The Wine Conversation: Recent Episodes
The Wine Conversation
Created for wine-lovers, this magazine-style podsite explores the fascinating world of wine, full of amazing people and places. Listen in and be part of the wine conversation.
Optimism is a rare commodity in the wine world today. Listen in to hear why Adrian Bridge of the Fladgate Partnership is optimistic, and what his belief has created in Porto and the Douro valley. Listen in to hear a fascinating interview on how belief helped create a vibrant tourist industry and after 333 years of Taylor’s port, the company is still innovating. Plus, why he believes you can compete on brands but not climate. In partnership with The Fladgate Partnership.
Find out more at: wine-conversation.com
Twenty years ago, three branches of the Rothschild family decided to create a brand new Champagne House. Why did they do it, how did they do it? Listen in to hear Philippe Sereys de Rothschild talk to Sarah Kemp about the creation of Champagne Barons de Rothschild, the challenges they faced as outsiders from Bordeaux and what the difference is between running a First Growth Bordeaux and a Champagne House. Also joining Sarah is Guillaume Leté, the Cellar Master, who discusses the work in the vineyards and cellar, all in the pursuit of elegance, balance and quality.
Find out more at: wine-conversation.com
Listen in to hear Jasper Morris MW take a deep dive into the wines of Beaune in our latest 10-Minute Masterclass. In this episode, he explores the Premier Crus (there are no Grand Crus), discusses the taste of the reds and whites, reveals the Premier Crus to look out for. He describes Beaune as “the wine lovers’ centre of the universe”, reveals his favourite restaurants and the best places to visit when you are there. Unmissable.
Find out more at: wine-conversation.com
Listen in to Omnibus for this month’s wine news and views and it is fast moving news this month as the roller-coaster tariffs cause chaos in the wine industry;John Stimpfig reports on their effect. The Bordeaux En Primeur campaign is under way and we look at the prices being offered, who is selling, and who isn’t. Big company news from Constellation, Moet Hennessy, and Majestic plus the world’s oldest surviving wine which was harvested at the time of Christ.
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Mike Ratcliffe, one of South Africa’s most dynamic producers, talks to John Stimpfig for our series “Great Wine Lives” He discusses growing up at the family’s Warwick Estate where his mother was known as “South Africa’s First Lady of Wine” and how he co-founded Vilafonté with Zelma Long and Phil Freese when he was relatively young. “They took a chance on me” he tells John. Listen in to hear his remarkable story and his quest to make a great red blend, a South African Grand Cru, and why he thinks South Africa needs more premium producers.
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The verdict is in! Listen in to our final podcast on En Primeur Bordeaux 2024, where after three weeks of tasting Jane Anson delivers her views on the vintage. Discover how it compares to other vintages, and find out her all-important recommendations on whether to buy or not. Also, don’t miss out on her 15% off offer to new subscribers (open until the end of May) where you can read her detailed tasting notes on over 750 wines. Special code EP152025.
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“A challenging year” – total agreement from two of Bordeaux’s most experienced directors, Frédéric Faye of Château Figeac and Alexander Van Beek of Château Giscours. Difficult flowering, rain in September, there was a lot to cope with. They talk to Sarah Kemp about how they approached the 2024 vintage, and why terroir and team work were the keys to success.
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Listen in for Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp’s first impressions of the Bordeaux 2024 vintage after tasting (Jane has already tasted 500 wines, and Sarah over 250). Both agree this is not a vintage to buy blind, and there is much to discuss, as it is a vintage where generalisations are out of the window. Though only 2/3rds of the way through the mammoth tasting, Jane picks out some good value successes and Sarah names a few of the vintage’s stand-out wines. Jane’s report will be released on the Thursday after Easter but for an early view, tune in now.
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Justin Gibbs, co-founder of Liv-ex, talks to Sarah Kemp about the Bordeaux market and discusses the issues facing En Primeur, and why the pricing of the 2024 campaign is a crucial moment for the Bordelais. Listen in to hear his views and what he thinks needs to happen for Bordeaux En Primeur magic to return.
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On the eve of the 2024 Bordeaux En Primeur campaign, Sarah Kemp talks to David Thomas of Bordeaux Index, the man responsible for selling millions of pounds of Bordeaux En Primeur worldwide. He discusses who the Bordeaux buyer today is, how and why En Primeur sales have declined dramatically over the last fourteen years. Listen in to the man who really knows what Bordeaux lovers think, and what he believes the châteaux need to do to make the 2024 campaign a success.
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In our first En Primeur Bordeaux 2024 podcast Jane Anson talks to Sarah Kemp about the weather conditions that forged the 2024 vintage in Bordeaux. It was a challenging vintage for the producers and Jane discusses which soils she expects will cope best, why it is important to look at the weather conditions and yields before tasting and reveals why she thinks there may be a nice surprise for consumers.
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“Elbows up” in Canada as the Canadian wine industry reacts to the US tariffs. Sarah Kemp talks to Don Ziraldo, leading Canadian vintner who co-founded Inniskillin, and helped establish the Vintners Quality Alliance. He reports on how the tariffs have propelled the creation of VQA Canada, and how it should be in effect by summer. Listen in to the man who says , “We’re not normally this aggressive as Canadians, but this has really riled us up.”
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Listen in to our latest Omnibus for all the news and views from the wine world. Elin McCoy reports on Trump’s tariffs, and the negative effect they are having on the industry, while John Stimpfig discusses the exciting new developments on combating smoke taint in grapes. Plus John and Sarah Kemp argue over the launch of Grange La Chapelle. John sees it as a welcome spotlight on Syrah/Shiraz while Sarah questions the environmental impact of flying grapes to Australia, and that’s before she gets to the price! Join us for an hour of strong views and today’s wine news.
