Fash-ON Fash-OFF: Recent Episodes
i-D
An indispensable podcast of fashion, style and ideas from i-D. All the latest trends, chit-chat and surprises galore. Every Thursday, direct from London. Don't be scared of it because it's cool.
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“40 minutes? You want to maybe reduce a lifetime of struggle, and art, and sex and music and fashion into 40 minutes?!” An indisputable force of nature, trying to bottle the essence of Honey Dijon in a single podcast episode is almost a moot task – but for the final episode of i-Dentity, we tried our very best.
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His work is the unofficial preserve of seemingly every female superstar – his graphic, curvilinear jumpsuits in particular a staple in the tour wardrobes of everyone from Dua Lipa to Megan Thee Stallion, Yseult to Beyoncé. In this episode, Casey discusses his journey to the heights of the industry, dancing as catharsis, and the logic behind his boundary-pushing approach to casting.
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Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran – better known as the fearless artistic duo Fecal Matter – join us in this conversation following Earth Day to discuss their story behind their uncompromising style, values, and the power of self-expression.
“Even if there is all this animosity… the identity is so strong. It is so ingrained in what I do as a daily practice of self love and of expression that nothing can get in my way.” Hear this from Hannah and more in today's episode.
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In this episode, Diplo discusses how growing up across America’s South shaped his eclectic perspective, his thoughts on cultural appropriation in music, and how he believes the internet has amplified the reach and potential of subculture.
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This week, we dig deep into queercore, the contemporary value of shock and the line between arthouse and porn with modern cinema’s queer punk provocateur, Bruce LaBruce.
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She is a party producer and community organiser who has been responsible for some of the most memorable nights – and looks, for that matter – that the Big Apple has ever seen. This week, we speak to New York’s quasi-official queen of clubs, Susanne Bartsch, about a life lived at the heart of the party, and her new book, Bartschland.
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In Episode 4 of the i-Dentity podcast, we’re joined by fashion designer and subculture connoisseur Martine Rose, known around the world for her distinctly London vision.
Martine discusses her extraordinary career, unconventional upbringing in South London, and why subculture and nightlife will always be a focus of her work. “The feeling that I get on the dance floor hasn't changed. It's completely electrifying. I still feel like a 14-year-old standing outside of Strawberry Sundae. It genuinely feels like that.”
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This week, we’re back with none other than James ‘Jeanette’ Main, the former Boombox host and East London nightlife legend. In the mid-2000s, he became the so-called ‘door girl’ for Richard Mortimer’s Sunday evening club night Boombox, known by the moniker of ‘Jeanette’. One of a handful of nights in the East End, it sparked a renaissance in queer London nightlife and marked a shift in the city’s creative centre, playing host to fashion designers, musicians, artists, art students — and indeed the occasional icon — who all had to pass Jeanette to get to the dancefloor.
As he puts it: “Subculture is doing what you can’t help not do, doing what is burning inside you, and finding others who have the same burning desire as you.”
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This week, legendary British artist Cosey Fanni Tutti joins us to discuss her lifelong commitment to counterculture, and five decades of breaking down boundaries through her subversive multidisciplinary art practice.
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i-Dentity podcast is back, and this series we’re dedicating each episode to an artist we feel truly personifies subculture. Kicking it off is seminal photographer and documenter, and long-time contributor to i-D, Liz Johnson Artur.
Listen to the first episode of our new series, where Liz discusses her aversion to being described as a ‘street’ or ‘club’ photographer, her ever-expanding Black Balloon Archive, and why legendary club-night PDA will always be one of her favourite nights in London history.
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We are closing out series two with the defining QTPOC subculture, ballroom.
'Serve’, ‘read’, or ‘throwing shade’ – whether first heard from the lips of queens on RuPaul’s Drag Race, or from sassy teens on TikTok, these terms have become part of English slang. But if you were to ask the lion’s share of people using them where they originally came from, we’d wager that most wouldn’t be able to tell you.
Its roots extend back as far as the late 1960s when, in response to racism they experienced in the white-dominated drag pageant scene, Black trans queens Crystal and Asia LaBeija made the bold decision to found a by-us-for-us space. Initially incubated in community halls and nightclubs across Harlem and Downtown Manhattan, ballroom has gone on to inform contemporary culture across the globe – not just nightlife, but also music, fashion, television and language itself.
But conversations around appropriation and compensation have reached a flashpoint, with members of the scene calling for acknowledgement, fairer treatment and a deeper understanding of ballroom’s history.
In this week’s episode of i-Dentity, we join i-D’s senior fashion features editor Mahoro Seward, as they speak with Alex Mugler, a legendary voguer and choreographer, on the infrastructure of the ballroom community; Venus X delves into the story behind, GHE20G0TH1K, the club night she co-founded, while also unpacking the the exploitative nature of ballroom’s relationship with the culture mainstream; MikeQ, one of the eminent producers of vogue beats and globally esteemed DJ, explores the development of ballroom music and his experiences at the early GHE20G0TH1K’s parties; and Ricky Tucker, a New York-based writer, academic and ballroom superfan gives us the backstory on ballroom’s history and enduring capacity for liberation.
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Shaved heads, wrap-around Oakleys, neon tracksuits, Alpha Industries bombers and Nike trainers. This is the story of how hardcore changed contemporary fashion for decades to come.
In this episode, Mahoro Seward, i-D’s Senior Fashion Features Editor, speaks to Ari Versluis, the photographer behind Exactitudes, the emblematic image series that first typified the gabber look and brought it to the world, and a former gabber himself. Lis Rutten, an Amsterdam-based casting director and former model, discusses for the gabber look has influenced fashion’s masculine ideal, while Henrike Naumann, a German artist who has explored gabber culture extensively in their work, unpacks its enduring legacy, both in the arts and on the ground.
