The Eco Well podcast: Recent Episodes
Jen@theecowell
In this show, Jen Novakovich, Canadian cosmetic chemist from The Eco Well, interviews international cosmetic scientists and industry leaders to bring you a fresh new conversation a week about all things beauty!
This week's episode goes on a deep dive into corporate sustainability - specifically, why isn’t it working? Over the last few decades, we’ve seen lots of new reporting requirements for companies. On the flip side, during that same time frame where sustainability has become fashionable, things have gotten, for the most part, worse. This episode features Dr. Mark Trexler from Climatographers on where have we gone wrong? And what can we do about it?
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please share, subscribe and write a review! If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon which you can find at patreon.com/theecowell
Why is the media so rife with inaccurate reporting on epidemiological studies? To help guide us through this topic, I was joined with Gideon M-K PhD, epidemiologist, fact checker and content creator. We go through what epidemiology research looks like and some of the inherent challenges, research bias, the sensationalism pipeline that benefits everyone… except the public, a few examples of recent headlines and the studies connected to them, and more.
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please share, subscribe and write a review! If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon which you can find at patreon.com/theecowell
Why is the media so rife with inaccurate reporting on epidemiological studies? To help guide us through this topic, I was joined with Dr Gidion MK, epidemiologist, fact checker and content creator. We go through what epidemiology research looks like and some of the inherent challenges, research bias, the sensationalism pipeline that benefits everyone… except the public, a few examples of recent headlines and the studies connected to them, and more.
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please share, subscribe and write a review! If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon which you can find at patreon.com/theecowell
With the press around "forever chemicals" and the moving regulations related to biodegradation, the topics of biodegradation and persistence are increasingly important to understand. This episode is a deep dive into the topic, featuring Chris Hughes from Embark Chemical Consulting. Disclaimer, this one is a little more into the weeds, but a good 101 if you want to get a handle on the topic!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please share, subscribe and write a review! If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon which you can find at patreon.com/theecowell
The skin microbiome and products geared to supporting it have been a hot topic in beauty for the last decade.Where are we at with the science? What is the skin microbiome, how do cosmetics interact with it, what are common misconceptions, and what does a healthy skin microbiome look like… or do we even know that yet? This podcast featured microbiologist Dr Kristin Neumann from MyMicrobiome
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please share, subscribe and write a review! If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon which you can find at patreon.com/theecowell
What is up with endocrine disruption in beauty? There is so much about this topic in the media, seemingly disproportionately focused on cosmetics. What does it all mean, where is the science and are the concerns actually relevant? This week, Dr Lyle Burgoon is back for a deep dive into the topic.
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please share, subscribe and write a review! If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon which you can find at patreon.com/theecowell
What do we mean when we say science integrity? What is good evidence, and how is evidence incorporated at a policy level? This was the topic of this podcast, which featured toxicologist Lyle Burgoon PhD.
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please share, subscribe and write a review! If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon which you can find at patreon.com/theecowell
This episode focused on the issue of misinformation and bad behaviour in the science and medical influencer space. Disclaimer, special attention was given to the rise of dermfluencers. This episode featured a roundtable discussion between dermatologist Anjali Mahto MD, cardiologist Rohin Francis MD, immunologist Andrea Love PhD and cosmetic chemist Michelle Wong PhD.
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please share, subscribe and write a review! If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon which you can find at patreon.com/theecowell
This episode features the pre-recorded conversation of the scicommer panel I moderated at NYSCC Suppliers Day earlier this month, brought to you by the Independent Beauty Association, and in conversation with Kenton Hipsher, who is on the ingredient supply side of things, Erica Douglas, aka sisterscientist, from the contract manufacturer POV, and Dr Andrea Love from the consumer misinformation impact side of things. This conversation looked at misinformation along the supply chain and production of cosmetic products.
This episode features a deep dive conversation into the world of research fraud, featuring research fraud researcher Reese Richardson. What is the issue, why is it happening, and how should we think about all of this when we’re thinking about the quality of scientific research and science itself. We also explored turmeric research as a case example of research fraud in action and the impacts that’s had both on society.
This weeks’ episode features the pre-recorded pre-show run of the Sustainability in Cosmetics panel I moderated at NYSCC Suppliers Day in new york a few weeks ago! In conversation with Amol Kirtikar, Senior Manager of Sustainability & Innovation Americas at Clariant, Kurt Reynertson PhD, Global Lead for Ingredient Policy at Kenvue and Akemi Ooka PhD, Head of Global Supply Chain and Sustainability Resources at Independent Beauty Association - the main topic of the panel was around how sustainability misinformation is impacting the cosmetics sector’s ability to pursue sustainable development, and steps moving forward. This conversation was made possible by Clariant, who are the sponsors for this podcast episode.
This podcast featured a 101 about the timeline of product development; from brief to formulation to testing to scale up. To help us cover the topic, this episode featured Lorna Radford from ENKOS. Hope you enjoy the conversation as much as I did!
Somehow I still haven't covered oral care on the podcast, so to help fix that, this week's episode features oral care formulation chemist Natalie Hendrix! This episode was a 101 on the topic - hope you enjoy it as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please share, write a review and subscribe! If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon page that you can find at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This episode is an extension of the cosmetic formulation myth busting fireside chat with Gabriella Baki PhD that happened at the Skincare E-Summit in December! 20 minutes just wasn't enough!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please share, subscribe and write us a review! If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon page that you can find at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This podcast features Milan Scott, otherwise known as @thecosmescientist in a conversation about diversity and inclusion. From the POV of what’s happening in the wider industry, formulations and what’s currently available on the market, to current gaps that should be addressed.
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please share, write a review and subscribe! If it's accessible, we also have a patreon page that you can find at Patreon.com/theecowell
This podcast features a conversation about the current state, and future, of indie beauty, in conversation with Kelly Kovack from BeautyMatter, Rob Akridge PhD from OPULUS Beauty Labs, and Akemi Ooka PhD from Independent Beauty Association. This was the closing panel for our So, You Want to Start a Beauty Brand? E-Summit - find the full replay on our blog! Interested in supporting the podcast? Please share, subscribe and consider writing a review. If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon page that you can find at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This episodes features a deep dive conversation into silicones in cosmetics; what are they, why are they so useful, and what are some of the environmental draw backs we're currently contending with. To help me tackle the topic, this week I was joined by Mike Fevola PhD. Hope you enjoy the conversation as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please share, write a review and subscribe! If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon page that you can find at patreon.com/theecowell
This pocast features a 101 on the current state of animal testing in cosmetics featuring toxicologist Barae Jomaa PhD. We cover why animal testing testing started in the first place and what prompted all the animal testing bans we see today, the history of animal testing bans globally, alternative test methods, misconceptions, the REACH vs EC conflict we're seeing today, and lots more!
Interested in supporting the show? Please leave us a review wherever you listening, subscribe and share! If it's accessible to you, we also have a Patreon page which you can find at patreon.com/theecowell
This week's episode is a 101 on cosmetics formulations; what are the ingredient types that make your products work and why? What’s up with surfactant and preservative systems? What’s the difference between skin and hair care, what’s an emulsion, and what do you need to know about pH? o help me cover the topic, this week featured Ava Perkins, PhD student at the University of Cincinnati in their cosmetic science program.
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please share and give us a review! If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon page that you can find at patreon.com/theecowell
This podcast features an acne 101 conversation with dermatologist Dr Mara Evanglista-Huber MD, otherwise known as @dermomtology.
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please subscribe, review and share! If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon page which you can find www.patreon.com/theecowell
This podcast was about false balance; what it is, how to spot it and what the greater issue with it is. What's wrong with public form debates on science? Particularly on topics that have a lot of evidence to support one POV vs a fringe viewpoint. For example, sunscreens aren't the cause of coral bleaching, widely supported by the evidence, vs it is, supported by outlier data. This episode features Canadian sci-comm treasure, Tim Caulfield for our 2023 finale!
This week's episode is a cosmetic chemists reaction episode, featuring the POV of cosmetic science PhD student Lanesa Mahon @raya.faces and myself. Topic: beauty trends. Trends we reacted to include: microbiome skincare, biotech beauty, menopausal skincare, dermatologist brands, green beauty and more!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This podcast episode is a 101 on microplastics in beauty. What do we mean when we say "plastic" and "microplastic"? What's the microplastic issue like in beauty? To help me cover the topic, this week I was joined with microplastic researcher, Laura Markley PhD. Enjoy!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on patreon at www.patreon.com/theeecowell
This is a replay of a panel I moderated at the SCC California Suppliers Day, presented by Independent Beauty Association. The conversation was broadly about the impacts of misinformation in beauty, and opportunities for course correction. Panelists included some of my favorite LA based sci-commers; Allison Kent-Gunn @allisonturquoise, Javon Ford @javonford16, Jane Tsui @janethechemist and Valerie George @cosmetic_chemist. Enjoy!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
What is the current state of animal testing in cosmetics? Why has it happened, does it still happen - if so, where and why? And where are we at with alternatives? New podcast alert! Our latest episode featured Dr. Carol Treasure from XCellR8, an animal-free in-vitro safety testing lab. There’s so much complexity to this topic, and I think there have been some seriously missed opportunities from the cosmetics industry for communicating what’s happening and has happened. I hope the episode does the topic justice. Enjoy!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
A deep dive into claims with claims expert, Craig Weiss of Consumer Product Testing. What do the claims you see on labels actually mean? What's a strong claim and what's just puffery? And how can you as a consumer more effectively read labels? This podcast explored all this and more!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This podcast features a 101 episode on toxicology, featuring toxicologist Dr Pushpa Rao. With all the noise and confusion about product safety out in the zeitgeist, I thought this was an important topic to cover. We covered the basics of what toxicology is, how it’s applied to cosmetics, fundamental toxicology themes like hazard and risk, safety substantiation, misconceptions, and more!