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*by John Stimpfig*
In March, Biondi-Santi’s Technical Director Federico Radi came to London to present this legendary estate’s latest releases, including an older vintage Riserva from the estate’s library or ‘La Storica’ collection. John Stimpfig was lucky enough to be invited along to taste the stellar line up of wines.
Wine Notes:- Biondi-Santi Rosso di Montalcino 2022 A challenging warm, dry year that yielded a small crop. Fortunately, there was some rain in August which revived the grapes and helped with the final ripening process as the harvest began at the end of the month and finished early in September. The wine was aged in large Slavonian oak barrels for 12 months and was bottled in mid 2024. This is soft, and supple with primary cherry, cassis and plum notes. The acidity is juicy and the tannins are light and feathery on this youthful, vivacious and highly approachable wine. It is certainly drinking now and will age for another decade. But now and the next five years are its sweet spot for opening and enjoying.
(NB The 2022 is yet to be released, so the current vintage is the 2021 – also at £95.59).
100% Sangiovese
14%
Drink 2025-2035
RRP bottle price from £95.99
Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2019 2019 was a textbook year in southern Tuscany. A cold and rainy spring slowed the growing cycle before things warmed up significantly with hot, dry weather in June and July, punctuated by the occasional rainstorm. August saw more of the same with perfectly timed showers at the end of the month to refresh the vines and provide ideal picking conditions into the harvest which began on September 14. Federico Radi and his team have taken full advantage of these conditions to craft a stellar 2019 Brunello with careful extraction and maceration as well as vinification in a variety of vessels from oak barrels to concrete and stainless steel tanks. The wine was then aged in Slavonian oak barrels for 30 months prior to bottling.
The wine is bright and primary with a floral cherry aroma with a touch of herbs and balsam. It is impeccably balanced, lithe and elegant with red cherry, plum and succulent, sweet red fruits as well as savoury tobacco and bay leaf. At 13.5% alcohol this is infused with super-refined tannins together with a crystalline acidity and purity that is enchanting. Medium-bodied in structure, with a sublime tapering finish, this cries out for food. It is ready now upon release and will age with ease for another twenty years - and then some.
100% Sangiovese
13.5%
Drink 2025-2045+
RRP bottle price from £240
Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2018In marked contrast to beneficent 2019, 2018 was not so easy, principally because it was such a cool and wet growing cycle throughout the year. With so much rain, a lot of work was required in the vineyard to manage the vigour in the canopy. Overall, temperatures for the summer were just below average while the Tramuntana wind from the north helped dry the grapes just prior to picking. Harvest began on September 16 and lasted for eight days. In order to achieve this level of quality, Federico Radi had to make a stringent selection from Biondi Santi’s oldest parcels, reducing production by 30%. So just 8,000 bottles were made.
Limpid and bright, this wine exudes sheer vinous class and a sotto voce complexity from its primary, scented-savoury nose to the fabulous finish. The graceful palate shows delicious, sweet red fruits with cherry, strawberry and raspberry alongside an initial hint of undergrowth and tobacco pouch. The oak is beautifully interwoven and remains perfectly hidden except in the supple texture and gentle tannic presence. The acidity is so cool, racy and precise here, framing the elegantly restrained mid-weight structure. This classic, complex terroir wine, magnificently crafted, will continue to shine for another three to four decades. Bravo.
100% Sangiovese
13.5%
Drink 2025-2045+
RRP bottle price from £765
Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1997 ‘La Storica’Tasting this library wine (made by Franco Biondi-Santi) at nearly thirty years of age, it continues to exhibit a rich colour in the glass. The bouquet is clearly developed but still retains some intense primary fruit of mulberry and bramble together with sous bois and balsamic notes. The palate is deep, powerful and intense and shows more muscle, flesh and structure than many of its older and younger siblings. The dark, ripe and generous fruits mingle with liquorice, tobacco and truffle to great effect leading to a powerful savoury finish. This is drinking perfectly now and will continue to do so for a decade or more.
100% Sangiovese
14%
Drink 2025-2035
RRP bottle price from £1100
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Further information:-Wines Worth Talking About
Gravner Tasting.*by Sarah Kemp*
“Two roads diverged in a wood, and I, I took the one less travelled by, And that has made all the difference” – Robert FrostAn invitation by Zubair Mohamed of Raeburn Fine Wines to a vertical tasting of Gravner wines conducted by Josko Gravner’s daughter Mateja, the fourth generation of the Gravner family, was one not to be missed. Orange or amber wine is still controversial, still dividing wine lovers – for many, the colour alone is symbolic of the free-for-all hippy-dippy, unsulphured, natural wine movement, a dubious beverage which your classical wine lover wouldn’t dream of pouring into their Riedel glass. Today, however, the natural wine movement is growing beyond a fringe group, judging by the success of natural wine in restaurants across the globe and the phenomenal success of wine events such as RAW, which attracted 3,000 visitors to London. The polarisation of the two tribes, however, seems to remain as divisive as our current politics, which is a shame, as curiosity and discovery are so rewarding for wine lovers, and too many may be missing out on some extraordinary wines.
The father of the modern “orange” winemaking movement is Josko Gravner (though he prefers his wines to be described as amber), whose winery is on the border between Collio, in the province of Gorizia, in Italy, and Brda, in Slovenia. His daughter Mateja explained how, in 1987, he travelled to California, but returned disappointed with how modern technological techniques made so many wines taste the same. It was the start of his belief that “technology is the limit, rely on technology and you put a limit on your own work.”
He was an early believer in the importance of vineyards not being monocultures and planted a variety of trees and plants on his terraces, (30 years later, this is happening at Châteaux Cheval Blanc and other prestigious wineries in Bordeaux and California). But it was a hailstorm in 1996 that destroyed 95% of the production that led him to a new path, when he had the chance to experiment fermenting half the remaining grapes with their skins, and half without. The results were clear, he decided, and the next year he ditched the barriques and stainless-steel tanks and turned to the big wooden vats his father used to use, allowing maceration without temperature control.
