pat chicken dry after a buttermilk brine and before dredging, since the wetness can help the dredge to adhere, but in this case drying the chicken helps a ton with getting a crispy crunchy exterior in the air fryer. Too much moisture can lead to soggy fried chicken. 3. Add rice flour to the dry dredge. Cutting the wheat flour with rice flour improves the crispness and texture of the final coating. This is because wheat flour contains gluten-forming proteins, which can lead to excessive toughness. A more pure starch like rice flour mixed in reduces the total amount of those gluten-forming proteins, while still providing starch to absorb moisture. The final result is a light, crunchy coating that resists sogginess. (Baking powder is also added to the dredge for similar toughness-fighting benefits.) 4. Generously season the dry dredge. One complaint I have about a lot of the fried chicken you get outside of the South is that even if the coating is adequately crispy (a big if), it's often bland and underseasoned. Williams solves this by spiking the dry dredge with not only adequate salt but also onion powder, granulated garlic, and smoked paprika, which give the crunchy exterior a robust flavor. 5. Use oil smartly. While you need much less oil in the air fryer than for deep frying, some oil is still necessary for crispy "fried" chicken. The first step is adding oil to the air-fryer basket (you'll line it with foil first), which our testing revealed is an important step to ensure the chicken crisps where it's in contact with the basket. Then you'll use cooking spray to coat the chicken all over before frying, creating something like a micro-layer of oil in which the chicken can "fry." Don't hold back here: You want to spray the oil all over the chicken pieces until no dry flour is visible. 6. Cook it at the right temperature. Williams tested air frying the chicken and various temperatures to arrive at the "Goldilocks" spot of 380°F (193°C). Any cooler and the chicken will not be crispy enough, but go hotter and it's likely to overbrown and burn before the meat is cooked through.
Serious Eats / Jen Causey, Food Stylist: Ana Kelly , Prop Stylist: Josh HoggleIn a large bowl, whisk buttermilk, eggs, pickle brine, hot sauce, honey, and 3 tablespoons (27g) of the salt together until well-combined. Add chicken thighs and breasts and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 12 hours. Remove chicken from refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyWhen ready to cook, line two baking sheets with wire racks. In a large bowl, whisk together all-purpose flour, rice flour, onion powder, granulated garlic, smoked paprika, baking powder, pepper, and remaining 1 tablespoon (9g) salt until well-combined.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyPour about 1/4 cup (60ml) of the buttermilk marinade from bowl with chicken into flour mixture, using your hands or a flexible spatula, stir to form small clumps (most of flour should be dry).
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyWorking with one or two pieces at a time, remove chicken from marinade, allowing excess to drip back into the bowl, and pat excess marinade from chicken using paper towels. Place chicken into the bowl with flour mixture and turn, pressing to coat chicken evenly in flour mixture.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyDrizzle more buttermilk mixture, 1 tablespoon at a time, over breaded chicken in bowl and turn once more so additional craggy bits of coating stick to chicken.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyTransfer breaded chicken to one of the prepared baking sheets (leave one of the baking sheets empty for cooked chicken). Let chicken sit on wire rack for 15 minutes before cooking. Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 225°F (110ºC). Using a fork or a sharp knife, pierce a piece of heavy duty aluminum foil large enough to wrap the basket of a 6-quart air fryer all over, then wrap the basket tightly with foil.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyDrizzle 1 tablespoon of the canola oil over foil and set the prepared basket in the air fryer. Preheat air fryer to 380°F (195ºC) for 3 minutes. Once preheated, place 4 thighs or 2 breasts, skin-side down, in the air fryer. Spray all over with a generous amount of cooking spray until no dry flour is visible.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyCook chicken until golden-brown and crispy on both sides, and an instant-read thermometer registers 170°F (77ºC) for chicken thighs and 155°F (68ºC) for chicken breasts, about 22 to 25 minutes for the chicken thighs and 30 minutes for the chicken breast, flipping and spraying the top side of the chicken with more cooking spray halfway through.
Transfer the cooked chicken to the clean baking sheet and season to taste with salt. Place in oven to keep warm while preparing the remaining chicken. Brush now-empty foil-lined basket with remaining tablespoon of oil and repeat cooking with remaining chicken. (Let chicken rest 10 minutes.) Serve with your favorite sides.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseySpecial Equipment2 rimmed baking sheets, 2 wire racks, 6-quart air fryer, instant-read thermometer
NotesRice flours can vary widely in texture and consistency. We recommend Bob’s Red Mill white rice flour, which is readily available in grocery stores and online.
Make-Ahead and StorageCooked chicken safely be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to four days, but it will lose its crunchiness.
Serious Eats/Amanda SuarezIn July 2013, chefs in London created what was supposedly the world’s largest Eton mess, the classic British dessert of berries, whipped cream, and meringue. Assembled and served from an enormous martini glass, the confection weighed a whopping 368 pounds. To serve the dessert to 2,000 hungry passersby, a chef perched on a ladder, scooping out portions of the dessert bit by bit until there was none left. Had I been there, they most likely would have served only one person: me.
Okay, it may be a bit of an exaggeration to say that I could single handedly tackle an Eton mess of that size. But it really is my favorite way to enjoy sweet summer berries. And with heaps of whipped cream, ripe berries (typically strawberries, but some iterations include raspberries, blackberries, and blueberries), and crisp meringues that are just beginning to soften, it’s everything you want in a light summer dessert. It’s easy to assemble, and even easier to eat—and nobody in my husband’s British family can stop at just one serving.
Serious Eats/Amanda SuarezAccording to food writer Helen Saberi, writing in The Oxford Companion to Sweets, the dessert was first mentioned in historian Arthur Beavan’s 1896 book Marlborough House and Its Occupants. In a chapter detailing “notable balls, fêtes, and garden parties” at the royal residence, he notes that “Eton Mess aux Fraises,” or Eton mess with strawberries, was served at an 1893 garden party that Queen Victoria attended. Many, however, attribute the creation of the dessert to Eton College, the posh boys’ school in Windsor, England. There are iterations of Eton mess throughout the country, and Saberi mentions that a version with bananas—called Lancing mess—is served at Lancing College in Sussex.
Though strawberries are traditionally used to make the dessert, I’ve seen it served with an assortment of berries. What berries you incorporate and how you assemble the dessert is entirely up to you; some smush everything—the whipped cream, meringues, and berries—together in a bowl, then spoon it into individual bowls to serve. Others carefully layer the components to create a parfait of some sort.
Here, I opt for a combination of raspberries and strawberries; some recipes call for blending the fruit to create a juicier mixture, but I find it much easier—and just as delicious—to quickly macerate the fruit with sugar and a bit of lemon zest. I prefer layering the dessert in individual glasses, but if you’re short on time or simply can’t be bothered, you can assemble the whole thing in a large serving dish. And whether you choose to make your own meringue cookies or use store-bought is entirely up to you; eaten as a whole, it’s likely no one will notice if your meringues weren’t made from scratch.
Serious Eats/Amanda SuarezBeyond the necessary inclusion of berries, meringue, and whipped cream, there are no hard or fast rules on how to serve Eton mess. The most important thing is that you make it before berry season is over—because while supermarket fruit will suffice, the dessert is the most delicious when made with berries so ripe they look as if they’re about to burst.
In a medium bowl, toss strawberries and raspberries with sugar and lemon zest to evenly coat. Set aside.
Serious Eats/Amanda SuarezPlace meringue cookies in a zip-top bag and, using a rolling pin or a wine bottle, crush until coarsely ground. Set aside.
Serious Eats/Amanda SuarezIn the bowl of a stand mixer or hand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, whisk heavy cream, powdered sugar, vanilla extract, and salt on medium speed until medium soft peaks form, about 4 minutes.
To Assemble: Cover bottom of each of four 12-ounce glasses with 2 tablespoons of the prepared berries. Top with a layer of whipped cream, followed by crushed meringue cookies. Repeat until glasses are full. (Alternatively, you can assemble Eton Mess in a large serving dish, such as a trifle bowl.)
Serious Eats/Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentZip-top bag, rolling pin, stand mixer or hand mixer
Make-Ahead and Storage
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikGrowing up, my extended family would gather maybe once a month at one of our go-to Chinese restaurants in the Bay Area, where my grandparents would always let me pick one communal dish for the lazy Susan. And I always chose the same dish: stir-fried clams with fermented black beans. Besides this dish, the only other clam dish I ate (or knew about) when I was young was New England clam chowder.
As much as I loved those stir-fried clams, the idea of actually cooking clams didn't occur to me until I went to cooking school. Culinary school is also where I finally learned why those stir-fried clams were sometimes gritty. Who knew you had to first purge all the sand out of those suckers before cooking them? (Don't worry: All of our recipes include the purging process.) But once you do, a whole world of delicious possibilities, uh hem, opens up.
The briny, bouncy chew of clams works beautifully in a variety of dishes, from New England stuffed clams and chowders to aromatic Asian stir-fries to flavor-packed comforting stews like doenjang jjigae. While fresh clams are prized around the world, don't discount canned clams. Combined with the right ingredients, they can be fantastic in dishes like pasta and dip. Whichever you have on hand, we have a clam recipe that'll work for you.
Rhode Island–Style Stuffed Quahog Clams ("Stuffies")Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteBaked stuffed clams are ubiquitous along the New England coastline. These "stuffies" are unique to Rhode Island, comprising a Portuguese-influenced mixture of bread, large briny quahog clams, and smoky chouriço that's cured and loaded with garlic and paprika. Clam cooking liquid amplifies the clam flavor and keeps the stuffing moist.
Easy, Ultimate Clams CasinoSerious Eats / Vicky WasikClams casino is an old-school hors d'oeuvre aptly named because most "classic" renditions turn perfectly stellar ingredients into a train wreck ("casino" translates to "mess" in Italian). Daniel set out to change all that by using reduced clam cooking liquid to make an intensely flavorful bacon-clam compound butter, which is slathered onto each clam and then finished with a bacon–panko crumb topping. Assembly can be done well ahead so all you have to do is pop those chilled babies into the oven at party time.
Broiled Clams With Tomatoes, Butter, and TarragonSerious Eats / Vicky WasikA blast of intense heat from your broiler can magically transform a few simple fresh ingredients into a specular one-skillet meal in minutes. It probably takes longer (but not by much) to purge sand from the clams than to prep and cook them with butter, tomatoes, and garlic. Have plenty of crusty bread on hand to soak up all that heavenly clam liquor.
New England Clam ChowderSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltNew England clam chowder is another classic that can do with a bit of an upgrade using some modern techniques. We start with a flavor-packed foundation of crisped salt pork, onion, and celery for the clams to steam in, then reserve the cooked clams and add them back to the soup at the very end to keep them tender. A high-speed blender emulsifies the soup base to a luxuriously thick (but not too thick) creamy consistency without the need for roux—dare we say the new platonic ideal of New England clam chowder?
Rhode Island Clam Chowder With White Wine and BaconSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerArguably the clammiest of clam chowders, this lighter Rhode Island version is dairy-free and has a bright rich broth that lets the brininess of the clams shine. It's loaded with tender potatoes and bits of salty bacon.
Pacific Razor Clam ChowderSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis West Coast rendition of clam chowder showcases Pacific razor clams and subs out buttery leeks for onions, adding a splash of dry vermouth and fresh thyme for good measure. A lighter touch with the cream provides just enough dairy richness to yield a velvety texture while keeping the flavor fresh and bright.
Doenjang Jjigae (Korean Fermented Bean Paste Stew)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikFermented bean paste or doenjang jjigae is one of the most popular Korean stews, eaten at all times of the day with plenty of steamed rice on the side. It's also one of the first things many Koreans learn to cook and is easily adapted to any vegetable and protein. Here, clams take the spotlight. They're added last, after the vegetables and doenjang have had time to simmer, to retain their tenderness.
Miso Soup With ClamsSerious Eats / Vicky WasikInspired by the version served at Manhattan's EN Japanese Brasserie, this sophisticated soup puts the briny Manila clam front and center, relying on clam juice for the dashi base instead of the more commonly used shaved bonito.
Stir-Fried Clams With XO SauceSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThe combination of fresh briny clams and XO sauce is a savory knockout punch that comes together in a matter of minutes. Pull the clams out as soon as they pop open to ensure they don't overcook, then add the XO sauce to the remaining pan juices, simmer, and pour over the clams. Sprinkle on some sliced scallions and dinner is served.
Stir-Fried Clams with Thai Chili Jam and BasilSerious Eats / Leela PunyaratabandhuLooking for a spicy kick? Stir-fry fresh clams with Thai chili jam or nam prik pao, which is so packed with flavor you may not even need to add fish sauce. Finish off with lots of aromatic fresh Thai basil.
Pizza With Fresh Clams, Garlic, Mozzarella, Romano, and BasilSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltClam pies are a specialty in the pizza-centric town of New Haven, but even the most popular joints use pre-shucked clams. Kenji's method of placing whole unshucked clams, hinge side down, on the pie just before baking the pizza on a preheated stone under the broiler ensures they come out perfectly plump and tender without losing a single precious drop of juice.
Spaghetti Alle Vongole in Bianco (Spaghetti With White Clam Sauce)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikSome would say that the charm of this classic Italian pasta dish is the clamshells entangled in the spaghetti. Others, like Daniel, would ardently disagree. Cooked clams are plucked out of their shells and added back to the pasta at the end so the dish is easier to eat. Save a few shells to garnish the plate so your guests will know you used fresh clams.
Spaghetti With Canned-Clam SauceSerious Eats / Sho SpaethOkay, sometimes you just can't get your hands on some fresh bivalves for your pasta. The solution? Zhuzh up canned clam with soy sauce for a bit of umami, add some butter for dairy richness, and finish off with celery leaves for freshness.
Clams Casino DipSerious Eats / Morgan EisenbergThis is the perfect recipe to make if you want the retro vibes of clams casino but don't want to bother with making the real deal (and I mean Daniel's new and improved version). Canned clams make prep easy while providing plenty of clammy goodness. Taking a page from Daniel's playbook, bacon-fat toasted panko crumbs layer on more flavor.
Clams With Tequila and ChorizoSerious Eats / Marvin GapultosMexican chorizo, tequila, and fresh clam juice are what make this dish an awesome bar snack.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteThrough the spring and into the early fall, I look for any excuse to grill outside. In these cherished warm months, pretty much everything my family eats comes off of the grill, even salads. One of my favorite grilled salad recipes that is always a crowd-pleaser is my deeply flavorful twist on a classic grilled chicken Caesar salad. It’s savory and hearty enough to be served as the main meal, and it is ready to serve fresh off of the grill in under 45 minutes.
My recipe starts with the classic building blocks of the Caesar salad—chopped romaine lettuce, garlicky croutons, and a creamy dressing made with eggs, olive oil, lemon, Parmesan, Worcestershire sauce, and anchovies—plus grilled chicken. This basic dish has become a US restaurant staple, and in most cases it's a pretty uninspired affair. While even the laziest combination of savory, creamy, tangy, and crunchy ingredients is still delicious, there is plenty of opportunity to make this so much better .
In my recipe, I infuse the salad with a rustic, smoky char by grilling every element (except the dressing—good luck grilling that). There are a few key techniques and modifications, though, to ensure the chicken is juicy, the lettuce isn't limp, and the grilled croutons flavorful. Here are my tips.
Keep the Dressing ClassicI use Kenji’s classic caesar salad dressing in this recipe. It’s rich with egg and Parmesan, and gets its signature savory depth from anchovy and garlic. Yes, the Caesar salad dressing used here contains anchovies. While it’s debatable if the original caesar salad had anchovies or not, I think they're essential for their briny, umami-rich flavor. Feel free to adjust the number of anchovies (or even omit them), and/or adjust the amount of Worcestershire sauce (which itself contains a small amount of anchovy) to your taste.
If you're concerned about the safety of using raw egg in the dressing, you can either purchase already-pasteurized eggs, or as Kenji suggests, even pasteurize your eggs at home using a sous vide circulator set at 135°F (57°C) for two hours.
The dressing comes together in just a few minutes, and can be made while the chicken is brining and before you go out to grill, or it can be made and refrigerated up to two days ahead, to minimize indoor cooking prep when you’re ready to grill. If you’re strapped for time, or just don’t feel like making a homemade dressing (although I strongly recommend you do, as homemade is always best), you can use a store-bought Caesar salad dressing.
Cook Everything Over a Hot FireIn any recipe that involves grilling multiple elements that cook at different rates, it can be a challenge to choose the right heat level for the grill. This is even more true for a charcoal grill, where you can’t quickly adjust a knob to change the heat level as needed.
Luckily, in this recipe the solution was easy since all the components benefit from high heat. For a gas grill, simply keep the knobs on high; for a charcoal grill, use a full chimney (6 quarts) of charcoal briquettes and pour them over just half of the coal grate. By concentrating the coals into a smaller area, you have an even more intense hot fire than if the coals were spread over the entire coal grate.
By cooking everything over the coals on the hotter side of the grill you ensure deep browning while minimizing dehydration, the the case of the chicken and bread, and wilting in the case of the romaine. Everything cooks very fast, within a few minutes, so make sure to monitor closely while grilling, and move or flip the ingredients as needed to build a deep and even sear without burning or overcooking the food.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteHow to Ensure Juicy, Flavorful ChickenDespite their popularity, chicken breasts are arguably one of the most difficult meats to grill. Due to their irregular shape and how lean the meat is, it's all too common to for the breasts to dry out on the grill, leaving you with slabs of deeply seared chewy cardboard. With the right prep, though, this can easily be avoided, and you can get fantastic, juicy, and well charred chicken on the grill; it just takes a little know-how.
The first step is to pound the breasts to a 1/2-inch thickness so that they cook through evenly. This eliminates the thin tapered end of the chicken breast turning leathery by the time the thick end is cooked. Second, soaking the chicken for 30 minutes in a potent “brinerade” seasons it to help the chicken retain its moisture while cooking.
Here at Serious Eats, we usually prefer dry-brining protein over wet brining, since the salt of a dry brine helps the chicken retain moisture during cooking without pumping it up with excess water. Not only that, but we've demonstrated before that most of the flavors in a marinade do not penetrate far into meat. I still had good reason to reach for a well seasoned, deeply concentrated marinade here though, for the flavor it adds to the surface of the meat along with the enhanced browning it ensures. For this marinade, I mixed salt with water, honey, and just enough umami-rich fish sauce and soy sauce to add savory depth while echoing the flavor of the Caesar dressing.
I recommend marinating the chicken for at least 30 minutes, but it will be even more well seasoned if left to marinate overnight. (Since there are no acids in the marinade, there’s no risk of denaturing the protein with a lengthy time in the marinade.)
Right before grilling, it's best to coat the chicken in a little oil to prevent the meat from sticking to the grill grate, and to cook it over a hot fire to further deliver deep browning quickly, before the interior has a chance to dry out.
Swap the Croutons for Grilled Baguette SlicesThis switch was a no-brainer—as long as I'm grilling, I might as well make grilled "croutons" instead of making or buying more traditional toasted croutons. Thin slices of a baguette toast up quickly on the grill.
The char of the grill isn't the only way to add flavor here. I also rub the bread with garlic when it's just hot off the grill. The garlic melts into the bread when you do this, adding incredible flavor. I’m a firm believer that every element of a salad should be seasoned, so don’t forget to lightly sprinkle salt and freshly ground black pepper over the grilled “croutons” as well.
You can use the grilled bread for scooping up the lettuce while eating, or crumble the pieces over your salad before tucking into it.
Quickly Char the RomaineIn my experience, lettuces, especially sturdy ones like romaine, are wonderful when grilled. Romaine lettuce leaves soften slightly at their centers and char beautifully at their tips when grilled properly while still retaining some structure. Their mildly bitter char is a fine counterpart to the savory rich Caesar dressing.
The key is to avoid limp, soggy lettuce. To ensure the romaine retains some crisp texture and doesn’t whither, use just the firm, compact romaine hearts for grilling, halve them through their core, and grill cut side down over a hot fire so they pick up char fast before wilting.
I've also found that brushing the romaine heart halves with a small portion of the Caesar dressing blended with additional oil prevents the leaves from sticking to the grill while also seasoning the lettuce. Make sure to paint the dressing into the crevices between the leaves, so that while the lettuce caramelizes slightly on the exterior, there is still a small amount of warm creamy dressing within.
I love to serve this grilled Caesar salad in a rustic, deconstructed presentation, similar to a wedge salad: I leave the halved romaine hearts intact, to highlight the char on the leaves, and shingle thin chicken slices over top, with a few of the grilled baguette slices on the side. Drizzle it all with more dressing, and don't forget to serve it with the charred lemon halves— the charred lemon is not only gorgeous but adds a nice final pop of acidity to the salad. It’s a hearty knife and fork salad that has savory Caesar flavor and char in every bite.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteFor the Chicken: Place 1 chicken breast in a resealable plastic bag or between two pieces of plastic wrap. Using a meat pounder, rolling pin, or small skillet, pound chicken breast into an even thickness, about 3/4 inch thick. Repeat with the remaining 3 breasts.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteIn a large bowl, whisk fish sauce, water, soy sauce, honey, salt, and pepper together. Add chicken breasts and turn to coat evenly. Refrigerate for 30 minutes or up to 12 hours.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteFor a Charcoal Grill: Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteFor a Gas Grill: Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
Remove chicken from brine, letting excess drip off (do not pat dry), then brush with oil as needed until evenly coated. Clean and oil the cooking grate. Place chicken, skin side down, on grill and cook (over coals if using charcoal or covered if using gas) until chicken develops dark grill marks, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip, and continue to cook until chicken registers 155℉ (68℃, 3 to 5 minutes longer. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and tent with aluminum foil while preparing the salad.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteFor the Salad: Transfer 2 tablespoons of the prepared Caesar dressing to a small bowl and whisk with 2 tablespoons (30ml) oil.Brush bread with remaining 2 tablespoons (30ml) oil and grill (over coals if using charcoal), uncovered, until browned on both sides, about 1 minute per side. Transfer to a serving platter or individual plates and rub all over with the garlic clove and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteBrush the cut sides of romaine halves with reserved oil and dressing mixture; place half of romaine, cut side down, on grill (over coals if using charcoal). Grill, uncovered, until lightly charred, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to the platter or plates with the bread. Repeat with the remaining romaine heart halves. Grill the lemons cut side down until lightly charred, about 1 minute and transfer to the platter or plates.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteSlice the chicken thin and arrange with the grilled romaine. Drizzle the romaine and chicken with the remaining dressing. Sprinkle with Parmesan. Serve with the grilled lemon halves for squeezing over the salad.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteSpecial EquipmentCharcoal or gas grill
Make-Ahead and Storage
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaAromatic and tangy, with juicy chunks of simmered ripe tomato and a distinctive earthy, minerally aroma from fresh curry leaves, this thick tomato chutney is a condiment I always keep on hand to serve with biriyani, rice, dal, grilled chicken, and more. In South Asia, chutneys are often made very spicy so that a tablespoon or two per person is sufficient to add welcome heat to a meal. Rather than being added to dishes, it's on the table with most meals, so diners can help themselves to more if they like.
My favorite style of tomato chutney is Hyderabadi tomato-curry leaf chutney. I was first introduced to it when I was 14 years old, after my family moved back to Hyderabad, India from Canada for my father’s job. I had never been to this historically Muslim city in the northern tip of south India before, and I was a bit of a foreigner with my Canadian accent. Still, a Hyderabadi Muslim girl, Ayesha, befriended me at school. We ate lunch together every day sitting cross legged on the playground. While I unpacked my sandwich, Ayesha opened her tiffin box filled with a traditional Muslim school lunch—shami kebabs, chapatis, a sauced vegetable dish, and tomato–curry leaf chutney. The deep red condiment with its green flecks of chiles and curry leaves was intoxicatingly aromatic.
While I never got to try Ayesha’s chutney, I’d watch her enjoy the fragrant condiment, picking out the leaves one by one and leaving them on the ground beside her lunchbox. Every time we got up to go back to class I was amused by the circle of leaves she always left behind. I thought it was a shame that she never ate the chutney’s curry leaves, which gave it a distinctive aroma and flavor. I loved the smell of curry leaves and enjoyed them in other dishes that my mother cooked, like gajarachi koshimbir, carrot slaw with mustard seeds and curry leaves.
It wasn’t until several years after high school that I finally tasted Hyderabadi-style tomato–curry leaf chutney, and it was everything I had dreamed it would be. Tomato–curry leaf chutney is frequently seen on a Hyderabadi Muslim plate, often alongside chapatis, dal, rice, meat, and vegetables. Hyderabad's rich history and the influence of both Northern Indian and Southern Indian cuisines is reflected in its own unique cuisine.
Hyderabadi’s cuisine features dishes like kebabs and biryani, and ingredients like saffron, pistachio, and rose water, thanks to its Qutb–Shahi rulers, with roots in Turkey and Persia, who came to Southern India from the north of the country. Ingredients such as curry leaves, tamarind, and rice, which are native to Southern India, are also enjoyed in Hyderabad. And there are ingredients that came to India from the Americas via Portuguese explorers—chiles, tomatoes, and potatoes. All these ingredients, over generations, created a globally influenced cuisine unique to Hyderabad, and this influence is reflected in the city’s tomato–curry leaf chutney.
As an adult, I learned how to make the chutney myself from Bilkees Latif’s cookbook, The Essential Andhra Cookbook (part of the same Penguin series as my The Essential Marathi Cookbook). By this time, I was living in the U.S. and cooking for a living. With my professional culinary knowledge, I played with Latif’s recipe to make it my own and created a quick, easy version. Here are a few tips for how to make my tomato–curry leaf chutney at home.
Tips for Making My Tomato–Curry Leaf ChutneyUse plenty of fresh curry leaves and add them at different stages. To showcase my deep love for curry leaves, I call for 15 whole curry leaves—that’s more than Latif’s recipe and most other recipes call for in this style of chutney. It’s important to use fresh curry leaves, not dried, because dried leaves just don’t have the same intense flavor as the fresh do. Sautéing about half of the curry leaves with the other aromatics at the start of the recipe, then adding the remaining curry leaves after the tomatoes are finished cooking, intensifies the curry leaf flavor in the chutney.
While the tomatoes, chiles, curry leaves, mustard seeds, and asafoetida give the chutney more than enough flavor, I love to add ginger and garlic for even more savory flavor to balance the sweet stewed tomatoes.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaAdd asafoetida for assertive flavor. Asafoetida is a gum resin that drips off the roots of an herb called ferula asafoetida, a central Asian plant in the celery family. It is gathered and then ground into a powder. Nuggets of it used to be left in sacks of grain because bugs stayed away from its strong aroma. Cooks in India learned that its strong onion-garlic smell and flavor was a welcome addition in many dishes. In the Indian state of Maharashtra, where my family is from, asafoetida-mustard-turmeric is often considered the “holy trinity” of seasonings. My father didn't like asafoetida’s pungent aroma, so my mother never cooked with it when I was growing up. But as an adult I’ve grown to love its flavor and always use it when I make a mustard seed seasoning, like I do here in my tomato–curry leaf chutney.
Have your spices measured and ready before cooking. Heating the oil and cooking the spices and aromatics happens very quickly in this recipe, within minutes. Opening multiple jars of spices and measuring them out at the stove or even having many small bowls of spices ready to add to the pot, can be time-consuming and cumbersome, and lead to the oil burning. To ensure you don’t burn the spices or overheat the oil, you want the spices to be ready to add before you start heating it. I like to use an Indian spice box, and I recommend having one if you plan to make Indian recipes often. With the spice box, small portions of frequently used spices are at the ready, and the box can be opened for easy access while you wait for the oil to heat. Since the box only holds about a week’s worth of spices, they stay fresh but can be replenished when needed from the pantry.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaIf you do not have a spice box, don’t worry. There’s an easy solution: Measure out your spices onto two plates and keep them by the stove. On one plate, put mustard seeds, turmeric, and asafoetida, about an inch apart; on the second, place the grated garlic and ginger, sliced chiles/chili powder, and seven curry leaves, also one inch apart. This way, when it's time to add each ingredient, it'll be ready to go.
Use in-season tomatoes. The flavor of sweet, in-season tomatoes is incomparable, and I recommend using them here. Cooking the tomatoes down into a jammy mixture further sweetens their flavor to contrast the spices, aromatics, and fresh chiles. The result is a tomato chutney that is sweet, savory, and spicy.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaHow to Serve Tomato–Curry Leaf ChutneyYou can of course serve this chutney with Hyderabadi dishes like biryani or baghara baingan (Indian eggplant in a rich cashew nut and spice sauce) or dishes from other parts of India such as hot white rice, chapatis, sautéed vegetables, and dal. But it’s also great as a burger topping, paired with grilled chicken, or added to a pasta sauce. I enjoy it dolloped on goat cheese and a cracker, with a bit of quince paste for contrast.
In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat until shimmering, about 1 minute. Keep a lid/screen handy.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaReduce heat to low and test the oil with one mustard seed. If it pops right away, the oil is ready for the spices; if not, return heat to medium-high for 1 additional minute and retest. When ready, quickly add the remaining mustard seeds to the saucepan and cover quickly with the lid/screen. The mustard seeds will pop, making a sound like popping corn for about 30 seconds.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaOnce the popping reduces, uncover the pan and add turmeric, stir briefly, then add asafoetida.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaTurn the heat up to medium and stir in Thai chiles, garlic, and ginger. If using red chili powder, stir it in after the garlic and ginger. Cook until mixture is aromatic but garlic is not browning yet, 15 to 30 seconds. Add 7 curry leaves and stir to combine with the other ingredients.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaStir the tomatoes into the spiced oil and cook, stirring occasionally until the tomatoes begin to break down and start to release their juices, 8 to 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaPour the reserved tomato juices into the pan. Stir in the salt and ground cumin, if using. Cook chutney, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has evaporated and the tomato pieces have softened and reduced in size, 30 to 35 minutes. At this stage the chutney should be spreadable, like a compote. Season with salt to taste. Add the remaining 8 curry leaves and remove from heat. Stir to mix the curry leaves into the hot chutney to release their flavor. Cool the chutney to room temperature before serving.
Special EquipmentMedium saucepan with lid or splatter screen
NotesThis recipe can be easily doubled.
Asafoetida can be found at most Indian grocers. It’s also available to purchase online; Burlap and Barrel and Amazon are two sources. I recommend the powder sold in small jars or plastic containers because they hold the aroma. You will smell an onion-garlic aroma from the asafoetida when you open the container. Keep it tightly shut between uses, otherwise the smell will pervade your entire kitchen. While it adds a distinct assertive garlic and onion–like flavor to the chutney, you can omit it if unavailable, but the chutney will be less aromatic.
Use fresh curry leaves, not dried. The dried ones do not have the intense flavor of the fresh. They are usually available at Indian stores.
Arbol chiles can be substituted for Thai bird chiles.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe chutney can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 2 months. It can be enjoyed cold from the refrigerator or at room temperature.
Serious Eats / UnsplashOne day in the spring of 2003—before Facebook, Instagram, TikTok, and the iPhone, and around the same time that the first podcasts came to be—I was listening to one of my favorite radio shows, The Next Big Thing, which aired on WNYC and was syndicated by Public Radio International from 2000 to 2005. When they got to a segment called "What’s Your Word?" in which listeners pitched words they thought should be in the dictionary to the show’s host, Dean Olsher, and lexicographer and Wordnik founder Erin McKean (who at the time was an editor at the New Oxford American Dictionary and Verbatim), I called in with two food-related words that I thought would be sure hits: "breastaurant" and "hangry."
History would prove me right about one of the words, but at the time, Olsher and McKean weren’t sold. I caught up with the two of them in May of 2024—21 years after the segment first aired on May 9, 2003—to get their reflections on my words. We discussed the very slow and then very quick rise of “hangry,” which has been around since at least the 1910s, but didn’t reach cultural saturation until around 2015 and only made it into the Oxford English Dictionary in 2018, but can now be found printed on socks, T-shirts, tote bags, and (of course) in magazines, newspapers, and websites, with no explanation needed. Our discussion of the two words also provides a fascinating (to this particular word geek, anyway) look behind the curtain at the often unpredictable way some words climb into regular, dictionary-approved usage and some don't.
McKean also makes the excellent point that print dictionaries have a motive to limit their lexicon at least in part because of the physical nature of the product—in the digital age, there's no need for such limits, and language can evolve much more quickly. Philosophy of language aside, poring through the archives of The Next Big Thing to look back at past predictions with the benefit of hindsight was a fun exercise, which I highly recommend when you have some time to spare.
Skip to minute 37:55 in the episode "It’s Not Over" on the WNYC website to listen to the full May 9, 2003 “What’s Your Word?” segment or to 43:25 for just my bit, or read on for the transcript of my call, then continue below for my recent Q&A with McKean and Olsher.
Pitching Hangry: Full 2003 TranscriptDean: Hi, who's this?
Megan: This is Megan Steintrager.
Dean: Megan, where are you calling from?
Megan: I am actually calling from Yonkers, where I work, and I live in New York City.
Dean: And you have a word for us?
Megan: I do. My word is "breastaurant." [Erin and Dean laugh]
Dean: Like Hooters? Would Hooters be a breastaurant?
Megan: Yep, you got it right away. And my mother actually came up with this word, which I think is pretty funny. She was just driving by and she said, “Have you kids ever been to that breastaurant?” We were all floored.
Dean: Is it spelled “b-r-e-s” or “b-r-e-a-s”?
Megan: I spell it “b-r-e-a-s.” I actually have another word if I can pitch that too.
Erin: What’s the other one?
Dean: Go for it!
Megan: It kind of ties into breastaurant.
Erin: Please don't tell me it’s like the male chain…
Megan: [Interrupts Erin] No, no, no, no. It's, uh, “hangry.”
Erin: Hangry?
Megan: Hangry.
Erin: When you’re so hungry, you're just ready to rip someone's head off?
Megan: Exactly! It comes up a lot on road trips, you know, when you can't find anywhere to eat.
Dean: You’re getting so hangry…
Megan: Or you're stuck in a meeting that's going through lunch.
Erin: Or that uncomfortable early evening time, when it's not time for dinner yet, yet lunch was so very far away.
Megan: Right, yes. I had one boyfriend who always wanted to go out for a drink before dinner and so I would be, like, secretly having a meal before we went out so that I didn't become hangry.
Dean: I've totally done that. I'm guessing that Megan's gonna have an easier time with “breastaurant” than with “hangry,” right?
Erin: I’m thinking that there's already a method for making words that mean anger connected to something. We have “desk rage,” and “computer rage,” and “road rage,” and “plane rage.”
Megan: [sounding disappointed] Right. So it’d be “hunger rage.”
Erin: Yeah.
Megan: [sounding defeated and resigned] Yeah.
Dean: Well listen, Megan, thank you very much.
Megan: Thank you.
Dean: Okay.
Megan: All right.
Dean: Be well.
Megan: Bye.
Dean Olsher and Erin McKean Share Their Thoughts on Hangry in 2024As I mentioned above, I recently caught up with Olsher and McKean via email to ask them why they were so sure that “hangry” wouldn’t be the huge success it’s become. They were great sports about it. Read on for the details.
Megan: Could you give a little history/background of the “What’s Your Word?” segment you hosted on the Next Big Thing?
Erin: I went back and checked my email (I'm a digital packrat, I keep everything) and it looks like I got an email from Dean Olsher in January of 2002. At that point I'd been working for Oxford University Press for about a year and a half or so. He wanted to do “something language related” for the show, and we had a call and batted around some ideas. The first segment aired in April of 2002, I think.
Megan: When you heard my pitch of “hangry,” what was it that made you think it wouldn’t take off? Could you speculate on why you had the original reaction you had to my pitch?
Erin: I think I'm going to have to borrow a famous reply of Samuel Johnson's here and say, "Ignorance, madam, pure ignorance." One of the things I love about working with words is that sometimes we just don't know why one word succeeds and another fails, or why a word has a moment of popularity and then falls from favor.
When I was working on traditional dictionaries, our big constraint was the size of the printed book—so we were more in a mode of looking for reasons NOT to include a word.
Dean: Wow, we really blew it on this one, didn't we? I'm surprised that I didn't embrace the word wholeheartedly, because it makes me think of a funny memory from college. During my junior year in France, I led an English conversation group at the American Library in town. One day a guy said: "When I wake up in the morning, I am very angry, and I hit a lot." The rest of us in the room exchanged worried glances until we realized that he was hungry and ate a lot.
Megan: What is it about “hangry” that you think has caught on?
Erin: In retrospect, I think I underestimated how fun it is to say. It lends itself to exaggeration…"I'm hangggggggry."
Megan: According to my research the earliest known use of hangry was in 1910. Why do you think the word didn’t take off sooner, or even when I pitched it, and then became so ubiquitous?
Erin: It's so hard to say—this is absolutely a word that could have been used more in speech and not made it into print (it's very informal). And the kinds of people who got their writing printed were for a long time the kind of people who almost always had enough to eat, or who weren't expected to be on diets. So perhaps they just didn't ever get hangry. The citations in the OED are interesting in that of the five citations; two are about animals, and one is using the word as an example of contraction; only two are about people, and both of those are after 2000.
Megan: What do you think about hangry being added to the OED in 2018?
Erin: I'm all for it! I believe every word deserves a place in the dictionary—the dictionary I work on now, Wordnik, has included 'hangry' since at least Sept 2015, according to the Wayback Machine.
Megan: Are there other food words you can remember that you called or didn’t call over the years?
Erin: None spring immediately to mind…
Dean: Well, this would only be a food word for zombies, but Erin once assigned some arcane words to John Linnell to work into a They Might Be Giants song. That's how he ended up writing "Contrecoup," which describes a type of brain injury.
Megan: Any thoughts on the next hangry? I.e. what are some food words that are bubbling under the surface now and might take off in 10 or 20 years?
Erin: I saved a citation for “nutritionism” the other day, meaning "the reduction of food to its macro- and micro-nutritional components" (from the always interesting "Second Breakfast" newsletter). I'm also seeing a lot of references to "food noise" (constant intrusive thoughts about food), especially since semaglutide drugs seem to turn them off.
Korean food terms seem to be getting more popular, from dishes such as tteokbokki, ingredients like gochujang, and practices like mukbang videos.
I'm also amused by "batchie" or "batch brew"—coffee brewed in large batches, as opposed to single-serving pour-overs. Everything old is new again…
Megan: Now for the other word I pitched: What do you think today about “breastaurant?” Why hasn’t it taken off?
Erin: I think because it mostly refers to one well-known chain, so…people just would use the name of the chain. :) We do include it in Wordnik, though, and have since 2015, with a number of citations. So I wouldn't call it a failure, it's just not a high-frequency word.
Dean: To be honest, while breastaurant did feel like a contender 20+ years ago, I think we're going to have to wait for the Zeitgeist to come around again on that one.
Anything else you’d like Serious Eats readers to know about your work today?
Erin: I never really liked being the bouncer at the dictionary nightclub...I want to let all the words in to dance! These days I run Wordnik, a nonprofit, online English dictionary where our goal is to include all the words of English—including the 52% of English words that aren't included in traditional dictionaries. One of the ways people can support the project is by adopting their favorite words—I checked and "hangry" and "breastaurant" are both available. :)
Dean: Nowadays I'm a music therapist. And I recently released my debut album! Letters of Transit is at deanolsher.bandcamp.com.
Serious Eats / Julia EstradaThe typical Greek flavorings for chicken are so well matched to the ingredient that they feel almost elemental, fixed in our culinary firmament by taste memories accumulated over the course of hundreds of cookouts. Lemon, garlic, oregano, red wine vinegar—these are ingredients many of us now associate with juicy, perfectly charred chicken.
Perhaps I'm guilty of universalizing my culinary upbringing. In any case, all of us at Serious Eats are big fans of the pairing of poultry with Greek ingredients. Here are several Greek and Greek-inspired recipes that capitalize on these flavors, with occasional help from other Greek staples like spinach, tart, creamy feta, and fresh dill.
Creamy Garlic Chicken Spanakopita SkilletSerious Eats / Morgan EisenbergThe classic Greek spinach-and-phyllo pie is morphed into a one-pan meal with the addition of butter-fried chicken and a garlicky béchamel. Think spanakopita, but make it a pot pie.
Greek-Style Rice Pilaf With Chicken ThighsSerious Eats / Yasmin FahrThis one-pan meal starts with cooking chicken thighs until well browned. Onion and garlic are cooked in the rendered fat, and rice is briefly toasted. Finally, artichoke hearts and stock are added, and the thighs are rested on top. A 15-minute simmer and dinner is ready. A last-minute addition of crumbled feta and lemon make the dish pop.
Avgolemono Soup (Greek Lemon-Egg Chicken Soup)Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt Glaze, Food Stylist: Margaret Monroe Dickey, Prop Stylist: Claire SpollenThis tangy and creamy chicken soup is a Greek classic for a reason. Chicken breast is slowly poached to perfection in homemade broth, followed by the addition of rice or orzo. Finally, the soup is thickened with a combination of beaten eggs and lemon juice. The poached chicken is returned to the pot, and the soup is garnished with dill.
Chicken Souvlaki With Tzatziki Sauce and Greek SaladSerious Eats / Julia EstradaFor her souvlaki recipe, Yvonne Ruperti whips up a vinaigrette made with lemon, red wine vinegar, and fresh oregano that does double duty as both chicken marinade and salad dressing. Sandwiched in flatbread, the combination of Greek salad, creamy tzatziki, and charred chunks of grilled chicken is hard to beat.
Greek-Style Grilled Chicken With Oregano, Garlic, Lemon, and Olive OilSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltButterflying a whole bird and slathering it with a mixture of salt, pepper, olive oil, garlic, lemon juice, and lemon zest is the key to getting grilled Greek-style chicken that is flavorful, crisp-skinned, and perfectly cooked. Once carved into pieces, the chicken is drizzled with more of the garlicky vinaigrette. Also check out Kenji's quicker Cornish hen version of this grilled chicken recipe, which includes tzatziki, grilled zucchini, and a salad.
Roasted Garlic and Feta Chicken SausagesSerious Eats / Joshua BouselHere, Joshua Bousel captures all the salient flavors of Greek poultry cookery in sausage form: lemon, red wine vinegar, garlic, and oregano are combined with ground chicken and some tangy feta cheese for good measure. The garlic is roasted first, which mellows its bite and helps it meld into the rest of the sausage filling.
Serious Eats / Melati CitrawirejaComprised of skinny wheat or egg noodles stir-fried with garlic, shallots, vegetables, eggs, and meat or seafood, mie goreng is one of Indonesia’s most well-known dishes. The sweet, salty noodles are widely eaten across the Indonesian archipelago, with variations aplenty based on region and individual preference. Across the country, you’ll find renditions like mie goreng sapi (stir-fried noodles with beef) and kwetiau goreng jawa (Javanese stir-fried noodles prepared with rice noodles). In northern Indonesia, there’s mie goreng Aceh, a dish of thicker noodles with a spicy, curry-like flavor that’s named for the province it comes from. Mie goreng is also eaten in other parts of Southeast Asia, like Singapore and Malaysia.
It’s likely that mie goreng was inspired by fried noodles like chow mein that Chinese immigrants brought over during the 18th century, when many emigrated to Indonesia for opportunities in the mining industry. Though chow mein is typically made with light and dark soy sauces, Indonesian mie goreng calls for kecap manis, a thick, sweet soy sauce essential to many Indonesian dishes.
The ingredients in mie goreng can vary. If you order mie goreng at a warung (roadside food stall), you may get a simple dish of noodles, eggs, and nothing else. Typically, vegetables like carrots and cabbage are used. However, depending on the cook’s personal preference and market availability, you may find versions with bean sprouts, mustard greens, or spinach. Because Indonesia is a mostly Muslim country, mie goreng doesn’t usually contain pork. The most popular protein choices are chicken and shrimp, but my family enjoys fish- or beef-balls too. The noodles are always served with fried shallots and crunchy shrimp crackers, which may just be my favorite part.
Since I live in the U.S. and can’t just pop into a warung to get my mie goreng fix, I make it at home. Taking inspiration from mie goreng Jawa (Javanese fried noodles), I season my noodles with bumbu dasar putih (a basic white spice paste that’s used as a foundation in many Indonesian dishes), kecap manis, and soy sauce. As for the other ingredients, it all depends on what I find at the market or have in my kitchen.
Although I can’t achieve proper “wok hei” (a Cantonese term used to describe the smoky, charred finish of a stir-fried dish) at home, I do follow a few guidelines to avoid a wok full of steamed, soggy noodles: I cook smaller portions at a time to avoid overcrowding the pan, and monitor the heat rigorously, adjusting the burner as needed so there is a constant sizzle. The result? Fragrant stir-fried noodles with tender vegetables that remind me of the mie goreng I used to enjoy at roadside stalls in Indonesia. Served with fried shallots, sambal oelek, and crisp shrimp crackers, mie goreng is a satisfying taste of home.
Serious Eats / Melati CitrawirejaBring a medium pot of water to boil. Add the noodles and cook for 1 minute less than package directions; the noodles should retain a slight chew and not be fully cooked. Using a colander, drain immediately and rinse with cold running water to stop the cooking process. Shake the colander well, allowing any excess water to drip off.
Serious Eats / Melati CitrawirejaIn a large bowl, toss noodles with 2 tablespoons kecap manis along with soy sauce to evenly coat.
Serious Eats / Melati CitrawirejaIn a large wok or nonstick skillet, heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add the shallot and garlic, and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, 15 to 30 seconds.
Serious Eats / Melati CitrawirejaIncrease heat to medium-high and add the carrot, onion, salt, and pepper. Stir frequently, and cook until onion is translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the cabbage, and stir-fry until tender, 2 to 4 minutes.
Serious Eats / Melati CitrawirejaAdd seasoned noodles and cook, tossing frequently, until heated through, 2 to 3 minutes. Taste and add 1 tablespoon kecap manis, if desired. Add scallions and stir through.
Serious Eats / Melati CitrawirejaFor Serving: Divide noodles among 2 plates and sprinkle with fried shallots. Serve hot with acar timun, sambal, and shrimp crackers, if desired.
Serious Eats / Melati CitrawirejaSpecial EquipmentLarge wok or skillet
NotesI use Chinese wheat noodles to make mie goreng but you can use egg noodles or even the noodles from instant noodle packages. You can find fresh noodles in the refrigerated sections at Asian markets. Thin wonton noodles, Hong Kongstyle pan-fried noodles (chow mein), and lo mein all work great! If par-cooked, simply rinse with cold water to loosen the strands and remove any clumps. Dried Japanese noodles called chuka soba or Chinese chow mein noodles are available at most mainstream supermarkets. Ramen noodles work as well. Gluten-free rice noodles work too, and this dish is called bihun goreng.
Don’t overcrowd your pan while cooking. The ingredients won’t cook evenly and you won’t achieve the “wok hei” so sought after in stir-fried dishes. If you only have a small wok or pan, divide the ingredients in half and make one serving at a time.
If you have bumbu dasar putih (Indonesian white spice paste), substitute the shallot and garlic with 2 tablespoons of this paste.
Make-Ahead and StorageMie goreng can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days.
Serious Eats / Brian KopinskiBefore my mom was my mom, she biked around Saigon making deliveries for her parents’ tea roasting business. They specialized in jasmine tea and after my parents and I immigrated to the United States, they sent us carefully packaged bags of jasmine tea that would fill our tiny apartment with the most delicate floral aroma. While my grandparents’ tea business has since closed, tea is still a huge part of my life. Every day starts with Bellocq Breakfast with milk and honey and ends with Celestial Seasonings Sleepytime—bless that little bear!
When I started building out my tea collection at home, I discovered the tea world can be just as nuanced as the coffee world with its variety of water temperatures and brew times—not to mention the seemingly infinite array of blends and flavors. While this list is by no means exhaustive, we spoke to staff and experts to get 18 picks that would make worthy additions to your tea cabinet. We have flavorful bagged blends for the emerging tea enthusiast and strong, complex offerings for the aficionados in the crowd— in other words, a little bit of something for everyone.
Some of Our Favorite Teas, at a GlanceBlack Teas* Serengeti Kenyan Safari Breakfast Black Tea * Spirit Tea Ambrosia Tea * Bigelow Constant Comment Black Tea
Herbal Teas* Smith Teamaker Rooibos - Meadow No. 67 * Teapigs Liquorice & Peppermint Tea * Mem Tea Lemon Chamomile Tea
Green Teas* OSULLOC Honey Pear Tea * Harney & Sons Citron Green Tea
Other Teas* Dobrá Tea Honey Oolong * Tea Drunk Lin Cang Dong Nong Pu Er
What We LearnedWhat Is Tea?While most of us may hear “tea” and think “anything you can soak in hot water,” tea is traditionally understood to come from the plant Camellia sinensis. The many varieties of this plant provide us with our beloved white, green, oolong, and black teas. When the leaves are picked, they undergo an oxidation process, deepening their aroma, flavor, and strength. The degree of oxidation depends on the type of tea and its intended flavor profile. For example, white teas aren’t allowed to oxidize too much since the flavor is meant to be more delicate and floral. Conversely, black teas are often fully oxidized, which results in a rich, bold flavor.
What about herbal teas, you ask? Those are technically tisanes—that is, herbs, spices, or other plants, such as mint, chamomile, rooibos, honeybush, or hibiscus (to name a few!) that can be brewed to impart their flavors and fragrances.
When picking out high-quality teas, Rishi Tea president Jeffrey Champeau says, “Tea is very much like wine. It has a character and a sense of place. I would seek out brands that can articulate that direct trade, that sense of place, and what that does for the flavor profile of the tea.”
What is Pu’Er Tea?In Chinese tea tradition, Pu’er is “true” black tea, and what Western tea drinkers know as black tea (English Breakfast, Assam, or Keemun) is actually red tea. For our guide, we’ll use black tea and Pu’er, respectively. Pu’er is a tea that undergoes fermentation, further intensifying its earth flavor. These teas often come pressed into a brick or cake, and change in flavor over time as you chip away bits of tea for each brew. Since the process is more time and labor intensive than creating a sachet, good quality pu’er is often quite pricey.
What You Need to Brew a Good Cup of TeaThe joy of tea is that it can be enjoyed by anyone, anywhere, with nearly any flavor preference. All you really need are these four critical components: hot water, a vessel, a strainer, and the tea of your choice. Whether sitting at a ceremonial tea table or balancing a thermos mountainside, tea is best enjoyed in whatever vessel works best for you.
But the number one tip that all tea experts we spoke to agree on? Getting water temperature right. Amber Jackson, owner of The Black Leaf Tea & Culture Shop in Providence, RI, puts it best: “Temperature! If the blend is mostly tea leaves, you want to be sure that you're steeping at the right temperature. Scorching the tea leaves can cause the tea to be bitter.” For tea drinkers looking to get more technical about the tea brewing process, there’s an entire world of tools and gadgets (both new and traditional) that you can explore to bring out the best flavors from your teas. Here are a few we recommend:
Different teas require different brewing temperatures (more on that later). The Breville Smart Kettle Luxe topped our electric kettle review because of its accurate preset temperatures and for its speedy heating times.
I’m a big fan of basket tea infusers, which steep tea leaves while keeping them contained. When we tested tea infusers, the Fenshine Stainless Steel Tea Infuser was our top basket infuser pick. Its fine mesh contained even the smallest tea bits, and the folding handles make it a drawer-friendly model.
While this mug is a top contender in our coffee mug review, there’s no reason not to recommend it for tea drinking. Sometimes, you want a giant mug full of your favorite tea, and this stylish update to the classic diner mug hits the mark. It has a flat handle for your thumb, a sturdy base that keeps your brew warm, and a thinner lip for smooth sipping.
In Chinese tea traditions, slowing down to enjoy the complexities of a tea happens through gong fu, a layered process designed to bring out the full range of flavors in a tea. This method utilizes a gaiwan: a vessel consisting of a cup, a lid, and a saucer. You brew the tea directly in the cup, then use the lid to hold back the leaves as you serve the tea. In our tea gear essentials guide, we recommend the Moyishi Chinese Gaiwan, which is simple, easy to use, and affordable. “It’s like a stick-shift car vs. an automatic car,” says Shunan Teng, owner of Tea Drunk, where tea-experts-to-be can learn every nuance about ceremonial tea experiences. “How fast we can separate water and tea is crucial to managing the finesse of time in brewing tea. For a skilled brewer, there’s no better way to control the separation of water and tea than with a gaiwan.”
While I tend to eyeball a spoonful of tea leaves for my morning brews, for best results weigh your tea leaves. While you might think to reach for your standard kitchen scale, it likely won’t be able to register the featherlight weights of a few scoops of tea leaves. In this instance (and when measuring coffee, too), we recommend this precision OXO model; it’s fast, accurate, and easy to use.
Do Different Teas Need to Be Brewed Differently?Serious Eats / Vicky WasikJust like wines and coffee, there are a myriad of different methods to brew a great cup of tea. The beauty of tea is that it’s very forgiving, but there are nuances in flavor and fragrance that are easily missed if a tea is over-steeped or over-brewed. Some teas, such as delicate white or green varietals, steeping for too long or in water that’s too hot often leads to a brew that’s overpowered by the bitter tannins in the leaves. However, other teas, such as herbals, need piping hot boiling water to really unlock their flavors.
While most loose leaf tea brands include directions in their instructions, we’ve put together a handy little table as a general guide.
Our Favorite TeasBoisterous Black Teas For those especially groggy mornings, Serengeti Kenyan Safari Breakfast Black Tea helps you get going. This tea is extremely smooth, with fruity tones and a hint of malt unique to Kenya’s Nandi region where this tea is grown and harvested. It can be enjoyed on its own or with a bit of milk and honey.
Key Specs Tea variety: Black * Brew temperature: 215°F * Steep time: 3–5 minutes * Format:* Loose-leaf
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangBug-bitten leaves never tasted so good—yes, you read that right. Spirit Tea Ambrosia Tea is made from black tea leaves grown in Santikhiri, Thailand. When jassid bugs bite the leaves, the plant releases a scent that’s captured when the leaves are picked. The result is a subtle tea with mead notes and hints of stone fruit, perfect for sipping when cracking open a new book or taking a break mid-hike.
Key Specs Tea variety: Black * Brew temperature: 205°F * Steep time: 3 minutes * Format:* Loose-leaf
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangFor the tea enthusiasts who love a beautifully executed signature blend, Bellocq Breakfast and Bellocq Earl Grey won’t disappoint. The Bellocq Breakfast is a perfectly smooth yet bright black tea that brings notes of malt and honey, while the Earl Grey is a lovely balance of fragrance and flavor with blue cornflowers and just a hint of Sicilian bergamot. A truly luxurious tea brand, Bellocq also carries the White Wedding Tea, an elegant, romantic tea full of delicate floral notes that senior commerce editor Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm received as a wedding gift.
Key Specs Tea variety: Black * Brew temperature: 195°F * Steep time: 4–6 minutes * Format:* Loose-leaf
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangA well-balanced chai blend is hard to come by and many concentrates in the market can be too cloyingly sweet. Commerce editor Rochelle Bilow favors Art of Tea Tali’s Masala Chai, which she’s convinced has superpowers—at least when it comes to the mid-morning slump. She shares, “It's nicely spiced, without too much cinnamon, and really shines with a generous pour of steamed milk.” The blend has all the right components for a stellar homemade chai: cardamon, cinnamon, ginger, and cloves mixed into a base of bold Assam tea. If you’re looking for a caffeine-free chai blend, we also like Flowerhead Tea Rooibos Chai Kit.
Key Specs Tea variety: Black * Brew temperature: 206°F * Steep time: 3–6 minutes * Format:* Loose-leaf
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangA distant cousin to Earl Grey but with a bit more pizazz, Bigelow Constant Comment Black Teabrings a gentle infusion of orange rind combined with a (secret!) blend of sweet spices. It’s a go-to for commerce editor Grace Kelly, who says, “It's cozy, comforting, and indulgent when hit with a splash of whole milk and a teaspoon of sugar.” To this day, only Bigelow family members know the full recipe, but anyone can enjoy it.
Key Specs Tea variety: Black * Brew temperature: 212°F * Steep time: 2–4 minutes * Format:* Bagged
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangWith a whopping three types of cinnamon in this tea blend in addition to orange peel, and cloves, Harney & Sons Classic Hot Cinnamon Spice Tea rates, unsurprisingly, high for “aroma” on the official Harney tea rating. Riddley, who lovingly calls this tea “Big Red gum in tea form,” loves to dunk a cookie or biscotti in this tea, and even got her parents hooked on this blend.
Key Specs Tea variety: Black * Brew temperature: 212°F * Steep time: 5 minutes * Format:* Bagged
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangIf you’ve ever wondered what hot chocolate might taste like as a tea, Black Leaf Tea CocoBae is your answer. The blend is super comforting without the sweetness you’d get with hot cocoa, which makes it a great alternative if you want something chocolate-related that’s low in sugar. Cacao nibs bring a nutty richness to the brew.
Key Specs Tea variety: Black * Brew temperature: 212°F * Steep time: 4–5 minutes * Format:* Loose-leaf
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangDelectable Herbal Teas For those who like a non-caffeinated afternoon treat, the Smith Teamaker Rooibos - Meadow No. 67 is Riddley's go-to pick: “It's delicious. It's calming. It's packed with whole leaves and flowers that, when infused, look truly stunning.”
Key Specs Tea variety: Rooibos * Brew temperature: 212°F * Steep time: 5 minutes * Format:* Loose-leaf and bagged
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangRecommended by not just one, but two staff members, the Teapigs Liquorice & Peppermint Tea is naturally sweet thanks to the licorice, making it a nice treat for when you want something simple and comforting but still fun. VP of commerce Taysha Murtaugh says, “It’s perfect for cold-weather months and helping curb my late-night sweet tooth since it's caffeine-free.”
Key Specs Tea variety: Herbal * Brew temperature: 212°F * Steep time: 3 minutes * Format:* Bagged
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangContrary to the tea’s name, there’s no lemon in the blend. The “lemon” actually stands for lemongrass, which lends its beautifully earthy tones to the final brew. Mingled together with chamomile buds and lavender flowers, this tea is the one I reach for if I’m ever reeling from a particularly heavy meal.
Key Specs Tea variety: Herbal * Brew temperature: 212°F * Steep time: 4 minutes * Format:* Loose-leaf
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangPleasantly botanical, this tea is a soothing balm when you’re feeling under the weather. Quince lends a bright sweetness to the brew while eucalyptus clears the airways. Even if you’re not fighting sinus discomfort, this tea is the epitome of a quiet, breezy moment. If you’re unsure about quince and eucalyptus, dip your toes into another delightfully fruity tea, Masha Tea Hibiscus, which is a little tart and tastes great iced.
Key Specs Tea variety: Herbal * Brew temperature: 200°F * Steep time: 5 minutes * Format:* Bagged
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangSoba, or buckwheat, is beautifully aromatic and smooth when its kernels are roasted, resulting in a caramelized and toasty brew reminiscent of Scotch. Naturally caffeine-free, the Kettl Nagano Soba Cha can be had morning, noon, or night, either on its own or with a splash of milk and a drizzle of honey. The roasted kernels make for a delicately delicious topping sprinkled on frosted cupcakes or iced scones. We can also vouch for other just as magical, roasty blends, like Uji Genmaimatcha (Sencha tea with toasted rice) or Jou Yanagi Houjicha (roasted Green tea).
Key Specs Tea variety: Herbal * Brew temperature: 200°F * Steep time: 2 minutes * Format:* Loose-leaf
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangFull-flower teas are as beautiful as they are tasty. For those who love a bit of a show with their cup of tea, this one does the job. The dried chrysanthemum flower springs into a beautiful, golden bloom upon contact with water, filling your cup with fragrance and gently wafting petals.
Key Specs Tea variety: Herbal * Brew temperature: 200°F * Steep time: 3 minutes * Format:* Loose-leaf
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangGreen Teas Korean tea company OSULLOC grows its tea in the volcanic environment of Korea’s Jeju Island and makes beautiful blends from ingredients such as camelia, pineapple, rose petals, or tangerine. Serious Eats’ executive editorial director Tess Koman is particularly fond of their Honey Pear blend. “Honey Pear has my heart,” she says. “It’s just lovely from first sip to last and I always look forward to steeping it.” She especially appreciates that it strikes a perfect balance between flora and dulcet.
Key Specs Tea variety: Green * Brew temperature: 158°F * Steep time: 1.5 minutes * Format:* Bagged
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangCommerce editor Grace Kelly swears by this whole-leaf tea to brighten up a gloomy day. She especially appreciates the light citron note (think candied lemon peel), giving the tea a lively and fresh flavor without being overpowering.
Key Specs Tea variety: Green * Brew temperature: 212°F * Steep time: 3 minutes * Format:* Loose-leaf and bagged
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangOther Teas Oolong is semi-oxidized with an earthy and malty quality that sits between green and black tea. The Dobrá Tea Honey Oolong is an especially smooth variety thanks to the bug-bitten leaves (remember our bug friends from above?) that bring out notes of honey and plum.
Key Specs Tea variety: Oolong * Brew temperature: 212°F * Steep time: 1 minute * Format:* Loose-leaf
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangFor more adventurous tea drinkers who want to bring the ceremonial tea experience home, this full-bodied Pu’Er is fruity and tannic with light floral notes. This tea continues to develop its flavors and become cleaner with age.
Key Specs Tea variety: Fermented black * Brew temperature: 195°F * Brewing instructions:* See guided tasting
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangFAQsWhat temperature is best for brewing tea?Optimal tea brewing temperatures vary from tea to tea. Green and white teas need a lower temperature (175° F to 180° F) so as to not become too bitter, while black teas and herbal tisanes need to be brewed closer to 212°F to capture their full flavor profiles.
Is loose-leaf tea better than bagged tea?While there’s nothing wrong with tossing a bag of tea into a mug of water to save time, it’s generally understood that loose-leaf teas are higher quality since they contain whole leaves as opposed to torn or crushed leaves. Whole leaves hold more flavor and body, which are released when brewed. However, plenty of tea brands today are challenging the stigma of bagged teas by offering high-quality sachets.
What is the best tea I can buy?The fuller the leaf, the better the quality. According to tea industry leaf gradings, the size and wholeness of the leaf will directly affect the flavor and clarity of the resulting brew. After higher-graded leaves are gathered and sold, what’s left are called “fannings,” or tiny bits of tea leaves that are then processed into bagged teas we might find on mainstream market shelves.
Are bagged teas bad?Not necessarily! While there’s a stigma around bagged teas as being “low-quality,” many tea producers and purveyors today put their high-quality teas and tea blends into sachets with convenience in mind for the consumer.
What are the benefits of tea?While tea has been consumed for medicinal purposes for centuries, recent research validates that certain teas have potential positive health effects, including cardiovascular health, metabolic benefits, and cancer prevention.
Why We’re the Experts * An Uong is a news and deals writer for Serious Eats. * Prior to this, she wrote numerous articles as a freelancer for the brand. * She consulted tea experts and sourced staff opinions to find teas for this piece. * She’s fond of a cup of Celestial Seasonings Sleepytime Tea to end the day.
Serious Eats / Diana ChistrugaCanned tomatoes find their way into some of our favorite recipes. From classic Italian red sauces to creamy, comforting soups and spicy curries, we reach for 28-ounce cans of whole peeled tomatoes throughout the year. Below, we've compiled some of our best recipes that use this essential pantry ingredient.
Here, we stuck with recipes that call for whole canned tomatoes (though some have a surprising amount of tomato paste too). Of course, there are many canned (and jarred) tomato products. For an overview of what's available and their best uses, see Kenji's primer on canned tomato types, as well as Yasmine's explainer on passata.
Quick and Easy Italian-American Red SauceFrom simmering meatballs and smothering chicken parmesan to dressing ziti and dunking calamari, this red sauce is endlessly versatile. Simmered with plenty of garlic, dried oregano, red pepper flakes, and basil, this foundational Italian-American sauce is simple to make, coming together in about 40 minutes. If you have time to tend a lazily bubbling pot, try Kenji's rich and complex slow-simmered red sauce too.
Chinese Scrambled Eggs With TomatoSerious Eats / Vicky WasikIn this recipe from Jenny Dorsey, canned tomatoes are cooked with scallion and ginger and seasoned with a little soy sauce and Shaoxing wine in this easy recipe. Scrambled egg and white pepper are then folded in, and the mixture is topped with sliced scallion greens. Served with white rice, this classic Chinese homestyle dish is satisfying as a lunch or light dinner, but we think it's one of the best breakfasts around.
Kafta bi Bandora (Palestinian Ground Meat Patties in Tomato Sauce)Serious Eats / Mai KakishKafta, a mixture of minced meat and spices, is an ancient preparation found across the Middle East, South Asia, and parts of Europe. Reem Kassis's recipe calls for fashioning the mixture into patties and roasting them until nicely browned, along with thick rounds of potato. The roasted patties and potatoes are then shingled on a baking dish with green bell pepper rings, and covered with a simple mixture of crushed tomato, garlic, and olive oil. The dish is returned to the oven and braised until bubbling and browned.
Oven-Roasted Tomato BruschettaSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThe key to out-of-season bruschetta: Drain a can of whole peeled tomatoes, lay them out on a sheet pan, season them with salt, drizzle some olive oil over them, and slow-roast them in a moderate oven for an hour. The result: tomatoes with a concentrated flavor and meaty texture. Once they're chopped, you'll forget they came from a can.
Pasta al Tonno (Pasta With Tomatoes and Tuna)Serious Eats / Diana ChistrugaThis simple weeknight pasta is a pantry home run. Dried pasta, olive oil, a can of tuna, and a can of whole peeled tomatoes gets you most of the way to dinner. A few cloves of garlic and a bunch of parsley are the only fresh ingredients you need to wrestle up. For another pantry pasta classic, see Kenji's recipe for spaghetti puttanesca.
Cioppino (San Francisco Seafood Stew)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikGood cioppino starts with a rich broth and ends with perfectly cooked fish. Daniel starts by sweating onion, fennel, and garlic, then adds a whole can of tomatoes, plus a few quarts of clam juice–enhanced seafood stock. Packed with halibut, two types of crustaceans, two varieties of bivalves, and one member of the cephalopod family, this stew is a seafood show-stopper! For a tomatoey seafood stew that's lighter on prep (and your wallet), check out Kevin Vaughn's Argentine fish stew.
Andhra-Style Tomato CurrySerious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaThis recipe uses both fresh and canned tomatoes. Removing the fresh tomato chunks after a briefly frying them preserves their texture. Canned tomatoes are simmered with the rest of the curry ingredients, which deepens and concentrates their flavor.
15-Minute Creamy Tomato SoupSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergThis pantry-friendly vegan recipe from Kenji uses two large cans of peeled whole tomatoes and little else: some garlic, onion, pepper flakes, fresh herbs for garnishing, and two slices of bread, which are blended into the soup along with some olive oil for a nice, creamy texture. If you are not opposed to dairy products and have some time to spare, Stella's recipe for tomato soup gets a boost in flavor from browned butter, carrot purée, and a splash of cream.
Albóndigas de Ricota (Argentine Ricotta Balls)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikBreaded and fried ricotta balls, seasoned with Pecorino Romano and parsley, are smothered in a thick, garlicky red sauce. Capers and black olives add a sharp, briny element to the sauce, which contains two big cans of peeled whole tomatoes.
Shakshuka (North African–Style Poached Eggs in Spicy Tomato Sauce)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThis classic North African dish is the perfect weekend breakfast. A thick tomato sauce, flavored with garlic, cumin, and charred red pepper and onions, is topped with eggs and finished on low heat so that the eggs are gently cooked. Top with crumbled feta and a sprinkle of cilantro or parsley and serve with warmed flatbread for dipping into the runny yolks.
Italian-American Beef BracioleSerious Eats / Lorena MassoThis homestyle classic features thin slices of beef topped with a savory bread crumb filling and prosciutto. The slices are then rolled up and braised in a tomato sauce.
Butter ChickenSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThe makhani sauce for this chicken is simmered on the stovetop and takes on a rich tomato flavor while broiled marinated chicken adds char to the final dish. The tomato sauce is flavored with onion, ginger, garlic, chiles, cardamom, and garam masala and enriched with cashews and cream. If the lengthy simmering time seems like a big ask, try Sho's pressure cooker version of this recipe.
Penne alla VodkaSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerDaniel's superlative take on this Italian-American restaurant classic balances the richness of heavy cream with an entire can of tomato paste. Adding vodka when the pasta and sauce are nearly finished preserves its heat and flavor-enhancing properties without overpowering the dish.
Eggs in PurgatorySerious Eats / Amanda SuarezLeah's eggs in purgatory are great for breakfast, brunch, or dinner and take less than 30 minutes to prep. Canned tomatoes are simmered with aromatics, red pepper flakes, and fragrant tomatoes, then eggs are eased into the mixture and poached until the whites are set and the yolks are still runny. Serve with Italian bread for dipping into the yolks and soaking up every last bit of sauce.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Southern Italian dish of eggs in purgatory—"uova in purgatorio" in Italian—has been a go-to meal for my family since I was young. I grew up in an Italian-American household where my mom always had the freezer stocked with a few quarts of homemade tomato sauce to thaw out for various meals, and eggs in purgatory was a frequent quick breakfast.
The one-skillet dish features eggs gently poached in a bright, savory tomato sauce spiked with red pepper flakes and a pop of fresh basil. The rich yolks mingle with the spicy sauce, and everything gets scooped up with crusty bread, making it an excellent breakfast‑for‑dinner option. The name “purgatory" is believed to come from the red, bubbling, spicy tomato sauce, which represents the flames surrounding the souls in limbo in purgatory.
I’m a fan of eggs in purgatory because the dish is incredibly delicious and the fact that it embodies the Italian cooking ethos of using just a few stellar ingredients and letting them shine, but there’s also a practical reason to love it: It’s convenient. A basic version comes together quickly from pantry staples you likely already have on hand: Tomatoes (canned work best), olive oil, onion, garlic, oregano, and red pepper flakes are cooked in a skillet until the flavors blend and the sauce thickens, then the eggs are cracked in and cooked until just set. My recipe also includes fresh basil, which adds a wonderful brightness to the dish, and can be considered a pantry staple if you have a garden in your yard (or windowsill).
Even if you don’t have premade sauce on hand like my family always did, you can make eggs in purgatory in less than 30 minutes. Plus, it can be customized with ingredients you have on hand and want to use up, such as crumbled cheese, olives, sausage, or sautéed vegetables. Here are a few tips to prepare this simple, rustic egg dish with a devilishly good tomato sauce.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTips for Perfectly Poached Eggs in PurgatorySkip the fresh tomatoes and use canned instead. Yes, fresh tomatoes, especially plum or Roma tomatoes, are wonderful when cooked down into a nice thick sauce, but making a flavorful sauce from fresh tomatoes takes hours of simmering, and that's assuming you can even get good tomatoes. Most of the year, that's easier said than done. For a quick-cooking tomato sauce that can be made anytime, canned tomatoes are a better option, and roughly crushed canned whole peeled tomatoes are best for this recipe.
A perfect sauce for eggs in purgatory should be slightly chunky, which is why I like to crush whole tomatoes by hand. Plus, whole peeled tomatoes typically work better for sauces than diced tomatoes or crushed tomatoes—that’s because diced tomatoes are packed with calcium chloride, which helps them keep their diced shape even after extended cooking, preventing them from turning into a cohesive sauce. At the other end of the tomato texture spectrum, canned crushed tomatoes lack enough texture and also often have a watered down flavor. Whole peeled tomatoes break down easily and have a concentrated flavor. You don’t need to get out your food mill or food processor to purée them; you can easily break them down by squeezing the tomatoes through your fingers in a bowl to get irregular chunks, and then they’ll further melt into the desired sauce consistency while simmering.
Canned tomatoes can vary greatly in quality, so I recommend using a trusted brand. Of the readily available brands, I like Cento San Marzano Certified Peeled Tomatoes, Muir Glen Organic Whole Peeled Tomatoes, and Red Gold Whole Peeled Tomatoes. If these brands are unavailable, you’re unlikely to go wrong with canned tomatoes labeled D.O.P. San Marzano tomatoes imported from Italy. The D.O.P. seal ensures that they were grown, harvested, and processed under very strict protocols that guarantee a certain base quality.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd plenty of aromatics. Beyond great quality canned tomatoes, the sauce gets its concentrated flavor from sautéing a mixture of onion, garlic, tomato paste, and fresh oregano in a healthy dose of olive oil. Once these ingredients have hit their aromatic sweet spot, it's important to immediately add the tomatoes. This will instantly cool the pan, halting the cooking of the aromatics, preventing overcooking. While I call for a full teaspoon of red pepper flakes, you can use less or more, depending on your spice tolerance. I also like to add a full cup of basil leaves to the sauce while simmering to bolster its flavor.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd the eggs off heat. To turn the sauce into a meal, all you need is to gently poach the eggs directly in the sauce until just set. This can be easier said than done, as making shallow indentations in the sauce and cracking each individual egg into the wells can take some time, causing the first egg to overcook by the time the last egg is cracked in. To avoid this and to help the eggs cook at a more even rate, remove the skillet from the burner to eliminate the urgency of adding them over heat. I also recommend cracking each egg into a small bowl before carefully adding it to the sauce so you can remove any rogue eggshell pieces before adding each egg to the skillet. It’s also easier to neatly slip each egg into the sauce from a bowl, which helps keep the eggs from spreading too much as they cook.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpoon some sauce over the egg whites and finish on the stovetop. Taking a cue from Kenji’s shakshuka recipe, I incorporate his technique of spooning a little bit of the sauce around the whites of the eggs to help them set just a touch faster than the yolks. While some recipes rely on the oven to finish cooking the eggs, I found that covering the skillet and letting the eggs simmer and steam on the stovetop works just as well. Monitor the skillet closely and make sure to cook until the egg whites are just set and the yolks still golden and soft—perfect for dipping bread into.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdjust oven rack to middle position and heat broiler. Arrange bread slices on baking sheet and drizzle first sides with 2 tablespoons oil; flip slices and drizzle with 2 more tablespoons oil. Broil the bread until deep golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. Set aside.
Serious Eats/Amanda SuarezIn a large bowl, use your finger to crush tomatoes until tomato pieces are no larger than 1/2 inch; set aside.
Serious Eats/Amanda SuarezHeat remaining 3 tablespoons oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add tomato paste, oregano, salt, and pepper flakes, and cook, stirring occasionally, until rust-colored, about 2 minutes. Add basil leaves and cook until wilted, about 30 seconds. Stir in reserved crushed tomatoes and bring to a gentle simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, 5 to 10 minutes. The sauce should be thick enough that a spatula should leaves trail in the sauce that slowly fills in behind it, but the sauce should still move when the skillet is shaken.
Serious Eats/Amanda SuarezRemove skillet from heat and let sit for 2 minutes to cool slightly. In a small bowl, crack 1 egg. Using a rubber spatula or large spoon, clear a 2-inch-diameter well in sauce. Immediately pour in the cracked egg. (The well will hold yolk in place but may not fully contain egg white; this is ok.) Repeat with remaining eggs, evenly spacing the remaining 7 eggs in total around the skillet (7 around perimeter and 1 in the center).
Serious Eats/Amanda SuarezSeason each egg lightly with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, cover, and cook, reducing heat as needed to maintain gentle simmer, until yolks film over, 4 to 5 minutes. Continue to cook, covered, until whites are just set (if skillet is shaken lightly, each egg should jiggle), 1 to 2 minutes longer for slightly runny yolks or 3 to 4 minutes for soft-cooked yolks.
Serious Eats/Amanda SuarezOff heat sprinkle with Parmesan and chopped basil and drizzle with extra oil. Serve immediately with toasted bread.
Serious Eats/Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment12-inch skillet
NotesAdjust the red pepper flakes amount to your preferred spice level.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe sauce can be cooked through step 3 and refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 3 months.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostI look back now and I laugh: How naive I was! To think we could publish an unsalted butter taste test and just walk away from it assuming you would be happy. I remember the day I hit ‘publish’ and the relief I felt as I crossed another item off my to-do list. But that was quickly followed by annoyed Instagram comments, and then the exasperated emails rolled in. You…you prefer salted butter. Because our preference is almost always to cook with unsalted butter, we forgot that eating it is much more pleasurable when there's salt involved.
Here's the good news: I've now made everyone eat a disgusting amount of salted butter.
On a recent test kitchen day, the SE team pulled together 13 brands ofsalted butter that you're likely to find in your local supermarket, and methodically, empirically, scientifically! tasted its way through them all in a quest to identify the very best. And we had a delicious blast doing it. I hope you enjoy our findings! (Said without a hint of saltiness, I promise.)
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostThe Contenders* Amish Country Butter, Salted, Roll * Breakstone's All Natural Salted Butter * Cabot Salted Butter Quarters * Challenge Butter, Salted * Finlandia Imported Butter, Perfectly Salted * Grassland Non-GMO, Salted Sweet Cream Butter * Kerrygold Butter, Pure Irish * Land O’Lakes Butter, Salted * Nature’s Promise Organic Sweet Cream Butter Salted Sticks * Plugrà Premium European Style Salted Butter * Truly Grass Fed Natural Creamy Irish Butter, Salted * Urban Meadows Salted Butter * Vermont Creamery Cultured Butter With Sea Salt
The CriteriaA good salted butter is—wait for it—salty. That saltiness shouldn’t overwhelm the butter's dairy sweetness (with or without a cultured tang), but it should highlight it in pleasantly seasoned bursts.
To assess the butters, testers evaluated each in randomized order and without knowing which brands were which. They scored the butters on specific criteria like flavor, aroma, and texture, as well as overall preference.
Butters were allowed to sit at room temperature for one hour before tasting to take the chill off and make spreading on bread possible. We didn’t want the color of the butter to affect anyone’s opinion, so we flipped all the buttered bread upside down and conducted the tasting without peeking at the product underneath. As always, this is important work that I took very seriously, annoying no one at all during the process.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostThe Big PictureSimilarly to the unsalted butter taste test, we concluded that…we like almost all salted butter!
While the below results are ranked in order of score, all the samples' average scores fell within a narrow 1.5-point range, which means there was not a dramatic difference from one to the next (this was also true in our unsalted butter taste test). Our top-ranking selections were packed with positive notes from testers, but everything toward the “bottom” got, at most, few gently, minimally critical notes.
One interesting difference from our unsalted butter taste test was that, with the noteworthy exception of the highest-scored butter, all our other top selections overwhelmingly had at least 82% butterfat, making them all fall under the umbrella of “European-style butter.” This indicates that the presence of salt, which is a "flavor enhancer," makes other qualities of the butter more pronounced—the muted flavors of unsalted butter apparently made it more difficult to suss out qualities like fat percentage that, in theory, might correlate with perceptions of quality. With salt added, that was less the case.
As for aroma, we found it to be a less preference-defining quality across these samples than we did with the unsalted butters, but mild nature smells (grass, mushrooms, cream) were received well by tasters.
It’s worth noting we’d hoped to include Vital Farms (our unsalted winner!), Kate’s, Isigny Ste Mère Beurre D'Isigny, Les Prés Salés, Hotel Bar, and Organic Valley butters, but could not find them across four supermarkets.
TL;DR: Salted butter—it’s good! Wild out in a salted butter aisle near you!
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostThe RankingsCabot Salted Butter Quarters, 3.9/580.6% butterfatThe way I triple-checked to make sure this was the butter everyone was raving about!! “Grassy and fresh,” Kelli wrote: “This tastes like exactly what you want first thing in the morning.” It reminded Genevieve “of a really nice butter you get at a French restaurant, bread basket and all.” Jordan “loved everything about this butter.” No one explicitly made note of the salt content of this butter, so I’m going to assume it was neither too salty nor too not-salty, but instead quietly just right (very much a Goldilocks moment as far as salted butters go).
Vermont Creamery Cultured Butter with Sea Salt, 3.87/582% butterfatAnd just like that, saltiness entered the equation! Not only did most everyone call out an ideal salt-to-sweet ratio, but they also enjoyed the clean, cultured flavor of this butter. It “might be the only one I actually want to eat consistently out of the pack,” per Genevieve.
Amish Country Butter, Salted, Roll, 3.33/584-85% butterfatThere’s a lot to love about anything edible that makes its way to you in the form and size of a sunshine-y yellow cylindrical brick. Of course, my coworkers did not know this was said brick while eating it, but this Amish offering yielded the most interesting tasting notes. Daniel called it “slightly barnyardy,” (affectionately, I think?), while Genevieve said it tasted “halfway to garlic bread.” Kelli called it floral, noting it was “the most complex flavor [she] experienced during this test,” and Jordan tasted lemon in each bite. I would be remiss if I didn’t mention Megan’s fantastically scathing “this tastes like salty fridge” note, but others’ rankings were so high it didn’t nudge this placement down.
Plugrà Premium European Style Salted Butter, 3.32/582% butterfatNot only did salt hit hard in this sample, but the butter tasted creamy and nutty to most testers, some of whom said they felt nostalgic eating it.
Nature’s Promise Organic Sweet Cream Butter Salted Sticks, 3.22/582% butterfatTasters noted that this butter had salt woven through it in seeming ribbons, rather than spread evenly throughout. It was milky! It was creamy! It was fancy-feeling! It was a really nice option!
Kerrygold Butter, Pure Irish, 3.21/582% butterfatAll testers pointed to a pleasant fatiness present in their beloved Kerrygold (really—this team talks organically about their fondness for Kerrygold a lot). Mentions of fresh movie theater popcorn, rich olive oil, and unskimmed cream, etc. It's a lovely option with a rich texture.
Truly Grass Fed Natural Creamy Irish Butter, Salted, 3.21/582% butterfat“Nice and salty!” Genevieve wrote. In fact, this butter saw the most instances of “salty!” written verbatim throughout testing notes. Do you like salt? Do you like butter? You will like this salty butter!
Finlandia Imported Butter, Perfectly Salted, 3.15/582-83% butterfat
One of the very few butters with a smell described by those who noticed it as distinctly “buttery.” There are worse things to be called than buttery, if you're a block of butter.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostBreakstone's All Natural Salted Butter, 3.15/5“At least 80% butterfat”Megan was the first one to describe this butter as “quite salty,” while Daniel took it to: “maybe too salty!” Still, it tasted neutral and not not as rich as some of the other butters in this tasting, likely due to it being on the lower end of the butterfat spectrum.
Land O’Lakes Butter, Salted, 3/5Not much to say here except it's a totally neutral option for those looking to eat a lot of salty butter but not feel like they are digesting a ton of salty butter; once again, lower butterfat is probably to thank for this being the overarching description.
Challenge Butter, Salted, 3/580% butterfat
Many enjoyed this butter's smoothness. Kelli mentioned she would be hesitant to add more salt if she were cooking with this, though no one else pointed to the salt level as too much.
Grassland Non-GMO, Salted Sweet Cream Butter, 2.9/580% butterfat
Very mild and pleasant. Softened quickly, spread easily. Sunk into my hands like molten lava cake when I attempted to put it back in the fridge around four-and-a-half hours at room temp. That’s OK! I love for colleagues to see my laptop and think: “Ew!”
Urban Meadows Salted Butter, 2.8/580% butterfatDespite its 80% butterfat, three tasters described this as a “clearly fatty” butter. Urban Meadows also came through sweeter than it did salty to many. That’s also OK! I love for my colleagues to think: “Did she mix up the taste tests? On purpose??” I ate six baguette bites coated in this stuff just to feel something.
Our Testing MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted completely hidden and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample 1 first, while taster B will taste sample 6 first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria that vary from sample to sample. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation of actual results possible.
Serious Eats / Tyler RoelandMemorial Day Weekend may be coming to a close, but some of our best-testing kitchen gear is still on sale. We wouldn’t want you to miss out on last-chance upgrades, whether you’re looking for a more precise coffee grinder or a feature-packed pizza oven. Williams Sonoma is still brimming with great deals you can grab, and we’ve rounded up the best ones. Save up to 40% off tried and true favorites like the Staub grill pan and Fellow temperature control electric kettle.
Last-Minute Williams Sonoma Memorial Day Sales One of the Best Pellet Grills: Traeger Pro Series 780 Grill * One of the Best Dutch Ovens: Le Creuset 6 3/4-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Wide Dutch Oven * The Best Nugget Countertop Ice Maker: GE Profile Opal 2.0 Nugget Ice Maker * The Best Kitchen Shears: Shun Classic Kitchen Shears * A Great Nakiri Knife: Global Classic 7-Inch Vegetable Knife * The Best French Press: Fellow Clara French Press * The Best Gooseneck Kettle: Fellow Stagg EKG Electric Pour-Over Kettle * The Best Coffee Grinder for Pour-Overs: Fellow Ode Gen 2 Brew Grinder * A Great Multi-Fuel Pizza Oven: Ooni Karu 16 Pizza Oven * The Best Enameled Cast Iron Grill Pan: Staub Enameled Cast Iron Grill Pan * The Best Air Fryer:* Instant Pot 6-Quart Vortex Plus Air Fryer
One of the Best Pellet Grills: Traeger Pro Series 780 GrillWilliams SonomaPellet grills offer the best of both worlds: You can grill or smoke your proteins based on what you’re craving. During our tests of 21 pellet grills, we found that the Traeger Pro 780 grill offered great smoke and flavor for a model under $1,000. It also has a digital control panel and now, it’s on sale for an even more attractive price at $200 off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreOne of the Best Dutch Ovens: Le Creuset 6 3/4-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Wide Dutch OvenWilliams SonomaIt’s no secret that we love Le Creuset Dutch ovens. Over the years, they’ve held up in our home kitchens and at the test kitchen, consistently delivering even heating and browning, plus incredible heat retention. Right now, the wider model is 35% off, and it’s perfect for large roasts, whole chickens, and more.
Serious Eats / Emily DrydenThe Best Nugget Countertop Ice Maker:GE Profile Opal 2.0 Nugget Ice MakerWilliams SonomaIced drinks season is upon us, and we are once again reminded that there are only so many cubes an ice tray can make. For folks who like to pile ice into their drinks all day long, the GE Profile 2.0 countertop nugget ice maker delivers. It can make just over a pound of pellet ice in an hour, and thankfully, the storage bin can hold up to three pounds of ice. Thanks to a detachable reservoir, you don’t have to worry about lifting the whole machine, which is 38 pounds and comes in at 14.8 inches by 11.3 inches by 14.1 inches. While normally it’s a bit of an investment for on-demand ice, the machine is still a rare $100 off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe Best Kitchen Shears:Shun Classic Kitchen ShearsWilliams SonomaDuring our tests of 12 shears, the best ones turned out to be the Shun Classic kitchen shears. This pair is super sharp, comfortable to hold, and has long blades (3.75 inches). It’s especially versatile thanks to the five additional features including a nutcracker, a jar opener, a bone notch, a bottle opener, and two screwdriver tips. You can also take it apart to easily clean the blades independently — a plus for busy home cooks. Grab the 20% off deal at Williams Sonoma.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubA Great Nakiri Knife:Global Classic 7-Inch Vegetable KnifeWilliams SonomaThe Nakiri knife excels at slicing and dicing through denser vegetables like sweet potatoes or more delicate produce like eggplant. One of our favorites is the Global 7-inch vegetable knife, which has a squared off, Nakiri-style blade that’s super sharp and durable. Thankfully, the price is still slashed 23% on this model.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerThe Best French Press: Fellow Clara French PressWilliams SonomaFor French press coffee lovers out there, our favorite Fellow Clara French press is 20% off at Williams Sonoma. It has a sleek design, plus double-walled insulation that provides excellent heat retention to keep coffee hottest for longer. During our test, we found that the Clara produced smooth, nougat-like coffee and was an absolute pleasure to use. It has a 24-ounce capacity so you can keep pouring from it throughout the day.
Serious Eats / Victor ProtasioThe Best Gooseneck Kettle: Fellow Stagg EKG Electric Pour-Over KettleWilliams SonomaAs burgeoning coffee enthusiasts become more serious about their routines, a gooseneck kettle is essential. Especially for pour-overs, being able to pour water slowly and smoothly more evenly saturates coffee grounds, ensuring a full-bodied flavor in the brew. We love the Fellow Stagg EKG electric gooseneck kettle thanks to its precise temperature control settings that remained accurate throughout our tests. In fact, you can control temperature down to the degree, from 135°F to 212°F. Fellow products rarely go on sale, so even 15% off makes it worth grabbing.
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezThe Best Coffee Grinder for Pour-Overs:Fellow Ode Gen 2 Coffee GrinderWilliams SonomaThe Fellow Ode Gen 2 grinder produced some of the most consistent grindings in our testing. It’s user friendly, has no static cling, and is impeccably stylish. Thanks to its vertically-oriented flat grinding burrs, which mimic high-end commercial grinders, the Ode Gen 2 yields impressive flavor clarity in each and every brew. It’s a whopping 30% off, a surefire sign that it’s time to upgrade your morning coffee once and for all.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubA Great Multi-Fuel Pizza Oven:Ooni Karu 16 Pizza OvenWilliams SonomaOutdoor pizza is one of the best parts of warmer weather, and the Ooni Karu 16 is a powerful pizza oven that’s full of helpful features, like an internal temperature gauge, a glass door for faster heating, and its ability to use multiple fueling sources. You can use gas, wood, or charcoal with this model, and it takes only 25 minutes to reach 950°F, according to our tests.It even comes complete with a pizza stone diameter of 16 inches, so you can churn out family-sized pies all day long. Williams Sonoma has the Ooni Karu 16 on sale for 20% off, so grab one just in time for your dough to proof.
Serious Eats / Stacy K. AllenThe Best Enameled Cast Iron Grill Pan:Staub Enameled Cast Iron Grill PanWilliams SonomaWho says superb grilling can only be achieved outdoors? The Staub enameled cast iron grill pan grilled its competition during our tests thanks to sturdy cast iron construction and ridged design. It grilled sandwiches and chicken breast beautifully, and even left impressively charred grill marks on burger patties thanks to its .2-inch grates (there are 13 of them!) that are deeper than most. While we feel it’s worth the investment at its normal price, it’s $100 off right now.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerThe Best Air Fryer:Instant Pot 6-Quart Vortex Plus Air FryerWilliams SonomaIf there’s one thing we love here, it’s precision and control. The Instant Pot Vortex is an air fryer that offers those very features with its ability to set the temperature in 5-degree increments. It’s been our top air fryer pick since 2021, thanks to its large capacity (though you can choose between a 6-quart model or an 8-quart model) and a user-friendly control panel. Plus, it makes truly crispy fries and tender chicken wings that still have a crunch to them — what more could you ask for in an air fryer? Luckily, it’s still 23% off at Williams Sonoma.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreFAQsHow long will the Williams Sonoma Memorial Day sale last?While Memorial Day sales tend to end after, well, Memorial Day, there are times when deals are extended. We’ll keep an eye on sales as they develop and update this list accordingly.
What are other Memorial Day sales happening right now?We have several Memorial Day roundups that include the best deals on some of our favorite gear, including the Vitamix 5200 blender and Weber gas grill.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a Commerce Writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * An spends her working hours scouring the internet for kitchen deals. She loves a good sale and will hold up a checkout line if she has coupons that need to be used.
Serious Eats / Reese HerringtonAs someone who spends my days testing kitchen equipment, I’ve gotten to find out what the best manual citrus juicer is or which vegetable peeler is fastest. It’s a blessing and a curse to know what the best of the best is, especially during sales, when there are deals on all of my favorite gear. And for Memorial Day, the sales are plentiful. Thankfully, I scoured through the sales to find the best deals on the best products that I think are actually worth buying, from our loved All-Clad skillet to the best Le Creuset Dutch oven. Plus, some items are up to 50% off.
Editor’s Memorial Day Deal Picks: The Best Blender: Vitamix 5200 Professional-Grade Blender * The Best Cast Iron Dutch Oven: Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Signature Dutch Oven * The Best Kitchen Towels: Zeppoli Classic Dish Towels * The Best Instant Pot: Instant Pot Pro Pressure Cooker * A Versatile Air Fryer: Instant Vortex Plus 6-Quart Air Fryer * The Best Stainless Steel Sauce Pan: All-Clad D3 3-Ply Stainless Steel Sauce Pan * The Best Immersion Blender: All-Clad Electrics Stainless Steel Immersion Blender * The Best Budget Coffee Grinder: OXO Brew Conical Burr Coffee Grinder * The Best Wood-Fired Pizza Oven: Ooni Fyra 12 Wood-Fired Outdoor Pizza Oven * One of the Best Stainless-Steel Skillets:* All-Clad 12-Inch Stainless Steel Skillet
The Best Blender: Vitamix 5200 Professional-Grade BlenderAmazonMy professional-grade blender is one of my most beloved kitchen appliances. I reach for it nearly daily to make smoothies, soups, sauces, and more. Something like the Vitamix 5200 blender (our favorite of ten years) is worth the investment for all the time it will save you in the kitchen. This model has outperformed the rest time and time again thanks to its powerful motor and tapered jar that can hold up to 64 fluid ounces. Plus, it has an analog control panel with 10 speeds that offers plenty of control. The Vitamix 5200 is rarely on sale, so $135 off is a deal worth grabbing in my opinion.
Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesThe Best Cast Iron Dutch Oven: Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Signature Dutch OvenAmazonI’ve used almost every Dutch oven on the market, but I’m still eyeing this Le Creuset Dutch oven deal, because at 33% off, it’s too good to pass up. After six years of tests, the Le Creuset Dutch oven remains our top pick out of 20 models. This Dutch oven seared, sautéed, and slow-cooked effortlessly thanks to its even heat distribution and retention. The 5.5-quart capacity is ideal whether you’re cooking for yourself (with lots of leftovers) or for a crowd. At 11 pounds, it’s also lighter than the average Dutch oven we tested.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyThe Best Kitchen Towels: Zeppoli Classic Dish Towels, Set of 15AmazonI love my dish towels — almost too much. They sop up all my messes, help me maneuver hot pots and pans with more dexterity, and last forever. As a believer that one can never have too many dish towels, I’m eyeing these Zeppoli classic dish towels. After testing 17 dish towels, we were impressed with how sturdy and absorbent the Zeppoli towels are. At just under $1 apiece, the price point is almost too good to be true — yet it is.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Best Instant Pot: Instant Pot Pro Pressure CookerAmazonOn evenings when I can’t bear to be at the stovetop, I’m thankful to have an Instant Pot that makes my weeknight dinner with a touch of a button. With it, I can make my favorite mushroom risotto in a fraction of the time. While it may feel like there’s an infinite number of Instant Pots out there, our rigorous tests revealed a top performer: the Instant Pot Pro. It pressurized the quickest, and was the best at searing and sautéeing. It also has a non-spinning stainless steel inner pot that stays still when you stir. Right now, the 6-quart model is a steep 30% off.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThe Best Air Fryer: Instant Vortex Plus 6-Quart Air FryerAmazonMy mom and I bonded over shared custody of an air fryer for years. We made a lot of fries and even experimented with vegetarian “chicken” wings. Now that it’s time for me to get my own air fryer, I’m eyeing the Instant Vortex Plus, our top air fryer pick. The model fried its competition by consistently browning foods at the fastest speeds during our tests. Its touchscreen with knob control makes for a user-friendly interface and it offers six functions including air fry, roast, broil, bake, reheat, and dehydrate. At 44% off, it’s a deal that will pay for itself when I’m enjoying restaurant-level fries at home.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe Best Stainless Steel Saucepan: All-Clad D3 3-Ply Stainless Steel SaucepanAmazonI love my saucepan. It’s the unsung hero of my kitchen, cooking up custards, sauces, quick rice, and so much more over the 10+ years that I’ve had it. While it still has a few years left in it, I’m already planning an upgrade to one of our top saucepan picks, the All-Clad stainless steel saucepan. During our tests, the 3-ply stainless steel cooked evenly and was responsive to heat. The 3-quart model is a great size for most kitchens, and while All-Clad pieces are usually pricey, this 33% off deal has me more than intrigued.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinThe Best Immersion Blender: All-Clad Electrics Stainless Steel Immersion BlenderAmazonI love eating soup all year round, even during the height of summer, and my immersion blender is my partner in crime. Whether I’m making butternut squash soup or cream of mushroom, I love that I can blend directly in my stockpot with a handheld blender like the All-Clad stainless steel immersion blender. Through each round of testing, the All-Clad model powered through as the fastest and most efficient immersion blender. It crushed ice cubes, puréed celery, and emulsified mayo in seconds. Grab it for 30% off, then blend and blitz your way to new culinary heights.
Serious Eats / Emily DrydenThe Best Budget Coffee Grinder: OXO Brew Conical Burr Coffee GrinderAmazonThe day I found out about grinding coffee with a burr grinder as opposed to using a bladed spice grinder, my coffee game changed. Using a high quality burr grinder gives me more control over how coarse or fine of a grind I want. I’ve been using a handheld burr grinder for years, but as I drink more coffee, I’m tempted by this OXO conical burr grinder that’s been our best budget coffee grinder pick for years. It has 15 settings, plus micro settings in between the numbers to achieve even more precise grinds. It’s already affordable, but it’s on extra sale at 20% off.
The Best Wood-Fired Pizza Oven: Ooni Fyra 12 Wood-Fired Outdoor Pizza OvenAmazonPizza is one of my favorite foods, and if I could, I’d have it for dinner every night. The Ooni Fyra 12 outdoor pizza oven makes a strong argument for daily pizzas. It has a portable design that doesn’t take up too much space, but with a 12-inch stone diameter, it can still churn out shareable pizzas. Using wood pellets only, it can reach 950°F in 15 to 20 minutes and can cook a pizza in just over a minute. Now that it’s 30% off, it looks like I might just have my daily pizza afterall.
Serious Eats / Stacy K. AllenOne of the Best Stainless-Steel Skillets: All-Clad 12-Inch Stainless Steel SkilletAmazonA great stainless steel skillet lasts a lifetime. I’ve had my 10-inch skillet for years, and it still sears up tofu just as beautifully as the day I got it. As I look to add a 12-inch pan to my set, I’m eyeing the All-Clad 12-inch stainless steel skillet, one of our favorites after rounds of testing. It conducts and retains heat evenly and while it’s usually on the pricier side, it’s definitely worth grabbing now at a whopping 50% off.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikFAQsHow long do Memorial Day sales last?
While a typical Memorial Day sale lasts through Memorial Day, which lands on May 27, 2024, some deals stay on for longer. We’ll keep this list updated.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a Commerce Writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * An has reviewed kitchen gear for years, and especially loved her Vietnamese coffee phin and jar scraper.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteWhen I lived in Cairo, I often found myself navigating the bustling streets and heavy traffic after work. I had one destination in mind: Koshari Al Tahrir, an eatery near Tahrir Square specializing in koshari, an iconic Egyptian street food of fluffy vermicelli, rice, tender black lentils, and soft pasta elbows. It’s my favorite comfort food, and in Cairo, there is no place that does it better than Koshari Al Tahrir.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteThere, middle-aged men with friendly smiles would greet you as they assembled koshari layer by layer. I’d watch as they quickly filled shiny aluminum bowls with a base of rice and lentils, followed by generous spoonfuls of macaroni and a ladle of tender chickpeas. With a flourish, they’d stream a bright tomato sauce on top of it all before adding the final touches: a heap of crispy fried onions and drizzles of a da’ah (a garlicky vinegar sauce) and shatta (a chile sauce). This is a scene deeply etched into my memory, and though it’s been 15 years since I moved to the United States, I still think of it every time I make koshari.
The Origins of KoshariThough no one knows for sure where koshari came from, most people in Egypt believe that kitchari—an Indian dish of lentils and basmati rice—may have inspired the beloved Egyptian meal. It’s possible that Indian soldiers, who arrived with Britain’s occupation of Egypt in the late 1800s, brought kitchari with them. Some say the dish has Italian influences, too, as Egyptian koshari has two distinctly Italian staples: pasta and tomato sauce. To make the dish their own, Egyptians drizzled da’ah, a tangy garlic and vinegar sauce, and shatta, a spicy chile and garlic sauce, onto it. Today, variations of koshari, including mujaddara or mejadra—a similar meal of basmati rice, black lentils, and caramelized onions—are eaten throughout the Arab world.
Koshari is eaten year-round in Egypt, but is a particular favorite during Lent, when Copts (Egyptian Christians)—including my family—observe a strictly vegan diet. Despite using relatively basic pantry staples like rice and lentils, koshari is a meal bursting with tart, savory, flavors, with a wide range of textures that includes crisp onions, tender rice, and an assortment of sauces.
Serious Eats / Kevin White
Local Egyptian home cooks rarely make koshari as it’s so ubiquitous and easy to purchase from street vendors, who offer the dish at fairly reasonable prices. For those very reasons, I only became motivated to make my own koshari when I moved to the US—where it isn’t as readily available—in 2008. A meal so ubiquitous in Egypt, and one I took for granted, had become a nostalgic treat. I made it my mission to recreate koshari in my own kitchen.
The first few times I made it, I found it difficult to prepare all the ingredients—the lentils, the rice, the macaroni, sauces, and fried onions—at the same time while ensuring they were each the correct texture and flavor. Through plenty of trial and error, I figured out how to make the best possible version at home. Since perfecting my koshari, my Egyptian friends and family have clamored for the dish and frequently request that I make it. Even my non-Egyptian friends, who didn’t grow up eating it, have come to love it.
How to Make Koshari at HomeDon’t be daunted by the long list of ingredients required for koshari—it’s a fairly simple dish to make. The key to making it well is preparing and laying out all the components before you begin cooking—what the French call mise en place—which helps streamline the cooking process. I recommend soaking the basmati rice in cold water for 30 minutes and the black lentils in hot water for one hour, which will speed up the cooking time and result in tender grains.
Frying the ShallotsAn epic koshari would be incomplete without its signature garnish of crispy fried shallots. In a pinch, you could use store-bought fried shallots, but I highly recommend making your own so you can use the fragrant oil leftover from cooking the shallots to make the rest of the dish and the sauces. For thin, evenly sliced shallots, use a mandolin or sharp knife. Be sure to fry in batches to prevent overcrowding in the pan, as that will result in soggy shallots. To keep the alliums as crisp as possible, I recommend straining them with a slotted spoon once they’ve finished cooking, then transferring the shallots to a paper-towel-lined plate or baking sheet.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteIf you plan on preparing the shallots the day before and want to re-crisp them before you assemble the koshari, you can place them on a baking sheet and refresh them in an oven preheated to 360ºF (182ºC). Bake for five to seven minutes until they’re crisp again.
Don’t Skip the SaucesThough koshari is delicious on its own, the three sauces—salsa, a mild tomato sauce; da’ah, a tangy garlic-vinegar sauce; and shatta, a chile-garlic sauce—are what make it truly superb. As I mentioned above, the key to success is to set out all your ingredients beforehand so you can quickly make each of these sauces without chaos or confusion. If you have time to spare, I highly recommend making these sauces ahead of time, as they seem to become more flavorful as they sit.
Serious Eats / Kevin White Salsa: I like to purée fresh tomatoes for this by blitzing two to three ripe tomatoes in a food processor. But for ease, I’ve recommended canned or bottled tomato passata here. I add a teaspoon of granulated sugar to amplify the sweetness of the tomatoes, and for extra depth of flavor, I sauté garlic in some of the shallot oil before whisking in the vinegar, tomatoes, cumin, and coriander. * Da’ah: Like the salsa, this is a simple sauce to prepare and utilizes shallot-infused oil for depth. Vinegar and lime juice add an acidic kick, which helps to offset the heaviness of the rice and lentils. * Shatta:* Scented with cumin and spiced with red pepper flakes, this garlicky chile sauce brings heat to koshari. I like to make my own, but you can substitute with store-bought hot sauce like sriracha or chile-garlic sauce.
Tips for Cooking KoshariSerious Eats / Kevin WhiteKoshari is an easy one-pot meal, but with a little effort, you can make a phenomenal one that tastes just like what you’d find on the streets of Egypt. Here are some tips and tricks to keep in mind.
- Coat the rice, pasta, and lentils in hot oil. This prevents them from sticking to one another during the cooking process and results in a fluffier koshari.
- The order you add the ingredients is important. You may be tempted to toss the rice, pasta, and lentils in at the same time, but because they each have different cooking times, it’s crucial to consider the order they go in. Start by frying the vermicelli in oil, then add the rice, followed by the pasta, taking a minute or two between each to evenly coat the ingredients in oil. Finally, add the lentils.
- Fluff with a fork. To preserve the delicate texture of the basmati rice, uncover it once it’s cooked and fluff with a fork.
How to Serve KoshariBecause koshari is such a filling dish, most people enjoy it on its own with just the sauces and fried shallots. Some like to round out the meal with salata baladi, a rustic Egyptian salad of cucumber, tomatoes, green pepper, parsley, and red onions dressed in a simple vinaigrette of lemon juice, olive oil, vinegar, and dried mint.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteRegardless of how you choose to serve it, I recommend making a big batch and sharing it with your loved ones. It’s the most pleasurable way to have koshari, and if you do it often enough, your friends and family may even start to ask for it regularly the way mine do.
For the Fried Shallots and Shallot-Infused Oil: In a 10-inch skillet, combine oil and shallots over medium heat, and cook, stirring often, until shallots are golden brown and crisp, 20 to 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteStrain through a fine-mesh strainer into a heatproof bowl. Transfer shallots to a paper-towel lined plate to drain and season with salt. Set shallot-infused oil aside to cool. Store the fried shallots in an airtight container until you are ready to use. Store the shallot-infused oil in a clean jar once cooled.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Salsa: In a medium saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of shallot-infused oil over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until garlic is fragrant and golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Whisk in vinegar, tomato passata, sugar, cumin, and coriander. Adjust heat to low and simmer until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. (The sauce should have the consistency of a marinara; if it becomes too thick, loosen the sauce with additional water as needed.) Remove from heat and set aside uncovered; remove 1/4 cup salsa and set aside for shatta.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteFor the Da’ah: In a small saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons shallot-infused oil over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Whisk in vinegar, water, lime juice, and cumin. Season with salt to taste. (If sauce is too acidic, add one or two tablespoons of water.) Remove from heat and set aside. Wipe saucepan clean to prepare the shatta.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteFor the Shatta: In the now-clean small saucepan,heat 1 tablespoonshallot-infused oil over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add red pepper flakes, stirring constantly until fragrant, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add garlic, and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in tomato paste until well combined, followed by 1/4 cup salsa (prepared in step 3) and ground cumin. Simmer on low heat until slightly thickened, 2 minutes. Remove from heat and season with salt to taste. Set aside. (See notes.)
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteFor the Koshari: In a small saucepan or kettle, bring 2 cups (240ml) of water to a boil, set aside. In a 6-quart heavy-bottom pot, heat 1/4 cup shallot oil over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add vermicelli, stirring to coat in oil until they are a deep amber color, about 4 minutes. Add rice and elbow pasta to vermicelli and stir until evenly coated in the oil, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the black lentils. Pour in the 2 cups of freshly boiled water; there should be just enough to cover the ingredients. Add cumin, coriander, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and pepper, and bring to a boil over high heat, cooking until all the water has been absorbed, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, cover with lid, and cook until rice and lentils are tender, about 3 minutes. Let rest off heat for 1 minute, then uncover the pot and, using a fork, fluff rice and season with salt to taste.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteTo Assemble: Transfer koshari to a large serving dish. Drizzle koshari with da’ah and remaining salsa, top with chickpeas, and garnish with the prepared fried shallots. Serve warm with remaining sauce and shatta on the side.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteSpecial Equipment10-inch nonstick or cast iron skillet, fine-mesh strainer, medium saucepan, small saucepan, large heavy-bottom pot
NotesThis recipe can be halved or doubled.
The shatta should have a similar texture slightly thicker than hot sauce, like that of sriracha. Sriracha or store-bought chile garlic sauce can be substituted for homemade shatta.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe sauces can be refrigerated in airtight containers for up to 3 days. The fried onions can be made 1 day in advance and stored in an airtight container at room temperature.
The koshari can be stored in an airtight container or zip-top bag and frozen for up to 1 month.
To reheat koshari in the oven: Preheat the oven to 350ºF (175ºC). Place koshari in a baking dish, cover tightly with aluminum foil, heat until warmed through, about 15 minutes.
To reheat in the microwave, place koshari in a microwave-safe container and heat until warm, about 90 seconds.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyMade well, pork chops are a juicy, tender cut of meat—but they can just as easily be disappointingly tough and chewy. Because chops come from the loin, a lean cut prone to drying out, it can be difficult to get a good sear without turning the insides into a pile of sawdust. This is even harder to do when you aren’t searing the pork chops on a grill or in a hot pan, and are instead relying on the heat of an oven or air fryer to cook them.
The key to making succulent, flavorful pork chops in an air fryer is to apply a few specific techniques to maximize browning and avoid overcooking. Thanks to its small size and ability to circulate air efficiently, the appliance is a powerhouse that we and many others have come to rely on. To figure out the best way to cook pork chops in the air fryer, we worked with our test kitchen colleague Marianne Williams to methodically test multiple variables until we'd landed on a foolproof method that delivers chops that are juicy and deeply browned. Here are the results.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyTips for Preparing Pork Chops in the Air FryerFor Juicy Pork Chops, Don't Skip the Dry BrineDry-brining simply refers to salting and resting your meat before cooking it. As former Serious Eats editor Sasha Marx wrote in his guide to the technique, it is our preferred method for seasoning proteins. Unlike a traditional wet brine—which plumps up the meat with excess water and gets in the way of a good sear—dry-brining results in pork that retains more of its natural juices while browning more quickly and deeply.
Here, we recommend dry-brining your pork chops in a mixture of salt, pepper, dark brown sugar, ground mustard, and smoked paprika for at least an hour, but you can salt them up to 24 hours in advance if you have time to spare. Extra time with the brine won't lead to deeper flavor penetration of most of those spices (you can read more about the science of marination to learn why most flavors don't work their way into the meat), but extra time will allow the salt to penetrate more deeply and will give more time for the surface to dry out, aiding browning in the air fryer.
Use Bone-in, Thick-Cut Pork ChopsThere’s a time and place for thin-cut pork chops, and this is not it. Thin chops can work great with extremely high-heat applications like deep frying and grilling, but an air fryer needs more time to develop that sear and a thin chop will be cardboard by the time that happens.
We want thick, bone-in pork chops instead—look for chops that are at least 1 1/2 inches thick—as they’ll retain their moisture and flavor as they cook. While a boneless cut makes for convenient eating, bone-in pork chops have more fat and connective tissue near the bone, and that fat and connective tissue delivers more juiciness and flavor in the finished chop while insulating the lean loin from being hit with excess heat on all sides. Plus, you wouldn’t want to miss out on gnawing the bone, which is one of the most satisfying parts of eating a pork chop.
Reverse Sear...But in the Air FryerHere, we take a page out of Kenji’s reverse-seared technique by starting the pork chops low and slow at 230ºF (110ºC), then finishing them at 400ºF (205ºC) to trigger the Maillard reaction—the chemical reactions that lead to a deeply browned and flavorful exterior. This two-stage cooking process helps first cook the pork chops gently and evenly on the inside while further drying off any surface moisture, setting the stage for a rapid high-heat step that delivers a crisp, brown crust.
Elevate Your Pork Chops With a TrivetThis is a clever trick Marianne came up with while developing this recipe. She cooks the chops during the initial low-temperature stage without a trivet, giving them more distance from the high heat of the heating element, allowing them to cook more gently. Then, she removes the chops from the air fryer, puts a trivet in the basket, and increases the heat to 400ºF, and adds the pork chops back into the basket. Now elevated, the chops brown more rapidly and evenly due to their proximity to the heating element, as if they were sitting under a broiler.
Set a wire rack inside a rimmed baking sheet. In a small bowl, stir together kosher salt, brown sugar, ground mustard, paprika, and black pepper. Place pork chops on a wire rack and, using paper towels, pat dry. Season both sides evenly with the salt mixture. Refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 1 and up to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyPreheat a 6-quart air fryer to 230°F (110ºC). If needed, pat pork chops dry with paper towels. Brush both sides evenly with olive oil. Place in air fryer basket and cook, flipping halfway through, until an instant-read thermometer registers 110°F (43ºC) for medium, 15 to 18 minutes. Remove pork chops from air fryer and place on a plate (pork will not be cooked through).
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyPlace an air fryer trivet in basket of air fryer and preheat to 400°F (205ºC) for 3 minutes. Brush one side and edges of the pork chops with half of the teriyaki sauce. Place pork chops, sauced-side down, on trivet in air fryer. Brush top side and edges of pork chops with remaining teriyaki sauce. Cook, without flipping, until sauce has caramelized and pork chops are nicely browned and register 130ºF (54ºC) for medium, about 7 minutes. Remove pork chops to serving plates and let rest for 10 minutes before serving. Garnish with chives and smoked flaky salt, if desired, and serve.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseySpecial EquipmentWire rack, rimmed baking sheet, 6-quart air fryer, air fryer trivet, pastry brush, instant read thermometer
Make-Ahead and StoragePork chops can be dry brined up to 24 hours in advance.
Cooked pork chops can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 day and reheated in the air fryer or microwave until warmed through.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThe wonders of the freezer as a tool for preserving food are obvious, but the freezer can do a lot more than just store food. It can also be used as a cooking instrument. Some of these techniques have been written about on Serious Eats before. There's cryo-shucking clams and other shellfish; cryo-blanching vegetables and herbs like basil; tenderizing octopus; and hardening up squishy pork fat to make slicing easier.
However, there are other possibilities. If you were to consult the Chinese home-cooking playbook, you'd find a whole host of techniques that use the freezer to transform the textures of food and enhance flavors in ways that would be difficult to achieve otherwise.
Many of these techniques predate the use of modern freezers. In Northeast China, it was common practice to store fruits, vegetables, and other ingredients outside the home during the winter, exposed to snowy sub-zero temperatures. Some of the ingredients would be kept there throughout the season and then eaten in the warmer months, but others would be cooked and eaten during the cold season. And when those ingredients were brought back indoors and thawed, they'd be markedly different, altered in fundamental ways. To illustrate how the freezing process can change ingredients, and for ideas for how to take advantage of those changes to produce delicious food, let's look at the specific examples below, each of which has an accompanying recipe.
Roasted Frozen Sweet PotatoesVicky WasikMy favorite application of this idea is also one of the simplest. During the winter, in many East Asian cities, including Hong Kong, where I grew up, you’ll find roasted sweet potato vendors parked on street corners. On one end of a small cart is a massive wok filled with pebbles, heated with coal. The vendor continually tosses the pebbles in the wok along with sweet potatoes to produce beautifully caramelized wok-roasted sweet potatoes with bright, fluffy flesh and a thin, papery, toasted skin. In cities with colder climates, the vendors are able to consistently achieve this cloud-like texture by first freezing the whole sweet potatoes before they’re roasted, either by allowing them to naturally freeze on the cart in ambient sub-zero temps or, in at least in a few cases I know of in Hong Kong, by deliberately placing them in a freezer.
As the sweet potato freezes, the water that’s inside the sweet potato forms ice crystals, which have sharp and jagged edges that puncture the cell walls of the flesh, altering the texture of the potato such that when it's roasted, it comes out more tender and fluffy. Based on further testing of this technique by Tim Chin (spoiler: he found this freeze-roast method produces the most delicious bakes sweet potato by far), there's an added benefit to the freezing step. By lowering the potato's starting temperature and then roasting it while still frozen, the potato spends even more time in a very special temperature zone between 135°F to 170°F (57°C to 76°C), the temperature range in which a natural enzyme in the potato called amylase starts working overtime to convert complex starches into sweet maltose sugar. This is something Kenji takes advantage of in his roasted sweet potato and mashed sweet potato recipes as well.
The result is a gorgeously roasted sweet potato with a deep sweetness and a texture reminiscent of sweet potato pie. It's wonderful eaten straight out-of-hand, but I also whipped up a simple but flavorful presentation in which the roasted frozen sweet potato is topped with light and tangy whipped creme fraiche and sprinkled with granola.
I've found that this technique works best on sweeter varieties of sweet potatoes, such as purple-fleshed sweet potatoes or Carolina ruby yams, where the naturally high moisture content exaggerates the effect of the freezing. On the flip side, roasting frozen white-fleshed Okinawan sweet potatoes (and regular Russet potatoes) isn't as effective.
Ice-Poached ("Cryo-Macerated") FruitsVicky WasikThe cuisine of Northeast China is deeply rooted in local agricultural practices, one of which is freezing fruits in the winter. One example of this are the Asian pears that are frozen and thawed repeatedly until the once-beige skins turn black and the interiors soften and burst with the juices.
The traditional way of eating the pear is to puncture the skin of the fruit with your teeth and suck up the natural syrup, after which you can eat the fruit in larger bites. The freezing and thawing process transforms the pear, picked when it's hard and sour, into a delight on its own. It still retains its raw pear flavor and tastes almost impossibly fresh, but its texture is soft, with a slight crispness, as if it had been expertly poached.
What happens within the pear is similar to what happens within the sweet potato, but of course the pears aren't subsequently cooked. However, the repeated freezing and thawing causes large, slow-forming ice crystals to break apart the cell walls in the fruit flesh, releasing flavor compounds and sugars. The process also damages the skin, causing it to oxidize (and thus blacken), but the skin remains intact, and I've found that it naturally protects the fruit flesh from freezer burn, making it possible to leave the pears in the freezer for several months with no ill effects. To borrow a term from wine making that describes freezing grapes before fermentation to weaken the skins and extract more tannin and flavor, the pear is effectively “cryo-macerated.”
The technique use for cryo-macerated or ice-poached pears is used for other fruits in Northeast China. Persimmons, peaches, and cherries are all subjected to a similar process to create snacks that are now eaten year around. And the technique has wide applications, such as in my more composed recipe for the ice-poached pears: it's a take on “poached” pears served with a light syrup, in this case flavored with Chinese medicinal ingredients like goji berries, apricot kernels, and osmanthus.
To expand on this idea outside of traditional Chinese cuisine, one can imagine freezing fruits like apples, plums, and apricots to jumpstart the process of extracting sweetness and flavor from them as well, without having to cook them down, for raw jams, jellies, cobblers, or desserts.
Ultra-Absorbent Frozen TofuVicky WasikIn a savory context, frozen tofu is a popular example of altering the texture of an ingredient by freezing it. Frozen tofu takes on a yellow hue and a more porous texture, which not only gives the tofu chewiness and a meat-like bounce, but also a sponge-like quality that allows it to absorb liquids and deliver more flavor in every bite. The effect is achieved, once again, with the help of ice crystals, which expand as they form, tearing apart the tofu's coagulated protein structure. When the tofu thaws, the water drains out through this web of lacerations, leaving tiny pockets of air throughout.
To enhance this effect, it's best to gently squeeze the thawed tofu between your hands, expressing even more water and increasing the tofu's absorptive potential while concentrating the flavor of the tofu itself.
Frozen tofu is eaten most often in hot pots, braises, soups, and saucy dishes where the spongy texture can soak up the cooking liquid. Even in the simplest of liquids, as in my recipe for frozen tofu simmered with Napa cabbage, pork, and a little ginger and garlic, the tofu becomes juicy and substantial in a way that fresh tofu simply won't.
Cryo-Blanching VegetablesSerious Eats / J. Kenji Lopez-AltBlanching vegetables involves very quickly boiling them in salted water until just tender, then shocking them in ice water to chill them down and stop the cooking. The idea is to tenderize the vegetables and cook them just enough while retaining their fresh flavor and bright green color. The freezer, as it turns out, can be used to similar effect.
By freezing thin vegetables such as string beans, peas, asparagus and more, ice crystals quickly form, puncturing cell walls to create a like-cooked texture while maintaining a fresh raw flavor. Read more about the science of the technique here.
Cryo-Shucking ClamsSerious Eats / Aki Kamozawa and H. Alexander TalbotShucking clams by hand takes a little practice before it becomes a quick and easy process, but even for those who are adept at it, shucking a large number of clams is still a chore. Luckily, the freezer can be put to good use here, and all it takes is a little advanced prep. By placing live clams in a freezer, the cold itself kills them. Once frozen, all you have to do is wait for the clams to defrost and they'll pop open one by one, ready for you to use in whatever dish you desire.
This doesn't make sense to use in all clam-cooking scenarios, since you can also open clams by cooking them, but in any instance where you want to cook the clam meat without the shells, it's a great technique to have in your pocket.
Other ApplicationsThese are just a few examples of how freezers can be used to manipulate both the texture and flavor of foods. When considering how else to use the freezer in similar ways, it's helpful to keep in mind two (related) effects freezing has on ingredients—softening and moisture loss—to determine whether using the freezer might be a good idea.
When considering softening, ask yourself whether there's likely to be any benefit to achieving a looser, more tender, and potentially spongier texture. Root vegetables like beets and taro, for example, might benefit from the softening effects of the freezer, as that’s the ultimate texture we usually look for. But leafy greens, cabbage, or Brussels sprouts, on the other hand, would become limp and unappealing for a stir-fry in which you want the vegetables to retain a bit of crispness.
As for moisture loss, it's an inevitable effect when freezing most ingredients, thanks to all that cellular damage from the ice crystals. While it works wonders with sweet potatoes, pears, tofu, and more, it can be a problem with ingredients like meats, where you want to retain as much moisture as possible. If in doubt, though, remember that there's little harm in experimentation. You may just stumble upon an entirely new way to prepare and enjoy one of your favorite foods.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeIf you have an air fryer, chicken is likely one of the first things you cooked in the device. There’s no doubt that the air fryer is a quick and easy way to make chicken, but all too often that chicken is dry and bland, especially when you’re dealing with lean breasts. We know from testing recipes that you can’t simply throw meat into an air fryer and expect it to come out juicy and flavorful, so we asked our test kitchen colleague and veteran recipe developer Julia Levy to come up with what we described as a basic method for air-fryer chicken breasts that are perfectly cooked, flavorful, and juicy—juiciness being key. Through numerous tests and tweaks, Levy did just that. Read on for the basic recipe, tips for getting the moistest, most flavorful chicken in the air fryer, and five variations on the basic recipe, including miso-ginger, chipotle-lime, and Dijon-thyme.
3 Simple Tips for the Best Air-Fryer Chicken BreastsChoose bone-in, skin-on breasts. While boneless, skinless chicken breasts are convenient, we recommend using bone-in skin-on chicken breasts for the most succulent results. With a device that cooks things as quickly as an air fryer, the tiny bit of extra cooking time doesn’t make enough of a difference to forgo the bones and the pay-off in terms of tendernessand beautifully browned chicken is high. Plus, you get crispy skin! If that’s not your thing, first, we need to talk… And, second, you can always remove the skin after cooking.
Dry-brine the breasts for juicier, more flavorful meat. We’re longtime proponents of dry brining—it’s a simple process that makes for much juicier, more flavorful meat, and, unlike wet brining, it doesn’t involve a vat of liquid sloshing around in your fridge. In this recipe, we call for simply rubbing the meat with a combination of kosher salt and baking powder, then letting it sit for a minimum of four hours in the fridge.
Add some baking powder to the dry brine for crispy skin. As we’ve noted before (see Niki Achitoff-Gray’s article about crispy chicken and turkey skin), baking powder is slightly alkaline and raises the pH level in the chicken skin. This allows proteins to break down more efficiently, leading to crispier, evenly browned skin. Achitoff-Gray notes that as the baking powder comes together with the bird's natural juices, carbon dioxide gases form, producing "a layer of tiny bubbles" that "increase the skin's surface area, allowing it to develop a crunchy texture once cooked."
Save the schmaltz. If you have drippings in the bottom of the air fryer after cooking, save it for roasting potatoes, making matzo balls, and any other recipe where you want some tasty chicken-y flavor.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeBrine Chicken: Place chicken breasts on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet. Using paper towels, pat chicken dry. Rub chicken all over with salt and baking powder. Refrigerate skin-side up, uncovered, for at least 4 and up to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazePreheat a 6-quart air fryer to 370°F (190ºC) for 3 minutes. Rub chicken all over with olive oil, black pepper, and desired seasoning, if using (see below for variations).
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazePlace chicken in preheated basket, skin-side down, and cook until chicken has reached an internal temperature of 110°F (43ºC), about 15 minutes. Using tongs, flip chicken skin-side up, and continue cooking at 370°F until chicken skin is golden-brown and crackly and internal temperature is 155°F (68ºC), 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer from air fryer to a cutting board and let rest about 10 minutes before slicing and serving. (Temperature of chicken will continue to rise to 165°F.)
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeVariationsLemon-Pepper: In a small bowl, whisk together 1 1/2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest (from 1 large lemon), 1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder, 1/4 teaspoon onion powder until combined. Rub all over chicken before cooking.
Miso-Ginger: In a small bowl, whisk together 4 teaspoons white miso paste, 4 teaspoons freshly grated ginger, and 1 tablespoon finely grated garlic until combined. Rub all over chicken before cooking.
Dijon-Thyme: In a small bowl, whisk together 4 teaspoons Dijon mustard, 2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme, and 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest until well-combined. Rub all over chicken before cooking.
Za’atar-Mint: In a small bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons za’atar (homemade or store-bought), 4 teaspoons minced fresh mint, 1 teaspoon granulated garlic, and 2 tablespoons (30ml) extra-virgin olive oil until well-combined. Rub all over chicken before cooking.
Chipotle-Lime: In a small bowl, whisk together 4 teaspoons chipotle chile powder, 2 teaspoons finely grated lime zest (from 2 limes), 2 teaspoons light brown sugar, and 1 teaspoon ground cumin until well-combined. Rub all over chicken before cooking.
Special EquipmentWire rack, rimmed baking sheet, 6-quart air fryer, instant-read thermometer, tongs
Make-Ahead and StorageChicken breasts can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to four days.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI once spent a summer in Norway as a teenager, so I know firsthand the experience of unending daylight. Looking back, I can imagine how those sunlit nights might inspire a person living there full time to drink a lot of coffee. Then again, I could also imagine the interminable darkness of winter driving an equally heavy need to caffeine. Actually, I don't need to imagine it, I can confirm it—Nordic countries consistently dominate lists of worldwide coffee consumption.
When you drink that much coffee, it's inevitable that boredom with the same old cup of Josef, as they'd maybe (probably don't) say in Scandinavian tongues, would lead to innovation. That kind of coffee inventiveness is how espresso tonic came to be. Today the iced drink has worldwide fame and is a popular item on coffee shop menus everywhere, and it all supposedly started in 2007 after a couple of coffee pros from Koppi Roasters in Sweden got to playing with some leftover tonic.
My own relationship with home-pulled espresso started several months ago, after I received a Gaggia Classic espresso machine through work for longterm testing. I was lucky enough to get a one-on-one espresso brewing lesson from none other than Jesse Raub, my former Serious Eats colleague and coffee pro extraordinaire. As much as I love the straight shots of espresso I can now pull whenever I remember to preheat my machine, I too have been seeking more ways to drink them. While steamed milk for cappuccinos and cortados is always a pleasure, when the warm weather sets in, iced drinks beckon, and espresso tonics are one great option for that.
On the surface, an espresso tonic couldn't be simpler—all you're really doing is combining espresso and tonic on ice—but as with simple things, the devil lies in the details. I called up Jesse to get some tips on making a better espresso tonic. "One thing with espresso tonic is that the good versions are almost always slightly churched up," he told me, suggesting I think about it like constructing a cocktail. This could mean, for example, blending the base ingredients into a pleasant ratio and then adding an aromatic ingredient and/or sweetener for balance and interest.
The combination of espresso and tonic on their own is a particularly compelling one. The tonic offers its carbonated fizz, of course, which, when chilled, makes for a very refreshing drink. Tonic is also a very well balanced soda, with a sweetness that isn't cloying matched with a light quinine bitterness. All in all, it integrates beautifully with the bitter edge of coffee.
Still, there are some things to consider for a better espresso tonic. These tips and serving ideas come via Jesse as well as things I've thought up during testing or come across as I've tasted espresso tonic variants at coffee shops whenever I've seen them.
Answers to the Most Pressing Questions About Espresso Tonics What's the best coffee for espresso tonic? "An espresso tonic is probably not going to taste great with a traditional dark roasted espresso blend," says Jesse. "Those are chocolatey and roasty, but for this drink you want a coffee that's more fruit forward and floral. Ethiopian coffees work really well." If in doubt, check the flavor and roasting notes on the coffee bag; they should indicate whether the beans are more in that darkly roasted territory you'd want to avoid or not. A fruity, slightly more acidic coffee will generally pair better with the sweet-bitter notes of tonic. * Does the tonic matter? As one of your only two main ingredients, the tonic does indeed matter. I'm a big fan of the Fever Tree brand tonic waters and often drink them in place of sweeter sodas at home, though feel free to use whatever your preferred brand is. Just make sure to chill your tonic before building the drink. If you pour room-temp tonic on ice, it'll just melt more of the ice faster, diluting the drink prematurely. * What are the best ratios of tonic to espresso? This is largely a question of personal preference and will also depend on the flavors of the tonic and espresso you're using, though in my testing I've found that I prefer a more generous pour of the tonic water relative to the espresso. My recipe below calls for four times as much tonic to espresso by volume, though this should be considered a rough starting point, not a hard rule. * Can I use another kind of coffee instead of espresso? Yes, you can experiment with other strongly brewed coffees, such as cold brew or Aeropress coffee, though ratios may shift depending on what you use. * To float or not?* One popular way to serve this drink is with the espresso "floated" on top of the tonic, so that there's separation visible through the glass. This has an effect on the experience of tasting the drink as well, since the initial sips will be espresso-heavy and then it will transition to more tonic as you get deeper into it. You can alternatively blend the two so that the drink is more balanced and consistent from beginning to end. There's no right answer here; the float looks cool and may be appealing to some drinkers, whereas the blended version may appeal to others. The photos in this article show it as a float because it looks nice, but I personally lean more towards blending the drink for that consistent balance of flavors. If you do want to make the float, add the tonic to the glass first, then gently pour the shot on top; you can use a spoon to help break the fall of the espresso as it goes into the glass, reducing the degree to which it mixes into the tonic, though I've also noticed that the tonic's carbonation helps prevent mixing all on its own, the bubbles pushing up against the espresso as it enters the glass.
Flavoring Variations for Espresso TonicThe basic combination of espresso and tonic is really a blank slate, but, as Jesse said to me, "there are ways to make a much more compelling recipe than just espresso and tonic on their own." That doesn't mean the recipe has to be complicated, it's possible you're already sitting on ingredients that would lend themselves to a more spruced-up version of the drink.
One thing you will likely want to add is a touch more sweetness to your glass on top of whatever the tonic itself is delivering. The best way to do this is with a splash of simple syrup—equal parts by volume of sugar dissolved in water. Syrups, though, lend themselves to flavorings. Here are some flavoring ideas to consider, whether in syrup, garnish, or extract form:
- Oleo-Saccharum: This syrup made by macerating lemon rinds in sugar is often an excellent match for espresso and tonic (just think of all those lemon peels served alongside espresso in Italy).
- Floral Syrups: You can infuse food-grade flowers like lavender, jasmine, and lilac into simple syrup (see our lavender simple syrup recipe for the basic technique), and then add those floral notes the the drink. You can also take a shortcut by adding a drop or two of orange flower water or rose water to simple syrup.
- Fruity Syrups: The fruity notes of coffee make a fruit-flavored syrup a good idea. We have recipes for cherry pit syrup, pineapple syrup, and mango syrup to get you started.
- Maple Syrup: No need to make a syrup from scratch—maple syrup tastes great in this drink. While I haven't tried them, you could also play with other syrups. Would a touch of Lyle's Golden Syrup work? A judicious drop of molasses? Honey? Maybe, I don't know, but it'd be fun to try.
- Extracts: A dash of good-quality vanilla in extract or paste form or almond extract would all add interest to the drink.
- Citrus Wedges and Peels: The aromatic oils of citrus peel can add significant aroma and flavor the the drink with little effort. A lemon peel twist is great, though grapefruit is another pitch-perfect flavor for espresso tonic. And of course you could add a wedge for a bit of the juice as well.
Use the above ideas as a jumping off point, then look around your kitchen and see what else might be fun to try.
Fill a large glass with ice. Add tonic water to glass. Brew espresso and pour on top. Sweeten to taste (about 1/2 teaspoon at a time) with syrup and/or add more tonic to taste, if desired. Garnish with lemon peel, if desired. Serve right away.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNotesTonic water is already sweetened, so whether you want additional sweetness, and how much, is up to you. This drink is highly adaptable, so feel free to play with syrups with different flavor profiles: While simple syrup is neutral, other options like oleo-saccharum (lemon syrup), maple syrup, and more can work great.
Garnishes and flavorings are similarly optional. Lemon peel pairs nicely with this drink, but a couple drops of orange flower water, grapefruit zest, and many other flavorings are possible. Have fun with it!
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhat is oleo-saccharum? First, let's dissect the word itself. Oleo: oil or fat. Saccharum: sugar. So literally, the word itself simply means oily sugar, or perhaps more appetizingly, sugared oil.
Oleo-saccharum is an ingredient in cocktails and punches that was relatively commonly used in 19th-century bartending as a way to provide an elegantly citrusy flavor and aroma to alcoholic beverages. (For more about the history and use, I recommend David Wondrich's book Punch.)
How do you make this elixir? It's simple, really.
First, zest a few lemons, leaving behind most of the white pith. I find that a vegetable peeler is the best tool for this job.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd sugar. White is easiest to use because it will dissolve quickly when you're ready to mix the oleo-saccharum into a punch or other beverage. Wondrich calls for two ounces sugar for each lemon's worth of peel. So if you peel four lemons, use eight ounces sugar. Honestly, though, I usually just eyeball this.
I like to use my hands at this point to gently toss the sugar into the peels. Then, using a mortar and pestle, muddler, or a heavy wooden spoon, pound the lemon peels and sugar until the peels begin to express their oils. Walk away from it for at least half an hour. An hour would be better. Overnight is best.
After enough time, you'll have a bunch of lemon peels in the bowl, but a nice amount of lemon oil also, pooled up in the bottom of the bowl.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezYou can drain the syrup and save it separately from the quick-candied peels, or leave them together.
What you do with it at this point is up to you. You can certainly use it in punch, and your loved ones will rightly deem you a hero and inspiration. Equally lovely, though, is to use it as a basis for lemonade. When my wife was pregnant, I'd serve her glasses full of this flavorful lemonade rich with lemon oils all summer long. It gave her something to enjoy while I crassly tossed back martinis, daiquiris, and other boozy treats.
Other alcohol-free uses include adding it as a sweetener for iced tea, as an ingredient in vinaigrette, or as an ice-cream topping. Oleo-saccharum is so versatile, in fact, that it deserves to occupy a much wider place in a home cook's arsenal of techniques and condiment shelf.
In a medium bowl or mortar and pestle, muddle lemon rinds with sugar until lemon oils begin to be expelled.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLet stand, stirring occasionally, until a fragrant syrup forms, at least 1 hour and up to 1 day. Transfer oleo-saccharum to a container (either first straining peels out or leaving them in) and refrigerate until ready to use.
Make-Ahead and StorageOleo-saccharaum can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 3 weeks.
Serious Eats / Qi AiIn my neck of the woods (the coniferous wonderland that is the Pacific Northwest), when you find freshly steamed Dungeness crabs, the best way to savor their sweet, ocean-kissed flesh is quite simple: armed with a cracker and a pick and a healthy supply of drawn butter, lemon wedges, and maybe a ramekin of cocktail sauce, or a bottle of fermented hot sauce. They're a pricey splurge on par with live lobsters and dry-aged steaks, and the preciousness of Dungeness practically demands a spartan approach. Picking a pricey crab to make cakes (delicious though they may be) seems like a time-consuming absurdity.
Of course, finding live Dungeness changes the game entirely. Dishes like chili crab and cioppino are perfect ways to celebrate this rare occurrence, as cutting up and simmering the crustacean in a flavorful broth or sauce results in a dish that feels worthy of the expenditure. The crab's shell and juices flavor the cooking liquid, and the cooking liquid seasons the crabmeat (if you lightly crack each claw and limb to permit this magical intermingling).
Sweet, savory blue crabs are a completely different—but no less special—ingredient, which Serious Eats editorial director Daniel Gritzer has exhaustively covered in his recipes(his mom was a Maryland native and he's an honorary Marylander, as least as far as crabs are concerned). Whether you're planning on a big, messy crab feast or preparing an elegant dinner of sautéed soft-shell crab for two, we've got you covered.
Finally, for those of you starting with picked crabmeat, we have plenty of delicious ideas for how to make the most of it, from crab cakes and puffs to molten, breadcrumb-topped dips and spicy vodka-spiked pasta.
Crab Rangoon (Crab Puffs) With Sweet and Sour SauceSerious Eats / Qi AiJ. Kenji López-Alt's homemade crab puffs turn out crisp and bubbly, with a molten center of oozy, tangy cream cheese, scallions, and crab. Serve with your favorite cocktail and other apps like coconut shrimp.
Stone Crab Claws With Mustard Dipping SauceSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezWe're conflicted about this Florida specialty. Stone crab claws were once considered to be a sustainable, low-impact option for crab lovers. After revisiting the subject in 2022, Daniel found studies that paint a dire picture of the fishery's harvesting practices and its ecological health. If you do manage to source sustainably harvested stone crab claws, we recommend serving them with a zesty mayo-based sauce seasoned with horseradish, Dijon mustard, hot sauce, and lemon juice. The sauce is also delicious with other types of crab, as well as boiled shrimp, so you can check for sustainable options on Seafood Watch and make a match.
Singaporean Chili CrabSerious Eats / Yvonne RupertiChili crab is messy and delicious in nearly equal measure. With Yvonne Ruperti's recipe, deliciousness wins the day: Dungeness crabs are cut up and cooked in a sweet, salty, and spicy tomato-chile sauce. The biggest hurdle here is getting your hands on live Dungeness crabs. If Dungeness is unavailable (or prohibitively expensive), Yvonne notes that any live crab can be substituted here, including soft-shell. For a similar take that's heavier on the spices, consider Denise Silva Sankh's recipe for crab masala fry.
Crispy Herbed Crab CakesSerious Eats / Julia EstradaKenji's take on crab cakes keeps the focus squarely on the flavor of fresh, in-season crab: no starchy binders, minimal seasoning, and only one side of crisp, golden panko crust. If you spent a lot of money on fresh, high-grade crabmeat, this is the purest way to serve it in cake form.
Maryland Crab CakesSerious Eats / Vicky WasikWhen it comes to crab cakes, Daniel has strong opinions:
"Unfortunately, people do all sorts of things to modify what is already a perfect crab cake. In some cases, they do it to save money [...] In others, they do it to make their version of the dish unique, or to make it seem fancier [...] The Maryland crab cake needs none of that, and it suffers at the hands of those who think it does."
Daniel's mother is from Maryland, and he faithfully upholds his family's culinary heritage with this deeply researched, no-nonsense recipe. The crab mixture has a carefully calibrated amount of mayo, bread crumbs, and classic seasonings, and the cakes are pan-fried without any breading.
Maryland Crab Imperial With Buttery Golden Bread CrumbsSerious Eats / Qi AiThink of this molten, bread crumb–topped crab dip as a lazy (or smart) cook's crab cake. Skip the patties and the pan-frying. Just mix together the crab, mayo, and seasonings, make buttered bread crumbs, assemble in a baking dish, and wait around for 20 minutes. Weekend readers take note: crab imperial eggs en cocotte is the perfect way to level up your brunch game with sweet jumbo crabmeat.
Thai-Style Crab Fried RiceSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltFragrant jasmine rice is seasoned with garlic and chiles, then tossed with scrambled egg, picked crabmeat, and scallions. To ensure the crab flavor dominates the dish, Kenji keeps seasonings to a minimum: a dash of white pepper, a splash of fish sauce, and some minced cilantro.
Seafood-Stuffed ShellsSerious Eats / Vicky WasikIf you're hankering for a baked pasta dish that eschews the usual mozzarella-ricotta–red sauce triumvirate, these stuffed shells are just the ticket. Packed with a creamy herbed filling made with lots of crab and a smattering of shrimp and scallops, these shells are baked to a perfect al dente in béchamel and topped with panko for extra crunch.
Maryland Crab FeastSerious Eats / Vicky WasikDaniel again draws on his Maryland culinary heritage to provide guidance for the uninitiated crab-eater. If you're looking to invest in a half-bushel of blue crabs to share with friends and family over a newspaper-covered table, this recipe and crab-picking primer is for you. For a more minimalist approach, see Fiona Reilly's Shanghainese recipe, which pairs steamed crabs with a dipping sauce made with Chiankiang vinegar, brown sugar, and thin matchsticks of ginger.
Sautéed Soft-Shell Crabs With Lemon-Butter Pan SauceSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThese fried soft-shell crabs are topped with a quick lemon–brown butter pan sauce with capers and parsley. A light dredge in seasoned flour gives the crabs a crunchy crust without making them stodgy.
Classic Fried Soft-Shell Crab Sandwiches With Lettuce and TomatoSerious Eats / Vicky WasikRuminating on what makes a seafood sandwich truly memorable, Daniel concludes that "the greatest versions are almost always the simplest: little more than soft bread, lettuce, tomato, and a mayo-based condiment to accompany the main ingredient." The result of taking a light hand with the batter and components is a satisfying sandwich that does not overpower the crab's delicate texture and flavor. If you prefer your crab sandwich in a more zhuzhed-up form, check out this butter-sautéed version, served on rustic sliced bread with a basil-flecked tomato salsa, or this bahn mi-inspired sandwich.
Pasta With Crab, Tomato, and ChilesSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltIn this quick recipe, fresh pasta and a pound of fresh crabmeat are tossed in a creamy, spicy vodka sauce and topped with crunchy herbed bread crumbs. A thinly sliced fresh red chile is added along with the crab, which gives the dish a pleasant kick.
Cioppino (San Francisco Seafood Stew)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIf you're in the mood for a seafood extravaganza, this is the show-stopping stew for you. Daniel's rendition of this classic San Franciscan fisherman's stew combines Pacific delicacies like halibut and Dungeness crab with mussels, shrimp, and crab in a full-flavored broth rich with homemade seafood stock as well as fennel, tomato, Calabrian chiles, and white wine.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNo, the Bloody Caesar is not related to the Caesar salad. And if you initially thought it was, then you probably aren’t from Canada. The Bloody Caesar, also known as just the Caesar, is Canada’s answer to the Blood Mary. The cocktail is so popular in Canada that the drink was officially named Canada’s National Cocktail by Canada’s parliament in 2009, according to the Toronto Sun. The building blocks for both of these popular brunch cocktails are similar: a vodka base, tomato juice, Worcestershire, a blend of spices, and a kick of heat. But the Bloody Caesar goes a step further with added clam juice, for a whiff of brininess that marries with the tomato juice and other ingredients for a balanced and bright tasting cocktail that’s perfect for brunch.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Bloody Caesar dates back to 1969, and was invented by Walter Chell at the Calgary Inn in Calgary, Alberta, Canada. According to the Canadian Encyclopedia, Chell was asked to create a drink in celebration of the inn's new Italian restaurant. He drew inspiration from spaghetti alle vongole, a pasta dish made with clams. Chell mashed clams to produce “clam nectar” and mixed it with tomato juice and spices. The final formulation included vodka, tomato juice, clam juice, Worcestershire sauce, and a blend of savory spices. The cocktail is now typically made with Clamato—a commercially made blend of tomato juice, clams, and savory spices—instead of a blend of fresh clam juice and tomato juice. It’s a wonderfully savory eye-opener that’s the perfect balance of sweet, spicy, tart, and umami all in one sip. Here’s how to make one so good, you’ll see why Canadians love it.
Tips for Making a Brunch-Worthy Bloody Caesar at HomeSkip the Clamato. OK, some die-hard Bloody Caesar fans might gasp at my recommendation to skip the standard mixer in a Bloody Caesar. For a large scale busy bar that’s serving hundreds of these cocktails a day, using this commercially made tomato and clam juice blend makes sense: It’s shelf stable and already blended, minimizing the amount of prep needed to make a high volume of drinks to order. But for making a small batch at home, I urge you to use a combination of canned tomato juice and a high-quality bottled clam juice, which will add a more assertive briny flavor than premixed Clamato (I like to use Bar Harbor). I promise you the mixed drink will not taste overtly clammy. The broth adds a savory and refreshing backbone to the drink. Of course, if you simply can’t part with your Clamato, you don’t have to. Just swap in 3 3/4 cups Clamato for the tomato and clam juice, and omit the granulated sugar and optional MSG.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUp the umami. What makes a Bloody Caesar so great is its complexity. It has an intense level of umami in each sip. To create a seriously savory Bloody Caesar at home, add Worcestershire sauce (which is an ingredient in most recipes for the drink), but go a step further and add a couple of less expected ingredients to the mix for the most piquant cocktail possible. The first is fish sauce. You won’t be able to distinguish the fish sauce flavor in the final drink—it just enhances the briny, savory appeal.
Secondly, I recommend adding MSG to the mix. I got the idea of adding MSG from the ingredient label on bottled Clamato mix itself. It's what gives Clamato its signature savory flavor, so it made sense to add a small amount to my home recipe. The MSG is optional, but having tasted batch after batch of this brunch cocktail, I found that the flavor in the versions with just a pinch of MSG always tasted better seasoned, with a welcome meaty undertone that made me want sip after sip. A sprinkle of dried oregano and garlic powder round out the drink with an earthy flavor, and while optional, I like to add a few dashes of Tabasco and freshly cracked black pepper to my drink when serving for a touch of heat.
Go all out with the garnishes. Perhaps the best part of a Bloody Caesar (and a Bloody Mary!) is the bounty of garnishes. The drink is big and bold, and the garnish should be, too. Consider a Bloody Caesar a form of individual expression and follow your creative urge wherever it takes you. I like to garnish mine with spicy pickled green beans (try it, trust me), green stuffed olives, a wedge of lemon or lime, and a cocktail shrimp hanging over the edge of the rim. But any salty little bites speared onto toothpicks or floating in the drink are sure to enhance the drink. There’s no wrong way to garnish a Bloody Caesar, and the result is a drink so satisfying, you might never make a Bloody Mary again.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Bloody Caesar mix: In a large pitcher, whisk tomato juice, bottled clam juice, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, fish sauce, sugar, oregano, garlic powder, and MSG, if using, until combined. Season to taste with salt. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours or up to 2 days.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the cocktail: Fill glasses with ice. Add 3/4 cup (6 fluid ounces) Bloody Caesar mix, 3 tablespoons (1½ fluid ounces) vodka, a dash of Tabasco (if using) and a pinch of black pepper (if using) to each glass and stir to combine. Top with your preferred garnishes as desired. Serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentLarge pitcher, serving glasses
Notes3 3/4 cups Clamato can be substituted for the tomato and clam juice. If using Clamato, omit the optional monosodium glutamate (MSG).
Make-Ahead and StorageThe Bloody Caesar mix can be made through step 1 and refrigerated for up to 2 days.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreFew spaces illustrate the whole “work smarter, not harder” principle quite like the kitchen. Even the most casual culinary endeavors take time. Meals of all varieties require lots of prep—garlic peeled, lemons juiced, fish fileted, chicken brined—before you’ve even preheated the oven. Not to mention the grocery shopping, the constant stirring and simmering, the clean-up. Fortunately, however, there is time (and fury) to be salvaged using a good gadget. What if your pepper mill out-ground all the others? If your grater out-grated? Your blender out-blended?
The truth is, for busy cooks in hectic kitchens, great gear equals easier (and better) cooking. Think: the food processor pureeing your sauce to its optimal viscosity, the meat thermometer cautioning you against overcooking, the humble food storage container preserving the freshness of your ingredients. So, in the interest of saving your time and, well, your dinner, here’s a list of some of our most beloved, tried-and-tested kitchen gadgets and tools to keep on hand.
Our Favorite Kitchen GadgetsPlenty of espresso machines come with exorbitant price tags and an absurdly complicated array of bells and whistles. We assure you, however, that this particular Breville model, which clocks in at under $500 (reasonable, frankly, in the grand scheme of espresso machines) is plenty user-friendly. In fact, it makes it difficult to pull a bad espresso shot, even for folks who refuse to consult their instruction manuals.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonRanked as our #1, failsafe instant-read thermometer (when put to the test against a whopping 17 other options), the Thermapen ONE proved itself the meat thermometer to end all meat thermometers. Thanks to its one-second response time (we can attest it’s true to its name), this thing will indeed give you an instant read. Plus, it has a 360-degree auto-rotating screen with a backlight for visibility.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWhen you’re shopping for a manual pasta maker, you’re only in the market for two things: ease and functionality. And as far as manually operated machines go, you’ll find few models more capable of producing brilliantly thin dough, with perfect, pristine, clean-cut edges. Plus, our team found this Marcato machine notably smooth, steady, and simple to use.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreYes, it’s a bit of a steep price for your drip coffee maker, but here’s the thing: It makes really good coffee. And frankly, if you start brewing at home rather than purchasing a daily drip at your local cafe, it’ll pay for itself in no time. This thing has precision temperature settings, fast brew times, a built-in bloom cycle, and comes with a 5-year warranty. But just to reiterate…the prime reason we’re championing this machine is its brewing abilities.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyOur favorite coffee grinder for most people (read: notsuper techy) is a perennial Serious Eats favorite. It has a twist top that allows one to easily change the settings, grinds consistently, and is reasonably priced at under $100.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreAn Instant Pot is a jack-of-all-trades. It can pressure cook, slow cook, and sauté. It can cook rice, make yogurt, steam, and bake cakes. Per our tests, this model sautéed and browned better (and faster) than its competitors. It has a pressure release switch and silicone handles designed to stay cool, so you won’t burn yourself even when moving the pot.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikAs far as our blender research goes (and it goes quite far), the Vitamix 5200 simply has no competition. A true workhorse, the thing is designed to last—and there’s no food too fibrous or dense to deter its blades. Producing reliably creamy results with easy-to-use settings, the thing will easily replace any and all blending or food processing tools in your kitchen. Plus, it stays cool and quiet, no matter the task at hand.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreOur favorite sous vide machine is exceedingly accurate, which is the name of the immersion circulator game. It heats up a water bath quickly, too, and has an app that’s packed with recipes and helpful videos (including how to clean it).
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThe storage container cabinet can be a scary place, rife with mismatched lids and chaotic stacks of takeout containers. That being said, when it comes to dry good storage, keeping your grains, pastas, flours, and the like dry and safe from pests is essential. These Rubbermaid vessels have super secure, tight lids—and the narrow containers are easy to Tetris efficiently into any pantry setup.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyFor those unfamiliar with the world of food mills, these hand-cranked contraptions are used for puréeing and straining soft produce. Not only can they produce optimally fluffy mashed potatoes (with limited time and effort), but they can alsoseparate out skins and seeds (a boon for tomato sauce prep).
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayIf you use garlic in the kitchen as much as we do, a reliable garlic press can be helpful. Throughout our testing, this Dreamfarm model proved endlessly low-effort to use and produced garlic that was comparable in texture to hand-minced cloves. Plus, in the interest of avoiding messy hands and sticky, difficult-to-clean utensils, it also has a scrape, loosen, and eject system built into the hinges.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubYou’re either a rice cooker person, or you’re not—and for the latter folks, it’s likely that you just haven’t been converted yet. Yes, you can cook rice on a stovetop…but for low-effort, perfect rice, you simply can’t beat a rice cooker. Our favorite is this Hamilton Beach model, which punches far above its weight when it comes to price.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikFor sous vide or food prep (or even preventing freezer burn), a vacuum sealer is worth having around. Our favorite one has wet and dry settings and no refractory period. That’s the time between sealings, people!
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonA full-size food processor can be a hassle if you’re short on storage space. But this mini chopper—which still offers a generous four-cup bowl—is perfect for mincing olives for tapenade, processing garlic cloves, or chopping nuts without encroaching on all of your counter space. Plus, this machine offers chop and grind options, both of which are as speedy as they are effective. Also, the bowl and blade are detachable and easy to clean.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinAs the old adage goes: When life gives you lemons (or produce of any kind), purchase a juicer. This centrifugal countertop juicer is compact, but still strong enough to instantly liquify whole fruits and vegetables, all while separating and collecting pulp, skins, and seeds.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyHear us out: This strainer-meets-colander may look a little silly, but it’s multipurpose. It’s large enough to replace both your colander and slotted spoon, it’ll ensure that pasta can be transferred quickly (and evenly) from place to place while keeping your precious pasta water safe, and it can also be used to boil dumplings, poach eggs, blanch vegetables, or skim foam.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhether the wine is meant for cooking, the chef, or forthcoming dinner guests, a wine fridge will do wonders to keep your bottles in prime condition for drinking or aging, all while freeing up plenty of space in your actual fridge for items with shorter shelf lives. Designed to be super compact (we don’t all have space for a second refrigerator), this thing will store up to 18 bottles—a proper case and a half.
Serious Eats / Kristin KempaIt’s objectively fun to watch this can electric opener spin around, opening a can as it goes. It creates a safe, dull edge and works with a variety of cans, including squat tuna and 28-ounce whole, peeled tomatoes.
Serious Eats / Eric KingFAQsWhat are the best utensils to cook with? We recommend that every cook have a good pair of tongs, a fish spatula, a wooden spoon, a Microplane, a whisk, and kitchen shears, among other things. You can find more of our favorite utensils here.
How do I choose kitchen equipment? What a question! Given the wide, wide world of kitchen equipment, we recommend reading reviews from a trusted source that tests kitchen gear side by side to find the best products (like, ahem, Serious Eats). For some tools, like chef’s knives, it could be helpful to go to a store and pick them up to see how they feel in hand.
Why We’re the Experts* Eliza Dumais is a freelance writer who covers food, drink, and travel. She previously worked at Vice. * Serious Eats has been testing gear for more than a decade, so we know a thing or two about the best kitchen gadgets.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe sheer number of recipes in our archive that use coconut and coconut products attests to how versatile and beloved the ingredient is. In addition to fresh and desiccated coconut flesh, coconut milk, coconut cream, coconut water, coconut oil, and coconut vinegar are found in countless recipes on our site. In this recipe collection, we focus on newer coconut recipes for the most part, with a few golden coconut oldies thrown in for good measure. There are many more to choose from, including several Thai curries and vegan ice creams. So, if you're not seeing anything here that hits the spot, please do not let this list stop your search!
For those of you who are working with fresh coconuts, don't miss Daniel Gritzer's primer on how to open a coconut, or our step-by-step guide for making fresh coconut milk.
Savory RecipesChickpea, Coconut, and Cashew CurrySerious Eats / Andrew JanjigianThis curry is intensely flavored with garam masala and ginger, cooled by coconut milk, and studded with ground, toasted cashews.
Nasi Lemak (Malaysian Coconut Rice)Serious Eats / Michelle YipFrequently served with toppings like sambal tumis and dried anchovies, this coconut rice is a popular Malaysian breakfast.
Coconut ShrimpSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltHere, a crunchy, thick crust of panko and aromatic shredded coconut surrounds juicy, perfectly cooked shrimp.
Njahi (Kenyan Black Beans) in Coconut SauceSerious Eats / Vicky WasikIn this recipe, Kenyan njahi beans are cooked until tender, then finished in an aromatic coconut curry sauce. If you can't find njahi beans, generic black beans will work as well, with a slight modification to the recipe.
Tom Kha Gai (Thai Chicken Soup with Coconut and Galangal)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikDerek Lucci's recipe for this classic Thai soup balances coconut cream and chicken stock to create the perfect light-yet-creamy broth, infused with the flavors of galangal, lemongrass, chiles, and makrut lime leaves.
Bharazi (Pigeon Peas in Coconut Cream)Serious Eats / Jillian AtkinsonBharazi is a dish of pigeon peas simmered in coconut milk, typically served for breakfast along with mandazi, or sweet coconut donuts. If you're craving coconut, this is the perfect one-two punch: sop up coconut-simmered beans with coconut fritters.
Bicol Express (Filipino Stew With Pork, Coconut, and Chiles)Serious Eats / Rezel KealohaHere, chunks of pork shoulder are browned and then simmered with onion, garlic, ginger, coconut milk, and coconut cream. As the pork turns meltingly tender, the braising liquid reduces, becoming deliciously concentrated and caramelized.
Coconut- and Ají Amarillo–Braised ChickenSerious Eats / Vicky WasikIn this recipe from Sohla El-Waylly, aji amarillo paste and coconut milk transform a one-pot meal into a complex, flavorful dish.
Coconut ChutneySerious Eats / Vicky WasikSome sauces are too essential to the dishes they are served with to be categorized as mere condiments. Take this coconut chutney, which Sohla insists "Indian dishes like idlis and dosai would be naked without." Of course, this rich chutney is good on plenty of other items, including grilled fish and vegetables.
Sweet RecipesCoconut Cream PieSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezFilled with a rich custard and topped with whipped cream and toasted flaked coconut, this coconut cream pie is fragrant, nutty, and a delight to eat.
Chè Chuối (Vietnamese Banana, Tapioca, and Coconut Milk Dessert)Serious Eats / Vy TranThis delightfully rich and creamy coconut milk–based soup makes a great snack to satisfy a sugar craving or a heady dessert to cap off a meal.
Suman (Filipino Steamed Sticky Rice Cakes)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikSteaming coconut sticky rice cakes in banana leaf parcels gives the rice a tinge of green and imparts a floral fragrance. Serve with a generous sprinkle of muscovado sugar or a side of sweet, ripe mango. If you're fresh out of banana leaves or just short on time, stick with the classic Thai dessert of glutinous sticky rice, seasoned with salty-sweet coconut milk and served with tender, fragrant slices of mango.
Jamaican Cornmeal Porridge With Coconut and Condensed MilksSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerInfused with the flavors of nutmeg, vanilla, bay leaf, coconut, brown sugar, and condensed milk, this creamy Jamaican porridge is absolutely delicious.
Chocolate-Dipped Coconut MacaroonsSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThese macaroons are chewy on the inside, crunchy on the outside, and coconutty all the way through. If you're looking for a more chocolaty treat, try Yvonne Ruperti's recipe for double chocolate macaroons.
Biko (Filipino Sticky Rice Cake)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThis sticky and sweet rice cake gets a triple dose of coconut flavor, thanks to the coconut oil used to grease the pan, the muscovado–coconut milk caramel mixed in with the rice and glazed on top, and, finally, the crispy coconut curd crumbles that are sprinkled on each slice.
Pengat Pisang (Malaysian Banana Coconut Soup)Serious Eats / Michelle YipThis delightful Malaysian dessert with pleasantly chewy sago pearls, bananas, and coconut milk is the best kind of pick-me-up.
Kaya ToastSerious Eats / Michelle YipHere, kaya—a rich, velvety coconut jam with deep butterscotch notes—is layered with thick slabs of butter on toast for a sweet, tropical breakfast sandwich.
Triple Coconut CakeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikStella's description of this "regal beast" says it all: "three layers of fluffy cake, infused with natural coconut from the inside out, slathered in a creamy coconut frosting, drenched in caramelized white chocolate coconut ganache, and crusted over in toasted coconut. In short, layers upon layers of coconut flavor at every turn." What's not to like?
Ultra-Tropical Piña ColadaSerious Eats / Two BitesFor his take on this classic cocktail, Daniel freezes the pineapple and coconut milk first, which allows you to use less ice, leading to a more flavorful, less diluted drink. If you would prefer to enjoy this cocktail in a frozen, on-a-stick format, check out Kristina Razon's recipe for boozy piña colada popsicles.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRecipes for firecracker hot dogs (also called rocket dogs) started popping up on the internet circa 2011. (One of the earliest appearances seems to be from the now defunct Family Fun Magazine as a recipe for "rocket dogs" around 2011.) These social media darlings—hot dogs wrapped in pastry and baked until golden to look like little fireworks—are a fun concept for a Fourth of July barbecue or other summertime party. But I’ll let you in on a secret: While they look adorable, they don’t usually taste great. I set out to change that—and as the recipe below shows, I succeeded.
Tips for Memorable Firecracker Hot DogsSkip the canned dough and make a quick biscuit dough instead. Most of the recipes out there for firecracker hot dogs rely on store-bought doughs for ease. Canned refrigerated biscuit or croissant dough are most commonly called for, and a handful of recipes call for premade pie crust or breadstick dough. I don’t know if you’ve tasted a canned biscuit recently, but its appeal pretty much begins and ends with popping open the can. While it’s an understandable shortcut for a quick and easy dish like this, I knew a from-scratch biscuit dough would be a step up in buttery flavor and flakiness, and would still be easy to make, requiring just one bowl and a handful of pantry ingredients.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI found a recipe in the Serious Eats archives for honey biscuits that uses a simple one-bowl method, and I liked the idea of a sweet-salty biscuit dough to pair with the hot dogs. With some scaling and tweaking, this easy-to-make dough was perfect for wrapping the dogs (no wrestling of canned dough required), and a few quick folds and turns while shaping gave the pastry beautiful striated, ultra-flaky layers when baked.
Refrigerate the dough briefly for easier shaping. Briefly chilling the dough while making the glaze and skewering the hot dogs ensures the pastry keeps its shape and puffs into defined layers in the oven. The dough should be pliable and easy to stretch as you shape it. If the dough is too stiff straight from the fridge to wrap around the hot dogs easily, let it warm up a few minutes on the counter before trying again. Conversely, if the dough becomes too warm and sticky to handle as you assemble, chill it back down in the fridge for a few minutes before continuing shaping.
Add some fire with hot honey in the dough and a sweet-spicy glaze on the franks. To my mind, anything named “firecracker” should have a little kick to it. Since I already had honey in the mix for the biscuit dough, I wondered if switching to hot honey would turn up the heat. If you’re not familiar with it, hot honey from brands like Mike’s Hot Honey is chile-infused, resulting in a delightful sweet-spicy condiment (I looooooove it drizzled on pizza). Using it in the dough adds a tingle of spiciness.
To bring in even more flavor and heat, I created a sweet-spicy glaze to brush on the hot dogs before baking. I mixed yellow mustard (a classic hot dog accompaniment) with more hot honey and a touch of soy sauce to amplify the hot dogs' umami. The flavor was almost there, but a spoonful of sriracha added to the glaze really boosted the spiciness and rounded things out to take these dogs up and over the top. I offer a teaspoon range for the sriracha amount, so you can adjust depending on how spicy you like it. Taste the glaze and add more sriracha as you see fit.
In the oven, the glaze becomes slightly caramelized and offers a burnished, glossy sheen to the crisp pastry and the juicy hot dogs. Crowned with a flaky pastry star, these hot dog firecrackers are the perfect combination of salty, sweet, and spicy—in other words, these festive franks finally taste just as good as they look.
For the dough: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Spray parchment with cooking spray; set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt. In a small bowl, whisk milk and hot honey until well combined and honey is dissolved.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezScatter butter cubes over flour mixture. Using a pastry cutter or hands, cut or rub butter into flour until butter is the size of small peas. Add milk mixture and with a rubber spatula, gently mix until no dry flour remains and crumbly dough forms.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer dough to a floured work surface. Gently gather together into a cohesive mass, then press into a rough 6- by 4-inch rectangle and sprinkle with additional flour. Use a rolling pin to roll until about 1/2-inch thick (10- by 6-inch rectangle). Starting from the short end, fold the dough in thirds, like a letter. Rotate 1/4 turn, roll out to 1/2-inch thickness again (10 by 6-inch rectangle), and fold in thirds again, re-flouring surface and dough as needed. Roll into a 9 1/2- by 13-inch rectangle, about ¼-inch thick.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUse a chef’s knife or bench scraper to trim away ragged edges and form a 9- by 12-inch rectangle. Working from long side, cut six to eight 3/4-inch wide, 9-inch long strips from dough (depending on how many hot dogs you’re using).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUse a 2-inch star cookie cutter to cut 6 to 8 stars from remaining dough; discard scraps. You can also use any 2-inch cookie cutter shape of your choice, or omit the cookie cutter dough cut outs, if desired. Transfer dough strips and stars, if using, to a large plate and refrigerate for at least 10 minutes while preparing glaze and hot dogs.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the glaze and hot dogs: In a small microwave-safe bowl, whisk together hot honey, mustard, soy sauce, sriracha, and cornstarch. Microwave until bubbling, 30 to 60 seconds. Whisk to combine and set aside to cool slightly.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPat hot dogs dry with paper towels. Carefully push a 10-inch skewer all the way through each hot dog lengthwise, with about 2 inches of skewer sticking out at top.
Serious Eats. / Amanda SuarezStarting from the top, wrap 1 dough strip around each hot dog 3 times in a spiral, leaving 3/4-inch gaps in the spiral as you wrap and pressing the dough ends to the back of the hot dog to adhere. Place on the greased parchment-lined baking sheet with the star ends pointing in alternating directions and tucking the ends of dough strips underneath hot dogs. Slide star cutout onto end of each skewer.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUse a pastry brush to coat the tops and sides of the hot dogs, dough strips, and dough stars with honey mustardglaze, trying to avoid getting excess glaze on the parchment.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBake until biscuit strips are puffed and glaze is beginning to brown, 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer baking sheet to wire rack and let hot dogs cool slightly on sheet, 2 to 3 minutes. Use a thin metal spatula to gently loosen the hot dogs from the parchment and transfer to a serving platter. Serve warm.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentRimmed baking sheet, pastry blender, rolling pin, ruler, 2-inch star cookie cutter, 10-inch wooden skewers, pastry brush, wire rack.
NotesI developed this recipe with Mike’s Hot Honey; other brands of hot honey may vary in spiciness. If you can’t find hot honey, use regular honey and add ¼ teaspoon ground cayenne to the dough and the sauce in steps 2 and 6. For a mild version of this dish, you can use regular honey instead of hot honey and skip the sriracha in the sauce.
The from-scratch dough in this recipe is extra flaky and flavorful, but you can substitute strips of refrigerated canned biscuit or croissant dough instead for a shortcut option (if you must!). Do not use puff pastry dough; it won’t have enough time in the oven to cook through.
Different brands of hot dogs come in packages of varying quantities, but the dough and glaze will make enough for up to 8.
To get the best fit on the baking sheet, arrange the skewers with the star ends pointing in alternating directions.
If you’re feeding a crowd, you can easily double this recipe. Split the dough into two portions and roll each to the specified dimensions. Bake the assembled hot dogs on two baking sheets on the upper-middle and lower-middle racks in the oven, switching and rotating the trays halfway through baking.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe biscuit dough can be covered and refrigerated for up to 24 hours before using.
Serious Eats / Alli WaatajaEven as someone who grocery shops at a professional level (as a recipe developer and mom of two), I never considered owning a grocery cart—almost every store has them readily available. But when a food stylist friend showed off her Clax Trolley on TikTok, I immediately bought it. I assumed I’d mostly use it for the occasional on-location recipe shoot, but I find myself keeping my Clax Trolley in my car at all times; it gets unfolded and loaded all the time for regular grocery shopping and much more. I pull it out for the farmer’s market, for bulky Costco runs, and for grabbing plants and soil at the nursery. I once even used it for getting bulky winter blankets to and from the laundromat.
What Is the Clax Trolley? Clax Trolley bills itself as “a collapsible cart designed for a sustainable and functional lifestyle”. Created by the German Clax company, the cart was engineered as a tool for transporting goods through large, walkable cities. While Clax prides itself on versatility and “sturdy aluminum and Polypropylene-Copolymer construction,” the company’s ultimate goal is reducing its consumer’s carbon footprint by reducing the use of plastic bags and making shopping a task that doesn’t require a car.
It has two platform trays that can each hold one of Clax’s collapsible crates. (Only one crate is included with the cart, but additional Clax crates are available for purchase.) The lower tray can hold up to 88 pounds, making it perfect for large bags of flour and sugar or garden soil. The upper tray can accommodate a fully loaded crate (up to 44 pounds). It has a bungee cord locking system for holding the crate or large bulky items in place. If you need to move tall houseplants or long-handled paint supplies, the top tray even folds back to create an L-shaped cart with unlimited overhead room.
Rolling the cart around is a breeze even in tight places (looking at you, Target grocery aisles). It has two larger back wheels which makes it rugged and sturdy on gravel walkways like at the farmer’s market or the garden center. The wheels can be detached to make the folded cart even slimmer for storage—though I’ve never bothered.
Folding and unfolding the cart requires just the push of a button and one arm (great if you have a toddler on your hip). Even with the crate the Clax Trolley weighs under 20 pounds, and it's easy to lift into my trunk. The folded footprint of the cart is similar to a collapsed beach chair (about 22 x 28 inches) and, because it lays flat, you can stack other items on top of it.
How the Clax Trolley Has Changed My Grocery ShoppingSerious Eats / Meghan SplawnThe ability to skip bagging completely is one of my favorite features of the Clax Trolley; I can unload my groceries onto the checkout belt and reload them back into the Clax crate, remove the crate to transport it in my truck (folded cart beside it) and then trolley or carry the crate into my house. I love the crate so much that I bought a second one for the bottom tray.
I truly underestimated how much I’d love having a personal cart in general. On a particularly busy Sunday morning, I heard two other shoppers “oh” and “ah” over the Clax as I passed the empty cart stall inside the store. As a bonus, I don’t have to worry about sanitizing cart handles during cold and flu season.
I live in the suburbs now, but I wish I had the Clax Trolley when I resided in a more walkable city; it would have been ideal for walking to get groceries or going to the laundromat. For now, I’ll enjoy the simple ease of keeping it at the ready in my car's trunk.
FAQs What size is the Clax Trolley? The unfolded Clax Trolley is 22 inches wide and 40 inches tall. Folded with the wheels in place it measures 22 x 28 x 7 inches. Detaching the wheels will save you four inches in width and height.
Where is the Clax Trolley made? The Clax Trolley is made in Germany from “sturdy aluminum and Polypropylene-Copolymer construction.”
Does the Clax fit in the trunk of a car? It fits well in SUV, compact, and wagon-style car trunks. I have not tested the Clax Trolley in the trunk of something much smaller, like a Fiat.
Why We’re the Experts* Meghan Splawn is a freelance food writer and recipe developer who has worked in food media since 2006. * Her work includes 10 years in the test kitchen with Alton Brown as well as sites like Simply Recipes, TheKitchn.com, and Serious Eats.
Serious Eats / Madison WoitenOver the years, we’ve tested nearly every piece of kitchen equipment under the sun, and we’re especially passionate about stainless steel cookware. From small saucepans to large rondeaus, our favorites rise to the top only after rigorous performance and durability tests.
For years, Made In has continued to impress our editors with its stainless steel skillets, its stainless steel saucier, and its sauté pan. We even recommended its cookware set — a rarity for us, as we personally believe the best cookware set is the one you build yourself. While investing in high quality stainless steel cookware might seem like a splurge, Amazon has deals on Made In that we couldn’t help but notice, including $150 off one of our favorite dinnerware sets.
Editor’s Picks From Made In’s Memorial Day Weekend Sale The Best Stainless Steel Skillets: 3-Piece Stainless Steel Skillet Set * A Great Stainless Steel Starter Cookware Set: 6-Piece Stainless Steel Set * One of the Best Stainless Steel Rondeaus: Stainless Clad Rondeau * A Great Butter Warmer: Stainless Steel Butter Warmer * The Best Flatware Set: Stainless Steel Flatware for 4 Place Settings * One of the Best Tabletop Dinnerware Sets: Complete Tabletop Set * The Best Stoneware Pie Plate: 1.5-Quart Pie Dish * The Best Small Platter:* Stoneware Serving Platter
The Best Stainless Steel Skillets3-Piece Stainless Steel Skillet SetAmazonThe Made In 10-inch and 12-inch skillets were top performers during our skillet tests. Their 5-ply construction meant quick and even heating that produced perfect crepes and beautifully seared chicken breasts. It was also comfortable to hold — something we can’t say about all stainless steel skillets. While each skillet is on sale independently, you can get the best deal on the 3-piece set at $30 off, which includes the 8-inch, 10-inch, and 12-inch skillet.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikA Great Stainless Steel Starter Cookware Set6-Piece Stainless Steel SetAmazonWhile we believe that the perfect cookware set is one you assemble yourself, we wanted to find the best options for those who might be starting out or replacing worn-out gear. Made In’s 6-piece stainless steel cookware set is $30 off and has the essentials, with the addition of a nonstick pan for more delicate cooking. All of the pieces heated evenly and the flared rims on the pots made for easy pouring.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreOne of the Best Stainless Steel RondeausStainless Clad RondeauAmazonA cross between a sauté pan and a brasier, the rondeau is a versatile piece of cookware that can sear, stew, shallow fry, slow cook, and more. During our tests, the Made In rondeau made flavorful beef stroganoff, perfectly braised chicken and cabbage, and was easy to maneuver despite its size. Half way between a shallow pot and a tall pan, it has a 12-inch diameter and 6-quart capacity, making it large enough to whip up one-pot meals for a crowd.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyA Great Butter WarmerStainless Steel Butter WarmerAmazonMade In’s 2-quart saucepan is our favorite from various tests of small saucepans, and while it isn’t on sale, it’s smaller sibling, the ¾-quart butter warmer, is. Sometimes, you just need a saucepan big enough to warm a bit of milk, melt a few tablespoons of butter, or or whip up the smallest amount of lemon curd. For those moments, the ¾-quart butter warmer is the perfect piece of cookware to complete small tasks with ease. Right now, you can save $10 on this little, but majorly helpful saucepan.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerThe Best Flatware SetMade In Flatware for 4 Place SettingsAmazonDuring our tests, the Made In flatware set impressed us with its elegance, balance, and weight. The classic design is versatile enough to fit into any kitchen, and they’re durable enough to last year after year. They come with enough utensils for four place settings and right now, they’re $30 off.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziOne of The Best Tabletop Dinnerware SetsComplete Tabletop SetAmazonThis porcelain set made in England comes with or recommended flatware set and serving platter. The glossy finish and optional colorful rims bring a touch of playfulness to the sturdy set, offering a great balance between classic elegance and modern flair. While it’s normally pricey for a complete set, it’s $150 off during Made In’s Memorial Day Sale.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmThe Best Stoneware Pie Plate1.5-Quart Pie DishAmazonThe Made In stoneware pie plate baked up a crisp, golden crust during our tests, and had sides deep enough for pies that have larger amounts of filling. Plus, the flat rim was helpful when it came to crimping pie edges in different designs. The 9-inch diameter rim to rim and generous 1.5-quart capacity makes it perfect for baking pies full of bright summer fruits, so grab this pie dish for $10 off.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Best Small PlatterServing PlatterAmazonThis serving platter was one of our favorites during testing thanks to its classic design that instantly made food feel fancier. The flared, raised edge also kept liquids contained and made scooping a breeze for easy serving. If you often find yourself hosting, or if you simply want to enhance your weeknight dinners, save $10 on the serving platter during Made In’s sale.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyFAQsWhere are Made In’s products made?
The stainless steel cookware and flatware on this list are made in Italy and the stoneware is made in England.
How long will this sale last?
Made In’s Memorial Day sale is set to last through May 27, 2024. We’ll keep this article updated as we learn more about the sale.
Why We’re the Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * An has tested kitchen equipment for Serious Eats since 2022, including manual citrus juicers and vegetable peelers.
Serious Eats / Sabrina TanA year ago, I presented the Serious Eats team with what I thought was a bizarre idea: an immersive collection of recipes and articles celebrating my love of bananas. I was so enthusiastic—practically exclaiming at the top of my lungs—that our editorial director Daniel Gritzer fell backwards off his chair with excitement. It turns out the rest of the Serious Eats team loves bananas just as much as I do (well, almost).
A year later, I find myself here sharing this labor of love. For the past few months, I have immersed myself so deeply in the world of bananas that my husband has basically banned the fruit from our household after too many bowls of banana pudding, slices of banoffee pie, and buckets of banana smoothies as I worked on those recipes. My love of bananas, however, knows no bounds, and I won’t rest until you’re all as enthusiastic about bananas as I am.
It's easy to take bananas for granted—the fruit is everywhere. Once though, before early 20th century advancements in shipping and agriculture made it possible to transport the fruit outside its native tropical zones, bananas were a luxury..
To me, bananas are still a luxury, and one I get excited about even though I eat them at least once a day. It’s an ingredient so versatile that you could, if you so desired, prepare a delicious meal with almost all of the plant. In the West, bananas are mostly prized for their fruit and reserved for the realm of desserts, where they star in classics like banana bread, banana pudding, and banana cream pie. In other parts of the world, though, the fruit, leaves, blossoms, and sometimes even the root are used in both sweet and savory dishes.
In Myanmar, cooks incorporate banana stems into refreshing salads and mohinga, a fragrant fish soup. In the southwestern Indian state of Kerala, banana peels feature in thoran, a spiced stir-fry. Throughout Thailand, crisp banana blossoms are used as a base for dishes like this spicy chicken, banana blossom, and herb salad. And while not edible, banana leaves make an excellent cooking vessel: In the Philippines, they’re used to wrap a bibingka, a coconut-flavored rice cake; in Nigeria, they encase moin moin, a steamed bean cake; and in the Mexican state of Yucatan, cooks wrap pork tightly with the leaves to make cochinita pibil, tender barbecued pork.
Below, you’ll find a slew of informative articles and pitch-perfect recipes that celebrate the banana as it deserves to be.
We are, simply put, bananas for bananas—and hope you are, too.
A Guide to Banana Varieties Around the WorldThe more you think about bananas, the stranger a concept they seem: Almost all bananas are grown in tropical climates, yet they feel as much a staple in North American grocery stores as our native apples. In the United States, most people only have access to the Cavendish, a slender, slightly curved banana with a cheerful shade of yellow. Around the world, however, there are thousands of varieties to know and love—here are a few.
Meet Isoamyl Acetate, the Banana-Flavored Molecule You Love to HateWhy do banana-flavored candies taste so odd? The fascinating answer involves a global plant plague and this fruity-smelling organic chemical.
How to Store and Ripen BananasThe sad fact is, bananas don't care one bit whether they fit into your personal snacking schedule. They're either not ready to eat, suddenly ready to eat, and then too ripe to eat...but still great for baking. In our attempt to solve the banana dilemma, we tested numerous methods to both slow and speed ripening. Here are the best ones.
Banana SplitRelive your childhood summers with this retro banana split, complete with strawberry, chocolate, and fudge sauces, dollops of whipped cream, and maraschino cherries.
Banana SmoothieThis salty-sweet peanut–butter banana smoothie takes all of five minutes to whizz up and gets extra creaminess from whole milk, nut butter, and frozen bananas.
Banana Ice CreamYou can make our creamy banana ice cream with just one ingredient—but a couple of pantry ingredients make it so much better than any other "nice" cream.
Turon (Filipino Fried Banana Rolls)Turon—a sweet, banana-filled rendition of lumpia—are delightful any way you serve them. Eat them all by themselves, dunked into caramel or chocolate sauce, or with a scoop of your favorite ice cream..
Banana PuddingMade with a luscious vanilla pastry cream, ripe bananas, and vanilla wafers, this simple banana pudding is the very best version you can make at home.
Banana FosterThis classic flambéed banana-and-caramel dessert comes together in minutes in a single skillet, making it both impressive and easy.
The Top 10 Banana Moments in Pop Culture HistoryBananas have made prominent appearances in music, movies, and TV shows and might just be the most popular fruit ever—even beyond the grocery basket. Here's our list of the top 10 most impactful banana-related pop culture moments.
Quick & Easy Banana BreadFor a striking loaf with a deep mahogany crust, tender crumb, and the most intense banana flavor, cram six bananas into the batter. Yes, six bananas.
Brown Butter Bananarama CookiesThese cookies get their rich banana and toffee flavor from caramelized bananas and brown butter.
5-Ingredient British Banoffee PieThis low-effort dessert with gooey dulce de leche, sliced bananas, and whipped cream is a British classic—and one fitting for both dinner parties and casual gatherings.
Puto (Filipino Steamed Rice Cakes)Americans have cornbread and dinner rolls—Filipinos have puto, a fluffy savory cake covered and served with banana leaves.
Bánh Nậm (Vietnamese Steamed Rice Dumplings With Shrimp and Pork)Studded with a seasoned mixture of ground pork and wood ear mushrooms, these tender rice cakes wrapped in banana leaves make a great snack.
Bibingka (Filipino Rice Cake)Topped with caramelized coconut strips and scented with banana leaf, this coconut-flavored rice cake is associated with Christmas—but it's delicious any time of the year, and best enjoyed warm with a steaming hot cup of coffee or tea.
Serious Eats / Getty ImagesDo you remember where you were the first time you heard "Hollaback Girl?" I, for one, was a wee lil fourth grader jamming out in my bright purple bedroom to a song I definitely should not have been singing at that age. Nevertheless, it was then and there that I realized just how vital the yellow fruit was not just to food, but to pop culture as well. (OK, fine, I realized it just now for the purpose of this assignment, but I'm sure I thought about it back then too. Maybe.)
From movies to music and our favorite TV shows, bananas have shown up in our lives in so many ways. So as part of our recent enthusiastic banana undertaking, we are taking a look back in time at the top banana moments—both good and not so good—in recent-ish pop culture. You know, the ones that are so burned into our subconsciousness that we think of them every time we pick up a banana at the store. The ones you already know made this list! The ones we’ll no doubt tell our grandchildren about whilst rocking back and forth gently. "In my day, they put pajamas on bananas and raced them down the stairs," and such. You get it! Without further ado: the definitive banana moments of our time.
- Bluth’s Original Frozen Banana Stand from Arrested DevelopmentIf you know Arrested Development, you know about the banana stand. “There’s always money in the banana stand,” George Bluth Sr. would continually say to his kids. Turns out, it wasn’t just a saying; there actually was always money in the banana stand—about $250,000 of it that lined the walls, until it was burned down by his son, Michael Bluth.
Getty Images / Araya Doheny / Stringer9. Andy Warhol's BananaGetty Images / Pictorial Parade / StaffWhat started as an interactive art piece for The Velvet Underground’s 1967 album The Velvet Underground and Nico eventually became one of Warhol’s most notable works of art (and one ultimately synonymous with the Pop Art movement). The piece was even crowned best album cover of all time by Billboard in 2023. Fast forward to today, and you can easily find the art plastered on everything from T-shirts to mock prints—and even our banana spotlight’s cover art—further cementing the banana as an icon. An orange could never!!
- “The Comedian” Art Installation by Maurizio CattelanMiami’s annual Art Basel event is notorious for attracting all kinds of art. In 2019, the event shocked all when an art installation simply displaying an actual banana duct-taped to a wall sold for a whopping $120,000—along with two other editions that sold for upwards of $150,000 each. The installation was titled “The Comedian” and was the work of Italian artist Maurizio Cattelan. It examined how material objects become important depending on their context while also poking fun at art and capitalism. Performance artist David Datuna ended up peeling the banana off the wall and eating it as a prank. Though onlookers were shocked, at the end of the day, it was just a regular banana, and the exhibit was replaced with another piece of the fruit, further proving its absurdity.
Getty Images / China News Service7. Slipping on Banana PeelsA comedy trope as old as time—so much so that MythBusters even tested the theory to see how likely it is to slip on one! Plot twist, it’s not, unless you’ve got a whole lot of bananas littered on the ground, but that hasn’t stopped anyone from making it into a thing. The bit is believed to have originated in the 20th century as a Vaudeville act. Vaudeville comedian “Sliding” Billy Watson saw someone struggling to maintain their balance after slipping on a peel, and incorporated it into one of his shows. The act later appeared in the silent film “The Flirt,” and the rest is history. But history is different from reality–lmk if you’ve actually ever witnessed someone slip on a banana peel. In my 29 years, I have not.
Getty Images / hatman126. The Savannah BananasIf there’s one team I’m always rooting for, it’s baseball's Savannah Bananas. Not necessarily to win, but to provide entertainment. I’ve yet to see them play in person, but it’s high on my bucket list. This team is committed to the bit in every way possible. First off, they play in kilts. Most notably, however, they perform choreographed numbers at every game, from Mariah Carey to One Direction and even songs from Aladdin. This is probably one of my favorite videos from them to date—the suspense!!—but they always find a way to keep things interesting.
Serious Eats /Kent Nishimura5. Bananas in PyjamasThis Australian children’s television series from the 90s was a classic. Who didn’t love watching these two bananas and their endless shenanigans? OK, maybe we didn’t love watching them—they did skew scary sometimes—but their theme song was catchy and the show was, well, bananas.
Getty Images / Cameron Spencer / Staff4. Britney (and Banana) at the 2001 VMAsWhile performing her hit “I’m a Slave 4 U,” the singer emerged on stage with an albino Burmese python named Banana wrapped around her. It was a bold move not seen by many, if any, performers before, and Spears reflected on it in her recent memoir:
In my head I was saying, Just perform, just use your legs and perform. But what nobody knows is that as I was singing, the snake brought its head right around to my face, right up to me, and started hissing,” Spears writes. “I was thinking, Are you f---ing serious right now? The f---ing goddamn snake’s tongue is flicking out at me. Right. Now. Finally, I got to the part where I handed it back, thank God.
Getty Images / KMazur / WireImage3. The Banana Boat Scene in JawsCue the dramatic music! You know, the one that immediately makes you think of a shark swimming up to you in the ocean?? In this scene from the fourth installment of the Jaws movies, a group of beachgoers is seen atop a banana boat when a shark suddenly starts swimming towards them, eventually biting the leg of a woman and pulling her off the boat. Okay, so maybe we’re not eager to hop on a banana boat anytime soon after watching this, but if you pause the movie right before things take a turn, it doesn’t look like such a bad time!!
Getty Images / Universal Pictures / Handout2. “The Name Game” by Shirley EllisThis song originated as a rhyming game that makes it easy to rhyme to practically any name—but you probably know it most as a way to rhyme the name Hannah with banana. How many parents raised their Hannahs by singing this song to them? In fact, do you even have a daughter named Hannah if you didn’t sing this song to them at least once a day?
Getty Images / Express / Stringer1. "Hollaback Girl"If you didn't know how to spell bananas, Gwen Stefani changed that in the year 2004. I was a mere elementary school girl when this song came out, but that didn’t stop me from belting the lyrics at the top of my lungs. The whole thing was generation-defining hit: The singer’s music video featured a high-school theme, and this part of the song saw a cheerleading squad decked out in banana-themed uniforms spelling out the name of the fruit with signs. It made me want to audition for the cheer squad, which I never did get around to, but I did use the inspiration to wear a cheerleader Halloween costume that year.
Getty Images / John Shearer / Staff
Serious Eats / Will DickeyThere’s a reason people line up for the world’s best pizzas. From charred Neapolitan pies to crusty New York-style slices, this universally loved food is something that can be tricky (and sometimes expensive) to perfect at home. If you find yourself in pursuit of the best possible pizza, obsessively trying various doughs and oven temperatures to get the texture just right, then you find yourself in good company. We’ve done tons of research and countless tests trying to nail our recipes and techniques. Along the way, we’ve found some tools that are essential for making pizza at home, including pizza peels and even the humble bench scraper.
When it comes to actually cooking the pizza, many types of pizza ovens can nearly replicate the results of commercial establishments. But we’ve long held the belief that if you want to make awesome sauce pizza at home (without shelling out hundreds for a dedicated pizza oven), the tool you need is a pizza (a.k.a baking) steel. Pizza steels, like pizza stones, are a slab of solid material that you place in your oven to offer a temperature conduit that helps crisp the crust. But while pizza stones are made of a porous stone called cordierite, pizza steels are made of, you guessed it, steel.
While often sold for making pizza, these steels can also be used to cook a myriad of other things, like crusty artisan boules and crispy roasted vegetables. According to Joe Hurly, owner of Falls Culinary Inc., the manufacturer of the Dough-Joe pizza steel, “Steel's benefit is that it transfers heat rapidly, giving good oven spring, and it allows home ovens to cook pizza very close to what you get in a 900° wood-fired oven.”
At a glance, it may not seem like a solid slab of steel can differ much from model to model, but we wanted to be sure. So, we slung pie after pie to determine which pizza steels are worth buying and which will make the most difference in your quest for the perfect crust.
The Winners, at a GlanceThis steel did the best at regulating the temperature of the oven, distributing heat fairly evenly across the surface despite oven hotspots. It hit the ideal temperature of over 500°F after just 30 minutes of preheating, producing a killer crust.
This pizza steel did almost as well as our winner during our tests, resulting in a nicely speckled crust. Like the the Original Baking Steel, it’s also made in the U.S.A.
Bigger, thicker, and heavier, this is the steel to pick for pizza pros and aficionados who want the best possible pizzas. It created an airy, crisp crust on our pizzas, rivaling what you could expect even from a dedicated pizza oven.
The TestsA pizza steel should produce crispy, airy crust—and it should do it quickly.Serious Eats / Will DickeyNote: We did both tests with our winning pizza stone from Unicook as a control.
- Steel Temperature Test: We preheated our oven to 500°F and placed the steel inside. We used an infrared thermometer to take the temperature of the steel in three spots (center, bottom right, and top left) after 30 minutes and then after one hour.
- Pizza Test: After the steels preheated, we shaped a ball of store-bought pizza dough and topped it with sauce and cheese. We launched it onto the steel with a peel and cooked each pizza for exactly 12 minutes. After it was done, we took notes of the appearance of the crust on top and bottom, then sliced it and tasted it.
What We LearnedThicker, Carbon Steel Performed BetterCarbon steel retains heat well, making it great for baking pizza after pizza.Serious Eats / Will DickeyThroughout testing, we noticed that thicker, carbon steel offerings, like the Original Baking Steel, heated up faster than stainless steel ones; they also retained their heat well, even after they were used to bake a pizza. Other steels, like the Ooni, had more noticeable declines in temperature after baking a pizza. Think of it like frying: when you add something to the hot oil, the heat transfers to the item, leaving the oil a bit cooler after you’ve removed the food. The same is true of a pizza steel. We liked carbon steel pizza steels since they bounced back to temp quickly after cooking a pie. (This is especially helpful if you’re slinging multiple pizzas and don’t want to wait a long time between bakes.) Carbon steel does a better job at heating and re-heating because it’s more conductive than stainless steel. “Stainless steel, though it has nice properties, doesn't conduct heat as well as carbon steel,” says Hurly. Carbon steel’s conductivity is at about 45 watts per kelvin per meter, while stainless steel’s is at 15 watts per kelvin per meter.
The only downside to thicker, carbon steel baking steels is that they’re often quite heavy: The Baking Steel Pro, for example, is 11 pounds heavier than The Original Baking Steel, even though it’s only 1/8 -inch thicker.
Finger Holes Are Nice, but Not NecessaryWe appreciated the steels that had finger holes, like the Vevor Baking Steel, since they made it easy to pull steels out of the oven. That being said, the steels that performed the best didn’t always have these holes and, really, we preferred steels that performed better. Plus, virtually all pizza steel manufacturers insist that you don’t attempt to handle the steel until the oven has completely cooled to room temperature anyway, and by then the steel is easy enough to just grab by the edge.
A Note on CleaningPretty much all the manufacturers stated that a pizza steel doesn’t need to be cleaned and to just burn and brush off any stuck-on debris. All of the steels we tested did end up with a few spots and stains, especially in places where mozzarella burned on, but this is to be expected, and your steel will patina over time no matter how careful you are.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Pizza SteelSerious Eats / Will DickeyOur favorite steels are made of carbon steel, which heats up faster and is stronger and more durable than stainless. We preferred steels that are at least 1/4-inch thick; the thicker the steel, the more even the heat tended to be. That said, thicker steels were heavier and a little more difficult to maneuver. If you go for a thinner steel, make sure to get one that’s at least 16 pounds. In our tests, any lighter than that, and results suffered.
The Top Pizza SteelsWhat we liked: Even though pretty much all of the steels produced far better pizza than we could ever achieve in a regular oven without one, the Original Baking Steel differentiated itself on a few of the finer points. After the pizza came off, the temperature across the steel had the least amount of temperature swings and hotspots, with the center temping at 500°F immediately after baking (indicating consistent, even temperature during baking). The steel also hit its total heat potential (an average of 517°F) after 30 minutes in the oven and stayed there, as opposed to other steels that needed a full hour to do the same.
What we didn’t like: The steel didn’t get quite as hot as some other steels after an hour in the oven. Even so, the pizza we cooked on it still had a crispy, airy crust texture and even got the Dalmatian-like spotting that’s prized on Neapolitan-style pizzas.
Key Specs Material: Carbon steel * Weight: 16 lbs * Dimensions: 14 x 16 inches * Thickness: 0.25 inches * Pre-seasoned:* Yes
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayWhat we liked: The Dough-Joe, which is made of durable carbon steel, hit the highest temperature (560°F) during preheat of any we tested, perfect for achieving crisp crust and airy oven spring. It also stayed at a high temperature after cooking the pizza. The 15-inch model fit easily in our oven while still providing plenty of room to turn the pie.
What we didn't like: The Dough-Joe took an hour to reach its maximum average temperature of 533°F, though we’d be happy to start cooking pizzas when it reached an average of 527°F after 30 minutes.
Key Specs Material: Carbon steel * Weight: 16 lbs * Dimensions: 15 x 15 inches * Thickness: 0.25 inches * Pre-seasoned:* Yes
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayWhat we liked: The Baking Steel Pro got just a smidgehotter during the preheating process, reaching an average of 529°F after one hour in the oven. There was huge oven spring when we baked the pizza, creating large fluffy dough bubbles like those you might see in a wood-fired coal pizza oven. The crust had that coveted leopard spotting that is prized by pizzaiolos in Italy and had a flavor and texture that could rival any made in a dedicated pizza oven.
In terms of manufacturing and construction, the pro version doesn’t differ that much from the Original Baking Steel. Both are made of pre-seasoned carbon steel and manufactured in America.
What we didn’t like: It’s pricier, heavier, and bulkier. Make sure to measure your oven before purchasing, since it's quite large.
Key Specs Material: Carbon steel * Weight: 27 lbs * Dimensions: 16 x 16 inches * Thickness: 3/8 inches * Pre-seasoned:* Yes
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayThe Competition* Ooni Pizza Steel 13: The center of the steel was the lowest of any we tested after the pizza came off (even compared to the Unicook pizza stone). We suspect this steel would take some time to come back up to temperature, which is annoying if you’re slinging multiple pizzas. The final pizza came out fine though. * VEVOR Pizza Steel: This steel was prone to hotspots even after sufficient preheating, which resulted in charred patches on the crust. * Steelmade Baking Steel: It needed a full hour to reach its maximum temperature potential, and couldn’t get as hot as the pizza stone control. * NerdChef Baking Steel: This steel absorbed heat the slowest of any that we tested, hitting the lowest overall temperature average even after an hour of baking. We noticed wild hotspots after the pizza came off, which could result in uneven pizzas and poor-quality bakes.
FAQsWhat else can you make on a pizza steel besides pizza?All kinds of baked goods (and more!) can be made on a pizza steel. Crusty boules and other artisan breads form a wonderful, crispy texture, while roasted vegetables and frozen foods, like French fries, develop much better caramelization when baked on a steel. The temperature of the steel can get quite hot, however, so we recommend not using it to cook delicate pastries, like croissants, that would benefit from a more circular heat.
How do you clean a pizza steel?Most of the pizza steel manufacturers claim that the pizza steel needs no cleaning at all. Instead, a few extra minutes in the oven should be more than enough to bake off any stuck-on food. After cooking pizzas, we only had to brush off a few crumbs and grains of flour. If you find yourself with more of a mess, a quick scrub with hot water and soap, followed by a thorough drying, will suffice.
Is a pizza steel worth it?In general, we think a pizza steel is a worthy purchase for most home cooks, even those that don’t intend to cook pizza from scratch much. That’s because a pizza steel can function as a heat sink that will stabilize the temperature inside even the most temperamental of ovens.
How thick should a pizza steel be? All the steels we tested were at least 1/4-inch thick, and we think that is the minimum you should look for to achieve top results. Thicker steels offer more even heating and less hotspots; that said, they’re also usually significantly heavier and, often, more expensive.
Why We’re the Experts* Taylor Murray has been working in food and food media for over 10 years, including in award-winning restaurants. She has written extensively for Serious Eats. * Taylor tested seven pizza steels, using them to cook New York-style pizza from scratch. As she did this, she evaluated each steel’s performance, usability, and design. * She also interviewed Joe Hurly, owner of Falls Culinary Inc., the manufacturer of the Dough-Joe pizza steel.
Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerA bunch of bananas can look, at first, like the ultimate convenience, a graceful cluster of plump arcs nestled together by nature's workshop for efficient transport and storage. And then they all turn yellow then brown and before you know you're planning your next batch of banana bread. The sad fact is, bananas don't care one bit whether they fit into your personal snacking schedule—once you've been tempted by their sugary sweetness and grabbed the bunch their evolutionary purpose of seed dispersal has been achieved. If they all ripen at once, so be it.
I'm of course giving bananas agency they don't have. They don't "care" about anything and, with the cultivars we buy at the store today, there's not a seed inside almost any banana that can grow into a future banana plant. Regardless, we're all constantly dealing with the frustrating experience of having a whole lot of bananas that are all either not ready to eat, very suddenly all ready to eat, and then very quickly too ripe to eat (but still great for baking). No wonder so many people are in search of tips on banana ripening, both how to speed the process up and how to slow it down. Gaining just a little bit of control over the progression from green to yellow to spotted to full-blown brown can mean the difference between being able to eat bananas when and how we want and not.
There is a lot of information out there about banana ripening strategies, but practical testing is always a plus (and not always a given on some websites). So for the past couple weeks I've been buying and storing bananas all sorts of ways in search of the methods that seem most effective for influencing banana ripeness.
I ran my storage tests twice. Each time, I shopped for the bananas from the same store, choosing bunches that were the same brand and from the same origin, and with the same level of ripeness as judged by visual inspection. The first time, I stored my bananas at home for three days before inspecting, and the second time in my office for two and a half days; the office is air-conditioned all the time, and thus is colder than my home by about 5 to 10°F (3-6°C). I inspected all samples visually and tasted them as well.
How Bananas RipenBananas hold the honorable distinction of growing on the world's largest flowering plant—despite appearances, they are not trees. The fruits themselves, which grow in the clusters we all recognize from stores, are a climacteric fruit, which means that once picked they continue to ripen during a maturation phase marked by high levels of respiration and the production of the ripening gas ethylene. As bananas ripen, enzymes in the banana's flesh break down complex starches into sweet sugars, raising sugar levels from close to 2% in the unripe stage to 20% when ripe. At the same time, the pectin that holds cell walls together is weakened, leading to a pleasant softening in texture.
This ripening phase can happen rapidly and dramatically with bananas, so a specialized process is required to successfully ship them from tropical growing regions to the rest of the world without them turning to a puddle of rotting ooze by the time they arrive. To do this, bananas are harvested when the fruit is still in a very unripe, green state and then kept in temperature-controlled storage at around 55°F (13°C), which fully halts the ripening process.
Once they've arrived at their destination, they are brought to processing facilities where they are exposed to ethylene gas and slightly warmer temperatures, jump starting maturation again. From there, bananas go to the store, and then your home, where they quickly shift through varying degrees of ripeness until they're no longer good for much other than banana bread.
It's important to note that while the color of bananas shifts from green to yellow to brown as they ripen, color is not a perfect signal of ripeness. In my own testing, I had some bananas that retained a green tint even as the fruit inside matured to a good eating level, which made me wonder why that had happened. I found an answer in this article from the American Society of Plant Biologists, which describes a phenomenon known as "green ripening." In effect, a banana can remain green even as it ripens if the ambient temperature is above about 75°F (24°C). As it turns out, all my bananas that remained greenish even when ripe were at or above that temperature where I was keeping them in my home.
Clearly, the key factors at play with banana ripeness are: temperature and ethylene production, plus any other ways to influence the enzymatic activity that breaks down starches into sugars. I set out to test common methods of speeding and slowing ripening by manipulating things like temperature and ethylene concentration to see how dramatically that could affect the timing it took for the bananas to ripen.
TLDR: Your Best Options for Controlling Banana RipeningIf you want to slow down the rate at which your bananas ripen, the most effective steps are to move them to a cooler area, preferably around or just below 65°F (18°C), and tape the stem end well with Scotch tape (or another similar tape). Separating your bananas into individuals and keeping them apart may also help slightly.
If you want to speed up the rate at which bananas ripen, move them to a warmer area, preferably more than 75°F (24°C). In my tests I found no faster ripening when in a paper bag with or without another ethylene-emitting fruit (such as an apple), but there's no harm in keeping bananas clustered with each other and ethylene-emitting fruit just in case it does provide a boost. You can always use real heat, whether a low oven or microwave, or the enzymatic-ripening effect of egg yolks, to sweeten and soften bananas for baking, though these will generally not be good for eating out of hand.
One unexpected result of my testing: Storing the bananas in a paper bag did seem to encourage more even ripening and resulted in fruit that were more palatable after a few days than bananas that were left out in the open. It might be a good idea to transfer your fruit to a paper bag just as an overall quality-preserving measure even though it may not speed things up.
Test Results: Methods for Speeding Banana RipeningSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerThe first storage tests I wanted to do involved methods of speeding ripening, either to try to get bananas from a green and immature stage to one where they'd be enjoyable to eat as a fruit or in a fruit salad (meaning, sweet and tender but still firm enough to hold their shape) or ripened further so that they'd be appropriate for baking, banana whip, and other such recipes.
To run these tests, I had one bunch of bananas that acted as a control, and then the rest in their respective storage scenarios. All the bananas started out mostly green with just a trace of yellow and the photos you see here are the results after three days of storage. The ambient temperature for all of the bananas in these tests hovered around 75°F (24°C) (as noted above, this was warm enough to cause "green ripening," in which the bananas ripened while maintaining traces of green chlorophyll in their peels).
Paper BagSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerEnclosing bananas in a paper bag is one of the most common tips for speeding up ripening. The logic is that the paper bag is permeable, allowing oxygen to enter it and thus continue to feed respiration, while also ensuring humidity doesn't build up inside the bag. At the same time, the bag is meant to trap ethylene produced by the fruit, speeding ripening.
In my tests, I saw little indication even after three days enclosed in a paper bag that the bananas ripened any faster than the control bunch. In my home samples, I think I was able to perceive a slight superiority in texture and evenness of ripening with the bagged samples, but the differences were subtle enough that I wouldn't make too much out of this observation. At my office, the paper bag samples fared much better than the control, ripening more evenly and maintaining a good eating quality. Perhaps this was because the ethylene cloud around the bagged bananas was contained and thus more even, or maybe temperature was kept more moderate and even in the bag, or perhaps more ideal humidity levels were maintained.
In any event, my results weren't what I expected based on the idea that trapping the bananas' ethylene would speed ripening.
Storing Near Ethylene-Releasing FruitSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerMany people recommend storing bananas with or near other ethylene-producing fruit, such as apples, to further speed the ripening process. To try this, I stored a bunch of bananas with an apple in a paper bag. Strangely, at home, these bananas showed slightly less brown spotting than the bananas in a paper bag without an apple and quite a bit less browning than the control group. In my office, the control group was no longer pleasant to eat, having turned mushy and brown in spots; while the two paper bag samples (one with an apple, the other not) were still in very good shape.
In no instances did I find that adding an ethylene-producing fruit speeded ripening, though I can't say that this technique never works—perhaps it does in some instances, depending on the exact positioning of the fruit, the relative amounts of them, and where in their ethylene-emitting phases they are.
Oven "Ripening"The ripening of bananas is tied to ambient temperature, with bananas held in cooler areas ripening more slowly than those in warmer ones. The next logical step: Speed it up even further by baking the peel-on bananas in a low oven (around 250°F/120°C is a commonly given number).
In my tests, the bananas were warmed through and slightly softened after ten minutes in the oven, with a slightly more pronounced aroma, though there were hints of a perfumy funk. One could eat this banana out-of-hand, but it's not as good as a properly ripened banana and does not taste noticeably sweeter than before baking. After a full hour the banana peels had turned a deep, dark, totally consistent brown color; inside they were watery and very clearly cooked, while ever so slightly more sweet in a sickly-sour way. In a pinch you could use this method for bananas that will be pureed or mixed into a batter and then cooked further, such as for banana bread, but it is not an acceptable option for bananas that will be eaten raw and will not significantly alter the sweetness of the bananas.
MicrowavingThe microwave is just another tool for heating bananas. I put a whole, peel-on banana in a microwave and cooked it for 30 seconds at high heat, at which point my microwave had made it warm to the touch. I let it go another 30 seconds and noted some soft popping sounds in the microwave. The banana was hot at that point, with dark brown blemishes spreading across the yellow-green peel. Inside the banana was very warm, with a flavor that managed to taste both underripe and ripe at the same time, but not much sweeter at all. It was quite similar to the 10-minute oven banana—edible but not great.
Egg Yolk–RipeningSerious Eats / Vicky WasikStella Parks has written about this clever speed-ripening method before, but it's important to note that because it requires mixing the bananas with raw egg, it only works in situations where you are going to cook the bananas further, and in which the egg will be a welcome addition (such as in a banana bread batter).
The underlying idea is that the egg yolk contains amylase, an enzyme that breaks down the starch in bananas into simple sugars, so by mixing mashed bananas with the yolk and letting it sit for at least 30 minutes, a good deal of starch-to-sugar conversion can take place, much faster than what happens on a banana's natural timescale.
Test Results: Methods for Slowing Banana RipeningSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerNow let's look at the inverted scenario: What to do if you're worried your bananas are going to ripen faster than you can eat them. How can you slow the process down? The methods I tested here showed much better and more consistent results than the ripening-speeding tests, and I was able to repeat my results in both rounds of testing at home and in my office.
Taping the Stem EndSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerIn recent years, I've noticed some banana bunches at the market sold with tape around their stem end, and it's a common tool for slowing ripening. The explanation often given is that it's the stem that releases the most ethylene, so sealing it with tape reduces ethylene in the air around the bananas, slowing ripening. I have failed to find any scholarly research to back this explanation up, and I'm quite skeptical of it. I've seen others say it's the stem end that absorbs the most ethylene, and once again I can't find anything to support that claim. (I wonder if taping the stem might have more to do with slowing moisture loss, which is another thing that happens as a banana ripens; could trapping moisture, as one can with a tomato by storing it stem-side down keep a banana from transitioning into further ripeness quickly?)
In my tests at home and in the office, though, I saw quite clearly that taping the stem thoroughly with Scotch tape slowed ripening to a remarkable degree. Even after two to three days, my taped bananas were more green than yellow (in the above photo you do see one banana in the bunch is very green and other other evenly yellow; I believe the green one was for whatever reason quite a bit less mature than its siblings in the bunch and the taping fully halted its ability to progress). I also saw little to no brown spotting on any taped varieties.
I've come across other sources that have had less success with this method, including an experiment done in this YouTube video, but my results suggest that wrapping can indeed work.
Separating the BunchSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerGoing back to that basic idea that reducing ethylene concentrations can slow ripening, some suggest that separating the bunch so that the bananas aren't awash in each others' ethylene can slow ripening. My tests slightly support this, with my solo bananas seeming to ripen at a slightly slower rate than those in bunches. Perhaps the power move is to split up the bunch and tape each one individually.
Cooler Temperature StorageSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerIf you have the ability to find a cooler spot for your bananas, you will be able to slow their ripening. I kept a test bunch by an open window that averaged around 65°F (18°C), about 10°F cooler than the 75°F (24°C) zone of my other bananas, and the cooler ones ripened more slowly. My office is also cooler than my home, and all my samples there ripened much slower than their counterparts at home after the same number of days.
But then we can ask, can we go cooler? Sure we can!
You can store ripe bananas in the fridge, though my experience is that the cold of the fridge does not lead to bananas that are good to eat raw as a snack. Still, it's an option for preventing bananas from liquifying if you just need a few days before you're able to whip up that banana bread you were intending to make.
And of course the true cold of the freezer is an option as well for any very ripe bananas you want to hold for longer. Just peel and freeze your fully ripe bananas in a zipper-lock freezer bag until you've collected enough to make some banana whip or bread or whatever else might want to use them for.
Low-Oxygen StorageSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerI'm not even sure why I tried this one because there's no practical way to do it...but, I was curious. Since respiration drives the ripening process, I wanted to know what would happen if I stored bananas in a low-oxygen environment. So I created a bunch of carbon dioxide with the basic reaction of baking soda with white vinegar and trapped it in a zipper lock with bananas.
Humidity quickly built up inside the bag, but I didn't open it because the whole point was to keep the oxygen out as much as possible, not let it back in. The bananas remained green, but once I opened the bag three days later to taste them, their insides were murky and swampy. Some kind of maturation had happened, but not in a good way.
Is it possible to manipulate the mixture of gases for banana storage successfully? Sure there is—fruit companies do that kind of thing all the time to get their product from farm to market over great distances and times, but it requires a much more sophisticated setup that can maintain specific percentages of specific gases while also controlling humidity levels. Just shoving bananas in a plastic bag and letting them suffocate while sweating ain't the move.
The Bottom LineTo slow down the rate at which your bananas ripen, move them to a cooler area in your home, preferably around or just below 65°F (18°C), and tape the stem end well. Separating your bananas into individuals and keeping them apart may also help a bit. If you want to speed up the rate at which your bananas ripen, move them to a warmer area, preferably more than 75°F (24°C).
Getty ImagesThe more you think about bananas, the stranger a concept they seem: Almost all bananas are grown in tropical climates, yet they feel as much a staple in North American grocery stores as our native apples. But unlike apples, there’s only one variety of banana available to most people in the United States: the Cavendish, a slender, slightly curved banana with a cheerful shade of yellow.
Around the world, however, there are thousands of other banana varieties—they just aren’t readily available outside of their native growing areas. Below, we’ll take a look at some of those cultivars, including ones that you can find in the U.S. (if you know where to look!) and others that you should add to your list if you ever find yourself somewhere tropical. Trust me, they’re worth seeking out.
What Exactly Are Bananas, Anyway?Botanically speaking, bananas are berries. A single banana develops from one pollinated flower containing one ovary, and the mature fruit contains three distinct parts: an outer skin, a fleshy middle, and an innermost layer containing several seeds. Banana plants belong to the biological genus Musa, which contains 83 flowering plants, including bananas and plantains. Banana “trees” are technically not trees; rather, they’re herbaceous plants that can grow up to 40 feet tall. Instead of a tree’s signature trunk or woody stem, banana plants’ stems are composed of multiple individual leaf stalks.
Bananas are indigenous to tropical portions of India, Southeast Asia, and northern Australia, though this range specifically speaks to Musa acuminata—the Dwarf Cavendish—which is the modern banana’s wild ancestor. Scientists concur that the domesticated bananas we are familiar with today first originated in Papua New Guinea approximately 7,000 years ago. People brought bananas with them on their travels, and, over the course of several centuries, spread the fruit across the globe. Sailors introduced bananas to Africa for trade, and in turn European colonizers imported the fruit to the Americas. Today, bananas grow in Central and South America, Africa, and their native Indomalaya and Australia.
A Brief History of Banana Consumption in the U.S.Americans have been importing bananas since 1870, when the American businessman Lorenzo Dow Baker loaded 160 bunches of bananas from Jamaica onto his ship. After cashing in the fruit in Boston for $6,400—which, adjusted for inflation, is more than $150,000 today—Baker quickly formed the Boston Fruit Company. Recognizing that bananas could be picked while firm, stored in a cool and dry cargo hold during transit, and be perfectly ripe by the time they arrived at American ports, Boston Fruit Company created the banana trade’s business model that is still in use today. This, combined with consumers’ willingness to pay $2 (approximately $50 today) per bunch of bananas, proved that bananas meant big business.
To establish a national presence, northeast-based Boston Fruit Company merged with southeast-dominant Tropical Trading and Transport Company in 1899, forming United Fruit Company. United Fruit Company further entrenched Boston Fruit Company’s vertically-integrated business model, and coupled it with the robust Central American rail network built by and inherited from Tropical Trading and Transport Company based in New Orleans. Doing so firmly established the lasting infrastructure necessary to grow, pick, transport, market, and sell the banana as an everyday commodity in the United States.
Through aggressive marketing and campaigning stateside, fruit companies were able to cement the banana as an affordable American staple, and the fruit has since become a go-to snack and common baking ingredient in many households. Today, bananas are deeply ingrained in our everyday lives, so much so that bananas are consistently the most popular fresh fruit purchased in the United States.
Editor’s Note: While a deep-dive on the often fraught industry of bananas is beyond the scope of this article, we recommend reading Dan Koeppel’s excellent book Bananas: The Fate of the Fruit That Changed the World for an in-depth look at the often insidious role of colonization and globalization in popularizing the fruit.)
How the Banana Industry Led Us to a Singular Banana VarietyAs more and more Americans expected consistency and convenience at their fingertips, the fruit industry realized it would need to standardize the bananas available for purchase. Sweet, creamy, and slightly floral, the Gros Michel banana—the precursor to the Cavendish—was the perfect cultivar. Beyond its exceptional flavor, the Gros Michel’s ability to withstand long ocean voyages without being easily bruised or damaged also made it an excellent candidate for international commerce.
Because the Gros Michel is a sterile variety of banana that virtually lacks seeds, cultivating the banana requires cloning it through asexual propagation. While this creates a perfectly consistent product, it also produces genetically identical fruit. In short: a threat to one Gros Michel banana tree is a threat to every Gros Michel banana tree, which, in this case, would endanger the entire banana industry. Danger quickly presented itself in the form of Fusarium wilt, or “Panama Disease,” a soil-borne fungus.
In the 1890s, Panama Disease evolved to attack the Gros Michel in Panama, and quickly posed a threat to the rest of the crop. Once infected, a banana plant’s leaves begin to yellow, wilt, and crumple—beginning with mature leaves and eventually affecting newer growth—until the whole plant dies. A series of epidemics decimated the commercial Gros Michel plantations across Central and South America, and by the 1950s, it was impossible to grow the variety at the same scale. Panama Disease would have ended the sale of convenient, tasty, affordable bananas Americans had grown accustomed to had United Fruit Company not quickly pivoted.
Instead of fixing the issue at hand by changing their farming practices, United Fruit Company simply picked a similar banana—the Cavendish—to quietly replace the Gros Michel. Today, the Cavendish is asexually cloned in the exact same manner the Gros Michel was. Just like its predecessor, the Cavendish’s lack of genetic diversity puts it at risk of, once again, disappearing from the mass market at the hands of Panama Disease.
In our pursuit for the one perfect banana, we have severely limited our understanding of this flavorful, diverse, and abundant fruit—and have deprived ourselves of something fundamental to the joy of cooking: variety. Just as different potatoes are better suited to different applications—waxy for potato salad, starchy for mashed spuds—there are banana cultivars that are better suited for specific uses. Read on for a look at just a few varieties. If you want to try these but aren’t in their growing area, many of them can be purchased online at Miami Fruit, Melissa’s, and Fruit Hunters.
Banana Varieties TodayGros Michel BananaColor: Yellow peel, creamy flesh
Flavor: Sweet, strongly floral
Texture: Densely creamy
Best Uses: Banana pudding, bananas Foster, eaten raw
Getty Images / Thicha studioThe first banana America fell in love with, the Gros Michel is sometimes referred to as “Big Mike,” which is the English translation for this variety’s French name. As its name suggests, the Gros Michel banana can grow to be quite large and thick. With their firmer texture and slightly sweeter and floral taste, Gros Michel bananas are an ideal dessert banana that really shines in both dishes that need a banana punch with the intensity of banana Runts candy or that require the banana be cooked. Although gone from the mass market, Gros Michel bananas can still be purchased from online retailers who grow them on a much smaller scale.
Gros Michel bananas can be ordered online at Miami Fruit.
Cavendish BananaColor: Yellow peel, white flesh
Flavor: Slightly sweet
Texture: Lightly creamy
Best Uses: Eaten raw, banana splits, banana pudding, or banana bread
Getty Images / sutthichai somthongThe Cavendish, which is the banana most people are familiar with in the United States, accounts for 47% of all global production—significantly more than any other variety—and functions as the backbone of the banana business today. It’s no surprise why: Its sweet, well-rounded, and mildly fruity flavor make it an easy snack and versatile ingredient. Since it isn’t the densest banana out there, the Cavendish is a great choice for eating raw or incorporating into desserts like banana bread.
Nam Wah BananaColor: Blackened, yellow peel, creamy flesh
Flavor: Sweet vanilla
Texture: Dense and creamy, almost silky
Best Uses: Eaten raw, smoothies, raw banana desserts
Getty Images / sasimoto
Unlike other banana varieties, Nam Wah bananas are ripe only once their peels have almost blackened entirely. Their flesh, however, will remain a light, creamy color. Nam Wah bananas are beloved for their exceptionally sweet flavor that’s reminiscent of vanilla. Combined with their silky smooth texture, these bananas are a delicious treat eaten on their own, but would also make an excellent choice for desserts like banana pudding or banana splits.
Nam Wah bananas can be ordered online at Fruit Hunters.
Mysore BananaColor: Golden yellow peel, creamy flesh
Flavor: Very sweet
Texture: Very creamy
Best Uses: Eaten raw, smoothies, frozen and dipped in chocolate
Also known as Pisang Keling bananas, Mysore bananas are characterized by their thin skins that appear almost golden when ripe, as well as their small stature. Due to their candy-like sweetness, Mysore bananas are a favorite among those who’ve tried them. Given their size and flavor, these bananas would be excellent for dipping in chocolate and freezing as a sweet snack.
When they’re in season, Mysore bananas can be ordered from Miami Fruit.
Pisang Raja BananaColor: Yellow-orange peel, yellow flesh
Flavor: Sweet and slightly citrusy
Texture: Incredibly smooth
Best Uses: Eaten raw, banana splits
The Pisang Raja banana is known for its nearly starch-free texture once it ripens. This characteristic makes its flesh one of the creamiest bananas people can buy. Pisang Raja bananas’ slight citrusy note would make it an excellent addition to fruit salads, or even sliced and added as a pancake topping for a creamy, complex note.
The Pisang Raja banana can be ordered online from Miami Fruit.
Lady Finger BananaColor: Light yellow peel, pale flesh
Flavor: Sweet, honey-like taste
Texture: Creamy
Best Uses: Left raw and used in desserts like banana splits or banana pudding
Getty Images / sirichai_asawalapsakul
Also known as sugar bananas, Lady Finger bananas are smaller and slightly sweeter than the familiar Cavendish. They are native to Southeast Asia and are commonly found in grocery stores within the Asia-Pacific region. Interestingly, Lady Finger bananas are resistant to browning once cut. Lady Finger bananas’ ability to stay visually appealing, along with their honey-like flavor, makes them a great choice for uncooked banana desserts and fruit salads.
Señorita BananaColor: Light yellow peel, pale flesh
Flavor: Super sweet
Texture: Incredibly soft
Best Uses: Eaten raw or mashed and used in banana bread or banana cream pie
The Señorita banana, also referred to as the Monkoy or Arnibal banana, is native to the Philippines. They are renowned for their super sweet flavor and incredibly creamy texture. Although prized and delicious, Señorita bananas are typically too fragile to transport and are also vulnerable to a number of pathogens, which prevents their large-scale cultivation. They are typically found sparsely in rural areas, though some smaller retailers do harvest and offer them for sale in the Philippines.
Their absence on the mass market certainly doesn’t stop Filipinos and tourists from enjoying them, though. Due to their fragility and scarcity, they’re often eaten raw but would certainly make a welcome addition to sweet banana desserts that fully integrate the fruit, like banana bread or banana cream pie. Better yet, switching out the traditional Saba banana and accounting for the Señorita banana’s delicate texture could yield a particularly creamy adaptation of turon, a fried banana roll dessert native to the Philippines.
Red BananasColor: Red peel, pale to pinkish flesh
Flavor: Sweet
Texture: Creamy
Best Uses: Eaten raw, cooked and added to savory dishes
Getty Images / bhofack2Red bananas are no stranger to the United States and are sometimes available at major supermarkets like Kroger and Walmart, and often found for sale through specialty online fruit suppliers, but they certainly deserve some more love and attention. In addition to being slightly sweeter than the already familiar Cavendish, red bananas are also denser and have firmer flesh, which makes them a good candidate for cooked dishes. In Thailand, for example, cooks frequently incorporate red bananas into curries to add sweetness and balance other flavors in the dish. Being sweeter and slightly creamier than the Cavendish, red bananas are also a good candidate for bananas Foster, a dish of flambéed bananas and vanilla ice cream.
Blue Java BananaColor: Light yellow peel, pale flesh
Flavor: Slightly tart
Texture: Soft serve ice cream
Best Uses: Smoothies, mashed and used in banana bread
Blue Java bananas are sometimes referred to as “ice cream bananas,” but are neither blue nor taste like ice cream. While these bananas do have a blue tint to their skin when underripe, they brighten up to a pale yellow when fully ripened. The ice cream misnomer is likely due to their incredibly smooth, custard-like texture. While internet lore also claims these misunderstood bananas taste like vanilla, according to rare fruit seller Miami Fruit, this variety actually tastes slightly tart. Blue Java bananas, which are native to Southeast Asia, would be a welcome addition to smoothies or just enjoyed on their own.
Blue Java bananas can be ordered online from Miami Fruit.
Manzano BananaColor: Dark yellow peel, pale flesh
Flavor: Sweet with a slight fruity flavor
Texture: Creamy
Best Uses: Smoothies, custards, desserts
Getty Images / Yoyochow23The Manzano banana is native to Central and South America, and reputed for its sweet, fruity flavor. With notes of apple and strawberry, it's often referred to as the apple banana. The riper it gets, the more intense its unique aroma becomes. Some swear that the Manzano is best enjoyed when its peel is speckled with dark spots or has turned completely black. In any case, a banana with a more noticeably complex flavor would make an excellent ingredient in smoothies, custards, or banana pudding.
PlantainColor: Green, yellow, or black
Flavor: Mild to sweet
Texture: Firm to creamy
Best Uses: Savory dishes of all kinds
Getty Images / Picture PartnersAlthough not often thought of as typical bananas, plantains are part of the banana family—the biological genus Musa—and are certainly delicious in different ways than their dessert-oriented cousins. Better yet, they’re typically not too hard to find in the United States. Plantains’ higher starch content and lack of sweetness make them an excellent ingredient in savory dishes. Plantains are also an interesting ingredient because cultures around the world have ingeniously figured out how to prepare them at every stage of their ripeness. Just to give two examples, while underripe and green, plantains are destined to be sliced, smashed, and fried into tostones, which is a dish native to Latin America and the Caribbean, but when when fully ripened and black, plantains in the form of maduros are an excellent snack.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUntil about two years ago, my experience with Korean food was limited to occasional visits to a Korean barbecue joint. That all changed when I began watching (and obsessing over) K-dramas. All it took was 16 episodes of "Extraordinary Attorney Woo," and I was hooked. Food and drinking often play a significant role in K-dramas, so with every new show, I became increasingly drawn to Korean food culture.
Not surprisingly, this has led me to cook more Korean food at home. Armed with a few pantry staples like gochujang, gochugaru, doenjang, and dried anchovies—not to mention a huge jar of kimchi—I've set forth on a tasty culinary adventure that's taken me beyond Korean barbecue and into banchan, soup, stew, and even street food territory. I've discovered that while the flavors can be layered and complex, the recipes don't have to be—like the ones we've gathered here. From deeply flavorful marinades, sauces, and dips to make-ahead side dishes and indulgent "drinking" foods like cheesy fire chicken, these easy Korean recipes will keep you coming back for more to satisfy your cravings.
Baechu Kimchi (Napa Cabbage Kimchi)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikYou could say that Korean cuisine revolves around this spicy fermented Napa cabbage, which is why "kimchi season" is such a big deal in Korea. Families and often entire communities gather around mountains of cabbage to make this all-important staple, which is eaten with everything from steamed rice to instant ramyeon.
Sigeumchi Namul (Korean Marinated Spinach Banchan)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThis classic banchan, or side dish, of blanched spinach marinated in garlicky sesame dressing, is as ubiquitous as baechu kimchi—served with Korean barbecue, soup noodles, spicy cheesy chicken, or plain rice. It's easy to make ahead so you can have a stash in your fridge at any time.
Jangajji (Korean Soy Sauce-Pickled Vegetables and Chiles)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikPickling is a huge part of Korean cooking and this jangajji is one of the quickest methods. You simply pour the hot brine over seasonal vegetables of your choice and let it pickle for at least 24 hours. It'll keep up to a month in the fridge.
Gamja Bokkeum (Korean Sweet Soy-Glazed Potatoes)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThese glossy, sticky glazed potatoes are too good not to eat in one sitting. They're shallow-fried to crisp up the exterior, then braised in a savory-sweet soy sauce mixture until the interior is tender and creamy.
Gaji-Namul (Korean Marinated Eggplant Banchan)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWhether you're grilling galbi short ribs indoors or firing up the backyard barbecue, this sweet, savory, smoky summer banchan is the perfect accompaniment. The eggplant is roasted to draw out moisture so it can absorb more of the flavorful marinade and torn into strips for textural contrast.
Kkakdugi (Radish Kimchi)Serious Eats / Tim ChinIf you're a fan of complex funk, then this crunchy fermented radish is for you. The inherent sweetness of the daikon and Korean moo radish balances nicely with the layers of savoriness from fish sauce and preserved shrimp and the spicy kick from fruity gochugaru—massaged in at the beginning to start the brining process and stain the radish a vibrant hue.
Stir-Fried Anchovy Banchan (Myeolchi Bokkeum)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikCoated in a sweet-spicy-savory glaze, these stir-fried dried baby anchovies are an excellent banchan, not to mention a great snack...especially when you're throwing back shots of soju (as they often do in K-dramas). You can put this together in minutes and keep it in your fridge for whenever the munchies strike.
Oi Muchim (Korean Marinated Cucumber Banchan)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikTart, spicy, and slightly sweet, these make-ahead marinated cucumber slices are ideal for entertaining and offer a bright and refreshing alternative to dill sandwich pickles. Layer them on your burger or fried fish sandwich.
Korean Corn CheeseSerious Eats / Vicky WasikWhat is it about ooey, gooey, hot melted cheese and drinking? In Korea, this fondue-like concoction of canned corn topped with bubbly, molten cheese is one of the more popular anju offerings, or dishes specially designed to be served with alcohol. Our recipe swaps out canned corn (introduced during the Korean War) for fresh, though you could use frozen corn.
Korean-Style Fire Chicken (Buldak) With CheeseSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis is hot chicken, Korean-style. It's tailor-made for partying—layered with different forms of chiles and pepper for depth and plenty of cheese to temper the heat. Who needs buffalo wings on game day when you can dig into a fiery skillet of buldak chicken and cheese?
Crispy Kimchi Cheese RiceSerious Eats / Vicky WasikI don't know about you, but I purposely make extra rice just so I can have leftovers...to do stuff like this. Mix it with gochujang, soy sauce, and rice vinegar, crisp it up in a well-buttered cast iron skillet, layered with melted cheese and topped with kimchi and a shower of chopped scallions. Now, where's my beer?
Sweet Potato and Sausage Jeon With Yangnyeom Dipping SauceSerious Eats / Vicky WasikStroll through any street market in Korea and you'll likely find several vendors frying up golden crispy pancakes called jeon—sliced meat, seafood, or vegetables (or a combination) bound in a light batter. Served hot or at room temperature, they can work as a side dish or an anju. Here, we've incorporated the flavor of Thanksgiving with sweet potato and sausage.
Crispy Kimchi Pancakes With ShrimpSerious Eats / Emily and Matt CliftonIf you've gone through the trouble of making your own kimchi (and even if you haven't), don't let the precious brine go to waste. Add it to jeon batter and make these crispy shrimp pancakes, which are a great appetizer or snack.
Korean Fried Cauliflower (Vegan)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltKenji's vegan answer to the popular Korean fried chicken is these battered and deep-fried cauliflower florets, coated in spicy-sweet chili sauce and sprinkled with sesame seeds. So tasty, you won't miss the wings.
Kimchi and Spam Fried RiceSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltTo some, kimchi fried rice with spam is the ultimate drunk food; to others, it's the breakfast of champions (or the world's best hangover cure). All the more reason to keep a can or two of spam in the pantry and a big jar of kimchi and a pot of leftover rice in the fridge. (See, I told you that was a reason why I always make extra rice!)
Kimbap (Korean Seaweed Rice Rolls)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikGimbap is perhaps the most popular on-the-go food in Korea—found in school lunches, workplace cafeterias, convenience stores, and even shops dedicated solely to making and selling varieties of seaweed rice rolls. You can start with classic fillings like what we have here, or use leftover banchan, tuna salad, avocado, bulgogi, and more.
Homestyle BibimbapSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezLike gimbap, bibimbap is another popular rice-based dish. You can go with our version here, seasoning each component separately. Or, you can go rogue and assemble it with a combination of freshly made components, like the ground beef, carrots, and beansprouts, and already-made banchan from the fridge. Top it with a fried egg, and you've got yourself a well-balanced meal.
Dwaeji Bulgogi (Korean-Style Spicy Grilled Pork)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikGochujang in the marinade provides the sweet background notes for this char-grilled pork favorite. Just be sure to choose a fattier cut of meat so it stays tender and juicy. The dish is traditionally served with lettuce and perilla leaves for wrapping, lots of ssamjang sauce, steamed rice, and a host of banchan on the side.
Grilled Beef Galbi (Korean-Style Marinated Short Ribs)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWhen it comes to Korean-style barbecue, you can't go wrong with beef short ribs or galbi. Asian pear in the marinade is what provides the galbi with its distinctive sweet flavor. Don't forget the kitchen shears—it's what the pros use to cut the meat.
Jaeyook Kimchi Bokum (Korean Spicy Marinated Pork With Chiles and Kimchi)Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerThe key to this spicy pork stir-fry is to use a marinade similar to that for the galbi—consisting of gochujang, gochugaru, garlic, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil, rice wine, and puréed Asian pear. It comes together easily, so it's perfect for a weeknight meal, served with plenty of steamed rice.
Soondubu Jjigae (Korean Soft Tofu Stew)Serious Eats / Jessica LeibowitzThe word stew usually connotes a lengthy cooking process, but this soft tofu stew comes together in about twenty minutes. Kombu and dried anchovies are quickly simmered for the stock, then very fermented kimchi juice adds a punch of flavor. Serve the bubbling hot, comforting stew with lots of steamed rice.
Easy Chicken and Ginger Soup With Rice Cakes, Chives, and Quick-Pickled GarlicSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AlSimmering a whole cut-up chicken produces a rich broth that's made more flavorful with the addition of fresh ginger, fresh chiles, and pickled garlic. The chewy rice cakes provide a nice textural element.
Miyeok-Guk (Korean Seaweed and Brisket Soup)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThis deliciously nutritious seaweed soup is traditionally served to women after giving birth to help replenish vital nutrients. Called "birthday soup," moms young and old also make it for their offspring to eat to celebrate the day of their birth. The process is fairly straightforward and the actual hands-on cooking time is fairly short.
Ssamjang (Korean Barbecue Dipping Sauce)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikNo Korean barbecue or Bossam (Korean boiled pork wraps) would be complete without plenty of this dipping sauce on hand. This go-to condiment—combining the savory funk of doenjang with the sweet heat of gochujang—is about as vital to Korean cuisine as kimchi, and that's saying a lot.
Sweet and Spicy Chili Sauce For Korean Fried ChickenVicky WasikWe've all become obsessed with KFC, and I'm not talking about the Colonel. Korean fried chicken, more specifically this sweet and spicy chili sauce, has taken the food world by storm. And it couldn't be easier to make—simply whisk together gochujang, soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, garlic, ginger, and sesame oil.
Korean Kimchi Barbecue SauceSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerThis just might be your new go-to barbecue sauce for beef, chicken, pork, or fish. It has the funk of kimchi and punch of gochujang. Need we say more?
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperelin-SchirmWhen I started dating my now-husband, he hated seltzer. I could buy a case of it and it’d last me nearly two weeks. However, sometime between 2016 and now that changed dramatically. He’s become what I would call a bubbly water fiend, capable of easily consuming four to six cans a day.
I said “capable” because I’ve banned store-bought seltzer for the sake of his tooth enamel (possibly) and our recycling bin (definitely). Instead, we’re now a soda maker household. Having to carbonate the water himself limits my husband’s seltzer consumption to a reasonable amount.
This is all to say when I learned Breville released a new seltzer maker, I was excited. (Approximately 75% of my appliances are from Breville, so while this is not sponsored, come at me!) And when I found out said soda maker can carbonate anything—including lemonade or cocktails—my excitement bubbled up as if it were infused with CO2.
After testing the Breville, I’ve given it a permanent place on my countertop. While I do have a few qualms, it’s the most versatile soda maker I’ve tried yet.
The TestsSerious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm Carbon Dioxide Levels Test: I carbonated 800 grams of chilled water using 10 quarter-second bursts. I weighed the bottle before and after carbonating, removed the bottle’s FusionCap (more on this below), put the regular cap on, and popped it in the fridge for 24 hours. I then weighed it again, to see how much carbonation was lost. I repeated the test but placed the bottle in the fridge right after carbonating with the FusionCap still on. * Taste Test: I again carbonated 800 grams of (fresh) chilled water and then tasted it. I took notes on its overall fizziness and bubble size. * Non-Water Tests: I carbonated sun tea, lemonade, strawberry lemonade, and batch palomas (made with fresh grapefruit and lime juice, tequila, and sugar) to see how the InFizz Fusion did with a variety of non-water liquids. * Usability and Cleanup Tests:* Throughout testing, I noted how easy the soda maker was to use—including attaching and detaching the bottle and inserting the CO2 canister. I cleaned the bottle and cap by hand after each test.
What We LearnedIf You’re Gonna Carbonate Ahead of Time, Keep the FusionCap OnThe InFizz Fusion has helpful arrows showing you were to align the cap and the neck of the soda maker.Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmThe Breville InFizz Fusion comes with two caps: a standard one and a FusionCap. When carbonating, you must use the FusionCap, which is what twists onto the body of the soda maker and includes a nozzle for injecting the CO2. For my carbon dioxide levels test, I first swapped the FusionCap for the regular one before stashing the bottle in the fridge. After 24 hours, it lost seven grams of CO2. I repeated this test but kept the FusionCap on, transferring the bottle directly to the fridge after carbonating. After 24 hours, it lost zero grams of CO2.
The takeaway: If carbonating ahead of time, keep the FusionCap on for maximum bubbliness.
How Is the InFizz Fusion Able to Carbonate All Liquids?Fizzy strawberry lemonade was delightful.Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmMost soda makers (including SodaStreams) are only designed to carbonate water. If you try putting juice in one it could explode.
Why, then, is the InFizz Fusion able to carbonate other liquids? It comes down to the FusionCap. “The FusionCap itself is designed to withstand the additional pressure that builds up while carbonating non-water liquids (like juice),” a Breville representative told me. The cap has three valves within it, so there are multiple fail-safes ensuring the seal stays intact no matter what’s carbonated.
You see, CO2 readily dissolves in water, but not in non-water beverages, which makes the numerous valves necessary as pressure builds. The cap also features a red switch on its side, which allows you to release pressure—again, this is especially key for carbonating non-water liquids. When I made palomas, the pressure released for a good 20 seconds before the cap allowed me to loosen and remove it. (Think of a pressure cooker: After cooking and releasing pressure, if the lid still resists when you go to open it, don’t force it—continue to vent).
The lemonade and palomas I made with the InFizz Fusion were delightfully bubbly and stayed that way after an overnight stint in the fridge. The regular water had small, sweet bubbles that fizzed gently on the tip of my tongue. (I did not enjoy the sparkling sun tea, though that was purely due to its flavor and not because of the carbonator itself.)
There Were Some (Small) Usability Quibbles The one-liter bottle the soda maker came with was quite large for non-water drinks.Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmI’ll start with what I didn’t like. For starters, the FusionCap makes the bottle tall (about as big as a bottle of wine), which meant it could only fit under the highest shelf in my fridge. Also, the InFizz Fusion comes with one large, one-liter bottle. If you’re planning on carbonating anything but water, I’d recommend purchasing smaller bottles. To reach even the minimum fill line of the large bottle is a substantial amount of liquid—far more lemonade and batch cocktail than I (or two people) could drink in a single sitting. Additionally, I found placing the bottle onto the soda maker’s body to be somewhat finicky. Twice, the FusionCap unscrewed slightly when I twisted it on, causing the soda maker to sputter water up and out.
I do, however, love that the InFizz Fusion comes with a flexible bottle brush that has a small scrubber housed in its handle for cleaning the FusionCap. I also liked that the brushed stainless steel finish easily disguised smudges and fingerprints. Overall, it’s one sleek-looking soda maker.
The VerdictThe InFizz Fusion did an outstanding job carbonating water, lemonade, and cocktails—and it lost no carbonation overnight when stored with its FusionCap on. It’s exceptionally well-made, available in a variety of colors, and thoughtfully designed with features like an O-ring that allows you to slant the soda maker’s neck to easily attach and detach the bottle. It performed well and has been added as a winner in our soda maker review. (My husband declared the bubbles better than store-bought, too.)
The ProsFor a soda maker that can carbonate whatever you want (soda that’s gone flat, any kind of juice, a vat of Paper Planes), this is an option that, indeed, also creates pleasantly sparkly bubbly water.
The ConsThe large bottle is quite big for carbonating liquids other than water, so buy some additional small bottles if you plan on doing this. (For the high price, I wish the soda maker came with one large and one small bottle.) If you only ever want to carbonate water, I’d save $50 and buy the standard InFizz instead, which cannot handle other liquids.
Key Specs Materials: Brushed stainless steel with a die-cast lever; metal cap/base; BPA-free plastic bottle * Stated capacity: 1-liter * Dimensions: 16.9 x 5.9 x 10.2 inches * Care instructions: Hand-wash bottle and cap; drip tray and cleaning brush are dishwasher-safe; store bottle with the cap off * Warranty:* 2 years
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmFAQsHow do you insert a CO2 canister into the InFizz?The CO2 canister for the InFizz (and the InFizz Fusion) can be inserted into the underside of the machine, where the neck of the soda maker is. Be sure to twist it so it’s securely affixed.
How do you use the InFizz? After inserting the CO2 canister, fill the bottle to at least the minimum fill line (which is clearly marked), twist the FusionCap onto the bottle, and affix the bottle onto the neck of the soda maker. Press down on the lever on top of the soda maker to inject CO2.
Why We’re the Experts* Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm is the senior commerce editor at Serious Eats. She’s been with the site since 2021 and previously worked at America’s Test Kitchen, EatingWell, and Food52. She’s been testing gear professionally for about six years. * For this review, Riddley used the Breville InFizz Fusion to carbonate water, cocktails, lemonade, and more. She evaluated how easy the soda maker was to use and clean and how well it retained its carbonation.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI'm a firm believer in not reinventing the wheel, so when it came time to create a flavorful spicy strawberry lemonade, I did what any efficient recipe developer would: I brazenly cribbed from my colleagues. Which is to say, this recipe for a spicy strawberry lemonade is really Genevieve Yam's recipe for strawberry lemonade (and that recipe was built on the towering shoulders of Stella Parks' ultra-flavorful lemonade recipe). All I did was add the chiles, though I can at least take credit for having a lot of intention behind how I added those chiles.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo be clear, I used their recipes because they're so good, so thoughtful, and so much better than most of the other recipes out there for this sort of thing. Anyone can make a lemonade by mixing juice with sugar and water, and anyone can add strawberry flavor by muddling some ripe berries into the mix. But Stella's use of oleo-saccharum, in which lemon zests are macerated in sugar to draw out the flavorful and aromatic essential oils into a bright and fruity syrup, leads to a lemonade with complexity way beyond the typical stuff. And Genevieve's adaptation of that method to also macerate berries with the zest for a vibrant red and intensely fruity strawberry-lemon syrup is just as effective, and way more delicious than the more basic alternative. Why would I not do the same?
My little innovation was to work chiles into the mix to capitalize even further on this technique.
The Science of Extracting Chile Flavor for Spicy LemonadeThe thing with chiles is that much of their heat and flavor is fat-soluble, which can present a challenge for getting their full effect in a drink that is made only of juice, sugar, and water. That's not to say you can't muddle chiles into a lemonade—you can and you will of course taste them. But fat is the better vehicle for pulling out their full range of flavor and heat, and it's not an ingredient in almost any lemonade I've ever seen. Or is it?
This is where that oleo-saccharum lemonade base the Stella and Genevieve both used in their recipes comes in. The process of making oleo-saccharaum involves muddling and then macerating citrus zest with sugar. As the mixture sits, the oils in the zest leach out, wetting the sugar in a fatty glaze. At the same time, water that's also in the zest (and in this case in the strawberries as well) is pulled out too, dissolving the sugar and forming a syrupy emulsion with the oils.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThose oils, in turn, are exactly the kind of fat-based flavor-extracting medium we want for the chiles. By mincing the chiles finely and letting them sit in the sugary mixture with the lemon zest and strawberries, we get a powerfully flavorful syrup that, once mixed with the tart juice of the lemons, forms a concentrated flavor base for our drink. It works beautifully.
For this recipe, I tried not to go too hard on the chiles, since I find a more gentle heat to be pleasant with the fruity strawberries, versus the higher levels of heat I aimed for in my basic spicy lemonade and my refreshing cucumber-jalapeño limeade. I also opted for red chiles here, since I think their more ripe, fruity flavor pairs better with the berries and lemons than a green chile would.
You can of course increase the amount of chiles in this recipe if you want an even hotter drink, or decrease them if you want the chile element to be a more subtle background heat. That's the fun: You can take my recipe, tweak it slightly, and call it "yours" (though I'd of course appreciate a little bit of credit...alongside Genevieve and Stella).
For the Strawberry Lemonade Concentrate: In a large nonreactive mixing bowl, toss the strawberries with granulated sugar, lemon zest, and minced chiles. Refrigerate, stirring occasionally, until sugar has completely dissolved and chiles have infused into the syrup, about 2 hours.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeanwhile, juice the zested lemon halves (You should have about 1 cup of lemon juice). Refrigerate juice in an airtight container until ready to use.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen strawberry mixture is ready, stir in 3/4 cup (180ml) reserved lemon juice and 1 1/2 cups (355ml) water and refrigerate for another 30 minutes. Strain through a nonreactive fine-mesh strainer or piece of cheesecloth into a glass or ceramic container (you should have about 2 1/2 cups concentrate total). Cover and refrigerate the concentrate until ready to use.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor Serving: Pour strawberry lemonade concentrate into a large pitcher. Stir in 5 cups cold still or sparkling water and garnish with lemon slices and strawberry slices, if using. Dilute with additional water and remaining 1/4 cup lemon juice to taste, if needed (see notes). Serve over ice.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentSilicone spatula, cheesecloth or nonreactive fine-mesh strainer
NotesHow much chile you use will depend heavily on your tolerance for heat and the type of chile you use. In our testing, about 3 to 4 ounces of medium-hot red finger chiles (about 4 to 6 chiles) produced a lemonade with a good, but not oppressive, heat. Depending on your taste and the specific chiles you use, you may want to use more or less for a hotter or milder effect. You can also use smaller red chiles such as Thai bird's eye, but keep in mind that you may need to use less of hotter chiles like those. If in doubt, start with less and taste the strawberry-chile syrup as it develops; you can always add more but cannot remove the chiles if they're too much.
The ratio of the strawberry lemonade concentrate to water is based on my personal taste preference to create my ideal balanced sweet and tart drink. Adjust with additional water and lemon juice to your own taste level, keeping in mind the lemonade will dilute further when served over ice.
To make one serving of finished strawberry lemonade, combine 1/2 cup strawberry lemonade concentrate with 1 cup of cold water, garnish, adjust with water and lemon juice to taste, and serve over ice.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe spicy strawberry-lemonade concentrate can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to one week.
Serious Eats / Tyler RoelandMemorial Day Weekend is a time for rest, relaxation, lots of good food, and yes — deals. Since we test kitchen equipment and tools year-round, any opportunity to snag one of our favorite blenders, espresso machines, or air fryers at a discounted price is worth celebrating.
With Memorial Day nearly upon us, Amazon is already filled with deals on equipment and tools that we’ve loved and recommended for years. From the Vitamix 5200 professional-grade blender to the ThermoWorks Thermapen ONE, we’ve rounded up our favorite deals. Because really, who doesn’t love a sale on All-Clad cookware?
Editor’s Picks: A Top-Performing Stainless Steel Skillet: All-Clad D3 3-Ply 12-Inch Stainless Steel Fry Pan * One of the Best Saucepans: All-Clad D3 3-Ply 3-Quart Stainless Steel Saucepan * The Best Two-Burner Gas Grill: Weber Spirit II 2-Burner Liquid Propane Grill * The Best Blender: Vitamix 5200 Professional-Grade Blender * The Best Air Fryer: Instant Pot Vortex Plus 6-Quart 6-in-1 Air Fryer * A Sleek and Reliable Pizza Oven: Gozney Roccbox Pizza Oven * The Best Espresso Machine for Beginners: Breville Barista Express Impress * The Best Swedish Dishcloths: Swedish Wholesale Dishcloth, 10-Pack * The Best Instant-Read Thermometer: ThermoWorks Thermapen ONE * The Best Budget Chef’s Knife:* Mercer Culinary 8-Inch Millennia Chef's Knife
A Top-Performing Stainless Steel Skillet:All-Clad D3 3-Ply 12-Inch Stainless Steel Fry PanAmazonDuring our tests, the All-Clad 3-ply skillet heated evenly, seared beautifully, and withstood everything we threw at it. While All-Clad is usually a bit on the pricier side, we deemed it “worthy of the top spot, especially when the price tag dips.” The good news is, the price has indeed dropped — you can get it at a whopping 46% off.
Food & Wine / Russell KilgoreOne of the Best Saucepans:All-Clad D3 3-Ply 3-Quart Stainless Steel SaucepanAmazonHeat-responsive and easy to clean, the All-Clad D3 3-ply saucepan was our splurge pick for saucepans, but it’s on sale for 33% off right now. The saucepan is a workhorse that can make a great pot of rice, brown butter consistently, and evenly cook pastry cream. We’re big fans of All-Clad in general, and think its cookware is especially worth grabbing when it’s discounted.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerThe Best Two-Burner Gas Grill: Weber Spirit II 2-Burner Liquid Propane GrillAmazonFor those with small backyards or patio areas, we named the Weber Spirit II 2-burner grill the best compact gas grill, and it’s on sale at nearly 20% off. It’s the smaller version of our overall best pick, with a total surface cooking area of 20.32 inches by 17.5 inches. For its smaller size, it has exceptional heat retention and can still comfortably grill for a smaller crowd.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe Best Blender: Vitamix 5200 Professional-Grade BlenderAmazonWe’ve loved Vitamix blenders for years, and the Vitamix 5200 professional-grade blender has been our top-performer every time we’ve put it to the test. For 10 years, it’s been our favorite thanks to its powerful motor that excels at turning the stickiest, most fibrous ingredients into smooth and creamy purées. Vitamix blenders rarely go on sale, so grab this one for $150 off while you still can.
The Spruce Eats / Tamara StaplesThe Best Air Fryer: Instant Pot Vortex Plus 6-Quart 6-in-1 Air FryerAmazonFor days when you don’t want to go near a stovetop or oven, it’s useful to have a multitasking air fryer that can broil, dehydrate, roast, reheat, bake, and of course, fry, to perfection. We’ve loved the Instant Pot Vortex air fryer since we first tested it in 2021. Across all of the tests, it achieved the best crisp on frozen fries, homemade fries, chicken wings, and was a breeze to clean. With the onsite coupon, it’s a solid 20% off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreA Sleek and Reliable Pizza Oven:Gozney Roccbox Pizza OvenGozneyMemorial Day Weekend marks the official start of al fresco dining season. As far as outdoor pizza ovens go, the Gozney Roccbox pizza oven has been one of our top picks for years, and it’s 20% off through Memorial Day Weekend. Simply put, it’s easy to use, reliable, and can hit 900ºF in just 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThe Best Espresso Machine for Beginners:Breville Barista Express ImpressAmazonThe world of espresso machines can be intimidating, but the Breville Barista Express Impress is an incredibly approachable machine for making espresso at home. We named this model the best machine for beginners since it comes with a built-in grinder, an automatic portioning system, and an assisted tamping lever. For those who want to hit the ground running with quality espresso at home without any fuss, the Breville Barista Express Impress is a great option, and it’s currently 20% off.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonSwedish Wholesale Dishcloth, 10-PackAmazonSwedish dishcloths are a secret tool to defeat kitchen messes of any kind, and we recommended these Swedish Wholesale dishcloths for their superior absorbency, affordability, and quick air-drying time. They’re also machine-washable, so after you sop up a spill, just toss it in the machine. Right now, they’re even more budget-friendly at just $13 for a 10-pack.
Serious Eats / Eric KingThe Best Instant-Read Thermometer: ThermoWorks Thermapen ONEThermoWorksWe’re serious about food safety, and nothing beats our favorite instant-read thermometer, the ThermoWorks Thermapen ONE. It works quickly (2 to 3-second read times) and has a rotating display plus adjustable probe for ultimate versatility when you’re temping over a sizzling skillet or smokey grill. Right now, you can grab one on the ThermoWorks site for 20% off.
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezThe Best Budget Chef’s Knife: Mercer Culinary 8-Inch Millennia Chef's KnifeAmazonA quality chef’s knife is essential to every kitchen, and the Mercer Culinary chef’s knife is a great budget option for those looking for a sturdy knife they can knock around. While it’s not our top knife, it’s still impressively sharp and very light, making it easy to work with for burgeoning cooks who are finessing their knife skills. At 45% off the already affordable price, it’s now even more of a steal.
Serious Eats / Dera Burreson
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI will be the first to tell you that I am not a baker. I don't mean that I can't bake, I can—if you doubt me, watch me make the infamous pecan pie recipe that Stella Parks deemed so difficult she refused to release to the public. For me, baking usually involves more effort than I care to expend on dessert, a part of the meal that I consider fully optional. This means that my sweet spot for desserts is anything with a great effort-to-reward ratio, and if the bananas Foster is anything, it's that.
What makes bananas Foster so great is how high it scores on all the following metrics: Easy to make? Check. Impressive? Check, check. Delicious? Check, check, check. Pyrotechnics? Check, check, check, check, check, and...IGNITION.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThose flames can be a hurdle, though. Recipes that involve a setting a bonfire to a skillet can be intimidating, so let's address this head-on. First, you don't have to light the alcohol on fire, you can successfully simmer the caramel with the booze the caramel reaches a good stage for serving; the alcohol will mostly have cooked off at that point anyway. But second, it's really not that hard. Just think about who traditionally makes bananas Foster. (Hint: It's not the chefs.) I'll explain.
Flash in the Pan: Why the Origins of Bananas Foster Explain Its EaseBananas Foster is a New Orleans classic, invented in the 1950s at the restaurant Brennan's in honor of Richard Foster, the city's crime commissioner at the time. Watch any video of bananas Foster being made at Brennan's (there are a lot!), and you'll notice that this is one of those tableside desserts that restaurants like to do for a little dining-room theatrics. I mean, I get it, the pyrotechnics are cool.
But you can only do tableside service for dishes that are easy to make, for a couple reasons. First, the dish has to be quick and simple enough to prepare in minutes using minimal gear and ingredients. It doesn't work to have the maître d' pull up a cooking trolley and then slowly stir a pot in front of you while saying, "And now we'll keep cooking this roux for another 45 minutes until it's dark enough for a proper gumbo. Care for a cocktail?"
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAnd that's the other thing: It's usually a maître d' or other front-of-house staff doing the cooking, not the actual cooks in the kitchen, and while I mean no disrespect, being a great cook isn't part of any front-of-house job description. So a tableside dish like bananas Foster has to be something the wait staff and management can quickly learn to whip up successfully on repeat with a side of flair and entertaining monologue.
None of it will work if it's a difficult or time-consuming dish to make.
Look How Easy!I can write all day about how contextual clues are proof that bananas Foster is easy, but I can also just tell you. It's this easy:
- Melt butter and brown sugar in a pan along with a pinch of salt and warm spices like cinnamon and nutmeg.
- Add bananas and cook as caramel forms.
- Add booze and light it on fire. Cook until flames die down and caramel looks good.
- Serve with ice cream.
One note on the booze: In the original recipe from Brennan's, both rum and banana liqueur go into the pan. I considered calling for banana liqueur here too, but eventually decided against it. I'm sure there are some legitimate uses for banana liqueur and perhaps some of you reading this already have a bottle in your liquor cabinet. But I can't in good conscience call for an ingredient with such limited utility when you really don't need it here. The bananas in the pan are banana-y enough, the rum tastes great, you will not miss it.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThat said, if you have banana liqueur and want to add a splash, please do—though as with all flambés, never pour directly from any bottle of booze directly into the pan with a flame under it, lest the fire leaps up and lights the whole bottle on fire. The goal is to flambé the alcohol in the pan, not make a Molotov cocktail.
The classic way to serve bananas Foster is with some ice cream, usually vanilla but I say have fun with whatever flavor appeals to you. This raises a kind of definitional question that I'd like to leave you with: Is bananas Foster a dessert unto itself, in which à la mode is the typical way to serve it? Or are we really just making a banana–flavored caramel sauce for ice cream? My god, I just realized it's an à la minute banana split, served hot. I think I just lit my brain on fire.
In a large 12-inch stainless-steel skillet over medium-high heat, melt butter with the brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt while stirring and swirling, until mixture blends into a grainy liquid and begins to bubble, about 2 minutes. Add bananas, cut side down, and continue to cook, swirling gently, until liquid begins to resemble a more smooth caramel, about 2 minutes longer.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd rum (do not pour directly from the bottle if working over an open flame), then tilt pan to ignite the alcohol from a gas burner, or carefully light with a match. Cook, shaking the pan, until the flames have died out and the caramel has thickened to a honey consistency, about 1 to 2 minutes. Alternatively, you can add the rum and not light it on fire, instead simmering until the rum has mostly cooked off and the caramel has reached a honey consistency.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFlip bananas cut side up, then transfer to serving plates with ice cream (2 pieces of banana each for 6 servings; 3 pieces of banana each for 4 servings; or 4 pieces of banana each for 3 servings).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMake-Ahead and StorageBananas Foster is best made right before serving and eaten immediately.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI grew up eating banana whip, aka banana ice cream or “nice cream,” a fluffy vegan dessert made of just bananas that was somehow as creamy and satisfying as real ice cream. During my childhood summers in Ocean City, New Jersey, every Sunday morning my sister and I would stroll the boardwalk together, dodging the speeding surreys, and stop at our favorite café, the Bashful Banana for their self-described "famous" banana whip. To me, their banana whip was actually better than ice cream. It was refreshing on a hot day and had the perfect silky custard-like texture, brimming with fresh banana flavor. As a kid, I also loved that since it was just puréed bananas, it was an acceptable “ice cream” to eat any time of day.
As an adult, banana whip is still one of my go-to frozen treats, and it might be the easiest "ice cream" to make at home. Bananas are a perfect choice for a creamy base: Their high pectin content allows them to remain creamy when frozen and their natural sweetness means that you don't need to add any sugar.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the simplest nice cream, you just need to toss frozen bananas into a food processor and give it a good whirl. But for truly stellar banana ice cream, I like to add a splash of oat milk, almond milk, whole milk, or heavy cream, which ups the luscious creaminess of the blend, along with a bit of vanilla and lemon juice. If you like soft-serve consistency, eat it right away. For more traditional scoops, freeze it in an airtight container, and dole out as you would any traditional ice cream. Whether enjoyed right out of the processor bowl or from the freezer, it's absolutely delicious. Here are a few tips for the creamiest banana ice cream ever.
Tips for Creamy Banana Ice CreamGive your blender a break and use your food processor instead. Over the years I’ve tested making banana whips in both a blender and a food processor, and I’ve always had the best success with a food processor. Unless you have a very high-powered blender, the mixture won’t always fully catch the blender’s small blade, and will require a lot of scraping down off the sides of the blender jar. The work bowl of the food processor is wider and flatter than a blender jar, exposing the frozen bananas to more air than a blender does. The result: lighter, silkier banana whip. The large cutting blade of the food processor also cuts through the frozen bananas more easily than the smaller blades of a blender, which means you need less liquid to properly blend the mixture. This guarantees a rich, creamy, ice cream texture.
Briefly thaw and slice the frozen bananas before processing. Blitzing whole frozen solid bananas into the food processor could possibly damage the blade. Take a few minutes to soften the frozen bananas on your countertop and slice before adding to the food processor bowl. This will speed up the processing time and will ensure a smooth texture throughout the entire mixture. Trust me, your food processor’s blade will thank you and you’ll have better nice cream too.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezProcess the bananas with your preferred milk or even water. Adding a small amount of liquid helps the processor’s blade catch the bananas to purée properly without needing to constantly scrape down the bowl every ten seconds. It also lends the mixture a bit more creaminess. Use your preferred dairy or dairy substitute. In a pinch, you could even just use water.
Add a touch of vanilla, lemon juice, and salt to intensify the banana flavor. While lemon juice and vanilla extract are not mandatory for the recipe’s success, I love how lemon juice’s acidity and vanilla extract’s depth of flavor enhance and brighten the banana flavor. Play with the recipe and try adding one, the other, or both to the mix. Meanwhile, as with most desserts, a pinch of salt further enhances the flavors.
Get creative with add-ins. Consider adding a spoonful of peanut butter, chocolate-hazelnut spread such as Nutella, or honey; a handful of chocolate chips or almonds; or 1/4 teaspoon of ground cinnamon or cardamom when processing the banana mixture. I add a different flavor almost every time I make my soon-to-be-famous banana whip at home.
Peel bananas, place in a large zipper-lock bag, and press out excess air. Freeze bananas until solid, at least 8 hours.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLet bananas sit at room temperature to soften slightly, about 15 minutes. Slice into 1/2-inch-thick rounds. In a food processor, place banana slices, milk or cream, vanilla, lemon juice, if using, and salt and process until smooth, about 5 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl as needed.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor a softer texture, serve immediately, or for a firmer ice cream, transfer mixture to an airtight container and freeze until firm, at least 2 hours. Serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentFood processor
NotesBe sure to use very ripe, heavily speckled (or even black) bananas in this recipe.
You can skip the freezing in step 3 and serve the ice cream immediately, but the texture will be softer.
Make-Ahead and StorageBananas can be peeled and frozen in an airtight container for up to 3 months before you prepare the ice cream (they will remain safe indefinitely but quality can begin to suffer over time).
The finished banana ice cream can be transferred to an airtight container and frozen for up to 7 days.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyStudded with pineapple chunks, bananas, crunchy pecans, and coated in a tangy cream cheese frosting, hummingbird cake is an opulent dessert that’s been a mainstay of Southern tables since the 1970s. Though hummingbird cake is an American classic, it hails from Jamaica and is also known as the Dr. Bird cake—its name is a nod to the island’s national bird, who locals refer to as Dr. Bird. Writing for Epicurious, Riaz Phillips notes that the cake gained popularity after the Jamaican Tourist Board distributed a recipe to local newspapers to promote the island’s local bananas and pineapples.
“The cake itself is the height of mid 20th century post-colonial tropical flair,” Phillips writes. “Bananas and pineapples are blended into a sponge that’s enhanced with spices like vanilla, nutmeg, and cinnamon—ingredients that are almost an afterthought today, but were still relatively novel at the time.” The recipe made its way to America, where some home cooks nicknamed it “The Cake That Won’t Last Long” because, well, it was so delicious that it never did. Its popularity soared after Southern Living published a reader-submitted recipe for the cake in 1978, and today, the 45-year-old recipe remains one of the magazine’s most popular recipes of all time.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyWhen Serious Eats asked our colleague Nicole Hopper, a seasoned recipe developer, to create a new hummingbird cake recipe for us, we knew we wanted it to be true to the original. But we also wanted to pack in as much sweet banana and pineapple flavor as possible without being cloying or stodgy, as some hummingbird cakes can be. Hopper delivered, with a simple, delicious cake that gets a big tropical kick from mashed and chopped bananas and crushed pineapple, with fragrant toasted pecans for crunch and a tart cream cheese frosting to balance the sweetness of the cake. I’d happily have a slice of it—frosted or unfrosted—with a cup of coffee every afternoon if I could.
Hummingbird cake is relatively easy to whip up, but the tips below will help you make a phenomenal one each time. Just don’t be surprised if it disappears quickly—with not a crumb left behind—when you serve it to guests. It is, after all, the cake that won’t last long.
Tips for Preparing Hummingbird CakeUse bleached cake flour. High protein flours tend to develop more gluten, resulting in sturdier, tougher baked goods. While this is great for bread, it’s not ideal for a cake in which you want a tender crumb. With a lower protein content than pastry flour and all-purpose flour, cake flour produces a light and fluffy crumb, making it our go-to flour for hummingbird cake. (Former Serious Eats editor Stella Parks has written at length about the science behind bleached cake flour.)
Overripe bananas are your best friend. The riper the banana, the sweeter it is. As the fruit matures, its starches convert into sugar, developing rich notes of caramel, honey, and pineapple. Ripe bananas are easier to mash, too, which makes prep much faster and easier. Look for speckled fruit with brown or black patches. If your banana could pass for a giraffe, you’re on the right track.
Mash—and chop—your bananas. Most hummingbird cake recipes call for just mashed bananas, but we wanted chunks of banana dispersed throughout, too. We experimented with just chunks, but the fruit wasn’t evenly distributed and the batter lacked the tropical notes that mashed banana brought. The solution? Using both mashed and chopped bananas. It’s the best of both worlds, and ensures you get banana flavor in every bite.
Go for the canned pineapple. Fresh pineapple contains bromelain, an enzyme that can break down proteins. This spells bad news for glutenin and gliadin, two proteins that serve as the building blocks of gluten. As the cake bakes, the bromelain eats away at the gluten proteins, resulting in a stodgy crumb. Canned pineapple doesn’t have any active bromelain, as the process of heating the pineapple to 158ºF (70ºC) deactivates the enzyme. To prevent your cake from baking into an unpleasantly heavy brick, use canned crushed pineapple in lieu of fresh.
Toast your pecans. To bring out the sweet, delicate flavors of pecans, toast them briefly on a baking sheet in the oven until they’re golden brown and fragrant. The nuttiness adds another layer of flavor to the cake, and complements the sweetness of the fruit.
Keep the cream cheese frosting simple. Cream cheese frosting is a must for hummingbird cake. For this recipe, we beat cream cheese, unsalted butter, confectioners sugar, a tablespoon of reserved pineapple juice from the can, and vanilla extract together. Spread generously between the layers and over the cake, it provides a tangy contrast to the cake’s tropical flavors.
Take the internal temperature of the cake. Bakers typically gauge the doneness of their cakes with a toothpick, cake tester, or by lightly pressing the top of the cake to see if it springs back gently. Because hummingbird cake is so moist and packed full of fruit and nuts, it can be difficult to tell when it’s done with those traditional methods. The most reliable way to see if the cake is ready to come out of the oven is to take the internal temperature of the cake with an instant read thermometer. Look for a temperature of 200ºF (93ºC).
Prepare the Cakes: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F (175ºC). Lightly grease three 8-inch round cake pans with baking spray and line with parchment. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseySpread pecan halves in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until fragrant and toasted, about 8 minutes. Set aside until cool enough to handle, then chop finely (pieces no larger than ¼-inch). Set aside.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyIn a large bowl, whisk together sugar, oil, eggs, and vanilla until smooth. Drain 1 tablespoon of juice from crushed pineapple; set aside for Frosting.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyChop 2 of the bananas into small pieces (about 1 cup), and mash the other two (about 2/3 cup). Add chopped and mashed bananas to sugar mixture along with remaining crushed pineapple and its juice. Using a flexible spatula, stir to combine. In another large bowl, whisk together flour, cinnamon, salt, baking soda, baking powder, and allspice until evenly combined.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyPour sugar mixture into flour mixture and, using the same spatula, gently fold until only a few streaks of flour remain. Fold in reserved toasted chopped pecans until evenly dispersed. Divide batter evenly between prepared cake pans (about 650g or 23 ounces per pan). Gently tap pans on counter to smooth batter and release any air bubbles.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyBake until cakes are golden on top, spring back gently to the touch, and an instant read thermometer inserted in the center registers 200°F (93ºC), 25 to 28 minutes.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyCool cakes in their pan on a cooling rack for 10 minutes. Run an offset spatula or butter knife around edges of cakes, then invert cake onto a plate and transfer back to rack to cool completely, parchment-side down, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyPrepare the Frosting: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, or, using an electric hand mixer, beat cream cheese and butter on medium-low speed until smooth and creamy, 1 to 2 minutes, stopping to scrape down sides as needed. Reduce mixer speed to low, and gradually add powdered sugar, beating until fully incorporated after each addition. Add reserved 1 tablespoon pineapple juice and vanilla, and increase mixer speed to medium-high; beat until fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyUsing a serrated knife, level cakes if necessary and set the scraps aside for snacking. Remove and discard parchment paper. Place 1 layer, top-side-up, on a turntable. If you like, a waxed cardboard cake round can first be placed underneath, secured to the turntable with a scrap of damp paper towel. Top with 1 cup frosting, using an offset spatula to spread it evenly from edge to edge. Repeat with the second and third layers, placing the cake layers bottom-side up, then cover the top and sides of the cake with a very thin layer of frosting to form a crumb coat. Refrigerate, uncovered, until frosting is mostly set, 30 to 40 minutes.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyRemove cake from refrigerator. Using an offset spatula, cover cake with remaining frosting, spreading it as smoothly as you can over top and sides of cake. Decorate with pecans, as desired.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseySpecial EquipmentThree 8-inch round cake pans, nonstick baking spray with flour, parchment paper, whisk, flexible spatula, stand mixer, offset spatula, serrated knife, turntable
Serious Eats/Sarah MaidenI am not a morning person. Despite spending most of my 20s working opening shifts at coffee shops—waking up with just enough time to brush my teeth and throw on some clothes before my usual 6 a.m. shifts—being a barista was an ongoing fight against my natural state. I am a morning curmudgeon who can't be bothered to stir from bed before hitting the snooze button thousands of times. Once I’m up, I tend to move at a snail's speed getting my day started.
Being a slow starter in the morning also means I often pour myself a mug of coffee and completely forget about it, which I'm sure has happened to us all. Maybe you get a phone call, or maybe a kid needs something. Or maybe you just walk into a room, set your mug down, forget about it and walk away, only to discover your frigid cup hours later.
So, what should you do with that forgotten mug? Should you throw out your cup of coffee, even if you just abandoned it for a few minutes? Is there a hard time stamp on how long a cup of coffee retains its freshly brewed flavor before its past saving and might as well be thrown away? (Or just slammed down if you really need that caffeine and don’t have time to make a new cup?)
We wanted to see how coffee flavor changes over time as it cools, so we put it to the test. I brewed coffee and tasted it at set intervals over two hours to analyze its flavor and to look into the science of what is happening to the coffee’s flavor as its temperature drops. I wanted to find out if there is an ideal time frame during which a cup of coffee tastes its best. Just how bad does coffee really get as it cools? I also performed side by side taste tests in which I compared the flavor of coffee that had been reheated in the microwave to the same batch of coffee left sitting for the same time, without reheating, and to fresh coffee to see how zapping it affects the quality. Finally, I applied my knowledge of flavor science to fully understand coffee’s flavor journey. Here’s what I found.
The Science Behind What Happen's to Coffee's Flavor as It CoolsTwo significant factors impact how we perceive the flavor of coffee over time. Strangely enough, they almost fight one another. First, volatile components in coffee dissipate over time, meaning the sooner we can drink our coffee, the more flavor components are available to us. But the second component, temperature, inhibits our ability to experience the full range of flavors because humans are bad at tasting at temperature extremes (either hot or cold), meaning the closer to body temperature you can drink your coffee, the more flavor and complexity you can taste.
Serious Eats/Ashley RodriguezHow volatile compounds affect flavor: First, volatile components in coffee dissipate as coffee cools. This includes things like lipids, amino acids, and chlorogenic acid—but the specific type and amount of volatile components in a bean are significantly affected by the variety of bean, roast profile, grind size, brewing method, and even the kind of water you use.
Dr. Christopher Hendon, an associate professor of chemistry at the University of Oregon and co-author of the book Water for Coffee: Science Story Manual*says that the specific compounds you lose over time depend on the coffee itself, but you're generally losing aromatics (the things that make coffee smell good). Since flavor comes from both our sense of taste and smell, this significantly impacts what we perceive in the cup. Hendon notes that "If you like the smell of the coffee when you grind it, that's what you're losing [when you allow it to cool]."
*(He’s currently working on a second edition of the book, the first edition is nearly impossible to find. I had to check out a copy from a friend of mine like it was a library book, and when visiting my house for dinner weeks later, he stealthily took it back).
What we describe as the flavor of coffee is a combination of what we taste and what we smell, and because many of the things that contribute to what we smell dissipate over time, we want to enjoy them as quickly as possible. “Most of coffee's flavor is retro nasal, which is lost with the cup sitting over time,” says Hendon.
How temperature affects flavor: The second major factor that impacts our ability to perceive specific flavors is the coffee’s temperature. "As you move further away from your body temperature, the thing you're tasting and smelling becomes more difficult to perceive," says Hendon. He notes that we're bad at perceiving flavor at the polar opposite ends of temperature—very hot or cold. If you’ve ever heard you should drink crappy beer ice cold, this is why: When a beer is very cold, it’s hard to taste the off or negative flavors. The same is true with coffee, just on the other end of the temperature spectrum.
Hendon cites a study published in 2000 in the journal Nature "Thermal stimulation of taste," by Alberto Cruz and Barry G. Green, which tracked flavor sensations and their perceptibility over different temperatures. "Not every smell and taste comes into your perception at the same rate," Hendon explains. Hendon says this is biological: “Humans can taste sweetness more as things progress towards body temperature… because you need to know if the plant you're eating is going to kill you (bitter) at more temperatures than if the plant you’re eating tastes sweet.”
Coffee has bitter components called chlorogenic acids, which you can pretty much taste at most temperatures. It’s other more pleasant notes that generally come out as coffee cools. "You need coffee to be dropping as close to body temperature as possible to be able to taste everything,” says Hendon.
But let’s go back to the crappy beer analogy. Like beer, coffee can vary in flavor based on quality. And quality isn’t just impacted by growing conditions, but rather all along the supply chain, from how it’s stored at various stages to how it’s roasted. As coffee cools, quality issues will really jump out. "For some coffees, you might not want to taste everything," Hendon says. High quality coffee that’s brewed well will probably taste pretty good as it cools, but low quality coffee or coffee that’s brewed poorly will show all of its bad flavors.
It feels like the loss of volatile components is competing with our ability to taste more fully as items get closer to body temperature, so what’s the ideal temperature to enjoy coffee? Because every coffee is made of different compounds, it really depends. A coffee from Colombia might have different volatile components than one from Ethiopia; a darker roasted coffee will have different volatile components than a lighter roasted coffee, so that ideal point can be hard to find. “So the tipping point [is] between being able to taste everything, and not everything being available to taste,” says Hendon. With those caveats, I forged ahead and tested one of my own favorite brews at various temperatures to see how it changed over time.
The Temperature and Time Taste TestThere's a lot of science and research dedicated to exploring how flavor changes in coffee, from how it's grown to how it's brewed. But theory is different from practice, and I wanted to see if I, an experienced but realistic coffee taster, could tell the difference in flavor as a coffee cooled.
Serious Eats/Ashley RodriguezThe Test Set-UpI designed an experiment in which I brewed a cup of coffee on my everyday coffee brewer (a Ratio 6, which I picked as my favorite brewer when I tested coffee makers for Serious Eats) and tasted and temperature tested (using an instant-read thermometer) every ten minutes for the first hour, then again at the one-hour and two-hour mark. Precision was key to this experiment: I took the temperature of the room (it stayed consistently 69℉), and I didn't open any doors or use other appliances that might change the temperature of the room (Hendon notes that this could impact how the coffee cools and changes).
I brewed a blend from Kin Kin Coffee called Weirdland at a 1:16 ratio of ground coffee to water (for this experiment, I used 60 grams of coffee to 960g of water). After the coffee was brewed, I immediately poured exactly eight ounces of coffee into the most standard diner-style mug I own, since volume affects the rate of temperature change. (Side note: Finding a standard sized coffee mug was difficult as I live in a house full of coffee lovers and we have an interesting collection of funky mugs, few of which were the right size for my tests. My only diner mug features an illustration of David Letterman, made by Variety Coffee Roasters back when I worked there in the mid-2010s.)
The ResultsHere is a breakdown of the coffee’s temperature, my tasting notes, and a brief explanation of what’s happening in the cup at every interval of tasting.
0 to 30 MinutesTemperature: Under ordinary circumstances, the rate at which coffee cools depends on several variables—how much was poured, room temperature, size of sips—but in general, coffee will lose most of its temperature in the first minutes and then begin to taper. With my highly controlled testing parameters outlined above, I noted a significant drop in temperature from the first reading (taken right when I poured the coffee) to the second (taken ten minutes later). The coffee temperature in this test dropped a steep 32℉ from 157 to 125℉ in just the first 10 minutes. After the initial 30 minutes the rate of cooling did seem to slow down.
Tasting Summary: I enjoyed the coffee overall most around the 20 to 30 minute mark (before that the coffee was either too hot, or I just didn’t experience as much flavor expression as when the coffee cooled down more). At that range, the coffee was still hot, between 102 to 110℉, and I could perceive the most flavor complexity—there was a nice balance of sweetness and acidity on the front end balanced by a bit of bitterness on the back end of tasting.
Serious Eats/Ashley Rodriguez40 to 50 MinutesTemperature: Between 40 and 50 minutes, the coffee temperature only dropped 4℉. At the 40 minute mark I wished the coffee was hotter, but it was still pleasantly warm, while at the 50 minute mark was the first point where the coffee tasted cold.
Tasting Summary: Around the 40-minute mark, I noticed a really specific (and delicious!) note of caramel, which reminded me of something Hendon said: "I tell roasters, 'Hey, you can give [customers] your flavor notes all you want, but if you don't tell them the temperature to taste that, then they're not going to taste it.'"
He's talking about the flavor notes on a bag of coffee. The bag of coffee beans I used for my tests said it tasted like dried fruit and caramel, and while I perceived sweetness pretty much throughout the drinking experience, it became crystal clear much later. This also made sense given my experience in professional tasting settings. (I’ve worked for roasting companies where lots of members of our team come together to taste new coffees and set flavor notes that get printed on retail bags and we taste a coffee repeatedly, often letting it get to room temperature before we finalize our notes.
1 to 2 hoursTemperature: At this time range, the coffee was cold—below body temperature—dropping from 81 to 75℉ over the course of the hour.
Tasting Summary: I was dying for this cup to be hotter, even though I got the most specific "flavors" later in the coffee-drinking journey. I didn’t perceive a ton of negative or off flavors, but the flavor transformed from caramel to flat cola, which makes sense (flat cola basically just tastes sweet without any complexity). The fact that the coffee still didn’t have any extreme unpleasant flavor when cold is a testament to starting with well roasted beans.
Keeping It Tasty: How Long Before Coffee's Flavor Takes a Turn for the WorseSo is there a preferred time and temperature range when coffee is at its best? Well, it’s complicated. With this test my ideal sipping time was the 10 to 20 minute range, where the coffee hovered around the 110°F mark, and it had a complex flavor as described above. But different coffees have different compounds that are different with each batch roasted.
As I wrapped up my testing notes, I realized I gave the coffee every opportunity to thrive: I used quality beans, ground my coffee fresh (using a grinder I love, the Fellow Ode Gen 2), and used a highly effective brewer. This makes me think that the issues with coffee tasting "bad" or "stale" as it cools have more to do with the tools and ingredients you choose to make coffee than it simply going bad over time.
If anything, this experiment convinced me that quality is everything and that a well-sourced and roasted coffee will remain pleasant as it cools. At no point did I find the coffee’s flavor unpleasant. And flavor-wise it even stood up well to freshly brewed coffee.
Although I perceived flavor sensations differently as the temperature changed, the coffee never tasted stale or old. So, if you notice that your coffee goes south the minute it cools, that might be more indicative of the quality of your coffee.
I've referenced this quote before in my review of temperature-controlled mugs, but it feels apt here: Coffee legend George Howell once said that drinking coffee should be a "thirty-minute pleasure trip," and part of the experience is enjoying it as it cools.
It’s incredibly pleasurable to drink something when it’s warm, but a really lovely coffee should taste good at all temperatures. Hendon says his ideal drinking temperature is around 140° F )60° C) “where it's hot enough that I won't just chug it, but it's cold enough that I can actually taste it." So, while I can say delicious coffee should be good at all temperatures, I don't mean to say you should just enjoy your room-temperature coffee—rather, you should try to keep your coffee hot as long as possible.
Regardless, there are some ways to prevent such a stark drop off in temperature: preheat your mug, cover your mug, or use one of the temperature-controlled mugs I mentioned above. The ones I recommend do a superb job of keeping the coffee hot without applying excessive heat that can impact flavor.
Let's Reheat It: What Happen's to Coffee's Flavor When It's Reheated in the MicrowaveWhen your coffee gets unpleasantly cold, you might be inclined to throw it in the microwave. That's totally fine, but based on my tests and research, you'll never recapture the flavor it had when it was hot.
Hendon says microwaves "apply a specific energy associated with exciting OH bonds," or the bonds between water molecules. Things with a high water content—like coffee—get hot in the microwave "because the water vibrates." When water molecules vibrate, they generate heat, which can catalyze other chemical reactions of the particles surrounding water. Bonds between other compounds in your coffee can break down, with unpleasant results. For example chlorogenic acids break down into caffeic acid and quinic acid and are more perceptible as bitter.
Basically, you're not simply heating coffee when you throw it in the microwave but causing a whole new set of chemical reactions to happen, which can alter the flavor. But to see how the science plays out under real-life tests, I went ahead and zapped some coffee.
Serious Eats/Ashley RodriguezThe Microwave TestIn the most millennial sentence I've ever written, I don't own a microwave, so my first step in testing was purchasing a cheap one at Goodwill. After my coffee sat for two hours, I threw it in the microwave for 45 seconds and measured its temperature using an instant read thermometer (a Thermapen in this case).
Taking the temperature of this coffee was wild. If I stuck the Thermapen all the way to the bottom, the temperature was significantly cooler than towards the top. (Hendon mentioned that because microwaves target OH bonds, things like a porcelain mug can remain pretty cool to the touch while the coffee inside gets hot.) The reading towards the top was around 160° F, so I took a sip immediately after reheating (warning: it was HOT. Don't do this.) and about five minutes later when it cooled down slightly to 140℉ and tasted it and compared it to coffee that was freshly brewed and coffee from the same batch that had been sitting for two hours, but not reheated.
The Result of the Microwave TestThe nuked coffee didn't taste like the coffee when freshly brewed or sitting and left lukewarm . By my professional standards, it tasted… weird. There were some strange "cooked" notes, and it had a fake sugar sweetness. But did I hate it? No. It was different, but it wasn't bad, and it felt nice to sip on something hot again after slurping lukewarm coffee all afternoon.
The TakeawayMy main advice is that you should always drink what you like: if you want your coffee piping hot at all times, I won't stop you from throwing it in the microwave. If you're like George Howell and are ready to embark on the 30 pleasure ride, try this experiment out for yourself and see how the coffee changes and opens up over time. There are no right or wrong ways to drink coffee, but understanding what variables impact flavor is key to delivering your best brew.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonAlthough a skilled barista makes it look easy, a lot goes into pulling a perfect shot. They need to understand their espresso machine inside and out for consistency and speed.
For those just beginning their home espresso journey, the first step is acquiring the right machine, which can be daunting. The market is chock full of models that use different brewing methods and have extra features—not to mention how expensive they can be.
To figure out which espresso machine will work best for you, you'll need to know what you want out of a brewer, how much time you'd like to devote to learning, and what types of machines are available.
Types of Espresso Machines Home espresso machines are divided into a few categories based on the degree of automation they provide the user. These include semi-automatic, super-automatic, automatic, and manual.
Semi-AutomaticSerious Eats / Nick SimpsonSemi-automatic espresso machines are the most widely used in both home and professional settings. Their defining characteristic is that they allow the user to stop and start the brewing process with a button or switch.
“This is the way coffee gets made in cafes for a reason. It’s a balance of consistency and customizability that can both lead to repeatable, delicious results and give you room to tinker,” explains Maciej Kasperowicz, director of coffee and certified Q Grader for Trade Coffee. Using a semi-automatic machine gives the user control over the brewing process. For those looking to produce the best possible espresso and who are interested in dialing in variables and learning the ins and outs of pulling a shot, it's the way to go.
The biggest hurdle to using a semi-automatic machine is that it necessitates an investment in extra equipment. Most require a separate coffee grinder that’s built specifically for super-fine espresso and a quality tamper as well. For those who are serious about espresso, this isn’t necessarily a downside. Some of our favorite machines, like the Breville Express Impress, have built-in grinders and tamping mechanisms, but they tend to be less accurate than a dedicated grinder. “If you want the highest quality espresso, buying a machine that lets you choose a high-quality grinder instead of forcing you to use the integrated one is the way to go,” Kasperowicz says.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonNearly all of our favorite espresso machines are semi-automatic. This includes our top pick, the Breville Bambino Plus. It’s compact and affordable, while still having a quality steam wand and clear controls and instructions that make it accessible to newcomers. For those looking for a more hands-on machine that allows them to tinker, we recommend the Gaggia Classic Pro. It’s built similarly to a commercial espresso machine and offers a bit more control over the brewing variables while still having an intuitive interface.
Super-AutomaticSerious Eats / Jesse RaubThe next most widespread style of home espresso machine is the super-automatic, which has a fully automated brewing system. “You just drop in whole beans and press one button for the machine to freshly grind, dose, tamp, and brew the coffee,” Kasperowicz says.
The built-in grinder and ease of use do have a trade-off, though. Super-automatic machines offer a lot less control in terms of adjusting things like dose and brew time—factors that have a direct influence on how the finished coffee tastes. “Even if you’re not the kind of person that needs to tinker with your coffee brewing, if you’re going to be making espresso every day, the ability to personalize it a little more is good to have,” Kasperowicz says.
Even though it produces superior espresso, buying a separate grinder and dialing in the right grind coarseness may be too much of an investment for some people. “If you just want the coffee as quickly as possible without disrupting your morning routine, a super-auto can be a great choice,” Kasperowicz explains. “It’s minimal work, you’ll have fresh ground coffee without investing in a separate grinder, and some super-autos do have customization options in terms of grind size.”
As far as which super-automatic machine to buy, we like the Spinn Coffee Maker. It comes with a built-in grinder and has a fully automated, but unique, brewing process that employs an internal centrifuge. The centrifuge acts similarly to a salad spinner by using centripetal force to move the water through the coffee grounds. The espresso it produces is not quite traditional, but it handily beat Keurig and Nespresso pod machines in taste tests.
AutomaticSerious Eats / Nick SimpsonAnyone who has ever stopped into a busy coffee chain has seen an automatic espresso machine in action. This style of machine is similar in design to semi-automatic ones. The major difference is that automatic machines contain a flow meter. A flow meter measures the amount of water that goes into each shot and ensures the same amount of water is used each time—that way the machine automatically stops the shot instead of leaving it up to the user. Many automatic espresso machines even allow the user to customize the exact amount of water used in each shot and program the machine to use that much every time.
“The pros and cons are almost exactly the same as for semi-autos, with just the added pro of the automatic stopping the shot for you,” Kasperowcz says. That extra bit of automation comes at a price, as flow meters tend to be expensive additions and, on the lower end, are often inaccurate.
Among our favorite automatic machines is the Breville Barista Touch Impress. In other reviews, we’ve listed this machine as semi-automatic, but it can utilize both semi-automatic and automatic brewing methods. The Touch Impress comes with a touch screen that walks the user through the entire brewing process, times how long shots take to pull, and tells you whether you need to adjust the grind coarser or finer based on brew time. Through our testing, we found that the flow meter wasn’t the most accurate, but worked well enough, and the touch screen made whipping up a latte straightforward.
ManualSerious Eats / Nick SimpsonThe most affordable and simple style is the manual espresso machine. Instead of having a built-in boiler, they generate the pressure necessary to brew espresso with a lever that’s pulled by the user. The main attraction with lever machines as they are sometimes called, is direct access to every brewing variable and their more hands-on, retro approach to espresso. In fact, the term “pulling a shot” comes from the act of pulling the lever on an automatic machine to make espresso.
They’re not as easy to use as a machine that works at the push of a button, but manual machines have their perks. They range from pricey, high-end devices like La Pavoni to popular, affordable models like the Flair Classic. Many models of manual espresso machines don’t require electricity, which makes them perfect for travel or camping.
“The manual doesn’t really provide any upside over semi-automatic machines in terms of espresso quality,” Kasperowicz explains “It’s not like the learning curve is steep but when you get it right it’s better than using super-automatics.”
Why We’re The Experts* Dylan Ettinger is a Serious Eats contributor who specializes in coffee, spirits, cocktails, and barware. With over a decade of experience in the specialty coffee industry, he has spent the last four years testing and reviewing coffee grinders, espresso machines, pour-over cones, and other home coffee appliances for a variety of publications. * For this piece, he combined his experience in the coffee industry with that of Maciej Kasperowicz, Trade Coffee’s director of coffee and certified Q Grader, to better understand the nuances and differences between different types of home espresso machines.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostYou can only be the objective Resident Taste Test Witch-Slash-Shepherd for so many months before you start casting spells on the testers. Back in February, I wondered aloud on Slack: “What’s going on with cottage cheese lately? Are you all also noticing it’s kinda off now?” Et voila. In April, after months of unserious discussion with coworkers about needing quicker, heartier snack options on site…boom. And finally:
Serious Eats / Tess KomanNefarious!
…Also, I just love cottage cheese! It’s easy, it’s delicious, I can slop it on my toddler’s plate at any time of day with berries or cinnamon and she’s happy—the trifecta! And so I recently pulled together six brands of full-fat cottage cheese you're likely to find in your local supermarket, and forced the SE team to methodically, empirically, scientifically! taste their way through them all in a quest to identify the very best. And we loved every minute of doing it! No, I’m not even kidding. They did! The spell worked, etc., etc. Read on for our favorites.
The Contenders* Breakstone’s Cottage Cheese, 4% Milkfat * Daisy Pure & Natural Cottage Cheese, 4% Milkfat Minimum * Friendship Cottage Cheese, 4% Milkfat, California-Style * Good Culture Cottage Cheese, 4% Milkfat, Organic, Whole Milk Classic * Hood Cottage Cheese, 4% Milkfat, Country-Style * Lactaid Cottage Cheese, 4% Milkfat Min
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostThe CriteriaA good cottage cheese is a little bit sweet, a little more-than-a-bit salty, full of fresh dairy flavor, and leaves you with significant tang, without tasting sour. There should be firm yet creamy curds (not chalky!) and there should be just enough of the creamy liquid surrounding the curds—which is commonly referred to as dressing—to contribute to a pleasant overall sense of creaminess, but not so much that if your bowl were to tip over, you’d have to use any form of absorbent to clean it up.
Above all, a good cottage cheese squeaks. It doesn’t squeak a lot, oh my god. It squeaks gently, nimbly—a sneakers-on-a-floor-mopped-12-hours-ago squeak per bite. Medium-size curds accommodate such a squeak! Small ones melt away; large ones provide too much cushion. Goldilocks squeaks = Goldilocks cheese.
We opted for a 4% milkfat (aka “full fat”) experience across the board so as to allow the full extent of creaminess to come through. I mixed everything once over when it was fresh out of the fridge, plopped large scoops of each one into bowls, and let ‘em rip. Testers sampled each cottage cheese on its own, with no added flavorings and nothing to transfer it into their mouths but spoons.
Serious Eats / Jordon ProvostThe RankingsGood Culture Cottage Cheese, 4% Milkfat, Organic, Whole Milk Classic, 4/5Imagine participating in a cottage cheese taste test. Then imagine volunteering to eat more cottage cheese. It’d have to be really good stuff! This stuff is! And Megan did just that, noting on her test sheet that after the tests were complete, she kept returning to the bowl for more scoops! In fact, nobody had anything bad to say about this sample. (OK, Genevieve had one mildly bad thing to say about it—she found it a “little heavy on the milk,” but that was actually a selling point for other tasters.) Indeed, everyone (Genevieve included) noted the dairy-rich flavor, a slight and pleasant tang, and a good hit of salt with each bite. There was just enough dressing to coat the curds and not a drop more.
Hood Cottage Cheese, 4% Milkfat, Country-Style, 3.4/5Kelli, who, again, for some weird reason, had to eat a lot of cottage cheese for work one time on a different cottage curd-centric undertaking, declared this option to be “sweet, but not too sweet.” Daniel, who ultimately called this his favorite option, wrote that it had a “good creamy texture with soft curds that aren’t too soft.” All good notes on sweetness and creaminess from the group, though Kelli came full-circle to note: “The squeak!” Generally, “the squeak!” is not typically a fun way to describe an auditory or sensory experience you’ve just come through, so do with that what you will.
Daisy Pure & Natural Cottage Cheese, 4% Milkfat Minimum, 3/5I wish I could’ve bottled the gasp I gasped upon opening this container. It was healing to come face-to-face with these curds. It looked like an edible version of a winning game of Tetris, but one where all the pieces were immaculate, snow-white squares. PRISTINE. “It’s creamy but doesn’t taste like old milk, which is nice,” wrote Genevieve. High praise, indeed, from this infrequent cottage cheese eater. Others enjoyed the tang. We did blow by “the squeak!” into “the bounce,” however, and while edible games of yore and bouncy castles might sound appealing to some, others who like less chew whilst eating cheese might prefer a different option on this list.
Lactaid Cottage Cheese, 4% Milkfat Min, 2.9/5“Sweeeeeet,” “surprisingly sweet,” “quite sweet,” “sooo sweet,” and “no tang!” But also: “Good curd-to-liquid ratio,” “pretty nice to eat,” and “the texture is pleasant with curds of differing sizes,” followed by “the dressing is creamy and light!” Everyone claimed after the fact that they just kneeew they had been eating Lactaid. I’m sure!
Friendship Cottage Cheese, 4% Milkfat, California-Style, 2.9/5This option—the one I grew up with!—was lightyears, well, lighter than every other option on the table. It was so aerated there was no question of it being overly dressed, nor was there any kind of heft to it, curd-wise. Like spooning out a baby made by the sweet union of cotton candy and whipped cream cheese partners, really! Our photographer Jordan wrote: “This had my favorite consistency and I was excited to taste it,” but that the cheese ultimately tasted like it would have benefited from culturing a bit longer. If mildness is your thing, this could be the cottage cheese for you.
Breakstone’s Cottage Cheese, 4% Milkfat, 2.1/5My notes upon opening the container read: “It’s giving ricotta at first open. Soft! and! loose!” Breakstone’s did, in fact, taste wildly creamy and pleasantly sweet to most everyone, but it also swam in enough dressing to drown a curd or two or three hundred. “Really thick, not a lot of curds,” one of our testers wrote in a more helpful summation. “There are a few curds suspended in a yogurt-like substance.” A chewable option, this was not!
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostOur Testing MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted completely anonymously and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample 1 first, while taster B will taste sample 6 first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria that vary from sample to sample and also to give an overall score. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation of actual results possible.
https://elvis.meredith.com/?w=NbNyrIKZxEPuerco rojo is one of the most popular tamale fillings throughout Mexico, and it’s easy to see why: The saucy pork and red chile mixture has a bold, fruity, smoky, and spicy flavor that you’ll appreciate at first bite. The red chile filling is so concentrated in flavor that it might at first taste too strong if scooped up and devoured by the spoonful; but when it’s spread into a thin layer and cradled snugly in a rich and pillowy masa (corn dough) to form a tamal, its intense flavor is balanced by the rich corn dough.
I grew up eating tamales rojos de puerco—red pork tamales. For family gatherings and celebrations, my mom and aunts would typically get the masa and fillings ready and invite all the kids to the kitchen table to hop in and help wrap the tamales. They were so good that we’d intentionally make a lot so that there would be leftovers to enjoy for breakfast the next day with family. The tamales rojos de puerco recipe I’m sharing here is based on my family’s version that I grew up eating. It features a thick, aromatic red chile mole (sauce) made with charred tomatoes and tomatillos blended with sesame seeds and peanuts for a rich and creamy sauce that coats tender shredded pork. It’s tucked inside a pleasantly spongy savory masa, shaped, and steamed to make the tamales rojos de puerco.
https://elvis.meredith.com/?w=NbNyrIKZxEI’ve included my recipe for making the masa and shaping the tamales here, but I recommend reading my guides on how to make tamales for more tips for making the masa and shaping the tamales. Here I’ll focus on the red chile pork filling that makes this version of tamales so special.There are two key components to getting the filling right—the pork braise and the red chile sauce, or mole— and I take no shortcuts in making either. This ensures that the filled tamales have pronounced flavor in every bite. Here’s how.
Tips for a Succulent Shredded Pork for Filling TamalesChoose pork shoulder and don’t rush the braise. Pork shoulder is the standard cut cooked in tamales rojos de puerco filling. It's tough and flavorful connective tissue is ideal for cooking slowly at a low temperature until it’s tender enough to pull into spoonable shreds.
Braising the collagen-rich and fatty pork shoulder slowly at a gentle simmer breaks down its connective tissue to ensure the pork shreds easily into bite-sized pieces. This will take a few hours, but don’t rush it. Once finely shredded, the pork can readily soak up the red chile sauce to make a cohesive filling mixture that holds its shape well when spooned down the center of each tamal.
Simmer the pork with aromatics to build a flavorful broth. Simmering the pork with water, onion, carrot, garlic, and bay leaves results in not just tender cooked pork, but a flavorful pork broth as well. Building a flavorful broth is important as the broth is used to thin the red chile sauce. I also recommend using the pork broth to make the tamal dough. You will have more broth than you need for this recipe, but do not under any circumstances throw out the flavorful broth that you just took hours to develop! Any unused broth can be refrigerated or frozen to use for your next batch of tamales or use it in a pork-based soup or stew.
https://elvis.meredith.com/?w=NbNyrIKZxEHow to Make the Thick and Flavorful Red Chile Sauce for Your TamalesUse a combination of chiles. Using a combination of California, guajillo, and chipotle chiles adds layers of smoky and fruity flavor to the sauce.You can read more about each chiles' distinct flavor in our chile guide. Take the time to briefly toast the chiles in the oven until aromatic and just charred to deepen their flavor. Briefly soaking them in water softens the dried skins—a step that ensures the mole will blend until smooth, avoiding any unwanted flaky bits of chile skin.
Char the tomatoes and tomatillos and toast the nuts and seeds for deep flavor. Broiling the tomatoes and tomatillos until well charred builds smoky savory depth of flavor in the final sauce, while roasted peanuts and toasted sesame seeds add a rich and nutty backbone. I recommend buying untoasted sesame seeds and toasting your own in a dry skillet. It takes just a couple minutes to toast. On the other hand, store-bought already roasted peanuts work well here—no need to roast or toast your own.
Blend the sauce until smooth and thick. The red chile sauce in this recipe is concentrated and bursting with flavor. It also has a thick, paste-like texture, which ensures that the filling does not bleed out of the tamales once steamed. To make a sauce that’s thick enough, start by blending just a small amount of the reserved pork broth into the sauce. If the mixture doesn’t initially blend easily, scrape down the sides of the blender jar and try reblending.
Overseason the filling (just a little). Once the shredded pork is coated with the velvety red sauce, go ahead and sneak a taste. The filling may seem overly seasoned and spiced at first bite, but this is actually on purpose. A heavily seasoned filling balances the mild masa that will wrap around the filling. Once you bite into a fresh steamed tamal filled with this red pork, you’ll fully appreciate the filling’s punchy flavor.
For the pork: Generously season pork with salt and pepper. In a large stock pot or large Dutch oven, add the pork, onion, carrots, garlic, and bay leaves. Add water to cover the pork by 3 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to maintain a simmer and cook, covered, adjusting heat as needed and skimming any scum that rises to the surface, until the pork is fork-tender and shreds easily, 2 to 3 hours.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoStrain broth through a fine-mesh strainer set over a large bowl or second pot. Discard aromatics and transfer pork to a cutting board to let cool slightly, about 15 minutes. Reserve the pork broth. Once the pork is cool enough to handle, use 2 forks to finely shred.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoFor the mole rojo: Adjust oven rack to upper position and preheat oven to 350℉ (175℃). Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, bring a quart of water to a boil over high heat.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoLine a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil or parchment paper and spread all the chiles on top in an even layer. Bake until toasted, about 3 minutes, then transfer chiles to the pot of boiling water. Turn off heat and let chiles soak until softened, about 20 minutes, then drain and discard water.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoAdjust the oven to heat the broiler on high. Spread the tomatoes and tomatillos onto the now-empty baking sheet. Broil, turning once, until tomatoes and tomatillos are charred in spots on both sides, 2 to 5 minutes per side.
In a blender, blend the drained chiles, charred tomatoes and tomatillos, peanuts, garlic, black peppercorns, sesame seeds, cumin, and 3/4 cup of the reserved pork broth on high speed into a smooth paste, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoSet a fine-mesh strainer over a large pot or Dutch oven and pour mole through to ensure a smooth mole. Bring the prepared mole to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat, then add shredded pork. Cook while stirring gently to combine until pork and mole are warmed through, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. At this point, the filling can be cooled down then refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 3 months. Alternatively set the filling aside and continue with the tamales below.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoFor the Tamales: In a large bowl, add corn husks and cover with hot water; soak until pliable, 20 to 30 minutes. Make sure they are fully submerged by weighing them down with a heavy plate, if needed.
Meanwhile, in a stand mixer, using the paddle attachment, beat the lard (or other listed fat if using) on medium speed until smooth, light and airy, about 4 minutes (see notes). Stop mixer, use a spatula to scrape down sides of the mixer bowl, and add masa harina, baking powder and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Start mixer on low speed and gradually increase speed to medium and mix until well combined, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoWith the mixer running, slowly drizzle in broth or water, until well combined and dough forms, about 5 minutes. Dough should be moist, smooth, and spongy in texture.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoTo test dough for seasoning, flatten a small piece of dough between your fingers, then microwave on high power until cooked through, about for 15 seconds. Taste and add salt by returning to stand mixer or kneading in by hand, if needed.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoRemove husks from water and pat dry with a clean kitchen towel. Working with 1 husk at a time, lay flat on work surface, cupped side up. Using a small offset spatula, back of spoon, or bench scraper, spread about 2 tablespoons (32g) of the prepared masa into a thin layer across the center of the wrapper, leaving a 1-inch border from the wide open end of the wrapper and from both sides, and leaving bottom 2-inches of the narrow tail end empty. You should have a roughly 4-inch by 4-inch flat square of dough (see notes). If necessary, remove any excess masa using a small offset spatula or butter knife.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoSpread 2 tablespoons of the prepared filling down the center of the dough in a vertical line running the direction of the tapered tail to the open top.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoWith the corn husk’s tapered tail end facing you, fold 1 long side of the corn husk over the filling, stopping and pressing in the middle. Fold the other long side of the husk over the filling, meeting the other folded husk in the middle. Make sure both folded husk edges overlap slightly for a secure closure. Tuck the unfilled tapered tail up to create a secure pouch with 1 open end. Repeat with remaining corn husks, masa, and filling.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoFit a large pot or Dutch oven with a steamer basket, removing feet from the steamer basket if pot is short. Fill pot with water until water just touches bottom of basket and bring to a boil. Gently stand tamales in the basket with open ends facing up and seam sides facing out. Cover and steam, checking water level and adding additional water as needed, until tamales easily separate from husks, 60 to 90 minutes. Rest the steamer basket uncovered and offbeat until the tamales are firm, about 20 minutes. Carefully Transfer to a platter. Open and serve.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoSpecial EquipmentBlender, stock pot or large Dutch oven, steamer basket
NotesThe unused pork broth can be saved and used for making masa for tamales.
This recipe can be doubled to fill 50 tamales.
Masa harina is available in the Latin foods aisle at most grocery stores. I like to use Maseca and Masienda brands. Maseca is more widely available, while Masienda usually needs to be ordered online. I tested this recipe with both brands and found they were interchangeable in the recipe when measured by weight.
It’s easiest to use large corn husks that measure about 8 inches long by 6 inches wide at the open end; if the husks are small, you may need to use two per tamal by shingling them as needed to hold all of the filling. If you do use corn husks that are different from this recommended size, you may need to adjust the amount of masa needed and the dimensions for each tamal. The most important thing for proper shaping is to be sure to spread the masa into a very thin layer.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe unused pork broth can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 3 months.
The filling can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 3 months.
Uncooked assembled tamales can be refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 1 month. When cooking frozen tamales, steam them for an additional 15 minutes.
Cooked tamales can be refrigerated for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 6 months. Refrigerated tamales can be reheated in the corn husks by steaming, microwaving, or grilling. Frozen tamales should not be thawed before steaming.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoEvery year in the darkest days leading up to Christmas, my family gathers together to assemble hundreds of tamales for the winter holiday season. The Mexican tamales I know and love require a lot of time to make, so we save them for celebrations when all hands are on deck to help in the preparation, and we can fully appreciate them together.
There can never be “too many” tamales. They should be eaten in abundance and celebrated for the savory individually wrapped gifts that they are. There’s no denying that making them is a labor of love: The enriched masa (dough) is whipped until light and fluffy, thinly smeared across your preferred wrapper (we use corn husks) then topped with saucy filling, wrapped, and then steamed all together. The result is a tender and pleasantly spongy savory corn dough that complements the filling inside.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoThe recipe I am sharing here is based on the beloved Mexican tamales that my family still unwraps first thing every Christmas morning—ignoring the presents under the tree. But it’s important to recognize that there are many different versions of tamales.
For example, I once ordered a single tamal from a Colombian cafe, anticipating a small snack between meals. I wasn't expecting to receive a heavy paper sack with one big banana leaf pouch filled with carrots, pork belly, and an entire chicken drumstick. It wasn't much of a “light snack,” but it was a delicious learning experience. Even across Mexico, tamales range from spongy to fudgy, square to triangular, and savory to sweet. And while tamales can be found in high-end restaurants, some of the best tamales I’ve had are from vendors in grocery store parking lots slinging foil-wrapped tamales from red coolers.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoThere's no limit to how tamales can be enjoyed or what you can find stuffed into a tamal. Whether they're filled with beans, squash flowers, or fish, I make it a point to try all variations I come across, and I encourage you to do the same. I’ve developed recipes for my preferred tamal fillings of puerco rojo, pollo con salsa verde, and birria that are great filling options with this tamal recipe. But before you even get to the filling, a well made masa para tamales is a must. Here are the steps to making a great dough for tamales and how to assemble special occasion–worthy tamales at home.
What Is Masa?Masa para tamales (dough for tamales) is a blend of nixtamalized corn—fresh or dried—with lots of fat for richness, baking powder to leaven and lighten the dough, salt for seasoning, and flavorful broth to bind it all together and hydrate the dough. In terms of texture, a well made masa para tamales should be soft and pliable enough to spread in a thin layer for wrapping. And for truly great tamales, rather than just relying on the fillings for flavor, the dough must be rich and well seasoned from the added fat, liquid, and salt.
Around the winter holidays, I’ll often find large bags of freshly prepared masa para tamales at my local Mexican grocery stores in California. The doughs are often in varied vibrant colors thanks to fruits or vegetables that have been blended into them. If you can find freshly made store-bought masa that’s made from fresh nixtamalized maiz, it’s a great option to start this recipe with. The texture and flavor of masa para tamales made from fresh nixtamalized corn is incomparable. I encourage you to at some point seek it out and try this shaping technique and recipe with it. Or try nixtamalization at home with Daniel Gritzer’s technique here.
While freshly made nixtamalized corn will produce the most corn-forward masa, it’s a big project to make and can be challenging to source. Instead I call for starting with masa harina, dried nixtamalized corn flour, in this recipe. It’s easily accessible and shelf-stable and, when properly whipped up, will create a dough that is pliable and easy to shape into tamales and still have masa para tamales’ signature savory and complex corn appeal.
Making the MasaGreat masa para tamales starts with fat—and lots of it. Tamal dough should be rich and supple. This is not only for flavor, but for ease of shaping and proper texture. The fat in the masa is typically lard, but experimenting with different fats is a fun way to add flavor to the masa. Asiento (the infused fat produced during the chicharrón- or carnitas-making process) or duck fat are flavorful options to substitute for lard in tamal dough. Whatever saturated fat you choose for your dough, the fat first needs to be beaten in a stand mixer until light and fluffy. Incorporating air into the fat at this stage prevents the masa from becoming heavy and dense once cooked. This process works best with softened room temperature fat, but if the fat is too cold and firm and starts riding around the stand mixer instead of spreading evenly, work the fat with your hands to soften it up a bit before trying again. It can also be done entirely by hand, but it takes longer and requires a couple of ice cubes to keep the fat from melting.
In addition to the added fat, a leavener must be added to keep the dough light and fluffy. Traditionally, masa was leavened using the water from boiled tomatillo husks and tequesquite, a mineral containing sodium carbonate. Today, baking powder is used as a substitute to leaven the dough.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoThe next step is to add the masa harina to the fat in small increments. Once the masa is fully incorporated with the fat, it’s hydrated by gradually drizzling in small amounts of broth. I strongly encourage you to use a flavorful homemade broth here to build flavor into the tamal dough. It’s typical for the broth used in the tamal dough to be the reserved cooking liquid from preparing the accompanying tamal filling.
After you add the broth, the finished masa para tamales should feel airy and moist but not sticky or crumbly. If it’s too sticky, add a tablespoon of masa harina at a time until you reach the desired texture. If it’s too crumbly, add a tablespoon of water or broth at a time. Before adding any salt to the dough, cook a small amount of masa over a preheated skillet or in the microwave, then taste and season accordingly. The amount of salt it’ll need depends on how salty the added broth is.
A stand mixer is preferable to mixing by hand because it’s hands off and allows you to focus your attention on preparing the filling. Tightly wrap your masa with plastic in a large bowl until ready to use to prevent it from drying out.
Selecting Wrappers for the TamalesTamales can be wrapped with corn leaves, banana leaves, leafy greens, reed leaves, chaya leaves, Swiss chard leaves, or dried corn husks. Fresh leaves impart a grassy flavor to the tamal. This recipe uses dried corn husks, which I like because they impart a subtle corn flavor and are easier to find in Mexican food markets. They need to be soaked and dried at least 20 minutes before you begin wrapping. Use the smooth side of the husk as the interior, as the rough texture of the outside can make the masa stick. Fully unfold the wrapper before adding the masa to make sure all the ridges are filled.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoIt’s easiest to use large corn husks that measure about eight inches long by six inches wide at the open end; if the husks are smaller, you may need to use two per tamale by shingling them to hold all of the filling. If you do use corn husks that are different from this recommended size, you may need to adjust the amount of masa and the dimensions for each tamal. The most important part with shaping is that the masa is spread into a very thin layer.
Assembling the TamalesAssembling tamales is a lot of work—there’s no getting around it. It’s why my family waits to make tamales until we are all together, to help divide the labor. It takes finesse to make a tamal that has a thin outer masa shell that encapsulates the filling and stays intact once steamed and peeled open. While my detailed instructions are a great starting point, this is an experience that is best learned hands-on. The more you make, the better and faster you will be with the process of shaping tamales. Dive right into the assembly. It may be a sticky mess at first, but you will improve with each tamal, I promise.
Start by spreading a thin layer of masa across the wide end of the wrapper. You can use your preferred spreading tool here—think small offset spatula, the back of a spoon, a bench scraper, or a plastic bag, or even just wet fingers to pat the dough into place. I’ve given dimension suggestions for the preferred size of the corn husk wrappers for this recipe, with a corresponding amount of masa to properly fill them. But the amount of masa used per tamal will depend on the size of your wrapper, and you may need to adjust accordingly.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen shaping the dough, it’s important to leave a 1-inch border around the sides and top of the wrapper. This allows headspace for the tamal to puff up and grow as it cooks. The narrow tail end of the corn husk should never be filled. If any masa creeps towards the edges, simply swipe it clean with your finger and add it back to the masa pile. The layer of masa should be very thin, but don’t worry—as it steams it will rise and expand.
Once the filling is laid out down the length of the masa, it’s time to wrap. While I’ve seen recipes that roll the tamal closed, I find it is easiest and most secure to fold one side over the masa and filling and then fold the second side over, meeting the first folded side in the center. It’s OK if there’s a thin layer of masa in between the husk: Think of it as protective edible glue that ensures the filling stays put while steaming.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFinally, tuck the tail end of the wrapper at least a quarter of the way up the tamal on the same side as the previous folds. At this step, the tamales can be tied closed with strips of corn husk if desired, but it isn’t necessary. A properly folded tamal will stay sealed once it’s standing up and cooking in the steamer basket.
Cooking the TamalesMexican tamales are traditionally cooked in large metal steamers with enough space to fit many dozens of tamales and that hold plenty of water for the extended cook time . For this scaled-down home version, a large stock pot or Dutch oven with a basic steamer basket will work best for a batch of 25 tamales.
The most efficient way to steam tamales is to lean them on each other and keep them as upright as possible. This maximizes the space in the steamer and also prevents the filling from oozing out as it cooks. If your steamer isn’t airtight, seal the edges of the lid with aluminum foil. You’ll want to keep a pot of boiling water handy and keep a watchful eye on the tamales as they steam. If the pot runs dry, add more water as needed for proper steaming.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoThe tamales are ready when the wrapper peels cleanly from the masa. It’s tempting to peel back the wrapper and dive in immediately, but don’t! They need at least 20 minutes resting off the heat to firm up so they will hold their shape once open. Only then are they ready to unwrap. Toppings aren’t required, but tamales can be enjoyed with queso, crema, or salsa. If you’re a hot sauce fan like my dad, you can even slather them in Tapatio.
This recipe makes an accessible 25 tamales that someone would be able to assemble all on their own, but the recipe also can easily be doubled, and tamales freeze and reheat very well. I suggest you invite your favorite kitchen helpers over, turn on some good music, and get assembling. These tamales are worth the celebration.
In a large bowl, add corn husks and cover with hot water; soak until pliable, 20 to 30 minutes. Make sure they are fully submerged by weighing them down with a heavy plate, if needed.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoMeanwhile, in a stand mixer, using the paddle attachment, beat the lard (or other listed fat if using) on medium speed until smooth, light and airy, about 4 minutes. (See notes.)
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoStop mixer, use a spatula to scrape down sides of mixer bowl, and add masa harina and baking powder. Start mixer and gradually increase speed to medium and mix until well combined, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoWith mixer running, slowly drizzle in broth or water, until well combined and dough forms, about 5 minutes. Dough should be moist, smooth, and spongy in texture.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoTo test dough for seasoning, flatten a small piece of dough between your fingers, then microwave on high power until cooked through, about for 15 seconds. Taste and add salt by returning to stand mixer or kneading in by hand, if needed.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoRemove husks from water and pat dry with a clean kitchen towel. Working with 1 husk at a time, lay flat on work surface, cupped side up. Using a small offset spatula, back of spoon, or bench scraper, spread about 2 tablespoons (32g) of the prepared masa into a thin layer across the center of the wrapper, leaving a 1-inch border from the wide open end of the wrapper and from both sides, and leaving the bottom 2-inches of the narrow tail end empty. You should have a roughly 4-inch by 4-inch flat square of dough (see notes). If necessary, remove any excess masa using a small offset spatula or butter knife.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSpread 2 tablespoons of your preferred filling down the center of the dough in a vertical line running the direction of the tapered tail to the open top.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoWith the corn husk’s tapered tail end facing you, fold 1 long side of the corn husk over the filling, stopping and pressing in the middle. Fold the other long side of the husk over the filling, meeting the other folded husk in the middle. Make sure both folded husk edges overlap slightly for a secure closure. Tuck the unfilled tapered tail up to create a secure pouch with 1 open end. Repeat with remaining corn husks, masa, and filling.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFit large pot or Dutch oven with steamer basket, removing feet from steamer basket if pot is short. Fill pot with water until it just touches bottom of basket and bring to a boil. Gently stand tamales in the basket with open ends facing up and seam sides facing out. Cover and steam, checking water level and adding additional water as needed, until tamales easily separate from husks, 60 to 90 minutes. Rest in the steamer basket, uncovered and off heat until fully firm, 20 minutes. Transfer to a platter, carefully open and serve.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSpecial EquipmentStand mixer with paddle attachment, kitchen scale, steamer basket, large pot or large Dutch oven
NotesMasa harina is available in the Latin foods aisle at most grocery stores. I like to use Maseca and Masienda brands. Maseca is more widely available, while Masienda usually needs to be ordered online. I tested this recipe with both brands and found they were interchangeable in the recipe when measured by weight.
It’s easiest to use large corn husks that measure about 8 inches long by 6 inches wide at the open end; if the husks are small, you may need to use two per tamal by shingling them as needed to hold all of the filling. If you do use corn husks that are different from this recommended size, you may need to adjust the amount of masa needed and the dimensions for each tamal. The most important thing for proper shaping is to be sure to spread the masa into a very thin layer.
Make-Ahead and StorageUncooked assembled tamales can be refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 1 month. When cooking frozen tamales, steam them for an additional 15 minutes.
Cooked tamales can be refrigerated for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 6 months. Refrigerated tamales can be reheated in the corn husks by steaming, microwaving, or grilling. Frozen tamales should not be thawed before steaming.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoFor holidays and celebrations, it’s routine for my family to gather together to make various types of tamal, including tamales de pollo con salsa verde. The version of tamales with a chicken and green salsa filling that I grew up eating was made with shredded chicken tossed in a refreshing green salsa loaded with tomatillos, garlic, and fresh cilantro. My recipe here is inspired by my family’s version, but I’ve added a few of my own twists—crisped chicken skin is finely chopped and folded into the filling for a rich chicken flavor and textural contrast, plus ground coriander is added to enhance the salsa verde. When the bright, sharp, and herbaceous green chicken filling is spread into a thin layer over pillowy masa, and enclosed to form a tamal, the filling’s sharp flavor pairs perfectly with the rich corn dough.
There’s no working around it, tamales are a labor of love, but they are well worth it, and I’ve written a helpful guide on how to make tamales that I encourage you to read for tips on making the masa and shaping the tamales. I’ve also included the steps for making the masa and shaping the tamales below, but here are a few tips for making the chicken and green salsa filling.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoTips for Memorable Tamales de Pollo con Salsa VerdeTake the time to add crisped chicken skin to the filling. Crisped chicken skin is not typically used in tamales de pollo con salsa verde filling, but I was inspired to add the crisped skin after trying a version of tamales with chicharrónes guisados (stewed fried pork rinds) from my favorite tamal vendor at my local gas station. In that pork version, I loved the contrasting textures and rich flavor the crisped skin added to this tamal filling, and I wanted to use this technique with chicken. I In my chicken tamales filling, the crisped skin softens slightly when stirred into the saucy filling, but it still adds a welcome chewy contrast to the tender shredded chicken, and incredible flavor. (I mean, what’s more delicious than fried chicken skin?!) It’s important to render the chicken skin slowly, and stir frequently to avoid the skin sticking to the bottom of the pot, and to make sure it renders its fat and crisps evenly.
Once rendered and strained, I like to save the chicken fat, or as I call it, “liquid gold.” Go ahead and even toss a few tablespoons of the rendered fat with the tomatillo mixture before charring under the broiler.
Char the fresh vegetables and add ground cilantro to the salsa verde. Smoky, spicy, sweet, bright, and complex, this salsa verde rules them all. If there were a Mexican restaurant on my desert island, this is the salsa I’d want. Two key features set this salsa verde apart from most: The first is taking the time to char the tomatillos, tomato (added for sweet fruity balance to the tomatillos), and serranos. It’s important to get them really deeply charred. Flecks of black, burnt tomatillo skin are delicious in the finished salsa. As the vegetables cook down under the broiler, they'll also start to release liquid that will caramelize and turn sticky, like honey. Make sure to scrape those delicious juices into the blender jar with the other salsa ingredients.
The second distinction is enhancing the salsa with ground coriander in addition to the raw cilantro leaves and stems. Ground coriander adds a bold, concentrated layer of cilantro flavor to the salsa. The final salsa is sharp and acidic, and once tossed with the chicken mixture, it pairs perfectly with the rich sweet corn dough. The result is tamales that may even better be than the tamales de pollo con salsa verde I grew up eating—just don’t tell my mom.
For the chicken, broth, and chicharrónes: Generously season the chicken with salt and pepper. In a large stock pot or large Dutch oven, add the chicken, onion, carrot, garlic, and bay leaf. Add water until the mixture is submerged by 3 inches. Bring to a simmer and cook until chicken is fork-tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken to a cutting board and let cool slightly, about 15 minutes.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoOnce chicken is cool enough to handle, remove and discard the bones, then shred the chicken into bite-size pieces and transfer to a large bowl. Reserve the meat and the broth separately.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoMeanwhile, cut the reserved chicken skin into 1/2 inch pieces. Transfer the cut skin to a medium saucepan, cover with water until just submerged, and bring to a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally, over medium-high heat. Continue to cook, lowering heat as needed to maintain a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally until the skin is crisp and golden, 40 to 60 minutes. When crisping the chicken skin, monitor the heat level closely to maintain a gentle simmer to avoid hot fat splatter and to ensure even browning of the skin. Using a spider skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer the crisped chicken skin to a paper towel–lined plate. Season lightly with salt, add to the bowl with the meat, and gently toss to combine, breaking up any pieces of chicharrón that have clumped together. Cool the rendered chicken fat and reserve.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoFor sauce: Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and preheat the oven broiler. In a bowl, toss serranos, tomato, and tomatillos in 2 tablespoons of the reserved rendered chicken fat. Transfer to an aluminum foil–lined baking sheet. Broil until well charred, flipping the vegetables halfway through, about 5 minutes total.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoIn a blender jar, add the charred vegetables, fresh cilantro, garlic, black peppercorns, oregano, coriander, cumin, and 1/2 cup of the reserved chicken broth. Season with salt to taste.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoPour the blended sauce over the chicken mixture and toss to thoroughly combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. At this point, the filling can be cooled down then refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 3 months. Alternatively set the filling aside and continue with the tamales below.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoFor the tamales: In a large bowl, add corn husks and cover with hot water; soak until pliable, 20 to 30 minutes. Make sure they are fully submerged by weighing them down with a heavy plate, if needed.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoMeanwhile, in a stand mixer, using the paddle attachment, beat the lard (or other listed fat if using) on medium speed until smooth, light and airy, about 4 minutes (see notes). Stop mixer, use a spatula to scrape down sides of the mixer bowl, and add masa harina and baking powder. Start mixer on low speed and gradually increase speed to medium and mix until well combined, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoWith the mixer running, slowly drizzle in broth or water, until well combined and dough forms, about 5 minutes. Dough should be moist , smooth, and spongy in texture.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoTo test dough for seasoning, flatten a small piece of dough between your fingers, then microwave on high power until cooked through, about for 15 seconds. Taste and add salt by returning to stand mixer or kneading in by hand, if needed.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoRemove husks from water and pat dry with a clean kitchen towel. Working with 1 husk at a time, lay flat on work surface, cupped side up. Using a small offset spatula, back of spoon, or bench scraper, spread about 2 tablespoons (32g) of the prepared masa into a thin layer across the center of the wrapper, leaving a 1-inch border from the wide open end of the wrapper and from both sides, and leaving bottom 2-inches of the narrow tail end empty. You should have a roughly 4-inch by 4-inch flat square of dough (see notes). If necessary, remove any excess masa using a small offset spatula or butter knife.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoSpread 2 tablespoons of the prepared filling down the center of the dough in a vertical line running the direction of the tapered tail to the open top.
With the corn husk’s tapered tail end facing you, fold 1 long side of the corn husk over the filling, stopping and pressing in the middle. Fold the other long side of the husk over the filling, meeting the other folded husk in the middle. Make sure both folded husk edges overlap slightly for a secure closure. Tuck the unfilled tapered tail up to create a secure pouch with 1 open end. Repeat with remaining corn husks, masa, and filling.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoFit a large pot or Dutch oven with a steamer basket, removing feet from the steamer basket if pot is short. Fill pot with water until water just touches bottom of basket and bring to a boil. Gently stand tamales in the basket with open ends facing up and seam sides facing out. Cover and steam, checking water level and adding additional water as needed, until tamales easily separate from husks, 60 to 90 minutes. Rest the tamales in the steamer basket, uncovered and off heat, until firm, about 20 minutes.Carefully Transfer to a platter. Open and serve.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoSpecial EquipmentBlender, stock pot or large Dutch oven, steamer basket
NotesThe unused chicken broth can be saved and used for making masa for tamales.
For easier cutting, the chicken skin can be placed on a plate and frozen until firm, about 15 minutes before slicing.
When crisping the chicken skin, monitor the heat level closely to maintain a gentle simmer to avoid hot fat splatter and to ensure even browning of the skin.
This recipe can be doubled to fill 50 tamales.
Masa harina is available in the Latin foods aisle at most grocery stores. I like to use Maseca and Masienda brands. Maseca is more widely available, while Masienda usually needs to be ordered online. I tested this recipe with both brands and found they were interchangeable in the recipe when measured by weight.
It’s easiest to use large corn husks that measure about 8 inches long by 6 inches wide at the open end; if the husks are small, you may need to use two per tamal by shingling them as needed to hold all of the filling. If you do use corn husks that are different from this recommended size, you may need to adjust the amount of masa needed and the dimensions for each tamal. The most important thing for proper shaping is to be sure to spread the masa into a very thin layer.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe filling can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 3 months.
The rendered chicken fat from making the chicharrónes can be cooled and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks or frozen for up to 3 months.
Any unused chicken broth can be refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 3 months.
The filling can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 3 months.Uncooked assembled tamales can be refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 1 month. When cooking frozen tamales, steam them for an additional 15 minutes.
Cooked tamales can be refrigerated for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 6 months. Refrigerated tamales can be reheated in the corn husks by steaming, microwaving, or grilling. Frozen tamales should not be thawed before steaming.
Serious Eats / Kristin KempaOne of the most alluring qualities of wine is its ability to age. Even though it’s in a sealed bottle, it develops flavor and becomes more complex over time—that is if it’s stored correctly. Proper storage can also help prevent the tragedy of saving a bottle for a special occasion only to discover it's muted or corked when you finally pop it open.
Most advice for storing wine is simple: keep bottles on their side in a cool, dark place. Sure, you could just stick them in your basement and hope for the best. But if you’re looking to invest more in your wine collection or want to take better care of your current stock, a wine fridge ensures properly stored vino. But what makes a good one? To find out, we chatted with a slew of experts: Scott Carney, a master sommelier and dean of Wine Studies at the Institute of Culinary Education; Aubrey Bailey, a sommelier at the French Laundry in Yountville, California; Daniel de la Nuez of Forthave Spirits; and Cesar Vega ofLes Vins de Barbichette, a natural wine producer. We've rounded up their recommendations, as well as a staff-favorite fridge, with options for newbies and seasoned cellarers alike.
The Winners, at a Glance This wine fridge holds 32 bottles, a Goldilocks number that makes it an excellent pick for most anyone. We appreciate its dual-zone design, which allows you to store reds or whites at different temperatures.
The Rocco wine fridge is cold, quiet, and cool, with an eye-catching mid-century modern aesthetic. Senior commerce editor Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm has had hers for about five months; she loves its easy-to-use app, dual temperature zones, and that the fridge doubles as a bar cart.
The EuroCave holds 146 bottles—which is a lot for a budding wine collector, but a boon for a seasoned cellarer in need of a good amount of storage space. This fancy fridge even has an alarm system that notifies you if temperatures enter the danger zone.
This petite wine fridge can hold up to eight bottles and features an easy-to-read LED temperature display. Because of its compact size (and low price tag), it’s a great model for those new to wine collecting or with limited space.
The Ivation fits 12 bottles and allows you to store them between 41-64°F. This versatility is a boon when you’re starting out cellaring wine since you can store reds, whites, and roses in one unit.
Things to ConsiderTemperature Matters (Or, What is Cellaring Anyway?) The ideal temperature for storing wine is between 55-57ºF, which helps keep maderization (or off-flavors) at bay.Serious Eats / Adam RothbarthWine cellaring involves the practice of aging bottles in a controlled environment for a select period to improve the quality. “If your interest in wine is driven by the marvel of the ‘life’ of a wine and the fascinating stages of that life, from youth to adolescence to adulthood—then a respect for its living quarters is essential,” says Carney.
When it comes to storing wine, heat is the enemy. Think about the transformative powers of heat during cooking—a ripe strawberry has much lighter and brighter flavors than strawberry jam, which is rich and fudgy. Heat can create a similar change in wine. During storage, hot temperatures can cook wine, transforming its fresh fruit profile into a murky, raisin-y mess. While this process, known as maderization, is intentional when making Madeira (a fortified wine known for its nutty and caramelized flavors), when this happens accidentally, it’s considered a flaw.
The ideal temperature for storing wine is between 55-57ºF. This range is known as cellar temperature—it’s much warmer than the average household fridge but cool enough to prevent maderization. Prior to modern heating and cooling technology, wine (and other perishables, including root vegetables) were stored in cellars. Because they’re underground, cellars are cool and aren’t as susceptible to temperature changes as other rooms in the house.
But nowadays, while you can resort to sticking a few bottles in a cool area of your house, there’s also the option to invest in a wine fridge, which gives you more control over temperature. “The variables that can unduly accelerate the lifespan of a wine—temperature, humidity, light, and vibration—are fairly well controlled by a wine fridge,” says Carney. Some of our favorite wine fridges, like the 32-bottle capacity Wine Enthusiast Dual Zone MAX Compressor Wine Cooler, even have dual temperature zones, meaning you can have two racks storing wine at different temperatures—fancy!
Single Vs. Dual Zone Wine Fridges As we mentioned above, some wine fridges give you the option to have two temperature zones; this feature is ideal if you store a variety of bottles. Conversely, single-zone models, as their name suggests, offer one zone of temperature control. That all being said, while wines are best cellared at different temperatures, we don’t think it’s a dealbreaker to store a few reds and whites together at 57°F.
Wine Fridges Are Great for Long-Term Storage Since wine fridges hold wine in a dark, temperature-controlled setting, this makes them ideal for long-term wine storage. Barring an electrical outage, this consistency helps ensure a bottle of wine stays in pristine condition, even if you’re cellaring it for years. The best wine fridges for this should have tinted doors and horizontal shelves, which protect the wine from light strikes and prevents the cork from drying out, which can lead to oxidation.
That said, some wines aren’t meant to be stored for a long time. “Some wines are for drinking now, others are for aging,” says de Nuez. “Primary fruit tends to fall away as the wine ages.” Whites, rosés, and some natural wines are created to showcase delicate fruit and light floral flavors. These bottles are best consumed fresh and young. It’s perfectly fine to store them for a few weeks or even months, but if they’re stored for too long, the subtle notes will dull over time. If a wine has a synthetic cork or a crown cap, that’s a good sign that it was intended for immediate consumption.
Consider How Much Wine You Want to Store—and Your Space A wine fridge that fits your space nicely is a boon.Serious Eats / Adam Rothbarth“For commercial purposes, it is not unusual for a temperature-controlled wine cellar to be custom-built,” says Carney. “[They’re] often built to be displayed in the restaurant to demonstrate to their guests that when they shell out $800 for a bottle of wine, they can be assured that it has been perfectly cared for.”
While dreamy, most folks aren’t looking to create a literal wine cave in their basement.
Instead, most at-home wine fridges are more approachable, with capacities ranging from as low as four bottles to larger ones, like the Eurocave, that carry upwards of 146. Which size you choose depends on how much wine you want to have, though we recommend starting small for those new to cellaring. In addition to considering your bottle collection, it’s good to keep in mind where you want to put the fridge since these things can be big (and sometimes loud).
Special Features Are Fun, but Not EssentialOnce you settle on a wine fridge that can adequately store your bottles, then you can look into ones with upgrades to make your experience even better. Some models come equipped with touchscreens that allow you to customize settings and easily maneuverable shelves that’ll take care not to scuff labels. The Rocco Super Smart Fridge boasts the fun feature of being able to take inventory from the comfort of your phone—great if you realize you’re out of rosé and have a party coming up (only slightly kidding).
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Wine FridgeWhen choosing the best wine fridge, there is no one-size-fits-all approach. Consider if you want to store wines at different temperatures (in which case, a dual-zone option is in order), how much wine you plan on cellaring, and if the fridge is easy to fill and unload bottles from. Price is another factor, and if you’re hesitant to shell out the big bucks, we do have options that are under $200. Bonus smart features like inventory management via an app can be fun additions, though they’re not required.
Our Favorite, Expert-Recommended Wine Fridges What we liked: Sommeliers and wine experts rave about Wine Enthusiast's collection of fridges. Carney says The Institute of Culinary Education relies on the brand for its wine program, which is high praise indeed. This model holds up to 32 bottles, making it suitable for industry pros or folks just getting into cellaring. Its dual-zone design allows you to customize two separate temperature areas between 41-64°F. It’s also quiet, energy-efficient, and releases minimal vibration, which can speed up the aging process and taint your sips. Plus, this wine fridge doesn’t take up too much space, since it only requires four inches on the back and top for proper air circulation and cooling performance.