Interested in supporting the podcast on Patreon? Find us at www.patreon.com/theecowell
There have been so many class action lawsuits in beauty over the last few years. What does it all mean? Are products on the market unsafe? Have these lawsuits become a cost of business in the USA? Are they making products safer? To help me unpack the topic, this weeks episode featured Avril Love, counsel at K&L Gates. Enjoy!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us at Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This episode featured hair scientist, Dr Crystal Porter from Mane Insights, in a deep dive into curly hair. We dove into the nitty gritty of the structure of curly hair, and the science behind keeping it in good shape. Hope you enjoy the episode as much as I did! Quick edit - in this episode, Crystal mentioned "consumer scientist." She meant "citizen scientist" :).
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This episode features a deep dive into state law, featuring Dr. Simone Swafford, regulatory consultant at Vogue Regulatory. What’s happening at the state level in terms of cosmetic regulations, and how does that impact both industry as well as consumers? We specifically dive into how misinformation is driving some of the recent legislative developments.
Big thanks to Essential Labs for sponsoring this episode. Use the code ELABSPOD for 15% off!
Interested in supporting the podcast on Patreon? Find us at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This week's episode featured Bart Maxon - cosmetic scientist, creator of 20 patents, and recent recipient of the SCC Merit Award. Important to this conversation, he's achieved all of this as a 4’6” achondroplasia dwarf who's had several spinal surgeries, operating in an industry where accessibility has been an ongoing improvement for those with disabilities. I'm really inspired by Bart's story. From being told that he'd never work in a lab, to becoming a Senior Development Scientist at Dow. In this conversation, we talked about diversity and inclusion, through the lens of individuals with disabilities. What are we doing right as an industry, and where do we need to improve?
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This episode featured the closing panel from Michelle @labmuffinbeautyscience and my Sunscreen E-Summit, which happened a few weeks ago. On the topic of Challenges and Opportunities for the Suncare Sector. In conversation with Meredith Petillo, Senior Director of Technical & Regulatory Services at IBA, Stan Krus, Senior Technology Manager Sun Care at BASF, Carl D’Ruiz, Head of Personal Care and Pharma Regulatory and Scientific Affairs at DSM, and Michelle Wong, PhD. Enjoy!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This episode was about beauty science communication, from the perspectives of Michelle @labmuffinbeautyscience and me. What is sci-comm, why is it important, what are some of the challenges, and importantly, why are there so few sci-commers able to make sci-com a full-time, long-lasting endeavor? In this episode, Michelle and I announce the social enterprise we've been working on together: Beauty Sci-Comm Group.
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us at Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell. Massive thank you to all of our Patreon supporters for helping make this show possible!
New podcast! This week, we tried something a little different with a Toxicologist Reacts episode, featuring Tony Simion, Ph.D. Industry veteran and adjunct professor. You guys sent in media headlines and posts, and we responded. Disclaimer, before I go on here; all the views expressed in this post and podcast are all in our honestly held opinions. I hope by the end of this episode, it’s clear who that is for when it comes to cosmetic product safety.
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon.com/theecowell
This week’s episode took a look at MoCRA - What’s happening? What do we know? How is going to impact industry, and also consumers? There has been a lot of noise about MoCRA, what does it all mean? To help me do this topic justice, for this podcast I was joined by Kerry Tassopoulos, Of Counsel and a corporate, regulatory and compliance attorney with Platt Cheema Richmond PLLC.
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This episode featured the closing panel for our Sustainable Beauty E-Summit that happened back in January on Sustainability Challenges and Opportunities for the Cosmetics Sector. We came at the topic of sustainability challenges and opportunities from a wide scope of expertise. Featuring Akemi Ooka, Ph.D., Head of Global Supply Chain and Sustainability Resources at the Independent Beauty Association, Mike Fevola, Ph.D., Vice President of R&D at Inolex, and Mark Trexler, Ph.D., director at The Climatographers. Enjoy!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This week, we covered the topic of corporate sustainability management and reporting through the lens of… is this actually going to help combat climate change? From measuring greenhouse gases to carbon offsetting, is current corporate sustainability and policy pointing us in the right direction? Or is there potential for it to do more harm than good? Joining me for this conversation is Dr. Mark Trexler from The Climatographers. Enjoy!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please subscribe and write a review. If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon page. Find us at www.patreon.com/theecowell. Massive thank you to all of our Patreon supporters for helping make this podcast possible!
This episode featured a conversation with Tim Caulfield, Canadian sci-comm treasure, prof at the University of Alberta, and author of books like Is Gwenyth Paltrow Wrong about everything? A few months ago Tim participated in a “clean” beauty debate - he was anti-clean, against someone else who was pro-clean… In this episode, Tim and I talked about his experience in the debate, his thoughts on why misinformation gains the traction it does, and tips to decipher fact from fiction.
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please subscribe and write a review. If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon page. Find us at www.patreon.com/theecowell. Massive thank you to all of our Patreon supporters for helping make this podcast possible!
Our latest episode featured Javon Ford - fellow cosmetic chemist and beauty scicommer - in an AMA style interview. You guys sent in questions, we tried our best to answer! From bunk marketing claims to how to become a cosmetic chemist, we covered a lot! Hope you enjoy the convo as much as I did.
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please subscribe and write a review. If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon page. Find us at www.patreon.com/theecowell. Massive thank you to all of our Patreon supporters for helping make this podcast possible!
For this week's episode, we take a deep dive into regulations that impact the cosmetics industry, with a focus on the USA market and the many misconceptions people have about it. Are products sold in the EU actually safer than those in the USA? Spoiler alert, the answer is no, and in this conversation, we dive into the why that’s the case.
IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER - THIS PODCAST WAS RECORDED BEFORE MOCRA. THE FDA NOW HAS RECALL AUTHORITY. Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This was a live panel discussion in LA, hosted by the Independent Beauty Association and moderated by yours truly, about science communication in the cosmetics space. In conversation with Esther Olu (@themelaninchemist), Gloria Lu and Victoria Fu (@chemist.confessions), and Valerie George (Co-host of The Beauty Brains Podcast, @cosmetic_chemist). Extra shout out to the Gold sponsor for this event, Federal Package, Silver sponsors, Prestige Testing, CIS (insurance), NYSCC Suppliers Day, and other event sponsors, Gordon Labs, Coptis, Croda, and Beauty Matter.
Interested in supporting The Eco Well Podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
Kicking off our first episode back for 2023 with a deep dive into intimate care and hygiene - a space gaining a lot of traction in the beauty industry. There are so many products launching of late to purportedly address all of your sexual wellness needs - from vulvar washes to enlargening breast creams. To give us a lay of the land, I was joined by Dr. Tanaya, aka Dr. Cuterus. Enjoy!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Please subscribe and write a review. If it's accessible, we also have a Patreon page. Find us at www.patreon.com/theecowell. Massive thank you to all of our Patreon supporters for helping make this podcast possible!
Is 'clean' beauty actually making cosmetics safer? This was the closing panel of our latest e-conference, the 'Safe' Beauty E-Summit. Topic: How is misinformation in the beauty world impacting cosmetics product safety, and how can we start to course correct? Panelists included Michelle Wong Ph.D. AKA @labmuffinbeautyscience, Esther Olu AKA @themelaninchemist, and Lalita Iyer AKA @skinchemy. Main take home: If we want to pull ourselves out of the BS Bandwagon we've ended up in the cosmetics industry, good science communication needs support. Hope you enjoy this episode as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This was a curly hair AMA episode, featuring Heleen Kibbelaar, the brains behind @sciencemeetscosmetics - one of my favorite hair science accounts on IG. Hope you enjoy the episode as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the show? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This episode was a cosmetics contract manufacturing 101 featuring Richie Rubin, Executive Vice President at Garcoa. What it looks like, what brand founders should know as they navigate the space and common challenges. If you're considering launching a cosmetic brand, or are interested in learning about the behind-the-scenes of getting products onto the market, this conversation was information packed. Hope you enjoy the episode as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This week I talked with Dr. Andrea Love and Dr. Jess Steier, immunologist, and public health scientist, respectively, and hosts of the Unbiased Science Podcast. We dove into the weeds about health and wellness misinformation online. What’s the problem, how did we get here and why does it matter? Hope you enjoy the episode as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the show? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This week we look at the tumultuous world of supply chains. How did we get here? And when are things going to go back to normal? Are things ever going to go back to the way they were pre-pandemic? Joining me this week is Tony Hoth, supply chain expert and General Manager of Global Distribution at SharkNinja. Hope you enjoy the conversation as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the show? Find us on patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
ESGs are one of those topics that, IMO, everyone should understand. And what they do and do not mean. For better or worse, ESG ratings will, and already are, have a profound impact on how business is done, on emerging regulations, and in the world of corporate investment. There's a lot to unpack. For this week's episode, I was joined by Gracee Shorter, who is a sustainability solutions provider at Ecovadis to help break it down. Enjoy!
Interested in supporting the show? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
An honest conversation about the body of evidence related to sunscreen, and it's benefits, for skin of color. In conversation with dermatologist and skin cancer researcher, Dr Ade Adamson.
Want to support the show? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This episode featured fellow cosmetic chemist, Lalita Iyer, otherwise known as @skinchemy. A 101 on cosmetic regulations in the US. We broke down myths and misconceptions, and also have some general tips for brands in navigating the space. Hope you enjoy the episode as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the show? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
And we're back! Kicking off season 7 with a convo feat Dr Rohin Francis, otherwise known as MedLife Crisis, about (medical) experts behaving badly online. Enjoy!
Interested in supporting the show? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
Featuring Lalita Iyer @skinchemy, Esther Olu @themelaninchemist & Michelle Wong @labmuffinbeautyscience. A few weeks ago you guys sent in questions via IG, in this episode we tried to answer them all! This is our last podcast before we take a summer break to record more for the next season. We’ll be back with our podcast in September! Thanks to everyone who tuned in to season 6!