Gravner is also credited with his role in popularising the use of amphoras. In search of authenticity, he travelled to Georgia and ordered large earthenware amphoras (the first delivery was a disaster, Mateja confides, nine out of 12 arrived broken). Today, the cellar contains 47 amphoras, which are buried in the earth. “Amphora takes longer than oak to develop” Mateja reveals. Experimentation is in his blood, and he is now looking at glass vessels.
Gravner turning his back on modern technology, embracing nature, and setting out to sell a wine style which had no following, is all the more remarkable as he did it in the 1990s when Robert Parker’s power was at his height. Mateja laughed as she explained that her father didn’t care about the sales, he just wanted to make the wine he believed in.
The wines we were poured were Ribolla Gailla and Pignolo, a rare local red grape. Gravner’s wines are not released until seven years after harvest, and we started with the youngest, a Gravner Ribolla Gailla 2016, followed by the 2014, 2012 and 2010 vintages, then a pair of Rosso Breg Pignolo, 2008 and 2007. Mateja emphasised it was important to serve the wines at cellar temperature rather than chilled.
Looking at the dramatic contrast presented by the line-up of amber liquid in front of me, Robert Frost’s poem The Road not Taken came to mind, with its lines, “Two roads diverged in a wood, and I, I took the one less travelled by, and that has made all the difference.” Gravner’s road is certainly different in that he has extended the parameters of fine wine, certainly made our vinous world much more interesting and diverse. And if it’s also quite challenging as well, why not consider that a virtue too?
Sarah Kemp.
Wine Notes:- my three favourite wines2016 Gravner Ribolla GaillaBright amber, on the nose notes of herbs and peach, full-bodied, rich unctuous fruit, very long and pure, chalky texture, the wine open ups revealing more facets, oregano, mandarin, summer hay, changing every few minutes, a wonderful saline finish. A wine not to rush.
Stockist: Raeburn Fine Wines £90
2012 Gravner Ribolla GaillaMy wine of the tasting. Beautifully scented complex floral nose, rich, intense, powerful palate of firm fresh clementines and white stone fruit, full-bodied but with a delicious saline note. Complex and intriguing and a wine I would be happy to serve to any doubter that there are amber wines which stand up with the great wines of the world. Stockist: Italian Wine Selection £169 per magnum
2007 Gravner Rosso Breg Pignolo
Pignolo is a rare native grape, one which Gravner is championing. Fermented on the skins in large wooden vats with no temperature control, the wine exudes faded rose petals on the nose, there are masses of energy here, deep dense core of mulberries and wild cherries, with hints of leather. A wonderful streak of acid running through, giving delicious freshness, with hints of mint on the finish.
Stockist: Raeburn Fine Wines £175
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Wines Worth Talking About
Discover the Côte Chalonnaise with Jasper Morris MW in our latest 10-Minute Masterclass. Find out the differences between the villages of Bouzeron, Rully, Mercurey, Givry and Montagny. Listen in to learn about this varied region, which still offers value, and find out who are Jasper’s recommended producers to seek out.
Find out more at: wine-conversation.com
In conversation with Elena Carretero, Corporate Affairs and Sustainability Director at Viña Santa RitaBrought to you by our Founder Sponsor SANTA RITA ESTATES. Find out about them here.
Wine producers across the world know that they have to embrace sustainable viticulture in the face of climate change. The Wine Conversation asks Elena Carretero of Chile’s premier winery Viña Santa Rita five questions on the work they are undertaking in the vineyards and beyond, as they embrace a sustainable future.
Water is a major issue for Chilean wineries as climate change impacts the globe. What is Santa Rita Estates' sustainable approach to water conservation?At Santa Rita Estates, 99% of our vineyards are equipped with drip irrigation systems, providing 90% efficiency in water use, which allows us to optimize resources and prevents unnecessary waste. We also use advanced tools that precisely measure the water needs of our vines, enabling us to tailor irrigation to the specific conditions of each vineyard.
We promote soil health through regenerative practices that enhance its water-retention capacity and resilience to adverse climate conditions, as well as carefully selecting grape varieties best suited to the terroir and specific characteristics of each vineyard, such as water availability and soil type. This strategy reduces the need for additional irrigation and encourages the vines’ natural adaptation to the environment.
In our wineries, we use innovative projects that reduce water usage and promote water recycling, which minimizes our environmental footprint. At the same time, we collaborate with our employees and surrounding communities to raise awareness about water conservation, reaffirming our commitment to sustainability and social responsibility.
Biodiversity and soil management are essential for a healthy vineyard. What practices are Santa Rita Estates embracing?We constantly implement strategies to conserve and enhance the physical, chemical, and biological properties of our soils. For example, all our vineyards have cover crops and/or native vegetation, which reduces soil erosion and improves soil quality. Each vineyard has been thorough studied to determine the most efficient plant species to use. Additionally, we are investigating the microbiological aspects of our soils, to evaluate the positive effects of promoting biodiversity on our fertilization plans and pest and disease management.
These efforts reflect our commitment to not only produce exceptional wines, but also contribute to the balance and sustainability of the surrounding ecosystems.
Chaotic weather patterns, including wildfires, pose significant challenges to wineries. How does Santa Rita Estates address unpredictable weather?We take several proactive approaches to address the effects of unpredictable weather and protect our vineyards and their surroundings. Some examples are:
Fire prevention and response. We have robust fire prevention and response plans, including the creation of firebreaks, vegetation management around vineyards, and emergency procedure training for our teams. This plan not only safeguards our vineyards, but also protects the architectural heritage of our estate, which houses artworks and pieces from the past century, as well as the invaluable pre-Columbian collection of the Museo Andino.
Vineyard diversification. Our vineyards are strategically located in different valleys across Chile, minimizing the risks associated with extreme weather in any single region.
