The Designers Must: Recent Episodes
Philip
Ever wondered what folks in the fashion/clothing industry do? Who are the the folks that built the A-list fashion houses? Learn from professionals from a variety of professions in the industry, how they got to where they are, myths and facts about clothes, and what they think of the future of fashion.
The apparel industry isn't all fun and games, arts and crafts. For the most part, it's a business.
The new factory and I seem to be getting along well. We're making some steady progress to get things ready for production.
But I don't want to get too comfortable. I think if everything's going well here, I need to tighten up other areas that aren't as healthy...like those photos I don't have.
I found 8 factories in NYC who all said they could make my pants. I reviewed all 8 samples. In hindsight I talk about my evaluation process regarding the construction and interiors. The actual review will be in my next YouTube video.
My YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/@AmericanBreakfastNYC
Eight factories in NYC, one pair of pants—what should be identical quickly becomes an experiment in quality, communication, and trust. This episode explores what a designer thinks about as he looks for a manufacturing.
An update covering Feb 2026. I digitized my pattern, which was worth it's own separate video.
Video of Digitizing the Pattern: https://youtu.be/j5XqWhg4EAQ?si=gep5HhCiAIfPDLsb
I have the luxury of time to make sure I get the best clothes I possibly can. So I'm working with a number of different factories in NYC to determine which is best for my needs. You can follow along - just stay tuned to the podcast!
Monthly update for Jan 2026
I am preparing for factories to make samples of my pants. Some hiccups along the way, but I'm trying my best to review everything beforehand.
Short updates on swim trunks, single breasted jacket, and sweater as well.
My first YouTube video (referenced in episode) is also available at: https://youtu.be/vAM_pMY_psA
In this first episode of American Breakfast, I talk about why I’m starting a men’s clothing brand and why I’m obsessed with getting pants right. I get into what’s gone wrong so far—from samples that don’t match the pattern to the hunt for a factory I can trust—and why I decided to share the whole process as it happens.
I'm testing the waters and shifting from longer podcast episodes to shorter videos on Youtube, hence the Vlog designation. You can check them out at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMoEq3HYxB416Hb0C0d19Zg. These Vlog uploads are audio extracts from the video.Yup. Menswear darling Equus filed bankruptcy earlier in 2023, but ANOTHER even more shocking bankruptcy will be filed in a few days (not yet public knowledge). This is my (hot) take.
I'm testing the waters and shifting from longer podcast episodes to shorter videos on Youtube, hence the Vlog designation. You can check them out at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMoEq3HYxB416Hb0C0d19Zg. These Vlog uploads are audio extracts from the video.
As a clothing channel, I thought I would start by aligning on the definition of clothing.
I do a quick Q&A after reflecting on some of the most common questions I've been asked since I started making clothes.If you'd like to have your questions answered, send me an email at thedesignersmust@gmail.com.
Laura Zwanziger, founder of Fit for Everybody and former knitwear designer at Oscar de la Renta, is designing something new these days: a way to bring the apparel design process to the present (I'd say future, but the process is still stuck mostly in the pre-internet age). Please check out the website and Instagram for more details.One of the items mentioned in the episode can be found at the Fit for Everybody blog.
I believe it is important to have a philosophy on how I create a product. Because the ideas are limitless and I like to have a way to reel myself in and keep things consistent and cohesive. Everyone can do anything, so I think what makes each person special is 'how' something is done and how strongly the end result adheres to the overall philosophy of doing things.
Anyway, enough theory crafting. In this episode, I try to explain how I design my clothes.
I am a terrible podcaster. I realized I have never introduced myself and given my background. So due to the delay in some of my projects and the unavailability of guests due to the amount of work right now, I wanted to share who I am and why I am making clothes.
It has been a quiet few months lately, yet I felt obligated to share what is going on behind the scenes. So I've uploaded a short episode detailing some of the major projects in progress and the latest update on each. They include turtlenecks, trousers, jackets, and shirts.
I've been designing a turtleneck (thank you if you've been supporting me with feedback) and I wanted to share the backstory of the project given it's (tiny) publicity and its up and down life. The project has in fact died multiple times and possibly again this week.
In this last of two episodes, I will share what happened this year and what ultimately ended the project.
I've been designing a turtleneck (thank you if you've been supporting me with feedback) and I wanted to share the backstory of the project given it's (tiny) publicity and its up and down life. The project has in fact died multiple times and possibly again this week.
In this first of two episodes, I will share how the beginnings of the project, how it came to be, how it started, and in the following episode I will share what happened this past year and focus on its's most recent death.
Anthony T. Kirby has been in the fashion industry for over 30 years. He's been at Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, and Crockett & Jones to name a few brands. For the past few years he's concentrated on his own brand, FINICKEY, which specializes in ties and pocket squares. Ties are the subject of this discussion, so tune in to hear what neckwear honcho Anthony T has to say!