What we didn’t like: As a free-standing model, this wine fridge may not fit in a specific space in your home, especially if you are looking for one to nestle into a particular spot.
Key Specs Capacity: 32 bottles * Dimensions: 33.4 x 19.5 x 16.9 inches * Warranty:* 1 year parts and labor; 3 years sealed system
Wine EnthusiastWhat we liked: The Rocco fridge boasts a modern design and has a stylish ribbed glass panel on the door. It comes in a few colors, too: chic white, mustard yellow, and glossy graphite. “It has dual temperature zones and a mid-century vibe (very aesthetic!), and the racks are spacious, with horizontal bars that keep bottles in place,” Riddley says. “Its top doubles as a bar cart, and it’s relatively quiet, too.” The smart features allow you to toggle between a temperature range of 37-64º F, and the app (theoretically) lets you see what’s inside your fridge (call it an “inventory management system” to make it sound professional).
What we didn’t like: This model is quite pricey, and if you’re simply looking for a place to keep wine at appropriate temperatures, you might find the smart features excessive. The inventory management system could be better at recognizing brands.
Key Specs Capacity: 27 bottles * Dimensions: 34.5 x 24 x 16 inches * Warranty:* 10 years; 30-day risk-free trial
RoccoWhat we liked: The Eurocave carries 146 bottles making it a great pick for industry professionals who need to store cases of wine. It has touchscreen control panels that allow you to toggle the temperature between 43-64°F. Plus, it has an alarm feature that notifies you of important changes like humidity levels so you can protect your bulk purchases.
What we didn’t like: This fridge emits a low-pitched hum, which can be annoying. It's also quite an investment in terms of price.
Key Specs Capacity: 146 bottles * Dimensions: 71.85 x 26.8 x 28.3 inches * Warranty:* 1 year parts and labor, 5 years sealed system (parts only)
Wine EnthusiastWhat we liked: This petite, affordable fridge is great for folks looking to dip their toes into wine cellaring. Its adjustable shelves can hold up to eight bottles, and the compact fridge fits perfectly on a counter or bar cart. Plus, its thermoelectric cooling system makes this model quieter and more energy efficient.
What we didn’t like: This is a single temperature zone fridge—that said, we don’t necessarily think this is a con given the price tag.
Key Specs Capacity: 8 bottles * Dimensions: 10.5 x 17.5 x 17.25 inches * Warranty:* 3 years
AmazonWhat we liked: This model is a great starter appliance for learning how to care for wine. It can hold up to 12 bottles and has dual-zone features, which is pretty sweet for a $200 pick. Plus, its double-paned glass door helps maintain an optimal climate, ensuring that your investments remain aromatic and complex.
What we didn’t like: This wine fridge does run a bit loud, and the warranty is shorter than others.
Key Specs Capacity: 12 bottles * Dimensions: 34.4 x 23.9 x 26.4 inches * Warranty:* 1 year
IvationFAQsWhat is the ideal long-term storage for wine?The time required to preserve wine depends on several factors, such as the type and flavor profile you wish to achieve. Wine fridges can assist you in monitoring your bottles to safeguard them from potential threats such as temperature, humidity, light, vibrations, and improper positioning. If you plan to age your bottles, preserving them in a fridge for several years is possible, depending on your goals. Regardless of whether you intend to age your investments for five years or twenty, maintaining them in an optimal environment will help extend their lifespan and maintain their quality.
Do you have to store different wines differently?Different types of wine require specific storage temperatures. For example, Carney says most reds should be stored at 60°F, while most whites should be kept at 55°F. If you are unsure about the temperature required for a particular wine, you can check the label on the bottle for further instructions. Dual-zone fridges are available to help you store wines in varying environments. By preserving bottles in the appropriate climate, you set yourself up to enjoy aromatic and delicious pours.
How long does a wine fridge last?A wine fridge's durability depends on how it is built and maintained. We recommend purchasing a model with a quality warranty policy to ensure your investment is protected. Our research shows that most coverages last between three and 10 years
Does the warranty policy matter for a wine fridge? Depending on the model you choose, wine fridges can be costly. Like all appliances, they’re prone to mishaps, so it makes sense to invest in one with a good warranty. When researching the winners, the best coverages ranged from three years up to ten.
Why We’re the Experts* Ashia Aubourg is a freelance writer who has worked in kitchens (and on farms). * For this story, she spoke to Aubrey Bailey (the first female sommelier at the French Laundry and owner of Cadet and Chispa) and Scott Carney (master sommelier, and dean of Wine Studies at the Institute of Culinary Education). * Madeline Muzzi is a certified sommelier who has written extensively for Serious Eats. * For this piece, Madeline interviewed Daniel de la Nuez of Forthave Spirits and Cesar Vega of Les Vins de Barbichette.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI have a love-hate relationship with iced coffee. No, that's not quite right, it's not love-hate, it's love-meh. As a staunch drinker of black coffee, I have long known, deep in my bones, that the iced coffee I crave as soon as the hot weather rolls around is not as delicious as the hot coffee I drink the rest of the year. In recent years I have accepted this fully, so that it's now common to find me on a steamy August morning sweating through an even more steamy cup of black coffee. I'll do anything for flavor.
I'm excited for all my future summers, though, because I'm now an avowed Mazagran coffee drinker, and while I can't claim that it's served "black" due to the fact that it's coffee mixed with lemon juice and sugar, it is an iced coffee so refreshing, so undeniably delicious that I'd be willing to drink it every single warm day of the year, and very possibly all the cold ones too. It's that good.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMy journey to this phase of my iced-coffee drinking life has been a long one. For years I sought great iced coffee on its own terms, jumping from technique to technique as I grew disillusioned with each like a polar bear leaping to ever-shrinking ice floes. About twelve years ago I was in the phase in which I tried to convince myself cold brew had solved all my problems. But slowly, as I spent more time with cold brew (including running a series of enlightening taste tests for Serious Eats), I admitted to myself that it wasn't the best way to feature cold coffee in an unsweetened, un-milked form.
After that I shifted to "Japanese-style" iced coffee, in which coffee is brewed hot directly onto ice, which was the method that won in my tastings when served black. But even then, I had to face a personal truth—I still preferred my coffee hot. I've always loved iced coffee with lots of milk, but that's a much heavier drink than I want for caffeine delivery most days, so it's not an option I would make a habit.
Now, with Mazagran, I have icy cold, bright, and refreshing coffee to look forward to day after day. I hope you will too.
What Is Mazagran Coffee?While different variations of Mazagran iced coffee can be found around the world, in its most essential form it is simply a coffee-lemonade hybrid. Some recipes spike it with rum or another spirit, but plenty of others leave the alcohol out.
The story of Mazagran's creation is often told something like this: It was the "world's first iced coffee," created in 1840 by vastly outnumbered French colonial troops while successfully defending the Mazagran fort in the town of Mostaganem during the French conquest of Algeria. According to the tale, as supplies dwindled and the embattled French troops fought tooth and nail to survive, they had to quit their habit of drinking coffee with liquor or milk or whatever they were using and dilute it with sweetened cold water instead. The soldiers then took this practice back to France, where it became a popular drink served in a tall, narrow porcelain cup. From there, it spread to other countries like Portugal.
At some point—precisely when and where is unclear—lemon became a popular addition, possibly first as wedges or rinds as a flavorful garnish, but then in the form of sweetened lemon juice. Thus the drink ended up in coffee-spiked lemonade territory.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIt's impossible to know just how much truth lies in this origin story for Mazagran, though it smacks of the kind of national myth-building that often accompanies military conquests. Seen through this lense, the Mazagran coffee story serves to romanticize France's invasion of Algeria by celebrating the idea of French ingenuity and ultimate success in the face of unlikely odds. It's a David-versus-Goliath narrative that casts the French as the victorious underdogs, when in reality they were the invading superpower.
It's also hard to believe that it required this particular moment in military history for anyone to figure out that diluting coffee with water and drinking it cold might be enjoyable. I know firsthand that my daily mug of coffee frequently drops to room temperature whenever I'm too busy to drink it quickly, and I can only assume this would have happened to coffee drinkers around the world in the 19th century as well. Add to that the fact that room temperature was likely how these French soldiers would have been drinking their diluted coffee—not iced, as the "world's first iced coffee" moniker implies—given that this story occurs in a time when ice for beverages was a luxury available to few, in particular during a siege in a famously hot land.
How to Make Great Mazagran Iced CoffeeI may be a skeptic about how Mazagran coffee came into being, and I'm certainly dubious of the motivation of its story's tellers, but one thing I do not doubt is how good Mazagran coffee is. When working on this recipe, I spoke to my former Serious Eats colleague and coffee expert Jesse Raub to get his take on Mazagran along with any tips he could share on preparing an excellent version of it. His advice set me on the right path.
"People don't always think of these coffee drinks correctly," he told me. "You can dump all the ingredients together, but it may not come out balanced and with the flavor profile you're trying to hit." Instead of trying to land on the one perfect recipe, Jesse advised me to think of the drink more like making a vinaigrette: Start with the flavorful base, get that flavor balanced, then dilute it.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn vinaigrette's case, that would mean starting with the vinegar or citrus juice, seasoning it with salt and any other add-ins like mustard or garlic, and then diluting with the oil until the flavor is just right. In the case of this coffee, the idea is to combine the concentrated coffee, whether cold brew concentrate, espresso, or some other strongly brewed coffee, and then mix in fresh lemon juice and sugar until it tastes perfectly balanced, if on the strong side. Only then would you add ice and dilute with water as needed to get it to a pleasurable stage. "If it tastes good on its own when concentrated," Jesse said, "it'll taste good once diluted."
This was a critical insight, and it helped deal with the trickiest part of writing a simple recipe like this one: Not all strongly brewed coffees taste the same. There's really no one magic ratio or recipe for making this coffee taste good, since it depends so much on what the coffee you're starting with tastes like, as well as how concentrated that coffee is. So while I offer a recipe below, I've made an effort to keep the specifics flexible—my ratio is just a starting point, you should adjust as needed to get your coffee to a place where it tastes great with the other ingredients.
A few points to consider:
- The Coffee: There's a wide world of coffee out there, and a lot of it can work for Mazagran. You'll want something strong, but whether that's cold brew concentrate, a shot or two of espresso, or a strong brew from a moka pot or Aeropress is up to you. Each will be different, and each may require slightly different amounts of lemon and sugar as well as overall dilution. Similarly, different bean types and roast levels will have a range of flavor profiles, from dark and roasty to bright and fruity. Those flavor profiles may also require differing amounts of lemon and sugar and dilution to reach your perfect Mazagran.
In my tests, a good ratio of concentrated coffee to lemon juice is 1:1 by volume, though that may not be true with all types and concentrations of coffee. If using regular-concentration coffee, I've found that 2:1 by volume works (so 1/2 cup coffee to every 1/4 cup of lemon juice), but again, this may require adjustment based on your coffee and taste preferences. * Lemon: Some recipe have you put rounds or wedges of lemon in the coffee along with ice, sugar, and some water, but mine follows Jesse's guidance on truly building a balanced drink with the component parts. That means mixing the coffee with fresh lemon juice and then sweetening it to taste. Of course you can always add some lemon pieces to the glass for garnish, or spritz a bit of lemon peel on the surface to get some of the skin's essential oil into the drink for an even more complex aroma. * Sugar: You have options here. You can just use granulated sugar, though that takes the longest to dissolve into the coffee-lemon base. Superfine sugar, which is just a more finely ground version of granulated sugar that dissolves more quickly, will be even easier. Easiest of all, if you already have it on hand, though, is simple syrup, in which the sugar is already dissolved into an equal volume of water for rapid sweetening and no further dissolving necessary. If you're feeling creative, you can also branch out into other sweeteners, including demerara or brown sugar or maple syrup. Those will bring deeper, darker, more complex flavors to the mix, which may or not be what you're in the mood for.
In a serving glass, combine concentrated coffee with lemon juice, sugar, and salt, stirring to combine and fully dissolve sugar (if not using simple syrup). Taste, then adjust flavor as desired with additional lemon juice and/or sugar until the flavor is strong but properly balanced between sweet, tart, and coffee. Add ice, dilute to taste with cold water, and garnish with lemon rounds. If desired, spike with rum to taste. Serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNotesThe type of coffee you use and how concentrated it is will have a big effect on how much lemon juice and sugar to add; this is a variable this recipe can not account for, so adjust accordingly. If you're using a regular-concentration coffee, start by doubling the amount of coffee relative to the lemon juice and sugar (so: 1/2 cup coffee for each 1/4 cup lemon juice and 2 tablespoons sugar), then adjust to taste; you may not need to dilute this coffee beyond the addition of ice.
You can make a 1:1 simple syrup by dissolving equal volumes of granulated sugar and water. While the sugar will dissolve the most quickly if heated with the water, you then have to allow it to cool; it's faster to simply combine the sugar and cold water and shake or stir until fully dissolved.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe coffee concentrate and simple syrup can be refrigerated separately for up to 2 weeks, but the lemon juice should be squeezed fresh and the drink should be mixed to-order.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeI know people call canned tuna the chicken of the sea, but I think the real chicken of the sea—the ingredient with just as much versatility as poultry—is shrimp. It’s a relatively affordable protein that you can dress up or down, and is delicious no matter which way you prepare it. Need a dinner party appetizer? Shrimp cocktail and shrimp dip await. Want to impress your date with an elegant dinner? You can’t go wrong with shrimp risotto. In search of a simple weeknight dinner? Shrimp scampi, please. But lately, my favorite way to cook shrimp is in the air fryer, and with this basic quick shrimp recipe developed by seasoned recipe developer Nicole Hopper, I’m willing to bet air-fried shrimp will be your new go to, as well.
I do a lot of cooking in my air fryer, simply because it’s so easy and quick—it’s basically a mini convection oven that’s remarkably efficient at circulating air, making both preheating and cooking much faster than if you were to use a standard oven. I rely on my air fryer to churn out wonderfully crispy potatoes and tender broccoli, and it’s no surprise that the appliance is also a great vessel for preparing shrimp. Whether I’m enjoying it on its own or incorporating it into other dishes like this shrimp, corn, and tomatillo salad, the air fryer is now my favorite method for cooking the crustacean. Read on for tips on preparing the best buttery air-fryer shrimp and to get Nicole’s recipe, along with five variations, including jerk, Old Bay, and ginger-sesame spins. After a brief, hands-off dry brine, the shrimp take just four minutes to cook, so this recipe is incredibly weeknight friendly.
Tips for Preparing Juicy Shrimp in the Air Fryer Don’t be afraid to go for frozen shrimp. As contributor Dan Nosowitz wrote in his guide to picking shrimp, most shrimp available at the grocery store or fishmonger in the United States are frozen at sea—even the ones on display behind the glass are thawed from frozen. It’s difficult (if not impossible) to know how long shrimp have been defrosted, and for that very reason, we recommend purchasing individually frozen (IQF), head-off, peel-on shrimp. The only time you should buy fresh is if you have access to just-caught shrimp. (Of course, if you live near the Gulf coast, ignore everything I just said, and feel free to go for fresh, never-frozen shrimp.) * Pick shell-on shrimp. It’s tempting to purchase peeled shrimp if you want to save time, but shelled shrimp are, more often than not, damaged. Because the delicate flesh is no longer protected by the shell, they tend to get mangled during transportation. For the best quality shrimp, buy them shell-on when possible and take the time to peel and devein them yourself. (See the notes below the recipe for tips on peeling the shrimp. We recommend leaving the tails intact.) * Thaw your shrimp properly. I know it’s tempting to just chuck frozen shrimp in your air fryer, but please refrain. Defrosting your shrimp takes just a few minutes, and just requires putting it in a bowl under cold running water. (If you’d like to conserve water, you can fill the bowl of shrimp with cold water and allow it to sit at room temperature until thawed, which will take slightly longer but still get you there.) * Devein your shrimp. My husband I jokingly call the vein “shrimp poop,” which, while immature, is not inaccurate. The vein is the digestive tract, and though it’s edible, it can be bitter and sandy. After defrosting and peeling the shrimp, use a paring knife to make a shallow slit from the top to the bottom of the shrimp, then use the tip to gently lift out the vein. Or you could just ask your fishmonger to peel and devein the shrimp for you. Chances are they’ll be happy to oblige. * Dry-brine your shrimp with salt, sugar, and baking soda. Just as dry-brining results in tender, juicier roast chicken and steaks, seasoning the shrimp with salt, baking soda, and sugar results in shrimp that’s satisfyingly crisp on the outside and moist on the inside. The salt helps the crustacean better retain its moisture, while baking soda produces juicier shrimp. As Kenji noted in his recipe for grilled shrimp, baking soda raises the pH of the shellfish. The Maillard reaction—a chain of chemical reactions that occurs when proteins and sugars are transformed by heat—takes place at higher pH levels, too, which means faster browning without overcooking the shrimp. * Keep the cooking time short. To prevent overcooking your shrimp, cook it for just a few minutes at a high temperature. We recommend four minutes at 400ºF (205ºC), which keeps them nice and plump and prevents them from becoming rubbery. * Experiment with different seasonings.* Salt and pepper is great, but try mixing it up with the variations listed below.
Using paper towels, pat shrimp dry. In a medium bowl, toss shrimp with salt, baking soda, and sugar until evenly coated. Arrange shrimp on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate, uncovered, for 20 to 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazePreheat a 6-quart air fryer to 400℉ (205ºC) for 5 minutes. Using paper towels, pat shrimp dry again, transfer to a large bowl, and toss with melted butter to coat.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeArrange shrimp in air fryer basket in a single layer, making sure shrimp are not touching each other. Cook, undisturbed, until shrimp are cooked through and have just turned opaque, about 4 minutes. Serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeVariations Jerk: Increase butter to 2 tablespoons. Stir 2 teaspoons jerk seasoning, 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest, and 1/4 teaspoon grated garlic into melted butter. * Old Bay: Increase butter to 2 tablespoons. Stir 1 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning and 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest into melted butter. (Optional: sprinkle with chopped parsley before serving.) * Cilantro-Lime: Stir 1 teaspoon honey, 1 teaspoon grated lime zest, 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice, and 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika into melted butter. Toss with 1 tablespoon. finely chopped cilantro after cooking. * Ginger-Sesame: Use oil instead of butter. Stir1/2 teaspoon grated fresh ginger, 1/2 teaspoon grated garlic, 2 teaspoons soy sauce and 2 teaspoons sesame oil into oil. (Optional: sprinkle with sesame seeds before serving.) * Honey-Harissa:* Stir 1 1/2 tablespoons harissa paste and 2 teaspoons honey into melted butter.
Special EquipmentWire rack, rimmed baking sheet, 6-quart air fryer
NotesTo peel shrimp, grab the shell segment next to the final one containing the tail, and pull it outward away from the shrimp. Continue removing the shell toward the head and it should come off easily. Remove legs if they didn’t come off with the shell.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikSummer is prime season for locally grown fruits, especially ripe, sweet berries. Whether you picked up a few quarts at the farmers market or stained your fingers picking your own, here are 14 ways to make blackberries shine. From fosted cakes, jewel-toned cocktails, cool ice cream, and old-fashioned blackberry cobbler, these blackberry recipes are perfect for any party, potluck, or an evening with friends.
Old-Fashioned Blackberry CobblerSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThere's nothing simpler than a fresh fruit cobbler—just a pinch of starch and sugar to bind and sweeten the best summer fruit, all bubbly and thick beneath a golden biscuit crust (and maybe a dollop of whipped cream, if you're lucky). It's one of the easiest bakes around, and even less-than-perfect blackberries can make a stunning dessert.
Blackberry Cake With Cream Cheese FrostingSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis cake's pretty purple color and fruity flavor come from fresh blackberry purée, which acts like buttermilk to make the cake itself tender, tangy, and light. Paired with tangy cream cheese frosting, it may just become your new favorite dessert.
Blackberry Ice CreamSerious / Vicky WasikCelebrate summer blackberries at their peak with this intensely flavored and pretty purple ice cream. Ripe blackberries are cooked down on the stovetop with sugar to concentrate them, then strained to remove seeds. A touch of cinnamon amplifies the natural aroma of blackberries.
Blackberry, Grapefruit, and Sage Infused WaterSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezSweet ripe blackberries, tart grapefruit, and woodsy sage blend together for a refreshing and balanced infused water.
Blackberry Mint KombuchaSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezHere, adding fruit and a small amount of sugar for the secondary fermentation results in a refreshingly fizzy kombucha.
Blackberry MargaritaSerious EatsMargaritas are also a great way to use up some of that fresh fruit from the market—especially fruits with a hint of tartness. Blackberries add deep berry flavor and a vibrant red color to this margarita. The salted rim provides the perfect contrast to the sweet and tart citrus and berry flavors while the blackberry garnish helps dress this drink up.
Blackberry and White Chocolate Layer CakeSerious Eats / Mimi Ritzen CrawfordHere, a lemon layer cake is filled with blackberry jam and encased in rolled wafer cookies and white chocolate for a summer dessert that's a showstopper at any festive occasion.
Blackberry-Thyme Crumb CakeSerious Eats / María del Mar SacasaBlackberry preserves get an unexpected exclamation point with fresh thyme and lemon zest in this crumbly, buttery cake that's a cinch to make.
Lemon Ginger Blackberry Swirl Ice CreamSerious Eats / Max FalkowitzThis ice cream pairs a bright, slightly spicy lemon-ginger base with a dark, sweet, and tart blackberry swirl.
DIY Blackberry LiqueurSerious EatsBlackberry liqueur, also known as creme de mûre, is a summer must! It has the brightness of berries and the richness of a sophisticated liqueur all rolled into one.
Blackberry Brown Sugar Frozen YogurtSerious Eats / Max FalkowitzUsing brown sugar instead of white here adds a subtle caramel molasses note to frozen yogurt. It also enhances the dark, rich flavor of blackberry purée. A pinch of clove adds more spice.
Apple Blackberry Thyme JamSerious Eats / Lucy BakerThis sweet, tart, herbaceous jam pairs well with hearty whole grain breads and bran muffins, but it can also be used as a glaze for pork tenderloin. Pulse the blackberries in the food processor a few times to coarsely purée them.
Blackberry Pistachio Icebox CakeSerious Eats / Max FalkowitzThis cake is studded with blackberries, pistachios, and pomegranate molasses in between layers of tea biscuits and rose water-infused whipped cream. It's sweet and creamy like an icebox cake should be, but tart berries and nutty pistachios keep things interesting for an easy but delicious warm-weather dessert.
Blackberry Gin and TonicSerious Eats / Kelly CarámbulaThe sharp, tart flavor of a classic gin and tonic is a perfect pairing for ripe blackberries. Blackberries and lime form the backbone of this simple summer sipper.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayThere are certain foods I prefer to buy not make, like fried chicken and ice cream. Anecdotally, the number of existing, dedicated shops and stands suggests crepes fall into this category for many people. However, after my first attempt many moons ago, I was surprised to find how easy they are to make at home. As my adoration for thin, crispy crepes raged on, a good crepe pan became essential.
While a stainless steel or nonstick skillet will do in a pinch, a dedicated crepe pan has a wider surface and lower sides to deliver better results with less fuss. That said, there are a lot of options: classic carbon steel, nonstick pans with wooden spreaders, and electric models that are meant to be dipped into batter. As a site, we’ve never reviewed crepe pans. It was high time to crack some eggs, whisk batter, and get testing.
The Winners, at a GlanceThis crepe pan is thin, light, and conducts heat just like a crepe pan should (read: evenly). Unlike heavy cast iron, you won’t find any trouble lifting and swirling batter. Once seasoned, clean-up is easy.
Many cooks will find a nonstick crepe pan easier to use, as it virtually eliminates all issues with flipping. The Le Creuset Toughened Nonstick Pro has a huge surface and comes with a wooden spreader, making it all the easier to get the batter to as thin as possible.
Dedicated crepe stands often use these circular electric griddles. My favorite from Proctor Silex has an extra-large surface, eight settings, and heats quickly and evenly.
This machine has you dip the hot surface into the batter, eliminating the need to perfect your swirling and thinning skills. I think it’s a good option for those new to crepe making.
The TestsOne hundred-plus of crepes later and we found our four favorite crepe makers (including this electric model).Serious Eats / Taylor Murray Basic Crepes Test: To see how crepe pans and machines could perform at producing their namesake food, I made a full recipe’s worth of our basic crepe recipe with each model. I evaluated the final crepes, how easy the crepes were to flip, the overall performance and usability, and the ease of cleaning. * Galettes Bretonnes (Winners Only):* For those good enough to pass the first test, I made buckwheat crepes with them (typically used in galettes bretonnes). This savory batter is thicker and more viscous than wheat flour variations, so I noted how easy (or hard) it was to flip and fold this type of crepe.
How to Use a Crepe PanSerious Eats / Taylor MurrayBefore diving into the nitty-gritty of what I learned while testing, let’s take a beat to discuss how to use a crepe pan. You start by heating the pan over medium to medium-high heat (experience will help you nail the sweet spot). If the pan requires it, add some clarified butter and then a ladle of crepe batter.
Immediately begin tilting and swirling the pan to spread the batter. This movement should be quick and smooth to cover the bottom of the pan evenly before the batter sets. The goal is to create a thin layer that cooks uniformly.
Alternatively, if using a larger crepe pan, an electric crepe machine, or aiming for impeccably round crepes, a batter spreader is helpful. Pour the batter into the center, then use the spreader—often a T-shaped wooden tool—to swirl the batter outward in a quick, circular motion, starting from the center and working to the edges.
After the batter is spread, cook the crepe for about 45 to 60 seconds, or until the edges begin to brown and lift from the pan. Use a spatula to check if the underside is golden and, if so, flip it carefully. Cook the second side for about 30 seconds until lightly golden. Once done, slide the crepe out of the pan and onto a plate. Adjust the heat as needed throughout the process, as the pan can become hotter the longer it's used.
What We LearnedShould You Buy an Electric Crepe Machine? If you're new to crepes, a crepe machine may be the way to go.Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayThere’s a reason crepe shops cook crepes with electric machines. Like electric griddles, these machines are simple to use, offer even heating crepe after crepe, and never give you trouble with sticking.
So, what’s the downside? Well, the machines can leave a few things to be desired. For one, there’s no picking up and swirling the batter to thin it. The machine stays put on the table so you’ll have to practice spreading and will need to buy a spreader/spatula if it doesn’t come with one. You also won’t be able to submerge the machine in water and will have to clean the surface by hand. Storage is another factor to consider, especially if you have limited space.
Another drawback is that true, traditional French crepes have buttery, crispy edges that I wasn’t able to replicate with any of the nonstick machines (or pans for that matter).
Carbon Steel Was a WinnerCarbon steel made the most beautifully browned crepres.Serious Eats / Taylor MurraySurprisingly (or not, since carbon steel is awesome), I preferred the carbon steel crepe pans over the nonstick steel or cast iron options. The cast iron pans were too heavy to lift and tilt, resulting in unevenly spread batter. While easy to pick up, the nonstick pans couldn’t deliver the same texture and flavor as mentioned above. Carbon steel pans strike the best balance between heat conductivity, ease of use, and performance. They provide a durable, naturally nonstick surface when properly seasoned, are lighter than cast iron for easier handling, and offer superior heat control (a must for crepes).
Many carbon steel pans must be seasoned, a fairly simple process that typically only needs to be done before first use. For the De Buyer crepe pan I tested, this involved rubbing some oil on the pan and heating it to smoking before letting it cool. Some carbon steel pans come pre-seasoned, so make sure to check the manufacturer’s instructions.
What Size Crepe Pan Do You Need?Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayWhen deciding on the perfect crepe pan, size plays a role in the ease and quality of your crepe-making. A pan with a larger surface area offers more room for batter spreading, which is crucial for creating thin, even crepes. The ideal diameter for a traditional stovetop crepe pan is between 9 1/2 to 10 inches. At this size, the pan is large enough to allow for spreading, yet small enough to manage easily over the burner and flip the crepes gracefully.
For those interested in electric crepe makers, opting for a model that measures at least 11 inches in diameter is ideal. Some of the best ones, like our top pick, extended up to 13 inches. These larger sizes allow you to use the spreader to smooth batter as far as you need to get it ultra-thin.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Crepe PanSerious Eats / Taylor MurrayIf you’re in the market for a crepe pan, you’ll first have to choose between nonstick or traditional. I preferred the overall texture and quality of the crepes produced on carbon steel and cast iron pans, though these do have a learning curve compared to nonstick. Between carbon steel and cast iron, carbon steel was much easier to lift, tilt, and swirl with—essential for making evenly spread crepes.
Whichever pan you choose, pick one that’s lightweight enough to pick up and tilt. For me, that was no more than three pounds. As far as size, larger surface areas left more room for spreading, with the sweet spot hitting right around 9 1/2 to 10 inches.
If the electric crepe machines seem more your speed, opt for one at least 11 inches across (and up to 13 like our winner, if you can). The best ones come with tools for spreading and flipping and have easy-to-read and intuitive controls that let you adjust heat precisely. Longer cords are always a plus, too.
Our Favorite Crepe PansWhat we liked: We’ve been fans of carbon steel pans for a long time. Thin and lightweight, this type of pan heats up quickly and conducts heat well. Those same properties make it a great material for a crepe pan. This pan has a wide surface area with low, gently sloped sides. This design gives you the option to tilt and swirl the batter to thin it or use a spreader (both a wooden spreader and flipper are included with the pan). When it came time to cook crepes, the batter easily spread across the surface of the pan, resulting in a thin crepe with lacy edges.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayWhat we didn’t like: This pan requires a round of seasoning before you begin, but we have a handy guide for that. Once this part was done, the crepe batter never stuck. Carbon steel is not dishwasher-safe and must be dried thoroughly after cleaning to prevent rusting.
If the price is a bit high for your budget, the pan is also available at a lower price point without the wooden tools.
Key Specs Material: Carbon steel * Weight: 2 pounds * Handle length: 8 inches * Induction compatible?: Yes * Dishwasher-safe?:* No
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayWhat we liked: Le Creuset makes some great products and their crepe pan is no exception. I loved the super-wide surface area and the small lip for corralling batter. The nonstick coating gave me no trouble when it came to flipping crepes. The coating is triple-reinforced and distributed heat more evenly than the other nonstick models I tested. It also comes with a wooden batter spreader.
What we didn't like: This pan is pricey. While we don’t typically recommend splurging on nonstick, a crepe pan’s going to be used far less frequently than a standard nonstick skillet.
Key Specs Material: Nonstick coated metal * Weight: 3 lbs, 8 ounces * Handle length: 8 inches * Induction compatible?: Yes * Dishwasher-safe?:* Yes (though we don’t recommend cleaning nonstick in the dishwasher)
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayWhat we liked: Most of the electric crepe machines operated the same, though there were a few ways that this one stood out. The surface area is extra-wide, which helps thin the batter as much as possible. You could even use this machine to make dosa or large tortillas. The heat settings are clearly marked and simple to operate, with plenty of room for half settings between numbers so you can dial in the perfect temperature.
The finished crepes were evenly cooked and flipped without sticking or resisting and the machine comes with a few tools, like a batter scoop, spreader, and flipper. The body of the machine stays cool during cooking, so you can move it after use without much issue. I also appreciated the built-in place to store the cord.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayWhat we didn't like: Keep in mind that this type of crepe maker can’t be lifted and turned, so you’ll have to perfect using the tool to spread the batter. However, I was able to get the hang of it quickly. This type of machine is bulkier to store than a slim metal pan.
While a nonstick surface like this does not require the use of oil or butter, the downside to that is that the final crepes will not have the signature buttery edges that true French crepes offer (the manufacturer says not to use butter, as this gunk up the surface over time).
Key Specs Material: Stainless steel; plastic * Weight: 3 lbs, 14 ounces * Handle length: N/A * Induction compatible?: N/A * Dishwasher-safe?:* The tools are
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayWhat we liked: Instead of the ladle-and-spread method, you add all your batter into the provided bowl and dip the hot surface of this crepe maker into it. Only a thin layer sticks to the machine, eliminating the business of trying to spread the batter as thin as possible. When the crepe is cooked a few moments later, the edge starts to peel back and the crepe can be easily flipped and removed. While the overall quality didn’t compare to most of the other pans and makers we tested, this could be a great option for beginners or those intimidated by the crepe cooking process.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayWhat we didn't like: The crepes were not the prettiest or the most evenly cooked. Crepe purists and perfectionists might not be satisfied with the results from this machine, though I would say this pick is not for them anyway.
Key Specs Material: Nonstick-coated metal and plastic * Weight: 1 pound, 10 ounces * Handle length: 8 inches * Induction compatible?: N/A * Dishwasher-safe?:* No
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayThe Competition* SENSARTE Nonstick Crepe Pan: It’s a decent nonstick option at a low price, but the faux wood handle felt cheap and the results weren’t as good as some other pans. * Nordic Ware Traditional French Steel Crepe Pan: The pan burned crepes easily during our regular testing and got discolored. * CHEFMAN Electric Crepe Maker: The whole machine gets hot during use, which makes it hard to handle. I noted some unevenness on the crepes during cooking. * Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Crepe Pan: Far too heavy and quite expensive as well. * CucinaPro 12" Griddle & Crepe Maker: Almost as good as the Proctor Silex and was beat out only for being a touch smaller. * Cuisinart 10-Inch Crepe Pan: This pan passed our first trial but struggled with the crepes brettones, where you need a wider surface area to swirl the thick batter. * Anolon Advanced Hard Anodized Nonstick Crepe Pan: A fairly good nonstick pan that offered fine results, just not the best in terms of evenness. It didn’t have as wide of a surface as our winner. * Staub Enameled Cast Iron Crêpe Pan with Spreader & Spatula: Pricey, heavy, and bulky.
FAQsCan you make crepes in a cast iron pan? You can make crepes in a cast iron pan. Keep in mind that you may struggle to swirl and flip the crepe in a cast iron skillet due to its weight and high sides.
Is cast iron or carbon steel better for crepes?We found that carbon steel is better for crepes. While cast iron is great at distributing and maintaining heat, it's heavier than carbon steel. We preferred lightweight pans we could pick up and tilt to swirl the batter.
Why We’re the Experts* Taylor Murray has been working in food and food media for over 10 years, including in award-winning restaurants. She has written extensively for Serious Eats. * Taylor tested 12 crepe pans, making a full batch of standard crepes in each and a batch of crepes bretonnes in the winners. During this, she evaluated each pan’s performance, usability, and design.
Serious Eats/Morgan Hunt GlazeChicken katsu is an easy dish to love. Juicy chicken cutlets coated in an incredibly crisp layer of golden-brown panko bread crumbs, served with a sweet-and-savory tonkatsu sauce and a side of crisp shredded cabbage and steamed white rice, make for a simple and delicious weeknight meal. While both our classic chicken katsu and our katsu sando recipes call for shallow frying in bubbling oil (and produce delicious results), we wanted to see if we could produce similar results in an air fryer—our favorite appliance for shortening cook time and crisping all sorts of foods.
We found that the air fryer subtracts the annoyance of deep frying while delivering absolutely perfect, you-probably-can't-tell-the-difference-from-deep-fried results. With the help of an air fryer's powerful convection fan (because an air fryer, as you might already know, is just a supercharged mini convection oven), we're able to get katsu-style chicken that has juicy, tender meat encased within a light, shatteringly crisp panko crust in a fraction of the time—and with less mess—than fried versions. This easy air-fryer version of katsu comes together in about 30 minutes, and you need just a handful of ingredients to make it.
The cutlets are wonderful with the classic katsu pairings of shredded cabbage, rice, and homemade tonkatsu sauce or a store-bought sauce like the excellent Bull-Dog brand sauce. But don’t stop there: We also love incorporating the crisp cutlets into sandwiches, serving them with just about any kind of salad, or with simple sides like air-fryer broccoli and air-fryer potatoes. Here are a few tips for golden and crisp panko-crusted chicken katsu in your air fryer.
Serious Eats/Morgan Hunt GlazeTips for Crisp Air-Fryer Chicken KatsuPound the chicken into thin cutlets. Both boneless skinless chicken breast or thighs will work well in this recipe, though they need to be treated a little differently. Boneless, skinless chicken thighs require a bit less prep than the chicken breasts; just use a meat pounder or the bottom of a heavy skillet to pound them inside a zipper-lock bag until they are an even quarter-inch thick. Just avoid mindless bludgeoning when pounding, as this can cause tears and holes in the meat—use firm but gentle pressure, focusing on the uneven spots.
Whole chicken breast halves are too big for this recipe (especially considering the massive chickens you find at the supermarket these days), so before pounding them thin, you’ll first need to split each breast into two cutlets. It's easy to do—if you've never done it before, just follow this step-by-step guide for how to cut chicken breasts into cutlets. Once split, the breasts can be pounded just like the chicken thighs.
Briefly dry-brine the chicken before cooking. Because it has a tendency to dry out, chicken—especially lean breasts—really benefits from a wet or dry brine. Treating the meat, either by soaking it in a saltwater solution (wet-brining) or by salting it and letting it rest (dry-brining), will cause its protein structure to break down a little bit, which in turn prevents the chicken from releasing moisture when cooked. Kenji tested and established in his chicken katsu recipe that dry-brining the chicken, even for just a brief time, is worth it. ( We typically prefer dry brining to wet brining because it is more efficient and that holds true for this recipe.)
If you have time to salt your chicken and let it rest for a few hours, by all means do so, but we found that even just a 15 minute resting time yielded chicken that was juicier and better seasoned in every bite than unbrined chicken.
Is unbrined chicken bad? No, not by any means, and if you're in a rush to get dinner on the table, you can skip this step. But if you skip the brine altogether, we’d strongly suggest skipping lean chicken breasts and using fattier chicken thighs, which are less prone to drying out.
Stick with the classic breading technique. We use the classic three-bowl dredging technique to ensure the chicken is evenly coated with panko before cooking. Dry (flour), wet (egg), dry again (panko) is the order of operation to guarantee the panko stays glued to the chicken. Don’t be tempted to skip the initial flour dredge. The flour is like the primer of the breaded-and-fried-cutlet world—it creates an even surface for the egg to cling to, which in turn helps the outer panko layer adhere well to the chicken, so you avoid a cooked cutlet with an uneven, patchy coating.
Serious Eats/Morgan Hunt GlazeOil your panko. Since we are not deep frying the cutlets in a large vat of hot oil, we need to enhance the breaded cutlets’ ability to crisp and brown evenly at every stage possible. Coating the panko bread crumbs with a tablespoon of neutral oil like canola or vegetable oil before dredging promotes browning and crisping.
Add some cooking spray and flip the cutlets for a well-browned crunchy coating. The success of this recipe relies on its ability to mimic classically prepared katsu’s crispy and browned deep-fried results. Oiling the panko as described above is one step to achieving this. The other key step is to lightly spray the tops of the chicken with cooking spray after you place the chicken in the preheated air-fryer basket. The light coating of the cooking spray is just enough to enhance browning without giving the chicken the off canned-oil flavor that can come with overzealous use of cooking spray.
Serious Eats/Morgan Hunt GlazeIf using chicken breast, cut the chicken breast in half, butterflying into 2 thin cutlets.
Place the butterflied cutlets or the whole thighs, one at a time, in a heavy-duty zipper-lock bag and pound gently to 1/4-inch thickness using a meat pounder or the bottom of a heavy 8-inch skillet. (See this guide to cutting chicken breasts into cutlets for step-by-step directions.) Season generously with salt and pepper. Let sit at room temperature for 15 minutes, or for best results, refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to overnight after seasoning.
Serious Eats/Air Fryer Chicken KatsuSet a (6-quart) air fryer to 350°F and preheat for 5 minutes. Place flour, beaten eggs, and panko in three separate shallow bowls. Add oil to the panko and stir until the panko is well-coated. Working with one cutlet at a time, dredge in flour, shaking off excess. Dip chicken in egg, then dredge in panko, pressing gently to help panko adhere; transfer chicken to a plate. Repeat the process with the remaining cutlet.
Serious Eats/Morgan Hunt GlazePlace the prepared cutlets into the preheated air-fryer basket. Spray the tops of the chicken with cooking spray. Cook until golden-brown, 6 to 8 minutes, then flip the chicken cutlets and spray the top of the cutlets with cooking spray. Cook until golden brown and internal temperature reaches 160°F (70℃), 6 to 8 minutes for breasts and 175℉(80℃). Transfer chicken to a cutting board. Sprinkle with additional salt to taste and let rest for 5 minutes.
Serious Eats/Morgan Hunt GlazeSlice katsu into thin strips. Serve with tonkatsu sauce, cabbage, and white rice, if using.
Serious Eats/Morgan Hunt GlazeSpecial EquipmentAir Fryer
NotesThis recipe can easily be doubled and cooked in 2 batches. Hold the cooked cutlets warm in a 200℉ oven on a wire rack–lined rimmed baking sheet while cooking the other two cutlets.
Serious Eats/Morgan Hunt GlazeRich creamy dips are one of life’s greatest pleasures, and the old party stalwart, spinach-artichoke dip, is among the best. As a child of the 90s, I’ve enjoyed countless bowls of spinach dip at parties, as well as my fair share of sizzling cast iron skillets of the iconic dip at chain restaurants like TGI Fridays. It’s a bonafide crowd pleaser and edible proof that the only thing better than plain mayonnaise is mayonnaise bubbling with cheese and chunks of savory spinach and chopped artichoke hearts.
While it’s a beloved restaurant staple, I’d argue that the best version of spinach-artichoke dip is enjoyed fresh out of the oven at home, where you have total control over the ingredients. And that ratio of ingredients needs to be perfect: There’s nothing worse than scooping up a bite of dip and winding up with too much spinach, not enough artichoke, or worse, a dip with a grainy or greasy texture. Our recipe nails the perfect proportions of spinach to artichokes and uses a blend of cream cheese, mayo, and sour cream with a mixture of cheese to create the ultimate creamy texture and balanced flavor. If you’re looking to perfect this party dip for your next gathering or game-day spread, or even just a cozy night in, here’s what you need to know to get it right.
Serious Eats/Morgan Hunt GlazeTips for Rich Creamy Spinach Artichoke DipUse a trifecta of creamy ingredients for the richest dip possible. Many versions of spinach-artichoke dip call for just one creamy ingredient (often mayonnaise or cream cheese) to fold into the cheese mixture before baking. But we didn’t hold back here: This recipe calls for mayonnaise, sour cream, and cream cheese for the richest, creamiest dip possible. On top of the silky texture each of these three ingredients has, they each add a slightly different tangy note for a flavor that’s both nuanced and cohesive.
Double down on cheese. Monterey jack cheese or a mild white cheddar cheese melt easily into the dip when baked, and their mild flavor is balanced by sharp, nutty, and assertive Parmesan cheese.
Add lemon zest, garlic, and Dijon mustard to balance the rich, creamy base. This dip is rich, there’s no skirting around it. But it needs a few bright additions to balance it out, so you’ll want to eat bite after bite. A small amount of lemon zest, fresh garlic, and Dijon mustard perk it up nicely. We also love the savory appeal that one tablespoon of white miso adds to the dip, but feel free to omit it if you don’t have miso on hand.
Serious Eats/Morgan Hunt GlazeStick with frozen spinach but make sure its the right cut. We started testing the recipe with fresh spinach, as we assumed the old adage “fresh is best” would ring true here. But while we loved the idea and the look of the dip made with vibrant green fresh spinach, the added steps of chopping, cooking, and wringing out the excess moisture from the spinach was not worth the effort. The flavor of the fresh spinach versus frozen was almost indistinguishable once mixed into the cheese-laden dip. Make sure to use frozen spinach labeled “cut-leaf” and not “chopped.” Frozen chopped spinach is too finely chopped and creates a mealy texture in the dip. Meanwhile, frozen cut-leaf spinach is the perfect size for scooping onto veggies and chips.
Go with canned artichokes. The outcome was similar when comparing fresh artichokes to canned artichokes in this recipe. It was silly to take the time and labor to prep fresh artichokes just to mask their flavor in a cheesy dip. Fresh artichokes are glorious and have their time and place, but this dip is not one of them. So stick with canned artichokes, rinse them well to remove excess salt, and chop them into bite-size, scoopable bits.
Bake at a steady moderate heat. When attempting to bake and melt a large amount of cheese and cream into a cohesive mixture, you want to avoid heating the mixture too quickly or at to too high a temperature. This can cause the cheese and dairy to separate, leaving you with pools of leached fat swimming on top of the dip. To avoid this greasy mess, bake the dip at a steady moderate temperature. Do not be tempted to speed up the baking process by raising the oven temperature.
Skip the cast iron. Another way to avoid an unpleasant separated dip is to choose the right pan for baking. When seasoned recipe developer Julia Levy was developing this recipe in the test kitchen, she started by baking the dip in a cast iron skillet. She assumed the cast iron’s great heat retention properties would keep the dip warm for longer when left out to enjoy (which it did). But she found that the cast iron skillet's heat retention overheated the dip, even when baked at a moderate temperature, causing the dip to break. We wished that wasn’t the case since, as Julia noted, the skillet was also just so cute! But because we here at Serious Eats are firm believers that a practical, foolproof recipe is more important than a cute “‘gram-worthy” presentation, we recommend baking it in a standard glass or ceramic baking dish.
Serious Eats/Morgan Hunt GlazeAdjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 375°F(190°C). Grease a 2-quart baking dish with cooking spray; set aside.
Serious Eats/ Morgan Hunt GlazeWhisk together mayonnaise, sour cream, mustard, miso (if using), lemon zest, and garlic in a large bowl. Stir in cream cheese until fully combined. Fold in spinach, artichokes, 2 1/2 cups of the Monterey Jack cheese and 1 3/4 cups of the Parmigiano until evenly distributed.
Serious Eats/ Morgan Hunt GlazeTransfer to the prepared baking dish and sprinkle evenly with the remaining 1/2 cup Monterey Jack and remaining 1/4 cup Parmigiano.
Serious Eats/Morgan Hunt GlazeBake until the edges are bubbly and the cheese on top is light golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Let sit to cool slightly for 5 minutes. Serve hot with crackers, pita chips, tortilla chips, and/or crudités.
Serious Eats/Morgan Hunt GlazeSpecial Equipment2-quart baking dish
Make-Ahead and StorageThe dip can be combined and assembled through step 2 and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Increase the baking time by about 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangA Tatung rice cooker was an essential kitchen item in many Taiwanese immigrant households. Originally produced in the 1960s (and sold for a mere $9 in Taiwan), it's a dependable, sturdy appliance that stands the test of time—many have used the same machine for decades.
My mother used her Tatung daily, and I’d help her prepare the rice by pouring the grains into the metal bowl. With a simple press of a switch, the cooking process started. The steam enveloped the rice, “popping” each grain to produce the perfect batch (it sounds like a popcorn machine when on). I loved the smell; it was like inhaling a pillow of comfort. Our house was rich, even when I wore cheap polyester clothes from the Taiwanese street market to my rural American elementary school.
For me and many other Taiwanese Americans, Tatung rice cookers are nostalgic reminders of childhood and the comforts of home. They're versatile, easy to use, and durable, and will always have a place in my kitchen.
Why I Love the Tatung Rice CookerAs an adult, I’ve outfitted my kitchen with Crock-Pots, Instant Pots, and snazzy singing Japanese rice cookers with tons of buttons and settings. Honestly, for me, the results can’t compare to the simplicity of the Tatung, which has a single button to start the cooking process. When it’s done, the button pops up decisively, and each grain of rice is steamed to dewy perfection—not mushy, not crunchy, but just right. While it's on the pricier side for a rice cooker, its longevity and consistency make it worth it.
Serious Eats / Helen HwangHow It WorksThe Tatung (like many other rice cookers) works like an electric steamer and double boiler, using the indirect heat from steam to slowly and gently cook the rice.
To make rice in the Tatung, measure it and add it to the metal bowl, covering it with water to one of the levels etched inside (my mother used her knuckles to measure how much water to add). Then, add water to the outer pot, which surrounds the inner pot holding the rice; this helps control the amount of steam (more water means more steam). For example, if I’m making rice to accompany a stir fry, I want it to be fluffy, so I don’t add much extra water. But if I’m making congee, I add more water to make the rice into a thick soup. But no matter which way I prepare the rice, the Tatung delivers fantastic results.
FAQs What can you make in a rice cooker besides rice? A rice cooker kind of acts like an electric double boiler, which means you can slow-cook whole chicken or even braise beef. You can also make congee, tea eggs, stews, chicken soups, and steamed sweet golden cakes called “nian gao.”
How long does a rice cooker keep rice warm? A rice cooker can keep its contents warm for hours, but the U.S. Product Safety Commission doesn’t recommend keeping appliances plugged in and on for too long, since they can pose a fire hazard.
Why We're the Experts* Helen Hwang is a freelance writer and former mechanical engineer. * She's written for Eater San Diego, The New York Times, and Parents, among other publications. * She grew up using a Tatung rice cooker and still thinks it's one of the best offerings on the market.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipWhen you Google “Malaysian recipes” or “Malay recipes,” the search results tend to show dishes reserved for special occasions or eaten outside the home: nasi lemak, char kuey tiao, roti canai, satay, etc. Those are foods that restaurants and street vendors often offer, and thus what foreigners who only experience the cuisine at those places come to associate with it. What often gets excluded are the humble, home-style recipes that so many of us locals know and love. This creates a feedback loop in which a multitude of recipes rarely find their way to an English-speaking audience—not enough people in the United States know about them, the search volume is low, and so publications have little incentive to invest in the creation of them.
This makes me think of the staggering amount of not just everyday Malay home cooking, but home cooking from around the world that slips through international best-of lists on the internet, simply because the information isn’t available in English. There’s a lot to unpack there, and while I can’t turn the problem around overnight, I can tell you right now about a category of home-cooked dishes that is loved by Malaysians the world over: masak lemak.
“Masak lemak” is one of the most popular styles of cooking among the Malay communities of Peninsular Malaysia. It literally translates to “cooked in fat,” but specifically it means to cook in coconut milk. You can cook almost any ingredient in this style, from various proteins to a whole host of vegetables.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipTo bolster the flavors of the main protein or vegetables, aromatics are added; which ones, exactly, depend on the featured ingredient. Turmeric leaves, fresh turmeric, and lemongrass are commonly added to masak lemak that contain red meat, poultry, and wild vegetables that are foraged from the jungle, especially in the southern states. The interior of the peninsula tends towards freshwater fish and is often enhanced with fermented durian (known locally as tempoyak). Leafy vegetables like bok choy are often cooked masak lemak–style without any turmeric, leaving the soup a pale milky white, and served with another dish that has more heft, like chicken or squid cooked with sambal tumis. Clearly, masak lemak is very much a choose-your-own-adventure dish.
The following recipe features hearty fiddlehead ferns (known as pucuk paku) and fresh shelled fava beans. The fiddlehead ferns in Malaysia tend to be on the leafier side, but this recipe will work just the same with fiddlehead ferns available in the United States. As for the beans, here I'm calling for fresh shelled fava beans, which make for a good substitute for the bitter beans (also known as stink beans, or petai) that are common in Malaysia. Bitter beans are without a doubt an acquired taste, but most who try them love their slightly bitter juiciness, a fantastic foil for spicy chiles and gravies. (Be warned: The stink stays in your system for one to two days, so don’t eat this before a first date!) Favas won't have the same aroma, but they play the textural role of the bitter beans well.
If neither of these vegetables are available, any hearty, leafy vegetable should do. Masak lemak is usually served as part of a family-style meal with fried or grilled proteins, or seafood cooked in sambal tumis.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipTrim the fiddleheads to remove any woody stem. (If using the more leafy Southeast Asian variety, trim and reserve the leaves, removing any woody steam, and chop the leaves into bite-size lengths.) Rinse under running water and set aside.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipUsing a mortar and pestle, pound bird’s eye chiles, Asian shallots, and fresh turmeric into a coarse paste, 2 to 3 minutes. Add dried anchovies and pound until crushed slightly, 10 to 15 seconds (you’re only looking to crush them slightly, not pulverize them). Place lemongrass stalk in the mortar and pound 1 or 2 times with the pestle to bruise.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipIn a medium saucepan, stir together the contents of the mortar and pestle with the coconut milk and water. Bring to a boil over medium heat.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipWhen the liquid begins to bubble, add trimmed fiddleheads to saucepan. Stir, then cover, reduce heat to low, and cook until leaves are just wilted, about 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipMeanwhile, prepare the turmeric leaf, if using: Using a sharp knife, trim the turmeric leaf away from the spine. Stack the 2 pieces of leaf together, roll them up tightly, then slice into very thin strips.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipStir in fava beans, sliced turmeric leaf (if using), salt, and sugar. Cover the saucepan and cook until the beans are just tender, another 3 to 5 minutes. Serve with cooked white rice.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipSpecial EquipmentMortar and pestle
NotesThe fiddleheads in Malaysia are leafier than the ones sold in US markets. Either will work here, though the US fiddleheads will remain in more distinct whole pieces.
This recipe was tested with boxed coconut milk, which comes in a variety of sizes. If using canned, stir the coconut cream and coconut milk together before measuring.
Dried anchovies (called ikan bilis in Malay) can be found at any good Asian grocery store, especially those specializing in Southeast Asian imports. They are sometimes sold already cleaned and gutted, but those will be more expensive; if yours aren't cleaned, you'll need to prep them by removing the heads, then splitting the fish lengthwise so you can gut and debone them. The bigger varieties tend to be quite salty, so seek out the smaller varieties. If using whole anchovies, you’ll need about ten 3-inch anchovies.
Turmeric leaves are the young, tender leaves of fresh turmeric rhizomes. The leaves are available in Malaysian and Indonesian grocery stores under the name “daun kunyit.”
Fresh turmeric is available at Southeast Asian and South Asian grocery stores.
Make-Ahead and StorageIn the unlikely event that there are leftovers, store them in an airtight container in the fridge for up to three days.
Serious Eats / Michelle Yip
Serious Eats / Qi AiWe crave Chinese food often—and a lot of the times, we crave the authentic versions of it. Lucky for us (and for you!), we've got a wide-ranging list of our favorite Chinese recipes to make at home right now. Several of them are on the spicier, Sichunaese end of the spectrum, like mapo tofu and gong bao ji ding, but Genevieve's recipe for Macanese-style pork chop sandwiches and Lucas' claypot rice are new additions to our repertoire. If you're not seeing one of your favorites here, make sure to check our extensive archive of Chinese (and Chinese-American) recipes!
Macau Pork Chop SandwichSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis salty-sweet sandwich—featuring a tender, flavorful bone-in pork chop on a toasted, buttered pineapple bun—is a classic in Macau.
Extra-Flaky Scallion PancakesSerious Eats / Mateja Zvirotic AndrijanicThese dough for these pancakes are rolled out and layered with sesame oil and thinly sliced scallions twice over to create an abundance of rich, flaky layers. The pancakes are then fried in a skillet until nicely browned. If you're planning on cooking in the backyard, try grilling your scallion pancakes instead.
Fish-Fragrant Eggplants (Sichuan Braised Eggplant With Garlic, Ginger, and Chiles)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikNo fish here—this flavor-packed classic applies the garlic, ginger, and pickled chiles of Sichuan fish cookery to tender, fried eggplant.
Homemade Spicy Chili CrispSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltWe get it. You have a chili crisp problem, and premium brands of the stuff are pretty pricey. If you're perpetually running out, try making a large batch of this spicy, tingly, salty, crunchy, captivating chili condiment yourself.
Stir-Fried Choy Sum With Minced GarlicSerious Eats / Qi AiThis simple, classic side is our go-to accompaniment for wontons, meatier stir-fries, fried rice, and more. You can also use this recipe as a template for other sturdier greens, like gail lan, bok choy, tatsoi, and Malabar spinach.
Gong Bao Ji Ding (Sichuan Kung Pao Chicken)Serious Eats / Liz VoltzThis is a near-perfect weeknight dish based on the version from Chengdu. Our takeout-style kung pao chicken is also worth a look. If you have a little more time to spare, check out Kenji's "real deal" recipe, which involves briefly marinating the chicken and doubles down on the chiles and Sichuan peppercorns.
Chinese Cold Noodle Salad with Sesame DressingSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezSesame noodles are a Chinese-American takeout classic. Here, Lucas skips the rinsing step and chills the noodles in the refrigerator. The starches left on the surface of the noodles holds on to the toasted sesame dressing much better.
Cantonese Clay Pot RiceSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis comforting meal of rice steamed and crisped within a Cantonese clay pot is a favorite in Hong Kong, where it’s served with an assortment of toppings. Here, Lucas calls for a simple combination of sliced Chinese sausage and gai lan. Be sure to check out his recipe for velveted chicken and mushroom clay pot rice, or Chinese meatloaf-topped clay pot rice.
Chinese Scrambled Eggs With TomatoSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis staple of Chinese home cooking is deeply comforting and comes together very quickly. We like to whip it up for breakfast or a last-minute lunch.
Dim Sum–Style Steamed Pork Ribs With Fermented Black BeansSerious Eats / Andrew ValantineA mineral bath and deep tissue massage makes these ribs extra tender. After their spa treatment, a long bath in a marinade of fermented black beans, Shaoxing wine, and sesame oil gives the ribs a wonderful savoriness.
Hong Kong-Style French ToastSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezWith a custardy interior that oozes peanut butter and a generous drizzle of condensed milk, this is the breakfast of champions.
Mapo TofuSerious Eats / Melissa HomThis traditional Sichuan dish of silken tofu and ground beef is packed with málà flavor from fermented chili bean paste and Sichuan peppercorns.
Pork and Chive DumplingsSerious Eats / Qi AiAn equal proportion by weight of rich, fatty ground pork and Chinese chives goes into these classic homestyle dumplings. This recipe makes enough for a small get together, or freeze half for your future self to enjoy on a rushed weeknight.
Easy Fried RiceSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergUse fresh or leftover white rice for this easy, vegetable-studded fried rice. We fry the grains in batches and season lightly for perfect texture and flavor.
Toothpick LambSerious Eats / Debbie WolfeThese morsels of marinated lamb are deep-fried, stir-fried with garlic, whole chiles, and cilantro and then dusted with a mixture of ground chiles, cumin, sesame seeds, Sichuan peppercorns, and salt. Perfect for serving with beer—or any cold beverage, really.
Suanla Chaoshou (Sichuan-Style Wontons in Hot and Sour Vinegar and Chili Oil Sauce)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltCoated in an intensely aromatic sauce made with vinegar, garlic, and roasted chili oil, these wontons are easy to make and even easier to eat.
Shanghainese Sticky Red-Cooked Pork BellySerious Eats / Fiona ReillyThis recipe features sweet and savory cubes of meltingly tender meat in an aromatic sauce.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeI am a creature of habit: When I find something I love, I stick with it and I put it on repeat. That means rewatching Gilmore Girls, reading the same Joshua Rothman New Yorker essay every time I have an existential crisis, and making air-fryer broccoli three (okay, maybe five) times a week. What can I say? Air-fryer broccoli ticks all the boxes: It’s easy, delicious, nutritious, and quick, taking just three minutes to prep and 10 minutes to cook. Gone are the days when I had to wait for my oven to preheat for at least 20 minutes before roasting broccoli for another 20 minutes, for an interminable total of 40 minutes before I could get it on the table.
Now, I just press a few buttons, wait a minute or two, and my air fryer is ready to go. There’s a reason why the appliance is such a powerhouse: It’s basically a tiny convection oven that circulates air extremely efficiently, which is why it’s so great at quickly and perfectly roasting broccoli. Though preparing the vegetable in your air fryer isn’t complicated, there are a few tips and tricks that can help you make flavorful broccoli that’s both crisp and tender. Here’s what you need to know.
Tips for Making Excellent Air-Fryer BroccoliCut the broccoli into evenly sized florets. Keeping all the florets 1 1/2 to 2 inches in size creates more surface area for crisping, while also allowing for more uniform cooking.
Keep moisture to a minimum. Excess water leftover from washing your broccoli can cause it to steam instead of roast, resulting in soggy vegetables, so be sure to dry your broccoli well before putting it in the air fryer. (I rinse my broccoli florets under cold running water, then dry them on a baking sheet lined with a clean dish towel or paper towels.) Similarly, overcrowding the florets can trap moisture and make it difficult for air to circulate, preventing the broccoli from crisping up, so cook the broccoli in small batches to let the air flow freely.
Start at a high temperature. As Kenji wrote in his easy roasted broccoli recipe, cooking the vegetable at a high temperature triggers the Maillard reaction—a series of chemical reactions that takes place when heat transforms proteins and sugars into complex (and delicious) flavors, aromas, and colors. A high temperature also helps the vegetable caramelize, which produces sweet, nutty flavors as well as a crispness on the outside that contrasts beautifully with the tender interiors of the florets. Starting the broccoli at 400ºF (205ºC) and then reducing the temperature to 340ºF (170ºC) after it’s had a chance to crisp produces florets with just the right amount of char, while ensuring the insides are just soft enough.
Serve the broccoli simply or dress it up. While crispy air-fryer broccoli is fantastic with nothing more than a sprinkle of salt and the olive oil it’s cooked in, there are many great ways to gussy it up, such as tossing theraw florets in a fragrant mixture of soy sauce and ginger before cooking or spooning chili crisp over the cooked broccoli. See the Variations section below the recipe for more ideas on dressing up your air-fryer broccoli. You can also incorporate the cooked broccoli into a quiche or omelet or top your pizza with it.
Personally? I like to pour it all into the bowl and shower it with a generous handful of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, fresh lemon zest, and plenty of freshly ground black pepper. But I love air fryer broccoli so much that I’d eat it every day—even on its own.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazePreheat a 6-quart air fryer to 400°F (205ºC) for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss broccoli with oil, salt, and pepper and toss to evenly coat. Pour broccoli into air fryer basket and cook until broccoli is still bright green but starting to char around edges, about 5 minutes. Remove basket from air fryer and shake to toss broccoli florets. Return to air fryer and decrease temperature to 340°F (170ºC). Cook until broccoli is crisp-tender, about 3 more minutes. Remove and transfer broccoli to a serving platter or plates.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeVariations Chili Crisp: Spoon 2 tablespoons chili crisp over air-fried broccoli, tossing to evenly coat, and serve. * “Caesared” Bread Crumbs: In a small nonstick skillet, melt 1 tablespoon (14g) salted butter over medium-low heat. Add 1/4 cup plain dried bread crumbs and, using a flexible spatula, toss to coat. Add 1 teaspoon anchovy paste and 1/2 teaspoon grated garlic (about 1 small clove) to hot bread crumbs and stir constantly until bread crumbs are golden brown, about 3 minutes. Sprinkle over broccoli and top with 1 teaspoon fresh lemon zest and 1 tablespoon Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely shredded on a microplane. * Sesame-Ginger: In a large bowl, toss broccoli florets with 2 tablespoons (30ml) canola oil, 1 tablespoon (15ml) tamari, and 1 tablespoon finely chopped ginger. Air fry as directed. Garnish with 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds before serving. * Smoked Almonds and Cheddar: Top air-fried broccoli with 2 tablespoons chopped smoked almonds and 1/2 ounce (14g) extra-sharp cheddar cheese, shredded on the large holes of a box grater. * Miso-Butter:* In a large bowl,whisk together 1 tablespoon (14g) melted unsalted butter, 1 tablespoon white miso paste, 2 teaspoons unseasoned rice vinegar, 1 1/2 teaspoons maple syrup, and 1 tablespoon (15ml) water until well-combined. Add hot air-fried broccoli and toss to coat.
Special Equipment6-quart air fryer
Make-Ahead and StorageBroccoli crowns can be chopped into florets and refrigerated in a zip-top bag or airtight container up to 3 days before cooking.
Air-fried broccoli can be made up to 4 in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container. Reheat in a microwave or air fryer preheated to 340ºF (170ºC) until warm.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWarning*: This technique only works with aspirin-free Alka-Seltzer, which is sold under the Alka-Seltzer Gold label. The ingredient list should only contain anhydrous citric acid, potassium bicarbonate, and sodium bicarbonate. Do not, under any circumstances, use Alka-Seltzer with aspirin in this recipe: The presence of aspirin could pose extremely serious health risks to anyone who consumes it in this cheese sauce and must be avoided.***
What if I told you that there's a way to make a cheese sauce as smooth and creamy as a jar of Velveeta from just about any melting cheese with nothing more than a single innocuous ingredient that is possibly already in your medicine cabinet. That's right: no emulsifying salts that require a special order, no futzing with cornstarch and evaporated milk, and no floury roux. The secret ingredient is Aspirin-Free Alka-Seltzer and today is the day that I reveal its cheese-sauce-making superpower to the world. It's been hiding in plain sight all along, each tablet formulated with a few basic ingredients that drive a chemical reaction that, yes, can treat indigestion, but—as will be clear once you understand the science—are just as good at making the elusive perfect cheese sauce for nachos and mac and cheese.
This is life-changing stuff. Ready to learn how and why?
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhy a Smooth and Creamy Cheese Sauce Is So Hard to MakeTake a slice of good unprocessed melting cheese like Swiss, mozzarella, provolone, or cheddar and put it between bread slices. Grill it and the cheese melts perfectly, creating a rich, gooey, delicious treat. But when you try to make a cheese sauce by heating those same cheeses with water, you get a broken, clumpy mess instead of a glossy and smooth sauce. Why is that?
Natural cheeses don't mix well with water when heated, instead separating into tight little cheesy clumps and pools of oil and water. This is a natural consequence of cheesemaking: To make cheese, enzymes like rennet or acids like lemon juice are added to milk, causing the proteins in the milk to coagulate into largely insoluble, calcium-rich curds that can be separated from the liquid whey and turned into cheese.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe word "insoluble" is key here—the milk proteins that have formed those curds do not want to dissolve back into water. So how can we expect them to blend smoothly with water again when it comes time to make a cheese sauce? The answer is, we can't, not without some help to solve the problem, at least. The helper in this case is some kind of emulsifier, such as starches like flour or emulsifying salts like sodium citrate.
How Emulsifying Salts Like Sodium Citrate Make Smooth and Creamy Cheese Sauce PossibleThink of sodium citrate like a smooth operator: It has a strong affinity to calcium, and, when added to melting cheese, it can draw out calcium and swap it with sodium ions to form sodium caseinate. Sodium caseinate happens to be the most soluble form of caseinate, so once this switch happens, the protein in the cheese is able to both soak up more water and disperse well in it, trapping fat, and leading to a more stable emulsion. The more calcium the sodium citrate is able to swap, the better the emulsion works.
This is how you get that dreamy, creamy cheese sauce we all want. In fact, this is how processed cheeses like American cheese are made: Emulsifying salts are added, ensuring absolutely perfect melting no matter what.
The only problem with American cheese is it isn't the best in the flavor department. If you want to use your favorite cheese and still get a sauce as smooth as what American cheese is capable of, you need to add the sodium citrate yourself. Of course that means making the effort to buy and stock sodium citrate in your pantry—not impossible in this day of online ordering, but it's not exactly the kind of stuff you can pick up at your local Walmart.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezKnow what you can buy at your local Walmart? Aspirin-free Alka-Seltzer. Maybe you don't even need to buy it, maybe you already have it—I wouldn't be surprised if the ideal reader of this article is also a prime Alka-Seltzer customer…this is rich food, after all.
The Cheese-Making Magic of Alka-Seltzer, ExplainedWhen you read the ingredients on a box of non-aspirin Alka-Seltzer, you'll see three main ingredients: sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, and anhydrous citric acid. You may also see some flavorings and other non-active ingredients. If you see aspirin in the ingredients, absolutely do not use the Alka-Seltzer for this culinary purpose (see warning at the top of this article).
Let's break down what those three active ingredients are:
- Sodium bicarbonate is just baking soda by its chemical name. It's alkaline, meaning it has a high pH, and reacts with acids to create carbon dioxide, which is why it is an effective leavening agent. We use it all the time in the kitchen, there is nothing to worry about there.
- Potassium bicarbonate is another alkaline ingredient with common culinary uses. Like sodium bicarbonate, it can be used as a chemical leavener, and it is also a common ingredient in club soda. Once again, no worries, this is safe stuff.
- Anhydrous citric acid is a form of the same kind of acid that makes lemons and limes naturally sour. "Anhydrous" just means the substance is in a dry form. The acid is an important part of the formulation of Alka-Seltzer for the same reason acids in baking necessary to make alkaline leaveners like baking soda work: They react with each other to form carbon dioxide gas.
But let's take a closer look at the chemical reaction between citric acid and one of those alkaline ingredients, because the resulting carbon dioxide is just one of a few products, and as far as our cheesemaking interests go, it's not the important one. When you drop an Alka-Seltzer tablet into water, here's what happens:
3NaHCO3 + C6H8O7 ---> 3CO2 + 3H2O + Na3C6H5O7Sodium bicarbonate + citric acid = carbon dioxide + water + sodium citrate
Once added to water, Alka-Seltzer quickly starts bubbling because it makes carbon dioxide gas. The cool part is, the entire reaction happens without needing any extra heat (unlike some other leaveners…cough! baking powder…cough!).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAnd guess what? The salt made during this reaction is our beloved sodium citrate! See, you don't have to hunt down sodium citrate, you can just make it via the magic of an Alka-Seltzer tablet and some water.
Using Alka-Seltzer to Make Cheese SauceThis recipe is really easy, you don't even need a saucepan. Just use a microwave and a microwave-safe bowl. Put an original flavored aspirin-free Alka-Seltzer tablet in water —don't use lime or other flavors, as they'll affect the cheese sauce taste. Let the fizz settle, which you can do ahead of time (we're after the resulting salt, not the bubbles). If you rush and add cheese before it's done fizzing, you'll get foamy cheese, which isn't as tasty as smooth sauce.
Now, add unsalted butter, which helps balance the sodium from the sodium citrate and microwave until the butter melts.
After that, add a shredded melting cheese—you know, cheeses like cheddar, Gruyere, Swiss, provolone, Jack, that kind of stuff (not soft-rind cheese like brie, and not aged cheese like Parmigiano-Reggiano). This can be cheese you shredded yourself, or a pre-shredded cheese. (Pre-shredded cheeses often have anti-caking agents like tapioca starch in them; those anti-caking starches will further enhance the creamy texture of the sauce, but the recipe works with or without them.) Microwave in 30-second intervals until the sauce is hot and bubbly. It may seem runny at first, but it'll thicken quickly as it cools.
Finally, add any flavorings you may want, like cayenne, mustard, milk powder, jalapeños, or black pepper. After that, your sauce is ready for nachos, mac and cheese, or anything else.
And if you get a nasty case of heartburn, well, you're in luck, because you already have the Alka-Seltzer ready and waiting.
In a microwave-safe bowl, stir together water and Alka-Seltzer. Let stand until fizzing stops, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd butter to the bowl and microwave until the butter is melted, about 30 seconds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd the shredded cheese to the bowl. Microwave in 30-second increments until cheese is melted and bubbly.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing a fork or small whisk, stir until the sauce is smooth, adding any optional flavorings if desired. Let stand until perfectly thickened, 1 to 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentMicrowave and microwave-safe bowl
NotesIt is essential that you use non-aspirin Alka-Seltzer, which is often sold under the Alka-Seltzer Gold label. Do not—we repeat: DO NOT—make this cheese sauce with Alka-Seltzer with aspirin; doing so could pose a significant health risk, as aspirin is a potent medicine with potentially dangerous side effects,the dosage would be particularly unsafe in this sauce, and heating the aspirin can increase its potency even more. We also recommend reading the full Alka-Seltzer ingredient list just in case it contains anything you or a diner may be specifically allergic to.
This sauce can also be made on stove top: In a saucepan, combine water with Alka-Seltzer and let stand until fizzing ceases. Add butter and heat over medium heat until melted, then whisk in shredded cheese until fully melted and a smooth sauce has formed. Season with flavorings of choice, let cool slightly, then use as desired.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe Alka-Seltzer can be dissolved in the water up to 1 hour ahead.
Serious Eats / Marcus MillanWading through the wide world of espresso at home can be overwhelming. There are coffee scales, espresso grinders, knock boxes, and even water filters to explore as you fine-tune your process. But more important than anything else, you’ll need a good espresso machine. The ideal at-home espresso machine should be user-friendly, consistent, and capable of producing a high-quality espresso shot with little fuss.
It might seem impossible for one espresso machine to achieve all of that without costing you thousands of dollars, but the Breville Bambino Plus ticks off all of the boxes, and more, making it our top pick since we first started reviewing espresso machines in 2021. Better yet, it’s on sale for 20% off, but only for a limited time.
Breville Bambino Plus Espresso MachineAmazonDuring our test of 22 espresso machines, the Breville Bambino Plus held its own against models twice its size, and as a compact machine (7.6 inches by 12.5 inches by 12.2 inches), it doesn’t take up too much counter space. It was quick to heat — in fact, it could get water up to brewing temperature in just three seconds.. Plus, once it was at temperature, its precise temperature control feature kept water at a consistent 200ºF for every shot we pulled.
For a machine that pulled impressive, cafe-quality espresso pulls throughout our tests, it was easy to use thanks to its simple, intuitive interface (no fiddling around with knobs and levers!). Plus, it has an automatic steam wand that makes silky smooth milk at three different temperature and foam level options.
Its excellent espresso performance combined with its user-friendly design makes the Breville Bambino Plus an ideal home espresso option for beginners and enthusiasts alike. Breville espresso machines rarely go on sale, so grab it for $100 off while you can.
FAQsHow do I get started with making espresso at home?Our espresso 101 guide goes through all the essential tools, terms, and techniques for hitting the ground running on your espresso journey.
How do I clean a Breville Bambino Plus?On the day-to-day, you should purge and wipe the steam wand after every use, flush the machine’s group head to avoid the buildup of coffee grounds, and clean the portafilter and basket. The Breville Bambino Plus also has helpful cleaning instructions printed on the back of its removable water reservoir.
What espresso tool upgrades should I make?Once you’ve got the essentials down, there are a few ways to finesse your espresso process even further. Our guide in how to get the most out of your espresso machine covers our upgrade recommendations for portafilters, tampers, scales, and even water.
What beans should I use with an espresso machine?While you can use regular coffee beans, there are espresso blends designed specifically for brewing balanced shots.
Why We’re The Experts* An Uong is a Commerce Writer for Serious Eats and Food & Wine. * An is married to an ex-barista who’s talked her ear off about all things related to espresso machines and espresso pulling. * We’ve tested espresso machines for years, and the Breville Bambino Plus continues to be our favorite semi-automatic, small model, and even bested other Breville models.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFrench sauces are a lot like the pantheon of ancient Greek gods. There are the major ones, biggies like bechamel and hollandaise, Zeus and Hera, and below them the hierarchy descends. But that hierarchy doesn't indicate absolute superiority in all senses—I'd rather hang out with Dionysus and Pan over Zeus and Hera any day. I think, for example, we'd all agree that we'd be better off if Irene, goddess of peace, got a bit more of the world's attention. And if we're talking sauces, I'd argue gribiche is ready for a much bigger spotlight.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezGribiche is a cold sauce in the family of mayonnaise-based sauces. Its closest cousin is tartar sauce, with which it shares many ingredients, from the pickles and capers to a healthy dose of fresh herbs. If I had to describe it, I might say gribiche is what tartar sauce would look like after returning from a holiday on the French riviera, tinged with a deeper golden hue and more overtly Mediterranean vibe. Gribiche is eggier, with a pronounced caper flavor and the anisey aroma of herbs like tarragon and chervil alongside the fresh greenery of parsley.
It's beautiful with or on just about anything: fish (hot or cold), poached meats (especially off-cuts like tongue and tête de veau, the classic quivering slab of poached veal's head), vegetables (poached asparagus are divine dipped in it), and as a condiment for fries or spread mayo-like on a sandwich.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAside from its flavor differences with tartar sauce, gribiche has one other unique calling card. Unlike tartar and so many other mayo-derived sauces, gribiche is made from hard-cooked, not raw, yolks. This fact is significant, and has major consequences for how the sauce is made. There's a lot to unpack there, which I'll do in the next section, but let's get familiar with one basic detail: Sometimes gribiche is served emulsified like mayo and sometimes it's served broken, more like an oily vinaigrette.
All Yolks Aside: The Consequences and Challenges of Gribiche's Cooked-Yolk BaseA few weeks ago I was shopping at a food market in New York City when I ran into an old boss of mine, the French chef Didier Virot. It was perfect timing, because I was in the process of developing this recipe and was confused about the whole broken-versus-emulsified thing that I was seeing across a wide array of recipes for gribiche. Much of what I know about classic and modern French cooking I learned while working for Didier at one of his former French restaurants many years ago, and Didier's cooking pedigree is as impressive as it gets: He worked under the legendary French chef Michel Bras and ran Jean-Georges Vongerichten's flagship restaurant Jean-Georges for several years.
So I turned the question to him, asking where he stood on the whole broken/unbroken thing. He told me he generally preferred the sauce emulsified as a mayo, but appreciated how it worked when broken in some contexts, like on a serving of tête de veau. Then he asked me why I didn't just teach Serious Eats readers how to make it both ways. So that's what I've done. Here in this headnote and in the recipe below I will explain both how and, perhaps more importantly, why gribiche takes these two forms.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLet's make one thing clear: As far as I can tell, gribiche was originally meant to be an emulsified cold sauce, often described in classic French sources as a derivative of mayo, and mayo is by definition not a broken sauce. I can tell you that as a dip for things like asparagus, it works better in that emulsified form. But the broken version has become common enough that it's worth explaining as well, and would be a welcome addition on many plates.
Why did this happen with gribiche specifically? Almost certainly the culprit is those cooked yolks. You see, when you cook egg yolks, you reduce their emulsifying power, meaning sauce gribiche made with hard-cooked yolks, as it's meant to be, is much more prone to breaking. As many a wise person has said before, If you can't beat 'em, break 'em, and that's why broken gribiche has earned recognition not as a failed gribiche, but an acceptable form of it.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOne obvious question one might ask is: Why use cooked yolks at all? Gribiche's specific origins are unclear so there's no way to get an answer from whoever first created it, but I can make a guess: The cooked yolks fundamentally alter the sauce. It's creamier, the flavor is different in exactly the way a hard-cooked yolk tastes eggier and vaguely more sulphurous (in a good way!) than a raw one.
Perhaps the original intention was to make an eggier sauce, and one logical way to do that was to cook the yolks to enhance that egginess. Those cooked yolks not only taste eggier, but you can also pack more of them into the sauce precisely because they don't emulsify as well—you literally need more of them. Just consider a classic mayo, in which a single raw egg yolk can easily emulsify a cup of oil and often much more, whereas gribiche needs something like three cooked yolks just to stand a chance at holding a mere cup of oil in a stable emulsion.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCooking the eggs also offers the opportunity to use the whites differently. In a mayo, the whites are often just whisked in with the yolk, disappearing into the finished sauce. In gribiche, the whites are cooked solid, and are then diced or julienned and stirred into the sauce. This creates a whole different textural dimension while upping the perceived egginess even more.
As you can see, the cooked yolks of gribiche are both one of its defining qualities and also one of its trickiest technical aspects. The good news is that enough cooks have broken gribiche enough times that there's something of a collective agreement to not be upset about that. With this acknowledgement comes tremendous freedom, and gribiche becomes one of those wonderful culinary creations in which you have lots of latitude to change it up while still being able to call it by its name with a straight face.
The Many Faces of Sauce GribicheBy now we've established that gribiche can come in both emulsified and broken forms, and while emulsified is the more classic, broken is an acceptable alternative. But gribiche is even more variable than that. I was recently in Paris and made a point of eating gribiche every time I saw it on a menu. It was never the same twice.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAt one fancier brasserie, I was served gribiche that was refined and delicate, with muted notes of Dijon, pickle, caper, and herb (that one came with a wonderful little crispy torpedo of fried pig's head). I was also served a gribiche at a bouillon—a type of old-school eating hall featuring (often) slapdash versions of French brasserie fare at low prices that has become trendy in recent years—that seemed like they'd just grabbed a bucket of mayo and stirred a few bits of cornichon and a memory of tarragon into it. At a popular sandwich shop, I had a fried chicken cutlet on a baguette with gribiche as the condiment, and that gribiche was broken, allowing it to soak into the bread instead of just ride on the surface.
In my recipe below, I offer tips on making both an emulsified and a broken gribiche. To lean into the more rustic nature of the broken one (rustic in the sense that the sauce is more likely to break for people with less technical proficiency in the kitchen and thus doesn't reflect the work of a precise hand), I added a much more crudely diced array of the solid flavorings. In the emulsified version, on the other hand, I show a truly fine mince of the solids. There's no absolutely right or wrong way to do it.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAnd while my recipe offers set quantities for all the ingredients, you should know that you have liberty there too. If you don't want a sauce quite so chock full of pickles and capers and egg white, simply add less! Add less Dijon if you don't want as much of a piquant punch, or more if you do. Really have fun with it, the sauce is yours to play with.
The Secret to Not Breaking the SauceLet's say you want to make gribiche and you're dead-set on it not breaking. What to do? Well, I can tell you firsthand that with care it is absolutely possible to make an emulsified gribiche with hard-boiled egg yolks. Simply process or whisk the yolks with vinegar and mustard until they have fully become a paste with no firm yolky lumps left and then incorporate the oil very slowly while whisking or processing constantly. Bit by bit, without going too fast, you will get there.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBut you know me and you know this site! We're not the kind of place that just leaves you with advice like that if we can help it. I've seen tricks such as adding a single raw yolk to the cooked ones, but I have what I think is an even better one: Just don't cook the yolks hard-hard. Instead of making hard-boiled eggs, you can make semi-jammy yolks by cooking the eggs just a couple minutes shorter (nine minutes in my recipe for semi-jammy versus 11 for fully firm yolks). This tiny difference is just enough to keep a bit of the yolks' original emulsifying power intact, while still yielding solid whites and a cooked yolk flavor.
It's just a tiny cheat, a subtle nudge to get the eggs to a place where you're not quite as disadvantaged when trying to stick the emulsified landing.
Now it's your turn. Pick between emulsified or broken as a goal, decide on just how strong or reserved you want your flavors to be, settle on how finely you're willing to mince everything. Then get gribiching, because this sauce deserves to be spread all over your kitchen.
Bring 3 quarts (2.8L) water to a boil in a large pot and prepare an ice bath. Carefully lower eggs into pot and continue to boil for 30 seconds. Cover tightly, reduce heat to low (water should maintain a bare simmer), and continue cooking for 9 minutes for jammy yolks or 11 minutes for hard-cooked yolks (see headnote above for guidance on how the degree of yolk doneness can affect the sauce). Immediately transfer eggs to ice water and allow to cool for at least 15 minutes, then peel under cool running water. Halve eggs lengthwise and scoop yolks into a medium mixing bowl, blender, or food processor. Finely dice egg whites.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd vinegar, mustard, and a pinch of salt and pepper to the egg yolks. Whisk, blend, or process until yolks are almost entirely combined with the other ingredients and very few if any yolky lumps remain. While continuously whisking or blending, slowly drizzle in oil in a thin, steady stream. The sauce should emulsify, but it may break more easily with hard-cooked yolks (see headnote above on why you may or may not want this); you can also whisk less vigorously and/or add the oil much faster to deliberately create a broken sauce.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezStir in cornichons, capers, herbs, and egg whites until well combined. Season with additional salt and pepper, if desired, then serve or refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to use.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNotesChervil, an herb with delicate lacy fronds and a subtle anise flavor, is a very difficult herb to find in US markets. It is fine to omit it and use only parsley and tarragon instead. You can also use just parsley if you can't find tarragon (I've done it, it works!), but that will eliminate one essential flavor from the sauce.
Make-Ahead and StorageSauce gribiche can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days.
Serious Eats ; Getty Images/Johner ImagesSerious Eats ; Getty Images/Johner ImagesThis website isn’t exactly known for shortcuts, but every now and then, someone on this team offers up a tip in passing that not only makes life (and cooking!) much, much easier, but it also just…makes sense. And while we’re in the business of making great food, we’re certainly not in the business of gatekeeping. So when our culinary editor shared what she does every week to make getting meals together during the week a breeze, we were eager to pass on the knowledge.
For Genevieve, juicing about five or six lemons at the beginning of any given week saves her loads of time later on. She juices enough to keep a jar of it on hand—usually repurposing a 12-ounce. Bonne Maman jar. However, the amount of juice you get will depend on the size of your lemons. And while the flavor of the resulting lemon juice is good for about five days, she finds that it never lasts longer than that because she uses it so often.
So many recipes call for one teaspoon or tablespoon of lemon juice at a time, and using this method is so much more efficient than juicing a whole lemon every time you need just a little bit of juice. “If I have a jar of lemon juice, I can make salad dressing, chicken piccata, spaghetti al limone, Reem's garlic lemon sauce,” she says; the sauce is a combination of garlic, lemon juice, chile, salt, and cumin. You can even toss it on your vegetables as a finishing touch for some brightness—the list really does go on.
Our commerce editor Grace also chimed in saying she uses the same hack but prefers freezing the lemon juice in ice cube trays. Freezing the liquid makes it last longer, while turning it into ice cubes makes it easy to take out small amounts as needed. The number of lemons you will need to fill up an ice cube tray will depend on both the size of your citrus and the volume of your ice cube tray. When ready to use, pop out however many cubes you want and place them in a bowl or a jar to thaw in the fridge until liquid. Because of the thawing time, this method requires just a little more planning ahead, but will still save you time nonetheless.
Genevieve often turns to the freezing method to use up lemons before she goes out of town. However, she prefers to freeze the liquid in jars and then thaw overnight when she’s ready to use it. She notes that whatever method you like to use for freezing, the juice will keep its flavor for about three months.
For Genevieve, this trick is a no-brainer that she now can’t live without. “I started doing it when I noticed some lemons were starting to look sad, and I was like, ‘actually this is a good idea,’” she says. It’s also a great way to free up space in your fridge. So maybe you don’t always come to this website expecting a quick tip, but today is a new day!
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBaked, roasted, braised, and fried chicken are inarguably delicious. Poaching, by comparison, can seem bland. And yet, when done well, poached chicken is unsurpassed in its tender texture, juiciness, and pristine flavor. While you can—and should—poach any part of the bird, we find that the gentle, wet cooking method works particularly well for breasts, so that's what this recipe focuses on. It's a method that is highly regarded in some cuisines (Chinese, just to name one), and deserves far more respect and attention than it tends to get here in the United States.
The key to great poached chicken, though, is to cook it such that the meat remains absolutely tender and juicy throughout. Too often, chicken poaching recipes lead to the opposite result, one in which the chicken comes out overcooked, dry, and stringy despite the wet cooking medium. The question, then, is how to devise a chicken poaching method that is repeatable, foolproof, and free of the guesswork and imprecision that troubles so many of the common approaches?
Poaching Precision: Why Many Poaching Methods Don't Work WellMost recipes for poached chicken have you add the breasts to simmering or boiling liquid, often water with some aromatics added. One of the most common methods tells you to remove the pot from the heat as soon as the chicken goes into it, then let it stand for 30 or 40 minutes until the chicken is cooked through. I don't love that lack of precision—different-sized chicken breasts will cook in different times, and the varying ratio of water to chicken will change the rate at which the water cools, throwing off cooking times even more. You can too easily end up with chicken that is overcooked or undercooked, and you won't even know it until you cut into the breast.
Another common method has you hold the chicken at a simmer until it is fully cooked through. This eliminates the risk of serving undercooked chicken, but it increases the risk of overcooking. That's because a simmer is quite a bit hotter—just under water's boiling point of 212°F (100°C)—than the ideal temperature of chicken breast meat, which is closer to about 155°F (68°C).
This made me wonder whether there wasn't a better way to poach chicken, one that cooks it more gently from start to finish, ensuring doneness without over-doneness. I started wondering whether I couldn't improve upon the chicken approach using a technique I've seen and used before with seafood: cold-start poaching. After all, that's more or less what chicken breast cooked sous vide is, except that with sous vide, the chicken is in a plastic bag.
Cold-Start vs. Conventional PoachingTo test it out, I cooked two bone-in, skin-on chicken breast halves separately in two pots of water that I'd seasoned with salt and flavored with scallion and ginger. I dropped one of them into boiling water, then maintained the simmer until the thickest part of the chicken had reached 150°F (65°C) on an instant-read thermometer. I added the other to the water while it was still cold, then brought the water up to about 150°F and cooked it until the inside of the chicken had reached the same final temperature; I adjusted the heat to maintain the water's temperature, but wasn't too strict about it—it sometimes hovered up around 160°F (61°C), or even a little higher.
Straight from the water, the differences were visible. The chicken cooked in the simmering water had skin that retracted more, while the gently cooked cold-start chicken retained a much more even covering of skin. I could also feel by pressing on the flesh that the simmered chicken was tighter and firmer to the touch than the cold-start poached chicken.
Once sliced, the exposed meat revealed similar results, with the lower-temp sample much tenderer and juicier than the simmered one, though the photos here don't do a good job of conveying that visually. In person, there was no question about which was better.
The downside of the lower-temp method, of course, is that it takes longer due to the lower cooking temperature. My chicken breast halves weighed three-quarters of a pound each, and at that weight, the simmered one cooked in 30 minutes (including the time it took to bring the water to a boil), while the low-temperature one was just a little shy of one hour when it was ready—not a terribly long time if you're prepping other things for dinner while it gradually cooks, but not ideal if you're in a rush.
It's important to note, though, that the times can be quite variable here, dependent on both the average temperature at which you're able to hold your liquid and also the mass and thickness of your chicken breasts as well as whether they are bone-in or not. I've since had chicken breasts poach in about 35 minutes using the cold-start method simply because they were slightly smaller.
A Middle Ground for Quicker ResultsYou can split the difference, raising the poaching temperature to about 170°F (77°C), which is still lower than boiling/simmering water, but not quite as low as 150°F. That shaves some valuable minutes off, while still producing a tenderer piece of meat than simmering does.
I recommend you give it a try. After all, poached chicken not only yields delicious meat that's a blank canvas for so many recipes, but also a flavorful broth that can be sipped or saved for future recipes.
In a large saucepan, combine water and salt, stirring to dissolve salt. Add chicken and aromatics and set over medium-high heat until water temperature reaches between 150 and 160°F on an instant-read thermometer; adjust heat to maintain water temperature in the 150–160°F range. (It's okay if the temperature bounces around a little, but try to keep it above 150 and below 170°F.) Cook until thickest part of chicken registers 150°F on an instant-read thermometer, about 30 minutes to 1 hour (timing is difficult to estimate as it is heavily influenced by both the temperature at which you're able to hold the poaching liquid and also the size of the chicken breast used). Remove chicken from broth and let cool. Strain broth through a fine-mesh strainer.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRefrigerate chicken either submerged in cooled broth or the two components separately in airtight containers until ready to use as desired.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNotesThere's no need to be precise with the aromatics, though for this quantity of chicken, roughly one medium or large onion, one medium or large carrot, one or two celery ribs, and a few cloves of garlic , and a few parsley sprigs would be an appropriate amount. You can use as many or as few aromatics as you like: only onion and garlic, for example, in which case you might want to use two or three onions and a few more cloves of garlic. Another approach could be to use only scallion and ginger if the chicken is intended for Asian dishes where that flavor profile might be a better match. There are no hard rules, though—just use your judgement and follow your preferences.
Special EquipmentInstant-read thermometer, fine-mesh strainer
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezYou don’t need me to sit here and tell you why butter is good and important, do you? I don’t have the energy, you don’t have the time, and we all already have 17 sticks of the stuff waiting for us when we get home. I don’t mean to imply I—or you—get home from a very exhausting day and nibble through a butter bar or 17 butter bars just to feel something, but should that be the case, you know deeply why butter is good and important…and why it’s so important to stock yourself up with good butter.
And so, as we are wont to do, the SE team has pulled together 11brands ofunsalted butter that you're likely to find in your local supermarket, and methodically, empirically, scientifically! tasted its way through them all in a quest to identify the very best. And we loved every minute of doing it!
The Contenders* Finlandia Butter Imported Unsalted * Vermont Creamery Cultured Unsalted Butter * Land O Lakes Unsalted Butter * Kerrygold Pure Irish Butter, Unsalted * Beurre D'Isigny French AOP Unsalted Butter * Organic Valley Unsalted Cultured Butter * 365 Butter, Unsalted * Vital Farms Unsalted Butter * Horizon Organic Unsalted Butter * Breakstone’s Unsalted Butter * Plugrà Unsalted
The CriteriaButter’s smell should be good. Suggestions of grass, cream, and far-away movie theaters are all nice things. Whiffs of oil, acid, and nearby movie theaters are significantly less nice. All the above applies to taste as well. Nature: good! Not nature: oy!
As for the color of butter, this team went in convinced they could identify Kerrygold from a rocket ship (in a good and comforting way) because of its signature yellow color, so we aimed to eliminate this variable from the taste test itself in order to determine what actually tasted the best. All this to say: I spent a very long time giggling in the test kitchen galley attempting to spread equal 1/4-inch layers of 11 different butters onto many, many salt-free saltines and then flipping them upside down into little communal bowls while Slacking “do NOT look through the holes of the saltines when tasting—this is a blind taste test!!” at my coworkers frantically. (Credit where it’s due: Our new senior social media editor Kelli very graciously helped me spread butter after she saw me struggling. Don’t worry—she did not see the key to the test and did ultimately test blind.) It turns out this team enjoys all colors of unsalted butter!
Also worth noting: There should be nary a hindrance to using an unsalted butter, whether that be for baking, for greasing, or for, well, buttering. You should be able to unwrap it, dip into, and spread it with ease. It shouldn’t take physical effort or dexterity to evenly coat your desired surface with the stuff. In order to gauge each sample’s true spreadability, we let the blocks sit out at room temperature for just over three hours. By the time we sampled, each of the 11 butters measured temps somewhere between 57-62 degrees.
This! wasn’t! easy! No, stop! It wasn’t! If you say you like butter so much, you try eating back-to-back pats of the stuff slapped onto unsalted crackers, all the while straining, straining your jaw to note all your helpfully pithy butter sample-specific nonsense. Then we’ll talk!!!
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Big PictureIf there’s one thing to take away from this tasting, it’s that there wasn’t a huge difference among any of these butters. Below, you’ll see a scored ranking and comments from tasters, and yes, technically, that’s how these butters scored. But we were all struck by the fact that it was pretty damn hard to tell any of these butters apart, aside from the faint tang of some of the cultured options. It’s worth noting that almost all of the scores hovered close to a very narrow one-point range.
Were there differences? Sure. Were they dramatic, life-altering, or at least butter-purchasing altering? No, not really. There were differences and some of us did feel that one or two brands truly rose above the rest, but they also all more or less tasted like…butter.
Take that as good news: Approach the butter section of the market free of the kind of decision-making anxiety that can freeze you in the cereal section for 43 minutes. You really can’t go wrong.
The RankingsVital Farms Unsalted Butter, 3.84/5A resounding round of applause for this guy right here. It smelled sweet, but not too sweet. It tasted grassy and milky, but not too grassy and milky. It ate smoothly, it wasn’t greasy, it evoked images of rolling hills and gentle background cows. It made a bad thing (see: old salt-free saltines) better. I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention this butter has the highest butterfat content of the group at a whopping 84 percent (the others ranged anywhere from 78.6 to 83).
Plugrà Unsalted, 3.6/5Megan described this offering as a “robust buttery butter,” which I adore as both a butter taste test descriptor and a tongue twister. Despite the room temperature-ness of it all,Plugrà held just firm enough. Each tester noted and approved of its solidity and distinct dairy flavor. Daniel wrote: “Good!” which, as always, felt important enough on its own to include. IYKYK, etc., etc.
Finlandia Butter Imported Unsalted, 3.6/5There comes a time in every Serious Eats when Genevieve identifies a sample as “like what I think ‘the thing we’re testing’ tastes like.” This one is what Genevieve thinks butter tastes like! It’s “lightly, lightly sweet” and the aroma was striking in, like, a pastoral way. This was another sturdy butter; Daniel noted its dense texture while tasting, and it held its own for long after the taste test concluded (See: It was seamless to handle and re-wrap). Finlandia specifies its unsalted butter runs between 82-83% butterfat, for what it’s worth.
Horizon Organic Unsalted Butter, 3.42/5A creamy yet neutral offering among the bunch. This was a departure from richness and hay bales butter and an introduction to “I am late, I have nothing in this fridge except butter, that’s OK, a buttered English muffin is one of life’s best things sometimes, this is gonna be great” butter. It was thinner, easier to spread than the above offerings, and smelled perfectly of dairy and dairy alone.
Breakstone’s Unsalted Butter, 3.33/5Three of our testers made a point of mentioning the smoooooothness of this butter. They noted how “smooth,” “really smooth,” and “very smooth” it was, to be specific! Megan also specified her approval of its “mild buttery, almost nutty smell,” while Genevieve appreciated the butter’s “plain and straightforwardness.”
Kerrygold Pure Irish Butter, Unsalted, 2.8/5...There comes a time in every Serious Eats taste test when each and every participant just knows they can pinpoint their real-world favorite. This group of Kerrygold enthusiasts went in confident and came out less so. They enjoyed Kerrygold, to be clear (its cultured tang, its funky aftertaste, its lovely texture), but they did not automatically or collectively pinpoint it as their favorite.
Land O Lakes Unsalted Butter, 2.75/5It is here we begin to enter “it’s not you, it’s me” territory. We can’t particularly tell you why we’re not ready to move in with Land O Lakes, but we appreciate it and can’t picture our lives without it, we swear. (Megan enjoyed its “good, sweet buttery smell.” Otherwise, the stuff was pleasantly neutral. And sometimes neutral is exactly what you want.)
Beurre D'Isigny French AOP Unsalted Butter, 2.75/5The experience of eating Beurre D'Isigny French AOP Unsalted Butter on a salt-free saltine, from what I can glean from my coworkers’ notes, is kinda like chugging movie popcorn butter and then eating the popcorn itself. It’s not a bad thing—you get to experience butter smell and taste, you get a nice little snack in the process; it’s all just very sensorily intense (gonna chalk that up to the lactic starter listed in the ingredients of this flavorful cultured butter).
365 Butter, Unsalted, 2.6/5At this point, our team was prepared for at least some kind of dairy-driven smell with each sample. This one didn’t smell like anything, which in some ways worked in its favor: “A surprisingly buttery flavor for a butter that has no discernible aroma,” Megan wrote. Daniel gave up on giving aroma notes about five samples ago, noting for this offering that he “literally couldn’t tell any of these apart.” Again, take it from me: High praise from the Serious Eats team. Kinda.
Vermont Creamery Cultured Unsalted Butter, 2.5/5Neutrality on neutrality on neutrality here. “Neutral, but good?” said Daniel. “Good for cooking when you want a more neutral flavor,” opined Megan. “Nothingness!” wrote Kelli, which, in a way, is a synonym for “neutralness,” yeah?
Organic Valley Unsalted Cultured Butter, 2.34/5Interestingly, Organic Valley Unsalted Cultured Butter has the same percentage butterfat as our top-ranked selection (84 percent). And yet…they did not taste, spread, or eat the same.
Our Tasting MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted completely blind and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample 1 first, while taster B will taste sample 6 first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria that vary from sample to sample. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation of actual results possible.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyWhen the weather permits, barbecued chicken on the grill is a staple in my weekly outdoor cooking routine. But on those occasions when I simply can’t run outside to grill, this air-fryer BBQ chicken recipe is a great indoor stand-in. With the help of the air fryer's powerful convection fan—because an air fryer, as you might already know, is just a supercharged mini convection oven—we're able to get juicy, lightly charred chicken pieces covered in a sticky sweet and tangy barbecue sauce, no grill required. It takes just five minutes of prep and cooks up in about 20 minutes so it’s great for busy weeknights. Here are a few tips for how to perfectly cook juicy BBQ chicken in your air fryer.
Tips for Great Air-Fryer Barbecue ChickenRub the chicken with a flavorful spice paste: Use the time while the air fryer is preheating to toss the chicken in a classic barbecue rub containing salt, brown sugar, smoked paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, dry mustard, and cayenne. The sugar in the blend helps to promote browning on the chicken in the air fryer to mimic a chargrilled effect, while the smoked paprika adds a nuanced smoky flavor. Make sure to rub the chicken thoroughly with the blend for an even coating.
Cook right after seasoning: Arguably my favorite part of cooking with my air fryer is how efficiently it heats up and cooks, saving me lots of time. With the goal of saving time in mind, we skip a lengthy dry brine session, and instead cook the chicken right after rubbing on the seasoning blend. While we at Serious Eats usually feel strongly that you should dry brine your chicken, in this specific recipe, we didn’t taste a huge difference between the chicken that was cooked right after seasoning versus chicken that was dry brined for up to 24 hours. This is probably because of the layers of flavor the potent spice blend and the thick and sweet barbecue sauce add to the chicken. We did find that letting the chicken rest in the refrigerator made it somewhat moister, but honestly, it was still juicy and flavorful without any refrigeration time before cooking. But don’t worry, for the dry brine lovers out there, we've included an optional refrigeration time for the chicken, if you have the time.
Preheat the air-fryer basket: When you take the time to barbecue chicken outside on the grill, you don’t just throw it on a cold grill. You fire it up and get it piping hot so the chicken starts cooking on contact with the grill grates to produce those lovely char marks that scream summer BBQ. The same approach is taken when cooking with the air fryer. Make sure to preheat the air fryer—it takes just five minutes—before nestling the chicken into the basket. The chicken should sizzle on contact with the basket. Also make sure to leave space between each piece of chicken to encourage proper air flow and even cooking.
Smother in a tangy sauce during the last few minutes of cooking: The sauce is arguably the best part of barbecue chicken. While there are so many great ways to make barbecue sauce, for this chicken our ideal sauce clings to the meat in a sticky glaze and has a balance of sweet, acidic, and smoky flavors, with just a touch of heat. Our version here uses ketchup and honey for sweetness, tangy apple cider vinegar and Worcestershire sauce to balance that sweetness, and smoky chipotle in adobo sauce and cumin to mimic the smoky flavor of barbecue chicken fresh off of the grill. If you like it extra smoky you can add a small amount of liquid smoke.
Adding sugary sauces too early in the cooking time can lead to a burnt mess, so for chicken that is perfectly smothered in a caramelized and lightly charred sauce, wait until the chicken pieces are partially cooked—for chicken thighs 160℉ and for chicken breasts about 125℉—before lacquering them with sauce, then flip and sauce both sides for even cooking. You’ll have glossy glazed barbecue chicken that looks and tastes pretty darn close to its grilled counterpart.
Choose your favorite chicken parts: We’ve written the main recipe here for chicken thighs with cooking times that work for both boneless, skinless or bone-in skin-on thighs. We love how the thighs' dark meat turns tender and juicy in the air fryer, but this recipe also works well with chicken breasts. For specific instructions on how to make it with breasts, see the variation below the main recipe.
Whether you cook chicken thighs or breasts, I recommend pairing this air-fryer BBQ chicken with a simple slaw and savory cornbread for a satisfying meal.
For the Sauce: In a medium bowl, whisk together ketchup, vinegar, honey, Worcestershire, chipotle, cumin, salt, pepper, and liquid smoke, if using. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyFor the Chicken: Set a (6-quart) air fryer to 400°F and preheat for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together oil, brown sugar, salt, smoked paprika, black pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, dry mustard, and cayenne (if using) until all spices are coated in oil to form a paste. Rub the spice paste all over the chicken. (If you have time, transfer chicken to a plate and refrigerate uncovered for at least 30 minutes or up to 24 hours before cooking.)
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyPlace chicken flat in the preheated air-fryer basket, spaced as evenly apart as possible to allow for air circulation. Cook until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh registers 160°F, 10 to 13 minutes.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyFlip chicken over and spoon about 1 tablespoon of the prepared sauce over each thigh. Return to the air fryer and continue cooking until the sauce is glazy, edges are lightly charred, and a thermometer inserted into the thickest part registers 175 to 180°F, 3 to 5 minutes. Carefully transfer to a cutting board to let rest for at least 5 to 15 minutes before slicing. Serve with the remaining sauce.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyHow to Make This Recipe With Chicken BreastsIf cooking chicken breasts, use two (6- to 8-ounce each) boneless skinless breasts or two (10- to 14-ounce each) bone-in chicken breasts, starting with the breasts presentation-side down. In step 3, cook the chicken breasts until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast registers 120°F (for boneless skinless breasts this will take 5 to 10 minutes, for bone-in breasts this will take about 15 minutes). Then sauce, flip and sauce the chicken again, and cook until it registers 160°F, 6 to 10 minutes.
Special EquipmentAir Fryer
NotesSave the remaining chipotle in adobo for another use. Transfer it to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks or freeze for up to 3 months.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe spice rub and the sauce can be made and stored separately in airtight containers for up to 7 days.
The cooked chicken can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile garlic bread is seemingly simple to make, many versions are a disappointment to eat, with either too much or too little garlic flavor and bread that’s unpleasantly burnt at the edges while still soggy in the center. Great garlic bread should be buttery, crusty, and perfectly toasty from edge to edge. It should have an intense garlic flavor without being overwhelming, and it should be well seasoned—and well buttered!—in every bite.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo avoid the common pitfalls that stand in the way of making perfect garlic bread, read on for my tips on making evenly toasted garlic bread with robust garlic flavor that is prominent but not harsh. My recipe not only produces delicious garlic bread, but it requires just a handful of common ingredients and about 5 minutes of active prep time before it bakes for 15 minutes. without requiring the time to roast a full head of garlic before even starting the bread.
Unlock Garlic Powder's Full PotentialWe’re all in agreement that garlic powder, like many dried seasonings and spices, gets a bad rap. One reason for this is that we often expect the same flavor from garlic powder as we do from fresh garlic. To fully appreciate garlic powder, we must first accept that it will never have the vibrant bite that fresh garlic does. Instead, garlic powder has a gentler and sweeter garlic flavor than its fresh counterpart, and when used correctly and in moderation, it can add a subtle cooked garlic flavor to your garlic bread.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPotentially adding to garlic powder’s stigma is the fact that garlic powder is often used incorrectly. When sprinkled dry directly onto foods, it can taste dusty and lackluster. This is because garlic powder straight from the jar has not developed its full flavor. Alliin and allinase, the two compounds that react to produce the primary flavor component in garlic, are in an inactive state when dry, as they are in garlic powder. But when hydrated with water, these water-soluble compounds are activated to produce the chemical allicin, which is responsible for garlic’s pungency and aroma. When garlic powder is first stirred with a small amount of water before being used, the result is an enhanced roasty, sweet garlic flavor. I learned this technique from Annie Petito’s garlic bread recipe for Cooks Illustrated, where she uses the technique of hydrating the garlic powder with water before blending it with butter to form a paste, and I’ve incorporated that in this recipe below.
Skip Oven Roasted Fresh Garlic and Use Your Microwave InsteadLet’s be honest with ourselves—there’s no flavor that compares with a slow-roasted, creamy head of garlic, especially when smeared over fresh bread. When I have the time, I do like to incorporate roasted garlic into my garlic bread. But, it takes an hour just to roast, cool, and separate the garlic gloves before even getting to making the garlic bread.
For an approachable weeknight garlic bread that is fast and easy to make, with savory garlic flavor, I found that finely mincing just a few cloves of fresh garlic and briefly microwaving them with butter gently cooked the garlic just enough to tame its raw flavor while also infusing the butter with incredible garlic flavor. The assertive flavor of the garlic-infused butter paired with the sweeter, more delicate flavor of the garlic powder creates a complex garlic flavor with just minutes of preparation. Am I saying it mimics real roasted garlic flavor? Not entirely, but it’s still incredibly delicious, and approachable for any night of the week.
Make a Spreadable Garlic-Butter Paste to Evenly Coat the BreadCombining the melted, garlic-infused butter with softened but still solid butter makes a spreadable garlic-infused paste that smears easily onto the bread. Simply pouring the hot melted butter over the still solid butter and quickly stirring the mixture together with a small spoon should create the paste immediately. If the mixture is too liquidy at first, just let it cool at room temperature for 5 to 10 minutes before stirring to recombine. At this point, the butter mixture should be solidified but soft and spreadable. Once the right texture is achieved, I stir in a couple tablespoons of good extra-virgin olive oil because I love the way the combination of rich butter and fruity olive oil taste, particularly on bread.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBake the Bread on Both Sides for Even ToastingAs I mentioned earlier, I’m a firm believer that well made garlic bread should be perfectly toasty and lightly browned edge to edge. To ensure this, after halving a loaf of soft Italian bread horizontally and spreading it with the garlic butter, I first bake the bread cut side up on a rimmed baking sheet until the butter mixture is fully melted and has seeped into the bread before flipping the bread over, cut side down, and gently pressing it into the rimmed baking sheet. This process guarantees that the bread crisps and browns evenly.
When the bread is finished, make sure to use a thin spatula to carefully flip the bread cut side up onto a cutting board. If some of the toasty garlic bits are left behind on the sheet pan, just use the spatula to scrape them up and then sprinkle back onto the bread before slicing it into individual portions and serving.
Flavor VariationsThe recipe below is simple and pantry friendly, but you can introduce a variety of flavors to it. The garlic bread I grew up eating always had a sprinkle of paprika and cayenne, a combo that creates an appealing rust-tinged color and a subtle hint of heat, so I’ve included those here as optional ingredients.
You can take your garlic bread even further and add freshly grated Parmesan cheese or a teaspoon of minced anchovies to the butter paste before spreading it over the bread. Or fold in a couple tablespoons of chopped fresh chives, parsley, or basil, or a teaspoon of minced woodsy herbs like fresh rosemary or thyme. I sometimes also add a couple tablespoons of minced sundried tomatoes and swap in the sun dried tomato oil for the olive oil in the recipe. With this quick and easy recipe in your pocket, you can have garlic bread every night of the week—I can tell you my family didn't complain when we did just that when I was developing this recipe.
Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 425℉(220℃). In a medium bowl, combine garlic powder and water; set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPlace half of the butter and all of the minced garlic, salt, paprika, and cayenne, if using, in a small bowl and microwave, covered, until butter is melted, and mixture is bubbling around to edges, 60 to 90 seconds, stopping and stirring every 30 seconds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer melted butter mixture to the bowl with garlic powder mixture, add the remaining half of the butter, and stir with a small spoon until homogeneous loose paste forms. Whisk in the olive oil. (If the mixture melts completely, set aside and let it solidify slightly before using.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpread cut sides of bread evenly with garlic-butter paste. Transfer bread, cut sides up, to a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until the butter mixture has melted and seeped into bread, and edges are beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Remove sheet from oven. Flip bread so the cut sides are down, and gently press into the baking sheet. Return to oven, and continue to bake until the cut bottom sides are light golden brown and crisp, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Use a thin spatula to gently flip, then transfer bread to a cutting board. Using a serrated knife, slice and serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentRimmed baking sheet
NotesA roughly 12 by 5-inch loaf of supermarket Italian bread, which has a soft, thin crust and fine crumb, works well here. Do not use a rustic or crusty artisan-style loaf, which are too cavernous for making garlic bread.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikChicken legs are the most forgiving part of a chicken to cook. They'll never threaten to dry out on you like a chicken breast. This arguably makes them the tastiest part of a chicken. Flavorful and juicy, chicken legs are perfect for braising, grilling, frying, and more. A bonus? Thighs and drumsticks are the least expensive chicken parts you can buy.
Here are 16 chicken leg recipes from around the globe, well-suited for any night of the week.
Chicken Cacciatore With Mushrooms, Tomato, and OnionSerious Eats / Vicky WasikAn earthy, hearty version of the classic Italian dish, this recipe stars juicy, tender pieces of chicken leg, braised in white wine with mushrooms, onion, and tomato. It tastes like it's been cooking for hours, but it only takes about an hour.
Chicken Yassa (Senegalese Braised Chicken With Caramelized Onions)Serious Eats / Jillian AtkinsonA citrus-forward version of your favorite stewed and smothered chicken-and-onion dish.
Crispy Braised Chicken With White Beans and Chile VerdeSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThis recipe takes the intensely rich, smoky, and hot chile sauce from chile verde and the comforting bean stew aspect of white chicken chili and adds a perfectly braised piece of chicken; deep flavors, crisp skin, and all.
The Best Chicken PaprikashSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThis version of chicken paprikash takes a few extra steps to ensure the best possible flavor. Searing the chicken produces a more complex sauce while adding gelatin to chicken broth gives it a richer mouthfeel. The recipe is a little more complicated than your average chicken paprikash, but the results are well worth the effort.
Chicken Adobo (Filipino-Style Braised Chicken)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikChicken adobo is a classic Filipino dish that's as savory as it is bright with acid, and it goes perfectly with a large platter of garlic fried rice.
Chicken BouillabaisseSerious EatsBouillabaisse is a classic southern French seafood stew flavored with tomatoes, saffron, and fennel, that's served with a garlicky mayonnaise-like rouille made with bread, olive oil, and cayenne pepper. Here, I decided to use the same ingredients to make a quick chicken stew that's a little heartier but equally as tasty.
Homemade Pollo Campero (Central American–Style Fried Chicken)Serious Eats / Karla VasquezPollo Campero is a restaurant chain that originated in Guatemala and is now famous throughout much of Central America and beyond—in particular for the juicy, flavorful, and richly spiced fried chicken recreated by this recipe.
Easy Pressure Cooker Chicken and Chickpea MasalaSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThis one-pot meal of tender chicken, chickpeas, and spinach tastes like it's been simmering all day in a creamy sauce flavored with ginger, garlic, and cumin.
Ghanaian Chicken and Peanut Stew (Groundnut Soup)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikPeanut butter and tomatoes lend a rich and creamy backdrop to this simple, hearty Ghanaian chicken stew.
Chicken Inasal (Filipino Grilled Chicken)Serious Eats / Julia HartbeckA street food in the Philippines typically served with white or garlic rice and sawsawan, a vinegary dipping sauce.
Taiwanese Three Cup Chicken (San Bei Ji)Serious Eats / Qi AiYou won't see a lot of strict rules in Taiwanese recipes. But this dish, one of the island's most famous, is an exception. It calls upon equal parts soy sauce, rice wine, and sesame oil to create a viscous, dark sauce for braising chopped pieces of bone-in chicken.
Jamaican Curry ChickenSerious Eats / Karina MatalonMarinated with an assortment of spices and coated in a rich, creamy gravy, this flavorful curry chicken is a simple and delicious Jamaican staple.
Grilled Tamarind Chicken ThighsSerious Eats / Vicky WasikGrilled chicken thighs marinated in a bold mixture inspired by Filipino sinigang.
The Best Buttermilk-Brined Southern Fried ChickenSerious Eats / Andrew JanjigianAn intensely flavored brine keeps the meat moist underneath all that golden brown crispness.
Chicken Tagine With Pistachios, Dried Figs, and ChickpeasSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerThis slow-cooked chicken and chickpea tagine gets its flavor not from lots and lots of deep browning, but instead a gentle touch, a few key spices, and the natural juices of the meat and vegetables.
Traditional French CassouletSerious Eats / Fred HardyA meaty stew of poultry, sausage, pork, and beans, all under a rich, dark brown crust.
Serious Eats / Qi AiLast year, I moved in with an Iowan. The way people outside the Midwest confuse Iowa and my home state of Ohio, you might assume that my fiancée, Liz, and I grew up in similar cultures—and, sure, in many ways, we did. But they weren’t the same. The Midwest is a massive region, and Des Moines is hundreds of miles from Cincinnati. (They aren’t even in the same time zone.) So, on trips to various parts of Iowa to visit Liz’s family and friends, I’ve been getting an education in Hawkeye State traditions.
Even before I was driving up to Iowa once a month, I was intrigued by ham balls, Iowa’s version of those glazed cocktail meatballs that are irresistible at parties. And now that I have an Iowan roommate, I’ve been working on my own recipe.
Serious Eats / Qi AiPer countless vintage sources, the Iowa ham ball originated as a way to repurpose leftovers. Cooks would grind up the previous night’s ham, mix it with binders and milk, shape it into meatballs, and bake it, often in a sugary glaze.
“We Iowans are a creative lot,” Liz’s mom, Iowa native Jill Cook, said when I reached out to ask for ham ball tips. “Austere farming situations are sometimes the mother of invention.” (The similarly resourceful Pennsylvania Dutch have their own ham ball tradition.)
These days, Iowa grocery stores sell a ham ball-specific mixture of ground ham and pork called “ham loaf,” and the balls are on restaurant menus across the state. Like so many make-do dishes, the ham ball has become a beloved part of the culture.
The Basic Ingredient Ratio for Iowa Ham BallsThere are rules for Iowa ham balls now. "I don’t use the same recipe for ham balls every time I make them,” Jill says, “but the standard Iowa recipe has half ground ham, half ground pork, and always crackers, egg, milk, and a glaze with brown sugar, mustard, ketchup, and vinegar.”
Many Iowans would agree, at least generally. How do I know? In the past couple of months, I’ve found, compared, and in some cases, tested more than 80 Iowa ham ball recipes, spanning more than 150 years. (The oldest recipe I found, from the Waterloo, Iowa Courier, is pitched as a use for “what is usually left, and otherwise lost, of boiled ham,” a poignant lead-in, and calls for “as many eggs as you have persons to eat.”)
Serious Eats / Qi AiThe formula is consistent. While there are variations between decades and recipes, of course, generations of Iowans have used the same one-to-one-to-one ratio: one pound ham, one pound pork, one cup cracker crumbs. (Sometimes, it's actually one-to-one-to-one-to-one, with one egg, but cooks more often use two eggs, and somewhere between 1/2 and 1 cup of milk, for that amount of meat.)
Mix it all up (with added seasoning, if you’d like, though the ham is salty enough that you don’t needsalt), form it into balls, nestle them into a baking dish, pour a sugary glaze (a basic brown sugar-and-vinegar syrup works) over the top, bake at 350℉ for 45 to 60 minutes, and you have real-deal Iowa ham balls. That’s it. You can stop reading here and get to work.
Or you can stick around for just a few more paragraphs to find out what I learned from making 128 ham balls in two months.
Tips for Tender Ham BallsA lot of what I learned through testing ham ball recipes was what not to do. Adjusting that meat-to-cracker-crumb ratio up and down resulted in ham balls that were either pasty and dry or spongy and greasy.
But I did make some changes to the basic recipe that I used as a starting point. For my first test, I compared different binders: saltines and graham crackers (Jill’s go-to), which are traditional, plus panko and fresh bread. Of those options, saltines were the clear winner, giving me a neutral (and not-too-sweet) flavor and a tender texture, but I still wasn’t thrilled with the result. It was too neutral. Bland, almost. That’s how I ended up with Ritz crackers, which add a buttery flavor that pairs well with ham.
Serious Eats / Qi AiInfluenced by a few 1960s recipes for sweet-and-sour ham balls, I tried introducing pineapple, ginger, clove, cinnamon, allspice, and a touch of soy to the formula. Some of that stuck. Pineapple and clove go well with ham, and soy, ginger, and floral white pepper round out the flavor profile.
Finally, because heavy and rich ham and pork balls fortified with egg and cracker crumbs need all the lightening and brightening they can get, I swapped buttermilk in for the traditional whole milk. At a mere 1/2 cup, the buttermilk adds just a touch of acidity (but you can substitute milk if you want).
Dialing in the Sweet to Tart Ratio in the GlazeWhen I cut the amount of sugar in the glaze, which seemed like a reasonable way to keep the ham balls on the right side of cloying, they lost some of their sweet-and-salty appeal, as the salt prevailed. So, I went back to 1/2 cup of sugar. Don’t skimp. (Some older recipes call for even more.)
While the glaze is often fortified with ketchup or other tomato products, I was initially resistant to putting tomato in the glaze, preferring the older combination of brown sugar, mustard, and vinegar. But after many rounds of testing, I finally had to admit that tomato, in condensed soup form, was an effective way to thicken the glaze and add umami to the dish, as it does for meatloaf. Iowa cooks have evolved the recipe over the years for a reason.
Serious Eats / Qi AiEven with these few adjustments and fine tuning, this is still a straight-down-the-line Iowa ham ball recipe, informed by months of research and testing.
In the make-do spirit of this dish, feel free to fiddle with it a little bit. Maybe you want more pineapple juice in the glaze. Maybe you want to take it out. Maybe you want to mix some red pepper flakes, or a teaspoon of allspice, or dry mustard, into the meat. Maybe you have country ham or bacon on hand, and you want to try adding that. (I liked my bacon-accented ham balls, with four ounces of ground bacon replacing some of the ham and fresh pork, but Liz correctly noted that it was too far from the Iowa standard for this recipe.) That’s what the structure is for—to create space for improvisation and invention. Happy hamballing.
For the glaze: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350℉ (175℃). In a small saucepan, combine all glaze ingredients and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Simmer, whisking frequently until sugar dissolves, then remove from heat and set aside.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor the ham balls: In a food processor, pulse the ham until finely ground, about 25 pulses; set aside.
Serious Eats / Qi AiIn a large bowl, mix cracker crumbs, ginger, white pepper, and clove until well combined. Add buttermilk and stir to combine. Let sit until crumbs are softened and hydrated, about 5 minutes. Stir in ground ham to combine.
Serious Eats / Qi AiIn a small bowl, beat eggs and soy sauce together, then add to the ham mixture and use your hands to combine. Add pork and mix gently, until fully incorporated. Divide meat mixture into 16 ham balls by rolling each meat portion between your wet hands to form balls, rewetting hands as needed. Nestle prepared ham balls into an oven-proof nonstick or lightly greased 9-by-9-inch baking dish or pan.
Serious Eats / Qi AiPour the glaze evenly over the balls, being sure to coat each one. Bake until the glaze is reduced and lightly caramelized and ham balls are cooked through, tender, and register at least 160°F (70°C) on an instant-read thermometer, 40 to 50 minutes. Spoon the ham balls onto plates to serve, topping with extra glaze.
Serious Eats / Qi AiSpecial EquipmentSmall saucepan, food processor, 9-by-9-inch baking dish or pan
Make-Ahead and StorageThe assembled glaze and the raw shaped ham balls can be refrigerated separately for up to 3 days before continuing with step 5 to finish cooking.
The fully cooked ham balls can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishFatteh is a versatile cooking technique across the Levant—Syria, Lebanon, Jordan and Palestine—and other parts of the Arab world like Egypt. Originating from the Arabic verb “fatt,” which means “to break bread and steep in liquid,” fatteh can be as simple as tossing day-old bread in lentil soup or into a salad like fattoush, which is also derived from the same word. It could also be a more elaborate preparation in which cooks soak stale bread in soup, stew, or yogurt-based dishes, then layer it with various toppings, such as chickpeas, eggplant, rice, and meat. These dishes are usually finished with a yogurt-, tahini-, tomato-, or lemon-based sauce and garnished with nuts, herbs, and spices for extra crunch and flavor.
Fatteh likely stems from both economic necessity and the availability of ingredients. Historically, grains like rice weren’t as readily accessible as wheat, making bread the primary carbohydrate for Levantine Arabs. Its widespread availability and affordability also made it an effective way of extending meals to feed more people, especially when meat was scarce and expensive, or when other foods like legumes, grains, and fresh vegetables were limited.
Even though bread remains a staple today and continues to be a way of stretching a meal for people living with food insecurity—like Palestinians under siege in Gaza today—fatteh has transcended its origins as a dish of scarcity. Instead, it is now often seen as a celebratory meal, with bread specifically prepared for the dish, ranging from toasted paper-thin slices to crispy fried pita. There are many variations that incorporate whole dishes like kafta (ground meat patties) or msakhan (Palestinian flatbreads) into the fatteh format, alongside a plethora of sauces and garnishes.
Hummus fatteh (also sometimes called fattet hummus) stands out as one of the oldest and most traditional forms of fatteh, with its preparation varying significantly across the Levant. Though its essence lies in its combination of toasted bread with a chickpea and tahini mixture, garnished with meat and pine nuts—or just pine nuts for a vegetarian option—each family has their own unique recipe. The fine details are dictated by personal preference; some incorporate actual hummus b’tahini, while others may opt for yogurt in place of tahini or use a creamy dressing made from whisking the chickpea cooking liquid and olive oil together.
The ingredients list for this dish, or any fatteh dish, might seem long at first. But a closer look reveals they’re affordable pantry staples many people keep on hand, and the dishes themselves very simple to put together: simmering chickpeas, toasting pita, whisking together creamy yogurt with tahini, whipping up a zesty lemon dressing, and finally, browning the meat. Though you don’t have to, I recommend preparing the beans from scratch, which will allow you to use the flavorful chickpea-cooking water in the dish itself. But it’s also perfectly acceptable to reheat jarred or canned chickpeas in water until boiling and use that liquid to complete the dish, too.
This recipe is how my mother makes her hummus fatteh. After years of trying different versions of the dish at restaurants or other people’s homes, hers is still my favorite way to eat and make it. It’s the quintessential Palestinian brunch meal, and you transform humble ingredients like chickpeas and pita into something truly magical when you combine them with creamy tahini, tender, bite-sized pieces of fried meat, and toasted pine nuts.
As much as I love to mop up hummus with bread, I use a spoon to eat this particular dish, where the toasted pita is at the very bottom to soak up all the sauces and juices. For a delicious vegetarian version, simply skip the meat and add some extra nuts—either more pine nuts or any combination of almonds, cashews, or pine nuts. With toasted pita, creamy chickpeas, and smooth tahini, you can always count on hummus fatteh for a contrast of soft and crunchy, warm and cool, and a satisfying savoriness that begs you to help yourself to more.
For the Fatteh: In a large bowl, cover chickpeas with 6 cups (1.4L) cold water. Let stand at room temperature for at least 8 hours or overnight. Drain and rinse chickpeas thoroughly.
Serious Eats / Qi AiIn a 6- to 8-quart Dutch oven or saucepan, combine chickpeas and cumin. Add enough water to cover by 2 inches (about 8 cups; about 1.9L) and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to a simmer, cover with lid slightly ajar, and cook until chickpeas are completely tender but not falling apart, 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes. Check on chickpeas, stirring occasionally, and top off with more water if needed; chickpeas should be fully submerged at all times. (See notes if using canned chickpeas.)
Serious Eats / Mai KakishMeanwhile: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat to 350ºF (175ºC). Place sliced pita on a rimmed baking sheet and transfer to oven. Toast, using a spoon or spatula to turn pita occasionally, until squares are completely dry and crisp and starting to darken in color, about 15 minutes. Remove and set aside until ready to use.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishIn a medium bowl, stir tahini, garlic, salt, yogurt, and lemon juice together until smooth; the sauce should be thick and sticky. When chickpeas are done, add 1/2 cup to 3/4 cup of chickpea cooking liquid to bowl with tahini mixture and whisk well to incorporate. The sauce should have a consistency similar to maple syrup: thick but easily pourable. Set aside until ready to assemble.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor the Lemon Dressing: In a small bowl, combine garlic, green chile, lemon juice, and extra-virgin olive oil. Whisk well to combine and season to taste with salt. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishFor the Meat: n a 10-inch skillet, heat olive oil and butter over medium heat until butter has melted. Add pine nuts and toast until light golden brown and fragrant, about 1 1/2 minutes. Using a fine-mesh sieve, immediately strain nuts over a small bowl and transfer to a paper-towel lined plate. Set aside. Return fat to pan. Increase heat to medium-high and add lamb or beef and season with spices and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally until meat is nicely browned and cooked through, about 4 minutes. Season to taste with salt.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishTo Assemble: Arrange toasted pita on a large, deep serving platter and spoon half of the lemon dressing on top of the pita. Using a ladle, scoop chickpeas, along with about 1/2 cup of their cooking liquid, over the bread, reserving 2 tablespoons of chickpeas to garnish with. (You want the bread to soak up the liquid but not become a mushy mess.)
Serious Eats / Qi AiPour the tahini and yogurt mixture evenly over the chickpeas. Top with the fried meat and pine nuts. Garnish with the reserved chickpeas, chopped parsley, and pomegranate seeds, if using. Drizzle the remaining lemon dressing over and top with more olive oil if desired. Serve warm.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishSpecial EquipmentRimmed baking sheet, 6- to 8-quart Dutch oven or stockpot, whisk, 10-inch skillet
NotesTwo 14-ounce cans of chickpeas, drained and rinsed well, can be substituted for dried chickpeas. In a medium (4 - 6 qt) pot, cover chickpeas generously with water and add cumin. Bring to a simmer over medium heat until beans are heated through. Maintain a low simmer until you finish prepping the rest of the dish.
Lebanese 7 Spice or baharat can be purchased at Arabic grocery stores or online. 1 teaspoon Lebanese 7 Spice or baharat can be substituted with 1/4 teaspoon each of ground allspice, ground cumin, ground black pepper, and ground cinnamon.
Pine nuts are the traditional choice of nut to use, but any combination of pine nuts, cashews, or almonds will work.
If you are staying in the spirit of keeping this a frugal dish or simply want to avoid chopping meat, you can use ground beef in place of the lamb loin and beef tenderloin called for here.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe toasted pita chips can be made up to a week in advance and stored in an airtight container
The chickpeas can be cooked the day before, refrigerated in their liquid, then reheated in reserved broth when ready to assemble. Reserve chickpea cooking liquid if you plan on preparing the chickpeas and sauce ahead of time.
If making tahini and yogurt sauce ahead of time, loosen with chickpea cooking liquid that has been reheated to a simmer, 1 tablespoon at a time, until you reach your desired consistency, before assembling the dish.
Serious Eats/Morgan GlazeSince I was very young growing up in southwest Virginia, preparing and enjoying big elaborate breakfasts together was a staple part of every family reunion, no matter the hour. When one or several of us returned home late at night or early in the morning, weary and hungry from travel, we’d make breakfast together with the works: eggs, grits, biscuits or toast, and after a quick thaw of leftover country ham from the freezer, red-eye gravy: a quick emulsion of hot coffee and slowly rendered ham drippings. I grew up eating red-eye gravy this way, a swirl of a hot spoonful over an impromptu midnight breakfast, even if I was a bleary-eyed member of the welcoming committee. For many years, I associated red-eye gravy almost entirely with international air travel even before I had ever actually been inside a plane.
The name red-eye gravy likely has nothing to do with coffee or caffeine (or red-eye flights) at all. While there are legends about President Andrew Jackson requesting red-eye gravy the color of his bloodshot eyes after a long night of drinking, these are tall tales that aren’t necessarily rooted in fact. I’ve noticed that the more fantastical stories about red-eye gravy are more common on internet message boards about southern food rather than stories that are actually shared around southern tables themselves. It’s more likely that the name takes its cue from its shimmering reddish hue where it pools around the “eye” or “aitch” bone of thin sliced, bone-in country ham.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeWhile the history behind its name is contested, I will always associate red-eye gravy with breakfast food and a sweet return home. I grew up eating red-eye gravy rendered and built from whatever ham was leftover from the annual New Year’s ham in the freezer. This very often included the bone and all the trimmings, but we didn’t necessarily drizzle it over the top of a proper ham slice. While it’s nice to eat red-eye gravy with a generous slice of ham itself, I think it’s even more pleasant drizzled over a biscuit or stirred into cheesy, buttery grits. It’s not a thick, creamy gravy for dunking or covering food (it’s caffeinated, after all!), but rather it’s more like a jus or pan sauce for dipping and drizzling. It’s intense but rich and succulent, with a slight bitterness offset almost immediately by rich, succulent fat.
I think of red-eye gravy as a testament to being awake, morning or night, whether you’re enjoying it over a full meal before a long day ahead or prolonging the inevitability of sleep. To me, it is a delicacy, the perfect finishing touch for a meal that you make to be eaten over adrenaline-fueled conversation and regalement of travel stories. For me, it is the crown jewel of being home and together again, a freezer somehow still full of ham. It’s dead simple to make, and here are a couple tips to get it right.
Don't Be Tempted to Thicken With a RouxWhile many iterations of southern gravies, especially those meant to be lovingly laddled over biscuits, are thick and velvety from the addition of a flour-based roux, red-eye gravy purists do not add a roux, and this recipe is no different. At its simplest, the recipe is a modest reduction of country ham and strong black coffee, but this recipe incorporates light brown sugar, black pepper, and a pat of butter to soften the hit of the bitterness on the palate. The jolt of strong, slightly bitter black coffee means red-eye gravy is not for the faint of heart, but it’s also a friend to sugar and butter, just as any honest southerner would be. These additions ensure that the gravy is hearty and rich enough without a roux.
Cast Aside the Cast Iron and Use Stainless-Steel InsteadMy dad uses a cast-iron skillet for just about everything, but even he sets it aside for whipping up red-eye gravy, opting instead for a stainless-steel skillet. This is because acidic foods and liquids, such as the coffee in the red-eye gravy, will pick up flavor and color from the iron in the pan, which would turn the gravy dingy and metallic-tasting. red-eye gravy is already very bitter, and the acidity of the coffee mixed with the natural saltiness of the country ham tends to draw out an unpleasant acrid flavor from even the most well-seasoned cast-iron.
The recipe below uses a stainless-steel skillet all the way through, but being the cast iron-lover that I am, when I make this at home I prefer to render the fat of the ham in a cast iron skillet separately, for a slow and even render that easily prevents overcooking of the ham, before transferring the drippings to a stainless steel or enamel skillet to build the sauce. Feel free to start with cast iron, like I do, or stick with stainless steel all the way through. Using stainless steel (or an enameled skillet) doesn’t just avoid an off-putting flavor, but the lighter color allows me to see better how the gravy is progressing and emulsifying. Just one hot spoonful of this gravy over a biscuit with a little extra butter and a drizzle of molasses instantly transports me back to my family's kitchen counter, no matter where I am.
In a large baking dish or large bowl, place ham slices and cover with cold water until fully submerged. Soak for 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt Glaze Pat ham dry as best as possible with paper towels. Trim fat from ham; reserve fat trimmings and ham slices separately. You should have about ⅓ to ½ cup (about 3 ounces) of trimmed fat.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt Glaze In a 12-inch stainless-steel skillet, heat the reserved fat trimmings and 1/2 tablespoon butter over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until fat has rendered, 6 to 8 minutes. Reserve 1 tablespoon drippings (rendered fat) in skillet, and transfer any additional drippings to a small bowl; set aside.
Serious Eats / Morgan Hunt GlazeIncrease heat to medium, push rendered trimmings to one side, and place 1 slice ham in skillet. Cook, until browned on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate and repeat with remaining ham slices, adding a teaspoon of the reserved drippings as needed to the skillet in between slices if skillet is dry. Remove and discard crispy trimmings.
Serious Eats/Morgan GlazePour any remaining reserved drippings into the skillet and swirl to coat. Pour in coffee and water and bring to a simmer over medium heat, scraping bottom of skillet with a flat wooden spoon to release any browned bits. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until mixture has reduced to about ½ cup, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk in sugar, pepper, and remaining ½ tablespoon butter until melted and incorporated. Serve immediately with reserved fried country ham slices.
Serious Eats/Morgan GlazeSpecial Equipment 12-inch stainless steel skillet
NotesBone-in slices tend to come untrimmed and slightly fattier, yielding enough drippings to build the gravy, and the marrow of the bone adds richness and depth to the overall flavor. If you cannot get ham with the bone-in, opt for a piece that has a generous amount of fat for trimming and rendering.
If your coffee is weak, skip the water and use 3/4 cup coffee.
Make-Ahead and StorageLeftover red-eye gravy can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 7 days or frozen for up to 3 months. Fats will solidify and separate. Reheat over low on the stovetop in a saucepan or skillet, and be sure to whisk well before using.
Serious Eats / Qi AiI was fifteen minutes from Strasburg, North Dakota, Lawrence Welk’s hometown, when I saw the red-and-blue lights in my rearview mirror.Oh, no. I’d been road tripping through the Midwest for more than a decade without a speeding ticket.
As it turned out, I was going 70-something in a 65, driving like I was still on the interstate. I did get a ticket. I also got the officer’s thoughts on knoephla—a beloved North Dakotan creamy dumpling soup with roots in Germany—after he asked what brought me to the state. (Answer: the food, mostly.) “My grandma put potato in her dumplings,” he said. “There are different ways to do it. Not sure what the right way is.” He shrugged.
There are different ways to do it, and adding potato to the dumplings is one of the less common, but the knoephla (pronounced nef-la) soup story is usually pretty much the same. It typically involves someone’s grandma, and people who grew up on grandma’s knoephla soup seem to agree that the dish should be a simple and comforting soup, with little more than good chicken broth and handmade (not frozen!) dumplings.
For two months, I ate my way toward the perfect bowl of knoephla soup, maxing out on heavy cream and carbs while testing potential secret ingredients, including miso, celery seed, and various herbs. “I think there’s always a desire to try something new with traditional recipes,” says Jeremy Kopp, interim director of the Germans From Russia Heritage Collection at North Dakota State University, who went through dozens of community cookbooks with me while I was in Fargo researching knoephla. “Historically, everyone had something a little different, but when you boil it down, it’s really all the same. Now, people try to differentiate themselves. There’s that need to be different, or why would someone come to my blog, or read my cookbook?”
After all my attempts at innovation and differentiation, I ended up with a knoephla soup recipe that’s pretty traditional, resembling many of the recipes in the community cookbooks I’ve been stockpiling (but tested and tweaked for the best possible result). It’s what the dish, which is well known on the Plains but not part of most American cooks’ repertoires, deserves—a straightforward introduction.
Nailing the Soup for My Perfect Version of KnoephlaThe knoephla soup that I find most satisfying is comforting but not too heavy, with a texture somewhere between a rich chicken broth and a béchamel. Some knoephla soups are gravy-like in texture, but while a rib-sticking soup can hit the spot in the depths of winter, I can only drink gravy every so often. Other soups are thinner, like chicken and dumplings without the meat, lacking the comforting richness that I associate with the dish. For this recipe, I split the difference by thickening the soup with a small amount of roux, which gave the soup base just the right body.
Cubes of russet potato, softened in the broth, complement the dumplings, adding earthy flavor and extra heft to each spoonful. Chopped celery adds savory depth. (A 2008 study published in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry helped establish why celery is a popular addition to soups like these—it concluded that volatile compounds in the vegetable enhance perceptions of sweet and umami flavors.) I left carrot, a common ingredient, out of this recipe. It adds color to the bowl (as does turmeric, for some cooks), but it isn’t in many of the older recipes, and to me, knoephla soup’s plainness is part of its appeal. Would you add carrot to your mac and cheese? No? Then you won’t miss it here. (Yes? Sounds interesting, but bear with me.)
The DumplingsI’ve heard more than one North Dakotan compare the dumplings used in knoephla to spaetzle, a close relative. Most North Dakota knoephla are dense and a little bit chewy, unlike fluffy Southern dumplings—but tender, too, after a twenty-minute simmer in the broth. Using milk in the dough and adding a touch of baking powder makes the dumplings soft and slurpable.
Serious Eats / Qi AiIn this recipe, I’m asking you to cut your dumplings ahead of time, so you can add them to the soup all at once. Many of those North Dakota grandmas I mentioned snip the dumplings directly into the soup with scissors. That works, too, and it can be cleaner and more efficient, but it means slightly different cook times for your dumplings, because cutting eight dough ropes can take a few minutes, especially for a first-timer. The difference in texture is negligible after a 20-minute simmer, but if you cut the dumplings beforehand, you don’t have to—literally—sweat it, standing over a hot pot of simmering water while snipping frantically.
The result of my months of interviews, sampling, and tinkering is a simple and satisfying dumpling soup. “You can take something as simple as knoephla and make it so complicated,” says Robert Serr, who serves the soup at Bismarck, North Dakota’s beloved Little Cottage Café on Mondays and Wednesdays. “You know, you don’t even know what you’re making anymore, and it tastes like crap. Or you can keep it simple, use stuff you can buy at the grocery store, and turn out a pretty decent product. That’s what I’ve always done.” And I’m pretty sure that’s the rightway.
For the Dumplings: In a large mixing bowl, whisk flour, salt, and baking powder to combine. In a separate small bowl, whisk eggs and milk until eggs are thoroughly beaten. Pour wet ingredients into the dry and stir until a shaggy dough forms. (If dough is too dry, add milk 1 tablespoon at a time until dough comes together. Be patient.)
Serious Eats / Qi AiTurn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until a smooth, elastic dough forms, about 5 minutes. Roll dough into a ball, wrap tightly with plastic wrap, and let rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Qi AiCut dough into eight equal sized pieces (about 65g each), cover loosely with a kitchen towel or plastic wrap and let rest for 5 minutes. Working with 1 dough piece at a time, roll each piece into a long thin rope about 1/2-inch thick and 9 inches long. If dough springs back while rolling, re-cover and let sit to relax for 5 to 10 minutes while you start the soup.
Serious Eats / Qi AiUsing a knife or a bench scraper, cut each dough rope, right before adding to the soup, into ½-inch long dumplings, dusting the work surface lightly with flour as needed to prevent sticking.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor the Soup: While the dumpling dough is resting before cutting ,in a Dutch oven or large stockpot, heat butter over medium-high heat until melted and beginning to foam. Add onion, celery, salt, and pepper and cook until vegetables are softened and translucent, 5 to 7 minutes.
Serious Eats / Qi AiAdd flour and cook, stirring constantly until no dry flour remains, about 2 minutes. Slowly pour in broth, scraping bottom of pan to loosen any stuck bits and whisking to break up any lumps. Bring to a simmer then add potatoes and dumplings. Simmer, adjusting heat as needed to maintain simmer, until potatoes are tender and the dumplings are cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in cream. Season with salt and white pepper to taste. Serve.
Serious Eats / Qi AiSpecial EquipmentDutch oven or large pot
Make-Ahead and StorageThe finished soup can be cooled down and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days, with a caveat that the knoephla dumplings will swell and soften as they absorb the broth. (A lot of people consider that a good thing. In my research, I came across multiple recipes that mentioned that knoephla soup is better the second day!)
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikOatmeal can be a lavish affair, laden with milk or cream, topped with flowing rivers of butter, drizzled with honey or maple syrup, garnished with fruits, and mounted with nut butters and pastes. I love oatmeal like that, and have recipes like a bananas foster–inspired oatmeal with peanut butter and a rich and creamy milk-based oatmeal. But oatmeal doesn't have to be chock full of those kinds of things to be great, and if you want proof, look no farther than the Land of Oats itself: Scotland.
I have no idea if the Scottish would agree with this moniker I've bestowed upon them, but unless they'd prefer I call them the Land of Fried Mars Bars, I'm sticking with it. Also, our new AI overlords agree with me: When I asked ChatGPT which country it would guess I was referring to with The Land of Oats, it replied, "My best guess would be Scotland. Scotland is renowned for its oats, which are a staple grain used traditionally in various Scottish dishes, most notably porridge and oatcakes. The climate and soil conditions in Scotland are particularly well-suited for growing oats, making it a prominent part of the country's agriculture and culinary traditions." So, as we all know, if AI says it, it's true.
The Key Ingredients in Scottish-Style OatmealAnyway, back to oatmeal. Classic Scottish oats are made with three basic ingredients, and two of them—water and salt—hardly even qualify when playing the recipe publication ingredient counting game. So that leaves the oats as the only main ingredient, which means I could declare in a headline that These One-Ingredient Oats Are Better Than My Wildest Dreams and maybe get some attention on Google Discover. (I'd get vastly more attention if I wrote Taylor Swift Says This Ina Garten Recipe for Scottish Oats Is the Best Breakfast Ever, but they have nothing to do with this recipe so we're not gonna go there.)
Up until this moment I've not mentioned the butter, but it is an optional topping, along with some beautiful flaky sea salt. I'll be honest, though, it's not an optional topping for me because the butter makes it. As they say quite rightly in Scotland, "Give me that pat of golden butter on my porridge or give me haggis."
Tips for the Perfect Bowl of Scottish OatsAs for the cooking method, here are the most important techniques and details to pay attention to:
- You do not need a spurtle for this. A spurtle is a traditional Scottish oatmeal-stirring implement that others would identify as...a stick. I own one and I get a big kick out of it, but I've done side-by-side tests stirring with a spurtle and a wooden spoon and I can't detect a lick of a difference.
- Use steel-cut oats, not rolled oats, and toast them if desired. This oatmeal is correctly made with steel-cut (also sold as "pinhead") oats, not rolled or instant oats. They take longer to cook, but they're nuttier and produce a much better texture. You can dry-toast them for a deeper, lightly roasted flavor; it's a nice touch that only takes a few extra minutes. (Don't burn them!)
- Save time with an overnight soak. While there's no requirement to think about breakfast the night before, you will save time in the morning by waking up to a pot full of oats that have been sitting in the water while you slept. Once fully hydrated, they cook up much more quickly, saving you a good ten to 15 minutes on the total cooking time.
- Salt matters. Add a bit of salt to the oats and water before cooking will make all the difference in the oatmeal's final flavor. It shouldn't be too salty but it should taste seasoned. Finishing the oatmeal with a few large crystals of flaky sea salt is also a worthwhile move.
- Stir gently. While the spurtle doesn't matter much, how you stir does make a difference. Stir too little and you could end up with scorched oatmeal, thin and watery oatmeal, or both. Stir too rapidly, and it could turn into a pot of oat glue. That's because the stirring motion loosens starches from the oats and disperses them throughout the pot, thickening the porridge in the process. With gentle and frequent stirring, you'll get oats that are plump and suspended in a creamy glaze, neither thin nor cement-like.
- The recipe says the butter is optional, but it's not.I know I already told you this, but I'm telling you again because I mean it. Eat the butter, enjoy the butter. If you must skip butter, consider a bit of cream instead.
If you prefer a deeper, more complex flavor, dry-toast the oats in the cooking pot over high eat, stirring and tossing constantly, until lightly roasted and fragrant, then remove from heat. If making overnight oats, combine toasted or untoasted oats and water in a medium saucepan or 3-quart saucier and let stand, covered, overnight. If not making overnight oats, combine toasted or untoasted oats and water in the saucepan and proceed with cooking immediately.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikBring oats and water to a simmer over medium-high heat, seasoning lightly with a pinch of salt. Reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook uncovered, stirring frequently but slowly, until porridge is well thickened but still flows slightly, about 5 minutes for overnight oats and 20 minutes for un-soaked oats.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIf oats are still too firm to your taste, stir in additional boiling water 1/4 cup (60ml) at a time and continue cooking until desired texture of oats is reached. Scoop porridge into warmed bowls and top with a pat of butter and/or a splash of cream. Sprinkle flaky salt on top, if desired. Serve.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikNotesMost steel-cut oats work best with the overnight method as described here, but we have found some artisan brands that have a slightly more powdery texture; those do better if you pour off the soaking water, rinse the grains lightly, then add fresh water to cook them. If your overnight oatmeal is overly thick and starchy, you may want to try that soaking-and-rinsing method instead.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoA sope is a thin, shallow shell of masa that's fried until it's just crisp before the hot and tender interior is piled high with any number of fillings ( beans, lettuce, salsa, crumbled queso, and shredded meat are common). They're often served as antojitos, or appetizers, but my favorite way to enjoy sopes is for breakfast or brunch. This recipe combines my love of sopes with elements from my favorite breakfast dishes.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoIt features crispy sopes loaded with hearty refried beans that are smothered in a thick layer of queso fundido accented with bacon bits and fresh chiles. A perfectly poached egg is nestled on top of each filled sope with a spoonful of spicy and acidic xnipec, a Mayan salsa that’s a favorite on my family's table. The dish is savory and filling, and each sope features a gorgeous array of colors. This is not your everyday easy eggs over toast kind of breakfast, but rather a showstopping, meant-to-impress brunch I enjoy making for friends.
Admittedly, shaping and frying the sopes and preparing the various fillings is an ambitious project, but this incredible breakfast is well worth the effort. Here are a few tips for making the sopes along with the various fillings, and how to bring it all together for restaurant-worthy breakfast sopes at home. If you’re not in a brunchy mood, the base sopes recipe I’ve included here can also be used with a wide variety of fillings—a popular combination is shredded meat, lettuce, salsa, crema, and queso fresco.
Tips for Making the SopesIt might be tempting to reach for packaged sopes at a local market, but I recommend making sopes fresh at home since store-bought raw sopes can dry out easily once fried. Making the masa and shaping the dough at home allows you to control the hydration of the masa.
Test the moisture level of the dough: Before you start shaping your sopes, test the moisture level of the masa by smashing a small amount between your palms. If it’s sticky and moist, the dough will be too difficult to shape—if this happens, knead more masa harina into the dough. Low hydration is ideal for sopes to ensure that they fry up crisp.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoShape the sopes by hand: There are a couple of ways to shape sopes. Some people flatten the ball of masa in a tortilla press, but I find it easier to flatten them between your palm and a flat surface, such as a kitchen counter. To shape sopes for frying, start by flattening each dough portion into a pancake, then fold the perimeter upward by about one inch, pinching the edge into itself to give it structure. The one-inch tall wall will hold the toppings in place. Next, make sure the base is flat and even by repeatedly tapping across the entire crater with your fingertips.Take the time to get the shape just right, as this will ensure the sopes hold their cupped form once fried.
Fry the sopes: Street vendors throughout Mexico often use a comal (a large flat griddle) to par-cook the sopes before frying them. Before their final shaping, the flattened raw masa pieces are griddled on both sides before folding the edges up to form their signature cup shape. This is done very quickly while the hot par-cooked masa is still pliable, before they are then dipped in a vat of oil and fried until crisp. When making sopes at home, you don’t need a large comal to sear them before frying. I find that frying the sopes in a deep skillet or wok instead of cooking them on a comal is less finicky because you can shape the masa and fry it without needing to handle a hot, par-cooked masa pancake.
The most challenging part of frying the sopes is keeping the shape of the ridge while the masa is still soft. The trick is to fry them flat side down first in enough oil to submerge the outside of the rim and allow it to crisp before flipping. You’ll need to support the base with a spatula or spider skimmer as you gently flip it over.
The Breakfast Sopes ToppingsFill With Refried Beans Topped With an Ooey and Gooey Queso Fundido While refried beans in sopes are typically topped with crumbled curds of queso fresco or queso cotija, I wanted a gooey melted cheese accompaniment for these sopes so I landed on a queso fundido. Queso fundido (also known as queso flameado when served as a flambé) is cheese that is melted down and often mixed with toppings.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoI started by testing the recipe with queso Oaxaca, and while I loved the meltiness, it didn’t quite have enough flavor. I found that incorporating extra-sharp white cheddar added a funkiness similar to cotija that was bold enough to shine through among all the other flavors in the dish.
As for the mix-ins for the queso fundido, I went with bacon in this recipe, but carnitas or chorizo are a great substitutes if you prefer a different add-in. Pouring the finished queso fundido over the refried beans made a more attractive presentation than when I stirred the queso and the beans together.
Serve with a Sharp and Spicy SalsaAt this point, the sopes were very rich and desperately needed some acidity for balance. I immediately thought of xnipec, a Mayan salsa from the Yucatán that features onions and habaneros pickled in the juice of a sour orange. In this recipe, I swap in a more readily available citrus juice—a blend of orange, lime, and grapefruit juice—to mimic the flavor of sour oranges. I wanted to boost the acidity and fruitiness of the salsa even further by adding diced pineapple. I briefly broiled the pineapple to develop a charred flavor before dicing and tossing it with the rest of the salsa right before serving. The result is a spicy and bright salsa featuring slivers of red onion and habanero that are lightly pickled from the acidic mixture.
Serve with a Sharp and Spicy SalsaAt this point, the sopes were very rich and desperately needed some acidity for balance. I immediately thought of xnipec, a Mayan salsa from the Yucatán that features onions and habaneros pickled in the juice of a sour orange. In this recipe, I swap in a more readily available citrus juice—a blend of orange, lime, and grapefruit juice—to mimic the flavor of sour oranges. I wanted to boost the acidity and fruitiness of the salsa even further by adding diced pineapple. I briefly broiled the pineapple to develop a charred flavor before dicing and tossing it with the rest of the salsa right before serving. The result is a spicy and bright salsa featuring slivers of red onion and habanero that are lightly pickled from the acidic mixture.
Poach the Eggs Just Before ServingWhile I prefer crispy fried eggs in almost every other application, I found the tender whites and runny yolk of a poached egg provided a nice contrast to the crunch of the sopes. I recommend poaching the eggs right before you are ready to fill and serve the sopes so they are still nice and warm when you’re ready to eat. If the eggs do get cool, you can gently reheat them in simmering water.
Bringing it All Together: Tips for Assembling the SopesSerious Eats/Lorena MassoTo get the filled and assembled sopes on the table hot, the order of operations is critical. Start by making the xnipec, which can be done a few days ahead. The refried beans can also be cooked up to four days ahead and rewarmed in the oven before topping with the queso fundido. If you choose to make the refried beans fresh the day of serving, hold them warm in the oven while assembling and frying the sopes. Once the sopes are fried, transfer them to a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet and set aside while you prepare the queso fundido. While the queso topped beans are baking, poach the eggs. The sopes can be room temperature when filling, but if you prefer them warm, reheat in the oven at 400°F (200ºC) for about 3 minutes, after the queso topped refried beans have finished cooking.
To assemble the sopes, the beans and queso fundido need to be spread on the base quickly while the cheese mixture is still melty. Then, top each portion with a poached egg and a scoop of xnipec. Then serve the rest of the salsa at the table so people can add as much as they can handle—I personally like enough to make enough to make me sweat.
For the Xnipec: Adjust oven rack to the upper-middle position and preheat the broiler. In a medium bowl, combine the orange juice, lime juice, grapefruit, red onion, and habanero. If the onion or habanero is sticking out of the liquid, push them down to submerge; set aside.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoSet pineapple slab on a rimmed baking sheet and broil until charred on both sides, about 2 minutes per side. Once cool enough to handle, dice into 1/4-inch pieces and stir into the onion-juice mixture. Let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or up to 4 hours. (The mixture can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days.)
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoFor the Sopes: In a large bowl, combine masa harina, salt, and water. Using your hands, mix the ingredients into a uniform dough. To test the masa, roll it into a small ball and gently crush it between your palms. If it sticks to your hands, add another tablespoon of masa harina. Once the masa is smooth and pliable, roll it into 6 uniformly sized balls.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoTo form the sopes, place 1 masa ball on a work surface and flatten it into a pancake. Then, fold the outer 1-inch edge of the dough and pinch to create a 1-inch tall border that stands straight up. Using the tips of your fingers, press the inside of the shaped sopes base into an even thickness.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoIn a large skillet or wok, heat oil over medium-high heat to 350℉ (175°C). (Oil should measure about 1/2 inch deep.) Add 2 sopes flat side down, and fry until the bottom side crisps and turns golden, about 2 minutes. Carefully flip over and fry until the inside surface is crisp and golden, about 2 more minutes. Using a spider skimmer, lift the sopes and let any trapped oil drip back into the pot. Place on a paper towel–lined rack, sprinkle lightly with salt, and repeat in batches of 2 at a time with the remaining sopes.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoFor the Queso Fundido: Heat oven to 400℉ (205°C). In a 10-inch stainless-steel skillet, add bacon and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until bacon is rendered and crisp, 5 to 10 minutes. Add Thai chiles and cook until softened and fragrant, about 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon and chiles to a large bowl. Add queso Oaxaca and cheddar to the bacon mixture and toss to combine.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoIn a 3-quart casserole dish, spread refried beans in an even layer. Top with the cheese-bacon mixture and bake until warmed through and the cheese is melted, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoTo assemble: Fill each sope with the bean and queso fundido mixture on the base of each sope. Top each with a poached egg, minced cilantro, and the prepared xnipec. Serve, passing the remaining xnipec.
Serious Eats/Lorena MassoSpecial Equipment Large deep skillet or wok, Digital thermometer, spider skimmer, 10-inch stainless-steel skillet
NotesMasa harina is available in the Latin foods aisle at most grocery stores. Maseca is a widely available brand. Masienda is a great brand that uses heirloom corn but can be more difficult to find. Make sure the label says “instant corn masa flour.”
This recipe makes more xnipec than you need. Use it anywhere you would use pickled onions, such as in sandwiches or tacos, or with fried eggs.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe xnipec can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days.
The refried beans can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.
The fried sopes are best consumed right away.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishIf you’ve noticed that many Arabic dishes are named based on where they come from (e.g. Qudsiyeh from al-Quds, or Jerusalem), the vessel they are cooked in (qidreh, which means pot), or manner in which they are prepared (maqlubeh means “flipped over”), you won’t be surprised to learn that “makhloota” simply means mixed together. What is actually mixed together, however, can vary depending on region or locale. In Lebanon, it traditionally refers to a dish of boiled mixed legumes including any combination of chickpeas, kidney beans, fava beans, lentils, wheat, and bulgur.
The version of makhloota I am sharing here is one I came across in Palestinian hummus shops across the Galilee region, which borders Lebanon. Made with a combination of cooked chickpeas and fava beans, it appears to be a version of Lebanese makhloota. The beans are usually lightly mashed, then dressed with a lemony garlic sauce. The two legumes are served on the same plate, either adjacent to or on top of each other. Some places serve this mixture on a bed of hummus b’tahini, while others will simply drizzle a tahini sauce on top.
I first tried this dish in the Galilee. I was probably a teen; I remember making a face at my parents when they ordered it as if to say: Why order such a basic dish? It’s just beans mixed together! But I also remember the first bite because it caught me by surprise—and was a good lesson in how a simple or basic dish is often just as, if not more, delicious than a fussy or complicated one.
To this day, I often prefer makhloota on its own, heavy on the garlic and lemon, with some green chiles and parsley on the side. It’s the way Hummus Issa, my go-to spot in Akka, serves it. But that’s not to say there isn’t a time and place for elevating the dish with a generous drizzle of tahini sauce on top, which is why I have included this option in the recipe as well. Regardless of which option you choose or find yourself in the mood for, the one thing I recommend (as always!) is to boil extra of both the favas and the chickpeas and freeze the additional portions because you can then make makhloota in the time it takes to reheat these legumes.
The recipe calls for you to mix the fava and chickpeas separately with the flavorings for a prettier presentation, but for a quick weeknight dish you can certainly mix everything together in the same bowl. If using canned beans and you don’t mind the presentation, you could also heat them both together. However you make your makhloota, be sure to serve it with plenty of bread to scoop it up, and make sure to get a bit of everything in each bite.
In a medium bowl, cover chickpeas with 4 cups (946ml) cold water. In another medium bowl, cover fava beans with 4 cups (946ml) cold water. Let stand at room temperature at least 8 hours. Using a colander, drain and rinse both thoroughly.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishIn a medium saucepan or pot, combine chickpeas with enough water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to a simmer. Simmer, covered with lid slightly ajar, stirring occasionally and topping off with more water as needed to keep beans fully covered, until chickpeas are completely tender but not falling apart, 1 1/2 hours to 2 hours.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoAt the same time the chickpeas are cooking, in a separate medium saucepan or pot, combine the fava beans with enough water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to a simmer. Simmer, covered with lid slightly ajar, stirring occasionally and topping off with more water as needed to keep beans fully covered, until fava beans are completely tender but not falling apart, 1 1/2 hours to 2 hours.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishIn a small bowl, combine garlic, lemon juice, chile, salt, and cumin. Transfer half to another small bowl. Using a slotted spoon, transfer cooked chickpeas and 3 to 4 tablespoons of the braising liquid to the first bowl. Using a slotted spoon, transfer cooked fava beans and 3 to 4 tablespoons of the braising liquid to the other bowl. Stir each to combine until slightly thickened, using the back of a spoon to mash some of the beans as you stir—you are looking for a consistency in which most of the beans remain intact but are coated by a thick stew-like liquid Season to taste with additional lemon juice and salt.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishFor the Tahini Sauce: In a small bowl, whisk tahini, lemon juice, yogurt, and salt with 2 tablespoons water until well-combined. (For a looser consistency, add an extra tablespoon of water.) Set aside.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishTo Serve: Place the dressed chickpeas on one side of the serving bowl and the fava beans on the other. Drizzle with tahini sauce, if using. Garnish with parsley and drizzle generously with olive oil. Serve with pita for scooping.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishSpecial Equipment2 medium saucepans
NotesCanned chickpeas and/or fava beans can be substituted for dried. To use canned beans, drain and rinse well. In a small pot, combine chickpeas and 1/2 teaspoon cumin. Cover with water and simmer over medium heat for 10 minutes, until fully heated through. Repeat with fava beans.
Serious Eats / Yasmine Maggio, Amanda SuarezFocaccia is undoubtedly having a moment on Instagram, and we’re here for it. While making a homemade batch is easy as can be (see our recipes for basic homemade focaccia, roasted garlic focaccia, and olive-rosemary focacccia), I can’t say I’m always ready to hop off the couch and prep a batch for the oven—fortunately good store-bought focaccia isn’t hard to find. While good quality homemade focaccia or store-bought focaccia is satisfying on its own, there are myriad ways to dress it up. Of course there are many savory spins on focaccia (olive, tomato, and onion are some of my favorite add-ins), but it’s the sweet takes that are particularly piquing our interest now.
Once we saw this post using focaccia as a vessel for an ice cream sandwich, I and the rest of the Serious Eats team started furiously brainstorming other ways to turn this typically savory bread into a sweet treat. Here are just a few of our favorite sweet spins on focaccia.
Serious Eats / Yasmine MaggioIce Cream SandwichUsing slices of focaccia instead of cookies for an ice cream sandwich is genius, so we had to include it here. It’s as simple as scooping your favorite ice cream and smushing it between two pieces of focaccia. I tried plain focaccia with vanilla ice cream as well as with coffee ice cream, and both were delicious, but I can see this working well with other ice cream flavors, so play around with it—you never know what new combinations you’ll discover. Rosemary focaccia with honey or peach ice cream is one we want to try soon.
Since the average slice of focaccia is normally quite thick, I suggest cutting it down the middle to create two pieces. For maximum smushing capacity, it’s best to go with un-toasted focaccia here; a warm piece will lead your ice cream to melt rapidly, and a crisp one is an easy route to your sandwich falling apart faster than your life....
Serious Eats / Yasmine MaggioNutella, Pistachio Cream, and Other Sweet SpreadsGood focaccia is more flavorful than your average piece of toast, which makes it the ideal vessel for your favorite spreads. Anything goes here: a chocolate-hazelnut spread such as Nutella, dulce de leche, and pistachio cream are great choices, but I particularly liked the simple combination of salted butter and a drizzle of honey. Whichever spread you choose to slather on your focaccia, a sprinkle of flaky sea salt is an ideal finishing touch.
This is a great option for a quick sweet snack, but if you’re entertaining, you could also cut the focaccia up into bite-size pieces and then toast them in the oven before adding your spread of choice, in the vein of baguette toasts.
Bread PuddingIf your focaccia is nearing the end of its freshness or is already stale, going the bread pudding route is a great way to use it up. You can use any bread pudding recipe and sub focaccia for the listed bread. Once mixed with the other ingredients and baked, the focaccia will take on a soft, spoonable texture—an ideal dessert to scoop into a bowl and cozy up with on the couch.
French ToastOne of the great things about French toastis how adaptable it is—you can make it with many different types of (preferably stale) bread, including white bread, challah, brioche, and, yes, focaccia. Since focaccia tends to be thick, we recommend leaving it in the egg bath slightly longer than you would with thinner bread to be sure it soaks it up well. Another option is to slice the focaccia into thinner pieces before placing it in the eggy mixture. However you do it, senior culinary editor Leah Colins, who first hatched this idea for focaccia French toast, recommends adding a bit of vanilla.
Bread & Fruit Dessert SaladPanzanella, but make it sweet? Don’t mind if we do! This idea from culinary editor Genevieve Yam is essentially a fruit salad with bread. You’ll want to cut up the focaccia into bite-size pieces and toss with whatever fruit you’d like (grapes and berries are my personal favorites), then season with a good quality olive oil, sea salt, and some citrus zest.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBrewing tea might seem simple: Just plop a tea bag into a mug, fill it with hot water, and ta-da—there’s a steaming cuppa. But if you’re really into tea (or—gasp—just bought a tin of looseleaf tea by accident and are panicking a little), investing in a few pieces of gear can elevate your tea game from good to great. Plus, a lot of tea gear can pinch-hit in the coffee arena, too (like our favorite leakproof thermos and milk frother). Double the brews, double the fun, right?
Some of Our Favorite Tea Gear, at a Glance The Best Stovetop Kettle: Fellow Clyde Stovetop Tea Kettle * A Super Accurate Variable Temperature Electric Kettle: Fellow Corvo EKG Electric Kettle * A Reliable Non-Variable Temperature Electric Kettle: Breville Soft Top Pure Tea Kettle * An Excellent Ball-Style Tea Infuser: Norpro 2-Inch Mesh Tea Infuser Ball * The Best Basket-Style Tea Infuser: Fenshine Stainless Steel Tea Infuser * A Thermos That’ll Keep Tea Hot: Zojirushi Stainless Bottle SJ-JS10 * A Fancy Frother for Tea Lattes: Instant MagicFroth Milk Frother * A Bamboo Whisk for Matcha: Matcha DNA Bamboo Whisk * A Porcelain Gaiwan Teapot: Liang baobao Traditional Gaiwan * A Cute, Classic Tea Cup and Saucer:* Pillivuyt Coupe Porcelain Cups & Saucers
A Little Background on Brewing TeaPrecision tea preparation is about more than simply adding boiling water to a mug; depending on the type of tea and what kind of drink you're making, some teas require a stew in boiling water, while others need a mellow steep in slightly less hot temps. “Most teas can simply be prepared by steeping in hot water," says Michelle Cheng, owner of Ceremony, a cafe and tea house in Providence, RI. “But if you want the best tea experience, different roasts and categories of teas will require different brewing temperatures and different types of brewing vessels.” Steep time is another important factor, and most teas will include the information on the box or tin, but if not, here are some general guidelines:
The brewing process differs greatly when making matcha, which is sifted and whisked into hot water rather than steeped. “Using water that's too hot or not hot enough can ruin matcha upon contact,” Cheng says. It’s also important to whisk vigorously, so the powder integrates into the hot water; that said, Cheng warns against over-whisking, which can cause “giant bubbles instead of microfoam.”
Our Favorite Gear for Brewing and Drinking TeaThis stovetop tea kettle from Fellow won our tests because of its comfortable, heat-proof handle (coated in sturdy silicone). Unlike some kettles, which feature spout covers you have to toggle to open, the Fellow's automatically opens when pouring, leading to a smooth, consistent stream of water (and no fussing). We also love the simple, attractive form and the harmonic whistle it makes when it hits the boiling point.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel, silicone * Stated Capacity: 1.8 quarts * Max Capacity: 1.95 quarts to actual max fill line (58 ounces) * Weight (when empty): 1 pound, 13.4 ounces * Weight (when at capacity): 5 pounds, 12 ounces * Diameter of the kettle's opening: 4 3/8 inches * Dimensions: 10 x 7 x 8 inches * Compatible cooktops:* Gas, electric
Serious Eats / Eric KingVariable kettles allow the user to set a specific water temperature, so if you want a perfectly bloomed cup of oolong, this style can get your water to exactly 195°F. During testing, the Fellow Corvo quickly reached each assigned temperature, and it was super easy to use: just push the dial, then turn it to your desired temperature. We also like that this vessel can hold water at a temperature for up to an hour after heating (we even tested its accuracy in this realm, and found it was within a degree the whole time).
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel; plastic * Stated capacity: 0.9 liters * Good to know:* Variable temperature range of 135°F-212°F
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNon-variable kettles have a simple job: bring water to a boil. In our tests, we liked this option from Breville, which heated water quickly and was super easy to use: just toggle the switch and wait to hear the ding when the water is ready.
Key Specs Materials: Glass; stainless steel; plastic * Stated capacity: 1.7 liters * Good to know:* Has dual-sided “water windows” with measurement markings
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf you're into looseleaf tea, a tea infuser is a handy little doodad to have in your drawer. There are two types of infusers: baskets and ball-style infusers. A ball-style infuser is separated into two halves that you fill with looseleaf tea and then lower into your cup or teapot. Our favorite ball tea infuser is from Norpro; it's easy to open, fill, close, and remove, thanks to its attached chain (and the cute mini ceramic teapot at the end).
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel * Weight: 0.8 ounces * Dimensions: 3 x 2.5 x 2.5 inches * Care instructions:* Hand wash only
Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinA basket is another classic type of tea infuser that rests on the lip of a tea cup or pot. The Fenshine is our top pick since it's easy to fill and clean, and it did a fabulous job keeping even the tiniest specks of tea leaves contained. Plus, we like that it has two arms that extend over the lip of the mug so the infuser stays super steady.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel and rubber * Includes: Infuser and lid * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinA sturdy thermos, like this one from Zojirushi, lets us bring our (piping! hot!) tea with us wherever we’re going. And this thing can keep tea HOT: in our tests, it held hot water above 175°F for six hours—that's almost an entire workday. Plus, it's petite and leakproof, so you can toss it into your bag and don't have to worry about the lid popping open and spilling hot tea everywhere. It also comes with a lid that doubles as a cup—cute!
Key Specs Weight: 13.8 ounces * Materials: Stainless steel, plastic * Dimensions: 11.5 x 3.5 inches * Stated capacity: 1 liter * Lid type: Cup lid * Care instructions:* Hand wash only
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWe love a good matcha latte: the combination of the slightly bitter matcha and the warm embrace of milk is a match[a] made in heaven (hehe). But to make a matcha (or tea or coffee) latte, you need silky microfoam that won't dissolve when it hits the hot water. Enter the frother. Our favorite is from Instant and has multiple heat and froth level settings and an easy-to-navigate interface; it also whips up smooth, luscious foam that holds its structure when poured over tea.
Key Specs Capacity: 17 ounces * Weight: 2.2 pounds * Dimensions: 6.5 x 4.2 x 6 inches * Temperature settings: Cold, warm, hot * Foam settings: Stir only, latte, cappuccino * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe milk pitcher, wipe base clean with a damp cloth
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubNo one likes clumpy matcha (or, at least, no one we know), and an important part of making a silky cup is vigorously whisking the powder with hot water. “If you are looking to elevate your matcha latte at home,” says Cheng, “then investing in a good whisk is crucial.”
Key Specs Material: Bamboo * Dimensions: 4 x 2.3 inches * Dishwasher-safe:* Yes
“My go-to vessel to brew tea is a porcelain Gaiwan,” says Cheng. “Gaiwans are very versatile; they can be used to brew an unroasted oolong or an aged pu-erh.” This Chinese vessel consists of a bowl with a lid and a saucer, a kind of hybrid tea cup/pot. To use it, the bowl is warmed with hot water before rinsed tea leaves are added; then, hot water is poured inside and the lid is set on top as the tea steeps, You can pour tea into separate cups to serve, using the lid to catch the tea leaves, or simply drink it straight from the Gaiwan itself.
Key Specs Materials: Glazed ceramic * Dimensions: 3.75 x 3.25 inches * Stated capacity:* 4 ounces
While you can sip tea from your favorite mug (you know, the one with a sassy saying on it), sometimes it's nice to kick it up a notch with an elegant cup and saucer. This set from Pilivuyt has a classic look and, since it's made of ceramic, has great heat retention.
Key Specs Materials: Porcelain * Saucer diameter: 6.25 inches * Stated cup capacity:* 10 ounces
FAQsDo different teas require different water temperatures?The short answer is yes; different teas require different water temperatures for optimal flavor. Herbal teas, for example, require boiling water to express their subtleties, while green tea sings with temperatures between 150°F to 180°F.
How long should you steep tea?Tea steeping times vary according to tea type. Generally, steeping ranges from two to eight minutes. Green tea requires the least amount of time–two to four minutes–while oolong requires the commitment of five to eight minutes. Black teas, white teas, and herbal teas range from four to six minutes.
Is an electric kettle or stovetop kettle better?Neither is better. Electric kettles are plugged in and, if they’re a variable temperature kettle, can be set to a specific water temperature. They often turn off after a set period of time, so you can set it and forget it (though your water might go cold). Stovetop kettles, as their name implies, are heated on a stovetop, making them a simpler (though often longer) way of brewing hot water.
Why We’re the Experts * Abigail Clarkin is a contributing writer for Serious Eats. * She is an avid tea drinker and has quite a collection of teas and tea gear. She’s also tested tea infusers for Serious Eats. * For this story, Abigail interviewed Michelle Cheng, owner of Ceremony, a tea shop in Providence, Rhode Island. * We've written extensively about tea and tea-adjacent products over the years, including kettles of all kinds. * Grace Kelly is a commerce editor for Serious Eats. * She's tested a ton of gear, including grilling tongs, Deba knives, and tamagoyaki pans.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishMade with boiled chickpeas and seasoned with cumin, olive oil, and often garlic and lemon juice, baleela is a humble dish enjoyed across the Levant, especially in Lebanon and Syria. It’s so popular that you’ll find vendors walking the streets of old towns and neighborhoods calling out “baleela baleela'' in hopes of serving it to passersby. They’ll place a scoop of boiled chickpeas in a disposable paper cup, then dust the legumes with ground cumin and a drizzle of olive oil, before handing it over with a toothpick or plastic spoon.
While baleela was once mostly a street food, it can now be found in some hummus shops, as well as part of mezze spreads in restaurants in the Levant. In the version of baleela typically served in restaurants, some of the beans are often mashed lightly with the flavorings before they’re topped with more olive oil, cumin, and a sprinkling of toasted pine nuts. It sounds quite plain, but it is this very simplicity that allows the flavors of each ingredient to shine: creamy chickpeas, bright olive oil, and earthy cumin against the tart lemon sauce and smoky, buttery flavor of the toasted pine nuts. While baleela is perfectly satisfying on its own, the addition of the pine nuts brings a satisfying crunch and toastiness.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishIf you prefer your baleela to be thicker, lightly mashing a few of the chickpeas while mixing is a great way to add body and create a velvety mouthfeel. But if you want the distinct bite of individual chickpeas, you can certainly skip this step.
I am a big proponent of using good quality jarred or canned chickpeas in many dishes, but I do find this dish is much better with chickpeas you have soaked and boiled yourself. Not only do you have the flavorful chickpea braising liquid to use in the dish, but you can also control the exact level of doneness of the chickpeas.
Whenever I find myself boiling chickpeas for another recipe—like hummus b’tahini—I always prepare more than I need so I can scoop out a few spoonfuls to make a plate of this warming and fragrant dish. Like the vendors in the Levant, I call out baleela baleela to announce to my family that it's ready—and though I'm not serving it in a paper cup, it's delicious just the same.
In a large bowl, cover chickpeas with 6 cups (1.4L) cold water. Let stand at room temperature for at least 8 hours. Drain and rinse chickpeas thoroughly.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishIn a 6- to 8-quart Dutch oven or saucepan, cover chickpeas with enough water to cover by 2 inches (about 8 cups; about 1.9L) and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to a simmer, cover with lid slightly ajar, and cook until chickpeas are completely tender but not falling apart, 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes. Stir chickpeas occasionally and top off with more water if needed; chickpeas should be fully submerged at all times. (See notes if using canned chickpeas.)
Serious Eats / Mai KakishWhen chickpeas are cooked, set aside 1 cup of cooking liquid. Using a colander, drain chickpeas. (Reserve chickpea cooking liquid for reheating the dish if you plan on making this in advance.)
Serious Eats / Mai KakishIn a large bowl, whisk garlic, cumin, salt, lemon juice, and olive oil together until combined. Add cooked chickpeas to the bowl, along with 2 to 3 tablespoons of the reserved cooking liquid, and mix, using the back of the spoon to mash a few chickpeas. (This will help thicken it slightly.) Season to taste with lemon juice and salt.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishTo Serve: Garnish with toasted pine nuts and cumin and finish with a drizzle of olive oil. Serve with pita for scooping or enjoy with a spoon.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishNotesYou can use two 14-ounce cans of chickpeas, drained and rinsed well, in place of the dried chickpeas. In a medium (4- to 6-quart) pot, cover chickpeas generously with water and bring to a boil, then simmer over medium heat until beans are heated through before continuing with step 3.
Make-Ahead and StorageDried chickpeas can be cooked through the end of step 2 two days in advance and reheated before. When ready to eat, proceed from step 3 and assemble the dish.
The prepared baleela can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Reheat on the stove before serving, adding a few splashes of reserved chickpea cooking liquid as needed to loosen it up.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoAs a kid growing up in the Midwest, I first encountered arroz rojo, red rice, in lackluster Mexican restaurants as an unassuming side dish that I’d eat alongside tinga de pollo and refried beans. I’d take a few bites, but the greasy, not particularly flavorful rice mostly went unnoticed on my plate. Then in college in Los Angeles, arroz rojo was a cheap and filling side in my college cafeteria and at many fast-food joints. These versions of the tomato-based rice dish were more palatable, but I still didn’t pay much attention to it. In my mind, it was still essentially plate filler. It wasn't until I moved to Mexico as an adult that I learned to fully appreciate this simple side dish that I eat with friends and in-laws at my home in Sinaloa.
What is Arroz Rojo?Great arroz rojo consists of fluffy, perfectly cooked singular grains of rice cooked in a flavorful puréed tomato and chicken stock mixture. It’s well seasoned, aromatic, and rich without being heavy or greasy. It’s is a well known Mexican staple, and it’s easy to see why. It’s relatively quick to make and reheats well in the microwave or on the stove with a little broth, making it convenient fare for daily meals as well as for get-togethers of all sizes. It pairs well with almost anything: chiles rellenos, grilled chicken, barbacoa, mole, albóndigas, or a simple pot of beans, to name just a few dishes.
It’s a dish packed with flavor, but only if it’s prepared with care. The rice dish is fairly simple: Softened onion and garlic are blended with tomatoes to form the flavorful base. The rice is toasted in oil, then cooked in the blended sauce with chicken broth. After that, serrano chile is added, along with carrots and peas for a classic combination that adds color, texture, and sweetness.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoArroz rojo can be made with virtually any vegetable instead of the peas and carrots—think corn, green beans, potato, and squash, to name a few. It can also be prepped with any type of broth. In Sinaloa, one of my favorite variations involves shrimp broth and fresh or dried shrimp; this dish is often eaten as a main course during Semana Santa when red meat is forbidden. With so many variations to choose from, I decided to focus on one of the most classic versions of arroz rojo. This version is flavorful and flexible—just the rice with the typical additions of peas and carrots. Here’s how to cook it perfectly at home every time.
How to Prevent Gummy RiceAs mentioned above, great arroz rojo features plump and fluffy singular grains of cooked rice. Like with many rice dishes, the first question is if and how to get rid of extra starch, which can turn the final product into a gummy block. For plain white rice, the standard is to rinse the starch off, over and over (and over). Once the water runs clear, the rice is ready to cook up into perfectly fluffy, separate grains.
But I knew that not all cooks rinse their rice before making arroz rojo. So does it really make a difference? I prepared batches with the rice rinsed five times, like I usually do for white rice, and compared it to batches rinsed once or not at all. The difference between unrinsed and once-rinsed rice was smaller than I expected (though the flavor seemed a bit cleaner on the rinsed rice). The rice grains I’d rinsed five times were barely more defined than the once-rinsed batch, though I could see plenty of milky white starch running off in the repeated rinses. But if one rinse left so much starch behind, why didn’t more rinses make more of a difference?
After investigating (and re-reading Tim Chin’s deep dive into the science of cooking white rice), I finally connected the dots to something an acquaintance had mentioned about how toasting the rice grains improved the final texture. Frying the dry rice grains in oil actually destroys much of the surface starch (not to mention the warm toasted-grain flavor it adds). That’s why one rinse is plenty for this dish.
Use Just Enough Oil for Rich, But Not Heavy, RiceAnother concern was the amount of oil. How could I make a tasty, hearty arroz rojo without it turning greasy? A certain amount of oil is needed to prevent sticking and allow the flavors to bloom to their full potential as you fry up the onions and garlic and toast the rice. For this recipe, I found that a tablespoon of oil was sufficient to soften the onions and garlic before transferring them to the blender to blend with the tomatoes. Adding another tablespoon of oil to what was left in the pan was enough to thoroughly coat the rice to ensure it toasted evenly.
Those two tablespoons of oil plus the fat content of a rich, homemade chicken stock or high-quality store-bought stock resulted in rice that was flavorful but not heavy.
How to Build Rich, Savory Flavor in Arroz RojoAfter about a dozen batches, I had the texture just right but the flavor wasn’t where I had hoped. My first instinct was to more deeply brown the rice, onions, and garlic before adding liquid to build savory flavor. The greater the effect of the Maillard reaction, the better the result, right?
Wrong. After the rice passed golden and had started to brown, it began to crumble into little pieces. Instead of fluffy individual grains, I ended up with a paste of cooked rice crumbs. I also found that the flavors of the onion and garlic mellowed and sweetened so much when I cooked them for an extended time that the resulting arroz rojo was insipid. I found success going in the opposite direction. I cut off the rice-toasting process when it just turned golden and only just softened the onion and garlic. In the resulting dish, a little sharpness from the alliums balanced the umami of the chicken broth and the sweetness of the peas and carrots.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFor cooking arroz rojo, a combination of blended fresh tomato and chicken stock are standard. I generally prefer the more nuanced, balanced flavor of homemade stock and that’s what I prefer to use in this recipe, but store-bought chicken broth also works. Many cooks in Sinaloa, where I live, prepare the rice with water and a spoonful of bouillon powder. Bouillon is a common and familiar ingredient in Mexico and there is something comforting about the bouillon flavor that also works well with this dish, in my opinion.
Cues for Perfectly Cooked RiceThe other key to achieving those fluffy, perfectly cooked rice grains is using the right amount of water. Theoretically, a one-to-one ratio of rice to water is enough to cook rice, but in practice some of that water always escapes the pan in the form of steam. This recipe includes a ratio of one part rice to one and a half parts water (or in this case, broth), plus whatever amount of water is contained in the blended tomatoes and onions. With this quantity of water, my rice cooked in about 12 minutes without becoming pasty.
The precise cooking time can vary considerably based on small differences like the pot used, the fit of the pot lid, and the exact heat level of the burner you use at home. Luckily, there are other clues that can help determine when the rice is finished. By peeking under the lid, you can see if the broth is visibly boiling. If so, you still have at least a couple minutes before the liquid is fully absorbed and it’s time to turn off the heat. The other major clue is the steam: When the rice is ready, the amount of steam coming off the pot decreases and the smell of cooked food becomes more concentrated. If it smells toasted or burnt, that’s a pretty clear signal that it has gone too far (though it’s still edible if you don’t mix in the toasted parts at the bottom).
After cooking the rice, it’s important to leave it covered for at least 10 minutes to finish cooking and absorbing the steam. Fluff the rice to mix it, and then serve it as a side, garnished with cilantro if desired. The cooked chile can be discarded or thinly sliced and served on top of the rice for more heat.
And there you have it: In just about 40 minutes, you can make arroz rojo that nobody will simply push around their plate. It's a wonderful side for myriad dinners, and after cooking arroz rojo dozens of times over a couple weeks, I can say that, reheated and then topped with a generous portion of avocado and a little hot sauce, it also makes an amazing lunch.
In a large bowl, rinse rice in plenty of water, swishing the rice around with your fingers to wash off as much starch as possible. Drain well in a fine-mesh strainer, then spread on a paper-towel lined plate or clean kitchen towel to dry for at least 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoIn a 2- or 3-quart saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring frequently until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer mixture to a blender, leaving as much oil in the pan as possible. Add 1/4 cup (60ml) broth, tomatoes, and salt to the blender. Pulse to combine, then blend until completely smooth; set aside.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoIn the saucepan with the reserved oil, add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add rice and cook, stirring occasionally, until rice is golden and smells toasted, 5 to 8 minutes. Pour in the tomato mixture, stir to combine, and simmer until thickened, 3 to 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoAdd remaining 1 1/4 cups (290ml) broth and mix gently, taking care not to agitate the rice more than necessary. Stab the serrano chile once or twice with a fork to help release its flavor, then add it to the broth. Scatter the peas and carrots over the rice.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoCover and cook over medium heat until liquid is no longer visible on surface of rice, minimal steam is being generated, and rice has a noticeable “cooked” smell, 10 to 15 minutes. (You can open the lid a little at the 10-minute mark to check the rice’s progress, but try not to let too much steam out.)
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoTurn off heat and let rice sit, covered, for at least 10 or up to 20 minutes to absorb any remaining liquid. Fluff the rice with a fork and gently stir the peas and carrots throughout the rice, discard chile if desired, and serve.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSpecial Equipment2-to 3-quart saucepan with lid, colander, blender
NotesCarrot skins will oxidize slightly and darken while cooking so if you want picture-perfect orange pieces, peel your carrots.
Shrimp VariationFor a one-pan meal, substitute shrimp broth for chicken broth and add 150g chopped fresh shrimp at the same time as the peas and carrots. Cover and cook as usual. Serves 2 or 3 as a main course.
Make-Ahead and StorageThis recipe is at its most flavorful fresh from the pot, but also keeps well refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days. To reheat, stir in tablespoon of chicken stock or water and microwave until hot.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoI first tried cazuelitas—the Mexican pot-shaped edible vessels made from a mixture of masa, mashed potatoes, and, at times, shredded cheese—at a friend’s dinner party years ago. I was impressed by the marriage of masa and mashed potato that produced the savory fried donut-like vessel filled with a potent chile-laced salsa. While the first version I tried was filled with a fresh salsa, I’ve since learned that one of the best things about cazuelitas is that they welcome nearly any filling.
Since my first experience, I’ve made and eaten many versions of these fried masa shells and I’ve tried them with a range of filling options. My version below of cazuelitas are deep-fried until the exterior is crisp and golden-brown, while the inside remains soft and fluffy. Instead of using a classic Mexican filling option like fresh salsa, thinly sliced dressed cabbage, or chopped meat, I instead chose a rich and savory mushroom, caramelized onion, and crème frâiche filling that’s somewhat influenced by French cuisine. The jammy texture of the cooked filling is a welcome contrast to the lightly crisped fried masa.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoOnce filled, the cazuelitas are then dunked into a buttery chicken stock glaze to finish. While they work best as an antojito, or appetizer, they are so rich and satisfying they can also be served as a full meal. There’s no denying that cazuelitas are a labor of love, but they’re so worth it. The recipe includes multiple steps—the making, shaping, and frying of the masa, cooking the filling and the glaze, and the final assembly—but the process of shaping the cazuelitas is fun and the dish is impressive.
Tips for Shaping CazuelitasCazuelitas are easier to make than other masa shapes such as tortillas or tetelas since you don’t need to haul out a press or fold any edges with precision. At their simplest, the masa just needs to be rolled into a ball and poked about halfway down into the center to create cazuelitas’ signature round casserole-pot-like shape. I like to stretch the interior a bit thinner than some versions I’ve eaten so I can load them up with even more filling. Just make sure not to stretch the walls as thin as a tortilla. I find that keeping the walls of the masa shell thicker provides the ideal balance of crisp to fluffy once fried.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFilling the CazuelitasThe crater-like shape and neutral flavor of a masa harina and potato dough allow for an endless variety of fillings; chorizo, beans, stewed meats, and vegetables, such as thinly sliced cabbage, radish, and avocado, are common choices. As noted above, this recipe breaks from tradition a bit and features a filling of mushrooms, caramelized onions, and crème fraîche.
The filling is umami-rich and the jammy onions contrast nicely with the crisp outer layer of the cazuelitas. I use Serious Eats senior culinary editor Leah Colins’ technique for making sautéed mushrooms to cook down a large batch of mushrooms with steam and extract their earthiness. A small amount of crème fraîche forms a cohesive mixture with the mushrooms and onions and creates a creamy texture. Make sure to make the filling first before starting the masa shells. You can gently reheat the mushroom mixture before filling the cazuelitas, or serve it closer to room temperature. It is delicious both ways.
Glaze the Cazuelitas to FinishI chose to finish the filled cazuelitas with a glaze that’s similar to a chicken pan sauce (yet another break from traditional cazuelitas). I love how it clings to the masa and has a potent savory flavor. I also added a touch of Mexican flavors in the form of cilantro, lime, and red pepper flakes. The hint of heat and acidity from the red pepper and lime tames the richness of the dish.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoThe glaze’s texture is just as important as its flavor. I wanted to make sure that the glaze was thick enough to cling to the filled masa shells to form a shiny flavorful coating. If the glaze was too thin, it wouldn’t stick to the cazuelitas and its flavor would be lost. To guarantee a perfect glaze-like texture, I added gelatin to the mixture to thicken it slightly. The result was a potent pan sauce that coated every part of the filled masa shell once dipped.There are a lot of elements in this dish, but I enjoy that each ingredient is prominent without overshadowing the rest.
For the filling: In a 12-inch nonstick or cast-iron skillet,bring onions, 1/2 cup water, butter, and salt to boil over medium- high heat. Cover and cook until water has evaporated and onions start to sizzle, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoUncover, and use rubber spatula to gently press onions into the skillet. Cook, without stirring, until the bottom of onions are lightly browned, about 30 seconds. Stir onions, scraping fond from the skillet, then gently press onions into skillet again. Repeat pressing, cooking, and stirring until onions are softened, well browned, and slightly sticky, 15 to 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. Rinse and wipe the skillet clean with paper towels.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoReturn now-empty skillet to medium-high heat and melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter in skillet. Add mushrooms, cover and cook until the mushrooms have released their liquid, about 8 minutes. Uncover, and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are browned, 5 to 10 minutes. Return caramelized onions to the skillet and stir to combine. Stir in crème fraîche, and cook until the mixture is warmed through, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste; remove from heat and set aside.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFor the cazuelitas: In a large saucepan, cover potatoes with cold water by at least 2 inches. Bring water to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to medium and simmer until potatoes are softened and can be pierced easily with a paring knife, about 15 minutes. Drain potatoes. Set a ricer over the now-empty pot and pass the potatoes through it (or use a potato masher to mash the potatoes until smooth).
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoIn a large bowl, whisk together masa harina and salt to combine then stir in the 1 1/2 cups (360ml) water to form a dough. Add mashed potatoes and use a wooden spoon or your hands to mix until homogenous. Divide the mixture into 15 equal pieces and shape into balls.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoWorking with 1 dough ball at a time, use your finger to make an indentation about halfway through at the top of the ball. Gently tap your finger around the interior as you rotate the cazuelita to form a cup shape with thick walls. The finished cazuelita should have a thick rim and deep crater that’s about 1-inch in diameter. It’s OK if the shaped cazuelitas have some small cracks. Set aside on a large plate or baking sheet and repeat with the remaining balls.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200℉. In a large Dutch oven or pot, heat oil over medium-high heat to 325℉ (175°C) (oil should measure about 1 1/2 inches deep). Working in batches of 5 at a time, carefully add cazuelitas, crater side up, and fry until light golden brown, 4 to 6 minutes. While frying, the cazuelitas should be almost completely submerged in oil. Flip and continue to fry until golden brown and center of dough registers 200℉ (93°C) on an instant-read thermometer, 2 more minutes. Transfer cazuelitas to a paper towel-lined baking sheet and keep warm in the oven. Repeat frying with the remaining cazuelitas. Hold warm in the oven while preparing the glaze.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFor the glaze: In a large bowl, add chicken stock and sprinkle gelatin on top and let sit for 10 minutes. In a small skillet, heat 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat until shimmering. Add garlic and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring frequently, until softened and fragrant, about 30 seconds. Pour stock mixture into skillet, bring to a boil, and cook until the sauce is reduced to a glaze that coats the back of a spoon, 6 to 10 minutes. Lower heat to low and whisk in remaining 1 tablespoon butter until emulsified, about 15 seconds. Turn off the heat and whisk in lime juice and cilantro. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoTo assemble, briefly roll each cazuelita in the glaze. Add 2 tablespoons of filling to each and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, using. Serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSpecial Equipment12-inch nonstick or cast-iron skillet, ricer or potato masher, instant-read thermometer, large saucepan, Dutch oven or large pot, rimmed baking sheet
Good to KnowCazuelitas should not be confused with cazuelas, which are a type of dish prepared in a clay pot. They are, however, identical in shape to chocoyotes, which are masa dumplings served in soup.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe cooked filling can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days before using.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI love ketchup so much that when I came to work at this site years ago now, I felt it was important to align myself with the condiment near-immediately, including this little admission on my bio page when it first was published:
A bold move, in hindsight! I stand by it.
In fact, I’ve never understood people’s aversion to-meets-commitment-to hating ketchup. It’s synonymous with some of the universe’s greatest joys: Cheeseburgers! French fries! Barbecue sauces! SANDWICHES! What’s not to love about a perfectly sickly-sweet thing that makes life’s best and saltiest offerings better?
Still, when I suggested a ketchup taste test as the latest installment in our taste-testing series, I was met with skepticism: "We have to eat straight ketchup??" "What kind of ketchup do we have to eat?" You know—the kinds of things people who don't truly adore ketchup say upon learning they are mandated to consume it. Undeterred, I gathered five big brands of ketchup that you’re likely to find at your local supermarket and forced the team to partake in a blind tasted. (Hey, I also gave them fries, so there were fewer complaints than I expected.) We methodically, empirically, scientifically! tasted its way through them all in a quest to identify the very best. And joke’s on my coworkers, because I am deeply pleased to report that they loved every minute of doing it!
…We all like ketchup! Some more than others, sure, but enough that I’m going to change everyone’s bio pages to include mentions of such right after I publish this piece.
Without further adieu: the ketchups.
The Contenders* Annie’s Organic Ketchup * Heinz Tomato Ketchup * Hunt’s Tomato Ketchup * Primal Kitchen Organic Ketchup (Unsweetened) * 365 Tomato Ketchup
The CriteriaIt’s not easy to agree on what makes A Good Ketchup. That’s mostly because everyone thinks they hate—or are better than?? Yikes!—the condiment. Or as previously mentioned, if they don’t actually hate it, they’ve doubled down to a polarizing opinion of it online (and that opinion is: “KETCHUP IS ONLY GOOD THE WAY I USE IT.”). That’s so silly! Like everything else, there are good ketchups just as much as there are bad ketchups, and a really, truly good ketchup serves to make your go-to savory staples better with its proper balance of sweetness, acid, and spice.
That balance is crucial, we found over the course of the tasting. If too sweet, ketchup can eat like chewable juice. If too acidic, it gives vinegar-based salad dressing. If too spicy, it simply does not contribute to the sacred experience that is eating french fries.
In addition to smell, taste, and color, I asked our team to evaluate the ease of—and I’m so sorry—squirting. I duct-taped the bottles to remove all identifying labels and qualities and asked each person to shoot each ketchup at a singular french fry in order to gauge how seamlessly they could control the flow of ketchup to get the exact quantity they wanted. This ended up being an excellent gauge of ketchup looseness (bad! Loose ketchup is bad! Do I have to tell you why loose ketchup is bad?), as well as a ridiculous team-bonding experiment. Who else gets to play “hide the ketchup bottle?” at work? If you do, are you required to take it very seriously? OK. Let’s ketchup.
The RankingsHeinz Tomato Ketchup: 4.45/5Imagine opening this taste test and finding a different result! The notes from this test are delightfully predictable. “This is the red I think of when I think of ketchup,” Amanda wrote. “What I think of as the classic American ketchup flavor (which I like!),” Megan noted. “A clear spice profile,” Daniel said. I didn’t participate in this test (trust me, I’m a reliable narrator, etc., etc.), but watching other people enjoy this moment made me want to skip off to the nearest McDonald’s for a large Diet Coke and a meal of medium fries.
Hunt’s Tomato Ketchup: 3.63/5Not only was Hunt’s offering the easiest to squirt (...I really am so sorry, I’m actively pursuing a good synonym—spurt? Eject? Oh god. Squeeze?? Maybe squeeze?!), but it also boasted the group’s favorite color and spice profile. Genevieve wrote: “[It’s a] pretty vibrant red. [It] reminds of canned tomatoes if sweetened and slightly acidified.” It was distinctly more savory than Heinz’s version, hitting you with a gentle clove-y aroma before the french fry and sticking with you a while after the fry is gone.
365 Tomato Ketchup: 3 / 5Onions! Unclear if they were dried or sautéed and tossed all up in everything (just kidding: ‘organic onion powder’ is the fifth of nine ingredients listed on this bottle), but it tasted like a bunch of both all in one bite. TL;DR: It was also a more savory, smellier offering. Better for sauces than for straight dipping.
Annie’s Organic Ketchup: 2.94/5Each tester noted a clearer vinegar tang in their Annie’s bites. In a fun way! Megan opined the ketchup was “tart and vinegary but with a nice balance of sweetness, yielding a bolder, slightly more complex flavor than some of the others.” Where they also agreed, though, was that managing the squirt (sorry, squeeze) was more difficult: It’s a thinner ketchup, one meant to already exist in a dipping container rather than be squirted squeezed for dipping, if that makes sense.
Primal Kitchen Organic Ketchup (Unsweetened): 2.88/5Alright. A few things here: Firstly, we made all efforts to secure the sweetened version of this offering, but could only procure unsweetened versions, and, wouldn’t you know it, the group noted it was decidedly lacking in sweetness. Secondly, it was brown. And…wouldn’t you know it…it turns out we prefer ketchups that are red. Regardless, squirts (sorry, squeezes) of Primal Kitchen held their shape well, allowing for nicely contained (brown) dipping pools for fries, and all the sample fries went anyway.
Our Testing MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted completely blind and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample 1 first, while taster B will taste sample 6 first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria that vary from sample to sample. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation of actual results possible.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSo I'm back, back again, with another bizarre TikTok trend. This one is spicy. Is it me, or does everything seem fiery lately? Honestly, I won't mind when the flamin' hot era of the internet is over. This time, TikTokers are bringing the heat with an oldy-but-goody: jalapeños. This time, influencers are freezing jalapeños and using rasp graters to coat their food in what they call “jalapeño dust.”
Testing Jalapeño DustMost of the videos showcase this green powder being shaved atop savory, carby things like pizza, potatoes, or mac and cheese, but others shave it and eat it as is—as in with a spoon. Do not ask me why. This trend got me thinking. Firstly, is this good? No one (or very few people) on social media ever says what they've made is subpar. Everything is fire or so good. I don't believe anyone. So, as a born skeptic, I decided to try it for myself.
I froze a few jalapeños, grabbed a rasp-style grater (aka Microplane), and got myself something carby to grate them on. I opted to grate my jalapeño on tomato focaccia instead of pizza because I cannot abide pizza that's not piping hot and I knew my testing vehicles would potentially be sitting around the test kitchen for a few hours. Focaccia typically tastes great at room temperature or hot, making it perfect for this test.
Unfortunately, even warm, the focaccia with the frozen jalapeño dust was not a revelation like every video implied, but it wasn't bad. The contrast of cold and icy yet spicy on the bread was definitely unlike anything I've ever experienced. While my reaction to the jalapeño dust was an enthusiastic meh, Serious Eats editorial director Daniel Gritzer was decidedly not a fan of its flavor or texture.
Ultimately, the entire Serious Eats culinary team questioned why you would do this. When a jalapeño (or anything) is grated so finely, it defrosts pretty quickly. While I know that freezing a high-moisture food will make it grate more efficiently and actually seemed to prevent the jalapeño from causing my eyes to water, I can't think of a time when I would go out of my way to use this technique. It just tasted like cold, concentrated, jalapeño flavoring. Why would you want that? And when the focaccia was heated, the jalapeño dust disintegrated into mush. I understand that there are committed spice stans out there who are always looking for their next spice fix, but jalapeños aren't even that spicy.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Case for—and Against—Grating Other Frozen FoodsWhile we ultimately gave the grated jalapeño a failing grade, we knew that this cheffy technique of grating frozen food had some reasonable and well established applications, especially in fine dining circles. (Think a flurry of foie gras grated atop your dish tableside.) So, we figured: Why not try freezing a grating a bunch of foods to see if you should whip out your Microplane for your next dinner party or snack?
I tested a wide variety of savory foods and various fruits, grating them atop either the focaccia or Greek yogurt. The yogurt's mild, savory base complemented the sweet shavings, allowing the vibrant flavors of the fresh fruit to shine without being overshadowed by additional sweeteners.
Foods That Are Worth Freezing and ShavingSalamiAfter the jalapeño, I tried shaving frozen salami atop the focaccia, using Nostrano pink peppercorn salami. Grating frozen cured sausage was a recommendation from Daniel, who’s done it in the past to bring a punch of sausage flavor to various dishes. The salami required a lot more muscle to grate than the jalapeño, but it was well worth the effort. The glorious meat shavings dusted a piece of plain focaccia like a deconstructed charcuterie plate. I was wowed by my first bite—there was only a light dusting but the meaty, peppery flavor was robust. It was as if shaving the meat concentrated the flavor. If cold salami sounds gross to you, you should know that by the time it hit my lips, I could hardly tell the meat had been frozen—it was just cool to the touch. The next time you want to liven up your plain piece of hearty bread, pizza, pasta, or focaccia, I highly recommend a dusting of salami.
MozzarellaWe already know grated cheese tastes wonderful on top of bread, but frozen grated mozzarella has even more salty, umami flavor than mozzarella eaten right out of the fridge, and a small dusting of frozen mozzarella seriously punched up my focaccia. (Sticking a ball of mozz in the freezer briefly is also a good way to make it easier to grate with a regular grater.)
BananasI’m one of those weirdos who doesn’t eat bananas, ever really. There’s something about the smell that doesn’t sit well with me. Luckily, frozen bananas do not have a smell! When shaved, they have a sweet, fluffy consistency, like, dare I say, ice cream? Not quite, but it makes a nice shaved ice, and a small amount of banana dust sweetened my yogurt nicely.
AppleFor this test, I chose bright red Macintosh apples, and I loved watching the red and white flecks fall atop my yogurt when I grated it. The apples' texture changed quite a bit after being frozen—it was much smoother than I expected. The taste was bright and fresh, like biting into a fresh off-the-vine apple. I was into it.
PearDespite its less-than-ripe state, the pear I froze and grated offered a unique sweet-tart flavor that was both concentrated and juicy. However, it turned mushy and brown quite quickly, which was unappealing, so eat this immediately if you do try it.
Taste Pretty Good, but Don’t BotherMushroomsAfter the success of the frozen salami, I tried shaving another savory ingredient onto my focaccia: a frozen baby bella mushroom. I’m not usually a fan of raw mushrooms but this light dusting of fluffy, earthy mushrooms was compelling. I enjoyed the concentrated mushroom flavor that was released by the fine grating, but unfortunately the mushroom shavings very quickly melted and got mushy. Perhaps a cold application would work best here, such as in a salad. But after brainstorming various uses for grated frozen mushrooms in the test kitchen, we were really at a loss as to when this technique would make more sense than more traditionally prepared mushrooms.
MangoI had low hopes for the mango since the fruit I was able to find for testing was not at peak ripeness, so I was pleasantly surprised by how grating concentrated its fruity flavor. It was juicy and bright and lightened up an otherwise flavorless yogurt. Still, grating a whole frozen mango is highly annoying since you have to peel or cut it before freezing it to avoid grating through the thick skin. I wouldn't do it again since pre-frozen mango cubes are readily available, and I could easily grate those instead.
LimeThe lime wasn't nearly as bitter as the lemon I tested (more on that below), likely because of the lower pith-to-pulp ratio, and freezing the lime seemed to slightly intensify the flavor, so I might consider doing this again if I didn’t have enough lime for a recipe and needed to stretch the flavor. Otherwise, if I need lime zest, I’ll just use a fresh, unfrozen lime.
No. Stop. Don’t Ever Try This.AvocadoAmong the savory things I grated was an avocado, which tasted very much like nothing. Finely grating avocado is basically the same as mashing it, only much more difficult. Hard fail.
TomatoOffseason tomatoes are truly sad, and even the ones labeled heirloom were watery red vessels that tasted like ghosts of their summer selves. Would you want your Italian ice to taste like tomato juice? No. I do not recommend this.
Lemon I was hoping that freezing a lemon and grating just past the pith would deliver a concentrated flavor, similar to the previously-tested fruits. I was wrong. It was more bitter than any lemon you have ever tasted. Do yourself a favor and stick to fresh (non-frozen) lemon zest or juice.
PeachIn my opinion, out-of-season fruit should just be discontinued. I regret even attempting this with peaches in the spring in the Northeast; it was as if the peach was frost-bitten. I will try this again once peaches are in season because I know in my heart that frozen peaches are good.
Bottom LineI hate to admit it, given my initial suspicions, but I enjoyed the vast majority of the foods that I froze and shaved, especially the salami and pretty much all the fruits. However, I could not imagine manually grating even one whole piece of fruit, and if I tried it would be melted into mush by the time I finished. They make shaved ice machines for a reason.
Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleSpringtime at the farmers market is pretty magical. After several long, cold months, marketgoers are greeted with bunches of asparagus, ramps, green garlic, radishes, lettuces, and so much more. This collection includes a variety of spring soups that take advantage of the season's produce, as well as ones that are great for repurposing leftover Easter ham.
Asparagus and Tarragon Velouté (Dairy-Free Creamy Asparagus Soup)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltNo cream is required to make this bright, vegetal soup creamy and velvety-smooth. Adding two tablespoons of flour while sweating the leeks and fennel lightly thicken the soup without deadening the flavor of the asparagus and herbs. For extra creaminess, a rich and tangy spoonful of crème fraîche can be swirled in at the end.
Ham and Bean SoupSerious Eats / Liz VoltzThis recipe results in a rich, hearty, and undeniably satisfying soup loaded with navy beans, smoky ham, and lots of vegetables. Perfect for any leftover Easter ham!
Split Pea and Ham SoupSerious Eats / Fred HardyThis no-fuss, deeply flavorful version of the classic is another great recipe for using up any Easter ham. For a faster result, see our pressure cooker version.
Chilled Minty Carrot Soup With Dukkah YogurtSerious Eats / Vicky WasikWhen the weather is warm enough for chilled soup but tomatoes are still out of season, this is our go-to recipe. This carrot soup is smooth and creamy, despite there being no dairy in the soup base. Fresh mint adds a bright herbal note, while a creamy dollop of spiced yogurt finishes it off.
The Best Minestrone SoupSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltKenji's recipe for minestrone is easily adaptable to any season, including spring: asparagus, leeks, radishes, watercress, and peas are all covered in his handy vegetable time table. If you're looking for a minestrone-like soup better suited for late spring, see Daniel's summer-friendly ribollita recipe.
Miso Soup With Mixed Seasonal VegetablesSerious Eats / Vicky WasikFeaturing radish, pea shoots, and a chiffonade of Swiss chard, this savory soup is perfect for spring. The broth is a simple, delicate dashi, seasoned with a blend of shiro and aka miso.
Asparagus and Ramp Soup With YogurtSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThis verdant soup is made from two of the best vegetables springtime has to offer. Yogurt adds both a touch of dairy richness and good acidity.
Shchavleviy Borsch (Ukrainian Green Borsch)Serious Eats / Larisa NiedleMade with a rich pork broth, tart sorrel, spring onions, and green garlic, this green borsch celebrates the abundance of spring and early summer.
Mapo Beans (White Beans Cooked in the Style of Mapo Tofu)Serious Eats / Sasha MarxStanding in for silken tofu, creamy and flavorful white beans and their rich cooking liquid give this quick stew body and complement the assertive punch of chile-bean paste and Sichuan peppercorns. Sasha uses a dozen ramps in this recipe (!), so if you're wondering what to do with your farmers market impulse buy, look no further.
Hot or Cold Creamy Lettuce SoupSerious Eats / Vicky WasikLettuce floods into farmers markets come late spring. If you purchased more than you can fashion into salad and it's starting to look a little limp, Daniel has the perfect answer: lettuce soup. It's surprisingly good, whether served hot or cold, with a pleasant sweetness and clean, vegetal flavor.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishMany salads are an afterthought, but not fattoush—the many contrasting textures and flavors in this vegetable and pita salad make it a star in its own right. It is often the salad of choice at Arab dinner parties because it is substantial enough to satisfy someone who may prefer to not eat meat, but is still light and refreshing enough to complement heavier dishes. It has become emblematic of iftar dinners, and rarely have I sat at a Ramadan iftar table without a platter of fattoush. Fattoush’s popularity for iftar and in general could in part be due to the fact that it’s nutritious because of the variety of vegetables it includes, but also because it’s customizable and a good way to use whatever greens and vegetables you have at home. Plus, many of the elements of fattoush can be prepared ahead, which makes it a simple dish to assemble.
Like other fatteh recipes, fattoush is derived from the Arabic word “fatt,”meaning to break bread into morsels and steep in a liquid like a soup or stew. Fattoush is a variation on that word, using the suffix “oush,” which is often used endearingly in nicknames or to refer to cute things in several Arabic dialects.
Fattoush is a traditional Levantine dish eaten across Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, and Palestine throughout the year. While stories about its creation and naming abound, it’s likely that its origin, like that of many Arabic dishes, harkens back to times of austerity, when various ingredients like meat, legumes, or produce were either not readily available or expensive. Bread was often used to bulk things up and turn other pantry staples, like legumes, into a meal. Nowadays, however, people make the effort to prepare bread specially for fattoush by frying or toasting pieces of pita, and sometimes even rolling them into pretty snail-like shapes before frying.
Historically, the primary ingredients used to make fattoush were tomatoes, cucumbers, and bread. Over time, it has evolved into a more intricate salad with a base of lettuce and purslane and, in addition to the traditional tomatoes and cucumber, it may include scallions, parsley, mint, bell peppers, and radishes, along with the quintessential toasted bread. Lemony purslane complements the sharpness of the tomatoes and the pomegranate molasses, and the parsley and mint provide a bright herbaceousness. The only ingredient in this recipe that can be tricky to find is purslane, though you can often find it at farmers’ markets, as well as at well-stocked grocery stores. If you can’t find it, you can substitute with mixed spring greens, baby spring, or more lettuce. (Just avoid arugula or kale because they can be overpowering.)
How fattoush is presented varies according to preference. Many opt to top the salad with bread to keep it crispy, allowing each person to mix their portion upon serving, while others prefer to mix everything together before serving. I find the latter more flavorful, even if the presentation is not as striking. For an even more elaborate version, some people, including myself, grate white cheese—akkawi, nabulsi, or halloumi all work—over the salad, along with a generous sprinkling of ground sumac. These garnishes make the salad even more beautiful while also bringing a more complex flavor. Halloumi’s deep savoriness and sumac’s bright tartness complement one another, while also highlighting the punchy dressing of lemon juice and pomegranate molasses. Tossed together, the salad is crisp, refreshing, and keeps you coming back for more.
For the Pita Chips: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350ºF (175ºC). Spread pita on a rimmed baking sheet and bake, using a wooden spoon or flexible spatula to stir halfway through cooking, until squares are completely dry, toasted, crisp, and beginning to darken in color, about 15 minutes. Let pita cool fully, about 15 minutes. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Dressing: In a small screw-top jar, combine olive oil, lemon juice, pomegranate molasses, garlic, and salt. Tightly seal and shake vigorously until fully combined, about 30 seconds.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishIn a large, wide bowl, combine romaine lettuce, purslane, parsley, mint, scallions, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, pepper, radishes, and the toasted pita. Pour all of the dressing over the vegetables and, with clean hands and wearing gloves if desired, very lightly toss to evenly coat salad with dressing. Season to taste with salt. Transfer to a serving bowl, top with grated halloumi, and sprinkle with the sumac. Serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentRimmed baking sheet, box grater
NotesIn a pinch, homemade pita chips can be substituted with store-bought pita chips.
You can find pomegranate molasses in Middle Eastern grocery stores, well-stocked supermarkets, and online. It’s important to use good quality pomegranate molasses in this dish because it has nowhere to hide. Look for pomegranate molasses where the only ingredient is pomegranates. There should be no sugar, thickeners, or stabilizers, and it should have the texture of runny honey. (Pomegranate molasses that’s extremely thick is likely adulterated with some kind of thickener and/or stabilizer.)
Make-Ahead and StorageOnce cool, the dried pita can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.
Dressing can be made a day in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container.
Serious Eats / Kristin KempaNatural wine or “natty wine,” as the kids are calling it these days, may be trending, but it’s not a flash in the pan. The term natural wine refers to a collection of winemaking practices and techniques. In search of what really defines this genre, we spoke with Holly Berrigan, a sommelier and the founder of MYSA Natural Wine, about how to define (and shop for) natural wine. While consumers may struggle to understand what makes a bottle natural or not—the wine industry is not known for clarity in labeling and branding—there are a handful of key indicators to look for when buying and drinking great natural wine. And surprise: None of them include the word “funky.”
What Is Natural Wine?There are plenty of industry terms used to describe natural wine. If you’ve recently purchased eggs in a grocery store, you’ll understand this concept: Some cartons are labeled organic, some free-range, and others, simply, “all natural.” The natural wine industry operates similarly. Here’s a breakdown of three common terms:
Organic WineThis is a definitive label. A winemaker must be certified as organic to use the terminology to market their wine. But organically grown wine grapes are only a part of the winemaking equation: “Organic” refers to what happens in the vineyard and nothing more. Spraying for pests is regulated and restricted, although some preventative treatments are still allowed under the organic label. "Around 10% of vineyards," Berrigan says, "are certified organic."
Biodynamic WineAnother vineyard-specific label, biodynamic agriculture involves a complex set of agricultural practices, timetables, and rituals based around a concept of universal connectedness. Sounds a little woo-woo? That’s fair. But biodynamic grape-growing is more than just farming by vibes. Biodynamic farmers typically meet and exceed organic standards, operating with the understanding that every choice made has a ripple effect on the health of soil, crops, and, finally, personal health.
Natural WineSerious Eats / Russell KilgoreJust because a wine is organic or biodynamic doesn’t mean it’s natural. “For natural wine, or low-intervention wine, we’re talking about what happens inside the winery itself,” Berrigan says. She notes spontaneous fermentation and natural yeast as two hugely important elements required for natural wine. “In conventional winemaking, the fermentation process is forced using a selective yeast. In natural wine, native yeast is used—that’s the yeast that’s ambient in the air around us.”
Why would a winemaker choose natural yeast over a more stable, predictable product? “It’s more interesting,” Berrigan explains. She gives grapes grown in Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts, as a prime example: The resulting wines tend to have a minty, menthol-forward character, which is reflective of the eucalyptus trees surrounding many vineyards. There’s also greater variation from year to year in natural winemaking, which some consumers prefer. Of course, the parallel is true. Says Berrigan, “A conventional wine will taste the same every single time you drink it because they’re making it taste like that.” Wine drinkers who prefer predictability tend to gravitate toward conventional wines. Now that we’ve defined some of the key terminology, it’s time to talk about one of the most misunderstood—and controversial—ingredients in winemaking.
Are Sulfites In Wine Bad?Mention the word “sulfites” within a 50-mile radius of a natural winemaker or industry professional, and you’ll hear their groans…but probably not for the reason you expect. Many drinkers choose natural wines because of the myth that they don’t contain headache- and hangover-inducing sulfites. “Is it the sulfites in your wine making you feel weird, or is the food dye?” asks a bemused Berrigan. More on the dye situation in the next section, but for now, let’s talk about what sulfites do—and why they’re usually necessary in wine.
First: All wine contains sulfites. Some occur naturally. It’s legally permissible to to market a wine as having no added sulfites, but added sulfites aren’t always a bad thing! There are two places in the winemaking process where sulfur can be introduced. First, grapes may be sprayed with sulfur—a permissible practice, even within the organic industry. Second, and perhaps more controversially, sulfur can be added during the winemaking process. “A little bit of sulfur is really useful to ensure that the wine doesn’t turn and go bad during fermentation,” says Berrigan. In the United States, 350 parts per million of sulfur are allowed, but that concentration is usually only seen in conventional wines. Most of the natural wines MYSA offers clock in at a modest 50-and-under ppm. The tradeoff for a touch of stabilizing sulfites, Berrigan says, is worth it. “I would rather have 35 parts per million sulfur in my wine than have a bottle that’s mousy [tasting] and sad.”
Are There Additives In Natural Wine?Perhaps the more telling question is: Are there additives in conventional wine? The answer—despite not existing on most conventional wine labels—is a resounding yes. Conventional winemakers have a variety of additives in their toolboxes.
Fining and Filtering Additives In WineAfter wine has fermented, it will look cloudy and may have sediment in the bottle. Conventional winemakers filter out the larger particles and then use additives to “fine” the wine, making it crystal-clear. Some of those fining agents, Berrigan notes, can be surprising to consumers: She cites fish bladders, egg whites, and milk as commonly used tricks of the trade. “This is a good time to note that not all wine is vegan,” she says. The culprit is usually fining agents. By contrast, natural wine is often unfiltered, which results in bottles with sediment and cloudiness (these qualities are not considered flaws in wine, although consumers used to filtered wine may find them off-putting.)
Sugar In WineTo understand why conventional winemakers would put sugar in wine—and many do—think of a perfectly balanced wine as an X shape. One line represents acidity; the other, sugar. The ideal intersection of the two is the exact middle of the X. But a lot can go wrong during the winemaking process, and the wine you end up with will almost always be off the bullseye. If the wine is too acidic, conventional winemakers may opt to add sugar. If the wine has too much residual sugar (and consequently, a higher ABV), acidifying agents like citric acid can be introduced to the mix. It’s generally accepted that natural winemakers don’t use any sugars or acidifiers, even in the case of an imperfectly balanced wine.
Dyes In WineSerious Eats / Russell KilgoreFood dye is a permissible additive in conventional wine, although producers are loathe to admit it. It’s used to boost the saturation of wine before bottling, especially if the grapes were unhealthy and the resulting color weak. The most common coloring agent is called Mega Purple which is, funnily enough, highly concentrated grape juice. “If you’re getting weird colors on your mouth when you drink, sometimes it’s from the grapes. But a lot of the time, it’s from food dye,” says Berrigan. Natural winemakers do not use dyes.
What Does Natural Wine Taste Like?We’ve talked a lot about what natural wine isn’t. But what is it? And what does it taste like? Berrigan and many industry pros steer away from the word “funky,” even if it’s a useful catchall term for describing a wildly varied genre. (Berrigan does rate the wines sold at MYSA on a funkiness scale, because it’s an efficient way to identify how a-typical a given wine is. She notes that an adventure scale would be equally informative.) The thing is, any wine can be funky if it is improperly made.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe alarming, what IS that? retronasal experience Berrigan describes as “mousey” is a flaw—and not a desired quality in natural wine. “I worry that when people say they like natural wine, they have actually learned to like that flavor and are looking for it,” she says. That’s a compelling argument against using “funky” or “weird” to describe natural wine! Instead, knowing the common qualities of natural wine will give you a better vocabulary to describe what you like and don’t like drinking. Here are some ways to describe natural wine.
Volatile AcidityVolatile acidity brings a vinegary note to wine. A little can make a wine zippy, bright, and interesting—think aged balsamic vinegar. But if a natural wine has ever reminded you of nail polish remover, you’ve had the unfortunate experience of uncorking a bottle with too much VA.
OxidationControlled exposure to oxygen will introduce complex, nuanced qualities to a wine. Too much will pummel its flavors, aroma, and hue. How can you tell if a wine is too oxidized? Berrigan offers a simple question: “Does it have a lovely sherried note or does it taste like nasty socks?”
ReductionOn the flip side, a reductive wine has been deprived of oxygen. Keeping oxygen under control gives the wine aging power and keeps oxidation in check. But too little oxygen will introduce a sulfurous, skunky, or smoky flavor that can be off-putting to some. Berrigan notes that she steers clear of reductive wines—but if you’re into a little smoke, it’s a word you’ll want to bring to your next wine-shopping mission.
LivelinessNatural wine is alive—like kombucha and sauerkraut. For that reason, many have a lightly effervescent, fizzy quality, even if they’re not marketed as sparkling. Some unexpected bubbles are fun, but a traditionally still wine that knocks you over with fizz misses the mark.
BrettanomycesBrettanomyces, or brett, is a yeast that brings a horsey flavor to the party. It’s commonly found in beer, but isn’t shy about hanging around natural wines, too. Too much Brett smells like a barnyard, but a little can be interesting. “It adds a layer of complexity to wine beyond the primary aromas (primary is from the fruit, secondary is from the winemaking, tertiary is from aging),” says Berrigan.
Where to Buy Natural Wine OnlineWine shops that feature natural, low-intervention bottles are increasingly common. Some deal exclusively in natural wines. If you live near one, the best way to try natural wines and get to know your palate is to talk to the salespeople or merchant. However, because we live in the age of the internet, joining a natural wine club (or any sort of food subscription club) is as easy as clicking a few buttons.
Here are a few wine clubs we like, thanks to highly curated collections, approachable educational materials, and the ability to customize your subscription.
MYSA is Berrigan’s wine club. It’s a moderately priced option that offers a great variety and comes with plenty of intel on each bottle. “I love how each shipment of Mysa comes with opportunities to learn,” senior commerce editor Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm says. “There's a card with a QR code you scan and that takes you to their website where you can learn about each bottle, discover pairing ideas, and watch video tastings alongside Holly. The wines are all so thoughtfully curated and I've loved each and every bottle I've tried.”
Key Specs Type of wine included: Red, white, rosé, orange, and sparkling * Number of bottles included: 3, 6, or 12 * Frequency of delivery:* Monthly, every 2 months, or every 3 months
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmA subscription to Raw Wine’s club comes with tons of educational materials; we actually named it the best information-rich natural wine club. You can opt for temperature-controlled shipping (great in the summer months), and the membership comes with access to Raw Wine’s regular in-person events. Berrigan cites this as a superb option for serious natural wine drinkers, especially those who look for unique, thought-provoking wines.
Key Specs Type of wine included: Red, white, rosé, orange, sweet, and sparkling * Number of bottles included: 3, 6, or 12 * Frequency of delivery:* Monthly
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubA “dry” farm does not irrigate. This presents plenty of challenges to grape growing, especially in places prone to drought. But it’s better for the environment and can be a great way for grape growers and winemakers to show their skills. Dry Farm Wines shipments come with educational materials about the wines, and the shipments are packaged beautifully. They also offer a low alcohol collection ideal for drinkers who want to keep ABV in check.
Key Specs Type of wine included: Choose between a mix of red/white, red, white, rosé, and sparkling * Number of bottles included: 6 or 12 * Frequency of delivery:* Monthly or every 2 months
Serious Eats / Rochelle BilowPlonk offers totally wines made from organically- or biodynamically- grown grapes and often features lesser-known varietals. Although this isn’t technically a natural wine club, the offerings favor low-intervention winemaking techniques. Each shipment comes with a concise informational pamphlet that’s easy to digest, and never overwhelming.
Key Specs Type of wine included: Red, white, rosé, and bubbly * Number of bottles included: 4, 6, or 12 * Frequency of delivery:* Monthly, every 2 months, or every 3 months
Serious Eats / Grace KellyFAQsIs natural wine better for you?Owing to the absence of additives and typically lower ABV, some drinkers feel natural wine is a healthier option. But like all alcoholic beverages, natural wine should be drunk in moderation—it’s not a health food.
What are sulfites in wine?Sulfites are preservatives and are naturally-occurring and added. The presence of sulfites in wine gives it more stability and protects it against flaws that occur in the fermentation process. Conventional wine in the U.S. allows 350 parts per million sulfites in wine; although there’s no legal limit in natural wine, most producers try to keep it under 50 ppm.
Can you age natural wine?It’s a common misconception that all-natural wine needs to be consumed ASAP. Some varietals, like Beaujolais Noveau, are meant to be enjoyed young (and typically sell out as soon as they’re available each year). But because natural wine encompasses as many types of wine as there are grapes, plenty of low-intervention bottles can be tucked away for safekeeping.
What is orange wine?Not all orange wine is natural, but many natural wines are orange! Orange wine is made by fermenting white grapes with their skins; that’s why it’s also called “skin contact” wine. This not only gives the wine its signature color but also imparts a moderate amount of tannins, which help protect the wine against impurities. Berrigan notes that skin contact is almost always by natural winemakers who make white wines. “If you can make a white wine without any additives or skin contact, you are the most badass winemaker in the world,” she says.
Why We’re the Experts* Rochelle Bilow is a commerce editor at Serious Eats. * She is a graduate of the French Culinary Institute, and has worked as a food writer for over a decade. * She has also spent time working in marketing for the Finger Lakes Wine region. * For this story, she interviewed a sommelier with an expertise in natural wines.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSukuma wiki—sautéed collard greens typically cooked with a fragrant combination of onions, tomatoes, and ginger—is a popular dish in Kenya and one of my favorite ways to eat dark leafy greens. While most kids have to be forced to eat their green vegetables, I have fond memories of eagerly eating these simply prepared collard greens alongside ugali (cooked cornmeal), both of which my Kenyan grandmother would prepare for me.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAt local markets in Kenya, sukuma (collard green) vendors hold a tight bundle of the fresh stemmed and rolled leaves in one hand while carefully shaving off ribbons of greens. Then they gather the shaved greens into bags for customers to purchase to make sukuma wiki at home. Each vendor has their own preferred cut that shoppers select from, sometimes sliced as thick as 2-inch wide ribbons and others finer than angel hair pasta. The convenience of being able to buy collards this way adds to their popularity: most of the prep is already done for the home cook. The prepped sukuma is as much a staple go-to convenience item in Kenya as bagged baby spinach is in the U.S.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn Swahili, “sukuma wiki” translates to "push the week", referring to the dish's ability to stretch throughout the week until payday, thanks to the abundant availability and affordability of greens in East African countries such as Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda. It is simple to prepare for any night of the week—requiring mere minutes in a sautée pan—while it is also nutritious, and a great and relatively cheap way to bulk up a meal. Here are a few tips for how to prepare and add flavor to sukuma wiki when cooking at home.
Tips for Cleaning and Cutting Sukuma WikiWhile most American supermarkets sell collard greens whole rather than pre-sliced like in the food markets in Kenya, if you follow my tips, washing and cutting the greens is still relatively easy. Don’t be tempted to save time and skip washing the greens. Bunched collard greens, like any type of dark leafy green that is grown in the ground, can have residual dirt that when left unwashed before cooking, can have an unwelcome gritty texture. Avoid this by taking the few minutes to fill a large bowl of water, then dipping the individual leaves briefly into the water and rubbing them clean before transfering to a colander to drain. A quick drain is all the leaves need for easier handling when slicing. It’s OK if the leaves are not completely dry when they hit the skillet. Any residual moisture will promote initial steaming and quickly cook off.
The next crucial step when preparing the greens for cooking is to remove the fibrous center stalk that runs through the middle of each leaf. The stalk is too tough to soften in the short cooking time, so it’s best to just remove and discard or compost them for this dish. Once cleaned and trimmed, stack a few leaves together and curl into a tight coil before running your knife through the greens to form thin ribbons.
Simple Flavor Additions for Sukuma WikiEach Kenyan has their own favorite combination of aromatics and spices to season the greens. Kenyan versions always include tomato and onion—a classic aromatic pairing found throughout Kenyan cuisine, but beyond that the flavors can vary slightly. Beef or chicken bouillon powder is a common seasoning used for its meaty umami flavor that’s so loved in the country. The duo of garlic and ginger is widely used in versions of sukuma wiki in coastal Kenya, where the cuisine has a strong Indian influence.
In my version, I keep the flavor profile simple, skipping the bouillon powder and garlic. A light sprinkle of salt, fresh tomatoes, onion, and ginger are the only flavorings I use. I love how ginger brightens and adds a pop of assertive peppery flavor to balance the earthy greens. The combination is simple, bright, and completely satisfying.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBut don’t feel limited by the aromatics I’ve selected here. Use this as a starting point to be creative and add your own preferred flavors, whether it’s the simple addition of minced garlic, a touch of heat from red chile flakes to finish, or a squeeze of lemon juice before serving. Whatever flavors you choose to enhance these sautéed collard greens is up to you, but I recommend keeping the combination simple.
I’ve included time ranges for both crisp-tender greens as well as a longer sauté time for more tender greens, which is how I prefer to enjoy my sukuma wiki. Whether you prefer your greens velvety soft as I do, or still with a bit of bite, these greens come together quickly and pair well with almost any protein, including chicken, fish, and beef. Or enjoy sukuma wiki as my grandmother and I do, as a light meal alongside Kenyan ugali (cooked cornmeal) or another simple starch such as rice, or chapati.
Working in batches stack a few stemmed collard leaves on a cutting board, placing the larger leaves at the bottom. Roll the leaves tightly and slice them into thin strips, approximately 1/8 inch wide. (Make sure they are not too thin, as they may clump together during cooking.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large skillet or sauté pan, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add sliced onion and cook until softened and lightly browned, about 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd tomatoes and ginger and season lightly with salt. Cook, stirring often, until tomatoes have released most of their water, about 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd collards to the pan and season with salt. Cook, lowering the heat as needed to avoid scorching, until collards have softened but retain a vibrant green color and slightly crunchy texture, 8 to 10 minutes. Or, if desired, cook until collards are fully softened and have darkened in color, 15 to 25 minutes total. Season with salt to taste. Serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentLarge skillet or sauté pan
NotesIf you can’t find collard greens, kale is the next best choice. I have used both curly and lacinato kale. They are a bit more finicky to chop due to the shape of their leaves, but they are closer in flavor to the original than other dark leafy greens such as Swiss chard, which is too bitter for this dish.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishFor such a humble and simple dish, hummus has inspired an impressive and complex battle of opinions. From texture and flavor to cooking techniques, everyone seems to think there is a best or right way to make hummus. Though there are some guiding principles to keep in mind—more on that below—how you prepare the spread ultimately comes down to personal preference. Silky hummus is a triumphant treat. But if we start splitting hairs over the degree of smoothness and trouble ourselves to the point of vowing to never to make hummus again unless we painstakingly peel each chickpea, then we miss the spirit of what this dish is all about: transforming a humble ingredient into a delicious and fulfilling dish.
The Origins of Hummus“Hummus” is the Arabic word for chickpea. Although the word has become synonymous with the chickpea and tahini dip of the same name, this particular spread’s complete Arabic designation is hummus b’tahini. Simply translated, the term means tahini hummus, which is made up of two primary components: tahini and chickpeas.
TahiniTahini is made of one ingredient: ground sesame seeds. It can be crafted from hulled, unroasted seeds for a light and mild flavor, or hulled, roasted seeds for a nuttier taste. Some also prepare hummus with unhulled seeds (toasted or untoasted), which taste similar but have a pleasant hint of bitterness. Any of these work well in hummus, though most of what you find commercially across the world is the hulled, roasted variety. But if you ever visit a tahini mill or specialty store, the best way to discover your preference is through tasting and experimentation.
Sesame seeds are one of the oldest known oil crops, with possible origins in Africa or Asia. One of the earliest references to tahini dates back to the 10th century, where it was described as “tahin al simsim,” or sesame paste, in the cookbook Kitab al Tabikh by Arabic author Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq, which contains recipes from what is now modern-day Baghdad. The term "tahini" stems from the Arabic word "tahhiniyya," derived from the root verb "tahan," meaning to grind or mill. (If my etymology lessons remind you of the father from My Big Fat Greek Wedding, you’re not alone—I’ve heard it many times before!)
Most references in Kitab al Tabikh use tahini as a spread on different breads, which might then be topped with dried or cured meats. Some recipes state that having tahini with honey or date syrup might help it pass through the digestive system faster—and is probably where the dish dibs wa tahini (tahini with date or grape molasses) originates. In the book, tahini is also featured in baked goods. Today, tahini’s popularity is soaring across the world, propelled by its esteemed place in Arab cuisine, specifically the Levant region, where it stars in beloved foods like hummus and halaweh (halva).
Some consider Ethiopian sesame seeds the best because of the climate and nutrient-rich soil they are grown in—a similar concept to how terroir can impact the flavor of wine grapes. Having tasted tahini made from both Ethiopian seeds and others, however, I find the emphasis on the seed’s origin overstated. The milling process, degree of roasting, and the freshness upon purchase all significantly shape tahini’s flavor, sometimes more so than the seed's origin.
To ensure you are getting the freshest and highest quality tahini, always look at the date of production and make sure there are no ingredients other than sesame on the list. I avoid anything that contains added oil, salt, emulsifiers, sugar, and flavorings, which can negatively impact the flavor and texture of the paste. I prefer to buy Lebanese or Palestinian tahini, which can be found in most Middle Eastern grocery stores. Both tend to have an excellent flavor and smooth texture that isn’t overly thick.
But even amongst good quality tahini, tasting is the only way to know which brand is truly the best. You should be able to enjoy it the way you would a spoonful of peanut butter. My personal test: It should taste pleasant on its own; there might be a hint of sweetness, and there should be no bitter aftertaste or acidic notes.
ChickpeasThe chickpea likely dates back to the 10,000 BCE, when archaeological records show evidence of its domestication in the Fertile Crescent. It’s a finicky plant, apparently, and how it successfully spread across the Middle East, South Asia, Ethiopia, and the Western Mediterranean remains unclear.
At some point in history, someone thought to combine tahini and chickpeas together. One of the earliest records of this goes back to a 13th century Syrian cookbook called Al-Wusla ila al-Habib fi Wasf al-Tayyibat wal-Teeb, which culinary historian Charles Perry has since translated as Scents and Flavors: A Syrian Cookbook. The book has a basic recipe for fresh chickpeas that are cooked and mashed, topped with a tahini and vinegar mixture, then layered with crushed walnuts and lemon juice before finally being garnished with spices and herbs.
Tips for Making the Best HummusThere are probably as many ways to make hummus as there are Arab families, and you should prepare it the way you like. While I think there is no right or wrong way to make hummus, the recipe I offer here reflects my efforts to create the best hummus for myself. I have experimented quite a bit: I’ve prepped hummus with dried and canned beans; peeled and unpeeled chickpeas; just tahini or a combination of tahini and olive oil; with and without garlic and spices—the list goes on.
Though many hesitate to make it at home because it involves pots, strainers, and a food processor, along with the many parts that require cleaning, it’s possible to enjoy fresh hummus regularly. I make hummus three times a week, right before sending my kids to school, and it takes me ten minutes at most. The secret? I use jarred chickpeas and skip the food processor and all its finicky parts. With the following tips, you, too, will be able to make hummus whenever you want.
It's Okay to Use Canned or Jarred ChickpeasWhile there are some benefits to boiling your own chickpeas, you can still make excellent hummus with good quality jarred or canned chickpeas, so if having to cook your own chickpeas is what’s deterring you from making hummus, it’s perfectly acceptable to skip that step. (I personally prefer the jarred variety over canned for quality and texture, and also because it lacks the tinny aftertaste that some canned products may have.)
If You're Preparing Chickpeas From Scratch, Cook Them ProperlyAs for smoothness, this has less to do with peeling the chickpeas—a step some recipes recommend—and more to do with how well cooked the chickpeas are and what equipment you use to blend them. If you are starting with dried chickpeas and cooking them from scratch, adding baking soda to the cooking water helps chickpeas cook and soften faster by altering the pH level and allowing the pectin in the skin to break down more effectively. For the silkiest chickpeas, make sure to cook them until they are falling apart. (See my instructions for cooking dried chickpeas below the main recipe for full instructions.)
Make Smaller Batches, and Skip the Food ProcessorSome will tell you that a powerful blender will make smoother hummus than a regular food processor, but blenders don’t work well if the consistency of the spread is too thick, and you risk ending up with hummus soup if you go down that route. Some might choose to circumvent this by blending the chickpeas while hot, but that also isn’t ideal. Not only will your hummus sit for longer in the food safety danger zone—40º to 140ºF or 4º to 60ºC, the temperature at which harmful bacteria grows the fastest—but you also won’t be able to gauge its final texture, as hummus thickens considerably as it sits and cools.
While some recipes call for grinding the chickpeas with water and lemon juice alone in a blender to get it smooth and then simply whisking in the tahini, this does not produce the same flavor or texture you get from processing tahini with chickpeas or, as is the traditional method, pounding the tahini and chickpeas together.
Instead of relying on a food processor or a high-speed blender, I make smaller batches, blitzing everything together in a two- or four-cup glass measuring cup with my trusty immersion blender. Processing all the ingredients together emulsifies the ingredients and gives the hummus a more cohesive texture and flavor. (It tastes best when it’s fresh, anyway.)
Experiment With Flavors—Or Keep It SimpleOnce you master this way of making the spread, fresh hummus will be accessible to you on a regular basis with minimal effort—and you can then focus on experimenting with flavors and preferences.
Some people like to use garlic in their hummus, but I don’t recommend incorporating garlic unless you are going to consume the entire portion of hummus immediately, because garlic oxidizes quite quickly and its sulfuric compounds give the hummus a stronger and unpleasant aroma as the spread sits. Some use spices like cumin, others are purists. I like mine with a little lemon juice, salt, and generous amounts of tahini.
In Jerusalem hummus shops, and across some other Palestinian towns, vendors may top hummus b’tahini with a tart blended sauce made of tahini, lemon juice, water, and chopped parsley. It looks pretty, but I prefer my hummus with no additions—because when it’s really good, nothing should distract from its flavor.
Set aside 1 tablespoon of chickpeas to garnish with, if desired. In a tall container wide enough to fit the head of an immersion blender, combine remaining chickpeas, water, tahini, lemon juice, and salt. Place head of immersion blender into bottom of the cup and blend, moving it up and down and over the top until smooth, about 2 minutes. Alternatively, place chickpeas, water, tahini, lemon juice, and salt into a small food processor and process until smooth, scraping down as needed, about 2 minutes. Hummus should be thick and creamy; if it is too thick, add 1 tablespoon (15ml) of water at a time to thin to desired consistency. Season to taste with salt and lemon juice.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishTo Serve: Serve hummus in a shallow bowl; using the back of the spoon to form a small well in the center. Garnish with cooked chickpeas (if using), toasted pine nuts, fresh parsley, paprika, and/or ground cumin, if using, and drizzle generously with olive oil. Serve with pita and sliced tomatoes, pickles, and onions, if desired.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishSpecial EquipmentImmersion blender
NotesThe recipe works well if doubled or tripled.
Homemade chickpeas can be used in place of canned or jarred chickpeas. Just make sure they are cooked to a point where they are falling apart. This also ensures extra creamy and smooth hummus. But always blend when cold.
To prepare chickpeas from scratch: In a large bowl, cover 1 pound (454g) of dried chickpeas generously with cold water and let stand at room temperature overnight. Drain and rinse chickpeas thoroughly.
In a 6- to 8- quart Dutch oven or stock pot, combine chickpeas and 1 tablespoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt (if using table salt, use half as much by volume). Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to a simmer and cook until beans are almost falling apart, 1 1/2 to 2 hours, topping with water as needed. (Chickpeas should be submerged at all times.) Using a fine-mesh strainer, drain chickpeas. Set aside 240g (about 8 1/2 ounces) cooked chickpeas and reserve 1/3 cup (90ml) cooking water for hummus. Set aside remaining chickpeas and freeze, or reserve for another use.
This recipe yields a very smooth hummus. However, for an even smoother hummus, you can use half the quantity of water specified (45g of water) and the remaining half (45g) as ice cubes.
Make-Ahead and StorageHummus can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Cooked chickpeas can be frozen for up to 6 months.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikFloundering on the internets for new ways to prepare this delicate white-fleshed flatfish? Here are our ten go-to methods for getting flounder on the table, ranging from simple pan-seared, lemon-kissed treatments like meunière and piccata to battering and deep-frying for sandwiches and tacos.
Sole MeunièreSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis classic preparation is quick, easy, and arguably one of the best ways to serve delicate fillets like flounder.
West Lake SoupSerious Eats / Qi AiThis comforting soup is often made with ground pork or beef, but we really like using chopped and marinated white fish, which allows the cilantro, white pepper, soy, and rice wine to shine through.
Fried Fish Sandwiches With Creamy Slaw and Tartar SauceSerious Eats / Qi AiFlounder takes especially well to being fried, making it a perfect substitute for cod in this delectable sandwich. The beer-batter coating, made with a combination of flour and cornstarch, is light, airy, and crisp.
Fish PiccataSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThe ender, pan-fried flounder fillets in this recipe are smothered with a creamy caper-studded lemon-butter sauce.
Planked Whitefish With Cilantro-Lime ButterSerious Eats / Joshua BouselPlanking is one of the most foolproof ways to grill fish. The cedar acts as a "baking sheet" of sorts, making the process of transferring the fish on and off the grill a snap while subtly perfuming the fish with woodsy aromas.
Kung Pao Fish With Dried Chiles and Sichuan PeppercornsSerious Eats / Shao Z.Here, chunks of white fish are seasoned with soy sauce and white pepper, then battered, deep-fried, and smothered in a mouth-tingling mixture of stir-fried scallions, garlic, Sichuan peppercorns, and dried chiles.
Pan-Fried Whitefish With Corn, Avocado, Lime and Basil RelishSerious Eats / Jennifer OlveraPan-fried flounder is the perfect blank canvas for a medley of fresh and bright flavors: sweet corn, red onion, avocado, tomatoes, and basil, all tossed in a bright lime vinaigrette.
Grilled Fish in ParchmentSerious Eats / Joshua BouselAs grilling methods go, fashioning parcels from parchment paper (or, for the more nervous among us, foil) is one of the most convenient and foolproof techniques out there. Lemon and dill sprigs perfume the fish as it steams atop shingled slices of summer squash.
Crunchy Fried Fish TacosSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThere's nothing quite like the combination of warm corn tortillas, freshly fried fish, cabbage, spicy mayo, and pickled onions.
Chả Cá, Seared Fish with Turmeric Over Rice NoodlesSerious Eats / Chichi WangIn Chichi's take on this classic Vietnamese noodle dish, white-fleshed fish fillets like flounder or catfish are marinated in a mixture of buttermilk, turmeric, freshly grated galangal, and savory fish paste. The fillets are briefly seared on both sides and transferred to bowls piled with rice noodles.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThere are many ways to cook eggs, and most are relatively simple. Fried, boiled, and scrambled eggs are staples for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but there are a couple of egg methods that home cooks tend to shy away from because they seem too hard or fussy—the French omelette is one, but perhaps even more feared is the poached egg. Dropping an egg into a saucepan of simmering water and swirling it just in time to prevent the whites from spreading into a feathery mess is intimidating, and keeping the eggs from overcooking can be challenging.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI, too, once shied away from poaching eggs—but then I went to culinary school, and with plenty of practice, poaching eggs became second nature. They’ve since become a go-to dinner when there isn’t much in the fridge or I’m short on time. Served with toast, hollandaise sauce, and braised asparagus, it’s a fancy-feeling meal that I’d be happy to eat night after night.
Still, I was curious to know if there was a faster, better way to poach eggs—one that didn’t involve the stovetop. What if the key to the perfect poached egg was…the microwave? With the microwave, I could have poached eggs in about five minutes without even turning the stove on or dirtying a pot. A quick web search shows many people espousing the wonders of microwaved poached eggs, but I wasn’t convinced until I tried—and perfected—the method myself.
How Microwaves Work—and Why You Should Give Them a ChanceBefore you shake your head and click away, let me explain. The microwave is one of the great conveniences of modern life: It allows us to reheat food quickly, is great for steaming vegetables such as asparagus, broccoli, and sweet potatoes (like in this onde-onde recipe), and is also a clever way of rendering fat. Microwaves were all the rage in the 1980s and 1990s, when Americans had what the Washington Post described as “appliance affection.” The appliance gradually fell out of favor, but seem to be having a bit of a comeback now, with plenty of chefs happily admitting to cooking in the microwave.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMicrowaves work by generating electromagnetic waves; as Kenji wrote in his guide to microwave-steamed vegetables, these waves create an oscillating magnetic field inside the chamber, which causes water molecules to rapidly jostle up and down, generating friction that heats up your food. Like Kenji, I fully recognize that the appliance isn’t great for everything; I certainly wouldn’t expect it to brown my chicken thighs. But for popcorn, reheating leftovers, and poaching eggs? The microwave is excellent.
Tips for Making a Perfect Poached Egg in the MicrowaveAs someone who until a few weeks ago had never poached an egg in a microwave, I wasn’t entirely sure where to begin. A quick glance at other recipes wasn’t much help: none of them agreed on the correct amount of water to use, the best poaching vessel, or how long to microwave the egg. The only thing that everyone agreed on is how much variation there is between microwave models and how that affects the cook time (more on that below).
My first few attempts at microwave poaching were unsuccessful: The egg whites were either rock solid or wispy and undercooked, the yolks were often more set than I wanted them to be, and I had a few eggs explode during cooking, scattering egg fragments throughout my microwave (so fun to clean up). It didn’t matter what the time and power levels were—none of the eggs were perfectly poached. But I didn’t give up. The other Serious Eats editors and I put our heads together, microwaved dozens of eggs, and finally landed on what I believe to be the perfect microwave poached egg—one that I’d be happy to eat atop my weekday toast or serve to friends.
Get to Know Your MicrowaveMicrowaves come in an assortment of wattages, which indicates how powerful the appliance is—or how much energy it’s able to convert into electromagnetic waves. Machines with a higher wattage are able to cook foods faster and more efficiently, and while this can be convenient, it can also make it easy to overcook foods. Unfortunately, there’s really no way to circumvent the problem of variability and it’s impossible to develop a recipe that suits each and every microwave, but after making poached eggs in the microwave a couple of times it’s easy to find the perfect cook time for your machine.
I tested this recipe with a 1,000 watt microwave, and the cook times I suggest reflect that. If you’re unsure of your microwave’s wattage or unfamiliar with this cooking method, I recommend cooking your egg in 30 second intervals so you can check on it intermittently to prevent undercooking or overcooking your egg.
Bring Your Water to a Boil Before Adding the EggsStarting with cold water resulted in eggs that set too hard, and after several attempts to fix this problem resulted in exploding eggs, I was on the brink of giving up. As always, Daniel had a genius suggestion. Why not heat the water until it reaches the temperature of a bare boil—about 209 to 212ºF or 98 to 100ºC—before adding the eggs? Starting with cold tap water meant that the water required more time at a higher power level in order to become hot enough to cook the egg, and we suspected this was why the egg whites were setting so firmly.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIndeed, starting with hot water solves this problem by more closely mimicking traditional stovetop poaching, and also ensures that everyone using my recipe starts cooking at the same temperature instead of whatever temperature their tap water is. Just be careful not to superheat your water, which happens when a liquid exceeds the temperature of boiling point—the result is scalding hot water that erupts, which can cause serious burns and injuries. To avoid superheating, heat your water in stages of no more than a minute at a time and, using an instant read thermometer, check the temperature as you go.
Add SaltAdding a bit of salt to the poaching water has the obvious benefit of making the egg taste better, but we also learned that it can give the egg a better texture because it helps it to cook more gently. One day, Daniel excitedly messaged me on Slack to say “salting the water very possibly slows down the rate at which the water can heat in the microwave!” In classic, endearing science-nerd Daniel fashion, he sent me a paper from the Arabian Journal of Chemistry titled Microwave Chemistry: Effect of Ions on Dielectric Heating in Microwave Ovens that laid out how the presence of salt ions interfered with the heat generated by the microwave.
In short, scientists experimented with various concentrations of salt in a solution they then microwaved, and found that solutions with a higher salt concentration produced less heat when microwaved. What does this mean for microwave-poached eggs? Salting the water you poach the eggs in slows down the rate at which the water heats, cooking the egg evenly and reducing the risk of both superheating the water and overcooking the egg.
Add a Splash of Flavorful VinegarWhen poaching eggs on the stovetop, most cooks, including myself, will add a teaspoon or two of vinegar to the water. The acidity helps to set the egg by denaturing the egg white proteins, resulting in an egg that’s better at retaining its shape as it cooks. To help my microwave-poached egg set quickly, I began by incorporating a teaspoon of distilled white vinegar into my water. While distilled white vinegar is perfectly fine to use, there are many other vinegars you can use for a more pleasant flavor, such as rice vinegar, white wine vinegar, and apple cider vinegar.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUse the Freshest Eggs You Can FindWhile older eggs are better for making hard-boiled eggs, you’ll want to use the freshest eggs you can find when poaching. That’s because fresh eggs have tighter whites and are better at holding their shape as they cook. This ability of fresh eggs to hold their shape is even more important with microwave poaching than with stovetop poaching.
When you poach an egg on the stovetop, you can create a vortex to swirl the whites around the yolk; even if the egg isn't the freshest, this helps form a more circular egg. But the microwave is less forgiving: old eggs will sink to the bottom, creating flat poached eggs that, in the words of Daniel, look like “fried eggs that were boiled.” When buying eggs, check the date on the carton or ask the vendor when they were gathered and use the newest eggs you can find. If you only have older eggs, not to worry—your poached eggs will still taste good, they just won’t be quite as photogenic.
Help the Eggs Hold Their ShapeIf you really want a perfectly shaped egg, you can trim the egg whites with a paring knife or kitchen scissors after cooking or use a trick from Kenji’s poached egg recipe: Before cooking, place the egg in a fine-mesh strainer to allow any loose egg whites to drip through. I do recommend cracking your egg into a small bowl or ramekin before you plop it into the bowl of hot water, as it makes it much easier to gently slip the egg into the bowl (which will be hot from bringing the water to a boil). This extra step also allows you to check for loose bits of shell and make sure the egg yolk is intact before poaching.
Use Medium-High HeatAfter testing with various power levels, 80% proved to be ideal for poaching eggs and produced set whites and soft yolks. Anything lower or higher produced eggs that were way undercooked or way overcooked. But at 80% power, the egg was perfectly cooked and looked and tasted just like an egg poached on the stovetop.
When Does It Make Sense to Microwave Poach Eggs?While this is a handy way to make eggs, it’s not the most efficient approach if you need to prepare eggs for several people since you can only microwave-poach one egg at a time. If you’re having friends over for brunch, I recommend doing it the old-fashioned way on the stovetop, where you can poach several eggs at once. But if you’re cooking for one or two and just want a nice poached egg that’s ready with a touch of a few buttons, then this might be the method for you. Once you’ve figured out what settings work best for your microwave, it’s the easiest way to make a flawless poached egg that’s worthy of your favorite brunch restaurant.
In a small microwave-safe bowl, whisk water, rice vinegar, and salt until well-combined. Place bowl in microwave and heat water at 100% power in 1 minute intervals until 209 to 212ºF (98 to 100ºC), about 4 minutes total.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing oven mitts or a kitchen towel, carefully remove bowl from microwave and gently slip the egg into water. Return bowl to microwave and cook at 80% power until the whites are fully set but yolks are still soft, about 1 minute and 20 seconds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile eggs are cooking, place a paper towel on a plate; set aside.
Using a slotted spoon, carefully lift egg from bowl, allowing any excess liquid to drip back into the bowl. Transfer to paper-towel lined plate and, using a paring knife or scissors, trim whites if desired. Serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentSmall microwave-safe bowl, whisk, microwave, instant read thermometer, slotted spoon
Serious Eats / Qi AiBeing Asian, I always considered myself fairly lucky not to have grown up lactose-intolerant. Heck, my first real paying job was scooping ice cream at Baskin-Robbins, and as a pastry chef, I loved coming up with new flavors of ice cream. Flash forward a few decades and I'm popping Lactaid tablets even before I start melting the cheese on my burger. Consequently, I'm always on the hunt for great dairy-free options that don't make me feel like I'm missing out on something.
It can be a real challenge to create dairy-free dishes that satisfy on all fronts—particularly when it comes to classics and comfort foods like pasta carbonara, Philly cheesesteak, cream of mushroom soup, chocolate chip cookies, and chocolate mousse. But many of our recipes make innovative use of avocado, cauliflower, olive oil, and almond milk to replicate the flavor and texture of dairy-based favorites such as creamed spinach. So, whatever dairy-free recipes you're looking for—entrees, sides, snacks, or desserts—we've got you covered.
Cheese-Free Sweet Potato "Quesadillas"Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltWhile you can make a tasty quesadilla with any number of dairy-free cheeses, we happen to think that mashed roasted sweet potatoes seasoned with cilantro, pickled jalapeños, and scallions make a perfectly delicious swap for the "queso" part of the equation. What's not to like when that bright orange filling is encased in a crispy, puffy flour tortilla?
Fully Loaded Vegan Baked Potato SoupSerious Eats / Qi AiRoasted cauliflower, roasted cashews, chipotle chiles, and paprika blended with potato give this soup its "cheesy" look, flavor, and creamy texture. It comes fully loaded with vegan sour cream, scallions, and crispy vegan bacon (a.k.a. smoked mushroom) for a hearty, satisfying one-bowl meal.
Vegan Lasagna alla BologneseSerious Eats / Vicky WasikA vital component of a classic lasagna alla Bolognese is the creamy béchamel sauce which, I would argue, is what pulls the whole thing together. Daniel convincingly captures the richness and essence of a true béchamel in non-dairy form by infusing almond milk with aromatics for maximum flavor. Now whether you go full-vegan or just use the creamy dairy-free béchamel in your lasagna is entirely up to you.
Vegan Carbonara PastaSerious Eats / Vicky WasikCarbonara pasta is another tough one to nail without the requisite Pecorino Romano. Here, Daniel uses sauerkraut brine for the lactic tang, while nutritional yeast and miso paste provide the umami that real aged cheese brings to the dish,
Vegan Cream of Mushroom Soup With Crispy Shiitake ChipsSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltWhat's a cream of mushroom soup without the cream, you say? Well, Kenji devised a 100% dairy-free rendition that's every bit as luxurious and satisfying as the butter- and cream-laden version—and more intensely mushroomy to boot!
Rhode Island Clam Chowder With White Wine and BaconSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerThis Rhode Island version of the classic soup is perhaps the clammiest of all the chowders on this side of the Atlantic. Unlike the heavier cream-based chowders, this one features a light, bright broth and a touch of white wine that really lets the clam flavor shine through.
Vegan Cauliflower-Creamed SpinachSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltIn this recipe, replacing the dairy with cauliflower purée intensifies the flavor and brightness of the spinach, without sacrificing the creamy texture.
Chilled Carrots With Tahini-Ginger DressingSerious Eats / Vicky WasikButtered carrots are fine as a side dish. But these glossy chilled carrots with tahini-ginger dressing are an upgrade—especially on a summer table. You can serve them anytime, though!
The Best Vegan Nacho Cheese SauceSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergThe mark of a superior vegan nacho cheese sauce—any dairy-free cheese sauce, for that matter—is nailing the rich, full mouthfeel and gooey, creamy texture. Kenji achieves this by blending cashews and Russet potato with almond milk, then building layers of flavor to get the perfect level of tangy, salty nacho spice.
Vegan Philly CheesesteakSerious Eats / Vicky WasikMeaty yuba sheets (tofu skin) smothered in a rich mushroom broth, roasted trumpet mushrooms, and caramelized onions provide the ideal stand-in for grilled sliced steak. However, it's the gooey dairy-free cheese sauce that clinches it. Sohla dials back on the spice of Kenji's vegan nacho sauce by using tomato paste and nutritional yeast in place of chipotles, jalapeños, and hot sauce for more of that Cheez Whiz vibe.
Dried Olive and Miso Shake (The Best Vegan Parmesan Substitute)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltIf you're looking for something to take the place of grated Parmesan (or Pecorino Romano), then this deeply savory, slightly tangy mix of dried olive, miso paste, and lemon zest will be the sprinkle-on-anything condiment of your dreams.
Dairy-Free Chocolate CakeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis supremely dark chocolate cake is one to keep in your baking repertoire. Olive oil keeps it super moist and dairy-free. It's so easy and quick to make that you can whip one up for a weeknight dessert—whether you have company or you're dining solo.
Chè Chuối (Vietnamese Banana, Tapioca, and Coconut Milk Dessert)Serious Eats / Vy TranThis rich, creamy coconut milk-based soup is ideal for when you're craving a not-too-sweet snack or dessert to cap off your meal. Serve it warm or hot with sliced pisang awak bananas or ripe sweetened plantains and crushed roasted peanuts for a delightful dairy-free treat.
Olive Oil Chocolate Chip CookiesSerious Eats / Vicky WasikA mild buttery olive oil is an excellent fat to use in a dairy-free chocolate chip cookie—which also makes it vegan and pantry-friendly. Crispy along the edges and chewy in the center with pops of gooey chocolate, these might become a new favorite to put on your dessert rotation.
Vegan Avocado Lime Ice CreamSerious Eats / Victor ProtasioAvocado and lime in guacamole is a match made in heaven, but it's even more miraculous in dairy-free ice cream. That's because when you combine the fatty and buttery texture of avocado with the bright tang of lime, you get an ice cream that's just as rich and smooth as the egg- and cream-based variety.
Plum SorbetSerious Eats / Max FalkowitzThe key to making a sorbet that's as luscious as ice cream is choosing fruits that have body and texture—like plums. Using a mix of varieties will give you a more complex flavor profile.
Avocado Chocolate MousseSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezAvocado is the secret ingredient to making super creamy, velvety smooth dairy-free chocolate mousse. A little oat milk and agave syrup aids in blending and adds some sweetness.
Boozy Piña Colada PopsiclesSerious Eats / Vicky WasikDessert cocktail on a stick? Yes, please! Here, unsweetened coconut cream provides thickness and body, while fresh pineapple adds bright tropical flavor and acidity. A splash of rum brings everything together with a little hit boozy spice.
Coquito SmoothieSerious Eats / Autumn GilesWho wouldn't want to start their day with a smoothie full of holiday vibes? This dairy-free drink, inspired by the Puerto Rican punch coquito, is a blend of coconut milk (from a carton, not a can), frozen bananas, and maple syrup. Add a sprinkling of nutmeg for an eggnog flavor.
DIY Rice MilkSerious Eats / Molly SheridanMaking your own rice milk from scratch allows you to flavor it however you like—try cocoa, cinnamon, or nutmeg. Plus, you can save a little money.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThere are few foods more reviled than gefilte fish—the mere mention of it almost always triggers a compulsory acknowledgement of its inherent disgustingness. Gefilte fish elicits acks and icks in conversation and preemptive apologies from food and recipe writers, who manage to say in a single breath: "I value this food enough to spill ink about it" and "of course we all agree it's pretty gross."
I will not do that, because I do not believe it. Yes, it's a poached fish ball often served in its own chilled jelly, but I don't think there's anything particularly offensive about that. Its flavor is pleasantly clean verging on mild, its seasonings constrained and balanced, and I can think of no other food that makes prepared horseradish taste so good—not even roast beef. I have always loved gefilte fish, and I am convinced that if more people dropped their reflexively aghast posture when in its presence, many of them would, too.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI've eaten enough gefilte fish in my life to stuff a whale, but only now have I done the work to put together a recipe of my own, to the degree I can even call it my own. My recipe below is a very traditional recipe, free of tricks or "upgrades" or culinary flourishes. I arrived at it by reading many, many recipes for gefilte fish, noting their similarities as well as their differences, and running test batch after test batch to work out the ingredients and ratios that most aligned with my tastes. As it turns out, it landed not too far from a lot of classic recipes.
In many ways, this is an incredibly easy recipe to put together, though finding and preparing the fish itself can be a major pain—I mean that literally, my fingers are still healing from all the scratches and pricks I endured when washing and cleaning the bones for the broth. But just as a good latke requires grating a few knuckles, so, apparently, does good gefilte fish require getting your finger caught on mysterious sharp bits inside a pike's mouth. I'd say it's worth it.
Gefilte What?Gefilte is the Yiddish word for "stuffed," because in centuries past, the seasoned ground fish mixture—a "forcemeat" if you want to use the technical culinary term for it—was packed back into the skin of the fish from which it had come before being cooked. Almost no one does the stuffing part anymore, but the cooked forcemeat filling remains a staple of the Ashkenazi Jewish table, especially for the Passover seder—though I, for one, am happy to eat gefilte fish any day.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezToday, you'll usually see gefilte fish prepared a couple different ways, either packed into a loaf shape and baked, or formed into patties or balls and poached in a broth made from the fish bones. This recipe is for the poached version, which is what I mostly ate growing up. Often, that poached version is served cold, at times with its jellied aspic alongside. While the fish used varies depending on location and varying Ashkenazi traditions, the most common ones in the United States are freshwater fish like carp, pike, and whitefish, typically seasoned simply with onion, pepper, salt, and sugar and bound with eggs and matzo meal.
There is much more to gefilte fish's story, including that it originated as a popular Christian food for Lent during Medieval times. You can read more about that via the link, but the point I'd like to stress is that there is nothing unusual about gefilte fish. It has a history that goes back centuries and is rooted in a widespread tradition of making flavorful forcemeats from fish and then cooking them gently. Millions of people have enjoyed this dish, and ones like it—including France's famed pike quenelles—across vast stretches of land for ages through to the present. That hardly sounds like an inherently disgusting recipe to me.
Finding and Prepping the FishBy far the most difficult thing about making gefilte fish is securing the fish itself. I live in New York City and ran into wall after wall trying to order it for this recipe in the lead-up to Passover. Many fishmongers told me I would have needed to place an order weeks in advance, and even when I tried to pull the "this is for a major food publication" trump card with the PR reps of one significant fish wholesaler, I still got bupkis. Ultimately, Citarella in the West Village came through for me, handing me a heavy bag of pounds upon pounds of carp, whitefish, and pike two days after I placed my order. (I name them not because I owe them—I paid for the fish in full—but simply because, if you're in the New York City area, it may help to know they're one of your best bets. Plus I'm just so grateful they made it work.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo be clear, you don't have to use all three of those fishes. If you can only find fresh carp, or pike, or whiting, you can still make gefilte fish with just that. And if you live somewhere where those three types of fish are not available, you can probably ask around at good fishmongers to find out what's best to use for gefilte fish.
It doesn't even have to be freshwater fish. From what I've read, Jews in the United Kingdom routinely make gefilte fish with saltwater fish like cod. But for most Jews in most places, the sweet flesh of freshwater fish is the preferred option. But now I will issue a major warning: If you cannot find good freshwater fish from a quality fishmonger, do not under any circumstances use whatever freshwater fish you can find easily, because most of the time that fish is garbage. I know because I made this mistake: In the early stages of developing this recipe, before Citarella came through with the good stuff, I relented and bought pounds upon pounds of mixed freshwater fish from a local market, including fillets of frozen tilapia. I knew it was going to be bad, but the resulting gefilte fish tasted so horrendously muddy that I spit every bite straight into the garbage. Avoid low-quality freshwater fish, low-quality farmed fish, and anything that's been held in a tank for too long. They will taste like the concentrated conditions in which they lived.
Once you have a source for your fish locked in, you'll need to make a decision about how to go about prepping it. You need to buy whole fish so that you can use the heads and bones for the stock, but that fish needs to be filleted, skinned, deboned, and ground. You can do this yourself, but it's quite a chore. It's much easier is to ask your fishmonger to do this for you, and will eliminate one of the biggest labors of the whole process.
The Tricky Issue of Knowing How Much Fish to BuyMany gefilte fish recipes call for a whole fish weight, since you need the heads and bones to make the stock. They then estimate a yield based on that whole fish weight for the meat that will be used to make the gefilte fish itself. One very common estimate I've seen is that roughly seven pounds of whole fish will yield about three pounds of ground meat. When I bought my fish from Citarella, though, the whole fish weight was more than 12 pounds, but the ground meat I received was just about four pounds.
This raises a problem. If the yield is inconsistent, the resulting recipe will be inconsistent as well, since you may end up using the incorrect amount of ground fish relative to all the other ingredients that go into the forcemeat. The ratios matter to the final results, so you want to make sure you have the right amount of ground fish. For that reason, I've written my recipe to prioritize the weight of the ground meat: It calls for three pounds, which makes enough gefilte fish to serve an extended family of at least 12 and up to about 24 at a seder. Everything else is scaled to those three pounds (and of course you can easily scale this recipe up or down depending on how many people you're feeding: See my section below on scaling for how to do that).
I recommend talking with your fishmonger and specifying how much ground fish you want, and then asking for their help in determining how much whole fish will be required to accomplish that. Since you'll be buying the fish whole, you may end up erring on the side of slightly too much fish, but that is preferable to having too little for your needs.
The Importance of Cleaning the FishLet's assume that you have your fish and it's the right amount. Let's talk about about what to do with those bones and fish heads, since your fishmonger may still leave some work for you. Before cooking the fish bones and heads in the stock, you must make sure all the entrails are removed from the cavity and that the gills have been pulled fully out of the head, as the presence of any of that stuff will ruin the broth, turning it murky and foul.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIt's also a good idea to wash the bones and heads well, using your fingers to rub away as much remaining blood as possible. Most of it will be located in the head and along the spine. I've tested this before when I worked on my fish stock recipe, and found that while washing makes a cleaner, clearer, less funky stock, it's not something that has to be 100% perfect. A little bit remaining won't ruin anything.
To further ensure your fish stock cooks up nice and clean, I've also written an optional blanching step into the recipe, in which the bones are brought to a simmer to coagulate some of the free-floating proteins and impurities. After the bones are simmered briefly, they're dumped into a colander and rinsed; then the the bones go back in the pot with fresh water and aromatics (I've included some especially fresh-tasting ones like fennel and dill) to cook. You don't have to do this blanching step, but it will produce a cleaner stock in both looks and flavor.
In addition to cleaning the bones for a nice clear stock, you'll want to be sure to pick through the meat, whether you grind the fish yourself or the fishmonger does it for you. Bones and scales can slip through when the person prepping the fish is working quickly, and even some chunks of fish can pass through without being ground properly. Getting a little extra to account for loss as a result of picking through the ground fish is a good idea.
Ratios, Ratios, RatiosMaking the fish mixture for gefilte fish is easy as can be: Mix the ingredients together and...that's it. So my focus when developing this recipe was to get a better sense of the ratios of ingredients and how they impact the final results. My favorite way to do this is to create a spreadsheet and log the ingredient details of as many great recipes as I can find to compare ingredients and ratios. Then I go into the kitchen and test the variations I'm seeing in the recipes to find out which I like best.
The ingredients themselves are fairly consistent from recipe to recipe: They almost all contain fish, eggs, matzo meal, onion, salt, sugar, and spices (usually white or black pepper, sometimes a touch of nutmeg). Carrot is an important element in most gefilte fish recipes, with some including it in the forcemeat itself, though I grew up mostly eating gefilte fish with boiled carrot served as a garnish and not folded into the fish mixture, so that's what I stuck with here.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOnion: Some recipes have you sauté the onion first while others have it folded in raw. I tried both and decided I liked each in their own way, so I split the onion in half, cooking half of it for a sweeter, more tender bite and leaving the rest raw for a little more texture and pronounced allium flavor.
Egg: Most recipes use one large egg per pound of fish, and I found this worked well; adding two per pound made bouncier gefilte fish that started to seem a little rubbery.
Matzo meal: Matzo meal, meanwhile, was most pleasing to me at the lower end of the ratio spectrum, about 1/4 cup per pound. The inclusion of matzo in the recipe is often described as a tactic to stretch the fish to feed more people, and without a doubt adding bread or other starches to protein mixtures does accomplish that. But there are culinary reasons for it that are just as, if not more, important. A starch that is mixed into ground meat is known in French cooking as a panade, and it helps to both bind and tenderize the proteins, reducing their overall rubberiness once cooked. While I'm sure poor families in the past added hefty amounts of matzo meal to truly stretch the fish, the 1/4 cup per pound called for in my and many other modern recipes hardly adds any mass at all. It is not there for economics, it is there for gustatory reasons.
The panade, though, can dry a meat mixture out, especially when it's made from something as dry as matzo. So it's helpful to add a small amount of water to the forcemeat and let it stand for at least 30 minutes to hydrate the matzo and loosen the mixture. This is typical in many meatball and meatloaf recipes, and it's a good move here too even though some recipes don't call for it.
How to Scale This Recipe Up or DownAfter testing a range of ratios for various ingredients, I was able to nail down a basic per-pound recipe for gefilte fish. This is useful to know, as the recipe can easily be scaled up and down. If you only need to cook gefilte fish for a few people, you can probably make do with a one- or two-pound batch. If you need to feed a synagogue's worth of folks, you can scale it up (though you'll probably need to do it in batches at a certain point if the recipe exceeds the capacity of your gear).
For reference, here are my per-pound ratios so that you can scale as needed. Everything else about the recipe remains the same in terms of process and estimated cooking times.
Please don't take these precise numbers too literally. You do not need to measure 33 grams of matzo meal to the gram, nor do you need to go searching through your utensils drawer for a 1/3 teaspoon measure for the pepper—you can just go down to 1/4 teaspoon or up to 1/2 teaspoon for pound, or just eyeball it, which is what I would actually do in real life. Gefilte fish is forgiving and will be close enough as long as you're within these general ranges.
The main reason I'm specifying the brand of salt here is not because it's kosher, though that's a fitting choice for this recipe given its place on the Passover table, but instead because salt amounts can vary significantly when measured by volume. If you're using table salt and you measured one tablespoon, for example, you'd end up with twice as much salt as if you used Diamond Crystal. Similarly, Morton's kosher salt has a different mass per volume than Diamond Crystal, so once again, volumes are not equivalent. I, like many professional cooks and recipe developers, have grown very accustomed to Diamond Crystal, as it tends to be the basic salt of choice in most professional settings. They do not pay me to include their name, and I don't love giving them the free advertising, but it's important to be specific when it comes to salt to avoid problems when you're making this recipe at home.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOne final note: These seasonings are good to my taste, but the nice thing about a forcemeat like this is you can easily adjust. You should absolutely poach a small sample fish dumpling in the broth and taste it for seasoning before committing to cooking the whole batch. You can alway bump up the salt or sugar or make any other adjustments necessary before you cook the rest.
Let's Talk Sugar, BabySugar is possible one of the most divisive topics when it comes to how best to make gefilte fish, and the truth is there's no right answer. Preference for sweetness maps directly to where one's family comes from, and it's a clear enough demarcation in Europe that there's something literally called the Gefilte Fish Line: If your people came from the more Eastern portions of Ashkenazi lands, like Lithuania and Ukraine, the taste tends to lean more salty and savory. If you're from areas slightly more to the west, like Poland, the taste can become so sweet that it's a shock to many who have never experienced it before.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMy Jewish ancestors came from Latvia and so my tolerance for the super-sweet gefilte fish is limited. My recipe calls for only a touch of sugar to balance the more savory or salty elements, but not make the fish overtly sweet. If your tastes run more sweet than mine, the solution is as simple as adding more sugar until you hit the level you want. Once again, you can pinch off and cook sample bits of the forcemeat to get it where you want before you cook the rest.
Inspect fish heads and bone cages, removing and discarding any remaining viscera and gills if necessary. Under cold running water, wash fish heads and bone cages well, using your fingers to work away traces of blood, especially inside the head and along the spine (it doesn't have to be perfect, but try to get what you can).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer fish heads and bone cages to a large stock pot and add cold water until just covered. Set over high heat, bring to a bare simmer, then drain in a colander in the sink. Rinse out pot and fish bones and heads, then return to pot (this step, while optional, coagulates and removes proteins that can cloud up the stock for a more pristine result).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThinly slice 1 onion and add to stock pot along with celery, fennel, and parsley and dill sprigs. Cover with fresh cold water, set over medium-high heat and bring to a bare simmer. Reduce heat to maintain bare simmer and cook for 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile the stock cooks, finely dice remaining 3 onions. In a small skillet, heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add half the diced onion along with a pinch of salt and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 4 minutes. Set aside to cool.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer ground fish to a large mixing bowl. Carefully pick through ground fish, removing and discarding any bones or scales. Add raw onion, sautéed onion, matzo meal, eggs, salt, sugar, and pepper. Add 6 tablespoons (90ml) cold water, then stir until very well combined and fish mixture develops a slightly sticky texture. Let rest, refrigerated, for 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen fish stock is ready, strain through a fine-mesh strainer set over a large heatproof vessel. Discard solids and wash out stock pot. Return fish stock to stockpot.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezReturn fish stock to medium-high heat and bring to a simmer. Add sliced carrots.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing 2 large serving or sauce spoons, scoop up a generous ball of fish mixture and scrape it back and forth between the 2 spoons to form a compact football shape (if you want to make it look like a classic French quenelle, try to use the spoons to give it 3 defined sides). Carefully free the fish ball from the spoons and slide it right into the water. Repeat with remaining fish mixture until all has been formed into balls and added to the pot, shaking the pot from time to time to ensure fish balls do not stick to each other. Simmer until fish balls are cooked through and register 150°F (65°C) on an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center, 10 to 15 minutes. (Note that depending on the size of your pot, you may need to cook the fish mixture in batches. If you do need to do this, transfer the cooked fish balls to a platter, then add the next batch. Once all are cooked, add them back to the pot.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSeason fish broth with salt and sugar to taste, then let cool until warm. Serve gefilte fish warm with cooked carrots, parsley and/or dill garnish, and horseradish. Alternatively, cover and transfer to the refrigerator and allow to chill overnight, then serve chilled with carrots, herb garnish, horseradish, and, if desired, a small amount of aspic (the chilled, slightly gelled broth).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNotesWhile you can fillet, debone, and grind the meat from a whole fish yourself, it's a significant labor. It's much easier is to ask your fishmonger to do this for you; make sure to communicate that you want the bones, heads, and skin from the fish along with the meat. The ingredient list in this recipe calls for the weight of the ground fish instead of a starting weight for the whole fish because my experience is that the yield is too variable from the whole fish: I've seen many recipes that estimate that a 7-pound carp will yield more than three pounds of meat, but when I shopped for the fish to develop this recipe, I barely got four pounds of ground meat from 13 pounds of whole fish. Talk to your fishmonger about your desired yield of ground meat to ensure you get the right amount of whole fish.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI would not say these are the best of times. I would not say these are the chillest of times. I would not say, as we emerge from a dark and hot winter into a wet and hotter spring, that these are the most predictable of times. And yet I cannot tell you how excited I am that we are barreling toward Passover. Passover sucks (a week-plus of unleavened meals, a distinct heaviness in the form of constant reminders of our past, too much sugar-wine, etc.), but it always brings matzo times. And I positively adore matzo times.
To be clear: Matzo sucks, too. No, I hear you—matzo is a mammothly important food, a colossally symbolic one. No, no really—I understand (I will attach my Hebrew high school certificate here, where is yours?!)! But also, matzo is a worse version of a large and stale salt-free Saltine. Even when it’s at its absolute freshest and best, it’s still the same level of bad as when it’s been sitting inside a box in a damp basement for 11 and ¾ months. What other foods can you name that are, without exception, always at their very best…and simultaneously at their very worst? Matzo is so bad. I still love matzo.
Over the past few months, we have been subjected to the introduction of Girl Dinner, #WaterTok, Fruit Roll-Up ice cream, the cottage cheese-ification of everything…you’re familiar, I’m sure. Do you know what wasn’t featured in anyone’s Girl Dinners? Broken shards of solid flour-water. Do you know what no one was eating that made them so thirsty, prompting them to bum-rush an area Target and monopolize all the Stanleys? Holy holey cardboard. Matzo will never go viral. Nobody wants it to! None of us aspire to live in a world where matzo is aspirational. And that’s just some of the beauty of matzo.
Over the course of the next week, on the internet and IRL, we will see lush vats of charoset, hacks for horseradish housing, and takes on how to best arrange a Seder plate amidst a larger Seder spread, but no one will talk about matzo. We will all sit there and grimace as we pile charoset and then horseradish onto the vehicle that is matzo—a mandated player at the same table—and comment on everything we just ate…except for the matzo. To be clear, matzo will make continuous appearances in all this super-cute Seder content across the world during the holiday…but it will likely be enveloped in gorgeous, sentimental matzo covers, never to be seen by the naked eye. What other foods can you name that are, without exception, so synonymous with a holiday but nobody wants to talk about eating them?
Every year for as long as I can remember, right around the time the sun starts rising closer to 6 a.m. than to 7, two boxes of matzo appear on my parents’ countertop right by the coffee machine. They’re not prepping for Passover quite yet; not explicitly. But they’re slowly rotating buttered or cream-cheesed pieces of it into their breakfast routines. Different pots of toppings—sweet preserves, salty spreads, straight salt for that already salty butter—end up spread around their plates. They mix and match their matzo toppings from piece to piece. They offer me a piece every time, every single year, across days in February and the beginning of March, always insisting the strawberry jam makes it so much better. It doesn’t, and they know it, but it’s nice that we all pretend.
A few weeks later, fresh boxes stack up on their counter, next to the fridge, on the table. There’s a lot of fucking matzo before there’s none at all for months and months. I love the brown-and-yellow stacks of boxes. I love the pre-matzo times that every single year dovetail us right into the matzo times. They are completely predictable, unremarkable times, and I love the bowel-clogging cracker that ushers all of it in.
Passover sucks. Matzo sucks. I love Passover. I love the matzo times.
Serious Eats / Vy TranVietnamese bánh tráng (rice paper) is endlessly adaptable. After soaking, it can be stuffed with vegetables, herbs, meat, or seafood for a soft summer roll, or crisped to a golden crunch. Rice paper recipes are also ideal for the warmer months; since the wrapper itself isn't heavy, almost anything you chose to stuff it with turns it into a light meal or snack. Keep reading for some of our favorites!
Bánh Tráng Nướng (Grilled Vietnamese Rice Paper With Egg, Pork, and Condiments)Serious Eats / Jenny DorseyA popular street food among school kids in Vietnam, bánh tráng nướng features a lightly crispy rice paper cracker layered with any number of delicious toppings.
Nem Nướng Cuốn (Vietnamese Grilled Pork Paste Rice Paper Rolls)Serious Eats / Vy TranThese regional Nha Trang version of rice paper rolls feature springy grilled pork paste, fried egg roll skins, and fresh herbs rolled up and served with a vibrant pork peanut dipping sauce.
Chả Giò (Vietnamese Imperial Rolls)Serious Eats / Vy TranVietnamese imperial rolls’ unique crispy fried exterior and sumptuous filling make a great appetizer or topping for a rice noodle bowl.
Easy Vegan Crispy Tofu Spring RollsSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThese spring rolls are filled with fried and smothered tofu, pea shoots, carrot matchsticks, thin chile slices, and all the herbs.
Summer Rolls With Jicama, Watermelon, and HerbsSerious Eats / Vicky WasikKeep cool with these refreshing no-cook summer rolls, filled with watermelon, jicama, and herbs.
Vietnamese Grilled Shrimp Summer RollsSerious Eats / Joshua BouselThese Vietnamese summer rolls include fresh greens, tangy pickles, and grilled shrimp, delivering bright seasonal flavors.
Nem Lụi Huế (Huế Lemongrass Pork Skewers)Serious Eats / Vy TranSucculent, flavorful, and fragrant Huế lemongrass pork with a tangy, earthy pork-peanut sauce are the ultimate street food. Served it an impressive platter with rice paper and vermicelli to make it a full meal.
Serious Eats / Greg BakerWhen I owned restaurants, I had an enormous smoker in the back of one that ran almost daily. There was always mullet (the fish—it's a Florida thing), bacon, pastrami, ham, or the occasional whole pig that needed several hours of bathing in smoke. I often used charcoal as my starter, which provided a good base heat before adding oak logs. And, like many people, I used a chimney starter to get those coals hot.
Charcoal chimney starters are super easy to use: fill them, light 'em, walk away for about 25 minutes and you've got coals ready to go. I’ve used several brands of chimneys over the years but never did anything resembling a side-by-side comparison. But, recently, the opportunity arose to do just that. I collected nine of the top-selling charcoal chimneys of varying capacities and designs and put them through several rounds of tests with lump and briquette charcoal. The smoke of 78 pounds of charcoal cleared, and here’s what I found.
The Winners, at a GlanceIt was a close battle between the Weber Rapidfire Chimney Starter and the Outset model below. While the Outset has more versatility (it’s also a grill) and just barely edged out the Weber in the speed tests, the Weber Rapidfire’s handle stayed cooler; although it did take some heat, it wasn’t so hot that I couldn’t lift it bare-handed. The Weber chimney was also slightly easier to use since it didn’t require unfolding or assembly.
This “camping grill” from Outset is an amazingly efficient charcoal chimney in its own right. It’s capacious and has large lighting holes that allow easy access with a stick lighter or match. It’s constructed to promote airflow, and I was able to quickly light briquettes and lump charcoal with little mucking about. It requires about 30 seconds of assembly, which consists of unfolding it and popping two grates inside.
The Char-Griller chimney is another high-capacity starter with a release latch on the handle that allows you to dump the charcoal out of the bottom rather than turning the chimney over to pour it. It’s easy to fill and light, and it performed well with lump charcoal (and briquettes, too).
This chimney from Lodge is smaller than the other winners, but it still holds 3.5 quarts of charcoal briquettes, which is plenty to get started cooking on an average-sized grill. It has easy-access lighting holes, a handle that stayed relatively cool to the touch, and the hopper was easy to fill and dump when the coals were ready.
The TestsSerious Eats / Greg Baker Capacity Test: Almost every chimney manufacturer in our tests listed its chimney’s capacity in different ways. Some were by weight, some by volume, and others just leaned into vagueness with “substantial” as an amount. How does one reconcile and quantify these descriptors? I loaded each chimney with briquettes, counting as I went to arrive at a standard unit of capacity measurement. * Six-Quart Charcoal Test (Larger Chimneys): The next test determined how quickly a large-capacity chimney would light a full load of charcoal briquettes. I filled each large-capacity chimney with two sheets of crumpled newspaper and six quarts of briquettes, an amount that would cover a single layer across most charcoal grills. Then, I placed them on top of a Weber kettle grill and lit the paper with a stick lighter. I started a stopwatch and recorded the time expired between the paper fully igniting and the top coals catching and ashing over. Then, I lifted the chimney, noting how hot the handle got in the lighting process, and deposited the coals into the grill. * Three-Quart Charcoal Test: Just because you have a high-capacity chimney doesn’t mean you always want a full load of charcoal. Your grill may be smaller, or you might only be quickly searing a couple of pieces of meat. As I noted, not every chimney held six quarts, either. To see how well high-capacity chimneys performed with a smaller load and to test the lower-capacity models, I tested them by using three quarts of briquettes. Again, I timed how long each model took, from lighting to the top briquettes ashing over, how cool or hot the handle was, and how easy it was to deposit the charcoal into the grill. * Lump Charcoal Test:* Since lump and charcoal briquettes are significantly different (briquettes are essentially compressed charcoal powder while lump is whole wood), for our final test, I loaded each chimney with three quarts of lump hardwood charcoal, timed how long they took to reach full ignition, and noted how easily I could deposit the coals into the grill.
What We LearnedMost Charcoal Chimneys Were Very Easy to UseChimneys consist of two parts: the upper section (let’s call it the hopper), which holds your charcoal on a conical spring-like piece of metal. The bottom part is hollow, with air holes around the base, and it holds your paper or lighter blocks. After loading the hopper with charcoal, place some paper in the bottom section and light the paper on fire. The flames from the paper burn upwards towards the charcoal, which then, in turn, catches fire and burns its way to the top layer of coals.
One important thing to realize is the stated lighting time is usually listed in vague terms like “In as little as 10 minutes!” You will probably never replicate the conditions that led to that claim, so be prepared to wait longer to grill. Here are my timed results from the three-quart charcoal test to give you a more accurate picture:
Capacity Varied WidelySerious Eats / Greg BakerCharcoal chimney starter manufacturers list their models’ capacities in ways that suit them. That capacity could be weight, volume, or a vague descriptor like “large” or “substantial.” Their true capacity came to light when I filled each chimney with briquettes. There was a certain level of standardization when I did this, and I found numbers often repeating. The table below shows the brands and results of the capacity test.
A larger-capacity charcoal chimney is the most versatile, even if you're only grilling a small amount of food. That said, if storage space is limited (or you only grill once in a blue moon), the 3.5 quart Lodge proved its mettle in my tests.
Airflow Was EverythingSerious Eats / Greg BakerConvection is the key to chimney starter success. After you've lit newspaper or starter blocks, air enters the bottom and flows upwards, heating the charcoal until the top coals are ashy. Without adequate airflow, there’s no convection and, consequently, poor ignition. Models with too little airflow, such as the BBQ Dragon Chimney of Insanity, performed poorly and required relighting to get the charcoal burning. Too much airflow can also be detrimental, as I tested on breezy days and found the paper will burn faster than the charcoal can catch. Even if your chimney has the best convection design, you can stymie it by packing too much (or too tightly packed) paper in the bottom.
Handles Were Cooler Than ExpectedIt’s been a few years since I’ve used a charcoal chimney regularly, so during my testing I was impressed by the advances in handle design. In the past, it was just a given that you’d protect your hand with a kitchen towel or grill glove. Models from Char-Griller, Lodge, and Weber had the best designs, utilizing heat shields to deflect heat and keeping the handles cool enough to pick the chimney up with bare hands.
Not All Chimneys Are Good for Both Types of CharcoalSince lump charcoal and briquettes are fundamentally different animals, you should expect different lighting results. Some chimneys, like the Kingsford Heavy Duty Deluxe, shone brightly during our briquette testing, only to fizzle when faced with lump charcoal. Models from Beau Jardin, Weber, and Char-Griller put up the best showing across the two types, while the Outset and Lodge models took better to briquettes. Sadly, I couldn’t find a clear rhyme or reason as to why certain chimneys did better or worse with different charcoal types.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Charcoal Chimney StarterSerious Eats / Greg Baker / Grace KellyI will scream this from the mountain tops: airflow is everything. The best charcoal chimneys have good convection: air goes into the bottom, gets heated and drawn up through the chimney (which gets the coals burning), and exits at the top. Good chimneys also have a heat shield to protect the handle, allowing you to lift and dump the coals into the grill. Finally, it should be easy to light with holes on the side to make it easy (though holes on the bottom work in a pinch). After that, the capacity depends on your needs, based on your grill size and preferences. If you primarily use lump charcoal, consider our top performers in that area, like the Char-Griller or Weber Rapidfire.
Our Favorite Charcoal Chimney StartersWhat we liked: The Weber Rapidfire is an extremely easy-to-use chimney with a large hopper, ample room for paper or lighter cubes, and a handle that stays cool. None of the chimneys I tested lived up to their advertised lighting time, so I’m not out of line in saying that the startup time of just under 30 minutes for a six-quart load of briquettes was a solid performance. The Weber also had one of the best convection designs, making it one of the fastest to light, too. It’s also quite affordable.
What we didn’t like: It didn’t fare as well when lighting lump charcoal. After about 10 minutes, when the first batch of paper burned out, I had to add more and relight it. After that, things moved along rapidly. The bottom holes that facilitate convection were just shy of the size of my stick lighter, which forced me to light it from the bottom. If the holes were just a wee bit larger, the chimney would be significantly easier to light.
Key Specs Stated capacity: 5 pounds * Tested capacity: 100 briquettes * Dimensions: 12 x 7.5 inches * Materials: Aluminized steel, thermoplastic * Handle dimensions:* 5.75 x 1.25 inches
Serious Eats / Greg BakerWhat we liked: This chimney's large capacity and easy lighting made it a strong contender for top model. Large bottom holes—more than adequate to insert a lighter—provided excellent airflow and easy lighting. Again, none of the chimneys lived up to their advertised lighting times, but the Outset was our fastest briquette-lighting model, taking 26 minutes to light six quarts and 20 minutes for three.
What we didn’t like: The Outset was one of the few that didn’t require relighting during the lump charcoal test, but it had one of the longest lighting times at about 36 minutes. After the second (three-quart) test I noticed some of the interior finish flaking, and the handle got uncomfortably warm.
Key Specs Stated capacity: 7 pounds * Tested capacity: 100 briquettes * Dimensions: 10.75 x 8.5 inches * Materials: Zinc, chrome, Nylon * Handle dimensions:* 5 x 1
Serious Eats / Greg BakerWhat we liked: The Char-Griller’s large capacity and easy lighting were definite pluses. It was one of the fastest to light, no matter the volume or charcoal type. It was also one of two chimneys I didn’t have to relight during the lump charcoal test, and it had the charcoal ready to go in about 23 minutes. The dispensing feature, which consists of a handle-release latch that releases a “trap door” at the hopper’s bottom, was a nice addition; it allowed me to hold the whole thing over the grill, squeeze the release lever, and the charcoal fell out the bottom. It was also easy to load, and the handle stayed cool while the charcoal burned.
What we didn’t like: I’m not anyone’s idea of a small person, and I had some difficulty holding the chimney with a full six-quart load and squeezing the release lever with one hand. The handle stayed cool during the lighting process, so that wasn’t an issue—it was just an unwieldy combination of holding the chimney upright while squeezing. It was a much easier task with the three-quart load, but still clumsy. A personal annoyance: one briquette stuck in the trap door arrangement that dumps the charcoal, and life got a little hairy when I shook it loose, and the briquette headed straight for my bare foot. Like the Weber, the bottom holes are too small for a lighter, so you have to light the chimney from the underside.
Key Specs Stated capacity: 4 pounds * Tested capacity: 90 briquettes * Dimensions: 10.75 x 8.75 inches * Materials: Zinc-coated galvanized steel, Nylon * Handle dimensions:* 5 x 1 inches
Serious Eats / Greg BakerWhat we liked: Let’s be clear about the small-capacity designation—the Lodge chimney still held 3.5 quarts or 60 briquettes. That’s not an insignificant amount to get grilling on. Plus, it had three quarts of charcoal briquettes ready in 22 minutes. The bottom design, which featured oval-shaped slots, was excellent for airflow and lighting. Those slots provided plenty of room to insert a stick lighter, making it easy to ensure the paper was burning fully at the start of the test. The handle stayed cool thanks to a heat shield between it and the hopper.
What we didn’t like: Although lump charcoal only took 30 minutes to light, I had to restart the test after it didn’t ignite the first time. A wider hopper would add a little more capacity without negatively affecting the airflow.
Key Specs Stated capacity: “Substantial” * Tested capacity: 60 briquettes * Dimensions: 12 x 6.25 inches * Materials: Galvanized steel, wood * Handle dimensions:* 7 x 1 inches
Serious Eats / Greg BakerThe CompetitionAlso Recommended* Kingsford Heavy Duty Deluxe Charcoal Chimney Starter: This chimney had okay results during the briquette testing, which took a little over 30 minutes to complete. Fifty-six minutes into the lump testing, I had already restarted the test three times and called it a day. It’s got large holes for lighting and is very easy to use, but reserve it for briquettes only. * Weber Rapidfire Compact Chimney Starter Charcoal Grill: This compact version of Weber’s Rapidfire chimney works fairly well. It has a capacity of about two quarts, which is great for smaller or portable grills, but it takes more time to ignite coals than its larger sibling.
Not Recommended* BBQ Dragon Chimney of Insanity Charcoal Starter: A name like Chimney of Insanity sets expectations for impressive results, for better or worse. Sadly, as a standalone chimney, this model was exceptionally mediocre. I had to restart it with fresh paper during the three-quart and lump charcoal tests since there was precious little airflow; this is partially because most of the space is dominated by an air shaft intended for use with the optional BBQ Dragon. It eventually lit the briquettes, taking about 20 minutes to do so. As an experiment, after the chimney had timed out of consideration for the lump charcoal test, I decided to emulate the BBQ Dragon. This optional fan fits into the Chimney of Insanity’s air shaft. I inserted a leaf blower into the shaft (this is why women live longer than men), the chimney burst into flames, and the lump charcoal was ready a short time later. This chimney might deliver on its name with the BBQ Dragon (or a good leaf blower), but not on its own. * Beau Jardin Charcoal Chimney Starter: The Beau Jardin is a good charcoal chimney. It did well in the three-quart and lump tests, lighting the lump charcoal in about 15 minutes. However, I had to restart the test after the paper burned out without igniting any charcoal. It performed well, but it didn’t draw any response from me other than, “It’s okay.” Full disclosure: I’ve used this chimney in the past, and it didn’t have great longevity, as it fell apart after about a month of semi-daily use. * Konexcel Heavy Duty Charcoal Chimney Starter: When I said “airflow is everything,” I meant it. The Konexcel has very little; without that crucial convection starting, a chimney won’t light efficiently. I had to restart this chimney during every test and abandoned the lump test after the third try. After the three-quart test, the handle became “bouncy,” for lack of a better word. The handle didn't wiggle like the rivets were loose; it just got oddly flexible, which gave me low expectations for the chimney’s longevity.
FAQsDo you need to clean a charcoal chimney?A charcoal chimney needs about as much care and attention as a hearty houseplant, which is to say, the bare minimum. You don’t need to scrub, rinse, or otherwise wash your chimney, but you do need to dump any residual ash and keep it out of the elements when not in use.
What’s the best charcoal to use? “The best” depends on your preference for lump or briquette charcoal. I’m firmly in the lump camp because when I grill, it’s usually a slow cooking technique, and lump charcoal adds more flavor and burns longer than briquettes. However, you might find briquettes easier for quickly grilling some burgers or hot dogs.
Are charcoal chimneys worth it?This answer depends on how you feel about lighter fluid. I can’t bring myself to pour toxic chemicals on the charcoal I’ll soon burn to cook my food over. That leaves me with two other realistic choices, and the chimney is the more sustainable option. We’ll discuss the other in a moment.
What can I use if I don’t have a charcoal chimney? There’s always lighter fluid, although I advise against it. You can buy lighter blocks or cubes (like these, from Weber or Kingsford) made of compressed wood or cardboard, often coated in paraffin, and place them in the grill around your piled-up charcoal to start it. There’s also the option of building a small kindling fire and adding your charcoal after it’s burning.
How long do you leave charcoal in a chimney? Time is a horrible unit of measure in cooking. There are simply too many variables to say X will always cook for Y time. That said, you’ll leave your charcoal in the chimney until the top layer is glowing and ashy. Per my tests, that can take between 15 and 30 minutes.
What is the science behind a charcoal chimney? Chimneys work via convection. When you light a fire in the chimney’s bottom, you create a draft of heat rising. The holes in the bottom allow airflow, heated by the burning paper (or lighter block.) The heated air rises, spreading the fire upwards until the top coals ignite and you have ready-to-use charcoal.
Why We’re the Experts * Greg Baker is a former James Beard nominated chef from Tampa Bay, Florida. * He’s written about sous vide machines, vacuum sealers, and pizza gear for Serious Eats. * For this review, Greg burned through 78 pounds of charcoal to find the best charcoal chimney starters. He evaluated them based on how easy they were to set up and use, and how quickly and efficiently they heated briquette and lump charcoal. * He may have gotten a little enthusiastic and used a leaf blower to instigate one of the poor performers to light—sadly, it was still a loser.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf you’re an Eagles fan or a Kelce stan (doesn't matter which one), you probably saw this headline recently: Jason Kelce lost his Super Bowl ring during a scavenger hunt in…a tub of Skyline Chili. We, a group of Skyline Chili passionates, had so many questions. And then we learned that some used a metal detector to look for the ring in said tub of chili…which led to even more questions.
“There’s actually metal in Skyline Chili,” Kelce said on an April 17 episode of his podcast New Heights: ”There’s traces of iron within the chili itself.” This, apparently, led the metal detector searching for his ring to go off continuously, and he ultimately wasn’t able to locate it (...he still hasn't, legend has it, at the time of this publication). But was it pieces of metal in the chili or the iron found in beef that was supposedly triggering the metal detector? We wondered: Can food really set off a metal detector? We tapped in some experts to see what they had to say.
According to cookbook author and molecular biologist Nik Sharma, you can’t detect molecular iron in meat. He compared it to blood in humans: “We have iron in our blood. If you put the machine on your hand, is it going to ping?” He notes that iron on a molecular level, whether in humans or animals, can be detected using electrode testing—AKA blood testing—but not metal detectors. Sharma concludes that it’s more likely that the detector was set off by metal embedded in the chili’s container.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMichael Stepanian, a manager for a liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry department (which studies known and unknown compounds in different molecules) at a Virginia lab, was also skeptical. “Biological iron is not iron from ore,” he says. He notes that grass and soil contain molecular iron, but they won’t set off the detector, just like they wouldn’t in a human.
“I’ve gone through metal detectors and my body doesn’t set it off,” says Stepanian. “Otherwise everyone’s body would light up like a Christmas tree.” Still, a handheld detector is more sensitive than one you’d walk through. It’s more likely, he says, that any metal tracings—iron or otherwise—are from contamination before or during meat processing. A handheld detector would be able to detect even a few tiny particles of metal from a machine, like those from a deli slicer.
Dr. Eric Boring, a chemist at Consumer Reports who oversees food safety testing, also chimed in. “It depends on the food, and how sensitive the device is,” he says. “I'm not sure about the handheld metal detectors, but airport metal detectors have gone off from oysters, which are one of the highest sources of dietary iron and average about eight milligrams of iron per three-ounce serving.” It’s more likely, though, that any metal detected in meat or fish is a piece of metal that animals have consumed before being processed, Stepanian theorized.
We reached out to Skyline Chili with requests for comments, but have yet to hear back. We’ll let you know if and when they respond. In the meantime, don’t tell me you’re not hungry for a bowl of Cincinnati chili right now—because I’d gladly eat it any day, metal detection be damned!!
Serious Eats / Kelli Solomon, Amanda SuarezWhen I finally shake off the winter doldrums each spring, one of the first things I do is fire up the grill. Truthfully, I'm not opposed to using the grill any time of year—there may even be a photo of me shoveling a pathway on my dad's deck from the door to the grill and nowhere else—but my commitment to grilling kicks into high gear, when I have access to all the seasonal green veggies: ramps, garlic scapes, and, of course, asparagus.
The only problem with these spring grill-ables is that they all have a not-so-nifty habit of falling right through the grate. Sure you could save your asparagus by cooking them on a grill griddle if you have one, but what if you don't want to occupy the grate real estate? A grilling basket is another option, but it comes with its own downsides (more on that below). So, I decided to try out a hack that’s been going around TikTok in which multiple stalks of asparagus are skewered through each end to for an asparagus raft. The goal of this trick is to prevent them from falling through the grate as they grill. Spoiler alert: This hack is very annoying to execute.
Serious Eats / Kelli SolomonWhy the Raft Is a Technique That SinksThe skewers do not easily slide through the asparagus, especially the thick asparagus that work best for grilling. Plus, keeping everything lined up while skewering both sides of each stalk is tricky. When I created my rafts, I found it difficult to keep the spears aligned. You also run the risk of poking yourself when trying to wrangle two skewers at the same time. Additionally, when you’re ready to serve your lovely charred asparagus, you’ll have to deal with removing the skewers. Maybe you were using fancy metal skewers and this is easy peasy, but if you were using wooden skewers and they got charred, then this part will be very annoying.
Is it Better to Just Use a Grill Basket?Possibly, but I had a few issues with the tool. When I put my asparagus inside the basket, everything appeared secure, but as they cooked, they shrunk a bit, and when I moved the grate from the grill, a few stranglers fell right through the holes of the basket and almost plummeted through the grates. It's not the end of the world, but it kind of defeats the purpose. A basket with smaller holes would solve this problem, but do you really need another grilling contraption? Plus, a basket crowds the asparagus, which can inhibit even browning.
Serious Eats / Kelli SolomonThere Must Be a Better Way to SkewerWhy yes, there is a better way, the Japanese way—yakitori-style. Proper yakitori—Japanese-style grilled chicken skewers—requires a specialized setup, not your standard grill, but the skewering technique works perfectly for asparagus. Cut the asparagus into bite-sized pieces and slide them perpendicularly onto pre-soaked skewers, instead of creating one giant raft. Individual skewers take a little longer to assemble but are so much easier to serve. No need to remove the skewers before plating, and you can eat your food right off the skewers.
Serious Eats / Kelli SolomonFor my skewers, I cut asparagus, portobello mushrooms, scallions, and pork belly into half-inch pieces. Then I threaded them all onto the soaked skewers (don’t forget to soak to prevent fires!), alternating meat and veggies in a different order on each skewer. I fired up the grill to high and placed the skewers on the oiled grates. Little flare-ups gave the skewers a nice char as the fat rendered from the pork.
Serious Eats / Kelli SolomonEven with the addition of the pork belly, it took less than four minutes on each side for the skewers to cook. The smell was barbecue bliss—smoky and sweet. The asparagus was charred on the outside and tender on the inside, and the pork was tender, mingling well with the sweet scallions and umami-forward mushrooms. Now you could make your own teriyaki sauce or even a more complicated tare, like in this tsukune recipe, but I went with something. A squeeze of Bachan’s Japanese-style miso barbecue sauce after cooking hit just right for me. The bottom line—skip the asparagus raft and grill up some yakitori-style asparagus.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen I was a kid, one of my favorite treats was a lemon stick—a candied lemon straw pierced into a cut lemon half. Every sip through the candied straw brought a jolt of fresh lemon juice so intense it always made me pucker. I haven't eaten lemon sticks since I was a child, but as an adult I satisfy my craving for that sweet-tart jolt by making lemon tarts professionally and at home. To me, a great lemon tart should make your mouth pucker so much that your eyes open wide too, and that’s what I was aiming for when I developed this recipe: a filling that’s sweet, yes, but also has a powerful fresh lemon punch.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn this recipe, the lemon curd is intensely bright tasting, sharp, and tangy with a silky smooth texture that’s creamy and dense enough to hold together once the tart is sliced. The filling’s velvety texture is countered by a crunchy shortbread-like crust. Not only does this tart taste fantastic (if I do say so myself), the whole thing requires just 15 minutes of active prep time, followed by 40 minutes of baking (that includes baking the tart crust and cooking the lemon curd), and an hour of resting. Here’s how to do it.
How to Make an Intensely Tart Lemon Curd FillingI’ve professionally baked and eaten a lot of lemon tarts over the years and the biggest problem with most of them was that they simply were not lemony enough. These subpar tarts were cloyingly sweet or unpleasantly eggy. A great lemon curd needs to celebrate the fruit’s fresh flavor, and the first way to ensure this is to use more lemon than you would expect. Through testing many rounds of curds, I found that to achieve a supremely tart tart, you need to use an aggressive amount of both lemon zest and lemon juice.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe other way to get the sharpest lemon flavor possible is to cut down on the amount of sweetener used in the filling, and to use honey instead of granulated sugar. In my research, most recipes call for at least a full cup of granulated sugar to sweeten the curd filling. I tried this standard at the start of recipe testing, but the result was a cloyingly sweet and dull lemon filling. I tested again using less sugar, going all the way down to a half cup. With less sugar, the flavor was sharper and closer to that pucker-worthy lemon filling flavor I wanted. But the filling still didn’t taste as vibrant as I wanted. The solution was using honey instead of granulated sugar in the lemon filling. Honey's mild floral flavor pairs perfectly with the sharp lemons and adds a subtle depth of flavor to the curd.
The other ingredients in the curd are fairly straightforward. A combination of three whole eggs and a full six eggs yolks thickens and emulsifies the curd, giving it its signature creamy but sliceable texture. Using extra yolks also means you don’t need to thicken the filling with cornstarch or flour, which can add an unwelcome grainy texture. After the curd is cooked and strained, a few tablespoons of butter are whisked in for a hint of richness to balance the sharp lemon flavor. The whole process of making the curd takes about 10 minutes.
Pair It With an Easy Pat-in-the-Pan Shortbread-Style CrustOnce you have your tart filling prepped, all you have to do is pour it into a prepared tart shell. While you can use a store-bought shell or a classic French pâte sucrée—which requires a stand mixer and hours of chilling before rolling the dough out—my go-to is the simple pat-in-the-pan crust I’ve included here. (The tart shell is great for other fillings too). This buttery, shortbread-like shell is the perfect container for the tart lemon filling. It's sturdy when handled but tender once bitten into and the buttery flavor pairs perfectly with the bright lemon.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe tart crust takes only a few minutes to prepare and you can make the lemon curd while the crust bakes. The hardest part of this recipe might be the fact that you need to wait at least an hour for the tart to fully cool and the curd filling to set before slicing and serving.
For the Crust: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350℉. In a large bowl, whisk flour, sugar, and salt together. Pour butter and water into the flour mixture and using a flexible spatula, stir until well combined and a uniform dough is formed.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing your hands, pinch off and distribute three-quarters of the dough over the bottom of a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Using your hands and an off-set spatula or the bottom of a large measuring cup, press dough to an even thickness in the bottom of the pan. Pinch the remaining dough into smaller pieces and scatter evenly around the edge of the pan, then use your fingers to press dough into fluted sides of the pan. Press dough to even thickness until sides are completely covered.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPlace the dough-lined pan on wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet and bake until crust is light golden brown and firm to touch, 25 to 35 minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking. Set aside until ready to fill. (Cooled crust can be wrapped loosely in plastic wrap and stored at room temperature for up to 24 hours.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Lemon Filling: Whisk eggs and yolks, honey, lemon zest and juice, and salt together in a medium saucepan until smooth. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with rubber spatula, until mixture thickens slightly and registers 165°F, 5 to 7 minutes. Off heat, whisk in butter until melted. Strain lemon curd through fine-mesh strainer set over a bowl, then gently stir cream into the strained mixture with a rubber spatula.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPour the warm lemon curd over the baked crust. Bake until the filling is shiny and opaque and center jiggles slightly when shaken, 10 to 12 minutes, rotating halfway through baking. Cool on a wire rack to room temperature, at least 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment9-inch tart pan with removable bottom, wire rack and rimmed baking sheet, medium saucepan
NotesIf you do not have heavy cream on hand, you can omit and add an additional 2 tablespoons butter in its place.
Make-Ahead and StorageCrust can be made up to 24 hours in advance of filling. After baking, cool crust completely, then wrap loosely in plastic wrap and store at room temperature until ready to fill.
Leftover tart can be covered with plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezA tender, buttery, and beautiful crust is a hallmark of any great dessert tart, whether you're filling the shell with a thick pastry cream and artfully fanned fresh fruit or a silky chocolate ganache. A well-made tart shell is reminiscent of buttery shortbread—sturdy when handled but tender and crumbly once bitten into. And it needs to support even the heaviest of fillings without crumbling into pieces or getting soggy.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe classic three French tart doughs—shorty and crumby pâte sucrée, buttery and sandy pâte sablée, and flaky pâte brisée—all make incredible tart shells, but all three doughs require cold butter, precise mixing techniques, and hours of chilling before the dough is rolled out with a rolling pin, followed by even more chilling after the tart shell is lined with the dough before baking. It is labor intensive to say the least, and this doesn’t even account for the tart’s filling! I wanted to make a tart shell with a sturdy melt-in-your-mouth cookie texture similar to a pâte sucrée, but I wanted a dough that was much easier to put together and didn’t require the use of a stand mixer or hours of chilling time before baking.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn this simple pat-in-the-pan tart shell, the dry ingredients are combined in a large bowl before melted butter is gently stirred in until a cohesive dough forms. Unlike pâte sucrée, once this easy dough is formed it can be immediately pinched and patted into the tart pan and then baked. It requires no chilling time or rolling. Here are some tips for making a buttery and crumbly tart crust that comes together in under an hour.
Start with Good ButterA tart shell is more than just a pretty fluted vessel for its filling. A great crust needs to taste buttery and rich with a hint of sweetness to complement a range of fillings. And with so few ingredients, most of the tart dough’s flavor comes from the butter. So start with good quality butter—one that you would enjoy all on its own smothered over a piece of bread.
I recommend going with a butter with a substantial amount of butterfat. I tested this recipe with both European-style butter, which typically has an 82 to 85% butterfat range, as well as American butter, which usually has about 80% butterfat, and they both work very well. But the slightly higher butterfat percentage in European-style butter, such as Kerrygold or Plugrà, gives the butter—and thus the tart shell—a richer flavor than most American-style butters and I slightly prefer that extra rich taste.
Beyond the butterfat percentage, butter’s flavor is influenced by what the cows are eating. I prefer the more complex flavor of butter that comes from grass-fed cows over butter from grain-fed cows. Beyond that, my general rule (and the rule we all follow at Serious Eats) is to use unsalted butter when baking. That’s because the amount of salt used in salted butter can vary not just from brand to brand, but even from stick to stick. When using unsalted butter you eliminate the salt variable, and instead rely on a measured amount of salt in the dough.
Use Melted Butter Instead of Cold Butter for an Easier Tart DoughIn addition to lending its flavor, butter also contributes to the tart shell’s “shortness,” the crumbly texture you’ll find in shortbread and some other cookies. How you incorporate the butter into the dough determines the dough’s final texture. The classic pâte sucrée starts by creaming butter with sugar to create pockets of air that steam during baking to create a tart shell with a lighter texture.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWith this simple tart dough, a lighter aerated dough is not the goal, so I skip the creaming and chilling steps associated with pâte sucrée and instead the butter is melted and stirred into the flour mixture by hand. The melted butter coats the flour evenly, which restricts gluten development to achieve an ideal short and tender tart crust. There’s also no need to chill the dough after mixing. (Genevieve uses this same trick in her easy shortbread.)
For Easier Shaping, Press the Dough Into the Pan Right After MixingOnce the dough is mixed, it’s easiest to line the tart shell while the dough is still warm and malleable from the hot melted butter. Once it cools it will firm up and be harder to shape. The easiest way to line the tart shell is to simply pinch roughly one- to two-inch pieces of the dough off at a time and scatter them around the bottom and up the sides of the tart pan, pressing into an even layer as you go and making sure to press firmly into the fluted sides of the pan. I recommend using a small offset spatula or a large measuring cup to help smooth the bottom.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor pressing the dough into the sides of the tart shell, your fingers are the best tool. The dough should be flush to the top edge of the pan. You can use a bench scraper or knife to trim off any excess dough.
Skip Blind Baking and Bake at a Steady TemperatureWith classic preparation for French tart dough, as described above, cold butter is creamed and aerated to lighten the dough slightly as it bakes. To control the dough puffing when the empty tart shell is baked, most recipes rely on first blind baking the shell. This process suppresses any large air bubbles that may initially form in the dough. It seems a bit counterintuitive, right? Work really hard and take the time to keep the dough cold to create these light air pockets, only to then suppress them by weighing them down. You want the dough lightened, but still short and cookie-like. It’s a dance of control for a just right texture that is challenging to achieve.
We skip this entire cold butter/blind bake dance by starting with melted butter. When melted butter is used, the risk of steam bubbles puffing up the dough is minimized. There is no need to blind bake the crust. Sure, the final texture might be a bit more “short” than a classic pâte sucrée, but it is the sturdy melt-in-your-mouth cookie texture I wanted in my tart shell. To achieve an even light golden color from edge to edge, this recipe calls for baking the shell at a moderate baking temperature of 350℉ the entire time. You are basically baking one large cookie.
Add Optional Flavor to Your Tart CrustAnother perk to this easier approach to tart dough is that you can adapt the shell’s flavor as well. Below the main recipe are methods for how to make a brown butter crust, a chocolate crust, and a citrus crust. Whether you stick with the classic butter tart dough, or choose one of these flavor variations, I hope this one-bowl tart dough recipe is easy and approachable enough to inspire you to make more tarts. This recipe works well with our lemon tart recipe, or top it with lemon, chocolate, or vanilla pastry cream and your preferred sliced seasonal fruit for an impressive fruit tart.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350℉ (175℃). In a large bowl, whisk flour, sugar, and salt together. Pour butter and water into the flour mixture and, using a flexible spatula, stir until well combined and a uniform dough is formed.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing your hands, pinch off and distribute three-quarters of the dough over the bottom of a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Press dough to an even thickness in the bottom of the pan. Pinch the remaining dough into smaller pieces and scatter evenly around the edge of the pan, then press dough into fluted sides of the pan. Press dough to even thickness until sides are completely covered.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPlace the lined tart pan on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet and bake until the crust is light golden brown and firm to touch, 25 to 35 minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking. Set aside until ready to fill.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom, wire rack, rimmed baking sheet
Tart Crust Flavor VariationsFor a brown butter tart dough: In the first step, first melt the butter in small saucepan over medium-high heat, swirling saucepan occasionally, until foaming subsides. Cook, stirring and scraping bottom of saucepan with a spatula, until milk solids are dark golden brown and butter has nutty aroma, 1 to 3 minutes. Remove the saucepan from heat and add an additional tablespoon of water. (This compensates for the moisture lost while browning the butter.) When bubbling subsides, transfer the browned butter to a bowl and let cool slightly before pouring it into the flour mixture and proceeding with the recipe.
For a chocolate tart dough: Reduce the flour amount to 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour and add 1/4 cup Dutch processed cocoa powder to the flour mixture. When baking, it will be harder to notice the visual cues of doneness since the tart will already be dark brown before baking. Instead, rely on the time, smell, and touch to tell when the chocolate tart shell is properly baked. The shell should feel firm and crisp to the touch.
For a citrus-scented tart dough: Mince 3 teaspoons grated lemon, orange, or lime zest as fine as possible before whisking into the flour mixture in the first step of the recipe.
Make-Ahead and StorageCooled crust can be wrapped loosely in plastic wrap and stored at room temperature for up to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Yasmine MaggioIn our current age of social media racket, trends and hacks come and go at a dizzying pace—some of them are worth trying (see here and here), some of them most certainly are not. This week’s example in the definitely-not-worth-it category: Using an immersion blender to grind spices and coffee beans. The technique involves turning an immersion blender upside down, adding a small amount of spices or coffee beans to the bowl-shaped blade-guard, covering the blade-guard with a piece of plastic wrap, then letting it blitz.
We get it, novelty is appealing, and the idea that there's a whole world of untapped potential hidden in your stick blender is almost thrilling. Could this be a totally new way to grind coffee and spices? Common sense says no—at best it's a new way to send yourself to the ER! But in the name of science (and for the fun of popping stupid hack bubbles every chance we get), we decided to give it the good ol' college try.
The TestSerious Eats / Yasmine MaggioTo take my stick blender for a grinding spin, I gathered the requisite appliance along with some whole coffee beans and coriander seeds and set myself up at the island in my kitchen. With my phone camera set up on a tripod right in front of me, I was ready for action.
I poured 1.5 tablespoons of the coffee beans into my plugged-in immersion blender before wrapping the plastic wrap around the top, as so many of the videos going around Instagram and TikTok have shown. I hit the “on” button and coffee beans instantly flew to every corner of my kitchen (and I really mean every corner; I’m sure we’ll be finding them for days to come). While I was skeptical about this “technique” of grinding beans going in, I was shocked by how quickly it all went to hell. In the end, I could only laugh (and I laughed a lot).
Undeterred, I tried this trick a second time with coffee beans and then another two times with whole coriander seeds. The results were uniformly disastrous. So what should you take from all of this? It’s not even a little bit worth using your immersion blender to grind coffee beans or spices, and not just because of mess. Here are all the reasons that make it a dumb idea, in detail.
It's MessyAfter failing with the first round of beans, I blamed myself, figuring that I hadn’t wrapped the plastic wrap tightly enough around the blender (which was frustratingly hard to do with my other hand balancing the immersion blender) and that I must not have held securely enough to the plastic wrap during blending to keep it affixed. I decided I needed a bigger piece of plastic wrap (ah, the waste! But we’ll get to that later) and would need to hold it closer to the top of the stem, near the bowl of the immersion blender, so there was no way for the beans to break free. But when I tried again, the coffee beans were so eager to escape the bowl of the immersion blender once it was turned on that they ended up cutting through the plastic wrap and making another mess, albeit a smaller one this time around (lucky me!). The same thing happened with the coriander, sending coriander dust flying everywhere.
Serious Eats / Yasmine MaggioWhile the testing left me cursing the internet, it proved a valuable point: An immersion blender is not meant to be used in this way. It’s not designed to contain dry foods nestled in its little cup-like blade guard, and there’s no way to ensure you won’t make a disaster of your kitchen in the process.
It’s UnsafeMy specific instructions from Daniel when attempting this method were “DO NOT TOUCH THE BLADE,” (all caps, via Slack, so there was no misunderstanding his direction and concern for my safety). I thought this part was obvious. Clearly, I know not to touch the blade. But when I sent Daniel my videos of the test, he freaked out, still in all-caps: "YOU TOUCHED THE BLADE AND YOU DIDN'T EVEN REALIZE IT!!!!" Turns out, after I added my spices to the blender cup, I quickly used my finger to move a few that had landed on the blades, not aware of the danger of touching the business end of the plugged-in immersion blender even when it is turned off.* One slip of my finger with the “on” button and I would’ve ended up in the ER, which was Daniel’s initial worry when he first heard of this trend; an immersion blender is not designed for this kind of use and it's simply unsafe.
Did I put my life at risk to teach you all a lesson? Yes, I did, and you should be grateful!!
[Editor's note: This exact mistake has sent former SE colleagues Kenji and Niki to the ER. It happens all the time.]*
It’s Not PracticalIf it weren’t so messy and dangerous, this trick might make some tiny amount of sense for spices since it’s not uncommon for a recipe to call for just a small amount of freshly ground spices. But the amount of coffee that you get from this method isn’t even enough to pull a single shot of espresso.
Either way, there’s nothing the immersion blender has to offer here that a spice or coffee grinder or small mortar and pestle can’t give you. In fact, you’re better off with a grinder so you can control the size of the grind—and if you’re grinding your beans fresh, we suspect you’re the type of person who cares about grind size too, so you likely already have a dedicated coffee grinder.
It’s WastefulWe know you probably don’t need a lecture about reducing waste in the kitchen, and we admit we call for using plastic wrap when it’s the best option in a recipe, but why waste a piece of plastic wrap every time you want to grind spices or coffee beans—especially when you’re wasting it on a technique that doesn’t work? Perhaps worse than wasting single use plastic is the food waste, since I didn’t get any usable ground coffee or spices out of this whole exercise.
The Verdict: 5/5 on the Stupid Hack Scale
Overall, the margin for error (and injury) (and mess) is high with this hack, so you’re better off just using a spice or coffee grinder for all of your grinding needs. We’re not sure how this trend made its rounds in the first place. But, hey, whatever, it just gave us a chance to, once again, prove the internet wrong!
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianArmenian food is a study in contrasts: indulgent and celebratory on one hand, and humble and nourishing on the other. Historical Armenia, which includes the current-day Armenian Republic along with much of what is now part of Eastern Turkey, was a mountainous, isolated, and relatively poor region. With limited access to the outside world, Armenians learned to make do with what they had, particularly during their long winters. Armenians were (and many remain) a very religious people (it is a point of pride for many that the Kingdom of Armenia was the first nation to make Christianity its state religion, way back in 303 AD). Not only was meat a precious resource, but it was also forbidden by the church for nearly half of the calendar year, both during the forty days of lent and some 120 other fast days outside of it. As a result, they developed a sophisticated vegetarian cuisine, with beans, lentils, nuts, and dairy products like yogurt and cheese standing in for meat.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianWith that said, Armenians are all-in on feasting during times of plenty or at the end of fasting periods. (Holiday gatherings in my family are studies in excess, with most guests full to the brim long before the main courses appear.) My family, and many other Armenians, love meat, especially lamb: Cooks grill it over charcoal on skewers, braise it in stews and soups, turn it into meatballs, and even serve it raw. And they are especially fond of sweets, whether it’s the fruits abundant within their region—grapes, pomegranate, peaches, and apricots, among others—or desserts and breads containing copious quantities of sugar.
The following is a list of some of the most iconic and beloved dishes of the Armenia diaspora. Some of these recipes, like fassoulia, rice pilaf, and dolma, may be familiar, as versions of them feature in other Southwest Asian cuisines. Below, you’ll find celebratory dishes, as well as simple, everyday staples. With the exception of a few recipes, I grew up eating these dishes regularly. The rest are those I’ve come to love through experimenting and exploring them in my own kitchen—and I hope you will, too.
Choreg (Armenian Easter Bread)Andrew JanjigianPerhaps no Armenian dish is more representative of the Armenian tendency for extravagance than choreg, a sweet bread essential to the Easter table, though it is served year-round as well. Choreg is essentially brioche—an enriched bread made from milk, eggs, butter, and sugar—but far sweeter, and scented with two spices beloved by Armenians: nigella and mahlab. Bakers shape choreg into round or knotted rolls, or into long braids, with three strands meant to represent the Holy Trinity. Choreg is also made in Greece (where it is called tsoureki and is flavored with piney mastic instead of mahlab), Turkey (paskalya çöreği), and Eastern Europe, though its flavors and shapes vary widely.
Lavash (Armenian Flatbread)Andrew JanjigianAfter choreg, the bread Armenians consider essential and most reflective of their cultural heritage is lavash. And unlike choreg, lavash is simple and humble, made with just flour, water, salt, and yeast (and sometimes even without yeast). The dough is stretched, rolled, and slapped into paper-thin sheets many feet long and wide, laid over a pillow-like convex cushion, which is used to transfer the bread to the walls of a tonir, a deep, wood-fired oven, where it cooks in a matter of seconds. Some lavash is made unleavened, though most are leavened using an “old dough" method: Similar to sourdough, a small portion of each batch of dough is reserved to start the next one.
While lavash is eaten fresh, it’s just as often allowed to dry—laid flat on racks or rolled into cigars—until crisp, so it can be preserved for the long winter. The thin bread keeps well once dried, and many eat it like a cracker or rehydrate it by soaking or sprinkling it with water.
Making lavash at home without a tonir requires a different set of techniques, but it’s not hard to do. And like pita, fresh lavash is loads better than most of what’s available in stores, and well worth the time and effort. It has a tender, melt-in-your-mouth texture and a clean, wheaty flavor that gets masked by the fats and fillers commercial lavash producers add to keep the bread soft while it sits on supermarket shelves.
Like pita, lavash is used as a scoop for dips like hummus and muhammara, as a wrapper for meats, cheeses, or pickles as a mezze snack, or to make larger wrap-like sandwiches. It can also be used as a phyllo-like wrapper for turnovers, as in this recipe for lavash triangles.
Lahmajun (Armenian Flatbread With Spiced Lamb)Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianIt’s easy to see why lahmajun gets called “Armenian pizza” by non-Armenians all the time: It’s a crisp, thin flatbread with an aromatic, bright red topping. Unlike tomato and cheese pizza, however, lahmajun is topped with a very thin layer of ground meat (lamb or beef), heavily seasoned with red-pepper and tomato pastes, fresh onion, garlic, red pepper, parsley, and warm spices. The fresh vegetables are ground to a smooth paste and drained of excess moisture, giving the topping a texture closer to a paste than a sauce. It’s less like a pizza than an open-faced ground meat kofta sandwich—in fact, it’s often eaten rolled up with a chopped, crisp salad on the inside, just like a sandwich.
(For a non-traditional but actual Armenian pizza, see my recipe for ”Armenian" Pizza With Spiced Lamb Sausage, Armenian String Cheese, and Sumac.)
Armenian Rice PilafSerious Eats / Andrew JanjigianRice pilaf—long-grain white rice and a fistful of pasta toasted in butter and simmered with chicken stock—is absolutely fundamental to the cuisine of the Armenian diaspora. In Eastern Armenia, the region that is now the Armenian Republic, rice wasn’t commonly eaten until relatively recently. But for those whose ancestors emigrated from Western Armenia (mine among them), rice pilaf is so essential that it is served with most meals, even those where other starches are present. (Just try talking my mother out of adding pilaf to an already-full table—it’s a fool’s errand.) For most in the Armenian diaspora, it’s not a meal unless rice pilaf is included.
Most Americans know Armenian-style rice pilaf thanks to Rice-a-Roni, the boxed product that popularized rice in the U.S. during the 1950s. (In 2008, NPR’s The Kitchen Sisters shared the tale of how an Italian-American pasta company taught Americans to love rice thanks to a chance encounter between a Canadian immigrant and an Armenian Genocide survivor.) While Rice-a-Roni brought the dish into the homes and consciousness of so many non-Armenians, homemade rice pilaf is far superior to anything that comes in a box. Plus: It’s so easy and quick to make that it’s practically a convenience food.
Khorovats (Armenian Shish Kebabs)Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianAfter rice pilaf, grilled meats are perhaps the food most fundamental to Armenian cuisine, and the go-to centerpiece of feasts, provided the weather is warm enough to fire up the grill. (Some Armenians refer to barbecued meats as khorovats, or “grilled,” but in my family we just call them kebabs.)
Armenian kebabs come in two styles, both grilled and usually served side-by-side. The first, shish kebabs, refers to skewered hunks of beef or lamb (the word “shish” is the English rendering of the Turkish word şiş, meaning sword or skewer). The second, loshkebabs, are seasoned ground meat patties cooked without skewers.
Shish kebabs can be made from either lamb or beef. My family always makes them from leg of lamb, trimmed and broken down into one-inch pieces that can be skewered easily. The meat is then marinated with chopped onions, tomato paste, red wine, salt, and pepper, and refrigerated overnight. The flavor of shish kebab is mostly that of fire-charred meat, and its simple marinade seasons the meat throughout while also adding sugars to promote caramelization on the grill.
Losh Kebabs (Armenian Grilled Meat Patties)Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianArmenian grilled, spiced ground meat kebabs go by a few different names, depending on how they are shaped and grilled. Regardless of shape, the meat mixture and seasonings are essentially the same. Lula or lule kebabs (“lule” means “rolled”) are formed into sausage-shaped logs—skewered or freeform—or into long, flat patties by pressing them onto special flat, sword-like skewers.
In New England, where I grew up, Armenians make losh kebabs, round, freeform patties—almost like hamburgers with a bit of zing. Like shish kebab, losh kebabs are seasoned simply, with a similar blend of vegetables folded into the meat mixture. My only additions to this lineup are a touch of allspice, a warm spice commonly used in Armenian meat dishes, and mild red pepper paste, which combines the depth of tomato paste with the fruity flavor of red chiles, often used in ground meat patties too.
Ganach LupiaSerious Eats / Andrew JanjigianGanach lupia or ganach fassoulia—tomato-braised green beans—is so essential to Armenian cuisine that its name simply means “green beans” (“ganach” is Armenian for “green" and “lupia” is the Armenian word for "bean," and “fassoulia” is the Arabic word for “bean”). When an Armenian uses the term “green beans” or even just “beans,” they are referring to this dish, not the raw vegetable. (That Armenians often call the dish by its Arabic name is evidence of its ubiquity across Southwest Asia and North African. Fassoulia is one example of several tomato-braised vegetable dishes in Armenian cooking; another is bamiya, or tomato-braised okra, another key dish.
Unsurprisingly, there are countless variations. There are vegetarian versions, where beans are braised in a mixture of water and tomatoes, and meaty iterations with beef or lamb. The common denominator to all is the use of onions and garlic as base flavors, along with time. The dish is cooked for hours, until the beans (and meat, if present) are meltingly tender and deeply savory. Crisp-tender green beans are nice, but this is notthat. Green beans contain a lot of lignin, the same cellulose-based compound that makes wood hard, so they need time to adequately soften, just like the meat they are partnered with.
My family often makes this dish—which we just call “fassoulia”—with lamb neck or bone-in shoulder. Though it’s definitely a hearty, “meaty” main dish, the green beans are the star. The meat is a source of umami and richness, and accompanies the beans, not the other way around.
Sini MantiAndrew JanjigianManti—small parcels of spiced ground lamb or beef surrounded by thin wheat wrappers that are steamed or boiled—are common throughout Central and West Asian cuisines. However, Armenian manti, sometimes called sini manti, are a little different. While most other manti recipes are boiled, these tiny canoe-shaped, open-topped dumplings are first baked until crisp, then served in a rich tomato-infused lamb broth. Topped with a dollop of garlicky yogurt and a sprinkling of Aleppo pepper and sumac, it is, to me, the ultimate manti. The combination of flavors and textures is exceptional: You have crunchy, lamb-filled dumplings that have been softened gently by the steaming, aromatic broth against the cooling, tart yogurt, with spicy, aromatic, and tart garnishes that brighten each bite.
Up until recently, making and eating manti was a Christmas Eve ritual for my extended Armenian family. For weeks leading up to the holiday, the women in the family gather together to make the dumplings, which they'd then freeze. Hours, and hours, and hours of work go into making enough to feed a few dozen people the meal they look forward to all year long. Nowadays, I make manti myself when I want it, but given all the work involved, it’s a project I usually undertake just once a year. Still, it’s one I try to make time for.
HarissaSerious Eats / Andrew JanjigianHarissa—also known as herisseh, harisa, or keshkeg—is a wheat berry and meat porridge, and one of the world’s great (if lesser-known) cool-weather comfort foods. The meat is usually chicken or lamb, and the wheat is usually korkot, or “shelled” wheat, which are wheat berries that have had their tough hulls removed (like hulled barley), making them about twice as fast to cook. The meat and the wheat berries are combined with water or stock and stirred over low heat for hours until everything disintegrates into a uniform, stodgy porridge. While that might not sound appealing, the process transforms the simple ingredients into a satisfying, nourishing, and deeply savory whole. When topped with its mandatory Aleppo pepper–spiced browned butter, harissa absolutely sings.
Harissa is of special cultural significance to Armenians, many of whom consider it a national dish. While it is eaten year-round, particularly during the winter, it's also served at Easter to mark the end of Lent and at celebratory feasts, as for the birth of a first child. Armenians insist the dish originated in the Armenian Highlands, but versions of it are known throughout Southwest Asia and India as well. In Arabic it is known as harees, and it is a staple of Ramadan meals.
EetchAndrew JanjigianEetch is a classic Armenian dish of bulgur wheat, tomatoes, and chopped green herbs. It’s often compared to tabbouleh—a Middle Eastern salad with parsley, tomatoes, mint, and bulgur wheat—but eetch isn't really a salad, as it's more moist and cohesive. And while it can be eaten with a fork, it's just as often eaten stuffed within a tender lettuce leaf or a shroud of lavash.