Advanced climate monitoring. We utilize sophisticated climate-monitoring systems and data analysis to anticipate weather events and adapt our agricultural practices, such as irrigation, pruning, and harvest schedules, accordingly.
Regenerative farming practices: Techniques like improving soil health and water retention help mitigate the effects of heat stress and drought on the vines. We also select grape varieties and rootstocks that are resilient in adverse climate conditions.
Research projects. We continually participate in and evaluate research initiatives that explore these innovative solutions
All these measures ensure our ability to face the challenges posed by a changing climate while maintaining the quality of our wines and the health of our environment.
How are you reducing its carbon emissions? Santa Rita Estates is fully committed to sustainability and reducing its carbon footprint, and has adopted a comprehensive approach that spans our direct operations and entire value chain.
We have, for example, joined the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) to align our greenhouse gas emission reductions with the Paris Agreement. Our goal is to achieve these reductions by 2033.
Emission breakdown: Approximately 10% of our emissions come from Scope 1 (direct emissions), 5% from Scope 2 (consumption of purchased electricity), and 85% from Scope 3 (indirect emissions from our value chain). Scope 3 emissions include all indirect emissions across the value chain, except for purchased electricity. This covers emissions from raw materials, packaging (like glass bottles), transportation (upstream and downstream), waste management, employee travel, product use, and final treatment, such as recycling or disposal. These activities highlight the importance of addressing Scope 3 in sustainability strategies, and we are exploring innovative solutions with suppliers, such as using recycled glass and more efficient manufacturing processes. Additionally, we are collaborating with our suppliers, exploring the use of non-conventional renewable energy sources for glass bottle production and its transportation, even evaluating the feasibility of using green hydrogen.
Renewable energy. We have made significant strides in adopting renewable energy. Currently, International Renewable Energy Certificates (IRECs) cover 45% of our total electricity consumption, complemented by on-site solar-energy installations, substantially reducing our reliance on fossil fuels.
Regenerative agriculture. In our vineyards, we are reducing agrochemical use through regenerative practices that not only decrease emissions but also improve soil health and promote carbon capture.
How does Santa Rita Estates contribute to social responsibility in surrounding communities?We recognize that social responsibility covers more than our operations, and encompasses the development, well-being, and empowerment of the communities around us. In 2012, we began the Territorial Valorization program, which aims to promote local attributes and create a sense of belonging and pride within the community, encouraging local development and social integration while ensuring the proper use of natural and cultural resources in the area. It consists of the following projects:
Harvest Project. Classes and workshops led by their teachers and our professionals are held in school classrooms over a two-month period, integrating the curriculum with connections among the different subjects and winemaking. In History, Geography and Social Studies, for example, they study the origins, customs, and progression of wine back to 6000 BC, while in Language they learn about poetry and wine traditions, and in Natural Sciences they learn about the chemical processes of making wine.
Knowing the Biodiversity of my Territory. This project aims to get children to appreciate local flora and fauna, and thus generate a sense of pride and awareness of the importance of local biodiversity and the role they can play in caring for it.
Santa Rita´s Season Concert Cycle. Since 2012, the Claro Vial Foundation, in partnership with Viña Santa Rita, hosts the Season Concert Cycle, an initiative under the Law of Cultural Donations. Each cycle consists of concerts in the four seasons of the year, with a presentation for the general public and an extension concert in a masterclass format for students of the schools in the communities surrounding Viña Santa Rita. To date, approximately 300 students have participated in each concert, totaling 6,800 attendees.
Culture. Our Andean Museum, with over 3,000 pre-Columbian artifacts, attracts around 1,500 visitors annually, offering a unique educational experience that promotes the appreciation and preservation of our rich cultural heritage. Since 2012, we have been developing this programme in partnership with the Corporación de Empresarios del Maipo (CEM, Maipo Business Corporation), which aims to bring the community closer to culture through educational visits to the Museo Andino. Socially vulnerable primary and secondary school students, together with their teachers and families, learn in a different, playful and interactive way, about the value of the area’s culture, creating a sense of belonging and appreciation of the legacy of our Indigenous Peoples.
Local Development. We actively support local entrepreneurs and artisans by providing them with platforms to showcase and sell their products during events like Wine Day and Heritage Day, which attract approximately 5,000 visitors each. These opportunities foster further cultural appreciation and connect local businesses with a broader audience, boosting their economic potential.
For Santa Rita Estates, our sustainability vision, like our vineyard and winemaking initiatives, is deeply rooted in strengthening the local economy and unceasingly promoting practices that respect and value the cultural and natural richness of our surroundings. It is all one and, we believe, the right one.
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Some producers say that the quality of their wine is down to their pruning methods. Jane Anson looks at the art of pruning in our latest 10-Minute Masterclass. Listen in and discover the different types of pruning, when to prune, the rules and regulations and why it makes a difference to the wine in your glass.
Find out more at: wine-conversation.com
Listen in to Omnibus for all the latest wine news and views. This month John Stimpfig reports on the 2023 Burgundy vintage, Elin McCoy names her top three value Bordeaux 2022, we look at the state of the US wine industry, Trump update on tariffs, modern slavery in the Langhe vineyards. Plus exciting results from an experiment using dogs to detect vine diseases, and Elin’s Sauternes and sushi revelation. This Omnibus is brought to you by our Founder Sponsor, Santa Rita Wine Estates.
Find out more at wine-conversation.com
Listen in to another great 10-Minute Masterclass with Burgundy expert Jasper Morris MW, author of Inside Burgundy and the brilliant website www.insideburgundy.com. This month he looks at Morey-St-Denis in the Côte d’Or. Find out about its terroir, the producers to know and who he recommends keeping an eye out for. 10 minutes of invaluable Burgundy wisdom.
