Surf Splendor Supporter Feed: Recent Episodes
David Lee Scales
In today’s show Hall of Famer Ricky Carroll talks about getting punched out in Hawaii, posing as a kneeboarder to make it to the World Championships, being the now longest running surfboard shaper in Florida. And Justin Quintal talks us through 11 Duct Tape wins, 5 US Opens, 1 World Title, and explains why partying late suits the longboard contest format and why his world record Grouper was also the best tasting fish in the world. Enjoy!
In today’s show Kelly Richards talks about leaving Arkansas at age 13 to chase surf in South Carolina, the rare opportunity to own a historically persevered 50 year old surf shop, raising a surf prodigy in Cam, and explains how Jamie Foxx helped launch his career, his Wave Of The Winter at Pipe, and the expected gift of finding a long lost sibling. Live from Charleston! Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas and David watch Lowers live, bask in the checkered glow of Lance Collins, regret their late appreciation of The Beach Boys, advise when to stop buying underwear for your kids, and Sam George finally confronts Chas face-to-face. Plus Barrel Of Nah?!
In today’s show Scott and David survey the scene from the cobblestones at Lowers, analyze the free surfs, the boards, reflect back on the Fletcher legacy at the venue, welcome Surfer Mag back to print and bid farewell to another WSL staffer. Plus Duke and Kook! Enjoy!
In today’s show magazine publisher Chris Thomson discusses the value of taking time away from surfing, the enduring importance of community events, how to grow a UK surf brand to access a global audience, and how rethinking the magazine model can preserve the legacy of print. Enjoy!
In today’s show gawk as the biggest financial loss in recent surf brand history, reveal the sum Mayhem seeks from Gaga, shudder at Tom Lowe’s near fatal wipeout, and explain why you should always push your partner’s boundaries but never push them into waves. Plus Barrel or Nah?!
In today’s show Scott and David question the virtue of the single-pump bottom turn, reveal the famed Mentawai captain who is setting smoke screens, dive 90 years deep into Trestles history, looks for perfect surf off the map, and celebrate the life of Bruce Springsteen’s non-bio father. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott and David learn to love again and embrace Jordy’s run at a Title, get blindsided by Gabriela Bryan’s brute force, revel in the glory of Jack McCoy, applaud the ocean for trumping wave pools, and dissect the corrupt and illegal land seizure happening at Pavones. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
In today’s episode Chas and David explain where to go when your peak converges with another’s, discover that poor spelling reveals you may be “light-brained”, marvel at the sanitation power of the pee-pee touch, and find themselves flummoxed by the power of blowing a kiss. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott and David celebrate the return of The Box, gawk at massive Margaret’s and the big rankings shake ups, question papa Toledo’s motives, wonder how old is too old for Lowers, and acknowledge that Occy is in a class all his own. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
In today’s episode pioneering pro surfer Patti Paniccia reveals which brand suggested “going on a date” as a prize for a surf contest, why she turned down a job with the FBI, how she won a seven-figure lawsuit against CNN and got them to change discriminatory practices, and why a women’s champ wasn’t crowned on the first world Tour. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Chas discuss the ethics of adult pro surfers dating high-schoolers, the dangers of crying “cyber bully”, an entirely new species of VAL, why you should “woman up”, and the slippery slope of watching fight videos on Instagram. Enjoy!
In today’s episode Garrett and Nicole McNamara share their how their lives have transformed since 100 Foot Wave, the opportunities they’ve declined, the very real power of pheromones, how opting not to work with surf brands has benefited his career, and producer Joe Lewis details how he’s converted the mainstream into surf fans. Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott and David discuss the fervor and controversy at the Burleigh final, recount the best final in history, explain why Julian’s isn’t a comeback story, finally give Filipe due credit, and learn how to time travel with Mickey Munoz. Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas and David give the haziest suggestions for how to win Mother’s Day before celebrating the sanitation of ELO’s Poo Poo touch, a nostalgic throwback party at Burleigh, determine whether gold chain’s help you shred, and admit that they want a peek inside your bathroom medicine cabinet. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show musician and surfer Landon McNamara recounts his historic Eddie win, how injury and destitution positioned him for that final wave, divine orchestration, the unassailable spirituality of Waimea, and why music is auditory reflection of the surf experience. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Chas identify the precise perfect sized birth canal, pinpoint the problem with surf Vlogs, discover the orgy that birthed colonized Australia, and explain why you should be wary of anyone who wears a crown of flowers. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
On April 26, 2025 Lane Davey passed away after a battle with cancer. To celebrate her remarkable life, we’re sharing this conversation that original aired in 2022. The Pipeline stalwart, B-Girl, and college professor discussed braving Pipe in the early 90s, creating the first female boardshort, the importance of a meritocratic hierarchy, the repercussions of willful ignorance, and how HipHop has informed her entire approach to surfing, education, and life. Rip in Peace, Lane!
In today’s show Scott and David correct the official record and identify an important surfing world first, we learn why PT loves pink, find out how Bells became a hi-pro wave, and celebrate one of Pipeline’s most committed chargers. Enjoy!
In today’s show Nick and Hannah share tales from a world where everyone surfs, redefine our perception of “core”, find vitality from VALS, attempt to fill the void of women in surf media, and survey data that shows how drastically surf culture has shifted. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Chas catch a wink from a secret admirer, competitive surfing hits a historic flashpoint on the Bowl, surfer seek retreat back into their mother’s womb, and why it’s okay to take your wife’s surname but you shouldn’t do it. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott sets new records in the surf world, David recants his rant about a Gold Medalist World Champ, and the boys survey Bells, caution about river waves, start saving for Utah real estate, and fear a new apex predator in the Indo line-up. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas and David realize why it’s Always Sunny In Surfing, celebrate Sam George, embrace the art of a perfectly timed exit, decide to finally support the disenfranchised, and explain why you should never recline your seat on an airplane. Enjoy!
In today’s show surf media raconteur Sam George explains how a nomadic childhood fostered his spirit of resilience, the “terrible” mistake that led to him leaving Surfer Magazine, why being lost in Casablanca formed his wayfaring lifestyle, the gift to a teenaged Josh Brolin paid dividends decades later, and he reflects on the 695 different locations he has surfed. Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott and David celebrate the greatest story to emerge in recent history in CT surfing, marvel at Gabriela Bryan going toe-to-toe with Jordy, are flummoxed by an Olympic power play, and get swept away by the whimsy of Phil Edwards. Plus Dukes and Kooks. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Chas celebrate surfing’s outlaw DNA, make a case for going straight, Kelly’s kid finally picks his own name, locals begin to resent their status, and we learn why dodging the barrel might be the ultimate Barrel. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Scott recap their El Salvador trip, profile the biggest charlatan in surf history, bid farewell to Olympic long boarding, welcome the first ever CT event at Burleigh, and bow to Mr. Wayne Lynch. Plus Dukes, Kooks, and more! Enjoy!
In today’s show David returns from El Salvador to share a blueprint for how to thrive in a lineup of COVID VALs, Filipe represents a totem for society’s victim mentality, Chas laments the shifting of local enforcer turned playground bully, and we discover the moment Kelly altered a lifelong health practice to collect a paycheck. Plus Barrel or Nah?
In today’s show former pro surfer turned writer Jason Borte shares stories from writing Kelly Slater’s autobiography, offers insights into Pharrell’s new wave pool, recalls riding the dot com boom and bust in surf, gives tips to artfully time an exit, and reveals why Virginia is for lovers. Enjoy!
In today’s action packed show, the WSL loses another marquee surfer to mental health distress, Mayhem sues Lada Gaga and opens a closet of skeletons, the boys then identify the cause of your awful surfing, get baited out to lascivious deviants, and learn why you should never trust someone with a urinal in their home. Plus Barrel or Nah?!
In today’s show inventive surfboard shaper Bill “Stretch” Riedel five decades of keystone moments in design revolution, breaking his neck and becoming patient one for a radical life saving procedure, how success can bankrupt a business, and why nostalgia and ego are the antithesis of progression. Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas and David identify a new celebrity + surfer doppelgänger, celebrate the reprobates, explain why the WSL is now begging for Johns, and outline how a maligned child’s game is the way to revitalize our youth and perspective on equality. Plus Barrel or Nah?!
In today’s show David and Scott unearth a trove of 1960s Surfer mags, marvel at the raw expression of Shane Herring, make and argument for the no-make, assess the controversy in Puerto Rico, and takes notes from a pivotal flash point in surfboard design evolution. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
In today’s episode filmmaker Nathan Oldfield shares why he doesn’t watch this own films, how staying attuned to one’s self requires active work, why melancholy is fuel, silliness is sacred, and how connecting to personal grief has deepened his work as a high-school teacher. Enjoy!
In today’s show one former CT event winner outs himself as an Andrew Tate acolyte, a former 5x event winner comes out of retirement, the boys learn why you should never meet your pro surf heroes, vow to never again play grab-ass, and deem the great surf mag publication of all time. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott and David revel in a rare MP art project, attempt to steal precious commodity from hardcore locals, prepare for an impending and unforecasted tsunami, and work tirelessly to not get sick from fellow surfers. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas and David explain why your step-off barrel is masturbatory, how to lose priority on the next set, why nobody wants surfboard “tech”, how the fairer sex is less fair than we were led to believe, and why breakfast in bed will ruin your relationship. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas and David exclaim “No barrel for you!”, mock manchilds defending their spot, warn against the consequences of pumping too hard, advise how to handle witnessing a friend rollerblading, and finally dissolve an age-old toilet seat ritual. Enjoy!
In today’s show shaper and college professor Gary Larson reveals who he believes is the greatest shaper of all time, the design feature that defines a great surfboard, how looking back provides direction for innovation, and discusses the weight of stewarding a 75 year shaping legacy. Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas and David identify the fulcrum that will make or break Natural Selection surf, reveal that Soli Bailey could have been a major league catcher, explain why wielding a chainsaw is your path to success, and confirm the hidden joys of finding your Eskimo Brother. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show Snapt filmmaker Logan Dulien shares the details of how he spearheaded the effort to take down the crime syndicate who was targeting SoCal surfers, reveals the wild earnings from his heyday as a tour manager, and discusses the importance of curating a surf film in the modern era of immediacy. Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott and David mark three distinct cornerstones for competitive surfing that all took place this week in Micronesia, identify “approach” as a key judging criteria, lament the roundhouse being lauded as the WSL’s recent high watermark, and advocate for “Big Energy” as true North. Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas and David witness the indignity of a surf superhero being relegated into wave pool submission, shudder at the recent round of Pipe maimings, have AI recommend their next surfboard, and reveal Olympic surfings next venue. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s episode Conde Nast’s former visual editor shares how an early experience caddying for Lisa Anderson sparked a career change, a passion to share the transformative experience of surfing with non-surfers, lessons gleaned from twelve writers about twelve iconic surfers, and how time spent in the ocean might be key to whole body restoration. Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott and David attempt to articulate Mamiya’s magic, tease apart artistry vs technical proficiency, officially note a changing of the guard, and come to consensus of the best surfer in 2025. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
In today’s Valentine’s themed show, Chas and David recount Hollywood x Surfing’s greatest power couples, bid farewell to 59% of Surfival League, give you the perfect VDay gift recs, and cement Five S’s that will lead you to finding the love of your life. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott and David invest heavily in single-fins, acknowledge the immutable momentum of your foundational first surfs, tease apart the difference between talent and success, and evangelize the virtues of the Yin Yang Twin. Enjoy!
In today’s show David discovers the finest way to ingest the Pipe Pro, Chas uncovers the WSL’s secret backmasking, Filipe finally conquers Pipeline, and the boys get to the very center of an important matter of the heart. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott shares one of the most under appreciated Pipe Master’s stories, David pins his title hopes on one long-in-the-tooth surf hero, the Swoosh re-enters the surf space, and Mike Hyson’s influence lives on to inspire a new generation. Enjoy!