Host: Mahoro Seward
Scripting: Mahoro Seward, Amelia Phillips
Research: Eleanor Gribbin
Research Assistance: Alexia Marmara
Art Direction: Calum Glenday and Aleksandra Talacha
Producer: Amelia Phillips
Audio Producer: Robin Leeburn
Production: Podmasters
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What is alté, you ask? Well, let’s start by saying this: it’s probably easier to describe it in terms of what it isn’t than what it is. In the years since the West African subcultural movement has come to global prominence – say, over the past five years or so – it’s often been erroneously tagged as a music genre, pioneered by the likes of Cruel Santino, Odunsi The Engine, Lady Donli and Grammy Award winner Tems. The thing is, though, there are as many interpretations of the alté sound as there are artists associated with it, with the influences you’ll pick up on in tracks by any of the above spanning R&B, hip-hop, synthpop, house… and then some. Indeed, alté is so much more than a sound, it’s a fully-fledged lifestyle – a way of being that’s expressed as much through style and art as through music, and that has come to define what Nigerian youth culture looks, sounds and feels like today. As Ashley Okoli says, it's "literally just vibes."
Increasingly, alté artists are ascending to global stages – see Tems' collaboration with Rihanna, performed at the 95th Academy Awards no less. Alté is no longer a traditional subculture, but a globally influential style and identity that everyone wants a piece of. In this episode, Mahoro Seward, i-D’s Senior Fashion Features Editor, speaks to Odunsi the Engine, a music producer who’s been at the forefront of the alté scene since its earliest days; Ashley Okoli, a stylist and creative director who’s collaborated with the likes of Mowalola and Victoria’s Secret, unpacks the central importance of fashion in the alté lifestyle, while Teezee, a musician, record label head and founder of rhizomatic cultural platform Native, discusses the ethos at alté’s heart and how it’s going global.
Host: Mahoro Seward
Scripting: Mahoro Seward, Amelia Phillips
Research: Niloufar Haidari
Research Assistance: Alexia Marmara
Art Direction: Calum Glenday and Aleksandra Talacha
Producer: Amelia Phillips
Audio Producer: Robin Leeburn
Production: Podmasters
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Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo: these are some of the biggest names in fashion today. Even for the novice fashionista, the very mention of their names conjures a vision of pushing fashion to its absolute limits. Their highly conceptual, avant-garde approach to design, combining the histories of Eastern and Western dress, emerged within Japan’s postwar counterculture. Almost half a century on from their first collections, their work has infiltrated all aspects of the fashion industry – from shop design, to publishing, exhibition-making and, of course, fashion design itself.
This week Osman Ahmed speaks to esteemed fashion historian (and Director and Curator of The Fashion Institute of Technology) Valerie Steele, about the moment that Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo and Yohjo Yamamoto merged Japanese dress with Western fashion, and the ideas that would influence their early work; Fashion consultant and CEO of PR Consulting Paris Nathalie Ours, who started working for Yohji Yamamoto in the late 1980s, remembers what it was like seeing his work for the first time; and Tiffany Godoy, Head of Editorial Content at Vogue Japan takes us through these designers’ countercultural origins and their contributions to the industry at large.
Host: Osman Ahmed
Scripting: Osman Ahmed, Amelia Phillips
Research: Alexia Marmara
Art Direction: Calum Glenday and Aleksandra Talacha
Producer: Amelia Phillips
Audio Producer: Robin Leeburn
Production: Podmasters
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Skinny jeans, holey cardigans and eyes sticky with kohl that many vowed never to tout again after the financial crash of 2008 have all made it back to the forefront of fashion through the guise of its next iteration, ‘indie sleaze’. But do you really know Indie? Cast your mind back to the early 2000s — perhaps you’re too young to remember it the first time, which is why in this week’s episode of the second series of our i-Dentity podcast, we’re doing it for you. Join us as we delve back into the early days of Indie at the cusp of the new millennium, the death of Britpop, the free-wheelin’ hedonism of gig venues in student campus cities and their charity shop-clad crowds, and the inevitable transition of indie from an in-the-know sect of music and nightlife into a cultural phenomenon that birthed generation of new media, fashion, lifestyle, pop music and the dreaded ‘Hipster’ apocalypse.
In this episode, Osman Ahmed, Fashion Features Director of i-D, speaks to Alex Kapranos, the lead singer of Franz Ferdinand, one of the biggest bands of the noughties, and a veteran of the indie scene. Karley Sciortino, writer and filmmaker who landed in London’s indie scene in the early 2000s discusses what life in a London squat was really like — especially for young women at the time – and Erol Alkan, the man behind the legendary Monday night party Trash, at which Amy Winehouse, Kings of Leon and Peaches were regulars, discusses the rise and fall of indie in the noughties.
Host: Osman Ahmed
Scripting: Osman Ahmed, Amelia Phillips
Research: Niloufar Haidari, Bertie Brandes
Research Assistance: Alexia Marmara
Art Direction: Calum Glenday and Aleksandra Talacha
Producer: Amelia Phillips
Audio Producer: Robin Leeburn
Production: Podmasters
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i-Dentity is back. Welcome to Series Two.
In Series One, we covered the genesis of hip-hop style. But what about the bling? From the streets of hip-hop’s major cities to the lyrics and covers of its greatest albums, we trace the story of the genre’s love affair with jewellery. But Cuban chains and diamond grills didn’t just add to the look of hip-hop, its movers and shakers actively crafted the look and feel of jewels we see today. As we’ve seen in hip-hop fashion, the jewellery worn by rappers past and present is oft-criticised for its OTT opulence, but, like the story of the music itself, hip-hop’s drip tells its own tale of identity, social mobility and representation, filtered through its diamonds, platinum and gold.