Find out more at: wine-conversation.com
Kellerei Cantina Terlan Tasting, 21st November 2024.*by Sarah Kemp*
It is not at all usual to go to Bordeaux for an Italian white wine tasting, so it was one of the more offbeat invitations I have received in my career. I was intrigued, however, by the rare opportunity on offer: To taste a vertical of Kellerei Cantina Terlan (Cantina Terlano in Italian) wines going back to 1955, and to discover whether this renowned Italian white wine aged as beautifully as a great red. The tasting took place at Chateau Lascombes, where Axel Heinz has returned from Ornellaia to take charge of the 2nd growth Bordeaux château, under the new ownership of Gaylon Lawrence, of Lawrence Wine Estates, which own Heitz Cellars.
Axel is an old friend of Cantina Terlan director Klaus Gasser and winemaker Rudi Kofler, who believe that their white wines can age in a similar way to the greatest of red wines, and so he offered to put this to the test in the tasting room of this 2nd growth Bordeaux château on a very wet, windy day last November.
Situated in South Tyrol, close to the Austrian border, Cantina Terlan is one of Italy’s great white wines, today found mainly on the world’s top restaurant wine lists and in a few select independent wine merchants. It’s a winemaking co-operative, founded in 1893, and today comprises of 143 members, each with a small parcel of vine rows that totals 190 hectares. The vines range in altitude from 200 to 900 metres above sea level. The quartz porphyry bedrock is of volcanic origin, and the light, sandy-loam soils have a high quartz content. The hallmark of the wines is a distinctive saline character, and its legendary ability to age.
Terlano’s three traditional varieties are Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The largest proportion of the blend is Pinot Blanc. Winemaker Rudi Kofler started here in 1999, and in 2002 took over the production; that year, he returned to the old style of using large oak casks. Yeast contact is very important, he told us, with 18 months yeast contact before bottling.
As the November wind blew hard outside the tasting room at Chateau Lascombes, I reflected on the narrow idea we have of varieties that are age-worthy and, possibly sometimes, the belief that a wine made by a co-operative cannot be as fine as one made by a domaine. I discovered immediately that Cantina Terlan proves this wrong. The Terlan co-operative could best be described as a group of small growers whose aim is world-class quality not quantity.
Pinot Blanc, the main component of the Cantina Terlan blend, showed without doubt that in the right place it can produce wines of exquisite complexity and age-ability. What was consistent in all the wines was a distinct sense of place, a clear identity, so was I convinced they could age as well as a great Bordeaux red? A definitive yes.
Sarah Kemp.
Wine Notes:-Terlaner Nova Domus Riserva 2021The Riservas are released after 2 years in bottle, and the 2021 vintage is a blend of 70% Pinot Bianco, 25% Chardonnay, 5% Sauvignon Blanc. Light gold, enticing floral nose jumping out of the glass, reminiscent of summer mountain meadows, On the palate, tight, brightly vibrant lime and citric fruit, very young, core deep, racy with acidity piercing through, needs time, saline finish, very poised but masses to give in the future. 14% abv.
Terlaner Nova Domus Riserva 2013The 2013 vintage is a blend of 60% Pinot Blanc, 25% Chardonnay 5% Sauvignon Blanc. Luminous golden colour, summer hay on nose, complex deep core of harmonious white fruit, lots of minerality but roundness and generosity here, lyrical, with saline lick through it, very textured, powerful richness but so moreish and savoury, rising with every sip, masses of energy and still young and very vibrant. Long and persistent power on finish. 14.5% abv.
Terlaner Nova Domus Riserva 2003Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc
A hot and dry summer produced one of the smallest harvests of the last few decades and picking took place two weeks earlier than usual. The fermentation took place half in barriques and half in tonneaux. The wine is deep gold in colour, richness on nose, fully evolved, stone fruit, slight hints of butterscotch, textured, the signature saline grip, but heat of vintage showing with flatter profile on finish. 14% abv.
Terlaner Nova Domus 1998Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc
The 1998 vintage was a cool vintage which was difficult to sell when it was first released due to its pronounced acidity. Bottled in 2000, the wine has now found its balance. Deep luminous gold, mandarin orange rind on nose, powerful expression of orange peel, lime, with beautiful texture, that saline lick again present, a harmonious blend of fruit and acidity very direct, full and driven, still acidity driving through, with a tightness on the finish. 13.5% abv.
Rarity – Cantina Terlan only releases Rarity in outstanding vintages. After a year ageing in wooden barrels, the wine is transferred into small steel tanks where it is left to age for another 10 to 30 years. Only when the winemaker believes the wine is ready to be enjoyed at its fullest is it released.
Terlaner Rarity 2008Pinot Blanc 85%, Chardonnay 10%, Sauvignon Blanc 5%
Whole-cluster pressing, slow fermentation at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks with malolactic fermentation and ageing on lees in big wooden barrels for 12 months. Further ageing on lees in steel tanks without filtering or fining for 11 years. A beautifully balanced wine, full core of vibrant citric fruit, creamy, freshness, so loads of minerality dancing across the palate. Terrific. 13.5% abv.
Terlaner Rarity 1991Pinot Blanc 60%, Chardonnay 30%, Sauvignon Blanc 10%
The grapes were crushed in a 30-minute programme on an old horizontal Vaslin press. After fermentation and 10 months spent on full lees in a 2,500 litre barrel, the wine was left to mature on fine lees in a 2,500 metre steel tank for a further 24 years. Mid-gold in colour, orange peel and hay on the nose, very enticing, very serious, so complex, stone fruit, greengages, hints of coconut. Firm texture with lots of minerals appearing as the wine develops. Very balanced and with a delicious, persistent finish. Mesmerising. 13% abv.