In today’s episode one lucky (albeit cowardly) listener learns a valuable life lesson from the world’s greatest big wave rider, JJF sweeps the knee of the already fledgling WSL, Chas designs the ultimate Hollywood vehicle for Sterling Spencer, and David pines for surfing aristocracy of yore. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show Rusty shares the flashpoint in his career that defined this shaping. Taylor Knox reveals Rusty’s role in his interest in surfing and later in his wild success on the rail. And Jojo Roper recounts his history run from Peahi, to The Eddie, to Maverick’s and how none of it would have been possible with Rusty. Live from The Belly Up, it’s Talk Story with Rusty and his tribe. Enjoy!
In today’s show the tables turn on Scott for a round of “Who Said That”, the WSL slips into panic mode as their current Champ opts out while Scott identifies a viable “marquee” replacement, and the 11x Champ rises again from ashes to test his half-century old bones against his calcium dense colleagues at Pipe. Enjoy!
In today’s show Kolohe Andino chats about the weight of expectation, why satisfaction can threaten ambition, how having children highlights the absurdity of professional surf pursuits, his idea for a restructured Tour, and why groms will always be the fertile core of surfing’s soul. Enjoy!
In today’s show Fast Eddie uses Da Hui’s pulpit to smite the white man, we officially kiss goodbye surfing’s greatest would-be rivalry, museums of memorabilia get vanquished by fire, and we get to the dirty bottom of the Chinese wax job. Plus Barrel or Nah?!
In today’s show Scott and David report on Gabe’s injury and potential replacement, recap the Da Hui Shootout, set picks for Pipe, and celebrate the lives of an industry titan and a North Star for style in and out of the water. Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas and David welcome the world’s prettiest man into the surf community, warn against the dangers of being a P.U.B.E., outline core tenets to attain Duke status for today’s surfing youth, and Chas explains how to ensure your child spends their future in therapy. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Scott take account for the unsung water safety heroes at colossal wave locations, recap the Da Hui Backdoor Shootout, tabulate the total costs of surf tourism, an pay homage to perhaps the most under appreciated surfer of all time. Enjoy!
In today’s show, the 23 year old who just rode the “largest wave ever ridden” talks us through the wave itself, the prep, the media maelstrom that followed, the unique board that Stretch built for him, how 100’ surf is only accessible via a team of people, and why he didn’t celebrate the historic ride. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Chas explain why your kid will never a pro surfer if you aren’t one, warn against the dangers of Mister Softee, gawk at the largest wave ever surfed, mathematically conclude the appropriate number of surf photos you’re allowed to post on Instagram, and explain why surf culture is the utopia that inspired Japanese society. Plus Barrel or Nah?
In today’s show, Scott and David made their bold predictions for 2025; rookie world champs, AI judging, retirements, Hollywood movies, and more! Here’s to a prosperous new year for all. Enjoy!
Today’s episode is hosted by Brad Gerlach with Occy as a guest! Recorded at Niyama Resort in the Maldives, Brad and Occy analyze Occy’s technique to provide basic truths about head and hand placement and body positioning to unlock your next level of surfing. Enjoy!
In today’s show, traditional masculinity returns, the prestigious Edward Invitational reasserts surfing’s core values, then David and Chas crack the code for the perfect nap, plot how to steal wine back from a holiday party, and resolve to take all life advice from Matthew McConaughey in 2025. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Scott attempt to wrap their minds around the massive swell that is still pouring through the Pacific while discussing the phenomenal Eddie, historic Mavericks, near flawless Peahi, and how to dodge the local crowd at your home break. Enjoy!
In today’s show San Diego’s surfboard and surfwear icon Rusty joins us to explain how his MIT mathematician father’s missive to follow his passion led him to art school and then to surfboards, learning how to push past moments of self-doubt, the secret unlock to Occy’s ’84 Thruster, the perils of licensing deals, and why some of the best design developments come from mistakes. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Chas celebrate a Christmas miracle in the form of a walrus, uncover the secret to winning a Pipe Master’s title, warn parents against the dangers of surf coaching, and advocate for the return of the dapper grandpa. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Scott recap the (Florence) Pipe Masters and reveal the greatest surf story of 2024, develop a strategy to manifest one’s own will, celebrate the streamer/commentator who won a surf contest, shift focus towards Waimea, and prep for the swell of the winter. Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas and David’s inspiration behind their persona’s is revealed, Filipe inadvertently reveals his mental health to ESPN, Hawaiian enforcers shoot themselves in own feet, and they identify the precise reason VANS won’t pay to live stream the Pipe Masters. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show surfing’s foremost historian reveals the pro surfer who saved his life at age 12, the gift of finding 50 year old surf footage from his youth, the unsung heroes lost to surf history, how history is shaped by those who elect to share it, and why is more important than ever to cement archiving surf history.
In today’s show Scott and David predict the implications of the surf apparel “industry” wreckage, attempt to find the Pipe Masters, find refuge in new surfboards, and finally accept that it was, indeed, better yesterday. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Chas identify the single most important surf fan of all-time and anoint their sainthood, the then pivot into a True Crime podcast, reveal the most unlikely rags to riches surf story, dispense garbage financial advice, and give a single tip to mint a solid gold marriage. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s episode Holly Beck recounts her rapid rise into professional surfing and disillusionment, becoming an inadvertent model, expatriate freedoms, the fallacy of reality TV, and the holistic healing inherent to surfing. Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott and David survey the start contrast between the desert and Eden, marvel at the latest double barrel at Pipe, guffaw at the recent void of live streaming, announce the latest big wave comp, and celebrate past kings who shirked the limelight. Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas and David advise best methods to milk the clock and stick it to the main, explain why finding a surf nemesis is your fastest route to ripping, navigate the trickiness of a prone take-off, and caution against offering to coach a youth sports team. Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott reveals the quickest way to release serotonin, David shares the secret to J.O.B.’s virality, the boys survey how Surf Witches are stealing market share from the WSL, recenter their attention on the North Shore, and identify how prioritizing self-interest is an oxymoron. Enjoy!
Pipeline aficionado Liam McNamara joins us to discuss how growing up in a commune on welfare informed his approach to surfing on the North Shore, the single financial decision that salvaged his career earnings, how shepherding Hawaii’s youth rectifies past misdeeds, and why his last session at Pipe was nearly his last day on earth. Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas takes back what was rightfully his (from Ashton and from ChatGPT), David identifies a potential new WSL owner, Italo goes under the knife, Drouyn tries to get under the covers, and the boys determine the precise number of possessions needed to unlock happiness. Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott returns with tales from Tavarua and cautions of Cloudbreak, David announces our next listener surf trip, and the boys celebrate Rasta’s EAST winner, the return of the North Shore season, and JJF bequeathes another piece of fine art for the surf world to admire. Enjoy!
In today’s show we hear from Jersey board builder Brian Wynn about how he built a career on doing what no else wanted to do, the fastest way to expedite one’s learning curve, why staying small is recession safe, and how ice hockey staves off burn-out. Enjoy!
In today’s show, medium wave surfer Z-Pain protests too much love for Queen P, Curren spots a podcaster in the wild, Slater KO’s Samuel Jackson & Vin Diesel, and David and Chas rank the least sexy instruments to play whilst naked. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy.
In today’s show Chas and David celebrate Leonardo Dicaprio’s birthday with a guide how to avoid the indignities of self-celebration, being sung to at a restaurant, perpetually dating 25 year olds, and explain why Martha Stewart might be the ultimate catch. Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas and David advise on what to do if you catch your girlfriend tracking your sexual performance, how to shame a pack of unruly teen boys, why you should never snake a dude with cauliflowered ears, and Drummer Dave calls in from beyond the veil. Plus Barrel or Nah?!
In today’s show our current and 2x longboard champ joins us to discuss how achieving a life goal can dilute future ambition, why pro longboarders net negative $ on Tour, the WSL’s reason for not acknowledging her as their youngest ever world champ, the ongoing influence of Terry Martin, and how she co-founded a women surf news media outlet. Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas tamps down the election fervor with a reminder that amusement can, and should, be found in all of life’s pursuits and charts a course to thrive through any political fallout via art, food, and indulgence. Learn how herein! Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott and David welcome the return of the Hawai’i season, reveal the secret ingredient to EAST, reinvest in their miseducation about fins, and unearth never-before-seen archival Tom Curren footage and amplify his lore. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Chas’s favorite trans surfer teases an OnlyFans page, surfing youngest champ gets silenced by the WSL, ELO spritzes Poo-Pourri over his own grave, someone rips themselves a new B-hole, and a listener reveal why you should sleep with your new surfboard. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Scott rediscover the virtues of Haleiwa, marvel at Slater’s ever-improving talent, dissect when less is more, celebrate the inception of Natural Selection Surf, and get inside info the challenges of working with flax. Enjoy!
In today’s show, while our Presidential candidates “work the fry”, Chas and David reflect back on their first jobs, chart how menial jobs led to careers, and identify the moment where youthful enthusiasm to earn shifted to a lifetime of resentful ire. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Chas discover the one surfer who attended a Diddler White Party, feel shame as Prince Harry’s surpasses their surf ability, defend Abu Dhabi’s anti-Tyler Wright’s stance, attempt to appreciate the surf boardslide, and explain when it’s appropriate for your ladyfriend to give up shotgun for your quiver. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s episode Richie charts the rise and fall of Wave Tools, why shaping his own boards hindered his title hopes, how a radical lesson in humility transformed his worldview, why he never understood the concept of “soul” surfer until he quit surfing, his regrets attempting to raise a professional surf daughter, and why his next chapter will be focused on attempting to feel joy. Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott and David recap the 2024 Boardroom Show highlights; McTavish expanding his legendary status, Arenal cementing his, the camaraderie of the surf community, and why it always comes back to the surfboard. Also, controversy erupts ahead of the 2025 CT season as a 2x WSL Champ faces imprisonment if she competes at event #2. Enjoy!
Today's mega-episode finds Chas and David at the world-famous Boardroom Show. Smith hunkered down in a Weekend Van interviewing a who's who of surfers, shapers, mathematicians, dear listeners, hall-of-famers and doctors while David worked the floor. The conversations are fun, loose and come from every corner of the surf world even though Noble Rot is decidedly anti-surf talk. Rules, however, were made to be broken. Enjoy! Interview subjects include Karen Howard and Devon Howard, Mike Kijewski, John Money, Shea Somma, Dr. Bill Rosenblatt, Alex Hemmingway, Darryl Evora, Ryan Convertini, and Mike May.
In today’s show Chas and David speculate which surfers may be fingered in a Freak Off, find bros attempting to go viral at Hurricane Milton, the WSL reveals their ’25 season and which familiar faces will return to the CT, and the boys ponder the consequence of a silent retreat. Plus Barrel or Nah? Enjoy!
Polarizing professional surf icon of the 80s/90s, Richie Collins, reflects on the benefits and consequence of being raised by a local enforcer, learning to live up to the family reputation and then taking it too far, the inescapable dread of regret, why he doesn’t surf anymore, and the deep value of knowing one’s family history. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Scott outline McTavish’s Boardroom Show quiver, discover Rasta’s secret life hack, revisit The Snap Heard ‘Round The World, and embrace a common clothing material as the next major advancement in surfboard construction. Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas and David plot a course of fandom and anti-fandom for food they would tattoo on their temple’s, teams for which they would bleed, clothing brands they would shill to their friends, and they relive the adolescent heartbreak that calloused their heart’s so. Plus Heroes and Zeros! Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Chas discover the correct name for a “flip-flop”, plumb the depths of Richie Collins, learn how to never poo in front of Tom Curren, explain why you should never keep a board on ice, get re-traumatized by the decorative soap from their childhood. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show rock climbing blazes a trail for surfing, Andy Irons makes a case for less foam, Clay Marzo returns from the future to offer a peak at 2034, the boys discover the greatest surf city on the planet, and yet another teen gal bursts on to center stage. Enjoy!