Osman Ahmed, Fashion Features Director of i-D speaks to Vikki Tobak, author of Ice Cold. A Hip-Hop Jewelry History, about hip-hop jewellery’s roots and cultural influence, as well as its rise to the top from the streets of America’s hip-hop hotbeds. Lyle Lindgren, filmmaker and co-author of the book Mouth Full of Golds recounts the origins of the ultimate hip-hop statement piece – grills – while Gabby Pinhasov and his son Elan, grill-craftsmen to the likes of Pharrell, Marc Jacobs, A$AP Rocky and Kim Kardashian, take us back to the early 90s in New York City, where Gabby first began his trade.
Host: Osman Ahmed
Scripting: Osman Ahmed, Eilidh Duffy, Amelia Phillips
Research: Niloufar Haidari
Research Assistance: Alexia Marmara
Art Direction: Calum Glenday and Aleksandra Talacha
Producer: Amelia Phillips
Audio Producer: Robin Leeburn
Production: Podmasters
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Once a hedonist’s hidden secret, Ibiza found itself in the spotlight in the late 80s when its unique Balearic sounds intersected with British club and drug culture in a moment of pure euphoria. This week, we’re exploring the roots of acid house and the ever-evolving nature of this small island with fashion consultant Lulu Kennedy, Manumission founder Dawn Hindle, artistic director of Pacha, Francisco Ferrer and artist Jamie Holman.
Grande Dame of punk, visionary fashion designer, lifelong activist, Vivienne Westwood is one of the few people for whom the word icon barely scratches the surface. In this week's very special episode, we hear from Vivienne's son Joe Corré, her granddaughter Cora Corré, historian Valerie Steele – and even Vivienne herself – on rebellion, responsibility and staying true to yourself.
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On the 9th of November 1989 the Berlin wall, which had split the German city in two for almost three long decades, was pulled down. Within a matter of hours the area that had once been the outer edges of both East and West Berlin was now the centre of a united city, complete with a set of abandoned buildings ready to be taken over by Berlin’s youth. A new sound was incubated in these spaces, influenced by techno records imported from Detroit, ushering in a new type of club culture within the city. And so Berlin’s now-legendary techno scene was born.
In this episode Osman Ahmed and Mahoro Seward speak to techno pioneer Marcel Dettmann on the nascent scene in the 1990s, and the duo behind GmbH, Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Işık, about how the times have changed, as well as Berlin’s infamous look. Photographer Spyros Rennt shares why he moved to the city while DJs LSDXOXO and SPFDJ explain how the scene is changing today.
Aries, Stüssy, Palace and Supreme. These are just a few of the biggest brands in fashion right now and they all have their roots in the countercultural sport of skateboarding. Skating and the culture around it has never been bigger, officially hitting the mainstream when it became an Olympic sport at the 2021 Tokyo Games, but how has it kept its edge, the authenticity which is so important to its place within the cultural lexicon of today?
In this episode, Osman Ahmed, Fashion Features Director at i-D speaks to Tyshawn Jones, pro-skater and two-time Thrasher skateboarder of the year as well known for his death-defying feats on the board as his lucrative modelling career. Sofia Prantera, founder of Aries, remembers the early days of the London skate scene and making it up as they went along and William Strobeck, legendary skate filmmaker reflects on the sport’s roots. Cultural commentator Naomi Accardi explains the history of the sport and the turning point in the early 2010s. Dede Lovelace, star of ‘Skate Kitchen’ and HBO series ‘Betty’ shares her views on the importance of community in skateboarding, while Guillaume ‘Gee’ Schmidt, co-founder of Patta, reflects on the importance of authenticity and community in streetwear.
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‘Killer’, ‘Hard’ and ‘Tougher than the rest’. These were all phrases adopted by legendary stylist Ray Petri who brought together a small group of friends under the moniker Buffalo and subsequently changed the way we think of styling today. It was a look, an attitude, a crew marked by their signature navy blue MA-1 bomber jackets with the word ‘BUFFALO’ printed on the back. Perhaps not a subculture per se, but the style that evolved from the Buffalo movement was inherently subcultural, taken from the streets and translated into pioneering images that were transmitted to the rest of the world through the pages of ‘80s style bibles i-D, The Face and Arena. Sportswear paired with high fashion, men wearing skirts and the quintessential ‘80s look of a bomber with a pair of Levi’s 501s were all spearheaded by the creative community around Buffalo which included the likes of Mark Lebon, Jamie Morgan, Judy Blame, Nick and Barry Kamen, Mitzi Lorenz, Neneh Cherry and a young Naomi Campbell. When Petri passed away from AIDS in 1989, he had not enjoyed much commercial success but left behind a legacy that would change the look of fashion forever.
In this episode we hear from Mark Lebon and Jamie Morgan who were there from the beginning. They discuss what London was like, how this group came to be and what Buffalo really was. i-D’s Editor in Chief Alastair McKimm explains the importance of Buffalo to his own work as a stylist and creative director. Kasia Maciejowska, editor and author of the book The House of Beauty and Culture discusses the importance of styling and how Ray Petri changed how we interact with the fashion image while writer and researcher Eilidh Duffy explains how the Buffalo look permeated fashion and why it remains influential today.