Terlaner Weißurgunder Rarity 1979
This vintage is 100% Pinot Blanc and was bottled in 1991. Slow fermentation in stainless-steel tanks with malolactic fermentation, then aged on lees in big wooden barrels for 12 months with further aging on lees in steel tanks without filtering or fining. Orange-gold in colour, wet hay on nose reminiscent of a clean stable. This wine is so youthful! Rich orange with hints of caramel on the nose, very fresh, complex, deep taut core of firm autumn fruit, very emotional wine, so fluid and lyrical, beautiful fluid movement in the wine which just comes back and back with waves on the palate exposing deeper layers, fresh truffle, that signature mineral lick, and keeps its strength straight to the long finish A magnificent wine. 13.2% abv.
Terlaner 1966Fermented in 25-hectolitre big oak barrels, the vintage blend is Pinot Blanc 70%, Chardonnay 30%, with malolactic fermentation and ageing on lees in traditional wooden barrels for 8 months. Burnished gold in colour, extraordinary explosion of fruit, glorious bramble apple, then hints of mandarin orange and lime, so ripe and full-bodied, very complex. Incredibly fresh and alive with complex layers of firm autumnal fruit and citric overtones, just goes on like an army on a march, salty, saline finish. Outstanding. 13.7% abv.
Terlaner 1955The 1955 vintage was considered outstanding in the Alto Adige, and the Terlaner 1955 confirms that opinion. It’s 70% Pinot Blanc and 30% Chardonnay. Deep rosy- bronze colour. Slowly fermented in 25 hectolitre big oak barrels, malolactic fermentation and ageing on lees, in traditional wooden barrels for 8 months, the wine was bottled in 1956. A highly evolved nose of gently bruised apple, the wine is fully alive with acidity quite present but totally in balance, with autumnal fruit, that lime again and deep, deep core of evolving layers of firm fruit and that signature lick of saline which just invites you to drink more. High-voltage energy. Will last forever, extraordinary. 12.9% abv.
Terlaner Primo Grande Cuvée 2013The Terlander Primo Grande Cuvée is only produced int the best vintages and vinified in a very limited edition. The blend changes depending on the vintage but is combination of Terlaner’s most representative varieties, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Only 3,000 bottles were made, the blend is 90% Pinot Blanc, 7% Chardonnay and 3% Sauvignon Blanc. Fermentation in big oak 30-hectolitre casks, malolactic fermentation and ageing on lees for 12 months in big wooden barrels. Mid-gold, bright zesty nose, round richness of the Chardonnay showing with a huge kick of zest followed by layers of minerals on finish. Racy and powerful, like a high-speed Ferrari. 14.5% abv.
Terlaner Primo Grande Cuvée 2019The blend is 70% Pinot Blanc, 28% Chardonnay, 2% Sauvignon Blanc. Slow fermentation in 12-hectolitre oak casks, malolactic fermentation and ageing on lees for 12 months in big wooden barrels. Mid-gold, fresh straw on nose, very intense core with massive depth of citric fruit, extremely racy, needs time to settle down, unless you like going round hair-pin bends at full speed. 14% abv.
Terlaner Primo Grande Cuvée 2021The 2021 vintage was smaller than usual in volume The blend is 65% Pinot Blanc, 33% Chardonnay, 2% Sauvignon Blanc. Bright light gold, first impression is of the evidence of that saline lick, lots of power and structure here, spice, masses of intense citric fruit, expressive and rich with a long finish. 14% abv.
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Further information:-Cantina Terlan
Helping military veterans overcome PTSD, giving young disadvantaged people a chance to enter the wine world, scholarships for individuals caught up in geopolitical conflicts, just some of the causes The Gerard Basset Foundation financially supports. Romané Basset talks to Sarah Kemp about the work being done by the Foundation in memory of his father, the late great Gerard Basset, an amazing legacy for an amazing man.
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Italian guru David Gleave MW takes a look at Sicily in our latest 10-Minute Masterclass. He takes us through its varied landscape and five different wine regions, guides us through its different grape varieties and advises which producers to look out for. A great deep dive into one of Italy’s most exciting regions.
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Listen in to our special festive edition of Omnibus. John Stimpfig and Sarah Kemp both name their top five wines of the year and Elin McCoy names her top champagnes. Brian St Pierre lists The Wine Conversation’s books of the year, and reveals it is a vintage year for great wine books. We look back at some of our most memorable podcasts and our greatest trips. Sarah has banned bad news, so there is no Weather Watch or Farewell to, just lots of great wine moments to enjoy. Wishing everyone a very Happy Christmas.
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Reviewed by Brian St Pierre
Unaffected by adverse weather, or a lot of noise about hard seltzer and other odd beverages, or tariffs, taxes, and social-media influencers showing off, wine books had a very good vintage in 2024, with a lot of useful information well-presented informally, a welcome sort of literate climate change right across the wine spectrum. “Best” can be terribly subjective, but these certainly stood out as notable, as well as commendably accessible.
Towering, monumental:THE AUSTRALIAN ARK, by Andrew Caillard MWIt’s subtitled “The story of Australian wine,” and at three volumes of 1,710 pages, weighing in at 5.7 kg, that initial claim is staked honestly, and the follow-through (it’s extremely well-written, researched, and illustrated) can’t be challenged either. However well we may have thought we knew many of the remarkable stories of the colourful visionaries who challenged the awesome landscapes of that “strange, inhospitable, hinterland,” and whose disasters, glories, and incredible results still abound, there are more discoveries here, never before so artfully gathered and arrayed.
This is simply monumental, taking us from Captain James Cook’s first voyage to Australia in 1770 and the settlement at Botany Bay (“as dangerous during the 18th century as sending a man to the moon in the 1960s,” Caillard states) to the present, which he calls “heat and dust-ups,” graced by legendary figures like Len Evans as well as the newest generation of winemakers pushing boundaries, Kylie Minogue, sustainability, and still, perhaps inevitably, more growing pains, in every sense.