In today’s show someone sets the course to win a title on a self-shape, JJF politely declines hero-status and finds honor as everyman, mythic free-surf wunderkind embarks on new career as shaper, and Rasta tours the US to showcase the world’s most enviable quiver. Enjoy!
Today Dick Metz details his friendship with Rabbit Kekai, explains how his real estate empire was built from one vacant lot in Aspen, why buying back the Hobie stores (four times) was more profitable than selling them, and how archiving surf history through surfboards has become his life’s greatest work. Enjoy!
In today’s episode Chas and David design the most sophisticated surf report of modern times, identify the moment where surf fashion jumped the shark, celebrate the generosity of the surf enclave, and explain the dangers of renewing your wedding vows. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
Metz is back! Today he tells us about selling his surf shop to Gerry Lopez to launch the Hobie Cat, venturing into the surf wear biz where the female customer unlocks an empire, and he learns valuable lessons in prudence and how to time an exit. Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas sets a course, with guidance from one Circe Wallace, to blueprint the ideal modern man. How to: eat phallic food in public, embrace one’s femininity, the allure of the bad boy, and why trauma harnesses the DNA for the ultimate modern man.
In today’s show David identifies the single most influential surfer of all time, Scott reveals the secret origins of one of the world’s greatest shapers, then the boys revel in the rebel big wave tour and observe how a perfect work/life/surf balance is the key to aging gracefully. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Chas bask in the pleasure of being sprayed in the face, identify precisely why surf culture has become so foppish, take notes from the moment Raygun broke dancing, and caution why you should always trust your gut. Plus Barrel or Nah?!
English professor/shaper Charles Mencel joins us to edify on the Jersey beach badges, help illuminate the shore’s deep history beyond the stereotypes, herald their music culture’s influence on surfing, and chart the travails of scaling a local board building business. Enjoy!
In light of James Earl Jones’ passing and amidst the era of Insta model fame, where hast the art of speaking gone? How to fake an accent, learn a language, seduce a lover, and earn 17 million dollars, all herein. Enjoy!
In today’s show, Chas submit’s his candidacy for president on the platform of shifting Holidates, eradicating society of baggage claim blockers, Brazilian Butt-Lifting his way to First Class, and why you should aspire to owning a 1976 Corvette Sting Ray. Plus Heroes and Zeros!
Surprise! Chas Smith takes use through pop culture's most salacious headlines; an A-List marriage on the rocks over political ideology, public shaming an heiress DJ's mothering, a celeb couple bequeaths their fortune to divorce lawyers, architecting a pop star, and how to protect your kid from becoming a true crime story. Take it all in . . . after dark!
In today’s show Scott and David unwind Finals Day, gawk at the world-champ level performances, tease apart the almost controversial judging, right the historical record about who did it first, and predict what comes next for our two new champs. Enjoy!
Whilst watching Finals Day, Chas and David comment live and shudder at the impending clutch of Big Brother, are bequeathed with the gift a bright future, learn why Britt loves Billy, and accept the reality that less is often more. Enjoy!
On today’s Trestles themed show Scott and David celebrate a major win at San-O, watch the Lowers freesurf, make final 5 assessments, give a peak behind the WSL’s shifts in 2025, and petition to bring back “Buzzy”. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott identifies the greatest surf prodigy since Slater, David reveals the most volatile and secret rivalry on Tour, then the boys map a potential JJF retirement party, and dissect Derek Hynd’s recent Influencer Power Rankings. Plus Duke and Kooks! Enjoy!
In today’s show the WSL gets outed on Tucker Carlson for silencing athletes, Ivanka hits Surf Ranch, Carissa reveals she surfed the Olympics with a baby on board, Billy’s rep gets further besmirched by a fan on the street, Stab refuses to acknowledge your existence. Plus Barrel or Nah?!
Quietly and immeasurably influencing the surf world, Jon Roseman's stewardship of Cloudbreak has been cosigned by Fijian tribal leaders and pro surfers alike. Today he shares stories from 30 years of swells, why his best surfing is still ahead of him, and how he hopes to convert his experiences and a newly earned MBA from Yale into sustainable success for Tavarua's future. Enjoy!
In today’s show David recaps his recent journey to Southern California’s preeminent wave pool, then the boys celebrate the (potentially) greatest comeback in surfing, speculate on the true history of Tavarua, and out the Hollywood director who thinks you’re a jerk. Plus Dukes and Kooks!
In today’s show Dave Nelson reflects on the gift that was skating while growing up in the epicenter of tech, how one early gift from mom would dictate his life’s passion, the magic of living on Reunion Island in the early 90s, and how surf photography led him from darkness and allowed him to service something far greater than his own pursuits. Enjoy!
In today’s show Raygun teaches us a valuable lesson about surf culture, Kemper’s secret celebrity progeny is revealed, Mexi surfers position to oust Brazil as surf world’s finest, and one multi-time female champ gets outed for subjugating one lowly working-class surf fan. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today's show Scott's prescient predictions come to fruition in the most unexpected of ways, Surfer Mag returns to print, Nathan Florence is bestowed yet another dignitary honor, JJF shows up at Lowers to foreshadow a third crown, and one 52 year old surfer once again manifests the wave of winter. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Chas finally understand the unbearable lightness of being Filipe, identify the exact dollar amount for Billy Kemper’s friendship, voice concern about Stab’s authoritarian censorship, and explain how to rinse the pee out of your wetsuit without losing your brine. Enjoy!
In today’s show Mark Sausen explains how he landed on Kauai in 1970, why humility is a gateway to universal acceptance, the biggest concerns with the tech autocrat invasion on island, why it takes 20 years to get Hanalei dialed, and how to surf well into your 60s. Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott and David survey the seascape after the Olympic’s, enumerate the medals, visualize 2028, identify why IOC censorship is the antithesis of surfing, and explain why a chlorinated playing field is a sad but inevitable eventuality. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
In today's show, live from the streets of Paris, Chas and David assess why the greatest day of surfing hasn't made a mainstream splash, shame Pedro Scooby for slandering a venerable veteran of our sport, marvel at the idiocy of athlete's promoting their own failure, and Carissa one-ups Gabe's famed kick out with the grandest our sport has ever seen. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today's show Anastasia Ashley recounts lessons learned as a haole grom on the North Shore, winning a Pipe event at age 23, embracing surf's sex appeal to build a business, turning down a six-figure paycheck from Playboy, why "professional" surfing eroded the joy, and how she's revitalized her passion. Enjoy!
In today's show Scott and David marvel in what might be the biggest, most viewed day of surfing ever. From the world champ whose limelight dimmed to the unexpected hero who earned the highest total of the day, if surfing ever breaches the mainstream, day three of the Olympics will have been the day to do it. The boys recap it all herein. Enjoy!
It's finally happened, Chas Smith has been cancelled. A mob of Brazilians, Olympic and WSL legal teams, and Meta descended to effectively silenced @SurfJournalist. Today he speaks on the events, the aftermath, and what's next as the world shifts focus towards the End Of The Road and what this all means for freedom of speech and civilization as we known it. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show Chris Christenson recounts the time Tiger Woods got him disqualified from a golf tournament, why Dick Brewer invested in him, how Clark Foam’s closure was the best thing that ever happened, and discusses inadvertently going to war with a corporate behemoth and becoming an environmental activist in the process. Enjoy!
In today’s show Diffenderfer explains the impossibility of scaling a custom board biz, Warshaw highlights a little known pioneering moment in women’s surfing, Mandala gives deeper insight into the virtues of the Twinzer and the mystique of Wil Jobson, and Internet goes to war over the value of public shaming. Enjoy!
In today’s show get a VIP out of the doghouse, identify when it’s time to quit surfing, feast on a Blood Feud between two of their favorite shapers, explain how NOT to make magic happen in the bedroom, and unlock the secret to eternal youth. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today's show Scott and David dive head first into an ice bath and emerge reinvigorated by the prodigal return of Dave Rastovich, attempt to redefine the terms that describe his craft, celebrate the Month of The Laminator, pick the wildest of Wildcards, and lament the latest Olympic forecast. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
Nainoa is back to explain why having a focused leader is the secret to building magic boards, how learning history enriches both work and play, why it’s a bad idea to fake it until you make it, and why sucking only a little grants you access to powerful teachers. Enjoy!
In today’s show laminator Nainoa Speier shares how his personal journey to discover his family’s origins connected him to a network of SoCal surf icons, how teenaged vandalizing informed his future resin works, and why overseas surfboard manufacturing erodes the bedrock of surf culture. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Chas assess the tragedy at Teahupo’o mere weeks prior to the Olympics, blush at Billy Kemper’s foray onto OnlyFans, outline definitive rules for which craft is allowed at specific breaks, and discover the noblest of rots. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott and David identify how early trauma may yield profound surfing, celebrate Creed’s embrace of Scott’s favorite board, help define simply terms for WSL judges, and give YOU the opportunity to win a surf comp. Enjoy!
Live! from Paris, the Grit! celebrates Independence abroad while shaming the pro surf simps Hawk Tuah-ing the Zuck, David and Chas devise a Brotherhood of the Traveling Single-Fin, explain the value in making one’s self scarce, prepare to divulge their profits to the corp, and vow to never tattoo their kids names on their temple. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s Independence Day themed show the boys identify the greatest surfer to ever hail from Texas, calculate Italo’s hyperactivity vs Cloudbreak’s steadiness, track the devolution of Puerto Escondido, and Scott regales us with his story of riding a sea turtle. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Chas attempt an intervention, fight feeling awkward at a pool party, pinpoint why KK can’t get no respect, lament their influence over Italo, and explain why surfing’s future will be about doing less. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
Kauai waterman Terry Chung joins us to talk about his recent trip to foil Nazare with Laird, raising well-adjusted children on Kauai, his journey through board building, the evolution of the surf foil, and how to sustain big wave wipeouts at the age of 65. Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott connects the dots between childhood trauma and great works, David Occy’s enduring influence, and then the boys applaud Stab High, set an important record straight, and honor the character and life of Tamayo Perry. Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas and David finally get starstruck, then fully flummoxed by a gifted single-fin, lambast a sacrilegious surf cultural appropriating Influencer, and explain why flossing might ruin your marriage. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
Denver native and rock crawling enthusiast, Jeff McCallum joins us to detail the exact qualitative difference between domestic and imported surfboards, explain how the evolution of surfboard design can be seen in a Skip Frye rail, reveal the hypocrisy of “sustainability”, and illustrate how foil distinguishes master shapers from everyone else. Enjoy!
In today's show Scott and David revel in the JBay Classic, embrace Gerr's missive for individuality, design the ideal surf bout, make a bold prediction for Stab High, celebrate the highest earning year in professional surfing, and map a plan for how to handle the filthiest beach day of the year. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas and David attempt to delicately balance gratitude without sacrificing ambition, celebrate Kolohe 2.0, identify the hottest Rodent Men on Tour, and reckon with an impending midlife crisis. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
The fourth generation San Diegan writer & editor joins us to discuss failing to “de-Barney-fy” longboarding, his private correspondence with Miki Dora, his ongoing love affair with Cuba, and how a life of avowed poverty yielded an endlessly rich lifestyle. Enjoy!
In today’s show Finnegan’s article on Jock Sutherland begs Scott and David to question all their life’s choices, they celebrate the pursuit of pleasure, connect the hilarity of farts with high IQ, and identify the greatest surfer to never win a world title. Enjoy!
In today’s show, Scott recaps session of his life last week in Indo before he and David recap the El Salvador event, celebrate free surfing in a CT event, take advice from Mark Richards, and plea to save the bastion of surf frontier in SoCal. Enjoy!
Devon Howard returns to reflect on having a cool mom, inadvertently becoming a surfboard designer, spraying his wife in the face, the dangers on the other side of success, and what Ancient Greece has taught him about style. Enjoy!
