Crystal Clear Watchmaking: Recent Episodes

Crystal Clear Watchmaking

Join Luc and Jay every Monday for discussions on watches, brands, gears, springs, and oils - all things watches and watchmaking! If you'd like to learn about watches inside and out, this is the podcast for you!

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Luc and Jay discuss some of the new watches from Watches and Wonders - is the industry moving in the right direction?

Cartier Tanks

Tudor Black Bay 58 Gold

Tudor Black Bay 58 Silver

Rolex Explorers 36mm

Rolex Explorer II

Jeager-LeCoultre Reverso Quadriptique

Green Nautilus

Panerai Marina ESteel Luminor

IWC Big Pilot 43mm

IWC Big Pilot Shock Absorber

Lange 1 Perpetual

Oris Aquispro

Vacheron Les Cabinoteurs

Vacheron American 1921

Vacheron Split Seconds Ulta-Thin

Socials:
Instagram @crystalclearwatchmaking

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A discussion of Waltham, pocketwatch history, and the basics of pocketwatch collecting!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube

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Luc puts down big bucks on a luxury watch and discusses the buying experience. After, we go over the two most important movements released this year.

Grand Seiko GMT

Grand Seiko Seasons Collection - Early Summer

New Zenith El Primero
Hodinkee Article HERE

New Omega Speedmaster Professional

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Luc interviews the co-founders of SNGLRTY, an up-and-coming Swiss watch brand with a brand new complication!

Hard questions are asked and good times had by all :) Join us for a listen!

Website:  https://snglrtywatch.com

Blog: https://blog.snglrty.watch

Instagram: @snglrty_watch

Facebook: @snglrtywatch

Twitter: @snglrtywatch

LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/company/snglrty

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube

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Luc rants about why the luxury watch market is failing for an hour. It's a good rant.

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today Luc and Jay talk about gift ideas for this Christmas!

Links:

Seiko5 Automatic Blue Dial SNK357

The Watch Repairer's Manual

Seiko5 Black Dial Flieger Type B SNK809

Southpaw Leather Goods:
@southpawleathergoods on Instagram

Orient Kamasu

R is for Rolex

Citizen Promaster Diver

Watch Socks

Hamilton Khaki Field

George Daniel's Watchmaking

Christmas Song:
Jesu, Joy of Man's Desiring by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/

Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100189

Artist: http://incompetech.com/

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today Jay and Luc take a moment to talk about brands that could use just a bit more love.

Xeric Watches:
Leadfoot
Vendetta

Autodromo:
Group B Series 2
Ford GT

Brew Watches

Swatch

Orient Kamasu

Citizen:
Super Titanium Armor
Promaster Diver

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today Jay and Luc take a moment to talk about the watchmaker's bench and all the things that annoy the heck out of Luc! The news this week has a couple interesting watches as well!

Parmiagani

Longines Legend Diver Bronze

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today Jay and Luc took a moment to discuss some of the questions posed by our listeners through Instagram, as well as some feedback from a cardiologist!

We also discussed our giveaway, of a  Casioak! Very exciting!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today Luc and Jay talk about what we are actually looking at for our collections! Along the way we talk about Grand Seiko dreams, diabetes, and other random topics!

Links:

Brew Watch Retromatic

King Seiko Historical Edition

Grand Seiko

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date

Rolex Daytona

Seiko Snowflake

Bulgari Octo Finissimo

Black Bay 58

Apple Watch

Oyster Perpetual 41

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today Luc and Jay talk about the new Rolex releases, and also one bonus watch!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today Luc and Jay talk about workin' man's watches - a listener request that was too tempting to resist! Along the way we talk about a Grand Seiko special edition, and the new happenings at the watchmaker's bench.

Links:

Casio W800H-1AV

G-Shock GW-M5610-1BJF

Orient Kamasu

Omega Speedmaster 1957 Limited Edition

Grand Seiko SBGA427

Grand Seiko Shizukuishi

Rolex Explorer

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today Luc and Jay talk with Karel about the process and struggle of starting your own independent watch company - that is manufacturing new and complex time indicators to boot!

Instagram: @barrelhand
Website: https://www.barrelhand.com/

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today Luc and Jay talk about a pile of topics, new acquisitions, struggles on the bench, and discussing some interesting ideas.

Releases:

Blue Bay 58

Parmigiani Tonda GT

Parmigiani Ovale

Chinese Tourbillon

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today Luc and Kevin talk about watch case restorations, and the processes for each type of finish!

Kevin Paul's Instagram: @watchcaserestorations

Google Drive!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today Luc and Jay talk about luxury goods and our thoughts and the economics behind them. Certainly a divisive topic,listen in and share your own thoughts with us!

Watch News:

Waltham Ads

H Moser & MB&F

Czapek Antartique

Antimagnetic examples:

Ulysee Nardin

Patek Phillipe

Examples to collect:

Tissot Antimagnetique (1930's-50's)

Rolex Milguass

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 15,000 Gauss

Bremont Martin-Baker

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII

Panerai Luminor amagnetic

Quote reference

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today Jay and I discuss the path to becoming a watchmaker - hobbiest or pro!

