Starlight and Storm: The Inner Thoughts of a Mountain Guide: Recent Episodes
Dick Chasse
This is a collection of my thoughts on philosophy and techniques regarding mountain guiding and outdoor leadership. I record each episode unscripted and usually in a single take.
Starlight and Storm is a book by Gaston Rebuffat published in 1956. He was a visionary french guide that has eloquently written about guiding and mountain craft.
An interesting topic IMO. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
I think this is really important. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
You need to believe in what you are doing. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
A listener request!--- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
I may be suffering from analysis paralysis š. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
Check out Silas and his Ascend and Ascend Pro opportunities @ www.alpine-logic.com--- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
A fun little topic/mind exercise. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
What an interesting experience --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
Shortroping@gmail.com--- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
Food for thought --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
š--- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
Thoughts on how important sound can be in guiding --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
When life presents lemonsā¦--- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
I hope this is better!--- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
A big topic that goes beyond skill progression. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
A long rambling talk on a squishy subject. One important piece is to make observations not judgments. Easy in concept but can be hard in practice. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
An important discussion to have with our clients. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
Finances pt 2--- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
This two part series talks to climber and financial advisor Dan about the essence of financial planning.--- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
I think about this topic a lot. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
Get ready for a rambling rabbit hole. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
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Iām not an ambassador for Praxis. I just like their skis. www.praxisskis.com--- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
Mack was one of the interns on the very first conversations I recorded. I wanted to revisit Mack and her journey in this profession.
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Iām starting to repeat myself š--- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
Just one way at looking at skills and skill progression.
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Just some thoughts.
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Guiding is a constant process of iteration.
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Part of growing as a person is letting go.
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The concepts here apply universally to larger more complex situation.
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This has been keeping me up for a few nights. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
The wrap up episode where we talk more about the actual exam.
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We talk about loss and death and how it affects us in life and guiding. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
Paddy and I go on a journey about rock guiding, loss, the process, and some shared experiences.
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Silas and I talk about how adjusting the scale of what we are looking at is really useful as we try to create solutions for our intended goals.
For more info on Silas's Ascend and Ascend Pro programs go to:
Alpine-Logic.com
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Iām always working on this as I learn/experience new things or re-evaluate what I think I know. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
This is where Iām at. --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/dick-chasse/message
How do we move forward as an industry with the increasingly unpredictable nature of winter and winter activities?--- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/dick-chasse/message
Part 2 of the enjoyable conversation I had with Riley.
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Riley is an awesome skier but more importantly is an awesome person. I really enjoyed this conversation!
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Iām definitely not an expert on this. Iām just trying to do my best and move forward.
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Another interesting journey
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Check out the DMM website for some interesting gear testing.
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A little old school thing.
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Old school vs new school.
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Another small but important piece.
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Past, present, and future.
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I really enjoy working with children and find it an interesting challenge.
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Another small but important topic.
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The Why leads us to the How. Itās an important mindset to develop.
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Important subjects that often get overlooked.
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I think the tittle says it all.
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These are the foundational skills that make up larger compound systems.
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Silas and I go on a journey on the importance of developing habits in mountain craft.
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Silas and I go on a journey on the importance of developing habits in mountain craft.
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Something worth exploring.
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I tried to keep this episode more technical but mind driftedā¦
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Just some thoughts from my recent travels.
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Another journey down the rabbit hole.
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A subset of the directional conversation.
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An interesting and important little topic.
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Some thoughts on some different configurations.
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This topic can get glossed over in guide education.
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Once again I have a conversation with Silas. This time we talk about tips and strategies for climbers looking to venture into lead climbing. Working with new leaders on rock(trad and sport) and ice is somewhat a specialty skillset that Silas and I both have in our guiding/instruction repertoire. This conversation is based on many years of working with people, observing climbers around us, and our own experiences/habits. It's a long one so buckle up! Ā Ā Ā
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I thought where this very basic concept kept popping up very interesting.
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I love this topic for many reasons.
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Setting a good skin track while guiding is important for many reasons.
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Check out these food grade bags from Cloud Peak http://www.noziplock.com. Worth every penny!
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The fun part of cooking!
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You want these https://frybake.com/
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A very important piece to your cooking strategy. This fuel is awesome check it out https://www.foothillfuels.com/
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Part two talking to Matt Shove. Check him out at https://raggedmountainguides.com.
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I'm talking to Matt Shove who is a dedicated lifelong guide. He talks about his journey from his introduction to climbing in Connecticut to starting his own company and giving some advice for future guides.Ā Check Matt out at https://raggedmountainguides.com
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In this conversation I talk with Loren Copp about meta skills, guiding, wilderness therapy, and how it all fits together.Ā
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I have a conversation with Jon Tierney about outdoor leadership and how fundamental skills are the basis for more in depth and nuanced guiding. Ā
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Silas and I go on a bit of a deep dive on concepts about why and how we can shorten a rope.Ā
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An interesting conversation with my close friend Silas Rossi about being and instructor/mentor and insights on watching people go through courses and exams. Check out his new mentorship program Ascend at https://www.alpine-logic.com.