Today’s show gets infiltrated by the CIA’s Midnight Climax, JJF’s destiny gets set in stone, Kalani Robb’s pristine persona gets flayed by a bad joke, and the boys explain how to plant covert seeds of psychic warfare to manipulate your spouse into booking you a surf trip. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show, broadcast from Indonesia, revel in the greatest two days of surf viewing, bow to Vahine, question if Italo is back, reassess the GOAT’s dominance, and spread rumors about 2025. Enjoy!
In today’s show Captain Liz Clark details the childhood experience that empowered her to solo sail the Pacific for a decade, the most terrifying moment at sea, the dietary shift that disappeared her chronic illness, and what remote civilizations taught her about humanity. Enjoy!
In today’s show Noa Deane transitions, Laird’s actual diet is revealed, a Snake Oil Salesman attempts to sully a surf mag, Andy buys drinks for everyone at Mundaka, and Pros In The Wild hits the big time. Plus Barrel or Nah?!
In today’s show Scott uncovers the rabble-rouser who demands combat surfing, David finds Filipe facing his fears, then a couple teen girls finally force them to confront whether they are misogynist or simply ignorant. Enjoy!
The land artist and Outstanding In The Field founder joins to explain why being caught inside is the pinnacle of surfing, how his mother’s language of math is encoded in his artwork, dance as ultimate therapy, and how the difference between failure and success is an illusion of perspective. Enjoy!
In today’s show David finds transcendence through sand drawing, Chas becomes a podcast listener, and the boys gauge the value of a surf coach, campaign for equality for kneeboarders, and advise for how best to approach a pro in the wild. Plus Barrel or Nah?!
Craftsman Josh Martin joins us to discuss inventing the Shark Board, why people morph into looking like their dog, how ancient materials may be the future of board building, constructing a camper out of surfboard material, and making a living as an Instagram Influencer. Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott and David marvel at perhaps the greatest surf discovery of the decade, relive the moment in surfing where everything went hi-pro, isolate the single wave wherein female surfing hit it’s simultaneous highest and lowest point, and HB solidifies its place as a fundamentalist fighting ground. Enjoy!
In today’s Mother’s Day celebration episode David and Chas search for Filipe in the weeks leading into Teahupo’o, discover the fallacy eternal youth, learn from Laird how to stand up to bullies, and explain why you should be a worse spouse. Plus Barrel or Nah? Enjoy!
Jersey native Sam Hammer joins us to discuss how losing in contests led to a pro surf career, how seeds of relationships can birth enduring paychecks, how cold water has been his gateway to longevity, and the power of under-exertion. Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott reveals the unexpected and totally welcome return of print and the boys celebrate unsung legends from the big wave world, mourn the latest barbaric brutality in Baja, and marvel at the latest misstep at The League. Enjoy!
In today's show FISHER gives the WSL the shaft (and balls) while the boys explain why surfing's best pundits are kooks, search for pro surfings first "out" male, then Chas picks a fight with one of the world's most notable shapers and David reveals a secret that may have him officially cancelled. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
The Australian Surfing Hall of Famer joins us to discuss how riding a wooden fence picket led to a surfboard revolution, how cosmic design rights all injustice, why you’re riding the wrong fins, and the creative growth that is unlocked by killing the ego. Enjoy!
In today’s show Kelly’s hip returns to peak performance and he uses twin scalpels to showcase the limitations of the judges, Barton reveals the pugilistic end to his partying, David and Scott sign a petition to GOAT to the Olympics and discover why humility is the path to progress. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Chas chart the best board for your body type, explain why the Rider Is Always Right, warn of the financial perils of pitaya in paradise, reveal the one word that will ruin your sex life, and map the precise age you should spawn offspring. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
Mr. Sunset opens up about the anxieties of wartime during the Vietnam draft, eating a tablecloth (literally) to earn the license for Quiksilver, the value of ignorance, earning and losing a small fortune, conquering a 30 year substance addiction, and positioning himself to surf into 100 years of age. Enjoy!
In today’s show, Scott and David unpack how Marg’s has morphed into a progressive wave, verify Kelly’s road to requalification in 2025, map a path toward surfboard sustainability, and question how the poster boy for surf corps has become the rebellion leader. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy.
In today’s “Surf Past Your Prime” themed episode, the boys advise on how to get your first barrel in your 50s, question why Kelly’s closest friend’s are forcing him to retire, explain the perils of a one wave session, and finally discover whether it’s harder to be a surfer or a swinger. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott and David reflect on El Salvador, take wagers on the WSL’s new CEO’s longevity, reminisce about each of their first memories of Kelly, suggest how he should use his retirement, and identify precisely when to let go prior to getting dragged. Enjoy!
Maui laminator Nic Timpone joins us to discuss the weight and privilege of continuing a five decade legacy of board building, how incremental improvements in sustainable materials net meaningful change, the fallacy of Instagram virality, and why he’ll be ditching his board henceforth. Enjoy!
In today’s episode David discovers that yes, surfing is easy, but it’s a lot of work, Chas muster the energy to get the new WSL CEO fired, and the boys discuss the cost of Kelly’s greatness, the lion who tamed the Wolf Pack, the next big trend in surf fashion, and how to ruin an otherwise perfect gift. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
Live from El Salvador! David and Scott recap their sessions, their boards, the waves, devise how to shred into their 60s and then discuss Kelly’s remorseful interview with TVC, make Marg’s picks, and celebrate Steph’s first board purchase post-Tour. Enjoy!
Professional surfer, author, ecofeminist, mother, Lauren Hill joins us to discuss how a commitment to curiosity has resulted in an unlikely surf career, an even less likely life as a farmer, and the cosmic premonition that inspired her to move across the world in a quest to stay centered. Enjoy!
Pro surfer turned shaper, Shane Stoneman discusses the immeasurable influence environment plays in one’s work and well-being, the restorative virtues of painting, music as a conduit to connect with his children, and how to mitigate the physical trauma of shaping surfboards. Enjoy!
In today’s episode Chas dives shallow into ELO’s public diary, David discovers truths about why Mormon’s aren’t dominating pro surfing, they then discover why public shaming is the tough road to success, and explain why hangovers only happen to losers. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today's episode the boys wax poetic on the psyche of Gabe Medina and decode his vulnerabilities to make predictions for the midyear cut, temper their celebrations for the San Clemente Cyclone, bid farewell to Kelly, and determine precisely what type of friend foam actually is. Plus Must-See Moments! Enjoy!
In today's show Chas spawns a spite baby, David becomes an expert on neurological disorders, and then the boys explain why yellow boards are better, which surfer you should bet on for 2025, which religious group you should invest in, and explain how to deal with soft talkers. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
Patrick Trefz joins us to discuss how primary cooking lessons from his mother and a missive of exploration from his father led to 30+ years of travel, a tenure at Surfer Magazine, analysis of his friends through documentary, and the idea that food might leave the most indelible imprint of a culture. It’s all chronicled in his latest book, Ode To Travel and in today’s conversation. Enjoy!
In today's show Scott and David discuss their controversial narrow escape at Winkipop, Joao's new trajectory in life, question if foam is actually your friend, celebrate the deal of a lifetime in So Cal beach real estate, and Scott reveals his secret life as a poet. Enjoy!
In today’s show David unleashes the power within! Chas gender reveals Kellani’s baby! Peck makes a spooky appearance, Conner Coffin sees the dentist, and we all quake in the presence of the shop girl. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s episode Scott and David check in with the world’s oldest big wave surfer and plot the best use of unused surfboards, Kelly adds fatherhood (again) to his 2024 schedule, Dane gets a job working retail, and they dissect perhaps the greatest take-off ever captured on film. Enjoy!
In our final installment, AJW reminds us why it’s often preferably to not have a plan, how fasting for 10 days led to him catching the wave of his life at Peahi and a broken heart led him to a nude hot spring in the mountains of Japan, and how accepting a job at gunpoint evolved into a flourishing business relationship. Enjoy!
In today’s show from Revelstoke, Canada, Chas reports live from Natural Selection and David defines criteria to “identify” as a surfer, Carissa does a deal with Dior, Lisa deals in boards, and Jimbo goes toe-to-toe with Mother Nature for the heavyweight bout to end all humanity. Plus Barrel or Nah?!
Adam Warden shares the early lesson from his father that gave him the tools to travel the world, how simply showing up nurtures opportunity, the benefit of being willing to take a punch, why irrepressibly moxie trumps talent, and the value of not knowing. Part one of two! Enjoy!
In today's episode revel in the day of the year at Cloudbreak and celebrate the unsung filmers who continue to evolve the medium, applaud Kelly for ditching Portugal to get super tubes, wink at Derek Hynd for opting for a surf mat, offer Noah Beschen an award, and hang on every word of Brink's design symposium in Costa Rica. Enjoy!
In today's show Chas gets bamboozled by toxic positivity, David finds meaning in the ashes of surf retail, the GOAT offers a wink and a nod, Gerry cashes-in on his privilege, and Huntington Beach goes full Huntington Beach. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
Retired Marine Combat Photographer Clint Runyon shares how he discovered surfing while stationed on Camp Pendleton (Trestles adjacent), how an economic crunch led him to shaping, building out a surfboard “factory” on deployment, and details the journey to discover the true value of a surfboard. Enjoy!
In today's Father-themed episode, Scott and David honor the latest Olympic qualifiers, lament the lack of waves at Supertubos, pin Bells as Kelly's official "retirement", mark Filipe absent for the Olympics, and pay homage to those who introduced them to surfing. Enjoy!
In today's episode Chas and David identify the precise moment when being a good dad goes too far, weep at the loss of one of surf cultures most important institution, explain why surfing is now easier than ever, laugh at the first "Dick In The Wild", and implore you to avoid hustling at all costs. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s episode Superwolf explains his journey from South Beach Miami’s disco scene, to Southern California’s surfboard factories, how Wavestorm legally plagiarized his resin colorwork, and reveals his alternate life as an underground LA DJ. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Chas learn the value of a grain of salt, celebrate the greatest and worst claims of 2024, search for Butterbean, get burned by a shaper, and a WSL rep attends a Trump fundraiser. Plus Barrel or Nah?!
In today’s show Scott recounts his Internet-breaking barrel ride before the boys postulate that 2024 is the season where the Women’s CT eclipses the Men’s, ponder what happened to the Brazilian Storm, fawn over the latest, greatest mini-surf history documentaries, and bow down to Sunset’s majesty. Enjoy!
Hank Warner returns to share the moment that inspired him to become a father, detail the dwindling profit margin of surfboards, recount the greatest surfing he’s ever witnessed, and explain why he’s opts to never retire. Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas and David are divided over the Filipe’s debacle, only to be reunited by DJ Seaweed’s high art, a tale of surfing’s original Buddha, and then they offer grave warnings to never let your baby’s photo be taken on the beach at Pipe. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
San Diego native, apprentice to board building pioneers worldwide, Godfather to pro surfers, 57 years of shaping, 30,000 boards deep, Hank Warner shares tales from a life immersed in foam dust, brethren, and the sea. Part 1 of 2. Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott and David react to Filipe’s unexpected and sudden departure for the ’24 CT season, revel in the single greatest day of women’s competitive surfing, celebrate surfing’s return to profanity, and batten down the hatches for Paumalu. Enjoy!
In today’s show Filipe must stand in defense of a Few Good ___ while his family digs him a deeper hole and Moana sacks up, a big clothing brand steals a surfboard, the David and Chas blueprint how to simultaneously game the algorithm and perfect a comedy routine. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
Chris Ruddy recounts his teenaged voyage from Hawaii to San Diego, the gift of access and opportunity given to him by Joe Roper, regifting it to Marcio Zouzi, how corporate manufacturing has replaced pioneering board builders, and how moving inland solves an economic puzzle and unlocks a tenfold opportunity. Enjoy!
In today's show Scott and David revel over two of the Pipe Pro, are aghast at the former champ's loses, celebrate the working class heroes, lament the that could have been, and find deeper meaning in Filipe's feigned illness. Plus, a blueprint for how to navigate the Pipe pecking order. Enjoy!