Eetch is one of many Armenian “meatless” meat dishes that were created as a result of the many proscriptions to meat eating handed down by the Church. It is usually served as part of an appetizer (mezze) spread, but also makes a thoroughly satisfying and quick-to-assemble one-dish meal. It’s excellent year-round, but it’s particularly delicious in the height of summer, when cool dishes are welcome and fresh herbs, lettuces, and juicy, flavorful tomatoes are easy to come by.
Dolma and SarmaSerious Eats / Qi AiSarma and dolma are really two generic names for tomato-braised rice-and-meat stuffed vegetables; the only real difference is the vegetables in question and how they are used. In Turkish, sarma means “wrapped” and dolma means “stuffed.” Both call for a hearty filling of ground meat and rice, and while sarma involves wrapping the stuffing with a leaf like that of grape or fig, dolma refers to stuffing vegetables like bell peppers, zucchini, and eggplant.
Dolma and sarma are beloved by Armenians, but the same basic dish is eaten throughout the Middle East, the Mediterranean, and Eastern Europe, and most follow a similar template. Once the vegetables are filled or used to wrap the filling, they’re placed into a large pot and braised with a savory tomato broth until the vegetables have softened and the meat and rice become juicy and tender.
Armenian dolma and sarma are essentially meatballs stuffed into or wrapped with vegetables, respectively.They are served in a pool of the braising liquid, with a dollop of cooling yogurt alongside.
Ghapama (Armenian Stuffed Pumpkin)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezGhapama is a baked pumpkin stuffed with a jeweled rice pilaf dotted with onions, nuts, dried fruits, and herbs. It’s a dish so cherished by Armenians that it has its own song. Titled “Hey Jan Ghapama,” the tune is about a pumpkin farmer who somehow manages to feed a crowd of a hundred family and friends with a single pumpkin. Though ghapama can’t actually feed a hundred people, it’s an excellent way to feed many. It’s a traditional celebration dish, particularly around Christmas and the new year, when pumpkins are in season. Cooks carve the pumpkin into wedges and fan it out like a flower, with the rice mounded over the center. The elegant dish looks challenging to make, but it’s actually quite easy to assemble and bake—and is as beautiful as it is delicious.
Boreks (Armenian Spinach and Cheese Turnovers)Andrew JanjigianIf you’re ever served an Armenian mezze spread, you’ll likely see cured olives, string cheese, dried apricots, walnut halves, and cured meats like basturma (cured, dried lean beef) and sujuk (spiced Armenian beef sausage), along with boreks. Boreks are crisp, flaky phyllo hand pies filled with cheese, tender greens, vegetables, meat, or a combination. They're usually made into triangle-shaped hand-pies, although some prepare tray-style boreks by baking one large-format pie in a pan, then cutting it into individual portions. Boreks are dear to Armenians, but are also equally prized throughout the countries that were once a part of the Ottoman Empire, including Albania, Bulgaria, Turkey, Greece, and Serbia.
While boreks can be made with puff pastry or yufka, a more rustic pastry dough that’s halfway between a pasta and phyllo in thickness, most Armenian boreks are made using phyllo dough. The most common fillings for Armenian boreks are either a mixture of cheeses—melty ones like Muenster or Monterey Jack, tangy feta, and something creamy, like cottage or cream cheese—or a combination of cheese and cooked, drained spinach. Herbs and alliums like parsley, dill, and scallion are common additions to either style, and eggs are usually added as a binder.
Tourshi (Armenian Pickled Vegetables)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn Armenia, as well as in numerous other countries in Southwest and Central Asia, ”tourshi”just means “pickles.” You can make tourshi with just about any crisp edible-when-raw vegetable, like carrots, cauliflower, cabbage, or turnips. You can make it like sauerkraut, where the vegetables are preserved in a tart brine provided by lactic acid fermentation, but in my family, we use a tangy, vinegar brine lightly spiced with mustard, coriander, black peppercorns, and allspice berries.
Armenians set tourshi on the dining table no matter the occasion, but it is an essential component of any mezze spread or a side dish alongside entrées. Though the pickles take a few weeks to, well, pickle, it’s otherwise a quick and simple process and a great way to preserve summer’s bounty of crisp vegetables for the winter months.
Gata (Armenian Coffee Cake)Andrew JianjigianGata is a lightly sweetened, buttery Armenian cake, bread, or pastry meant to be served as part of a mezze spread, as a dessert, and/or with coffee or tea. Some gata resemble croissants or rugelach: bakers roll an enriched bread dough into paper-thin, table-wide sheets using an okhlavoo (a wooden dowel dedicated to dough work), smear it with butter, then roll it up like a carpet before cutting the dough into spirals that bake up layered and crisp. Others are sweeter and decidedly more cake-like, and the dough may be yeasted or leavened with baking soda and acidic dairy.
This latter style is usually formed into a flattened disc and filled with butter, flour, sugar, vanilla, and sometimes a chopped nut paste known as khoritz—essentially the Armenian equivalent of streusel—then folded up and gently rolled into an even 9-inch round. These more simple gata are often dressed up with decorative strips of dough or by scoring patterns onto the top before baking. This version is simple and relatively quick to make, and absolutely delicious served at any time of day.
Where to Go From HereThis obviously isn’t an exhaustive list of essential Armenian recipes, but is a starting point if you’re interested in learning more about the cuisine. Other crucial recipes to consider include tanabour, the silky yogurt-and-barley soup that’s eaten both cold and hot, depending upon the season. There’s vospov kofte, which are vegetarian patties made from bulgur and softened red lentils that are often eaten during Lent, when the church forbids the consumption of meat. Another delicious Lenten dumpling is topik, which are potato-and-chickpea patties stuffed with onions, pine nuts, currants, sesame paste, and spices.
For desserts and sweets, there’s tahinovhats, a flaky laminated flatbread layered with sugar, tahini paste, and warm spices that is baked until crisp. And anoush abour, a pudding-porridge, made with wheat berries, dried fruit, and nuts, is traditionally served to celebrate the New Year. Or burma, which are buttery, crisp, crinkled phyllo-wrapped logs, filled with sweetened ground walnuts, soaked in sugar syrup.
No matter which Armenian recipes you choose—humble and filling, or rich and decadent, or both—it’s sure to be a celebration.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikGrapes are practically obligatory on cheese platters and in buffet lines, lunch boxes, fruit salads. Sometimes they provide a juicy, sweet interlude in between savory bites, and other times merely add a pop of color and texture. In late summer through fall, when they're at their peak of flavor, is when grapes assert themselves in everything from salads and entrées to desserts and beverages, but since they're available year-round, you can make the most of them anytime. We've gathered some inspired grape recipes that showcase the best of fruit: sweet and tangy pickled grapes, plump oven-dried grapes, dark chocolate-glazed olive cake studded with roasted red grapes, and grape sorbet, to name a few. You may even try your hand at making DIY grape soda—why not! Whatever the recipe, celebrate this harvest any time you please.
Concord Grape JamSerious EatsFor those turned off by overly sweet, artificial-tasting commercial grape jam—like the kind in single-serve packets—this homemade Concord grape jam might change your mind forever. Extraordinarily aromatic and full of concentrated grape flavor, it's the ideal balance of sweet and tart. Just pinch those deep, dark orbs between two fingers to pop off the skin and cook them with sugar to the gel stage—no pectin required.
Oven-Dried Grapes (a.k.a. Raisins) RecipeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikYou really can't compare these plump, juicy beauties to their shriveled boxed cousins (even after they've been rehydrated). That's because oven-drying grapes at low temperatures produces a light caramelization and intensifies their overall grapiness. Plus, choosing different varieties gives you a spectrum of colors and flavors, opening up a world of applications—from bagels to salads and more!
Celery Soup With Peanut Crumble and Pickled GrapesSerious Eats / Emily DrydenHere, the celery purée, pickled grapes, and spicy, savory peanut topping is Sohla's clever and cheeky play on the quintessential childhood snack: ants on a log. Peeled or unpeeled, these tart gems add brightness that counterbalances the creamy soup and crunchy nuts.
Kale Salad With Oven-Dried Grapes, Toasted Walnuts, and Blue CheeseSerious Eats / Vicky WasikToasted walnuts and blue cheese are a pretty classic combination, particularly when it comes to salad toppings. But oven-dried grapes take this kale salad to the next level, providing pops of juicy sweetness that surprise and delight with every bite.
Easy Grape JamSerious Eats / Emily TeelWhile this is actually more of a grape jelly than a chunky, set grape jam, it is 100 percent delicious, simple to make, and makes a killer PB&J. Cooking the grapes whole and then running everything through a food mill eliminates the tedious task of peeling and seeding the grapes.
Concord Grape CakeSerious EatsIf a cake can be a celebration of fall and Concord grapes—which have a disappointingly short season—this would be it. The yellow cake, spiked with a little white wine, serves as a canvas for the sweet juicy grapes on the inside and glossy intensely flavored jam on the top.
Scotch, Sherry, and Concord CocktailSerious Eats / Autumn GilesSmoky Scotch, nutty dry oloroso sherry, and jammy Concord grape (in the form of a full-flavored syrup) are three assertive components that come together exceptionally well in this salute to fall.
Cardamaro Concord CocktailSerious Eats / Autumn GilesThe warm-spice flavor profile of bourbon and Cardamaro (a cardoon- and blessed thistle-infused sweet amaro) married with the bold, musky taste of freshly juiced Concord grapes makes this drink ideal for cool weather sipping.
Fall French 75Serious Eats / Autumn GilesPaired with a lighter spirit, sparkling wine, and floral St. Germaine elderflower liqueur, the deeply aromatic fresh Concord grape dresses up a classic French 75 to impress any guest—especially with its vibrant color.
DIY Concord Grape SodaSerious Eats / Marcia SimmonsUnless you buy the fancy pants or "gourmet" variety, most commercial grape sodas don't taste much like grape at all—more like sweet fizzy purple stuff. Making it yourself is not only way tastier, but also much cheaper. This DIY version uses fresh Concord grape juice, Champagne yeast for carbonation and dryness, agave syrup, and lemon zest for a pop of brightness.
Grape SorbetSerious Eats / Robyn LeeIf you've never thought about making grape sorbet, you should. It makes for a wonderful palate cleanser, accompaniment with cheese, or a refreshing dessert. For the best results, use the most flavorful, naturally sweet grapes available. Processing the grapes in a few fast pulses will keep the skin and seeds intact and make straining the purée easier.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipI've been honing the art of making chapati—the soft unleavened savory flatbread commonly served alongside meals in several East African nations—since my childhood in Kenya and I’ve been fortunate to pick up many tips and tricks from various family members along the way. The cooking process for chapati is relatively simple in theory: A one-bowl dough is mixed by hand, rested briefly, rolled, shaped, and cooked for just a few minutes on the stovetop. But I know from experience that it can take a bit of practice to nail the right technique to get this unleavened savory flatbread pillowy-soft and filled with flaky layers.
Most Kenyan families cook chapati a couple of times a week for supper. My grandmother makes the best chapati I've ever had, and after years of practice, I've come up with a method that allows me to replicate my grandmother's version every time. I typically make it at least once a month to keep my skills sharp and with the tips and recipe I'm sharing here, you can learn the art of making the best chapati too.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipKenyan Chapati vs. Indian Chapati and Other FlatbreadsDespite sharing a name, Kenyan chapati and Indian chapati are not the same bread. The word chapati does reflect the heavy influence Indian cuisine has had on Kenyan coastal cooking, stemming from the large influx of Indian immigrants into Kenya since the late 19th century. But it would be more accurate to describe Kenyan chapati as a thinner version of an Indian paratha, as they both feature similar wonderful flaky layers. However, compared to Indian paratha, the amount of fat used in Kenyan chapati is reduced to ensure that the layers are soft and tender.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipThe Hallmarks of Excellent Kenyan ChapatiKenyan chapati is known for its delectable flaky layers, achieved by laminating the dough with a fat such as lard, butter, or oil. While all three types of fat are commonly used in chapati, I prefer to use oil in mine for the neutral flavor it adds to the dough. I find this lets the earthy flavor of the whole-wheat flour in the chapati be more prominent. Chapatis are traditionally served with simple stews, sautéed veggies, or stir-fries in homes, but are also popular with street food vendors who use them as wraps for a variety of sandwiches.
This recipe offers one classic take on Kenyan chapati, but every cook in Kenya has their own methods for achieving this soft and flaky bread. Here are my tips for making chapati at home that even my grandmother would love.
Tips for Making the Best Kenyan ChapatiChoose the right flourIn Kenya, a fine 100% whole-wheat flour known as graded Atta mark 1 is the main type of flour that is available in grocery stores, and is therefore the flour used in making chapati. While this type of flour can also be found in Indian grocery stores, it's important to avoid flour labeled as “chapati flour” as a substitute, as this flour is usually a blend of whole-wheat flour and barley or chickpea flour, designed for making Indian chapati.
Since Atta mark 1 flour can be challenging to find in most U.S. markets, I prefer to use a blend of all-purpose flour and whole-wheat flour to replicate the finely milled whole-wheat flour sold in Kenya. Through testing many batches, I landed on a ratio of 3.5 parts all-purpose flour to one part whole-wheat flour. All-purpose flour absorbs water more readily than whole-wheat flour, which means more liquid can be added to the dough while the dough still retains its shape. The more hydrated the dough, the more tender the final chapati will be. When i tried making this dough with 100% whole-wheat flour and the same amount of liquid, the dough was wet and difficult to laminate and shape. While using all-purpose flour achieved the dough texture I wanted, I still wanted the signature earthy wheat flavor in my chapati. I found that combining 100 grams of whole-wheat flour with 350 grams of all-purpose flour produced that signature earthy and nutty whole-wheat flavor I wanted. The final blend of all-purpose flour and whole-wheat flour work together for a chapati dough that is malleable, easy to shape with the complex flavor I wanted.
Add milk for a more tender doughIn my family, which is of Maasai heritage, we incorporate fresh milk in addition to water when making the dough, and that's reflected in this recipe. The additional fat, sugar, and proteins from the milk reduce gluten development in the dough and yield a softer texture than when water alone is used in the dough. After testing, I landed on a ratio of 2:3 parts by volume of water to milk for a dough that produces tender chapati.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipMake sure the dough is properly hydrated and pliableProper hydration during the initial dough formation is essential for successful chapati. Under hydrated dough will result in a tough texture. If the dough still seems shaggy and dry after the milk and water are added, go ahead and knead in one additional tablespoon of water at a time until no dry flour remains.
Choose the right panTraditionally, a jua kali pan, a flat skillet used specifically for chapati is used to cook the bread, allowing cooks to confidently flip the chapati using their hands without the risk of burning their wrists. If you don’t own this type of pan, you can use a large skillet; the even heat retention of a seasoned cast-iron skillet is best. The diameter of the cooking surface should be at least 10 inches to accommodate the chapati. To flip without burning yourself, use a spatula to lift the chapati and use your hand to steady the chapati as you flip it.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipTake it easy on the oilOne valuable tip I learned from my grandmother is to use very little oil in the pan when cooking the chapati. The skillet should be coated in just a thin film of oil when cooking chapati to prevent the dough from sticking to the skillet. Too much oil in the skillet will cause the edges of the chapati to fry and turn crispy, which is not the desired chapati texture. Remember, we want to keep the cooked chapati soft and pliable, not griddled and fried.
Grab some friends or family members to help outKenyan cooking is known for its social nature, making the process enjoyable so time flies by. In that spirit, chapati-making often becomes a communal event, with each person having their own role: one person might roll and shape the chapatis while another takes charge of cooking them on the stove. However, chapati-making is also serious business and each family knows who is skilled enough to tackle the task and who is most helpful washing dishes. But with these tips and this recipe, everyone can become a skilled chapati maker—no need to be stuck to dishes duty.
In a large bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, whole-wheat flour, and salt. Slowly pour in warm water and milk while continuously mixing the dough with your hand until a shaggy dough forms. If needed, add extra water, 1 tablespoon at a time to form dough. The dough should be sticky and still slightly lumpy at this stage. Add 2 tablespoons of oil and continue to knead by hand until fully incorporated.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipTurn the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and continue to knead, flouring the surface as needed to prevent sticking, until the dough is elastic and smooth, 3 to 5 minutes. Pat the dough into a rectangle and lightly brush the surface with oil. Cover with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel and let it rest for 20 minutes.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipUse a rolling pin to roll out the dough into a thin rectangle measuring 12 by 18 inches (it's okay if there are small tears). Lightly brush the entire surface of the dough with a thin layer of oil, then dust the top lightly with flour. This will help keep the layers separate.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipStarting from the long side, roll the dough into a 18-inch long log shape. Cut the dough crosswise into 8 even rounds. Flip dough rounds so the cut side is face up, then press each piece into a small flat circle. Cover with greased plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel and let rest for 30 minutes. On a lightly floured work surface, use a rolling pin to roll out each dough piece into a 9- to 10-inch disk, frequently rotating and flipping to maintain its shape and avoid sticking. Place side by side on a lightly floured work surface and cover with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel while cooking.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipPreheat an empty 10 or 12-inch cast-iron or stainless-steel skillet over medium-high heat until very hot (a drop of water dripped onto the surface should sizzle immediately), 2 to 4 minutes. Using a pastry brush, coat the hot skillet lightly with oil. Place 1 dough round into skillet and cook until the top surface is no longer sticky and a few bubbles form, and the bottom side is spotty brown, about 1 minute. Lightly brush the top with oil, flip, and cook until the second side is spotty brown, 30 to 60 seconds. While cooking, the chapati should bubble; this indicates that steam is passing through the layers, which will result in a flaky texture. This is a great indicator that the chapati dough has been properly laminated.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipRepeat with remaining dough pieces, stacking cooked chapatis on a plate and keeping them covered with a clean kitchen towel until ready to serve. Serve chapatis warm.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipSpecial Equipment10 or 12-inch cast-iron or stainless-steel skillet
NotesYou can substitute the milk with water in the recipe, but the chapati will be slightly less tender and soft.
Make-Ahead and StorageStore the chapatis in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days. To reheat, gently warm them in a dry pan over medium-low heat until they become pliable.
Serious Eats / Brian KopinskiI was born in Delaware, but after 20-some years of living in southern New England, I consider myself a bonafide East Coaster: I’ve dug a hole in the sand for a clam bake, clutched an iced coffee in the middle of winter, and evaded enough potholes to earn a lifetime of free lobster rolls. I love the fall and the warm tones it paints the treeline and, as a Rhode Island resident, I have a visceral reaction when I’m too far from open water.
Like all good New Englanders, I also have a deep connection to L.L. Bean—but not in the way you might think. While most associate the Maine-based retailer with duck boots, slippers, and flannel, I equate it with fluffy pancakes dripping with butter and doused in syrup. You see, back in 1987, L.L. Bean released a cookbook: The L.L. Bean Book of New New England Cookery. At the time, the brand was rapidly expanding, bringing its New England aesthetic—and food and lifestyle—to a wider audience.
The book, written by Judith and Evan Jones (a prolific pair of cookbook authors who worked with Julia Child), pays homage to the cuisine of the land of L.L. Bean. It also contains a recipe for the best pancakes I’ve ever tasted.
On some special Sundays, my mom would tug her well-worn copy from the shelves, flip to page 404, and break out the hand mixer to beat egg whites, the secret to the fluffiest pancakes. I’d go ahead and pour half a bottle of fake maple syrup all over the griddled stack on my plate (sacrilege!).
She’d also frequently turn to recipes for casseroles (young kids will eat anything smothered in cheese) and in the spring, when the fuzzy ferns began to poke their curls from the damp earth, she’d flip to the recipe for Stir-Fry of Beef with Fiddleheads, a real treat.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe cookbook has other delightful nuggets, like Squiggled Eggs (eggs with cheddar and crumbled sage cooked in half a stick of butter, then drizzled with scalded heavy cream, which keeps the mixture soft, luscious, and entirely naughty), Milkweed Bud Fritters, and recipes from immigrants who’ve made the region their home, like Portuguese Sweet Bread and Italian Snail Salad (made from local whelks).
It’s also a cookbook that, while nearly 40 years old, is still relevant today (and thoroughly exciting and novel—I’d never heard of squiggled eggs!) in its recipes and lessons.
“New England has always been eclectic,” the Jones’ wrote in 1987. “The trouble may be that we have been myopic about the region. Assessing the Yankee psyche, we’ve seen only what we wanted to see—as if Currier and Ives lithographs were the reality of village and hill-farm life, as if black wood-burning stoves and biscuits rising, and beans cooking gently overnight, were as definitive today as a century ago.” They go on to say, “The new, New England cooking style is as much a mosaic of ethnic heritage as are the Red Sox fans that fill Fenway Park,” and “We have not collected ‘old country’ recipes, but rather we’ve tried to pack these pages with the ideas that show how Yankee eating habits are changing.”
They’re on the nose. I’ve seen the recipes and foods they wrote about in my day-to-day living in this northeast corner of the country.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhen I cycle on the local bike path, the fuzzy milkweed plants sway in the wind with butterflies resting on their pods. Drive by a local Portuguese-American Catholic church on a Sunday, and you’ll smell hot oil in the air as the parishioners fry up sugar-coated malasada doughnuts. Head to the tiny town of Central Falls and you’ll find shops peddling queso fresco stuffed arepas, courtesy of the local Colombian population.
The food of Rhode Island—and the broader region of New England—is diverse, and The L.L. Bean Book of New New England Cookery invites you to experience the region beyond the tropes (though we do make a mean clam chowder). It’s also helped this wayward New Englander (who had a lovely time at college in Pittsburgh before, inexorably, returning to the Ocean State) appreciate this place she calls home.
FAQsWhat are the six states in New England?New England includes Massachusetts, Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, and Connecticut.
Where can I buy The L.L. Bean Book of New New England Cookery?You can find the cookbook on Amazon, Abe Books, Ebay, Thriftbooks, and other online booksellers.
Why We’re the Experts Grace Kelly is the commerce editor for Serious Eats. * She’s lived in New England (Massachusetts and Rhode Island) for around 20 years. * Her mother cooked many recipes from The L.L. Bean Book of New* New England Cookery when Grace was growing up, and she continues that tradition in her own household today.
Getty ImagesImagine for a moment the joy of opening a brand new bag of potato chips: Your fingers grasp the metalized plastic, pull it apart, there's a soft rush of air, and then you reach in and grab that first crisp bite. And oh how crisp it is! Now imagine that you didn't manage to finish the bag in one sitting (we know, that part is hard to imagine). You rolled down the top, secured it with a clip, and saved it for a rainy day of Bridgerton binging. But on that fateful rainy day, you reopen the bag to find the dreaded humid chip—softened, old, utterly unwanted.
Is that it? Is there nothing to do? Of course not! I've discovered an incredibly easy way to revive chips so they’re good as new. Follow along, then prepare for a lifetime of endless crunch.
What Makes Chips Crispy?Before we dive into how to re-crisp your chips, it helps to understand what makes food crispy in the first place. Tracking moisture content in foods, I admit, is not as exciting as watching Bridgerton. But, trust me, once you look at the numbers, they will make a lot of sense (much like Kate and Anthony—sigh!).
Raw potatoes contain a lot of water—most common potato varieties are 75 to 80% water, in fact. After frying, that number drops to about 2%, which is necessary to achieve that classic snack-food crispiness. Now, it is crucial to understand how low this number is. Even among packaged foods, this is a really low number, lower thanflour (about 14%), uncooked white rice (12%), and white bread (38%).
If a potato chip's moisture level rises to just 4-5%, the perceptible reduction in crunch disappoints us. In other words, a chip that has absorbed moisture from the surrounding humidity can look completely OK and retain its salty, fried, tasty flavors, yet have a texture that’s completely different. The chips are not even remotely soggy at 4%, yet studies show consumers reject these chips for their poor texture. That tiny increase in moisture content becomes detrimental to our enjoyment of chips. Let’s look at why.
Why Is Crunchiness So Important to Optimal Snackability?
The human jaw is filled with proprioceptors, sensors that send the brain additional information about the foods we’re eating. When we’re crunching on a chip, the chewing force, the crunching sounds, and skull vibrations all add up to create a multi-sensory experience making it more enjoyable and satisfying beyond just the taste. This is why chip manufacturers spend so much effort ensuring their chips crack just right, and stay crunchy through their months-long shelf life.
We use the sound generated by food as an indication of its quality, often without even being aware we're doing so. Whether it is the crunchiness of a breakfast cereal, crispiness of a juicy apple, or the crackliness of a fried pork rind, the sound generated matters as it correlates with the qualities we seek in those foods.
There are two categories when it comes to sound generation in the foods—wet foods and dry foods. A fresh cucumber is crispy because of the intense turgidity exerted by the water inside against the cell walls. When you bite into it, you tear into the cell walls causing the turgor pressure to suddenly release. Alternatively, with dry foods like chips and crackers, they are crispy because of air cells surrounded by brittle walls. Biting into these foods break these walls, generating sound waves as they fracture and crumble. The louder the sound generated, the higher the perception of crunchiness.
To prove the impact auditory cues have on our perception of food, experimental psychologist Charles Spence of Oxford University conducted a “sonic chip experiment” in 2014. He had the people in the study wear headphones while eating Pringles, and he altered the crunch sounds they heard while eating. When the crunching sounds were louder, the participants thought the chip was 15% crunchier. And this perception of crunchiness also increased their enjoyment of the chips.
Testing the Best Way to Re-Crisp ChipsSo, we’ve established that chips that have lost their crunch are disappointing. The question is, can we re-crisp them? I put two different everyday appliances—the microwave and air fryer—to the test to find out. (A conventional oven can also be used, but because the air fryer is smaller, circulates air better, and preheats faster, it’s a better choice.)
To conduct this experiment, I left bags of regular potato chips, regular Cheetos, tortilla chips, and baked potato chips open until they had lost their crunch. Usually when my children do this, they hear an earful from me. However this time they were shocked at my willingness (nay, excitement) to leave the packets open. Given the humidity in Austin, where we live, they lost their crunch within a couple of days.
Serious Eats / Swetha SivakumarOption #1: MicrowaveWho would not want re-crisped chips within 30 seconds? No waiting around for pre-heating. Just one dish to clean. The microwave may seem like a good option, however it does not give the best results—the chips were very unevenly crisped and developed some unfortunate hard spots.
To understand why a microwave is not great at re-crisping, it helps to know how the device works: A microwave uses the polar nature of the water molecule to make it oscillate, causing friction and heat. It relies on the water content present in the food to do the heating. As explained earlier, there is very little water in the chips, Cheetos, and other fried and baked snack foods in the first place. The microwave heats unevenly, leaving hot spots that become hard nodules that do not fracture easily when bitten. In 30 seconds, you get chips that are unevenly crispy in texture.
When I decided to extend the microwaving time to one minute, I found that more time in the microwave does not give crispier results—it just makes the snack foods unbearably hard. Cheetos, in particular, became particularly unpalatable when heated for a minute.
Serious Eats / Swetha SivakumarOption #2: Air FryerThe air fryer turned out to be the perfect device for recrisping your chips. A basket air fryer behaves similarly to a vat of oil. They both use convection heating, except that in the case of an air fryer, the medium transferring heat is air as opposed to oil. Thanks to its fan, the air fryer is able to heat the chips uniformly.
Before reheating chips in the air fryer, it’s important to preheat the device to ensure that the moment the chips enter the basket they hit the desired temperature right away. This prevents the chips from spending any more time in the device than necessary. Use the time listed below as a guideline. Exact timings will vary based on the size and make of your air fryer. Feel free to open the air fryer every minute to check the level of crispness. Pop a chip in your mouth. Is there an audible crunch? If the snap and loudness of the crunch is perfect to you, then take it out immediately. With longer time and higher temperatures, the product undergoes browning more than what was intended with the original product.
Serious Eats / Swetha Sivakumar
Cheetos, especially, are more prone to burning. This is because of the extremely fine cheese powder that envelops each treat. During the manufacture of Cheetos, the coating gets sprayed only after the corn puffs are fried.The powdery coating burns faster than a starchy potato or tortilla chip. Reheating them, therefore, has to be done with care.
Recommended Air-Fryer Settings for Perfectly Crisp Chips and Other SnacksI used my 7 QT Gormia basket air fryer for this experiment, but any good air fryer should work similarly. I found the best air fryer temperature to be 300ºF for the regular potato chips, Cheetos, tortilla chips, and baked potato chips.
Serious Eats / Swetha SivakumarWith increased temperature (400ºF and above) and increased time (above two and a half minutes), the food starts getting brown, changing color from the original product. If you want to stay close to the color and texture of the original product, use the lower settings mentioned above. That's 300ºF for 1.5 minutes of thin chips, and increasing from there. For thick-cut chips and other snacks, I recommend starting at 1.5 minutes and increasing the time as needed.
More Adventures in Air-Fryer Re-Crisping
Once I figured out how easy it was to re-crisp chips, there was no stopping me. I dug out the chip bags left in the back of the pantry with all the broken pieces remaining. Into the air fryer they went and voila, they became crunchy and tasty again. The murukku packet from the Indian stores with all the broken bits at the bottom that no one wants to eat? Same results. They became crunchy and were a perfect accompaniment to my rice meal. This is such an easy way to avoid wasting perfectly good food. Plus, if you are already in love with your air fryer (like me), this will give you a new level of appreciation for this device.
Now you can only do this with chips that have lost their crunch, not rancid chips. If your chips get oxidized due to exposure to oxygen, then re-crisping them will not help. The chips will get crunchy, but still smell off. Do the sniff test at the beginning to determine whether these are worth recrisping. But, if your chips are fresh and just happened to pick up some humidity from the atmosphere, don’t throw them away. Re-crisp them!
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen I was a kid, there was always a bag of navel oranges in our fridge. My parents never stored their oranges any other way, and because our family went through the fruit so quickly, the citrus never went bad. It never molded, it never shriveled, and it never, ever went uneaten. Simply put, my family had no reason to think of the “best way” to store them. But as a citrus lover and an editor at a food publication known for its limitless curiosity, I wanted to know: What is the best way to keep oranges so they remain delicious for as long as possible?
To find out, I ran a series of tests and talked to a plant physiologist and citrus expert at the U.S. Department of Agriculture for further insight. Despite a range of common storage methods in an orange's supply chain—cold storage in warehouses and transport, room temp in many grocery stores—there’s one home storage method that’s far better than others at maintaining the best flavor and texture of oranges.
An Orange’s Journey From Grove to Grocery StoreOrange growers, wholesalers, and retailers all strive to preserve the fruit as long as possible while maintaining quality. Unlike many fruits that continue ripening after they’re harvested, oranges are picked at peak maturity and don’t improve once they’re off the tree. Once picked, there are two major threats to the fruit's longevity: microbes that can hasten spoilage, and the natural ongoing respiration of the fruit that, while essential to its growth and maturation, eventually contributes to a decline in flavor and texture.
To address this, the oranges are first sent to processing plants, where they're washed in a disinfectant—usually a mixture of chlorine and water, followed by a fungicide—to rid the fruit of any surface microbes that could cause premature rot.
As oranges ripen, they naturally produce a wax that fills tiny pores on the skin, which slows the rate of respiration and moisture loss through those pores. During the disinfecting step, though, that natural wax is washed away. So the oranges are then coated in a new layer of wax to reseal the skin and prolong shelf life.
After the oranges are washed and waxed, fruit processors keep the citrus in cold storage and ship them in refrigerated containers, because cold is another method of slowing respiration and increasing the orange's time as a delicious, juicy fruit. “The key to the whole thing is that the fruit is kept cold as long as possible,” Dr. David Obenland, a plant physiologist at the USDA, tells me. He adds that the ideal temperature for storing oranges is about 41ºF (5ºC), though this may vary depending on the citrus variety.
If it’s so crucial to refrigerate oranges, though, why do grocery stores keep them at room temperature while maintaining such seemingly pristine condition? “The citrus in the grocery store generally looks good because people are continually buying it and it is being replenished with new fruit and fruit that go bad are removed,” Dr. Obenland says. “I have never been in the back room of a grocery store, but I am assuming that they have coolers and freezers there to store product until it is needed.”
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe TestingBased on all my research, it’s pretty clear that keeping citrus cold is preferable. To confirm this on a practical level, I ran a series of tests on orange storage in my own home. I tested refrigerating the oranges against holding them at room temperature washing versus not washing them; and whether keeping them loosely sealed in a plastic bag versus not bagged made a difference.
To assess these storage methods, I measured moisture loss by recording the mass of each orange daily over the course of the tests, and also conducted visual inspections, making note of how they looked, felt, and smelled. After two weeks, I cut into the oranges and tasted each to determine how storage related to their flavor and juiciness.
Room Temperature vs. FridgeTo put it simply: room temperature citrus did not fare well. On average, the oranges held at room temperature lost 6% of their total weight compared to the 3% of their refrigerated counterparts. While the refrigerated oranges felt pretty firm throughout the tests, the room temperature oranges grew noticeably softer. As the days went on, the texture of the room-temp peels increasingly reminded me of the giant foam fingers you see at sports games. In the course of my testing, I also lost two room-temperature oranges to rot about halfway through the two week test; none of the refrigerated oranges succumbed in the same way.
With the exception of the moldy oranges—which I tossed at the first sign of decay—the rest of the room temperature oranges looked passable, if a bit tired, at the end of the test. Someone who didn’t know they’d been sitting at room temperature for two weeks would probably assume they’re fine to eat. But upon cutting into them, I saw that most of the flesh was dried and shriveled; these oranges were not juicy and they did not taste good, with a flavor that was old and musty.
The refrigerated oranges, which I kept on a 9- by 13- inch baking sheet on the middle shelf of my fridge, held up a lot better. Their peels felt firm and they looked almost as good as they did on the first day. When tasted after two weeks, they were still sweet and juicy, but had lost some of their acidic kick. This aligns with my research and what I learned from talking with Dr. Obenland: For optimal flavor and longevity, store your oranges in the refrigerator.
Washing vs. No WashingJust as washing strawberries helps them stay mold-free for longer, I wanted to see if washing oranges would make a difference—especially since two of the room temperature oranges molded halfway through the test. I rinsed my oranges in tap water and dried them with a towel, and like my previous test, kept half of them at room temperature and half of them in the fridge.
Between the washed and unwashed oranges, the flavor tracked with my temperature tests irrespective of washing status: It was better preserved in the fridge and did not hold up well at room temperature. Washing also didn't seem to have a significant impact on moisture loss, but it did seem to help prevent the oranges at room temperature from decaying. All the oranges made it through the whole test without any mold—but this ultimately doesn’t matter given that room temperature storage still leads to worse flavor and texture over time.
Practically speaking, as long as your oranges are in the fridge, there’s really not much benefit to washing them.
Bagged vs. No BagThe next test I wanted to run was bagging the citrus. I tested by placing oranges in a regular plastic produce bag from the grocery store. To ensure there’d still be some air flow, I loosely tied the bag (a bag that’s sealed shut may trap unwanted moisture and gas, leading to rot). The bagged fruit, which lost just an average 1% of its total weight, showed the least amount of moisture loss, while the unbagged fruit lost an average of 4% of its total weight. On a practical, qualitative level, I honestly could not tell the difference when tasting the refrigerated fruit side by side. Refrigerating fruit in a bag may help slightly, but the difference was pretty negligible—and considering how wasteful single-use plastic is, I hesitate to recommend storing your fruit in a plastic bag.
The main takeaway from all my research and testing? Just refrigerate your oranges and, of course, eat them sooner than later.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayIt’s hard to imagine the days before we had the convenience of electronic kitchen appliances. Mixers, food processors, and blenders all replaced tedious work done by hand. (Imagine making massive quantities of whipped cream manually! My wrist hurts just thinking about it.) But the food mill is one manual contraption that has stood the test of time.
This simple handheld device is used to make smooth purees and works by gently pressing ingredients through a sieve, resulting in something silky, but still textured. We’ve never formally reviewed them, so we tested nine mills, pureeing 20 pounds of potatoes and making batch after batch of fresh tomato sauce to find the best ones.
The Winners, at a GlanceThis mill bested all others during our testing; it was easy to use, affordable, and produced great results. It pureed potatoes in a fraction of the time of other mills and the handle provided good leverage.
What this mill lacked in bells and whistles, it made up for in simplicity and ease, all while churning out good results. The sieve is fixed to the mill’s bowl, so you don’t have to fuss with tricky parts and rigid springs.
If you’re willing to spend more cash, this fancy mill has a few features that make it really easy to use. We liked the raised holes on the sieve which were more efficient at separating the tomato's flesh from the skin, pulp, and seeds. The silicone-coated handle was also one of the most comfortable to hold and use.
The TestsSerious Eats / Taylor Murray Creamy Mashed Potatoes Test: We made a batch of pommes puree, the French cousin of mashed potatoes, in each mill. We timed how long it took and noted ease of use, then tasted the final product to see if it was lumpy or if the processing created a gummy texture. * Tomato Passata Test (Winners-Only):* We used our favorite mills to make batches of tomato passata. This cooked tomato puree is a staple of Italian cooking and is free from skins and seeds. We evaluated how well the mill processed the mixture, separating the flesh from the rest, and how quickly it did so.
What We LearnedFluted Sides Helped Funnel IngredientsSerious Eats / Taylor MurraySome of the mills we tested had straight sides, while others were fluted, like the OXO. Not only do fluted sides allow you to start with more food from the beginning (eliminating needing to stop and refill), but the slope also encourages food to move toward the perforated base. Straight-sided mills require you to use a spatula to encourage things downward.
Evenly Spaced, Raised Holes Made for Quicker WorkSerious Eats / Taylor MurrayHole size directly impacts the texture of the final product, with smaller holes producing finer purees and larger ones allowing for a coarser texture. Additionally, the spacing between holes plays a crucial role in the efficiency of the milling process; closer spacing leads to a more uniform puree, while wider spacing can process larger quantities of food faster. Regardless of the size or shape of the holes, we found that food mills with raised holes, like on the Williams Sonoma, processed food much faster, likely because the raised design helps to prevent clogging and ensures a smoother, more consistent flow through the sieve.
The Best Food Mills Were Easy to AssembleSerious Eats / Taylor MurrayIf you’ve never used a food mill, you might not be aware of some of the finer points of setup. If you have, then you know that a model that’s easy to put together is crucial. For mills with changeable sieve plates, you first have to fit the sieve into the mill, which can be quite a task. Then, you have to take the crank lever and fit the post into the hole in the center of the sieve plate. Up the crank arm lies a spring topped by a crossbar. The crossbar has to be pushed down against the spring, swiveled slightly, and fit under two hooks that hold the crossbar in place. Some food mills, like the OXO, have a lock mechanism to ensure correct placement. Overcoming a stiff spring can make set up a challenge, but too little and the blade won’t push food into the mill well.
Handles and Stability Were Important, TooSerious Eats / Taylor MurrayIn addition to easy assembly, other things make a huge difference when it comes to the usability of a food mill, like its handles. Not only should they be comfortable to grab, but they should offer some leverage. Stay away from wire handles, which give little in the way of comfort.
Stability is another factor. Our winner, from OXO, has flat feet that rest on top of a bowl or pot and give you a greater range of options during use. Some mills use hooks to hang on the side of a pot, but, in general, this can be limiting. For example, if your food mill has hooks, an 8-inch bowl, and a 5-inch handle, you’re going to need to find a pot that’s pretty much exactly nine inches across to use with it.
Some of the mills we tested had hooks that were made of metal and others had ones coated with silicone or plastic. If we were going to go with hooks, we preferred the silicone-coated ones, which were better at gripping and slid around less.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Food MillSerious Eats / Taylor Murray / Grace KellyConsider the size and capacity of the food mill. You'll want one that's big enough to handle the amount of food you plan to process but not so large that it's difficult to store. Next, look at the materials: durable stainless steel is a great choice because it's easy to clean and won't rust. Some food mills come with interchangeable discs for different textures, from fine to coarse, which is handy for various recipes. That said, you want a mill that can quickly and easily puree; we liked mills with small raised holes, which produced the smoothest results. A comfortable handle and a stable base are a must, or else milling potatoes will feel like you're wrangling a greased watermelon, with the mill slipping and sliding around. Ease of cleaning is also important; models that are dishwasher-safe or easy to disassemble will save you time and effort.
The Top Food MillsWhat we liked: This has been a Serious Eats staff favorite for a while, and during our testing, we found out why. Unlike all the other food mills we tested, the OXO has silicone-covered feet that splay out flat and level, which makes it versatile in terms of what bowls or pots you can set it over. You can even set it on a flat surface and use it that way, while many of the others can’t rest flat on their bottom. The collapsible feet make it easy to store, as well.
The OXO created silky potato puree without gumminess and a smooth tomato passata that was neither too chunky nor too watery. It comes with your choice of three sieve discs so you can select the right one for the ingredient you want to process.
What we didn’t like: It did take a smidge longer to process the potatoes in this mill. However, when it came to things like the tomato passata, the texture of the final product was far superior (read: luscious and smooth).
Key Specs Material: Stainless steel * Stated capacity: 2.3 quarts * Discs included: 3 * Weight: 2 lbs, 5 ounces * Handle length: 5 inches * Opening diameter: 8 inches * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayWhat we liked: It’s hard not to like a food mill that comes at such a great price, but it has more going for it than saving you a few bucks. Unlike many others, this mill has a fixed sieve, meaning it only has one option for the size and shape of the holes at the bottom. Luckily, that one size is all you need for the majority of recipes. Another bonus of the fixed sieve is that you don’t have to fuss and fiddle with a stiff spring or wonky crossbar.
Like the Williams Sonoma, the Mirro also has a small metal stick that turns around the bottom of the sieve to scrape off processed food and prevent clogs, which was a handy feature that helped food pass through faster.
What we didn't like: The other side of the coin with a fixed sieve is that you have no options when it comes to adjusting the amount of puree or seeds you want to pass through; what comes standard is just what you get. The straight sides meant we had to help push the food down periodically as well.
Key Specs Material: Stainless steel * Stated capacity: 2 or 3.5 quarts * Discs included: 1, fixed * Weight: 1 lb, 5 ounces * Handle length: 6 inches * Opening diameter: 7 1/4 inches * Care instructions:* Hand-wash
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayWhat we liked: The silicone-coated handles were very comfortable to hold (even though they were shorter than others), which offered more leverage when working the mill. Plus, the knob that spins the crank is oval instead of round, which was easier to get a firm grip on. The mill pureed food quickly and easily, and it was a breeze to set up.
It comes with a special clip that attaches to the base and rotates with the blade to scoop off processed food into your bowl of pot, preventing clogs and making things run smoothly. Some of the other higher-end food mills performed similarly well, but this was the most affordable of that group.
What we didn't like: This mill is definitely on the pricier side.
Key Specs Material: Stainless steel, silicone-coated handles * Stated capacity: NA * Discs included: 3 * Weight: 2 lbs, 10 ounces * Handle length: 4 1/2 inches * Opening diameter: 8 1/4 inches * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayThe Competition* Winco 2 Qt. Stainless Steel #2 Food Mill: This bowl and crossbar on the crank lever had sharp edges, and the blade didn’t turn as smoothly as others. * Choice Prep Stainless Steel Rotary Food Mill: This model took much longer to puree potatoes than the others; it also had sharp edges that made it scary to clean. * Küchenprofi Professional Stainless Steel Food Mill: Although this mill comes with four different sieves (which could be a huge bonus for some) the handle was a bit uncomfortable to hold and the design was awkward. * Rösle Stainless Steel Food Mill with Handle: The design is undoubtedly good quality, but the price is sky-high and it didn’t equate to better performance. * Cuisinart Food Mill: The plastic parts don’t offer much in terms of comfort and a few of the sieve attachments were rusted out of the box. * Hungry Artisan Food Mill: This mill had almost the same design as the Cuisinart and many of the same issues. Though the stainless steel parts were superior, the overall design was just not that efficient.
FAQsWhat’s a food mill good for?A food mill is a great tool for any recipe or cooking project where you need to puree and strain simultaneously. With a food mill, you can effortlessly make silky-smooth tomato sauce free of seeds and skins, perfect for pasta dishes or pizza. It's also fantastic for creating lump-free mashed potatoes, velvety applesauce, and smooth purees, such as pumpkin or squash. A food mill can also assist in making homemade jams, jellies, and fruit preserves by removing unwanted seeds and fibers, ensuring a smooth consistency. Its ability to separate solids from liquids without incorporating air makes it better suited than blenders or food processors for certain tasks.
What’s the best way to clean a food mill?Cleaning your food mill right away will make the process easier. Most food mills are dishwasher-safe, but check the manufacturer's instructions first. If washing by hand, disassemble the mill and wash each part with warm, soapy water. Use a brush to remove any food particles stuck in the sieve holes. Dry the parts thoroughly before reassembling them to prevent rust, especially if the mill is made of metal.
How is a food mill different from a ricer?A food mill and a ricer both have metal sieves with holes—but they differ in how they process foods. A ricer uses a metal tamper to crush food through the holes in one swift motion, while a food mill has a handle and spinning metal piece that slowly pushes food through the sieve. Food mills are often used for purees and silky smooth mashed potatoes, while ricers are mainly used for crushing starchy foods, yielding a fluffier texture.
How do you use a food mill for tomatoes? People often use food mills to make passata, a tomato puree that’s thin and fresh. In our recipe for passata, we have you quickly cook chopped fresh tomatoes to get rid of some water, then place them in the food mill and start turning. The food mill pushes the tomatoes through the metal sieve, capturing seeds and tomato skin.
Why We’re the Experts* Taylor Murray has been working in food and food media for over 10 years, including in award-winning restaurants. * She has written extensively for Serious Eats, including pieces on paella pans, carving boards, and more. * She tested 10 stainless steel food mills by using them to puree 20 pounds of potatoes and make batches of passata. Throughout testing, she evaluated each model's performance, usability, and design.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI don’t mean to brag, but I do drink water sometimes. I mostly drink it from a tap in a glass or a ridiculous pink tumbler, but I do drink it sometimes! Other times—and again, I am not trying to make anyone jealous—I forget my absurd drinking vessel and I have to buy bottled water.
That’s where my bragging rights end. I am a fairly hydrated person whose brain is rotted by the internet and the times and the motherhood of it all, so when I am standing in front of a wall of bottled waters, all of which are packaged like the way typing in all lowercase letters feels, all judgment and best practices go out the window and I’m a sucker for whatever…looks the most hydrating?? Oy.
This is to tell you that bottled waters were the perfect taste test for the Serious Eats team to tackle. There are too many options, they all promise far too much, and we are smart, mean, and skeptical, especially when you tell us we’ve got a weird task ahead. So the SE team pulled together eightbrands ofbottled water that you're likely to find in your local supermarket and methodically, empirically, scientifically! tasted its way through them all in a quest to identify the very best. And! we! loved! every! minute! of! doing! it! A lot of bathroom breaks, though.
The Contenders* Fiji * Dasani * Voss * Icelandic * Poland Spring * Aquafina * Smartwater * Evian
The CriteriaListen—no one here is a water somm. We were just a group of silly, goofy food nerds fresh off a creamy peanut butter taste test looking to create more content you’d enjoy reading and find useful. We still are, to be clear. With that in mind, here’s what we came up with: Good bottled water should not taste like…much. It’s allowed a tinge of minerality, a hit of glacial energy, and literally nothing else. If you smell something before you drink it—that’s bad bottled water. If you taste something amidst drinking it, that’s mid bottled water. And if you taste something after it? Oh my god, that’s disgusting bottled water.
You are allowed to feel things while drinking bottled water, and those feelings correlate directly to the water’s quality (again, in this group of non-water-somms opinions). Did you gulp and find yourself in Fiji? Great! (We gulped Fiji and found ourselves in a nearly retired dentists’ waiting room, but more on that in a sec.) Did you chug and think “I don’t know where I am, but I am mouth-down in a street puddle?” Not as great! If it's helpful, the whole group ranked that famous old NYC tap water as their second favorite in the whole bunch for its clean taste, lack of smell, and general easy-to-chug vibes. (I obviously could not include it in this ranking of bottled waters, though.)
We (1) let all samples come to room temperature before tasting them, (2) poured each one into identical paper cups, and (3) required our testers to smell everything before tasting. We then asked them to rank just on smell and taste, but to also consider minerality, as each person’s tolerance for and opinion on minerality would sway their rankings. This sub-scoring “minerality scale” was not to assess good versus bad, but to assess the degree to which each taster did or did not detect a mineral flavor in the water. Daniel prefaced the test by explaining: “You could, in theory, rate a water as having a four in minerality, meaning a discernible mineral flavor, but a one in taste, which might indicate that you, personally, don't like waters with a mineral flavor.” I then factored in each person’s comments on minerality in the smell and taste categories to enforce the below rankings.
TL;DR: Our findings from this taste test are that…You should feel like you’re doing something good for yourself when you drink water (lol lol lol). If the opposite occurs, pick another bottle? See a physician? I don’t know, I have to prep for a chicken broth taste test.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe RankingsIcelandic, 3/5I came here prepared to write a whole helpful and clever thing about how Icelandic water was the loveliest, most neutral offering of the bunch and then I revisited the tasting notes. Daniel Gritzer wrote in his—and I quote—“I have no complaints.” I, in turn, have nothing left to give you. Simply huge, if true.
Dasani, 2.38/5Given that the collective internet has made hating Dasani an entire personality, I was so pleased to see it come in second place. Each one of our testers remarked positively on its minerality (“slight,” “pleasant,” etc.), which you will not see again on this list. Genevieve and Yasmine both wrote they’d voluntarily reach for a bottle of this, and that they’d be happy to have purchased it. I recused myself from this tasting as its keeper, but as a person who used to spend too much time in Florida, I’d know the inoffensive, not-cold-enough flatness of a Dasani anywhere and second this ranking.
Smartwater, 2.25/5Again, nothing bad here, which is a huge win. Megan noted the lack of aftertaste (again, a positive!). Megan had lots of funny things to say about all subsequent waters’ aftertastes. The only thing that knocked Smartwater into third was Genevieve’s note about a very distinct distillation flavor. “It’s not harsh,” she wrote, “but it tastes really distilled.”
Poland Spring, 2.13/5Again again, notes from the group on inoffensiveness, thirst quench-iness, and lovely-and-fine neutrality. Yasmine tanked this one, writing “It just tastes like water that’s been sitting out for a while.” In its defense…it had been. But I certainly can’t speak to what all happened to that springy stuff before they bottled it. Anyway, Poland Spring is solid and probably best enjoyed cold.
Aquafina, 2.13/5There comes a point in every Serious Eats taste test where the tide starts to turn. Allow me to introduce you to that point! ‘Twas here we transitioned from everything going great to mentions of chlorine, “other smells,” and aftertastes. It’s worth noting Daniel wrote, though: “I like this one just fine.” This from a man who joked the other day on Slack that we should start a YouTube show called Old Man Gritz Hates Everything. I worry! He may be chronically dehydrated except for the day we did this test??
Evian, 2.13/5To be fair, everyone went into this talking about how much they dislike Evian. They then proceeded to blind-trash Evian. “It reminds me of Florida water minus the obvious punch of sulfur,” wrote Daniel. “Slightly milky, wet doggy,” wrote Megan. “It tastes very strongly of…not natural,” wrote Genevieve.
Fiji, 1.88/5Right off the bat, Genevieve clocked this as “Evian-esque,” which you’ll know is a sick burn if you have been reading since one paragraph ago. I cannot speak to how this water tasted in real time, but I can tell you it was not fun to instruct people to drink cardboard!
Voss, 1.85/5Not just a distinct papery taste here, but an aggressive smell as well—a remarkable feat for a taste test centered on smelling and tasting as little as possible per sip. Things were said both in jest and in seriousness that were not fit to print, which feels both completely dramatic for such an undertaking and also so perfectly my coworkers!
Our Tasting MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted completely blind and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample 1 first, while taster B will taste sample 6 first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria that vary from sample to sample. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation of actual results possible.
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeOkay, you clicked on this story, so we will forego the usual discussion of how this wonderful herb is polarizing. You're here already, so you know the truth: Cilantro is delicious, and so many of our favorite dishes rely on its unique flavor. In most cases, cilantro is added as a last-minute accent. But in this collection, we highlight cilantro recipes that use the herb in ways (and quantities) that go beyond mere garnish.
Also, a heads-up for cilantro lovers: there are other cilantro-adjacent herbs you should know (if you don't already, of course). Culantro, also known as recao or sawtooth herb, stores better than cilantro and is less prone to bolting in the garden. Its flavor and potency are pretty similar to cilantro. Rau ram, or Vietnamese coriander, is also well-behaved in the garden and its flavor is stronger and more peppery than that of cilantro. In addition to using it as a simple garnishing herb for soups like bún bò Huê, try making our recipe for nem lụi Huế. Finally, there is papalo, a positively dank, powerfully flavored herb used in Pueblan cuisine. Should a cilantro hater encounter papalo, the experience would probably scar them for life. We enjoy it as a garnish for frijoles charros, but it's most famous for giving cemitas sandwiches their characteristic flavor.
West Lake SoupSerious Eats / Qi AiThis comforting soup is loaded with a last-minute handful of chopped cilantro, which gives a lovely flavor to the savory, lightly thickened broth, loaded with wispy threads of egg whites and tender bits of ground pork (or beef).
Lao Hu Cai (Tiger Salad), à la Xi'an Famous FoodsSerious Eats / Vicky WasikSavory, refreshing, and tart, this dish is inspired by the lao hu cai, or "tiger vegetable salad," served at Xi'an Famous Foods. Cilantro graduates from seasoning to green status in this salad, where it's paired with celery, scallions, cilantro, a simple rice vinegar-soy dressing, and a sprinkle of dried baby shrimp.
Egyptian Bissara (Split Fava Bean Dip)Serious Eats / Greg DupreeHere, fava beans are blended with two packed cups of cilantro and a bit of parsley, mint, and dill for a creamy, vibrant green dip. Crispy fried shallots are added to the top—and some of the shallot-infused oil also flavors the dip.
Zhug (Yemenite Hot Sauce With Cilantro and Parsley)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltZhug is a fresh, bright Middle Eastern hot sauce akin to chimichurri, chermoula, and salsa verde. Our zhug calls for both cilantro as well as parsley, but cilantro really carries the day here. The bright camphor notes from the green cardamom are delightful and accentuate the cilantro flavor. Our favorite application for zhug? Probably slathered on sabich sandwiches, or with falafel, along with tahini sauce. A dollop swirled into a bowl of hummus is also quite lovely.
Thai-Style Shrimp Cakes With Sweet Chili Dipping SauceSerious Eats / Emily and Matt CliftonThese spicy cakes are a luminous green, thanks to the jalapeño, scallions, lime zest, and a large handful of cilantro that gets pulsed together with the shrimp in a food processor. We suggest serving them as an app, either on their own or sandwiched in slider buns with pickles, mayo, and sweet chile sauce.
Ají Amarillo (Green Peruvian Dipping Sauce)Serious Eats / Melissa HomInspired by the green sauce that accompanies pollo a la brasa at Pio Pio, this spicy, creamy, cilantro-heavy elixir is the perfect condiment for Peruvian grilled chicken (pictured above), salchipapa, roasted potatoes, and much more.
Grilled Lemongrass- and Coriander-Marinated Vegan Tofu Banh MiSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltBanh mi is a sandwich genre for cilantro lovers, and this recipe gets three doses of our favorite herb. Slabs of tofu get a double coat of cilantro-heavy marinade before getting sandwiched with thinly sliced jalapeño, cucumber, carrot-daikon pickles, ginger-scallion oil, and more cilantro.
Cilantro Fritters (Kothimbir Wadi)Serious Eats / Prasanna SankheThese uniquely delicious morsels are made by adding lots of cilantro to a spiced chickpea flour batter. The batter is then microwaved or steamed in a pan. This tender, aromatic cake is then cut into pieces and briefly pan-fried until crisp.
Açorda à Alentejana (Portuguese Garlic and Cilantro Bread Soup)Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerThis deeply satisfying soup (it's really more like a porridge) is rich with cilantro, along with garlic, olive oil, chorizo, and a softly poached egg.
Mole VerdeSerious Eats / Joshua BouselThis bright, cilantro-forward mole has a wonderfully complex flavor thanks to epazote, romaine lettuce, and toasted pumpkin seeds.
Serious Eats / Tyler RoelandOur most beloved brands hold top spots in our hearts for good reason. Through endless hours of frying, sautéing, braising, grilling, baking, and more, we’ve found that our favorites are high-performing and long-lasting, meaning they’ll produce a perfectly seared steak or beautifully crusted loaf of bread for decades to come. These are heirloom pieces that sometimes come with heirloom prices, but thankfully, Williams Sonoma’s Spring Cookware Event has marked down quite a few of our top picks, up to 47% off. Our editors have been eyeing the catalog and named a few standout deals that they’d snag for themselves or gift to another.
Over the years, these pieces have outperformed the competition time and time again, and they look good doing it, too. If you’ve been stashing away coffee money to invest in your own enameled Dutch oven, stainless steel pan, or cast iron skillet, you’re in luck. These items are currently on steep sale over at Williams Sonoma’s biggest sale of the season.
The Best Cookware Deals from Williams Sonoma’s Spring Sale The Best Enameled Cast Iron Dutch Oven: Le Creuset 6 3/4-Quart Enameled Round Wide Dutch Oven * The Best Stainless Steel Braiser: Williams Sonoma Thermo-Clad Stainless Steel Braiser * The Best Stainless Steel Saucepan: All-Clad 3-Quart Stainless Steel Saucepan * The Best Cast Iron Grill Pan: Staub Enameled Cast Iron Grill Pan * The Best Enameled Cast Iron Braiser: Staub 3.5-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Everything Braiser * The Best Enameled Cast Iron Skillet: Le Creuset 10-Inch Enameled Cast Iron Deep Skillet * The Best Stainless Steel Fry Pan: All-Clad 10-Inch D3 Stainless Steel Covered Fry Pan * The Best Stovetop Kettle:* Le Creuset Classic Whistling Kettle
Le Creuset 6 3/4-Quart Enameled Round Wide Dutch OvenWilliams Sonoma“I am DEEPLY a sucker for a Le Creuset Dutch oven on sale,” says Executive Editorial Director Tess Koman, who singled out the Le Creuset Wide Dutch Oven. While the traditional Le Creuset 5.5-Quart Round Dutch Oven is our all-time tried-and-true love, the Le Creuset Wide Dutch Oven offers all the same capabilities as the round model, plus a wider cooking surface for browning foods more thoroughly before slow simmering or braising. The enamel’s light interior is also helpful to keep track of how well-done your food is. Its versatility also means you can cook on the stove-top or put it in the oven, as it’s oven-safe up to 500°F. Right now, it’s an incredible 35% off at Williams Sonoma.
Williams Sonoma Thermo-Clad Stainless Steel BraiserWilliams SonomaWe do love a multitasking piece of cookware here at Serious Eats. That’s why the Williams Sonoma Thermo-Clad Stainless Steel Braiser, currently 20% off, caught the eye of our Culinary Editor Genevieve Yam (“I love dual-purpose cookware!)” who highlighted that this braiser also doubles as a steamer with the included insert. As a braiser, it can easily go from stovetop to oven, so you can whip together weeknight baked pasta or a comforting veggie casserole. When it comes to steaming, you can put on the insert for steamed buns or pumpkin custard. Thanks to its insulated walls, it can keep your food warm at 150°F for up to 90 minutes.
All-Clad 3-Quart Stainless Steel SaucepanWilliams SonomaAs someone who’s still somehow holding on to my hand-me-down saucepans, I’m eager to take Editorial Director Daniel Gritzer’s advice: “Always nice to grab a saucepan if you need one!” Saucepans are an unsung hero in the kitchen. From making rice to browning butter, the All-Clad 3-Quart Stainless Steel Saucepan was one of our best picks when we tested over 10 saucepans. It was heat-responsive and easy to clean, showing high performance with even the most delicate test: whipping up a batch of pastry cream. Good news, this small-but-mighty upgrade to your kitchen is 40% off right now.
Staub Enameled Cast Iron Grill PanWilliams SonomaWhile we’ve tested upwards of 42 grills across charcoal, gas, and pellet models (not to mention the portable ones), there’s always a place for the trusty grill pan in our hearts. Commerce Editor Rochelle Bilow, who lives in an apartment with no outdoor space for grilling, loves the small footprint of a grill pan that can sear and sizzle evenly without needing the firepower of a grill. In our review of grill pans, the Staub Enameled Cast Iron Grill Pan produced beautiful grill marks on all of our tests. “No, a steak cooked on a grill pan won't have that campfire-y flavor, but it will have gorgeous grill marks and an enviable crust—without the annoying cleanup,” says Rochelle. “In my book, Staub's grill pan earns extra points for its color selection (that lilac glaze!).” So if you still want to be able to have a grilling experience, but without the grill, you can grab the Staub Enameled Cast Iron Grill Pan for 36% off right now.
Staub 3.5-Quart Enameled Cast Iron Everything BraiserWilliams SonomaIt’s not every day that you’ll see a Staub Enameled Cast Iron Braiser on sale for 42% off. We’ve been long-time fans of the Staub braiser for its longevity, as it’s the most durable braiser model we’ve ever tested. A cross between a Dutch oven and a skillet, braisers offer the ability to shallow-fry, roast, sear, simmer, and more. “The Staub braiser is one of my favorites,” says Senior Commerce Editor Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm. “Its black enameled interior looks good as new after many cooking sessions, and its upturned, wide handles are nice to hold onto.”
Le Creuset 10-Inch Enameled Cast Iron Deep SkilletWilliams SonomaA great skillet will last forever through years of potato hashes, casseroles, and even chocolate cakes. We’ve tested dozens of cast iron skillets to find the best ones, and the Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Skillet rose to the top in our review of enameled cast iron skillets for its high heat retention and even heat distribution. In our tests, it made a perfect steak, released fried eggs beautifully, and baked up a golden skillet cornbread. For the Williams Sonoma Spring Sale, it’s currently 20% off.
All-Clad 10-Inch D3 Stainless Steel Fry PanWilliams SonomaIt’s no secret that we’re big fans of All-Clad cookware, but we realize this brand may not always be within budget. Out of all our skillet tests, the All-Clad D3 Stainless Steel Fry Pan has consistently stood with its exceptional heat conduction and durability. It’s also induction-friendly, and currently on sale with the steepest discount in Williams Sonoma’s Spring Sale, at 47% off. In our tests, the pan beautifully seared skin-on chicken, sautéed vegetables evenly, and deglazed and reduced liquid quickly.
Le Creuset Classic Whistling KettleWilliams SonomaIf you’re a classic kettle type, the Le Creuset Classic Whistling Kettle came out as one of the fastest-boiling models when we tested stovetop kettles. It boiled water lighting fast, tying for first place at boiling 1.5 quarts of water but shooting ahead by 30 seconds when it came to .75 quarts. We also appreciated the 3/4-inch spout which made pouring hot water easy (and safe!). It comes in a lovely variety of colorways, and right now, it’s on sale at 20% off.
Serious Eats / Robby LozanoNothing says "Happy birthday" like a stunning layer cake. And when it's homemade? Even better! These 19 birthday cake recipes offer something for everyone—from classic chocolate to a simple, delicious vanilla, and everything in between. So go on, get out the hats, light those birthday candles, and let them eat cake!
Classic Vanilla Butter Cake RecipeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis classic birthday cake base is tender, fluffy, and perfectly moist. We offer a detailed guide for making a layer cake and upping your birthday cake game, including how to level layers, what is a crumb coat, and recommendations for storing and serving.
Chocolate Birthday Layer CakeSerious Eats / Robby LozanoThis easy, moist chocolate layer cake gets deep flavor from cocoa powder and espresso powder and moisture from vegetable oil.
Red Velvet CakeSerious Eats / Debbie WeeFlavored with bittersweet cocoa and tangy buttermilk, then stacked with tart cream cheese frosting, this red velvet cake will keep you coming back for more.
Devil's Food CakeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikDark chocolate and Dutch cocoa make this devil's food twice as chocolaty.
Double-Strawberry CakeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikStrawberry in two forms infuses this layer cake with beautiful color and natural flavor.
White Cake With Brown Butter and Toasted SugarSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis is not a traditional "white" cake by any stretch; brown butter and toasted sugar boldly amplify its vanilla flavor.
Triple Coconut CakeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis riff on the Southern classic incorporates coconut in every form, giving the cake an all-natural flavor and super-moist crumb. The caramelized white chocolate coconut ganache is an optional extravagance, but don't skimp on the toasted coconut!
Oreo Cake With Oreo Whipped Cream FrostingSerious Eats / Julia HartbeckThis simple yet impressive chocolate cake is layered and topped with Oreo whipped cream.
Strawberry Buttercream Birthday CakeSerious Eats / María del Mar SacasaLayers of tender yellow cake are put together with sweetened condensed milk and a generous coat of billowy, strawberry-flecked buttercream.
Fluffy and Nutty Almond Layer CakeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikA substantial proportion of almond flour in the batter results in a dessert that strikes a balance between a fluffy American cake and a hearty European torte.
Brown Butter Carrot CakeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikBrown butter and toasted pecans make a carrot cake that's extra nutty and rich.
Texas Sheet CakeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis option is a delightful combination of fluffy cake and fudgy frosting that should be in every baker's repertoire.
Chocolate Cherry Layer CakeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikDark chocolate and tart cherry juice come together in this rich layer cake.
Classic Chiffon Cake With Vanilla ChantillySerious Eats / Vicky WasikChiffon is a quintessentially American cake, similar to angel food but delicately rich thanks to the addition of both egg yolks and oil.
Pumpkin CakeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikMade in the style of a yellow layer cake, this rich and moist pumpkin cake uses squash purée and autumnal spices to evoke the classic flavors of pumpkin pie.
Buttermilk Cappuccino CakeSerious Eats / Lauren WeisenthalThe cake is moist and tender, with the subtle tang from the buttermilk and just a hint of nutmeg. Soak the layers in a coffee syrup to add additional moisture and flavor, and then cover it with an espresso-flavored Swiss buttercream.
Blackberry and White Chocolate Layer CakeSerious Eats / Mimi Ritzen CrawfordThis beautiful lemon layer cake is accented with blackberry preserves, white chocolate icing, and wafer cookies.
Coconut Layer Cake with Chocolate GlazeSerious EatsThis layered coconut cake is enrobed in a chocolate glaze and sprinkled with toasted coconut.
Peanut Butter Chocolate CakeSerious Eats / Yvonne RupertiWith moist chocolate cake and luxurious peanut butter-chocolate ganache, this is an uber-rich, super-tall cake that will have everyone swooning.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyI first encountered tamagoyaki about five years ago. I was working my way through Masaharu Morimoto’s cookbook, Mastering the Art of Japanese Home Cooking, and started with tamagoyaki (a Japanese omelet)—I figured it would be easy. I bought a rectangular pan and got cooking, only to end up with a disheveled heap of egg. While it tasted good (tamagoyaki have a gentle sweetness from mirin and umami from soy sauce and dashi), it took dozens of tries to finally get a semi-perfectly rolled, layered omelet.
All this to say, while sushi masters spend years perfecting tamagoyaki, you CAN make a decent iteration at home. The first step to doing so is buying a tamagoyaki pan. I got some tips on what to look for in a tamagoyaki pan from Masaaki Saito, a bladesmith and former sushi chef who used to make dashi maki (a.k.a tamagoyaki with dashi) every day. After that, I rolled dozens of omelets with six pans to find three solid options for home cooks.
The Winners, at a GlanceThis nonstick pan makes it easy to roll delicate tamagoyaki at home. The handle was securely attached, and it had an inclined lip to help slide the finished omelet onto a plate.
This pan had a balanced handle that facilitated spreading the beaten egg mixture. It also sported an inclined lip, making it easy to remove the omelet.
This small, rectangular pan produced neat tamagoyaki, and I like the included silicone scraper, which helped fold each layer.
The TestsSerious Eats / Grace Kelly Seasoning Test: I seasoned the cast iron and copper pan before using them. * Tamagoyaki Test: I made this tamagoyaki recipe using each pan, noting how easy it was to use and what the final result was like. I also hand-washed each pan after use. * Durability Test (Winners Only)*: I used the best tamagoyaki pans to make five tamagoyaki in a row, noting if the pan sustained any damage or warping from frequent heating and cooling, and from rolling the omelets. I used the dishwasher to clean applicable pans and hand-washed the rest.
What Is Tamagoyaki?Serious Eats / Grace KellyTamagoyaki came about in the 1950s in Japan as a way to encourage the population to eat more protein. Today, in addition to being a bento box staple, this airy rolled omelet is also served in sushi restaurants, where it’s thought to signify how talented the chef is. In its most simple form, tamagoyaki is a rolled omelet that’s made by pouring a thin layer of mixed egg into a rectangular pan, then using a spatula or chopsticks to fold the egg layer. This little roll is pushed to the edge of the pan, lifted, and another layer of egg is poured, then the first layer is wrapped by this second layer. This continues four times, resulting in a layered, wrapped omelet that’s served in slices to show off its striations.
While that’s the general idea, tamagoyaki can come in various shapes, sizes, and flavorings. “There are several variations of tamagoyaki like Tokyo (sweet), Kyoto (savory and juicier) style, as well as grilled eel rolled inside,” says Saito. While there are also thicker offerings like datemaki, or thin shredded omelets like kinshi tamago, for my review of the pans, I focused on making home-style omelets flavored with mirin, soy sauce, and dashi.
What We LearnedNonstick Tamagoyaki Pans Are Best for BeginnersSerious Eats / Grace KellyWhile professional chefs may use copper tamagoyaki pans, Saito suggests nonstick skillets for home cooks and/or beginners because they’re easier to use. “Nonstick pans are easy for everyone, and there’s less chance of making mistakes,” he says. That said, the results from a copper pan will differ slightly from tamagoyaki made in nonstick or cast iron.
“Copper pans have fantastic thermal conductivity, so they make the omelet really fluffy while keeping the juiciness inside,” Saito says. “I find tamagoyaki cooked in nonstick and iron are a little drier and harder compared to one cooked in a copper pan, which feels like baby’s cheek.”
Copper does take a little more skill and effort, though, and requires seasoning and maintenance, or else you might end up with a pan gunked up with egg. “For experienced cooks, copper is the go-to, but they need to be seasoned and don’t work well with induction cooktops,” Saito says.
While nonstick is the easiest option for most home cooks, as we’ve said before, you shouldn’t spend a lot of money on a nonstick skillet, since it will break down over time—and the same is true of tamagoyaki pans. The good news: my three favorite pans are all under $30.
A Rectangular Pan With a Slanted Lip Was Easier to Work WithMost of the pans I tested were rectangular—about five by seven inches—and made it easy to whip up perfectly shaped tamagoyaki. Larger pans, like the copper Tikusan, which is a seven-by-seven-inch square with straight sides, were more difficult to use and my tamagoyaki ended up more like a thin roll than a brick. If you’re a newbie to making tamagoyaki, in addition to looking for a rectangular pan, I also recommend finding one with a slanted outer lip to make serving the omelet a cinch.
Utensils HelpedWatching a video of a skilled tamagoyaki chef is not only soothing, but also impressive. With a flick of the wrist and a pair of chopsticks they turn sheets of egg into a perfect, layered roll. While this is what I aspire to, I get by with a little help from my (utensil) friends. Specifically, this thin metal spatula (I know, I know... you're not supposed to use metal on a nonstick pan, but I've been doing this for years and haven't had an issue with it scraping the pan) and a silicone turner spatula; I like to slot the thin lip of the metal one under the egg to get it rolling, then nudge it along with the soft silicone turner to prevent any tearing. A few pans I tested, like the HooJay, came with a silicone scraper that was quite useful when folding each omelet layer.
A Good Handle Made It Easy to Swirl the Egg MixtureSerious Eats / Grace KellyMaking tamagoyaki involves pouring a layer of egg into the pan, then using the handle to swirl it so it coats the bottom—so you want a handle that’s comfortable to grip. I liked the Techef handle, which was elevated enough that it kept my hand a safe distance from the burner, but also provided enough grip and control to swirl the egg mixture. Conversely, I wasn’t a huge fan of handles that stuck up at a severe angle, like on the Yamasan and copper Tikusan, which made it tricky to spread the eggs.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Tamagoyaki PanSerious Eats / Grace KellyIf you’re new to tamagoyaki (or at the very least, aren’t on the same level as a sushi chef), I’d recommend starting with an affordable nonstick pan. It’ll be easy to use and clean, and the chances of rolling a perfectly pretty omelet are higher than they are with a square copper skillet. That said, if you’re a tamagoyaki pro, you might want to consider a copper skillet, which makes airier omelets. Either way, a good handle is a must—this makes it easy to spread the egg mixture. A slightly slanted lip also made it easier to create layers (it lets you slip a spatula into the pan) and plate the omelet.
Our Favorite Tamagoyaki PansWhat we liked: I loved the compact, rectangular shape of this pan, which made it easy to roll and layer tamagoyaki. The nonstick coating worked wonderfully and there were no scratches or damage after use. The handle is solidly attached, well-balanced, and has a divot near the pan that keeps your hand in place.
What we didn’t like: This is a nonstick pan, which means it has a finite lifespan.
Key Specs * Materials: Teflon nonstick coating, aluminum * Weight: 1 pound, 0.8 ounces * Pan dimensions: 7.5 x 5.5 inches * Handle length: 6.5 inches * Induction-friendly: Yes * Dishwasher-safe: Yes, though we recommend hand-washing nonstick skillets
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: I liked this pan’s sturdy, balanced handle (with a hook for hanging). Being able to confidently grip the handle helped the process of rolling the egg mixture. The omelets emerged light and fluffy.
What we didn’t like: The far edge of the pan is straighter than the others tested, so it requires a little finagling to remove the omelet from the pan. The wooden flipping tool didn't work.
Key Specs * Materials: Aluminum, nonstick coating, stainless steel * Weight: 14.7 ounces * Pan dimensions: 7.3 x 5.3 inches * Handle length: 5.75 inches * Induction-friendly: Yes * Dishwasher-safe: NA, so we’d recommend hand-washing (which we do for nonstick pans in general)
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: The slightly inclined lip helped me slide out finished omelets, and the silicone spatula got the omelet rolling (literally). It comes with a tiny silicone brush for wiping oil on the surface, which is a nice touch. It’s the cheapest winning pan by a few bucks.
What we didn’t like: The handle has a deep divot on the underside where it meets the pan, which is uncomfortable when you're gripping it. It’s also not as balanced/sturdy as our other winners.
Key Specs * Materials: Aluminum, nonstick coating, stainless steel * Weight: 12.4 ounces * Pan dimensions: 6 x 7 inches * Handle length: 6.5 inches * Induction-friendly: Yes * Dishwasher-safe: No
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Competition* Iwachu Iron Tamagoyaki Omelette Pan: This hefty cast iron pan was quite sticky, though I think with time and use it would become more nonstick. That said, it’s a challenging pan to use if you’re new to making tamagoyaki, and Saito says the omelets made in cast iron often emerge firmer than those made in copper. * Yamasan Japanese Iron Tamagoyaki Omelette Pan: This was a pricey pan, which made it all the more disappointing when the coating on the interior started to wear off after the first use. * TIKUSAN Japanese Tamagoyaki Omelets: While a copper pan can make a light and airy rolled omelet, it’s best used by confident tamagoyaki cooks. Plus, this version had a wooden handle that you had to affix to the pan by hammering a single, tiny nail into it—hence, it was very wobbly.
FAQsWhat is tamagoyaki?Tamagoyaki is a rectangular Japanese omelet made by layering thin sheets of beaten egg. It’s often flavored with soy sauce, mirin, and dashi, though there are lots of other iterations.
How are tamagoyaki pans different than nonstick skillets?Tamagoyaki pans are unique because of their shape: most are rectangular or square. This helps create the namesake omelet’s shape, and makes it easy to roll up each egg layer. Beyond that, they are similar to other nonstick skillets in terms of longevity and materials.
What else can you make in a tamagoyaki pan? Anything you want to be rectangular—but, seriously! If you have a nonstick tamagoyaki pan, you can use it to make French toast (the slices will fit perfectly, though you might only be able to cook one or two pieces at a time), square okonomiyaki, or rectangular scallion or kimchi pancakes…the list goes on.
What is the best material for a tamagoyaki pan?While sushi chefs often use copper tamagoyaki pans, which heat up quickly and produce lighter tamagoyaki, nonstick is the easiest for most home cooks.
Why We’re the Experts* Grace Kelly is a commerce editor at Serious Eats; prior to this, she was a reviews editor at America’s Test Kitchen. * She’s been testing gear for almost three years. * She has a tamagoyaki pan that she’s used for about five years at this point. * For this review, Grace tested six tamagoyaki pans by making around 21 omelets. She examined the pans for durability, results, and also how easy they were to clean. * She also interviewed Masaaki Saito, a bladesmith and former sushi chef, to get tips on what to look for in a tamagoyaki pan.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRice-and-meat stuffed vegetables, which often go by the name dolma, are popular throughout Central Asia, the Middle East, and the Mediterranean. Most versions follow the same basic template: vegetables (including cabbage or grape leaves) stuffed with a hearty mixture of ground meat and rice, aromatics like onion and garlic, tomato purée, red pepper paste, and herbs, slowly braised in a savory, tangy tomato broth.
Serious Eats / Qi AiOnce cooked, the rice bursts open, transforming the filling into a moist, tender, and cohesive mixture. The bundles are like juicy meatballs encased in a tender vegetable wrapper. Nestled in a pool of braising liquid, with a dollop of cooling yogurt on the side, dolma is a deeply satisfying dish—and a favorite in my Armenian family, both as a meal for large gatherings and even as a weeknight supper when made on a more modest scale.
A note about terminology: Dolma and sarma are generic Turkish terms meaning "stuffed" or "wrapped," respectively, and both can refer to the same basic dish. While usage varies and not everyone agrees on the precise definitions, to the degree there is a difference it's that dolma tends to refer to stuffed vegetables, typically bell peppers, large mild chile peppers, eggplant, zucchini, and tomato. Sarma, on the other hand, is used when the filling is rolled inside grape or cabbage leaves. With that said, many people just call the dish dolma even when cooking a combination of both rolled leaves and stuffed vegetables in the same pot, which is quite common. This recipe is written to use bell peppers, but the headnote contains instructions for other vegetable containers and leaf wrappers; for clarity’s sake, I'm calling this recipe dolma.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMy dolma recipe is pretty much identical to my family’s. Until now, my family’s recipe had only been passed around orally, with many of the essential techniques and steps implied but left unsaid. Because the dish is practically second-nature to everyone, the hardest part of sharing this recipe was getting everyone to spill their secrets so I could put it all down on paper.
While I wanted to stay true to the version I grew up with, I also wanted to experiment with incorporating a few tips and tricks to make what is usually a somewhat laborious process easier. After some tweaking, I’ve come up with a method for dolma that is easy, delicious, and satisfying no matter the cook's experience.
How to Fill DolmaThe typical dolma filling consists of sautéed aromatics—onions, garlic, dried spices, and herbs—combined with uncooked rice, ground beef or lamb, tomato and red pepper pastes, and fresh parsley.
The biggest change I made to the original recipe was to par-cook the rice before folding it into the filling. Traditionally, raw rice and meat are mixed together to make it; as the rice cooks, it draws moisture from the meat, drying it out. Par-cooking the rice first allows the grains to begin the process of gelatinization: They swell with moisture and soften before it’s used in the filling, keeping the meat moist and tender. It also speeds up the cooking of the filling, preventing the vegetables from becoming overly soft. The vegetables should be tender, but not fall apart before they make their way to the plate.
Serious Eats / Qi AiFor meat that stays juicy, I add a bit of baking soda to the ground meat, raising its pH and helping it retain moisture. As contributor Tim Chin wrote in his marinades investigation, a higher pH makes it more difficult for proteins to bond tightly during the cooking process. “Water gets trapped in the spaces between proteins,” he says, “so the meat holds on to more water and stays juicy.”
I like dried mint and basil as flavorings, though neither are traditional in my family, along with Aleppo and black pepper. (Dried basil—especially opal basil, which is the basil used most often in Levantine cuisine—doesn’t get nearly enough respect, and its floral, herbaceous flavor is especially nice in meatballs and meat stuffings.)
Braising DolmaOnce the vegetables are prepared, they are set into a pot to braise. The braising liquid for dolma can be as simple as just water (or broth), but it’s as likely to be somewhat more complex: a puréed tomato product of some kind, lemon juice, and a fat like butter or oil, all of which yield a bright, silky sauce to serve over and around the stuffed vegetables.
Serious Eats / Qi Ai
I like to use tomato paste in place of the traditional purée, since it forms a lovely, potent sauce when thinned out with water, and because I always have some on hand. Once the stuffed vegetables are combined with the braising liquid, a little water is added until the vegetables are fully submerged.
To keep the stuffed vegetables from floating in the pot and to keep the exposed surfaces of the filling from drying out and forming a skin, cooks usually set a small plate on top of the vegetables to weigh them down. The pot is then covered with a lid and heated on the stovetop (or in an oven) until the meat and rice is tender and the braising liquid has transformed into velvety sauce, an hour or so later. (Unlike some other rice-stuffed vegetable dishes, the stuffing in dolma should be juicy and soft, like a tender meatball, and not a loose mixture of rice and meat.)
I prefer braising my dolma in the oven, rather than on the stovetop, since it’s a more gentle and even cooking method. This means you can set a timer and walk away without the fear of scorching your vegetables on the bottom of the pot or fussing with a finely-calibrated burner setting.
Serious Eats / Qi Ai
Stuffing bell peppers is both easy and quick to do, so that’s the version I’ve focused on here. They’re easy to purchase in uniform shapes and sizes, and they take mere minutes to prep: You simply have to lop off their tops and remove the cores. Look for large peppers with square bases, as this will help them sit upright in the pot. Though green peppers are traditional, any color will do—I like an assortment of colors myself.
I like to think of bell peppers as a gateway vegetable for dolma—easy to use, and the perfect introduction to this delicious and satisfying dish. Once you’ve tried them, and become a fan, you might want to try using other vegetables too.
Preparing Other Vegetables for DolmaOnce you get comfortable with peppers and want to start utilizing other vegetables for dolma, things get slightly more complicated, especially when you use more than one kind in the same pot (as we usually do). They’re all pretty easy to prepare, but slightly more involved than bell peppers, which need nothing more than coring and filling. Moreover, it can be hard to predict exactly how many vegetables you’ll need, so it’s best to purchase a few extra to ensure you don’t run out of vessels for the filling. When you use a combination of wrappers, it’s even more challenging to figure out the exact amounts you need, and a bit of math is often required for those who want to mix-and-match.
Here’s a quick guide on how to make dolma with different vegetables.
Tomatoes* Use the same number of round, uniform tomatoes as peppers, or a larger number of smaller plum tomatoes. Remove the tops and cores, then mince and add the cores to the braisingliquid, as they’d add too much moisture to the filling. Keep in mind that tomatoes tend to become veryfragile after baking, so take care when removing them from the pot and avoid stacking them when serving. I recommend using a serving spoon—instead of tongs—to gently pick them up.
Zucchini, Summer Squash, and Eggplant* Look for vegetables that are as cylindrical and as uniform in thickness as possible. This is easier to do with zucchini and summer squash; you’ll need to find Asian eggplants, since fat globe eggplants are too portly to work, since they can’t easily be formed into small cylinders. Dolma is often made using dried eggplants—which have the benefit of coming pre-cored and ready-to-stuff once soaked in warm water to rehydrate them—but they are hard to find outside of Middle Eastern grocers or online. * Cut the vegetables into 2 1/2- to 3-inch lengths, taking care to make sure the bottoms are flat. Using a small spoon, hollow out the vegetables, leaving about 1/4-inch of flesh at the base and and sides. (You should be able to feel the spoon from the underside of the base.) * Six pounds of zucchini, summer squash, and/or eggplant should be enough for all the filling below—each vessel should get about 1/3 cup or 85 grams—though it’s not a bad idea to have a few extra vegetables on hand, especially when their diameters are on the narrow side.
Cabbage* Though cabbage is one of the most involved vegetables to prepare, it’s one of my favorite wrappers to use. (Though it isn’t traditional, Tuscan kale will work here too, as long as you shave the rigid rib until it’s the same thickness as the leaves, and blanch the leaves until tender.) * To make the leaves flexible enough to work with, it’s essential to tenderize them in boiling water. Use a sharp knife to remove the stem, along with the first quarter-inch or so of the surrounding leaves. Then, using a paring knife and a small spoon, scoop out the core completely, so the leaves are easily separated once blanched. * In an 8- to 10-quart Dutch oven or stockpot, bring 4 quarts (3.7L) of water to a boil over high heat. Add the cabbage, cut-side down, and cover the pot. Reduce heat to medium-high, keeping the pot at a vigorous simmer, and cook cabbage until a paring knife inserted into it yields easily, about 30 minutes. Transfer the cabbage to a large bowl, cover with cold water, and let sit until cool enough to handle, about 30 minutes. * Once cool, carefully peel the outer leaves from cabbage, taking care not to tear them. (You will need a total of 20 to 22 leaves 5- to 6-inches in diameter, so look for a large cabbage that weighs at least 3 pounds, or use two smaller ones.) To make the leaves as flexible as possible without breaking them, use a paring knife to shave off the thick side of the leaf’s central rib, making it flush with the remainder of the leaf. * To assemble, set one cabbage leaf on the counter rib side down with the stem end facing you. Place 1/4 cup (60g) of filling in the center of the leaf, then roll the stem end away from you and over the filling to gently form a 3-inch log. Fold the sides of the leaf in toward the filling like an envelope, then roll the bundle over itself into a compact log. Repeat with remaining leaves until no filling remains. * Use some of the remaining cabbage leaves to line the Dutch oven before starting step 6 of the recipe below. This creates a nest for the cabbage bundles. Lay the cabbage logs around the pot so they’re snug against one another, making two layers if needed.
Grape Leaves* My family grows grape leaves, relying on a treasured grapevine my grandfather found in the wild and transplanted to his yard fifty or so years ago—the clones of which are in nearly every one of my family member’s backyards now. These are the best grape leaves for sarma, but the brined, jarred ones you can buy from Middle Eastern grocers aren't terrible, either—and are a whole lot easier to find if you don’t have grape leaves growing in your garden.. * To use brined grape leaves, rinse at least 23—it’s good to have extras, but one large 16-ounce jar should do the trick— leaves in cold water, then drain them in a colander, pressing gently to remove any excess water. * Fill and roll the leaves as you would with the cabbage, using 1/4 cup (60g) filling per leaf (each should be 5- to 6-inches in diameter). (If you end up with smaller leaves, overlap pairs of them to create a single large wrapper.) Set the leaves shiny (or bright green) side down, with the rib facing up. As with the cabbage sarma, you’ll want to line the pot with leftover grape leaves (or blanched cabbage leaves) to hold the rolls in place. (There’s no need to use a whole head of cabbage; you can just peel off a few exterior leaves and blanch them separately.)
All these instructions might seem complicated, but once you’ve made dolma several times, it’ll start to feel like second nature. The dish is an excellent way to make the most of an end-of-summer bounty of garden vegetables, but even if you aren’t using produce straight from your garden, dolma is delicious. And if you love it as much as I do, then it’s sure to become a staple in your home as it is in mine.
Using a sharp knife, cut 1/2 inch off the stem end of peppers and set aside. Carefully run a paring knife along the cavity of the pepper to remove core, seeds, and ribs. Repeat with remaining peppers. Discard stems and finely mince pepper tops.
Serious Eats / Qi AiIn a medium saucepan, bring 4 cups (960ml) water to a boil over high heat. Add rice and return to a rolling boil, stirring occasionally, until rice is al dente, 5 to 7 minutes. (There should still be a firm core of undercooked rice in the center of each grain). Using a fine-mesh strainer, drain rice over the sink and immediately rinse with cold running water until rice is cool and water runs clear, about 1 minute. Place strainer over now empty pot and set aside to drain.
Serious Eats / Qi AiIn a large bowl, combine lamb or beef with 2 teaspoons salt and 1/4 teaspoon baking soda. Knead gently to combine set aside. Adjust oven rack to the lower middle position and heat oven to 375˚F (190ºC).
Serious Eats / Qi AiIn an 8-quart Dutch oven, melt 4 tablespoons (56g) butter over medium heat. Cook onion, pepper trimmings, and 1/2 teaspoon salt, stirring frequently, until onion is softened and translucent, 8 to 10 minutes. Add minced garlic, basil, mint, black pepper, and Aleppo pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Transfer onion mixture to bowl with meat. (Do not wash out pot.) Add rice to meat mixture, along with parsley, 2 tablespoons (30ml) tomato paste, and pepper paste. Knead mixture gently until uniform.
Serious Eats / Qi AiUsing a spoon, fill prepared peppers with rice and meat mixture, leaving about 1/4-inch headspace in each one. (Each pepper should get about 1/2 cup or 120g of filling.)
Serious Eats / Qi AiIn the same Dutch oven, combine 3 cups (720ml) water, crushed garlic cloves, lemon juice, remaining tomato paste, 2 tablespoons (28g) butter, and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from heat and place vegetables in pot, cut sides up, packing them side by side as tightly together as needed in a single layer. Cover and heat over medium-high heat until liquid comes to vigorous simmer, about 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Qi AiSet an overturned small ovenproof plate directly on peppers to weigh them down. Cover Dutch oven with lid and transfer to oven. Cook until rice is fully tender and peppers are soft, about an hour.
Serious Eats / Qi AiUsing tongs, carefully transfer peppers to a high-sided serving platter. Season sauce to taste, and ladle over and around peppers. Serve with yogurt and additional Aleppo pepper on the side.
Serious Eats / Qi AiSpecial Equipment8-quart Dutch oven, fine-mesh strainer, tongs
NotesYou can find Aleppo pepper at Middle Eastern markets or online. Korean gochugaru or paprika can be substituted for the Aleppo pepper in this recipe.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe filling can be made up to 24 hours in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container.
The uncooked, filled vegetables can be made up to 24 hours in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container.
Serious Eats / Madison WoitenIt doesn’t matter how you soak up the outdoors. Whether you’re a cabin lover, campground regular, or fair-weather camper, eating a well-made meal outside is a universal joy. For some, that looks like putting a hot dog on the sharpened end of a branch. For others, it could be a finely seared steak or perfectly caramelized vegetable skewers.
If you’re just starting out on your culinary adventure in the woods and want to make grilled meals that impress without having to fiddle with complicated knobs or levers, the editor-tested Cuisinart CGG-750 Venture Gas Grill will be your go-to this camping season. No larger than a picnic basket, this model is easy to pack up and transport without compromising on the quality of its grilling. If you’re putting together your camp kitchen setup for the season, snag the Cuisinart CGG-750 Venture Gas Grill while it’s still on sale for 20% off on Amazon.
Cuisinart CGG-750 Venture Gas GrillAmazonWhy It Won Our ReviewIn our test of seven portable gas grills, the Cuisinart CGG-750 Venture Gas Grill received top marks for, well, its impressive marks. The model had great searing ability despite its small, camping-friendly size. It’s quick to pack up and set up, plus it comes with a little wooden cutting board that doubles as a lid. The design also allows for storing a small propane tank underneath the firebox, making it easy to transport everything as a single unit.
A truly fine example of form and function, the grill performs just as well as it looks. Through grilling onion rounds, burgers, steaks, and even fish filets, the cast iron grates produced an “enviably golden-brown sear” despite the varying heat in some spots that resulted in extra char (although, who doesn’t like a bit of Maillard Reaction on overtime?). While it typically costs $210, you can grab it for $167 in rare sale over at Amazon.
Key Specs Dimensions: 13 x 16.25 x 10.75” * Grate material: Porcelain enameled cast-iron * Cooking area: 154 square inches * Weight: 20.6 pounds * Heat capacity: 9,000 BTU * Special features:* Includes removable cutting board, carrying strap, removable drip tray, and small propane tank storage base
FAQsWhat kind of propane tank is compatible with the Cuisinart CGG-750 Venture Gas Grill?This model can accommodate a 1-pound propane tank and does not have an adapter for larger tanks.
How do you clean a Cuisinart CGG-750 Venture Gas Grill?Keeping your grill clean is critical to the longevity of your grill. Cuisinart recommends hand-washing the grill grate with a mild cream cleaner on a non-abrasive pad where necessary. It should be dried thoroughly after washing so as to avoid rusting on the cast iron grates. For the grill body, Cuisinart recommends removing grease with a soft plastic or wooden scraper. Additionally, you can remove the burner to clean the body more fully using hot soapy water and a cloth or nylon-bristled brush only.
What kind of gas can be used with the Cuisinart CGG-750 Venture Gas Grill?You should only use liquid propane (LP) gas. Do not use natural gas or any other fuel source for this model.
How do you light the Cuisinart CGG-750 Venture Gas Grill?Once you’ve attached the liquid propane gas tank to the grill, the Cuisinart CGG-750 Venture Gas Grill has a single knob for ease of operation. You simply push the gas control knob in and turn it counterclockwise until you hear a click.
Why We’re The Experts* An Uong is a commerce writer for Serious Eats. * An is a camper of 10+ years who’s had her fair share of poorly executed campside meals. Don’t worry, she’s since perfected her camp kitchen setup. * We tested seven portable gas grill models to evaluate their ability to sear, ease of transport, and more. The Cuisinart CGG-750 Venture Gas Grill was among our favorites, especially for campers.
Serious Eats / Victor ProtasioChickpeas are a staple ingredient in our pantry. Looking beyond familiar standards like hummus, falafel, and chana masala, a wide variety of soups, braises, and salads leverage the satisfying heartiness of this creamy legume. In this collection, we focus on dishes where dried or canned chickpeas are the main ingredient, but we also decided to include several braises and stews where these beans play an essential supporting role.
Of course, whole chickpeas are just the beginning: chickpea flour can be fashioned into a crispy, savory batter for pakoras, or a soft and custardy farinata. Aquafaba, the cooking liquid found in canned chickpeas, is an essential egg substitute in vegan recipes for meringue, frosting, mayonnaise, and pancakes.
Pasta e Ceci (Pasta With Chickpeas)Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianPasta with brothy chickpeas is Italian comfort food at its best. For a creamier dish where chickpeas are used to thicken the sauce, see Daniel's recipe for vegan pasta with chickpea sauce.
Chickpea Stew With Bacon and Broccoli RabeSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerGot bacon and anchovies in the fridge and some onion and garlic kicking around? Then you have the base for this flavorful chickpea and vegetable stew.
Homemade FalafelSerious Eats / Qi AiThese perfectly fried balls of chickpea goodness are crisp on the outside, light and fluffy on the inside, and packed with herb and spice flavor. Tahini sauce is essential for serving, but a bowl of zhug at the table is our condiment of choice.
Maftool (Palestinian Wheat Pearls in a Vegetable, Chickpea, and Chicken Stew)Serious Eats / Mai KakishCaviar-sized pearls made of whole wheat served in a brothy stew with onions, chickpeas, butternut squash, and tender chicken.
The Best Smooth HummusSerious Eats / Qi AiKenji, drawing from the iconic hummus created by Michael Solomonov of Zahav fame, starts this recipe by puréeing a whole, unpeeled head of garlic in lemon juice, which mellows its spiciness. Once strained, this garlic-lemon juice is whisked into a tahini sauce. The chickpeas are overcooked with a little baking soda and blended while still hot. The tahini sauce and smooth chickpea purée is then whisked together to create an Israeli-style hummus that's both smooth and flavorful. If you want to make this style of hummus in late spring or summer, consider Kristina's recipe for garlic scape hummus.
Hummus Masabacha (Hummus With Whole Chickpeas)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikOn the other end of the chunky-smooth spectrum is this "deconstructed" recipe from Daniel for whole-chickpea hummus. A quarter of the chickpeas are blended with tahini sauce and the rest are folded in whole.
Papri Chaat (Indian Street Snack With Potato, Chickpeas, and Chutneys)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikPapri chaat is a traditional street snack found all over India, with crunchy, soft, and fluffy textures, all smothered in tangy, sweet, and hot chutneys. In addition to whole cooked chickpeas, this dish is topped with sev, or fried noodles made with chickpea flour.
Channa MasalaSerious Eats / Mateja Zvirotic AndrijanicPlump, tender chickpeas swimming in a tangy, tomatoey masala is one of our go-to comfort food dishes. Big on flavor and ready in under an hour, start to finish.
Chickpea, Coconut, and Cashew CurrySerious Eats / Andrew JanjigianThis rich curry is intense with garam masala and ginger, cooled by coconut milk and toasted and ground cashews.
Marinated Kale and Chickpea Salad With Sumac OnionsSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltA simple and hearty vegan salad, studded with tender chickpeas and bright, tangy pickled onions, is a perfect addition to cookouts, potlucks, and picnics, or just storing in the fridge for several days. The kale and onion retain their crunch and the flavors meld and develop over time. For a variation on this theme, see this crispy roasted chickpea kale number, which gets dressed with a punchy sun-dried tomato vinaigrette.
30-Minute Pressure Cooker Chicken With Chickpeas, Tomatoes, and ChorizoSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThis one-pot meal of tender chicken, chickpeas, and spinach tastes like it's been simmering all day in a creamy sauce flavored with ginger, garlic, and cumin. For another option that uses the same efficient template, check out Kenji's chorizo-spiced version, which comes together in just half an hour.
Chickpea, Potato, and Spinach Jalfrezi With Cilantro ChutneySerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltJalfrezi is an all-time favorite Indian restaurant dish in Britain for a reason. Spicy green chiles, onion, garlic, ginger, cilantro stems, and red peppers are fried in oil until almost all the moisture is driven from them and they become sticky and begin to brown. To this flavorful base, a few spices are added (hot paprika, cumin, coriander, and turmeric), along with chopped tomatoes. Kenji's vegan take on jalfrezi adds chickpeas, par-cooked potatoes, and a generous handful of spinach.
Vegan Garbanzos con Espinacas y Jengibre (Spanish Chickpea and Spinach Stew With Ginger)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltKenji's vegan version of this tapas bar standard is brightened by adding fresh ginger purée to the braising liquid and a last-minute splash of sherry vinegar.
Vegan Chickpea Cakes with Mashed AvocadoSerious Eats / Victor ProtasioThese crunchy, falafel-esque patties come together in a fraction of the time. Instead of having to soak dried chickpeas, here soaked bulgur and canned chickpeas are roughly pureed and act as a binder. Some of the beans are mixed in whole, which provides a satisfying internal texture. A crisp, panko crust and a topping of smashed avocado and lime juice add even more textural contrast, and a creamy-tart element.
Nadin BurqanAs the adhan, or call to prayer, blares from my mom’s phone, I gather with her and my dad at the dinner table. I whisper a quick “Bismillah” to myself before taking my first sip of water since 6 a.m., followed by a medjool date. We then commence our iftar with our usual: a tomato soup with freekeh along with sambusas, crispy fried hand-held meat pies stuffed with cinnamon-spiced ground beef. These are just a few of the recipes my family has saved exclusively for Ramadan since I was little.
While this holy month and its foods are deeply familiar to me, it had been a while since I'd experienced the hunger, thirst, and eventual relief after each day's fasting. That's because, prior to this year, I hadn't fasted since 2020. What brought me back to Ramadan this year is also the first thing that has filled my mind each night for the past month just as I'm about to take my first bite: Gaza and its people.
When I was young, Ramadan had always felt more like an obligation than a joyous practice, especially since I never found myself gravitating to the Muslim community in my area. Not having any friends who practiced the same religion as me made me feel like an outcast amongst my own social circle, and left me with a deep sense of insecurity about both my faith and culture.
The only aspect of my culture that didn’t bring me shame was the foods I was brought up with. I relished being raised in a house full of flavor, where home cooked meals were second nature, as was gathering to eat dinner as a family. Biting into sfeeha, individual pizza-like rounds topped with yogurt-marinated beef, or scooping up a bit of ful medames with pita bread after a long day of fasting comforted me when I felt otherwise unsettled by the aspects of myself that were so different from others. I can’t remember a day when I didn’t come home from school and open the front door to the scent of warm spices filling the air, pots clamoring against each other, and my mom working hard to get a fresh meal on the table for dinner, especially during Ramadan; her emphasis on cooking and feeding the family is one of the ways she has always expressed her love for us.
As much as I loved the food we ate during Ramadan, I was less convinced about the fasting part, and I would complain regularly as both a teenager and a young adult. “Fasting has to come from your heart and soul,” my mom always responded. “If you’re not fully into it, not fully committed, then your fast has no meaning.”
I continued to grapple with the religious requirement, often seeing it as more of an inconvenience and unable to connect to the deeper meaning of the holy month. So eventually I took her message to heart and quit observing the holiday. Despite feeling a strong connection to my culture and religion as an adult, I didn't feel compelled to fast. The only option that made sense to me was to opt out completely.
But this year is different. Ever since the attacks on Gaza began after the events of October 7th, I’ve found myself looking to my faith more and more. I've been in a near constant state of fear and helplessness as I've watched the news and learned of the killings of thousands of innocent civilians. As it became clear quite early on that this would not end anytime soon, I began thinking ahead to Ramadan. How would the people of Gaza fare during the holy month in these conditions? And for the first time, I felt something inside of me that I hadn't felt before: a profound obligation to participate in the fast. Perhaps, through the act of fasting, I could feel connected to my people during a time of such complete devastation. And maybe reconnecting with my faith in this way could help me feel hope when hope was all but otherwise lost.
I tried my best to immerse myself in the spirit of Ramadan this year, paying close attention to my Palestinian mother as she prepared the pre- and post-fast meals for suhoor and iftar. Every day, she'd gather simple ingredients Palestinians have used for centuries—cucumbers, tomatoes, parsley, chickpeas, and, of course, olives and their oil—to make traditional recipes like salata falahiyeh (farmers salad) and hummus. Almost every night, I would help her roll dough for sambusas and fill them with meat before my dad fried them. I hovered close to her, making note of how she prepared dishes like sumac-heavy msakhan, one of my personal favorites, and sweet qatayef, semolina pancakes folded and stuffed with cream or nuts, fried, and dunked in simple syrup.
Along the way, I sensed something different in her compared to all the times I've watched her in the kitchen before. Her duty to cook for her family seemed heightened, strengthened by the knowledge that many mothers in Gaza no longer have the same privilege. Cooking these recipes that are so close to her heart and passing them down to me also took on a new dimension—a defiant attempt to keep her culture alive while others are attempting to erase it.
Our Ramadan this year changed in another important way, too. In all the years before, our meals to break our daily fast were private—shared by my family, never with my friends. I felt compelled to invite others outside of the community to share what I could about both my Palestinian heritage and my religion. I hosted an iftar for a few of my close non-Muslim friends from college and graduate school in hopes that opening up our doors and inviting them to join in on this practice would build a more intimate understanding of both our religious traditions and the wider Palestinian community, strengthening both as a result.
My mom and I spent all day cooking together, with maqlubeh as the centerpiece of the meal. While I worried the evening might be awkward, especially given the weight of the war that hovered over it, my friends moved through the night as if they were at home, connecting with my parents and going for seconds, even thirds. The evening was a success, but also left me feeling conflicted. Layered on top of the fulfillment and a sense of purpose that the dinner created for me was a lingering sense of guilt for being able to cook this feast and gather with friends simply because I live here and not in Gaza.
It’s a strange feeling to use food in this way, to actively set out to make what those in Gaza can no longer enjoy. I’ve long struggled with the knowledge that while I’m Palestinian by blood, I grew up an American and was therefore spared the suffering of Palestinians abroad. But no matter how bad it gets, they never seem to give up. And if they can remain committed to a holy month of fasting even in the face of starvation—and many of them have—then there’s no reason I can’t do the same with all that I have.
My decision to fast this year is not worthy of any sort of praise; after all, fasting is one of the five pillars of Islam that most Muslims participate in every year without even thinking twice about. But looking back on this month of Ramadan, my fasts have acted as a symbolic reminder of the unrelenting suffering Palestinians have been experiencing day after day. At the same time, the breaking of those fasts each night with ample plates of food has been a painful reminder that my choice to observe Ramadan this year will not save a single soul in Gaza. To fast, to cook with my mother, and to sit down with family and friends over the foods of my culture is not a resolution, but a small yet sincere way to honor the Palestinian people—the tens of thousands that have been killed and those that remain—and keep them in my heart and soul, committed and with meaning. With that, I hold on to hope that someday soon they’ll see freedom.
Courtesy of Sumayya Usmani; Getty ImagesThe low ceiling of my London flat was filled with festive smoke. Saffron, cardamom, and cloves slowly infused in sugar syrup while I cooked roasted vermicelli with ghee in another pan for the seviyan dessert. I hadn’t cooked like this in years, and my small London flat’s smoke alarm was close to activation.
It was my first Eid away from my family, and partly, it felt liberating. Growing up in Pakistan, I had grown tired of familial expectations, especially around the Eid holidays. I moved to London when I was thirty-three, before later moving to Scotland, and I was looking for a chance at a new life. I was relieved to get away from small talk over samosas and chai with relatives and chewing politely behind a saccharine smile. I accepted that Eid would be lonely living in the U.K. and that suited me just fine.
There were some moments I knew I’d miss, like waking up to the warm scents of cardamom and roasted vermicelli. Each Eid morning, Mummy made my Dadi (paternal grandmother) her Qawami seviyan (pictured above), which included sixteen parts sugar to one part fine roasted vermicelli, along with cloves, saffron, and cardamom. This was an indulgent Eid breakfast in our home that I looked forward to, but that delight was often dulled by my mother’s narration of the day's visits to family members. It was the judgment from relatives that I hated most—those sideways glances and hushed tones about my divorce, or the eyebrow raises at my tattooed arms peeping through my kurta sleeve.
The month of Ramadan itself felt unceremonious in England. I missed the shorter working days Ramadan brought with it in Pakistan. On the way home from work when I was in Pakistan, we’d pick up fried snacks to break the fast with at iftar. Every street corner would be lined with stalls selling chickpea battered deep-fried pakoras, and saffron syrup-dipped donuts called jalebis just before sunset. Around the end of Ramadan, my mother would buy boxes full of groceries to give to families in need for Eid. Thinking of shopping with my cousins on Chand Raat (the night before Eid), and the organized chaos of the bazaars where we’d stain our hands with henna patterns and buy coloured glass bangles to match our new Eid outfits filled me with nostalgia.
In England, there was none of that. I’d convinced myself to try and conform with my new surroundings and didn’t tell anyone I was fasting. I had to work as usual through Ramadan and my hunger would peak at midday when my colleagues consumed sandwiches and salads at their desks in our open-plan office. One day at lunchtime, I decided to join them in the office cafeteria so I could get to know people. Alice, my boss, asked why I wasn’t eating, and I told her about Ramadan and Eid. I shared stories of my mother’s cooking and the all-encompassing scents of saffron and cardamom that always wafted through our kitchen, the itchy Eid clothes I’d wear, the clinking glass bangles that graced my arms, and the henna on my palms. I also told her about the aunties and uncles with their judgment and gossip. Before I knew it, my stories of warmer places and delicious food led Alice to invite herself over alongside my friends for Eid.
Pictured: Lamb Biryani With Saffron, Yogurt, and Caramelized OnionsSerious Eats / Qi AiFor years, Mummy had picked on me for not learning Eid recipes, and now I wished so much that I’d paid attention. With the help of long phone calls with my mother, I found myself immersed in curating the perfect Eid menu to impress my boss. Mummy gave me vague lists of ingredients, and I attempted to convert her confusing instructions into actual measurements and methods. Finally, I decided to make Sindhi biryani, a layered rice dish with pomegranate and dried plums with mutton or beef, and haleem, a lentil and meat porridge with garam masala, as well as fresh homemade naans; for dessert, I opted for my Dadi’s seviyan and rasmalai, sweet cottage cheese dumplings in milk.
My local South Asian store had most ingredients for the biryani like aloo bukhara (dried plum) and anardana (dried pomegranate), as well as the roasted fine vermicelli for seviyan. Mutton for the biryani, however, proved more problematic, so I resorted to using beef. I decided to attempt my mother’s dahi baras as well—these comforting chickpea flour dumplings with cool yogurt, tamarind, and mint chutneys were always on the Eid table. As I walked through the aisles of the store, the familiar spice labels and the shelves filled with Pakistani rice and atta flour filled me with an ache for home. I longed for my mother’s cooking; I even missed her voice that berated me to learn to cook.
As I prepared for the Eid lunch that day, heating whole spices in ghee, something about the cocktail of korma spices for my biryani evoked my lost anticipation for Eid. I didn’t feel alone in the kitchen; it was as if both my grandmother’s ghosts were at my side, telling me when to stir or add ingredients. The voices of the women from my family who prepared this same meal in the past felt present there that day, even though this tiny London loft kitchen was so far removed from my family kitchen in Karachi. There was something about the act of cooking Eid lunch that created a sense of home and a rekindling of happier memories.
I was transported to a time when Eid meant more than just the judging aunties and boring conversations. I remembered what my Nani (maternal grandmother) had always called “vintage Eid.” Each year, her elder brother, Iqbal, hosted a large Eid dinner at his beautiful home in Karachi. Uncle Iqbal had been in the foreign service and was posted in Washington, DC for many years; when he returned, he'd built a home reminiscent of American homes with mantel places and large windows—it was very unlike the homes in Pakistan, so I found it fascinating. Best of all, he brought back American sweets to give to the children on Eid: Twinkies, M&M’s, and Fruit Roll-Ups, all of which were impossible to find in Pakistan.
I also looked forward to the envelopes of Eidee money we’d receive from all the relatives, a tradition on Eid for young children. All the female family members, including my grandmothers and my mother, would sit in the vintage-style drawing room with floral wallpaper, rosewood carved furniture, and a large piano that was always left unplayed, and the men would be in the cigar room. The faint smell of spices and the charcoal from the barbeque in the back open-air kitchen would mingle with the honeyed cigar smoke. The uncles in their three-piece suits would greet each other with formal hugs and the aunties in their shiny, mismatched shalwar kameez outfits would kiss me, leaving their lipstick stains on my cheek.
I’d bear it all for the sweets, the money, and the lavish Eid lunch that Uncle Iqbal’s cook created; this was what everyone came together for after all. Lunch would be served in the airy dining room that had a slight musty old wood smell. The heavy mahogany dining table in the middle of the room was packed with so many dishes that you could barely see its surface. The beige lace curtains in the French windows always looked dusty and the silver candelabra lay on the side credenza was blackened with diskeep. I could hear a faint string quartet playing, but I never spotted speakers anywhere.
Everyone would rush to the table, crowding around the dishes like moths. There were freshly made shish kebabs and naans from the tandoor, haleem, raita, and nihari, a slow-cooked meat stew flavored with spices, along with condiments like finely slivered ginger, coriander, mint, and browned onions; a platter of mutton biryani served as the centerpiece of the table. Dessert would be served an hour later: rasmalai, seviyan, and pistachio kulfi ice cream. Luckily for me, children would get first dibs at dessert. We’d eat about four helpings and come home in the early afternoon, only to fall into a deep food coma.
As I prepared my Eid meal in London, I felt something shift. I’d spent so long focusing on the negative memories of Eid and blocking out the happier ones—family and the festive chatter that filled the walls of our homes with joy. I forgot the aunties and their remarks and instead, remembered my grandmothers, the candy, kulfi, the packs of Eidee, and all of us together at Uncle Iqbal’s home. Now, I’d brought together new friends in a new home around a meal that represented my traditions. Alice was left in awe of the flavors of Pakistani food.
As I served my grandmother’s seviyan to my coworkers, I sent a photo of it to my mother, who was impressed at how much it looked like hers. It even tasted the same—maybe because I put in just the same amount of love and commitment in cooking as my grandmothers and mother did. I felt proud of this inescapable part of who I was—my culinary culture and my family recipes, something that I could recreate and share wherever I was. That year I reconnected with Eid and celebrated the festival’s true essence of gratitude, tradition, and making memories.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI don’t remember the first time I tried Boston cream pie. I do, however, remember my confusion before trying it for the first time: Wait, it’s not a pie? The dessert’s name had bamboozled me, like it had many others. I was, until I ate it for the first time, under the impression that a dessert called Boston cream pie was, in fact, a pie. Imagine my surprise when someone served me a layer cake with lush vanilla pastry cream sandwiched between two soft sponge cakes and a thin coating of rich chocolate ganache on top. Though it was nothing like the cream pie I’d envisioned, it was delicious. There’s not much to hate about cake, pastry cream, and chocolate—and polishing it off was as easy as pie.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Origins of Boston Cream PieToday, Boston cream pie is the official dessert of Massachusetts, but where it comes from is often disputed. Some say the cake is a custard-filled variation of Washington pie, a jam-filled layer cake that was popular in the 1800s. Others credit Boston’s Parker House hotel (today the Omni Parker House) with inventing it. According to Greg Patent, a James Beard award–winning cookbook author who traced the origins of the dessert for Gastronomica, it’s possible that both theories are true: That bakers did make versions of the Washington Pie with custard and that, separately, the hotel came up with what they thought was an original dessert.
Many recipes for Washington pie in the late 1800s gave home cooks the option of using pastry cream or custard, but with no mention of the BCP’s signature chocolate glaze. Cookbooks from that era, like Fannie Farmer’s 1895 The Boston Cooking-school Cook Book, include recipes for similar desserts—custard-filled or cream-filled cake, albeit without the chocolate glaze—under different names, like cream pie, French cream cake, or Boston cream cake. This suggests that home cooks were making some version of “Boston cream pie” despite there not being a common name for the sweet.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
The Omni Parker House’s archival material, including menus and recipe books, suggest they were the first to serve the dessert as we know it today: a tender cake called a biscuit au beurre split in two, layered with pastry cream, and glazed with chocolate. Writing for GastroObscura, journalist Julie Tremaine says it was the Boston cream pie that changed how most Americans approached chocolate as an ingredient. At the time, chocolate wasn’t a widely available ingredient. Before the BCP, most Americans enjoyed chocolate as a drink; using chocolate in a cake was “groundbreaking.” The dessert, Tremaine says, “was a pioneer, forever changing Americans’ relationship with chocolate.”
As chocolate became more common, American home cooks sought to recreate the famous dessert at home. “Thus, what we call the Boston Cream Pie today is an attempt to copy a glorious hotel dessert…which evolved separately from the Washington Pie,” Patent writes. As to why the confection is called a pie, bakers originally prepared Boston cream pie in Washington pie plates. Though we no longer bake the sponge in a pie tin, the dessert’s name remains.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAn Easier Approach to Biscuit au Beurre: Hot Milk CakeThe pastry chefs at the Omni Parker House make their BCP with a biscuit au beurre, a tender French cake. Like the genoise, there are no chemical leaveners in a biscuit au beurre; it instead relies entirely on whipped eggs for its light and fluffy texture. Making the cake successfully involves whipping the egg whites and yolks separately with sugar until doubled in volume, gently folding flour in, followed by melted butter. Though the method itself seems pretty straightforward, several complications can arise: you could under or over whip your egg whites or deflate the batter while incorporating the flour, threatening the cake’s ability to rise in the oven.
You don’t have to go through all that trouble for a cake with a similar texture, though. In this recipe, I’ve opted for a much simpler sponge that’s practically impossible to mess up—and still bakes into a light, golden cake with a texture close to that of biscuit au beurre. And you don’t even have to separate the eggs! Allow me to introduce you to hot milk cake, a dessert that dates back to the early 1900s and became especially popular around the Depression and World War Two.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezHome cooks loved it for its versatility and affordability; when ingredients like fresh dairy and sugar were rationed during wartime, American home cooks relied on pantry staples like milk powder. Many hot milk sponge cake recipes from that era had bakers use non-fat dry milk powder in place of fresh milk, making the confection even more affordable and accessible. Many newspapers from that era, including the St. Louis Star-Times in 1948, described the cake as “inexpensive and easy to make.”
“Every homemaker likes to have a quick, easy, good-tasting cake recipe that can be whipped up for unexpected company or family desserts,” wrote Marian Manners in The Los Angeles Times in 1952. “The hot milk sponge cake…is just that exact cake.” To make the cake, all you had to do was whip whole eggs with sugar until pale, fluffy, and doubled in volume, then pour in a mixture of hot milk and butter, before finally incorporating the flour, salt, and baking powder. Everything comes together in the bowl of a stand mixer—no gentle folding of whipped egg yolks into egg whites followed by flour and butter.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
Like the biscuit au beurre, the aeration from whipping eggs helps leaven the cake. But unlike its French cousin, the hot milk sponge cake has baking powder, which offers an additional layer of protection and guarantees its rise. While the biscuit au beurre only calls for melted butter, hot milk cake typically involves a mixture of hot milk and butter. In both cakes, the melted fat coats the flour particles, making it more difficult for gluten chains to develop and producing a soft cake.
While whole milk did produce a pillowy cake, I wanted to up the fat slightly for a more tender crumb—and landed on a mixture of half-and-half with butter in this recipe. Heavy cream made the cake heavier than ideal, but half-and-half struck a happy medium. I also experimented with vegetable oil—which is 100% fat—in place of butter, but the cake lacked the rich flavor that butter brought, and there wasn’t a particularly noticeable difference in tenderness. Like the biscuit au beurre, the hot milk sponge is tender and flavorful.
The Pastry CreamPastry cream, or crème pâtissière, stars in many popular desserts, including éclairs and cream puffs and…wouldn’t you know it, Boston cream pie. We could go the easy way out and use instant custard or pudding mix, but most ready-made mixes are cloyingly sweet, with an artificial flavor that I generally find unpleasant. Whipping up your own pastry cream allows you to control the sweetness and thickness of the filling, and if you have time to spare, you could even infuse the milk overnight with a vanilla bean.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
Below, I use former editor Kristina Razon’s tried-and-true method for pastry cream. Steeping the milk with a scraped vanilla bean infuses it with a deep, floral flavor, while cornstarch helps to thicken it. The secret to pastry cream success is to cook the custard adequately on the stove by allowing it to bubble for a full minute. This allows the cornstarch to gelatinize—thickening the custard—and deactivates amylase, an enzyme that can slowly eat away starch molecules and turn pastry cream into a watery mess. Don’t worry about curdling the cream; as Kristina notes, “the milk dilutes the egg proteins, so they’re farther apart and less likely to rapidly and tightly bond. On top of that, both the starch and the sugar run additional interference to prevent the egg proteins from bonding.” So let your pastry cream bubble away—just make sure you’re whisking constantly to prevent scorching.
The Simple SyrupIf you’ve ever had a bad layer cake, chances are it was appallingly dry. While the Boston cream pie is made with a soft hot milk cake and has plenty of velvety pastry cream, it doesn’t hurt to quickly brush the cake with some simple syrup to keep it moist. It’s the easiest thing to do: combine sugar and water together in a saucepan over medium heat and whisk until the sugar’s dissolved. You won’t need all of the syrup, and you can save and use any leftovers to sweeten your beverages.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe GanacheAt the Omni Parker House, the chefs glaze the top of the cake with chocolate fondant icing that’s feathered with white fondant icing. This all looks lovely, but I much prefer a rich ganache to the fondant icing that’s traditionally used. Most ganache recipes will have you pour scalding cream over your chocolate before using a whisk or immersion blender to emulsify it with room temperature butter. Many pastry chefs will use a bain marie for this task, as the vertical, metal container is better at maintaining heat, ensuring the cream properly melts the chocolate. While I do think that is the superior method if you work in a commercial kitchen—as the blade of the immersion blender is the best for emulsifying chocolate and creates silky ganaches—most home cooks don’t have a bain marie at home.
Instead, it’s easier and more practical for most people to just use a heat-proof bowl at home. But simply pouring hot cream over the ganache to melt it isn’t efficient in a bowl, as its wide opening allows heat to escape quickly and cools the chocolate before it’s had a chance to even melt properly. The faster and foolproof way to get a silky ganache at home? Preparing it with a double boiler.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
Just as you’d melt chocolate by placing a bowl of it on top of a saucepan of simmering water, the most foolproof method for making ganache without a bain marie and immersion blender is to melt the chocolate and cream together in a bowl set atop barely simmering water. This helps to evenly heat the cream and melt the chocolate. Once the chocolate is melted, you’ll want to cool it slightly.
Ganache that’s too hot will just run right off a cake; you want to cool it to about 35ºC or 95ºF so it’s still pourable but thick enough to cling to the cake.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
(If your chocolate has cooled too much, you can reheat it with the double boiler until you reach your desired texture. Alternatively, you can microwave it in 5 to 10 second increments until melted.)
I add a teaspoon of corn syrup, which gives the ganache additional shine, and a touch of salt just to balance the sweetness of the cake. Dark chocolate is my chocolate of choice here, as it tends to have a pleasant bittersweet and fruit flavor, but if you’d prefer a glaze on the sweeter side, you’re more than welcome to experiment with milk chocolate.
Assembling the CakeBesides baking the actual cake, assembling a layer cake is possibly the most intimidating part for most home bakers. Most layer cakes would have you level the cake, stack it with whatever buttercream or frosting you’re using, then crumb coat and refrigerate it. Luckily for us, a Boston cream pie requires no crumb coat. You really just have to brush the cake with simple syrup, sandwich a generous layer of pastry cream, then glaze the top of the cake with chocolate ganache. You can use an offset spatula to spread it neatly across the top or create decorative drips down the cake.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMy version of Boston cream pie may have a few differences from the original, but it’s a whole lot easier—and just as satisfying to eat. And you didn’t even have to travel to Boston for it.
Adjust rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350ºF (175ºC). Butter two 9-inch cake pans with unsalted butter, then dust with cake flour, shaking out excess.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a medium bowl, whisk together cake flour, baking powder, and salt.
In a small saucepan, heat half-and-half and butter over medium-low heat until butter has melted, about 3 minutes.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip eggs and granulated sugar on medium-high speed until yolks are thick and pale yellow color, and doubled in volume, 5 to 7 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezReduce mixer speed to low, and slowly pour in half-and-half mixture. Continue to whisk until combined, about 15 seconds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWith the mixer on low speed, gradually add the dry mixture 1/4 cup at a time, until just incorporated, about 2 minutes. Using a flexible spatula, scrape down sides and bottom of the bowl to ensure there are no dry bits. (If any remain, use spatula to gently fold until incorporated.) Divide batter between prepared cake pans and, using an offset spatula, smooth surface. Gently tap cake pans on kitchen counter to eliminate any large air bubbles.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBake, rotating halfway through, until cake has risen by about 1 inch, is light golden, and springs back when gently touched, 17 to 20 minutes. Transfer pans to a wire rack and allow cakes to cool in pans for 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRun an offset spatula or butter knife around the edges of cake, then carefully invert cake onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Let cool completely, at least 30 minutes. (Cooled cake can be lightly wrapped in plastic wrap and stored at room temperature for up to 24 hours.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Simple Syrup: In a small saucepan, bring sugar and water to a simmer over medium heat and cook, whisking, until sugar is fully dissolved, 5 to 7 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Chocolate Ganache: Place chocolate, heavy cream, corn syrup, and salt in a medium heatproof bowl. Set over a small saucepan of gently simmering water and heat, stirring occasionally, until chocolate is fully melted, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat, stir to combine. Add butter and gently fold until ganache is smooth and shiny. Set aside until cool and slightly thickened (35ºC or 95ºF) but still fluid enough to pour, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo Assemble: Whisk pastry cream until smooth. Place one cake on a plate. Brush cake evenly with 1 to 2 tablespoons simple syrup. Top with 2 cups pastry cream, using an offset spatula to spread it evenly from edge to edge. Top with the second cake and brush cake evenly with 1 to 2 tablespoons simple syrup, allowing the cake to absorb it. Pour slightly thickened ganache over cake and, using an offset spatula, spread evenly to cover cake, letting excess ganache drip decoratively over the sides of the cake. Serve immediately or allow ganache to cool until firm.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentTwo 9-inch cake pans, stand mixer, wire rack, offset spatula or butter knife, parchment, pastry brush
NotesIf your chocolate has cooled too much, you can reheat it with the double boiler until you reach your desired texture. Alternatively, you can microwave it in 5 to 10 second increments until melted.
Make-Ahead and StorageCooled cake rounds can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and held at room temperature for up to 24 hours. The assembled cake is best eaten on the day it's made.
I grew up in a semi-homemade household. For example, we amped up canned tomato sauce with fresh veggies and aromatics, stirred pudding mix into boxed cake mix before baking for a richer cake, and added chocolate chips to boxed pancake mix for a special treat. My dad was the cook in our family, but weekends were my mom's time to tie on an apron, and she loved making pancakes and waffles for breakfast. Even though she quickly whipped them up from the box, it still felt special.
Today, as much as I enjoy preparing a from-scratch batch of pancakes (it's not that hard), I still have a soft spot for the convenience offered by boxed mixes. Sometimes adding little more than water to an otherwise ready-to-go dry ingredient blend is the ease I need to get some fluffy pancakes on the table. And yet I and many of you are tinkerers at heart—can I add just one more ingredient to make this boxed mix even more special, or at least…different?
Serious Eats / Liz Volt
It's a fair question, and one many publications have tried to answer, though in many cases they offer their suggestions without having actually tried the modifications first. I wanted to do one better by making literally dozens of different types of pancakes, all from a boxed mix but with alterations, to see which were worth the trouble and which weren't.
With the help of my dad's trusty electric griddle, I now offer a list of boxed pancake mix upgrades and modifications that are tried and tested—they worked for me and I'm confident they'll work for you too.
Serious Eats / Kelli SolomonHow I TestedI chose to run this test using Bisquick, a widely available mass-market brand, which calls for a cup of milk and two whole eggs per two cups of pancake mix (which I weighed as 246g).
Before cooking a single pancake,I learned quite a bit by reading our prior boxed cake mix testing, which shares many similarities with pancakes. Some of the results from those tests, like adding coffee, mayonnaise, and jam, were bad enough that I didn't bother testing those tricks this time.
For these pancake tests, I first made a control group of pancakes by following the instructions on the box. Keep in mind that the Bisquick box's recipe used 2 cups of pancake mix to produce about 14 pancakes that were about five inches across each, and all my tests were scaled to that batch size.
Then I tried a series of changes to the base recipe, comparing the results to see how those alterations changed the pancakes in taste, fluffiness, and texture, noting whether I thought each addition produced a positive, neutral, or negative change. The results are therefore grouped below based on whether they are recommended, neutral, or not recommended.
Serious Eats / Kelli SolomonRecommended: Go for It, the Below Make Great Pancakes!Oat MilkWhile I did not test every alternative milk out there (there are just too many these days), I can confirm that oat milk is a worthy substitution for dairy milk. These pancakes tasted slightly sweeter and browned a little faster but were otherwise not distinguishable from the standard cow's milk pancakes. I assume other non-dairy milk would have a similar result as long as it's unsweetened.
ButtermilkThe buttermilk I got from my local grocery was very thick, about the consistency of conventional yogurt. This made the batter less spreadable and closer to a cake batter but with a fermented dairy smell; most buttermilk is thinner than the product I bought. Because the buttermilk thickened the batter, and because buttermilk is acidic (creating a stronger reaction with the alkaline leaveners in the pancake mix), the pancakes cooked up much thicker, continuing to grow taller as they cooked. The result was a super fluffy pancake twice as thick as the control batch with a slightly tart note from the buttermilk. I liked these pancakes quite a bit, though if you wanted slightly less tall ones, you could thin the batter by eye with additional buttermilk or regular milk.
Sour Cream & Greek YogurtSince sour cream and Greek yogurt are both dense, a one-to-one substitution for whole milk would be too thick. I replaced half of the whole milk with sour cream or yogurt. Both batters had a consistency similar to the buttermilk, which was very thick; as above, one could change the ratio of fermented dairy to the milk or add more milk to thin the batter, if desired. As with the buttermilk, the sour cream and yogurt boosted the leaveners in the pancake mix and made super thick and slightly tangy pancakes. The sour cream pancakes were maybe slightly more acidic than the yogurt pancakes, but both were pretty subtle and very delicious. I think I still prefer the buttermilk pancakes, but I’m more likely to have Greek yogurt in my fridge, so I will definitely make yogurt pancakes again.
Freeze-Dried FruitInspired by Stella Parks' double strawberry cake, I took some freeze-dried blueberries and pulverized them in the food processor, then measured 1 ounce (28g) for a batch of pancake batter. The blueberry powder made the batter a lovely lavender color with little dark flecks of ground blueberry. If you’re a real fruit lover, you may want to add more, but I would say no more than 1.5 ounces per batch (when I used 2 ounces the pancakes browned too quickly). The color faded as it cooked, but the pancake had a pleasant fruity flavor reminiscent of a blueberry muffin.
Serious Eats / Kelli SolomonDutch Process CocoaI used Dutch process cocoa due to its neutral pH (the acidity of standard cocoa powder might react with the leavener in the pancake mix, so I decided not to introduce that variable). I used 1 ounce (28g) of the cocoa per batch of pancakes. It made a very chocolatey-looking batter, and a much darker and evenly browned pancake. The smell was delicious, reminding me of a rich chocolate cake baking in the oven. I liked the taste initially, but was then put off by a slightly bitter aftertaste. I repeated the test but added an extra teaspoon of sugar to balance the cocoa's bitterness and loved the results.
Malted Milk PowderAnother idea comes courtesy of Stella Parks, who called malted milk powder the "umami bomb for desserts." I really loved this addition. I started with one ounce of malted milk powder, but found upping it to two was even better. It made a thicker batter that smelled sweet and earthy. The pancake had a toasted, creamy flavor and tasted just as good as any restaurant pancakes I’ve ever had. (Malted milk powder is also a key ingredient in Genevieve Yam’s easy hot chocolate, by the way.)
Citrus ZestsNo need to limit yourself to lemon or orange zest; I had a clementine and a pomelo in my fridge, and each added an interesting floral flair to their respective pancake batters. However, be mindful of how much you add; a lightly packed teaspoon of zest from a lemon or orange should do the trick; add too much and the pancakes will grow bitter. If you choose a fruit known to be especially bitter, like grapefruit or pomelo, aim for less.
Spices & ExtractsIt goes without saying that your go-to baking spices like cinnamon and nutmeg are great additions to a pancake batter, but there's no harm in reaching for a pre-mixed blend or thinking beyond the basics. Cardamom or ginger make great flavorings, and some spices pair particularly well with fruit—coriander and blueberries enhance each other's natural flavors, and a few drops of rose water are a lovely match for strawberries.
Versatile extracts like vanilla or almond add a welcome flavor to pancakes but less common extracts can also be great (hazelnut and apricot extract were both tasty in my tests). Just be mindful of how much you use; start with 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon per batch before adding more.
Other Mix-Ins: Fruit, Nuts & ChocolateThe sky's the limit when it comes to mix-ins, but the key is ensuring that the pieces are small enough to be evenly dispersed throughout each pancake. Anything larger than a blueberry or a chocolate chip should be chopped or cut into small pieces.
Chewy dried fruit should be softened in a warm liquid, like juice, rum, or even just water, and then drained before being mixed in (I prefer to sprinkle mix-ins on each pancake once it's been ladled onto the griddle to control the exact quantity, but stirring them into the batter right before cooking will also work). Up to one cup total of fruit, nuts, or chocolate or a combination of any of the three per batch worked in my tests.
Neutral: Fine, but Not Really Worth the EffortChocolate MilkThe batter looked chocolatey and thick, with roughly the same brown color as the chocolate milk itself. As the pancake cooked, it emitted a chocolatey aroma, but did it taste chocolatey? Not really. It was sweeter, for sure, and a bit thicker, but the chocolate was faint. While this does create a tasty pancake, it's not worth wasting chocolate milk on it; if you want chocolatey pancakes, go with the Dutch process cocoa powder recommended above and/or stir in chocolate in chip or chopped form.
Extra-Virgin Olive OilThere was no visible difference between this pancake and the control made with vegetable oil. I could just barely taste the grassy flavor of my olive oil, but it wasn't super noticeable. More importantly, though, it's not an improvement, so I would only use olive oil if you don't have vegetable oil on hand.
ButterThe difference between this pancake and those made with vegetable oil was subtle, but perhaps there was a slightly more detectable sweetness. Is it worth taking the extra step of melting butter? Not really. Browned butter, however, adds a more robust, nutty flavor that is a bonus. Am I likely to brown butter just for this, though? No.
Also, keep in mind that you can cook the pancakes themselves in butter and serve them with pats of butter on top, so there's no shortage of opportunity to add buttery flavor. Of all of them, melting butter into the batter is arguably the least impactful.
Adding an Extra EggWhen I added an additional egg to the batter, the result was a slightly darker, denser batter. The pancake browned faster, had a creamier texture, and tasted a bit eggy. That didn't offend me, but it's not necessarily what I'm looking for in a pancake, and surely not worth the egg unless you're desperately trying to get rid of yours.
Whipping the Egg WhitesFor this batch, I separated the egg yolks from the egg whites, whipped the egg whites to stiff peaks, then folded the yolks and whipped whites into the batter separately. My hope was that this would result in something like a soufflé pancake but that didn't quite happen. While it made for a lighter, fluffier pancake, it was hardly lofty. This pancake was only slightly thicker and almost indistinguishable from the control. I don't think it's worth the additional effort for the minimal payoff, especially given the fact that you're probably reaching for the boxed mix to not have to do much work in the first place.
Baking PowderTo see what would happen if I supplemented the leaveners in the boxed mix, I added 1 teaspoon of baking powder per pancake batch. Once poured onto the griddle, the batter was a bit more bubbly, and the pancakes domed as they rose. The overall result was a slightly fluffier pancake that browned evenly; the baking powder did not have a noticeable impact on flavor.
I'd say you're free to enhance your mix's rising ability with a dose of baking powder, just be careful you don't add too much or it'll start to ruin the flavor.
Negative: Do Not Try This At HomeWater/SeltzerWhy did I test water when there was a very low probability it would be an improvement over pancakes made with milk? Mostly necessity. What if you don't have milk—can water work in a pinch? At least with Bisquick pancake mix, not really. The pancake didn't brown well (milk contains sugars and proteins that brown during cooking, water doesn't). I also found the pancake texture less fluffy, and the flavor was lacking.
Seltzer was just as problematic, though its carbonation aerated the pancakes more, leading to a fluffier, if still insipid, result.
Baking SodaDid this make for a fluffier pancake? Absolutely. But baking soda makes the pancakes unpleasantly salty and soapy in flavor. One extra teaspoon of baking soda per batch was too much, and even half a teaspoon of baking soda left a chemical aftertaste. By the time you reduce the baking soda to a level where you won't taste it, it won't make much of a difference anyway. Stick with baking powder from above if you want more leavened pancakes and avoid plain baking soda.
Courtesy of Xiengni Zhou; Getty ImagesA heaping plate with various shades of brown. Egg fried rice on one side, chow mein noodles with pale chicken on the other. Pieces of thickly battered, deep-fried chicken. Crispy spring rolls, triangles of toast dotted with sesame seeds. Smooth, viscous golden curry drizzled over everything. The temperature of the food? Unclear.
British Chinese takeaway has been sparking viral debate for the past year, but in the past month, that conversation has expanded into online buzz about American perceptions of British culture and the different takeout foods within the Chinese diaspora. At the root of it, Chinese British takeaway has inspired confusion, shock, and disgust from American TikTok users, who are accusing the cuisine of looking beige. It has also prompted a wider conversation about the takeaways’ inauthenticity and lack of appeal. “Convinced British food is what you eat when you go to hell,” someone comments under a video showcasing a Glasgow eatery’s “salt-and-pepper munchy box” of British chips, onion rings, chicken balls, and curry sauce.
Despite the outrage, British Chinese food is a staple of the British landscape, and has become ingrained in the country’s culinary makeup. But how did it go from humble mom-and-pop restaurants to a subject of persisting social media discourse?
“I found the whole thing quite funny actually,” says Angela Hui, journalist and author of the memoir Takeaway. “It's created a jumping pad for people to learn about Chinese food and culture in the UK.”
Courtesy of Xiengni ZhouChinese immigration in the United Kingdom dates back as far as the 17th century. One of the earliest influxes, though, happened in the late 19th century, when men, primarily from China’s Guangdong province and Hong Kong, arrived in port cities like Liverpool and London as a result of the British shipping company expansion, and is where the first Chinatowns were established. Many took over fish-and-chip shops, where battered fried foods, chips, and slathered sauces were popular among local palates. As Britain continued to expand its colonial reach in Malaysia, Singapore, and Hong Kong, more immigrants arrived in waves, particularly after the Second World War.
John Li, founder of London food stand Dumpling Shack, says his grandfather arrived in London with this postwar immigration wave. After working in a launderette and a restaurant at the London docks, he saved enough money to open his own takeaway. “Chinese eating houses were set up to feed their community,” says Li. “Like many other operators, he learned to develop a menu that catered to a wider audience. It incorporated items like fish and chips, pineapple and gammon, chow mein, and fried rice.” Hui notes it’s also why many eateries serve dishes similar to those sold at fish-and-chip shops, such as chicken balls, curry sauce, sausages, and meat pies.
Ingredient scarcity also played a role, she says, as fresh produce wasn’t as readily available as it is now. According to Hui, many relied on canned goods like bamboo shoots and water chestnuts, as well as hardier vegetables like green peppers and onions. Many takeaway owners also grew bean sprouts from mung beans at home.
Courtesy of Xiengni ZhouContent creator Xiengni Zhou, whose mother Jolene Yu runs Sheffield takeaway Wok Inn, posted their salt-and-pepper box recipe on TikTok in January to raise awareness of the history behind the cuisine and the genesis of the dish. Her video was met with both rudeness and curiosity from users on the app. “It was like a whole new world for them,” she says.
Still, while British Chinese food has been around for centuries, it’s become the perfect breeding ground for TikTok discourse as people have increasingly posted about it. The algorithm loves hyperbole, and the shocking visuals of curry sauce-drowned plates are just enough to encourage users to engage with the content for an entire year, inspiring comments upon comments—and people around the world, intrigued by the cuisine, are even trekking to Britain to taste it for themselves.
But as more people share how they feel about British Chinese food, the conversation has become broader, inspiring users to dive into the complicated history of the cuisine and how it has shaped the lives of immigrants in the United Kingdom today. Children of British takeaway owners have chimed in with their perspectives; many owners of these establishments continue to face systemic racism and xenophobia throughout the country. Zhou feels that the ignorance has continued to perpetuate in the current online reaction to British Chinese food even now, with people sharing their judgmental and dismissive ideas of the food. But it’s nothing new.
Courtesy of Xiengni ZhouHui recalls her earliest childhood memories of her parents’ takeaway being vandalized, facing racist remarks from customers, and being bullied at school if she smelled of fryer oil and sweet-and-sour sauce. She feels many of the TikTok comments are also invalidating to the community of Chinese families making British Chinese cuisine.
“Many were making sweeping statements that undermine a whole diasporic community and the resilience of Chinese families who continue to run these businesses, regardless of whether they think it tastes or looks good,” she says of the TikTok comments.
Much of the backlash online is centered around the “authenticity” of British Chinese cuisine. The food on FYPs seemingly contrasts with individuals’ understanding of what Chinese food is and often stems from other users of Chinese heritage online who call British Chinese food contrived, as seen by many of the videos posted reacting to the food. But both Li and Hui disparage the term.
Courtesy of Xiengni Zhou"Authenticity is like nails on a chalkboard to me,” says Li. “[British Chinese food] illustrates the entrepreneurial and resilient nature of immigrants.” Once alien to the masses, the cuisine is now one of the most popular in the country. Curtis Chin, author of Everything I Learned, I Learned in a Chinese Restaurant, says it’s not the first time the authenticity debate has arisen. Like their British counterparts, Chinese restaurant families in America face similar questions.
It’s difficult to define what “authentic” Chinese food is, though. Throughout history, the cuisine has continuously adapted in response to globalization, imperialism, and the need for survival. Dishes like egg tarts, Hong Kong French toast, and bubble tea—dishes now intricately associated with Chinese cuisine—have roots in Western imperialism, with influences from British and Portuguese trade.
You can see this adaptability, innovation, and perseverance in Chinese takeaways, and it’s not often talked about. “Many have misconceptions that the food is dirty or looked down upon, but Chinese takeaway families used whatever ingredients were available to them at the time and tried new things,” says Hui. “Through that, a new cuisine emerged.”
Yu’s salt-and-pepper box consists of wok-fried chicken and chips with red onion, garlic, Sichuan peppercorns, Chinese five spice, ground cumin, and MSG, among other ingredients (Li says every restaurant has their own take on the famous salt-and-pepper chips, but his family used Sichuan peppercorn, salt, white pepper, five spice, a “touch” of sugar, and MSG). The dish originated in northern England and Scotland within the enclaves of takeaways, but has since disseminated to a few southern spots, too. It’s among one of the best-selling items at Wok Inn. The virality and interest in exploring pan-Asian cuisine has inspired Yu to add more cuisines to the menu, like Singaporean vermicelli noodles and Korean-inspired dishes.
Courtesy of Xiengni ZhouLi’s ideal plate involves sesame prawn toast (which he calls the “king of starters”) paired with Singapore fried rice, kung po chili chicken (which he describes as a spicy version of sweet-and-sour chicken), and a side of prawn crackers. Hui, on the other hand, likes a bit of everything: the base of the plate split half into chips, half egg fried rice, chicken curry, the batter-encased chicken balls, and spring rolls. For Zhou, it’s egg fried rice and chicken chow mein, salt-and-pepper chips or spare ribs, sweet-and-sour chicken balls, curry sauce, and a side of spring rolls.
“British people love their fried stuff,” says Hui. “Beige with a side of beige. I think that's what is so quintessential about British Chinese takeaway.” It's meant to be crispy deep-fried, and provide a sense of familiarity, nutritional information be damned. And while the shock online continues, the controversy itself is as quintessential to the nature of social media as chips are to the British plate.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishEid al-Fitr marks the end of the holy month of Ramadan, and it's a time of festivity and celebration for Muslims around the globe. While my own celebrations have always looked small, normally just with immediate family and occasionally some family friends, it's common for these gatherings to involve a large group of people. My own family in the Middle East spends the day of Eid going from house to house, visiting relatives and neighbors and indulging in a elaborate spread of traditional foods. While Eid looks different around the world, each culture celebrating with their own customs, food is always the centerpiece. So whether you're preparing a main dish for a small get-together or looking for sweet treat to bring to a larger celebration, you're sure to find something to please with these Eid recipes.
MainsShurabet el Eid (Holiday Soup)Jillian AtkinsonTurn simple chicken broth into a full meal with the addition of white rice and easy meatballs.
Lamb Biryani With Saffron, Yogurt, and Caramelized OnionsSerious Eats / Qi AiBiryani is a celebration of aroma, color, and flavor, with perfectly cooked, fluffy grains of scented basmati rice and tender chunks of spiced lamb.
Vegetable BiryaniSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezA celebratory meal of aromatic and spiced rice and tender braised vegetables.
Dawali (Palestinian Stuffed Grape Leaves)Serious Eats / Mai KakishNo celebratory table is complete without a pot of stuffed grape leaves, often lined at the bottom with lamb ribs.
Hashweh (Palestinian Spiced Rice and Meat)Serious Eats / Mai KakishSpices bloomed in ghee add complexity to this celebratory Palestinian dish.
North African Tuna and Rice SaladJillian AtkinsonPreserved lemons and tuna transform leftover white rice into the perfect salad meal.
DessertsPistachio BaklavaSerious Eats / Mai KakishWith layers of buttery phyllo dough and nuts drenched in simple syrup or honey, homemade baklava—or bak-la-wa in Arabic—is the ultimate sweet treat.
Basbousa Bel Ashta (Semolina Cake With Ashta Cream Filling)Serious Eats / Fred HardyThis version of basbousa is filled with a rich clotted cream and drenched in a rose-scented syrup.
Kanafeh (Middle Eastern Cheese and Phyllo Dessert)Vicky WasikFilled with salty cheese and drenched in a floral syrup, kanafeh—a phyllo dessert found throughout the Middle East—is a study in contrasts.
Sholeh-Zard (Persian Saffron Rice Pudding)Serious Eats / Nader MehravariThis rich and creamy rice pudding is subtly flavored with saffron and rosewater then finished with decorations fit for royalty.
Halva With Spice Dried Fruit and NutsVicky WasikThis classic Indian dessert made from semolina comes together in minutes.
Rasgulla (Indian Milk Dumplings in Sweet Syrup)Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaThese cardamom-scented milk-based sweets are popular in sweet shops all over India—and are surprisingly easy to make at home.
Gulab JamunNik SharmaFor this classic dessert, fried dough balls made from milk solids and semolina are soaked in a syrup flavored with cardamom, rose water, saffron, and cloves.
Serious Eats / Casey Barber“Wait… there’s no chicken in this at all?”
My husband’s confusion as he was served a platter of city chicken was understandable. After all, the dish has always been intentionally deceptive, intended as a way for budget-minded home cooks to mimic the taste and texture of chicken drumsticks.
If it sounds weird to try to fake chicken drumsticks when they’re so readily available and relatively inexpensive for home cooks, it helps a little to know the background of this homespun recipe. City chicken was born of frugality in the early 20th century and exploded in regional popularity during the Great Depression of the 1930s, when pork and veal prices were much lower than that of chicken.
Those who grew up in the Rust Belt encircling the Great Lakes—anywhere from Indiana to Ohio to western New York—are likely familiar with this somewhat unusual but utterly delicious comfort food. I’m from western Pennsylvania and (like most yinzers) feel like city chicken is a distinctively Pittsburgh dish, though we really can’t lay full claim to it.
So what iscity chicken? This 1932 Pittsburgh Post-Gazette newspaper ad spells it all out: “Tender, choice pieces of fresh veal and pork are cut into neat squares and alternated on skewers… four or five to the skewer. All you do, then, is dip the meat in egg and bread crumbs, brown quickly, add water, cover pan and simmer until tender and juicy.” You'll still find city chicken fitting this simple description being turned out in home kitchens across the Rust Belt today, served on its own or dressed up with a quick pan gravy, as in the recipe I'm sharing here.
A dish consisting of pork and veal in place of chicken might seem unbelievable considering the current price per pound of veal. But when I called Chuck Conzatti, second-generation owner of Conzatti’s Italian Market in Johnstown, PA to get some background on the dish, he explained why veal used to be so cheap. Dairy farmers didn’t want to spend valuable money and time raising male calves that wouldn’t produce milk and therefore revenue. “They didn’t have any need for them, so they just got rid of them,” he said, sending the calves off to auction to be slaughtered. (While male calves are still unwanted by most dairy farmers, the market for veal is not as large today as it once was and the dairy industry as a whole is dealing with a different consumer landscape now, so—long story short—veal is no longer a cheap surplus meat and is now a pricy specialty meat. ) Pork was likewise inexpensive because it was cheaper to raise pigs and a more efficient revenue stream when using all parts of the animal.
Breaded, browned, and baked, these skewers of veal and/or pork were meant to be a filling meal that cleverly used excess meat scraps. But city chicken has endured, despite the fact that you can now get a package of chicken drumsticks for far less than you’d find veal and even pork at most grocery stores. You’ll still find prepackaged city chicken skewers and DIY city chicken “kits” in meat departments throughout the Pittsburgh area that use pork and veal cubes.
Serious Eats / Casey BarberTips for City Chicken That’s Tender, Juicy, and Perfectly CookedIf you grew up eating city chicken, you’ll notice the method that follows is slightly different than the one probably used by your grandparents. One tweak was mostly about cost, but the purpose of my most significant adjustments was to make sure that pork tasted as juicy and tender as possible in the finished dish. Here’s how and why I switched a few things up to bring city chicken into the new century.
Nix Veal in Favor of All Pork: First, I ditched the veal. Unless you really, truly love the taste of veal (and I decidedly don’t), you’ll be fine using boneless pork loin as the only meat in this recipe, and your grocery budget will thank you. It’s less expensive than a whole pork tenderloin or pre-sliced chops, and will yield a more tender result than pork shoulder with this cooking method. However, if you do love veal and want to use it here, I won’t stop you! If you choose to use veal, substitute an equal amount of veal by weight for the boneless pork loin (or use half veal, half pork) and follow the recipe as written.
Add a Dry Brine: Most historical city chicken recipes didn’t suggest marinating or brining the meat to add flavor, apart from a 1947 Pittsburgh Press newspaper article that recommended sprinkling the skewers with a few tablespoons of French dressing. I, uh, did not do that.
But I did take a page from the Serious Eats playbook and dry brined my pork cubes for 45 minutes, just until the salt was absorbed into the meat. This was the most effective way to season each piece and ensure that the pork stayed juicy and tender after baking. I found it had a much better end result than wet brining or buttermilk brining, which had negligible effects in my tests. This may be surprising, especially since buttermilk is a known flavor enhancer and tenderizer, but I suspect that the effect of cooking the pork for 90 minutes—more on that initial cook time in my tests below—negated any juiciness that would have come from these methods.
Don’t Cook It to Death: The biggest change I made to the traditional city chicken recipe was in the cooking time. Every city chicken recipe I came across called for the browned skewers to be oven-baked for at least 45 minutes or more, even up to two hours in one instance,“until meat is chicken-tender.”
Even on the low end of that spectrum, in my multiple tests the pork came out of the oven overcooked and tough—way beyond the point of chicken-tenderness. So after browning my skewers to crisp up the breaded exterior, I cut the baking time significantly. There’s no need for a long stint in the oven, especially when you’re using a lean cut of pork like boneless loin. My recipe calls for cooking the pork until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the cubes registers 135°F and then letting it rest until the pork reaches 145°F. This shouldn’t take more than about 10 minutes in the oven.
Skirt the Potential Sogginess: Many historical city chicken recipes also called for adding a few tablespoons of water or broth to the casserole in which the skewers were baked and covering the dish with foil during the baking process. In theory, this was intended to add moisture to the meat, but in practice, it backfired. Adding water and covering the skewers while baking softens the crisp breading, and doesn’t do anything to restore moisture to meat that’s overcooked.
The solution is simple: With a quick bake time, the problem of overcooked meat is avoidable and there’s no need to steam the meat and sog things up. The breading remains crunchy and there’s just enough time to make a simple pan gravy to serve with the city chicken.
Make a Quick Pan Gravy: Many city chicken aficionados serve their skewers with a pan gravy made from the drippings in the casserole, which I suspect was originally a way to try to salvage the overcooked meat. Here, I’m making it because a gravy made from a tasty pan fond makes everything better. I first brown the skewers in a skillet, then transfer them to a baking sheet to finish in the oven. While the pork skewers cook, I use some of the oil from frying the skewers to sautée a handful of slivered onions. It’s a simple way to boost the flavor of the gravy. The onions impart a little sweet caramelization and melt into the gravy as it simmers. It’s a homespun touch that really seals the deal.
The nebby yinzers (that’s a term for a nosy Pittsburgher, if yinz don’t know) might come after me for switching up this classic recipe, but I’m not scared. Once they see how much more juicy and flavorful this old-school recipe can be, they’ll be calling me a hometown hero. Serve with mashed potatoes or, for a true Rust Belt touch, pierogies.
Remove fat cap from pork loin as well as any connective tissue or silverskin, then cut into approximate 1- to 1 1/4-inch cubes.
Serious Eats / Casey BarberSet a wire rack inside a rimmed baking sheet and place the pork cubes on the rack. Sprinkle salt (about 1 tablespoon) all over pork, turning cubes to ensure even coating. Let rest at room temperature or in the refrigerator until the surface moisture has dried, about 45 minutes.
Serious Eats / Casey BarberPreheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Thread pork onto each skewer (you should be able to fit 5 to 6 pieces on each). Set up a breading station with 3 wide, shallow bowls or 1/8 sheet pans. Add 1/2 cup flour (2 ounces; 60g) to the first bowl or pan; the beaten eggs to the second; and the bread crumbs to the third.
Serious Eats / Casey BarberWorking with one skewer at a time, dredge each skewer in flour, turning on all sides and spooning flour on top to make sure all crevices are coated. Gently shake skewer to remove excess flour, then coat thoroughly in egg wash. Roll in bread crumbs, again using a spoon or fingers as needed to cover evenly. Place the breaded skewers on a clean plate or baking sheet.
Serious Eats / Casey BarberLine a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or foil. In a 12-inch cast iron or stainless-steel skillet, heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add 4 skewers to the pan, and cook, turning occasionally, until breading is toasted and brown, about 2 minutes per side. Using tongs, transfer skewers to prepared baking sheet. Add more oil to skillet if needed, then repeat with remaining skewers.
Serious Eats / Casey BarberTransfer skewers to oven and cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted into center of pork registers 135°F (57°C), 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from oven and let rest on the baking pan at least 5 minutes (pork should reach 145°F in this time).
Serious Eats / Casey BarberWhile city chicken bakes, make pan gravy: Pour off all but 3 tablespoons oil from skillet, return to medium heat, add onions, and season with salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until onions are softened and starting to turn translucent, about 6 minutes. Whisk in remaining 2 tablespoons flour (1/2 ounce; 15g) and cook, whisking constantly, until the roux is just beginning to turn golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk in broth, scraping the skillet bottom to dissolve browned bits. Bring to a simmer and cook, whisking occasionally, until thickened, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Serious Eats / Casey BarberTo serve, drizzle city chicken skewers with gravy or serve on the side.
Serious Eats / Casey BarberUse whatever seasoned bread crumbs you prefer. Wegmans and 4C are two brands I like. Bread crumbs labeled as “seasoned” or Italian-style bread crumbs both work well. If using plain homemade or store-bought bread crumbs, season 1 cup plain bread crumbs with 1 tablespoon finely grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese and 1 tablespoon Italian herb blend or ½ teaspoon each garlic powder, onion powder, dried oregano, and dried parsley.
Special EquipmentWire rack, rimmed baking sheets, eight 6-inch wooden skewers, parchment paper or foil, 12-inch cast iron or stainless-steel skillet, parchment paper or foil, instant-read thermometer.
NotesUse whatever seasoned bread crumbs you prefer. Wegmans and 4C are two brands I like. Bread crumbs labeled as “seasoned” or Italian-style bread crumbs both work well. If using plain homemade or store-bought bread crumbs, season 1 cup plain bread crumbs with 1 tablespoon finely grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese and 1 tablespoon Italian herb blend or ½ teaspoon each garlic powder, onion powder, dried oregano, and dried parsley.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziGive me a baguette, focaccia, boule, or brioche. I’m not picky about the size and shape—nothing beats a fresh loaf of bread.
The operative word here is fresh. If it’s not stored properly, it only takes a day or two for a beautiful bakery ciabatta to enter crouton territory. Keeping bread in good condition is all about controlling airflow. Out in the open, bread goes stale quickly. On the other hand, it’s vulnerable to growing anaerobic mold if it’s completely sealed off from oxygen.
Bread boxes are an aesthetically pleasing storage option designed to extend the life of loaves. They allow a small amount of airflow—just enough to lock in moisture while discouraging mold growth. I put 11 bread boxes, ranging from $15 to $200 to the test to see just how well they accomplish this task.
The Winners, at a GlanceThis bread box is constructed from high-quality materials. Olivewood is both beautiful and practical—it’s naturally hard and ding-resistant. This model would look stunning on any countertop. Plus, you’ll never forget if you have bread thanks to the transparent cover.
This is a simple, no-frills bread box. The frosted plexiglass lid resits smudge marks and still allows you to see what’s inside.
If sandwiches are the bread and butter of your household, this ultra-simple box is all you need. I loved its space-saving design. Once it’s sealed, it’s easy to pick up this lightweight box and tuck it away for easy storage.
The TestsSerious Eats / Madeline Muzzi Capacity Test: I placed three types of loaves (a boule, sliced sandwich bread, and a round sourdough) in each bread box one at a time. I noted how easy it was to place and access the bread and how well the boxes could accommodate different shapes. * Storage Test: I placed a loaf of bagged sandwich bread in each box and left it for two weeks, periodically checking for mold. For a point of comparison, I also left one loaf on the counter. * Durability Test: To evaluate durability I gave each bread box a solid smack with a metal spoon, taking note of any dents or scratches. * Cleanup Test:* After testing, I cleaned each bread box according to the manufacturer's instructions. I took note of any difficult or smudge-prone materials.
What We LearnedTransparent Was BestSerious Eats / Madeline MuzziAs the saying goes; out of sight, out of mind. But I like to keep my eyes on my bread. My favorite bread boxes had transparent or semi-transparent covers. A window makes it easy to tell if you’re running out of bread or if your current loaf is past its prime. The Williams Sonoma Olivewood Bread Box has a completely clear acrylic cover—you’ll always know exactly what's inside. The Buddeez Bread Buddy Bread Box, Oggi Stainless Steel Roll Top Bread Box, and ETMI Bamboo Bread Box feature semi-transparent surfaces. Although you can’t see their contents in crystal clear focus, it is still easy to tell if they are full or empty. Other models were made of opaque materials like stainless steel, aluminum, or bamboo. The Culinary Couture Extra Large Bread Box was a literal black box. Solid walls increase the chance you’ll forget what’s on hand and let a stray slice of bread grow old for weeks.
Bigger Wasn’t Always Better Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziOf the 11 bread boxes I tested, 10 were quite large and designed to sit on the countertop. The exception was the Buddeez Bread Buddy Bread Box, which could be stored on the counter, on top of the fridge, or tucked into a cabinet thanks to its lightweight design and tight closure. Counterspace is a precious resource in my kitchen, and several models took up more than their fair share of room. At 18.3 inches, the Brabantia Roll-Top Bread Box was the longest. The Yamazaki was the largest overall, measuring 17 inches long and 14 inches deep. I found that this extra space simply wasn’t necessary. Even much smaller models, like the 15- x 9-inch Williams Sonoma, could hold full-sized loaves of all shapes (the only exception is for the Buddeez, which is specifically designed for sandwich bread). A boule looked positively lonely inside of the massive Yamazaki. Unless you’re storing multiple loaves at a time, extra-large bread boxes just take up space.
A Bread Box Should Open at the FrontSerious Eats / Madeline MuzziThere’s more than one way to open a bread box. The Brabantia, Oggi, home-it, RoyalHouse, and Williams Sonoma models feature roll-top closures that open at the front like a garage. The Yamazaki and ETMI models use pull-down doors like a mailbox does. Other models—like the Joseph Joseph, Guzzini, and Culinary Couture—boxes have lids. The smooth, handle-free Guzzini lid was difficult to set in place, while the Culinary Couture model was hinged (like a treasure chest), which made it hard to open when flat against a wall.
I found models that opened from the front were more convenient. With a roll-top or mailbox-style door, you could store a few items on top of the box and access bread without removing them.
Materials Made a Difference In terms of preventing mold, all of these boxes were effective. Although wood, plastic, and aluminum all did a good job preserving bread, aluminum or steel boxes were significantly harder to clean and less durable. The shiny steel Home-it collected smudges and fingerprints each time I used it. Thin metal boxes also proved vulnerable to denting. After a solid smack with a spoon the Culinary Couture, Brabantia, and Home-it all sustained dents. The Oggi fared better than its fellow metal models—this product is constructed from a stainless steel base and a frosted plastic cover. The cover is the most frequently touched portion, and the Oggi’s material was both smudge- and dent-resistant.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Bread Box Serious Eats / Madeline Muzzi / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmLook for a transparent, durable bread box that opens from the front. Evaluate how much bread you eat and choose a model that’s just large enough to accommodate your needs.
Our Favorite Bread BoxesWhat we liked: The Williams Sonoma bread box is absolutely beautiful—a huge bonus for any countertop item. In addition to its striking grain pattern, olivewood is naturally durable. This box will only improve with age. I loved the clear door, which opened smoothly and proudly displayed the bread inside.
What we didn’t like: This was by far the most expensive bread box on the list—at $200, it’s a significant investment. Natural wood also requires slightly more maintenance than plastic or steel. The manufacturer suggests periodically conditioning the wood with food-safe mineral oil.
Key Specs Materials: Olivewood, acrylic * Dimensions: 15 x 9 1/2 x 7 1/2 inches * Care instructions:* Wipe clean, condition wood with mineral oil
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziWhat we liked: This model features an easy-to-use roll-top lid with a semi-transparent covering. The frosted plexiglass covering is translucent enough to see the bread inside. This medium-sized model is spacious and can hold a variety of bread without hogging too much counter space.
What we didn’t like: Compared to the Williams Sonoma model, this box felt slightly thinner and flimsier.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel, plexiglass * Dimensions: 14.88 x 10.25 x 7.38 inches * Care instructions:* Hand-wash
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziWhat we liked: This box offers an extremely practical solution for storing sliced sandwich bread. The container is small, light, and seals tightly. Once it’s closed it’s easy to pick up the entire container. If you don’t have counter space, this could be stored on a shelf or on top of the fridge.
What we didn’t like: The Buddeez bread box is specifically designed for sliced sandwich bread. It’s not large enough to store artisanal loaves. It's also not the prettiest sight to see.
Key Specs Materials: BPA-free plastic * Dimensions: 5 x 5 x 13.5 inches * Care instructions:* Hand-wash only
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe Competition* Brabantia Roll-Top Bread Box: This is a simple breadbox with a smooth roll-top door. Unfortunately, its steel construction hides bread from view, making it easy to forget what’s in stock. * Yamazaki Home Bread Box: I liked this model’s smudge-resistant white stainless steel construction. This was the largest box that I tested. Unless you’re eating several loaves of bread each week, there’s no need to dedicate this much space to storage. * Joseph Joseph Bread Box with Removable Bamboo Cutting Board: Cheap plastic construction and opaque walls knocked this bread box out of the running. * Culinary Couture Extra Large Bread Box: The Culinary Couture bread box felt needlessly large. This model opens from the top—if you place any items on top of the box, you’ll need to remove them each time you open it. * RoyalHouse Premium Bamboo Bread Box: Assembling this model was so irritating that I eventually got out a power drill. * ETMI Bamboo Bread Box: I liked this model’s semi-transparent door, but it lost points because the design felt sloppy. After assembly, the side walls weren’t completely flush with the top of the box, leaving a useless raised border. * Home-it Stainless Steel Bread Box: This shiny steel bread box dented and smudged easily. * Guzzini Recycled Tierra Bread Box: It was difficult to lift and replace this box’s smooth, handle-free lid.
FAQsDoes a bread box keep bread fresh?Bread boxes control airflow to keep bread fresh. Bread can become stale or grow mold as it ages. If a loaf is left on the countertop it will be exposed to too much air and dry out quickly. If, however, it’s completely sealed off in a plastic bag anaerobic mold can thrive. Bread boxes create a mostly sealed environment that prolongs shelf life.
Is a wooden or metal bread box better?Wooden bread boxes may be able to regulate humidity more effectively than their metal counterparts. However, I did not observe significant storage performance differences between wood and metal boxes during testing. In general, I preferred wood over metal bread boxes because many thin steel models dented easily.
Are bread boxes worth it?Whether or not you need a bread box depends on how much bread you consume and how to prepare it. Bread boxes help prolong shelf life, but they also take up a considerable amount of counter space. They are a good solution for households that enjoy fresh bread several times a week. If you go through loaves slowly or generally prefer toast, the freezer may be a better choice.
What type of bread box works best?The most important feature of a bread box is transparency. Wood, metal, and plastic boxes can all store bread well, but if you can’t see what you have in stock, you’re more likely to forget about it.
Why We’re the Experts* Madeline Muzzi is a food writer and avid cook with over five years of product testing experience. * Madeline is a carb snob, with high standards for bread texture and quality and has eaten upwards of 2,000 sandwiches in her lifetime. * She’s written extensively about food science, which informed her evaluation of these products. * For this review, Madeline tested 11 bread boxes, evaluating their capacity, ease of use, and more.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezListen. I know you didn't drive all the way to Buffalo, New York, to eat buffalo wings (at least not this time around). But I do know that now that you're (1) in Buffalo, New York and (2) on a high waiting for, having witnessed, or having just seen a total freaking solar eclipse, you're going to want to celebrate. And once you've eaten the world's best buffalo wings, you're never going to get them out of your brain.
All this to say: Enjoy your path of totality fun times. Also, enjoy some of these wild and fantastic dishes while you're there—wherever that might be. And when you get home and are craving a meal from one of the coolest trips of your life, we've got the best possible versions of those recipes.
Happy 2024 eclipse! Happy eating! We're all tiny specks of nonsense on a floating blue marble, etc., etc.
Buffalo Chicken SaladSerious Eats / Robby LozanoAbout as filling and delicious a salad you're ever going to eat.
Air-Fryer Buffalo WingsSerious Eats / Jen CauseyCrunchy, meaty, satisfying—perfect for post-eclipse and next weekend's game.
ScrappleSerious Eats / Fred HardyOnce you scrapple properly, there's no coming back.
Pennsylvania Dutch Apple PieSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezHearty layers of buttery sweetness.
Cincinnati ChiliSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezOne of our all-time reader favorites.
Texas-Style Beef Short Ribs RecipeJoshua BouselYou're in Texas. This is how you should be partying.
Texas Sheet Cake RecipeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikYou're in Texas. This is how you should be after-partying.
Pastel de Atún (Mexican Tuna Cake)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCelebrate properly across Mazatlán.
Mazatlán Ceviche de Sierra (Sinaloan Mackerel Ceviche)Serious Eats / Lorena MassoTart, refreshing, and slightly sweet fresh, this ceviche will absolutely be the move after the darkness.
Classic New England Lobster RollsSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezSelf-explanatory, yeah?
Oklahoma-Style Onion Burgers RecipeAndrew JanjigianA slider to ruin all future sliders.
Hoosier Cream PieAlexandra PenfoldA Midwestern rite of passage.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteAs an Egyptian immigrant in the United States, nothing matches the joy of making molokhia soup in my kitchen and sharing its story with my kids. Molokhia is an iconic Egyptian soup made of jute mallow leaves from which the dish gets its name. Those leaves are cooked in a rich chicken broth and flavored with tasha, a fragrant garlic-coriander paste fried in ghee, until velvety. It's a recipe that’s particularly nostalgic to me. Every year, towards the end of the last spring frost, I rush to order jute mallow seeds online. When they arrive, I plant them in the raised beds in my sunny backyard in Virginia and eagerly anticipate harvesting them to make molokhia soup, a comforting dish that takes me back to afternoons in my grandma’s kitchen.
I was born in buzzing Cairo and grew up in Alexandria, a serene Egyptian city on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea where no weekend meal or feast was complete without molokhia soup. I have many warm memories of long, leisurely meals and large gatherings where my family and I enjoyed molokhia soup together.
Today, most people prepare the soup with frozen molokhia that comes cleaned and chopped, but my grandmother Aida always used fresh, as I do today. I remember her working for hours as she patiently snipped fresh leaves, discarding the muddy stalks and rinsing off any clinging dirt under running water. Then, she’d spread the wet leaves out in one layer to air dry under the warmth of the sun.
I vividly recall my grandma facing her kitchen counter, hunched over as if preparing for battle. Her palms firmly gripping the two wooden handles of the mezzaluna, she’d tirelessly rock the blade back and forth, reducing a mountain of molokhia leaves to a neat pile of finely shredded greens.
Without missing a beat, she would then proceed to use one hand to add the minced leaves to the simmering broth while her other hand focused on frying the tasha. Then it was time for the funniest part of the whole tradition: My grandma would dramatically gasp while adding the tasha to the simmering soup, a ritual called shahka in Arabic.
Legend has it that a successful molokhia soup is only possible if the cook gasps at the top of their lungs when they add the tasha. It’s an Egyptian tradition that has been passed on from one generation to the next, and one I will happily pass down to my kids.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteThe Origins of MolokhiaFor years, the most widespread narrative has been that molokhia soup means royal in hieroglyphics (ancient Egyptian language), as molokhia soup was served only to pharaohs because it was so nutritious. That narrative was challenged by the prominent Egyptian food historian Mennat-Allah El Dorry, who confirmed that this dominant story lacks historical evidence.
“The earliest certain record of it is from the eleventh century CE, when the Shiite Fatimid Caliph al-Ḥakim bi-Amrillah banned Egyptians from eating it likely because it was the favorite of Sunni Caliph Muawiya (7th century CE),” Dr. El Dorry told me in an interview. “Since then, it has appeared in a variety of sources. However, a possible mention in a sixth-century CE Alexandrian text also exists: the Vegetable Zodiac, which features crops that are harvested during each month and specifies a certain crop called malachai, for the November/December slot."
How to Make MolokhiaNowadays, anyone from any cultural background can make molokhia soup without breaking a sweat like grandma Aida did, thanks to the fact that frozen and pre-minced molokhia is available in Middle Eastern stores across the globe. Even if you do decide to make molokhia with fresh leaves, the blender does a neater, faster job than the traditional mezzaluna, and reduces the active cooking time to less than an hour.
Serious Eats / Kevin White
To make molokhia soup, you’ll cook the minced leaves in chicken broth and leave it to gently simmer until it bubbles on the edges and becomes fragrant. While the soup cooks, you’ll make the tasha by pounding together the minced garlic, toasted coriander seeds, and a pinch of salt, then frying it in ghee. It’s essential to make sure the paste is ready to incorporate into the soup at the right time—when the paste becomes fragrant, crisp, and orange-hued, you’ll add it to the soup to give it additional depth of flavor. And that’s all there is to it!
To gild the lily, I garnish my molokhia soup with pickled red onions. About an hour before I serve the molokhia, I combine thinly sliced red onions, lime juice, and distilled white vinegar in a jar. The pickled red onions add a vivid pop of color to the soup, and lend satisfying acidity.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteTips for SuccessThe ideal molokhia soup should be a vivid green, with a significant body that is neither too thick nor too watery. Molokhia should be unapologetically slimy—yes, “slimy” is a good thing with molokhia—with an unmistakable garlicky scent and flavor laced with toasted coriander’s floral notes. The worst case scenario is sakta, which means failed in Arabic, or when the soup splits.
This happens when the minced leaves sink to the bottom of the pan while the broth remains floating on top. The following tips will prevent that from happening:
- Toast the coriander seeds in a dry skillet on the stove top to draw out the spice’s flavorful oils.
- Use the right ratio of broth—2 1/2 cups of broth to 400 grams of frozen molokhia. Any more broth, and the leaves will sink to the bottom of the broth rather than being incorporated into it.
- Don’t cover the molokhia pot at any point as the color will lose its vibrancy.
- Don’t overcook the garlic in the ghee. Remove it from the heat once the garlic-coriander paste becomes fragrant—otherwise the soup will taste like burnt garlic.
- Temper the molokhia soup. A large difference in temperature can cause the soup to split; adding the frozen molokhia to a broth that’s warm but not too hot reduces the risk of the soup separating.
- Simmer—but don’t boil!—the soup. Boiling can result in a lumpy soup and dull its vivid green color.
- The slippery texture of the leaves is a signature part of molokhia—but if you’d prefer a soup that’s less slimy, you can add a grated tomato. The acidity in the tomato helps to break up the slimy texture of the greens.
Variations of MolokhiaMolokhia is a dish that is more or less cooked the same way across Egypt. Some Egyptian families of Lebanese origin, however, use a combination of molokhia leaves and fresh minced cilantro in the soup—the cilantro adds freshness and balances the earthiness of the molokhia leaves. The broth they use might differ, too. They may use an austere vegetable broth, while others opt for a hearty beef or duck broth. Another alternative to fresh molokhia soup is shalawlaw, a vegan molokhia soup made with dehydrated jute mallow leaves that is popular in south and upper Egypt.
How to Serve MolokhiaTraditionally, molokhia soup is served hot with traditional Egyptian vermicelli rice or ruz moa’mar (baked rice), and/or bread (either pita or an Egyptian kind of bread that’s similar to pita but thinner and made with whole wheat). To round out the meal, I like to serve molokhia with kabab halla (Egyptian braised beef with onions).
As an immigrant family, making molokhia has become a fun weekend ritual that brings my family together. Practice makes perfect, and making molokhia on a weekly basis has definitely elevated my molokhia skills. A few years ago, my late father visited me for the first time in Virgina to see my newborn. He tried my molokhia and, with a big smile on his face, he whispered: “Your molokhia is even better than your mom’s.”
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteFor the Pickled Onions: In a medium bowl, pour distilled white vinegar and lemon juice over thinly sliced onions. Set aside for at least an hour.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteFor the Molokhia: In a 4-quart Dutch oven, heat chicken stock over low heat until just beginning to bubble, about 3 minutes, then reduce heat. Add thawed molokhia to warm broth, whisking until fully incorporated. Add cilantro, if using, and garlic, whisking well to incorporate. Bring molokhia to a gentle simmer, uncovered, over low heat and cook until edges begin to bubble, 5 to 7 minutes. (Be careful not to let the soup boil.) If soup is too thick for your liking, add 1/2 cup chicken stock. If you prefer your molokhia soup less slimy, add the grated tomato.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteFor the Tasha: While the soup is cooking, in a mortar and pestle, pound garlic, coriander, and salt until smooth. In a small nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons ghee over medium heat until shimmering. Add garlic and coriander paste and cook, stirring constantly to prevent burning, until fragrant and garlic is crispy and golden, about 1 1/2 minutes. Immediately add tasha to hot molokhia. (To catch any remaining bits of garlic and coriander, add a ladle of soup to the skillet, swirl, then add liquid back to the soup pot.) Remove from heat and season to taste.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteServe molokhia in individual soup bowls and garnish with pickled red onions with hot pita bread, vermicelli rice, roast chicken, and/or kabab halla, if desired.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteSpecial Equipment4-quart Dutch oven, mortar and pestle, whisk, nonstick skillet
NotesFrozen minced molokhia can be found at Middle Eastern grocery stores.
If you are using fresh or frozen whole molokhia leaves, use a blender, immersion blender, or food processor to blend leaves (thawed first, if frozen) with 1 cup (240ml) warm broth until smooth. Add blended molokhia to the rest of the warm broth and proceed with recipe.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe garlic and coriander paste can be frozen in an ice cube tray (top each cube with some olive oil), transferred to an airtight container or freezer bag, and stored in the freezer for up to 3 months. Use a cube or two each time you make molokhia soup.
The pickled onions can be made up to 2 days ahead.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI normally preface these taste tests by writing nearly verbatim: “The SE team has pulled together X number brands of X Thing We Know You All Love to Eat, which you're likely to find in your local supermarket, and methodically, empirically, scientifically! tasted its way through them all in a quest to identify the very best. And we loved every minute of doing it!”
I will tell you that that whole first part is true—when it came time to eat and evaluate some easily accessible creamy peanut butter options, we did all the true-to-form testing with all the true-to-form best intentions. But I will not lie to you and say we “loved every minute of doing it.” There was joy, sure. But there was also grimacing, gagging, very dramatic sighing, and a lot of loud outrage from a group of people who just wanted to eat good nut butter in the name of science and reader service. But it turns out a lot of creamy peanut butter out there is very bad and a lot of our editors had some pretty mean things to say about it in turn.
But that’s just a different kind of fun, yeah? And, fine, there were a few we ultimately really liked—even some we totally loved. OK, let’s go!!
The Contenders* 365 Unsweetened Creamy Peanut Butter * Skippy Creamy Peanut Butter * Jif Creamy Peanut Butter * Woodstock Organic ‘Smooth & Salted’ Peanut Butter * Peanut Butter & Co. Smooth Operator * Teddie All-Natural Smooth Peanut Butter * 365 Unsweetened and Unsalted Creamy Peanut Butter * Smucker’s All-Natural Peanut Butter * Nature’s Promise Creamy Peanut Butter * Once Again Creamy Peanut Butter
The CriteriaA good creamy peanut butter needs no crutches. It doesn’t need bread to absorb a slick of palm oil or separated peanut oil, it doesn’t need jelly to sweeten the experience, and it certainly doesn’t need a sweet fruit pairing to make it more satisfying. To gauge that standalone snackability, we ate many, many spoonfuls of just straight PB. We did not slap any of the samples onto bread, crackers, pretzels, or the like given the above-stated belief that (good) creamy peanut butter should be able to be enjoyed as an island of a snack.
No part of a proper creamy peanut butter-eating experience involves a couple of textures. We’ll allow that some good creamy peanut butters require a quick stir before using them, but once reconstituted, a perfect peanut butter should be velvety smooth and thick yet completely spreadable. No grit, no gum. You should never take a bite of it and think: “Oh, wow, that’s like taking a sip of a very oily drink and a bite of an old bar snack at the same time!”
As for the reconstituting, we spent a 20-second-per-pop minimum mixing each jar ahead of distributing samples. The amount of separation ultimately didn’t correlate to our testers’ tastes, so we know a good-quality product in this realm shouldn’t require a whole-arm workout to ensure proper consistency (though so many of them did)! The best jars reconstituted well within those 20 seconds and did not leave me feeling like I’d legitimately exercised my fingers or biceps, nor did they snap any plastic knives at first mixing pass (again—more on that in a bit).
Beyond texture, we of course evaluated the flavor of each peanut butter. To assess, we looked for bold, toasted nutty flavors with no acrid or otherwise funky aftertaste. Listen. When creamy peanut butter is correct, you have it as a pantry staple because you know it’s going to be easy, satisfying, and smooth.
In our blind tasting, each tester tasted each sample in a random order (each person in a different order) and rated it on a scale of zero to five on the following criteria: spreadability, smoothness, and taste(See more on our tasting methodology below.) We included salted variations, sweetened variations, and unsalted and unsweetened variations. We stayed away from peanut butter “spreads” (which typically contain fewer peanuts and more stabilizers) in favor of identifying a peanutty-as-possible winner. Some testers used water and/or white bread as palate-cleansers between samples. That’s it. Let’s go.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe RankingsWoodstock Organic ‘Smooth & Salted’ Peanut Butter: 4/5This one right here? The only consensus across the whole group. Pre-stir, it was looser than I thought people were going to like, but there was minimal separation to start and a brief stir yielded a smooth and shiny product the group enjoyed. “If it’s a natural peanut butter, it has a smoothness that I haven’t seen in others,” Daniel wrote in his tasting notes. The peanut taste hits you hard up front, everyone said, before mellowing out a bit. Genevieve said the whole bite was “nutty, caramel-like, and [hit] right.” From here on out, people either gave high marks for smoothness and spreadability or for taste—there was not a single other jar that netted high marks in both veins. With an ingredient list that includes just organic dry roasted blanched peanuts and salt, this peanut butter was impressively smooth (not necessarily a given with more “natural” peanut butters).
Jif Creamy Peanut Butter: 3.92/5My favorite part of taste testing with my coworkers is when they take a bite they feel soooo confident they can place immediately. It is very fun when they’re wrong, but they far more often are right. My notes from their notes on tasting Jif’s Creamy peanut butter are as follows: “So sweet,” “so sweet it almost circles back around to ‘salty,’” “this reminds me of Jif,” “it is…so sweet. It would be good in desserts, milkshakes, smoothies, or as a snack with chocolate,” and “so sweet. Jif?” The thing was a soft, laminated block with absolutely no separation upon opening; I stirred and stirred for Taste Test Integrity’s Sake, but there was no need. The stuff is made of “Roasted Peanuts, Sugar, Contains 2% or Less of: Molasses, Fully Hydrogenated Vegetable Oils (Rapeseed and Soybean), Mono and Diglycerides, Salt.”Anyway, if it walks like an overly processed, viscerally nostalgic duck and talks like an overly processed, viscerally nostalgic duck, it’s going to sneak its way to the top of a Serious Eats taste test.
Peanut Butter & Co. Smooth Operator: 3.67/5Given how (1) light and (2) distinctly separated this one was out of the gate, I wasn’t sure where it would land. But it reconstituted easily and pleasantly, giving way to high points in smoothness and spreadability from all of our testers. That said: with three grams of added sugar serving, it was sweet-sweet. But listen—if you like a sweet and smooth peanut butter, this is a good pick!
Skippy Creamy Peanut Butter: 3.65/5Again, Genevieve, with the “Is this Skippy?” note immediately. The ulta-refined sheen and very easy spread gave the stuff away pretty quickly. (Relatedly: My pre-stir notes for this option are nearly identical to my Jif ones—do with that what you will!) It also ate like a dessert, leading Yasmine and Megan to note they likely wouldn’t eat this on its own. I would eat it on its own and be very happy to do it, but that’s my mid-millennial speaking.
Once Again Creamy Peanut Butter: 3.41/5This one was an odd duck, but, like, in a fun way. It was so, soloose, but not at all separated. Stirring, of course, did nothing, but, sure, I had fun moving gloopy nut water around in circles in a tiny space! It’s just…I barely tipped the jar over the sampling bowl in order to pour so much of it out. You could’ve dripped this bad boy onto a 1° angle and it would’ve found its way to the floor in a second!! But I digress: The product was gentle in all the other ways—smooth, but not too slick, nutty, but not overly so (simply “savory,” even, per one set of notes), and no hint of processed junk. In fact, Once Again’s PB was the only option without mention of the word “processed” in the testers’ notes. Just, ya know. Straight liquid.
Teddie All-Natural Smooth Peanut Butter: 3.41/5A few things of note by the time we hit this halfway point: People began to remark on “grit,” “salt,” and “stick.” I noted visible chunks in the pre-stir phase and I wasn’t able to physically de-chunk the sample before presenting it, so it wasn’t a surprise to read that everyone called this a significantly chewier experience. Daniel didn’t hate the salt level, but he didn’t love the grit. Everyone loved how it spread in a luxurious, meldable blanket. The color was pretty too. So…chunky and salty “smooth” and spreadable! That’s this one’s shtick. If you like your “creamy” peanut butter to be not-so-secretly chunky, this could be the one for you.
365 Unsweetened Creamy Peanut Butter: 2.6/5If you don’t have room in your heart for brutally honest peanut butter discourse, this is your heads up to back out now. We’ll start with the positives here: Whole Foods’ Unsweetened Creamy Peanut Butter spreads like a dream. Give it a surface area—any surface area!—and you’d be able to coat it exactly to your liking with this stuff. Otherwise, though, this was a soupy, lackluster option that no one particularly enjoyed eating. In fact, it tasted as though it had been roasted with elderly peanuts a long, long time ago.
365 Unsweetened and Unsalted Creamy Peanut Butter: 2.41/5If I had to award a superlative for “Most Separated Peanut Butter,” this would’ve taken it. It was an oleaginous party up top and a rock-solid party on the bottom. Nobody hated how it tasted, but it was very hard to get past the grease slick. Daniel called it “liquid goo” and then wrote something almost certainly litigious, so that may be the last you’ll hear of his thoughts for the remainder of the piece. Genevieve most helpfully contextualized the consistency, writing “If you ate hole-y sourdough, it would definitely drip through.”
Nature’s Promise Creamy Peanut Butter: 2.3/5Listen, I don’t even want to do this anymore, but: this was the most difficult-to-blend of the bunch. I did actually snap a knife trying to do it. Nobody had striking thoughts on the spreadability of the product, but they did mention it tasted like “chemicals,” and ate like “lipstick” and “spackle,” so.
Smucker’s All-Natural Peanut Butter: 2/5“This peanut butter did not understand the assignment,” per Yasmine. “It's not the peanut butter I want,” wrote Daniel. It was gummy, Megan said. It simply did not feel like a natural product. I snapped another knife attempting to reconstitute this one. And yet: They all said it tasted just fine.
An Honorable (Absent) MentionI forgot we agreed to do this day-of when I revealed Koeze wasn't part of the tasting samples and I am so tired after having written 2,100 words about peanut butter that my pal Daniel wrote this nice little bite up for me today. Again, this is Daniel writing as me so that I could keep my day moving without further thought to peanut butter:
Daniel was scandalized by the absence of his favorite peanut butter from the tasting—but what can I say, it's not widely available! While this peanut butter was not part of the tasting and therefore can't be ranked with the others, Daniel insists it get an honorable mention because he swears it's so damned good. He describes it as a natural peanut butter that seems to resist extreme separation (some minor separation happens because it's not a homogenized product, but it stirs back together easily), and says it has a classic peanut flavor with a subtle sweetness that seems to come directly from the peanuts themselves given there's no added sugar and just a touch of sea salt.
Our Tasting MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted completely blind and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample 1 first, while taster B will taste sample 6 first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria that vary from sample to sample. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation of actual results possible.
Serious Eats / Grace KellySpider strainers’ (a.k.a skimmers) origins lie in East Asia, where they’re commonly used in wok cooking, allowing the user to deftly and quickly toss or scoop food. If you take a gander at one, you can see how they get their name with the web-like threads of metal fanning out from a centralized point. Dumplings, pasta, blanched vegetables, and doughnuts are scooped up easily, with any residual liquid quickly draining away. It's a versatile tool, and one I'm always reaching for.
Why I Love My Spider StrainerWhile slotted spoons have their use cases (retrieving a single boiled or poached egg, I guess?), a spider strainer is my go-to for scooping and draining tasks big and small.
While they sometimes come with wooden handles, I own a stainless steel number which I keep in a utensil crock near my stovetop. Its long handle makes it easy to toss and turn fried treats like doughnuts, French fries, or fried clams all while keeping my arm and digits at a safe distance; the same is true when scooping pasta or blanched vegetables out of hot water. But its key feature, which has me grabbing it over a slotted spoon, is its large, webbed scooping bowl.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe intertwined metal pieces create the namesake “spiderweb” shape, and since they crisscross to form quarter-inch gaps, they're fantastic at wicking away liquids: Doughnuts emerge without excess grease, and I can scoop up a load of rigatoni rather than just two or three noodles. It’s also a must-have when cooking with a wok, making it easy to toss and fry crunchy salt and pepper squid or chicken wings.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikAssociate editorial director Megan Steintrager loves using her spider strainer as well, particularly for pasta dishes where she wants to save some of that starchy water. "It lets me put the pasta directly into a separate pan on the stovetop while saving the cooking water in case I need to add it to the sauce," she says. "No pouring pasta cooking water that I meant to reserve down the drain and no handling large, heavy pots of boiling water."
While I’m not saying we should all ditch our slotted spoons, I am saying that it’s worthwhile to have a spider strainer on hand—get one in your utensil crock and maybe you too will become a convert.
FAQsWhat’s the best spider strainer?While we haven’t tested spider strainers, there are lots of options out there, and most are pretty affordable and will do the job fine. A couple that we’ve used and like include theHiware Solid Stainless Steel Spider and Helen Chen’s Asian Kitchen Stainless Steel Spider.
Is a brass spider strainer good?Brass strainers with wooden handles are more traditional and often used in wok cooking. The wooden handle often stays cooler than a metal one.
How do you clean a spider strainer?Stainless steel spider strainers are often dishwasher-safe, though make sure to check the manufacturer's instructions. Wood and brass strainers should be hand-washed, and the wood can occasionally use a quick swipe ofmineral oil to keep it from splitting.
Why We’re the Experts* Grace Kelly is a commerce editor for Serious Eats, where she’s been testing gear since 2022. * Prior to this, she worked at America’s Test Kitchen and in restaurants as a prep cook and bartender. * She’s been using the Hiware metal spider strainer for about six years, and it's still going strong.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoCornmeal is a must-have in any pantry, as it adds a wonderful flavor and robust texture to many dishes. Here, we've highlighted several of our best cornbread recipes, including fritters, pancakes, casseroles, and a delicious Jamaican cornmeal porridge to round out the collection.
Southern-Style Unsweetened CornbreadSerious Eats / Mariel De La CruzFor many folks, whether living in the South or the Pacific Northwest, this is the One True Cornbread, baked in a preheated cast iron skillet with a batter made from little more than stone-ground cornmeal, eggs, and buttermilk.
Moist and Tender Brown Butter CornbreadSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltMany of us crave the sweeter cake-like style of cornbread prevalent throughout the Northeast and Midwest. To appease Northern palates, try this gilded version of Joshua's basic recipe. Butter is browned in a skillet before the batter is poured in for a nuttier, toastier flavor.
Grill-Baked Skillet CornbreadSerious Eats / Lorena MassoThis cornbread achieves a wonderfully smoky and charred flavor by toasting the cornmeal, charring the corn and poblano pepper, and baking directly on the grill.
ScrappleSerious Eats / Fred HardyWhoever first turned cornmeal and butcher's scraps into a breakfast meat deserves a prize of some sort. Rich with pork, this humble Pennsylvania-Dutch specialty is perfect with eggs.
Savory Bacon-Cheddar Pancakes With Corn and JalapeñoSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltTired of the same old flapjacks? Try frying up some bacon and then adding corn kernels and minced chiles to the pan. Scrape half of the mixture into a cornmeal-buttermilk batter and fold in some cubed cheddar. Before flipping each pancake, spoon some of the remaining bacon-corn-chile mixture on top.
Sweet and Savory Corn CasseroleSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis bubbling skillet is chockfull of fresh corn, cornmeal, and plenty of flavor. Sautéed onion, red bell pepper, cayenne, fresh sage, and shredded cheese make this creamy corn casserole an instant classic.
Jamaican Cornmeal Porridge With Coconut and Condensed MilksSerious Eats / Daniel GritzerInfused with the flavors of nutmeg, vanilla, bay leaf, coconut, brown sugar, and condensed milk, this creamy Jamaican porridge is absolutely delicious.
Buttermilk HushpuppiesSerious Eats / Yvonne RupertiThese fried nuggets of cornmeal batter are a Southern classic for a reason. Crunchy on the outside and tender on the inside, they're a perfect barbecue side.
Festival (Jamaican Fried Cornmeal Dumplings)Serious Eats / Karina MatalonThese long, oval-shaped fried dumplings are lighter in texture than hushpuppies. Sporting a crisp, golden crust and a tender, slightly sweet interior, they can be enjoyed as a snack or as an accompaniment to spicy, savory dishes.
Easy Skillet Tamale Pie With Cornbread CrustSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltIf you're inclined to serve cornbread and chili together, you might be interested in Kenji's take on tamale pie, an American classic that's been around since the 1930s. A spicy filling of ground beef, onion, garlic, scallions, and cheese is topped with brown butter cornbread batter and popped in the oven until golden and crispy around the edges.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianArmenian cuisine is ancient, dating back to at least 400 BC. Historical Armenia was located both along one of the Silk Road routes and another busy trade route between the Black and Caspian seas, allowing exchanges of culinary influences from afar. The region is also where a number of key domesticated food crops have flourished historically, including wheat and barley, grapes, apricots, and peaches, and these foods are central to its cuisine.
Armenians love meat, especially lamb, but relative poverty meant that meat was usually reserved for special occasions until fairly recently. The Kingdom of Armenia was the first to adopt Christianity nationwide in the 4th century AD, and ecclesiastical restrictions on the consumption of meat meant that Armenia developed a robust vegetarian cuisine, embracing the use of beans, lentils, nuts, and dairy products like yogurt and cheese.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianBelow, you’ll find a list of the key ingredients of Armenian cuisine, with tips for their use and where to find them. Many are easily found in any supermarket, while others will require a little more effort. You'll find Armenian markets in metropolitan areas of the United States and Canada where there are significant Armenian populations, but many of the specialty ingredients used in Armenian cooking can also be found in Arabic and Middle Eastern markets. In addition, many online stores, including My Little Armenia and House of Lavash, sell Armenian products. For high-quality spices, I recommend both Burlap and Barrel and Curio Spice.
Dairy ProductsButterButter is essential in Armenian cooking, where it is used as a fat for many savory dishes, including rice pilaf and harissa, and for sweets like gata and other cakes and cookies. For example, copious amounts of it are essential for making the classic Armenian Easter bread known as choreg.
CheeseArmenians eat and cook with a wide variety of cheeses, and dishes like the buttery, crisp, phyllo-wrapped turnovers called borek feature multiple kinds of cheese. But perhaps the most iconic is string cheese (tel banir), without which no Armenian mezze platter is complete. Unlike the shrink-wrapped sticks of string cheese favored by American schoolchildren, which is usually an aged mild cheddar or mozzarella, Armenian string cheese is a fresh cheese preserved in a brine, similar to feta. It is made by heating cow’s milk curds, adding spices, then stretching and layering them into long ropes, similar to how hand-pulled noodles are made. Once the ropes are formed, they are braided and submerged in brine.
Serious Eats / Andrew Janjigian
Armenians also use tangy hard cow’s milk cheeses in dishes such as boreks and su boreg. One of the most popular varieties of these hard cheeses is called lori, a slightly salty, tangy hard cheese similar to Muenster. Salty sheep’s milk cheeses like feta also figure prominently in Armenian cuisine.
YogurtYogurt is ubiquitous on the Armenian table, and is used in many Armenian dishes both savory and sweet. (Armenians introduced yogurt to the wider American world, when Columbo Yogurt was founded in 1929 by Rose and Sarkis Colombosian, in Andover, Massachusetts.) Armenian yogurt is usually plain, full-fat yogurt made from cow’s milk. It is used as a condiment—either plain or mixed with a little minced garlic—for many savory dishes, including mantiandganach lupia, and bowls of yogurt are commonly set on the table as a universal condiment. It also serves as the base of soups, including tanabour, a grain-and-yogurt soup that is served both hot and cold, and the soup-like dip made from yogurt and cucumbers known as djadjekh. Thin yogurt with water, and you’ll get a cooling Armenian drink known as tan. Yogurt is often used as the liquid or dairy component in cakes and sweets, including in gata, or Armenian coffee cake.
Serious Eats /Andrew Janjigian
Some Armenians also use chortan, also known as khash, which is yogurt that has been dried down into brittle chunks to preserve it. It can be rehydrated in water and used like yogurt in dishes.
Fresh Herbs and GreensHerbs, both fresh and dried, are essential to Armenian savory cooking. Armenian food is less reliant on spices for flavor than many other regional cuisines, with aromatic herbs doing the work instead.
Fresh herbs like purple basil, scallions, dill, mint, flat-leaf parsley, cilantro, tarragon, and summer savory are used as a garnish (often in combination) for many dishes, either chopped fine, as in dishes like eetch, chi kofte, and vospov kofte, or left whole and served as a sort of side salad. (The filling for jingalov hats, an unleavened flatbread from Artzakhis made using a finely chopped combination of these sorts of herbs, along with others collected from the wild.)
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianPurslaneOne fresh green especially beloved by Armenians is purslane, or per per, which has a tart flavor and a crisp texture. Purslane is used in salads or chopped up and added to soups both cold and hot. Though the herb isn’t very well known here in the United States unless you’re a forager, it grows as a weed in many places. Purslane also grows like a weed—it makes so many seeds that it can be hard to eliminate once it shows up, so you should do as many Armenians do and embrace it.
Dried HerbsAs for dried herbs, mint (spearmint, not the menthol-heavy peppermint used to make mint tea) is an essential flavoring for many Armenian soups and stews. Other dried herbs used in Armenian cuisine include za’atar (a wild herb in the oregano family that is also the basis of an herb and spice blend by the same name), savory, tarragon, sorrel, and thyme.
Nuts and SeedsNutsWalnuts are theessential nut of Armenian cuisine. In savory dishes they are used as a base, like in the spicy dip muhammara, and as a component in numerous soups. Walnuts are also used as the filling for a variety of sweets, including many cookies, cakes like gataand nazook, and phyllo pastries such as bourma, baklava, and kunafe. The Armenian “sweet sausage" called rojik is made by tying walnuts a few inches apart on a string, which is then dipped over and over again into a molten pot of grape molasses and allowed to cool, not unlike how candles are formed. It's sliced thin and served as a mezze item.
Serious Eats / Andrew Janjigian
Almonds, pistachios, hazelnuts, and pine nuts are also commonly used in Armenian cuisine, used whole as elements of pilafs and other rice dishes, and whole or ground in sweets.
Tahini PasteTahini paste, made from roasted, ground sesame seeds, is used in a variety of Armenian foods, both sweet and savory. It's used in the filling for a vegetarian potato-chickpea dumpling called topik, and in both hummus and baba ganoush, two Middle Eastern dishes beloved by Armenians. In sweet applications, it appears in cookies and as the filling for tahinov hats, or Armenian tahini bread, a laminated flatbread.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianFruitsDried FruitsA trip to an Armenian grocery store will yield a panoply of dried fruits, including raisins, mulberries, figs, dates, and two kinds of sour cherries—a true tart cherry, along with Cornelian cherries, which are actually the fruit of a Dogwood tree . But the dried fruit Armenians love most is apricots, which originated in the area (the species name for apricots is Prunus armeniaca). They are served as part of a mezze spread, and as a component in numerous starch-thickened puddings, as well as a traditional New Year's sweet porridge called anoush abour, made with wheat berries, dried fruit, and nuts.
Serious Eats / Andrew Janjigian
Grape, mulberry, and pomegranate molasses appear frequently in Armenian cuisine, as souring agents in dishes like muhammara and eetch, and as the base for rojik.
Armenians also make a variety of dried fruit leathers using apples, grapes, apricots, and plums; they are known as bastegh or t’tu lavash (“sour lavash”) a nod to their resemblance to the classic Armenian flatbread.
Fresh FruitsApricots, peaches, grapes, cherries, quince, and mulberries feature heavily in Armenian cuisine and culture, but pomegranates are the most prized fruit. The pomegranate symbolizes eternity to Armenians and appears regularly in artwork, woven rugs, and jewelry, both modern and historical. The seeds are eaten out of hand and as a garnish for various dishes both savory and sweet.
Dried SpicesArmenians use a wide variety of dried spices in their cooking, including cumin, black pepper, dried garlic, paprika, cayenne, fenugreek, allspice, cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove. Hot red pepper flakes like Aleppo pepper are regularly used for their heat and fruity fragrance.
ChemenOne classic ground spice blend used in Armenian cuisine is chemen, a mixture of cumin, black pepper, garlic powder, hot red pepper, paprika, fenugreek, and salt. It is used as a rub for basturma, a dry-cured beef, and to season soujouk, a dried beef sausage.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianMahlabMahlab is made from the tiny seeds of the St. Lucy's cherry (Prunus mahaleb), a tree native to the Mediterranean, Iran, and parts of Central Asia. Because the seeds are extremely hard, they're always ground into a fine powder before use. Along with nigella, it is one of the two key flavoring ingredients for choreg, or Armenian Easter bread, and it is commonly used to flavor Armenian string cheese. Its flavor is aromatic and complex, drawing comparisons to cherry, almond, vanilla, and rose.
The oils in mahlab are extremely quick to oxidize and turn rancid if exposed to air, so it’s best to purchase whole mahlab, store them in a sealed container in the freezer, and grind them in a spice mill or mortar and pestle just before use. If you can only find ground mahlab, use it soon after purchase, and store the remainder in the freezer. In my experience, the mahlab sold in many Middle Eastern grocery stores is often already rancid, so your best bet is to source it from a reputable online merchant; I like the mahlab from Curio Spice.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianNigellaNigella is referred to variously as "black cumin," "black caraway," "onion seed," "black sesame," and even "fennel flower,” although it isn't botanically related to any of those spices and vegetables. Nigella is wonderfully complex, and with its notes of citrus, pine, and menthol, it's easy to see why it's compared to so many other spices. Nigella is also bitter, which is why it's almost always left whole rather than ground into a powder, so its aroma can infuse a dish without the bitter flavor taking over. Nigella is used in choreg, and is added to Armenian string cheese. It's also used to decorate breads and pastries, like boreks.
SumacSumac is a drupe that grows on trees, and is usually sold as a powdered spice. It lends foods a sour flavor, and along with the herb za’atar and sesame seeds, is one of the key ingredients in the za’atar spice blend, Sumac is often sprinkled over a dish for a hit of tartness in Armenian cuisine, including on sini manti and many salads.
Preserved ItemsGrape LeavesGrape leaves are used as wrappers for sarma, or stuffed grape leaves, which can be filled with a spiced rice mixture and served at room temperature, or filled with a combination of meat and rice to be served hot. Grape leaves that have been preserved in brine are sold in jars. They should be rinsed and patted dry before use.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianRed Pepper Paste (Beghbeghi Tchur)Along with tomato paste (with which it is commonly combined), red pepper paste made from red bell or large red chile peppers is one of the most important jarred ingredients used in Armenian cuisine. It’s used in a wide variety of dishes for savoriness and a gentle heat, including lahmajun, khorovats, ganach lupia, and losh kebabs.
LegumesArmenians use a variety of dried beans and legumes in their cooking, but the two most important are red lentils and chickpeas. Red lentils are used in soups andvegetarian kofte called vospov kofte, among other dishes. Chickpeas feature in soups and stews, salads, and the vegetarian dumplings called topik.also essential in hummus, which isn't exclusively Armenian, but almost always appears on Armenian mezze spreads. Armenians also cook with a small red bean called a Goris bean, which is similar to a cranberry bean (there’s also a purple-black variant), and it is the base for the filling in my lavash triangles recipe.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianGrains, Pasta, and Wheat ProductsArmenians use a wide variety of dried grains in their cooking, including barley, buckwheat, and hulled wheat berries, the last of which is used to make the chicken-and-wheat porridge known as harissa. Along with wheat flour, semolina (a coarsely-ground durum flour) is commonly used in puddings, cakes, and cookies. Long-grain white rice is used to make Armenian rice pilaf and to fill dolma (stuffed vegetables) and sarma (stuffed grape leaves).
BulgurOther than rice, maybe the most important grain for Armenians is bulgur, which is par-boiled and dried cracked durum wheat. This quick-cooking whole grain is used in eetch, vospov kofte, tabbouleh (and other salads), as a starchy filler for a variety of meatballs (kofta), and is often used to makepilaf. (Bulgur is quick to turn rancid when exposed to oxygen, so it’s best stored in the fridge or freezer.)
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianLavashLavash is so central to Armenian culture that it was recently added to UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. (It also appears separately on that list as culturally important to Armenia's neighbors Azerbaijan, Iran, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Turkey.) Lavash is used as a wrap for meats like losh kebab andkhorovats and as an edible utensil for dishes like eetch, harissa, and dips such as hummus and baba ganoush. It can also be used in place of phyllo to make filled turnovers like my lavash triangles. Other popular breads in Armenia include pita, choreg, and matnakash.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianPhyllo (Fillo) DoughPhyllo dough, found in the freezer section of most grocery stores, serves as the wrapper for a variety of Armenian dishes, including savory boreks and the sweet pastries baklavaandbourma.
VermicelliAlong with rice or bulgur, the other key ingredient in Armenian rice pilaf is a fine, long-stranded dried pasta like vermicelli or thin spaghetti. Many Armenians use vermicelli nests, since they are easy to portion out.
Serious Eats / Victor ProtasioTruth be told, chicken hits with us most days of the week. And while it's all fine and dandy with a milder flavor, sometimes we could use a bit of spice. Thankfully, our archive is full of spicy chicken recipes! From tacos and kebabs to sandwiches and grilled options, there's something everyone will love. Bring on the heat!
Real-Deal Kung Pao ChickenSerious Eats / Melissa HomHomemade Kung Pao chicken is marinated with soy sauce, fresh ginger, and spices before cooking in a smoking hot wok.
Smoky and Spicy Yogurt Marinated Chicken KebabsSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineA riff on tandoori-style chicken, these chicken kebabs are marinated with smoked and hot paprika in place of the more traditional Indian spice blend.
Korean-Style Fire Chicken (Buldak) With CheeseSerious Eats / Vicky WasikFire chicken is the ultimate game-day snack that will make you forget all about Buffalo wings.
Kimchi-Brined Fried Chicken SandwichSerious Eats / Vicky Wasik.Kimchi-buttermilk-brined thighs, fried until super-crisp, stacked on toasted buns or black sesame biscuits. It doesn't get much better than this.
Nashville Hot Chicken SandwichSerious Eats / Victor ProtasioThis picy, crispy, juicy fried chicken served on a brioche bun with mayonnaise and pickle chips will make your mouth burn.
Coconut- and Ají Amarillo–Braised ChickenSerious Eats / Vicky WasikCoconut and ají amarillo often find themselves together in ceviche, but in the dead of winter, this combination also makes for a rich and cheerful-looking braise.
Spicy Grilled Jerk ChickenSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltScotch bonnet peppers puréed with other fresh aromatics and spices provide the foundation for a powerfully flavored marinade. The marinated chicken is cooked low and slow over smoldering allspice berries and bay leaves, before crisped on high heat for the classic charred finish.
Bang Bang Ji Si (Hot and Numbing Sichuan Chicken Salad)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltSous vide is the modern way to make this Sichuan classic, without the banging.
Easy One-Pot Chicken TingaSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltSmoky and spicy, this is the ultimate one-pot taco filling. Using skin-on, bone-in chicken breasts produces plenty of flavor while maintaining a juicy, shreddable texture.
Grilled Sweet and Spicy Chicken WingsSerious Eats / Joshua BouselThese grilled wings are juicy, tender, and imbued with a hint of smoke.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBefore iPads became the easy way to entertain children while dining out, cloyingly sweet and adorably pink Shirley Temples were the go-to parenting tool for keeping kids happy while in a crowded restaurant. I was one of those kids whose parents relied on a Shirley Temple to get through a meal out in public without me making a scene. Between the ages of roughly four and six, every time my family would dine out, I (like a lot of children that age) would shift from being an adorable, charming little girl into a bit of a monster who would hide under the table if my sister looked at me funny, or my brother breathed too hard. (As a parent, I now live through similar scenarios with my own kids.)
The only way I’d emerge would be after my mom handed me a Shirley Temple with no fewer than five maraschino cherries. Within the first few sips of that delightfully saccharine and effervescent rosy drink, I’d calm down, come to my senses, and rejoin my siblings at the table, ignoring the overpriced chicken fingers in front of me while I’d savor the slow squish of every cherry and delight in attempting to tie the cherry stems with my tongue (I never did nail that trick).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile I can now control my emotional outbursts (most of the time) and I recognize that my mother is a total saint for putting up with my childhood shenanigans, my love for Shirley Temples hasn’t changed. A great Shirley Temple is more than just a drink: It’s a sugary moment of nostalgia for so many adults like me. While I don’t drink as many Shirley Temples as I used to, it’s nice to enjoy one every now and then, and to share my love of them with my kids. The best part is that they can easily be made at home with just three main ingredients: ginger ale or lemon-lime soda, grenadine, and maraschino cherries.
Origins of the Shirley TempleObviously, this beloved drink was named after the late child star Shirley Temple Black, but the origins of why and exactly where the drink was invented are debatable. According to Time, it’s believed that sometime in the 1930s while Temple, who would have been about 12 at the time, was dining out in Hollywood at either Chasen’s or Brown Derby Restaurant, the waitstaff concocted the mixture of soda and grenadine for her on the spot and added it as a child-friendly nonalcoholic option to the bar menu. From there, it grew in popularity across the U.S.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe 3 Ingredients in a Classic Shirley TempleThe ingredient list of a Shirley Temple is as simple as the drink is sweet—soda, grenadine, and maraschino cherries. The soda can be either ginger ale or lemon-lime. I grew up on the east coast where most restaurants serve it with ginger ale, but there are many recipes that call for lemon-lime soda, such as Sprite or 7UP. There's no wrong choice among the two, so stick with your preferred mixer, combine the two, or feel free to cut the soda with sparkling water to tame the sweetness of the drink.
You can use old standbys for the sodas, or go with boutique or specialty sodas such as Reed’s ginger ale, which has a great fiery kick. You can even spike it with some vodka to turn it into a trendy “Dirty Shirley.” When it comes to the grenadine, you can be ambitious and make your own with our DIY grenadine recipe, but really there’s no need. I’ve made and tasted the basic recipe here with Schweppes ginger ale and store-bought grenadine as well as versions with “upgraded” components like homemade grenadine and specialty soda, and I always lean toward the classic version I know and love from my childhood, but go with your preference. Fire-engine red maraschino cherries are arguably the most important part of the Shirley Temple experience. They’re loaded with nostalgia, and, in my opinion, you should add as many as can fit into the glass. Luxardo cherries are a great option, but I prefer the glow of artificially-dyed cherries in mine.
If you’re feeling fancy, a squeeze of lime to finish the drink cuts through the sweetness. But I prefer to revel in the sugar high—few moments in adult life are ever this sweet.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFill a tall glass with ice. Pour soda over the ice. Using a spoon, gently stir grenadine into ginger ale until combined. Top with as many maraschino cherries as your little heart desires.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAbout 150 miles north of Edinburgh is the village of Methlick, a small community of about 540 people in Aberdeenshire, Scotland. There’s one main road with a church, a school, an inn, and a tiny store—it’s the kind of place where everyone greets each other by name. Surrounded by farmland and rolling hills, the town is where you’ll find what is unequivocally the best shortbread in the world. Each bite is rich and buttery, with a tender, crumbly texture that melts in your mouth. Across the top is a generous dusting of golden sugar that glints in the sunlight, as if it were inviting you to please take a bite. You won’t find the shortbread in a café or a shop. It’s only available in the kitchen of a feisty, charming 85-year-old woman named Evelyn Cook, my husband’s grandmother. But lucky me—and now lucky you—I have the recipe for Evelyn’s magical shortbread and I’m sharing it here.
It was the smell of this shortbread that greeted us when we stepped into her home last March. I followed the aroma to the kitchen, where a freshly made batch, barely out of the oven, was cooling in its pan. I was ravenous after the long drive up from Edinburgh and I eyed the shortbread greedily, eagerly waiting for it to become cool enough to eat.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
My first bite tasted as good as it smelled. Though I’d eaten shortbread many times before, I’d never had one that captured my attention the way this one did. It was the platonic ideal of what shortbread should be: It wasn’t too sweet and somehow managed to be both crisp and tender at the same time. I detected slight nutty undertones from what was, I learned later, whole wheat flour. I rarely ever taste something so delicious that I feel the need to recreate it at home, but I was determined to leave with the shortbread recipe in hand.
Evelyn, who insists that her grandchildren call her Gaga, has been making shortbread for 50 years. When I asked for the recipe, she rattled off a list of ingredients and measurements with the kind of familiarity that only comes from making the same recipe for years and years, over and over again, until it’s simply ingrained in your head. The recipe, she says, originally came from my husband’s great-great aunt Mary, and it’s the one she’s made ever since.
When I returned home to New York, I was delighted to see an email from Gaga with the recipe. It’s a wonderfully easy one that barely requires more than a bowl. All you have to do is whisk together the flour, sugar, cornstarch, and salt, pour an ungodly amount of melted butter over it, and gently press to form a cohesive dough before transferring it to a 9- by 13-inch baking sheet, smoothing it out, and baking until lightly golden. There’s no stand mixer involved and no rolling and chilling necessary. In other words, it’s the easiest shortbread ever—and it’s Scottish grandma approved.
The Origins of ShortbreadShortbread hails from Scotland. According to food historian Alan Davidson, editor of The Oxford Companion to Food, the baked good can be traced back to 16th century Britain, when bakers made “short cakes,” a rich pastry with eggs and leavened with yeast that eventually evolved into different kinds of biscuits enjoyed throughout the U.K. today. “The original Scottish shortbread is simply a thick layer of rich, sweetened shortcrust pastry, without any extra flavorings,” he writes in the book. “The classic proportions of ingredients for a shortbread recipe are one part sugar to two of butter and three of flour,” which results in the biscuit’s signature short, crumbly texture.
Traditionally, bakers prepared shortbread by pressing it into a decorated wooden mold. Though it’s eaten year-round now, it has historically been associated with Yuletide. Writing in the New York Times in 1977, Ann Barry notes that on New Year’s Day, early visitors—called “first-footers”—would bring shortbread with them; the baked good was supposed to be kept whole until the evening feast: ”If it remained whole, unbroken prosperity would be assured in the household for the next year; if it crumbled before then, hopes of good fortune were dashed.”
At one point, shortbread also served as a wedding cake in rural Scotland. Florence Marian McNeill, author of The Scots Kitchen, notes that the “mester-hoosal,” or the master of ceremonies, would smash “infar cake,” a shortened oatcake, over the bride’s head in her new home as a kind of house-warming custom. Today, shortbread is eaten throughout the United Kingdom and often enjoyed with a cup of tea.
Bakers—especially Scots—have many strong feelings about what makes the best shortbread. Some make their shortbread by creaming butter and sugar; some shape the biscuits into individual portions before baking; some dock the dough before baking to prevent uneven rising. And some, like Gaga, bake it in a large mold and portion after. Shortbread can be a very personal thing. As Barry wrote in the New York Times: “If one is fortunate enough to sample homemade shortbread with a group of Scots, the matter of what is and is not shortbread may, nonetheless, be open to heated debate.”
Butter Is Your Friend for the Best ShortbreadWith so few ingredients, most of shortbread’s flavor comes from the dairy you use. I recommend using good quality butter with a substantial amount of butterfat. At 82 to 85% butterfat, European-style butter contains more fat than the 80% butterfat of most American butters. My personal favorite is Kerrygold’s unsalted butter, which has 82% butterfat and comes from grass-fed cows. (Because pasture-raised cows eat a more varied diet, their milk is often more complex-tasting, and I like to use it in shortbread, where the flavor of the butter really shines through.) I’ve made this recipe with both European-style butter and American butter; while the version made with European-style butter is ever so slightly richer, the shortbread with American butter was still excellent—and if all you have access to is American butter, you’ll still get very good shortbread.
Many shortbread recipes start by having you cream softened butter with sugar, incorporating the dough with what former Serious Eats editor Stella Parks describes as “micro pockets of air.” Because air is a poor conductor of heat, “it helps insulate the dough from the hot baking sheet in the oven, slowing the rate at which the butter and sugar melt,” she notes. As cookies bake, the air pockets “begin to swell with steam, a gentle upward draft that helps to hold the dough aloft. When the cookie finally sets, the air’s footprint forms its crumb.”
Gaga’s method of using melted butter, though, is simpler—and foolproof. As former Serious Eats editor Kristina Razon wrote in her guide to softening butter, the task isn’t as simple as just making butter pliable. "The exact temperature of your softened butter," she says, "can influence how doughs and batters form and can have a make-or-break impact on the final results." By using melted butter, there’s no time spent wondering if the butter is the right temperature or consistency. Even better, there’s no faffing about with a stand or hand mixer.
In addition to lending the biscuit its flavor, butter also contributes to the confection’s “shortness,” the crumbly texture you’ll find in certain tart doughs and cookies like shortbread. Using plenty of butter ensures that fat evenly coats all the dry ingredients, limiting the development of gluten and keeping the biscuit tender. You’re not mistaken—there is, indeed, a full pound of butter in this shortbread. But it’s absolutely necessary for the rich texture that is so quintessential to good shortbread.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhy You Should Use Whole Wheat Flour for Flavorful ShortbreadAnother thing that distinguishes Gaga’s recipe from many others is its use of whole wheat flour in conjunction with regular all-purpose flour or, in the U.K., plain flour. Whole wheat flours contain both the bran and germ; because they have flavorful oils, they typically have a more nuanced flavor than its all-purpose counterpart.
In the U.S., most whole wheat flours come from red wheat; in this recipe, I opt for whole wheat flour milled from white wheat.To be clear: white whole wheat flour doesn’t refer to the color of the flour, but rather the type of wheat from which it’s made, which has the same brownish shade and a similarly rustic texture to other whole wheat flours. It has a slightly lower protein content (about 12%) compared to standard whole wheat flour (about 13%), which helps keep the shortbread tender while still bringing a subtle earthiness. (Flours with a higher protein content tend to develop more gluten, which can result in a tougher, chewier cookie.) If you can’t find white whole wheat flour, you can use a whole wheat made from red wheat—it’ll still be delicious, just not quite as “short.
Mix in Some Cornstarch for the Tenderest ShortbreadIn addition to all-purpose flour and whole wheat flour, you’ll notice there’s a hefty amount of cornstarch in Gaga’s recipe. Bakers often add the ingredient to their baked goods to “soften” the proteins in the flour, a process food science writer Harold McGee describes as diluting the gluten proteins. “Because different flours have not only different protein contents, but different protein qualities, it’s not really possible to turn all-purpose flour into pastry flour or vice versa,” he writes in his book On Food and Cooking. “However, it’s possible to dilute the gluten proteins of a given flour by the addition of cornstarch or another pure starch,” which encourages tenderness. It’s why many home cooks combine all-purpose flour with cornstarch to approximate pastry flour when they don’t have any on hand.
Incorporating cornstarch into the shortbread dough is an easy way to reduce the overall gluten in the dough and, together with the hefty amount of melted butter, produces incredibly short cookies that melt in your mouth. And it’s why I’m not afraid to knead the dough a little—albeit gently!—to get it to come together or firmly press it into the pan. There are so many safeguards in place to ensure that this shortbread will stay tender, it’s nearly impossible to mess up, even if you’re a novice baker.
Note that some bakers, including Gaga, sometimes use rice flour in place of cornstarch in their shortbread for a more brittle texture. I’ve tried it both ways, and while shortbread made with rice flour is delicious my husband and I both prefer the version with cornstarch since it produces a softer crumb, while the version with rice flour is slightly crispier.
Selecting the SugarCaster sugar is what the Brits call superfine sugar. It dissolves easily and has a sandy texture that’s finer than granulated sugar but coarser than icing sugar, making it a good in-between for baking and other confections. Gaga’s recipe originally called for regular caster sugar, but here, I’ve opted for golden caster sugar, which is unrefined and has a subtle butterscotch note. It’s a personal preference, and regular caster sugar or superfine sugar will work just fine. You can find golden caster sugar online, at British grocery stores, or specialty baking stores.
Making, Baking, and Shaping the DoughOnce you have the simple ingredients gathered together, there’s really not much to making this shortbread: You’ll whisk the dry ingredients together in a large bowl, then pour melted butter over the dry ingredients, then gently—but firmly—use your hands to knead until a cohesive dough forms. You’ll then press the dough into a rimmed baking sheet and smooth it out until it’s an even layer before popping it into the oven to bake.
Cutting and Serving the ShortbreadIt’s easiest to cut the shortbread into portions in the pan while it’s still warm—if you wait until it’s cool, it’s likely to crumble apart. After you cut the cookies, you’ll sprinkle the tops with more caster sugar. While not all recipes call for sprinkling sugar on the shortbread when it comes out of the oven, I—like Gaga—love the slight crunch it gives the cookies.
And now you’ve reached the hardest part of the recipe: waiting for the shortbread to cool for an agonizing hour. Yes, an hour! This time is required for the shortbread to cool and set. In the meantime, you can enjoy the smell of cookies (or biscuits, if you’re from the U.K.) throughout your home. Baking a batch of this shortbread may not add a Gaga to your family—or transport you to Scotland—but it’s about as close as you can get.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350ºF (175ºC). Line a 9- by 13- inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper; set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together all-purpose flour, white whole wheat flour, cornstarch, caster sugar, and salt until combined.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a small saucepan, heat butter over medium-low heat until melted. (Alternatively, melt butter in a medium bowl or measuring cup in the microwave.) Pour melted butter into the flour mixture and, using a rubber spatula or dough scraper, incorporate butter into dry ingredients, gently stirring and pressing to combine, until a cohesive dough just forms and no dry bits remain, about 1 minute. (Be careful not to overwork the dough.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezScrape dough into the prepared baking sheet and, using an offset spatula or the flat bottom of a glass or measuring cup, press dough into an even layer. Bake until fragrant and light golden, about 40 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRemove shortbread from oven and sprinkle top with a 3 tablespoons caster sugar. Using a knife, cut shortbread into individual portions while still warm. Allow shortbread to cool completely in the baking sheet, about 1 hour. Shake excess sugar off individual portions and serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment9- by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet, parchment paper, whisk, offset spatula
NotesWhite whole wheat flour has a slightly lower protein content than standard whole wheat flour, making it ideal for tender shortbread. If you can’t find white whole wheat flour, you can substitute with regular whole wheat flour. The shortbread will still be tender but not quite as “short.”
Make-Ahead and StorageStore in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week. (Shortbread is best eaten within 3 days, after which it may begin to stale.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCraving bananas? Or did you get a little overzealous in the produce aisle? Fear not, we have just the solution to your perceived problem. Bananas work well in breakfasts, desserts, and even snacks, and we've got a great selection of banana recipes from our archive. Recipes aside, check out Stella's method for efficiently turning underripe bananas into bread and other baked goods. Also: for a fascinating, banana-centric deep dive, read Jason's piece on fruity esters, the late Gros Michel, and artificial banana flavorings.
Chè Chuối (Vietnamese Banana, Tapioca, and Coconut Milk Dessert)Serious Eats / Vy TranThis delightfully rich and creamy, coconut milk–based soup makes a great snack for a mid-day sugar craving or a heady dessert to cap off a meal. Pisang awak bananas are perfect in this dish, but you may substitute ripe plantains as well.
Strawberry Banana SmoothieSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezMade with just a handful of ingredients, this strawberry banana smoothie tastes like a sippable version of strawberries and cream. Using frozen strawberries chills the smoothie without diluting its flavor with ice.
Bananas Foster Oatmeal With Walnuts and Peanut ButterSerious Eats / Vicky WasikFor this high-energy, full flavored breakfast treat, bananas and walnuts are cooked in butter with brown sugar. Half of the mixture is mashed up and added to creamy, nutty steel-cut oats, along with a big spoonful of peanut butter. Each bowl of the oatmeal is then topped with more of the caramelized banana-walnut mixture and dusted with cinnamon, nutmeg, and orange zest.
Turon (Filipino Fried Banana Rolls)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThis sweet variety of lumpia is filled with slices of Saba banana that have been tossed with brown sugar. The turon are fried twice: First until the wrappers are golden brown and the bananas are meltingly tender, and once again in brown-sugar-spiked oil for a crispy, caramelized finish.
Banana GranolaSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis recipe combines everything we love in banana bread—its mellow flavor, gentle spice, and nutty crunch—into a tender yet crisp granola that's loaded with dried fruits, whole grains, crunchy seeds, and macadamia nuts.
Creamy Banana PuddingSerious Eats / Vicky WasikAll the fruit and custard flavor we love in a scoop of banana ice cream reimagined in a warm and cozy format for a comforting dessert.
Classic Banana BreadSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThe key to making the best-tasting banana bread is using a blend of spices to amplify the banana flavor, along with a few other tricks to keep the crumb moist and tender.
Banana Cream PieSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis banana cream pie is silky, creamy, and full of fresh banana flavor. Kristina's recipe starts with baking a buttery pie crust until golden brown and then filling it with alternating layers of thinly sliced ripe bananas and a rich vanilla pastry cream. Finally, the pie is topped with brown sugar whipped cream.
Jamaican Banana FrittersSerious Eats / Karina MatalonTired of turning overripe bananas into banana bread? Use them to make Jamaican banana fritters instead. They are tender yet slightly chewy—and even simpler than basic pancakes.
Light and Silky Banana CrémeuxSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis whipped banana custard is rich, creamy, and thick, with an intense flavor developed by thoroughly infusing the milk with sliced bananas. The banana pulp is carefully strained out and pressed to expel all its goodness, keeping the texture of the custard soft and light.
Plum, Date, Banana, and Maple-Bacon SaladSerious Eats / Vicky WasikFor this fruit salad, Stella pairs creamy bananas with crispy pecans, chewy dates, juicy plums, and a fragrant scattering of tarragon leaves. The salad is dressed with maple syrup and a spoonful of bacon grease, which adds a hint of richness.
Banana Oatmeal Cookies With Peanut Butter and Chocolate ChipsSerious Eats / Carrie Vasios MullinsInspired by Elvis' favorite sandwich, mashed banana is mixed into oatmeal cookie dough. Peanut butter chips and chocolate chips are then folded in.
Rum Glazed Banana Bundt CakeSerious Eats / Yvonne RupertiBananas, shredded coconut, and cashews make this moist cake truly special. The dark rum glaze is a perfect tropical pairing with the banana and coconut flavors of the cake.
Grilled Banana Boats With Peanut Butter, Chocolate, and MarshmallowsSerious Eats / Joshua BouselFilled with mini marshmallows, peanut butter chips, and milk chocolate chips, these stuffed bananas are a wonderful way to end a cookout.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyFour years ago, as an environmental reporter in Rhode Island, I lived and breathed the beat of single-use plastics. I even interviewed a woman known as “the founding mother” of a town’s plastic bag ban.
Fast forward to today and bag bans (of the plastic varietal) are more ubiquitous; many grocery stores either don’t carry bags or have flimsy paper ones that don’t hold up from the store to the car to the kitchen counter.
Enter the reusable grocery bag: A practical way to lug groceries without throwing a bag away every time. But what’s the point if the handle breaks or the bag rips? That’s just one more bag in a landfill. To find a durable option that’ll last you a long time (and many grocery trips), I tested 11 bags of various materials, shapes, and sizes by packing, unpacking, and lugging loads of groceries for over a month.
The Winners, at a GlanceWhile this looks like a paper bag, it’s made of beeswax-coated canvas, so it’s easy to prop open and fill. It’s spacious, sturdy, and a pleasure to carry thanks to its wide handles.
This rectangular, boxy bag is super easy to open and fill; it’s also quite spacious and lightly insulated, making it great for toting chilled goods.
If you want heavy-duty insulation, you can tuck this bag into the freezer before your grocery run (it has a built-in ice pack on the bottom). The zipper opened smoothly, and the bag stood tall and was easy to fill.
While I wasn’t a huge fan of floppy bags, this set sported flat-ish bottoms, which made them easy to prop open and fill. The bags were also roomy and comfy to carry.
If you’d rather tote smaller bags than lug a big one, this set comes with 10 sturdy bags.
While it might not seem all that different from the BeeGreen and BagPodz bags, the Baggu features reinforced stitching, which bodes well for its durability. It also comes in a dazzling array of fun colors and patterns.
The TestsSerious Eats / Grace Kelly Filling and Emptying Test: I filled each bag with a variety of goods, including heavy items like canned seltzer, and fragile things like avocados and tomatoes. I noted how big the bags were and how easy they were to fill and empty. I also toted them around to see if they were comfortable to carry when full. * Durability Test: I used the winning bags during grocery trips for over a month, noting how easy they were to fill and carry, and if they held up over time. * Cleaning Test:* I cleaned the bags per manufacturer instructions (spot-cleaning for some and using the washing machine for others).
What We LearnedStructured Bags Were Better Serious Eats / Grace KellyYou know the dream: sashaying through a farmer’s market on a sunny Saturday morning, French net bags filled with juicy tomatoes, a bunch of organic beets, and a sourdough baguette peaking perkily out of the bag—bliss!
Except it’s all a lie—okay, well, just the bags are. The truth is, floppy, collapsible bags, like the ones from Junes, are a pain for your average grocery run. They sit in a puddle when you try to fill them, sag in all the wrong places, squish food, and dig into your shoulders or hands. Net bags are especially awful; I bought a bunch when they became trendy a few years ago, but the netting broke in spots and I once left a trail of plums in my wake (kidding, but also, not kidding).
The best bag is a well-structured, sturdy one, like the gorgeous waxed canvas offering from Colony Co or the rectangular option from Veno—both stood tall and straight in the bagging area and were easy to fill with no flopping or sagging. This style of bag is oftentimes more spacious, too: I easily fit an 8-pack of seltzer, three 28-ounce cans of whole tomatoes, a large bag of brown sugar, a bag of grapes, two Roma tomatoes, and two avocados. Because of their tall, rigid shape, nothing shifted or squished. Plus, the small sturdy handles kept my soft writer’s hands in pristine condition; no ripstop nylon digging into my palms.
All that said, I do have a few collapsible bag picks since they're admittedly great in a pinch; you can easily crumple one up and tuck it in your purse, or keep one in your car’s glove compartment for an impromptu grocery run (they also double nicely as gym bags). They’re just not great for hauling loads of groceries, and if you do spring for one, avoid nets at all costs.
Stiffer, Rectangular Bottoms Provided SupportSerious Eats / Grace KellyThe bags I preferred (like the Colony Co and Veno) had semi-stiff, rectangular bottoms that didn’t sag; I could pick up the bag and not worry about items slipping toward the center or ending up in a jumbled heap. This was not the case with some of the collapsible bags, which sagged, causing items to shift around when carried. That said, if you want a set of collapsible bags to have on hand, some, like the BeeGreen bags, did have a somewhat flat, rectangular base which was better at keeping items in place.
A Good Bag Was Easy to Fill and CarrySerious Eats / Grace KellyBeyond sturdiness, which helped with filling and emptying a bag, I also liked bags that had wide openings that weren’t impeded by handles or pockets. The Capabunga bag was cute and sturdy, but it featured lots of pockets (with the theory being you could slot a carton of eggs, a bottle, or a baguette into them). While a nice idea, they got in the way; plus, if you have anything poking out of the pockets, like a celery bunch or a baguette, it impedes handle access. Speaking of handles, wide, stiff ones were best; the thin ripstop nylon and polyester bag handles dug into my palms and shoulder when loaded up.
Bigger Wasn’t Always Better Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhile it’s tempting to buy the biggest bag you can find, there’s a catch to all this space: you end up overstuffing the bag, making it heavy, bulky, and difficult to carry. This is exactly what happened with the Rachael Ray Jumbo Chillout Thermal Tote; I filled the massive 1.75 cubic foot bag to the brim, zipped it up, and then basically had to do a deadlift to hoist the thing out of my car’s trunk. This is not ideal. In the end, I preferred bags that yes, were capacious, but not SO big they were impossible to carry without throwing out your back. I also liked some more petite bags, like the BagPodz; they’re about the same size as a standard plastic grocery bag and are easy to carry since they don’t hold too much. That said, it does mean making multiple trips to the car to bring groceries inside.
Stitching and Construction Were Important for DurabilitySerious Eats / Grace KellyI didn’t have any issues with bags ripping or fraying in my tests, but upon further inspection, some were better constructed than others—and this was especially true of the nylon and polyester bags. While these materials are known for being durable (ripstop nylon is often what companies use to make hiking backpacks since it’s tough and fairly waterproof), if the stitching is poor, there’s more of a chance that one day you’ll unfurl your bag and find a ripped seam. While I did like the cheaper bags from BagPodz and BeeGreen, they only had single or double stitching holding them together. The Baggu had a single stitch AND a complex row of stitches underneath. All of these bags sailed through my durability tests, but I’m curious to see how they hold up over long-term testing.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Reusable Grocery Bag Serious Eats / Grace KellyA good reusable grocery bag should be durable and last a long time. It should also be easy to fill and unpack and have handles that don’t dig into your palms or shoulders when the bag’s loaded up. While I prefer stiffer, structured bags, if you like to have a few collapsible bags on hand for unexpected grocery runs, look for bags with a flat piece of material on the bottom (to keep items sorted), and solid, reinforced stitching.
Our Favorite Reusable Grocery BagsWhat we liked: I thought it was gimmicky at first glance (a reusable bag shaped like a paper bag?), but when I got my hands on it and my groceries in it, I had a large slice of humble pie. This is an excellent bag: It’s durable and spacious without being too big, and the stiff canvas keeps the bag standing upright and open when it’s time to checkout. The handles don’t dig into your hands, everything inside stays put, and it’s easy to carry—what more could you ask for? (I've also gotten multiple compliments from grocery store cashiers when I use it— just sayin'!)
What we didn’t like: If you want to buy multiples of this bag, it’s pricey. It’s also bulky when folded up.
Key Specs * Stated capacity: NA * Open dimensions: 17 x 12 x 7 inches * Weight limit: NA * Materials: Beeswax, canvas * Cleaning and care: Spot clean with a damp cloth
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: This spacious bag is lightweight and easy to stow, but sturdy and spacious when filled. I liked the flip-top zippered lid and wide opening, as well as the spacious rectangular shape; it was easy to add and layer goods without worrying about items shifting. The handles are wide and soft, too. Plus, this bag comes in packs of two.
What we didn’t like: The insulation isn’t very thick, so it’s not great for storing cold items for a long time. While the bottom is structured and rectangular, it isn’t super stiff and does sag when filled with heavier items.
Key Specs Stated capacity: 7.8 gallons * Open dimensions: 15.8 x 13 x 8.7 inches * Weight limit: 30 lbs * Materials: Recycled polypropylene polymer fabric * Cleaning and care:* NA
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: This bag is great if you have a long drive to the grocery store and want to keep perishables cool since it has an ice pack built into it—just fold the bag up and tuck it in the freezer a few hours before you head out. The bag is also quite spacious and pretty easy to fill, with a zipper that divides the opening.
What we didn’t like: While the bag stood upright at the checkout, I would have liked it if the opening had been designed differently. As it is, you have to hold the opening apart to fill the bag.
Key Specs Stated capacity: NA * Open dimensions: 14 x 12 x 7 inches * Weight limit: NA * Materials: Polyester canvas * Cleaning and care:* Wipe the cooler grocery bag thoroughly or hand wash the interior and spot clean the exterior; allow the bag to dry completely before freezing. Not machine washable.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: While I generally didn’t love floppy, collapsible bags, the bags in this set had a somewhat structured rectangular bottom, which made them easier to open and fill. The ripstop nylon is tough, too; I loaded the bags up with heavy items, like seltzer and sports drinks, without any wear or tear. Plus, you get 10 (colorful!) bags for a mere $1.75 each—which is a great deal considering a single Baggu bag (which is made of the same material and has a similar shape) costs $14.
What we didn’t like: The nylon handles do dig into your palms a bit, and the bags are floppy and more difficult to fill than a very structured bag. The stitching looks less durable than other similar bags tested.
Key Specs Bags in set: 10 * Stated capacity: NA * Open dimensions: 17.75 x 15 x 8.5 inches * Weight limit: 50 lbs * Materials: Ripstop nylon * Cleaning and care:* Machine-washable
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: This is a great set if you like toting smaller bags; while they’re still spacious and can hold a good amount, they aren’t as big as, say, the BeeGreen, which makes them easier to carry when full. They also have a rectangular bottom, which gives the floppy bags some structure when you’re filling them. They’re affordable, too, clocking in at $3.80 per bag.
What we didn’t like: The handles are small (you can’t slip them over your shoulder) and dig into your palms, and goods are more likely to shift around. The bags in this set are also more petite than other options in this review, so keep that in mind.
Key Specs Bags in set: 10 * Stated capacity: 2 to 3 grocery bags worth * Open dimensions: 15 x 15.8 x 4.7 inches * Weight limit: 50 lbs * Materials: Polyester * Cleaning and care:* Machine-washable
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: While this is a pricier bag (at $14 a pop), it had better engineering than some of the other nylon/polyester bags I tested, with multiple reinforced rows of stitching holding the fabric together. The Baggu is also spacious and is available in loads of fun patterns and colors.
What we didn’t like: As with other collapsible bags, filling the Baggu could be irritating; the handles slumped over and it was hard to keep the bag flat and open. The handles were also a bit smaller than the other collapsible bags, and I had more difficulty slipping them over my shoulder to carry. It’s also kind of expensive for a single bag, though I do think the quality is better.
Key Specs Stated capacity: 2 to 3 grocery bags worth * Open dimensions: 25.5 × 15.5 × 6 inches * Weight limit: 50 lbs * Materials: Ripstop nylon * Cleaning and care:* Machine-washable
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Competition* Junes the Market Tote: While this is a pretty bag, the slinky, itchy material was unpleasant to hold, and it was really hard to fill since it’s so floppy. The bag also sags quite a bit when full, which meant avocados and tomatoes got bashed up when packed with other ingredients. * Rachael Ray Jumbo Chillout Thermal Tote: This bag was just way too big! When packed to the gills, it was almost impossible to hoist and carry. That said, they do sell a smaller version (the Rachel Ray Chillout Thermal Tote, minus the jumbo), which I have and quite like; it’s easy to fill, sports a solid zipper, and is insulated. If you want a heavy-duty insulated bag, I’d recommend the smaller version. * CapaBunga Multi-Pocket Canvas Market Tote: This is a cute and sturdy bag, but the numerous pockets limited the overall interior space and made it more difficult to fill. That said, it was a great bag for toting wine and snacks to a party. * Wrapables Durable and Large Nylon Reusable Shopping Bag: The handles were small and dug into my shoulders, and the bag was cramped when full. * Full Circle Tote-Ally Reusable Grocery Tote: What a saggy bag! It was difficult to load and everything sunk towards the center when carried. The included produce bags were a nice addition, but not enough to make it a winner.
FAQsWhat’s the best material for a reusable grocery bag?Our favorite bag from Colony Co is made of waxed canvas, which is durable and makes it easy to keep the bag propped open at the checkout. We also liked ripstop nylon and polyester bags, two other hardy materials, though they are floppier and more difficult to fill.
What’s the best capacity for a reusable grocery bag? While you might think a larger bag is better, it’s really difficult to carry a bag bursting at the seams with stuff; instead, consider buying smaller bags (we liked bags that held two to three plastic grocery bags worth of stuff) or not filling them up completely, since they will be easier (and lighter) to tote.
How much weight can a reusable bag hold?It depends on the bag, but most options we tested held between 30 to 55 pounds. While you might think the ability to hold more weight is better, for the good of your shoulder or wrist/hand, you probably don’t want to tote 55 pounds of groceries in a single bag.
How do you store reusable grocery bags?Our favorite bags can be folded up (or hastily scrunched, in the case of polyester and nylon options) for easy storage. Some, like the Baggu, BagPodz, and BeeGreen, have small carrying pouches.
Can you wash reusable grocery bags?Most of the bags we tested can either be spot-cleaned or machine-washed (often with cold water), so just check the manufacturers instructions prior to cleaning.
Are reusable bags sanitary?Reusable bags are sanitary, just make sure to clean the bags if there is a spill (especially if it’s meat juice or dairy).
Why We’re the Experts* Grace Kelly is a commerce editor for Serious Eats, where she’s been reviewing gear for almost two years. * She has a background in environmental journalism and was a bartender and prep cook. * Grace tested 11 reusable grocery bags for over a month, examining how easy they were to fill and empty, and testing their durability. She loves grocery shopping (truly!), so rest assured that the bags in this review will be well-worn throughout long-term testing.
Serious Eats / Eric KleinbergHard-boiled eggs get extra attention during the springtime, thanks to their key role in Easter celebrations and on the Passover seder plate, but if you’re like us, you’re eating plenty of hard-boiled eggs year-round. “Put an egg on it” might get thrown around more for fried eggs than boiled ones, but the fact is that a hard-boiled egg or two makes many, many meals so much better. Here, we’ve rounded up some of our favorite recipes featuring hard-boiled eggs. If you don’t already have hard-boiled eggs on hand, start by checking out our egg guide to learn how to make perfectly boiled eggs that are also easy to peel, then dive into one of the recipes below. And for even more ideas, don’t miss Kelli’s clever suggestions for leftover Easter eggs.
Mushroom and Crushed Egg Tapas (Tapas de Setas con Huevo)J. Kenji López-AltThis recipe is straightforward yet the result is delicious—the dish highlights a few quality ingredients and is reminiscent of something you’d find at a tapas bar in Spain. It pairs your hard-boiled egg with sautéed mushrooms on ciabatta toast. The wild mushrooms, seasoned with thyme, garlic, and shallots, cook quickly and make your kitchen smell wonderful.
Son-in-Law EggsLeela PunyaratabandhuIf you make this dish, your boiled eggs are in for a serious makeover—they get deep-fried. Son-in-law eggs are a sensory adventure: the sour, salty, and sweet flavors associated with many Thai dishes are paired with crispy fried shallots and just a touch of heat from the sliced chiles. It's a must-make for anyone craving Thai cuisine.
Deviled EggsSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltEven if you have a go-to deviled egg recipe, we think you should give this one a whirl. Touches like using homemade instead of store-bought mayo, adding a bit of hot sauce and white wine vinegar to the filling, and garnishing the eggs with olive oil and crunchy sea salt takes these bad boys to the next level.
Beef Jerky EmpanadaSerious Eats / Kevin VaughnLooking for a dish that's a little less egg-forward but full of flavor? Try Kevin Vaughn's beef jerky empanada, inspired by his travels through Argentina. This savory treat features a simple dough filled with tender beef jerky, caramelized onions, hard-boiled eggs, and a blend of spices. These hand pies are perfect for sharing as appetizers but may disappear before landing on your table.
California Cobb SaladCarrie VasiosWe’ve given the classic Cobb a west coast spin by swapping out the traditional chicken for salmon in this salad that also swaps blue cheese for goat cheese (but still features a traditional Cobb’s bacon and hard-boiled eggs). Not only is this salad a great way to use hard-boiled eggs, but it would also be a fantastic use for store-bought or homemade hot-smoked salmon.
Japanese Potato SaladSerious Eats / Qi AiYou probably have a family recipe for potato salad, but if you have never made Japanese-style potato salad, you're missing out. The most crucial step is mashing the potatoes instead of cubing them. Boiled eggs and veggies are added, and the salad is seasoned with Kewpie mayo mixed with rice vinegar and Japanese hot mustard for a creamy, tart and slightly sweet side. If you happen to have some leftover ham, chop some up and add it to the potato salad too.
Pan BagnatSerious Eats / Jordan ProvostIf you’ve got hard-boiled eggs that taste good but are a little roughed up looking—with some “bruises” from Easter egg dye or nicks from peeling—just tuck them inside this Provençal sandwich, where they’ll be hidden and squashed alongside oil-oil packed tuna, anchovies, tomatoes, olives, and more. Serve the sandwiches up with a glass of rosé and imagine you’re in Nice. (If you are already in Nice, please send us the address where you’re staying and we’ll be there to join you within 24 hours.)
Kale and Onion PieThis dish transforms leftover boiled eggs, kale, and onions into a hearty filling for a savory pie. The best part about this pie is that there's no dough—the crust is made from a batter containing flour, mayo, and sour cream, and you simply pour it into the pie dish so no rolling, resting, or crimping is required. This recipe can easily be adapted to use other leafy greens in the filling, such as chard or spinach.
Golden Egg CurryRichard JungIn this Burmese-style curry, hard-boiled eggs are fried in peanut oil seasoned with turmeric, then nestled into a saucy curry with tomato, sautéed shallots, garlic, and chiles. Serve the curry alongside bowls of rice, for a super-comforting dinner or brunch.
Roasted Beet SaladSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltWe think this combo of roasted beets, goat cheese, and hard-boiled eggs garnished with tangy pomegranate seeds and crunchy Marcona almonds is just gorgeous—and it tastes damn good too.
Grilled Asparagus with Hard-Boiled Eggs and Cider VinaigretteJennifer OlveraThe pairing of asparagus and hard-boiled eggs is a classic one, and we love this take with a tangy cider vinaigrette. If you’re looking for something a little faster, you can simply steam your asparagus in the microwave until just tender (about three minutes) and garnish with grated or chopped hard-boiled eggs, a squeeze of lemon juice, and your favorite fruity olive oil.
The Best Egg Salad SandwichSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergFinally, here's a recipe that celebrates your hard-cooked eggs to the fullest: an egg salad sandwich. This version from J. Kenji López-Alt promises to be your best ever. If you're planning to make this sando, steam rather than boil your eggs for the creamiest consistency. Kenji determined that crushing your eggs by hand with a stiff whisk creates the perfect texture in your egg salad. Enhance it with a squeeze of lemon juice for acidity and a satisfying crunch from celery and scallions. All you need is some bread.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyIn my potato-centric worldview, there are two types of people: the pessimists, who view a basic baked spud as a bland and boring waste of carbohydrates, and the optimists, like myself, who view the baked potato as one of life’s greatest culinary joys. The potato-enthusiasts understand that a properly baked potato can stand on its own with just a bit of butter as a stellar side, but is also a perfect blank canvas for heaping with toppings like sour cream, chives, bacon, all the cheese you can handle, or whatever creative direction you choose to take with your baked potato. (I personally love gouda with sautéed mushrooms and garlic and a sprinkle of tarragon).
But to fully appreciate the loaded baked potato experience or even to simply savor an unloaded baked potato, the potato needs to be fully tender with a uniformly fluffy interior encased in properly crisped skin and well seasoned throughout so that every bite is delicious. The air fryer is the perfect way to create this ideal baked potato, and it does it much faster than a conventional oven too. With no need to preheat, a typical air fryer takes just 40 minutes to bake two fluffy, tender potatoes vs. over 20 minutes preheating time and about an hour cooking time in a conventional oven. Not only do you not have to wait for the air fryer to preheat, you also avoid heating up the whole oven for just two potatoes. The high heat and constant air flow of the air fryer also guarantees the skin crisps while the interior bakes evenly.
There are a few key steps to baking perfect potatoes in your air fryer—many of which overlap with the prep and finishing technique that Daniel has already discussed at length in his guide for how to bake the ultimate baked potato. Here’s a brief breakdown.
Tips for Getting Perfect Baked Potatoes in the Air FryerPuncture your potatoes: Jabbing your potatoes with a sharp knife or fork is more than just a great form of anger management—it also allows some steam and excess moisture to escape from the inside of the potatoes as they are cooking, which results in a drier and fluffier interior once cooked. It also eliminates the small risk of the steam building up inside the potato and causing it to explode (I admit that an exploding potato sounds kind of cool, but if you’ve ever cleaned potato fragments out of the inside of your oven, you know it’s not a great thing).
Oil and season your potatoes before cooking: Rubbing the potatoes with oil before baking turns the skin pleasantly crisp when baked, rather than leathery and tough. Simply use your hands to rub it all over, or you can be fancy like me and use a pastry brush for an even coating. Even when scrubbed thoroughly, potato skins still have an earthy taste because, well, they grow in the earth! I find that a light sprinkle of salt and pepper over the oiled skin seasons the exterior to cover up any unwanted lingering earthy flavors once baked.
Don’t preheat the air fryer but do bake at a high temperature: We found in side-by-side testing that preheating the air fryer made no difference in the final texture or cook time of the potato. So save yourself the five minutes of waiting for your air fryer to preheat. In our tests, we found that cooking the potatoes at 400℉ guaranteed the crisp skin we wanted, so don’t be afraid to crank up the heat on your air fryer.
Rest your potatoes: Remember the childhood game of hot potato where you’d pretend a ball was a steaming hot potato burning your fingers, and you needed to throw it as fast as you could? Well, we’re not playing that game here in real life. Avoid burning your fingers and just let the potatoes sit on a plate for a few minutes once they’re done cooking. They’ll still be plenty hot and steamy to enjoy, but not burn-the-skin-of-your-fingers level hot. Just make sure to not let the potatoes sit too long before slicing into them. As they cool the remaining steam inside the baked potato will turn back into water and turn the potatoes wet and gummy inside.
Butter and season the potatoes thoroughly after baking: This is Daniel’s technique for ensuring every bite of the potato is properly seasoned, and it’s worth the time. Once the potatoes are cool enough to handle, split each potato open from end to end and use a spoon to scoop the flesh into a bowl, then mix butter, salt, and pepper into the flesh before scooping the mixture back into the potato skins.
If this seems a bit fussy to you, you can technically skip this step and just cut open the potatoes and butter and season the cut tops of the flesh and mash it with a fork right in its skin, but they won’t be perfectly seasoned, and if you’ve just spent 40 minutes waiting for perfectly fluffy baked potatoes, don’t you want to spend the two extra minutes to season them properly? The answer is yes. I’m telling you to scoop and mash and reload.
Your gorgeous potato canvas is now properly prepped and ready to eat or top with fixings. Add whatever you want, such as the classics of sour cream, cheese, bacon bits, and chives, or experiment with whatever flavor combinations strike your fancy. I’d venture to say the final result is great enough to turn anyone into a baked potato devotee.
Using a fork or paring knife, lightly prick each potato all over several times. Rub each potato with oil. Sprinkle evenly with salt and pepper.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyPlace potatoes in air fryer basket, spaced evenly apart. Place basket in air fryer and cook at 400°F until the potato skin is crispy and a paring knife inserted into the center of the potatoes meets little to no resistance, about 45 minutes. (Center of potatoes should register between 205°F to 210°F with an instant-read thermometer.)
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyTransfer potatoes to a plate and let rest for 5 minutes. Slice each open lengthwise and scoop flesh into a mixing bowl. Add butter, season with salt and pepper, and roughly mash, just until butter is incorporated but potatoes are still chunky.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyScoop mashed potatoes back into skins. (You can refill each skin, making 2 potatoes, or use all the mashed potato to refill only one skin, making 1 overstuffed potato.) Using your hands, reshape each stuffed potato back into a classic baked potato shape.
Add toppings of your choice. To melt cheese, add it first, then return potatoes to the air fryer set at 400°Foven until cheese melts, about 30 seconds1 minute; alternatively, use a torch to melt cheese. Serve right away.
Special EquipmentAir fryer
Serious Eats / Kelli Solomon, Amanda SuarezI grew up in a craft-filled household, where every holiday was worthy of homemade decorations. When Easter came around, plastic eggs were hanging from trees, the bunny flag flew, and we dyed baskets full of eggs. Coloring the eggs kept me and my cousins busy for hours and away from my grandmother in the kitchen, so she could focus on cooking and sharing the latest family drama. The only problem was that after the holiday, there were always far too many leftover hard-boiled eggs, which my relatives and I quickly got tired of eating.
So what do you do with all those boiled eggs? Deviled eggs are absolutely an option, but they are not the only worthy use for leftover cooked eggs (the same goes for you, egg salad). Here are more exciting hard-boiled egg ideas that go beyond the basics—yes, I’m calling hard-boiled eggs exciting and I’m sticking with that.
Serious Eats / Kelli SolomonBoiling and Dyeing the EggsFirst and foremost, to have leftover Easter eggs, you need to have dyed some hard-boiled eggs. Take a peek at our egg guide to learn how to make perfectly boiled eggs that are also easy to peel, then dye them using a store-bought kit or with homemade Easter egg dye. Both can have beautiful results. For the Easter eggs pictured here, I mixed my own colors using gel food coloring and vinegar. No matter which path you choose, you may notice that a little bit of color bleeds through the shell and onto a few (or most) of your eggs. I say this bit of color adds some character. So resist the urge to boil more eggs, get to peeling those leftover Easter eggs, and try one of these ideas.
6 Clever Ideas for the EggsAfter years of repurposing leftover Easter Eggs (and cooking with hard-boiled eggs year-round), I’ve learned a few fun tricks.
Serious Eats / Kelli SolomonQuickly Cube Eggs for Salads, Sandwiches, and More Using a Baking RackTo quickly and uniformly cube eggs for salads, sandwiches, and garnishes, I skip dicing with a knife and use a baking rack to cube my eggs instead. Set yourself up with a large bowl and rack with a cross-wire weave. A 10-inch square or a quarter sheet size is easier to work with than a half-sheet rack, but use any size you have as long as it sits nicely atop your bowl. Push your peeled, hard-boiled eggs right through the grate and you’ll have eggs prepped for appetizers, salads, and sandwiches in no time. (This trick works wonders for mashing avocados for guacamole as well.)
Serious Eats / Kelli SolomonUse a Cheese Grater to Make Egg Shavings to Use As a GarnishIf you only have a single boiled egg (or even a half) to spare, consider using it as an elegant garnish on your salad, on top of sauced vegetables, or even pasta. Break out your cheese grater or microplane and dust your dish with the faintest hint of egg. The finely grated egg complements springtime vegetables like kale or asparagus (I particularly like it on freshly steamed asparagus with garlicky yogurt sauce).
Add Eggs to Your Breakfast BoardUntil it became a Tiktok trend most people didn’t associate charcuterie boards with breakfast, but boards can be enjoyed at any hour, even first thing in the morning. Waffles or pancakes, ham or bacon, hash browns or home fries—your breakfast board can include all your favorite breakfast items, including some of your sliced or halved hard-boiled eggs.
Serious Eats / Rezel KealohaAdd an Eggy Surprise to Your MeatloafStart with a classic meatloaf, but add your boiled eggs to the interior for an extra treat that makes for a beautiful slice of meat. Follow your recipe, but when it’s time to add the meat mixture to your loaf pan, add half of the mixture, then place a row of five whole peeled, boiled eggs inside before adding the rest of the meat mixture, and bake as usual. Or make embutido (pictured above), a Filipino-style pork meatloaf filled with hard-boiled eggs and Chinese sausage.
Serious Eats / Kelli SolomonPickle Your EggsIf you’re a pickle lover (like I am), and you’ve just finished off a jar of your favorite, don’t toss out the brine. Instead, do like I did and use the leftover pickle juice to pickle your hard-boiled eggs. (You can also make some pickle rice—yes, seriously.) Transfer the pickle juice to a small pot, heat until it comes to a boil, then take it off the heat and let it cool to room temperature. Meanwhile, peel and place your hard-boiled eggs in a mason jar (or right back into the empty pickle jar). Pour the brine over your boiled eggs. Seal tightly, and transfer to the fridge for at least eight hours to allow the pickle juice to permeate the eggs. You can also level up this hack using homemade or store-bought pickled beets to make bright red beet eggs.
Make Colorful Easter BreadIf you’re really proud of the beautiful eggs you’ve dyed (I was pretty proud of how mine turned out), why not show them off a little longer by baking a festive Easter bread that makes them part of your table’s centerpieces? Start by making a sweet, yeasted dough like brioche or choreg, an Armenian Easter bread. Instead of rolling it out as directed, braid the dough into a wreath, and nestle your prettiest four or five eggs evenly spaced around the ring. Adding sprinkles is optional. Either way, your colorful eggs take center stage.
For even more eggy ideas, check out these 12 hard-boiled egg recipes.
Serious Eats / Vy TranSalmon is one of the most popular fish in America, and I count myself among its fans. I love this versatile, pleasantly fatty fish grilled, baked, and sautéed, but my favorite way to cook salmon is to hot smoke it in a smoker or on a grill. Hot-smoked salmon is silky and tender on the inside with a delicately chewy exterior capped off with a smoky, slightly sweet flavor. It’s great to enjoy on its own, flaked and stirred into fluffy rice or scrambled eggs, or as a worthy substitute for store-bought smoked salmon for bagels.
Serious Eats / Vy TranWhile delicate fish can be daunting to cook on a grill or in a smoker because it’s prone to sticking to grill grates, tearing, and overcooking, salmon’s relatively high fat content and firm flesh mean it holds up well when cooked on a grill or in a smoker. And, as I’ll outline below, hot smoking is also easier than cold smoking, making hot-smoked salmon a great—and surprisingly easy—dish when you want to treat yourself and your family or guests. It’s even relatively economical, especially when you compare home-smoked salmon to store-bought smoked salmon or lox. Here’s everything you need to know about making hot-smoked salmon at home.
Hot Smoking vs. Cold SmokingIn the times before refrigeration, both hot smoking and cold smoking were common ways to preserve salmon and other foods. These techniques were used around the world, including by indigenous people in pre-colonial North America and Canada. When salmon is smoked, it goes through a curing process and a slight dehydration period that prevents bacteria from spoiling the food as fast as it would for fresh salmon.
The two popular approaches to smoking salmon are the cold-smoking method and the hot-smoking method. Hot-smoked salmon is brined briefly (for a few hours) and cooks as it smokes, typically at around 225°F. Cold-smoked salmon is cured for at least one day and often longer and then smoked at a much lower temperature, usually around 90°F and for a much longer period of time, usually at least 12 hours.
Serious Eats / Vy TranAs a result, hot- and cold-smoked salmon look and taste very different. Hot-smoked salmon more closely resembles conventionally cooked salmon, with firm flesh that easily flakes apart. Cold-smoked salmon’s texture is silkier and moist—more like gravlax or lox—and cuts well into delicate, translucent slices. And since hot-smoked salmon is cooked at a higher temperature, the wood burns at a faster rate and emits more smoke, which results in a stronger smoky flavor in hot-smoked salmon than cold-smoked salmon. Cold-smoked salmon is also notably more salty due to its extended curing time.
Cold-smoked salmon is delicious, but making it at home is tricky to do properly and safely and it takes longer to make than hot-smoked salmon. If the salmon is not cured properly before cold-smoking, it can be an ideal breeding ground for bacteria. Plus monitoring and maintaining a low smoking temperature for 12 or more hours is a lot of work. When hot smoking, the fish smokes for only an hour and doesn’t require hours of temperature control and babysitting the way cold smoked salmon does. That’s why I prefer hot smoking, and why I think it’s the more approachable and better choice for smoking salmon at home.
The basic method for hot smoking salmon is simple, though it does involve several steps: Salt (and often sugar) are applied to the salmon before it's brined in the fridge, then it's rinsed and goes back into the fridge to dry before the final step of smoking over a grill or in a smoker. While each step is easy, you do need to pay attention to the details to get silky, rich, and perfectly cooked hot-smoked salmon at home. Here’s how to select the best salmon possible, brine, dry, and smoke it for a final result that is as gorgeous as it is delicious.
The Best Salmon for Hot SmokingI prefer to smoke a big skin-on side of salmon. It’s a great showpiece for entertaining, and if you’re not serving a large crowd, it can be cut up and refrigerated or frozen for later use. The larger cut also cooks more slowly, allowing time to develop more smoke flavor while cooking. The most obvious advice I’ll give for selecting salmon for smoking at home is to use the best quality salmon available and the variety that fits within your budget. But here’s the kicker: best quality doesn’t always mean fresh. What’s most important is to look for fish that is still pristine, whether it was previously frozen or is truly fresh (as in never frozen). Lots of good fish gets frozen right on the boat, including almost all of the wild salmon sold from the Pacific Northwest and Alaska.
If buying fresh or previously frozen salmon at the fish counter, look for salmon with firm flesh that is glistening and doesn't show impressions from fingerprints or any tearing. The flesh should appear firm and should not smell overtly “fishy”—it should smell briny at most. You can also buy frozen salmon and thaw it yourself in the fridge just before curing. When choosing frozen salmon, use a purveyor you trust, and once it’s thawed, look for the same markers of quality as you would for fresh. (Serious Eats’ associate editorial director, Megan O. Steintrager, swears by the fish from her wild salmon CSA, which she found through the Local Catch Seafood Finder.)
Serious Eats / Vy TranBeyond the apparent recommendation of using high quality fish, salmon with a higher fat content is ideal for smoking. The flavor of smoke pairs well with the rich flavor of fatty fish (just like with fatty meats) and fat also insulates the meat during its extended dry-heat cooking time to guarantee the fish doesn’t dry out and develop an unpleasant tacky texture when cooked. And the good news is that you have two great options: farm-raised salmon for a delicious smoked salmon that’s relatively affordable and wild king salmon for a deluxe smoked salmon that’s well worth the price if you can swing it.
Farm-raised Atlantic salmon—the only type of Atlantic salmon you’ll find—has the highest fat content of all salmon types and is a great option in this recipe. I’ll admit, I don’t often sing the praises of farm-raised salmon. It generally has a noticeably duller flavor than its wild counterpart, but its unctuousness makes it great for smoking. Plus farm-raised salmon is readily available throughout the country and it is much more affordable than wild salmon. Seek out high-quality farm-raised salmon from a brick-and-mortar or online purveyor you trust—several of us have had good luck with Wulf’s Fish, just to list one option.
An even better choice is wild king salmon, also known as Chinook salmon. King salmon has a high-fat content, deep red coloring, and extra flaky texture that is ideal for smoking, but it has a limited season when it’s available fresh, especially for those of us who live outside of the Pacific Northwest and Alaska, though you can find excellent wild salmon, including king salmon, online from sources that ship throughout the US. Wild sockeye salmon is another popular variety that is less fatty than king salmon, but its balance of leanness and firmer texture holds up well to the smoking process without falling apart. It also tends to be less expensive than king salmon. While I prefer the fattiness and rich flavor of king salmon, sockeye is an excellent choice if you prefer a slightly leaner fish. Truly you can smoke any variety of wild salmon, but some varieties will be less fatty and more prone to drying out while smoking. Ultimately, it comes down to availability and personal preference.
If you do smoke wild salmon, I recommend cooking the salmon to a slightly lower temperature than farmed to lower the risk of the leaner wild fish drying out and losing its more intense flavor—the recipe below reflects this recommendation.
For the Best Texture and Flavor, Dry Brine Your SalmonSimilar to other large cuts of meat like brisket or pork butt, brining the salmon for an extended time is critical to season the fish deeply rather than just on the surface. Brining also gives the fish a firmer, denser texture, which minimizes its risk of falling apart when cooking and makes it more pleasant to eat.
To land on the best brining technique and timing, I tried smoking a few smaller pieces of salmon side by side: one plain without brining as a control, one dry-brined with salt, one dry-brined with equal parts by volume of salt and sugar, one soaked in a salt-and-sugar wet brine, and one soaked in an all-salt wet brine. After I applied each brine, I let the salmon sit in the fridge for a set period of time (more on that below), then rinsed it and allowed it to dry well before smoking.
Serious Eats / Vy TranWithout any brine, salmon smoked at the low temperature called for in this recipe tasted more watery and had a mushy texture. Both the wet-brined and dry-brined salmon samples came out with a comparably pleasant, firmer texture. This confirmed what I already knew—that brining the fish is a must. Based on previous testing we’ve done, I know that dry-brining is faster and easier than wet-brining thanks to the fact that there’s no need to transfer a giant tub of water in and out of the refrigerator with dry-brining, so I went with that more practical approach. I also preferred the taste of salmon brined with both salt and sugar rather than salt alone. Once the fish was smoked, the faint sweetness from the sugar in the brine balanced the salty, smoky rich fish.
With the brining method and ingredients determined, I next tested various brining times, including one hour, three hours, five hours, and seven hours. After tasting the four samples side by side, I decided the best curing time was five hours. When the salmon was left to dry-brine for less time, the fish’s texture was noticeably softer and tasted underseasoned, and when brined for longer than five hours, the final fish tasted too salty.
Why You Need to Let a Dry, Tacky Surface Form on the Fish Before SmokingOnce the fish is properly seasoned and firmed up from dry-brining, we then need to rinse the excess salt and sugar off of the entire fillet to make the fish palatable (it would be way too salty and sweet without this rinsing step). But then we have a wet piece of fish, and if you just chuck it in the smoker while still wet, the smoke will cling to the water and slide off the surface of the fish, which means our fish won’t get that delectable smoky flavor. We need to create a dry, clingy surface that the smoke can adhere to from the start of cooking. One of the most important steps to smoking salmon, whether it’s hot- or cold-smoked, is to dry the salmon to form what is called a pellicle on the skin after dry-brining and rinsing and before smoking.
Serious Eats / Vy TranThe salt and sugar in the dry brine dissolve some of the proteins in the salmon and draw them to the surface, and as water evaporates while the salmon is sitting and drying in the fridge, the proteins bond together to form the sticky film that is the pellicle. The pellicle coating helps smoke adhere to the salmon during cooking. When the fish goes on the grill or smoker, you want it moist enough to capture the flavorful vapors in the smoke but not wet, which would cause the smoke to slide off. I found that a drying time anywhere from five to 24 hours dried out the surface of the salmon just enough to ensure a robust smoke flavor.
Tips for Hot Smoking SalmonOnce the pellicle is formed and the salmon has dried in the fridge, it’s time to pull it out and move on to the main event: the actual smoking! Here are some tips for proper smoking.
Don't Forget the WoodWood is key to getting the wonderful smoky flavor in your fish. Roughly three-inch wood chunks or wood chips will both work well. If you do opt for wood chips, I recommend wrapping them in an aluminum foil packet with cut vents on top to ensure the smaller pieces burn slowly over the course of salmon’s cooking time, and the wood chips don’t burn too quickly before the fish has a chance to absorb the smoke flavor.
Maintain a a Steady TemperatureWhether using a smoker or charcoal or gas grill, make sure to maintain the cooking temperature between 225 to 275°F. At this steady heat level the salmon will have enough time to absorb a robust smoky flavor in the same time it takes to cook through to a final temperature of 120°F for wild salmon and 125°F for farm-raised salmon.
The easiest way to maintain this heat level with a charcoal grill is to light just a half chimney’s worth of coals and nestle them onto one side of the grill so that the salmon can cook away from the coals on the cooler side of the grill using the indirect heat of the coals. Adding a quart of unlit coals with the lit coals extends the cooking time without raising the internal grill temperature. The unlit coals will slowly ignite over time and continue to heat while some of the initially lit coals begin to die down. It’s a hands-off approach to making sure the grill retains its temperature while the salmon is cooking.
Put Your Salmon in a SlingUsing a greased foil sling makes moving the large fillet on and off the grill easy and minimizes the risk of tearing the fish. With a gorgeous silky smoked fillet, the only question left is if you should serve it warm for family and friends or divide it into pieces and squirrel it away in the refrigerator or freezer just for you to enjoy in the future.
In a small bowl, combine sugar and salt. Place salmon on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet. Spread sugar mixture evenly over the entire surface of flesh, pressing gently to adhere. Refrigerate, uncovered, for 5 hours.
Serious Eats / Vy TranRinse salmon under cold running water, rubbing gently with your hands to remove any remaining sugar-salt mixture. Return to wire rack and pat dry with paper towels. Refrigerate, uncovered, until the surface of the fish is tacky to the touch and matte, at least 5 to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Vy TranIf using wood chips: Using a double layer of aluminum foil or a single layer of heavy-duty foil, wrap 2 cups wood chips into a roughly 8 by 5-inch foil packet. (Make sure chips do not poke holes in sides or bottom of packet. ) Cut 2-inch slits evenly spaced in the top of the packet.
Serious Eats / Vy TranFor a smoker: Heat and maintain the smoker temperature between 225 to 275°F (105 to 135℃) following manufacturer’s guidelines and tips. Nestle prepared wood chip packet or three (3-inch) wood chunks into coals or heat source (see notes if using a pellet smoker). Set cooking grate in place. Go to step 7.
For a charcoal grill: Open bottom vent halfway. Light large chimney starter half filled with charcoal briquettes (3 quarts). Place 1 quart unlit briquettes on 1 side of grill. When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour into a steeply banked pile over unlit briquettes. Place the prepared wood chip packet on coals with slits facing up or nestle three (3-inch) wood chunks into coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot (about 300°F; 145℃) and filled with smoke, about 5 minutes. Go to step 7.
Serious Eats / Vy Tran6. For a gas grill: Remove cooking grate and place wood chip packet (do not use wood chunks for a gas grill) directly on primary burner (The primary burner on a gas grill is the burner that is connected closest to the gas source. It is the burner that you ignite first on the grill). Set grate in place; turn primary burner to high (leave other burners off); cover; and heat grill until hot (about 350℉) and filled with smoke, about 15 minutes. Turn primary burner to medium. (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature between 225 to 275°F (105 to 135℃).
Clean and oil cooking grate. Double layer 2 pieces of heavy-duty foil and cut into an 18 by 6-inch rectangle. Spray lightly with vegetable oil spray. Place the prepared foil on the cooking grate (centered on the grate if using a smoker and on the cooler side of the grill for a charcoal or gas grill). Center the salmon on the prepared foil. Cover grill (positioning lid vent over salmon if using charcoal) and cook, while maintaining grill temperature between 225 to 275°F (105 to 135℃), until center of thickest part of fillet registers 120°F for wild salmon or 125°F for farm-raised salmon, and the flesh is still translucent when cut into with paring knife, 50 to 75 minutes.
Serious Eats / Vy TranUsing the foil as a sling, carefully transfer the salmon to a platter. Using a spatula if needed, carefully slide foil out from beneath the salmon. Serve immediately or allow to cool to room temperature before refrigerating.
Serious Eats / Vy TranSpecial EquipmentWire rack and rimmed baking sheet, smoker or charcoal grill or gas grill, 2 cups wood chips or three 3-inch wood chunks, such as oak or hickory, for smoking, aluminum foil
NotesThe recipe can be halved, using a 2-pound center-cut fillet and half as much sugar and salt in the cure; the cooking time will be about 50 minutes.
I recommend farmed Atlantic salmon or wild king salmon. Wild sockeye salmon is leaner but also works well.
If using a pellet smoker, do not add wood chunks; instead follow manufacturer’s instructions for using pellets.
Make-Ahead and Storage
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI am to eggs as Oprah is to bread—I absolutely love them. I could eat eggs almost everyday without getting tired of them, never mind my cholesterol. Eggs offer endless applications for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and everything in between. They're easy to make and there's something for everyone. Fried! Scrambled! Boiled! Talk about a reliable and versatile pal. There are very few dishes that can't find improvement with the addition of an egg. But egg sandwiches? Without a doubt the best way to consume them. Whether you're looking for a filling meal or in need of a hangover remedy, these egg sandwiches are just the thing to satisfy your needs. And despite their losses in this year's Starch Madness tournament, we still love them just the same!
Egg and Pâté Bánh MìSerious Eats / Vy TranA bánh mì can be made multiple ways, but with homemade chicken pâté, garlicky aioli, and a savory omelette? Say less.
Bacon, Egg, and Cheese SandwichSerious Eats/Amanda SuarezSalty, rich, gooey, crispy. A good BEC is deeply satisfying—a welcome cure for everything from a hangover to heartbreak.
Pan Bagnat (Niçoise Tuna and Tomato SandwichSerious Eats / Jordan ProvostA Niçoise salad, but make it a sandwich.
Hong Kong-Style Spam and Egg SandwichSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezA pile of velvety scrambled eggs and savory Spam between two slices of toasted white bread—this Hong-Kong classic delights in every way.
Roti John (Malaysian Griddled Omelette Sandwich)Serious Eats / Michelle YipWho is John? Doesn't matter when his sandwich is this savory Malaysian delight loaded with a curry-beef omelette and stuffed with the toppings of your choice.
The Best Egg Salad SandwichSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergA good egg salad sandwich needs nothing more than perfectly cooked eggs, a touch of acidity, and crunch.
Sabich Sandwiches (Pitas With Eggplant, Eggs, Hummus, and Tahini)Drippy, messy, and shamelessly moist and flavorful.
5-Ingredient Pork Roll (AKA Taylor Ham)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIs it the best regional sandwich? Depends on who you ask. But does it have the perfect combination of bread, protein, and cheese? Without a doubt, yes!
Serious Eats / Kevin LiangMy mom is hard to buy for. She always says she doesn’t want anything. But, of course, that’s not true. (Mom: I’m not falling for it!) And with a lack of guidance, I go rogue. Often, I land on a great gift (she uses her Alexa in the kitchen all the time to set timers and listen to podcasts while she cooks). Occasionally, though, I’ll get a dud. For example, she never charges her temperature-controlled Ember smart mug, which entirely defeats its purpose.
If you, like me, are looking for inspiration for Mother’s Day gifts, welcome. Below, you’ll find 25 kitchen-related Mother’s Day ideas that will put you squarely in the “great gift” category with the mom or parental figure in your life.
I’ve owned three of our favorite coffee grinders (job perks, I know) and the Breville has been my favorite. It accurately calculates grind size and time and dispenses coffee grounds with very little chaff winding up on the counter. It comes in some fun colors, too, like Red Velvet and Olive Tapenade.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThis candle smells delightfully and subtly like Fruity Pebbles. The vanilla and cinnamon Milk + Sugar candle is stronger, if the cereal candle is out of stock.
“My mother appreciates the art of practical gift giving (I received deodorant and shaving razors last Christmas), so I always err on the side of unfussy, useful presents for her,” commerce editor Rochelle Bilow says. “A drawer organizer would be a perfect choice for her this year—she just renovated her kitchen!”
Our favorite charcuterie board is handmade and oh-so-elegant, with contrasting stripes of wood. Snag some nice cheese, salami, and nice crackers to go with it.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinI recently signed up for this coffee subscription and have massively enjoyed getting a new, freshly roasted bag of coffee delivered to my doorstep every few weeks. I’ll be getting it for my mom this year (don’t worry, she thinks this site is called Serious Recipes).
Whether your mom or parental figure likes to grill, roast, bake, or deep-fry, an instant-read thermometer will be their friend, ensuring accuracy for all. The ThermoWorks Thermapen ONE has a lightning-fast response time, automatic backlight, and a rotating screen.
My dad brings my mom a cappuccino in bed every morning, which is just incredibly lovely. Whether they’re making it for themselves or having someone do it for them, an espresso machine is the kind of top-notch, big-spender gift they’ll use daily. One of our favorite espresso machines is the Breville Bambino Plus. It’s easier to make good espresso with it than it is bad.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonI love Levain Bakery’s packaging: the blue ribbons cinch it for me. Their new lemon cookies taste like spring, have delightfully squidgy centers, and are tart, not too sweet, and loaded with white chocolate.
If they’re a baker (or even not—these both make great display pieces!), a new, eye-catching cake stand may be the ticket. You could even make a cake and give it to them on the cake stand! They’ll be like “Oh, you made me a cake—thank you!” Then you can say, “I did, but the cake stand’s yours, too.” Lovely!
A plushy standing mat is half decor, half highly functional investment. This one from House of Noa “reminded us of a memory foam mattress” and comes in a range of patterns and lengths. (You might want to measure their space beforehand!)
Serious Eats / Fred HardyDairy fans will rejoice getting a gift of specially selected cheeses. A 3-month subscription is pricey, but you can also buy one-off curated boxes.
Great olive oil doesn’t have to cost a lot–and this Portuguese brand is proof. It’s grassy, floral, and fruity. Tie a ribbon around the neck of this bottle and your gift is done.
These petite, orb-like wine glasses are ideal for small pours, as well as cocktails. I have a set that I reach for over my full-size glasses. I love their colorful handles.
I gave my mom an insulated tumbler to long-term test and she has been drinking more water because of it. A huge step up from her previous zero glasses a day! This model from Owala is one of the few I tried that didn’t leak and it has excellent cold retention.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmDuring the pandemic, my mom got very into making cocktails. I think any at-home bartender would appreciate this sleek bar cart with its wood construction and bronze details. I’ve owned this model for several years, and it’s a stunner that holds a stupendous amount of bottles (and bar tools).
My colleague Grace Kelly and I ate ourselves sick testing boxed chocolates so you can have the very best (and so can Mom). L.A. Burdick’s chocolates were some of our favorites, with crisp chocolate outer shells and beautiful fillings. Also, look at these chocolate mice! Irresistible. “Take a gander at their chocolate chip cookies, too,” Grace says. “Baked on the day they ship, they have an ooey gooey ganache center that makes them a real treat.” Grace has been sending these as her go-to gift lately, and the giftees have been delighted.
Our favorite electric wine opener opens bottles in a flash (you just have to press down on the cork to engage it). It’s also pricey, which makes it a great gift.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThis Berry Ghia is tart, juicy, and not at all bitter. I love mixing it with seltzer and loads of ice. Its pink and purple packaging is adorable, too.
If Mom uses cookbooks regularly, a stand that keeps a book upright and on their selected recipe is a thoughtful present. No more having to prop open the page with random kitchen objects!
You could call this mortar and pestle beautiful…and you’d be right. Its smooth, marble interior and wooden pestle excels at making super-smooth sauces, like pesto.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikHonestly, I’d be thrilled to receive this seltzer as a gift. The flavors are spectacular, and this bundle includes two of my favorites (for those wondering, my other top picks are Pineapple Holy Basil and Grapefruit Elderflower). For the adventurous, the Flavor of the Month subscription is also wicked fun.
Our favorite steak knives slice like butter…and look good doing it. The ones from Material have pastel-hued handles and come with a wooden block for storage.
My dad’s the paella maker in our family, but if yours is different than mine, then this sturdy paella pan works great indoors and on the grill. Pair it with a bag of bomba rice.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayBurlap and Barrel sell some of our favorite spices. “My favorite cinnamon of all time (and yes, I do keep a running list) is the cinnamon verum from Burlap & Barrel," Rochelle says. This set doesn’t include that particular spice, but it does have their Royal Cinnamon, which is also excellent.
Our favorite tortilla press comes in eye-catching colors like pastel green Espuma and bright yellow Elote. Plus, it makes the best, thin tortillas. No form over function here!
FAQsWhen is Mother’s Day this year?Mother’s Day 2024 is on Sunday, May 12th.
What day is Mother’s Day? Mother’s Day is always on a Sunday. Specifically, this year, it’s on May 12, 2024.
Why We’re the Experts* Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm is the senior commerce editor for Serious Eats. She’s been with the site since 2021. * Riddley previously worked for America’s Test Kitchen, Food52, and EatingWell. * She’s written our reviews of dinnerware sets, air fryers, and more.
Getty ImagesIn the early days of the internet, hopes ran high. It would be the great equalizer. It would democratize everything. Information would flow freely in ways no human could have ever imagined. In some ways, this has been true. But judging by the fatberg of "content" that has floated to the top of news feeds and search results everywhere, it's been just as much a failure.
This, it seems, is what happens when algorithms make the behaviors of users a critical signal in the "is this valuable?" equation. Because no matter how much we might like to pretend otherwise, most of us can't resist clicking on headlines like, "I Just Tried Harry Styles' Genius Toilet Paper Hack and My Life Is Now a Guaranteed Swipe Right." The more we click, the more we see stuff like that.
Which brings me to the latest in asinine internet ideas that never should have seen the light of day: the viral roast chicken deboning hack, which involves smashing a rotisserie chicken in a plastic bag. I caught wind of it a couple weeks ago as TikTok influencers followed by traffic-thirsty food sites published breathless endorsements of what is clearly a bad idea. "I tried it!" they proclaimed. It works and I'll never do it another way ever again!!!! Sure it works—about as well as moisturizing your skin with rendered beef fat, but that doesn't mean you should throw all your CeraVe in the trash.
I decided to write about how dumb the method is, but then I remembered that Serious Eats is about actually testing things. Could I really denounce it without trying it? Actually, yeah, I'm pretty sure I could, but proof is better than my confidence. So, in the spirit of the internet as we unfortunately know it today...
I Tried the Viral Chicken-Boning Hack and It Has Not Changed My Life One BitThough I questioned my sanity for even bothering to test this out, I bought two rotisserie chickens, one for the method in question and the other to do what I knew would be the better way. Can you guess which method was better?
Method 1: Boning Rotisserie Chicken in a BagWhat It Is: This hack purports to be the best way to shred and bone a rotisserie chicken. It involves placing a warm rotisserie chicken in a gallon zipper-lock freezer bag, sealing the bag, and then pressing down all over the bird to separate the meat from the bones. In videos on social media, this is followed by people reaching into the bag of flattened poultry and pulling out bones in wide-eyed amazement, exclaiming that this method is much easier, quicker, and mess-free than any other.
Here's how it went:
- After sliding a chicken into the bag, I realized I needed to wash my hands before I could seal the zipper lock. Note: This purportedly easy method requires an extra hand-washing step because you probably don't want to touch the outside of the zipper-lock bag with hands that have just been holding a greasy bird.
- I then began to press down. The bag immediately popped open as my pressing forced air out of it. Even after trying to push out the air and resealing, my bag popped open a second time, at which point I gave up trying to keep the bag closed and just did the best I could to mash the bird while preventing it from spilling out onto the counter. Note: The bag popped open because of air trapped inside it, which means that you not only have to put a chicken in the bag, but you also have to fiddle with pressing out excess air around the uneven topography (and hollow cavity) of a whole chicken. This is not difficult to do, but it is a small but annoying detail that proponents of the method fail to note. Perhaps the fact that the bag popped open twice was somehow a personal failing of mine, though I suspect I won't be the only person who finds it difficult to keep the bag sealed while mashing the bird.
- As I pressed on the chicken, the bones did indeed come out easily, but I was left with a question: How, through the mess of chicken mash, skin, and bone, could I tell if I'd pressed enough? Note: There is nothing impressive about the bones coming free easily—rotisserie chicken is cooked until well done and the bones are always on the verge of falling out. This sloppy method also makes it hard to know what is happening in the bag of squashed chicken, raising the risk that your chicken is going to get over-smushed in the effort to fully debone the bird. Smushed chicken is of very limited utility.
- Once I was fairly sure I'd pressed enough, I then had to fish out all the bones. But in the process of smashing the bones out of the chicken, I'd also rearranged the bird's skeleton, distributing its pieces throughout the mash. Ribs and vertebrae that were once in order were now scattered and buried in a pile of chicken mush.
Note: Mashing the bones out of the chicken in this way is disorganized and leads to the additional need to sift through the bag afterwards in the hopes that you find all the bones. I struggled to find one of my bird's needle-like fibulae that was once reliably located in the drumstick, and, upon eating my smushed chicken meat later that night, discovered I had missed several more small bones and had to spit them out onto my plate. * When I was finished, I was left with a zipper-lock bag that was too greasy to be easily washed and reused, equally greasy bone-searching hands, an unappealing mash of chicken in an inconsistent array of shred sizes, and lingering bone fragments that I had to hope wouldn't choke me or my kids.
Total Time: 5 minutes 30 seconds from bag stuffing through to giving up on bone hunting, and as it turns out, I shouldn't have given up when I did because there were still tiny bones mixed into the mashed chicken.
Method 2: The Obviously Better Boning MethodWith my second rotisserie chicken, I tore off the legs and, in a couple deft moves, pulled the meat and bones apart, separating them into neat piles as I went. The bones came out instantly, as rotisserie chicken bones do, and I was able to keep track of them because I was working through the chicken methodically. The leg meat mostly remained in nice sized pieces and I had no concerns about bones being left behind. Then I tore off the breast meat in just a few large sections, popped the tender morsels from the meaty areas of the back, and finally pulled the bones from the wings.
This method:
- was faster;
- required no extra effort to hunt for bones;
- ensured my chicken meat was truly free of all bones;
- did not waste a plastic bag;
- required no extra trips to the sink to wash my hands beyond once before and once after;
- and didn't do any unnecessary dirtying of cookware because I shredded the chicken right in the container it came in, leaving the bones in a pile to be tossed with the container and placing the meat in a mixing bowl for whatever use I had planned.
- Bonus: Because I had pulled the meat off in larger pieces, I was free to decide whether to leave as-is, shred further, or chop. Those are decisions I, as a cook, like to be able to make.
Total Time: 3 minutes 10 seconds.
ConclusionThe smash-in-bag method is neither fast, effective, nor environmentally friendly, whereas simply pulling the meat off the bird with your hands is easy, faster, less wasteful, and yielded chicken free of bone fragments.
I hope I've convinced you that you don't need to waste a plastic bag to pull the meat off a rotisserie chicken. But I also hope that my larger point is clear: A test performed in a vacuum and lacking any kind of control—not to mention lacking a tester with real culinary experience—is unlikely to lead to valuable insights. But of course good advice isn't really the goal, grabbing your attention is, and tomorrow's life-changing hack is already being filmed to keep it.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeWhen you’re building a hoagie sandwich, it’s easy to focus on the medley of savory deli meats, cheeses, and condiments, but for a truly great hoagie the namesake roll is just as important as what’s inside. A hoagie roll supports a hefty amount of meats, cheeses, condiments, and toppings and to do so it needs to retain its overall structure while the interior remains soft and slightly chewy for a pleasant eating experience. If it’s too squishy or lacks structure,the roll will either start to fall apart, or worse yet, when you sink your teeth into it all the fillings will just slide out the back. A well-made hoagie roll should have a tight interior crumb that’s enclosed by a paper-thin crust that’s easy to bite through. A perfect hoagie roll’s exterior should be so light and crisp that it flakes onto your plate while you’re enjoying it—if there’s no messy crumb trail of your hoagie left behind, then it probably wasn’t a great hoagie roll. Sure, you could pick up a bag of rolls at your local grocery store, but for a truly sublime hoagie experience, you need freshly baked rolls.
Sandwiches built on fresh, perfect hoagie rolls were a staple of my weekend routine while I was growing up in Philadelphia. After my Saturday morning swim lessons one of my parents and I would often swing by our local corner store, Tilden Market, to pick the ingredients for lunchtime deli sandwiches for our family of five. Like many corner stores in Philly, Tilden Market made great hoagies to order, but my frugal parents always bought all the fixings—bread, deli meats, sliced provolone, a tomato, a head of lettuce, and, of course, Herr’s potato chips—to assemble our sandwich plates at home. While my mom or dad would wait at the deli counter for the sliced meat and cheese, I’d head over to the bread bins and pick out the rolls. These hoagie rolls were freshly baked from a local bakery and a far cry from their packaged supermarket counterparts.
Now that I live outside the mid Atlantic area, I don’t have a local hoagie shop to pick up freshly baked hoagie rolls. Sure, supermarket sub or long rolls will do in a pinch, but they’re a pale shade of the freshly baked rolls that I grew up enjoying. The supermarket versions are often dull in flavor with a cottony, dry, and squishy interior that lacks enough structure to fully support a sandwich and is enclosed in a soft crust that doesn’t flake at all.
Through rounds of testing and tasting dozens and dozens of rolls I've developed what I believe to be the ultimate hoagie roll recipe—and it requires just a handful of ingredients and a mere 30 minutes of active prep time. Here’s a breakdown of the ingredients, mixing method, and shaping technique I use to make bakery-worthy hoagie rolls at home. Biting into one brings me right back to Tilden Market, and I can practically hear my siblings bickering over who gets the last slice of roast beef.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeThe Key Ingredients for the Best Hoagie RollsSerious Eats / Debbie WeeIn the world of breads, there are two basic categories: lean and enriched. Lean breads such as French bread and hard rolls have a chewier texture with more bite and a hard crust, while enriched ones such as brioche and challah, are, well, richer. But this hoagie roll recipe actually tiptoes that line and has characteristics of both a lean and an enriched bread. At first taste and glance, these hoagie rolls have the signature white color, tight crumb, and mild flavor of a lean bread, somewhat similar to many other sandwich breads. But the hoagie roll’s balance of a tender yet sturdy texture with a hint of developed rich flavor is achieved by enriching the dough slightly. Here’s a breakdown of what each ingredient contributes to the bread, starting with the flour.
Bread Flour: Since I add fat for tenderness and elasticity, I need to balance that with a higher protein flour because this is a bread that needs some heft.It’s a balancing act to get a tender dough with a slight chew and a uniform and tight interior crumb, and the higher protein ratio in bread flour (12 to 14%) compared to all-purpose flour (9 to 11% percentage) ensures that the dough is strong enough to stretch without tearing as air bubbles form and develop inside the dough during proofing. When I made the dough with all-purpose flour during my tests, the dough was noticeably more slack and was unable to get the proper gluten development needed to support the structure in the tightly shaped individual long rolls.
Fat: A small amount of fat—vegetable oil in this case—tenderizes the dough. The fat coats the gluten strands and makes both the crumb and the crust more tender; it also makes the crumb more finely grained for an even and smooth surface to smear your preferred condiment across. Where the high gluten bread flour helps to develop structure, the fat balances that so the interior is sturdy but still soft.
Another perk to enriching the dough is that breads that are made with fat usually don't dry out as quickly as unenriched breads.
While fat is used for texture in these rolls, it shouldn’t impart an assertive flavor. Hoagie rolls should not have a discernible buttery or oily richness or flavor. So I prefer to stick to a neutral oil, such as the vegetable oil in this recipe, and limit the recipe to a small enough quantity of oil that it provides all of the listed benefits without tipping the dough into noticeably enriched territory.
Egg: One egg goes a long way in this dough. The egg makes the bread lighter and fluffier, without it tasting overtly “eggy” or enriched like brioche or challah, both of which use many eggs. The fat in the yolk inhibits gluten formation just as the oil does; the effect is subtle, loosening the dough only slightly to expand and puff up more. The egg white on the other hand acts as a coagulant and sets the crumb, making it pleasantly bouncier. The result is a hoagie roll that has just the right amount of chew and strength while remaining tender enough to enjoy bite after bite.
The roll’s crust is also greatly affected by the egg. The proteins and fat in the egg promote the Maillard reaction in the outer crust and help it turn crispier. Adding an egg to the dough also adds a hint of richness from the yolk's fat.
Yeast: Yeast is another critical component of the dough, responsible for producing the gas that will raise and aerate the rolls. But just as I had to shift from all-purpose flour to bread flour to maintain the necessary gluten level given the presence of fat in this dough, I also have to adjust yeast quantities. This is because yeast is impacted by the presence of fat as well, fermenting more slowly. While we can always proof for longer to give the yeast extra time, we can also simply increase the amount of yeast (in baker's percentages, I've bumped the yeast up to 1.8% from the more typical 1.5% of most white sandwich bread recipes).
Salt: Salt not only builds great flavor in bread, it also strengthens the gluten structure. Gluten proteins naturally repel one another, but the chloride ions in salt help them overcome that repulsion and stick together. The activity of the salt tightens the gluten network so the dough is firmer and easier to shape and hold its shape during baking.
Sugar: The small amount of sugar in this recipe boosts the yeast and kickstarts the fermentation/proofing process. At just .5%, the baker's percentage of sugar in this recipe is low—anything above 5% generally slows down the fermentation process, but at a lower percentage, the sugar feeds the yeast. The sugar also adds a very subtle sweetness to the final bread.
Water: While using bread flour and a proper mixing method are key in attaining the hoagie roll’s signature tight crumb, how much water is mixed into the dough also plays a major role. Hydration has a huge impact on crumb structure, with wetter doughs allowing air bubbles to balloon more, leading to a more irregular crumb with some very large bubbles. A lower hydration dough does the opposite: it's taut enough to constrict the air bubbles' expansion, leading to a crumb with a much smaller, tighter bubble distribution. The result is a bread that is denser and has a more robust structure—one that can contain wet and fatty fillings and condiments without them just dripping out and soaking through an overly open crumb. The hydration percentage—amount of water in the dough—used here is 58%. This is less than what you would find in more rustic loaves with an open, uneven crumb, such as our baguette recipe (in that one, the recipe developer, Andrew Janjigian, uses a 73% hydration level for the dough). Limiting the water amount to under 60% keeps the dough taut so that as it proofs and carbon dioxide builds up the dough is strong enough to more effectively trap the gas, producing smaller, tighter, even bubbles.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeThe MethodTo get hoagie rolls with a soft, tight crumb structure and texture, you need to develop a stretchy, gluten-rich dough that is slightly sticky so it can hold all of the air bubbles the yeast will make. The flour type and ingredient ratios both play major roles in achieving this, but it’s also essential to mix, proof, and shape your dough properly to ensure good gluten development.
It's Okay to Overmix the Dough The gluten development at the mixing stage is crucial for the ease of folding, rolling, and shaping the individual rolls after proofing. The mixing method is fairly straightforward, but there are a couple of details to keep in mind.
First, save yourself the arm strength and use a stand mixer with this recipe. It’s faster and more efficient than trying to knead the dough by hand, which would take over 20 minutes of vigorous kneading to achieve gluten structure, and still isn’t as strong as what the stand mixer will produce.
Another crucial thing to keep in mind is that once you've incorporated the ingredients in the mixer bowl at a lower speed, it's essential to turn up the speed to develop the gluten. Let the dough slap around in the bowl until it’s smooth, and don’t cut the listed eight minutes of kneading time short even if the dough appears smooth before your timer goes off. You can’t overmix the dough at this stage, but you can under-mix it and not build enough gluten strength.
Punching the Dough After Proofing Is KeyProofing the dough until it doubles in size and punching it down afterwards forces larger air bubbles to form, then deflates and redistributes them more evenly in the dough—it's the exact opposite strategy of a no-knead dough, which is famous for the more uneven crumb structure that is produced when bubbles are allowed to form and grow freely. Here we want the gas bubbles to form in a controlled setting. The dough’s structure is created by the tight gluten network encasing and holding in the gas that’s redistributed by pressing down after the initial proof and later with multiple folds while shaping.
Fold Then Roll When ShapingShaping the rolls with a series of envelope folds before rolling into logs further distributes the small interior gas bubbles evenly within the rolls. The result is rolls that have a consistent tight and even crumb structure. The folding and rolling technique transforms the dough from a short rectangle into 8-inch long tubes, with each step in the sequence elongating the dough gradually and evenly for uniform logs.
Keep the Oven Heat Moderate and Add Some Steam While BakingThese individually sized rolls bake best at a steady temperature of 350℉. The egg and sugar in the dough make the bread more prone to burning, so the rolls should not be baked at very high temperatures as the crust may go too dark too soon. Additionally, steam is key to giving this bread its signature light, airy, and crackly-on-the-outside shell. To create steam in your home oven, you simply need a spray bottle of water to spritz the inside of the oven when placing the loaves inside to bake. Wait for the rolls to cool fully before slicing open and loading with your favorite sandwich fixings.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeIn the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together flour, yeast, and salt. In a 4-cup liquid measuring cup or large bowl, whisk water, oil, egg, and sugar until sugar is dissolved.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeUsing a dough hook on low speed, slowly drizzle water mixture into flour mixture and mix, scraping down bowl as needed, until cohesive dough forms and no dry flour remains, about 2 minutes. Increase mixer speed to medium-low and knead until dough is smooth and elastic and clears sides of bowl but still sticks to the bottom, about 8 minutes.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeTransfer dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead by hand to form a smooth round ball, about 1 minute. In a lightly greased large bowl, place the dough seam side down, cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap or a large plate, and let rise at room temperature, 68 to 74℉ (20 to 23 ℃), until the dough is doubled in size, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeLine 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Press down on dough to deflate and transfer the dough to a clean work surface. Using a bench scraper or sharp knife, cut dough into quarters, then cut each quarter in half. (You should have 8 pieces of dough that weigh about 155g each.) Cover loosely with greased plastic wrap.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeWorking with 1 piece of dough at a time (while remaining pieces are still covered), press dough piece into a 4-inch square.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeFold the upper third of the dough toward the center and press gently to seal. Fold the lower third of the dough to the center, mimicking an envelope fold, and press gently to seal the center seam where the folds meet. You should now have a roughly 5- by 3-inch rectangle.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeFold the dough in half toward you, using your thumb to create a crease along the center of the dough. Seal with the heel of your other hand as you work your way along the fold, without pressing down on the loaf, use the heel of your hand to reinforce the seal.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeCup one hand over the center of the log and, without pushing down, gently roll the log back and forth to reinforce the seal.You should have a log that is roughly 5 inches long and 2 inches thick.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeGently stretch and roll the dough into an 8 -inch long by 1 1/2-inches thick cylinder. Place one hand at each end of the cylinder and move your hands back and forth in opposite directions to gently roll the ends of the cylinder under your palms to form rounded, slightly tapered ends. Transfer to a prepared baking sheet and repeat with remaining dough portions, leaving 3 inches of space between the 4 loaves on each sheet.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeCover loosely with kitchen towel or greased plastic wrap and proof until nearly doubled in size and the dough springs back minimally when poked gently with your knuckle, 30 to 60 minutes.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeWhile the shaped rolls proof, adjust one oven rack to the upper-middle position and a second oven rack the lower-middle position and heat oven to 350℉ (175℃). Using a bread lame or sharp paring knife, make one 1/4-inch-deep slash lengthwise along the top of each roll, starting and stopping about 1/2 inch from each end. Using a spray bottle of water, mist the surface of each loaf.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeWorking quickly, place loaves in the oven, then mist the inside walls of the oven with water. Bake rolls until golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes, switching and rotating sheets halfway through baking. Let rolls sit for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire racks and cool completely. Slice open and load up with your favorite sandwich fillings and serve.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeSpecial EquipmentStand mixer with dough hook attachment, 2 rimmed baking sheets
Make-Ahead and StorageBaked rolls can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days or wrapped individually and frozen for up to 2 months.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteI don't know about you, but the best part of my workday is all of the eating that happens throughout it. (This, of course, said with total respect for and enjoyment of my coworkers!) Breakfast? I'm thrilled! Snack time #1? I'm elated! Snack time #2? I'm buoyed all over again! But lunch? Lunch is always more disappointing than I think it's going to be. And while I oftentimes try to jazz up whatever I'm squishing together at 6 a.m. for 11.30 a.m.-2 p.m. consumption, I also oftentimes fail.
But I've recently realized I don't have to fail if I go back to basics. Between a few of the below quick-and-painless (and so very good!) sandwich recipes and our 2024 Starch Madness bracket, I've found that returning to the straightforward sandwich can absolutely change the trajectory of a work day. Or any day, for that matter!
Below, you'll find some quick sandwiches that come together quickly, hold their integrity well, and are deeply satisfying despite the lack-of-lift it takes to create them. Happy lunching!
Classic Mayo-Dressed Tuna Salad SandwichSerious Eats / Qi AiAn all-time top-performing Serious Eats recipe, this bright and easy tuna salad sandwich should be in your rotation once a week.
Ham & Cheese SandwichSerious Eats/Amanda SuarezYes, like that ham & cheese. But for grown-ups!
Smoked Salmon & Dill Tea SandwichesSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezA quick and sophisticated tea time moment...in edible form.
The Best Classic Chicken Salad SandwichSerious Eats / Qi AiAnother all-time great Serious Eats recipe, this chicken salad sandwich comes through in a hearty, nostalgic way.
PB&J SandwichSerious Eats / Jordan Provost...Yes, like that PB&J. But for grown-ups! Kinda!
The Best Egg Salad SandwichSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergYou've never had a creamier egg salad experience. And paired with bread!? And veggies!? Divine.
Pastrami Sandwich on RyeSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezAssemble a little, enjoy a lot. You'll be thinking about this sandwich for days.
Kaya ToastSerious Eats / Michelle YipOnce you've got kaya jam in your fridge, you'll exist on it for weeks.
Roast Beef SandwichSerious Eats / Kevin WhiteThis roast beef sandwich (1) requires two hands and (2) will have you excited for lunch the night before.
Muffuletta SandwichSerious Eats / Mateja Zvirotic AndrijanicBriny, hefty, and filling, muffulettas made at home are always a good idea.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziToaster ovens do more than toast. These versatile appliances can cook pizza, roast small sheet-pan dinners, and bake beautifully browned chocolate chip cookies. But like many a kitchen workhorse, after use comes grime—crumbs, grease, burnt-on bits.
I’m no stranger to toaster ovens. I spent weeks testing 12 of them by cooking loads of frozen foods, toast, and broiled goods (and cleaning up the mess afterward). As a result, I found creative ways to scour glass windows, drip trays, and even the exterior of the ovens, which are prone to smudges. But what’s the best way to get your toaster oven looking like new without getting tennis, er, toaster elbow? To find out, I got tips from Karen Diep, a member of the product team at Breville (who makes some of our favorite toaster ovens and air fryer toaster ovens). I then tested several popular cleaning methods to find the most effective way to care for the appliance.
Unplug Before You ScrubSerious Eats / Madeline MuzziAlways ensure your toaster oven is unplugged and completely cool before cleaning it, even the exterior. A clean toaster oven is great, but it's not as important as protecting your fingers from burns or electrical shocks.
Tips for Cleaning the ExteriorSerious Eats / Grace KellySure, the outside of your oven won’t see as much action as the racks or sheet tray, but it still needs to be wiped down. My toaster oven sits on a rack in the corner of my kitchen and accumulates dust and debris over time. It’s usually easy to wipe away dust, but, in the case of toaster ovens, things can get sticky. This is because the exteriors heat up while in use, and this heat can transform any oil and dust into a film. Regularly wiping down the exterior of your oven with a soapy sponge or towel and cleaning spray can help prevent this, but if you forget (we all do!), a grease-cutting cleaner like Bar Keeper’s Friend or Krud Kutter will make short work of any sticky residue.
Diep recommends avoiding caustic cleaners and abrasive scrubbing tools for toaster ovens as they can “scratch off paint (on colorful ovens) and the non-stick surface.” Lightly abrasive materials, though, may help with stuck-on stains. Diep notes that she considers Mr. Clean Magic Erasers a “godsend” for toaster oven cleanup.
How to Clean the InteriorSerious Eats / Madeline MuzziToaster oven sizes vary widely but, generally speaking, they’re small-ish. This can make it difficult to reach under or clean around the heating element (this is why our favorite toaster ovens have removable crumb trays). The interior is also where some of the most stubborn stains pop up, including the bottom of the oven and the glass viewing window, which can get gunked up if your toaster oven has air fryer capabilities or a convection fan or you're cooking something particularly splattery, like a roast chicken.
To clean the interior, start by removing components like the drip tray or racks. You can soak these in the sink or apply a little elbow grease (if needed) with the coarse side of a sponge. I also like to sprinkle a little Bar Keeper’s Friend onto a particularly dirty drip tray, add some water, scrub a little, then let it sit for a bit before rinsing—this usually gets out any stubborn grease stains.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziTo clean the interior oven walls, choose a gentle material—heavy-duty cleaning tools like steel wool can scratch the surface. I found that lightly abrasive materials, like baking soda or specialty sponges, did a decent job. Mr. Clean Magic Erasers work well for removing light browning on the door, glass, or side walls, but tough bits of stuck-on food can tear them to shreds. For particularly tricky smudges, I make a paste of baking soda and water, apply it to stuck-on stains, and let it sit for 30 minutes. After it soaks, you should be able to wipe it away with a paper towel or microfiber cloth.
As for the cleaning element itself, Diep recommends leaving it alone, since "these elements can break very easily if pressure is applied.” Any drips that fall directly onto the heating element will burn off on their own over time (just open your windows!).
Cleaning the Crumb Tray and Sheet PanSerious Eats / Madeline MuzziFor tough stains on crumb trays or sheet pans, Diep recommends working your way up by starting with the least abrasive cleaning agents, such as a soapy sponge, to the hardcore cleaning supplies, like Magic Erasers or grease cutters if stains don’t wipe off easily.
I also often turn to baking soda—it’s cheap, versatile, and non-toxic. Start by making a paste out of baking soda and water—smear this all over the surface of your pan and let it sit for about 30 minutes. Then, rub the mixture in with a paper towel or a Brillo pad; you’ll see the mixture pick up color as it loosens stains.
If you need to dial it up a notch, hydrogen peroxide can increase cleaning power, since it'll react with the baking soda. This generates a bubbly foam—and it also creates a mild bleaching effect when its oxygen molecules are released. After everything is clean, just rinse and dry thoroughly.
FAQsHow often should you clean a toaster oven?Regular cleaning will prevent stains and drips from getting out of hand and ultimately make this task easier. Depending on how often you use your toaster oven, we recommend cleaning about once a week.
How do you get baked on grease out of a toaster oven? We’ve found that lightly abrasive cleaning tools like Magic Erasers and baking soda can lift stains without scratching surfaces.
Can I use vinegar to clean my toaster oven? Vinegar can be a helpful cleaning tool—particularly when it’s used in conjunction with baking soda. On its own, vinegar lacks the abrasive power to remove tough stains. When it’s combined with baking soda it catalyzes a chemical reaction that adds tons of stain-lifting power. Be sure to rinse dishes after cleaning to avoid introducing off-flavors to your food.
Why We’re the Experts * Madeline Muzzi is a freelance writer with extensive experience writing about cooking gear. * She’s written numerous pieces for Serious Eats, including a toaster oven review, a deep dive on juicers, and more. * She spoke to Karen Diep, a member of the product team at Breville, to get tips on cleaning best practices for toaster ovens. * She also tested a variety of cleaning methods on her Balmuda toaster oven.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor as long as I can remember, my husband and I have started most Sundays with a pile of French toast or fluffy pancakes, big cups of coffee, a leisurely Scrabble game, and—when we really feel like treating ourselves—a plate of crispy, savory bacon. When bacon is on our Sunday morning menu, we almost always make it in our small but mighty air fryer. The handy appliance is the reason my family and I eat a proper meal most days; I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve chucked a handful of vegetables or some kind of protein into the air fryer when I need to get dinner on the table quickly. Though the air fryer isn’t the best appliance for everything—I certainly wouldn’t rely on it to bake a birthday cake—it is, hands down, my favorite way to quickly prepare bacon that’s both crispy and mess free.
Like convection ovens, air fryers work by circulating hot air for efficient heating and cooking—and because they’re much smaller than standard ovens, air fryers require much less time to heat up. The excellent circulation means air fryers cook food incredibly quickly and does a stellar job of browning and crisping, making it ideal for many of our favorite dishes, like chicken wings, Brussels sprouts, and bacon.
There are plenty of other good ways to cook bacon, including on the stove, in the oven, and even sous vide. But as Daniel once wrote, the “best” method really depends on how many people you’re feeding, how you like your bacon, and whether you plan on incorporating it into another recipe, like a quiche or salad. If you’re cooking for a large crowd, it may make sense to do several trays of bacon in your oven. But if you’re only cooking for one or two people, the air fryer is a quick and easy way to make ultra-crisp bacon without creating a giant mess of greasy splatters: All the fat collects in the bottom of the basket, making it easy for you to scrape into the trash or into a jar to repurpose. (Bacon fat bread crumbs, anyone?)
The Best Temperature for Air Fryer BaconBoth Kenji and Daniel have found 375º to 425ºF (190º to 220ºC) to be a good temperature range for cooking bacon in the oven. But because the air fryer is so much more efficient at generating and circulating heat than a conventional oven, you don’t need as high of a temperature to get crisp bacon. Our testing found that 350ºF (175ºC) was the ideal temperature for cooking bacon in an air fryer, producing tender-crisp bacon at 10 minutes and crunchier, more brittle bacon at the 13 minute mark. The lower temperature helps to effectively render the pork’s fat, making it less greasy.
Cooking at a lower temperature also reduces the risk of your air fryer smoking, as the bacon is less likely to burn. Even so, we still recommend removing any excess fat and wiping out the air fryer basket between batches to prevent smoking. (I’ll take this opportunity to add that the best way to prevent the appliance from smoking up is to clean it thoroughly after each use. Food that gets stuck on the heating element can burn, creating an unpleasant aroma and flavor that can permeate whatever you’re cooking.)
Does Preheating Your Air Fryer Make a Difference?You’ll notice that we’ve called for preheating the air fryer here. In the past, we’ve found several advantages to starting bacon in a cold oven or pan, including the fact that it's efficient, allowing the fat to begin to render as the bacon heats up with the oven. But because the air fryer is so good at heating up quickly and so efficient at cooking and crisping, whether you start with a cold or preheated air fryer makes very little difference in the time it takes your bacon to cook. With that in mind, we’ve recommended preheating as it removes the question of how quickly different air fryer models heat up and whether that has an impact on timings. By starting everyone on equal footing, the recipe should work consistently for everyone.
With an air fryer, bacon is a speedy, zero-fuss affair that takes about 10 minutes to cook. And once you try it for the first time, I suspect you may not want to make bacon any other way.
Set air fryer to 350°F and preheat for 10 minutes. Place bacon in the basket, trying not to overlap (it’s okay if the bacon comes up the sides of the basket slightly). Cook, using tongs to flip halfway through, for 8 to 10 minutes for tender-crisp and 10 to 12 minutes for shattering-crisp bacon. (For thick-cut bacon, cook for 12 minutes for tender-crisp and 14 to 15 minutes for shattering-crisp, flipping halfway through).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer the bacon onto a plate lined with paper towels and allow it to drain. Serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentAir fryer, tongs
NotesDepending on the air fryer you have (or how crispy you’d like your bacon), you may have to adjust the cooking time.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe bacon can be made ahead of time and reheated in the air fryer. If you plan to reheat the bacon, undercook the bacon slightly. To reheat bacon in the air fryer, preheat air fryer to 350ºF (175ºC), place bacon in basket, and heat until warmed through, about 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Victor ProtasioWe're deep into week two of our fifth annual Starch Madness tournament, and this year, it's all about those sandwiches. Stacked high as the sky or cut at an angle (no cutting vertically here, you monsters), there's something on the list for everyone. Relatedly: Who said a sandwich has to be stuffed with meat? It's merely a vehicle to consume your lunch one-handedly—the rest is up to you. Stuff it with veggies, stuff it with cheese, stuff it with veggies and cheese, or go ahead and make it sweet with some PB&J, why don't you? Whatever you're in the mood for, rest assured these 15 vegetarian sandwiches will make you forget all about the meat.
Japanese Fruit Sando (Fruit Sandwich)Serious Eats / Debbie WeeNestle strawberries, mangoes, or kiwis into a thick cloud of whipped cream—then sandwich it all together between pillowy milk bread for a delightful treat.
PB&JSerious Eats / Jordan ProvostDaniel gave us an in-depth discussion of the art of the peanut butter and jelly sandwich—but whether it really requires a recipe is TBD.
Classic Tomato SandwichSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezA Southern tomato sandwich is all about showing off the peak-of-season summer tomatoes.
Hong Kong-Style French ToastSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezWith a custardy interior that oozes peanut butter and a generous drizzle of condensed milk, this is the breakfast of champions.
Bread Pakora (Potato Fritter Sandwich)Serious Eats / Kanika and Jatin SharmaDipped in a chickpea flour batter and fried, these spiced potato sandwiches are a favorite snack for many across India.
Cucumber SandwichesSerious Eats / Victor ProtasioCool, crisp, refreshing, and...very little more. That's the cucumber sandwich for you!
Grilled Cheese SandwichSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezOur recipe offers the very best method for making a classic grilled cheese sandwich.
Kaya ToastSerious Eats / Michelle YipLayer kaya—a rich, velvety coconut jam with deep butterscotch notes—with thick slabs of butter for a sweet, tropical breakfast moment.
Vada Pav (Indian Deep-Fried Potato Balls on Rolls)Serious Eats / Kanika and JatinThis Indian specialty features spiced, deep-fried potato balls layered on rolls with savory garlic and a bright cilantro and mint chutney.
Chip ButtySerious Eats / Amanda SuarezFried potatoes sandwiched between two slices of buttered, untoasted white bread? It’s bloody delicious, I promise.
Piadina (Italian Flatbread Sandwich)Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteHeaps of arugula and creamy stracchino or burrata are just the beginning for where you can take this Italian flatbread.
Egg Salad SandwichSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergThe keys to a better egg salad? Perfectly cooked eggs, a touch of acidity, and crunch.
Vanilla Ice Cream SandwichesSerious Eats / Jen CauseyRecreate this childhood favorite, wax paper wrapping and all.
Mozzarella in Carrozza (Italian Fried Mozzarella Sandwiches)Serious Eats / Qi AiBreaded, deep-fried, satisfying, and dramatic! This is a mozz in carozza at its finest.
Sabich Sandwiches (Pitas With Eggplant, Eggs, Hummus, and Tahini)Allow us to present to you all the components of a perfect sandwich: something fried, saucy, pickled, and an egg.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariOpen any bottle of orange blossom water and you’re likely to first think “that’s nice! Aromatherapy!” or “oh, wow. Perfume?” But make no mistake—this ingredient and its fruity, floral scent brings to life some of the sweetest, most beloved desserts.
Serious Eats / Nader NehravariA cousin to rose water but not as widely known, orange blossom water is a powerful ingredient that is most prominently used in Middle Eastern and North African cuisines. We asked Nader Mehravari, Serious Eats contributor and Persian cooking expert, to walk us through the intricacies of the ingredient to learn more about what it is, how it’s made, and how to use it in the kitchen.
What Is Orange Blossom Water?While orange extract is made from the orange fruit itself, orange blossom water is the essence captured from the flowers of the bitter orange tree (which are also referred to as Seville oranges, its name a nod to the Spanish city). “In spring, when the oranges bloom, the blossoms are collected [and] each blossom gives you four or five tiny petals,” says Mehravari, noting this process isn’t dissimilar from rose water’s distillation. “Those white petals are then typically boiled in water in a typical distillation process used to convert the aromatic steam that's coming from the boiling water into orange blossom water.” Seville oranges are not often grown industrially in the US—although Mehravari has his own tree in his backyard in southern California—so most orange blossom water sold here is imported.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariMany believe that Seville oranges originated in Spain, but they likely hail from Southeast Asia. They were brought to the Middle East and North Africa, and then introduced in Spain by Moorish invaders in the 8th century. Orange blossom water was likely used in perfumes and for medicinal purposes before it was introduced as a culinary ingredient. “Since orange blossom water is harder to produce, more expensive, and less available [than rose water], it wasn't used for culinary purposes as much,” he says. “Most historical recipes and cookbooks talk about adding rose water. Orange blossom is usually a secondary substitute.”
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariIn addition to its sweeter aroma, the ingredient has a slightly bitter flavor that’s often the first noticeable note upon consumption. The water itself is a clear, slightly golden-tinged liquid.
How to Buy and Store Orange Blossom WaterOrange blossom water can be found at most Middle Eastern or international markets, as well as at specialty markets and online. You’ll often find it next to—wait for it—rose water. Some of the most popular orange blossom water brands include Cortas and Sadaf (Mehravari noted that he performed a taste test of a handful of popular brands, and these turned out to be his favorites, along with Golchin).
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariThough orange blossom water is made from bitter oranges, its scent should be as close to sweet oranges as possible. When determining the freshness of a bottle you’ve had laying around, you can peel a sweet orange, squeeze the peel, and then compare the scent to the water.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariWhen storing, a bottle of orange blossom water should be tightly closed and, like many spices, tucked into a cool, dark place where it will last about a year before losing flavor. There’s no need to refrigerate the product.
How to Cook With Orange Blossom WaterAlthough orange blossom water is most commonly used in Middle Eastern and North African cuisines, it’s occasionally incorporated in French desserts such as gibassier, a breakfast pastry, and pompe à l'huile, an olive oil bread typically served around Christmas in Provence. The water is used more in sweet applications than savory. It is also often incorporated into desserts that feature a sweet syrup, like basbousa bel ashta, baklava, and kanafeh. Given its strong aroma and flavor, it’s best to start with small amounts, like half a teaspoon, then adjust accordingly.
While orange blossom water and rose water have different flavors, they are often used interchangeably, as they both offer floral notes to whatever they touch. While Mehravari’s recipes for sholeh-zard and fāloodeh both call for rose water, he notes that you can easily use orange blossom water instead—whether it’s all you have around or because you simply prefer the flavor.
Outside of French, North African, and Middle Eastern cuisines, Mehravari says orange blossom water pairs exceptionally well with chocolate. You can incorporate a small amount into any chocolate dessert of your choosing—think custards, brownies, and even ice cream. It also pairs well with nuts like pistachios and walnuts, as well as sweet, warm spices like cinnamon, cloves, and anise, and it’s particularly wonderful in many different pastry applications. The ingredient can also be used in beverages and cocktails to impart its fruity, floral flavor.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariOnce you become more familiar with orange blossom water, it might just end up replacing rose water in your pantry. Or, if you’re anything like Mehravari, you might end up storing them side by side and learning to appreciate them both equally.
Serious Eats / Liz VoltzCajun andouille is a heavily seasoned, coarse-grained pork sausage that's been cured and smoked. The andouille you find in most supermarkets is often stuffed in standard sausage link or kielbasa-sized casings and ground relatively fine. Traditional Cajun andouille, as produced by outfits like Jacob's, Wayne Jacob's, and Bailey's, is made with large chunks of pork and stuffed into wide beef casings. Regardless of what type of andouille sausage you're able to find, rest assured that it will impart a smoky spicy richness to everything you add it to. Below are some of our favorite andouille sausage recipes.
Cajun Gumbo With Chicken and Andouille SausageSerious Eats / Vicky WasikCajun gumbo is the tomato-free version of this legendary and completely customizable Louisiana stew. The characteristic flavor of this gumbo comes from the dark roux, which requires a little patience and a little stirring to get just right. Roux hassles aside, we promise that this rich, spicy Cajun stew is worth the effort.
Creole-Style Red Jambalaya With Chicken, Sausage, and ShrimpSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis New Orleans classic is loaded with andouille sausage, chicken, shrimp, and tomatoes. Daniel's recipe calls for baking the jambalaya in the oven, which keeps the rice from scorching and eliminates the need to stir midway through cooking.
Pressure Cooker Black Bean Soup With Sausage and Cumin-Lime Sour CreamSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis hearty soup features silky-smooth beans, savory mushrooms, and chunks of spicy, smoky andouille sausage. With the help of a pressure cooker, it comes together in an hour (but tastes like it's been simmering for much longer). A fat dollop of seasoned sour cream, and dinner is served. For a heartier stew, try Kenji's recipe for pressure cooker chicken and black bean stew, which also features andouille.
New Orleans–Style Red Beans and RiceSerious Eats / Liz VoltzMaking red beans and rice from scratch is easy; all it takes is beans, vegetables, some cured pork and sausage, and patience. Kenji's take on this classic dish includes a pound of andouille sliced into coins and browned, as well as a smoked ham hock.
Cajun Burgers With Spicy RémouladeSerious Eats / Morgan EisenbergFor this imaginative Cajun mash-up, we combine chunks of andouille sausage and chuck in a food processor for an extra-flavorful home-ground patty. Each burger is topped with the Cajun trinity of thinly sliced bell pepper, onion, and celery, then topped with blue cheese and spicy rémoulade.
Low-Country Shrimp Boil With Spicy RemouladeSerious Eats / Jennifer OlveraThis spicy, finger-lickin' shrimp boil has the makings of a bib-requisite backyard bash. Any smoked sausage can be used here, but andouille really makes the whole boil sing.
Hearty One-Pot Black-Eyed Pea Stew With Kale and AndouilleSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThis easy black-eyed pea stew with spicy andouille and hearty kale is a flavor-packed one-pot meal. The soup gets better as it sits, developing flavor in the fridge overnight.
Lentils with Andouille SausageSerious Eats / Yasmin FahrIn this recipe, pan-fried andouille is sliced into thick coins and served atop green lentils that have been simmered in chicken broth. This simple dish is then finished off with some parsley, freshly squeezed lemon juice, and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.
Serious Eats / Marcus MillanAmazon’s very first Big Spring Sale ends tonight at midnight PST, but there’s still time to score great discounts on cookware, tools, appliances, and more. As the weather warms up, our cravings for hearty meals are usurped by a renewed appetite for all things frozen. The familiar Mr. Softee jingle is the soundtrack to spring, but if you’re anything like us, you’ve also thought about experimenting with homemade ice cream.
This spring, put your curiosities to rest. For an easy way to make professional-quality ice cream, ditch the no-churn recipes and snag one of our test-winning ice cream makers from Cuisinart before discounts disappear.
Cuisinart Ice Cream Maker Deals at Amazon The Best Ice Cream Maker: Cuisinart 1.5-Quart Frozen Yogurt, Ice Cream, & Sorbet Maker * The Best Larger Capacity Ice Cream Maker: Cuisinart Pure Indulgence 2-Qt. Ice Cream Maker * The Best Ice Cream Maker for Ice Cream on Demand:* Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker
Cuisinart 1.5-Quart Frozen Yogurt, Ice Cream, & Sorbet MakerAmazonWhy It Won Our ReviewSimple, straightforward, and speedy, this ice cream maker has been Serious Eats’ test-winning pick for years. While it’s small (measuring 9.5 by 9 by 11.25 inches), affordable (now only $56), and unassuming, it consistently churns out smooth, fluffy ice cream you won’t want to stop eating. The machine features an asymmetrical paddle for even mixing, it can make ice cream in just 20 minutes, and thanks to its wide opening, it’s easy to add the mix-ins of your choice. This is a great entry-level ice cream machine in terms of price and ease of use. It uncomplicates the ice cream making process with just one single button, and now that it’s 20% off at Amazon, you can snag it for just $56.
Good to Know * Style: Canister * Capacity: 1.5 quarts * Material: Plastic * Canister freezing time: 16 to 24 hours * Churn time: 20 minutes * Dimensions: 9.5 x 9 x 11.25 inches * Warranty: 3 year limited
Cuisinart Pure Indulgence 2-Qt. Ice Cream MakerAmazonWhy It Won Our ReviewWith a sturdy stainless steel base and powerful motor, Cuisinart’s Pure Indulgence was another favorite during testing. It’s just as easy to use as our top pick—simply freeze your bowl ahead of time, add in your ice cream base, and flip the switch to “on.” With a 2-quart capacity, it’s slightly larger than our test winner, which is why we named it the “best larger capacity ice cream maker.” Best of all, while it has the largest capacity of our picks, the machine also has the smallest countertop footprint and fits easily into most kitchen cabinets. Hurry to Amazon and snag yours while it’s still 21% off.
Good to Know * Style: Canister * Capacity: 2 quarts * Material: Stainless steel, plastic * Canister freezing time: 16 to 24 hours * Churn time: 30 minutes * Dimensions: 8.25 x 8 x 11.25 inches * Warranty: 3 year limited
Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato MakerAmazonWhy It Won Our ReviewMaybe you’re not the type to plan ahead, or maybe you don’t have room in your fridge to pre-freeze your bowl. Either way, this highly-efficient model from Cuisinart is your best bet. Our superlative-winner for “best ice cream maker for ice cream on demand,” the machine allows you to make ice cream with zero forethought required. The machine takes only 40 minutes to whip up a batch of ice cream, and just like Cuisinart’s canister-style machines, this compressor model is easy to operate. While it looks sleek and churns out professional-grade ice cream, the machine only has three buttons: an on/off switch, a timer and a start button.
Good to Know * Style: Compressor * Capacity: 1.5 quarts * Material: Stainless steel, plastic * Canister freezing time: N/A * Churn time: 40 minutes * Dimensions: 16.73 x 12 x 9.33 inches * Warranty: 3 year limited
FAQsHow long does an ice cream maker need to freeze?
Every model is unique, but our top canister-style picks from Cuisinart require a 16 to 24 hour pre-freeze for best results. However, if you decide to go with a compressor-style ice cream machine like the Cuisinart ICE-100, you can skip the pre-freezing step altogether.
How much does an ice cream machine cost?
The options vary, but our test-winner costs $70 when it’s not on sale, while our priciest pick from Breville costs $500.
Why We're the Experts* Katie Brown is a commerce writer for Serious Eats, Food & Wine, Allrecipes, and EatingWell. * Katie has been writing about food and drinks for over five years and has been known to go through an entire pint of ice cream in a single sitting. Her favorite flavor is cookies and cream.
Serious Eats / Eric Miller
Serious Eats/Jen CauseyPerfect roasted salmon should have crisp skin, and moist and tender flesh. But this can be tricky to achieve. The skin can stick to the cooking surface, the salmon can easily overcook, and the layer of fat underneath the skin can come out greasy. A simple, quick, and less messy way to get perfect roast salmon is to cook it in the air fryer.
While the device is called an air "fryer," you're technically still roasting when using one: Air fryers are essentially small, high-powered convection ovens. They take significantly less time to heat up and cook food, and their ability to circulate hot air quickly and evenly makes them especially handy for crisping up and roasting foods efficiently.
The enclosed cooking environment and compact structure of the air fryer also contains the mess more than if using a skillet or full-size oven. There’s no smelly fish fat splatter to clean off your stove’s backsplash or oven walls after cooking. And thanks to the air fryer’s built-in timer and controlled temperature, you don’t have to monitor the fish as closely as you would if cooking on the stovetop or in the oven.
How to Prevent the Salmon from Sticking in an Air FryerA major issue when cooking salmon with dry heat—whether it’s seared in a skillet or roasted in the oven or air fryer—is how the fish’s delicate flesh and skin are prone to sticking to the cooking surface. As Kenji points out in his pan-seared salmon recipe, if salmon touches a cooking surface that's too cold, it can actually form a chemical bond with the metal, making it almost impossible to lift or flip without tearing the fish or skin. Preheating the air fryer ensures the basket is already at the proper cooking temperature, so when the fish hits the basket, the hot surface will rapidly set the proteins in the fish before there is a chance for them to start bonding with the surface.
Patting the salmon fillets dry right before seasoning and oiling them and placing them in the air fryer basket is another way to guarantee the salmon starts cooking on immediate contact with the basket. Moisture left on the surface of the fish can quickly suck away heat, so it's important to dry your fish carefully.
If you do have a little time to spare, dry-brining the salmon at least 45 minutes in advance and letting it rest in the fridge on a wire rack set in a sheet pan uncovered for several hours can help the fish retain more moisture as it cooks while drying the surface. But if you don't have at least 45 minutes, it's best to season right before cooking, to prevent moisture drawn out by the salt from interfering with crisp skin.
And the final way to prevent the salmon from sticking in the air fryer basket is to create a non-stick cooking environment by rubbing the fish all over with oil and spraying the inside of the basket with cooking spray right before cooking. When spraying the basket, just make sure to do so away from direct heat of the air fryer.
How to Get Tender Flaky Air-Fryer Salmon With Crisp SkinAs mentioned earlier, the constant air flow in the air fryer does a great job at drying the exterior of foods and promoting browning, but with salmon you want to make sure the fish’s skin crisps at the same rate as the inside of the fish is cooking. If the temperature is too high, the salmon skin will start to scorch before the fish is fully cooked inside, and if the temperature is too low, the flesh will overcook before the skin has a chance to crisp. After rounds and rounds of testing, we found three key steps to guarantee salmon that has crisp skin with a perfectly cooked interior.
- Pay attention to fillet thickness: Two pieces of salmon that both weigh the exact same amount can be different thicknesses depending on the specific salmon and where on the fillet they're cut from. This difference in thickness can directly impact the final cooking result—the thinner the fillet, the less time it will take to cook, which means the skin has less time to turn crispy. The reverse scenario is true with thicker fillets.
We tested cooking salmon fillets of five different thicknesses, starting at 3/4 inch thick and increasing in quarter inch increments all the way up to two inches thick. We found that the thinner fillets reached the proper internal cooking temperature before the skin had a chance to fully crisp, and the two-inch-thick fillet’s skin verged on burnt by the time the internal temperature reached our desired 120°F medium-rare. The “sweet spot” were fillets that were 1 1/4 to 1 1/2- inch thick. In the time it took the flesh of these fillets to reach 120°F, the skin dried out and had a pleasant crispness to it. Fillets of this thickness will come from the center cut of the salmon; try to avoid the tail end, which yields much thinner slabs of fish.
While you can adjust the air fryer temperature higher or lower than our advised temp for salmon fillets that are thicker or thinner than our recommended range, we had the most consistent and highest quality result when operating with fillets that fell into this recommended thickness zone.
- Cook at 375°F: Similar to the testing scenario described above for the fillet thickness, we tested cooking temperatures with temperatures ranging from 325°F up to 400°F. Ultimately, we found the ideal cooking temperature to be 375°F. At this temperature, the fillet’s skin crisped at the same rate as the fish cooked to medium-rare.
That said, if you're using thicker or thinner fillets than our recommended dimensions, you should adjust the cooking temperature up or down in an attempt to compensate: Lower to about 350°F if the salmon is more than 1 1/2 inch thick, and hotter to about 400°F if the salmon is less than 1 1/4 inches thick. * Cook the fillets skin side up: For many of us, myself included, the crisp skin on a piece of roasted fish is the highlight, so this air-fryer method had to deliver on that. We tested different approaches to cooking the salmon to find the one that yielded the most crispy skin, including placing it skin side down in the hot air fryer basket (this would be the correct way if pan-searing the fish), and also skin side up.
The skin side up salmon produced much crispier skin. This is because, despite an air fryer's ability to move air all around the cooking chamber, the main heat source comes from above since that's where the heating element is. Plus, even with perforations in the air fryer basket, setting the skin against the basket surface when skin side down blocked air flow to the part of the fillet where we most wanted it for maximum crisping—unlike a skillet where contact with heated metal promotes crisping, contact with the fryer basket does the opposite.
How to Prevent Excessive Smoke While CookingIf you’ve ever cooked fatty food in an air fryer before, you probably have experienced excessive smoking. This happens when the fat drips onto the heated cooking surface and heats above its smoking point. In the air fryer’s small enclosed cooking environment, that smoke builds up more quickly than it would in a larger oven. The best way to avoid this is to start with a clean air fryer. Regularly and thoroughly cleaning your air fryer avoids any unwanted grease build up that may create more smoke.
We aso minimize the risk of smoking by cooking the salmon skin side up. As mentioned earlier, this guarantees the fat layer under the skin renders into the fish’s flesh, and it doesn’t drip a much fat onto the bottom of the air fryer basket. If you’re still concerned about smoking, a couple tablespoons of water can also be added to the chamber under the the air fryer basket. The fat will then drip into the water and avoid smoking. Just be aware that added water will add moisture to the cooking environment, and may result in less crispy skin.
Set air fryer to 375°F and preheat for 5 minutes.
Serious Eats/Jen CauseyPat salmon dry with paper towels, rub all over with oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Serious Eats/Jen CauseyLightly spray the preheated air fryer basket with vegetable oil spray. Place salmon in prepared basket, skin side up. Place basket in air fryer and cook until the skin is crispy and golden at edges, and the center is still translucent when checked with tip of paring knife and the thickest portion of the fillet registers 110°F (43°C) for rare, 120°F (49°C) for medium-rare, or 130°F (54°C) for medium, 7 to 12 minutes.
Serious Eats/Jen CauseyCarefully transfer salmon fillets to a paper towel–lined plate and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve.
Serious Eats/Jen CauseySpecial EquipmentAir fryer
Serious Eats / Grace KellyI love my dual-handled Lodge cast iron skillet—it’s durable, sears a mean piece of meat (and a darn good cauliflower steak, too!), and has built up a slick patina and nonstick-ish surface from years of use. But wanna know what I really love about it? The two wide handles on either side.
It’s like a round casserole dish, but, I’d argue, even easier to move. That’s why whenever a newbie cook wants to talk cast iron, I gently guide them toward this easy-to-lift skillet.
Let’s Face It—Cast Iron Is HeavySee, while cast iron is great for all kinds of stovetop and oven-baked recipes (like cornbread, skillet bakes, seared pork chops, potato hash, yadda, yadda ), it’s also heavy. Our winning skillet from Lodge—which sports a single long handle and one helper handle—is around five-and-a-half pounds. While pumping weights at the gym is something I do on the reg, when I’m whirring around my kitchen making dinner, a wrist and arm workout isn’t exactly what I’m looking for.
Two Handles Make It Easy to Lift and PourSerious Eats / Grace KellyBut this is where the two handles come in handy (sorry, I couldn’t resist!). To put it plainly, it’s just much easier to grasp two handles and move the heavy pan than it is to foist a skillet with one long handle.
My in-laws have our winning cast iron skillet, and any time I lift it by the main handle, the pan inevitably tips forward, threatening to spill whatever’s inside. Call it a family penchant for weak wrists or cast iron being heavy (it’s likely a bit of both).