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A group of football fans living in Liverpool in the late 1970s were destined to change men’s fashion forever. They were called the scallies and with their close Mancunian relatives the perries, they would eventually spread their sartorial standards all over the UK. These groups of football fans with a penchant for expensive European sportswear would come to be known collectively as ‘the casuals’. Back in the 1980s you might have thought that the casuals were simply a group of tracksuit-loving, thieving hooligans who travelled around the UK and Europe going to games, getting into scraps and robbing sportswear boutiques blind. But that’s not the whole story. The casuals shaped late-20th century menswear and changed men’s fashion forever. From the scallies and the perries; through to the Britpop phenomenon, then Metrosexuality, the term ‘terrace fashion’ can cover a lot of different separate cultures that existed between the late 1970s and 2000s, but two things bind them all together: football and fashion.
In this episode Osman Ahmed, Fashion Features Director at i-D speaks to Ollie Evans, vintage fashion dealer who runs Too Hot Ltd, about terrace culture’s working class stylistic origins. Turner Prize winning artist Mark Leckey describes his own relationship to football and the culture it fostered when the ‘casuals’ were at their peak. Editor-in-chief of CircleZeroEight Elgar Johnson explains how the metrosexual came to be, and Felicia Pennant of SEASON Zine describes how football’s relationship with fashion and gender is moving into a new, more intersectional era.
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In the 1990s one area of Tokyo saw the rise of a unique style movement that would go on to change street fashion forever. Harajuku, a small neighbourhood between the busy shopping mecca of Shibuya and neon-hued nightlife of Shinjuku became the epicentre of a series of truly fashion-led subcultures that were transmitted to the rest of the world through the street style bible FRUiTS. From urahara to lolita, wamono to decora, teenagers from all over Japan would come to show off their latest genre-bending looks. With trends appearing in a flash and disappearing just as quickly, this thriving area became the most exciting place to be in Tokyo in the late 1990s and early 2000s. At the time, these style subcultures were a rebellion against the upright, corporate mentality of Japan. Little did these innovators know that their jaw-dropping approach to fashion would still be influencing and inspiring the global fashion industry over two decades on.
In this episode, Osman Ahmed, Fashion Features Director at i-D talks to Yuniya Kawamura, author of ‘Fashioning Japanese Subcultures’ and Professor of Sociology at FIT, about what makes a Japanese subculture different from one we might find in the West. Josephine Rout, Japan Curator at the V&A explains how this area of Tokyo came to be one of the most innovative style incubators in the world. Vogue Japan’s Tiffany Godoy recounts her first-hand experience of Harajuku when she moved to Japan in the late 1990s and the innovations in fashion she witnessed there, while Yoon Ahn describes the diversity of styles she came into contact with when she moved to Tokyo in 2003. Shoichi Aoki, editor of legendary street style magazine FRUiTS, explains his motivation behind capturing the looks of Harajuku, and Shahan Assadourian, founder of @archiving.stacks tells us why Harajuku subcultures are still so relevant today.
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In the dark streets of 1970s Soho, there once lay a club called The Blitz. It was within these walls every Tuesday night that the glitterati of London’s post-punk scene would gather to pose to a soundtrack of Bowie, Kraftwerk and the occasional Edith Piaf song. To get in, you didn’t just have to look good, but the emphasis was on being totally original in the way that you were dressed. Edwardian sci-fi pirates and bondage nuns, with hair done at the nearby salon Antenna, were not unheard of at The Blitz. These ‘Peacock Punks’ were first dubbed ‘the cult with no name’, and then the ‘Blitz Kids’, but one label would eventually stick - the New Romantics.
Born from the beginning of Thatcher’s miserable reign, the New Romantics were the ultimate escapists. Most were artists, musicians and fashion designers - others were professional posers. There are stories of spending art school grants not on paint or canvases, but Victorian bodices from the costumier Berman’s and Nathan’s, or rolls of fabric for Tuesday night’s next look. Before Berghain’s Sven, there was Steve Strange on the door of The Blitz: ‘Honey, would you let you in?’, was the line no-one wanted to hear. Galliano was there, as was Boy George, Derek Jarman, Cerith Wyn Evans and even David Bowie. It would go on to shape London’s cultural scene for decades to come.
In this episode Osman Ahmed speaks to milliner Stephen Jones, Blitz’s in-house DJ Rusty Egan, legendary Blitz door girl and New Romantic icon Princess Julia and photographer Derek Ridgers about what it was like to be there, and what it means now. Drag queen of RuPaul’s Drag Race fame Bimini Bon Boulash explains the lasting influence of the New Romantics on identity and queerness, and London-based designer Charles Jeffrey emphasises the legacy of New Romantic aesthetics on contemporary pop culture.
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Designer hoodies, oversized logos, luxury tracksuits and the cult of the sneakerhead. It’s likely none of these would exist without the influence of hip hop. In fact, the fashion industry exists in its current form because of pioneering black stylists, artists and designers who paved the way for the likes of Kanye West and the late Virgil Abloh to become the most important designers of the early 2020s.
But hip hop’s relationship with fashion is a complex one. For 50 years, designers like the Harlem couturier Dapper Dan, and Misa Hylton, stylist for Lil’ Kim and Mary J. Blige who defined the look for hip hop’s women in the late ‘90s and early 2000s, have had their work co-opted by the fashion industry with little or no credit at all. In recent years, these artists have received that credit where it is long overdue, and here Osman Ahmed unveils the story of this rocky relationship, as well as hip hop’s rise from a small subculture in The Bronx in uptown New York into an international symbol of pop culture.