In today's show we discover that Filipe's Pipe fear is symptomatic of a much deeper problem (and the direct result of ELO's poo poo touch), Chas sides with North Korea on the Rip Curl transgender controversy, David employs an AI bot to get YouTube famous, and an underground Saffa reminds us why core is cool. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s episode Scott and David recap the opening day of the CT season at Pipe, Filipe’s remarkable act of discourage, why Callum would beat Fil in a “proper wave” Tour, the Wildcard’s comfortability, and how Ethan and Jack are looking primed to join the Gabe vs JJF rivalry. Enjoy!
Laminations San Diego sander Alex Banyay details the inner workings of the most revered surfboard factories, quantifies the human costs of outsourced manufacturing, explains why preserving history requires hiring surfer-labor, and reveals which shaper is responsible for the greatest innovations in modern surfing. Enjoy!
Shea Somma is a surfboard shaper from SLO area. His "Best In Show" entry at The Boardroom International Surfboard Show won 1st Place in 2023. We discuss surfboard shaping, Bonzers, getting into the business, the craft, tools necessary and a bunch more surfboard related discourse.
In today’s show Scott and David discuss Stephanie Gilmore’s (and Carissa Moore’s) departure from the Championship Tour, why it’s the best time to be a surfer and the worst time to be a fan of pro surfing, Kelly’s return from hip surgery, Pipeline’s return to the center stage, and Stab’s homerun project with Kolohe Andino. Enjoy!
It's happened, Carissa Moore announced her retirement from the WSL. David and Chas unpack her dignified exit and the repercussions before celebrating RFK Jr's surf session with Kelly, Billy's Da Hui win, and identifying why Cole Houshmand is destined to fill Slater's shoes in 2024. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
Westlife’s Kian Egan joins us to discuss teenaged, rapid rise to pop music stardom, how discovering surfing allowed him reconnect with his core values, why taking time off stimulates growth, and how a once boy-band is still expanding their popularity and depth into their man-band years. Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Scott try to get to the bottom of the reasons behind and the repercussions of surfing abandoning the youth and the rebellious spirit. They also find Kelly recuperating from surgery, Eimeo’s career perhaps cut short, and Kolohe’s finding a whole new chapter. Enjoy!
Cyrus Sutton Story teller. Eco Entrepreneur? Super smooth goofy foot surfer originally from Orange County, now living in the pacific Northwest; Old soul. Young heart. Deep thinker.
In today's show Scott reveals Bob McTavish (!) as the Icons of Foam honoree for 2024 and delivers reporting back from Surf Expo, while David draws attention to Operation Moby Dick in Rhode Island, then they wonder where Kelly went, question why Gabe's being so maligned by Stab, and question what insiders know about 2024's CT Rookie Of The Year. Enjoy!
In today’s episode filmmaker Darieus Legg extolls the virtues and perils of being raised on a sailboat, explains how valuing external validation is a zero sum game, recounts why creative expression can buoy depression, and shares how his simply pursuit to tell the story of a used surfboard unraveled his life’s calling. Enjoy!
In today's show gargantuan show Chas reveals why grom abuse only hurts the abuser, David discovers the origin of Kelly's turtle obsession, the boys quantify the precise amount of time required to become a local, and ELO's poo poo touch reaches from the unemployment line to continue to dismantle surf biz. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show David and Chas finally uncover Kelly’s predestined metamorphosis, surfing’s preeminent absurdist Vlogger hits his artistic zenith, Coco designs the blueprint for new partner paradigms, and the boys reveal while role play in the bedroom never achieves one’s forecasted fantasy. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today’s show Eden Saul joins us to explain why the mat is the most dynamic surf craft, how he planted Dead Kooks seeds globally for free while gleaning knowledge from the best builders, how increasing production decreased his business growth, and why he’s committed to purchasing other shaper’s surfboards. Enjoy!
In our first episode of 2024, surfed-out Scott and David discuss the Best Swell Ever (?!) to light up California's coast, the mass exodus of pros fleeing lifelong sponsors, the Pipeline pioneer who could use your acknowledgement, and the recount the single best waves surfed in 2023. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
In the final show of the year, Chas and David share the surprising story of how surfing has helped get guns off the street, Filipe Toledo’s secretly crafted narrative of fear, why the WSL’s CEO vacancy accidentally reveals their true mission, and Drummer Dave joins us from the great beyond to sign off the year. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In an apple orchard, on an island thirty miles north of Seattle, eight years removed from his last surf is where I found Drew Kampion. Author of six books, countless surf articles, and perhaps the main person responsible for surfing’s mischievous, irreverent presentation, Kampion reflects on his early years at Surfer, analyzes current surf media, and tells about the first time he got John Severson high. Enjoy!
In today's show David and Scott assess the massive swell that's hitting their coastline in real time, then reflect and project on 2023 and 2024; best moment in surfing, best news event, best podcast moment, best surfing, predictions for 2024 and more. Enjoy and Happy New Year!
In today's show, the boys send a Christmas miracle to Baja, pro forma Tom Lochtefeld's latest endeavor, a disgraced YouTuber ventures back to the North Shore he defiled, Fast Eddie disappears amidst cancel culture controversy, and Chas preps for his greatest performance yet, The Nutcracker. Plus Barrel or Nah?!
Era defining filmmaker Kai Neville joins us to discuss why the visual style he is known for is not his own, how Bruce Irons is to blame for the best clip he’s ever missed, and how independent film helps foster the most creative and progressive expressions of surfing. Enjoy!
In today’s show Scott and David marvel at the frigid, world-class, mega surf that detonated on Jersey’s shores, reveal the new plans for the Teahupo’o tower, gossip about Carissa’s potential departure from the WSL, and look to competitive climbing to pontificate about how wave pools will influence professional competitive surfing. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
In today's episode Chas enters the Vlogosphere and makes his case for the death of the Pipe Masters while David stays sycophantic, Surfer Mag dives headlong into click-bait, PSCC sends a lusty siren call, a listener narrowly escapes death in Waco, and the boys explain why breaking a friend's board is never a faux-pas. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today's show David and Scott unpack the VANS Pipe Masters; the perfect 30, the historic flashpoint for XX chromosomed surfers, destiny fulfilled, and then they celebrate the most versatile, fun, and fairly priced wave pool opening a mere 2 hour drive from coastal Southern California. Plus Dukes, Kooks, and more! Enjoy!
Genre defining pro freesurfer of the 90s, Margo, joins us to discuss ushering pro surfing from cottage to corporate, humility gleaned while working as a baggage handler, how a passion for bird watching led to his greatest work, and what sparked the revival in his surf career at age 50. Enjoy!
In today’s show Chas and David celebrate Carissa Moore’s public appreciation of BeachGrit, uncover the hidden agenda behind Tahiti’s Teahupo’o Tower, question the WSL’s silence about their fallen #4 and reveal their attempt to silence Mason Ho, the finally unveil their plans to become faith healers. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
Surfer, writer, board builder, Christian Beamish joins to discuss surf adventuring through the hospices of the Navy, why the Simmons/Curren Keel might unlock new big wave paddle potential, lessons learned adrift on a self-built 27 foot sail boat, and why perspective is hard earned through life experience. Enjoy!
In today's episode David and Scott witness the Wave Of The Winter and ponder what the young bloke does with his life henceforth, they survey Joao's near-fatal wipeout, wince at the Olympic barge that damaged Teahupo'o's reef, and cringe at the latest episode of EAST. Plus Dukes, Kooks, and more! Enjoy!
In today’s show an old rivalry is inflamed as Chas vies for the role of surfing’s Anthony Bourdain, David advises the most petulant division of martial assets, the boys give tips to travel like royalty without riling the commoners, and advise for how imbibe grandly without kooking it at your holiday gathering. Enjoy!
After a year on the 35’ sailboat “Calypte”, Torren Martyn returns to discuss how his grandmother’s adventures 60 years ago led to this journey, the pitfalls and virtues of learning to sail while at sea, living with snakes onboard, and how the voyage was the perfect preparation for parenthood. Enjoy!
In today's show Scott and David survey opening day of the winter season in Hawai'i, the colossal waves ridden and the new territory of tube riding unlocked on 10' Guns, the potential corruption surrounding the Olympic tower at Teahupo'o, and celebrate the 74 year old who is still riding 40' waves. Enjoy!
Smart, passionate, sincere and with deep experience as a surfer lifestyle proponent, Matt George offers engaging insights. Let us begin.
In today's gratitude themed show, David and Chas reveal the savvy surfboard shaper who's pivoting to the beer biz, discuss Kelly's kicking the turtle moon sandal aside for his new zoophilic partnership, question the cop on a quad who nearly maimed the children at V-Land, rank the best smile in surfing, and advise for how to melt the hearts of entire family this Thanksgiving. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
Just a note, during Thanksgiving week here in the US, to express my deepest gratitude for giving me the opportunity to do this work. Happy Thanksgiving!
In today's episode Scott and David dissect the over glorification of shortboarding and the overwhelming lack of adaptability of shortboarders before diving into the Pipe Masters invite list, conceive of "Dude, Where's My Board?", survey the ripe talent pool of the has-been, and celebrate the wild life of Allan Weisbecker. Enjoy!
In today's show Chas and David discuss the great many break-ups in surfing this past week, RVCA splits with their entire team, JJF hints at a potential departure from the WSL (just as his brand sponsors the Pipe Pro), Keala excoriates the WSL's, and Saffa's Shaun Tomson and Ricky Basnett break ties in a very visceral and public fashion. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today's show David and Scott discuss the vast uncharted, untapped, unknown empty perfect surf around the globe and the series of latest films that have endeavored to discover them. They attempt to identify ingredients that make up the world's great surf cultures, yearn nostalgically for the one-board mentality of yesteryear, question the ethics surrounding the GOAT's big bet in Abu Dhabi, and mourn the loss of two SoCal surf icons. Enjoy!
After 40 years touring and drumming for one of the biggest punk bands on the planet, Smelly joins us to discuss his transition into surfboard shaping and how the intensity of youth can that ignite a life's journey, the camaraderie of his bandmates helped him kick heroin, showing kindness to one's self amplifies recovery, and why all of his success can be attributed to a single drum beat. Enjoy!
In today's show Chas and David teach you how to deftly dodge legal liability, reveal the WSL's gaming of Guinness and undermining of surfing's street cred, get inside info on the Bethany v. Rip Curl contract dissolution, celebrate the benefits of being burned, and discover the world's hidden truths on page 3 of Google's search results. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
Community activist Eddy Garcia joins us to discuss his efforts to re-house victims of Lahaina’s fires, how developers have already taken advantage of displaced families, the perils of disaster capitalism, the necessity to reduce reliance on tourism, and the inherent virtues of self-sufficiency. Enjoy!
In today's show Bethany Hamilton splits from Rip Curl after 24 years over over ideological differences and with 4 years left on the contract, the WSL's PR squad finds an extra 18 inches of water in order to cement a new Guinness record, Gravvy finally finds his way into our hardened hearts by finding a hard board, and Scott identifies a core distinction between locals depending on their cultural upbringing. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
In today's episode David and Chas advise on how to avoid getting ousted by the grumpy local, identify the precise amount of grump to serve as a catalyst for growth, mistakenly un-grumpy one local, celebrate the benevolence of Andy Irons, rank the lowest paying/highest power jobs, and get baited into a high-speed pursuit! Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today's show David and Scott survey how precarious global economics continue to threaten the surf industry and the opportunities for growth that exist in the void of big brand missteps; from big wave award shows, to little brands that could, to a revival of local California surf clubs and the burgeoning Freedom Force set to take on the World Tour. Plus Dukes, Kooks, and much more. Enjoy!
Adroit craftsmen Bill Stewart returns to discuss the elusive paradox of Gordon Clark, the stately humility of Phil Edwards, the effortless earnestness of Jimmy Buffett, and how they each bolstered and buoyed him through his successes and losses over the years. Part of two of two. Enjoy!