ALSO: I meant Domino's guys :p

Show notes (spoilers!)

Personal attributes:
Steady hands
Patience
Brain for 3D and puzzle solving

The watchmaker trial
Go to Esslinger, buy a 6498 clone, holder, loupe, screwdrivers, and a pair of tweezers (watch repair kit). Take it apart (take photos) and put it back together 20 times, making sure it works at the end every time.
Talk about the balance and impulse jewel.

Still having fun?

Buy a vintage watch, $40, that is not special. Make sure you have hand removal tools and tools to put them back on. Take it completely apart and back together 10 times, working at the end every time.

Still having fun?

Watchmaking George Daniels

AWCI/Mini courses (for hobbiests)
5-day Watch 100: Introduction to Watchmaking
http://awci.com/

Online courses (for hobbiests):
https://learnwatchmaking.com/
https://www.timezonewatchschool.com/WatchSchool/
https://www.watchrepairlessons.com/
YouTube Videos:
https://www.youtube.com/user/jewldood

Watchmaker Schools:
Interviews: make sure you know things!
Free! Many sponsored by companies, which gives you direct access to hiring as well!
WOSTEP http://www.wostep.ch/en
http://veteranswatchmakerinitiative.org/
Your classmates will become contacts
Your instructors can get you jobs
Theory
Updated
Part time job? Bartender?

Apprecenticeship!
Hands-on
Unpaid generally
Almost impossible to find someone willing
Even if someone is willing, who knows if they're good at teaching.
You can only learn what your teacher knows

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today Luc and Jay talk about luxury goods and our thoughts and the economics behind them. Certainly a divisive topic,listen in and share your own thoughts with us!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today Luc and Jay talk about watch news and our expectations for the future to start, then talk about some complications that are actually useful!

Links:

Date window

Chronograph

Power Reserve

Alarm:
Seiko Bellmatic
Vulcain Cricket

World Timer

Thermometer

Self-winding

Moonphase

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Inspired by recent watch news, Luc and Jay talk about a category of complications we have a hard time giving a name to...

Links:

Bugatti Watch
Video

Charming Bird
Video

Slot-Machine Watch
Video

Poker Watch

"Eros" watches

Midnight Planetarium

Haldimann H8

H1

H9

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today Luc & Jay chat about different types of movements, history, and related watches to collect!

OysterQuartz

Mecaquartz

Manual Wind Quartz

Eco-drive

Eco-drive Thermo

Spring Drive

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today Luc & Jay chat about Russian watches, history, and more stuff I've been doing at the watchmaker's bench!

Links:

Main USSR Collection Reference Site

Raketa Big Zero

Raketa Copernicus (black dial)

Raketa Copernicus (crazy hands)

Raketa Copernicus (white dial)

Raketa Atom

Raketa World Time

Raketa Antartica

Raketa Perpetual Calendar

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today we have DM Tiffany Timepieces on to talk about the process of dialmaking, enamel, and case manufacturing in one power hour of watchmaking!

Follow DM Tiffany Timepieces:
Instagram @dmtiffany.timepieces
Youtube Channel

Dial Example for Multiple Techniques

Our socials:
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/crystalclearwatchmaking/
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwygqm1lt0-JqszZ7Hgmiag

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Today Luc & Jay chat about watches, stuff I've been doing at the watchmaker's bench, and why we both got into watches! Bit of a calm episode, join us for a chat :)

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today Luc takes things solo-mode to discuss coronavirus, the decision to cancel Watches & Wonders, and delay Baselworld. A bit of bonus time is taken to discuss these trade shows and their effect in general, and hopes for the future!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today's episode is about dials, the multiple materials and methods used to make them!

Links mentioned:

Jenni Elle YouTube

Cloisonne Enamel Dial

Champleve Enamel Dial

Flinque Enamel Dial

Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Guilloche Dial

Tapisserie/Pantograph Dial

Nautilus

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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News:
https://www.timex.com/m79-automatic-40mm-stainless-steel-bracelet-watch/TW2U29500ZV.html

Easy watch build class:
https://www.awci.com/buildawatch/

Build your own watch guided (not the best website):
http://www.ofrei.com/page524.html

Where to buy tools and stuff:
http://www.ofrei.com/
https://www.esslinger.com/
https://www.cousinsuk.com/

Try to buy a watch repair kit on amazon to get several of the following tools/things in one bundle.

List of things you need:
Watch case (eBay)
Movement (eBay)
Movement ring
Movement holder
Dial (eBay)
Dial protectors
Hands (http://www.ofrei.com/page483.html)
Watch hand tool press
Microfiber cloth
Air blower
Watchmaker screwdrivers
Nail clippers
Loctite 222
Finger cots
Caseback opener
Loupe
Strap

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today's episode is about women's watches, and the markets, demands, and aspirations we have for them! Sierra from Watches with a Woman comes on to tell us what's what!