This week, we hear from Harlem couturier Dapper Dan himself on crafting the look of hip hop half a century ago, as well as Aisha Durham, author of Home Girls Make Some Noise: Hip Hop Feminism Anthology, who discusses the relationship hip hop has with mainstream culture, and the scholar Dr. Marquese McFerguson emphasises hip hop’s importance in communicating black experience in America. DJ Semtex foregrounds hip hop music as an art form, Cultural Curator Kish Kash retells the history of hip hop, as well as his own affinity with it as an Indian kid growing up in the UK, and Chantelle Fiddy highlights the hip hop artists-turned designers who changed fashion forever.
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The e-girl is one of the most pervasive internet subcultures we have today. But the e-girl didn’t appear out of nowhere - her origins lie in aesthetic styles which emerged during third wave feminism in the US. From the Riot Grrrls, to skater style, through to indie rock, soft grunge and emo, the e-girl is an aesthetic amalgamation of subcultures from the relatively recent past. In particular, the 1990s streetwear brand x-girl, founded by Sonic Youth frontwoman Kim Gordon and stylist Daisy von Furth, served as a blueprint for the rehashing and remixing of subcultural styles, the wearing of too-tight baby tees and general girl-centrism found in the culture of the e-girl.
In 1993, after a conversation with Beastie Boy and founder of streetwear brand X-Large Mike D, Kim Gordon teamed up with X-Large store employee and stylist Daisy von Furth to create a brand that girls like them - cool, streetwise New Yorkers - wanted to wear. The silhouettes were inspired by the mods, Godard Girls and motifs from men’s streetwear, fusing their feminine staples, like mini skirts and a-line dresses, with a no lycra ethos and perfectly-fitting jeans, all with a maximum price of $60. This, as the legend goes, was the beginning of streetwear made by girls, for girls.
In this episode Osman Ahmed speaks to cultural critic Biz Sherbert about the codes and conventions of the e-girl. Bleach London founder Alex Brownsell and Director of Special Projects at Marc Jacobs Ava Nirui discuss the influence of tumblr. Daisy von Furth and her sister, noise musician of Pussy Galore fame Julie Cafritz, explain the cultural moment x-girl emerged in, and Erin Magee, designer of MadeMe, emphasises the importance of x-girl for teenage girls both in the ‘90s through to the present day.
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Even if it doesn’t always get the credit it deserves, the influence of Dancehall can be felt throughout the entirety of mainstream pop culture today. The sound percolates through Rihanna, Justin Bieber, Drake, and even the Yorkshire-born Ed Sheeran’s Shape of You. Female musicians are dressing like ‘90s Dancehall Queens - Beyonce’s Nusi Quero look on the cover of RENAISSANCE wouldn’t have looked out of place on a ‘90s Dancehall Queen, and neither would most of the fits in Cardi B and Megan Thee Stallion’s video for WAP.
What many might not know, though, is that Dancehall, despite its oft-dirty lyrics and overt sexuality, is a culture born of resistance. As artist and historian Fiona Compton explains in this episode, it’s “poor people’s music”. Emerging from the 1970s soundsystem parties of Kingston, Jamaica, its lyrics are often just as much social and political commentary as they are rude.
In this episode, i-D’s Osman Ahmed talks to Sean Paul about his musical career, the influence of Reggae, what’s happening now and what we can expect for Dancehall in the future. Fiona Compton contextualises the genesis of Dancehall culture and its role in female empowerment within Jamaica. The designer Bianca Saunders, who grew up in South London’s Caribbean community, explains the importance of fashion to Dancehall parties, and Matteo Bellentani, Head of Product and Design at British shoemaker Clarks, tells the story of Dancehall’s most iconic shoe: a pair of Clarks. Finally, Shenseea tells us about the changing sound of Dancehall and how she’s bringing it into new territories.
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Hailing from London’s East End, grime is a genre that exploded into the cultural mainframe in 2014 with Skepta and JME’s That’s Not Me. Speaking to both the cultural moment - with the rise of social media apps like Instagram beginning to distort reality - as well as Skepta’s experience in the music industry, it marked grime’s first spotlight as a genre of international significance. But it was well over a decade earlier that grime had emerged from East London, broadcast through the DIY transmitters stuck on top of buildings by pirate radio stations like Rinse FM and Deja Vu.
The sound was like nothing heard before, with beats made on game consoles, and artists spitting lines so fast over the top it’s a miracle they didn’t run out of breath. A reaction to the earlier London-centric genres of jungle and garage, grime was like their little brother, deeply raw, always fresh and full of energy, with a tracksuit and Air Force Ones to boot.
In the first episode of this new series, i-D’s Osman Ahmed speaks to music journalist Chantelle Fiddy about the cultural significance of Grime as a genre, alongside its sartorial style. Saul Milton of Chase and Status remembers his first interactions with jungle and grime. D Double E recounts the early days of grime and the community formed around it, and Semtex reflects on the success of so many of its artists in pop music in the late 2000s. Dan Hancox, author of Inner City Pressure: The Story of Grime recounts the rise and fall, and then the unexpected rise of grime once again.
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In this special episode of Fash-on, Fash-off, we speak with London designer Bethany Williams and Sapna Brooks, Buying Director Gap EU, about how we tackle the quagmire of sustainability in fashion. Hosted by Bojana Kozarevic, Fashion Editor at i-D.
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In this one-off special episode of i-D podcast Fash-On Fash-OFF we discuss the highs and lows of trying to break into a creative industry, how to get noticed by big brands or platforms, and the importance of sticking to your vision. We're joined by visual artist Jasmine Lasode, who won Nike’s On Air competition to design an Air Max with her London summer of love inspired design, fashion designer Priya Ahluwalia, who won the 2019 H&M design award, and Robyn Lynch, a menswear designer who recently joined the Fashion East talent incubator.