Interested in supporting the show? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This episode featured Adam Ford, Ph.D. Canada Research Chair in Wildlife Restoration Ecology at UBC, on the topic of misplaced conservation. What it is, how it happens and why we should care. While misplaced conservation may seem like something far removed from cosmetics, as you’ll hear once we get started, it really isn’t. The misinformation in our space has a tremendously negative impact, including potentially on conservation efforts. With that, I’ll leave you with the episode. Enjoy!
Interested in supporting the show? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
Hope you enjoy the convo as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the show? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
A few weeks ago, Michelle @labmuffinbeautyscience and I launched the Sunscreen E-Summit. As part of the conference, we hosted this e-panel about how misinformation is impacting the sunscreen sector, featuring Michelle Wong, Ph.D., Thomas Myers from the PCPC, and Myriam Sohn, Ph.D. from BASF. So many important insights, hope you enjoy the conversation as much as I did! If you would like to catch up on the full e-summit, you can find a conference replay on our blog!
Interested in supporting our work? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This week's episode featured plant scientist, Professor Monique Simmonds from the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. She is my literal idol in this space, and it was such a treat to pick her brain on the topic of botanical safety and sustainability. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did!
This week's episode is sponsored by Herbal Essences, who works closely with KEW to confirm the species and chemical composition of all the botanicals in Herbal Essences bio:renew. Thank you Herbal Essences for making this podcast possible!
There are some potentially big changes coming in the EU regarding chemical management under the new Green Deal which will directly impact the cosmetics industry. Joining us for this episode is regulatory toxicologist, Fred Lebreux Ph.D., CEO at BIORIUS. What's happening, how might it impact the cosmetics sector, and how can brands best prepare for these changes? One of the biggest suggestions for the final question is trying to stay on top of what's happening, and this episode is a great start! Hope you enjoy the conversation as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the show? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This was a 101 episode on the Topical Delivery of Skincare Actives, with Gabriella Baki, Ph.D., cosmetics researcher and prof in the University of Toledo Cosmetic Science program. Enjoy!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This one featured Michelle Wong, Lalita Iyer and Esther Olu. Our take on Not So Pretty.
Interested in supporting the show? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
New podcast alert! A deep dive into ethoxylated ingredients, breaking down the facts, and fiction, with Prof Ricardo Diez. We covered how ethoxylation has allowed for better-performing products, end of life, 1,4-dioxane, PEGs and so much more. This episode was a little in the weeds, but if you want a thorough (and factual) take on the topic, this is the episode for you. Hope you enjoy the conversation as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the show? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
Unless you live under a rock, I am sure you have seen some scary headlines about PFAS. This episode featured analytical chemist and PFAS researcher, KC Hyland, Ph.D. We explored what they are, where they are, the major issues and challenges, and key things everyone should know. This conversation was more of a general one on PFAS rather than specific to cosmetics, albeit cosmetics certainly came up. While it may not be a comfortable conversation for everyone, if there's anything I can leave you with; don't let people scare you about this topic, and there's no need to stress. Hope you find this episode as informative as I did!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This week we take a look at the deceptively complicated world of product sensory. Featuring cosmetic chemist and formulation aesthetics expert, Mark Chandler. Disclaimer - this episode is on the technical side. But if you want answers on what people really enjoy about skincare products, this is the right episode for you. Enjoy!
Want to support the show? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
In this episode, Annalisa @skinperspective and I set out to answer some specific questions about slept-on ingredients and ended up answering all of your formulation and ingredient inquiries. This one starts in the weeds and trudges through it for most of the conversation, so if you're looking for something a wee bit more technical, you're in the right place. Hope you enjoy the discussion as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
Entrepreneurship in Beauty, with the most badass entrepreneur I know, Jasmina Agonovic. Previously a founder at Mother Dirt, her new company Arcaea was born out of her entrepreneur in residence journey with Ginkgo Bioworks. We talked about entrepreneurship and biotech. Disclaimer, at some point I seemed to have forgotten who was interviewing who, but I think the conversation turned out pretty well! Hope you enjoy it as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This was the closing panel at our Sustainable Beauty E-Summit last week, in conversation with Dr. Rene Van Acker, Dean of the Ontario Agricultural College, Dr Akemi Ooka, Head of Global Supply Chain Resources at the IBA, and Dr Iain Davies, Director of the Environmental Sciences Program at the PCPC. How does misinformation about sustainability impact sustainable development in the cosmetics sector? Hope you enjoy this conversation as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
From not disclosing sponsorships to flat-out misrepresentation of topics, the trend of experts behaving badly online seems to be growing. This roundtable discussion included 3 experts we so appreciate on this platform for continually leading by example on social media - Jess Stokesparish, Ph.D., Anjali Mahto, M.D., and Michelle Wong, Ph.D. Hope you enjoy the conversation as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
From the perspective of a cosmetics safety assessor. What "clean" beauty gets wrong about product safety. This was an information-packed episode - hope you enjoy it as much as I did.
Coming at the topic from a stats POV with biostatistician, Julian Sass, otherwise known as @scamander14. We dove into the weeds around statistical analysis, p-value hacking, common practices in the cosmetics world, science washing, and lots more! Hope you enjoy the episode as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the show? Find us on Patreon at www.theecowell.com/theecowell
This episode featured hair scientist, Dr Jeni Thomas. A deep dive into hair loss and hair loss products. What works, what doesn't, and where's that line for regulatory compliance? Hope you enjoy the conversation as much as I did! Big thank you to KeepItAnchored for sponsoring this episode!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This week's episode featured Dr. Mara Evangelista-Huber (@dermomtology on IG) in a deep dive into the deceptively complex subject that is "good evidence." 'Backed by science', 'medical grade', 'clinically proven', 'clinical formulations' - what do these claims even mean? Covered in the show - how does evidence grow in strength? what's common practice in the cosmetics world? Issues of pseudoscience and why they come up, and lots more. Hope you enjoy the conversation as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the show? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This week's episode went into the weeds of "sustainable" packaging, featuring packaging technologist, Dan Coppins. We dove into the pros and cons of the many packaging types out there, widely held misconceptions (maybe plastic isn't the demon packaging we all think it is), the challenges of non-experts continuously getting a platform to political virtue signaling. Huge topic, but I think this conversation was a good 101 breakdown. Enjoy!
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New podcast alert! What is science communication, why is it important, and can it really make a dent in the overwhelming amount of misinformation out there - in the beauty space and beyond? This episode featured a roundtable discussion with Nini Munoz (@niniandthebrain), Esther Olu (@themelaninchemist), Jess Stokesparish (@j_stokesparish), Lalita Iyer (@skinchemy) and Michelle Wong (@labmuffinbeautyscience), 5 scicommers that are doing a fantastic job online. Enjoy!
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This episode featured Jeroen van den Bosch, zinc oxide expert over at EverCare, a company that specializes in producing zinc oxide ingredients. We talked about sourcing to production, formulating, sustainability, regulations & lots more. Pretty much everything you ever wanted to know in one spot :). One major take-home - despite the reef safe claims out there, whether the sunscreen is organic ("chemical) or inorganic ("mineral"), these claims are not supported by the evidence. Enjoy the show!
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This episode featured an interview with Dr Raven (The Science Maven) Baxter, one of my favorite scicommers on the internet today, about Science Communication - what is it, challenges, why it's important, how to get into it, and lots more. Enjoy!
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This week’s episode featured Canada’s favorite OBGYN and a scicomm idol for me, Dr Jen Gunter, helping us navigate the world of women’s intimate hygiene. Some quick take homes: purity culture dominates this space, your vagina does not have lungs and the colour of your underwear is irrelevant. ALSO - menopausal beauty is a scam. Enjoy the show!
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For this week's episode, we were joined by Heleen Kibbelaar @sciencemeetscosmetics, PhD candidate in complex fluid systems who is focusing her research on the hair! We talked about hair damage, hair strength, tips for keeping your hair in good shape, product claims substantiation and what that looks like, misconceptions and lots more. Enjoy!
PS, this podcast comes with a transcript! Head on over to www.theecowell.com/podcast if you'd like to download it!
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A roundtable on sponsored content in the beauty world, in conversation with Nilki at @uglyducklingskincare, dermatologist, Davin Lim at @drdavinlim and Michelle Wong at @labmuffinbeautyscience. Enjoy!
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Looking for a transcript? We're now publishing all new podcast transcripts from here on out on our website podcast page - www.theecowell.com/podcast
This week we look at the polarized world of fragrance through the lens of one of the world's most decorated and celebrated perfumers, Christophe Laudamiel. We talked about fragrance formulas, the challenges of labelling “fragrance”, misconceptions, misinformation, and lots more! Enjoy!
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This week's episode featured Jaana Ailus. Formulation chemist and PhD researcher, Jaana is part of a growing Scandinavian skincare movement that is starting to emerge as one of the most influential markets in the world. We talked about trends, the cosmetic science scene, what products we wished we had developed and why, education opportunities and lots more. Enjoy!
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This week's episode is a 101 on the skin microbiome (and related skincare). There are so many bold claims in this space. What is the skin microbiome? How much do we really know at this point? Skin microbiome skincare - what’s out there, and is it worth the hype? To help us take a deep dive on this topic, this week’s episode featured microbiologist and skin microbiome researcher at Henkel, Dr Rainer Simmering. Enjoy!
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A few months ago on our discord server we hosted a panel discussion with a few industry experts across the cosmetics field and tried to tackle this common claim from a formulation perspective. Formulating with naturals. Are natural ingredients inherently better in some way? What about safety? Are you always better off with the natural option? I am joined in this discussion by regulatory expert Marie Dehlinger, perfumer and all around fragrance expert Pia Long and cosmetics formulator Annalisa Branca. So without further ado we’ll let the panel introduce themselves and we’ll start with Marie. Enjoy the show.