You can check out the brand's website at https://www.finickey.us/.
Instagram link: https://www.instagram.com/finickey/
Twitter handle: @MRHABERDASH2
FB: https://www.facebook.com/mrhaberdash
My blog: https://thedesignersmust.wordpress.com/
Previous podcast guests Tony Rubino (menswear pattern maker) and George (NYC Garment District factory owner) return!
My blog: https://thedesignersmust.wordpress.com/
Sofia Burnett (née Ramsay) talks about her eponymous brand Sofia Ramsay and how she began designing jewelry all in NYC. You can check out both her brands at https://sofiaramsay.com/ and https://reginajack.com/.
My blog: https://thedesignersmust.wordpress.com/
George manages the clothing factory his parents and uncle started when he was a kid. He returns for a few minutes to share how clothing specs are shared in the factory.
My blog: https://thedesignersmust.wordpress.com/
George manages the clothing factory his parents and uncle started when he was a kid. Listen in as he shares the details of making clothes at a factory in Manhattan's Garment District.
My blog: https://thedesignersmust.wordpress.com/
You can tell Tony Rubino is a native New Yorker. He gets to the point when he has an opinion and isn't afraid to say it. He talks about pattern making, the process of designing clothes to the finished product, and the changes that he's witnessed in the NY clothing business over the past half century.
If you have questions you'd like Tony to answer in later recordings, please write them in the comments!
My blog: https://thedesignersmust.wordpress.com/
Bespoke shoemaker Perry Ercolino talks about customer service, sneakers, and sweaty feet.
Part 10 in a series.
If you have questions you'd like Perry to answer in later recordings, please write them in the comments!
Perry's website: https://www.perryercolino.com/
My blog: https://thedesignersmust.wordpress.com/
Bespoke shoemaker Perry Ercolino talks about J Peterman, Stefano Bemer, and 2020.
Part 6 in a series.
If you have questions you'd like Perry to answer in later recordings, please write them in the comments!
Perry's website: https://www.perryercolino.com/
My blog: https://thedesignersmust.wordpress.com/
Bespoke shoemaker Perry Ercolino talks about buying bespoke shoes and shoe care.
Part 4 in a series.
EDIT: Perry wanted to append a note. The technical term for salt stains on shoes when they get wet is “salt spew”. It’s the chromium tanning salt that leeches out through the substrate onto the surface of the leather.
If you have questions you'd like Perry to answer in later recordings, please write them in the comments!
Perry's website: https://www.perryercolino.com/
My blog: https://thedesignersmust.wordpress.com/
Bespoke shoemaker Perry Ercolino shares his career path and his thoughts on the future of fashion.
If you have questions you'd like Perry to answer in later recordings, please write them in the comments!
Perry's website: https://www.perryercolino.com/
My blog: https://thedesignersmust.wordpress.com/
Bespoke shoemaker Perry Ercolino continues the conversation about shoemaking, touching on leather, apprentices, and the spread of shoemaking.
If you have questions you'd like Perry to answer in later recordings, please write them in the comments!
Perry's website: https://www.perryercolino.com/
My blog: https://thedesignersmust.wordpress.com/
Bespoke shoemaker Perry Ercolino talks about his beginnings, bespoke shoes, and the deleterious effects of shoes that don't fit.
Part 1 in a series.
If you have questions you'd like Perry to answer in later recordings, please write them in the comments!
Perry's website: https://www.perryercolino.com/
My blog: https://thedesignersmust.wordpress.com/
Bespoke shoemaker Perry Ercolino talks about women's shoes and specialty leathers.
Part 7 in a series.
If you have questions you'd like Perry to answer in later recordings, please write them in the comments!
Perry's website: https://www.perryercolino.com/
My blog: https://thedesignersmust.wordpress.com/
Bespoke shoemaker Perry Ercolino fields a number of questions from exotic leathers to SPI.
Part 8 in a series.
If you have questions you'd like Perry to answer in later recordings, please write them in the comments!
Perry's website: https://www.perryercolino.com/
My blog: https://thedesignersmust.wordpress.com/
Hertling USA is one of the best trouser manufacturers in the US since 1925. They recently started selling direct to customers and Mac Gutowski is there to assist in the transition. Mac talks about upcoming projects at Hertling and how he's making a difference for a storied menswear factory.
My blog: https://thedesignersmust.wordpress.com/
Bespoke shoemaker Perry Ercolino talks about welting, breaking in shoes, and socks.
Part 5 in a series.
If you have questions you'd like Perry to answer in later recordings, please write them in the comments!
Perry's website: https://www.perryercolino.com/
My blog: https://thedesignersmust.wordpress.com/