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For the last episode of our current series, we talk all things Paris Fashion Week. We hear about the shows – the who, the what, the where, the wow. And we discuss the week’s most biggest moments, including the first Chanel collection since the death of Karl Lagerfeld two weeks ago. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse hosts.
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We return to our regular service with a roundup of everything you need to know from Milan Fashion Week. We hear from i-D Fashion Features Editor Steve Salter, who’s already moved on to Paris, ready to do the whole thing again. And we listen to an interview Steve did with Marine Serre – the French designer behind one of fashion’s most exciting new labels. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse hosts.
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We discuss everything from Monday’s shows. We touch on JW Anderson -- a designer who debuted a collection of craft and volume. And we chat though Christopher Kane, where i-D Fashion Features Editor Steve Salter was backstage to talk fetishes with the man himself. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse hosts.
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We discuss everything from Sunday’s shows. We take in what was the schedule’s biggest day – featuring new collections from fashion big guns Vivienne Westwood and Burberry. And we touch on some of the names set to be fashion big guns of the future – Gareth Wrighton, Yuhan Wang and Charlotte Knowles of Fashion East. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse hosts.
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We’re broadcasting live again from London Fashion Week. We take a look at the second day’s shows, which saw Molly Goddard and Simone Rocha present their latest collections. And we hear from photographer Nick Knight on his short film for Maison Margiela’s Reality Inverse presentation at London’s Serpentine Gallery. Today’s discussion is helmed by i-D Fashion Features Editor Steve Salter, with Deputy Editor Felix Petty and Junior Fashion Editor Bojana Kozarevic in support.
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For the second episode of our new series, we broadcast live from London Fashion Week. We dissect the first day’s shows, and hear from the very mega Asai, Symonds Pearmain and Matty Bovan. And we find out what else was top of the pops for our discerning fashion critics i-D Deputy Editor Felix Petty, i-D Fashion Editor Max Clark and i-D Junior Fashion Editor Bojana Kozarevic. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse hosts.
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For our first episode of this series, we talk all things New York Fashion Week. We hear from our US Editorial Director Jack Sunnucks on the latest trends, collections and chit chat from the shows. And we introduce our first look at London Fashion Week – one that will see us broadcasting an episode a day live from the runway.
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Starting this Friday morning, we’ll be dropping an episode a day, recorded live from London Fashion Week.
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For our last show of the year, we look back at some of the biggest fashion moments of 2018. We revisit some highlights from the last 12 months of chit-chat. We round up a year that saw Virgil at Vuitton, Kim at Dior and dinky sunglasses on Instagram. And we figure out what it all means in a year in which fashion, often, meant everything but the clothes. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse hosts.
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In a special live podcast, recorded at Google Pixel 3’s Curiosity Rooms, five of the UK’s most inventive designers – Claire Barrow, Eden Loweth and Tom Barratt of Art School, and James Theseus Buck and Luke Brooks of Rottingdean Bazaar – join i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse for a unique recording of Fash-ON Fash-OFF. Discussing how they use everyday objects and surroundings as the inspiration for their work, they explore how extraordinary things are happening all around us -- even if we don’t always see them.
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We talk all things scumbro. We discuss the rise of the trend – one that has seen Justin Bieber, Jonah Hill and Pete Davidson heralded as style icons for dressing like teenage slackers. We figure out what it says about the world today and where it fits in the wider embrace of irony within fashion. And we consider whether the bubble has already burst, with the news that Justin Bieber has shaved his head (!). i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse is joined by i-D Deputy Editor Felix Petty and i-D Senior Editor Clem De Pressigny.
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In October, we joined forces with London’s iconic V&A for a special photography edition of their Friday Lates and as part of the celebrations, i-D Fashion Features Editor Steve Salter was joined by one of the most exciting image makers working today, south London-born-and-based photographer Campbell Addy. Over the course of an hour long conversation, the pair discussed Campbell’s career and his work on Nii Journal, a biannual arts and culture publication. They talked Campbell’s role within the new start-up generation, those bright young things who have jumped fashion’s impenetrable walls to question what creativity looks like in 2018. And they took questions from the audience, as we learnt more about one of the most authentic voices in fashion now.
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This week, we’re talking i-D, straight up! We discuss the birth of the straight up photography style, one that uses head-to-toe portraits to capture people in both real and imaginary situations. We hear from Steve Johnston, the photographer whose images of punks on the King’s Road became the catalyst for street style photography as we know it. And we learn how Steve’s original straight ups went on to form the basis of a little known magazine called i-D, a hand-stapled fanzine founded by Terry Jones in 1980.
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As a new wave of students enrol and apply to fashion college, we team up with 1 Granary – a magazine and website run by the under and postgrads of London’s Central Saint Martins – to find out what makes a good fashion student. We take advice on completing your portfolio and getting an internship. And we gain a better understanding of how to make it in one of the toughest industries to crack, from the students who know it best. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse hosts.
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We’re joined by iconic photographer and director Mario Sorrenti. We discuss his new book, Kate, a collection of portraits of a young Kate Moss. We hear how the images caught the eye of Calvin Klein, becoming the reference for the famous Obsession perfume campaign in 1993. And we learn more about Mario’s work as he discusses both his inspirations and his career as a photographer to date. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse hosts.
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We talk all things Paris. We discuss our favourite fashion moments of the week. We hear from MACHINE-A founder and buying director Stavros Karelis on his takeaways from the season. And we look back on the last month to give our thoughts on spring summer 19 as a whole. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse is joined by i-D Fashion Features Editor Steve Salter and i-D Junior Fashion Editor Bojana Kozarevic.