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New podcast alert! Part 2 of our 2 part season finale featuring Dr Ricardo Diez. In part 1 we talked about the rise of the alternative (facts) cosmetics industry. This episode dove into the how. From false equivalency via self proclaimed experts, to wide spread fallacies that are spread as fact. The bastardization of science, to the EWG - how they cherry pick research to drive their agenda, and use fear to capture the market. Hope you enjoy the conversation as much as I did!
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This podcast featured Dr. Ricardo Diez, AKA The Prof - industry veteran, he’s now a professor in the cosmetics science masters program at Rutgers University. Part 1 of our 2 part season finale on the rise of the “alternative” (facts) cosmetics industry. This was one of my favorite interviews to date! Hope you enjoy it as much as I did!
Want to support the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This week we spoke with Sam Farmer. In an industry led by pseudoscience marketing noise, Sam is someone I’ve long admired for going against the grain with his brand to stand up for reason in the cosmetics space. This conversation aired live on our discord and featured Sam’s perspective on what it means to ethically navigate the cosmetics industry as a father, an indie beauty brand and as a consumer. Enjoy!
Interested in supporting the show? Find us at patreon.com/theecowell ♥
This week I talked with cosmetic chemist Esther Olu, otherwise known as @themelaninchemist on IG. This episode focused on the testing brands should be doing before placing their products on the market - what are the tests, what do they involve, why do they need to be done, which order makes the most sense, regulations, misconceptions and more. This is something that I’ve seen a lot of confusion on, especially with smaller brands in the North American space. Whether your a prospective brand founder or a curious consumer, I hope you find this episode helpful.
Interested in supporting the show? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell ♥
How can biotechnology help us create greener, and better products? This podcast featured a roundtable discussion with Christian Euler, strain engineer at Phycus Biotech, Jasmina Aganovic, entrepreneur in residence at Ginkgo Bioworks, and Kevin Folta, horticultural researcher and host of the Talking Biotech Podcast. We talked about what's out there and what may be out there over the next decade, impact, challenges (e.g. with scaling up), certifications and how they should and could grow with the science, regulations, and the hot topic of "GMOs" - misconceptions, which there are A LOT of, vs reality. What does the body of scientific evidence have to say at this point? This was one of my favorite panels recorded - the potential of biotechnology is something that I'm really excited about. Hope you enjoy the conversation as much as I did!
Interested in supporting the podcast? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This episode featured Marisa Plescia on how to become a cosmetic chemist! What is a cosmetic chemist? Educational requirements and job opportunities? How to land your first job, and how to grow in your career. If you are considering a career in cosmetic sciences, I hope you find this conversation helpful!
Interested in supporting the show? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This week's episode featured a roundtable discussion on the topic of the Skin Microbiome and Skin Microbiome Related Products, featuring pharmacist and founder of Gallinee, Dr Marie Drago, dermatologist and dermatopathologist, Dr Aegean Chan, and microbiologist studying the topic over at Henkel, Dr Rainer Simmering. What is the skin microbiome? How does it relate to the condition of your skin? Can cosmetics impact it - for the better or worse? Where are we at with our current understanding and what are the limitations? While we may have a long way to go to impact the skin microbiome in a meaningful way, the future of skin microbiome skincare is bright. This was an information packed conversation, hope you enjoy it as much as I did!
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This episode featured regulatory toxicologist Stephen Kirk, cosmetic chemist Dr Anke Ginzburg, and Dr Theresa Callaghan, the woman who literally wrote the book on claims for the cosmetics industry, in a roundtable discussion to answer the question ‘what can cosmetic products really do?’ From safety to efficacy, what’s on the label to what’s not. This conversation addresses skin physiological impacts, claims, toxicology, regulations and more. Disclaimer - this is definitely one of our more into-the-weeds episodes. If you’re into the nitty gritties, this one’s for you!
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This week's episode featured a conversation with Gloria and Victoria from Chemist Confessions. We covered A LOT: What it’s like to be a cosmetic chemist, tips to become one, effectively communicating science, managing an online platform - navigating brand partnerships while still keeping true to your message is tough. Launching a brand, and keeping the brand going during the pandemic is too - we’re all surviving the supply chain disruptions that have become the norm. For anyone looking to jump into something with both feet, the start of Chemist Confessions should give you some inspiration. Enjoy!
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New podcast alert! This week's episode featured Marcel Schnyder, Head of BASF's global technical center for suncare in a deep dive into sunscreens. From filters and their performance and safety, to misconceptions, environmental impact, to regulations. Variability in SPF testing results have been a hot topic as of late. Why can/do different labs produce differing SPF results for the same product? Are there inherent limitations with the way we are currently testing SPF? Also covered - why DIY sunscreens aren't a good idea, the complexity of suncare formulations, and tips for brands thinking about launching a sunscreen. This was an information packed episode. How you enjoy it as much as I did!
Do you find this podcast valuable? Please consider supporting us over at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This episode featured a roundtable discussion with 3 indie brands I think are doing an excellent job, especially around, in my opinion, ethically marketing their products. Included in the discussion was Natasha from Apothaka Skincare, Jordan from Jordan Samuel Skin, and Natalie from Deviant Skincare. We talked about the challenges for small brands in the current marketplace - from ethically marketing, to accessing minimums, finding a good contract manufacturer, to taking the right steps to safely, and effectively, launch a product. Whether you’re a consumer looking for a behind the scenes look at what it takes to launch a brand, or a brand looking for insights for growth, I hope you find this conversation helpful!
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This week featured claims expert, Carys Smith, who is the current regulatory and sales director over at Ayton Global Research, a company who helps brands with their claims substantiation. Despite some misconceptions online, claims are regulated, and no, companies can not just say what they want. In this conversation, we dove into what a claim is, what the different types of claims out there include, and what is the level of evidence behind them, regulatory enforcement from region to region, brands falling through the regulatory cracks, what claims we deem as ‘unethical’ and why, a general how-to for brands to effectively make compliant claims, and a run down for consumers for what to look for with respect to noncompliance.
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Something that I have personally noticed online, is that there seems to be quite the disparity in credibility from estheticians. While there are so many in my network that put out fabulous information, there are also many perpetuating the same old marketing myths and misinformation. On our season last year, feat. @andymillward_ - I found out that this disparity may come down to the gaps in training and, perhaps, lack of standardization, at least from the UK perspective, where some facialists may have years of training, some may have days. Some may have gotten their hands on experience under a single brand - who may or may not be giving them correct information, some with many. I can only imagine how frustrating this may be for both estheticians, especially highly trained ones, and their clients, where finding a good one may feel a bit like Russian Roulette. So in this episode, I wanted to broaden the conversation to a roundtable featuring estheticians from around the world. What is the variety of training in your region? Is there any kind of standardization to ensure everyone is trained to a sufficient level? How can things improve in your area? And for the everyday person, with all of this in mind, how can we go about finding a good esthetician? Featured in the conversation, Andy Milward (@andymilward_), Eunice Cofie-Obeng (@eunicecofie), Presley McGlashing (@presleycharlotteskintherapy), Justin Spracklin (@maximumskin), and Jillian E (@estheholic)
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Choosing cosmetics can be as complicated as you want to make it. One of the most analyzed facets of a product is also one of the most complicated IMO - Ingredient lists. In this episode, we dove into the topic in quite a lot of detail. What do and don't ingredient lists tell you, how can you effectively read a label, and what are some considerations to think about when choosing your products? Also covered - the Purito sunscreen story from Judit's perspective. Hope you enjoy the episode!
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a roundtable discussion with the PCPC on sunscreens, featuring R&D scientist Alex Kowcz, attorney, Emily Manoso, environmental toxicologist, Dr Iain Davies, and toxicologist, Dr Linda Loretz. Pretty much everything you want to know about sunscreens, their regulations in the USA, and the current evidence we have on safety and their environmental impact, in one information packed episode! Note, in the episode we discussed the pending NAS study - since the recording, the NAS has announced the list of panel members who will participate.
Interested in supporting our scicomm work? Find us on Patreon at www.patreon.com/theecowell. This roundtable was initially streamed onto our Patreon page - one of the perks of joining the community ♥. Thanks to everyone who supports us on Patreon!
Interview with Marta Wolska-Brys from Packaging and Beyond on beauty packaging. In this episode, we dove into the complexities of packaging - from the impacts they may have on formulations to their environmental impacts. What are some of the considerations brands should be thinking about when choosing their packaging?
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‘Joining an mlm, prepare to lose money, time, friends and family. Purchasing from one, be consciously aware that you are supporting a system that will oppress those who are - financially in need and are trying to do better. You’re giving them false hope before it crashes down on them, and they potentially lose more money than what they’ve put in-.’ A quote from Blair @illuminaughti from our latest podcast episode this week; Why I will never support an MLM brand (and would encourage you to do the same).
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An episode about all things botox. What is botox? When is it useful in dermatology? What are some important things to know for those considering the treatment? and how can something so deadly be used so safely in skincare? To help us navigate the topic I’m joined by Chicago based founder of Tone dermatology, Dr Caroline Robinson.
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Citation for our factoid break in case you'd like to read more on the history of botox :) >
Whitcup S.M. (2019) The History of Botulinum Toxins in Medicine: A Thousand Year Journey. In: Whitcup S.M., Hallett M. (eds) Botulinum Toxin Therapy. Handbook of Experimental Pharmacology, vol 263. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/164_2019_271
A 101 on peptides featuring the scientist that first introduced peptides to the cosmetics industry, Dr Karl Lintner!