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In this episode I talk to my good friend Hillary abut our relationship as guide and client and how that has moved into a pure friendship. We also discuss some thoughts about climbing with other guides and what it's like to be a member of the LGBTQ+ community in the outdoor space.Ā
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A really important tool to develop. Check out Hannahās gear(both the guide notebook cover and rescue tarp/sleds) at www.sewalpine.com. Also www.maptools.com for speciality navigation tools.
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I go on a journey with two people who both received degrees in outdoor/adventure ed and talk about some of the pros/cons of that and how it's affected them professionally and personally within this industry.
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I go on a journey with two people who both received degrees in outdoor/adventure ed and talk about some of the pros/cons of that and how it's affected them professionally and personally within this industry.Ā
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I really enjoyed talking to Tom. It's a long one but I think his passion and experiences as a high end chef really comes through and is completely relevant to the journey of becoming a mountain guide. A truly lived experience.Ā
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I talk to Shannon Mayo about her experiences after several seasons of guiding and lessons learned that she uses everyday as a ski patroller and avalanche professional.
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This episode I talk to two very motivated and organized young professionals, Anna and Emily, about their experiences after their first season of rock guiding.Ā
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An interesting concept to think about.
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I talk to Lacey, Mack, and Mo about their experiences with their internships.Ā
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Very useful tools that need to be applied well.
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Important in any discipline about especially in avalanche terrain.
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Itās super important to know how stress influenceās your performance during critical events.
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I have suffered much of this my whole career.
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An important thing to be observant about.
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The climbing rope is often an overlooked tool in our tool box.
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Throwing ropes is an important skill.
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Just thoughts while Iām sitting in my hotel room.
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This something Iām working on personally as well as professionally.
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Check Adam out on instagram adamduthiefitness or his website adamduthiefitness.com.
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We all have them. Going through a process to see if they are valid is important.
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A good transition to practice.
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We are our own best source for data.
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A phrase and concept that really resonates with me.
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I find this topic interesting for multiple reasons.
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A little rambling but you would expect that at this point. š
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Time for the next generation to spread their wings and fly.
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Macro concepts and micro nuance
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The understanding the game is important.
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Creating and maintaining teamwork is challenging.
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This your constant companion in the mountains.
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I donāt want to teach people what to think but how to think. That way you can create your own thoughts and solutions.
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Important concepts to work on.
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https://outdoor-sport-institute.libsyn.com/008-osi-community-interview-learning-through-the-eyes-of-a-mountain-guide-with-richard-chasse
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Some thoughts on being an instructor and examiner.
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Good habits could save your life but bad habits will kill you.
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How it feels to be a participant and a couple of strategies to deal with stress.
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Contact me at shortroping@gmail.com
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Guiding is just like LEGOS. We use building blocks to create solutions.
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As we guide we can never let out guard down.
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Some thoughts. Hopefully this is useful.
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Sometimes our clients want to take it the next step. We need to be ready to go there.
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I find this is where a lot of confusion can happen and often itās the guide that makes it worse.
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This is an interesting time. Some thoughts of my recent experiences as I go back to work.
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A interesting topic that has lots of room for different viewpoints.
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Wrapping up this mini series.
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What goes up must come down.
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First part of a small series all based on counter balance systems.
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Some important concepts that tie back to the T method.
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Letās all go on this adventure together.
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Iām going to do my best with a complex topic that is hard to teach verbally.
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Iām opening things up for people if they have interest in specific topics that they would like to hear about. Shortroping@gmail.com
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Super fun systems with many variations.
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I know I said I was done with recording episodes. Cāest la vie. This is a huge topic.
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I think Iāve said enough at this point.
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This is a topic that is more nuanced than often credited. You can greatly increase your efficiency and comfort by getting better at stance management.
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Something we should all try to cultivate.
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Just a few thoughts to close this series of episodes.
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These are really useful systems.
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Also an anchoring style that is often not fully understood.
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Good anchors but often not understood fully.
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More thoughts on anchors.
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These can be tricky mediums to build anchors in.
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Natural anchors require careful evaluation just like any other type of anchor.
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Smaller but important topics.
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This is definitely a misunderstood topic. We need to be aware of extension and mitigate it which is different than dogmatically following a no extension mentality.
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A big topic that is often misunderstood.
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This is the other side of the macro structure coin.
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This is an important concept in anchoring.
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One piece if the anchoring puzzle.
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Understanding the risks but also articulating those risks to our students is important. Helping them see the risks and have reflection on their choices is critical in their progression.
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As guides we need to carry extra equipment to deal with emergencies. Having the right tools for the situation is critical.