In today's episode Chas and David offer a lesson in tweaker economics, explain why you ought never attempt to fuse a family vacation and a surf trip, reveal earth shattering news about one of the NBA's all-time most famous players, isolate how to foster "it" in a surf star, and tease apart the hypocrisy of why, in 2023, sex sells but no one's allowed to acknowledge it. Plus Barrel or Nah?!
In today's show Scott and David identify the sole 10 surfers who have a shot at a Title in 2024, question why Pipe isn't the headline story in mainstream surf media, take health advice from a geriatric, celebrate surfing's best slogan ever, then Bass and Erin Brooks both get denied Canadian citizenship. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
Jovial raconteur Bill Stewart joins us to weave his tale from barefoot skiing in Kentucky, to fudge-making for Carnies in Michigan, to Shanghai'ing a teen to California in search of surf, to becoming one of surfing's preeminent board builders, along with the fortunes and friends earned and lost along the way. Enjoy this, the first of a two part series.
In today's show Chas and David explore the seedy underbelly of surfing's drug addled past; the dealers, the users, the fallout, alongside the risks and promise of stem-cells and opioids, all before weighing the costs of identifying as a "longboarder" and imploring you to support low-level hooliganism. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today's episode Scott and David celebrate the local come-ups from CA on to the world's stage, welcome the first 20'+ signs of the much anticipated El Niño winter, rally against the decimation of Teahupo'o's famed reef, reveal the first surfer to win a world title on a self-shaped board since MR, and identify the single fatal flaw in the current judging system. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
In today's show Chas and David, usually the givers of medical advice, chase Shane Dorian as he bushwhacks his way to the fountain of youth, they predict Italo's transition from World Champ to world-class TikTok influencer, celebrate JMD's fashion risks, advise how to give your partner Deep Vein Thrombosis on the beach, and a listener discovers a potential cure for COVID. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
Surfing's preeminent historian returns so that David can attempt to write Warshaw's EOS entry. Herein Warshaw recounts the first time being punched in the face, donning Edward Norton's wetsuit, analyzes which prejudice is unjustly credited to surf history, and explains how a recent life altering diagnosis changed his perspective on this relationship with surfing. Enjoy!
Intro Music: Moondog, Bird's Lament
Outro Music: Marvin Gaye, Inner City Blues
In today's show David and Chas rank the best and worst tradeshows to attend (from AVN to surf), celebrate Laird's transition from Dom to Sub, question the motives of Quiksilver's recent pandering to the core, quantify the number of surfers who actually watch pro surfing, attempt to identify the odor wafting in from Baja, and offer a solution to Sitzpinklin' females who've always wanted to stand. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
Honoree of this weekend's Icons of Foam Tribute, Bing Copeland started Bing Surfboards in 1959. After sharing his first wave with Greg Noll and under the tutelage of Dale Velzy, Bing became one of the largest board builders of the 60s. In today’s episode Bing discusses his origin story, the value of delegation, transitioning the Bing legacy, and the incident that caused him to quitting surfing. Enjoy! (Link to Episode 190 with Matt Calvani)
Intro Music: Bob Dylan, Mississippi
Segue Music: Bob Callahan, 747
Outro Music: Glen Campbell, Sweet Fantasy
In today's show as Scott gears up for The Boardroom Show, David does a deep dive into Bing Copeland's origin story and legacy and the boys discuss whether board building in California is economically sustainable, why their magic boards have always been off the used rack, and which ingredients of the Quiksilver Festival made the event so sweet and what does it indicate for contests to come. Enjoy!
In today's show Chas and David discuss Alana Blanchard's defense of her husband against Stab Mag's muckraking, CJ Hobgood chimes in with insights into JJF vs Gabe's Tahiti fallout, they outline the solution to build a profitable Tour, listeners revolt against Chas's Sitzpickling, and they explain how to mimic the trill of surfing next time you're in a grocery story. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
In today's show Scott and David attempt to tally the cost of "access journalism" and make a case for what should be surfing's biggest news story, they then attempt to dissect the economics surrounding pro surfers relationships with shapers, celebrate the memorial of Bob Simmons, and David details his recent wave pool soiree in the desert. Enjoy!
2x Icons of Foam winner Roger Hinds joins us again to discuss how moving out at age 14 cultivated the work ethic to yield 50 years of board building, the virtues of taking advice from people with less experience, the paradise and peril of Hawaii in the early 70s, and why you should be riding an 8' shortboard. Enjoy!
In today's show David and Scott share reflections on the most poignant surf documentary in recent time, assess the 2024 CT schedule and make predictions on how much longer the WSL can tank their product and profits while retaining elite level surfers, and they assess the real cost Stab Mag pays for their privileged access to WSL spokespersons. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
In today's show David and Chas discuss everything that was Finals Day and admit that you should probably listen to Kai Lenny and Kelly Slater's recap instead, they then campaign for #JusticeForCarissa, weep for Tyler, outline the dire omen for the WSL, and mark Finals Day as the nexus for an eventual dystopian surf future. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy!
Pro surfer, second generation board builder, Greenough acolyte and EPS advocate, Ellis Ericson joins us to discuss the inherent limitations of molded surfboard blanks, feeling foreign in his hometown of Byron, how distancing daily life from technology has propelled his greatest strides forward, and how to induce zen through the hum of a planer. Enjoy!
In today's episode Scott and David dissect Finals Day, the format, the title's clinched and lost, the unexpected come ups, the painstaking let downs, the inspirational comeback, the uninspired relinquishing of a crown, and the implications for 2024 and beyond. Plus Dukes and Kooks! Enjoy!
Josh Peterson is one of the eight shapers competing in the Icons of Foam Shape-off honoring Bing Copeland at the Boardroom Show this year. From Va. Beach to Portugal, it’s been quite a ride so far, and I say “so far” because there’s a lot more happening for Josh Peterson of Peterson Surf Craft. Humble, talented, focused. On this episode of The Boardroom Podcast …surfer/shaper Josh Peterson, let us begin.
Maui's Joshua Weisfeld shares the harrowing story of losing his home and factory while narrowly escaping the fires, gives insight into the rich board building community that existed in Lahaina, surveys the diaspora, and attempts to develop a blueprint for steps towards rebuilding. Enjoy.
New owner of Surfing World magazine, Sean Doherty discusses his acquisition, his latest book "Golden Daze", and why it's important for surf media to be helmed by passionate surfers and not by private equity controlled conglomerates. Enjoy!
Oregon based surf photographer Mark McInnis lost everything he owned last week as his house burned to the ground in the Holiday Farm Fire. Today he discusses the value of a complete reset, how a limitation can become a virtue, and the importance accepting help. Enjoy!
Simon Jones discusses the power of collective consciousness, how one surf soundtrack changed his life's trajectory, and why 3 stringers and 2 fins is all you'll ever need. Enjoy!
At long last Matt Warshaw bestows an Encyclopedia of Surfing podcast upon the world. The Breuer brothers (Swell Season) roll up Warshaw's Sunday Joint and take a deep inhale of surfings, past, present, and future. Welcome to episode one. Enjoy.
Lauren Hill is a mother, author, and ecofeminist. In today's show she explains how a commitment to curiosity has resulted in an unlikely surf career, an even less likely life as a farmer, and a cosmic premonition that inspired her to move across the world in a quest to stay centered. Enjoy!
Self proclaimed "#1 Surfer In The World", pro surfer antagonist, aspiring Centaur, and the greatest to ever surf Alabama, Sterling Spencer joins the podcast to discuss the paradoxical relationship between comedy and depression, why you shouldn't go vegan, and being kissed on the lips by Jeremy Flores. Enjoy!
Surfboard shaper, former pro surfer, writer, surf historian, Dave Parmenter discusses how “old” surfboard designs are more advanced than many modern designs, why he doesn’t read surf mags nor watch surf films, and why he’s spending most of his water time miles off the coast. Enjoy!
Dani Burt is an Adaptive World Surfing Champ, Doctor of Physical Therapy, and above knee amputee as a result of near death motorcycle accident. Today she shares her origin story, reveals what she experienced while in a 45 day coma, and how she leveraged anger and depression to grow and empower radical life change. Enjoy!
Convicted murderer, national surfing champ, and mastermind of America's biggest ever jewel heist, Jack Roland Murphy is the subject of today's show. Journalist and podcaster Nathan Scott spent 9 months with Murphy and his peers to investigate facts new details of this decades old case. We chat with Nathan to hear about his new podcast series and about the dramatic confrontation that ended his relationship with Murf the Surf. Enjoy!
Richard Kotch is a surf photographer and 50% of the dynamic surf guiding duo on the Maldivian island of Hudhuranfushi, along side his wife (and last week's podcast guest) Amy Kotch. Richard explains his early surf experiences that primed him for surf guiding, the challenges of island life, and how to continually improve your surfing into your 50s. Enjoy!
"She Surf" cover surfer Amy Kotch joins us to share how, at 30, she left So Cal suburbia behind in pursuit of hollow, warm surf and a simplified life focus. Kotch explains life on a remote atoll as a surf guide, the challenges and joys of raising a kid there, and the quickest way to shift your perspective, values, and worldview. Enjoy!
Board builder Malcolm Campbell discusses the Bonzer design, the role it’s played in surfing and the quirky dynamics that sometimes push and often impede board design evolution. The Bonzer is the first truly functional, high-performance three finned surfboard design, and the Campbell Brothers introduced it a full decade prior to the invention of the Thruster. We bring today's episode straight from the Malcolm’s kitchen in his home in Oxnard. Enjoy!
Wyatt Daily shares his discovery of previously unseen surf footage of Greenough, Yater, and dozens more who would spark a design revolution and indelibly change the trajectory of surfing, as documented in his latest film, "Spoons: A Santa Barbara Story". Enjoy!
Selema "Sal" Masekela and Ryan Harris join us for a discussion about how the surf industry needs to respond to Black Lives Matter and how it will foster a healthier, more robust industry, why they are both more optimistic about the future of America than ever, and they introduce 1Planet1People. Enjoy!
Waves 4 Water is aiming to solve the world water crisis and has already provided sustained solutions for 3.75 million people. Jon Rose discusses his transition from a self-focused life of professional surfing into a life of effective altruism and the challenges of running an international organization. Enjoy!
William Finnegan has been an important figure contributing to surfing for the past 30 years or so, mainly as a writer, but also as a discoverer and explorer. Author of the Pulitzer winning "Barbarian Days", he and David discuss his journey and navigating how surfing fits into relationships, work, and life. (This episode was original published on December 20, 2015).
San Diego board builder and Skip Frye apprentice Josh Hall joins us to pay homage to Kauai, discuss his recent elk hunt in New Mexico, survey the surfboard biz in the time of COVID, and reevaluate how to love and care for our parents as they age. Enjoy!
Billy Hamilton joins David to discuss the difficulties of raising Laird, discovering Nazare, the benefits of psychedelics, and how his relationship with John Milius ended with a punch and a transfer of one millions dollars. Enjoy!
Billy Hamilton joins David to discuss growing up in Laguna before the ocean was poisoned by detergents from civilization's expansion, his early travels in Kauai in the 60's, meeting Laird and his mother on the beach at Rocky Point, surfing Pipeline naked, and living (partying) with Bunker Spreckles when he inherited $100 million dollars. Part one of two. Enjoy!
Kauai waterman Terry Chung joins us to talk about his recent trip to foil Nazare with Laird, raising well-adjusted children on Kauai, his journey through board building, the evolution of the surf foil, and how to sustain big wave wipeouts at the age of 65. Enjoy!
Kauai Council Member and co-founder of Kamanu Composites Luke Evslin joins us to talk about the challenges of being a small composites manufacturer in Kauai, how he's addressing housing and climate change from City Hall, and how a near death experiences shifted his life's trajectory. Enjoy!