Offbeat, upbeat, and wonderful:WHO’S AFRAID OF ROMANEE-CONTI?: a Shortcut to Drinking Great Wines, by Dan Keeling From one of the founders ofa genially disruptive magazine and mini-chain of sophisticated bistros called Noble Rot, this collection of essays, useful tips and asides, jokes and pokes at conventional wisdom, and oddly angled photos may seem to traditionalists like a throw-it-at-the-wall-and-see-what-sticks hodgepodge, but it’s really just a cool approach to relaxing into the multitude of available wine opportunities, away from the old-fashioned “passive respect for hierarchy” that has made many of us feel as if we’re sitting in a hard chair listening to a rote recital instead of enjoying one of life’s greatest pleasures. For one thing, it opens the door to numerous pleasant discoveries, some of which are also bargains; for another, why shouldn’t an article on Swiss wine rest comfortably near one on vin jaune just before jostling another on the mysterious joys of Viognier, if all are up for an easy-going good time? It’s like a box of superb chocolates – dip in anywhere and be rewarded.
WINE CONFIDENT: There’s No Wrong Way to Enjoy Wine, by Kelli White And here’s that word again!The fact that “enjoy” is right there in the title is a good tipoff to its intent, as a former sommelier and fluent writer re-introduces us to wine from that angle. You might think, looking at its many sidebars, exuberant exhortations, concise “pro tips” and wealth of question-and-answer cheerleading, that you’re on a forced march to fun, but the author’s genial self-confidence and well-judged self-effacing approach thoroughly reinforce the promise of the title. It’s fundamental rather than basic, and if you’ve ever had a genial chat with a sommelier that led to a delicious step or two up, you’ll appreciate this array of pleasant reminders.
A SEASON FOR THAT: Lost and Found in the Other Southern France, by Steve Hoffman The premise is made clear from the start – as Mark Twain put it a long time ago, “The gentle reader will never, never know what a consummate ass he can become, until he goes abroad." Hoffman, a quietly inhibited tax accountant from the staid American Midwest who’s fairly fluent in French after a postgraduate stint in Paris that left him hopelessly in love with France, drags his wife and young kids off to a village in the Languedoc, on a haphazard voyage of discovery, ranging through gastronomic, emotional, and embarrassingly personal turns. In the end, he’s saved by wine, unsentimentally, literally from the ground up, pruning vines, picking grapes and getting involved in making it, sharing aches, pains, cuts and bruises--and new pleasures – with his neighbours, and us, finally becoming enlightened, often very funny company (and, eventually, an award-winning food and wine writer). It would take a heart of stone to read this book and not fall in love with wine all over again.
Terroir indeed – senses of places:ON TUSCANY: From Brunello to Bolgheri, Wine Tales from the Heart of Italy Another first-rate anthology from the Academie du Vin Library, featuring Hugh Johnson, David Gleave MW, Andrew Jefford, Burton Anderson, Jane Anson, D.H. Lawrence, Nick Belfrage MW and many others who’ve yielded to the numerous seductions of that fabled place, and are happy to tell us why we should join them.
VINES IN A COLD CLIMATE, by Henry Jeffreys This one came out at the end of 2023, and now it’s here in paperback, an amiable, well-told tale of how a gaggle of winemakers and a few unlikely helpers, almost united by a slightly hazy sense of destiny and private definitions of topography, created something that can now be called, without irony or sarcasm, an English wine industry.
WINES OF THE LOIRE VALLEY, by Beverly Blanning MW The Loire is France’s longest river, and the valley offers an abundance of vineyards and wine, picturesque castles, glorious views and good cheer (I once got lost there, and it was a pleasant experience). Now, here’s a good guide as well. A sturdy paperback (in the Infinite Ideas series, now owned by Academie du Vin Library), it’s an excellent companion, and the timing couldn’t be better, as the region is having a renaissance, with widespread organic certification and a stronger sense of “faithful expression of their terroirs” by a new generation bringing “youthful energy and alternative perspectives” to what had become a rather staid region. Blanning captures it all quite well convincingly persuading us to take another look, and a lot of pleasant tastes.
THE WINES OF PIEMONTE, by David Way Another similar sturdy paperback from the same stable, this is something of an update and roundup of the scene in that noble art of the world; the author is an educator and writer for the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, and his approach is methodical, thorough and down-to-earth. As elsewhere, a new generation is picking up the pace of change, and of course have some of the best natural resources in the world to work with, and it’s exhilarating to see what’s being done – and to look forward to the results.
Deep dive of the year:ONE THOUSAND VINES: A New Way to Understand Wine, by Pascaline Lepeltier The author was voted “best French sommelier” a few years ago, one of a string of awards she’s collected; she also won an award for “best French worker.” Here’s evidence of both those, although the original French subtitle – “thinking about tomorrow’s wine” – may be better proof of her intent. In many ways, this is an awesome undertaking, passionately downloading an avalanche of knowledge of wine, from the roots up (literally) to the glass that sits before us, connecting dots among history, soil, science, and joy we may not have even known existed, inviting, even demanding: “Given the distressing and stultifying environmental and political crises that are raging,” she concludes, “living wine offers joyful ways to resist a system that wishes to see us dispirited, delimited, and deprived of meaning… by educating our palate, the needed revolution will be possible.” I don’t know about you, but I’m happy to join her on the barricades. And grateful to her for this roar of reminder. Allons, enfants!
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As war in the Lebanon yet again fills our news channels Sarah Kemp talks to Marc Hochar of Chateau Musar for our series “Great Wine Lives”. Listen in to hear his earliest memories of Chateau Musar, the conversations he had with his father Serge and Musar’s philosophy of non-intervention. Discover what it is like to farm in the Beka’a Valley, and the responsibility he feels every time he sends workers out.