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We talk all things Milan. We discuss who provided the headline-grabbing moments. We hear from our man on the ground, i-D Fashion Features Editor Steve Salter. And we get all the chit-chat on the latest trends from spring/summer 19. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse is joined by i-D Deputy Editor Felix Petty and i-D Junior Fashion Editor Bojana Kozarevic.
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Youth, energy, ideas; this London Fashion Week had it all. The Big Fashion Moment™ came this time via Riccardo Tisci and Burberry, but we still had the continuing rise of Matty Bovan, the expansive multicultural universe of Asai, and, of course, ten years of a certain Victoria Beckham to celebrate. Fash-ON Fash-OFF was there through it all, and this episode we bring you all the trends, surprises and fashion related chit-chat you need to feel like you were too. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse is joined by i-D Fashion Features Editor Steve Salter and i-D Junior Fashion Editor Bojana Kozarevic.
We talk all things New York fashion week. We give our opinion the shows – the who, the what, the where, the wow. And with many of the biggest designers choosing to show in Paris, we discuss where the future of New York lies. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse is joined by i-D Fashion Features Editor Steve Salter and i-D Editorial Director, US Jack Sunnucks.
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We first spotted British-Ghanaian photographer Campbell Addy when he was still a student at Central Saint Martins. A few short years later and he’s shooting his first i-D cover, snapping the enigmatic face of model of the moment Adut Akech for our Balenciaga cover story. Not only is Campbell one of London’s rising stars, he’s also the publisher of Nii Journal and the founder of Nii Agency, a culture magazine and modelling agency respectively, and he’s one of fashion’s nicest guys! With i-D’s new Earthwise issue hitting the stands, i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse meets Campbell and gets his advice on how to make it as a photographer.
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Nail It is the fierce new beauty brand founded by trans activist and author Charlie Craggs, where every nail decal starts a conversation around a trans issue. Her first fight is trans visibility and she’s using it to petition Unicode (the people who decide which emojis appear on our keyboard) over the lack of a transgender flag emoji – the most requested for two years running. Until the community gets its flag they’re hijacking the lobster, and today Charlie tells i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse all about it.
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The gender binary is being shaken up! As new generations increasingly view gender and sexuality as unfixed, we meet model and activist Munroe Bergdorf to unravel why the future of fashion is non-binary.
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With toe shoes on the runway, we discuss whether footwear's latest felony is a step too far. We try to figure out whether ‘ugly as cool’ is still news in 2018. And we question whether we’re witnessing the rise of the next big footwear trend, or the thing to finally push ‘ugly’ design into the realm of flat-out parody. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse is joined by i-D Deputy Editor Felix Petty and Rebel Royale, creator of ugly shoe Instagram account @CrimesAgainstShoemanity.
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This week we hand the reigns over to South London broadcaster and friend of i-D Zooey Gleaves. Zooey’s going to be investigating how the fashion industry has changed and how a new generation of models are championing ideas of representation. He’s going to be discussing what the emergence of new bodies in fashion can provoke, and whether casting choices can be inclusive as well as tokenistic. And he’s going to be hearing from three models working today -- Josephine Jones, Jordan Charles and Al Ly, asking them about their careers so far and their experiences of working in an industry accustomed to, as he puts it, “cookie cutter ideals of beauty”.
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This week, we discuss how the recent men’s and couture shows redefined the idea of luxury. We ask what’s changed and who’s leading the charge. We hear from fashion writer Osman Ahmed on his thoughts from couture. And we focus in on what John Galliano is doing with Maison Margiela’s “Art-Is-Anal” project – that’s his pronunciation not ours. Today, i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse is joined by i-D Deputy Editor Felix Petty, i-D Fashion Editor Max Clark and i-D Fashion Features Editor Steve Salter.
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In this special episode, i-D Fashion Director Alastair McKimm chats to model Paloma Elsesser – the Pat McGrath muse and Fenty Beauty ambassador who graced the cover of i-D’s Radical Issue earlier this year. Together they discuss Paloma’s career so far, as well as their thoughts and feelings on the state of the industry today.
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As a new exhibition, Print! Tearing It Up, opens its doors at London’s Somerset House, we explore the history and impact of the British independent magazine scene. We chart the evolution of print publications. And we celebrate the current crop of innovative independent magazines out there today. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse is joined by Somerset House Senior Curator Claire Catterall, Mushpit magazine’s Bertie Brandes and Sharan Dhaliwal of Burnt Roti.
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As Virgil prepares to present his debut collection as artistic director of Louis Vuitton men’s, we hear from some of the 39-year-old designer’s closest friends and collaborators. We speak to his old college dormmate, restauranter Gabriel Stulman. We hear from Oana Stanescu, the architect behind the designer’s OFF-White stores. And we chat to Benji B, the British DJ and producer in charge of the debut show’s soundtrack. If that wasn’t enough, we’re also joined by the one and only Naomi Campbell – the iconic model and friend of the designer, who discusses what Virgil’s appointment means for luxury fashion and the wider industry as a whole. Hosted by i-D Arts and Culture Editor, Matthew Whitehouse.
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For the first episode of series 2, we’re celebrating Alexander McQueen. We’re joined by the directors of a new documentary on the late designer, Ian Bonhôte and Peter Ettedgui. And we’re charting his rise from working-class boy from the east end to one of the most iconic artists of the century – before his shocking and premature death by suicide in 2010. Fash-On Fash-OFF is hosted by i-D Arts and Culture Editor, Matthew Whitehouse.
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We never said we'd be gone for good, did we?