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This conversation featured Dr Anjali Mahto on skin stigma and misinformation. From incorrect perceptions around the root cause of skin conditions to social media filters and how they distort our perception of what's normal, #dunningkruger experts who seem to be everywhere to ageism in celebrity culture. How does this noise impact the average person, and how can we find better, accurate information? Hope you enjoy this podcast as much as I did!
Interested in supporting us on Patreon? Find us at www.patreon.com/theecowell
This episode featured an interview with world renowned science communicator and Canadian treasure - Timothy Caulfield, about fear and misinformation. How does fear and fear marketing encourage conspiratorial thinking? With all the noise out there, how can we find credible information sources? Does debunking really work in the context of internet bubbles? We often have very dissonant perspectives of relative risk in our daily lives. Where do we go wrong and how can we better critically assess risk? Hope you enjoy this podcast as much as I did!
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A few months back, Jill and Carlene from the Breaking Beauty Podcast did an interview swap. On their podcast we focused on clean beauty and the misinformation I generally harp on about :). We continued our conversation here, in this episode we focus on media accountability, the changes in journalism over the last few decades, and the ups and downs created by the democratization of information.
Here's their podcast featuring me >https://breakingbeautypodcast.com/blog/tag/the+eco+well+podcast
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This episode was a follow up roundtable on the topic of fragrance in skincare, featuring Pia Long, perfumer and all around fragrance expert and dermatologist Dr Angelo Landriscina. While in our original fragrance panel, it did seem like all of the panelists were more or less in agreement - do what works for you. In the comments, there seemed to be quite a bit of misunderstanding from the viewers. So we decided to try a round 2, in a more intimate discussion to clarify the topic. This episode is a bit on the longer side, but I’d say it was pretty thorough. If you’re interested in this topic, whether you enjoy fragrance in your skincare or you think fragrance is the devil, if you stay tuned until the end, I hope this conversation gives you some good groundwork.
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A skincare AMA with dermatologist Dr Davin Lim. You guys sent in your questions, Davin answered them! Are fragrances an ingredient category everyone should avoid? Yay or nay to the Ordinary’s niacinamide powder? Who should consider laser treatment? What’s the right way to layer your products? If you’re looking for an effective skincare routine, should you bypass cosmetics and focus on prescription products? We covered all of this and lots more! Hope you enjoy the conversation as much as I did!
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The idea that the cosmetics industry is completely unregulated comes up a lot. When in reality, there’s a lot going on from the regulatory side to keep companies in check, and to keep consumers safe. Regulations can always improve, but it’s patently false to say they don’t exist. I think part of the reason these ideas are out there is because regulations are kind of confusing, especially depending on where you’re located. Industry information and cosmetic science is also not readily available to the everyday person - even for smaller brands who have products on the market, this can be a challenge. The lack of accessible knowledge sharing certainly, at least IMO, doesn’t serve our industry. So in this episode, to help us navigate the topic of cosmetic regulations, I was joined by EU based cosmetic regulator Kamal. Hope you enjoy the conversation as much as I did!
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This conversation featured Nadine Baggott on the state of beauty journalism.
In today's media landscape of fast and free, it’s hard to imagine the quality of media keeping up it’s standards. Journalism has never been a particularly lucrative career path. But today, with release schedules that are measured in hours, minutes and seconds, rather than weeks or days, things are certainly a lot harder for the average journalist. Click bait is now the name of the game, with misleading titles like ‘Are skin-care products the new cigarettes?’ the norm. News and magazine agencies are closing left and right, and those who do survive end up at the mercy of their advertisers. At present in magazines, the difference between content and advertisement is almost imperceptible. On social media, you have to claim when you are being sponsored to say something, but in the magazines today it’s the wild wild west. To add to all of this, journalists are now competing with influencers, who at any time are a few taps away from reaching millions of people.
Where does that leave journalists? No one wants to pay for their work, no one wants to wait for their work, and if they want to investigate the advertisers, who's going to pay for that? How is this fast and free model expected to provide us with accurate information?
Hope you enjoy this conversation as much as I did!
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From influencers and celebrities who swear the secret to wellness is literally sunshine on your butthole, or maybe your just not eating enough “SuPeR FoOdS” - To the idea that the only time people become unwell is because the government mandates it. While bunk wellness claims are as old as the idea of wellness, there is no denying there's been an uptick since the start of the 2000s - amplified by social media and celebrity culture - the misinformation out there often feels overwhelming. It’s getting harder and harder to sort fact from fiction. Our current information marketplace is like an ocean of brackish water. Truth mixing with conspiracy in an indistinguishable soup of ideas, opinions and facts. To help us navigate this ocean of wellness misinformation, it’s impacts, and what we can do about it, I was joined by Dr Josh Wolrich, NHS surgical doctor, science communicator and fellow podcaster. Enjoy!
A conversation about the realities for 'sustainable' agriculture, featuring Dr Rene Van Acker, dean of the Ontario Agricultural College at the University of Guelph, and Dr Kevin Folta, horticultural researcher and professor at the University of Florida.
This episode featured Andy Millward, UK based facialist, I’ve been following him for a while - I really have come to respect his nuanced view about skincare. In the skincare community, there seems to be a bit of stigma around estheticians - many times scientists and dermatologists just get into their own little crowds and kindof discount what estheticians may bring to the table. On the flip side, while there are some estheticians that publish great quality content, there are others that kind of miss the mark, whether that’s talking about toxic ingredients in skincare or maybe misinforming about a medical skin issue. Perhaps this is where that stigma comes. So in this conversation, I wanted to tackle the topic. Why is there such a diversity in credibility? What are some of the root problems going on there? And by not giving estheticians a seat at the table, how does this impact quality of care and information in the skincare space. How can we all work together to do better? Hope you enjoy the conversation as much as I did!
Extraordinary claims seem to be par for the course in skincare. How did we get here? Is the cosmetics industry the wild wild west? Can people really just claim what they want? Or is it our regulators lacking teeth? From zinc oxide powders claiming to be sunscreen, to anti-aging miracle serums… surely our products aren’t time machines. How do these claims get substantiated, why do they get parroted, and whose job is it to make sure the claims we see from brands are truthful? To try to tackle this topic, we talked to the woman who literally wrote the book on claims - Dr. Theresa Callaghan, Author of ‘Help! I’m Covered in Adjectives: Cosmetics Claims & The Consumer’ She shares her insights, critique, and her thoughts on how the industry regulators are fighting an uphill battle.
This episode featured a conversation with Liah Yoo, skincare influencer and founder of Krave Beauty. We talked about measured expectations for cosmetics, and the systemic issues of misinformation in the beauty space. Where do the issues start, how can we do better and what should consumers know.
This episode featured a conversation with Dr Marie Dehlinger (@vetcosmetic), regulatory expert and science communicator. We covered misconceptions around product regulations, fear marketing and how it hurts the whole industry, animal testing, fragrances, and so much more. Hope you enjoy the podcast as much as we did!
Kicking off season 4 with an episode featuring Dr Angelo Landriscina @dermangelo - on derm training, limits in knowledge, opportunities for collaboration for better care and education, and skincare myths and tips. Angelo also weighed in on fragrance in skincare, and the idea that has been floating around - 'if you want an effective product, choose a prescription rather than an OTC or cosmetic.' Enjoy!
Are sunscreen actives killing coral reefs? Are products sold in the USA less safe than those sold in Europe? Is organic really the “greener” choice? What's the deal with lash growth serums? From a dermatologists perspective, should we be scared of fragrance in our skincare?
Final episode of season 3! A few weeks ago I asked you guys to send in questions for our beauty science AMA episode. Here it is! Instead of answering them all myself, I decided to recruit some of my beauty/science friends on IG for our most collaborative episode yet to celebrate episode 100!
Joining in to help answer: Perry Romanowski from @thebeautybrains2018, Dr Michelle Wong from @labmuffinbeautyscience, Analisa from @skinperspective, Cassandra Celestin from @thebeautychemist, Dr Anke Ginzburg @dr.ginza, Valarie George @cosmetic_chemist, Marta from @apelequehabitoblog, Dr Aegean Chan @draegeanchan, and Erin from @foodsciencebabe. If you’re looking for great science based accounts to follow, be sure to check out these!
Thank you from the bottom of my heart for continuing to tune in and support what we do! Extra big thank you to our Patreon members. If your interested in supporting us on Patereon as well, head on over to Patreon.com/theecowell. We’ll still be doing e-events throughout the rest of the summer, so you’ll still be seeing as around, but as for the podcast, we’ll see you again in September. Thanks for tuning in!
This week we got into the weeds about AHAs with chemist Dr Shiva Farabi. What are they, what do they do, what are the different AHAs out there and how do they differ from each other. Also explored in the episode - what are 'acids' in skincare, what's the difference between 'mechanical' and 'chemical' exfoliation, and for beginner AHA users, what's a good approach for incorporating them into your skincare routine. Friend of the show, dermatologist Dr Aegean Chan also made a feature for that last question. Enjoy!
As promised, here's a condensed version of our #beautyscience panel on the "clean" beauty movement. In conversation with Dr Anke Ginzburg (@dr.ginza), Dr Aegean Chan (@draegeanchan) and Dr Michelle Wong (@labmuffinbeautyscience). Does clean beauty offer any benefit to consumers? It irritated cosmetic scientists to the degree that they’re showing up on social media. Fostering conversation and collaboration - That is a good thing.
Have you ever thought of launching your own skincare product? It can be hard to navigate a to-market strategy on your own; what should you look for in a chemist? Private label or custom formulation? Tests required? How do you label your product? Determine your shelf life? Decide on a manufacturer? This will be the reference episode! Featuring fellow cosmetic chemist Cynthia Johnson, founder at Cindy J Cosmetic Labs. Hey #indiebeauty startups! This one's for you!