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThis is not the case with the dual-handled pan; just take your pot holders or folded kitchen towels, wrap them around each wide handle, and lift with both hands—et voila!—you’ve got a solid, balanced grasp. Plus, combined with the pour spout, it makes it exceedingly easy to pour out any residual grease or, if you’re frying, spent oil, without worrying about making a mess.
FAQsHow do you clean cast iron?We have a whole article that busts the myths (no soap? No scrubbing? Pah!) of cleaning a cast iron skillet. TLDR: You can wash it with soap and a sponge, just make sure to thoroughly dry it and rub it with a thin layer of food-safe oil (like Canola) before putting it away.
What size cast iron skillet is best? While our winning cast iron skillet is 10.25 inches, we also like having a larger 12-inch skillet for bigger meals or larger amounts of cooking.
Why We’re the Experts * Grace Kelly is a commerce editor at Serious Eats. * She has been an environmental journalist and magazine reporter and worked as a prep cook and bartender. * She’s had her Lodge Cast Iron Dual Handle Pan for around six years and uses it weekly.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianFor many, green salads are a thrown-together afterthought... and that's fine! No judgment! We've all been there. Perhaps you've expended most of your energy getting a laborious main course together, or maybe you just don't have enough time to begin with. Our advice? When in doubt, stick with the basics—maybe keep a nice, citrusy vinaigrette around for last-minute scenarios—but if you have the bandwidth, try branching out.
There are many incremental improvements you can make to up your salad game, like sourcing several kinds of fresh, crisp greens and fragrant herbs, whipping up a rich, creamy dressing, or baking off a sheet pan of sourdough anchovy croutons. Try mixing and matching to your heart's content or, for a more intentional approach, try one of these green salad recipes.
Roman-Inspired Mixed-Green Salad (Misticanza alla Romana)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikDitch the sad tubs of spring mix and make your own medley with the freshest stuff you can find: whole heads of lettuce, radicchio, herbs, dandelion greens, and more.
The Best Caesar SaladSerious Eats / Diana ChistrugaOur take on this classic salad starts with romaine hearts, separated into whole leaves and a creamy dressing, seasoned with anchovy and Worcestershire. Perfectly seasoned croutons, which are tossed with garlic-infused olive oil before being baked, bring the whole dish together. If the romaine in the produce aisle isn't looking so great, check out Kenji's recipe for kale Caesar.
Warm Kale and Caramelized Mushroom SaladSerious Eats / Qi AiThis recipe starts by sautéing mushrooms over high heat and then finishing them with butter, shallot, and sherry. The heat of the mushrooms wilts and softens the greens slightly while offering a rich, earthy contrast to the bright, peppery kale and zingy dressing.
Tofu and Kale Salad With Avocado, Grapefruit, and Miso-Tahini DressingSerious Eats / Victor ProtasioThe combination of crispy tofu, creamy avocado, and fresh grapefruit gives this salad great texture and flavor contrast. The nutty miso dressing and tangy, herbal za'atar round out the flavors perfectly.
Green Salad With Tomatoes, Scallions, and Toasted KashaSerious Eats/ Vicky WasikThis simple salad gets a boost from crispy toasted buckwheat, which adds an unexpected aromatic element and a crunchy pop.
Fully Loaded Iceberg Wedge SaladSerious Eats / Vicky WasikSure, this awesome combination of iceberg, bacon bits, diced tomato, and blue cheese dressing is a "salad," but it's hard not to think that someone, somewhere made a categorization error. The savory intensity of the toppings also makes the wedge a delicious outlier in the salad universe.
Puntarelle Alla Romana (Puntarelle Salad With Anchovy and Garlic Dressing)Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianIn this classic Roman dish, crisp, juicy shreds of puntarelle are tossed with a potent anchovy- and garlic-heavy dressing.
Kale Salad With Oven-Dried Grapes, Toasted Walnuts, and Blue CheeseSerious Eats / Vicky WasikBlue cheese, dried fruit, and nuts are a classic combination of flavors, but plump, juicy oven-dried grapes make this salad truly extraordinary.
Tabbouleh SaladSerious Eats / Vicky WasikTabbouleh is a delicious combination of chopped parsley, mint, scallions tomatoes, bulgur wheat, olive oil, and lemon juice. Some of you may be thinking this is not a "green salad," but the vibes (and the color) say other wise.
Chinese Spinach and Peanut SaladSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezLike many Chinese salads, this recipe features lightly cooked vegetables. The spinach is blanched ever so briefly, and then wrung out. The result is a flavorful and vibrantly colored spinach salad, studded with rich, crunchy fried peanuts and tossed with a garlicky and tart dressing.
Spring Vegetable and Arugula Salad With Labne and CucumbersSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltKenj's ode to spring produce is lightly dressed with a mustardy vinaigrette, studded with fresh mozzarella, and served atop a spoonful of labne that's been spread on each plate and drizzled with olive oil.
The Un-Composed (i.e., Best) Niçoise SaladSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis "homestyle" Niçoise is a perfect summer green salad entrée. As with the spring vegetable number above, this recipe is rather light on salad greens, but torn basil leaves and crisp-tender haricots verts pick up the slack.
Serious Eats / Kelli SolomonMy love affair with sweet, nutty spreads began in high school when my foreign exchange partner from Perugia, Italy, brought me a bag full of gianduia products, including mini jars of Italian Nutella and a gilded jar of Caffarel gianduia spread. (I was particularly smitten with the Italian version of Nutella and joined the chorus proclaiming how much better it is than the American version—like one of those people who proselytize about the superiority of Mexican Coke.) And along with my passion for chocolate-hazelnut spread came the beginning of my ongoing hunt for the next sweet spread to give me that same satisfaction. I embraced speculoos and ube hayala, and even had a moment with chocolate tahini. Each makes a guest appearance in my cupboard from time to time, but none are lead characters. My latest love: pistachio cream.
What Is Pistachio Cream? And Where Do I Find It?Pistachio cream is a sweet, green goo made from pistachios, sugar, and oils, all processed until spreadable. Don’t confuse pistachio cream with pistachio butter (aka pistachio paste), which—like other nut butters—is made by grinding nuts into a spread and is typically unsweetened. Pistachio cream is also different from pistachio pesto, which is salty and savory and is a nice alternative to basil pesto on pasta.
Pistachio cream can be used as a sweet breakfast spread, in desserts, and more (I’ll get into my favorite uses below). It's easy to use right out of the jar; sometimes, I eat it directly off a spoon if I'm craving something sweet and have nothing to spread it on. Much like your favorite nut butter, you can find this pistachio cream in creamy or crunchy varieties. Every brand is a little different, with varying ratios of pistachios, sugar, and oil. Some brands also have milk powder and additional flavor enhancers.
Serious Eats / Kelli SolomonMost pistachio cream brands you’ll find in US stores are from Italy, and many of the most expensive jars are from Bronte, Sicily. Bronte pistachios, sometimes marketed as "green gold," have a reputation for being top quality. Growers take great pride in their pistachios and even have a Sagra del Pistacchio (Pistachio Festival), which happens every year in Bronte.
Despite the burgeoning popularity of pistachio cream—Google searches have increased for it in the United States and worldwide in the past year and I’m seeing it pop up in more recipes online—you may not be able to find pistachio cream on your local grocery store shelves. If you do, it will likely be near the Nutella or the nut butters. TikTokers have been obsessed with Pisti pistachio cream since its arrival at Costco warehouses in the UK and Canada. You may have better luck in the US at a specialty foods store or higher-end grocery store like Whole Foods. If all else fails, there are plenty of brands available on Amazon and online. I've tried several brands and especially enjoyed the crema di pistacchio from Marullo and Campo d'Oro pistachio butter. I have yet to try Giannetti Artisans’ pistachio spread or Pistacchiosa—both have rave reviews online but have a higher price point. I'll try them eventually, or when my current jar is empty, maybe I'll use Stella's pistachio paste recipe to make my own.
I Got It. I Love It. Now What?If you've decided to purchase this glorious green spread, there are many ways to use it. Pistachio cream is wonderful spread or drizzled on carby things like waffles, pastries, or oatmeal. You can also simply whip it with heavy cream for a creamy pistachio topping. But don't stop there. Here are a few more suggestions for what to do with this delectable spread:
Serious Eats / Kelli SolomonGlaze or Fill DoughnutsAfter you've fried a batch of yeast-raised doughnuts, skip the glaze. Warm up pistachio cream on a small plate or bowl and dip the top of the doughnut in it. Sprinkle with chopped pistachios, if desired.
Bake a CakeTry adding a few ounces of pistachio cream to your store-bought cake mix to give it an extra boost. If you add more than ½ cup (120 ml) per box of cake mix, you may need to reduce the amount of oil or butter. If you're ambitious, try making this pistachio cake from scratch.
Whip Up Pistachio-Mascarpone CreamStart by whipping ½ cup of mascarpone cheese and ½ cup of pistachio cream using an immersion blender, food processor, or hand mixer. Then, separately whip 3/4 cup of whipped cream. Combine these two by folding them together in a small bowl. Substitute this cream for whipped cream or frosting to top desserts, use it to fill homemade cannoli, or top your hot chocolate with it instead of marshmallows.
Flavor Your CoffeeInstead of going to Starbucks to get a cup of pistachio coffee, make it at home. Add 1-2 tablespoons of pistachio cream to your hot milk before frothing and adding to your coffee or espresso. Just be aware that the oil in the spread will affect the mouthfeel of your coffee, which you may or may not like. (Check out our adventures with olive oil coffee to learn how it might impact your brew.)
Make Homemade Ice Cream or GelatoTry using pistachio cream instead of roasted pistachios in this homemade ice cream recipe (just cut back on the sugar a bit). If homemade ice cream is too ambitious, try using pistachio cream as an ice cream topping instead.
Make Pistachio BunsIf you're a pistachio lover, go all-in on these pistachio buns for your next weekend project. They use pistachios three ways—in the filling, the creamy topping, and fresh pistachios as a topping.
Vicky WasikWhile fresh artichokes signal the arrival of spring, many of these recipes use jarred artichokes that are available year round. The vegetable is perhaps most notable in dip form, but there are many other ways to prepare it. Whether you have a minute to whip up a tapenade for guests or want to impress your family with a golden, crispy, fried appetizer, these artichoke recipes offer something for every occasion.
Easy Carciofi alla Romana (Roman Braised Artichoke Hearts)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikHere, Braised Roman-style artichokes are cooked gently in a mixture of white wine, olive oil, garlic, and herbs.
Artichokes à la BarigouleSerious Eats / Vicky WasikPerhaps one of Provence's most iconic springtime dishes, artichokes à la barigoule features tender young artichokes braised in white wine and olive oil, with onions, carrots, and other aromatics.
Roman-Jewish Fried Artichokes (Carciofi alla Giudia)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikConsider this dish a fine example of the Roman-Jewish mastery of deep frying techniques.
Grilled Mozzarella Sandwiches With Mortadella, Pesto, and ArtichokesSerious Eats / Vicky WasikEach of these crisp, thin sandwiches is filled with melted mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced marinated artichoke hearts, pesto, and mortadella. A little anchovy punches up the savory flavor of each bite.
Vegan Spinach and Artichoke DipSerious Eats / Kristin DonnellyThis vegan version of a classic spinach and artichoke dip harnesses the power of cauliflower and cashews to create a rich, thick, and creamy base for the vegetables.
Spinach Artichoke Grilled CheeseSerious Eats / Vicky WasikYour favorite dip stuffed into your favorite sandwich! What an easy way to eat your greens and artichokes, too.
Panzanella With Artichokes, Black Olives, and CapersSerious Eats / Deborah MeleThis bright riff on panzanella includes meaty marinated artichokes, fresh herbs, and briny olives and capers.
Boursin and Gruyère Spinach and Artichoke Gratin DipSerious Eats / Kerry SaretskyThis crowd-pleasing French take on the all-American dip uses lots of spinach and artichoke. Boursin adds creaminess, herbaceousness, and that strong, distinctive garlic flavor.
Marinated Artichoke HeartsSerious EatsThese marinated artichoke hearts are light, punchy, and so good dropped into a springy pasta salad.
Artichoke and Green Olive Pantry TapenadeSerious Eats / Kerry SaretskyThis easy tapenade is a winner for light weeknight dishes or quick get togethers, as it's fast and made with pantry ingredients.
Artichokes with Mint and ChilesSerious Eats / Joshua BouselThis dish starts with boiling artichokes with mint and lemon, then fresh mint adds an extra boost and hot peppers provide a spicy kick.
Serious Eats/Nader MehravariHaleems have long played an important role in Persia’s cooking culture. They are generally composed of a cereal—although some varieties contain legumes such as lentils—that is well mashed along with shredded meat that makes for a filling, well-rounded, and energizing meal. For these reasons it has long been popular as a pre-dawn and post-sundown meal during Ramadan, but it is also enjoyed year round throughout the Persian diaspora.
In western terms, Haleems are best described as a thick porridge. There are different types of haleems whose names most often cite the key identifying ingredient. The most historically important and famous version, made with wheat berries and lamb, simply referred to as haleem, is the one I present here.
Since the tenth century CE, the dish was purchased from specialized haleem cookery shops and consumed as a hearty breakfast in the winter, garnished with sugar and powdered cinnamon–making it both a savory and a sweet dish. In past centuries, haleem required days of preparation and specialty equipment to achieve its signature smooth and elastic consistency. Today haleem is still prominent in Iran and its surrounding regions, and is often served not just for breakfast but also for lunch and dinner. Here is a look at the origins and key ingredients of this Persian wheat dish and how to make it at home.
Serious Eats/Nader MehravariOrigins of HaleemAlthough there are slightly different narratives about the origin of haleem, all point to it originating in the geographical region of today’s Iran and Afghanistan and then moving to other parts of the Middle East, Central Asia, Caucasus, and India. In one narrative, Haleem goes back to the legendary mythical Kiyāniān dynasty of Persian folklore; haleem is described in Shāhnāmeh, Iran’s national epic, and in Avestā, the sacred texts of Zoroastrianism. In another narrative, Haleem’s origin is credited to the sixth century King Khosrow I of the Persian Sassanian dynasty.
After Muslims conquered Persia in the 7th century haleem remained an important dish in the area. In fact, The Legendary Cuisine of Persia by Margaret Shaida references haleem as a favorite dish of the Prophet Mohammad. The oldest known documented recipe for haleem is from the oldest surviving medieval Arabic language cookbook from the 10th century. In this medieval cookbook the author recites a poem crediting the Persian Sassanid empire with creating haleem. This surviving 10th century recipe is remarkably like the contemporary preparation method. By the 13th century, haleem had become popular enough in the region that different versions were being cooked—including rice haleem and pistachio haleem—and versions of the dish were included in at least two 13th century medieval Arabic language cookbooks, where many Persian origin dishes with Arabic names were described.
Serious Eats/Nader MehravariA Dish with Many NamesIn the contemporary Persian language, there are two different spellings of haleem. They are هلیم and حلیم. They both are pronounced the same: haleem. Most historical cookbooks use the حلیم spelling and most of the contemporary cookbooks use the هلیم spelling. Prior to the 20th century, haleem was also commonly referred to by another name–harriseh. In some of the southern provinces of Iran on the shores of the Persian Gulf and the Gulf of Oman, it is still called harriseh, and is indeed called that in many of the region’s Arabic speaking countries where similar dishes with different names have had a long history. In some other countries, for example in Armenia, similar dishes are referred to as harissa–not to be confused with the North African spicy sauce with the same name. In addition to Iran and Arabic speaking countries, haleems are also well known and popular in contemporary Afghanistan and in certain regions of India. Some Muslims in India prefer to call the dish daleem because Haleem is another name for God.
Haleem in Religious and Cultural SettingsIn many countries throughout the world, from Iran to India to Afghanistan and throughout the Arab world, haleem is more popular and more available during the Muslim holy month of Ramadan. It is the perfect high energy and filling dish for the pre-dawn meal–sahari–before one’s daily fast and to break one’s fast during the post-sundown meal,eftār. On Āshurā, the 10th day of Muharram, the first month of the Islamic calendar, Shi'ite Muslims make haleem in large quantities to commemorate the martyrdom of the Prophet Muhammad's grandson, to be shared as alms.
In addition to its importance for Muslims during Ramadan, haleem is also a special Shabbat food for some Persianate Jewish families. Some Christians in Iran and the surrounding regions, particularly in Lebanon and Syria, serve haleem on the Assumption Day (aka the Feast of the Assumption). Zoroastrians consider haleem a dish for special rituals such as on the anniversary of passing of family members.
Haleem’s Historical PreparationAs noted above, preparation of haleem was historically very time-consuming and physically demanding. The involved cooking process, along with high demand for haleem, resulted in the establishment of commercial specialty shops with professionals dedicated to a large haleem cooking production. Professional haleem shops started in Iran and still exist to this day. These shopshe practice proliferated in other countries as well—in particular in India and Afghanistan. Haleem shops in the Indian city of Hyderabad are world famous.
Serious Eats/Nader MehravariTo be served as a breakfast dish, the traditional preparation started the prior evening. The two main ingredients, wheat berries and lamb, were cooked separately. Wheat berries that had been soaking in water for 24 hours prior to the start of cooking would be cooked for several hours until plump and soft, pounded, and then strained to separate any tough parts, resulting in a very thick–but still pourable–substance called “sheereh-e-gandom,” whose literal translation is “syrup of wheat.”
In parallel, the large pieces of bone-in lamb were cooked to the point at which the meat would fall off the bone. The meat was then deboned, shredded by hand, and added to the large caldron of the syrup of wheat where it was all pounded together with large wooden hammerhead paddles–one meter long–continually for the rest of the night. The extended stirring and pounding would result in a thick elastic mixture in which, long shreds of meat would be present but hardly distinguishable from the surrounding sea of creamy wheat. The degree of elasticity of the haleem was a measure of the cook’s mastery of the process. Pre-dawn customers would line up at these specialty shops to purchase the freshly prepared haleem to take home, along with freshly baked famous Persian Barbari flatbread, for the household’s breakfast.
When haleem was being prepared at home back in the 18th and 19th centuries, family members would take turns stirring the pot throughout the night in order for it to be ready for the family’s breakfast. Not to worry, this recipe doesn’t require your entire family to stay up all night stirring the pot to get savory and hearty final porridge the next morning. In my recipe there are three main stages to cooking haleem: Cooking and processing of the wheat, cooking and shredding the meat, and the final cooking and stirring of the wheat and the meat together. Here’s how to get hearty haleem at home with the help of a few basic kitchen appliances and in under three hours.
Why This Recipe Calls for Cracked WheatHaleem is only as good as its foundation—the wheat—so for truly delicious haleem, selecting the right kind of wheat is key. Enter a well-stocked supermarket or a Middle Eastern market and you will be faced with half a dozen or more varieties of wheat products in grain form that differ in cut, size, and how much they’ve been processed. To make the picture more complicated, the same variety might be labeled differently from supplier to supplier and from wheat genus to genus. Here is a quick rundown of what you might find:
Serious Eats/Nader Mehravari Wheat Berries [a.k.a. Unpelted Wheat]: This is the whole kernel of common wheat (Triticum aestivum) with only the husk removed. It is the least processed version of wheat that you may find and takes a long time to cook. It is also used to grow wheat sprouts. * Pelted Wheat [a.k.a. Dzedzadz; Jareesh, Jerrish, Gerish, Gerrish, Ceris, Hulled Wheat]: The outer layer of the grain is removed by abrasion (i.e., it has been pearled) and polished to make pelted wheat. The germ is still present but has been damaged to the point where it cannot be used to grow sprouts. Pelted wheat cooks a bit faster than whole grains of wheat berries. (You may also come across pearled versions of other genuses of wheat, other than the common genus, such as Farro and Spelt.) * Cracked Wheat [a.k.a. Gorgot, Korkot, Gorgod, Yarma, Daliya]: These are pelted wheat kernels that have been crushed. The key advantage of cracked wheat is that it cooks faster than pelted or whole grain wheat. However, it goes rancid faster than other types. Cracked wheat is often confused with bulgur. * Bulgur [a.k.a. Bulghur, Burghul, Arisah]: Bulgur is manufactured by soaking whole wheat kernels, par cooking them (by boiling or steaming), and then drying them. After drying, the hull and some of the bran is removed, after which they are crushed and sorted by size. You may find up to four different sizes of bulgur in some stores. Bulgur cooks very quickly. Finer bulgur can soaked in hot water then eaten without further cooking, while larger grades require further cooking to soften the grain before eating. Bulgur is often confused with cracked wheat. * Wheat Flakes*: This is wheat that has been soaked, steamed, and flattened between rollers to make flakes. Wheat flakes look just like rolled oats. They typically are not used for preparing dishes; instead they are usually used as breakfast cereal just like rolled oats.
Selecting the correct type of wheat grain is important to successfully making this dish at home in a timely manner. The most traditional flavor and texture results from using wheat berries, pelted wheat, or cracked wheat. I’ve tasted and tested all three side by side and found it is practically impossible to tell the difference between haleem made from whole grains such as wheat berries or pelted wheat or haleem made from cracked wheat. One major difference and advantage to cooking with cracked wheat over the other two varieties is that it takes considerably less time to cook—about a full hour less than cooking the other whole grains such as wheat berries or pelted wheat. Cracked wheat is the best option for home cooking since it achieves the ideal porridge texture and flavor in much less time than the other grain options.It has been my go-to variety for making the traditional Persian haleem—therefore, it’s what I call for in this recipe. Cooking haleem with cracked wheat results in a final porridge with the desired full bodied elastic texture and nutty flavor, and in less time than with other forms of wheat.
Another advantage to using cracked wheat is that it is cheap and available in some well-stocked supermarkets, grocery cooperative markets, as well as in Persian, Afghani, Indian, Middle Eastern, and Mediterranean brick-and-mortar shops. It is also readily available on Persian online grocery sources such as Kalamala Persian Grocery, Sadaf, Persian Basket, and Tavazo—and of course you will find it on Amazon.com. My preferred brand of cracked wheat is Sadaf which is also the most frequently available brand in brick-and-mortar markets. In my experience over the years, it is the brand with the most uniformly sized crushed pieces.
Select the Right Cut of Lamb and Shred It into Long StrandsWhile haleem can be made with a variety of meats, lamb is used in this recipe. It’s the most common cut of meat used in haleem. Its assertively gamey and rich flavor enhances the otherwise neutral and bland flavor of the wheat porridge. The best cuts of lamb for haleem are the neck, shank, and leg—preferably all with bone. Choose just one cut for this recipe.
It's important to cook large pieces of meat rather than small chunks. We want larger pieces of meat whose muscle fibers have not been severed so that once the meat is cooked until tender, deboned, and pulled apart the result is long shreds, which is a key characteristic of haleem’s traditional preparation. No need to trim the fat or sinew (fibrous connective tissue attaching muscle to bone) from the lamb as they contribute richness and flavor to haleem–ultimately, most of it will melt away into the stock during the cooking.
Serious Eats/Nader MehravariTips for Cooking Haleem at HomeCook the Wheat Twice Similar to the industrial preparation of haleem described above, the cracked wheat in this home version is still cooked in two stages, but on a smaller scale and in a shorter time frame. When first cooking the wheat, initially there will be lots of bubbles and foam with a high risk of boilovers (This is normal as the starches in the wheat swell, forming viscous gel, making it difficult for the air bubbles to escape easily so they foam and bubble and can go over the edge of the pot).. To avoid boil overs, keep the heat low, stir frequently, and leave the lid a bit open.
Save Time with a Food ProcessorA food processor is the best tool to quickly break down the cooked wheat into a puree. Where a century ago this process would have relied on industrial equipment in a professional setting or hours of manual labor, the grain can now be pulverized within minutes.
Finish with a Hand MixerInstead of relying on family members to stir a pot all night, or on industrial sized wooden tools to beat the mixture, a hand held mixer works great for home consumption. After 10 to 15 minutes of beating, the mixture should be transformed into a supple, elastic porridge. It should be silky and perfectly smooth, with the faintest bit of texture from the lamb that’s now broken down into barely visible specks.
Getting this ideal porridge still takes effort and time, but the meat and stock can be made and stored up to four days in advance and the wheat can be par-cooked, pulsed, and strained before storing for up to two days. Better yet, make the porridge whenever is convenient for you, then cool it down and freeze in individual portions. You can then enjoy it whenever you want.
Serve with an Assortment of GarnishesSerious Eats/Nader MehravariPersian haleems are generally cooked with very little seasoning, allowing the eater to season it according to personal and regional preferences with one or more combinations of sugar, ground cinnamon, sesame seeds, melted butter, crispy fried onions, coconut flakes, honey, salt, or pepper. If you know the taste preferences of your guests or family members, take the opportunity to either garnish the top of a large bowl of haleem for family-style serving or garnish each individual haleem bowl with the preferred spices and flavorings of their diners.
Sprinkle lamb all over with 1/2 teaspoon salt. In a large pot, combine lamb, onion, bay leaf, 6 cups of water (1.4 liters), and bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat. Cover and cook, reducing heat as needed to maintain a gentle simmer, until the meat is fully tender and falls off the bone easily, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat to a cutting board and let cool slightly, about 15 minutes. Strain the meat stock through a fine-mesh strainer set over a large bowl; Set aside.
Serious Eats/ Nader MehravariOnce meat is cool enough to handle, use 2 forks or your hands to debone and shred the meat into thin long strands; set aside.
Serious Eats/Nader MehravariWhile the lamb cooks, in a large Dutch oven or large heavy-bottomed stockpot, combine the cracked wheat, 8 cups of water (1.9 liters), and remaining 1 teaspoon salt and bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer, partially cover the pot, and cook, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking and scorching on the bottom of the pot. Cook until the wheat is softened and mixture is very thick and creamy, about 1 1/2 hours, adjusting with additional lamb stock or water as needed to keep grains fully submerged to reach proper consistency.
Serious Eats/Nader MehravariLadle half of the cooked wheat into a food processor and process until smooth, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats/Nader MehravariPour the processed wheat mixture into a large fine-mesh strainer set over a large mixing bowl. Using a silicone spatula or a flexible dough scraper, push the mixture through the strainer until only the tough pieces of cooked cracked wheat remain. Scrape and clear the underside of the strainer as needed. This process may take up to 10 minutes. Alternatively, you can use a food mill set with a fine disc to process and strain the mixture. Discard the unpassable tough wheat. Repeat processing and straining the remaining cooked wheat (depending on the size of your fine-mesh strainer, you may need to process and strain in more than 2 batches). When done, you should have between 1.5 to 2 quarts (1.4 to 1.9 liters) of a velvety, light cream color, soft paste that has the consistency of mayonnaise. This is referred to as the “syrup of wheat.”
Serious Eats/Nader MehravariRinse and dry the now-empty heavy-bottomed stock pot that you had cooked the wheat in and transfer the “syrup of wheat” back into the clean pot.
Serious Eats/Nader MehravariSet 1/4 cup of the shredded lamb aside, then stir the remaining shredded lamb into the cooked wheat in stockpot. Add a 1/2 cup of the reserved meat stock into the mixture. With a wooden spoon or a large silicone spatula, stir to combine. Cook over medium-low heat and while continually stirring, slowly pour in additional meat stock, 1/2 cup at time, until the mixture is a thick creamy consistency, about 15 minutes. Lower the heat as needed so the mixture is steaming hot but not boiling. Add butter and stir until butter is fully melted, about 2 minutes.
Serious Eats/Nader MehravariWhile continuing to cook the porridge over low heat, use a handheld mixer on its lowest speed to whip the porridge until the haleem is velvety, stretchy, and elastic with the strands of meat broken down into fine pieces, 10 to 15 minutes.
Serious Eats/Nader MehravariTransfer the cooked haleem to a large serving bowl or individual bowls and garnish with the reserved shredded meat. Serve with your preferred optional garnishes.
Serious Eats/Nader MehravariSpecial EquipmentLarge stockpot, large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot, large fine-mesh strainer, food processor, hand-held mixer
NotesIf you can’t find cracked wheat, substitute equal amounts, by weight, of whole wheat berries, pearled wheat, farro, spelt, or pearled barley and increase the cooking time in step 2 by 1 hour.
Variations of HaleemOther Options for Lamb in HaleemThe original Persian haleem was made with wheat and lamb. Over the centuries, professional and home cooks have created a wide range of haleems, which are given names that identify the key ingredients. In addition to lamb, haleems are made with beef, turkey, chicken, duck, and goose meat. The best cuts of beef for haleem are chuck, bone-in short rib, shanks, and oxtail. The best cuts of chicken or turkey for haleem is bone-in breasts.
Preparation of the beef version is practically identical to the lamb version. While obviously not an option for practicing Muslims, versions of haleem are also made with whole pork tenderloin (as it has long muscle fibers) or a large chunk of pork shoulder (the same cut as used for pulled pork dishes).
It is believed that introduction of poultry variations was an attempt by home cooks to shorten the cooking process, as typical poultry meat reaches falling-of-the-bone stage sooner than other meat. In fact, turkey haleem is now one of the most frequently seen varieties. The chicken and turkey versions are prepared similar to the lamb version but with a reduced cooking time.
Other Options for Wheat in HaleemIn addition to wheat berries, haleems are made with other types of cereal, legume, or nuts including barley, rice, and lentils. There is an important and popular sub-class of haleems where eggplant is the key ingredient. Some regional varieties may feature pistachios, milk, or fermented dried grains.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe wheat can be cooked, processed, and strained through step 5, and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days. Once refrigerated it will become a thick gelatinized block. When ready to make the haleem, reheat it gently over medium-low heat in the saucepan that you are going to use to make the haleem while adding water, or extra meat stock from cooking the meat, 1/4 cup of a cup at a time.
The lamb can be cooked, deboned, and shredded and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days. Refrigerate the strained broth in a separate airtight container for up to 4 days as well.
The final haleem can be cooled and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Reheat it gently over medium-low heat in a saucepan, adding any leftover meat broth or water 1/4 cup at a time to restore it to its original creamy and elastic consistency.
Haleem can also be frozen for up to 2 months. When I have lots of leftovers, I store them in the freezer in individual 1 cup freezer-and-microwave-safe containers. When I want to have a super hearty breakfast, I transfer one of the containers to the refrigerator the day before to defrost and zap it the next morning in the microwave oven while adding a couple of tablespoons of water.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyI spent my early 20s feuding with the humble potato. Fearful of big, bad carbohydrates, I avoided the spud at all costs. My life was a joyless place, filled with nothing but green smoothies and kale salads. I yearned for the nightshade constantly—I dreamed of potatoes all day, every day. I wanted them in every way, shape, and form: mashed, baked, fried, boiled, roasted. I eventually came to my senses and decided that life was too short to live without carbohydrates, and today, potatoes are a permanent fixture in my kitchen. You’ll find me gorging on a bowl of delicious crispy potatoes at least once a week—something made much easier and faster thanks to my air fryer.
Like many of our readers, I’m a fan of Kenji’s famous crispy potatoes—it’s a foolproof recipe that needs no improvement. I’d be lying, though, if I said I wasn’t secretly hoping we’d publish an air fryer version at some point (my love of the potato is nearly matched by my love of my air fryer). Because air fryers are so much smaller than a conventional oven, they take significantly less time to heat up and cook food, and their ability to circulate air quickly and evenly makes them especially handy for crisping up foods. Since I got my first air fryer last year, I’ve used the appliance to cook bacon, roast broccoli, reheat pizza, and refresh stale croissants—to name a few of my favorite uses—and now, I rely on my air fryer to make the crispiest potatoes ever.
Why You Should Parboil Your Potatoes Before Air FryingJust as in Kenji’s oven-roasted potatoes recipe, this air fryer recipe starts with parboiling the potatoes. Boiling your potatoes before tossing them into the air fryer may feel like an unnecessary step, but it’s a tried and true method for making extra crispy roasted potatoes, and one that Kenji swears by for good reason. We’re not just boiling in plain water, though—in true Serious Eats fashion, we’re using an alkaline solution of a half teaspoon of baking soda to two quarts of water. The alkalinity helps break down the outer layer of the potatoes, creating a starchy slurry that coats the chunks of potato when tossed in a bowl with some oil. As the potatoes roast or air fry, this slurry helps the exterior of the potatoes develop a crunchy, craggy crust.
The Best Potatoes for Roasting or Air FryingWhile you can cook any type of potato any way you want, the fact is some spuds are better suited for roasting and air frying than others. While waxy varieties like new potatoes or fingerlings are good for salads and home fries, they’re really not ideal for roasting. Their lower starch content means they don’t get as crispy as starchy varieties, nor do they maintain that crispiness particularly well; though they might be crisp fresh out of the oven, they soften and lose their satisfying crunch quickly.
Serious Eats / Jen Causey
On the other hand, starchier potatoes such as russets (sometimes known as Idaho potatoes) and Yukon golds have a floury, low-moisture interior, which means they crisp up more easily than waxy potatoes and develop incredibly fluffy insides when cooked. They’re excellent for mashing, frying, and roasting; I like to use russets when making French fries or British chips, and they’re also my go-to potatoes for roasting, and now air frying.
It’s Worth Taking the Time to Infuse Your Oil With HerbsHow many times have you tossed your potatoes with oil, garlic, and herbs, only to have all your aromatics burn in the oven or air fryer? The truth is, the temperature you need to make ultra-crispy potatoes in the oven or air fryer is also one that’s a little too hot for fresh herbs and garlic. You could add these flavorings to the potatoes after they’ve roasted, but you wouldn’t get their full flavor potential. The solution sounds fussy but is actually quite simple: Cook the garlic and rosemary in olive oil or whatever fat you’re using just until they’re fragrant, strain them out, then toss the parboiled potatoes in the infused oil. (Save the strained garlic and rosemary pieces to fold into the potatoes when you’re ready to serve—no burned bits necessary.)
Serious Eats / Jen Causey
After you’ve tossed the potatoes in the oil all that’s left to do is roast the potatoes in the air fryer. Unlike our method for oven-roasted potatoes—which takes about an hour to cook—these roasted potatoes require a rapid 20 to 25 minutes in the air fryer. Just give them a shake every now and then, and that’s all there is to it. There’s no preheating the oven, no dealing with rimmed baking sheets (you just have to plop your potatoes into the air fryer basket!), and, most importantly, no waiting an hour for your potatoes to cook. It’s your favorite roast potato recipe—but faster.
In a large pot, bring 2 quarts (2L) water to a boil over high heat. Add potatoes, baking soda, and 1 tablespoon salt and stir to combine. Return to a boil, then reduce to a simmer over medium-low. Simmer, adjusting heat as needed, until a knife meets little resistance when inserted into a potato chunk, 8 to 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeanwhile, in a small saucepan, cook garlic, oil or other fat, rosemary or thyme, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper over medium heat, stirring and shaking pan constantly, until garlic just begins to turn golden, about 3 minutes. Immediately strain oil through a fine mesh strainer set over a large bowl. Reserve the strained garlic and herb solids for later.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyWhen potatoes are cooked; drain well. Place back into the pot and let rest off heat for about 30 seconds to allow excess moisture to evaporate. Transfer potatoes to the bowl with the reserved infused oil. Add remaining 1 1/4 teaspoons salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and toss while shaking bowl roughly, until a thick layer of mashed potato–like paste has built up on potato chunks and seasoning is evenly distributed, 15 to 20 seconds.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseySet air fryer to 400°F (205℃) and preheat for 10 minutes. Add potatoes to basket in even layer, and cook until potatoes are golden brown and crisp all over, removing and shaking the basket a few times during cooking, 20 to 25 minutes.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseyTransfer potatoes to a large bowl and add parsley and reserved garlic-herb mixture. Toss to coat and season with additional salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Jen CauseySpecial EquipmentAir fryer
NotesThe potatoes will be cut into quarters, sixths, or eighths depending on their size.
If using Yukon gold potatoes, cook them for 1 to 2 minutes longer so they are softer when tossed, which helps create the starchy slurry so essential to the potatoes’ crispiness.
Serious Eats/Jen CauseyWhen spring is in the air and vibrant green vegetables start making their way into my local market, I get so excited you might find me skipping down the produce aisle, joyfully throwing fiddleheads and ramps into the air, and generally causing a scene. But before I'm escorted out for my overenthusiastic behavior, I always make a point to grab my favorite springtime veggie: asparagus.
Asparagus is a staple green in my weekly dinner rotation throughout the spring and into the summer. With its earthy fresh flavor with a hint of sweetness and its satisfying plump and tender texture, asparagus pairs well with almost any meal. But what I like best is how darn fast it is to prepare. Asparagus is an extremely versatile vegetable that can be cooked many ways. It’s great roasted, grilled, blanched, microwaved, or braised, but my favorite quick and easy way to prepare asparagus for weeknight dinners is in the air fryer.
The air fryer’s combination of high heat and steady airflow wicks away moisture from the asparagus while it cooks and caramelizes the sugars in fresh asparagus, adding a beautiful complexity of flavor. Within ten minutes you’ll have asparagus that is lightly browned and roasty on the outside and tender-crisp inside. Here are a few tips for getting perfect asparagus in your air fryer.
Buying AsparagusSerious Eats/Jen CauseyIn order to cook asparagus really well, you need to start with fresh, high quality asparagus. I’ll echo Kenji’s tips for buying and prepping asparagus and say that whether purchasing green, white, or even purple asparagus, you should always look for the same characteristics: firm, crisp stalks with tight, fully closed budding tips. As the asparagus ages, the petals on the tip will slowly open up, dry out, or fall off—so be on the lookout for these warning signs that your asparagus is past its prime. You also want to steer clear of asparagus with wet or slimy tips or stalks that are limp or bendable. Look for asparagus that appears to be freshly cut and bright, not dry or woody.
When selecting asparagus to cook in an air fryer, I recommend choosing thicker spears—about 1/2 inch thick or larger. Thicker asparagus are more tender due to their higher soluble fiber content and water retention than thinner spears. The thicker spears can cook longer in the air fryer so they get a nice caramelized exterior while maintaining a crisp and juicy interior. Thinner spears will cook more quickly all the way through, which gives less time for the outside to develop a roasty flavor.
Prepping Asparagus for Cooking in the Air FryerThe only prep asparagus really needs before cooking is trimming the woody ends that are too tough and fibrous to chew. While some people swear by snapping the ends of asparagus off at their natural breaking point, Serious Eats has proven it’s best to cut the ends off. Cutting the tough fibrous ends of the asparagus off minimizes the risk of wasting any unintentionally snapped bits of the tender asparagus, and makes for a nicer presentation. To cut at the right place, simply eyeball where the asparagus lightens in color and feel that area to pinpoint where it becomes more fibrous and rough in texture, then trim off the rough part. If your asparagus is especially woody, you can also use a vegetable peeler to remove the outer layer of the asparagus from the bottom half of the asparagus or all the way up to the tip. I usually skip peeling as I like how the thin, slightly fibrous asparagus skin offsets its fleshy and tender interior.
Serious Eats/Jen CauseyTips for Cooking Asparagus in an Air FryerWhen asparagus is cooked properly in an air fryer, it should be tender while still retaining a bit of crisp texture in the core off each spear. On the outside, there should be a bit of char and browning, particularly on the asparagus tips. This browning and Maillard reaction is what delivers those roasted/caramelized flavors we want. You want them roasty on the outside and tender within, but not totally limp—fresh spring asparagus is best when it still has some bite left in it.
Preheat the air fryer and cook at a high temperature: Since asparagus spears cook so quickly, you want the exterior to start cooking immediately. The oil-coated asparagus should sizzle slightly on contact with the air fryer, so take the extra five minutes to preheat the air fryer. Cooking at a high heat of 400°F allows the outside of the asparagus to develop a woodsy, roasted flavor and get slightly charred before the inside of the spears overcook.
Don’t overcrowd the air fryer basket: Overcrowding the air fryer basket can prevent proper air circulation and result in uneven cooking of the asparagus. It can also cause the asparagus to steam rather than roast, which prevents the slight browning we’re going for here. Avoid this by cooking the asparagus in a single layer or in batches if necessary. For a six-quart or larger capacity air fryer, one pound of asparagus will fit in one batch, but for a smaller capacity air fryer, you may need to cook the asparagus in two batches. Before cooking, check to see if the asparagus will lay flat into your air fryer. If needed, the asparagus can be halved crosswise to ensure the asparagus fits into your air fryer.
Serious Eats/Jen CauseyServing SuggestionsFresh, in-season asparagus that’s been perfectly roasted in the air fryer doesn’t need much adornment. It’s wonderful when you keep it simple with just a squeeze of lemon juice or a drizzle of your preferred vinegar to finish, a few shavings of a sharp hard cheese like Parmesan, and a sprinkle of cut fresh herbs such as chives, parsley, or mint. But if you are feeling inspired to do something a little more complicated, Daniel’s Caraway-Yogurt Sauce or his asparagus alla Milanese and variations are great recipes to dress up this air-fryer asparagus. However you choose to dress up this easy recipe, in about 15 minutes you’ll have asparagus that’s worth making a scene about.
Set air fryer to 400°F and preheat for 5 minutes.
Serious Eats/Jen CauseyIn a bowl, toss asparagus with oil, salt, and pepper. Working in batches if necessary, transfer asparagus to basket in a single layer, and cook until asparagus is browned in a few spots and tender-crisp, 5 to 10 minutes (see notes).
Serious Eats/Jen CauseySpecial EquipmentAir fryer
NotesIf asparagus is too long to fit in the air fryer, halve it crosswise.
I recommend using asparagus that is at least ½-inch thick. The cooking time may vary depending on the thickness of the asparagus
We recommend using a 6-quart or larger air fryer. If using a smaller air fryer, you may need to cook the asparagus in batches to ensure even cooking and spacing.
Serious Eats / Tyler RoelandWho doesn’t love a good deal? Hunting down coveted items at a fraction of their original price is an American pastime, not unlike a summer barbecue. And Serious Eats editors love to get in on the fun: We spend hours every week reviewing the latest and greatest kitchen tools, cookware, appliances and more, and now that Amazon’s inaugural Big Spring Sale Event is here, many of our test winners are on major sale.
We narrowed it down to the 10 best deals worth grabbing—including our favorite cast iron skillet, Dutch oven and air fryer—and prices start at $25. The event only runs through March 25, so don’t wait to cash in on deals up to 50% off from All-Clad, Le Creuset and more.
Best Deals at Amazon’s Big Spring Sale The Best Cast Iron Skillet: Lodge Cast Iron Skillet, $20 (originally $34) * The Best Toaster Oven: Breville Smart Oven Pro, $224 (originally $280) * The Best Air Fryer: Instant Vortex Plus Air Fryer, $90 (originally $160) * The Best Immersion Circulator with Onboard Display: Anova Culinary Sous Vide Precision Cooker 2.0, $105 (originally $220) * The Best Panini Press: Cuisinart Elite Griddler, $158 (originally $200) * The Best Immersion Blender: All-Clad Electrics Stainless Steel Immersion Blender, $102 (originally $170) * The Best Cast Iron Dutch Oven: Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Signature Dutch Oven, $297 (originally $420) * The Best Stainless Steel Water Bottle: Owala FreeSip Insulated Stainless Steel Water Bottle, $22 (originally $28) * The Easiest-to-Read Instant-Read Thermometer: OXO Good Grips Thermocouple Thermometer, $65 (originally $105) * A Fantastic Budget-Friendly Steak Knife Set:* Messermeister Avanta 5” Fine Edge 4-Piece Steak Knife Set, $60 (originally $88)
Lodge Cast Iron SkilletCourtesy of Amazon.com.We’ve been recommending this simple, sleek cast iron skillet for years thanks to its versatility and reliability. The pan is virtually indestructible—a few of our editors have owned theirs for years and claim they still look as good as new. This one measures 10.25 inches in diameter, making it great for single servings and sides, though it comes in a wide variety of sizes.
Vicky WasikBreville Smart Oven ProAmazonThis toaster oven from Breville has been our top recommendation for years, thanks to its superior power and versatility. The appliance heats up quickly and delivers crispy, evenly browned toast in a matter of minutes, Thanks to its large capacity—19 by 16 by 11 inches in size—it's large enough to reheat an entire frozen pizza or up to six standard slices of bread at one time. Snag yours now while it's 20% off at Amazon.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziInstant Vortex Plus Air FryerAmazonAir fryers make quick work of crispy, crunchy foods like chicken tenders, fries and roasted brussels sprouts, and they’ve recently become one of the most popular small appliances in America. If you haven’t yet hopped on the trend, you’re in luck: Our favorite air fryer is a whopping 44% off right now. The Instant Vortex beat out the competition thanks to its large, 6-quart capacity and user-friendly controls. It cooks food fast and evenly, and it promises to stand the test of time.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreAnova Culinary Sous Vide Precision Cooker 2.0AmazonVacuum sealers are surprisingly versatile. They can extend the shelf life of produce and meat, or you can use them to experiment with sous vide cooking. We tested 20 different models, but the Anova Precision Cooker won us over thanks to its useful features, like a built-in bag holder. Plus, unlike others we tested, the Anova can seal liquids inside, making it ideal for preserving foods with lots of natural moisture and oils.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonCuisinart Elite GriddlerAmazonWarm, crusty sandwiches can make any day a good day. Luckily, panini presses like Cuisinart’s Elite Griddler are versatile enough to merit a place in any crowded kitchen. This model comes with high-tech features like a built-in timer and separate temperature controls for the top and bottom plates. It can open flat to convert into a mini indoor grill or griddle, plus, the plates are removable and reversible, so you can cook with or without grill marks depending on your preference.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerAll-Clad Electrics Stainless Steel Immersion BlenderAmazonThis powerful, no frills immersion blender was the fastest and most efficient we tested, landing it the number one spot on our list. The small but mighty tool blends ingredients and emulsifies sauces in seconds and purees tough ingredients with ease. Shop now while it's 40% off at Amazon.
Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesLe Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Signature Dutch OvenAmazonIf you don’t own a Dutch oven, you don’t know what you’re missing. These weighty, durable pots can do it all, making them a great workhorse, even in minimalist kitchens. We tested 20 of the most popular models, and Le Creuset’s classic enameled cast iron Dutch oven tied with Staub for the number one spot thanks to the heritage brand’s reliability. This 5.5-quart model may be on the pricey side, but it'll last you a lifetime or longer. Grab it today while it’s 29% off.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyOwala FreeSip Insulated Stainless Steel Water BottleAmazonStainless steel water bottles are more than just a passing trend—they’re an essential way to stay hydrated without contributing to plastic waste. We tested seven popular brands including Hydro Flask and Yeti, but it was the Owala FreeSip that reigned supreme thanks to its versatile spout and aesthetic appeal. The bottle comes with a straw for sipping as well as a larger opening for large gulps, both of which are protected by a leak-proof cap. And best of all, it’s small enough to fit in any cup holder.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyOXO Good Grips Thermocouple ThermometerAmazonWhether you fancy yourself a grill master or take sourdough very seriously, you know that a good instant-read thermometer is a must-have. Of the 18 thermometers we tested, OXO’s Thermocouple Thermometer was the easiest to read. It comes with a 225 degree-rotating probe, which makes numbers legible at practically any angle, and since it has a black background with white numbers, we could read the results in any lighting—even a pitch-black oven. Plus, it was one of the fastest and most accurate models we tried.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinMessermeister Avanta 5” Fine Edge 4-Piece Steak Knife SetAmazonDull dinner knives are no match for proteins, so if you don’t already own a good set of steak knives, now’s the perfect time to take the leap. This four-piece collection from Messermeister performed as well as sets triple its price, and right now, it’s 31% off at Amazon. The knives feature sharp blades that easily slice through skirt steaks and tough vegetables like cauliflower and eggplant, and their elegant wooden handles felt comfortable to hold and work with.
Serious Eats / Grace Kelly
Is your roasted broccoli coming out dry and leathery? Do not blame yourself. Blame the geometry of broccoli. It is hard to uniformly heat a tree-like structure. Many other vegetables, such as sweet potatoes, winter squash, carrots, and potatoes, can be cut so they have flat surfaces that touch a sheet-pan uniformly, allowing them to brown nicely over their entire surface area. Broccoli, however, not so much. Even if you slit them cross-sectionally to make the florets and stalks flat on one side, the other side is a complex mix of air spaces, tender buds and thick stalks.
Botanically speaking, broccoli is an immature flower structure of green flower bud clusters attached to a thick stalk. Getting the heat to spread uniformly so that the stalk softens to the right level, without over-charring the flower clusters so they are crumbly and bitter is not an easy task. There are several things you can do to save your broccoli from this leathery fate, but possibly the most counterintuitive trick I’ve discovered is to ignore all those rules about only applying dry heat when roasting and instead give your broccoli a little moisture at the end of its cook time. Read on to understand why this works.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikHow Steam Makes Roasted Broccoli BetterAs much as I love a good oven-roasted veggie, I hate opening the oven to charred, overly blackened ones. All the time and effort prepping and roasting them ends up getting wasted. At high temperatures, the last five minutes in the oven can make or break the recipe. I would rather pull the florets out a bit early and be safe than risk it all getting burnt, but when you pull it early the stalks can be unpleasantly crisp or tough and provide a resistance that many people dislike.
To get around that problem, here’s an easy solution: After the initial roast time, when the broccoli is nicely browned but not quite tender, pull the pan from the oven and immediately cover the pan tightly with foil to trap the steam, then allow it to sit for about 10 minutes to soften the broccoli. Even better, you can place the covered tray back in the turned-off oven to cook in the residual heat for just five minutes. At the end of five minutes, you’ll have well roasted, nicely browned, and tender broccoli.
I arrived at this approach after a lot of experimentation. My initial idea was to microwave the broccoli for a minute until it was just soft and then finish it off by roasting it in the oven. However, from my repeated experiments, I observed that steaming before roasting slows down the browning process and I alsoI found that the roasting process followed by steaming delivered better on flavor.
I can see two possible reasons for this. First, when zapping/steaming it, we quickly shut down what’s called the “myrosinase enzyme activity” and this stops certain flavor molecules from developing. A second possible reason, based on Harold McGee’s On Food and Cooking, is that breaking down the structure of the broccoli with steam could expose the florets to their own natural acids, thereby slowing down the Maillard reaction. While there may be some cases in which steaming before roasting works well, in my tests with broccoli I found that roasting before steaming was the best bet.
Steam Is a Seriously Powerful ForceIt is easy to mistake steam as a weak energy source, but when it gets trapped efficiently, steam can be a great source of energy due to a concept called “latent heat of vaporization”—and this energy is just the ticket for softening vegetables throughout. Until we reach the boiling point of water, the relationship between heat input and the resultant temperature is pretty linear and straightforward. The more the heat input; the higher the temperature of the water. But once it reaches the boiling point, the water molecules need to change from the liquid phase to the gaseous phase. They need additional heat to break the intermolecular bonds and convert into vapor. Water has a relatively high latent heat of vaporization. It takes 540 calories of energy to vaporize one gram of water at its boiling point (100°C), compared to just 1 calorie of energy to raise 1 gram of water from 99°C to 100°C. Consequently, during condensation, the latent heat of vaporization absorbed during the vaporization process is released. In simple words, this means that the excess energy absorbed when water converts to steam is released when the steam condenses back on the pieces. This latent heat cooks and softens the vegetable throughout.
Other Factors That Affect Roasted BroccoliNow that we’ve incorporated moisture into the broccoli roasting process, let’s take a look at the other factors that make for the best roasted broccoli.
Hit Your Broccoli With High HeatMy tests confirmed what Kenji’s easy roasted broccoli recipe recommends: The best way to roast broccoli is at a high temperature for a short time. With most roasted vegetables, the end goal is to get it flavorful and brown, tapping into the wonders of the Maillard reaction. When cooked properly, oven-roasted broccoli develops a rich concentration of flavors, even with just a flavoring of oil and salt.
I tested roasting broccoli at three different temperatures (350, 425, and 500°F) and time settings (10, 20, and 30 minutes) and found that when you cook broccoli at lower temperatures for a longer time, it gets dehydrated and leathery because the fanned out shape permits way too much moisture to escape as time goes by. (Kenji also found that setting the oven to a high heat allows the broccoli’s sweet flavors to develop rather than the stinky, sulfurous ones.) So, hit your broccoli with high heat, and you will be rewarded!
Avoid the Convection SettingA convection oven circulates the air inside the oven using a fan and an exhaust. I am usually a big fan of the convection setting in the oven (pun intended). Using the convection setting is a great option when roasting and concentrating flavors in water-rich vegetables like zucchini, but in my experiments, it didn’t work well with broccoli. Given the spread-out structure of the florets and the air spaces between the buds, the convection setting dries the broccoli too quickly, making it leathery in texture. In my tests I found that the constant blowing of hot air pulls out too much moisture. (I found the same problem with the air fryer as well, which is not surprising since the air fryer circulates air just like a convection oven.) So, if your oven has a convection setting, I recommend keeping it turned off and sticking with the traditional bake setting.
With the addition of moisture, the use of high heat, and avoidance of the convection setting, you’re all set to make the best broccoli, despite the veggie’s tricky structure. Happy roasting!
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeWe've officially entered the holy month of Ramadan, the ninth month of the Islamic calendar when Muslims fast—from food, and yes, even water—from dawn until dusk for 30 days. Non-Muslims often express shock when I share this with them, but contrary to what many may think, Ramadan is a time of celebration; it’s about community, an increased sense of faith and worship, and, of course, joyful gatherings with loved ones. Whether it's with a small group of relatives or a larger group of both friends and family, Muslims gather at the end of the day for iftar, the breaking of the fast.
It’s tradition for many Muslims to immediately break their fast with water and dates, which provide an initial boost of energy. From there, many cultures serve some type of soup along with a source of protein and rice. A meal my family frequently sits down to at iftar is a savory, garlicky tomato soup with bulgur, a refreshing farmers salad, and sambusa, a fried, hand-held meat pie that my mother fills with cinnamon-spiced ground beef—a personal favorite of mine.
Given that there are more than 1.6 billion Muslims on Earth, the religion is practiced across a number of different cultures. In Malaysia, people gather for bubur lambuk, a comforting chicken and rice porridge. In Morocco, many replenish themselves with harira, a hearty lentil and vegetable soup. Fesenjān, a sweet-and-sour braise of pomegranates, walnuts, and meat is a mainstay of Persian iftar tables. Everyone celebrates in their own way. Below, you’ll find Ramadan recipes spanning several cultures to break your fast with.
South Asian RecipesAloo Samosa (Samosa Stuffed With Spiced Potato and Peas)Andrew JanjigianThis recipe walks you through how to make the classic potato-stuffed South Asian snack at home.
Lamb Kheema Samosa (Samosa Stuffed With Spiced Ground Lamb)Andrew JanjigianThis meaty version of the beloved snack features spiced ground lamb stuffed in a pastry and fried.
Butter ChickenVicky WasikThe sauce for this butter chicken is simmered on the stovetop and takes on a rich tomato flavor, while broiled marinated chicken adds char to the final dish.
Fish Bhuna (Bengali-Style Fried Fish in Onion and Tomato Curry)Vicky WasikA change of pace from your usual fish dinner, this is great served alongside rice and a simple cucumber salad.
Palak PaneerSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezOften mislabeled as "saag paneer," this dish of fried paneer in a spinach sauce is proof that sometimes simple is best.
Vegetable BiryaniSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis celebratory meal features aromatic and spiced rice and tender braised vegetables.
Vegetable QormaSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezAn assortment of tender vegetables and paneer in a rich, creamy sauce—this is vegetable qorma done right.
Chickpea, Coconut, and Cashew CurryAndrew JanjigianThis curry is intense with garam masala and ginger, cooled by coconut milk and ground toasted cashews.
Southeast Asian RecipesMalaysian ABC SoupSerious Eats / Michelle YipThis no ho-hum chicken soup is deeply flavorful and satisfying, with an ease to deliciousness ratio that's hard to beat.
Malaysian Fish Head CurrySerious Eats / Michelle YipSouth Indian and Malaysian cuisines come together in this spicy vermillion curry that's simmered with fish heads, eggplant, and okra.
Middle Eastern RecipesMansaf (Palestinian Spiced Lamb With Rice and Yogurt Sauce)Serious Eats / Mai KakishThe quintessential dish of Bedouins, mansaf features lightly spiced lamb, fluffy rice, and a tangy jameed-based yogurt sauce, all piled on top of torn flatbread.
Maftool (Palestinian Wheat Pearls in a Vegetable, Chickpea, and Chicken Stew)Serious Eats / Mai KakishCaviar-sized pearls made of whole wheat served in a brothy stew with onions, chickpeas, butternut squash, and tender chicken make up this Palestinian dish.
Fesenjān (Persian Pomegranate and Walnut Meat Braise)Serious Eats / Nader MehravariFesenjān—an iconic Persian braise—gets its signature sweet-and-sour flavor from pomegranate molasses and its velvety texture from ground walnuts.
Khoresh-é-Bādemjan (Persian Meat and Eggplant Stew)Serious Eats / Nader MehravariFilled with melt-in-your-mouth meat and luscious eggplant, this aromatic stew is hearty, comforting, and undeniably delicious.
Kotlet (Persian Ground Meat and Potato Patties)Serious Eats / Nader MehravariThese versatile pan-fried patties are made from a mixture of ground meat, eggs, and finely mashed (or riced) boiled potatoes.
Halal Cart-Style Chicken and Rice With White SauceDiana ChistrugaHere, the chicken is marinated with herbs, lemon, and spices; the rice golden; the sauce, as white and creamy as ever.
Maqlubeh (Palestinian "Upside Down" Meat, Vegetables, and Rice)Serious Eats / Mai KakishIn this recipe, layers of meat, fried vegetables, and spiced rice are flipped over to reveal a complete and festive meal.
Msakhan (Palestinian Flatbreads With Onion, Sumac, and Spiced Roast Chicken)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikServed atop taboon, msakhan is a triumphant contrast of flavors and textures.
Kafta bi Bandora (Palestinian Ground Meat Patties in Tomato Sauce)Serious Eats / Mai KakishLamb with herbs, onions, and spices make the juiciest version of this ancient dish.
Qidreh (Palestinian Bone-In Lamb With Spiced Rice)Serious Eats / Mai KakishThe hallmark dish of the Palestinian city of Hebron, qidreh is brimming with tender bone-in lamb and fragrant spiced rice.
Hashweh (Palestinian Spiced Rice and Meat)Serious Eats / Mai KakishSpices bloomed in ghee add complexity to this celebratory Palestinian dish.
North African RecipesMoroccan Egg Drop Harira (Vegetable and Legume Soup)Serious Eats / Jen CauseyThis version of harira features both lentils and chickpeas, and is finished with a drizzle of beaten egg.
Kabab Halla (Egyptian Braised Beef With Onions)Serious Eats / Greg DupreeKabab halla, a signature Egyptian dish, consists of tender beef braised in a velvety sauce of caramelized onions.
Moroccan Kefta and Bell Pepper Briouats (Ground Meat and Bell Pepper Pastries)Serious Eats / Greg DuPreeCaramelized onions and red bell peppers lend sweetness to these briouats, while paprika, cumin, coriander provide an additional layer of flavor.
Chicken M’qualli Tagine With Olives and Preserved LemonSerious Eats / Jen CauseyBold, sweet, fragrant—but also sour and bitter with olives and preserved lemon—m’qualli carries a myriad of flavors that make it a special and comforting meal.
West African RecipesChicken Yassa (Senegalese Braised Chicken With Caramelized Onions)Jillian AtkinsonThis Senegalese dish is a citrus-forward version of your favorite stewed and smothered chicken-and-onion dish.
Ghanaian Chicken and Peanut Stew (Groundnut Soup) RecipeVicky WasikPeanut butter and tomatoes lend a rich and creamy backdrop to this simple, hearty Ghanaian chicken stew.
Nigerian Meat PieSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineThese Nigerian meat pies feature minced beef, onions, carrots, and potatoes in a curry-spiced sauce.
Nigerian Beef StewSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineA mainstay of many Nigerian meals, there are countless ways to make this stew.
Nigerian Jollof RiceSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineJollof rice, a seasoned tomatoey rice dish, is eaten at every party, Sunday lunch, and everything in between.
Moin Moin (Nigerian Steamed Bean Cake)Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineMoin Moin is a tender cake of black-eyed peas that can be steamed in ramekins or packages formed out of sturdy moin moin leaves.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziSpices are akin to food storage containers; they tend towards entropy. It’s easy to toss a bunch of jars and tins and packets into a cabinet, but you’ll rue the day when your stew is boiling and you needed to add that pinch of dried thyme five minutes ago (cue the frantic scrabbling amongst a jumble of spice bottles). A messy spice cabinet also makes it easier to keep spices that are past their prime. Luckily, there's a gadget that'll help you get your spices in order: the mighty spice rack.
Spice racks are designed to optimize space and efficiency, and make it easy to identify and grab a jar without creating a cascade of tumbling bottles. I put 11 spice racks—ranging from $13 to $35—through a series of tests to help promote stress-free, organized cooking (and to make it easy to get rid of those old jars camping out in the back of your pantry). I evaluated countertop offerings as well as shelf and drawer inserts to find options for kitchens of every shape and size.
The Winners, at a GlanceIf you have the space, drawer spice racks offer great visibility and easy bottle access. The Lynk organizer also holds an impressive number of spices, and the expandable design fits snugly into a variety of drawers.
This spice rack takes advantage of vertical space to display bottles, and if you stick to a labeling system, you’ll never have to shift through a jumble of spices again. I loved its clean, minimal design and the option to mount it to a wall or the back of a door.
The mDesign rack’s tiered shelves helped keep things organized and ensured the back row was visible. Each shelf is constructed of solid plastic that prevents bottles from wobbling or falling over.
The TestsSerious Eats / Madeline Muzzi Installation Test: I assembled and installed each spice rack, evaluating the material, instructions, and how easy it was to set up. * Spice Filling Test: Once assembled, I filled each spice rack with bottled spices to verify the capacity. * Use and Durability Test:* To check functionality, I opened and closed drawers or cabinets, placed and removed spices, and tested out any special features, checking to ensure that spices were easy to access and identify. This also tested the racks' durability.
What We LearnedVisibility Was KeySerious Eats / Madeline MuzziImagine lining your spices up like bowling pins. In this arrangement, it would be easy to identify the front jar, but the pins in the front row would block the spices in the back. The best spice racks arrange spices so that all of the labels are visible.
There are several different ways to achieve this. If you have the space, I found that in-drawer storage options offered the best visibility. Spice racks like the Lynk ProfessionalExpandable Organizer and Marie Kondo Narrow In-Drawer Spice Organizer store jars on their side in a single row, making it easy to see each label.
I also liked the mDesign Plastic Shelf Expandable Spice Rack, which used tiered shelving—the same basic principle behind stadium seating. Spices on the back shelf are elevated, and the labels show over the front bottles.
Other models, like the Copco Non-Skid Turntable and YouCopia SpiceStack Adjustable Spice Rack Organizer, were less successful. The Copco uses a lazy Susan design to increase visibility, but this only allows access to jars on the outer edge—spices in the center were hidden from view. The YouCopia kept jars out of sight entirely on three drawer-like plastic shelves, making it difficult to pinpoint that jar of cumin you’re looking for.
Look for a Solid BaseSerious Eats / Madeline MuzziStandard spice jars aren’t wide enough to remain stable on slatted shelves like those found on the Honey-Can-Do Cabinet Door Spice Rack, Home Complete Over the Door Organizer, The Container Store Pull-Down Spice Rack, and Simple Houseware 2-Tier Spice Rack Kitchen Organizer. During testing, bottles jostled around and tipped over when placed inside or removed from them. I found that spice racks with solid bases and shelves, like our winners, offered better stability, keeping spices upright.
Simple Spice Racks Stored BetterSerious Eats / Madeline MuzziWhen trying to maximize space, it’s tempting to get creative, but not all innovations are successful. For example, the Honey-Can-Do is designed to hang over a cabinet door and create additional shelves. When installed on an upper cabinet, this placed spices just out of reach for our 5’6” tester. But when installed in lower cabinets, it felt awkwardly low and bumped into the existing shelves. The Container Store Pull-Down Spice Rack also tried to spice things up (heh); it promised to swing forward and down, lowering spices from cabinet height to eye level, but the resulting motion, combined with wire construction, sent bottles tumbling. The Spicy Shelf Deluxe, another in-cabinet solution, attempted to create an additional shelf around the perimeter, but assembling and fitting the rack into a space was overly complicated, and one of the brittle plastic legs snapped during installation. Our winning models were easy to install and use and favored simple, solid construction.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Spice RackSerious Eats / Madeline Muzzi / Grace KellyFirst, consider your available space: do you have more room in drawers, on counters, or in cabinets? This can help narrow down your choice. Also before purchasing, evaluate your spice collection and your personal commitment to organization. Racks that rely on manually marking spices are best suited for those with a preexisting affinity for label makers (or painter's tape and a Sharpie). I also liked racks that weren’t overly complicated to install or use; simple is better. Finally, prioritize finding a spice rack with a solid base—a firm platform reduces the risk that bottles will tip over.
Our Top Spice RacksWhat we liked: The Lynk spice storage system is constructed from durable, high-quality alloy steel and can store upwards of 60 spices when fully expanded. Storing spices horizontally in a drawer made it easy to quickly read labels and identify bottles. The expandable construction is seamless and should fit nicely in any drawer between 13.25 and 26.5 inches wide.
What we didn't like: Drawer storage offers the easiest access to spices, but it’s not practical in kitchens with limited drawer space. Depending on the depth of your drawers, it may be tough to accommodate wider bottles or large tins (although narrow tins should be fine).
Key Specs Dimensions: 16.5 x 13.25 x 1.5 inches * Style: Drawer * Capacity: Up to 64 bottles when fully expanded * Material:* Alloy steel
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziWhat we liked: This model features a sleek, minimalist design and versatile storage options—it can be stored on the countertop or affixed to a wall or door. The rack comes with a set of labels for commonly used spices as well as blank labels. If you purchase bulk spices, the included bottles are perfect for storage.
What we didn't like: This system requires decanting all of your spices into the included bottles—standard bottles are too large to fit in the slots. This is ideal for bulk spices but may be tedious for smaller amounts. The included bottles come with sprinkle caps that are on the small side—it would be difficult to shake red pepper flakes or dried rosemary out of the small holes.
Key Specs Dimensions: 4.5 x 11.125 x 10.5 inches * Style: Countertop or wall-mounted * Capacity: 20 large bottles (included) * Material:* Acrylic stand, glass bottles
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziWhat we liked: The tiered construction of this spice rack made it easy to access and identify spice bottles—you can clearly see the spices in each row. Expandable construction makes it compatible with multiple cabinets, too. The mDesign rack was solid and can be installed in under a minute.
What we didn't like: Although it feels durable, this clear plastic will show any smudges, scratches, or spice spills that accumulate over time.
Key Specs Dimensions: 4.1 x 9.5 x 16.75 inches * Rack style: Cabinet * Capacity: 30+ depending on expansion * Material:* Plastic
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe Competition* Honey-Can-Do Honey Can Do Cabinet Door Spice Rack: This compact spice rack had wide slats at the base—spices wobbled and tipped over whenever the cabinet door was opened or closed. Depending on the heights of your cabinets, an over-the-door model may not be practical. * Home Complete Over-the-Door Organizer: This rack provides an abundance of storage. In addition to spices, it can hold larger bottles, like vinegar. Unfortunately, the wide slats failed to keep spices in place while opening and closing the door. * YouCopia SpiceStack Adjustable Spice Rack Organizer: This plastic spice rack felt cheap and brittle. The drawer system protects spices from light, but unless you have a rigorous labeling practice, you’ll end up hunting for cinnamon. * Simple Houseware 2-Tier Spice Rack Kitchen Organizer: This is a simple, no-fuss storage rack that holds approximately 25 standard spice bottles. I liked the minimalist design, but it lost points because it only included one shelf liner—the slats on the other shelf left room for wobbling. * Marie Kondo Narrow In-Drawer Spice Organizer: The Mari Kondo in-drawer spice organizer provides easy access and optimal visibility. This model lost points because of its limited capacity (it holds up to 15 standard bottles) and material—any spice spillage could stain the light wood (be careful with your turmeric). * The Container Store Pull-Down Spice Rack: The combination of movement and slat construction in this rack was a recipe for disaster; spices slid and tumbled when this spice rack was set in motion. * Copco Non-Skid Turntable, 2-Tier, 12-Inch, White/Gray: The solid base of this model provides a stable resting place for spices, but it was difficult to access and identify bottles stored on the lower tier. * Spicy Shelf Deluxe: This model lost points because of its brittle plastic construction and complicated assembly. During testing, I snapped one of the legs by accident.
FAQsAre spice racks worth it?A good spice rack is a worthwhile purchase, preventing you from losing spices to the back-of-the-pantry void. Spice racks don’t have to be expensive—our favorites range from $26 to $37—and they can help you get the most out of your kitchen space (not to mention they make a frantic, mid-cook search for oregano easier).
What kind of spice rack is best? The best type of spice rack depends on your storage space—countertop racks, drawer inserts, and cabinet shelves can all help keep things organized. Look for a solution with solid shelves or racks (instead of slatted). This will help keep your bottles upright.
How should you organize a spice rack?Organize your spice rack so that the labels on each bottle are visible. Depending on the type of storage you choose, it may be helpful to label the tops of the bottles as well as the sides. Other organizational systems, such as alphabetizing or arranging according to use, are purely optional.
How long do spices stay fresh?Spices lose their potency over time. Ground spices will remain fresh for 6 to 10 months. Whole spices have a longer shelf—these may remain useable for up to two years.
What’s the best spice rack for small kitchens? This depends on the type of small kitchen you have. Spices can be stored in drawers, in cabinets, on the countertop, or even mounted to the wall. If kitchen space is at a premium, a wall-mounted shelf may be a great way to create more room.
What’s the best container for whole spices? For whole spices, choose a glass jar with a wide opening. Large ingredients like whole nutmeg or star anise could bottleneck at a small opening. Glass is non-porous—this material will keep oxygen out and prolong shelf life.
What’s the best way to store spices? Spice storage should be concerned with both longevity and access. To prolong shelf life, keep spices in tightly sealed containers in a cool, dark space. For easy access, label containers clearly and store them in single rows.
Why We're the Experts* Madeline Muzzi is a freelance writer, editor, and video producer. * She has written many reviews for Serious Eats, including wine decanters, mini mortar and pestles, and countertop ice makers. * For this review, Madeline tested 11 spice racks, first installing them, then filling them with spices and placing and removing spices bottles.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOn the hot and humid island of Borneo, lacto-fermentation is an advantageous food preservation technique found everywhere. While dehydration is certainly used to extend the life of some meats and fish, year-round humidity makes drying an inefficient method of preservation—which is why most meats are smoked, and many vegetables are fermented instead.
Lacto-fermentation's simplicity—along with the rare salt springs dotting the highlands and the robust salt trade between the coast and the islands—made it the most efficient method for preserving food before refrigeration. What started as a necessity soon overtook the local palate as people came to know and love the distinct taste and aroma of lacto-fermented food. Even with the availability of modern refrigeration today, lacto-fermented food remains an essential part of the Dayak (indigenous Bornean) diet.
Among the many lacto-ferments in Dayak cuisine, kasam sabi, or lacto-fermented mustard greens locally called ensabi, is one of the most popular. Kasam sabi’s signature sharp aroma comes from the vegetable itself. Ensabi, part of the Brassica juncea family of mustard greens, tastes slightly bitter with a mustardy tang. There is always an abundance of ensabi, thanks to it thriving in the hot and humid Bornean climate, but its delicate leaves and stem quickly go from bursting with water and crisp when plucked fresh to wilting after just a few hours. This makes it an ideal candidate for preservation. All you need to do is cast handfuls of seeds onto bare earth and in a few weeks, you’ll have bushels of the dark, leafy green to eat!
The Science of Lacto-Fermentation
Broadly speaking, lacto-fermentation happens when lactic acid bacteria consume carbohydrates and produce lactic acid. The bacteria is naturally present on the surface of vegetables and fruits, waiting for the right conditions to truly thrive. Those conditions include a high salinity and lack of oxygen, which is exactly what happens when you salt the vegetables: Salt draws moisture from the cell walls, submerging the vegetable in a brine of their own juices (if there aren't enough juices from the salted vegetables, you can make additional brine by dissolving salt in water and adding it to the mustard greens and their brine). This is the same process by which sauerkraut, kim chi, and yogurt are made, but in kasam sabi's case the result is a lacto-fermented mustard green that's pleasantly tangy and salty.
How to Make Kasam Sabi
Fermenting kasam sabi is quick and easy when your average daily temperature is 82ºF (28ºC), a warm temperature in which lactic acid bacteria kick into high gear. Though you’ll be able to ferment the vegetables at cooler temperatures like 70ºF (21ºC), the process will happen at a much slower pace.
The process is simple. After washing and drying the ensabi—which is kept whole, minus the roots—you mix the greens with 2% of its weight in salt. The salt not only draws out water in the mustard greens to form the brine in which the greens will ferment, but also minimizes risk of spoilage by preventing less salt-tolerant microorganisms that could cause spoilage or foodborne illness from becoming dominant.
Serious Eats / Jordan Provost
There are several ways to make kasam sabi. Some recipes call for cooked white rice to be added to the mixture to provide additional sugars and nutrients for the lactic acid bacteria to metabolize, resulting in a more intense tanginess (if adding rice, you will need to increase the amount of salt in the recipe to maintain a 2% salinity for fermentation; the below recipe, which includes rice, has already factored this into the salt quantity, so you do not need to add extra salt).
If you’d like a more savory, less sour version, you can omit the rice, but having grown up with the rice version, I prefer its sharper salty-sour flavor. Another option is to sun-dry the ensabi, which allows the greens to wilt and results in kasam sabi with a drier, crisper texture (even when wilted, the greens still release enough liquid to form a brine).
Serious Eats / Jordan Provost
Kasam sabi used to be fermented in ceramic jars, but most people today use airtight plastic or glass containers instead. Depending on the ambient temperature of your home, the kasam sabi’s fermentation is usually complete somewhere between four days (in hotter climates) and two weeks (in cooler ones).
As for how to use it, kasam sabi is commonly eaten both as a side dish with rice during mealtimes or combined with meats (including smoked meats) and/or starches like rice or potatoes to make flavorful stews.
In a large bowl, wash the mustard leaves in several changes of cold water to remove any sand or grit. Using a salad spinner, spin dry.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostIn a medium bowl, massage the mustard leaves with salt, using your hands to lightly bruise the leaves without tearing them, until the leaves begin to turn limp and juices slowly build up, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the rice and mix well.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostIn a clean, airtight fermentation vessel, pack in the mustard leaves and their brine while distributing the rice grains evenly throughout. Press down to submerge greens and rice with brine; if there is not enough natural brine to fully cover the solids, make additional brine by dissolving 1 teaspoon (3g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt (or 1/2 teaspoon table salt) in 1 cup (240ml) room temperature water, then pour this brine into the fermentation vessel until there is enough to fully submerge the solids. Press plastic wrap directly on the surface of the mustard greens and their brine to help keep them submerged, weighing it down if necessary, then close container.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostAllow mustard leaves to ferment at room temperature until the kasam sabi is pleasantly sour and salty, 4 days to 2 weeks (fermentation time can vary depending on the climate); make sure mustard greens remain submerged throughout the fermentation process as exposure to oxygen can lead to spoilage. Signs the ferment has gone wrong include an unpleasant, spoiled aroma, excessive visible mold (small amounts can be scraped off the surface), and any kind of slimy texture. Transfer to the refrigerator and consume within 2 to 3 months.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostSpecial EquipmentAirtight food container for fermentation
NotesIn Borneo, the mustard leaves are a variety locally known as ensabi, which has a pungent aftertaste when consumed raw. It’s seldom found outside of Borneo, but you can substitute with any available mustard greens.
Kasam sabi can be used as a condiment to accompany stews or soups, or stir-fried with onions, garlic, and fresh red or green chiles to be eaten as a side with rice.
Make-Ahead and StorageOnce the kasam sabi has fermented, it can be kept in the refrigerator to slow its fermentation for up to 3 months (technically it can last even longer, but its flavor will begin to fade).
Serious Eats/Taylor MurrayWhile most cooks swoon over a gorgeous end-grain wooden cutting board (at least, I certainly do), a good one can cost a pretty penny. But if you're not up to spending a lot of cash, what's a cook to do? Enter plastic cutting boards, an everyday option that won't break the bank. But not all boards are created equal; some scratch easily, while others will dull your knives. Luckily, we've found options that pass muster: the plastic cutting boards from OXO. We at Serious Eats have been using them for years (I've also used them extensively throughout my career as a test cook), and still highly recommend them. Let us tell thee all the ways we love them, shall we?
They're Extremely Durable—and Won’t Damage KnivesI first encountered OXO cutting boards when I was working in a busy professional test kitchen that had dozens of them in various sizes. I witnessed these boards getting put through their paces by a fleet of chefs every day for years; they were used to butcher whole birds, chop huge volumes of vegetables, and slice baked goods, all without wearing down or dulling knives.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikNot all plastic boards can boast this feat—if they’re too soft, they can get deep cuts and scratches—and bits of plastic can even flake off and make it into your food. Ideally, you want a durable board that isn’t prone to massive gouges, but that's also not so indestructible that cutting on it grinds down the blades of your knives. The OXO boards are balanced; they're hard enough to resist deep cuts in the surface (even after years of use) but are still gentle on blades.
They're Easy to CleanSerious Eats / Taylor MurrayWooden cutting boards are beautiful, but they require a bit more maintenance than I want to get into on a multiple-uses-per-day basis. When I'm testing a bunch of recipes or just want to cook dinner and clean up quickly on a Tuesday night, it's nice to be able to throw my board in the dishwasher without worrying that it will get damaged or warp. The OXO performed very well in our testing when put through repeated dishwasher cycles, so that's a big win.
They're Well-DesignedSerious Eats / Grace KellyWhile a cutting board may seem like a simple object with little room for bells and whistles, some design elements can make or break it (maybe not literally though!). One such qualm is that some boards are too smooth and slide back and forth as you chop. This is both annoying and potentially dangerous. But the OXO boards have rubberized strips and feet on both ends that keep them still no matter how aggressively you chop or slice, no jerry-rigged solution necessary (e.g. a damp, folded kitchen towel placed underneath the board). Additionally, the OXO boards have a groove on one side of the board for catching liquids from meats, while the other side is fully flat, maximizing surface area.
...And AffordableCutting boards run the gamut in terms of price; you could just as easily spend less than $10 as well as hundreds of dollars. While you might want to splurge on a good wooden cutting board, having a set of more affordable everyday workhorse cutting boards is a good idea. OXO sells their smaller plastic cutting boards as a set of two for less than $30, and the larger carving board is just over that amount.
FAQsAre plastic cutting boards dishwasher-safe?Not always. While some plastic cutting boards are specifically designed to withstand the high temperatures of a typical dishwasher cycle, others can sustain damage and become warped. We recommend checking the manufacturer’s care instructions to see if your board can handle a trip through the dishwasher.
What are plastic cutting boards made of?Plastic is plastic is plastic, right? Nope! Plastics cover a range of materials, be it soft, hard, flexible, or rigid. Thermoplastics such as polyethylene are also used to make plastic cutting boards, toys, squeeze bottles, and even garbage bags. The rigidity or hardness of thermoplastics changes with the application of heat, hence the name. There is also bioplastic, like polylactic acid or PLA. Bioplastics generate fewer greenhouse gases in their manufacturing process than traditional thermoplastics.
What's the best size plastic cutting board?It's a good idea to have a larger board, which is super versatile and can be used for tasks big and small. The larger OXO plastic cutting board is 10.5 by 14.5 inches, providing enough space for cutting up melons or breaking down a chicken. OXO also sells two smaller boards, which are good for prepping small produce.
Why We’re the Experts* Andrea Rivera Wawrzyn is a freelance food writer and recipe developer; she's currently an associate food editor at Apartment Therapy Media. * She was formerly an associate editor at America's Test Kitchen. * She has developed recipes for multiple New York Times bestselling cookbooks, including an IACP award winner. * When she worked at America's Test Kitchen, she used OXO cutting boards daily. We at Serious Eats have also been recommending them for the past five years.
A five-year anniversary is a big deal. Some people go out to dinner. Others gift each other wood. At Serious Eats, we sit in a room and argue about whether we should troll our readers by putting a hot dog in a sandwich bracket.
Because this, dear readers, is the fifth year of Starch Madness and we need to BLOW IT ALL THE WAY OUT. Even if that means making some of you just a little bit angry.
If this is your first Starch Madness, welcome! We are so thrilled you're here. It's our favorite time of year in which we create an NCAA-style bracket of recipes centered around a singular starch and present two weeks of carb-focused voting fun. After two years of pasta-related competition, one spud-tastic go-around, and last year’s rice shenanigans, Starch Madness’s fifth anniversary edition will crown The Ultimate Sandwich, and whether it's an upset, an outrage, or a foregone conclusion is entirely up to you.
We have 64 contenders. Some are classics, some are underdogs, and one—we refuse to apologize—is a hot dog. This time, the starch is the sandwich.
So let's talk sandwiches. The definition of one has oft been debated but can never truly be settled. We landed on the following: Any food held between two pieces of bread or nestled in a split bun attached at one hinge. Can we defend this definition against any and all scrutiny? Of course not! But that doesn't stop us from standing by it whole-heartedly, not borne of any real conviction but simply because that's the fun of a bracket—to proceed with utterly undeserved certitude about something as arbitrary as which "sandwich" is the "best" in the world. Whatever those words in quotes may mean.
Oh, oh, and—happy anniversary! We've got a good thing going and are already thinking about next year. Here's the promise: You bring the iron, we’ll bring the starch.
How to VoteKeep an eye both here and on our Instagram page for voting announcements. The competition begins on Monday, 3/18, and voting will happen both on our Instagram stories (@seriouseats) and on this page combined. Every day of voting, the newest pairs of match-ups will debut at 10 a.m. EST.
At that time, you’ll get one set of votes per day on this page and one set of votes over on IG. You’ll have 23 hours to contribute your votes. We’ll take the in-between hour to tally them and bring you (1) the next round of voting and (2) updates on newly minted winners.
So print and fill out a bracket, post a picture of it on Instagram and tag us. Take your debates to group chats and our comments sections, plot out your best attempts to skew the results, and make sure to have fun. Oh, and vote. None of it matters if you don’t vote.
How We Chose the RecipesWe imposed rules to narrow down our selections. Per the aforementioned definition, open-faced sandwiches were banned immediately, partly on the totally unimpeachable grounds that we'd then be forced to open the bracket up to pizza. Hot dogs were included because they are almost always served on a split bun attached at one hinge…and also because the best way to get a competition going is to piss people off.
With those two most important decisions behind us, we turned to our existing catalog of recipes, dusted off some older-but-stronger contenders, drafted a list of sandwich recipes we somehow didn’t already have (how had we gone this long without a bacon, egg, and cheese??), and created new contenders from there.
The question repeatedly asked during the process was, But! is! it! a! sandwich!? This was particularly contentious when the question of bagel sandwiches came up. Not because a bagel sandwich isn't a sandwich—it is!—but whether (according to at least one Brooklyn-born, bagel-raised staffer) anyone who stoops so low as to make a sandwich out of a bagel has any right determining anything at all about this bracket. The question of cookie sandwiches like Oreos was similarly resolved in the negative, because some of us can never have nice things.
How the Bracket WorksAgain, we model our tournament after the NCAA’s March Madness. Once we’ve got the 64 qualifiers, we divide them into four regions. Each region contains 16 notable sandwiches, seeded 1 through 16. That means there are four number-one seeds, four number-two seeds, and so on and so forth.
As for the seeding, we slotted a bunch of heavy-hitters against each other and staggered underdogs throughout with the aim of creating suspense; our #1 seeds are a combination of some of our longest-standing top-performing sandwiches and ones we suspect will go far based on overall popularity in the United States.
Let's be clear: A voting bracket is in its very nature a popularity contest. Winners are not necessarily the best, they're just the most popular among those voting. This means that a lot of very deserving but lesser known sandwiches—in particular some international ones—will have a disadvantage against things like, you know, grilled cheese. Which is to say, if you all make something as vanilla as grilled cheese the winner, that's on you. (No hate against grilled cheese! We love a good grilled cheese!)
Every round of voting will see the competition cut in half. The stakes are as high as you want to make them, folks, and the best part is that you’ll be calling the shots.
If you’re not pleased with the results of the last round? Don’t get mad. Get…leaven. (We’re not not cringing, but that’s part of the fun.)
And the Winner Is...The Ultimate Smashburger, baby, by a mere 500 votes over the BLT. A burger! Winning a sandwich competition! Who'd have thought?
(We did. We totally did.) See you next year. We can't wait.
Serious Eats / Madison WoitenSunday is St. Patrick's Day, and we can’t think of a better way to celebrate than by snagging the cookware and tools on our wish lists (in shades of green, of course). And it must be the luck of the Irish, because our review-winning instant-read thermometer is on sale in green for a limited time in celebration of the holiday. The ultra-accurate Thermapen ONE helps you easily achieve juicier steaks and fluffier breads, so if you’ve been waiting to add a meat thermometer to your kitchen tool collection, now’s the time. From March 15 to 17, Thermoworks is taking 25% off the green Thermapen ONE, meaning you can now snag yours for just $82.
Thermapen ONEThermoworksWhy It Won Our ReviewOut of the 18 instant-read thermometers we tested, the Thermapen ONE was our number one pick thanks to its ultra-fast, ultra-accurate design. Its auto-backlit display and large, high-contrast numbers made it easy to read results, even in a dark oven. And thanks to the thermometer’s auto-rotating display, you don’t need to strain your neck to read it, even at awkward angles. While most thermometers only tilt 180° (if at all), this one tilts a full 360°, meaning you can hold it in any direction and still make out the numbers on the screen.
As its name suggests, the Thermapen ONE takes only 1 second to deliver accurate results. It was the fastest thermometer we tested, and delivers readings with accuracy to ±0.5°F. We also found it easy to use—the thermometer turned on as soon as we pulled out the probe, so there’s no need to hunt for a tiny on and off switch. While it doesn’t come without a price, the Thermapen ONE is waterproof enough to be submerged in water for 30 minutes and comes with a 5-year warranty, meaning it’ll last you a lifetime. Snag yours in time for St. Patrick’s Day now that it’s 25% off in green.
Good to KnowTemperature range: -58.0 to 572.0°F Accuracy: ±0.5°F Response time: 1 second Dimensions: 6.1 x 1.7 x 0.74 inches Warranty: 5 years Battery life: 2,000 hours Number of colors: 10
FAQsHow do you use a Thermapen ONE?
The Thermapen ONE automatically turns on when you pull out the probe, so all you have to do is insert it into the thickest part of your meat or bread and wait a second or two for results.
Where can I buy the Thermapen ONE?
The Thermapen ONE is available at thermoworks.com or kingarthurflour.com.
Is Thermapen ONE worth the money?
The Thermapen ONE was one of the priciest thermometers we tested, but it won our tests thanks to its fast, accurate readings. We think it’s worth the investment—especially since the brand offers a 5-year warranty.
Why We're the Experts* Katie Brown is a commerce writer for Serious Eats, Food & Wine, Allrecipes and EatingWell. * Katie is a vegetarian but loves using her meat thermometer for baking bread.
Serious Eats / Irvin Lin
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI did not grow up eating cottage cheese. I did not see it in person for the first time until I was in high school, when a classmate peeled open a small container to eat with her fruit in the cafeteria. I was taken aback by the curds: Never before had I seen such tiny little globs floating in milky whey. Delicious as it might have been, I found cottage cheese off-putting. It conjured up images of Betty Draper types eating the kind of sad “diet plate” of cottage cheese, fruit, and burger patties that restaurants served from the 1950s to the 1980s. It gave me visions of J. Crew-clad couples lounging by a pool, cottage cheese–filled cantaloupe halves in hand. I know you should never judge a book by its cover, but I just couldn’t bring myself to eat cottage cheese until I discovered the pleasures of whipped cottage cheese
I was ~ influenced ~ by the folks on TikTok, who were blending it into a luxuriously smooth and creamy dip to go with their crackers and raw vegetables. Gone were the curds; in their place was something that resembled whipped ricotta or mascarpone, an elegant spread you wouldn’t be surprised to find at a nice restaurant. I saw people smearing whipped cottage cheese on toast and topping it with sliced figs and honey or swirling it with fruit compote or jam.
There were savory spins, too. It was the star of girl dinners everywhere: Vloggers transformed cottage cheese into a creamy ranch dip by blitzing the dairy with garlic powder, onion powder, dill, parsley, and sour cream. Others incorporated fresh garlic, herbs, and lemon zest into their dip, while others kept it simple with a topping of marinated tomatoes or drizzle of mouth-numbing chili crisp. Like other creamy dairy products—think yogurt or ricotta—cottage cheese is a blank slate, making it a versatile match for a wide range of flavors.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCould this whipped cottage cheese situation be…good? I wasn’t quite sold yet, but I was curious enough to try it myself. My fear of cottage cheese—like most of my other fears—turned out to have been unfounded. And in hindsight, slightly irrational. I discovered that even before blending, cottage cheese was surprisingly good all on its own, straight out of the tub (especially the full-fat variety). A few pulses in the food processor was all it took to turn it into a luscious dip I soon wanted to eat with everything: on toast with sliced bananas for breakfast, blended with fruit and frozen into “ice cream” for dessert, with raw vegetables as a snack.
My very favorite way to eat whipped cottage cheese is garnished with a shower of chopped fresh herbs and lemon zest. It's a refreshing dip for crackers and vegetables that I frequently turn to as an easy, protein-packed desk lunch. I like it with a combo of fresh parsley, chives, and dill, but you could use just one or two of those herbs or whatever soft herbs you have on hand. When I made a batch of this simple dip for my coworkers in the midst of our Starch Madness photo shoots, they gobbled it up enthusiastically alongside their sandwiches stuffed with Spam and Taylor ham.
I no longer fear cottage cheese and would happily eat it with the curds. But it’s so easy and delicious whipped that I see no reason to eat it as-is. As the youngsters say these days: This is the way.
In the bowl of a food processor, process cottage cheese until just blended. Using a silicone spatula, scrape down the sides of the bowl and process until creamy and no lumps remain, about 1 minute. Season to taste. (See notes.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer whipped cottage cheese to a serving bowl and garnish with chopped herbs and lemon zest, if using. Serve with cut vegetables.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentFood processor, silicone spatula
NotesIf using an immersion blender: Using a silicone spatula, scrape cottage cheese into a cup or bowl just wide enough to fit the head of an immersion blender. Place head of immersion blender into bottom of the cup and blend until smooth, slowly moving head as needed to evenly blend cottage cheese, 1 to 2 minutes.
Make-Ahead and StorageWhipped cottage cheese can be refrigerated for up to 5 days.
Andrew JanjigianEaster is one of those holidays that can be celebrated in a number of different ways. Whether you're planning a Sunday brunch, a special dinner, or an egg hunt, we're sure to have an Easter recipe or two to make your celebration more festive and delicious. In addition to our recipes for holiday feasts below, be sure to check out our in-depth guides to buying and preparing leg of lamb and sourcing the best ham.
Apps and Small PlatesMustardy Deviled EggsSerious Ears / Erik DrobeyHomemade mayo, dijon, and pickled cherry pepper brine give the filling for these eggs an extra punch, but the pickled mustard seeds spooned on top truly set these deviled eggs apart.
Torrijas Caramelizadas (Spanish-Style Caramelized French Toast)Serious Eats / Sasha MarxTorrijas, Spain's answer to French toast, are traditionally made during the semana santa, the holy week at Easter time. Custardy, crunchy, and creamy, they're perfect for serving at a special Easter brunch.
Asparagus, Mushroom, Leek, and Cheese GaletteSerious Eats / Vicky WasikEasy to throw together, this springtime vegetable tart is ideal for an Easter brunch spread.
Choreg (Armenian Easter Bread)Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianNigella seed and ground mahlab give this eggy, aromatic, and plush Armenian bread its unique, intoxicating aroma and flavor.
Mains and RoastsHarissa (Armenian Wheat and Chicken Porridge)Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianThis hearty, soothing dish is typically served around Easter—a perfect meal for lingering cold weather. The savory porridge is topped with Aleppo pepper-spiced browned butter and traditionally served with sheets of lavash to scoop it up, along with crisp pickled vegetables.
Tender Braised Lamb Shanks With Bitter Herb SaladSerious Eats / Vicky WasikA fragrant spice blend and a long, slow braise produce flavorful lamb shanks that practically melt off the bone.
Slow-Roasted Boneless Leg of LambSerious Eats / Jen CauseyThis aromatic roast lamb is seasoned throughout with garlic, shallot, anchovy, rosemary, lemon zest, and chile flakes. Using Kenji's reverse-sear method, the lamb turns out a perfect, rosy medium-rare from edge to center.
Maple-Glazed Spiral HamSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis tender, moist city ham is finished off with a simple, sweet-spicy glaze of maple syrup, molasses, and mustard. If you're short on oven space, try Kenji's sous vide method, which only requires a brief 15-minute glazing at 500°F before serving.
Crown Roast of Lamb With Couscous Stuffing and Pistachio-Mint SauceSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis impressive centerpiece is perfect for an Easter feast. Slowly cooking the lamb roast before it's stuffed and browned results in lamb that's a perfect, rosy medium-rare.
Cherry Coke-Glazed Country HamSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltFor those of you who are only familiar with spiral-cut hams or the moist, wet-cured ones that are sliced at the deli counter, country ham is a whole new ballgame. If you seek one out online from fine purveyors like Benton's, Colonel Bill Newsom's, and Edwards, you need to pay attention to a few key details. Kenji's recipe walks you through the basics of desalting country ham and balances its briny intensity with a Cherry Coke-honey-brown sugar glaze seasoned with clove, black pepper, and cinnamon.
DessertsMeringue Nests With Orange Curd Cream and Easter EggsSerious Eats / Nila JonesCrisp meringue "nests" filled with swirled orange curd cream and topped with fresh berries and chocolate Easter eggs make a lovely Easter dessert.
Dark Chocolate Easter CookiesSerious Eats / Vicky WasikHave extra Easter candy around? Stella's solution: "Make up the most ridiculously dark, bitter, and generously salted cookie dough imaginable" and mix in a medley of candy. This bitter, salty dough balances the sweetness of typical mass-produced candy.
Homemade Peanut Butter Cup EggsSerious Eats / Elizabeth BarbonePeanut butter-filled chocolate eggs are a classic Easter treat. They're especially tasty when you make them yourself!
Serious Eats / Will DickeyListen, I love simplifying a job as much as the next person. When I’m staring down the barrel of a five-pound bag of potatoes that need to be mashed, I would love to look to my food processor or stand mixer for an assist. However, neither of these appliances will make suitable spuds. For the silkiest, fluffiest mashed potatoes the key is to minimize the mashing, as they contain a lot of starch and will become gummy if overworked. Enter the potato ricer.
Think of a ricer like a large garlic press. Cooked potatoes go in a perforated hopper basket, then a lever gets pressed down to push the potatoes through small holes (generally the size of a grain of rice, hence ‘potato ricer’). As I mentioned above, the less you work potatoes, the less starch is released, resulting in a fluffier mash. There are other options for gentle mashing, like food mills or potato mashers, but if you’re looking for an easy way to mash potatoes that almost guarantees you won’t overwork them, a potato ricer is your best bet.
To find the best ones, I tested nine potato ricers. After 18 pounds of mashed potatoes, I landed on my two top picks.
The Winners, at a GlanceJoseph Joseph figured out a better way to rice potatoes with its unique ricer that uses a twisting motion rather than a lever. In my tests, it worked faster and was easier on the wrists. The simple design makes for easy cleanup with no extra parts or crevices for potato to hide in.
If you prefer the more typical press-style ricer, the Chef’n was a dream to use. The dual-gear hinge presses potatoes smoothly with less effort than other models. The handles are comfortable to use and the hopper basket detaches from the body for easy cleaning.
This heavy-duty ricer easily fit a whole potato, pressing the spuds out swiftly thanks to its all-over perforations.
The TestsSerious Eats / Will Dickey Potato Test: I tested each ricer by, well, ricing potatoes. I used each ricer to make a batch of Kenji’s Ultra Fluffy Mashed Potatoes, noting how easy each ricer was to load with cooked potatoes, the time it took to rice them, and the final consistency of the mashed potatoes. * Cleanup Test:* I then washed each potato ricer by hand to evaluate the cleaning process.
What We LearnedAll Potato Ricers Will Rice PotatoesSerious Eats / Will DickeyNone of the ricers failed to produce silky, fluffy potatoes. I struggled to detect differences between almost all of the mashed potato samples processed with the various ricers. So, while there were almost no true ricing failures (at least among the pool of ricers I tested), some ricers were far more pleasant to use.
Simple and Sturdy Was BestSerious Eats / Will DickeyWhat separates a so-so ricer from a good ricer is a simple design and sturdy construction. The ricers I liked best lacked numerous crevices for mashed potato to make its way into. Sturdy construction was also key, as pressing potatoes through a ricer requires you to use pressure—and a flimsy handle is bound to bend or break over time.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyComfortable, well-sized handles were important as well. Hollow handles with metal edges (like those on the Bellemain and Priority Chef) pressed into my hands and fingers unpleasantly, while solid handles (like the handles on the Norpro and Chef’n) were more comfortable to use.
One Press Plate Was EnoughSerious Eats / Will DickeyA few models we tested came outfitted with multiple plates with holes in various sizes. While this might be useful if you have plans to rice a variety of vegetables, if you’re mainly going to be using your ricer for potatoes, the extra parts seem unnecessary. As long as the holes were relatively small—between 1/16- and 1/8-inch—the resulting potatoes will come out silky smooth.
The hopper baskets on some models (like the RSVP and OXO) had holes only on the bottom (like a garlic press) while others had holes on the sides as well (like the Norpro and Williams Sonoma). While models with more holes had a minuscule speed advantage when ricing, that saved time slipped away when I had to scrape lingering potato tendrils from two to four surfaces instead of one.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Potato RicerSerious Eats / Will DickeyA good potato ricer should have an uncomplicated design with sturdy construction. I liked a ricer without a bunch of nooks and crannies for errant potatoes to smush into. Solid handles without sharp edges that were at least six inches long were the most comfortable and easy to use. A hopper basket with a wide opening to easily load potatoes in and small perforations make for a fine, fluffy mash. If you’re planning on making a variety of mashed vegetables having press plates with different-sized holes might be advantageous, but if you’re just going to be mashing potatoes, I don’t think they’re necessary.
Look for a model that can go in the dishwasher. (Every ricer I tested was dishwasher-safe.) I don’t see any reason to complicate your life by adding a tool to your kitchen that requires hand-washing when there are so many options that don’t.
Our Favorite Potato RicersWhat we liked: This model felt like someone thought about how to make a potato ricer better. It employs a different technique than every other model I tested. Instead of pressing two handles together vertically to force the potato through the hopper, you push two levers together—not unlike a pair of hedge clippers. The ricer is comprised of two separate pieces. The bottom half houses the hopper basket while the top is a cylinder-shape with a spiraled canal around the sides that screws snugly into the basket. Each side has one handle attached. After loading the basket with potatoes, you line up the two halves of the press using the red dots on either side for guidance and then press the two handles together. This twists the cylinder on the top and screws it down into the steel basket, pushing the riced potato out of the bottom.
This unorthodox design had no downsides. It’s easy to load potato into the hopper without the top half of the ricer in the way, there are fewer surfaces to scrape potato from, the handles are comfortable, and the twisting motion requires less effort than traditional ricers. On top of all of that, the detachable halves and crevice-free design made it one of the easiest models to clean.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyWhat we didn’t like: I couldn’t find anything to complain about with this one, though I wish it came in different colors.
Key Specs Materials: Nylon and stainless steel * Number of perforations: 106 * Distance between perforations: 1/8-inch * Weight: 1.1 pounds * Handle length: 6 3/4 inches * Opening size: 3 1/8 inches * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Will DickeyWhat we liked: If you’d prefer a more traditional potato ricer this model from Chef’n is a great option. The “dual gear” hinge makes pressing potatoes through the hopper a noticeably easier and smoother experience.
While many models included both plungers and hopper baskets made of stainless steel, resulting in an unpleasant metal-on-metal scraping when pressing the ricer shut, the plunger on this model is made of the same plastic as the body. This makes for a smooth, scrape-free ricing experience. The long plastic handles are well-made and comfortable to hold. The stainless steel hopper is wide for easy loading and detachable for painless cleaning.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyWhat we didn’t like: This model is heavier. It’s also the most expensive ricer I tested.
Key Specs Materials: Plastic and stainless steel * Number of perforations: 271 * Distance between perforations: 1/16-inch * Weight: 1.5 pounds * Handle length: 6 1/2 inches * Opening size: 3 1/4 inches * Care instructions:* Top-rack dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Will DickeyWhat we liked: If you’re after a model that can accommodate a whole potato in its hopper, this is a good option. It has comfortable handles and perforations on all sides of the hopper, allowing potatoes to move through easily.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyWhat we didn't like: It's quite large, heavy, and messy to use (thanks to the aforementioned perforations). Because of its size, it's tougher to store, too.
Key Specs Materials: Cast aluminum and rubber handle, stainless steel * Number of perforations: 1,260 * Distance between perforations: 1/16-inch * Weight: 2 pounds * Handle length: 6 3/4 inches * Opening size: 4 inches * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe; hand-washing is recommended
Serious Eats / Will DickeyThe Competition* OXO Good Grips Stainless Steel Potato Ricer: The short handles on this model were uncomfortable to use and the narrow opening on the hopper basket made it difficult to load. * Williams Sonoma Potato Ricer: This ricer is made by Chef’n and is almost identical to our winner. The only difference is the sides of the hopper basket are perforated as well as the bottom. I found that extra holes offer little more than another surface to scrape potato from, but if you’d like more holes this model is slightly cheaper than the Chef’n. * RSVP International Spud Potato Ricer: This is a solid ricer, though it did feel a tad flimsier than other models. It’s easy enough to clean, however, you have to make sure each piece is fully dry before reassembling. Otherwise, the pieces tend to get stuck together. * MyLifeUNIT Heavy Duty Commercial Potato Ricer: The handles of this stainless steel ricer were uncomfortable to use and the construction was chock-a-block with nooks and crannies for mashed potatoes to make their way into. * Bellemain Potato Ricer: This model felt unstable during use in addition to having uncomfortable handles and a hopper basket that slipped away from the body when opening the ricer. * Priority Chef Large Potato Ricer: This ricer’s construction was flimsy. The plunger is held loosely to the body, allowing it to wiggle from left to right as you’re using it. I didn’t like the scraping of metal on metal when opening and closing the ricer, and the handles were uncomfortable.
FAQsSerious Eats / Will DickeyHow do you use a potato ricer?Most (but not all) potato ricers are designed like large garlic presses. You place cooked potatoes (or other vegetables) into a perforated hopper, then apply pressure with a lever that pushes the food through small holes.
What is a potato ricer for? Well, mainly potatoes. Though you can press other soft food items through it, like avocados to make simple purées, most other vegetables need something a little more forceful to break down their tough fibers and cell walls.
What’s the point of ricing potatoes? Ricing is a great way to mash potatoes while ensuring that they do not become gummy. The ricer breaks down the potato while only rupturing the cells once as they pass through the hopper. It's an especially useful tool if you’re making something like gnocchi that requires a particularly fluffy mash, or if you just want to guarantee you won’t overwork your potatoes.
How do you clean a potato ricer?Every model I tested was dishwasher-safe, though we do recommend putting it on the top rack where it’s furthest from the heating element. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for their recommendations. If you don’t have a dishwasher or prefer to wash by hand, a bottle brush did a great job of getting potato out of the ricer’s many small holes.
Why We’re the Experts* Andrea Rivera Wawrzyn is a freelance food writer and recipe developer and was formerly an associate editor at America's Test Kitchen. * She has developed recipes for multiple New York Times bestselling cookbooks, including an IACP award winner. * For this review, Andrea tested nine potato ricers by using them to rice potatoes. She also examined how easy they were to operate and clean.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezA recipe for how to make a pastrami on rye could start and end like this: Go to Katz's and buy one. That would work for New Yorkers, anyway. For those not in NYC, it might be, Go to Protzel's [St. Louis], Go to Langer's [Los Angeles]; Go to Zingerman's [Ann Arbor]; and on and on depending on your locale. In every case, the answer is not: Go to your local supermarket and get the plastic-wrapped pastrami in the deli case. No no no, if that's your best option, let me direct you to the bologna.
Now let's imagine that you don't want to buy a fully formed pastrami sandwich from one of these hallowed institutions of Jewish meat, that you're committed to actually assembling your own at home. Maybe you don't want to eat it right away and instead intend to fix one up later. That's understandable, the sandwich doesn't exactly get better as it sits and the bread grows weary from grease. Then the recipe might reasonably go something like this: Buy pastrami from Katz's or [insert your favorite Jewish deli here] and put it on Jewish rye with mustard. Don't forget the pickle. Still not much of a recipe.
See, on one level, there's a lot to a pastrami sandwich, but it mostly has to do with the quality of the pastrami.* A good pastrami sandwich isn't possible without good pastrami, and that's hard to come by. With roots in Romanian Jewish cooking, pastrami is a slab of beef brisket that's rich with smoke and spice and, unless you're unlucky, streaked with the melting juices of ample beef fat. When hot and sliced thinly against the grain, then piled to Tower of Babel heights on soft Jewish rye, the fat should seep into the bread, moistening it to translucence without wetting it to mush in the way only animal blubber can. A union happens in that simple construction, the fat weaving the spices and smoke of the pastrami with the bread's strong notes of caraway. A spicy brown mustard, whether spread on the sandwich or served on the side, cuts through all the richness.
*It also has to do with the quality of the rye, as I learned years ago upon my first visit to Langer's in Los Angeles. One bite of my pastrami sandwich and my eyes opened wide. "Damn, that's good rye," I remember saying as I realized the bread I'd been eating in New York my whole life was nothing close to this stuff.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLots can be said about the pastrami, but the sandwich? Not quite as much, at least not on a technical level, unless we're talking about making the pastrami from scratch. Making your own pastrami is a serious undertaking, which means having good premade stuff shipped from a deli is still going to be the way easier option. Now, if you really are willing and able to brine and cure and soak and smoke and steam a big hunk of brisket, then head right this way to Serious Eats' tested and best-ed recipe for homemade pastrami. No matter how you procure the meat, the rest couldn't be easier.
But oh, how I don't want to end it there, because the pastrami on rye deserves more. I don't eat them often, but as a half-Jewish kid from Brooklyn, I can count pastrami on rye along with the other classic Jewish deli sandwiches as members of a small handful of foods that I consider to be part of my own otherwise fairly weak cultural identity. My mom used to take me to one or another of the city's iconic delis and we'd eat as much much of a couple sandwiches as we could manage, saving the uneaten portions for what was always the most memorable brown-bag lunches of my life. It was thrilling to unwrap a hulking tongue on rye (my personal go-to, though pastrami is a close second) in my public elementary school's cafeteria instead of the PB&Js and tuna salads that were the standards most other days.
I loved tucking into those flavors a day after the restaurant visit almost as much as I did eliciting the grossed-out reactions of my classmates: "You're eating tongue?!" they'd cry while pantomiming a barfing motion as I dramatically bit through the tender layers with a self-satisfied smile. Those kids, despite being raised in the very city that birthed this beauty, didn't know what they were missing.
The emergence of the pastrami sandwich happened roughly a century before my 1980s lunchroom antics, some time around the turn of the turn of the 20th century, when Ashkenazi Jewish immigrants who'd been hawking Old World preserved meats from push carts on the Lower East Side of New York City slowly transformed their humble businesses into deli counters, and then full-fledged sit-down restaurants.
This transformation partly happened under regulatory pressure from City officials, who wanted to clean up the chaotic and dirty streets by limiting where cart vendors could work and how many would be licensed to do it; one consequence of the widespread ban on roving carts was that some shifted to brick-and-mortar operations that became the modern delicatessen. The Jewish delicatessens we know today also came to be through the natural fusion of foods as they collide in new places. "The turning point for Jewish delicatessen, which catapulted it from an obscure immigrant food to an American cuisine," writes David Sax in his book, Save the Deli: In Search of Perfect Pastrami, Crusty Rye, and the Heart of Jewish Delicatessen, "was the marriage of this cookery with the simultaneously emerging American obsession with the sandwich."
Exactly who first sandwiched the pastrami is unknown, though Sax relays an anecdote about a Lithuanian butcher named Sussman Volk whose great granddaughter claims was the first to have put pastrami between two slices of rye at his Lower East Side deli at some point in the years following his arrival in NYC in 1887.
Perhaps he was the first, perhaps not. But he was at the vanguard of an immigrant tradition that's getting close to 150 years old, and it's one we can keep going one pastrami sandwich at a time.
Spread the rye bread with mustard (alternatively, you can keep the mustard out of the sandwich and serve it on the side for dipping). Pile with the pastrami, close the sandwich, halve, and serve, preferably with pickles.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNotesExactly how much pastrami you put on the sandwich is hotly debated and totally up to you. Some delis will pack upwards of a pound of beef onto one sandwich, which I think borders on the grotesque. The half-pound suggested here is generous without being absurd; you could of course put a little less, but don't go too skimpy or it won't be quite right.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteA great cold roast beef sandwich should feature lean, thinly sliced, rosy meat piled so high on a hearty bun that you need two hands to eat it, and very little more. Yes, there are many iterations of the roast beef sandwich with specific identities that are deeply rooted to their place of origin. Los Angeles has the French Dip, Chicago has Italian Beef, Baltimore has pit beef—all of these are incredible examples of regional American warm roast beef sandwiches. But a basic cold roast beef sandwich defies regionality. It’s an all-purpose go-to sandwich to satiate your hunger. Here’s how to make the freshest, tastiest version possible at home.
The BeefA proper roast beef sandwich starts with the beef itself, so you need to take care in choosing the cut, seasoning it well, cooking it just right, and slicing it thinly. Here are the key factors for beefy perfection.
Choosing the Right Cut of Beef: Go for Eye of Round or Top RoundThe best cut of roast beef for a cold deli-style sandwich isn’t necessarily the same cut you would want when serving roast beef hot out of the oven. A hot roast demands plenty of marbling so that the rich fat can melt and baste the meat. Plus, when served hot, any pockets of fat or inner webbing of connective tissue are still melty and tender, so the meat is enjoyable to bite into and chew. But if you take that hot roast, cool it down, and slice it thin, the hardened fat and any remaining connective tissue becomes tough and unappealing. For a beef roast that’s thinly sliced and served cold, a leaner cut of beef is best, preferably one with a mineral, earthy flavor and dense fibers that retain some substance when sliced.
To arrive at the best beefy flavor and texture for cold roast beef sandwiches, I tested a few cuts of beef. I selected roasts that come from the sirloin or the round primal cuts, because these feature heavily used muscles and therefore have little fat on them. The first roast I cooked and tasted was the eye of round, also referred to as just the eye round roast. The eye of round is the cut of choice for most store-bought deli roast beef. It comes from the upper portion of the rear leg, known as the round primal cut. The second cut was the tri-tip—the small, triangular muscle from the bottom tip of the sirloin primal. And the third cut in my testing line-up was the top round, which also comes from the rear leg. I cooked all three to a final cooking temperature of 125℉(50℃), cooled them down completely, then thinly sliced each for sampling.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteI tasted all three cuts side by side and compared their texture first. Both the eye round and the top round were lean, juicy, and had a pleasant silky texture—closest in texture to traditional cold-cut deli meat. In contrast, the tri-tip was unpleasant to eat. The marbled fat in the tri-tip had a gristly, chewy texture when eaten cold.
Next I focused on the flavor of each. Both the eye round and top round had a comparable deep beefy flavor, a similar flavor profile to traditional deli roast beef, but even more intense. The tri-tip was even more assertive in flavor than the eye round and the top round and was richer as well, but not by a large degree. This is most likely due to the tri-tip having more interior fat marbling than both round roasts.
There was a clear difference in flavor and texture between the trip-tip and the two round roasts. Should I go with the round roasts with the preferable texture, or the tri-tip with the more assertive flavor? All three cuts had positive attributes. Ultimately I decided that either the eye round or top round were the best cuts of beef for this recipe. The large discernable difference in texture between those two cuts and the tri-tip outweighed the more nuanced difference in flavor.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteBased on my research and tasting, if these two specific cuts—eye of round and top round—aren’t available at your market or butcher, I’d suggest choosing any roast from the round that is available. Roasts cut from the sirloin, like the tested tri-tip or even a top sirloin roast, will also work well and taste great but will have a slightly chewier, tougher texture.
My other purchase advice is to look for a round roast with a fat cap on it, and to keep that fat intact. Since top round and top round are on the lean end of the beef-cut spectrum, all exterior fat is welcome, as it will render and melt into the meat during roasting, which will enhance the beef's flavor.
Cook It RightBefore jumping right into cooking, take time to properly season and truss the roast. At minimum one hour, but preferably a day before cooking the roast, sprinkle it generously on all sides with kosher salt, then tie the roast with butcher's twine (or your butcher can do this for you when purchasing). Trussing the beef gives the roast a more even cylindrical shape which will promote even cooking of the roast from end to end. Refrigerate the roast uncovered once salted on a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet. The roast should be fully exposed to the air to let any moisture evaporate that has pulled to the surface—theroast should be as dry as possible from the start of cooking to promote exterior browning.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteSince leaner cuts have very little collagen and connective tissue, they’re prone to dry out when cooked for an extended period of time. You want the roast to cook evenly until just medium-rare while also having a browned and flavorful outer crust. Kenji's reverse-sear method is ideal for cooking roasts to this degree. Slow-roasting meat at a very low temperature ensures that it cooks evenly from edge to edge, and it also minimizes surface moisture, thereby triggering the maillard reaction. The less moisture on the exterior of the protein, the faster the temperature will rise on contact with the hot cooking surface. For this recipe, we slow-roast the beef at just 225°F (105°C) until it registers 115°F (46°C) at its thickest point. We’re purposely undercooking the roast at this stage to account for the fact that we are going to sear the meat, which will continue cooking it, as well as the fact that the meat's temperature will continue to climb due to residual heat from the oven. After coming out of the oven, the meat gets a quick final sear in the skillet to build the flavorful brown crust. The result is roast beef that is juicy and a perfect medium-rare throughout with an attractive mahogany crust.
We’re big fans of reverse searing at Serious Eats, but I’ve also tested cooking the roast beef with the more traditional technique of searing first, then finishing it in the oven until it reaches 125℉ (50℃), and the result was also great. I’ll dare to say that you can use either cooking method for this roast beef with great results (Just don’t tell Daniel).
Let It Rest and Slice It NiceI know I’ve just taken the time to methodically describe the process of selecting, searing, and slicing the best roast beef possible for cold sandwiches, but let’s not avoid the elephant in the room, which is the question, “If I can’t slice the meat at home as thin as I can purchase it at a deli counter, why should I even waste my time roasting it myself? Why don’t I just buy good cold-cut roast beef at my local deli?” It’s a valid question, and you can of course just start this recipe with thinly sliced cold-cut roast beef. If you do go that route, I’d still recommend following my advice below for bread and cheese selection and assembly suggestions. But I’ll argue that freshly made roast beef at home for cold sandwiches will always taste so much better than any roast beef you can buy at the deli. While you might not be able to slice the beef as paper thin as a deli slicer can, what you gain in flavor with making roast beef at home is worth the effort and the difference in texture.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteThere are two main tips to slice roast beef as thin as possible at home for sandwiches. The first is to have the roast as cold as possible when slicing. The colder and firmer the roast, the easier it will be to slice. Cooling the roast for an hour is good, but refrigerating the roast for a full 24 hours is better.The second tip is to use a very sharp knife with a long and thin blade. If your blade isn’t sharp enough, I have found that using a long serrated bread knife, when used slowly and without applying too much pressure, is a surprisingly easy way to get relatively thin slices of beef.
With a cold and firm roast and a sharp blade in hand, it’s time to slice it up. Orient the roast on the carving board so that you slice against the grain. Slicing against the grain will give you clean slices instead of shredded meat. Apply firm and steady pressure when slicing and push the knife back and forth in a smooth long sweeping movement. Don’t push and slice straight down—if you do you’ll apply too much pressure and create a jagged cut. Slicing your roast will take a bit of time, but work slowly and just enjoy the repetition.
The BreadI tested making this roast beef sandwich with eight different bread options. My least favorite breads from the lineup were soft breads like brioche, pain de mie, or supermarket white sandwich bread because they were too delicate when paired with a large amount of roast beef. On the other hand, I found firmer breads like thinly sliced rustic boule and deli rye too dry when paired with the lean beef. My favorites were the Kaiser roll and the New England bulkie roll. Both are slightly enriched breads, which means they have a moderate richness and pillowyness to them. But they’re also sturdier than thinly sliced sandwich bread and other soft breads like broiche, so they hold up well when buttered, toasted, and topped with a dense mound of beef.
The CheeseWhile it's not uncommon for a roast beef sandwich to be served without cheese, since the main ingredient here is a very lean cut of beef, the added richness from cheese adds a lot of value to the sandwich. I recommend using cheese with a mild flavor. The brawny beef should shine in this sandwich, and you don’t want a super-tangy cheese to compete with that. American cheese or a mild cheddar cheese are great options here, and just one slice per top and bottom of the bun is all this sandwich needs.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteBringing It All Together: Assembling the Perfect Roast Beef SandwichYou could just pile the meat high on a cold bun and dive right in, but since you’ve just taken the time to lovingly slow roast and thinly slice your own fresh roast beef, I’d recommend putting more thought into assembly. Think of it like properly framing a work of art (maybe a bit over the top, but you get the point).
Take the time to butter and toast the cut sides of the rolls. This creates a sturdier toasted surface that gives way to the softer interior of the bun, followed by a cascade of satiny meat once bitten into. Toasting the bun briefly in a skillet also warms the bun just enough to slightly melt the cheese into the bun. Bonus: the softened cheese “glues” the roll and the roast beef together for a secure sandwich.
There's No Wrong Way to Sandwich: Topping SuggestionsI believe a good roast beef sandwich doesn’t need more than a couple slices of mild cheese to top it. The beef is the star, and I don’t want a bunch of toppings competing for flavor. That’s why the recipe below is presented in its most basic form. But don’t feel limited by its simplicity. Here are a couple of ways to make it your own.
Slather on your favorite sauce: I’ve listed mayonnaise as the basic condiment here, but horseradish cream sauce, Dijon mustard, or even chili crisp would be incredible here. I live in Massachusetts, just a stone’s throw away from the North Shore, where roast beef sandwiches are slathered with mayo and James River BBQ Sauce (IYKYK). The point being, you can take this basic recipe in whatever direction you prefer by adding your favorite sauce.
Add your favorite crunchy topping: The sandwich consists of a squishy bun, soft cheese, and tender beef slices, which translates to soft on soft on soft. A bit of texture from some crisp lettuce or pickles or crunchy potato chips would be welcome.
However you choose to top your sandwich, just make sure to appreciate the beef in every bite.
For the Roast Beef: Sprinkle roast evenly with the salt and pepper and refrigerate on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet uncovered for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteAdjust oven rack to center position and preheat oven to 225°F (105°C). Place baking sheet with rack and beef in oven and roast until internal temperature registers 115°F (46°C) on an instant-read thermometer at the thickest point, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
Just before the roast comes out of the oven, add oil to a 12-inch stainless steel, or cast iron, or carbon steel skillet and heat over high heat until smoking. Add roast to skillet and cook, using tongs and moving roast as needed, until roast is evenly browned on all sides, and internal temperature registers 125°F (50°C), 5 to 7 minutes.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteTransfer the roast to a large plate and let cool completely, about 1 hour (if time allows, refrigerate the roast whole until well chilled, at least 2 hours and up to 1 day).
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteSlice the roast as thin as possible against the grain.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteFor the Sandwiches: In a 12-inch stainless steel or cast iron skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat until just melted. Add 2 bun bottoms and 2 bun tops, cut side down, and cook, swirling bread around the skillet frequently, until toasted evenly on one bottom, about 3 minutes. Transfer buns, toasted side up, to a plate and while still hot, add a slice of cheese to each top and bottom. Repeat with remaining 1 tablespoon butter, remaining bun halves, and remaining cheese.Transfer to a plate.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteSpread a thin layer of mayonnaise, if using, over bun bottoms. Divide the sliced roast beef and mound it evenly on the roll bottoms (about 6 ounces beef per sandwich). Spread barbecue sauce, if using, or your preferred sauce over the beef and add your favorite toppings. Close sandwiches with bun tops and serve.
Serious Eats / Kevin WhiteSpecial Equipment12-inch stainless steel or cast iron or carbon steel skillet
NotesIf your top round roast has a fat cap on it, trim the fat cap to 1/4 inch thick.
The cooler the roast is, the easier it will be to slice the beef as thin as possible. If time allows, I recommend making the roast up to a day ahead and refrigerating the roast until chilled, at least 2 hours, before removing the twine and slicing for sandwiches.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe cooked roast beef can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAsk any Philadelphian where their favorite cheesesteak spot is and they're sure to have an answer at the ready. But most Philadelphians, including me, will be quick to follow up with, “But that’s not the best Philly sandwich—if you want the best, get a roast pork.” It’s easy to see why it’s a local favorite: A perfect roast pork sandwich is bursting at the seams with thin slices of succulent pork shoulder, melt-in your mouth garlicky broccoli rabe, and sharp provolone cheese, all finished with a ladle of savory jus that drips into the pillowy-yet-crusty bread (preferably a Sarcone’s roll, but I’ll get into that later). And don’t forget the optional condiments like long hot peppers or roasted red peppers you can throw on top. In my humble South Philly opinion, this juicy, flavorful mess of a sandwich is better than a cheesesteak.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe roast pork sandwich has roots in the cuisine of the Abruzzo region of Italy, whose people immigrated en masse to Philadelphia back in the early 20th century, settling primarily in South Philly. Domenico Bucci set up the first roast pork shop in Philly back in 1930. The shop is now called John’s Roast Pork, and it’s still one of the most popular sandwich shops in the area. There are many other great versions served in Philly. You can’t go wrong with the ones served up at Campo’s,, or Tony Luke’s, but my hands-down favorite is Tommy DiNic’s roast pork sandwich. I’ve been enjoying roast pork sandwiches at their counter at the Reading Terminal Market since I was a kid. Everytime I go back home to visit family in Philly, I make a point of braving the market’s bustling crowds and stopping at DiNic’s to savor one. Heck, a DiNic’s roast pork was how my now husband and I chose to celebrate our engagement. After proposing to each other in front of the Logan Circle fountain, we walked down the Parkway and split a DiNic’s roast pork. You can keep your “marry me chicken,”—Philly roast pork sandwich is my love language.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNot surprisingly, it takes some time and care to make a sandwich that’s worthy of major life milestones. The pork needs to be tender but firm enough to stay intact when thinly sliced, the jus rich and well seasoned, the broccoli rabe silky with a bold garlicky kick, and the bread soft but sturdy enough to support the jus and the fillings. My take on Philly’s iconic sandwich checks all these boxes, but I’ll be upfront that there are no real shortcuts to achieving this. A couple days of prep are needed, but it’s well worth it. Here’s how to make a great home version of my favorite Philly sandwich.
How to Get the Pork and the Jus Just RightThe pork and the accompanying jus are the main event. Here’s how to get both perfect for this sandwich.
Start with Pork ButtPork shoulder is the primal cut of choice at all legit Philly shops that serve roast pork sandwiches. Loin is too lean and chewy, while pork belly too fatty and soft (not to mention expensive). Pork shoulder is the perfect middle ground and has all the attributes you need for a great sandwich filling: It’s rich, flavorful, and tender, perfect for piling high on a sandwich. At DiNic’s and other shops that are cranking out roast pork sandwiches at high volume, huge pork shoulders upwards of 15 pounds each are seasoned and braised until just tender but still sliceable.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezA big primal shoulder cut makes sense in a restaurant where hundreds of customers are fed a day. But for a home version of this sandwich, I recommend choosing a pork butt, which comes in smaller sizes that make it more practical for feeding a smaller number of people. You can read in detail about the differences between the pork shoulder’s two main primal cuts, pork butt and picnic shoulder, but here I’ll quickly point out that pork butt (aka Boston butt) is a more well marbled fatty cut of meat than picnic shoulder. The relative tenderness is due to where the cut is located on the pig: The pork butt is the upper portion of the shoulder, where the muscle is less heavily used so the meat is more tender, while the lower portion of the shoulder (the picnic shoulder) is a bit tougher in texture because it’s a more active muscle.
It wouldn’t matter if you used the more sinewy and tougher picnic shoulder roast if the pork for these sandwiches was cooked until it was pull-apart tender and then shredded. But here the pork is cooked until just tender yet still firm and sliceable. There's nowhere for this texture difference to hide with this sandwich preparation. That’s why I make a point to use pork butt.
Start with a boneless roast so there’s no need to debone or butterfly the pork—once cooked, it can simply be cooled and sliced. Also try to find or ask your butcher for a roast with an even cylindrical or rectangular shape. This will ensure more even cooking from end to end, and the slices will be more uniform in size.
Season It WellA hallmark of a roast pork sandwich is the the signature herb and garlic seasoning blend that’s rubbed on the pork before roasting. This blend includes fresh rosemary, thyme, plenty of black pepper, garlic, and a touch of red pepper flakes. Iterations might have different ratios of the herbs and garlic used, but the heavy hitters remain the same. Here I stick with the classic combination, which I rub all over the roast with salt.
Like any large cut of meat, generously salting the roast and letting the salt penetrate the meat is key to building great flavor. Not only does this technique, which is known as dry-brining, build more flavor by salting the meat throughout, but over time salt dissolves proteins, which allows the meat to retain more of its moisture during cooking. The end result? A juicier roast. (While the herbs are added at the same time as salt, they do not penetrate the meat much during the dry-brining time—it’s simply more convenient to add them at the same time so you don’t have to rub down the raw meat twice.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI’ve seen a video of DiNic’s owner, Tommy Nicolosi butterflying large pork shoulder primals to properly season and flavor before rolling them back up and tying. With roasts as large as what he's using, he knows that seasoning just the exterior isn’t going to be enough—too many slices cut from that once cooked will taste of little but pork. But, with the smaller three-pound roast in this recipe, I found it unnecessary to butterfly the roast to season it. Rubbing just the exterior of the pork generously with the salt and herb mixture properly seasons the meat.With a smaller three pound roast, there is basically a bit of "surface" in every slice, so the flavor will carry through the meat without needing to butterfly it. But don’t skip trussing the roast—ying it up at one-inch increments helps the roast retain an even shape for more even cooking.
Hit the Doneness Sweet SpotAs mentioned earlier, the ideal pork for these sandwiches should be tender and juicy but still firm enough to slice and retain a bit of texture. At the same time, we need to cook the pork enough to transform its natural collagen into meltingly tender gelatin while also rendering enough of its fat for proper juiciness, which means a higher internal temperature than, say, a perfectly "medium" roast pork loin. To achieve that ideal texture, the is higher than what might be called "well done" but lower than what's required for something like barbecue—right around 180℉ (80℃) is optimal.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezDon't worry about the pork drying out at this temperature; in a cut like the pork shoulder, the fat and collagen can more than handle this higher heat without being harmed. At this temperature, the pork’s fat is melting, but still sliceable when cooled properly.
Braise, Don’t RoastYes, this is called a roast pork sandwich, so the fact that the pork is braised might cause pause, but most sandwich shops in Philly actually braise their pork shoulders in deep hotel pans filled a third of the way up with a braising liquid—so we aren’t straying too far from the original cooking method. With roasting you run the risk of the pork drying out and you also lose the opportunity to build a flavorful jus in the roasting pan while the pork roasts. That’s why braising the meat until it’s just tender is the best way to cook pork that remains moist while building a flavorful jus at the same time.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAt home, the best way at home to braise the pork is in a Dutch oven. Keeping the lid on while braising traps the steam and creates an intensely humid cooking environment, which helps keep the meat moist. Cooking the pork in a modest amount of stock gives the tough pork butt’s connective tissue the chance to break down into gelatin, a protein that will seep into and thicken the braising liquid to give it a rich mouth-coating texture—ideal for pouring over the sandwiches.
Use Good Stock to Build the JusThe braising liquid not only cooks the pork, but it becomes the flavorful jus for the sandwich. The juices from the pork mingle with the braising liquid during cooking to create an ultra savory jus.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe most important way to build flavor into the jus is to start with a good quality stock. Pork stock is the best option. You can make your own pork bone stock, but this takes hours and adds a lot of work to an already labor-intensive recipe. I recommend checking at your local butcher to see if they carry pork stock. Many upscale food markets also offer prepared pork stock or a concentrated pork base. If unavailable, homemade chicken stock or store-bought low sodium chicken broth work well in this recipe. (If using store-bought broth, I always recommend low-sodium. You can always add salt to taste, but you can’t take it away.) Along with great stock, this jus gets depth of flavor from onions, which are briefly sautéed before the roast is added to the pot.
Rest the Pork Before Slicing It ThinAt DiNic’s, the pork is thinly sliced into melt-in-your-mouth piles on a deli slicer. At home, without a deli slicer, it’s more challenging to get the pork paper thin, but this shouldn’t deter you. You can still get uniformly thin slices of pork at home with just a few tips.
The first is cooking the pork just right. As mentioned above, cooking the pork to 180℉ produces the juiciest pork possible while keeping it firm enough to slice cleanly. If you overcook the pork, it will start to shred, which makes it very challenging to slice.
Another thing that helps is slicing the pork while it’s very cold. The colder it is, the firmer it will be, which makes slicing easier. I initially tried to briefly freeze the roast to get it firm, but this caused the exterior to be much more solid than the interior, and the difference in textures made it hard to apply even pressure to the knife and get uniform slices.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf you have the forethought and the time, the best course of action is to cook the pork a day ahead and refrigerate it a full day before slicing it so that it will be as firm as possible before you attempt to carve off thin slices (note that if you are roasting the pork ahead of time, you’ll also need to refrigerate the jus separately as well).
My last tip for getting the thinnest pork slices possible at home is to use a very sharp slicing or carving knife with a long thin blade. (Do not be tempted to try to slice the pork with a mandoline: Meat requires the slicing motion of a sharp blade and it will not slice properly when pushed against a mandoline's blade the way crisp vegetables do, and frankly is dangerous to even try.) Make sure to apply even pressure and use long strokes. Don’t slice down; instead slice back and forth and the uniform slices will fall off the blade one right after the other. And of course, take your time, enjoying the rhythm of each slice.
To get paper-thin slices at home you’ll need to meet all the above requirements and have strong knife skills. But even if your slices don’t match those coming off a deli slicer at a sandwich shop, they will still be impressively thin and tender enough to easily chew through.
The Broccoli RabeBroccoli rabe is the unsung hero of a great Philly roast pork sandwich. Sure the pork and its accompanying savory jus might hog the limelight, but the bitter greens are what gives this sandwich its character. The tamed brassica bitterness cuts through the fat and richness and, frankly, puts a needed vegetable in your mouth. It’s silky and melts away with every bite while giving an earthy bitter flavor to counter the rich pork.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn culinary school and at every restaurant I’ve ever worked in, I was taught to always serve green vegetables tender/crisp and to treat them so they’d retain their bright green color. I’d blanch and shock leafy green vegetables so they’d have a bit of snap and remain vibrant. This is the exact opposite of how broccoli rabe should be in a roast pork sandwich. Here, it’s ok if the rabe is a little drab—even a little mushy (NB: Daniel agrees, as you'll see in his sautéed broccoli rabe recipe). A little army green never hurt anyone and the flavor and texture achieved will pay off in dividends in the final sandwich. So go ahead and cook the broccoli rabe with garlic and red pepper flakes until tender and lightly browned, then keep cooking it even further until indisputably overcooked; adding jus from the pork to the rabe while it's cooking helps with this, lightly braising the greens as the jus reduces for maximum tenderness.
Long hots—long, moderately spicy pickled Italian peppers—are traditionally an optional topping for a roast pork sandwich, but I’ve chosen to chop them and incorporate them fully into the rabe. This gives the sandwich a more cohesive flavor with a bit of pepper in each bite.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOn top of that, cutting both the peppers and the rabe into bite-size pieces makes eating the assembled sandwich easier. If you can’t find long hots, which are often labeled as such on the jar, any spicy pickled pepper will work fine here. (Of course, if you’re not into pickled peppers, feel free to leave them out.) The final mixture should be soft, a little saucy, intensely garlicky, slightly sharp, and a bit spicy.
Good Bread Makes the SandwichA Sarcone’s sesame seeded long roll is the bread of choice at DiNic’s and many Philly-based sandwich shops that make roast pork sandwiches. It's the perfect vessel for the drippy pork and broccoli rabe filling—the interior crumb is soft and tender so you can easily bite through it, while the exterior crust is firm and sturdy enough to hold a large amount of wet fillings without falling apart. If you live outside of Philadelphia like I do, a Sarcone’s seeded long roll isn’t an option, but if you have an Italian bakery close by, check out their selection and look for eight-inch rolls that fit this criteria. A hoagie or sub roll are an OK substitute, but try to avoid squishy supermarket versions. You need a roll that will keep its structure rather than turning to mush once filled and doused in jus.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe CheeseSharp provolone cheese is the only cheese allowed for a roast pork sandwich. I’m usually all for substitutions and a “go with what you like best” attitude with sandwich recipes, but not here. Thin slices of good sharp provolone, often labeled as “provolone picante” at Italian markets, are best. The cheese is blanketed over the cut side of the rolls and briefly melted into the bread. The melted cheese will serve as an additional barrier for the filling to prevent the bread from immediately turning sopping wet from juicy pork, saucy rabe, and added jus.
Bringing It All Together: Assembling the SandwichesWhile it takes days to prepare all of the sandwich’s components, it takes just a few minutes to assemble the sandwich itself. The key is to have all of your components at the ready. The roast pork, the jus, and even the rabe can be made ahead and refrigerated and gently rewarmed on the stovetop. The sliced pork is held warm in the jus while the rabe mixture is cooked. Once the rabe is cooked, it will stay warm off heat while you melt the cheese on the rolls. After the cheese is melted on the rolls, you’ll pile them with pork, then rabe, then a ladle of jus.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOnce the sandwich is assembled and the jus is ladled on, there’s no time to waste before biting into it. Savor its drippy porky and, if you didn't know it already, get acquainted with the firsthand knowledge that this is Philly’s finest sandwich.
For the Pork: In a bowl, combine garlic, salt, rosemary, thyme, black pepper, and red pepper flakes. If needed, use a sharp knife to trim fat cap on pork to 1/4 inch, then cut a 1-inch crosshatch pattern in fat cap.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPlace pork on a large double layer of plastic wrap. Sprinkle pork all over with salt mixture. Tie pork with kitchen twine at 1-inch intervals, then wrap pork tightly in plastic, place on a platter, and refrigerate for at least 12 hours and up to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 325°F (160°C). In a large Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until soft and translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUnwrap pork and transfer to Dutch oven, fat side up. Add stock, then cover, transfer to oven, and cook until meat registers 180°F (80°C) in center, 2 to 2 1/2 hours. Remove from the oven and transfer the roast to a carving board, then let cool to room temperature, about 1 hour (if time allows, refrigerate the roast whole until well chilled, at least 2 hours and up to 1 day). Set pork jus aside or refrigerate until ready to use.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Sandwiches: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400℉ (200°C). Remove the kitchen twine from the roast and slice the roast against the grain as thin as possible; set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezReheat the jus over medium-high heat until just simmering, and season with salt to taste. Add the sliced pork with any accumulated juices and mix to coat. Gently simmer until pork is heated through, about 1 minute. Keep warm until ready to assemble sandwiches.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a 12-inch skillet, heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add broccoli rabe, salt, and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and lightly browned, 6 to 9 minutes. Stir in garlic and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in peppers and 1 cup of the pork jus from the Dutch oven, bring to a simmer, and cook until liquid is reduced and rabe is very tender, about 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezArrange rolls, split side up, on rimmed baking sheet. Divide provolone evenly among rolls, then bake until cheese is melted and rolls are beginning to toast around the edges, about 3 minutes. Using tongs, divide pork and broccoli rabe evenly among rolls, then ladle a few spoonfuls of remaining jus over each sandwich. Serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostI beg your pardon, but you'll have to allow me a second to process what I'm realizing is an existential moment for me. Apparently today, right now—this second—is the point in my career when I sit down to write about how to make a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. Is this how Orson Welles felt when he had to deliver, straight-faced and in his trademark erudite tone, an endorsement for junky supermarket wine? Who am I kidding—he was compensated way better and was at least able to get drunk on that gig. Here I am, sober as a stone and (I'm willing to admit) no Orson Welles. But if Orson could buck up and do it, so can I, so let's go!
The PB&J is as American as it gets, and its story is spread across the internet from web page to web page as if by digital butter knife, each as recognizable to the next as the sandwich itself. I'll spare you too much of a regurgitation here, except in the broadest strokes: It supposedly started as a fancy-ish tea sandwich at the turn of the 20th century, but quickly became a popular lunchtime snack as an increasingly industrialized food system made sliced bread and store-bought jam and peanut butter a common and affordable option to Americans of all economic stripes.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostEventually the PB&J was the brown-bag lunch item to beat; it certainly was when I was a kid in the 80s. I have to imagine it rose in the packed-lunch ranks at least in part because none of its ingredients are prone to spoilage. Little Timmy's sandwich could sit unrefrigerated in his public schoolroom cubby until he finished his numerals, recitations, and spitball attacks for the day and finally got around to shoving the forgotten sandwich into his mouth on the way home. There's a Norman Rockwell of this scene, or at least there ought to be.
Unfortunately for the peanut butter and jelly sandwich, those heights could only last so long before an eventual decline, something that Orson Welles and I understand all too well. As good as the ol' pea-bur was at not giving you a nasty case of the runny peanut-butters, it was just as good at sending unfortunately allergic kiddos into anaphylactic shock. Plus, we all became aware that a sandwich packed with that much sugar probably isn't the best to eat daily.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostNo matter the trend cycle, the PB&J is still a delicious sandwich, and one that brings back pleasant childhood memories for those of us lucky enough not to have been raised on SunButter. I'm sure you can guess that, as simple as the sandwich is, I still have a few things to say about what goes into making a good one. I know you all do too—we asked you, our readers, on Instagram what makes a great PB&J tick and y'all did not disappoint. Actually, I take that back. You did disappoint. Because, while the responses were numerous, they were exceedingly thin on insight. "Ratio," my friends, is not a sufficient answer. But thank you anyway.
So let's talk about PB&Js and ratios and which sides should be slathered with what in a bit more detail. I don't really think I'm going to teach you anything useful, but it'll be fun trying.
The IngredientsThis section is here because Google seems to think recipe headnotes are better with it. I tell you, I wake up every morning and say, "Thank the Lord for the how much better the tech industry has made our cultural output ! I definitely don't miss the days when people just wrote cool stuff." Anyway, you need:
- peanut butter
-and!– - jelly
I trust you to pick the peanut butter and jam you prefer, and to infer that this recipe involves bread despite me not listing it. Because I still have faith in this* audience.
*Did you catch that? Yeah, that little switcheroo is because the correct answer is jam. Strawberry jam, if you asked me, but...did anyone ask for any of this?
(Marginally useful tip buried at the bottom because I'm on a tear: A little sprinkling of salt in the sandwich goes a long way, don't skip it.)
The RatiosAlright, let's actually get into something substantive: the relative amounts of substance in this sandwich. I ran a few tests, if smearing peanut butter and jam on some bread and eating it can be called a "test." I tried three ratios of peanut butter to jam: twice as much peanut butter to jam; the same amount of each; and twice as much jam as peanut butter. This can also be described using the advanced mathematical notation of: 1:2, 1:1, 2:1.
To my taste, either equal parts or more jam than peanut butter is better, though double the amount of jam to peanut butter is a bit much. My personal preference is right in the middle, about 50% more jam than peanut butter by volume, but if that's too sweet for you, a 1:1 ratio will work too. But also, please don't measure, this is a freaking PB&J.
This ratio is scaled specifically to a standard slice of supermarket sandwich bread, which takes me to my next observation: Peanut butter and jelly sandwiches do not scale well. I had visions going into this of taking a beautiful loaf of shokupan and slicing gloriously thick slabs from it, smearing those with lusty amounts of peanut butter and jelly and just gettin' personal with it. Then I did it and wow was it a bad idea. The problem is that as you add to the amount of bread in the sandwich, you need to also increase the filling quantities to prevent each bite from being too bready, and that leads to adding too much peanut butter.
Too much peanut butter—as any person who's tried to silence their midnight hunger as quickly as possible with a whopping spoonful of peanut butter knows—is a very real, very serious thing. I don't just mean this on a taste level, I mean it on a medical level. Too much peanut butter will glue your mouth shut, cause you to gag as it cements your tongue to your soft palate, and eventually kill you. There is nothing pleasant, or even safe, about an oversized PB&J. For your own longevity, I urge you to stick with standard slices of sandwich bread and the appropriate quantities of peanut butter and jam that go with them.
Strategies to Ward off SogginessSerious Eats / Jordan ProvostIf there is one technical challenge to a peanut butter and jelly, it's the dreaded soggy bread, an issue that can turn a lovely little packed lunch into gags of revulsion. The most common solution to this is to put peanut butter on both slices of bread and the jam in the middle, so that the peanut butter acts as a buffer between the jam and the bread. Another tactic is to toast or griddle the bread to crisp the exterior and delay sogginess.
I set up another little "test" where I made sandwiches with bread that was toasted in a toaster oven, crisped lightly in oil, and crisped lightly in butter, and for each of those bread preparations I did a double-sided peanut-buttering and a single-sided peanut-buttering. I kept the sandwiches wrapped in plastic baggies, just as they might be in a packed lunch, and tasted them every 2 hours over the course of the day to see how they held up. Here's what I found:
The takeaway? Toasting/griddling bread is mostly not worth it, but putting peanut butter on both slices of bread can be.
Is any of this a shock?
K, I'm ready to leave it there. Scroll down for the recipe if you want, but don't get your hopes up. It's peanut butter and jelly. You can do this all by yourself.
Evely spread the peanut butter on both slices of bread. Evely spread the jam or jelly on one of the peanut-buttered slices.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostIf desired, sprinkly jam/jelly with salt, then close sandwich and serve or pack for lunch.
Serious Eats / Jordan ProvostNotesToast the bread, if desired. Regular toast using a toaster oven works well if eating the sandwich right way, but in our tests, we found that it grew overly firm and stale as the day progressed, so it's less ideal for a packed lunch. Alternatively, you can lightly griddle the bread in butter or neutral oil, though again please note that bread griddled in butter is not as delicious once the bread has cooled and the butter had congealed, so not ideal for a packed lunch.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinFood processors are heavy and expensive (that is, if you’re getting a good one). But they’re super useful, capable of breaking ingredients down, whipping a sauce together, or kneading dough in the blink of an eye. Still, a food processor’s size is not for the faint of heart—or those who lack storage space.
Enter the mini food processor. Its small stature takes up less space and is easier to move and store. Plus, many models are under $50. With its diminutive size, the mini food processor excels, perhaps unsurprisingly, at small-batch tasks, like making pesto, tahini sauce, marinades, and dressings.
To find the best mini food processors, I tested 11 popular models. I evaluated which ones were efficient at chopping and processing, intuitive to use, easy to clean, and didn’t leak. In the end, four stood out.
The Winners, at a GlanceThis Hamilton Beach model looks and functions like a full-size food processor. It has a feed chute that allows you to drop ingredients in, as well as an insert you can use to push the ingredients (like a small block of cheese) down into the bowl. It’s the only mini processor I tested that also comes with a disk that slices and grates.
This mini food processor worked great, with a generously sized, 4-cup bowl sporting a sturdy, comfortable handle. It quickly and efficiently processed a single garlic clove, as well as chopped pistachios. The lid was easy to lock in place and remove and also had a sizable, contained area with two holes to drizzle oil into the bowl. Its dual switches offer a chop option (the blade goes forward and quickly chops ingredients) and a grind option (the blade reverses direction and grinds ingredients with the duller side).
This Cuisinart model was small in size but mighty in power. Similar to the above 4-cup model, it also processed garlic and nuts easily, but with a slightly smaller capacity and footprint. The lid had the same easy, twist-on and off mechanism, along with a large, contained area to drizzle the oil into the bowl. Its buttons also function similarly, with one chopping the ingredients, and the other reversing the blade direction to grind and smash things into a paste.
The KitchenAid was the largest mini food processor I tested, with a generous 5-cup capacity. Its cordless design meant it was easy to store and move around the kitchen, and the blade comes apart into a stem and blade disk, which made cleaning easier than most models. Pesto and tahini sauce came out perfectly emulsified, too.
The TestsSerious Eats / Irvin Lin Tahini Sauce Test: I made tahini sauce in each model by first processing a single garlic clove to see how well the food processor evenly minced it. I added tahini, water, and lemon juice to see if it leaked. Finally, I drizzled in olive oil while the processor was running. * Pesto Test: I made a pistachio mint pesto to see how well the mini food processor chopped harder ingredients like nuts, how easily it broke down leafy greens, and how it dealt with an oily sauce. * Cleaning Test:* After each test, I took apart and washed each food processor by hand, seeing which parts were difficult to clean and how dangerous it was to scrub the blades.
What We LearnedSmaller Sizes Had Their AdvantagesSerious Eats / Irvin LinA mini food processor excels at processing smaller amounts of ingredients, like a single garlic clove or a handful or two of pistachios.
Full-sized food processors are excellent for grating blocks of cheese or processing large batches of mirepoix, but smaller amounts can get lost in the big bowl (to this end, some models, like the Breville 16-cup also come with smaller inserts). The best mini food processors, with their tinier bowls and lower blades (see below), easily and evenly chopped the single garlic clove, allowing for a super-smooth tahini sauce.
The Lower the Blade, the BetterA sizable gap between the blade and bottom of the mini food processor led to unprocessed ingredients.Serious Eats / Irvin LinMini food processors with blades set higher up in the bowl don’t chop or mince well. Instead, the ingredients clung to the bottom of the bowl, with the blade swinging over them.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinThe best mini processors had blades stationed lower in the base, chopping and processing ingredients efficiently and evenly.
Speed Was ImportantToo-slow food processors (like the one that made the pesto on the left) ineffectively processed and chopped.Serious Eats / Irvin LinMany of the mini food processors had multiple speeds and/or the ability to pulse ingredients. My favorite models were middle-ground speed-wise. The processors that were too fast splashed liquid thanks to their alarmingly zippy blades and small capacity. Other models, like the Mueller Mini Food Processor, moved too slowly even at the highest setting, and were unable to process and chop ingredients finely.
Handles Were HelpfulMy favorite mini food processors had handles on their bowls. Though they look extraneous, especially for food processors that only have 2- to 3-cup capacities, a handle made it easy to add to and remove the bowl from the base of the machine. It was also nice to have something to hold onto when pouring the sauce or liquid out of the bowl.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Mini Food ProcessorSerious Eats / Irvin LinLook for a mini food processor that is somewhere between three to five cups in capacity (any smaller isn’t particularly useful). Any larger, and you might as well upgrade to a full-size food processor. Check to see how low the blade is to the bottom of the bowl. The lower the blade, the better and more evenly the ingredients will be chopped.
Select a processor that has multiple speeds or can easily pulse, so you can initially break down the ingredients coarsely, before processing at a higher or more consistent speed to finely chop and mince. Finally, look for a sturdy mini food processor—one made of thick, durable plastic or metal.
Our Favorite Mini Food ProcessorsWhat we liked: This Hamilton Beach model was the only food processor that offered the same sort of versatility as a standard-sized one. The lid had a chute that was large enough to accommodate a small block of cheese, as well as whole ingredients like shallots. It also had a pusher with a hole in its center, which lets you slowly drizzle oil into the bowl, making it easier to produce emulsified sauces like mayonnaise. The thick handle felt comfortable to hold, and the bowl also had a pouring spout.
It was the only processor I tested that had an "on" button that allowed it to run continuously (the rest of the models just had a pulse option). Tahini sauce came out silky and pesto was smooth. The machine also came with a reversible slicing and shredding disk, which no other model offered. The base has suction cups on its underside, adding stability.
What we didn’t like: The lid snaps onto the top of the bowl with two clamps, but also has a piece of plastic that needs to be slotted into the bowl’s handle, which was fussy.
Key Specs Dimensions: 13.5 x 8.25 x 6 inches * Attachments: Bowl, lid with feed chute, food pusher, chopping and mixing blade, reversible slicing/shredding disc * Dishwasher-safe: Yes, removable parts are dishwasher-safe * Material: Plastic; stainless steel * Wattage: 250 watts * Stated capacity: 4 cups * Weight: 3 pounds,5.75 ounces * Warranty:* 1 year (US) or 5 years (Canada)
Serious Eats / Irvin LinWhat we liked: This 4-cup mini food processor easily tackled everything from a single garlic clove to pistachios, taking them from whole ingredients to a smooth paste in a flash.
The lid twisted on easily and intuitively and featured a large, contained area with two holes in it, where you could pour oil and let it drizzle into the processor. It had two large switches: chop and grind. The chop button turned the blades forward, slicing the ingredients into smaller bits. The grind button reversed the direction of the blade, with the blunt end smashing ingredients into a smooth paste.
What we didn’t like: Unlike the Hamilton Beach 4-Cup model, you need to constantly press the power button for the Cuisinart to stay on, which can get tedious.
Key Specs Dimensions: 9.5 x 7.5 x 5.5 inches * Attachments: Bowl, lid, blade, spatula * Dishwasher-safe: Yes, removable parts are dishwasher-safe * Material: Plastic; stainless steel * Wattage: 250 watts * Weight: 2 pounds, 9.875 ounces * Stated capacity: 4 cups * Warranty:* 18 months
Serious Eats / Irvin LinWhat we liked: With a smaller 3-cup capacity, the Cuisinart Mini Prep Plus was a more compact offering that still created smooth pesto and emulsified tahini sauce. This model has all the same features as its larger 4-cup sibling, including a locking lid with two holes for oil drizzling, and a blade that moves in different directions (chopping when forward and grinding ingredients in reverse).
What we didn’t like: Like the Core Custom 4-Cup model, this model requires you to constantly press the on button for the Cuisinart Mini Prep Plus to run continuously.
Key Specs Dimensions: 9 x 7 x 5 inches * Attachments: Bowl, lid, blade, spatula * Dishwasher-safe: Yes, removable parts are dishwasher-safe * Material: Plastic; stainless steel * Wattage: 250 watts * Weight: 2 pounds, 6.25 ounces * Stated capacity: 3 cups * Warranty:* 18 months
Serious Eats / Irvin LinWhat we liked: Less expensive than a full-size food processor, with a much smaller footprint, the KitchenAid 5-Cup did a great job processing small ingredients like a single garlic clove, while still having the capacity for larger tasks.
This mini food processor is also the only one I tested that was cordless, which made it easy to store and move around. The interior blade is made of two parts, with a blade disk that you can remove from the stem, which makes cleaning a breeze. The food processor also comes with a whisking disk that can be used to make things like whipped cream.
What we didn’t like: To turn the processor on, you press and hold a trigger on the handle, which felt annoying during long processing times. You can’t charge and use the food processor at the same time.
Key Specs Dimensions: 10 x 5.5 x 7 inches * Attachments: Bowl, lid, drive adapter, blade, whisking disc, and charger * Dishwasher-safe: Yes, removable parts are dishwasher-safe * Material: Plastic; stainless steel * Wattage: Unknown * Weight: 2 pounds, 11.75 ounces * Stated capacity: 5 cups * Warranty:* 1 year
Serious Eats / Irvin LinThe Competition* Black + Decker 1.5-Cup One-Touch Electric Food Chopper: The Black + Decker Food Chopper had a lid with multiple holes all around it in a circle that allowed liquid to splash out when I made tahini sauce. * KitchenAid 3.5-Cup Food Chopper: The KitchenAid 3.5-Cup Food Chopper did an adequate job in both the tahini sauce and pesto tests, but it costs more than comparable models. * Ninja Express Chop: This mini food processor had the bowl on the bottom instead of the top of the machine. Liquid splashed up onto the top motor, which meant you had to clean the motorized part (not ideal). * Hamilton Beach Electric Food Chopper & Mini 3-Cup Food Processor: This food processor had a lid that was difficult to clean thanks to a narrow space between the outer and inner rim. * Cuisinart Mini Prep Food Processor: This compact mini food processor did a fine job making tahini sauce and pesto. However, its bowl lacked a handle, which made it more difficult to use. * Mueller Electric Food Chopper: The Mueller did a poor job of chopping hard ingredients like nuts, leading to a coarse and uneven pesto. Suffice it to say, its motor was weak. * Proctor Silex Durable Electric Vegetable Chopper: This mini food processor did not have a hole or any way to drizzle oil into the processor, making it less versatile for emulsified sauces like mayonnaise.
FAQWhat is a mini food processor used for? Mini food processors are ideal for making things like sauces, salad dressings, salsas, and mayonnaise, as well as chopping smaller amounts of vegetables and produce.
Is it worth getting a mini food processor? Depending on your lifestyle, a mini food processor might be a great addition to your household. Mini food processors cost significantly less than a full-size food processor and can be versatile. They are also easier to store and take up little countertop space.
What’s the best size for a mini food processor?For most people, a 3- to 4-cup capacity mini food processor is ideal. This size is large enough to fit most sauce recipes, but not so large that small amounts of ingredients bounce around without getting chopped.
Why We’re the Experts Irvin Lin is a cookbook author, recipe developer, food writer, photographer, and ceramicist. He wrote Marbled, Swirled, and Layered, which was picked by The New York Times* as one of the best baking cookbooks of 2016. * Irvin also runs a blog called Eat the Love, where he’s developed, photographed, and written recipes since 2010. * He’s product tested and reviewed hundreds of kitchen items including stand mixers anddigital thermometers. * For this review, Irvin tested 11 mini food processors, making tahini sauce and pesto sauce and hand-cleaning them after each use to find the best ones.
Serious Eats / Two BitesNew York City has a myriad of heavy hitting sandwiches: We’re home to the legendary bacon, egg, and cheese, we’ve got some mean pastrami on rye, and, of course, there’s the chopped cheese. Though not as well-known as the BEC, the chopped cheese is just as beloved among New Yorkers—an “if you know you know” kind of sandwich that’s sold at bodegas, the city’s iconic corner stores. It generally consists of hamburger patties and sliced onions that are cooked on a griddle; the mixture then gets chopped up and topped with slices of melty American cheese before it’s loaded into a hero or roll with tomato slices, shredded lettuce, and whatever condiments your heart desires. Wrap that baby up, and you’re in for something beautiful.
Before we dive into what makes a great chopped cheese, let’s get a few things straight.
- Chopped cheese isn't a Philly cheesesteak nor is it similar. This is New York, not Philly, bro!
- It might remind you of a cheeseburger, but it’s not. It’s better. Fight me.
- Once we add truffles, blue cheese, and balsamic-glazed red onions we are no longer in chopped cheese territory. Those fancy-pants ingredients may make a tasty sandwich, but it’s certainly not chopped cheese.
- Chopped cheese is food for the people. Once it costs more than $12, it’s for the 1%. That's hella capitalism.
Key Ingredients for Perfect Chopped CheeseSome of the city’s best sandwiches come from the humble bodega, and the chopped cheese is no exception. It’s a bodega classic, the ideal meal after a late night out when all you want is something greasy and satisfying. But what makes a truly excellent chopped cheese, and how do you make one that’s just as good—if not even better—than the one sold at your local corner store? With chopped cheese readily available just down the block, New Yorkers may not need to make their own. But if you’ve ever lived in the Big Apple and want to recreate the sandwich, here’s everything you need to make a bodega-worthy chopped cheese.
Serious Eats / Two BitesThe MeatDry beef? No, thanks. Like a good burger patty, you want to use beef with a higher fat ratio to ensure the meat is tender and juicy after it’s cooked. Using 80/20 ground beef provides just the right amount of fat. Ground chuck, which typically falls in this range, is a good option here; it’s what Kenji recommends for his classic smashed burgers, too. As for the cook on the beef, we’re aiming for well-done. A medium-rare chopped cheese just isn’t something New Yorkers do, nor is it possible—in order for the sandwich and its fillings to really meld together, it’s essential to wrap the sandwich in foil after you assemble it so the residual heat can help glue the chopped cheese together. Even if you manage to leave the beef pink, it’s unlikely it’ll stay that way after it’s been wrapped. There’s a time and place for medium-rare meat, and it’s not here.
The SeasoningWhen I think of chopped cheese, sazón or adobo come to mind. The two have similar flavor profiles: With a blend of cumin, coriander, garlic, oregano, annatto, and salt and pepper, sazón lends an earthy and slightly floral note to the ground meat and onions. Adobo, on the other hand, calls for paprika in place of annatto, and brings a sweet, smoky, and savory flavor. If you don’t have sazón or adobo, you can use garlic powder and onion powder for extra flavor, it just won’t taste the same.
The BreadHero or roll? It depends on your hunger level. A hero is much heftier; it's about twice the size of a roll, so if you’re ravenous or want leftovers, that’s the move. But if you’re looking for a quick bite or something to eat on-the-go, the roll is the way to go.
American Cheese Only, PleaseThere’s only one cheese that’s acceptable here and it’s American. In all my years of eating chopped cheese in New York, this is the only cheese I’ve come across in the sandwich. Its meltability and gooeyness—a texture some might even describe as “plasticky”—is truly unrivaled, and its creaminess complements both the savory beef and the freshness of the tomatoes and lettuce. Is it the best cheese to eat on its own? No. Is it the best cheese for this sandwich? Yes.
Serious Eats / Two BitesHow to Cook It RightAttempting a New York classic at home might be intimidating, but it’s really quite straightforward—and requires just a single cast iron skillet. After you melt the butter and toast the buns, you’ll cook the thinly sliced onions until they soften, then push them aside to fry the patties. You want to give the patties a chance to develop a nice, dark crust, so it’s essential to let them sit for about 3 minutes before you flip them and cook the other side. Next comes the crucial part: chopping it all up until the meat is in bite-size pieces. Stir in the onions, season it all with sazón, then separate them into two piles. Slap those cheese slices on, and once they’ve melted, you’ll load it all into the toasted bread with tomatoes and lettuce.
The Importance of WrappingSo you’ve cooked the chopped cheese and you’d like to take a bite. But wait a minute—there’s one step left, and it’s wrapping it all up in foil. Though wrapping may not seem like a big deal, it’s crucial to bundle up your chopped cheese tightly in foil to trap the residual heat and steam. This keeps the sandwich hotter for longer and guarantees that the cheese—the glue holding the sandwich’s contents together—melts properly. It also steams the bread, softening it just enough that it's pillowy and tender, not cold and stale. Some delis use a combination of both parchment and foil, but that isn’t necessary. Parchment gets (and stays) wet easily, and can make it more difficult for you to eat your sandwich. For ease and practicality, foil is the way to go.
If you live in New York City where you can just buy a chopped cheese, you might not be inclined to make this sandwich. But for anyone who doesn't live in the Big Apple and wants to see what the hype is all about, consider giving this recipe a try. I guarantee you won't be disappointed.
Serious Eats / Two BitesSerious Eats / Two BitesDivide meat into 2 even portions, about 4 ounces (115g) each. Form into two 4-inch patties. Season patties liberally with kosher salt and pepper, transfer to a plate, and set aside.
Serious Eats / Two BitesIn a 10- or 12-inch cast iron skillet, heat butter over medium heat until melted. Place buns cut side down and toast, one at a time, until lightly golden, 2 minutes. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Two BitesIn the now-empty skillet, heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions, season with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Two BitesUsing a heat-proof spatula or wooden spoon, push onions to one side of the skillet and add the patties to the empty side of the skillet. Cook without moving, until a dark crust develops, about 3 minutes. Using a spatula, carefully flip patties and cook until dark brown crust develops on second side, about 1 minute. Using the spatula, stir in the onions and sazón while breaking up patties until meat is chopped up into bite-sized pieces no larger than 1/2 inch. Cook until meat is no longer pink, 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Serious Eats / Two BitesIn the pan, divide ground beef and onion mixture into 2 individual portions the length of the rolls. Shingle 2 slices of American cheese over each portion; allow cheese to melt, 1 to 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Two BitesTo Assemble: On a clean work surface, lay out a 16-inch wide piece of aluminum foil or parchment paper. Place toasted roll, cut side up, onto foil at a bias. Dress bread with desired condiments, fill with meat and onion mixture, and top with tomato slices and lettuce. Close sandwich and wrap tightly with foil. Using a serrated knife, halve the sandwich crosswise, and serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Two BitesSpecial EquipmentRimmed baking sheet, cast iron skillet, heat-proof spatula or wooden spoon, aluminum foil or parchment paper, serrated knife
NotesThe recipe can be doubled to serve 4.
Churrasco takes different forms around South and Central America. This one channels the Argentine approach, cooked on a plancha or grill and bathed in herbal and garlicky chimichurri sauce.
We tested the GE Profile Smart Mixer and while it was great in analog mode, it’s smart features let us down.
Studies have shown that it is more likely to spread harmful bacteria than wash it away. Whether you wash your chicken or not, the most important thing is to apply good food safety practices at home to avoid cross-contamination and the spread of illness-causing bacteria; here, we walk through all of these best practices.
We smashed a whole lotta foods—burgers, bacon, and sandwiches—to find the best grill presses.
These beef chuck recipes prove that you can create extraordinarily delicious meals—from comforting stews and soups to barbecue show-stoppers—without having to splurge on expensive cuts like brisket or short ribs
This Bavarian-style soft pretzel recipe is as straightforward as this kind of recipe gets, yielding six crisp, chewy tender pretzels.
We tested the most popular shaved ice makers out there—and found two favorites (including a stand mixer attachment).
Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThere are plenty of ways to differentiate a soup from a stew—the ratio of liquid to ingredients, for example, or the size to which said ingredients are cut. But let's put technical factors aside for a moment, and take a slightly less tangible approach: For starters, soup invites you to slide into a light cardigan and find comfort at the dining room table, while stew prefers you slip into your most obnoxiously thick knitwear—a turtleneck so chunky you can barely see over the top, for example—and settle in next to a roaring fire. If soup suggests you get on with your day, stew wants you to lick your bowl clean of its long-simmered sauce, then (please) take that nap you've been dreaming about for weeks.
That is to say: Whether meaty or vegan, complex or as humble as can be, stews offer a kind of extreme comfort that few other dishes can. Here are 15 of our favorites, each worth digging out your beefiest turtleneck for.
Boeuf Bourguignon (Beef Stew With Red Wine, Mushrooms, & Bacon)Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik“One of the most delicious beef stews concocted by man,” according to Julia Child, and we agree. Here we cook the stew with large pieces of aromatic vegetables, then discard those in favor of fresh diced and lightly sautéed ones later, yielding a flavorful stew with vegetables that haven't been cooked to death.
Soondubu Jjigae (Korean Soft Tofu Stew)Serious Eats / Jessica LeibowitzKimchi, small dried anchovies, gochujang, and Korean chile flakes (all of which can be found in most Asian supermarkets) build complex layers of flavor in the broth—even though it all comes together in a remarkably short amount of time.
Hearty One-Pot Black-Eyed Pea Stew With Kale and AndouilleSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltCooked in one pot, this easy-to make, easy-to-clean stew is perfect for a lazy Sunday. Not only that, but it becomes even more flavorful overnight in the fridge.
Colombian Chicken Stew With Potatoes, Tomato, and OnionSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltReady to eat in just 30 minutes, this deceptively-simple Colombian stew is made in a pressure cooker without any added water; the end result is tender meat that falls off the bone and a richly-flavored broth with concentrated chicken and tomato flavors.
Cioppino (San Francisco Seafood Stew)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikGood cioppino starts with a rich broth and ends with perfectly cooked fish. In this recipe, we carefully sequence the poaching of each type of seafood, then serve it with a roasted red pepper salsa that adds even more layers of flavor to SF’s most famous stew.
All-American Beef StewSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltLiberated from the strong opinions tied to ‘authentic’ beef bourguignon and goulash, American beef stew is open to much wider interpretations. Here, we opt for tender beef and vegetables coated in an intense, umami-rich sauce.
Traditional French CassouletSerious Eats / Fred Hardy, Ana Kelly, Josh HoggleHere come the French with another famous meaty stew, this time a combination of poultry, sausage, pork, and beans all melded together under a rich, dark brown crust.
Classic Oyster Stew With FennelSerious Eats / Vicky WasikWhile it's not thick like a clam chowder or hearty like a beef stew, this oyster stew manages to soothe in its own perfectly restrained way; it’s also one of the simplest and quickest cold-weather comforts to prepare.
Provençal RatatouilleSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis classic Provençal stew allows ripe, late-summer produce to shine. Cooking the vegetables separately allows you to control perfectly the level of doneness for each one; simmering them together then briefly melds their flavors.
Goulash (Hungarian Beef and Paprika Stew)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThis old-fashioned goulash is loaded with vegetables, beef, and its famous signature—sweet Hungarian paprika—making for a hearty winter meal.
Braised Pork and Bean Stew With Cinnamon, Fennel, and OnionSerious Eats / Debbie WeeNear-melted beans and spoon-tender pork are just the thing for a cold evening.
Quick and Easy Pressure Cooker Chicken and Black Bean StewSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThis easy, one-pot meal is packed with flavor and ready in under an hour. We stew black beans in the pressure cooker with spicy Hatch chiles, smoky andouille sausage, and chicken legs. The final product is rich and the chicken fall-off-the-bone tender.
Ribollita (Hearty Tuscan Bean, Bread, and Vegetable Stew)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThis hearty Tuscan riff on minestrone is loaded with tender vegetables and beans, and differentiates itself by being thickened with bread. The final consistency can be adjusted by leaving the stew more broth-y, or by cooking it down into a thicker porridge.
Nigerian Beef StewSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineA mainstay of many Nigerian meals, there are countless ways to make this ultra-flavorful dish. Here we start by cooking beef chuck in a seasoned broth, then reserve the resulting stock to cook the stew; to further deepen the beef's flavor, we roast it before adding it to the pot.
Real Bouillabaisse (Bouillabaisse Marseillaise)Serious Eats / Liz ClaymanBouillabaisse (pronounced "BOO-ya-bess") is a rustic fish stew from the Provençal port city of Marseille. Aside from the variety of fish, it's defined by a handful of key ingredients and flavors: floral saffron, sweet and anise-y fennel, and a subtle note of orange zest.
Serious Eats / Laura EdwardsLentils are a universally beloved pantry staple. Whether a singular star ingredient or combined with other components in a dish, there is no denying the importance of this nutritional powerhouse in many cultures. Lentils are prominently featured in traditional dal, blended with rice for South Indian crepe batter, stewed with meat and vegetables for hearty one-pot meals, tossed with vegetables, fruit, and herbs in salads, and provide the foundation for countless soups. These recipes will take you on a tour across the globe, featuring perhaps the world's most beloved legume.
Easy French Lentils With Garlic and HerbsSerious Eats / Vicky WasikCooking lentils properly and layering in flavors adds complexity to a deceptively simple French classic.
Roasted Eggplant With Tahini, Pine Nuts, and LentilsSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltTender caramelized roasted eggplant is served on a bed of savory lentil stew, and lavished with a creamy garlic tahini sauce and crunchy toasted pine nuts.
Roasted Tomatoes and Lentils With Dukka-Crumbed EggsSerious Eats / Laura EdwardsLentils dressed in a tangy vinaigrette and roasted tomatoes smeared with harissa are topped with a soft-cooked egg crusted in dukka, a traditional Egyptian spice blend of toasted nuts and seeds.
Bengali Rice Porridge With Lentils and ChickenSerious Eat / Vicky WasikThis chicken-potato-red lentil porridge is bright with turmeric and seasoned with ginger, a pungent hit of mustard oil, and a garnish of spicy green chutney.
Dosa (Indian Rice-and-Lentil Crepes)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikMade from rice and urad dal, this quintessentially South Indian savory crepe can be served with any number of fillings or accouterments. Double fermentation gives this batter its signature sourdough-like tang and light, crisp, and chewy texture.
Dal TadkaSerious Eats / Prasanna SankheRich and poor, festival fare or frugal meal, dal is the great leveler of Indian food and is a dish that's common across the extreme diversity of the country.
Moroccan Egg Drop Harira (Vegetable and Legume Soup)Serious Eats / Jen CauseyHarira is nutrient-dense soup that's enjoyed across Morocco, particularly during Ramadan when it's often served to break the fast. This version is made with both lentils and chickpeas and finished with beaten eggs which form little wispy egg bits in the silken soup.
Easy Lentil SoupSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltLemon zest, garlic, and parsley are the secret to simple, but ultra-flavorful, lentil soup.
Mulligatawny SoupSerious Eats / Sydney OlandAlthough there are many variations of this popular Anglo-Indian soup, lentils, toasted spices, and sweetness are key elements in this version.
Smoky Lentil Salad With Zucchini and Poblano PeppersSerious Eats / Vicky WasikLentils seasoned with smoked paprika and cumin get an extra hit of spice from poblano peppers. Tossed with grilled or broiled zucchini, this robust salad makes for an ideal potluck dish to feed a crowd.
Bright Lentil Salad With Apples, Fennel, and HerbsSerious Eats / Kerry SaretskyKerry Saretsky's take on her favorite go-to dish from London's La Petite Maison transforms seemingly ordinary ingredients into a sophisticated salad.
Cumin-Scented Lentils With Sausage and Dandelion GreensSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThe secret to building a deep flavor base for this simple one-pot meal of saucy lentils and sausage is cumin seeds bloomed in hot oil.
Pressure Cooker Chicken, Lentil, and Bacon Stew With CarrotsSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltAside from a quick sauté of pancetta and onions, this rich, flavorful stew of fall-off-the-bone tender chicken, lentils, and carrots comes together in just about 30 minutes—perfect weeknight meal.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubBreville’s espresso machine lineup combines user-friendly design with professional-quality espresso. They were one of the first companies to add a PID controller (an algorithm-driven precision temperature control module) to home espresso machines. Breville also pioneered quick-heating steam wands that were ready to go in seconds and added user-friendly details (like cleaning instructions on the water reservoir) that helped demystify the shot-pulling experience for new home baristas.
At the same time, a lot of their espresso machines look similar and only reveal their differences when you get down to the technical nitty-gritty. We put together this guide to highlight our favorite tested Breville espresso machines—along with a handful of others that we’ve had hands-on experience with—to help you decide which model is right for you.
Our Favorite Breville Espresso Machines, at a Glance The Best Overall Espresso Machine: Breville Bambino Plus * The Best Espresso Machine for Beginners: Breville Barista Express Impress * A Handsome Espresso Machine with a Built-in Grinder: Breville Barista Pro * A Touchscreen Machine with a Built-in Grinder:* BrevilleBarista Touch Impress
Packed with high-end features like precise PID temperature control (an algorithm-driven computer that regulates boiler heating) and an automatic milk steaming wand that aerates the milk for you, the Bambino Plus is also a user-friendly espresso machine well-suited for beginners and pros alike. It’s quick to heat up, has a simple and intuitive interface, and is small enough to fit on almost any kitchen counter. And, of course, it pulls really tasty espresso shots, winning the designation as our top overall espresso machine during testing (we evaluated 14 models).
Best for: While this machine brews great espresso, its automatic milk steaming wand makes it an excellent choice for latte and cappuccino drinkers. It has three presets for both milk texture and temperature, delivering cafe-quality milk at the push of a button, and it’s one of the cheapest machines in Breville’s lineup. For those with aesthetics on the mind, it comes in three colors (including a striking deep blue).
Challenges or shortcomings: Our biggest gripe with this machine is its programmable volume buttons—they couldn’t consistently deliver the same amount of espresso. Instead, we recommend stopping your shots manually.
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezGood to Know: * Breville also has another entry-level model—the Breville Duo Temp—but it lacks a PID, has a clunky dial to pull your shot instead of buttons, has a manual steam wand, and is overall the same price as the Bambino Plus with considerably fewer features. * If you’re on a budget and don’t mind steaming milk yourself, the Breville Bambino features the same shot-pulling capabilities, just with a manual steam wand. It also has a smaller boiler (only 47 ounces) and will need to have its water reservoir topped off more often.
Key Specs Dimensions: 8 x 13 x 12 inches * Weight: 11 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 54 millimeter * Capacity: 1 liter * Comes with: 54mm tamper, the Razor precision dosing tool, stainless steel milk jug, 1- and 2-cup single wall & dual wall filter baskets, cleaning tool, cleaning disc * Care instructions: Backflush with coffee detergent according to the manufacturer's instructions * Warranty: 2-year limited product warranty * Price at time of publish:* $500
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezFor anyone new to espresso, the Barista Express Impress has a built-in grinder, automated coffee dosing, and an assisted tamping lever—and it’s the machine of choice for multiple Serious Eats staffers. It has the same precise PID temperature control as other Breville machines, only this one automates every step of the shot-pulling process for you. We were thoroughly impressed (get it) during testing by its coffee dosing system, which consistently portioned out coffee grounds within a half-gram every time. In order to achieve the correct dose, the system uses a series of lights to tell you if the puck is too shallow or high. A just-right puck displays a green light next to a smiley face to let the user know they have the right amount of coffee. It was easy to pull delicious shots, and its steam wand was able to produce microfoam silky enough to pour latte art.
Best for: This is an excellent machine for anyone who is excited about espresso drinks at home and wants a streamlined drink-making process that doesn’t require extra training. Perfecting espresso techniques can be time-consuming, but even a person brand new to home espresso can make a great latte within minutes of setting up the machine for the first time.
Challenges or shortcomings: Like the Bambino Plus, we wish the programmable espresso volume buttons were more consistent, and we recommend stopping your shots manually. The built-in grinder is also more limited than a standalone espresso grinder, which would have more settings to experiment with in the ideal espresso range.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubGood to know: * The automatic coffee dosing system takes a little tweaking to perfect. After the machine automatically portions your coffee out, you use the tamping lever to compact the espresso puck. If the dose is too high, the grinder automatically delivers less coffee the next time. If the dose is too low, the user manually tops up the coffee and re-tamps until the green light triggers next to the smiley face. The grinder then gives you that same amount of coffee the next time. * Because the automatic coffee dosing and assisted tamping lever are designed around the filter baskets that come with the machine, you aren’t able to swap these parts out for third-party filter baskets.
Key Specs Dimensions: 13 x 15 x 16 inches * Weight: 24 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 54 millimeter * Capacity: 2 liters * Grind settings: 25 * Comes with: Stainless steel milk jug, 1- and 2-cup single and dual wall filter baskets, water filter holder with filter, the Razor precision trimming tool, cleaning tablets, Allen key, steam wand cleaning tool, cleaning disc, cleaning brush, descaling powder * Care instructions: Backflush with coffee detergent according to manufacturer's instructions * Warranty: 2-year repair, replacement warranty * Price at time of publish:* $900
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubIf you like the idea of a built-in grinder but want a more hands-on approach, the Barista Pro has 30 grind settings—more than any other Breville espresso machine—and you can also control how much coffee the grinder doses into your portafilter based on a digital timer that’s easy to adjust. Like the rest of the Breville lineup, it’s quick to heat up, has precision PID temperature control, and pulls great espresso shots.
Best for: Anyone who’s looking for more control over their espresso but still wants the convenience of a built-in grinder. The Barista Pro also lets the user adjust how much coffee the grinder portions out, so if you’re picky about your espresso quality, you can tinker away to your heart’s delight.
Challenges or shortcomings: In our testing, the Barista Pro’s grinder couldn’t match the grind precision of a standalone espresso grinder. While we still like this machine, we prefer the extra automation of the Barista Express Impress and the espresso quality of the Bambino Plus paired with a grinder.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubGood to know: * The Barista Pro uses a ThermoJet heating system, like the Bambino Plus, which is more efficient and heats up faster. This boiler, plus more grind settings and a digital timer for coffee portioning, helps set it apart from the Barrsta Express, which looks very similar. * There’s also the Breville Barista Touch, which is a version of the Barista Pro that adds a touchscreen for easier control and step-by-step guides. It’s expensive, and we prefer the BrevilleBarista Touch Impress (which we detail below) for its automated dosing and assisted tamping lever.
Key Specs Dimensions: 13.9 x 13.5 x 16 inches * Weight: 20 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 54 millimeter * Capacity: 2 liters * Grind settings: 30 * Comes with: Dosing funnel attachment, single & dual wall (1- and 2-cup) filter baskets, the Razor precision dose trimming tool, stainless steel milk jug, cleaning kit, water filter * Care instructions: Backflush with coffee detergent according to the manufacturer's instructions * Warranty: 2-year limited product warranty * Price at time of publish:* $850
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezThe Barista Express is a no-frills espresso machine with a built-in grinder and an approachable price point. It’s easy to use, features the same PID temperature control as every other Breville machine, and has 16 grind settings and a dose adjustment dial to fine-tune the grinder delivering more or less coffee into the filter basket. Its steam wand also heats up in under a minute and is powerful enough to create microfoam for latte art.
Best for: The Barista Express is Breville’s most popular espresso machine, and it’s easy to see why. It’s a simple, straightforward model with a built-in grinder, and what it lacks in features it makes up for in value compared to buying a standalone espresso machine and grinder.
Challenges or shortcomings: The biggest shortcoming of the Barista Express is its lack of features. While it’s Breville’s least expensive espresso machine with a built-in grinder, the Barista Pro and Barista Express Impress are only marginally more expensive for either more automation or more precise control. It’s also around the same price as pairing a Bambino Plus with a Baratza Encore ESP (one of our favorite espresso grinders).
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezGood to know:* This machine is Breville’s most popular model. It’s been around since 2011 (with an overhaul in 2013), and compared to buying a standalone espresso machine and grinder, it’s a good price point. However, we recommend the Breville Barista Express Impress if someone wants a machine with streamlined shot pulling for its wider variety of grind settings and automated dosing and tamping system.
Key Specs Dimensions: 12.5 x 13.8 x 16 inches * Weight: 23 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 54 millimeter * Capacity: 2 liters * Grind settings: 16 * Comes with: Dosing funnel attachment, single and dual wall (1- and 2-cup) filter baskets, the Razor precision dose trimming tool, stainless steel milk jug, cleaning kit, water filter * Care instructions: Backflush with coffee detergent according to the manufacturer's instructions * Warranty: 1-year limited product warranty * Price at time of publish:* $750
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezFor the ultimate user experience, the Barista Touch Impress combines Breville’s intuitive touchscreen controls with the automated dosing and assisted tamping of the Express Impress and the automatic milk steaming of the Bambino Plus. Just select a drink on the touchscreen, and the machine will walk you through every step of how to make it (including letting you know if your shot pulled too fast or slow). The automatic steam wand also has an auto-purge for easy cleaning, and it even has settings for different kinds of plant milks. This is also the first Breville grinder to implement precision Baratza burrs (the same ones used in our favorite grinders) since they bought the company in 2020.
Best for: If you’re looking for an espresso machine that does most of the work for you, you’ll be happy with the Barista Touch Impress. It’s an easy-to-use espresso machine with a built-in grinder and a touchscreen that can make your barista ambitions a reality.
Challenges or shortcomings: To start, this machine is expensive. And while the features work well, together they can be limiting for a more experienced home barista who wants to experiment more with their espresso specs.
Good to know: * This is a pricey machine. The touchscreen is really handy, the Baratza burrs are a nice upgrade, and we like the alternative milk settings for the automated steam wand. We think the Breville Barista Express Impress is still an excellent alternative—at nearly half the price.
Key Specs Dimensions: 16 x 14.1 x 13.5 inches * Weight: 31 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 54 millimeter * Capacity: 2 liters * Grind settings: 30 * Comes with: Stainless steel milk jug, 1- and 2-cup single and dual wall filter baskets, water filter holder with filter, water hardness strip, the Razor precision trimming tool, cleaning tablets, steam wand cleaning tool, cleaning disc, cleaning brush, descaling powder * Care instructions: Backflush with coffee detergent according to the manufacturer's instructions * Warranty: 2-year limited product warranty * Price at time of publish:* $1500
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmIf you’re looking to make the leap to a professional-style espresso machine that still features Breville’s user-friendly touches (like retractable wheels for moving around your counter), the Dual Boiler is a big step up from Breville’s Barista series. To start, it features independent boilers for brewing and its steam wand, which means you can steam milk and pull shots at the same time. It also has a much more powerful steam wand than most of the Breville lineup, and allows you to adjust your brew temperature by a single degree Fahrenheit, in case you want to experiment with slightly hotter or cooler brew temps. The Dual Boiler features a 58-millimeter portafilter instead of Breville’s usual 54-millimeter diameter, which makes it compatible with our recommended filter basket upgrade for sweeter-tasting shots. And although it’s a small detail, the Dual Boiler has a manual operation button for more control over your espresso brewing—something we’re grateful for since the automatic volume buttons tend to be inconsistent. To top it all off, it automatically times your shots on its digital display—no more fiddling with an external timer in one hand while you pull a shot with the other.
Best for: Anyone looking to take the next step in pulling professional-style espresso shots will greatly appreciate the Dual Boiler’s precision. It’s a great jump-up in machine quality while still being user-friendly—Breville’s attention to detail includes a hidden tray for cleaning supplies, a pop-up sign when the drip tray is full, and cleaning instructions printed on the back of the water reservoir.
Challenges and shortcomings: It’s one of Breville’s most expensive espresso machines, but in terms of what you get for the price, it’s a decent value. Most espresso machines with dual boilers run closer to $2,000 and are made by niche espresso machine companies, making the Breville Dual Boiler a great option for people ready to take the next step while still having access to a customer support line.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubGood to know:* The Oracle is Breville’s version of the Dual Boiler with a built-in grinder and automatic steam wand (like the Bambino Plus). But for a machine that has this much espresso-pulling precision, we think you’re better off pairing the Dual Boiler with a high-end espresso grinder like the Baratza Sette 270, which has 270 grind settings compared to the 45 that the Oracle offers. * The Oracle Touch is—you guessed it—the touchscreen version of the Oracle, and while it adds the same step-by-step usability of the other Touch machines, we think part of the appeal of the Dual Boiler is how much freedom it gives the barista to experiment, and someone looking for an automated experience would probably get more out of the BrevilleBarista Touch Impress (which is a good deal cheaper, too).
Key Specs Dimensions: 15.9 x 14.7 x 14.9 inches * Weight: 23 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 58 millimeter * Capacity: 2.5 liters * Comes with: 58mm razor dosing tool, 58mm stainless steel portafilter, 1-cup and 2-cup single and dual wall filter baskets, tamper, stainless steel milk jug, cleaning kit, water hardness test strip, water filter holder, and water filter * Care instructions: Backflush with coffee detergent according to the manufacturer's instructions * Warranty:* 2-year limited product warranty
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubFAQsWhat is the best Breville espresso machine?In all of our testing, we found the Breville Bambino Plus to be the best overall espresso machine for its espresso quality, automatic milk steaming, small footprint, and lower cost. If you’re looking for a machine with a built-in grinder and more automation, the Breville Barista Express Impress is another great option.
Are Breville espresso machines easy to use?Breville’s espresso machines are very user-friendly. They have intuitive button placement, easy-to-read interfaces, and hidden storage for tools. Most machines feature cleaning instructions printed right on the water reservoir for easy maintenance.
Are Breville espresso machines worth the price? Breville’s espresso machine lineup features commercial-style features while being comparable in price to other consumer-level espresso machines. Most notably, Breville includes a PID temperature control module in all of its machines that regulates brewing temperatures within a tenth of a degree Fahrenheit; this is usually only found in a professional espresso machine.
Why We're the Experts* Jesse Raub is the commerce writer for Serious Eats. He worked for 15 years in the specialty coffee industry and is our resident coffee expert, having tackled numerous coffee-related stories including reviews of coffee scales, handheld coffee grinders, and semi-automatic espresso machines. He's also helped test espresso machines. * We've independently reviewed espresso machines (including models from Breville, Gaggia, and Rancilio). We've also continued to test new espresso machines as they come out, including the Breville Barista Express Impress and Barista Touch Impress.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPomegranates have been associated with life, death, rebirth, eternal life, fertility, abundance, and marriage. In Ancient Greek mythology, it was the pomegranate that explained the change in seasons. The story goes that when Hades married Persephone and took her to the underworld, he tricked her into eating six pomegranate seeds, which condemned her to spend eternity there. This caused Persephone's mother Demeter, goddess of fertility, to go into mourning, which meant everything on land ceased to grow—but only for six months of each year.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSince she ate six seeds, Persephone was freed from the underworld and allowed to see her mother the other six months of the year. It was those months (spring and summer) when mother and daughter were reunited, and the land was fertile.
I can't promise you the same effect if you eat pomegranate seeds, but they're delicious anyway. To find the best, easiest, least messy method for removing the seeds, I put three common methods to the test. The clear winner is outlined in the recipe steps below.
Method 1: Whack With a Wooden SpoonTechnique: Halve the pomegranate across the equator (not poll to poll). Working with one half at a time, hold it cut side down over a large bowl. Using a heavy wooden spoon or spatula, firmly hit the skin side of the halved pomegranate with enough pressure to knock the arils into the empty bowl. Continue to firmly hit the pomegranate until all arils are removed.
Result: A great outlet for any built-up aggression, but it did require a lot of force, and took much more whacking than I anticipated. While it was labor intensive, it was mostly successful, but there were still a few arils remaining that I had to scoop out anyway.
Method 2: Cut Into its Natural Segments and ScoopTechnique: Using a very sharp knife, trim off about 1/4-inch from the blossom end and the crown end of the pomegranate, exposing the arils inside. Follow the lines of the interior white pith and the exterior raised ridges to cut through the pomegranate skin, pole to pole, into its natural segments. You should have 5 or 6 segments (depending on the pomegranate). Use a soup spoon and fingers to separate arils from pith and skin into the empty bowl.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezResult: This was definitely a step in the right direction. With the ends of the pomegranate cut off, it was easy to see the natural lines of pith separating the inner segments. But the method was messy and led to more splatter and crushed arils than I cared to deal with.
Method 3 (Winning Method): Cut into Segments and Deseed Under WaterTechnique: Start with Method 2's approach for segmenting the pomegranate. Then submerge the segments in a bowl of water and pry out the seeds there.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezResult: Removing seeds in a bowl of water not only minimized mess, it was easier to separate any remaining loose pith from the seeds. Letting the seeds settle in the bowl of water for a few minutes allowed the white pith to float to the top, while the seeds remained submerged at the bottom of the bowl. All I had to do was use a slotted spoon to scoop out the bulk of the remaining white pith before draining the seeds and blotting them dry on a large plate, where I could also do one final inspection to remove any remaining pith.
Place a large sheet of parchment paper on a cutting board. Working on top of the parchment paper, and using a very sharp knife, trim off about 1/4-inch from the blossom end and the crown end of the pomegranate, exposing the seeds inside; you will see lines of interior white pith stemming from the center to the peel like the spokes of a bicycle, marking the fruit's natural segments.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing a paring knife, cut through the peel of the pomegranate from pole to pole where each line of pith meets the peel, being careful not to slice deeply into the pomegranate (you want to avoid cutting through the seeds as much as possible). Using your fingers, pry pomegranate apart into its natural segments.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFill a large bowl halfway with cold water. Working with 1 segment at a time, submerge segment in water and use fingers to gently separate seeds from outer skin and pith. Once all seeds are removed, discard outer skin, keeping seeds submerged in water (some pith may remain). Repeat with remaining segments.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOnce all seeds have been removed from outer fruit skin, keep submerged under water and use fingers to separate seeds from any remaining pith and from each other. Once separated, let sit in water, untouched, until any remaining white pith separates and floats to the top of the water (seeds will remain on the bottom of the bowl), 3 to 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing a slotted spoon, spider, or fine-mesh strainer, collect and discard any floating pith. Drain seeds through a fine-mesh strainer and transfer to a paper towel-lined large plate or rimmed baking sheet. Gently blot dry with paper towels and discard any remaining white pith from seeds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUse as needed or transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 1 week.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMake Ahead and StoragePomegranate seeds can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week. The arils freeze surprisingly well. Freeze in a single layer on a plastic wrap–lined large plate or sheet tray (this prevents the arils from sticking to the plate and makes it easier to collect edges of wrap and gather arils together) until firm, about 30 minutes, then transfer to an airtight container and freeze for up to 2 months.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikArugula is a versatile green prized for its assertive, peppery bite. It shines in salads when mixed with other strongly flavored greens like mizuna, endive, and radicchio, and is also a fantastic accompaniment in dishes that feature rich proteins, like carpaccio and pan-roasted salmon, where it takes on the role of an herb. Arugula's spicy flavor is also welcome in cooked applications, whether wilted and served as a warm salad, tossed with warm pasta as it finishes cooking, combined with ricotta and stuffed in manicotti, or puréed with stock and aromatics to make a delicious soup. Below we've gathered over a dozen of our favorite arugula recipes, from basic salads to hearty mains.
Fingerling Potato Salad With Chorizo, Onion, and ArugulaSerious Eats / Vicky WasikTender and creamy fingerling potatoes, smoky Spanish chorizo, onion (both pickled and sautéed), and peppery arugula all come together in this easy and hearty potato salad. It's perfect as a side for summer cookouts or as the main event for a simple one-bowl dinner.
Spring Vegetable and Arugula Salad With Labne and CucumbersSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltFor this entrée salad, labne is generously smeared on serving plates and topped with a simple dressed medley of fresh spring produce: peppery arugula, sweet peas, grassy asparagus, green fava beans, crisp snap peas, and broccolini, plus a juicy cucumber, a red onion, and some fresh mozzarella cheese.
Arugula, Sweet Potato, and Walnut Salad With Dashi "Vinaigrette"Serious Eats / Vicky WasikConventional wisdom says that salads should be dressed with vinaigrettes, which, by definition, balance an acid with a fat. Turns out you can break that rule by dropping the acid entirely. In this hearty, satisfying salad, we make a "vinaigrette" with a combination of soy sauce and dashi. Earthy sweet potatoes, bitter arugula, and crushed toasted walnuts are tossed in the dressing for an easy, deeply flavorful dish.
Easy Beef Carpaccio With ArugulaSerious Eats / Qi AiFor this Italian classic, peppery baby arugula is lightly dressed with olive oil, salt, and black pepper, then scattered over paper-thin slices of ultra-fresh raw beef. The dish is finished with a handful of quartered tomatoes and a drizzle of egg yolk-enriched lemon-Dijon sauce. For a spin on this classic that eats more like an entrée, check out this steak carpaccio salad.
Arugula, Salmon, and Leek TartSerious Eats / Sydney OlandFor this tart, arugula is prepared in two ways. Chopped arugula is quickly cooked with leeks and folded into the filling with chunks of salmon. Then to finish, lightly dressed arugula is piled on top of the tart, adding its characteristic bright, bitter flavor to an otherwise rich, creamy dish.
Gemelli with Asparagus, Ricotta, Arugula, and Lemon ZestSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltSautéed asparagus is paired with arugula and ricotta for this creamy, bright pasta dish. The gemelli is cooked using an unorthodox method that yields extra starchy pasta water. When combined with the vegetables and ricotta, the pasta water forms an especially silky sauce that coats the gemelli. For another pasta option, see our recipe that pairs arugula with bucatini, spicy shrimp, and breadcrumbs.
Arugula, Fennel, and Orange SaladSerious Eats / Jennifer SegalSpicy arugula, shaved fennel, and juicy oranges make a simple and elegant autumn salad. Each bite is peppery, tart, and sweet.
French Lentils with Sausage, Wilted Arugula, & Dijon MustardSerious Eats / Max FalkowitzBrown lentils du Puy studded with chunks of sausage—sure, this dish is not much of a looker, but what it lacks in aesthetics it makes up for in flavor. Simmering the lentils with cloves adds a sweet and spicy balance to the peppery arugula and mustard.
Spanakopita (Greek Savory Greens Pie)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikFor a twist on the classic, this version of Greek spanakopita uses an assortment of greens and tender herbs in addition to spinach. Any combination works, but we especially like adding peppery arugula and watercress, which plays against the sweet, vegetal flavors of spinach and chard.
Sourdough Toasts With Tomato, Pesto, and BurrataSerious Eats / Vicky WasikInspired by caprese salad and pan con tomate, these crostini are topped with the concentrated flavor of grated and strained ripe tomatoes. After a quick trip to the broiler, the toasts are topped with creamy burrata and herbal basil-arugula-almond pesto.
Creamy Vegan Saag Paneer (With Tofu)Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltFor this vegan take on saag paneer, browned, marinated cubes of tofu are stirred into a flavorful pot of creamy spiced greens. A mix of spinach and spicy greens like arugula result in a dish with extra flavor.
Classic Italian-American Stuffed Shells With Ricotta and SpinachSerious Eats / Vicky WasikShells plump with ricotta-spinach filling and baked with tomato sauce and mozzarella are one of our go-to comfort food dishes. Replacing a portion of the spinach with arugula makes the filling much more flavorful.
Salmon Bean SaladSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis easy, hearty salad combines moist, tender flakes of cold-start poached salmon with plump cranberry beans and peppery arugula. For another simple entrée salad featuring seafood, check out this salad recipe that pairs arugula with spicy shrimp and avocado.
The Un-Composed (i.e., Best) Niçoise SaladSerious Eats / Vicky WasikA good Niçoise salad should be made like any good salad: fully dressed and tossed. Cutting everything into bite-size pieces and tossing them together with the dressing makes the fullest-flavored, easiest-to-eat salad (way better than the more traditional "composed" style of presentation). Arugula is one of our top choices for this salad, as its peppery bite holds its own against assertive olives, capers, and anchovies.
Winter Greens Salad With Flax Seeds, Shaved Beets, and RadishesSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltAs a salad ingredient, one of the best features of arugula is its availability in major supermarkets in the winter months. For this winter-friendly salad recipe, bitter, spicy greens, sweet beets, savory cheese, and a tart vinaigrette contribute huge, but balanced, flavors.
Hot or Cold Creamy Lettuce SoupSerious Eats / Vicky WasikLettuce isn't just good for salads; it makes shockingly delicious soup, too. From arugula to romaine, Boston to Bibb, oak leaf to cress, set them to simmer and they'll be great. It's flat-out perfect served chilled on a sweltering summer day.
Serious Eats / Debbie WeeCoconut oil has become an indispensable part of the modern cook's repertoire, as it's one of the only commonly available vegetable fats to remain solid at room temperature without the aid of hydrogenation. Coconut oil is available in two forms: virgin and refined. Virgin coconut oil retains some flavor and aroma; refined coconut oil is essentially odorless and tasteless. In addition to being a good vegan substitute for traditional solid fats like butter and lard, refined coconut oil allows citrus flavors to shine through, which makes it Stella Parks' fat of choice for desserts like blueberry-lemon scones and lemon-ginger sandwich cookies. Of course, sometimes coconut flavor is desirable: this coconut cake uses virgin coconut oil in both the cake batter and frosting to achieve a deep, pronounced flavor. Here are fifteen coconut oil recipes that leverage the special properties of this essential ingredient.
Classic Banana BreadSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThe key to making the best-tasting banana bread is using a blend of spices to amplify the banana flavor, along with a few other tricks to keep the crumb moist and tender. Because coconut oil is solid at room temperature, it gives this banana bread a uniquely rich yet buttery crumb.
CannoliSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis recipe for making the best cannoli calls for frying the shells in refined coconut oil. Since the oil is solid at room temperature, the resulting shells have a crisp and buttery texture that never feels greasy or soggy.
Rolled Sugar Cookie CutoutsSerious Eats / Vicky Wasik.These simple, tender sugar cookies are perfect for care packages and holiday gifts alike. Using coconut oil in the cookie dough minimizes browning while baking and keeps them moist for longer than those made with butter.
Triple Coconut CakeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis riff on the Southern classic incorporates coconut in every form, giving the cake an all-natural flavor and super-moist crumb. Virgin coconut oil is used instead of butter in both the cake and frosting, adding extra coconut flavor and aroma.
Homemade Brownie MixSerious Eats / Vicky WasikMake this easy brownie mix to keep on the pantry shelf for fast and fudgy chocolate brownies whenever you like. Refined coconut oil is solid at room temperature, with an extraordinary shelf life that makes it the perfect foundation for a shelf-stable mix.
New-Fashioned SnickerdoodlesSerious Eats / Vicky WasikA blend of butter and coconut oil gives these cookies a unique texture and aromatic richness, all wrapped up in a cinnamon sugar shell.
The Best Homemade Chocolate Dip (a.k.a. Magic Shell)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikCoconut oil casts a spell on melted dark chocolate, allowing it to quickly solidify when poured over ice cream and form a delicious candy shell. Once you've mastered this sorcery with a scoop or two of your favorite ice cream, try your hand at making Klondike bars from scratch, or coating pudding pops with an extra layer of chocolatey goodness.
Potato DoughnutsSerious Eats / Debbie WeeThese pillowy-soft doughnuts start with a dough made with mashed potatoes and brown butter. Once formed, they're fried in refined coconut oil, which yields light, crisp doughnuts with a buttery finish.
Stracciatella GelatoSerious Eats / Vicky WasikStracciatella gelato is such a simple recipe that it demands the best of the best. For her recipe, Stella starts out with a high-quality, single-origin chocolate that's flavorful enough to stand out at cold temperatures, then melts it with coconut oil. Once broken into shards and added to the gelato, each piece of chocolate delivers a satisfying snap before melting on the tongue.
Thick and Fluffy Pancakes From Homemade Pancake MixSerious Eats / Vicky WasikA food processor makes this homemade pancake mix a snap, and thanks to refined coconut oil, it can sit on the shelf for months on end. When you're ready for breakfast, all you need to make light and fluffy pancakes is a splash of milk and an egg—no whipping required! For a homemade mix that yields a thinner flapjack, see Stella's recipe here.
Blueberry-Lemon SconesSerious Eats / Vicky WasikA blend of coconut oil and full-fat coconut milk provides just the right sense of richness in these light, lemony scones. Since there is no lactose at all in these "accidentally vegan" scones, there's nothing to get in the way of the fruit's bright flavor.
Speculoos (Biscoff Cookie Butter)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThis silky-smooth spread is as thick as creamy peanut butter, but packed with the caramelized flavor and aromatic spices of Belgian speculoos. The cookie butter owes its thick and firm consistency to refined coconut oil.
Cookies 'n' Cream CookiesSerious Eats / Vicky WasikWho doesn't want their cookies stuffed with Oreos? For this meta treat, blending butter with coconut oil creates a cookie that's rich, chewy, and mild—the perfect canvas for crunchy Oreo cookie bits.
Crispy Lemon-Ginger Sandwich CookiesSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThese ginger cookies are spicy and zesty, with a refreshingly tart and bright lemon filling. Using refined coconut oil in place of butter allows the citrus to shine through, giving the filling an especially zippy flavor.
Vegan Cauliflower-Creamed SpinachSerious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltIn this vegan take on the comfort food classic, puréed cauliflower forms a creamy base to bind the spinach. Coconut oil, with its high saturated fat content, produces a richer-tasting result than other types of vegetable oil.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonYou planned a date night picnic. You picked out the perfect outfit, you packed matching place settings for two, and then you lugged out an old portable grill from the trunk that gets grease stains on your shirt. For moments where the details count (or if you just have limited outdoor or storage space—hello apartment living), the Everdure CUBE Portable Charcoal Grill is ready to sear off your meats—and look cute doing it, to boot.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreTo buy: Everdure CUBE Portable Charcoal Grill was $200, now $121 at amazon.com.
Why It Won Our ReviewWhen we tested portable charcoal grills, the Everdure CUBE had a lot going for it. Its coated steel body is lightweight and easy to clean, and it also comes in five different colors: matte black, graphite, khaki, orange, and stone. The bamboo lid doubles as a cutting board in a pinch, and a storage tray underneath helps transport your food to your picnic blanket. Though its cooking surface is on the smaller side, it’s got room to cook two steaks, four burgers, or a handful of sausages—perfect for two people. In our tests, it seared off brats and burgers nicely and left deep grill marks on corn during our testing, matching its performance to its aesthetics. And at around the size of a small drinks cooler, the CUBE is easy to bring to the beach or a park. Now that it’s almost 40% off, you can snag this sale just in time for Labor Day and all the outdoor cooking it entails.
Good to Know Materials: Steel, bamboo * Weight: 15.43 pounds * Cooking area: 103.9 square inches * Dimensions: 9.1 x 16.7 x 13.7 inches * Features:* Storage tray, bamboo cutting board, stay-cool handles
FAQsWhat kind of charcoal do you use with the Everdure CUBE?The Everdure CUBE can use either lump charcoal or charcoal briquettes. Lump charcoal tends to burn hotter than briquettes, however, so keep that in mind when planning which type of charcoal to buy.
How much charcoal can the Everdure CUBE hold? The Everdure CUBE can hold around a pound of lump charcoal, which rests on its raised charcoal grate for airflow, and a black enamel ash tray for easy cleanup. Since it’s a smaller grill, it's recommended to not overload it with charcoal, which can quickly burn the food you’re trying to cook and potentially damage the grill’s interior.
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Everything you need to know about selecting the best peaches and bringing them to ultimate ripeness at home.
This cucumber water recipe uses a simple and reliable technique that works well with a range of refreshing flavor combinations.
With a jammy filling of vanilla-scented peaches beneath a crunchy topping of whole-wheat flour, oats, and toasted pecans, this peach crisp tastes like the best of summer.
Prime Day is in full swing, but there are some great discounts at other retailers, like Williams Sonoma.
We tested 10 loaf pans with three different bread recipes to see which ones browned evenly, baked tall and neat loaves, and were easy to clean.
If you want to go the extra mile and make unagi sauce at home, the process can be quite simple. In the spirit of a more “traditional” method, this recipe utilizes a base of dashi, which adds umami and depth to an otherwise heavy-handed sauce.
For the most refreshing and flavorful strawberry lemonade, macerate your fruit and lemon zest.
We used the extra-large smoker to cook a variety of meats, evaluating its performance, usability, and app design.
Perfectly roasted spaghetti squash is crisp-tender with a neutral flavor that is great simply as is or tossed with your favorite sauce. The secret to success is in our unusual cutting method.
This shredded pork sauce is rich and herbaceous, and pairs perfectly with thick, fresh pappardelle noodles.
This joyously vibrant corn dip is loaded with sweet, fresh, briny, and herbal flavors, and unlike many others, it doesn't seize up and turn to rubber as it cools.
We broke down the differences between centrifugal and masticating juicers and gave tested recommendations for each.
For the longest-lasting, freshest strawberries, one cleaning and storage method worked better than all the rest.
Here’s why we seriously advise against bamboo cutting boards—and what to buy instead (with tested recommendations).
After packing 12 different lunch boxes, we found which ones could hold up to daily meals on the go and wear-and-tear.
Made by whisking instant coffee, sugar, and hot water together until the mixture resembles a fluffy meringue, watching dalgona coffee come together feels like magic. Here’s the science behind the foam.
Weber's gas and charcoal grills consistently rank high in our reviews, thanks to their efficiency, ease of use, approachable price point, and generous warranties.
A winning combination of salt cod, thyme, Scotch bonnet pepper, and scallion makes these crisp, savory fritters irresistible.
Tender, well-marbled steak, sautéed onions, and melty provolone cheese served in a soft but sturdy hoagie roll define this classic Philly sandwich.
Father's Day isn't all about grilled meats, but it mostly is! We threw in some dessert, too.
We tested tea kettles across several categories (including stovetop, electric, and gooseneck models) and found favorites at a variety of price points.
We tested 21 microwave ovens to find the best ones for all your cooking, popcorn, and reheated leftover needs.
A Middle Eastern staple, this strained and lightly salted yogurt is often served at breakfast or as a snack drizzled with olive oil, sprinkled with za’atar, and scooped up with pita bread.
We tested six popcorn makers to see which ones popped the best-tasting popcorn, had the fewest unpopped kernels, and were easy to set up and clean.
The secret to this bracingly spicy, sweet, tart, salty, icy, and refreshing Mexican drink is to use the most flavorful mango and chamoy possible. That means buying frozen or canned mango pulp and making the chamoy from scratch.
We compiled a list of our favorite OXO gear from our equipment reviews, including coffee makers, bench scrapers, and plastic cutting boards.
This bold salty-sweet-sour-spicy Mexican sauce has roots in Asia, and is delicious on fresh raw fruit or paired with Tajín in an icy chamoyada or mangonada. Making it at home is easy: just simmer, blend, and then adjust to taste and for consistency.
Dry-brined in a mixture of salt and baking soda then tossed in a balanced spice blend that packs subtle heat, this Cajun shrimp is tender, juicy, and packed full of flavor.
It adds subtle, nuanced smoke to your cocktails (or food) and features an adjustable fan and a sturdy base.
We compiled a list of our favorite espresso blends from well-known roasters like Intelligentsia and Counter Culture, along with smaller companies.
We tested nine soft coolers, evaluating their durability, cold retention, and capacity, as well as how easy they were to carry.
When done properly, velveting can render a relatively lean cut of meat moist and tender—even after extended steaming.
Pleasantly springy and fragrant with soy sauce, oyster sauce, and Shaoxing wine, Chinese meatloaf is delicious served on its own or atop Cantonese claypot rice.
This comforting meal of rice steamed and crisped within a Cantonese clay pot is a favorite in Hong Kong, where it’s served with an assortment of savory toppings and a seasoned soy sauce.
A staple of dive bars around the world, the pickleback is a simple shot combo that sees whiskey (these days typically Jameson) followed immediately by pickle brine. It's a salty, vinegary, palate cleansing combo invented at the Bushwick Country Club and we spoke with the folks who were there when it was invented.
Serious Eats / Donna CurrieCanning is the perfect way to preserve the bounty of the growing season, whether from a home garden or the farmers market. While many foods can be preserved by freezing, that food is at risk from, say, a power outage or eventual freezer burn. Home canned goods can last for at least a year before quality begins to degrade (they should be used within two). And they’re convenient to have on hand since they don’t need to be thawed—just heat and eat.
While water bath canning is popular for pickles and other acidic foods, pressure canning opens up a whole new world of things that can be preserved, including meats. It does, however, have some special requirements—including the necessary gear.
The Basic Gear You’ll Need for Pressure CanningWhile pressure canning may seem intimidating, it’s actually not that complicated. And, aside from a pressure canner, the equipment is inexpensive and easy to find. Many grocery stores even carry the essentials, and more can be found online.
A Pressure CannerWe tested pressure canners, and the All American canner came out on top. It comes in a wide variety of sizes, perfect for any home canner (though our suggestion is the 10.5-quart). It features both a dial and a weighted gauge, for checking pressure progress. Of course, it’s also expensive, which is why we also recommend the one from Presto. It’s 16 quarts and we suggest opting for the model with a weighted gauge.
Serious Eats / Donna CurrieCanning JarsJars are required, of course, and they must be jars that are designed for canning. When purchasing new jars, lids and rings are usually included. Ball jars are the most common and the ones we consider reliable. Jars come in a variety of sizes and with regular or wide-mouth openings. It’s important to check the recipe to make sure the jars are the correct size, for safe canning.
Extra Lids or Lids with RingsWhile canning rings can be re-used as long as they’re not bent or rusted, the lids are considered a one-use item. That’s why we recommend having plenty of extra lids, along with extra bands, in case your harvest is larger than expected and your lid supply runs low.
Serious Eats / Donna CurrieReusable Lids, If You So ChooseWhile Ball lids are not reusable, the Tattler company makes reusable lids. With these, some users find the failure rate is higher, but the fact that they’re reusable makes them appealing to many canners.
A Canning Kit with Lotsa BasicsCanning kits are available that include basic tools, like a funnel, jar lifter, lid lifter, and a tool for measuring headspace and de-bubbling the jars. Some kits have things like jar openers or tongs that can be useful for removing rings from hot water, but aren’t essential. A kit is a good way to get started, before upgrading to individual pieces that have extra features or are more substantial.
Nice-to-Have Pressure Canning ItemsA Canning FunnelWhile canning kits include the basics, pieces can be purchased individually, sometimes with added benefits. The Prepworks canning funnel fits into canning jars just like others, but it also has a shroud that covers the jar threads, keeping them extra-clean when filling. It also has measurements for headspace, although that should be double-checked once the jar has been de-bubbled. Some cooks might also prefer a collapsible funnel for more compact storage.
A De-Bubbling and Measuring ToolThe de-bubbling and measuring tool is a simple piece of plastic that is slid along the inside of the jar to remove clinging bubbles so liquid can be added to the correct level. The measuring end has notches that record exactly how much space is in the jar above the liquid. De-bubblers are often sold along with lid lifters, or in multiples (this can be handy when several people are working together on a canning project).
A Lid LifterThe lid lifter is designed for removing hot canning lids and rings from the boiling water used to sterilize them. They can be a simple magnet on a stick, but the Prepworks lifter has a ring on the end, making it a bit easier to hold.
A Jar LifterA jar-lifting tool helps get hot jars out of the canner. The lifting tool looks somewhat like very large tongs, but the grasping ends are shaped to fit around the jar’s neck, so the jars can be safely lifted out of the hot water without breaking the seals or tipping them. We're including this in this section, as many canning kits will include a jar lifter. For an upgrade, the Ball Secure-Grip provides a firm hold on jars but may be pricey for casual canners. We also like Norpro Jar Lifter.
Serious Eats / Donna CurrieA StockpotOne thing that shouldn’t be ignored is how the food will be cooked before canning. Unless it’s just a small batch of garden vegetables, it’s wise to have a sufficiently large stockpot to hold everything. A 16-quart pot has plenty of space for large batches (and can come in handy for lots of other kitchen tasks, like stock and boiling corn or lobster).
Other Helpful Canning InformationSerious Eats / Donna CurrieThe greatest risk when canning foods at home is botulism. Unlike mold that can be seen, or spoilage that your nose will alert you to, botulism is invisible. It has no scent or taste and can be deadly. Because of that, it’s important to follow canning guides precisely, from the choice of jars to proper storage after canning.
The gold standard for canning information is the National Center for Home Food Preservation, usually referred to as the NCHFP. Anything found on the NCHFP website (nchfp.uga.edu) is researched and tested, from methods to recipes. Ball, the company that has been making canning jars since 1884, is also a great source for information and recipes (ballmasonjars.com). Besides the website, Ball publishes canning books regularly, with new recipes and updated safety information. The US Department of Agriculture also has canning information.
While it seems tempting to browse through old canning books, our knowledge about pathogens and safe canning practices has progressed rapidly, making old recipes less reliable.
FAQsHow do you sterilize canning jars?This is one of the techniques that has changed over time, so it’s important to read current instructions and follow them. Depending on the type of canning, it may be sufficient to wash the jars in the dishwasher. For hot-pack canning, jars are typically boiled in the canner then removed one-by-one for filling. Lid technology has changed as well. Where boiling was required in the past, some lids no longer require it. Canning jars should not be heated or sterilized in the oven.
What is canning salt?Canning salt is, well, simply salt. It does not include anti-caking ingredients or iodine, which can make the liquid cloudy or darken the food (neither of which you want for your vibrant canned goods). While canning salt can certainly be sprinkled on your avocado toast, it’s best to avoid using other salts in canning.
Can you reuse canning lids?Aside from Tattler lids, canning lids should not be reused for canning. The sealing material on the lid gets soft when hot and harder when cooled, conforming to the jar—so it’s not made to fit onto another jar. Also, prying the lid off a jar will likely warp it, so it won't lie flat on the next jar and would result in a bad seal if reused. If they’re not rusted or damaged, though, the lids can be used for dry storage, like with cereal or rice. The rings can be re-used for canning as long as they aren’t rusty or bent.
Should lids be left on canned foods?About 24 hours after canning, the rings should be removed, and the lids should be inspected to make sure they have popped down in the center. Then, the seal should be tested by lifting the jar by the lid or pulling up gently along the edges. If it doesn’t hold, the food should be refrigerated and used quickly or it can be re-canned with a new lid. After verifying the seal, the jars should be washed and dried and then stored in a cool, dry place. The lids can be loosely replaced, but they should not be tightened, as that can break the seal.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayCutting boards are tricky to shop for. There's such a wide variance in price, material, and size! Because while a cheap miniature plastic cutting board may be sufficient for slicing limes, it’s not ideal for prepping a large amount of food, or using it with regularity. The best cutting boards are large, with big work surfaces so you have plenty of room to chop and get organized.
Although there are benefits to buying a plastic cutting board, we generally recommend wooden cutting boards due to their durability, longevity, and ease on knives (hard plastic can quickly dull a blade). That said, plastic is less expensive and easier to maintain.
To help you decide what’s right for you, we’ll break down the factors that’ll go into your decision process. We’ll also include which cutting boards to buy, based on our wooden, plastic, and carving board reviews.
The Winners, at a Glance The Best High-End Wooden Cutting Board: The BoardSmith Maple End Grain Cutting Board * The Best Budget-Friendly Wooden Cutting Board: Ironwood Acacia End Grain Cutting Board * The Best Budget-Friendly Plastic Cutting Board: OXO 2-Piece Cutting Board Set * The Best High-End Plastic Cutting Board: Hayate Yoshihiro Cutting Board * The Best Carving Board:* The BoardSmith Maple End Grain Cutting Board (with an added juice well)
Things to ConsiderWooden vs. Plastic Cutting BoardsSerious Eats / Vicky WasikNeither wood nor plastic cutting boards are unequivocally “better.” Wooden board enthusiasts will praise their aesthetics, relative gentleness on knives, and natural material. Fans of plastic boards can claim easier maintenance and care, as well as a (usually) lower price point. But we think there’s value in having both on hand. Let’s take a look at where wood and plastic boards differ, excel, and struggle.
- Which is more sanitary?: Conventional wisdom tells us that plastic is a more sanitary option than wood when it comes to cutting boards. This is a partial truth: while plastic is undeniably easier to sanitize, it can be an equal or even more inviting environment for harmful bacteria to linger. When plastic boards collect cuts and gashes due to repeated knife use, those grooves are an ideal place for bacteria to grow. Conversely, as we discussed in our review of wooden boards, the material’s porous nature isn’t necessarily a bad thing: the fiber network in the wood can trap bacteria and hold it under the surface until it dies.
- Cleaning: Plastic is inarguably easier to clean and care for than wood. You can leave a plastic board in a sink full of dishes, soak it, and use cleaning agents on it. Even if bacteria festers, you can bleach a plastic board or pop it in the dishwasher. Wooden boards must be hand-washed, dried immediately, and treated with mineral oil to avoid warping and cracking.
Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik Knife Use: Every time you use a knife, you dull the blade. But the surface you’re cutting on will either expedite or slow that process. Different types of wood have different levels of porousness. Maple and walnut are good options, because they’re not too dense (a quality which is hard on knives), but not so soft that they immediately scratch. They are pricier than acacia, teak, and bamboo, but those materials can be unpredictably hard, and may result in a knife blade that dulls more quickly (we especially don’t recommend bamboo). Plastic also has varying levels of hardness, and can similarly affect a knife’s blade. In our review of plastic cutting boards, we noted that the grip of a plastic cutting board matters, as well. A too-slippery surface can be annoying—and dangerous—to use. * Longevity:* Over time, the gashes and scratches in plastic boards will render them unusable. At that point, they must be thrown away. Wooden boards, on the other hand, will last indefinitely. Although they too will show signs of wear, they can be sanded down to reveal a fresh, new surface. (You shouldn’t have to do this more than once a year, even with heavy use. Be sure to apply a layer of oil after sanding and wiping clean).
SizeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikA cutting board is more than just a place to chop. We consider them to be extensions of our work surface, and favor large boards that approximate a workbench or extra-large chopping block. Look for boards that measure at minimum 12 by 18 inches to boost their efficiency. We also prefer boards with thick profiles: at least an inch and a half. This is less about making a visual statement—although the argument can be made that big, chunky boards double as decor when left on the counter. Rather, the thicker boards are more resistant to warping over time.
PriceWooden cutting boards are typically more expensive than plastic cutting boards, although they are longer-lasting and don’t need to be replaced…unless they are thrown in the dishwasher, or become warped or cracked. But the cost varies widely among wooden boards. It’s worth noting that many of us have used wooden boards from The Boardsmith at home for years and they’ve never shown signs of warping or cracking, but they also cost more than $300 (our favorite plastic boards, from OXO, are $24 for two).
What we liked: High-quality end-grain cutting boards cost more than well-made edge-grain cutting boards. We’ve got recommendations for both varieties. Our tests revealed the Maple End Grain Cutting Board from The Boardsmith to truly top. This board is meticulously made, with no visual or structural imperfections. It’s also a generous two inches thick and we can tell you, first-hand, that it lasts for years and years with regular use (and of course, proper maintenance). For most folks, we'd recommend going with the 16- by 22-inch size.
(We also liked Brooklyn Butcher Blocks’ End Grain Maple Cutting Board. For a slightly more affordable option, we recommend the Maple Long-Grain Cutting Board, also from Brooklyn Butcher Blocks.)
What we didn't like: Besides the price being prohibitive, there's nothing we didn't like about this board. It's worth the investment.
Price at time of publish: $325.
Key Specs Weight: 18 to 19 pounds (for the 16- x 22-inch board) * Customizations available: Feet; juice groove; finger grooves; sizing * Wood type:* Maple
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWhat we liked: This end-grain board from Ironwood Gourmet is more affordable, because it’s made from cheaper acacia wood. Although acacia is harder than maple, our high-end pick, it is very durable and resistant to warping and cracking. This board is also well under $100, making an extremely solid budget-friendly recommendation.
What we didn't like: It comes with non-slip feet, which makes one side of the board unusable.
Price at time of publish: $66.
Key Specs Weight: 7.2 pounds * Customizations available: None * Wood type:* Acacia
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWhat we liked: If you want a plastic board that can be knocked around, used heavily, and is available in a variety of sizes, you simply cannot beat OXO’s 2-Piece Cutting Board Set. The boards are thin enough to tuck into just about any drawer or cupboard when not in use, but they’re far from flimsy. We particularly liked the rubber bumpers on two edges of the board, which keep it from slipping around during use. Unlike grippy feet, the bumpers allow for the board to be flipped over and used on both sides.
What we didn't like: Nothing—really! These boards are staples in our test kitchen and in homes.
Price at time of publish: $24.
Key Specs Weight: 2.03 pounds * Materials: Plastic with rubber trim * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWhat we liked: The Hayate Yoshihiro Cutting Board will set you back $115, but it’s worth the unusually-steep-for-plastic price tag. It’s soft, and responds to knife blades similarly to wood boards and really for the kind of cook that likes to invest in their gear and take care of it. As we said in our review, "Designed to work with razor-sharp Japanese knives and the more gentle pulling motion chefs tend to use in Japan, the Hi-Soft board is only for folks who think they have the knives and knife skills to treat it with care." We like that it's available in a ton of (read: six) sizes, too.
What we didn't like: For some, this board may just be too expensive.
Price at time of publish: $115.
Key Specs Weight: 4.75 pounds * Materials: Polyvinyl acetate * Care instructions:* Hand-wash
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWhat we liked; Carving boards have a trench around the edge to collect juice as meat is sliced. Some include additional handy features like raised grips in the center to keep meat from slipping as it's handled. In our review of the best carving boards, the Maple End Grain Cutting Board from The Boardsmith (with an added juice well!) excelled at every task, and it's customizable. You can add finger grooves, feet, and select a size. If you go sans feet, the board's reversible, too. And you're not imagining it: this is our favorite wooden cutting board—just with an added juice well. When something works, it works—ya know? (Note: If you’re hoping to buy a carving board on a budget, we recommend the Extra Large Walnut Carving Board from Virginia Boys.)
What we didn't like: Besides its heavy weight (and steep pricetag) there's really not much to dislike about this board.
Price at time of publish: $355.
Key Specs Weight: 18 pounds * Customizations available: Feet; juice groove; finger grooves; sizing * Wood type:* Maple
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayFAQsHow do you clean a cutting board? What material is your cutting board made from? Plastic cutting boards can be washed in hot, soapy water, rinsed clean, and air-dried. Most plastic boards can be cleaned in the dishwasher, too. A wooden cutting board requires a little extra care, but it’s not as fussy to wash as you may think. Simply suds up the board with a sponge or bristle brush, rinse clean, then dry excess water with a towel. Dry it upright, or sitting on a cooling rack to aid in air flow and quick drying—this will prevent cracking and warping over time.
How do you oil a cutting board? Oiling your wooden cutting board is key for longevity; it conditions the wood, which prevents cracks and splits. It also provides a protective sealant over the surface, which impedes bacterial growth. Use food-grade mineral oil (not a perishable oil, like olive oil), and begin by pouring a generous layer over the top. Rub it in with a towel—it’s good to dedicate a specific towel for this purpose—and let the oil sink into the board for a few minutes. This may be repeated on all sides of the cutting board, and should be done whenever the board looks dry or thirsty. That could be as often as monthly, or as infrequently as a handful of times a year.
Should you buy a bamboo cutting board?We don’t recommend buying a bamboo cutting board. Although they are often less expensive than maple or walnut boards, bamboo is hard on knives. You’ll find yourself needing to sharpen your blades more often if you chop and slice on bamboo.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubInstant coffee has a bad reputation–and not undeservedly. Born out of convenience, instant coffee has been disappointing palates since the early 1900s. Why? Well, to start, for a long time, the only roasting companies that offered instant coffee were the largest ones, which have poor reputations for fair labor practices and underwhelming coffee quality. In order to make instant coffee even moreprofitable, these companies extracted everything from the roasted coffee during brewing—including the bitter, dry, and astringent flavors good brewing practices avoid. Finally, this over-extracted brewed coffee was rapidly freeze-dried, which gave it a stale flavor.
These days, specialty coffee companies approach instant coffee differently. Instead of over-extracting the ground coffee, they brew to highlight the fruit acids, sugars, and caramelized sugars that make coffee complex and sweet. The freeze-drying is then done slowly to better preserve flavors. And because instant coffee has already been brewed before being freeze-dried, it can dissolve in cold water just as easily as hot water, making it convenient for iced preparations, as well as hotel mornings, hiking trips, airplanes, and even afternoon coffee breaks.
In order to find out which of these new-school instant coffees tastes the best, we tried 17 options from various producers.
The Winners, at a GlanceWell-balanced and sweet, Intelligentsia’s House Blend had a clean finish with flavors reminiscent of caramel, brown sugar, and pear. It’s a well-rounded option for most coffee drinkers.
Full-bodied and round, Creamery was the most balanced blend we tasted with flavors that reminded us of milk chocolate, caramel, and red apple. We particularly liked this blend when we added milk.
Bright and fruity but still balanced, we liked how much this option tasted like fresh brewed coffee. Think: brown sugar and tangerine, with a lighter body.
A lighter blend, Time & Temperature had bright flavors that tasted like honey, berries, and tropical fruit. It was also extremely refreshing as an iced coffee.
Light and silky, Ethiopia Agaro from Swift tasted like black cherry and fruit salad, and had a floral, orange blossom note—perfect for people who love light roasts and delicate flavors.
Black Cat tasted great as an instant espresso shot with a lot of dark chocolate and red apple. It translated really well to an iced latte too, tasting sweet, caramelly, and well-balanced.
For decaf drinkers, we thought Swift’s Decaf Colombia had a velvety body and nice fruit notes, like red grape and cherry. It also had a clean finish and was well-balanced.
The TestsSerious Eats / Jesse Raub Double-Blind Taste Test, Part One: We assigned each coffee a number, wrote that number on the bottom of a glass, shuffled them all, and then assigned each glass a number. We added eight ounces of hot water to each glass, stirred to mix, and then let them cool until 120ºF before tasting and noting each coffee’s sweetness, body, aftertaste, balance, and flavor. * Double-Blind Taste Test, Part Two: We then sent the coffees from round one to a wider panel of Serious Eats staffers to conduct their own double-blind taste test, and factored everyone’s results to name winners in each category. * Espresso Preparation Test (Espresso Blends-Only):* We brewed each instant espresso according to its instructions and tasted it on its own for sweetness, body, aftertaste, balance, and flavor. We then prepared an iced latte with each instant espresso and noted its flavor and how well it dissolved into cold milk.
What We LearnedThere Were a Lot of Good Instant Coffees, But Very Few Processors Most of the instant coffee we tested was processed by Swift Coffee.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWe were pleasantly surprised by the number of instant coffees we thought were tasty, but even more shocked that Swift Coffee processed nine of the 17 instant coffees we tasted. Swift operates as an instant coffee processor that develops instant versions for other coffee roasters, but they recently launched their own in-house brand of instant coffee as well. While Black & White Coffee Roasters and Bindle Coffee Roasters do their own freeze-drying (you can even watch a video about Black & White’s process), larger specialty coffee roasters like Intelligentsia rely on Swift to transform their coffee into powder. In fact, all six of our favorite instant coffees (including options from Ruby Coffee Roasters, Tandem Coffee Roasters, and Swift’s own in-house brand) were processed by Swift. Coffees like Chamberlain Coffee Wildcat Instant Sticks and Waka Instant Coffee Colombia fared poorly in our taste tests and didn’t list a processor, but it’s not clear if their rough flavors come from the coffee itself or its processing.
Even High-End Instant Coffee Had a Long Shelf LifeMost of the instant coffees we tested had a shelf life of over a year.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubBecause instant coffee is already brewed, it has a much longer shelf life than your standard bag of coffee. Freshly roasted coffee is usually best within the first two weeks of roasting (which you can read more about here), but even high-end instant coffee, like Ruby’s Creamery Blend, has a best-by date of January 2025. While we hope it doesn’t take you two years to get through five packets, it’s good knowing that you can keep a box or two around for future travel plans or emergencies without worrying about it going stale.
The Packets Were Different Sizes, and Varied by BrandThough packets contained between three to five grams of instant coffee crystals, most suggested using a standard eight ounces of water. There wasn’t a distinct difference in brew strength during our taste tests, which suggests that the coffees themselves were brewed at different concentrations before freeze-drying. Brands like Joe Coffee The Daily Instant Coffee and Verve Coffee Roasters Street Level Instant Coffee that use Swift as their processor recommend five grams of instant coffee for eight to 10 ounces of water, while Swift’s own in-house label suggests 10 ounces of water for its 4.5-gram packets. It’s hard to know why these recipes vary, but it’s safe to say that every packet is a single serving.
Every Packet Dissolved Quickly in WaterAdding instant espresso to cold milk to make an iced latte required more stirring to get it to dissolve.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe number one requirement for any instant coffee is that it dissolves quickly in hot or cold water, and every option we tested passed with flying colors. However, making instant espresso did require a bit more stirring with only one-and-a-half ounces of water (compared to the eight ounces we used for brewed coffee), and we also had to stir a bit more to get the instant espresso powder to dissolve in cold milk.
Flavor Quality Was All Over the MapWhile most instant coffees we tried were great, some options were just unpalatable.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhile most instant coffees we tasted were pleasantly drinkable with at least some sweetness, there were also a few stinkers in the bunch. Starbucks Via Blonde Roast Veranda Blend was flat and lacked complexity, but Chamberlain Coffee Wildcat Instant Sticks and Waka Instant Coffee Colombia were downright terrible. It was a disappointing result since those were the lowest-cost options we tasted, but it does show that not all instant coffee is passable.
The Criteria: What to Look for in an Instant CoffeeSerious Eats / Jesse RaubGreat instant coffee should dissolve quickly, have a long shelf life, and taste sweet and balanced. There are a lot of great styles of instant coffee, so whether you prefer brighter coffees, sweeter coffees, or full-bodied coffees, you’ll be able to find one you like.
What we liked: Intelligentsia’s House Blend was a well-rounded coffee. It was sweet, balanced, and had flavors that reminded us of brown sugar, caramel, and pear. It was a top pick in our taste tests.
What we didn’t like: Some people noted it had a slightly drier finish than other coffees we tasted.
Price at time of publish: $12.
Key Specs Number of packets per box: 5 * Amount per packet: 4.5 grams * Best by date listed: Yes * Roast level: Medium * Coffee style: Blend * Instant processor:* Swift Coffee
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhat we liked: Ruby’s Creamery was another favorite in our blind taste tests. It was described as full-bodied, balanced, and with sweet flavors like milk chocolate, caramel, and red apple. Since it had deeper, rich flavors, it held up well to the addition of milk.
What we didn’t like: Though it was well-balanced and clean, some people thought the flavors weren’t super exciting.
Price at time of publish: $15.
Key Specs Number of packets per box: 6 * Amount per packet: 5 grams * Best by date listed: Yes * Roast level: Medium * Coffee style: Blend * Instant processor:* Swift Coffee
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhat we liked: Street Level scored well amongst all the tasters with a fruit-forward flavor profile that tasted like grape, tangerine, and brown sugar without being too bright or tart. It had a lighter body, and people also liked how much it tasted like fresh-brewed coffee.
What we didn’t like: It was a little too fruit-forward for some tasters, and others wished it had more body.
Price at time of publish: $15.
Key Specs Number of packets per box: 6 * Amount per packet: 5 grams * Best by date listed: Yes * Roast level: Medium-Light * Coffee style: Blend * Instant processor:* Swift Coffee
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhat we liked: Bright, fruity, and light-bodied, Time & Temperature was a favorite amongst tasters who liked light-roasted coffees. It had notes of honey, berries, and tropical fruit, and it was refreshing as an iced coffee.
What we didn’t like: Its fruitiness might be off-putting to some who are looking for bigger, rounder flavors.
Price at time of publish: $15.
Key Specs Number of packets per box: 6 * Amount per packet: 5 grams * Best by date listed: No * Roast level: Medium-light * Coffee style: Blend * Instant processor:* Swift Coffee
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhat we liked: For people who love complex, dynamic, and delicate flavors, Swift’s Ethiopia Agaro was bright, fruity, floral, and sweet. We thought it tasted like black cherry and tropical fruits, and enjoyed how silky and light the body was.
What we didn’t like: Its fruity and floral flavor profile was off-putting to some, and its lighter body didn’t pair well with milk.
Price at time of publish: $15.
Key Specs Number of packets per box: 6 * Amount per packet: 4.5 grams * Best by date listed: Yes * Roast level: Medium-light * Coffee style: Single origin * Instant processor:* Swift Coffee (in-house)
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhat we liked: As an instant espresso shot, Black Cat tasted like cherries and dark chocolate with a syrupy body. In an iced latte, it was caramelly and sweet and paired nicely with milk. It was overall a very nice instant espresso option and ideal for people who like milk-based coffee drinks but don’t want to learn how to make espresso at home.
What we didn’t like: There was a lingering tartness when tasting it on its own, but some people enjoyed that.
Price at time of publish: $12.
Key Specs Number of packets per box: 5 * Amount per packet: 4.5 grams * Best by date listed: Yes * Roast level: Medium-dark * Coffee style: Espresso blend * Instant processor:* Swift Coffee
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhat we liked: For people who like the idea of a quick afternoon pick-me-up without the pick-me-up, Swift’s instant decaf was a sweet well-rounded option with some red grape and cherry flavors.
What we didn’t like: You could taste a slightly stale decaf flavor that was off-putting.
Price at time of publish: $12.
Key Specs Number of packets per box: 6 * Amount per packet: 4.5 grams * Best by date listed: Yes * Roast level: Medium * Coffee style: Decaf single origin * Instant processor:* Swift Coffee (in-house)
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe CompetitionAlso Good* Black & White Jorge Raul Rivera Honey: We really, really liked this bright and fruity offering from Black & White, but Black & White doesn't have a consistent instant coffee lineup. They do all of their freeze-drying in-house, which lets them do limited runs of their single-origin offerings (and makes it harder for us to recommend specific ones before they sell out). We suggest checking out their rotating lineup if you like brighter and lighter coffees. * Swift Coffee Mainstay Blend Instant Coffee: We enjoyed the red grape and caramel flavors of this blend and thought it was well-balanced with a clean finish. * Bindle Coffee Space Coffee Sidekick Espresso: As an espresso, it was bright and sweet. In an iced latte, it tasted like honey and graham crackers. We thought it was a nice instant espresso, though it might be too light-bodied for some. * Blue Bottle Craft Instant Espresso: On its own, this coffee was a little roasty and bitter. In an iced latte, it tasted like dark chocolate milk and was overall pleasant. We wouldn’t recommend this instant espresso on its own, but if you like dark roasts and milk-based drinks, this could be a great option.
Not Recommended* Starbucks Via Blonde Roast Veranda Blend: Overall this coffee was flat and didn’t show the dynamic qualities of our winners. * Bindle Coffee Space Coffee Colombia: We thought this coffee tasted a little grassy and hollow and lacked sweetness. * Joe Coffee The Daily Instant Coffee: This coffee was a bit acrid, and we wanted more sweetness out of it. * Chamberlain Coffee Wildcat Instant Sticks: We thought this coffee tasted like hot rubber and legumes, and was harsh, thin, bitter, and had a lingering unpleasant aftertaste. * Waka Instant Coffee Colombia: This coffee was extraordinarily bitter and tasted like burnt wood. It lacked sweetness altogether and tasted hollow and dry.
FAQsWhat’s the difference between instant coffee and regular coffee?Instant coffee is coffee that’s been brewed and freeze-dried into a powder. Because it has already been brewed, it can dissolve in both hot water and cold water and be ready to drink in seconds. Regular coffee needs to be ground and brewed with hot water in order to extract the flavors.
Why does instant coffee taste worse than regular brewed coffee?Instant coffee is a coffee that’s been brewed and then freeze dried into a powder. Because it’s already been brewed, there’s always a slight chance that some stale flavors can creep in. Traditional instant coffee, however, is usually made from low-grade roasted coffee that’s been over-extracted and freeze dried too quickly. This can lead to harsh flavors across the board.
What’s different about specialty instant coffee?High-end instant coffee is made from specialty coffee beans that are brewed to exact ratios and then slowly freeze-dried to preserve flavor. It tastes better than traditional instant coffee because it starts with higher quality roasted coffee, is brewed to a better standard, and is freeze-dried slowly to preserve flavors.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreAlmost everything is better deep-fried, but what’s not so great is splatter or burnt bits instead of an evenly golden-brown crunch. Enter the electric deep fryer: these appliances feature built-in heating elements to keep oil at stable temperatures, and they also keep oil contained. The downside: they're often difficult to clean (whomp, whomp). However, during our review of electric deep fryers, the All-Clad 3.5-Quart Deep Fryer stood out, not only because it fried well, but also because it featured a built-in filter, drain, and oil storage box for easy cleanup.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreTo buy: All-Clad 3.5-Quart Deep Fryer was $210 now $160 at amazon.com
Why It Won Our ReviewWhile the finished, fried results were important during our testing of deep fryers, another big differentiator between the winners and losers was how easy the appliances were to clean afterward. While some models had a pour spout near the bottom, the All-Clad has a built-in filter that automatically separated the frying oil from any leftover bits of food, draining it into a plastic box at the bottom of the unit. The next time you wanted to fry up falafel or chicken wings, the cooking oil was right there, ready to add back to the cooking chamber. The All-Clad’s controls were also simple and straightforward to use. It even had a lid with a see-through window to protect you (and your countertop) from splatter, while allowing you to still keep an eye on your fried goods. It’s also a plain great deep fryer—fries were golden brown, chicken wings were perfectly crispy, and fried pickles had amazing crunch.
Good to Know: Parts: Frying basket; lid; control unit with heating element; removable oil container with built-in filter; removable oil box * Temperature settings: 300°F to 385°F * Cord length: 25 inches * Dimensions: 18.2 inches long x 13.7 inches wide x 14.7 inches high * Weight: 16.5 lbs * Wattage: 1500 * Oil capacity: 3.5 liters * Care instructions:* Basket, container, lid, and oil box are dishwasher-safe; unit is self-filtering and self-draining; turn knob to “Automatic Oil Filtration” setting and allow 2 hours to drain; turn knob to “Oil Box” to remove oil box for draining
FAQsAre deep fryers worth it?While you can use a Dutch oven to deep fry, an electric deep fryer is more consistent and quicker. Since it has built-in temperature controls, you’re able to pre-set your desired frying temperature instead of always fiddling with the burner, and there are fewer hot spots, too. They also include frying baskets which make removing freshly fried food that much easier. You’ll feel like a bonafide fry cook in no time.
How many times can you reuse oil in a deep fryer?You can reuse filtered oil between three and eight times, depending on how clean it looks after each batch. Breaded foods tend to leave leftover bits that can burn, which cuts down the lifespan of your frying oil. Our favorite deep fryer from All-Clad features a built-in filter and automatic draining cycle, which helps extend the life of frying oil without any active cleanup.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezA great pasta dish is all about the successful pairing of textures and flavors. When I'm developing a pasta recipe, I try to focus on one or two main ingredients, with several other components to pull it all together. Such is the story of this easy dinner: It’s based on the classic duo of broccoli and orecchiette, but here, they’re bound together by a creamy sauce that’s tinted with turmeric and finished with the buttery crunch of hazelnuts.
The traditional broccoli-based sauce for orecchiette is simple in preparation and flavor. It is made by first boiling the broccoli, then cooking it further in olive oil with basic aromatics like garlic, until it’s melt-in-your-mouth tender. While this is delicious in its own right, with this recipe I wanted something more complex tasting. Instead of boiling the broccoli, I chose to sear half of it in a Dutch oven, allowing the Maillard reaction—a series of chemical reactions that happen when sugars and proteins are exposed to high heat—to bring out the vegetable’s natural bittersweet flavors. Like most members of the Brassica family, broccoli takes to high heat rather well. A quick sear to crisp and brown the exterior is a simple and foolproof way to develop deeper, sweeter flavor. The broccoli takes on prominent notes of smokiness and bittersweet flavors, making it a natural pairing with just about everything: creamy dairy, spices (like earthy turmeric), and crunchy hazelnuts.
The remaining broccoli goes in after, becoming sweet and tender as it cooks down with the garlic, red pepper flakes, heavy cream, and turmeric, which lends the sauce a pleasant earthiness and vivid hue.
This broccoli pasta is an easy recipe that comes together quickly, and it’s a good candidate for riffing on, too. There’s really no right or wrong way to go about it. I often use it as a vehicle for any leftover ingredients from the pantry or fridge, tossing in a handful of peas, roasted vegetables, or fresh herbs. Use this recipe as a springboard for creativity, and you’ll never have a boring pasta dinner ever again.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a medium Dutch oven or large sauté pan, heat oil over high heat until just smoking. Add half the broccoli, season lightly with salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned on at least one side, about 5 minutes. Lower heat to medium-low, stir in remaining broccoli, and season lightly with salt. Stir in garlic and red pepper flakes and cook until garlic is fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd heavy cream along with 1 cup (240ml) water and the turmeric, bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cover and cook until broccoli is very tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add orecchiette and cook until just shy of al dente (1 to 2 minutes fewer than package directions). Drain pasta, reserving 1/2 cup (120ml) pasta water.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd orecchiette to pasta sauce and cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until pasta is al dente and sauce is thickened and coats noodles, but is still liquid enough to pool in the bottom of the pot, about 2 minutes. Add more water, in 1/4 cup (60ml) increments as needed, to achieve desired consistency (keep in mind, it will thicken even more once cheese is stirred in).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRemove from heat, add Parmigiano-Reggiano, and stir vigorously to incorporate. Season with salt to taste. Divide between warmed serving bowls, topping each portion with toasted hazelnuts and additional grated cheese. Serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentDutch oven
NotesBlanched hazelnuts have had their skins removed. Hazelnut skins can lend dishes an unpleasant bitter flavor. If you can’t find blanched nuts, you can toast the hazelnuts in an oven preheated to 325ºF (160ºC) for several minutes, then wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub them together until the skins come off.
Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinFor tea drinkers, a morning feels incomplete without a steaming cuppa. And as dedicated tea people know, loose-leaf tea is where it’s at. But, for that, a tea infuser is needed.
For those new to the tea world, tea infusers are a great way to save waste (by avoiding single-use tea bags) and unlock tea’s fuller flavor. Individual tea bags can actually hinder tea extraction. According to The Spruce Eats, steeping loose-leaf tea allows “room for tea leaves to absorb water and expand as they infuse. This allows the water to flow through the leaves and extract a wide range of vitamins, minerals, flavors, and aromas from the leaves.”
So, to find the best tea infusers, we tested 10 of them—priced between $7 and $31.
The Winners, at a GlanceOut of the ball tea infusers we tested, we found that the Norpro was the easiest to load, remove, and clean. This stood true for fine leaf, whole leaf, and flower bud teas. The small clasp ensured that the infuser stayed closed during steeping, and the chain—attached to an adorable mini teapot weight—made retrieval easy.
The Fenshine proved an excellent choice when it came to basket tea infusers. From fine-leaf tea to flower bud tea, each tea type was easy to load into this particular infuser. With each test, we found that no leaves made it through the infuser and into the hot water. The handy rubber and stainless steel cap doubled as both a top and a small dish for the infuser after steeping.
For those looking for a larger basket infuser, the Finum was a great option. The depth of the infuser was excellent for making multiple servings of tea, as well as for fitting an entire flower bud with room to spare. Nothing got past this infuser’s mesh (we couldn't say this for all the models we tested.)
During testing, we were very pleased with how this dainty infuser from OXO handled fine leaf, whole leaf, and flower bud teas. From loading to steeping to cleaning, this infuser was excellent from start to finish.
The Tests Fine-Leaf Tea Test: In order to see how the strainers handled fine-leaf tea, we steeped one to two servings (depending on the height of the infuser) of fine-leaf tea in each infuser. We paid careful attention to if any of the leaves fell through the holes. * Larger Whole-Leaf Tea Test: We used larger-leaf tea to test each infuser’s usability and performance. We noted if any leaves escaped the infusers. * Flower Bud Tea Test: We loaded a dried flower bud into each infuser and then noted how the buds expanded and if they fell apart during the removal process. * Usability and Cleanup Tests:* Throughout testing, we evaluated how easy the infusers were to load, unload, and clean.
What We LearnedWe Tested Two Types of Tea InfusersSerious Eats / Abigail ClarkinThe 10 infusers we tested fell into two camps: ball and basket infusers. Ball infusers were great for single servings of tea. These small, orb infusers were comprised of two mesh or stainless steel halves (with tiny holes for straining) and were hinged in the middle. Sometimes a clasp held each half closed, while other models required a twisting or pinching motion to shut them. During steeping, the infusers rested on the bottom of the mugs. When it was time to remove them, we pulled a long handle or chain to tug the infusers back up to the surface.
Then, there were the basket infusers: great for anyone looking to steep more than a single serving of tea. These were cylindrical and open at the top. Loading simply required setting the infuser on the lip of the mug and then dropping the appropriate amount of tea leaves inside. Their lids also doubled as small dishes to rest the infusers on after use. Like the ball infusers, the basket models we tested were made from mesh and plastic or stainless steel, with small holes for filtration.
Some Tea Infusers Struggled, Especially with Fine Loose-Leaf TeaIt’s always great when something meets the basic requirements of its job description. And, happily, nearly all the infusers contained tea leaves well. We were especially pleased with the performances of some of the cylindrical basket infusers, such as the Fenshine and Finum. Both of these infusers passed our fine loose leaf, whole loose leaf, and flower bud tea tests with flying colors.
A few of the other infusers struggled. The Teabloom Universal Glass Tea Infuser leaked leaves with every single test. (Had we wanted to watch pretty petals swirl gently in a glass vessel, we would have purchased a tea-themed snow globe.) Each of the ball tea infusers had shortcomings too, specifically when handling fine loose-leaf tea. While the Norpro Stainless Steel Mesh Tea Infuser Ball was one of our overall top picks, even this model leaked, thought it was one singular, fine leaf.
Certain Infusers Were Easier to Load Than OthersSerious Eats / Abigail ClarkinOut of all the basket and ball tea infusers we tested, we found the basket models were much easier to load. All you had to do was drop the tea into the infuser's open top, then set it on a mug.
Ball tea infusers, though, required a bit more work. For example, we had to add tea leaves and then twist the handle of The OXO BREW Twisting Tea Ball Infuser to close it. There was also the Jexcull Snap Ball Tea Strainer that relied, annoyingly, on squeezing both of the infuser’s stainless steel arms together to split the mesh orb in two. Much tougher!
When It Came to Basket Infusers, Size and Length Were ImportantSerious Eats / Abigail ClarkinSince we removed each infuser at the end of every test, it quickly became apparent which basket infusers had superior handles. The best options had plastic and rubber handles (these stayed cool!) or ones that extended beyond the diameter of the mug. The Fenshine, FORLIFE, and OXO basket handle lengths all excelled here: we could easily pick them up and out of the mug.
The Teabloom had no handles at all, and we admit some strong language escaped us when we removed the hot glass infuser. With its stubby, small handles, the Vahdam Classic Tea Infuser was hard to pick up, as its handles got coated with condensation after brewing.
Cleaning the Infusers Was (Mostly) EasyGiving the infusers a quick rinse with hot, soapy water immediately after use removed most of the debris. But while cleaning, we did run into some issues. The Teabloom, for example, flaunted a few tiny slits in the glass for filtration. These slits were more of a hindrance than a help, though, since multiple leaves became stuck inside the narrow passageways and were tough to remove.
The Criteria: What to Look for In a Tea InfuserSerious Eats / Abigail ClarkinDuring testing, we carefully considered each tea infuser’s performance, usability, and cleanup. The best infusers retained almost all tea leaves. Our top picks were also very easy to handle. We looked for minimal spilling when loading tea leaves, handles that did not gather too much heat or condensation (which could lead to burnt fingers), and mesh that did not trap leaves during cleanup.
What we liked: The Norpro was one the easiest ball tea infusers to use. While others required spinning or pinching to open and close the two halves of their orbs, the Norpro consisted of two simply designed but generously sized halves connected by a hinge and closed with a clasp. We really liked the size of this infuser; there was even room for a flower bud to completely unfurl within its confines. Only during our fine tea leaf testing did we notice a small singular leaf escaped it. Unloading this particular infuser was also very easy. We were pleased with the chain that connected the infuser and the adorable mini teapot weight. The chain meant we didn’t have to fish out the infuser after steeping, and the weight ensured that the chain didn't go completely overboard. We’d recommend this infuser for those looking to make a single serving of tea.
What we didn’t like: While we were very pleased, overall, with the Norpro infuser, we did wish that the chain had just a little bit more length. We conducted our testing using a 20-ounce mug, and there was very little give to the chain as it extended down the outside of the cup. This meant the infuser was not resting at the bottom of the mug.
Price at time of publish: $6.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel * Includes: Infuser * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinWhat we liked: Loading and unloading the Fenshine was effortless thanks to the two thin stainless steel arms that extended away from the basket itself. The arms stayed cool and dry during steeping since they reached over the edge of the mug and away from any steam. This made removing the infuser from the mug especially easy. The Fenshine also came with a lovely rubber and stainless steel cap that acted as both a lid—it snapped easily into place—and a small dish that the infuser could be placed on top of after steeping. Cleanup was very easy as well. And for those who want to travel with a tea infuser on hand, the Fenshine was one of the smallest, most compact basket infusers we tested and had adjustable handles. (The basket did have room for more than one serving of tea, though.)
What we didn’t like: The slight unsteadiness of the Fenshine was our sole disappointment. The rounded, stainless steel arms did not have any grip on the lip of the mug where it rested. This meant that when we picked up the mug to move it, the infuser did shift from side-to-side (but its contents didn't spill into the water).
Price at time of publish: $9.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel and rubber * Includes: Infuser and lid * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinWhat we liked: The Finum was one of the largest infusers we tested (though it should be noted it is sold in a smaller size as well). It handled teas of various sizes well. After steeping fine leaf, whole loose leaf, and flower bud teas, not even the tiniest bit of tea escaped. The entire infuser was quite lightweight, including the lid, and easy to load and unload. The small plastic handles were unaffected by condensation and heat, so removal was painless.
What we didn’t like: When cleaning the Finum, we ran into multiple difficulties. While the depth of the infuser was a plus for capacity, the infuser’s narrowness at the bottom of the vessel meant that reaching it was a challenge. We had to stick our entire hand into the infuser to remove any leaves that were stuck. That said, if you turn it over and give it a rinse with your sink's spray attachment, that should do the trick. We also wish that the lid snapped on a bit more snugly.
Price at time of publish: $13.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel and BPA-free material * Includes: Infuser and lid * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe
What we liked: We were very pleased to test so many worthy, competitive basket infusers, including the OXO. Loading was very easy since the OXO was cylindrical and did not leave too much room for tea leaves to spill over the side while filling. Unloading was also easy. The infuser’s arms extended beyond the lip of the mug so we did not have to deal with any hot, condensation-flecked stainless steel when removing. We also liked that two out of three of the tests—the whole leaf and flower bud tea—resulted in zero tea leaves escaping the infuser.
What we didn’t like: While the OXO performed very well overall, a few specks of fine tea leaves did indeed make it past the infuser. We also wish that the handles were adjustable (like the Fenshine) so that storing the infuser did not take up as much space.
Price at time of publish: $15.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel and silicone * Includes: Infuser and lid * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinThe Competition* OXT 3 Pcs Tea Infuser: For anyone looking for a bargain, this set of three identical infusers might prove tempting! But we did not love the infuser’s clasp (it was stubborn to close) and a few leaves escaped during steeping. * Teabloom Universal Glass Tea Infuser: We really liked the appearance of the Teabloom infuser, but it proved very inconvenient (and damp) to remove from the mug. Pieces of leaves repeatedly got stuck in the filtration slits during cleaning. * Vadham Classic Tea Infuser: Unfortunately, we were not fans of the Vadham’s tippiness. It was also challenging to clean since leaves got stuck in the infuser’s filtration pores. * OXO BREW Twisting Tea Ball Infuser: While we didn't mind the cool twist-to-open feature of this ball infuser, the number of leaves that escaped during steeping made it not worth it. * Jexcull Snap Ball Tea Strainer: When measuring out tea, we definitely prefer to avoid a mess. The Jexcull made this difficult since we had to squeeze both handles together in order to open and load the infuser. * FORLIFE Brew-in-Mug Extra-Fine Tea Infuser with Lid: Although the FORLIFE was definitely in the running as one of our favorites, a few leaves escaped during steeping and it was a bit of a hassle to clean.
FAQsHow do you use a tea infuser?Ball tea infusers can be loaded with a serving size of tea leaves, snapped shut, and then submerged in hot water. For basket tea infusers, loose leaf tea leaves can be measured out directly into the basket and then hot water can be poured over the basket. Over time, the leaves will unfurl and the tea leaf flavors and qualities will steep into the water.
Can you use a tea infuser for coffee?Only a few of the tea infusers we tested also doubled as brewing baskets for coffee. We found that those that were cylindrical and had a tight mesh were sometimes advertised as able to filter both tea and coffee. While this may work fine in a pinch, we recommend just investing in a pourover coffee maker.
How does a tea infuser work?Tea infusers are usually small, reusable stainless steel strainers, or mesh baskets. Users can spoon loose-leaf tea directly into the infusers, pour hot water over the leaves, and then wait for the tea to steep. These infusers ensure that little to no tea leaves end up in the final cup, while also allowing the tea leaves to fully unfurl and infuse their flavors.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI remember driving through Hatch, New Mexico, during chile season one summer on a cross-country road trip. The area is famous for the quality (and heat level) of the various cultivars of New Mexico chile it grows, and every summer during chile season you’ll find chiles tumbling around inside iron cages like bingo balls as farmers, gas station attendants, grocery store clerks, and families roast the chiles over open gas flames for sale or for their freezers. The smell that permeated the air was intoxicating. Smoky, charred, sweet, grassy, and hot.
A few summers later, on the opposite side of the planet, I smelled the same aroma again at a restaurant in Chongqing, where I’d asked the chef to prepare their specialties. I was working my way through a delicious salad of chopped rabbit with chiles and peanuts, dutifully popping pieces into my mouth, sucking off the succulent, chile-laced meat, and depositing the tiny bones in a bowl, when the server dropped the next dish at my little table, his back already turned to me as he hurriedly made his way back to the kitchen. As soon as the smell hit me, I was transported back to that summer driving through New Mexico. I guess charred, blackened chiles are a universally appealing aroma.
The dish was hupi qingjiao, or “tiger-skin peppers,” so called because of the way pepper skins will split as they char, forming stripes like a tiger’s coat. Just as the best way to enjoy Hatch chiles is in chile-forward dishes like New Mexico chile verde, so too tiger-skin peppers is a simple, chile-forward dish with only a few auxiliary ingredients to complement the pepper flavor. In Chongqing, the dish was made with small, moderately hot Hunan peppers called xiao qingjiao (literally “small green pepper,”) but back here in the United States I use whatever I can get my hands on. When Hatch chile season rolls around and I can find them locally in California, I snatch them up. Otherwise, regular old Anaheims (a milder California cultivar of the same New Mexico chiles) or long green peppers from the Asian supermarket work well. If you are a chile-head who can handle the heat, even serrano or jalapeño chiles will work in this recipe.
There are a number of different techniques I’ve found for how to cook this. Some recipes recommend stir-frying the chiles in a little oil. Some suggest deep-frying until the chiles split open. My favorite technique is the one that produces the most char: cooking the chiles in a dry wok, pressing on them firmly with the bottom of my wok spatula to get really good contact between the chiles and the metal. When the wok is the right temperature, you should be able to feel the vibrations in your spatula (just like a video game rumble pack) as the chiles bubble and split under the heat and pressure.
Once the chiles are tender and charred, the rest is a quick stir-fry of garlic seasoned with soy sauce. The recipe includes directions for adding pork to the stir-fry, but the pork is completely optional. I leave it out most of the time. The chiles are the real star here.
Heat a dry wok over medium-high heat until lightly smoking. Add the chiles, spread them into a single layer, and cook, tossing and turning occasionally and pressing firmly on the chiles with a spatula to make good contact between the chiles and the wok, until the chiles are blistered and browned on all sides and slightly softened, about 8 to 10 minutes total. Transfer the chiles to a bowl and set aside.
Return the wok to medium-high heat until lightly smoking. Add the oil, swirl to coat, and immediately add pork (if using). Stir-fry, using the spatula to break up larger chunks, until the pork is no longer pink, about 30 seconds, then immediately add the garlic. Stir-fry until fragrant, about 15 seconds. Return the chiles to the wok and toss to combine. Splash in the soy sauce around the edges of the wok and season with a pinch of salt and sugar. Toss to combine, transfer to a serving platter, and serve with steamed rice.
Vicky WasikAh, the drumstick, a neglected but versatile cut of chicken! Grill 'em or fry 'em and they get a really snappy bite; opt for a braise and you're left with a succulent, tender piece of meat. They also happen to be one of the more inexpensive cuts of meat from a chicken. So, what are you waiting for? From a Senegalese braised chicken to a classic Italian dish and multiple types of fried chicken, we've got 13 drumstick recipes to satisfy your hunger no matter what you're craving.
Ghanaian Chicken and Peanut Stew (Groundnut Soup)Vicky WasikPeanut butter and tomatoes lend a rich and creamy backdrop to this simple, hearty Ghanaian chicken stew.
Chicken Cacciatore With Mushrooms, Tomato, and OnionVicky WasikAn earthy, hearty version of the classic Italian dish, this recipe stars juicy, tender pieces of chicken leg, braised in white wine with mushrooms, onion, and tomato.
Taiwanese Three Cup Chicken (San Bei Ji)Serious Eats / Qi AiEqual parts soy sauce, rice wine, and sesame oil create a viscous, dark sauce for braising chopped pieces of bone-in chicken.
Jamaican Curry ChickenSerious Eats / Karina MatalonMarinated with an assortment of spices and coated in a rich, creamy gravy, this flavorful curry chicken is a simple and delicious Jamaican staple.
The Best Buttermilk-Brined Southern Fried ChickenAndrew JanjigianThis recipe yields chicken with a deep brown, craggy crust that's shatteringly crisp and intensely juicy.
Extra-Crispy Fried Chicken With Caramelized Honey and SpiceVicky WasikInspired by Popeyes, this fried chicken has that signature airy crust of rugged and scraggy bits, coupled with some personal touches.
Obe Ata (Nigerian Red Pepper Sauce)This versatile recipe delivers a flavorful red pepper tomato sauce for a stew or dip.
Batter-Fried ChickenVicky WasikPotato starch gives this straightforward method of frying chicken an edge.
Jamaican Pan ChickenSerious Eats / Karina MatalonMarinated with fragrant island spices like Scotch bonnet pepper, scallion, and thyme, pan chicken is hot, smoky, and tender—the ultimate Jamaican fast food.
Lowcountry Stew ChickenSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis South Carolina stew is complete with a deeply flavored, light-bodied sauce.
Chicken Yassa (Senegalese Braised Chicken With Caramelized Onions)Jillian AtkinsonThis Senegalese dish offers a citrus-forward version of your favorite stewed and smothered chicken-and-onion dishes.
Homemade Pollo Campero (Central American–Style Fried Chicken)Photograph above: Karla Vasquez; Process photographs: Tim ChinPollo Campero is a restaurant chain that originated in Guatemala and is now famous throughout much of Central America and beyond—in particular for the juicy, flavorful, and richly spiced fried chicken recreated by this recipe.
Maryland Fried Chicken With White GravyVicky WasikMaryland Fried Chicken is the Old Line State's simple but indulgent answer to chicken-fried steak.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeat lovers sometimes write off the tender-but-low-in-flavor psoas major—the muscle known as filet mignon when referring to beef and pork tenderloin when it comes from a pig. Why would you buy that when there are fatty ribs, substantial shoulders, and, you know, bacon. But I have an appreciation for pork tenderloin in particular, as do many others. I find it to be a perfectly lovely cut that's also perfectly easy to cook. Short of drying it out to sawdust, it's also pretty difficult to mess up.
But even if it's a relatively easy piece of meat to cook, there are still better and worse ways to go about it. When I started working on a grilled pork tenderloin recipe, I had two main questions to explore. One was whether it was better to just chuck it over the grill's high heat and cook it from raw or do more of a "reverse-sear" approach where the pork is cooked at a lower temperature first to develop an even doneness throughout and then finished over high heat for a flavorful sear. The other question was whether a basic marinade improved the meat or wasted time.
The good news is, based on my tests, the easiest option is also basically the best. Most of the time, you'll be just fine setting a plain pork tenderloin on the grill and cooking it all in one go over high heat.
Okay, I Lied, There Is One Time-Consuming Step to Do First: Salt the MeatAbout that "you'll be just fine just setting it on the grill" thing. I was a being bit glib, because there's one thing we know from extensive testing and experience, and it's that pre-salting the meat at least 45 minutes in advance (and preferably for several hours) improves flavor, moisture retention and subsequent juiciness, and, when left uncovered during that dry-brining period, ensures deeper browning on the exterior as well.
Salting the meat draws out some of its moisture, which you can see as liquid beads on the salted surfaces. Some of that salty brine eventually reabsorbs into the meat, seasoning it more deeply. Given enough time, the surface of the meat will eventually dry out, and the more dried it is when it hits the grill, the sooner it'll stop steaming and start browning. All of these are good things, and you should do them if you have time.
If you don't have time, that's okay. Just salt the meat right before you put it on the grill. You won't get the same penetration of salt and enhanced browning, but it'll work just fine, especially over a truly hot grill.
For these tests, I dry-brined all the pork tenderloins I cooked for a few hours before proceeding to the marinating and cooking stages.
To Reverse-Sear or Not to Reverse-SearSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe reverse-sear, in which you start in a low oven or on the cooler side of a grill before moving it to high heat for a finishing sear, is often a smart way to cook meat. It can improve your chances of hitting the doneness level you want, since that low-temperature initial cook heats the meat much more slowly; it also further dehydrates the surface of the meat, allowing for even better browning once it's high-heat time; and it maximizes a nice pink interior with less of a gradient to the well-done surface.
Sounds good, right?
Well, it is good, but it's not always as effective on smaller roasts. If the cut isn't very thick, the time it takes to sear it after a slow initial cook is often pretty close to the time it takes to sear it from raw. This means that even with the reverse-sear, you can end up with a comparable gradient and final doneness level to that of a piece of meat you cooked from start-to-finish on the grill over high heat.
I suspected the reverse-sear wasn't going to be a great option for pork tenderloin—that's what Kenji found some years ago when testing the tenderloin for stovetop pan-searing, and I didn't see any reason why the grill would be much different. But I still wanted to make sure.
As predicted, testing confirmed the reverse-sear didn't help here. I had the same experience as Kenji in his pan-roasting tests. The reverse-seared tenderloin took much longer and had just as much of a gradient as the high-heat-from-the-start tenderloin.
I will offer one caveat, though: The tenderloin is a whole muscle, and therefore its thickness is determined by the animal, not by how the butcher cuts it. It is possible that some tenderloins will be large enough ("large" here is in reference to thickness, not length) to possibly make a reverse-sear slightly more beneficial, but for your average pork tenderloin, it's not much help.
Whether to MarinadeThere are several ways to add flavor to a piece of roasted or grilled meat. You can serve them with a flavorful sauce. You can encrust them with a spice rub or herbs. You can baste them, glaze them, stuff them, purify them in the waters of Lake Minnetonka.
Since my intention here is a very basic grilled pork tenderloin recipe, I didn't want to do anything too specific in the flavor realm, but I did want to see if a brief marinade with some olive oil and woodsy herbs like rosemary and sage was a worthwhile light treatment, ideally something that adds a hint of complexity without giving the pork any kind of dramatic makeover in the flavor department.
After rubbing the tenderloin all over with those woodsy herbs and some olive oil and letting it linger together for 30 minutes before popping it on the grill...I got nothing. The char flavor that developed over the grill's high heat wiped out whatever marinade flavor may have been there, making marination a futile exercise.
This doesn't mean no marinades will work, or that you can't flavor the meat in some way, but if you want a noticeable marinade flavor, you're probably going to have to make a much more bold marinade, which, again, wasn't my goal here. In short, I think for a basic grilled pork tenderloin, you can skip the marinade and just lean into a flavorful sauce to serve it with. One idea: take that woodsy herb and olive oil marinade and turn it into a little sauce by finely mincing the herbs and adding salt and other seasonings. An approach like that will deliver a lot more flavor than a marinade made with the same ingredients, but with less time dedicated to futzing with the meat.
Sprinkle pork tenderloins all over with salt, place on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet, and refrigerate for at least 45 minutes and up to 24 hours.
Light a chimney full of charcoal. When all charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and arrange coals on one side of coal grate and set grilling grate in place. Alternatively, set half the burners of a gas grill to high heat. Cover grill and allow to preheat for 5 minutes. Clean and oil grilling grate.
Season tenderloins all over with pepper, then set over hot side of grill and cook, turning often, until well browned on all sides, about 15 minutes. Move tenderloins to cooler side of grill and continue to cook, turning often, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 120 to 130°F (49 to 54°C) for medium-rare or 130 to 140°F (54 to 60°C) for medium. Transfer pork to a carving board and let rest for 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCarve pork tenderloins and serve as desired.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentGas or charcoal grill, rimmed baking sheet with wire rack, instant-read thermometer
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonA deeply satisfying stew with an incredibly rich and flavorful gravy, oxtail with broad beans has become a rare treat for many as the price of oxtail has gone up over time. Though it was once a weekly staple for weekend lunch or dinner, nowadays the lament is often that “the oxtail is too dear,” which essentially means that the cut of meat is far too expensive to buy regularly anymore. We fondly remember enjoying bowls of this stew when we were younger that were filled to the brim with butter beans, spinners, and, most importantly, big, thick, juicy oxtails with lots of meat. Sucking the gravy from the bone marrow is probably one of life’s most pleasurable activities. Served over white rice (it may be controversial, but we personally prefer it with rice and peas) with a side of avocado, ripe plantain, and salad or coleslaw, this is a meal that one wants to relish slowly and deliberately.
The History and Tradition of Jamaican OxtailThe origin of stews like oxtail can be traced back to our colonial heritage. Enslaved Africans on plantations were given very meager amounts of protein and often had to make do with cheaper cuts of meat or ends of slaughtered animals to add protein to their diets. This is why so many Jamaican dishes have ingredients like pig’s tail, cow foot, chicken foot, tongue, and organs, like liver, tripe, etc. Jamaica does not have an extensive cattle-farming past; we have always had a stronger tradition of pig farming, which means that beef of any kind, and in particular fresh beef, would have been viewed as a rare treat indeed. The island was not known for its high quality meats; the intense heat and tropical climate meant that everything spoiled very quickly, and therefore, everything had to be cured, pickled, preserved, or stewed in brine. When an animal was slaughtered fresh, the tail, skin, hooves, and all the other parts that were of little use to wealthy plantation owners became delicacies for the workers who would preserve as much of the meat as possible for storage or sale, then prepare a shared feast with the rest.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonAnd so became the tradition of combining cheap cuts of bone-in protein with some vegetables, lots of aromatics and Scotch bonnet pepper, starch in the form of either spinners (dumplings), provisions, or root vegetables, and beans, pulses, or greens. Just like that, you had a one-pot, hearty meat stew like oxtail. In fact, it could almost be argued that while everyone thinks of curry goat as Jamaica's number one specialty, we believe oxtail actually outranks curry goat in popularity—it's just served in fewer places and more often found at home.
Technique: Transforming a Tough Cut of MeatThe key to transforming naturally tough and chewy oxtail into soft morsels of meat that readily slide off the bone is to braise it low and slow. This allows the vast amounts of collagen and connective tissue to slowly break down, rendering the oxtail tender and resulting in a broth thick with gelatin. We first sear the oxtail to create roasted depth of flavor via the Maillard reaction for our braise. It's important to brown the oxtail in batches to prevent overcrowding in the Dutch oven, which would cause the meat to steam instead of sear.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonIt's also crucial to remove excess marinade from the meat before searing, and to closely monitor and adjust the heat level while browning to prevent scorching. Deglazing with a small amount of water is essential for releasing all the flavorful browned bits from the Dutch oven so it can be incorporated into the braising liquid. Next, we gently simmer the aromatics and meat with the remaining water for close to three hours. All you have to do is monitor the pot from time to time to ensure that the temperature and the quantity of liquid is as it should be, just barely covering the meat.
A short aside here: while we use a fairly conventional braising method in our recipe here, we were taught a fascinating technique by a lovely lady who worked with us for a number of years that’s worth sharing. She had learned it from an elderly lady she once worked with. It is as follows: once the meat is in the pot, instead of adding water to cover (as we have in our recipe), one would cover the meat with a layer of ice. As the ice melts, becomes liquid in the pot, and steams away, more ice is gradually added throughout the cooking process. While the science behind this is not totally clear to us, we assume that if cooking over a live fire or high, hard-to-regulate heat source, which was more common in the past, the ice serves as a clever way to lower and regulate the cooking temperature in the pot, ensuring a simmer and not the vigorous boil that would make the meat tough and dry. In a sense, this re-creates the technique of braising at a well regulated temperature even if the heat source isn't easy to regulate.
Finishing Steps for a Perfect Final TextureWith the oxtail tender and the broth rich in flavor, we turn our focus to the spinners (dumplings) and beans. Do not undervalue these final components. While the spinners are optional, they add hearty sustenance and release starch to help further thicken and add body to the stew. The key to successfully shaping the dumplings—made of a simple mixture of flour, water, and salt—is to rest the dough for a short period of time after kneading. After vigorous mixing, the gluten in the dough needs time to relax so it can be rolled easily and hold its thin cylindrical shape before being added to the stew. As for the beans, we add them, along with the dumplings, during the final 30 minutes of cooking so they can cook up tender in the stew without turning to mush.
With a deliciously thick and rich gravy, well-prepared oxtail is a truly soul-satisfying meal that is well worth the effort and long hours required to make it.
- For the Marinated Oxtail: In a blender, combine onion, scallion, garlic, and Scotch bonnet with 1/2 cup (120ml) water and blend until thoroughly pureed. Rub oxtail all over with soy sauce, salt, pepper, and thyme. Transfer oxtail to a large bowl or large zipper-lock bag and pour blended aromatics on top. Mix well to coat, then cover bowl or seal bag, pushing out air as you go. Refrigerate for 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonRemove oxtail from marinade and scrape off excess marinade. Reserve marinade for later use.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonFor the Stew: In a Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Working in batches to avoid crowding the pot, add oxtail and cook until browned all over, about 5 minutes per side (oxtail will brown more quickly and deeply due to the marinade, but turn down heat if it threatens to burn). Transfer oxtail to a platter and repeat with remaining oxtail, adding more oil to the pot if necessary.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonAdd 1 cup (240ml) water to Dutch oven and bring to a simmer, scraping bottom of pot to remove any browned bits. Return oxtail and any juices to the pot.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonAdd onions, scallion, garlic, thyme, Scotch bonnet pepper, and browning or soy sauce to oxtail. Add just enough water to cover meat, bring to a simmer, then reduce heat, cover, and let simmer for 40 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdd reserved oxtail marinade to pot and stir to combine. Continue to gently simmer, uncovered, adding a little water from time to time to ensure oxtail remains just barely covered, until oxtail is tender, about 2 hours.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonFor the Spinners (Optional) and to Finish: If making spinners: In a small bowl, whisk together flour and a large pinch of salt. Add 1/2 cup (118ml) cold water and knead until a sticky dough ball forms. Cover and let rest 15 minutes. Tear off small pieces of dough and roll them into cigarette-sized strips. Stir into oxtail.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonStir in butter or broad beans and let simmer until stew is thickened, about 30 minutes. Remove thyme sprigs.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonAdd black pepper, season with salt, and serve with white rice or rice and peas, plantain, sliced avocado, and a nice fresh green salad.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonSpecial EquipmentDutch oven
NotesBrowning, the Jamaican kitchen pantry staple, is a sauce made of caramelized sugar and is used to lend color and scorchy-sweet-umami flavor to this recipe. You can use a bottled version of browning in this recipe, such as Grace brand. In a pinch, soy sauce may be substituted.
In Jamaica, the oxtails are small and the meat is not very thick on the bone. It can be quite tough, so many prefer to use a pressure cooker to prepare it. While our recipe does not require that, it is an option. If using a pressure cooker, reduce cooking time of oxtail by about 1 hour; seal the pressure cooker after adding marinade in Step 6 and bring to high pressure, then cook for 1 hour. Once pressure is released, oxtail should be tender and you can proceed with recipe as written.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe finished oxtail can be frozen for up to 2 months. To freeze, separate meat from liquid, then seal in an airtight container and freeze separately; to reheat, bring liquid to a boil and add frozen meat as needed. Adjust sauce with more liquid if necessary.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinIt’s no secret amongst friends and colleagues that my husband and I are coffee enthusiasts. I’m talking about the sort of person that owns multiple burr grinders, various pour-over and French press devices, a couple of gooseneck kettles, and a number of our favorite travel mugs.
But when the pandemic hit a few years ago and all our local coffee shops and roasters closed their brick-and-mortar stores, we started buying coffee beans in bulk online from them. And though all our local coffee shops have since re-opened, we still occasionally purchase a 5-pound bulk bag because it’s just significantly cheaper and more convenient.
Buying in such large quantities meant we had to figure out how to store the beans in a way that kept them fresh. Thankfully we already owned a couple of Fellow Atmos coffee canisters—and we quickly bought more of them.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinRoasted coffee beans start to degrade in quality the minute air hits them through a process called oxidation. Coffee beans (and also the liquid coffee that is brewed from the beans) contain hundreds of flavor and aroma molecules. Those molecules react with the oxygen in the air and bond with it, losing their flavor and aroma the longer they are exposed to air. It’s the same process that causes cast iron skillets to rust if you haven’t properly seasoned them, or a sliced apple to turn brown if left out.
But if you minimize the air that touches the beans, they'll last longer. Retail coffee bags do this by using plastic one-way valves that are often embedded into the back of the bag. The valve allows gas to exit the bag, but no air to enter it. Freshly roasted beans continue to expel carbon dioxide for up to four to five days after their initial roasting, so the one-way valve is important, otherwise, the bag would expand and potentially explode. Actually, keeping coffee in a sealed bag is one of the best ways to preserve the freshness of beans (as we found in our testing here).
Serious Eats / Irvin LinBut once you open the bag, the coffee is exposed to air and starts to degrade. Most coffee storage containers try to preserve freshness by creating an airtight seal or displacing the air. But any air already in the storage container with the beans can still degrade and oxidize them, as we found out when we tested three popular coffee canisters. The Fellow Atmos is different, though: it has a vacuum seal.
The trick is in the lid itself. Pour the coffee beans into the container, place the lid on top, then twist the lid. Continue to twist the lid, pumping the air out of the container, until a little button drops down and shows green. This indicates the air has been pumped out. Much like the vacuum sealing cork stoppers for wine bottles, the lack of air in the container means the beans will stay fresher for longer (as we explained here, "it kept coffee the freshest and the best-tasting of the bunch of canisters we tested.") I've found the seal holds up well for two to three deals if left alone. To open the container, just press the center button, and air will be let in, allowing you to lift off the lid with minimal effort.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinThe Fellow Atmos containers come in matte black, matte white, and clear. The matte black and white are sleek and modern in appearance, a handsome addition to our countertop along with all of our other coffee gear. They also have the added bonus of keeping light out (light can degrade coffee beans, too). But there is something to be said about the convenience of clear glass, as you always know exactly how many coffee beans you have at a glance. And as long as you keep the glass containers behind a pantry door, light shouldn’t be an issue.
FAQsShould you store coffee in its bag? In our testing, we found resealable bags with one-way valves do a fine job at storing coffee. In fact, we don't think most coffee canisters are worthwhile (read: they won't keep coffee fresher than the bag its comes in)—with the exception of vacuum-sealed canisters like the Fellow Atmos.
Serious Eats / Emily DrydenWhile professional bakers have long sung the praises of baking by weight, some home bakers may still be wary of adopting kitchen scales as their primary measuring tool. And we get it—if you’re used to baking by volume using cups, teaspoons, and tablespoons, switching to a scale can seem unnecessary. However, if you’re not using a kitchen scale yet, you’re missing out on a tool that will make your baked goods better, your pickles crunchier (it's essential for figuring out the ratio of ingredients to brine), and your dishwasher emptier.
As a long-time professional baker, I consider my kitchen scale to be one of my most important kitchen tools, and you should too. As part of my quest to convert many a kitchen-scale nonbeliever, I also reached out to David Johnson, kitchen manager at the Rhode Island School of Design (and former executive chef at Bayberry Beer Hall) and Benjamin Stroud, prep cook at the eddy bar in Providence, Rhode Island, to get their input on how they think scales benefit their kitchen endeavors.
Scales are Great for Baking—and Beyond Another complaint I often hear is that baking is soooo precise that there’s no room for error. It’s true that baking requires more precision, so it makes sense to use a precision tool to do a precise task. Rather than counting out multiple cups of flour or adding 1/4 to 1/2 to 1 teaspoon because your recipe calls for 1 3/4 teaspoons of something, you can just use a scale. I remember as a kid using something like 16 quarter cups of flour to make my dad’s birthday cake because the quarter cup measure was the only one that fit in the flour jar. I also remember losing count, and starting over, moving the flour from one bowl to another (oh look—another dirty dish!).
Other precise kitchen tasks can benefit from using a scale, like fermenting vegetables, for example. If you’re the type to lacto-ferment pickles or make your own sauerkraut, a scale ensures finding the proper ratio of vegetables and liquid to salt.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikAnd if you like making jam, a scale is necessary for weighing it to determine how much sugar to add. I usually like to make a quick and tasty “fridge jam” (not shelf-stable) by adding about 60% of the weight of the fruit in sugar before cooking it to 220°F. Chef Stroud says, “If I’m making something I know I’m going to want to recreate, I definitely pull out a scale and a pad of paper. If you know you have, say, 20 grams of salt in something and it tastes just a little too salty, it’s very easy to look at it and say, ‘Let’s drop it to 17 grams and go from there.’ Teaspoons and tablespoons are inconsistent and there isn’t a lot of gradation between them.”
Using a Scale Makes Recipe Conversion Easy Another advantage of using a scale is that you never have to switch between units (cups, teaspoons, tablespoons) which means you don’t need to learn any conversions, and you can always bake exactly as much product as you want. Did you know there are three teaspoons in a tablespoon, and 16 tablespoons in a cup? You will need to know (or look up) all of these equivalencies and more if you want to accurately halve or double a recipe written in volume. But if your recipe is in grams, you can easily adjust it in a few minutes with some basic math.
Using a Kitchen Scale = Less Dirty Dishes One of the biggest complaints I hear about cooking and baking at home is the number of dirty dishes —but there’s good news: a scale can help you cut down on this. Instead of getting out your liquid measuring cups, dry measuring cups, measuring spoons, and so on, you can weigh everything right into your mixing bowl. I find this especially helpful for ingredients like honey and peanut butter, which often cling to measuring spoons and cups. You can also prevent cross-contamination in your ingredient containers; no dipping the same measuring cup in the flour, then the nuts, then the sugar…
How to Choose a Kitchen Scale Serious Eats / Grace KellyOur favorite scales, from OXO and Escali, offer incredible accuracy across a range of weights, but make sure you choose the right scale for the job (e.g. if you’re measuring a small amount of yeast, scales might struggle to register it). A good rule of thumb is to refrain from using your scale to measure any amount smaller than 10 times its smallest measurement. For example, if your scale measures in grams, you wouldn’t want to use it for any amount smaller than 10 grams. When you’re measuring powerful ingredients such as yeast, salt, and baking powder or soda, each gram matters —rounding errors can swing your measurements too far off to be useful.
I keep a set of measuring spoons on hand for my smallest measurements, but you could also use a jeweler’s scale if you have one; these are accurate down to the 0.1 gram (but I wouldn’t use one to measure anything smaller than 1 gram). The flip side of a little scale is that they usually have a small platform and a low maximum weight. If you’re only going to invest in one scale (like one of our winners, which were accurate and versatile), look for accuracy down to a gram and keep using measuring spoons for small quantities of ingredients.
Tips for Scale Cleaning and CareSerious Eats / Emily DrydenFor basic clean-up, you can clean your scale just like you clean your counters. A quick wipe-down with a damp soapy sponge followed by a spray of food-safe sanitizer should be enough to recover from most projects. Most kitchen scales are relatively water-resistant, but avoid soaking your scale in liquid. Chef Johnson notes that his beloved Escali scale took a swim in the dish sink, but was restored to life after a 48-hour drying period with the batteries out.
If you start to notice a buildup of debris in the cracks and seams around buttons, spray your scale with a little cleaning product, and use a toothpick or cotton swab to remove sediment from the details. Some scales (like our favorite from OXO)
feature removable platforms that you can hand-wash separately in the sink. This is a great feature for when you’re weighing food out directly onto your scale’s surface like portioning bread dough into evenly-sized rolls.
FAQsShould I measure in grams or ounces and pounds?Some of the benefits of using a scale are lost when you measure in ounces instead of grams. All of those simple numbers and easy math? Gone when you're dealing with a quantity like one lb, 14.5 ounces. If I’m making a recipe for the first time, and it happens to be in ounces, I will happily switch the units on my scale and carry on as the author intended. If the recipe is a keeper, I will quickly convert it to grams using an online calculator. I keep a notebook in the kitchen for this purpose.
How do I convert a recipe from volume to weight?There are lots of resources online to convert recipes. I use this one, but it does require you to whip out a calculator and multiply the given unit by the amount in your recipe. Online calculators make this job even easier. Googling the phrase “how many grams of honey is in 3 tablespoons” led me to several accurate answers (63 grams). I like to write out the entire ingredient list in the same order as the recipe author (with my new gram measurements, of course) so I don’t get lost along the way.
Do you really need to bake with a scale?Many bakers continue to use volumetric measurements for their baking with great success. The key to doing so is to be incredibly consistent with your procedures. You should ideally sift your flour before measuring it, and gently spoon it into your measuring cup. Overfill it a bit before using a smooth flat object like an offset spatula to level it off. You will need to repeat that process for all of your dry ingredients while keeping an accurate count of what you’ve added. You also want to make sure that your measuring implements are accurate; there is a surprising amount of variation across different brands and designs. The reason for all of this fuss is that many ingredients can expand or compress. Once you spoon your flour into the measuring cup, for instance, you could tap it on the counter, use your spoon to push it into the corners, and probably fit a few more tablespoons of flour into the cup. It would still be “a cup of flour” but it would certainly not be the same amount as you put in originally. When faced with this level of uncertainty, I know that I choose to switch to a scale (and I even convert recipes originally written in volume to grams before I start baking).
How can I tell if my scale is accurate?An easy way to test the accuracy of your kitchen scale is to weigh the same item multiple times. It should register the same weight no matter the placement on the scale or amount of weight already on the scale. Zero your scale with something like a bowl on it. Scoot the bowl around the platform, take it off, put it back on. Your scale should stay at “0” at all times that the bowl is on the scale (as long as the bowl isn’t resting against any other nearby items). If it fluctuates by even a few grams, see if you can tighten up any connections, and if not, it may be time to replace your scale. If you want to test the calibration, you will need something with a known weight. There are scale calibration weights you can purchase, or you can use a few new nickels. They weigh five grams each, so stack up a few and test your scale’s accuracy and calibration.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPart of the fun of going out for cocktails is the theater of watching skilled bartenders shake up a drink. The clanking of ice against metal and the flash of stainless steel being brandished all contribute to the ambiance of the bar. But shaking a cocktail isn’t just about showing off: it’s an absolutely crucial step for mixing up many beloved libations.
Whether you’re hosting a party or just want to shake up a margarita once in a while, every home mixologist needs a cocktail shaker. Choosing the perfect shaker is a bit of a daunting task as there are (literally) hundreds of shakers on the market.
There are two primary styles of cocktail shaker: the Boston shaker and the cobbler shaker. To help you find the best cocktail shaker, we tested both styles separately. Below, we've rounded up our top picks from each of these reviews.
The Winners, at a Glance The Best Boston Shaker: Modern Mixologist Tin on Tin Shaker * The Best Budget-Friendly Boston Shaker: Piña Commercial Boston Tin Set * The Best Cobbler Shaker: Cocktail Kingdom Usagi Cobbler Shaker * The Best Budget-Friendly Cobbler:* OXO Steel Single Wall Cocktail Shaker
Why Do I Need a Cocktail Shaker?
Shaking cocktails is a crucial step in making proper drinks. The rule of thumb used by most bartenders is that any drink that contains fruit juice, dairy, or egg white needs to be shaken. This means that in order to make good margaritas, daiquiris, or whiskey sours at home, a cocktail shaker is a necessary tool.
Shaking a cocktail is done for a few important reasons. First and foremost, it fully mixes all of the ingredients of a drink into a homogenous liquid. Many ingredients used in mixology like spirits, liqueurs, syrups, and fruit juice vary in density, which means they need more than a simple stir to become fully integrated. The ice used when shaking a drink chills and dilutes the cocktail, which increases the overall volume of the cocktail while also reducing its alcohol content. Shaking also aerates the cocktail, which mellows some of the harsher flavors and improves the drink’s texture by adding a bit more body. Basically, some cocktails just won’t look or taste right if they aren’t shaken.
What's a Boston Shaker? Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe shaker most commonly used by professionals is the Boston shaker. These are comprised of two tins, one smaller than the other, that fit together to form an air-tight seal. Boston shakers are often preferred by professional bartenders due to their simplicity and size. The two tins are easy to clean and use, and they hold enough volume to make multiple servings of the same drink. It’s also easy to separate the tins once the cocktail is ready—just give them a solid whack. Boston shakers do require the use of a Hawthorne strainer in order to properly separate the ice and any other solids from the finished cocktail. There’s also a bit more of a learning curve with them; it can take some practice to figure out exactly how to get it to seal, and then unseal properly, but once mastered, this style of shaker is an invaluable tool behind the bar.
What Should You Look for in a Good Boston Shaker? Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAfter testing 12 Boston shakers, our top pick was the Modern Mixologist shaker set. When assessing a Boston shaker, the most important factors to consider are how well it seals and the build quality. The Modern Mixologist shaker excelled in both criteria. Across multiple cocktail tests, the shaker was able to maintain its seal without any leakage. It also boasted a sleek design without any welded seams, meaning the Modern Mixologist has little chance of breaking over time.
For a slightly more affordable option, we recommend the Piña Commercial Boston Tin Set. It’s about $5 to $10 cheaper than most of the other Boston shaker sets we tested but outperformed some of the higher-end shakers. Throughout our testing, the Piña shaker set maintained its seal just as well as our top pick from Modern Mixologist. Its only downside: the weights on each tin are welded on, which means there’s potential for them to fall off after prolonged, heavy use.
But What About Cobbler Shakers? Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCobbler shakers are the second most common style. They differ from Boston shakers in that they have a built-in strainer and consist of three parts: a shaker tin, a lid with a built-in strainer, and a cap that fits over the strainer to prevent any spills when shaking. The biggest upside with cobbler shakers is the built-in strainer. There’s no need for another bar tool, which makes this style attractive to home mixologists and beginners. However, the addition of a strainer does complicate the design. The cap is small enough to be easily lost, and cobbler shakers are notorious for getting stuck—sometimes permanently. The strainers in cobbler shakers also tend to have wider openings that sometimes allow for bits of muddled herbs, fruit, or shards of ice to pass through.
Should you opt for a cobbler shaker, we recommend the Usagi cobbler shaker from Cocktail Kingdom. In our tests, we found it to be sleek, stylish, and easy to use. It had a fairly large capacity and made up to three cocktails at a time. Basically, the Usagi delivered on every major criterion that makes a good cobbler shaker. However, for a budget-friendly option, OXO's our top choice.
Should You Buy a Boston or Cobbler Shaker? Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThe “best” cocktail shaker really depends on your needs. For novice home bartenders, the cobbler shaker is a great introductory tool. The built-in strainer definitely helps keep things simple and saves a little time and effort when shopping for bar tools. Those who are a bit more serious about mixology will probably find more utility in the Boston-style shakers. There’s a bit more of a learning curve when figuring out how to seal and unseal the tins, but it’s a tried and true tool.
What we liked: The Modern Mixologist Boston Shaker was easy to use and formed a perfect seal throughout all of our testing. It had a nice heft and balanced to it and lacked any welded seams (unlike many of the shakers we tested), which means there's less of a likelihood of any pieces falling off with time. We also thought it was easy to break the seal and affix a Hawthorne strainer to its opening.
What we didn't like: It's slightly shorter than other shakers and thus holds a few ounces less.
Price at time of publish: $33.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel * Capacity: 26- and 18 3/4-ounce tins * Dishwasher-safe: Yes * Good to know:* A mixing glass can be purchased separately
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhat we liked: For a more affordable option, we suggest the Piña Boston shaker. The build quality isn’t quite up to par with the Modern Mixologist, but it sealed up just as well in our tests. It also features a flared, stable base and we were able to unseal them easily. Plus, $25 for two tins makes this shaker an easy buy.
What we didn't like: The welded base isn't our favorite from a longevity perspective and some folks may find the flared base obtrusive during shaking.
Price at time of publish: $25.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel * Capacity: 28- and 18-ounce tins * Dishwasher-safe: Yes * Good to know:* You can choose between a brushed or polished finish
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhat we liked: We chose the Usagi cobbler shaker as our top pick for its sleek, stainless steel construction. It also has a large capacity, which is helpful for making multiple drinks at once (the manufacturer says two, though we found it fit three fine). It was well-insulated, too, delivering a nicely chilled drink while keeping our hands from getting frosty.
What we didn't like: Well, it's expensive. It's also heavier than other cobbler shakers.
Price at time of publish: $39.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel * Capacity: 28 ounces * Dishwasher-safe: Yes * Good to know:* Stated two drink capacity, though we found three fit fine
Serious Eats / Kate DingwallWhat we liked: With a sleek design, jigger cap, and nice capacity (enough for about two drinks), we think the OXO is a great, moderately priced ($23) option. In fact, as we said in our cobbler shakers review, "It's the best shaker we found for its price."
What we didn't like: While the built-in jigger is appealing (especially for those just starting their cocktail-making journey), its slanted sides made it very hard to pour from.
Price at time of publish: $23.
Key Specs Materials: Stainless steel * Capacity: 24 ounces * Dishwasher-safe: Yes * Good to know:* Jigger cap, though we recommend buying a separate jigger
Serious Eats / Kate DingwallFAQsHow do you use a cocktail shaker?To use a cocktail shaker, simply add all of the ingredients for a cocktail into one of the tins. Then add ice, seal the shaker, and shake vigorously. Once the cocktail is properly mixed and chilled, strain the liquid into a glass and serve.
How long do you shake a cocktail? A typical drink should be shaken for about 10 to 15 seconds. Some cocktails that include egg white or dairy may require extra shaking time or a dry shake (shaking without ice) to fully mix and emulsify the ingredients.
What do you use if you don’t have a cocktail shaker?If you don’t have access to a cocktail shaker but want to mix up a drink, a mason jar or a shaker bottle (like the kind used for protein drinks) should work in a pinch.
How do you open a stuck cocktail shaker?Cocktail shakers seal when the internal temperature drops and creates a vacuum inside the shaker tins. With a Boston shaker, you can release the seal by smacking the side of the tins where the two meet. There should be one side where there’s a bit more space between the tins (that’s where you should smack). With a cobbler shaker, your best bet is to let the cocktail and tin come up to room temperature and try opening it again.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI don’t have to get into why exactly good vanilla ice cream is crucial, do I? Do you need me to walk you through the merits of a mid-summer a la mode moment? The pleasures of a singular snowy scoop when everything else feels beyond your control? The visceral joy that—no. No, you don’t! Vanilla ice cream is universally beloved and widely understood to be crucial to our shared experience as a species.
So why did we have such a hard time finding one we all enjoyed at the supermarket?
In classic SE fashion, this team pulled together 10 brands of vanilla ice cream you're likely to find in your local supermarket and methodically, empirically, scientifically! tasted its way through them all in a quest to identify the very best. We went in thinking we all loved vanilla ice cream. We all left reeling, having eaten our way through 1) chunks of ice, 2) kids-birthday-party-cake-ish bites (the good kind, mostly), and 3) so much vanilla bean we felt gritty. This one was hard, y’all. There were very clear winners and very clear…not winners.
Let’s get into it.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Contenders* Ben & Jerry’s Vanilla * Friendly’s Vanilla * Edy’s Vanilla * Heritage Kulfi Vanilla Bean * Turkey Hill Original Vanilla * Breyers Natural Vanilla * Avenue A Vanilla Ice Cream * Ample Hills Just Vanilla, Please * Haagen-Dazs Vanilla Ice Cream * Van Leeuwen Vanilla Bean French Ice Cream
The CriteriaAs previously mentioned, vanilla ice cream is a gorgeous, simple pleasure and should be judged as such. We! want! simplicity!: a smooth, thick, lightly chewy, very creamy, minimally aerated base that scoops easily, a Real Vanilla taste (how that taste gets there is less important, but, sure, yeah, vanilla bean specks are nice), and no grease on the finish. A nearly finished bowl of truly good vanilla ice cream, if you ask us, should eat like a thin, chilled soup: You should be able to scrape every last bit off the bottom without feeling like you're drinking it. Oh! And please, god, no ice.
To measure all the above, we all ate from 10 scoops of ice cream—first plain, and then with sprinkles. The solo scoops allowed for the best gauge of color and standalone sweetness; the addition of sprinkles helped us contrast textures.
The RankingsBen & Jerry’s: 3.56/5Unanimously “oh, this eats correctly” from the group from bite one. It was thick, it was sweet, held its own to sprinkles, it could’ve beautifully gone atop anything else we’d had floating around that kitchen. It also was the only one that smelled exactly the right amount—the warm, happy vanilla aroma hit your nose just before the cold, happy vanilla ice cream hit your mouth. Vibes, but make it ice cream.
Häagen-Dazs: 3.08/5
This staff’s emotional connection to Häagen-Dazs should be clear by now: We are stans, we eat it regularly in our personal lives, we expect nothing but the best when we open a pint. We got pretty much that here. Everyone enjoyed the body of the ice cream: it didn’t melt nearly as quickly as most others, and there was a distinct creaminess to it that we found nowhere else. Jake just tanked this one because he didn’t think it smelled as heavily and pleasantly of vanilla as others in the tasting did.
Van Leeuwen: 2.92/5Interestingly, both Yasmine and Genevieve noted that Van Leeuwen’s take tasted to them “how vanilla ice cream is supposed to taste,” but they both phrased it as a question (“how vanilla ice cream is…supposed to taste?”). This scoop had a great, gentle chew and was very calming to look at and less aromatics to the face than the top two contenders. I’d paint nursery walls with this stuff and raise a very serene baby from that room, I’m sure.
Friendly’s: 2.44/5I, a lifelong Fribble stan, would recuse myself from this one, but there’s no need. Three out of five testers immediately felt transported to eating ice cream cake at a camp friend’s birthday party. The other two passingly enjoyed a vaguely vanilla, urgently melty dairy experience.
Breyers: 2.3/5 From here on out, these selections will fall into one or both of the following categories: “air” and/or “ice.” Breyer’s began us on an airy journey, one that went so quickly you barely realized you’d dipped a spoon into anything! Listen, the stuff is so fun to eat—it just doesn’t feel like you’re eating too much of anything. Sprinkle mountain highly recommended here. Who wouldn’t like a pile of vanilla-slicked-and-scented sprinkles at the tail-end of a meal? Oh, and wait!! It looks like Cookies & Cream? Not a con, but unnerving in this context all the same.
Avenue A: 2.18/5More air! “Light” and “fluffy” appeared a few times across our collective notes. But the aeration felt more significant than Breyers’ and the smell skewed more artificial. My immediate reaction was to compare it to Cool Whip. I actually don’t know that I’d be able to tell the two apart.
Heritage Kulfi: 2.12/5Et voila: the ice! Chewing was audible, flavor was mild. The combination of those two things detracted from a pretty-as-a-picture scoop we all felt optimistic at first glance. Of course, this ice cream didn’t melt nearly as quickly—it held its own 10+ minutes past nine other pints’ transformation into puddles. Kulfi for the hottest summer days, perhaps!
Turkey Hill: 2.1/5 Turkey Hill’s ice cream smelled so nice. We all wanted it to be a perfect-accompaniment-to-pie-type scoop, but it melted so quickly that it never stood a chance. Genevieve also noted a distinct greasiness to the bite, despite enjoying the aroma so much. Even so, it didn’t taste bad!
Ample Hills: 2.08/5 OK, Ample Hills was neither airy nor icy, but it also…did not taste like vanilla ice cream? To any of us? I wrote: “Almond??” Jake wrote: “Malt??” Yasmine wrote “Amaretto?” Daniel wrote: “No. What is this??”
Edy’s: 2.06/5 Big extract energy. That’s all!
Our Tasting MethodologyAll taste tests are conducted completely blind and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample 1 first, while taster B will taste sample 6 first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria that vary from sample to sample. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation of actual results possible.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf there’s one thing I can do to set myself up for success during the week, it’s making a big batch of vinaigrette and prepping an assortment of vegetables so I can quickly toss together a salad for lunch. Though I enjoy heftier dressings like ranch, Caesar, or French, spring’s arrival means I’m looking for something lighter and brighter—like a classic vinaigrette such as this one made with champagne vinegar—to pair with fresh green produce like asparagus, leeks, green garlic, and fava beans. But is there really a difference between a vinaigrette made with champagne vinegar and one made with white wine vinegar? What is champagne vinegar, anyway? And how often is champagne vinegar actually made from champagne?
What Is Champagne Vinegar?Wine vinegars, including champagne vinegar, are made by exposing alcohol to oxygen and allowing the bacteria Acetobacter to convert the alcohol into acetic acid. In the United States, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) mandates that all vinegars must be at least 4% acetic acid, though vinegars generally range from 4 to 8%. “It takes three ingredients to make vinegar: an alcoholic liquid, oxygen, and bacteria of the genus Acetobacter or Gluconobater, mainly A. pasteurianus and A. aceti,” notes Harold McGee in his book On Food and Cooking.
For vinegars made in the traditional Orléans style, where the wine is left to ferment and oxidize in the barrel, this process can take several weeks, months, or even years. According to Michael Harlan Turkell, the author of Acid Trip, most large-scale vinegar producers today rely on acetators, stainless steel tanks that “pump oxygen through the liquid to promote faster fermentations into vinegar,” which can produce vinegar in as quickly as a few hours or days, though often at the cost of quality.
Vinegars are often labeled according to what kind of alcohol is used to produce them: white wine vinegar, red wine vinegar, sherry vinegar, etc. But what to make of vinegars sold as "champagne" vinegar? Are we meant to assume the vinegar is made from actual Champagne? Or from any kind of sparkling wine regardless of whether it came from the Champagne region of France? Or is it an indication that specific grape varietals have been used? True Champagne must be made from one or more of seven varieties of wine grapes, including pinot noir, chardonnay, and pinot meunier. Even that is confusing, as there's a type of table grape also sold as a "champagne" grape that isn't used in Champagne wine production. Is wine from the table grape what this vinegar is made from?
In the United States, commercial vinegar products are regulated by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB). To find out more about how (and even if) champagne vinegar is regulated, I called the TTB one day to ask if there were any rules surrounding how champagne vinegar is made, sold, and marketed. "That's illegal," the rep I spoke to said in response to my question, insisting in a haze of regulatory confusion that champagne vinegar is itself a banned product.
I pushed back, explaining that it's a common ingredient sold in grocery stores across the country. After that we went back and forth, with the rep telling me she didn’t think it was possible for champagne vinegar to exist and that she didn’t think the TTB regulated vinegar (even though their website plainly states that it does) and me trying over and over to clarify that it does exist and my question is rather about any rules governing it. Eventually she redirected me to another office where my call went straight to voicemail.
After that I gave up on getting an answer from those tasked with regulating the product, and my question remained: Is "champagne" vinegar a meaningful term at all?
“With champagne vinegar, it’s important to note that for every excellent product, there are just as many ‘champenoise’-style shams,” says Turkell. “Unlike the protected designation of origin (PDO) wines from France’s Champagne region, champagne vinegar can be made anywhere in France [and across the world], and therefore varies drastically in quality.”
To see if there was truly a difference in flavor between fancy-feeling champagne vinegar and its more casual cousin white wine vinegar, I made two batches of vinaigrette: one with each kind of vinegar, both from the same brand. The difference was barely noticeable. (I actually thought the white wine vinegar had a more balanced flavor profile: it was ever so slightly sweeter and less acerbic.)
The real difference in flavor emerged when I compared a vinaigrette made with a higher quality champagne vinegar made in the Orléans style against another vinaigrette made with a cheaper champagne vinegar found in my local grocery store. At 6% acidity, the Orléans-style vinegar had a smoother finish and was brighter and more well-rounded in flavor, while the other vinegar, at 7% acidity, was sharper and more abrasive.
Ultimately, the real lesson here is that far more important than whether a vinaigrette is made from "champagne" vinegar or a vinegar from some other white wine base is the quality of the vinegar itself. Which is to say, the below recipe is for a champagne vinaigrette, and it calls for champagne vinegar, but you really can use any white wine vinegar you want, preferably a good one.
Do You Have to Emulsify Vinaigrette?Okay, you don’t have to do anything. But if crisp, well-dressed salad greens are what you’re after, then emulsifying your vinaigrette is a must. “At its most basic,” Kenji writes, “an emulsion is what you get when you force two things that don’t easily mix to form a homogeneous mixture,” like oil and water, by using an emulsifying agent (or surfactant) like mustard or egg yolks. As Kenji discovered in his vinaigrette tests, emulsifying your salad dressing helps it “cling tightly to the leaves,” resulting in a more flavorful bite and greens that are less likely to wilt.
Going off Kenji’s findings, I used a ratio of three parts oil to one part vinegar, which he found resulted in the strongest emulsion. For my surfactant, I turned to mustard, which brings a pleasant tanginess that complements the honey’s sweetness. Feel free to whisk the dressing together or skip the extra dishes by doing it the Kenji way: shaking everything together in a jar or squeeze bottle.
In a medium bowl, whisk together champagne vinegar, Dijon mustard, honey, and salt. Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in the vegetable oil followed by the olive oil until vinaigrette is emulsified.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAlternatively, Make the Vinaigrette in a Jar or Squeeze Bottle: Combine all ingredients in a small jar or squeeze bottle. Seal container and shake vigorously until emulsified. Shake well before each use.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUse as desired on leafy salads, blanched vegetables, or as a sauce for steamed or roasted fish or poached chicken.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe vinaigrette can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 month. Shake well before each use.
Serious Eats / Sabrina JiangThe summer solstice isn't technically until late June, but Memorial Day is a harbinger of warmer weather, grilling season, and outdoor pizza ovens galore. (Plus, for many of us, a day off! Incredible!)
Memorial Day also ushers in…Memorial Day sales. Bet you weren’t expecting that at all based on the headline of this very article! In this day-off, discount spirit, we rounded up more than 20 of our favorite Memorial Day sales—including ThermoWorks, Weber, Anova, Ooni, and Solo Stove.
The Best WokNormally $70, Now $61
Our favorite flat-bottomed, carbon steel wok is heat responsive and beautiful—with a blue-black color. We also like its helper handle and wooden main handle that stayed cool to the touch. It’s easy to see why we’ve deemed it an essential piece of cookware.
Serious Eats / Tim ChinThe Best Instant-Read ThermometerNormally $100, Now $67.47 at thermoworks.com
With the code SHAREBBQ, you get a whopping 32% (!!!) off of the Thermapen ONE. (This is the lowest price we've seen it go for.) It's our favorite instant-read thermometer for a good reason: it's lightning fast, incredibly accurate, and comes with a range of handy features like an automatic backlight, a rotating screen, and auto on/off.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinA Phenomenal Air FryerNormally $130, Now $100
With a responsive touchscreen and roomy basket, it’s easy to see why this Cosori air fryer nearly nabbed the top spot in our review. We also really appreciated its extra-long power cord—a little usability feature that, surprisingly, can make a big difference! Just be sure to apply the $30 off coupon.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmOne of the Best Gas GrillsNormally $1,049, Now $899
If you’re looking for a versatile gas grill that cooks exceptionally well, is easy to use, and comes with Weber’s excellent customer service and reputation, there’s this Weber Genesis. It was one of our top picks after testing gas grills—and it’s 14% off.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe Very Best BlenderNormally $480, Now $409
Behold: the very best blender. It's been our favorite for years and years (since Kenji first reviewed it) and there's just no besting it. It has a tapered blender jar that effortlessly sucks ingredients down into its blades and it's no-frills, all power (featuring just a few controls knobs/switches).
Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesA Seriously Powerful Sous Vide MachineNormally $399, Now $265
Right now, our favorite splurge-worthy immersion circulator is considerably less splurgy (at this price, it's about the cost of the Breville Joule). In our tests, we found it to be incredibly powerful and fast. We also liked its intuitive on-board display.
Serious Etas / Russell KilgoreA Smokeless FirepitNormally $569, Now $340 at solostove.com
Starting May 17th (and through June 4th), Solo Stove is offering up to 45% off select fire pits. We’re big fans of the Solo Stove (and cooking on them!) and find them to burn exceptionally steadily and fairly smokelessly. And with the purchase of any Ranger, Bonfire, or Yukon, you get a free Mesa (a cute, tabletop firepit) with the code FREEMESA.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyOur Favorite Dish Drying RackNormally $85, Now $43
You can’t cook without cleaning up. And for the inevitable task of drying dishes, our favorite drying rack comes from KitchenAid. It’s very large, has sidewalls that keep dishes in place, and has a drain mat that you can remove for cleaning. Plus, it’s 39% off—a steal.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziA Really, Truly Fantastic Pizza OvenNormally $599, $480 at Ooni.com and Williams Sonoma
Ooni is having a Memorial Day sale (through May 29th) and some of our favorite pizza ovens are on sale. This includes the Ooni Koda 16 (we love its large, 20.5-inch opening), the Ooni Koda 12 (smaller, but still great), and the Ooni Karu 16 (pricier, but has a door for temperature regulation and a built-in thermometer).
Serious Eats / Stacy K. AllenOne of the Best Vacuum SealersNormally $135, Now $114
This vacuum sealer features double-seal technology that stood out in our tests: the seal held up over prolonged heat and cold applications. It also has built-in bag storage and a bag cutter, as well as a pulse setting.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayAn Excellent Cooler (with Wheels!)Normally $450, Now $365 at moosejaw.com
While we haven't formally reviewed this model, it's the wheeled version of one of our favorite coolers. And senior commerce editor Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm (hi, it's me!) has used and loved this cooler and notes how it's "way, way easier to move around than a standard Yeti cooler" and that its wheels are "super rugged." Get 20% off with the code CHEESEBURGER.
Serious Eats / Henry WortockAn Exceptionally Priced Dutch OvenNormally $529, Now $150 at surlatable.com
With taller walls and a slightly smaller cooking surface than our favorite Staub Dutch oven, this cocotte is a great, deeply discounted buy. All five shades of it are on sale on Sur La Table (though the deep-red Grenadine is $20 more).
Serious Eats / Will DickeyOne of Our Favorite Water BottlesNormally $40, Now $30 at amazon.com and hydroflask.com
After testing seven stainless steel water bottles, we named this one from Hydro Flask one of our favorites. We loved its wide mouth that made it easy to fill, its built-in straw, and its slim body that made it portable and allowed it to fit in a car cupholder. For Memorial Day, Hydro Flask is offering 25% site wide, which includes our favorite water bottle (note: Hydro Flask has it in just two colors, while Amazon offers it in six).
Serious Eats / Grace KellyOne of the Best Ice Cream MakersNormally $500, Now $400 at amazon.com and Williams Sonoma
This ice cream maker is our favorite splurge-worthy model. It has a built-in compressor that chills the ice cream base (no having to pre-freeze the canister) and 12 hardness settings. It even chimes like an ice cream truck when the ice cream's finished churning!
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThe Best Boning KnifeNormally $110, Now $76
This super-flexible boning knife aced our tests. It sliced, it trimmed, it glided! Plus, it has a dimpled handle that adds a bit of pizzaz.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerA Compact Espresso KnockboxNormally $25, Now $22
While this is only a few bucks off, it's the lowest price we've seen our favorite compact espresso knock box go for in a long time. It's so nicely compact it even fits on an espresso machine's drip tray when not in use.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubA Beautiful, Speckled Dinnerware SetNormally $200, Now $160 at walmart.com
This slightly speckled dinnerware set is beautiful and crowd-pleasing, with a stamped “Staub” logo on the tops of the plates and sides of the bowls. The set comes with four dinner plates, salad plates, and bowls.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmSplurge-Worthy, On-Sale Oven MittsNormally $40, Now $25
Some of our favorite oven mitts are on sale and are a whopping $15 off. They have magnets for hanging and extra-long cuffs. (Note: the Paprika color is the most discounted, while the other colors are just $5 off the original list price.)
Serious Eats / Jenny KellerhalsA Powerful, Compact Pizza OvenNormally $400, Now $320 at ooni.com
The Ooni Koda 12 is gas-powered and capable of cranking out pies in a minute and 30 seconds. As we explained in our review, it also heats up wicked fast and has legs that fold for easy storage.
Serious Eats / Stacy K. AllenAn Expert-Recommended Coffee MakerNormally $40, Now $32
For brewing one cup of coffee at a time, we really like the Aeropress. It's lightweight, making it as equally good for traveling as it is at-home use. Plus, it's versatile. "Because it’s designed around a filter cap, a chamber, and a plunger, it can make espresso-style coffee, plunger-assisted drip coffee, and even brew immersion-style coffee—just flip it upside down," we explained here.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe Best French PressNormally $99, Now $84 at seattlecoffeegear.com
For Memorial Day, Seattle Coffee Gear is offering 10% sitewide through the weekend with the code WEEKEND10. This includes our favorite French press from Fellow. It has a sleek, matte black exterior, an insulated stainless steel body that keeps coffee hot, and a weighted handle for seamless pouring. It even comes with a wooden spoon for agitating grounds mid-brew!
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezFAQsWhen is Memorial Day?Memorial Day is on May 29th, 2023.
Are there Memorial Day sales?Yes! There are plenty of sales through the weekend and on Memorial Day—including all of the ones above (grills, coolers, pizza ovens). We will keep updating this document as we find worthwhile deals.
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezBreville's espresso machines are some of most streamlined models out there; it's the reason so many have taken top honors in our reviews. They're easy to use. They make it a cinch to pull great shots. They're relatively affordable compared to many, many other espresso machines on the market. What's not to like? And, right now, some of our favorite Breville espresso machines are on sale—time to get brewing.
Breville Bambino Plus Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezTo buy: Breville Bambino Plus was $500, now $400 at amazon.com and breville.com
Why we love it: The Bambino Plus delivers precision temperature control and automatic milk frothing, and it heats up in just three seconds (!!). While we were amazed at the number of features it offered in such a small machine, when we tested it, we were even more impressed with the quality of the espresso shots it pulled. It’s a great machine for beginners learning the ropes, but we also think it’s a stellar option for anyone who wants to make good espresso at home (and who doesn’t want to break the bank). Just don’t forget to grab an espresso grinder, too.
Good to Know Dimensions: 8 x 13 x 12 inches * Weight: 11 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 54 millimeters * Capacity: 1 liter * Warranty: 2-year limited warranty * Comes with:* 54mm tamper, precision dosing tool, 16 fl.oz / 480ml stainless steel milk jug, 1- and 2- cup single wall and dual wall filter baskets, cleaning tool, cleaning disc
Breville Barista Express Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezTo buy: Breville Barista Express was $750, now $600 at amazon.com and breville.com
Why we love it: The Barista Express's built-in grinder makes home espresso even easier. While we haven't officially tested it yet, it's a pared-down version of the Barista Pro and has the same precision temperature control as the other Breville machines. On sale it costs less than the Bambino Plus paired with our favorite espresso grinder, making it a great pick for the budget-conscious.
Good to Know Dimensions: 12.5 x 13.8 x 15.9 inches * Weight: 27 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 54 millimeters * Capacity: 1.9 liters * Warranty: 2-year limited product warranty * Comes with:* 54mm tamper, precision dosing tool, 16 fl.oz / 480ml stainless steel milk jug, 1- and 2- cup single wall and dual wall filter baskets, cleaning tool, cleaning disc
Breville Barista ProSerious Eats / Ashley RodriguezTo buy: Breville Barista Pro was $850, now $680 at amazon.com and breville.com
Why we love it: If you like the idea of the Barista Express but want more control, the Barista Pro comes with a customizable interface that lets you program the amount of coffee it dispenses. We really appreciated the ability to fine-tune your shots with its timed coffee dosing feature and an easy-to-read display. It’s a great upgrade to the Barista Express and, while on sale, is only a few dollars extra. It also features the same fast-heating boiler that the Bambino Plus does.
Good to Know Dimensions: 13.9 x 13.5 x 16 inches * Weight: 20 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 54 millimeters * Capacity: 1.9 liters * Warranty: 2-year limited product warranty * Comes with:* 54mm tamper, precision dosing tool, 16 fl.oz / 480ml stainless steel milk jug, 1- and 2- cup single wall and dual wall filter baskets, cleaning tool, cleaning disc
Breville Barista Express ImpressSerious Eats / Jesse RaubTo buy: Breville Barista Express Impress was $900, now $720 at amazon.com and breville.com
Why we love it: We really loved the assisted tamping lever and automatic coffee portioning of the Barista Express Impress for one big reason: it automates the trickiest parts of pulling a shot. Though it’s a little pricier, it’s a great option for anyone brand new to espresso who wants tasty coffee at home without having to learn new techniques.
Good to Know Dimensions: 13 x 15 x 16 inches * Weight: 24 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 54 millimeters * Capacity: 2 liters * Warranty: 2-year repair or replacement limited warranty * Comes with:* 480ml stainless steel milk jug, 1- and 2- cup single and dual wall filter baskets, Water filter holder with filter, precision trimming tool, cleaning tablets, allen key, steam wand cleaning tool, cleaning disc, cleaning brush, descale powder
FAQsHow long is the Breville espresso machine sale happening?Breville’s espresso machine sale ends on May 15th, giving you a week to shop their deals.
Is it worth getting a Breville espresso machine?We really like Breville espresso machines for a few reasons: they’re easy to use, they make great coffee, and they’re fairly affordable. While they’re mostly made from plastic and aren’t as sturdy as some of the heavy-duty home machines on the market, they’re well-built and come with a 2-year warranty. We think they’re an excellent option for beginners or people with some espresso experience who just want an easy-to-use espresso machine.
Serious Eats / Julie BangMatcha originated in China between the seventh and 10th centuries and spread to Japan via Buddhist monks, where it became an integral part of Japanese tea ceremonies (and still is today). It shouldn’t be confused with green tea, though. Because while the two varieties share some similarities (they both come from the same species of plant, for example), matcha tea leaves are grown under shade and milled to a fine powder that is whisked directly into the beverage rather than steeped.
Michelle Cheng, the founder of Ceremony café and tea house in Providence, Rhode Island, says that her favorite thing about matcha “is the focus it’s able to provide me, without the consequences of a caffeine crash you would typically experience from drinking coffee.” She isn’t the only one. Matcha’s ability to instill both calmness and focus, paired with its sweet, grassy flavor, has allowed it to remain a global favorite for nearly a thousand years.
How Is Matcha Made?Serious Eats / Vicky WasikAlmost all high-quality matcha is produced in Japan—particularly in and around Uji, which is south of Kyoto. It’s made with leaves from the Camellia sinensis plant, which is the same one that produces all tea leaves. What sets matcha apart is how it's produced. Tea plants are shaded in the final weeks of growing, which causes the plants to produce more chlorophyll and L-theanine (an amino acid that lends a prized umami flavor to the tea). The thoroughness and length of the shading can have a big impact on quality: plants that are shaded for longer will have a more intense green color and mild, sweet flavor.
When it’s time to harvest, the farmers pick only the newest leaves at the top as they have the least bitterness (more on this later). The leaves are steamed to stop the oxidation process and preserve their color (as opposed to black tea, which is allowed to fully oxidize) and dried. The veins and stems are removed—creating a type of tea called tencha—then the leaves are finely ground using a stone mill. After all of that, we have matcha in its final form.
How Is Matcha Prepared for Serving?Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThere are two traditional ceremonial matcha preparations: usucha and koicha. Usucha is known as thin matcha. It is prepared by stirring sifted matcha in a wide bowl (called a chawan) with a bamboo whisk (a chasen) to create a frothy tea that can be sipped directly from the chawan. Koicha is the more formal version that uses half of the water and doubles the amount of matcha powder. Matchaeologist compares koicha’s consistency with melted chocolate or honey. The ratios can vary based on preference, but a good starting place is two grams of matcha to two fluid ounces of water for usucha and four grams of matcha to four fluid ounces for koicha. Both methods use hot (but not boiling) water, although lukewarm or cold water can be used to bring out other flavors from the powder.
Obviously, these are not the only ways to prepare matcha. Many matcha drinkers prefer to add ice, dilute it for a matcha americano, or use milk (dairy or plant-based) to make a matcha latte. Mixing it with soda water will also create a refreshing afternoon tonic. The chasen and chawan aren’t must-haves either. With practice, a bamboo whisk can be an excellent companion for making matcha with a creamy foam head, but a milk frother can achieve similar results fast and effortlessly. Our go-to method is straight-up shaking it with water to dissolve the clumps and produce a super-aerated froth.
Matcha is also widely used in cooking and baking, especially for snacks and desserts. It can be substituted for espresso and cocoa in tiramisu or added to pastries, cookies, and cakes. Ice cream is another common application. The tea powder is often used directly in the ice cream base itself to churn out vibrant green scoops, but Cheng recommends making a thick koicha-style paste to pour over the top of vanilla ice cream for an affogato-style treat.
Ceremonial vs. Culinary Grade: What’s the Difference?Matcha is often labeled under two categories: ceremonial grade and culinary grade. “Ceremonial grade means the tea is qualified to be served in a tea ceremony service,” says Cheng, who was born and raised in China. It tends to be made from the earliest leaves harvested in springtime. They are the sweetest and most delicate, as they are the first to grow after the tea plant spent the previous winter storing nutrients. These matcha varieties are also the most vivid green and have a smooth flavor with the least amount of bitterness. Ceremonial matcha is ground very fine to make it better for drinking in traditional preparations.
Culinary grade matcha is usually duller in color than ceremonial, as it comes from more mature leaves that weren’t shaded well during growing or were harvested later in the season. It is also more bitter and astringent than ceremonial grade matcha, with fewer nuances. It might be easy to write off culinary-grade matcha, but it does have its value. The more robust flavor is better for cooking, baking, or smoothies. Plus, it’s usually half (or a quarter) the price per gram compared to ceremonial and is available in larger quantities.
Don’t get too hung up on grading while shopping for matcha, though. There are no actual regulations around what makes the powder this grade or that, so it is up to the producer to decide what they think is worthy of the increased price point (spoiler alert: some take advantage of this fact). Also, most higher-quality Japanese matcha shops use the grading only for Western reference or eschew it all together—like Ippodo Tea, which recommends matcha powders based on their flavor character, uses, and price.
The Criteria: What to Look for When Buying Matcha OnlineSince grading isn’t always a good indicator, buying matcha online can be overwhelming. As we mentioned, first-harvest tea leaves are preferable for traditional drinking preparations, while later harvests are set aside for cooking. Cheng advises online shoppers to seek matcha that is produced in Japan, particularly from Uji or Yame. She also suggests looking for powders that are pure green, without muddy hues. “Some cultivars are naturally lighter in color but are still very high quality, especially if it’s a single cultivar matcha that’s unblended,” she says. “Yellowish to brown [coloration] is a sign of oxidation, which results in poor-tasting matcha.”
Similar to wine, there are also single-cultivar matcha powders made from specific tea plant variations (deliberately cultivated for their growing or flavor characteristics) as well as single-origin styles that showcase the terroir of one region or estate. True matcha powder will only have one ingredient, so watch out for matcha latte mixes or sweetened powders. During our research, we found most everyday ceremonial/drinking-grade matcha powders cost around $0.80 to $1.25 per gram (single-cultivar and premium blends can be upwards of $2 per gram), while culinary-grade matcha tended to fall between $0.20 and $0.50 per gram.
While we are primarily highlighting online matcha brands below, Cheng also highly recommends NYC-based teahouse Setsugekka. It offers some matcha powders via its online store (she particularly likes the Ishikawa Organic Matcha and Yamenohana varieties). Ceremony, Cheng’s teashop, will also be opening an online store in the summer of 2023 where she hopes to share her favorite premium, ethically sourced matcha powders.
The Best Matcha Powders to Buy OnlineThe Best Matcha Blends: Ippodo TeaIppodo is widely praised by matcha lovers across the web, which makes sense for a shop that has been in the Japanese tea business for more than three hundred years. Its flagship store is in Kyoto, but it ships high-quality tea across the world. Shoppers can filter the matcha powders (which are sourced from the regions surrounding Kyoto and blended by the Ippodo team) by flavor character, uses, and type. Ippodo provides an abundance of information, including preparation methods, tasting notes, and suggested uses for each of the products. One thing you won’t find: grades. According to Ippodo, all of its blends are high-quality enough to drink on their own—even the Hatsu and Wakaki powders, which are suggested for baking. For beginners, Ippodo suggests the Horai blend, which is a “light-hearted” and smooth matcha for drinking traditionally or in lattes, while Ummon is a robust umami tea designed to be savored. For those just getting into the matcha world as well as seasoned matcha lovers, Ippodo Tea has an excellent range for every budget and taste preference.
Good to Know What Is Available: More than a dozen high-quality (i.e. ceremonial grade) matcha blends that can be used for koicha, usucha, lattes, and cooking, plus to-go packets, uji-shimizu (sweetened matcha), starter kits, and other tea-making tools. * Matcha Price Range: Starts at $0.25 per gram for matcha recommended primarily for baking; $0.60 per gram and up for drinking matcha. Bulk sizes (with lower costs per gram) are available for some blends. * Recommended Picks:* Hatsu for an all-purpose drinking, lattes, and baking blend ($10 for 40 grams), Horai for newcomers ($19 for 20 grams), and Ummon for a rich sipper ($30 for 20 grams).
The Best, Most Versatile Matcha: GoldeThis simple, elegant ceremonial-grade matcha powder is a fantastic all-rounder: it plays well in hot or iced preparations. Grown in the Uji Province of Japan, it is everything we like in a good matcha: delicately earthy and grassy, buttery, and with a hint of sweetness.
Good to Know What Is Available: Ceremonial matcha in either a tin or a pouch, as well as start kits. * Matcha Price Range: $28 for a 40 gram tin, or $42 for a 100 gram pouch. * Recommended Picks:* You can’t go wrong with Golde’s ceremonial tea, which is a great option for daily matcha drinks, either iced or hot.
The Best Single-Origin Matcha: MatchafulMatchaful was founded by Hannah Habes with the goal of importing sustainable, high-grade matcha directly from Japan. As part of its Farm-to-Whisk program, Matchaful works with a fourth-generation farm that shades its pesticide-free tea plants using solar panels (the energy from which benefits nearby towns). While its lineup includes ceremonial and culinary blends, the single-origin collection is where this brand shines. The Hikari Single Origin Matcha powder offers a “creamy palette with tasting notes of walnut, lemon, and butter” and is sourced entirely from the solar-shaded estate in Shizuoka, Japan. For those wanting to experience a single cultivar, Kiwami Single Cultivar Matcha also comes from the Farm-to-Whisk estate and is made from the Okumidori tea variety. It’s known for its mellow floral sweetness. The limited reserve Asanoka Single Origin Matcha is another single-estate and single-cultivar pick (this time Asanoka leaves from the Kagoshima prefecture) with notes of nori and chestnut.
Good to Know What Is Available: Four ceremonial-grade matcha powders (plus one culinary-grade), matcha-infused snacks, and accessories. * Matcha Price Range: Starts at $1.17 per gram for ceremonial-grade powders. The culinary matcha is $38 for 80 grams. Bulk sizes (with lower costs per gram) are available for all of the single-origin varieties. * Recommended Picks:* Shizuoka-sourced Hikari Single Origin Matcha ($35 for 30 grams), Kiwami Single Cultivar Matcha for the Okumidori cultivar ($39 for 30 grams), and Asanoka Single Origin Matcha for its namesake cultivar ($48 for 30 grams).
The Best Affordable Matcha: Rishi Tea & BotanicalsRishi Tea was established in 1997 and sources organic matcha directly from tea farmers. Similarly to Ippodo Tea, Rishi has a wide range of price points and flavor profiles. Of course, they sell pricier matcha powders (like the creamy Tsuji San's Matcha Asahi, which goes for $55 for 30 grams), but Rishi has plenty of affordable options as well. The single-origin Ceremonial Matcha ($18 for 30 grams) offers a particularly welcoming entry point for beginners. It’s a blend of Saemidori, Okumidori, and Tsuyuhikari cultivars from Mount Kirishima in Japan. It has low astringency, which makes it good for traditional preparations as well as lattes. Rishi’s Everyday Matcha ($12 for 30 grams) comes at an even more affordable price. It has more bitterness and a robust flavor because it is a blend of first- and second-harvest leaves, but would be a good all-purpose pick for daily lattes, smoothies, and baking.
Good to Know What Is Available: About a dozen high- and mid-grade matcha powders for traditional and latte preparations, plus teaware * Matcha Price Range: Starts at $0.35 per gram for 30-gram tins. Bulk sizes are available for Barista and Teahouse blends. * Recommended Picks:* Everyday Matcha Tin for lattes and smoothies ($12 for 30 grams), Ceremonial Matcha for drinking daily ($18 for 30 grams), and Matcha Sticks for on-the-go ($16 for 16 single-serving sticks).
The Best Matcha for Lattes: MatchaBarBrothers Max and Graham Fortgang opened their MatchaBar location in Brooklyn in 2014. Although the physical location is now closed, MatchaBar has leaned into distributing its custom ceremonial and culinary matcha blends online. The sibling duo works with family farms in Kagoshima, Japan, and uses first-harvest tea leaves, even for their Culinary Matcha Powder. MatchaBar’s Ceremonial Grade Matcha Powder blend is the star of the show, though. While it’s good enough to be prepared in traditional usucha fashion, its earthy flavor lends itself especially well to hot and iced matcha lattes.
Good to Know What Is Available: A straightforward trio of culinary-grade, ceremonial-grade, and premium ceremonial-grade matcha powders, plus accessories like a starter kit and an electric whisk. * Matcha Price Range: The Culinary Matcha Powder is $25 for 100 grams and the Premium Blend is $35 for 30 grams. MatchaBar’s Ceremonial Grade Matcha Powder starts at $24 for 30 grams and is available in bulk sizes with lower prices per gram. * Recommended Picks:* The Ceremonial Grade Matcha Powder ($24 for 30 grams) is a great middle-ground choice for lattes, smoothies, tonics, and cocktails.
The Best Matcha for Baking and Cooking: Jade Leaf Matcha Jade Leaf’s mission is to sell organic matcha (sourced from a network of family farms in Japan) for a fair price. It offers ceremonial teahouse and artisanal tea master’s reserve blends for drinking, but its Organic Culinary Matcha is a top pick for cooking. This matcha is sourced from the Uji and Kagoshima regions and comes from second-harvest leaves. It’s super affordable, too: it starts at $0.33 per gram for a 30-gram container.
Good to Know What Is Available: Pure matcha powders including late-harvest “ingredient” matcha, second-harvest culinary-grade, and ceremonial-grade powder, as well as single-serve sticks, latte mixes, tea bags, and tea-making utensils. * Matcha Price Range: Starts at $0.67 per gram for ceremonial-grade matcha and $0.33 per gram for culinary matcha. Both are available in bulk sizes for an even better deal. * Recommended Picks:* The second-harvest Organic Culinary Matcha ($10 for 30 grams) balances flavor with affordability for cooking and baking. We would not recommend using any ingredient-grade matcha powders (Jade Leaf or otherwise), as they tend to have a bitter flavor and dull, brownish color.
The Best Splurge-Worthy Matcha: KettlKettl was founded by Zach Mangan (along with his wife, Minami) after he spent time traveling solo in Japan and experiencing fresh tea that was produced and sold hyper-locally. The brand focuses on its direct partnerships with growers and producers in rural areas of Japan. Since its start, Kettl has helped Michelin-starred chefs like Thomas Keller and Grant Achatz create thoughtful tea selections in their restaurants. In 2022, Zach Mangan published Stories of Japanese Tea: The Regions, the Growers, and the Craft as a deep dive into Japanese tea cultivation. Kettl is one of Cheng’s overall favorite matcha sources; she specifically calls out its house-milled varieties (which are ground on an imported stone mill at Kettl’s Brooklyn shop) as a splurge-worthy buy. At the time of writing, Kettl is grinding from the 2022 growing season, which includes the top-notch 2022 House Milled Grand Prize Garden Asahi Matcha ($95 for 10 grams). This matcha comes from a number one prize-winning crop of tencha tea leaves and has notes of rich umami cocoa. Kettl also has a Mill Club Subscription where koicha-worthy teas from top producers are freshly milled and sent to your door for $60 a month.
Good to Know What Is Available: A rotating selection of expertly-sourced matcha powders for traditional preparations. Kettl also sells matcha-infused chocolate bars and teaware including bowls and whisks. * Matcha Price Range: Starts at $0.99 per gram for 20-gram tins. * Recommended Pick:* With the Mill Club Subscription, you get a milled-to-order batch of premium matcha powder for $60 a month.
The Best Coldbrew Matcha: Breakaway MatchaAccording to its website, Breakaway Matcha creates tea with the “five tell-tale signs of great matcha: maximum umami, electric color, intoxicating aroma, dreamy frothability (achieved through traditional granite grinding mills), and a long, stunning finish.” It’s worth perusing the selection of “hyperpremium” powders and gift-able flight boxes (like the $36 Intro Flight, which includes four grams each of four popular blends). What sets Breakaway apart, though, is its matcha powders that are uniquely well-suited for brewing in icy cold water. The cold brew matcha comes in three categories: Original, Organic, and Reserve. The original is capable of a sweet foamy crema, while the organic is described as “edgy, clean, and snappy.” The Uji-sourced reserve powder has “aromas of baby vegetables, pea tendrils, and new grasses,” making it both refined and refreshing.
Good to Know What Is Available: About a dozen and a half obsessively sourced “hyperpremium”, cold brew, and culinary-grade matcha powders, plus accessories and gift sets. * Matcha Price Range: The ceremonial-grade matcha starts at $0.96 per gram, while the culinary grade starts at $0.39 per gram. Bulk sizes (with lower costs per gram) are available for all of the matcha powders. * Recommended Picks:* The Coldbrew Original Matcha, Coldbrew Organic Matcha, and Coldbrew Reserve Matcha powders ($29, $35, and $39 for 30-gram bags, respectively) are all good for daily iced matcha, while the Single-Serve Coldbrew Original Matcha sticks ($19 for a 10-pack) are good for traveling.