Professional MMA fighter, surfer, activist Dustin Barca discusses homelessness in Kauai, the environmental impact of genetically modified agriculture, political corruption, and how discipline has helped him find focus and purpose. Part two of two. Enjoy!
Professional MMA fighter, surfer, activist Dustin Barca discusses homelessness in Kauai, the environmental impact of genetically modified agriculture, political corruption, and how discipline has helped him find focus and purpose. Part one of two. Enjoy!
Mr. Sunset and co-founder of Quiksilver USA Jeff Hakman talks about dressing in drag to avoid Vietnam, earning and losing a small fortune, conquering a 30 year substance addiction, and positioning himself to surf into 100 years of age. Enjoy!
As part of our contribution to The Lockdown Surf Film Festival, David Scales interviews The Surfer's Journal Editor and film director Nathan Meyers about his film "Here & Now". The film is screening for 24 hours on LockdownSurfFilmFestival.com Enjoy!
Californian Mark Sausen made his way with one board, a Terry Martin shape, to Kauai in 1970. Over the next 50 years he'd marry into a native family, develop a craft for building some of the most acclaimed boards for the local waves, and come to share ownership of the most prized land in all of Hawai'i. This is his story. Enjoy.
The beauty and relative seclusion of Kauai has long made it favorite, albeit somewhat little disclosed, destination for surfers. It's recently become a prized location for tech billionaires and agricultural corporations. The convergence of these varied interests has led to rapid change and an erosion of traditional Hawaiian culture. Today we hear from Max Medeiros, Bronson Lovell, and Lance Ebert about building boards and adapting to life on the Garden Isle. Enjoy.
Twenty year ‘CT veteran, meditation teacher and envy of every single surfer since 1993 for his power prowess, Taylor Knox opens up about boneheadedness, the fallacy of regret, and why his power is based in stillness. Enjoy!
John Dahl is the founder/owner of Sticky Bumps and a pioneer of surf wax. Today he explains how he's been the beneficiary of serendipity, how he's leveraged incremental lessons into sustained returns and when it's the appropriate to fire or promote family members. Enjoy!
Board builder Ryan Harris runs the world's only zero waste surfboard factory. Today he shares his origin story, how designing shoes translates to shaping, the importance of starting at the bottom, and how he'll make more money from his trash than he will from selling surfboards. Enjoy!
In this new 6 part series surfboard shaper Donald Brink spends a week in the mountains with board builders and artists. Today he chats with Jeff McCallum about the fallacy of "sustainable" surfboards, the virtues of the twin-fin Egg, and the unimportance of legacy. Enjoy!
Surfboard shaper and youth mentor Akila Aipa is expanding on his family legacy by building solutions for our modern needs on principles honed by his father. Today he discusses how he's embraced catharsis through missteps and how Kelly's success on Akila's boards will alter the next decade of his business and life. Enjoy!
Pro surfer turned Hurley Hawaii team manager turned organic farmer Joel Centeio chats about the equitability of sponsoring surfers, the challenge of fostering drive while living in paradise, and confronting the internal dilemma of killing animals to feed your family. Enjoy!
Kauai retailer, Aloha Exchange co-founder Jamie Dillberg talks about the legacy of localism, starting Famous traction, recovering from failure, and the importance of community to modern retail.
Rochelle Ballard's commitment to physical and spiritual wellness was the guiding force behind her 15 year CT campaign where she claimed 8 event titles. Today she chats about drawing from that experience to share complete wellness with others while attempting to maintain her own balance between life and professional obligations. Enjoy!
Vitruvian disciple and board builder Dane Hantz joins us to chat about the endangered California surf industry, the psychological risks of a social media curated life, and navigating parenting while trying to run a business and still find time to surf. Enjoy!
Originally published February 28, 2017. This week’s guest is unflinching big-wave surfer, champion spear fisherman, and part time Hollywood stuntman Mark Healey.
Musician, host, producer, Sal Masekela talks about the power and treachery of growing through grief, the gift of plant-based medicine, and getting out of one's own way to find peak performance. Enjoy!
There is an unrivaled tragedy raging in Australia today. The 136 fires are burning so large that they are generating their own weather systems, have scorched millions of acres of land, killed 19 people, and millions of animals. Even when one contributes prayer and financial resource, it does little to quell the feeling of helplessness and heartbreak. Australia offers immeasurable wonder to the world and it's influence in surf culture is indelible.
As a tiny act of gratitude for their being and acknowledgement of their suffering I wanted to share this opening chapter of Bill Bryson's "In A Sunburned Country".
In our fourth installment with Metz he tell us about a cross country road trip with Edwards, Alter, and Brown and how he got the Hilton Hotel's family to finance Hobie's skateboard business. He also addresses inquiries about potential illegitimate children sired from his travels and much more! Enjoy!
Welcome back to Post-Script, a quick overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a review of the 2019 Billabong Pipe Masters.
In our third installment with Metz he leaves South Africa and travels through subsaharan Africa, shoots arrows with the Masaii, dodges bulls in Pamplona, goes backstage at the Olympics and then finally returns home to inspire his friend Bruce Brown. Enjoy!
After last week's introduction to Metz, today he tells us how he sold his family liquor license to Disneyland to fund his three year surf trip where he was jailed in Bombay, lived in a brothel in Panama, and discovered Cape St Francis. Enjoy!
Photos and stories from Dick Metz's three year global surf trip in 1958 inspired his friend Bruce Brown to chase The Endless Summer. Metz was the first employee at Clark Foam. He opened the ever surfboard shop and he co-founded The Surfing Heritage & Culture Center. Enjoy part one of our three part series with Mr. Dick Metz.
Donald Brink chats with Surfrider CEO Chad Nelson and surfboard shapers around the world who have built boards from lobster buoys, miso barrels, and 200 year old savaged barn wood to outline options for sustainable surfboard building.
Jamie Brisick joins us for a discussion about the first time he smoked pot, his foray into BDSM, the absurdity of giant logos, losing his home to a fire, and how his life would have been different if he "succeeded" in his pro surfing goals. Recorded live at The PHILOsurfer Convergence conference in June 2019.
Filmmaker Jack Coleman discusses his latest film, the value of making radical life changes, and why he's leaving his home of 20 years to vagabond around the world. Enjoy!
Era defining pioneer of the shortboard revolution, writer, World Champ; Nat Young discusses abandoning his animal aggression, reveals his favorite modern shapers, shares stories of Tom Blake & Miki Dora, and illuminates some of his greatest lessons learning as outlined in his latest book, “Church Of The Open Sky”.
Father, husband, surf historian, Matt Warshaw chats about how to nurse the bruising of online commenters, the virtues of quitting surfing, pays tributes to surf’s little known stories, and he outlines a grander EOS. Enjoy!
Welcome back to Post-Script, a quick overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a review of the off season and recap of the Meo Rip Curl Pro Portugal.
BeachGrit co-founder, writer, and general surf influencer through his many roles in media, Derek Rielly confesses to accidental overachievement, reflects on his departure from Stab, shares the perils of partnering with Chas Smith, and discusses his latest book "Gulpilil". Enjoy!
In an apple orchard on an island thirty miles north of Seattle and eight years removed from his last surf is where I found Drew Kampion. Author of six books, countless surf articles, and perhaps the main person responsible for surfing’s mischievous, irreverent presentation; Kampion reflects on his early years at Surfer, analyzes current surf media, and tells about the first time he got John Severson high. Enjoy!
Industrious surfboard shaper from Western Australia, Sunova Surfboard’s Bert Burger joins us to extol the virtues of alternative materials, detail his role in co-founding Firewire Surfboards, and explain the benefits and misconceptions about building surfboards in Thailand. Enjoy!
Today’s guest is Sal Masekela. Sal is a professional broadcaster, television host, musician & television producer. Correspondent for Vice Sports and the voice of the Red Bull Signature Series, in today’s episode we discuss Sal’s unique origin story and then Sal weighs-in on the failures of the WSL broadcasters, Slater’s potentially final year on tour. This episode originally aired on March 15, 2017.
Punk-flavored surfer, skateboarder, entrepreneur, and activist, from Newport, Rhode Island, often described as "the Godfather of New England surfing", literal godfather to Ian Walsh, defender of Ruggles, and friend to all, Sid Abbruzzi is our illustrious guest for today's show. Abbruzzi discusses his origin story, the state of retail, the value of time away from surfing, and importance of community. Enjoy!
Ed Wright and Brian Fredrickson shares stories from 60 years of business, mentoring some of the industry’s most iconic board builders, and how to continue a legacy after closing a retail business.
Channel bottom guru, shaper and laminator Dale Wilson chats with David to discuss his early introduction to Allen Byrne and the life altering epiphany he had on a channel bottom surfboard. He illuminates it’s virtues, it’s limitations, and explains why all surfers should be riding one. Enjoy the show!
Josh Hansen is a second generation heir to Hansen Surfboards. Founded by Don Hansen in 1961, Josh has helped usher Hansen from a local surf retailer into a 20,000 square footprint housing 55 employees. In part four of our Temples of Stoke series, Hansen discusses his transition to eComm, the perils of the consignment model, working with family, and how he's positioning to incorporate the next generation of Hansen's. Enjoy!
Welcome back to Post-Script, a quick overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a review of the off season and recap of the Tahiti Pro presented by Hurley.
Robert Howson is the owner of the Harbour Surfboards retail. Beginning as a team rider for Rich Harbour in 1980, Howson has helped transition Harbour from a surfboard manufacturing facility into a thriving retail destination. In part three of our Temples of Stoke series, Howson discusses the importance of honoring suppliers, working with millennials, and how to retain saltiness and protect a legacy while incorporating modern business practices. Enjoy!
Today’s show is a conversation between Jamie Brisick and Pulitzer Prize winning author William Finnegan. The two chat about Brisick’s latest book, “The Dazzling Blue”, the process of writing, the struggle of maintaining a spot in the pecking order of your local line-up, and the virtue of taking time away from surfing.
Bing Copeland started Bing Surfboards in 1959. After sharing his first wave with Greg Noll and under the tutelage of Dale Velzy, Bing became one of the largest board builders of the 60s. In today’s episode Bing discusses his origin story, the value of delegation, transitioning the Bing legacy, and the incident that caused him to quitting surfing. This is part 2 of 5 of our limited run series #TemplesOfStoke presented by @SurfingHeritage Enjoy!
TK Brimer, owner of the iconic Newport Beach surf shop The Froghouse, joins us to talk about the importance of surf retail’s importance to surf culture. He discusses juggling debt, managing millennial employees, ignoring eComm, and helping birth surf brands (like Volcom). This is part 1 of 5 of our limited run series #TemplesOfStoke presented by @SurfingHeritage Enjoy!
Welcome back to Post-Script, a quick overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a review of the off season and recap of the Corona Open JBay.
A conversation with filmmaker Justin Purser, CJ Hobgood, and Damien Hobgood about their new documentary that traces the Hobgood's early life, professional surf careers, development of their respective families, and ultimately, their journey through identity. Purser shares his background in music video and outlines the limitations of making a surf film in 2019. This episode was recorded at the Florida Surf Film Festival. Enjoy!
Jason Stevenson sits near the top of the heap of shortboard surfboard manufactures worldwide. Parko’s ridden JS nearly his entire career, Julian and Sally are aiming for a title this year on JS sleds. Jason shares his origin story, his struggles and the factors that led to his success, and he predicts the next great Gold Coast hope. Enjoy!
Chris Stone is taking time off from traveling as Jordy Smith’s coach to fulfill this patriotic opportunity to head coach the US Olympic team. In today’s episode Stone outlines surfing in the Olympics, shares concerns, and survey’s how this growth potential might alter the core of surfing.
Welcome back to Post-Script, a quick overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a review of the off season and recap of the Oi Rio Pro.