This episode featured @eunicecofie - cosmetic chemist and founder @nuekie in a conversation about representation and diversity in the beauty space. From skincare product design to dermatological care, journalism to cosmetic science and leadership. Hope you enjoy the conversation as much as I did! Shout out to @draegeanchan - also briefly featured in this episode.
Featuring 3 of my favourite science communicators and activists in Canada, Ryan Armstrong - ED at Bad Science Watch, Samantha Yammine - otherwise known as @science.sam & Jonathan Jarry - science communicator at McGill University and co-host of @thebodyofevidence podcast. From placenta smoothies to “perineum sunning” - jade eggs to vampire facials, there is no denying the uptick of bunk wellness claims in the 2010’s. This kind of noise has a large and measurable impact. Today, studies can find anything. And we’re increasingly confused about what a healthy lifestyle involves. Why do false beliefs continue (and spread) in the face of bad, sometimes even fatal, consequences? Hope you enjoy this conversation as much as I did!
This episode features a conversation with Michelle Miller, otherwise known as The Farm Babe . In a world of non-gmo and organic certified, Michelle takes on the massive challenge of attempting to debunk the myths and fallacies surrounding our food production. There's a general feeling that “organic” agriculture will be more sustainable, and you can see this even in the cosmetics industry - all of our “eco” certifiers prioritize ingredients sourced via organic agriculture. Is it?
This week's episode featured a conversation with Caroline Hirons. A few weeks ago she rightly made a comment on my page chiming in that my beef with misinformation isn’t beauty influencers - ‘it’s the brands and marketing teams who write those very words on packaging, press releases and advertisement’. Going on to say that in the 25 years she’s been working in the beauty industry, she’s never met someone in a marketing department who’s qualified in the skin (or formulation). Her comment really got me thinking - well first, she was obviously totally right. But also - with the rise in some of the anti science trends popping up, I’ve always thought of the mass of misinformation in the media as being more of a recent trend. Turns out, misleading marketing has a long history of use in the personal care space. So if misinformation has its claws dug into the cosmetics industry so deeply, how can we move forward?
This episode featured a conversation with Andrea Hardy, a Canadian registered dietitian with a passion for science communication about nutrition, an area with a lot of misinformation, including with respect to skin health and supplementation. How does our diet impact our skin? There are a lot of trendy supplements becoming popular in the cosmetics space - are any of them worthwhile?
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This episode featured a conversation with Perry Romanowski about science communication in the cosmetics space. Why is fear mongering misinformation so persuasive? What is the state of the problem of misinformation today? What can scientists and science-enthusiasts do about? and what are some of the challenges in our way?
This episode featured a conversation Laura Markley from Waste Free PhD. We talked about packaging - if we want more “sustainable” packaging, what are the metrics we should be looking to when informing our decisions? There is a lot of wishful thinking and greenwashing on this topic. That glass, aluminum and cardboard, for example, is the easy eco option. Many times it’s not - recyclability and intensiveness along the lifecycle are often seemingly missed points for these packaging types. What is the most environmentally sound packaging option? The major take home of this conversation was that #itscomplexitdepends but what's for sure? Black and white answers just don't work. And accessibility needs to be a big part of the equation when deciding what's right for you.
This episode featured a conversation with Dr Anke Ginzburg on the topic of misplaced fear mongering. We gave our perspectives for the trends of ‘safe beauty’, ‘non toxic beauty’ and ‘clean beauty’ - long story short, there’s a lot of marketing fueled misinformation driving these ideas. This podcast was recorded as an IG Live video and featured some of the questions we received from our audience: is the Think Dirty App reliable, tips to read an ingredient list, how to become a cosmetic chemist, the science behind vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, and lots more. PS, from today onwards Anke and I are launching our Technical Tuesday series. Join us at 12 pm EST every week for a 30 minute deep dive into cosmetic science. This week we’ll be exploring sunscreen!
Drying out your acne may just make the issue worse. ‘Supplements’ may be downright unsafe. No - having acne doesn’t mean your not washing your skin enough. New podcast alert! Feat Dr Aegean Chan in #beautyscience conversation about acne! Who should get extractions and who should you trust to do them? Accutane - is it safe (long story short - when you work closely with a dermatologist, yes.)? How often should you cleanse your skin? What are effective actives and routines for acne prone skin? We explored all this and more!
In this episode, I talked with Dr Michelle Wong from Lab Muffin Beauty Science in an AMA episode. You sent in your questions and we tried our best to answer as many as we can - including how high of an SPF factor is needed, how much sunscreen should we be applying, is hyaluronic acid something to avoid, are there any “must have” beauty tools, is there a max price one should spend on skincare, do nose porestrips cause damage to the skin and how effective are they, do lash growth products work, greener packaging, environmental considerations for ingredients, yay or nay to essential oils in skincare and lots more. Enjoy!
This week, I took a break from our regular cosmetic science conversations to talk with Dr. Christopher Labos about the coronavirus. We covered the need to knows - what is the coronavirus, why does it spread so quickly, how can we reduce our chances of getting it, and why is it crucially important for us to all do our part to flatten the curve, to ultimately put less pressure on our health care system and to protect those who are at a higher risk. Sending lots of love to all of you! Stay safe out there!
In this episode, I talked with Dr Anke Ginzburg about nail polish - about what goes into nail polish formulations and what doesn’t, misplaced fear-mongering such as the whole ‘5-free’ thing and why you shouldn’t be worried, and lots more. We also answered some of the nail polish questions submitted on Instagram. This was an information packed episode - hope you like it as much as I did.
In this episode, I talked with Dr. Kevin Folta, professor and former chairman of the horticultural sciences department at the University of Florida - I was really excited to get him on the podcast to talk about “GMOs”. What are they, why are they used, and how can they help us do better. We also broke down some of the misinformation floating around about the topic, including in cosmetics science industry journals where they really should be doing better. If you’re interested in the topic, or feel a pang of fear when hearing about genetic engineering - this podcast episode is for you. And if you have friends or family who feel this way - please consider sharing this episode with them. Let’s spread facts and not fear.
This episode featured a conversation with Erin from @FoodScienceBabe. An AMA episode about myths surrounding "organic" and "GMO" agriculture. Is "organic" actually the "eco" choice? Long story short, probably not.
This episode featured a conversation with Dr. Christopher Labos, cardiologist and co-host at the Body of Evidence podcast - one of my current favorite science podcasts. We talked about the body of evidence regarding talc safety, why court case outcomes don’t necessarily reflect science, the challenges and need for sciecomm, how people who have no idea what they’re talking about can get a massive platform, quantifying risks, lifestyle changes that will actually make a difference in ones health and so much more.
This episode featured the panel discussion from our Green Beauty Night in LA that happened a couple of weeks ago. On the panel, in order of appearance in this conversation, was Laura Markley, PhD student, plastic researcher and the brains behind the popular blog Waste Free PhD, Dennis Abbeduto, cosmetic chemist and personal care business manager at Colonial Chemical, Perry Romanowski, cosmetic chemist, co-host at the Beauty Brains podcast, my other favorite beauty science podcast, and founder at Chemists Corner, Damien Perriman, industry thought leader in the biotech space and VP at Genomatica, and Kenna Whitnell, biochemist and plant extraction expert, she also runs a popular beauty science Youtube channel. The goal of this conversation was to try to find the science in the green beauty movement. What does “Green Beauty” really mean, from a science-based perspective? The panel discussion was also recorded as a video, you can find that on our Youtube channel. If you find the conversation valuable, please share.
In this episode, I spoke with Nicholas Georges, Senior Director of Scientific and International Affairs for the Household & Commercial Products Association (HCPA). We talked about some of the regulatory changes coming up in the USA, including on 1,4-dioxane limits as well limits on VOCs by the California Air Resource Board (CARB) and what it all means for the personal care industry. This episode was a little on the longer side, but if you’re interested in the topic of cosmetic regulations and the changes I’ve mentioned, this will be a good deep dive for you. Major take home of our conversation - a lot of people (who clearly don’t know what they’re talking about) like to say that the cosmetic industry in the USA is unregulated and regulations aren’t changing. By the end of this episode, if you weren’t already convinced, you’ll see that that’s absolutely incorrect.
This episode featured a conversation with Dr. Agean Chan, California based dermatologist and beauty science blogger. A few weeks ago I asked my Instagram followers to send me their skincare questions. With over 100 questions sent in, we tried our best as many as we could. This episode is a little on the longer side as a result, but jam packed with so much good information. Thanks to everyone who submitted a question!
This episode featured a conversation with Joanne Sherrard, co-founder of one of my favorite Canadian beauty start-ups, Aurum Skincare. Prior to starting her brand, Joanne focused her masters research on Aesthetics Philosophy, a topic that I truthfully know very little about and also one that I thought would be an interesting vantage point for the personal care space. We talked about what esthetic philosophy is, historical beauty preferences, and how this all plays into your cosmetic products.
In this episode I interviewed Belinda Carli from the Institute of Personal Care Sciences to go through the anatomy of a lotion - or emulsion products in general. We broke down the key ingredient types needed to make these products possible, from water to emulsifiers to preservative systems and more. Spoiler alert - there is NO SUCH THING as filler ingredients. Every ingredient serves an important function. For more on that, tune in to this informative episode - a cosmetics science 101 on emulsions!
This episode featured a conversation with Valerie George, cosmetic chemist and co-host of my other favourite beauty podcast, The Beauty Brains. A highly requested topic, we talked about the recent Toxic Beauty documentary. Did they get the facts right? Long story short, unfortunately, the answer was no. Before you tell me I’m wrong, please listen to the episode, it’s about 30 minutes and I think we did a pretty thorough review. Cherry-picking data and ignoring the body of evidence, citing poorly designed and retracted science, and having a clear bias for natural ingredients, which we too should be demanding scientific rigor, doesn’t paint the full picture, which was our biggest critique of the film. I would like to see my industry do better and I would also like to see regulations improve, although this might not have the same impact a lot of consumers feel improvements would have as they would affect smaller businesses a lot more than the larger ones who have sufficient scientific teams and resources… but either way, to do this, we need to start with facts.