The Best Flavored Matcha: Chamberlain CoffeeIf you’re more of a casual matcha imbiber, flavored matcha might be up your alley. And you don’t need to make homemade fancy syrups (though if you want to, all the power to you!) to try some fun flavor combinations: enter Chamberlain Coffee, which sells a flavored matcha variety pack comprising of original (e.g. unflavored), vanilla, and mango. We have to say, an iced mango matcha latte sounds very refreshing and summery.
Good to Know What Is Available: Since this is a coffee purveyor primarily, there are limited matcha offerings: plain, mango, vanilla, or a pack of all three. * Matcha Price Range: The set of three flavored matchas will run you $55 for two 30-gram and one 40-gram tins. * Recommended Picks:* For the adventurous, try the variety pack (it would also make a great gift).
Expert Pick: Setsugekka Michelle Cheng of Ceremony Tea in Providence, Rhode Island, recommends Setsugekka matcha. The company just reopened its online store and also has an IRL location in East Village, NYC if you want to experience a tea ceremony or tea lesson in person.
Good to Know What Is Available: A variety of matcha from different regions of Japan, each showcasing the terroir of its origin. Cheng recommends the Ishikawa Organic Matcha and Yamenohana varieties. They also sell bamboo whisks for making matcha, as well as gift cards. * Matcha Price Range: $18 to $165, depending on the match and quantity. * Recommended Picks:* Ishikawa Organic Matcha is a great all-rounder for drinking, as well as the Yamenohana which showcases the bitter and umami qualities of matcha.
FAQsWhat is matcha?Matcha is a finely ground powder made from green tea leaves. It originated in China during the Tang Dynasty (which spanned from the seventh century to the 10th century) and spread to Japan in 1191. The highest quality matcha is made from young tea leaves that have been grown under shade, resulting in a powder that is vibrant green and delicately sweet.
How is matcha different from green tea leaves?Matcha is made from the same type of plant as green tea (Camellia sinensis), but matcha is shaded during the final weeks of growing. This increases the chlorophyll production in the tea leaves, which produces a more intense green color and flavor. After harvesting, both matcha and green tea are steamed (to halt the oxidation process) and dried. Matcha is then ground into a fine powder, which is prepared by fully mixing it into the water (rather than steeping, like green tea).
Does matcha have more caffeine than coffee?Matcha has approximately 19 to 45 milligrams of caffeine per gram. An average serving contains one to two grams of matcha powder, so that’s between 40 and 90 milligrams depending on the quality of the matcha and how it is prepared. That’s more than most teas but less than coffee. An 8-ounce cup of brewed coffee contains 95 milligrams of caffeine on average, while a double shot of espresso has about 120 milligrams.
Is matcha healthy?There isn’t definitive research on whether drinking matcha has specific and consistent health benefits. As long as you are not sensitive to caffeine or frequently loading it up with sugar, matcha can be a safe and nutritious drink to add to your day. It is high in antioxidants, which can (moderately) help prevent cell damage in the body. Matcha also contains L-theanine, an amino acid that has been argued to meter the effects of caffeine, reduce stress, and improve focus and cognitive function (although, again, the research is not totally conclusive).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI remember the day my mom came home with our family’s first blender. My sisters and I gathered around her as she unboxed the machine on our kitchen counter, curious to see what the fuss was about. The blender, a white, plastic Philips model, was the most advanced piece of equipment in our kitchen at the time—it was Hong Kong in the 1990s and we didn’t even have an oven. We watched her assemble the blender and proceed to whizz together the only smoothie she knew how to make: a creamy strawberry-banana one that tasted more like a milkshake than a breakfast drink. Despite now owning a blender, my mom never changed it up. The only two things she used the blender for? Milkshakes—and smoothies that tasted like milkshakes.
Though I have since expanded my smoothie repertoire, my mom’s strawberry-banana smoothie remains a nostalgic and comforting favorite of mine. It’s not hard to see why she loved it so much: her version had just three ingredients and was an easy snack to whizz up for her three annoyingly loud and needy daughters.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOver the years, I’ve tweaked it ever so slightly by swapping fresh berries for frozen and adding a tablespoon of strawberry jam. Frozen berries are picked and preserved at their peak when they’re ripest, and provide a burst of concentrated strawberry flavor better than most fresh fruit can throughout the year. The jam adds to that strawberry intensity even more. The banana, meanwhile, helps to thicken the smoothie, while whole milk lends richness. Paired with the frozen strawberries and jam, the resulting beverage tastes like a sippable version of strawberries and cream. Is it dessert or breakfast? You decide.
Combine frozen strawberries, milk, banana, and strawberry jam in a blender. Pulse a few times to break up the fruit, then blend on high speed until completely smooth, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentBlender
NotesFeel free to substitute with dairy-free milk if desired.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerGas stoves have long been the kings of the kitchen. The “tik-tik-tik” before a gas burner flares to life is instantly recognizable. These stoves have a reputation for being powerful, controlled, and, well, downright chef-y. They’ve been the top choice for more than a century, spurred on by industry-fueled slogans like, “Now we’re cooking with gas!” Recently, though, research about how gas stoves can affect our health and contribute to greenhouse gas emissions has led many (including me!) to question this loyalty.
Before doing this review, I had cooked with induction a handful of times. I knew that higher-end induction burners could be ultra-precise and cook at a wide range of temperatures, but I wasn’t sure how more affordable household countertop models (which are great for small spaces and anywhere you might want an extra cooking zone) could perform. To find out, I tested seven portable induction burners priced between $70 and $230. Six of them were single-burners, and one had a double-burner cooktop. All of the models topped out at 1800 watts of power, although I found that each one varied in actual efficiency. The winning induction cooktops were intuitive to cook with, had easy-to-use interfaces, and could heat quickly and accurately.
After using these cooktops to boil, fry, sear, and simmer, I found that induction is not only safer and more sustainable, but it can go head-to-head with gas (and electric) burners in terms of performance—and win hands-down.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Duxtop 9100MC had the best scores in both performance and ease of use throughout each test. It was the fastest to boil water, maintained long simmers well, and was intuitive to adjust while cooking.
This burner was a close runner-up to the Duxtop 9100MC and excelled in many of the same areas during testing. It was great at keeping the cooking heat steady throughout every task and had 12 different temperature levels that could be set in Fahrenheit or Celsius.
This sleek induction burner may not come with as many features as some other models that were tested, but its efficiency and straightforward user interface made it a capable companion for most cooking tasks.
How Does Induction Work?Induction heating is caused by passing an electric current through a (usually copper) wire coil, which creates an electromagnetic field. On an induction stove, the coil is mounted beneath a glass surface, which becomes the cooktop. When an induction-compatible pan is set on the cooktop, the electromagnetic energy in the coil induces a current in the pan. This causes vibration on the atomic level within the metal of the pan, which creates friction. The friction generates heat directly in the cookware, which then cooks whatever food is inside. The burner is not actually generating any heat, just an electromagnetic field. All the heat is created within the pan itself, which must be ferromagnetic for this process to happen (in other words, induction-compatible cookware must contain iron and be able to attract a magnet). All cast iron (including enameled cast iron, like most Dutch ovens), carbon steel, and magnetic stainless steel pans are great partners for induction burners. For nonmagnetic stainless steel and other cookware, an induction interface disk can bridge the gap by providing a magnetic surface that sits on top of the burner and heats up similarly to a traditional electric burner. It allows you to continue using your favorite pots and pans, even if they aren’t magnetic. You can read more about induction, including its pros and cons, here.
A Bit About Portable Induction CooktopsPortable induction cooktops do all of the aforementioned in a small package. They’re good for people who want to try out induction cooking before committing to a whole stovetop, renters and college students, or those who just want the flexibility of an extra cooking area. The “portable” bit comes in handy, too, as you can set up a cook station outside to prevent smoking up your kitchen during a hot sear or the lingering odors that accompany deep-frying at home. Brady Seals—an expert in household energy who works at RMI, a nonprofit organization that is focused on global sustainability—says that she frequently uses her portable induction burner (along with a grill pan) on her balcony as an apartment-friendly, fossil-fuel-free alternative to grilling. Win, win, win.
The TestsSerious Eats / Ashlee Redger Flour Test: To test the heat distribution of each burner, I sprinkled a tablespoon of flour evenly over the surface of a large stainless steel skillet and set it to medium heat (using power settings, when possible). Without stirring or moving the pan, I observed where the flour browned to find the hottest area of the burner and timed how long it took to toast. * Boiling Water Test: I timed how long it took each burner to bring a gallon of room temperature water to a boil in a 4.5-quart Dutch oven. I used the burner’s Boil preset if it had one; if there wasn’t one, I used the highest power level. A special note here: I am at a high altitude in Denver, so my water boiled around 202°F. I used a probe thermometer to ensure accuracy. * Simmering Test: After boiling the water, I reduced it to a simmer to test each burner’s heat stability. Where possible, I tried to find the appropriate temperature setting to keep the water between 185 and 195°F (a simmer at my altitude) and marked how much the water fluctuated over an hour duration. * Scrambled Egg Test: I cooked a batch of soft-scrambled eggs in a medium nonstick skillet on each burner and judged how intuitively I was able to set it to medium-low heat (using power settings where possible). I also examined the responsiveness of the controls and the performance of the burner. * Seared Chicken Breast Test (Winners-Only): I used each of the top-performing burners to sear two chicken cutlets over medium-high power to test how intuitive it was to cook with, adjusting when needed. I noted how evenly each burner browned the cutlets and if it left the edges undercooked. * Onion Rings Test (Winners-Only): I deep-fried onion rings using the top-performing induction burners. I timed how long it took the oil to come up to 375°F and how well the burner recovered the temperature after adding the battered onions. I marked down burners that had trouble maintaining consistent heat or struggled to bring the oil up to the correct temperature to start. * Cleaning and Usability Tests:* Throughout all of the tests, I paid attention to how simple each burner was to use, how intuitive the heating levels were, and if it was easy to clean. I also noted if a burner felt durable or acquired marks and scratches during use.
What We LearnedPan Size Was Important for Even HeatingSerious Eats / Ashlee RedgerInduction burners were only great at heating the pan where it was in contact with the surface directly above its coil. If the pan was too small, the burner could not conduct an adequate current and wouldn’t heat up; if the pan was too large, it wouldn’t cook evenly around the edges. Most of the models I tested recommended pans with diameters between 4.5 and 10 inches (although the IKEA TILLREDA Portable Induction Cooktop suggested no pans larger than 7.9 inches).
For the flour test, I used a 12-inch stainless steel skillet that had a nine-inch base. While all of the induction burners could heat this pan (even the IKEA burner), I consistently saw 4- to 5-inch hot spots show up in the flour at the center of the pan. Without stirring the flour to redistribute the heat, the flour around the edges remained white and untoasted, regardless of the burner make. Even the winning cooktops had trouble heating the skillet during the seared chicken breast test, and left the chicken that was nearest to the rim pale. Comparatively, my mid-sized, 8-inch nonstick skillet (which had a five-and-a-half-inch base) had uniform, controlled temperatures during the scrambled egg test. For the most even heat, it’s best to match the pan diameter with the size of the cooking zone of the burner.
One more thing about even heating: empty pans should not be used on induction. Because the cookware can heat up almost instantaneously with induction heat, it can cause them to warp or become damaged from the sudden temperature changes. Having food inside helps to regulate and distribute the heat in the pan. While they come standard with safety shut-offs for overheating, induction burners also have a hard time detecting when a pan is too hot when there is nothing inside. An empty cast iron left on the Mueller RapidTherm Portable Induction Cooktop quickly rocketed upwards of 750°F within a minute and a half (according to an infrared thermometer) before its safety feature turned it off. Don’t try that at home—every burner warns against heating empty pans for this reason. A few seconds of preheating is all a pan needs when used on induction.
Although Wattage Was the Same, Efficiency VariedAs I mentioned before, all of the portable induction cooktops had a maximum of 1800 watts of power. Some were more efficient than others, though, which manifested as being slow to warm up or unable to cook at higher temperatures. The Caso Pro Menu Single Induction Burner, for example, was sluggish to cook with. It only had faint browning in its center after several minutes on medium heat during the flour test, and took 24 minutes to boil water (compared to the Duxtop 9100MC, which took 16). It was difficult for me to determine what actually caused certain burners to be less efficient than others, though, and the winning Duxtop was also fallible. During the onion ring test, the Duxtop 9100MC quickly heated the two quarts of peanut oil up to the required 375°F, but could not raise it any higher. Its counterpart, the Duxtop 9600LS, failed to ever reach 375°F, topping out at 350°F after nearly two hours of preheating. The IKEA and Hamilton Beach Portable Single Induction Cooktop both showed their potential in that test, though, and could easily surpass the 375°F oil temp if on full heat. For the less efficient burners, modifications like using a smaller pot or cooking in reduced batch sizes could have helped maintain their power.
Temperature and Power Levels Had Distinct PurposesSerious Eats / Ashlee RedgerA majority of the portable burners I tested included power and temperature options for managing heat levels. A power setting corresponded to wattage being continually conducted into the pot (like turning the knob on a gas or electric stovetop), while a temperature setting represented a steady level of heat at the base of the cooktop surface (the burner will fluctuate wattage and on/off cycles to maintain this).
Temperature settings are not indicative of what’s going on inside the cookware, though. A burner on a 212°F temperature setting is probably not going to maintain a steady boil because not every bit of heat energy is absorbed into the water (no matter how much more efficient induction is). During tests, I often found temperature settings unintuitive at first. The temperature setting needed changes depending on the food being cooked and the thermal conductivity of the cookware. It also changes from burner to burner. During the simmering test, the Mueller cooktop efficiently maintained a steady low simmer (around 185°F) at its temperature setting of 212°F. The Caso, on the other hand, had to be set over a hundred degrees higher at 340°F, even though I used the same amount of room temperature water and the same Dutch oven. With all of the burners that had temperature options, I tried to find the Goldilocks zone for hands-off simmering. It took extra time as I adjusted and waited for the water temperature to settle before making additional adjustments. Even though it required some trial and error, it was achievable in each of them. Over time, this would be easier and allow for more stable temperature maintenance, especially during long cooks.
Power settings were much more universally intuitive for most cooking tasks. If the power levels ranged from one to nine, for example, I could map out the numbers on a low-medium-high scale and start the scrambled egg test on a medium-low three. Every burner’s power settings were comparable in heat level using this method—except the Mueller, which only allowed temperature adjustments (and admittedly, I browned the eggs because I set the temperature too high on the first batch).
Presets Often Hindered Ease of UseSeveral of the burners I tested came with additional features like preset cooking shortcuts and timers to automatically shut off the heat. The Mueller used its presets as the starting place, forcing me to select from Hot Pot, Boil, Slow Cook, or Keep Warm before I could adjust the temperature setting up or down for what I needed. The presets also had automatic timers associated with them (Hot Pot and Boil were the same temperature setting with different timer lengths), which felt unnecessarily clunky.
The Duxtop 9600LS—not to be confused with the winning Duxtop 9100MC—also had Keep Warm and Boil buttons. I used the latter during the boiling water test. The preset turned the burner up to its highest power setting and set a 10-minute timer. That would have been plenty for a small pot of water, but the timer ran out and turned off the burner while the gallon I was boiling was at 156°F, eight and a half minutes before it actually came to a boil (a big flaw if you were using the water to boil pasta, for example). The process for changing the Duxtop 9600LS’s timer took at least 10 to 20 seconds and several extra button presses. Combined with all the taps needed to adjust settings while cooking, the additional time and button presses started to add up. After that, I found myself manually setting the heat level without the presets and keeping a separate timer for check-ins, skipping the automatic shut-off if I didn’t need it (which I rarely did).
The Hamilton Beach had a unique preset that no other model had: a Booster button. When pressed, it would turn the heat up to maximum power for 30 seconds, before returning to the previous setting. Since induction is so responsive to heat adjustments, this short surge of power didn’t have an obvious use for me and seemed more like a shortcut for burning whatever is in the pan. The touch sensor button was also easily activated by accident, which happened multiple times throughout testing.
Overall, I found the more buttons and features that crowded an induction burner’s user interface, the harder it was to operate. At their best, extra features can be occasionally useful—like a timer for long simmers. At their worst, presets meddle with the cooking process by suddenly turning off the heat or blasting a pan with high temperatures. The minimalist IKEA induction cooktop was the simplest and most efficient burner of the lineup, with Lock being the only function other than power adjustments (locking the burner would freeze the power setting in place while cooking, or keep the burner from being turned on accidentally between uses). Not only was it effortless to learn how to use, but it was fast and intuitive to make adjustments while cooking, too.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Portable Induction CooktopSerious Eats / Ashlee Redger / Grace KellyThe most impactful characteristic of a portable induction cooktop was intuitiveness. Having predictable heat settings played into this, and power settings tended to be more beginner-friendly than temperature settings (although temperature settings can be a boon if you take the time to dial them in). A simple user interface also helped intuitiveness by making quick adjustments easier, especially while cooking. Preset buttons can be as much of a hindrance as a help. They allow shortcuts to certain settings, like high power for boiling, but often include drawbacks, like a timer that turns off the heat before cooking is done. For that reason, I preferred models without them as they were faster to operate and felt closer to traditional cooktops.
What we liked: This model had a straightforward user interface and intuitive power settings. It brought a gallon of water to a boil in 16 minutes (the fastest of the lineup) and had less than 5°F of fluctuation throughout an hour-long simmer. The control panel also had physical buttons rather than a touch sensor, so I was able to wipe up oil splatters while I cooked without fear of changing any settings.
What we didn’t like: While it had enough power to accomplish all of the tasks, it was at its max during the onion ring test. In order to keep the oil at 375°F for frying, I had to keep the burner on its highest power setting the whole time (it wasn’t efficient enough to get the oil any hotter than that). It didn’t have a problem heating up the large skillet for searing chicken, though, and modifications like using a smaller pot or less oil could help boost efficiency when needed. It lacked boil and keep warm shortcuts, so quick temperature changes required more button pushes. While I liked the physical buttons over a touch screen, the icons printed on them could wear out over time.
Price at time of publish: $78.
Key Specs Weight: 6 pounds * Dimensions: 14 x 11.3 x 2.8 inches * Burner diameter: 8 inches * Recommended pan diameter: At least 5 inches * Cord length: 55 inches * Surface weight limit: 25 pounds * Power level range: 15 settings from 200-1800 watts, in 100- or 200-watt increments. The power levels are labeled in half steps from 1 through 5.5, and whole numbers from 6 through 10. * Temperature level range: 15 settings from 140°F to 460°F, in 20- or 30-degree increments * Lock function?: No * Timer: 0 to 170 minutes, in one-minute increments. The burner will automatically stop cooking after two hours if the timer is not set and no buttons are pressed during that time. * Cleaning and care:* Once the burner has cooled, wipe its surface with a moist cloth. Mild liquid detergent can be used to clean grease and other stains. Do not use abrasive cleaners or materials on the cooktop, as they can damage it. Wipe dry after cleaning. If you’re not cooking with it regularly, cover the burner between uses to protect it from dust.
What we liked: This burner was a close runner-up to our overall winner. Although it took a little longer to boil water, it was the fastest and most efficient at heating oil for frying. It had great temperature stability during long cooking tasks and was intuitive to use.
What we didn’t like: The controls could be a little touchy, and I accidentally hit its Boost buton—a puzzling feature that turned the power up to max heat for 30 seconds—more than once during testing.
Price at time of publish: $70.
Key Specs Weight: 6.4 pounds * Dimensions: 14.25 x 11 x 2.5 inches * Burner diameter: 8.5 inches * Recommended pan diameter: 4 to 10 inches * Cord length: 45 inches * Surface weight limit: Not specified * Power level range: 10 settings, up to 1800 watts (actual wattage per power level not specified) * Temperature level range: 15 settings from 175°F to 450°F in 25-degree increments (can be adjusted to use Celsius) * Lock function?: No * Timer: 1 to 150 minutes, in one-minute increments (does not specify an automatic shut-off if the timer is not set) * Cleaning and care:* Wipe the cooled cooktop surface with a soft, damp cloth. Mild detergent may also be used if further cleaning is needed. Do not use abrasive cleaners or sponges.
What we liked: Although it was slightly smaller than the other models, the IKEA portable induction burner was a powerful machine. It had no issues getting pans super hot for searing and frying, but also easily cooked delicate soft-scrambled eggs at lower temperatures. The responsive touch controls were dead simple, too. There were only four buttons: Power, Lock, and Plus and Minus buttons for adjusting the heat. It is a good pick for small spaces (it has a hook for hanging it) and is great for those who want to minimize the induction learning curve.
What we didn’t like: IKEA recommends using pans between 4.7 and 7.9 inches in diameter on this burner—which could be limiting, especially if cooking for a family. It still heated my 12-inch skillet (which had a base diameter of nine inches), but didn’t evenly brown the chicken that was around the edges of the pan. It also isn’t as adept at hands-off temperature maintenance, as it only comes with power settings. It achieved a steady hour-long simmer without difficulty but kept overshooting the oil temperature during the onion ring test.
Price at time of publish: $70.
Key Specs Weight: 6.2 pounds * Dimensions: 12.8 x 10.6 x 2.5 inches * Burner diameter: 7 inches * Recommended pan diameter: 4.7 to 7.9 inches * Cord length: 55 inches * Surface weight limit: Not specified * Power level range: 9 settings from 200-1800 watts. The levels are numbered 1 through 9. * Temperature level range: This burner does not have temperature level options. * Lock function?: Yes * Timer: This model does not include a timer, but will automatically turn off if the power setting is not modified after two hours. * Cleaning and care:* Use a damp cloth and mild detergent to clean the cooking surface after it has cooled. Wipe dry after cleaning. Avoid using abrasive detergents or materials, as they can scratch the surface.
The Competition* Cuisinart Double Induction Cooktop: Cuisinart’s single induction burner was discontinued, so I looked at its double burner option instead. It took the longest to boil water (a full 10 minutes longer than the Duxtop 9100MC), but it had a nice interface and even heating. An important note, though: this model had the same wattage capabilities as the single burners. If you’re using both sides at once, the power could be limited as it's divided between the two. * Duxtop Portable Induction Cooktop 9600LS: The Duxtop 9600LS is highly rated online. It comes with features like a 10-hour timer, a touch sensor interface, and Boil/Keep Warm shortcuts. It has more heat settings than any other model (20 temperature and power levels each). It was more expensive than the overall winning Duxtop but wasn’t as fast or powerful as the 9100MC model during tests. It took a lot of button taps to operate, and it couldn’t heat the oil up to the temperature required in the onion ring test. After over an hour and a half of heating on the highest setting, the oil topped out at 350°F (the recipe called for 375°F), plus it had a hard time rebounding when the onion rings were added and the oil temp dropped. * Mueller RapidTherm Portable Induction Cooktop: This model was quick to boil and excellent at maintaining a simmer, but its interface forced the user to select one of the four presets (Boil, Hot Pot, Slow Cook, or Keep Warm) first before adjusting the heat as needed. The product boasts both power and temperature settings but only displayed (and allowed adjustments to) the temperature settings. There were big gaps between the settings (for example, there was no option between 140°F and 212°F), which made it difficult to achieve appropriate heat levels, especially at lower temperatures. * Caso Pro Menu Single Induction Burner: Caso’s induction burner had a streamlined look and handsome matte touch sensor panel, but it was sluggish to heat up and fluctuated a lot in temperatures during the simmering test (after a lot of trial and error to find the right level). The exhaust fans also made my countertops quite hot while on higher settings.
FAQsHow does induction work?Induction burners work by creating an electromagnetic field between the copper coil in the burner and the base of the cookware on top. This causes imperceptible vibration in the electrons of the pan’s base, which creates heat directly within the pan (the burner does not generate heat by itself). This means that the cookware itself is doing the cooking, and is therefore much more energy-efficient than traditional gas or electric burners.
What kind of cookware can you use with induction burners?Cookware must be ferromagnetic to be compatible with induction. In other words, the pot or pan must have strong magnetic attraction and contain iron. Cast iron (including enameled), carbon steel, and magnetic stainless steel pans are all induction-compatible. An easy test for determining induction compatibility is to hold a magnet to the base of the cookware. If the magnet is attracted securely to the bottom of the pot or pan, then it will work on induction.
What is a portable induction burner good for?Portable induction burners are great for people who want to try out induction before committing to a stovetop, renters, college students, and anyone who wants to have the flexibility of an extra burner. They can be used to set up cooking stations outside of a kitchen since they are just as powerful as a stovetop burner, in a compact package.
How do you clean a portable induction burner?You can clean your induction burner by wiping it with a damp, soft cloth. A little mild detergent can be added to the cloth for grease or other stains, and a dry towel will buff out any streaks after cleaning. Never use abrasive detergents or materials on your burner, as you may damage its surface.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerWith rising awareness about the risks of gas stoves, lots of home cooks are curious about induction. This method of cooking is not only touted as better for health and the environment, but many also claim it’s more efficient. But how does this seemingly magical way of cooking work? We learned a ton about induction cooking during our testing of portable induction burners. Here, we’ll be sharing what induction is, how it works, and its pros and cons.
What is Induction?Induction burners aren’t like gas or electric; they don’t actually heat up. Instead, they cause your pan to heat itself up. Weird, right? When you turn an induction burner on, an electric current runs through a metal coil beneath the glass surface, creating an electromagnetic field. This creates atomic-level vibrations in your pan, which causes friction and heats the pan from the inside out (some low-level physics lessons going on here). But not just any pan will do—it has to be magnetic, which means it needs some iron in it. Cast iron (obviously), magnetic stainless steel, and carbon steel skillets are all prime candidates, but we advise checking the manufacturer's specs if you’re buying a new pan and want to throw it on an induction cooktop (or you can check out our article on all of our favorite, induction-friendly cookware).
The ProsInduction Cooking Is EfficientInduction cooking is really, really efficient. Traditional electric hobs and gas flames lose energy (a.k.a. heat) as it dissipates onto the cooktop surface and the air around the element. It takes a while to heat up a pot or pan this way, and more energy to keep it hot. The US Department of Energy cites that induction cooking is 5 to 10% more efficient than conventional electric stovetops and three times (!) more efficient than gas. Since the cookware itself is doing the cooking during induction (and it heats up almost instantaneously), there are a lot fewer opportunities for heat to escape before it gets to the food.
It’s Better for Our Health and the EnvironmentBrady Seals, an expert in household energy who works at RMI, a nonprofit organization focused on global sustainability, has spent most of her career working specifically on sustainably-powered cookstoves. She said that about 38% of US households cook with natural gas, while 60% use it to heat their homes. Gas-powered appliances can be big contributors to air pollution, as they vent methane (a potent greenhouse gas) and carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.
Gas stoves in particular are known to leak methane, even when they’re turned off. “It isn’t a lot,” Seals says. “About 1% of the gas that’s delivered to the stove is leaking as unburned methane.” She cites a group of Stanford researchers, who estimate that if we added up all the leaked methane from gas stoves in the United States, it would show the same impact on our climate as about half a million cars on the road.
Gas-powered furnaces and water heaters are considered to be the biggest household polluters, and there are regulations requiring them to be vented outdoors. Gas stoves have no such universal requirements. In many areas, gas range hoods can circulate gasses like nitrogen dioxide, formaldehyde, and carbon monoxide back into the home, where they can build up over time and cause respiratory irritation. According to peer-reviewed research (co-authored by Seals), about 13% of childhood asthma can be attributable to gas stoves, which is on par with secondhand cigarette smoke.
Induction cooking is free of the combustion pollutants from gas stoves, making it a safer, and more environmentally-friendly option. Traditional electric cooktops are also a great option, although slightly less efficient than induction. For renters and people who can’t or aren’t ready to make the switch, a portable induction cooktop is a good option to reduce the time a gas stove is running, therefore reducing the overall amount of gas released into the environment (and our homes).
Induction Is ResponsiveSerious Eats / Ashlee RedgerInduction is a direct heating method, and the temperature of a pan directly corresponds to how much energy is being directed into it at any given time. Changing that energy by adjusting power or temperature levels creates an immediate response. A traditional electric stovetop can stay blisteringly hot for several minutes as heat dissipates from its burner components, whereas lowering the setting on an induction cooktop instantaneously cuts heat and produces a visible effect within a few seconds. It also heats pans up really quickly. As soon as power is turned on, the entire bottom of a pot will start producing heat immediately, instead of slowly absorbing it from a gas flame or electric zone. During testing, induction burners were able to get pans smoking hot in less than a minute, compared to four to five minutes on a gas range.
It’s Also Very SafeInduction burners come standard with a variety of features designed to prevent mishaps. Some induction models also have locking functions to prevent accidentally turning the machine on or changing settings, which can be helpful for homes with young children. Of course, no induction burners will heat anything unless there is an induction-compliant pan on top. The burner itself does become warm after use, but only from having a hot pan on top of it. During our tests, we found that all of the burners were cool enough to touch and handle within minutes of turning them off, even when they were on high heat. Since heat isn’t being radiated into the air as much as with gas or electric cooktops, pot handles also stayed cooler for longer (which could help prevent those burns that we’ve all gotten when taking something off of a scorching burner). Of course, don’t throw caution out the window. Both the cooktop and pot handles will still get hot during use, so have an oven mitt handy.
All induction burners are programmed to automatically shut off when the heat level gets too high, but it can be hard for a burner to accurately measure the temperature if the pan on top has nothing inside. During our tests, an empty cast iron left on the Mueller Rapid Therm Portable Induction Cooktop quickly rocketed upwards of 750°F within a minute and a half (according to an infrared thermometer) before its safety feature turned it off. Don’t try that at home—every induction burner warns against heating empty pans for this reason. Since induction is so fast and responsive, you only need to preheat a pan for a few seconds before adding food.
Induction Stovetops Are a Cinch to CleanLike smooth-top electric ranges, induction burners have a flat glass cook surface that’s a breeze to wipe down after use. They can be cleaned with a damp soft cloth, and a drop of mild detergent can be added for grease and occasionally stuck-on bits. A dry towel will buff out any remaining streaks.
The ConsThere Is a Learning CurveFor most of us, the hardest part of switching to induction after using gas or electric is getting used to a new system. Many induction burners include options for temperature settings as well as power settings, which can be confusing for traditional cooktop converts. Here’s the gist of it: power is (usually) a numbered setting that correlates to the low-medium-high scale of a traditional stove knob. Most burners will output a constant wattage based on the power setting.
Temperature settings, on the other hand, will try to maintain a certain level of heat at the base of the cooktop’s surface (not the temperature of the pan or its contents). For example, an induction burner set to 212 degrees would fluctuate the wattage and pulse on/off cycles to try to keep its cooktop surface at a steady 212°F. Whatever is happening inside the pan at that point is dependent on the cookware that’s used, the amount and type of food being cooked, and the specific burner’s efficiency at maintaining that heat.
You Need Induction-Compatible CookwareSerious Eats / Ashlee RedgerAs mentioned before, pots and pans must have a magnetic base to work with induction. An easy way to test if pans will be induction compatible is to hold a magnet to the bottom (any run-of-the-mill refrigerator magnet will do). If it sticks strongly to the base, then that pan is a good candidate for induction. Traditional and enameled cast iron and carbon steel will work, as well as some stainless steel (look for magnetic or fully-clad stainless steel). Using non-compatible cookware on induction won’t hurt anything—it just won’t heat up. Luckily, we’ve gathered a collection of our favorite induction-compatible cookware for you already.
The cookware must also have a flat bottom so it can make full contact with the burner. Induction is only really good at creating heat where the pot is in direct contact with the cooking surface above the copper coil. Cookware has to have a diameter that is big enough for the burner to detect and transmit enough energy to it, but small enough that the burner can still heat it evenly.
Induction Burners Are Surprisingly NoisyWhile the electromagnetic exchange process is technically silent, these machines definitely are not. All induction burners have fans inside to keep their inner components cool. The fan usually starts running as soon as the burner is turned on and for several moments after cooking stops. All of the models I tested for this review had roughly the same noise level depending on their heat settings, similar to that of a microwave or low kitchen exhaust fan.
The fan isn’t the only sound, though. When pans are heated using induction, they can emit sounds including—but not limited to—popping, buzzing, humming, and high-pitched whining. It happens more with pans that are lightweight or not totally flat on the bottom, as well as multi-clad cookware, which has sandwiched layers of metal that vibrate against each other during cooking.
FAQsWhat’s the best way to clean an induction burner?The best way to clean an induction burner is to wipe it down with a damp, soft cloth. You can use a little bit of detergent or mild cleaning spray if you’d like, just make sure to wipe it off and dry it thoroughly. We don’t recommend using any abrasive cleaners, since you might damage the surface.
What’s the best portable induction burner?In our testing, we really liked the Duxtop Portable Induction Cooktop 9100MC; it displayed controlled heating abilities and was easy to clean. We also liked the Hamilton Beach Portable Single Induction Cooktop and IKEA TILLREDA Portable Induction Cooktop. If you’re looking to cook solely on an induction burner and want to invest in a truly great (albeit, $$$) one, the Breville Control Freak is the one we use in the Serious Eats’ kitchens.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmOoni has oodles of pizza ovens. So many, in fact, we reviewed and created a guide to them.
However, all of those models are gas-, wood-, or pellet-powered. And absolutely none of them should be used indoors, limiting these ovens to those who have the outdoor space and, for much of the country (ahem, like where I live in New England), shortening pizza oven season to the handful of months when it’s pleasant to cook outside.
That is until the Ooni Volt came out this March. It’s the company’s first indoor-outdoor countertop pizza oven—and it’s electric, capable of reaching 850°F in just 20 minutes, according to the company, and cooking Neapolitan-style pizza in 90 seconds. For context, you need a deck temperature of 700°F, at a minimum, for Neapolitan pies. The only other indoor pizza oven we reviewed, the Breville Pizzaiolo maxes out at 750°F, which makes the Volt’s temperature range impressive.
To find out if the Ooni Volt could produce the kind of puffy, pillowy, leopard-spotted Neapolitan pies it claimed it could, we made a dozen pizzas with it.
The TestsSerious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm Temperature Test: We set the Volt to its max temp (850°F) and took the temp in the center of its stone every five minutes for 20 minutes using an infrared thermometer, to see how quickly the oven heated up and if it was hitting its stated temperature. * Outdoor Pizza Test: We made broccoli rabe and anchovy pizza outdoors, using an infrared thermometer to take the temp of the stone before and after loading each pie. We timed how long it took for each pizza to cook and gave the oven a more substantial recovery time between each pie (about seven minutes). * Indoor Pizza Test: We made burst tomato, shallot, and herb pizza indoors. This time, we kept the recovery time between each pie shorter, waiting three minutes in between pizzas. We timed how long it took each pie to cook. * Usability Tests: Throughout testing, we evaluated how intuitive the Volt’s controls were and how easy it was to load, turn, and retrieve pizzas. We looked at other factors, too, like if it released a lot of smoke when cooking inside and if it was easy to move. * Cleanup Tests:* Twice during testing we cleaned the oven and stone according to the manufacturer’s instructions, evaluating how easy it was to do so.
What We LearnedHow the Ooni Volt WorkedSerious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmThe outdoor Ooni I use, the Koda 16, has an L-shaped flame in the back corner that wraps around its sides and partially up its ceiling. The Volt, as appropriate for something used indoors, is flame-free. Instead, it has two heating elements on the top and bottom of the oven, the latter under its baking stone. Depending on the temperature you select, the oven automatically adjusts the output of both heating elements (though you can manually override this). Different styles of pies require various temperatures and benefit from hotter upper or lower elements. If this sounds even mildly confusing, don’t worry: the oven includes a guide as to what temperature to use for each pizza type. For example, Neapolitan should be cooked at 850°F and the oven will favor the top heating element. New York pies, on the other hand, should be cooked at 650°F, and the heat will be much more balanced between the top and bottom elements.
Because the Volt is electric and adjusts its heating elements automatically, this makes the oven incredibly easy to use. We mean that: it’s so well-designed there’s virtually zero guesswork—no tinkering to get the flame just right, no worrying about when you’ll need to add more fuel.
The Volt Made Really Fantastic PizzaSerious Eats / RIddley Gemperlein-Schirm
Impressively, the Volt hit its advertised temperatures—clocking in at 850°F in 20 minutes, with temperatures that surpassed this the longer it was on. Consistently, the pizzas we cooked came out with crispy bases, pillowy crusts, and leopard-spotted bottoms. Pies cooked in 90 seconds to two minutes on average, with a couple of pies taking just two minutes and 20 seconds. The oven didn’t need much recovery time either. The Volt’s temperature dial flashed to let you know when the temp dropped below its designated setting. Once that turned off (in just a couple of minutes), the oven was ready to go again.
The Volt Was Thoughtfully Designed, Especially for Indoor UseSerious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWith a touchscreen and control dials, the Volt feels like a beautifully designed countertop appliance—because it is one. We liked its non-slip feet, carbon steel shell (that, amazingly, never got super hot), glass door, interior light, and built-in side handles for lifting and moving (though, of course, it’s still a bulky, 39-pound oven, so it will never be that easy to transport). It was also incredibly quiet. In fact, my toaster oven is louder than the Volt.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmOne thing to note is that excess flour in the oven can (and will) cause it to smoke. This isn’t a big deal outdoors but is something to be mindful of inside. However, I made sure to apply liberal dustings of flour to my dough and peels, to see how much smoke the Volt would put out indoors. After about 40 minutes of slinging pies, the smoke didn’t set off my (sensitive!) fire alarm and was akin to letting a cast iron skillet go for too long on the stovetop. When I used a more judicious amount of flour, though, the Volt didn't smoke at all.
Lastly, a few usability quibbles: I could’ve done with a slightly longer power cord and, maybe, some sort of cord storage solution. After using the oven for a prolonged time, the touchscreen (where the control button is) got a little hot, too.
The VerdictProsThe Volt is a phenomenal, powerful electric pizza oven. The pizzas we made in it impressed us and we loved its usability features, like its intuitive controls and adjustable heating elements. If you lack outdoor space, are looking for an indoor-outdoor pizza oven, or are searching for a pizza oven that’ll require very little tinkering to nail beautiful pies, we highly recommend the Volt.
ConsThe Volt is quite large and, likely, will have to be stored elsewhere when not in use. At nearly $1,000, it’s also very expensive—more so than any of Ooni’s other ovens.
Key Specs
- Weight: 39.2 pounds
- Dimensions: 24.2 x 20.8 x 10.9 inches
- Temperature range: 150 to 850°F
- Warranty: 1-year (standard); 2 years (if registered online)
- Compatible with: Cover for Ooni Volt 12
- Price at time of publish: $999
FAQsHow do you clean the Ooni Volt? To clean the Volt, the manufacturer recommends waiting until the oven is completely cool. Then, you can remove the stone to discard any loose or large debris (it should not be washed). The glass door can be cleaned with a dry paper towel or with a paper towel and warm, soapy water for tougher messes (dry thoroughly afterward). The exterior of the oven can just be wiped down with a clean, damp cloth and then dried. “Your Ooni Volt 12 should not require any interior cleaning. Any food residue should burn off when in use,” the company notes.
What’s the best Ooni pizza oven? The best Ooni oven for you depends on a few factors: which mode of power you want (gas, wood, pellet, or electric), what size oven you want, and how much you want to spend. You can find our detailed comparison of all of the Ooni ovens here.
Editor’s note: We received a press sample of the Ooni Volt, but all of our opinions are our own.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonIf you’ve spent even five minutes researching grills, you know there’s a lot to choose from. Between gas grills, charcoal grills, pellet grills, and smokers—each with price points that can vary from a couple-hundred bucks to thousands of dollars—making a choice can feel pretty daunting. To complicate things even further—just kidding, we’re only here to help!—we recently tested portable charcoal grills, and we’ve got a great set of grates to fit every budget.
The Winners, at a Glance The Best Portable Charcoal Grill: PK Grills PKGO Portable Charcoal Grill and Smoker * The Best Portable Charcoal Grill with a Cart: Masterbuilt Portable Charcoal Grill and Smoker with Cart * The Best Aesthetic Portable Charcoal Grill: Everdure CUBE Portable Charcoal Grill * The Best Budget-Friendly Tabletop Portable Charcoal Grill: Dyna-Glo Signature Series Portable Tabletop Charcoal Grill * A Very Durable Portable Charcoal Grill: Oklahoma Joe’s Rambler Tabletop Charcoal Grill * The Best Splurge-Worthy Portable Charcoal Grill: NOMAD Grill and Smoker * The Best Lightweight, Inexpensive Portable Charcoal Grill: Expert Grill Premium Portable Charcoal Grill * A Beginner-Friendly Portable Charcoal Grill: Char-Griller Portable Charcoal Grill * The Best Kettle Portable Charcoal Grill: SnS Grills Slow ‘N Sear Travel Kettle Grill * A Portable Charcoal Grill Pick from Weber: Weber Go-Anywhere Charcoal Grill * The Best Budget-Friendly Weber Portable Charcoal Grill:* Weber Smokey Joe 14-Inch Portable Grill
The TestsSerious Eats / Russell Kilgore Assembly Test: We assembled each portable charcoal grill, timing how long it took to do so. * Temperature Control Test: We used a probe thermometer to monitor the temperature of the grill as we fired it up and attempted to adjust the temperature. We also looked at how accurate any built-in thermometers were, compared to the probe thermometer. * Corn, Burgers, and Brats Test: We grilled two corn cobs, two burgers, and two brats on each grill, evaluating how well and evenly each grilled. * Cleanup Test: We cleaned each grill per the manufacturer's instructions, looking at how easy it was to do so. * Usability Tests:* Throughout testing, we evaluated how easy each grill was to setup, use, and move.
What’s a Portable Charcoal Grill?Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonAs the name suggests, portable charcoal grills are portable! While most grills can be moved around to some extent, these are smaller, lighter, purpose-built grills meant for mobility. This means they also tend to be among the most budget-friendly grills, and they’re convenient for smaller spaces like patios or balconies.
Firing up a portable charcoal grill is guaranteed to make you the most popular person at the beach, park, or campsite this summer—just be sure to check local regulations first to make sure grilling is allowed.
Should You Buy a Portable Charcoal Grill or a Standard-Size Charcoal Grill?Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWe know it’s annoying to be told “it depends,” but, well, it depends. If you’re only planning to grill at home and you have the extra space for a standard-size charcoal grill, you might as well give yourself the additional cooking surface and opt for the full-size version.
If you’re tight on space or like the idea of being able to bring a small grill along on road trips or weekend outings with friends, a portable charcoal grill might be just the thing.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Portable Charcoal GrillSerious Eats / Russell KilgoreCharcoal grills tend to be pretty straightforward in design anyway, so portable models aren’t the place to expect bells and whistles. When we let our testers loose on over a dozen portable charcoal grills, we wanted their feedback on factors like assembly and clean-up, heating speed and retention, ease of flipping food, and whether they dealt with problems like sticking or flare-ups.
The portable charcoal grills that scored highest in our tests excelled in a few key areas:
PortabilityThis might seem obvious, but we wanted to make sure each portable grill was actually portable. We’re less likely to use a grill that needs a complete tear-down and reassembly each time we want to take it somewhere. And, ideally, a portable grill should be lightweight enough to be manageable by just one person—though we do have a few in our list that are best transported with a helping hand.
StabilitySerious Eats / Russell KilgoreWe’re not expecting perfect stability on a sandy beach or rocky campsite, but if a portable grill is sitting on a tabletop and wobbling with each burger flip? Not ideal.
Ease of UseAgain, the whole point of a portable charcoal grill is to be able to use it in situations where a grill may not be an obvious choice. We sought out grills that were easy to assemble and clean and retained heat well enough to cook food our testers actually wanted to eat.
With that, let’s get into the portable charcoal grills we’re happy to recommend.
What we liked: This grill scored high right out of the box—literally, thanks to the fact it arrived mostly assembled. This was also where testers became very aware of the PKGO’s heft; its cast iron construction means this portable grill clocks in at 39.5 pounds. It won’t be the easiest for everyone to move around, but this also means it’s nice and stable.
Our testers appreciated how easy it was to add charcoal without making a mess, and noted how the food had plenty of room on the grates. Burgers and sausages “sizzled immediately when placed on the grill” and came away with “very defined grill marks,” according to testers’ notes. The PKGO was equally easy to clean—pretty much a dump-and-go situation—though it did take a long time to cool down enough to handle.
Overall, testers agreed that this grill is “great for an avid camper or outdoorsy person,” with the caveat that it’s too heavy to realistically carry over long distances. They also liked the clips on the sides that ensured the lid stayed closed during transport or storage.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonWhat we didn't like: Its weight may be a detriment to its portability, but the PKGO “retains heat so well that the weight actually makes it more attractive,” according to one tester, who added that this grill is worth the investment because it “performed so well and the quality of the build is so durable.”
Price at time of publish: $337.
Key Specs Cooking area: 204 square inches * Dimensions: 13.03 x 20.9 x 15.3 inches * Weight: 39.5 pounds * Warranty:* 20 years (bowl and lid), 3 years (grates and plastic components), 2 years (metal parts and accessories), 1 year (temperature gauge)
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonWhat we liked: With its useful rolling cart, testers confirmed that Masterbuilt’s portable charcoal grill is “incredibly easy to move” and “stable when fully unfolded” thanks to the wide base. Once you’ve got it where you want it, charcoal was easy to add through the hopper.
Food came off of the Masterbuilt with a nice sear and the grill retained heat well enough that our tester never had to refill the coals during a 45-minute cooking session. Ash was easy to clean up (thanks again, hopper!) and general consensus was that this grill “would be good for a small beach-going or camping family.” It even has two built-in drink holders. Testers also agreed that the Masterbuilt portable charcoal grill is both beginner-friendly and suitable for experienced grills who can make the most of its ability to double as a smoker.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWhat we didn't like: Our testers cautioned that the hopper door gets quite hot and you’ll definitely want to use BBQ gloves if you’re planning to add coals while cooking.
Price at time of publish: $298.
Key Specs Cooking area: 200 square inches * Dimensions: 18.8 x 27 x 36 inches * Weight: 52 pounds * Warranty:* 1 year
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonWhat we liked: The Everdure CUBE is probably what comes to mind first when most of us think of a portable grill. It’s “small and easy to move” and “really easy to use” according to testers, though it’s definitely suited to just one or two people—you won’t be feeding a crowd with this one!
One tester described the CUBE as “literally a drink cooler converted into a grill and I’m here for it.” This little grill is nice and lightweight, and well-balanced thanks to rubber feet at all four corners. When it comes to cooking, the CUBE delivers with surprising performance. Testers reported “definitive grill marks” on the brats, charing on the corncobs, and a nice sear on the burgers.
The Everdure CUBE portable charcoal grill is “definitely a beachgoer type of grill” that is “easy to move, easy to use, and easy to clean.” While its small size may limit how efficiently you can feed multiple people, this is a portable grill you’ll actually want to use. It's also available in a handful of fun colors.
What we didn't like: Again, this is a small grill and its size may be limiting for some.
Price at time of publish: $199.
Key Specs Cooking area: 103.9 square inches * Dimensions: 9.1 x 16.7 x 13.7 inches * Weight: 15.43 pounds * Warranty:* Not specified
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonWhat we liked: At 44 pounds, this grill might require a second set of hands to help assemble and move, but it’s sturdy once you get it in place. Testers liked the expansive cooking area and while they did notice some hot spots while cooking, food came off the grates nicely cooked and with pleasing grill marks.
Due to the Dyna-Glo’s heft, this probably isn’t the grill you’ll carry along to the park, but it’s a great option for small outdoor spaces. Testers agree this grill will appeal to grilling beginners thanks to its sectioned grates that allow for the easy addition of charcoal, as well as the conveniently placed vent dampers and ash catcher. Similarly, experienced grillers will appreciate the cast iron construction that retains heat well and clocks in at an accessible price.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonWhat we didn't like: Again, this isn't a grill for moving any sort of distance.
Price at time of publish: $197.
Key Specs Cooking area: 287 square inches * Dimensions: 24.17 x 18.35 x 21 inches * Weight: 40.7 pounds * Warranty:* 1 year
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonWhat we liked: Despite being “heavy and cumbersome to carry,” the Oklahoma Joe’s Rambler scored high among our testers, who appreciated the grill’s capacity both for charcoal and space on the grates for cooking. “Food that was in contact with the cast iron grates browned exceedingly well,” noted one tester, who also commented that the Rambler “handled well and was easy to clean," thanks to its pull-out ash tray.
This grill is perhaps more of a small-format grill than a true portable unit—a lack of wheels adds to the difficulty of moving it around—but the heavy-duty construction means the Rambler retains heat like a champ. The charcoal tray is also height-adjustable, meaning you can easily achieve either high heat, or keep things low and slow. Overall, “this grill feels priced exceptionally well for its durability and performance.”
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWhat we didn't like: At 48.5 pounds, you'd likely need two people to move this grill around.
Price at time of publish: $199.
Key Specs Cooking area: 218 square inches * Dimensions: 19.5 x 21.8 x 26.8 inches * Weight: 48.5 pounds * Warranty:* 2 years
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonWhat we liked: The NOMAD portable grill definitely carries the highest price tag on our list, but our tests proved it’s worth the splurge if you’re serious about grilling on the go.
Not only does the NOMAD come fully assembled, the suitcase-style design means it’s about as portable as a portable grill can get. There are no legs, so you’ll need to find a flat surface, but it’s a sturdy piece of equipment with its rubber feet and magnetic grates. Because the NOMAD unfolds, you’re provided with a generous cooking surface—212 square inches as-is, or you can purchase the optional second grate and enjoy 425 square inches of grilling space. During our single-grate test, two corn cobs, two burgers, and two brats fit with ease, though only the brats came off with visible grill marks. The corn was warmed through while the burgers had more of a sear. It also as an interesting, honey comb-shaped grate pattern.
Serious Eats / Nick Simpson“This is a good grill for its portability and ability to cook well,” reported one tester, who says the NOMAD is one of the most accessible portable grills for beginners because “it’s not difficult to set up or use and the dampers don’t leave much room for error.” That said, it may not be ideal for avid grillers, but for camping or tailgating purposes? Definitely.
What we didn't like: Of course, its price tag is very high compared to the other grills in this review.
Price at time of publish: $649.
Key Specs Cooking area: 212 or 425 square inches * Dimensions: 20.5 x 4.75 x 27.25 inches * Weight: 28 pounds * Warranty:* Limited lifetime
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonWhat we liked: When it comes to affordability, this grill is tough to beat. Testers liked how lightweight and easy it was to carry, and while the portable Expert Grill isn’t the most stable unit out there, it gets the job done without fuss. “This grill has a lot of room,” one tester noted, pleased with the amount of available space to flip food and move things around.
All told, it’s the price that really sells this grill, which “feels like it would belong to a beginner or someone who is not ready to commit to a full-size charcoal grill.” Testers agree that this model is “a good fit for tailgating or RV camping, where it can sit on a truck bed, fold-out table, or picnic table.”
Expert Grill may not have given us a luxury grill with this portable pick, but it’s a darn good price for a very functional piece of equipment. Also? It’s cute.
What we didn't like: The legs are wobbly, which gave testers pause.
Price at time of publish: $74.
Key Specs Cooking area: 262 square inches * Dimensions: 17.5 x 17 x 24.5 inches * Weight: 18.5 pounds * Warranty:* 1 year
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWhat we liked: Here we have another budget-friendly portable charcoal grill, this one from Char-Griller. It’s quite stout, which does mean it’s less easily portable than the comparably priced Expert Grill, but it’s very sturdy and testers appreciated the lack of wobble.
Once the grill is up and running, testers did like the spacious cooking surface, evenly cooked food, and resulting char marks which yielded brats with “a wonderful outside texture and flavor with a juicy inside.”
Overall, this is another portable grill best suited to beginners, but for the price, we’ll back it as a pick for anyone in the market for a small charcoal grill.
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonWhat we didn't like: The Char-Griller can be troublesome when it comes to adding charcoal, which must be done from the smaller side of the barrel, where the charcoal chimney “just barely fits inside to be able to pour the coals without spilling ash and hot embers.”
Price at time of publish: $70.
Key Specs Cooking area: 250 square inches * Dimensions: 19 x 18.7 x 21.1 inches * Weight: 37 pounds * Warranty:* 1 year
Serious Eats / Nick SimpsonWhat we liked: Testers liked the portability of this grill, which “can be easily carried by an adult” and “would be great for a day trip with a small family.” The Slow ‘N Sear kettle grill is also easy to clean and cools down quickly, which is convenient for packing up but perhaps less ideal for heat retention during cooking.
You probably won’t win any grilling competitions with the SnS Slow ‘N Sear, but if your goal is a truly portable charcoal grill that won’t take ages to cool down after use, testers concurred that the price is fair and “the overall quality of the grill is good.”
What we didn't like: Our testers struggled with uneven heating, reporting a difference of 35°F between a sausage that had been in the center of the grate versus one that had been closer to the edge for the same amount of time.
Price at time of publish: $180.
Key Specs Cooking area: 18-inch diameter * Dimensions: 21 x 20.25 inches * Weight: 17.8 pounds * Warranty:* 10 years (bowl and lid), 5 years (ash removal, plastic components, side shelf), 2 years (remaining parts)
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWhat we liked: With one of the most respected names in the grill game, it should come as no surprise that there’s a Weber on our list. The Go-Anywhere is a portable charcoal grill at a favorable price that’s easy to assemble and lightweight enough to carry with ease.
It isn’t Weber’s standout performer, though. While our testers had no issues with grilling burgers and corn cobs, the bratwursts cooked unevenly in comparison. But as one tester noted, “there are no bells and whistles in any capacity—this grill performs the bare minimum and does so admirably.” In other words, as long as your expectations are modest, the Go-Anywhere is a solid choice if you’re looking for a well-constructed grill under $100.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWhat we didn't like: Again, uneven cooking plagued this pick a bit.
Price at time of publish: $71.
Key Specs Cooking area: 160 square inches * Dimensions: 11.5 x 19.5 x 15 inches * Weight: 13.45 pounds * Warranty:* 10 years
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWhat we liked: The Smokey Joe is certainly budget-friendly at less than $50. It’s quite small and lightweight, and though testers noted the importance of keeping the grill upright and steady to avoid dislodging the lid and grate while carrying it, this is an easy grill to move around.
Though the Smokey Joe doesn’t get as rip-roaring hot as many of us may hope for in a grill, this is an affordable, practical, beginner-friendly option for cooking food in places where you otherwise wouldn’t.
What we didn't like: As you can probably assume from the 14-inch diameter, there’s not a lot of room to work while cooking. While testers were able to fit two burgers, two brats, and two ears of corn all in one go, the sausages were undercooked and the rest “looked baked, not grilled,” according to notes.
Price at time of publish: $46.
Key Specs Cooking area: 14-inch diameter * Dimensions: 17 x 14.2 x 14.5 inches * Weight: 9.5 pounds * Warranty:* 10 years
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe Competition* Americana Walk-A-Bout Portable Charcoal Grill: This grill was able to cook food satisfactorily, but testers thought it just felt too cheaply constructed, even for its low price. * Napoleon 14" Portable Charcoal Kettle Grill: Testers just thought this grill was too average to choose over other models. “I would spend more money on a grill that I could trust to prepare a good-quality product rather than take the less expensive route and purchase something I would be unhappy with after the first time cooking on it,” one tester noted. * Char-Broil Portable Kettle Charcoal Grill: “Don’t spend one red cent on this grill!” wrote one tester, whose most positive feedback about this inexpensive model was that it’s easy to clean.
FAQsHow light is a portable charcoal grill?It varies! Depending on their size and construction, the portable charcoal grills we tested ranged from just under 10 pounds to over 50 pounds.
How do you start a portable charcoal grill?It’s helpful to use a chimney starter when lighting a charcoal grill. Instead of squirting lighter fluid all over the charcoal, you pile charcoal into the chimney, stuff the bottom with newspaper, and light with a match. When the coals are hot, simply transfer them to your grill.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyI first experienced live-fire cooking as a Boy Scout. Each of us scouts wrapped potatoes in aluminum foil before the scoutmaster nestled our lunch into the hot coals of a bonfire. Or what we thought were hot coals. An hour later, we had 20 raw potatoes and an equal number of hungry scouts. Since then, I've always felt that live-fire cooking was best left to the experts.
Our associate commerce editor, Grace Kelly, was equally intimidated by live-fire cooking until she reviewed the Solo Stove Bonfire and the accompanying Grill Top and Hub. She says: "I was mighty impressed with how easy the Solo Stove was to set up and light—no fiddling with fanning the flames required. Oh, and the lamb chops I grilled on it using the accompanying grill top and hub were phenomenal. If you want to show off some live-fire cooking skills (or just toast a few marshmallows with friends), the Bonfire makes it easy." I’m not quite as brave as Grace, but I did find another use for my Solo Stove: keeping guests warm while I make pizzas in my outdoor pizza oven. I’m a bit of a pizza-making fiend and the only reason my friends tolerate sitting outside on a crisp Wisconsin spring evening with me as I sling pies is 1. Free pizza and 2. The toasty bonfire in my Solo Stove (okay, and they’re my friends, so I suppose that has something to do with it, too).
The Solo Stove’s great because it kicks out excellent radiant heat without the heavy smoke of a traditional firepit—even my dog approves: typically, the pops, crackles, and bursts of smoke kept him cowering indoors. But with the virtually silent and smokeless Solo Stove, he doesn’t mind hanging out by our feet for the chance of nabbing a stray piece of pepperoni.
The stove’s portability is also a big selling point. Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, our senior commerce editor, says, "I've influenced my whole family to buy Solo Stoves after they saw mine in action during our annual Cape Cod trip. It retains heat wonderfully and burns for an exceptionally long time. I also love its carrying case (thank you, handles!), which makes it easily portable and storable."
Whether you’re looking to cut your teeth at live-fire cooking, enjoy hosting outdoor gatherings, or want to bring your own campfire along on a camping adventure, the Solo Stove Bonfire is a versatile fire pit that goes above and beyond just providing flames.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyTo buy: Solo Stove Bonfire was $400, now $260 at solostove.com, Solo Stove Bonfire Grill Top and Hub was $325, now $220 at solostove.com
Good to Know:Solo Stove Bonfire 2 Diameter: 19.5 in * Height: 14 in * Weight: 23.3 lbs * Materials:* Stainless steel
Solo Stove Bonfire Grill Top and Hub Cooking surface diameter: 17.5 in * Hub base diameter: 18.75 in * Combined height: 9.5 in * Weight: 20 lbs * Materials:* Stainless steel hub, cast iron grill top
FAQsAre Solo Stove fire pits worth it?We think so. They’re portable, effectively smokeless, and made from durable stainless steel, which is rust- and weather-resistant (as long as you keep it dry). And with accessories like the grill top and hub, you can also use them to cook over a live fire.
Is it safe to use a Solo Stove on a wooden deck?Yep—as long as you place the Solo Stove fire pit on top of the stand, it’s safe to set up on wood surfaces. Because the sides are made from dual-wall steel, it radiates heat more gently than open-sided fire pits, which can get too hot to place on flammable surfaces.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIf ramps are the harbingers of spring, then asparagus is certainly its king. Among the vegetables that are available year-round from the supermarket, there are very few that show as drastic a change in flavor between the imported, year-round stuff, and the fresh-from-the-earth spring variety. Like peas and corn, asparagus contains a lot of sugar at the moment of harvest.As it sits around waiting to be cooked, this sugar quite rapidly begins to form starch molecules, turning a once tender and sweet stalk bland.
But the best part of asparagus is how darn easy it is to prepare. It's a great gateway vegetable for anyone who has been too intimidated to get into vegetable cookery (I know you're out there). There's almost no way, short of incinerating or canning it, to completely mess it up. And even if you do manage to mess it up, it's still pretty delicious.
Tips for Buying AsparagusWhether you choose bright green stalks, mild white stalks (which are grown underground to prevent chlorophyll development), or any one of the purple varieties, you should always look for the same things: firm, crisp stalks with tight, fully closed budding tips. As the asparagus ages, the petals on the tip will slowly open up, dry out, or fall off. Asparagus should appear moist, but not wet. Fresh cut and bright, not dry or woody.
Your best bet for good asparagus is at a local farmers market or direct from a farm. The asparagus you get in most supermarkets, even during peak season, have been out of the earth for too long to really let their flavor shine. Unless it comes direct from the farmer, asparagus' point of origin is always written either on a label or rubber band affixed to the bunch. Do me, your farmer, and your tastebuds a favor: if you live in North America, don't buy Peruvian asparagus in the middle of May—there's surely a more local source with much better asparagus available then.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikAsparagus comes in all sizes, from slim, pencil-width stalks to big fat ones as thick as your thumb, and believe it or not, the size has nothing to do with their age (I would believe it). Asparagus stalks grow from an underground base from which scores of stalks shoot forth. It takes about three seasons for this crown to begin producing edible stalks, and after that, it'll continue to produce stalks for at least a couple of decades. It's the age and variety of this crown that determines the thickness of a stalk—that is, a farmer can't simply wait for a thin stalk to grow into a thicker one. It won't happen.
While both can be fantastic, I do generally choose one size over the other depending on how I'm going to cook it (or, more likely, I choose my cooking method based on the size of asparagus I happened to pick up from the farmers' market).
- Thin spears about 1/3 of an inch or less tend to be more intense in flavor and less watery. They're also a little bit tougher and snappier, due to their higher ratio of fibrous skin to softer interior. This makes them ideal for blanching, serving cold, stir-frying, or even just as a raw snack. Higher-heat methods like broiling or grilling tend to dry them out a little too much, though if you like that charred asparagus flavor, you might still consider cooking them with these methods.
- Fat spears thicker than 1/3 of an inch are considerably more tender than small stalks, but can get a little watery if you steam or boil them. High heat cooking methods like grilling, broiling, stir-frying, and pan-searing are best, allowing you to get them nice and caramelized on their exterior while still maintaining a bit of bite. I always use large spears for braising.
How to Prep AsparagusDepending on its age, the bottom part of a stalk of asparagus can get unpleasantly woody or fibrous, and usually needs to be trimmed. But what's the best way to do this?
Traditional wisdom will tell you that the best "foolproof" way is to simply grasp the stalk at both ends and snap it. The asparagus will magically break exactly where it needs to. This question is often debated, and generally most people come down on the side of snapping. But is it really the best method, or merely an old wives' tale?
After some pretty extensive testing, I've come to realize that it's all a bunch of hokum. Depending on exactly how you apply force to the stalk, you can get it to snap pretty much anywhere along its length, even when your hands are in the exact same position. Check this out:
Serious EatsI snapped every one of these stalks with my bare hands, holding each of them at the exact same point, and was still able to make them break wherever I wanted to along their length—quite easily, I might add. For a method to be foolproof, it cannot be so strongly dependent on user input. How do I know I'm going to snap my stalks the same way my wife will? Or even if I snap stalks the same way day after day? The bigger problem than variations from user to user is that you're more likely to accidentally remove too much good asparagus stalk with this method. The goal is simply to remove the woody bottom part, nothing more, and snapping is not a reliable way to do that.
Far easier is to simply line them up, visually examine where most of the stalks appear to become woody (the stalk will begin to fade to white at that point), then slice them all at once, picking out any outliers and trimming them as necessary on a case-by-case basis.
Does this mean that you can't snap them? Of course not. There's more than one way to trim a stalk.Just know that you don't have to, and that most likely, you're not actually doing a better job of finding the "sweet spot" than you would do with a knife.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf you want to get extra fancy with your asparagus, you can peel the stalks in order to improve their texture. Even when properly trimmed, the outer layers can have a fibrousness that is apparently upsetting to the palates of people who do things like write Michelin guides.
For me, it's a skinless vs. skin-on hot dog thing. Sometimes I want that decisive snap and thin film-like layer that skin-on asparagus gives me, just like biting into a good Sabrett's. Other times, I'm content for tender, skinless franks.If you do decide to peel, don't throw them out! The peels are still plenty flavorful and can be used to make a creamy asparagus soup or in a vegetable stock.
How to Store AsparagusThe best way to store asparagus is to not. As I said, its flavor dramatically diminishes over time, so the sooner you get it in the pan and into your belly, the better.
If you absolutely must store asparagus, treat it like you would a bunch of flowers.* Place the trimmed ends into a cup of water with the stalks standing straight up, then loosely cover the tips with a plastic bag to prevent evaporation. Set the whole thing in the fridge.
Some people recommend adding salt or sugar to the water the stalks are held in, but I've never been able to detect any difference in flavor when you do this. Don't bother.
*Which it in fact isn't, despite what you may have read. Asparagus "flowers"—the part you eat—are actually modified stem structures. True asparagus flowers are six-tepaled (not to be confused with petaled, though they are, in fact, also six-petaled), bell-shaped affairs with poisonous red berries.
How to Cook AsparagusAsparagus is an extremely versatile vegetable and can be cooked in dozens of ways, though unlike, say, onions or spinach, it pretty much always takes center stage in whatever preparation you use it in. For a while, the fashion was to barely cook it so that the exterior was bright green while the interior was still essentially raw. Thankfully, we've passed that stage and have once again embraced asparagus in all its forms from raw and crunchy to braised, olive-green, and totally tender.
However you cook it, it almost always benefits from a period of hard, fast cooking which can then be followed (or not) by a slower-paced session to tenderize it. Like many vegetables, asparagus is high in sugar (even more so when it's completely fresh), and high heat takes advantage of this by caramelizing those sugars and adding complexity to its flavors.
RawIf your stalks are slender enough, you're in luck. You can just chop them into segments and toss them directly into a salad dressed with a light, lemony vinaigrette, but if you've got big fat stalks, you've got to do a little more work (don't worry, the end result is worth it). Slice the stalks lengthwise using a vegetable peeler or a mandolin (be very careful if you do this) into strips about as thick as a piece of card stock. If you then store these in a bowl of iced water for about 30 minutes, they'll curl up into beautiful tangles that you can toss with other greens, or simply dress and eat on their own (or top a pizza with it.)
Blanched or SteamedBlanched or steamed asparagus is a great way to let its natural, delicate flavors come through, and it's what I usually do to very thin stalks (such as in this vibrant spring salad). You can eat it hot, but I actually prefer it cold, dunking it in a bowl of ice water direct from the boiling pot as soon as its hit the tenderness level I'm looking for. When boiling asparagus, use a large amount of well-salted water at a rolling boil. The goal is to tenderize the stalk through to its center before naturally occurring enzymes have enough to time rob it of its bright green color. Unless you're going to serve your asparagus hot and immediately, shocking it in ice water* right after cooking will prevent these same enzymes from continuing to work.
* Despite what a certain six-volume cookbook says, an ice water bath does indeed prevent blanched green vegetables from turning drab (try it out for yourself!).
I'm also a fan of using the microwave to rapidly steam asparagus. The technique works well because of asparagus' high water content.
GrilledGrilling some steaks and don't know what to serve on the side? Asparagus is a no-brainer. It cooks in the time that it takes for your steaks to rest, it's healthy, and it's dead simple to do. The high heat of a grill instantly starts caramelizing and charring asparagus' sugars while allowing the bulk of it to remain crisp and sweet. Smoky + sweet + crisp + easy = huge win for all backyard chefs. In order to make sure that they cook relatively easily and don't dry out on the grill, it's essential to toss them with a thin coating of oil before they hit the grates. Oil is not only a better heat-distribution medium that the naked air, it also keeps the stalks lubricated, filling in all the microscopic nooks and crannies left behind by evaporating moisture and preventing the 'gus from turning shriveled or leathery.
J. Kenji Lopez-AltYou can serve them any number of ways, such as drizzling with melted herb butter or lemon juice, or grating cheese on top, but in all honesty, the best way to eat them is straight off the grill with your fingers.
Another grilling-adjacent method worth having in your toolbelt is "charcoal-chimney" grilling, in which the asparagus is set atop a grate directly on top of a charcoal chimney starter instead of the grill itself. The chimney starter has a conical design that generates a terrific blast of extremely intense heat flowing right up to the asparagus. The effect is rapid and impressive, with a deep char combined with a still-fresh green hue, thanks to the quick cooking time.
Broiled, Oven-Roasted, or Air-FriedVery similar to grilling, the key here is to use crazy high heat to maximize caramelization while still maintaining a pleasant crispness. The best way to do this is to use a relatively heavy rimmed baking sheet which you allow to preheat for at least 10 minutes or so in a 500°F oven on the bottom rack. Toss your asparagus with a bit of olive oil, salt, and pepper, and throw it on the pan. If everything went right (and there should be no reason it didn't), the asparagus will sizzle and start browning as soon as it hits the pan. Alternatively, place the stalks on a rimmed baking sheet a few inches away from a broiler element heated to high. A few minutes in the oven, and you're good to go. Sprinkle with some lemon or a good cheese, or try it with a fried egg.
J. Kenji López-AltAn air-fryer is another great tool for a similar high-heat roasting effect. Since an air-fryer doesn't actually fry, but instead roasts using a powerful convection fan (relative to the small cooking chamber), the food inside roasts and browns deeply and evenly.
Pan-Roasted or Stir-FriedAnother high-heat method that is wonderful when applied to asparagus, pan-roasting asparagus becomes wonderfully tender inside while developing a deeply woodsy char outside. It's essentially a form a sautéing, but the "roasting" verbiage here is meant to really impress upon you the importance of not being shy with the heat, as you really want the asparagus to blister and char where it's in contact with the pan. Similarly, don't crowd the pan, which will generate more steam than is ideal for this method.
Seen through another lens, this is also closely related to the high-heat approach of stir-frying, except that I often pan-roast asparagus whole, while stir-frying is easier done with the asparagus cut down into shorter lengths.
BraisedThis is my absolute favorite way to prepare it, and the one that was looked down upon for so many years. Why would you want to eat drab green vegetables?, people would say. Because they taste as awesome as MacGyver was cool, that's why. I sear my stalks in a bit of oil first to develop flavor, then deglaze the pan with either water or stock, add a big knob of butter, put a lid on the whole thing, and let the asparagus cook in the liquid as it reduced. By the time the stalks are tender, with good luck, your stock and butter will have emulsified into a slick, stalk-coating sauce that adds richness and sweet flavor to each bite—you can find my recipe here. It's awesome.
One last thing that you probably notice after your asparagus has been done eaten: That haunting smell—haunting as in it comes back and surprises you long after you thought it was gone—is caused by S-methyl thioacrylate and S-methyl 3-(methylthio)thiopropionate, chemicals identified in 1975 at the University of California at San Diego. It's not known exactly why some people seem unable to digest it, but it is known that the degree of Post-Asparagus Stinky-Urine Disorder (PASUD) is related to your genealogy. Fewer than half of Britons suffer from it, while almost 100% of the French do.
I know which country I'd rather be in for sporting matches during asparagus season.
Blanched AsparagusIn a large bowl, prepare an ice water bath. In a large pot of salted boiling water, blanch asparagus until crisp-tender, about about 30 seconds to 1 minute for thinner asparagus and 1 to 2 minutes for thicker asparagus. Immediately transfer asparagus to ice bath to chill.
Grilled AsparagusLight one chimney full of charcoal. When all the charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and spread the coals evenly over half of the coal grate. Set cooking grate in place, cover grill and allow to preheat for 5 minutes. Clean and oil the grilling grate. If using a gas grill, preheat half the grill to high.
Toss asparagus with 2 tablespoons olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Add asparagus to hot side of grill and cook, turning occasionally, until well-charred and tender, 5 to 8 minutes.
Broiled AsparagusPreheat broiler and position rack about 4 to 6 inches from it. On a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle asparagus with oil and toss to coat. Season with salt. Broil asparagus, shaking and rotating pan occasionally to cook them evenly on all sides, until asparagus is blistered, about 6 minutes.
Pan-Roasted AsparagusIn a large cast iron, carbon steel, or stainless steel skillet, heat 1 tablespoon (15ml) vegetable oil over high heat until shimmering. Add half of asparagus and cook, tossing, stirring, and rotating the spears frequently, until browned all over, charred lightly in spots, and crisp-tender within, about 10 minutes; lower heat if necessary to prevent burning. Using tongs, transfer each spear as it's done to a plate and keep warm. Repeat with remaining vegetable oil and asparagus. Season with salt and pepper.
Braised AsparagusHeat oil in a 12-inch straight-sided sauté pan over high heat until lightly smoking. Add asparagus in as close to a single layer as possible, season with salt and pepper, and cook without moving until lightly browned, about 1 1/2 minutes. Shake pan and cook until browned again, 1 1/2 minutes longer. Add 1 cup chicken or vegetable stock and 3 tablespoons butter to pan and immediately cover.
Continue to cook until asparagus is completely tender and stock and butter have emulsified and reduced to a shiny glaze, 7 to 10 minutes. If stock completely evaporates and butter starts to burn before asparagus is cooked through, top up with a few tablespoons of water. Serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeWe’ve all seen the cold, wan Danishes sitting behind the bakery case or forgotten about in a pile of breakfast pastries in some conference room. Pale, stodgy, and cloying, their most attractive quality is that they'll go down easier than the stale croissants next to them. It isn't a new problem—late food writer Mimi Sheraton complained about the state of the Danish back in 1977. She wrote in the New York Times that if Denmark ever broke off diplomatic relations with the U.S., it’d likely be because of our misuse of the word Danish “to describe the leaden, oily, artificially yellow and cloyingly sweet cakes we find in luncheonettes… Compared to the yeasty, buttery, flaky and delicate pastries that Danes know as Vienna bread—wienerbrod—the imposters we produce amount to a national insult.”
She wasn't wrong then, and, sadly, her comments still ring true. So while it may be a labor of love to make your own Danishes from scratch, it’s worth taking the time to do it right. Made with a yeasted dough that’s layered with butter, the pastry is something of a cross between a brioche and a croissant. A great Danish should be tender, flaky, and nicely browned, with a balanced filling of cream cheese, jammy fruit, or pastry cream. These Danishes are rich with butter and packed with sweet, tangy cream cheese—and may very well convince you that the only ones worth eating are warm, freshly baked ones.
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeAs with so many origin stories of popular foods, the supposed birth of the cheese Danish sounds a little too cute to be true. According to Jan M. Olsen, who dug into the Danish's beginnings for the Los Angeles Times in 1993, the pastry was accidentally created by a baker named Claudius Gelee, who apparently (and oh, so conveniently!) forgot to add butter to his dough. In an attempt to conceal his mistake, Gelee began “folding lumps of [butter] into the dough.” Much to Gelee and his colleagues’ surprise, the pastry turned out to be a success—what Olsen describes as “the lightest dough ever seen in France.” Soon after, Gelee opened his own cafe in Paris and Florence, and somewhere along the way, Italian bakers brought the pastry to Austria.
It wasn’t until the late 19th century, according to Sandra J. Weber in the New York Times, that the pastry arrived in Denmark when Danish bakers went on strike. In desperate need of bakers, the country sought replacement workers from Vienna, who brought with them the wienerbrod so beloved in Denmark today. “By the time the strike was settled,” Weber noted, “Danes had acquired a passion and flair for the rich, light pastries.”
Getting Danish Dough RightTraditionally, Danishes are made with a yeasted, laminated dough enriched with sugar and eggs. While Danishes bear a similar resemblance to puff pastry and croissants, the doughs all differ slightly from one another. Puff pastry is made up of flour, water, and salt; croissant dough consists of flour, sugar, yeast, milk, and salt; and Danish dough is essentially croissant dough that’s been further enriched with eggs. After the doughs are mixed, they are then laminated—rolled and folded over themselves several times—with a chilled butter block. As the dough bakes, the butter between the layers melts and creates pockets of steam, lifting the pastry and creating crisp, flaky layers.
Now, making a laminated dough from start to finish is a time-consuming, labor-intensive process that strikes fear in the hearts of even the most experienced bakers and pastry chefs. Luckily for us, there’s a shortcut we can take that will still result in a rich, buttery dough. Instead of laminating our dough with a butter block, we’re going to take a cue from rough puff pastry (or blitz puff pastry) by incorporating pieces of butter into the dough, then folding the dough over itself three times to create a total of 27 layers.
How to Fold Your Dough Using the Letter Fold MethodThe best way to fold the dough is with what's known as the letter fold method. To make a letter fold, you first roll your dough out into a rectangle—in this recipe that’s an 18- by 9-inch rectangle—and bring the right third of the dough over the center, then fold the left third on top to create a smaller rectangle. The dough is then chilled so that the butter can firm up, and then folded in the same way a second time. The whole process is repeated once more for a total of three letter folds.
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeEach letter fold creates exponentially more layers; by the time you’ve completed three folds, you’ll have a total of 27 layers. (The first fold results in three layers; the second fold in nine; and the third fold in 27.) Though we aren’t laminating with a butter block, folding our butter-enriched dough will still create the flaky layers we want in a Danish.
Controlling Gluten DevelopmentEach time we roll out our dough, we’re developing gluten, a network of protein molecules called glutenin and gliadin that are responsible for the springy, chewy texture in bread, pizza, and noodles. (You can read more about that here.) While we do want some gluten development to provide structure for our pastry, we don’t want to develop so much gluten that our Danishes become tough and rubbery.
This is a bit of a balancing act, as fats like butter and eggs act as a tenderizer in dough by coating the proteins and preventing them from bonding as easily to each other. Since fats reduce gluten development, and since Danish dough is quite ample with fat, we need to turn to a higher-protein flour (i.e., one that forms gluten more readily) like bread flour to compensate. What also helps limit excessive gluten development is resting the dough between folds, which, in addition to keeping our dough and butter cold, helps gluten relax. The result of this gluten and fat balancing act is a dough that is tender yet stable, able to hold the high-moisture cheese filling without collapsing under it.
Using European-Style ButterThis recipe calls for European-style butter, which has a higher percentage of butterfat (typically 82-to-85%) and lends the pastries a richer flavor. “These butters,” writes Harold McGee in On Food and Cooking, “contain 10-20% less water, which can be an advantage when making flaky pastries.” Is it crucial to use European-style butter? No. But since so much of the pastry’s flavor comes from the quantity and quality of butter used, it’s worth considering using a higher-quality European-style butter, which is also often cultured and thus more full-flavored.
If you can’t find European-style butter, don’t fret—it may be some consolation to know that American and Canadian butters are required to have a minimum of 80% butterfat, so if you’re choosing between a butter with 80% butterfat and another with 82% butterfat, it’s highly unlikely it will make or break the recipe.
Making a Balanced Cream Cheese FillingWhat sets a truly superb Danish apart from a mediocre one isn’t just the dough—it’s also the filling. It may be tempting to beat cream cheese together with an ungodly amount of sugar and an egg yolk, but taking the time to make a few low-effort additions can mean the difference between a spectacular pastry and a subpar one; here, a little lemon juice adds brightness and acid, while vanilla brings a delicate floral note. Seasoning with just the right amount of salt highlights these subtle flavors.
Baking and Finishing the PastrySerious Eats / Greg DupreeAfter all your hard work, it’s time to trim, proof, and bake the pastries. You’ll portion the dough into four-inch squares, then pipe two tablespoons of cream cheese frosting into the center of each. Filling the pastries before they’ve proved allows the dough to puff around the cream cheese and lets us squeeze a bit more filling into each Danish. It’s crucial to properly proof the pastries before they bake—this helps to further develop both flavor and dough strength, resulting in crisp, flaky pastries with plenty of layers. Baked until golden brown and topped with a sprinkling of confectioners’ sugar, these Danishes will be the first you’ll actually want to try while they’re still fresh…and maybe even with a cup of coffee. You’ll have to put in the work to make them from start to finish, but you’ll also never be sad at the sight of a Danish again.
For the Danish Dough: In a medium bowl, whisk together warm water and the 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar until the sugar dissolves. Whisk in yeast until well-combined; let stand, uncovered, at room temperature until foamy, 5 to 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeIn the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat together bread flour, salt, and remaining 6 tablespoons granulated sugar on low speed until combined, about 15 seconds. Add egg and 84g (6 tablespoons) butter; pulse mixer between low speed and off until mixture resembles coarse crumbs, about 3 minutes. Add remaining 168g (12 tablespoons) butter; pulse mixer between low speed and off until butter is coated with flour, about 10 seconds. Stir cold milk into yeast mixture, then slowly add yeast mixture while pulsing mixer between low speed and off, until a shaggy dough forms, about 2 minutes. (There will be pieces of dough that have formed together, but it will not be a smooth or homogeneous dough.)
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeUsing a silicone spatula or a dough scraper, scrape dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Gently shape into a 7-inch square about 1 1/4-inch thick; the dough will be slightly sticky. Tightly wrap in plastic wrap; freeze until chilled, about 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeOn a lightly floured work surface, roll dough into a 18- by 9-inch rectangle (1/4-inch thick), with the long sides parallel to the counter edge. Fold the dough like a business letter: Fold dough into thirds (each section should be 6-inches wide) like a letter by bringing the right third over the center, then folding the left third over to create a smaller rectangle. (Use a bench scraper or the flat side of a chef’s knife to lift dough if necessary.) Transfer to a lightly floured 9- by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, about 45 minutes. Repeat rolling, folding, and chilling process 2 more times for a total of 3 folds. After the final fold, refrigerate dough for 1 hour 30 minutes or overnight.
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeFor the Cream Cheese Frosting: In a medium bowl, whisk together cream cheese, egg yolk, powdered sugar, lemon juice, vanilla, and salt until smooth. Using a silicone spatula, transfer the frosting to a pastry bag and secure the top with kitchen twine, a rubber band, or a chip clip; set aside at room temperature.
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeLine 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper; set aside. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a roughly 13-inch square (1/4-inch thick). Using a sharp chef’s knife or pizza cutter, trim edges into a 12-inch square; cut into nine 4-inch squares. Working with 1 square at a time, brush each corner of the square with beaten egg. Fold each corner into the center of the square (all corners should touch in the center) and press down gently to seal. Repeat with the 8 remaining squares of dough. Transfer to prepared baking sheets, placing each square 2 to 3 inches apart.
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeTo Bake the Pastries: Cut tip off the pastry bag to form a 1/2-inch hole. Gently press down in the center of the dough squares to create a small indentation; pipe the frosting in the center (about 2 tablespoons each; it’s okay if the mound of filling is taller than the dough.) Loosely cover with plastic wrap; let rise in a warm draft-free area (75°F or 24°C) until slightly puffed, about 45 minutes.
Serious Eats / Greg DupreePreheat oven to 425°F (220ºC) with racks in upper third and lower third positions. Remove and discard plastic wrap. Gently brush tops and sides of dough with beaten egg. (For best results, try not to get egg wash on the cut edges of the dough.) Bake until puffed and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Rotate baking sheets from top to bottom; reduce oven temperature to 375°F (with baking sheets in oven), and bake at 375°F until Danishes are puffed and deep golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes longer. (Keep a close eye during the last few minutes of baking; 1 tray may be ready before the other). Let cool slightly on baking sheets for 15 minutes. Garnish with additional powdered sugar; serve warm or at room temperature.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentStand mixer, silicone spatula, rolling pin, whisk, pastry bag,sharp chef’s knife or pizza cutter, two 18- by 13- inch rimmed baking sheets
Make-Ahead and StorageThe pastries are best eaten the day-of.
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeMy parents’ pasta salad was a feature at almost every cookout, picnic, and potluck of my childhood. Made with a bottle of Wish-Bone Italian dressing, the salad was filled with soggy rotini, a-touch-too-large hunks of salami and mozzarella, and canned black olives. While I have a nostalgic soft spot for it, the cook in me knows that it and many other pasta salads have some fatal flaws: They're usually served at the wrong temperature, the pasta is frequently too soft or too hard, and, more often than not, the whole shebang is tossed in an unpleasant, acerbic dressing. (Daniel certainly has some feelings about it.)
Pasta salad doesn’t have to be sad, though—it’s possible to make a spectacular one that’s full of flavor and texture. With careful consideration of technique, I went back at the pasta salad of my childhood, seeking ways to resolve its worst qualities and turn it into something even a pasta-salad skeptic would love. The following rules are what I've found to be essential to an excellent Italian-American pasta salad.
Rule 1: Overcook—Yes, Overcook—Your PastaAs Daniel has written previously, cooked pasta goes through retrogradation as it cools, where “the starch molecules reform into a more solid crystalline structure,” effectively going through the same staling process bread does. Overcooking your pasta by just two to three minutes means it’ll be just soft enough without being mushy, and as the pasta cools, it will firm up to become al dente once again.
Rule 2: Add the Acid—But Skip the VinaigretteLet’s be real: Nobody wants a pasta salad that’s too tart and oily from a vinaigrette. The solution is to skip the vinaigrette entirely by deconstructing it into more thoughtful and flavor-packed components, some with bright, punchy tartness and others that are rich and savory.
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeHere, I make a quick pickle of sorts by marinating juicy tomatoes and roasted red pepper in a mixture of lemon juice and red wine vinegar. I supplement these bright and fruity elements with pickled banana peppers, briny olives, and salty-tart capers. When mixed in with the pasta, they add just enough acidity and brightness without overpowering the dish.
I then dress the salad with a rich and flavorful oil made by crisping salami in olive oil. The rendered fat from crisped-up salami tames the tang and lends a deep savory flavor that balances the sweetness of the tomatoes and roasted red peppers.
Rule 3: Room Temperature Is the Right TemperatureWhile we generally don’t recommend having your food sit out at room temperature for extended periods of time (more than two hours and the risk of food-borne illness becomes more significant), you really do want to allow the pasta salad to come to room temperature before digging in. Cold pasta has muted flavors and a firm, rubbery texture, making each bite an unpleasant one.
Rule 4: Respect the MozzIt's easy to grab a tub of bocconcini and toss those little mozzarella balls into a pasta salad, but it's not the best way to incorporate the cheese. Due to their small size and the fact that they've often spent some time in the refrigerator case, bocconcini tend to be firm and bouncy, with a slick exterior that refuses to interact with the salad around it.
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeMuch better is to buy a ball of high-quality, fresh mozzarella, the kind that's tender and weeps drops of sweet milk when you cut into it. But don't cut into it! Instead, tear the mozzarella into shreds, creating a textured surface that will mingle with the oil and juices in the pasta salad, picking them up for each bite. And, because it's a good fresh mozzarella that's still soft, you won't have that unfortunate little-rubber-balls effect of store-bought bocconcini.
The lesson here is that Italian-American–style pasta salad has a lot going for it—if you take the time to give it the attention to detail it deserves.
Working directly over the flame of a gas burner or under a broiler, cook the red bell peppers, turning occasionally, until deeply charred all over, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a heatproof bowl, cover with plastic, and let stand 5 minutes. Place in a medium bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let stand at room temperature until cool enough to handle, about 15 minutes. Peel charred skin from bell peppers; discard skin and seeds. Slice peppers into 1/4-inch strips.
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeIn a large bowl, stir together tomatoes, shallot, lemon juice, red wine vinegar, crushed red pepper, and 2 teaspoons (6g) salt. Marinate, uncovered, at room temperature for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally and gently smashing some of the tomatoes using the back of a wooden spoon. Stir in sliced red bell peppers and 1/4 cup of oil; set aside.
Bring water to a boil in a 6- to 8-quart pot set over high heat. Add remaining 2 tablespoons (18g) salt and return to a vigorous boil over high. Add pasta, and cook for 2 minutes longer than the package directions for al dente, until pasta is tender.
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeWhile the pasta cooks, heat remaining 1/4 cup oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and 3 ounces (85g) salami; cook, stirring often, until garlic is light golden and salami starts to crisp along edges, 4 to 6 minutes; stir into tomato mixture.
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeDrain pasta in a colander. Add pasta, banana peppers, olives, capers, and remaining 3 ounces salami to tomato mixture, stirring to combine. Let stand, uncovered, at room temperature, until flavors meld, about 30 minutes. Stir in mozzarella and basil.
Serious Eats / Greg DupreeSpecial EquipmentTongs, 6- to 8-quart pot, nonstick skillet, colander
Make-Ahead and StorageStore in an air-tight container, refrigerated, for up to 1 day. Stir and allow salad to come to room temperature before serving.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubAt its core, an espresso machine pressurizes hot water through finely-ground coffee to pull a concentrated espresso shot—but even the term “pull” is a little old-fashioned. Originally, “pull” was used to describe baristas literally pulling on a spring-loaded lever that drove a piston through a column of hot water into the coffee. Nowadays, most espresso machines you see in cafes and in homes are semi-automatic.
In simple terms, a semi-automatic espresso machine has an electronic button or switch that the barista (or home barista) uses to start and stop the espresso shot. It’s a relatively user-friendly, cost-effective design that’s easier to operate than manual machines and usually more affordable than automatic and superautomatic machines (which can cost between $3,000 and $7,500 for home models). To help you wade through this wide category of equipment, we put together a list of our favorite semi-automatic options.
The Winners, at a Glance The Best Small Semi-Automatic Espresso Machine: Breville Bambino Plus * The Best Semi-Automatic Espresso Machine for Tinkerers: Gaggia Classic Pro * The Best Semi-Automatic Espresso Machine with a Built-In Grinder: Breville Barista Express Impress * An Entry-Level Dual Boiler Semi-Automatic Espresso Machine: Breville Dual Boiler * A Sturdier Dual Boiler Semi-Automatic Espresso Machine: Rancilio Silvia Pro X * A Splurge-Worthy Semi-Automatic Home Espresso Machine: La Marzocco Linea Micra * A Truly Professional Semi-Automatic Espresso Machine:* La Marzocco Linea Mini
Things to ConsiderSo, What Is the Difference Between Semi-Automatic and Automatic Espresso Machines?The control panel on the Gaggia Classic Pro has just three buttons: on/off, steam mode, and in the center, a switch that starts and stops the flow of water.Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezTo put it plainly, automatic machines are able to stop espresso shots automatically. You’re most likely to see one at a busy high-end coffee bar where automation helps move the line forward, but there are automatic home machines, too. The guts of both types of machines are extremely similar, with one key difference: automatic espresso machines have a flow meter. Most flow meters use a tiny magnet in the water line and track the number of times it spins as an espresso shot is running. It then uses this data to pump the same amount of water through the machine every time, and can even be programmed to the exact millimeter. While automatic machines are great, accurate flow meters are an extremely sensitive, expensive precision device, and even most commercial espresso machines don’t have them.
Semi-automatic espresso machines rely on a more basic way to stop each espresso shot: the user. While they require a bit more attention, semi-automatic machines are more affordable, have fewer complex parts, and are extremely reliable, making them a great option for a home espresso machine.
Hang on—Aren’t Those Breville Espresso Machines Automatic?While most Breville machines come with two programmable volume buttons, they weren't accurate enough for us to use them as automatic espresso machines.Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezTechnically, yes: but as we mentioned in the previous paragraph, accurate flow meters are extremely sensitive and expensive. In our testing, we found the flow meters in Breville machines were lacking in precision. Espresso recipes are extremely specific because just five milliliters of water can throw off the entire flavor of a shot, and the only machine we’ve used that’s that accurate is the La Marzocco GS/3 (which is $7,500). We still really, really like these Breville machines, but we had better success when we stopped the shots ourselves.
In the Intro You Mentioned Superautomatic Machines. What’s Up With Those? We recommend the Spinn over traditional superautomatic espresso machines, as it was more versatile, less expensive, and generally makes better tasting coffee.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubAh, yes: the superautomatic espresso machine. If you’ve ordered a drink at a large coffee chain, your drink was made on a commercial, superautomatic machine, though there are home versions, too. Superautomatic machines do everything: push a button, and they grind, dose, tamp, and brew. Many offer automatic milk frothing, too. Because there are so many moving parts, they’re expensive (around $2,000 for most entry level home models), not to mention a nightmare to maintain. Lastly, without human input on how much water or coffee is being used or how coarse or fine the grind is set, the espresso from these machines is rarely better than passable. They represent ultimate convenience, but we think the Spinn Coffee Maker, which is a one-touch brewer that uses a centrifugal brewing chamber, does a better job (and for half the price, too).
I Keep Hearing About Dual Boiler Vs. Single Boiler Machines—Does It Really Matter? The Rancilio Siliva Pro X has dual boilers so you can pull a shot and steam milk at the same time.Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezIt may sound like technical jargon, but yes—the number of boilers an espresso machine has matters a ton. Single boiler machines rely on one water boiler to heat water for brewing (around 200ºF) and for steaming milk (around 266ºF). Since these two functions happen at entirely different temperatures, you have to take turns between pulling a shot and steaming milk. Some machines (like the Breville Bambino Plus and the Barista Impress Express) can switch functions pretty quickly, but the Gaggia Classic Pro takes 45 seconds to heat up and steam milk—long enough for the espresso shot you just pulled to begin to oxidize and turn sour. Dual boiler machines offer three main advantages: simultaneous espresso pulling and milk steaming, precision temperature control, and steam power. With separate boilers for brewing and steam, you can do both at the same time. Plus, separate steam boilers are usually bigger and offer more power (which helps create better textured microfoam for smooth latte art, if you want to show off). There are two major downsides to dual boiler machines, though: they’re bigger, and cost much more.
What Does PID Stand for and Why Does It Make Better Coffee?Without PID-driven precision temperature control, the Gaggia Classic Pro requires you to purge water to regulate water temperature.Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezLots of machines advertise that they have a PID controller, but there’s not a lot of information out there about what that actually is and what it does. PID stands for “proportional integral derivative,” which is an algorithm that can be used to predict temperature swings and then adjust the boiler to correct them. It’s a common piece of technology in immersion circulators and high-end toaster ovens to stabilize temperatures but was originally popularized in espresso machines through home enthusiasts who liked to modify their equipment. Without a PID, the brew boiler might swing 20ºF as the heating cycle kicks on; with a PID, the temperature can be stabilized within 0.1ºF. High temperatures can bring out bitter flavors, while low-temperature shots might taste sour. Having a PID in your machine eliminates guesswork and leads to more consistent, better-tasting espresso.
Are Expensive Espresso Machines Really Worth It? It's easier to pull great shots on a pricier machine, like the Linea Micra, but all of our picks can make tasty espresso.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThis is a loaded question, but it’s also very personal. All of our picks are able to make great tasting espresso and aerate microfoam into milk, it’s just that the expensive machines do it better. How much better? Well, that’s tough to say. The most expensive machines on this list are a lot easier to work on, but beginners might not know enough about espresso minutiae to warrant the upgrade. At the same time, an expert will find it easier to pull a great tasting shot on a $500 machine than a beginner, but might long for the precision of a pricier piece of equipment. This guide hopefully can help you balance the features you’re looking for against your budget, and all of these machines are great options for home use.
Okay, But What About Grinders? The precision grind adjustment of the Baratza Sette 270 makes it our favorite espresso grinder.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubYou’re right—an espresso machine isn’t anything without a great espresso grinder. In our testing, the Baratza Encore ESP came out as a really solid option to pair with a lower-cost machine for a budget-friendly duo. It can manage precision espresso grinds while also tackling coarser grinds for drip brewing, making it an excellent choice for those who want a grinder that can do double duty. The Baratza Sette 270was our favorite grinder, hands down, but is a little pricey for beginners. It has a continuous micro-adjustment lever for fine-tuning your espresso shots, and its unique burr design holds onto less coffee and makes it super easy to clean. For the high-end machines, the Mazzer Lux D packs the power of a commercial espresso grinder into a body that fits on most counters.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Semi-Automatic Espresso MachineSerious Eats / Jesse RaubWhile there are a number of different machines with an array of features and varying price points, a great semi-automatic espresso machine should be easy to use and be able to pull a cafe-quality shot of espresso. It should also have a powerful enough steam wand to create microfoam and be able to switch between brewing and steaming modes easily (if it doesn’t have dual boilers). Ideally, it has precision temperature regulation via a PID controller (though it’s not necessary). Ultimately, a great semi-automatic espresso machine lets you make the drinks you want at a price point that matches your budget.
What we liked: Not only were we impressed with this machine's espresso, but we also really loved the automatic steam wand, which shuts off when it hits the right temperature, ensuring silky, well-aerated foam every time. We were also surprised by how quickly the machine heats up—it took just seconds for the machine to reach brewing temperature, which is regulated by a PID. It’s a great all-around machine for beginners and enthusiasts on a budget, and is countertop friendly.
What we didn’t like: The quality of the microfoam from the automatic steam wand wasn’t quite as good as a skilled home barista could produce with a manual steam wand. This machine also has programmable buttons for single or double shots (technically making it an automatic espresso machine), but they weren’t very accurate.
Price at time of publish: $500.
Key Specs Dimensions: 8 x13 x 12 inches * Weight: 11 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 54 millimeters * Capacity: 1 liter * Boiler: Single * PID: Yes * Warranty: 2-year limited product warranty * Comes with:* 54mm tamper, precision dosing tool, 16 fl.oz / 480ml stainless steel milk jug, 1- and 2- cup single wall and dual wall filter baskets, cleaning tool, cleaning disc
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezWhat we liked: The Gaggia Classic Pro pulled incredible tasting shots that matched the quality of machines three times its price, and its commercial-sized grouphead meant we could swap the filter baskets for high-end versions. There’s also tons of information online about how to modify your shot-pulling experience in order to bring out incredible coffee quality, like how to temperature surf the brew boiler or amp up the steam pressure. It’s a great option for anyone willing to invest a little extra time and who considers pulling espresso a hobby.
What we didn’t like: This machine lacks a PID controller to regulate its temperature, requiring the user to monitor the brew boiler to keep it from scorching the coffee. It also takes a while to heat up for making steam, and even then the pressure isn’t very strong. This machine is better suited for an espresso-focused person who occasionally enjoys a latte.
Price at time of publish: $400.
Key Specs Dimensions: 9 x15 x 9.5 inches * Weight: 16 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 58 millimeters * Capacity: 2 liters * Boiler: Single * PID: No * Warranty: 1-year limited warranty * Comes with:* Single and double single- and dual- wall filter baskets, plastic tamper
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezWhat we liked: Assisted tamping and automatic coffee portioning automate the two trickiest parts of pulling a shot, making this machine a great option for beginners or those who just don’t enjoy tinkering. It heats up quickly and can jump to steam mode in just seconds, producing enough pressure for good-quality microfoam. To get more in depth about how the built-in grinder works with the tamping lever, you can read our dedicated review here.
What we didn’t like: The built-in grinder is handy, but lacks the precision and power that some of our favorite espresso grinders have. And even though it has a built-in grinder, it’s still more expensive than some standalone grinders and espresso machine pairings that we would recommend.
Price at time of publish: $800.
Key Specs Dimensions: 13 x 15 x 16 inches * Weight: 24 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 54 millimeters * Capacity: 2 liters * Boiler: Single * PID: Yes * Warranty: 2-year repair or replacement limited warranty * Comes with:* 480ml stainless steel milk jug, 1- and 2- cup single and dual wall filter baskets, Water filter holder with filter, precision trimming tool, cleaning tablets, allen key, steam wand cleaning tool, cleaning disc, cleaning brush, descale powder
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhat we liked: Though we haven’t officially tested the Breville Dual Boiler, our staff has a lot of experience with this machine and highly recommend it. It’s the cheapest dual boiler machine out there, and even though it’s a big price jump compared to most of Breville’s machines, it’s packed with features. Dual boilers allow the user to pull shots and steam milk at the same time, and you can even tweak your brew temperature. With a commercial-sized filter basket and a grouphead that keeps temperatures steady, the Dual Boiler offers more precision than any of its siblings, and it also has a built-in shot-timer. It’s an excellent choice for anyone who wants to step up their espresso game, but who still wants the user-experience details of a Breville machine (like wheels to help it move around the counter, a pop-up sign when the drip tray is full, and cleaning instructions right on the water reservoir).
What we didn’t like: At this price point, we wish it wasn’t mostly made out of plastic. We also wish the steam pressure was more powerful, so it could create a silkier microfoam.
Price at time of publish: $1,600.
Key Specs Dimensions: 15.9 x 14.7 x 14.9 inches * Weight: 30 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 58 millimeters * Capacity: 2.5 liters * Boiler: Dual * PID: Yes * Warranty: 2-year repair warranty * Comes with:* 58mm razor dosing tool, 58mm stainless steel portafilter. 1-cup & 2-cup single and dual wall filter baskets, integrated tamper, 16-ounce stainless steel milk jug, cleaning kit, water hardness test strip, water filter holder and water filter
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhat we liked: The Silvia Pro X crams a lot of commercial features—and parts—into a home machine. Aside from the machine’s sturdy stainless steel body, it also offers precision temperature control and lets the user fine tune the exact flavor profile they want out of their espresso. We also really liked the power behind the steam wand, which made it easy to make excellent microfoam. This is a great option for anyone with a larger budget who wants a machine that’s built to last.
What we didn’t like: It’s an expensive machine and only offers minor improvements over the less pricey options on this list. Still, it is excellent.
Price at time of publish: $1,940.
Key Specs Dimensions: 16.5 x 10 x 15.2 inches * Weight: 44 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 58 millimeters * Capacity: 2 liters * Boiler: Dual * PID: Yes * Warranty: 1-year parts and labor warranty * Comes with:* Black handle double spouted commercial portafilter, 7-gram single basket, 18-gram double basket, rubber backflush insert, stainless steel tamper, water softening pouch, coffee scoop
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhat we liked: La Marzocco is known for its precision commercial espresso machines, and they were able to make a home version that feels like working on the real thing. The Linea Micra is an incredible feat of engineering. Not only can it pull shots and steam milk simultaneously, it also has precision temperature control and a commercial-style pump, all packed into a kitchen-countertop-friendly body. Oh, and you can use the app that pairs with it to schedule on/off times. It was a dream to pull shots with the Linea Micra, and you can read more about how much we liked it in our review.
What we didn’t like: The only real issue with this machine is the price: it’s twice the cost of other dual boiler machines on this list, and while the build quality is worth it, it also puts the Linea Micra in a category that only the most dedicated enthusiasts would be willing to shell out for.
Price at time of publish: $3,900.
Key Specs Dimensions: 12 x 12 by 15 inches * Weight: 40 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 58 millimeters * Capacity: 2 liters * Boiler: Dual * PID: Yes * Warranty: 2-year parts and labor warranty * Comes with:* Convertible portafilter with dual-spout and single-spout attachment, 7-gram, 14-gram, 17-gram, and 21-gram baskets, 58mm convex La Marzocco tamper, 12oz steaming pitcher, Purocaf Cleaning Solution
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhat we liked: The Linea Mini has all the same features of the Linea Micra, just in a bigger body with larger boilers. It’s often used for pop-up coffee events when someone needs a portable machine with a lot of power, and it delivers. And while other machines in this list have good steam pressure, the Linea Mini’s steam wand goes toe-to-toe with any commercial machine twice its size. It may be overkill for most people’s needs, but for anyone who wants cafe-quality espresso at home, the Mini is one of the best options available.
What we didn’t like: In contrast with its name, the Linea Mini is big—it weighs around 80 pounds when full. It’s also extremely expensive, dwarfing any other espresso machine’s cost on this list.
Price at time of publish: $5,900.
Key Specs Dimensions: 14 x 21 x 16 inches * Weight: 70 pounds * Portafilter diameter: 58 millimeters * Capacity: 2 liter * Boiler: Dual * PID: Yes * Warranty: 2-year parts and labor warranty * Comes with:* Break-away double spouted portafilter with standard rubber handle, 7-gram, 14-gram, 17-gram, and 21-gram baskets, 58mm convex La Marzocco tamper, 12-ounce steaming pitcher, Purocaf Cleaning Solution
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubFAQsWhat is a semi-automatic espresso machine? A semi-automatic espresso machine uses a single button to start and stop an espresso shot. There are no preset volumes on a semi-automatic espresso machine the way there are on an automatic/volumetric machine, requiring the user to stop shots.
How much should you pay for a good espresso machine? We have recommendations for espresso machines at a variety of price points. The lowest-priced espresso machine we recommend is the Gaggia Classic Pro, which is around $400, while the most expensive machine, the La Marzocco Lina Mini, is $5,900. There are a lot of great models in between these two machines with various jumps in price, but in general, pricier espresso machines make it easier to pull a delicious espresso shot and have more powerful steam pressure.
How do I clean my espresso machine?Most espresso machines are cleaned through backflushing, which involves putting a filter basket with no holes into the portafilter, adding coffee detergent, and running the grouphead. This flushes water and coffee detergent up through the grouphead to clear out any old coffee oils—but before you attempt this, check with the manufacturer’s instructions. Some machines don’t have the right type of valve that lets you backflush, and this could damage the machine.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSweet, tart, and jammy, strawberry rhubarb pie is the quintessential spring dessert. Come spring and early summer, I scour the farmers' market for those bright crimson rhubarb stalks, ready to load the trunk of my car with as much as I can fit. Rhubarb season is fleeting—and the only acceptable move is to take full advantage of the moment by buying pounds and pounds of it to turn it into crisps, pickles, compotes, and, of course, pie.
In theory, making a strawberry rhubarb pie is easy. You chop up your fruit (though I should point out that rhubarb is technically a vegetable), toss it with sugar and your thickener of choice, encase it in pie dough, and bake until bubbling and golden brown.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe only problem? Strawberries and rhubarb both have low pectin levels and a lot of moisture—a recipe for a watery, mushy mess, especially if you don’t use the right kind and amount of thickener. There are also questions of how best to handle the fillings. What's the best size to cut the strawberry and rhubarb? Do they need to be macerated first to draw out moisture? What additional flavorings are good? And what's an ideal ratio of strawberries to rhubarb?
In my attempt to nail down the perfect strawberry rhubarb pie, I baked a dozen, and did further experiments that zeroed in on some of the filling variables until I came up with my ideal version. I’m talking about a pie that balances the sweetness of strawberries with the tanginess of rhubarb, with a just-set, slightly saucy texture of softened fruit that still holds some of its shape.
The Right Ratio of Fruit and Dicing DecisionsBecause I wanted a flavorful dessert that allowed both the strawberries and rhubarb to shine, I started with a 1:1 ratio by weight of strawberries to rhubarb, both finely diced. What I didn’t realize was just how much water the strawberries would contribute to the pie filling. Even with an adequate amount of thickener, the pies made with equal parts strawberries and rhubarb were invariably too loose. You might wonder, why not just use more thickener? We could, but simply increasing starch until the liquid is thick enough solves one problem while creating another. Stabilizing excess liquid with even more starch results in a stretchy, slimy filling that—while certainly thicker—is not appealing.
With this in mind, I adjusted the ratios to reduce water from the strawberries, opting for 2 parts rhubarb to 1 part strawberries. Instead of a fine dice—which I suspect exposed a little too much surface area that allowed more water to leach out and created a runny filling—I opted for 1/2-inch pieces. This was the ideal size of fruit: large enough for the pieces to remain distinct, but small enough to soften and cook down into a slightly jammy filling.
While this fixed the texture problem, it threw off the flavor balance. I wanted the pie to taste distinctly like a combination of strawberries and rhubarb, but now it was too rhubarb-forward. To make up for the decrease in fresh strawberries, I folded in a few tablespoons of strawberry jam, which helped intensify the berry flavor without contributing any additional water.
Preventing a Runny Filling: What Kind and How Much Thickener Should You Use?Take a look at most fruit pie recipes, and you’ll see that they typically call for all-purpose flour, cornstarch, potato starch, or tapioca starch as a thickener. This is because most fruit used in pie fillings (think berries, stone fruit, or apples) hold plenty of water that’s released during the cooking process. Without a thickener, you’d end up with a runny pie—but there’s only so much a thickening agent can do to help you achieve a just-set filling that’s neither soup nor sludge.
The best pies—ones with bright, fresh fruit flavor and a jammy texture—depend on proper moisture management, which can be achieved multiple ways. My testing already addressed the ratio of strawberries to rhubarb and how large to dice them, but I was simultaneously tinkering with other variables to zero in on my ideal flavor and texture. One of those variables: the type and quantity of thickener. As I wrote above, more thickener doesn’t solve all problems. In order to get my filling to work, I had to not only switch up the ratio of fruit but also experiment with a different kind of thickening agent.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI had started off using tapioca starch, former Serious Eats editor Stella Parks’ preferred pie thickener, which sets fruit fillings without becoming overly gloppy. I used 5.5% of the total weight of fruit, Stella’s recommended amount of starch. But even after reducing the amount of fresh strawberries in my filling, it still wasn’t quite enough to absorb the amount of liquid unleashed by them. When I increased the amount of starch to 6%, the filling managed to somehow be both too loose and too gelatinous, underscoring the point that simply adding more thickener wasn't going to be the sole solution to the problem.
Curious to see if there were any other options for thickening pie filling, I noticed many recipes called for minute, or quick-cooking, tapioca pearl fragments. My first attempt with minute tapioca resulted in what one of my neighbors described as a “tapioca boba pie situation,” with little pearls nestled among the fruit. Cute? Yes. Delicious? Yes. But not exactly what I was going for.
Minute tapioca comes coarsely ground in the package, making it a little harder to evenly distribute among the fruit. I wondered: what would happen if I ground it up in a food processor with the granulated sugar and salt? A little fussy, perhaps, but the resulting filling was exactly the texture I was looking for: just set but jammy enough to slightly ooze out of the pie when cut into. Grinding the minute tapioca seemed to hit a sweet spot, texture-wise, that tapioca starch wasn't. Instead of the gluey gel created by tapioca starch, ground minute tapioca managed to set the filling's juices in a more pleasant, less stretchy way (this could have something to do with the relative fineness of the grind; tapioca starch is an even finer powder than minute tapioca ground in a food processor).
To Macerate or Not to Macerate?In my ongoing question to manage moisture while preserving the fresh and fruity character of the filling, I also wanted to find out whether macerating the strawberries and rhubarb first might be a good idea. By tossing the fruit with sugar and/or a liquid like lemon juice or alcohol, water is drawn out via osmosis, which simultaneously removes excess water while softening the fruit and concentrating its flavor.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSome recipes call for incorporating the macerating liquid back into the filling, but macerating 8 cups of fruit gave me about 1 1/2 cups of liquid—which is a lot to add back into a pie. Discarding the juices, though, would lead to a loss of valuable flavor and also a less consistent application of sugar in the filling, since some of it would go down the drain with the juices. I decided to reduce the liquid by half to form a syrup, and then fold it back into the filling, in the hopes it would intensify the fruitiness of the pie while removing unwanted moisture. The resulting pie was delicious, but macerating the strawberries and rhubarb with sugar broke down too much of its structure and led to a mushy filling once cooked.
What worked best was allowing the fruit to sit with the sugar and the finely ground minute tapioca for 15 to 30 minutes before baking, which gives the starch time to hydrate and absorb any excess liquid before the heat of the oven draws even more out.
The FlavoringsI seasoned my first few pies with lemon juice and zest, but paired with the natural tang of rhubarb, the filling was a touch too sharp. In search of something more subtle, I tried a variety of flavorings, including lemon juice, orange juice, and rosewater.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI ultimately opted for vanilla paste, which lends a delicate, floral aroma that complements the sweetness of the strawberries and tartness of the rhubarb. If you don't have vanilla paste, you can substitute with equal parts vanilla extract. It won’t be as concentrated in flavor as vanilla paste, but will do the trick. If you have some handy, another great option is elderflower syrup, which has a bright, effervescent, and floral quality.
Baking and Cooling the PieWith the filling figured out, all that’s left is baking. It's best to set the assembled pie in the freezer for 15 minutes before baking (not including the 15 to 30 minutes of macerating time), which not only allows the gluten in the dough to relax, but keeps the butter cold for the crispiest, flakiest layers. (You can read more about it in Stella’s pie crust recipe.)
Which brings us to what may be the most difficult part of this entire process: After you’ve baked the pie, you’ll have to allow it to fully cool, a process that can take up to four hours. Though you may be tempted to slice into the pie as soon as it comes out of the oven (or even within the first hour), it’s essential that the pie cools so the filling can set. After this much effort to manage moisture and perfect the filling, it's a shame to watch it flood the pie plate.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 400ºF (205ºC).
Place pie dough on a well-floured surface. Using a rolling pin, roll 1 disc of pie dough into a circle roughly 14 inches in diameter. Transfer pie dough to a 9-inch pie plate, lightly cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor a Solid-Top Pie: Roll remaining dough as before; place dough on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper, lightly cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate while you prepare the filling.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor Lattice-Top Pie: Roll into a 9- by 15-inch rectangle instead. Using a pizza cutter, fluted pastry wheel, or knife, cut dough into a dozen 10-inch strips, each about 1-inch wide. Set dough strips on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper, lightly cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate while you prepare the filling.
In the bowl of a food processor, pulse together the granulated sugar, minute tapioca, and salt until the tapioca is finely ground.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large bowl, use a silicone spatula to toss rhubarb and strawberries together with the sugar, tapioca, and salt mixture. Fold in the vanilla paste and strawberry jam and toss to evenly distribute; set aside to macerate for at least 15 minutes and up to 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezScrape filling to the prepared pie shell and top with pie dough or weave strips into a lattice.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing a pair of kitchen scissors, trim edges of both pie crusts until they overhang the edge of the pie plate by 1/2 inch all the way around. Fold edges of both pie crusts down together, tucking them in between the bottom crust and the pie plate and working your way all the way around the pie until everything is tucked. Use the forefinger on your left hand and the thumb and forefinger on your right hand to crimp the edges. If using a solid top crust, cut 5 slits in the top with a sharp paring knife for ventilation.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezChill pie in the freezer for 15 minutes. When ready to bake, brush pie with egg wash. Bake for 15 minutes, then lower heat to 375ºF (190ºC) and bake until the juices are bubbling and the crust is golden brown, 45 to 55 minutes. Remove from oven, transfer to a cooling rack, and allow pie to cool completely before serving, about 4 hours.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentRolling pin, strainer, silicone spatula, pizza cutter or pastry wheel, kitchen scissors, paring knife, pastry brush
NotesFeel free to substitute with an equal amount of vanilla extract if you don’t have vanilla paste.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe pie is best eaten within three days; store at cool room temperature and avoid refrigerating as it can result in a soggy crust. Once cooled, the pie can be frozen for up to 1 month and thawed in the fridge overnight.
Serious Eats / Sarah MaidenThe History of Avocados: Pulp-FictionalizedPrologueThe beast ambles slowly through a dense patch of trees, its hulking limbs moving in calculated, plodding steps. Its bulbous snout sniffs at the forest floor, taking in the rich aroma of earth after an early morning rain. Mist hangs between the trees as clouds roll through this shaded wood, high up in a prehistoric sierra somewhere around present-day Mexico. The animal lifts up on its hind legs, each as thick as an elephant's, raising its squat head high up into the trees. It nibbles a few leaves, then drops back down on all fours with enough weight to push its long, bony claws deep into the ground. The leaves are a pleasant snack, but not what it seeks. It continues on, sniffing, searching for something in particular—a very special, very peculiar fruit its kind has been eating for longer than history can remember.
Sarah Maiden / Serious Eats
A breeze blows and the beast catches a scent, ripe and herbal. It moves towards the smell, then comes upon the treasure: large, dark-green, egg-like forms on the forest floor, dropped by the tree some days before at their peak of maturity. Since then, the fruits have ripened further, the firm, waxy flesh melting into a silky, buttery mass.
The fruit is an ancient one, from an ancient tree, among the first ever to flower and fruit. It's an odd one too, different from the rest. Instead of the sweetness of sugar offered by most other fruit on Earth, this reptilian-skinned orb proffers itself via the caloric payload of ample fat, an energy powerhouse that's long-lasting and deeply satisfying. It also has an unusually large seed, a curious characteristic given the whole purpose of an edible fruit is to have the seed be digested by an animal and deposited elsewhere.
With an eager tongue darting in and out, the beast gobbles up its bounty, rapidly chomping and swallowing the baseball-size fruits with golf ball-size pits large enough to choke a direwolf, one after the next as if they were mere grapes.
This is a special relationship that has formed between this very specific beast and this lone fruit over hundreds of thousands—perhaps millions—of years of coevolution. The beast, one of the long-extinct mammalian megafauna that proliferated across the Earth after the dinosaurs ceded their reign, is large enough to eat and digest the entirety of this weird, otherworldly fruit despite its overgrown seed, making it possible to spread the seed after it passes through its digestive system. The fruit is an outlier among outliers, its survival totally reliant on this gentle and massive creature to spread and propagate its seed.
The fruit is eternally dependent on the beast, the beast endlessly sustained by the fruit. But a chill wind blows, colder than most and carrying with it a warning of changes to come.
Chapter 1: The ArrivalSerious Eats / Sarah MaidenIt's midday and the band of humans stop to rest and drink. They've been on the move for months, traveling gradually south as they seek warmer weather and more plentiful sources of food to eat. It wasn't long before that they were still marching through the ice, robed in heavy mammoth skins, their own skin chapped and blistered anywhere the raw, freezing wind and sleet could reach. In the cold, they had lost their great elder, and a baby had arrived. Now the baby is walking and the sun cuts through the trees as they climb higher into more comfortable mountain air.
A few members of the band stretch out on ground to rest while others gnaw on dried giant bear meat, a kill that has yielded weeks of food for the pack of fourteen nomads. Two others crouch at a nearby stream, filling empty waterskins with ice-melt until they're heavy and swollen. The baby toddles around, peeking at her family from behind trees and climbing on small rocks. She spies a tree full of funny fruit and traipses over to it.
Suddenly there's a wild grunt and the baby cries. At once all are up and racing towards the sounds. It's a blur as the beast rears, its gnarled claws illuminated in a beam of sunlight. A spear slices the air and splits the giant's throat, cutting it down in a ragged heap. The baby is safe, the misunderstood monster dead, and at its feet an alien fruit, unlike any they've seen before.
Chapter 2: Anthro-SupremacySarah Maiden / Serious EatsThousands of years have passed. The humans have conquered this land and stitched it together into a network of farming villages and cities. The beasts are gone, relentlessly pressed into extinction by hunters and a changed climate. The ice that had descended from the north is gone too. But the bizarre fruit not only remains, it has spread in the hands of the humans, who have now taken over the task of carefully tending to its trees. It is now growing in many parts of North, Central, and South America, and the West Indies, split into dozens upon dozens of varieties and eaten in countless ways.
The fruit will take many names—āhuacatl in Nahuatl will one day become aguacate in Spanish, then avocado in English. People will eat it blended into sauces and shakes, smashed into dips, and spread on a trillion twee toasts, digitized trillions of times more as social media uploads and impressions. Most of them will never spend much time at all thinking of this odd, fatty fruit and the singular story that must have birthed it. Few will wonder why the pits are so large, or dare imagine what kind of colossal creature was once able to swallow them whole.
We don't give thanks to that beast whose biology helped create the avocado, its contribution lost to time. The animal was a victim of its overgrown frame, the same one that allowed it to swallow avocados whole so that they could spread and thrive.
How to Store and Ripen Your AvocadosCutting into under- or over-ripened avocados at the precise moment you most need perfectly ripe ones is a rite of passage, the most universal and frustrating human common denominator. But—wait for it—it doesn't have to be. Here's our guide to what you need to know about storing avocados to ensure timely ripeness, followed by our tips on how to speed the process.
Breakfast RecipesAvocado Smoothie This ultra-creamy avocado smoothie gets its sweet, tangy flavor from frozen mangoes, orange juice, and a ripe banana.
The primary flavors come from the orange juice, mango, and banana, which together provide a pleasant sweet-tart balance. The banana also adds fiber and body to the shake, which is improved even further by the rich silkiness of the avocado.
Eggs Baked in AvocadoThe runny yolk surrounded by creamy, tender avocado is a true game changer.
The texture of the avocado is not really altered by a quick 10 minutes in the oven. Garnish with whole grain mustard and chopped chives, and you have a new take on brunch that will be a crowd pleaser. As an added bonus, any leftovers are great on top of a tart salad for a quick lunch the next day.
Lunch RecipesChicken Salad With Avocado, Corn, and Miso DressingMix up your classic chicken salad with this summery variation made with sweet corn, avocado, and the juiciest poached chicken tossed with a light and creamy miso dressing. Cooking the chicken sous-vide allows you to cook it to a lower temperature than traditional methods, guaranteeing moister meat while maintaining food safety standards.
Tofu and Kale Salad With Avocado, Grapefruit, and Miso-Tahini DressingThe base of this salad is great no matter what you do with it mainly because it has to do with the texture of those three main ingredients. Crisp tofu, creamy avocado, and juicy grapefruit.
Add some chopped raw kale and chickpeas? Delicious. Add a splash of fish sauce (for a non-vegan version) and some toasted pita bread croutons? Fantastic.
Dinner and Dessert RecipesAvocado FriesCrunchy with golden brown panko on the outside and buttery within, avocado fries are a low-effort, high-reward snack that come together in less than 30 minutes.
Tossing the panko with olive oil results in a crisper coating for the avocado fries. Using ripe but slightly firm avocados makes it easier to dip and coat the fries.
Classic GuacamoleProperly handling the avocados and flavorings yields the most flavorful guacamole with the best texture. Pounding (or processing) the aromatics with salt into a paste results in a finished guac that's noticeably more flavorful.
Mashing the avocados in a molcajete or with a whisk produces the ideal chunky texture.
Vegan Chickpea Cakes With Mashed AvocadoThese vegan falafel-esque patties made with chickpeas and bulgur wheat have a crunchy breadcrumb and are served with mashed avocado for a rich and creamy texture.
A bit of mashed avocado adds brightness, richness, and creamy texture to the mix, while a nice mixed green salad rounds it all out.
Avocado Chocolate MousseThe secret to ultra-creamy and velvety smooth vegan chocolate mousse? Ripe avocados.
The avocados work so well because they manage to stand in for both the meringue, which makes the dessert just light enough, and the mixture of yolks, melted chocolate, and cream, which lends traditional mousse its rich flavor and texture.
Vegan Avocado Lime Ice Cream Recipe Buttery avocados brightened with lime make for smooth, creamy, dairy-free ice cream.
Add lime juice in small increments to taste—too little and the ice cream turns out bland, too much and it becomes overly savory.
The Molcajete We Love for GuacamoleThis traditional Mexican mortar and pestle is often faked with concrete instead of the lava stone it should be made from, but this one's the real deal—and perfect for your next batch of guac.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAvocados occupy an interesting place among commercially popular fruits. Unlike most other fruit, avocados do not ripen on the tree—they only begin ripening off the tree after reaching full maturity. But then the race to ripeness is off and running, and, in the case of avocados, that race is relatively quick, with limited opportunities for long-term storage.
These two facts put the concerns of commercial avocado growers, shippers, and vendors exactly opposite of those of the home cook. Those in the avocado industry want to find as many ways as possible to delay ripening of the picked fruit for as long as possible, buying them as much time as possible to get the avocados from the filed to your kitchen counter in good condition. Through lots of study, they've become pretty good at that—by lowering temperatures, reducing environmental oxygen and boosting carbon dioxide, shrink-wrapping or waxing the fruit, and other techniques, the avocado industry can manage to keep the fruit in its mature-but-unripe state all the way to the point of sale, despite significant shipping distances and other challenges.
The home cook, on the other hand, usually wants to know how the heck to speed up ripening so they can eat the darned thing. This can present a timing challenge when shopping for and eating avocados because, to put it bluntly, perfectly ripe avocados are a pain in the ass to find. The window of time in which they are absolutely perfect—soft and tender with no brown spots or streaks—is notoriously short. It can make planning an avocado-based party a harrowing experience. Will my avocados ripen in time for game day? What if they turn brown?
Fortunately, there are a few ways to moderate the rate at which they ripen, and then there are some ways other articles on this topic recommend, but we don't. Read on for more.
How to Choose a Quality Avocado When ShoppingWe've all seen those avocados that seem perfect on the outside, but once you cut into them, a series of deep brown stripes and striations appear. What's up with that?
Unfortunately, it's not something that can be predicted or prevented. It's caused by uneven enzymatic action inside the avocado as it's developing and is exacerbated by extreme weather conditions and other seasonal, environmental, and agricultural factors.
For Hass avocados, you can expect the likelihood of this phenomenon to increase starting in December and maxing out around February. (Ack, Super Bowl season!)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAnother common flaw in some avocados are woody strings that stretch through the flesh. These strings are part of the plant's vascular strands, responsible for transporting nutrients into the fruit. They're actually always there, but they only become noticeably woody and stringy later in the season as the avocado becomes more mature.
Unfortunately, just as with the brown spots, there's no way to predict which avocados will have these strands until you've cut into it, aside from knowing that the likelihood of encountering them goes up later in the growing season, with fruit harvested in the late summer and early fall (though this will vary depending on the avocado variety and growing region).
How to Know If an Avocado Is RipeWhile the color of the avocado's skin can change as ripening progresses, that is not a reliable way to determine perfect ripeness, since avocado skin color can vary from variety to variety and fruit to fruit. Better is to gauge ripeness by touch: Using your fingers, very gently press on the avocado near the stem end (that's where the avocado was once attached to the tree). You want to feel a slight tenderness and give. If the avocado is very firm, it's not ready; if it feels soft and mushy, it's gone too far.
The Best Ways to Ripen Avocados: TestedRipening in avocados and many other fruits is regulated by a gas called ethylene. It's produced naturally by the fruit itself and is intended to make sure that all the fruit in one area ripens at the same time. The higher the concentration of ethylene, the faster your fruit ripens. That's why you'll see instructions to leave underripe avocados or bananas in paper bags—it concentrates ethylene and causes fast ripening.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLeft on its own, it generally takes an underripe avocado somewhere in the range of three-to-five days when stored in a paper bag at room temperature. If you need your avocados sooner, you will need to turn to other fruit.
How to Ripen Avocados QuicklyIn side-by-side tests tests, avocados from the supermarket showing no softness at all take between three-to-five days to ripen in a brown paper bag. Throw a banana in there (an ethylene powerhouse), and you can bring that range down to two-to-three days. It's not instant, but it does give you a wider range of control over having a ripe avocado when you need it.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezYou could, for instance, buy several avocados, leaving some out in the open kitchen air, some in a brown paper bag, and yet a few more in a second brown paper bag with a banana added. By doing so, you'd stagger their ripeness-reaching days, with the banana-ripened avocados ready in a couple days, the paper bag ones a day or two after that, and the open-air ones ready right on the heels of those, assuming they all started at the same stage of un-ripeness.
Can You Ripen an Avocado in the Microwave?This is one of those popular internet and social media tips that sound so good, we all just want to believe it's true. You can rapidly ripen an avocado in the microwave?! Thank you, TikTok!
But we're sorry to say, having tried it ourselves, it's a terrible method.
The truth is, using the microwave (or a low oven for that matter) does not ripen an avocado at all, it cooks it. Indeed, there are similarities between cooking and ripening: In both cases the fruit's flesh softens as cell walls weaken, leading to a more tender texture. On top of that, new flavors and aromas develop. But the way the texture changes, and the nature of the flavor and aroma changes are not comparable between ripening and (even very, very gentle) cooking. While a properly ripened avocado grows buttery and creamy as time passes, a microwaved one becomes slick and sweaty, and soft like a lit candle—overly mushy in the hotter spots and still too firm in others.
The flavor of a microwaved avocado, though, is by far its greatest failing. We would describe it as re-warmed, undercooked chicken, a bizarre combination that somehow manages to smell simultaneously of the crudeness of raw poultry and stink of reheated poultry. A microwaved avocado might be easier to chew, but it's not easier to swallow.
How to Store Ripe Avocados for LaterOnce ripened, an avocado will start to produce brown spots and streaks within about two days if left at room temperature. However, refrigerating a ripened avocado can increase that window up to around five days, though avocados are susceptible to chilling damage, so the will begin to show signs of browning if left too long.
The best way to guarantee perfect avocados for a Sunday night game? Buy them the Monday before, ripen them at room temperature in a brown paper bag and refrigerate them as soon as they soften.
How to Prevent Avocados From BrowningWhat about leftover avocado? Any way to keep it from browning? Oxygen is the enemy of avocados—it's what causes them to turn that unsightly brown. Plastic wrap works alright on cut avocado halves, but even plastic wrap is oxygen-permeable. In our tests, avocados didn't last more than about eight hours wrapped in plastic before visible browning occurred.
The old rub-with-oil-and-place-face-down-on-an-oiled-plate works fine if you've got a perfect half of an avocado with a smooth face, but it doesn't help if you've got, say, 3/4 or 1/4 of an avocado.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe better short-term solution in that situation? Just submerge the sucker in water. Simply put any unused avocado pieces in a container filled with water in the fridge to keep oxidation at bay, but do note you can't hold them there for long. After several hours, a ripe avocado will begin to grow mushy where water has managed to penetrate it.
As for mashed avocado like guacamole, we think the best solution, aside from preparing it right before serving, is to press a double layer of plastic wrap directly against the surface of the avocado mixture. It's not a perfect solution—the avocado will still brown eventually—but you can mix in a minimal amount of browning such that diners won't know, buying yourself at least a few hours before it becomes a problem.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez"Why do you have that many mortars and pestles?" is a question I hear whenever someone comes to my home for the first time. Clearly, my particular appreciation for mortars and pestles is not understood by all. But I love them. I love them for their beauty, which I think is matched by very few other cooking tools. I love them for their history, which one could argue fairly convincingly is older than any other cooking technology, including fire (I'd wager early hominids were smashing things between rocks before they figured out flames or how to chip stones into cutting implements). And I love them for their continued culinary relevance: Pulverizing foods with a shearing force creates different textures and releases more flavors than a knife, blender, or food processor can.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor regular readers of Serious Eats, my fixation on mortars and pestles is not news. I've gone deep on them before, and have spent more than one sweaty afternoon pounding away, all in an effort to show that not all mortars and pestles are good for all tasks. They are, really and truly, task- and cuisine-specific. I've demonstrated how an (admittedly very expensive) Mediterranean marble mortar with a broad wooden pestle makes far better pesto than its peers; how a rock-solid Thai granite mortar with a matched granite pestle excels at breaking down the tough and fibrous ingredients needed for curry pastes; and how the porcelain apothecary mortars and pestles sold by far too many cookware stores aren't good for a damned thing.
The one type of mortar and pestle I've shied away from endorsing as emphatically as it deserves is a Mexican molcajete. The biggest hurdle, for me, was finding a source that I could recommend with confidence. From everything I've heard, finding a legitimate molcajete made from actual basalt (a type of volcanic rock) and not a concrete imposter can be difficult. Without the certainty that any given product is the real thing, I preferred not to be too vocal of a proponent.
That changed several months ago when Masienda, an LA-based company specializing in Mexican corn, masa harina, and other artisan products, began selling a molcajete with a pedigree that makes me much more comfortable standing by it. This is the first molcajete I've seen where the vendor is transparent about their connection to the specific craftsperson making the tool, and identifies him (his name is Don Enrique of San Salvador El Seco, Puebla, and he's been making molcajetes since he was 13, according to their website). I've never desired such a clear story of origin for any other mortar and pestle, but then again, as far as I know, most others aren't plagued by a sea of concrete fakes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI've now been using Masienda's molcajete for a few months, ever since they sent me one to try out, and it's been great. Molcajetes combine two really nice features that make them versatile beyond Mexican food alone. First, they're hard like a Thai granite mortar and pestle, making them powerful smashers of even tough foods. Second, they're textured, thanks to hundreds of tiny natural holes in the basalt, which results in a surface that produces more friction, and hence grinding power. It's a little like a granite mortar and pestle and suribachi rolled into one.
As a result, the molcajete is adept at everything from grinding dried and fresh chiles to turning onion and garlic into a juicy puree, paving the way for complex and aromatic salsas. It smashes avocado with aplomb, producing one of the easiest and tastiest guacamoles around. It has the potential to be one of the better picks for an all-purpose mortar and pestle, rivaling our favorite granite model.
This molcajete is heavier than most I've seen, with a substantial body. That's a plus as far as it sitting still while you pound is concerned, but it may be too heavy for anyone with strength or mobility challenges. And, as with all mortars and pestles, using it requires having the ability to do the physical task of manually crushing foods, which isn't easy or possible for all.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUltimately, Masienda's molcajete is a more-than-welcome addition to the mortar and pestle landscape here in the States, and is by far the best option I'm aware of for anyone interested in owning one but wary of getting a lump of concrete.
FAQsHow do you season a molcajete?Volcanic rock can shed a fine powder when it's new, so it's best to put the molcajete through an (admittedly slightly annoying) seasoning process to clean it up before you begin using it for food. To do so, add a small amount of dried rice or corn to the molcajete and grind it to as fine a powder as you can manage, making sure to work the grain all over the inside of the molcajete. It will likely take on a dirty appearance as fine bits of stone slough off into the grain. Discard the grain, rinse off the molcajete, and then repeat until you either give up in exasperation or the grain remains clean (preferably the latter, but I'll admit to maybe having quit a little prematurely when seasoning mine).
According to Mexican food authority, cookbook author, and restaurateur Zarela Martinez, one of the appeals of a molcajete is the earthy flavor it imparts to food: "The smell of rain when it hits dry soil—that's the thing you want," she told me in a recent interview. "The molcajete has its own character." Martinez also explained that with enough use and time, the molcajete's interior smooths out, a desirable quality. When this happens, the molcajete is described as "amansado" in Spanish, which means broken-in.
Can I use a molcajete for anything?Well, define "anything." Seriously, though, a molcajete is an incredibly versatile type or mortar and pestle, as good at grinding up spices as it is pureeing fresh and dried chiles and aromatics like onions, and smashing tender ingredients like avocado and boiled tomatillos. According to Martinez, though, many families own two molcajetes: one for grinding spices, the other for salsas and guacamole, in an effort to avoid the flavors of ground spices tainting a batch of salsa. (We think you could get away with using a small marble mortar and pestle for the spices, and save yourself the expense of two molcajetes, though.)
What's the best way to wash a molcajete?Because of their semi-porous structure, molcajetes and their tejolotes (what's that? see below!) can retain food residue more easily, making washing especially important. Don't be afraid to wash yours very well with a strong spray of water, and even a judicious application of soap (but please, please, rinse it thoroughly, otherwise you'll be tasting soap instead of the last batch of salsa...jury's out on which is worse).
You can also buy a small bristly brush, sold in Mexican markets, to scrub out the molcajete and get into any little pockets where food might be hiding.
If molcajete is the word for the mortar, what's the pestle called?The word for the cudgel-like pestle is tejolote.
Serious Eats / Joy KimThe Lodge Pre-Seasoned Cast Iron Skillet beat out 22 other pans to be awarded our best overall pick. It performs solidly, has a sturdy construction, and clocks in at an affordable price—a mere $20. That's the price of a few lattes, and it will last you a lifetime (and beyond!). This skillet is family heirloom material. We love using it to sear, shallow fry, and even bake cornbread in—that's the beauty of cast iron, it's incredibly versatile and can go from stovetop to oven. It’s an essential piece of cookware for any kitchen, and at this price, it’s an evergreen deal.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikTo buy: Lodge Pre-Seasoned Cast Iron Skillet, $20 at amazon.com
Good to Know: Weight: 5 pounds, 8.5 ounces * Cooking surface: 8.25 inches * Comes pre-seasoned: Yes * Induction compatible: Yes * Also available:* A 12-inch version for larger recipes.
FAQsHow long do Lodge cast iron skillets last?As long as you care for your pan and season it regularly, your cast iron pan could theoretically last forever. Cast iron seasoning happens when oils are heated on the surface enough to polymerize, and if you keep replacing this coating with regular seasoning, the cast iron will be protected from rust.
Are Lodge cast iron pans pre-seasoned?Yes—every piece of Lodge cast iron comes pre-seasoned and is ready to use. However, as you cook with your pan more and more, you’ll notice the seasoning start to build up and create a smoother, more nonstick surface.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhen it comes to kitchen tools, bigger isn’t always better—at least when you live in a home with a tiny kitchen. If you have limited real estate, every inch of a countertop, drawer, and shelf is precious, which is why you don’t want to fill it up with tools that get little use. This dilemma has, of course, led brands to spin up a host of space-saving alternatives, some of which are truly useful and others that are more fit for the junk drawer.
Rather than buying something that’s purely marketed as space-saving or compact, we recommend looking for the best-but-smaller version of a tool. There are plenty of compact-but-mighty kitchen tools from our extensive reviews that are worth investing in, and that we promise will get plenty of use.
Mini WhiskThere are plenty of times when a full-sized whisk is essential: to mix thick batters, reach deep into the corners of a pot, or properly aerate cream, for example. But there’s nothing more exasperating than having to break out a giant whisk and a matching-sized bowl for everyday tasks like whisking a single egg or mixing together a quick dipping sauce or spice blend. This is where the mini whisk comes in. Clocking in at under six-and-a-half inches, these whisks are compact, but still long enough to hold comfortably. The best ones will have loops that are thin enough to avoid splattering in smaller bowls, yet still strong enough to thoroughly mix and blend.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubY PeelerNot only is Kuhn Rikon’s original Swiss peeler hands down our favorite peeler, but it’s also one of the most compact options. Measuring just four inches tall and two-and-a-half inches wide, the pint-sized peeler is far more versatile than it looks. In addition to taking the skin off an array of fruits and vegetables, the trusty Y-peeler easily—and cleanly—takes the rind off of citrus, shaves Parmesan, and scoops out blemishes from potatoes. Another space-saving bonus for those in multi-handed households: unlike a swivel peeler, a Y-peeler works for both righties and lefties, so you’ll only need one.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMini Measuring CupThe very best compact tools are not only good at saving space, but also find a way to do the jobs of multiple products. Mini measuring cups are a prime example of such a tool. This one from OXO measures (of course), serving as a neater, less drip-prone replacement to spoons, while also taking the place of a full-sized cup for little amounts of liquids. It can double as a jigger or as a cup for espresso pulls. We also like to use them as prep bowls for spices and herbs.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikOffset SpatulaIf you’re a baker, then there’s probably already an offset spatula in your drawer. They come in several sizes and can go as long as 12 inches, but Ateco makes a mini 4.5-inch version that’s very versatile. We’ve already pulled together an exhaustive list of all the ways an offset spatula comes in handy when it comes to baking, but it can go far beyond frosting cake and lifting cookies—its unique angled shape is also great for spreading things on toast, smoothing sauces on top of casseroles, flipping burgers or small pieces of fish, and creating swirls in dips. (In a pinch, you can even use it as a cheese knife.)
Eighth Sheet PansFor food prep (toasting nuts, mise en place, salting meat, reheating food in a toaster oven), you'll be glad to have a stack of eighth-sheet pans around. They're so compact, you'll hardly know they're there! Except when you need them, of course, which will be all of the time.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikSingle-Serve Coffee MakerWhen you live alone or you’re the single coffee drinker in your household, getting a full-size coffee maker may feel like a commitment, both in terms of space and the amount of coffee it makes. And though they’re convenient, machines like the Keurig cost a lot and still take up a chunk of the kitchen counter (plus, they make mediocre coffee). A single-serve coffee maker like the Kalita Wave and Aeropress, on the other hand, can be tucked away when not in use, are easy to clean, and brew great coffee. For something a little larger, opt for a French press, which is still compact and easy to tuck away (although our favorite from Fellow is so stylish and sleek, you probably won’t want to hide it).
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubHandheld Coffee GrinderIf you don't have the countertop space for a burr grinder, a handheld coffee grinder's a good move. We wouldn't necessarily want to grind a full pot of coffee with one every morning, but for single-serve coffee makers or pourovers, it works great. After testing 11 of them, we recommend the 1Zpresso JX Manual. It's "easy to grind with and simple to adjust," as we said in our review.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubPetty KnifeAlso known as a utility knife (but not to be confused with a utility box cutter), petty knives fall between a paring knife and chef’s knife. While both of those are essential to any knife collection, there’s also a place for a petty knife, especially if you’re short on space. With blades measuring somewhere between five-and-a-half and six inches long, you’ll find that these short, yet nimble knives can handle a host of kitchen tasks—including mincing aromatics, chopping vegetables, and even breaking down chickens.
The ultra-sharp, nimble triangular bladed knives were agile and good at slipping between joints when breaking down a whole chicken.Serious Eats / Grace KellyBench ScraperFor a tool that can do a ton, there's the bench scraper. Its wide, rectangular, semi-sharp blade can easily handle transferring piles of ingredients from the cutting board to a prep bowl, clearing off countertops, and portioning doughs. After testing eight of them, we recommend the OXO Bench Scraper. It has a soft, grippy handle and even features measurements on the end of its blade.
Serious Eats / Eric KingMagnetic Knife StripInstead of a bulky knife block or even a cork drawer insert, a magnetic knife strip goes right on the wall, using space that wouldn't be of much utility anyways. After testing, we like this one from Jonathan Alden. It has strong magnets and a handsome design.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinMini Stainless Steel BowlThere are certain tools that we recommend having two (or more) of and stainless steel prep bowls are one of them. Having an assortment of sizes on hand is absolutely essential, especially small ones like these 5-inch Blanda Blank bowls from Ikea. They’re the perfect size for mise en place work, tiny enough to hold minced garlic and herbs, but also big enough for a chopped shallot or an egg or two. They’re easy to wash and stack up neatly, so don’t be surprised if you find yourself reaching for them frequently.
Small Fine Mesh StrainerPerhaps one of the most underrated kitchen tools, a small fine mesh strainer will come in handy more often than you’d imagine. If you make double-strained cocktails or tea frequently, it’s probably already part of your kitchen arsenal—if not, here are a few reasons to consider picking one up: to sift small amounts of flour, catch pulp and seeds when quickly squeezing a lemon, strain out bits from rendered fat, dust powdered sugar over baked goods, drain olives and other things packed in oil…you get the idea.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubJulep StrainerFor cocktail enthusiasts, there’s no doubt that a Julep strainer is an essential tool. The sturdy, usually stainless steel, disc boasts perforated holes that help strain out muddled ingredients and ice, while allowing the drink itself to flow through smoothly. Outside of cocktail making, a Julep strainer can be used to scoop ice and strain poached eggs out of boiling water.
Serious Eats / Willa Van NostrandSmall Rolling PinWhen it comes to a good rolling pin, length matters. We’ve found that the best option is both long and light, especially for rolling out pie crust. But there are times when pulling out a 17-inch rolling pin seems excessive and a smaller one actually offers more control. I discovered the versatility of a shorter, thinner Chinese rolling pin (also called a dumpling rolling pin) while watching my father-in-law roll out scallion pancakes and bought one for myself. It’s now my go-to for less hefty tasks such as flattening homemade dumpling skins and bao dough or rolling out crusts for hand pies and smaller personal-sized pizzas.
FAQsWhat’s the best gear for a small kitchen?The best kitchen gear is the things you’ll use often, and that applies no matter the size of your kitchen. But when it comes to smaller spaces, you may want to consider downsizing to more compact versions of certain essentials—say, a 4-quart Dutch oven instead of a 7-quart one, a single-serve coffee maker vs. a full-sized machine—or looking for tools that can do multiple jobs.
What’s the best way to store kitchen gadgets? Here at Serious Eats, we’re big fans of metro racks, which are strong enough to hold your heaviest kitchen equipment but can also keep smaller appliances and tools organized. They’re especially great at bringing additional storage space to tiny kitchens that don't typically have a ton of shelving or cabinetry to begin with.
If storage space is lacking, also consider optimizing your walls. For example, put up a magnetic knife strip for cutlery. Not only is it space efficient, but it also offers the most flexibility. Strips are sold at various lengths and, unlike an unwieldy knife block, you never have to worry that a knife won’t fit the slots. You can also opt for a hanging pot rack, which gives you easy access to cookware and saves you time from rummaging around looking for the right pot or pan.
Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnOne of Buenos Aires’ greatest attributes is the close proximity to pasta no matter where you find yourself in the city. Walk down any street long enough and you will run across a small, family-run pasta "factory." They’re easy to spot: A display case decorated with a dozen types of fresh pasta or pastel-colored cardboard boxes waiting to be filled with noodles usually figure prominently in the window. Peek inside and a cook dressed in a characteristic white frock is probably working the old machines that flatten dough into dozens of pasta shapes, long noodles, or square strips that are cut into circles, squares, or triangles that are later stuffed with sautéed vegetables or ham, and most likely, lots of mozzarella or ricotta cheese.
The legacy of Italian immigration—between 1870 and 1920 nearly 4 million Italians immigrated to Argentina, making up 25% of the population according to the 1914 census—isn’t just the frequency with which Argentinians consume pasta, but the furor and fanaticism that they attach to it.
In Buenos Aires, people are as loyal to their choice pasta shop as they are to their favorite football team. Every day of the week, but particularly on Sunday afternoons, long lines of customers grab a number and wait patiently to buy their favorite pasta and sauce by the kilo.
“I buy fresh pasta from Del Patrello or Soma, which are both close enough to where I live,” says cook and baker Trinidad Benedetti. “I don’t see the point in buying from anywhere else.”
Restaurants operate with the same mysticism and develop signature pasta dishes that birth legions of loyal fans, sometimes nationally. In the north Atlantic beach city of Mar del Plata, the Vespoli family lays claim to inventing the sorrentino, a round stuffed pasta known for its size—two, sometimes three times the size of a typical ravioli.
“Every pasta has its own personality,” writes Virginia Higa in her novella, Los Sorrentinos, a fictionalized account of her childhood spent with her relatives, the Vespolis. The original sorrentino was made with ham and cheese and, Higa writes, big enough to require three or four bites. The dish became so popular in Mar del Plata that the restaurant’s patriarch, Don Chiche, attempted (and failed) to patent the recipe in Buenos Aires.
Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnToday, sorrentinos are found in restaurants and pasta shops all over the country. Amongst all the types of stuffed pasta, they feel the most emblematic, not just because they were invented here but because their size mimics the Argentine habit of eating with the eyes almost as much as the taste buds.
“Our food is defined by its abundance,” says Rosario Ranieri, the third-generation owner of Spiagge di Napoli, an Italian restaurant that has been a fixture of Buenos Aires’ Boedo neighborhood since 1926. Spiagge is known for its pasta, like hand-rolled fussiles al fierrito, a noodle that is spun around a thin rod to create a hollowed, corkscrew shape and finished off in a salsa that combines pesto, red sauce, cream, and slices of baked ham. Customers can order them by the kilo to share.
Spiagge makes their sorrentinos with ham and cheese topped with the diners’ choice of salsa; the filling was stacked so high that they looked like upside-down espresso cups.
Exercises in AbundanceI started my initial trials by focusing on the dough. Many restaurants finish sorrentinos in a metal tray in the oven, smothering them in sauce and cheese that melts until it's bubbly and brown—it’s fantastic. Yet the traditional Argentinian dough made with all-purpose flour, eggs, and water doesn’t take full advantage of the finishing technique. The dough softens considerably and takes on a pillowy texture that I more readily associate with a varenyky than a slightly al-dente pasta. I wanted something stronger that would withstand an extra few minutes in the oven without creating a texture that is nearly indecipherable from its creamy, cheesy interior. So I turned to semolina.
Benedetti shared her recipe with me. It calls for 20 egg yolks for every kilo of semolina, resulting in a hard dough that requires no kneading, but instead a long resting time and extra folding and rolling.
Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnAfter testing dough-resting intervals of 30, 60, and 90 minutes, I found that somewhere between 60 and 90 minutes was sufficient time to properly hydrate the semolina for a workable dough. The dough that rested for 30 minutes was stiff, grainy, and broke apart easily in the pasta maker, which I was ultimately able to correct during the rolling process but not without considerable patience. Doughs that rested for 60 minutes and beyond were easier to roll out and made for relaxed, workable doughs from the start.
This dough also needs to be folded over itself and fed through the largest setting of the pasta maker over and over again, the first few times dusting the dough with semolina to prevent sticking. The process creates soft, silky dough without sacrificing sturdiness.
As per Trinidad’s suggestion, I folded and rolled out my semolina dough a total of 12 times. With each turn through the pasta maker, the dough felt less stiff in my hands. After a final 30-minute rest, the dough was silky smooth and light yellow in color, and sturdy enough to be punched out with a round cutter to be stuffed with a generous amount of filling.
Choosing the Right FillingI started by testing out the original filling: baked deli ham and mozzarella cheese in near equal parts. The combination was familiar and nostalgic but it felt like too simple of a payoff for a dough that required so much work. In my second trial, I stayed literal: baked ham, pancetta, mozzarella, and tybo, an Argentine block cheese similar to a Monterey Jack. The filling was tasty but I still felt like it didn’t merit the work of making them from scratch.
Then I remembered something that Rosario told me: “The salsa you put on top of the pasta is just as important, if not more, than the pasta itself.”
Rosario was referring to noodles with no filling, and was in no way encouraging me to stray too far from the accepted norms within the sorrentino canon, but I pretended that was exactly the wisdom she was imparting. I wondered: Could I create a totally novel filling that referenced the textures and flavors of the original ham and cheese, but with more of an unexpected wow factor?
Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnMy mind shifted to vegetarian options, first the usual suspects—eggplant, tofu, tempeh—before settling on king oyster mushrooms. Their bulbous shape, comparatively low moisture levels, and ability to take on a deep flavor and a luxurious texture that is both meaty and silky was exactly what I was looking for. Choosing the correct aromatics and spices to season the mushroom was essential to mimicking the lightness of the baked ham and the smoke of the pancetta: Fresh sage, thyme, and rosemary combined with crushed red pepper and nutmeg were key. Chopped leeks softened over low heat rounded out the butteriness that pork adds and mushrooms lack.
My intention was to mimic the fatty, savory flavor profile and the bite of the baked ham, and the mushroom mix checked off both boxes.
For the sauce, I took Rosario’s advice more literally and went with tradition. According to orthodoxy, ham and cheese sorrentinos should be served with salsa rosa, a simple mixture of cream, roma tomatoes, rosemary, and garlic. The sauce was important: it grounded the experiment with nostalgic familiarity.
I know that Don Chiche would not approve. Lucky for me, he never got that patent.
For the Pasta Dough: In a large bowl, combine semolina and salt. Form a well in the center about 4 inches wide. Pour egg yolks into well and, using a fork, beat thoroughly, then gradually begin incorporating the semolina into the eggs until a moist crumble forms. Gradually add water while using your hands to combine until a uniform, soft dough is formed. Wrap in plastic and let rest at room temperature for 1 hour 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnUnwrap dough and set on a semolina-floured work surface. Using a semolina-floured rolling pin, flatten dough into an oblong shape about 1/2 inch thick. Set pasta maker to widest setting and pass dough through. Place the sheet of dough on a lightly floured work surface. Fold both ends in so that they meet at the center of the dough, and then fold the dough in half where the end points meet, trying not to incorporate too much air into the folds. Using the rolling pin, flatten dough to 1/2 inch thick. Pass the dough through the pasta rollers at the widest setting, then repeat the process 12 more times, dusting with semolina, as necessary—after roughly 6 passes through the rollers, dusting with more semolina will not be necessary.
Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnNarrow the setting by 1 notch and pass dough through, then run it through again. Continue passing the dough through the rollers, reducing the thickness by 1 setting each time until the pasta sheet is about 1mm thick (this is the third-to-last setting on many pasta rollers, but may not be the same on all). The dough should be elastic and slightly translucent but durable. Transfer dough to a large zipper-lock bag, gently folding to fit, and let rest 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnRemove dough from bag, unfold, and cut in half. Return one dough sheet to zipper-lock bag. Spread other dough sheet on a clean work surface, and, using a 3.5-inch round cookie cutter, cut out as many dough rounds as possible. Repeat with other sheet of dough. Transfer pasta rounds to zipper-lock bag to prevent from drying and set aside. (You should have 24 rounds of pasta; if you don't, if you don't, re-roll dough scraps and cut more circles.)
Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnFor the Filling: While the dough is resting in Step 1, make the filling. Combine king oyster mushrooms, olive oil, sesame oil, thyme, sage, rosemary, and Spanish paprika in a medium mixing bowl and, using your hands, toss until evenly coated. Cover and let stand 20 minutes.
Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnHeat a 12-inch cast iron or stainless-steel skillet over medium-high heat until almost smoking. Add mushrooms and their marinade along with a large pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, until moisture has evaporated and mushrooms are deeply browned, about 12 minutes.
Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnStir in leeks along with a pinch of salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until leeks are translucent, about 8 minutes. Transfer mushrooms and leeks to a large bowl and stir in mozzarella, Parmigiano-Reggiano, red pepper flakes, and nutmeg. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnFor the Sauce: In a medium saucepan, heat olive oil and garlic over medium heat, stirring constantly, until very lightly golden, about 30 seconds. Add rosemary and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add tomato passata, increase heat to medium-high, and bring mixture to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomato sauce has reduced and thickened into a chunky salsa, about 20 minutes. Stir in cream, bring to a gentle simmer, then turn off heat. Discard rosemary sprigs and set sauce aside.
Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnTo Form and Cook: Dust a rimmed baking sheet with a thin coating of semolina flour and set aside. Form filling mixture into roughly 2-tablespoon balls (slightly larger than a golf ball), then press into a puck shape. Transfer filling pucks to a separate baking sheet or platter.
Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnArrange 12 pasta rounds on a clean work surface. Set a filling puck in the center of each round. Using a finger moistened with water, very lightly wet the edge of each pasta round, then top with the remaining pasta rounds. Slowly working your way around each sorrentino, press and stretch the top dough rounds to make the edges meet with bottom dough rounds. Press down gently on each filling to remove air bubbles, then press edges to seal. Place on floured baking sheet.
Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnPreheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Spoon 1/2 cup of sauce into a large casserole dish, spreading in an even layer.
Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnAdd sorrentinos to boiling water, stirring gently with a slotted spoon to prevent sticking. Cook until sorrentinos float to the surface, about 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. Using the slotted spoon, transfer sorrentinos to casserole dish, then spoon remaining sauce on top. Bake until sauce reduces slightly and begins to brown around the edges, 10-20 minutes. Serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnSpecial EquipmentKitchen scale, rolling pin, pasta roller, 3.5-inch round cookie cutter
Make-Ahead and StorageSorrentinos freeze well. Lightly dust a tray with semolina or flour, add sorrentinos being sure that they are not touching one another, and freeze. Once frozen, transfer to a zipper-lock bag, pressing out air as you seal, and return to freezer.
Serious Eats /The weather in San Francisco is typically mild, but it can be oddly humid. Especially this year, where we’ve had a record 11 atmospheric rivers pass through (with more to come). This means it takes forever for dishes and kitchen towels to dry. And anything that's hygroscopic (something that absorbs moisture from the air or environment) will suck up water like a dry sponge. Thankfully, my husband, a chemistry professor, bought a bag of desiccant packets. I’ve been using them all over the kitchen.
What Are Dessicant Packets?Serious Eats / Irvin LinDesiccant packets are those small rectangles you find in things like bottles of vitamins, shoe boxes, and bags of beef jerky. And while most folks just toss them, they’re extremely handy to have around, especially if you live in a humid environment.
Most gel desiccant packets are made of silica and can hold up to 35 to 40% of their weight in moisture. They’re hygroscopic (yes, I like that word) which means they attract moisture. This moisture-seeking property helps keep whatever they're stored with dry.
What Can Desiccant Packets Be Used for in the Kitchen?Serious Eats / Irvin LinThere are dozens of ingredients that are hygroscopic and sensitive to moisture, like espresso powder or instant coffee. Both are made by dehydrating pre-made espresso or coffee into a solid state, but the powder wants to be a liquid again. It’s hygroscopic and will suck moisture from the air like a sponge.
I use espresso powder to bake with whenever I make anything chocolate. A touch of coffee or espresso boosts the flavor of the cocoa, which is why it’s included in many brownie and chocolate cake recipes. But because I only use a couple of teaspoons at most per recipe, a jar of instant coffee can sit in the pantry for months. No matter how tightly I screw on the lid, the instant coffee grains always lump and solidify, making them unusable the next time I want to make chocolate mousse.
But once I started throwing a desiccant pack into my instant coffee powder, it started lasting a lot longer. Long enough for me to use the entire jar to bake with, which is pretty impressive.
Once I figured out that I could throw desiccant packets into ingredient containers, I started adding them everywhere. There’s a desiccant pack in my powdered sugar to help prevent clumping, in my box of kosher salt, and in my cocoa powder. I stick a packet in any dry ingredient that I think might clump together or get moldy, including dried mushrooms, panko and regular bread-crumbs, baking soda, freeze-dried fruit, bulk dried herbs and spices, and hard candy. Genevieve Yam, Serious Eats' culinary editor, has used desiccant packets in restaurants, too. "We basically used them to keep meringues and crispy things dry, and at the end of the night we would dehydrate the silica in a combi oven at like 100ºF," she says. "So we’d fill the bottom of a flat/wide container with the contents of a silica packet (we’d open it), line it/trap the silica with taped parchment, and then keep meringue pieces in the box. It would keep the meringues crisp."
The one clumping ingredient I wouldn't put a desiccant packet in, though, is brown sugar. Brown sugar clumps for the exact opposite reason that other ingredients like powdered sugar or instant coffee do. With the latter, moisture gets in, partially dissolves things, and clumping occurs. But because brown sugar is often white sugar processed with molasses, when the molasses loses moisture and dries out, it hardens. Adding a desiccant packet to brown sugar would just harden the brown sugar quicker.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinBeyond kitchen ingredients, wooden salad bowls or bamboo steamers get a couple of desiccant packets thrown into them when I put them away. The desiccant packets prevent moisture and potential mold from growing.
And one of the best things about the desiccant packets that my husband bought (from Wisedry) is that they have dyed pellets that change color as they absorb more water. Once they go from orange to green, you know the packet has absorbed as much water as it can. Microwave the packet for 30 seconds and the water will be driven off, making the packets usable again!
The one caveat (and it’s a big one) is clearly labeled on the packet itself: do not eat the packet! If you think the packet is broken or damaged, discard the entire content of the ingredients it’s sitting in or thoroughly wash the wooden or bamboo item. This scenario, by the way, has never happened to me, but it’s an important one to note. And if you have small children or someone who might mistake the desiccant packet as part of the food, you should probably avoid using it in your kitchen.
FAQsAre desiccant packs poisonous?Almost all desiccant packets are labeled with a “Do Not Eat” warning. But most desiccant packets are filled with silica gel, which is usually non-toxic, though occasionally they have a coloring agent like cobalt that is poisonous. That said, the silica gel pellets can be a choking hazard, especially for little kids. And if you ingest a large amount of the silica gel, it might cause an intestinal or bowel blockage which can be life-threatening. If you or someone you know has accidentally swallowed a desiccant packet or the contents of a desiccant packet, call 911 or seek medical attention immediately. For more information about the potential dangers of desiccant packets, visit this WebMD article.
Can you dry desiccant packs?Yes. Most desiccant packs can be dried and reused. Some desiccant packs, like the WiseDry ones that I recommend above, have instructions on microwaving them, to heat them up and dry them out. But most other desiccant packs shouldn’t be microwaved, as that can overheat them. Only use the microwave method if the packet itself recommends it.
You can dry most other desiccant packs by placing them on an aluminum foiled lined baking sheet in a 250°F oven. Heat the packs for an hour to drive off the moisture. Let the packs cool to room temperature before using again or storing them in an air tight container.
Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesBack when Kenji first reviewed blenders in 2014, a clear winner emerged: The Vitamix 5200 Professional Grade Blender. It’s been our top choice ever since, effortlessly blending, pureeing, and pulverizing everything we’ve put in it. The downside? It's expensive and rarely on sale (pretty much only on Prime Day and Black Friday). The good news? Right now, the 5200 is $170 off.
Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesTo buy: Vitamix 5200 Professional-Grade Blender was $550, now $380 at amazon.com
Why It Won Our ReviewThe Vitamix 5200 is powerful enough to tackle tough tasks (think: making nut butter) while also having a very low, low setting, which prevents the lid from blowing off when pureeing hot soups. It can make mayonnaise, whip cream, mill grain (really—we tried it!), and blend frozen margaritas without a hitch. We love its simple, analog controls (it has a few switches and a dial), which allow you to hone in on blending speed without a fuss. Its narrow, tapered blending jar helps create deep vortexes that suck everything down into the blades, preventing food from getting stuck in the corners and creating silky-smooth sauces, soups, and smoothies.
While the lack of pre-sets might be a dealbreaker for some people (though to be honest, we’ve found blender presets overrated), if you’re looking for a professional-grade standby, we can’t recommend the Vitamix 5200 enough.
Good to Know: * Capacity: 64 fluid ounces * Weight: 10.5 pounds * Number of Speeds: 10 * Controls: Manual * Comes with tamper: Yes * Warranty: 7-year
FAQsWhich Vitamix blender is the best value?We think the Vitamix 5200 Professional-Grade Blender is one of the best Vitamix blenders you can buy. While it’s not cheap, it offers the highest functionality for a reasonable price and will last you a long time (not to mention it comes with a 7-year warranty).
What can the Vitamix 5200 do? We thoroughly tested high-end blenders and found the Vitamix 5200 excelled at making smoothies, blending hot soups, making mayonnaise, blending frozen drinks, milling grain, making nut butters, and blending hummus. It’s an extremely versatile kitchen tool, and there are almost no limits to what it can be used for.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreBlenders come in all shapes in sizes, and choosing the right model for your needs can feel a bit like taking a personality quiz. Do you enjoy a post-workout smoothie, or do you see yourself sitting down to a leisurely dinner of creamy, pureed soup? Is your ideal evening sharing a milkshake with a loved one, or whipping up a batch of frozen margaritas for a big dinner party? No matter how you answered, there’s a blender to suit your lifestyle. Blenders typically fall into two categories: personal or full-sized. Though they’re meant to achieve the same goals, there are significant differences in both design and function between these two styles. Here, we break them down, so you can decide which is right for you.
Personal Blenders Offer Petite Portions and Pared Down User InterfacesThe most obvious difference between personal blenders and full-sized blenders is their capacity. Personal blenders are designed to hold one to two servings, while full-sized blenders double that amount. In our review of personal blenders, our favorite models held between 20 and 32 ounces. These small blenders are well-suited for making individual smoothies, but they’ll cause a major party delay if you’re hoping to serve round after round of piña coladas. In contrast, our favorite full-sized Vitamix model has a stated capacity of 64 ounces—that’s enough space to make frozen drinks for a small crowd.
Personal blenders also have a slightly different design than full-sized blenders. They’re composed of a small jar, an extractor blade that screws directly onto the jar, and a motor base. To use, the jar is filled with ingredients, inverted, and placed onto the base. Personal blenders are designed for ease and efficiency, and generally have fewer settings than full-sized models. Our favorite personal blender from Zwilling had a simple dial with three settings: on/off, pulse, and smoothie.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreFull-Sized Blenders Allow for Recipe ModificationsOnce the blade is screwed onto the jar of a personal blender, it’s completely sealed—you can’t add any new ingredients and, if something gets stuck, you won’t be able to reach in with a spatula or wandto give things a stir unless you take it all apart (Note: Serious Eats does not condone reaching into a blender with your fingers under any circumstances).
Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesFull-sized blenders offer a little more flexibility. These models include a large pitcher with an attached blade (usually; some models have blades that screw up into the bottom), a lid, and a motorized base.
To use the blender, the pitcher is filled with ingredients, placed on the base, and switched on. Once things are running smoothly, the lid, or lid plug, can be removed to add additional ingredients. This can be helpful in a variety of recipes, but it’s essential if you’re using a blender to make something like homemade mayonnaise, where the oil must be drizzled in slowly to successfully form an emulsion.
Full-Sized Blenders Are Also More PowerfulSerious Eats / Tamara StaplesFull-sized blenders—like our favorite the Vitamix 5200 (which has a 1380-watt motor)—are more powerful than their petite personal counterparts.
This machine is capable of blending everything from soup to nuts, literally—the motor is strong enough to churn whole nuts into creamy nut butter. In contrast, the Zwilling Enfinigy Personal Blender has a stated power of 500 watts (less than half the power of the Vitamix). Personal blenders generate enough force to puree fresh or frozen fruits, but for tough jobs like making nut butter or crushing ice, a full-sized blender delivers more consistent (and smooth) results. When reviewing personal blenders, we found that many models included a warning against crushing ice and only the Ninja BN401 Nutri Pro Compact Personal Blender was able to deliver a satisfying slush. Crushing ice is key to creating a variety of icy cocktails and drinks, and a standard blender is well-equipped to churn them out.
Storage and Cleanup DifferencesSerious Eats / Russell KilgorePersonal blenders are small and light—this is a big advantage when it comes to storage. Not only do they take up less space in a cabinet, they’re also easier to get off a shelf. The Vitamix 5200 weighs a whopping 10 pounds, 9 ounces—about the size of a healthy newborn. The effort of hauling a heavy blender out of a cabinet may be enough to deter your spontaneous impulse to make a milkshake, so it’s often easier to store full-sized models on the countertop. Doing so, however, requires significant space. The Vitamix is just over 20 inches tall, and may not fit under low cabinets. If clearance is a concern, the base and pitcher can be stored separately—keeping the base on the counter and the pitcher in a cabinet will eliminate the need for heavy lifting. Shorter, wider models like the E310 Explorian, are also available.
Blenders make many kitchen tasks easier, but let’s face it: they can be hard to clean. Viscous treats like thick milkshakes coat the sides of the jar or pitcher, and tough pieces of produce tend to get stuck around the blade. The construction of personal blenders makes cleanup fast and simple—most models include dishwasher-safe jars and lids, and it’s easy to remove the blade component to wash it under running water. The jar can also double as a serving vessel, giving you the option to cut down on dishes. Full-sized blenders require a bit more effort—it can be difficult to reach the very bottom of a tall pitcher with a spatula to remove debris. The best way to clean a full-sized blender is to rinse it, fill it with warm soapy water, and run the blender on high until clean.
So, Which Should I Buy?It’s time to evaluate your quiz results. If you just use a blender to make daily smoothies, a personal blender is a great choice. These small machines are compact and easy to clean. Their simplified construction makes for quick to set up, use, and break down, and gets a smoothie into your hands quickly.
Standard blenders are the answer if you’re looking for power and versatility. Although they’re larger and bulkier, full-sized blenders are well-suited to a variety of tasks including (and beyond) smoothie making. If you like to cook and find yourself whipping up mayonnaise, nut butter, or even dehydrating vegetable scraps and pulverizing them to make flavored powders, a powerful standard blender can't be beat.
FAQsWhich is better: a full-sized or a personal blender? This is a personal choice—only you can determine the best blender for your home. For making multiple servings of a blended drink or pureeing soups, a full-sized blender will offer you the most power and versatility. If your priorities are ease and convenience, a personal blender provides a quick solution for single-serving smoothies,
What is the best way to clean a blender?Our favorite way to clean a full-sized blender is to fill it with warm soapy water and run it on high for 30-60 seconds. This is also the method recommended in the Vitamix owner’s manual. Personal blenders are a bit easier—most models include dishwasher-safe jars and lids, and the blade component can be detached and rinsed in the sink.
Can a personal blender crush ice?Generally speaking, personal blenders are not the best tool for crushing ice. While reviewing personal blenders, we found that several models specifically stated that they are not intended for this purpose. The Ninja BN401 Nutri Pro Compact Personal Blender is a notable exception—this model even features a specific crush setting.
What is a standard blender size? Standard blenders come in a variety of sizes. Our favorite full-sized models have stated capacities ranging from 36 to 64 ounces. When the pitcher is placed on the base, they measure between 11 and 18 inches tall.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubI traveled a lot at a former job, training cafes how to use their new espresso machines. But no matter how much caffeine I was going to down later that day, I would start every morning in the hotel room, by myself, with a cup of coffee and reflection. And since hotel coffee is rarely worth the trip down to the lobby, I brought my Aeropress everywhere I went.
It’s easy to fall in love with the Aeropress: its small, cylindrical chamber is perfect for brewing one cup at a time. And because it’s designed around a filter cap, a chamber, and a plunger, it can make espresso-style coffee, plunger-assisted drip coffee, and even brew immersion-style coffee—just flip it upside down. Since every part of the Aeropress is made from plastic, it’s also lightweight enough to toss into your bag for travel (you'll impress everyone at your campsite, just saying).
Personally, I really like using it with the Fellow Prismo attachment. While the standard Aeropress cap has an array of holes that lets the coffee drip through as it’s brewing, the Prismo adds a pressurized valve that holds everything in the top chamber until you press it down with a plunger. It’s a great way to turn your Aerorpess into an immersion brewer (like a French press) without having to invert it. Plus, the Prismo comes with a reusable metal filter (so you don’t have to remember to pack the paper ones). And if you’re really always on the move, there’s also the Aeropress Go, which features a travel case and a cup (though the chamber is a little smaller).
Even though I work from home now, the Aeropress is still my go-to afternoon brewer, and I enjoy taking my freshly brewed cup to a comfy chair and enjoying the quiet ritual of sipping it—just like all those pre-dawn hotel mornings.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubTo buy: Aeropress, $40 at amazon.com; Aeropress Go, $40 at amazon.com
Good to Know Materials: Plastic, silicone * Weight: 8 ounces * Brewing capacity: 10 ounces * Surface diameter: 6 centimeters * Base diameter: 9.5 centimeters * Length:* 17 centimeters
FAQsDoes the Aeropress make espresso? While the Aeropress does use pressure to brew coffee, it can’t generate the same amount of pressure that an espresso machine does. Filter caps with a pressurized valve (like the Fellow Prismo or the one Aeropress now makes themselves) can build more pressure for a stronger espresso-style coffee, but it’s still not technically an espresso shot (even if it’s delicious).
Is an Aeropress better than a French press?There are big advantages to both the Aeropress and a French press for brewing coffee, but the main difference is volume. The Aeropress maxes out around eight ounces of total brew volume, while many French presses are at least 32 ounces. Most French presses are also made from glass and are fragile, however, so while a French press might be better when brewing for a crowd, the near-indestructible Aeropress is great for travel and brewing one cup for yourself.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe phrase “dish towel” is often used interchangeably with “kitchen towel,” and for good reason: they’re truly multipurpose. Spend a couple hours cooking, and you’ll quickly realize you can use a dish towel for much more than just drying dinner plates. In the Serious Eats test kitchen and at home, we use them not just for drying dishes and hands, but for mopping up spills and grabbing hot handles—they make excellent stand-ins for pot holders.
Choosing the best dish towel can be tricky: is it worthwhile to spend a small fortune on something that’s arguably (albeit quietly) one of the most important tools in your kitchen? Or should you go for a budget buy, because towels are meant to be heavily used? Of course, there’s aesthetics to consider, too: dish towels are stored “out in the open,” on hooks or draped over oven door handles.
There are great options for both types of cooks, whether you want to spend a lot on a luxurious dish towel that’ll look and feel great, or you’d prefer to save a buck and replace it with greater frequency. It all boils down to how you plan on using it.
To find the best all-around kitchen towel, we tested 17 towels from popular and reputable brands. We chose a variety of towel types, ensuring we included terry cloth, flour sack, flat weave, and waffle weave options. The majority of our samples were made from 100% cotton, which is most widely used for dish towels, but we also included microfiber, linen, and linen-blended towels.
The Winners, at a GlanceThese towels look, feel, and function like the ones preferred by most chefs in professional kitchens. They’re sturdy enough to take heavy use and thick enough to wrap around a hot pan handle. They also have a stellar absorbency rate (141%!), and a very attractive price point. These towels are made to be hard workers, and although they aren’t as pretty as some of the other competitors, fans of this style would argue that’s the point.
With a weave that is neither too thick or thin, this 100% cotton towel excelled in every task and looked good doing it (it comes in a set of six neutral-adjacent colors). We appreciated its center-located hanging hook and pliability; it made drying delicate glassware easy and efficient. Although the price tag seems high, these towels come in a set of six and are made from organic cotton.
These 100% cotton towels are woven together in a flat crosshatch pattern that is both absorbent and pliable. They’re sturdy, durable towels that can handle most kitchen tasks. Although they’re not quite as soft as the waffle weave varieties, they’re a solid option—and come in an impressive amount of colors.
With a fuzzy terry cloth weave, Utopia’s bar mop is ideal for tossing over a spill or mess in the kitchen. Having a stack on hand cuts down on paper towel use, and while they’re not the fanciest looking towels we’ve ever used, that’s the point—they’re easy to wash and reuse. Just toss ‘em in the wash with a splash of bleach and they’ll be ready to go for the next kitchen disaster.
We loved drying our hands on these luxuriously thick, absorbent hand towels. Although they weren’t our favorite for drying dishes, the design does offer a smart upgrade over other terry cloth towels: these are reversible. You can use the plush side for hands, then put the basic cotton side to work for other kitchen tasks. Either way, you really can’t beat the thickness of All-Clad’s towels.
The TestsSerious Eats / Grace Kelly Absorbency Test: We weighed each towel on a digital scale and recorded the weight in grams. After weighing one cup of water (118 grams), we poured the water onto a sheet pan and covered it with a towel. After waiting two minutes, we then transferred the towel to the scale and recorded the new weight. We consulted Gregory Petrics, a Ph.D. in Mathematics, to come up with the calculation [weight after water/weight before water100-100] to determine the absorbency percentage of each towel. * Drying Time Test: Once the towels were dampened and weighed, we draped each one over a wooden drying rack, ensuring each towel was laid flat with no wrinkles, and did not overlap any other towel. We checked the towels every 15 minutes to assess for dryness; we recorded the amount of time it took for each towel to feel dry to the touch. * Maneuverability (Ease of Use) Test: Once all the towels were entirely dry, we evaluated how easy they were to use as dish drying towels. For each towel, we washed two wine glasses. After rinsing them, we set them upside-down in a drying rack for 30 seconds to remove excess moisture. Then we dried both glasses using the towel. Here, we took note of thickness, pliability, and whether the towel left behind any streaks or lint on the glass. * Staining and Cleaning Test: We tested the towels’ ease of care by smearing 1/2 teaspoon of mustard and 1 tablespoon of ketchup on each towel. After waiting one hour, we washed the towels according to their specific manufacturer’s instructions. We then inspected each towel for signs of staining, as well as shrinking, fraying, wrinkling, and general durability after one wash/dry cycle. * General Use Test: After completing the above tests, we chose seven standouts for our final test. We used each winning towel for one week in our kitchen, putting it through a rigorous variety of tasks: we dried dishes and hands, used it to handle hot cookware, wiped spills and messes, and hung it on both wall-mounted hooks and oven door handles. After one week, we washed it again according to the manufacturer’s instructions and took notes on texture, thickness, versatility, durability, and ease of care.
What We LearnedThe Best Kitchen Towels Were MultipurposeSerious Eats / Grace KellyThe best towels were consistently useful at a variety of tasks: drying hands, drying dishes, mopping spills, serving as a potholder or oven mitt, and even acting as cleaning rags. Towels that perform brilliantly in one or two categories weren’t good enough to stand up to the true multipurpose workhorses. To choose a towel that can do it all, look for thick (but not plush) cotton, a flexible texture that can be maneuvered around tight spaces, and a price point low enough to justify buying more than one.
Size Mattered: Bigger Was Not BetterIf we were using kitchen towels exclusively to dry our hands, we’d be all for the XXL sizes. But the larger towels—accounting for both dimensions and thickness—were awkward to use for most tasks. Drying a delicate wine glass with a large, thick towel was a nerve-wracking experience, and we found that very large towels were not ideal for using around open flame (for obvious reasons)!
Hanging Loops Were Nice to HaveNot all towels we tested had fabric loops for hanging the towel. Although this wasn't a deal breaker—you can always drape it over a hook or your oven door handle—a hanging loop was appreciated, especially in kitchens where multiple towels are in use at any given time. We docked points for hanging loops that were too thick to be easily used, and gave commendations for loops situated in the center of the long edge of a towel, rather than in a corner. (Corner loops require the towels to dangle awkwardly long, potentially grazing the countertop or workspace.)
Save the Terry Cloth for Hand TowelsTerry cloth, a weave made from thick, looped cotton, is often used in bath towels, thanks to its plush feeling and impressive capacity to “drink in” a lot of water. It’s understandable to assume they’d make great kitchen towels for these reasons. But our testing revealed they do only one thing—dry hands—very well. They’re not great at drying dishes, because the looped weave leaves behind a lot of fibers, especially on glassware. They’re also slow to dry when saturated: in our dry test, the All Clad Reversible Towel, which has a terry cloth weave on one side, took six hours and 30 minutes (the longest of any towel) to feel dry to the touch. We also found their thickness to be a detractor in many tasks. These hefty towels struggled to slide in between narrow pot lid handles and felt clumsy when used in place of an oven mitt.
That said, terry cloth towels are stellar at drying hands quickly and completely. If you prefer to keep separate towels for dishes and hands, it’s worth considering a terry cloth towel or two for whenever your hands are wet.
Waffle Weave Towels Were a Great Choice, Depending on the Depth of the WeaveSerious Eats / Grace KellyThe towels that had fibers woven together in a waffle-like pattern were top performers in the absorbency, maneuverability, and general use tests. The waffle pattern makes these towels very flexible and malleable, which means they excel at protecting hands around hot cookware and drying dishes.
The waffle weave towels we tested were either 100% cotton or a cotton-linen blend, although you can also find 100% linen towels. Overwhelmingly, we preferred the 100% cotton towels, due to their lower price point. Linen fibers, while more durable and less prone to pilling over time, become crinkled and accordion-like around the edges, which reduces their usability—unless ironed.
A waffled towel can be deep or shallow, which is represented by how raised the edges of each individual weave is. Although deep, loose weaves feel luxurious and drink up a lot of moisture—and they tend to be more expensive, which made us hesitant to use them for messy kitchen jobs. These were also more prone to slight unraveling and fraying at the edges and within the exposed fibers. One of our favorites, from Coyuchi, had a short, tight weave that felt easy to control, and stood up well to two cycles of washing and drying.
Flour Sack-Style Towels Were Too Thin to Be Truly UsefulFlour sack towels—sometimes called tea towels—were once made from actual flour sacks. Now, they’re simply super thin, lightweight cotton. Although they dry quickly when wet, they’re too flimsy to be useful as a makeshift pot holder.
When are they nice to have around? Owing to their no-shed texture, they’re super at polishing glassware. Embroidered or pattern options can be a nice “just for decor” option, too.
It’s Not Worth Buying a Very Expensive TowelIt’s tempting to splurge on a gorgeous towel. After all, they’re decor-adjacent tools. But for most cooks, it’s a better investment to buy towels in a pack, spending less per towel. It’s worth noting too that a high price point doesn’t automatically translate to a better towel. The most expensive towel we tested, the Weston Table Laguna Towel, wasn’t as absorbent as our top picks, and didn’t stand up well to being laundered. Our overall favorite, from Zeppoli, come in a pack of 15 and cost just $1.73 per towel. Your budget will determine what defines an “expensive” towel, but, generally speaking, we’d recommend not spending more than $10 per towel.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Kitchen TowelSerious Eats / Grace KellyThe best dish towels are multipurpose towels that can be used for more than just drying dishes. Look for towels with a strong, tight weave that can stand up to hot cookware, as well as handle a wash/dry cycle without any fuss (although some shrinking is unavoidable in almost all towels). Cotton is favored over linen for its more affordable price point, and resistance to rumpling around the edges. Low-pile threads are ideal because they leave behind minimal lint, and make for a more maneuverable towel. If aesthetics are important in your kitchen, choose colored and patterned towels which can hide stains. Finally, don’t spend a fortune on any dish towel: the pricier it is, the less likely you are to actually use it.
What we liked: Towels in this style are known as “side towels” in professional kitchens. They’re coveted (and sometimes hoarded) among chefs for good reason: they’re incredibly useful for multiple jobs. They’re a great choice for mopping spills in lieu of paper towels; in our absorbency test, they soaked up 141% of their weight in water. They didn’t leave any lint when used as a dish-drying towel. Best of all, we liked their relatively petite size, which wasn’t unwieldy, and lent itself well to use as a makeshift potholder. These towels are among the least expensive we tested and come in a large pack.
What we didn’t like: These towels are surprisingly thirsty, and do become saturated easily. With drying times that can reach hours (during our test, it took five hours to feel fully dry), you’ll need to have a bunch on hand while cooking. They stain easily, and have a thinner weave than our other top pick, which means they will have to be replaced with greater regularity.
Price at time of publish: $19.
Key Specs Material: 100% cotton * Dimensions: 14 x 25 inches * Care instructions: Machine wash warm; tumble dry low * Hanging hook:* No
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: This towel hit all the marks. It is made with a low-profile waffle weave for maximum flexibility and maneuverability. It has a strong hem around all sides, which helps it resist warping and becoming misshapen when washed and dried. The generously-sized hanging loop is affixed to the center of a side, which makes it easy to hang and keep out of the way when not in use. It dried relatively quickly when wet (three hours and 45 minutes), and hid stains well, thanks to its waffled pattern and neutral-ish color. It also looks nice and is made from organic cotton.
What we didn’t like: It’s on the expensive side, with each towel costing close to $10. There was considerable shrinking when washed (three and four inches from either side). We were slightly hesitant to use it for dirty or messy tasks, to keep the aesthetics intact.
Price at time of publish: $58.
Key Specs Material: 100% organic cotton * Dimensions: 20 x 30 inches * Care instructions: Machine wash cold on gentle cycle, non-chlorine bleach; tumble dry low or line dry; cool iron as needed * Hanging hook:* Yes
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: These towels are simple and, as the name suggests, truly classic. They’ll seamlessly merge into just about any kitchen’s design style, and they’re hardworking towels we don’t feel we have to baby or protect from messes. Although some towels with a flatter weave tend to lag in the absorbency department, the crosshatch stitching here meant these towels could handle liquids, whether it was drying dishes or mopping up a spill. Choosing a color is fun, too—Williams Sonoma currently has a handful of springy hues on offer.
What we didn’t like: In our absorbency tests, it couldn’t compare to the impressive performance of the terry cloth varieties — but it did dry quicker. The texture is a little rough, and not quite as pliable as the Coyuchi. The hanging hook is attached to a corner of the towel.
Price at time of publish: $22, depending on color.
Key Specs Material: 100% cotton * Dimensions: 20 x 30 inches * Care instructions: Machine wash warm, non-chlorine bleach; tumble dry; warm iron as needed * Hanging hook:* Yes
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: These towels are incredibly absorbent (with an absorbency rate of 160%). They’re perfect for using instead of paper towels, and they’re made to be tossed around—no need to keep them in pristine condition. They come in a set of a dozen and are a basic, white color (unless you opt for a different hue), and have a “no fuss” vibe that can be brightened with bleach.
What we didn’t like: The looped fibers are relatively loose, and won’t last forever. When saturated, this towel is heavy and takes a long time to air-dry. If used to dry dishes, it will leave behind lint.
Price at time of publish: $18.
Key Specs Material: 100% cotton * Dimensions: 16 x 19 inches * Care instructions: Use cold water, bleach safe, wash separately from dark colors; dry immediately * Hanging hook:* No
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: These towels are fantastic for drying hands. They’re soft and thick, and soak up a lot of water. They’re good stand-ins for pot holders when maneuvering sheet pans in and out of the oven. All-Clad’s towels were a strong competitor in our staining and cleaning tests, leading us to believe these sturdy towels will last for years.
What we didn’t like: They’re thick to a fault when confronted with certain tasks. We were hesitant to use them for drying the bowl and stem of delicate glassware, and they were a tight squeeze into narrow lid handles. At $10 a towel, they’re at the top range of expensive.
Price at time of publish: $30.
Key Specs Material: 100% cotton * Dimensions: 17 x 30 inches * Care instructions: Machine wash warm, non-chlorine bleach; tumble dry; warm iron as needed * Hanging hook:* No
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Competition* Sur La Table Washed Waffle Kitchen Towels: We liked this thick and soft towel—and appreciated its durable hanging hook—but its weave was loosely threaded, and started to show signs of wear after two washes. * Williams Sonoma All Purpose Pantry Towels: Williams Sonoma’s All Purpose Towels are an average performer without much to hate…or love. They’re a bit rougher than some of our other picks, and just a bit too thick to be our go-to for drying delicate dishes. * All-Clad Textiles Kitchen Towels: A decent terry cloth option for drying hands, this towel is moderately priced and quite absorbent. But it left behind a lot of lint on glassware, and began to look disheveled after just one wash. * Zeppoli Flour Sack Towels: Although this was our favorite among the flour sack options, it doesn’t lend itself to use as a pot holder, which nixed it early from further rounds of testing. * Weston Table Laguna Kitchen Towel: This 100% linen towel is a looker, but at $24 per single towel, we were hesitant to bring it near anything that could stain, tear, burn, or fray it. It’s well-made and pretty, and would work best as a decorative or “hands only” towel. * Utopia Towels Dish Towels: At first blush, these look almost indistinguishable from the Zeppoli Classic Kitchen Towels, our winners. But the Utopia towels were less absorbent, and had a stiffer, rougher texture. * Now Designs Flour Sack Kitchen Dish Towels: This set of three towels earned smiles for its cheery colors, but the towels were low-performers in every test. They’re so thin, they’re actually see-through—a quality that stopped us from testing them as pot holders for hot cookware. * Aunt Martha’s Flour Sack Dish Towels: Although Amazon reviewers love these as a blank canvas for embroidery, we struggled to find their usefulness in the kitchen. They’re supersized to a fault, and many in our package had odd dimensions. They’re also not as absorbent as our other flour sack test subjects. * Hyer Kitchen Microfiber Kitchen Dish Towels: We love a towel that leaves no trace (these don’t deposit any lint), but these aren’t great multitaskers, owing to their unique texture and thin composition. We’d keep a stack close by for cleaning and polishing the kitchen, though. * Hawkins New York Essential Dish Towel Set: Hands down (and dry), these $14-per towel options smoked the competition in the “looks” category. But their XL length made them awkward to use for most tasks, and we were reluctant to use them for messier tasks. * Magic Linen Waffle Kitchen Towel: Although we enjoyed the luxurious feel of this linen-cotton blended towel and its deep, thirsty waffle weave, its $18-per-towel price tag made it impractical for everyday use. * Five Two Utility Towels: These simple cotton towels were decently absorbent and almost as versatile as the Zeppoli Classic, our top pick. However, at over $15 more per towel (at the time of testing), it was hard to justify the splurge.
FAQsWhat’s the difference between dish towels and tea towels? Tea towels are thin, flexible towels made from cotton or linen—they’re sometimes called flour sack towels, and often printed or embroidered with designs or patterns. Although you can use tea towels for dish towels, they’re less versatile, and often used as decoration. They are, we’ll add, pretty great at drying glassware, due to their lack of lint. (The phrase “tea towel” has its origins in high society; these towels were used to insulate teapots and keep baskets of scones warm).
What are bar mops?Bar mops are plush, terry cloth-style towels made with high-pile looped cotton. They’re thirsty and absorbent, making them ideal for mopping up spills on wet surfaces. But they become quickly saturated, which makes them far from ideal for use as pot holders. They also leave behind a lot of lint when used as a dish drying towel.
What’s a side towel? A side towel is restaurant lingo for a basic, low-cost dish towel that can be used for a variety of kitchen tasks. Our top pick in this review, the Zeppoli Classic Kitchen Towels, are considered a side towel.
What’s the best way to wash dish towels? Beyond “according to manufacturer instructions,” you mean? Jokes aside, dish towels should be washed in cold water and tumble-dried on the lowest heat setting to avoid shrinking. All cotton and linen towels will shrink up to four inches after the first wash/dry cycle, although if you’re concerned about that, you can hang-dry them to minimize surface area loss. If your kitchen towels get stained, treat them immediately with a stain remover and wash on cold. If the stain remains, try treating and washing again before putting in the dryer; heat will “set” the stain. Most manufacturers note that if bleach is used, it should be the non-chlorine type.
Are kitchen towels and dish cloths the same? Linguistically, yes. Although dish towels are often referred to as kitchen towels and vice-versa, there’s one instance where we wouldn’t swap them out. Terry cloth towels are best reserved for drying hands, because they leave behind lint when used for drying dishes (especially on glassware).
Which material is best for a dish towel?Our tests revealed that cotton was preferable for dish towels, owing to its high absorbency rate, low cost, and flexibility. Linen is an excellent option as well, although it’s more expensive and prone to wrinkling and rumpling in the dryer. Although microfiber doesn’t leave behind lint, it’s not ideal for drying hands or swapping in as a pot holder.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyOften, the kitchen gear we get the most excited by is something flashy and expensive, like an outdoor pizza oven, an espresso machine, or a do-it-all air fryer toaster oven.
However, great things can come cheaply. And it’s nice to reflect on the inexpensive (sub-$40) kitchen gear and tools from our equipment reviews we think make for significant upgrades. Whether you own a similar piece of gear already and feel your current model is just kind of “eh” or you don’t have one at all, you’re in for a treat.
If you don’t already own an instant-read thermometer (or, gasp, you have one that’s inaccurate!), let us convince you to get one. Our favorite, inexpensive thermometer is the ThermoWorks ThermoPop 2. It’s about $35 and has a blisteringly fast response time, a large, rotating screen, and a backlight, amongst other features.
Our favorite vegetable peeler costs just $8 and is nimble and effective, and easily curves around apples, potatoes, squash—you name it. It has a carbon steel blade that starts out and stays sharp, too. And if you’ve yet to try a y-peeler, it’s “categorically superior” to a swivel peeler, or so we say.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWhile this isn’t the cheapest of the cheap chef’s knives we recommend, it did well in all of our tests and is just $40 (not bad in the slightest for a knife you’ll use every day). It has a grippy handle, too, and is available in a range of blade lengths. We recommend the 8-inch one for most cooks.
If your bread knife stinks, you'll know it: cutting bread requires ample sawing, slices are jagged, tomatoes are torn—you get the gist. Our favorite bread knife from Tojiro is wicked sharp, incredibly nimble, and just $25. Everyone who gets one loves it. It’s a fact.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikYou shouldn’t spend a lot on a paring knife (it’s important, but not nearly as versatile or splurge-worthy as a chef’s knife), but that also means you can get a really great one for not a lot of cash. Take our favorite from Victorinox: it’s $15, has a grippy, textured handle, and is incredibly sharp.
A lot of citrus juicers work poorly or are just a pain to use—they send juice splattering all over your countertops and hands. Our favorite citrus juicer of many years is this model from Chef’n. It features a dual-gear design and a bowl-shaped stainless steel press that really squeezes the living daylights out of citrus. It has centralized perforations that effectively direct juice downwards, too.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOur favorite bench scraper from OXO is the kind of thing you’ll buy and subsequently use every time you cook. It begs the question: why don’t you already have one? Its wide, stainless steel rectangular blade easily transfers ingredients from a cutting board to a prep bowl, clears off surfaces, and cuts and portions doughs (biscuit, gnocchi, etc.).
We strongly believe you can cook most skillet recipes in a cast iron or stainless steel pan, which means getting a good one is quite a significant upgrade. And our favorite model from Lodge (after testing 22 of ‘em) costs just $20. It performs exceptionally well and will literally last forever. Just read up a little on how to season and maintain it.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikRare is it to cook something and not add at least a pinch of salt. Which makes a good salt storage bin an essential, easy, and fairly inexpensive (sub-$30) upgrade. This one from ZEROJAPAN has a hinged lid made from Hinoki wood and can hold a lot of salt. It also has a large opening (so you can really stick your fingers/hand in there) and a looped handle.
A real bummer is that not every kitchen scale is accurate. But, you might be thinking, isn’t that their one job? And you’d be correct! An accurate kitchen scale is mighty helpful for baking, portioning, and making sure you have the right coffee-to-water ratio. While our favorite kitchen scale from OXO is more than $50 (over the price cap for this article), our budget-friendly recommendation from Escali is under $30 and even comes in some fun colors, like Tarragon Green.
Serious Eats / Emily DrydenDid you know plastic cutting boards can be tough on knives, causing them to prematurely dull? ‘Tis true! A great plastic cutting board is durable but still soft enough not to destroy your blades. Our favorite boards from OXO fit the bill—and they even have non-slip feet. You can get two boards (the small and medium) for under $25, while the larger board is a smidge more at about $33.
For cooks who’ve used exclusively glass mixing bowls, metal ones are a bit of a revelation. They’re lightweight, shatter-proof, and stackable. Plus, they’re incredibly cheap. You can go to a restaurant supply store to stock up on bowls of all sizes or buy a cheap set online.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIf you frequently drink coffee or tea on the go, you need a great travel mug that actually keeps things hot, doesn’t spill, and fits in a car’s cup holder or backpack’s drink compartment. This one from Zojirushi fits the bill: it’s vacuum-insulated, keeping liquids far hotter for far longer than you’ll need, and also has a lock on its lid and a slim body.
Do you experience too-pale pies? Well, you might be using the wrong pie pan. For consistently golden, browned crusts, opt for a cheap, metal plate like our favorite from Norpro. For less than $30, you can even buy two and easily stack them for storage.
Serious Eats / Grace KellySqueeze bottles are ubiquitous in restaurants and you won’t regret adding some to your kitchen. They’re excellent for storing oils and sauces, frosting, and adding a squirt of oil to the surface of a skillet or the bottom and sides of a wok.
A good balloon whisk with plenty of wires and a grippy handle will make it easier to whisk together sauces, emulsify oil and vinegar for salad dressing, bring together pastry cream, aerate whipped cream, and more. And one of our favorite balloon whisks, from OXO, is a mere $12.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezDid you know graters can go dull? It’s true! This means if you haven’t replaced yours in some years, you’re probably due for a new one. Behold its new, super-sharp serrations that tackle whole garlic cloves, ginger, fresh nutmeg, and hard cheeses! Our favorite model from Microplane also features a soft-grip handle that comes in various colors, including floral patterns (fun!).
FAQsWhat’s the most popular kitchen gear right now?Well, we can’t speak super broadly, but we can tell you what the most popular gear from our reviews is. In fact, we have a whole article devoted to it, featuring an air fryer, sous vide machine, coffee grinder, vacuum sealer, and more.
What are essential pieces of kitchen gear?The answer to this question depends on what you’re looking to buy! We have guides to general essentials (a real starter kit, if you will), essential cookware, and essential baking tools.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreLike air fryers, sous vide machines are gadgets that have greatly changed the way we cook at home. They work by circulating water at a set temperature, giving you rather unparalleled control over what you're cooking. Perfectly poached eggs, lobster, pork shoulder, leg of lamb, and even carrots cooked in carrot juice are easily achievable at home with a sous vide machine. You can even set the machine for a few hours and leave your food cooking since it will maintain a steady temperature. And while sous vide machines used to be pretty pricey, more affordable options are now available, including our favorite budget-friendly model from Instant Pot. It's currently on sale, too, making it an even s sweeter deal.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreTo buy: Instant Pot Accu Slim Sous Vide Precision Cooker was $100, now $80 on amazon.com
Why It Won Our ReviewWhen we tested sous vide machines, we looked for winners that accurately heated water and had a powerful enough motor to circulate it evenly. And while our top picks have a few more bells and whistles, we were thoroughly impressed with how consistent and easy the Instant Pot Accu Slim Sous Vide Precision Cooker was to operate. It quickly nailed the temperatures we set it to, bringing water baths up to temp faster than much more expensive models. And while we wish it had an adjustable clip and didn’t take on as many scratches and dings during testing, it’s still a great deal, one that’s even sweeter now that it’s on sale.
Good to Know: * Time taken to heat water bath (using a gallon of cold water to start): 50 minutes * Time taken to heat water bath (using a gallon of room temperature water to start): 16 minutes * Dimensions: 15.94 x 7.52 x 4.92 inches * Wattage: 800 * Warranty: Limited 1-year warranty
FAQsWhat is the cook time for the Instant Pot Accu Slim Sous Vide Precision Cooker?The Instant Accu Slim immersion circulator defaults to a 4-hour run time, but you can program it from anywhere between one minute and 72 hours. This is enough time to handle most sous vide recipes, though some of our other picks can run for longer.
What can you use a sous vide machine for?Immersion circulators are used to heat a water bath that circulates inside a container for low-temperature cooking. This is helpful for bringing a steak to temp before searing, or delicately cooking eggs to retain a runny yolk. We also have a wide variety of sous vide recipes on our site.
Vicky WasikCookout season is upon us, and we couldn't be more excited to throw just about everything on the grill—ribs, steak, veggies, you name it. But a cookout table isn't complete without an array of sides to accompany the main event. Looking for a classic potato salad? How about some crispy and tender hush puppies? Keep reading for the best BBQ sides that just might steal the show.
Classic Potato SaladSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergTangy, salty, and sweet, this potato salad has a texture that's simultaneously creamy, crunchy, and fluffy in each bite.
The Best Barbecue BeansJoshua BouselTender and creamy beans infused with a deep, complex barbecue flavor—what better to serve next to all those grilled meats?
Classic ColeslawLiz ClaymanThis creamy, tangy slaw stays crunchy thanks to a little moisture management.
Classic Baked Macaroni and Cheese Casserole With Cheddar and GruyèrePhotograph: Vicky Wasik. Video: Natalie HoltThis dish is packed with cheese, both in a smooth béchamel sauce and plenty of the grated good stuff.
3-Ingredient Stovetop Mac and CheesePhotographs: Vicky Wasik. Video: J. Kenji López-AltA mac and cheese recipe with fewer ingredients than the boxed version, but comes together in the same amount of time? We'll take it!
Moist and Tender Brown Butter CornbreadJ. Kenji Lopez-AltThis recipe yields moist and tender cornbread with lots of corn flavor.
Southern-Style Unsweetened Cornbread RecipeSerious Eats / Mariel De La CruzIf you believe sugar has no place in cornbread, this recipe's for you.
Mexican Street Corn Salad (Esquites)Esquites is a less messy, no-grill-required way to enjoy all the flavors of Mexican elotes.Diana ChistrugaAll the delights of elotes in salad form, and you don't even have to fire up the grill to make it.
The Best Basic Grilled CornVicky WasikEach method of grilling corn has its advantages and drawbacks, but they all come out incredibly delicious.
Buttermilk HushpuppiesYvonne RupertiThese fried nuggets of cornmeal batter are crunchy on the outside and tender on the inside.
The Food Lab's Buttermilk BiscuitsLiz VoltzA few simple techniques and some extra folding create the flakiest biscuits.
German Potato SaladSerious Eats / Diana ChistrugaThe combo of salty smoked meat and tangy vinegar in this German potato salad is a perfect complement to American barbecue.
Braised Collard Greens With Ham HocksVicky WasikA classic pot of braised collards has deep, smoky pork flavor and meltingly tender greens.
Tangy and Creamy Macaroni SaladVicky WasikThis recipe, takes the standard and gives it a depth and tang that makes it stand out in a crowd.
Blistered-Tomato Pasta Salad With BasilDaniel GritzerCooked-until-bursting tomatoes make a beautiful sauce for this summery pasta salad.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe vacuum sealer is a rather ingenious device that sucks the air out of a plastic bag before sealing it shut, preserving food and keeping moisture out. Do you tire of squeezing air out of zipper-lock bags for sous vide? Do you find that you're constantly throwing away freezer-burned food and stale snacks? A vacuum sealer may be right for you!
The vacuum sealers on the market today generally fall into two categories: handheld and countertop (we'll introduce a third, rarer option shortly). The former requires special bags with zip-top enclosures that work well for short-term storage, but could fail under certain conditions (like months in the freezer or long hours in a warm sous vide water bath). Countertop sealers are larger and seal the bag shut by melting the two sides together, a feature that makes the seal last longer. There is also technically a third style of vacuum sealer, the chamber sealer, that is most often used in commercial applications (though we did review one marketed towards home cooks—the Anova Precision Chamber Vacuum Sealer—and liked it). But which type of vacuum sealer is right for you? Here, we focused on countertop and handheld vacuum sealers, diving into their differences so you can choose which is best for your needs.
Countertop Vacuum SealersCountertop vacuum sealers are sometimes referred to as channel sealers or edge sealers and feature a bar that heats up and melts the two sides of the plastic bag shut after removing the air. This type of sealer can be used with pre-cut bags or rolls that can be cut and sealed to a custom size. It's great for freezing, sous vide cooking, and even just keeping pantry items fresher for longer.
The ProsSerious Eats / Russell KilgoreCountertop models allow you to set and forget when it comes to sealing. Many models have the technology to detect precisely when the suction should end with regard to the type of food, eliminating the guesswork. In our testing, our favorites were reasonably priced, had simple controls, and reliably produced strong seals that held up to all kinds of tests. Some, like the Nesco Deluxe Food VS-12 sealer, were strong enough to remove all the air from irregular foods like a bone-in pork chop without breaking the plastic, but also delicate and “smart” enough not to crush Chex cereal. Many of the better models, like the Anova Pro, come with built-in storage for bags and a handy cutter. This model also lets you seal wet items, like chicken in a marinade, without sucking liquid up through the seal during the vacuum process.
The other nice thing about many countertop sealers is that you don’t need brand-specific bags, which are often more expensive. Instead, you can buy bags from third-party vendors for less than $1 a foot.
The ConsThe biggest cons with countertop vacuum sealers are that they are large and expensive. If you only vacuum seal sporadically, a big sealer might not be worth the cash and storage space. Aside from that, one minor quibble is that the bags for countertop vacuum sealers aren't really meant to be reused, while the bags that come with handheld sealer are designed (in theory) to be used repeatedly.
Handheld Vacuum SealersUnlike their bulkier countertop cousins, handheld vacuum sealers are small, lightweight devices meant to fit in one hand. Some run on batteries (either disposable or rechargeable), and others employ a manual pump to remove air. Both kinds use special bags fitted with a one-way valve that attaches to the sealer. The bags are sealed with a zipper at the top that allows for easy opening and closing.
The ProsSerious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe bags for a handheld vacuum sealer can be reused as long as the plastic isn’t punctured, and some have attachments to fit onto food storage containers and mason jars, which is something most countertop sealers can’t do. Handheld sealers also tend to be much smaller, lighter, and cheaper. These attributes make this type of sealer a good choice for those with less storage space or who might only vacuum seal sporadically.
The Cons Handheld sealers require you to monitor the suction process, and you have to decide when to stop the device (unlike countertop sealers, which allow you to press a button and walk away). They use disposable or rechargeable batteries, and some can be operated manually (pump it!), but these tend to stink (sorry). In our test of vacuum sealers, we evaluated four handheld options, and two were surprisingly okay: the FoodSaver Handheld Cordless Vacuum Sealer and the Anova Precision Port Handheld Vacuum Sealer. Both were pretty easy to use, did a decent job suctioning and sealing, and were small and easy to stash away. The other two tested had some issues, with seals that failed to stay tight during various tests (if you want to seal anything in a marinade with them, good luck!). Overall, their power and seal quality just weren't as good as a countertop sealer. Also, handheld sealers require you to buy the bags from the manufacturer, as only those will have a valve compatible with the sealer. Plus, countertop sealers often have built-in bag cutting, which is a nice perk.
Handheld vs. Countertop Vacuum Sealers: Which Should I Buy?Both handheld and countertop vacuum sealers have the same goal (vacuum suctioning and sealing), but choosing which is best for your needs comes down to how often you intend to use it, among other things. Let’s take a look at some of the key differences:
A small drawback of countertop sealers is that, as you open and close the bag, you have to cut the edges where it was sealed, and if you want to re-seal it, well, your bag just got smaller. While this isn't a dealbreaker for us (you could just use a new bag), countertop sealers do tend to be more expensive and rather large compared to more petite handheld offerings.
On the flip side, countertop sealers can produce an extremely durable seal that won’t fail. In our testing, we placed sealed bags into a water bath (at 200°F) for 36 hours, and the best ones didn’t budge or leak. This comes in handy if you plan to subject one package of food to a range of environments, such as marinating a cut of beef before freezing it, then using sous vide to cook it later. If your seal fails during cooking, all that work will end up as wasted (and waterlogged) food.
The TakeawaySerious Eats / Russell KilgoreIn general, we recommend countertop vacuum sealers (our favorites were from Nesco and Anova) because they offer a much wider range of functions and often seal better than their handheld counterparts. Plus, the higher cost of the bags for handheld sealers can add up quickly.
FAQsWhat is a vacuum sealer good for?A vacuum sealer is good for extending the shelf-life of food, which can reduce waste. Beyond edible items, vacuum sealers can also help preserve important items and keep them safe from moisture and air.
Do I need a vacuum sealer?Almost anyone can use a vacuum sealer for one project or another, but if you want to make the most of bulk shopping or are interested in trying sous vide cooking, you definitely need one. Even if you just need to freeze meat or vegetables occasionally, a vacuum sealer is great at preventing freezer burn.
Are countertop vacuum sealers worth it? Countertop vacuum sealers are better for batch sealing projects and can be operated hands-free. This type of sealer generally has a more powerful motor and comes with a sealing bar, which is less prone to leakage than a zip-top bag. The value of a countertop vacuum sealer will vary from person to person, depending on lifestyle.
Are handheld vacuum sealers worth it?Handheld vacuum sealers may be worth it for those that are interested in meal prep or small-scale preservation, but won’t use it often enough to justify the cost (and countertop space) of a countertop model.
Can you vacuum seal without a machine?You can remove most of the air from a Ziploc bag with a simple technique, which can serve in a pinch. Remember that this method is “nearly air-free,” and you may find some differences between these results and using a proper vacuum sealer.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikGrowing up in a Chinese American home, we had exactly two knives: a paring knife and a cleaver. My dad used the cleaver for nearly every cutting task: breaking down poultry, fileting fish, mincing garlic, julienning carrots, and so on. The knife saw a lot of daily wear and tear—I can still recall the loud thud of the cleaver hitting the wooden cutting board as he split apart a whole poached soy sauce chicken and the constant scraping to bring aromatics from prep surface to bowl.
As a professional cook, my dad knew that a dull knife is a dangerous one and was meticulous about keeping ours sharp. Every so often, he’d reach for the dark gray whetstone tucked underneath the sink and sharpen the cleaver, holding it at an angle while gently gliding its edge over the water-soaked stone.
I didn’t know it then, but I do know now that using a whetstone is by far the best way to keep knives sharp. It’s also a process that many home cooks find intimidating, which is why, if you don’t want to do it yourself, it’s best to seek out a trusted professional. (We also don’t recommend most electric and certainly not manual knife sharpeners, which shave off a lot of material and only provide a so-so edge.)
“Properly sharpening knives requires skill and attention to detail that is only gained through experience,” says fourth-generation knife grinder Michael Maestri, who runs both Carisolo Grinding Co., a Wisconsin-based sharpening company, and Post Knife, a knife subscription service. “It can be difficult to find a qualified knife sharpener and, on top of that, it can be difficult to find the time to drop off knives at a store and then pick them up.”
Thanks to the internet, professional sharpeners like Maestri now take orders online and knives by mail. If your knives are due for their biannual sharpening, you may want to consider trying a mail-in knife sharpening service—here’s how they work.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWhen Mikael Soderlindh and Marc Lickfett started Knife Aid, their goal was simple—to make knife sharpening hassle free—and the company’s process is just that. Customers select one of Knife Aid’s preset packages—which start at four knives and go all the way up to 14—and they’ll get a specially-designed, insured envelope in the mail, along with protective knife sleeves. Once received, knives are hand-sharpened and air-cooled at a workshop led by knifesmith Magnus Pettersson. They handle knife repairs in addition to sharpening and accept a wide variety of cutting instruments, including scissors and serrated knives.
Knife Aid is also the recommended mail-in sharpening service of choice for German knife maker Zwilling J.A. Henckels. “We wanted to provide our customers with an easy-to-use full service knife sharpening option, including knife repair. Knife Aid’s innovative service and high quality made it a perfect complement to our brands,” says CEO Guido Weishaupt.
Good to Know Types of knives serviced: Both Western and Japanese-style kitchen knives (including single bevel ones), serrated knives, ceramic knives, and scissors * Price range: Starts at $49 for 4 knives; additional charges for extra services * Turnaround time:* 4 to 7 days, depending on your location
Carisolo Grinding Service has been in the knife business for four generations. Named after the Italian town where the founding family came from, Carisolo is currently run by Michael and Peter Alex Maestri, who learned the craft of knife grinding from their father (who learned it from his father, you get the idea) and continue to do things the traditional way.
Life Knife Aid, Carisolo also operates on a package model, with rates starting at $72 for up to five kitchen knives and a maximum of 20. The price also covers packaging materials, which will arrive at your home, plus all shipping costs. Once received, the Maestris will look at each knife and repair any chips or broken tips. Knives are then hand-edged over a wet grindstone, before they’re honed and buffed.
Good to Know Types of knives serviced: All kitchen knives * Price: Starts at $72 for up to 5 knives * Turnaround time:* 10 days
Founded in 1982 by Saori Kawano, New York City specialty shop Korin has long been a favorite amongst chefs for its extensive collection of Japanese cutlery. Knife enthusiasts from around the world travel here, not just to shop, but also to get their knives serviced by Vincent Kazuhito Lau, Korin’s resident sharpener.
For those who aren’t able to make the trek to Manhattan, Korin does accept knives via mail for sharpening. It handles both Western and Japanese-style knives, along with chip repair and rust cleaning for Western-style knives only. Unlike some other mail-in services, however, packaging isn’t provided, so customers are responsible for shipping costs and for taking extra precautions of their own when packing. To send a knife in for sharpening, print and fill out the form on Korin’s website, pack it up per its online instructions, and wait about a week for it to return sharper than ever.
Good to Know Types of knives serviced: Both Western and Japanese-style kitchen knives * Price range: $25 per Western-style knife, $65 per Japanese-style knife * Turnaround time:* 1 week
The idea for Knife Flight came to Jess and Kyle Miller at the start of the pandemic. The former restaurant owners saw that people were cooking more and, therefore, wearing down their knives more quickly. Everyone was stepping out less, which meant they were most definitely not bringing their knives to a local store for sharpening.
Rates for Knife Flight start at $57 for four or fewer knives and go up to $157 for 15. They send out a shipping kit within 24 hours of your order time that includes a mailing envelope and adhesive sheaths. Once knives reach them, they’re photographed, sharpened, and mailed out again within a 24-hour time frame.
Unlike other mail-in knife sharpening services, Knife Flight offers loaner knives (for an additional charge), which is a reason why Sandy Liebowitz, a CIA-trained cooking instructor who runs an online knife skills course, recommends it to her students. “They are a family business and get the knives nice and sharp, but the best part is that they send you loaner knives while you wait. I thought that part was genius.”
Good to Know Type of knives serviced: Both Western and Japanese-style kitchen knives, bread knives, ceramic knives, mandoline blades, scissors, garden shears * Price range: Starting at $57 for 4 knives * Turnaround time:* 1 week
FAQsSerious Eats / Vicky WasikHow much do knife sharpening services cost? Knife sharpening costs will vary, especially when using a mail-in service. From what we found, most companies have a starting rate that covers up to a handful of knives, so it’s most worth it to send in that many rather than just one piece. Generally, the more you sharpen at a time, the lower the cost per knife will be.
Do any brands have their own knife sharpening service? Yes! Several cutlery brands provide knife sharpening services for their knives, including the following:
- Shun offers a free lifetime sharpening service for its Kai knives (you’ll have to handle shipping and packaging costs).
- Misen has a lifetime sharpening program—simply pay a $14 postage free and they’ll send your knife to a sharpening facility.
- MAC, the Japanese knife maker, provides mail-in sharpening for a fee and uses the same equipment and technique as its Seki City factory. They’ll also take non-MAC knives (for a higher fee), which is a bonus for home cooks who have several brands in their collection.
Vicky WasikI can’t begin to count how many times I’ve neededbreadcrumbs for a recipe, only to go to the pantry to discover I’d run out. I use them so often—for everything from cutlets to fish and topping pastas—that I can hardly keep up. The solution (in addition to maintaining a better weekly shopping list) is to keep myself in good supply by making my own. It's not only incredibly easy, it's also a great way to make use of leftover bread that's past its prime, allowing you to stock up on breadcrumbs while minimizing food waste. You can also make breadcrumbs from fresh bread in a pinch by drying it in a low oven, a handy trick for when you're out of both store-bought breadcrumbs and stale old bread.
Homemade breadcrumbs can be made from a variety of bread types, like sourdough, white bread, and rye, and can come from crusty rustic loaves or basic sandwich bread. There will be differences in flavor and texture, depending on what kind of bread you use, but in all but the most extreme cases, the breadcrumbs can be used interchangeably. The one thing to try to avoid are loaves of bread studded with seeds, nuts, dried fruit, and other add-ins, which can gunk up the batch and throw off recipe results.
Breadcrumbs are made by pulsing stale or oven-dried bread in a food processor until the bread breaks down into small crumbs. The exact size of the crumbs depends on personal preference and at times specific recipe needs, though it's generally better to err on the side of larger crumbs, since they can always be crushed or processed more if a finer grind is needed. Be careful not to overprocess the bread, though, or you’ll be left with an overly fine powder.
Vicky WasikIt's also generally better to leave the breadcrumbs untoasted and unseasoned for storage. That will give you the most versatility for later use—you can toast and season them later if, say, you want to use them as a garnish for pasta, or leave them untoasted to use as a coating for cutlets, since they'll brown during the frying process.
As for whether to remove the crusts or not, that's harder to say. Crusts can often be left on, though more rustic loaves with dark and thick crusts will produce breadcrumbs with a noticeable proportion of deeply browned bits. Those crusty breadcrumbs may be delicious when used as a garnish for pastas but could over-brown during deep-frying. The most versatile breadcrumbs are arguably free of very dark crust, but again, it ultimately depends on what you're likely to do with them.
Seasoned Breadcrumbs: Ideas for Adding FlavorWhether homemade or store-bought, breadcrumbs are open to a wide range of flavoring and seasoning possibilities. Keep in mind that adding fresh seasonings to your breadcrumbs will shorten their lifespan, so you can always keep a batch of the plain breadcrumbs on hand and add the fresh ingredients on a recipe-by-recipe basis.
Vicky WasikSome of our favorite seasoning options include:
- Salt: The most basic seasoning, salt improves breadcrumbs just as it improves any food, making flavors pop.
- Fresh or dried herbs: Dried herbs are best limited to woodsy herbs like oregano, sage, rosemary, and thyme, which retain their flavor even when dried. If using fresh herbs, you can use any of those same woodsy herbs as well as more delicate fresh ones like finely minced parsley, chives, and tarragon.
- Spices: Freshly ground black pepper is the most obvious choice here (so obvious some might have listed it alongside salt above), but it's not the only one. Garlic and onion powder, ground coriander, fennel, or cumin seeds, and flavor powerhouses like smoked paprika are just some examples of spices that would be welcome in many breadcrumb mixtures.
- Citrus zest: The zest of lemon and orange in particular can work wonders in a breadcrumb mixture. We've used lemon zest before to make "gremolata" breadcrumbs along with minced fresh parsley and garlic.
- Fresh garlic and other alliums: Building on the gremolata breadcrumbs idea just mentioned, fresh minced garlic, shallots, or scallions can add depth and dimension. Minced chives could also be listed here, if you didn't want to think of them as herbs.
- Oils: If you're planning on toasting your breadcrumbs before using them as a garnish, or if you're air-frying or oven-roasting a food with a breadcrumb exterior, such as in these avocado fries, moistening the breadcrumbs with oil will improve how evenly the breadcrumbs toast while avoiding an overly dry texture. Just add the oil with care, since a little bit goes a long way.
- Grated cheeses: Finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, Pecorino Romano, and other aged cheeses are another excellent addition to a breadcrumb mixture.
If desired, trim crust from bread; basic white sandwich bread with soft, light crusts generally won't require it, but you may want to remove the dark crusts from more rustic deeply baked loaves, depending on how you plan to use the breadcrumbs (see headnote above for more). Cut bread into 3/4- to 1-inch pieces.
If using fresh or lightly stale bread, adjust oven rack to middle position, and preheat oven to 325°F (165°C). (If using fully stale and dried bread, skip baking step.) Arrange bread in single layer on rimmed baking sheet, and bake until completely dried, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven, and allow to cool to room temperature, about 5 minutes.
Transfer bread to food processor bowl and pulse until reduced to small crumbs, taking care not to over-process into a fine powder, 8 to 10 pulses (exact number of pulses can vary quite a bit depending on the food process, bread type, and other factors). Add salt to taste. Store breadcrumbs until ready to use.
Special EquipmentFood processor
Make-Ahead and StorageUntoasted, the breadcrumbs can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 months. Adding fresh seasonings like parsley and lemon zest will shorten the lifespan of breadcrumbs to about 2 weeks.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMuch to my doctor’s displeasure, I can't stay away from fried foods. I have a weak spot for French fries, doughnuts, and all kinds of crispy, golden brown foods—something that is, unfortunately, reflected in my devastatingly high cholesterol levels. They're not a new invention, but it was only recently that I ate my first avocado fry, and while I won’t pretend they're as good as French fries—they’re not—avocado fries are delicious in their own way, crispy and golden brown on the outside and buttery within.
One could, of course, actually fry an avocado fry, but for this recipe I opted for the oven or an air fryer, because, let's be honest, if real frying is involved, I'm going with French fries. And the truth is, with just a few thoughtful techniques, this not-actually-fried snack simulates frying well enough to earn a welcome spot among the deep-fried foods I live for.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThere are two main steps to nailing great avocado fries. The first is properly selecting your avocado so that it's just ripe enough, but not so soft it'll fall apart while you're cooking. The second is being thoughtful about the breadcrumbs, in order to get the crispiest, most flavorful coating that mimics a fried food's evenly golden-brown exterior. After that, you just have to decide whether you're going to use an oven or an air fryer to cook them (short answer: if you have an air fryer, use it).
How to Pick Avocados for Avocado FriesIf you have a bunch of soft, ripe avocados sitting on your kitchen counter, this is not the recipe for them. It’s tempting to think that perfectly ripe avocados are always better for cooking and eating, but in the case of avocado fries—where we have to be able to peel, slice, and coat the avocado before cooking it—we want fruit that are ripe but on the firmer side.
The ideal avocado for this is one that gives just slightly when you gently press the fruit near the stem end, with flesh that’s a vivid pale green. Once cooked, the slightly too-firm slices will soften to the exact buttery texture we want from an avocado. Avoid rock-hard, under-ripe avocados; not only will they be a pain to cut into and pit, but they may also have an unpleasant bitter flavor.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Road to the Best Breadcrumb CoatingYou might be wondering: why panko and not breadcrumbs? Panko is airier and less dense, and makes a crispier, crunchier coating than breadcrumbs. It’s important, however, to crush some of the panko to reduce overly large flakes. In my early batches, the coloring was uneven, with parts of the avocado fries browning faster than others due to bits of panko that were too big, exposing the bits that stuck out further to a more intense blast of heat. An easy solution to this was to hand-crush the panko, so we’d end up with pieces that weren’t quite as large as out-of-the-box panko, but not quite as fine as standard breadcrumbs.
Just as important as the breadcrumbs themselves is what you do to them. The key to even browning is to toss the panko with oil so each breadcrumb becomes evenly saturated—the oil acts as a conductor for heat and helps us successfully mimic that fried effect we’re after.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSecond, if we can add more flavor to the avocado fries, the breadcrumb coating is one of our best options for doing that (well, aside from a flavorful dipping sauce). There are no hard and fast rules for how you should season your panko, and if you’re happy with just salt and pepper, that’s totally fine—but this is also a great opportunity to open up your spice drawer and have a bit of fun. For a tangy, slightly spiced kick, I incorporated Tajín, a Mexican seasoning blend made of chiles, limes, and salt, into my panko mixture. Just as lime juice makes guacamole sing, Tajín lends a bright, zesty pop that complements the creamy, buttery flavor of avocado. No Tajín? Try mixing in smoked paprika for an earthy sweetness or crushed Sichuan peppercorns for a bit of málà heat. The possibilities are endless, and they do make a difference: After rounds of testing, I didn't want to go back to plain salt-and-pepper–seasoned bread crumbs, so while the seasonings are optional in the recipe, I highly recommend them.
Air Fryer vs. OvenThanks to the air fryer, making crispy, crunchy food at home has become both easier and faster. These small but mighty machines function like small convection ovens by rapidly circulating hot air within the cooking chamber, resulting in faster cooking and more even browning. Though the fries you make in the air fryer will never be as golden and crunchy as ones made in a deep fryer, they come pretty darn close. And the best part? You don’t have to set up a pot of fryer oil, wait for it to come to temperature, and watch your fries like a hawk as you wait for them to cook.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
If you don’t have an air fryer, don’t fret—I've developed an oven method for these avocado fries, too. All you have to do is bake the avocado fries in the oven at 400ºF for 18 minutes—flipping halfway through—until the avocado fries are crisp. It’s not quite as speedy as the air fryer, and the avocado fries don't come out quite as evenly browned, but it’ll satisfy that craving for a crispy, crunchy snack.
In a medium bowl, lightly crush the panko with your hands until it is sandy in texture. Stir in tajín (if using), salt, and garlic powder. Drizzle in olive oil, mixing well to combine.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezHalve and pit the avocados, then lay them, flat side down, on a clean work surface. Gently pull the peel back and discard. Slice each avocado lengthwise into 8 pieces. Working with one avocado slice at a time, dip in the lightly beaten egg to coat, then lift and allow excess to drip off. Transfer to the panko mixture and gently toss to coat well. Transfer to a platter and repeat with remaining avocado slices.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPreheat air fryer to 350ºF (175ºC) on the air fry setting. Place 8 avocado slices into the air fryer basket and cook, flipping halfway through, until the fries are crisp and golden brown all over, 8 minutes. Repeat with remaining avocado slices. Serve immediately, with dipping sauces if desired.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentAir fryer
NotesTo make these fries in the oven, adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 425ºF (220ºC). Bake avocado fries on a rimmed baking sheet for 18 minutes, flipping halfway through, until crisp and golden brown.
Photographs: Daniel GritzerThe humble potato can take on many forms—mashed, fried, baked, smashed—and still manage to satisfy us. They particularly work well at dinnertime, either next to mains like steak and roasted chicken or where they take the stage as a main course. From chewy gnocchi and fluffy mashed potatoes to a savory soup and roasted options, these are our favorite potato recipes for dinner.
The Best Crispy Roast Potatoes EverSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThese are the most flavorful crispy roast potatoes you'll ever make—and they just happen to be gluten-free and vegan (if you use oil) to boot.
The Best Potato-Leek SoupSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergThis easy potato-leek soup takes no shortcuts to deliver the best flavor and texture possible.
Hasselback Potato GratinDiana ChistrugaHasselback potato gratin has all the creamy decadence of a classic potato gratin but with more crispy edges.
Gamja Bokkeum (Korean Sweet Soy-Glazed Potatoes)Vicky WasikThis is a simple glazed potato banchan you won't be able to stop making, or eating.
Pommes Aligot (Cheesy Mashed Potatoes)Vicky WasikRich, stretchy, smooth, and silky French mashed potatoes—this is pommes aligot in all its glory.
Ultra-Fluffy Mashed Potatoes[Image: Vicky Wasik]For the fluffiest and lightest mashed potatoes, use Russets and rinse off excess potato starch before and after cooking.
Pommes de Terre Fondantes (Fondant Potatoes)Vicky WasikFor the best French melting potatoes, cook them like meat.
The Ultimate Baked PotatoPhotograph and video: Vicky WasikHere's how to get the crispest skin, the creamiest, fluffiest flesh, and how to work the very best flavor into every last bite of your next baked potato.
Patates Lemonates (Greek Lemon Potatoes)Vicky WasikThese Greek lemon potatoes are a side dish that easily upstages any main.
Crispy Smashed PotatoesSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergGolden brown and unbelievably crispy, with a great creamy center—you'll want these crispy smashed potatoes on the table for dinner tonight.
Classic Rich and Silky Potato Gratin (Scalloped Potatoes)Vicky WasikAfter rounds and rounds of testing, we've finally landed on the perfect classic potato gratin (scalloped potatoes), one that's creamy, silky, and loaded with flavor.
Pommes Duchesse (Duchess Potatoes)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPommes duchesse are the fanciest, fussiest mashed potatoes around (but they're totally worth it!).
Tartiflette[Image: Vicky Wasik]This gooey, creamy baked casserole of potatoes, cream, cheese, bacon, and onions is true French mountain food.
Suanla Tudousi (Hot-and-Sour Sichuan Stir-Fried Potatoes)[Image: Vicky Wasik]Acidity, crisp-tender texture, and a tingle of numbing heat is what makes these stir-fried potatoes so delicious.
Potato and Cheese PierogiVicky WasikPierogis are creamy, crispy Eastern European potato dumplings that you'll easily devour.
Aloo GobiVicky WasikCreamy potatoes and tender cauliflower come together in a spiced tomato-based sauce.
Aloo TikkiVicky WasikThese salty, spiced potato patties are inspired by the iconic Punjabi Deli in the East Village of New York City.
Causa (Peruvian Cold Mashed Potato Casserole With Tuna or Chicken)Causa is everything Americans love—mashed potatoes, tuna (or chicken) salad, and potato salad—all compressed into one easy make-ahead Peruvian casserole.
Salchipapa (Peruvian Hot Dogs and French Fries)[Image: Vicky Wasik]Peru's irresistible platter of hot dogs and French fries pulls no punches.
Tater Tot Casserole (Hotdish)Vicky WasikThe Tater Tot hotdish is, hands down, the most epic version of a one-pot wonder.
Easy Vegan Pan Pizza With Potato, Onion, and RosemarySerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThin slices of potato shingled on top of a moist pizza bianca dough, strewn with onions, and drizzled with olive oil—what more could we ask for?
Skillet Potatoes With Cajun Blackening Spices and Buttermilk-Herb SauceMorgan EisenbergThese Cajun-spiced baby potatoes—first boiled until creamy, then crisped in a skillet, and finally topped with a cooling buttermilk-herb dressing—have some serious star power.
Gaeng Garee Makheua Yao (Thai Yellow Curry with Eggplant)Vicky WasikYes, a 100% vegetarian Thai curry can be delicious!
Aloo Samosa (Samosa Stuffed With Spiced Potato and Peas)Andrew JanjigianA classic savory samosa, one stuffed with spiced potatoes and peas, is easy to make at home.
Classic, Savory Shepherd's Pie (With Beef and/or Lamb)Vicky WasikBritain's mashed-potato-topped meat and vegetable casserole is everything you want in a dinner.
Fully Loaded Vegan Baked Potato SoupSerious Eats / Qi AiCreamy, rich, packed with cheesy flavor, and 100% vegan—these is a potato soup you'll eat right up.
Gnocchi Alla Bava (Potato Gnocchi With Fontina Cheese Sauce)Daniel GritzerGnocchi alla bava features tender and lightly sweet potato gnocchi in a rich and creamy Fontina cheese sauce, flavored with a touch of black pepper and nutmeg.
Gnocchi Alla Sorrentina (Baked Gnocchi With Tomato and Mozzarella)Daniel GritzerGnocchi alla Sorrentina is a Southern Italian baked pasta starring plump potato gnocchi. The secret to success is to get each component right, from the tomato sauce to the mozzarella, and to use homemade gnocchi that hold their shape but remain tender.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubNot every soda maker is built the same. While most models do a fine job carbonating water, the best ones are easy to use…and look great on your countertop.
For those looking to invest in a soda maker and devest in your storebought seltzer consumption, you’re in luck. Right now, our favorite model, from SodaStream, is 40% off.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubTo buy: SodaStream Art Soda Maker was $150, now $90 at amazon.com
Why It Won Our ReviewWhen we tested soda makers, many of the models made similarly bubbly water and held their carbonation for 24 hours. And while The SodaStream Art produced slightly finer bubbles than the competition (which we liked), it was its usability features that made it stand out. To start, the back of the Art flips outwards for easy CO2 canister insertion. Other models required you to tilt the soda maker or lay it on its side to insert the canister, both of which felt awkward. We also really liked the lever on the Art: it was easier to feel the amount of carbonation with each pull versus the push of a button—and it gave the machine a sleek retro look.
Really, its only downside was its price, as it was more expensive than other models we tested. Now that it’s on sale, though, it’s a great deal we think any sparkling water fan should snag.
Good to Know: * Height: 17 inches * Bottle material: Plastic * Bottle size: 840 milliliters * Compatible bottles: 1-liter classic bottles, 1-liter slim bottles, 0.5-liter bottles * Canister style: SodaStream Quick Connect CO2 cylinder * Comes with: 1 CO2 cylinder and bottle * Warranty: 2-year limited warranty
FAQsWhat bottles work with the SodaStream Art?The SodaStream Art is compatible with any of the plastic SodaSteam bottles, including the slim 1-liter bottles, the classic 1-liter bottles, and the half-liter plastic bottles. The only ones that aren't compatible with the Art are the glass bottles that are designed for the Aqua Fizz.
What’s the difference between the SodaSteam Art and other models?The main difference between the SodaStream Art and other models (like the Jet and the Terra) is that the Art features a lever to trigger CO2 infusions while other models use buttons. In our testing, the lever was easier to control and gave us a better gauge of how much carbonation was added with each pull.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe humble microwave—ubiquitous in office break rooms, hotel lobbies, and probably your own kitchen—is nothing if not convenient. After all, it’s a box in which you can put last night’s leftovers (or a frozen burrito; no judgment here), push a couple of buttons, and wait for the magic of electromagnetism to bring your food back to life within minutes. Pretty cool!
But what actually is a microwave oven and how does it work? Well, it all begins with a guy named Percy who accidentally cooked a candy bar in his pocket.
A Tale as Old as Time: A Brief History of the MicrowaveOK, so, it’s 1946. Percy Spencer is an engineer working for a magnetron company called Raytheon, and one day he’s hanging out in the radar lab when he notices that the snack he’d stashed in his pocket is getting awfully warm.
Spencer experiments with bringing popcorn and eggs into the lab over the next couple of days. It doesn’t take him long to understand that active magnetrons have the power to cook food—and quickly at that. He files some patents and the rest, they say, is history.
What Is a Microwave?Serious Eats / Will DickeyThe appliance we know and love is a type of oven. Microwaves are the actual electromagnetic waves generated in magnetrons, and they get zapped around inside the confines of the oven—hence the ingeniously named microwave oven.
Microwaves work by reflecting off of the metal surfaces inside the oven, and the food you’ve placed inside absorbs those waves. The FDA simplifies it by stating that “microwaves cause water molecules in food to vibrate, producing heat that cooks the food.”
This is also why, while relatively fast-acting, microwaves often yield food that is unevenly warmed. The inner depths of, say, a Hot Pocket or a bowl of soup just can’t absorb microwaves as readily as the outer layers.
Does Wattage Matter?Most modern microwave ovens operate between 600 and 1000 watts (and some higher than that), with the latter being the standard full-power number today. In general, a microwave with more watts is more powerful and will have faster cook (or heat) times.
Wattage also refers to the rate of electricity consumption, and microwaves are quite efficient. The average cost is about $10 per year, and that’s if you’re operating your microwave for 15 minutes a day.
What You Can (and Can’t) Put in the MicrowaveSerious Eats / Abigail ClarkinDespite their efficiency and ease of use, microwave ovens aren’t suitable for every kitchen context. Here’s what you can microwave safely:
- Glass and ceramics; though it’s best to avoid crystal, pottery, or anything handpainted
- Reusable plastics; which means yes to storage containers, no to that old yogurt tub you rinsed out three months ago
- Paper plates, paper towels, and napkins
- Food storage bags
And here’s what you can’t microwave safely:
- Metal, including aluminum foil*
- Cardboard, which may contain adhesives or waxes
- Styrofoam, unless it’s labeled as microwave-safe
*Technology has advanced and the age-old wisdom to avoid putting metal in the microwave isn’t necessarily still always accurate. The metal rings on Anyday microwave-safe cookware, for example, are totally fine to go in the microwave, because the metal used is thick and smooth enough to reflect the microwaves instead of arcing—which is what may happen if you were to heat a fork.
When in doubt, look for labels. Most serving ware, cookware, and storage vessels will have some indication as to whether they're microwave-safe or not.
What About Microwave Oven Presets? Serious Eats / Will DickeyLots of microwaves have special buttons for preset cooking modes—like the classic popcorn button. In truth, though, these presets usually aren’t worth getting excited about. They’re just preselected time and wattage levels that may or may not be adequate for the specific food or beverage you’re trying to heat.
What is useful, though, are the different power levels. Let’s say your microwave’s default is 1000 watts—that’s full power. Use it for the fastest heating, ideally with high water content foods such as soups and stews. For a small portion or a finicky ingredient (softening butter, perhaps), you might want to drop the power level down to 500 watts to avoid an exploding mess. Whirlpool has a great guide on microwave oven power levels. Understanding how to adjust these settings can help you make the most of your appliance.
Again, most microwaves on sale today will run at around 1000 watts out of the box, which is plenty (and you can adjust it). Buy according to size and your budget—not the number of presets.
What Can You Cook in a Microwave? Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinCooking with a microwave may not feel as lavish as firing up your conventional oven, but these little boxes can sure be handy—especially when you're short on time (or, let’s be honest, motivation).
On this very site, we have recipes for things like fried garlic and shallots, rice, and chocolate cake all cooked in the microwave. You can even toast nuts in one.
Alternatively, there is microwave-specific cookware out there as well, like this set we reviewed from Anyday. Their website features entire meals you can cook in the microwave, like sloppy joes and coconut lime shrimp. You can even be that person who puts fish in the microwave.
FAQsHow long should a microwave last? As long as you’re not using it to heat metal objects, your microwave can easily last for seven to 10 years. You’ll know it may be singing on the last note if you notice weird sounds, smells, or foods that are improperly cooked. Or if it doesn’t actually heat your food up, which we’ve had happen.
What is a good wattage for a microwave?As we covered above, 1000 or more watts is ideal for modern microwaving needs.
What are the different sizes of microwaves?Microwave ovens generally range from 0.5 to 2.0 cubic feet in size. The smallest models will be countertop microwaves.
What are the different types of microwaves?You can find countertop, over-the-range, and built-in microwaves. Countertop models can plug in anywhere with a suitable outlet—perfect for small spaces, offices, and so on. Over-the-range microwaves will be installed above your stovetop and feature a venting mechanism, while built-in microwaves are designed to integrate with surrounding cabinetry.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonFestival is a uniquely Jamaican fried dumpling, completely different in texture and flavor to a Johnny cake, another Jamaican fried dumpling. Festival (always in the singular) are defined by their long oval shape and crisp golden crust, while Johnny cakes are round and do not have the sweetness and crumbly texture of a festival. The addition of cornmeal and sugar to the festival dough is what makes them unique and adds a layer of density, texture, and sweetness.
Festival are simply delicious; the crunchy, fried exterior is balanced by the moist, slightly sweet dough, making them very hard to stay away from and a great companion to spicy, savory dishes. They can be eaten as a snack, but are more commonly served as a side or accompaniment to a variety of Jamaican street foods.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonFestival are similar to hush puppies, the popular side dish in the American South. And, as in the American South, cornmeal was an important part of the early Jamaican diet and shows up often in traditional country-style Jamaican cooking. Cornmeal’s popularity originates from the 18th century when enslaved workers were provisioned with a weekly allotment of cornmeal and salted fish from plantation owners. Naturally, this resulted in a variety of popular cornmeal dishes that range all the way from savory to sweet. Some other examples of how cornmeal has been incorporated into Jamaican cooking include: duckunoo, a sweet cornmeal and coconut pastry that is wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed; cornmeal porridge, a classic hearty, creamy, and sweet breakfast dish; cornmeal pone, a sweet and dense steamed pudding made from a combination of cornmeal, vanilla, coconut, nutmeg, and brown sugar; and tun cornmeal, a savory polenta-type dish made with salt fish, coconut, okra, thyme, vegetables, and spices.
Among the many ways that one can enjoy festival, none is better than a meal of fried fish and festival at Hellshire Beach, in Kingston. Hellshire is a fishing village on the outskirts of Kingston, famous for its superior take on rustic beachside fare. Weekends are always most popular, with crowds lining up to have their weekly fix, but on any given day of the week you will find Jamaicans willing to take the 40-minute trek out to Hellshire to devour a plate of fried fish or fried lobster with festival.
Serious Eats / Karina Matalon
Festival is also served occasionally with jerk pork and jerk chicken. Many of the jerk centers around the island will offer a variety of sides, like roast breadfruit, roast yam, roast sweet potato, or fried green plantains, to go with the jerk, and festival is always a favorite choice here. The crisp, sweet, slightly dense starch of the festival is a great balance to temper the heat, spice, and saltiness of jerked meat or chicken. Festival also appears as a regular side at the breakfast table accompanying Jamaica’s national dish, ackee and saltfish, along with steamed callaloo, Johnny cakes, and fried plantain.
In a large mixing bowl, whisk together flour, cornmeal, brown sugar, baking powder, and salt.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonAdd melted butter and vanilla, if using, along with 2 1/2 cups (590ml) water. Mix with a clean hand until a firm yet elastic dough ball is formed that is neither wet nor sticky; add additional water, 1 tablespoon (15ml) at a time, if needed. Wrap dough ball in plastic wrap and let rest for 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer dough to a work surface and divide into eighteen 4-ounce pieces for large festival or twenty-four 3-ounce pieces for smaller festival.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonLightly flour works surface and hands. Working with one dough piece at a time, roll each dough piece into the shape of a long, fat cigar (about 6 to 8 inches long), dusting surfaces and hands with flour as needed.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonSet an oven to keep warm or its lowest setting. In a large Dutch oven or flat-bottomed wok, heat oil over medium-high heat until it registers 350°F (175°C) on an instant-read thermometer. Working in batches of about 3 at a time to avoid crowding oil, fry dough cigars until golden on first side, about 2 minutes. Turn festival and fry until second side is golden, about 2 minutes longer.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonTransfer to a paper-towel-lined platter; transfer platter to oven to keep festival warm. Repeat with remaining dough cigars. Serve festival with jerk pork, pan chicken, fried fish, and other savory dishes.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonSpecial EquipmentLarge Dutch oven or flat-bottomed wok
Make-Ahead and StorageThe dough can be refrigerated wrapped in plastic wrap after Step 2 for up to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreBuying a coffee grinder can be intimidating. Not every person needs to spend over $300 on a precision grinder, but many low-cost burr grinders aren’t up the task. Finding a balance between performance and price is tricky, and as a 16-year coffee industry vet, I think the OXO Brew Conical Burr Coffee Grinder walks that line excellently. As senior culinary editor Daniel Gritzer said in our coffee grinder review, “Priced at the low end of what a person can hope to pay for a decent burr grinder, this is the one to get if you want to up your coffee game by playing with grind settings but don't want to shell out for our other top picks.” And I agree with him—the next grinder I recommend is nearly 50% more expensive.
Burr grinders are built around two metal grinding disks that move closer and further apart to create finer and coarser coffee grounds, and the way those burrs are designed has a major impact on the quality of the ground coffee. Ultra cheap burr grinders use crushing burrs—meaning the metal disks have blunt bumps on them that crush the coffee into irregular shapes. The OXO Brew grinder, however, is the cheapest grinder I recommend that has cutting burrs, where the metal disks have sharpened teeth that grind coffee precisely.
Aside from our testing, our senior commerce editor Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm has used the OXO Brew grinder extensively at home. “The OXO was the first burr grinder I bought and it holds up years later: it grinds coffee quickly and couldn't be easier to use. With just one start/stop button and a top you twist to adjust the grind setting, it's just really great. Plus, at $100, it's very reasonably priced for a burr grinder,” she says. If you’ve been on the fence about making the transition from a spinning blade grinder to a burr grinder, the OXO grinder is a great choice (and easy on the wallet, compared to other quality grinders).
Vicky WasikTo buy: OXO Brew Conical Burr Coffee Grinder, $100 at amazon.com
Good to Know Dimensions: 7.5 by 5.25 by 12.5 inches * Weight: 4.5 pounds * Burr type: Stainless steel conical burrs * Number of grind settings: 15 (plus micro settings) * Warranty:* 2-year
FAQsDoes an expensive coffee grinder make a difference?High-end coffee grinders require powerful motors and more precise grinding burrs—and both of those things are pricey components. True coffee nerds will likely notice the difference in grind quality as the cost of the grinder goes up, but for most people, a moderately priced grinder (like the OXO Brew Coffee Grinder) will perform just fine.
How do you use an OXO Brew coffee grinder?The OXO Brew interface is fairly simple—there’s an adjustment collar, which grinds coffee coarser or finer, and a built-in timer, which you can set to stop grinding after a certain amount of time. For drip, pourover, and French press brewing, we recommend starting with a grind setting around eight and weighing your coffee out ahead of time.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWine is constantly evolving. Living organisms and the exchange of oxygen through porous, natural cork allow wine to continue to breathe and develop, even after it’s in the bottle. This is why the flavor of many wines improves with age. There’s one caveat here—and it’s a big one. For a wine to age well, it must be stored properly.
Excess exposure to light and heat during storage can ruin a bottle of wine, and investing in a wine fridge is one way to avoid the tragedy of a damaged Bordeaux. Even if you don’t intend to age or store wine for a long period of time at home, a wine fridge can be a useful way to keep wine at the proper drinking temperature and free up space in your main refrigerator.
Why Temperature Matters When It Comes to WineSerious Eats / Liz ClaymanThe temperature of a bottle makes a huge difference in how we perceive its flavor. When we consume wine, we’re using our sense of taste and smell. Our tongue detects basic flavors like salty, sweet, and bitter. Our sense of smell fills in the blanks—it picks up on subtle notes like fruit, spices, or herbs. Temperature affects both of these elements.
Our taste buds are extremely sensitive to heat and cold, as explained by America’s Test Kitchen. Cold temperatures cause tastebuds to shrink—making them less receptive to flavor. Marie Tribouilloy, the owner of Forêt Wines, describes this phenomenon simply, saying “Excess cold will numb your tongue.” A wine that’s consumed too cold will appear muted and flavorless. To observe the power of temperature, Tribouilloy encourages wine lovers to try this experiment at home: “Take a bottle of white wine out of the [kitchen] fridge and taste it right away. Then, let it warm up for 30 minutes and taste it again.”
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmTemperature also affects the wine itself on a molecular level. At high temperatures, molecules in the liquid are moving around quickly and freely. This means more of them escape into the air where we can experience their aroma. In wine, these are referred to as volatile aromatic compounds. The warmer the wine, the more of these compounds reach our noses. At a certain point, this can become a negative. Scott Carney, Master Sommelier and Dean of Wine Studies at the Institute of Culinary Education, describes the relationship between heat and wine, saying “As it warms up, it all becomes more apparent—all the good, all the bad, and all the everything.” Wines that are consumed too warm are more likely to reveal their flaws and may seem overripe or flabby.
Carney refers to the ideal temperature as the one that “flatters the wine.” The recommended serving temperature for red wines is slightly below room temperature, between 55ºF and 65ºF. In the wine world, this is commonly referred to as cellar temperature. The ideal temperature for white wines is between 45ºF and 50ºF. This is considerably warmer than the temperature of the average kitchen refrigerator, which is generally 40ºF or below. A dedicated wine fridge is an easy way to hold wine at the proper temperature while simultaneously protecting it from the elements.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Wine Fridge Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhether you’re aging your own wine, or just looking to keep a few bottles cold, these are the factors that wine enthusiasts of every level should consider when looking for a wine fridge.
Space Space is a major consideration when investing in a new appliance. Consider the available space in your home, as well as how many bottles you’d like to store. For the majority of wine enthusiasts, an under-the-counter wine fridge will offer more than enough space. If you refer to the wines in your home as a collection, you’re probably going to want something bigger.
Under-the-counter models can hold around 30 to 45 bottles. For serious collectors, larger fridges are available in the form of 48-inch wide lowboys or tall, vertical models that can store hundreds of bottles. When evaluating space, Carney recommends taking the listed capacity with a grain of salt. He explains that manufacturers calculate storage space using standard Bordeaux bottles. Although they hold the same amount of liquid, Bordeaux bottles are narrower than classic Burgundy, Zinfandel, or Chardonnay bottles.
Dual-Zone Temperature Control Many wine fridges are divided into sections with individual temperature control— allowing you to store wines at two different temperatures. Dual zones can be used to simultaneously store red and white wines at their optimal temperatures or to separate the bottles you’re cellaring from the bottles you intend to consume immediately.
UV Light Protection Exposure to sunlight can damage wines over time, creating a flaw called light strike. To protect your wines from harmful UV rays, look for a wine fridge with a double insulated glass or solid door.
How to Use a Wine Fridge To extend the life of your wine fridge, Carney emphasizes the importance of proper installation. The less stress you place on the compressor, the longer the product will last. Avoid placing your wine fridge flush against a wall, where the compressor will have to work overtime to exchange air. Keeping your wine fridge in a cooler area of your home, like a basement, will also limit how hard the compressor has to work.
After installation, set the fridge temperature and load in your wine. Wine bottles should always be stored on their side to prevent the cork from drying out. The racks in our favorite wine fridges are designed so that the bottles can be laid down horizontally. Most models will have notches on the shelves to hold individual bottles in place. Don’t overfill the shelves; one extra chilled bottle isn’t worth the risk of a collapse.
Which Wine Fridge Should You Buy?If you’re willing to dedicate a lot of space to a wine fridge, consider a full-sized product like the Bodega 70-inch DualZone Wine Chiller. This model can store up to 174 bottles. In addition to DualZones and double-paneled glass doors, this Bodega wine fridge features front-facing ventilation. That means that it can be installed against a wall without placing extra stress on the compressor. And while it is expensive, this correlates to its size and features.
For smaller spaces, we love the Wine Enthusiast 18-Bottle Slimline Dual Zone Wine Cooler.This narrow model offers premium features with a super small footprint. Wine Enthusiast is a trusted name in wine products with an excellent reputation for customer service and a warranty available on most items.
Yeego offers a less expensive option that still stores a full case of wine. Their 15-inch wine cooler can hold up to 33 bottles. Double-paned glass doors keep the temperature stable, and a one-year warranty protects your investment. This is a single-zone wine fridge. Although that somewhat limits storage options, it also reduces stress on the compressor, which may prolong the life of the product.
FAQsWhat’s the best temperature for wine? The ideal serving temperature depends on the style of wine. Sparkling wines should be served cold, between 43°F and 47°F. White wines should be served chilled, between 45ºF and 50ºF. Red wines should be served at cellar temperature, between 55ºF and 65ºF.
Should you put wine in the fridge?Storing wines long-term in the refrigerator isn’t recommended. The dry air in a refrigerator can dry out a wine cork, exposing your wine to oxygen, and diminishing its lifespan.
If you don’t have a wine fridge, you can use the refrigerator to chill your bottles. For white wines, place them in the refrigerator the day before, then take them out to warm up for about 15 minutes before serving. Store red wines at room temperature, then place them in the refrigerator for about 15 minutes before serving to add a slight chill.
Can you put red wine in a wine fridge? Yes! Some wine fridges have dual zones so that red and white wines can both be stored at optimal temperatures. For red wines, adjust the temperature to somewhere between 60ºF-65ºF.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyDrinking glasses are a necessity, whether you’re rehydrating with water, serving a casual spot of wine, or want to sip some orange juice with your pancakes on a Saturday morning.
But when we decided to tackle reviewing glassware, the sheer scale of options was a little intimidating—how do you narrow it down? Plus, talk about subjective! Just because you might like drinking from bright pink round orbs doesn’t mean the next person will.
In an attempt to narrow down the field, we chose highly-rated offerings and kept untraditional designs to a minimum (though a few more colorful options did slip in).
In the end, we were surprised at the winners, which were neither the plainest nor the fanciest of them all; instead, they were versatile, reliable, solid (yet still nice-looking) picks.
The Winners, at a GlanceOur testers loved these glasses. Everything about their design felt intentional and functional: the slightly flared lip made drinking water smooth, while the faceted sides helped you grip the glasses. Plus, after accidentally dropping a glass on a concrete floor, we can assure you of their durability.
A few bucks cheaper than the Duralex, these glasses have a similar look (faceted sides) and vibe (cafe/diner). They were durable, sturdy glasses that were a pleasure to drink from.
If you want a plain Jane glass that does the job, this no-frills option is a good pick. It’s the LBD of drinking glasses—it works for any occasion.
These cute (albeit, somewhat small) glasses were easy to grip, thanks to their slightly smaller bottoms—which also made them great stackers.
A far cry from childhood jam jars (which, if we’re honest, made great glasses), these stunners scream “I’m an accomplished adult.” But beyond their gorgeous aesthetic, all of our testers found these glasses great in practical ways, too. They were sturdy with a just-right lip thickness, and the pretty etched lines had a practical purpose: they helped you grip the glass.
The TestsSerious Eats / Grace Kelly Drinking Water Test: We had three users with different hand sizes use each glass to drink water. * Stacking Test: We stacked all the stackable glasses and examined how easily they fit together. * Seltzer and Ice Test (Winners-Only): We filled our winning glasses with 1/2 cup of ice and topped it with seltzer. We sipped from them and let them sit for 10 minutes to see if any condensation formed. * Durability and Cleaning Tests (Winners-Only):* We hand-washed our winning glasses with soap and water. We then dropped them in the sink three times, as if the glass slipped out of our hands while washing them.
What We LearnedThicker Glasses Were (Usually) Better Than Thin OnesSerious Eats / Grace KellyWhile the Our Place glasses bordered on too hefty (one user found the 4-millimeter thick rim impeded drinking), there was a sweet spot when it came to thickness. Overall, we preferred glasses with rims that were two to three millimeters thick, like those on the Luminarc and Duralex, respectively. Thinner glasses, like the 1-millimeter thick Borosil and the 1.5-millimeter-thick glasses from Fable, felt fragile and chintzy, with users complaining they had “sharp rims” and that they felt “very breakable.” We also preferred glasses that had thick bases, like the Riedels, which helped the glass stay put on the table and gave it a nice weightiness. Glasses like the Libbey Polaris, which had thin bases and curved bottoms, felt like they’d knock over more easily.
Faceted (or Grooved) Exterior Sides Were Good for GripWe loved faceted sides because they were easy to grip.Serious Eats / Grace KellyWe found, rather surprisingly, that testers preferred glasses that had faceted sides (like the Duralex and Bormioli Rocco Rock Bar) or that featured grooved lines on the exterior (like the Riedel). Instead of being annoying, these facets and lines helped us grip the glasses securely, as opposed to perfectly smooth sides. At first glance, the Ichendorf Milano Laguna Tumblers looked to have grooved exterior lines, but, puzzlingly, they were actually on the inside of the glass, which didn’t help with grip at all.
Users Disliked Plain, Straight-Edged GlassesUsers preferred glasses with a bit of flare to them over straight edged, almost rectangular-looking glasses.Serious Eats / Grace KellyA few glasses in the lineup, including the Borosil and Fable, featured almost rectangular silhouettes, with no flaring whatsoever. Some users thought these glasses looked “clinical” and more closely resembled chemistry beakers than drinking glasses. Conversely, users loved the elegant, ridged lines on the Riedels, as well as the classic silhouettes of the Duralex, which one user said resembled the glasses her grandmother used. While the Bormioli Rocco bodega glasses were the plainest of our winners, they did feature a slight flare outwards from the thicker base, which aided in grip and also looked nice.
Quality Craftsmanship Made an Impression—and Sloppy Manufacturing Did, TooSome of the glasses in the Libbey Ascent set had noticeable defects, like the divot in the rim pictured here.Serious Eats / Grace KellyMost of the glasses we tested came in identical sets, with no variation between glasses: each Luminarc, Duralex, Bormioli Rocco, and Riedel looked exactly the same (save for the tall glasses in the Riedel set, which looked different from the rocks glasses on-purpose). But when we unboxed the Libbey Ascent set, which included highball and rocks glasses, we were surprised to find that many of the glasses varied in terms of production quality; many had uneven bases that sloped off to one side inside, and one glass even had a divot in the rim. When you’re buying a set of glasses that you might break out when guests are over, do you really want glasses that look shoddily made? We wouldn’t.
Glasses That Stacked Were Easy to StoreWe liked glasses that stacked easily and sturdily.Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhile many of the glasses we tested claimed to be stackable, a few really stood out: the Duralex, Bormioli Rocco, and Luminarc. The Luminarc, in particular, was a lovely stacker, with a smaller bottom section that slid easily into the wider top part of the accompanying glasses.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Drinking GlassSerious Eats / Grace KellyWhile looks depend on your personal preferences (whether you like to go flashy all the time or prefer subdued elegance), there are a few things to look for in a good drinking glass: it should have a thicker bottom, taper outward slightly, and ideally have a goldilocks thickness of between two to three millimeters. It should also be durable (because accidents happen), easy to grip, and each glass in the set should be defect-free.
What we liked: Testers loved the faceted sides and slightly blooming opening of this durable glass—which also survived a drop on concrete, a minor miracle. They said it “looks good in a diner-esque/mini milkshake way,” and is a “good daily driver glass.” It was a pleasure to use whether sipping water, seltzer, or even a spot of wine (sacré bleu!). It also was easy to stack, making for efficient storage. You can also purchase this glass set in smaller and larger sizes, if the mid-sized offering isn’t your cup of tea—er, water?
What we didn’t like: Our only minor qualm was that the facets went up high on this glass, which caused one users’ hand to slide upwards. Other than that, this is a fantastic glass.
Price at time of publish: $35 for a set of six 12.62-ounce tumblers.
Key Specs Lip thickness: 3 millimeters * Number in set: 6 * Diameter of opening: 3 3/8 inches * Height: 5 inches * Weight: 11.3 ounces * Capacity: 12.62 ounces * Materials: Tempered glass * Stackable: Yes * Cleaning and care:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: With a similar, classic cafe aesthetic, this offering was slightly cheaper (and smaller) than the Duralex. We liked its similar faceted sides, tapered base, and just-the-right-thickness rim. It also stacked well.
What we didn’t like: One user wished the facets continued higher up on the glass.
Price at time of publish: $24 for a set of 6.
Key Specs Lip thickness: 3 millimeters * Number in set: 6 * Diameter of opening: 3 1/4 inches * Height: 4 3/4 inches * Weight: 9.7 ounces * Capacity: 12.5 ounces * Materials: Tempered glass * Stackable: Yes * Cleaning and care:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: These simple glasses featured a slim profile, perfect rim thickness, and a slightly weighty base to keep ‘em steady. While they might not have the curb appeal of fancier glasses, they really were great for drinking anything—water, juice, seltzer, margaritas…the list goes on. Plus, their neutral design means you can pair them with pizza as readily as a fancy steak dinner (we do have to say, they look particularly nice filled with rose next to a platter of oysters). They also stack nicely.
What we didn’t like: Some users found the smooth exterior a little harder to grip.
Price at time of publish: $46 for a set of 12.
Key Specs Lip thickness: 2 millimeters * Number in set: 12 * Diameter of opening: 3 3/8 inches * Height: 3 1/2 inches * Weight: 6.3 ounces * Capacity: 12 ounces * Materials: Tempered glass * Stackable: Yes * Cleaning and care:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: These petite glasses featured a smaller lower-half which was easy to grip and—per our designation—made them super easy to stack. They also featured a thicker bottom, which helped them stand nice and steady. If you want an even smaller, squatter option, they are also available in a 9-ounce size (though this size it out of stock at the moment).
What we didn’t like: These are wee glasses, so if you like to gulp down huge amounts of anything, they might not be right for you—they’re better for dainty sipping. However, if you’re nostalgic for drinking out of jam jars, these glasses kinda have that vibe (minus the cute illustrations).
Price at time of publish: $26 for a set of 6.
Key Specs Lip thickness: 2 millimeters * Number in set: 6 * Diameter of opening: 2.75 inches * Height: 4 3/4 inches * Weight: 6.8 ounces * Capacity: 10.75 ounces * Materials: Glass * Stackable: Yes * Cleaning and care:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhat we liked: This set of fancy glasses comes with four rocks glasses and four highballs, all of which feature an art-deco-esque design. These are the glasses you find at good bars; they’re pricey, have a nice weight to them, and look fantastic in the glow of a candle.On a practical note, they were surprisingly durable, and every single tester who used them loved the grooved lines on the exterior, which made gripping easy.
What we didn’t like: While we found the rocks glass near-flawless (though one user thought sloshing might be an issue, since they are squat), testers weren’t quite as enamored with the highball glasses for everyday sipping. They were narrow and seemed more apt at holding a crushed ice cocktail that you sip with a straw rather than a glass of OJ swigged at breakfast. Also, this set is PRICEY.
Price at time of publish: $120 for a set of 8.
Key Specs Lip thickness: 2 millimeters * Number in set: 8 (four rocks and four highballs) * Highball diameter: 2 1/2 inches * Rocks diameter: 3 1/4 inches * Highball height: 3 1/2 inches * Rocks height: 3 1/4 inches * Highball weight: 15.4 ounces * Rocks weight: 11.3 ounces * Highball capacity: 10.9 ounces * Rocks capacity: 10 ounces * Materials: Tempered glass * Stackable: Yes (technically you can stack highball inside the rocks glass) * Cleaning and Care:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Competition* Fable Glassware Set:While these glasses were surprisingly durable considering how thin they were, their thinness was a downside in a tactile sense; users thought they were too slim and that they verged on the boring side of plain. * Libbey Polaris 8-Piece Tumbler Set: With a simple but elegant design, these glasses had a lot going for them—save for the curved bases and very tall height (6.25 inches, the tallest of the lineup), which made them feel tippy. * Libbey Ascent 16-Piece Tumbler And Rocks Glass Set: This set had potential, but its downfall was quality control: a few of the tumblers and rocks glasses had defects, including divoted rims and uneven bases. * Borosil Simple Glass Tumblers (Set of 6): Simple can be nice, but these glasses verged too close to chemistry beaker territory. The rectangular silhouette and thin glass were not popular with testers. * Ichendorf Milano Laguna Tumblers (Set of 6): Oh these glasses looked so nice, but sometimes good looks don’t guarantee a good user experience. Testers were puzzled to find that the grooved lines were actually on the inside of the glass (negating any grip they may have lent) and while the little raised edges on the rim were pretty, they were uncomfortable to sip from. * Fortessa Tableware Solutions Modo Basic Bar Glasses/Schott Zwiesel: While these glasses were elegant and had a thick base, the top was very thin (a mere one millimeter thick) and felt fragile. * Our Place Night + Day Glasses: While some users like the appearance of these glasses (and the fact that they come in a fun range of colors), others thought drinking from them was akin to trying to drink from a candle holder since the rim was four millimeters thick. However, they did stack nicely and feel sturdy.
FAQsWhat size drinking glasses should I buy?It depends on your needs and desires (an annoyingly vague answer, we know). While some people might be totally cool with rocks-sized glasses, other might want highballs to pack full of ice. The good news is that many glasses come in sets with smaller glasses and taller ones, so you can get the best of both worlds. But if a set of glasses catches your eye and they only come in one size, take a gander at the dimensions and capacity.
How many glasses are in a set?It really depends on the set, but six glasses was the most common set amount in our testing.
What is the best way to clean drinking glasses?All glasses can be hand-washed, but there’s also the option to just pile ‘em in the dishwasher. All of the glasses we tested came out of the dishwasher unscathed and glinting.
Serious Eats / Vy TranNo Vietnamese meal would be complete without a plate of greens, and often, it’s rau muống xào (sautéed morning glory) you’ll see on the table. There are many variations, but the most common is with garlic, which can stand alone as the most basic flavoring, or act as a foundational note to support other flavorings and add-ins. One of my favorite ways to add some heft to this simple dish is to toss in a little bit of beef to make rau muống xào thịt bò (sautéed morning glory with beef).
Affordable and versatile, morning glory (rau muống) is a prized vegetable both inside and outside of Vietnam. It goes by kangkong in Singapore and the Philippines, and kangkung in Malaysia. In North America, it’s commonly known as ong choy (its Cantonese name), as well as water or river spinach (despite bearing no relations to the spinach family—indeed, it is the stems of the morning glory flower that is grown as a popular ornamental plant). This vining aquatic plant with hollow stems and slender pointed leaves is cultivated widely and can grow at a rapid speed of four inches a day.
Its mild vegetal note, tender leaves, and crisp stems make it a perfect candidate for stir-frying, as it readily takes on the flavors it’s cooked with, whether it's fermented shrimp paste, sambal, or oyster sauce. Besides stir-frying, it can be boiled (its cooking liquid repurposed into a soup), slipped into a salad, or pickled. The raw stems can be shredded into fine threads to garnish noodles and hot pots. In folkloric poems, a bowl of morning glory soup evokes nostalgia and homesickness.
My version of rau muống xào thịt bò starts with making the crispy garlic sprinkles that top the dish, an innovation I learned from the Oakland-based chef Tu David Phu. Then I use the garlic-infused oil to quickly sear the beef and set it aside before continuing with the greens.
There are a couple possible ways to go about this stir-fry. Some recipes call for blanching the greens (stems and leaves) and then shocking them in an ice bath before stir-frying. This approach has the advantages of pre-wilting the morning glory for quicker stir-frying later and locking in its vibrant green color. The other is to give the thicker stems a kick-start in the hot pan, given their slightly longer cooking time, then adding the more delicate leaves.
Testing both methods side-by-side, my husband and I preferred the two-stage cooking process, which started with stir-frying the stems in half of the sauce (a mixture of soy sauce, oyster sauce, and water) until they softened slightly, followed by the leaves and the remaining sauce. Compared to the blanched batch, this yielded more flavorful greens and retained the contrasting texture of crunchy stems with tender leaves—not to mention that no additional pot or colander was needed, a definite bonus. As with other stir-fries, the key is to get all of your ingredients ready and within reach before cooking, and work quickly once cooking has started.
Normally, a vegetable stir-fry is part of a meal with multiple dishes, and its more reserved flavor profile makes it a good counterpart to more boldly flavored dishes on the table, but with the added beef and served with some steamed rice, this is substantial enough on its own.
For the Beef: In a medium bowl, whisk together oyster sauce, soy sauce, sugar, oil, and freshly ground black pepper. Add beef, tossing to coat, and let marinate for 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Vy TranFor the Stir-Fry: In a small bowl, combine oyster sauce, soy sauce, and water. Set stir-fry sauce aside.
Serious Eats / Vy TranIn a large stainless-steel skillet or wok, heat oil on medium heat until shimmering. Add garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Scrape garlic and oil into a fine-mesh strainer set over a heatproof bowl. Set garlic aside, then return 1 tablespoon (15ml) garlic oil to skillet (reserve any remaining garlic oil for another use, or discard).
Serious Eats / Vy TranReturn skillet to high heat and heat until oil is shimmering. Add beef and its marinade in a single, even layer. Let cook, undisturbed, for 30 seconds; then, using a metal spatula, stir while continuing to cook until beef turns mostly gray with a few pink spots, 30 seconds longer. Transfer beef to a medium bowl.
Serious Eats / Vy TranAdd reserved garlic oil to same skillet. Set over high heat, then add morning glory stems and half of stir-fry sauce. Cook until stems soften slightly, about 1 minute. Add morning glory leaves and remaining sauce and cook, stirring and tossing, until leaves wilt and lose half of their original volume, 2 to 3 minutes. Add beef and any accumulated juices and cook, stirring and tossing, until last traces of pink disappear and sauce coats vegetable and beef, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Vy TranTransfer sautéed morning glory and beef to a serving dish. Season with additional black pepper and soy sauce, if desired, then top with fried garlic and serve immediately with rice.
Serious Eats / Vy TranNotesMorning glory can be found in Asian grocery stores under different names: rau muống, ong choy, water spinach, kangkong. When shopping for these greens, choose bunches with perky leaves and uniformly thin stems that snap easily. Older ones have larger stems, which can be tough and fibrous.
I've made this recipe with Vietnamese and Chinese soy sauces, and both work—the quantity used is small enough not to make a huge difference on the finished dish regardless of origin.
You can omit the beef entirely and make this a meatless dish.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreIs a stand mixer always better than a hand mixer? At the risk of sounding too internet-y: the answer may surprise you. Stand mixers are an aspirational purchase for many home cooks. With prices that start in the $300s and climb up to the $700s, these countertop appliances are an investment. It makes sense that many cooks end up buying less expensive hand mixers (sometimes called handheld mixers, handheld beaters, or electric beaters) instead. In fact, our top-rated hand mixer is hundreds less than the least expensive KitchenAid stand mixer.
Of course, more than price should be considered when making a big kitchen appliance purchase. You should also look at its versatility, the amount of storage space available in your kitchen, and how (and how often) you plan on using it. Although we pretty much always recommend stand mixers over hand mixers for their sheer versatility, they may not be the right choice for every cook.
Hand Mixers: The Pros Hand mixers are designed to be motored around a mixing bowl by hand (no surprise there). Because they must be small and light by design, you won’t have trouble finding a spot to tuck them away when not in use. In contrast, stand mixers are so big and heavy, many cooks opt to keep them on the counter rather than finding dedicated storage space. The Breville Handy Mix Scraper Hand Mixer is a petite four pounds. Our runner-up, made by KitchenAid (yep, that KitchenAid) is just half that.
Unlike stand mixers, you can use hand mixers in almost any mixing bowl; rubber guards on the beaters will keep bowl materials (like ceramic) from becoming scratched or nicked. Hand mixers are also easy to maneuver around. You can tilt and adjust the angle of the beaters to scrape at the side of the bowl as you go. In contrast, with a stand mixer, you’ll need to turn off the motor, lift the attachment, and use a spatula to push things down the bowl's sides periodically when mixing.
Serious Eats / Donna CurieOf course, there are a few bells and whistles we really like about hand mixers: the best of the best are impressively quiet, with decibel ratings in the 70s. We also like models with built-in timers, so you can see how much time has elapsed while mixing. That’s not a feature even the snazziest stand mixers have.
Newer models of hand mixers do boast more versatility than those of yesteryear, although we remain skeptical of how much better than hand-kneading dough the hook-style attachments are.
Stand Mixers: The ProsTo borrow (and slightly alter) a line from musical theater canon: “Anything a hand mixer can do, a stand mixer can do better.” Just like hand mixers, stand mixers can whisk and beat egg whites, heavy cream, and cookie dough. But they’re much more powerful. Our favorite stand mixer, the KitchenAid 6-Quart Professional 600 Series, has a 575-watt motor, and that’s not even the highest powered model in KitchenAid’s fleet. The Breville Handy Mix, our top hand mixer, peaks at just 240 watts. More wattage generally means a more powerful appliance.
Of course, a stand mixer already offers your arms a rest: whatever model you choose, its attachments work independently of the cook. But like self-driving cars, these appliances aren’t fully independent. Some stand mixers “walk” across the counter at higher speeds, and should be monitored when in use.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThe versatility a stand mixer offers is often what seals the deal for cooks on the fence. Most models come standard with a whisk, paddle, and dough hook attachment. With those three tools alone, you could knead bread dough, whip up a batch of cookies, and make an American buttercream frosting. Once you’ve gotten comfortable with the machine, you may choose to invest in additional attachments: pasta makers and meat grinders are two popular options that up the ante for from-scratch kitchen enthusiasts.
The visual appeal is hard to ignore, too. Although there are certainly other brands of stand mixers, the presence of a colorful KitchenAid on the counter is eye-appealing. And of colors, there are plenty: depending on the model you choose, KitchenAid offers dozens of hues, including limited release options (in 2023 it’s a deep pinky-red Hibiscus).
Hand Mixer vs. Stand Mixer: What Can You Use Each For?Serious Eats / Donna CurrieBrass tacks: when can—and can’t—you use each appliance? In general, stand mixers can do more than hand mixers, thanks to their larger and more versatile attachments, and higher wattage.
Hand Mixer: Yes* Whip cream * Whip egg whites * Cream butter and sugar * Make buttercream frosting * Can be used in almost any mixing bowl
Hand Mixer: No* Knead bread dough (unless a specific attachment is used, but we’re still doubtful) * Make pasta dough * Grind meat
Stand Mixer: Yes* Whip cream * Whip egg whites * Cream butter and sugar * Make buttercream frosting * Knead bread dough * Make pasta dough * Grind meat
Stand Mixer: No* Not highly portable * Some model may struggle with small ingredients
Which Is Better: Stand Mixers or Hand Mixers?Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIf you have the space and budget, we recommend buying a stand mixer. They are a true investment purchase that will last you years to come. If the price is a limiting factor for you, you may consider buying a refurbished model (purchasing directly from KitchenAid ensures working quality). However, Iif you plan on using your electric mixer for just the basics—whipped cream and egg whites, with the occasional batch of cookies tossed in—a hand mixer will do the job.
FAQsWhat is an electric mixer?Both stand and hand mixers are categorized as electric mixers. That means they’re powered with a small motor that runs on electricity. At its most basic, an electric mixer—sometimes called an electric beater—is a souped up version of a handheld whisk. Electric mixers, whether they’re handheld or standalone, are fitted with whisk-like attachments that can whip, mix, and cream ingredients for recipes like whipped cream, sugar cookies, and meringue. Both stand mixers and hand mixers come with a variety of different attachments, although stand mixers are more versatile, can accommodate larger batches of food, and offer more uses.
What’s the best stand mixer?Our favorite brand of stand mixer is KitchenAid. KitchenAid stand mixers come in three different models: the Professional, Artisan, and Classic series. There’s plenty to appreciate about each style, but we overwhelmingly prefer the Professional Series. The best stand mixer according to our tests is the KitchenAid 6-Quart Professional 600 Series Stand Mixer. It’s stationary and doesn’t walk when kneading dough. We especially like the design of the mixing bowl, which doesn’t have a foot (this means it can be used over a flame, or double-boiler, as required for some recipes). The wide design of the bowl makes it a cinch to scrape down when working.
What’s the best hand mixer?The best hand mixer is the Breville Handy Mix Scraper Hand Mixer. It comes with three sets of attachments, is fitted with a focus light, and has nine speeds for precision mixing. We also liked the KitchenAid 9-Speed Digital Hand Mixer, which is quieter and lighter (if a little less powerful). When shopping for a hand mixer, look for models with a high range of speed options and that are quiet. Comfortable, ergonomic designs are also key, as you may be holding it for minutes at a time.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinProduct reviews are incredible for detailed insights, but there’s just something about a good personal recommendation. This list is the best of both worlds, rounding up our staff’s favorite gear from our equipment reviews.
If you have any questions about a featured item, we've also included links to the full reviews. There, you can read about how we tested and why we selected our winners over the competition.
I was lucky to get my hands on a Thermapen ONE in 2021 when it was first released (and subsequently replaced the Mk4). I have used it very frequently ever since and felt validated when it won our instant-read thermometer review. It's lightning fast and pretty close to its stated ONE second (get it?) response time. It also has an auto-rotating screen and auto-backlight and can be recalibrated (not as common for thermometers as you might think). If you're still unconvinced why you need an instant-read thermometer, this might help. — Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, senior commerce editor
I got my hands on this pan pretty quickly after Daniel recommended it, and it's probably one of my favorite pieces of gear in my kitchen. Despite its low price tag, it feels quite expensive, and excels at the task Daniel recommends it for: finishing pasta. It has a width and depth that make it perfect for holding your pasta, your sauce, and some starchy pasta water when tossing and stirring to finish. Thanks to the aluminum, the pan is also an excellent conductor of heat, making it great for stir-frying (which is what it was technically designed for) as well. — Yasmine Maggio, associate editor
Serious Eats / Daniel GritzerAs a petite-framed person with near child-sized hands, sometimes an 8-inch chef's knife just feels too big. Which is why I love (and pretty much solely use) this petite petty knife from Tojiro for slicing and dicing. It's not only the perfect size for my tiny hands, but it's also incredibly sharp and nimble, making it adept at boning tricky cuts like chicken thighs as well as coring peppers. And it's still worth buying even if you don't have small digits, since it's so dang sharp. — Grace Kelly, associate commerce editor
There's something truly magical about countertop-sized outdoor pizza ovens and, based on how often my friends ask me to make pizza for them, I'm not the only one who feels this way. The pizzas I've made in my Karu 16 have been truly fantastic, and because of the oven's ability to reach incredibly high temps, I'm able to crank out beautiful pies in mere minutes. The Karu 16 is also one of Ooni's more feature-laden models and lets you cook using either gas, wood, or charcoal, has a built-in thermometer that measures air temperature, and comes with a glass door and a chimney to help you control temperature and airflow. — Jacob Dean, updates editor
Serious Eats / Stacy K. AllenThe Baratza Virtuoso+ has been our top recommended grinder for a long time, but also, I’ve personally used the Virutoso+ (and its predecessor, the Virtuoso) as my daily home grinder for more than 13 years. Baratza revolutionized home grinding by prioritizing grinding burr design, ensuring that home coffee fanatics could get precision grind consistency at home that matched expensive commercial grinders. Not only that, but every Baratza grinder is designed to be repairable. I’ve personally rescued over six Virtuosos from near death with a handful of $10 parts you can order on their website. It’s one of the best investments out of any gear we’ve ever tested, and your tastebuds will thank you for the upgrade as well. — Jesse Raub, commerce writer
When I reviewed air fryers, I became rather enamored with our winner from Instant Pot. Many months later, that love is still going strong. It crisps food exceptionally well and quicker than any other air fryer I tried and has loads of helpful usability features, like a touchscreen and dial for easily toggling the time and temperature. I use mine all the time: for air-frying tofu, Brussels sprouts, frozen foods, fries, and more. It's easy to clean, too (with a dishwasher-safe basket). — Riddley
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperelin-SchirmI've reviewed a lot of gear over the years, so picking a favorite is difficult. But the Tojiro serrated bread knife stands out in my mind, offering the rare combination of absolutely exceptional performance at a totally reasonable price. I remember the Tojiro beating the pants off knives several times more expensive, and I can say that my own continues to perform well even after many years of use. It's not a hefty knife, yet it manages to be just as good at delicate work like slicing a tomato paper thin and trimming tender cake layers as it is whizzing through a thick and crusty loaf of sourdough. As far as I'm concerned, it is the only serrated knife I'll ever need. — Daniel Gritzer, senior culinary director
If you don't have a good kitchen scale, you're missing out: on accurately weighing ingredients and avoiding any baking mishaps, on perfectly portioned meatballs, on actually getting the correct ratio of coffee to water for your auto-drip machine, and on so much more. And the best kitchen scale is our favorite from OXO. It's incredibly accurate, features a pull-out display (helpful for reading when a large mixing bowl's atop it), and easily switches between ounces, pounds, grams, and kilograms. — Riddley
This Vitamix blender has been a longtime Serious Eats recommendation for good reason: it works incredibly well and couldn't be easier to use. I love its tapered blending jar (most blenders have wide jars), which effectively pulls ingredients down and creates a vortex. It blends! It purees! It pulverizes! It does it all perfectly! Plus, it just has a speed dial and a couple of switches. It's no frills, all power. — Riddley
Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesSwedish dishcloths are a bit of a sleeper hit. While they're often emblazoned with cute designs, (and aren't very expensive) if you've never used one before it's easy to pass them over. But take one home and get it wet and (much like with a Mogwai) you're in for a huge surprise. The thin, odd, almost cardboard-y sheets of fabric transform into durable, washable, ecologically-responsible replacements for paper towels that are perfect for a great many cleaning tasks all across your home. I've loved them since the first time I saw them while traveling for work in Sweden, and I think you will too. — Jacob
We’re big fans of a variety of cast iron bread pans, but the Challenger Bread Pan is truly the best-designed and easiest to use. It features thick cast iron walls that retain heat well and a tight-sealing lid that traps steam, allowing your sourdough to perfectly rise. The offset handles on the top of the lid make it easy to remove for the second half of your bake, and the overall shape is perfect for accommodating small boules, batards, and even two demi-baguettes side-by-side. I personally own an array of these bread pans that I’ve collected over the years, and the Challenger Bread Pan takes the cake. If the price point is a little steep and you’re just starting out in sourdough, the Lodge Double Dutch is also a great, more affordable option. — Jesse
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianA really good bench scraper is one of those things you'll use all of the time: for cleaning off your cutting board, transferring prepped ingredients, portioning gnocchi, cutting biscuits, etc, etc, etc. And the OXO Bench Scraper is just really perfect: it has a grippy, silicone handle, a large blade, and plentiful measurements near the bottom edge. Plus, it's just $12. — Riddley
Vegetable peelers are nearly impossible to sharpen, so I’m extremely grateful that we finally ditched our dull old standby for two new Kuhn Rikon peelers. They’re sharp as all get out, have a really comfortable handle, and, best of all, they’re cheap! I love using them for cocktail garnishes and prepping sweet potatoes, and their smaller size makes them great for peeling ginger, too—something our old peeler couldn’t manage. — Jesse
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikOkay—at nine inches, this whisk isn’t technically “mini,” even though it was included in our mini whisk round-up. At the same time, I can palm a basketball, and truly tiny whisks were hard for me to handle. With its narrow French whisk loops, this whisk works great for precision whipping but is long enough to handle most medium-sized jobs as well. I’ve owned one for over ten years (now I have two of them), and really love how it’s the only sized whisk I need. However, if you’re looking for something truly mini, the Tovolo mini whisk has wide loops that make it great for beating just one egg or two. — Jesse
My husband bought me a WokMon for my birthday last year and, no kidding, it's changed my life. This little gadget redirects the flow of gas and creates a powerful flame that evenly heats up your wok, making it possible to achieve wok hei at home. — Genevieve Yam, culinary editor
A Dutch oven is an essential piece of cookware that you'll have pretty much forever (at least by cookware standards). It's an incredibly versatile pot: capable of boiling, braising, searing, simmering, deep-frying, and baking. And this Dutch oven from Le Creuset is one of our top recommendations (we tested 20 of 'em). I love its wide, looped handles and light interior that allows me to easily monitor fond development. I have 5 1/2-quart and 7 1/4-quart pots and use them both, but recommend the former for most home cooks. — Riddley
The one piece of equipment I’ll always keep on my counter is a Breville Smart Oven (our recommended toaster oven). I’ve had one in near-daily use since 2009, and use it for everything: reheating pizza, roasting potatoes, making croutons, baking cookies, frozen pizzas, toasting bread—you name it. It’s quick to heat up, more accurate than my large gas oven, and the convection fan makes it a decent stand-in for an air fryer (though we still think air fryers do a better job at those tasks). When it gets hot in the summer, its heat output is minimal and we switch to the Breville Smart Oven full time to avoid turning our kitchen into a sweatbox. If you want to splurge a bit, there are also newer models with more features. — Jesse
Serious Eats / Will DickeyFAQsWhat should I look for when buying kitchen equipment?If you’re looking to stock up your kitchen gear, the important things to look for are performance, usability, and how easy each item is to clean. And while it’s easy to recommend looking out for trusted brands, it’s better to find thoroughly tested reviews for each individual product, like in our equipment section. We test all of our recommended products to make sure they truly deliver, and detail our findings so you can see exactly why we chose our top picks.
What is the most useful kitchen equipment? The most useful kitchen equipment does its intended job well, whether it’s cookware, knives, or electric appliances. We thoroughly test every product we review, so we can make sure no matter what you’re looking for, we have a solid recommendation.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoNatto is everywhere in Japan. Styrofoam packages of fermented soybeans line the refrigerated shelves of supermarkets and convenience stores. There’s natto made with large, small, or organic beans, and there’s hikiwari, or chopped up natto. Often, you’ll find natto with tare or other seasonings included in the package. Though natto is pretty simple to make, very few people do it. Like yogurt, most people are happy to grab a package of their favorite brand at the store.
As with many foods that are fermented and slightly funky, natto can be a challenge to the uninitiated. My enthusiasm for eating and making it has spooked even the most adventurous eaters among my friends. I get it: it's brown, its subtle coffee aroma is unexpected, and when you mix it with a pair of chopsticks the beans produce long, sticky, mucilaginous strands. It's a lot! But once you acquire a taste for it, there are few things that are as delicious.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoIf you want to try natto, it's widely available for purchase in Japanese specialty supermarkets and locations of H Mart. You may be wondering: if it's accessible here, too, why bother making my own? Many people, including Ann Yonetani of NYrture New York Natto, claim that freezing natto—as is common with the mass-market products—decreases many of its purported health benefits. My mother believes this, too, and it's what got her started with making natto at home.
The main reason why you should give making natto a try is that homemade natto is tastier and, well, funkier than the stuff you can buy in the package. Making your own natto also allows for nearly endless customization. For example, using black soybeans yields a milder and more toothsome natto than smaller brown soybeans.
One note before you begin: Natto is distinct from other fermentations in that it is not as inhospitable to bad bacteria. Yonetani’s husband Zach Perlman, who co-runs the company, explains that while the low pH of foods like sauerkraut impede the growth of bad bacteria, natto is inherently high in pH, which some pathogens can tolerate. There were isolated incidents of reported food poisoning via homemade natto in the early 20th century, but using a commercial bacteria and keeping your equipment clean means that the risk of food poisoning in your kitchen is virtually nonexistent, provided you follow some basic steps.
Natto-Making FundamentalsNatto consists of boiled soybeans that have been inoculated with a bacterium called B. subtilis (which is sold and known colloquially as nattokin, or natto bacteria), and then allowed to ferment. The sticky and gooey strands characteristic of natto are actually a bacterial biofilm that the probiotic cultures secrete.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoThe fundamentals of natto are very similar to that of yogurt, but instead of heating milk, you cook the beans to provide a hospitable environment for the bacteria starter. Once you add the starter, you put the beans somewhere warm so the bacteria can propagate and transform cooked soybeans into natto. Here are a few guidelines to follow to ensure success:
- Soaking the beans is essential. Aim for 12 hours if you can swing it. This helps them fully and evenly hydrate, allowing for faster and more even cooking.
- The bacteria must be added while the beans are hot (as in, still fresh off the stove), as B. subtilis is heat-activated. Keeping the beans in a warm place then encourages the bacteria to reproduce and kickstart the fermentation process.
- All utensils and containers should be as sterile as possible (via boiling water) to reduce the chances of contamination by unwanted microorganisms.
- The containers for the fermentation must be relatively shallow. This allows for better distribution of heat, more surface area exposed to the air, and a more even fermentation. This particular fermentation requires oxygen (but only a small amount, which explains the tight lids called for in natto fermentation) and a deeper vessel brings with it the risk that the oxygen will not be evenly distributed. The beans are done after 20 to 24 hours; you should be able to see a light, white film coating the beans. If you see beans that don’t turn at all white, or don’t emit any scent at the end of 20 to 24 hours under a blanket, it’s likely you didn’t add enough starter, or that the setup was not warm enough.
- After the warm fermentation, you must chill the natto for 12 more hours before it is ready to eat. During this time, the flavor will continue to develop and the bacteria will continue to break down the proteins.
Choosing Soybeans for NattoAs stated above, the beauty of fermenting your own beans is that you can decide what kind to use. If you prefer a larger soybean, go with that. Black soybeans? Same story. All of the beans will ferment similarly, so long as they are thoroughly boiled. The black soybeans and the larger soybeans yield a milder natto which might be more palatable for beginners. The key is to keep an eye on them while they cook, as different bean varieties will have different cooking times.
Some sources for quality beans include Shiloh black soy beans, Hunza organic soybeans, and Signature Soy Non-GMO Soybeans for Natto (these soybeans are small, as is classic of packaged natto).
Required EquipmentYou’ll need some sturdy, non-reactive, flat, rectangular vessels (like glass baking dishes) and somewhere warm to incubate your beans. Some cooks put the beans in an oven with its light switched on (also a common trick for incubating yogurt), but Michiko swears by an electric mat that she covers with a blanket. Experiment with what works. The key is to keep the natto at somewhere around 100°F (38°C) for 24 hours.
What to Look For When Making NattoA visual cue for successful fermentation is the presence of white strands coating the beans. However, if you incubate the inoculated beans at temperatures warmer than 100°F, it’s possible that the strands won't form by the end of the 24 hour cycle. If that's the case, you have to open the container and take a whiff. If it reminds you of some very funky cheese, you’re in the clear. Move the containers to the refrigerator and let them ferment for an additional 12 hours. If not, you'll have to throw them away and start over. (You could eat them, but they'll just be bland, cooked soybeans that have been sitting out longer than is advisable.)
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoHow to Enjoy NattoThe classic way to serve natto is mixed with tare and served over rice, which is why every package of natto sold in Japan is accompanied by its own mini packets of tare and karashi mustard. Tare is usually salty from soy and also a little sweet, so a 1:1 mix of mirin and soy is a good alternative if you can’t find tare. Other tares add things like a tangy umeboshi flavor, so you can also chop up some umeboshi and add it to yours. However, natto is delicious in so many other applications. If you have some mentsuyu (a Japanese soup base) knocking around in your fridge, this is a good place to use it as well. Other ideas include:
- Salad: Mix the natto with diced tomatoes and cucumbers. Add salt and pieces of shiso leaf if you have it. This is so refreshing and can temper the funkiness for those new to natto.
- Over soba: This is a classic presentation that showcases the Japanese love for things that are neba-neba (stretchy and gooey). Pour some natto over a bowl of cooked, rinsed soba, some slices of blanched okra, and some grated yamaimo if you have it. Shower your bowl with shiso and a splash of mentsuyu.
- With kimchi: My mother's favorite, this double punch of fermentation pairs the salty-sour tang of kimchi with natto’s earthy alkalinity.
- Over pasta: Yes, this is a Japanese classic. Toss hot spaghetti with some natto, olive oil (or sesame oil for a different flavor profile), soy sauce, and a little bit of pasta water. Serve it with nori and shiso.
Place dry beans into a large pot. Cover the beans with water and soak for at least 8 and up to 12 hours.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoIf Cooking On the Stovetop: Rinse soaked beans thoroughly, then return to pot. Cover beans with at least 1 inch of fresh water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to maintain a steady simmer and cook until beans are completely tender but still whole, about 4 hours (see notes). Meanwhile, pour boiling water into a large, heatproof mixing bowl, making sure boiling water touches most of the inner surface to sanitize it, then drain. Drain beans and transfer to the large mixing bowl. Discard the cooking liquid.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoIf Using a Pressure Cooker: Rinse soaked beans thoroughly in 3 changes of fresh water. Cover beans with at least 1 inch of fresh water. Seal the pressure cooker lid. Bring to high pressure and cook for 10 minutes. Allow pressure to release naturally. The beans should be completely tender but still whole (see notes). Meanwhile, pour boiling water into a large, heatproof mixing bowl, making sure boiling water touches most of the inner surface to sanitize it, then drain. Drain beans and transfer to the large mixing bowl. Discard the cooking liquid.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoMeanwhile, boil a stainless steel teaspoon, a stainless steel soup spoon, and a small metal bowl in water for 5 minutes; transfer sterilized utensils to a clean work surface. Pour boiling water into the containers you will use to ferment the soybeans, then drain. In the sterilized small bowl and using the sterilized teaspoon, mix the natto starter spores with 1 tablespoon of water and immediately add to the hot soybeans (the soybeans must be hot, as this bacteria is activated by the heat). Using the sterilized soup spoon, mix soybeans very thoroughly to ensure the starter is evenly distributed throughout.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoDivide beans into the sanitized wide airtight containers (each container of beans should have a layer of beans no more than 2cm deep). Cover with cheesecloth and seal with the lid.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSet the containers in a warm place; you can use a yogurt maker, a proofing drawer, or a turned-off oven with the oven light on; the important thing is that your beans are in an environment of about 100ºF (38ºC). Let stand, rotating the container positions after about 12 hours and checking every hour starting around the 20th hour, until the beans are covered all over in a thin white film and smell cheesy and nutty, 20 to 24 hours; see notes for more on what to do if your soybeans don't look and smell like this.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoTransfer containers to the fridge and allow beans to continue to ferment for 12 hours. The natto is now ready to eat.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSpecial EquipmentWide, airtight, nonreactive containers (such as glass baking dishes)
NotesIf you prefer beans with a little more chew, this recipe will work if you boil them a little less. This is your natto, make it as you like!
Natto can ferment unevenly, especially if the starter wasn't mixed in thoroughly, or the fermentation temperature was uneven. If you still see white film on most but not all of the natto, you can give it a good stir, then continue with the recipe by transferring natto to the fridge to finish.
If your beans fail to turn white, and don’t emit any scent at the end of 20-24 hours, it’s likely you did not add enough starter, or that the setup was not warm enough. I recommend starting over from scratch.
If you over-ferment the beans, they will become stiff and hard to mix (albeit, still edible).
Make-Ahead and StorageNatto will keep for 2-3 weeks in the fridge, but will get more pungent with time. I once rediscovered a jar of Michiko’s natto that had been sitting in the fridge for over a month and it almost knocked me off of my feet.
Serious Eats / Julia StimeckWhen I was working at a large production bakery, there was one bench scraper that was treasured above all other tools in the kitchen. Known only as the “good bench scraper,” it had a shift schedule as rigorous as any employee: it spent the early hours of the morning dividing English muffins, then it got passed off to the prep baker who used it to cube pound after pound of butter for scones and biscuits. Then, the croissant baker held onto it for a few hours, neatly trimming their batons into perfectly laminated rectangles. Next, it returned to the bread bakers, who spent hours with it, dividing huge masses of dough into loaves, baguettes, rolls, and bagels; it also scraped the wooden table clean between each variety. Then back over to prep, where it neatly chopped perfectly triangular scones, and finally over to the bread baker, who would use it to gently lift partially-proofed portions of baguette dough off of wooden boards to be shaped. Despite having at least eight other scrapers at our disposal, the entire team always knew about the whereabouts of this one.
The “good bench scraper,” it turns out, is officially known as the Mundial W5697 Dough Cutter/Scraper. Despite its vaulted status in the bakery, no one knew where our favorite scraper came from or even who made it until it fell into the mixer and perished. The blade survived the tragic accident (please share a moment of silence for the bread dough we lost alongside the shards of handle), and it was then we finally noticed that our favorite tool had a brand name: Mundial. The bakery immediately ordered several, and the daily bench scraper journey/power struggle came to an end. I eventually moved on from that bakery and bought one for myself. I’ve also given them as gifts to fellow bakers and even included one in a still-life drawing I made for an art class.
So why did this one tool get such preference? What made it the best? Why did I draw it as part of a still life? I’ll tell you why.
The Mundial Bench Scraper is SharpSerious Eats / Julia StimeckBench scrapers are simple tools, so achieving excellence in just two key areas led the Mundial to be a universal favorite. The most important quality this scraper has going for it is its sharp, slender blade. Mind you, it’s not sharp enough to injure you (nor will it require maintenance from a whetstone), but sharp enough to glide easily through cold blocks of butter or sticky piles of sourdough. In production baking, a recipe may require division into dozens or hundreds of pieces (and it’s just one of many recipes you’re making in a day), so making that task a little easier can lighten your load considerably. The blade is also much sturdier than a knife’s, allowing you to chop up dough right on your scale’s metal top or scrape along your work surface—activities that you would (hopefully) never think to do with your freshly-sharpened santoku.
The two tasks that I think having a sharp bench scraper is most essential for are:
- Dividing dough with multiple textures - if you want to glide through sticky scone dough without getting your blade caught on tough dried fruit, you will be very thankful for this tool.
- Lifting delicate doughs - if you bake delicate, wet doughs such as sourdoughs and baguettes, you know the pain of getting them stuck to the bench and watching them deflate as you work to get them off. The sharp blade and nimble handle of the Mundial can deftly dislodge your dough from your work surface.
The Handle’s Unique Shape Makes it Easy to ManeuverSerious Eats / Julia StimeckThe handle shape is the other thing that this scraper gets right. Our winner for best bench scraper, from OXO, has a similarly sharp blade, but a bulkier (IMO) handle. The Mundial’s handle dips slightly at the top, centering your hand on the blade without excess material in the way. The thinner profile of the Mundial’s handle is advantageous when sliding it under larger masses of dough and also when using it to chop or divide taller items; the handle doesn’t encroach on the height of the blade.
The TakeawaySerious Eats / Julia StimeckWhile a bench scraper might not get all the attention that other kitchen gadgets and tools do (hello, chef’s knife), it’s a truly useful tool that can scrape, cut and maneuver ingredients. It’s sharp but not nearly as dangerous or delicate as the blade of a knife, and great for moving material while being much more precise than other scraping tools such as spatulas and bowl scrapers. The Mundial bench scraper excels in each of these areas, and will always be the one I reach for.
FAQsWhat is a bench scraper good for?A bench scraper is well-suited to many kitchen tasks that involve cutting/chopping/dividing, lifting, and moving— the more of these you’re doing at once, the more you’ll love your bench scraper. For example, when you’re making biscuits, you’ll use your scraper to cube the cold butter, fold and scrape the dough onto itself, shape biscuit dough into squares, and transfer the biscuits onto a pan. If you bake infrequently, you could use a combination of other tools to complete these tasks, but once you get comfortable with a bench scraper in your hand, you’ll never want to bake without one. It’s also great for moving chopped vegetables to a bowl or pan and cleaning debris off a cutting board or counter between tasks.
What’s the difference between a bench scraper and a bowl scraper?A bench scraper features a metal blade with a plastic or wooden handle. It is stiff and sharp enough to cut through dough or scrape debris off of a countertop. Because of their rectangular shape, bench scrapers are most useful on flat surfaces. Conversely, a bowl scraper is a flexible piece of plastic with a curved edge that is useful for removing materials from bowls and scraping them clean. Because of their flexibility, bowl scrapers can conform to fit many shapes of round containers. Both bench scrapers and bowl scrapers fit comfortably in your hand, and can be useful for expanding the surface area of your hand when lifting and transferring different materials.
What are other names for bench scrapers?Bench knives, dough knives, dough scrapers, and dough cutters all refer to the same item. “Bench knife” is the other name that I’ve heard the most in my cooking and baking career.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmPotato peeler, steak knife, citrus juicer—some tools have such literal names that there’s no question as to their intended purpose. Cake testers are a great example. You pick up the pointy thing, stick it in a just-baked cake, pull it out, and check if it’s gooey or not. Simple!
But why not just use a toothpick instead of buying yet another tool? You definitely can, though not all baking experts agree that cake testers and toothpicks are equally up to the task.
“A toothpick has texture to it—a lot more than a skinny piece of steel—which can pick up crumbs on its way through a cake,” says chef and food scientist, Tiffany Swan. “To the untrained eye, these crumbs can make it look like the tester isn’t clean, and leaving the cake in the oven until the toothpick is completely clean will create an overbaked cake.”
You can also argue that the stainless steel probe of a proper cake tester is more durable than a toothpick, thus eliminating both the risk of wood splinters in your food and the wastefulness of tossing out toothpicks after using them for testing. Cake testers are also more all-purpose than you might think. Kenji wrote about their versatility years ago, and like any good classic, cake testers just don’t go out of style.
What’s a Cake Tester?Put simply, a cake tester is a thin metal skewer with a simple grip on the end. Cake testers are meant for subtle poking—usually into cakes, as the name suggests. The diminutive diameter of a cake tester leaves a barely noticeable hole (far more discreet than, say, using the tip of a knife) and the idea is that, toward the end of the baking time, a tester inserted into the center of a cake should come out nearly as clean as it went in. If it’s covered in batter, you know the cake hasn’t finished baking. But as Swan noted, the idea of what constitutes a “clean” tester is subjective.
A few moist crumbs clinging to your cake tester (or your toothpick) is really quite fine. The cake will continue to gently bake itself with residual heat after you’ve removed it from the oven anyway—if you wait until your tester is bone-dry, you may be asking for an equally arid cake. A cake tester isn’t a foolproof method of assessing doneness, but it’ll give you a pretty good idea.
What Else Can You Use a Cake Tester For?Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmThe cool thing about cake testers is that—aside from being inexpensive and taking up minimal space in your utensil drawer—they can be used for lots more than just testing cakes.
Cake testers can be especially helpful when working with delicate seafood, according to chef and dietitian Melanie Marcus MA, RD.
“My cake tester is my go-to tool when cooking scallops,” says Marcus. “They’re just one of those proteins that you don’t want to consume ‘under,’ because they’ll be slimy and unpleasant—but they’re just as easy to overcook.”
Marcus says that she inserts her cake tester into the scallop for about five seconds, then she does a wrist check. If the tester feels warm, she knows the scallop is ready. If it’s cold, she gives it another 30 to 60 seconds before retesting.
“I use the same method when cooking steak,” Marcus adds. “If it’s cold, your steak is rare. If it feels warm, your steak will be medium-rare, and if the tester is very hot, your steak will be well-done." (Editor's note: of course, we prefer an instant-read thermometer for this task, as we're all about accuracy.)
You can also use a cake tester to check vegetables (like boiled potatoes or roasted butternut squash). "Basically doneness of a lot of vegetables," senior culinary director Daniel Gritzer says of a cake tester's uses. "Anywhere a recipe might say to test doneness with a paring knife, a cake tester is arguably better since there's no blade edge/point that can cut and make something seem more tender than it is. This could include blanched vegetables, winter squash, broccoli, tubers, and root vegetables, etc." Our updates editor Jacob Dean agrees: he often uses a cake tester to test the doneness of potatoes. "It's a trick I picked up in Sweden," he says. "[It] works better than a knife, gives a much more specific tactile response for determining the texture."
Swan even uses her cake tester to apply labels on everything from dry goods to herb seedlings in her garden, by “placing a label over the plastic grip.” Clever! And Daniel has another unexpected use: "I use mine to clean the very thin space between my counter and [oven] range of any crumbs that have gotten stuck."
What cake tester should you buy?Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWe recommend the Ateco 1445 cake tester for its slim profile, durability, and inexpensive price. You can even get a set of three for less than $10.
FAQsShould you use a cake tester to test the doneness of cake?You can! Cake testers are helpful for determining whether the center of your cake is properly set or not. It’s okay to use a toothpick instead—just be mindful that the wood’s natural texture may pick up a few extra crumbs and this doesn’t mean that the cake is underbaked.
What’s the best cake tester?We prefer the Ateco 1445 cake tester. It's expensive and has a grippy, ridged plastic handle that makes it easy to hold onto.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmIt’s a universal truth that dinnerware sets are, for the most part, expensive as heck. They go in the class of things I don’t think should cost as much as they do—along with bath towels, bed sheets, and outdoor furniture.
But the right dinnerware can elevate any table. Sets come in an endless range of styles—from classic, all-white plates to ones fit for a bistro to ceramics meant to look hand-thrown. Ultimately: no matter the set—and price—dinnerware has to be functional, durable, and (hopefully) eye-appealing.
This brings me to a point that, as an equipment reviewer who likes to have clearly defined “winners” and “losers,” surprised me. That is: after testing 17 sets priced from $42 to $589 ($2.25 to $33.50 on average per piece), the grand majority of the dinnerware was totally fine.
There were a couple of sets that our testing panel agreed were eh and some objective factors worth considering (i.e. some of the sets were more prone to scratching). However, you could make a case that most sets could be right for a certain type of consumer/price point/general vibe.
Ultimately, we landed on 13 winners we thought could be suitable for both everyday use and fancier occasions. However, check out our The Competition section for more options if you don’t find something you like, because, again, most of the sets were good.
The Winners, at a Glance A Crowd-Pleasing Dinnerware Set You Can’t Go Wrong With: Open Kitchen by Williams Sonoma 16-Piece Dinnerware Set * The Best Dinnerware Set If You Want It All: Made In The Tabletop Set * A Serious Eats Editor-Favorite Dinnerware Set: Dansk Cafe Blanc Stripe Porcelain Dinnerware * A Dinnerware Set Fit for a Bistro: Williams Sonoma Brasserie Porcelain 16-Piece Dinnerware Set * A Fun, Modern-Looking Dinnerware Set: Hawkins New York Essential Stoneware Dinnerware * A Very Durable Dinnerware Set: Le Creuset San Francisco Coupe 16-Piece Dinnerware Set * A Slightly Asymmetrical, Beautiful Dinnerware Set: Fable Base Dinnerware Set * A Super Budget-Friendly Dinnerware Set: AmazonBasics 16-Piece Porcelain Dinnerware Set * A Colorful, Eye-Catching Dinnerware Set: Luminarc Arty French Glass Dinnerware, 12-Piece Set * A Luxe-Feeling, Beautifully Designed Dinnerware Set: Villeroy & Boch Artesano 4-Piece Place Setting * A Dinnerware Set from a Heritage Brand: Staub Ceramic Dinnerware Set * A Dinnerware Set if You Want a Hand-Thrown Feel: Material The Place Setting * A Nostalgic Dinnerware Set:* Fiesta 4-Piece Place Setting
The TestsSerious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm Initial Unboxing Test: Upon unboxing the dinnerware, we evaluated each piece for any glaze imperfections, scratches, or other damage. We also weighed each piece. * Aesthetics and Feel Test: We had four users evaluate each set, weighing in on its aesthetics, design, feel, and anything else of note. * Mug Test: We drank hot coffee from each set’s mug (if it had one), evaluating how comfortable the mug was to hold and drink from. * Durability Test: We took the salad plate from each set and scratched its surface five times with a dinner knife, checking for any damage. We then did this with a steak knife. After inspecting the salad plate, we repeated this scratching-and-checking with the dinner plate from each set. * Staining Test: We smeared a mixture of turmeric and oil on each dinner plate and left it for three hours (as if you had a dinner party) and didn’t clean up for a prolonged period of time. We then washed each plate, checking for any leftover stains, oil marks, or odors. * Microwave Test: We put the bowl from each set in the fridge for 30 minutes, filled it with room temperature water, then placed it in the microwave for one-and-a-half minutes, to see if temperature changes would affect the dinnerware, how hot the bowls got in the microwave, and if the dinnerware was truly microwave-safe. * Dishwasher Test: We ran one place setting from each set through the dishwasher, placing them in the dishwasher as non-gently as possible (like you were quickly loading it after dinner). We ran the dishwasher, then unloaded the dishes and checked for any damage. * Steak Test (Winners-Only): We used a steak knife to slice a 4-ounce portion of steak on the dinner plate from each of our favorite sets. We wanted to see if any juices ran off the sides of the plate or if any scratching occurred from slicing the meat. * Daily Use Test (Winners-Only):* We have placed all of our winners into daily use and will update this review with any further findings after a couple of months.
What We LearnedConsider What You Want in a Dinnerware SetWe did really like when sets had two bowls: one small and one large.Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhile all of the sets we tested included dinner and salad plates, the standardization ended there. Some had pasta bowls, some had soup bowls, some had two bowls, some had dessert plates, and some had mugs. We liked when sets had two bowls (one small, one large), as this felt comprehensive (in my house, we often eat dinner out of behemoth bowls). However, what you want in a dinnerware set is really up to you: maybe a set of mugs is essential or perhaps you already have soup bowls you favor—you get the gist.
You should also determine the aesthetic you want. Whether it should be colorful, modern, all-white to match anything, have a bistro vibe, or feel fancier, for example, is totally up to you.
It’s also worth considering how you’ll buy the dinnerware. We favored sets that could be purchased as full sets as well as in additional single-place settings and individual pieces. That way, you could buy a set and add to it over time or easily replace a piece that breaks.
How Much Should You Spend? Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmAh, a personal question! The right price for dinnerware depends entirely on your budget. Our winners run the gamut of price points, so there should be something for everyone. While our testing panel could immediately (and correctly) point out the more expensive sets, our super budget-friendly pick, from AmazonBasics, was still totally serviceable. It’s not exceptional, but its all-white motif will get the job done and is well-suited if you’re furnishing on the cheap, looking for something for a college student, or buying a dinnerware set for a camper or RV. At $2.25 on average per piece, we don’t feel it’s anything to scoff at.
Wide Rims vs. Straight Walls vs. Gentle SlopesA plate with straight walls (left) and one with gently sloped walls (right).Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmSeveral of the sets had plates and bowls with wide rims (sometimes paired with more angled sides). While they cut down on the amount of flat plate space, the rims gave you a place to grab onto (especially helpful when pulling a plate or bowl out of a microwave or warming oven). We didn’t mind when they had higher walls either, which kept food nice and centered.
Plates with short, straight walls had more of a modern look (which we liked) and had wide, flat surfaces with plenty of room for food. Because the plates’ usable space was so expansive, steak did tend to slide around more as we cut and ate it.
Lastly, some plates had more gentle slopes to their walls. This was kind of like a middle ground between the wide rim-steep side combo and straight walls: still plenty of flat, usable plate space, but a little more corralling of food.
Some of The Mug Handles StunkSerious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWe preferred smaller mugs that help coffee cool faster and allow you to finish a cup before coffee turns cold and sours. We also preferred handles where you could fit at least two fingers through to wrap your hand around the mug. Some of the mugs had small, looped handles that were tougher to hold.
Drinking from the mugs, however, was almost all fine: most had thin enough, unobtrusive lips.
How Easily Did the Plates Scratch? How Durable Was the Dinnerware? Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmIn general, porcelain fared better in our scratching tests—withstanding any marking. The ceramic stoneware tended to scratch more easily. However, most of the marks were super minimal—and we really went at it with a steak knife.
And, for what it’s worth, almost all of the dinnerware emerged from our staining and dishwasher tests spotless.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Dinnerware SetSerious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWe preferred dinnerware sets that were available as a full set and that had additional place settings and/or pieces available for purchase. That way, you can easily add to your collection (or replace something if it breaks). We looked for dinnerware sets that were scratch- and stain-resistant and mugs that were easy to drink from, if the set included one. As for price, we think there’s a ton of great dinnerware out there at a variety of budgets.
What we liked: This all-white set really gave us nothing to complain about. Our testing panel said it’s the kind of set that it “doesn't feel like you could go wrong with.” It features dinner and salad plates with wide rims and small bowls suitable for cereal or starter portions of soup. The dinnerware didn’t stain or scratch and the bowl didn’t get hot in the microwave. Its mug was on the small side, which we liked, and had a slightly tapered shape to it and a medium-sized looped handle that we could easily fit our fingers through, allowing us to securely hold it. Pasta bowls can be purchased separately and extra sets of plates, bowls, and mugs are available.
What we didn’t like: The bowl is on the small side. If we’re splitting hairs, there were a few black specks embedded on the surface of a couple of the plates.
Price at time of publish: $120.
Key Specs What’s included: 4x dinner plates, salad plates, cereal bowls, and mugs * Material: Porcelain * Care instructions:* Microwave- and dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhat we liked: This porcelain set is made in England and includes our recommended flatware set and serving platter (spoiler alert: our platter review will be out soon). The pieces have beautiful, glossy finishes and colorful rims. The set feels very thoughtfully curated and, despite the higher price tag, you get a lot for your money: dinner plates, appetizer plates, bread and butter plates, side bowls, and very spacious entree bowls (plus the aforementioned silverware and platter). Testers described this set as “pretty classic-looking, but with a little flair,” “visually striking,” and “casual and at the same time classic.” It has a lifetime warranty and a “1-year no-chip guarantee.” More sets of plates and bowls (and even a serving bowl) can be purchased separately.
What we didn’t like: This set is pricey. However, while we tested the “Complete” set that includes a platter and silverware, there are “Essential” and “Starter” sets that are less comprehensive and more inexpensive. The bowl did get fairly hot in the microwave.
Price at time of publish: $599.
Key Specs What’s included: 4x dinner plates, appetizer plates, bread and butter plates, entree bowls, and side bowls; 1x serving platter; 4x dinner forks, salad forks, table spoons, dessert spoons, and dinner knives * Material: Porcelain; stainless steel * Care instructions:* Dishwasher- and microwave-safe; oven-safe to 580°F
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhat we liked: Testers said this set reminded them of “way more elegant diner ware.” We liked the heft each piece had to it; it felt very substantial. Its bowls and plates had wide rims that were easy to hold onto and steeper walls that helped to contain food. Its shallow bowl was suitable for pasta or a starter portion of salad. ”I really like the quality; they've stayed shiny and scratch-free even through lots of use and washing,” associate commerce editor Grace Kelly says of this set, which she’s owned for some months. “I also like the timeless aesthetic, which looks good serving just about anything. The small plates are what I mainly use, and they're actually a great size for serving most meals, while I reserve the bigger plates for more formal dinners.”
What we didn’t like: The mug has a thicker, flared lip that some testers didn’t love. It felt like the coffee was more prone to dribble down. Dansk does sell replacement plates and bowls on their website, but they don’t seem to currently be available with the blue stripe motif (just white).
Price at time of publish: $100.
Key Specs What’s included: 4x dinner plates, salad plates, mugs, and rimmed soup bowls * Material: Porcelain * Care instructions:* Dishwasher- and microwave-safe
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhat we liked: This substantial-feeling dinnerware still looks refined and elegant, but has an “everyday-ness about it,” a tester said. It has a bistro look, with blue stripes and extra-wide rims. We liked its slim mug which felt comfortable to hold and drink from and had an elegant handle, like a classic teacup. The soup bowls were wider, with flared edges, and would be equally suitable for pasta. There are extra sets of bowls, plates, and mugs available for purchase, as well as matching cereal bowls (though we didn’t test these).
What we didn’t like: There were little glaze blips on the undersides of the mugs, but these were minor.
Price at time of publish: $230.
Key Specs What’s included: 4x dinner plates, salad plates, soup bowls, and mugs * Material: Porcelain * Care instructions:* Dishwasher- and microwave-safe; oven-safe up to 480°F
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhat we liked: This modern-looking dinnerware had short, straight walls and concentric circles on the surface of its plates. We liked that it came with two bowls, and particularly loved its “pasta bowl,” which was extremely large and could be instead classified as a dinner bowl. This set’s plates didn’t scratch during our tests. Plus, it comes in a range of fun colors (we tested Mustard, though Sky and Olive are also particularly lovely). Additional plates and bowls are available for purchase, as well as mugs and pinch bowls (though we haven’t tested them).
What we didn’t like: There was a bit of pooled, thicker glaze around the outside edge of one of the bowls and one of the plates had some pooled glaze on the underside edge. One of the salad plates arrived with a couple of scratches on its surface.
Price at time of publish: $184.
Key Specs What’s included: 4x dinner plates, pasta bowls, cereal bowls, and salad plates * Material: Stoneware * Care instructions:* Dishwasher- and microwave-safe; oven-safe up to 450°F
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhat we liked: The Le Creuset dinnerware features three concentric rings on each piece, like the lid of its iconic Dutch oven. The pieces feel substantial, yet lightweight and we liked its slight ombre hue (we tested the Lapis color). “I like that it feels very casual but durable,” a tester said. We also liked this set’s mugs: they were on the small side, easy to hold and drink from, and felt well-suited for morning drip coffee, an afternoon latte, or after-dinner tea. Le Creuset tableware is amazingly durable, too: I’ve owned a set of mugs for years that still look new. When buying a set, you can choose between pasta or cereal bowls, which is a nice customization. Additional plates and bowls are available for purchase.
What we didn’t like: It’s on the pricey side, at $16.25 per piece.
Price at time of publish: $296.
Key Specs What’s included: 4x dinner plates, salad plates, mugs, and pasta bowls or cereal bowls * Material: Stoneware * Care instructions:* Dishwasher- and microwave-safe; oven- and broiler-safe up to 500°F
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhat we liked: We didn’t love most of the intentionally asymmetrical sets (they were too thick and too irregular, which made them harder to stack and move). This one was different: it was just asymmetrical enough to add a little charm, with a slight wave to the edge and a gently rippled surface. We liked that the set came with two bowls and that it's available in some lovely shades (you can mix and match the colors, too).
What we didn’t like: During our durability test, the plates developed very light scratches.
Price at time of publish: $264.
Key Specs What’s included: 4x dinner plates, salad plates, pasta bowls, and breakfast bowls * Material: Ceramic * Care instructions:* Dishwasher- and microwave-safe; oven-safe up to 450°F
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhat we liked: This all-white dinnerware isn’t the most beautiful, but it gets the job done and comes with plenty of dishes (service for four) for not a lot of money. It’s lightweight and basic and didn’t scratch. “It's great for someone if you're stocking an Airbnb, looking for a camper, etc.,” a tester noted. Its mug was small, had a thin, unobtrusive lip, and was fine to drink coffee from.
What we didn’t like: This set’s bowls were a bit small for our taste.
Price at time of publish: $42.
Key Specs What’s included: 4x dinner plates, salad/dessert plates, bowls, and mugs * Material: Porcelain * Care instructions:* Dishwasher- and microwave-safe; oven-safe up to 572°F
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhat we liked: This colorful, somewhat transparent, sodalime glass set is made in France. It reminded us of summer—kind of like a glass version of melamine. The plates and bowls have glossy interiors and matte undersides, which added a little grip. Testers called it “pretty” and thought it felt “fresh.”
What we didn’t like: While there are replacement plates and bowls available, they’re harder to find (we had to scour Amazon).
Price at time of publish: $100.
Key Specs What’s included: 4x dinner plates, salad plates, and bowls * Material: Sodalime glass * Care instructions:* Dishwasher- and microwave-safe
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhat we liked: This German-made set is truly beautiful: its bowls and plates feature a flat rim and a creamy, off-white color that feels classic, but still modern. Testers described the aesthetic as “very sweet” and said, “the shapes are beautiful.” We liked its small, tapered mug with a slightly squared-off handle; it felt lovely to hold and drink from. This set didn’t scratch during testing either. The mugs, plates, and bowls are available for sale individually.
What we didn’t like: We had a hard time finding a set with the same mug and bowl as the ones we tested. Others also called “Artesano” seemed to have different-looking pieces. This means you’d have to buy multiples of this place setting for a full set, but it really is beautiful.
Price at time of publish: $97.
Key Specs What’s included: 1x dinner plate, salad plate, bowl, and mug * Material: Porcelain * Care instructions:* Dishwasher- and microwave-safe
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhat we liked: We liked the slightly speckled look of the Staub dinnerware and the stamped “Staub” logo on the top of the plates and sides of the bowls. The bowls are small (ideal for breakfast or a starter portion of soup) and the plates have gently flared edges. There’s a circular indentation on the surface of the plates, which served as a mini juice well when we sliced steak. The dinnerware was fairly lightweight, too. “I like the weight of them though, and I think it's nice it has their name stamped right on them—there's no doubt where they come from,” a tester said.
What we didn’t like: The bowls are fairly small and don’t feel as versatile.
Price at time of publish: $200.
Key Specs What’s included: 4x dinner plates, salad plates, and bowls * Material: Stoneware with enamel finish * Care instructions:* Dishwasher- and microwave-safe
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhat we liked: This dinnerware is unfinished on the underside and has a gently pebbled surface. Testers thought it looked “homey” and like “earthy pottery.” We really liked the size of the bowl: it felt big enough for meals, but not too big for, say, a serving of pasta. The pieces are available individually.
What we didn’t like: The plates developed very light scratches during our durability tests, but they were barely noticeable. When cutting steak, one tester thought that the textured surface made more of a scratching sound. We tested the place setting, as The Full Table was unavailable at the time of this review.
Price at time of publish: $115.
Key Specs What’s included: Full plate, half plate, wide bowl * Material: Clay blend * Care instructions:* Dishwasher- and microwave-safe
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhat we liked: I grew up with Fiesta bowls and there’s a chance you’re familiar with them too (it’s highly collectedand has a whole fan base). Its vibrant hues and concentric circles are iconic-looking. We liked its wide bowl that had a small, flat rim and felt big enough to be versatile. It’s available in individual place settings as well as a service for four.
What we didn’t like: The small, looped handle on the mug was polarizing during our testing: some testers felt there wasn’t enough to grab onto, while others didn’t mind it.
Price at time of publish: $43.
Key Specs What’s included: Cereal bowl, salad plate, dinner plate, and mug * Material: Ceramic * Care instructions:* Dishwasher- and microwave-safe; oven-safe to 350°F
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmThe Competition (They're Still Fine!)* Our Table Starter Set: We liked this set: it looks modern and has straight-sided walls. Its bowls were a great size, too. The plates experienced a little more scratching than we would want, though. Its dinnerware has raw, unfinished rims that are meant to aid in stacking, but picked up oil stains during our testing. However, it’s still a beautiful set, if you’re interested in it. * West Elm Textured Stoneware Dinnerware: We liked the look and multi-textured element of this dinnerware, but one of the salad plates chipped when we gently (and accidentally) knocked it into a dinner plate. * Crate & Barrel Lina Blue Stripe 16-Piece Place Setting: We liked this set’s expansive dinner plates, but didn’t love the bulbous mug (it was harder to drink from) and asymmetrical-shaped bowl that felt awkward to hold, carry, and stack. * Crate & Barrel Marin White 4-Piece Place Setting: This set had a steep, v-shaped bowl that felt less versatile. We also thought its mug’s rim was too thick.
FAQsWhere’s the best place to buy dinnerware sets? There are plenty of great places to buy dinnerware (like Williams Sonoma and Food52). And all of our favorite dinnerware sets are available for purchase online—some at multiple retailers.
What are the most durable dinnerware sets for everyday use?We performed several tests to evaluate the durability of the dinnerware sets in our review. For the most part, porcelain sets performed really well and remained scratch- and stain-free. Many of our favorite sets, like the Open Kitchen by Williams Sonoma 16-Piece Dinnerware Set and Dansk Cafe Blanc Stripe Porcelain Dinnerware, are durable and suited for everyday use.
What’s a good brand for dinnerware?There’s a ton of great dinnerware out there from various brands. Our top picks include sets from Williams Sonoma, Le Creuset, Dansk, Staub, Luminarc, Fiesta, and more.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen asked to choose between pie or cake, my answer is unequivocally pie. Though my favorite ones almost always feature ripe summer fruit, I do have a soft spot for coconut cream pie. Filled with a rich custard and topped with lightly sweetened whipped cream and a sprinkling of toasted flaked coconut, each bite is fragrant, nutty, and a delight to eat. It’s a simple pie to make, too—with a blind-baked crust at the ready, all you have to do is whisk together a custard filling, scrape it into your crust, and allow it to chill until it’s set before you top it with whipped cream and toasted coconut.
Though it’s difficult to trace the exact origins of coconut cream pie, there are recipes from the 19th century, like the “cocoa-nut cream” in Mary Randolph’s 1824 book The Virginia Housewife and the “cocoa-nut pudding” in Eliza Leslie’s 1828 book Seventy-Five Receipts for Pastry, Cakes, and Sweetmeats, two creamy coconut confections that could have paved the way for what we now know as coconut cream pie. Perhaps the earliest iteration of an actual coconut pie is the “cocoa-nut pie” found in the 1843 book Mrs. Ellis’s Housekeeping Made Easy, which asks its readers to painstakingly grate their own fresh coconut for the dessert.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBecause of the labor involved, coconut desserts likely didn’t become popular in the United States until desiccated coconut became widely available. In her book BraveTart, Serious Eats' own Stella Parks writes at length about a man named Franklin Baker who, with his son Frank Jr., decided to desiccate coconut for resale at the turn of the twentieth century. The “venture was such a rousing success,” she notes, “that they abandoned their previous careers to enter the ‘cocoanut trade’ together.” When the 1920s rolled around, the Bakers began to advertise their coconut products with a recipe for a meringue-topped coconut cream pie—a dessert that, according to Stella, was “the cat’s meow” throughout the Roaring Twenties. Somewhere along the way, whipped cream eventually replaced the meringue.
The Best Dairy to Use for Coconut Cream PieUnlike many of the coconut cream pie recipes today, which call for making the custard with some combination of dairy—usually milk, heavy cream, half-and-half, or evaporated milk—the Bakers’ pie used coconut milk exclusively for a more pronounced coconut flavor. For my coconut cream pie, I wanted a filling that was luscious and had a clear coconut flavor without being overly rich or sweet. I tested several custards: one made entirely with coconut milk, one made with a combination of coconut milk and whole milk, and another with coconut milk and half-and-half.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile the custard made with just coconut milk tasted the most, well, coconutty, it was also the most one-dimensional of the three. The combination of coconut milk and half-and-half was delicious, but wasn’t exponentially more flavorful than the custard made with coconut milk and whole milk. Because coconut milk’s natural fats already make it so rich, I didn’t test with heavy cream, especially since I felt that the coconut milk and half-and-half mixture already verged on being just a bit too creamy. The best custard was the combination of coconut milk with whole milk, which produced a filling that had a prominent but balanced coconut flavor and perfectly silky texture.
Making and Thickening the CustardThe custard filling is, essentially, a pastry cream: You combine your dairy (here, a mixture of whole milk and full-fat coconut milk) with sugar, salt, eggs, and starch, and cook it over the stovetop until fully thickened. As Kristina Razon wrote in her crème patissiere recipe, the success of your pastry cream will depend on whether you sufficiently heat your custard base, which relies on starch and eggs as its thickeners. Heat jumpstarts the process of gelatinization; when heated to 175ºF (79ºC), the starch molecules begin to swell and the egg proteins begin to coagulate, thickening the pastry cream.
Now, you might think that heating the custard to 175ºF would be enough to thicken the pastry cream. But yolks contain an enzyme called amylase, which can dissolve starch molecules over time and liquify your custard. “The solution to this problem,” wrote Kristina, “requires getting the pastry cream even hotter—to what we might describe as a ‘bubble,’ with the mixture at a temperature just shy of boiling. Holding the pastry cream at a bubble while whisking constantly for a minute or so deactivates the amylase so that it’s no longer a threat to the structure of the custard.” If you’ve ever made pastry cream and chilled it—only to return to a soupy mess in the fridge—it’s likely you didn’t cook it long enough and amylase got the best of you and your custard.
To beat amylase at its own game, we’re going to bring our coconut custard base to a bubble and whisk it constantly for a full minute to deactivate it. It may be tempting to walk away, but whisking is essential for a smooth pastry cream, and the minute you stop whisking, you risk scorching your pastry cream. Toasted coconut is nice, but nobody wants coconut cream pie that tastes burned.
Sweetened vs. Unsweetened Shredded CoconutThere’s a reason why most coconut cream pie recipes call for sweetened shredded coconut mixed into the custard: it’s exponentially more flavorful than unsweetened coconut. As someone who fears way-too-sweet desserts, though, I was curious to see if using unsweetened coconut in the filling would help temper some of the pie’s sweetness.
Tasting the two fillings side-by-side, the custard with the sweetened coconut had a much more pronounced tropical, nutty flavor, while the filling with the unsweetened coconut was flat. Even when I retested by increasing the amount of sugar in the custard, it still felt lacking. For a balanced and flavorful filling, I used sweetened shredded coconut, seasoned the custard generously with salt, and was mindful of the amount of sugar I incorporated in order to control its overall sweetness.
The Best Crust to Use for Coconut Cream PieBecause the pie doesn’t require additional baking after you’ve filled the crust with custard, it’s essential to use a blind-baked pie crust. Here, I’ve opted for Stella’s buttery, flaky pie crust, which gets its tenderness from a 1:1 ratio of butter to flour and, because it’s made with all-purpose flour, has just enough gluten to hold its shape in the oven as it bakes. For more tips on blind-baking, follow Stella’s tips and instructions here.
Assembling and Chilling the PieWith your filling made, the rest is, shall I say… easy as pie? After the custard has cooled over an ice bath for 30 minutes, you’ll scrape it into your blind-baked crust, press plastic wrap over the surface of the custard to prevent a skin from forming, and refrigerate the pie until set. If you’d like to make the pie ahead of time, you can prepare it up until this point and keep it refrigerated for up to three days. All that’s left to do is to top your dessert with whipped cream and toasted coconut flakes when you’re ready to serve.
In a medium heat-proof bowl, stir together cornstarch, granulated sugar, and salt. Whisk in egg yolks until smooth.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large bowl, set up an ice bath by partially filling it with a combination of cold water and ice. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a 2-quart saucier or saucepan, combine coconut milk, whole milk, and vanilla extract. Set over medium-low heat and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and, while whisking constantly, slowly pour milk into egg yolk mixture in a thin stream until all of it has been added.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezReturn the mixture to the same saucepan. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the custard begins to thicken, about 4 minutes. Once it thickens, continue to whisk, pausing every few seconds to check for bubbles, about 1 minute. When it begins to bubble, set a timer and continue whisking for 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRemove from heat, then strain the custard through a fine-mesh strainer set over a heatproof medium bowl. Fold in sweetened shredded coconut and immediately place plastic wrap directly on the surface of the custard. Transfer bowl to prepared ice bath to chill for 30 minutes, then scrape the custard into the prepared blind-baked pie crust. Press plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the custard and refrigerate until set, about 4 hours.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez30 minutes before you plan to serve the pie, adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350ºF (175ºC). Spread flaked coconut on a rimmed baking sheet and toast, shaking the pan occasionally, until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Remove from oven and allow coconut to cool to room temperature, about 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen ready to serve, top pie with whipped cream and garnish with toasted flaked coconut.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment2 medium heat-proof bowls, 2-quart saucier or saucepan, whisk, fine-mesh strainer, rimmed baking sheet
Make-Ahead and StorageThe pie crust can be made and filled with custard up to three days in advance; top with whipped cream and toasted flaked coconut just before serving.
Daniel GritzerAn Easter or Christmas ham is a thing of beauty, but after eating it for a day or two, we've usually had our fair share. So what to do with the leftovers other than reheat them? We're so glad you asked. Below are some of our favorite leftover ham recipes, from easy scones to loaded omelettes, and even a bowl of chilled ramen.
Easy Ham and Cheese SconesVicky WasikThese scones are the best way to use up leftover ham, and a welcome addition to any brunch.
Western Omelette With Bell Pepper, Onion, Ham, and CheeseDaniel GritzerThanks to nicely browned onions, bell peppers, ham, and a pinch of smoked paprika, this omelette truly tastes like it came straight from a diner.
Cuban SandwichesSerious Eats / Diana ChistrugaA Cuban sandwich is not much more than a gussied-up ham and cheese toastie. Here, three meats are pressed with cheese, pickles, and mustard until toasty and warm.
Diner-Style Ham and Cheese Omelette for TwoPhotographs: J. Kenji López-Alt. Video: Serious Eats VideoOur basic technique for diner-style omelettes with large, tender, browned curds leaves plenty of space for fillings—including all that leftover ham.
Hasselbacked Croque Monsieur BagelsVicky WasikThrow custom to the wind and cut your bagel vertically, like a Hasselbacked potato, turning each slit into the perfect receptacle for slices of ham and cheese.
Sheet-Pan Cuban SandwichesMorgan EisenbergThese sheet-pan Cuban sandwiches feature all of the flavors of the classic sandwich, but in an easy-to-make, party-friendly package.
Flipped Frittata With Asparagus, Spinach, Ham, and CheeseJ. Kenji Lopez-AltCompared to a normal finished-in-the-oven frittata, which can take on a poofy, souffléd texture, flipping produces a much creamier, denser omelette.
French Crepes With Ham, Cheese, and EggsPhotographs: J. Kenji López-Alt. Video: Serious Eats VideoA sunny-side-up fried egg surrounded by ham and cheese makes an extra-special presentation for classic French crepes.
Cheesy, Gooey Croques MonsieursVicky WasikHam, cheese, rich sauce, and golden-toasted bread make this French classic perfect. Put an egg on it, and you have the equally delicious croque madame.
Classic Breakfast SandwichThere's nothing like a savory, loaded breakfast sandwich to start off your day.
Hiyashi Chuka (Cold Ramen) With Shrimp, Ham, and VegetablesShao Z.One of our favorite chilled meals? Hiyashi chuka, a chilled ramen topped with all sorts of goodies and tossed in a bright, simple dressing.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubI bake a lot of sourdough bread, but I never considered the knife I was using to slice it until senior commerce editor Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm sent me the Tojiro Bread Slicer as a gift. I immediately noticed how swiftly it sliced through even the densest crust, and its extra-long blade meant I could bisect even the widest part of my loaves with ease. I wasn’t the only one who experienced this, either—associate commerce editor Grace Kelly fell in love with it the same way.
“Riddley gave me the Tojiro bread knife when I first started here, and it was love at first slice (sorry). But for real, its sharpness and agility blew me away, so much so that I used it at my backyard wedding to hew hunks of sourdough for guests. Sadly, a guest ‘accidentally’ took it home with them (the perp still hasn't been found), and I had to buy a new one; but it's so affordable I almost didn't mind," she says.
While its affordable price point is a bonus, the main reason we love the Tojiro Bread Slicer is its amazing performance.
"I've owned the Tojiro bread knife for a few years now and have been infinitely impressed with it,” says Riddley. “It saws through all sorts of loaves with ease and has a thin, flexible blade that's helpful for peeling butternut squash and even just slicing juicy tomatoes without smushing them.” Her experience lines up with our serrated knife testing, where senior culinary director Daniel Gritzer found it tackled delicate tasks easily and was still sturdy enough for tough jobs.
The takeaway: Even up against knives that cost ten times as much, the Tojiro Bread Slicer comes out on top. It’s rare to find this combination of price and performance in a knife, and whether you buy one for yourself or for a friend, it will be well worth it.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubTo buy: Tojiro Bread Slicer, $25 at amazon.com
Good to Know Materials: High-carbon stainless steel, wood * Blade length: 10 inches * Total length: 15 inches * Weight:* .24 lbs
FAQsCan you use a bread knife to slice tomatoes?Slicing tomatoes is tricky—the outside skin is rubbery, but the delicate interior structure risks smushing. Serrated knives are designed to slice bread, but our favorite serrated knife, the Tojiro Bread Slicer, is lightweight and nimble enough to also slice tomatoes. In our testing, not every bread knife was able to tackle this delicate task.
Why does my homemade bread crumble when I try to slice it?Delicate sandwich loaves are tricky to cut because of their pillowy soft interior, and only a sharp and nimble bread knife is able to slice through the loaf without catching and tearing the crumb on its way through. In our testing, only two knives were able to neatly slice through soft bread, with the Tojiro Bread Slicer as our favorite.
Serious Eats / Julie BangWhile caviar (the salted, cured, unfertilized egg of a sturgeon) isn’t something people buy oodles of (unless perhaps you’re a restaurant serving caviar bumps), maybe you want to amp up the fanciness of a dinner party, and serving caviar (and some good wine) is one way to do it. But where can you get it? Not everyone has a specialty store or fishmonger nearby, after all.