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Fatigue is something to be aware of for both you and your clients.
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This is a really important skill for guides to have. Check out my friend James at axles and antennas for good custom printing on tyvek. I recommend the 13x19 size option on caltopo if you want to get the map printed.
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I really like working with this population. You can create some very unique experiences with young kids but it requires a greater command of many different skills.
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Trying to balance your profession with your recreation can be very challenging. It has been for me.
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Here are some great examples of choices by climbers that could have had negative implications.
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This is a way of thinking and a way of teaching.
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Thoughts on sustainability.
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A really important topic that is one of the reasons for many accidents.
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This is an interesting topic. Itās something that Iām becoming more and more aware of. Itās another topic that we can look at through the lens of design.
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Often an over utilized technique.
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Camming devices are a wonderful invention that really allowed climbing to move forward. Despite their ease of use they are very complex.
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Check out www.legadoinitiative.org. This is the conservation organization that is making a real impact with the people of Mt Namuli. They work with other organizations and the local people to change the narrative of conservation and help give the local communities the tools to envision a better future and the training to help implement that vision.
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This is a topic that means different things to different people. Itās something I think about a lot.
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I'm constantly seeing poor belay management in the field from guides/instructors. It's a big piece of what we do on the technical side of things to mitigate risk.
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I find this topic super interesting. Check the book I reference.Ā
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One of the fundamental tools we use in the mountains.
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It's easy to want to skip the basics and move on to more advanced skills. Don't do it!
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Something I evaluate a lot.
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These are awesome tools that have a fair amount of nuance.
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Just like texting and driving is really dangerous multitasking while guiding can also increase our hazard.Ā
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There are many transitions. This works well and has a lot of advantages for both the guide and client.
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Some thoughts on where and why we may use these techniques. Most people think about these as multi pitch skills but they can be used in single pitch terrain as well.
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I felt I needed to add another episode on this really important piece of guiding.
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A super important topic. Sometimes we can use technical systems to affect pacing.Ā
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This is a legitimate but often overused and sometimes misused anchor system.
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As the world is rapidly moving forward sometimes we loose site of more basic fundamental skills. All the new tools and data are awesome but only when used in the right context.
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I feel this concept is not always thought about in it's greatest scope.
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This sounds like a contradiction but when you dig deeper you see the truth in it.
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I originally wanted to do a two part series on this topic. This is the first part. There may be another to follow at some point. These are easy skills to describe but devilish to master(if one can ever truly master anything). Some of the more dangerous skills guides can do. If you make a mistake everyone dies.
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This is often a misunderstood concept.
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If you look at concepts and systems with an eye to logic you find places/systems where we contradict ourselves. I think each system/day should have a certain level of balance and flow.
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I call rope elongation the silent killer. Most people don't understand how rope stretch in their systems can often introduce risk. Careful understanding of fall lines can help you decide where to go or how to protect a pitch.
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People often get these two terms confused.
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I find this concept to be really important for me.
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I find that many guides want to jump ahead to the next step before they have finished what they are doing. This often opens them up to risk because some step in the process hasn't been fully completed.
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Concepts worth thinking about.
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This is such a fundamental part of any disciple that use rope. It seems so basic yet people's ability to simply and efficiently handle rope is going away. We live or die by our rope management. After client interaction rope handling is what we mostly do as climbing guides.
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Terrain is one of the most fundamental pieces of our jobs as guides. How do we position ourselves, move through, mitigate, and work with it?
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I use the analogy of pixels in a digital picture as a framework for risk management and creating experiences for clients.
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The Munter hitch is a wonderful tool that has many applications. It's something every climber should know.
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Checklists are important tools that have been used in the medical profession and in aviation to help facilitate decisions and not to skip steps that may create an outcome that is catastrophic. Good checklists are simple guidelines but are very hard to create. It's very challenging to create a universal checklist that fits for every situation. Understanding things on a more conceptual level vs a literal level can often make a checklist more universal but you have to have a greater understanding of the conceptual model which can be challenging. Ā
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Reflecting on how luck plays a role in our outcomes vs pure skill/decision making is important. It allows us to start to understand what we really have control over and create some strategies on maximizing our influence over those areas while mitigating the areas we have less control over.Ā
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Sometimes it's a good idea to look deeper into the terms we use to describe ourselves and see if we can figure out what these terms really mean.
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Techtalks focus more specifically on tools and techniques. This about some of the fundamental knots we use.
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Mentorship is one of the oldest pieces of the process of learning and a necessity for ones development.
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I am constantly thinking about how we learn and how to teach. Even though this is an on going process I have noticed some trends.
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This is an older voice memo but it covers an important topic and lays the foundation for some of my more current talks.
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My follow up to the Why are You Doing This podcast.
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Have you ever asked yourself why you want to be a guide?
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A brief introduction to who I am and what this podcast is about.
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Thoughts on being open to lifelong learning.
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