This episode featured a conversation with Dr. Alex Lorestani, co-founder and CEO of Geltor, a biodesign company that’s focused on creating globally scalable animal-free proteins, such as collagen for the personal care and food sector. We talked about collagen - it’s historical use, where it usually comes from, and why Geltor collagen, biodesign and how it can help our industry do better, sustainability, challenges with our current industry eco- certifications, and steps moving forward.
This episode featured a conversation with Ally Hasbun, PhD student researching cannabis. CBD (Cannabidiol) cosmetics is a big trend right now, but how much do we really know about this cannabinoid? Pertinent to this discussion, just a couple of days ago, the FDA issued warning letters to 15 companies for illegally selling products containing CBD in ways that violate the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act. The FDA also published a revised Consumer Update detailing safety concerns; based on the lack of data supporting safety, the FDA indicated that it cannot conclude that CBD is generally recognized as safe (GRAS). In my conversation with Ally, we talked about what CBD is, the available data we have, regulations, quality control, and lots more. Something I found very interesting - CBD readily oxidizes… with all of the cosmetic products indicating a 1-year shelf life, without any suggestions of refrigeration to keep the CBD intact, how much CBD is actually in these products when they reach consumers?
This episode featured a conversation with Dr Ryan Armstrong, Biomedical Engineer, public health and consumer advocate and Executive Director at Bad Science Watch. We talked about MLM essential oils and all the dangerous misinformation they’re perpetuating. This was a topic a lot of you wanted me to cover on the podcast, was very excited that Ryan agreed to broach the topic with me.
This episode featured a conversation with Jonathan Jarry, science communicator at McGill University at the Office for Science and Society, and co-host of the podcast The Body of Evidence, a show that takes a skeptical eye at health claims. Our conversation was focused on evidence and facts, particularly in the health, wellness and cosmetics space. We covered why evidence is important, what good evidence looks like, challenges in science including with respect to bias, replicability, and predatory journals, the Dunning Kruger Effect, overcoming misinformation and so much more.
This episode featured a conversation with Pia Long, perfumer, fragrance industry consultant, columnist at Perfumer & Flavorist and co-founder of Olfiction, a fragrance consultancy based in Europe. What do we mean when we say “natural” fragrance? This was the topic featured in this episode. We covered what “natural” and “synthetic” mean, what consumers should know about these terms, sustainability challenges in the fragrance sector, regulations, safety and so much more.
This episode featured an episode with Stephen Kirk on cosmetic allergens. Stephen is a regulatory toxicologist by vocation. He spent 14 years working in regulatory toxicology in the pharmaceutical space, eventually moving into the cosmetics space while working for Boots Pharmaceuticals, reviewing the safety of ingredients and finished products. After more than 20 years here, he left Boots to open his own consultancy for the UK cosmetic industry, on the safety and regulatory aspects of finished products. He has a broad knowledge base about cosmetic product safety for the whole product lifecycle, and was the perfect person to take us through this topic. We covered what cosmetic allergens are, how they’re determined and regulated, how they impact consumers, the challenge with many natural ingredients, what the claims ‘hypoallergenic’ and ‘dermatologically tested’ mean on a label, and so much more. This was an information-packed episode with so many important insights.
Economics and business as we know it are broken, and they're amplifying many of our societal problems - our environment being a big one. Can we actually make meaningful steps to addressing climate change, for example, unless we solve this core problem that's fueling it? New podcast alert Gross Domestic Product (GDP) - the monetary value of all finished goods and services made within a country during a specific period of time. It provides an 'economic snapshot' of a country, particularly with its growth rate - on an international stage, a higher GDP will win a 'seat at the table', nationally, our politicians will often promote it, economic growth, when they're vying for votes. But what are we growing? In reality, GDP is an abstract number that can only see quantitative things - we're not people, we're consumers. Our resources aren't of value unless we create products with them - when you clear cut trees, the environmental impact of this isn't accounted for in that number... actually, the number just goes up because our domestic product is higher. When there's an oil spill that needs to be cleaned up, that number goes up. When there's a war, that number goes up. I think we all can agree that it's not good to have an oil spill, and yet, it makes the economy stronger. That same paradox exists with climate change. Relying on GDP as a measure for success means we have to continually have 'growth'. To support this, we have to buy more products and make more, preferably with short lifespan so we can sell even more. If the pressure for 'short terminism' wasn't there, what kind of creativity and innovation would we come up with for our products? As you may imagine, this has largely shaped corporations as we know them today. Did you know that the modern concept of GDP wasn't developed until 1934, becoming a mainstay in 1944 - it hasn't even been 100 years. Clearly, it's not working for us anymore - so how can we start to change that? While this conversation may seem outside of the scope of cosmetics, if we actually want 'sustainability' in our industry, this should be a part of that discussion. As someone who runs a corporation myself, this is something I find myself thinking about a lot - how can we do business better? If you're interested in the topic of sustainability, whichever angle you're coming at it from, if you haven't considered the role our economy is playing as a roadblock for moving forward, this episode would be a good one to listen to. Featured in this discussion - Dr. Yannick Beaudoin, former chief scientist of GRID-Arendal, a collaboration center of the United Nations Environment Program, and current Director General (Ontario and Northern Canada) for the David Suzuki Foundation.
In this episode, I spoke with Dr. Anke Ginzburg - a long time coming conversation all about INCI. What is it, why do we use it, and important details that brands and consumers should know, including regulations on ingredient listings. Disclaimer - with Anke located in Europe and myself in Canada, our conversation was a little Euro and North American centric. With that said, if there were any points related to your region that weren’t covered, send them my way and I’ll do my best to get back to you with an answer.
This episode featured the panel discussion from our Toronto Green Beauty Night that happened just over a week ago. What is ‘green beauty’? Most commonly, when we talk about sustainability in cosmetics, it’s often coming from a place of misinformation - from chemophobia and fear-mongering to fallacies of thinking natural will always be better, which is just not true. I think a big challenge is that scientists often stay behind closed doors - I actually don’t know of another consumer-facing panel on this topic, and there are a lot of panels out there, that features real scientists. Sustainability in our industry is more important than ever, and so it’s really important that we used science-based metrics to move forward instead of the quick switches that really just appease consumer trends. Featured in our Green Beauty Panel was Beta Montemayor, toxicologist at Cosmetics Alliance Canada, Kenna Whitnell, biochemist at Altilis Beauty, Dr. Vik Pandit, Bioengineer at Phycus Biotech, Jenn Harper, founder at Cheekbone Beauty, and Dayna Stein, sustainability advisor and founder at bare market. A really great discussion filled with very important information to our industry, from brand owners, fellow formulators to consumers. My goal with Green Beauty Night is to help re-direct the discussion on an international stage.
In this episode, I spoke with Megan Sieg (@megmadeup14), PhD student studying human exposure to endocrine disrupting chemicals and their impacts on the brain. What does it mean to be an endocrine disruptor? Are our cosmetic products really ‘estrogenic’? We took a deep dive into this topic, and explored a few cases that a lot of consumers are worried about - parabens, aluminum, SLS, triclosan and phthalates. What does science have to say about these chemicals?
A follow up from our global climate strike, this episode featured a conversation with Dr. Shahir Masri - author of the book Beyond Debate: Answers to 50 Misconceptions about Climate Change, Co-founder of a project called On the Road for Climate Action. Shahir is also an Assistant Specialist in Air Pollution Exposure Assessment and Epidemiology at the University of California and an adjunct faculty member at the Schmid College of Science and Technology at Chapman University. We talked about climate change, denialism, the scientific consensus, political action, and steps we can take as global citizens to make a difference.
This was a myth-busting episode, featuring a conversation with Dr. Michelle Wong from Lab Muffin Beauty Science. We covered some of the misconceptions on skin absorption of products, what was reported on the latest FDA sunscreen study vs what the study actually said, misconceptions on the environmental impacts of sunscreens, including the inorganic ones (re- zinc oxide and titanium dioxide), and how this has impacted regulations, silicones, parabens, and so much more. If you’re feeling confused about your cosmetic products, I can assure you, you’re not the only one. I hope that this episode helps clarify a few things for you.
In this episode, I featured a conversation with Belinda Carli from the Institute of Personal Care Sciences (IPCS). This episode dove into a basic cosmetic science 101. Topics covered: What are (and aren’t) preservatives and why do we need them in cosmetic products, adjusting pH and why 5.5 isn’t always the best pH for a formula (and why we often shoot for that pH when formulating products), why there are so many emulsifiers out there, oils, oil derivatives and other lipid/fatty ingredients and how they impact the end skin feel of a product, what humectants are and how they benefit a formula and more! We also talked about the latest formulating tool the IPCS has just launched - a calculator of sorts to make formulating easier, which we also talked about during the episode. Looking to get your toes wet and learn some formulating fundamentals? This podcast is for you.
Who better to kick off season 3 than Deanna Utroske, editor at Cosmetics Design. The conversation - ‘Making it as an Indie Beauty Brand, Top 5 Tips.’ If you’re thinking about launching a brand, are already running one or are just interested in learning more about the process, I think you’ll find this episode helpful.
In this episode, I spoke with Shahin Kalantari, professor at Seneca College, brand founder and formulation chemist - his specialty is in certified organic cosmetics. This episode focused on the nitty gritty details required for launching an organic certified product, including certification possibilities and their differences, steps from concept to development, regulations and lots more. If you’re looking to launch a certified organic product, or learn more about what goes into this certification, I think you’ll find this podcast helpful.