Watches with a Woman Social Media:
Instagram: @watcheswithawoman
YouTube Channel

Links mentioned:

Royal Oaks

1st Bremont watch

2nd Bremont watch

Blancpain St-Valentin 2017

MB&F Flying T

Trilobe watches

Humism Dasein

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today's episode is about the crazy accusations against YouTube channel Horology House! Luc and Jay talk about what it all means, and take a tangent to talk about Luc's dream watch, and a Chinese "homage" of a Nomos.

Nomos Lambda

Nomos "homage"

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today's episode is about cheating! Luc and Jay talk about Twinkies and diamond impurities before talking about the surprise watches that they swapped between eachother via USPS to try wearing for a week!

Richard Mille

Mille Feuilles (delicious pastry):

A Lange & Sohne (Hand Sizes)

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today's episode is about The quartz crisis! Luc and Jay get wildly off topic before talking about some of the important changes that happened in those desperate times :)

Kanye Watch

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today's episode is about watch movement decorations! Basic explanations for how they're done, and why! Join us for a listen this week and learn a thing or two :)

H Moser Streamliner

Omega Speedmaster

Example of women's precision work!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today's episode is a revist of a watch collection, but this time with some restraint! Join us for a listen this week and see how it turns out!

Links to watches (in order of discussion):

Grand Seiko SBGR253

Timex Q

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date

Autodromo Group B Series 2

Longines Master Collection Moonphase

Longines 1832 Moonphase

Join Luc and Jay every week as we discuss gears, springs, oils, watches, brands - all things watches and watchmaking!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today's episode is all about brands! What's the criteria for this list? Hard to say, but join us for a listen this week and see how it turns out!

Join Luc and Jay every week as we discuss gears, springs, oils, watches, brands - all things watches and watchmaking!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today's episode is all about leather! Our guest, SouthpawLeatherGoods, comes on the show to teach us more about leather and talk about what you should be looking at when buying leather goods!

Check out his Instagram: @southpawleathergoods

Mentioned Links:

Leather supply company:
https://www.tandyleather.com/en/

Good YouTube leatherworking videos

Join Luc and Jay every week as we discuss gears, springs, oils, watches, brands - all things watches and watchmaking!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today's episode is about watch-related Christmas gifts! Our thoughts on what to buy at a range of prices and interests!

Mentioned Gifts:

Springbar tool

Straps:
https://www.bartonwatchbands.com/
https://allwatchbands.com/

Watch Tool Kit

Watch Case

Coffee Table Watch Book/AD catalogue

Casio

Orient Bambino
2nd Link

Seiko Divers
SKX009
SKX013
(Maybe try Long Island Watch?)

Weishi Timegrapher

Watch Trip??

Join Luc and Jay every week as we discuss gears, springs, oils, watches, brands - all things watches and watchmaking!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today's episode is about homages and fakes. Our thoughts on these trends in watch consumerism, and what's okay and not okay!

YouTube Video Mentioned

Join Luc and Jay every week as we discuss gears, springs, oils, watches, brands - all things watches and watchmaking!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today's episode is about watch care. A list of tips on keeping your watch in good shape, and what happens when servicing is needed!

Join Luc and Jay every week as we discuss gears, springs, oils, watches, brands - all things watches and watchmaking!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today's episode is about buying watches. A deep dive on buying at ADs, grey market, eBay, and what are the upsides and pitfalls of one over the other?

Join Luc and Jay every week as we discuss gears, springs, oils, watches, brands - all things watches and watchmaking!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today's episode is about quartz vs mechanical watches. A deep dive on how they work, and why do we prefer one over the other?

Promised links:

Watch Cutaway Drawing

Join Luc and Jay every week as we discuss gears, springs, oils, watches, brands - all things watches and watchmaking!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today's episode revolves around trends. Which are the worst, and where do we disagree?

Promised links:

Our YouTube Humism Review

Humism
Bonus YouTube Ad

Jay's New Watch

The Replica

The MB&F ladies watch

Join Luc and Jay every week as we discuss gears, springs, oils, watches, brands - all things watches and watchmaking!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Today's episode revolves around materials. White gold? Platinum? Steel? What are the uses, upsides, downsides, and challenges of each material? Listen in to learn!

Join Luc and Jay every week as we discuss gears, springs, oils, watches, brands - all things watches and watchmaking!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel

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Luc and Jay share what watches they would buy for a five watch collection, if they had infinite money!

Promised links (SPOILERS!)

Luc's List:
1. Grand Seiko (SBGA211) "Seiko Snowflake"

  1. Panerai Radiomir (1940 vintage case)

  2. A Lange & Sohne - 1815 Tourbillon

  3. 1954 Navitimer (pre 806)

  4. Deep Space Tourbillon (Vianney Halter)

BONUS VIDEO

Jay's List:
1. Rolex GMT Master II

  1. Patek Philippe Nautilus

  2. Bulgari Octo Finissimo

  3. Tudor Black Bay 58

  4. Apple Watch 5

Join Luc and Jay every week as we discuss gears, springs, oils, watches, brands - all things watches and watchmaking!

Socials:
Insta: @crystalclearwatchmaking
YouTube Channel