In today’s episode David chats with Andrew Kidman and Ellis Ericson about their new film “On The Edge Of A Dream”. The film documents five years of experimentation and development of the Edge design. The conversation begins 30 years ago, when George Greenough began sharing stories with Kidman about the greatest wave he had ridden and the design detail that made it possible. After 25 years of coaxing, Kidman partnered with test pilot and fellow shaper Ericson to build a quiver of boards, share the feedback with Greenough and refine the quiver to isolate the virtue of the Edge. David chats with the two about the film, the book, the design, and the current state of surf media. Enjoy!
Follow @OnTheEdgeOfADream_ @AndrewKidman and @EllisEricson
Heavy Water is Michael Oblowitz’s new film centered around Nathan Fletcher’s most significant traumas and his most meaningful accomplishments. In today’s episode Oblowitz details the long and storied history of drugs with the surf industry, the film he made about it, and why that film has never been released. Fletcher discusses why he’s trusted his story to Oblowitz, his personal dealings with PTSD after the loss of Sion Milosky and why he’s retired from big wave surfing. Enjoy!
Former personal photographer to Sean “Puffy” Combs, Justin Jay has spent the past 10 years traveling from NYC to the North Shore in December to document the denizens who congregate for the Pipe Masters. Snippets of his work has been published each season, but the majority has been reserved for an archive piece, a book, HI1K, which is set for release in the Fall of 2019. In today’s episode Justin outlines his foray from celebrity photography into surfing, the precarious state of photography as a career, and how selfie culture is altering our philosophy on privacy. Enjoy!
Welcome back to Post-Script, a quick overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a review of the off season and recap of the Maragaret River Pro.
Innovative photographer and filmmaker Tony Roberts packed his boards and camera gear and drove from Santa Cruz, California to Santa Cruz, Costa Rica 30 years ago to pursue a surf centered life. In today’s show he talks about adapting his career due to surf media’s instability, the exponential growth of surf tourism in Costa Rica, raising a daughter, and how physical and mental acuity is allowing him to do his best surfing at age 54.
Follow @TonyRobertsPhoto and @RealSurfTrips and @TRSurfing
The enigmatic MC returns to discuss the aftermath from his first podcast appearance, Sunny Garcia, the concept of “sustainability” in surfboards, the 2019 Bells Beach Pro, and how confronting vulnerability is allowing him dispel past trauma. It’s a a doozy of an episode. Strap in.
Iconic Queensland shaper Dick Van Straalen shares his origin story and details how living with dyslexia has informed his surfing and surfboard building. He discusses helpful treatment strategies and explains how his acute mindset has empowered him to pioneer material usage and design theory for the past 60 years.
Follow @Dick.VanStraalen and https://www.dickvanstraalen.com/
Today’s show is presented by Slowtide.co , use promo code “podcast” to support the show and save 10%
Welcome back to Post Script, a quick overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a review of the off season and recap of the Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach.
Supported by Finatic.com, use promo code “podcast” to support this show and get your first month free.
David visits the Gold Coast of Australia to chat with Scott Fenton of Kinaroad to learn about their shaping robot and their plans to fortify domestic board building, increase wages for laminators, eliminate inefficiencies in the traditional board building model, and improve replicability for higher volume board brands. Enjoy!
Visit Kinaroad.com
After a three year walkabout in his mid twenties, Quiet Flight’s lead shaper Bruce Ragan returned to shaping with a revitalized passion that has fueled his craft for the past thirty years. In today’s episode he discusses the perils that face teen pro-am surfers, competing with oversized retailers in Cocoa Beach, how real estate development is ruining local waves, and the unexpected spoils of imperfection. Enjoy!
Follow @BRRaganQF
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NYC painter Richard Phillips found surfing later in life. He restructured his life to accommodate his newfound obsession and in the last two decades surfing has inextricably informed his work and his relationships. In today’s show Phillips discusses working with Andy Warhol, making a surf film with Lindsey Lohan, surfing Pipeline for the first time, and why the ocean is the ultimately editor. Enjoy!
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Welcome back to Post Script, a quick overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a review of the off season and recap of the Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast.
Supported by Finatic.com, use promo code “podcast” to support this show and get your first month free.
In today’s episode Darren Handley of DHD Surfboards details his first encounters with Stephanie Gilmore and Mick Fanning, he explains the challenges of scaling his business internationally and why he’s chosen to outsource some of his manufacturing. He explains how a new shaping robot has improved his business and his 5 years plan to in introduce a motorized DHD into the Snapper Rocks line up. Enjoy!
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Today’s show is presented by Slowtide.co , use promo code “podcast” to support the show and save 10%
At the age of 22, Brett Connellan was surfing his local beach when he suffered the intense impact from the jaws of a Great White shark. Through the attack, Brett lost the majority of his left thigh and sustained serious damage to his hand, but he also gained a profoundly empowering perspective that has allowed Brett to conquer recovery, surf again, and inspire others to grow through trauma. We hope you enjoy Brett and his compelling story of survival.
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Australian surf writer Nick Carroll inquires about all things asymmetry with South African board builder Donald Brink. Nick’s been quietly surveying the broad acceptance of asymmetrical board design in the US and he quizzes Donald on design theory, Australia’s late acceptance, design limitations, and whether or not symmetrical boards have ever even existed. Enjoy!
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Florida board builder Ricky Carroll illuminates the pioneers of Brevard County whom paved his path while sharing his origin story, his tribulations as a mechanic, and how licensing other board labels has allowed RC Surfboards to thrive. Enjoy!
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Australian writer and surf media mainstay Sean Doherty has become the unintentional tip of the spear in a public fight against a giant oil company. In today’s show he details the #FightForTheBight and misinformation that all Australian’s need to know. We then discuss his outlook on printed surf media and what adjustments will be required for print to thrive into the future.
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English professor and surfboard shaper Charles Mencel talks about rescuing drunken tourists from pounding surf at the Jersey shore, crafting literary-minded college students, managing time for maximum efficiency, and value of building boards for local community. Enjoy!
Follow @Mencel_Surfboards and purchase through BarewireSurfShop.com
Josh Kerr launched on to the world scene with two Air Show World Championships before the age of 20. After suffering a severe leg break he reset and found a home on the World Tour. During those 7 years, Josh's family traveled with him and he developed a passion for entrepreneurship. Upon retiring from competition in 2017, Josh has been able to gracefully transition into various roles; father to burgeoning surf star, business owner, and commissioner of the WSL's new Airborne Tour. In today's show Josh elucidates how to navigate life change while keeping a strong focus on family unit. Enjoy!
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In the new film, “Thank You, Mother”, Ishka Folkwell showcases Torren Martyn’s surfing on Simon Jones boards to craft an abstract narrative which highlighting that life design and board design are at their fullest expression when simplicity is employed. Torren and Ishka chat with David about the film, collaborating with Albe Falzon, and how to connect with people in this increasingly chaotic world.
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In today’s episode we chat with Grain Surfboards co-founder Mike LaVecchia. Based in York, Maine, Grain builders hollow, framed, locally sourced wood surfboards. Mike’s background in boat building and his reverence for historic surf craft positioned him uniquely to push hollow framed board construction into a new design era. He chats about the value of wood as a board building material, working with world class shapers to develop Grain models, and their open-patent business model. Enjoy!
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Recorded at Surf Expo 2019, David Lee Scales and Chas Smith discuss new opportunities for brands to communicate their messaging through podcasting and how they utilize the Surf Splendor podcast network to access a broader audience, tell richer stories, and actively engage their fans. Topics covered include; podcasting 101, the anti-commercial, the value of intimacy, and a new style of loyalty.
Special thanks to Surf Expo and the Florida Surf Film Festival for hosting the seminar.
Founder of one of surfing’s most famous social media profiles BoardPorn, Ron Shine discusses his start as an anonymous surfboard hoarder, the responsibility that comes with influence, his anti-advertising model, and he shares his thoughts on the imported surfboard debate. Also, author of Ice Cream Headaches, Ed Thompson joins us. Enjoy the show!
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San Diego band of surfers “Switchfoot” has sold millions of albums and won a Grammy over the past 20 years. I chatted with them on the eve of the release of their 11th album to discuss Gabriel Medina’s Pipe Master’s domination, prioritizing swell with work and family life, shaping surfboards, and how to honor one’s moral code while subject to the vice synonymous with Rock n’ Roll. Enjoy!
Follow @Switchfoot and @TimForeman and @ChadButler
In today’s episode Derek Hynd recounts his professional history and offers lessons for how surfing can learn past mistakes. He tells the vivid details of losing his eye (and permanent eyesight) while surfing heat. He spills the sordid details of his little black book (all 4 of them). He explains how he invented “The Search” and describes why he’s evolved beyond fins and into friction free surfing. Enjoy the show.
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In today’s episode Maurice Cole contemplates recent tragedy and candidly laments compromising his integrity to chase business goals. He shares the story of a business failure and how the associated stress led to his body developing cancer. He explains why every surf brand has failed after going public and how he’s personally lost millions of dollars. He analyzes the aftermath of these traumas and explains why reinvention is most fertile in the wake of disaster. We hope that you enjoy.
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Filmmaker Michael Zimbalist talks about the process and journey to make Momentum Generation. From 9 hour interviews with Kelly Slater, which characters and storylines got cut, Michael Zimbalist reveals gossip he unearthed within the hundreds of hours of archived Taylor Steele footage, and why HBO was interested in helping share a surf story. This interview was co-hosted by Marcus Sanders. Enjoy!
The Outer Banks are barrier islands off the coast of the US state of North Carolina, separating the Atlantic Ocean from the mainland. They are a 200 mile long sand bar that are constantly changing with storms and general tides that shift the sand. It’s home to some of the best waves on the East Coast and surfboard shaper Mike Rowe of Hooked Surfboards. In today’s show Mike discusses the unique circumstance of life on the OBX, raising a family, the undefinable value of riding locally made boards designed for local surf, and building boards for an ever constricting market segment. Enjoy!
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Surfboard shaper Donald Brink has been a recurring guest on this show. Donny sustained a significant injury while surfing recently and it’s inspired him reexamine life’s pieces. In today’s show, I chat with Donny about the setback, how it’s propelling him forward, and he takes us along to South Africa to track down the person who gave him his first surfboard. Amidst the reunion, they discuss the life long implications of that one kind deed. Enjoy!
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Today’s episode was recorded in the home of Jamie Brisick, which has since been vanquished by the Malibu fires. We’re replaying this episode in homage to Jamie’s home and anyone who lost their home in the California fires. Consider supporting the rebuilding efforts by donating to the Wildfire Relief Fund. Thank you and enjoy today’s show.
Jamie Brisick is a former pro surfer turned writer. He was awarded the Fulbright Scholarship in 2008. His stories have appeared in The New York Times, The Guardian, The Surfer’s Journal. He’s written 3 books, his most recent “Becoming Westerly” tells the true story of Australian surfing champion Peter Drouyn transitioning to Westerly Windina. Jamie is also making a documentary about that story entitled “Westerly” which is due for release shortly. In this conversation Jamie explains why adults are so disappointing, why writing an Instagram caption is akin to riding a step-up, and how his writing has benefited from some of his life’s greatest tragedies. Enjoy the show!
JamieBrisick.com and follow @JamieBrisick
Jeff Timpone has been building surfboards for 50 years. Not only is he one of the world’s most experienced shapers, he’s also on the cutting edge of sustainable surfboard manufacturing. In today’s show Jeff discusses his moral conflict about leaving California to surf Hawaii during the Vietnam draft. He reflects on early experiences with iconic surfers and shapers and how his work with the early strapped crew helped pioneer Jaws and define Maui’s surf identity. Enjoy!
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Matt Meola is among the top aerialist in the world. He surfs Jaws. He’s a commercial fisherman and recreational bow hunter. He went to high-school with Willie Nelson’s kids. He’s one of the most interesting and talented surfers in the world, in his prime, and in today’s conversation we chat about the challenges he faces as a professional surfer, where to display content, how to connect with an audience, and the upcoming WSL Air Show tour. Enjoy!
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