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Dubbed "the Super Bowl of fashion," the Met Gala is a night when the world’s biggest celebrities, designers and models come together in some of the most OTT looks imaginable. In this – the final episode of series 1 and our last until June – we’re we're discussing what it is and who gets invited. We’re scrutinising the ecumenical matter of this year’s dress code – Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination. And we’re revisiting some of the best and, shall we say, more challenging looks from Galas gone by. This week, i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse is joined by i-D Digital Director Hanna Hanra and i-D Junior Fashion Editor Bojana Kozarevic.
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As American Crime Story concludes, we’re joined by Darren Criss – the former Glee actor behind the role of Gianni Versace's murderer Andrew Cunanan. We discuss his preparation for the part – what he knew about the case and what he was surprised learn. And we find out more about the ascent and descent of a killer who, crucially, could have taken a very different path. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse presents.
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Yellow is everywhere. In this week’s episode we’re taking a deep dive into the year’s biggest colour trend – Gen Z Yellow. We’re going to figure out what it is and why we should all apparently care about it. We’ll be hearing from Art Hoe Collective – a New York based movement often credited as originators of the craze. And we’ll be debating where this leaves millennial pink – the once ubiquitous tone left cold and shamed in a forgotten corner of Instagram. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse is joined by i-D Deputy Editor Felix Petty, i-D Features Editor Tish Weinstock and i-D Contributing Editor Douglas Greenwood.
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Pimple positivity is the new trend.
This week we'll be discussing the Justin Bieber Insta story that highlighted the movement -- the one in which he declared “pimples are cool”. We’ll be hearing from Peter DeVito, a 20 year old photographer who, for the last year or so, has been sharing his unretouched portraits of people with acne. And we’ll be figuring out where this all fits within wider conversations about – and perceptions of – bodies within the fashion and beauty industries.
i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse is joined by i-D Features Editor Tish Weinstock.
In this week’s episode of Fash-ON Fash-OFF, we’re talking all things Vetements. We’ll be discussing the article that made the brand bluer than Walmart Yodel Boy. We’ll be attempting to figure out whether rumours of its death have been greatly exaggerated. And we’ll discussing what’s next for the label in this cut throat business that we call fashion. This week, i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse is joined by Fashion Features Editor Steve Salter, i-D Junior Fashion Editor Bojana Kozarevic and i-D Contributing Editor Douglas Greenwood.
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We’re talking all things film. We’ll be revisiting The Wachowskis 1999 classic The Matrix and seeing if we can discern its influence beyond last week’s discussion of tiny sunglasses. We’ll be discussing the probable impact of Call Me By Your Name on your summer wardrobe – a film that i-D has written about approximately 60,000 times since its release. And we’ll be hearing from costume designer Ruth Carter on her afrofuturist vision for recent Marvel movie Black Panther. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse is joined by i-D Junior Fashion Editor Bojana Kozarevic and i-D Contributing Editor Douglas Greenwood.
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This week we’re taking a deep dive into some of the year’s biggest fashion trends. We’re going to figure out what the deal is with everyone wearing small sunglasses. We’ll have a go at deconstructing fashion’s love affair with the ugly trainer. And we’re going to get our heads around a fashion season in which the Dior saddle bag came back (again) and plastic bags became the latest must-have item. i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse is joined by i-D Features Editor Tish Weinstock and i-D Contributing Editor Douglas Greenwood.
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Over the past four episodes we’ve taken an inside look at fashion week: New York, London, Milan and Paris. We’ve discussed the shows we’re obsessed with and we’ve got the proverbial lowdown from our guests as we asked the question – how did we get here? This week we’re going to hear from a few of our previous visitants. We’re going to muse on the last month of fashion – the who, the what, the where, the wow of autumn/winter 18. And we’re going to try and surmise what the impact will be on the rest of the year. Whether we’re going to all start carrying around our own Gucci-style severed heads – things like that.
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We’re talking all things Paris Fashion Week. We're going to cogitate on the week’s best fashions – the who, the what, the where, the wow. We’ll hear from creative director Demna Gvasalia backstage at Balenciaga’s autumn/winter 18 show. And we're going to take a deep dive into that collection as we discuss where the designer has taken the house since he gained control of it from Alexander Wang in 2015. This episode, i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse is joined by Bojana Kozarevic from Paris.
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In this episode of Fash-On Fash-OFF we’re talking Milan Fashion Week. We’re ruminating on the week’s best fashions, taking a deep dive into the latest Versace show and talking through episode one of American Crime Story Season 2: The Assassination of Gianni Versace, as we attempt to answer the question – how did we get here? i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse is joined by Bojana Kozarevic and Douglas Greenwood, while i-D Fashion Features Editor Steve Salter reports from the ground.
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i-D's Matthew Whitehouse takes a deep dive into Christopher Bailey’s final show as Chief Creative Officer of Burberry. We hear from Features Editor Steve Salter as he attempts to make sense of the brand’s re-embrace of it’s iconic check. And we’re joined by Digital Director Hanna Hanra, Junior Fashion Editor Bojana Kozarevic and Contributing Editor Douglas Greenwood as we cobble together our summations on the who, the what, the where, the wow of LFW.
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What happened at New York Fashion Week 2018? Who wore what and what does it mean? i-D's Matthew Whitehouse is joined by Bojana Kozarevic, Max Clark and Steve Salter. Plus Jack Sunnucks reports from the Calvin Klein show in New York.
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FASH-ON FASH-OFF is a new weekly podcast looking at the week in fashion, produced by i-D. We'll be discussing the shows we’re obsessed with and getting the inside story from people who know, as we ask – how did we get here?
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