Turns out that, like much stuff these days, you can buy it online. While we already have an article that dives deep into caviar’s nuances, we wanted to round up a few of the top online stores where you can buy an ounce (or two) of the briny stuff after you’ve done your research.
One thing to note: it ain’t cheap, but then again, that’s sort of the point.
A Few Tips for Buying Caviar OnlineLook For Sellers That Repack and Age Caviar ThemselvesSince caviar is an investment, you probably want to make sure you’re getting a quality product. “The number of caviar brands has proliferated exponentially over the last 10 years because it's as simple as taking a tin and putting a sticker on it,” says Chris Sherman, CEO of Island Creek Oysters in Duxbury, Massachusetts. He explains that at Island Creek Oyster, they actually re-package the caviar they buy (and age it), to ensure the product is up to par.
“So much of the quality has to do with how it's actually repacked from the original tins into the tins that you buy as a consumer,” he says. “That process is really critical and it takes years to perfect.” So,when you’re buying caviar online, if you can find a place that repacks and ages the caviar, that’s a good place to start. While this information isn’t always readily available, most reliable brands (including some in our list below) go this route.
Sturgeon Species (and Where the Caviar Comes From) Affects PriceSerious Eats / J. Kenji Lopez-AltAnother factor to consider when purchasing caviar is the breed of sturgeon and where it’s from.
Caviar from certain breeds, like osetra and Siberian, can be more expensive because it’s often imported from other countries, which adds to the price. When you’re shopping for caviar online, you’ll also probably notice a lack of one of the most famous breeds: beluga. Beluga sturgeon, which are native to the Caspian Sea, were fished to dangerously low populations (they are still critically endangered), leading the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to ban Beluga caviar importation in 2005. The good news is that there’s great caviar being produced sustainably from other breeds of sturgeon (as well as a few select U.S.-based fisheries that raise Beluga and Beluga hybrids), and you can buy it online.
Sherman explains that when it comes to locally produced caviar, white sturgeon, which is native to California, is a great option. “The vast majority of North American production is white sturgeon. It's a really incredible product and because it's grown locally, it doesn't have to be shipped from overseas and imported,” he says. This often makes it less expensive than other (rarer) and imported varieties (since shipping and handling add to the cost). Flavor-wise, Sherman says white sturgeon has the typical briny, ocean taste of caviar, but is followed by a “buttery, creamy note,” and “parmesan cheese” flavor.
Make Sure the Caviar is from Sturgeon Serious Eats / J. Kenji Lopez-AltAnother thing to consider when you’re buying caviar is to make sure you are buying sturgeon caviar. Oftentimes other roes are sold under the banner of “caviar,” but only eggs from sturgeons are the real thing. “There's paddlefish roe and some people do market that as caviar even though it's not technically caviar. It's roe because caviar has to come from sturgeon,” says Sherman. While fish roe has its merits and tastes delicious, it’s not caviar.
When Picking a Tin, Consider Serving Size If it’s just you and your significant other, Sherman suggests going for a 30-gram tin, while a larger group warrants a 100- or 250-gram tin (for people who can’t get enough of the briny stuff). “If you're gonna just have a date night, 30 grams is perfectly sufficient,” he says. “If you're having a larger gathering, I think 100 grams or 250 grams is plenty for a group of six to eight people.” Also, it’s important to note that caviar is best served within a few days of opening the tin. Any longer, and it starts to degrade.
Where to Buy Caviar OnlineIsland Creek OystersWhile their brand has the word oyster in it, this Duxbury, Massachusetts-located monger sells more than just bivalves—they also sell tinned fish, lobster, and, pertinent to this article, caviar. Their caviar collection includes more affordable options, like white sturgeon caviar, which costs between $115 to $190 per 30-gram tin, and pricier picks like osetra which starts at $190 for 30 grams. They also offer so-called caviar flights if you want to do an at-home, side-by-side tasting (fun!), as well as caviar/oyster bundles (you could use the caviar as an ultra-luxe oyster topper).
- What You Can Buy: White sturgeon caviar from Italy, Idaho, or California; Siberian caviar from Italy; Osetra caviar from North Carolina; caviar flights; caviar and oyster pairings
- Caviar Price Range: $115-$190 for 30 grams, with larger options available
- Shipping Info: Island Creek gives you the option to customize your shipping (to a point), which means you can have your caviar delivered close to the date you want to serve it.
Fulton Fish MarketWith an expansive range of frutti di mare in general, Fulton’s selection of caviar is similarly varied. They offer white sturgeon caviar, Osetra caviar, and more. You can also purchase a “domestic caviar assortment package” for $320, which includes a sampler of various locally produced varietals (though be warned: a good portion of the fish eggs included are not technically caviar, they are roe), as well as blini, creme fraiche, and a mother of pearl spoon for serving.
- What You Can Buy: Osetra caviar, White sturgeon caviar, sampler packs, caviar gear (mother-of-pearl spoon and bowl), caviar accompaniments (blini, creme fraiche). They also sell other roes (from paddlefish, salmon, and trout), as well as bottarga, wild shad roe, and uni.
- Caviar Price Range: Starting at around $40-$420 for 28 grams, depending on the caviar
- Shipping Info: You can choose a shipping date and delivery instructions, as well as allow for substitutions should something be out of stock. They also offer the opportunity to write a gift message.
Regiis Ova CaviarThis fancy online store was founded by chef Thomas Keller and Shaoching Bishop, the former CEO of Sterling Caviar and Tsar Nicoulai Caviar. In addition to selling their caviar online, they also run the Regiis Ova Caviar and Champagne Lounge in Yountville, California, where you can eat caviar IRL in fancy digs, a glass of champagne in hand.
- What You Can Buy: Not only can you buy sturgeon caviar (Osetra, Kaluga, Siberian), Regiis Ova also sells various roes, sampler sets, gift boxes (one goes for $1000—what a gift!), accouterments, and even gift cards.
- Caviar Price Range: Starting at $90-$165 for 30-gram tins
- Shipping Info: Upon checking out you can choose your delivery date. Note that all orders arrive via FedEx priority overnight, and they deliver Tuesday through Friday. Friday orders will deliver the following Tuesday.
Marky’s Marky’s is one of the few caviar producers in the U.S. to sell Beluga caviar (their U.S.-based producer was granted an exception by the FDA for local production). As such, you can get a taste of this famous fish’s eggs—but you’ll pay a pretty penny for it, with a 28-gram tin starting at $830. If that’s too mind-boggling a number for you, they also offer other caviar at lower prices, like American white sturgeon caviar at $82 for a 28-gram tin.
- What You Can Buy: Marky’s offers Beluga (Huso Huso) and Beluga hybrid caviar, as well as Kaluga, osetra, sevruga, sterlet, Siberian, and white sturgeon caviar—take your pick! In addition to caviar, they also sell a variety of roes, gift sets, and accessories. And not only can you buy caviar—you can go lush and indulge in foie gras and truffles, too.
- Caviar Price Range: Starting at$65-$830 for 28-gram tins.
- Shipping Info: They offer overnight shipping to ensure the caviar stays fresh.
Caviar RusseDespite its name, Caviar Russe doesn’t source its caviar from Russia. Instead, they’re based in New York City and offer a wide variety of caviar styles (including pressed caviar, which is more like a spread), most imported from sustainable fisheries in Germany. They also pack their caviar to order, which is a good sign of quality.
- What You Can Buy: Caviar Russe offers a wide array of caviar, including osetra, sevruga, sterlet, Siberian, Pacific, and pressed. They also sell caviar collections, which tailor a tasting set up, and also sell salmon and trout roe. As with many other sellers, you can also furnish accompaniments, like blini and creme fraiche, or go luxe with foie gras and truffles, too.
- Caviar Price Range: $95 for 28 grams of pressed caviar; $115 to $595 for 28-gram tins
- Shipping Info: You can choose your delivery date, and they offer next-day delivery.
PetrossianFounded in 1920, French-brand Petrossian has long been a purveyor of fine food items, including caviar. Each caviar’s description notes the species, origin (many are imported), farming method, and shipping options. They even offer a Beluga-Sevruga hybrid sturgeon caviar, giving you a taste of this famed, briny roe.
- What You Can Buy: There are a ton of options to choose from, including Osetra, Kaluga, Beluga hybrid, Sevruga, Alverta, and much more (accompanied by tasting notes, origin and farming information, and some very cute illustrations). Petrossian also sells some “special reserve” options, which are more exclusive for one reason or another. These fetch a far higher price than other caviars; for example, a 125-gram serving (serves two to four people) of “Special Reserve Alverta Caviar” costs a whopping $1,535. In addition to caviar, Petrossian also sells smoked fish, truffles, sweets, and more.
- Caviar Price Range: Starting at $77-$554 for 30-gram tins
- Shipping Info: Caviar ships FedEx Overnight.
FAQsWhat is sustainable caviar?Sustainable caviar refers to the process by which the sturgeon are raised. According to Chris Sherman, this usually refers to one of two types of production. “One is a closed system, a land-based aquaculture system where they're recirculating much of the water they use many times before it gets discharged,” he says. “And that's really ideal because it creates the least amount of effluent and waste.” The second production method is raising sturgeon in a river or waterway, which requires a little more finesse. “They create containment pens that divert water from the river,” says Sherman. They have to monitor the water going in and out of the pens and ensure that sturgeon don’t escape and breed with the local population; doing a proper job of this counts as sustainable fishery production.
Why is caviar so expensive?Caviar is pricey because sturgeon are rare, fisheries take a lot of labor to manage, they have to dispatch the fish when they harvest the eggs, and a lot of fisheries are in other countries, meaning a lot of caviar is imported. All of these factors add up to a pricey tin of fish eggs.
What is the difference between caviar and roe?All caviar is roe, but not all roe is caviar (confusing, right?). Basically, caviar is defined as the cured, unfertilized eggs of the sturgeon, while roe (which is also cured) can be from any fish. You can’t call salmon eggs caviar!
Is caviar actually fish eggs?Yes, caviar is the unfertilized fish eggs of the sturgeon fish.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThere’s nothing quite like a chicken wing pulled straight out of the fryer, when the battered exterior is golden and crunchy, and the interior is steaming and tender. “A fryer provides a really consistent, dry cooking method that makes things crispy and also keeps proteins moist,” says chef Ricky Arias of Manhattan’s Bar Lula. Sure, you can achieve that effect with a couple of quarts of oil heated until sizzling in your Dutch oven on your stove. But there’s good reason to introduce an electric deep fryer to your home kitchen for accomplishing this specialty job.
“I use deep fryers over Dutch ovens for capacity and control,” says chef Shannon Bingham of New Orlean’s Devil Moon BBQ. “With a good fryer, I don’t have to worry about hot spots or constantly having to futz around with the flame on the stove like I would with a Dutch oven.” With its lid, handled basket, and built-in thermometer, an electric deep fryer has one job to do: fry things correctly. It frees up your other cookware, preserving it for the braising, roasting, and sautéing you probably do far more frequently.
If you get the right fryer, it’s a lot of fun to use; you’ll feel like a short-order cook, dropping the basket in and watching your French fries bubble to perfection. And with a design that allows you to fry with the lid closed and then hook the basket onto the side, so that the excess oil can drip from the fresh-fried food back into the container, it helps keeps your kitchen cleaner than it would be when you’re frying in an all-purpose pot.
In fact, the key to successful frying is cleanliness. As Bingham advises, “Be sure to filter your oil after every use to get more longevity out of it and remove any bitter burnt pieces leftover.” As it turns out, our favorite model made filtering the oil and cleaning the machine the easiest.
The Winners, at a Glance“When I'm looking at deep fryers, I prioritize ones that heat and cook evenly and are easy to clean,” Bingham says. The All-Clad fit the bill. Deep and narrow, it’s designed to save space and evenly cook whatever you put in it. But its real asset is its built-in cleaning function. Turn a knob, and the oil drains out of the container through a filter into a removable, hard-plastic box where it’s stored in the machine for future use.
Given its gentle price tag, we were pleasantly surprised by the consistency and speed of the Chefman. A no-nonsense machine, it heated up much quicker than similar models. Due to its large capacity, it does require more oil than others (which can add up in cost over time), but its wide basket made maneuvering and frying foods easy and efficient.
The TestsSerious Eats / Russell Kilgore French Fries Test: We fried one pound of frozen French fries to see how the models handled a common food (and one that’s frozen!). We timed how long it took for the deep fryer to reach 350°F, what the fryer’s temperature dropped to when we added the fries, and how long it took to come back up to 350°F. We also recorded the amount of time it took each fryer to cook the fries to a crispy, golden brown. * Deep-Fried Pickles Test: We made deep-fried pickles to see how the deep fryers did with a wet batter and a higher temperature. We recorded what the temperature dropped to when the food was added and how long it took to recover. * Fried Chicken Test (Winners-Only): With our favorite models, we made fried chicken to see how the deep fryer fared at cooking meat and achieving golden-brown wings within the time required by the recipe. * Usability and Cleanup Tests:* Throughout testing, we evaluated how easy it was to remove the basket, grip the basket’s handle, and reposition the basket. We also evaluate how easy it was to drain the oil and clean the deep fryer.
What We LearnedOil Clean-Up Was Everything, and the Model That Made This Task Easy Was Our FavoriteDraining the Cuisinart deep fryer.Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThank goodness for the All-Clad! After we fried each batch of food in it, we just left it alone, and it drained and filtered the oil all by itself, funneling it into a convenient, hard-plastic box in the bottom of the unit, where it was stored to be added back into the oil container for future use.
We loved this feature. Two manufacturers, the Cuisinart and the De’Longhi, tried to achieve some sort of help with draining by adding drain spouts to their machines, and the De’Longhi was more successful. We could position an external container beneath the open spout and just let the oil run out. But the filter on the spout was so small, we foresaw it getting clogged in the future. The Cuisinart was a disaster. Its spout is so short that a plastic tube attachment is required, and that awkward part fell off while draining, causing oil to spill all over the floor.
With help like that, we don’t want it. Instead of spouts, we preferred the wide, shallow containers of the Chefman and Secura, as they were easy to maneuver into a position for pouring oil through a fine-mesh sieve into an external container. Of these, the Chefman is preferable because its container is slightly easier to dislodge from its housing than the Secura’s.
Some Machines Were More Efficient Than Others at Heating to TemperatureOil "ready" buttons weren't super reliable.Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThough every model has a temperature gauge and a means of showing that the oil has heated to the proper degree, an external thermometer can help verify the temperature. We found that, despite “Oil Ready” buttons lighting up, none of our fryers heated to the temperature we programmed them to. Our external thermometer (a ThermoWorks ChefAlarm) belied every temperature knob and LED display. The Chefman, for instance, hovered at 324°F when programmed at 350°F and wouldn’t go higher. The Cuisinart wouldn’t budge past 347°F. Though this didn’t, in the end, affect the flavor or texture of the food, it is an inconsistency that makes the machines’ gauges seem less than trustworthy.
The De’Longhi heated up the quickest and cooked the fries in nine minutes. Most achieved golden fries in 10 minutes. According to our external thermometer, however, a couple of the machines took so long to get anywhere near the required temperature that we nearly threw in the towel. The Secura was the biggest offender. After nearly an hour, it still hadn’t come up to 350°F, the proper temperature for cooking frozen French fries, and when we threw the fries in anyway, the temperature of the oil plummeted more than 150°F before recovering. Truth be told, the oil in the All-Clad plunged to 244°F at one point, too, but because it hit the correct temperature to begin with and recovered quickly, it cooked the fries to perfection in 10 minutes' time.
Straightforward Designs Worked BetterSerious Eats / Russell KilgoreCooking in a tub of boiling-hot oil is work enough; you shouldn’t have to master complicated bells and whistles in order to deep fry. Simply put, the Cuisinart deep fryer is over-designed. It seems to have been made in order to fit the multiple parts of the rotisserie function into the oil container. But the container itself was too big to fit even into our deep farmhouse sink, and it did not sit flush on the counter when we removed it from the housing. That made clean-up awkward. We much preferred the machines with simple, box-shaped containers that fit into our sink and that we could rest on our countertop when we removed them from their housing.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe same principal applied to the time and temperature gauges. Breville’s heating unit was over-designed, with pre-set temperatures that were complicated to override. Though we liked the looks of the De’Longhi’s LED display, the pre-set, 9-degree increments of that model were confounding. We preferred the simple knobs that allowed us to program the temperature and time to the settings of our choice.
The makers of the Secura boast about another over-design problem: “triple baskets.” The unit comes with, not just one big basket, but two small ones that fit side-by-side and can be used as an alternative to the larger one. That seems like a good idea: fry shrimp in one basket and onion rings in the next. But, in reality, the twin baskets are so small that they’re impractical and threaten to crowd foods—a drawback for even frying.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Deep FryerSerious Eats / Russell Kilgore“My best advice for using a deep fryer would be to be safe and clean,” Arias says. Self-filtering and self-draining, the All-Clad 3.5-Quart Deep Fryer addresses both concerns. It keeps the hot oil away from your hands, and it separates the oil from the burnt bits of food that would otherwise spoil it for future use. It’s also easy to use, with a straightforward control panel.
What we liked: This deep fryer is self-filtering and self-draining. It funnels the oil through a filtered vent into a box beneath the container, storing it for future use while leaving the leftover bits of fried food in the container for easy cleaning. That’s a boon for home cooking when you don’t have the time or wherewithal to deal with liters of used oil. It also came up to temperature fairly quickly and, with its nice, deep container, did a good job of frying items to a golden brown.
What we didn’t like: Regardless of the Oil Ready Light’s illumination, the temperature on the dial did not match the temperature of the oil, according to the reading on our external thermometer. The temperature on our external thermometer tended to bounce up and down several degrees with this model, making an accurate assessment of temperature difficult. That did not prove too big a hindrance to successful frying, but it was an inconsistency—one, in fact, shared by all the fryers.
Price at time of publish: $210.
Key Specs Parts: Frying basket; lid; control unit with heating element; removable oil container with built-in filter; removable oil box * Care instructions: Basket, container, lid, and oil box are dishwasher-safe; unit is self-filtering and self-draining; turn knob to “Automatic Oil Filtration” setting and allow 2 hours to drain; turn knob to “Oil Box” to remove oil box for draining * Notable features: A patented oil filtration system cleans and stores used oil * Temperature settings: 300°F to 385°F * Cord length: 25 inches * Dimensions: 18.2 inches long x 13.7 inches wide x 14.7 inches high * Weight: 16.5 lbs * Wattage: 1500 * Oil capacity:* 3.5 liters
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreWhat we liked: Pared down to its elemental function, this is a straightforward, easy machine to use. There were no confusing bells and whistles. It came up to frying temperature fairly quickly, and the wide container and basket allow plenty of room for pieces of food to fry evenly all around.
What we didn’t like: This unit will give you no help with draining and clean-up. You basically are on your own, pouring the cooled oil through a fine-mesh strainer into an external container for future use. The filters that do fit into the lid didn't seem very effective for odor or particle elimination.
Price at time of publish: $70.
Key Specs Parts: Frying basket; lid; removable filters; removable control unit; removable oil container * Care instructions: Wait 3 hours until oil is cooled and then drain container; do not store oil in unit; oil container and basket are dishwasher-safe; clean the lid with using a sponge and soapy water; rinse and dry all thoroughly; clean the heating element with a damp cloth; ensure that all components are dry before placing them back inside the fryer; the filters need to be replaced after repeated usage; replacement filters are provided * Notable features: There are two filters within the filter chamber; the white one filters oil and the charcoal filter helps keep odors at bay * Temperature settings: 250°F to 375°F * Cord length: 30 inches * Dimensions: 12 inches long x 6.25 inches wide x 11.25 inches high * Weight: 7.13 lbs * Wattage: 1700 * Oil capacity:* 4.5 liters
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreThe Competition* Breville Smart Fryer: This compact fryer took a long time to heat up, and then our external thermometer's temperature careened upwards, as the fryer heated to far greater than its dial was set for. That’s a scary scenario. Also, the heating unit is pre-programmed, and changing the temperature and time from those settings is not intuitive. * Cuisinart Extra-Large Rotisserie Deep Fryer: Not only does this model guzzles oil and time, taking too long to come up to proper temperature, but this huge, unwieldy fryer has some design problems that make safety an issue. The basket has sharp metal parts. The container does not sit flush on a counter or fit in the average home kitchen sink. And the plastic tube that attaches to the drain spout is ill-fitting and falls off easily. All of that makes it difficult, and potentially dangerous, to drain and clean. The rotisserie attachment might be nice for deep-fried turkey aficionados, but that doesn’t make up for its shortcomings. * De’Longhi Livenza Deep Fryer: We liked the snug lid, the LED display, and the drain spout on this unit. Unlike the Cuisinart, the spout did not require an external tube for draining, and that made the task fairly easy. But, the temperature settings only allow for 9-degree increments in Fahrenheit, so programming it for exactly 350°F or 375°F is impossible. * Secura Triple-Basket Deep Fryer: This unit looks nearly identical to the Chefman, but the difference is in the heating unit. The Secura’s took a ridiculously long time to come up to temperature—so long, in fact, that were we not testing but, instead, trying to fry for our culinary pleasure, we would have abandoned it long before it heated and ordered out instead for our fries!
FAQsHow do you use a deep fryer?Using a deep fryer is fairly straightforward. You drop the container into the housing, attach the heating element to the housing, pour in the oil, plug the unit in, cover it with a lid, and wait until it comes up to temperature. Then you sink your food into the hot oil with the help of a fryer basket. When filling the basket, says Bingham: “My advice to anyone using a deep fryer is to add less food than you think. Overcrowding the fryer will prevent food from cooking evenly and can make pieces of food stick to each other.”
How do you clean a deep fryer? Cleaning depends on the model. The best ones have an easy means of emptying the oil. Others leave you on your own to pour the oil from the container through a fine-mesh sieve to filter it for future use. After you’ve dealt with the oil, you’ll want to use soap and water—or the dishwasher, if the manufacturer says the model is safe for that—to wash the housing, basket, and container, eliminating oil residue that would otherwise affect the flavor of later batches of food. The heating unit can’t be submerged, so it must be wiped down. Every part should be dry before you re-assemble and use your fryer again.
What happens if you put ice in a deep fryer? Ever cook a bag of frozen French fries? When you place them in the deep fryer, they sizzle, and the oil bubbles up. The extreme clash in temperatures, from the frozen fries to the boiling oil, causes the sluggish molecules in the frozen food to jolt into action. It’s subtle because you’re cooking your fries in small batches. But throwing a bunch of pure ice cubes into a fryer is a recipe for disaster. The molecules that have slowed into a solid state in the freezer careen into liquid form instantaneously, and then start to vaporize, increasing pressure in the fryer, and causing the oil to boil over explosively. Not good.
Can you cook frozen foods in a deep fryer? You can cook frozen foods in the deep fryer. Just be judicious about how much you put in at once, and the reaction when the cold items meet the hot oil won’t be overwhelming.
How do you dispose of deep fryer oil? Allow the oil to cool to room temperature in the container of the fryer, and then drain it into a disposable container, such as plastic deli tub, and fasten the lid on. Then you can throw it in the trash bin.
Serious Eats / Vy TranPhở has become a culinary icon in recent years, but its existence is relatively new, when one considers Vietnam’s long history. While most historians agree that phở was invented some time between the late 19th century and the early 20th century in northern Vietnam under the French occupation, its origin is quite contentious. Graphical evidence of phở can be traced back to 1910, when Henri J. Oger, a colonial administrator, commissioned artisans and wood-carvers to document life in Hanoi and the countryside in Technique du Peuple Annamite (Mechanics and Crafts of the Vietnamese People), with two images of phở vendors included in the issue. The birthplace of phở was thought to originate in Van Cu, a rural village in Nam Dinh province, about 90 kilometers southeast of Hanoi in Northern Vietnam.
Contrary to popular belief, phở has no relation with the French pot-au-feu, the one-pot beef and vegetable stew, although feu and phở do sound similar. The common denominators that they share are slow-cooked beef, onion, and cloves. Vietnamese scholar and human rights activist Nguyen Ngoc Bich theorized that the initial idea for phở originated in China’s Yunnan Province where many Vietnamese nationalists fled during the French occupation at the end of the 19th century. Living near the Vietnamese-Chinese border, they may have learned to cook many local Chinese dishes, including a popular goat-meat noodle soup. After returning to northern Vietnam, it's possible they substituted beef for goat meat.
At the same time, the French’s love for steak led to an increased slaughtering of cows in Hanoi. Leftover bones and other beef scraps were salvaged by Hanoi butchers and sold to street soup vendors. Many Chinese vendors in Hanoi were selling a noodle soup called xáo trâu or ngưu nhục phấn, a popular dish with slices of water buffalo meat cooked in broth and rice vermicelli, and they began switching to beef. As street vendors hawked their soups around town, they called out “fen,” which means rice noodles in Cantonese. When Hanoians adopted this dish, they avoided calling it “fen” because it sounds like “phân,” or excrement in Vietnamese. They dropped the “n” and created phở.
The phở scene exploded in the city, with vendors roaming the street carrying two boxes slung at the two ends of a bamboo pole and pushcarts to hawk their specialities. By 1930, phở was added to the Vietnamese dictionary, defined as a dish of thinly sliced noodles and beef. Phở stands for both the noodle soup and the rice noodles themselves, bánh phở.
When I asked Andrea Nguyen, the food writer and James Beard Award winner of The Pho Cookbook about the origin of phở, she shared her take: “The creation of phở is all about cultures rubbing shoulders in a particular place at a particular time. The French didn’t introduce eating beef to Vietnam, they just happened to like eating a lot of beef. So the colonialists harvested a lot of cows. The noodle soup vendors, many of whom were Chinese, used the leftover cuts and bones to create a noodle soup that they were already kind of making out of water buffalo. So phở happened on Vietnamese soil by combining a lot of creative forces under a particular set of unique circumstances. Who knows when the first bowl of phở as we know it today was made or served.”
Phở made its way to Saigon following the fall of the French Indochina and the Geneva Accords in 1954 when Vietnam was divided in two and southern Vietnam experienced an influx of northerners escaping the communist takeover. Much to the horror of northern Vietnamese, southerners took the humble phở of the north and altered its flavor profile to fit their palate. The broth became much sweeter, and fancy cuts of beef and embellishments like fresh herbs, chile sauce, hoisin, bean sprouts, lime, and other add-ons were more frequent inclusions. Northern phở takes a minimalist approach with emphasis on the quality of the broth, leaning toward a savory profile from plenty of beef bones and meats. The broth tends to be balanced, served with rare beef slices, flat rice noodles, and garnishes consisting of sliced green scallion, mint, sliced chile and quẩy—fried dough sticks, or Chinese doughnuts.
Growing up near Saigon, all I ever knew was the southern version. Phở was not something people cooked at home because it was ubiquitous at street stalls and restaurants. With the humid weather and lack of refrigeration, the broth would spoil if not consumed within a day. After the fall of Saigon in 1975, phở made its way across the Pacific Ocean when the influx of Vietnamese refugees dispersed from the aftermath of the war. Missing their favorite bowl of beef noodle soup, they began cooking phở at home. Realizing the economic potential of this humble dish, they set up phở shops across America, Australia, and Europe, anywhere that Vietnamese enclaves congregated. The phở in America resembles the hearty southern version. On a typical restaurant menu, you might see more than twenty options for phở with different combinations of meats. My favorite bowl of phở Saigon contains beef shank, tendon, tripe, slices of rare beef round, and meatballs. Phở is deeply personal and all about customization, so use your favorite cuts of beef.
My Phở: How I Like to Make This RecipeFor a deeply flavored phở broth, I use a combination of beef neck bones, leg bones with marrow, and another cut of beef, usually shank or oxtail, simmered for hours, amalgamated harmoniously with charred ginger, onion, star anise, cloves, black cardamom, cinnamon, coriander seeds, and fennel seeds. Sea salt, rock sugar, and fish sauce are my go-to seasonings.
Regarding the building of flavor, Nguyen advises, “I season my phở broth during the cooking process with spices, salt, aromatics, a touch of sweetness, and sometimes dried seafood. The fish sauce and maybe MSG at the end produce an umami burst to send things over the top.” A good broth should be clear, slightly sweet from the bones with marrow that have been simmering for hours, and richness balanced by a harmonious yet nuanced note of spices.
Serious Eats / Vy TranEssential Tips for Making Phở BrothChoose Beef Bones and Meats ThoughtfullyThe bones and marrow form the foundation of phở broth. The basic phở broth can be made with the bare minimum of beef neck bones and leg bones with marrow, along with any other flavorful and gelatin-rich cuts like oxtail or knuckles. After you bring the whole pot to a boil, maintain the broth at a gentle simmer to draw out the flavors from the bones, marrow, and meat. For a flavorful stock, you need at least four hours of gentle simmering, but I find six hours even better. The longer the broth simmers, the more intense and robust the flavor will be. The longest that I have done is 8 hours when I’m doubling the recipe for a big gathering—the liquid in a bigger pot has less surface area relative to its volume, so evaporation, and thus flavor concentration, is slower.
Achieving a clear broth requires a few steps. Parboiling the bones briefly and rinsing them removes proteins and impurities that can otherwise cloud the broth. It's also important to keep an eye on your broth while it’s simmering, and frequently skim off the scum and foam that rises to the surface so that it doesn't get churned back into the broth. Finally, straining the broth with a fine-mesh sieve lined with muslin or cheesecloth removes additional solids at the end.
Build Layers of FlavorWhile the bones and marrow form the foundation of the broth, the aromatics, spices, and seasonings add character, complexity, and nuance to the broth. Key steps include:
- Charring the onion and ginger and toasting the spices: This brings out their flavor and fragrance and develops them.
- Skimming the fat: This should be done occasionally during simmering, but make sure not to remove all of it because the fat molecules help deliver the aroma of the spices.
- Adding salt and umami in stages: Start the broth with sea salt, then add fish sauce about 3 1/2 hours into cooking, as it tends to lose its flavor if added at the beginning.
- Adjusting for evaporation: Add 1/2 cup of water at a time if too much liquid has evaporated. Generally, the broth should cook at an almost imperceptible simmer; if it cooks more rapidly, more water will evaporate and the solids will begin to emerge from the broth, a telltale sign that you may need to top it up.
- Dialing in the seasoning: Towards the end of cooking, taste and adjust the seasoning using salt, fish sauce, sugar, and/or MSG (which of these you use is a matter of personal preference, but I tend to lean towards the extra umami of fish sauce compared to plain salt as a finishing seasoning). Aim for a broth a bit saltier than your liking because the noodles, meat, and garnishes will dilute its intensity.
Phở Saigon Ingredients: A Closer LookPhở Saigon Beef CutsSerious Eats / Vy Tran Beef neck bones (xương cổ): require long and slow cooking to tenderize the dense muscles. * Bone marrow (xương tủy): The long, straight femur bones contain the most marrow. They add flavor and sweetness to the broth. They are sold in both crosswise and lengthwise sections (or you can ask your butcher to cut the bones for you). Either works, but it can be nice to have the bones cut vertically for easier access to scoop out the marrow if you want to eat it. * Brisket (gầu): Brisket comes from the chest of the cow and has alternating layers of meat and fat, which enriches the broth. Brisket tends to be pricier than many other beef cuts. * Flank steak (nạm): This cut comes from the underside of the cow near the hind legs. It is a lean cut with very tough, striated muscles full of beefy flavor. Simmer the flank in the broth until tender but not falling apart, for at least an hour. * Shank (bắp bò): Beef shank comes from the front leg, which contains lean meat, muscle strands, and tendons surrounding a bone with marrow at the center. It needs to simmer for at least 3 hours for the meat to become tender. * Oxtail (đuôi bò): Oxtail is often sold in individual vertebrae with the bone, muscle, and cartilage attached. Both the bones and connective tissue enrich the broth with a deep flavor and velvety texture. They need to simmer for at least 3 hours for the meat to become tender. * Tendon (gân): Tendon is connective tissue that connects muscle to bone. It starts out extremely tough and chewy (you'd be too if you were trying to hold a cow together), but with a few hours of simmering that rubbery collagen melts into tender gelatin. The tendons sold at the butcher tend to be those running down the back of the shank. To serve, slice the tendon against the grain 1/4-inch thick. * Tripe (sách): Tripe is the edible lining of the cow’s stomach. While its flavor can be mild, it brings a nice textural contrast to your bowl of phở. Rinse the tripe well before cooking—most tripe sold today comes pre-cleaned, but this is one cut it never hurts to rinse again. Simmer it for one hour to make it just tender enough to slice through while maintaining its bounce. * Rare beef (bò tái): This can come from tenderloin, eye of round, or rib eye. For a fancier cut, try filet mignon or Wagyu. Ask your butcher for paper-thin cuts of your preferred beef. If slicing your own meat, freeze it for 30 minutes, then use a sharp knife to cut 1/8-inch slices. * Meatballs* (bò viên): Beef meatballs are made from shank and dotted with tendon. They come precooked and only need about 5 minutes in the broth to warm up. You can find them in the refrigerated section.
Phở SpicesSpices are important to getting phở's flavor right, so make sure they’re fresh and of good quality. Toast them in the pan to release their oils, and cook them whole in the broth. I use muslin cloth to make a small pouch for the smaller spices like star anise, cloves, fennel seeds, and coriander seeds so that they're easier to fish out later.
Serious Eats / Vy Tran Black cardamom (thảo quả đen): Black cardamom comes in pods that have a tough, dried, wrinkly skin. They have a pungent aroma with a citrus, menthol, and smokey flavor due to the way they are dried. Crush the pods slightly to reveal the seeds and bring flavor to the broth. Green cardamom cannot be substituted for black cardamom because they have different flavor profiles. * Cinnamon sticks or cassia bark (quế): These two spices are interchangeable when making phở, although they are quite different from one another. Cassia, also called “Chinese cinnamon,” is what most Americans have in the cinnamon jar in their spice racks, but it differs from true cinnamon. Cassia brings a sweet, aromatic, and pungent note compared to true cinnamon’s delicate flavor. Real cinnamon is known as Ceylon cinnamon. The sticks curl in an almost perfect circle, while cassia sticks curl inward from both sides, appearing like a scroll. Ceylon cinnamon has a delicate, nuanced flavor that works well in both sweet and savory recipes. * Cloves (dinh hương): Cloves lend a strong sweet-and-spicy note. * Coriander seeds (hạt ngò): Coriander seeds bring a lemony flavor and floral aroma to the broth. * Fennel seeds (tiểu hồi): Fennel seeds have a sweet and light licorice flavor. * Star anise (đại hồi)*: Star anise lends its strong, distinct flavor that is warm, sweet, and spicy to the broth.
The AromaticsThe goal of charring the onion, shallot, and ginger is to burn them a bit to release their fragrant, sweet juices and add a subtle hint of complex char, which enhances the flavor of the broth (just don't go too far, or you'll overwhelm the broth with a burnt flavor). In Vietnam, home cooks char the aromatics over an open flame; I do the same on my gas stove. If you don’t have a gas stove, you can use your grill, cast iron pan, or broil them in the oven.
Serious Eats / Vy Tran Ginger: Smash fresh ginger to release its oils before charring. Avoid adding more ginger than what the recipe states or the spicy note will overwhelm the rest of the spices. * Onion/shallo*t: Use either onion or shallot. Quarter the larger onions and halve the smaller ones. Shallots are pricier, so I lean toward onion. Don’t overdo the onions, as I and others have found they can sour a broth when used in too-high quantities, although the effect won’t always emerge until two to three days after cooking the broth.
The Seasonings Salt: Salt is the broth's seasoning foundation. It augments flavor, lessens bitter elements, and enhances sweetness. I use sea salt and add it at the beginning. Depending on your favorite brand, the saltiness might vary. * Fish sauce: Similar to salt, fish sauce adds not only saltiness but a generous dose of umami and a subtle savory depth to the broth. Fish sauce comes in different grades; make sure to pick a good-quality brand like Flying Lion Fish, Three Crabs, and Red Boat. * Rock sugar: Sugar is used in phở as the main sweetener. Look for yellow rock sugar, not white. The yellow rock sugars bring a subtle sweetness whereas the white rock sugars taste similar to granulated sugar and can be cloyingly sweet. Some home cooks use daikon or apples instead of the rock sugar to sweeten their broth. If you want to experiment, add a pound of daikon or two small Fuji apples to the broth (I'm not a huge fan of the daikon, though, as its sweetness is very mild but its turnip-like daikon flavor is not). * MSG:* The use of monosodium glutamate is contentious among home cooks and phở masters. It is a flavor enhancer, which brings that umami boost that Nguyen values so much. Many phở restaurants use MSG because it’s a cheap ingredient to flavor the broth. There's not necessarily anything inherently wrong with MSG, but I prefer to build umami with more complex ingredients, including fish sauce, quality beef bones, and the marrow itself. If you want to experiment, though, start with 1/2 teaspoon of MSG, and taste the broth before adding any more.
The Noodles (Bánh Phở)Three types of phở noodles exist: fresh, semi-fresh, and dried. Fresh bánh phở is not widely available, generally costs more, and requires refrigeration. Dry bánh phở is widely available, inexpensive, and can be stored at room temperature for a very long time, but it takes much longer to cook (about seven to ten minutes, depending on the brand and size). My go-to is semi-fresh bánh phở that you can find in the refrigerated noodle section at the Asian grocery stores. They only need about 30 seconds of blanching in boiling water. Avoid overcooking; otherwise, you risk getting mushy noodles from the residual heat of the broth.
Serious Eats / Vy TranThe GarnishesVietnamese cuisine emphasizes fresh herbs, and phở is no exception.
- Thai basil (húng quế): Thai basil is synonymous with phở. It has a distinctive liquorice or sweet anise note that adds a complex flavor to your phở.
- Sawtooth herb (ngò gai): Also known as Mexican cilantro or culantro, sawtooth is a small, compact herb consisting of long and serrated, lanceolate leaves arranged in a rosette pattern around a central stem. They have intense herbal, citrusy, and grassy notes well suited for phở.
- Mint (húng lủi): Also known as spearmint, this is a common herb that northern Vietnamese use to garnish their phở. It is not as popular as Thai basil or sawtooth herb.
- Cilantro (ngò) is an essential garnish for phở, bringing a bright flavor.
- Bean sprouts (giá): Bean sprouts served alongside phở come from sprouted mung beans. In a restaurant, you can order them raw or lightly cooked. Their crunch adds another layer of texture.
- Bird’s eye chile (ớt): The heat factor from bird’s eye chile is quite high depending on the variety you use. Most American phở restaurants serve sliced jalapeño instead of bird’s eye chile.
Serious Eats / Vy TranHow to Assemble and Eat a Bowl of PhởArrange the cooked noodles in the bowl, then layer with different types of meat. Top with cilantro, scallion, and thinly sliced onion before gently ladling the broth over the ingredients without disturbing them.
Everyone enjoys their phở differently. When my bowl of phở comes to the table, I like to taste the broth first and appreciate its delicateness, experiencing the different notes from the spices and aromatics. Soon after, I tear the Thai basil and sawtooth herbs into small pieces and drop them directly into my bowl, along with the lightly blanched bean sprouts, and give it a quick stir. Then I fill my spoon with some noodles, meat, and herbs, and a bit of broth, and enjoy everything in one bite.
With everyone’s taste being different, fish sauce, hoisin sauce, and sriracha are often served alongside, meant to enhance the broth by adding just a touch. I advise using those condiments with caution. While there's no right or wrong way, I don't really understand why one would invest so much time creating a complex yet delicate broth and then overpowering it with generous doses of hoisin and sriracha. Instead, I like to keep the condiments separate from my broth and have a small plate where I mix the hoisin sauce, sriracha, and a squeeze of lime juice to dip the meat in. If a broth strikes me as bland, I might stir in just a drop of hoisin to it, but that's about it.
Serious Eats / Vy TranOver the years, phở has experienced a tsunami of popularity and international fame. For many Vietnamese from the diaspora, phở is more than nostalgia, a comfort food, and reminder of home. Nguyen’s words perfectly capture this sentiment: “Phở has a beautiful history and reflects the experience of the Vietnamese people in the 21st century. We’re talking not just cooking technique and flavor, but also the colonial, war time, and diaspora experience. Phở is modern Vietnam bundled up in a bowl of rice noodle soup and the flat rice noodles themselves.”
Now that you know the ins and outs of homemade phở, be ready for a pho-nomenal bowl of your own.
For the Soup: Using a broiler with the oven rack in the highest position, in a dry cast iron skillet over high heat, or over an open medium gas flame, char onion and ginger, using tongs to rotate for even charring, until softened and lightly blackened, about 10-12 minutes. Allow to cool, then peel the ginger and discard any heavily blackened parts and set aside.
Serious Eats / Vy TranIn a medium cast iron or stainless steel skillet, toast cloves, star anise, cardamom, cinnamon, coriander seeds, and fennel seeds over medium-low heat until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Let cool, then wrap cloves, star anise, coriander seeds, and fennel seeds in muslin and tie off with kitchen twine.
Serious Eats / Vy TranWash all bones, shanks, tendons, and tripe thoroughly in water. Transfer beef leg and neck bones to a stockpot and add just enough water to cover. Bring to a boil over high hea, then let boil vigorously for 5 minutes to release foamy impurities.
Serious Eats / Vy TranPour off water, then rinse bones to remove any remaining impurities. Wash stockpot thoroughly.
Serious Eats / Vy TranReturn bones to stockpot along with shank and tendons to stockpot. Add cinnamon sticks, cardamom pods, spice pouch, charred onion and ginger, salt, rock sugar, and 4 1/2 quarts (4.3L) water. Bring to a boil over high heat and skim off scum. Reduce heat to low and let simmer gently, uncovered, frequently skimming any scum and fat that floats to surface, for 3 hours.
Serious Eats / Vy TranAdd tripe and simmer for 30 minutes. Add fish sauce and continue to simmer for 30 minutes longer.
Serious Eats / Vy TranRemove shank, tendon, and tripe and shock them in a bowl filled with ice water to retain their texture. Drain and set aside.
Serious Eats / Vy TranRemove broth from heat, then remove neck bones and bones with marrow and reserve for another use (I recommend eating it later as a snack). Let broth stand for 10 minutes to settle any sediment, then carefully strain broth through a mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth or muslin, being careful not to pour sediment through; you should have about 12 cups (2.8L) broth.
Serious Eats / Vy TranReturn broth to a large clean pot, then taste and season with additional fish sauce and rock sugar to your liking. Set aside until ready to serve.
Serious Eats / Vy TranTo Assemble and Serve: Slice shank, tendon, and tripe crosswise against the grain into thin slices. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Vy TranArrange Thai basil, sawtooth herbs, bean sprouts, jalapeño slices, and lime wedges on a large plate.
Serious Eats / Vy TranPlace sliced onion, scallion, and cilantro in separate bowls.
Serious Eats / Vy TranCook noodles according to package instructions. Strain and rinse noodles with cold water.
Serious Eats / Vy TranFor each serving, place about 4 ounces (115g) noodles in each bowl. Top with a few pieces of sliced shank, tendon, tripe, meatballs, and raw beef round. Garnish with sliced onion, scallion, and cilantro. Ladle about 1 1/2 cups hot broth into bowls and sprinkle with freshly ground pepper. Serve immediately with garnishes.
Serious Eats / Vy TranSpecial EquipmentFine mesh sieve, muslin cloth, kitchen twine
NotesIf you plan on doubling the recipe, simmer for 8 hours.
To blanch the mung bean sprouts, bring a pot of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the bean sprouts and blanch them for 45 seconds.
Vietnamese meatballs can be found in the refrigerated section at the Asian grocery stores. Freeze leftover meatballs and defrost them in the fridge before cooking.
It is very difficult to slice beef so thinly at home; your best bet is to ask the butcher to do it for you, or to shop at an Asian grocer where you can find pre-sliced beef. If you do want to try slicing it yourself, freeze the beef until partially frozen (not rock-hard, but quite firm), then slice as thinly as possible with a very sharp slicing knife.
Make-Ahead and StorageRefrigerate unused broth and cooked meat separately in lidded containers for up to three days. To freeze unused stock, divide in portions in zipper-lock bags. Lay flat on a baking sheet to freeze. They can be frozen for up to 3 months. When ready to use, thaw them in the fridge overnight. Reheat the broth and re-season to taste.
Casseroles are synonymous with comfort and warmth. They work well for a number of occasions, whether you're welcoming a new neighbor, feeding a grieving relative, or just need to whip something up for dinner in a pinch. And when it comes to casseroles, sometimes the more veggies, the better. Below are some of our favorite vegetable casserole and casserole-like dishes, from a classic green bean option to both Italian and all-American eggplant parmesan recipes.
Vegan Green Bean CasseroleKristin DonnellyThe classic green bean casserole gets veganized in this recipe, in which a silky cauliflower purée stands in for the creamy base of the typical mushroom soup.
Provençal Tian (Eggplant, Zucchini, Squash, and Tomato Casserole)Daniel GritzerThis cousin of ratatouille concentrates the flavors of late summer produce.
Sweet and Savory Corn CasseroleVicky WasikCorn casserole is simple, hearty, and comforting; the kind of unpretentious dish that can round out any meal.
Sweet Potato Casserole With MarshmallowsVicky WasikCut down on the "sweet" in sweet potato casserole by incorporating spicy grated ginger, nutty brown butter, and woodsy herbs.
The Ultimate Homemade Green Bean CasserolePhotograph: Vicky Wasik. Video: Natalie HoltThe classic green bean casserole, but upgraded, with fresh beans, freshly fried onions, and a homemade mushroom sauce.
Hasselback Potato GratinDiana ChistrugaAll the creamy decadence of a classic potato gratin but with more crispy edges.
French Onion Strata (Savory Bread Pudding)Emily and Matt CliftonThe flavors of French onion soup get repackaged into a hearty, cheesy strata (a.k.a. savory bread pudding) in this filling breakfast, lunch, or dinner.
Vegan Lasagna alla BologneseThe secret to imitating a beefy ragù and a creamy béchamel is all about layering flavors and textures.
Melanzane alla Parmigiana (Italian-Style Eggplant Parmesan)Photographs: Vicky Wasik. Video: Natalie HoltThis dish features unfussy, richly-flavored layers of sweet fried eggplant, tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, and herbs—no bread crumbs at this party.
All-American Eggplant ParmesanSerious Eats / Qi AiHere, perfectly fried eggplant is layered with tomato sauce, mozzarella, and parmesan.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor those who enjoy a mixed drink regularly, or entertain frequently, a cocktail making machine can be a time saver. Like a Keurig, but for cosmos instead of coffee, both the Bev and Bartesian use Bartesian-produced capsules that contain the syrups, bitters, extracts, and juices required to make mixed drinks. Those, combined with the spirits you load into the machine, enable users to produce a cocktail in about 30 seconds with the press of a few buttons.
A Brief History of Cocktail MachinesAfter a successful round of crowdfunding, Bartesian launched in 2019 with capsules and the cocktail machine before turning manufacturing over to Hamilton Beach, which makes the machines today. A few years later, Black + Decker released Bev, which uses the same Bartesian pods. Like a Keurig, using one of these machines requires buying Bartesian capsules. To date, the brand offers about 50 different cocktails that pull from five base spirits: vodka, gin, rum, tequila, and whiskey. Depending on what cocktails you prefer, you might only need one or two spirits on hand. But to realize the full variety, plan to have a bottle of all five liquors ready.
A Bit About the CapsulesSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe capsules are sold in packs of six, eight, or 32 and can either contain the same cocktail or, in some cases, come in a variety pack like the Vodka Lovers box with amaretto sour, cosmopolitan, and lemon drop. The recyclable plastic capsules each contain about one-and-a-half fluid ounces of cocktail mix-ins, but no alcohol. You can buy the capsules online from Bartesian, or stores like Amazon, Kohl’s, Walmart, Best Buy, Target, Bed Bath & Beyond, and Macy’s.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe price per capsule ranges from about $2.25 to $3.33. When you add that to the cost of the spirits, you quickly realize you’re paying for the convenience of a drink in less than 30 seconds. I found it difficult to locate any capsules in brick-and-mortar stores, so if you plan on entertaining, you should stock up in advance.
How Cocktail Machines WorkSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Bartesian and Bev are very similar machines that rely on barcodes and pumps to identify and properly mix a cocktail. Each capsule has a barcode printed on the foil top. Once you load a pod in and lower the head, the scanner reads the barcode and identifies the cocktail. A hollow, stainless steel needle pierces the capsule’s foil top, and then pumps kick on to inject the appropriate spirit(s) and water inside the pod through the needle. After the spirits and mix-ins all blend together for a few seconds, the pump pushes the cocktail into your waiting glass. Along with five base spirits, both machines require water which dilutes the concentrated juices, bitters, and syrups inside the capsules. Technically, you don’t need all five base spirits loaded into the machine. If all you want to do is make old fashioneds all night long, you would only need to load in whiskey (or bourbon or rye) and water.
Every cocktail is available in four strengths, including mocktail. The total amount of liquor used for light, regular, and strong cocktails varies, so a margarita set to strong would have about three-and-a-half ounces of liquor whereas a strong Long Island iced tea would have just over four-and-a-half ounces. Generally speaking, a light cocktail uses one to just over two ounces of spirits; regular uses one to three ounces; strong uses two-and-a-half to just over four-and-a-half ounces. The volume of spirits called for per setting is listed on the capsule’s box. While stronger drinks take a little more time to make than weaker ones, the difference is about five seconds of waiting. The longest either machine took during testing to make a cocktail was about 30 seconds.
How to Make a DrinkSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile the technology required to make the drink is pretty similar between the two machines, there are several ways in which they differ. The Bartesian has a color LCD screen that acts as a button that, along with a rotating wheel, lets you cycle through options. The screenless Bev has a simple rotating dial button to make drink strength selections. Both work well, but the Bartesian’s screen does a little more hand-holding, like telling you what glass style to use or, when appropriate, to make the drink in a shaker, like with a cosmo or uptown rocks. The Bartesian uses pumps to pull water from underneath the glass jars that hold the spirits, while the Bev pulls from above. In testing both worked just fine, though Bartesian does leave an annoying little pool of liquor in the base of the four openings.
About Adding SpiritsSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezA key difference between the two models is how many spirits they hold simultaneously. For the system to work smoothly, in both machines, each liquor type must be loaded into its designated areas. As clever as these machines are, they rely on you putting the rum in the right spot because they can’t distinguish Bacardi from Bulleit. The Bev has spaces for all five base spirits, and water, so you can make any of the 50 cocktails without much fuss. The Bartesian only holds four spirits at any time (plus water). Rum and gin have to share the same spot on the base. That makes the device less user-friendly because it requires switching between the two bottles, which means cycling through the menu and purging the line with water and air to avoid cross-contamination.
But beyond having to swap bottles to go from a rum-based mai tai to a gin martini, it’s a limitation on both machines. The Bartesian capsules can’t adhere to traditional cocktail recipes that typically require both rum and gin, like a Long Island iced tea and a gin rummy. And because the software is the same with both machines, the Bev, which technically could make a drink with both gin and rum, also skips out on sticking to a traditional recipe. So while Bartesian offers a capsule for Long Island iced tea, it makes the drink without gin. Though, to be fair, making that drink by hand with four spirits can be a pain anyway.
But the Bev can have its own spirit loading issues, too. The stock Bev machine ships with one glass bottle meant to hold water. Because the machine works with just about any standard 750ml bottle of liquor, you can unscrew the cap on some Tito’s, thread the Bev’s stainless steel straw inside, slide the rubber stopper down on the glass, and load the bottle into the machine. While some guests might like to see what brand of spirits you’re using, I think it’s a nicer aesthetic upgrade to buy the five-pack of matching glass bottles Black + Decker offers.
Beyond the uniformity, there’s a practical reason. Part of cleaning the machines means flushing the lines for each spirit. I found that task much easier using the Bev’s additional bottles. After I returned the unused spirits back to their bottles, I added warm, soapy water to each Bev bottle and flushed the lines with the push of a button. Without those additional bottles, you’d have to move the one glass bottle from tap-to-tap, cleaning the lines one at a time.
Testing Results: Bev vs. BartesianSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpeedBoth machines make even the largest, strongest drink in far less than a minute. Expect to wait about 17 seconds for a light drink, 18 seconds for a regular strength drink, and about 23 seconds for a strong version. Head-to-head, the Bartesian made a 4-ounce old fashioned in about 18 seconds while it took me twice as long so do so by hand.
VolumeVolumes vary from cocktail-to-cocktail since each one calls for a different amount of liquor. On the light and regular strength settings, the two machines made similar size drinks with the Bartesian pouring less than a half ounce more. Expect about three ounces on the light setting, and four ounces on medium. But on the strongest setting the difference can be about 1-ounce between the two. In my tests, a Long Island iced tea set to strong on the Bartesian was eight ounces, while it was only seven ounces on the Bev. And the machines kept the same 1-ounce discrepancy when making strong old fashioneds.
Taste TestGenerally, the Bartesian created a more balanced cocktail while the Bev produced a stronger one, because it adds less water. On simpler drinks, like an old fashioned, the results from both machines fell short compared to the one I made by hand, which tasted fresher, sweeter, and was more fragrant. Machine-made margaritas were slightly better, though not as good as a hand-shaken one. For other drinks, like a whiskey sour, both machines made overly sweet cocktails that couldn’t match the texture of the egg white used when made by hand. And for cocktails that called for special syrups, like the orgeat syrup needed to make a mai tai, the machines fell flat against the one made by hand. When drinks relied heavily on syrups or bitters, adding them by hand ensured that the flavor shined through, where those elements tended to get washed out of the machine version.
Still, there were few cocktails I’d say were undrinkable. Just like using a Keurig, these cocktail machines deliver unrivaled convenience, and for that, you sometimes sacrifice flavor.
The BevWith a lower initial cost, the Bev, even after the glass liquor dispenser bottles, is still about $100 less than the Bartesian and it stores all five base spirits simultaneously. At about 15 3/4 inches tall the Bev is slightly larger than the Bartesian, but still short enough to slip under upper cabinets in most newer kitchens where the cabinets are usually around 16 to 18 inches above the countertop. And because the spirit bottles, and water, load in from the sides, you keep the the Bev tucked under the cabinet.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile the speed at which it makes cocktails was similar to the Bartesian, the most interesting departure of the Bev was the volume. In test after test, where I tasked both machines to make the same cocktail at the same strength, then weighed and checked the volume of the results, the Bev consistently made less cocktail. In some instances the difference was minuscule—about 3 grams less when making an old fashioned on light and then 14 grams on medium, which is less than half a fluid ounce. But when set to the strongest setting, the Bev came up as much as one ounce short against the Bartesian when making a Long Island iced tea and old fashioned.
Since both machines are programmed to use set liquor amounts, the difference between the drinks must be the amount of water added. The Bev consistently adds less water, or put another way, it makes a more potent cocktail. I think this makes the machine more useful for guests to then adjust the drink dilution as they see fit by stirring or shaking with more ice, or adding some water. While the Bartesian usually turned out a more balanced cocktail, the Bev was boozier.
The interface to make a drink is easy to navigate: load in a pod, rotate the dial to the strength setting you like, then press mix. Under each bottle is an LED light that you can turn on or off to add a decorative effect.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile the accessory pack of glass bottles makes it easier to flush the lines, the ribbed glass makes it difficult to gauge how much liquor is left, especially clear ones like vodka and gin. Because the Bartesian’s bottles have a wider opening, it’s easier to load them with spirits and clean them with soap and water later—and the smooth sides make it a snap to see how much liquor is left.
Whether you use the accessory bottles or liquor bottles, loading the spirits in requires adding a straw to each of the taps. While it’s a simple process, I wish there was a positive click letting you know the connection is solid. A couple of times during testing the Bev stopped, mid-pour, even when there was plenty of spirits left in the bottle.
Key Specs Materials: Plastic, metal, and glass * Weight: 16 pounds * Size: 14 inches deep x 13 1/4 inches wide x 15 3/4 inches tall * Care instructions: Clean straws with warm, soapy water and the included straw cleaner brush or clean in top rack of the dishwasher with stoppers, capsule cup, and drip tray cover. Glass bottles are dishwasher-safe. Wipe the machine, including the bar code scanner, down with a cloth damped with warm, soapy water. * Price at the time of publish:* $300
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe BartesianIf you can look past the fact the Bartesian requires a bit more hands-on work to switch gin and rum bottles, the machine produces a well-balanced cocktail. The Bartesian does best in wide-open spaces. Loading in a capsule requires lifting a latch that brings the overall height of the machine to about 18 1/2 inches, which is too tall to tuck under standard kitchen upper cabinets. You also need more room above the machine to load and switch the spirit bottles and water reservoir in the back. Still, the styling of the Bartesian with its four glass bottles, rubber bar mat, and hidden water tank, looks modern and it feels like a premium machine.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe LCD screens provides clear directions for using the machine, though you might have to remind guests that accessing the menu requires a click, hold, and then turn of the directional wheel. Oddly enough, if you follow the directions on the screen you can end up waiting necessarily long for a cocktail. Once a drink starts a progress wheel turns clockwise showing the progress. But while it only takes 17 to 22 seconds to make a drink, the progress wheel doesn’t complete the circle until about 1-minute total. In that time the machine is purging the lines with air and forcing every last drop into your cup. It’s an odd glitch, and while a few drops might end up on the rubber mat if you pull your cup after the drips stop, washing that at the end of the party is a small price to pay for a cocktail in half the time.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Bartesian has a keyed lock on the side, which means the bottles are not removable. It’s a handy feature to have with kids around since the bottles are, otherwise, easy to remove (you will need to hide the capsules). Both machines make it easy to know which spirit goes where with markings for vodka, tequila, whiskey, etc. marked on the base. But the Bartesian’s bottle tops also spell out the spirit’s name. If you get distracted while loading the machine those markings make it easy to distinguish clear gin, vodka, tequila, and rum apart. Otherwise, both machines will happily make you a hurricane using Beefeater.
Key Specs Materials: Plastic, metal, and glass * Weight: 16 pounds * Size: 12 1/2 inches deep x 13 inches wide x 18 1/2 inches tall (when open) * Care instructions: Wash the bar mat, capsule holder, water reservoir, and glass bottles in hot soapy water. Wipe the machine, including the bar code scanner, down with a cloth damped with warm water and mild soap. To sanitize the machine add water and sanitizing solution to each glass bottle and water reservoir and run through rinse mode, dispense the cleaner, and repeat this process four more times. * Price at the time of publish:* $449
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Bottom LineBoth of these cocktail-making machines produce acceptable drinks much faster than you can by hand and with less work—though you should still plan to add garnishes and to adjust the dilution to taste with water or extra mixing with ice. The Bev makes a more concentrated, albeit smaller, cocktail that can be easier to adjust to taste since it has less water in it. The Bartesian offers a more balanced flavor drink-to-drink, though it can be fussier to use if you want both rum- and gin-based drinks.
FAQsSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhat’s the best cocktail machine?If you’re looking to outsource your bartending needs, we recommend both of the models we tested for this review. The Bev is less expensive and might have an easier time fitting in under kitchen cabinets. The Bartesian looks sleeker and has a screen to help walk you through the cocktail-making process.
Is a cocktail machine worth it?If you entertain frequently or enjoy cocktails during the week, it can be, but the machines are expensive and with capsules starting at about $2.25 each, you pay for the convenience. But if you prefer simple cocktails—like an old fashioned— these machines can be overkill.
Can I use other spirits with a cocktail machine?Not really. While technically you can load any liquid into the machine, Bartesian designs the capsules to work with the five base spirits. If you want to use brandy or wine, the resulting drink likely won’t be that tasty.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez“You haven't really cooked if you’ve never cooked with curry leaves,” says Barkha Cardoz, founder of Cardoz Legacy, an organization where she engages in culinary-centered projects in honor of her late husband, Floyd Cardoz. And no, she’s not referring to those curry powders made up of different spices that foreigners tend to associate with Indian cuisine.
Curry leaves are a beauty unto themselves, full of oils that add a citrusy flavor when used in cooking. The ingredient is most notably a South Asian one, and is found especially in South Indian, Sri Lankan, Malaysian, Bangladeshi, and Pakistani dishes. It’s quite unique in flavor, and it can be used fresh or dry, ground or whole, often bloomed in oil to release its aroma and flavorful oils.
To find out more about curry leaves, including its origins, how to shop for them, and how they’re used, we spoke to Cardoz and Anand Prasad, founder of Prasad’s Curry Leaf, a curry leaf farm in Los Angeles that Prasad started with seeds he and his family carried from India, for some guidance.
What Are Curry Leaves?Curry leaves come from the Murraya koenigii plant, which is native to the Indian subcontinent and Sri Lanka. Belonging to the same family as citrus and rue, the tree grows in tropical climates to about 20 feet tall. Literature dating back to the 1st century A.D. references the use of curry leaves to flavor vegetables. They’ve also been used in Ayurvedic medicine for centuries to aid symptoms of everything from diabetes to high cholesterol.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAside from its citrusy notes, the flavor of curry leaves is hard to pinpoint. It’s often described as having the flavor of the spice asafoetida, and can be slightly bitter and pungent. It contains the compounds pinene, which is present as an aroma molecule in eucalyptus and orange, plus marijuana; sabinene, which is found in marjoram, black pepper, nutmeg; and caryophyllene, found in black pepper, cloves, cinnamon, all of which give it a complex flavor with herbal, floral, woodsy, and citrusy notes.
How to Buy and Store Curry LeavesThere is nothing quite like the flavor and aroma you’ll get from fresh curry leaves, but they can be harder to come by than dried ones. You can usually find fresh ones at South Asian grocery stores like Patel Brothers, as well as online from places like Kalustyan’s.
When shopping for fresh leaves, Cardoz recommends looking for small leaves, which are younger and more tender. She preps them by first removing them from the base of their tough central stem, which doesn’t hold much flavor, and wiping—not washing—them clean, then puts them in a zipper-lock bag before storing in the fridge for at least two weeks or the freezer for up to two months.
Dried curry leaves are hardly a concession, however. “Nothing can be beat by fresh curry leaves,” says Prasad. Their flavor and aroma is much stronger than the dried leaves. Even when seeking dried, though, Cardoz recommends starting with fresh if at all possible and drying them yourself, which will give you more flavor mileage than buying dried leaves of an unknown age. You dry the leaves in the sun or in a dehydrator, then transfer them to zipper-lock bags with a silica gel desiccant packet to ensure they don't grow moldy.
Ground curry leaves are also fairly popular on the market. Prasad has a version in collaboration with Burlap & Barrel, but you can also find ground curry leaves at most international spice markets.
How to Cook With Curry Leaves“I can’t remember anything I make without curry leaves,” says Cardoz. It’s commonly used in tadka, a process in which spices are bloomed in hot oil or ghee and then used as a finisher on top of dishes like dal. Prasad echoes the same statement about the importance of curry leaves in Indian cuisine, noting, “If I go into the kitchen and there are no curry leaves, how is there going to be a tadka?”
“It's something that you put in for the aroma, for texture, for crunch,” says Cardoz. “It just adds so much flavor.” While some prefer to take the curry leaves out of a dish before serving, similar to when cooking with bay leaves, Cardoz is among the folks who look forward to eating it.
“My kids will pull it out,” she says. “I say ‘give it to me, I’ll eat it.’” She also likes to fry the leaves separately until crispy to add a crunchy topping to whatever she’s serving.
While curry leaves are often used in tadka as a finishing flavor and aroma addition to dishes, they can also be cooked into a recipe as a base aromatic ingredient. Even then, they’re best bloomed in oil first. Ground curry leaves can also be used in the same way. Cardoz mentioned that when she makes a dish like peas and potatoes in a tomato sauce, for example, she’ll start by blooming one or two leaves in the oil before adding her onions, garlic, ginger, and any other aromatic ingredients. She lets the curry leaves sit in the sauce as it simmers so they can further release their flavors.
“They're 99 cents at an Indian grocery store,” says Cardoz. “Just add them to whatever you're cooking to try it out and see—you'll be amazed.” For 99 cents, it’s hard to argue with that logic.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreAh, April—it brings with it showers, warmer temperatures, and a day for jokes. But what isn’t a belated April Fools hoax is a list of our favorite sales this week. They are real and they are great.
Why not start out the fourth month of the year by getting a great deal on one of our favorite air fryers? Or by snagging a new All-Clad saucepan for significantly less? Or maybe you have the foresight to grab a juicer for upcoming summer produce—good for you!
Here are some excellent kitchen-related sales this week—featuring products that have won our equipment reviews.
Philips Premium Digital Air Fryer Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreTo buy: Philips Premium Digital Air Fryer was $250, now $166 at amazon.com
Why we love it: With its smaller basket and stated 3-quart capacity, this air fryer is a great choice for crisping up a couple of servings of food. We loved its mix of digital and analog controls, including an easy-to-use knob that makes toggling the temperature and time a cinch. In our tests, it cooked food well and we appreciated its thoughtful features like built-in cord storage. And for all you history buffs, Philips actually invented the air fryer.
Good to Know Temperature range: 100℉ to 400℉ * Time range: 1 to 60 minutes * Settings: Air fry, bake, grill, roast, reheat, dehydrate, and toast * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe removable parts
All-Clad D3 3-Py Stainless Steel Saucepan with LidSerious Eats / Russell KilgoreTo buy: All-Clad D3 3-Ply Stainless Steel Saucepan with Lid was $180, now $120 at amazon.com
Why we love it: There’s a reason we’ve recommended (and used—at home in and in our test kitchen) All-Clad stainless steel cookware for years: it works incredibly well and is long-lasting. We recently tested saucepans and named the D3 one of our favorite models. It was heat-responsive and easy to clean, and came with a lid. We liked its handle, which has an indent that runs along its length and prevented it from rolling in our palm as we poured. Plus, it’s backed by All-Clad’s lifetime warranty—making the saucepan hard to beat, especially at 33% off.
Good to Know Stated capacity: 3 quarts * Weight: 3 pounds, 10 1/8 ounces with lid; 2 pounds, 13 5/8 ounces without lid * Induction compatible:* Yes
Tramontina 12-Inch Stainless Steel SkilletSerious Eats / Vicky WasikTo buy: Tramontina 12-Inch Stainless Steel Skillet was $70, now $50 at amazon.com
Why we love it: As our budget-friendly stainless steel skillet recommendation, the Tramontina offers solid performance at a very reasonable price point. It heats evenly and responds to temperature changes well and is induction compatible. Plus, the skillet has a lifetime warranty. There’s a reason we recommend Tramontina stainless steel cookware often: it just works and doesn’t cost a whole lot.
Good to Know Oven-safe temperature: Up to 500°F * Induction compatible:* Yes
Omega Vertical Square Low-Speed JuicerSerious Eats / Karon LiuTo buy: Omega Vertical Square Low-Speed Juicer was $450, now $320 at amazon.com
Why we love it: Our favorite juicer is very rarely on sale—and we mean that. During our tests, it blew us away: it consistently made the most juice out of any model and left the smallest amount of pulp. It also had the smoothest-tasting juice of the bunch. Plus, it was easy to clean (rare for a juicer!), allowing you to pour water down its chute and run it to clean its internal parts. Its non-electric parts can be thrown in the dishwasher, too.
Good to Know Weight: 11.5 pounds * Warranty: 15 years * Care instructions:* Non-electric parts are dishwasher-safe
Breville Smart OvenSerious Eats / Will DickeyTo buy: Breville Smart Oven was $270, now $216 at amazon.com
Why we love it: Our favorite toaster oven is on sale through April 10th (as are some other Breville toaster ovens!). It can toast, roast, bake, broil—and do it all accurately. It has a mix of digital and analog controls (we’re fans of its big, bright digital screen). It even shuts off when its timer hits zero, which is a nice safety feature. “It's become my go-to oven for almost anything I can fit in it, which is a fair amount given its generous size,” says senior culinary director Daniel Gritzer.
Good to Know Temperature range: 120°F to 450°F * Preset functions: Toast, bagel, bake, roast, broil, pizza, cookies, reheat, and warm * Warranty:* 1-year limited
Cuisinart 4-Slice Compact Plastic ToasterSerious Eats / Taylor MurrayTo buy: Cuisinart 4-Slice Compact Plastic Toaster was $90, Now $50 at amazon.com
Why we love it: While this toaster isn't the cutest of them all, it works exceptionally well. In our tests, it toasted evenly and according to its darkness settings and “handled frozen items like a dream, fully defrosting each before toasting to the correct shade.” It’s a 4-slice model, too, which is particularly helpful for two-to four-person households. We also appreciated its slide-out crumb tray and plastic exterior, both of which were easy to clean. And did we mention it’s 45% off at the moment?
Good to Know Weight: 4.5 lbs * Capacity: 4 slices * Dimensions:* 10.8 x 10.7 x 7.2 inches
FAQsWhat are the best kitchen-related sales right now? Above, we rounded up some of our favorite kitchen-related sales—including our favorite air fryer and stainless steel saucepan and skillet. You may also want to check out these sales on Breville toaster ovens, which are discounted through April 10th.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubCoffee mug preferences are very personal. Style, sentimental value, and routine all play a part in selecting a favorite. At the same time, coffee is a complex sensory experience: there are more than 800 identified flavor and aroma compounds in brewed coffee, and the vessel we drink from can have an impact on how these are conveyed. The thinness of the lip, material, size, and shape can all affect your sensory perception of coffee, but we also want a mug that is comfortable to hold and looks stylish—one that even makes black, drip coffee stand out.
It also might be time to ditch your old, oversized mug. Giant mugs keep coffee too hot due to their large thermal mass when full, but as soon as the volume drops below the halfway mark, the coffee cools off too quickly and becomes sour (coffee tastes best around 130ºF when your palate can detect more subtlety and sweetness). We built a list of our favorite, reasonably-sized (6- to 14-ounce) coffee mugs that will improve the flavor of your coffee while still remaining stylish, comfortable, and easy to drink from.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Coffee MugSerious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmThere are a number of specific details that can impact both the sensory experience and comfort of a coffee mug, so we wanted to break those down individually:
- Lip thickness: A thin lip is easier to sip from without dribbling, but it also allows you to slurp the same way a wine glass does to take in more of the aroma of your brew.
- Opening width: A wider opening will allow your nose to take in more aroma, but will also lose heat faster. Narrower cups create more thermal mass, but also might block your nose.
- Size: Our sensory receptors detect more nuance in coffee from 120-140ºF, and smaller mugs help coffee cool to drinking temperature quicker while allowing you to finish your mug before it becomes cold and sour.
- Base/wall thickness: Adding mass in the walls or the base of the mug will add more thermal insulation, which can help keep coffee hotter even as the volume drops.
- Material: Ceramic and porcelain are better heat conductors and add insulation while glass helps coffee cool quicker for people who are eager to sip.
- Handle shape: Round handles can rotate and slip, but handles with a flat top give your thumb a better leverage point and are more comfortable to hold.
- Handleless options: Sometimes a handleless cup can feel more natural to pick up than those with a handle, and they tend to be more stylish and sleek.
- Cup & saucer: A well-designed saucer allows your thumb to pinch the lip easily, making it easy to carry your coffee from room to room (and catching any spills if you stumble).
- Double-duty: Though some of the mugs below were originally intended for espresso drinks, we included them because they're also favorites of coffee pros for brewed coffee. These multi-talented options include the Felt+Fat 8oz Cappuccino Cup, d’Ancap 6.1oz Verona Cappuccino Cup and Saucer, Fellow 11oz Monty Double Wall Ceramic Cup, and notNeutral 6oz Vero Glass.
Updated Classic Mugs: Thin Lips, Flat Handles, and Straight SidesWorking with baristas at Intelligentsia Coffee, notNeutral designed their Lino series specifically with specialty coffee in mind. With a flat handle for your thumb to rest on, a thick base that keeps coffee hot, and a thin lip that’s easy to sip from, it’s a stylish update to the classic diner mug—and it comes in a variety of colors. You may also notice that your favorite local coffee shop has its own version of the Lino mug—notNeutral produces custom designs wholesale, so keep your eye out for fun patterns and colors.
These straight-sided mugs from Manual are easy to drink from, and their exaggerated handles add modern flair to their vintage amber glass design. Glass allows coffee to cool more quickly than ceramic, so these mugs are perfect for impatient sippers with a sense of style.
The Ember mug has a built-in heater that keeps coffee hot for 80 minutes and allows you to set the temperature between 120ºF and 145ºF. By keeping the coffee warm, it prevents organic acids from breaking down into bitter and sour flavors that you normally find in room-temperature brews. While we preferred the travel option in our testing, we also really like the handled mug version for drinking at home.
This camp mug-inspired cup from Miir checks the right boxes: a thin lip for sipping and a thumb rest on the handle, plus the added bonus of vacuum insulation. Its lid lets you take it on the go, and its sturdy handle can be easily clipped to a backpack for hiking and camping.
We’re fans of the striking angles of Hasami cups, but we particularly like this lidded option. It’s slightly larger than we would normally recommend, but with an included stackable ceramic coaster/lid this mug can keep your coffee temperature regulated before you need a refill. It’s made from a combination of porcelain and clay, however, so it does have a rougher texture that could be off-putting to some.
Design-Forward Options: Smaller Sizes with Some Added FlairMugs that taper towards the lip can help hold temperature, though they’re usually harder to drink from. This mug from Kinto also features a flared lip but keeps all of the heat retention of a squat base without the downsides. We also like the squared-off handle, which allows two fingers to nestle nicely with a solid thumb rest.
Finnish design firm marimekko is known for its eye-catching patterns and colors. Their 7-ounce coffee mug is a great size and shape for sipping your coffee at the ideal temperature. Like most options on this list, it has a flat handle and a thin lip, but it also comes in wide array of classic marimekko designs (including colorful flowers, monochrome flowers, and dots).
Wide-mouth mugs are perfect for allowing your nose to take in the full aroma of the coffee as you sip. Since half of coffee’s sensory experience is in its aromatics, these shorter, wider mugs help you take it all in. Haand offers this design in a variety of colors and patterns, too, allowing you to build a set or just pick out a single mug.
Though it’s called a cappuccino cup, it’s best for drip coffee. This smaller, squat mug has a wide opening and straight sides, making it easy to sip your coffee at the perfect temp. We particularly like the confetti colorways, but it also comes in a handful of solid colors.
Heath has been making ceramics for Bay Area coffee roasters for decades, and this smaller, stackable mug is great for people with limited cabinet space. We love the flattened handle for an easy thumb rest, and the stoneware body offers great heat retention.
Cups & Saucers: Wide-Mouth Cups with Drip-CatchersDesigned for a cappuccino, the d’Ancap 6-ounce cup and saucer is a favorite among coffee pros for drip coffee as well. It features high-quality porcelain with a thicker base that tapers to the lip, offering superior heat retention without sacrificing sippability. Its small capacity makes it easy to sip your coffee at the perfect temperature, and the wide mouth lets you take in the full aroma.
A larger cup-and-saucer combo, this high-quality porcelain set from Pilivuyt is elegant and sturdy. Porcelain holds temperature better than regular ceramic, but it’s also non-porous and easier to keep clean of old coffee stains. Pilivuyt has been making porcelain since 1818, and these cups are considered commercial-grade.
Handleless Options: Style and Comfort CombinedWith its soft, folded walls, this piece from Wilcoxson Brooklyn Ceramics creates curves that fit nicely in your hand. Its thin walls help coffee cool to drinking temperature while letting the heat warm your hands directly. It comes in a variety of colors and patterns, and serves as a beautiful art piece as much as it does a coffee vessel.
The Monty ceramics line from Fellow has a double-walled design for better heat retention while keeping the outside cool to the touch. They’re a great option for people who like drinking coffee from handleless tumblers, but don’t want to directly grab a hot cup. The insides are also slightly sloped to assist in latte art pouring, if you’re looking for a cup that’s well-suited for espresso drinks as well.
The Vero line from notNeutral features a thick, glass base and a thin lip, keeping it eminently sippable while making it heat-proof enough to handle. It’s a great vessel for coffee tasting, too. If you’re looking to brew up an expensive, limited-edition coffee to share with a friend, a set of Vero glasses lets you sip small volumes lightly without feeling like you’re holding an empty cup.
FAQsWhat mug shape keeps coffee the hottest?While a coffee mug with a heavy base that tapers upwards to the lip might keep your coffee slightly hotter, mug temperature is more of a measure of thermal mass. Larger mugs, around 16 ounces or more, will have a large thermal mass when they’re full and keep coffee hotter the longest—as long as they stay full. As soon as you start to sip coffee, the thermal mass drops significantly and the coffee will cool down quicker. Smaller mugs, between six and 10 ounces, will keep coffee warm until you finish your last sip and go for a refill.
Is glass or ceramic better for coffee? Materials that are non-porous, like porcelain or glass, are the best vessels to drink coffee from because they don’t impart any flavor and don’t retain coffee oils. Smooth-glazed ceramics are also great options, but natural glazes and rough surfaces can impart flavor into brewed coffee. Plus, it’s harder to clean coffee oils from their surface.
Why are diner mugs so thick? Diner mugs are designed with thick, ceramic walls so they’re sturdy and won’t break in busy kitchens and dish pits, and also so they retain heat better. The thicker ceramic walls can hold higher temperatures than thinner ceramics, but they are also harder to drink from, heavy, and awkward to hold.
Serious Eats / Stacy K. AllenOutdoor pizza ovens can heat up to over 700ºF on the stone and 900ºF in the dome—the temperatures you need for a perfect Neapolitan char on your crust. And while there are a variety of options out there, Ooni has put together a solid lineup of pizza ovens, with the Ooni Karu 12 being one of our favorite options. And, currently, it's 25% off.
Serious Eats / Stacy K. AllenTo buy: Ooni Karu 12 Outdoor Multi-Fuel Pizza Oven was $400, now $300 on amazon.com and ooni.com
Why it Won Our ReviewThough the Ooni 3 that Kenji tested is no longer available, the Ooni Karu 12 is similar in shape, though it features a wood-burning chamber instead of a wood pellet hopper. It heated up to more than 900ºF in just 15 minutes and the heat deflector aimed flames directly over pizzas, cooking the tops quickly and getting a nice char on the bottom. The Karu 12 is also very lightweight—only 26 pounds—and the all-weather cover doubles as a carrying case. Our only gripe with it was learning how to manage the fire for consistent heating, but that’s easily solvable with the gas burner addition (and in his review, Kenji notes that pizzas taste relatively the same no matter what the fuel source). It’s an extremely versatile outdoor oven that’s a steal now that it’s $100 (25%) off, and is a great choice if you’ve been eyeing multi-fuel backyard pizza ovens.
Good to Know Fuel type: Wood or charcoal, with a propane tank conversion kit available * Max floor temp: Over 750°F (400°C) * Max air temp: Over 900°F (480°C) * Fastest cook time: 75 seconds * Preheat time: 15 to 20 minutes * Recovery time between pizzas: Four to five minutes, if you keep the hopper full * Largest pizza size: 12 inches * Good for other foods: Yes, provided they fit in the oven with the door closed * Portable: Yes * Weight:* 26 pounds
FAQsIs the Ooni Karu 12 worth it? The Ooni Karu 12 is a lightweight, versatile multi-fuel outdoor pizza oven that hits 950ºF in just 15 minutes. It can cook a 12-inch pizza in 75 seconds, and it’s portable, too. We think it’s a reasonably priced outdoor pizza oven, and now that it’s on sale, it offers even more value.
Is the Ooni Karu 12 better at cooking pizza with wood or gas?While a gas burner is more consistent and can deliver the same flame for hours on end, it’s easier to use wood as a fuel source when traveling with the oven since you don’t have to also lug a heavy propane tank. Both can hit the same high 950ºF temperatures in the dome, so neither has a major advantage when it comes to heat.
Serving a salad next to a main—especially one that's protein-rich—is a great way to balance a heavier meal with something that's light and refreshing. But just because you're serving a salad on the side doesn't mean it needs to be bland and boring. Side salads can offer flavors and textures that complement a meal—and can sometimes even steal the show. From Korean cucumber banchan to a classic Caesar, and even some options with grains, these are our favorite side salad recipes to complete your meal.
Creamy Cucumber SaladLynn WolstedThis recipe yields a crunchy, creamy, refreshing cucumber salad thanks to tahini, lemon, and fresh dill.
The Fully Loaded Iceberg Wedge SaladVicky WasikThis classic salad is a celebration of rich, cooling flavors and a diversity of textures.
Horiatiki (Greek Salad)Vicky WasikFor the best Greek side salad, pit the olives, soak the onions in red wine vinegar, and top with slabs of feta.
Oi Muchim (Korean Marinated Cucumber Banchan)Vicky WasikThese marinated Korean cucumbers are tart, spicy, and just a touch sweet. You may not want dill pickles again.
The Best Caesar SaladDiana ChistrugaThis crowd-pleasing salad consists of crisp romaine leaves, crunchy croutons, and a little or a lot of anchovy, as you like.
Kale Caesar SaladSerious Eats / Qi AiMarinating tough kale leaves in oil transforms them into tender salad greens in this riff on the classic Caesar.
Trevisano Radicchio SaladVicky WasikThis bright and citrusy salad balances bitter with sweet, while adding freshness, acid, a little heat, and some texture.
Tiger Salad (Lao Hu Cai), à la Xi'an Famous FoodsSavory, refreshing, and tart, this dish is inspired by the lao hu cai, or "tiger vegetable salad," served at Xi'an Famous Foods.
Warm Kale and Caramelized Mushroom SaladSerious Eats / Qi AiThis salad features deeply golden brown sautéed mushrooms paired with hearty kale and a tangy sherry vinegar dressing.
Charred Brussels Sprouts and Leek Muchim With Coffee-Dijon DressingVicky WasikMarinated charred Brussels sprouts and raw leeks combine with a coffee-Dijon dressing for the ultimate Korean banchan-inspired salad.
Roman-Inspired Mixed-Green Salad (Misticanza alla Romana)Vicky WasikFor a truly great mixed greens salad, make your own mix with the freshest stuff you can find: whole heads of lettuce, radicchio, herbs, dandelion greens, and more.
Snap Pea Salad With Mint and Tahini-Harissa DressingJ. Kenji López-AltSweet snap peas and mint is a classic combination that lends itself well to variation, like in this light, cooling, and slightly spicy salad.
Red Cabbage Salad With Roasted Cipollini OnionsEmily and Matt CliftonThis salad combines gorgeously sweet, meltingly tender roasted cipollini onions with red cabbage, bitter chicory, walnuts, and crumbled goat cheese.
Carrot Salad With Yogurt, Ghee, and Barberry DressingVicky WasikThis simple salad dresses up shaved and pickled carrot with perky barberries and warm spiced ghee.
Radicchio, Endive, and Anchovy SaladBitter greens like radicchio, Belgian endive, and parsley take on a surprising sweetness when paired with fennel and celery dressed in an aggressively savory anchovy vinaigrette.
Wild Rice Salad With Mushrooms, Celery Root, and Pine NutsVicky WasikThis easy wild rice salad (or dressing, or stuffing) is deeply savory and earthy, thanks to sautéed mushrooms, celery root, and toasted pine nuts.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinSerious Eats is Team Saucier over Team Saucepan. However, that doesn’t mean saucepans don’t have their purpose in the kitchen, and many home cooks do want to buy them. Plus, saucepans are still a workhorse: they can be used to boil water, cook rice or pasta, poach eggs, reheat soup, and more. And the higher, straight sides and larger capacity tend to prevent boiling over more than their lower profile saucier siblings.
But not all saucepans are made the same. They come in different materials, have various layers of cladding, and are available in an array of sizes/shapes. Some have built-in spouts on the side to make pouring easier or internal measurement markings etched or printed onto their walls. And the handles and lids can also vary considerably. With all these variables, we set out to find the best 3- to 4-quart saucepans, evaluating nine popular models.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Zwilling Spirit's handle stayed cool while water boiled, which allowed us to hold and pour from the pan without difficulty. The flared rim made stirring easy and the saucepan heated evenly. The glass lid allows you to monitor food as it cooks (though it can steam up) and we appreciated the measurement markings on the pot's interior. The handle was comfortable and secure, too.
The Tramontina wasn’t the cheapest saucepan we tested, but it performed on par or even better than some of the pans that cost twice as much. The handle stayed cool, with a slightly rounded shape that felt comfortable to hold. The pan itself cooked evenly with no hot spots, and the lid handle didn't heat up while cooking, making it easy to take on and off.
We're longtime fans of All-Clad's stainless steel cookware, and the D3 saucepan is no exception: it was heat-responsive and easy to clean. Plus, you get All-Clad's lifetime warranty. While it's more expensive than our other winners, it's often discounted.
The TestsSerious Eats / Irvin Lin Boiling Water Test (Part 1): We boiled two quarts of room temperature water on medium-high heat without the lid to test how long it took for the water to boil, how easy it was to pour the water out of the pan, and how comfortable the handle and pan were to hold and move. * Boiling Water Test (Part 2): We then repeated the boiling water test with the lid on to see how fast the water boiled with the saucepan covered and how comfortable it was to remove the lid. * Rice Test: We made one cup of jasmine rice on the stove to see if the lid leaked steam, as well as to examine how evenly the rice cooked. We then soaked each pot for five minutes in hot water from the tap and hand-washed the saucepan to see how hard it was to remove any cooked-on rice. * Browned Butter Test: We browned four tablespoons of unsalted butter on medium-low heat to see how evenly the pan heated the butter, which can easily burn. * Pastry Cream Test (Winners-Only):* We made a batch of pastry cream in each of our favorite pans to see how evenly it cooked and how easy it was to maneuver a bulky balloon whisk in the cookware. Afterward, we cleaned each pan by hand to see if there was any burnt- or stuck-on pastry cream and evaluated ease of cleanup.
What We LearnedWe Preferred Wider SaucepansSerious Eats / Russell KilgoreWe stuck to testing 3- and 4-quart saucepans, so most of the cookware had similar capacities. But the shape of the saucepans varied, with some taller and some wider. Unlike sauciers, with their low sides and gently sloped corners, saucepans have straight sides that jut out from the base at 90-degree angles. This means getting into the corner of the pan, especially with a balloon whisk, can be challenging. With taller, more narrow saucepans, stirring was harder. The upright whisk had difficulty getting into the corners of the pan and snagging, splashing the pastry cream as we stirred.
Wider saucepans were more user-friendly, allowing us to angle and tilt the whisk handle lower so we could maneuver into the sharp corners and stir and scrape the pastry cream. Clean-up was also easier, as the wider silhouette made reaching in with a sponge to scrub the sides and bottom of the pan a cinch. The Tramontina, Zwilling, and All-Clad, were eight inches from lip to lip. In comparison, some of our least favorites were 7 1/4 to 7 3/4 inches wide.
Evaluating Handle DesignSerious Eats / Irvin LinThe saucepans' handles varied quite a bit: some were short, some long, some rounded, and some thinner with center indentations. We found rounded, wider handles to generally be more comfortable for a variety of users. Rounded handles (like the Tramontina) or handles that had some depth and width (like the Zwilling), felt comfortable in our hands and offered a nice balance, making the pan easier to pick up.
It was also important that the handles didn’t get too hot. While most stayed cool, some got quite hot, which made maneuvering the pan difficult when picking up or pouring.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreFinally, though it seems like a minor quibble, a couple of pans had handles positioned slightly lower on the pot. This resulted in the inside rivets being lower as well, which made cleaning more difficult, as food got trapped more easily around the rivets.
There Were Little (But No Less Important) Differences Amongst the LidsSerious Eats / Irvin LinPlacing a lid on a pot creates a closed environment where heat gets trapped, bringing liquid to a boil faster and preventing moisture from evaporating. We liked lids that were slightly arched, which allowed moisture to run down the sides and fall back into the pot.
Beyond the shape, the handle on the lid needed to stay cool. Ideally, you’d be able to cook a pot of rice or boil water and then remove the lid without a towel, pot holder, or oven mitt. Lids with larger or taller handles stayed cooler and were easier to pick up.
What's the Difference Between a Tri-Ply and a Five-Ply Saucepan?Serious Eats / Irvin LinMore than half of the pans we tested were tri-ply, meaning they were constructed with three layers of metal. Tri-ply cookware usually has an outer and inner stainless steel layer, and a more heat-conductive metal (typically aluminum or copper) sandwiched between them.
But there were a few non-tri-ply pans we tested, too. This included the Farberware, Material, All-Clad D5, and Avacraft. (There latter being a hybrid pan, with a 5-ply capsule bottom.) Five-ply, as you can guess, means there are five layers of metal, often more aluminum (or copper) and stainless steel to help diffuse the heat. Five-ply pans often take more time to heat up and weigh more, but the extra layers of metal (theoretically) distribute heat better and are more durable.
Notably, the All-Clad D5 heated beautifully and was responsive to temperature with no hot spots. But the added weight may be tougher for some users (it was nearly a pound heavier than the D3). The Material pan cooked slightly unevenly (even though one of the core materials was copper, a metal known for its quick heat distribution) possibly due to the extreme curve on the bottom of the pan. The Avacraft pan had a slightly uneven bottom, with lower edges around the pan, which caused butter and rice to cook more around the sides. The Farberware pan, which was neither tri-ply or 5-ply, felt cheap and heated unevenly due to the thin metal.
In the end, we found the tri-ply pans balanced performance and usability the best. They heated up evenly and though most were not quite as responsive as the All-Clad D5 pan, they were still consistent and had minimal hot spots.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a SaucepanSerious Eats / Irvin LinFor most home cooks, a 3- to 4-quart saucepan offers a versatile, spacious capacity. Look for a saucepan that is tri-ply, which will ensure that the pan heats up consistently and evenly with little to no hot spots while still being lightweight. Wider saucepans (eight inches from lip-to-lip) allowed for easier stirring and cleaning.
In general, we preferred saucepans with wider and rounder handles, which felt comfortable to grip. We also found lid handles that were taller or larger heated up less readily, and lids that slightly arched upwards encouraged moisture to run back into the pan quickly.
What we liked: The Zwilling Spirit 4-quart saucepan was the largest pan we tested, as well as one of the heaviest due to its size. But the handle had a slight flare near the end, as well as a rounded bottom and slight indentation on top, which allowed our thumb to rest comfortably while holding and carrying it. The handle stayed cool, only getting hot about one inch from the pan’s body, allowing you to choke up on the handle for leverage.
The included glass lid, which is oven-safe to 400°F, made it easy to see when the water was boiling, without having to lift up the lid to check. The lid’s handle stayed cool to the touch as well and there are measurement markings on the interior of the pot.
The tri-ply material conducted heat well with no hot spots. Despite having a larger capacity, stirring was relatively easy when making the brown butter and pastry cream thanks to its wide size and flared rim. Finally, clean-up was a cinch with this model, with minimal scrubbing to get any stuck, cooked-on rice off. It’s also induction-friendly.
What we didn’t like: The handle of the Zwilling Spirit could have been slightly longer, as it was a relatively short seven inches. Folks with larger hands might find it too small.
Price at time of publish: $100.
Key Specs Capacity: 4 quarts * Weight: 4 pounds, 8 ounces with lid; 3 pounds, 5 5/8 ounces without lid * Layers of cladding: 3 (stainless steel and aluminum) * Lip-to-lip diameter: 8 inches * Base diameter: 7 1/4 inches * Depth: 5 inches * Handle length: 7 inches * Induction compatible:* Yes
Serious Eats / Irvin LinWhat we liked: The Tramontina saucepan performed remarkably well for its price point. The tri-ply pan heated up evenly with no hot spots. Rice, browned butter, and pastry cream all came out nicely, with no sticking or burnt-on spots. Stirring was relatively easy, as the 3-quart pan was still eight inches wide, which allowed you to angle a wooden spoon or whisk down to get into the corners and edges of the pot.
The pan’s handle was slightly longer than the Zwilling pan (at about eight inches long) and had a nice, rounded feel. It stayed cool, only getting warm about one-and-a-half inches from the pan's body. The stainless steel lid had a tall handle that didn't get hot, making it comfortable to remove mid-cooking. Clean-up was pretty easy as well, with minimal scrubbing necessary to remove the cooked-on rice. It’s also induction compatible.
What we didn’t like: The lid’s handle was a bit thin, making it a little less easy to grab. The shiny mirror finish on the outside is pretty, but showed fingerprints immediately and the long-term durability of the finish is questionable, as mirror finishes tend to show scratches more easily than brushed ones.
Price at time of publish: $55.
Key Specs Capacity: 3 quarts * Weight: 3 pounds, 4 ounces with lid; 2 pounds, 8 ounces without lid * Layers of cladding: 3 (stainless steel and aluminum) * Lip-to-lip diameter: 8 inches * Base diameter: 7 1/4 inches * Depth: 4 inches * Handle length: 8 1/8 inches * Induction compatible:* Yes
Serious Eats / Irvin LinWhat we liked: This tri-ply pan cooked evenly and was responsive to heat. It was also easy to clean, requiring minimal scrubbing. Its handle has an indent that runs along its length, which helped to prevent the handle from turning in your hand as you pour. This saucepan comes with All-Clad's lifetime warranty.
What we didn't like: The saucepan's handle was thin and less comfortable to hold than other winners and the small lid handle got hot, making us reach for a kitchen towel to pick it up.
Price at time of publish: $120.
Key Specs Capacity: 3 quarts * Weight: 3 pounds, 10 1/8 ounces with lid; 2 pounds, 13 5/8 ounces without lid * Layers of cladding: 3 (stainless steel and aluminum) * Lip-to-lip diameter: 8 inches * Base diameter: 7 1/4 inches * Depth: 3 3/4 inches * Handle length: 9 1/4 inches * Induction compatible:* Yes
Serious Eats / Irvin LinThe Competition* All-Clad D5 Stainless Steel Saucepan: This five-ply pan performed beautifully, and if you're looking for a five-ply saucepan, it's well worth considering. However, it's heavier and more expensive, which kept us from naming it as a winner. * Cuisinart Multiclad Pro Triple Ply Stainless 3-Quart Saucepan: The Cuisinart pan performed well, with even cooking and a cool handle on the pot and lid. But the lid was flat, which meant moisture clung to it for a while before randomly dropping back into the pot. The narrower and taller dimensions of the pan also made it more difficult to stir food. * Material The Sauce Pot: We had high hopes for this five-ply saucepan with a built-in spout which made it easier to pour (if you're right-handed). It had a comfortable handle that was thicker and rounder, making it easier to hold and pick up. However, we noticed there were some hot spots in the pan, with the rice browning and sticking in certain parts. The rice was also difficult to scrub off, making it more challenging to clean than other pots we tested. * AVACRAFT Stainless Steel Saucepan with Glass Lid: This pan had some hot spots due to an uneven bottom that rose slightly in the middle, with rice and butter browning around the edges faster than in the center. * Farberware 3-Quart Classic Traditions Saucepan with Glass Lid: The Farberware saucepan was the only pan we tested that was not tri-ply or five-ply. It was significantly lighter in weight than the other pans, with a resin handle and lid knob. Because the pan was so thin, it performed poorly, with overcooked rice on the bottom and undercooked rice on top, and butter that almost burned in some spots and didn’t brown properly in others. * Duxtop Whole-Clad Tri-Ply Stainless Steel 3-Quart Saucepan with Lid: The Duxtop saucepan performed well through all the tests, with even heating and cooking, nice responsiveness, and a comfortable cool handle. But the handle placement is slightly lower on the body, which meant the inner rivet heads were also lower. Food got caught in the rivets, making clean-up more challenging.
FAQsWhat is a saucepan? A saucepan has a flat bottom with straight sides and a long handle. It comes in a variety of sizes, the most common being two to four quarts, though you can get smaller saucepans as well. Saucepans are smaller than Dutch ovens or stockpots, more cylindrical than sauciers, and narrower and taller than a frying or sauté pan.
What does a saucepan look like? A saucepan is a cylindrical pan with a flat bottom and straight sides. Saucepans have long handles and often come with tight-fitting lids.
What is a nonreactive saucepan? Saucepans and cookware come in a variety of different materials. Some materials, like aluminum, copper, or cast iron, will react with acidic ingredients like lemon juice or tomatoes. When reactive material is used to cook these acidic ingredients, metal can actually migrate into the food, damaging the pan itself and giving your food a metallic taste. Nonreactive saucepans use stainless steel, enamel, or nonstick coatings on the inside of their pan to make them safe and durable for cooking all food, regardless of acidity.
What is a saucepan used for? Saucepans are versatile pieces of cookware, suitable for cooking anything that involves liquid. Boil some water and use the saucepan to blanch vegetables or poach items like eggs. Use a saucepan to cook rice, quinoa, or pasta, as the flat-bottomed surface heats up the water quickly on the stovetop. They are also great for reheating leftovers, including soups and stews.
What is a large saucepan? A larger saucepan is three to four quarts in size. Bigger than that, and we just recommend getting a 5 1/2-quart Dutch oven.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonWhile curried goat is often the more celebrated Jamaican dish, curried chicken is a simpler yet equally delicious staple. Curries appear in the Jamaican diet courtesy of East Indian indentured laborers who were brought from India by the British to work on plantations after the end of slavery. Curried chicken embodies the history of our island and the many settlers who made their way to our shores from foreign lands, all of whom contributed to the cuisine that we call Jamaican today.
Curried chicken makes a regular appearance on cookshop menus, where it is served with rice and peas or white rice and raw vegetables in a “box lunch.” It is also served at home for either lunch or dinner and can be paired with more elaborate accompaniments like steamed jasmine rice, roti, fried plantain, and mango chutney. Curried chicken would also be commonly served at a family Sunday lunch or dinner, with typical Jamaican side dishes like fried or roasted breadfruit, fried plantain, avocado, a big green salad, steamed callaloo, and sliced Scotch bonnet pepper. My sons and their friends especially loved curried chicken when they were growing up, so it was on the dinner menu every other week during their school years. My house was always filled with a crew of rambunctious, hungry teenage boys, and this dish was an easy, nourishing, and satisfying meal for all.
An essential technique in many Jamaican recipes, including this one, is marination. We marinate most meat, poultry, and fish before cooking, contributing to the building of flavor in the dish. Here, the chicken is first rubbed all over with the cut side of a lime or lemon. This is a practice that is standard here in Jamaica, less to reduce bacteria and more to remove what is perceived by Jamaicans as the "raw" flavor of the chicken—one of the culinary sins, along with underseasoning, that Jamaicans would blame on a mediocre cook.
After this acid rubdown, the chicken is seasoned with the curry powder, ginger, onion, garlic, thyme, Scotch bonnet pepper, and pimento (what we call allspice in Jamaica) and left to marinate for at least an hour prior to cooking. (Old-time Jamaican cooks will usually season and marinate from the day before cooking or, at the very least, a few hours before cooking). Jamaican curry powders are typically a premade blend of spices like cumin, coriander, fenugreek, allspice, mustard, anise, and turmeric, hence the signature yellow color, which is quite different from curry powders of other origins.
Once marinated, the chicken is browned in a deep pot and then removed from the oil, after which additional oil, curry powder, and seasonings are sautéed, adding another layer of intensity and spice while developing those flavors and drawing them out into the oil. The chicken is then returned to the pot with all the seasonings, liquid is added, and the dish is left to simmer and reduce, overall a fairly simple process.
Some cooks like to add carrots and potatoes, which this recipe offers as an option and makes for a much heartier meal. The potatoes and carrots would be added when the curry powder and seasonings are sautéed, prior to the addition of the liquid.
Another non-traditional variation, which we personally love and call for in this recipe, is the addition of coconut milk. The coconut milk makes for a thick, creamy, slightly sweet, and rich gravy that coats the chicken beautifully, and is delicious on rice. However you choose to do it, this recipe will likely become a staple in your roster of wholesome and tasty but impressive dinners for guests and family alike.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonFor the Marinated Chicken: Rub chicken all over with lime (or lemon), then season all over with salt and pepper.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonIn a medium bowl, stir together turmeric, garlic, minced Scotch bonnet, curry powder, ground allspice, ginger, and thyme leaves. Add chicken pieces and, using gloved hands, massage the spice marinade all over chicken, including under the skin. Cover chicken and marinate, refrigerated, for at least 1 and up to 12 hours.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonFor the Curry: In large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, warm 2 tablespoons (30ml) oil over medium heat until shimmering. Working in batches if necessary to avoid crowing the pot, add chicken pieces and cook, turning often, until lightly browned on both sides, about 5 minutes; be careful not to let the marinated chicken get too dark. Transfer chicken to a platter and set aside.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonAdd remaining 2 tablespoons (30ml) oil to pot. Add curry powder, ginger, cumin, coriander seeds, and garam masala (if using), and cook, stirring, until lightly toasted, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonStir in onion, carrots, and potato (if using). Cook, until just starting to soften, about 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonAdd chicken back to pot along with any accumulated juices and stir to coat with aromatics and spices. Add 1 cup (227ml) hot water, thyme sprigs, whole Scotch bonnet, and allspice berries and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonUncover and add 1/2 cup (113ml) coconut milk, then continue to simmer, uncovered, until the sauce forms a rich, gravy-like consistency, about 15 minutes. If needed, add more water and/or coconut milk to thin an over-reduced sauce. Season with salt and pepper.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonWe like to serve this with jasmine or basmati rice, mango or papaya chutney, fried ripe plantains, and sliced avocado.
Serious Eats / Karina MatalonSpecial EquipmentDutch oven
NotesYou can use any combination of breasts and/or legs, or a whole chicken cut into pieces. In Jamaica it's most common to chop the chicken pieces through the bone into even smaller pieces, which you can do here; at the very least, separate drumsticks and thighs at the joint and divide the breast in two, such that one piece of the breast has the wing attached and the other is the tapered end.
We like to add ground cumin, coriander seed, and garam masala to Jamaican curry powder for additional depth of flavor, but it's not required, and not something many Jamaican cooks would do. Feel free to omit those additional spices, if desired.
Potatoes and carrots are something some cooks in Jamaica add to their curry chicken, while others don't. Our personal preference is not to include them, but we've left them as optional here in case you're a fan.
Coconut milk, while not in many Jamaican curry chicken recipes, is a must-add for us, as it creates a gravy that is delicate yet rich, with a deeper depth of flavor.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe curry chicken can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days.
Serious Eats / Will DickeySerious Eats staffers have long loved Breville’s Smart Oven line of toaster ovens—more than half of us have one of these models on our kitchen counters right now. The Breville Smart Oven is currently our favorite toaster oven under $250, and the Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer was one of our air fryer toaster oven top picks. It’s not hard to see why these models keep acing our tests—with excellent temperature stability, a wide temperature range, and an easy-to-use interface, we dare say they perform better than some full-size ovens.
“The Breville Smart Oven heats quickly and is much easier to clean than my regular oven. If I have to choose between the two, I’m going with the Breville,” says updates editor Jacob Dean. So, when we found out the entire Smart Oven line is going on sale from March 27th through April 10th, we just had to highlight our favorite models.
Breville Smart OvenSerious Eats / Will DickeyTo buy: Breville Smart Oven was $270, now $216 at amazon.com
Why we love it: As our favorite toaster oven, the original Breville Smart Oven gives you a lot of bang for your buck. It can toast, roast, bake, and broil, and its temperature never strayed 15ºF from its set target. “It's become my go-to oven for almost anything I can fit in it, which is a fair amount given its generous size,” says senior culinary director Daniel Gritzer. We liked the easy-to-read interface, and the dial controls for mode, time, and temperature. Plus, it automatically shuts off when the timer hits zero—a nice little perk to cut down on energy use.
Good to Know Temperature range: 120°F to 450°F * Preset functions: Toast, bagel, bake, roast, broil, pizza, cookies, reheat, and warm * Dimensions: 18 1/2 x 16 1/4 x 11 1/4 inches * Accessories: 12- x 12-inch enameled baking pan; 12- x 12-inch enameled broil rack; 13-inch nonstick pizza pan * Capacity: 6 slices of toast; 13-inch pizza * Wattage: 1800 watts * Warranty:* 1-year limited
Breville Smart Oven ProBrevilleTo buy: Breville Smart Oven Pro was $350, now $224 at amazon.com
Why we love it: Nearly identical to the original Smart Oven, the Breville Smart Oven Pro adds two key features: a slow cook mode and an internal light. Though we haven’t officially tested it, this is a model multiple Serious Eats staffers own and use on a daily basis. The slow cook mode is a nice addition for braises (it can run up to 10 hours before automatically switching over to its keep warm function) and the internal light is key for checking the color of toast or a roast chicken. Normally, these features have been small upgrades for a pretty big price jump but, on sale (at a slightly larger discount of 35%), we think this model is a great step up from the Smart Oven.
Good to Know Temperature range: 120°F to 450°F * Preset functions: Toast, bagel, bake, roast, broil, pizza, cookies, reheat, warm, slow cook * Dimensions: 18 1/2 x 16 1/4 x 11 1/4 inches * Accessories: 12- x 12-inch enameled baking pan; 12- x 12-inch enameled broil rack; 13-inch nonstick pizza pan * Capacity: 6 slices of toast; 13-inch pizza * Wattage: 1800 watts * Warranty:* 1-year limited
Breville Smart Oven Air FryerSerious Eats / Will DickeyTo buy: Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer was $349, now $280 at amazon.com
Why we love it: Incrementally building on previous models, the Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer has the same features as the Smart Oven Pro, but adds a more powerful fan and an air fryer setting. It’s one of our favorite air fryer toaster ovens for all the same reasons why the Smart Oven is our top toaster oven—consistent temperatures and an easy-to-use interface—only this version comes with an air fryer mode and basket. While we still recommend getting both a separate toaster oven and air fryer if you have the counter space, if you’re looking for an all-in-one appliance and roast more than you air fry, this model takes the cake.
Good to Know * Temperature range: 120°F to 450°F * Preset functions: Toast, bagel, bake, roast, air fryer, broil, pizza, cookies, reheat, warm, slow cook * Dimensions: 19 x 16 x 11 inches * Accessories: Air fry basket; 8.25- x 12-inch enameled broil rack; 13-inch nonstick pizza pan * Capacity: 6 slices of toast; 13-inch pizza * Wattage: 1800 watts * Warranty: 2-year limited
Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer Pro AmazonTo buy: Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer Pro was $400, now $320 at amazon.com
Why we love it: Though we didn’t test this specific model, it’s extremely similar to the Joule Oven Air Fryer Pro that won over associate commerce editor Grace Kelly. “Its air fryer mode is great at crisping up fries, and its super convection fan feature ensures ultra-crispy chicken skin whenever I throw in a roaster,” she says. While the Smart Oven Air Fryer Pro lacks the app connectivity that the Joule version does (which we weren't blown away by, to be honest), it features the same expanded temperature range and super convection fan mode. On top of the additional power, this oven also adds a dehydrate and proof function, which drops the temp down to 80ºF. This option makes this model extra helpful for bakers who need a warm spot for their sourdough starter.
Good to Know Weight: 39 lbs * Wattage: 1800 Watts * Dimensions: 21.5 x 17.5 x 12.7 inches * Temperature range: 80°F to 480°F * Accessories included: 13-inch non-stick pizza pan, 2 wire racks, 9 x 13-inch broiling rack, 9 x 13-inch enameled roasting pan, air fry/dehydrate basket * Number of Presets: 13 * Presets: Toast, Bagel, Bake, Air Fry, Broil, Roast, Pizza, Cookies, Proof, Reheat, Slow Cook, Keep Warm, Dehydrate * Care: We recommend hand-washing the pull-out tray; the rest of the machine should be carefully wiped down with a damp cloth and mild spray solution, and dried. Take care not to touch the quartz heating elements. * Warranty:* 2-year limited warranty
FAQsHow long will the sale last? The Breville Smart Oven sale runs from March 27 through April 10.
Where is the sale happening? You can find all of these ovens on sale at Breville.com, as well as retailers like Amazon.com and Williams Sonoma.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRice Krispies Treats get all the love, but I’m going to let you in on a little secret: cornflake crispies are better. Corn’s* naturally sweet and earthy flavor profile lends itself well to desserts, making it a fun, versatile ingredient to use in puddings, ice cream, cookies, and more. I didn’t grow up eating cornflake crispies, nor do I remember the first time I had them, but somewhere along the way, I swapped in Corn Flakes for Rice Krispies and they just became my go-to.
* Yes, corn, because cornflakes are made from corn, something that is remarkably easy to never think about while sleepily munching through one's morning bowl of cold cereal.
This recipe is based on my method for Rice Krispies Treats, which relies on the Maillard reaction—a chemical reaction that occurs when heat transforms proteins and sugars to create complex aromas and flavors—to do the hard work for us. Toasting the cereal until golden brings out the corn’s buttery, honeyed notes, while browning the butter adds nuttiness and a deeply roasted flavor flavor. Generously seasoning the bars with salt prevents it from becoming cloying, and results in a satisfying bite that’s just sweet and salty enough.
Preheat oven to 325ºF (160ºC). Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment and divide cereal evenly between the two sheets. Using your hands, gently crumble the cornflakes to break them up into smaller pieces. (They should not be as small as breadcrumbs; aim for the size slightly larger than that of Rice Krispies.) Toast in the oven, using a spatula to stir the grains occasionally, until deep golden brown, about 10 minutes. Remove from oven and cool for 5 minutes. When cool, lift both sides of the parchment to form a “sleeve” and transfer corn flakes to a large bowl. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile the corn flakes toast, line a 9- by 9-inch baking dish with parchment and coat evenly with nonstick baking spray. Set aside.
In a large pot, melt 4 tablespoons unsalted butter over medium heat, stirring and swirling, until solids turn golden brown and the butter smells nutty, 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce heat to low. Add salt, followed by marshmallows. Using a rubber spatula, stir until the marshmallows have just melted, about 4 minutes. Stir in toasted corn flakes, folding well to incorporate.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer to prepared baking dish, using a rubber spatula greased with nonstick baking spray to coax the mixture into the pan. Garnish with flaky salt. Allow bars to cool for 30 minutes before portioning.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo portion, remove bars from the baking dish and place on a cutting board. Use a serrated knife to cut bars into squares, rectangles, or your desired shape.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment2 rimmed baking sheets, parchment paper, 9- by 9-inch baking dish, nonstick baking spray
NotesTo make these treats vegetarian, substitute the regular marshmallows with a vegetarian-friendly alternative.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe bars can be kept at room temperature for up to 1 week, but are best enjoyed within 5 days. Store in an airtight container.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubIt may be hard to believe, but the expensive espresso machine on my counter is almost useless without a good coffee scale. No matter how high-tech that machine is, it’s near-impossible to pull a great-tasting shot of espresso without weighing the beans first. And while a pourover, French press, and automatic drip don’t require the exact degree of precision brewing espresso does, a scale is still the best way to improve your coffee across all of these methods.
While a kitchen scale is great for weighing coffee if you mostly make auto-drip, coffee scales up the ante in two ways: they’re usually more precise, showcasing a 0.1-gram resolution, and they also offer lightning-fast responsiveness. Kitchen scales are often a little slower and wait for the weight to settle before they display a number, but a good coffee scale is designed to show you a real-time accurate reading, so you know exactly how much water to add when brewing a pourover. The Acaia Pearl also has a flow-rate indicator on the display to show you how fast you’re pouring, and the Bluetooth app can even walk you through pourover recipes step-by-step. And though it may be a small addition, this coffee scale also comes with a heat-resistant silicone pad to prevent the sudden temperature changes from affecting the internal measurement system of the scale.
The reason weight works better than volume as a measurement for coffee is that there are a number of environmental factors that can affect coffee density, so a standard 2-tablespoon scoop of ground coffee could weigh anywhere between six to 10 grams. Even if you’re not ready to jump into brewing espresso, weighing out coffee for your drip brewer can greatly increase your consistency, especially if you like buying coffee from different roasters.
Whether a high-end pourover scale or a study kitchen scale is best for your home setup is a personal choice, though I’ve had the same Acaia Pearl and Acaia Lunar for almost a decade, and neither has shown a drop in performance. So, without further ado, here are a few of our (and my) favorite scales worth checking out if you’re serious about coffee, like me, or are just looking for more consistency in your morning coffee routine.
The Best Coffee ScalesThis scale from OXO was the second most responsive in our testing and features an easy-to-read display, accurate readings, and a high 3-kilogram capacity. Plus, it’s just $55—about $100 less than our other picks.
Good to Know Materials: Plastic body, silicone mat * Dimensions: 10.75 x 7.75 1.55 inches * Batteries: Four AAA batteries * Resolution: 0.1 gram increments * Maximum weight: 3000 grams * Bluetooth connectivity: No * Care instructions: Wipe clean with a damp cloth * Best for: Budding coffee geeks who want a versatile (and affordable) scale that has a high enough max capacity for most kitchen tasks, too * Price at time of publish:* $55
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWith lightning-fast readings and ultra-precise accuracy, the Acaia Pearl set the standard for coffee scales everywhere. It also features a built-in timer, a water-resistant platform design, and Bluetooth connectivity.
Good to Know Materials: Plastic body, silicone mat * Dimensions: 6.3 x 6.3 x 1.25 inches * Battery life: 30-40 hours * Resolution: 0.1 gram increments * Maximum weight: 2000 grams * Bluetooth connectivity: Yes * Care instructions: Wipe clean with a damp cloth * Best for: True coffee nerds who brew multiple pourovers a day and want top notch responsiveness and resolution * Price at time of publish:* $150
Serious Eats / Jessie RaubFor espresso, Acaia engineered a scale small enough to fit on an espresso machine drip tray, waterproofed it, and made it even more accurate and responsive than the Pearl. It’s constructed out of high-grade coated aluminum for durability and also features Bluetooth connectivity.
Good to Know Materials: Aluminum, acrylic * Dimensions: 4.1 x 4.1 x .6 inches * Battery life: 30-40 hours * Resolution: 0.1 gram increments * Maximum weight: 2000 grams * Bluetooth connectivity: Yes * Care instructions: Wipe clean with a damp cloth * Best for: Home espresso enthusiasts who want a durable, waterproof scale that’s small enough to fit on a drip tray but high enough capacity to tare a portafilter as well. * Price at time of publish:* $250
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubFor people who aren't quite ready to go head first into the coffee brewing rabbit hole, a great kitchen scale can build better consistency for your automatic drip brewer routine. Though its smallest unit of measure is one gram, it also features an 11-pound max capacity, making it more versatile for bigger weighing projects as well.
Good to Know Materials: Stainless steel, plastic * Dimensions: 9.5 x 7.13 x 1.25 inches * Batteries: Four AAA batteries * Resolution: 1 gram increments * Maximum weight: 11-pounds * Bluetooth connectivity: No * Care instructions: Wipe clean with a damp cloth * Best for: Anybody looking for more consistency in their day-to-day auto-drip coffee routine but isn’t ready to tackle complicated brew methods * Price at time of publish:* $56
FAQsAre coffee scales worth it? There are a handful of coffee scales we recommend at a wide price-point difference, but coffee scales are quicker to read and more accurate than most kitchen scales, and we think they’re essential for great quality coffee at home. Home coffee fanatics might get more out of a pricier Acaia scale, but our budget pick is a great option for anyone looking to improve their coffee setup.
Do I need an expensive coffee scale?You don’t need an expensive coffee scale, but you do need one that’s responsive enough to give you real-time readouts while you’re pouring water. In our testing, most scales had too much of a delay while brewing, so we recommend the Acaia Pearl as a high-end pick or the OXO Brew Precision scale for a more budget-friendly option.
Why do baristas use scales? Measuring coffee and water by weight is the most accurate way to create a consistent brew ratio because different coffees have different densities. By weighing out each component, baristas are able to confirm that their brew ratios as accurate and repeatable, and can better dial-in great tasting coffee.
Serious Eats / Amanda. SuarezThere was a time in my life when a plate of biscuits and gravy was my answer to a raging hangover, although, if I'm honest, it was often my southern friends who were battling through their own headaches to whip it up and I was the lucky recipient. I don’t find myself needing a hangover cure much these days, but I do still crave velvety, luscious sausage gravy spooned over warm biscuits. The challenge was recreating my memory of those pitch-perfect versions in my own kitchen.
Made in a skillet with drippings, sausage gravy is creamy and savory and often served with tender, flaky biscuits for breakfast in the southern United States. According to Washington Post writer Aaron Hutcherson, the dish became popular sometime in the late 1800s in Southern Appalachia. The sauce—also known as sawmill gravy—was “the ideal cheap and calorie-dense fuel for sawmill workers lifting heavy logs all day long, and the perfect tool for making the era’s biscuits more palatable,” which were tougher and firmer than the biscuits of today.
Once a dish reserved for poor, working class communities, sausage gravy and biscuits can now be found within the pages of cookbooks and on restaurant menus across the country. (Though the Southern writer John T. Edge once commented to the New York Times that you’d be unlikely to find recipes for the dish “because the Midwestern and Southern cooks who are most expert at those dishes rely upon muscle memory for guidance not cookbooks.”)
It's All in the RouxAt its most basic, sausage gravy is a white sauce (or béchamel) made with drippings and other fats. Most traditional Southern gravy recipes call for browning the sausage in butter, removing the meat with a slotted spoon, then leaving the fat behind in the pan to create a roux, a mixture of fat and flour used to thicken soups, stews, and sauces. Why use a roux and not just dump plain flour into a liquid as it simmers? As Daniel wrote previously in his guide to roux, not only does cooking the raw flavor out of the starch lead to a better-tasting final dish, but it also coats each individual starch granule in fat, which “helps them disperse more evenly when combined with a liquid, like stock or milk,” reducing the risk of lumps.
There are numerous factors that help determine the flavor and consistency of the final gravy. It starts with the roux—how much starch you’re using, the kind of fat you use, how long you cook the flour in the fat, and how dark you want the roux to get—and continues on to the choice of liquid (milk? broth?) and seasonings.
A traditional sawmill gravy uses milk as the liquid and involves making a white roux, which means we’re not allowing the fat and flour mixture to color at all. This maximizes the flour's liquid-thickening ability, as the longer it's toasted, the less effective of a thickener it becomes. We also need sausage that's fatty enough to render sufficient grease to make the roux's signature paste. Since it can be hard to know how much fat your sausage will yield when shopping at the market, I've added butter as an optional ingredient in this recipe, just in case your sausage is too lean and stingy on the fat.
The fat isn't just essential for the roux, it's also necessary for the taste of the gravy. Many aroma molecules are fat-soluble, meaning much of the sausage’s flavor will render out into the pan with the liquefying fat, perfect for infusing the final gravy with rich, savory notes. That said, there is such a thing as too much of a good thing, and too much fat in the pan will produce a gravy that's greasy and broken—if your sausage releases ample fat, there's no need to top it up with butter.
The Right Sausage to UseIn the South, there is a much wider selection of sausages made with different herbs and seasonings available at grocery stores. In other parts of the country, though, pork sausage options tend to sway Italian or are labeled “breakfast sausage” without much explanation. I tried several brands of breakfast links—casings removed—including ones packed in-house by grocery store deli departments, as well as the bulk Jimmy Dean brand breakfast sausage.
Almost all of the breakfast sausage products included sugar, brown sugar, and/or corn syrup, and while the warm spices and sweetness definitely came through with each meat product, I needed an extra something to improve the overall flavor of the sausage. I took a note from Southern cookbook author Virginia Willis and cooked a finely diced onion with the sausage to add a savory depth to the sauce. This isn't something you'll see in many sausage and gravy recipes, but the onion is a welcome addition, its sweet flavor and silky softness a perfect complement to the breakfast sausage and gravy.
When we cook the sausage, we want to brown it well for roasted depth, courtesy of the Maillard reaction, a series of chemical reactions that occurs when proteins and sugars are transformed by heat, creating new aromas and flavors.
The Ideal Flour to Milk RatioHow much flour you use per cup of milk will determine the thickness of your sauce. Using too much (or too little) starch can mean the difference between an unpleasantly viscous sauce and one that’s just a touch too runny. For sausage gravy, we’re looking for a silky, pourable consistency that’s still thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Using a tablespoon per cup of milk proved to be just the right amount; any more flour, and the mixture would have been too stiff to enjoy over biscuits, especially as it cools on the plate.
To get to the ideal ratio, I started with 1/3 cup of flour and kept reducing the amount of flour in the recipe until I got to a sweet spot: 1 tablespoon of all-purpose flour per 1 cup of milk. This ratio resulted in a comforting, spoon-coating gravy that didn’t congeal once poured over the biscuits. If you get the ratio wrong, there’s no need to worry—the sauce is incredibly forgiving and you can loosen it with a little more liquid or thicken the sauce by allowing it to reduce.
The BiscuitsThis recipe leans on the the recipes already published to Serious Eats by Kenji and Stella for a variety of excellent biscuit options, any of which could work with this recipe. Kenji’s buttermilk biscuits get a little help from a food processor and some extra folding steps for extra flaky layers, but if you don’t have any buttermilk, consider making Stella’s light, fluffy biscuits with yogurt a try. And if you have 10 hours to spare? Well, Stella also has yeast-raised biscuits that get great flavor and structure from a long, slow rise in the fridge.
The last (and perhaps most important) component to making this dish is the timing. Why settle for eating cold biscuits with hot gravy—or vice versa—when you could have warm biscuits straight from the oven? Start warming your biscuits in a preheated oven set at about 300ºF (150ºC) when you start making the gravy, and they’ll be nice and toasty by the time your gravy is ready.
This recipe makes enough gravy for a full batch of buttermilk biscuits, which can serve four extremely hungry people, or six to eight less-hungry folks.
In a 10-inch cast iron skillet set over medium heat, sauté the sausage, breaking it up with a wooden spoon, until at least 1 1/2 tablespoons fat has rendered, about 6 minutes; if your sausage is lean and yields less than 1 1/2 tablespoons of fat, melt in butter, 1/2 tablespoon at a time, until you have about 1 1/2 tablespoons in the skillet. Add the onion, season with a pinch of salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is very soft and golden and the sausage is well browned, about 7 minutes longer.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezStir in the flour until no dry bits remain, about 30 seconds.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezStir in 2 tablespoons of milk until completely absorbed. Gradually pour in remaining milk while stirring constantly to avoid lumps. Bring the gravy to a simmer and cook, stirring and scraping the sides and bottom of the skillet, until a silky and thick, spoon-coating sauce forms, about 4 minutes. Season to taste with salt and a generous amount of black pepper.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezServe warm biscuits with hot gravy spooned over top.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment10-inch cast iron skillet
NotesThis recipe is also delicious with these yogurt-based light and fluffy biscuits.
To warm up pre-baked biscuits, preheat your oven to 300ºF (150ºC) 30 minutes before you plan to make the sausage gravy. When you start making the gravy, place the biscuits on a rimmed baking sheet. Reheat in the oven while you prepare the gravy.
Make-Ahead and StorageThis is best eaten right away while the biscuits are warm and the gravy is hot off the stovetop. The gravy will thicken as it cools.
Serious Eats / Liz ClaymanWooden cutting boards are ubiquitous in many kitchens: they’re the workhorse of meal prep, the Ginger Rogers to your knife’s Fred Astaire. But do you really need a pricey one? When we tested wooden cutting boards, our top three picks all came from smaller manufacturers who make their cutting boards from high-end woods, and most of them were at least $120.
With so many varieties and materials out there, we took some time to break down just why our top cutting board picks tend to be more expensive—and why they're worth it.
They’re Made From Better MaterialsOur top three picks come from The Boardsmith and Brooklyn Butcher Blocks, who exclusively work with maple, walnut, and cherry wood. All three of these woods are well-regarded for their sturdiness while still having enough give to be gentle on your knives (though some people think cherry is a little too soft). These aren’t the most expensive woods out there, but the boards have to be straight and without blemishes in order to combine them into a high-end cutting board, making the raw materials for well-made boards costlier than their bulk lumber counterparts.
Cheaper cutting boards are usually made from bamboo, acacia, teak, or even compressed paper. All of these materials are hailed for their natural water resistance, but both bamboo and teak have high silica content which can be really tough on knives, while compressed paper boards are the hardest material of them all. Acacia’s hardness can vary depending on where it was grown, and while we prefer maple, our budget pick is made from acacia.
They're Often Made End-Grain Style, Which Is Easier on KnivesMost inexpensive cutting boards are made from edge-grain wood, meaning the boards are aligned lengthwise before assembling. It’s a much cheaper construction method because there are fewer pieces to assemble.
End-grain boards, which make up three of our four top picks, expose the ends of the boards on the cutting surface in a brick-like pattern. Because there are so many more wood pieces involved in the construction process, it takes a lot more time and precision to assemble. This style of board is also gentler on your knives because the wood fibers are oriented vertically, allowing the knife’s edge to pass between them. You can read more about the two types of board construction in our review.
High-End Cutting Boards Last LongerSerious Eats / Vicky WasikWell-made cutting boards last longer than cheaper ones, and our senior culinary editor Daniel Gritzer has been using his Maple End Grain Boardsmith board for more than six years. Because end-grain boards have a natural self-healing quality, he reports that there is no visible deterioration in the surface quality, even though the board has gone through some periods of neglect.
So while our favorite cutting boards might be pricey, they are less likely to split, unlike the cheaper ones Daniel ordered for the Serious Eats kitchen that failed only after a few months.
Thicker Boards Stay True The thicker the cutting board, the truer it’ll stay—thinner cutting boards are at a higher risk of warping because there’s just less material to hold them straight. And the more material you use—you guessed it—the more expensive the cutting board becomes. Our picks from The Boardsmith and Brooklyn Butcher Blocks are both two inches thick, while our Ironwood Gorumet budget pick is only one-and-a-quarter inches thick. It may be less than half the cost, but it’s almost half as thick and will be more likely to warp if it absorbs too much water.
CustomizationSerious Eats / Vicky WasikBoth The Boardsmith and Brooklyn Butcher Blocks offer various levels of customization, like adding a juice groove, feet, or handles. It’s a great way to add a personal touch to a bigger investment: if you’re going to have one of these cutting boards for a long time, you might as well make it your own. Our updates editor Jacob Dean customized his end-grain board to be at least two inches thick and custom-sized to his countertop, with beveled edges that make it easier to pick up.
Since cheaper boards are made in bulk, these types of customizations aren’t possible. Our budget pick comes with feet attached, which we’re torn on: while rubber feet can prevent skidding, they also render one side of the board unusable as a cutting surface. With a custom order, you can make the choice on whether you want feet or not, which could double the workspace your cutting board offers.
So, Are Expensive Wood Cutting Boards Worth It? We think so! Our top picks from The Boardsmith and Brooklyn Butcher Blocks are made from high-end wood, and they’re gentler on your knives and last longer than many lower-cost options. If you do have a hard time with their price point, however, we also recommend this acacia option from Ironwood Gourmet. It won’t be up to the quality of our top picks, but it’ll still perform pretty well.
FAQsWhat is the best hardwood for a cutting board?The best hardwoods for cutting boards are maple, walnut, and cherry. All three have slightly different properties, but they’re all sturdy enough to prevent kitchen knives from making deep cuts while still being soft enough to be gentle on a knife’s edge.
Can I cut raw meat on a wooden cutting board?While you can cut raw meat on a wooden cutting board, it’s harder to sanitize and clean than a plastic cutting board. At the same time, older plastic cutting boards can have deep grooves that collect bacteria and are harder to clean, so be sure to throw out any cutting board once you start to see deeper knife marks showing up on its surface.
Should you seal a hardwood cutting board?Yes—hardwood is still porous, and an unseasoned cutting board risks swelling, cracking, and warping if it isn’t properly sealed with mineral oil. We have a guide to show you how to perform regular seasoning, and we recommend reasoning your cutting board whenever you notice drops of water are no longer beading on the surface.
Why do people prefer wooden cutting boards?Most professional kitchens use an array of plastic cutting boards because they’re easier to clean (and they’re cheaper, which matters when you need one board for each prep station), but at home, many chefs and professional cooks prefer wood. Wooden cutting boards are versatile and they’re easier on knives. If someone has a collection of high-end knives that they’d like to protect, a wooden cutting board is the best choice. They also come in a variety of sizes and shapes, and high-end wooden cutting boards can be customized to the user's liking.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishChicken and rice is a combination that spans cultures and cuisines, and has won hearts across the world. It's a comforting, flavorful, and often economical pairing which takes two commonly available ingredients and makes them greater than they would have been alone. In fact, chicken and rice are such an amazing duo that they're featured heavily in Starch Madness 2023, Serious Eats' yearly event which has 64 rice dishes competing to see which reigns (starchly) supreme.
Below, we've put together a list of our favorite chicken with rice recipes, suitable for cooking any time of year. Your dinner table has never looked better!
Halal Cart-Style Chicken and Rice With White Sauce Diana ChistrugaThe chicken is marinated with herbs, lemon, and spices; the rice golden; the sauce, as white and creamy as ever.
Hainanese Chicken Rice SetSerious Eats / Fred HardyThis dish is a Singaporean staple made up of moist chicken, aromatic rice, and tender bok choy, finished with chile garlic sauce and kecap manis, a type of Indonesian sweetened soy sauce.
Dak Juk (Korean Chicken and Rice Porridge)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWarm, comforting, and deeply satisfying, this Korean rice porridge is perfect for when you're sick (and when you're not).
Samgyetang (Korean Rice-Stuffed Chicken Soup)Vicky WasikInstead of shreds of chicken and vegetables, this classic Korean chicken soup offers up whole small birds stuffed with sticky rice and aromatic goodies.
Galinhada Mineira (Brazilian Chicken and Rice From Minas Gerais)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis deeply comforting, one-pot meal consists of chicken and rice and is chock full of peas and carrots with plenty of garlic and onion.
Creole-Style Red Jambalaya With Chicken, Sausage, and ShrimpVicky WasikThis New Orleans classic is loaded with meat, seafood, and tomatoes.
Katsudon (Japanese Chicken or Pork Cutlet and Egg Rice Bowl)Serious Eats / Fred HardyKatsudon is a Japanese comfort food classic that smothers fried cutlets with seasoned dashi and lightly cooked egg.
Nicaraguan Arroz con PolloSerious Eats / Qi AiThis deeply savory version of chicken and rice gets studded with smoked sausage, ham, olives, capers, carrots, and peas.
Grilled Paella Mixta (Mixed Paella With Chicken and Seafood)Vicky WasikThis famed seafood-and-meat paella may not be traditional, but it's a favorite for good reason, as is our chicken and pork version.
Oyakodon (Japanese Chicken and Egg Rice Bowl)Serious Eats / Qi AiQuick and simple, this popular restaurant dish is easy to make at home.
Bengali Rice Porridge With Lentils and ChickenVicky WasikThis chicken-potato-red lentil porridge is bright with turmeric and seasoned with ginger, a pungent hit of mustard oil, and a garnish of spicy green chutney.
Hashweh (Palestinian Spiced Rice and Meat)Serious Eats / Mai KakishSpices bloomed in ghee add complexity to this celebratory Palestinian dish.
Maqlubeh (Palestinian "Upside Down" Meat, Vegetables, and Rice)Serious Eats / Mai KakishMaqlubeh features layers of meat, fried vegetables, and spiced rice flipped over to reveal a complete and festive meal.
Classic Chicken and Rice SoupTim ChinThe beauty of this comforting classic is all in the details.
Arroz Caldo (Filipino Chicken and Rice Soup)Melissa HomA hearty, congee-like chicken soup topped with eggs and crunchy fried garlic.
Chicken Donburi (Japanese Rice Bowl) With SpinachVicky WasikThis well-seasoned rice bowl is topped with crisp-skinned strips of chicken and sautéed spinach, along with shredded nori and fried garlic nubs which provide interesting texture and flavor.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianAs a thin, chewy-crisp flatbread with an aromatic, bright-red topping on it, lahmajun gets called “Armenian pizza” by non-Armenians all the time. This is fine, since it does give non-Armenians a solid point of reference for an otherwise unfamiliar dish, though the analogy really only goes so far. Where pizza is topped with cheese and a tomato-based sauce, lahmajun is cheeseless and topped with a thin layer of a lamb- or beef-based paste that is intensely flavored with chiles, tomato, aromatic onion, garlic, red bell pepper, parsley, and warm spices. The onion and bell pepper are finely ground and drained of excess water, so the topping emerges from the oven steaming and moist, but not wet. In this way, lahmajun is less like pizza and more like a ground meat kofta—an Armenian “hamburger," if you will—smooshed into a thin layer onto the bread. Nevertheless, lahmajun and pizza are both absolutely delicious, especially when eaten hot from the oven, and both are easy to make at home, provided you have the right recipe (namely, mine).
The Key Techniques for Properly Shaped, Tender FlatbreadsAs with many flatbreads (including pizza),the dough for lahmajun is rolled out thinly before being topped. But this poses a technical challenge. On the one hand, we want to roll out and shape the flatbread properly, but on the other, we want to prevent excessive gluten formation from overworking the dough, which can result in a tough or chewy texture. So, how does one get the dough rolled out and shaped properly without causing it to deform or get tough in the process? Over the years, I’ve come up with a bunch of strategies for flatbread success, several of which I employ here.
First, I mix the dough gently, without kneading of any kind, other than a short hand mixing in the bowl to get the ingredients fully combined. This might seem counterintuitive, since breads often require structure-building via kneading, but as long as you choose the right flour—bread flour, in this case, with its high percentage of gluten-forming proteins—you end up with more than enough structure to yield a chewy-crisp flatbread without calling for kneading.
Secondly, I shape the dough into balls after a brief room-temperature fermentation—about 90 minutes, just long enough to let the yeast in it wake up and the dough expand a bit—and then move them into the refrigerator. After that, they continue to ferment slowly, for at least eight hours (and up to 24 hours). Shaping the dough balls early on in a long fermentation gives the dough ample time to relax, which makes rolling it out easy, while also building flavor.
Cold-proofing shaped dough balls also builds a measure of convenience into the recipe, because you make the dough one day and bake them the next. Best of all, unlike many flatbreads, you roll out the lahmajun dough cold, straight from the fridge, so you can start baking as soon as the oven and baking surface is hot, without having to spend time letting the dough warm up before use.
Aside from flour, water, salt, and yeast, my dough formula contains a touch of vegetable oil for added tenderness and to promote crisping, along with a little sugar, to promote rapid browning.
How to Make a Flavorful—Not Wet—ToppingTo control the water content in the topping, I grind the onion and red bell pepper in a food processor along with a generous amount of salt; I then move the mixture to a strainer to drain for 10 minutes. The salt draws excess water from the vegetables, which drips through the strainer into a bowl below. This helps reduce a watery topping later.
After that, I return the drained mixture to the food processor, along with the remaining seasonings: parsley, red pepper paste (a.k.a. biber salçasi in Turkish—most brands are made there), tomato paste, a few garlic cloves, allspice, paprika, cumin, and black pepper. I process everything to a fine, even paste, then add the meat in small nuggets and pulse everything together until it just comes together, to retain some texture to the meat.
As for what type of meat to use, beef or lamb, that’s up to you. I like lamb best myself, but I’m Armenian, so that’s a given. No matter which you choose, try to find meat that is freshly ground with a coarse-but-even texture; usually this means going to a butcher. Classically, the topping for lahmajun was hand-minced with a knife (or a pair of them), which divides it finely without mashing it to an amorphous paste; using freshly ground meat is the next best thing to hand-mincing it. That said, if all you can find is prepackaged meat, use it! I do sometimes, and it works fine.
As with the dough, the topping can be made up to 24 hours ahead of time and kept in the refrigerator. You dowant to let it warm at room temperature for about 30 minutes before baking, since that will make it easier to spread without mashing or deforming the rolled-out dough.
How to Assemble and Bake LahmajunTraditionally, lahmajun is baked in blazing hot wood-fired ovens. The good news is that you can still make a great one in a home oven at a temperature of 500˚F (or 550˚F, if you are lucky enough to have an oven that goes that high), as long as you use a solid home pizza baking approach:
Cook them on a preheated baking stone or, preferably for more conductivity, a baking steel (heated at your maximum oven temperature at least 30 minutes for a steel or an hour for a stone), and placed high in the oven, which ensures rapid heating from both above and below, for even, quick cooking. Just make sure not to set the oven rack so high that it’s a challenge to get the lahmajun in and out; you want to give yourself four to five inches of headroom, which means either the top or second from the top rack position.
Once the surface is good and hot, you can get down to baking. Because the dough should be nice and relaxed by now, it won’t take much effort to pat and roll out. Be sure to use plenty of flour on the dough and the counter to prevent sticking, to avoid tearing or overworking it. It's best to roll from the center out, rotating the dough regularly, to keep the circle as round as possible. Once it is between 11 and 12 inches, move it to a floured peel.
Pro lahmajun bakers just smoosh the topping with their fingertips around the dough in a matter of seconds, but this takes lots and lots of practice to pull off without manhandling the dough and/or making an unsanitary mess. I use a different approach to minimize hand contact with the paste: You scoop the topping mixture in a 1/2 cup dry measuring cup and use a small spoon to distribute dollops of it evenly around the disc. You then use the back of the spoon and a fingertip to flatten the dollops and cover the dough completely, aside from a 1/8-inch-wide border.
Then it goes into the oven to bake until the crust is browned around the edges and on the underside, which takes about five minutes. (The topping will be steaming hot at this point, but it should not dry out or brown.) While one bakes you can roll out the next one, and all four flatbreads should take less than half an hour to complete.
Serving LahmajunLahmajun is great with little more than a squirt of fresh lemon juice as a foil for its richness. But it’s also often served with a crisp, cool, and tart vegetable salad, either as a side dish, or—better yet—as a filling to fold or wrap the flatbread around, burrito-style. One classic Armenian salad I like to use here is thinly-sliced red onion and parsley, dressed with ground sumac, lemon juice, and olive oil. To temper the pungency of the onion, I first soak it in boiling water for 5 minutes to pull off most of the intense sulfur compounds that form when it is cut.
Once you try it—it makes a great light lunch and is a welcome addition to a mezze spread—I think you’ll agree that while lahmajun and pizza are not the same, both are worth adding to your flatbread repertoire.
For the Dough: In a medium bowl, whisk together bread flour, yeast, sugar, and salt until thoroughly combined. In a separate medium bowl, combine water and 10g (2 teaspoons) oil. Add half of flour mixture to oil-water mixture and stir with a dough whisk or a whisk until a smooth batter forms. Add remaining flour mixture and stir with a whisk or knead by hand until a shaggy dough forms and no dry flour remains. Cover bowl with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianUsing lightly-moistened hands, knead dough in bowl gently until it tightens up, 10 to 20 seconds, then gather dough into a smooth ball. Cover bowl with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel and let stand at warm room temperature (75˚F/24˚C) until dough is puffy and about 1 1/2 times in volume, 1 to 2 hours.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianOn a lightly-floured work surface, divide dough into 4 equal portions (7 ounces; about 175g each). Add remaining 13g (1 tablespoon) oil to now-empty dough bowl and set aside. Shape each portion into a tight, smooth ball, making sure to seal seams on the underside tightly. Working one at a time, set each dough ball in the oil-containing bowl and, using your hands, turn to evenly coat the exterior. Transfer dough balls to a lightly-oiled rimmed baking sheet or individual containers (such as pint-sized deli containers), seam side down. Cover loosely but completely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianFor the Topping: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine bell pepper, onion, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Process, scraping down sides of bowl as needed, until finely chopped, 10 to 20 seconds. Transfer mixture to a fine-mesh strainer set over a medium bowl and let drain for at least 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianUsing a flexible spatula, press on onion-pepper mixture to extract any remaining liquid, then return to food processor bowl; discard drained liquid. Add parsley, pepper paste, tomato paste, garlic, allspice, paprika, cumin, pepper, and remaining 3/4 teaspoon salt. Process, scraping down sides of bowl as needed, until mixture is finely chopped, 10 to 20 seconds.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianUsing your hands, break ground meat into walnut-sized chunks and distribute around bowl. Process, scraping down sides of bowl as needed, until mixture is just combined, 5 to 10 pulses. Transfer to an airtight container and use right away or refrigerate for up to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianFor the Salad (optional): Meanwhile, place red onion in a medium heatproof bowl, cover by at least 1 inch boiling water, and let stand for 5 minutes. Drain onion through a fine-mesh strainer then rinse for 10 seconds under cold running water and shake dry. Transfer to a clean kitchen towel or paper towel and pat dry. Return onion to now-empty bowl, along with parsley, sumac, olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Stir to combine, season with salt and pepper to taste, and set aside.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianTo Assemble and Bake the Lahmajun: One hour before baking, adjust an oven rack to the upper-middle position (rack should be 4 to 5 inches from broiler element), set a baking stone or steel on rack, and heat oven to 500˚F (or 550˚F, if your even allows it).
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianThirty minutes before baking, remove topping from refrigerator and allow to warm slightly at room temperature, about 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianDust tops of dough balls liberally with flour, then transfer to a well-floured work surface, seam side down. Working one at a time, use the heel of your hand to press a dough ball into a 5-inch disk. Using a rolling pin, gently roll the disk into an 11- to 12-inch round, adding flour to top and underside of dough and countertop as needed to prevent sticking.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianTransfer to a well-floured baking peel (or a rimless cookie sheet if you don't have a baking peel). Scatter one-quarter of topping (1/2 cup; 125g) evenly over top of dough in 1-teaspoon amounts. Using the back of a spoon and your fingertips, gently flatten and spread topping into an even layer, leaving 1/8-inch border untopped.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianShake peel to loosen dough, then carefully slide lahmajun onto baking stone. Bake until bottom crust is browned and upper edges are lightly browned, 4 to 6 minutes. While lahmajun bakes, begin rolling next dough ball. Transfer baked lahmajun to a wire rack, stacking or overlapping them on the wire rack as they're finished. Repeat assembling and baking steps with the remaining dough balls and topping.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianOnce all 4 lahmajun are baked, return them to the oven, overlapping them to fit on the stone, until reheated, about 2 minutes (alternatively, you can eat them warm, room temperature, or cold—lahmajun are great at all temperatures). Serve lahmajun with onion-parsley salad, if desired, and lemon wedges.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianSpecial EquipmentKitchen scale, food processor, rolling pin (preferably straight), baking steel or stone, wide pizza peel or rimless baking sheet, wire rack
NotesFor best results, use a digital scale set in grams to measure ingredients for the dough. For the yeast, using a jeweler’s scale will give you the most precise measurement possible.
Biber salçasi can be found in Middle Eastern grocery stores or online. If unavailable, increase volume of tomato paste to 3 tablespoons, paprika to 4 teaspoons, and add 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper.
Ground sumac can be found at Middle Eastern markets or online.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe topping and salad can be made up to 24 hours in advance and refrigerated separately in airtight containers. Bring the salad to room temperature before serving.
To reheat lahmajun, place pairs of them on a baking sheet face to face (topping sides in contact with one another) and transfer to a 300˚F oven until hot and crisp, 10 to 12 minutes.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThe first time I ate an albondiga de ricotta it was an accident. My dinner partner and I were at our neighborhood bodegón, Albamonte, a sixty year-old, Italo-Hispano restaurant in the middle of Buenos Aires. We’d already made it halfway through a bottle of wine when the waiter approached the table to announce that the kitchen had run out of lasagna. We needed to order something else. The waiter planted himself firmly at the head of the table and stared blankly into the dining room whilst listing off every single dish on the menu over the din of the full house. A world of different pastas, sauces, appetizers, breaded meats, shellfish, and pizzas blended into one another, neither of us sure where the name of one dish ended and the next began. I heard ‘albondigas’ and ‘ricotta,’ yelped ‘¡ese!’ and felt the knot in my stomach dissolve as the waiter traipsed back to the kitchen.
“I’m sorry. I let the pressure get the best of me,” I told Evy. “I don’t even like ricotta very much.”
We assumed we were ordering albondigas con ricotta, not thinking through the important difference between the Spanish prepositions ‘con’ and ‘de’: meatballs with (con) ricotta versus balls made from (de) ricotta. Meatballs are a common dish across Buenos Aires’ traditional restaurant scene; places that lean more towards Spanish roots spoon them over rice while the Italians serve them smothered in red sauce.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThe waiter quickly returned with a metal dish that looked like the latter: A trio of breaded balls and a bubbling tomato sauce. Sans ricotta.
“Wait, but?” Evy started. Before she could finish her sentence, the waiter had already disappeared.
We dug in and realized our error when our forks offered little resistance to reveal a fluffy, eggshell white interior. The meatball is the ricotta, we laughed. It was divine: soft, flavored with specks of herbs and nutmeg, and the perfect vehicle to shovel a thick, garlicky red sauce onto our taste buds. We finished right as our waiter returned with our next plate.
I had a lot of questions: Where was this dish from? Why had I never seen it before? What do they use to bind the ricotta? Are the breadcrumbs and ricotta seasoned with the same spices? I could’ve continued but the waiter shrugged his shoulders, told us, "Yeah, they’re really good," and moved to the next table.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikAfter a bland first attempt at home, it was abundantly clear that ricotta is similar to tempeh or tofu: It’s an ingredient that offers texture more than flavor. I had to overwhelm it with loud herbs and spices, and top it with an equally boisterous sauce. I called María Antonieta Brignardello, a third-generation pasta maker and owner of vegan pasta business Potoca. She recommended that I start with the holy trinity of abuela-style Argentine cooking: nutmeg, white pepper, and paprika. Potoca also serves their pasta with nutritional yeast flavored with different herbs—it was an idea that inspired me to add a second cheese to mine, one with a saltier flavor that the ricotta lacks.
I tried a variety of cheeses to see which I liked best. I knew I didn’t want a fresh or soft cheese that would melt down and fall apart once it hit the heat. It needed to stay firm and hold the texture of a meatball. Pecorino Romano, with its high melting point, offered the right sharp cheese flavor without breaking down and sacrificing the balls' structure. To complete my flavor-boosting mission, I accented the ricotta mixture with fresh parsley, lemon zest, lemon juice.
The original dish was served with a simple red sauce but to continue to kick up flavors, I decided to serve mine with a putanesca-like sauce, thick with tomato, chunky black olives, and capers. The final result wasn’t a mirror image of that very first bite back at Albamonte, but it had the surprise delicious factor all the same.
For the Tomato Sauce: In a 5-quart Dutch oven, combine olive oil and garlic and set over medium heat. Cook, stirring often, until garlic just begins to turn very lightly golden. Stir in olives and capers and cook until just heated through, about 45 seconds.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikStir in canned tomatoes and their juices, thyme, oregano, and white pepper. Using a wooden spoon, break up tomatoes until large chunks. Season lightly with salt, then bring to a simmer, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring often, until sauce has darkened and thickened to a chunky texture, about 45 minutes. Transfer sauce to a heatproof container and set aside. Wash and dry Dutch oven.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikMeanwhile, for the Ricotta Balls: In a large mixing bowl, combine ricotta, Pecorino Romano, half the parsley, lemon juice and zest, 1 teaspoon white pepper, and nutmeg, and stir until thoroughly combined. Season generously with salt. Add flour, and, using a clean hand, knead into ricotta mixture until a moist but not sticky ball forms; mix in more flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, if necessary. Let stand 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIn a small mixing bowl, stir together breadcrumbs with remaining parsley, remaining 1/2 teaspoon white pepper, and a large pinch of salt. Place beaten egg in a second small bowl.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikUsing lightly moistened hands, roll ricotta mixture into golf ball–size balls (about 50g each). Transfer balls to a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate for 10 minutes.
Serious Eats /Vicky WasikHold a ricotta ball in your left hand and gently roll it in the beaten egg to coat. Lift ball, allowing excess egg to drip off, then gently set in breadcrumb mixture. Using your right hand, gently roll the ball in the breadcrumb mixture to evenly coat; you may need to lightly press breadcrumbs into ricotta ball to ensure they adhere. Return to parchment-lined baking sheet. Repeat with remaining ricotta balls.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIn a 5-quart Dutch oven, heat olive oil over medium heat until shimmering (a ricotta ball should being to lightly sizzle when lowered into it). Working in batches if necessary to avoid crowding the pot, fry ricotta balls, rotating every 1 to 2 minutes, until evenly browned all over, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spatula, transfer fried ricotta balls to a paper towel–lined tray.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikAdd sauce to olive oil in Dutch oven, stirring to combine. Bring to a simmer, then gently nestle fried ricotta balls into sauce, shaking pan gently to coat balls in sauce. Simmer gently until ricotta balls are heated through and their fried coating has absorbed some of the sauce, about 10 minutes. Coat evenly with Parmigiano-Reggiano, allow to melt slightly in the heat, then serve.
Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezIf you walk into a coffee shop, you might be inundated with choices; beans from all over the world may stock the shelves, boasting various and diverse tasting notes, from floral and fruity to chocolatey and smoky. But, more likely than not, the coffees on your local coffee shop shelf might have more in common than you think.
Almost all coffee can be divided into two sub-categories: arabica and robusta. Arabica (Coffea arabica) is a species of coffee that accounts for about 55% of all coffee grown, while robusta (Coffea canephora) makes up the other 45%. And, for the most part, coffee experts and roasters tend to gravitate towards arabica: it's generally regarded as better tasting. But a new wave of robusta enthusiasts is challenging why arabica has been the favored species for so long, pushing coffee pros and drinkers alike to consider robusta seriously.
Arabica vs. Robusta: What's the Difference? Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezCoffee beans are the seed of a fruit and, like other agricultural products, have several different species that fall under the umbrella genus of coffee. There are more than 100 different coffee species, but arabica and robusta account for almost all coffee grown, and they have distinct differences. You've likely had both species without knowing it: if you've ordered coffee at a coffee shop, you were probably sipping on arabica beans, while many instant coffee blends have been made from robusta beans. In some instances, coffee roasters have used robusta in espresso blends, but robusta beans have yet to receive top billing at most shops.
Generally, arabica coffee is more delicate and fruity and is the primary species grown in countries like Guatemala, Ethiopia, and Colombia, which are prized for their coffee cultivation. However, arabica beans can be challenging to grow and sensitive to fluctuations in growing conditions and plant diseases.
On the other hand, robusta tends to be heartier: it can grow at lower elevations, has roughly double the caffeine as arabica, and generally has more resistance to common coffee plant diseases. So why isn't it as popular? Robusta has been hampered by the perception of its flavor and quality in comparison to Arabica. "People usually associate robustas with a burnt rubber taste and an aftertaste of peanuts," says Namisha Parthasarathy, co-founder of Ārāmse, a coffee subscription service, and founder of a YouTube channel, who is based in Mysore, India.
Parthasarathy points out that ascribing one flavor profile to robusta beans is impossible because robusta is grown worldwide. Vietnam is the world leader in robusta production, and while robusta coffee is regularly brewed and sipped in-country, robusta also grows elsewhere, including Brazil, India, and Indonesia. However, robusta’s reputation was bad enough that many brands used marketing tactics like “100% arabica” to sell their coffees (McDonald's, for example, still uses this language to promote its McCafé line of drinks). For a long time—before there were coffee shops on every corner—robusta was in a lot of grocery blends you might find in cans and in instant coffee, which helped set the perception that it was inferior. “Indeed, the specialty-coffee boom of the 1990s—the demand shock that carried Starbucks to global dominance—came in reaction, and revulsion, to instant coffee made from robusta, which had been ubiquitous up until that point,” writes Alina Simone for The Atlantic.
However, the problem seems to be that we’ve never gotten past this initial judgment of robusta. “We will never find out what robusta’s potential is if we keep it shut up in a conceptual box constructed out of judgments concocted by well-meaning people 40 years ago,” Kenneth Davids, founder of the coffee evaluation site Coffee Review, told Simone.
It also doesn't help that arabica and robusta are often talked about in contrast to one another simply because no other coffee species are grown in the same abundance. "It's almost always been an answer to arabica in terms of growing difficulty—i.e., post coffee leaf rust (a coffee growing disease that kills plants that arabica is especially susceptible to)," Parthasarathy says. "So when it's viewed as this plan B for arabica, people just don't put any effort into seeing it for what it is and getting the most out of it. It's not sexy enough, so it suffers from a perception problem. That's the story that needs to change."
Changing Perceptions About Robusta CoffeeSerious Eats / Ashley RodriguezWhen Sahra Nguyen launched Nguyen Coffee Supply four years ago, she was fighting a coffee industry that generally looked down on robusta. "For folks who worked in the coffee industry, I definitely received some snarky remarks and skepticism, the tired narratives of 'robusta is gross, robusta is cheap, robusta is inferior,'" she says. She notes that not every comment was negative: she received some genuine questions from coffee people but noticed that people with no baggage associated with the term "robusta" were willing to try it out. "For folks who didn't understand the difference between arabica and robusta and weren't familiar with the binary narrative, they were very open-minded and excited to try something they previously didn't have access to."
Nguyen Coffee Supply is "America's first specialty Vietnamese coffee company and proud champion of the resilient robusta bean," according to their website, and part of Nguyen's success has been customers responding positively to their coffee beans. "Customers love our coffee—we publish 100% of reviews on our website so that you can see firsthand their positive reactions," she says. "Many people have said it's the best coffee they've ever had."
While Nguyen works with growers who produce both arabica and robusta beans, the company is still focused on elevating and exploring the potential of robusta—and getting the results into more people's hands, which is why they launched a series of ready-to-drink (RTD) coffee beverages made from 100% robusta beans earlier this year. Available in three flavors—classic black, coconut, and condensed milk, which is "an homage to the beloved cà phê sữa đá of Vietnam (the iconic 'Vietnamese iced coffee')"—cans can be ordered online and are also available in supermarkets and coffee shops across the US.
Of course, there are still skeptics questioning robusta's role in coffee. Still, Nguyen Coffee Supply's success—along with their public reviews, which you can find at the bottom of each product page—speaks to how varied coffee can be and the potential to explore new avenues. "Just as we're curious to try different wines or have a preference for white during a hot summer's day and maybe a bolder red with dinner," Parthasarathy says, "consumers should view robusta as an alternative offering in the world of coffee."
Nguyen agrees that robusta isn't about replacing or changing preferences but opening up new possibilities for consumers who have felt left out of the coffee conversation. "Coffee is personal and subjective, so we can't expect all consumers to like the same thing," she says. "Be mindful that robusta may or may not be for you personally, but including robusta in the conversation and investing in its potential is for the betterment of the whole."
The Future of RobustaSerious Eats / Ashley RodriguezChances are you've seen some alarming headlines about coffee and climate change. Numerous studies have come to an arrestingly dire conclusion: we're at pace to lose 50% of suitable growing areas for coffee by 2050.
Coffee is perhaps much more delicate than you might assume for a beverage charged with waking us up and inspiring us to hit the pedal to the metal. Like many agricultural goods, coffee is harvested in predictable, seasonal patterns (they can differ from country to country, but generally speaking, there is a rainy season of growth and nurturing and a dry one of flowering and harvesting) and just one climate event that falls out of line with projections could wield disastrous consequences, from coffees tasting subpar to farmers losing significant portions of their crop.
Robusta tends to be regarded as heartier, although some studies suggest that robusta might be more sensitive to climate change than previously known. While it's unclear if robusta can be a solution to the effects of climate change on coffee, it's clear that taking it seriously could advance farmers' lives, particularly in countries where robusta is the main coffee crop. "Paying attention to robusta is about investing in the future of coffee and all coffee-growing communities," Nguyen says. She also noted that the “robusta is bad” refrain can quickly become a self-fulfilling prophecy: writing off an entire segment of coffee can cause divestment of resources. This is a big deal in coffee, where investment and care are fundamental to quality. "By elevating the robusta coffee experience, we're able to uplift an entire segment of the coffee industry that has historically been excluded from opportunities to elevate their crop and livelihoods."
Other roasters are beginning to explore the potential for robusta. Blue Bottle Coffee just released its first blend specifically designed to highlight the smoky flavors of robusta (it's important to note that roasters have likely been using robustas in blends without naming the beans, keeping robusta anonymous). "This blend stands to question everything the world believes about the robusta species," the company said in an Instagram post, and others note that we're in the very beginning stages of understanding the potential of robusta. (Note: the Robusta Blend No. 1 is currently sold out, but Blue Bottle still features robusta in 17ft Ceiling, which is one of their flagship blends.) "[Robusta is] newer (first seen around 1870 in the Congo and 350+ years after arabica), so we just don't know as much," says Parthasarathy. "We're so early in the robusta process, and it's an exciting time. But it's slow going. The key to coming out of this climate crisis in coffee is to be open and appreciate variance and quirks in coffee rather than the forced consistency we are taught to love."
FAQsWhat is robusta coffee? Robusta is a species of coffee. There are over 10,000 species of coffee, but the two most popular are arabica and robusta. Robusta is often talked about in contrast to arabica: it has double the caffeine of arabica beans and is generally thought of as easier to grow (arabica thrives at higher elevations, which can make it more difficult to harvest, while robusta can tolerate lower elevations). It's also more resistant to diseases that can harm coffee crops.
Where is robusta coffee grown? Vietnam is the world’s leader in robusta production, and you can also find robusta beans growing in Brazil, India, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.
Where can you buy robusta coffee beans? You wouldn’t go into a coffee shop and ask for robusta beans—most coffee shops use arabica beans. You might see some coffee brands advertise their coffee has “double the caffeine,” which might be shorthand for the fact they’re using robusta, but unless they offer information about where the coffee is sourced from, I’d suggest steering clear of these companies. It’s best to try robusta coffee from brands that specialize in robusta sourcing or have a well-established coffee sourcing program, like Nguyen Coffee Supply or Blue Bottle.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerThere are few kitchen tasks that bring me greater joy than breaking down a chicken. Not only is it cheaper than buying poultry by the piece, but it also encourages me to use every bit. When I’m done with the meat, I still have the resource-rich trimmings with which I can make stock and render the fat. (Have you ever drizzled chicken schmaltz over popcorn? Because you should.)
Sure, you can conquer a chicken with a chef’s knife—but a boning knife is specifically designed for the job. The long blade can cleanly slice the breast off of the ribs in a few strokes, and the sharp tip can be inserted into the joints to separate the legs and wings. Of course, a boning knife is not only for chicken. It can also be used to remove the skin from fish fillets, debone and trim silverskin off of pork roasts, and cut your own steaks. Tough-skinned produce like melons and squash? A boning knife can slice the thick rinds off with no problem.
Because they can be used for many tasks, boning knife blades come on a scale from rigid to downright bendy. Stiffer blades can stand up to larger cuts of meat and cut through thick joints, whereas flexible knives are better suited for detail work. For most cooks (who aren’t dealing with whole beef or pork primals at home), boning knives are more versatile for cutting aroundsmaller bones and sliding between joints, like the aforementioned chicken legs, or cutting a rack of lamb into chops.
For this review, I focused on boning knives with flexible blades that were between 5 and 6.5 inches long. Their costs ranged from $14 to $170. I preferred blades that were more pliant and judged them on their ability to contour around bones to access the maximum amount of meat. While the shape and balance of a knife’s handle can be a matter of personal preference, I prioritized grip when my hands became wet or greasy from what I was cutting. The competition was tight, and almost every model had something that set it apart from the rest. The winning knives ultimately stood out because they balanced all three of my top factors: a razor-sharp edge, an agile blade, and a comfortable grip.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Victorinox knife was an all-around pleasure to use. Its blade was flexible enough to conquer each task with ease, plus it was super sharp. The handle was textured, which allowed for superior grip, even when my hands had water or grease on them.
This model kept a keen edge throughout testing and was the most flexible of the lineup. It made larger tasks—like carving whole chickens or deboning a pork shoulder—simple and fast.
The TestsSerious Eats / Ashlee Redger Blade Sharpness Tests: I used a professional blade edge tester to measure the sharpness of each knife right out of the box. I tested all of the edges again at the end to see if any dulled after use. I measured the force (in grams) necessary for the knife to sever a calibrated plastic wire. The lower the score, the sharper the knife. * Debone Chicken Thigh Test: I deboned a chicken thigh with each knife to determine its maneuverability and nimbleness. After this assessment, only the highest-performing knives moved onto the subsequent tests. * Trim Pork Tenderloin Test (Winners-Only): To measure control, I trimmed a pork tenderloin with each knife and judged how well it could cleanly remove thin layers of fat and silverskin. * Bone-In Pork Shoulder Test (Winners-Only): I deboned and butterflied a pork shoulder with each knife to test its ability to dexterously navigate and flex around a large, multi-sided bone. I also trimmed off excess fat and silverskin around the remaining meat. * Rotisserie Chicken Test (Winners-Only): I carved store-bought rotisserie chickens with the top performers. With each model, I observed how deft it was at slipping through cartilage to separate joints. I also assessed if the blade’s flexibility allowed it to curve around the breast bones to yield as much usable meat as possible. Lastly, I noted if the knife’s handle became slippery after it was coated in grease from the chicken. * Cleaning and Usability Tests: I hand-washed and dried the knives after each test to evaluate how easy they were to clean and if any displayed rusting or staining. While a few of the models tested were technically* dishwasher safe, hand-washing was strongly recommended for all of them—and it’s what we recommend here at Serious Eats. I also judged each knife on how comfortable and natural it felt in my hand during use.
What We LearnedGreater Flexibility Was Better for Getting Around BonesSerious Eats / Ashlee RedgerDuring testing, I preferred blades that were supple and that easily flexed while slicing. The ZWILLING Pro 5.5-inch Flexible Boning Knife and Victorinox Fibrox Pro 6-Inch Boning Knife were both great examples of this—they perfectly conformed to the breast and rib bones in the rotisserie chicken test to slice off every bit of white meat.
The Global 6.25” Boning Knife was the most flexible of the bunch. Its long blade was able to contour around the big, twisted bone of the pork shoulder without difficulty. On the other hand, the Wüsthof Classic 5” Boning Knife made the task difficult. Its short length and light flexibility were great for deboning chicken thighs and trimming pork loin, but it didn’t have the reach or the litheness to slice around the pork scapula without carving out extra meat.
Straight Blades Were Easier to UseSerious Eats / Ashlee RedgerTwo of the models I tested had curved spines that arched upwards toward the tip: the Shun Cutlery Premier 6” Boning & Fillet Knife and the Messermeister Pro Series 6-inch Flexible Curved Boning Knife. This is a common silhouette for both boning and filleting knives as it creates a longer bottom edge without making the knife feel lengthy and unbalanced. It can make some special tasks easier—for example, removing the skin from a long piece of fish—as it allows the knife to cut further along the meat in a single, smooth stroke. I preferred the versatility of straighter knives, though, which had level spines from tip to bolster. The straight blades were more predictable and easier to maneuver around small chicken bones. Their tips were also better at removing pockets of fat and made it easy to insert the blades into hard-to-reach joints.
Handle Design Was Important for Comfort and SafetyWe liked the rounded, grippy handle on the Victorinox boning knife.Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerAs with all knives, what makes a handle feel comfortable varies depending on who is holding it. In contrast with a chef’s knife where you basically maintain a single grip from start to finish, I looked for boning knife handles that made it easy to alternate my hold depending on which direction I was cutting. This helped when I was pressing the blade against a bone, trimming off a horizontal layer of silverskin, or directing the tip down into a joint.
I loved the rounded handle of the Kasumi Flexible Boning Knife and could easily shift my hold on it when it was dry. Once my hand got wet, though, it became difficult to get a safe grasp on the smooth, cylindrical handle. Comparatively, the Dexter Russell Sani-Safe 6” Flexible Boning Knife had a rough textured handle that made it feel secure, but its oversized bolster and indented handle made it awkward to move around.
The Victorinox offered the best middle ground. Its thermoplastic rubber handle was grippy enough to feel secure (even when it was coated in chicken fat) while its rounded shape was comfortable to reposition in my hand. The stainless steel handle of the Global did get a little slippery during the rotisserie chicken test, but the dimples in the handle helped provide enough grip so it did not become dangerously slick.
Sharper Was BetterSerious Eats / Ashlee RedgerUnsurprisingly, boning knives that were sharper performed better. The two sharpest knives were the Wüsthof and the Victorinox, which both scored around 100 on the out-of-the-box sharpness test (remember, lower scores are better here). Both of the knives easily slipped through cartilage and beneath thin silverskin, and they weren’t the only ones. More than half of the models maintained a sharpness score below 150, even after cutting against bones in later tests. Duller knives like the Dexter Russell and the BergHOFF Soft Grip 6” Narrow Flexible Boning Knife had a hard time slicing through slippery chicken skin and under thin layers of fat, so they were quickly knocked out in the early rounds of testing.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Boning KnifeSerious Eats / Ashlee Redger / Grace KellyA good boning knife should have a blade that is supple enough to curve around bones and cleanly slice off meat. Its spine should be straight rather than curved for better accuracy and ease of use. The sharper the knife’s edge, the better it is at separating joints and trimming off fat or silverskin. Rounded handles make the knife more comfortable to hold and shift positions, while a grippy texture provides extra safety from slips.
What we liked: Like many of its competitors, this knife was super sharp. It effortlessly sliced through joints and shaved off silverskin and fat without cutting away excess meat. It had enough flexibility to contour around bones, both big and small. But what truly set it above the rest was its handle, which was textured and provided grip even when it was wet or coated with chicken fat.
What we didn’t like: Although the rubberized handle texture provided a secure grip, I found the broad handle to be a tad bulky.
Price at time of publish: $22.
Key Specs Weight: 2.85 ounces (81 grams) * Handle material: Thermoplastic rubber * Blade material: High carbon stainless steel * Blade length: 6 inches * Blade height at broadest part: 0.75 inches * Spine thickness at widest point: 1.25 millimeters * Handle length: 5 inches * Handle width at widest point: 1.25 inches * Out-of-the-box sharpness average: 102 (utility razor blade-sharp) * After-testing sharpness average:* 125
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerWhat we liked: This knife’s sharp edge took no coaxing to slice into thick pork shoulder and trim off thin pieces of silverskin. The Global also had the most flexible blade of the lineup, which hugged chicken and pork bones as it glided around them.
What we didn’t like: This knife is made from a single piece of stainless steel. While the unbolstered handle is dimpled to provide some grip, the metal still got a little slippery when my hand was wet. The bendy blade was also quite long. This makes it ideal for turkey, pork, or filleting whole fish, but less suited for small tasks like deboning single chicken thighs. Compared to the Victorinox, it’s also quite pricey.
Price at time of publish: $110.
Key Specs Weight: 4.4 ounces (125 grams) * Handle & blade material: CROMOVA 18 stainless steel (a blend of chromium, molybdenum, and vanadium that is exclusive to GLOBAL) * Blade length: 6.25 inches * Blade height at broadest part: 0.75 inches * Spine thickness at widest point: 2 millimeters * Handle length: 5 inches * Handle width at widest point: 1.13 inches * Out-of-the-box sharpness average: 115 (utility razor blade-sharp) * After-testing sharpness average:* 115
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerThe Competition* ZWILLING Pro 5.5-inch Flexible Boning Knife: This model made it to the final round and performed nearly as well as the winners in every test. Its shorter blade made it easy to maneuver and had similar flexibility to the Victorinox. It was more expensive than both winners, though, and not quite as sharp. Its handle also became a little slippery during the rotisserie chicken test. * Kasumi Flexible Boning Knife: The Kasumi had a honed edge and effortlessly flexed its way around the bone in the pork shoulder test. Its major downside was its smooth, cylindrical handle, which became impossible to get a secure grasp on when it was wet. * BergHOFF Soft Grip 6” Narrow Flexible Boning Knife: The BergHOFF had the dullest edge of the lineup before and after testing, which made it less smooth when cutting through skin and cartilage. * Wüsthof Classic 5” Boning Knife: Although its edge got the best score in the sharpness tests (just a hair sharper than our overall winner), the shorter blade was not dextrous enough to maneuver around the bone in the pork shoulder without removing extra pieces of meat. * Shun Cutlery Premier 6” Boning & Fillet Knife: The Shun knife was keen and stunning in appearance, but the curved blade was unyieldingly rigid and difficult to use for precise cuts. * Messermeister Pro Series 6-inch Flexible Curved Boning Knife: Although it was less stiff than the Shun model, I still found the curved tip of the Messermeister awkward to aim and maneuver during the chicken thigh test. * Mercer Culinary Renaissance Flexible Boning Knife: This model’s performance did not stand out from its competitors. It was decently flexible but had some trouble cutting through slippery chicken thigh skin. * Dexter Russell Sani-Safe 6” Flexible Boning Knife: The handle on this knife was built for safety: it had a thick bolster guard separating one’s hand from the blade and was textured to provide grip. Unfortunately, it also felt clunky and hindered dexterity.
FAQsWhat is a boning knife used for?Boning knives are used for deboning, trimming, and slicing all kinds of animal (or fish) proteins. Their narrow blades can range from rigid (for cutting through thick cartilage) to flexible (for bending between bones and the surrounding meat). The knives can be straight or curved upwards at the spine. One of the defining features of a boning knife is its small, sharp tip, which is designed to be inserted down into joints to sever the connective tissues within.
What is the best size for a boning knife?Boning knives tend to be between five to seven inches long. The best size depends on user preference and task: longer knives can have a greater range of flexibility and are best for deboning beef, pork, game meats, and breaking down whole poultry or fish. Shorter knives are often less flexible and are adept at deboning chicken legs, filleting small fish, or even peeling hardy fruits like pineapple.
What is the best way to clean a boning knife?Hand-washing is recommended for all knives. Use mild dish soap, a non-scratch sponge, and warm water. Once the knife is clean, dry it immediately to prevent rusting. Store all knives in a protected place, like on a magnetic knife strip or in a cork-lined dock, to prevent damage to your blades (and fingers).
How do you sharpen a boning knife?Contact with hard surfaces like bones can dull a knife’s edge quickly, so it’s important to keep your boning knife sharp to keep it working efficiently. You can use a whetstone to sharpen your blade at home. Whetting any knife at home can take practice; the process varies depending on the shape and material of the individual knife, as well as personal preference for bevel and edge finish. If you don’t have the time or equipment to sharpen at home, a professional sharpener can expertly file the blade for you. Either way, we recommend a honing rod for maintaining the edge between sharpenings.
What is the difference between a boning knife and a filleting knife?Boning and filleting knives look very similar and are often used interchangeably. Both have long, thin blades—the edges of which can be either curved or straight. Boning knives are generally slightly thicker and sturdier so they stand up to hard bones and denser cuts of meat. They can be flexible, stiff, or somewhere in between. Filleting knives are usually longer than boning knives (as well as more flexible) and are primarily used for removing the skin and bones from delicate pieces of fish.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn Japanese, the word “sushi” literally translates to “sour rice” and refers to an ancient preservation technique used to store fish before refrigeration was available. Typically, when sushi is mentioned, sliced raw fish—be it a fatty piece of tuna or salmon—comes to mind. And the vehicle for that fish, the rice, is often overlooked. This is the exact opposite of how a skilled sushi chef thinks, for whom making great sushi is largely about the rice. Regardless of how fresh and delicious the seafood is, the sushi will ultimately suffer if the rice isn’t up to par. Consider the simplicity of a piece of nigiri sushi, where there are often only four components (the rice, fish, soy sauce, and wasabi). There simply is no way to mask bad sushi rice.
While the recipe I share here is intended for the home cook, it is informed by my own professional experience cooking in some of the best sushi restaurants in the world, including three and a half years at Masa in New York City, and now Joji, an omakase restaurant in midtown helmed by George Ruan, a Masa veteran and alum. Some of the details in this recipe may seem a bit nitpicky—certainly more fastidious than many sushi rice recipes you're likely to see online—but they're details that I promise will make a difference. There's no question that it can take years of focused study and practice to become an expert in the art of sushi and rice, but even in novice hands, these rice-making techniques are worth applying for best results.
Choosing Rice for SushiFor sumeshi, you’ll want to use Japanese short-grain rice, such as koshihikari, one of the most well-known and highly regarded varieties. There are many other artisanal varieties of short-grain sushi rice available, but koshihikari is widely available while still being a very high-quality product. It’s important to use short-grain rice because its higher levels of more glutinous amylopectin starch (as opposed to the dryer-cooking amylose found in fluffy varieties like jasmine and basmati) allow the rice to stick together, and its small, plump shape allows it to absorb liquid much better than thinner medium and long-grain rice varieties. (If you really want to do a deep dive into Japanese heirloom grains, check out The Rice Factory in upstate New York. They import and mill Japanese varieties that may be difficult to find elsewhere, like yumepirika, oboruzuki, and nanatsuboshi.)
The Importance WaterThough often overlooked, the water in which the rice is cooked is important. In rice cookery, there are only two ingredients—rice and water—and it’s worth taking the time to make sure both are good quality. In my own time as a cook in sushi restaurants, I know of at least one elite sushi chef in New York City who only uses Evian water to cook his rice, due to the water’s exacting nature of a 7.2 pH level and natural minerality. I’m not saying that you need to get all Bill Nye and measure the pH of your water to make sushi rice at home, but I do recommend that you cook with water that’s filtered, drinkable, and tastes good. When in doubt, just use your favorite brand of bottled water or filtered tap water.
Sushi Rice Seasoning VinegarOnce the rice is cooked, it needs to be seasoned with seasoned vinegar—sushi, whether nigiri, maki, or hand rolls, is not made with plain rice. There are as many sushi vinegar recipes as there are sushi restaurants, and how it’s made ultimately depends on that particular chef’s preferences; it's not uncommon for some sushi chefs to treat their seasoned vinegar recipe as a closely guarded secret. The essential ingredients of sushi vinegar are salt, sugar, and kombu, a dried kelp that contains natural salinity and minerality from the ocean. The salt and sugar are there to balance the sharpness and acidity of the vinegar while the kombu provides an umami undertone that adds an element of savory flavor. How each recipe tends to differ from the next lies in the specific ratios of those ingredients, and the exact type and brand of each.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSome sushi vinegar recipes call for traditional light rice vinegar, but there are other types of vinegar one can use, such as darker red ones called akazu. Made with sake lees, akazu carries a premium price tag and adds a different flavor profile and darker pigment for the rice. The recipe I'm sharing here uses light rice vinegar, which produces a versatile sushi rice that can be used in any application. Akazu, on the other hand, is more particular and especially useful when trying to accentuate certain types of fish. For example, if a restaurant serves a lot of hikarimono (silver-skinned fish like mackerel), akazu-seasoned rice may be used just for those types of fish. Of course, these are just generalizations and the specific choices will depend on the sushi chef, but for most home cooks, I think basic light rice vinegar is the way to go.
How to Season Sushi RiceWhen mixing and seasoning sushi rice, it’s important to be as quick and efficient as possible. Time and temperature are key, as the rice is at peak absorption levels when it’s freshly out of the cooking vessel and still hot. As soon as the vinegar hits the rice, your work begins. The goal is to incorporate the seasoned vinegar into the rice as evenly as possible without overworking or damaging the rice. The specific technique relies on a rice paddle or wooden spoon to deftly cut through and turn the rice, not mash it into submission. Your grip should be firm, but the strokes gentle and intentional, and your eyes should be zeroing in on any clumps of rice that need to be broken up, while avoiding any already-mixed portions so as not to overwork them. This will result in rice that is evenly seasoned, has no clumps or broken grains, and is airy and light, versus starchy, damp, and heavy.
In the end, this is the same process I use to make sushi rice at work, just with more easily accessible, though still good-quality, ingredients. In time, you may might want to experiment with ingredients like akazu vinegar, johakuto (a fine, slightly moist white sugar), or yakishio (roasted sea salt), but you don’t necessarily need the most premium products as long as you’ve got the technique down.
For the Sushi Vinegar: In a stainless-steel bowl, whisk together the rice vinegar, salt, and sugar. Pour the solution into a nonreactive, airtight container and add kombu, making sure it is fully submerged. Allow kombu to infuse at room temperature for 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Rice: The next day, place rice in a large bowl and add enough cold water to cover. Using your fingers, gently massage and swish the grains in a circular motion until the water turns cloudy, about 30 seconds. Drain through a fine-mesh strainer, then refill the bowl with fresh water and repeat rinsing and draining until the water runs clear.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer rice to the fine-mesh strainer and set it atop the bowl used to rinse the rice. Run the rice under cold water for 2 to 3 minutes, allowing the bowl to overflow and spill over. Lightly agitate the rice as the water continues to run, which should help to filter out any small shards of broken rice grains (these can make sushi rice sticky/gummy if not removed, even if the rice is otherwise correctly cooked).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTurn off the water and empty the bowl. Allow the rice to drain and air dry in the strainer for 10 minutes with the empty bowl beneath to catch any excess water.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf using a rice cooker,add the rice and filtered water to the pot of a rice cooker and, using your fingers, evenly disperse the grains. If your cooker has a “sushi rice” setting, set it to that and cook. Otherwise use the standard white rice setting.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIf cooking rice on the stove-top, place the rice and filtered water in a 2- to 3-quart heavy-bottomed pot and give the pot a good shake to level the rice. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, lower to a gentle simmer, then cover and cook until water is fully absorbed, about 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow the rice to steam, covered, for an additional 10 minutes.
Measure 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (50ml) sushi vinegar. Transfer hot rice into a wide, non-reactive container, such as a traditional wooden sushi oke/hangiri or 9-by 13-inch glass or ceramic baking dish; make sure not to transfer any crusty rice from the cooking pot (you can save this rice to be eaten separately, but it will ruin the sushi rice if not removed).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezHold a rice paddle or wooden spoon at a 45º angle above the rice. Slowly add the measured amount of sushi vinegar directly onto the paddle while waving the paddle back and forth to scatter and evenly distribute the vinegar onto the hot rice. Using long, sweeping strokes, smooth the rice into a flat even layer, gently breaking up any clumps as you go.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOnce the rice is flat and all of the large clumps have been separated, push the rice into a pile on the side of the container nearest to you. Scoop the rice in small clusters, about the size of your paddle, and flip them towards the empty side of the container. Using swift cutting motions, gently break up the flipped clusters with your paddle as you go, specifically looking for small rice clumps. (These smaller clumps are unseasoned; separating and flipping the rice ensures each grain gets seasoned.) Continue this process until all of the grains have been separated and the rice is once again in a flat, even layer.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRest the rice for 4 minutes. Using the paddle, flip the rice from top to bottom in small portions until all the rice has been flipped. Let rest an additional 2 minutes. This step ensures the seasoned vinegar is evenly distributed at all depths of the rice.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe rice is now ready to use. If you used a rice cooker, clean the pot, line it with a clean damp towel, transfer the rice back into it, and set the rice cooker to the “warm” setting. Otherwise, cover the rice in the pot with a damp towel to prevent it from cooling too quickly and drying out. Use sushi rice as desired, preferably while still slightly warm.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentRice cooker or heavy-bottomed pot with lid, sushi oke or hangiri or a non-reactive container (such as a 9- by 13-inch baking dish), wooden spoon or plastic rice paddle
Notes* Be gentle when mixing the rice. Overmixing will result in extra sticky rice and smashed grains. * If your rice cools too much before serving, you can warm it in the microwave for a few seconds; slightly warm is preferable to serving the rice at room temperature. The temperature difference between the warm rice and cold fish adds to the eating experience. With overly cooled rice, the flavors are a bit muted and the texture of the rice is too firm. * If using a sushi oke or hangiri, make sure the bowl and paddle are moist before adding cooked rice to avoid grains sticking to the surface. To do this, fill the sushi oke or hangiri with warm water, discard it, then wipe up excess water with a clean towel before adding rice. * Using the crusty bits of rice on the bottom of the pot will result in unwanted clumps of rice. Discard them or set them aside for a crunchy snack.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe idea of stretching foods is known to every cuisine in the world. In Brazil, galinhada holds that idea right in its name. "Galinhada means a group of chickens, but the dish itself is usually just one chicken," my friend Tuzinho de Melo, who grew up in the Brazilian state of Minas Gerais where this version of the dish comes from, tells me. That chicken—the galinha—gets stretched in a single pot, its flavor infusing the ample rice and vegetables with which it cooks, to form a dish that is far more ample and filling than the bird alone.
And that really is the heart and soul of galinhada, to make the most of a single chicken, whether to feed the farmhands coming in after a hard day in the fields, friends and family for a Sunday lunch, or to welcome a guest with a generous plate of undeniable comfort. Because it's a relatively simple dish, success with galinhada relies on building layers of flavor and seasoning properly.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez"I think it's all about the salt, garlic, and onions," Pedro Ávila, another friend with roots in Minas, tells me. I've called both him and Tuzinho to get their opinions on what makes a quality galinhada, and also to make sure I hadn't misinterpreted some of what I'd picked up from my own recipe research. It was good I did, because I'd wrongly assumed the açafrão (saffron) I saw mentioned in multiple recipes was the famously expensive crocus threads, when in fact it was açafrão-da-terra—"earth saffron"—which is one of the ways of saying turmeric in Portuguese. That turmeric, if you use it, is often combined with annatto powder to tint the rice a vibrant orange-yellow color.
While those spices don't add a ton of flavor, those aromatics like garlic and onions certainly do, as does the critical first step of deeply browning the chicken to develop a roasted flavor that infuses the rice while releasing flavorful rendered chicken fat to coat every grain. Other common ingredients one is likely to find in a galinhada include diced carrot, peas, bell peppers, and corn (which, Tuzinho points out, is not the sweet corn we tend to eat in the United States; I have it listed as optional in the recipe below, and did use sweet corn in my own testing since that's much more readily available here).
Beyond those components, properly seasoning the rice is key. For many Brazilians, that includes adding flavor-enhancers like tempero, a wide range of seasonings and condiments that perform a function similar to sofrito or sazón. But since tempero would require either a trip to a Brazilian grocer or a sub-recipe, I've opted to add plenty of garlic to my recipe, am recommending using chicken stock or broth instead of the more-common water in Brazilian recipes, and pre-season that stock with salt to ensure the rice is sufficiently and evenly seasoned. A little sweet paprika in my recipe also adds some subtle spicing, another nod to the kinds of flavor tempero helps add.
As for the rice, I'm calling for parboiled grains, which have been par-cooked and then dried by the manufacturer; when cooked (technically for the second time), the grains remain plump yet firm and are less likely to stick together into gluey clumps, another important quality in a good galinhada. "If your rice sticks together—we call it barroso," says Tuzinho. "That is not a good thing."
In a large measuring cup, combine stock and the 2 teaspoons salt and stir until salt is dissolved. Set aside.
Season chicken all over with salt and pepper. In a 5- or 6-quart Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add chicken and cook, turning occasionally, until very well browned, about 10 minutes. Lower heat, stir in turmeric (if using), annatto, and paprika, followed by garlic, carrot, and onion. Season with salt, then cook, stirring and scraping any browned bits from bottom of pot, until softened, about 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezStir in rice and cook until thoroughly coated in oil and seasoning and heated through, about 2 minutes. Add stock along with frozen peas and corn (if using), scraping down sides of pot to ensure all rice grains are submerged. Bring to a boil, then cover, reduce heat to low, and cook until liquid is absorbed and rice is just tender, about 25 minutes (or following cooking time on rice package directions).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRemove from heat, stir in scallions, then let stand, covered, 10 minutes. Serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment5- or 6-quart Dutch oven
NotesTraditionally, this dish would be made with a whole free-range country chicken (a "galinha caipira" in Brazilian Portuguese), though dark meat like thighs and drumsticks remains more tender in a dish like this than white meat. We like using thighs and drumsticks, but feel free to use a small whole chicken or other chicken parts like bone-in breast, if that's your preference. If you're able, we recommend splitting the chicken parts in half through the bone to make smaller pieces (you can do this with a cleaver, some high-quality kitchen shears with a bone notch, or by asking the butcher), but the recipe works just fine with the chicken pieces left intact.
Make-Ahead and StorageLeftover galinhada can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days. Reheat in the microwave.
Serious Eats / Michelle Yip“Keep going, belum pecah minyak lagi,” my mom would say—“Keep going, the oil hasn’t split yet.” My teenage self would roll her eyes and sigh, but I remained at the stove, dutifully stirring the aromatic spice paste. Even then, I knew that the tumis (the spice paste) would taste all the better for it. Over 20 years later, I still wait for the telltale separation of the fat from the ingredients, a sure sign of delicious things to come.
Mastering sambal tumis is one of the rites of passage that almost every young Malay cook has to go through. It's essentially a condiment, a cooked chile paste that pairs well with every carb, from steamed tapioca to fried noodles to plain toast. It's primarily made from ground chiles and onions, sometimes starring a supporting aromatic actor like ginger or pandan. Its simplicity is the main draw, though it can also be a base for various proteins: whole cleaned ikan bilis (dried anchovies), prawns, and squid are common additions. Fried tofu is a delicious and cheap option, and some folks even just use sliced onions to bulk up the sambal into a meal. However, it's best known as a major component of nasi lemak, a dish so popular all throughout Malaysia that it's earned the title of our unofficial national dish.
Making sambal tumis teaches the cook two of the core concepts in Malay cooking: "tumis" and "pecah minyak." Learning and understanding these two concepts, especially pecah minyak, is half the battle when cooking many Malay dishes.
Sambal Tumis: A Closer LookSambal tumis basically translates to "sautéed chile paste." But as with all cooking, the dish is much more than the sum of its parts. The usual components of sambal tumis are alliums and chiles. Which ones you choose depends on your desired result. Do you want a sambal tumis that has a fresher, brighter profile? Will it be saucier or more on the dry side? Sometimes even the time you have to cook will dictate which road you take: If you have more time, you can use larger yellow onions (more juicy) and dried chiles (these take a longer time to coax their flavors out). If not, smaller Asian shallots and fresh chiles it is. Strictly speaking, any sauteed chile paste is a sambal, but the name sambal tumis generally refers to a simple allium-chile mix. When adding a protein to the sambal tumis base, its name changes. Adding prawns? Sambal tumis udang. Adding tofu? Sambal tumis tauhu. And so on.
For this particular sambal tumis, I went the most basic route of large red onions, garlic, and dried chiles. This version is best paired with nasi lemak, or mopped up with toast. The not-so-secret ingredient is ikan bilis (dried Southeast Asian anchovies) that are finely ground and added at the tumis stage (when the paste begins to sauté, more on that below), which gives an unmistakable savory punch that will keep you going back for more.
What Is Tumis?Tumis is a verb that almost directly translates to "sauté," meaning to cook and turn ingredients in fat. As a noun it can refer to whatever the ingredients are being sautéed, but more often it describes something more specific: the cooked paste of aromatics and spices that form the base of many gravy-rich dishes like curries and stews. These pastes can be made from a vast number and combination of ingredients. Most often, they will contain some kind of aromatic and some kind of spicy element. The aromatics can be Asian shallots, garlic, ginger, fresh turmeric, or lemongrass, while the spicy elements can be any kind of chiles or dried spices (for less heat and more warm spice flavors).
Traditionally, these items are freshly ground together in a mortar and pestle, in a general order of dry to wet ingredients (e.g., dry spices before onions) to help ensure that the paste is evenly ground. These days it is very common to find a cheap blender in a Malaysian kitchen, used specifically for making tumis and nothing else—no oniony smoothies, thanks.
Plain white rice forms the bulk of the Malay diet, so to flavor the rice, we’re big fans of dishes with gravy. These gravies tend to be on the thicker side and quite rich, like our coconut-based stews (‘masak lemak’) and curries (‘gulai’ or ‘kari’). A little bit can go a long way if you’re tight on resources, or conversely, they can be piled on for any special occasion. The idea is to coat the rice with flavors instead of swimming in liquid, so the tumis is essential in thickening the gravy to desirable consistencies.
Pecah Minyak: The Technique for Managing Moisture and Flavor DevelopmentPecah minyak is the stage of cooking the tumis paste when it is deemed fully and properly cooked, ready to receive subsequent ingredients. It not only deepens the flavor of the paste, but it also helps it keep for longer since a key quality of pecah minyak is having driven off enough moisture during cooking that the paste is less susceptible to spoilage (there weren't a lot of fridges back in the day).
While all these terms are Malay, pecah minyak is almost certainly a technique adopted from the South Indians who emigrated to the Southeast Asianregion over the centuries. The sautéing of pastes of various alliums, rhizomes, and spices as the first step of the cooking process has also made its way to other Malaysian communities, especially the Peranakan groups, which are various naturalized ethnic subgroups who have adopted many aspects of Malay culture.
But what is pecah minyak? What does it look like? What does it sound like? Many a young cook has stressed out over this step, as many recipes will state "masak sehingga pecah minyak" or, "cook until the oil separates."
Serious Eats / Michelle YipAlliums and rhizomes have a lot of water in them, so when you take something like an onion and pulverize it in a mortar and pestle or blender, you’re essentially making a thick juice of it (and often when using a blender, one has to add even more water to help the blender along). These watery pastes, if not cooked long enough, tend to taste underdeveloped and even a little raw—very much the flavor of, say, onion that has been boiled but not cooked down in fat.
Properly identifying and employing pecah minyak avoids this result two ways. First, through basic concentration: cooking off water concentrates the flavor molecules in the paste, making them intense, not thin and watery. Second, it deepens the flavor via the Maillard reaction, in which the proteins and sugars in the paste interact at high heat to form increasingly complex flavor and aroma molecules. The key term here, though, is high heat, which is limited by water's relatively low boiling point. When too much water is present, you don't get much of a Maillard reaction, and only after cooking much of it off does the paste begin to truly fry, brown, and grow more delicious.
When enough water has cooked off, what you’ll see is a clear separation of oil from the paste. The paste will also go from more watery and pale in appearance to something darker, taking on more golden and brown tones. This separation of oil is where the term "pecah minyak" comes from: The oil has broken, split, or separated. No emulsions here, we want to be able to skim this oil off if needed.
There are a few tips that can help ensure successful pecah minyak. The main thing to remember is that the technique is primarily focused on driving off moisture, which means anything we can do to minimize water at the outset will help.
This particular recipe for sambal tumis starts with dried chiles, which need to be rehydrated and softened in boiling water. They are then processed to a paste, which I prefer to do in a food processor, since a blender almost always ends up requiring even more additional liquid to keep things falling into the blades as they spin—liquid that you then have to spend even longer cooking off.
With the rehydrated chiles in the food processor, it's then time to moisten them slightly to help process them to a paste. Instead of adding water, though, I add oil, creating a bit of a shortcut later since that oil will fry the chiles in the pan. (For those wondering why you can't just add oil to a blender for similar effect, you can, but just as with water, you'd have to add more oil, which would throw the balance of the paste off or require extra skimming later.)
The alliums, ikan bilis, and chiles have to be processed separately, as they are added to the pot at different stages of the cooking process. All these ingredients have varying amounts of moisture, proteins, and sugars, and therefore require different amounts of time to cook; put them in all at once, and you'll either overcook some or undercook others. That said, as long as the ingredients are scraped out after processing, it's not necessary to wipe down or rinse the food processor in between processing each component.
One of the more important details of this process is to fry in more oil than you may think is necessary. This helps the tumis to cook evenly without burning. It will look like a lot of oil, but most of it is skimmed off at the end, and this flavorful oil can be reused to fry eggs, rice, etc.
As for frying itself, make note that the heat cannot be high; it must be at least medium to medium-low so that the moisture is cooked off before the paste burns. Some Malay aunties will warn against setting the heat too low because it can take a lot of time to pecah minyak, but I personally like to set the heat to as low as possible so I can let it burble on the stove while tending to other kitchen chores. Every time I pass by the stove, I give the tumis a stir to make sure everything cooks evenly and the paste doesn't burn at the bottom.
Any liquids that need to be added to modify the consistency and flavor of the finished dish must be added after pecah minyak has been achieved (common liquids used in various dishes include water, water mixed with tamarind concentrate, and coconut milk). I add some water along with the tamarind concentrate and palm sugar to the sambal tumis towards the end, so that the flavors of the tumis are fully developed first. Adding the liquids later also helps prevent the infamous thick-liquid spatter that happens when someone is tumis-ing anything on the stove.
If there are any protein additions or the like, they are added towards the end, right after the tamarind concentrate. They will then cook in the sambal, lending their flavors to each other.
Remember that this recipe is only the beginning, a guide to one kind of sambal tumis made a particular way. It’s a dish that has as many variations as it does cooks. Once you master the basics, go forth and make it your own!
In a 2-quart saucepan, boil 2 cups (473ml) water over high heat. Meanwhile, using kitchen shears, cut the dried chiles diagonally into 1/4-inch-thick (0.5cm) strips. Massage the strips gently to release as many seeds as possible to the bottom of the bowl. Transfer chile strips without the seeds to the boiling water and let boil until chiles are softened, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or spider, lift chiles out of saucepan and transfer to heatproof plate, leaving any stray seeds behind (seeds will make the sambal bitter, so it's important to remove them all).
Using a food processor, process the onion and garlic, scraping down sides as needed, to a paste, about 30 seconds; scrape the onion and garlic paste into a bowl. Next, process the ikan bilis into fine powdery shards, 2 to 3 minutes; scrape into a separate bowl. Finally, process the boiled chiles with 1/2 cup (120ml) oil until well pureed, 3 to 5 minutes; transfer pureed chiles to a third bowl.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipIn a wok or large, deep stainless-steel skillet, heat the remaining 1 cup (235ml) oil over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add the onion and garlic paste, immediately reduce heat to low, and cook, stirring every few minutes, until the onions are very soft and translucent, about 35 minutes.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipStir in the ikan bilis and cook, stirring every few minutes, until the color deepens to a light brown and oil separates, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipStir in the chile puree and cook, stirring every few minutes, until color deepens and oil separates, about 35 minutes; be sure to lower the heat if it seems like the puree is foaming up or darkening too quickly, both signs that it's cooking too rapidly.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipStir in palm sugar, tamarind concentrate, and 1/2 cup (120ml) water. Cook, stirring often, until color is dark reddish brown, almost maroon-like, the sambal is thick, and oil has again separated from the paste, about 30 minutes longer; continue to regulate heat as needed so this process happens gently to avoid scorching the paste. (The exact color and consistency of the sambal is up to personal preference, though many nasi lemak stalls serve their sambal on the thicker, gloopier end, which is also my preference.) Remove from heat and season with salt.
Michelle YipServe as an accompaniment to nasi lemak or as a condiment with your preferred carbohydrate.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipSpecial EquipmentFood processor
NotesConsidering how much chile pepper Malaysians consumes, we don't really have specific names for different types of chiles like, say, Mexicans do. They're usually described instead by appearance: large chiles, dried chiles, etc. The chiles called for in this recipe are essentially Kashmiri chiles, those dry and wrinkly South Asian chiles that give a deep red color without rendering the final dish too spicy.
Ikan bilis can be found at any good Asian grocery store, especially those specializing in Southeast Asian imports. Ask for ‘dried anchovies’—every Southeast Asian country has their own name for it. They are sometimes sold already cleaned and gutted, but those will be more expensive; if yours aren't cleaned, you'll need to prep them by removing the heads, then splitting the fish lengthways so you can gut and debone it. The bigger varieties tend to be quite salty, so seek out the smaller varieties.
Palm sugar is relatively easy to find, also at any good Asian grocery store. Thai palm sugar is a great substitute. Jaggery will do in a pinch. No need to grate or soften the palm sugar here, just chuck some chunks in roughly equal to 1 1/2 tablespoons; they will dissolve.
Many Malay dishes are seasoned at the end, whether with salt or sugar. During pecah minyak, the mass of the ingredients is reduced as the moisture is cooked off, which means the final volume is much less than the starting volume. For this reason, it's important not to season early, or you risk concentrating the seasoning to unpalatable levels.
Make-Ahead and StorageIf prepared properly, this sambal can be stored for up to 1 week on the counter, 3 weeks in the fridge, and up to 1 year in the freezer. Always use a clean and dry spoon when serving so the sambal does not get contaminated and lasts as long as possible.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipSay the words “nasi lemak” in Malaysia and you’ll spark a number of debates. What is the ideal texture of the rice? What accompaniments are non-negotiable? Which roadside nasi lemak vendors have the best sambal? These questions can evolve into full-blown arguments, at times drifting to social media with thousands of folks offering their two cents on where to find the best nasi lemak. Other than one’s mother’s house, you can find nasi lemak at roadside stalls (or gerai), school canteens, shopping mall food courts, and high-end hotel restaurants. Basically, anywhere and everywhere.
While frequently served with toppings and condiments, at its most basic, nasi lemak is rice cooked in coconut milk. “A lot of people translate it to ‘fatty rice’, because coconut milk is fatty,” says Ahmad Najib “Nadge” Ariffin, a cultural historian and self-professed gastro-anthropologist. “The word ‘lemak’ in this particular context actually points to the richness of the rice, a comforting softness.”
The dish is what many Malaysians crave when they wake up in the morning, no matter where they are in the world. One of my brothers went to university in Indiana in the 1990s, and I remember his Malaysian friends weeping with joy when my mom served them nasi lemak on a cold winter morning in South Bend.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipLike most traditional Malay dishes, it’s difficult to pinpoint nasi lemak’s origins, though rice cooked with coconut milk is a widespread practice in regions where rice is cultivated and coconuts grow, so that, at least, possibly goes back quite far. According to Nadge, the earliest written evidence of nasi lemak is found in British colonial-era records as early as the 1910s that make note of local dishes. A better way of guessing when people started making nasi lemak with its various toppings may be by looking at when all the ingredients—like chile peppers for sambal tumis—became available. Though rice, coconuts, and ikan bilis (dried anchovies) all existed in Malaya (a term that refers to the region pre-independence in 1957), it wasn’t until the 17th and 18th centuries that European colonizers brought chiles from the Americas.
The dish’s “origins are most likely from the west coast of peninsular Malaysia, but even this is by indirect inference,” says Nadge. In the 1800s, the famous Malayan writer Munshi Abdullah wrote of his visits to the peninsula’s east coast. Though Abdullah detailed the many dishes he ate, notably absent is any mention of nasi lemak. “If you ask older people in Kelantan and Terengganu [on the east coast], they don’t consider nasi lemak as ‘theirs’. It’s a Malay dish, sure, but not from there.”
You can serve nasi lemak with any number of dishes and accompaniments, with or without sambal. Heck, you can even cook it in the microwave or a multi-tier stovetop steamer. As long as it’s rice cooked in coconut milk, you can technically call it nasi lemak. We’ll get to the dishes and accompaniments in a bit; let’s talk about the rice first.
The RiceCooking rice in coconut milk is common among communities that live around the equator, including the region of Southeast Asia of which Malaysia is a part. Coconut milk is one of the easiest ways to add flavor, richness, and additional nutrients to what would otherwise be a plain bowl of rice. Traditionally, cooks prepare nasi lemak with freshly squeezed coconut milk (‘santan’ in the Malay language), which are available to purchase at most grocers and markets in Malaysia. Some folks prefer to buy freshly grated coconut to make the milk at home, and some may go even further and grate the coconuts themselves. These days, many Malaysian cooks choose to use boxed coconut milk for consistency and shelf life, and reserve the freshly squeezed stuff for special occasions.
Then there are the aromatics that are cooked with the rice. Pandan leaves lend a grassy sweetness that pairs well with the richness of coconut milk; this is the aroma most people associate with nasi lemak. Beyond that, fresh ginger is common, as are slices of onion, fenugreek seeds, cinnamon sticks, cloves, star anise, and cardamom. To avoid overwhelming the rice, I usually stick with pandan and ginger.
The rice can be cooked in a variety of ways, though these days it is most common to use a rice cooker. The thing about using a rice cooker to make nasi lemak, however, is that it’s trickier than cooking basic rice, with the method changing depending on the type of rice, the type of coconut milk, and the type of rice cooker used. With time, individual cooks figure out how to make it work with what they have, but this isn't practical when writing a recipe that needs to work as consistently as possible for as many people and cooking setups as possible. I have found that this kind of consistency is best achieved by using a specific piece of equipment: a tiered stovetop steamer (or some other steamer setup if you don't have a dedicated stacking one).
Using a tiered steamer to cook rice may seem fussy, but it produces consistent results—fluffy grains separate from one another with ample coconut flavor—regardless of the kind of rice you use. In this recipe, I pre-cook the rice in a wok or skillet with the other ingredients, which allows the rice to start absorbing flavor from the get-go. Once the grains have soaked up most of the liquid, you’ll transfer the rice to the tiered steamer to finish cooking.
Unlike cooking in regular rice cookers or cooking pots, this method enables the cook to check the doneness of their rice from time to time without worrying about losing essential steam, since a steamer can continue to provide more and more steam until the rice is done (contrast that with cooking rice in a pot or rice cooker, where the perfect ratio of water to rice has to be measured out before sealing the pot; opening the lid unnecessarily simply lets that precise amount of water escape as steam).
The Many Ways of Serving Nasi LemakThere are as many ways to serve nasi lemak as there are people eating it. Nadge describes five “levels” of nasi lemak:
- Just the rice itself, cooked in coconut milk.
- Rice with plain sambal tumis, a spicy condiment made by slow-cooking chillies into a paste, a critically important component for most nasi lemak connoisseurs that requires the technique of pecah minyak, or "splitting of the oil," a sign that the sambal is properly cooked.
- Rice, sambal tumis, and basic accoutrements: fried ikan bilis (dried and salted anchovies), a slice of hard-boiled egg. Some consider fried peanuts and sliced cucumbers a part of this set as well.
- Levels 1-3, plus any dish under the sun. Squid sambal tumis? Fried chicken? Beef rendang? Fried beef lungs? More is more.
- Levels 1-4, all served on a banana leaf. Whether you’re eating it with utensils or with your fingers, the inadvertent scraping of the leaf helps release its fragrant oils and perfumes your nasi lemak even further.
Levels 4 and 5 are where folks have the most fun. Head up north to Kedah and Perlis and you’ll see nasi lemak served with curries (called ‘gulai’), many times omitting the sambal tumis entirely. Head down past Malacca and you’ll find it served with fried kangkung (water spinach). Go further south to Singapore and enjoy nasi lemak with fried small whole fish or one of my favorite Singaporean Chinese variations: seared luncheon meat. Many Peranakan versions are accompanied with some kind of seafood cooked in the sambal. At Malaysian-Chinese food court stalls, nasi lemak with pork curry is the norm. If it goes with rice, chances are excellent that it’ll go with nasi lemak.
Nasi lemak tends to be served with all its condiments and accompaniments on the same plate. Occasionally, if the place is fancy, it might come with any item that has a lot of gravy in a separate bowl, but most would just pour it on top of the rice to mix with the sambal.
What I’m trying to say here is: While individual opinions run strong, there’s no right or wrong way to serve and eat nasi lemak. As long as it’s got coconut rice, it's all good. Just don’t post about it online if you value your sanity.
Set up a tiered steamer (see notes), filling the bottom section with about 3 inches of water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Line the steamer tier with cheesecloth.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipMeanwhile, place the rice in a strainer and rinse the grains under running water until the water is almost clear. Drain rice, then transfer to a 10-inch nonstick skillet and add the coconut milk, 7 ounces (200ml) water, pandan leaves, ginger, and salt. Cook on medium heat, stirring continuously, until it thickens like rice pudding, 8-10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipTransfer the rice mixture to the cheesecloth-lined steamer tier and spread it in a roughly even layer. Set steamer tier over bottom section of boiling water, cover, and steam over medium heat until the grains are fully cooked, about 45 minutes; start checking rice doneness after 35 minutes of steaming. Once the rice reaches your preferred texture, turn off the heat and leave it to continue steaming, covered, until the steaming stops. The rice should be just cooked, with separate grains and a rich flavor of coconut.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipServe with sambal tumis and other nasi lemak accompaniments, depending on your preference (note that it's typical to leave the pandan leaves in the nasi lemak, as it's understood they will be removed at the table by the diner; do not eat them). If desired, nasi lemak can be served on a banana leaf, which will contribute its own fragrance to the dish as the rice and toppings are eaten.
Serious Eats / Michelle YipSpecial EquipmentTiered steamer (see notes), cheesecloth
NotesIf you don’t have a tiered stovetop steamer, you can use a large pot with a steamer insert, or a wok with a bamboo steamer.
This recipe was tested with boxed coconut milk, which comes in a variety of sizes. If using canned, stir the coconut cream and coconut milk together before measuring.
Ikan bilis can be found at any good Asian grocery store, especially those specializing in Southeast Asian imports. Ask for ‘dried anchovies’—every Southeast Asian country has their own name for it. They are sometimes sold already cleaned and gutted, but those will be more expensive; if yours aren't cleaned, you'll need to prep them by removing the heads, then splitting the fish lengthways so you can gut and debone it. The bigger varieties tend to be quite salty, so seek out the smaller varieties. Ikan bilis are usually sold in their uncooked dried form, so you'll likely have to fry themyourself: for 50g cleaned ikan bilis, heat up 1 tablespoon neutral cooking oil in a skillet over medium heat, then fry the ikan bilis, turning occasionally, until golden brown (about 3-5 minutes). Remove and drain on a paper towel–lined sheet tray. Do not salt, they will be plenty salty.
Make-Ahead and StorageBecause of the fatty nature of coconut milk, the cooked rice will not last for longer than 1-2 days in the fridge. Freezing is not recommended as the fat in the rice will split when thawed and result in oily rice.
Serious Eats / Vy TranFor Vietnamese, rice is life! Vietnamese eat rice from breakfast to lunch and dinner, and even dessert, albeit in different forms. Growing up in Vietnam, I do not remember a single day that my family skipped rice. The phrase for having a meal, ăn cơm, translates to "eating rice"—Vietnamese history and food culture revolve around it.
Serious Eats / Vy TranAs one of the world’s leading rice exporters, Vietnam exported 6.4 million tons of rice in 2021, according to the USDA. But much of what Vietnam sends to the rest of the world are perfect rice grains, not the broken rice, or cơm tấm, Vietnamese love so much. Broken rice are the grains damaged during the drying and milling process, which, outside of Vietnam, are generally considered inferior to intact ones. Among the Vietnamese, however, the feeling is much different and demand for broken rice is so high that some manufacturers will manually break rice grains just to produce enough. While broken rice by itself tastes no different from regular whole rice grains, it does have a couple advantages: Thanks to their smaller size, the broken grains cook faster and soak up sauces and flavors better.
Historically, rice farmers in the rural Mekong Delta kept broken rice both as animal feed and for their own meals. Broken rice was originally served with just two ingredients: bì (shredded pork skin) and mỡ hành (scallion oil), and was often stigmatized as peasant food. As people from the Mekong Delta moved to Saigon after 1975 for better job opportunities, they introduced broken rice to the city dwellers. Since then, broken rice has become one of southern Vietnam’s most iconic foods, available from street carts and sidewalk vendors, and there are even restaurants dedicated to this popular dish.
Nowadays, broken rice has evolved from its humble beginnings; these days you’ll see it dressed with fancier cuts of meat and topped with many delicious add-ons. Besides shredded pork skin, you can choose from popular options such as grilled pork chop (thịt sườn nướng), grilled pork (thịt nướng), grilled pork paste (nem nướng), grilled chicken (gà nướng), steamed pork-and-egg meatloaf (chả trứng hấp), or a sunny-side-up fried egg. The whole plate is topped with scallion oil, pickled vegetables, fresh lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber, and a tangy-sweet fish sauce dressing drizzled over everything. Some places serve a bowl of pork broth to slurp along with the broken rice.
My favorite combination is grilled pork, shredded pork, and pork-and-egg meatloaf. Choose what your taste buds fancy, or go all-out with a special that includes everything on the menu.
The Main Event: How to Cook Broken RiceUsing a rice cooker is an almost foolproof method of cooking rice to obtain those perfect fluffy and sticky grains. Before cooking, I wash the excess starches of the rice with running water until it is no longer cloudy, which helps prevent the grains from excessively sticking to each other once cooked. Then, with a 1:1 ratio of broken rice to water, I put it all in the rice cooker and let it work its magic.
If you don't have a rice cooker, you can of course also cook the rice on the stovetop, which this recipe also provides instructions for.
Component 1: Grilled PorkFor the grilled meat, I like to use pork butt, which has more fat and tends to be juicy after grilling compared to leaner cuts like the loin. Have your butcher slice the meat about 1/8-inch-thick so that it is easier to marinate and grill. The marinade is a simple mixture of fish sauce, water, sugar, freshly ground pepper, and vegetable oil, along with my favorite aromatics of shallot, scallion, and garlic. Marinate the meat overnight, or up to 24 hours, before grilling.
Serious Eats / Vy Tran
You will need six to eight 8-inch wooden skewers to thread the pork, and it's best to soak them in water for 30 minutes to prevent them from burning during grilling.
I like to cook the skewers over a two-zone fire, in which the grill has burning-hot coals on one side but not the other. This way, you can sear the pork first directly over the coals to get some good browning and flavor development, then move them to the cooler side to finish cooking without the risk of them burning.
Component 2: Shredded Pork and Pork SkinWhat I love about this topping is the textural contrast between the chewy pork skin and crisp-tender meat. Store-bought shredded pork skin is made from skin with the fat removed that is then boiled and sliced super thin. You can make your own pork skin, but I prefer the convenience of premade options widely available at Asian supermarkets.
The pork skin itself is pleasingly chewy, and it's tossed with pork butt that's been simmered until cooked-through and tender, then crisped in a hot pan and cut into matchsticks. Both the sliced pork and pork skin are mixed with minced garlic and toasted rice powder (thính), the latter lending an earthy, nutty aroma and pleasing grittiness to the pork and skin.
Component 3: Steamed Pork-and-Egg MeatloafDubbed as “Vietnamese meatloaf,” chả trứng hấpis a humble dish made from ground pork, cellophane noodles, wood ear mushrooms, shallot, scallion, fish sauce, sugar, and freshly ground pepper. Other proteins that work great with this recipe include ground chicken, shrimp, and crabmeat. Soak both the cellophane noodles and wood ear mushrooms in warm water for 15 minutes to rehydrate before incorporating them with the other ingredients.
Serious Eats / Vy Tran
South Vietnamese steam the mixture, while north Vietnamese pan-fry it. Baking it or cooking it in a pressure cooker are other options. If you do not own a dedicated steamer, fill a large pot with about 2 inches of water, put a wire rack inside with the loaf pan rested on top, cover with a vented lid, and proceed with steaming. The whole mixture is suspended in beaten egg whites, steamed for 25 minutes, topped with beaten egg yolks, and steamed for another 5 minutes, resulting in two beautiful, distinctive layers.
Assembling and EatingServing the broken rice and toppings goes something like this: fill small bowls with the cooked broken rice, then invert the rice onto a plate. It should hold a domed shape once the bowl is removed. Next to the rice dome you can assemble the toppings. The grilled pork should still be warm, the meatloaf is good just slightly warm, and shredded pork mixture can be room temperature or slightly warm.
Serious Eats / Vy Tran
Then drizzle the scallion oil over the rice, the grilled pork, and the shredded pork. Add a few pieces of lettuce, tomatoes, and cucumber next to the meat, and serve it with the dipping sauce and pickled vegetables on the side.
For the Grilled Pork: In a large mixing bowl, combine water, fish sauce, sugar, and vegetable oil and whisk until sugar has dissolved. Add shallot, scallion, garlic, and pepper to the bowl. Add pork to the marinade and mix well to coat. Cover and refrigerate at least 8 hours and up to 1 day.
Serious Eats / Vy TranWhen ready to grill, thread marinated pork on soaked skewers. Light 1 chimney full of charcoal. When all charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and arrange coals on one side of charcoal grate. Set cooking grate in place, cover grill, and allow to preheat for 5 minutes. Alternatively, set half the burners on a gas grill to high. Cover and preheat for 10 minutes. Clean and oil grilling grate.
Serious Eats / Vy TranSet skewers over coals or burners and cook until lightly browned on both sides, about 2 minutes. Move meat to cooler side of grill and cook, turning frequently and basting meat with the marinade, until cooked through and no pink remains, 12 to 15 minutes; stop basting about 5 minutes before the end of cooking time to avoid contamination with raw meat juices. Set aside and keep warm.
Serious Eats / Vy TranMeanwhile, for the Pork-and-Egg Meatloaf: In a small bowl, soak cellophane noodles in 2 cups warm water for 15 minutes. Drain softened noodles, blot dry with paper towels to remove any excess water, then use kitchen shears to cut them into 1-inch strands. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Vy TranMeanwhile, in another small bowl, soak wood ear mushrooms in 1 cup warm water for 15 minutes. Drain and rinse them thoroughly; squeeze out any excess moisture, then blot dry on paper towels. Discard any tough stems. Chop into roughly 1/4-inch pieces, and set aside.
Serious Eats / Vy TranIn a large bowl, beat egg whites until bubbly but still liquidy, about 1 minute. Whisk in fish sauce, sugar, and pepper. Mix in ground pork, cellophane noodles, wood ear mushrooms, shallots, and scallions until thoroughly combined.
Serious Eats / Vy TranLine a 4- by 7-inch loaf pan or round ceramic baking dish with parchment paper (choose whichever vessel will best fit inside a steamer setup). Spoon in pork mixture, pressing down to pack tightly. Place a steamer over a saucepan of vigorously boiling water. Transfer meatloaf mixture to steamer, cover, and steam at medium-high heat until meatloaf is puffed and a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean, 25 minutes.
Serious Eats / Vy TranBeat egg yolks lightly in a bowl. Open lid of steamer and pour egg yolks on top of meatloaf. Cover and steam until yolk is set, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Remove meatloaf from heat and set aside. Let cool for at least 1 hour (cutting into the meatloaf while still hot may make it fall apart). When ready to serve, unmold meat loaf and cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices.
Serious Eats / Vy TranFor the Shredded Pork: In a medium bowl, soak shredded pork in just enough warm water to cover for 15 minutes. Rinse and drain thoroughly. Squeeze out as much water as possible. Spread pork skin out on a tray lined with paper towels to absorb excess moisture.
Serious Eats / Vy TranIn a medium saucepan, bring 3 cups (710ml) water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add 1 teaspoon salt and stir to dissolve. Add pork butt and cook until meat thermometer registers 145°F (63°C) in the center of the thickest part, about 20 minutes. Remove from pan and plunge into a bowl of ice water to cool. Drain and pat dry with paper towels.
Serious Eats / Vy TranIn a 10-inch stainless-steel skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Sear pork butt on all sides until a nice brown crust forms, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. When cool enough to handle, slice pork into matchsticks. In a large bowl, combine pork matchsticks, pork skin, garlic, roasted rice powder, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt and mix well. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Vy TranFor the Broken Rice: Rinse broken rice with cold water until no longer cloudy, then drain. In a rice cooker, combine 3 cups of water with rinsed broken rice and cook according to the manufacturer's instructions. Alternatively, to cook on the stovetop, in a large 4- or 5-quart pot, combine water and rinsed rice and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cover, reduce heat to low, and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let rice rest, covered, for 10 minutes, then uncover pot and fluff rice to allow excess moisture to escape. Keep warm.
Serious Eats / Vy TranFor the Drizzling Sauce: In a medium bowl, combine water, sugar, fish sauce, and lime juice and mix until sugar has dissolved. Stir in garlic and chile. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Vy TranFor the Scallion Oil: In a medium microwave-safe bowl, combine scallion, oil, salt, and sugar. Cover with plastic wrap and microwave for 60 seconds. Remove wrap and mix well.
Serious Eats / Vy TranTo Assemble and Serve: Remove grilled pork from skewers. Divide rice onto serving plates. Arrange warm grilled pork (on or off skewer, as desired), slightly warm sliced pork-and-egg meatloaf, and shredded pork around rice. Drizzle scallion oil over rice and meat. Add lettuce, tomatoes, and cucumber next to meat. Serve with drizzling sauce, pickled vegetables, and pickled leeks on the side.
Serious Eats / Vy TranSpecial EquipmentRice cooker, steamer, 4- by 7-inch loaf pan or round ceramic baking dish, 8-inch wooden skewers
NotesIf you have trouble finding a butcher to slice the pork butt thinly for you, try the butcher at a Vietnamese or Chinese market, as this is not an uncommon request for them. To slice your own, freeze the pork butt until partially frozen, then slice thinly with a very sharp knife.
You can make your own roasted rice powder using this Thai recipe, but note that Vietnamese use uncooked jasmine rice instead of the glutinous rice called for in the Thai version. For store-bought roasted rice powder, look for brand Thính Saigon in market's seasoning section.
Pre-packaged pork skin can be found in the refrigerated or frozen section at Asian supermarkets. If you cannot find pre-packaged pork skin, you can make your own using this recipe.
Pickled leeks taste similar to pickled ramps and can be found at Asian supermarkets in glass jars in the canned food section.
Make-Ahead and StorageSince this recipe has multiple components, marinate the pork, prepare the drizzling sauce, and cook the pork-egg meatloaf the day before. On the day of, make the shredded pork, scallion oil, cook the rice, and grill the marinated pork.
The drizzling sauce can be made 2 days ahead and diluted with water if it thickens in the fridge.
The pork-egg meatloaf can be made 2 days ahead and rewarmed in the microwave or re-steamed.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinIn theory, sets of things are great. An assortment of items for one price seems like an easy way to save money while providing yourself with options. But when it comes to kitchen tools, sets—of utensils, pots and pans, whatever else—are often more of a clever sales tactic than a valuable investment.
Think about utensil sets—do you really need two different ladles or the same spatula in three sizes? Probably not, because you’ll find your favorite of each and the others will languish in a drawer, taking up space and getting in the way as you’re rooting around for the measuring spoons (one of the rare sets you should buy).
Knives are no exception to this questionable set rule. As tempting as knife blocks may be to ensure you’re covering all the bases for your slicing, dicing, and chopping needs, the reality is that you’re probably only going to reach for one or two of those knives on a regular basis. Instead, you’re better off choosing a few select knives that are sure to be put to use rather than serve as dust collectors.
Must-Have KnivesA Chef’s KnifeThe chef’s knife is the universal workhorse of the chopping board. So versatile is this knife that it’s worth investing in a quality one—and then learning how to properly maintain it—though you don’t need to break the bank.
We’ve tested lots of chef’s knives and while German-made Wüsthof unsurprisingly continues to top our lists, you can score an effective, well-made chef’s knife for under $30. If you can, go hold some knives in person first to see which feels best in your hand. After all, you’ll be using it a lot.
A Paring KnifeYep, paring knives range almost as widely in price as chef’s knives, but our tests have once again revealed that you don’t have to spend top dollar to equip your kitchen with a quality model. In truth, you probably won’t use a paring knife all that often, but it’s worth having one in your arsenal for tedious tasks like peeling shallots. Or, you know, slicing a cucumber as you throw together a side salad while your partner takes their sweet time carving a roast chicken with the chef’s knife.
A Bread KnifeA serrated bread knife can be used on more than just a crusty loaf. Think tomatoes, wintry squashes, or basically anything you’d like the blade to sink its teeth into with confidence before completing that downward stroke.
Because of their serrated blades, though, we don’t actually recommend spending a lot of money on a bread knife. They’re tricky to sharpen at home (all those individual sharp points), so unless you’re committed to seeking professional sharpening, you’re better off buying on a budget.
Nice-to-Have KnivesA Carving KnifeWhile a carving or slicing knife isn’t totally essential—you’ll have a chef’s knife, after all—if you’re regularly preparing the likes of prime rib or roast lamb, it might be nice to have just the right tool for the job. Thanks to their ultra-slim blades, carving knives slice right through meats and allow for deft maneuvering around bones and cartilage.
Slicing knives are very similar to carving knives, minus the tapered tip. They’re useful for navigating delicate dishes like terrines or gravlax.
A Boning KnifeA boning knife—more specifically, a Japanese poultry knife—will prove exceedingly useful next time you’re deboning chicken thighs or breaking down a bird. Boning knives are defined by their short, triangular blades that are both sharp and strong, allowing you to really get in there and separate bone from meat.
A CleaverA good cleaver can hack through thin bones (like a chicken's) and tough vegetables like nobody’s business. The wide blade is also useful for smashing garlic, pummeling ginger, or scooping up whatever you’ve just chopped and depositing it swiftly into a hot pan.
A SantokuSantoku knives are meant to be all-purpose—much like a chef’s knife. In fact, you might even prefer this Japanese classic over the Western-style blade, since santoku blades tend to be made of harder steel and feature a chiseled edge. In an ideal world, you can have both!
A Petty KnifeAlso referred to as a utility knife, petty knives are kind of like the Goldilocks of multipurpose blades. They’re smaller than a chef's knife, bigger than a paring knife, and just right for most tasks. Use a petty knife to prep vegetables, slice up a snacktime salami, or harvest fresh herbs from your overgrown windowsill garden.
Steak KnivesYes, we’re recommending a knife set in an article where we’re telling you not to buy a set of knives, but steak knives are different! Steak knives fall under the “flatware” category more than anything, because they’ll be right there with you at the dinner table and do a way better job of cutting through meats than, say, butter knives. We like this mid-priced set from Messermeister that blew away the competition in our tests.
FAQsWhat is the best kitchen knife set?The one you make yourself! It’s totally fine to buy a set of knives if that feels like the path of least resistance, but you’ll get the most value—both in time and money—from selecting just two or three individual knives that you’re sure to use on a regular basis.
What are the top five best knives?“Best” is always a subjective term, but since we rigorously test just about everything we recommend here, you can shop with confidence from any of our reviews; many of which have been linked above.
For an all-rounder chef’s knife, we like Wüsthof’s 8-inch. For a paring knife, you’ll be just fine with this affordable Victorinox. And Tojiro makes a great serrated bread knife! And, honestly? Three knives are all you really need.
How much should a good quality knife cost?There’s no hard and fast rule for what a good knife should cost. Consider instead what the knife’s purpose is and go from there—it’s better to allocate funds toward a quality chef’s knife and save cash on the bread knife that will need to be replaced far sooner.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezEvery year, a few days after Christmas, some families in Japan gather to celebrate Shogatsu, theJapanese New Year, by pounding hot, steamy rice into mochi. Using a large wooden mallet called a kine, they take turns hitting the steamed grains in a one-meter diameter usu(mortar) carved from a tree stump, rhythmically turning the rice by hand between strikes, until the rice transforms into a smooth, sticky dough. “It’s a family affair,” says Nancy Singleton Hachisu, who has resided in rural Japan since 1988 and is the James Beard Award-winning author of Japanese Farm Food and Preserving the Japanese Way. “Mochitsuki is a time for community and gathering.”
What Is Traditional Mochi? Why Should You Make It?Soft, chewy, and sticky, mochi is a rice cake that can be served in a multitude of ways: grilled, boiled, wrapped around anko(red bean paste), dipped in kinako(roasted soybean flour), and even deep fried. Its name, “mochi,” comes from mochi gome, the type of short-grain glutinous rice it’s made from.
Mochitsuki(mochi pounding) is a tradition dating back to at least the 8th century, with origins going back much farther to ancient China. Throughout history, mochi has held cultural significance for several occasions, from celebrating the New Year to childbirth and marriage, but by far the most common time for making and eating mochi is during Shogatsu.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor many, the notion of mochi evokes multicolored shapes (fruits, even animals) and molded confections popular in Japanese convenience stores and candy shops. For many more, mochi might be most closely associated with ice cream. But Hachisu is quick to point out that these foods are often not made with mochi in the most traditional sense. “Those [confections] are the furthest thing from mochi,” she says. “It doesn’t taste the same, because it’s made from mochiko flour—not from freshly steamed rice.” The vast majority of mochi you find commercially is not hand-pounded.
Modern food processing has made it possible to mix mochi at home from a fine, boxed powder or flour. You mix mochiko (or shiratamako) with water, cook it over the stovetop or microwave, and boom—mochi on the fly. But all that convenience comes at a price. “That stuff is pretty much flavorless in comparison,” Hachisu says. There’s nothing wrong with it. But it lacks a few things: flavor and texture, and in a more sentimental sense, the feelings of tradition, process, gathering, and community which make mochi such a special food in the first place.
The Challenge of (and Solution to) Making Pounded Mochi at HomeDeveloping a pounded mochi recipe for the home cook presents several challenges. For one, I’m pretty sure most people don’t own either an usuor a kine. Second, mochitsuki is traditionally performed outdoors or in a large, open area with plenty of room to swing a big old mallet. “You’re never gonna be able to do it at home,” Hachisu says. At least, not in the traditional way.
Third, there’s the communal aspect of making mochi. “Ideally, you’d make mochi with your family, or with friends, with people in the neighborhood,” Hachisu says. “The idea of community is so essential to making mochi.”
While I can’t necessarily solve these issues—after all, recipes are typically written for a single user, and we recipe developers are generally loner types to begin with, faffing around with culinary minutiae—I considered a few alternatives to the traditional pounding process.
- Large Mortar and Pestle: A mortar and pestle seemed an obvious choice to replicate the pounding and kneading of mochitsuki. I had passable results with small volumes of rice, but the yields were pitiful; a typical mortar simply doesn’t have enough capacity. And because of that small capacity, the rice tended to cool down too quickly before forming a cohesive, smooth paste. The rapid cooling made pounding prohibitively difficult as the paste thickened. This method took upwards of 15 minutes for a cup of dry rice, and the result was grainy and unappealing.
- Mochi-Making Machine: For those intent on regularly enjoying pounded mochi at home, you can buy dedicated mochi-making machines from reputable rice cooker companies like Zojirushi and Tiger. Marketed as all-in-one rice cooking and mochi-making devices, these machines set you back anywhere from 200 to 500 dollars. While I was tempted to try these machines out, I concluded that most home cooks wouldn’t be willing to drop that kind of money for such a specialized piece of equipment.
- Stand Mixer: When I suggested using a stand mixer to replicate the pounding and kneading process, Hachisu was skeptical. “You know, I had one of those Cuisinart stand mixers once. I’m pretty sure I threw it out,” she joked. In her estimation, the mochi dough might overwhelm the mixer, burning the motor out. “I’m not sure that it would work,” she said. “But I’ve also never tried it. So feel free to prove me wrong.”
The stand mixer does, in fact, work. Using a combination of the dough hook and the paddle attachments yielded the best results. The dough hook accomplished the initial kneading and helped to form a cohesive mass; whipping the dough with the paddle attachment broke the grains further apart, yielding a smoother result. And the best part? The work can be done quickly while the rice retains its heat.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThere are still limitations to this method. Compared to the texture of store-bought mochi or mochi made the traditional way, the resulting dough isn’t perfectly smooth—just ever-so-slightly grainy if you hold a cross-section up to the light. But in terms of eating quality and the handling of the dough, that graininess is imperceptible. Additionally, I found that there was an upper limit on the volume of rice my 7-quart KitchenAid mixer could handle—around 3 cups of dry rice. So depending on the model and capacity of your stand mixer, your mileage may vary.
Other Keys To Mochi SuccessType of RiceGood mochi starts with selecting the proper rice variety and quality. For one, mochi gome, or short-grain japonica glutinous rice, is essential. Glutinous rice is nearly 100 percent amylopectin, one of two main polysaccharides found in starch, along with amylose. Amylopectin tends to form a sticky, viscous but flowing gel. Higher amylose rice varieties, such as jasmine rice, are not suitable for making mochi, since they don’t form a sticky gel when blitzed apart or pounded.
Rice Cooking MethodsThe traditional method for cooking rice is twofold: the rice is first soaked overnight in water, then it is wrapped in muslin cloth and steamed for about an hour under a heavy wooden lid over an iron pot of water until the grains are tender. Soaking ensures that the rice cooks evenly when steamed, and some studies suggest that it reduces the protein content of the rice and also improves both shine and eating quality.
I tried to replicate this steaming method with cheesecloth and either a bamboo steamer or a heavy-lidded Dutch oven. While the Dutch oven produced good results results, it was a finickier process that required having to consistently check the grains by opening up the cheesecloth. The bamboo steamer, on the other hand, didn’t produce evenly cooked grains, and tended to stain the grains slightly brown.
Hachisu also recommended using a rice cooker (without soaking the grains beforehand)—though this is far from a traditional technique. This gave me consistent results, so I could really dial the ratio of water to rice to mimic the texture of properly steamed rice. I was curious if omitting the soaking step affected the texture and appearance of the dough, but I found the differences too minute to tell. If you’re a purist, stick to steaming. Otherwise, rice prepared in a rice cooker works just fine.
HeatAnother fundamental aspect of mochitsuki involves maintaining heat while pounding the rice. If the rice cools too much before the paste reaches the target consistency, then pounding becomes increasingly difficult, and the finished texture isn’t ideal. It’s also a pain to handle the dough when it’s cold, so the mixing, pounding, or kneading must be done quickly. “It’s a race against time,” says Hachisu.
Fortunately, the stand mixer does the heavy lifting here. But to maintain the temperature of the dough, I found it helpful to keep a rigid silicone spatula dipped in boiling water nearby. That hot, wet spatula made it easy to scrape down the sides of the bowl and fold the dough over itself, mimicking the motions of folding by hand.
Rolling, Shaping, and KatakurikoSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezOnce the mochi is mixed, it is usually formed into shapes and eaten right away. No matter what form mochi takes, it is customary to coat the work surface with katakuriko (potato starch). In fact, without potato starch, the mochi dough is nearly impossible to handle because of how sticky it is. A liberal dusting of katakuriko makes portioning, rolling, or pressing a relatively painless endeavor.
DryingFor the specific style of mochi called yakimochi(grilled mochi) shown in this recipe, it’s helpful to dry the mochi before cutting and cooking. These cut squares, known as kirimochi, are often sold commercially in vacuum sealed packs. The drying process forms a skin on the surface of the mochi, which allows the mochi to puff up dramatically over the grill or when toasted. The result is a crispy, crunchy exterior that gives way to a soft, chewy interior.
Serving SuggestionsThere is no shortage of serving options for mochi. While this recipe produces a mochi dough suitable for enrobing or rolling into various shapes, I wanted to offer mochi in its more unadorned form. “My favorite way to eat mochi is just toasted in the oven, maybe brushed with a little soy sauce,” says Hachisu. “Mochi is all about the rice, that delicate flavor.”
Ideally, yakimochi are cooked on a Japanese grill called a konro, ideally over binchotancoals. To replicate this at home, I opt for the strategic use of a blowtorch to get those charred, smoky edges and encourage the mochi to puff on all sides (if you don't have a blowtorch, you can use a broiler, though it will be more difficult to get even browning). The grilled mochi are brushed with a simple tare thickened with potato starch, wrapped in nori, and eaten hot—a serving style known as isobeyaki.
If you don’t have a grill or a blowtorch, a toaster oven (or an oven) is your next best option. The broiler setting produces a similar effect as a grill, albeit with less pronounced blistering or charring.
If you prefer sweeter options, you can drizzle the mochi with brown sugar syrup and serve it with some kinako (roasted soybean powder) or with globs of anko(red adzuki bean paste).
Continuing TraditionsSeveral years ago, Hachisu stumbled upon people making mochi while traveling through an airport. “It was probably a PR event,” she says. They wore gaudy, extravagant Japanese costumes, which were fake. They were shouting in a touristy, obnoxious way. “It was kind of sickening, to be honest. That’s not mochi.”
But all around Japan, there are enclaves of people carrying on the true traditions of mochitsuki, mostly in rural areas. “There are plenty of young people who come to our farming area, seeking a more natural life,” says Hachisu. They learn the tradition, revive it, and carry it on. Beyond the action itself, mochitsuki is about community and gathering.
How do you bring that feeling to your home? Hachisu recommends inviting friends over to make mochi—even if you happen to be using a stand mixer, with no usu or kine in sight. And if you can’t gather? You might as well share. As we wrap up our interview, Hachisu remembers to send a little mochi to her son who’s moved across the ocean to Brooklyn—so he can enjoy a little taste of home.
For the Mochi: In the bowl of a rice cooker, combine rice and water. Cook rice according to rice cooker settings for “white rice,” until grains are cooked through and translucent, about 45 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a large pot, bring 3 quarts of water to a boil. Pour 4 cups of the boiling water into the bowl of a stand mixer, then pour out the water (this warms up the bowl and helps to maintain the heat of the rice as it’s beaten.) Keep the remaining boiling water in the pot with a rigid silicone spatula in it (this keeps the spatula warm and moist for scraping down the sides of the bowl). Immediately transfer rice to the warmed stand mixer bowl and, using a dough hook, mix on medium speed until the rice forms a coarse paste, about 2 minutes. Stop stand mixer and, using the hot spatula, scrape down rice to the center. Continue mixing until paste is smoother, about 1 minute longer.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSwitch to paddle attachment, scraping any excess paste off the dough hook. Mix on medium speed until paste is smooth with minimal visible grains, 3 to 5 minutes, stopping to scrape sides down with the hot spatula, until the dough is pliable. (There will still be some graininess; that is okay.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing a fine-mesh strainer, dust a 9- by 13- inch rimmed baking sheet or baking dish liberally with potato starch. Scrape dough onto prepared pan and dust the top of the dough liberally with additional potato starch. Using clean, dry hands, press dough to edges of the pan, smoothing and leveling the dough until it is about 1/2 inch thick and the surface is flat. Place dough in freezer and chill until edges release easily from the pan and the dough is firm but not frozen, about 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer dough to a large cutting board. Using a sharp knife, cut dough into 2- by 3-inch rectangles (you should have 14 to 16 portions); wipe the knife down with a wet paper towel between cuts to keep the edges of the mochi clean. Arrange mochi on a wire rack and let dry at room temperature, flipping mochi once after 12 hours, until the surface is firm and no longer sticky, 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Sauce and to Serve: In a medium saucepan, whisk together mirin, water, soy sauce, sugar, and potato starch. Place saucepan over medium heat, bring mixture to boil, and cook, stirring occasionally, until bubbling subsides and the mixture is thickened, glossy, and coats the back of a spoon, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer mixture to a heatproof bowl and cool to room temperature. Set glaze aside until needed.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLine a rimmed baking sheet with foil. Using a dry pastry brush, brush excess potato starch from the surface of mochi. Place the portioned mochi on the prepared baking sheet. Using a blowtorch, toast the tops and sides of the mochi until it begins to puff up and blister all over. Flip and repeat until all the mochi have been evenly torched. (A lightly charred or blistered appearance is okay.) Alternatively, hold the mochi on a rimmed baking sheet about 4 to 6 inches under a broiler element until puffed and blistered all over, then flip and repeat on other side (it will be more difficult to brown the mochi evenly all over with a broiler, so a blowtorch is preferable).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTransfer cooked mochi to a wire rack, and brush each portion with sauce to coat. If desired, wrap each piece of mochi with nori and place seam-side down. Serve right away.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentRice cooker, stand mixer, pastry brush, blowtorch or broiler, wire rack
NotesThe mochi may blow out and burst while it’s being torched. This is normal—continue to evenly torch the mochi.
Do not use non-glutinous rice, since the resulting dough will not be as cohesive or chewy.
Make-Ahead and StorageDried mochi can be kept in a single layer in a zipperlock bag and frozen for up to 2 weeks.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariOver the centuries, the Iranian love of rice has led to extraordinary refinements in rice preparation methods and myriad ingenious rice dishes. Chelow, traditional Persian steamed white rice that's typically served alongside braises, stews, and grilled meats, is the most esteemed among them. It is fragrant, light and fluffy, with each grain of rice separate from the next, and snow-white, save for a bit of saffron often added to enhance it.
Early foreign explorers who traveled in Iran as far back as the 17th century wrote in detail about the exemplary nature of Persian-style rice dishes. Trusted contemporary culinary experts are of the same opinion. For example, Harold McGee, who has written extensively about the chemistry and history of food science and cooking in his seminal book, On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, wrote that he considers “Iranians, perhaps, the most sophisticated rice cooks.”
The principle techniques behind chelow are:
- thoroughly washing and soaking long-grain white rice to hydrate the grains and remove surface starches that can cause the rice to clump;
- parboiling the rice for just a few minutes until it is partially cooked;
- cooking the rice a second time with gentle steam, which brings it to perfect doneness without any risk of there being too much or too little water in the finished dish.
Some may find this preparation a bit elaborate, but the modest additional effort is well worth it as you will be delighted by the excellence of the results. After making it once or twice, the steps involved become second nature.
Persian Rice CultureWhile archaeological evidence suggests rice was first introduced to the Iranian Plateau roughly three thousand years ago, the continuous cultivation of berenj (برنج), the word for rice in Persian, dates to around 500 BCE during the Persian Achaemenid dynasty and continues to the present time. Although documents from the Persian Sassanian Dynasty era (224-652 CE) show rice having become a minor player in culinary habits of royal Persian courts, it wasn’t until the Safavid Dynasty era of the 16th century when rice preparation had become more elaborate, more refined, and with increased variety.
Rice cooking methods in Iran and the larger Persianate communities around the world are uniquely different from rice preparation in other “rice cultures” of the world. Moreover, Iranians’ mindset about rice also differs greatly from other cultures.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariUnlike in many parts of Asia, rice is not the most significant staple food for the majority of Iranians—bread is. Persians generally have such a high regard for rice that they're more likely to cook something else than settle for lower-quality varieties. At the same time, however, no guest—stranger or acquaintance, friend or foe—is received for a meal without at least one dish of steaming fluffy rice. In fact, most often guests will find multiple rice dishes on the sofreh, the cloth that is spread on a table, on the floor, or on the ground outside upon which meals are served.
The chelow recipe detailed here is not just an essential rice dish unto itself, but also the base of many other traditional Persian rice delicacies such as tahdig, the delicious, buttery, golden, crunchy, round layer formed at the bottom of the rice pot; polow, a class of fluffy rice dishes flavored with a wide range of cooked meat, vegetables, dried fruits, and nuts; and tahchin, a category of cake-like rice dishes where savory meats are encased in flavored rice with a crunchy outer layer.
Tahdig, it should be mentioned, is not only a desirable byproduct of making chelow, but also a nearly unavoidable one (technically, there are ways to avoid producing tahdig, but I don't know of anyone who would avoid tahdig on purpose). Even though chelow and tahdig in practice go hand-in-hand, this article and recipe will focus on the techniques and finer points of making chelow more generally; I have written a separate article and recipe exclusively focused on the art of tahdig along with a handful of popular tahdig variations; the recipes have much in common, though the two headnotes are entirely different and the tahdig recipe goes into much more detail on how to further perfect that coveted crispy layer of rice.
Choosing the Right RiceUsing a long-grain white rice is essential for making chelow. Long grain rice has the advantage of becoming tender while staying firm and separate when cooked properly. Among long-grain rice varieties, the best types to use for chelow are those grown in Iran or basmati varieties grown in India or Pakistan. Both are typically aged for at least one year before being sent to the market. The aging process helps to dehydrate the rice, which in turn causes it to expand when cooked more than any other type of long-grain rice.
Since the rice grown in Iran is very expensive and extremely hard to find outside of Iran, an equally good alternative is high quality, aged, extra-long-grain basmati rice grown in India and Pakistan. The word basmati is derived from Hindi language meaning fragrant. Good, aged, white basmati rice has a slight pale-yellow color. Although practically all grocery stores in the US carry at least one brand of Indian or Pakistani basmati rice, you will find a much wider variety and often better prices in Indian, Pakistani, Afghani, and Middle Eastern brick-and-mortar and online markets. The rice keeps quite well if stored in cool, dark, and dry conditions.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariYou will also find basmati rice grown in the US in your local grocery stores. American-grown rice is typically not aged, and therefore does not expand as much as Iranian or basmati varieties from India or Pakistan. Consider US basmati rice a last resort. Also, never use converted rice (rice that is partially cooked before the husks are removed and then dried) to make chelow, as that par-cooking will cause trouble with the two-stage cooking technique required for proper chelow.
When it comes to the type of rice called for in this recipe, unlike many commonly used culinary ingredients (flour, sugar, salt, etc.) that have been somewhat standardized, you may find different cooking behavior from bag to bag even from the same brand. As I was preparing to write this article, I made multiple batches of chelow from several different basmati rice brands while taking detailed notes about each batch. The cooking behavior of the seven rice brands that I had used differed in yield and cooking time by as much as 15%. Therefore, if you are in the habit of purchasing 10- or 20-pounds (5- or 10-kilograms) bags of rice – which is what I do – you should take notes when making chelow or any other rice dish from a new bag of rice.
Key Chelow Techniques: Washing and Soaking the RiceOne of the secrets to making fluffy Persian rice is to thoroughly wash the rice before cooking. Bagged rice, as well as rice scooped out of bulk containers, is typically covered with a fine starchy dust that collects during processing and transportation. Thoroughly washing the rice before cooking removes this surface powder. If you don’t wash the rice, you end up effectively cooking the rice along with that powdery starch, resulting in a texture that is mushy and gooey. Regardless of the type of rice, there are other benefits to washing your rice before cooking. Washing rice helps remove dust, sand, and other unwanted foreign debris, particularly if your rice comes in a traditional burlap bag, that might impact the taste of the cooked rice or may be noticeable when eating it. Washing also kicks off the hydration of the rice grains, which is essentially the first step of cooking.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariWhile washing benefits all long-grain rice varieties, you have to be more selective about which types of rice to soak and for how long. Historical records dating back to the 16th century clearly indicate that Iranian cooks would soak their rice for an extended period of time—often overnight—in well salted water. I myself have vivid childhood memories in Iran of pans of rice soaking in water with a large chunk of rock salt sitting in the kitchen overnight in preparation for next day’s rice cooking. While such long soaking practices are appropriate for certain long-grain rice grown in Iran, Indian and Pakistani basmati rice, whose grains are a bit softer than Iranian rice, needs a much shorter soaking period.
Soaking gives the rice a chance to absorb water, allowing for more even cooking during the parboiling stage, as well as more elongated and fluffier grains during the steaming stage. Salting the soaking water, meanwhile, helps to flavor the rice from within.
Soaking offers an additional benefit, which is that it preserves some of the rice's fragile natural aromatics. Cooked Iranian and basmati rice has a smell similar to that of pandan leaves, in both cases caused by the aroma compound 2-Acetyl-1-pyrroline. Iranian and basmati rice have higher levels of 2-Acetyl-1-pyrroline compared to other rice varieties, but the level of 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline decreases during cooking. The longer the rice cooks, the less of this aroma will remain when it's finished. By soaking the rice, we're able to get a jumpstart on hydrating the grains before heat is ever applied, shortening the overall cooking time and keeping 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline levels higher.
Essential Equipment for ChelowWhile chelow doesn't require much in terms of specialized equipment, there are some important details to note about the gear you use:
- The Colander: Most ordinary vegetable colanders are not appropriate for straining rice, as rice grains will slip through the large holes. Handheld fine-mesh strainers are also not appropriate because of their small volume. What is needed is a large, free-standing small-hole colander. If you are going to buy a new one, get the largest one that fits in your sink: The larger the colander, the more the parboiled rice can spread out and the pressure it will put on itself, risking breakage. (Note, though, that you will use a fine-mesh strainer when rinsing the raw rice, as the grains at that point are so thin that they can even get stuck in the holes of a small-hole colander.)
- Pot: Although you can make chelow in practically any type of pot, there are a few things that you may want to keep in mind. For the parboiling stage, the pot size is more important than the type of pot. You want a large enough pot to allow the rice grains to float and move around freely by themselves while the water is boiling vigorously—that's at a minimum a six-quart pot for three cups of rice, or a four-quart pot for two cups of rice—otherwise the rice grains will not swell or elongate properly. Typically, the same pot that had been used for parboiling is used again for the second steaming stage of cooking. During the second cooking stage, regardless of what type of pot is used, a layer of crunchy rice called tahdig, a Persian delicacy, is formed at the bottom of the pot. A well-seasoned cast-iron or glazed Dutch oven will make it easier to scrape out the crunchy layer. A nonstick pot will allow you to get the tahdig out in one piece.
- Towel-Wrapped-Lid: Covering the pot during the steaming stage with a towel-wrapped-lid is an ancient Persian cookery technique. It has been such an important technique that there is a word for the towel-wrapped-lid in Persian language. It is called damkoni (دمکنی). There are damkoni-fitted pot lid covers with elastic that slip over pot lids (a.k.a. Persian rice bonnet) that you can purchase online. They do the job, but they are no better than just using a clean, thick kitchen towel. Just be careful not to let the towel hang down the side or the pot, which would create a fire hazard.
In a large bowl, cover rice with enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Using your hand, swirl the rice around until the water turns cloudy. Pour off the cloudy water through a fine-mesh strainer, then return rice to bowl and refill with fresh cold water. Repeat the process until the water runs clear, about 5 or 6 times. Drain the washed rice well in the colander.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariReturn drained rice to large bowl along with 3 tablespoons (27g) salt. Add enough cold tap water to cover the rice by 1 inch. Gently stir to dissolve the salt. Let stand at room temperature for 2 hours. Drain in the small-hole colander.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariIn a large pot or Dutch oven, bring 2 quarts (1.9L) water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add 3 tablespoons (27g) salt. Add drained rice, then gently stir to ensure that there is no clumped rice and there is no rice stuck to the bottom of the pot. Return to a vigorous boil, then cook until the the rice has grown 1.5 to 2 times in length and the outside of each grain is cooked but not mushy and the center of the grain shows some resistance, 5 to 8 minutes. Immediately remove from heat and drain through a small-hole colander.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariRinse rice well with cold water for about 30 seconds (you want to stop the cooking and to wash off any excess starch released during boiling). Taste a few grains of rice for saltiness; if more seasoning is desired, sprinkle rice all over with 1 teaspoon salt. In a small pot, combine butter with 1/3 cup (80ml) water and heat just until butter is melted. If using saffron, in a very small bowl, steep ground saffron in two tablespoons of hot water; set aside.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariWash the pot used to parboil the rice. Pour half of the water and butter mixture into the pot. Using a large spoon or a spatula, gently mound the parboiled rice into the center of the bottom of the pot; do not dump the rice from the colander. Instead, carefully build the mound up, making sure the rice forms a mountain shape and does not touch the sides of the pot. Using the handle of a wooden spoon, make 6 to 8 holes deep into the mound including one in the center (this will facilitate the release of steam from the lower parts of the mound).
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariWrap the pot’s lid in a clean, thick kitchen towel, then cover the pot tightly (wrapping the lid in a kitchen towel prevents steam from escaping and absorbs any moisture that would have condensed on the inside of the lid and dripped down on the rice). Set over medium-high heat and cook until you can hear sizzling sounds inside the pot and steam begins to fill it (you can carefully lift the lid to peak if unsure), about 5 minutes. Uncover pot, gently pour the remaining water-butter mixture over the rice mound, then re-cover pot with the towel-wrapped lid. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook until rice is tender and fluffy, about 45 minutes.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariUsing a slotted spoon or a spatula, and starting from the top of the mound of rice in the pot, gently spoon the rice onto the center of a serving platter to form a mound. After each spoonful, fluff the rice in the pot before transferring the next spoonful. Continue until you reach the near bottom of the pot where you may find a crunchy layer of rice (the crunchy layer of rice at the bottom of the pot is a Persian delicacy called tahdig; scrape it off—it may or may not come out in one piece—and serve it on a separate small plate to be shared among the diners).
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariIf using saffron, add 2 or 3 heaping tablespoons of cooked rice to the prepared saffron water and stir to evenly coat. Sprinkle the golden yellow grains of saffroned rice garnish on top of the mound of rice in the serving platter. Serve.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariSpecial EquipmentFine-mesh strainer, small-hole colander (so rice doesn't slip through), large pot
NotesThe recipe detailed above calls for using Indian or Pakistani basmati rice. If you happen to get your hands on rice grown in Iran, since their grains are harder than Indian and Pakistani basmati rice, increase the soaking time to four hours. If you use American basmati rice, since they are typically not aged, reduce the soaking time to 30 minutes.
You can substitute the butter with ghee or vegetable oil, if desired, though butter will yield the most aromatic and rich-tasting tahdig.
There are a few spots during the parboiling stage and the steaming stage where it is impossible to specify the exact timing due to variability in the type of rice that you might be using, the heat transfer properties of your cooking vessels, the settings of your burners, etc. That is why the recipe provides other means to monitor the cooking process: by tasting, by feeling, by biting, by listening, etc. For more consistent results, the first time you are making this recipe, you should take notes as to what you did, then note needed adjustments that will enhance the results based on what you're using in your kitchen. In addition, to ensure consistency, I always use the same burner on my home kitchen’s stove to make chelow; I have even marked the control knob for that burner with additional indicators for better heat control, and always use the same two pots when making chelow to avoid any unnecessary variables.
Make-Ahead and StorageIf you don’t have time to soak the rice for the recommended 2 hours, you can soak it for 1 hour instead.
When I make chelow at home, I always make much more than I need for the immediate meal because if stored and warmed up properly, the aroma, texture and fluffiness of the leftover rice is nearly as good as freshly cooked chelow. For storing leftover rice, it's best not to put warm cooked rice directly into the refrigerator, as it will turn your leftovers into clumps. Instead, spread your leftover warm rice onto a baking sheet as close to a single layer as possible, let cool at room temperature for 30 minutes, and then scoop into an airtight container. Refrigerate and use within 1 week or freeze for up to 2 months.
Microwaves are ideal for reheating leftover rice. Put your leftover rice in a microwave-safe container, add a few tablespoons of water, cover tightly, and zap for a minute or two. The microwave will turn the added water into steam which in turn will warm and fluff up your leftover rice. You can put some aroma back into the warmed-up rice by pouring a few tablespoons of hot melted butter or ghee on top. You can also garnish it with a bit of saffron liquid for color and aroma. Instead of your microwave, you can also warm up your leftover in your oven in a tightly covered, oven-safe container with several tablespoons of water added; this is particularly efficient if you already have your oven on for other purposes.
Read More* How to Make Tahdig (Persian Crunchy Rice)
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariTahdig, the most coveted treat at a Persian meal—at times referred to as the jewel or the holy grail of Persian cooking, or the pièce de résistance of the Persian cook—is that delicious, buttery, golden, crunchy, round layer formed at the bottom of a pot of rice. Often fought over by family members and guests during meals, tahdig is considered a life-altering gustatory experience by some first timers and sparks fierce fury and competition among Persian home cooks. It routinely disappears seconds after having been put on the dinner table.
Literally translated, the Persian word tahdig (ته دیگ) means “bottom of the pot.” The classic process of making tahdig is part of traditional Persian fluffy steamed rice dishes such as chelow. It involves long-grain rice going through the stages of being thoroughly washed, soaked in salted water for several hours, parboiled in salted boiling water for several minutes, drained, rinsed with cold water, and then slowly steamed in a tightly covered pot, during which time the tahdig is formed as the rice gently crisps in butter at the bottom of the pot. The tahdig is then removed and served in broken golden shards or whole as a magnificent centerpiece.
I have written an extensive article on making chelow, which also includes a recipe that is largely identical to this one, as the process for making chelow also produces tahdig as a byproduct (this recipe leans a little harder into the art of perfecting tahdig, but they are otherwise the same). But since there's so much to say about both chelow and tahdig, the focus of the headnote in each article is significantly different. To learn more about the larger story of chelow, make sure to read that headnote as well.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariThere is a sense of mystery associated with making tahdig. It is formed on the very bottom of the pot, well-hidden under a mound of parboiled rice, all while the the pot is tightly lidded. Unlike many other common food preparations, you can’t easily see it, smell it, touch it, hear it, or taste it while it's being formed. Meanwhile the anticipation builds. Is it ready yet? Has it gotten crunchy and golden enough yet? Has it burned? Not to worry. The proven recipe and techniques detailed below will clear away the mystery; rewarding you and your fellow diners with the ultimate crunchy rice.
The History of TahdigMy favorite narrative about how tahdig came about dates to the royal menus of the kings of Iran’s Qajar Dynasty who ruled the Persian Empire in 1800s. According to this folkloric narrative, the servants who worked in the king’s residence would have their meals using the leftovers after the chef had served the king’s table. One day, the servants started arguing loudly over who would get the crunchy rice at the bottom of the pot. The commotion over the crunchy rice eventually reached the king and he asked that some of it be brought to him. The king enjoyed eating it, and ordered that this be served to him on a regular basis.
Whatever the true story, by the end of the nineteenth century, tahdig had become part of the diet of high-ranking and well-to-do families in Iran. Two of the earliest Persian cookbooks intended for Iranian urban housewives, written in Persian and published in the early 1900s, include explicit instructions for making tahdig. The principles behind tahdig in these early cookbooks have been—and continue to be—applied by Persian home cooks. The recipe provided here is consistent with these century-old practices, but adapted for a modern Western home kitchen.
The Science of TahdigYou can't talk about a golden, crispy crust of rice without talking about the Mailiard reaction, the same phenomenon that has a hand in creating the crunchy exterior of a baguette, golden French fries, and the coppery-crisp skin of a roast chicken. It is defined by the complex sequence of transformations that takes place when high heat is applied to amino acids and sugars in presence of some moisture in food, resulting in the development of highly desirable textures, colors, flavors, and aromas.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariIn making tahdig, however, the Millard reaction needs a second food-science partner to do the job: starch gelatinization. During the parboiling stage, in the presence of water and heat, starch granules in rice grains lose their crystalline structure, start to absorb water, and swell, i.e., they undergo gelatinization. It is these hydrated (gelatinized) rice grains at the bottom of the pot that are subjected to high heat from the stove burner and transform via the Maillard reaction, resulting in the unique texture, color, flavor, and aroma that makes tahdig so irresistible.
You may be wondering why the rest of the rice in the pot doesn’t get crunchy. With an appreciable amount of moisture present in the rest of the pot in the form of steam, and the highly hydrated rice mound above the tahdig layer, the temperature in the rest of the pot remains at just about the boiling point of water of 212° F (100° C), too low for the Maillard reaction to occur. This duality of Maillard reaction doing its magic at the bottom of the pot but not in the rest of the vessel is how tahdig can be crunchy on one side with fluffy rice grains hanging from the other.
Keys to Tahdig SuccessIt has been said that it takes years to perfect the art of making good tahdig. Having thought and observed others over the years, I have to disagree with that premise. The trick to making good tahdig is threefold:
- to take advantage of a proven recipe and its associated methods;
- to get to know your specific pots and your heat source;
- and to take careful notes from the first couple of times you make it to improve the next attempt.
Even if your tahdig does not come out perfect the first couple of times, it will still taste delicious. Moreover, these initial attempts are highly valuable as they will tell you, for example, whether you need more or less heat and whether you need to cook the tahdig for a longer or shorter period of time on a subsequent attempt.
Persian Tahdig CultureFirst and foremost, tahdig is served as an accompaniment along with the Persian rice dish that created it. And this is an important point—tahdig is not the entire rice dish, but instead the golden crust that is the byproduct of the rice dish itself.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariTraditionally, pieces of tahdig are scraped off the bottom of the pot and served either on the same platter as the accompanying rice dish or on a separate smaller plate. If served on a separate plate, it is passed around the table apart from the rice platter. With the proliferation of nonstick cooking vessels, it's now possible to remove the whole unbroken layer of tahdig from the bottom of the pot and serve it in one piece.
Persian rice dishes are often served along with one of the numerous types of exquisite slow-cooked braises called “khoresh” (خورش). A common practice among Persian food lovers is to pour some of the braise over their pieces of tahdig to soak up some of the wonderful savory flavors of the braise. In fact, in Persian restaurants, if one simply orders a side of tahdig, it often comes with a small portion of one the more popular khoreshes; typically, either the yellow split pea khoresh—khoresh-é-gheimeh—or the green herb khoresh—khoresh-é-sabzi—to pour over the crunchy rice. (By the way, many Persian restaurants do not list tahdig on the menu simply because, although they serve plenty of rice dishes, there isn’t enough tahdig generated to give to each customer. But they often have some in the kitchen. If you want some, kindly and quietly ask your waiter and you may be lucky enough to get some.)
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariWith tahdig, there is no concept of leftovers as it is the portion of the meal that disappears completely from the table. There is never enough of it to the point that even individual tahdig crumbs are not wasted.
Before the invention of nonstick cooking vessels, tahdig had to be scraped out of the bottom of the pot in small or large pieces. This process always created a small amount of individual crunchy rice kernels sitting at the bottom of the pot. Some home cooks, including my maternal grandmother, would then throw a fistful of fluffy cooked rice onto the bottom of the pot to capture both the tahdig crumbs and the naturally remaining butter from the bottom of the pot. The cook would then put a few tablespoons of the mixture in the palm of one hand, close their fist, and form an oblong-shaped delightful snack approximately 2 centimeters wide and 4 centimeters long. In Persian, the common name for this scarce creation is “changāli,” meaning something that was formed by closing fingers towards the palm of the hand forming a fist. The cook would then give these special treats to her or his “special people” at the table (as there would only be at most two or three of them) such as the younger members of the family. A double sign of love and caring of the cook, first for not letting anything go to waste and second for sharing the treats with the most loved ones at the table.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariEssential Equipment for TahdigWhile tahdig doesn't require much in terms of specialized equipment, there are some important details to note about the gear you use:
- The Colander: Most ordinary vegetable colanders are not appropriate for straining rice, as rice grains will slip through the large holes. Handheld fine-mesh strainers are also not appropriate once the rice is parboiled because of their small volume. What is needed is a large, free-standing small-hole colander. If you are going to buy a new one, get the largest one that fits in your sink: The larger the colander, the more the parboiled rice can spread out and the pressure it will put on itself, risking breakage. (Note, though, that you will use a fine-mesh strainer when rinsing the raw rice, as the grains at that point are so thin that they can even get stuck in the holes of a small-hole colander.)
- Pot: Although you can make tahdig in practically any type of pot, there are a few things that you may want to keep in mind. For the parboiling stage, the pot size is more important than the type of pot. You want a large enough pot to allow the rice grains to float and move around freely by themselves while the water is boiling vigorously—that's at a minimum a six-quart pot for three cups of rice, or a four-quart pot for two cups of rice—otherwise the rice grains will not swell or elongate properly. Typically, the same pot that had been used for parboiling is used again for the second steaming stage of cooking. During the second cooking stage, regardless of what type of pot is used, a layer of crunchy rice called tahdig, a Persian delicacy, is formed at the bottom of the pot. A well-seasoned cast-iron or glazed Dutch oven will make it easier to scrape out the crunchy layer. A nonstick pot will allow you to get the tahdig out in one piece.
- Towel-Wrapped-Lid: Covering the pot during the steaming stage with a towel-wrapped-lid is an ancient Persian cookery technique. It has been such an important technique that there is a word for the towel-wrapped-lid in Persian language. It is called damkoni (دمکنی). There are damkoni-fitted pot lid covers with elastic that slip over pot lids (a.k.a. Persian rice bonnet) that you can purchase online. They do the job, but they are no better than just using a clean, thick kitchen towel. Just be careful not to let the towel hang down the side or the pot, which would create a fire hazard.
- Heat Diffuser: One of the most important aspects of making good tahdig is to ensure even heat distribution during the steaming stage—this leads to more even browning and crisping on the bottom of the pot. While not required, many Iranian home cooks use an inexpensive heat diffuser, a.k.a. A flamer tamer. Alternative means of ensuring even heating include using heavy-bottom pots and rotating your pot every 10 minutes. I often use a combination of these techniques to maximize good results.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariSome may be wondering about alternate methods and equipment for producing tahdig, but very few electric rice cookers are designed to do justice to basmati rice let alone making tahdig. There is, however, one brand of electric rice cooker that does an acceptable job of making tahdig: The Pars rice cookers, which are made in Iran but are available in the Western world. They use an absorption method (as opposed to steaming) to cook the rice. They are fully automatic and come in a variety of sizes from 3- to 15-cup capacity. Since they use absorption to cook the rice, the resulting rice is not as light and fluffy, but their internal automatic electric heating system is designed to produce a relatively thin but acceptable crunchy tahdig in one hour. I use this if I am in a hurry, if I have forgotten to soak my rice ahead of time, if I am not cooking for guests, if I am cooking for one or two, and if I want tahdig badly—a lot of ifs there.
How about making tahdig in an Instant Pot? I have tested several different techniques (tricks) to make tahdig in an Instant Pot. I do not recommend it whatsoever. In my tests, not much time was saved, and more importantly, the results were quite unacceptable. There is also a relatively new single-use-kitchen-appliance on the market called The Crispy Rice Cooker. I have not tested it myself yet. Based on what I have read and the videos I have watched, it appears to be a combined non-stick electric frying pan and an extremely shallow (1.5-inch tall) round (6-inch diameter) absorption-style rice cooker. It appears to have been designed for preparing single-servings of certain Southeast Asian rice dishes and not appropriate for making traditional Persian tahdig.
Tahdig VarietiesOver the years, Persian home cooks have turned tahdig making into a genre of its own by incorporating other ingredients into the process.
Some of the common ingredients used by Persian cooks to enhance the flavor and modify the texture of their tahdig include steeped liquid saffron, yogurt, or egg yolk. Adding a few teaspoons of steeped liquid saffron to the bottom of the pot enhances both the color and the aroma of the tahdig. Adding yogurt reduces the amount of oil needed and introduces a good amount of tanginess to the tahdig. The addition of egg yolk, meanwhile, results in a slightly more pliable tahdig.
Persian cooks have also expanded the technique of creating a crunchy layer of rice at the bottom of the pot to other ingredients besides rice by carefully incorporating vegetables, bread, meat, poultry, or seafood into the process. In addition to the creation of an expanded set of crunchy delights, these modified methods provide an opportunity for other ingredients to be cooked at the same time and within the same vessel as the rice. Incorporating slices of potato into the tahdig is the most popular of such modifications, followed in popularity by adding various flatbreads (in particular, Persian lavash).
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariMy recommendation, however, is to start your tahdig journey with just the basic rice version using the basic tahdig recipe detailed below. After making the basic rice version once or twice, then try some of the variations. Instructions for making several variations are provided below.
For each of the following variations, only the additional needed ingredients are listed.
Saffron TahdigCharacteristics: The resulting tahdig will have a uniform bright orange color and a strong saffron aroma.
To Make: Steep an additional 1/4 teaspoon ground saffron in 2 tablespoons (30ml) hot water. At Step 5 of the basic recipe, add the steeped saffron liquid to the melted butter and water in the pot. Then add 1 1/2 cups parboiled rice to the pot and thoroughly but gently mix with saffron mixture until evenly coated. Spread rice evenly across the bottom of the pot, then proceed with the recipe, building the mound by gently piling the remaining parboiled rice on top and forming holes in the mound.
Yogurt TahdigCharacteristics: The resulting tahdig will have a slightly smoother, yet still crunchy, surface with a pleasant tangy flavor. If using full-fat yogurt, you can reduce the amount of butter a bit. Yogurt tahdig typically comes off the bottom of the pot a bit easier than the basic recipe.
To Make: At Step 5 of the basic recipe, thoroughly mix 1/2 cup yogurt (any unflavored yogurt will work, but I prefer the richness that the tangiest, fullest-fat yogurt provides) to the melted butter and water in the pot. Then add 1 1/2 cups parboiled rice to the pot and thoroughly but gently mix with yogurt mixture until evenly coated. Spread rice evenly across the bottom of the pot, then proceed with the recipe, building the mound by gently piling the remaining parboiled rice on top and forming holes in the mound.
Potato TahdigCharacteristics: This variation features a buttery layer of crispy potato rounds with pieces of crunchy rice surrounding them—the best of both worlds! You can slice the potatoes thicker for a more simple pattern of non-overlapping pieces, or go thinner and cover the bottom of the pot with the potato rounds overlapping, for a result that looks like pommes Anna! (Note that fewer pieces of potato will create more crispy rice, while an overlapping pattern will cover more of the surface, creating more crispy potato but less crispy rice.)
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariTo Make: In Steps 4 and 5 of the basic recipe, instead of a mixture of water and melted butter, melt the butter alone and add it to the pot, swirling to coat the bottom of the pot evenly. Thinly slice a peeled Yukon Gold potato (either 1/4 inch thick, for fewer, thicker slices, or 1/8 inch thick for more thin ones). Cover the bottom of the pot with the sliced potato rounds in a ringed pattern, either overlapping (if using thinner slices) or not (if using thicker ones). Sprinkle the potatoes all over with 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Now follow the rest of Step 5 by gently spooning the parboiled rice into the center of the bottom of the pot forming a mound and making holes.
Egg Yolk TahdigCharacteristics: The resulting tahdig will have a smoother surface, will be more pliable, and will have a slight omelet aroma.
At Step 5 of the basic recipe, thoroughly mix 1 large egg yolk with the melted butter and water in the pot. Add 1 1/2 cups parboiled rice to the pot and thoroughly but gently mix with yolk mixture until evenly coated. Spread rice evenly across the bottom of the pot, then proceed with the recipe, building the mound by gently piling the remaining parboiled rice on top and forming holes in the mound.
Saffron, Yogurt, Egg Yolk TahdigCharacteristics: This will be one of the richest and most aromatic of the tahdig varieties.
To Make: Simply combine the additional ingredients and instructions called for above for saffron tahdig, yogurt tahdig, and egg yolk tahdig, shortening steaming time by 10 minutes per the egg yolk and yogurt tahdig instructions.
Lavash TahdigCharacteristics: This variation results in a crunchy, buttery layer of lavash bread (possibly more delicious than any buttered toast)—not crunchy rice. Regardless of the kind of pot you use, it rarely sticks to the bottom of the pot and usually comes out in one piece. If your lavash bread is very thin, consider making two layers with some extra melted butter brushed in between.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariTo Make: In Steps 4 and 5 of the basic recipe, instead of a mixture of water and melted butter, melt the butter alone and add it to the pot, swirling to coat the bottom of the pot evenly. Cover the bottom of the pot with a layer of lavash bread, either as one round piece covering the entire bottom of the pot or with torn smaller pieces making a lavash patchwork. Now follow the rest of Step 5 by gently spooning the parboiled rice into the center of the bottom of the pot forming a mound and making holes.
Other Tahdig VariationsInstead of Lavash bread, you can use flour or corn tortillas. You can also cover the bottom of the pot with lettuce leaves (romaine is most common but other kinds work) resulting in a crunchy round layer of lettuce! Instead of potato rounds, you can use other vegetables like eggplant, zucchini, fennel, etc. (they won't all get as crispy as potatoes and rice, but they will be delicious). You can even cover the bottom of the pot with chicken wings—using only the wing flats ensures better contact with the bottom of the pan than drumettes or whole wings—or shelled shrimp, though there is the downside of the shrimp being overcooked in order to get them to the crispy stage in the steaming pot. The world of tahdig variations is only limited by your imagination.
In a large bowl, cover rice with enough cold water to cover by 1-inch. Using your hand, swirl the rice around until the water turns cloudy. Pour off the cloudy water through a fine-mesh strainer to catch any escaping rice, then return rice to bowl and refill with fresh cold water. Repeat the process until the water runs clear, about 5 or 6 times. Drain the washed rice well in the colander.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariReturn drained rice to large bowl along with 3 tablespoons (27g) salt. Add enough cold tap water to cover the rice by 1 inch. Gently stir to dissolve the salt. Let stand at room temperature for 2 hours. Drain in the small-hole colander.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariIn a large nonstick pot or enameled Dutch oven, bring 2 quarts (1.9L) water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add 3 tablespoons (27g) salt. Add drained rice, then gently stir to ensure that there is no clumped rice and there is no rice stuck to the bottom of the pot. Return to a vigorous boil, then cook until the the rice has grown 1.5 to 2 times in length and the outside of each grain is cooked but not mushy and the center of the grain shows some resistance, 5 to 8 minutes. Immediately remove from heat and drain through a small-hole colander.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariRinse rice well with cold water for about 30 seconds (you want to stop the cooking and to wash off any excess starch released during boiling). Taste a few grains of rice for saltiness; if more seasoning is desired, sprinkle rice all over with 1 teaspoon salt. In a small pot, combine butter with 1/3 cup (80ml) water and heat just until butter is melted. If using saffron, in a very small bowl, steep ground saffron in two tablespoons of hot water; set aside.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariWash the pot used to parboil the rice. Pour half of the water and butter mixture into the pot. Using a large spoon or a spatula, gently mound the parboiled rice into the center of the bottom of the pot; do not dump the rice from the colander. Instead, carefully build the mound up, making sure the rice forms a mountain shape and does not touch the sides of the pot. Using the handle of a wooden spoon, make 6 to 8 holes deep into the mound including one in the center (this will facilitate the release of steam from the lower parts of the mound).
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariWrap the pot’s lid in a clean, thick kitchen towel, then cover the pot tightly (wrapping the lid in a kitchen towel prevents steam from escaping and absorbs any moisture that would have condensed on the inside of the lid and dripped down on the rice). Set over medium-high heat (use a heat diffuser, if you have one, for more even browning) and cook until you can hear sizzling sounds inside the pot and steam begins to fill it (you can carefully lift the lid to peak if unsure), about 5 minutes. Uncover pot, gently pour the remaining water-butter mixture over the rice mound, then re-cover pot with the towel-wrapped lid. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, rotating the pot a quarter-turn every 10 to 15 minutes, until rice is tender and fluffy, about 45 minutes. Continue cooking about 10 minutes longer to help in the formation of the tahdig (you can go even longer for a thicker and crunchier tahdig, though it's best to lower the heat even further if you do so to minimize the risk of burning).
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariFill your sink with 1 inch cold water. Without taking the lid off the pot, set the rice pot immediately in the water filled sink (alternatively, set the pot on top of a thoroughly wet kitchen towel); this will help in getting the tahdig out. Let stand 4 minutes. Move the pot to your kitchen counter and carefully remove the lid (you want to avoid any hot steam that might come out, and also make sure not to let any condensed water drip down onto the rice mound).
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariUsing a slotted spoon or a spatula, and starting from the top of the mound of rice in the pot, gently spoon the rice onto the center of a serving platter to form a mound. After each spoonful, fluff the rice in the pot before transferring the next spoonful. Continue until you reach the near bottom of the pot where you may find a crunchy layer of rice; leave it in the pot for now. If using saffron, add 2 or 3 heaping tablespoons of cooked rice to the prepared saffron water and stir to evenly coat. Sprinkle the golden yellow grains of saffroned rice garnish on top of the mound of rice in the serving platter, then serve.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariIf using a nonstick pot, invert a round serving platter (slightly wider than the diameter of the pot) on top of the pot. Firmly grab both the serving platter and the pot and carefully but quickly flip them over together. Lift off the pot. The entire tahdig should have released from the bottom of the pot onto the serving platter in one piece. If you have not used a non-stick pot, there is still a chance that the tahdig may come out in one piece. Run a thin, flexible silicone spatula around the bottom of the pot to gently separate the edges of the tahdig from the side of the pot. Go around a couple of times, each time a bit deeper between the tahdig and the bottom of the pot. If you can feel that the entire tahdig has come loose, use the same flipping technique described above for a nonstick pot. If the tahdig is still stuck to the bottom of the pot (which is common), use a spoon or flat spatula to remove the tahdig in as large of pieces as possible. Arrange the crispy, beautiful, irresistible tahdig pieces on a separate small plate or arrange on the same serving platter as the fluffy rice.
Serious Eats / Nader MehravariSpecial EquipmentFine-mesh strainer, small-hole colander, large pot (preferably nonstick or enameled cast iron), heat diffuser (optional but recommended)
NotesThe recipe detailed above calls for using Indian or Pakistani basmati rice. If you happen to get your hands on rice grown in Iran, since their grains are harder than Indian and Pakistani basmati rice, increase the soaking time to four hours. If you use American basmati rice, since they are typically not aged, reduce the soaking time to 30 minutes.
You can substitute the butter with ghee or vegetable oil, if desired, though butter will yield the most aromatic and rich-tasting tahdig.
There are a few spots during the parboiling stage and the steaming stage where it is impossible to specify the exact timing due to variability in the type of rice that you might be using, the heat transfer properties of your cooking vessels, the settings of your burners, etc. That is why the recipe provides other means to monitor the cooking process: by tasting, by feeling, by biting, by listening, etc. For more consistent results, the first time you are making this recipe, you should take notes as to what you did, then note needed adjustments that will enhance the results based on what you're using in your kitchen. In addition, to ensure consistency, I always use the same burner on my home kitchen’s stove to make chelow; I have even marked the control knob for that burner with additional indicators for better heat control, and always use the same two pots when making chelow to avoid any unnecessary variables.
Make-Ahead and StorageIf you don't have time to soak the rice for the recommended 2 hours, you can soak it for 1 hour instead.
When I make tahdig and chelow (Persian rice) at home, I always make much more than I need for the immediate meal because if stored and warmed up properly, the aroma, texture and fluffiness of the leftover rice is nearly as good as freshly cooked chelow. As I wrote before, there's never any leftover tahdig, but you can store any leftover rice. To do so, remember that it's best not to put warm cooked rice directly into the refrigerator, as it will turn your leftovers into clumps. Instead, spread your leftover warm rice onto a baking sheet as close to a single layer as possible, let cool at room temperature for 30 minutes, and then scoop into an airtight container. Refrigerate and use within 1 week or freeze for up to 2 months.
Notes on Scaling RecipeWith regards to scaling the recipe for a smaller or larger amount of rice, use the following table:
Read More* Chelow (Persian Steamed White Rice)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWriting a recipe for tacu tacu might strike many a Peruvian as a somewhat unnecessary act: Tacu tacu is usually whipped up as a way to use leftover rice and beans, and isn't generally something one sets out to make from scratch. Context is everything, though, and for those of us who don't have Peruvian leftovers in our fridge with frequency, there's more of a rationale to outlining the entire process. Once you get the general idea, though, feel free to ditch the recipe and just mix your rice and beans together in a pan with seasonings and fry it into a hearty meal, as that's the true spirit of tacu tacu.
Given its role as a method of using up leftovers, there are lots of possibilities for variation with tacu tacu. One of the most common beans used is the mayocoba, a creamy beige bean that also goes by the names "canary" and "peruano" and is, as the last of these names suggests, very popular in Peru. But tacu tacu can also be made with lentils and lima beans, and, while less traditional, black beans, which is how my friend Raquel (who taught me to make tacu tacu) prefers it—and given that she's a phenomenal cook who grew up in the Peruvian city of Trujillo, widely considered one of the country's gastronomic centers, I fully trust her opinion.
Tacu tacu can be served any number of ways—with a fried egg for breakfast, alongside a piece of pan-seared or fried meat, or with leftover braises, stews, and other saucy dishes. If you're using a leftover stew, you can even mix a bit of the stew's juices into the tacu tacu, just to amp up the flavor. Frequently served atop or alongside the tacu tacu is zarza (a.k.a. salsa criolla), a simple salad of sliced red onion with cilantro, lime juice, and some thinly sliced chile pepper (ideally ají amarillo, which you can buy frozen in markets with a Peruvian food section). It adds a welcome bright and punchy note to the otherwise earthy rice-and-bean cake.
Frankly, the basic idea of tacu tacu can be applied to rice and bean leftovers even outside the Peruvian tradition with great results. The dish is just one example of the many rice-and-bean dishes of the African diaspora, from Puerto rican arroz con gandules to Jamaican peas and rice and Southern American hoppin' John. No matter the source of your rice and beans dinner, there's always potential for a rice-and-bean pancake breakfast the next day.
For the Beans: In a large bowl, cover beans with at least 2 inches cold water. Stir in 2 teaspoons salt and let soak at room temperature for at least 8 and up to 24 hours.
Transfer beans and their soaking liquid to a large pot, then top up with enough water to cover by about 2 inches. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and cook at a simmer, stirring occasionally, until beans are very soft and creamy and enough have broken down that the cooking liquid has thickened to a creamy glaze, about 3 hours; add additional water, if needed at any point, to prevent the beans from becoming overly dry. Season with salt, if needed.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a small skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add bacon (if using), and cook, stirring, until fat begins to render, about 2 minutes. Add onion and cook, stirring, until onion has softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in achiote paste, ají amarillo paste, and dried oregano, and cook for 2 minutes. Stir onion mixture into beans. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Rice: In a 2-quart saucepan, heat oil and garlic over medium heat until garlic is fragrant and has lost its raw smell but not browned, about 1 minute. Add rice and cook, stirring, until coated in oil and heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. Add water, bring to a boil, then cover, reduce heat to low, and cook until water is absorbed and rice is tender, 15 minutes. Fluff rice, season lightly with salt, then cover and let stand for 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Zarza: In a small bowl, toss sliced onion with the ají amarillo pepper, and cilantro. Just before serving, toss with lime juice, a few drops of olive oil, salt and pepper, and ground cumin.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor One Tacu Tacu Cake: In a small bowl, stir together beans with their creamy cooking liquid and rice; how much rice you add will depend on how thick the bean cooking liquid has become (the thicker it is, the less rice you will need to thicken it) and personal preference. In an 8- or 10-inch nonstick skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add rice-and-bean mixture, press into a flat, round shape, and cook, using a spatula to press and pack the mixture into a thick disc shape, until tacu tacu is browned on first side, about 6 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFlip tacu tacu (either by inverting a plate over the skillet, flipping the tacu tacu onto the plate, and the sliding it back into the skillet, or by launching it into the air and catching it back in the skillet, if you're confident in your flipping skills). Continue to cook, using the spatula to press the tacu tacu into a disc shape. Slide tacu tacu onto a plate and serve with zarsa and any sides of your choice (such as a fried egg, fried plantains, a seared or fried steak, or some leftover stew). Repeat with remaining rice and beans, if desired, to make more tacu tacu as desired.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMake-Ahead and StorageThe beans and rice can be made ahead and refrigerated separately for up to 5 days (that it, after all, what normally happens with the leftovers used to make tacu tacu).
Vicky WasikWhile brownies made from scratch are delicious in their own right, for me, boxed brownies will always reign supreme. They’re easy and reliable, and—contrary to other quick alternatives, like canned soup, that are chosen more for convenience than flavor—are actually pretty equal to their homemade counterparts. Sometimes there’s a craving for a fudgy brownie with a glossy top that only a box of Duncan Hines or Ghirardelli can fulfill.
But while I’m loyal to boxed brownies, there are plenty of times that call for taking the batter to the next level. Whether you want to bring them over to a friend’s house, or just make movie night a little more special, sprucing up a box of brownie batter is an incredibly simple task. I have my own tricks for doing this, and I also know my colleagues do, too. Here are our favorite tips for elevating the boxed brownies you already love to a level you didn’t even think was possible.
Fruits and NutsLiz VoltzFruits and nuts are great for introducing more flavor and texture to your brownies. When it comes to nuts, you can reach for whatever you have in your pantry—salted, candied, or otherwise. “When I make brownies or blondies, I like to add toasted nuts for extra crunch and flavor,” says culinary editor Genevieve Yam. “Any nut will do, but my favorites are pecans and walnuts.” Feel free to chop them up and mix them into the batter, or add them on top for even more visual appeal.
Candied fruit like orange peel, ginger, or pineapple are great for extra sweetness and chew. When mixing in preserved or fresh fruits, Genevieve recommends tossing them in a bit of flour before incorporating into the batter to prevent them from sinking to the bottom. Some stem ginger in syrup would also be a wonderful addition.
Spices and SaltsSpices and salts can really transform the overall flavor of a brownie. Chile powder is famous for pairing well with chocolate, so you can start by adding a small amount—about 1/2 teaspoon—and adjusting to your liking. Cinnamon and cardamom are also excellent pairings (and known friends of chocolate!). If using a flaky sea salt like Maldon, pour your brownie batter into the pan first and then finish it off with an even sprinkling over the top of the batter for extra crunch and textural contrast.
Sweet, Savory, and BoozySwirling in new ingredients doesn’t just add flavor, it can also give your brownies a beautifully marbled appearance. It’s also easy to find new and inventive flavor combinations just by looking in your pantry. Try pastes like pistachio or nut butters, tahini, or even jams. Caramel is another great option, including cajeta or dulce de leche. “Brownies are always better with caramel, and a quick caramel sauce swirled into the batter with a sprinkle of salt adds extreme decadence to the ordinary,” says commerce writer Jesse Raub.
Photographs: Nila Jones [Photograph: Nila JonesSprinkles are an easy swap-in (and ones that kids will especially love), which you can either incorporate into the batter or sprinkle on top before baking. If you’re a fan of brittle, you can easily crush or chop it up and mix it into the batter. And if you want something savory, ingredients like crushed up potato chips or pretzels also work well flavor-wise while simultaneously adding an element of texture.
Another easy (if perhaps less common) option is incorporating sweetened cheeses like cream cheese or mascarpone. When going this route, Genevieve notes the importance of straining the cheese if it’s on the wet side (i.e. ricotta), or you’ll end up introducing unwanted moisture.
Some of our team's favorite ways to spruce up brownie batter involve using flavor enhancers like malted milk powder, browned butter, and high-quality vanilla (either extract or from the bean).
“I'll never forget when Stella told me that malted milk powder is basically the umami bomb of the baking world—a flavor enhancer that maximizes sweet foods in deliciously butterscotchy ways,” says senior culinary director Daniel Gritzer. “To that end, spiking a brownie mix with some malted milk powder sounds like a pro move for a subtle boost. According to Stella, you can add it to most desserts without throwing off the rest of the recipe, making it an easy add-in.”
Updates editor Jake Dean loves to go the browned butter route. “My wife Andrea is the baker in our house, and our friends often request she make brown butter blondies,” he says. “I think using browned butter in place of regular melted butter adds an intriguing quality to easy baked goods, and would be a great way to add nuance and depth to store-bought brownie mix.” Genevieve notes that since water evaporates when you brown butter, you may need to add a little more browned butter than what the box calls for with regular butter.
One final tip that shouldn’t be missed? A splash of a dark liquor like bourbon or rum is a simple and boozy way to round out the rich chocolate flavor of a boxed brownie. Perhaps the biggest question left to answer is which trick you'll try first!
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezWe’re not shy about how much we love our favorite coffee makers, but there’s no denying it: our top picks are more expensive than the average brewer. We tested 16 models across varying price points, and the costlier models won out every time.
In order to learn more about why they performed better, we talked to the makers of the Ratio Six Coffee Maker and OXO Brew 8-Cup Coffee Maker and OXO Brew 9-Cup Coffee Maker to find out what makes them stand apart, and why they cost more money to produce.
Pricier Coffee Makers Are More Powerful The first thing that sets high-end coffee makers apart from the competition is raw power. The Ratio Six Coffee Maker, the OXO Brew 8-Cup and the OXO Brew 9-Cup are all rated at 1400 watts, which means they can heat water much faster than cheaper models. Both brewers completed full brew cycles in around five to six minutes in accordance with the Specialty Coffee Associations home brewer standards. Conversely, many cheaper brewers are rated at 900 watts or lower, and took more than 10 minutes to brew. But aside from power, the actual design of the flash-heating chamber is another thing that sets these machines apart.
Both the Ratio Six and the OXO brewers use a cast aluminum coil as their heating element, which wraps around the chamber in a spiral and heats the water to boiling in just a few seconds, sending it up to the spray head after. “Cheaper models often use a horseshoe-shaped heating element that has a double purpose: also powering the hot plate,” says Ratio founder Mark Hellweg. These horseshoe-shaped heating elements don’t fully surround the heating chamber and are usually rated for lower wattage, making them less efficient than coil-shaped heating elements. They’re also a lot cheaper to manufacture, and don’t require a high-wattage cord either: another cost-saving measure. But even horseshoe-shaped heating elements can hit boiling temperatures, eventually, which brings us to our next point.
They Have Precision Temperature ControlSerious Eats / Ashley RodriguezIn our testing, the Ratio Six and OXO brewers reached target temperatures of 195-205ºF within the first 45 seconds and held those temperatures for the entire brew cycle. Less powerful brewers took two to three minutes to reach a peak temperature of only 185ºF and then would skyrocket to 208ºF to 210ºF in the last minute of the brew cycle, which is too hot.
“During development, we extensively tested each brewing mode to ensure the coffee bed reached the optimal temperature for extraction,” says OXO category director Liz Grasing. Calibrating the brewing temperature involves tracking how much heat the water gains and loses as it travels to the showerhead, and also how much heat the coffee itself absorbs. That includes measuring how long the water lines are, how the spray head disperses the water, and even the materials that the parts are made out of. The plastic spray head on the OXO brewers will absorb less heat than the metal spray head on the Ratio Six, but both have been calibrated to deliver the same temperature stability.
They Have Unique Spray HeadsSerious Eats / Jesse RaubSpeaking of the spray heads: both brewers have specifically designed spray heads that saturate the coffee evenly during extraction. Cheaper brewers tend to concentrate water towards the center of the coffee bed, over-extracting bitter flavors. While the Ratio Six has a metal spray head with a slight spiral pattern, both OXO brewers have a trademarked design they call “The Rainmaker,” which features different channels that divert the water to each hole.
In our testing, it was clear that the coffee bed from both of these brewers was evenly saturated, while cheaper brewers had big divots in the center. High-quality spray heads might seem like a picky detail, but they made a huge difference in our taste tests and required more engineering than the systems in cheaper brewers. Both Hellweg and Grasing explained that Ratio and OXO iterated on a number of spray head designs and extensive testing before landing on their final version.
They Feature Advanced Water DeliveryAnother great feature of high-end brewers is the built-in bloom cycle. Fresh coffee has a lot of carbon dioxide in it that immediately releases when hit with hot water, often referred to as the “bloom.” Both the Ratio Six and the OXO brewers have built-in programming that automatically blooms the coffee, and OXO even has a proportional bloom depending on the size of the batch you’re brewing. “What's unique about OXO coffee makers is that we optimize the time and temperature based on the brew size—if you're brewing two to four cups, the coffee maker will deliver an appropriate amount of water to bloom the coffee, and then finish brewing,” Grasing says.
They Have Higher Build Quality Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezWhat sets the Ratio Six apart, and is a big reason why it’s the most expensive brewer we tested, is the build quality. While the outside of the brewer is made from stamped stainless steel (compared to the plastic body of most home machines), the inside uses borosilicate glass water supply lines. “They’re also designed to be serviceable,” Hellweg says. “If you open up a Ratio Six, you’ll see screws.” Every part in the Ratio Six brewer is designed to be swappable, so even if something fails, the machine can be repaired time and time again. Each brewer also comes with a 5-year warranty. Most cheaper coffee brewers on the market don’t have this, and are usually thrown out if something breaks.
So, Why Are These Coffee Makers So Expensive? Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezThe short answer is that high-end coffee makers perform well because the manufacturers invest in high-quality materials that have been tested for their performance, making each brewer more expensive to produce. So, while our favorite coffee makers might be in a higher-price category we think they’re worth the investment.
FAQsIs a high-end coffee maker worth it? We think so. While our top coffee maker picks might be more expensive than most of what’s out there, these brewers are designed with high-quality parts and are engineered for performance. They outclassed all of the other brewers tested in taste tests, and have higher-build quality than cheaper brewers designed to last, as well.
Why does coffee from a coffee shop (usually) taste better? Coffee shops have one major advantage over most home coffee equipment: the quality of the brewer they use. Commercial coffee machines have precision temperature control, built-in bloom cycles, and spray heads that saturate the coffee evenly. While most home coffee makers don’t have these features, our favorite automatic drip coffee makers do. They might be more expensive than a lot of the competition, but they make cafe-quality coffee achievable in your own home.
Serious Eats / Chloe JeongLe Creuset and Staub Dutch ovens are iconic. Both have been around for a long time: Le Creuset since 1925 and Staub since 1974. And we’ve long recommended both brands—anecdotally (with Serious Eats staffers having used them at home and in our test kitchen) and objectively (both having came out on top after reviewing 20 Dutch ovens).
While both of these colorful pots are truly exceptional, do-it-all workhorses, there are some points to consider when deciding whether Le Creuset or Staub is right for you. Namely, durability and manufacturing, design, color selection, cleanup, and price.
Durability and ManufacturingWith both Le Creuset and Staub, you’re getting an extremely durable, incredibly long-lasting piece of cookware. It’s one of the reasons we recommend investing in heritage brand enameled cast iron. Both Le Creuset and Staub have their own production factories (unlike other manufacturers that outsource this) and maintain strict standards. As we said in our review: "The engineers at the Staub foundry, for example, adjust the moisture of the sand in the molds that form their Dutch ovens daily based on the air's humidity. At Le Creuset's factory in Fresnoy-le-Grand, about two hours north of Paris, 15 employees inspect every pot before it ships out."
This means that you’re unlikely to receive a pot with manufacturer defects. As a further sign of their quality, both Le Creuset and Staub offer lifetime warranties (as do the majority of other Dutch oven manufacturers).
DesignSerious Eats / Will DickeyThis is where the two brands split more. Most notably, Le Creuset has a light enameled interior while Staub has a black enameled interior. Some cooks may find the black enamel of the Staub makes it hard to see fond development. However, it also means it’s less likely to show the natural scuffs, scratches, and discoloration that happens with regularly using cookware. So, it’s really personal preference.
The handles are also a bit different. Le Creuset features wide, looped handles and a sizable knob on its Dutch oven’s lid. Staub’s pot has slightly narrower handles with squared-off edges and a smaller knob on its lid. Neither are bad, but some cooks may prefer the roomier handles of the Le Creuset, especially when transferring it from the stovetop to the oven with bulky oven mitts on.
Color SelectionBoth Le Creuset and Staub have a range of classic, always-available colors. The orangey Flame is iconic for Le Creuset, while Staub’s Cherry is a notable color. However, both brands also routinely come out with new, sometimes limited-edition colors (some are available exclusively at specialty retailers, like Williams Sonoma). So, they’re both pretty even here.
CleanupWe’ve got a whole article devoted to cleaning a Dutch oven and both Le Creuset and Staub involve the same basic sort of daily care. If you’re concerned about interior marks/polymerized oil splotches on the exterior, you might want to opt for a Staub in a darker colorway. Its black interior will help hide marks and a darker exterior (like a deep red) will camouflage things a bit.
PriceSerious Eats / Will DickeyAt the time of writing, a 5.5-quart Le Creuset is $400, while a 5.5-quart Staub is $311. So, Staub’s a bit cheaper, but both are still expensive and within the same price range. And, ultimately, with a piece of cookware that’s going to last as long as a Dutch oven, you should invest in the one you really want.
So, Should You Buy a Le Creuset or Staub Dutch Oven? Sorry, but the answer is: either. Both are incredible pieces of cookware and are designed to last a long time and come with a reputation for quality.
FAQsIs Le Creuset or Staub better? Neither is necessarily “better,” and both have reputations for quality and excellent cookware. Le Creuset’s Dutch ovens have wider handles and light-colored interiors, which makes it easier to see fond development. Staub Dutch ovens have slightly smaller handles and black interiors, which can be tougher for monitoring cooking progress, but hide marks and stains better.
What’s the best Dutch oven? We reviewed Dutch ovens and named models from Le Creuset, Staub, Milo by Kana, and Cuisinart our top picks (they come at a variety of price points). You can read our full review here.
What size Dutch oven is best? We recommend a 5- to 5.5-quart Dutch oven for most home cooks, which is plenty big and will get you through recipes that serve four with ease. For those looking for something larger, opt for a 7- to 7 1/2-quart Dutch oven.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPaella is the word on everyone's lips when Spanish rice is the topic. But I'd argue that as deserving as paella is of its international fame, its sibling—arroz al horno—is the dish home cooks should devote more of their attention to. Born in Valencia, the rice-growing province that created paella, arroz al horno shares many of the great qualities of paella with a fraction of the challenges. Like paella, arroz al horno boasts deeply flavorful short-grain rice cooked in a single vessel with a customizable array of proteins, legumes, and vegetables. But unlike paella, arroz al horno does not need to be carefully tended over a live fire (or, if you're adapting it for the home kitchen, a stovetop burner), with all the associated risk of scorching and uneven cooking that comes with it.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRecipes for arroz al horno valenciano (that is, baked rice in the style of Valencia) vary quite a bit. Some of the simplest call for little more than rice, chickpeas, tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, and a few seasonings. When prepared this way, arroz al horno is an excellent side dish to accompany meats and vegetables. Other recipes, though, bulk up the ingredient list to also include meats like blood sausage and various cuts of pork, as well as slices of fried potatoes and even dried fruits like currants. Made this way, it's a filling one-pot meal that is far easier to throw together than its impressive appearance would suggest.
In both the simple and fully-loaded versions, water, or, better yet, a meat broth is used to cook the rice (or, if you're cooking chickpeas from dried, the flavorful bean-cooking liquid). And in both cases, a whole head of garlic that Valencians cutely call the "partridge" is plopped on right in the center to roast as the rice bakes below it.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTraditionally, arroz al horno is cooked and served in shallow earthenware cazuelas, though I have found a roughly 3.5-quart sautè pan or something similar also works very well. This type of vessel is another thing that differentiates arroz al horno from paella. In the case of paella, the signature pan is both very thin (for rapid shifts in heat as needed) and very shallow, producing a relatively slim bed of rice full of crispy bits thanks to the soccarrat that forms on the bottom. Arroz al horno, on the other hand, is cooked in a dish that allows a slightly deeper bed of rice that is more tender throughout, since most of the cooking happens in the oven and not over direct heat, and no soccarrat is formed.
The recipe here is of the more lavish variety, but what matters more here than the specific ingredients is the basic method, which, once understood, can be adapted to whichever ingredients you prefer. Go for a fully vegetarian approach with just chickpeas, tomatoes, garlic, and water (or bean-cooking liquid), or a meaty style of your choice using various sausages, meatballs, and cuts of pork, chicken, rabbit, or—dare I say without incurring a purist's wrath—seafood.
Making arroz al horno, in the broadest sense, goes something like this:
- Sear any ingredients you want to brown first, like meats and potato slices, to develop color and flavor.
- Add rice and spices/seasonings and toast in the oil. Toasting the rice reduces the thickening power of surface staches, ensuring the finished baked rice has tender, separate grains, not gummy ones. Adding spices like smoked paprika and saffron at this point allows them to infuse their fat-soluble flavors into the oil before any water or stock is added.
- Add liquid—preferably a high-quality homemade stock, as its flavor comes through fully here, or the bean-cooking liquid (if you're not using canned beans)—and bring to a simmer.
- While you're waiting for the liquid to come to a simmer, layer on the toppings, such as pieces of tomato, the fried potato slices, blood (or other) sausages, chickpeas, etc. Don't forget to pop that head of garlic right in the center.
- Bake the rice until all the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender, then serve.
This is very much a recipe that, once you try it a couple times, can become a reliable weeknight staple open to improvisation, yet impressive enough to also be a great, low-effort option for entertaining a small group.
Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). In a 1-quart measuring cup, stir the 1 tablespoon salt into the stock until dissolved; set aside. Season ribs and pork belly all over with salt and pepper; set aside.
In a 3 1/2-quart sauté pan, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add potato slices and cook, turning once, until deeply golden brown on both sides, about 3 minutes per side. Using a thin, slotted spatula, transfer potatoes to a plate and season with salt.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezImmediately add pork ribs and belly to skillet and cook, stirring and turning occasionally, until browned all over, about 8 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezStir in rice, paprika, and saffron, and cook until rice is evenly coated in oil and very lightly toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in chicken stock, then nestle in thyme, rosemary, and bay leaf. Make sure to scrape down sides of pan so that all grains of rice are submerged in the liquid.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile you wait for the liquid to come to a simmer, add chickpeas in an even layer on top of the rice (they will mostly be submerged). Place the head of garlic in the center of the pan and arrange the morcilla (if using), fried potato slices, and tomato slices in a ring around it. Season tomato lightly with salt.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAs soon as liquid has come to a strong simmer, transfer to oven and bake until liquid is fully absorbed and rice is tender, about 30 minutes. Let rest uncovered for 5 minutes, then serve directly from the pan at the table.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezNotesCutting the ribs into segments requires cleaving through fairly thick bone, which is often something better left for the butcher to do. The smaller segments are more manageable and make serving the rice easier, but don't worry if you can't do this, it will still work with full-length ribs. If you don't have a butcher to cut the ribs, we recommend using baby back ribs here, as they're naturally smaller. Otherwise, baby back or spare ribs will work if cut into smaller lengths.
Spanish short-grain rice is typically sold in 500g or 1kg bags, hence why this recipe calls for the rice in grams.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikA nonstick cooking surface can be a pleasure to work with. They're so easy to use and clean, and even low-stress to shop for since there’s no real need to invest in an expensive nonstick skillet. We’ve tested loads of pans and the truth is that nonstick coatings—whether ceramic or polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)—will all eventually wear out, no matter how well you take care of your cookware.
If you’re in the market for a new skillet to flex your omelet-making skills, it’s easy to fall down a rabbit hole of endless debating between a ceramic or a traditional nonstick finish. In truth, either option is totally fine in terms of performance, however, ceramic is less durable than traditional nonstick. Let’s take a closer look at both materials.
Health and Eco-FriendlinessTraditional nonstick pans are metal pans coated in PTFE (Teflon is a common brand name). This coating was once made with a similar-sounding substance called perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), until studies showed reliable links between PFOA and both health concerns and negative environmental impact. Though PFOA has been out of the Teflon game since 2013 and PTFE is widely considered safe, the coating may release gasses when heated to high temperatures. Like many substances we’re exposed to, whether PTFE is still toxic to our health is debated, so making use of these nonstick skillets ultimately comes down to personal choice.
When it comes to ceramic unless you’re using cookware that is 1) actually made of ceramic and 2) is old enough for its glaze to potentially contain lead, you’re likely fine to assume you’re working with a non-toxic tool. The so-called ceramic coating on today’s ceramic skillets is a series of thin layers of silica, which comes from sand and is applied with a sol-gel process, which means the coating is naturally derived. If you’re concerned about PTFE off-gassing, a ceramic skillet may feel like a more comfortable choice.
To avoid the release of fumes and to help the nonstick surface remain slippery for as long as possible, it’s best that both traditional nonstick and ceramic skillets are not exposed to high heat or heated while empty. Get those eggs, fish filets, or pancake batter in the pan ASAP!
Performance and LongevityFor the most part, you don’t really need a nonstick skillet. Most of the time, you’re fine—or indeed better off—using the likes of stainless steel, carbon steel, or cast iron. A nonstick skillet is nice to have on hand for the aforementioned eggs and fish and things that are very delicate, but it really shouldn’t be your go-to for daily cooking.
While ceramic coating tends to be more brittle than Teflon and thus break down faster and be more susceptible to scratches, it’s worth repeating that all nonstick cookware, whether it's coated in Teflon or ceramic or some other fancily-named proprietary coating, will eventually wear out. The unavoidable combination of heat, contact with utensils (even wood or silicone ones), and washing (yes, even by hand) will slowly reduce the effectiveness of that once slippery-smooth coating—which is exactly why we don’t recommend dropping a bunch of cash on an expensive nonstick skillet. It probably won’t last more than a few years if you’re using it on a semi-regular basis.
PriceSerious Eats / Donna CurrieThough we like to keep our nonstick spending under $50, the sky's the limit when it comes to cookware. But we simply do not recommend spending over $100 on a pan you’ll for sure need to replace in a few years.
Ceramic skillets tend to start at a higher price than Teflon-esque nonstick pans; generally accompanied by marketing that touts its non-toxic or naturally derived properties. Again, if PTFEs are a concern for you, spending an extra $15 or $20 on a ceramic skillet may well be worth the tradeoff of a potentially shorter surface lifespan.
The Conclusion (or Not)Serious Eats / Donna CurieAs much as we love an opportunity to say that one type of tool is definitely better than another, the nonstick vs. ceramic skillet debate is simply not one of those times. It’s a matter of preference, and as long as you don’t invest too much money—or hang too high of hopes—on any one particular nonstick surface, you can fry eggs to your heart's content. (For a few years, anyway.)
FAQsWhat are the best nonstick skillets?Following our tests of 16 nonstick skillets, we named the T-fal Professional Total Nonstick Thermo-Spot Heat Indicator Fry Pan our favorite traditional nonstick, while the BulbHead Red Copper 10-Inch Pan was our favorite ceramic skillet.
Should I buy a ceramic nonstick skillet?If you have concerns about off-gassing or generally feel more comfortable with a coating derived from natural materials, then yes, a ceramic nonstick skillet is the right choice. In terms of performance, though, ceramic coatings tend to wear out more quickly than conventional nonstick surfaces.
Why is my nonstick skillet sticking?If your nonstick skillet is no longer nonstick, it’s time to say goodbye and purchase a replacement. Unfortunately, once the nonstick coating starts to break down, there’s no restoring the finish. If the coating is otherwise intact, you can buy yourself a few extra uses by cooking with oil or butter, but never continue to use a nonstick pan with visible flaking or chipping.
Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinIn many households (including mine) the day begins with the sound of a blender running. Someone is making their colorful breakfast smoothie before rushing out the door to work, or chugging their drink quickly before departing.
Thankfully, when it comes to blending up a smoothie for one, the days of painstakingly attaching blades, rubber gaskets, and various bits and bobs to a full-sized blender are over. Instead of breaking out the big blender, now you can use a smaller, simpler personal blender.
In order to find the best personal blender options (we excluded portable blenders from the lineup) we dove into testing some of the internet’s favorite and most highly-rated machines. We conducted tests to examine each blender’s power, usability, and durability and how easy they were to clean. Of the 9 we tested, two quickly distanced themselves from the pack.
The Winners, at a GlanceThis personal blender was not only aesthetically pleasing, it was also easy to use, blended silky smooth smoothies, and was effortless to clean.
This blender’s power, speed, and whopping 32-ounce capacity impressed us immediately. This is a great option for those in a rush since it blends smoothies in a mere 20 seconds.
The TestsSerious Eats / Abigail Clarkin Blend Kale and Mango Smoothies Test: We blended a combination of raw kale, frozen mango, orange juice, and fresh banana in each blender to see how they handled fibrous and frozen ingredients. * Ease of Use and Cleaning Tests: While testing, we considered how easy the blender was to set up and use, how it performed during blending, what the final smoothie’s consistency was, and if the blender was complicated to clean. * Blend Ice and Water Test: To test the durability of some of the machines (except those that explicitly warned against crushing ice), we combined water and ice cubes and attempted to use each blender to create a slush mixture. * Blend Milkshakes Test (Winners-Only):* We tested our top picks by blending a hardy mixture of ice cream, ice, and milk. During testing, we paid close attention to ease of use, the consistency of the milkshake, and whether cleaning was a challenge.
What is a Personal Blender?Personal blenders are often designed for one to two servings and include streamlined settings and instructions. Their control panels are often made up of one to three buttons or knobs, rather than a fleet of options. The blender usually consists of a blending cup, an extractor blade that attaches directly to the cup, and a motor base. Since there is no lid, ingredients are all added ahead of time—once the blender is running, there isn't opportunity to add anything else mid-blend. A handful of personal blenders have automated, timed settings for smoothies, while others rely on the user’s discretion.
What We LearnedAutomated Blending Settings Did Not Necessarily Make Blending EasierSome automated settings performed well, but we also liked having the option of manual settings, too.Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinThere’s something to be said for convenience, especially when preparing food. When we started testing, we were curious to see if the personal blenders with automated blending settings stood out against the manual-controlled ones. Would we be able to turn on the machine and let it run without paying too much attention? Would the finished product (smoothie, milkshake, etc) be flawlessly blended? The answer was a little more complicated.
Out of the full lineup, three of the personal blenders had automatic settings: the Ninja BN401 Nutri Pro Compact Personal Blender, ZWILLING Enfinigy Personal Blender, and Nutribullet RX.
Typically, each automated blending setting ran for a set amount of time, and during the cycle, the machine would stop and start at certain junctures (we think this was in order to allow for ingredients to settle back down near the blade). Of the three with this feature, only the Zwilling stood out. The Zwilling’s automated blending setting lasted for 40 seconds and resulted in a creamy, well-mixed final product. We also liked that it had an easy-to-use interface with simple options (on/off, pulse, and smoothie), if we didn’t want to go the automatic route.
On the other hand, the Ninja’s automated setting lasted longer, clocking in at 50 seconds. The setting had allotted stop and start times, during which the ingredients were able to settle and shift so they could catch on the blade during the next rotation. However, it was very, very loud (like our parents at punk concerts, we spent the entire cycle reflecting on the merits of earplugs.) And, when the cycle ended, there was still a chunk of unblended kale in the mix. The Nutribullet RX was also very loud and had the lengthiest setting of the bunch (including when using the manual settings). Though after one minute of blending, the final smoothie was creamy and smooth. However, we did not think the result was impressive enough to warrant sacrificing both our hearing and our time.
Blending Cup Size Mattered When it came to filling the blender jars, wider openings and larger jars made it easier.Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreDuring testing, we poured out a fair amount of smoothies, slush, and milkshakes. It quickly became apparent that Goldilocks would have had an opinion: some blending cups were too small, some were too big, and some were just right. While we were pleased overall with the performance of the NutriBullet NB9-1301 K Pro, we did find the larger diameter of the opening led to light spillage. When tilting the cup to pour, all of the liquids—and any icy bits—rushed forward at the same time. On the other hand, the size of the cup (which had a 32-ounce capacity) was great for adding ingredients since larger items, such as leafy kale or misshapen frozen fruits, didn’t need to be squished down or added individually in order to fit. These similarities were shared between the Nutribullet RX (which measured the largest with a 4.5-inch diameter opening) Nutribullet Personal Blender, Nutribullet NB9-1301 K Pro, and the BELLA Rocket Extract PRO Power Blender.
Smaller blending cups, particularly the Ninja Fit which had a 3-inch wide opening, were slim enough that pouring was mess-free. However, the Ninja Fit’s narrow mouth made adding ingredients challenging. We had to push the kale leaves down into the cup rather than simply dropping them in. We found the ideal cups measured somewhere in-between: the Zwilling Enfinigy Personal Blender cup measured three-and-a-half inches and was neither too wide nor too narrow, but just right.
Only Some Personal Blenders Were Able to Crush IceSerious Eats / Abigail ClarkinThis may come as no surprise, but personal blenders did not pack the same punch as traditional blenders. For example, four of the personal blenders had instructions that warned against ice crushing, so we could only test five blenders against the ice and water slushie test. For all five of the machines we tested, we found almost all of them struggled with crushing the ice evenly.
The Cuisinart CPB-300 350 Watt BPA-Free Blender, Ninja Fit, and the ZWILLING Enfinigy Personal Blender all required multiple stops and starts during blending. This was because the blades stopped catching the ice and water, so we had to shift the ingredients for them to catch the ice again. The final results consisted of slush with a few larger chips of ice.
The real standout was the Ninja BN401 Nutri Pro Compact Personal Blender, which turned the ice and water into a lovely slush. And this machine had a particular advantage in this test: it had a specific “crush” setting which included an automatic timed program. However, the blender was extremely loud while working, especially when the blades were not catching any ice; this was usually because the slush shot up the sides of the cup and all that was left was a thin layer of water on the bottom.
The Less Counter Space Used, the BetterCounter space can be precious. As we tested each blender, we found ourselves moving them from table to counter, to the table again. Not only were the largest machines, such as the Ninja BN401 Nutri Pro Compact Personal Blender and the Nutribullet RX, quite heavy (the bases were four pounds, seven ounces, and six pounds, five ounces, respectively), but they also took up a lot of space. We found the significant weight and size were a hindrance to our limited counter space, and these aspects also made storing and moving inconvenient.
Cleaning Was Easy—As Long As We Did So ImmediatelyOne of our least favorite parts about using a traditional blender is cleaning (we couldn’t count the number of times we almost lost a rubber gasket down the InSinkErator). But we discovered many of the personal blenders were not as high maintenance. For one, each blender only had three parts: the motor base, the blending cup, and the extractor blade (which also served as the lid). That meant only two parts—and maybe a travel lid, if used—needed to be cleaned.
Even more conveniently, personal blenders were easy to fit into the dishwasher when disassembled. Every personal blender we tested included top rack dishwasher-safe blending cups and lids. On the other hand, whether or not extractor blades were dishwasher-safe depended on the blender itself (though, in general, we don’t recommend washing blades in a dishwasher since it can dull them faster).
When hand-washing with soap and water, we found the plastic blending cups were easy to grip and less likely to shatter if dropped (unlike some of the glass blending vessels we’ve encountered when using traditional blenders through the years). Washing was painless as long as we made sure to rinse the blending vessels and extractor blades immediately after blending. Otherwise, tough crud stuck in the grooves. Blenders like the Cuisinart and the Nutribullet RX had instructions for cleaning tough messes: simply add soapy, room-temperature water to the cup and blend, rinse, and then dry.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Personal BlenderSerious Eats / Abigail Clarkin / Grace KellyA good personal blender should be easy to use, clean, and store. Ideally, it has a capacity ranging between 20 to 32 ounces, is powerful (and fast), and has a blending cup that pours smoothly.
What we liked:The Zwilling impressed us immediately. It was easy to use since the control knob had three settings: on/off, pulse, and smoothie. We enjoyed that the settings included both a manual pulse option, as well as an automatically timed smoothie setting. This meant the user could choose their own adventure, rather than being stuck with only an automatic setting. Cleaning the Zwilling was especially easy too: typically, other machines had cross blades that were inset, meaning the extractor blade was set inside the lid, with grooved sides rising up on all sides. This made cleaning other personal blenders a little annoying as dried liquids and foods could get stuck in these nooks. The Zwilling’s cross blade, on the other hand, was set on the topmost part of the lid and any nooks and crannies were set along the outside for easy access when cleaning. The machine was also sleek, simple, and aesthetically pleasing. While it had a medium-sized motor base—measuring 5.75 inches wide—the square-shaped personal blender did not take up too much space on the counter. We were very pleased with how the Zwilling handled blending smoothies and milkshakes. The smoothie was even, creamy, and completely blended within the 40-second automated “smoothie” setting.
What we didn’t like: At first, we assumed that the grooved plastic on the exterior of the blending cup would make it easy to grip. However, this particular blending cup was actually more challenging to open: the grooves on the base were too small for our fingers to actually fit within comfortably while twisting, so we were left at a loss as to where to grip. The machine also did struggle a bit with the milkshake, leading to some chunks of ice in the finished product.
Price at time of publish: $85.
Key Specs Weight: 5 lbs * Dimensions: 5.25 x 5.75 x 14.5 inches * Cord length: 36 inches * Capacity: 20 ounces * Materials: BPA-free plastic, stainless steel * Wattage: 500 watts * Voltage: 120 volts * Accessories: One to-go jar and one to-go lid * Care instructions*: The blender cup and drinking cup lid can be cleaned either in the dishwasher or by hand with dish soap; the blender lid can be run under running water and cleaned with a damp, lint-free cloth; the base can be cleaned with a damp, lint-free cloth.
Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinWhat we liked: For those looking for efficiency and ease of use, and who might want to make multiple servings, the Nutribullet NB9-1301 K Pro is a good pick. It completely shredded the kale and mango smoothie in a stunning 20 seconds, and we liked the spacious blending cup, which was a whopping 32 ounces, the largest we tested. It was easy to load, so we didn't need to squish or push down ingredients aggressively in order to make sure they fit inside the cup. The blender’s extractor blade lid was easy to grip when twisting and untwisting.
What we didn’t like: Alas, this Nutribullet was one of the machines with an explicit warning against ice crushing. Aside from that, our main complaint was the blending cup was very wide. While the width of it made loading very easy, we had to be careful when pouring so we didn't lean the cup too far forward, which led to the liquid crowding the mouth of the cup and spillage.
Price at time of publish: $110.
Key Specs Weight: 9.68 lbs * Dimensions: 7.72 x 12.01 x 15.94 inches * Cord length: 30 inches * Capacity: 32 ounces * Materials: Plastic, stainless steel * Wattage: 900 watts * Voltage: 110 volts * Accessories: Two blending cups, one extractor blade, one cup ring without handle, two cup rings with handle, two lids * Care instructions*: It was recommended that the rubber gasket not be removed while cleaning; all parts (aside from the motor base and extractor blade) are top-rack dishwasher-safe; the blending cups, lids, and extractor blade can be hand washed with warm soapy water; the motor base can be wiped down with a damp, soapy sponge or dishcloth
Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinThe Competition* BELLA 15 Piece Rocket Extract PRO Power Blender Set: While we really liked this affordable blender (it blended kale and mango smoothies impressively, mixing all the ingredients together almost immediately during blending rather than simply waiting on the layered ingredients to shift downward and hit the blade), it's currently out-of-stock on multiple retailers. * Ninja BN401 Nutri Pro Compact Personal Blender: While we appreciated the multiple buttons and functions, such as “crush,” “smoothie,” and “pulse,” the Ninja was simply too large, too loud, too heavy-duty, and too slow (the automatic smoothie setting took 50 seconds). * Ninja Fit: This machine was super easy to use, store, and clean. But we didn't enjoy how much pressure we had to exert by pushing the blending cup down the entire time the machine was running (we prefer to build our muscles in the gym instead, thank you). * Cuisinart CPB-300 350 Watt BPA-Free Blender: The slender, tall motor base was great for those with limited counter space. However, the extractor blade was challenging to remove after use, and there were still chunks of kale and ice following the smoothie and slushie tests. * Nutribullet Personal Blender: While we liked many things about this blender, it simply did not have the power or speed to compete with similar models. * Nutribullet RX: The sheer size of the machine was intimidating: it measured 15.16 inches in depth and 15.16 inches in width (which is larger than some traditional blenders). It was unnecessarily large for anyone looking for a simple pony of a blender as opposed to a workhorse. * Magic Bullet Blender: This blender was so cute! But cuteness didn’t matter when we realized it was quite noisy. It also took a whopping one minute and 15 seconds of blending–manually–when we blended mango and kale smoothies. * The BEAST Blender:Unfortunately, our test model for the BEAST broke before testing, so we were unable to see how the machine performed against other personal blenders. We are going to pursue long-term testing with a new model and will add our findings to this review at a later date. You can read our previous one-off review of this blender here.
FAQsWhat can you make in a personal blender?Personal blenders were great for making small, single-serving portions of smoothies and milkshakes. Out of the machines we tested, none were built to blend dry ingredients. In fact, many of the instruction manuals spelled out specific liquid-to-solid ingredient ratios. Most machines were not powerful enough to handle ice-heavy ingredients, either.
How many servings does a personal blender make?Each of the personal blenders we tested had the capacity to hold one to two servings. The overall capacity of each blending cup ranged from 16 to 32 ounces, but each machine had a different max line for ingredients.
What is the best way to clean a personal blender?While perusing various instruction manuals during testing, we found the most popular recommendation was to hand-wash blending cups, lids, and extractor blends in warm soapy water. Many of these parts were also dishwasher-safe. As for the motor bases, submersion in water was to be avoided (as with anything with a plug!). Instead, wipe down the motor exterior with either a damp cloth before drying. For tough messes, some blenders could be cleaned by adding soapy water to the blending cup and then blending. However, we do recommend checking each individual machine’s instruction manual for the best instructions.
What is the best (and quietest) personal blender?It’s hard to describe any of the personal blenders we tested as quiet. Much of what we blended was fibrous or frozen, so there was a fair amount of grinding noises. But we do think the Zwilling Enfinigy Personal Blender was the best overall personal blender, and much quieter than many of its competitors.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreIf you’re considering taking the leap into sous vide cooking, you’re going to need more than just a great immersion circulator. Because the sous vide method relies on a water bath kept at a precise, consistent temperature, you’ll want a container that’s heat-proof, durable, non-reactive, and—here’s where most home cooks go wrong—tall enough to accommodate your immersion circulator.
The water capacity varies slightly across brands, but for the most part, you’ll need a minimum water depth of 2.5 inches (that’s just to accommodate the immersion circulator; you’ll want higher water levels to completely submerge the food you’re cooking). One of our favorite immersion circulators, the Anova Precision Cooker, maxes out at five gallons of water, although that’s an excessive amount for home cooks—not to mention would require an unnecessarily long heat-up time.
The good news: although immersion circulators are pricey, most containers for sous vide are refreshingly affordable and accessible (and you may already have some). And you don’t even need a lid for your sous vide container. If you’re planning on cooking for a long time, you may be worried about water evaporation. To mitigate this, in lieu of a lid you can cover the surface of the container with ping pong or sous vide balls (steam will condense on the balls and drip back down into the water bath). Sous vide-specific balls are smaller and generally come with a handy storage pouch.
Cambro ContainersMost of us at Serious Eats are big fans of Cambro containers—and not just for sous vide cooking. These durable, lightweight, inexpensive, thick-walled plastic food storage containers are prized among professional cooks, thanks to the volume gradations and an impressive number of sizes. A note here: Cambro also makes containers from polypropylene, which are cheaper and thinner, but not able to withstand higher temperatures. A polycarbonate container is the one you want for this purpose.
Although small-medium size (4.75 quarts) Cambros are technically big enough for most home cooks’ needs, a 6- or 8-quart is only slightly more expensive and has the benefit of taller walls. Those taller walls are crucial if your sous vide machine doesn’t have an adjustable clip or attachment mechanism, like this one from Instant.
You don’t need to cover your container with a lid when cooking sous vide. But if you plan on using your Cambro for food storage, you may want one. Not all retailers sell Cambro containers with their lids, so if that matters to you, double-check your online cart before purchasing. Price varies slightly with or without lids, and across retailers.
Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreStock PotsA large stock pot will work with your immersion circulator, with a caveat: taller pots fare better with most models, which need to stand upright to work correctly. A pot or container with short sides may cause the immersion circulator to rest against the edge at a tilt, which can negatively impact temperature regulation.
The most common size of stock pot for home cooks is 12 quarts, which works just fine for sous vide cooking. Bear in mind that the larger your container (and the more water it contains), the longer it will take to initially heat the water to your desired temperature.
We recommend stainless-steel stock pots over aluminum, for steel’s non-reactivity—it will serve you well as a more traditional cooking vessel, too. The versatility of a stock pot (and our next pick, a Dutch oven) is what makes it so convenient for most cooks: you likely already have one, and thus won’t need to make room for yet another piece of cooking equipment.
Dutch OvensYou can use an enameled cast iron Dutch oven for sous vide cooking, too. The most common size is 5.5 quarts, which is sufficient for most home cooking projects. Bare cast iron Dutch ovens aren’t as common, but they’re not a great choice for sous vide cooking: it’s the enamel coating that protects the cast iron from water exposure and rust. Our favorite Dutch ovens come from Le Creuset and Staub.
Most Dutch ovens are shorter-walled than stock pots. If your immersion circulator’s side clip can be adjusted to accommodate those comparatively lower sides without tilting, you’re ready to rock. Some circulators—like our top pick from Joule—have magnetic bottoms that allow them to stand upright in any magnetic container, although we still recommend clipping to the side for extra insurance during longer cooking tasks.
A potential downside of using a Dutch oven: they’re heavy, and may be harder to lift for some cooks.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikSpecialty Sous Vide ContainersIf coordinated cooking equipment weighs more heavily in your decision-making, you’ll probably like specialty sous vide containers. These unique containers are often thoughtfully designed to eliminate little annoyances that come with sous vide cooking.
For example, this model from EVERIE has a rack to keep bags upright during cooking (we typically recommend binder clips for this task) and a lid to reduce evaporation during long cook times. However, this container's big, at 12 quarts. And if you're short on storage space, you might not be into such a large unitasker.
FAQsWhat’s the best container for sous vide? Annoying, but there’s no hard-and-fast answer for this. You can use a variety of different containers for cooking with an immersion circulator, all to the same effect. Durable, heat-proof plastic containers are inexpensive and lightweight. Metal stock pots are versatile and almost always large enough to accommodate whatever you’re cooking. Enameled cast iron Dutch ovens are versatile too and have excellent heat retention. Specialty containers, often made by immersion circulator brands, have lots of bells and whistles, which could come in handy if you rely on this method of cooking regularly. If you plan on cooking on the stovetop while using your immersion circulator, you will benefit from having a dedicated sous vide container. But if you plan on using the appliance sporadically, your trusty stock pot or Dutch oven will do the trick.
What’s the best sous vide container with a lid? Although you don’t need a lid to cook with sous vide, they’re handy for longer cooking sessions because they maintain the water level. This container, from EVERIE, has a lid. For a container without a lid, you can use ping pong or sous vide balls to maintain the water level.
Can I sous vide in a plastic container? You can use some plastic containers for sous vide. Do NOT use basic food storage containers for sous vide, even if they are very large. The plastic will warp or melt at higher temperatures. The keyword is “polycarbonate,” which signifies a durable, heat-resistant plastic that will last for years.
Can you use any container for sous vide? Although you don’t need to buy a sous-vide-specific container, you can’t just grab any vessel in your kitchen. A sous vide container should be at least four quarts in volume, have tall enough sides to accommodate the immersion circulator, and—of course—be able to withstand sustained, high temperatures. Just as important are the tools you use with your container: you’ll need a plastic bag with a strong seal (Ziplock-style freezer bags are fine), a binder clip to attach it to the side, and a trivet or pot holder to act as a barrier between your counter and the vessel. We also recommend ping-pong or sous vide balls to help maintain water levels.
Serious Eats / Molly SheridanThere is perhaps no recipe I've investigated that is as simple and yet as fraught with passionate argument regarding the "correct" way to make it as cornbread. First, you have the ostensibly North/South difference of opinion on the use of sweeteners, and then further debate among the Southerners themselves ratcheting up tensions even further. Discussions regarding the ratio of flour to cornmeal, the number of eggs, and what kind of fat needs to be in the pan can then further exacerbate hostilities. And if you're not already using a cast iron skillet to bake yours, you best duck when those who are come near.
I mention all this at the outset because adding to this battle is not my purpose in making cornbread this week. I want to leave all the controversy aside (and the box of Jiffy mix as well) in order to highlight the great taste provided by freshly milled cornmeal.
With all the chatter out there concerning wheat, gluten, and human nutrition, there's been a lot of discussion in food circles regarding sprouting and soaking grains and milling flours at home, but I haven't taken that very far. And grinding my own cornmeal was something I hadn't even begun to consider when I first stumbled upon discussions of how great the freshly milled variety made your cornbread. As cornmeal has a habit of sitting around in my pantry, the chance to DIY this product certainly intrigued me.
Picking the Right Corn TypeWhile I've seen a few references to drying and milling sweet corn, most cornmeal is made from the starchier field (aka dent) corn. Not having the space to grow and dry my own corn (not to mention that it's March), the option that really lit my eyes up, however, was one I already had in my pantry: popcorn.
Selecting Your EquipmentIf you haven't already invested in a grain mill (there are many types, from hand crank to KitchenAid attachment to sophisticated powered appliances), Vitamix benders are also powerful enough to grind dried corn into a beautiful yellow cornmeal, if that's an option for you. Even still, working in small batches is necessary so as not to overheat the meal during grinding. There are also people out there who use their coffee or spice grinders for small batches.
Serious Eats / Molly SheridanAs a precaution, you may wish to sift the meal after it is initially ground to check for missed larger pieces, but I didn't find this strictly necessary.
While I haven't had the chance to try a proper grain mill yet, another tip I read frequently during my research is that if you're having trouble grinding the corn—especially using a hand-cranked mill—try running the corn through on a very coarse setting and then grinding it a second time to get a finer grain. Less wear on your machine and yourself!
Whole Kernel Popcorn vs. Refined/Degerminated"Why not just buy cornmeal?" you may be asking yourself. Much of the conversation online surrounding growing and grinding your own corn concerns GMO and pesticide concerns. Beyond that, however, is the fact that many types of cornmeal available on grocery store shelves have been refined/degerminated. By removing the germ from the whole grain, the product will have a longer shelf life. However, that oil-rich and vitamin-packed germ is also where a lot of the nutrition lives. Grinding your own meal means you can preserve the whole grain aspect with less worry about rancidity. Simply grind meal as you need it, or store small batches in your freezer for maximum preservation.
Serious Eats / Molly SheridanMilling at Home for a Richer Corn FlavorA 32-ounce bag of popcorn netted me 5 1/2 cups cornmeal, though grinding the amount needed just before use is recommended for maximum freshness. The special equipment is the real barrier to entry here—and some of it is frankly quite expensive. The richer corn flavor and overall freshness definitely provide a big push towards investing in an appliance that can get the job done. Beyond that, however, unless you're buying in bulk, it seems that the popcorn vs. cornmeal price points are negligible. I remain on the fence about adding grain milling to my regular kitchen tasks, but in this case the benefits and ease outweigh any downsides.
Commercial cornmeal comes in different grind sizes: fine, coarse, and stoneground, the last of which is the most irregular with a combination of fine and coarse pieces. When using a high-powered blender at home to make cornmeal, controlling grind size is one of the most difficult parts of the process. Generally—and assuming you're using a good blender—you will have the most luck grinding finely. Getting a consistent coarse grind will be much more difficult, and while you might be able to approximate "stoneground" meal, there's a decent change you'll have some too-large chunks in the meal as a result of trying to not take the grind too far overall.
All of this comes with one big caveat: using a blender to mill a grain does not provide the same level of grind-size control as a proper grain mill. In some recipes, this may not present much of an issue at all, especially if you have a good sense of what commercial "fine" cornmeal look like and can match your grind to them by eye. But in other situations, it's possible this lack of control could throw a recipe off. I had no trouble successfully baking my cornbread recipe using my home-ground cornmeal, but please don't be shocked if you find that you have to try it a few times to get your own grind dialed in to your specific uses.
In a high-powered blender, and starting at low speed and gradually increasing speed to high, blend popcorn kernels until meal is consistently ground to either a "fine" degree, depending on your needs (assessing "fine" is something you'll need to do visually, based on existing commercial products as a benchmark).
Serious Eats / Molly SheridanNotesThis recipe can easily be scaled up or down depending on the amount of cornmeal you need and the capacity of your blender bowl.
Make-Ahead and StorageCornmeal can be stored in an airtight plastic container on the shelf for several months.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikGrowing up in the Philippines, I was often woken from my siesta by the rhythmic chanting of street vendors, whose voices echoed through the empty sweltering streets in the late afternoon. This is how I knew it was time for merienda, otherwise known as a meal in between meals or, you know, snack time. I used to rush to our balcony, craning my neck as if I were a giraffe, to find the street peddler. If they were close to our house, I would chant back to them. Soon after, I was rewarded with the privilege of choosing first from their warm steaming basket. Tucked inside was suman (a steamed sticky rice cake), mwasi (a boiled rice patty topped with shredded coconut and muscovado sugar), baye-baye (a mochi-like cylindrical cake made with toasted young or glutinous rice, grated coconuts, and muscovado sugar), and sometimes a version of a donut twist called bicho-bicho. It just depended on the day and the peddler’s whims.
Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik
The suman I often got from the peddler—which is the recipe I'm sharing here—is made from glutinous rice cooked in coconut milk, then wrapped in banana leaves and steamed. It's then served hot with a generous sprinkle of muscovado sugar on top and/or with a side of sweet ripe mango. The banana leaf gives the suman a distinct tinge of green and imparts a floral scent to the rice cake.
In pre-colonial Philippines, growing rice was labor-intensive and rice was therefore largely reserved for deities, leaders, and socio-religious rituals and gatherings like harvest ceremonies or honoring ancestors. After the industrialization of agriculture, the Philippines produced more rice and the crop eventually became everyday fare to be enjoyed by all, spinning off countless rice-based dishes and snacks, including a vast array of baked, steamed, and boiled rice-based snacks called kakanin, derived from two Tagalog words: “kain” (to eat) and “kanin” (rice).
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikKakanin, meanwhile, can be further broken down into subcategories, one of which is suman, which is a type of rice cake that is usually wrapped in something. There are many versions of suman, which vary among regions and even from island to island and are distinguished by the kind of wrapper used or the methods employed to cook them. You can change some of the ingredients, the wrapper, and the shape and still make something understood to be suman. There’s suman latik―sticky rice cake served with coconut caramel and curds―and suman sa lihiya, which is made with lye. On Panay Island where I was raised, we have at least three different kinds of suman: ibus (eeh-boos), which is the same sticky rice cake but wrapped in buri (palm leaves) and boiled; biko (bee-koh) made with whole rice kernels (not ground rice or rice flour) and cooked with coconut milk and brown sugar, then slathered with latik, a coconut caramel sauce, and baked (unlike most suman, biko is not wrapped in leaves, but it's still understood by most to be a type of suman); and alupi (ah-loo-pee), which is a grated cassava suman. There’s also a suman called moron (or chocolate suman) that’s a mix of sticky rice and tablea (native chocolate).
When I was developing this recipe, it was important to me to perfect the sticky rice itself, which is the primary component. You can always jazz up the rice by adding other flavorings like ginger, chocolate, and grated coconut, but the success of this suman sinks or swims with the rice.
Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik
The key to making a good suman is soaking the rice ahead of time to help fully hydrate the grains and cut down on your cooking time. I’ve definitely burned the bottom of a pot while making suman and that’s something we want to avoid: As you cook the rice, it releases starch that will stick to the bottom and sometimes sides of the pot if not stirred constantly. When the rice burns, there’s no saving it, so make sure to mind and stir the rice at all times.
After the initial cooking of the rice, it's spread out to cool, then cut into portions and wrapped in the banana leaves, which then get cooked again—an essential two-stage cooking process that gives the finished suman its signature sticky texture. There are multiple ways to cook the assembled suman packets, but the primary one is to steam them. When setting up your steamer, make sure you always have enough water at the bottom and check in between batches and refill as needed. I recommend letting the water come to a boil first before you add the suman to steam, so you’ll have a more accurate cooking time than if you load the whole thing up and then wait for the steam to start. If you’re adding additional water to prevent the steamer from going dry, make sure to get it up to boiling first so that you don't drop the temperature and cut the steam off midway through cooking.
Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik
Once the suman is steamed, give it a couple of minutes to cool down before opening the banana leaf wrapper, but not long enough that it's gone cold. It needs to have enough residual heat to slowly melt the topping of muscovado sugar, and also to provide a contrast with the cool mango. I almost always pair my suman with a cup of coffee to balance the sweet with a little bitter. You can even add a scoop of ice cream and make it suman à la mode. Beyond that, feel free to treat this sticky rice cake as your blank canvas and let your imagination go wild.