In this episode, I spoke with Karen Gilbert, a UK based perfumery trainer and author of the book ‘Perfume – The Art & Craft of Fragrance’ - an absolute wealth of information on fragrance. In our conversation, we talked about Karen’s career journey to where she is today, the relationship between the cosmetic and fragrance sector, and why smell is important in personal care. We also took a bit of a dive into the nitty gritties of perfumery, from fragrance families, accords, aroma chemicals, sustainability and so much more.
In this episode, I spoke with Laura Markley, PhD student studying the impacts of plastics on the environment and human health, as well as founder of Waste-Free PhD. With ‘Plastic Free July’ upon us, I thought a conversation with her would be timely. In our conversation, we talked about her research on microplastics and estrogenic compounds released from plastics, how this all relates to your cosmetic products, sustainability in cosmetics, suggestions for brands and consumers to do things better, misinformation, and so much more.
For this episode, I spoke with Paige Degarmo, a young cosmetic chemist based in the USA. I know quite a few of you guys, my listeners, are interested in pursuing a career in cosmetic sciences. Because cosmetic chemistry is such a niche, it’s not generally a career path presented as an option while in school… especially here in Canada, where we only have one graduate school for cosmetic chemistry. On the flip side, you don’t even necessarily have to study chemistry, or need a graduate degree, to enter the field. With Paige pretty fresh in her career and progressing quickly, I thought she would be the perfect person to talk about this - the path to a career in cosmetic sciences. We talked about Paige’s path, tools she thought were helpful to landing a job after school, job options, challenges, and lots more. I hope this podcast will be helpful to any of you aspiring to work in the field, and maybe, hopefully, even interesting if your not.
I think step number 1 to better understand sustainable beauty is understanding the word sustainable. Despite the fluff and green washing out there, there are metrics to look to for a better understanding.
This past April I moderated a panel on the topic @theecomarketkw, featured here in this podcast - featuring Dr. Rene Van Acker, Dean of the OAC at the University of Guelph, Truzaar Dordi, financial sustainability PhD candidate at the University of Waterloo, Dr. Brian Doucet, Canada Research Chair in Urban Change and Social Inclusion in the School of Planning at the University of Waterloo, and Dr. Stacey Danckert, co-Director of WREN (Waterloo Region Environment Network). We broke down this topic. What does sustainability really mean?
In this episode, I spoke with Dr Mojgan Moddaresio, Cosmetics Safety assessor and Cosmetic compliance expert at Personal Care Regulatory. How is the safety of ingredients assessed before entering the market? Despite a whole lot of misinformation, they are in fact assessed, by a team of very competent scientists, albeit differently from region to region internationally. From a regulatory outlook, product safety is of utmost importance. In our conversation, we talked about how ingredients are assessed, taking into consideration scientific data, human exposure and concentrations in products, how percentage limitations for formulators are set for ingredients, and international product safety. We took a look at two commonly fear mongered ingredient types, SLS/SLES and parabens, and important take homes for consumers and companies alike. Given that the EWG has so much clout in North America, in light of all the misinformation I’ve seen them perpetuate, I couldn’t not include them in this discussion. Spoiler alert, the EWG is NOT a reliable resource, if you want evidence-based non-cherry picked information that is, regarding the health impacts of your products. Before commenting to tell me I’m wrong, give this conversation a listen. If you're concerned about product safety, or are a brand looking to launch a complaint and safe product, this was such an informative discussion that I think you’ll find very helpful.
In this episode, I spoke with Laure-Anne Gillon, active ingredient expert at SEPPIC. This interview was focussed on the topic of her presentation at the latest Ontario SCC event - How Algae Benefits the Skin. We talked about algae in skincare, research into skin benefits, how algae may be a sustainable ingredient into the future, how biotech can improve it - both from a sustainability and efficacy front, and lots more.
This episode featured a panel I moderated, representing The Eco Market, for the Food System Roundtable of the Waterloo Region - a discussion about waste reduction in our local food systems. While the conversation was focused on waste in food, there’s so much crossover for cosmetic products. Originally aired on #TheEcoCast podcast by The Eco Market, it was too good not to share here as well. Note, I also brought my own perspectives from personal care. Included in the conversation was Thompson Tran of The Wooden Boat Food Company, Ellin Park of Zero Waste Bulk, Tara McKenna of The Zero Waste Collective blog and Kathleen Barsoum of Region of Waterloo Waste Management. This was such a great discussion, I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.
In this episode, I spoke with Belinda Carli from the Institute of Personal Care Sciences in an HLB 101 to help make formulating easier. HLB, or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance, of the ingredients you incorporate into your emulsions play a role in their end feel and function, but why? In our conversation, Belinda broke down HLB, how it relates to different emulsion types and why (e.g. oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions), and steps you can take to use this concept to improve your skills as a formulator. While this conversation is a bit more specific to formulators, if you like cosmetics science, I think the topic is super interesting for anyone.
In this episode, I spoke with Katerina Stetz and Sam Farmer, two brand owners and fellow personal care podcasters, their podcast is called Farmer & Stetz. Our conversation was focused on misinformation in the cosmetics space, where it’s coming from, ‘green’ and ‘clean’ beauty, steps moving forward, and lots more.
By now I’m sure you’ve heard some of the hype regarding a recent study on sunscreen that was released last week in JAMA. With coverage usually using bold titles like “SUNSCREENS ABSORB ALL THE WAY INTO YOUR BLOOD”, there’s no shortage of bad journalism on this study. In response to all of this, I decided to reach out to Dr. Brian Diffey from Newcastle University - a prolific sun care researcher who has published more than 450 papers as well as a recent book, Sun Protection: a risk management approach. He also invented both the UVA Star Rating for sunscreens in conjunction with Boots in the UK, and the Critical Wavelength adopted by the Food & Drug Administration in the USA as the sole measure of broad-spectrum protection. In our conversation, we talked about how sun protection works, SPF, UVA & UVB rays, the current understanding regarding environmental and health impacts, and of course, what this recent study actually said and take-homes from these results. I was so grateful to have the opportunity to speak with Dr. Diffey; an information packed conversation about sun protection.
In this episode, I spoke with Benjamin Schwartz from AAK about oil chemistry for cosmetics. Oils are such an important component of cosmetic product formulations, with so many intricacies with respect to best usage. Which fat will be best for your formula and why? How can we use fat chemistry to predict stability? What are some important details to think about to avoid having a greasy feeling product? Disclaimer alert, this podcast is a bit more on the technical side. If you're a cosmetic formulator, I think you’ll find a lot of value in this episode.
In this episode, I spoke with Dennis Abbeduto, Personal Care Business Manager at Colonial Chemical with a long career history as a chemist in the cosmetics industry. This conversation was mostly focused on surfactants, although we spent a lot of time talking about sustainability pertaining to some of the industry trends at the moment. Today there’s a big push towards ‘biosurfactants’, switching out petrol for things like palm, or coconut, but at what cost? Biotech has huge potential to make ingredients more sustainable into the future, but alas, many certifiers will not approve these materials and many consumers are leery of them, due to their fear surrounding genetic modifications. It feels like misinformation may be slowing the industry from making better decisions, which we talked about. I find myself often getting frustrated with perceptions of what’s ‘green’, including at certain conferences geared at educating the industry about sustainability, as well as in the marketing of so many brands. This is such an important concept that often isn’t given justice - it’s not good enough to think that a material will be more sustainable because it’s ‘100% natural’ or ‘organic’, show me the metrics to tell me how. Note, parts of this podcast are a bit more technical. If you’re new to the topic of surfactants, before listening to this episode, check out the surfactant episode I did with Perry Romanowski for a good 101 breakdown, and then come back to this one.
In this episode I spoke with Britt Hermes, previously a naturopath who’s now come full circle with her views on natural medicine, based on a pretty crazy… outrageous really... professional experience, followed by observing that her experience wasn’t unique in the field. Today, aside from working on a PhD on evolutionary biology at the University of Kiel, she is an advocate against natural medicine, and has become that space’s enemy number 1. I know that this is a controversial topic, and that some of my listeners are very engaged in natural medicine, some of you are naturopaths yourself. Because of this, and general public interest in ‘natural’ wellness, I was feeling… honestly, scared, to launch this podcast… and this feeling, of not wanting to broach a topic that is super important because of public perception, makes me feel sad. Likewise, the outcomes to Britt for sharing her experience thoroughly confirms my fear, but you’ll have to listen to the episode for that. At the end of the day, her story and message, and the downright malpractice that is happening all too frequently today, is too important not to share. To my listeners, I implore you to just listen to this podcast all the way to the end before deciding whether you agree or disagree with the conversation. In our conversation, we talked about her experiences working in as a young naturopath as well as her experiences sharing her experiences, evidence required for drugs, supplements and cosmetics and why that’s important, international cases of natural practitioners overstepping resulting in tragedy, important things everyone should know about natural medicine, how this all relates to cosmetics, and more.
A couple of Saturdays ago, we launched a flagship event in Toronto called a Green Beauty Night. What is green beauty? This term is thrown around so flippantly, but what makes a product truly sustainable? Is natural synonymous with ‘green’? Should we be looking to certifications and non-governmental organizations for insights about our products? What are some of the metrics we should be looking to when calling a product green? Featured on the panel was Christian Euler from Phycus Biotechnologies, Jenise Lee from CertClean, Dayna Stein from Bare Market and myself.
In this episode, I spoke with Inke van der Sluijs, Head of European Operations for the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil. In light of the huge movement against palm oil, I wanted to take the time to connect with the RSPO to go through this challenging topic. Can palm oil be sustainable? If you’re someone who thinks that it can’t be, and that we should just switch to another oil, I would just urge you to listen to our conversation. We spoke about what the RSPO is and what they do, insights regarding trends for palm free, resource requirements, recent data looking at impacts from switching to another fatty crop, steps moving forward, and lots more.