In a small bowl, combine rice and 1 quart (945ml) water. Using your hands, massage rice to make sure water gets in between each grain, then cover bowl with plastic wrap, and let soak at room temperature for 8 hours.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikUsing a fine-mesh strainer, drain rice, discarding the soaking water. In a 4-quart pot, combine rice with coconut milk, sugar, and salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly to prevent it from sticking and scorching on the bottom, until rice is al dente, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eat / Vicky WasikSpray a rimmed baking sheet with cooking spray, then transfer rice mixture to prepared baking sheet, spread it in an even layer, and let cool completely. Once cool, slice into sixteen 1- by 4-inch rectangular rice cakes. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWash banana leaf squares with cold water then pat dry with paper towels. Working with one square at a time, hold banana leaf with tongs about 2 inches above the medium-high flame of a gas burner, turning every 3 to 5 seconds, until soft and pliable, about 15 seconds. Transfer to a plate and repeat with remaining banana leaves. Alternatively spread the banana leaf squares on a baking sheet and bake for 2 minutes at 500°F (260°); this stp is to help make the banana leaves more liable so they don't crack when folded.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikOn a clean work surface, position one banana leaf square so it resembles a diamond with a point facing you. Set 2 rice cakes, one on top of another, horizontally in the center of the leaf. Starting with the point closest to you, fold the leaf up and over the rice cakes, tucking it in slightly underneath the top side of the rice cakes so that the rice cakes are tightly wrapped.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikFold the right and left points of the leaf over the rice cakes like an envelope (they will overlap), then roll the rice cakes up towards the top point, stopping about 2 inches short of the top point. Fold the top point in towards the center, then finish rolling to form a perfectly rectangular packet. Use butcher's twine to tie suman at each end. Repeat with remaining banana leaf squares and rice cakes.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikSerious Eats / Vicky WasikFill a large pot with about 4 inches water and place the steamer insert inside (make sure water doesn't come above steamer floor). Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Carefully arrange suman in steamer in a single even layer, cover, and steam for 1 hour, adjusting heat to maintain a good steam level and adding boiling water as needed to prevent steamer from going dry. Transfer suman to a wire rack and let cool slightly, 10 to 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikTo serve, remove twine, transfer still-warm suman to individual plates, and serve with muscovado sugar and mango (if using).
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikSpecial Equipment4-quart pot, rimmed baking sheet, steamer, butcher's twine
NotesIf you can’t find Filipino long-grain (malagkit) sticky rice, you can use short-grain sticky rice (a.k.a. glutinous or sweet rice). There are several varieties of sweet glutinous rice that can be used as a substitute.
Fresh or frozen banana leaves can be purchased at Asian markets and online. To store unused fresh banana leaves, wrap tightly in plastic, transfer to a zipper-lock bag, and freeze for up to 3 months. If using frozen banana leaves, defrost in the refrigerator overnight before using.
If your steamer is not large enough to fit all the suman, you can either steam in batches, set up two side-by-side steamers to cook the suman at once, or use a stacking bamboo steamer.
Make-Ahead and StorageSteamed suman can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 3 months. To reheat in the microwave, cover with a damp paper towel and microwave for 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWith the now popularity of oversized Stanley cups, let’s harken back to ye olde days when Hydro Flask and Yeti water bottles reigned supreme.
Now, as someone who’s owned and entirely hated their Stanley tumbler for about a year now (it has a tapered base, falls over easily, and leaks horribly around its straw) and has a literal cabinet full of Hydro Flasks and Yetis (many of which were gifted), I feel qualified to talk about water bottles. Today, we’re going to cover Hydro Flask vs. Yeti stainless steel water bottles (it’s a battle of the bottles, so to speak), for those considering investing in either. The below findings are based on our water bottle review, but I’m throwing in some personal insights, too.
The Price and Warranty When we reviewed water bottles, we evaluated the 24-ounce Hydro Flask Wide Mouth with Straw and Yeti Rambler 26-Ounce Water Bottle. Both of these are $40, so, price-wise, it’s a draw. However, Hydro Flask offers a lifetime warranty, while Yeti has a 5-year warranty on their Ramblers. For that reason, the winner of this category is Hydro Flask.
Color SelectionSerious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmBoth Hydro Flask and Yeti come out with new colors routinely, but, as of writing, Hydro Flask offerstwo colors for the 24-ounce bottle we tested and seven of the same bottle with a different lid. Yeti has 10 colors of their 26-ounce bottle (although one of these is just stainless steel). Personally, I find Hydro Flask’s smaller color selection to be very vibrant, but numbers-wise the color selection winner is Yeti.
Cold Retention To test the cold retention of the water bottles, we filled them with 100 grams of ice and 300 grams of chilled water. We checked the temperature of the water every hour for 24-plus hours, using an instant-read thermometer. Yeti kept water a touch cooler throughout this test (as in, a few degrees), but it was really irrelevant because both brands still had very chilled water after 24 hours. And, most likely, you’re not keeping icey water in a bottle that long anyways. So, cold retention is a draw between the two.
Usability FactorsThere are a handful of important usability factors to consider with a water bottle:
- How easy is it to fill?
- How easy is it to drink from?
- Does it fit in a car cup holder?
- How easy is it to clean?
Both the Hydro Flask and Yeti have wide mouths that are easy to fill, however the Hydro Flask features a straw lid while the Yeti has a two-component “chug” cap (a twist-off lid that covers the opening). In our water bottle review, the tester noted of the Yeti, “on more than one occasion, I accidentally took off both pieces and splashed myself with water.” This has happened to me a few times at home, too, and generally I prefer a straw lid as it encourages me to drink more water. However, my husband likes the wider opening of the Yeti so he can gulp a bunch of water at once. So, to each their own there!
However, Yeti bottles, unfortunately, do not easily fit in a car cup holder for the likely scenario of taking your water bottle on-the-go. The 26-ounce Yeti has a 3.25-inch base diameter, while the Hydro Flask has a 2.75-inch base diameter and easily fits in a cup holder.
As far as cleanup, armed with a bottle brush and dish soap, the interiors of either bottle are easy to hand-wash. The Hydro Flask’s straw cap is a little more finicky to clean, while the ridges of the Yeti’s chug opening tend to get gunky and require more detailed scrubbing. Both are dishwasher-safe, though.
All-in-all, overall usability goes to Hydro Flask.
Durability and LeakageSerious Eats / Grace KellyNow, if you use a stainless steel water bottle regularly, you’re bound to drop it at some point. And we didn’t think dents or dings impacted performance. Particularly, I find water bottles tend to dent at their necks and bases. To one of these points, Hydro Flask sells a silicone boot cap that acts as a drop buffer.
As far as leakage went, as long as the cap was tightly secured (and the straw down in the Hydro Flask), we didn’t experience leakage with either bottle.
For durability and leakage, it’s really a draw between the two.
So, Should You Buy a Hydro Flask or Yeti Water Bottle? Our tests favored Hydro Flask (it’s one of our winners, in fact). It has excellent cold retention and a convenient straw lid and it can fit in your car’s cup holder easily.
However, Yeti water bottles are also good—if you prefer that chug-style cap. And you’d be equally happy with its cold retention and durability.
FAQsWhat’s the best water bottle? We tested seven water bottles and named models from Owala, Contigo, and Hydro Flask our top picks. You can read more about how we tested and chose our winners in our review.
Are Hydro Flask or Yeti water bottles better? Our testing showed Hydro Flask water bottles edged out Yeti’s when it came to ease of use in particular. However, both brands’ water bottles have excellent cold retention and durability.
How do you clean a Hydro Flask or Yeti water bottle? Both Hydro Flask and Yeti water bottles are dishwasher-safe (some parts are top-rack recommended, though, so check the manufacturers’ care instructions). Otherwise, we suggest hot, soapy water and a bottle brush.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikArroz con gandules, rice with pigeon peas, is considered the national dish of Puerto Rico. And for good reason. This flavorful rice and pea dish encompasses the shared connections between West African, Spanish, and indigenous Taíno ingredients and cooking methods that influence the cuisineof the island. As a chef and recipe developer, I often find that sharing my love of Puerto Rican food with others always starts with a brief historic rundown of our food and culture with those who may not be familiar with it.
When the influence of Spanish cooking methods and foods were introduced to the island during colonization, they overlapped with the indigenous Taíno cuisine and the West African dishes of the enslaved populations who were brought to the island to work the sugar cane plantations. For example, indigenous foods, such as yautia (similar to a taro root), yuca, annatto seeds, recao (culantro), and calabaza (West Indian pumpkin) along with West African foods like rice, pigeon peas, plantain, okra, yams, and coconuts are all still used in our cuisine to this very day. Spanish ingredients like olive oil, citrus, eggplant, meats like pork and beef, and importantly, the use of sofrito (an herby and aromatic seasoning blend) also play a major role in our dishes.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThe more I learned about Puerto Rican cuisine outside of what I was taught by my mother and grandmothers, the more I appreciated our connection to West Africa and across the diaspora: most notably, the rice and peas we frequently eat both in Charleston (where I currently live) and in Puerto Rico, the savory or sweet plantain, the spicy pepper sauces, and the fritters: they all come directly from West African influence. This particular connection between cultures is crucial to understanding our national dish and embracing the flavors that are built while cooking it.
Building and layering flavor is important to this dish, and the base starts out like most savory Puerto Rican meals: with sofrito. This aromatic seasoning base made of peppers, onions, garlic, and herbs lays the foundation for the tender rice, which is studded with smoked ham chunks, briny capers, pimentos, and pigeon peas. The seasoned mixture that’s created while cooking this base and before adding the rice is what gives all of the flavor to the dish itself.
Pigeon peas were introduced to our cuisine by West Africans and these beans (yes, they’re technically beans) are prepared in many different ways, stewed with plantain dumplings, tossed into a variety of salads, or simmered in soups, but they truly get to shine in this rice dish. Gandules tend to have a crisp, firm texture and somewhat nutty flavor, often difficult to describe to people who haven’t had them before.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikToasting the rice is another important step when it’s time to combine it with the seasoned ham and pigeon peas. Making sure rice is rinsed and drained is a standard practice in many kitchens around the world to avoid mushy rice, but toasting it ensures fluffy and individual grains later. When the rice is almost done, it’s topped with a banana leaf to finish steaming and you end up rounding out the dish with a subtle and slightly sweet finish. It only takes a few tricks to create a well-balanced one-pot rice meal.
If wanting to make pegao, which is what we call the often coveted scorched rice at the bottom of the pot, let the rice continue to cook for another 15-20 minutes, carefully adjusting the heat as needed to avoid burning the rice. It’s easier to make this using an aluminum dutch oven called a caldero or heavy-bottomed pot instead of nonstick pots. When serving pegao, it’s traditionally served on the side to accompany the rice itself and normally fought over at the dinner table.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikArroz con gandules has always been a favorite recipe I’ve grown up with and I love making this to introduce people to Puerto Rican food. And the great part about making this particular rice dish is that once you learn how to make it, you can make any other variation of Puerto Rican rices. Easily adaptable, you can omit the smoked ham and substitute bacon (which I often do) or smoked turkey, or not put any meat at all to make it vegan, which is great for a variety of guests or dietary restrictions at your dinner table. As a kid, my mom always made our dishes with olives but since I have an aversion to them, I prefer capers for that tiny pop of salty flavor needed in the rice.
This dish is commonly served during the Puerto Rican holiday season, one of the longest in the Caribbean (starting before Christmastime and ending on Three Kings’ Day), or on special occasions like barbecues, quinceañeras, or weddings, but I love making smaller batches at home when the craving really hits. Being able to recreate the same feeling from the holidays on a smaller scale makes this national dish an approachable move in my cooking routine.
For the Sofrito: In a food processor or blender, combine all of the ingredients together and pulse, adding 1 to 2 tablespoons of water if needed to create sauce, similar to pesto or salsa. Refrigerate for up to 5 days or portion into ice cube trays or containers and freeze for up to 6 months.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIn a medium-sized pot or dutch oven, over medium heat, add 2 tablespoons neutral cooking oil. Once hot and shimmering, add the 1/2 cup smoked ham cubes and cook until crisp around the edges, about 7-10 minutes, stirring often.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikNext, add the ¼ cup fresh sofrito, 2 tablespoons diced pimento peppers, 2 tablespoons capers, 2 teaspoons sazón spice blend, 1 teaspoon adobo spice blend, 1 crumbled chicken bouillon cube, and 1 large bay leaf. Stir well to combine everything and cook until the sofrito is fragrant, about 3 minutes.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikAdd the drained pigeon peas and stir. Cook the peas with the ham and sofrito mixture for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Then, add 1 cup rinsed and drained rice, stirring to toast the rice and make sure all the grains are evenly coated with the seasoned pea mixture for another 5 minutes.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikOnce the rice is toasted, add the water and the reserved pigeon pea liquid. Taste and adjust seasoning with kosher salt and black pepper to your liking.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWhen the rice and liquid are both rapidly boiling and the water has mostly evaporated (you should see little bubble pockets in the pot), turn the heat down to low, stir the rice to fold it over on itself, cover the rice with the banana leaf, cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid, and let the rice steam for 20 minutes.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikOnce your timer is done, fluff the rice using a fork and serve immediately with sliced ripe avocado and tostones (twice-fried plantains).
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikSpecial EquipmentCaldero or Dutch oven
NotesUsing dry or canned pigeon peas for the recipe is definitely personal preference. During the holiday season when making this in large batches, I prefer using dry pigeon peas that get sent to me from my family back home in Puerto Rico. To prep those, I pressure cook them with fresh sofrito, a smoked ham hock, and other aromatics until they’re tender and store them in plastic deli containers and freeze until I’m ready to cook with them. At that point, I portion what I need and then continue the recipe. Canned pigeon peas are just as good and definitely save on time in the kitchen!
Depending on which brand of sazón or adobo spice blends you use, the saltiness will vary between each. Keep that in mind while making this recipe and adjust accordingly to your liking to avoid oversalting the rice. I prefer to make my blends at home to control the salt level, so if using store-bought blends, start with 1 teaspoon and work from there.
Frozen banana leaves can be found in most international grocery stores and I always keep them on hand for steaming rice and proteins. Simply cut out a portion of the leaf that will fit into the pot you’re using by tracing the edge of the pot lid on the leaf to get the right size.
If wanting to make pegao, which is the often coveted scorched rice at the bottom of the pot, let the rice continue to cook for another 15-20 minutes, carefully adjusting the heat as needed to avoid burning the rice. It’s easier to make this using an aluminum dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot instead of nonstick pots. When serving pegao, it’s traditionally served on the side to accompany the rice itself.
Make-Ahead and StorageUsing dry or canned pigeon peas for the recipe is definitely personal preference. If using dry pigeon peas, pressure cook them with fresh sofrito, a smoked ham hock, and other aromatics until they’re tender and store them in plastic deli containers and freeze until ready to cook. At that point, simply portion what’s needed and then continue the recipe as written.
The finished rice dish can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 2 days, and leftovers are great topped with a fried egg.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikChamporado is a slightly sweet, chocolatey porridge topped with a drizzle of condensed milk and a smattering of dried salted fish. The salty-sweet porridge is typically served for breakfast or as a midday snack in the Philippines.
For those familiar with Mexican cooking, the name of this dish might be familiar—and that's no accident. For at least 200 years, the Philippines and Mexico were tied together as colonies of Spain, working as ports for the Galleon Trade. That historical trade route brought on the exchange of flora, fauna, language, cuisine, knowledge, and people. That exchange, albeit forced, contributed to the evolution of Filipino cuisine to what it is now. Champorado is a derivative of the Mexican corn-based chocolate drink known as champurrado.
Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik
It’s a great example of a Mexican dish indigenized into Filipino cuisine. To make it our own, Filipinos used rice instead of corn. (Adopting grain-based porridges was something Filipinos already had experience with: Before Spanish colonization, the Chinese had introduced congee to the Philippines, which we turned into our own versions like lugaw and arroz caldo.) Cacao is not endemic to the Philippines; it originated in Mexico, arriving by way of the galleon trade. Its addition, in the form of tablea (pure ground roasted chocolate that's shaped into tablets), was a nod to the original Mexican drink. Lastly, the addition of condensed milk arrived with soldiers during the American occupation of the Philippines, who introduced canned goods into our diets.
Tablea is unrefined ground chocolate shaped into logs that are then divided, resulting in a tablet shape. Tablea is usually consumed in a hot chocolate drink, known as sikwate in some regions or just plain tsokolate. In the colonial period, tsokolate, the different ways the drink was prepared was used as a way to judge people in terms of their “worth.” Tsokolate-eh, meaning in its concentrated form, was reserved only for the higher echelons of society, whilst Tsokolate-ah, meaning in a watered down form, was served for the less important people in society. Now, tsokolate has come a long way from being the drink of the elite to the drink of the people.
Filipino champorado was originally made by boiling sticky rice with water, mixing in sugar and tablea, and then finishing with coconut milk or cow’s milk to balance it. The salted dried fish is usually served on the side to complement the dish. It may sound unusual to those unfamiliar, but salty-sweet seafood snacks are common in much of Asia, and seafood and chocolate specifically have been known to share flavor compounds that make them taste great together.
Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik
My version of champorado starts with soaking sticky rice in water, which softens the starch to produce a fluffier texture, and shortens the cooking time. I also like to add coconut milk to the soaked sticky rice for a creamier consistency. Tablea can be found in most Filipino or Asian markets as well as online, but since it can take some effort to track it down, I used a combination of finely chopped chocolate in varying percentages for this recipe: 100%, 70% and 64%. This combination melts seamlessly into the champorado and provides a balanced flavor that's perfectly bittersweet, though any combination of chocolates that are roughly equivalent to the listed ones will also work. (I’ve tried straight-up 100% and 90% chocolate, and neither yields the flavor I was looking for, while the lower-percentage chocolates alone also fall short.) However, if you can find tablea, you can just use it.
As for the salted dried fish, it’s typical to use daing or tuyo, which are common terms for dried fish. These dried fish are usually made with smaller fish like scad, sardines, or rabbitfish, though I like to use dilis, which are dried anchovies. I take the extra step of toasting the dried fish with fresh Thai chile and coating it in caramel before serving. The candied anchovies by themselves not only pair even more seamlessly with the champorado, but they also make a great salty-sweet snack. Although I’ve made it optional, I highly encourage you to try it, just once, your taste buds would thank you.
For the Champorado: Place rice in a medium bowl and cover by at least 2 inches of room temperature water. Cover bowl and let soak at room temperature for at least 3 hours and up to overnight. Drain rice.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIn a 6-quart pot, add 2 cups (475ml) water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add soaked rice and coconut milk and cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pot constantly with a wooden spatula or spoon to prevent sticking, until liquid has been mostly absorbed and rice is almost fully softened, 15 to 20 minutes.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikReduce the heat to maintain a simmer, then stir in chocolate, sugar, and salt until chocolate is melted and thoroughly incorporated; make sure to scrape the bottom of the pot to prevent the starch from sticking and burning. The consistency of the rice should be similar to porridge or thick congee. Cover pot and set aside.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikMeanwhile, for the Spicy Candied Anchovies (optional): Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Heat a 10-inch stainless-steel skillet over medium-high heat until lightly smoking. Add anchovies and chile, and cook for 1 minute to allow the flavors to meld.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikAdd sugar, increase heat to high, and cook, stirring constantly to prevent crystallization on the sides, until anchovies are caramelized and deep amber in color, 3 to 5 minutes (the anchovies should be fully coated in the caramelized sugar). Transfer candied anchovies to prepared baking sheet, spreading in as thin a layer as possible, and let cool completely. Once cool, use your hands to break the anchovies apart.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikTo Serve: Scoop champorado into individual serving bowls, drizzle with condensed milk, and top with candied anchovies (if using). Serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikNotesYou can use either long-grain sticky rice like Filipino malagkit or short-grain sticky rice for champorado.
You can opt to use Filipino tablea (roasted cacao tablets) instead of the mix of chocolate bars; tablea should also be chopped finely before adding to your rice.
You can also opt to serve with daing or tuyo (other dried fish) that are quickly toasted in a skillet without the chile and caramel, if desired.
Make-Ahead and StorageChamporado can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days. To reheat, warm champorado in the microwave for 1 to 2 minutes; if using a stovetop, add water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until desired consistency.
Candied anchovies can be stored in an airtight container for 1 to 2 weeks.
The house recommends snails in a tomato-rich broth.Serious Eats / Kevin Vaughn“What’s the name of the woman that comes to sing tango?” I ask. Oscar González’s eyebrows come together in the middle of his forehead as he stares pensively at the scene in the crowded restaurant, rolling through a mental rolodex of different characters. He's been waiting tables for the last 18 years at Miramar, a bodegón in Buenos Aires’ historic San Cristóbal neighborhood.
“Her name is Ana,” he responds. But before he can launch into an anecdote, Ana slinks into the dining room from a side entrance and immediately begins belting out a tango ballad: "Anoche, de nuevo te vieron mis ojos/anoche, de nuevo te tuve a mi lado" ("Last night, my eyes saw you again/Last night, I was back by your side.")
It’s 3 o'clock on a chilly Tuesday afternoon and the packed lunch crowd’s loud murmur subsides to near silence in an instant. It’s been a year since my last visit here—I prefer to save my cross-town pilgrimages to this restaurant for the winter to tuck into a bowl of oxtail stew or mussels provenzal. Ana’s song fills the room, accompanied at times by a loud gush of air emitted by the espresso machine and noise of traffic on the avenue outside, and then it’s over; people applaud, pull a few bills from their wallets to deposit into Ana’s hat, and promptly return to their meals. The white noise of table chatter and silverware clanging against ceramic plates returns, and Ana disappears back into the crowded street.
Miramar has been a neighborhood staple and choice spot for artists, writers, and tango singers since 1950.Serious Eats / Kevin Vaughn“This place is hard to describe,” says Oscar. “It’s magic. Lots of new restaurants try to imitate bodegones like this, but you can’t create history out of nothing.”
Bodegones are Italo-Hispano restaurants that became popular in Buenos Aires beginning around the 1930s and remain ubiquitous across the city. They serve as a reflection of the massive waves of immigrants that arrived in Argentina at the turn of the 19th century from all across Europe, particularly Italy and Spain, which played an essential role in building the country’s capital out of a dusty provincial city of the old Spanish colony. Open a menu and you’ll see the mark of these immigrants: There’s always a Spanish-esque tortilla served well-done or extra runny, Italian-ish fresh pastas that splatter sauce everywhere, and one or two hidden dishes brought over from the old country by the original owner that make each restaurant its own unique universe.
By the 1960s, European immigration all but stopped, and the construction of restaurants like Miramar slowly petered out. They are relics of another time, as a brief glance at the vast majority of their customers would confirm. Although an older crowd isn’t the entirety of their customer base, it’s certainly their most loyal.
Aside from the style of the cuisine, bodegones all treat their customers the same, and there are only two kinds of customers: You're either a loyal patron that’s been coming for decades or a random diner who's walked in off the street. The owner of a popular Italian cantina (who preferred not to be named for this article) once summed up the attitude of the bodegón like this: "We give the service we are required to—nothing more and nothing less. We’re here to make good food and take it from the kitchen to your table. Some people get annoyed that we don’t hang around and chat or cater to them."
Her assessment, however, is a bit overexaggerated. Going to a bodegón for the first time is like a first visit with the in-laws: everyone is cordial, and the vibe is homey and may even be warm. But if you want to be treated like family, you have to keep showing up. Once you prove that you’re in it for the long run, you’re in.
“A lot of my good friends started as customers,” explains Oscar shortly after Ana disappears. “There's a customer that lets me use his beach house in the summer. I take my daughters. He could charge a lot for that but won't charge me.”
Oscar excuses himself to grab an order from the kitchen. Before he could get there, he’s intercepted by a table of four older men. “How are you?” one yells. “We’ve been waiting all afternoon to talk to you.”
Miramar opened in 1948. Prior to that, it was a hat shop that counted acclaimed tango singer Carlos Gardel amongst its most loyal customers. For nearly five decades, Miramar originally functioned as a rotisería, a neighborhood take-out spot that served homey Italo-Hispano dishes. The first head chef, Cabaleiro, worked the kitchen well into his 80s; today, his protégé, Richard Llanos, continues making the same exact dishes, but to dine-in.
A tortilla Española prepared with dry chorizo and served babé, or extra yolky.Serious Eats / Kevin VaughnIn the early aughts, Miramar expanded from a take-out joint into a full-blown bodegón, known around the city for its Galician cuisine. On the wall, signs encourage you to PIDA CARACOLES ("Order the Snails'') or emphatically announce RABO DE TORO: ESPECIALIDAD DE LA CASA ("Oxtail: The House Specialty"). This time around, I order the snails. While I sip on a Mendozan Chardonnay with whiffs of lemongrass, I tease the snails out of their shell with a toothpick, each erupting along with squirts of a tomato and wine broth that leave gray and red spots on a pressed white tablecloth already dirtied with breadcrumbs. The bodegón is an elegant mess—if you haven’t stained the tablecloth, did you even have a good meal?
I’ve always been fascinated by places like this, and not just because of the communities they cultivate, nor the aura of nostalgia they provide in the form of pressed tablecloths, wood paneled walls, and posters of the old country. The headline of a framed restaurant review hanging on a dark wooden column at Miramar reads, "The Way Our Grandparents Ate.” While that phrase gets thrown around a lot when people talk about bodegones, as if this food belongs to some long-lost generation, I disagree. Bodegones fascinate me because the food they serve isn’t stuck in time; it transcends it. No matter how much the city grows and food culture expands, you can always find yourself a seat at a bodegón—your bodegón—and the food is always there, just as you remember it.This isn’t the food of los abuelos, or grandparents; it’s the food of the people of Buenos Aires—los Porteños.
That nostalgia does a disservice to bodegones and their food, much as the description of Buenos Aires as a European city in South America—repeated by both foreigners and locals alike—flattens the city's character, as if Paris was copied and pasted onto the beaches of the Río de la Plata. Neither recognizes the confluence of immigrants from across the globe, nor the way that multi-generation Porteños have blended and created a culture that's unique.
“Immigrants arrived from around the world and had to communicate in broken Spanish peppered with words from their homeland,” explains Mariana Radisic Koliren, owner of the sustainable travel company Lunfarda Trave, named after the country’s characteristic slang. “Those words became the base for our slang, Lunfardo, the intersection and meeting point for the diversity of Argentina. European languages merged with words from Indigenous and African origins. Lunfardo became the living testament of the mosaic of cultures that Buenos Aires became in the late 1800s.”
Lunfardo and the bodegón are both forms of communication and reaffirmation—the former, an outward expression of belonging to the idiosyncrasies of this specific place; the latter, the ingestion of our city between bites of bread and sips of wine, a Eucharist that also includes a giant plate of noodles doused in red sauce.
Any thick, leather-bound menu you open at a bodegón will leave you confronted with a culinary dialect, a language both familiar and foreign that one must practice in order to become fluent. Anybody can tell you the difference between a pesto and bolognesa; only the most studious have a breadth of pasta sauce knowledge to choose between puttanesca, Parisienne, scarparo, rosa, fileto, or principe di Napoli. What are sardines de vigo? And how are sea bass a la Vasca, a la Veneciana, and a la Lyonessa different? Why are milanesas denoted by geography? Would you like one a la Napolitana, Suiza, or Maryland (topped with tomato sauce, ham and cheese; served with a mustard-induced cream and cheese sauce; or accompanied with a fried banana and creamed corn, respectively). Obviously, everybody knows that the latter is only made with chicken—at Don Ignacio, a dive dedicated exclusively to beef milanesas (32 of them), they looked at me cock-eyed when I asked about the absence of the Maryland, as if beef was the odd ingredient.
Menu staples nod to the bodegón's Spanish roots: oxtail, snails, and tortilla Españolas.Serious Eats / Kevin Vaughn“Be careful about calling this food European,” warns historian and food scholar Carina Perticone. “They may have European roots, but we have modified them so much that there is only a trace of European-ness left. There are plenty of dishes that appear European but are completely unique to here. These foods are American, they’re Argentine-American, they’re Rioplatenses.”
I thought of my go-to neighborhood bodegón, the German-owned Gambrinus. I often have a hard time deciding between a matambre a la pizza—a tough cut of meat that translates to “kill hunger," which was given to butchers after a long day's work, and is today served with tomato sauce and cheese on top—or pork stewed in a sticky plum sauce (French? Umbrian? Romanian? None of the above?) served with creamy mashed potatoes, or gnocchis piled with a thick, paprika-heavy goulash.
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It is just past 11 p.m. on a cold Thursday night and I’m sitting at a table in the back corner of Bar Norte, a bodegón that has been popular in Buenos Aires’ tribunal district since it was opened by a group of Spanish immigrants in 1975. By day, it’s sparsely filled with suits and ties; by night, it has the same suits with loosened ties—with bottles of Coke swapped out for bottles of wine—alongside neighborhood patrons, and couples and friends who are making their way in or out of one of the two theaters that sit on the other side of the plaza.
The place is packed. I’m squeezed into a chair that’s been jammed between the table and an armoire that houses bottles of salad dressing, stacks of folded tablecloths, and silverware that lets off a loud, metallic echo each time a new table is set. When the crew of middle-aged waiters aren’t reaching behind my head for a wine glass, they’re rushing past me with plates stacked like towers: ñoquis topped with maroon-red stewed beef estofado and milanesas that droop over either end of their plates; tortillas Españolas that sit in a shallow mote of runny yolk, and long strings of spaghetti that wait to be mixed with one of the 26 salsas on the menu, which gives clear notice that “the SAUCES are charged separately.”
The house recommends snails in a tomato-rich broth.Serious Eats / Kevin Vaughn“You’ve been here before, right?” asks the waiter. I had—four times, to be exact. On each occasion, I was waited on by this same older man, except for the time that I sat at the table adjacent to him while he took his lunch break; me with a tenderloin and mushroom sauce with noisette potatoes, him with a grilled fish and salad.
His question catches me off guard. Not because of the boisterous scene in front of me but because it feels like the start of an initiation. He introduces himself as Pancho, and I can’t help but feel excited; a level up, the beginning of my initiation as a regular. “Yeah, I’ve been here a few times,” I reply with my best feigned nonchalance, and extend my hand. “I’m Kevin.”
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmChecking out with a literal grocery cart full of citrus got me a few sideyes from Trader Joe’s employees. “It’s for a review,” I whisper-shouted at the cashier, who looked at me a little strange and then said, “I asked if you wanted the grapefruits in a bag.” Fine. Someone was clearly feeling self-conscious! (It was me.)
But, I will suffer for my work, the work being: testing electric citrus juicers. These machines are helpful if you’re a fan of fresh-squeezed orange or grapefruit juice or if you’re looking to juice a whole bunch of citrus to make something like a lemon custard or key lime pie. To find the best models, I evaluated 11 popular electric citrus juicers—using them to juice citrus of different sizes and evaluating their speed, yield, usability, and cleanup.
The Winners, at a GlanceThis model juiced exceptionally well (especially large citrus) and consistently produced some of the highest yields in the least amount of time. It had a reamer with a large spindle that anchored citrus in place, a juice cup that securely pressed the citrus down onto the reamer, and an ergonomic handle that felt comfortable to grip and use as leverage. Its all-metal construction comes at a higher price point, but makes for a quality, heavier machine that was anchored in place while it worked.
The Breville The Citrus Press is constructed much like the Press Pro (it even has the same wattage), performed equally well for the most part, and was just as easy to use. The Press Pro had a significantly higher orange juice yield, while its cheaper sibling did a little better with grapefruits. Ultimately, this could come down to variation in the citrus, but we did think that the metal construction and sturdiness of the Press Pro edged out The Citrus Press just slightly, and that’s why it appears first on this list. However, both are fantastic juicers, and you’d likely be happy with either.
This was one of the best-performing juicers, especially out of the models that rely on hand strength to help juice citrus (versus a lever, like that of the Brevilles). It was also pretty quiet and, importantly, very aesthetically pleasing and available in a handful of colors. It has a domed lid the company says can be used “as a bowl for fruit and peel” and makes the juicer look a little like a rocket ship.
While this juicer sounds not great when on, it worked the best of the inexpensive models we tested—juicing limes, oranges, and grapefruits effectively. It comes with a cover and wrap-around cord storage, too. Unlike the rest of our favorite models, the Black+Decker has a 32-ounce carafe with a pour spout that juice drains into, which could be appealing for those who don’t want to juice into a measuring cup/glass.
While this juicer didn’t perform the best, it still did well—especially with larger citrus. Its real appeal is in its ease: to use it, you open the hinged lid, add the citrus onto the reamer’s spindle, close the lid, then press a button and the juicer raises a straining platform up, compresses the citrus slightly, then rotates the platform/reamer to juice the citrus before lowering the platform back down. If you find citrus juicers that rely more on hand/wrist strength inaccessible, then this is a good option.
The TestsThe Vinci had a unique, hands-free design: a platform pressed into the citrus, rotated to juice the citrus, then lowered back down.Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm Control Group: We juiced five limes by hand and with our favorite manual citrus juicer from Chef’n, weighing the fruit beforehand and the strained juice after juicing, and timing how long it took to do both. * Limes Test: With each juicer, we juiced five limes (halved) to see how the models did with a small citrus, timing how long it took to do so. We weighed the citrus before juicing and then weighed the strained juice, calculating the percentage yield. * Oranges Test: With each juicer, we juiced two oranges (halved) to see how the models did with a medium-sized citrus, timing how long it took to do so. We weighed the oranges before juicing, then weighed the strained juice to determine percentage yield. * Grapefruits Test (Winners-Only): With each of our favorite juicers, we juiced two grapefruits (halved) to see how they did with a large citrus. We weighed the grapefruits before juicing, then weighed the strained juice to calculate percentage yield. * Usability Tests: Throughout testing, we evaluated how easy each juicer was to use. We also noted how loud it was and the length of its power cord. * Cleanup Tests:* We washed each juicer’s removable parts by hand after each test. We also placed our favorite juicers’ dishwasher-safe parts in the dishwasher after testing, making sure they emerged unscathed.
What We LearnedLever-Style Electric Citrus Juicers Were Easier to Use, But Only When They Were Designed WellSerious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmThere were two main styles of juicers, the first one being lever-operated. With these juicers, you place the fruit on a reamer’s spindle, then lower a lever with a dome-shaped juice cup down onto the reamer. The reamer rotates while the juice cup presses down on the citrus.
This style of juicer keeps you away from the juicing action, saving some hand/wrist strength (though you do have to use some to press and hold down the lever). However, only the Breville lever-style citrus juicers worked well enough for us to recommend them. These juicers only began rotating their reamers when the juice cup was lowered onto them and featured long, pointy spindles that really kept citrus in place. They also had reamers with pointier fins and longer wings that sat more flush at the base of the straining plate, meaning that they juiced citrus more effectively and continued to juice any extra pulp in the strainer plate as the reamer rotated. They were heavy (weighing about seven to 11 pounds), too, and felt very stable on the work surface.
The Brevilles' reamers (far left and middle) had sharper spindles and fins, which contributed to the juicers' efficacy.Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmThe other two lever-style juicers we tested (from Gourmia and Eurolux) were plagued by issues. For starters, their reamers began to move as soon as we put pressure on them, which happened pretty much every time citrus was placed on their spindles. This felt jarring. They also had duller reamers and shorter spindles that less effectively juiced citrus, especially smaller limes (the Gourmia only yielded 15% juice during this test compared to the Breville Pro’s 35%). They were also lightweight, and both featured suction cup bases, which were annoying and made them harder to move. The weight difference was particularly apparent with the Eurolox, which, at about 6.5 pounds, shifted more when on. Its handle also didn’t seem particularly well-secured and moved side-to-side as the reamer rotated.
Rotating Reamers Required More Hand and Wrist Strength Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmThe second predominant electric citrus juicer style was a pressure-activated reamer set over a strainer plate that either fed into a pitcher or smaller basin that had a chute and strained into a measuring cup/glass.
These pressure-activated reamers required more hand/wrist strength than the lever-style ones, as you had to continually press/hold the citrus down. Besides the Smeg, these juicers were also much smaller and lighter, which was a boon for storage but meant it was tougher to keep stable while working. They also tended to be much louder.
This pressure-activated stye of juicer did best with larger citrus, where you could really wrap your hand around the citrus and reamer to aid in juicing.Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmOutside of usability differences, this style of citrus juicer did worse with smaller citrus and better with larger citrus, as you could really wrap your hand around the oranges and grapefruits to help them contact the points of the reamer more and juice thoroughly. This type of juicer also often had smaller, shallower juicer plates, which meant leftover pulp spun around the top of the reamer’s wings instead of being further juiced as the reamer rotated, as happened with the Brevilles. Their reamers also tended to jam more because of this.
All of the Electric Citrus Juicers Made Great JuiceSerious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmPerformance and usability aside, all of the juice from the electric citrus juicers was great. In fact, any taste differences were pretty minimal and, honestly, it was hard to tell if they could be attributed to citrus variation and not the juicer itself.
The takeaway: all of the juicers we tested made very nice, fresh-tasting citrus juice we’d happily drink and/or use in recipes.
There Were Minimal Cleanup DifferencesThanks to pulp and general citrus juice stickiness, all of the electric citrus juicers were, by design, a little annoying to clean. Plus, they all had multiple removable parts (a strainer plate, reamer, carafe, juice cup, etc.) that had to be scrubbed down separately. (Note: all of our winners had dishwasher-safe parts, though.)
The one cleanup difference to note was with the reamers that had adjustable strainer plates meant to control pulp levels via a slider near the handle (like the models from Black+Decker, Dash, and Proctor Silex). These plates were dual-layered and most of them did not easily come apart, trapping pulp and juice and, generally, being tougher to get clean.
The Criteria: What to Look for in an Electric Citrus JuicerSerious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm
Our favorite electric citrus juicers juiced citrus of various sizes well, were easy to use, and had removable, dishwasher-safe parts. While we thought the Breville lever-style citrus juicers were a cinch to operate and, overall, the most effective, they’re also very tall and tough to store. The two pressure-activated juicers we recommend (Smeg and Black+Decker) are more compact options. For those who find electric citrus juicers tough on the hands/wrists, we tested one mostly-automated model that only requires you to place the citrus on a spindle, close the lid, and press a button to juice.
What we liked: With an all-metal construction, this solid juicer worked effectively and was very easy to use. It has a comfortable, grippy lever that was easy to hold onto and an extra-pointy spindle that kept citrus in place. Its reamer had long, pointy fins and wings that sat more flush with the strainer plate, which helped to effectively juice citrus and remove any additional juice from the pulp in the plate as the reamer rotated. Unlike some lever-style juicers, the reamer only began spinning once the lever was pressed down onto it. It’s also very quiet, has a long power cord, and its removable parts are dishwasher-safe. We liked the “eject” button on its juicing cone, which made it easy to remove.
What we didn’t like: This expensive juicer is also very large—weighing 11 pounds and measuring 18 inches tall. Its handle also doesn’t seem to lock down for more compact storage.
Price at time of publish: $230.
Key Specs Weight: 11 pounds * Dimensions: 11 x 9 x 18 inches * Materials: Stainless steel * Noise level: Quiet * Cord length: 36 inches * Care instructions: Removable parts are dishwasher-safe * Warranty:* 1-year limited
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhat we liked: This juicer is fairly identical to the Press Pro and performed as such, with some small differences. Namely, it has a plastic reamer and body instead of metal, which makes it lighter weight, but a little less stable. Otherwise: it worked exceptionally well, juicing citrus small and large quickly and thoroughly. It was very quiet and had a long power cord, which we appreciated.
What we didn’t like: The juicing cup had to be pulled off with a little force (this model does not have the “eject” button of the Press Pro). At 18 inches high, it’s still very tall and hard to store.
Price at time of publish: $150.
Key Specs Weight: 7.1 pounds * Dimensions: 7.5 x 9.5 x 18 inches * Materials: Plastic; stainless steel * Noise level: Quiet * Cord length: 37.25 inches * Care instructions: Removable parts are dishwasher-safe * Warranty:* 1-year limited
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhat we liked: This retro-looking juicer is pretty snazzy and eye-appealing, like all of Smeg’s appliances. However, we also found it worked well—especially with larger oranges and grapefruits, where we could really wrap our hands around the citrus and help the rather blunt reamer juice it. It was one of the quietest pressure-activated electric juicers we tested (a smidge louder than the Brevilles). Most of its removable parts (besides the reamer) are dishwasher-safe, and it’s an overall more compact option.
What we didn’t like: Its lighter weight and slightly narrow base meant it shifted occasionally during tests, but not alarmingly so. And it was still much heavier and more stable than other juicers of this style. Of course, it’s pricier.
Price at time of publish: $200.
Key Specs Weight: 5.5 pounds * Dimensions: 6.54 x 6.54 x 11.06 inches * Materials: Stainless steel; plastic * Noise level: Fairly quiet * Cord length: 33.5 inches * Care instructions: Reamer must be hand-washed; other removable parts are dishwasher-safe * Warranty:* 1-year
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhat we liked: A lightweight, compact option with a 32-ounce carafe, this affordable juicer did well throughout testing, but performed best with large citrus. It features swappable smaller and larger reamers, as well as cord storage and a handy pouring spout on its pitcher. Its removable parts are dishwasher-safe.
What we didn’t like: This model is awfully loud, has a short power cord, and is very lightweight, which means it’s not super stable. While the carafe does have measurement markings (for 8, 16, 24, and 32 ounces and 200, 400, 600, 800, and 1000 milliliters), the markings are clear, tiny, and tough to see. They’re also on one side of the carafe only, whereas other models had them on both sides, which we thought was more user-friendly.
Price at time of publish: $24.
Key Specs Weight: 2 pounds * Dimensions: 7.68 x 7.68 x 9.5 inches * Materials: Plastic * Noise level: Loud * Cord length: 24.5 inches * Care instructions: Removable parts are dishwasher-safe * Warranty:* 2 years
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmWhat we liked: This was the only mostly automated electric citrus juicer we tested, and we think it’s a good option for those who find other models difficult to use or too reliant on hand/wrist strength. Because the juicer juices the citrus for you after you’ve placed it on the spindle, shut the lid, and pressed a button, it’s very easy to use. It also has a fairly long power cord.
What we didn’t like: It didn’t juice the best, but still did a pretty good job. It was also moderately loud and its attached, hinged lid was more cumbersome to clean.
Price at time of publish: $100.
Key Specs Weight: 4.31 pounds * Dimensions: 7 x 8.5 x 12.5 inches * Materials: Plastic; stainless steel * Noise level: Moderately loud * Cord length: 35.5 inches * Care instructions: Removable parts are top-rack dishwasher-safe * Warranty:* 1-year limited
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmThe Competition* Cuisinart CCJ-500P1 Pulp Control Citrus Juicer: This model did a sub-par job juicing and felt very cheaply constructed (when you pressed the chute up/down, the whole top shifted). * Dash Citrus Juicer Extractor: This juicer almost beat out the Black+Decker for our budget-friendly pick, but it did worse with larger citrus and its plastic lid did not fit well. However, if you’re looking for a budget-friendly recommendation and the Black+Decker is out of stock, this is the one to get. * Gourmia Electric Citrus Juicer: This lever-style juicer juiced limes very poorly. It also had a pressure-activated reamer that moved when we placed citrus on the spindle, which felt more jarring than the Brevilles’ design. * Proctor Silex Juicit Electric Citrus Juicer: This juicer did fine and was another one that was in contention for our budget-friendly recommendation. However, it was even louder than the Black+Decker. That said, it’s still a fine inexpensive electric juicer. * Eurolux Electric Citrus Juicer Squeezer: With suction cup feet that were meant to keep it in place, this lightweight juicer was annoying to move and performed only so-so. Its lever shifted with the rotation of the reamer and its pressure-activated reamer began spinning as soon we placed citrus on it. Like with the Gourmia, we found this jarring. * LUUKMONDE Electric Citrus Juicer: Exceedingly cheap-feeling but not terribly performing, this juicer was very lightweight and shifted too much during testing. It lacked features other inexpensive juicers had, like wrap-around cord storage or a lid.
FAQsHow do you use an electric citrus juicer? How you use an electric citrus juicer depends on the type of juicer you have. For lever-style ones, place a citrus half on the reamer spindle, then lower the juicer’s arm and juicing cup down onto the citrus. The citrus will begin juicing and juice will come out of the juicer’s spout. For a pressure-activated juicer, place a citrus half on the reamer, hold it steady, and press it downwards as the reamer rotates to juice it.
How do you clean an electric citrus juicer? Many electric citrus juicers have dishwasher-safe removable parts (we suggest consulting the manufacturer’s care instructions). Otherwise, hand-wash them with warm, soapy water. The electric base should never be submerged in water and should be wiped with a clean cloth.
Who makes the best electric citrus juicer?
Two of our favorite electric citrus juicers are from Breville. However, we also have top picks from Smeg, Black+Decker, and Vinci.
Serious Eats / Chloe JeongIf you cook, you gotta clean up. Well, you don’t have to, but that’d be pretty gross.
So, it makes sense that Serious Eats staffers—who spend a lot of time in their own kitchens and in the test kitchen—have strong opinions on what the best, most worthwhile cleaning products are. These aren’t your average dish soaps! These aren’t the sponges you could take or leave and hate touching! No—these are the standout, staffer-awarded, 5-star cleaning (and cleaning-adjacent) products that we genuinely use and recommend.
When I first wrote about my love of Swedish dishcloths I had no idea how many people felt the same way, or that the sentiment was shared by other members of the Serious Eats team. I really shouldn’t have been surprised, though, as Swedish dishcloths are incredible. A great substitute for paper towels, we love them for walls, counters, floors, and fixtures, and they’re suitable for use in both the kitchen and the bathroom (or really wherever you might need to wipe something up). Swedish dishcloths are lightweight, machine-washable, durable, and biodegradable, and they come in a variety of sizes and designs. — Jacob Dean, updates editor
Easy-Off is potent stuff—it's basically lye in a foaming, aerosolized form—but that's exactly what makes it so useful for any major cleaning tasks. I use it not just to clean the interior of my oven, which is more or less its stated purpose (I think?), but to also clean oven cooktops and exteriors when all else fails. It eats through burnt-on grease and crud, stripping neglected surfaces back to being good-as-new. Just be careful, you don't want it on your skin or in your eyes, and the fumes can be rough, so open those windows and ventilate well when using. — Daniel Gritzer, senior culinary director
For cleaning stainless steel cookware, sinks, and Dutch ovens, this is my go-to cleanser. I prefer the liquid (soft) cleanser over the powdered version, as I find it more convenient than the powdered one that has to be mixed with water after sprinkling it on. However, both versions work exceptionally well. — Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, commerce editor
Okay, I admit that a huge part of why I love Mrs. Meyer's Clean Day multi-surface spray (and dish soap and hand soap and laundry detergent) is because they have the best scents (geranium is one of my favorites, as is Iowa pine). But, beyond the aromatherapy, this stuff just does a great job at cleaning and making the kitchen or bathroom smell good while doing it. The dish soap is also great, and cuts through grease and tough-to-scrub cooking messes easily. — Grace Kelly, associate commerce editor
This is my go-to all-purpose soap: I use it for dishes and scrubbing down my kitchen, bathroom, and floors. This soap gets real sudsy and you don't need much per use: I usually dilute a drop or two into a quart of water when cleaning and it leaves my surfaces and dishes squeaky clean. — Genevieve Yam, culinary editor
After I scrub my entire kitchen counter, I take my squeegee and sweep all the soapy water into my sink. It makes clean-up so speedy and means my counter is a lot easier to dry with a towel or Swedish dishcloth. — Genevieve
No kitchen cleaning product I’ve ever used has been more miraculous than Mr. Clean Magic Erasers, and they're a favorite of other editors as well. Magic erasers are a lightweight, spongy, non-toxic cleaning tool made from melamine resin foam, which acts like a cross between a sponge and a very fine-grained sandpaper. My wife and I use them for an enormous range of kitchen cleanup tasks, from removing rings and stains from our unsealed stone kitchen counters, to getting dirt and grease off our stove, and to removing spatters of sauce or oil from wherever they may land. They’re also great on pots and pans, kitchen utensils, light switches, and really anywhere you’ll find lasting dirt and gunk. Pro tip: you don’t need the kind with fancy features, designs, scents, or added soaps. Just get the regular rectangular white ones and then cut them in half crosswise. Cutting them in half gives you many more uses than you’d get if you just used the whole block all at once, and you can put your own dish soap of choice onto the block, if desired. — Jacob
The number one tool in any professional coffee bar is a coffee detergent, like Biocaf. It's great at breaking up old coffee and tea stains, and can be used to soak stainless steel, glass, and ceramics to rejuvenate their surfaces. If you need convincing, you can look up time lapse videos to see just how mesmerizing its effectiveness is. Just be sure to wear gloves and wash your hands afterwards: it is caustic in high concentrations. — Jesse Raub, commerce writer
After seeing this stuff all over my Instagram, I was quite easily influenced. I mainly bought the paste to clean my white shoes, and it worked so well that they practically look brand new. While I haven't gotten around to using it anywhere else around the house, that's likely to end soon; it's supposed to be a miracle cleaner on everything from grout to rusty pots, and I can't wait to get my hands dirty. Coming soon: a house that sparkles and shines! — Yasmine Maggio, associate editor
While this isn't our winning full-size dish rack, I've owned it since 2019 and it works fabulously. It still looks pretty great, it has removable, easy-to-clean parts, it's very spacious, and I love its wine glass rack and cup prongs. Plus, in my experience, simplehuman has really great customer service. — Riddley
My husband was the one who introduced this sanitizer to me; it's a home brewer go-to for sanitizing all manner of equipment (because yeast are sensitive little buddies). But if you're into canning, fermenting, preserving, or just really need something to be incredibly clean, this stuff is the stuff to do it. — Grace
The only thing more satisfying than putting some elbow grease into removing stuck-on food bits is knowing that you can scrub as hard as you like and you won't damage the surface of your pans. The blue Scotch-Brite scour pads are great for digging into corners, and because there's no sponge attached, you don't have to worry about them getting mildewy and smelly with old dish water. Cut them in half (or even quarters!) to give yourself more fresh pads to swap in when the old ones lose their grit. — Jesse
I have yet to try a dish soap superior to Dawn Ultra. Its ability to cut through grease is, in my experience, unparalleled, and its viscosity and ability to suds means I can add less to my sponge, and clean more dishes, compared to when I’ve used other brands. To make the price a little easier we prefer to buy it in bulk and then fill off a smaller, reusable squirt bottle that we keep next to the sink. — Jacob
Old habits die hard, and my attachment to Windex is no exception. It was the go-to all-purpose cleaner in all the restaurants where I used to work. We used Windex to clean all sorts of surfaces, not just glass, and its scent is burned into my brain as the scent of a clean space. The dishwashers and porters would use harsher cleaners to get the really stubborn grease and grime off ovens and vents, but Windex was more than enough for almost everything else. Sometimes I feel guilty for not using supposedly Earth-friendlier products like distilled vinegar to clean, but I just can't shake my dependence on the blue stuff. — Daniel
After I sweep or vacuum, I scrub the floors before I mop. Sometimes cookie dough, fruit/vegetable peels, and other miscellaneous cooking casualties fall onto the floor, and the floor brush is great for getting that stuff off. There's a floor squeegee on the other end of this brush (can you tell I really love squeegees?) that makes it easy for you to pool together and mop up that scummy water. — Genevieve
I'm convinced OXO's dish brushes are superior, and I've owned many of their bottle brushes and soap-dispensing brushes over the years. The bottle brush fits perfectly into water bottles, coffee carafes, and other hard-to-reach vessels. The dish brush has replaceable heads and a button that pushes soap out—no need to grab a bottle of dish soap and pause washing dishes to do so. (I even know people who keep one of these in their shower and use it to clean the shower while also, uh, showering). — Riddley
FAQsWhat shouldn't you clean in the dishwasher?We have an in-depth guide that can be found here for what you should and shouldn't put in the dishwasher. Most of it is pretty common sense, but in general you shouldn't put anything metal (besides stainless), anything with a blade or sharp edge, anything wooden, and anything made from natural stone in the dishwasher.
What's the best way to clean stainless steel? To clean stainless steel, we recommend hot, soapy water for daily cleaning and dishwasher detergent, Bar Keeper's Friend, or Easy-Off for tougher-to-remove, burnt-on stuff.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubA knock box isn’t integral for making good espresso at home, but it keeps things efficient and tidier. Centered around a rubber-coated bar or pad, it's designed for knocking spent espresso pucks into a catchbin, resetting your portafilter basket for your next shot. It can be a huge timesaver if you make a lot of espresso at home.
Of course, espresso grounds are the bane of tidy counters everywhere, but so are drips from portafilter spouts. A great knock box catches it all and looks cute to boot. There are tons of different styles available, so we picked out 10 notable knock boxes to find which ones performed the best while looking nice and keeping your home coffee bar spotless.
The Winners, at a GlanceThough it may be simple to look at, the homeffect knock box has a unique knock-pad atop a column in place of a horizontal bar, giving it sturdy knockability in a lightweight package that was super easy to clean.
With a swooping, tapered body and a walnut lid, The Arc was a welcome, stylish addition to our countertops. It also featured a removable knock bar for easy cleaning and a rubber base for shock-absorption.
Dreamfarm’s Grindenstèin has been a home espresso standby since it was launched in 2003. Its compact design and thick rubber bar are great at absorbing the shock of a solid puck-knock, and it’s small enough to fit on most espresso machine’s drip trays when not in use.
Rattleware’s Bumper Knock Box has a commercial quality design used in coffee bars everywhere. It features an offset knock bar for cleaner knocks, a heavy-duty catchbin for durability, a rubber bumper that surrounds the catchbin for added shock absorption, and an attractive maple outer box.
Designed to sit underneath your espresso grinder, this drawer-style knock box also has cutouts on the top for easy sweeping loose grounds into the catchbin. We really loved its usability, though it’s quite big: it was too tall to fit under kitchen cabinets with a grinder on top.
The TestsSerious Eats / Jesse Raub Standard Puck Knock Test: We pulled multiple shots of espresso and knocked the spent puck out into each knock box, noting how easily the puck released, how sturdy and comfortable each knock box was to knock against, and how the design of each knock box affected its performance. * Baked-In Puck Knock Test: We pulled an espresso shot, let it dry out in the portafilter for ten minutes, and then knocked the spent put out into each knock box with an extra hard whack. We noted how easily the puck released, how sturdy the knock box felt with harder knocks, and how the design of each knock box affected its performance. * Usability and Clean Up Tests:* We put each knock box into regular use and evaluated how different design elements affected their ease of use and their ability to keep counters clean, and how easy it was to clean each knock box once they were filled with coffee grounds.
What We LearnedOff-Center Bars Made Knocks SimplerSerious Eats / Jesse RaubThe best knock boxes had an off-center knock bar or knock pad to encourage the espresso pucks to fall directly in the bin. Knocking against a centered bar meant the puck would sometimes split, creating more of a mess in the catchbin. The knock bar on the Rattleware Bumper Knock Box is set around two-thirds of the way across the bin, making it easy to catch just the tip of the portafilter on the bar and letting the puck fall straight down.
The knock pad on the homeffect Knock Box extends out from the front edge of the knock box, letting you easily tap just the back edge of the portafilter on the pad to eject your pucks forward. This made it easy to pop out pucks while catching any stray grounds or drips from the portafilter and keeping pucks intact for easier cleaning later.
Thick Padding Added a Lot of Comfort and StabilityDespite its large size, the Breville knock box had very little rubber padding.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe thicker the rubber coating on the knock surface, the more comfortable it was to knock. We really loved how bouncy the bar on the Dreamfarm Grindenstèin and Dibsta Knock Box Drawer were, but both models from Breville were lacking. With just a thin rubber coating, the knocks on the Breville Knock Box and Breville Knock Box Mini sent a lot of vibrations back to the wrist, which was unsettling. The boxes also hopped on the counter with each knock.
Wider Openings Kept Counters CleanerNarrow knock boxes made it harder to aim.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubNarrow knock boxes, like the Solis Perfetta Knock Box, made a well-placed knock difficult, and also didn’t catch errant drips or loose grounds as well. Wider openings, like on the Rattleware or the larger Breville models, made it easier to aim and kept counters cleaner.
We also liked circular knock boxes, like the homeffect, Dreamfarm, and Crema models. By mirroring the shape of the portafilter basket, the round boxes provided extra space around the entire circumference of the basket for better clean up.
Some Designs Were Unexpectedly SturdyWith a support column that goes all the way to the base, the homeffect knock box was surprisingly sturdy for how lightweight it was.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhile a thick rubber padding added to shock absorption, so did rubber feet and overall design. Surprisingly, the lightweight plastic homeffect knock box had the best shock absorption due to its rubber-coated knock pad and column. By situating the rubber pad on top of a vertical column instead of a horizontal bar, the entire impact is absorbed in the base. Even with more than 16 years of professional coffee experience, we’d never seen a design like this before.
We wish we could say the same great things about the Saint Anthony Industries’ The Bloc, which also featured a knock pad, but the stainless steel bin it was attached to was flimsy and buckled under pressure, causing the knock box to wobble.
Deeper Bins Were More EfficientAfter just two espresso pucks, the St. Anthony Industries knock box was full.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubA home knock box doesn’t need the full capacity of a commercial model, but the Saint Anthony Industries model needed to be emptied after just two pucks. Dialing in an espresso grinder might take three to four shots before you nail the right setting, making this knock box really inconvenient.
Deeper bins, like that of the Crema Coffee Products The Arc, held around eight to 10 shots, allowing you to dial in your grinder, pull yourself and a friend an espresso, and still not need to empty the bin. If a knock box’s main function is being a time saver, then a deeper catchbin is a requirement.
Removable Bars Were Key For Quick CleaningThe Crema knock box was much easier to clean with its removable bar.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubCleaning out a full knock box was easier when the bar was removable. Coffee grounds can get caught in the crease between the wall of the catchbin and the knock bar itself, and removable bars made this area easier to rinse off (as well as easier to empty the grounds). The Solis, homeffect, and Breville Mini all had removable bars that were easy to pop in and out.
The homeffect knock box was actually the easiest to clean, however, as the entire catchbin in a single plastic surface with no corners or connectors. It was another example of how this unique design outperformed most traditional models.
The Criteria: What to Look for in an Espresso Knock BoxSerious Eats / Jesse RaubThe best knock boxes were comfortable yet sturdy to knock against with an off-center knocking platform. They featured wide openings that caught stray drips and grounds, and had a larger capacity, allowing for multiple espresso shots. They were also easy to clean when the pucks started piling up.
What we liked: The knock pad/knock column design on this model is a truly unique approach to knock box design. It allowed for maximum shock absorption, which made it comfortable to knock against while staying firmly rooted to the counter, even with heavy whacks and stuck-in pucks. The fact that the knock platform is also off-center made each popped out puck fall straight into the high-capacity bin below, and its raised sides easily caught any errant drips and loose grounds.
What we didn’t like: The biggest downside is that this knockbox just isn’t that attractive to look at. Knock boxes are part of a home decor, and if you have a specific design taste you’re trying to match, this model might not cut it.
Price at time of publish: $24.
Key Specs Dimensions: 4.5 x 4 inches * Bar width: 4.5 inches * Weight: 9 ounces * Materials: Plastic, rubber, stainless steel * Care instructions: Dishwasher-safe (hand-washing recommended) * Bonus features:* Fits on drip tray, rubber stability base
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhat we liked: With sleek, modern curves and a walnut lid, this knock box looks nice and performs well. We really liked how the lid hid the splatters and old pucks inside, as well as how it covered up most of the old coffee smell. Its vented edges also let the pucks dry out, preventing mold from growing too quickly. It’s tall enough to hold a lot of coffee, and its removable bar rests on two notches instead of threading through the sides, leaving fewer crevices to be cleaned out.
What we didn’t like: It’s a little pricey and narrow, and the knock bar doesn’t have as much padding as we’d like. That being said, it still performed well on knock tests (with a little concentrated aiming), and if looks are a priority, this knock box has ‘em.
Price at time of publish: $55.
Key Specs Dimensions: 5 x 5 inches * Bar width: 2 inches * Weight: 7 ounces * Materials: Plastic, rubber * Care instructions: Dishwasher-safe (hand-wash wooden lid) * Bonus features:* Knock pad/column, rubber stability base
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhat we liked: The Grindenstèin was the first product Dreamfarm ever made, debuting 20 years ago in 2003 as one of the first knock boxes designed for home use. And there’s a reason it’s remained popular: it’s squat design and heavy rubber padding on the knock bar make this compact model sturdy and great at shock absorption. It’s a simple design that’s small enough to fit on most drip trays when not in use, making it a great option for people with limited space.
What we didn’t like: Because it’s so compact, the capacity is smaller than our other favorites. It’s also not the prettiest model out there.
Price at time of publish: $25.
Key Specs Dimensions: 4.5 x 4 inches * Bar width: 4.5 inches * Weight: 9 ounces * Materials: Plastic, rubber, stainless steel * Care instructions: Dishwasher-safe (hand-washing recommended) * Bonus features:* Fits on drip tray, rubber stability base
What we liked: The bonus rubber bumper on this knock box added to overall shock absorption and greatly reduced the need for accuracy. The catch bin itself was welded from thick stainless steel, and the sturdy knock bar had a thick rubber coating. Combined with a snug-fitting, solid maple outer box, and you’ve got one heavy-duty piece. This model is a favorite amongst commercial coffee bars and is designed to stand up to heavy use with a high capacity. If you’ve turned your kitchen into a coffee speakeasy for friends who drop by, this might be what you need to keep the line moving fast.
What we didn’t like: It’s a bit large for most counters, and it’s also expensive. People looking to save counter space or a few dollars might be better suited with one of our other picks.
Price at time of publish: $70.
Key Specs Dimensions: 7.5 x 7 x 4.5 inches * Bar width: 5.5 inches * Weight: 3.5 pounds * Materials: Wood, stainless steel, rubber * Care instructions: Liner is dishwasher-safe, but hand-washing is recommended * Bonus features:* Rubber rim, removable liner, rubber feet
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhat we liked: The Dibasta Knock Box Drawer is designed as a space saver by sitting underneath a grinder: the top is big and sturdy enough to support the weight of a commercial espresso grinder, and the knock bar lives in high-capacity drawer that can hold at least 50 pucks, if not more. We liked how attractive the wood handle accent was, and the removable bar inside had a very thick coating for great shock absorption and comfort. The other detail we really liked was the slits in the roof: stray espresso grounds are notorious for finding there way on the counter in front of a grinder, but with this knock drawer you could simply sweep them into the slits.
What we didn’t like: It’s expensive, and it's big: the drawer added height to each grinder, making it difficult to fit under kitchen cabinets. And at 12 inches, it was also too long to fit on a separate coffee cabinet.
Price at time of publish: $80.
Key Specs Dimensions: 12.4 x 8.14 x 2.55 inches * Bar width: 8 inches * Weight: 6.5 pounds * Materials: Stainless steel, plastic, rubber, wood * Care instructions: Hand-wash only * Bonus features:* Drawer-style storage, high-capacity bin, grinder platform, slots for brushing grounds into
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe Competition * Breville Knock Box Mini: This model was small and didn’t have enough padding: every knock sent it bouncing up off the counter. * Breville Knock Box: This model was way too big and didn’t have enough padding: every knock sent a shockwave to our wrist. * Kynano Knock Box: With an ill-fitting outer box, the catch bin wobbled around with each knock, making it uncomfortable to use. * Solis Perfetta Knock Box: Too narrow, and too many crevices: even with a removable bar and removable liner, coffee grounds made their way between the layers, requiring more cleanup. * Saint Anthony Industries The Bloc: While we liked the tamper caddy and the knock column, the catch bin was too flimsy and buckled under pressure. It also was the lowest capacity out of any knock box and required emptying after just two espresso pucks.
FAQsWhat is a knock box used for?A knock box is used for removing spent espresso pucks from the portafilter basket. Because espresso shots are pulled at nine bars of pressure (around 500 pounds of direct force), the spent pucks often become attached to the inside of the espresso basket and need a good solid whack to shake them free. The knock box has a padded surface to knock against and a catch bin to collect the spent pucks.
Why do you need a coffee knock box?A coffee knock box is great for two reasons: it allows you to swiftly clear out your espresso portafilter basket so you can pull your next shot quicker, and it collects your coffee grounds separate from your regular trash. Because coffee grounds are compostable, many people collect their espresso pucks for their backyard gardens or municipal composting.
When should you clean your knock box?Coffee grounds—even dried out pucks—still have a fair amount of moisture and are susceptible to mold growth. You should remove old pucks from your knock box every few days, and after emptying the grounds, fully clean your knock box to prevent any coffee residue from growing mold.
Are espresso grounds compostable?Coffee grounds can add nitrogen to a compost mix, but they need to be fully composted with other food scraps in order for their benefit to be fully realized. If you want to avoid tossing grounds into the trash, check if there's a local composting service that will collect and treat them for you.
Serious Eats / Diana ChistrugaWhile there's something about the idea of salad for dinner that seems particularly groan-worthy, that's only because all too often our idea of a salad doesn't match up with what salad, as a category of food, actually has to offer. The 15 options below not only represent some of the best salad recipes Serious Eats has developed, they also pull from a range of countries, cultures, and cooking techniques. In addition to the dressing-on-greens rendition we're all familiar with you'll find crunchy shaved winter vegetables, flaked fish, crispy fried eggs, plump beans, beautifully dressed noodles, rich mayo-bound sandwich fillings, and all kinds of herbs. Forget salads you need; these are salads you want.
Roman-Inspired Mixed-Green Salad (Misticanza alla Romana)Vicky WasikFor a truly great mixed greens salad, make your own mix with the freshest stuff you can find: whole heads of lettuce, radicchio, herbs, dandelion greens, and more.
Tiger Salad (Lao Hu Cai)Savory, refreshing, and tart, this dish is inspired by the lao hu cai, or "tiger vegetable salad," served at Xi'an Famous Foods.
The Best Caesar SaladDiana ChistrugaThe crowd-pleasing salad of crisp romaine leaves, crunchy croutons, and a little (or a lot) of anchovy can be made to your liking.
Salmon Bean SaladVicky WasikHere, cooked salmon gets flaked into an easy, hearty salad with plump cranberry beans and peppery arugula.
Tabbouleh SaladVicky WasikTabbouleh is a Middle Eastern vegetarian salad made with chopped parsley, tomatoes, mint, bulgur wheat, and lemon juice.
Warm Kale and Caramelized Mushroom SaladSerious Eats / Qi AiDeeply golden brown sautéed mushrooms pair with hearty kale and a tangy sherry vinegar dressing for a salad that screams comfort.
Fully Loaded Iceberg Wedge SaladVicky WasikThis classic salad is a celebration of rich, cooling flavors and a diversity of textures.
Puntarelle Alla Romana (Puntarelle Salad With Anchovy and Garlic Dressing)Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianIn this classic Roman dish, crisp, juicy shreds of puntarelle are tossed with a potent anchovy- and garlic-heavy dressing.
Salata Falahiyeh (Palestinian or Farmers Salad)Serious Eats / Mai KakishIf all you have at home are tomatoes, onion, and mint, you can enjoy a very delicious salad in no time.
Italian Seafood Salad (Insalata di Mare)Vicky WasikThis chilled seafood salad is fresh and tender, complete with a bright, flavorful dressing.
The Best Classic Chicken SaladJ. Kenji Lopez-AltThe juiciest, most flavorful chicken salad is possible when you sous vide your meat.
Yam Khai Dao (Thai Fried Egg Salad)Dig into this Thai salad of crispy, runny fried eggs with fresh herbs, aromatics, and a sour-spicy dressing.
The Best Egg SaladSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergKeys to a better egg salad: perfectly cooked eggs, a touch of acidity, and crunch.
Yam Woon Sen (Thai Glass Noodle Salad With Shrimp)Vicky WasikThis spicy-sour Thai noodle salad is filling and comes together in minutes.
White Bean and Tuna SaladSasha MarxThis white bean and tuna salad is the perfect protein-packed light meal for when you don't want to do any cooking.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayI learned a ton of kitchen skills when I was a prep cook at a from-scratch restaurant in Providence, Rhode Island. Before entering a commercial kitchen, I’d never broken down a chicken in my life; after my time there, I relished the act (yes, I realize that's a little weird, but it was so satisfying!). Other techniques I learned included how to whip up mayonnaise with an immersion blender, ferment pickles, make hot sauce, and sous vide carrot strips in carrot juice—the works.
But one thing that really struck me was the restaurant's frequent use of a big, boxy dehydrator. While at home most food scraps were destined for the compost bin, at the restaurant, a good bit of what I had always considered future dirt was saved and dehydrated. The sous chef, Benjamin Stroud, would dehydrate leek tops and even mushroom stems, and once they got nice and papery, we’d blitz them in a powerful Vitamix blender to make powders for seasoning all kinds of dishes.
“When I was working as sous chef at Bayberry Beer Hall in Providence, I was tasked with building a pantry for the kitchen to use, and a dehydrator was one of my primary tools for that,” says Stroud, who currently works as the prep cook (and unofficial pastry chef) at the Eddy bar in Providence. “We dehydrated so many things that our spice shelf was overflowing with powders of different colors. Leek tops became a great substitute for onion powder when you wanted something a little more herbaceous. Fennel fronds became a beautiful dust that could go on a plate as a colorful base for steak tartare or be folded into pasta dough. Woody and otherwise unappetizing mushroom stems, instead of going in the compost, became something we could use to up the umami in a dish.”
It was the ultimate form of reducing food waste—and it’s also something you can do at home.
What Is a Food Dehydrator, and How Does It Work?A dehydrator works by blowing warm, dry air over foods, slowly removing moisture and drying them out.
“A dehydrator is a great tool for any cook, as long as you have some space to dedicate and a little patience,” Stroud says. “Dehydrators can run at temperatures much lower than your oven is able to, and with a constant fan they can dry things without ‘cooking’ them, allowing you to preserve color and flavor.”
They are often made up of multiple trays you can layer with foods and then stack or slide together before you start the machine.
“Dehydrators are typically very easy to use: load the trays with whatever you’re drying, set the temperature, and wait,” Stroud says. For best results, he recommends only dehydrating one type of thing at a time, since different ingredients require varying temperatures (e.g., herbs are better dried at lower temperatures, while meats need higher temperatures for food-safety purposes).
Another reason to separate your leek tops from your potato peels is that, as Stroud explains, “aromas tend to marry.” You don’t want your chives tasting like mushrooms (or maybe, you do).
He also recommends spacing things out on your trays, since cramming them together will impede airflow, and “things might get gross instead of dried.”
How Can A Food Dehydrator Help Me Reduce Food Waste at Home?Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayWhile it might seem like a fancy restaurant thing to dehydrate, say, smoked onions to season pastrami carrots (which Stroud has done), dehydrating has its practical, waste-saving (and space-saving) applications at home, too.
“Waste minimization has always been a big part of my cooking career, and dehydrators can help not only reduce waste but also space,” Stroud says. “How often have you bought a bunch of parsley or dill for a recipe and then ended up throwing out the rest? Some people save vegetable scraps in the freezer to throw into stocks, but there are only so many scraps or so much stock a person can store unless you have a massive amount of freezer space.”
So instead of freezing bags upon bags of frozen leek tops, Stroud says to consider the dehydrator.
“You can toss some of those veggie scraps in the dehydrator and then grind them into a powder. The veggie powder can be used to fortify stocks, season meats, add flavor to sauces or dips...the list goes on and on. Best of all, powders take up a fraction of the space in your pantry, freeing up your freezer space for better things (ice cream).”
Have some tomatoes that are looking a bit sad? Save them from the compost bin by creating your very own “sun-dried” tomatoes—minus the sun.
“The best way to do this is to cut them in half and lay them cut side up on the trays, that way you don’t lose any of the juices, and they all get concentrated back into the tomato,” Stroud says. “Keep in mind some tomatoes definitely work better than others; pastier ones like Roma, San Marzano, or, my personal favorite, Canestrino tomatoes, have a lower moisture content so they dry really well.”
What Else Can I Do with a Food Dehydrator? Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayIn addition to helping you reduce food waste, there are a variety of other uses for a dehydrator in a home kitchen—which also, admittedly, reduce waste(!).
“It isn't all just powders,” says Stroud. “You can make your own fruit roll-ups or beef jerky; there's a range of different applications and textures you can achieve. And while not everything is a winner (sometimes you try something and you just get dry trash), sometimes you get something really fun and interesting. For example, dill, garlic, and bay leaves left over from fermenting dill pickles make a funky, herbaceous, and bold spice that you can use on popcorn, potato chips, or you could use to make dill pickle ranch dressing.”
In short, with a dehydrator, the options are truly endless.
Which Food Dehydrator Should You Buy?Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayIn our testing of food dehydrators, our favorites were the Samson "Silent" Dehydrator, and the larger-capacity Excalibur 9-Tray Electric Food Dehydrator, which is the brand Stroud used in the restaurant to make his many powders. You can read more about how we tested food dehydrators and how we picked our winners in our review.
FAQsHow do you clean a food dehydrator?Many food dehydrators have dishwasher-safe trays—but it’s best to check your user manual before you put anything in the dishwasher. If you find out the trays are not dishwasher-safe, the best course of action is to wash them with warm, soapy water, spray them down (if your sink has a spray nozzle), and make sure they are thoroughly dried before using.
What is a food dehydrator good for?As we mentioned, a food dehydrator is a great way to mitigate food waste. You can use it to dehydrate all manner of food scraps—leek tops, potato peels, mushroom bottoms, parsley stems—to create seasoning powders for amping up the flavor of your cooking. You can also use a food dehydrator to preserve ingredients that are on their way out (for example, you can make sundried tomatoes) or to make snacks like fruit leather or jerky.
Can you dehydrate food in an air fryer?Yes, you can dehydrate food in an air fryer. To do so, just set it on the lowest setting (some air fryers also have a dehydrate function) and let it run for a few hours. However, while you can use an air fryer to dehydrate, the results might not be as good as those from a dedicated dehydrator.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubOne of the more challenging parts about sourdough baking in the colder months is maintaining proper starter and dough temperature. Natural yeast cultures in a starter are slower to reproduce than instant or active dry yeast you can buy from the store, and consistent temperatures between 74ºF to 80ºF are necessary to allow bread to rise.
Commercial bakeries have proofing racks that allow fully enclosed temperature control, but options for home bakers are limited. There are countertop proofing boxes available, but they can be expensive and their size and shape is restrictive. The Challenger Fermentation Mat is designed to be more versatile: instead of a box, it’s a long, rectangular silicone mat with heating elements that radiate upwards, allowing more freedom for which type of proofing container you want to set on top of it. It also has a temperature control box that allows you to set a custom temperature, and when you’re done, you can roll it up for easy storage.
We evaluated the mat's performance and usability, to see whether we recommend it (or not).
The Tests Serious Eats / Jesse Raub Starter Test: We made a 5-hour levain in a glass jar with 57ºF water and 68ºF flour and set it on the Challenger Fermentation Mat set to 90ºF. We placed one temperature probe in the starter and one in the air to measure ambient temperature and recorded the results. * Dough Test: We mixed the levain into a 2-loaf batch of dough made with 54ºF water and 68ºF flour and set it in a plastic proofing box on the Challenger Fermentation Mat set to 90ºF. We placed one temperature probe in the dough and one in the air to measure ambient temperature and recorded the results. * Large Batch Test: We repeated both the starter and dough tests, this time doubling the recipe for a 4-loaf batch to see if the mat could handle a larger thermal mass. * Usability and Cleanup Tests:* We noted how simple the mat was to set up and program, as well as how easy it was to clean.
What We LearnedIt Maintained Temperatures WellDuring our testing, we found that the mat was able to maintain consistent temperatures over long periods of time, which helped both our starter and our bread dough ferment properly. It held our starter between 74ºF and 80ºF for more than four hours while the room temperature floated between 64ºF to 68ºF every 30 minutes due to home heating cycles. The mat also helped keep our dough temperature stable for three hours.
It did take a little finesse to reach our target of 78ºF, but as the dough mat says on its surface: “mat temperature is not dough temperature.” In order to get our levain and dough up to the 74ºF to 80ºF range, we had to set the mat a little higher and monitor its temperature the first time we used it.
It Took Time To Heat UpSerious Eats / Jesse RaubThe mat’s temperature consistency was stellar, but it wasn’t efficient at heating. Both our levain and bread dough began around 66ºF, and it took around two hours for the levain to hit peak temps of 80ºF while our dough took around three hours to clear 74ºF, even with the dial cranked to 100ºF. As a result, we had to extend the proofing time by 30 minutes, though this would likely be less of an issue in spring or fall when the starting water temperature is higher and the room temperature is warmer.
The Mat’s Shape Was Super Versatile The fermentation mat can even warm a sourdough starter jar that might be too tall for a proofing box.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe main advantage of this fermentation mat over other countertop proofing boxes is just how versatile it is. It’s long enough to place two medium-sized mixing bowls on it side-by-side, or even a proofing box with your starter jar next to it. Even more useful than that is its portability: because the mat can just roll up when not in use, it takes up very little storage space, and can even fit in a drawer.
It Struggled With Larger VolumesTo test the fermentation mat’s limits, we doubled our regular recipe for a 4-loaf batch of dough. Both our bigger levain and dough struggled to hit our target 74ºF to 80ºF target, forcing us to extend our proofing time for both by nearly two hours, though most people wouldn’t face this issue with standard bread recipes.
It Worked Best with Flat-Bottomed BoxesSerious Eats / Jesse RaubAlong with the Fermentation Mat, we also tested out Challenger’s Proofing Box as part of their Proofing Kit. While the mat worked well for jars, bowls, and other boxes, the Challenger Proofing Box has a completely flat bottom which gave it a lot of direct contact with the Fermentation Mat. The other plastic proofing box we tested had plastic rails on the bottom that elevated it off the counter slightly, and the heat transfer wasn’t as direct.
The VerdictThe Pros: For most home bakers, the Challenger Fermentation Mat is a great option for maintaining proper fermentation temperatures for your starter, levain, or dough. Because it’s a mat (as opposed to a box), it allows you to use whatever fermentation vessel you already own (though completely flat-bottomed boxes work best), and its ability to roll up when not in use makes it easy to store. We also found it was easy to program the desired temperature, quick to set up, and easy to wipe clean with a damp cloth if any dough were to spill over.
The Cons: The biggest drawback is that the mat can take a while to heat up, extending your proofing times, and just isn’t powerful enough for larger batches of dough. However, for most home bakers this wouldn’t be a problem.
Key Specs Dimensions: 10 x 21 inches * Wattage: 20 watts * Temperature range: 40ºF to 108ºF * Care instructions: Wipe clean with a damp cloth as needed * Price at time of publish:* $76
FAQs Is a fermentation mat or proofing box worth it?For people who live in colder areas, it’s harder to maintain the proper temperature for sourdough fermentation. A fermentation mat or a proofing box can help keep your sourdough starter and bread dough at the right temperature for the entire proofing process.
What temperature should a proofing box be?Sourdough requires gentler heat and longer proofing times than instant or active dry yeast, and the ideal temperature range is between 74ºF to 82ºF. If the temperature is too cool, the dough won’t rise in time, and if the temperature gets too warm, the fermentation will start to break down gluten strands, and the dough will collapse.
Serious Eats / Qi AiWhen was the last time you weren't too busy to make dinner? Being crunched for time seems like the general feeling these days. While preparing something delicious at the end of a long day may seem like a daunting and time-consuming task, it doesn't have to be. There are plenty of dishes—especially those that lean on seafood or pantry staples—that are full of flavor and still come together in a flash. From spicy steamed mussels with 'nduja, to a simple stovetop mac and cheese, and a Chinese-style layered omelette, these are our favorite quick dinner recipes that come together in 20 minutes or less.
Nasi Goreng (Indonesian Fried Rice)Serious Eats / Qi AiNasi goreng, Indonesia's version of fried rice, gets a sweet and savory profile from kecap manis and a big hit of umami from shrimp paste.
XO Mazemen (Broth-less Ramen With XO Sauce)Vicky WasikThis take on mazemen, or "mixed noodles," a soup-less variation on ramen, incorporates powerfully savory XO sauce to make a flavorful ramen that takes all of five minutes to prepare. Our vegetarian and bacon and egg versions are also worth trying.
Perfect Egg Fried Rice (On Whatever Gear You Have)J. Kenji López-AltThis egg fried rice recipe is designed to work with any cooking setup, whether you're lucky enough to have a true flaming-hot wok burner or are just using a nonstick skillet on an electric cooktop.
3-Ingredient Stovetop Mac and CheesePhotographs: Vicky Wasik. Video: J. Kenji López-AltThis simple mac and cheese recipe has fewer ingredients than the boxed version but comes together in the same amount of time.
Oyakodon (Japanese Chicken and Egg Rice Bowl)Serious Eats / Qi AiQuick and easy, this popular restaurant dish is easy to perfect at home with just a handful of ingredients.
Instant Ramen Fried RiceVicky WasikSure, a cup of instant noodles is a quick and easy snack, but with a little effort, you can whip up a delicious, almost-as-instant fried rice that serves two.
The Best Moules Marinières (Sailor-Style Mussels)Serious Eats / Qi AiInexpensive, elegant, and easy, these mussels are the ultimate one-pot meal.
Spicy Steamed Mussels With 'NdujaVicky WasikSpicy, funky Calabrian sausage is the perfect companion to briny, sweet, steamed mussels—and they come together in 20 minutes flat.
Stovetop 'Nduja Mac and CheeseVicky WasikGooey, spicy, meaty mac and cheese—all it takes is four pantry-friendly ingredients and 10 minutes of your time.
Cantonese Slippery Eggs with Tofu and PeasSerious Eats / Andrew ValantineIf you love egg drop soup, you’ll love its comforting, meal-worthy cousin.
Spaghetti con la Colatura di Alici (Pasta With Colatura)Vicky WasikThis simple pasta dish is like an amped-up sibling to aglio e olio flavored with Italian aged fish sauce.
Chinese-Style Layered OmeletteVicky WasikWith just eggs, salt, scallions, and soy sauce, you can make a luxurious-seeming weeknight meal in about 15 minutes.
Spaghetti Puttanesca (Spaghetti With Capers, Olives, and Anchovies)Photograph: Melissa HomSpaghetti puttanesca packs an aromatic punch thanks to garlic, anchovies, capers, and olives.
Katsudon (Japanese Chicken or Pork Cutlet and Egg Rice Bowl)J. Kenji López-AltThis Japanese comfort food classic smothers fried cutlets with seasoned dashi and lightly cooked egg.
Crispy Pan-Seared Salmon FilletsJ. Kenji López-AltExtra-crunchy skin and perfectly tender fish? Believe us, it's possible!
Teriyaki-Glazed Salmon, Cucumber, and Avocado Rice BowlsA sweet, savory, crunchy, and fresh meal for a weekday night? Rice bowls are as easy as it gets.
5-Minute Miso Glazed SalmonJ. Kenji Lopez-AltCharred, sweet and savory with a tender interior, this is about as good as salmon gets.
Debbie WeeIt's often on the coldest, gloomiest of winter's days when we're feeling too lazy to get ourselves in the kitchen, and that's where frozen soup saves the day. From classic carrot soup to minty garlic scape and a fully loaded vegan baked potato option, there's no shortage of soup recipes that can be enjoyed both now and later.
Not all soups reheat well after being frozen—noodles, rice, and starches like potatoes may end up becoming mushy—so blended options are the way to go. To cut down on prep for other recipes, you can also freeze stocks like vegetable, beef, chicken, and Japanese dashi, so you always have them on hand. Your future self with thank you!
Split Pea and Ham SoupSerious Eats / Fred HardyThis recipe is a no-fuss, deeply flavorful version of the classic, made with green split peas and smoky ham. Our pressure cooker version comes together in half the time.
Classic Butternut Squash SoupSerious Eats / Julia EstradaRoasting butternut squash gives this soup intense and balanced flavor.
Classic Creamy Carrot SoupDebbie WeeRoasted carrots, simmered carrots, and carrot juice bring forth sweetness in this simple soup.
The Best Potato-Leek SoupSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergThis easy potato-leek soup takes no shortcuts to deliver the best flavor and texture possible.
Kanuchi (Cherokee Pureed Nut Soup)Vicky WasikA rich and creamy nut soup of Cherokee origin, kanuchi has few ingredients but a world of deep nutty flavor.
Dak Juk (Korean Chicken and Rice Porridge)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWarm, comforting, and deeply satisfying, this Korean rice porridge is loaded with shredded chicken, tender grains of rice, and lots of finely minced vegetables—perfect for when you're sick, and when you're not. Rice works well here even after being frozen since the texture of the grains in this soup are meant to be a bit softer.
Roasted Sweet Potato Soup With Pistachio, Orange, and Mint SalsaVicky WasikFlavored with a hint of orange, this sweet potato soup is rich and warming.
Fully Loaded Vegan Baked Potato SoupSerious Eats / Qi AiCreamy, rich, and packed with cheesy flavor, this loaded baked potato soup is 100% vegan.
Minty Garlic Scape SoupSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis simple soup makes the most of garlic's green shoots.
Lentil Soup With Lemon Zest, Garlic, and ParsleyJ. Kenji Lopez-AltThe secret to a flavor-packed lentil soup? Gremolata: a mixture of parsley, lemon zest, and garlic. Just note you'll need to make the gremolata fresh.
Miso-Squash Soup With Sesame-Ginger ApplesVicky WasikInspired by a classic Japanese appetizer, this soup zeroes in on the nutty, earthy flavors of squash by simply simmering it in an aromatic dashi broth. While this soup will heat beautifully after being frozen, the sesame-ginger apple topping should be made fresh.
Creamy Chanterelle Mushroom SoupJ. Kenji López-AltThe key to a flavorful, luxurious cream of mushroom soup? "Construct" the cream with mushroom broth and plenty of butter.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinThough most folks are discerning when it comes to picking a recipe, sometimes it’s hard to know what the best tool for the job is. This is especially common when it comes to baking, and while the age of the yeast or the quality of cocoa powder matters, so too does the baking dish. And one common area of confusion is whether to use metal or glass.
The science of baking involves complex chemical reactions that occur when you place batter or dough in the hot environment of an oven. This is why the material of the bakeware is important and can change the outcome considerably. Here, we break down the pros and cons of using metal and glass.
First, Let’s Talk About ConductivityThe left glass pan shows how the interior center of the brownie is underbaked, making it difficult to cut. The right metal pan shows how the brownie is baked evenly throughout the pan, with clean cuts from the butter knife.Serious Eats / Irvin LinMetal and glass have different heat conductivity, which means they carry and transfer heat differently. According to A.J. Bates, professor of chemistry at Skyline College in California, metal heats up quickly, conducting heat to whatever you’re baking quickly (metal also cools down faster). He explained that glass, on the other hand, has a higher specific heat capacity, which means it takes more energy and time to heat up and retains the heat after it’s been removed from the oven.
Baking in metal means you can bake a dessert until the center is done, remove it from the oven, and not have to worry about the pan continuing to bake the edges. Glass, however, will retain the heat, and continue to bake what’s inside, resulting in either an underbaked center or an overbaked edge—or often both.
Glass and Metal React to Ingredients DifferentlyMetal and glass also react to ingredients differently. Acidic ingredients like tomatoes and citrus can react with aluminum (the most common metal used in bakeware), creating a metallic taste in your food. This is why lasagna and other casseroles with acidic ingredients are often baked in glass. The smooth slick surface of the glass is also naturally somewhat nonstick, making it easier to clean baked-on cheese and other crusty ingredients.
Consider Practical Use and StorageMetal is quite durable and can take a beating in a busy kitchen, while glass is fragile and heavy, requiring a little more care in cleaning and storage. Some glass can also suffer thermal shock, which means it can’t handle extreme temperature changes. For example, if you move a glass dish from the freezer to the oven, or from a hot oven to a cold stove, the glass can shatter. The exception to this is borosilicate glass, which is more thermal-shock resistant than other types of glass (which is why it’s often used to make microwave cookware, like this set from Anyday). However, keep in mind that most common glass bakeware is not borosilicate. Metal doesn’t have this issue, allowing you to chill a pie crust in the freezer before moving it directly to the oven to bake.
Glass can also be difficult to store since pans are often inconsistently sized, as well as heavy and thick. If you have pets or inquisitive young kids, or just don’t have a lot of storage space, opt for metal bakeware.
Attractiveness MattersThough it may seem like a small thing, a metal pan makes very neat edges.Serious Eats / Irvin LinBaked goods served directly from the dish can benefit from a handsome glass or ceramic dish. Alanna Taylor-Tobin, author of Alternative Baker and blogger at The Bojon Gourmet recommends baking cobblers, crisps, and crumbles in glass or ceramic. “I love using attractive ceramic and glass baking dishes for fruit desserts. The dish retains heat, keeping the dessert warm, and it looks nice too! So desserts like my almond flour apple crisp can go from the oven directly to the table for an easy yet dinner-party-worthy dessert,” she says.
However, if your dessert is removed from the dish before serving, like with brownies, cookies, or bars, a metal option is going to give you a more attractive final product because the edges and corners of a metal dish are often an ideal 90-degree angle, creating a perfect square or rectangle.
So, Which Bakes Best? Glass or Metal? The Answer: It Depends on What You’re BakingSerious Eats / Vicky WasikMost desserts like brownies, cookies, bars, and cakes bake best in a metal dish. The metal conducts heat evenly and efficiently, allowing the baked goods to heat and rise equally from edge to center, cooking at the same rate.
Desserts like fruit cobblers, crisps, and crumbles, as well as savory casseroles, are best made in a glass dish. The glass retains the heat better, keeping the dish warm, and the dish can go directly from the oven to the table.
One thing to note about pies and tarts: a lot of recipes and articles will tell you to bake pies in glass, and it’s true that glass has the added advantage of being transparent—you can easily see if the pie crust is done. But, if you’re an experienced baker or want your pie to have an extra flaky crust, metal is a superior option. Pie crust is flaky because there are shards of butter in between the layers of dough. When heated, the butter melts, and the water in the butter creates steam, which gives the crust its layers and flakiness. Glass does heat up faster than fancy stoneware pie pans, but metal heats up even quicker, creating an evenly browned crust with loads of flakiness. And, with metal, you can place the pie crust in the freezer to chill the dough thoroughly before moving it to the hot oven, which is riskier with a glass pie dish, since it can shatter.
Do keep in mind that pie bakers are divided about what sort of pie dish they prefer, with a lot of recipes developed with glass pie pans. If you pick metal as your pie pan, your bake time might be less and need to be adjusted.
Tips for Baking in Glass Instead of MetalSerious Eats / Irvin LinIf all you have in your household is glassware and you don’t wish to buy any metal pans, you want to adjust the time and temperature of the baking. Kristina Razon, a former Serious Eats editor and avid baker suggests dropping the temperature of the recipe by 25°F and increasing the baking time by five to 10 minutes. Keep in mind that glassware continues to retain the heat longer than metal pans, so you might want to also take the pan out of the oven slightly underdone and let the carryover heat continue to bake the dessert while it sits.
In the End, Use What Works for YouFinally, one last thing to consider: If you have favorite recipes that work with the pans that you own, you don’t need to change what you’re doing! You know your kitchen and your equipment best. Every kitchen is different, and every oven is different. If you have a favorite recipe for brownies that works perfectly with your favorite glass dish, then by all means, keep baking with it. It’s possible you’ve already adjusted your baking time, temperature, and method to accommodate for the glass material, your oven bakes at slightly lower temperatures than most ovens, or you have family members who love the fudgy, slightly undercooked inside pieces and others that fight over the crispy corner pieces.
But if you are trying a new recipe or trying to figure out why your cookie bars are always coming out hard and overdone at the edges and underdone and raw in the middle, try baking a batch using a metal pan instead of the glass one. You might find switching pans is all you need to make the recipe work.
FAQs Which is better for baking: glass or metal?For baked desserts like cakes, cookies, and brownies, metal is better. Most recipes are designed and developed for metal pans, and you’ll be able to replicate the recipe in your home if you use a similar pan. For fruit desserts like cobblers, crisps, and crumbles; desserts that have a lot of acidity like citrus; or savory dishes like casseroles, glass is probably better, as it is non-reactive and easier to clean; it also keeps food warmer longer, which is great for serving.
What’s the best way to clean glass and metal baking pans?The best way to clean a glass pan is to hand wash it with warm soapy water. Soak the pan first if there is baked-on residue; this will soften and loosen the gunk, allowing you to scrub it off more easily with a sponge. Avoid harsh scouring pads, as they can scratch the surface of the glass.
To wash metal baking pans, soak the pan first in soapy hot water if there are crumbs stuck, but usually, a sponge and hot water will remove most of the residue. Your glass or metal baking pan might also be dishwasher safe, but consult the manufacturer's cleaning and care instructions first before putting it in the dishwasher. And realize that some pans may be listed as dishwasher safe, but harsh dishwashing detergents can corrode or shorten the lifespan of the dish.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyWe love sous vide cooking—it allows you to set and forget whatever you’re making and still be guaranteed perfectly-cooked results. And a good vacuum sealer is integral to this process; if the seal isn’t tight, water can get inside and ruin dinner. Vacuum sealers are also great for food storage since they remove the air from the bag, keeping food fresher for longer. This makes them a good option for freezing foods, like ground meat, since it helps prevent freezer burn.
While we have winning picks for both sous vide machines and vacuum sealers, we were intrigued by a new chamber-style sealer offered by Anova (the maker of one of our winning vacuum sealer picks): the Anova Precision Chamber Vacuum Sealer. To test it, we used the chamber sealer for more than a month, vacuum-sealing pork loins and salmon for sous vide, and using it to vacuum-seal Chex cereal, ground turkey, and potatoes cut into fries. We also tested one of the machine’s special functions, using it to make quick dill pickles and daikon kimchi.
The TestsSerious Eats / Grace Kelly Pork Loin Test: We used the machine to vacuum seal a lightly seasoned pork loin, which we then cooked sous vide per these instructions. * Stuffed Pork Loin Test: We sealed stuffed pork loin to see if the bag could contain something messier during sealing without leaking into the chamber. * Chex Cereal Test: We sealed two cups of Chex in a bag using the normal setting and normal seal, then we sealed another two cups of Chex using the stronger setting and stronger seal. This was to examine how the machine handled vacuum sealing delicate items. * Ground Turkey Test: We used the chamber to seal one pound of ground turkey, which we then froze for two weeks to see if any ice crystals formed. * Salmon Test: We vacuum-sealed a portioned filet of salmon, noting any gaps in the seal. * French Fry Test: We sealed two cups of potatoes cut into french fries and froze them to see if ice crystals formed. * Quick Compressed Pickle Test: We used the compress feature to make quick dill pickles in a jar and daikon kimchi in a bag. * Usability Tests:* We noted how easy the machine was to use—trying various sealing settings—and wipe clean. We also tried to use a plastic bag in the machine, to see if you could get away with not using proprietary sealing bags.
What is a Chamber Vacuum Sealer, and How is It Different From a Standard Vacuum Sealer?Chamber sealers are often quite large and only used in industrial applications; they can also cost upwards of $1000. The Anova Precision Chamber Sealer is designed for the home cook to be a more bite-size and affordable offering, coming in around eight inches tall, 13.5 inches long, and 10.25 inches wide, and costing $350.
A chamber sealer works a bit differently than a standard vacuum sealer, which simply sucks the air out and seals the bag. Instead, the chamber relies on pressure; the container is pressurized (and the bag is concurrently sealed by the heated sealing bar), which removes all the air inside the chamber. Then, the pressure is released, collapsing the bag around the food. This pressurization also acts as a tool to force liquids into whatever you’re sealing. For example, the Anova Precision Chamber Sealer offers a compression/pickle function, which raises the pressure in the chamber, forcing the pickling liquid into your produce.
What We Learned It Was Easy to Use (and the Added Features Were Fun)Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe chamber sealer was easy and intuitive to use. Just plug it in, press the power switch, and use the touchscreen display panel to adjust your vacuum and seal settings (the machine offers strong seal and strong vacuum, and normal seal and normal vacuum options). It also does more than just vacuum-sealing; there are some fun functions for kitchen experimentation: infuse/extract, compress/pickle, and dry/cool. We used the compress/pickle feature to make a half-pint jar of quick dill pickle chips, as well as a bag of kimchi daikon, which both turned out quite tasty and only took three rounds of compressing to finish (which took mere minutes). It was also cool to see the pickles get stained with the pickling liquid as the liquid was forced into them. Anova offers other fun recipes using these functions, including quick gin, vanilla extract, chili oil, and more—so you can get creative.
The Vacuum-Sealing Ability Was Good, but Moist Foods Had Small Air PocketsSerious Eats / Grace KellyWhile the Chex mix and French fries were sealed pretty tight without any air pockets, we found that meats fared differently. Both pork loins (lightly seasoned and stuffed), as well as the salmon filets, had some small air pockets in places where the protein met the plastic, and while it didn’t affect sous vide cooking, it wasn’t exactly the air-tight seal we expected. We reached out to Anova about this, and the rep told us that "the lid may not be sealing properly. The easiest thing to try is to push down on the back right corner of the lid when you start a cycle. Typically that addresses it. There's some built-in play in the lid—part of the nature of building a product that can withstand such high vacuum pressure. Sometimes when shutting it, it just so happens that the back right corner hinge will bind." We gave this advice a try when sealing some bone-in chicken breasts, and it seemed to help at least a little bit, though we still did find some small air pockets. We also noticed a funny thing when we sealed ground turkey for storing in the freezer: the meat juice (sorry) was extruded out of the ground meat. And, once frozen, the fluids formed ice crystals around the meat.
Delicate Foods BrokeSerious Eats / Grace KellyWhile we don’t think people will necessarily use the chamber sealer to vacuum seal delicate cereal, we wanted to test out how gentle the process was by sealing a bag with two cups of Chex. While the air was completely sucked out of the bag and the seal was airtight, the Chex did crack once the pressure was released and the air was forced out. This happened on both settings (normal and strong), and for 30 minutes after sealing we still heard crackles and pops coming from the bags. Standard vacuum sealers often have gentle settings to help seal more fragile foods, but the chamber sealer doesn’t have this option.
The Machine Took up a Lot of Counter Space, but the Interior Was Rather SmallWhile the machine was a bit bulky for countertop storage, the interior was rather shallow—a mere four inches deep.Serious Eats / Grace KellyWe found the chamber to be a little bit large whether on the counter or in storage—it’s eight inches tall, 13.5 inches long, and 10.25 inches wide, about the size of a toaster. However, the interior was actually pretty small; you might struggle to fit, say, a large broken-down chicken inside it, since it’s a mere four inches deep.
Using Vacuum Sealer-Specific Bags Produced the Best ResultsWhen we tried to use a standard plastic storage bag to seal a piece of pork loin, we found that the machine was unable to seal the edge well. To be fair, Anova does say that while you can use a non-vacuum sealer-specific bag in the machine, it won’t seal the bag, so we recommend using their proprietary vacuum sealer bags, since these performed the best in our tests. The chamber sealer comes with 20 bags to get you started.
The VerdictThe Pros: Overall, the Anova Precision Chamber Vacuum Sealer did a decent job extruding air and sealing; we had no issues cooking the resulting sealed, bagged food with an immersion circulator and only noticed small pockets of air with moist foods, such as pork loin and salmon. It also did a great job of sealing smaller foods like Chex and uncooked french fries—no air pockets remained (though it did crush the cereal). We also thought the extra functions, like compress/pickle, offered some fun options for kitchen experimentation.
The Cons: The biggest cons for us were size and price: since it's cube-shaped, the machine takes quite a bit of countertop (and storage) space while simultaneously being rather small inside. We also don’t think its performance was much better than our winning standard vacuum sealer from Anova, which is $200 less. However, if you don’t have a vacuum sealer and you’re excited about the added features (perhaps you consider yourself an at-home molecular gastronomist of sorts), and if you have the counter and storage space, it could be a fun addition to your kitchen gadget collection.
Price at time of publish: $350.
Key Specs Weight: 23 lbs * Voltage: 120 Volts * Wattage: 1800 Watts * Exterior dimensions: 8 x 13.5 x 10.25 inches * Vacuum seal settings: Normal, strong * Other functions: Infuse/extract, compress/pickle, and dry/cool * Care: Wipe down with a damp cloth, then dry * Warranty:* 2-year limited
FAQsDid the Anova Precision Chamber Vacuum Sealer do a good job?We found that the chamber vacuum sealer sealed most items well, but struggled to remove air pockets entirely when sealing meats and moist proteins. It also didn't have any settings for delicate foods, like cereal.
How do I clean the Anova Precision Chamber Vacuum Sealer? The best way to clean the interior and exterior of the chamber vacuum sealer is to wipe it down with non-abrasive cleaning products. Just be careful to avoid getting any product on the sealing bar, and ensure that everything is properly dried.
Is the Anova Precision Chamber Vacuum Sealer worth it?If you’re looking for a vacuum sealer that has added features (like pickling, compressing, drying, and more), does a decent job sealing, and don’t mind spending a bit more money, then the Anova Precision Chamber Vacuum Sealer might be worth buying. However, we did notice that it left small air pockets when vacuum-sealing meats, and it does take up quite a bit of storage and counter space.
Does the Anova Precision Chamber Vacuum Sealer have different vacuum-seal options?Yes, the chamber sealer has a strong seal, strong vacuum, and normal seal and normal vacuum options. It also offers a few added functions, including infuse/extract, compress/pickle, and dry/cool. However, it does not offer Wet and Dry modes or gentle modes, which the Anova Precision Vacuum Sealer Pro does.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyA stand mixer is a great investment. These powerful machines can beat whipped cream as readily as they can knead dough or mix up cookies, shouldering the brunt of physical kitchen labor (and saving your wrists and arms). Our longtime top pick is the planetary-style KitchenAid 6-Quart Professional 600 Series Stand Mixer (as in, the attachments operates like the planets, rotating around a central axis). However, we were curious about another high-end stand mixer that some bread bakers swear by: the Ankarsrum Stand Mixer. This machine, from a Swedish brand, has a larger capacity than most mixers and takes an entirely different approach to mixing in that it spins the bowl rather than having a planetary setup. These are some of the reasons Andrew Janjigian, a frequent Serious Eats contributor and author of the Wordloaf newsletter, switched to the Ankarsrum. “The main reason I moved to an Ankarsrum from a planetary stand mixer is its capacity: I can fit into it nearly twice the amount of dough than my planetary could hold (around 10 pounds, versus less than seven in a 6-quart Kitchen Aid),” he says. “It can also mix at higher speeds than many planetary mixers, even when handling stiff doughs.”
Since it employs a different way of mixing, it also has particular instructions when it comes to adding ingredients; instead of placing the dry ingredients in the bowl first and adding the liquids, you strike that, and reverse it: liquids and wet ingredients go in first, then dry ingredients. For example, when making bread, you would first add water, yeast, and salt, and then add flour. But, like the KitchenAid, the Ankarsrum comes with multiple attachments, including two types of beaters, a kneading hook, a scraper, and a dough roller (as well as two bowls and a bowl lid). We received a sample of and tested this powerful machine by using it for two months, making whipped cream, cookies, cakes, and of course, bread, to see how it performed.
The TestsThe Ankarsrum whipped cream in a mere 35 seconds, and did it without making a mess.Serious Eats / Grace Kelly Cookie Test: We used one of the stand mixer’s beating attachments (the one featuring a single wire per beater) and its plastic bowl and lid to cream butter and sugar and mix thumbprint meltaway cookies. * Whipped Cream Test: We fitted the mixer with the whipping attachment and beat one cup of heavy whipping cream in the plastic bowl with the lid. * Bread Tests: We mixed and kneaded three bread recipes (buttery rolls, fruit-studded stollen, and basic white bread) using the scraping paddle, dough roller, and metal bowl. * Pound Cake Test: We mixed ingredients for a lemon pound cake in the metal bowl using the single-wire beaters. * Cleaning and Usability:* We noted how easy it was to set up and use the machine, disassemble it, and clean it.
What We LearnedThe Mixing Style Took Some Getting Used ToThe setup and mixing style took some getting used to, but once we got the hang of it, the results impressed us.Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhile a traditional-style stand mixer features a rotating head built into the top of the machine, the Ankarsrum takes a different approach to mixing: it spins the bowl. And, we admit, we were skeptical about it. But after testing multiple recipes in the stand mixer using various attachments, we found that it was a surprisingly effective method for integration—if used correctly. A big difference with this style of stand mixer is that you have to add the wet ingredients first, or else things won’t properly integrate. This took some getting used to and meant adjusting recipe instructions a little bit, but once we got the hang of it, it wasn’t a big deal. The other challenge was knowing which attachment and bowl setup to use. For example, when beating butter and sugar for cookies, we did some research and learned you should use the beaters that feature a single wire per beater rather than the more whisk-like ones, which are better for whipping. We also found that using the clear bowl was nice for whipping cream and beating butter since you could clearly (no pun intended) see what stage in the process you were at.
The Dough Roller and Scraper Were Very Effective at KneadingSerious Eats / Grace KellyWhen we first saw the dough roller, we were very confused; how could a rounded attachment with grooves knead bread as well as a dough hook? But then we got started kneading and our doubts vanished; it excelled at kneading stickier doughs as well as hardier ones, with beautiful baked results. To set the mixer up for kneading, you pull up the pin at the end of the arm, place the roller underneath, then let the pin slide down into the roller. Then, you attach the scraper to the bowl by slotting it into one of the holes to the left of the arm. To get the machine started, turn the knob on the left with a quick twist, or set the timer for longer kneads; to raise or lower the speed, adjust the knob on the right. As you begin to mix, the scraper ensures that ingredients fall back into the center of the bowl, while the roller integrates and kneads. An important aspect of this setup is that the arm holding the roller can be adjusted so it’s closer to the inner part or outer part of the bowl. This took some getting used to, but in the end, we appreciated the control it gave us over the kneading process. It also prevented the dreaded dry ingredient pileup at the bottom of the bowl that can happen with other stand mixers.
The Plastic Bowl and Lid Were Great for Messy JobsSerious Eats / Grace KellyWhen it came to creaming butter and whipping cream, the lid and plastic bowl combo was a winner. The translucent plastic bowl helped us to gauge where ingredients were in the beating process (there was no chance of accidentally overbeating the whipped cream), and the lid helped contain the inevitable splatter of beating at high speeds. Not to mention they produced perfect results in a short amount of time.
The Verdict: The Ankarsrum Stand Mixer is a Powerful, Versatile MachineWhile the Ankarsrum is known to excel at kneading dough for bread, we found it was actually quite good at a variety of mixing tasks; it easily creamed butter and sugar, thoroughly mixed poundcake batter, and took a mere 35 seconds (!!) to whip cream into stiff peaks. Not to mention its ability to knead both sticky and stiff bread dough with ease (we also liked its wide bowl which was easy to get a spatula or spoon into; no clunky head impeded access). That said, it is quite expensive, so consider your use-case of a stand mixer—if you’re a frequent bread maker, then the Ankarsrum might be a good fit. And overall, if you are patient and willing to learn (and don’t mind watching a few Youtube explainers along the way), we think this machine is worth the learning curve (and price tag).
Price at time of publish: $750.
Key Specs Weight: 28 lbs * Voltage: 120 Volts * Wattage: 600 Watts * Dimensions: 18.5 x 18 inches * Capacity: 7 liters (30 cups) * Attachments and bowls included: Dough roller, scraper, kneading hook, two single-wire beaters, two multi-wire beaters, plastic bowl, lid, metal bowl * Care: Attachments and bowls are dishwasher-safe; to clean the exterior of the machine, wipe down with a damp rag before drying. * Warranty:* The mixer has a 7-year factory warranty which covers the machine (though it excludes the bowl and accessories)
FAQsIs the Ankarsrum stand mixer worth buying?If you don’t mind taking the time to get to know how the machine works, and if you’re the type who likes to whip up a loaf of sourdough on a Tuesday, the Ankarsrum could be a worthy investment. The powerful motors excelled at kneading both stiff and sticky doughs, and the other attachments performed quite well, too (we were particularly impressed with the 35 seconds it took to make perfect whipped cream). The only downside is it’s quite expensive—about $200 more than the KitchenAid 6 Qt. Professional 600 Series Bowl-Lift Stand Mixer—and it takes more legwork to understand how it works.
How is the Ankarsrum stand mixer different from a KitchenAid stand mixer?While the KitchenAid has its motor in its head which spins the attachment, the Ankarsrum’s motor is in the base and spins the bowl. The kneading style is quite different, too. The Ankarsrum features a dough roller, which kneads the dough in a style more akin to hand kneading, though it does also come with a standard dough hook.
What can I make in the Ankarsrum stand mixer?The Ankarsrum stand mixer is great for kneading bread since it sports a powerful motor that can tackle all manner of dough. We also found its other attachments (such as the beaters) quite effective at beating butter and whipping cream, making it great for all manner of baking projects, including cookies, cakes, and pavlovas or meringues.
How do I clean the Ankarsrum stand mixer? The metal bowl, plastic bowl, and attachments are all dishwasher-safe. To clean the machine itself, use a damp rag to wipe it down before drying it.
Vicky WasikRemember when you bought that bag of cake flour that one time, for that one recipe? And how it turned out great? But then you never found another use for that bag of cake flour again? Except for making the same recipe? Do you see where we're going here?
Cake flour has a lower protein content, which helps give baked goods a soft, fluffy texture, and can be used for a number of baking applications. To help you use up that lingering bag of specialized flour and diversify your arsenal of sweets, we've put together 10 recipes—from all kinds of cake to pancakes and alfajores—that lean on cake flour.
Effortless Angel Food CakePhotograph and video: Vicky WasikDelicate, uber-fluffy angel food cake is one of the easiest recipes you can bake. We also have variations that incorporate maple or toasted sugar.
Lofthouse-Style Frosted Sugar CookiesPhotograph: Vicky Wasik. Video: Serious Eats Video.These homemade Lofthouse-style cookies are thick and chubby and unrepentantly sweet.
White Cake With Brown Butter and Toasted SugarVicky WasikThis is not a traditional "white" cake by any stretch: Brown butter and toasted sugar cake boldly amplify its vanilla flavor.
Double-Strawberry CakeVicky WasikStrawberry in two forms infuses this layer cake with beautiful color and natural flavor.
Blackberry Cake With Cream Cheese FrostingThis simple cake's gorgeous color comes from fresh blackberry purée, which also tenderizes the cake and helps it rise.
Pistachio CakeVicky Wasik.Using good-quality pistachio oil in an olive oil cake recipe makes for a quick and easy dessert that's brimming with pistachio aroma and flavor.
Pumpkin CakeVicky WasikMade in the style of a yellow layer cake, this rich and moist pumpkin cake uses squash purée and autumnal spices to evoke the classic flavors of pumpkin pie.
Baileys Irish Cream PancakesYvonne RupertiThese fluffy, tender, and boozy pancakes give real meaning to "top o' the mornin to ya."
Alfajores de Chocolate (Argentine Chocolate-Dulce de Leche Sandwich Cookies)This sandwich cookie has a subtle chocolate flavor, an essence of citrus zest and almond, a cake-like texture, dulce de leche filling, and a chocolate coating.
Light and Tender Chinese Lotus Seed BunsShao Z.Fluffy and sweet, lotus seed buns are a popular treat at Chinese bakeries.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyA mandoline (not to be confused with the instrument of a similar name) is one of those kitchen tools that home cooks sometimes avoid. They’re sharp and scary, and who really needs to slice up paper-thin pieces of radish to decorate a plate of crudo at home? Leave it to the chefs, you might think. But a good mandoline does have its practical at-home uses, too: slicing cucumbers or julienning carrots for salad; shaving thin pieces of potato for gratin; slicing radishes for tea sandwiches; or cutting up zucchini for a provincial tian.
In past testing, we focused on mandolines under $50(give or take a few bucks). This time, we expanded the lineup to see if the mandolines selling for higher prices were any better. We reviewed a selection of eight mandolines, ranging from $19 to $113, and included handheld models as well as those with stands. We sliced potatoes, lemons, and tomatoes (and an extraneous cucumber because, why not?) to find a mandoline that was sharp, easy to use, and a cinch to clean.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Best Overall Mandoline: OXO Good Grips V-Blade Mandoline SlicerThis was our winner in our previous testing, and it's stood the test of time. It cleanly and effortlessly sliced (almost) everything, and we never felt like we’d cut ourselves using it. The only time it struggled a little bit was with slicing potatoes into french fries, but it still produced perfect batons.
The Best Safety Mandoline: Dash Safe Slice MandolineThis safety mandoline looked like quite the complicated contraption, but it was actually easy to use (even if it did kind of work like a guillotine!). We had no issues slicing tomatoes, lemons, and potatoes into paper-thin slices—and we felt safe doing so. It also did a solid job of slicing potatoes for fries, though they were a bit stumpy.
The Best Handheld Mandoline: Microplane Adjustable V-Blade Mandoline SlicerThis was a sharp, no-frills mandoline that got the job done, easily slicing potatoes, tomatoes, and lemons. And, if you need to julienne produce into thin matchsticks, it does that, and it does it well.
The TestsSerious Eats / Grace Kelly Slice Potato Test: We sliced Yukon gold potatoes into thin, medium, and thick slices using each mandoline (half the time we used a cut-resistant glove, and the other half we used the mandolines’ hand guards if they had them). If the mandolines were scary to use (read: the potatoes got stuck on the blade) during this test, we discounted them from further testing. * Slice Tomato Test: Since tomatoes are tricky to slice thinly with a knife, we wanted to see how the mandolines fared when slicing them into thin rounds. We only used mandolines that made it through the first round of testing. * Slice Lemon Test (Winners-Only): We used each of our favorite mandolines to thinly slice lemons into rounds. * Cutting French Fries Test (Winners-Only): After swapping out the blades or turning the adjustment knob to the thick julienne setting on our favorite mandolines, we used them to slice up potatoes into french fries. * Cleaning and Usability Tests:* We examined how easy each mandoline was to assemble (including switching out blades) and use, as well as if it was difficult to clean. We also washed applicable mandolines in the dishwasher and noted any damage.
What We Learned A Sharp Blade Was KeyDull blades, like those on the OXO Chef's SteeL Mandoline 2.0, tore at potatoes and created ragged cuts.Serious Eats / Grace KellyAs with a sharp knife, a sharp mandoline blade made cutting foods effortless, with no food catching on the blade edge. This was also true for cutting french fries, which adds vertical blades to the mix (i.e. more things for your food to catch and get stuck on). What was scary was when whatever food we were trying to slice (mostly hard foods, like potatoes) got stuck on the blade—this puts you in a dangerous situation where you have to decide whether to continue to push the food through, or try to wiggle it back up out of the blade. We had this issue with half of the mandolines, namely the OXO Handheld Mandoline Slicer, OXO Chef's SteeL Mandoline 2.0, OXO Good Grips Chef’s Mandoline Slicer 2.0, and Börner V Power Mandoline. Since they felt unsafe to use—and also produced raggedly cut potatoes—we disqualified them from further testing.
We Liked Mandolines with Minimal PartsWhile this wasn’t a dealbreaker, two of our winners—the OXO Good Grips V-Blade Mandoline Slicer and Dash Safe Slice Mandoline—had lots of parts and were a tad tricky to reassemble after dismantling for cleaning. The OXO V-Blade, while a great mandoline, proved particularly puzzling; we had issues reattaching the multiple parts, and the user manual wasn’t helpful (we wound up watching a video on YouTube to figure it out). The Dash mandoline was easier to assemble but also had multiple parts, including a tube where you place your food, a dish where cut foods fell into, and an insert to push food against the blade. On the other hand, our favorite handheld pick from Microplane was uber simple to assemble; for example, to switch to a julienne setting, you just flip the straight-edged blade over to the julienne side and slot it in.
Folding Stands Were a Nice FeatureFolding stands made mandolines even more versatile, allowing us to use them on cutting boards as well as placed over a bowl.Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe OXO V-Blade Mandoline featured a stand that swung out, so you could place the mandoline over a bowl or on a cutting board. We tended to prefer mandolines with stands since it made it easier to focus on evenly slicing your ingredients, though we did find the handheld offering from Microplane (which was sans stand) still relatively comfortable to hold while using, thanks to its grippy handle.
Clearly Marked Measurements Were HelpfulWhile being able to make micro-adjustments on the Benriner was useful, we didn’t really know what we were getting with each turn of the knob. Instead, we preferred mandolines with clearly marked measurements or markers, which gave us a better idea of how thick the results would be without wasting food. Our winner, the OXO V-blade, had clearly marked lock, unlock, 1/16" (1.5mm), 1/8" (3mm), 3/16" (4mm), and 1/4" (5mm) markings, making it easy to know what results we'd get. While the Dash didn’t have measurements on the adjusting knob, it did feature numbers (one to eight) that gave you a general idea of thickness, with one being the thinnest and eight the thickest.
Cutting Fries Was ChallengingWhen it came to slicing fries, results were all over the place. Some were too thin, others were ragged, and only two mandolines sliced near-perfect fries.Serious Eats / Grace KellyOur favorite mandolines made slicing easy, but cutting potatoes into fries was a little more challenging. While our winner from OXO cut perfectly proportioned fries, we did struggle a little bit to push the spuds through the vertical blades. The Dash cut fries quite easily, though they were a little bit on the thick and short side since the chute where you place the potatoes was small, and we had to trim the potatoes to fit. The Microplane created more of a shoe-string fry cut, which wasn't what we were looking for.
While we avoided making fries with mandolines knocked out during the first round of testing, we were curious and tried an errant go at cutting fries with theOXO Chef’s SteeL Mandoline 2.0 and Benriner—both were disappointing. The potatoes immediately got stuck on the vertical blades of both mandolines, making it dangerous to push the spuds through, so we had to remove the potatoes without finishing slicing them.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a MandolineSerious Eats / Grace KellyOur favorite mandolines were sharp, deftly slicing hardy and soft ingredients. They also were easy to adjust, with clear markers indicating thickness. Finally, while we liked mandolines that were simple to assemble and clean, this wasn’t a dealbreaker.
The Best Overall Mandoline: OXO Good Grips V-Blade Mandoline SlicerWhat we liked: This was a very sharp mandoline that cut potatoes, tomatoes, and lemons cleanly and efficiently—there was no resistance when slicing. While we did face more resistance when cutting fries, the results were the perfect thickness and had nice, clean edges. We also liked the optional fold-out stand, which made it easy to prop the mandoline up on a cutting board or over a bowl.
What we didn’t like: The biggest peeve we had with this mandoline was that it was difficult to put together after taking it apart for cleaning; for example, to slot the blade in, you have to handle it uncomfortably close to the end of its blade. We also found it slightly difficult to cut french fries, though the results were near-perfect.
Price at time of publish: $46.
Key Specs * Thickness settings: 4 * Blade style: V-blade * Accessories/Features: Fold-out stand, handguard * Dimensions: 15.25 inches long; 3.13-inch-wide blade section; 1.13 inches thick * Care instructions: Hand-wash
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Best Safety Mandoline: Dash Safe Slice MandolineWhat we liked: This mandoline had a guillotine-like setup which we were skeptical of at first, but we were surprised with how well it worked. To use it, place your food into the chute, press the insert against it, and pump the white handle attached to the blade downwards to slice. It was easy to use, and there was no chance of cutting yourself, not to mention every slice (even the thinnest) was perfectly even. It also did a surprisingly good job of slicing fries (though they were just a hair thicker than desired).
What we didn’t like: The chute and cutting areas are quite small, so you have to cut food down to fit it inside, which makes for some odd-shaped results. And while they provide a little brush for you to clean your blade, we still found it slightly difficult to clean all the nooks and crannies.
Price at time of publish: $50.
Key Specs: * Thickness Settings: 8 * Blade Style: Angled * Accessories/Features: Fold-out stand * Dimensions: 12 inches long; 3-inch wide blade section; 1.75 inches thick * Care instructions: Hand-wash
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Best Handheld Mandoline: Microplane Adjustable V-Blade Mandoline SlicerWhat we liked: This handheld blade was sharp, sturdy, and shaved consistent results. It’s a great option for someone who might not need a whole mandoline getup and just wants to thinly slice a few things now and then.
What we didn’t like: The thickest setting isn’t very thick, meaning if you want to use this mandoline to make french fries, you’ll get shoestring fries. The adjustment knob is also unmarked, so you’re more in the dark on what thickness your results will be.
Price at time of publish: $40.
Key Specs: * Thickness settings: NA (continuously adjustable) * Blade style: V-blade * Accessories/Features: Handguard * Dimensions: 14.25 inches long; 3.8-inch wide blade section; 0.8 inches thick * Care instructions: Dishwasher-safe (though we recommend hand-washing anything with a blade)
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Competition* OXO Good Grips Handheld Mandoline Slicer:While this handheld mandoline cut cleanly and without any resistance, the bottom plastic part wasn’t flush with the bottom of the blade. So, every time we sliced, whatever we were slicing hit that ridge. * Benriner Mandoline Slicer:While this was a fantastic mandoline for cutting paper-thin slices of, well, anything, it wasn’t easy to adjust; sometimes the plastic part that moves up and down got stuck. It also did terribly when trying to cut potatoes into fries—the potato got stuck, and the resulting fries had frayed edges. * OXO SteeL Chef's Mandoline 2.0:This pricey mandoline performed poorly, and it took a lot of effort (and nerves of steel) to push a potato fully through the blade. The same thing happened when we gave a go at making fries with it. * Börner V Power Mandoline:This was a clunky mandoline that couldn’t cut potatoes without them getting stuck on the blade. * OXO Good Grips Chef’s Mandoline Slicer 2.0:Almost identical to the OXO Chef’s SteeL Mandoline, this one performed just as badly; it was scary to use, and potatoes got stuck on the blade.
FAQsCan you sharpen the blades on a mandoline?Some of the mandolines we tested do offer the option of sharpening their blades, namely the Benriner. If you have this mandoline and are interested in sharpening the blades, we recommend getting it done by a professional sharpener. Our winning offering from OXO doesn’t offer the option to sharpen its blades, but you can buy replacements.
What is a mandoline good for?Mandolines make slicing fast and accurate, and they’re great for keeping your cuts consistent. We like using them to slice up vegetables for salads, fruits for desserts (think thinly sliced apples for invisible apple cake), and eggplants for eggplant parm. Not to mention they are great for slicing up potatoes to make homemade potato chips or potato gratin.
What is the best mandoline?Our favorite mandoline was the OXO Good Grips V-Blade Mandoline Slicer, which was sharp, easy to use, and consistent (it also did a great job slicing potatoes into fries). We also liked the Dash Safe Slice Mandoline, which kept our hand far away from the blade while still producing consistent slices, and the handheld, no-frills Microplane Adjustable V-Blade Mandoline Slicer.
What is the safest way to use a mandoline?If you’re new to using a mandoline, we recommend investing in a cut-resistant glove—it can’t hurt to be extra safe as you learn. Another option for safe cutting is using the guard that often accompanies a mandoline, though we often found them a bit clunky. During our testing, we also found that a sharp blade makes slicing less dangerous—dull blades caused foods to get stuck, which meant we had to apply more pressure to push food through the blade, increasing the chance of our hand slipping and cutting ourselves.
What is the best way to clean a mandoline?Most of the mandolines we tested were not dishwasher-safe, and we recommend careful hand washing (you don’t want to cut yourself!) with warm, soapy water before drying. If your mandoline is dishwasher-safe, you can go that route, though we recommend washing any parts with blades by hand to ensure their longevity.
Serious Eats / Chloe JeongPresident’s Day is here, with all its fun celebrations—okay, fine, it’s one of the quieter holidays, but we’ll take a day off of work in February! But while the festivities might be demur, there are some deals on kitchen gear that are worth getting excited about.
Whether you’re gearing up for summer (we know we’re already dreaming about pizza ovens and pellet smokers) or just browsing for a new kitchen gadget, we rounded up some of the best sales on our favorite reviewed equipment.
YOSUKATA Carbon Steel Wok PanNormally $70, Now $60
If you haven’t bought a wok yet, now is the time: one of our favorite pre-seasoned woks is 14% off. This flat-bottomed pan is compatible with all stovetops (including induction). It’s also heat-responsive, and we particularly liked its helper handle.
Serious Eats / Tim ChinAnova Culinary AN500-US00 Sous Vide Precision CookerNormally $220, Now $140
This was one of our favorite sous vide cookers because of its onboard display, which made it easy to program (and it also has Wi-Fi control if you’re into smart tech/app-enabled things). After all, no one wants the internet to cut out and ruin dinner! It also just performed really well and kept water bath temperatures ultra-stable (essential for sous vide), and the adjustable clamp fits on a number of different vessels.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezLodge 10-1/4-Inch Pre-Seasoned SkilletNormally $34, Now $20
A cast iron skillet can last a lifetime, and this one from Lodge is no exception—it’s durable, sears nicely, is easy to season, and it’s made in the USA. And after reviewing 22 cast iron skillets, it’s our top pick. Oh, and it’s $14 off an already affordable price—what’s not to love?
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikOoni Koda 16 Gas Pizza OvenNormally $800, Now $595
As we mentioned, we are already dreaming of warmer days and backyard cooking—and we have big plans with this pizza oven from Ooni. Because it heats up fast and can hit a searing 900°F, it’s great for baking Neapolitan pies, and you can even use it to char vegetables and cook meats. And, since it’s gas-powered, you can just hook up the propane tank and get cooking. We particularly like its larger opening, too, which is suitable for up to 16-inch pies.
Serious Eats / Stacy K. Allen Instant Vortex Plus 6-Quart Air FryerNormally $160, Now $130
We at Serious Eats really like air fryers (surprise!); their smaller capacity paired with a powerful fan makes for ultra-crispy results. And our winning air fryer from Instant is $30 off—the perfect incentive to invest in one. In our tests, it cooked the fastest and had handy usability features, like a control dial and the ability to adjust the temperature in 5-degree increments (which is actually not super common for air fryers).
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmVitamix 5200 BlenderNormally $480, Now $389
We’ve said it once (okay, more than once), and we’ll say it again: this is the best blender out there. It crushes, purees, and pulverizes without a hitch, its powerful motor tackling the toughest of ingredients with speed and efficiency. And at the moment, it’s $91 off the black version.
Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesMueller Vacuum SealerNormally $70, Now $50
This budget-friendly vacuum sealer aced our tests; it sealed nice and tight, and we had no issues with water permeation when we used it to cook sous vide. Plus, it’s lighter than most vacuum sealers, and tucks away nicely, making storage easy. And now it’s $17 off, making a sweet deal even sweeter.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayVitamix Immersion BlenderNormally $150, Now $125
A fantastic immersion blender, this offering from Vitamix is incredibly powerful. Our review outlines all the ways it impressed us, including how its multiple speed settings allowed it to ace tasks both tough and delicate, as well as how comfortable it was to hold. Though it’s not on sale, we also really like this stick blender’s handy storage case.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubInstant Pot Pro 10-in-1 Pressure CookerNormally $170, Now $130
A good pressure cooker (a.k.a multi-cooker) can speed up your kitchen routine; need a pot of dried beans hydrated yesterday? Throw them in the Instant Pot and you’ll be good to go in some 30 minutes. And now our winner from Instant Pot is on sale for $40 off, and it’s worth considering. In our tests, it browned well, cooked fast, and was easy to use with features like a steam release switch and handles on its cooking pot.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikLodge Cast Iron Reversible Grill/GriddleNormally $80, Now $50
A stovetop griddle makes mornings a little more exciting—you can wake up your family to the smell of bacon sizzling away, or to the sound of flapjacks flipping. Put a pot of coffee on, and you might feel like you’re in a diner. And our winning stovetop griddle is currently $30 off, meaning this is an achievable feat. It’s made from cast iron and will, therefore, last forever with proper care and seasoning.
Messermeister Avanta Steak KnivesNormally $89, Now $70
A good steak knife not only slices through all manner of cuts easily, but it also looks good doing it. During our review of steak knives, we came to love this set of four knives from Messermeister—they were sturdy, sharp, and eye-catching, and they won’t break the bank.
Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik All-Clad Stainless Steel Immersion BlenderNormally $170, $120
This is another powerful immersion blender that aced our tests and is a longtime Serious Eats favorite; it whipped up creamy mayo, pureed soup until silky smooth, and even crushed ice (and that’s pretty dang impressive). And it’s currently on sale for nearly 30% off.
Serious Eats / Emily DrydenOXO Brew Compact Cold Brew Coffee MakerNormally $35, Now $28
If you run on cold brew, this is the cold brew coffee maker for you. It won our tests, impressing us with its simplicity and killer cuppa. It's also very compact and easy to store and comes with a cork lid. It’s currently 21% off.
Ashley RodriguezESPRO P3 French PressNormally $65, Now $40
This French press produced the cleanest cup of coffee of the presses we tested. Part of the reason for this is that it’s a coffee tinkerer’s delight: because it comes with a two-layer mesh cage, you can play around with different grind sizes until you’ve perfected the perfect cup. And now it’s on sale for $25 off.
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezYummy Kitchenware 9-Inch Kitchen Fine Mesh StrainerNormally $20, Now $16
A fine mesh strainer is a versatile piece of kitchen gear that we can’t do without—it’s indispensable for straining pasta and blanched vegetables, rinsing rice, and cleaning up stock. Our winning budget-friendly strainer is great for these tasks and more, and it’s currently 20% off.
Serious Eats / Eric KingRubbermaid Brilliance Leak-Proof Food Storage ContainersNormally $35, Now $20
While food storage containers might be the bain of your existence (we still haven’t figured out a great way to store them!), a good set can change your life. Okay, that’s dramatic, but seriously, a good set of containers that keeps food fresh and is easy to stack is a thing of beauty. Enter our winning set from Rubbermaid: they come in plastic or glass, are easy to open and close, are leakproof, and stack easily. And—even better—they’re a whopping 43% off at the moment.
Serious Eats / Eric KingFAQsWhen is President's Day 2023?President's Day in 2023 is on Monday, February 20. Many brands and online retailers have sales that day (and some are starting the week before, as well).
Are there any good President's Day deals?We think there are some good deals on President's Day. For instance, there are sales on our favorite pre-seasoned wok (Yosukata Carbon Steel Wok Pan) and one of our favorite sous vide immersion circulators from Anova. We are also eyeing a sale on the Vitamix 5200 blender, which has been a perennial Serious Eats favorite.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubImmersion blenders are handy for soups, salad dressing, and even smoothies, and their lightweight, versatile nature makes them easy to incorporate into daily cooking without having to pull a full-sized appliance out of the cabinet. While they might not be able to fully replace a food processor or full-size blender, the best immersion blenders are powerful enough to tackle many tough tasks.
We reviewed immersion blenders in November of 2017, but didn't include the Vitamix Immersion Blender. However, Vitamix is a notable brand when it comes to blending and we've even received a handful of reader emails asking our opinion on it, so we decided to test it. We were thoroughly impressed with how powerful it was and how simple it was to use. You can now find it as a new winner in our immersion blender review.
The TestsSerious Eats / Jesse Raub Puréeing Soup Test: We blended 300 grams of a fibrous celery soup and passed it through a fine mesh strainer, measuring out how many solids were left behind. * Pureeing Chickpeas Test: We blended a 15-ounce can of chickpeas with 1/3 cup of water and five drops of blue food dye to see how quickly the dye would be fully incorporated. * Ice-Crushing Test: We used the immersion blender to crush one pint of ice with one cup of water. * Usability and Cleanup Tests:* We incorporated it into daily cooking, like making caesar salad dressing and tahini sauce with whole garlic cloves, evaluating how simple it was to set up, comfortable it was to hold, and easy it was to clean.
What We LearnedIt Was Powerful…The blended celery soup almost passed entirely through the strainer.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhen we first started testing this immersion blender, we were caught off guard by just how powerful it was. When blending celery soup on the highest setting, it easily puréed almost all solids, leaving behind less than three grams of matter in the strainer from 300 grams of soup. It also blended the chickpeas into a smooth, uniformly blue paste in around 14 seconds, tying for the fastest time in our testing. It blitzed whole cloves of garlic into dressing and sauce in just a few seconds, and easily blended chunky soups into smooth ones.
…Sometimes Too PowerfulThere were issues with its power, however. When blending the celery soup in batches, it created such a deep vortex that the soup would get sucked under the level of the blade guard, sometimes spitting and sputtering out of the top of a deli quart container. We also found that instead of crushing ice right away, it shaved it into a dense snow that blocked the blades. While it was too powerful to make smaller savings of salad dressings or mayo (admittedly, a more niche use), it worked well when we increased the batch size.
Variable Speed Helped A LotVariable settings made it easy to find the right power level for different foods.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubOne of the ways to balance this power was to utilize the Vitamix’s five variable speeds. With multiple settings, it was easy to match the power to the container size. And it was simple to click the speed adjustment button and find exactly the right one for the job. Speeds one and two were great for mayo, speeds there and four blended the chickpeas smoothly, and the top speed was ideal for puréeing soup.
The Blade and Blade Guard Were UniqueSerious Eats / Jesse raubThe Vitamix immersion blender has an “X” shaped blade with four edges, which were sharpened finer than other models we’ve tested. Though the four cutting edges weren’t quite knife-sharp, they cut through tougher fibers in the celery soup, blending it fully smooth. The Vitamix’s blade guard was wide and had big vent holes that helped create a deep, powerful vortex without clogging. What was truly unique, however, was the crown of the blade guard. With its plastic edges, this immersion blender can be used directly in the pan without worrying about scraping against nonstick or chipping enamel.
It Was Extremely Comfortable to HoldEven though it was heavy, the grip was nicely molded to fit securely in your hand, with a silicone covering for extra grip and comfort. The handle also directly aligned your pointer finger with the power button and your middle finger with the speed settings, allowing you to easily switch between speeds while blending. This was key for when a vortex grew rowdy and needed to be toned down, or when extra blending power was necessary for powering through a task.
The VerdictPros: This is a truly powerful immersion blender that is up for tasks tough and gentle, thanks to its multiple speed settings. It’s comfortable to hold, with a tapered grip that orients your fingers on the speed button and power button, and the blending arm clicks securely onto the handle with a simple twist, making it easy to attach and remove. We really appreciated this function as a safety measure.We were able to keep the blade submerged in the blending container, click the power on, blend, and twist the blade head off so the blades were never out in the air while the handle was plugged in. It was also easy to clean around the blades thanks to its wide blade guard.
Cons: The biggest downside for this immersion blender is what makes it special: its power. Because it can create such a deep vortex, it’s not a great option for smaller servings, since it'll splatter. It’s also on the higher end of the price spectrum, and accessories are sold separately.
Who it's best for: If you have the budget, this is a great immersion blender that gets close to replacing a full blender. Cheaper than its full-sized siblings while taking up less space, it’s an excellent option for people with smaller kitchens, or those with a food processor that don’t want a second, full-sized appliance.
Key Specs Dimensions: 3 x 8 x 3 inches * Weight: 2.5 pounds * Material: Stainless steel, plastic * Wattage: 625 watts * Speeds: 5 * Attachments: None * Care instructions: Hand wash-only * Warranty info: 3-year full warranty * Price at time of publish:* $125
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubFAQsDoes Vitamix make an immersion blender?Aside from making many full-sized blenders that we love, Vitamix makes an immersion blender as well. It has five different speeds, a powerful, 625-watt motor, and a suite of accessories sold separately. After testing it, we highly recommend it.
Is the Vitamix immersion blender made in the USA?Every Vitamix product is engineered and assembled in Ohio, including the immersion blender, though some parts, like blender motors, are manufactured in China. The company does not publicly disclose where every part is made
Will an immersion blender scratch my pan? Most immersion blenders have a stainless steel blade guard that could scratch a pan or chip away at an enamel or nonstick coating, but the blade guard on the Vitamix immersion blender is plastic, making it more versatile for daily kitchen use in a number of different containers.
What’s the best way to clean an immersion blender?The best way to clean an immersion blender is to remove the blending arm and wash it with soap and warm water, making sure to remove any food particles from the blades while cautiously scrubbing around them. The body of the immersion blender can be wiped down with a damp cloth, but should never be submerged in water.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishI spent my childhood years among three tables: my family's kitchen table in Jerusalem, and each of my two grandmothers' tables, one in a village in the north of Palestine and the other in a village closer to the center. The food—even the religion, dialects, and conversations—I experienced at each was different. Everything was delicious, prepared with love, and referred to as “our food.” To this day, I’m still trying to recreate those flavors from memory. But not once while living at home did I really mull on the idea of these foods collectively making up a Palestinian cuisine. It was only when I left home at 17 to start college in the States that I began to grasp the undeniable connection of food to national identity, and the intricacies associated with defining it.
Many years, countries, degrees, children, and a career switch later, I am starting to understand why, as elusive as the notion of a national cuisine may be, it’s still an absolutely vital one. This importance becomes even more pronounced when one is away from their homeland, as many of us here in the US are, and especially when the national identity and connection to that homeland is threatened, as it is for most Palestinians.
Palestinians: A Primer on the People That Call This Cuisine Their OwnAs of 2019 there were an estimated 13.3 million Palestinians in the world, 5.3 million of which are refugees. Two of the largest concentrations of these refugees outside the Arab world are in Chile and the US. It’s been almost 75 years—three quarters of a century—since our original displacement during the 1948 War, and many Palestinian descendants still have never set foot in our homeland. Some may no longer be familiar with the language, customs, music, and traditions, but if there is one thing that has survived decades of expatriation, it is our food. Many Palestinians I know who cannot speak a word of Arabic can name every dish on a Palestinian sofra (a table laden with food), and their dining tables regularly include many of the classic dishes, from maqlubeh and dawali to hashweh and the quintessential zeit (olive oil) and za’atar.
After years of writing and working to preserve these dishes and their history for future generations, and after countless conversations with Palestinians across the globe, I have come to a quiet but powerful realization: There is no singular Palestinian cuisine. Palestinian food spans our entire geography, from the mountains of the Galilee to the valleys of the south, from the coast of Yaffa all the way to the West Bank. It is scattered across the globe and built from memories of a time when most of us lived on the same land. It is the grains of freekeh and ever-present bowl of za’atar as much as the connection these dishes provide to a nation out of reach.
So when I was tasked with selecting a collection of essential recipes to introduce Palestinian cuisine, I balked. How do you pack such a rich and diverse history into so few dishes? What’s more, many of the dishes we consider definitive or important to our cuisine—like hummus, falafel, tabouleh, and kubbeh—are shared across the countries of the Levant. So how do I choose these dishes, let alone define a national cuisine?
What Is National Cuisine?In the context of history, all cuisine is a byproduct of evolution and diffusion and predates the modern nation-state. Think of the Italian tomato, which only made its way to Europe in the 16th century, or the ubiquitous chiles used in Thai and Indian cuisines that arrived in the New World just a few centuries ago. Culinary integration has been visible throughout—and essential to—our history. An honest account of any cuisine admits and celebrates the positive angles of this history, recognizing that no food culture is stagnant, but rather a dynamic force that changes through circumstance, integrates with others, and evolves with the times. This, however, doesn’t negate the fact that some dishes have come to be made a specific way by certain people or that some foods carry significance for national groups.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishYet even those dishes can generate much debate depending on the region, town, or family you come from. I have witnessed arguments so heated you would think they were about bringing peace to the Middle East, only to realize it was two cooks discussing the right way to prepare a certain dish. Is mlukhiyeh made with whole jute mallow leaf or ground? Can mansaf be made with chicken or only lamb? Does adding chickpeas or garlic to qidreh make it inauthentic? Can you include tomato paste when cooking grape leaves, or should you just use lemon? Which of the 1001 ways to make maqlubeh is the right one? And let’s not get started with the spices for each of these dishes.
An Intro to Palestinian Cooking: Why These Particular Dishes?Choosing a small number of dishes to capture a cuisine may be a useful primer into that culture, but it’s an incomplete one at best. Choosing one dish means you’ve omitted another, and missing entirely from this list are the desserts, drinks, spreads, and countless salads and stews that adorn Palestinian tables across the globe. But there are specific reasons why I chose these dishes to introduce this rich cuisine: They all tell a story.
Though the ascent of the nation-state in the late 18th and 19th century gave rise to the idea of national cuisines, food at its core remains deeply regional; at times, cuisine is more closely tied to more local landscapes, as well as broader categories of language and religion, than it is to a nationality. Looking at Palestine, for example, we see that northern towns in the Galilee might share more dishes—such as kubbeh niyeh, a tartare of raw lamb and fine bulgur—with neighboring villages in Lebanon and Syria than with southern Palestinian areas such as Gaza.
Given our intertwined history and centuries-long acculturation under Islamic and Arab rule, it comes as no surprise that we share many dishes across all the countries of the Levant. Yakhneh is a primary example: The stew is always vegetable based, with meat having a supporting role, and most often features a tomato broth. It’s the staple dish that most Lebanese people, Syrians, Jordanians, and Palestinians eat with vermicelli rice on a weekly, if not daily, basis. This genre of dishes that span multiple national cuisines—also including hummus, falafel, and tabouleh—is glaringly missing from this introduction to Palestinian cuisine. This is not because these dishes aren’t popular in or significant to Palestinian cuisine, but because we wanted to share meals that set Palestinian cuisine apart. (That said, this doesn't mean that all of the recipes included here are completely exclusive to Palestinian cooking, only that they're more tightly encompassed by it.)
Daniel GritzerAfter much research, I chose recipes that represent the breadth of dishes across our geography and traditions. You’ll find qidreh from Hebron, hashweh from the Galilee, and msakhan from the center and the West Bank, as well as foods that speak to a history that many in the West may not be familiar with. Above all, I wanted to select dishes that gave a glimpse into what it really means to be Palestinian and what sets our cuisine apart from others in the Levant.
You’ll notice the majority of these dishes are mains made for sharing, and oftentimes are labor-intensive. These foods are enjoyed across the country (even if prepared differently based on the exact locale) and are often reserved for special occasions and gatherings. Though if you think of the average Palestinian family with several generations living under the same roof—or within very close proximity to each other—each mealtime is a gathering of sorts anyway.
How We Eat and Assemble a MealMany people associate the cooking of the Arab world with mezze and grilled meats because it’s what they have become accustomed to eating in restaurants. But the day-to-day meals Palestinian families enjoy are quite far-removed from these restaurant dishes.
Yes, there are many dips, spreads, and salads in the Palestinian culinary repertoire, and no wedding or celebratory table is considered complete without the presence of these plates. But the average weeknight dinner table consists of one main (usually a stew, stuffed vegetable, or grain-based dish) and possibly a salad or yogurt on the side. Bread and a plate of olives are also generally non-negotiable. This way of eating allows one to eat across all food groups: vegetables and grains take center stage, while meat plays a supporting role.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishAt larger gatherings, however, the dynamic changes and you will find more options on the table. There is always at least one show-stopping main dish to anchor the table and signal respect to guests, but you will often find several of these larger dishes alongside a selection of salads and spreads. Bread is ever-present and used just as much as a utensil to scoop up food as it is enjoyed on its own.
As a whole, a Palestinian meal usually strikes a fine balance of flavors, textures, and spices, regardless of the occasion and the exact dishes chosen. Maqlubeh and hashweh, for example, are both almost always dotted with fried nuts and served alongside fresh yogurt and Palestinian salad. Kafta is frequently served alongside rice and pickles. Even msakhan, a dish that, like mansaf, was traditionally served on its own with no accompaniments, still sees a table dotted with olives, radishes, pickles, possibly even yogurt. These dishes are all served family-style with the intent of sharing and eating together.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWhat ties all Palestinian tables together is more than just good food or specific dishes: It is the notion of “home,” the spirit of generosity, the importance of family, and the value of bringing people together. If there is one thing the following dishes introducing you to Palestinian cuisine can help you understand, it is precisely that.
The RecipesZa'atar (Middle Eastern Herb Blend)Serious Eats / Mai KakishNo Palestinian table is complete without za'atar, which is often eaten with bread dipped in olive oil. It can be used in a number of ways: as a topping for manaqeesh (a type of flatbread), mixed into yogurt or labaneh, or even as a seasoning for meat and chicken marinades. The spice blend consists of toasted sesame seeds, dried za'atar leaves (though you can also use dried oregano, marjoram, or thyme), sumac, and a little bit of salt.
Taboon (Flatbread)Serious Eats / Mai KakishThough taboon is the name given to the clay ovens used by Palestinians, it also refers to this flatbread. It's soft, tender, and dimpled from being cooked on stones. And unlike pita bread, taboon doesn't open up to become a pocket, but is instead sturdier, allowing it to support a heavier load of toppings. It's used as the main component of msakhan, but can also be used to scoop up anything from labaneh and hummus to stews and braises. When topped with olive oil and za'atar and heated in the oven, taboon becomes a crispy manaqeesh.
Ka'ak al Quds (Jerusalem Sesame Bread)Serious Eats / Mai KakishI've written before about how ka'ak is likely the precursor to the modern day bagel. The oblong sesame breads are synonymous with Jerusalem (after all, "ka'ak al Quds" translates to "Jerusalem ka'ak"), and most Palestinians agree that the ka'ak made in Jerusalem taste better than those made anywhere else in the country. While there are many breads today that are similar, from from Turkish simit to Polish obwarzanki, ka'ak al Quds is distinguished by both its flavor—which comes from being baked in centuries-old ovens heated with olive wood—and its shape. This recipe may not taste exactly like the ones made in Jerusalem, but their crispy exteriors and fluffy interiors make an excellent placeholder to eat alongside za'atar, falafel, or eggs.
Salata Falahiyeh (Farmers Salad)Serious Eats / Mai KakishSo many cultures, from Mediterranean and Balkan to Central and South Asian, have some version of a salad made from cucumber and tomato. The Palestinian iteration features finely diced tomato and cucumber cubes no larger than a dry chickpea; mint—fresh or dry—is commonly incorporated, and occasionally a sprinkling of parsley; and onions are a must. The dressing is nothing more than olive oil, fresh lemon juice, and salt. And while my recipe includes measurements and weights for those who want it, this is a salad that can—and should—be adjusted to your tastes.
Maqlubeh ("Upside Down" Meat, Vegetables, and Rice)Serious Eats / Mai KakishMaqlubeh or maqlubah, which simply means "flipped over," is traditionally made by boiling either lamb or chicken, frying one or more vegetables (historically just eggplants), then layering the meat, rice, and vegetables in a stew pot and cooking it with some stock. Today, there are countless variations, but all of them result in a dish that's flipped over to reveal a complete and festive meal. It's a dish that can serve as a celebratory meal or a weekly family one, and is often accompanied by fried slivered almonds, yogurt, and chopped Palestinian salad.
Hashweh (Spiced Rice and Meat)Serious Eats / Mai KakishHashweh simply means "stuffing," and that’s what Palestinians call this dish even when it doesn't function as an actual stuffing. While stuffed dishes are often reserved for guests and special occasions, the stuffing itself is more commonly served as a meal in its own right. It consists of simple ingredients, which means the quality of those ingredients are especially important. While it's possible to make this meal using ready-ground beef and store-bought broth, hand-diced meat and homemade broth is preferred. These small details will ensure a superior flavor and texture that complement the spices in the dish.
Dawali (Stuffed Grape Leaves)Serious Eats / Mai KakishWhile dawali is one of our most common meals, it's primarily a celebratory one. The one-pot dish consists of grape leaves stuffed with a mixture of rice, spices, and meat, which is then placed on top of lamb ribs (though other cuts of meat can also be used), cooked on a stovetop and flipped over for a beautiful presentation when serving. The process of preparing this dish is time consuming, but well worth it for the results, and something to get the whole family involved in.
Kafta bi Bandora (Ground Meat Patties in Tomato Sauce)Serious Eats / Mai KakishA mixture of minced meat and spices, kafta can be found in many iterations across the Middle East, South Asia, and parts of Europe. In the Palestinian kitchen, it's usually made with minced lamb, but it can also be made with beef, goat, or any combination thereof. Some common mix-ins include onions, garlic, parsley, spices, nuts, and other herbs—every family has their own version. It can be shaped into sausages or patties, baked or grilled, served with rice, potatoes, or bread, or all three...the possibilities are endless.
Qidreh (Bone-In Lamb With Spiced Rice)Serious Eats / Mai KakishQidreh is the hallmark dish of the Palestinian city of Hebron, and one that's commonly served during the month of Ramadan, as well as weddings, funerals, and special occasions. It's consists of tender bone-in lamb atop fragrant spiced rice, and is almost always served with a side of plain yogurt and chopped Palestinian salad. It primarily gets its flavor from the neighborhood wood-fired oven where, in Hebron, it's sent to finish cooking. Without that oven, it's hard to impart the same aroma, so here I've added ingredients other cities have been known to include like chickpeas and whole garlic cloves.
Maftool (Wheat Pearls in a Vegetable, Chickpea, and Chicken Stew)Serious Eats / Mai KakishA distinctively Palestinian dish, maftool are caviar-sized pearls made of whole wheat. The most traditional way to serve maftool is with a brothy stew that includes onions, chickpeas, and chicken, and frequently seasoned with caraway. It can be common to include butternut squash or pumpkin cubes; some people add tomato paste to the broth, while others cook the pearls directly in a tomato broth and serve it up similar to a risotto. Homemade maftool takes time, patience, and practice, but you can purchase dried maftool to make the process easier.
Mansaf (Spiced Lamb With Rice and Yogurt Sauce)Serious Eats / Mai KakishMansaf is not only known as the quintessential dish of the Bedouins—the nomadic Arab people that live across the Middle East and North Africa—but is also considered one of the national dishes of both Jordan and Palestine. Today's preparation of the dish has evolved from its original, exclusively using jameed to make the sauce and baste the flatbread in, before including rice or bulgur on top of the bread. As for the meat, either lamb or goat is nestled on top and scattered with toasted nuts, and the remaining yogurt is usually served on the side.
Msakhan (Flatbreads With Onion, Sumac, and Spiced Roast Chicken)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikA celebrated and essential meal to the cuisine, many refer to msakhan as the national dish of Palestine, although there are probably three or four more dishes vying for the title. It's made by slowly cooking down onions with tart sumac, which gives them their notorious purple hue and balances out the sweetness of the onions, before adding taboon and topping with crispy chicken and pine nuts. The dish offers a satisfying contrast of textures and flavors made with very simple ingredients.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziYour sense of taste isn’t the only thing that makes a meal enjoyable—touch also contributes to the experience. And the subtle differences in the weight, balance, and texture of your flatware can set the tone of a meal before you even start eating.
Eating in a cafeteria? You’ll likely be dining with a thin metal fork. A fine dining restaurant? Expect heavy utensils that make a design statement and communicate the restaurant’s point of view—maybe you’ll even be treated to a chilled salad fork. For home use, it’s still worth taking the time to find a flatware set that you like and feels good in the hand. It’s something you’ll use almost every day, after all.
To find the best flatware for everyday use, we tested 12 stainless steel sets ranging from .80¢ to $10 per piece ($16 to $199 per set) and in a variety of finishes, including polished, matte, and bronzed.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Best Flatware Set: Made In FlatwareThe Made In flatware is simple and elegant. We think the classic design will fit into any kitchen. During testing, we found these durable stainless steel pieces to be perfectly balanced and pleasantly heavy in the hand.
Also Great: Robert Welch Westbury Flatware SetsThis set is available in a mirror or satin finish. We tested the latter and found the satin finish and v-shaped handle added a subtle design flare to this simple flatware. This set performed well in durability, ease, and cleanup tests and was just really nice to use. It’s available in a single setting or as a 20-, 42-, or 50-piece set.
The Best Budget Flatware Set: Oneida Voss 45-Piece Flatware Set This set includes service for eight people and five extra serving pieces, including a cute, shell-shaped sugar spoon. The thick handles feature a slight depression in the handle, which we found pleasing to hold.
The Best Flatware That’s Available in a Few Finishes: Crate & Barrel Caesna Mirror 5-Piece Flatware Place SettingThis well-designed set performed well during testing. The pieces were balanced, durable, and smooth. It’s available in mirror, satin, and something called “Air Silver.” It can be purchased as a 3-, 5- or 20-piece set.
The Best Slightly Embellished Flatware Set: Lenox Portola 65-Piece Flatware SetThis set performed well during testing, and it’s a great value. The set includes service for 12 as well as additional serving pieces like a large slotted serving spoon and serving fork. The flared and embellished handles add a subtle design element.
The TestsWe made sure to evaluate how easy each piece of flatware was to use and eat from, as well overall design and cleanup.Serious Eats / Madeline Muzzi Tomato Soup Test: To test the spoons, we poured two ounces of tomato soup into bowls and used each set’s spoon to eat it. Spoons were evaluated for size, function, and balance. * Chicken Breast Test: To test each set’s knife, we prepared a roasted chicken breast and sliced through it on a dinner plate. Knives were evaluated for function and feel. * Salad Test: To test the dinner and salad forks, we prepared a batch of farro salad. We used each fork to eat a serving of the salad, evaluating how well they stabbed and scooped small pieces, as well as considering the overall experience of using the forks. * User Experience Test: We shared a meal of soup and salad with friends to gather broader feedback on each set. * Cleanup Tests:* We cleaned each set by hand and ran dishwasher-safe utensils through the dishwasher. After cleaning, we inspected each item for tarnish or wear.
What We LearnedFinding the Best Flatware Set Was a Weighty Decision Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziWeight was one of the key factors that determined how pleasant a utensil was to hold. Imagine the difference between drinking water from a paper cup and a heavy glass. Even if they hold the same amount of water, the heavy glass feels more satisfying and conveys a sense of quality. Thin sets of flatware like the LIANYU 20 Piece Silverware Flatware Cutlery Set were much lighter than our winners. The LIANYU dinner fork weighed in at 49 grams. This was significantly lighter than the Oneida fork, which weighed 72 grams, and the Made In fork, which weighed 54 grams.
At the Same Time, the Best Flatware Was BalancedIf your flatware is perfectly balanced, you shouldn’t even notice it. It should feel like a natural extension of your hand. Balanced sets like the Robert Welch Westbury were easy to wield. Each individual piece was comfortable when held in the correct place (near the end of the handle). Others, like the Oneida Mooncrest, felt wobbly in hand. This was most noticeable with the large spoon. To hold this piece comfortably we had correct for the off-center balance, which meant holding only the very end of the handle.
Consider the SpoonSpoons had to be large enough to hold a bite of soup, but not too large to be tough to eat from.Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziWhen testing the spoons, the most noticeable feature was size. There’s room for preference here, but to pass our test a spoon needed to be small enough to comfortably eat with and large enough to hold a satisfying bite of soup—without it dripping down the sides. The Zwilling set included a small spoon that at seven-and-a-quarter inches long and one-and-a-half inches wide resulted in an unsatisfying bite of soup. On the opposite end of the spectrum, measuring over eight inches long and one-and-three-fourths inches wide, the Our Table dinner spoon felt comically large and difficult to eat with.
Flatware Should Be Smooth and PolishedThe ideal flatware had soft, rounded edges (okay, except for the knife). Some sets we tested were smooth and polished all the way around, which made for a seamless eating experience. Others had slightly rough edges that caught on our mouths. The Crate & Barrel, Robert Welch, and Made In utensils were the smoothest. Others, like the Oneida Mooncrest, had unpolished edges on the sides of the fork tines, which just didn’t feel great to eat off of.
Sharper Wasn’t Better Both of these knives represent poorer performers: the left was too dull and the right was too sharp.Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziEveryday cutlery is often kept in a drawer and heaped into the dishwasher. You want to be able to grab a handful without cutting yourself. For the knife, this means that the blade should be dull enough for safety, but sharp enough to slice through chicken. The best-performing knives had small serrations that helped them cut through meat without creating a sharp blade. The non-serrated options were either dangerously sharp, like the Laguiole Jean Dubost, or frustratingly dull, like the Knork Original Collection.
The Criteria: What to Look for In Flatware SetSerious Eats / Madeline MuzziChoose a flatware set that creates the feeling of everyday luxury. Look for perfectly balanced pieces with a pleasant heft and a design that suits your taste. Choose a high-quality, rust-resistant material like stainless steel, so that your set will last forever. To make your life easier, find a set that’s dishwasher-safe. This will simplify daily use and cleanup.
The Best Flatware Set: Made In Flatware What we liked: The Made In set is simple and timeless. We found each piece to be well-balanced with smooth, rounded edges and a satisfying heft. Its knife cut through chicken easily, while it’s spoon held the perfect bite of soup. Overall, you can’t go wrong with something so well-made and elegant.
What we didn’t like: This set is expensive. At $199 for 20 pieces, it comes with enough for a service for four. Unfortunately, Made In doesn’t offer additional single settings, so you’d have to purchase a whole other 20-piece set if you wanted, say, enough flatware for six people. Made In also does not include matching serving pieces.
Price at time of publish: $199.
Key Specs What’s included: Dinner fork, salad fork, dinner knife, soup spoon, dessert spoon * Number of pieces: 20 * Material: 18/10 stainless steel * Care:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziAlso Great: Robert Welch Westbury Flatware Sets What we liked: This lovely flatware set breezed through all of our tests. It was durable and easy to clean and had a nice weight in hand. It’s available in two finishes. Plus, notice the subtle v-shaped handle: this adds a slight touch of personality to an overall classic design. We liked that you can purchase service for four, then add additional settings as needed.
What we didn’t like: At $50 for five pieces or $200 for a 20-piece set, this set is among the most expensive we tested. Serving pieces are not included, but a matching serving spoon and fork can be purchased separately.
Price at time of publish: $200.
Key Specs What’s included: Dinner fork, salad fork, dinner knife, soup spoon, teaspoon * Number of pieces included: 20 (though you can purchase a 5-, 42-, or 50-piece set) * Material: 18/10 stainless steel * Care:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe Best Budget Flatware Set: Oneida Voss 45-Piece Flatware Set What we liked: This flatware is a great value. The set includes service for eight, plus additional serving pieces like a slotted serving spoon and a cute, shell-shaped sugar spoon. The pieces themselves are pleasantly heavy in the hand. The thick handles featured a slight depression, almost like a thumbprint, that felt natural to hold.
What we didn’t like: This set didn’t demonstrate the same attention to detail as the more expensive sets. While the pieces were functional, the edges of the fork tines were slightly rough.
Price at time of publish: $130.
Key Specs What’s include: 8 dinner forks, 8 salad forks, 8 dinner knives, 8 soup spoons, 8 teaspoons, 1 serving spoon, 1 slotted spoon, 1 serving fork, 1 butter knife, 1 sugar shell * Number of pieces included: 45 * Material: 18/10 stainless steel * Care:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe Best Flatware Set That’s Available in a Few Finishes: Crate & Barrel Caesna Mirror 5-Piece Flatware Place Setting What we liked: This set performed well in all of our tests. Its neutral design veers towards modern with a slightly softened angle between the head of the spoon and the handle. It’s available in mirror, satin, and “Air Silver,” which appears to be shinier than the other two options. It’s also designed by Robert Welch, the maker of one of our other favorite flatware sets.
What we didn’t like: At $150 for 20 pieces, it’s not the priciest offering we recommend, but it’s still up there. Matching serving pieces are available but must be purchased separately.
Price at time of publish: $40.
Key Specs What’s included: Dinner fork, salad fork, dinner knife, soup spoon, teaspoon * Number of pieces: 5 (though you can purchase a 3-, 5-, or 20-piece set) * Material: 18/10 stainless steel * Care:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe Best Slightly Embellished Flatware Set: Lenox Portola 65-Piece Flatware Set What we liked: This set comes with enough flatware to host a large dinner party, including the serving fork. The pieces are easy to use and clean. For those looking to add a little peronsonality to the table, this set includes a flared and beaded handle.
What we didn’t like: The individual pieces of this set are on the lighter side. The dinner fork weighs 42 grams, which is noticeably lighter when compared to the 54-gram Made In fork.
Price at time of publish: $126.
Key Specs What’s included: 12 dinner forks, 12 salad forks, 12 dinner knives, 12 soup spoons, 12 teaspoons, butter knife, serving fork, tablespoon, slotted tablespoon, sugar spoon * Number of pieces: 65 * Material: 18/10 Stainless steel * Care:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe Competition* Our Table Colby Satin 20-Piece Flatware Set: The spoons and forks felt light in the hand. This set was slightly imbalanced, making the pieces feel a little unwieldy. It also appears to no longer be available. * CB2 20-Piece Essence Brushed Gold Flatware Set: This set is functional and pleasingly heavy. It lost points because it isn’t dishwasher-safe, but could be a good choice for those seeking a pop of color, or a special occasion set you're willing to hand-wash. * Laguiole Jean Dubost 24 Piece Flatware Set: This set’s plastic handles feel inexpensive and brittle. The smaller spoon is quite tiny, and can’t hold a satisfying bite of soup or pudding. * Zwilling J.A. Henckels Opus Flatware, 45-Piece Set: These pieces performed well, but the thin handles felt a little slight in hand. * LIANYU 20 Piece Silverware Flatware Cutlery Set: The forks, knives and spoons in this set are very thin and light. They were inexpensive but flimsy. * Knork Original Collection Cutlery Utensils: This set was thick and bulky. The knife blade isn’t serrated and is set at a flat angle which made cutting difficult. * Oneida Mooncrest 45-Piece Flatware Set, Service This large set includes service for eight and additional serving pieces. The fork tines had rough edges that caught our mouths.
FAQsWhich silverware sets don’t rust? Stainless steel is our top material choice because it doesn’t rust easily. High-quality stainless steel is rust-resistant and will last a long time if cared for correctly. To prevent rust, always dry flatware completely before storing it.
What does 18/10 stainless steel mean? Stainless steel is graded for quality. The grade is given as a fraction, which represents the amount of chromium and nickel present in the steel. These elements enhance durability and rust resistance. 18/10 stainless steel contains 18% chromium and 10% nickel, and is considered the highest quality.
What's the difference between flatware and silverware?Although these terms are often used interchangeably, there is a difference. Flatware refers specifically to eating utensils like forks, knives, and spoons. Silverware can be used to refer to any item plated in silver.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianI would argue that Shake Shack's Shack Sauce is almost as important on a Shack Burger as the patty itself—it's what differentiates the Shack Burger from Shake Shack's regular cheeseburger. It's by all accounts a "secret" recipe that was going to take a bit of hard-core investigative journalism to uncover.
My first attempt was to play the Shack-virgin card. When I got to the front of the line at the Upper West Side location one Monday afternoon, I innocently asked the cashier, "So, what's the Shack Sauce?"
Her response: "It's mayo-based. Sweet, sour, hot."
I went fishing: "How spicy is it? Like it's got hot sauce in it or something?"
But she didn't take the bait: "A little spicy. But also sweet and sour."
One last try: "So, sweet like thousand Island? Like it's got relish in it?"
She's an inscrutable blank wall: "No, no relish. Mayo-based, sweet, sour, hot."
I give in: "Okay, give me a Shack Burger, extra Shack Sauce on the side."
Upon tasting it, my immediate thoughts are mayo, ketchup, a little yellow mustard, a hint of garlic and paprika, perhaps a touch of cayenne pepper, and an elusive sour quality that I can't quite pinpoint. It's definitely not just vinegar or lemon juice, nor does it have the cloying sweetness of relish. Pickle juice? Cornichon? Some other type of vinegar? I can't figure it out. This was going to take a little more effort.
My next strategy was a little more drastic: "accidentally" walking through the hidden door in the downstairs rec-room that leads to the kitchen in the hopes of taking a sneaky glance at their pantry for hints. No good. I got halfway through the door, only catching a glimpse of a few cans lining the right-hand wall before it was pointed out to me by a friendly employee that the restrooms were actually behind the doors clearly labeled "restroom."
I sat on the bench outside contemplating a bit of dumpster diving when a thought struck me: Maybe I was going about this all wrong.
I walked back into the restaurant, went straight up to the manager, and asked point blank: "Is the Shack Sauce a secret, or can you tell me what's in it?"
A little laugh, and then, "It's mostly mayo, with some ketchup, mustard, a few spices, and pickles blended in."
"So, pickle relish, or pickles?"
"Actual pickles—the sliced pickles we serve with the burgers. I couldn't give you exact tablespoon measure or anything because I don't know them off hand, but that's the general idea."
Note to self: Always ask nicely before moving on to breaking-and-entering.
Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-AltThe rest was easy: I brought the extra sauce home, then tinkered around with a blender and my spice rack until I got a pretty damn-close approximation. Can you pick out which is the real sauce in the pic above?
As for applying the sauce, the key here is generous, even coverage. For the sake of absolute authenticity, I transferred the sauce to a squeeze bottle, and squeezed out three lines onto the top half of the bun, going back and forth three times along each line.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianCombine all ingredients in a countertop blender jar and blend on high until smooth, scraping down sides of blender with rubber spatula as necessary, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Transfer sauce to an airtight container and refrigerate until ready to use (sauce can be refrigerated for up to 5 days).
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianMake-Ahead and StorageStore sauce in an air tight container and refrigerate until ready to use. Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 5 days.
Read More* The Fake Shack (or the Shack Burger at Home) Recipe * The Burger Lab: The Principles of Topping Burgers * 10 Tips for Better Burgers
Serious Eats / Eric KingYou've probably heard cooks or food people (and maybe we are guilty of this here at Serious Eats) lament the use of unitaskers, e.g., things with one very specific purpose, like avocado slicers, bagel cutters, or meat claws.
But what about the tools that are so useful and necessary that you need more than one? Have you ever started boiling pasta only to discover that your one and only strainer is in the dishwasher—and then abruptly stopped the dishwasher mid-cycle because you have nothing else to strain with? I sure have. Have you had to repeatedly wash and rewash a tool as you prep a recipe, stretching out what was supposed to be a 30-minute meal into a much longer affair? Yup, that's been me on a hurried weeknight.
Here's a list of items we find highly useful to have multiples of. Note: we didn't include cookware (that's a whole separate list!) or knives.
Two strainers (or more, of varying sizes)If you're going to have one strainer, it should be a fine-mesh strainer, capable of so much more than just straining pasta and other things we rinse or boil in water. But strainers are one of those items that can't really be substituted for anything else—at least not well or comfortably. We've all—or maybe this is just me—tried to strain pasta water out of a pot by holding the lid and carefully pouring out the water, only to a) have lots of pasta water still leftover in the pot or b) splash yourself with hot starchy water. Simple tasks can become unnecessarily cumbersome if your only strainer is out of commission for any reason (i.e., running merrily through the dishwasher, as we mentioned before).
Along with my pair of fine-mesh strainers, I also have a colander with larger holes, which isn't quite as much of a workhorse, but can handle larger batches of pasta and strain large pieces out of stock. I also have a small mesh strainer perfect for double-straining cocktails and tea drinks, along with straining out oil and water solutions for things like olives and pickles.
A handful of quarter and half sheet traysQuarter-sheet pans are my go-to for dry-brining meat. As you can probably guess, they're half the size of half-sheet pans.
Half-sheet pans are great for cooking and roasting, but I find quarter-sheet plans ideal for prep work and storage. I've gotten a little creative with my quarter-sheet pans (I have three), using them instead of half-sheet pans when I can, mostly because quarter-sheet pans fit in the toaster oven, which cooks food quicker for meals when I’m just feeding myself or one other person. But I also use quarter-sheet pans to wrap up leftovers I know are destined to be thrown in the oven (I'll cover the top with reusable beeswax covers or, in a pinch, aluminum foil).
Multiple sets of measuring spoons and cupsIt is quite annoying to be going through a recipe and realize the measuring spoon you need is, say, slick with oil and not suitable for measuring spices until it's washed. It's worth having at least two (maybe three!) sets of measuring spoons. The same can be said for dry and liquid measuring cups. Having multiples around will save you a whole lot of time when prepping.
100-plus mini measuring cupsOk, maybe not 100, but I have at least 10 of these small measuring cups by OXO. Having multiple measuring cups makes recipe prep a breeze: you don't have to wash out your measuring cups as you set up ingredients, which can be particularly annoying if you measure out something liquid or viscous, like olive oil, and then realize you need the measuring cup or spoon for dried spices.
I like the OXO mini measuring cups, which hold about 1/4 cup of liquid; the cups also display measurements in milliliters, ounces, and tablespoons, so you can use them to measure almost anything. They have a flat bottom and can serve as vessels for your prepped ingredients.
A few cutting boardsFor cutting boards, you need at least one large wooden one, one large plastic one, and one small plastic one. No arguments! After that, a very large wooden one is nice to have as well, as it can also act as a serving board. Having multiple cutting boards is great for keeping food prep safe, e.g. cutting meats on one board and saving vegetables for another to avoid cross-contamination.
Two-plus pairs of tongsHow many pairs of tongs do I have? Don't ask. I have no idea, but it's more than two. Tongs can stir, scatter, and mix. Tongs can also pick stuff up and flip it, like a giant, dry-aged porterhouse steak. I've found myself in situations where I've used two tongs to flip over particularly large items, using the second set of tongs almost like a lever.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikSauce spoonsThis is actually a pick from senior culinary director Daniel Gritzer: "I own one long-handled serving spoon, but I often find it annoying, since with home cooking I rarely need a metal spoon with such a long handle given the smaller pot size. It's nice to have one on occasion and for the table, but that's about it. Otherwise, sauce spoons that restaurant cooks use, both regular and slotted/perforated, are the way to go. They're less clunky thanks to their shorter handles, and make an easier transition between kitchen and dining table since they can be used in both places. And given how much use one gets out of this kind of spoon both in the kitchen and on the table, having a couple of each, or at least a couple of the solid (non-slotted) ones is very useful."
Silicone spatulasI used to think silicone spatulas were only useful for baking—and I was wrong. Now silicone spatulas are what I'll use to scrape clean any plate, bowl, or dish. Why have just one!? Why have just two!?
Two MicroplanesMicroplanes can be challenging to clean, so I have two. One I use for things like garlic, ginger, and citrus. The second I use for cheese, mostly to prevent cross-contamination with the items listed above, which get stuck easily in a microplane. Cheese is also something I might just grate a small amount from a larger block, so I try to keep anything that’s touched strongly-scented or flavored things away from them. How you categorize your microplanes is up to you: if you bake a lot, you might want one for whole spices like nutmeg, for example.
A couple of vegetable peelersOur favorite super-affordable vegetable peelers are well worth having a few stashed in your drawer. Maybe you're peeling two different things, maybe you want to enlist a peeling partner, maybe you're a fan of different colors! Don't even ask about swivel peelers—Y-peelers are way better.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWooden spoonsYou probably already have more than one wooden spoon, but if you don't get on it! They can be used for scrapping, stirring, and scooping—all things helpful. Plus, if you care for them (i.e. hand wash-only), they'll last a very long time. We have a few wooden spoons we recommend here.
Stainless steel prep bowls, of all sizesThis doesn't need a lot of explanation: you need a ton of prep bowls. We like stainless steel ones. You can get a set like the one above or just go to a restaurant supply store (if you go the latter route, we recommend getting a lot of small ones).
Two pepper millsIf we're getting really granular, having two pepper mills on hand is a very nice thing—one for black and one for white pepper.
Multiple ice cream scoopsFor portioning out cookies, cupcakes, and muffins and scooping ice cream, it's helpful to have a few of these scoops on hand. You can also just go to a restaurant supply store to get these, but, either way, they shouldn't cost you a lot.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikFAQsWhat essential kitchen gear do I need? The list above comprises a lot of essentials (like tongs, spatulas, measuring spoons, etc.). However, we have guides to essential cookware and general essentials (including knives, cookware, cutting boards, and more).
Should I buy a kitchen utensil set?We don't recommend buying a utensil set because, likely, you're getting some tools you don't actually need and that aren't the absolute best quality. Instead, we recommend buying things piece-by-piece. That way, you can also easily double up on tools you find you use the most.
Serious Eats / Amanda SaurezSqueeze bottles are indispensable in restaurant kitchens—and they should be in your home, too. Rather than unscrewing a cap on, say, oil and glugging it into your pan, a squeeze bottle offers more precision in terms of quantity and directing that stream of oil, allowing you to coat the surface and/or sides with ease (a squeeze bottle's one of must-have wok accessories for this reason). It’s also good for storing and serving homemade sauces and, heck, you can even use it to hold dish soap.
Given their versatility and overall utility, it’s not surprising that chefs we spoke to have squeeze bottles of all volumes, from nearly dropper-sized to 32-ounce behemoths. To find the best squeeze bottles, we tested seven popular, 12-ounce models (a reasonable size for most home cooks).
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Best Squeeze Bottle for Thin Liquids: Tablecraft 12 oz Clear Heavy Duty Squeeze BottleThis option from Tablecraft worked really well with thinner liquids (like lemon juice). It’s easy to squeeze, doesn’t leak, and creates a precise, braided (if, albeit, slightly diagonal) stream.
The Best, Easy-to-Clean Squeeze Bottle: Kegworks Plastic Clear Squeeze BottleIt’s a bit thicker-walled, so you must apply more pressure to emit the liquid, but its straight, confident stream really impressed us, and it cleaned up easier than others—particularly flimsier bottles, which tended to hold stains and grease longer.
The Best Squeeze Bottle for Thicker Sauces: Vollrath 2812-1344 Traex Color-Mate 12 oz. Clear Single Tip Standard Squeeze BottleThis bottle surprised us! We were not impressed with its performance with thinner liquids and oils, but boy, did it perform with thicker sauces. It was a snap to squeeze—so wrists don’t tire if you're applying decorations repetitively—and a breeze to control. We were able to create pristine squiggles that were not too thin nor too thick.
The Tests Water Test: To test the squeeze bottles’ ability to direct and squirt a thin liquid, we filled a squeeze bottle with water and squirted two ounces into a measuring cup, noting if the stream was fast and furious, dribbly and slow, or just right. * Leakage Test: We shook the bottle filled with water up and down and noted if there was any leaking. * Oil Test: To test how the bottle handles a more viscous liquid, we filled each with 1.25 cups of oil mixed with 1.5 teaspoons of turmeric. We squirted two ounces into a measuring cup, noting if it produced an even stream, if it dribbled, etc. * Staining Test: We left the remainder of the oil in the bottles for four hours, then emptied and hand-washed them with soap and water and noted any staining or leftover odors. * Mayonnaise Test: To test each squeeze bottle’s ability to squirt a thick sauce, we filled each with mayonnaise and squirted a squiggle on bread. * Cleanup Tests:* After nearly every test, we emptied and hand-washed each bottle and noted any residue, staining, or smells.
What Can You Use Squeeze Bottles For?“Squeeze bottles serve so many different functions,” says Annie O’Hare, chef and founder of Manhattan’s O Cuisine catering. “Mostly they’re for precision. When you’re putting a little dab of sauce or a drop of flavored oil on hundreds of hors d'oeuvres, you can‘t use a spoon, so a squeeze bottle is indispensable. And, obviously, for dessert plating, their tapered nozzles allow you to apply fine details.”
But that’s not all. O' Hare says they’re also suitable for “cold sauces, as well as for salad dressings, where a quick shake of the bottle emulsifies the vinaigrette before you put it on the salad."
Shaun Hergatt, owner and executive chef at Manhattan’s Vestry and executive chef at REN in Brooklyn, agrees. “We use squeeze bottles for sauce and purées, oils and liquids, to make sure everything is portioned perfectly,” he says. And while chefs might use squeeze bottles for pristine plating, they are also great for at-home cooks, too: you can fill them with salad dressing, oil, simple syrups for drinks, condiments, homemade fermented hot sauce—you name it, you can squeeze it.
Important Squeeze Bottle Safety TipsBecause of the possibility of chemicals leaching from plastic into food, you don't want to put hot liquids into a squeeze bottle (or any plastic in general). Let any liquids cool down before you fill the squeeze bottle. Make sure that the squeeze bottle you're buying is food-grade. These containers are highly regulated by the FDA and are all BPA-free and can be used as storage containers. To avoid spills or air exposure, wrap some foil or plastic wrap around the nozzle if it doesn't have its own cap.
No matter what you store in them, you don’t want to keep foods in your squeeze bottles for too long, particularly if a sauce is dairy-, egg-, or meat-based. If you have any questions as to how long the food can remain in the container in the fridge, check the USDA’s Foodkeeper app.
The Michigan State University Extension has some more safety tips for squeeze bottles and any other plastic serving and storage containers: do not microwave them; don’t freeze them unless they specifically are made to be freezer-safe; and unless the manufacturer says they are dishwasher-safe, wash your squeeze bottles with warm, soapy water.
What We LearnedThe Size and Trueness of the Nozzle Was Key to PerformanceSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezNot all nozzles are made the same. “You can get a fine point, a wider one, and sometimes you wind up cutting it to your own size,” notes O’Hare. Finer nozzles, like the one on the HIC squeeze bottle and, to a lesser extent, the Tablecraft, are a bonus if you’re doing delicate decorating work with a thicker icing or sauce.
Those on the opposite side of the spectrum, she says, can be a pain. Wide nozzles might be good for utility jobs, like adding a big squirt of vinaigrette to a salad. But they can undermine portion control, and for more precision work, their stream is harder to control and tends to burp and blurp. This was an issue with the OXO and JapanBargain squeeze bottles.
The Choice bottle, on the other hand, sported a nozzle that was just wide enough, but not too wide, for a controllable, thick line. But the Vollrath was our favorite for thicker sauces because its line wasn’t too thin or thick.
Three of the bottles—Tablecraft, HIC, and OXO—did not shoot true; their streams flowed slightly to the left. Though that was annoying, as soon as we got used to it, we actually preferred the Tablecraft because it was easy to control the flow speed with thinner liquids. It failed entirely, though, with thicker sauces because the nozzle had been imperfectly cut, causing a ragged flow; mayonnaise squirted all over the place! The solution to this, we found, was to push a skewer down through the top of the nozzle to true the opening.
Plastic Thickness Was Also a Factor“Some bottles are too rigid to work a precise stream. Others are cheap and flimsy,” warns O’Hare. Though we found thinner-walled bottles like the HIC, Vollrath, and Kegworks, easy to squeeze, they were more difficult to clean up when filled with a staining ingredient like turmeric-infused oil. The ochre color tended to stick to the plastic, and we had to scrub harder during cleanup. Moreover, with thinner liquids, they offered little resistance, so the stream was more difficult to control.
On the other hand, thick-walled models like the Choice squeeze bottle took far too much muscle to achieve an accurate stream. We worried that, over time, we’d tax our wrists. Its other problem was its opacity. You want a bottle that is clear plastic so you can check the contents for consistency or deterioration.
Screw Tops and Nozzle Caps Were Problem AreasA bottle that leaks is a problem—you don't want oil gushing out all over your countertop or mayonnaise exploding everywhere.
Indeed, when we ran our water test, we found that three of the seven bottles—the HIC, Vollrath, and JapanBargain—leaked from their screwtops. That’s why Samuel Kim, senior director of culinary operations for Baekjeong Korean Barbecue, says, by definition, “good squeeze bottles have very tight-fitting tops.” But Kim isn’t hedging his bets. With squeeze bottles, he says, it’s Murphy’s law, so he’s got an industry tip for you: “We usually line the screw top with plastic wrap to insure a tight seal.”
Another potential issue is the added feature of the cap that covers the nozzle tip, which gets in the way. The JapanBargain bottle presented this problem, because its cap, attached by a flexible plastic arm that is part of the screw top, flopped over into the stream of liquid.
The other bottle we tested with an attached cap, the OXO, solved the issue with a hinged mechanism that locked the attached cap in place out of the way of the liquid. But the OXO had a different screw top problem: its top comes in two parts, with a separate nozzle held in place by a screw lid. That simply means more parts to misplace or forget to attach, with the potential for major spills.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Squeeze BottleSerious Eats / Amanda Suarez / Grace KellyOur favorite squeeze bottles had lids that didn’t leak, lacked lid caps, had walls that were just the right thickness to handle different viscosities, and extruded liquids straight. Some nozzles were better for thicker liquids and some for thinner ones, but we preferred ones that were on the narrower side, as they were more versatile.
The Best Squeeze Bottle for Thin Liquids: Tablecraft 12 oz Clear Heavy Duty Squeeze BottleWhat we liked: After we got used to its quirky left-leaning stream, we loved the steady, braided stream of thinner liquids that flowed from the Tablecraft. It was quite easy to squeeze, but not too easy that the flow was uncontrollable.
What we didn’t like: The nozzle on this one was imperfectly cut, so the flow, though pretty, hung to the left on thinner liquids, and with thicker liquids, it spurted. The latter problem was easy to fix by truing the nozzle opening with the tip of a skewer. But this just goes to show that a squeeze bottle might need a bit of extra care before you can truly make it your own.
Price at time of publish: $7 (for a two-pack).
Key Specs Dimensions: 2.375 inches x 8.625 inches * Capacity: 12 ounces * Materials: BPA-free plastic * Care Instructions: Dishwasher-safe * Certifications:* None
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Best, Easy-to-Clean Squeeze Bottle: Kegworks Plastic Clear Squeeze Bottle What we liked: There was simply nothing to complain about when we filled this one with staining oil and worked with it. The stream came out with precision and just the right amount of power. Best of all, it cleaned up with ease.
What we didn’t like: The nozzle was a bit too wide and the bottle was too large for thicker sauces. They tend to fall to the sides and allow air into the flow, which leads to burping—and mistakes when you’re trying for precision decorating.
Price at time of publish: $1.50 each.
Key Specs Dimensions: 7 inches x 2.38 inches * Capacity: 12 ounces * Materials: BPA-free plastic * Care Instructions: Dishwasher-safe * Certifications:* None
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Best Squeeze Bottle for Thicker Sauces: Vollrath 2812-1344 Traex Color-Mate 12 oz. Clear Single Tip Standard Squeeze BottleWhat we liked: We were so pleased with the squiggles and decorative lines we could make with a thicker substance in this squeeze bottle! Liquids came out at just the right speed, with minimum effort, and there were no burps or blurps at all. We’re baking cupcakes just to ice them with this one.
What we didn’t like: We were not as impressed with this bottle when we tried it with a thinner substance. The liquid leaked out the seam between the nozzle and the bottle, and since the bottle was so thin-walled, we weren’t able to control the flow easily. It did stream well with the turmeric oil, but again, the thin walls posed a problem with cleanup; we found we really needed to scrub them to get them clean of grease and color.
Price at time of publish: $1.56 each.
Key Specs Dimensions: 7.25 inches x 2.38 inches * Capacity: 12 ounces * Materials: BPA-free plastic * Care Instructions: Dishwasher-safe * Certifications:* None
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Competition* OXO Chef's Squeeze Bottles 12 oz:The nozzle of this squeeze bottle was problematic. It was too wide, so the flow was difficult to control. Heavier liquids, like oil, come out in an arc rather than a stream unless you squeezed very hard—and then the oil gushed out, over-saucing foods. Moreover, the stream is not straight; it hangs to the left. Finally, the nozzle is separate from the cap, so there are more opportunities for improper assembly. * Choice 12 oz. Clear Squeeze Bottle: This bottle’s opacity made it difficult to see what was in it—a drawback when you’re pressed for time and just need to squeeze. Its thickness means squeezing was a workout, and its broad shoulders and thick-lipped, small opening complicated its cleanup. Worst of all, the nozzle can be over-screwed so that it slips from its secure position, a serious hazard when working with it. * HIC Refillable Squeeze Bottle with Nozzle Caps: Though thicker sauce came out in an elegant squiggle that was easy to control, thinner liquids leaked from the nozzle, which directed the stream rather severely to the left. Thinner walls also made this one more difficult to clean up, as they tended to stay greasy. * JapanBargain, Japanese Squeeze Bottle Squirt Condiment Bottles: Boy, is this one cute with its round, red cap! Unfortunately, nice looks don’t always mean good functioning. The wide nozzle and broad shoulders mean thicker sauces fell to the sides, leaving space for air to enter the flow, so the bottle did a lot of burping, leading to messy lines. Turmeric-infused oil stuck to the shoulders, and unless we squeezed very, very hard, thinner liquids came out in an arc rather than a stream, making the flow difficult to control.
FAQsWhat are squeeze bottles used for?Squeeze bottles are used to serve and temporarily store any liquid or sauce. With their tapered nozzles, they help with portioning, decorating, speed, and, since they can contain oils, even safety.
What do chefs put in squeeze bottles?Ask Tony Inn, chef at Manhattan’s Taru, and you’ll find that all sorts of things can be applied with a squeeze bottle. “Oil, salad dressings, fluid gels, thicker sauces that need to hold their shapes while plating,” he lists. Indeed, says Hergatt, “We use them for every dish we make.”
Are squeeze bottles safe?Food-grade squeeze bottles are BPA-free and safe to use when applying liquid ingredients and sauces, and when storing them for a day or two in the fridge. Like all plastic, they are not safe to microwave or heat, and you should not add hot liquids to them. Also, as with any plastic that is not specifically freezer-safe as per manufacturer information, you should not store food in a squeeze bottle in the freezer.
How long can I keep something in a squeeze bottle?Generally, you can store foods in a food-grade squeeze bottle for as long as you would in other plastic containers, but if the nozzle does not have a cap, you will want to wrap it in foil or plastic to avoid air getting in. The University of Minnesota Extension has a good chart for storage times.
What is the best way to clean a squeeze bottle? Though some sources cite baking soda as a good cleanser, we found that blasting out any stuck sauces with the spray nozzle on our kitchen sink, then shaking soapy water inside the bottle, rinsing it, and again blasting it with the spray nozzle did the trick, even for staining ingredients. Make sure not to neglect the nozzle; add a touch of soap to it on the inside, and run or spray warm water through it.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikReally great pizza requires high heat, which usually means either lugging out the outdoor pizza oven or cranking the broiler in your home oven and using a baking steel. But baking steels require a lot of recovery time between pies, and outdoor pizza ovens aren't great when the weather is foul or you lack outdoor space.
The Breville Pizzaiolo solves both of these problems with its high-powered heating coils and countertop-friendly design.
Why We Love ItThe Breville Pizzaiolo Pizza Oven easily baked up crispy, thin Neapolitan pizzas.Serious Eats / Vicky WasikTo start, this is one powerful oven; it only takes 15 minutes to reach a blazing 750ºF (while this might seem like a long time compared to an outdoor pizza oven, for an indoor option it's pretty darn good). It draws 1800 watts (almost as much as a full-size oven) to its three-coil heating system, which has one coil positioned below the ceramic deck and two in the dome to properly char the crust and blast the top with heat. In our testing, we found that this oven produced the best Neopolitan pizza when compared to a pizza made in a standard in-house oven with baking steel. And because of its insulation, you can set it up right on your kitchen counter: no need to move outside for pizza night.
It’s high-power also means that you can fire off pizzas back-to-back, making it great for entertaining. It’s also great for focaccia or various flatbreads. There are some drawbacks, though: it’s a fairly large countertop appliance, and it’s a uni-tasker. It also has some hot spots, so you’ll have to babysit your bakes for even crust color. And finally, it’s also quite pricey—which is why the current deal is worth highlighting.
Good to Know* Normally $1000, now $800 * 1800 watts * Dimensions: 18.5"D x 18.1"W x 10.6"H * Seven presets (350°F, Frozen, Pan, New York, Thin & Crispy, Wood FIred, 750°), plus a manual mode * 2-year limited warranty
FAQsCan you bake bread in the Breville Pizzaiolo pizza oven?Due to its low clearance between the deck and heating elements, this pizza oven is only able to bake focaccia or flatbreads. Any bread with a taller oven spring would hit the roof and heating coils.
What temperature can the Breville Pizzaiolo pizza oven reach? This pizza oven can be set up to 750ºF, which is in the range of wood-fired brick ovens, or outdoor gas-fired pizza ovens. It’s the only pizza oven that can hit these high temperatures while still being a countertop appliance (that we know of).
What kinds of pizza can you make in the Breville Pizzaiolo pizza oven?The high temps this pizza oven reaches make it ideal for Neopolitan pizzas, but its versatile settings also make it easy to bake New York-style pizzas, pan pizzas, and even frozen pizzas. Because the heating elements are electric, it’s easy for the oven to hit precise temperatures anywhere between 350ºF to 750ºF, making it super versatile.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerOil dispensers, sometimes called cruets, are one of the most undervalued pieces of kitchen equipment—take it from me, a reformed undervalue-er. For the last decade, I have used a bulbous glass oil dispenser that came to me secondhand. Sure, it leaked a little from the spout, was a chore to clean, and never quite got dry inside after it was washed…but it was better than pouring straight from the oil bottle (right?). I didn't think twice about what I was missing: an oil dispenser that not only cleaned and poured better than mine but looked nicer, too.
To find the best oil dispensers, I tested 9 models made of glass, stainless steel, and ceramic. They held between 12 and 24 fluid ounces of oil and were priced between $13 and $50. Like Kenji found when he tested olive oil pour spouts, I discovered the best-performing models were also among the most affordable. The top two oil dispensers stood out because of their superior flow control, washability, and smart spout design. One of them has even found a permanent spot on my countertop, replacing my old go-to.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Best Overall Olive Oil Dispenser: OXO Precision Pour Glass DispenserThis dispenser won me over from the first test since it was the only model never to drip or leak from the top. It poured in a thick stream as well as a precise drizzle (something nearly every other dispenser struggled to do). It was also the easiest dispenser to clean and dry.
The Best Tinted Olive Oil Dispenser: Zulay Glass Olive Oil DispenserOther than the OXO model, the dark brown Zulay was the only dispenser that allowed full control over the flow of oil, whether you poured a little or a lot. It was a more traditional style and came with two pour spouts: one with a hinge-top flap and one without. To compare with the other hinge-top models in the lineup, I tested this model with the hinge-less spout.
The TestsSerious Eats / Ashlee Redger Pouring Test: I timed how quickly I could pour 1/2 cup of oil out of each dispenser. I noted how smoothly each one poured and if any leaked or dripped after stopping. * Drizzling Test: I drizzled oil onto a plate using each dispenser to judge how accurate they were and to see if their spouts could maintain a thin, steady stream. I recorded any time oil glugged out of a dispenser, and when there was leaking or dripping. * Durability Test: I placed each emptied dispenser on a towel-lined sheet pan and knocked them over three times to see if they could stand up to kitchen accidents. * Cleaning Test:* I hand-washed the dispensers after every test to evaluate how easy they were to clean. I also noted if a dispenser still had moisture in it after a day of air drying.
What We LearnedTinted Dispensers Kept Oil FresherSerious Eats / Ashlee RedgerOil dispensers are often made from semi-transparent tinted glass (like the dark glass Zulay Glass Olive Oil Dispenser) or stoneware (like the Emile Henry Oil Cruet). And this isn't just to make the dispenser look good—it actually helps keep the oil fresher, too. There are two major reasons behind the chemical degradation (a.k.a. spoilage) of oil: hydrolytic rancidity and oxidative rancidity. Hydrolytic rancidity occurs when there is moisture in the oil, especially in the presence of enzymes. It is a good habit to make sure an oil cruet is clean and dry before filling it up (more on that later). Oxidative rancidity happens when oxygen in the air bonds with oil molecules, particularly in unsaturated varieties like olive and avocado oil. Ultraviolet light can speed up this reaction, so more opaque materials are ideal for mitigating light and slowing down degradation.
Although oxygen, light, and moisture are all factors in oil freshness, rancidity is still a relatively slow process. Even highly unsaturated oils like canola and sunflower can stay good for weeks (or months) once opened. Most everyday cooking oils that get used and refilled often will be just fine stored on the counter, even if they're stored in transparent glass like that of our winning OXO Precision Pour Glass Dispenser. For delicate finishing oils (like pistachio oil) that may not be used as frequently, a more opaque cruet may be preferable to protect the nuanced flavors. Other precautions can also be taken, like only decanting a week’s worth of oil into the dispenser and keeping it away from bright areas in the kitchen. Heat encourages both hydrolytic and oxidative rancidity, so it's also good practice to keep your oil dispenser away from the stove while cooking.
Spout Design Was CrucialSpouts mattered when it came to steady, clean pours.Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerFor easy, controlled pouring and drip prevention, nothing mattered as much as the spout of the oil dispenser. Both the Emile Henry Oil Cruet and the Le Creuset Olive Oil Cruet had air intake tubes that were built into the spouts, which often clogged with oil, leading to glugging since the dispenser had to suck in air before it could continue pouring. The Le Creuset was especially susceptible to this since its air intake valve was set below the rim of the spout. During both the measuring and drizzling tests, it often poured in slow, uneven drips (even stopping at times) before an unexpected, thick stream of oil came out. Models with air intake holes (like the OXO) that were separate from the pour spouts allowed for continuous streams, as well as better control over the amount.
Many of the cruets also included hinged flip-top lids on their spouts, which were designed to keep dust and air out and flap open during use. I found these lids significantly contributed to dripping, though; they would get coated in oil while pouring, then deposit that oil onto the outside of the spout afterward. This can also make the base of the dispenser slippery as oil drips down the spout and onto the neck, as it did on the Crate and Barrel Oil Bottle. The truth is that the flip-top lids are not airtight, and the amount of airflow inside a dispenser between uses is minimal anyway. Drips can also make the spouts harder to clean over time, as the dried oil on the outside becomes sticky and attracts its own coating of dust and grime. I preferred spouts without the hinged lids as they had fewer drips and stayed cleaner. The OXO was the only dispenser to remain completely drip-free and pristine throughout every test. Its lidless spout had a folded lip that efficiently cut off the flow of oil, preventing any drips in the first place.
Wide-Mouth Openings Made Cleaning EasierWide-mouthed openings were easier to fill and clean.Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerUnsurprisingly, oil dispensers with wider openings were easier to refill without spilling or needing a funnel. They were also simpler to clean—the OXO could be hand-washed with a kitchen sponge instead of a long bottle brush (although a reusable straw brush was still handy for scrubbing the spout). Another benefit of larger openings was better drying. Narrow bottlenecks prevented airflow inside, which caused moisture to condense inside the bottles instead of dripping out. This meant the cruets could take days to dry out fully or require clumsy interventions, like a rolled-up paper towel, to soak up the last bit of water and prevent the hydrolytic rancidity I explained earlier. The worst offenders were the ceramic models. After a day on the drying rack, I could still shake out drops of water from the Emile Henry Oil Cruet. With its truly opaque finish, I had no way of knowing when it was completely dried inside. The OXO, on the other hand, was dry within an hour of washing.
The Criteria: What to Look for in an Olive Oil DispenserSerious Eats / Ashlee Redger / Grace KellyA tinted glass or more opaque dispenser is better at preventing delicate oils from degradation, but transparent glass is okay for frequently used cooking oils. The lid should have an air intake hole that is separate from the pour spout. I liked spouts without a hinge-top flap because they minimized dripping and kept the bottles themselves cleaner. Wide-mouthed dispensers are easier to clean and refill. Plus, they dry quickly and thoroughly.
The Best Overall Olive Oil Dispenser: OXO Precision Pour Glass DispenserWhat we liked: While every other dispenser had drips of oil coating their spouts, the OXO stayed spotless throughout every test. It was easy to control the stream of oil, whether a thin drizzle or a full pour. This dispenser had a wide opening that made it effortless to clean, dry, and refill. The silicone insert in the lid pops in and out to wash, and every component is dishwasher-safe.
What we didn’t like: This dispenser can only hold one-and-a-half cups of oil at a time—the smallest capacity of any of the models tested.
Price at time of publish: $17.
Key Specs Weight: 9 ounces * Materials: Clear glass with a plastic, stainless steel, and silicone lid * Capacity: 12 fluid ounces (1.5 cups) * Height: 8 inches * Width (at widest point): 2.5 inches * Care:* Dishwasher-safe (the silicone lid component comes out for better cleaning)
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerThe Best Tinted Olive Oil Dispenser: Zulay Glass Olive Oil DispenserWhat we liked: The dark glass of the Zulay dispenser helps keep the oil inside fresher by letting in less light. Both spouts that were included with this dispenser had separate air intakes, which allowed for better control during each pour. It also came with a silicone cap for the hinge-less spout, as well as lids to seal the bottle completely, and a little funnel for refills.
What we didn’t like: Although there was less dripping on the hingeless spout compared to hinge-top models, a little oil still built up on the spout after each use. It also took the inside of this bottle longer to air dry after washing than the wide-mouthed OXO dispenser.
Price at time of publish: $20.
Key Specs Weight: 14.1 ounces * Materials: Dark brown glass with a stainless steel spout * Capacity: 17 fluid ounces (roughly 2 cups) * Height: 12.5 inches * Width (at widest point): 2.25 inches * Care:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerThe Competition* Emile Henry Oil Cruet: This was a simple yet gorgeous dispenser—but the exposed cork stopper became saturated after a couple of uses, which contributed to oiliness around the neck of the bottle. The thin metal around the spout also felt flimsy and easily bent. * Olipac Olino Olive Oil Dispenser: The stainless steel of the Olino was left smudged and slippery as oil dripped down the side after each pour, leaving a ring on the countertop. * Olipac Elegante Olive Oil Dispenser: This was the only dispenser with no air intake, which led to heavy glugging and made the oil flow hard to control. * Le Creuset Olive Oil Cruet: The model from Le Creuset was beautifully detailed, but the spout had both an internal air intake and a hinge-top flap. It made the oil flow hard to moderate and the bottle slippery, as oil dripped down the spout onto the stoneware base. * Crate and Barrel Oil Bottle: Although it was similar to the Zulay dispenser, this bottle had more dripping due to the hinge-top flap on the spout. * Rachel Ray Cucina Ceramics EVOO Bottle Dispenser: From the eccentric shape to the vibrant color, this model was a statement piece for the countertop. Unfortunately, its shape made it difficult to clean, plus it was awkward to hold and refill. * BergHOFF Leo Glass Oil Dispenser: The instructions that came with this dispenser indicated you should hold the spout with your finger as you pour to prevent it from coming out, which was a red flag in the design for me (not to mention, super uncomfortable to do). It also leaked steadily out of the air intake, which caused oil to pool on top of the stopper.
FAQsWhat is an oil cruet?A cruet (read: dispenser) is a small container used to hold liquids such as vinegar or oil that are meant to be drizzled. It usually has some sort of pour spout for directing the liquid and is often made of opaque or dark glass or ceramic to keep its contents fresh.
What is the best material for an oil dispenser?Great oil dispensers can be made out of a variety of materials, including glass, ceramic, or stainless steel. Transparent glass dispensers are best for everyday cooking oils that get used up quickly. Dispensers that are tinted or opaque can help keep more delicate oils (like extra-virgin olive oil) fresh longer.
What makes a good oil dispenser?A good oil dispenser should have a spout that does not leak or drip down the side, which can make the base slippery at first, then grimy over time. To prevent the oil from glugging out as it pours, the topper should have a hole for air intake that is separate from the pour spout.
Can oil go rancid in an oil dispenser?Yes. If left unused, oil can go rancid regardless of what it is stored in. Exposure to oxygen, heat, light, and moisture will speed up this process. To keep your oil as fresh as possible, only transfer what you can use within a week or two to your dispenser, then keep the rest in an airtight container in a cool, dark cabinet. Minimize exposure to heat by storing your countertop oil dispenser away from your stove.
How can you tell if oil is rancid?The amount of time it takes for oil to go bad depends on what type of oil it is and its exposure to light, heat, air, and moisture. Oils that are high in unsaturated fats like canola oil will spoil faster than more saturated ones. Most cooking oils can last for two years unopened and several months once opened. Regardless of the type of oil, the best way to tell if it is good or not is to smell it: if you notice an “off” sour or stale smell, that can be a sign that the oil has spoiled. Rancid oil can also have a bitter, sour, or metallic taste.
What is the best way to clean an oil dispenser?While many oil dispensers are dishwasher-safe, bottles with slim necks may not get fully cleaned that way. The most foolproof method to clean an oil dispenser is to use warm soapy water and a flexible bottle brush. You can also use a reusable straw brush to clean out smaller components, like the spout. Make sure to let your dispenser fully dry inside before refilling to prevent microbial growth and spoilage.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIconic in both aesthetics and performance, KitchenAid stand mixers have long been a favorite of Serious Eats editors and contributors—but they don’t come cheap. Whether you opt for a Classic, Artisan, or Professional model (our pick is the Professional 600 Series), the market’s most recognizable stand mixer is an investment.
Initially, this bodes well for frequent use. “When I have a KitchenAid mixer, I’ll use it constantly,” we insist prior to purchase, visions of whipped egg whites and perfectly taut bread doughs skittering through our minds. So, we buy. And we do use it! And we do love it! But, there are times in every baker's life when, simply and for whatever reason, you aren't baking a lot.
And this wouldn’t technically be a problem if it weren’t for the fact that stand mixers—KitchenAid models in particular—are little machines. They have moving parts and greased gears and a purposeful design meant to, you know, move around, so remaining in a state of disuse for too long can actually cause problems—including oil leaks. (Editor's note: one Serious Eats staffer has experienced their KitchenAid mixer leaking oil after it wasn't used for a few months—so we're not just theorizing here.)
Why Does Oil Separate in a KitchenAid Stand Mixer, and How Do I Prevent It?Fortunately, KitchenAid has excellent resource pages and is up-front about the fact that their stand mixers may, in fact, leak oil at some point.
“The mixer is packed with enough solid grease to last the lifetime of the machine,” KitchenAid’s product help pages read. “When the mixer is used, the grease is distributed around the gears to lubricate them.”
When the mixer is not used, however, that grease can separate and cause oil to settle into the lowest point of the motor. This oil separation can visibly manifest as drops in the mixing bowl (or on the base itself, if you don’t store your mixer with the bowl attached), or with oil leaking out of either the beater shaft or the levers that control mixing speed and the headlock position.
“This is more likely to happen in warm weather and if the mixer is not used very often,” KitchenAid says. “Using a mixer regularly may prevent this from occurring.”
In other words, it’s a good move to plug in your stand mixer and let it run briefly from time to time—every few weeks is better than nothing—even if you aren't baking with it. KitchenAid recommends bumping up the speed to 10 and letting things whirl around for two minutes before turning off the mixer and wiping down any errant oil drops that may have escaped the housing.
But, Alas! My KitchenAid Mixer is Leaking Oil—How Do I Fix It?Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreFirst off—don’t panic. KitchenAid uses only food-grade grease in their stand mixers and it’s totally safe should the oil come into contact with food. It might look kind of gross, but it shouldn't make you sick.
And, according to KitchenAid, oil separation doesn’t harm the mixer, either. It’s up to you whether you wish to do anything about it or not.
“It is not necessary to add oil to the mixer as regular maintenance,” the website says. “If the mixer sounds ‘normal’ and is not grinding, it can continue to be used.”
That said, if the idea of a drippy, oily mixer doesn’t align with your long-term ideals, the machine can be fixed—but it’ll need to be serviced by a proper KitchenAid service facility. If you’re experiencing oil separation in a stand mixer that's not from KitchenAid, contact your mixer’s manufacturer for next steps.
Oil separation can seem like a "Very Bad Thing," but it doesn’t have to spell the end of the road for your beloved mixer! Since prevention is the best cure, either vow to actually use your mixer more often, or at least get in the habit of switching it on for a couple of minutes every now and then to keep things nice and greased up. And, again, the fact KitchenAid's stand mixers are built like actual machines (with metal gears and inner workings and, yes, grease) speaks to their quality and power—two of the reasons we like them so much.
FAQsWhat’s the best KitchenAid stand mixer?Honestly, you can’t go wrong with any model. But if you want to spring for our favorite stand mixer, we’re big fans of the KitchenAid 6-Quart Professional 600 Series Stand Mixer.
Is a KitchenAid stand mixer worth it?Yes! While we can’t exactly speak to your usage habits, in our experience, by the time someone is at the point of seriously considering a KitchenAid stand mixer, it’s safe to say that the purchase is worth it. KitchenAid stand mixers are the industry standard with good reason—they look great and, more importantly, they’re real workhorses and can last a lifetime.
Who repairs KitchenAid stand mixers?To ensure optimal service and keep any warranties intact, reach out to KitchenAid as your first course of action should your stand mixer needs repairs.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikBefore air fryers and Instant Pots hit the scene, blenders and food processors reigned supreme. (Yes, we rhymed on purpose.) The two small kitchen appliances have been instrumental in both professional and home kitchens for decades—they blend, purée, emulsify, chop, grate, and pulverize faster and often more efficiently than the ol’ “chef’s knife and elbow grease” method. But although food processors and blenders both contain sharp, rapidly turning blades at the base of a jar or bowl, they excel at very different tasks. If you don't have either, whether you should buy a food processor or a blender depends on what you like to cook and how much you’re willing to spend, as well as which kitchen tasks you prefer to do by hand. However, we do recommend having both if you have the budget and space.
How Does a Food Processor Work?At its most basic, a food processor consists of a base (which contains a motor), a bowl, and a removable set of sharp blades. Most models come with interchangeable discs that perform other tasks, like grating—but more on that in a moment. When the bowl and blade are fitted to the base and the motor is running, the S-shaped blade turns rapidly—chopping, slicing, or shredding ingredients. When fitted with a disc attachment (for slicing or grating, for example), the disc spins around when the food processor's on, tackling ingredients as they're fed through the chute (food processors usually come with a pusher, to help you move ingredients through the chute and through the disc).
When Should You Use a Food Processor?Serious Eats / Russell KilgoreA food processor’s value lies within cooking tasks that are messy (like grating a bunch of cheese), large-scale (like plowing through a pile of potatoes for latkes), or both.
Food processors come with a variety of different attachments, so you can perform lots of tasks with them. In our review of food processors, we tested models that contained not just chopping blades, but slicers and graters; our top pick even had a unique attachment for making pizza dough. You can use a food processor for any job that would otherwise call for a box grater, mortar and pestle, or chef’s knife and cutting board (like making a large batch of mirepoix), which makes them super versatile and helpful…as long as you don’t mind lugging the heavy base out of storage and cleaning up the multiple parts.
Food processors are also regularly used for making pastry dough. This method is certainly quicker than using a handheld pastry cutter, although we’ve found it’s easy to overwork the dough, which can result in tough pie crusts, biscuits, or scones.
How Does a Blender Work?Blenders work by creating a vortex as their blades spin rapidly at the base of a jar. This vortex creates a vacuum effect, circulating the contents throughout the container. When the food is pulled down to the bottom, it makes contact with the whirling blades, which pulverize, purée, or emulsify it. Blender blades are sharp, but smaller than food processor blades—they’re also angled upwards to help create that crucial vortex.
When Should You Use a Blender?Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesHands-down (knives down?) a blender is better than a food processor at handling anything liquidy, like smoothies, as well as puréeing soupy or saucy items. Blenders perform best with at least a little liquid to get things going. Blenders are also more efficient than food processors at getting food incredibly smooth. For this, look to high-speed models, like Vitamixes, which annihilate pulp, fiber, and chunky bits.
Puréed soups are an ideal match for blenders for both of those reasons, but also because a blender jar is better suited for a greater quantity of liquid than a food processor bowl. Smoothies and blended juices excel in blenders (especially with ice or frozen fruit and vegetables, which are no match for the fast, multi-pronged blades).
An often overlooked but important reason to use a blender: the pour spout. Most blender models have a spout that allows the puréed ingredients to be neatly transferred to a different container—say, your favorite smoothie glass. Pouring a liquidy soup or sauce out of the wide bowl of a food processor is challenging at best, and messy at worst.
Can You Use a Food Processor as a Blender and Vice-Versa?Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWe’re entering “could” versus “should” territory here. Some jobs are interchangeable between blenders and food processors, but the bowl/jar shape, blade function, and design are ultimately too different to consider the tools completely equal.
Food processors can blend and purée ingredients, although they’re not ideal for that. For one, food-processed soup will never be as velvety smooth as blended soup. Another reason: most food processors’ max-fill line is very low; you’d have to purée your soup in a series of small batches, which is neither efficient nor time-saving. Instead, their wide bowls and S-shaped blades (that span nearly the entire diameter of the bowl) are better at handling thicker, drier ingredients (think blitzing chickpeas for hummus).
On the flip side, blenders can chop and grate ingredients, but they’ll never perform the task as well as food processors. Blenders sometimes struggle with tacky or gummy food, too (like peanut butter). But for anything liquidy or in need of being super smooth, reach for a blender.
Which Is More Expensive: A Food Processor or a Blender?Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesBoth tools vary widely in terms of cost, but no matter what, plan on spending at least a couple hundred dollars on a food processor or blender.
While there are plenty of blenders for under $100—including miniature or “personal size” blenders—we feel it’s worth paying for a high-speed blender, like the Vitamix 5200 (our favorite model). The cost lies in the beefy motor. Our favorite Vitamix model is by no means the most powerful on the market, nor the most high-end, and it retails for around $400.
Food processors are a little trickier to pinpoint a price. Typically, higher costs are associated with larger capacity bowls. For example, we liked two Breville models—one smaller, one larger. The 12-cup capacity costs $280, and the slightly snazzier 16-cup rings out at $550—quite the price jump.
Regardless of which appliance you buy, spending a little more for a trusted, powerful model—with a strong warranty—is money well invested.
Should You Buy a Food Processor or a Blender?The general guideline here is that a food processor is a good investment for cutting down on prep time, whereas a blender can help you make recipes that would be hard to replicate without it (like smoothies).
If you have the space and budget and would value the time-saving quality of a food processor, go for both. If you can only choose one, we recommend starting with a high-speed blender.
FAQsWhat’s the best food processor? We tested a lot of food processors to find the best one. You really can’t beat the Magimix 14-Cup Food Processor, which is powerful with well-designed chopping blades and large enough to be actually useful. It’s also the model with that nifty pizza dough attachment. However, it’s undeniably spendy; if you’re looking for a budget option that still delivers, we recommend the Cuisinart 14-Cup Processor. Breville’s 16-Cup and 12-Cup models also ranked high in our tests. Although smaller capacity models are attractively priced, they’re not great at handling large quantities of food, which cancels out one of the reasons we find them so valuable.
What’s the best blender?If you’re going to buy a blender, it’s worth investing in a high-speed one. In an extensive review of multiple blender brands, our favorite was the Vitamix 5200 Professional Grade Blender. If you’re looking for a smaller model, we also liked the Blendtec Designer Series.
Serious Eats / Eric KingAn offset spatula can be found in the tool kit of most every recipe developer, chef, and food stylist, but I’m willing to bet a lot of home cooks don’t have one. And for why! Why shouldn’t you be able to create ethereal swoops on a chocolate buttercream-covered birthday cake, or spread ultra-even, level layers of filling and frosting, or pry pristine muffins from their tins with ease?
An offset spatula is affordable, doesn’t take up a lot of space, and can be used to perform so many kitchen tasks. Really, half of the fun of buying one is seeing what utensils you find they replace in your routine.
What’s an Offset Spatula? Serious Eats / Eric KingSo, what's an offset spatula? Think of it like a butter knife (but thinner and more flexible) with a piece of stainless steel that’s about the length of its handle, or sometimes a little bit longer depending on the size. They usually come in lengths like four-and-half, eight, or 9 inches (the blade lengths) and even larger if you’re running a small bakery out of your home. What makes them “offset” is the two points where the blade bends at an angle: veering down once near the handle, then jutting out straight again to form a long, flat surface. This design makes it so that you can angle into baking tins to shimmy under brownies or frost a sheet cake without having to awkwardly angle your arm or wrist or damage your hard-won creations.
The blade rounds at the end, which not only makes for aesthetically-pleasing swoops when spreading, but also ensures an offset spatula's more gentle than an other spatulas (like an offset turner), whose sharp points can tear into the edges of freshly-baked cake layers. Their flexibility also helps them bend to sit flush with the edges of a tin to loosen a cake layer, or angle under pieces of sheet cake. Thanks to its design, when you hold it like you would a normal spatula, the blade wants to stay parallel to your work surface (or the top of whatever you’re working on) so you can produce even layers of dough, frosting, or filling. I use mine all the time for smushing and tamping shortbread and other doughs into a tin.
It’s the right tool for so many jobs, and after using it, you’ll wonder how you stumbled through many baking and cooking tasks without one. When I started as a baking content creator and recipe developer, my first offset spatula changed the game, making my bakes way easier—and better to look at.
What Can an Offset Spatula Be Used For? Here's a quick, non-exhaustive list:
- Spreading buttercream, whipped cream or other frostings on desserts
- Angling under brownies or muffins to lift them from their tin
- Lifting delicate things like cookies, roasted vegetables, or tofu from a baking sheet
- Getting perfectly smooth sides, or elegant swoops on frosted layer cakes
- Spreading peanut butter, jam, or other toppings on bread
- Making swirls in hummus as the perfect channels for olive oil
- Shimmying under rolled-out sugar cookie dough to transfer cutouts to a baking sheet
- Spreading a level layer of dough like shortbread into a tin
- Spreading filling evenly and easily for cinnamon rolls, babka, or in between cake layers
- Slicing and serving cake
- Flipping burgers
What's the Best Offset Spatula? While Serious Eats hasn't formally tested them, Ateco makes my favorite mini (4.5-inch blade) offset spatula. I like the angle of the offset, the flexibility of the metal, and that it takes up little drawer space. And at $7 (at the time of writing) it’s not a huge financial commitment. As for longer offset spatulas, I like the Williams-Sonoma Soft Touch 8-inch model because its silicone handle makes it super comfortable to use (and easy to clean in the dishwasher). And the large OXO Good Grips Bent Icing Spatula is an SE editor top pick.
FAQsShould I buy a small or a large offset spatula? Different sizes of offset spatulas have different strengths. In a bakery setting, larger models like the 8- or 9-inch blades (or bigger) help bakers speed up the process of transferring several items at a time from tray to cooling rack. But even if you want layer cakes with ultra-smooth sides at home, or you need a perfectly level sheet cake, a large offset spatula isn’t a bad thing to have on hand. As a matter of fact, I’ve used one to transfer a small layer cake that had been assembled, frosted, and chilled from my decorating stand to my display stand.
If I could only choose one size to keep, though, it would be my mini. It’s a workhorse that I’m constantly reaching for—and it doesn’t take up more room than a spoon or fork would.
What’s the difference between an icing spatula and an offset spatula?The offset spatula is the cousin (or more like sibling?) to the icing spatula, which is the same thing as an offset spatula, but with no bends. Some bakers like to use these when smoothing out the sides of a cake, or to make decorative striations in buttercream. However, they really can’t do anything an offset spatula can’t do—and offset spatulas can do way more thanks to the added benefit of their angled construction. This being said, some manufacturers do call offset spatulas “icing spatulas."
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI grew up eating sumac, though for most of my life I had no idea what the burgundy powder was called or just how powerful it can be. If there was a Middle Eastern dish on the table (which most nights, there was), it was almost always finished with sumac. My mom sprinkled it on everything from hummus to babaganoush, and it served as a colorful ingredient in a number of meat-based dishes. I ate it with gusto while simultaneously being oblivious to how essential the flavor was to whatever I was eating.
While sumac used to be an ingredient mostly unknown to a majority of Americans, it has since grown significantly in popularity. Its bright, tart flavor is an essential component of many Middle Eastern and Mediterranean dishes, but it's a versatile spice that can be used in a range of dishes and cooking styles.
The use of sumac goes back thousands of years, with foundations in both Levantine and Native American cuisines. To help us learn more about sumac—including what it is, where it comes from, and how to use it—we talked to Alyse Baca, culinary director at Spicewalla, Reem Assil, chef and founder of Reem’s California in San Francisco, Manal Nasan, founder of the spice company Re7het Falasteen, and author and agroecologist Gary Nabhan.
What is Sumac?Sumac is a small, fuzzy berry that grows in clusters on trees in the genus Rhus, which comes from the Anacardiaceae family—the same family as pistachios, cashews, mangoes, and mastic (a resin used in Greek, Turkish, and other Mediterranean foods). Sumac trees grow in the Mediterranean, Africa, Asia, and all over North America (there are even sumac trees in places like Central Park in New York City). However, sumac plants that yield white berries, or have red stems and shorter leaves are considered poisonous.
Serious Eats / Nadar MehravariThe name comes from the Arabic word “summaq,” which translates to “red.” Because various species of sumac are native to more than one continent, its exact origins are difficult to establish. Sources claim origins in Sicily, Turkey, and Iran, for example, and that's without acknowledging the separate story of North American species. “It's not really uncommon for a set of plants to rib the Mediterranean in the mountainous areas and then extend into the mountains further east,” says Nabhan, whose work focuses on links between biodiversity and cultural diversity.
The berry was used in both ancient and medieval Europe and around the Mediterranean not only as a spice, but as a dye and for medicinal purposes. The Romans also relied on sumac as a source of tanginess before lemons found their way into Europe. “There weren't lemons very early on in Europe, so sumac was a primary way to season most meats, fish, and vegetables with a sweet, sour, and tangy flavor,” says Nabhan.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIndigenous peoples in North America also used sumac to treat ailments, as well as to make a refreshing sumac “lemonade.” “In English, [it’s known as] the lemonade berry,” notes Nabhan of some species of the plant. He explains that sumac plants have been growing in North America for thousands of years, and although they are a different species from those found in the Mediterranean, their profiles are similar. Today, however, most commercially sold sumac has been imported from the Middle East.
Sumac is harvested, sun-dried, and can be purchased whole, but is more often sold ground as a seasoning. Ground sumac is made by grinding the berry—either using a machine or the more traditional method of stone-grinding—to a coarse, deep red powder.
Manal Nasan, who is familiar with sumac harvesting in Palestine, notes that some farmers mix their ground sumac with just a little bit of wheat flour to tame the sourness. In Palestine, they have a type of sumac called ballady, which is ground sumac in its purest form. “Ballady means authentic,” says Nasan. She notes that while they do sell both types in Palestine, the ballady version tends to be more expensive.
How to Buy and Store SumacWhile it used to be that you could only find sumac in specialty and Middle Eastern markets, in recent years, it’s more readily available at your everyday grocery store. However, you may still want to head to those specialty markets to make sure you’re getting the best quality product.
Whole sumac can be hard to come by, but you can purchase it online. When shopping for the ground spice, Alyse Baca advises looking for “that signature bright crimson color”—which indicates the berries were harvested at peak ripeness and ground relatively recently—and tasting it, if possible. “It should taste tangy and bright, with a strong floral aroma,” she says. Sumac is typically ground on the coarser side, which she prefers. "I think the coarseness creates a nice texture," she says, with the larger pieces releasing more flavor as you chew it.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezReem Assil echoes Baca’s notes about color. “That crimson, almost red to purple, eggplanty sumac is the best,” she says. “I don't want my chicken to look brown, I want it to look bright purple. People eat with their eyes, right?”
Like most spices, sumac should be kept in a cool, dark, and dry place like a cabinet or drawer. Good quality sumac will last up to a year before losing its flavor.
How to Cook With SumacIn addition to its Native American uses, sumac is often used across the Middle East and the Mediterranean, in places like Turkey and Greece, to season meat and vegetables. It’s a key ingredient in the Palestinian dish of msakhan, giving the onions their color, and is also an important component of za’atar. “It pairs well with anything that could use a little kick of acidity,” says Baca, making it incredibly versatile.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikThe spice is incredibly useful for adding tang and tartness to dishes without having to also add additional liquid like lemon juice to a dish, which makes it a great option as a flavoring in wetness-prone salads—many containing juicy ingredients like cucumbers and tomatoes—such as fattoush. “Not only does it add this beautiful color to things, but it adds an acidity without having to put a liquid in something,” says Assil.
Along similar lines, it's an ideal spice to be used as a garnish or finisher—a last little sprinkle for pops of flavor and visual impact. Whenever my mom makes hummus, she serves it in a shallow bowl and garnishes it with a decorative pattern of sumac, pickled cucumber, and olive oil.
Beyond its role as a flavoring agent, there is both anecdotal evidence and some research indicating sumac can be employed as a meat tenderizer, thanks to active enzymes that help break down tough connective tissue like collagen.
While there are plenty of traditional uses for sumac, it never hurts to get creative in the kitchen. Of course you can use it on everything from eggs and French fries to chips and popcorn, but its applications can go even further. “I love using sumac in baking,” says Baca. “The citrusy flavor works beautifully with berries.”
Assil has found yet another unconventional use for sumac by tossing candied pomelo rind in a mix of sumac and sugar to make a sweet-and-sour candied fruit.“I have a love for sour candy,” she says. “It almost takes the place of citric acid in the candied things. And it’s pretty, that hue of red.” Assil notes that sumac is also an excellent accompaniment to pomegranate seeds when tossed with them as a snack or a topping for salads and other dishes.
I can’t think of sumac without thinking about my mom’s home cooking, and that may be why it has so easily found a place in my spice cabinet. But now that I’m cooking in my own kitchen, I’ve learned just how far a sprinkle of sumac can go in almost anything that could use a bright, tart kick—the possibilities are endless.
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezMilk frothers are a great way to bring coffee shop quality milk foam into your home; you can make perfectly frothed café au lait, hot chocolate, or even matcha lattes from the comfort of your kitchen.
Out of the 20 models we tested, the Miroco Milk Frother was our top pick due to its solid performance and affordable price point. And while it was out of stock for a while, it’s finally back on the shelves at a (slightly) discounted price.
Why It Won Our ReviewThe Miroco impressed us with its ability to make creamy, long-lasting foam with both cold and warmed milk.Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezThe main test for any milk frother is how tight and small its foam bubbles are, which is what gives foam its silky consistency. During our testing, the Miroco produced microfoam that was similar in quality to commercial espresso machines. And it was capable of doing so with hot and cold milk.
Aerating milk involves whipping air bubbles into liquid to create a foam, but it’s usually heat that makes foam last: as milk heats up, proteins begin to denature, and the loose amino acid strands around the foam bubbles to give them structure. However, the Miroco created a silky foam texture in cold milk as well using the speed of its whisk, while other models struggled with this task. And with two different-sized whisk attachments, we could control if we wanted a small or large amount of foam, too.
We also appreciated its heating element and auto-shut-off feature, which killed the heat as soon as the milk hit 160ºF. The handle and spout made it easy to pour milk foam into your cup without any drips or spills, while many other milk frothers were just cylinders without an elongated spout, making them awkward (and messy) to pour from.
Good to Know * Normally $47, now $38 * Comes in black or stainless steel * Comes with two different-shaped whisk attachments for different foam amounts * Features an auto-shutoff when it hits 160ºF * Its one con is that it has an 8-ounce stated capacity, which is only enough for one serving
FAQsDoes the Miroco milk frother heat the milk?Some milk frothers only feature a whisk that aerates the milk, but the Miroco Milk Frother includes a heating element that heats the milk to 160ºF while it aerates. You can also use it to aerate cold milk, too, if you’re looking for cold foam.
Can you put other liquids in a milk frother? Though they were designed for milk, you can also add plant-based milk, or use it to mix matcha powder or hot chocolate mix into your beverage.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikOne of the most important tools in a cook’s arsenal is a good, sharp knife, and while some knife manufacturers would have you believe that the more money you spend on a knife, the sharper it will be, most knives come factory-sharpened (i.e. near-razor sharp). There are many other factors that contribute to how long a knife's blade stays sharp, including how you store it, the material of your cutting board (hint: stay away from glass), as well as the material and style of the knife (Japanese-style knives are often made of harder steel, which can dull faster than softer German-style knives, which bend and warp). And a big part of extending the shelf-life of your knives' edges is knowing when to hone or sharpen them. Sharpening and honing are both techniques used to maintain the edge of a knife, but they serve different purposes.
What Is Honing?Honing is used to maintain, straighten and align a knife's sharp edge, which can bend and warp with frequent use. It's pretty easy to do: just run the blade edge at a 15-to-20-degree angle down a honing steel (also known as a rod) an equal amount of times per side. Honing doesn't remove any metal from the blade; instead, it realigns the existing edge, resulting in a sharper-feeling, more precise blade. It also extends the length of time needed between actual sharpening.
How often you should hone your knives really depends on the amount of use they get. Chefs will often hone their knives daily, but they also do significantly more knife work than the average home cook. Once you get a sense of how sharp your knife normally is, you can get a feel for when it might be time to hone. Typically, a few swipes on the steel before every major cooking project is a good idea.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWhat Is Sharpening?Sharpening is used to restore a dull or damaged knife edge. This is typically done by removing metal from the blade by running it over a whetstone or through a manual or electric sharpener (though we very sparingly recommend the latter two). Since this process actually removes metal, we don't recommend doing it too frequently (twice a year is good for most home cooks), or it might eventually make your chef’s knife look like a filet knife.
How to Sharpen a KnifeSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThere are a few different ways to sharpen a knife, including pull-through manual or electric sharpeners, spinning grindstones, and whetstones. Pull-through sharpeners and grindstones are often avoided by professionals since a good amount of metal is removed, whittling away at your knife faster. According to Korin’s resident sharpener Vincent Kazuhito Lau, “The worst method of sharpening is to use a pull-through grinder/sharpener. These tend to grind more metal than necessary and will wear down the knife.” Instead, he recommends using a whetstone (as do we). "This allows you to create an ideal edge for the specific knife you are sharpening," he says.
Sharpening a knife with a whetstone is a special process that takes a bit of practice to get right. Whetstones are blocks of ceramic with different grits on the exterior (kind of like sandpaper). Running the edge of the blade over the pre-soaked whetstone shaves off microscopic bits of metal, which sharpens the bevel to a razor-thin edge.
Some specialty knife retailers (such as Korin) have professional sharpeners, like Kazuhito Lau, who use whetstones to manually sharpen the blade. It can be pricey, but it can be worth it if you’re intimidated to do it yourself.
The style of the knife can also dictate how you might want to go about sharpening it. A representative at Cangshan Cutlery, in Texas, broke it down for us:
“Each manufacturer uses different steel to make knives, and this creates metals that are harder or softer than each other. Harder steel (typically Japanese) has better edge retention but can be more brittle. These types of steel do not require as much honing, but may need to be sharpened more often. Softer metals (such as German steel) do require more honing/maintenance, but can be sharpened less frequently,” they said in an email.
So, if you find yourself in the market for a new knife, it could be helpful to consider these different styles' sharpening needs, especially if you're a whetstone newbie.
The TakeawaySerious Eats / Irvin LinAll this information can be a little overwhelming. To keep it simple: sharpen your knives twice a year (or pay a professional to sharpen them on a whetstone), and hone in between to maintain the blade's edge. Keeping the edge sharp also has a lot to do with storage and use, since any time the blade touches metal (or any surface really) the edge can dull, so we don’t recommend storing your knives in a drawer or a knife block. Instead, invest in a knife guard or magnetic knife strip (which also allows for easy access, not to mention it looks kinda cool to have your knives on display). Lau also recommends being picky about your cutting board, since certain materials (cough glass cough) can dull your knives faster.
FAQsWhat is the difference between honing and sharpening a knife?In short, sharpening is used to restore a dull or damaged edge by removing metal, while honing is used to maintain and straighten the edge (which can bend over time). It's good practice to hone a knife often to maintain the edge and only sharpen it when it becomes dull.
What is the best honing rod?There are a variety of materials used to make honing rods, so we have picks for each. For stainless steel, we like this model from Winware. We also like this ceramic model from Messermeister, and this diamond model from Messermeister. You can read more on which material is right for you here.
All you need to hone a knife is a good honing steel. The ideal honing steel is about 12 inches long with a decent-sized cross guard for protecting your hand.
Sharpening your knife can be done a few different ways, but we recommend using a whetstone. Follow our handy guide here for a step-by-step explanation.
What is the best way to sharpen a knife?We think the best way to sharpen a knife is with a whetstone. These blocks, which you soak in water prior to use, can be made of a variety of materials (ceramic, diamond), but the premise is the same: they are used to shave small bits of metal from your blade, which results in a sharp edge. Kenji has written about how to choose a whetstone and recommends buying one with a medium grit for major sharpening jobs, as well as one with a fine grit for fine-tuning.
How do I hone a knife? The simple way to hone a knife is to grasp the knife in your dominant hand and the honing steel in the other. Grip the handle of your steel and plant the tip onto a cutting board. Run the length of the knife at a 15-20 degree angle down the honing steel an equal number of times on each side for a total of about eight strokes.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm“Isn’t an air fryer just a miniature convection oven?” It’s a skepticism we’ve heard (and maybe even asked) as air fryers have enjoyed a meteoric rise in popularity.
Although we at Serious Eats are not usually swayed by trendy cooking gadgets, a recent in-depth test of 11 air fryers (that included cooking 30 pounds of French fries!) gave us some food for thought. While many models missed the mark due to uneven cooking or poor design, four standouts produced evenly browned, crispy food. So are air fryers worth it—even if you already have a convection oven? We think so!
What Is a Convection Oven?Although the term “convection oven” is often used, “oven with convection capabilities” is a little more accurate—most modern ovens for home use come with both regular and convection cooking options. This is possible because convection cooking uses a fan to more efficiently circulate air around the oven chamber. Want to cook with convection? It’s as easy as pressing a button. Prefer to use a regular bake or roast setting? Simply don’t turn on the fan.
In home convection ovens, the fan unit is located at the back of the oven (this is also the case for most convection toaster ovens). With convection, hot air cycles through the oven more rapidly, resulting in faster cooking and more even browning.
A quick note on convection toaster ovens, though: although this feature is popular in newer models, our testing showed it made only a marginal, if any, difference in cook time.
What Is an Air Fryer?Air fryers also use a fan to circulate hot air throughout a cooking chamber. But instead of oven racks, most air fryers are outfitted with perforated, nonstick, metal baskets. Although an air fryer will never make food as crispy and golden as traditional deep frying, the super-efficient heat distribution in a small chamber is a decent approximation; that likely explains why they were ultimately named “air fryers” as opposed to “miniature convection ovens.” Well, that and marketing.
The Differences Between Air Fryers and Convection OvensSerious Eats / Will DickeyThe two biggest differences between air fryers and convection ovens is size, speed, and versatility. An oven is, of course, a key piece of cooking equipment with the real estate footprint to prove it. Air fryers are small enough to be tucked away in a cabinet or pantry (or left on a countertop, if that’s the most space-efficient option for you). But there are a few other differences in terms of functionality.
Preheating CycleAll ovens, whether convection or regular, need to be preheated. Most convection ovens take around 20-25 minutes to preheat to 425˚F. Many air fryers boast about their lack of a preheat requirement, but some of the models we tested had a “built-in” preheat cycle in their programmed settings, so you’re still technically preheating. However, this preheating time is much, much shorter as there's a smaller chamber to heat. Our favorite model, the Instant Vortex Plus 6 Quart, had a built-in cycle that only took four minutes.
Cook TimeAir fryers cook food faster than convection ovens. For starters, there's that shorter preheat time. But because of their smaller cooing chambers, air fryers are also more efficient at circulating air around food, leading to faster cook times.
Temperature RangeConvection ovens have a pretty standard temperature range, usually beginning around 170˚F and maxing out at 500˚F or 550˚F. Convection ovens typically run about 25 degrees hotter than regular ovens. In other words, if a recipe written for a conventional oven calls for cooking at 375˚F, you can likely set the convection oven to 350˚F without fiddling with the cook time.
Although air fryers are sometimes mistakenly described as “high-heat” cooking, they are not any hotter than convection ovens. In fact, all of the winning models in our test had a maximum temperature of 400˚F. The low-end temperature range in favorite air fryers bottomed out at 95˚F, but most hovered around 100˚F. The temperature and cook time differences are why it's helpful to follow air fryer-specific recipes, rather than attempting to convert recipes meant for a standard oven.
Size and CapacityAir fryers have a smaller capacity than convection ovens: that’s why they cook food faster. On the downside, they struggle with more than four portions (conversely, a convection oven can cook food for a crowd, thanks to multiple racks and generous surface area). Although some of the air fryer models we tested boasted the capacity for six servings, we are dubious about this claim. The smallest air fryer we tested had a 3-quart capacity, which works just fine for one to two servings. The larger models we tested were around six quarts, which was good for three to four people. However, we can’t complain too much about capacity: an air fryer’s smaller cooking area is, again, what makes it so efficient.
Presets and ControlsSerious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmNo doubt about it, with knobs and electronic displays, air fryers have more “gadgety” features than ovens. Most air fryers come with programs for cooking common food items (one of our winning models had a slightly cluttered display; there were even separate presets for fish and shrimp). Thankfully, with all air fryers we tested, you can override preset options and simply set the temperature and cook time yourself.
Convection ovens don’t, traditionally, have presets. (Toaster ovens with convection options usually have at least a few). But, why would they?
Do You Need an Air Fryer If You Have a Convection Oven?We genuinely like air fryers. Now, if you have an oven and a stovetop, you’ll be able to cook just about any recipe you encounter. But cooking isn’t just about necessity, and plenty of home cooks use air fryers as a supplement to their traditional kitchen equipment. Air fryers are easier to clean up than stovetops because fat splatter is contained within the unit. And plenty of folks give enthusiastic praise about air fryers’ ability to cook with less oil. They’re also great at reheating leftovers that don’t do so well in the microwave (ahem: pizza).
Perhaps the better question is, “Do you need an air fryer if you have a toaster oven?” And hang tight on that one—we’re currently testing toaster ovens with air-frying capabilities.
FAQsWhat’s the best air fryer? After testing the most popular air fryers on the market, we found four winners. The Instant Vortex Plus 6 Quart Air Fryer consistently cooked super crispy, golden food faster than other units. The Ninja 4 Quart Air Fryer is a high-performing model with a tidy price of $100, and if you prefer analog mode with your kitchen technology, you’ll likely appreciate the preset-free Philips Kitchen Appliances Premium Digital Air Fryer. You can read more about each of these units—and the rest we tested—here.
Is an air fryer or a convection oven better?Although air fryers and convection ovens use the same technology, neither is better (you wouldn’t ask a parent about their favorite child, would you?). Air fryers are faster and easier to clean. Convection ovens can cook larger portions and do a lot more than a standalone air fryer unit. If you have the storage space and like kitchen gadgets, you will probably enjoy having an air fryer.
Serious Eats / Chloe JeongWe (unsurprisingly) think food is a wonderful way to care for the ones you love. But, alas! You’re down to the wire for Valentine’s Day and don’t know quite what to get, what with the limited amount of things that’ll even come on time. So, we put together 14 of our favorite last-minute, food-related gifts (14 for the 14th, aren’t we clever). We included gift cards, things you’ll (probably) have to hop into your car to go get, and even some gear that’s won our equipment reviews that currently has Prime shipping (use your best judgment, though—depending on your area shipping times may be different).
A New Carbon Steel Skillet (with a Promise to Season it for Them)Nothing says “our love has many layers'' like a sturdy carbon steel pan, especially after you promise to build up a few layers of seasoning for them. We recently reviewed carbon steel skillets, and found that this model from Mauviel offered a comfortable handle and spectacular performance.
A Month (Or Two) of Jasper Hill Cheese ClubSince shipments are sent the second or third week of every month, a subscription to the Jasper Hill Cheese Club is a wonderful way to say “of course I didn’t forget to go present shopping!” Each month brings the subscriber three different cheeses, favorite pairings, cheese tools, or “other sweet merchandise,” Jasper Hill says.
A New Baratza Grinder + A Mistobox Subscription (For Beans!)Having your partner bring you coffee in bed is truly wonderful, and if you gift them a new coffee grinder and bean subscription, it could maybe (if you’re lucky) be a gift for you, too. The Baratza Encore is our favorite high-performance budget grinder, and Mistobox features subscription options for dozens of roasters. Currently the black Encore is available for Prime two-day shipping.
A Batch of Quick, Sous Vide Vanilla Extract and Baking Tools Tied with a BowIf you want to say “nothing is sweeter than our love,” gifting a baking set is a nice way to let your loved one try and prove it. We love the GIR spatula and whisk for folding, whisking, and scraping batters, and with our sous vide vanilla extract recipe ready in hours rather than days, you can pull the kit together quickly. Just maybe avoid steering them towards our recipe for gâteau basque: it’s probably better not to try and measure your relationship up to that perfect desert.
A Set of Pasta Bowls, a Bag of Their Favorite Noodles, and a Bottle of Really Great Olive OilWhy not set yourself up for a gorgeous pasta dinner with some of our favorite pasta bowls from Sweese. The porcelain adds a high-end feel while making the pasta the star of the plate. Pair the bowls with a nice olive oil and a fancy bag or box of pasta (of their favorite shape, of course).
A Set Of Stacking Bodega Wine Glasses (And A Bottle to Go with Them)Who says date night has to be fussy and fancy? Grab a bottle of wine from your local shop, and cozy up to a nice puzzle or a movie at home with some short pours in these Bormioli Rocco Stackable Bodega Glasses. They’re sturdy, reliable, and a great casual way to share wine with a loved one, or a whole crew, should you decide the movie is boring and invite people over for an impromptu get together.
A Wine Decanter and Some Nice GlassesThere are times, and some wines, that do call for nice glassware. Experienced sommeliers helped us pick out these Riedel Vinum Grand Cru wine glasses as an excellent universal glass option, and when it’s a special occasion (Valentine’s Day comes to mind), why not pick up something high-end and decant it? This option from Riedel is well-priced and well-made, leaving more money to splurge on a bottle for the evening.
A Powerful, Long-Lasting BlenderNothing says “our love will last forever” like a kitchen appliance that nearly does. With the Vitamix 5200 Professional-Grade Blender and its 7-year full warranty, you’ll be making smoothies and blending soups together for years to come. It’s been our top pick for many years.
A Full Cocktail Kit (And the Goods To Make Their Favorite Drink)A well-made cocktail shows care and attention, so why not stock their bar and their barware? Build a perfect cocktail kit with a OXO Good Grips Mini Angled Measuring Cup, Crafthouse by Fortessa Stainless Steel Twisted Bar Spoon, and Cocktail Kingdom Usagi Cobbler Shaker, and surprise the giftee with everything to make their favorite cocktail as well. You can even pick up some pointers for better execution.
Pay for Their Favorite Knives to Be Professionally SharpenedSometimes, the most beautiful words you can tell your partner are “don’t worry, I hired a professional.” When it comes to sharpening knives, sending them off to a service like Carisolo Knife Sharpening means that their prized blades will have a new edge—a gift that keeps on giving.
The Best Cookbooks of Last Year Last year was an amazing year for cookbooks, and most of our editor’s selections are available to ship fast or at a local bookstore. We suggest picking out a few of our favorites and, perhaps, tying them together with some kitchen twine. It's rustic wrapping! It's a last-minute hit!
A Gift Card to Their Favorite Local or Not-So-Local PotterSometimes the best gifts are the ones you don’t have to decide on. With a gift card to East Fork Pottery, you can let your loved one make the call on what mugs, plates, or bowls they want to buy. (You could also support a local potter.) We’re personally big fans of East Fork’s The Coupe plate in eggshell.
A Gift Card to the King Arthur Baking School (and Some Tools To Go With It)A gift card from King Arthur flour (to use for a baking class!) is a lovely idea. We like the idea of a virtual baguette making class especially. Add a OXO Bench Scraper and Unicook Heavy Duty Ceramic Pizza Grilling Stone from our baguette tools round up for some bonus points. Either way, the gift card will allow your partner to browse classes first, and you can work on supplying them with what they need later, making this a great last-minute option.
A Petty Knife Paired with a Local Knife Skills ClassThere’s no better way to tell your partner “I just fall to pieces around you” like gifting them a class that teaches them how to break down a whole chicken with their new Tojiro DP Petty/Utility Knife. It’s nimble, sharp, and well-balanced.
FAQsWhat can I do last minute for Valentine's Day?There are many different options for last-minute Valentine's Day gifts, focusing on fast shipping or experiences or gift cards. Quick-to-arrive kitchen items are a great way to have something you can wrap, but gifting an experience or gift card can help you if you're really down to the wire and need something fast.
What do you get someone for their kitchen for Valentine's Day?There are lots of romantic kitchen gifts for home cooks, like a new cookbook or carbon steel skillet (with a promise to season it for your giftee). You can find more of our gift recommendations here.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmI’m not going to say countertop, electric composters have become my beat here at Serious Eats, but the Lomi Composter is the second one I’ve reviewed (to be clear, there aren’t many out there—the other prominent one is the Vitamix FoodCycler.)
Lomi’s manufactured by Pela—a certified B corporation that makes eco-friendly phone cases, amongst other things. To test the Lomi, I used it for a period of six months, like I did with the FoodCycler. I threw food scraps into it daily, ran it as needed, cleaned it periodically, and became frustrated with the lid more times than I can count. However, all-in-all, huzzah! I did really like the Lomi…with some caveats.
What’s the Lomi and How Does It Work? The Lomi has three modes, though we used Grow Mode the most.Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmThe Lomi is all-white and modern-looking, as far as countertop composters go. It works by applying heat to food scraps to break them down over a period of hours and then dries them out, so you get an end result that looks like dirt but Pela calls “fertilizer.” The Lomi has three modes, which have different purposes:
- Eco Express: With this mode “waste shrinks considerably, and is perfect for adding to your compost or green bin.” Per the manufacturer, this takes three to five hours (I found this to be true, though think five hours is more accurate).
- Grow Mode: This takes 16 to 20 hours and results in a “nutrient rich organic fertilizer” that can be “mixed into soil (1:10 ratio) and added to houseplants, gardens, or even your lawn,” Pela says. (This mode operates at the lowest heat setting of all three to “conserve microbes.”)
- Lomi Approved Mode: This takes five to eight hours and “can break down Lomi Approved products and packaging (such as bioplastics) into dirt that can then be placed in your green bin,” according to the company.
If you’re like me and your city does not offer green bins and you don’t have an outdoor composter, the grow mode is probably the better option. The Lomi also comes with activated charcoal to help mitigate smells and LomiPods, which look like little pills and are meant to add nutrients to the final fertilizer and speed up composting.
The GoodThe Lomi has two inserts for activated charcoal (one at its back and the other in its interior), which we thought helped to effectively mitigate smells.Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmThe Lomi thoroughly ground and dried every single food scrap I threw into it. Spent lemon halves, avocado shells, banana peels, coffee grinds, butternut squash seeds, onion peels, and more were no match for the Lomi. And the types of foods that shouldn’t go into the Lomi (i.e. liquids, nut shells, fruit pits) make sense, unlike the Vitamix FoodCycler that, perplexingly, can't handle items like citrus peels. The Lomi also has handy charts here that outline what should and shouldn’t go into it—and some foods that are better suited to Lomi’s different modes.
The Lomi also has a half-liter larger capacity than the FoodCycler and can handle a maximum of three liters of food. I found it took me about two days to fill when I was cooking a lot, and three to four days when I was cooking a little (it happens).
I also liked its modern look and appreciated its streamlined design that consisted of a single-button control panel with icons that denote the mode and a progress bar that shows you what stage the Lomi’s at (drying, mixing, cooling). And its charcoal inserts effectively contained smells.
The BadThe lid's unlocked/locked positions were clearly labeled, but locking the lid was finnicky at times.Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmI alluded to the lid above, as I found its design frustrating at times. With the lid, you twist to lock it down and onto the Lomi, and there are indicators on the side of the lid to show which positioned is unlocked versus locked. However, the lid was finicky and tough to lock at times, requiring precise alignment for it to close properly. Sometimes, it took me multiple tries. And it wasn’t just me: I watched a handful of others struggle to right it too.
It’s also worth noting that the Lomi is huge. Unlike the FoodCyler that comes with a separate compost bin lid so you can house the bulky machine body elsewhere and just keep the bin in your kitchen, the Lomi doesn't have this. Instead, the whole machine has to stay on your countertop. And measuring about 18 inches long by 13 inches wide by 12 inches high, and weighing about 20 pounds, it eats up a lot of space.
One final con is its price: the Lomi is about $500, and its refill pods and charcoal are $50. The pods and charcoal last 45 cycles, the company says. In no way is the startup or maintenance cost what I’d call affordable.
The Verdict The Lomi works exceptionally well at its intended purpose. I liked that it has three modes for those looking to compost for different intentions and think it’s worth buying with some caveats (size, price). That is, if you have a lot of countertop space and are comfortable investing the startup cost (as well as in the refill pods and charcoal), you’ll likely be very happy with the Lomi.
Key Specs Dimensions: Approximately 18 inches long by 13 inches wide by 12 inches high * Weight: About 20 pounds * Stated capacity: 3 liters * Shortest stated run time: 3 hours * Longest stated run time: 20 hours * Care instructions: Wipe down exterior and lid with a damp cloth (lid should not go in the dishwasher); compost bucket is dishwasher-safe * Price at time of publish:* $500
FAQsWhere do you buy the Lomi composter? The Lomi composter is available directly from the retailer, as well as Amazon.
How long does the Lomi take to compost? This depends on the mode you suggest on the Lomi. The fastest mode, Eco Express, takes three to five hours. The slowest mode, Grow Mode, takes 16 to 20 hours.
How much is a Lomi composter? The Lomi itself is about $500. The refills for its charcoal and Lomi pods are about $50 and will last 45 cycles, according to the company.
Most humans, by nature, are undoubtedly nosy, and we here at Serious Eats will be the first to admit that curiosity drives a lot of what we do. There's a particular joy that comes from seeing how other people live—their relationships, their homes, even their routines. (Just look at the flood of social media content dedicated to how influencers organize their bathrooms or get ready for the day).
So, in this vein, we decided to do our own version of peaking into the bathroom cabinet and asked our editors to share pictures of the arguably the most essential part of every kitchen: their spice cabinets. From tidy and chaotic to pristinely labeled and carefully stacked, the Serious Eats team's approach to spice organization truly runs the gamut. Unsurprisingly, all of the team's cupboards are stocked with ingredients that make us even more excited about cooking. So for this edition of Into the Spice Cabinet, here's an inside look at the most well-stocked part of our kitchens.
Daniel GritzerMy absolute favorite spices of all are coriander seed and cardamom; to me, there's no such thing as too much of either (which is something I need to be mindful of when developing recipes, since a lot of people aren't quite as extreme about them). In recent years, my spice cabinet has been full of products from Burlap & Barrel; the quality is great, they pay equitable prices to farmers, and Ethan, one of the co-founders, is also a friend who lives in my neighborhood, so I'm happy to support them. I've ripped through their wild mountain cumin, cloud forest cardamom (reminder to self: need to order more), and "silk chili," which is their Aleppo pepper offering. Beyond that, and without cataloging everything in my pantry, I also rely a lot on both basic Hondashi as well as dashi tea bags like these (oh, and the shichimi togarashi and sansho pepper powder are amazing). As for my spice pantry itself, as you'll see, it's a mess. A couple years ago I did a big organization project of my pantry, and I had everything neatly arranged and organized in containers, but it's slowly spiraled out of control as I've bought more and more products without the space to hold them. For now, it's just going to have to stay like that. —Daniel Gritzer, senior culinary director
Jacob DeanWe have a huge range of spices in our kitchen, most of which are from the direct-to-consumer company Burlap & Barrel. Their spices are, in my eyes, unparalleled, and I am particularly in love with their Royal Cinnamon, Wild Mountain Cumin, and Purple Peppercorns. But we also have things like whole avocado leaves from Masienda, Sichuan peppercorns from The Mala Market, and Mexican oregano and whole (and powdered) chiles from Rancho Gordo. We also have a huge range of salt (both sea salt and mined) from a variety of countries, as it's a thing we seek out whenever we travel. —Jake Dean, updates editor
Genevieve YamMy spice cabinet is filled with a range of spices from Diaspora Co., Burlap & Barrel, Oaktown Spice Shop, and Kalustyan's here in New York City. I bake a lot, so you'll always find vanilla beans, vanilla paste, vanilla sugar, and cinnamon in my pantry. A friend introduced me to chaat masala, a blend that includes amchoor (powdered dried green mango) and kala namak (a black salt with a savory, funky flavor), and now I use it to season all my favorite snacks: nuts, chips, and popcorn galore! Like Daniel, I rely a lot on dashi tea bags, and I make sure to keep bonito flakes on hand so I can whip up a batch of miso soup whenever I want. I also keep a variety of seeds—fennel, poppy, caraway, nigella—so I can make my favorite crackers from Gail's Bakery in London. Oh, and for everyday cooking: Burlap & Barrel's Purple Stripe Garlic Powder is my favorite. It just adds an incredible depth of flavor. This unfortunately does not all fit into my spice cabinet and a lot of it lives in my linen closet, which I've turned into a pantry! —Genevieve Yam, culinary editor
Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmMany of the spices I have are bought at Whole Foods, purchased when I realize I've run out (or don't have) something while shopping for a recipe. However, I do have a handful of favorite things I seek out: peppercorns from Kalustyan's (I currently have their Tellicherry peppercorns), spices from Spicewalla (I love their turmeric, curry powder, and sumac), spice mixes from Spiceology (their blends are especially fun come grilling season—I like to use them for chicken wings cooked in my Traeger), and vanilla extract and paste from Heilala. We featured the latter in our guide to aromatic vanilla extracts, so I feel validated! —Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, commerce editor
Grace KellyHaving just moved—which entailed throwing a lot of old foodstuffs away—my spice cabinet has been distilled to only include the ones I most frequently use (okay, and a few oddball additions I couldn't bring myself to give up—looking at you, pickling spice!). And one old reliable, a spice I use very often (enough to buy a bulk bag of from Patel Bros) is cumin. Growing up, my mom would put cumin in tons of dishes, and I've followed suit with cumin-spiked chilis, curries, stir fries, and even bean soup. You'll also find whole black peppercorns for everyday cooking, juniper seeds and wormwood from a vermouth-making stint, and—embarrassingly—everything bagel spice mix. But before you judge, know it was actually for making bagels! I also recently got a jar of Aleppo pepper from a local specialty foods shop, and I sprinkle it on pretty much anything, but most especially enjoy it on my morning hard-boiled egg. —Grace Kelly, associate commerce editor
Jesse RaubAdmittedly, our spice drawer is a total mess, but we love it anyway. We like to keep both whole and ground spices on hand depending on what might work better for a particular recipe, and we're big fans of having Penzeys spices, located in Wisconsin, for easy access to fresher milled cumin than what's normally at a grocery store. We use cumin in almost everthing we cook, and sometimes ground cumin is just better at working the aroma and flavor into the base of the dish. I also like keping dashi packets and Yawataya Isogoro shichimi togarashi that my brother sends me from Japan—it's super convenient to have both on hand for when we need a quick flavor boost. The last spice I wanted to highlight isn't in this drawer, and that's because we keep it next to the salt by the stove: Aleppo pepper. Its soft, fruity heat is just too tempting to not sprinkle on most things we cook. —Jesse Raub, commerce writer
Yasmine MaggioI recently moved back in with my parents as a temporary venture, and while it’s been an adjustment, the one thing I’m most excited about is using their kitchen. Aside from it being fully stocked with equipment my tiny New York City apartment couldn’t fit, their spice cabinet is also loaded with so many spices that it’s practically overflowing. The main flaw? My mom, the home-cooking queen, uses scent to identify many of the spices, and even after my attempts to label everything, she’s reluctant to follow suit whenever a new spice enters the mix. Until I train my own nose, I need her close by most times I cook, but the trade off is worth it for the ingredients she has available—we're talking everything from Lebanese tahini to Palestinian za'atar and whole allspice (my mom much prefers keeping whole spices on hand and grinding them every time she cooks).
I’ve also incorporated my own spices since I’ve been back, including Burlap & Barrel’s Aleppo pepper and black Urfa chili, which are my favorites to add to almost anything. (As other staffers have mentioned, the brand's spices are top notch, and I've recently started gifting them to other food-loving friends.) And it never hurts to have Fly by Jing’s Sichuan chili crisp on hand for an extra boost of flavor for anything from eggs to quesadillas. —Yasmine Maggio, associate editor
Vicky WasikWhat's game day without a big plate of juicy wings? While we have no shortage of wing recipes to choose from, we're not just going to plop a plate of them on the table and call it a day. In the interest of sparking inspiration and helping plan out a more well-rounded game day (or any day!) table, we've put together a list of sides to serve next to the main event. With recipes like crispy onion rings, creamy potato salad, and Korean corn cheese, they might just steal the show!
Perfect Thin and Crispy French FriesVicky WasikThe McDonald's–style fries of your dreams can easily be made at home. Employing the double-fry method gives the fries a perfectly crisp exterior.
Classic Potato SaladSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergTangy, salty, and sweet potato salad with a texture that's simultaneously creamy, crunchy, and fluffy in each bite.
Crispy Baked Potato WedgesVicky WasikCrunchy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, oven fries don't have to be forgettable.
3-Ingredient Stovetop Mac and CheesePhotographs: Vicky Wasik. Video: J. Kenji López-AltThis stovetop mac and cheese uses fewer ingredients than the boxed version but comes together in the same amount of time.
Classic ColeslawLiz ClaymanThis creamy, tangy slaw stays crunchy thanks to a little moisture management.
Crispy Deep-Fried Jalapeño PoppersSerious Eats / Qi AiFried jalapeño poppers with shatteringly crisp exteriors, and a melted cream cheese filling—what's not to like?
Foolproof Onion RingsJ. Kenji Lopez-AltThese are the crispiest, lightest onion rings you'll ever taste, thanks to a mixture of flour and cornstarch mixed with vodka and beer, which limits gluten formation.
Homemade Tater TotsVicky WasikMaking tots from scratch provides the opportunity to customize them with a plethora of flavor combinations.
Extra-Crunchy Potato ChipsSerious Eats / Vicky WasikPotato chips should offer pure, unadulterated, greasy (and we mean that in a good way), salty potato flavor—and this recipe delivers.
Tangy and Creamy Macaroni SaladVicky WasikThis recipe takes the standard macaroni salad and gives it a depth and tang that makes it stand out in a crowd.
Creamy Cucumber SaladLynn WolstedA crunchy, creamy cucumber salad made with tahini, lemon, and fresh dill is a refreshing accompaniment to juicy wings.
The Best Caesar SaladDiana ChistrugaThe crowd-pleasing salad of crisp romaine leaves, crunchy croutons, and anchovy can easily be adjusted to your tastes.
Blistered-Tomato Pasta Salad With BasilDaniel GritzerHere we give classic pasta salad a thoughtful upgrade by cooking the tomatoes just until bursting, so that they release their rich juices into a flavorful sauce that coats the pasta even when cooled.
Homemade Cheez-ItsVicky WasikThis DIY version of the classic has a deep, nutty, grilled cheese sort of vibe.
Easy Pull-Apart Pepperoni Garlic KnotsTo make an easy recipe even easier, you can use store-bought pizza dough in place of homemade in this crowd-pleasing recipe.
Cuñapes/Pão de Queijo (South American Cheesy Bread)Vicky WasikCheesy bread goes by many names, but no matter what you call it, we can all agree that it's absurdly good.
Korean Corn CheeseVicky WasikThe savory funk of doenjang and the sharp bite of hot mustard balance the sweetness of corn and richness of melted mozzarella in this classic Korean dish.
Crispy Kimchi Cheese RiceVicky WasikTurn leftover rice into this crispy-chewy rice that's made with gooey cheese and finished in a cast iron skillet.
Fried Plantain ChipsTim ChinIn Central American countries these chips are typically seasoned lightly with salt or chile powder and lime juice, but there's nothing stopping you from experimenting with additional seasonings.
Serious Eats / Chloe JeongHere’s a fact I know from wearing shoes all my life: shoe preference is highly subjective. What works great for one person, may not work for another. There’s a whole bunch of science behind this relating to things like feet dimensions, leg angles, skeletal alignment, and perceived levels of cushioning (that’s even an acronym—PLC!).
This is why, when evaluating whether or not to formally review the best kitchen shoes, we decided instead to pose the question to Serious Eats staffers, to gather subjective answers on a subjective question.
That said, there are a few things to look for in a good pair of kitchen shoes.
The Criteria: What to Look for in Kitchen ShoesBecause kitchens are full of very sharp things (knives!) and hot things (boiling water! scalding oil!) that can fall onto the floor and therefore your feet, kitchen shoes should offer protection. They should have a closed toe and be able to be slipped off lest something does fall or splash onto your feet. They should also be comfortable to wear: if you’re standing on your feet for hours and hours at a time (like we do in the test kitchen), you want something supportive. They should be non-slip, too.
Here are some staff-favorite kitchen shoes. (And, yes, you’ll find some conflicting answers because, again, subjectivity!)
Dansko Wynn“Even though my home kitchen is less hazardous than a restaurant, I often cook without proper foot protection, which is both foolish and something I don’t recommend. So when I was offered the chance to try out a pair of Dansko kitchen shoes as part of a company product test, I immediately signed up. Turns out they’re wonderful, and something I should have purchased years ago. Unlike the flip-flops I would otherwise be wearing, the Dansko Wynns are comfortable for long periods, extremely grippy, and offer closed-toe protection. Dansko also has a great reputation, and I’ve been told I can expect these shoes to last for multiple years.” — Jacob Dean, updates editor
Calzuro Classic Clog“I've owned these shoes for a couple of years now and wear them for gear testing and general cooking at home. They have a supportive heel, side vents, and bumps on the foot bed that are somewhat massaging, but mostly keep you from slipping and sliding around. I like that they don't have a back, which allows me to slip them on and off with ease. In fact, Calzuros were designed for surgeons and can even be sterlized in an autoclave. Though, at home, your could throw them in your dishwasher or washing machine.” — Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, commerce editor
Crocs Bistro Graphic Clog“Back when I was a fresh-faced prep cook, I bought a pair of these Bistro Crocs to sooth my soles during long hours spent standing. There were two reasons I chose them: first, I already owned a pair of Croc Classic sandals that I wore all the time in my home kitchen (I know, I know, it’s bad to have exposed toes in a kitchen but I stand by these! They are easily the most comfortable pair of shoes I own!), and second, they were much cheaper than other shoe brands. And they turned out to be a fantastic pair of kitchen shoes (minus the fact that they were white, which was a rather puzzling decision on my part. Oh well.); they were cushy, nice and wide (no pinched toes or heel blisters), supportive (and I have a very high arch), and surprisingly durable. Plus, while Crocs are divisive as a fashion trend, most people won’t really look at your feet while you’re cooking.” — Grace Kelly, associate commerce editor
Dansko Professional Clog-Slip“I have owned multiple pairs of Danskos over the past decade or so of working in kitchens. They're sturdy, supportive, easy to clean, and made to last a few years, which is great given the higher price point. I love the range of colors, but am a big fan of the honey distressed ones. Even though I no longer cook professionally, I find myself wearing them a few times a week: to pick up my kids from school, run errands, take out the trash, or just walk around my yard.” — Kristina Razon, former editor
Birkenstock Amsterdam Felt Clog“In the winter, I switch to these felt clogs. I love the classic supportive Birkenstock footbed and the added warmth of a felt upper in the fridgid months. They're not quite as easy to keep clean (on bread mixing days I have to get the flour off of them), but there aren't any alternatives with a neutral heel, wide footbed, and warm upper to wear around my drafty, old house.” — Jesse Raub, commerce writer
Birkenstock Women’s Super-Birki“These are pretty indestructible and easily wiped clean. I wear them during extra-long days (read: eight, 9 hours) testing gear. While I love my Calzuros, these have less of a heel and, some days, that’s what I want as someone who’s admittedly prone to rolling their ankles.” — Riddley
None“I used to wear proper Dansko kitchen footwear when I cooked in restaurants, and from time to time I'll still put that pair on in the test kitchen, but the soles have always felt too narrow for my feet, and it wasn't uncommon for my ankles to twist in them, so they're not a pair I can recommend fully. Now that my kitchen time is either in a home kitchen or a test kitchen that's exactly like a home kitchen, I'll usually just wear whatever comfortable shoes I've put on for the day or...no shoes at all. That said, from a safety perspective, here is what is best: nonslip, hard, closed-toe shoes that are non-porous (so a spill of hot liquids is less likely to seep into the shoe and burn your feet and a dropped knife is less likely to skewer you between the metatarsals), with an easy-off open back so that if hot liquid does get inside, you can pop your foot out as quickly as possible. And, if you're going to be on your feet all day, the more support, the better.” — Daniel Grizter, senior culinary director
FAQsHow do you clean kitchen shoes?The best way to clean kitchen shoes depends on the shoes. For example, these Dansko’s should be wiped with a clean, damp cloth and then treated with leather conditioner. These ones from Calzuro can be machine washed, disinfected with bleach, or even thrown into a dishwasher. And these Crocs can be hand-washed with soap and water or tossed in the washing machine. The bottom line: just check the manufacturer’s care instructions.
Where can I buy kitchen shoes?Many kitchen shoes are available on Amazon or can be purchased directly from the manufacturer/brand. For the shoe’s we’ve highlighted above, we tried to include both options.
Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperelin-SchirmWhen we published our air fryer review, we got some comments about how air fryers are 1. gimmicky and 2. the same as a standard, convection oven. However, we think both of these points are untrue. A standalone, basket-style air fryer will perform differently than a convection oven and even an air fryer toaster oven. Here’s why.
How Do Air Fryers Work? And Why Is It Worth Getting One?Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmFirstly, air fyers are not fryers at all. They are small convection ovens. Essentially, a convection oven has a fan that blows hot air around for more efficient, even cooking. “That doesn't mean an air fryer and the convection setting on a home oven range are the same in terms of performance—far from it,” says senior culinary director Daniel Gritzer. “What gives air fryers the convection an edge is their efficiency: an air fryer has a much smaller cooking chamber compared to an oven range relative to their fan sizes. This means an air fryer can heat up much more quickly (often eliminating the need for a pre-heating phase), and it's able to blast the hot around around at a much greater rate.”
Paired with a perforated basket for all-over air circulation, this results in quicker cooktimes, faster browning, and more all-over crisping. Hence, the “frying” part of air fryer. Air-fried food will never be deeply crunchy like something out of a deep fryer, but, instead, as nicely browned as a convection oven probably can get it (that is, if you get a good air fryer). “In short, air fryers roast better, more evenly, and more quickly than most oven ranges,” Daniel says. Even an air fryer toaster oven isn’t an compact as a basket-style air fryer, so the oven will need to preheat longer and, often, won’t brown or crisp as thoroughly.
What Are the Downsides to an Air Fryer? Serious Eats / Riddley Gemperelin-Schirm Well, like any small electric, countertop appliance, air fryers eat up space (in your kitchen and/or storage). Air fryers also aren’t nearly as big as you might think. Even larger, 6-quart models best serve four people maximum, while smaller, 4-quart models are really suited for two to three people. If you were cooking for a crowd, you’d have to do things in batches. However, as Daniel says, “that's the whole point, because it's that small capacity that allows the fan to be so effective.”
So, What’s the Best Air Fryer? As we found when we tested air fyers, not all models offer the same usability and performance (surprise—kidding!). Our favorite air fryers were the Instant Vortex Plus 6-Quart Air Fryer, Ninja Air Fryer, Philips Premium Digital Air Fryer, and Cosori Pro Air Fryer. (Note: we tested the generation one version of the Cosori, but the second generation appears to be the same—with an identical capacity and features—and we will be evaluating it firsthand soon). You can read more about the pros and cons of these specific models—and what air fryers we don’t recommend—in our review.
FAQsIs air frying the same as deep frying? No, a deep fryer requires a large amount of oil (as in, enough to fully submerge the food). Air frying typically calls for, maximum, a few tablespoons. With a deep fryer, you’re using hot oil to cook the food. With an air fryer, you’re using what is essentially a very small, efficient convection oven.
What air fryer should I buy? We tested air fryers and named models from Instant, Ninja, Philips, and Cosori as our top picks. They come in a range of price points and sizes, and each has its pros and cons. You can read more about our favorite air fryers (and how we tested) here.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinInstant Pot is, perhaps, one of the most recognizable countertop kitchen appliances. It’s a “multi-cooker,” which combines an electric pressure cooker with additional functionalities like slow cooking, yogurt making, and sautéing.
But let’s face it, most folks use their Instant Pot for one purpose: pressure cooking. So, when we tested Instant Pots, we focused heavily on their searing and pressure cooking abilities (we also tested other settings, like sous vide and cake). But, having recently reviewed air fryers and highly recommended a model from Instant, we were curious about how an Instant Pot-air fryer hybrid functioned. So, we decided to test the Instant Pot Duo Crisp with Ultimate Lid, focusing on its air fryer functionality (as we already recommend the Instant Pot Duo’s pressure-cooking functions and don’t recommend using one as a slow-cooker or for sous vide).
The TestsSerious Eats / Irvin Lin Frozen French Fries Test: We air fried one pound of frozen French fries for 25 minutes at 400°F, stirring the fries halfway through the cook time, to see how the air fryer worked with uniform frozen food. * Brussels Sprouts Test: We air fried one pound of quartered Brussels sprouts for 10 minutes at 400°F, stirring every two to three minutes, to see how the air fryer worked with fresh vegetables. * Chicken Wings Test: We air fried two pounds of chicken wings for 20 minutes at 360°F, turning the chicken halfway. Then we increased the temperature to 400°F for six minutes to crisp the chicken wings. We wanted to see how the air fryer would cook protein. * Usability and Cleanup Tests:* Throughout testing, we evaluated how easy the machine was to use, including how intuitive its controls were. After each test, we cleaned the basket and bowl by hand.
What We LearnedHow It WorksSerious Eats / Irvin LinInstant Pot sells another, older multicooker with an air fryer lid. With this model, the lid can be swapped in or out with a standard Instant Pot lid, turning the multi-cooker into an air fryer with a simple lid switch. The Instant Pot Duo Crisp Ultimate Lid has just one lid for all functions.
To use the air fryer function, you open the lid, which is attached to the body of the Instant Pot by a hinge, and remove the inner lid cover by pressing a red button (the cover actually falls off, so you have to be sure to catch it). This reveals the heating unit and fan underneath.
From there, it functions much like other Instant air fryers: you can set the timer and temperature (the maximum heat is 400°F). Once you press start, the air fryer will begin preheating the unit. And once it’s gone through that process, it will prompt you to add food.
Cooking Went (Somewhat) Fine, for the Most PartSerious Eats / Irvin LinMuch of the fries, Brussels sprouts, and wings cooked per our air-fryer expectations (read: we enjoyed eating them!). However, stirring the thin fries and quartered Brussels sprouts resulted in them falling off of the perforated air fryer cooking rack and into the bottom of the cooking pot. These wayward pieces did not cook evenly.
In fact, a quarter of the fries and a third of the Brussels sprouts ended up at the bottom of the pot, a result of a too-small rack with a too-loose fit (the rack was roughly 3/4-inch smaller in diameter than the inner pot).
Stirred, Not ShakenUnlike a typical, basket-style air fryer that has a handle that allows you to pull the basket out and shake the food, the Ultimate Lid doesn’t have a convenient way for you to do this. In theory, you could pick up the inner pot using oven mitts, then shake the food that way, but this was both impractical and awkward.
Mind the Heating ElementSerious Eats / Irvin LinOnce you open the Ultimate Lid when air frying, the heating element is directly pointed at you, and your hand gets fairly close to it when you go to stir the food. We disliked hinge-style air fryers when we tested them for this very reason. They just don’t feel as safe as models with concealed heating elements.
It Was Pretty Big!Finally, the idea of owning one appliance that can replace your air fryer and electric pressure cooker (it has a sous vide function too, though we weren’t fans of this sort of thing when we reviewed other Instant Pots) theoretically sounds great. However, the Ultimate Lid is still a large, heavy appliance.
With a footprint of 15 3/4 inches by 15 1/2 inches and a height of 13 inches (closed) it takes up a lot of space. Once the lid is opened, the height increases to 23 inches and you need to accommodate an additional five inches behind it, so the lid can open up properly. And weighing a hefty 24 pounds, moving the Ultimate Lid is no lightweight task.
The VerdictIf you don’t own an Instant Pot and are looking to buy one, and you occasionally want to air fry, the Ultimate Lid may be a fine choice for you. However, there are safety concerns with a lid with an exposed heating element, and we didn’t find it as convenient to use as a standalone air fryer or Instant Pot.
Key Specs Settings: Air fry, pressure cook, sauté, slow cook, steam, warm, roast, bake, broil, dehydrate, yogurt, sous vide, bread proof * Stated capacity: 6.5 quarts * Care instructions: Inner cooking pot, air fryer rack, and inner pressure cooking cover are dishwasher-safe * Price at time of publish:* $230
FAQsIs the Instant Pot Duo Crisp Ultimate Lid worth It?In our tests, the air fryer function of the Instant Pot Duo Crisp worked fine, but the exposed heating element on the lid felt dangerous. If you're just looking to use an air fryer occasionally, it might be worth it. But if you use your air fryer frequently, we suggest a dedicated air fryer.
What can I make in an Instant Pot?We have a number of Instant Pot and multi-cooker recipes here on Serious Eats, feel free to check them out.
Can I slow cook in an Instant Pot?All Instant Pot multi-cookers have a slow cooker function, but we don’t recommend using it. You can read why here. Multi-cookers like the Instant Pot are best used as a pressure cooker.
Vicky WasikChips, crackers, Oreos, pretzels...for some, this is what the snacks in the pantry look like. While they may hit the spot every now and then, sometimes we find ourselves craving something a bit more, with a little bit of oomph. When you expand your snacking options outside the box (both literally and figuratively),a whole new world awaits. And when you enter spicy snack territory, you'll never run out of satisfying options. From mouth-numbing Sichuan peppercorn-dusted wings to Korean-style fire chicken and anchovy banchan, these are our favorite spicy snack recipes that bring the heat.
Jamaican Pepper ShrimpJillian AtkinsonStewed in a flavorful aromatic broth loaded with onion, garlic, allspice, thyme, and plenty of spicy Scotch bonnet peppers, this Jamaican roadside snack can now be made right in your kitchen.
Chaat-Spiced Chex MixVicky WasikUpdate your classic Chex mix recipe with the addition of chaat masala, the spice mixture used throughout South Asia for the popular street foods known as chaat. The spice blend combines funky, salty, spicy, and tart flavors, transforming anything it's sprinkled on.
Korean-Style Fire Chicken (Buldak) With CheeseVicky WasikFire chicken is the ultimate snack for game day or any day—and it'll make you forget all about Buffalo wings.
Stir-Fried Anchovy Banchan (Myeolchi Bokkeum)Vicky WasikMeyolchi Bokkeum is a classic banchan that packs a ton of flavor into a plateful of little dried fish.
Crispy Kimchi Cheese RiceVicky WasikWe love using leftover rice to make fried rice, but we also love making this crispy, chewy, gooey snack that comes together in a cast iron skillet.
Sicilian Pizza With Pepperoni and Spicy Tomato SauceSerious Eats / Julia EstradaThis Sicilian pizza is as close as you're going to get to the famous one at Prince Street Pizza in New York City.
The Best Buffalo WingsSerious Eats / Julia EstradaThese wings are crispy, tangy, and perfectly succulent.
Crispy Deep-Fried Jalapeño PoppersVicky WasikThese fried jalapeño poppers feature shatteringly crisp exteriors and a melted cream cheese filling.
Grilled Turkish-Style Chicken WingsVicky WasikAn improved setup for skewers brings these grilled wings closer to the heat, while a marinade based on Turkish hot pepper paste infuses them with roasted-chile flavor.
Spicy Chicken QuesadillasPhotograph and video: J. Kenji López-AltShredded chicken, kicked up with jalapeño and pepper Jack cheese, makes a hearty filling for these flaky quesadillas.
Suanla Chaoshou (Sichuan-Style Wontons in Hot and Sour Vinegar and Chili Oil Sauce)J. Kenji Lopez-AltCoated in an intensely aromatic sauce made with vinegar, garlic, and roasted chile oil, these wontons are easy to make and incredibly satisfying.
Hot and Numbing Xi'an-Style Oven-Fried Chicken WingsJ. Kenji López-AltThese wings, packed with Sichuan pepper and fresh spices, are both mouth-numbing and wonderfully flavorful all at once.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziHave you ever noticed that the second glass of wine tastes better than the first, even if they’re from the same bottle? This could be because the wine has had time to open up. Wine—especially big, bold red wine—needs airflow to unlock its best flavors. In a corked bottle, wine is essentially grounded—it’s locked in its room and it can’t play with its friends (oxygen molecules). Once the cork is removed, the party starts.
Oxygen will begin to flow into a wine bottle the second it’s open. Over time, this airflow will react with the wine, lifting its aromatic compounds into the air where they can be inhaled and appreciated. You can speed up this process by exposing more of the wine to air via a decanter.
Wine bottles are narrow. Even in an open bottle, only a small amount of wine on the surface is exposed to oxygen. Wine decanters create a larger surface area and more airflow so that wine will open quickly. While a wine might take several hours to aerate in a bottle, most red wines need under an hour to open up in a decanter.
With the goal of providing airflow in mind, almost anything can be used as a decanter. Pouring wine into a pitcher, vase, or even the body of a blender would allow it plenty of room to breath. A specially made wine decanter brings a little more elegance to the table. Choose a decanter that you love and can store easily, and serve wine from it directly during dinner. To determine which vessels pair design with functionality, we tested 13 models.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Best All-Purpose Wine Decanter: Made In DecanterThis was a simple, elegant decanter that checked all of the boxes. It allowed wine ample room to breathe, and was easy to pour from.
Also Great: Riedel Cabernet DecanterBeautiful and delicate (its one con, as this makes cleanup more precarious), this wine decanter was easy to pour into and from. At $54, it's reasonably priced, too.
The TestsSerious Eats / Madeline Muzzi Decanting Test: We poured one bottle of red into each decanter to see if each vessel could hold 750 milliliters of wine (a standard size bottle). We also assessed how easy it was to decant the wine into the vessel—noting if the wine splashed and if the opening was large enough to allow comfortable pouring. * Aeration Test: For each decanter, we observed the aeration method and tested any accessories meant to enhance aeration. * Taste Test: For each decanter, we decanted one bottle of wine for an hour, tasting every 15 minutes to note its development. The same type of red wine was used for each decanter. * Ease of Pouring Test: We poured four glasses of wine from each decanter. We noted how easy it was to handle the decanter, and looked for any design elements that caused drips or spills. * Sediment Test: We filled each decanter with 750 milliters of water, red food coloring, and 2 tablespoons of coffee grounds. We poured four glasses of this liquid, observing how easy it was to identify sediment and stop pouring before the grounds reached the glass. * Cleanup Test:* We cleaned each decanter according to manufacturer instructions, using included accessories where relevant.
What We LearnedSurface Area Was KeyAll it takes to aerate a wine is exposure to oxygen. Decanters with a wide base create a shallow pool of wine with a large surface area. This exposes more of the wine to oxygen at once, and will decrease the time wine needs to breath. Models like the Made In Decanter opened wine more quickly than the tall and narrow Riedel Wine Friendly Decanter. Some models, like the Rabbit Pura Decanting Systemand the Onearf Wine Decanter included bonus features that agitate the wine as it pours. The goal of these features is to force more air through the wine and speed up aeration. During testing, these features did not significantly improve the decanting process. Although they may have started out slightly ahead, the wine still needed to breathe in the decanter to open up fully.
What About Electric Wine Decanters?Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziWe tested one decanter that came with an electronic base: the vSpin Wine Aerator. When combined with a magnet, it spun the wine in the decanter and created a vortex. This swirling vortex introduced even more air into the wine and rapidly accelerated aeration. In fact, we model was able to dispel the flavor of alcohol and bring forward fruit flavors in a bottle of red wine in 20 minutes. However, it's also wicked expensive, at about $250, and because of this we thought it still felt gimmicky. Our advice: for the price, just get a standard decanter.
A Sharper Angle Wasn't a Better AngleSerious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe angle of the spout to the base determines how much you’ll have to tilt the decanter when you pour a glass of wine. Decanters like the Rabbit Pura Decanting System and the Zalto Mystique Decanter feature a sharp angle—almost 90 degrees—between the neck and the base. This seems fine for the first couple of pours, but once you reach the end of the bottle, these decanters need to be turned almost completely upside down to pour a glass. This makes it difficult to control the flow and separate any remaining sediment from the wine. A surprising number of decanters failed this test. Models with sloped sides, like the Vintorio GoodGlassware Wine Decanter, only need to be titled slightly past 90 degrees to pour the very last drop.
Too Narrow Necks Were Too DifficultWe found the size of the decanter's opening determined how easy it was to decant into. Decanters with very narrow necks, with openings of about one-and-a-half inches, required a super steady hand to pour the wine, or some wine sloshed down the sides. Our favorite models had openings that were two-and-a-half to three inches wide.
The length of the neck also made a difference when it was time to pour. When filled, decanters are on the heavy side. The weight of the wine alone is around 1.65 pounds. Most decanters we tested fell in the 1- to 2-pound range. All together, this makes for a hefty serving vessel. To pour wine from a decanter, you grasp the neck and tilt it. Models with very short necks (two to three inches long, compared to our favorite models' four to six inches), were difficult to hold and pour.
Tapered vs. Flat LipsModels with sharp, tapered lips were most effective at creating a steady stream of wine. The taper creates a natural place for wine to flow, and the sharp edge cuts the stream off quickly when the decanter is turned upright. Decanters with a wide flat edge, like the BTäT Decanter with Stand were more likely to cause drips.
Filters and SedimentSerious Eats / Madeline MuzziIt’s perfectly normal for a wine to include sediment, especially an older bottle. Sediment is organic material, usually made up of crystalized tartaric acid, yeast cells, and fragments of grape skin. While it might not be pleasant, it’s not harmful if consumed. Professional sommeliers typically remove sediment by sight. When pouring wine into a decanter, they stop just before the sediment flows into the neck of the wine bottle, leaving any unwanted gunk (and a small amount of wine) behind. This process takes some skill. In theory, a decanter with a filter can help those with a less practiced hand achieve the same results. However, the one wine decanter with a filter we were going to recommend became unavailable shortly before publishing and we found other models with filters worked too slowly. Wine ended up backing up in the filter, making pouring difficult.
Plus, when decanting an older wine, a filter alone might not do the trick. According to wine educator Tess Rose Lampert, not even a filter can remove 100% of the fine sediment in aged wine. Instead, for best results, store the bottle upright for several hours before decanting, and stop pouring about 1/2-inch from the bottom.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Wine DecanterSerious Eats / Madeline MuzziLook for a decanter with a wide base. This will create a large surface area that will quickly aerate your wine. For ease of pouring, consider the spout. Look for a decanter with sloped sides and a thin, angled lip. This will make it easy to pour a steady stream of wine down to the last drop.
The Best All-Purpose Wine Decanter: Made In DecanterWhat we liked: This decanter strikes a balance between elegance and strength. The thin, glass edge is easy to control when pouring wine, but the material feels sturdy enough for stress-free hand-washing. The sloped shoulders make it possible to serve an entire bottle of wine without dumping the last glass on the table, and the thin, angled spout gives the pourer enough control to stop the flow if any sediment remains. Compared to other models, the compact size of the Made-In decanter makes for easy storage.
What we didn’t: This is a no-fuss, no-frills model. It’s well-suited for everyday use, but at $89, it’s one of the more expensive models we tested.
Price at time of publish: $89.
Key Specs Weight: 1-pound * Material: Crystal glass * Stated capacity:* 1500 milliliters or 50.7 ounces
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziAlso Great: Riedel Cabernet DecanterWhat we liked: This was a solid, basic decanter. It poured easily and aerated well. It was also very lightweight, which made for easy pouring, even when the decanter was full. It had a wide, stable base and spacious opening that allowed for easy, stress- and splash-free decanting.
What we didn’t: The glass was very thin, and required careful cleaning.
Price at time of publish: $54.
Key Specs Weight: .75 pounds * Material: Glass * Stated capacity:* 38 ounces
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe Competition* Rabbit Super-Aerating Decanter System: We actually really liked this decanter and wanted to name it a winner (it has a filter), but it appears to be discontinued. * Le Chateau Wine Decanter: This simple decanter aerated wine well. It lost points because the steep angle of the neck made it difficult to pour the final few glasses. * Rabbit Pura Decanting System: This short, sturdy decanter dripped when we poured. The included filter separated sediment, but it drained slowly, making decanting difficult. * BTäT Decanter with Stand: The included accessories made cleaning this decanter extremely easy, but the wide, flat edge caused drips when pouring. * HiCoup Red Wine Decanter: This large decanter makes a design statement, but the size and thin glass composition made cleaning a challenge. * Onearf Wine Decanter and Carafe: This model uses an airlock to decant and aerate wine. Attach a bottle to the airlock, and invert it to drain the wine into the decanter. The airlock was a little unstable, required two hands to operate, and may pop or fizz, spraying wine all over your shirt. * Vintorio GoodGlassware Wine Decanter: This solid, simple decanter aerated and separated sediment well. However, the thick glass edge caused a few drips while pouring. * vSpin Wine Aerator: If you’re in a huge hurry, this decanter works well. Drop a magnet into the base of the decanter, set it on the included plate, and press the power button. The base rotates and creates a vortex that rapidly aerates the wine. Although effective, we found this product slightly gimmicky. It's also very expensive. * Riedel Wine Friendly Decanter: This tall, narrow decanter was slightly unstable and wobbled on the table. * Zalto Mystique Decanter: The wide base of this decanter aerated wine efficiently, but it required a very steep angle to pour. This made serving the last few glasses of wine difficult. * Glassvin The Decanter: This decanter is beautifully designed, but was quite heavy when full. The narrow neck made decanting a bottle into the vessel trickier.
FAQsWhy should you decant wine? Decanting is a way to unlock the best flavors in a glass of a wine. Oxygen helps wine develop—this is the same principle that’s at work when a wine ages. Decanting will bring forward the fruit characteristics in a wine, mellow out the alcohol flavor, and integrate the tannis.
Should you decant white wine? In general, white wines do not need to be decanted. White wines are full of fresh fruit flavors and aromas, and decanting can diminish those flavors. There’s an exception to this rule—if your white wine tastes a little off, it can be beneficial to decant it. Decanting can help dissipate unwanted flavors and aromas like ethanol or sulfur.
How do you decant wine without a decanter?You can still aerate wine without a decanter. Try pouring the wine into a pitcher, vase, or even a clean blender to give it some time to breathe. Or you could keep things simple: just remove the cork about an hour before you intend to serve—the wine will slowly open up in the bottle and continue to develop once poured.
What’s the best way to clean a wine decanter? After use, simply fill the decanter with warm water and swish it around. Avoid using dish soap, as it can leave behind a thin residue and introduce unwanted flavors into your next bottle. If you use your decanter frequently it will require deep cleaning once in a while. Metal beads, a cleaning wand, or paper towels wrapped around a flexible silicone spatula can help remove residue from the bottom of a decanter. Whatever you do, resist the temptation to stick your hand down the neck of the decanter—the odds of getting your hand stuck and breaking the glass are quite high.
Melissa HomIf you ask us, even the most basic noodle dishes make a great meal or snack any time of day. That's because there's little the humble starch needs to up the flavor factor, and there are endless ways to prepare them. Best of all, many noodle dishes can come together quite quickly, making them a great option for when you're short on time but need something satisfying. There are many noodle varieties on the market, and they're great to stock up on for use in a pinch with any number of recipes. From a Thai glass noodle salad to stir-fried lo mein or a cold Chinese noodle salad, these are our favorite easy noodle recipes for lunch, dinner, or even a midnight snack.
Easy Homemade Ramen NoodlesSho SpaethYou can't have a noodle dish without the noodles! Make ramen noodles at home with pantry staples, and no more.
Yam Woon Sen (Thai Glass Noodle Salad With Shrimp)Vicky WasikA spicy-sour Thai noodle salad that comes together in minutes.
Myeolchi Kal Guksu (Korean Anchovy Knife-Cut Noodle Soup)Vicky WasikKorean knife-cut noodle soup features tender and slippery fresh wheat noodles and a balanced selection of vegetables.
Bukkake Udon (Japanese Cold Noodles With Broth)Vicky WasikChilled noodles in a savory broth keep you cool and satisfied.
Stir-Fried Lo Mein Noodles With Pork and VegetablesEmily and Matt CliftonThis colorful dish—packed with noodles, meat, and plenty of vegetables—comes together in a little more than half an hour, making it perfect for a weeknight.
Stir-Fried Lo Mein With Beef and BroccoliSerious Eats / Mariel De La CruzThis Chinese-American restaurant staple—loaded with beef and broccoli—can easily be made at home.
Pressure Cooker Pho Ga (Vietnamese Chicken Noodle Soup)J. Kenji Lopez-AltThis soup brings together rich, aromatic broth and fall-off-the-bone tender chicken in just 30 minutes, thanks to the pressure cooker.
Chinese Cold Noodle Salad with Sesame DressingSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezClingy, velvety sauce, starchy noodles, and fresh vegetables come together in this cold noodle salad.
Vegetarian Mazemen With Beans and EggSho SpaethSoup-less ramen, or mazemen, is a delicious way to use up your dried beans, your bean-cooking liquid, and any leftovers you've got around.
XO Mazemen (Broth-less Ramen With XO Sauce)Vicky WasikThis take on mazemen incorporates powerfully savory XO sauce to make a flavorful ramen that takes all of five minutes to prepare.
Bacon and Egg MazemenSho SpaethA soup-less ramen riff on pasta carbonara, all made with staples from the Japanese pantry.
Classic Cold SobaSerious Eats / Diana ChistrugaCold, nutty soba noodles pair perfectly with a soy sauce and mirin dipping sauce for a simple yet satisfying meal.
Singapore Rice NoodlesShao Z.Complete with shrimp and roast pork, this Singapore noodle stir-fry comes together in a matter of minutes.
Stir-Fried Lo Mein With Charred Cabbage, Shiitake, and ChivesMelissa HomQuick and easy stir-fried noodles with shiitake mushrooms, Chinese chives, and charred cabbage.
Soba Salad With Seaweed, Cucumbers, and AsparagusDaniel GritzerThis simple and refreshing pasta salad is made with soba (buckwheat) noodles, raw cucumber, lightly cooked asparagus, and wakame seaweed.
Sichuan Shirataki Sesame Noodle SaladJ. Kenji López-AltHere, slick shirataki noodles pick up plenty of flavor from a sauce of Sichuan peppercorn and chili-infused oil, black vinegar, garlic, soy sauce, and peanuts.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianAs I’ve said elsewhere, making baguettes that rival the best that bakeries have to offer is challenging, but it’s a fun challenge to attempt, and even less-than-perfect results will be better than anything you can get at a supermarket. Some of the challenges are overcome by memorizing and perfecting the many steps involved, which takes time and practice. Others involve simply investing in all the many tools baguettes require. While you can make an excellent boule-shaped loaf of bread using little more than a colander, a clean kitchen towel, a sharp knife, and a cast iron Dutch oven, all of which most cooks have on hand already, baguettes require speciality tools to pull off successfully. Fortunately, none are terribly expensive, and most are useful for making other sorts of breads too (and a few are things you mightalready have on hand). Here’s an inventory of everything you need to make baguettes at home.
A digital scale (or two!)Baguettes, like other bread and baking recipes, require precise measuring of ingredients, which means you’ll want an accurate digital scale to make these. Most people can get by with a standard tabletop scale that reads in grams and weighs quantities up to 11 pounds. But serious bread bakers might also want to invest in an inexpensive pocket jeweler's scale, since those are far more accurate when measuring sub-5-gram amounts of things, like yeast, salt, and diastatic malt powder.
A 13- by 9-inch rectangular cake panIt's important that the dough you use to make baguettes starts out in a more-or-less rectangular shape. When professional bakers make them, they begin by dividing a massive amount of dough into many rectangular baguette-sized portions, a relatively easy thing to do when working with a huge mass of dough. To achieve a similar effect at home, I like to cold-proof my dough in a rectangular 13- by 9-inch cake pan. The dough spreads out into a rectangle as it sits in the fridge, making it easy to divide into four fairly uniform pieces when it is turned out of the pan and onto a floured countertop later on. (You can also use any similarly-sized container, if you have one, like a rectangular snap-top plastic storage container.)
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianA bench scraperTo divide the dough into portions and to move the dough pieces around gently enough to avoid marring their shape, you want to use a metal bench scraper. (Bench scrapers are also useful for, well, scraping benches, something you’ll have to do once all the baguettes are in the oven.)
A couche“Artisan“-style breads are usually proofed upside-down, in containers that help them hold their final shape (without the container, doughs will spread out as they proof and go blobby). Baguettes are usually proofed in the folds of a floured linen cloth known in French as a couche. Coarse, heavy linen is the fabric of choice for couches because it has enough heft to stay upright when pleated, and the right sort of texture to wick moisture away from the dough without also attaching itself to it.
Couches come in a variety of lengths and widths, but it is important to find one sized appropriately. The ideal dimensions of a home-scale couche are 17 inches wide and at least 20 inches long. I prefer the 18-inch wide couches from the San Francisco Baking Institute, because they are sized to fit a half-sheet. You could make your own couche if you can find a bolt of the right grade of linen, but pre-cut ones with hemmed edges that won’t fray aren’t all that more expensive than DIY versions.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianA clean, plastic garbage bagTo keep doughs and shaped loaves from drying out as they rest or proof, bakeries keep them on rolling racks, covered with plastic. At home, you can use a clean plastic garbage bag instead. I keep a couple of them rolled up with my baking tools and reuse them over and over again. (The bag never touches the loaves directly, so there's no need for concern about food safety or to clean them afterwards.)
Transfer peelProofed baguettes ready to bake are too floppy and fragile to move to a baking peel. Instead, you need to use a thin, stiff, beveled-edge wooden board known as a transfer peel (or a "flipper board," as they are sometimes called). Again, a transfer peel is definitely something a handy person could fashion themselves, but commercial ones are inexpensive. They are a specialty item you’ll most likely need to order online.
Curved-blade lameBakers use an ultra-thin, ultra-sharp razor blade on a handle known as a lame (pronounced lahm) to score breads. For baguettes, you ideally want to use a curved-blade lame rather than a straight one, because the former is easier to orient at an extreme angle to the dough, which in turn helps to cut a "flap" of dough that will form a dramatic ear once the loaf is baked. (That said, a straight-bladed lame can work here too.) Most lames use replaceable, disposable double-edged shaving razor blades, which you can find at any drugstore. Be sure to start with a brand-new razor blade for maximum sharpness because razor blades dull far more quickly than you'd think; replace the blade regularly too. Lames are available at baking specialty stores or online.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubBaking stoneIn order to achieve an open, tender crumb and a crisp crust, baguettes need to bake quickly. For this reason, they are usually baked at a high temperature (500˚F) on a preheated baking stone, which pumps heat into the core of the loaf to encourage rapid oven spring (loaf expansion). If you don't have either of these yet, you’ll need to get one before you begin.
I don’t really recommend using a baking steel for baguettes. Steels are great baking tools because they are more conductive than stone and push heat more rapidly into the loaf. But with fast-cooking baguettes, this can be a liability, since they can burn before they are fully baked. If it is all you have, then you might want to set a baking sheet below the baguettes to insulate them, especially after you’ve removed the foil pan at the tail end of the bake.
Disposable turkey roasting pan and aluminum foilProfessional baguette bakers use steam-injected bread ovens to keep the exterior of the loaves moist at the start of the bake, for maximum oven spring and to produce the baguette's signature crisp, crumb-scattering crust. Steaming round or long-but-compact loaves in a home oven is easy to do by baking them inside of a Dutch oven or a dedicated bread pot—the container corrals moisture that evaporates from the dough, enveloping the loaf with steam—but there are no similar options that can comfortably hold a 14ish-inch long baguette. My workaround is to instead bake the baguettes underneath an upside-down disposable 17- by 13-inch turkey roasting pan wrapped tightly with aluminum foil. (After the baguettes have expanded fully and the crust has begun to set, the pan is removed to let the loaves finish browning and crisp up.)
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianPizza peelYou'll also need a wide, flat pizza peel to load and unload the baguettes to and from the oven. While just about any sort will do, as long as it is at least 12 inches wide and long, I prefer a thin-bladed aluminum one myself, since it is lightweight and thin enough to slip under breads easily. In a pinch, a rimless cookie sheet can work quite well, though it obviously lacks the handle you get with a dedicated peel.
Diastatic malt powderWhile baguettes can be made with flours, salt, and instant yeast that you can find in most supermarkets, and water from the tap, there is one optional specialty ingredient you might want to get your hands on: diastatic malt powder. Not to be confused with malt sugar, non-diastatic malt powder, malt syrup, or malted milk powder (all of which are sugars), diastatic malt powder,is an enzyme made from malted barley or wheat that breaks down starches into simple sugars. In flour, diastatic malt serves to provide a steady supply of sugar, to drive fermentation during proofing and caramelization in the heat of the oven.
Diastatic malt is usually added to commercial flours in the mill—it's often listed as “malted barley” or “barley flour" in the ingredients—in order to ensure a uniform, consistent amount from bag to bag. Adding a little extra diastatic malt to long-fermented doughs like this baguette ensures that there will always be enough sugar around to achieve dramatic and rapid browning during baking.
A little bit of diastatic malt goes a longway, so buy it in small quantities if you can. And it loses enzymatic activity over time, especially when exposed to moisture or heat, so store it in a sealable container like a mason jar in a cool spot (or even in the freezer).
FAQsHow do you make baguettes at home?We have a step-by-step recipe for homemade baguettes that can be found here.
Do you need a baking stone or steel for baguettes? For baking baguettes, we recommend getting a baking stone, not a steel. A baking steel will push too much heat into a baguette, which will cause it to burn before it bakes through.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubSome jobs are just too small for a standard size utensil: an egg or two for breakfast, a vinaigrette for a lunchtime salad—it’s annoying to truck out the large mixing bowl and a 12-inch whisk for such a tiny task. Fortunately, there are a variety of mini whisks available. But that begs the question: just what qualifies as a “mini" whisk?
There doesn’t seem to be a standard size when it comes to naming; whisks that were labeled “mini” by some brands were 75% longer than others. When we did side-by-side comparisons of everything in our lineup, however, it became clear that once a whisk cleared 6.5 inches, it could no longer qualify. And even though three of the whisks we had didn’t make the “mini” cut, we tested every model anyway to better illustrate the differences.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Best Mini Whisk: Kuhn Rikon 6-Inch Balloon Wire WhiskWith its slightly elongated balloon-style loops, the Kuhn Rikon 6-inch whisk was easy to maneuver into corners without sacrificing maximum blending power. It beat and blended through all of our tests the fastest, and the extra-long handle loop provided key leverage for people with larger hands while still keeping it compact for easy storage.
The Best Mini Whisk For Smaller Bowls: Tovolo 6-Inch Mini WhiskThe Tovolo’s wide set loops allowed it to effortlessly whip through liquids in smaller bowls, making it perfect for beating a few eggs for breakfast. It’s also the shortest whisk of any of our winners, making it well-suited for people short on drawer space or with smaller hands.
The Best Small Whisk For Bigger Hands: Williams Sonoma Signature Stainless French WhiskAt 9 inches, the Williams Sonoma French whisk is definitely not mini (our favorite balloon whisks are only slightly longer at 11 inches). However, its handle was the most comfortable for people with bigger hands, and its narrow french whisk-style loops were still able to tackle all the small jobs the mini whisks did, sometimes even faster.
The TestsSerious Eats / Jesse Raub Egg Beating Test: We cracked three eggs into a small bowl and timed how long it took to fully beat them together. We noted how each whisk shape was suited to the task, and how easy cleanup was. * Vinaigrette Test: We made a simple vinaigrette for one with one tablespoon of red wine vinegar and three tablespoons of olive oil. We timed how long it took to emulsify with each mini whisk, how well the dressing was emulsified, and how well the shape of each whisk worked in a straight-sided liquid measuring cup. * Tahini Sauce Test: We scaled down this tahini sauce recipe to see how each mini whisk could handle blending thicker ingredients for one to two servings, rating each whisk on how quickly it blended the sauce and how well mixed the sauce was. * Cleanup and Usability Tests:* We cleaned each mini whisk by hand and ran them through the dishwasher after every test. We also repeated the egg beating test to note how comfortable each handle was, how versatile each whisk was, and how the shape, size, and number of loops might be related to performance.
What We LearnedWhat Size Was Ideal for a Mini Whisk? Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe biggest factor in performance was overall length versus loop length. If the whisk was too small (under 6 inches), it was harder to maneuver in the mixing vessel. The Mrs. Anderson’s Mini Baking Whisk performed fine, but its skinny, wrapped wire handle felt like gripping a pencil, and its short length meant your hand would have to reach into the bowl for the loops to scrape the corners.
Too big, and the whisk was cumbersome for smaller tasks, and, at that point, you may as well just buy a balloon whisk. The silicone Williams Sonoma Prep Tools Mini Whisk felt clunky when trying to emulsify a vinaigrette for a single-serving, and was so long it threatened to tip out of the bowl we used for beating eggs.
The Kuhn Rikon mini whisk on the left has slightly longer loops than the Rosle Mini Egg Whisk on the right.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubEven subtle differences in length made a huge impact. The Rosle Mini Egg Whisk was nearly identical to our winner, the Kuhn Rikon 6-Inch Balloon Wire Whisk, except for one key difference: the Kuhn Rikon whisk had loops that were .25 inches longer. That extra quarter inch beat eggs 30% faster, emulsified the vinaigrette easier, and mixed our tahini sauce smoother. Both whisks performed admirably overall, but it was clear that loop length was a huge advantage.
Whisk Shape Had To Match The VesselSerious Eats / Jesse RaubBetween a wide balloon whisk, narrow French whisk, and squared-off whisks, it was tricky to find one that worked for every mixing vessel. The sharp edges of the American Metalware Mini Bar Whip are designed for mixing drinks in a straight-sided glass, so it bonked around in bowls and couldn’t scrape the sides. Material Kitchen’s Mini Air Whisk had similar issues, though its flexible loops helped it contour to the bowl's edges.
Rounder balloon whisks were great at matching rounded vessels. It was hard to top the Tovolo 6-Inch Mini Whisk when beating eggs in a small bowl. Its wide-set loops and big balloon shape passed easily through the whites, blending nicely with each pass, but it struggled to reach the corners when whisking a vinaigrette in a glass liquid measuring cup.
Finally, narrower whisk loops were best for taller and straighter vessels. Even though it classed out of the “mini” designation, the Williams Sonoma Signature Stainless French Whisk performed beautifully in a liquid measuring cup, but its size required a larger bowl for beating eggs.
The sweet spot in terms of shape was our winner from Kuhn Rikon. WIth a slightly tapered base that created elongated loops, its overall design was a subtle hybrid between a French whisk and a balloon whisk which tackled tasks easily and could be used in both bowls and straight-sided vessels.
Thicker Loops Were MessierJesse Raub / Serious EatsHeavier gauge loops, like on the Williams Sonoma Prep Tools Mini Whisk, created a lot of splatter. This was also an issue with Mrs. Anderson’s whisk, though it was luckily still small enough overall to keep splashing contained. While it didn’t affect the performance of either whisk, it created more cleanup than necessary, which was an instant disqualifier.
Handle Length Was Key For LeverageSerious Eats / Jesse RaubWhile we liked the Williams Sonoma whisk's handle, which was longer and had a gentle palm swell, the whisk itself wasn't exactly mini. The key to a comfortable mini whisk grip, we found, was having an extended handle loop.
The elongated loop on the Kuhn Rikon whisk’s handle made it long enough to rest comfortably in larger hands. The loop itself added an extra .75 inches to the handle length, matching the 3.75-inch length of the larger French whisk from Williams Sonoma and the Material whisk. The loop also made the Kuhn Rikon’s handle an inch longer than the models from Tovolo, American Metalware, and Mrs. Anderson’s.
Stainless Steel Performed Better Than SiliconeSerious Eats / Jesse RaubWhile it may be ideal for use with nonstick surfaces and ceramic bowls, silicone-coated whisks were just too slippery. We found that both the Material Air Whisk and the Williams Sonoma Mini Prep whisk passed through the liquids too smoothly, and didn’t create as much turbulence as stainless loops, which meant it took longer for the eggs to beat together and for the vinaigrette to fully emulsify. Performance issues weren’t drastic, but it was enough of a difference for us to take note of.
The Criteria: What to Look for In a Mini WhiskSerious Eats / Jesse RaubThe best mini whisks have a long, wide handle and thin-gauge loops that are long enough to mix and blend efficiently. The whisk should be compact for easy storage, and be made from sturdy and durable stainless steel.
The Best Mini Whisk: Kuhn Rikon 6-Inch Balloon Wire WhiskWhat we liked: The almost hybrid-style shape (a combination of a French and balloon whisk) of this whisk excelled at every task, and its extra-long handle loop gave it just enough length for a comfortable grip It had the fastest egg-beating time of any mini whisk, and deftly brought together the vinaigrette and tahini sauce with very little effort. It was also durable—even the most vigorous whisking didn’t bend the loops, and it made it through the dishwasher without a scratch.
What we didn’t like: Even though the loop helps extend the handle, an extra quarter of an inch of actual handle would probably increase grip comfort for those with large hands.
Price at time of publish: $15.
Key Specs Material: Stainless steel * Weight: 2 ounces * Total length: 6.25 inches * Handle length: 3 inches * Loop length: 3.25 inches * Number of loops: 6 * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe Best Mini Whisk For Smaller Bowls: Tovolo 6-Inch Mini WhiskWhat we liked: When it came to mixing in smaller bowls, the wide set loops on this whisk cut through the eggs and mixed our sauces without creating too much turbulence. And, like our top pick, it’s sturdy and well-constructed with a smooth, rounded handle.
What we didn’t like: The wider balloon shape couldn't get into the corners of a taller liquid measuring cup, and the shorter handle was harder on those with large hands.
Price at time of publish: $12.
Key Specs Material: Stainless steel * Total length: 6 inches * Handle length: 2.75 inches * Loop length: 3.25 inches * Number of loops: 6 * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe Best Small Whisk For Bigger Hands: Williams Sonoma Signature Stainless French WhiskWhat we liked: Even though it’s too long to be considered a mini whisk, the narrow loops on this French whisk were still tight enough to tackle the same small jobs with ease. It excelled at working into corners, and it was the fastest whisk we tested. Its handle, which featured an oblong palm swell, was comfortable to grip at different angles. If you can palm a basketball, you might want to skip mini whisks and snag this one instead.
What we didn’t like: Because of its size, this whisk needed bigger bowls and taller vessels to accommodate its whisking action. It also takes up a lot more drawer space,
Price at time of publish: $32.
Key Specs Material: Stainless steel * Total Length: 9 inches * Handle Length: 3.75 inches * Loop Length: 5.25 inches * Number Of Loops: 8 * Care Instructions:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe Competition Material Kitchen Mini Air Whisk: The squared-off loops on this whisk were not as effective as traditional loops in our tests, and its overall length disqualified it from being “mini.” * Rösle Mini Egg Whisk: Though it looks nearly identical to our winner, the slightly shorter loops couldn’t beat eggs as quickly. Plus, it’s more expensive. * Williams Sonoma Prep Tools Mini Whisk: The thicker-gauge loops really made a mess of things, splashing liquids up and out of bowls. This whisk was also too long to be truly considered “mini.” * American Metalware Mini Bar Whip: The angular loops on this whisk bumped up against the sides of the bowl, and its miniscule handle made it hard to control. * Mrs. Anderson’s Mini Baking Whisk:* The wire wrap handle on this whisk was just too thin to get a good grip, and it struggled to beat eggs swiftly.
FAQsWhat size is a mini whisk?There are no strict standards, but usually a mini whisk is considered to be smaller than 6.5 inches in total length. Some companies will use the “mini” label for whisks up to eight inches, but in our testing those whisks were usually too large to tackle the same tasks.
Why do I need a mini whisk?Mini whisks are great for smaller tasks or when cooking for yourself. They can be used to beat a single egg, whisk one serving of a vinaigrette, or even blend dry ingredients for spice mixes and baking tasks. Their strength lies in having shorter loops that work well with smaller bowls.
Is a silicone or stainless mini whisk better?A silicone coating is helpful for not scratching a pan or ceramic mixing bowl or for mixing sticky batters, but neither of those tasks is well-suited for a mini whisk. Most mini whisks are too small to use over a heat source or to mix a batter and, in our testing, we found uncoated stainless steel loops preferable.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineMoin moin, or moi moi, is a steamed Nigerian dish made of puréed seasoned black-eyed peas. If you’ve had crunchy, fried akara, moin moin is its soft and tender steamed sibling; both rely on a base of skinned peas. Moin moin is steamed in a variety of vessels including special aluminum cups with flat saucers for lids, ramekins, repurposed evaporated milk tins, and in moin moin leaves, the sturdy leaves of the Thaumatococcus daniellii plant (ewe eran in Yoruba and uma leaves in Igbo), which impart a sweet flavor and a light vegetal aroma.
The peas are prepared in an identical manner to akara. They are first soaked to soften the skins and help separate them from the rest of the bean. Then, they’re briefly pulsed in a blender to roughly break up the peas, which makes the final removal of the skins even easier. At this point, the peas are soaked a second time to soften them further and then fully blended with onions, peppers, water or stock, and sometimes oil to form a bean purée.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineMoin moin is typically formed into its signature pyramid shape by wrapping the filling in moin moin leaves. This can be a tricky assembly process to learn at first, as the uncooked purée is loose. My instructions in the recipe show how to properly form the moi moi using leaves, but I also include an easier method of simply steaming the moi moi in ramekins, which can then be served in the cups or unmolded onto a plate. If you do use the leaf wrappers, you can serve them in the leaves on a plate. While most of the filling stays in the center, some of it inevitably escapes and becomes trapped in between the folds of the leaves; those trapped bits are the most delicious bites.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineServed at a range of temperatures from hot to room temperature, moin moin is great on its own, plain or with add-ins like boiled eggs, canned fish like tuna or sardines, corned beef, and vegetables like carrots and bell peppers. It makes for a popular breakfast, served with sweet milky pap (fermented cornstarch), sweet custard, or oatmeal. Additionally, it’s often paired with rice; some of the best celebrations and parties will serve up plates of jollof rice, moin moin, salad, and dodo.
In a medium bowl, cover black-eyed peas with 2 inches water. Let soak at room temperature for at least 15 minutes and up to 1 hour (this short soaking time helps loosen the skins without overly softening the peas).
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineDrain peas then transfer to a countertop blender or food processor along with 1 quart (945ml) water. Pulse to slightly break up peas, about ten 1-second pulses. Pour into a medium bowl and let stand at room temperature for up to 30 minutes (skins will float to top as they separate from the peas).
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineSet a colander over a large bowl. Slowly pour soaking water into the colander while using a free hand to keep the peas in the soaking bowl; the goal is to pour off as much of the floating skins as possible while leaving the peas behind. Pick out any peas that landed in the colander and return them to the bowl, then discard skins and soaking water. Cover peas with water, and repeat process until peas are nearly free of skins (you may need to gently massage the peas with your hands to separate any stubborn skins).
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineTransfer skinned peas to the bowl. Add 2 cups (475ml) water and let stand at room temperature for 10 minutes (this will further soften the peas for blending).
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineDrain peas then transfer to a countertop blender or food processor. Add onion, bell pepper, stock, salt, and habanero or Scotch bonnet pepper (if using). Blend, scraping down sides occasionally with a flexible spatula, until a smooth purée has formed, about 3 to 4 minutes (if you rub the purée between your fingers, you shouldn’t see any recognizable pea chunks). Transfer purée to a large bowl, add oil, and whisk until well combined.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineTo Make Moin Moin in Leaves: Using a sharp knife, trim stalks from bottom of moin moin leaves. Arrange stalks in an even layer at the bottom of a large pot. Alternatively, skip the stalks and place a steaming rack instead. Cover with 2 leaves, to form a bed for steaming. Fill pot with 1/2 inch of hot water, or just to the top of the rack and set aside.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineIn one hand, hold a moin moin leaf vertically with the shiny side up. Set a second leaf on top of the first so that the base of their midribs meet and the second leaf is angled a little less than 45 degrees from the first leaf (it should look like the leaves are the hands of a clock, joined at their base with the first leaf pointing to 12 o'clock and the second leaf pointing to just past 1 o'clock).
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineUsing both hands and starting from the first leaf, roll the leaves to form a cone with the base of the midribs at the bottom point and open at the top. Fold the bottom 2 inches of the cone back and up to seal the base.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineHolding the cone with its open top facing up (and securing the folded bottom with one hand), spoon 1/2 cup (115g) moin moin purée into cone. Set an egg quarter in the center of the purée, then cover with 1/4 cup (58g) purée.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineTo close the cone, use your fingers to push a section at the top of the leaf cone in so it lays flat against the surface of the purée, then fold a second adjacent leaf section in over the first one. Fold the remaining excess leaf back and down so it meets the folded-up point at the base (they may not touch, or they may overlap, depending on the size of the leaves). Set the sealed leaf cone down on the bed of stems in the pot with the tucked-in ends on the underside to hold them in place (you may need to stack the cones on top of one another). Repeat with remaining leaves and purée; you should have 7 filled moin moin.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestinePlace 2 or 3 additional moin moin leaves on top of the cones, cover the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and steam until the leaves go from bright to dull green and moin moin is aromatic, about 40 minutes. Alternatively, a cake tester or skewer inserted into the thickest part of the moin moin should come out dry. Be sure to check water level every 10 to 15 minutes, topping up with more boiling water from the sides as needed to keep the pot from going dry. Transfer cooked moin moin to a wire rack and let cool for 10 minutes to allow the moin moin to firm up.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineTo Make Moin Moin in Ramekins: Lightly grease the interiors of 7 4-ounce ramekins with oil. Spoon purée into prepared ramekins until each is half full. Place an egg quarter, cut-side up, in the center of each ramekin, then cover with remaining purée until ramekins are about three-quarters full (the purée will rise as it cooks).
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineFill a large pot with 4-inches water. Place steamer rack inside, position filled ramekins on top of rack, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and cook until moin moin form domes on top, are firm to the touch, and spring back when pressed, about 30 minutes. Be sure to check water level occasionally, topping up with more boiling water from the sides as needed to keep the pot from going dry. Transfer ramekins to a wire rack and let cool for 10 minutes to allow the moin moin to firm up.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineServe in leaves or in ramekins; if you prefer to unmold the moin moin from ramekins, run a butter knife around the edges to loosen, set a serving plate on top, then flip right side up. Serve on its own, with salad, soaked garri, or sweetened oatmeal, or alongside jollof rice or Nigerian fried rice.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineSpecial EquipmentCountertop blender or food processor, seven 4-ounce ramekins (optional), steaming rack (optional)
NotesIf you like, you can mix 1 cup total (by volume) of drained canned tuna, canned corned beef, cooked diced vegetables like carrots, green beans, bell pepper, and corn, or raw prawns into the batter.
Moin moin leaves are available fresh and frozen at African markets and online. You can substitute with banana or plantain leaves, cut into 8-inch by 12-inch rectangles. Be sure to heat the leaves first to prevent them from splitting across the ribs.
Make-Ahead and StorageStored in an airtight container, moin moin kept in leaves or ramekins can be refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 1 month.
To reheat moin moin, refer to Step 6 for moin moin in leaves or Step 13 for moin moin in ramekins for steaming instructions. Arrange moin moin in pot, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low heat and cook until completely warmed through, about 10 minutes if refrigerated or 18 minutes if frozen.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWinter is upon us, and it's hard to do anything during these cold, dark days except sit on the couch and watch endless amounts of TV. If you're in a relationship, you may find it hard to even get out of the house and head to a nice restaurant for date night. So why not have date night at home? Doing so can be a fun way to change things up with a long-term partner, or can even help you impress the person you've been seeing for just a few weeks. Whether you're planning for Valentine's Day or just another Friday night, these date-night recipes—like citrusy red sangria and a quick Thai shrimp stir-fry—will help you put a lovely meal on the table for your special someone, no matter the occasion.
DrinksRed SangriaSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezCitrusy, sweet, and strong, this sangria is an ideal accompaniment to your date-night meal.
Pomegranate RougeDebbie WeeA subtly sweet and lightly tart drink perfect for every occasion.
AppetizersOysters RockefellerVicky WasikFor better and brighter oysters Rockefeller, lose the spinach and cream, prepare the topping in stages, then serve as a stand-out appetizer.
Classic Creamy Carrot SoupDebbie WeeRoasted carrots, simmered carrots, and carrot juice bring forth sweetness in this comforting appetizer.
Ukoy (Filipino Shrimp and Vegetable Fritters)Vicky WasikThese crisp, juicy shrimp and vegetable fritters are paired with a spiced vinegar for dipping.
MainsSole MeunièreSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis classic preparation is quick, easy, and arguably one of the best ways to serve delicate fillets.
MoussakaSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezA classic Greek dish made of rich, hearty layers of potato, eggplant, and tomato-based meat sauce, blanketed in creamy béchamel.
Goong Pad Nam Prik Pao (Thai Stir-Fried Shrimp With Chile Jam)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikA savory-sweet Thai stir-fry made with shrimp, oyster mushrooms, long beans, and nam prik pao.
Malloreddus Alla Campidanese (Sardinian Ridged Pasta With Saffron and Pork Ragù)Serious Eats / Lorena MassoTuck into this rich Sardinian dish of homemade semolina pasta swathed in a hearty pork ragù.
Braised Chinese-Style Short RibsEmily and Matt CliftonThese fork-tender ribs are braised with soy sauce, orange, and 5-spice powder for a comforting meal that's bursting with flavor.
Pasta alla GriciaVicky WasikGuanciale, black pepper, Pecorino Romano, and pasta come together in a study of delicious minimalism.
Salads and SidesTrevisano Radicchio Salad With Satsumas, Pistachios, and Calabrian Chile VinaigretteVicky WasikForget winter with this bright and citrusy chicory salad. The dressing brings together satsumas, pistachios, and Calabrian chile and takes the salad to the next level.
Chinese Eggplant SaladSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezA bright and spicy side dish, this salad is served cold and can stand on its own when eaten with flavorful stir-fries and braised meats.
Lyonnaise PotatoesVicky WasikA buttery union of crisp potatoes and meltingly tender onions—perfect next to meat dishes like steak or ribs.
Sous Vide Glazed CarrotsSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergSous vide carrots are intensely flavorful and perfectly cooked—every time.
DessertsBasque CheesecakeVicky WasikBasque cheesecake boasts a creamy center and a deeply caramelized "burnt" top and bottom, thanks to a high-temperature bake—no crust required.
Eggless Chocolate MousseVicky WasikThe creamy toffee notes of homemade condensed milk set this recipe apart from the custardy, yolk-rich profile of traditional chocolate mousse.
Ginger Spice BrowniesLiz VoltzA complex blend of spices complements the rich chocolate in these brownies and adds warmth.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyBased on a Jewish immigrant’s ceramic pan that came with her from Germany, the bundt pan gets its name from the German celebration or “gathering” cakes, i.e., bundkuchen, that were baked in it. This style of pan features an inner core that helps conduct heat into the center of the cake, as well as intricate designs that imprint onto the surface. Bundt pans as we know them today were first mass-produced by the brand Nordic Ware, but while they may have popularized the pan and put a copyright on the name, the market for “fluted tube pans” (as competitors call their products) is flush with offerings. There are pans made from aluminum (both cast and formed), steel, and even silicone. Nonstick coatings are commonplace due to the intricacy of the shapes and patterns, but we also tested a few alternatives, such as ceramic.
And since these cakes are often served minimally adorned (maybe with a dusting of cocoa powder or a thin glaze, if anything), any flaw on the surface is on display, making an even bake and a clean release especially important. We tested 11 bundt pans to find options that baked evenly, released easily, and resulted in a stunning cake.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Best Bundt Pan: Nordic Ware Platinum Collection Anniversary Bundt PanThe dramatic shape of this pan immediately caught our eye, and the resulting cakes and jello molds did not disappoint. Made of heavy cast aluminum, this pan evenly browned our olive-oil cake, and its non-stick coating held up well to our scratch test and released cakes and jello cleanly. Nordic Ware makes cast aluminum bundt pans, like this one, in a wide variety of designs.
The Best Bundt Pan If You’re Short on Space: Nordic Ware Formed-Aluminum Bundt PanThis classic, aluminum bundt pan performed extremely well in all our tests. Its standard 12-cup capacity and traditional, attractive design make it a perfect choice for those looking for one pan to do it all.
The Best Alternative Nonstick Bundt Pan: casaWare Fluted Cake Pan Ceramic Coated NonStickIf you’re looking for a bundt pan without a traditional, chemical-based non-stick coating, avoid silicone (which is floppy and bakes unevenly) and instead choose this ceramic-coated pan. It didn’t distribute heat quite as evenly as our top picks, but it released the cake and jello mold easily, and we were still impressed with its performance.
The TestsSerious Eats / Julia Stimeck Cake Test: We baked a double batch of olive oil cake in each pan after preparing the pan according to this method. We noted how easy it was to maneuver the pan, and how evenly the pan browned the cake's exterior. We also noted if the cake baked for a notably long or short amount of time. Then, we examined how well the pans imparted their shape and pattern onto the finished product. * Jello Mold Test (Winners-Only): We made an old-school Jello salad in our favorite pans to see how well they handled and released the delicate, jiggly substance. We whipped up four batches of this gelatin salad recipe (adapted to raspberry flavor due to a tragic lack of lime sherbet in December), refrigerated each overnight, and loosened each one by plunging the outside of the pan into hot water for 10 seconds before turning the finished product out onto a plate. * Durability Test: We scratched each pan lightly with a butter knife to mimic the act of removing the cake from the pan with a knife. We also rubbed the pan with the scratchy side of a sponge to note any damage to the non-stick coating through normal washing. During other tests, we noted whether the compromised coating affected performance. * Usability and Cleanup Tests:* Throughout testing, we noted how easy the pans were to maneuver and whether their handles (if present) were helpful while the pan was right-side up (full of batter or jello) as well as upside down during the removal process. We also examined how easy the pans were to clean.
What We LearnedAluminum Pans Baked and Browned the Most EvenlySerious Eats / Julia StimeckDifferent pan materials conduct heat differently. Since the surface of the cake is visible in the final product, our favorite pans were the ones that browned the cake evenly all over. We baked each cake until the internal temperature reached 200° Fahrenheit, stabilizing pans by placing them on a baking sheet (which, it should be noted, conducts heat on its own). We found that aluminum pans, such as the two Nordic Ware models, and some of the steel pans conducted heat the most evenly and did not create hotspots. Our least favorite models (including the Trudeau Structured Silicone Fluted Bundt pan, 8 1/2 cup made of silicone and the Wilton Perfect Results Premium Non-stick 9-Inch Fluted Tube Pan made of steel showed excessive browning on the top tips of the cake where the pan rested on the sheet pan, while simultaneously looking pale and underbaked near the inner ring. This issue was most glaring in the silicone pans, both of which featured a steel rim to stabilize the mold.
Looks MatteredSerious Eats / Grace KellyThis metric may be a bit more subjective, but since all bundt pans feature some decorative elements, we thought it was important to test how successfully the pans imprinted their designs on the cakes and jello molds we made.
The pans that formed the best-looking cakes and molds were those with deeply-imprinted designs that carried over the whole pan (inside, outside, and down to the bottom). Since cakes and breads rise in the oven, the last inch or two of pan toward the opening won’t make contact with the baked goods inside until part-way through the baking process. As a result, the pattern on this part of the pan (which always seems to feature the most intricate and delicate design) will not be imparted on the food inside in nearly as much detail. You likely don’t know ahead of time exactly where your batter will hit in the pan, so you risk cutting off the design in a weird spot. Pans that carried one pattern to the bottom were our preference for cake baking.
Handles Were Nice, but Not Make-or-BreakSome of the Bundt pans we tested had handles, a few of which were even padded with silicone, but we found that the presence or absence of handles made little difference in the maneuverability of the pans. For baking, we always recommend placing the pans on a sheet pan to stabilize them in the oven (otherwise the fluted surface may slip between the rungs of the oven rack leading to a tilted bake), so we found ourselves handling the sheet pan rather than the cake itself when moving it around the oven. We appreciated having solid handles to hold onto when dunking the jello mold in the hot water bath, but they got in the way when we tried to flip pans over onto a rimmed dinner plate. Since handles are not a make-or-break feature, consider skipping them if you’re short on cabinet space or unlikely to make a jello mold.
Nonstick Coatings Were Necessary but Not Always DurableReleasing a bundt cake from the pan is a notoriously fraught endeavor. Other cake pans can be lined with parchment, have spring-trap sides, or at the very least you can run a knife around the edges. With its corners, curves, and divots, a bundt pan rejects all of these helpful tricks, and the baker is totally reliant on the pan to release the cake. Most bundt pans achieve this by using non-stick coatings.
All of the pans we tested excelled in their ability to cleanly release their cakes and jello sculptures, even after we scratched them with a knife and a rough sponge. However, every pan, except those made of silicone, showed visible scratches after just ten light jabs with a butter knife. While some showed insignificant damage, others, like the USA Pan Bakeware Nonstick Fluted Tube Cake Pan, Anolon Advanced Nonstick Fluted Mold Baking Pan With Silicone Grips, and Wilton Perfect Results Premium Non-Stick 9-Inch Fluted Tube Pan flaked very easily. Since the nonstick coating is so essential to the functionality of the pan, and because nonstick coatings can break down into harmful chemicals over time, we recommend staying away from pans whose coatings can be easily damaged.
Silicone Bundt Pans Weren’t Worth the TroubleCakes baked in aluminum browned evenly, while cakes baked in silicone were underbaked in some spots and over baked in others.Serious Eats / Julia StimeckWhile we were excited to try the silicone pans as a safer and more durable alternative to nonstick coatings, we were disappointed with the results. The pans imparted crisp designs and released cakes easily, but they were difficult to maneuver, spilling their contents when lifted. During the olive oil cake test, we accidentally placed one silicone pan too close to the oven wall, leading to a visibly uneven cake. The two silicone pans we tested performed the worst in the olive oil cake test, browning the cakes extremely unevenly. They are also difficult to wash, squirming away from the sponge in the sink.
The Ideal Pan Size Was Between 10 to 12 CupsMost of the pans we tested had an interior diameter of nine to ten inches, a height around 3.5 inches, and held approximately 90 fluid ounces of batter. These pans fit our test batches perfectly without the need to add or subtract extra batter, like we did for the fifteen-cup Nordic Ware Platinum Collection Anniversary Bundt Pan (which we loved enough to call it our winner anyways), and the Trudeau 05115204M Structured Silicone Fluted Bundt pan, 8 1/2 cup. Since most bundt pans have a 10 to 12 cup capacity, if you want to use a recipe designed for a standard bundt pan without doing any complicated math, keep these measurements in mind: your recipe should fill the bundt pan approximately 2/3 to 3/4 of the way. If it’s any higher than that, spoon some batter out; it’s better to waste a little than to make a mess in the oven.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Good Bundt PanSerious Eats / Grace KellyA good bundt pan should brown cakes evenly, release its contents easily, and hold up to normal wear and tear. We preferred pans made of aluminum for its excellent heat distribution. Bonus points were awarded for deep ridges and dramatic designs.
The Best Bundt Pan: Nordic Ware Platinum Collection Anniversary Bundt PanWhat we liked: Sporting the deepest ridges, this pan produced cakes with the most striking design of all of the pans we tested. Although this pan held more batter (a whopping 15 cups) than any other pan we tested, its continuous design from inner ring to outer ring meant that no matter what level we filled it to, we were going to get a gorgeous cake with the same design from top to bottom. This pan also aced our durability test: the nonstick coating scratched ever so slightly, but the difference was imperceptible and didn’t affect bakes. The durable and rigid nature of the cast aluminum lends this pan well to intricate designs, too, because the pan’s shape is created by injecting molten metal into a mold rather than pressing or stamping the shape into a sheet of metal.
What we didn’t like: While there was almost nothing we didn’t like about this pan, its large size made it less versatile than our top pick in a few ways. First, if you don’t have a lot of room (in your cupboard or oven) you may want to consider a smaller option. Another downside of this pan’s large size is the cake has a long way to fall when coming out of the pan. The jello mold, which didn’t fill the pan all the way, hit the plate quite hard on its way out, and splattered along the edges.
Price at time of publish: $35.
Key Specs Weight: 1 lb 11.4 oz * Materials: Cast aluminum with nonstick coating * Dimensions: 12 x 10.75 x 4.5 inches * Capacity: 124 fluid ounces (15.5 cups) * Cleaning and Care:* Hand-wash recommended, no metal tools or abrasive cleaners
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Best Bundt Pan If You’re Short on Space: Nordic Ware Formed-Aluminum Bundt PanWhat we liked: Featuring a sharp and well-defined pattern, this pan baked a beautiful cake and formed a gorgeous jello mold. It browned cake extremely evenly and released them with ease. While its lack of significant handles may cause slight inconvenience, we thought it was worth it for a smaller footprint, and its light weight contributes to its convenience and maneuverability. The coating performed extremely well in our scratch and wash tests, showing very little damage.
What we didn’t like: The deep ridges that form the designs we love also make the pan a bit more difficult to clean.
Price at time of publish: $28.
Key Specs Weight: 14.2 oz * Materials: Formed aluminum with nonstick coating * Dimensions: 10.75 x 10 x 3.5 inches * Capacity: 95 fluid ounces ( 11.9 cups) * Cleaning and Care:* Hand-wash only, no metal tools or abrasive cleaners
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Best Alternative Nonstick Bundt Pan: casaWare Fluted Cake Pan Ceramic Coated NonStickWhat we liked: The ceramic coating passed our durability test with flying colors; the scratches were almost undetectable. The cake and jello mold also released easily from the pan, and the ceramic coating comes in a few fun colors. This pan did not bake the most evenly, but it was far from the worst.
What we didn’t like: The ridges of this mold were pretty subtle, leading to a fairly boring final product. The pan baked more quickly on the outer edges, leading to a paler inner ring.
Price at time of publish: $23.
Key Specs Weight: 1 lb, 2.8 oz * Materials: Steel with ceramic coating * Dimensions: 12 x 10.5 x 3.5 inches * Capacity: 90 fluid ounces (11.25 cups) * Cleaning and Care:* Hand-wash recommended, no metal tools or abrasive cleaners
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Competition Wilton Perfect Results Premium Non-stick 9-Inch Fluted Tube Pan: This steel alloy pan browned the outside of the cake too much while leaving the inside pale. The fluted design was barely noticeable on the finished product. * Anolon Advanced Nonstick Fluted Mold Baking Pan With Silicone Grips: This carbon steel pan baked unevenly,with a darker outside and lighter inner core. We liked the grippy handles, but don’t use the handles frequently enough to need them, and cleaning around them is a pain. * Trudeau 05115204M Structured Silicone Fluted Bundt pan, 8 1/2 cup: Our least favorite pan of the bunch, this silicone pan produced a very uneven bake. It also featured a slick, staticky surface that was an absolute magnet for dust and hair. And at 8.5cup capacity, it was the smallest pan we tested. * USA Pan Bakeware Nonstick Fluted Tube Cake Pan: Made of aluminized steel this pan baked similarly to other steel pans creating an unevenly baked surface. A similar price to our winner ($35 at time of publish) it did not perform nearly as well. * Le Creuset Bundt Pan: Unlike Le Creuset’s famous dutch ovens, their bundt pan is not coated in enamel, but rather non-stick coating. The coating was durable and did well in our scratch test, but the material of the pan did not bake the cake evenly. In our olive oil cake test, the outside of the cake was nearly burnt by the time the cake was fully cooked. We were also not enamored with the cake’s subtle design and the straight inner tube was more reminiscent of angel food cake pans, which are necessarily simple due to the extremely sticky nature of that cake. * Cuisinart Chef's Classic 9.5" Non-Stick Two-Toned Fluted Cake Pan: This pan featured a straight inner tube that formed a visible seam on our finished cake, and it was difficult to clean around. It also baked much more quickly on the outside due to its dark coating. * Calphalon Classic Bakeware 10-Inch Nonstick Fluted Cake Pan: This pan did relatively well in our olive oil cake and durability tests, but didn’t feature any standout features that would categorize it as a winner. At $19.99 it’s a solid budget choice. * Lekue Red Silicone Deep Savarin Baking Mold:* We loved the design on the upper half of this silicone mold, but the bottom bit faded away. Both of the silicone pans we tested browned our cakes extremely unevenly, but released their contents easily.
FAQsWhat is the best material for a bundt pan?We recommend aluminum pans for their ability to distribute heat evenly and bake cakes with even browning all over.
What’s the best way to remove a cake from a bundt pan? Let your cake cool in the pan for approximately ten minutes before you try to take it out. Gently tug the edges of the cake away from the pan to loosen it. Place a plate or sheet pan on top of the opening of your pan, and flip both the cake and the base over together. If you give it a few firm taps and the cake still doesn’t give way, try submerging the outside of the pan in a hot water bath for a few seconds before trying again. If you’re still having trouble, let your cake cool completely and use your fingers to gently pull the cake away from the edges of the pan, trying to identify the stuck spot. Use a plastic knife or wooden chopstick (never use metal tools, which may chip away at the nonstick coating) to gently dislodge the problem area. When you’re ready to serve, hit this area with a little extra frosting or powdered sugar—no one has to know!
Do I need to coat the inside of a bundt pan with cooking spray?You should definitely coat the inside of your pan before baking, however, most pan manufacturers recommend against using cooking spray since it can leave a residue that will build up on the nonstick coating. Instead, you can brush on some melted butter or oil. If you choose to use cooking spray, wipe any exposed spray from the edges of the pan before baking, and be sure to wash thoroughly but gently after baking.
What are the common sizes of bundt pans?Bundt pans are normally measured by diameter, but what you will really want to know is how many ounces of batter the cake can hold. We've included the volume of the pans we recommended. Ten to twelve cups is the most common size for bundt pans. If you would like to find out the capacity of a pan you already have, pour water into it, one cup at a time, until you reach the top. Alternatively, you can pour water into the pan while it sits on a scale that measures in ounces. For water (and only water!) one fluid ounce weighs one ounce. Divide by eight to see how many cups your pan holds.
How do you keep a cake from sticking inside a bundt pan?Spread a thin layer of melted butter or oil over the interior surface of your pan using a pastry brush. Let the pan rest upside down over some paper towels to allow any excess oil to drip off. Then, use a sieve to apply a thin layer of flour or cocoa powder (for chocolate cakes) over the entire surface. Aim to make your coating as light and even as possible since any buildup on the pan may be visible on the final product. Make sure you’re following the manufacturer’s instructions to care for your pan - once the nonstick coating is gone, it’s gone (and if your cakes stick consistently, it may be time for a new pan). If the coating on your pan is decades old or has broken down from misuse, it may be safest to invest in a new pan.
What can you make in a bundt pan?Cakes are not the only thing you can make in your bundt pan. Try using it as a gorgeous mold for jello or flan. The pans are also a great alternative to loaf pans for baked goods such as bread or babka. The dimensions are similar to those of two loaf pans put together, so think about other things (meatloaf anyone?) that you’d bake in a loaf pan, and double that recipe. You can also use it to support a whole chicken in the oven (similar to beer can chicken), but be careful not to exceed the manufacturer’s recommended maximum temperature. Keep in mind that the nonstick coating is tailored to protect the pan against the stickiness of sugar, not protein, so meat-based recipes may be best suited for your nearly-retired bundt pans. Given that nonstick coatings have a finite lifespan, we do not recommend using a new bundt pan for anything other than its intended purpose.
What shouldn't you make in a bundt pan? Any recipe that calls for a specialized, easy-release pan such as a springform pan (like cheesecake) or a pan with a false bottom (like an angel food cake pan) should be avoided. If a recipe requires a pan like that, it won’t release easily from the nooks and crannies of a bundt pan or the rise of the cake may be hampered by the nonstick coating of the pan.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOne could argue that there's no single dish that more fully encompasses traditional Korean cuisine than bibimbap. Literally a combination of the Korean words bibim (mixing) and bap (rice), bibimbap comes in many varieties and involves mixing together rice with different side dishes (banchan) that are cooked separately—it's a complex, millennium-old tradition defined by eating rice with multiple side dishes concentrated into a single bowl. And because you could, hypothetically, mix rice with any combination of toppings both at home and in restaurants, there isn’t one universal recipe for bibimbap, nor is there a right or wrong way to make it.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
This recipe gives instructions for bibimbap that’s topped with ground beef and individual banchan of carrot, squash, radish kimchi, spinach, mushrooms, and fried eggs. While we highly recommend making all of these toppings, you should feel free to omit some depending on your convenience or preference, or to substitute with other banchan or types of kimchi you may have. That’s the fun of bibimbap—all the possibilities.
Common Types of BibimbapOf all the various bibimbaps found in Korea, the most lavish is Jeonju bibimbap, found mainly at restaurants piled high with about 30 different toppings, including bracken (a type of fern), bellflower roots, various dried vegetables (namool), and yukhoe (Korean-style raw beef). Due to the amount of labor required to prepare the ingredients needed for this dish, many places no longer offer true Jeonju bibimbap. Today, most restaurants in Seoul serve bibimbap with raw and sautéed vegetables in place of Jeonju's traditional garnishes. Many toppings are derived from dishes used in religious rituals, and as modern Korean society moves away from these customs, finding and preparing ingredients like dried vegetables has become more complicated and challenging.
Other types of popular bibimbap include ones topped with sea pineapple (a sea squirt that’s best in April), yukhoe, and sanchae (wild mountain greens). While bibimbap comes in these and a multitude of other forms in restaurants, the most beloved type of bibimbap in Korea today is what I'd refer to as the homestyle version, which usually consists of leftover banchan (side dishes), a dollop of gochujang, and a drizzle of sesame oil. (In fact, bibimbap's popularity at restaurants in South Korea has fallen off at least in part because it's so easy to make at home using whatever banchan you have in the fridge.)
Although Korean cuisine continues to evolve, and despite bibimbap's infinite possible forms, there are certain ingredients that usually come to mind when bibimbap is mentioned, including beansprouts, fresh radish kimchi, sautéed Korean squash, and spinach namool. This recipe is intended to be easy to make and delicious, and representative of Korean bibimbap as you'd see it in many homes today.
The Origins of BibimbapThere are several theories about the origins of bibimbap, though most are built on the same basic idea that the classical, millennium-old tradition of preparing multiple side dishes to serve alongside rice (known as "Bapsang Culture") led to the inevitable practice of putting it all in one bowl together. Some argue this practice sprung up after days of commemorating the dead, when families cook many dishes to ceremonially serve to their ancestors—combining those dishes in one bowl not only makes efficient use of leftovers, but also represents the idea that the family is unified as one.
Some trace bibimbap to farming practices, where appetites were large after hours in the field, but time was short to put it all together into a meal. Others simply think the practicality and ease of mixing it all together in one bowl made it a fairly obvious practice regardless of occasion or locale. According to scholars from the Academy of Korea Studies and Korea Food Research Institute in Songnam, South Korea, bibimbap “developed alongside the Korean meal table,” where rice was (and still is) enjoyed with soup and an assortment of banchan. Whatever the specifics of bibimbap's origin, the dish's melding of multiple components into a single bowl is a reflection of Korea's "we" culture, which can also be seen in the fact that in Korean, we always say "our" mother/father/country and not "my" mother/father/country.
How to Prepare BibimbapIt is crucial to prepare all the ingredients for bibimbap separately—this allows you to control the doneness and seasonings of each ingredient during their prep.
Any of the vegetables and meat can be julienned or sliced thinly to make them easy to mix. How long you spend preparing the vegetables will depend on how many toppings you’d like, your knife skills, and your speed as a cook. This recipe is written for maximum ease, but if you’re a more confident home cook, you can change the order of the recipe for a faster total prep time.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo assemble bowls of bibimbap, start by mounding a layer of cooked short-grain rice in serving bowls, then artfully arrange each prepared vegetable and meat on top and drizzle lightly with sesame oil. Though the vegetables can be enjoyed room temperature or warm, the rice should be hot. Serve with a sunny side-up egg on top, if desired.
How to Eat BibimbapA dollop of gochujang (red pepper paste) is an essential part of bibimbap, though you can also use a variety of mixed sauces, like store-bought or homemade yak gochujang (gochujang mixed with sautéed ground beef), ganjang soy sauce, or gang doenjang (a thick soybean paste stew). Exactly how much gochujang you add is also a personal decision: In addition to the dollop served with each bowl, it's best to put a small bowl of additional gochujang on the table so diners can add more, if desired, as they mix it all together before eating.
To Marinate the Beef: In a medium bowl, season ground beef with soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, black pepper, and garlic. Let marinate for at least 10 minutes and up to 45 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeanwhile, for the Radish Kimchi: In a large mixing bowl, combine the radish with salt, gochugaru, garlic, shrimp paste, maesil syrup, and ginger. Massage seasonings into radish until it softens; there may be some juice. Add the sliced spring onion and sesame powder, then toss lightly to combine. Set aside and allow to sit for at least 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Spinach: In a medium saucepan of salted boiling water, cook spinach until wilted, about 1 minute. Immediately drain in a colander or strainer and rinse under cold water. In a medium bowl, toss spinach with chopped garlic, salt, soy sauce, sesame oil, and toasted sesame powder. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Bean Sprouts: In a medium saucepan, combine bean sprouts with just enough water to cover. Cover saucepan and set over medium heat until water comes to simmer and sprouts are steamed and crisp-tender, about 10 minutes total. Drain and rinse sprouts immediately under cold water. In a medium bowl, season sprouts with soy sauce, salt, toasted sesame powder, chopped garlic, and sesame oil. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Carrots: Wipe the pan out, drizzle in perilla oil, and set over medium heat. Add perilla oil, carrots, a pinch of salt, and cook, stirring often, until slightly softened, about 8 minutes; add water as needed in 1 tablespoon (15ml) increments to keep the carrots plump during cooking and prevent browning, but without making them overly wet. Transfer to a plate or small bowl and set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Squash: In a 10-inch nonstick skillet, combine perilla oil with squash, garlic, and shrimp paste and set over medium heat. Cover and cook, stirring often and lifting the lid only to check cooking progress, until squash is tender but still holds its shape, about 5 minutes. (Covering the skillet traps stream, which we want here to prevent browning and keep the squash extra plump). Transfer to a plate or small bowl and set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Shiitake Mushrooms: Wipe the pan out, drizzle in the perilla oil, and set over medium heat. Add sliced mushrooms, and garlic, and cook, stirring often, until mushrooms begin to soften, about 7 minutes; add water as needed in 1 tablespoon (15ml) increments to keep the mushroom plump and tender during cooking and prevent browning, but do not make them overly wet. Stir in soy sauce and freshly ground black pepper. Transfer to a plate or bowl and set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Rice: In a large bowl, cover rice with water and, using your hands, swish and rinse rice until water becomes cloudy, about 30 seconds. Using a fine-mesh strainer, drain rice, then repeat until the water runs clear. Transfer drained rice to the bowl of a rice cooker. Add 1 cup water and cook according to manufacturer's instructions. Alternatively, in a medium saucepan, combine drained rice with 1 cup water, bring to a simmer over medium heat, then cover, lower heat to low, and cook until rice is tender and fluffy, about 15 minutes or following timing on rice package. Remove from heat, fluff rice, then keep warm until ready to serve.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo Finish and Serve: In a large nonstick skillet, heat 1 tablespoon (15ml) oil over medium-high until it begins to shimmer. Add the marinated beef and cook, stirring often, until cooked through and lightly browned, about 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer beef to a clean bowl and set aside; wipe out skillet. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons (30ml) oil and heat until slightly shimmering. Break four eggs into the skillet, season with salt, and cook until whites are just set and the yolks are still runny, about 3 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFill four bowls with steamed rice. Wet the radish kimchi in its juice and arrange the prepared toppings on the rice in a circular pattern. Top each bowl with a sunnyside egg, a spoonful of gochujang, and a drizzle of sesame oil. Serve, passing additional gochujang at the table for diners to mix in to taste.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment10-inch nonstick skillet
NotesFor best results, use a knife to prepare the vegetables and avoid using the food processor, as it may result in over-processed, mushy vegetables.
Make Ahead and StorageAll the components can be made in advance. Koreans are eating a meal composed of side dishes and a bowl of rice and soup, and we often easily add all left-over side dishes into a bowl of rice and mix them together with a dollop of Gochujang and drizzle of sesame oil together.
The radish kimchi can be prepared 2-3 days in advance.
Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinIn many kitchens, a colorful, enameled Dutch oven is an irreplaceable staple used to stews, soups, and braises, and even to bake loaves of crusty bread.
And, if properly cared for, a Dutch oven can last many, many years (in fact, most manufacturers offer lifetime warranties). But how does one properly care for and clean a Dutch oven? What about tough stains or burnt on bits? Are dings, chips, and dents normal? To find out how to preserve and care for this kitchen workhorse, we chatted with folks from popular brands Le Creuset and Staub (the makers behind two of our two favorite Dutch ovens) to get the best tips for cleaning your pot.
First, Let’s Cover the Basics: What is a Dutch Oven?Dutch ovens (also sometimes referred to as cocottes) are pots made out of enameled cast iron that can be used on the stovetop and inside the oven (both Staub and Le Creuset boast that theirs can withstand up to 500°F). Dutch ovens come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors, and are known for being hefty, sturdy, and for excelling in distributing and retaining heat. Plus, their enamel coating helps make them somewhat naturally nonstick, without any chemicals. And, a well-made Dutch oven can last a lifetime—if you take proper care of it.
Basic Daily Cleaning and CareSerious Eats / Abigail ClarkinNate Collier, director of marketing communications and culinary for Le Creuset, told us hard-to-clean stains often form on Dutch ovens due to improper heating.
“One of the most common reasons for stuck-on food is using a heat setting that is too high,” he says. “Because Le Creuset enameled cast iron has exceptional heat distribution and retention, you only need to use low or medium heat while cooking.”
In addition to taking care not to blast the heat on your Dutch oven, Staub, another legacy Dutch oven brand, has a few tips to ensure your pot's cleanliness and longevity.
In a short, informative video on cleaning Dutch ovens, Staub recommends the following: 1. Soak using hot water and your choice of dish soap. 2. Wash with a non-abrasive cloth or sponge. 3. Put the dish away when completely dry.
And while many Dutch ovens—including those from Le Creuset and Staub—are technically dishwasher-safe, we caution against using the dishwasher, as this can cause the enamel finish to dull. (If your Dutch oven is looking a little dull and needs a refresh, rubbing a tiny bit of vegetable oil on the interior with a paper towel will do the trick.)
While many stains can be taken care of by hand cleaning with soap and water, repeated use of any beloved Dutch oven can lead to normal wear and tear such as scratches, faint stains, and general dulling of the enamel.
For Tough MessesPerhaps you accidentally left some sauteing onions unattended for too long, and now they are crispy and stubbornly burnt to the bottom of the pan. In this case, it’s time to move beyond the simple soap, soak, and wash method. Collier at Le Creuset suggests “filling the pot with warm water and a tablespoon or two of baking soda, and bring the water to a simmer for about 8 to 10 minutes” before scrubbing, rinsing, and drying. This can be repeated as necessary.
Alternatively, the team over at Staub suggest boiling a 50/50 mixture of white vinegar and water in the Dutch oven. After, once the cookware is completely cooled, clean it with basic dish soap and then thoroughly rinse and dry it.
For Stubborn StainsIf stains on either the inside or outside of your Dutch oven won't go away no matter how many times you try the soap, baking soda, or white vinegar solutions, then it may be time to go another route. In this case, Staub recommends using Bar Keepers Friend, a soft cleanser. Simply rinse your Dutch oven with water, and while it’s still wet, sprinkle some of Bar Keepers Friend Cleanser on the bottom of the pot or whatever spot you’re trying to clean. Then, scrub the Dutch oven with a sponge using a circular motion. Finally, rinse and dry the pot completely. (These steps can be repeated if necessary.)
America’s Test Kitchen suggests using an easy bleach solution (especially for Dutch ovens with a light-colored enamel interior). They say to “make a solution of one part bleach to three parts water and let it sit in the pot overnight. If it’s extremely stained, you might have to do it again the next night.”
What to Avoid When CleaningSerious Eats / Abigail ClarkinThere are a couple of ways to ensure that your Dutch oven lives a long, beautiful life. One simple way to avoid damaging it is to not use steel wool or any other sort of abrasive cleaning cleaning pad that can scratch the enamel. Instead, opt for a regular sponge, dish rag, or soft brush. When you're finished cleaning, make sure that the Dutch oven is completely dry before storing it, as to avoid rusting on the upper rim.
To avoid cracking the enamel, Le Creuset suggests steering clear of putting a hot Dutch oven in direct contact with cold water or air. Collier says that a “drastic change in temperature may result in cracking of the enamel. So if you are storing your cookware in a particularly hot or cold place, allow it to slowly acclimate to the ambient temperature before using.”
One more trick to preserve the enamel is, as we said above, to avoid cleaning the Dutch oven in the dishwasher. While many Dutch ovens—including much of Le Creuset’s cookware—are indeed dishwasher-safe, repeated trips through the washer can wear out the enamel finish. (Side note: we don’t recommend placing many things that are purportedly dishwasher-safe in the dishwasher. Here’s why.)
When to Replace a Dutch OvenSerious Eats / Will DickeyDutch ovens can withstand quite a bit of heat (no pun intended; some can sustain up to 500°F). With regular cleaning and maintenance, a Dutch oven can last for a good chunk of time. As to be expected, though, using a Dutch oven often can result in some light dings and scratches, but often the dish is still safe to use. However, if the damage is severe enough that there is actual chipped or peeling enamel on the bottom, then continuing to use the dish is not recommended. After all, no one wants to gamble with the possibility of chipped enamel ending up in their food. Make sure to check your particular Dutch oven’s warranty to see what's covered.
In Short, Taking Care of Your Dutch Oven Can Ensure Its LongevitySerious Eats / Will DickeyDutch ovens are versatile kitchen workhorses that have a place in any kitchen. And, if taken care of, they can last years on end. It is normal for there to be some wear and tear in the form of faint stains, dulled enamel, and light marks from utensils. And if you’re using your Dutch oven for baking or stovetop-to-oven applications, it’s also likely the pot will get brown specks on the exterior, which is a result of oil polymerization, which, while tough to remove, doesn’t hinder performance.
But it isn’t hard to keep your Dutch oven’s interior clean; hot water and soap will do the trick most of the time. For more challenging messes—such as staining or burnt on bits—Bar Keepers Friend, or various mixtures of baking soda, vinegar, or bleach are effective. Above all, make sure to avoid abrasive cleaning materials and don't rely on the dishwasher to keep your pot clean. Do all this, and your Dutch oven could last a lifetime.
FAQsWhat is the best way to clean a dutch oven?The simplest way to clean your Dutch oven is to soak it with hot water and dish soap. Then, wash it with a cloth or sponge that is not abrasive (you don’t want to accidentally scratch the enamel). When the dish is rinsed, let it completely dry before storing.
How do you clean a badly stained Dutch oven?There are a couple of straightforward fixes for attacking any major staining on your Dutch oven. One is to simmer warm water and a few tablespoons of baking soda in the pot for 8 to 10 minutes. Another option is to combine a 50/50 mixture of white vinegar and water, and bring it to a boil. After it cools, clean it with water, dish soap, and a non-abrasive sponge or cloth. If you’re still having trouble with stains, then try making a paste with this cleanser from Bar Keepers Friend and letting it sit for a while before rinsing it off. Alternatively, try a solution of one part bleach to three parts water soak inside your Dutch oven overnight before cleaning with soap and water.
How do you clean a non-enameled Dutch oven?While many popular brands offer enameled cast iron Dutch ovens, there are also uncoated Dutch ovens that require a whole different set of cleaning rules. Our guide to cleaning uncoated cast iron can be found here (we reference a skillet, but the same rules apply to a cast iron Dutch oven).
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubHome espresso is daunting. You need a grinder, espresso machine, and bevy of tools for distributing, tamping, cleaning, and milk steaming. It can quickly become an expensive hobby that requires hands-on training to perfect, and there are lots of differing opinions on how to distribute the coffee in the basket, and even how to hold a tamper. There’s no one right way to pull a shot, but even trying to find best practices can be confusing.
On the flipside, espresso machines with built-in grinders usually sacrifice precision and quality for convenience. Standalone espresso grinders, like the Baratza Sette 270, aren’t limited by the amount of space they can take up, and most offer more grind settings, a more powerful motor, and higher quality burrs. Home espresso novices are usually then forced to compromise: spend money and dedicate free time to learning the ropes, or prioritize consistency over quality.
The Breville Barista Express Impress and its built-in grinder are designed to eliminate that compromise with an auto coffee dosing feature and an assisted tamping arm, which portions out coffee for the user and lines up a tamping piston with a simple-to-use lever. These functions eliminate training as an entry-barrier, and help add consistency to a shot pulling workflow for any home espresso user.
We’ve previously named Breville’s Bambino Plus as our top espresso machine, and have been impressed with the company’s small innovations towards making home espresso more approachable to more people. After testing, we think the Barista Express Impress continues those advancements, so we named it another top pick in our espresso machine round up.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubHow We TestedTo properly test this machine, we went through over five pounds of two different coffees, evaluating its performance with a standard espresso blend and a lighter-roasted single origin coffee. We pulled back to back shots, noting the weight the grinder delivered, and adjusted the grind until we could pull a great tasting shot of espresso. We also tested the consistency and accuracy of the volumetric espresso shot buttons, and used the steam wand to steam milk, checking to see if it could create microfoam finely textured enough to pour latte art.
How It WorksEspresso machines are complicated, but at the core, they’re designed to heat water in a boiler, pressurize that water with a pump, and deliver it through a screen that distributes it directly over a tamped coffee bed. Typically, you would have to grind coffee in a dedicated espresso grinder, portion it out into the portafilter basket (also known as dosing), compact the espresso into a puck using a handheld tamper, and insert it into the machine to pull the shot. Other espresso machines with built-in grinders typically rely on the user manually tweaking how much coffee is delivered by adjusting a timer, but the Barista Express Impress goes a step further.
Intelligent DosingSerious Eats / Jesse RaubOne of the key parts of pulling an espresso shot is having a consistent dose of coffee every single time, and that’s a difficult thing for a machine to deliver. Grinders usually are programmed based on time, so if you grind your coffee finer to slow down the flow of the espresso shots, it also takes longer to grind that same amount of coffee. That means a built-in timer on a grinder will deliver less coffee the next time you go to pull a shot unless you readjust the coffee dosing dial.
This is important, because the overall time of an espresso shot relies on both how coarse or fine the grind is, as well as how much coffee the water travels through. If the espresso filter basket is designed to hold 18 grams of coffee and the grinder doses 17 grams, the tamped puck will be shorter, and provide less resistance to the pressurized water, causing the shot to run faster—the opposite of the desired effect.
The way the new system works is based not just on a timer, but the bed depth of the espresso puck once tamped. The portafilter is set in the grinder cradle, a button starts the grinding process, and the real magic begins when the tamper lever is pulled down to tamp the coffee. The user is then met with a row of lights labeled “Dose Level” that show the coffee’s puck height. Right in the middle, there’s a green light and a smiley face, indicating the proper amount of coffee dose. If the dose is too high, the system automatically will dose out less coffee the next time you grind. If it’s too low, the machine prompts you to grind a little more coffee and tamp again, so it can learn how much more to add. That means that no matter how you change the grind, the machine is constantly calculating how to deliver the same amount of coffee: there’s not a single commercial espresso grinder that does this, making this system truly unique.
Assisted TampingSerious Eats / Jesse RaubBuilt into the portafilter cradle is also a tamping piston. Manually tamping an espresso puck can be tricky to master, and requires learning a proper grip technique that delivers a level puck of coffee every time while also being ergonomic enough to prevent repetitive motion injuries. On this machine, the tamping piston is automatically aligned with the portafilter basket, and a lever on the side of the machine delivers a consistent amount of force every single time.
It’s a nice touch for novices who might not be familiar with all the steps required to pull a shot of espresso, but it’s also key for the intelligent dosing feature to be able to function. Because it delivers the same pressure in the same manner with every lever pull, the machine then relies on that feedback to adjust the amount of coffee dosed. By pairing these two systems together, the Barista Express Impress eliminated two of the most common steps that can confound a new home barista.
What We LearnedUser Experience Was Top NotchAs a consumer product company, Breville has really put a focus on user experience. Their machines come with every tool one might need for making coffee and taking care of the machine. It might be shocking, but most home espresso machines don’t come with a milk steaming pitcher, grouphead cleaning brush, or distribution tool, and they definitely don’t come with a secret drawer to hold all these tools that stashes itself behind the drip tray.
The drip tray itself is also smartly designed, with multiple layers. There’s a flat tray under the grinder side of the machine that catches any stray coffee grounds before they mix with the water that collects at the bottom of the drip tray, and when the water starts to fill up, a floating warning sign pops up to tell you to empty it.
The buttons on the machine light up to relay the next step to follow in the shot pulling process, and if you need extra guidance for a cleaning cycle, they’re printed directly on the front of the water reservoir. Breville is dedicated to walking its users through the espresso process, and even longtime barista pros were impressed by the details not usually found in espresso machines.
Assisted Tamping Worked Great Serious Eats / Jesse RaubTamping an espresso puck is necessary for the water to evenly move through the coffee, and it can be tricky to learn at home without hands-on teaching. The assisted tamping piston on this machine delivered a level tamped puck with every lever pull, which is something not every barista can do. It wasn’t quite as neat as a pro barista however, with a few loose coffee grounds hovering around the edge of the basket that should be tucked into the puck after tamping.
Intelligent Dosing Was Shockingly ConsistentThe number one feature on this machine is its intelligent dosing system, and it was jaw-dropping how accurate it was. We measured 9 shots in a row, and found that most of them were within a .2-gram variance, with outliers landing .5 grams away from our ideal 18 gram dose. The accuracy of its dosing system rivaled that of any commercial espresso grinder, making this function truly unique.
Pressure Ramping Was Forgiving (But Could Be Frustrating)Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe pre-infusion pressure ramping on this machine might be more forgiving for novices, but made it hard to dial in the grind with precision. When a coffee puck is saturated at a lower pressure, it allows for the water to create a more even pathway through the espresso puck. While this cuts down on the water channeling through one side of the coffee more than the other, it also speeds up the espresso flow once the full pressure of the machine kicks in. With the slow ramp up of the pressure pump on this machine, espresso shots started nice and easy but would accelerate with erratic flow that was unpredictable and ran slightly faster or slower from shot to shot.
The Filter Basket Had (Small) Design IssuesSerious Eats / Jesse RaubIt might be a small gripe, but we wish the Breville espresso baskets weren’t tapered towards the middle. An espresso basket with straight sides allows water to more evenly extract coffee straight down, while tapered baskets channel water towards the center of the coffee puck, slightly extracting more from the center of the coffee than the edges. There are companies that make after-market straight sided baskets for Breville machines, but because the assisted tamping lever calibrates the intelligent dosing based on bed depth, there’s no guarantee that these systems will work with other baskets.
The Grinder Didn’t Have a Ton of Settings (But That Was Okay!)Our main issue with the Breville Barista Pro was its lack of precision grind settings, and the Barista Express Impress has even fewer. With only 25 grind settings, it was tricky to dial in the espresso perfectly, though we were able to pull great tasting shots of both coffees we used for testing after some fidgeting. While we’d appreciate a little more wiggle room between settings to dial in the perfect shot, most people will still be able to pull a nice tasting shot of espresso without too much trouble.
Water Volume Programming Was Only So-SoBecause the volumetric flow meters in this machine aren’t as precise as their commercial counterparts, espresso shot volume varied drastically from the preset buttons. Even when we reprogrammed the shot volumes, we found that they were too reliant on a consistent flow rate to deliver an accurate volume every time, and manually stopping espresso shots when they reached a desired weight or volume was much more consistent than relying on the machine to do it.
It might seem like a picky point, but the variance of a half an ounce of water in an espresso recipe is the difference between balanced sweetness and a bitter, ashy slurry. Even though the machine measures out your coffee consistently, it’s best to take the espresso volume into your own hands.
Back-to-Back Shots Needed Recovery Time, Though Home Users Won't Likely Notice ThisSerious Eats / Jesse RaubIn our testing, we eventually triggered the thermal switch that’s designed to shut down the grinder if the machine gets too hot. Grinding for espresso causes a lot of friction, which builds heat, and the grinder needs time between shots to be able to cool off so that the wires leading the circuit board literally don’t melt. It’s an easy problem to fix: just let the machine idle for about 10 to 15 minutes so it can cool down. It’s unlikely someone will hit this automatic shutoff limit in daily regular use, however—our testing was aiming to push the limits of what the machine could do, and after around 20 shots in a row, we found it.
We also noticed some temperature instability in the water when we were pulling shots back-to-back. The ideal espresso pulling temperature is 200ºF, and when pulling back-to-back shots, we could hear water boiling at the grouphead, indicating that it had climbed to 212ºF. It’s likely part of the Thermocoil design, which heats small amounts of water at a time, and the temperature did regular itself with the proportional integral derivative (PID) temperature controller if we let the machine idle for about a minute before pulling another shot.
It’s also rare for an espresso machine in this price bracket to have dedicated precision temperature control, so even if the machine needed a little time to recover, it’s still a very impressive feature.
Steaming Milk Was A SnapSerious Eats / Jesse raubAs a single-boiler machine, the Breville Barista Express Impress has to switch to milk steaming mode in order to steam milk, running temperatures up to 266ºF to achieve consistent steam pressure. While most single boiler machines require about a 6-minute heating cycle, the Breville Barista series use a clever system that superheats the water for the steam wand instantly without needing to heat all the water in the boiler.
While the pressure is lower than some home espresso machines, we were still able to produce silky microfoam, and we really appreciated not having to wait for a whole heating cycle after pulling our shot to be able to steam milk.
The VerdictProsThis machine can pull really tasty shots of espresso, and its innovative dosing and tamping system can make espresso accessible for home baristas of all experience levels. It’s a nice all-in-one package that takes just minutes to set up, and you can make yourself a latte without having to order any accessories or set up a separate grinder. It’s a great snapshot of how newer technology can make good espresso at home accessible.
ConsWhile the built-in dosing and tamping system is fantastic, the grinder itself lacks the precision and power of standalone options. We also found that, for a more experienced barista, the pressure ramping system was mildly frustrating and made it difficult to pull precision shots time after time, though the average home espresso machine user probably won’t notice.
Who It’s Best ForThe Breville Barista Express Impress is a really great option for someone who’s curious about home espresso and doesn’t want to have to build a set up piece by piece. It's an excellent machine that automates some of the persnickety steps of pulling a shot and is ideal for someone who wants to streamline making espresso but doesn't want something fully automated.
Pro TipsSerious Eats / Jesse Raub Let it preheat for at least 20 minutes: While the boiler will heat the water in just a few minutes, the portafilter itself needs time to heat up as well. A cold portafilter will absorb temperature from the brewing water, causing the shot to extract at lower temperature delivering a more sour, tepid espresso. * Weigh your coffee: While the machine delivers the dose for you, it’s good to double check how much coffee it’s actually delivering with a scale. The amount of coffee you put into the machine is important for knowing how much espresso you want to come out of it. In our testing, the intelligent dosing system delivered 18 grams on average, but that could change based on the density of the coffee you choose. * Measure your espresso: The best tasting espresso shots have a mass around two times greater than the weight of the coffee used, i.e. an 18 gram dose of coffee tastes best when the espresso shot weighs around 36 grams. Since the preset volumes weren’t as accurate as we’d like, we suggest using either a scale to weigh the espresso as it drops, or at least measure the volume. A 36 gram espresso shot is around 1.5 ounces in liquid volume, or around two ounces including the crema. * Time your shots: A great tasting shot of espresso requires the right grind size to be dialed in, and the best way to measure grind size is with a timer. With this machine, the best tasting shots landed in the 27- to 30-second range, in line with the manual’s suggestions, and running a timer every time you make an espresso is a great way to ensure the grind size is always dialed in. * Purge the grinder: When adjusting the grind, it’s good to purge a small amount of coffee to clear any old grounds from the dosing chute and make way for the new grind setting. The instruction manual has a guide for how to run the grinder manually without a full dose specifically for this function. * Let it steam:* Even though it only takes a few seconds to get the steam wand up to full pressure, it’s best to let the machine do this into the air before immersing the wand in milk. After the wand his full pressure, turn it off, insert the milk pitcher, and flip it back on again. This way, you can avoid adding excess moisture from the lower temperature steam to your milk, which helps ensure better texture in your foam.
FAQsWhat are the new features of the Breville Barista Express Impress espresso machine?This machine features an assisted tamping lever that will tamp the coffee for you, as well as an intelligent dosing system that automatically adjusts the amount of coffee the grinder dispenses to achieve the correct amount every time.
Which is better, Breville Barista Pro or Breville Barista Express Impress?The Breville Barista Express Impress features some really exciting new features, like an intelligent dosing system that’s a big upgrade from the Barista Pro. It doesn’t have a display screen or built-in timer, like the Barista Pro, so there are some trade offs. In our testing, we recommend the Barista Express Impress over the Barista Pro, as the intelligent dosing system is more consistent than the adjustable dose on the Barista Pro.
Can you grind coffee for a French press or drip brewer with the Breville Barista Express Impress?The grinders that are built into the Breville Barista Express are not calibrated for grinds that are coarser than espresso, and the machine is only set up to grind coffee directly into a portafilter. It is not able to grind coffee for drip or French press.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe idea of packing food to-go is not new, nor is it unique to the Western world. There are metal tiffins in India, biàndāng in China, and bento boxes from Japan, which we are focusing on in this review.
Today, the term bento describes a packed lunch gathered up in a box with little compartments for each food item; traditionally, rice was the main food placed inside, along with some vegetables and perhaps meat or fish. The bento experience encompasses the box, the food, the act of packing the food in the box, and the delight of eating from one.
While its exact origins are murky, Sonoko Sakai, author of Japanese Home Cooking, postulates the bento box began as a way to bring food out and about. “I've read different things, like when the royal families went to go see the cherry blossoms, the servants would make a beautiful bento box,” she says. “So they would sit under the tree and lay out the blanket and watch the flowers bloom while they ate.” There was also the practical value of a portable box (and in older times, food wrapped in plant leaves) that contained the day's lunch. “When people went into the field, they had a bento, or if you're traveling you always carried a bento, and I think that it’s just a very ancient dish,” Sakai says.
Today, bento has expanded to include all kinds of foods and boxes; a bento can contain onigiri as readily as an egg salad sandwich, and a traditional lacquered-looking box is no more common than one that’s bright pink and decorated with anime characters.
Choosing a bento box is personal, with some people valuing certain aspects over others: some might want a single box with few compartments, others might want one that has a multitude of compartments for keeping food separate; some might want a two-tiered box with a band to hold them together, others might prefer a single box with a silicone-lined rim for ultimate leak-prevention. Today, there are many offerings on the market, and while we tested 11 options and came away with some favorites, in the end, it’s up to you what you want in a bento box.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Best, Most Spacious Bento Box: Bentgo Stainless Say your idea of a perfect lunch is a big sandwich, loaded salad, or heaping donburi (really, any manner of hearty lunch fare). Well, the Bentgo Stainless has you covered with a large interior, optional divider, and an impressive leakproof seal.
The Best Leakproof Bento Box: Monbento Large Bento BoxIf you like to pack anything even slightly liquidy (fruit salad, for example), this box is the bento to buy. It’s leakproof (even when shaken vigorously) and compact, yet still quite spacious.
The Best Smaller Bento Box: Bento Bite Dual from TAKENAKAThis cute little bento box features two surprisingly spacious compartments with an optional divider, and a fork (because who doesn’t forget to pack a utensil?). It’s compact and easily fits into a tote-style purse or backpack.
The Best Bento Box for Kids: Pottery Barn All-in-One Bento BoxThis no-frills bento box comes in a variety of colors and is easy to open and close (which is a nice feature for little kids). It’s also made of plastic, so it won’t dent or ding up, and the interior compartments keep foods separate, while also still being rooomy enough to fit all kinds of snacks.
The Best Traditional-Style Bento Box: Suzuran Shokado Bento BoxIf you’d like to serve your friends or family a traditional (or untraditional, up to you) bento, this bento box is a gorgeous option. While it’s made of plastic, it has the look and feel of a traditional lacquered wooden box, and is easy to clean.
The TestsSerious Eats / Grace Kelly Packed Lunch Test: We packed each bento box with a simple lunch consisting of a small mandarin orange, a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, 1/4 cup of walnuts, three Sidgal Norwegian crispbreads, and two small peeled carrots, cut in half. We examined how (and if) everything fit, and if the box was easy to fill, put together, and close. * Leak Test: We filled each lunchbox with 1-cup of water and shook it to see if it leaked. * Stain and Odor Test: We smeared the interior of each bento box with tomato sauce, closed the lid, and let it sit for four hours. Then, we cleaned each box by hand and noted if the box stained or had any lingering odors. * Durability Tests: We opened and closed each bento box 10 times. Throughout testing, we also noted if the boxes were easy to assemble and take apart, and because of our own clumsiness, we dropped them a few times. * Microwave Test: We heated microwave-safe boxes in the microwave for 1-minute at the 700-watt setting. * Cleaning Tests: We hand washed each bento box after use, noting if it was easy to clean and if any food stains or odors remained. * Usability Tests:* Throughout our testing, we examined and noted how easy it was to pack, assemble, unpack, and clean each bento box.
What We Learned Overall Size and Compartment-Style Were ImportantSerious Eats / Grace KellySince what people pack for lunch varies greatly, we preferred bento boxes that allowed for a variety of options. The Monbento Large Bento Box, the TAKENAKA Bento Bite Dual, and the Bentgo Stainless all had moveable partitions to build-your-own compartments, which allowed us to pack foods of all shapes and sizes. We found boxes with fixed compartments, like the LunchBots Large Stainless Steel Lunch Box and Bentgo Kids, more limiting; some items didn’t fit, or we had to cut them up to squeeze them in (for example, we had trouble fitting a small sandwich into the Bentgo Kids box, since all of the compartments were quite tiny). We also found we preferred bento boxes that were mid-sized; bigger boxes, like the Bentgo Modern (which, at 9 x 7 x 2.4 inches, was one of the largest we tested), felt less portable. However, if a box was too small and shallow (like the Bentgo Classic, which had two boxes, one of which was only 1.7 inches deep), we had trouble fitting food inside, especially round fruits like mandarin oranges.
A Leak-Proof Box Was a Nice BonusSerious Eats / Grace KellyWhile not a dealbreaker, it was nice when a bento box was entirely leak-proof—no one wants to open their backpack or purse to find spilled liquid. And not all boxes that claimed to be leak-proof were: the Bentgo Kids, TAKENAKA Bento Bite Dual, and UMAMI All-in-1 Bento Box all claimed to seal in liquids, but leaked a little when filled with water and turned and shaken. The most leak-proof boxes were the Monbento Large Bento Box and the Bentgo Stainless; nary a drop of water escaped even when they were vigorously shaken.
Material Wasn’t Super ImportantSerious Eats / Grace KellyWe didn’t find the box material super important, unless you’re dead-set on microwaving your food in the box (in which case, we’d check manufacturer instructions, and most likely avoid metal). In terms of staining and odor retention, we didn’t find too much of a difference between metal and plastic boxes; some metal boxes, like the LunchBots Large Cinco Stainless Steel Lunch Container, did retain a slight tomato sauce smell, as did a few plastic ones, like the Bentgo Kids and Bentgo Classic boxes.
In the End, the Perfect Bento Box is a Highly Personal Choice Serious Eats / Grace KellyWhile we preferred boxes with larger, adjustable compartments, and ones that were medium-sized and deep, in the end, it all depends on your lunching habits and what you want to prioritize.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Good Bento BoxSerious Eats / Grace KellyOur favorite bento-style boxes had large, adjustable compartments and were medium-sized and deep enough to fit non-square foods, like mandarins or clementines. We also liked boxes that were leak-proof, portable, and easy to clean.
The Best, Most Spacious Bento Box: Bentgo Stainless What we liked: This is a compact yet roomy bento box that features a moveable partition, should you like to keep your peas separate from your carrots, so to speak. It comfortably fits a variety of foods of all shapes and sizes without being bulky. It was also very easy to clean, and didn’t retain any stains or odors. Plus, it’s leak-proof due to the silicone-lined lid and silicone airlock tab.
What we didn’t like: It’s unclear if this box is microwave-safe (another offering from Bentgo that is also made of stainless steel is, surprisingly, microwave-safe, but we couldn’t find an answer for this model). The lid can also be a little hard to remove, since the silicone tab on top, when pushed in, creates a seal.
Price at time of publish: $30.
Key Specs * Materials: Stainless steel, silicone * Dimensions: 8 x 6 x 2 inches * Capacity: 5 cups * Accessories: Removable partition * Compartments: Up to 2 * Microwave-safe: N/A (we couldn’t find an answer to this, so we’d recommend avoiding microwaving it) * Care: Dishwasher-safe (top rack only), though the brand recommends hand washing the lid to increase longevity of the silicone seal
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Best Leakproof Bento Box: Monbento Large Bento BoxWhat we liked: This two-tiered box was roomy (we were able to comfortably fit all of the food items—with room to spare—in our packed lunch test), but still overall compact enough to toss into a tote bag or backpack. It was also incredibly leak-proof.
What we didn’t like: It’s a bit pricier than some other boxes, and the leak-proof seal is so tight, we had trouble removing the lids.
Price at time of publish: $40.
Key Specs: * Materials: Polypropylene plastic, silicone * Dimensions: 5.5 x 5.5 x 5.5 inches * Capacity: 7 cups * Accessories: Extra band, small removable compartment * Compartments: Up to 3 * Microwave-safe: Yes * Care: Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Best Smaller Bento Box: Bento Bite Dual from TAKENAKAWhat we liked: This was a charming two-tiered bento box that included moveable dividers and a fork. We liked its compact, small size (though it was still quite deep, which was nice) and how easy it was to fill, assemble, and take apart.
What we didn’t like: While it claims to be leak-proof, we did have some water dribble out during our leak test. It’s also a bit pricey.
Price at time of publish: $41.
Key Specs * Materials: Polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene * Dimensions: 6.8 x 4.3 x 4.2 inches * Capacity: 4.89 cups * Accessories: Band, plastic fork * Compartments: Up to 3 * Microwave-safe: Yes * Care: Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Best Bento Box for Kids: Pottery Barn All-in-One Bento BoxWhat we liked: This was a simple box that, though it features fixed compartments, was spacious. It was also easy to open and close and featured an attached lid, which could be good for little kids (or adults) who are prone to losing things. Plus, it comes in a variety of fun colors and is budget-friendly.
What we didn’t like: The fixed compartments could make packing different foods tricky, but overall we didn’t have a problem with it. The clasp, which is made of plastic, seems like it could break after extended use, and this bento box is not microwave-safe.
Price at time of publish: $15.
Key Specs Materials: Plastic * Dimensions: 8 x 7 x 2.5 inches * Capacity: 5.5 cups * Accessories: None * Compartments: 5 * Microwave-safe: No * Care:* Dishwasher-safe (top rack only)
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Best Traditional-Style Bento Box: Suzuran Shokado Bento BoxWhat we liked: This beautiful, decorated box is akin to a more traditional bento-style box. It features a pretty illustration on the lid, and multiple-sized compartments for presenting a meal in style. And unlike more traditional bento boxes, it’s made of plastic; you don’t have to worry about caring for a wooden object.
What we didn’t like: The lid doesn’t clasp onto the box, and it’s not leak-proof, meaning this is more of a bento box you’d serve at home rather than take on-the-go. It’s also not dishwasher- or microwave-safe.
Price at time of publish: $20.
Key Specs Materials: Plastic * Dimensions: 3 × 6.9 × 1.8 inches * Capacity: N/A * Accessories: N/A * Compartments: 5 * Microwave-safe: No * Care:* Hand-wash only
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe Competition* LunchBots Large Cinco Stainless Steel Lunch Container: Even though it’s made of stainless steel, this bento box retained some odor from the tomato sauce. We also found the fixed compartments a bit restrictive, and noticed that the partitions, while attached, had gaps in the corners, so if you have something runny in one compartment, it could leak into the others. * UMAMI All-in-1 Bento Box: This bento box includes wooden utensils that, though pretty, didn’t seem entirely functional (especially the knife). And while it’s claimed to be leakproof, it did leak during our tests. The boxes were also a bit shallow, and we struggled to snap the lid on when we placed a small mandarin orange inside. * Bentgo Modern: If you want a pretty bento box, this is it. While we liked the look of it, (and the fact that you can remove the interior box to microwave your food) it was pretty bulky, weighing in at 1 pound 10 ounces, making it the heaviest bento box in our lineup. It’s also leak-resistant, but not entirely leakproof. * Bentgo Classic: We liked the look and compact size of this bento box, but found the 1.7-inch deep section a bit shallow for our needs. * Bentgo Kids: This is a sturdy kids’ lunch box with a rubbery edge, making it resilient to drops. We found the small compartments a bit restrictive in terms of what you can pack, but we do think little kids would like the presentation. And while it claimed to be leak-proof, we did see a few drops of water escape near the hinges. * Shikiri Modern Plus Bento Box: This box had a very utilitarian vibe; it wasn’t the most eye-catching of the lineup. It uses side clasps to lock the lid on, and it claimed to be semi-leak-proof except when tipped and turned, which seemed limiting. It was quite compact (though you could remove the inner compartments), and we had some issues closing it with a mandarin orange inside. The box (minus the lid) is also only microwave-safe for up to two minutes at 700 watts.
FAQsWhat traditionally goes into a bento box?Traditionally, bento boxes were filled with rice and some little sides. “It was all about the rice and the little compartments,” Sakai explains. “The rice could be in an onigiri wrapped in a bamboo leaf, and then you have the side dishes, what we call okazu. Okazu are little nibbles that will enhance the rice, but it's always been centered around rice. So when you talk about Japanese bento, the first thing that comes to mind is rice, and that's the traditional main.”
Can you put a bento box in the freezer?Some of the bento boxes we tested are freezer-safe, so if you have a frozen mochi with ice cream in it, you can place the whole box in the freezer.
Does a bento box keep food warm?No, but you can buy insulated bags made specifically for bento boxes; these will help keep your food warm. Alternatively, some bento boxes we reviewed are microwave-safe, so you can reheat your food.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianArmenians are extremely serious about grilled meats. As long as outside temperatures are above freezing and there’s a gathering of more than a handful of them happening, kebabs are pretty much guaranteed to be on the menu. (Many Armenians refer to their barbecue collectively as khorovats—or “grilled”—but in my family we just call them kebabs.)
Case in point: Growing up, each household in my extended family had "their particular holiday feast" at which all of the other members were guests; my parents’ was Easter. Now Easter can come early or late, depending upon the mysteries of the liturgical calendar; ditto for the warmer days of Spring, thanks to the mysteries of mother nature. But it mattered not which season Easter happened to fall in from year to year—snowy or sunny, frigid or fair—that grill was getting set up. (The extended family also had a communal, 5-foot long party-sized grill, one that got shuttled around from household to household depending upon who was doing the hosting.)
My dad manning the Easter grill.Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianIn my Armenian family, as in many others, kebabs come in two flavors, made and served side-by-side most of the time: shish kebabs—marinated hunks of beef or lamb on skewers (the word “shish” is the English rendering of the Turkish word şiş, which means sword or skewer)—and losh kebabs, seasoned ground meat patties, grilled without skewers. I talk about and have a recipe for losh kebabs here; for the rest of this post, I’ll focus on shish kebab.
Selecting the MeatWhile shish kebab can be made from either lamb or beef, in my family it was always made from leg of lamb. The day before Easter, my father would cover our dining room table with an old tablecloth and a butcher-block cutting board (or two, if one of us kids had volunteered to assist) and break down whole, boneless legs of lamb into skewerable pieces about an inch square each. The process was a time-consuming one, and not simply because of the large quantity of meat involved (our average Easter guest list was about 40 people, which called for four to five legs of lamb). Shish kebab is cooked hot and fast, so the meat needs to be tender before it hits the grill, which meant all bits of sinew and silverskin have to be removed, along with any large pieces of external fat. Since lamb legs are a jumbled assembly of variously-shaped muscles, the process of taking them apart and cleaning them is a somewhat painstaking affair.
While many Armenians prefer lamb for its flavor, beef shish kebab, which can be made from already-clean and easily-butchered flap meat (a.k.a. “steak tips”), is definitely the faster option. The good news is that neither is too arduous to butcher unless you are cooking for 40, and both are delicious.
Making the MarinadeOnce my father had cleaned and cut up the meat—the too-small-to-skewer bits having been minced by hand and added to the losh kebab mixture—he’d toss it with a marinade of chopped onions, tomato paste, red wine, salt, and pepper, and set it in the fridge overnight. The flavor of shish kebab is mainly meat plus fire, so he used a simple marinade, intended mainly to season the meat throughout and add sugars to promote caramelization on the grill. And while four hours is ample time to marinate small cubes of meat through and through, doing the butchering and prep the day before spreads out the workload a little. The marinade I give below is a clone of his, except I like to process the onions on a box grater rather than with a knife, since it pulls more of their flavorful juices into it.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianAssembling the SkewersMy dad has a large collection of long metal skewers with wooden handles, which work great when you have an oversized grill with a rimless grate. For smaller grills, you’ll either want to use shorter 12-inch metal skewers (with metal handles) or 10-inch wooden ones.
He packs the skewers closely, but not tightly. The idea is to expose the cubes of meat on four sides to the fire evenly, while protecting their insides from the heat, so that they don’t overcook. You want to slide them snugly together on the skewer, but without packing them so tightly that they are compressed, which hides their exteriors from the fire.
Grilling the Shish KebabsI mentioned that my extended family had a party-sized grill to make kebabs; it is a five-foot by two-foot steel grill on four legs, with an identically-sized stainless-steel grate that can be lowered or raised as needed. Not only does this grill provide the real estate necessary to cook for large numbers of people, it also lets you get the meat just inches from the fire to cook it quickly, so it chars thoroughly without also overcooking on the inside.
While you can certainly make a more-than-respectable shish kebab on a gas grill (my dad always uses one when making shish kebab for small gatherings), an intense, concentrated charcoal fire is definitely superior in terms of the flavor and rapid charring it produces. But you don’t need a table-sized grill to pull this off—a standard kettle works just fine, especially if you use a couple of rows of bricks to corral the coals and suspend the skewers directly above them. This is a technique that Sasha Marx uses to recreate Japanese yakitori-style grills, and it works equally well for shish kebabs. I’ll let you read up on the details over on Sasha’s post, but here’s the gist:
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianYou wrap four bricks with foil and then set them in the bottom of the grill in two rows of two, just wide enough to let the skewers straddle them. Once the charcoal is hot and covered with ash, you spread it evenly along the channel between the bricks. You then suspend the skewers over the coals, their exposed ends supported by the rows of bricks. Finally, you let them cook, turning them regularly to even out the cooking on all sides, and moving them around as necessary to avoid flare-ups.
To get the best possible results on a gas grill, you’ll need to preheat it for at least 15 minutes with the lid closed to superheat the grates. Otherwise, the method is identical, minus the slightly longer cooking time (eight to twelve minutes for gas vs. six to nine minutes over charcoal).
The Shish Chef's SecretLike many Armenian families, mine is a pretty traditional one, which means that the grill tends to be the purview of the menfolk, who stand around it, bourbon in hand, arguing over whether the meat is cooked enough (or too much). While this has mostly to do with the men being less skilled in all other forms of cooking, there’s another reason they choose to be this close to the fire—because that’s where shish kebab is at its peak. There’s nothing quite like the joy of a cube of meat seconds off the skewer, sprinkled with salt, wrapped in a shroud of pita bread.
It’s even better when that pita has been sitting on the bottom of a vessel, soaking up the juices shed by the meat. My dad always sets a large pot next to the grill, lined with a few pitas, as a landing place for the cooked kebabs. (He also uses a pita as an “edible oven mitt,” protecting his hand from the searing hot meat as he pushes it off the skewer and into the pot.) The bread is meant to soak up the juices so that the meat doesn’t sit in a pool of it and sog out, but it also creates a treat for the cook and his many advisers to enjoy while the remainder of the skewers cook.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianThe good news is that when you are making shish kebab for a handful of guests and not forty, everyone gets to join in on the fun.
Grate onion on the large holes of a box grater into a large bowl. Add oil, tomato paste, red wine, salt, and pepper, and whisk until evenly combined. Transfer marinade, along with meat, to a 1-gallon zipper-lock bag. Press out air, seal bag, and turn to coat meat in marinade. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianThread meat tightly onto skewers without compressing the individual pieces, leaving no parts of the skewer exposed except for a 2-inch handle at the bottom, and the pointy tip at the top. Line a shallow serving bowl with 1 or 2 pita breads and set aside.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianSet up grill for skewers, making sure to adjust distance between bricks to the length of your skewers. Light one chimney full of charcoal. When all the charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and spread the coals evenly in the channel between the bricks. Alternatively set burners on a gas grill to the highest heat setting, cover, and preheat for 15 minutes. Clean and oil cooking grate.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianPlace skewers on grill (directly over coals if using charcoal, balancing them on top of the bricks, with the handles overhanging the bricks closest to you, and the tips balancing on the farther wall of bricks). Cook (covered if using gas), turning frequently, until meat is lightly charred and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the thickest piece registers between 135°F and 145°F (57 to 60°C), 6 to 9 minutes for charcoal and 8 to 12 minutes for gas; if flare-ups occur, move the skewers around as needed to avoid scorching.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianUsing tongs or a pita as an “edible oven mitt”, slide meat off of skewers into prepared serving bowl, season to taste with salt, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 2 minutes. Serve immediately, passing remaining pita on side, and alongside rice pilaf and grill-roasted onions, peppers, and tomatoes.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianSpecial EquipmentGrill (charcoal or gas), 4 (12-inch) metal skewers or 6 (10-inch) wooden skewers
NotesThis dish is either made with leg of lamb or beef. Flap meat is identical to sirloin steak tips, but in larger pieces. If available, purchase in one piece to cut down yourself. If lamb leg is unavailable, use lamb shoulder instead.
The pita used to line the serving platter soaks up juices from the cooked meat and is meant to serve as a tasty treat for the grill cook or anyone else, wrapped around pieces of meat.
Make-Ahead and StorageShish kebab is best enjoyed immediately. Leftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container and reheated gently, or sliced and served cold in sandwiches.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezEvery kitchen needs a trusty peeler, whether you’re batch-peeling for mashed potatoes or trying to get the perfect shavings of parmesan to top a kale salad. While a paring knife could do the trick, it can be time consuming (and a wee bit dangerous!).
The options for peelers are seemingly endless, so we tested 14 models—including Y-peelers and straight swivel peelers—to find the best ones. We peeled our way through potatoes, lemons, butternut squash, and parmesan cheese to find peelers that performed well while still being easy to use. Y-peelers outperformed swivel peelers at every step when it came to speed, ease of use, and performance.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Best Overall Vegetable Peeler: Kuhn Rikon Original Swiss PeelerOur longtime favorite affordable peeler was a workhorse during our testing, with a design that was simple and effective. It was easy to use, peeled smoothly and quickly, and sported an eye scooper.
Another Fantastic Vegetable Peeler: Kuhn Rikon Piranha Y PeelerThis was one of the fastest of the peelers we tested. It peeled two large Russet potatoes in a little over one minute, and dispatched a large butternut squash in one minute flat— twice as fast as some of our other winning picks. The ergonomic handle felt light and agile while moving around nooks and crannies.
The Best Grippy Vegetable Peeler: KitchenAid Classic Y PeelerFor those who are looking for a substantial handle, the KitchenAid Classic Y Peeler offered a comfortable wide grip, which was especially helpful if you’re tackling something large and unruly (like a butternut squash!).
The Best Fancy Vegetable Peeler: Rösle Stainless Steel Wide Crosswise Swivel PeelerIf you’re looking to splurge on a gift for someone —or for yourself—this option from Rösle is a beautiful, functional peeler. The stainless steel body was easy to clean and had a nice weight to it, for those who enjoy the little details. And if you can’t go without an eye scooper for potatoes, the one on this model was nice and sharp for clean, quick scooping.
The TestsSerious Eats / Amanda Suarez Peel Potatoes Test: To examine the general use of each model and to find out how cleanly and quickly each one peeled a potato, we timed how long it took to peel two large Russet potatoes. We noted how easy the peeler was to grip, how cleanly it peeled the potato, and if there was any resistance. We also took note of how easy it was to clean each peeler. * Peel Lemon Rind Test: We used each peeler to remove strips of lemon peel from one lemon, trying not to catch pith. We observed and noted how much pith was captured versus peel. * Peel Butternut Squash Test (Winners-Only): Pitting our leading peelers against a hardy, tougher skin, we peeled one butternut squash per peeler, noting how cleanly the peeler cut through the skin and how sturdy the blade was. * Shave Parmesan Cheese Test (Winners-Only):* To see how each peeler could peel delicate shavings of parmesan cheese, we used our favorites to remove strips of parmesan, noting how cleanly and easily each peeler was able to slice through the cheese.
What We LearnedY-peelers Outperformed Straight Swivel PeelersSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezOn average, the Y-peelers we tested peeled potatoes nearly twice as quickly as the straight swivel competition. Y-peelers also maneuvered more easily around the potatoes’ nooks and crannies, and had less instances of skin getting stuck inside the blade. Our winning picks, the Kuhn Rikon Original Swiss Peeler and the Kuhn Rikon Piranha Y Peeler, peeled potatoes the cleanest, leaving little to no clean-up needed. We liked the ergonomically designed handle on the Piranha option, which had a slight dip towards the peeler end, giving the hand some extra leverage when moving the blade around a vegetable. The KitchenAid and Rösle all performed well with potatoes, too. While it may take some transitioning to embrace Y-peelers if you’re used to swivel peelers, it’ll be more efficient (and comfortable!) in the end to use Y-peelers in the kitchen. In our tests, swivel peelers were more prone to skidding across the surface of a vegetable and were less agile when it came to getting around the nooks and crannies of potatoes. Additionally, we found that potato skin got trapped more often in swivel peeler blades.
Y-Peelers Excelled At Delicate TasksSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhen it came to lemons, Y-peelers generally performed better at procuring a delicate garnish of lemon rind without catching too much pith. While we were originally skeptical of how the serrated blade on the Kuhn Rikon Piranha Y Peeler would perform with such a delicate task, this model was able to get clean, whole pieces of lemon rind that were nearly translucent, while still holding their shape. Our other picks also peeled lemon rinds well with minimal pith, though it was more difficult to get one whole piece with the Rösle. And when it came to our parmesan test, both Kuhn Rikon offerings pulled dainty curled shavings.
Blade Material and Shape MatteredSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezOverall, blades with a serrated edge tended to get a better bite on whatever they were peeling. In the case of one of our top picks, the Kuhn Rikon Piranha Y Peeler, its serrated edge was particularly helpful during the butternut squash test. It was able to catch onto the thick, tough skin immediately and peel it away smoothly and without much resistance. The Kuhn Rikon Original Swiss Peeler, was also quite sharp, due to its carbon steel blade. This material also meant it will likely stay sharper longer, though carbon steel is known to rust easily. We'd recommend immediately cleaning and drying it after use to keep it in good condition.
While Not Necessary, an Eye Scooper Was Nice to HaveIt’s true that stopping every few seconds to scoop out blemishes on vegetables is tedious. Peelers with built-in eye scoopers helped streamline this process, allowing you to oscillate seamlessly between peeling and scooping. The Rösle and Kuhn Rikon Original Swiss Peeler both sported nice, sharp scoopers attached to the blade side, making quick work of potato eyes.
The Criteria: What to Look for In a Vegetable PeelerSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezA great peeler should easily remove skin from vegetables and fruits, whether it’s thick, rough skin or delicate, soft rinds. It should be able to peel delicately without digging too much into the vegetable or fruit, and have a blade sharp enough to cut into thick skin right away without skidding off the surface. It should also be easy to clean, without too many nooks and crannies where vegetable or fruit skin could get trapped.
The Best Overall Vegetable Peeler: Kuhn Rikon Original Swiss PeelerWhat we liked: The Kuhn Rikon Original Swiss Peeler was one of the more affordable peelers in our lineup, and comes from a trusted brand—what’s not to like? It kept up the pace when it came to potatoes and shaved very delicate lemon peels with minimal pith. You can even buy a set of three for less than $20.
What we didn’t like: Unlike our other picks, it takes a bit more care when it comes to cleaning. Due to the carbon steel blade (which gives it a longer lifespan) you’ll have to clean and wipe it dry immediately after use to keep it in good condition; this also means it isn’t dishwasher-safe.
Price at time of publish: $10.
Key Specs Style: Y-peeler * Material: Plastic, carbon steel * Blade shape: Straight-edge * Weight: 0.4 ounces * Dimensions: 6 x 0.75 x 2.75 inches * Cleaning/Care:* Not dishwasher-safe; hand wash and towel dry only; do not soak
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAnother Fantastic Vegetable Peeler: Kuhn Rikon Piranha Y PeelerWhat we liked: This peeler was fast, easy to use, and surprisingly sturdy for a model so light and thin. Its slim profile also makes it easy to store. Whether it was potatoes or butternut squash, it consistently peeled smoothly and cleanly without skidding across the surfaces.
What we didn’t like: The only downside is that this model doesn’t have an eye scooper, which can be helpful for cleaning vegetables as you go, especially if you’re batch-peeling for a large recipe.
Price at time of publish: $14.
Key Specs Style: Y-peeler * Material: Plastic, stainless steel * Blade shape: Serrated * Weight: 1.1 ounces * Dimensions: 6.25 x 3 x 1 inches * Cleaning/Care:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Best Grippy Vegetable Peeler: KitchenAid Classic Y PeelerWhat we liked: The KitchenAid Classic Y Peeler was very comfortable to hold due to its larger handle that afforded a good grip. This model performed quickly and smoothly in our tests, and took minimal effort to clean. It’s great for everyday peeling and can power through vegetables and fruits without much friction. Bonus: it’s dishwasher-safe.
What we didn’t like: If you’re looking for something that can delicately shave parmesan cheese, this peeler might disappoint. It has a larger-than-average gap in its blade, pulling thicker shavings of cheese.
Price at time of publish: $9.
Key Specs Style: Y-peeler * Material: Plastic, stainless steel * Blade shape: Straight * Weight: 4.2 ounces * Dimensions: 2.95 x 0.98 x 7.48 inches * Cleaning/Care:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Best Fancy Vegetable Peeler: Rösle Stainless Steel Wide Crosswise Swivel PeelerWhat we liked: Using the Rösle was as joyful as it was efficient. The model’s all-stainless steel body, which gave it a nice heft, made peeling potatoes and lemon rinds clean, smooth, and efficient. The hefty body almost helped push our hand straight along whatever we peeled.
What we didn’t like: While it breezed through potatoes and procured smooth shavings of lemon rind, it faced more difficulty when it came to our butternut squash test. Pitted against the thick skin of butternut squash, this peeler saw just a marginally higher amount of skidding. It’s also one of the most expensive models we tested, alongside the Material Kitchen Forever Peeler. And it’s not left-hand friendly.
Price at time of publish: $28.
Key Specs Style: Y-peeler * Material: Stainless steel * Blade shape: Straight * Weight: 4 ounces * Dimensions: 6.7 x 3 x 1 inches * Cleaning/Care:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe Competition* KitchenAid Classic Euro Peeler: This swivel peeler had an average performance. With potatoes, it sometimes skidded during peeling, and due to the straight swivel action, peeled skin would often get trapped in the blade. * OXO Good Grips Pro Swivel Peeler: Another swivel peeler, the OXO Good Grips Pro Swivel Peeler had a comfortable handle and peeled smoothly, but had a difficult time getting around nooks and crannies. That said, if you’re loyal to swivel peelers, this is the model to go for. * OXO Good Grips Prep Y-Peeler: We really enjoyed the wide handle on this model; It was comfortable to use and smoothly peeled vegetables and fruits. It also has an eye scooper. Overall, it performed well but wasn’t as fast as our top picks, and it picked up a lot of pith during the lemon rind test. * OXO Good Grips Y-Peeler: This isn’t too different from the above model, but felt less comfortable in hand despite having a blade that performed quickly and smoothly. When it came to lemons, this model pulled too much pith from the lemon rind. * Misen Peeler: The Misen Peeler had a lovely weight to it and peeled smoothly. However, when it came to lemons, this model got too much pith from the lemon rind. It wasn’t able to perform the more delicate task without tearing the rind to bits instead of peeling one complete piece. * Spring Chef Premium Swivel Vegetable Peeler: We don’t recommend this peeler; it was the slowest model and often got pieces of potato skin stuck in its blade. When it came to lemon rind, this model didn’t peel smoothly compared to our winning picks. * Precision Kitchenware - Ultra Sharp Stainless Steel Dual Julienne & Vegetable Peeler: This was the bulkiest model that we tested, with two sides: a peeler blade and a julienne blade. It was unruly to maneuver and didn’t peel as smoothly as other models. In addition, it didn’t peel lemon rinds cleanly. In this instance, the serrated blade created little bits of lemon rind instead of getting one clean piece. * Material Kitchen Forever Peeler: While undeniably beautiful, the Material Kitchen Forever Peeler was also one of the most expensive models. It was also awkward to grip with smaller hands due to the design of its body and, while it feels quite fancy, it didn’t perform as well as our winning picks. * Opinel T-DUO: This was the other model with dual blades, offering a peeler side and julienne side. While it was comfortable to handle and easy on the eyes with its warm wooden handle, it didn’t perform as quickly as the winning picks. However, it still peeled cleanly and smoothly despite being a bit slower. The julienne side also worked well in case you’re looking for a peeler that can do multiple tasks.
FAQsWhich kind of vegetable peeler is best?In all of our tests, Y-peelers performed better on average compared to swivel peelers. Y-peelers moved cleanly, maneuvered well around nooks and crannies, and allowed for smooth, frictionless peeling action.
What are the different styles of vegetable peelers?There are two main styles: Y-peelers, which have a handle leading up to a horizontal blade (they are shaped like the letter Y, hence the name), and straight swivel peelers, which have a blade that’s vertically aligned with the handle itself. Among these, some Y-peelers are double-sided, offering both a peeler side and a julienne side for dual action.
How often should you replace a vegetable peeler?Some experts recommend replacing your peeler every year, while others say you can go a few years before needing a replacement. However, a few of our models, such as the Material Kitchen Forever Peeler, allow for blade replacements, so you don’t have to replace the entire body itself.
Can you sharpen a vegetable peeler?No. Once a vegetable peeler starts to become dull, it’s time to invest in a new one
What is the best way to clean a vegetable peeler?While all but one of our models tested are dishwasher-safe, it’s generally best practice to hand-wash vegetable peelers, especially if you have one that has more nooks and crannies—such as the double-sided peeler and julienne models. And if the blade is made of carbon steel, as it is on the Kuhn Rikon Original Swiss Peeler, it’s best to hand wash it and then dry the blade immediately after, to avoid rusting.
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerThe nakiri is the master of vegetables. In fact, its full name (nakiri bōchō) is often translated as “leaf cutter.” According to knife expert and author of Sharp, Josh Donald, it was one of two main styles that could be found in Japanese kitchens up until the 19th century, when Western trade was re-established with Japan. The second most popular style used by cooks at the time was the deba knife, used for fish.
“Before the Western influence, knives were very much separated by task,” Donald explained. “The nakiri was your vegetable knife, and the notion of going between animal and vegetable with a knife wasn’t part of the Japanese batterie de cuisine.” The Japanese knife lineup has now expanded to include options like the all-purpose santoku, which is often described as the Japanese equivalent to the Western-style chef’s knife. Even so, the philosophy of dedicated knives lives on.
For this review, I tested 13 nakiri knives that had blades between six and seven inches long, with prices ranging from $30 to $309. Nearly all of them were excellent knives, and the margins for the winners were definite, but slim. Keep in mind, choosing a knife is as much about personal preference as it technical function. Although I noted where I found a knife’s handle to be comfortable and its weight balanced, the winners were ultimately decided based on their agility, out-of-the-box sharpness, and usability.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Best Overall Nakiri Knife: Tojiro A-1 NakiriThe Tojiro A-1 Nakiri combined a lightweight body with a razor-sharp edge to create unparalleled agility. It was balanced and comfortable to wield, making vegetable prep tasks a pleasure. Oh, and it’s also affordable.
The Best Mid-Priced Nakiri Knife: GLOBAL 7" Vegetable KnifeThis model was an accessible, easy-to-use nakiri-style knife. It was remarkably sharp and felt sturdy and durable. It offers an easy entry point for newcomers to the style, as well as a solid choice for experienced nakiri users.
The Best High-End Nakiri Knife: Tojiro Atelier NakiriThe Atelier nakiri offered a heavier build than its A-1 counterpart, but was an even match when it came to smooth, easy cuts. It was completely unhindered by rubbery tomato and bell pepper skins and had the robustness to make precise, controlled dice out of tough sweet potatoes.
What Is a Nakiri Knife?Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerWhat defines this vegetable knife is its shape. The nakiri blade is broad and squared-off at the spine, with a rounded tip rather than a pointed one. The blade is also tall, which keeps the wielder’s knuckles from knocking against the cutting board while chopping. The cutting edge is straight so that the entire length makes contact with the board all at once, ensuring the vegetables are cleanly sliced by each draw of the blade (no annoying “accordion” pieces that are still attached to each other by a thin layer). The nakiri is a double-beveled knife, meaning it is sharpened on both sides of the blade edge to make easy, even slices. (Note: Usuba is the other Japanese vegetable knife that's defined by a more traditional single bevel. The nakiri is more useful and easier to learn to use for most folks compared to the usuba, which is why we focused on nakiri for this review.)
The nakiri is best known for cutting vegetables, but it can also be used on boneless proteins as well. While the nakiri bears a resemblance to a Chinese cleaver, its rectangular blade tends to be made of more brittle steel and can chip against hard ingredients like bones. Of course, the abilities of each knife will vary depending on the user’s experience as well as the blade material and thickness. A good rule (suggested by Tojiro’s care instructions) is to avoid cutting anything that you wouldn’t chew with your own teeth, including olive pits, lobster shells, and frozen foods.
The TestsSerious Eats / Ashlee Redger Blade Sharpness Test: I used a professional blade edge tester to measure the sharpness of each knife, straight from the box. The tester worked by measuring the force (in grams) that it took for the knife to sever a calibrated line of plastic wire. The lower the score, the sharper the knife. * Paper Test: Before using the knives on any vegetables, I cut through a piece of printer paper with each model to determine whether the blade resisted or sliced through cleanly. I repeated this test with the winning knives at the end to see how well they maintained their sharpness after the other tests. * Tomato Test: I cut thin tomato slices with each knife to evaluate how easy it was to control the blade, and to see if the blade was sharp enough to cut through resistant tomato skin without mashing it. * Shallot Test: I minced a shallot with each knife to test the nimbleness, maneuverability, and ease with which each knife made small cuts. * Sweet Potato Test: I cut a large sweet potato into 1-inch chunks with each knife to evaluate the strength, durability, and control of each model. I noted when any knife caused cracking in the sweet potato rather than slicing through it. * Bell Pepper Test (Winners-Only): With the winning knives, I stemmed, cored, and sliced three bell peppers each. I noted if the knife was easy to hold and maneuver during the more complicated task, and if the edge was sharp enough to slice cleanly through the rubbery skins of the peppers. * Cleaning Test*: Immediately after each test, I hand-washed and dried the knives and noted if they displayed any marks, staining, or rusting after use.
What We LearnedBlade Material Was Important to Know, But Not a Deciding FactorSerious Eats / Ashlee RedgerJapanese-style knives tend to be forged with steel that is high in carbon, as opposed to lower-carbon stainless steel. Stainless steel must have at least 11% chromium, which makes knife blades (as well as other cookware and appliances) less susceptible to moisture and acidity, and therefore less likely to rust. It also makes the metal softer, which means that low-carbon stainless steel knives tend to be relatively forgiving and easy to care for, but dull quickly as the edge wears down and rolls with regular use.
High-carbon knives (those with around 0.6% carbon content or higher) can also be made with stainless steel levels of chromium, but the effects are offset as the carbon increases. These blades are more rigid and not only get sharper initially, but also retain their edges longer. The trade-off is that the edges of carbon steel knives are more brittle and can chip or break when faced with hard ingredients like a tough winter squash. They also must be cared for intentionally. The best practice is to hand wash and dry them immediately after each use to prevent rusting or staining (which is a recommended habit for all knives, regardless of their blade material).
The models considered for this review had varying levels of chromium and carbon steel cores as well as claddings, but no specific blend stood out above the rest. The JIKKO Mille-Feuille Nakiri Knife’s VG-10 steel did not feel different to use than the Masamoto Sohonten White #2 Kasumi Kuro-Nakiri’s white carbon steel. The Tojiro A-1 Nakiri and the MAC Knife Japanese Series 6 1/2" Vegetable Cleaver both acquired similar superficial marks along the matte strip on their blades during the sweet potato test, despite being made of different high-carbon alloys. While it’s important to know the general makeup of your knife so you know its abilities and how to care for it, consider it a guidepost rather than a dealbreaker.
Blade Thickness and Sharpness MatteredSerious Eats / Ashlee RedgerBlade material did not make a significant impact on performance, but two other things did: blade thickness and sharpness. The sweet spot was for the spine to be one to two millimeters wide at its thickest point, and the sharper the edge was, the more control it provided. Thicker blades, like that of the Masamoto Sohonten White #2 Kasumi Kuro-Nakiri, were bulky when cutting. Although this knife was utility-razor sharp out-of-the-box, its four millimeter-thick blade made it difficult to dice shallots, since it cut wide initial slices that pushed the shallot’s layers apart. The Masamoto was also the tallest of the models at two-and-a-quarter inches, which made it difficult for me to see what was going on beneath and behind the blade as I chopped. Although I thought its weight and heft would make halving large, raw sweet potatoes a cinch, its size worked against it. As the Masamoto cut into the sweet potato, the thickest part of the blade was like a wedge being forced in, causing the potato to crack and splinter open at the bottom instead of being sliced cleanly through.
See this splintering? That wasn't ideal.Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerEven knives that had two millimeter spines caused cracking in the sweet potato if they weren’t sharp enough. The Togiharu Hammered Texture Damascus Nakiri averaged at a 145 sharpness rating (which is quite sharp, akin to a utility razor blade), but it still caused audible tearing in the sweet potato test. Comparatively, the high-end winning Tojiro Atelier Nakiri (which was also two millimeters thick) scored 111.7 on the sharpness scale and sliced cleanly through each task.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe overall winner, the Tojiro A-1 Nakiri, had the thinnest blade at 1.5 millimeters. I started this review believing that heftier, thicker knives would have the advantage because the weight of their blades would drive them through whatever was beneath them, but the Tojiro A-1 demonstrated from its first task that a nakiri that is nimble and sharp is more versatile than one that is heavy and sturdy.
Nakiri Knives Don’t Rock, They ChopSerious Eats / Ashlee RedgerAs opposed to a Western-style chef’s knife with its rounded belly and pointed tip, the nakiri does not lend itself to a rocking slice motion (where the heel of the blade is rocked up and down while the tip of the blade pivots on the cutting board). Instead, it’s better suited for push-chopping, which is accomplished by holding the blade level with the cutting board as the nakiri slides vertically into the ingredients. This allows the entire flat edge to make contact with the cutting board all at once, utilizing the full length with each slice.
Most of the models I tested demonstrated this well, like the traditionally shaped Tojiro Atelier Nakiri that easily cut bell peppers into perfect slices, without leaving any pieces hanging onto one another. One knife stuck out from the rest (in a bad way), though: the Made In Nakiri Knife. Its edge was particularly rounded, which prevented it from fully slicing; I had to rock the blade to catch ingredients that were on either side of the midpoint. One of the primary reasons for push cutting—and therefore why the nakiri’s blade is designed to be used without rocking—is to prevent the blade from twisting or tweaking against the cutting board, which could potentially damage its edge. In this sense, the Made In Nakiri felt more like a chef’s knife impersonating a nakiri, rather than a true example of the style itself.
Smooth, Symmetrical Handles Were More ComfortableSerious Eats / Ashlee RedgerWhat makes a knife feel comfortable and easy to hold will vary from person to person. That said, a few things go into the general comfort of a handle: shape, material texture, length, and the weight balance with the blade. I preferred balanced models where most of the weight was in the handle (rather than the blade), like the MAC Knife Japanese Series 6 1/2" Vegetable Cleaver. I did not have a strong opinion on the length or thickness, and I enjoyed handles with a variety of end-styles. However, there was one knife handle that I particularly didn’t like: the asymmetrical D-shaped handle of the Shun Classic 6.5" Nakiri Knife felt downright awkward to hold, which made it feel less secure in my hand. And, although it did not affect its performance, I found the dimpled texture of the GLOBAL 7" Vegetable Knife to be a little distracting. In the end, though, handle-style is a personal choice, since people have different sized hands, and hence prefer different things.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Nakiri KnifeSerious Eats / Ashlee Redger / Grace KellyA good nakiri knife should have a straight cutting edge to facilitate push-chopping. Most nakiris are made from high-carbon alloys, but the exact makeup is not as important as keeping the knife clean, dry, and sharpened. Comfort depends on personal preference, and I favored handles that were smooth and even on both sides. I also preferred the nimbleness of a lightweight knife, but weightier ones can be just as maneuverable as long as they are kept super sharp.
The Best Overall Nakiri Knife: Tojiro A-1 NakiriWhat we liked: This model demonstrated just how special a nakiri knife can be. Its thin blade and beyond-sharp edge produced precise, controlled cuts. It was lightweight and nimble but never hitched or felt flimsy, even when tackling whole raw sweet potatoes.
What we didn’t like: Like the MAC knife, the matte strip on this blade acquired some dark marks during the sweet potato test. While the marks marred the surface, they did not affect the performance or overall durability of the knife.
Price at time of publish: $36.
Key Specs Weight: 115 grams * Handle material: Pakkawood (a wood and plastic resin composite) * Blade material: VG-10 stainless steel core with 13-chrome stainless steel cladding * Blade length: 6.4 inches * Blade height: 1.75 inches * Spine thickness at widest point: 1.5 millimeters * Total knife length: 11.13 inches * Out-of-the-box sharpness average:* 91.7 (utility razor blade-sharp)
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerThe Best Mid-Priced Nakiri Knife: GLOBAL 7" Vegetable KnifeWhat we liked: The GLOBAL knife was the sharpest of the lineup in the initial sharpness test, and this showed during the testing. It was middle-of-the-road in terms of weight, making it a good choice for prep tasks big and small. It was also easy to clean and made for durability.
What we didn’t like: The bolsterless, dimpled steel handle was less comfortable to hold (and less visually attractive) than wood or plastic handles.
Price at time of publish: $115.
Key Specs Weight: 194 grams * Handle & blade material: CROMOVA 18 stainless steel (a blend of chromium, molybdenum and vanadium that is exclusive to GLOBAL) * Blade length: 7 inches * Blade height: 2 inches * Spine thickness at widest point: 2 millimeters * Total knife length: 12 inches * Out-of-the-box sharpness average:* 86.7 (utility razor blade-sharp)
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerThe Best High-End Nakiri Knife: Tojiro Atelier NakiriWhat we liked: This nakiri knife was just as agile and sharp as the Tojiro A-1, but with a slightly thicker spine and weightier balance. It has a striking layered look to the blade, and it sliced through sweet potatoes, tomatoes, and bell peppers with ease.
What we didn’t like: This was the priciest knife by far, but it’s a worthy investment for someone who wants a heavier knife that makes a statement (in both appearance and performance).
Price at time of publish: $309.
Key Specs Weight: 206 grams * Handle material: Reinforced laminated wood material * Blade material: Low- and high-carbon stainless steels with a VG-10 stainless steel core * Blade length: 6.5 inches * Blade height: 1.88 inches * Spine thickness at widest point: 2 millimeters * Total knife length: 11.75 inches * Out-of-the-box sharpness average:* 111.7 (utility razor blade-sharp)
Serious Eats / Ashlee RedgerThe Competition* MAC Knife Japanese Series 6 1/2" Vegetable Cleaver: This knife was the most similar to the overall winner, the Tojiro A-1 Nakiri. It’s lightweight and comfortable to hold, but it acquired many marks on the blade and faced a lot of resistance in the cutting tests. * Made In Nakiri Knife: This knife was tastefully branded and had a comfortable handle, but its rounded belly made it feel more like a Western chef’s knife mash-up than a true nakiri. It was also one of the least sharp knives out of the box and struggled to cut cleanly through a sweet potato without cracking it. * Zwilling Gourmet 6.5" Nakiri Knife: This knife performed quite well overall and was a close runner-up to our favorites, but it was the least-sharp knife right out of the box with a score of 273. There was more resistance during the cutting tests, which made it feel less smooth and controlled. * Shun Classic 6.5" Nakiri Knife: Much like the Zwilling, the Shun nakiri was a high-quality knife that fell behind in the tests where our winners excelled. The weighty D-shaped handle was less comfortable to hold and the blade—although it was sharp—wedged and splintered the sweet potato rather than cutting cleanly through. * JIKKO Mille-Feuille Nakiri Knife: While I had very few complaints about this beautiful knife, it did not stand out from the other models. It was comfortable to hold and chop with, but caused cracking in the sweet potato test during larger cuts. * Kai Wasabi 6.5" Nakiri Knife: The Kai nakiri faced resistance in all four cutting tests and had a hard time biting into the paper, tomato skin, and shallot peel. * Togiharu Hammered Texture Damascus Nakiri: This knife was nearly identical to the JIKKO nakiri. It was moderately weighted and pleasantly shaped, but hitched on the tomato skins and tore the sweet potatoes. * Masamoto Sohonten White #2 Kasumi Kuro-Nakiri: Without a doubt, this knife was the most cleaver-like of the bunch. Its blade was the tallest and it had a 4-millimeter spine (twice as thick as most other models). The heft of the Masamoto nakiri meant it wedged into the vegetables and made exact cuts difficult. It would be better suited for tackling large tasks, like breaking down melons and rough chopping mountains of mirepoix, rather than weekday use. * WÜSTHOF Classic 7" Hollow Edge Nakiri Knife: This was the only blade that had indentations along its length, which helped prevent slices of tomato and pieces of shallot from sticking to the knife. It faced a lot of resistance and caused tearing during the sweet potato test, though. * Mercer Culinary Genesis 7" Nakiri Vegetable Knife: Using the Mercer nakiri felt like chopping with an oft-used but rarely-sharpened chef’s knife. With a 3-millimeter-thick spine and over a half-pound weight, this knife lacked nimbleness and had difficulty making fine cuts.
FAQsWhat is a nakiri knife good for?Nakiri-style knives have traditionally been used to cut vegetables of all kinds. While the rectangular blade can sometimes be confused for that of a cleaver, a nakiri knife is thinner and lighter. They are better for items like peppers, cabbage, potatoes, onions, and fruits. Tough ingredients, like dense winter squash and animal bones, can chip the rigid steel blade of the nakiri and should be avoided.
Which size nakiri knife is best?Nakiris usually range from five to seven inches long, and the best size depends on the user’s preference. We found that knives around six-and-a-half inches long were a good middle ground: versatile enough to chop large sweet potatoes as well as mince shallots.
How do you sharpen a nakiri knife? Sharpening can vary depending on personal preference and the individual knife, but we recommend using a whetstone for at-home sharpening. Knife expert Josh Donald suggests starting on a medium grit stone that’s in the 800 and 1200 grit range, then finishing on a stone that is between 3000 and 4000 for stainless steel knives or 4000 to 8000 for carbon steel knives. In between sharpenings, a ceramic honing rod is a good option to maintain the knife’s edge.
Can I use a nakiri knife for meat?Yes! Nakiri knives tend to be very sharp and can cut easily through proteins as well as vegetables. Just avoid using your nakiri on or near bones and frozen meat, as the solid surface could bend or chip the blade.
How do you use a nakiri knife?The straight, flat edge of the nakiri knife is designed for vertical chopping rather than rocking. With a curved-edge chef’s knife, it’s practical to keep the tip of the knife down close to the cutting board while you “rock” the heel up and down, cutting with the belly of the knife. A nakiri knife is intended to be pushed evenly down into the food so that the entire edge makes contact with the cutting board at the same time—then lifted up completely between slices.
What is the difference between a nakiri knife and a santoku knife? The nakiri and santoku are both Japanese-style knives that are made with hard steel and feature relatively straight bottom edges, making them good for chopping. The santoku is an all-purpose knife that has a sheep’s foot shape (meaning the spine of the knife curves down to form a pointed tip) and can be used to prepare meat, fish, and vegetables. The nakiri has a squared-off spine and a rounded tip. While the nakiri can be used on boneless cuts of meat and fish, its broad rectangular blade is particularly suited for slicing and dicing vegetables.
What is the difference between a nakiri knife and a usuba knife? The nakiri bōchō is double-beveled (sharpened symmetrically on both sides of the knife’s edges), while theusuba bōchōis single-beveled (sharpened only on one side of the edge). The usuba knife is even more specialized for vegetable preparation than the nakiri, and it’s often used for raw garnishes and techniques like rotary peeling thin sheets of daikon radishes.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSardinia is a craggy island located just off the knee of Italy’s boot. And, as an island, seafood holds sway, but retreat inland and you’ll find a rich, farm-centered cuisine made up of hard durum wheat, mutton, sheeps’ milk cheese, and wiry-haired porco sardo, a native breed of pig.
Malloreddus alla campidanese―pasta tossed in a rich ragù of tomato, fatty Sardinian pork sausage, and a native sherry-like wine called vernaccia di Oristano―is a taste of this inland cuisine (Campidanese refers to the style of the sauce, and is named after a plain on the island). While every family has their own iteration, the dish generally consists of little ridged pasta nuggets―the malloreddus―that are made from finely-ground semolina flour. Many recipes and restaurants refer to this pasta as Sardinian gnocchi (“gnochetti sardi”), though if you are expecting pillowy, light potato gnocchi, you are in for a surprise; instead, this style of pasta is chewy and toothsome. The ragù that the gnocchi are served in is imbued with saffron, which some postulate arrived on Sardinian shores eons ago, during trade with the Pheonicians; though the saffron crocus is still grown by Sardinian farmers today.
The dish is finished with lashings of fudgy-textured, salty-sweet Pecorino Sardo, which Letitia Clark, author of the Sardinian cookbook Bitter Honey, explained is very different from the mass-produced Pecorino Romano often found in supermarkets in the US (which is often crumbly, dry, and decidedly not fudgy in texture).
When developing this recipe, I wanted to be cognizant of this dish’s terroir, but I also wanted to make it accessible, since most of us won’t be able to get fresh Sardinian pork sausage, and since it can be difficult to find Sardinian wine, Pecorino Sardo, or even Clark’s preferred Sardinian brand of whole canned tomatoes—Antonella (which you can purchase online, though with a hefty shipping fee). While I’ve referenced most of these traditional ingredients in the recipe (save for the sausage), I’ve also provided some informed substitutions that will get you pretty close to the real deal. For example, I had trouble finding a local source for vernaccia di Oristano, so instead, I turned to fino sherry; this is the driest of the sherries and lends the requisite nutty, slightly sweet notes without making the sauce saccharine. But if you can get your hands on some vernaccia di Oristano (you can source it online) all the more power to you.
For the tomatoes, if you want a very authentic sauce, you can go ahead and buy the Alessi brand that Clark uses and recommends. I experimented with a few different brands of whole canned tomatoes I found at my local grocery store before settling on Alessi DOP whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes with basil; they were a nice balance of sweet and tangy, and melted nicely into the sauce; other brands like Muir Glen were watery and left hard chunks of tomato. For best results, spring for any good-quality brand of whole-canned tomatoes: DeLallo, Gustiamo’s, Mutti, and Bianco di Napoli are a few options. And if you can't find Pecorino Sardo (though you can buy it online and at specialty cheese counters, if you're willing to search), I found that good-quality Parmigiano-Reggiano, which has a similar sweet-salty taste, works. Orthodox, no, but it’s the closest thing most of us can easily get.
Then there’s the saffron. According to Clark and Sardinian blogger Claudia Tavani, most Sardinians use saffron powder because it’s cheaper. However, even after multiple grocery store visits I couldn’t find saffron powder; I only found threads. While you can buy saffron powder online, the good quality kind is about the same price as whole threads; I would pick whatever is more readily available to you, and in my case it was a tiny capsule of threads that set me back about $10.
The sausage was the trickiest ingredient to figure out. According to Clark, fresh Sardinian pork sausage is dark, almost maroon, with only a few added flavorings: garlic, fennel, black pepper, and sometimes chile. It’s also impossible to find stateside. So, I decided the best route was to make my own stand-in. It’s not as hard as it sounds, especially since you don’t need to stuff the mixture into casings; it just requires seasoning pre-ground pork with salt, pepper, garlic, fennel seeds, and red pepper flakes. If you want an even easier shortcut, you can use good-quality sweet Italian sausage removed from the casings or bought loose. The flavors might be different than the real deal, but you’ll still get a delicious porky ragù to serve with your malloreddus.
The one non-negotiable when making this dish is the finely-ground semolina flour—it’s essential to getting the chewy, toothsome texture of the malloreddus. Coarser semolina will result in a nubbly dough and rough pasta. King Arthur Baking Company sells a finely-ground version that they call “durum flour” (durum wheat is the varietal used to make semolina), which is perfect for this recipe.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoMany recipes call for rolling the dough into 1/2-inch-thick ropes, then cutting each rope into 1/2 -inch-thick chunks before shaping. I found the malloreddus this size a bit large and dense, and preferred slightly smaller ones, about 1/4 inch thick in size. This still produced a substantial yet slightly dainty malloreddus that felt more proportionate to the bits of ground meat in the ragù.
To get the shape of the malloreddus right, I used a gnocchi board (which produced perfect results), but I also discovered a fun alternative method if you don’t have (or don’t want to clutter your drawers with) a gnocchi board: a sushi mat. Just unroll the mat, take a nugget of dough and roll it in the direction of the bamboo—you’ll have a beautiful little malloreddus. If you have neither of these items, a fork will work in a pinch.
As I shaped the malloreddus, I placed them on a sheet pan coated lightly in semolina flour and tossed them with a little more semolina flour before covering them with plastic wrap. You can also freeze them by placing them on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper and covering it with plastic wrap, if you’re not using them right away.
The last step—but one that Clark says is integral to a cohesive final dish (we’ve said it too)—is to simmer the cooked pasta briefly in the sauce, which helps it cling better.
I won’t lie, this isn’t the type of pasta dish you throw together on a Tuesday night; it’s actually the definition of “homemade,” if there ever was one. But, the result—little chewy pasta nuggets swaddled in a fragrant, earthy, and porky ragù—is worth the time and effort. Serve it to those you really love (acquaintances, maybe not), or tuck into a bowl yourself, a glass of Barolo within arms reach, and luxuriate in the fruit of your labor.
For the Sausage (optional; see note): In a large bowl, combine ground pork, red pepper flakes, fennel seeds, salt, pepper, and garlic and, using your hands or a sturdy spatula, mix until thoroughly combined, sticky, and cohesive, about 1 minute. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFor the Malloreddus: In a large bowl, whisk together semolina flour and a pinch of saffron powder (if using) until well combined. Using your hands, make a small well in the center of the flour, then pour 5 fluid ounces water into the well. Using your fingertips, gradually stir the flour into the water until it holds together in a single mass. Then, knead dough in the bowl until a cohesive ball forms, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer dough ball to a work surface lightly dusted with semolina flour. Knead until dough is smooth and no dry flour remains, about 5 minutes. Shape dough into a ball, wrap with plastic wrap, and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoAlternatively, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combinesemolina flour, a pinch of saffron powder (if using), and 5 fluid ounces water and mix on low speed until flour is fully moistened, about 2 minutes. Scrape down bowl, then continue kneading on low speed until a smooth ball forms and no dry flour remains, about 3 minutes. Using your hands, shape the dough into a ball, wrap with plastic wrap, and let rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoLightly dust a rimmed baking sheet with semolina flour and set aside. On a clean work surface lightly dusted with semolina flour, roll dough into a roughly 12-inch long cylinder. Using a bench scraper, divide the cylinder into 8 equal portions and cover loosely with plastic wrap. Working with one portion at a time, roll into a long rope, about 1/4 inch thick. Using a bench scraper, cut rope into roughly 1/4-inch segments. Repeat with remaining portions, covering with plastic wrap as you go.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoUse a gnocchi board, sushi mat, or fork to shape the gnocchi. To do so, hold one piece of dough with the cut-side facing you, then use your thumb to pull the dough along the ridges of the board, sushi mat, or fork (ridges should be vertical to the dough). The shaped dough will have a little indentation from your thumb and should resemble a tiny tube. Transfer malloreddus to prepared baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and repeat with remaining dough, lightly dusting with additional flour as you go.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoFor the Sausage Ragù: In a large Dutch oven, heat olive oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add prepared sausage, using a wooden spoon to spread in an even layer across bottom of pot, and cook for 1 minute. Stir to break up sausage into 1/2-inch pieces.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoReduce heat to medium-low, add onion and cook, stirring frequently, until softened and nearly translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, crushed red pepper, black pepper, bay leaf, and saffron and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Pour in vernaccia di Oristano or sherry, using a wooden spoon to scrape up any brown bits on the bottom of the pot, and cook until raw alcohol smell has mostly cooked off, about 1 minute.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoAdd canned tomatoes and their liquid, salt, and 1/2 cup water, then crush the whole tomatoes roughly with a spoon. Return to a simmer, reduce heat to low, partially cover pot, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes. Remove lid, increase heat to medium, and cook, stirring frequently, until sauce is thick and slightly darker in color, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoTo Assemble and Serve: Meanwhile, bring a large pot of very well-salted water to a boil. Add malloreddus to boiling water and cook, stirring frequently, until they float to the surface, about 2 minutes. Using a spider skimmer or slotted spoon, scoop malloreddus and add directly to sausage ragù, along with 1/4 cup (60ml) pasta cooking water.
Increase heat to medium and cook, stirring gently, until malloreddus are coated in the slightly thickened sauce, about 1 minute. Stir in Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serve immediately, passing more grated cheese at the table.
Serious Eats / Lorena MassoSpecial EquipmentStand mixer, Dutch oven, bench scraper, gnocchi board or sushi mat (optional)
NotesIf you don’t want to make the sausage, you can buy 1 1/2 pounds (680g) fresh sweet Italian sausage (about 6 sausage links), removed from the casing.
If you choose to make the sausage, I recommend asking your butcher for ground pork that’s a mix of dark and light meat.
For finely-ground semolina flour, I like King Arthur’s finely-ground durum flour (durum wheat is the varietal used to make semolina).
Make-Ahead and StorageTo freeze uncooked shaped malloreddus, place pasta on a half sheet pan lined with parchment paper and freeze until firm, then transfer to a zipper-lock bag or an airtight container and store in the freezer for up to 1 month.
The sausage ragù can be made in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 6 months. We don’t recommend cooking the pasta and coating it in the ragù if you’re planning on storing it for a later time; the malloreddus will get soft and mushy.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianWhile Armenian grilled meats—or khorovats, which just means “grilled” in Armenian—are most associated with the skewered chunks of meats called shish kebab, Armenians are equally enamored with ground or minced meat patties on the grill. Whether at church bazaars and picnics, or my own family’s backyard gatherings, you never really see one without the other.
These grilled, spiced ground meat kebabs go by a few different names, depending upon how they are formed and grilled (the meat mixture and seasonings are essentially the same, whatever the shape). Lula or lule kebabs—lule means “rolled”—are formed into sausage-shaped logs (skewered or freeform) or into long, flat patties by pressing them onto special flat, sword-like skewers. But in New England, where I grew up, Armenians instead make losh kebab, which are round, freeform patties exactly like hamburgers, except with more zing to them.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianWhere shish kebab gets marinated and coated in a flavorful elixir made from onion, red wine, tomato paste, salt, and pepper, losh kebabs are seasoned (similarly) from the inside. Recipes of course vary from region to region and household to household; my own is based upon one from the family grill chief, my dad. (He’s considered such a local authority on Armenian grilled meats that he’s long been the foreman of our church’s event kebab-making crew, even though he should have been allowed to retire from that position years ago.) My losh kebab making technique differs from my dad’s here and there, but the flavor and texture of the kebabs is 100% identical to his, since they are unrivaled.
The MeatLosh kebabs can be made from beef or lamb; the choice is up to you, depending upon your preference. (Armenians love lamb, but they make losh kebab out of beef as often as lamb.) Though almost no home cooks do so nowadays, the traditional approach for making losh and lule kebabs was to painstakingly mince the meat with a knife, which divides it finely and evenly without bashing it to a paste. This creates the ideal texture in a ground-meat kebab. That said, the quality of the meat and the consistency of the grind make a difference in the result. So use the freshest, best-quality meat you can get here. And while it is not essential, if you can, get it freshly ground from your butcher, especially because that means it will be slightly coarser and closer to the ideal texture than most prepackaged ground meats.
The SeasoningsLosh kebabs are almost always seasoned with onion, red bell pepper, parsley, tomato paste, salt, and pepper. My only additions to this lineup are a touch of allspice, a warm spice commonly used with Armenian meat dishes, and mild red pepper paste, which combines the depth of tomato paste with the fruity flavor of red chiles, often used in ground meat patties too. Red pepper paste can be found at Middle Eastern grocery stores or online and is often labeled ‘biber salçasi’, since most brands come from Turkey.
Some people simply mince or dice the onion and bell pepper and combine them with the meat, but, like my dad, I prefer to first process them to a paste and then drain the paste of excess water in a sieve, which seasons the meat throughout while also ensuring they don’t make the mixture overly soft.
Making Losh KebabsThere are three ways in which my losh kebab recipe diverges from that of my dad and most others. I’ve been a recipe developer for many years now, and I’ve created numerous grilled ground meat patties and burgers during that time, so I have a bunch of tricks up my sleeve to make them as good as they can be. The first two are textural, while the third is purely a matter of aesthetics.
Losh kebabs, like other ground meat kebabs, are cooked until they are nicely charred on the exterior and fully-cooked within (meaning to a food-safe internal temperature of 160˚F or above). Because they are not left rare at the core, like burgers often are, they can sometimes dry out. To prevent this, I like to add two common pantry items to the meat mixture: powdered gelatin and panko breadcrumbs. Both function similarly, by absorbing and retaining moisture both before and during cooking, but they work better when used in tandem rather than singly. The breadcrumbs add a touch of bulk to the mixture, which helps keep the patties loose-textured rather than dense; the gelatin gets sticky once moist, which binds the mixture together while also upping juiciness. A one hour or longer rest before grilling the losh kebabs gives both ingredients time to activate for maximum effect.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianTo my losh kebabs resembling burgers, flat on the top and bottom, I dimple them slightly during shaping so that they don’t inflate into footballs when grilled. Ground meat patties expand as they cook, since their fibers shrink when heated, which causes their lateral exterior to cinch up like a belt. Making a depression in the top of the patty before cooking ensures they end up flat, despite this effect.
Unlike shish kebabs, which require an intense, close-set fire for rapid charring without overcooking, losh kebabs can be cooked over any standard hot grill setup, like other burgers and meat patties. Flare-ups can be a problem, so be sure to move them around the grill if they occur, to avoid scorching.
Like shish kebabs, I recommend lining the vessel you place the cooked losh kebabs in with a pita or two, which will soak up the juices they shed as they rest before serving. Not only will that keep the exterior of the meat from softening, the breads make for an enhanced sort of wrapper for the patties, a treat for whomever gets dibs on them.
In the bowl of the food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine onion and bell pepper and process until a smooth paste forms, 30 to 45 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Transfer mixture to a fine mesh strainer set over a medium bowl and allow to drain, about 15 minutes, pressing on solids with a rubber spatula to remove as much liquid as possible. Transfer onion-red pepper mixture to a large bowl, discarding any liquid.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianAdd parsley, red pepper paste, tomato paste, salt, allspice, pepper, and gelatin to bowl and stir until uniform. Add ground meat and breadcrumbs and knead with your hands until mixture is thoroughly combined and feels slightly sticky, about 2 minutes.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianDivide mixture into 8 equal portions (about 5 ounces; 140g each) and place on a parchment- or foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Gently shape each one into a patty about 3 1/2 inches wide and approximately 3/4 inch thick. Using three or four fingers, create a dimple by pushing down in the center of each patty. The dimple should be about 1/4 inch deep and 2 inches wide. Cover baking sheet with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianLight one chimney full of charcoal. When all the charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and arrange the coals on one side of the charcoal grate. Set cooking grate in place, cover grill, and allow to preheat for 5 minutes. Alternatively setburners on a gas grill to the highest heat setting, cover, and preheat for 15 minutes. Clean and oil cooking grate.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianLine a shallow serving bowl with one or two pita breads and set aside. Place patties on grill (directly over coals if using charcoal). Cook (covered if using gas) until patties are browned on the bottom and release easily from the grill, 4 to 7 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until browned on second side and meat registers 160˚F (71˚C), about 6 minutes longer. (If flare-ups occur, move patties around grill to avoid scorching.) Transfer patties to serving bowl, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 2 minutes. Serve, passing remaining pita on the side.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianSpecial EquipmentGrill (charcoal or gas)
NotesBiber salçasi can be found in Middle Eastern grocery stores or online. If unavailable, increase tomato paste to 2 tablespoons and add 1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper or 1 teaspoon sweet paprika.
Freshly-ground beef or lamb from your butcher, with a loose, coarse texture, works best here.
The pita used to line the serving platter soaks up juices from the cooked meat and is meant to serve as a tasty treat for the grill cook or anyone else, wrapped around pieces of meat.
Make-Ahead and StorageLosh kebab is best enjoyed immediately. Leftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container and reheated gently, or sliced and served cold in sandwiches.
Serious Eats / Will DickeyThere are few breads that don’t benefit from being set on some sort of heat-conducting baking surface. In the oven, breads rise (or “spring”, as bakers like to call it) when heat penetrates into the core of the dough, causing two things to happen. First, the yeast has one last blast of fermentation before meeting its ultimate demise, going out in a frantic blaze of carbon dioxide production. And second, some of the water in the dough turns into steam. Both of these processes cause the bubbles—or, more accurately, “alveoli”—in the dough to inflate like miniature balloons, opening up the interior crumb and expanding the overall dimensions of the loaf. But this process is a race against time, since that same heat causes the crust to firm up, locking down the shape of the loaf once and for all.
When baked directly on an oven rack (in or on a pan), heat penetrates into the loaf more or less evenly from all directions. But when you set the loaf on a heavy, preheated baking surface (in a pan or freeform), energy flows much more quickly into the core of the loaf, bumping up the rate of oven spring significantly and evening out the race between crust and crumb formation. (The only breads that don’t need a baking surface for success are enriched ones containing lots of fat—brioche or soft sandwich loaves, for example—since the fat keeps the crust soft, allowing the crumb to expand far longer than it otherwise can. But many bakers use baking surfaces for these too, since you can still get better oven spring on one.)
Flatbreads like pizza and foccacia are breads too, of course. And they also benefit from the use of a baking surface, but in this case the goal is the inverse of that for loaf breads: to cook the bottom crust as quickly as possible, so as not to overcook the interior crumb and/or the exposed crust and toppings. Oven spring is important in flatbreads, but it tends to happen automatically. More important is achieving a crisp bottom crust. Moisture in a pizza gets trapped between the bottom crust and a pan, slowing down crisping and browning. Setting the bread on a preheated surface (again, in a pan or freeform) helps that moisture boil away so that the crust can cook as quickly as possible.
There are two main kinds of baking surfaces: stones or steels. Baking “stones'' are a misnomer; most are formed from either terracotta clay or a mineral compound known as corderite, fired at high temperatures like pottery to make them solid and heat-resistant. While some people use cheap terracotta tiles for baking with success, the best stones are those made from corderite, since it is more heat stable and resistant to thermal shock—cracking or shattering when subjected to rapid heating or cooling—than terracotta (the shelves in most pottery kilns are made of corderite for this reason). A few stones are made from another mineral called mullite, which is similar to corderite, if purportedly more conductive (more on conductivity below). Baking steels are just that: thick sheets of raw steel cut to size, polished to remove sharp edges, and seasoned and sealed with oil to prevent rusting.
So which should the new baker buy: a stone or a steel? The answer is (as is often the case): It depends. Both stones and steels work great, so you cannot go wrong with either, though there are pros and cons to each, and which is best for you depends upon both your particular needs and budget.
Size ConsiderationsSerious Eats / Will DickeyBoth baking stones and steels come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and thicknesses. While the shape and exterior dimensions of the slabs do matter, most people are best served by one that is a) rectangular or square, and b) slightly smaller than the average oven rack. Rectangles and squares are better than round ones, because both give you a bigger, more forgiving target for the bread or pizza. (If you miss the mark with a round one, there’s a risk of it hanging off of the side, which is less than ideal, especially when there is molten cheese in the mix.) Plus, they provide enough room to bake long breads that would overhang a round surface, like baguettes.
And you generally want something generously-sized, while still leaving plenty of room for proper air circulation around the edges of the surface, to let the bread cook evenly both inside and out. For the average oven, this means something that is 15 to 16 inches in one direction and at least 12 inches in the other.
As far as thickness goes, that depends upon the material in question. All else being equal, the thicker the surface, the heavier the item. And the heavier the item, the more brawn it requires to move from storage to the oven and back again. Stones range from 1/2-inch to a little more than 1-inch thick, and from about eight pounds up to 13 pounds. The thinnest baking steels are 1/4-inch thick and weigh upwards of 16 pounds, already double the weight of the average stone. And only slightly thicker 3/8-inch steels can weigh as much as 27 pounds!
Price Matters, TooAll else being equal, baking stones are lighter on the wallet than steels, too. The price for a good 15-inch by 12-inch-ish stone is between $32 and $80, while the price of most 1/4-inch steels of similar dimensions start around $80. And 3/8-inch thick ones can cost $170.
ConductivitySerious Eats / Will DickeyPrice and weight aside, the biggest difference between stones and steels is in their relative conductivity. Conductive materials absorb and release energy (heat, in this case) more quickly than less-conductive ones, and steel is far more conductive than corderite or mullite. This allows steels to pump heat into the bread far more quickly than stones do. It also means that steels absorb heat more quickly than stones, cutting down on preheating time; stones usually need a good hour of preheating before use, while steels are ready to go in as little as 30 minutes.
With pizza and other flatbreads, this is unequivocally a good thing, since the faster these breads cook, the better. But with loafbreads, this can be a recipe for disaster, since the bottom of the loaf can burn before the rest of the crust or the interior has cooked sufficiently. In my experience, steel is often just too conductive for loaf breads; while there are plenty of people who use baking steels for loaf breads successfully, it is something I generally do not recommend. You don’t have to take my word for it, though: Baking Steel, the original baking steel company, sells special heatproof silicone rings meant to shield loaf breads from the intensity of the steel, to help mitigate this effect.
Thermal MassSerious Eats / Will DickeyWhat baking stones lack in conductivity they make up for in thermal mass, or the ability of a material to absorb and store energy and release it gradually. So while a steel acts like its own heating element once hot, pushing heat into the bread or flatbread in a flash, a stone is more like a battery, providing a long-lasting reserve of heat. This is especially helpful when baking multiple batches of bread or pizza in succession, since the stone won't need to be “recharged” between batches.
Cleanup and CareStones and steels are pretty low maintenance tools, no matter what they’re made of. If cheese or something like it gets onto the surface, just scrape or scrub off whatever remains once it cools down. Don’t use soap, since that can get absorbed by a stone and might remove the seasoning from the steel; it’s not necessary anyway, since any embedded residue will burn off the next time you heat it up. Other than cleaning, stones don’t need any other maintenance. Baking steels need occasional reseasoning, which is as simple as coating them lightly with vegetable oil before heating once every few months or so (or if you notice rust beginning to form).
The Bottom Line: Should You Buying a Baking Stone or a Baking Steel?Serious Eats / Will DickeyMy usual advice to someone who doesn’t yet own a baking surface is this: If you don’t have a lot of money to spend and/or don’t want to have to heft nearly 20 pounds of steel around, just get a good baking stone. They work wonderfully for both pizza and loaf breads, and while they are a little slower than steels for flatbreads, they still do a way better job than no surface at all. And if you are mostly interested in baking loaf breads, a stone is by far the superior choice, for its more tempered conductivity. In my experience, stones don’t need to be terribly thick or heavy to do a good job, so look for a square or rectangular one that is 15 by at least 12 inches in outside dimensions and half an inch or so thick, like this one.
On the other hand, if you are a pizza or flatbread person, can handle both the extra dollars and pounds, and don’t bake loaf breads often, get a steel; its superior conductivity will definitely take your pies to the next level. And you can always stick a sheet pan or two under your occasional loaf bread bakes to keep them from burning. I recommend going with a 1/4-inch thick steel, to keep the already heavy and costly device as light and affordable as possible. The o.g. Baking Steel and NerdChef steels are an excellent choices, but just-as-excellent but more affordable steels can also be found on places like Etsy. (Steel is steel is steel—as long as it is sealed well to avoid rust, they all work identically).
FAQsIs a baking stone or a baking steel more durable? Stones can crack, though the best ones shouldn’t; steels are pretty much indestructible, except when they lose their seasoning and start to rust.
Do you need to use parchment paper on a baking stone? You do not need to use parchment on a stone or a steel, but sometimes it is useful to, such as if the bread in question is very wet and maybe prone to sticking, if it makes transferring the bread(s) to the surface easier, or if the bread or flatbread contains ingredients or toppings that might melt and run onto the surface. In the case of pizzas and many other flatbreads, a sheet of parchment can inhibit good browning and crisping, because it traps steam and insulates the bread from the heat.
Do baking stones need to be greased?No! Don’t add oil or any other fat to a stone, or to a steel, other than the occasional light coating of seasoning oil. It’ll just smoke up your kitchen something awful.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianFor someone that is as obsessed with Italian cuisine as I am (by which I mean: a lot), I have only been to Italy but one time, for a mere 10 days one November awhile ago. But I packed a lot of eating into that one short trip, including tasting and falling in love with puntarelle alla Romana for the first time, then proceeding to order it daily the rest of the time I was in Rome. (Late autumn is the beginning of puntarelle season in Italy, which runs from October to April.)
Puntarelle salad is made by tossing crisp, juicy shreds of the mostly mild-mannered bitter green with a potent anchovy- and garlic-heavy dressing. The flavor of the salad isintense, no doubt, but, paradoxically, the texture and flavor of the puntarelle sands most of the edge off the garlic and anchovies, making it potent, but entirely pleasant. Case in point: My Midwest-raised wife does not care for salty, intense things like anchovies, olives, or capers, and yet even she loves this salad. It might seem like a strange dish to obsess over, but I love it madly, and I know I’m not the only one.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianFrom a distance, heads of puntarelle look a lot like other members of the chicory family they belong to, with a crown of long, slender, serrated leaves, with pale white ribs and deep green dandelion-like fringes, not unlike escarole. But these outer leaves conceal a bizarre surprise within: a gnarled cluster of pale green asparagus-like shoots, oftentimes knotted around one another like a freaky, many-fingered fist. (The shoots’ vague resemblance to asparagus explains why another name for puntarelle in Italian is cicoria asparago, or “asparagus chicory.”)
While the heart of puntarelle is sometimes braised, it is most commonly served raw, either as individual spears on an antipasto platter, or in the aforementioned salad. For the salad, the shoots are sliced into fine, long shreds with a knife, or, better yet, using a dedicated puntarelle cutter made from a series of gridded metal wires strung tautly across a wooden frame, which makes quick work of it. The shreds are then placed in a bowl of ice water for an hour or two, after which they form elegant, spiraled curlicues. (Produce stands and supermarkets in Italy sell pre-shredded and pre-curled puntarelle, eliminating the work entirely.) After that, the curls are tossed with a dressing made from olive oil, red wine vinegar, loads of pounded garlic and anchovies, herbs, and other salty, cured things like chopped olives or capers.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianWhen I came home from Italy, I looked high and low in my local farmer’s markets and specialty stores, but it seemed that nobody here in the Boston area grew puntarelle. Nor was it the sort of thing that showed up as an import from elsewhere, so my brief, passionate love affair came to an abrupt and well, bitter, end. (Puntarelle does show up in bigger markets like New York City and Los Angeles, so those of you living in places like that are fortunate enough to sustain an ongoing relationship with the vegetable.)
Until I decided I could live with a stand-in for the puntarelle, that is. While it doesn’t really resemble the vegetable, at least in its native form, its fellow chicory-cousin endive actually does make a pretty great substitute. Not only does it have a similar crisp-juicy texture and a mild-but-piquant bitterness, but—as I discovered after experimenting with it a bit—it also curls nicely when cut into shreds and iced down for awhile! It’s not the same, by any means: Its texture is a bit more starchy-fibrous than that of puntarelle, and it doesn’t curl quite as dramatically. But it scratches the same itch for me, and I make it all the time.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianThe method is the same as described above, with a few differences owing to the substitution. For starters, I like to use a mixture of white (Belgian) endive and red endive, which resembles white endive in form and flavor, except streaked red like the treviso—another chicory that has red-and-white variegated leaves like radicchio—it has been crossed with. (My local Trader Joe’s sells a mix of white and red in small packages.) To prep it, you quarter the heads without removing the core. You then slice each quarter lengthwise through the core into 1/4-inch-wide pieces. Leaving the core attached lets the pieces form frilly florets that curl chaotically when placed in ice water, giving them a bit more of a puntarelle-like appearance.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianIf you can get your hands on actual puntarelle, by all means swap it out for the imposter here. Once in a blue moon, I’ve been able to procure the real deal myself, and it was as good as I remembered when made with this recipe. Either way, it'll do until the day we can both get back to Rome again.
Pluck the outer leaves off the heads of puntarelle, tear or cut into bite-sized pieces, and set aside. Remove the shoots from the heads and, if present, trim and discard the woody bottom end of each. Cut shoots into 1/4-inch-thick strips (you may need to halve or quarter them lengthwise first). If there’s a fatter core, trim off the tougher base, cut it in half lengthwise, and then cut the halves into strips.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianSerious Eats / Andrew JanjigianAlternatively, if using endive, quarter endive lengthwise without removing cores. Slice each quarter into 1/8-inch strips lengthwise, at an angle through core, so leaves remain attached.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianTransfer prepared puntarelle or endive to a bowl and cover fully with cold water and a handful of ice cubes. Cover with a small plate or other similar object to keep pieces submerged. Refrigerate until curled, at least 2 hours (they may remain submerged for up to 18 hours).
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianDrain puntarelle or endive and dry in a salad spinner. Refrigerate until needed.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMeanwhile, place anchovies, garlic, and salt on a cutting board and mash with the back of a fork until a coarse paste forms. Transfer to a medium bowl. Add vinegar and whisk until uniform. Add oil in a thin stream, whisking constantly, until emulsified.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianAdd puntarelle or endive, parsley, and half of the capers to bowl and toss to coat with dressing. Season with pepper and salt to taste. Transfer to a serving platter, top with remaining capers, and serve.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianSpecial Equipmentsalad spinner
NotesSome supermarkets sell heads of red endive, which is actually a cross between endive and treviso. (Trader Joe’s sells them in mixed packs.) Use a mix of both if you can find them for a splash of color.
Make-Ahead and StorageOnce soaked, drained, and spun dry, endive or puntarelle will keep for up to 24 hours in the refrigerator.
Serious Eats / Mariel De La CruzComing out of the holiday season and into the New Year, you may find yourself with one (or a few!) new pieces of kitchen gear, thanks to Santa or the Holiday Armadillo. While a new piece of equipment is exciting, you might be scratching your head and wondering where to start with it. If you were gifted an immersion or high-speed blender, you're well equipped to turn out soups, hummus, and or sweet treats like pistachio cream. A sous vide machine is not only essential for cooking juicy meat dishes, but can also excel at other tasks like making vegetables or even a homemade vanilla extract. Stand mixers are good for a variety of tasks, like whipping up desserts and breads. If there's one piece of equipment that truly covers the realm of both sweet and savory dishes, it's the cast iron skillet. A trusty pressure cooker is great for cutting down on cook time for a number of dishes like chili and risotto. And finally, a mortar and pestle will help you on your way to making all the sauces, pastes, and dips your heart desires.
We've rounded up 21 recipes to use if you've found yourself with one of these shiny new pieces of kitchen equipment. Time to get cooking!
Immersion BlenderHomemade Pistachio CreamVicky WasikAn immersion blender makes this nutty, pale green whipped cream thick and stable.
Two-Minute MayonnaiseDiana ChistrugaUsing an immersion blender, you end up with a cup full of creamy, perfectly emulsified, real-deal, better-than-anything-you-can-buy mayonnaise.
Thick and Creamy Tomato SoupVicky WasikStella's take on the famous Nordstrom's tomato basil soup uses carrot purée and just a splash of cream to create a thick, hearty, and warming meal.
Sous Vide MachineSous Vide Buffalo Chicken WingsPhotographs: Joel Russo. Video: Serious Eats TeamCooking chicken wings sous vide allows you to get perfectly cooked meat that's supremely juicy.
Sous Vide Glazed CarrotsSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergSous vide carrots are intensely flavorful and perfectly cooked—every time.
Homemade Vanilla ExtractSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezWe tested and found that this homemade vanilla extract is better (and cheaper!) than store-bought.
Stand MixerBriocheSerious Eats / Debbie WeiThis classic brioche is airy and tender, with a deeply rich and buttery flavor thanks to a hands-off cold fermentation.
Creamy Whipped Greek YogurtVicky WasikA light and fresh dessert that comes together easily with the help of a stand mixer.
One-Bowl, Overnight Cinnamon RollsVicky WasikA lazy-weekend secret weapon that takes only one bowl and can be made in advance.
Cast Iron SkilletFoolproof Pan PizzaSerious Eats TeamA pan pizza recipe for those who love a thick and crispy crust that's golden on the bottom, but puffy and soft under the layers of sauce and mozzarella.
Pan-Roasted Chicken With Vegetables and Dijon JusSerious Eats / Mariel De La CruzA serve-it-in-one-pan wonder that leaves no flavor behind.
Chocolate Skillet Cake With Milk Chocolate FrostingVicky WasikThis chocolate cake topped with milk chocolate frosting couldn't be easier—it's made and baked right in a cast iron skillet.
Pressure CookerPressure Cooker Tomato SauceJ. Kenji López-AltThe pressure cooker gives you a red sauce with all-day flavor on a weeknight schedule.
Pressure Cooker Chunky Beef and Bean ChiliVicky WasikUnlike a lot of chili recipes that call for short cooking times but deliver terrible flavor, this classic chunky beef-and-bean recipe saves time the right way: by using a pressure cooker, not by cutting corners.
Pressure Cooker Mushroom RisottoSerious Eats / Mariel De La CruzCreamy, intensely flavored mushroom risotto that's ready to eat in less time.
High-Speed BlenderNigerian Masa (Fermented Rice Cake Balls)Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineCrunchy fermented rice cakes—made by blending the batter and then baking—that can be served sweet or savory.
The Best Smooth HummusSerious Eats / Qi AiPuréeing garlic in lemon juice and blending chickpeas while they're hot produces hummus that's both smooth and flavorful.
The Best Potato-Leek SoupSerious Eats / Eric KleinbergAn easy potato-leek soup that takes no shortcuts to deliver the best flavor and texture possible.
Mortar and PestleThe Best Pesto alla Genovese (Classic Basil Pesto Sauce)Photographs and video: Vicky WasikTradition says to use a mortar and pestle when making pesto, and in this case, tradition is right.
Prik Gaeng Khiao Waan (Thai Green Curry Paste)Vicky WasikFresh green chiles are the key to this bright and balanced curry paste.
Nam Prik Ong (Thai Pork-and-Tomato Chile Dip)Ground pork, tomatoes, and dried chiles are the stars of this spicy-savory northern Thai dip.
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezMost bags of coffee have enough beans to make about 16 cups. Of course, this depends on how you brew your coffee. But, roughly speaking, if you drink a cup of coffee a day, a typical bag will last about two to three weeks—that’s approximately how long most roasters would estimate a bag of coffee stays fresh.
Not everyone finishes a bag of coffee within that time frame, and you might have noticed the brew from the last batch of beans tastes significantly different than the first. When roasted coffee begins to stale, all of its the lovely components—the aromatics, sweetness, and acidity—start to fade. Over time, your coffee might begin to taste flat, even rancid. So what’s an occasional coffee sipper to do as they slowly work through their bag of beans? What about the coffee aficionado who buys multiple bags of beans, toggling through their selection but ultimately slowing down how quickly they go through their stash?
One possible solution is to store your coffee in a coffee canister: some sort of container whose expressed purpose is to keep coffee fresher, longer. But do you really need one? Or is storing it in its bag just as good? We tested out three different types of canisters to figure it out.
What Is Fresh Coffee, Anyways?Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezFreshness in coffee is a weird thing. For one, it’s not quantifiable—there’s no real expiration date, although some bags do have somewhat meaningless dates that are one to two years after roasting (and some roasters are experimenting with “best by” dates). And regardless, coffee doesn’t go bad in a way that can make you sick. If you drink a very old bag of coffee, the worst it can do is taste…not great. Also, freshness can’t be visually assessed just by looking at the beans, and there’s no one flavor or giveaway sign that a coffee's stale.
I talked a little bit about freshness in my breakdown of coffee blooming and bubbles. Coffee is an agricultural product—basically, think of it like any other food item we grow and eat—and like most foods, oxygen is what causes coffee to stale. Roasting creates carbon dioxide (CO2) inside of coffee beans, and, in a way, CO2 acts almost as a shield around coffee, protecting it from oxygen. But CO2 eventually leaves coffee beans in a process called degassing, so coffee begins to lose that protective layer over time.
However, unlike most food items, freshness does not have a linear relationship with flavor and quality: in fact, most roasters would recommend letting your coffee rest for at least a few days after roasting, and our understanding of resting and peak freshness has morphed over time. I remember when I first started as a barista and thought anything five to seven days off-roast was old, and now I barely bat an eye at a coffee that’s been resting for two-plus weeks. CO2 acts as a shield against coffee going stale—but it also acts as an inhibitor to extracting flavor from your grounds. Some folks even recommend waiting as long as eight weeks to enjoy a bag of beans, depending on the roast profile—lighter roasted coffees will release CO2 slower than darker roasted beans because their cellular structures aren’t as open (so CO2 has a harder time moving through the inside of a coffee bean, even though less CO2 is created with lighter coffees).
And, just to complicate things more, it’s important to note that “resting” a coffee usually means storing it in a container with a one-way valve (the valve lets CO2 out as the coffee degasses but doesn’t let oxygen in)—not simply that a bag of beans will stay tasty for that long. Every time you open a bag of beans and jostle it around, you’re displacing CO2 and letting oxygen in. Some coffee roasters even go as far to recommend only scooping beans out from the very top layer of your bag so as not to disturb the coffee below. Freshness is such a complicated topic in coffee that scientists are studying how it works to understand better what’s going on as coffee stales.
Are Coffee Canisters Necessary?Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezIf you were to ask me 10 years ago if coffee canisters were a necessary coffee tool, I would have said yes. I remember a time where leading coffee brands used what essentially amounted to a fancy version of a brown paper bag for their packaging, closing the tops with a tin tie—which did nothing to preserve freshness.
But now? Almost all coffee bags have two really key features to preserve freshness: one, they almost all have a one-way valve, which I mentioned earlier. One-way valves make sure that the CO2 from your degassing coffee has somewhere to go. But secondly: most coffee bags have zip top seals, making them an effective displacement container, especially if you take the added step of squeezing the excess oxygen when you seal the bag. Some coffee companies go an extra step, doing things like nitrogen flushing the bag to displace oxygen when being sealed.
In this test, I used the bag my coffee came in not just as a control, but also as a viable coffee canister in its own right. I wanted to see if the zip top closure and the one-way valve did enough to keep coffee fresh.
Types of Coffee CanistersSerious Eats / Ashley RodriguezAlthough most coffee canisters claim to do the same thing—keep coffee fresh—not all canisters are made the same. Coffee YouTuber James Hoffmann tested out a range of coffee canisters on his channel, and he sorted them based on three categories:
- Airtight Containers: An airtight container is pretty self-explanatory: it keeps air out. Almost anything with a twist-off lid (think Mason jars) will keep air out of a container, and can also be handy for keeping out other contaminants like dust or bugs.
- Displacement Containers: These types of containers involve some sort of mechanism to displace air out of a container. One way to visualize how these kinds of containers work is by pushing out the oxygen of a zip top bag.
- Vacuum-Sealed Containers: Vacuum-sealed containers pump oxygen out of containers to create—you guessed it—a vacuum within the container. The vacuum produces a pressurized seal that prevents oxygen from coming in.
Hoffmann’s video tests about a dozen coffee canisters, and he picks one canister in each category that he thinks performed well, although he notes at the end of testing that he didn’t see a huge difference in flavor between the styles of canisters.
I wanted to really hone in on that observation. I can speak on and on about freshness and its complexity, but in a real life scenario where I’m just brewing coffee at home, would I be able to tell the difference, taste-wise, between each style of canister? I chose the three canisters Hoffmann singled out—the Coffeevac, the Airscape, and the Fellow Atmos—each representing a category of canister styles, to put his final conclusion to the test.
The TestsSerious Eats / Ashley RodriguezI ordered a coffee roasted by my friends at Lost Sock Roasters in Washington, D.C., and I specifically picked a darker-roasted coffee to speed up the oxidation process. My coffee was roasted on October 19th, I opened it on October 26th, and divided out four equal doses of coffee amongst the three containers and the bag that the coffee came in (which featured a zip top and one-way valve). I then left the canisters alone for eight days, and then brewed coffee with beans from each container using a Kalita Wave and a brewing recipe of 30 grams of coffee to 500 grams of water.
Each canister worked a little differently:
- The Coffeevac simply had a button you pressed to put on and take off the lid.
- The Airscape has both a lid and a plunger with a handle you use to press the air out.
- The Atmos has the most innovative design feature—unlike most vacuum-sealed canisters, which usually have a detached piston you have to use to pressurize the container, the Atmos dispels oxygen by twisting the lid back and forth rapidly. After about 30 seconds, a small green dot will show up on the lid to indicate the canister is pressurized (you have to check in on the canister every five days or so and repressurize).
I decided that I wanted to primarily rely on taste assessments here because I saw a disconnect between how we talk about freshness and the actual implications freshness has on the way folks at home were consuming coffee. Sure, a coffee that’s been open for a month might not be super fresh, but if it still tastes good, that shouldn’t matter. Likewise, I saw folks recommending super long resting times, but that felt impractical for most home consumers. How many people are buying bags of coffee to let sit on their shelves for weeks before opening?
Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezHowever, I did want to see if the canisters would effect brewing times: in general, coffee goes through sort of a bell curve in terms of how quickly it brews. Samo Smrke, a scientific associate at the Zurich University of Applied Sciences, did an experiment with espresso extraction and found that “very fresh coffee was flowing fast. A coffee that aged a bit flows slower but then once it’s getting really old, it starts to flow again faster.” I wasn’t sure if this was replicable with drip brewing, nor did I duplicate Smrke’s brewing conditions (they used, as they described during their talk with the Specialty Coffee Association, “a fresh coffee, a two months old coffee, and a days old coffee.”) However, all the brewing times were within 20 seconds of one another:
I then tasted all four after letting each cup sit for five minutes, and then I randomized the cups and had fellow Serious Eats writer Jesse Raub taste them (I couldn’t provide anonymized results since I had to brew the cups one at a time, so I knew which cup was which based on temperature). I had him give me his impressions and compared them to my own.
In general, none of the coffees tasted that much different from one another, but both Jesse and I were able to group the coffees into two separate groups. We found that the Airscape and the Coffeevac cups were indistinguishable from one another, but flatter than the coffees from the Fellow and the coffee bag. We also found the coffee brewed from the Atmos and the coffee bag more vibrant, with the Atmos edging out the coffee bag just a bit—but not by much. I doubt I’d notice the difference if I wasn’t looking for it.
The Conclusion: Most Coffee Canisters Aren't Worth It (with the Exception of Vacuum-Sealed Ones)Serious Eats / Ashley RodriguezThis sort of feels…anticlimactic, right? I felt the same way Hoffmann feels at the end of his video. “The results, from a taste perspective, were not what I hoped them to be,” he says. I wanted there to be big, surprising results, but there weren’t, which leads me to the same conclusion Hoffmann makes: “That would also mean, in many situations, I would also be happy storing coffee in a resealable bag.”
So the first place to start when considering buying a coffee canister is how you buy coffee: if you order beans online or buy bags from your local coffee shop, the best piece of advice I can offer is to buy coffee from roasters who make resealable bags. Squeeze out any excess oxygen anytime you open the bag, and make sure to store your coffee in a cool, dark place (we didn’t talk much about this, but I specifically chose non-transparent canisters to test since light can affect aging and staling).
But if you buy your coffee in bulk or regularly share beans with others, an airtight container like a Mason jar will do well for you, unless you really want to step up your freshness game—then I’d skip over any airtight or displacement canisters and go straight for the Fellow Atmos. Not only did it keep coffee the freshest and the best-tasting of the bunch of canisters we tested, but its design features make it easier to use than similar models.
FAQsWhat other elements should I consider when storing coffee? You want to keep your coffee away from light, heat, and moisture. In this experiment, we only purchased canisters that were opaque, although many manufacturers sell glass or clear canisters, which are fine as long as you store them in a dark place like a cabinet or drawer.
Can I store ground coffee in a canister? In the airtight and displacement ones, yes, but not in the Fellow Atmos. According to the Fellow website, “Storing ground coffee or very fine substances may clog the intake valve and prevent a proper vacuum seal.”
Can I use a coffee canister for other items? Yes! There’s nothing about most canisters that are specific to coffee—tea, spices, or anything that could degrade over time when exposed to oxygen. But be mindful and read the instructions to make sure you can use your canister for other things. For example, Fellow suggests you shouldn’t store ground coffee in their Atmos canisters since the particles could clog the intake valve.
Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinMicrowave cooking can either go very badly or surprisingly well. Personally, I’ve had my fair share of questionable microwaved meals and dishes; one time I tried to make a dessert my sister and I can only think back on as a strange, wet, banana concoction in a mug.
But I’ve also had great experiences making simple things in the microwave (like chocolate cake and steamed broccoli). So when I found out about Anyday Cookware, which promises to make all manner of meals in the microwave, I was intrigued. Did these dishes truly cook ingredients as well as claimed using only a microwave (including eggs and chicken)? Was using the cookware actually going to make cooking easier and more convenient?
I set out to find answers to these burning (no pun intended) questions by testing the Everyday Set, which includes four dishes: a large deep dish, large shallow dish, medium deep dish, and medium shallow dish. Each dish is made from frosted borosilicate glass—with glass lids banded with microwave-safe stainless steel and silicone rims underneath—and all claim to cook up meals in a matter of minutes, sans turning on your stove or burner.
The TestingSerious Eats / Abigail ClarkinI made five different recipes from Anyday’s website, which has quite the array of options, including poached salmon, macaroni and cheese, and even birthday cake. What’s cool is that recipes can be adjusted for the desired serving size, as well as your microwave’s wattage. Just input how many people you want to serve, the microwave wattage, and voila: the recipe will adjust the ingredient quantities and cook time. Recipes are also broken down by dish, so if you’re looking to feed a family of three, they might suggest using the large deep dish.
One thing to know before you get started cooking is your microwave’s wattage (mine clocks in at 1000 watts). You can often find this on the door, the back, or the front panel of your microwave. Once I knew my wattage, it was time to get cooking. First, I used the medium shallow dish to make poached eggs and a pumpkin pie. Then, I tested the medium deep dish by making asparagus with lemon butter. In the large deep dish, I cooked up a mac and cheese. Lastly, and perhaps most controversially, I made honey mustard chicken wings using the large shallow dish. Following cooking, I cleaned the dishes by hand and evaluated how easy it was to do so, while also taking note of its durability.
What We LearnedHow Anyday Cookware WorksSerious Eats / Abigail ClarkinAnyday Cookware boasts a variety of microwave- and dishwasher-safe dishes and corresponding lids. And the dish's sturdy, frosted borosilicate glass is “thermal-shock resistant,” meaning it won’t crack when exposed to fluctuations in temperature.
The lids are made of glass as well, and feature a stainless steel rim, silicone knob, and silicone lining on the underside. The silicone lining helps ensure a tight seal, keeping moisture and heat inside each dish, while the knob can be pulled up or pushed down to allow for venting.
The most surprising aspect of the dishes’ design is the metal ring around the edge of the lid. Most people, including myself, grew up being warned about putting metal in the microwave. The reason this metal band doesn’t cause sparks to fly is likely due to its type of metal, thickness, and round shape. Stainless steel isn’t as conductive as, say, gold, and the round shape of the metal ensures that energy stays contained and has no way to jump off (in contrast, if you put a fork in the microwave, the sharp prongs encourage electricity to jump from them, which is known as arcing). But why did Anyday feel the need to put metal on the lid? What’s the point of it? According to their website, the stainless steel rim helps hold silicone and glass together, ensuring your lid doesn’t fall apart (important!).
Anyday Dishes Cooked a Variety of Foods Well (Including Chicken)Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinWhile I had no worries about a microwave baking a small mug cake sufficiently, eggs and meats were a different territory altogether—I envisioned rubbery chicken wings and overcooked eggs. But, I was pleasantly surprised. The honey mustard chicken wings were cooked well with absolutely no dryness, nor rawness, and the sauce thickened and was quite flavorful. While they weren’t air fryer crispy wings, they were still tasty.
When I made poached eggs, I thought they'd be somewhat rubbery and the yolk completely soupy or hard. However, cooking the eggs for three minutes and 30 seconds (the recipe recommended between two minutes and 30 seconds to three minutes and 30 seconds) led to firm egg whites and yolks with a lightly hardened edge and jammy center. The asparagus was also great: instead of being rubbery, the vegetables were simultaneously cooked well enough to be fork tender and not so overdone that the lovely bright green color was sacrificed.
Serious Eats / Abigail ClarkinThe mac and cheese was also a pleasant surprise: the noodles cooked through perfectly in the allotted time. I expected a crunch to the noodles due to the water evaporating too quickly, leaving them high and dry. But the amount of water was perfect: just a little bit of water had to be drained between cooking the noodles and adding the cheese sauce ingredients. Since the dish was in the microwave for over 12 minutes, the glass did heat up a bit, and I had to use oven mitts to take it out to drain the water. But since the glass is frosted, it had more of a textured grip to it, making it easy to grasp, even with bulky mitts.
Recipes Required Some FlexibilitySerious Eats / Abigail ClarkinWhile the Anyday recipes were very easy to follow and simple in theory, the cook time for every single dish required some adjustments. Microwaves can range in power and wattage; the microwave I used had a standard 1000-watt output, but I still had to add extra time to some dishes. (Again, each of Anyday’s recipes did include options to alter them according to serving size and microwave wattage.)
Most of the dishes I made required just 30 seconds of adjustment, but the pumpkin pie was a challenge. This recipe had an additional step to change the power level to four (my microwave is usually set at 10). At the lower level, the pie failed to reach the desired doneness. Instead of the top of the pie darkening and the mixture looking set on top, the center of the pie continued to wiggle, jiggle, and shimmy. It wasn’t until I added an additional seven minutes of cooking time to the initial recommended 15 minutes that the top of the pie firmed up. The whole process required much poking of the pie and peering through the microwave window.
This is to say: there may be a learning curve and adjustments may be required, as microwaves just aren't all the same.
Dishes Were Easy to Use and CleanSerious Eats / Abigail ClarkinOne fantastic aspect of the Anyday Cookware was just how easy the dishes were to clean. Thanks to the frosted exterior of the glass, the dishes didn’t get slippery even when wet and soapy. Aside from some stubborn bits of melted cheese stuck to the large deep dish from the mac and cheese, each dish and lid were painless to hand-wash (and they were all dishwasher-safe, too).
For those who like to use a minimal amount of dishes while cooking, the Anyday Cookware would likely appeal. Each recipe required only measuring spoons or cups alongside using the dish itself. Meals could also be stored in the very same dishes they were cooked in, which was quite nice (and thanks to the thermal-shock resistant borosilicate glass, there was no fear of the dish cracking when put into the refrigerator).
When it came to handling the dishes, the frosted glass was easy to grip while moving into and out of the microwave. Unless the recipe required over five minutes of cooking, the dish and lid did not get overly hot to the touch. (I did have to be wary of the steam that released when I opened the dishes, though.)
The Verdict: Is Anyday Cookware Worth It? Anyday Cookware’s Everyday set turned out to be wonderfully functional, easy to clean, and a great purchase for those hoping to make meal preparation microwave-friendly and uncomplicated. We were happy with how well the cookware handled a variety of dishes. Chicken wings, poached eggs, asparagus, and more turned out well. Simple dishes, such as steaming raw vegetables, can easily be made in an Anyday dish without specific directions. But we do recommend following an Anyday recipe–or at least using it as a jumping off point–when it comes to more complicated meals (like those with raw meat).
Key Specs Materials: Dishes are made from frosted borosilicate glass, and lids are made from borosilicate glass, platinum-grade silicone, and microwave-safe stainless steel * Weight: 2-3 pounds * Care instructions: Both dishes and lids are dishwasher-safe * Price at time of publish:* $120
FAQsWhere can you buy Anyday Cookware?The best place to buy Anyday Cookware is directly from their website. Dishes come in a variety of colors–including kale (that’s what we reviewed), blueberry, and black sesame. They can be ordered as a set or individually.
Is Anyday Cookware dishwasher-safe? All of the Anyday Cookware is dishwasher-safe. We found that the dishes and lids were very easy to hand-wash, but also well sized to fit inside dishwashers.
How do I find my microwave’s wattage?There are multiple ways to find both the output and the input wattage for your microwave. (Pay attention to the output for the Anyday recipes.) The wattage can often be found on the machine itself: check along the front panel, the back, or on the door. If you’re unable to find the information directly on the microwave, read through your appliance's user manual or locate the model number and search the internet for the wattage.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianAt $300, the Balmuda toaster (or, more accurately, Balmuda the Toaster, as the Japanese company refers to it) costs far more than the majority of un-smart toaster ovens, even though it has—at 600 cubic inches—less than half of the capacity of most of them. It's just roomy enough to hold two modest slices of bread. And while the Balmuda does have three simple temperature-specific heating modes (350°F to 450°F), it's really meant to do one thing well: heat, brown, and crisp bread products—toast, pastries, and pizzas. Which makes it a very expensive one-trick-pony.
I’m a bread baker and baking instructor who works entirely from home, so I eat a lotof toast. And I’ve been using a Balmuda pretty much daily for the last six months now, so I have a good sense of how well the toaster works. Whether or not it’s worth the sticker price, I cannot say—that depends entirely on the contents of your bank account and your willingness to part with that much of it. Does it make amazing toast, even out of bread that surely would be long past the point of no return under any other circumstances? Does it ever.
How the Balmuda Toaster WorksSerious Eats / Andrew JanjigianHow does the Balmuda transform rock-hard bread into perfect toast and return days-old croissants and limp, stale pizza slices to whatever greatness they began life with? The secret is steam. Hidden on the top of the oven and revealed when the door is pulled down is a slot into which you pour 5cc (1 teaspoon) of water before adding the bread and turning it on. (The toaster comes with a cute miniature plastic coffee mug for precise water measurement.) The water flows into a metal channel inside the oven cavity, above an electric element that heats it to a boil at the beginning of the toast cycle, filling the oven with steam. The steam softens the exterior of the bread before boiling off completely, while the top and bottom oven elements cycle on and off to gently heat the bread inside and out without overcooking the exterior. Finally, in the last 30 seconds or so, the elements heat up continuously in order to brown and crisp the toast.
Retro RetrogradationSerious Eats / Andrew JanjigianWhy a jacket of steam at the start of toasting helps restore bread to its former glory has to do with how bread stales in the first place. Hard, stale bread might seem dry, but—unless it has been deliberately dried or allowed to sit at room temperature in a dry environment for a long time—it actually contains loads of water. The problem is that the water isn't where we want it to be.
To back up a bit: when bread bakes, the starches in the flour and the water in the dough heat up and combine to form something known as a gel. Gelled starches are soft and flexible, which is why fresh bread products are tender. Staling—or retrogradation, as it's also known—is the reverse of this process: over time, the starches naturally expel the water they contain and crystallize, leaving them hard and brittle. (Starch retrogradation also accounts for what happens to a container of takeout rice left in the fridge a few hours: the rice grains become gritty, even though they haven't lost any of the water they contained.)
The gelling-retrogradation cycle is infinitely reversible, at least in theory, since the expelled water surrounds the crystallized starches. This is why you can pop that rice into the microwave for a few minutes and turn it from gritty to soft again. And it is why the interior of a slice of bread tenderizes when it's toasted. In practice, however, some of the water that gets booted from the starches also evaporates, never to join forces again. This happens both slowly as a loaf of bread sits on the counter, and rapidly when a slice toasts in a “regular” toaster. In the latter case, the heat of the oven causes the water in the outer layers of the slice to boil off, turning the bread hard, rather than crisp; the older the slice, the thicker this hard outer layer. (“Crispness" is what you get when that outer layer of hard starches is kept to little more than a thin shell.)
The Balmuda solves this problem by saturating the oven atmosphere with moisture. With all that extra water hanging around, the water inside the bread isn't as tempted to boil off as it heats up, keeping that outer layer of crispness as thin as possible. And, in the case of breads that have sat around awhile before being toasted, it restores much of the exterior moisture that was lost. It’s a simple trick, but extremely effective.
Toast à la ModeSerious Eats / Andrew JanjigianThere are two knobs on the front of the Balmuda. The dial on the left selects the oven mode: sandwich bread, artisan bread, pizza, pastry, and three steam-free, temperature-specific options for cooking or reheating other foods, from 350°F to 450°F. The knob on the right houses the power button and a dial for setting the cook time, from one to 15 minutes, in 30-second intervals up to the first five minutes and 60-second intervals beyond that.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianThe “bread” modes are tuned to the product being toasted, and vary in the orientation and intensity of the heat during the cycle:
- The “sandwich bread” mode works as described above: steam with oscillating heat, followed by even, continuous heat from both above and below. It’s meant to be used on soft-by-nature, thinly-sliced sandwich breads and English muffins.
- The “artisan bread” mode is identical, except it runs at a higher temperature, to help the oven handle thicker, crustier slices of bread, like sourdoughs.
- The “pizza” mode—used for slices of pizza set on the mini sheet pan included with the oven—heats the top element more than the lower one, to ensure rapid and sufficient melting and crisping of the cheese. And it is meant to be used to toast bagels, which want toasting on their cut faces only. (This mode can also be used to make kissaten, aka “pizza toast”, in which you top slices of bread with sauce, grated cheese, and whatever else you like. Or to just make cheesy toast.)
- The “pastry” mode eliminates the final blast of heat of the three other modes, since things like croissants and donuts want softening and heating through, but not toasting. (They still crisp up, because the steam boils away before the cycle is complete.)
But Does the Balmuda Actually Toast Well?Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianIn my testing,allof the modes worked as described, on both fresh and not-at-all-fresh breads, pizza, and pastries. While the Balmuda never failed to amaze, no matter what I threw at it, perhaps its most impressive trick was restoring many-days-old, dried-out, and hollow-sounding croissants to tender, crisp, and buttery delights. (The Balmuda is no miracle worker, of course. What you get when the timer bell dings is only going to be as good as that thing was on the day it was born; it cannot transform frozen-dough crescent rolls into les croissants Française.)
The trick to using the Balmuda effectively is knowing how long to set the cook time, and this is something that only comes with practice. The "sweet spot" for most products is between three and five minutes—less for thinner, less bulky items, more for thicker ones. (You can also use the Balmuda to toast or reheat frozen bread, pastries, or pizza. In this case you need to add a few extra minutes to give the item time to thaw fully before toasting.) If you overshoot and the bread gets too dark, there is obviously no way to course correct; if you undershoot, however, you can run the cycle again (without adding water for steam) for a minute or two until the bread is toasted enough.
The three “temperature” modes work as described, too, though I didn't use them very often, since the oven and its accompanying mini baking sheet are only big enough to hold a small amount of food. But it’s nice to have in a pinch, especially when I’d rather not fire up my oven-oven just to reheat some leftover roasted potatoes or whatnot.
The Bottom Line: Should You Buy the Balmuda Toaster?The Balmuda is not perfect(though maybe with a $300 sticker price it ought to be). The one place I think it could be improved is in the evenness of the toast from top to bottom; in my experience, the top of the slice comes out consistently a few shades darker than the bottom does. This is easily overcome by flipping the slice and giving it another minute or two, but it would be better if you didn't have to do this, of course.
Despite this minor annoyance, having a Balmuda has completely transformed my relationship to toast. If you're looking for a compact toaster oven, live in a household with one to two people, value aesthetics, and are really only planning on using the oven for toasting, you'll likely love the Balmuda, too.
FAQsWhat's the best way to clean the Balmuda toaster? Balmuda has clear instructions that can be found here for cleaning the toaster. The instructions are broken down by toaster oven part, too.
What's special about the Balmuda toaster? The Balmuda uses steam and temperature controls to toast bread and reheat pastries and pizza. During our testing, we found this steam-powered technology worked exceptionally well for toasting and reheating.
Serious Eats / Sabrina TanWe take a lot of pride in the work we do at Serious Eats, and very little of it would be possible without the stellar roster of writers, recipe developers, photographers, and artists who bring their talents to the site. Our present and past contributors are some of the best in the industry, and we're incredibly lucky to get to work with them. We wanted to take a moment to highlight some of the recipe developers and photographers who have contributed the most this past year, and learn a little more about their own personal highlights of the year. We hope you enjoy learning about them as much as we enjoy working with them!
Tim Chin is a professional cook and writer who started contributing to Serious Eats in early 2020. He cooked for years at restaurants in New York and Boston, working at Rouge Tomate, Northern Spy, and most recently, BiSq. He also spent three years at America’s Test Kitchen, creating and testing recipes. He is passionate about sourdough, funky hot sauce, and sustainable agriculture. Outside of cooking, Tim spends most of his free time rock climbing and trying not to kill his house plants.
Serious Eats / Sabrina TanFavorite recipe developed this year for Serious Eats? I don't think I developed any recipes this year, save for the three kombucha recipes I developed for the Bubbles! digital issue. I really like how the strawberry, rhubarb, and parsley kombucha turned out. [Editor's Note: 2022 saw fewer recipes from Tim, but that doesn't mean he didn't contribute quite a bit to the site. His other 2022 contributions include a guide to cornstarch; a complete overhaul of our multi-part series on wok techniques; and in-depth reviews of both woks and sauciers.]
What was the most memorable meal you had this year? Hoppers in London, UK. The place is legendary at this point (and everyone should check out their new cookbook), and it had been on my bucket list of places to eat. It was so good—I went twice in the span of three days.
What’s the coolest thing you learned in the kitchen this year? I got a lot of knife skill practice on my non-dominant hand (I had a climbing injury for a couple months)! That's probably not that cool, but now I can slice a deli of chives almost as quickly as my good hand.
What are you most excited to delve into in the kitchen next year? I'm making a lot of misos these days—with lots of interesting choices like purple sweet potatoes, peas, and various legumes. I'm excited to crack into them when they're ready.
If you could win a truck full of one item, what would it be? Yakumi pans. I would be the most organized human being in existence.
Andrew Janjigian is a former long-time test cook at Cook's Illustrated magazine. He is a breadhead who has, for more than 10 years, been teaching baking and pizza online and at places like King Arthur Baking Company and Maine's Kneading Conference. Before working at Cook's Illustrated, he was an organic chemist in the biotech industry and earned a master's degree in mycology. He's been mining his family Armenian recipes (and more) for Serious Eats since late 2020.
Serious Eats / Sabrina TanFavorite recipe developed this year for Serious Eats? My baguette! It’s been many years in the making, but the quality of my baguettes improved by leaps and bounds working on that.
What was the most memorable meal you had this year? We still aren’t eating out all that much, but we did have an amazing 9-course tasting meal for my wife’s birthday at one of our favorite Boston-area joints, Lynn’s Nightshade Noodle Bar.
What’s the coolest thing you learned in the kitchen this year? Hard to pick one thing! But maybe the upgrade to my baguette-steaming method in which you seal the container with a sheet of foil. It’s a simple trick, but it makes all the difference in the quality of the crust.
What are you most excited to delve into in the kitchen next year? I am writing a book next year for Ten Speed, Breaducation, on the fundamentals of bread baking, and I cannot wait to start working on it.
If you could win a truck full of one item, what would it be? Can you have a truckload of time? That is the one thing I need more of in order to get all of the many projects I want to do done.
Reem Kassis is a Palestinian writer whose work focuses on the intersection of food with culture, history, and politics. You can find some of her writings in The Wall Street Journal, The Washington Post and The New York Times. Her debut cookbook, The Palestinian Table (2017), won The Guild of Food Writers Award and Gourmand World Cookbook award, was nominated for a James Beard Award, was short-listed for the Andre Simon Award and the Edward Stanford Award, and was picked as one of NPR's best books of 2017. Her second cookbook is The Arabesque Table (2021).
Serious Eats / Sabrina TanFavorite recipe developed this year for Serious Eats? Mansaf.
What was the most memorable meal you had this year? Dinner at Kalaya in Philly when my parents came from Jerusalem for a visit.
What’s the coolest thing you learned in the kitchen this year? I made a lot of dumplings this year (Asian, Ukrainian, Armenian, etc.), so it’s been cool learning all the different doughs, shapes, and techniques.
What are you most excited to delve into in the kitchen next year? I just bought a vegetable chopper (those manual box shaped ones), and with a baby, it’s been life changing because I can chop large batches of things quickly and often with one hand only!
If you could win a truck full of one item, what would it be? Le Creuset pots and pans and everything else they sell!
Clarissa Wei is a freelance writer and video producer with over ten years experience. She graduated from New York University with a double major in journalism and politics. She has been a freelance writer and video producer since 2011, covering topics such as regional Chinese noodles, an epidemic of kidney disease linked to sugarcane fields in Nicaragua, and the Lakota Sioux's fight for food sovereignty.
Serious Eats / Sabrina TanFavorite recipe developed this year for Serious Eats? I was very pleased with my iteration of Taiwanese popcorn chicken with furu, which is a typical dish found at a lot of outdoor beer restaurants in Taipei. I've been obsessed with furu for the last year—smearing it liberally on bread, using it in salad dressings—so to be able to share it with the world was such a delight.
What was the most memorable meal you had this year? Dinner at JATAK in Copenhagen. I adored everything about it. The restaurant is by Chef Jonathan Tam, and his menu is a dreamy progression of seasonal dishes merging his Asian roots with local Scandinavian ingredients.
What’s the coolest thing you learned in the kitchen this year? How to make cheese foam (it's easier than you'd think!).
What are you most excited to delve into in the kitchen next year? Bulk meal planning. I currently live in a very small apartment in Taipei, but I'm planning on moving next year to a place with bigger square footage. The first thing I'm getting is a chest freezer so I can make freezable meals ahead of time.
If you could win a truck full of one item, what would it be? Hot Cheetos. I moved to East Asia in 2018 and after nearly five years away from the States, I find myself desperately craving American junk food.
Maureen Celestine is a photographer and food stylist who runs Worldly Treat, a blog dedicated creating quick, easy, flavorful, family-friendly meals found worldwide. She was raised in a family of six in Nigeria and has been cooking since the age of twelve. Maureen began photographing for Serious Eats in 2022.
Serious Eats / Sabrina TanWhat was the most memorable meal you had this year? The most memorable meal I had this year was a massive bowl of authentic tom yum soup served over sticky rice. It was so good I shed a tear. This brought back memories of my early college years.
What’s the coolest thing you learned in the kitchen this year? The coolest thing I learned in the kitchen this year is a money-saving hack. No more tossing out my hardened brown sugar; instead, I add marshmallow pieces in the jar with sugar to keep it moist. Who knew!
What are you most excited to delve into in the kitchen next year? I am most excited about getting a pasta maker to start experimenting with making pasta. I am equally stoked about making Nigerian Pap (Ogi, Akamu) from scratch using fermented corn.
If you could win a truck full of one item, what would it be? Quail (Coturnix or Bobwhite).
Mai Kakish is a photographer and food stylist who began shooting for Serious Eats in 2022. She runs Almond & Fig, a blog that is a memoir told through food. She cooks to remember the place she came from (Palestine) and to pass that connection on to her children.
Serious Eats / Sabrina TanFavorite photo taken this year for Serious Eats? Ka'ak al Quds.
What was the most memorable meal you had this year? It was at my parents' home on the outskirts of Jerusalem, this past summer. We had a musakhan feast (Palestinian taboon bread, slathered with olive oil, caramelized onions, sumac, and roasted chicken) served al fresco–style in my grandparents' garden and enjoyed with my family. We sipped on arak, ate, and laughed till it was too dark to clean up.
What’s the coolest thing you learned in the kitchen this year? How to make Palestinian ka'ak al quds and taboon bread. And while I was in Palestine, a visit to a local artisan in the village of Beit Sahour to learn all about arak spirits (a distilled Levantine spirit made of anise and grapes), one of my favorite drinks.
What are you most excited to delve into in the kitchen next year? Mastering my grandmother's recipes and learning the techniques behind old recipes like hand-rolling maftoul. Maftoul are pearls a little larger than couscous made out of whole wheat and eaten as a delicious Palestinian winter stew.
If you could win a truck full of one item, what would it be? Authentic Palestinian za’atar—a taste of my home so I can pass it out to everyone to try.
Ozoz Sokoh is a food explorer and exploration geologist focused on celebrating and documenting West African culinary heritage. She wrote her first piece for Serious Eats in 2020 and has also written for Food52, Basically by Bon Appétit, Parts Unknown, Al Jazeera, and more. Ozoz also runs Feast Afrique, a platform dedicated to West African culinary heritage. Her blog, Kitchen Butterfly, was the 2018 winner of the Saveur Best Food Blog reader's choice award for food culture.
Favorite recipe developed this year for Serious Eats? Curry-flavored Nigerian stock. Finally making it a recipe complete with proportions just how I like it.
What was the most memorable meal you had this year? A series of Nigerian eats at Afrobeat Kitchen in Toronto, for the opening of their new space. Back-to-back hits. When the small chops (a.k.a appetizers) started coming out, I had to pace myself because I knew there was dinner. From stunning tostones, to the perfect crusted suya wings, wonton goat meat pepper soup, delicious Jollof rice, and perfect dodo, with refreshing glasses of zobo and Vitamalt to complete things. Outstanding.
What’s the coolest thing you learned in the kitchen this year? Food bubbles aren't always spherical/round...just like other bubbles. Yeah, I know, I know. In my head, bubbles are round. But I know I've seen non-round ones. But yes, this is it for me.
What are you most excited to delve into in the kitchen next year? The Thermomix, if I get one. Otherwise, crafting the best brownie cookie I can.
If you could win a truck full of one item, what would it be? Homemade cookies and biscuits—of the Belgian Biskwikind, of the British kind, and everything in between.
Pailin Chongchitnant grew up cooking with her family in Southern Thailand. After receiving two degrees from the University of British Columbia in Nutritional Sciences and Home Economics Education, she graduated from Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in San Francisco. After working in professional kitchens, Chongchitnant launched her YouTube channel Pailin's Kitchen and in 2016 published Hot Thai Kitchen: Demystifying Thai Cuisine with Authentic Recipes to Make at Home. She co-hosts the Canadian cooking show One World Kitchen.
Serious Eats / SabrinaFavorite recipe developed this year for Serious Eats? Thai chile paste.
What was the most memorable meal you had this year? An Afghan meal at a restaurant called Zarak, in Vancouver.
What’s the coolest thing you learned in the kitchen this year? I learned that tapioca or corn starch is the trick to making creamy ice cream bars that involves no machine of any sort. This blew my mind, so I developed this recipe.
What are you most excited to delve into in the kitchen next year? I'd like to do some more Korean and Indian cooking next year.
If you could win a truck full of one item, what would it be? Lottery tickets.
Nik Sharma is a molecular biologist turned cookbook author (Season and The Flavor Equation) and food photographer who's been writing for Serious Eats since 2020. Nik left his career in biomedical research behind to pursue a career in cooking, food writing, and photography, in which he uses his background in biochemistry to understand flavor.
Serious Eats / Sabrina TanFavorite recipe developed this year for Serious Eats? It has to be between my science essay on brining beans and my recipe for vegan cardamom meringue cookies with strawberry compote. Both of these involved extensive experimentation and research, and I learned a lot in the process, which made it rewarding.
What was the most memorable meal you had this year? The best meal I ate this year was at Bacetti in Los Angeles. The focaccia, rigatoni all'amatriciana, and cacio e pepe with the strozzapretti are my go-tos, and so is their fico pizza with figs and walnuts.
What’s the coolest thing you learned in the kitchen this year? How to use my vacuum storage device to suck air out of the custard to make a flan. It reduces bubble formation in the flan during cooking.
What are you most excited to delve into in the kitchen next year? I'm looking forward to finally fiddling around with some molecular gastronomy ideas that have been on mind.
If you could win a truck full of one item, what would it be? A very cozy and comfortable bed so I can nap. I don't nap enough.
Yana Gilbuena, a Philippine-born chef, started the SALO Series to share the vibrant food culture of the Philippines with the world. In her American tour, Gilbuena hosted kamayan pop-up dinners in 50 states in 50 weeks, as well as across Canada, Mexico, Colombia, Australia, Europe, and the Philippines. At these meals, diners sit at banana leaf-covered tables and eat decolonized Filipino food with their hands.
Favorite recipe developed this year for Serious Eats? Definitely chicken inasal.
What was the most memorable meal you had this year? At the restaurant called King of Snake in Christchurch, NZ. Very well executed dishes and flavors that were on point.
What’s the coolest thing you learned in the kitchen this year? Natural yeasts and fermentation.
What are you most excited to delve into in the kitchen next year? I'd like to delve into Filipino baked goods and also different spices and sauces (not necessarily Filipino).
If you could win a truck full of one item, what would it be? Caviar and/or truffles!
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSerious Eats is extremely lucky to be able to work with a number of profoundly creative and talented photographers, designers, and illustrators. Not only do they bring a high degree of skill to the work they do, but many of them are impressive home cooks and stylists as well. The end result is a homepage and archive on our site that has never looked better.
Our team was asked to pick the images from the past year that stood out to them, and what follows are their selections. Just know that as you read our work, cook our recipes, and dig into the history of the site, there are a bevy of additional, gorgeous images and illustrations for you to find, and it's all thanks to these artists who manage to bring every piece of content to life with their work.
Palak PaneerSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezI keep dreaming of the green swirls in Amanda Suarez's photos of this recipe from Chetna Makan. I've always known saag paneer as a dish of paneer cheese in a creamy spinach sauce, but only this year learned that saag paneer is a bit of a misnomer and not really what one would find in India. That's because saag normally refers to a dish made with mustard greens, not spinach, and it isn't typically cooked with paneer (at least, that's the impression I've been left with through various conversations about it). Palak paneer, on the other hand, is the spinach-and-cheese dish, and Chetna's comes through so vibrantly in this photo; it's unlike any "saag paneer" I've ever had before. All reports from the SE staff who have cooked this recipe are that it's insanely good, so it's high on my list of ones to cook—and these photos make it really easy for my memory to not lose track of it. —Daniel Gritzer, senior culinary director
Nigerian Jollof RiceSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineMaureen Celestine shot each of our new Nigerian recipes published this year (which is a massive undertaking!) and delivered stunning photos each time. Her strong sense of color and immensely instructional step photos are always a pleasure to edit, but my jaw dropped when I saw her jollof rice images. The contrast of the blue dishes with the deep orange rice and the yellow table runner create such an inviting scene that I instantly knew this would become one of my favorite photos on Serious Eats. —Amanda Suarez, senior visual editor
Mixed Berry TrifleSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezI may be biased because I had a hand in making the trifle for the camera, but this photo is pure magic. Between its wobbly jelly, sweet fruit, and generous layers of crème légère and whipped cream, this dessert is just so irresistibly charming. Plus, it tastes divine. —Kristina Razon, editor
The Best Moules Marinières (Sailor-Style Mussels)Serious Eats / Qi AiI am incredibly lucky to be able to work with not just our talented Senior Visual Editor, Amanda Suarez, but a team of skilled freelance photographers who are reshooting some our most beloved (but older) recipes. And since part of my job is to review the work of the freelancers, every week I get a sneak peek of the visual splendor soon to be published on Serious Eats.
Having to pick just one image to highlight feels unfair, as all of our photographers do an incredible job and I would not weigh one against another. But it's true that one photo stands out for me; it's not necessarily better than any other, but it is my favorite. That image is Qi Ai's reshoot of The Best Moules Marinières (Sailor-Style Mussels). Eveything about the lead image sings, from the lighting and composition to the placement and props that were selected. And the food itself looks spectacularly well-prepared and delicious. It's a photo that made me go buy the ingredients and cook this myself. —Jake Dean, updates editor
A Vegetarian's Christmas Eve Pig RoastSerious Eats / Marla Cruz LinaresFor our last illustration of the year, Marla Cruz Linares created a magical scene full of music and laughter for the feature, A Vegetarian's Christmas Eve Pig Roast. I am obsessed with the energy of this illustration and would have loved to be invited to this Cuban Noche Buena Pig Roast in Miami. Marla captured the idea of the feature perfectly, and her composition and line work are so enticing. —Amanda Suarez
Bubbles! A Serious Eats Digital IssueSerious EatsI love, love, love all the visuals on the Bubbles! page. The way the bubbles float up, the way the light on the bread changes—it's beautiful and so well done. I'm mesmerized and could stare at it for hours! —Genevieve Yam, culinary editor
The Wok: A Serious Eats Digital IssueSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThe whole The Wok digital issue is such a triumph, both editorially and visually. I adore every single image in this issue, as well as all of the videos (the one of the wok being made is unreal!).
I'd also love to give a shoutout to all of the product photography Grace Kelly, our associate commerce editor, does! You can see a few recent stories she wrote and shot here, here, and here. Product photography is very tough and Grace has pushed the SE commerce team in such a positive direction photo-wise. It's incredible! - Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, commerce editor
Homemade French BaguettesSerious Eats / Andrew JanjigianI feel like I don't even need to explain this choice, just look at that crust! Not only did Andrew Janjijan develop this incredibly in-depth baguette recipe, but he also photographed it for our Bubbles! digital issue. This recipe has over 50 images (including 3 gifs!) which Andrew shot to help guide readers, and are some of the most successful process photos on the site. I'm a little sad because I will now be juding every baguette I see against the beautiful ones in this header photo and I know few—if any—will be a worthy comparison. —Amanda Suarez
We Tested 7 Water Filter Pitchers—Two Stood OutSerious Eats / Abigail ClarkinI was so impressed when our freelancer Abby Clarkin sent in her photos for our water filter pitchers review. The lighting! The blue watery backdrop! The overall aqua, underwater vibe! Water filter pitchers aren’t exactly the most photogenic of equipment, and she made them look near beautiful in all their watery glory. —Grace Kelly, associate commerce editor
Misen Roasting Pan ReviewSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezI can't stop thinking about the roast that Amanda shot for the Misen roasting pan review. After trying and failing many times to capture process and motion in phtoographs, I love how instructive and distinct each photo is and how beautifully they frame the pan in action. The roast is just a feast, perched on top of an overflowing abundance of aromatics and vegetables, making my mouth water every time I see it. There are a lot of spectacularly plated dishes that Amanda has shot this year, but these photos just beautifully capture what this pan is and what it does, and that's such a hard thing to do with this much purpose and clarity. —Jesse Raub, commerce writer
Can You Stop Beans From Making You Fart? We Put 17 Methods to the TestSerious Eats / Michelle KondrichWhile the photography on our site is always vibrant and beautiful, I absolutely love whenever we get the chance to commission an illustration. We've worked with a lot of talented illustrators, and it's incredible to see what their minds conjure up from just a short brief on the piece their art will be accompanying. This illustration from Michelle Kondrich for the beans investigation featured in our Bubbles! digital issue immediately grabbed my attention. I was fascinated with how much detail she included, from giving the books relevant (and hilarious!) names to including our website with a beans recipe in the image of the laptop. It's illustrations like this that, when combined with the words of our many marvellous writers, help bring a piece to life. —Yasmine Maggio, associate editor
Pastel de Atún (Mexican Tuna Cake)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezShamelessly including one of my own photos here! I shot this during one of my first production weeks working with Kristina in the test kitchen, and we had so much fun bringing this recipe to life! After learning the dish could be described as a "tuna fish birthday cake," we had a great time leaning into the levity of this beach picnic dish, and took a good half hour figuring out the best way to "decorate" the top of the cake. I love the way the orange and pink pop off the screen in this photo. —Amanda Suarez
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAs 2022 comes to a close, we wanted to take a moment to highlight some of the incredible stories we published on Serious Eats this year. Our staff, along with a wonderful group of contributors, make it possible for us to share thoughtful, fun, and informative stories with our readers—and we couldn't let the year come to an end without sharing some of our favorite pieces. Though it's tough to pick from so many excellent features, the stories below are the ones we enjoyed reading the most, and the ones we've continued to think about.
From China: The Future of the WokSerious Eats / Graeme KennedyThis essay was one of the most ambitious Serious Eats has ever commissioned, and I'm very proud of the final result. Writer Christopher St. Cavish brought so much thought and care to every element of the story, drawing on years of his prior work tracking hand-hammered woks in Shanghai and building on it with trips to other parts of China. The result is a mix of profile, memoir, and cultural and culinary reporting, all to produce a thoughtful snapshot of the past, present, and future of the wok in the country that created it. —Daniel Gritzer, senior culinary director
All About LabanehSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezI love Yasmine's feature on labaneh. It's informative and insightful, and she does a wonderful job weaving her own experience with the ingredient throughout the piece. —Amanda Suarez, senior visual editor
A Vegetarian's Christmas Eve Pig RoastSerious Eats / Marla Cruz LinaresWe've published many lovely features this year, but my favorite is from a new contributor, Vanessa Garcia. Her story about feeling personally compelled to revive her Cuban family’s cultural tradition of the Buena Noche (Christmas Eve) pig roast—despite being a vegetarian!—wasn’t just evocative and well-written, it dug deep into what the holidays meant for her. I was touched by how important it was that she continue the tradition for her own child, even if it ran contrary to how she prefers to eat, and that combination of personal sacrifice and cultural remembrance brought a tear to my eye. Like the Grinch, my small heart grew three sizes after reading it. —Jake Dean, updates editor
The Wok Shop's Tane Chan on Her Life and BusinessSerious Eats / Todd ColemanIt was such a joy to read Yasmine's profile of Tane Chan and her store, The Wok Shop, in our first digital issue, The Wok. Chan's enthusiasm and passion for woks comes through in her words and her puns. She hooks you right at the beginning, sharing her story about her childhood in New Mexico to her move to San Francisco and the opening of her first Chinaware store in 1969. It makes me endlessly happy to see that she's thriving in her element. Like Chan says, "Woks for all walks of life, okay?" —Kristina Razon, editor
Can You Stop Beans From Making You Fart? We Put 17 Methods to the TestSerious Eats / Michelle KondrichThis was such a great scientific deep-dive into beans and trapped gas! If you enjoy eating beans, something tells me you've looked into methods on how to effectively reduce your farts, like soaking beans, discarding the soaking water, or rinsing your cooked beans. But do any of those methods actually work? Dave Arnold partnered with the Harvard "Fart Squad" to find out once and for all. It's nerdy and fun—my favorite kind of Serious Eats story! —Genevieve Yam, culinary editor
We Tested 11 Air Fryers (and Cooked 30 Pounds of Potatoes) to Find the BestSerious Eats / Riddley Gemperlein-SchirmIt feels entirely too braggadocious to call my own piece my favorite feature of the year, but it was so much fun to test and write. Prior to my review, Serious Eats didn't have any air fryer content (just one recipe!), so it was great to form an opinion on a new-to-us piece of gear and help shape the sort of content we may do on air fryers in the future. My other favorite features from this year include this wok review, this comparison of Vitamix blenders, this review of whipping siphons, and this re-do we did of the best soda machines for our recent Bubbles! digital issue. —Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, commerce editor
Does Your Beer Glass Really Matter? We Consulted a Beer Expert to Find OutSerious Eats / Grace KellyLike Riddley, I feel all kinds of wrong highlighting my own work as my favorite feature of the year, but this piece was just so fun to research and write—especially since I got to chat with my husband’s beer-world hero! What with the rise of craft beer (and the ensuing beer drinking snobbery), it was fun to dive into whether or not a beer glass will make or break that $25 bottle of spontaneously fermented beer aged for two years on Montmorency cherries (hand-picked, in season, of course). The short answer is: the glass isn’t a big deal (unless you’re using a shaker pint glass, in which case, we gently advise you to use a wine glass or invest in a set of tulip glasses; it’s for the best). I loved the history and lore behind various beer glass styles, but also that, in the end, you should just drink from whatever makes you happy. And in my case, it’s a bierstiefel, a.k.a. a 1-liter boot-shaped glass that, if sipped from incorrectly, will leave you drenched in beer. While I'm only being slightly serious, it really is a fun glass to drink from, and certainly will earn you a few disapproving (or approving, depending on your crowd) glances. —Grace Kelly, associate commerce editor
Bloom Phase: How to Read the Bubbles In Your CoffeeSerious Eats / Ashley RodriguezNo matter how many coffee articles I read from Ashley Rodriguez, I'm always floored by how thoughtful she is when explaining tricky scientific processes. She can make even the drollest technical details about trapped CO2 feel personable, and this piece is such a great in-depth explainer about a very minute part of coffee brewing. It's one of the best articles about coffee that was written this year on any platform, and I think it deserves the spotlight (even if it is a conflict of interest to hype up the work of my partner!). —Jesse Raub, commerce writer
A Tale of Two Cream Teas: Why the British Are Still Arguing OverPhoto courtesy of The English Cream Tea Company, Graphic / Serious EatsWhen Samantha Priestley first pitched this piece, I knew our heavily opinionated audience would have a lot to say—and oh was I right! Many of you dear readers sounded off in the comments on Facebook and Instagram, debating over the "correct" way to assemble a cream tea. Who knew something as simple as eating a scone could bring about so much conflict? Samantha was able to take such a basic topic and trace its history back to the 11th century. I loved learning all about the lighthearted British controversy and its origins. I've yet to try comparing the methods and forming an opinion myself, but I will be sure to report back when I do! —Yasmine Maggio, associate editor
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezEvery year, Serious Eats publishes a slate of recipes which we think are exciting, informative, rigorously tested, and which expand on the work we’ve been doing for well over a decade now. But after we release our work into the universe, it’s up to you, the reader, to visit the site, cook those recipes, and tell us what you think.
This was the year that our popular annual feature, Starch Madness, focused on the humble-yet-mighty potato, and you responded enthusiastically to our bounty of spuds; in fact, our top recipe of the year was Crispy Baked Potato Wedges. We also pivoted toward publishing more cuisine guides this year, with a few of our Nigerian recipes easily making it on to this list. The most popular recipes from this year are a clear representation of what we (and hopefully you!) think makes Serious Eats so great—cultural representation, science-backed technique, and no small amount of culinary obsessiveness. Also: lots and lots and lots of potatoes. So without further ado, here are the recipes published in 2022 that you, our dear readers, decided to click on and read the most.
Crispy Baked Potato WedgesSerious Eats / Vicky WasikSasha Marx's recipe for oven fries that are crunchy on the outside and fluffy on the inside was our top recipe of the year, garnering rave reviews. One user commented, "These were great and are what they purport to be." They were also a part of Starch Madness 2022, and—fun fact—were one of the recipes the team hoped would lose as we all filled out our own brackets. We know it's great, you know it's great, but in the battle between french fries and wedges, how can you root against fries? Starch madness indeed!
TartifletteSerious Eats / Vicky WasikThis gooey, creamy baked casserole from Daniel Gritzer is French mountain food at its finest. It's potatoes, bacon, cheese, and onions, browned until golden in a cast iron skillet. What more can we say?
Nigerian Egusi SoupSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineContributor Ozoz Sokoh's recipe for creamy, nutty egusi soup was a part of our Nigerian recipe package, and one of the best recipes we published in 2022. Egusi soup is a staple in homes and bukas, or street food stalls, across Nigeria and in many parts of West Africa. The soup takes its name from egusi, or agushi―the seeds that both thicken and flavor it. Egusi soup typically features meat (such as beef, smoked poultry, goat, cow skin, and offal) and seafood (smoked dried fish or stockfish), as well as awara (Nigerian tofu), mushrooms, and greens.
Lowcountry Stew ChickenSerious Eats / Amanda Suarez"Tell a person you want stew chicken and you'll likely get a different dish depending on who you're talking to," writes contributor Amethyst Ganaway. "That's because there are stew chicken dishes across the African diaspora." Her version is a South Carolina classic, featuring chicken legs (chosen for their moistness and tenderness) in a deeply flavored, light-bodied sauce seasoned with sage, oregano, and smoked paprika.
Patates Lemonates (Greek Lemon Potatoes)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIt's rare to find a side dish that upstages the main course it's served with, but that's certainly the case with this recipe from Sasha. Commonly served as an accompaniment to roasted chicken, patates lemonates take advantage of the flavor-absorbing qualities of potatoes to imbue them with a burst of citrus acidity rather than just fat and woodsy herbs. Adding a tablespoon of lemon juice to the finished dish counterbalances the flavor of cooked lemon against the bright, acid pop of its fresh juice.
Ham and Bean SoupSerious Eats / Liz VoltzA rich and hearty soup that is undeniably satisfying, contributor Arlyn Osborne's recipe uses a combination of whole and puréed navy beans and pairs them with meaty, smoked ham hocks. The resulting ham and bean soup is layered with flavor and texture—a perfect fit for cold, dark, or even just rainy days and nights.
Rösti (Swiss Potato Cake)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikSerious Eats' love of not just the potato, but the potato pancake, was established many years ago. So it's almost shocking that we didn't develop a recipe for rösti, the famed Swiss-German potato cake, until this year. Daniel's recipe dials up the technique by par-boiling, chilling, and then shredding Yukon Gold potatoes, producing the characteristically thick pancake withabsolutely perfect texture and flavor.
Lavash TrianglesSerious Eats / Andrew JanjigianLavash triangles are "something of a cross between boreks—the Armenian baked phyllo-wrapped crispy turnovers—and samosas, the crunchy, fried South Asian dumplings stuffed with savory fillings," writes contributor Andrew Janjigian. His version (adapted from the Amenian cookbook Lavash) envelops a vegan mashed bean paste in a delicate, crunchy shell which is baked, not fried. He says they've become a staple in his home, and perhaps they will in yours as well!
Nigerian Jollof RiceSerious Eats / Maureen CelestineWhile Ozoz's recipe for jollof rice is specifically a Nigerian version, her recipe's headnote also digs into the roots of the dish's prominence across West Africa, as well as the ways in which it manifests in the United States (such as New Orleans jambalaya). Even if this isn't the version of jollof rice you love or grew up with, it is fabulous, and one of our best recipes of the year.
Creamy Braised Pork and Bean Stew With Cinnamon, Fennel, and OnionSerious Eats / Debbie WeeThis recipe from contributor Nik Sharma wasn’t just one of our top recipes of the year, but it also directly connects to our most popular technique of the year, Brining Beans With Baking Soda: An Investigation. Nik’s creamy, savory stew is science-informed, packed with flavor, and a great choice for a chilly night.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAt the start of this year, the Serious Eats team came out swinging―developing a slew of potato recipes for Starch Madness (surprise surprise, French fries won!). Beyond testing recipes for tartiflette and aloo tikki, our team continued to develop and test as the year progressed, bringing to life some of what have become staff favorites. Along the way, our contributors delivered the goods―sharing Nigerian, Filipino, and Mexican recipes, to name a few. The combined efforts of our staff and contributors were recognized by IACP when Serious Eats won the 2022 award for Best Culinary Website.
We loved each and every recipe we published this year, but, like every year, our staff was presented with a significant challenge: picking just one that was their favorite. Each member shared the recipe that resonated with them the most, whether they made it at home or had their first taste of it in the studio kitchen. Below, you’ll find the recipes that members of our staff raved about, turning to over and over again this year.
Msakhan (Palestinian Flatbreads With Onion, Sumac, and Spiced Roast Chicken)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikPicking a single favorite recipe of the year is always an impossible task, but I tend to gravitate to ones I had the pleasure to cook myself—I think that direct connection leaves me with the most lasting impressions of the dish. And through that lens, Reem Kassis's msakhan still resonates over the many months that have passed since I made it. The onions that are spread on top of the tender flatbreads are silky and sweet, tangy from sumac and warm from spices. The chicken brings all the comfort of any roast chicken, but with a more complex flavor, thanks to its rub of spices and olive oil, while toasted nuts add richness and depth. It's a full meal all in one, and such a pleasure to eat. —Daniel Gritzer, senior culinary editor
Sole MeunièreSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezOne of the best parts of my job is getting to try all the amazing dishes our editors cook in the test kitchens for shoots. The sizzling sound of Daniel's lemon-brown butter sauce for his sole meunière recipe has been stuck in my head all year. This simple, incredibly delicious dish is easily my favorite meal on set in 2022. —Amanda Suarez, senior visual editor
Moo Palo (Thai Pork Belly Stew With Eggs)Serious Eats / Vicky WasikI had the pleasure of being present at Derek's shoot day for his trio of Thai soups. While I had a blast sipping and slurping on tom yam pla and tom kha gai, his recipe for moo palo was the one I kept going back to. I couldn't stop myself from continually dipping into the pot to fish out tender morsels of fatty pork belly and broth-infused soft boiled eggs. I've since made this soupy stew at home and can attest that this recipe is a keeper. —Kristina Razon, editor
Chinese Cold Noodle Salad With Sesame DressingSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezGrowing up in NYC, Chinese takeout played a large role in our eating lives, and my mom’s favorite dish was (and still is) sesame noodles. The problem is that sesame noodles are easy for even a reliable restaurant to screw up—the wheat noodle base is easy to overcook, the sauce is frequently underseasoned, and sometimes it’s made with peanut butter instead of Chinese sesame paste (which, admittedly, I’m still kinda into). So when we published Lucas Sin’s recipe for this classic dish and it not only captured the spirit of my childhood memories, but actually improved upon them, I knew we had a keeper. I’ve made this recipe multiple times this year, in every season, and it never disappoints. -Jake Dean, updates editor
Cheese Foam TeaSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezI'm a bubble tea fanatic and was so thrilled when we published Clarissa Wei's cheese foam tea recipe. Once you top your bubble tea with creamy, tangy cheese foam, you'll never go back. I'm excited to make my own cheese foam at home with Clarissa's streamlined recipe. And yes, I will be making tapioca pearls to go in my tea! —Genevieve Yam, culinary editor
Vegetable BiryaniSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezI spent a large part of my childhood in India (and Sri Lanka), and biryani is one of my favorite things to eat. Vegetable biryani takes less time than meat biryani and is therefore what I usually make, as I always seem to just never have quite enough hours in the day to do everything I need to. This recipe—which takes just 20 minutes of prep—is pretty perfect: the caramelized onions, the bloomed spices, the cashews, the rosewater. If you've never made biryani before, give it a try. —Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, commerce editor
Ganach Lupia (Armenian Braised Green Beans)Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianThis is a warming, hearty dish that tucks green beans in a stewy mixture of fragrant, fatty lamb and bright, jammy tomatoes. I made it once in the fading heat of summer (a somewhat regrettable decision on a hot day in a tiny apartment), but now, as winter's chill slouches closer, it's the perfect time to fire up the oven and braise—and this is going to be my inaugural dish to do it. And while I love lamb, Andrew notes that you can swap in beef short ribs if you so choose. —Grace Kelly, associate commerce editor
Gâteau BasqueSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis Thanksgiving, my partner decided we should do a smattering of dishes from all across France instead of the usual turkey fare, and Kristina's gâteau Basque recipe absolutely delivered for our dessert. I ate three pieces after our meal and scrambled downstairs the next morning to have another slice for breakfast. I'm a sucker for a dessert that's sweet, rich, and tart, and it was incredible to see how well it all came together (even with our subbed-in cranberries instead of jam, just to keep our day somewhat on theme). The crust is unlike any other dessert, and even though we polished it off immediately, I keep hoping another might show up on our counter, magically. —Jesse Raub, commerce writer
Pay De Queso (Mexican Cheese Pie)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezHaving never heard of pay de queso, it looked unassuming when I first encountered it in the studio kitchen. But from the moment I took my first bite, I immediately wanted more. The Mexican cheese pie has a similar consistency to cheesecake, but with a subtle sweetness and a distinct tanginess—thanks to a bit of queso fresco—that keeps you coming back for more. I didn't think I could fall any more in love with it until I tried it with a drizzle of dulce de leche. I haven't stopped raving about it since! —Yasmine Maggio, associate editor
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMy mom has a soft spot for packaged baked goods. Growing up, a trip to the grocery store wasn’t complete without picking up a box of Entenmann’s chocolate chip cookies or Little Bites fudge brownies. These days, her kitchen counter is still littered with sweets, from Costco rugelach to Stop & Shop muffins. It was during one of my trips home that I came across individually wrapped madeleines from Costco.
Although its true origins remain unclear to this day, these petite, shell-shaped cakes are associated with the town of Commercy, located in the Lorraine region in northeastern France, and have been immortalized in Marcel Proust’s novel In Search of Lost Time, in which Proust recounts a childhood memory of dipping a madeleine in his tea.
Curious, I bit into one and found that the fluted cake was a poor replica of the real thing, with an off-putting, squishy texture and a lackluster flavor to boot. Freshly baked madeleines, still warm from the oven, should have whisper thin, crisp exteriors, light-yet-buttery centers, and that signature bump (often called “the hump”) sitting proudly on top. When paired with a cup of tea, you have the solid makings of a late afternoon snack.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezMadeleines are extremely versatile―the batter can be flavored with nuts, cocoa powder, warm spices, citrus zest, herbs, and extracts. Once baked, they can be glazed, filled, or served up plain. For my recipe, I kept it simple, relying on the sugar and butter to provide the flavor and aroma of the madeleines. If you have it, I recommend using quality butter, like a European-style one, for a richer flavor. You can also play around with adding fresh lemon or orange zest and vanilla or almond extract for another layer of flavor.
You may notice that these cakes come together rather differently than other recipes you’ll find online. Since madeleines are a form of sponge cake, they rely on the power of eggs and a little baking powder to rise. I ran side-by-side tests, making madeleines following the more traditional genoise cake method―whipping eggs and sugar into a stable foam, then folding in the dry ingredients, followed by melted butter―and a unconventional method I picked up from a New York Times recipe that calls for whisking the dry ingredients together, including the sugar, followed by the eggs and butter. I discovered that the results were nearly identical, but I preferred the latter method, which I call for below, since it involves less work and doesn’t require a stand mixer. The batter goes into the refrigerator to chill for four hours, which helps hydrate the ingredients and lets the flavors meld.
To bake the madeleines, I grease a 12-cup nonstick madeleine pan with melted butter (you can also use cooking spray), then use a 1-tablespoon cookie scoop to portion out the batter. It takes a bit of trial and error to make sure each cup is filled with just the right amount, since overfilling the cup—even by a smidge—diminishes the hump. If you want to be precise, you can also use a scale when dividing up the batter, which I like to do to ensure the most success.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe madeleines first go in the oven at a higher temperature of 425°F to encourage an initial rise, which I’ve found contributes to larger humps, before reducing the temperature to 400°F for the rest of the bake. After I pull them from the oven, I immediately turn them out of the pan onto a wire rack to cool, since letting them cool even slightly in the pan increases stickage. (If any of the madeleines refuse to budge, use a small offset spatula to help slide them out.) The magic of a freshly baked madeleine can be especially fleeting, so you won’t want to wait too long before helping yourself to one (or three!) next to a cup of tea—in the style of Proust, of course.
In a medium bowl, thoroughly whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt, about 30 seconds. Add eggs and vanilla extract, if using, and whisk until a thick batter forms, about 30 seconds. Add butter and whisk until fully incorporated and batter is smooth and slightly shiny, about 1 minute. Cover bowl with plastic wrap (or transfer to an airtight container) and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 2 days.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAdjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). Using a pastry brush, grease a 12-cup nonstick madeleine pan with melted butter. Using a 1-tablespoon cookie scoop or measuring spoon, add 20g (slightly more than 1 tablespoon) of batter into the center of each cup. The batter will spread as it bakes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBake madeleines for 3 minutes then reduce oven temperature to 400°F (205°C). Continue to bake until madeleines are domed in the center and golden brown around the edges, about 8 minutes.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezRemove madeleines from oven and immediately invert the hot pan over a wire rack, gently rapping the pan to release the madeleines. (Letting the madeleines cool even slightly in the pan will make it difficult to remove them from the pan.) Flip madeleines over so that the shell pattern is on the bottom and let cool slightly. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipment12-cup nonstick madeleine pan, 1-tablespoon cookie scoop or measuring spoon, digital scale, wire rack
NoteYou can flavor the madeleines with almond extract and/or 1 to 2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon or orange zest.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe batter can be prepared ahead of time and refrigerated for up to 2 days.
Madeleines are best enjoyed on the same day they’re baked.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianLike many, I’m a big fan of ‘njuda, the funky, spicy and tangy spreadable salume that comes from the southern Italian region of Calabria. I keep a container of it in my fridge constantly, to use in pasta sauces, as a topping for pizza, or simply to spread on a hunk of crusty bread as a snack. Not that long ago, ‘njuda was not known to many here in North America (myself included) and hard to come by in stores. But nowadays, many people are familiar with the joys of the stuff (perhaps thanks in part to Elazar Sontag’s excellent Serious Eats Guide to ‘Nduja, which you should read right now if you haven’t already). And the sausage is more and more available in stores, though it still seems to be limited to specialty stores and isn’t available in most supermarkets, even those in big cities like mine.
Which is why I wondered if it might be possible to make a sort of faux ‘njuda, or ‘fauxduja’ as I like to call it, using other cured Italian pork products, some seasonings to give it the proper heat, appearance, and tang, and a food processor to give it the proper spreadable consistency. Spoiler alert: It is!
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianHere’s how I landed on my formula. I looked for a mild-flavored, all-pork, cured salume that was already on the softer side. I didn’t want one that already had a lot of flavor of its own, since, unlike with other salami, spices like fennel or oregano are never used in ‘nduja. And in any case, I’d be adding the flavor separately. And I wanted a softer one to begin with, so it wouldn’t require the addition of too much extra liquid and/or too much processing to achieve the right consistency. In the end, I went with Genoa salami, one that had some give to it when squeezed. Because ‘nduja is generally a coarse-textured sausage (in part because it is made from several pork cuts of varying textures and fat content), I combined the salami with a smaller amount of firmer pancetta, which didn’t break down as quickly as the salami.
To give the fauxduja the right fiery-sweet chile heat and blazing red color, I used a combination of peppers: ground sweet paprika for sweetness, oil-cured Calabrian hot peppers (the same ones used in the real deal) for heat and color, and a single fresh red Fresno pepper, for another boost of color, flavor, and heat.
Unlike with most salami, which cure at low temperatures for weeks or months, ‘nduja is cured in a matter of hours and at high temperatures. The fermentation that takes place under these conditions gives the sausage a distinctive tang, mainly provided by lactic acid, the same acid produced in the fermentation of milk into yogurt, buttermilk, or sour cream. While I tried adding some of these soured milk products to mimic that flavor, they added more unwelcome moisture to the mix and not enough tang. Instead, I switched to dried buttermilk powder (used in baking when buttermilk itself is unavailable), a concentrated form of lactic acid with zero moisture.
Finally, I used the food processor conservatively, in order to avoid overprocessing the mixture and ending up with a too-smooth paste. Once the texture got close, I adjusted the heat with more Calabrian peppers and the consistency with olive oil as needed and then stopped processing before the tiny bits of red pepper were too small to see.
And that’s it. It comes together in a flash, and keeps for more than a week in the fridge (by which time it’s likely to be used up and in need of remaking anyway). Would my faux ‘nduja fool a Calabrian into thinking it is the real thing, or prevent their anger that anyone attempted to pull a fast one in the first place? Probably not. But it still gets close enough that it will work just fine when it is otherwise unavailable (and there are no Calabrians around). In fact, when I say I keep ‘njuda in the fridge at all times, it’s usually fauxduja in there.
Place salami, pancetta, buttermilk powder, paprika, Fresno pepper, 2 Calabrian peppers, and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade and process until a semi-smooth paste forms, 15 to 30 seconds, scraping down sides of processor as needed (paste should be even, but red pepper pieces should remain clearly visible.) Taste for heat and add additional Calabrian peppers if desired. If needed, add olive oil 1 teaspoon at a time and pulse until mixture reaches a just-spreadable consistency.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianTransfer to a container and refrigerate until firm, at least two hours. Serve or use as desired.
Serious Eats / Andrew JanjigianSpecial EquipmentFood processor
NotesLook for a Genoa salami with a soft consistency (you should be able to compress it easily with your fingertip).
If Calabrian hot peppers are unavailable, add cayenne pepper, 1/8 teaspoon at a time, until the desired heat level is achieved.
Make-Ahead and StorageFaux 'nduja can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 10 days.
Serious Eats / Marla Cruz LinaresI called the slaughterhouse and they told me the pig would be ready in time for Christmas. My stomach turned a bit, the first of many turns until Christmas Eve. I can imagine the pig already: cute little snout, bristling, a regular Peppa. I shake the thoughts from my head. ‘Tis the season, after all, not of the sacrificial lamb, but of the sacrificial cochinito. Because Noche Buena is upon us—even me, the vegetarian.
As a kid, I used to count the sleeps until Noche Buena as early as summer. The 24th of December was my lighthouse, shining bright at the end of the calendar’s long, twelve-month crossing. The date held so much promise. It was when the whole family gathered to tell stories—no matter where we were, we came together. My exiled parents and grandparents talked about Cuba and carved her out before us, bringing Havana to us even when we could not go to her. It has always been a symbol of refuge for me, of everything my parents lost fleeing their homeland, and everything they gained when they reached the U.S. At the center of all of it, there was a tradition the family carried over: the Cuban pig roast.
Noche Buena literally translates into “good night,” and for Cubans and other cultures, like Mexicans and Filipinos, it’s what we call Christmas Eve. Whereas many cultures place the celebration emphasis on Christmas day itself—the day of Jesus’ birth—we’re all about the pre-game. Noche Buena is, in essence, that last hurrah before the baby comes.
Growing up Cuban, Christmas Eve called for lechón (suckling pig), which meant staying up on Christmas Eve’s-Eve to prep the pig. My dad would sit at the counter, marinating, elbows deep in Cuban adobo and mojo, which included garlic, oil, sour orange, cumin, pepper, and bay leaves. The stubborn smell of the sweet, tangy marinade lasted for days on my dad’s fingertips and on our countertops. But it was worth it, because once that mojo hit the heat, its scent wafted through the house and the patio, from one yard to another, enveloping us in a warm blanket.
The roasting always started early on December 24th. The pig was mounted onto La Caja China—“The Chinese Box”—a wood and metal box with charcoal at the top, which slow-roasts the pig. This tradition, most agree, comes from Chinese migrant workers in Cuba, which eventually made its way to my backyard in Miami, Florida.
In the 1980’s, my dad would take turns with my uncle, who would take turns with his dad, who we’d all nicknamed “Carne Puerco” (Pork Meat), who had a belly that matched his moniker. It was practically all he ate, putting it on everything as if it were salt and pepper.
That pig roast was a playground and a field of learning. I learned to play dominoes around it, and to dance and play the guiro (though neither very well). I breathed in Miami winter air, crisp and fresh, as I ran around el patio and played basketball with my cousins on a makeshift court. The carefully coiffed bows my mom set on my sister’s head and mine unfurled into loose curls as the excitement of the day ensued. The sound of Cuban Spanish danced all around us as the skin of the pig became toasty and crisp like candy. It was pure bliss.
Until I turned twelve.
One day at school, in the middle of the year, we had a substitute teacher who played a documentary for us on factory farming. The images of chickens crammed into crates (unable to move, let alone roam), shackled cows, the assembly line of animals splayed open at the end of the line—it all made my stomach sink into a queasy mess, and I felt as if I could never eat an animal again. I came home and told my mom I was going to become a vegetarian. She thought it was a phase. What kind of Cuban would become a vegetarian? But here I am, 39 years later, still going strong.
I might have become a vegetarian anyway, factory farming documentary or not. If you were watching me closely, you could see it coming. From a very early age, I avoided meat. Burgers were once cute little cows, I remember thinking. The same applied to pork. Every year, the morning before Noche Buena, my dad would go choose the pig at the matadero, or slaughterhouse. My sister loved to go with him, always racing to lace up her sneakers and run out the door. When they got there, she’d point with glee, shouting: “That one!” My dad used to chuckle about it when he got home; I, on the other hand, never went. It was too sad to look a pig you were about to eat in the eyes.
Slowly, the family tradition died. Not as a result of my vegetarianism, but because of my parents’ divorce. Years later, my dad—the real down-home-Cuban in the family, the “Cubiche”—passed away, and with him, the last remnants of the pig roast.
My sister and I went off to college, pursuing higher (and higher) education. We moved around the country from New York to Los Angeles, traveled, dated, sunk, swam and succeeded—all the things you hope to do in your twenties and early thirties. We assimilated, to a certain degree, though we always came home for Christmas. Still, the Noche Buenas weren’t the same—quiet, with no kids underfoot. Our careers had delayed family plans, and we were well into our thirties when we got married.
Those adulthood Noche Buenas consisted mostly of lomo, or pork shoulder, instead of the whole pig; others were potlucks. My grandfather’s Spanish traditions still managed to make it to the table—strong Iberian flavors like Serrano ham, perfectly textured Manchego cheese, crispy fried garbanzos, olives, and European nougat, or turrón, for dessert, which always left a little almond oil on your hands for licking after eating. And, of course, endless amounts of red wine to go around. But the sound and scent was different, and the thing I missed most were the stories my dad told about his friends—kids with names like“Pirata” running around Miami in the 60’s, barefoot refugees in the sand, chasing lighthouses, reaching for more. I missed those tales, long and short, and some of the best jokes in the world, moving across the lawn to meet the songs you’d known forever since the first time you twirled in the womb. The lomito Noche Buenas that came in our 30’s were “ito”—small.
But, when I was 38 years old, my husband and I welcomed our first baby. And I couldn’t shake the fear that my son would grow up not knowing what a real Noche Buena was like. I kept thinking, What are we doing? Where are our roots? By December of that year, I’d turned into a lion, roaring: Bring back the pig roast! Bring back the pig roast!
So, despite my commitment to being a vegetarian, I chose to take the baton—in the spirit of my father, and my early immigrant refugee family—and I gave Noche Buena the honor and upgrade it deserved. On my son’s first year around the sun, I opened the doors to my house on Christmas Eve and invited my whole family in again. I sent out “Save the Dates” early (“NOCHE BUENA, people, it’s back!”); I invited neighbors and friends and actors I’d been working with on a play about Cuba that had taken Miami by storm. Everyone who had found a place in my heart got an invitation.
And then, I got stuck. I’d forgotten how to do it. Where do you get the pig again? How do you actually cook it? How long?
I had my personal assistant investigate where to find a pig (my parents didn’t have assistants, needless to say), and she learned that the same matadero my dad had gone to was still around (!), so that's where I went. By December 23rd, I had a whole pig inside my house—dead, pink, and ready to roast. It was big enough to feed 100 people. And I had no idea what to do with it.
I called my mom, who called a friend who had come from Cuba more recently than us. When he came over, he asked for a hammer and some tools, and he used his hands to break the pig open, the sound of cracking bones bouncing off my deck. He showed us, once again, how to get in there, and he talked about how they dreamed about this kind of pig in Cuba today, where the regime had taken everything from human rights to basic necessities, like food. Despite tradition, the Cuban revolution had abolished Christmas in the early years, and even when it made its way back, you had to fight for a pig like this. I looked around, listened, and felt a swelling of pride; my little refugee family had come a long way.
As I heard the ribs crack, my vegetarian heart cracked a little, too. But my Cuban heart sang and drowned the veggie part out. Because there we all were again, with drinks in hand, telling stories while my sister’s kids ran around and my first child waddled at my feet. Before we knew it, the pig was face down in the middle of my living room, all of us marinating it. I was afraid our kids would be scared, but they didn’t even flinch—Neanderthals, all of them. Or maybe the Cuban in them made this seem like the most natural thing in the world.
The next morning, bright and early, my step-dad arrived at my door. It was Christmas Eve and he was ready for his post at La Caja China. For hours and hours, that pig cooked. My Uruguayan husband, who was used to asados (a different kind of roast), helped turn the pig, and the stories came back. The door stayed open all day and night, and people came and went—just like the old days. That’s when it all came flooding back: the pure joy of being Cuban and the beauty of my roots, re-rooted in this country, which had its own complexities but had welcomed us with open arms and allowed us to grow. It hadn’t always been easy and the road was never straight, but here we were, old and new. I couldn’t think of anything better. My physical body may be vegetarian, but my Cuban heart is carnivorous.
If you're not hosting a holiday party or dinner at your place this year, congrats! You've managed to save yourself a lot of stress during an already stressful time of year. While you won't have that responsibility to burden you, you might find yourself with the smaller task of bringing a dessert to whatever gathering you're attending. In such a case, desserts that can be made ahead of time and are easily transportable are always the first we'll turn to. Having the option to bake something a day or two in advance—or at least prep the batter early and make it the day of—will keep you from scrambling last minute or giving in to a grocery store cake or pie. From a host of Christmas cookies to a classic yule log and a standout Mexican cheesecake, these are our favorite holiday desserts that you can make in advance and still blow everyone away with.
Christmas CookiesVicky WasikFor something easily transportable and make-ahead, cookies are a no-brainer. From crisp gingerbread to zesty lemon-ginger sandwich cookies and chocolate-dipped coconut macaroons, we've got plenty of options to choose from.
Bibingka (Filipino Rice Cake)Rezel KealohaA coconut-flavored, banana-leaf scented rice cake topped with caramelized coconut strips, Bibingka and Christmas go hand-in-hand in the Philippines. The batter can be prepared in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to five days.
Classic Chocolate Yule LogOur classic yule log comes together with a light and tender chocolate roulade that's covered in ganache and meringue mushrooms. If you're filling the cake with whipped cream, it can be refrigerated up to 36 hours and then served at room temperature. If you opt for buttercream or frosting, the cake can be kept at a cool room temperature for up to 36 hours.
Old-Fashioned Jelly RollVicky WasikJelly rolls are a year-round classic because of their lightness and versatility, but their beautiful spirals lend an especially festive touch to the holiday table. Unfrosted, the cake will keep for about 24 hours at room temperature; if frosted with whipped cream, it will need to be covered, refrigerated for up to 24 hours, and then set out to room temperature about an hour before serving.
Slow and Easy PanettoneOf all the holiday breads that pop-up around this time of year, panettone is the star thanks to its boozy, sweet, and ubiquitous flavors. This recipe has a great shelf life, so you can easily make it a day or two ahead of time.
Epic New York CheesecakeEvery bite of this cheesecake is rich and creamy, with a fresh and tangy flavor. In an airtight container, the batter can be refrigerated up to one week; bring the cold batter to room temperature before baking. If you're inclined to serve this dessert with a fruity syrup or sauce, bring it with you in a separate container, then top off each slice before dishing out.
Ginger Spice BrowniesLiz VoltzBrownies are a great make-ahead option, and these rich, fudgy ones are sure to blow everyone away. Covered with sparkling strands of crystallized ginger, each bite has just the right amount of chew. What makes them particularly exceptional, though, is a delicate blend of fragrant spices that evoke the flavors of wintertime.
Pay De Queso (Mexican Cheese Pie)Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPay de queso, or cheese pie, is a smooth, creamy, and not overly sweet cheese-based pie with a cookie crust. It’s pretty much the Mexican version of New York cheesecake. Wrapped in plastic, pay de queso can be refrigerated for up to three days and is best served chilled, with a dollop of strawberry jam or a drizzle of dulce de leche or cajeta.
Classic Pecan PieVicky WasikHoney, brown sugar, vanilla, and roasted nuts give this pie its deep, rich flavor and lots of crunch. Whip this up the night before your festivities and allow it to sit at room temperature until you're ready to roll.
Maple Angel Food CakeSweetened with maple sugar, this airy angel food cake has a mellow flavor that's not too sweet. When ready to serve, add a drizzle of chocolate ganache for an extra special touch.
Mixed Berry TrifleSerious Eats / Amanda SuarezThis British classic is a decadent combination of wobbly fruit jelly, genoise sponge cake, crème légère, and whipped cream built in a sharing-size glass bowl. It can be assembled 24 hours in advance with the whipped cream, or up to 48 hours in advance without the whipped cream, which can be added before serving.
Pistachio CakeVicky Wasik.Using good-quality pistachio oil in an olive oil cake recipe makes for a quick and easy cake that's brimming with nutty aroma and flavor. Feel free to make the cake two or three days ahead of time, leave it out at a cool room temperature, then frost the day-of.
CannoliVicky WasikThese cannoli are rich and light, creamy and crunchy—a study in contrast if there ever was one. Make the filling and the shells a few days ahead of time, then fill them right before it's time for dessert.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI can count on one hand the number of times I’ve made a croquembouche―the celebration cake in France that’s served at weddings, baptisms, and first communions. I made my first croquembouche (which literally translates as “crunch in mouth”) back in culinary school for a demonstration to promote recipes from pastry chef Joanne Chang’s cookbook Flour, Too. Her croquembouche was a towering masterpiece of caramel-covered cream puffs surrounded by golden threads of spun sugar. Although the tall, pointed cone shape is most popular (and the one I adhere to), the puffs can be arranged to resemble churches, wishing wells, and even baby carriages, depending on the occasion. Croquembouches can also be decorated with sugar-coated almonds, sugar flowers, candied fruit, nougatine (caramel mixed with toasted nuts), and macarons, not to mention whatever other decorative flights of fancy one might have for a dessert whose appeal is largely about its presentation.
My later croquembouches, all of which I assembled while developing this recipe, couldn’t compare; one was much too short (I miscounted the number of puffs in my initial layers) while another was so wonky that it looked like it came out of a Dr. Seuss book. The croquembouche you see here was my most recent and one that I’m very proud of. That’s because croquembouche is one of the more difficult pastries to make at home, thanks to its multiple components and the time needed to get it all done. I share a few techniques that make the process as seamless as possible but I want to stress that, in this case, practice makes perfect. This is all to say that your first croquembouche may not look quite like the one pictured here, but it’ll be delicious nonetheless.
Making the Cream PuffsA croquembouche relies on puffs―a lot of them―made from pâte à choux, which is a cooked paste of flour, butter, water and/or milk, and eggs. My recipe calls for one batch of choux pastry made with equal parts water and milk, which contributes to a crisp well-browned exterior. I also add a small amount of sugar to the choux to lightly sweeten it. When testing this recipe, I mostly played around with the dimensions of the puffs to figure out which size led to a stronger, more aesthetically-pleasing structure. Puffs that were with a template that was one-and-a-half inches in diameter were much too large, giving me a squatter croquembouche that wasn’t very impressive. Meanwhile, puffs that were just an inch round barely held any filling, making for a croquembouche that was all crunch. I found that one-and-a-quarter–inch puffs were the ideal size, striking a good balance between creamy filling and crunchy candy shell. I know that a quarter-inch difference may not seem like much, but when dealing with a towering construction like this, it adds up.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPiping the choux for a croquembouche requires a bit of advance planning. Usually when I pipe puffs, I’ll freehand it but in the case of a croquembouche, you shouldn’t wing it. Better is to make a template for your puffs by drawing circles on parchment paper beforehand. This extra step yields puffs that are more uniform in size, making them easier to stack. One batch of choux makes 50 puffs, enough for 12 servings (about four puffs per person).
Once they’re all piped, I like to dust the puffs with powdered sugar. Doing so reduces the chance of cracks and splits and lends to even color development. Once the puffs are baked, I make a small hole in the bottom of each before sliding them back into a turned-off, but still hot, oven with the door cracked open. This helps dry out the puffs as much as possible so that they retain their crunch. If you decide to bake the puffs ahead of time, you can freeze them for up to a month then refresh them in a warm oven until crisp.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI opt for filling the puffs with crème légère, mostly because I love the marriage of custardy pastry cream and fluffy whipped cream. However, if you’re inclined, you can absolutely fill the puffs with just pastry cream (be it vanilla, chocolate, or lemon) or whipped cream (sweetened, flavored, or plain). Like the puffs, you can make the crème légère ahead of time and keep it in your refrigerator. You should fill your puffs no more than two hours before you plan to serve the croquembouche since filled puffs will soften over time.
Assembling the CroquemboucheThe other major component of a croquembouche is the caramel. For this particular croquembouche, you need two batches: one for dipping the tops of the puffs and another for gluing the dipped puffs together. Many recipes advocate for making a single batch of caramel to dip and assemble but since the caramel solidifies as it cools, making it extremely hard to work with no matter how much you rewarm it, I call for two batches of the golden syrup. I follow Stella’s advice and stir the caramel to help the sugar dissolve. Once the sugar syrup reaches a boil, I switch to shaking and swirling the pan to ensure even caramelization. Since sugar syrup caramelizes fast once it takes on color, I rely on eyesight alone to gauge doneness instead of a thermometer. I avoid providing a temperature as a guide, since the volume of caramel produced is too shallow and can lead to an inaccurate reading.
As soon as the color reaches medium amber, I carefully pour the caramel into a heatproof microwave-safe bowl. It’s worth mentioning that, during testing, I took the caramel to various degrees of caramelization, from a light honey color to one verging on burnt sugar. I prefer a medium amber color both for its visual appearance and depth of flavor, without harboring any bitter notes. If you prefer a different doneness, by all means, pull your caramel once it reaches that shade.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAt this point, you’ll want to don latex gloves to avoid getting burned by hot sugar, then dip the top of each puff in the caramel before returning it to the baking sheet caramel-side up. You should try to work as quickly as possible since caramel thickens as it cools, making it harder to coat the tops evenly. However if this happens, simply pop the bowl in the microwave and reheat until the caramel loosens.
Once their caramel coating hardens, I like to sort my puffs, grouping them together by size, which will help create even layers in the tower. (Even though we're using a template to pipe the puffs, it’s unavoidable that some will be slightly larger or smaller than the others). I cluster nine of the largest puffs together―all of which are similar in size―for the initial layer, then do the same for the next layer of eight puffs, and so on and so forth. Although this step isn’t necessary, it helps ensure that I use the correct number of puffs per layer while also speeding up the assembly process.
To make sure I’m ready to assemble my croquembouche, I place a sheet of parchment paper on top of a cake stand or turntable (this will catch any caramel drips) followed by an eight-inch disposable cake round. On top of the cake round, I arrange my pre-selected nine puffs in a circle to help gauge the width of the base.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAs soon as that second batch of caramel is ready, it’s time to start assembling the croquembouche. Remove one puff at a time from the arranged circle, dip a rounded edge in the caramel then stick it back in the empty space, angling it slightly inward to promote an even slope and holding it in place for a few seconds until the caramel hardens. Once your bottom layer is glued in place, you’ll repeat this process for the successive layer of eight puffs, dipping each puff in the caramel and positioning it in the gap between the bottom two puffs, while angling it slightly inward and holding it in place.
It’s inevitable that you’ll have spaces here and there in the layers that are too large to leave empty but too small to fit a whole puff. For these spaces, take one of the extra puffs, dip it in caramel, and place it sideways in the empty space. Continue building your croquembouche, layer upon layer, and zapping the caramel in the microwave as necessary to loosen it (keep in mind that you want to keep the caramel as fluid as possible to prevent a thick coating that will make it difficult to break the puffs apart when serving). Once you reach your second-to-last layer, dip the bottom of one puff, stick it to the bottom of another puff, then dip the rounded edge of the conjoined puffs in the caramel and stick it on top before dipping and placing your final puff.
If the caramel hasn’t fully set, dip a fork into the bowl then move it in a circular motion around the croquembouche from top to bottom to form thin, shiny threads. The croquembouche can be kept at room temperature for a couple of hours before serving. Resist the temptation to hold the croquembouche any longer (whether at room temperature or in the refrigerator) as the caramel will become sticky and eventually melt since sugar is hygroscopic, pulling moisture from the cream puffs the longer it sits. When it’s time to serve your croquembouche, take a moment to admire your creation, maybe snap a few pictures with it, then break it to glorious smithereens.
For the Cream Puffs: Adjust oven racks so that one is in upper-middle position, the other is in lower-middle position, and preheat oven to 400°F (205°C). Take one sheet of parchment paper and, using a 1 1/4-inch round cutter, trace 25 circles that are 1 inch apart. Flip paper upside down and place on a rimmed baking sheet. Pipe a small amount of choux paste under each corner of parchment paper (the dough acts as a glue and keeps the paper in place as you pipe). Repeat with a second piece of parchment paper and a rimmed baking sheet.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezHolding the filled pastry bag at a 90° angle, apply steady downward pressure to pipe puffs onto a prepared tray, filling each circle completely. To stop piping, cease applying pressure and swirl the pastry tip away. Repeat with second prepared tray. To smooth the surface of any uneven puffs, dip a finger into cold water and gently pat down any bumps. Dust puffs evenly with powdered sugar.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezBake both trays, switching racks and rotating trays front to back after 20 minutes, until puffed, golden brown, and hollow feeling, about 25 minutes total.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWorking quickly while puffs are still hot, gently insert the tip of a paring knife into the underside of each puff and rotate in a circular motion to create a small hole, about 1/4 inch in size. Return puffs to trays and place in the turned-off oven with the door partially open and let stand for 30 minutes to allow puffs to dry and fully set.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezInsert tip of crème légère–filled bag into hole in each puff and begin piping with steady pressure until filled (you can tell because the puff will feel heavy and cream will start to overflow the hole). Wipe away any excess crème légère. Repeat until all puffs are filled and set aside; reserve leftover crème légère for another use.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPlace one sheet of parchment paper on top of a cake turntable or stand followed by an 8-inch disposable cake round or the 8-inch removable bottom of a springform or tart pan wrapped in aluminum foil. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezFor the Caramel: In a 3-quart saucepan or saucier, combine 10 1/2 ounces sugar (1 1/2 cups; 300g) and 3 ounces water (6 tablespoons; 85g) water over medium heat. Stir with a fork until syrup comes to a boil, about 4 minutes, then simmer without stirring until syrup is honey-colored, roughly 5 minutes, shaking and swirling as needed to ensure even caramelization. Continue cooking, without stirring or swirling, until syrup is medium amber, about 1 minute longer. Carefully pour the hot caramel into a small glass bowl.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile wearing latex gloves, hold each puff upside down and carefully dip the top in the caramel, letting any excess drip off. Return dipped puff to the tray caramel-side up. Repeat with remaining puffs. If the caramel starts to thicken, microwave in 10-second increments, stirring after each increment, until caramel is loose in consistency.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWash and dry the used saucepan. In now-clean saucepan, combine remaining 10 1/2 ounces sugar (1 1/2 cups; 300g) and 3 ounces water (6 tablespoons; 85g) water over medium heat. Stir with a fork until syrup comes to a boil, about 4 minutes, then simmer without stirring until syrup is honey-colored, roughly 5 minutes, shaking and swirling as needed to ensure even caramelization. Continue cooking, without stirring or swirling, until syrup is medium amber, about 1 minute longer. Carefully pour the hot caramel into a separate small glass bowl.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo Assemble and Serve the Croquembouche: Arrange the 9 largest caramel-topped puffs in a circle so they’re touching one another on the prepared cake round (this helps gauge the width of the base). Removing puffs from the circle one at a time, dip one side of the rounded edge of each puff into the caramel then press the dipped side, with the caramel-top facing outward, into its space on the cake round, angling it slightly inward and holding it in place until the caramel hardens, about 3 seconds. Repeat with remaining puffs to form the first layer of the croquembouche.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezTo build successive layers, repeat the dipping process with the remaining puffs and caramel. As you build, you’ll reduce the number of puffs in each successive layer by one, positioning each puff in the gap between the bottom two puffs. If you have a space that needs to be filled in order to make a full layer, take one puff, dip a rounded edge in the caramel, and position the puff sideways in the empty space to complete the layer. If the caramel starts to thicken, microwave in 10-second increments, stirring after each increment, until caramel is loose in consistency.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezOnce you reach your second-to-last layer, dip the bottom of one puff, stick it to the bottom of another puff, then dip the rounded edge of the conjoined puffs in the caramel and position it on top. Dip and place your final puff on top of the conjoined puffs. (You may have a couple leftover puffs, which you can eat or share).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezAt this point the caramel should be quite viscous with a consistency similar to honey (if the caramel is even thicker like rubber cement, microwave in 5-second increments, stirring after each increment, until it loosens a bit). Dip the tines of the fork in the caramel, letting it drip back into the bowl until it falls in a thin thread. Then, move the fork in a circular motion around the croquembouche from top to bottom to form hair-like strands of caramel. Repeat until croquembouche is covered in caramel strands.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezServe croquembouche within 2 hours of being assembled. To serve, guests can break off puffs as desired or you can use scissors to cut apart puffs and transfer to serving plates.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial EquipmentDisposable latex gloves, cake turntable or stand, 8-inch disposable cake round (optional)
NotesIf you prefer to fill the puffs with pastry cream or whipped cream, you will need a greater volume of filling (roughly 3 cups).To use pastry cream, make a double batch of any of the pastry cream recipes―vanilla, chocolate, or lemon―or make a batch each of two different flavors. To use whipped cream, make a double batch of whipped cream (sweetened, flavored, or plain).
Make-Ahead and StorageA croquembouche is best enjoyed immediately, ideally within 2 hours once assembled; left to stand longer and both the caramel and puffs will soften.
To store unfilled cream puffs, wrap them tightly in plastic and place in an airtight container; they can be kept frozen for up to 1 month. To refresh puffs, preheat oven to 350°F (177°C). Transfer frozen puffs to a sheet tray and reheat until crisp, about 5 minutes. Let cool at room temperature before filling.
Crème légère can be prepared ahead of time and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyI love toaster ovens. I use mine to toast my daily bread, and now, many come with a myriad of other handy functions (air frying, anyone?). And, if the marketing material is to be believed, the Breville Joule Oven Air Fryer Pro is the Hummer of toaster ovens; it can toast, slow cook, bake, broil, roast, dehydrate, proof, and, yes, supposedly air fry to crisp and golden perfection. It also boasts connectivity to an app that uses the same technology as the Joule sous vide app (though, it should be noted up front that this machine does not have an immersion circulator function, and these are two separate apps). I used this bulked-up toaster oven daily for more than a month to find out if it could make do on so many promises.
Full transparency: Serious Eats collaborated with Breville to provide some recipes for its Joule app, but all opinions are our own, and we reviewed the oven as objectively as we would any other piece of gear.
The TestsWe used the Breville for a variety of tasks, including dehydrating orange wheels.Serious Eats / Grace Kelly Toast and Bagel Test: I pretty much have toast or a bagel everyday, so I tested the oven’s toasting ability by tossing in various slices of bread (sourdough, white bread, baguette slices) and bagels. * Air Fryer Test: I used the toaster oven to air fry chicken wings, breaded chicken cutlets, frozen french fries, potato wedges, and more. * Dehydrator Test: I used the oven's dehydrate function to make dried blood orange slices for garnishing cocktails. * Convection Tests: I used the oven’s convection fan and super convection fan to cook all manner of items: pizza, casseroles, roasts, quiche, reverse-seared steak, fish, and more. * App Tests: I used the Breville Joule app that pairs with the oven, testing its “autopilot” recipe function and attempting Google Home connectivity. * Usability Tests:* I noted how easy the machine was to use, program, and wipe clean.
What We LearnedThe Air Fryer Element Was GreatSerious Eats / Grace KellyWhile we generally think a designated air fryer does a better job at air frying (the smaller capacity allows the device to heat up faster and really concentrate the air circulation around the food), the Breville actually air-fried quite well. French fries came out evenly golden and crunchy (and only required shaking the basket once), as did a very simple Breville recipe for air-fried chicken wings (it just required tossing the wings in baking powder and salt before placing them on a rack in the accompanying sheet tray); the wings came out very crispy, but still juicy and tender inside. Plus, the toaster oven comes with an air fryer mesh basket, ensuring air circulates all around your food.
The App Was Helpful if You Want to Follow Its Recipes, But Could Be Improved Upon Overall Serious Eats / Grace KellySuper Convection Cut Down Cook Time Serious Eats / Grace KellyThe “super convection fan” function consistently slashed cooking times by 10 to 15 minutes. This was a lifesaver on nights when I started dinner a wee bit late, or when prep took longer than I thought. Instead of having to run out the door to my fitness class without eating, I just set the oven to “super convection fan” and still had time to have my cake (or quiche, air fryer chicken wings, or pizza) and eat it too. It’s a great feature, and really puts the “oven” in toaster oven.
All its Cooking Functions Worked Well Serious Eats / Grace KellyI used the toaster oven nearly daily for a variety of tasks: toasting bread and bagels, roasting meats, baking desserts and pies, and air frying french fries, breaded chicken, broccoli, chicken wings, and more. All of the functions worked well, though I found that some items, like toast and baked goods, browned a little unevenly (they tended to get darker towards the back of the oven). I also found that the oven frequently collected condensation near the upper right hand corner of the door. According to Breville, this is normal, and they’ve actually installed a small vent on the left-hand corner of some of their smart ovens to allow steam to escape. This is apparently an improvement from the past, when condensation would simply run down the machine onto the countertop.
Standard Half Sheet Pans Don’t Fit InsideThis is a bummer, but, to be fair, most toaster ovens are smaller than a standard oven and won’t fit a standard, half sheet pan inside. This was actually one of the roomiest toaster ovens I’ve used (and I’ve used many). That said, we do wish that the toaster oven came with more than just a single sheet pan, and that it was flush and smooth rather than divoted. If you like quarter or eighth sheet pans, this is the oven to use them in.
It Has a Few More Bells and Whistles Than Our Winning Toaster OvenThe Breville Smart Oven was our winner in our review of toaster ovens—and it’s a great choice. It sports a convection fan—same as the Joule Air Fryer Toaster Oven—and has nine cooking functions, including toast, bagel, bake, roast, broil, pizza, cookies, reheat, and warm. What makes the Joule Air Fryer Toaster Oven different is its app connectivity, super convection fan (it’s higher-powered and creates more air circulation), and its air fryer, dehydrate, slow cook, and proof functions.
The VerdictThe Breville Joule Oven Air Fryer Pro Toaster Oven is a great buy if you want to squeeze the most you can get out of an appliance; I loved that I could bake, roast, air fry, toast, and dehydrate all in one machine (freeing up some much-coveted countertop space). The convection feature on this baby was also a fantastic time saver.
There are a few negatives, though. First, I didn’t find the app particularly helpful; functions like Autopilot, while nice in theory, didn’t really save me that much time or energy, and the notifications were more annoying than useful. I also couldn’t get the oven to connect to my Google Home, which would have been fun to try.
So, if you want to save $100, you could spring for the Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer Pro instead, which seems very similar to the Joule oven (minus the app connectivity), though we haven’t tested it. And if you’re looking for an even more no-frills (sans air fryer and a few other functions) pick, we also like the Breville Smart Oven.
Price at time of publish: $500.
Key Specs Weight: 23 lbs * Voltage: 120 Volts * Wattage: 1800 Watts * Dimensions: 21.5 x 17.3 x 12.8 inches * Temperature range: 80°F to 480°F * Accessories included: 13 inch non-stick pizza pan, 2 wire racks, 9 x 13 inch broiling rack, 9 x 13 inch enamel roasting pan, air fry/dehydrate basket * Number of Presets: 13 * Presets: Toast, Bagel, Bake, Air Fry, Broil, Roast, Pizza, Cookies, Proof, Reheat, Slow Cook, Keep Warm, Dehydrate * Care: We recommend hand-washing the pull out tray; the rest of the machine should be carefully wiped down with a damp cloth and mild spray solution, and dried. Take care not to touch the quartz heating elements. * Warranty:* 2-year limited warranty
Serious Eats / Grace KellyFAQsDoes the Breville Joule Oven Air Fryer Pro air fry well?Yes, the air fryer function made crispy french fries, chicken wings, and more, and it was fast and easy to use.
How do I clean the Breville Joule Oven Air Fryer Pro? Before washing, the manual recommends unplugging the oven. To clean the exterior body, use a soft, damp sponge with a non-abrasive liquid cleaner or mild spray solution. To clean the glass door, Breville recommends using a glass cleaner or mild detergent and a damp sponge. Stay away from metal scouring pads and abrasive cleaners, as they can damage the surface. When cleaning the interior (which features a nonstick coating to make it easy), wipe the walls with a soft, damp sponge and mild spray solution (just make sure to apply your cleaning solution to the sponge rather than directly the interior walls), then dry. Breville recommends avoiding cleaning and touching the quartz heating elements.
Is the Breville Joule Oven Air Fryer Pro worth it?While we loved using this toaster oven and found all of its functions performed well, the app isn’t quite up to our functional standards—yet. However, some might find app notifications, Autopilot, and recipes useful. And, of course, it’s still a fantastic toaster oven loaded with other great features (albeit at a slightly higher price point than our winning toaster oven).
Serious Eats / Will DickeyOriginally launched in 1998 for offices, the Keurig machine and its accompanying K-cups introduced the world to the pre-packaged capsule that can brew a single cup of coffee at a time. There’s something to be said for convenience, and Keurig machines gained three million new users in 2020 alone.
But a Keurig, no matter how consistent, can’t match high-quality coffee that’s ground just before brewing. There are several limitations to these brewers. Here’s why we don’t recommend them over automatic drip machines.
How Do Keurig Machines Work?While a drip coffee maker uses a flash-heating chamber and gravity to brew, Keurig machines employ a water and air pump to pressurize their brew process. This added pressure is key: it allows Keurigs to force water through each K-cup, and speed up the brewing process from three to four minutes to mere seconds.
When you set a K-cup into the machine, the top foil is punctured by five needles to allow the pressurized water in, while the bottom of the plastic cup is punctured a single time to allow the brewed coffee to drain. Each K-cup functions not only as packaging for the coffee inside, but also as a brewing chamber and coffee filter.
It’s a fascinating piece of technology, but there are some flaws to its design.
For Starters, There’s Not Enough CoffeeSerious Eats / Isaac NunnMost K-cups are filled with eight to 12 grams of pre-ground coffee, and since the Specialty Coffee Association recommends 55 to 60 grams of coffee per liter of water (around 14 grams for an 8-ounce cup), they should really only be brewed with four to six ounces of water. Most Keurig brewers default to eight ounces, and don’t even offer a 4-ounce option. Too much water and not enough coffee leads to thin, weak brews, but running extra water through the same amount of coffee also overextracts the grounds and pulls more bitter flavors into the cup.
The Grind Is Too FineTo make up for the lower coffee dose, coffee is ground very finely before it’s packed into a K-cup. While a finer ground coffee will help boost brew strength at a low coffee to water ratio, the extra extraction will also start to pull more of the bitter, dry flavors out of the grounds. Too much water and too fine of a grind means that, no matter what, it’s likely that a Keurig is going to extract more bitterness than a standard drip machine.
It Brews Too Fast at Too Low of a TemperatureSerious Eats / Isaac NunnEvery Keurig machine is calibrated to brew at 192ºF, which is lower than the ideal 195-205ºF brew temperature range. Brew temperatures that are too low have a hard time extracting the denser, caramelized sugars in ground coffee, which means Keurig machines struggle to get sweetness into the cup. At the same time, it takes three to four minutes of extraction time to zero in on those sweeter flavors, and the Keurig’s condensed, one-to-two-minute brew time, even with its pressurized boost, is just too short.
There’s No Way Around It: That Coffee Is OldRoasted coffee gives off carbon dioxide gas for about two weeks after it’s been roasted, which helps keep it from oxidizing and going stale. That means, in order to seal coffee in airtight capsules, coffee for a K-cup must be sitting for at least that long before it’s packaged, or the capsules will explode. Coffee also loses most of its aromatics within minutes of being ground, which means that every K-cup is packed with coffee that’s likely already oxidized and gone stale.
It’s Bad for the Environment—and ExpensiveSerious Eats / Isaac NunnSince 2020, Keurig has switched all of its K-Cups to being recyclable. But even with the switch to #5 rated polypropylene, plastics just are not being recycled. The overall environmental impact of single-serve plastic capsules is pretty staggering, with billions of capsules ending up in landfills or being washed out into the ocean every year.
They’re also extremely expensive. A pack of 60 Starbucks K-cups is priced out at $.95 per serving, while buying a bag of their coffee works out to be around $.34 per serving: almost a third of the cost. That means K-cups are around three times more expensive than buying whole bean or ground coffee. And while you can buy reusable K-cups and fill them with your own coffee, the issues with brew time and temperature still remain.
Are There Any Pros? The case against K-cups is pretty strong: they don’t taste great, they’re bad for the environment, and they’re three times more expensive than buying whole bean coffee. However, Keurigs are still very convenient. Because Keurig machines operate on a closed system for single-serve brewing, they’re easy for people with limited mobility to use. And for those who are infrequent coffee drinkers, a single-serve machine like a Keurig might make more financial sense than having a bag of coffee in the cabinet go stale. But there are alternatives, too.
So, What Should You Consider Instead? If you’re in the market for a single-serve brewer, we were impressed with the Spinn Pro Coffee Maker. Though it’s a much pricier piece of equipment, the Spinn offers fully-automated single-serve brewing from whole bean coffee. If you drink at least two cups a day, however, you could save around $400 in coffee cost alone, quickly closing the price gap between the Spinn and a Keurig.
You could also forgo the machine altogether. Steeped Coffee is a single-serve filter bag, packing ground coffee similarly to how a tea bag would be. And Swift Coffee offers high-end instant coffee by freeze drying good quality coffee that’s been brewed to exact specifications. Both Steeped Coffee and Swift Coffee work with a variety of specialty coffee roasters, too, so you might even be able to find a single-serve option from your favorite brand.
FAQsIs it worth it to get a Keurig?While Keurig machines offer great convenience, they don’t brew very tasty coffee. They also have a high environmental impact due to excessive plastic waste, and the K-cups themselves are much more expensive than buying a bag of coffee.
Can you put regular coffee in a Keurig?There are reusable coffee pods offered for Keurig machines, made by Keurig itself and third party manufacturers. These pods allow you to add your own ground coffee, cutting down on both the environmental impact and cost per serving.
Why is drip coffee better than a Keurig?Automatic drip coffee makers allow you to control the amount of coffee to water and the grind size, and a high-end coffee maker can deliver the correct water temperature and brew time. Having the freedom to fine tune each of these variables allows you to make much better coffee than you could with pre-packed, pre-ground K-cups.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayEnameled cast iron skillets, a cousin of the uncoated cast iron skillet, offer certain advantages over their non-enameled counterparts. For one, the enamel coating provides protection from rust and doesn’t need to be seasoned, and it can still handle high temperatures. Some enameled cast iron skillets can even be washed in the dishwasher, while you would never do that with uncoated cast iron. The glossy surface is also easy to clean and offers a bit more of a nonstick coating right out of the box (though, to be clear, this is not a nonstick skillet coated in nonstick material; ceramic is naturally nonstick).
While enamel does provide some distinct advantages, it’s also prone to chipping, scratching, and staining. Extreme temperature changes can expose the enamel to thermal shock and could potentially cause cracking. However, there are still plenty of occasions where an enameled cast iron skillet is a great choice (like when scrambling or frying eggs). But are all enamel cast iron skillets created equal? We put eight to the test to find out.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Best Enameled Cast Iron Skillet: Staub Cast Iron 10-inch Fry PanWe found this offering from Staub was a fantastic skillet in terms of quality, performance, and ease of use. The flared sides allowed for great browning (since they didn't capture steam) and easy spatula access, and because it was relatively lightweight, it heated up quickly and evenly.
Alternative Pick: Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Signature SkilletWhile this skillet heated up a little more slowly than the Staub, it still reached high, even temperatures. It also seared steak well, cooked up perfect over-easy eggs, and the flared sides made it easy to maneuver a spatula into the pan.
The Best Budget Enameled Cast Iron Skillet (Less Than $100): Crock Pot Artisan 10-inch Cast Iron SkilletIf you want to add an enameled cast iron skillet to your kitchen, but don’t want to make a large financial commitment, go for the Crock Pot skillet, which did better than many other, more expensive models. It almost did as well at heat absorption and retention as the Staub, and the smooth, enameled interior let us flip fried eggs easily.
The TestsSerious Eats / Taylor Murray Heat Conduction Test: To determine how quickly and evenly the skillets heat on the stove, we placed each pan on an electric burner over medium heat (setting five out of ten on our burner). Starting at 30 seconds, we recorded the temperature on the surface of the pan using an infrared thermometer every 30 seconds (for four minutes total) in the center, left, and right sides of the pan. * Fried Egg Test: We examined how evenly the skillet cooked fried eggs, if the eggs stuck, and if it was possible to get a spatula into the pan to flip the eggs. To do this, we coated each pan with an even layer of oil (the amount differed because the pan sizes differed), heated the skillet to medium heat, and cracked two eggs into it. After two minutes, we flipped the eggs and observed the quality of each egg. * Steak Test: We coated each skillet in an even layer of oil and seared 6-ounce steaks for three minutes on each side. After flipping, we noted how even and deep the sear was. * Cornbread Test (Winners Only): We baked skillet cornbread in our favorite pans to determine how evenly the skillet heated and whether or not the cornbread stuck to the surface when we tried to turn it out. * Usability and Cleanup:* We evaluated how comfortable the skillets were to grip; how easy (or difficult) it was to maneuver a spatula into the pans, and how easy each was to clean.
What We LearnedLighter Skillets Absorbed Heat Better and Heated More EvenlySerious Eats / Taylor MurrayResults varied in our heat tests, with some pans heating up fast to high temperatures, and others not so much. Some pans were all over the place in terms of temperature between the center and sides, whereas others were more even across the entire surface. When looking at the results measured from the center of the pan, we saw that the Staub, which was on the lighter side at 4 pounds, 15 ounces (heavier skillets ranged from 7 to 9 pounds) got the hottest the fastest. It remained in the top spot, achieving a maximum heat none of the others could reach (though the Le Creuset came close). This tracks with findings we saw in our uncoated cast iron skillet testing, where the lightest pans reached a higher temperature faster because of less overall metal. However, that doesn’t explain why the Lodge skillet (solidly in the middle of the pack weight-wise at 6 pounds, 13 ounces) was so slow to heat and never reached temperatures that all the other pans hit. Instead of weight, we think this is likely due to the makeup of the enamel, which can affect how the heat is distributed over the surface of the pan. Enamel quality varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, depending on the methods and materials used in the enameling process.
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayWe also saw varied findings when examining the ranges of temperatures taken across the surface of the pan. Some pans had a similar temperature regardless of where the temperature was taken, whereas others differed widely. The Staub, for example, starts to look like an almost straight line towards the end of the test, indicating extremely even temperatures across the surface.
Gently Flared Sides Were Better Than Straighter Ones Serious Eats / Taylor MurraySkillets with high sides that stuck up at right angles from the bottom tended to trap steam, which hindered browning and caramelization. Conversely, flared sides whisked steam away from the bottom so meat seared optimally. We also found that cornbread released more easily from skillets with sloped sides; straighter sides clung to the cornbread and made it difficult to remove. Plus, a flared edge made it a bit easier to maneuver a spatula into the pan to retrieve food.
Big Handles (and Helping Handles) Made Maneuvering EasySerious Eats / Taylor MurrayDesign also played a part in usability, as heavy pans with small handles were much more difficult to grip and transfer to the oven or sink. We preferred longer handles with rounded edges, which were more comfortable to grab (like the handle on the Le Creuset). For heavier pans with pour spouts (which should be large and deep, or they risk not really being useful at all), helping handles were absolutely vital, and we liked ones that were big enough to grab easily with a thick kitchen towel or oven mitt.
The Criteria: What to Look for in an Enameled Cast Iron SkilletSerious Eats / Taylor Murray / Grace KellyThere are huge differences in price with enameled cast iron. Generally speaking, the more expensive the pan was (and if it was from a legacy brand like Staub), the better it performed. This is because the craftsmanship and quality control of these brands is very meticulous (as we've found when we tested Dutch Ovens). We also found that, generally, matte black enamel on the interior is preferable since it’s less prone to staining.
The presence or lack of a helping handle isn’t that big of a deal unless you are dealing with pans that weigh more than eight pounds. Any less than that, and the average home cook should be able to lift or pour from the pan one-handed without issue. That being said, if it does have a helping handle, it should be big enough to easily grasp with a thick kitchen towel in hand. The main handle should also be large enough to grab with two hands. Regarding pour spouts: the best are larger and deeper; shallower ones tend to dribble. However, this isn't a dealbreaker—just don't use the spout.
When it comes to weight, lighter skillets were easier to lift and carry and also tended to heat up faster (which makes sense, because less material to heat means less time to reach a consistent temperature). We also preferred skillets with gently flared which resulted in better browning and less sticking when baking cornbread.
The Best Cast Iron Skillet: Staub Cast Iron 12-inch Fry PanWhat we liked: The Staub surpassed all the other skillets in every test. When we conducted our heat absorption and retention test, this skillet reached the highest temperature the fastest and was the most consistent from center to edge. This was reflected when we cooked in it as well—the eggs and steak cooked evenly (and they didn’t stick). The smooth, curved sides whisked away steam before it had a chance to interfere with browning and made it easier to get in there with a spatula.
Another great aspect of the Staub skillet is that the maximum heat rating is 900°F, about 400 degrees higher than any other pan in our lineup. While most home ovens don’t get that hot, you could roast vegetables in a pizza oven with this skillet no problem. The pan is also (amazingly) dishwasher-safe, though hand washing was very easy; we hardly needed to scrub it at all due to the slick enamel coating.
What we didn’t like: While the Staub skillet did well in our cornbread test, we did notice some very slight variation in the evenness of the color on the bottom. Also, the helping handle is quite small; if it was a bit bigger, it would be even more useful.
Price at time of publish: $195.
Key Specs Weight: 4 lbs, 15 oz * Diameter: 10 inches * Cooking surface diameter: 8.25 inches * Max Heat: 900°F * Care Instructions:* Dishwasher-safe (though we'd recommend hand washing to preserve it's longevity).
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayAlternative Pick: Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Signature SkilletWhat we liked: Like the Staub, this skillet heated up to high temps evenly across its surface, seared steaks beautifully, and perfectly cooked over-easy eggs. We liked the rounded handle, which was easy to grasp, and the curved sides, which allowed for steam to escape and also made it easy to use a spatula in the skillet.
What we didn't like: This skillet has more material than the Staub, so it did take longer to heat up but once it did, it retained its heat beautifully across the cooking surface.
Price at time of publish: $220.
Key Specs Weight: 5 lbs, 6 oz * Diameter: 10.25 inches * Cooking surface diameter: 8.5 inches * Max Heat: 500°F * Care Instructions:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayThe Best Budget Enameled Cast Iron Skillet (Less Than $100): Crock Pot Artisan Cast Iron SkilletWhat we liked: The Crock Pot brand is a household name for the eponymous slow cooker appliance, but their cookware line is equally solid. While other enameled cast iron skillets easily cost a couple of hundred dollars, the Crock Pot skillet will set you back $68. It produced great results during the egg and steak tests, and even the cornbread had nice, even browning on the bottom.
While the enamel isn’t totally nonstick (we had some issues with cornbread sticking), we didn’t have any issues with fried eggs or seared steak sticking to the bottom. We expected the white enamel interior to stain or discolor after testing, but no residue remained after cleaning. The handles are comfortable to hold, and maneuvering the pan is just as easy with one hand as it is with two due to the pans light weight.
What we didn’t like: The white enamel interior requires a bit more elbow grease when cleaning to get back to pure white, and the finish wasn’t entirely nonstick; cornbread got a bit stuck in it when we tried to turn it out (though it did brown nice and evenly on the bottom). The high sides had a hard right angle from the bottom, which made it difficult to use an offset spatula to help release the cornbread. This pan is also not dishwasher-safe.
Price at time of publish: $36.
Key Specs Weight: 6 lbs, 5 oz * Diameter: 10 inches * Cooking surface diameter: 8.25 inches * Max Heat: 500°F * Care Instructions:* Hand wash only
Serious Eats / Taylor MurrayThe Competition Great Jones King Sear Skillet: While we liked the broad cooking surface of this skillet (it’s good for serving larger groups), the cornbread and eggs both stuck to the bottom of the pan. The handle was also too short to hold with two hands, but also too heavy to hold with just one. * KitchenAid Enameled Cast Iron Frying Pan: Large, bulky, and awkward to hold, this skillet didn’t do very well in any of our tests. It also had temperatures that were all over the place during our heat absorption test. * Tramontina Covered Skillet Enameled Cast Iron: The Tramontina skillet was deep with tall, high sides that trapped steam and prevented caramelization during searing. * Lodge Enameled Cast Iron Skillet: Even though the Lodge skillet fried a couple of perfect over easy eggs, we had to disqualify it for its low heat absorption that led to a poorly seared steak. * Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Signature Skillet: This is a great skillet, but it just didn’t do quite as well as the Staub, despite being more expensive. * Our Place Cast Iron Always Pan:* While we liked the accessories that came with it (the glass lid, wooden spoon, and silicone handle covers), they didn’t make up for overall poor cooking performance. The high sides trapped steam, interfering with browning and caramelization, and the enamel interior wasn’t as nonstick as other pans; the cornbread stuck to it and emerged unevenly browned.
FAQsWhich is better—cast iron or enameled cast iron?The short answer is neither—and both! Cast iron is undoubtedly more durable and would be the better choice for cooking over open fire or for projects where you plan to use extremely high temperatures. The seasoning on a cast iron pan can eventually become completely nonstick, whereas enameled cast iron will remain unchanged over time. Enameled cast iron is also more suited for recipes high in acid (which could damage uncoated cast iron) or for situations that would benefit from a more even distribution of heat.
Is there anything you can’t cook in an enameled cast iron skillet?There really is no type of recipe that cannot be cooked in an enameled cast iron skillet. Pan pizzas, roasted chicken, and even baking recipes all work really well in enameled cast iron.
Can you put an enameled cast iron skillet in the oven?You can absolutely put enameled cast iron in the oven, and some pans can tolerate up to 900°F (though most max out at 500°F).
Can you use enameled cast iron on an induction burner?All of the enameled cast iron pans we tested were compatible with induction burners, as well as gas and electric. To be sure, check the manual on your enameled cast iron pan to see if it’s compatible.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe enchanting fruit of the vanilla orchid first cast its spell on the Maya, Totonac, and Aztec peoples of its native Mexico at least several hundred years ago. Vanilla complemented these Mesoamericans’ chocolate drinks in pre-Columbian times, and the “beans” eventually made their way to Europe on Spanish ships in the eighteenth century. Vanilla hasn’t outrun its tight association with chocolate, but it does often venture out on its own. In the US, vanilla’s flavor (in its various forms, which we’ll get into shortly) is mainly sought for ice cream―a lot of ice cream―and other sweet treats, with a tiny share ending up in savory dishes.
Most American recipes that include vanilla require it in alcohol-based extract form; we’re used to reaching for those tiny bottles of dark brown spirituous liquid. But as effective as the default store-bought extract may be, I’ve long wondered if it’s the absolute best carrier of concentrated vanilla flavor. In Europe, I’ve seen (or, at least, used to see) a lot more packets of vanilla sugar on grocery shelves than bottles of vanilla extract, so I know that’s one alternative. And as cooks we often hear that fat carries flavor—so why not vanilla butter? I decided to pit store-bought alcohol-based vanilla extract against three homemade flavorings―my own alcohol-based extract, vanilla butter, and vanilla sugar―to determine which delivers the most robust vanilla flavor.
The Science of Vanilla FlavorThose slender, brown-black, wrinkled vanilla beans filled with miniscule sticky black seeds are actually cured, semi-dried fruits. They started life as green pods resembling overgrown green beans and sprouting along one of three species of orchid vines in the Vanilla genus. The barely ripe pods are shocked with high heat from hot water, steam, or the sun. The goal of this step is to cut short the ripening process, during which sugars and amino acids necessary for curing and flavor development would naturally be exhausted. According to Shawn Gavin, founder of the spice company Slofoodgroup, hot water (over 140°F) is by far the most common method because it is inexpensive; steaming is effective but requires costly equipment; and the sun is, of course, the least controllable and therefore the least relied upon. After this blast of heat that effectively kills the pods and kick-starts the curing process, they’re submitted to intermittent sun exposure and storage over the course of weeks or months. By the end of all this, the volatile molecules that define vanilla’s distinctive aroma and flavor have been freed within the skin, the seeds, and their molasses-like fluid, and cell damage has changed their color from green to dark brown.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezThe flavor and aroma of vanilla are the concerted effect of some two hundred volatile molecules (a note to my fellow non-chemists out there: molecules called “volatile” aren’t wild and unpredictable; they just readily evaporate under normal conditions). Our brain interprets the molecules to which our nose’s smell receptors and our tongue’s taste buds are exposed. The primary compound that our brain associates with vanilla is vanillin. In addition to vanillin, cured vanilla beans can also emit compounds with floral, anise, smoky, tarry, creamy, and nutty notes. The exact flavor depends partly on the species of vanilla bean, of which there are three that are widely cultivated: common (Vanilla planifolia; labeled Mexican, Bourbon, Madagascar, and Indonesian), Tahitian (Vanilla x tahitensis), and Pompona (Vanilla pompona—a rare Central and South American species). Tahitian vanilla beans have a much more delicate character—more floral and nutty than tarry and smoky—than the other species. (Artificial vanilla flavoring, on the other hand, is usually one-note, made with vanillin synthesized in labs from guaiacol, found in a wood oil called creosote, or from lignin, a by-product of the paper-making industry.)
The quality of vanilla flavor in our foods is, as with any flavor, highly affected by the medium within which the flavor molecules reside. Harold McGee points out in On Food and Cooking:
"Aroma chemicals are generally more soluble in oils, fats, and alcohol than in water….Oils and fats dissolve more aroma molecules than water during cooking, but also hang on to them during eating, so that their flavor appears more gradually and persists longer. Alcohol also extracts aromas more efficiently [than water], but because it too is volatile, it releases them relatively quickly."
Stella Parks has written that high-quality store-bought vanilla extracts deliver far more intense and complex vanilla flavor than whatever most homemade vanilla extract recipes can. This is true. Most homemade vanilla extract recipes have you steep the pods in alcohol for a long time at room temperature, and for all the investment of time and ingredient expenses, what comes out the other end is a mere shadow of what good bottled products offer. Commercial producers know what they’re doing and use experience, research, and equipment we don’t have at home to extract maximal flavor molecules from vanilla beans. But let's take a closer look at what exactly makes some homemade alcohol-based vanilla extracts—and other vanilla flavorings, for that matter—weaker than store-bought extract.
- Concentration: The FDA requires a minimum 1 part vanilla beans for every 10 parts ethyl mixture (ethyl alcohol, at least 35%, mixed with water) by mass. That’s a lot of vanilla beans―25 beans for each liter of liquid―and judging from many recipes available online, most homemade “extracts” include a lower proportion of beans.
- Temperature: As Stella points out, most homemade “extracts” are in reality imprecisely flavored vodka. Extraction requires precise heating: too low of a temperature and the flavor volatiles won’t be pulled out from the vanilla beans; too high of a temperature and some of the volatiles will be undesirably altered or destroyed.
- Extraction Medium: The volatile molecules that define flavors have different solubility characteristics. Most are more soluble in alcohol than in water, while some are more soluble still in fats or oils. And when it comes to infusing granulated sugar with vanilla’s flavor, the marriage seems to be a more superficial one. “Over time,” writes Kye Ameden at King Arthur Baking Company, “the oils and small particles from the ingredient impart aroma and flavor into each spoonful of sugar.”
- Vanilla Bean Quality: You want to make sure that your vanilla beans come from a trustworthy source—one that has cured and stored the fruits under optimal conditions—and haven’t been sitting around long enough to lose their potency. As soon as you open a package of vanilla beans, their signature heady aroma should waft its way to your nose. Grade A beans should be plump and supple with a somewhat glossy finish. Grade B beans are perfect for extract; they are a tad drier than their Grade A counterparts and may have superficial imperfections, but they are less expensive and contain all of the flavor you need. As for the species and origin of vanilla you choose, that’s a matter of taste. Vanilla planifolia is the most vanillin-forward, while V. tahitensis is subtler and more floral in character. If you’re lucky enough to come across the rare V. pompona (I’ve only read of it), you may find truth in descriptions of it as complex, spicy, sweet, and fruity.
Taking into account all of the above, I hypothesized that fat or oil would be a superior flavor extraction medium for vanilla, with more flavor stability and intensity than in an alcohol-based extract. If you’ve ever cooked an Indian dish, you’ve likely made a tadka. That’s the technique (and product) of blooming spices in hot oil or fat; it wakes up the spices’ flavors and diffuses them through the fatty medium in which they’ve been heated. It’s taken as a given in Indian cooking that heat and fat are essential to get the most out of spices.
With some tailoring in terms of temperature and time to accommodate vanilla’s delicate volatile molecules, I can’t see why the concept behind tadka wouldn’t apply to vanilla extraction. Extracting vanilla flavor using fat or oil might produce a more intense flavor than what we find in our usual alcohol-based extract.
But while I suspected fat was going to be the best medium for vanilla flavor extraction, I also wanted to test other techniques, including precision-heated extraction (using an immersion circulator a.k.a. a sous-vide device) in alcohol and, separately, granulated sugar, to see if there was a worthy alternative to store-bought vanilla extract.
Homemade Vanilla Flavorings: Common TechniquesI made each of my three homemade vanilla flavorings—vanilla extract, vanilla butter, and vanilla sugar—under conditions that took into account my research into commercial vanilla extraction methods and studies of optimal vanillin extraction. I wanted all of my flavorings to be made using the same single-origin species of vanilla bean to ensure a level playing field in terms of flavor profile. I went with Tahitian vanilla simply because Nielsen-Massey makes a Tahitian vanilla extract recommended by Stella Parks, and my trusted vanilla bean source, Native Vanilla, sells extract-grade Tahitian beans.
For the vanilla butter, I went with a European butter, as it has a higher fat content than conventional American butter (about 85% versus 79%). For the homemade alcohol-based vanilla extract, I chose Tito’s vodka. And for the vanilla sugar, I used organic cane crystals, to keep it in line with the quality and flavorfulness of the other mediums.
To evaluate how the flavorings performed, I chose two recipes to make that called for substantial amounts of vanilla extract and would allow the vanilla flavor to shine through: pound cake and sugar cookies. I tailored the vanilla concentration of my homemade elements for the cake and cookie recipes for which these elements were destined. Both recipes call for 1 tablespoon (15 grams) of vanilla extract, which my research suggests would have been extracted from about 1.5-1.65 grams of vanilla bean. So, the extracted flavor molecules of 1.65 grams of vanilla bean (I went with the high end of the estimate) are what I wanted to end up in 145 grams of my vanilla butter, in 250 grams of my vanilla sugar, and in 15 grams of my homemade alcohol-based extract.
To make the same quantity of each element and achieve the desired concentrations, I combined the following, in three separate jars:
- Alcohol-based vanilla extract: 750 grams vodka + 82.5 grams vanilla bean
- Vanilla butter: 750 grams butter + 8.53 grams vanilla bean
- Vanilla sugar: 750 grams sugar + 4.95 grams vanilla bean
I split the vanilla beans in half and placed them in the jar with their respective extraction medium. For the sugar, I also scraped the seeds from the pods in order to give it a fighting chance for flavor distribution against its more fluid competitors. (I included granulated sugar as a medium because, as I wrote above, vanilla sugar is a common ingredient in Europe. But if I were to run this experiment again, I would add a simple syrup to the lineup to find out whether being in liquid form would make sugar a better carrier.)
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI placed the three jars in a water bath whose surface level reached just below the jar caps, and I used an immersion circulator to bring the water to 146 degrees Fahrenheit. I covered the whole apparatus with aluminum foil to trap the heat, and I left the vodka, butter, and sugar to do their thing (that is, attempt to extract as much flavor as possible from the beans) for three hours, after which I removed them from the hot water and let them slowly come to room temperature on the kitchen counter. (The butter, which had separated during heating, required occasional agitation in order to re-emulsify it). They rested overnight, and in the morning I put the vanilla butter in the refrigerator.
Testing the Vanilla FlavoringsFor each recipe (the pound cake and sugar cookies), I made five versions: one using Nielsen-Massey’s Tahitian Pure Vanilla Extract (a Stella Parks favorite), one with the homemade alcohol-based extract, one with the homemade vanilla butter, one with the homemade vanilla sugar, and one without any vanilla flavoring as a control. For the recipes flavored with vanilla butter and vanilla sugar, I added a tablespoon of vodka to make up for the omitted alcohol-based vanilla extract. For the cakes, I replaced the coconut oil with butter or vanilla butter, and I made up for the fat loss by swapping in crème fraîche for a portion of the sour cream.
I baked all of the cakes and cookies in a single day, and over the course of three days a partner and I performed two blind taste tests and two blind smell tests, each time ranking the samples from most to least intense vanilla flavor and/or aroma. The first taste and smell tests were performed the day after baking, when everything had cooled to room temperature and settled overnight. The observation continued over the two days that followed. For the first taste test, the cake was served at room temperature, and for the second, it was warmed. For the smell tests, the cake and cookie samples were kept in airtight containers which their aromas could fill before being briefly opened for sniffing.
The ResultsOur sniffing and tasting revealed the vanilla butter to have the strongest vanilla flavor and aroma, followed in descending order by the homemade alcohol-based extract, the store-bought extract, and finally the vanilla sugar. The vanilla-free control cake and cookies offered a good reference for the flavors and aromas that were not coming from vanilla.
Overall, the vanilla flavor was more pronounced in the pound cake than in the sugar cookies. And the reheated cake samples had a more pronounced vanilla flavor than when they were served at room temperature. To explain this, Serious Eats Senior Culinary Director Daniel Gritzer offers that volatile molecule activity increases with temperature, and he theorizes that pound cake's spongy texture (versus that of the denser cookies) offers more surface area for the release of aroma molecules.
The differences of flavor and aroma among the cakes and cookies with vanilla were subtle. But by the end of days spent sniffing and tasting, it had become clear that the vanilla sugar didn’t really hold up to baking; that the homemade alcohol-based vanilla extract was slightly more intense than the store-bought; and that the vanilla butter delivered on all fronts―intensified vanilla and butter flavors and aromas.
Considering just how intoxicatingly fragrant the vanilla sugar was in its raw state—before being baked into a recipe—I was surprised by the weak results it delivered in the finished cake and cookies. By way of explanation, there’s the fact that sugar is the most neutral-smelling of the substances I infused, so in a raw smell test, the vanilla gets to shine without any buttery or alcoholic distractions. And as Stella Parks points out, vanilla sugar’s delicious aroma “is like the top note of perfume: fleeting at best, and too volatile to survive the rigors of boiling or baking.” For this reason, I would use vanilla sugar in applications that require no cooking: to coat doughnuts or to sweeten whipped cream or to top oatmeal. (Vanilla confectioner’s sugar might be more useful, as it could dust all kinds of dessert dishes for an aromatic finishing touch.)
So, you’re thinking, I should switch from alcohol-based vanilla extract to vanilla butter, right? Well, that’s where things get a little complicated. The main reasons to stick with alcohol-based extract over vanilla butter are about food safety and shelf life.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezI consulted a number of food safety experts and several of them confirmed the validity of my worries. "The bottom line," wrote Dr. Don Schaffner, co-host of the podcast Risky Or Not?, "is that the process you’re using has not been validated for control of pathogens like Clostridium botulinum [the bacteria that can cause botulism], which might well be present on the vanilla beans." And low-oxygen environments like oil and fat, the experts explained, are favored breeding grounds for pathogens that wish to proliferate. Vanilla bean being a dried fruit, the existence of harmful pathogens is a possibility, however minimal. That doesn’t mean that vanilla beans are dangerous; it just means that any tiny risk can multiply into a much bigger one in the right environment, which is why canning has such an aura of danger associated with it.
The heat used in my extraction process (146°F) is not high enough to kill all pathogenic microorganisms—but raising the temperature enough to do so would destroy the very flavor molecules we seek to coax from the beans. Refrigerating the vanilla butter after production would reduce the risk, but even then one expert warned against keeping it beyond four days. With all the effort and expense that goes into extracting vanilla flavor at home, I think it's pretty clear we want it to have a long and happy shelf life—well beyond four days.
This is where the alcohol-based extractions come out ahead. Microorganisms detest alcohol about as much as they love a room-temperature bath of fat. As a hospitable environment for flavor volatiles and an inhospitable one for pathogens, an alcoholic vanilla extract’s shelf life is effectively indefinite.
All this testing and research just to find out that I should stick to alcohol-based vanilla extract? Well, yes and no. The homemade vanilla extract performed better than the store-bought, and that’s a big deal. What it means is that while most recipes for homemade extract are a waste of time and money (as Stella has argued before), a more controlled approach can be worth doing.
My tests showed that there is a much more effective method for making vanilla extract at home than the internet-ubiquitous guidance to simply long-infuse vodka with vanilla beans. I’ve found that a really good homemade alcohol-based vanilla extract—more intensely flavored than even a top-quality commercial extract—is achievable; it just requires a bit of temperature control and the right ratio of vodka to vanilla beans. Plus, it cost me less than one-third the amount of money per ounce to make this vanilla extract than to purchase the one I used in my tests: about $1.80 per ounce for the homemade versus $5.50 or more per ounce for the store-bought, based on my purchases of vanilla beans from Native Vanilla, vanilla extract from Amazon, and vodka from the local liquor store.
Plus, alcohol-based vanilla extract is highly versatile. Unlike vanilla butter, which relies on a recipe that requires (or at least works with) butter, alcohol-based extract can be added to a much wider variety of foods. I’ve also found the extract to be the perfect storage environment for the beans used to make it; the alcohol keeps the beans plump for a future second use while the extract only gets smoother and more intense. I highly recommend giving my recipe for precision-heated vanilla extract a shot. Use the resulting liquid as a 1:1 replacement for store-bought extract. It will change the way you think about the DIY stuff.
Set up an immersion circulator and preheat water bath to 146°F (63.5°C).
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPlace the halved vanilla beans in a 1-liter (33.8-ounce) glass jar. Add the vodka to the jar and use a fork or slotted spoon to push the vanilla beans down so that they are completely submerged in the vodka. Seal jar and gently lower into water bath; the water should reach just below the lid of the jar. Set a heavy mug, small bowl (filled with water, if necessary), or other weight on top of the jar to keep it from floating, and cover the top of the water bath with aluminum foil followed by a kitchen towel. Cook for 3 hours.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezUsing tongs, carefully remove jar from water bath (if you don’t want to deal with the hot water, you can also turn off the immersion circulator and let the water cool before removing the jar—this just takes a while). Allow vanilla extract to cool to room temperature (overnight is best). At this point, you can remove the beans from the extract and reserve them for other uses, or you can leave them in the liquid. (I recommend leaving them in the liquid; it’s the perfect place to park them until you need to fish them out for another use, and the flavor of the extract will only get better over time.) Either way, store the extract in a cool, dark place.
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezSpecial Equipmentimmersion circulator (sous vide machine), 1-liter (33.8-oz) glass jar with a tight lid
NotesGrade B vanilla beans, also sold as “extract grade,” are a tad drier than their Grade A counterparts and may have superficial imperfections, but they are less expensive and contain all the flavor you need. They are available from Native Vanilla and Slofoodgroup.
Make-Ahead and StorageVanilla extract can be stored in an airtight jar or bottle in a cool, dark area. The vanilla extract won’t necessarily go “bad,” but for optimal flavor, the beans should be removed within 2 years and the liquid extract should be used within 5 years.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe Spinn Coffee Maker does something that, in my 16 years of coffee experience, I haven't seen before. Automatic drip machines and pourover brewers rely on gravity to extract, while immersion brewers, like the French press or cold brew makers, use osmosis. Espresso machines employ a pressurized chamber and extremely finely ground coffee to create espresso. The Spinn, on the other hand, uses a centrifuge and water jets to do all of the above.
If you’re having a hard time picturing what that means, imagine a salad spinner: as it spins, centripetal force pulls water off the lettuce through the basket, and collects on the walls, as well as pooling at the bottom. The Spinn works similarly but with coffee, as shown in this video from the company, where you can see a rendering of their centrifugal filter. It’s an intriguing idea, and while people have likely experimented with centrifugal brewing before, it’s never made its way to a commercially available coffee machine.
How It WorksSerious Eats / Jesse RaubThe Spinn comes with a built-in grinder and offers pre-set coffee options including espresso, Americano, drip, and cold brew. It’s marketed as an all-in-one package that competes with capsule-style machines, like Nespresso, and it even comes with an app and Wi-Fi connectivity that allows you to brew from, well, anywhere. To add to this, Spinn is even working with speciality coffee roasters to develop custom brewing specs. The idea is you could scan a bag of coffee, and the machine will automatically tweak its settings to extract that specific coffee to the roaster’s specifications.
If it sounds ambitious, it is. There’s no precedent to gauge the machine’s functionality by, and with its fully enclosed brewing system, it’s also not possible to run any independent tests on the grinder or the brew chamber like we did with coffee makers with built-in grinders. The only thing to do, then, was to fire it up and brew some coffee.
TestingSerious Eats / Jesse RaubAfter the proprietary app walked us through initial start-up (which involved a self-cleaning flush), the brewer was ready to go. The front of the machine has indicator lights to let you know to refill the coffee hopper or water reservoir, or to empty the grounds bin or drip tray. It also has a simple interface with three different unlabeled, illustrated buttons for various coffees. Instead of learning which buttons trigger what, it was much easier to use their app to browse through the 15 different coffee options.
While the app also offered a large section of drink recipes (many of which leaned on an optional external milk frother) we decided to stick to its core coffee options (espresso, brewed coffee, and cold brew) to better evaluate the brewer’s main functions. To test the machine, we went through multiple bags of coffee, brewing each coffee style back-to-back, and checked for flavor quality, consistency, and usability.
What We LearnedIt’s Hard To Definitively Call It An Espresso MachineSerious Eats / Jesse RaubWhile the machine offers coffees it calls “espresso,” it’s hard to actually gauge if these beverages are technically espresso. The Specialty Coffee Association’s definition of espresso includes the amount of coffee used and the time it’s brewed, and says it should be extracted at “nine to ten atmospheres of pressure.” What that definition doesn’t include is the mechanics of an espresso machine: finely ground coffee is packed into a filter basket, with hot water directly pressurized through it. The shape and design of the machine is what truly defines espresso as a brew method, so it’s probably more accurate to say that the Spinn produces a very strong coffee that's close to the concentration of an espresso but is technically distinct to itself.
The Spinn’s version of espresso was still pretty good. There was a distinct sweetness to the coffee, and the flavors tasted balanced. Each shot brewed to consistent specifications, even after repeated back-to-back brewing. There were other espresso options too, for longer and shorter shots, but the flavor and concentration didn’t shift much like it would with a regular espresso machine—only the volume changed.
Brewed Coffee and Americanos Were Just So-SoThe brewed coffee was a little hollow and had a dry, chalky finish. While it exhibited some of the sweetness the espresso shots did, there was a distinct bitterness that suggests some overextraction. In comparison, the Americano was slightly more balanced, but thin—instead of coming directly through the coffee spout, the Spinn produced an espresso, and then diluted it with a secondary hot water spout, the way an Americano would be prepared in a cafe. Like an Ameicano from a cafe, the Spinn’s version was a little weak, though it showcased more of the sweetness that I found in the brewer’s espresso options.
Cold Brew Was Surprisingly GreatBoth the nitro cold brew and cold brew drip options were really tasty, better than most traditionally-made cold brew. There’s actually a good scientific reason why, too: coffee has a dominant flavor compound (cholorgenic acid) which usually provides a pleasant, light bitterness that becomes more bitter and sour the longer it sits. It’s why old coffee in a mug is undrinkable. By brewing coffee with cold water quickly in a centrifuge, the Spinn bypasses this problem—instant cold brew that tastes fresh.
Beverage Volumes Were Very AccurateIt was impressive how accurate the Spinn brewer’s volume listings were: brewed coffee listed as 6.8 ounces was within a tenth of an ounce every time, and espresso shots consistently lined up to the 2-ounce marking on our measuring cup. The key to this is the machine’s centrifugal extraction, which pulls out all of the liquid from every individual coffee particle—so, whatever volume of water enters the grounds comes out as extracted coffee.
The Machine Worked Really Well Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe machine worked like a charm. If there was ever an issue (for example, if the water reservoir needed to be refilled), the indicator on the front of the machine popped on, and the app alerted us. The parts and pieces fit together easily, so it was never a chore to empty the grounds bin (though the green plastic ring that lines the lip of the grounds bin did fall into the trash can a few times). As much as we liked the coffee, the truly impressive thing was how well the whole system worked.
Automated machines offer a lot of freedom to busy people or those with limited mobility, and since the Spinn operates off of a water reservoir and a coffee hopper, there’s less prep work than a capsule machine, which requires you to load in a capsule every time you want to brew. If a Spinn brewer is locked and loaded, it can brew multiple times in a row before it needs tending to—and you can even start it from another room via the app. As new technology, it was impressive how well it operated through our testing.
The Verdict Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe ProsThe Spinn brewer offers some of the best tasting, fully-automated brewed coffee out there. While none of its coffee options could fully measure up to traditional brewing methods, they were all light years ahead of coffee makers with built-in grinders and capsule machines, like Nespresso. What was truly impressive was how well the machine worked: the app and machine were in tune and it was clear whenever the brewer needed attention. While the Spinn might not replace all of the equipment on a coffee nerd’s counter, it’s a viable alternative for anyone who doesn’t brew a lot of coffee at home and wants to avoid the waste and poor flavor quality of a capsule machine. There’s also strong potential for people who have limited mobility—with a larger capacity reservoir and coffee hopper matched with one-touch brewing options, the Spinn doesn’t require loading a small capsule every time someone wants to brew. A visiting caretaker could even fill the brewer with coffee and water once a week, setting the brewer up for someone who might struggle with how small capsules are. While the Spinn is a lot pricier than most capsule machines, being able to use your own coffee and skirt overpriced proprietary capsules can also be a money-saver in the long run.
The ConsThe two main limitations of the Spinn are taste and cost. No matter what, the Spinn couldn’t replicate the flavor quality of a traditionally pulled espresso shot or drip coffee. It’s an expensive machine and, for that price, you could buy our top picks for coffee grinders and coffee makers and still have money leftover. It’s also new technology with a lot of moving parts inside. We hesitate to highly recommend expensive equipment with a lot of automation because there’s a chance it might require more maintenance than a simpler drip coffee maker, and there’s not a lot of long-term use info out there on the Spinn. Still, there’s no other machine that can tackle all of the different coffee styles the Spinn can, so if that’s what you’re looking for, the Spinn might well be a good choice for you.
Who It’s Best ForIf you’re looking for a no-fuss automated brewer but still care about the quality of the coffee you’re using, the Spinn presents a new alternative to capsule brewers. Because it’s such new technology, though, we recommend it if the higher price tag won’t break your budget, even if it can be a long-term money-saver.
FAQsCan you use coffee beans in the Spinn Coffee Maker?The Spinn only works with whole coffee beans since its grinder automatically feeds ground coffee into the brewing chamber. So, at the moment, you can’t use pre-ground coffee or capsules with it.
Can you use the Spinn coffee maker without using the app?The Spinn coffee maker has a variety of coffee options programmed to various buttons, so you can use it without the app. You might want to read the user manual first to learn how to cycle through all of the options first.
How do I clean a Spinn coffee maker? The user manual comes with detailed instructions on how to clean a Spinn Coffee Maker, but you can hand-wash the removable parts, including the the grounds bin and water reservoir. To clean the inside of the machine, the Spinn has an automatic cleaning cycle and custom cleaning solution.
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziIf you're an iced drinks person, then you know: ice cube trays don't make a lot of ice. Enter the countertop ice maker, which is capable of producing a a whole lot of ice in a relatively short amount of time.
Before you set your sights on a particular ice maker, consider how much space you have, how often you need ice, and what you'll be using the ice for. Your answers will help determine the type of ice maker that’s best for you. If you pile ice into your drinks all day long, you might want a high-yield, nugget ice maker. If you’re a passionate home mixologist who wants ice for serving cocktails, then slow-melting, clear ice is better-suited to your needs. If you’re just looking to chill drinks without making a major investment, a compact bullet ice machine will do the trick.
Endless ice is an appealing promise, but it's better to know what you’re getting before you invest the money (and counter space). So, to find the best ice maker, we tested eight models, ranging in price from $90 to $575.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Best Nugget Ice Maker: GE Profile Opal 2.0 Nugget Ice MakerThis was a sleek ice maker that yielded soft, crunchy pellet ice, affectionately known as “the good ice” in certain circles. It produced ice quickly and consistently. The detachable side reservoir made refilling the machine easy, and the automatic cleaning cycle simplified cleanup. WiFi connectivity gives users the option to turn this machine on remotely and come home to a batch of fresh ice.
The Best Ice Maker For Cocktails: Luma Comfort Clear Ice Cube Maker MachineThe Luma ice machine made large batches of slow-melting, clear ice. This dense ice is ideal for cocktails, because the slower melting time prevents excessive drink dilution. This model featured a convenient side spout for drainage, so there’s no need to lift a heavy machine over your sink when it’s time for cleanup.
The Best Less-Expensive Ice Maker: Magic Chef 27-Lb. Portable Silver Countertop Ice Maker The Magic Chef ice maker is a sturdy and reliable machine for everyday use. This model was among the fastest machines to begin producing ice, and over the course of an hour it churned out almost 1-pound of cubes. This model strikes a good balance between speed, quality, and price.
The TestsSerious Eats / Madeline Muzzi Speed Test: We filled and ran each ice maker according to manufacturer instructions, timing how long it took to produce a batch of ice. * Production Test: To evaluate yield, we ran each ice maker for one hour. Then, we weighed the ice that accumulated in the machine. * Durability Test: We ran our favorite ice makers through five, one-hour cycles to evaluate how well performance held up with repeated use. * Cleaning Test: We cleaned each ice machine according to manufacturer instructions, running the automatic cleaning cycle where applicable. * Usability Test:* Throughout our testing, we noted if the machines were easy and intuitive to set up and use.
What We LearnedDon’t Call It a Cube Bullet ice, as seen here, is rounded. It's also one of the faster melting types of ice cubes.Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe ice makers we tested produced three different types of ice: bullet ice, nugget ice, and clear ice. These shapes aren’t just a stylistic choice, they actually have different textures and melting times. Nugget ice, the type produced by the GE Opal and Gevi ice makers, is made from small layers of flaked ice that have been caked together, almost like a snowball. This gives the ice a soft and chewy texture. Since each individual ice flake is small, this ice melts quickly, giving drinks a slushy-like quality. The majority of the machines we tested (including our pick from MagicChef ) produce bullet ice, a rounded ice with a hole in the center that formed around a super chilled prong submerged in water. These quick-forming cubes are medium-soft. The hole in the center creates more surface area, which speeds up melting time. Clear ice, like the kind produced by the Luma Comfort, has the lowest air content and is the densest and slowest-melting ice.
Faster Wasn't Always BetterBullet ice makers, like the MagicChef and Silonn, were the fastest machines, producing their first batches of ice in just eight minutes. However, after an hour of ice production, they had accumulated less ice than the slower (21 minutes per batch) Luma ice machine.
This is partially because bullet ice cubes melt more quickly than clear ice, so by the time the hour was complete, the first batches of ice from the bullet ice machines were well on their way to melting.
Air Bubbles in Ice Affected Melting SpeedThe Luma ice maker created ice with a lack of bubbles, meaning it's harder and melts more slowly.Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziWater naturally has tiny air bubbles in it. When it freezes quickly, these little air bubbles become trapped in the ice. Imagine the difference between a pile of shaved ice and an icicle. The small pieces of shaved ice melt more quickly than the dense, solid icicle. Quick forming bullet ice has visible air bubbles trapped in it. These lower the density and increase the melting speed. Clear ice is clear because it doesn’t have many (if any) bubbles trapped in it. This dense ice takes longer to form, but lasts longer in the machine and in your glass.
Air bubbles aren’t necessarily good or bad—ice texture is a personal preference—but in some applications, slow-melting ice is preferable. For stirring and serving cocktails, slow-melting ice (read: less bubbles in it) won’t dilute the drink as quickly as bullet ice. Straight spirits and spirit-heavy cocktails are beloved partially for their smooth texture and are usually sipped. Dense ice that melts slowly allows you to enjoy a strong cocktail without watering down the last sip.
Cleaning Was Key We liked ice machines with spouts that easily emptied excess water into the sink.Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziIce on command is extremely convenient, but safely maintaining a countertop ice maker takes a bit of effort. Standing water is an ideal breeding ground for bacteria, so if your ice maker isn’t running constantly, there’s a good chance that any water left in the machine will grow some slimy gunk. High-end models like the GE and Gevi nugget ice makers featured automatic cleaning cycles that can be run with a mixture of water and bleach, but most of the ice makers we tested needed to be cleaned (and drained) by hand. The Silonn, FrigidAire, and Igloo models featured drain spouts on the bottom of the machine, which meant they had to be lifted and placed over the sink to empty the water. Ice makers are heavy, and completely draining the water from these machines was difficult. The smaller AGLucky ice maker was easy to lift, but it was difficult to reach inside its small reservoir to wipe the corners clean. Although it doesn’t feature an automatic cleaning cycle, the Luma Comfort was the only machine with a side drainage spout. Compared to bottom-draining models, this was significantly easier to use.
How Noisy Were the Ice Makers?All countertop ice makers generate some noise. Some models we tested produced the low hum of a white noise machine, while others replicated the buzzing rumble of a refrigerator in need of repair. During testing, we found that ice makers with a consistent noise output were less disruptive than those that warbled. Most machines were about as loud as an overloaded laptop being asked to open one more tab. The worst offender was the FrigidAire compact ice maker, which produced an irregular whirring that was difficult to tune out.
The Criteria: What to Look for In a Countertop Ice MakerSerious Eats / Madeline Muzzi / Grace KellyChoose an ice maker that fits on your countertop and produces your favorite kind of ice (be it bullet, clear, or nugget ice). Look for a model with a cleaning cycle and/or easy drainage. Proper hygiene is important, and an easy-to-clean appliance will make this habit more attainable.
The Best Nugget Ice Maker: GE Profile Opal 2.0 Nugget Ice MakerWhat we liked: This ice maker makes and stores oodles of ice. During testing, this machine made just over a pound of ice in an hour, and the storage bin has a stated capacity of three pounds. Start this machine a few hours ahead of time, and you’ll have enough ice to last you through a dinner party. The nugget ice it produces is soft and crunchy and really great. The machine itself is large, but you don’t have to worry about lifting the whole thing to fill it—refilling the reservoir is made easy by the detachable side tank. The self-cleaning cycle is also easy to run, and if you follow manufacturer guidance by running the cleaning cycle with diluted bleach water once a week, this should suffice for cleanup.
What we didn’t like: Good ice comes at a cost. Weighing-in at a whopping 38 pounds, this was one of the largest, heaviest, and most expensive machines we tested. Because of the size and weight, it’s difficult to move this machine around. This model also takes more setup and makes a little more noise than a simple bullet ice maker.
Price at time of publish: $630.
Key Specs Weight: 38 lbs * Dimensions: 14.8 x 11.3 x 14.1 inches * Production:* 1.09 lbs per hour
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe Best Ice Maker for Cocktails: Luma Comfort Clear Ice Cube Maker MachineWhat we liked: The Luma Comfort ice maker churns out high-quality, clear ice. This machine yielded a lot, too, making 1.3 pounds of ice over the course of an hour. The Luma also comes with an extra mode: restart the machine and hold down the power button for five seconds to make even thicker ice cubes. This was the only model with a side drainage spout, making it easy to empty the water from this machine—just place it near a sink, and watch the water drain away.
What we didn’t like: This model takes a slightly longer time to start producing ice; the first batch took 21 minutes to freeze. While running, this machine creates a consistent white noise-like hum, but the dense ice cubes make a bit of a racket when they drop into the tray. This machine also lacks a self-cleaning cycle, and it should be drained and wiped clean by hand once a week.
Price at time of publish: $340.
Key Specs Weight: 25.5 lbs * Dimensions: 14.8 x 11.3 x 14.1 inches * Production:* 1.3 lbs per hour
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe Best Less-Expensive Ice Maker: Magic Chef Portable Silver Countertop Ice Maker What we liked: This speedy machine was the top yielding bullet ice maker, producing 374 grams of ice in one hour. It was simple to use, and it began producing ice within eight minutes. Plus, compared to our other winners, this is the smallest and most affordable option.
What we didn’t like: This model lost points during cleanup. It lacks the cleaning cycle of the GE Opal and, unlike the Luma, its drainage spout is located on the bottom. So, to drain it, you have to place it over a sink to remove excess water.
Price at time of publish: $144.
Key Specs Weight: 21 lbs * Dimensions: 15.4 x 11.7 x 15.7 inches * Production:* .82 lbs per hour
Serious Eats / Madeline MuzziThe Competition* Silonn Ice Makers Countertop: The Silonn ice maker ranked just about in the middle of the models that we tested. It was easy to set up and produced ice within eight minutes. The drainage spout for this model is on the bottom, so it needs to be picked up and positioned over the sink to empty it before cleaning. * Gevi Household Nugget Ice Maker: Compared to the GE model, this ice maker took longer to start and produced less ice per hour (442 grams compared to 496 grams). It lacked a detachable side compartment, so filling it with water was cumbersome. * AGLUCKY Countertop Ice Maker Machine: This model had the second lowest yield after an hour of production. The smaller size offers some countertop convenience, but it also made it harder to clean—it was difficult to reach the bottom of the reservoir with a damp rag. * FRIGIDAIRE EFIC189-Silver Compact Ice Maker: Of the bullet ice machines, this model took the longest time to produce a batch of ice. While running, it made an inconsistent whirring sound that didn't fade easily into the background. * Igloo Automatic Ice Maker: This ice maker had the lowest yield after one hour. The small ice cubes melted quickly, and by the time several batches had been produced, the first batch had melted substantially.
FAQsDo countertop ice makers keep ice cold?After a batch is produced, countertop ice makers hold the newly formed ice in a basket or dedicated compartment. The models we tested will hold ice for a brief period of time, but they don't have a freezer/refrigerated component to them. Instead, countertop ice makers are designed to work continuously. As the ice melts, it drips back into the reservoir where it can be refrozen into fresh cubes.
What are the benefits of having a countertop ice maker?Countertop ice makers produce ice more quickly than ice cube trays, and free up space in your freezer. They also offer an opportunity to make different kinds of ice. There’s no ice cube tray in the world (that we know of) that can produce soft, chewable nugget ice.
Do you need to clean a countertop ice maker?This is a definitive yes. Standing water is an ideal breeding ground for bacteria. If your ice maker isn’t in constant use, it will likely have some amount of water resting in it. To prevent mold and bacterial growth, ice makers should be cleaned following manufacturer instructions, either by running a self-cleaning cycle or by wiping clean with a solution of soap and water. Some ice makers also need to be descaled after several uses. Descaling is a process that prevents mineral buildup in the interior of the machine.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishWhether based in bias or fact, all Palestinians agree that the ka'ak made in Jerusalem taste better than those made anywhere else in the country. In fact, the full name of these beloved oblong sesame breads is “ka’ak al Quds,” which means "Jerusalem Ka’ak.” Some will say it’s the old traditional wood-fired ovens, others will argue it’s the yeast in the walls and atmosphere that has been there for generations. For others still, it’s the aura of Old City, where they are baked daily and a ubiquitous part of the area's history and culture, past and present. Men push their ka’ak-laden wooden carts through the streets shouting, “Kaaaaaaa’aaaaaak,” and everyone, from school children to workers to shop owners and even tourists, gathers round to pay the trivial price for these delicious and filling breads. Whatever it is, ka'ak al Quds does seem to taste different in Jerusalem.
The history of these breads dates back to the Middle Ages, when they were so popular in Arab cuisine that medieval cookbooks did not deign it necessary to even include a basic recipe for them, instead only including variations. Originally they were more akin to a cracker than an actual bread, but they have evolved over time into countless variations and traversed the globe. As I wrote in an earlier piece here, it is very likely that ka’ak was the precursor to the modern day bagel as well.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishToday there are so many breads similar to ka’ak al Quds across the world, from Turkish simit to Polish obwarzanki, many of which are likely descendants of ka'ak. What distinguishes the variety sold in Jerusalem is not only the distinctive flavor, largely thanks to being baked in centuries-old ovens heated with olive wood, but also the shape. It is an oblong ring usually more than a foot long, with a thin crispy crust and light airy interior. They are sold from carts and from neighborhood ovens, and their only downside—one common to many breads—is that they are best enjoyed soon after baking. Still, leftovers can be frozen and reheated in an oven for a close enough approximation.
At their most simple, ka’ak are sold wrapped in newspaper scraps with some za’atar alongside to dip into. For a more filling meal, one can purchase falafel or hay-baked eggs from the same cart vendors. For me, my entire childhood in Jerusalem is dotted with memories of these delicious breads. I won’t claim the recipe here will taste the same as the ones sold on the streets of Jerusalem, but they are a fantastic placeholder until one finally visits the Old City.
For the Dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine bread flour, sugar, salt, yeast, baking powder, and milk and mix at medium speed until a smooth and elastic dough forms. Alternatively, mix the dough ingredients in a large bowl, kneading by hand until a smooth and elastic dough forms.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishRub the dough all over with just enough olive oil to very lightly coat, cover the bowl with a damp kitchen towel or plastic wrap, and set aside to rise in a warm location until almost doubled in size, about 1 hour.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineTo Form and Bake: Meanwhile, in a large shallow tray such as a rimmed quarter sheet pan, stir together the sesame seeds and grape molasses, gradually adding water 1 tablespoon (15ml) at a time until just thinned enough not to cause the seeds to clump (about 2 to 4 tablespoons in total). Set aside.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineGently punch down risen dough, then divide into 6 equal portions and place on a lightly floured work surface. Loosely cover again with the plastic wrap or kitchen towel and let rest 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestinePreheat oven to 450°F (220°C) and line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Working with one dough portion at a time, roll and stretch dough into logs about 12 inches long (30cm), then pinch the ends together to form rings; arrange formed rings on lightly-floured work surface. Cover once more with plastic wrap or clean kitchen towels and let rest 30 minutes.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishWorking with one dough ring at a time and continuously holding the pinched ends together, gently stretch the ring between your palms until it forms an elongated oval ring about 8 inches (20cm) long and 5 inches (12cm) wide (measuring from the outer edges). If you struggle getting the ends to remain attached, dampen your hands and sprinkle some flour just near the attached ends as you continue to shape and stretch it.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishPress each ring in the sesame mixture, turning to coat both sides, then transfer 3 rings to each baking sheet and let rest for 10 minutes.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishWorking with one sheet of dough rings at a time, bake until golden brown, 15 to 18 minutes. Transfer ka'ak to a wire rack to cool slightly. Repeat with remaining baking sheet of dough rings. Serve ka'ak warm.
Serious Eats / Mai KakishSpecial EquipmentStand mixer with dough hook attachment, rimmed baking sheets
NotesThese breads are normally dipped in a simple water-and-sesame mixture, which helps the sesame seeds stick to the dough. The high temperature of traditional wood ovens then gives the breads their famous dark golden brown color. The best way to achieve this in a standard home oven is to use a mixture of water, sesame seeds, and some kind of molasses. Grape molasses is the most traditional, but if you do not have it at home, you can easily substitute it with maple syrup or honey.
Make-Ahead and StorageThe baked ka’ak al quds can be frozen in zipper-lock bags for up to 1 month; reheat in a moderate oven before eating.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineWhen you talk about "stew" in Nigeria, you're not referring to a general recipe category but instead a specific group of pepper-and-tomato–based dishes made with meat, seafood, or poultry. Stew is a mainstay of many Nigerian meals, served at any time of day from breakfast to dinner. It is also umami personified, with a balance of sweet, slightly salty, savory, and fresh flavors, layered with the unique character of the meat itself.
Stew exists on a spectrum with variations in thickness and consistency, as well as differing ratios of tomatoes to peppers, although the results are generally red in appearance. Growing up in Nigeria, I noticed two main types: a thicker stew built on a nicely fried aromatic base for rice, beans, and/or bread, and a lighter, soup-like consistency popular when served with swallows like eba.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineAcross Nigeria, stew can go by many more specific names, which correlate with each rendition's specific consistency, ingredients, and regional origin. For instance, in Yoruba, the language of the southwest, a very liquid, smooth stew is called omi obe (the literal translation is "stew water") versus a thicker, at times chunkier obe ata ("pepper" stew,) and ata dindin ("fried" pepper stew). Please note that in these instances, pepper doesn't indicate an intense heat level, but rather is meant to describe one of the primary stew base ingredients.
Depending on the style of stew and one's predilection, it can be paired with soft, white bread for dipping; spooned over or alongside rice, beans, cooked roots, tubers, or vegetables; served together with other stews—gbegiri (creamy beans), ewedu (green jute leaves), or plain steamed okro (the Nigerian name for okra), with eba alongside; and stirred into other dishes from egg sauce to Jollof rice and Jollof pasta.
Because of how often it features on the Nigerian table, some Nigerians cook a large batch, portion it into containers, and then refrigerate or freeze it to use as desired.
There are four key elements to making stew. First, there's the aromatic base, which is typically a blend of fresh tomatoes, red onions, and peppers (hot and/or sweet); sometimes tomato paste is also added to deepen the tomatoey flavor and color. These days, particularly in the diaspora where home ovens are increasingly used to mimic the smoky flavors of Nigerian outdoor cooking, you'll find people roasting the vegetables before blending to create a smoky, slightly creamier base.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineSecond, there's the protein, whether a single meat or a mix, including beef, chicken, goat, various types of offal, fish (fresh and dried), mushrooms, and more. Many people cook the protein ahead, often boiling, frying (today also airfrying), roasting, or grilling it, before adding it to the stew base to cook further. The method of cooking the protein comes down to personal preference. Here, I start by cooking beef chuck in a seasoned broth and then reserve the resulting stock to cook the stew; to deepen the beef's flavor, I subsequently roast it before adding it to the stew.
The third critical component of stew are the seasonings, which can include traditional fermented nuts and seeds or more colonial or imported seasonings like curry powder, dried thyme, and bayleaf; aromatics like ginger and garlic sometimes feature as well. Generally, these two approaches to seasoning govern the outcome, so that traditionally stews are wholly traditional, featuring classic indigenous seasoning, and often are cooked with palm oil, which brings me to the fourth element: oil.
The cooking oil is important. In some cases, the oil's own flavor contributes to the overall finished dish, like in traditional recipes where red palm oil (or a smoky version of it) is used. In other cases, flavorless and colorless oils are used and contribute to the texture, not so much the flavor.
As you can see, there are countless ways to make Nigerian stew, but that's what makes it so great. Feel free to make variations of your own using this stew recipe as the base, trying different proteins, different seasonings or cooking oils, or even stirring in greens like amaranth or callaloo. While the term "stew" in Nigeria may not be quite as expansive a term as it is in many other places, the possibilities are still endless.
For the Stock and Beef: In a blender, process ginger and garlic with 2 cups (472ml) water until thoroughly blended.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineIn a large pot, combine beef chuck with onion, bell pepper, and habanero (if using). Pour ginger-garlic mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into pot, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible before discarding the fiber. Add curry powder, dried thyme, bay leaves, black pepper, and a large pinch of salt. Add enough additional water to just cover all solid ingredients (about 2 1/2 quarts; 2.5L); stir to combine.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineCover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to maintain a simmer and cook until the stock is aromatic and the beef is tender, about 1 hour 30 minutes.
Serious Eat / Maureen CelestineUsing tongs, transfer beef to a platter and set aside.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineUsing a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables and bay leaves to the blender and puree with 1 cup (225ml) of stock until homogenous and smooth. Pour pureed vegetables through a fine-mesh strainer back into stock, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible; discard remaining vegetable matter trapped in the strainer. Stir well to combine, then set stock aside.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineFor the Stew Base: Heat oven to 400°F (205°C). Cut cooked beef into roughly 2-inch chunks; feel free to leave any bones in. Arrange beef in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet and roast until browned all over, about 15 minutes. Set aside.
In a blender or food processor, combine tomatoes, red onion, bell peppers, and 2 cups (472ml) reserved stock. Blend or process until a smooth puree forms.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineScrape vegetable puree into a 3-quart stainless steel saucepan or saucier. Cover partially with a lid to contain splatter and cook at a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally, until reduced by half, 30 to 45 minutes. Scrape stew base into a heatproof container, cover, and set aside. Wash out pot.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineFor the Stew: In the cleaned 3-quart pot, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat until shimmering, then add sliced onion along with a large pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until slightly softened, about 4 minutes. Add the bay leaves, curry powder, and dried thyme, and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes longer.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineStir in the tomato paste and continue to cook until tomato paste has lost its bright red color, about 5 minutes; lower heat if necessary to prevent scorching.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineStir in the reserved stew base along with 2 cups (472ml) reserved stock, black pepper, and habanero (if using), and simmer until the stew base thickens and oil pools on the surface, about 20 minutes. Season with salt.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineStir in the beef and continue to simmer until the beef is warmed through, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat and season with additional salt, if desired.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineServe with white rice and dodo, yam, or other root vegetables.
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineSpecial Equipmentblender, 3-quart stainless steel saucepan or saucier
Make-Ahead and StorageThe stock and stew base can be prepared in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week, or frozen for up to 2 months. In an airtight container, the finished Nigerian beef stew can be refrigerated for a week, or frozen for up to 3 months; I prefer storing the meat and stew separately to help preserve the texture of the meat.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikWe’ve long held the opinion that if you want to make a gingerbread house you actually want to eat, then you should do it yourself with construction gingerbread, royal icing, and a whole lot of patience.
What’s construction gingerbread, you ask? It has a uniquely low water content, has zero leavening agents, contains corn syrup, and has a very low ratio of fat to flour, making it like cookie Sheetrock. And like, we imagine, drywall, most construction gingerbread (including that of pre-packaged kits) tastes awful. However, if you make your own, you can build your gingerbread and eat it, too. As Stella said, “Made with butter, vanilla, and plenty of spices, construction gingerbread can be both tasty and strong—think of it as a very flat sort of gingerbread biscotti.”
Of course, with baking projects comes some gear requirements. To successfully make your own gingerbread house at home, it’s helpful to have the following equipment on hand.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikGingerbread House Pattern of ChoiceWhether you’re following our pattern (it’s for a spooky house, but with the right decorations it can certainly be turned into a festive gingerbread house), printing one you found via a Google search, or buying and downloading one off of Etsy, you should pick your gingerbread house pattern before proceeding.
Stand MixerFor mixing your construction gingerbread and royal icing, you’ll need a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Of course, if you own a stand mixer, use what you have, but if you’re looking to invest in one we have a breakdown of how all of the KitchenAid models compare to each other. (Our top pick is the KitchenAid 6-Quart Professional 600 Series Stand Mixer.)
Measuring SpoonsFor measuring out spices and vanilla extract, you’ll need a good set of measuring spoons. These ones have narrow heads that easily fit into spice jars, though you can find a few more of our top picks here.
Parchment Paper SheetsWhile you can certainly just trim a roll of parchment paper to fit a half sheet pan, pre-cut parchment paper sheets make things a whole lot easier. You’ll need them for rolling out and baking the construction gingerbread, as well as any designs (like fences, railings, or trees). Of course, these sheets come in a pack of 100—so you’ll have them for cookies for months to come.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikHalf Sheet PansAs noted above, you’ll need half sheet pans for baking your gingerbread pieces and designs. Our favorite half sheet pans are from Nordic Ware and, conveniently, come in a pack of two—which you’ll utilize for baking all those construction pieces.
ScaleYou could use measuring cups to portion out the flour and sugar, but we recommend investing in a kitchen scale for accuracy so you can measure things down to the gram or ounce. Our favorite model from OXO has a pull-out scale for easy screen reading.
Rolling PinFor rolling out gingerbread dough to an even thickness (about 3/16-inch thick, according to our recipe), you’ll need a rolling pin. And while there are a few different styles of rolling pins and ultimately the best one is the one you like/will use, we prefer a tapered or French-style rolling pin. It feels balanced in hand and is easy to control and long (helping you to roll dough out to an even thickness).
Utility Knife (or Just a Paring Knife)For cutting out your gingerbread pattern, you’ll want to a sharp-sharp-sharp, precise utility knife. Alternatively, you can just use a paring knife, which you probably already have.
Bench ScraperWhile this is not entirely necessary, if you’re a fan of the brick-like look of this haunted gingerbread house, you can make bricks by wrapping a bench scraper’s blade with plastic warp and stamping horizontal lines onto the gingerbread dough before baking it.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikPastry Bags and TipsFor piping icing and decorations, you’ll need pastry bags and a set of tips. Any set will do—and if you’re in a pinch you can make a paper piping bag, though we recommend just buying some for such an intensive baking project.
Kitchen TweezersWhile you could certainly just employ your fingers, for precisely placing decorations, a pair of small kitchen tweezers will help. You’ll find uses for tweezers beyond festive baking, too.
FAQsThe gingerbread house from Sweetology.Serious Eats / Tamara StaplesWhat’s the best gingerbread house kit?If you’re looking for an easy kit that involves zero baking, we recommend these ones from Reese’s or Sweetology. We rounded up a handful of gingerbread house kits, built them all, and found these two to be some of the easiest to put together and have plentiful decorations and icing.
Should you buy or make a gingerbread house? This is entirely up to you! We think homemade gingerbread tastes better and allows for more creativity, but, of course, making a gingerbread house will take a fair amount of time and require you have certain gear. If you’re interested in just buying a gingerbread house kit, we recommend trying one of the kits we mentioned above.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyMost of the tools we use in the kitchen are designed for our hands. Balloon whisks with comfortably grippy handles, chef’s knives with just the right amount of weight distribution, and even countertop equipment, like air fryers, all require manual use. But cooks who spend a lot of time in the kitchen—or suffer from joint or back pain—may be familiar with a tool made specifically for their feet: an anti-fatigue mat.
Anti-fatigue mats are floor mats made from foam; they’re intended to help relieve joint pain, as well as act as a preventative measure. While they’re not necessary for cooking in the way, say, a skillet is, they’re incredibly helpful for anyone who spends a prolonged amount of time in the kitchen..
All of the mats we tested came with manufacturer claims about the mats effectiveness; they would “relieve pressure,” “increase circulation,” and “reduce stress on your knees, muscles, and joints.” To better understand the function of anti-fatigue mats, we spoke with Austin Sumner, a physician specializing in Occupational Medicine and the Medical Director of Occupational Medicine at the University of Vermont Health Network. Anti-fatigue mats are spongy surfaces, he explains, requiring consistent corrective foot movement to maintain balance. These small, corrective movements are considered dynamic, and better combat fatigue and pain than prolonged fixed muscle contraction with non-movement (also called static movement) on a firm surface.
“[A] softer surface leads to more dynamic foot movement, better circulation, and better rhythmic muscle contraction. Keeping it dynamic, in theory, reduces discomfort,” he says, also noting that working barefoot on an anti-fatigue mat may result in more dynamic movement, thereby boosting its beneficial effects. (Shoes can lock the foot into a static, stabilizing position, which is important for some activities—like exercise. But prolonged static position can cause discomfort, like standing at a kitchen counter).
Although Dr. Sumner doesn’t endorse a particular brand of mat, he does prescribe and recommend them clinically to injured workers who have to stand for long periods on hard surfaces. (Dr. Sumner’s practice is in occupational medicine, but he notes that application in the workplace can also apply to the home).
To find the best anti-fatigue mat, we performed an extensive Lab test on a variety of mats—all available online from popular retailers, like Amazon, or for direct sale on their own websites. We then chose seven of the best lab-tested mats for further at-home kitchen testing, with considerations for performance, comfort, durability, and ease of maintenance and upkeep.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Best Anti-Fatigue Mat: House of Noa Nama Standing MatUltra-plush yet firm enough to combat hours of work at a kitchen counter, this mat reminded us of a memory foam mattress: It was the most successful at molding to our feet without creating too deep of a depression in the foam. With an almost overwhelming amount of neutral-toned designs to choose from, this one scored high marks for aesthetics—a category that matters in a piece of equipment that’s essentially a hardworking rug.
Also Great: GelPro Commercial Grade Anti-Fatigue MatThis mat is sold at Office Depot, and yes—it will remind you of your coworker’s standing desk mat. Despite its lack of design options (it comes in one color: black): It held up incredibly well against staining and extended weight application. Its durability and slightly firmer density than the Nama Mat make it a standout choice for prolonged use and chaotic kitchens.
The TestsSerious Eats / Fred HardyTo thoroughly review the mats, our test was broken down into three parts. We also considered aesthetics (including color options, patterns, and texture of the protective topper), because anti-fatigue mats are both a tool and piece of decor.
- Daily Use Test: We used each mat for two full days in the kitchen, cycling through sneakers, socks, and bare feet. The first day was situated between a cutting board and the stove, where we did basic meal prep tasks, like chopping vegetables, searing meat, and whisking sauces. For the second test, we positioned the mat at the sink, where it was used during dishwashing and cleanup. In both instances, we considered plushness, texture, grip, and whether the bottom and surface of the mat were at all slippery. We spent approximately six total hours standing on each mat.
- Durability Test: We placed a 15-pound dumbbell in the middle of each mat for four hours. Once the weight was removed, we noted the depth of the depression left behind, and timed how long it took to spring back fully.
- Staining Test: We spread a mixture of 1 teaspoon of vegetable oil and 1/2 teaspoon of ground turmeric on a small portion of each mat. After letting it sit for an hour, we followed manufacturer instructions for cleanup to assess both ease of cleaning and stain resistance.
What We LearnedFoam Density MatteredThe best anti-fatigue mats were neither too firm nor too plush.Serious Eats / Fred HardyMat height is essentially useless for choosing the best anti-fatigue mat: It’s really about the density. Some mats, like one made by ComfiLife, were flimsy, with a low foam density underfoot, and failed to deliver support. Others, like an extra-long mat by Amazon Basics, were so firm and industrial-looking, they’d fare better as an entryway mat.
All anti-fatigue mats are made from foam, despite different wording in the marketing copy for each one. Jargon like “energy-returning” and “Biofoam” is a sales point. Although “high density” should tell you more about the makeup of the mat (higher density means more support), none of the manufacturers we tested gave actual specifications or details about the production. The only way to determine a foam mat’s density without slicing it open is to stand on it yourself. (Dr. Sumner recommends testing mats in person before buying, if you can.)
Some of the mats we tested felt too plush under our feet, reminding us of water beds: feels great at first, but with prolonged use becomes unsupportive and posturally problematic. Others were so dense, there was minimal difference between standing directly on the floor and using the mat.
The mats we liked best performed like memory foam mattresses: thoroughly molding to our feet with gentle spring back, and without too much of a depression.
The Surface Texture Was Important for Safety AND MaintenanceSerious Eats / Fred HardySome of the mats we tested had a slick, slippery surface. Although it made cleanup easier, we didn’t like using these mats in socks or slippers. An accidental slip or slide is annoying at best, but dangerous when working with knives or heat. Since so many kitchen tasks involve one of the two, it's hard to argue in favor of an ultra-smooth mat topper.
On the other hand, very textured surfaces—like pebbled or waffle-weave toppers—made cleanup unnecessarily challenging. One of the mats we tested had grooves so tiny, only a toothpick could dislodge small crumbs (and forget about stains).
Our favorite anti-fatigue mats had slightly different textures that both worked well. The House of Noa mat topper was slightly rough, which discouraged slipping. On the other hand, the Office Depot GelPro mat had a rubbery, “grippy” texture on its surface that felt virtually accident-proof.
Serious Eats / Fred HardyA piece of equipment that lives in close proximity to your cutting board or kitchen sink needs to be easy to clean. We found that with daily upkeep, the mats were mostly easy to maintain. A stick vacuum and damp rag worked just fine for a full day’s worth of crumbs, pet hair, and spills, like maple syrup or a blob of yogurt. But when it came to staining, the darker colored mats won out. Our top pick, the House of Noa Nama Standing Mat, was a low performer in a turmeric stain test, owing to its beige and pale blue coastal motif. However, with dozens of designs to choose from, a darker, more camouflaging pattern could be chosen.
Quality Construction Reduced Tripping HazardsSee the mat's edge lifting up slightly? Not ideal.Serious Eats / Fred HardySome of the mats experienced a slight flare around their edges and corners, while others sat firmly and entirely on the floor. At first, we wrote off the flare as a minor aesthetic flaw—it looked sloppy—but after our daily use test, we realized that flared edges can be a tripping hazard, too. While stepping onto the mat, it was easy to trip or scuff the lifted edge, especially if we had our eyes elsewhere, or were shuffling our feet. We also experienced awkward step-ons and step-offs with one of our competitors, which featured a large bevel and a towering (by comparison) 9/10-inch height.
While moving about a kitchen with hot pans, knives, and other sharp objects always presents hazards, a central piece of equipment that ups the risk factor is unnecessary. Price does matter here: the two sturdiest mats were also the most expensive.
Design, Color, and Pattern Options Matter More than You May ThinkSerious Eats / Fred HardyAlthough it didn’t rank higher than other requirements, we also considered aesthetics. Unlike bulky or unsightly small appliances that can be tucked away in a closet, anti-fatigue mats double as decor. Most home cooks wouldn’t consider buying a rug that didn’t match their kitchen design (or at least offered a little personality), so we held the anti-fatigue mats to the same standard.
Of course, looks are subjective. What we found attractive may not be your cup of tea. Instead, we favored mats with a variety of colors and patterns, so cooks could choose from a handful of styles.
The Criteria: What to Look for in an Anti-Fatigue MatSerious Eats / Fred HardyThe best anti-fatigue mats have a moderately high density, which allows the foam to mold around your feet without a feeling of “sinking in.” We favored mats with well-constructed, heavier edges to avoid annoying (and potentially trip-hazardous) flared corners. A very gently textured topper is ideal for ease of cleaning, but deep grooves will collect crumbs and stains. Super smooth surfaces, while attractive, invite slipping—especially when wearing socks. Finally, aesthetics matter for this tool. We liked mats that offered a variety of colors and patterns, or at least blended into the background with basic colors.
The Best Anti-Fatigue Mat: House of Noa Nama Standing MatWhat we liked: This mat has just the right amount of plush and comes in over two dozen designs and color options. Of the models we tested, House of Noa also offered the greatest array of mat sizes. While it would be easy to fall for the company’s glossy marketing (the website is highly polished), our testing cemented this as our top pick. It had the most luxurious, cushion-like feel under our feet without being too soft to actually provide support. The edges stayed firmly put on the floor, and the just-barely-textured surface minimized slipping without being a pain to clean.
What we didn’t like: The light coloring of the mat meant deeply hued stains were obvious. But basic daily cleanup (a quick swipe with a stick vacuum and wipe with a damp rag) kept the mat looking almost brand-new. It’s the priciest option of the bunch.
Price at time of publish: $139 (for the 20 x 48 inch mat).
Key Specs Materials: High-density foam (per manufacturer) * Size options: 20 x 32”, 20 x 48”, 20 x 72”, 30 x 72”, 30 x 108” * Thickness: 3/4-inch at the highest point * Care instructions:* Use all-purpose cleaner or mild dish soap and water; dry completely
Serious Eats / Fred HardyThe Best Anti-Fatigue Mat: GelPro Commercial Grade Anti-Fatigue MatWhat we liked: This a serious mat that can handle heavy use and mess, and would work well in an office or laundry room space, too. The mat topper was slightly rubberized, with a very grippy feel that made us feel confident to cook in socks. In fact, the GelPro outranked every mat in the staining test and durability test, and stood neck-and-neck (or rather, toe-to-toe) with the House of Noa in our daily use test. It’s comfortably heavy, well-made by a reputable office supply company, and carries a certification by the National Floor Safety Institute, an organization that aims to “aid in the prevention of slips, trips-and-falls through education, research, and standards development."
What we didn’t like: The lack of customizable options was disappointing. While black works just fine at a standing desk or garage workbench, it will fall short for cooks with strong design opinions or a themed kitchen. While slightly less than the House of Noa mat at the same size, it still costs just over $100.
Price at time of publish: $101.
Key Specs Materials: "Energy returning biofoam” (per manufacturer) * Size options: 20x32” * Thickness: 3/4-inch at highest point * Care instructions:* None given
Serious Eats / Fred HardyThe Competition* Gorilla Grip Anti-Fatigue Cushioned Comfort Mat: Although we liked its variety of colors and patterns, this mat had lower-density foam than its competitors, making it lightweight and not supportive enough for long-term use. The beveled edges and corners curled up slightly, which could cause tripping. * Amazon Basics Anti-Fatigue Standing Mat: Despite its appealing XL length, this mat's ultra-firm texture wasn’t much better than standing directly on the floor. Due to its industrial aesthetic and almost perfect stain resistant topper, we felt it would fare better as an entryway mat or at a garage workbench. * Sky Solutions Anti-Fatigue Mat: This mat was the least expensive—and poorest performer—of all we tested. A slick, slippery surface, too-hard firmness, and sloppily printed design were too much to compromise, even in exchange for an sub-$25 price tag. * FEATOL Anti Fatigue Standing Mat: Although this mat had the tallest profile of any we tested, it was far from the comfiest. Its textured, intricate waffle-weave pattern also made it impossible to clean—the grooves were a magnet for stains, pet hair, and crumbs. * ComfiLife Anti-Fatigue Floor Mat: A slight sheen and texture on the surface highlighted the stain during our cleaning test. Its lightweight construction, flared corners and poor spring back made it an underwhelming option.
FAQsWhat size anti-fatigue mat should you buy? Anti-fatigue mats come in a variety of sizes. Some, like House of Noa, offer multiple lengths and widths. But for most kitchens, the standard 20 by 32 inch mat will work just fine near your cutting board or by the sink. If the design of your kitchen allows for a longer length, it may be worth buying one that covers a larger footprint. But, for the most part, you won’t need extra width—20 inches is plenty of room to work before straying too far from the counter.
What’s the best way to clean an anti-fatigue mat? For everyday cleaning, use a damp cloth to wipe the mat free from crumbs and spills. Bigger messes can be cleaned with a gentle multi- or all-purpose cleaner. It’s best to dry the mat immediately with a dry cloth or towel. Avoid dampening the underside of the mat; if you do, allow it to dry completely before you place it back on the floor. Every mat we tested also stood up to the vacuum (without an agitating beater bar).
Will an anti-fatigue mat ease back pain?According to Dr. Sumner, an anti-fatigue mat's spongy texture leads to “more dynamic foot movement, better circulation, and better rhythmic muscle contraction.”
Serious Eats / Grace KellyAbout six years ago, my boyfriend (now-husband) John fell in love. We were moving in together and went shopping for furniture at a few local roadside antique shops. Our list had chairs, a couch, side tables, and maybe some tasteful decor.
But as I dragged a table across the gravel parking lot at one antique store, I saw John with something strange in his arms: a giant glass bottle. My first thought was: it’s a giant ugly vase. But then I saw him grab some gallon buckets with plastic tubes dangling from them and realized, this was not decor—it was a brewing kit.
For something like 20 bucks, my partner began his beer and brewing love affair, one that has endured as long as our relationship. And throughout these past six years, through him, I’ve learned a whole lot about brewing and drinking beer. One thing he’s taught me is the importance of the beer glass; as with wine, the glass you choose for a pilsner versus a dry-hopped IPA can actually make a difference. I consulted beer and brewing expert Randy Mosher (one of my husband’s beer heroes) to learn more about beer glasses (misconceptions, truths, fallacies), and how the shape of the vessel shapes your drinking experience.
First, Let’s Talk The Shaker Pint—And Why You Shouldn’t Use It to Drink BeerSerious Eats / Vicky WasikHead to any dive bar (or just bar in general), order a beer, and there is a high probability you will be sipping your brew from a 16-ounce shaker pint. This ubiquitous glass has its origins as the glass half of a Boston cocktail shaker; it was never meant to be a beer glass. The shape, which is tall with a slight taper towards the bottom and a flat, wide rim, does a poor job of retaining and channeling flavor and aroma; the wide opening also causes the frothy beer head to dissipate faster than a curved option, like a tulip glass. But, as Mosher notes, it’s here to stay. “I call it the ‘cockroach of beer glasses,’ since they're going to be with us forever,” he says. “They're cheap, too, and stackable, which is essential in bars.”
But beyond affordability and storage practicality, why this became the quintessential glass for serving beer is unclear—though there are a few theories: some suspect it has to do with the rise of big beer, which didn’t require a particularly fancy glass to “enjoy,” since the beer itself wasn’t that remarkable (sorry). Mosher postulates that it was the closest thing we Americans could get to a British “nonick” pint glass without having to put in a special order.
Regardless of how it came to dominate the beer glass scene, we humbly ask you to leave the shaker pint for the mixologists and only use it in cases when whatever you’re drinking doesn’t have much in the way of flavor. To savor a good brew, we instead suggest you grab one Mosher’s favorite glass styles: the tulip.
The Case for a Tulip GlassA Classic Tulip Glass: Spiegelau Beer Classic Tulip GlassesA Modern Tulip-Inspired Glass: Rastal Teku GlassThe tulip glass is lovely in name, form, and function; these upside-down bell-shaped glasses capture and channel aroma into your mouth, not unlike a wine glass. “I really like a kind of tulip glass, about 12-ounces, where there is a bulbous lower half, and the rim flares out gently,” Mosher says. And while you can drink, say, a lager, in a tulip glass, they’re really great for beers where you really want to just luxuriate and appreciate all the flavor happenings going on—think complex stouts, IPAs (unless they’re hopped into oblivion, in which case, it might emphasize the flavors in an overwhelming way), and Belgian beers. My husband and I particularly enjoy savoring Belgian Flanders Red Ale style beers (like the almost cherry-cola/vermouth/wine-like Duchesse De Bourgogne, one of our favorite brews) in a tulip glass.
Serious Eats / Grace KellyIt should be noted, however, that this style of glass isn’t meant to be filled to the brim, just like you wouldn’t fill a wine glass to the top with wine; it defeats the purpose, negating the capture and directing of aroma and instead releasing it into the air.
Similar to the tulip glass is the Rastal Teku glass, which has gained popularity along with the rise of craft beer. This vessel takes the general shape of a tulip glass (though it’s a bit more angular) and pairs it with the stem of a wine glass (keeping your hand from warming the contents), combining the best of both worlds. Mosher notes they are “especially good for pure tasting (as opposed to drinking) since the widest spot is so low, and it doesn't take much beer to fill it to the widest point.”
Serious Eats / Grace KellyMosher also likes to use a smaller, snifter-type glass for stronger, special brews—think a rich, almost syrupy old ale, or a barleywine, which can clock in as high as 11% ABV (let’s just say you wouldn’t to slug a pint of it, or at least, you might not feel too good after if you do).
The Case for Using a Wine Glass to Drink Beer Our Winning Universal Wine Glass: Riedel Vinum Zinfandel/Riesling/Chianti GlassesBefore you cry foul, know that this tip is Mosher-approved. “For conducting tastings, I often use wine glasses,” he says. “I always get a few raised eyebrows and an ‘Ooooh, beer in a wine glass?’ Yes, beer deserves respect, and a wine glass is generally a really good vessel for tasting, provided you don't fill it above the halfway mark.” The tapered bowl shape, which captures aroma, and the stem, which keeps your hand from warming up the beer, are features that lend this glass style to tasting beer—and it doesn’t hurt that you probably already have a few kicking around in your cabinets.
What About Pretty, Specialty Glasses? Are They Functional?An English Dimpled Pint to Get You Started: British Pub Imperial Pint Dimple GlassA Pretty Chalice-Style Glass for IPAs: Spiegelau Craft Beer IPA GlassA Hefeweizen Glass: Spiegelau Hefeweizen GlassesA Pilsner Glass: Libbey Stockholm Pilsner Beer GlassesSome beer glasses just look stunning. Take Bavarian seidels or English dimpled pints, for example: both feature imprints on the sides that, for me, are reminiscent of the glass block walls that people installed in their homes in the 80s; they possess a sort of aquatic beauty, as if you are looking into the glass through ripples. I was curious if the looks have any practicality—do they affect the drinking experience? According to Mosher, it’s all purely aesthetics.
Serious Eats / Grace Kelly“They’re there just to look beautiful and visually amplify the colors of beer,” he says, noting that many dimpled glasses today are “mass-produced versions that were apparently inspired by hand-cutting/polishing on hand-blown ones from the 19th century, especially English ‘pillar’ ale glasses used to showcase the newly popular pale ales circa 1830.”
But just because a glass looks nice doesn’t mean it isn’t a valid drinking vessel. Mosher notes that oftentimes beer glass styles are more of a cultural tradition than anything. “While ales and lagers have a technical difference, [for drinking glasses] it’s more cultural, really,” he says. “I really do like a tall, conical pils glass, as it really shows off the golden shimmer. Chalice-type glasses really do make a Belgian abbey/Trappist beer feel special; Kölsch has those paper-thin 0.2L stange (cylinder); weissbier has the graceful vase. Those are all great, and each enhances the experience in its own way.”
And while certain glasses can enhance the drinking experience, in the end, Mosher recommends having fun with how you serve a pour. “I have a circa 1830 gorgeous, Irish cobalt blue chalice with hops and barley engraved on it, but any beer besides a stout or porter looks absolutely hideous in it,” he says. “Whatever makes you happy, just go for it. There's lots of great things at antique malls, flea markets, and on eBay that have more personality than what you can get off the shelf.”
FAQsWhat is the best beer glass?There really is no right answer to this question, though, like Mosher, we like using a tulip-shaped glass or wine glass for most brews.
What glass should I use to drink an IPA? The answer depends on the style of IPA you’re drinking—a double IPA is probably best served in a short and stout snifter, while a West Coast IPA is fine in a Teku or tulip glass.
Serious Eats / Irvin LinGrowing up, my mother never used rimmed baking sheets. Instead, she had thin, edgeless pans, which she employed exclusively to bake cookies. For roasting meat or vegetables, she’d use either a frying pan or glass casserole dish. I didn’t even know there was a difference between cookie sheets and rimmed sheet pans until I, as a teenager, attempted to roast asparagus for the first time. I coated the spears with olive oil and seasoning, layered them on a cookie sheet, and popped them into the oven. A few minutes later, the smell of burning oil let me know I made a mistake. Without sturdy sides to contain it, all of the fat pooled in one warped edge, then rolled off the pan and onto the bottom of the oven, where it sizzled, then smoked.
It was then I realized how useful rimmed sheet pans are. If you grew up with them (lucky!) or use them regularly, you already know this. Not only are they great at roasting vegetables, they can bake a sheet cake and accommodate an entire dinner’s worth of food. Fit one with a cooling rack to aid in air flow, and they become superior resting trays for cooked meat and fried items.
Most rimmed sheet pans are made of metal like steel or aluminum. And we prefer bare sheet pans over ones coated with a nonstick layer for most cooking tasks, as they can handle extremely high temperatures, making them good vessels for browning and broiling. Rimmed sheet pans can also moonlight as informal serving platters, and keep condiments, kitchen tools, or mise en place tidy while you’re cooking.
During a recent Instagram Q&A, we polled Serious Eats readers on their gear-related questions. A fair share of them were sheet pan-related. So, we compiled a full explainer—with all of your burning baking sheet questions—below.
What is a rimmed baking sheet?Serious Eats / Vicky WasikA rimmed baking sheet is a flat pan with 1-inch edges on all sides. The sides are typically rolled—if they aren’t, we recommend continuing your search for a pan that does have rolled sides; they make for a comfier grip. This pan differs from cookie sheets in its higher profile—cookie sheets tend to have one very short, angled edge, and are open on the three other sides. Rimmed baking sheets also have fairly standardized sizing measurements (a half-sheet size is roughly 18 inches long and 13 inches wide).
They’re also more versatile than cookie sheets, due to their design and construction. Rimmed baking sheets are also colloquially known as sheet pans, baking sheets, or rimmed pans. They’re sometimes also called by their size; most commonly a “half sheet” or “quarter sheet.”
How big is a half sheet pan? How big is a quarter sheet pan? A half sheet pan measures 18 by 13 inches and has 1-inch walls, approximately. This size pan is so-called because restaurants and professional kitchens use full sheet pans—those are 18 by 26 inches. Although you can buy full sheet pans at specialty restaurant supply stores, they’re not a helpful purchase for home cooks: they’re too big for most residential ovens.
A quarter sheet pan is 13 by 9 inches. This less-popular size is actually a smart buy because it’s ideal for cooking smaller portions of food; a helpful thing when you’re only roasting a handful of potatoes or a couple of chicken breasts. (Quarter sheet pans are also fantastic for toaster oven use or baking, say, two portions of cookie dough.) Beyond that, eighth sheet pans—9 by six-and-a-half inches—are less common in the home goods retail sector, but nice to have a few of, as we explain here.
Serious Eats / Vicky WasikIf you have off-brand, very old, or mysteriously sourced baking pans, you may notice that their sizes are slightly off. In fact, I have two half sheet pans from a popular direct-to-consumer cookware company that differ by a half-inch in length. This is likely due to a change in manufacturers, but because they both fit in my oven and can handle high heat without warping, I don’t worry too much about it. (It could mean, however, cooling racks fit differently.)
Does the material of a baking sheet matter? Serious Eats / Irvin LinThe material matters when it comes to choosing high quality baking sheets. In our review of half sheet pans, we found ones made of heavy gauge metal, like aluminized steel and uncoated aluminum, performed better, with more consistent and even temperatures across the surface. They also resisted warping in extreme heats.
The thickness of your sheet pan doesn’t matter as much. Indeed, in our test we discovered that the heaviest was too unwieldy to be useful, no matter how evenly it conducted heat.
The finish of a standard, uncoated sheet pan—matte or shiny—matters only in terms of aesthetics. A matte finish will hide scratches and scrapes, although even these will start to show signs of wear and discoloration with regular use.
Also of note is whether the baking sheet is coated with nonstick material, like ceramic. This extra layer can make cleanup easier, and release food with less sticking. On the other hand, nonstick pans can’t handle as high temperatures as uncoated pans—and their lifespan is shorter as with anything nonstick. This is why we recommend standard, uncoated sheet pans for most cooking tasks.
What size baking sheets should you buy?Serious Eats / Vicky WasikFor most home cooks, half sheet pans and quarter sheet pans are the most useful. Although you can find half sheet pans at many large grocery stores, quarter sheet pans are more widely available online (it’s worth shopping on the web for all rimmed sheet pans anyway, so you have your pick of brands). Eighth sheet pans are also immensely useful, so if you’ve got the space (and they are pretty tiny), keep a few on hand. The key thing here is having a few of whatever size you like. Multiple pans is more efficient—as anyone who’s had to wash a baking sheet in the middle of dinner prep could tell you.
What’s a jelly roll pan? A jelly roll pan is a slightly smaller version (usually 9 or 10 by 14 or 15 inches) of a standard half sheet pan. They’re ideal for cooking sponge cakes, as they’re proportioned to hold a standard amount of cake batter. Jelly roll pans sometimes have a layer of nonstick coating, to help the delicate cake they're named after release from the surface. Like rimmed baking sheets, jelly roll pans have 1-inch edges. If you’re serious about your annual Bûche de Noël, you could invest in a jelly roll pan, though our recipe just calls for a half-sheet pan (as does this jelly roll).
Are sheet pans dishwasher-safe? Serious Eats / Irvin LinMost sheet pans are dishwasher-safe. But just because you technically can do something doesn’t mean you should. Dishwashers can decrease the longevity of a sheet pan because of the high temperatures, agitating wash cycles, and strong detergents—not to mention the discoloration, dulling, and speckling effect on the finish. To protect your pans for years of use, it’s best to wash them by hand using a non-abrasive sponge.
What’s the best way to clean a baking sheet?Most often, you can clean a baking sheet with hot, soapy water and a nonabrasive sponge. Be sure to get into the corners and the underside of the pan, where grease can collect or hide. (Residual fat that gets heated past its smoke point results in a sticky, thick resin over cookware.)
For stubborn stains, like burnt sugar or caked-on grease, you can soak the pan before washing it. Better yet: Apply a paste made from baking soda and water, let it sit, then go to town with a sponge. Let the pan cool completely before washing it; blasting a hot pan with water can contribute to warping.
Finally, embrace the patina. A pristine baking sheet is simply one that doesn’t get used.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubGarlic presses have a controversial history. While they’ve been maligned for producing a harsher and more intense raw garlic flavor, our testing showed that, once cooked, pressed garlic was only slightly stronger than knife-minced garlic. And even then, in longer braises and stews, there might be no discernible difference whatsoever.
“When I'm cooking with garlic, I'm pulling out the press nine times out of 10, because even though it's slightly fussy to clean, it's still faster and easier to use than chopping fresh garlic on a board,” says J. Kenji Lopez-Alt in our unitaskers round-up. We're with Kenji: pressing garlic can be a big timesaver for recipes that require multiple cloves, but only if the garlic press has a large capacity and is easy to clean, allowing you to reset quickly after each press.
Most garlic presses have a few key parts: the hopper that holds the clove, the plunger that pushes against it, and the screen that the clove is forced through to mince it. But there are other designs (some promising, some silly), so we put 12 garlic presses to the test to figure out which one belongs in your utensil drawer.
The Winners, at a GlanceThe Best Garlic Press: OXO Good Grips Soft-Handled Garlic PressA heavyweight press with a large capacity and comfortable handles, this model swiftly minced garlic time and time again. Its self-cleaning attachment helped poke skins clear for easy removal, and its wide-set screen produced the best-tasting and most-consistent results.
The Best Self-Cleaning Garlic Press: Dreamfarm Garject Garlic PressWith its scrape, loosen, and eject system, the Dreamfarm press made continuous pressing a breeze. It also features a larger capacity with bigger screen holes for less-harsh raw garlic.
The Tests Mince Test: We pressed two to three cloves of garlic in each press (depending on the capacity), and compared the size and consistency of the results to a knife-minced clove. We also noted how much force each press needed at max capacity. * Raw Taste Test: We tasted a small amount of garlic (from a single clove) pressed through each garlic press and rated the flavor based on sweetness, pungency, odor, and intensity. We compared our tasting notes to knife-minced garlic. * Unpeeled Clove Test: We pressed one unpeeled cloves through each garlic press that claimed it could handle unpeeled cloves and ranked each based on quality of mince, total yield, and how much force was needed. * Usability and Cleanup Tests:* Throughout testing, we evaluated how comfortable the presses were to hold and use. We also examined the cleaning tools that came with each garlic press and noted how well they removed the garlic skins without getting garlic juice on our fingers. We looked for places where garlic might get trapped in each press, and we cleaned each press thoroughly by hand.
What We LearnedLarge Holes Produced the Best Tasting GarlicSerious Eats / Jesse RaubWhen the cellular walls of garlic are compressed, two enzymes come into contact with each other and form a compound known as allicin. This is what gives garlic its pungent aroma. Garlic presses with a coarser screen seemingly created less cellular wall damage, and were slightly less intense than presses with finer holes. Don’t get us wrong: all of the raw garlic we pressed was extremely intense with a palate-ripping burn, and we wouldn’t recommend eating it raw. But if you are looking for a slightly toned down bite, the OXO Good Grips Soft-Handled Garlic Press was much less harsh than its cousin, the OXO Steel Garlic Press, whose holes were so fine, they produced stringy ribbons of mashed garlic.
Hinge Orientation Was Necessary for LeverageThe forward hinge orientation on the Dreamfarm Garject garlic press provided plenty of leverage.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubIn the best presses, the plunger rested against the screen when fully closed, creating squeezable tension even without garlic in the hopper. These presses had hinges oriented for extra leverage, making it much easier to press through multiple cloves one-handed. Other presses, like the Kuhn Rikon Epicurean Garlic Press, could close fully without any tension between the plunger and screen. We found these models required extra effort and sometimes even two hands to get started.
Most Presses Were Messy and Hard to CleanEven with a swing-out hinge, the Kuhn Rikon garlic press was difficult to clean.Serious Eats / Jesse RaubBecause pressed garlic has such a strong odor, it was disappointing that most presses required removing the leftover garlic remnants by hand. While some presses had self-cleaning tools and brushes, they were still prone to mashed garlic squeezing out around the plunger and ending up in the hinges. Other presses with moveable screens still required the mashed garlic to be hand-plucked to clear them. Even then, deep hoppers, like on the Joseph Joseph Helix Garlic Press Mincer made it difficult to reach the spent cloves. Some of the presses took so long to clean that it would have just been faster to mince a clove with a knife, and relinquishing speed felt like a garlic press dealbreaker.
Comfortable Handles Were AppreciatedSerious Eats / Jesse RaubBoth the OXO Good Grips Soft-Handled Garlic Press and the OXO Steel Garlic Press featured curved handles that fit snugly in your palm, and they also had silicone grips that kept them from slipping. While it didn’t change the effectiveness of the press, a comfortable handle made prolonged use much more bearable that models like the Orblue Garlic Press, which had slippery, cylindrical stainless handles.
Large Capacity Was Key for Easy SqueezingSerious Eats / Jesse RaubMost presses struggled to fit two large garlic cloves in the hopper, which pushed the handles further apart and added extra resistance to the press. The presses that did have a larger hopper made it much easier to press and clear, even if you were just pressing a single clove. A larger hopper also meant that a utensil like a fork could easily reach in and clear out any remaining bits of garlic, making the process quick and efficient.
Always Peel Your ClovesSerious Eats / Jesse RaubMany presses advertised that they could handle an unpeeled clove, and while that was true, it also created twice the mess. Unpeeled garlic was more likely to be smashed backwards and gum up the hinges, and the overall yield was much lower, leaving about 1/3 of each clove still stuck in the press.
The Criteria: What to Look for in a Garlic Press Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe best garlic presses had large capacities, wide press holes, and self-cleaning features that kept your hands clean. They also featured handles that gave firm leverage and were easy to reset, making them a great timesaver for recipes that call for a lot of garlic.
The Best Garlic Press: OXO Good Grips Soft-Handled Garlic PressWhat we liked: With its comfortable handles, self-cleaning grid, and large capacity, we were able to press cloves back-to-back with almost no downtime. The angle of the plunger against the screen also helped create easy leverage, and this press required the least effort out of all the models we tested. With the largest screen holes out of the competition, it won the raw taste test, exhibiting more sweetness and a milder odor, overall only slightly more intense than the knife-minced clove.
What we didn’t like: This model was heavy, and the hinge swings freely. If you’re not careful, it might flip back and rap your knuckles. The cleaning grid is also fairly shallow, meaning it still required a fork or other implement to fully clean it.
Price at time of publish: $25.
Key Specs Materials: Zinc, plastic, silicone * Capacity: 3 medium-sized cloves * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe Best Self-Cleaning Garlic Press: Dreamfarm Garject Garlic PressWhat we liked: This press from Dreamfarm also had a large hopper with wide holes in its screen, but what was really impressive was the scrape, loosen, and eject system built into the hinges. After you press your cloves, reversing the handles triggers a spring driven wedge that scrapes the pressed garlic off of the screen. Continue in that direction, and a cleaning grid pushes the remnants through, loading them onto a spring driven lever that lets you pop the spent skins out. It’s a truly clever system that keeps your hands clean, and the wider-than-tall hopper design also makes it easier to load cloves side-by-side, making the most of its capacity.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubWhat we didn’t like: While the scraper worked like a charm every time, the eject lever struggled to pop every skin out perfectly, only loosening them slightly and requiring one to pick them out by hand. The wider hopper also put cloves closer to the hinges and required more cleaning after pressing. We also found the longer handles were hard to get a grip on with smaller hands. It’s pricey at more than twice the cost of our top pick.
Price at time of publish: $55.
Key Specs Materials: Zinc, plastic * Capacity: 2 cloves * Care instructions:* Dishwasher-safe
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe Competition* Kuhn Rikon Epicurean Garlic Press: This press smashed garlic around the edge of the plunger, making clean up a longer process than most. * OXO Steel Garlic Press: With smaller holes on the screen, the mince from this press was repulsively pungent. The smaller holes clogged easily and were hard to clean. * Williams Sonoma Stainless Steel Garlic Press: The hinged screen on this press flipped back for easier access, but without a self-cleaning tool, the skins needed too much prying to pull free. * Vantic Garlic Press Rocker: It was difficult to reach the high-levels of force needed to roll this press over the garlic, leaving the garlic mostly half-smashed and not minced. * Orblue Garlic Press: A deep but small-capacity hopper meant garlic was smashed into the hinges and skins were tough to remove. * Alpha Grillers Garlic Press and Peeler Set: This press was identical to the Orblue model with all the same hang ups. * Joseph Joseph Garlic Rocker: The holes on this rocker press were extra-wide, meaning what did get pressed was more of a chop than a mince. Plus, it left over half of each clove unpressed and required too much force. * Joseph Joseph Helix Garlic Press Mincer: With a very deep hopper and plastic handles that flexed, it was really hard to clean the screen and find enough leverage to mince the garlic. * Zyliss Susi 3 Garlic Press: This press worked well, but its cleaning tool dislodged frequently and its smaller capacity kept it from being a top pick. * Amco Garlic Press and Slicer: The addition of a slicer on this model made it unwieldy, and the slicer itself was less efficient than using a knife.
FAQsWhat does a garlic press do to the garlic?Garlic presses use a plunger to press the garlic through a screen into a mince-like texture. Because it applies pressure to the garlic, the flavor tends to be more pungent and intense than a clove that was minced by a knife.
Is a garlic press better than chopping?While a garlic press can save time, the results are more intense than if it’s cut or minced by hand. For recipes that use raw garlic, a knife-mince will provide a sweeter taste and milder odor. Garlic that’s cooked, however, loses some of its intensity, and a garlic press can be a great timesaver.
Do I need to peel garlic when using garlic press? Some garlic presses are powerful enough to push through unpeeled cloves, though in our testing, this created more mess and yielded much less garlic than a peeled clove. We recommend always peeling your garlic cloves before pressing, to save time and get more out of your garlic.
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubMy utensil drawer is a nightmare. I admit it: I’m a sucker for gadgets. I’ve got bench scrapers and bowl scrapers, multiple instant-read thermometers, wooden spoons, mini whisks, silicone spatulas, and tongs galore. As handy as some of these kitchen tools are, I don't use them all daily. And the one I do might come as a surprise: because my favorite kitchen tool is an understated small fine mesh strainer.
As a bread baker, it’s perfect for quick-sifting flour when I need to dust a surface. Because I use rice flour to dust my bannetons and regular flour to dust my loaves before scoring with a lame, I love how quick it is to switch between the two. It’s also perfect for when I’m stretching and shaping pizza dough: I can quickly dust the counter I’m working on with white flour and immediately switch to semolina for the peel, to keep the dough from sticking when loading it into the pizza oven. And the same goes for hand-shaping pasta.
It’s also my go-to tool for garnishing dinner. I use a citrus press while cooking, but if I just need a quick hit of lemon juice on some roasted broccoli, it’s going to be hand-squeezed and the strainer catches any pulp and seeds. Or for pizza night: I love hot peppers and giardiniera scattered on a thin crust pie, but the oil they come packed in gets everywhere, and it’s also easy to accidentally rub it into your eye. Since I’m the only hot lover in my house, a quick strain with a small fine mesh strainer set over a ramekin gives me the perfect pizza topping (and saves me a trip to Urgent Care).
Serious Eats / Jesse RaubThe mini mesh strainer is also likely to be found in bars and tearooms, and for good reason. Double-straining cocktails with one ensures no fruit pulp or muddled herbs make their way into your drink, muddying its flavors and yielding an unpleasant texture. I make loose leaf tea throughout the day, and traditional tea brewers, like the gaiwan, don’t have a built-in strainer. A 3-inch strainer fits perfectly across most cups or tea vessels and keeps my teeth free of leaves.
Of course there is one downside: I don’t necessarily want my oolong tea to have an aftertaste of hot peppers. As much as the small fine mesh strainer is a multi-tasking tool, it’s not a bad idea to have a few on hand—otherwise you might be waiting for your dishwasher cycle to finish before you can bake your pizza. Luckily, it’s often an inexpensive piece of equipment, and with how often I use them, what’s the harm in cramming my drawer even fuller?
Small Fine Mesh Strainer OptionsA Comfortable Handled Small Fine Mesh Strainer: OXO Good Grips Mini Mesh StrainerThis strainer features a thicker rubber handle, which is more comfortable for handheld applications, but is slightly bulkier when resting on top of a cup.
A Basic Wire Handle Small Fine Mesh Strainer: Norpro 3-Inch StrainerThis strainer’s simple wire-loop handle helps it balance better on top of cups or mugs, though it's less comfortable to hold.
An Upgrade Small Fine Mesh Strainer: Rösle Small Fine Mesh StrainerThe smaller version of our top full-size fine mesh strainer pick, this model has a wider cup rest and a sturdier mesh for people who want a heavy-duty option.
FAQsWhat do you use a mini strainer for?Mini strainers are a great tool for straining loose leaf tea, cocktails, and mulling spices, and any other strainer application that might be scaled down to a single serving. The smaller size is ideal for resting on top of a single mug or glass, which allows for a more precise straining action right before serving.
What’s the difference between a mesh strainer and a sieve?A mesh strainer and a sieve are essentially the same thing: a wire ring with a metal mesh basket used to sift out larger particles from smaller particles. It can be used to sift flour to remove lumps, strain pasta water, or to allow marinated ingredients to drain.
How do you clean a small fine mesh strainer?Many fine mesh strainers are dishwasher-safe, but if you need to use it sooner, you can hand-wash them as well. Start by soaking the mesh side in soapy water for a few minutes to clean between the wires, then scrub and rinse to remove any leftover residue.
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