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Listen in to Omnibus 33 to hear all the latest news and views from the world of wine. This month we start by looking at three great wine-friendly restaurants definitely worth a visit. Astonishing news comes in the report of the theft of an entire vineyard crop in the Jura just before harvest (spoiler alert- it happened in the Jura last year too). Over in the US Elin McCoy discusses what Donald Trump could mean for the wine world and reports on major news from Virginia. It has been a busy month at The Wine Conversation with everyone on planes and trains. John heads to Italy for the Old Vine Conference, Sarah flies to Dublin to celebrate Terroir’s 30th anniversary and Elin is in Italy for a 2-day extravaganza celebrating cashmere king Bruno Cucinelli’s new wines. All this plus Chinese wine influencer Lady Penguin’s latest news, Weather Watch, People News and much more.
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Which country in Asia is going to be the next hot spot for fine wine? Listen in to hear Timothy Goh of Vinum Fine Wines talk to Sarah Kemp about the dynamic fine wine market in South-East Asia. Discover his tip for the region he believes has the best future and find out which South-East Asian country has as many women collectors as men – plus his view on the future of Hong Kong and Singapore as key wine hubs.
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Masseto Vertical, 4th November 2024The Raffles London, Old War Office Building.*by John Stimpfig*
Opportunities to taste verticals of Masseto are both rare and precious. So when an invitation to taste a range of vintages in London from 2021 back to the 1996 landed in my inbox from its owner, Lamberto Frescobaldi, and its new winemaker, Marco Balsimelli, my affirmative RSVP was by immediate return.
The last time I encountered a similar line up of wines from this Tuscan supermodel was in Shanghai in 2018. Since then, much has changed – at least in terms of the key personnel at Masseto. In particular, its high-performing estate director Axel Heinz left in 2023 to take the reins at Château Lascombes in Margaux. He was duly replaced earlier this year by the Italian-born oenologist Marco Balsimelli, who had lived and worked in Bordeaux for 17 years, most of which were spent working with Eric Boissenot. Meanwhile, the estate’s long-serving CEO Giovanni Geddes also retired in 2023 after decades of distinguished service and careful brand building. Significantly, Geddes also orchestrated the construction of Masseto’s sleek new bespoke cellar in 2018.
Masseto was famously brought to life by Lodovico Antinori some four decades ago. It emerged as a separate, seven hectare hillside parcel within the boundaries of his Ornellaia property (created in 1981). At that time, Lodovico’s consultant was the great André Tchelistcheff who identified the plot as ideal for Merlot, thanks to its blue clay soils.
Masseto’s early vintages (beginning in 1987) made an immediate impact. High quality and small production meant that it was both rarer, and pricier than Ornellaia. It quickly became a both darling of the market and a true collector’s item thanks, in part, to its ability to combine the elegance of Pomerol with the flamboyant richness of California.
The first winemaker was the Hungarian Tibor Gal. On his return to Hungary, he was replaced by the Bordeaux winemaker Thomas Duroux. By now, Michel Rolland had also joined the Masseto/Ornellaia team as its consultant, on Tchelistcheff’s retirement. Rolland still remains in post more than three decades later.
In 2005, Duroux departed for Château Palmer and was replaced by Axel Heinz who had previously worked on Bordeaux’s left bank at La Dominique. It was yet another highly successful appointment.
Masseto is not an easy wine to make for all sorts of reasons. In particular, it is a high-wire act that requires considerable skill, judgement and nerve in both the vineyard and winery. With Bolgheri’s hot summers and Merlot’s ability to ripen on the rich blue clay soils, there has always been the potential danger of high sugars and high alcohols. And certainly some over-extracted vintages in the early 2000s didn’t always get the balance 100% right between alcohol, phenolic ripeness and acidity.
Over the last dozen or so vintages that is no longer the case – despite the fact that climate change has made viticulture even more challenging. In 2018, Heinz explained why; ‘even in lush, ripe dense vintages, the finish remains fresh thanks to high acidity. This has to come from the soil, especially in hot dry years when you’d expect lower levels.’ It’s this that helps Masseto to carry its high alcohol so well – often effortlessly.
Over the last forty years, there have been innumerable experiments and incremental improvements in the vineyard. In 2012, it was converted to organic farming and for a number of years, the estate has also used bush vines which help maintain acidity and freshness in warmer vintages. These days, the estate is also entirely dry farmed. ‘Now, the work in the vines is mostly about fine-tuning small details,’ explains Lamberto Frescobaldi.
The winemaking has certainly changed considerably over time. In Tibor Gal’s day, the wine was aged for eighteen months in 50% new oak. These days it spends a full two years in new barriques. Yet, on the evidence of this tasting, you barely notice it - such is the power and concentration of the fruit. This is especially true of recent vintages where sublime fruit complexity, exquisite freshness and balance have become the new hallmarks of Masseto’s evolving style and constant search for perfection.
Marco Balsimelli is clearly set to continue this less is more approach in the vineyard and winery. ‘We try to do as little as possible to the wines,’ he says. ‘Our goal is simply to capture the essence of nature and take it to the highest level.’ That undoubtedly bodes well for Masseto and its loyal consumers.
John Stimpfig.
Wine Notes:-2021 Masseto, Toscana IGTThe 2021 shows the current stylistic trajectory of Masseto in the direction of finesse, elegance and precision -whilst optimising the bounty of its amazing raw material from what was a warm vintage in Bolgheri. The vintage was also a return to 100% Merlot after a couple of years of flirting with 15% Cabernet Franc in the blend. Fermentation took place in concrete vats before the wine was moved to new French oak barrels for the malolactic. The wine then spent a total of 24 months in barriques prior to a year in bottle before release.
Opaque, youthful colour with a gorgeous nose of primary red fruits and seductive floral perfume. Exquisitely balanced, fresh and glossy this offers lifted fruits of juicy cherry, cassis and raspberry together with minerals and cocoa powder. The bright acidity and refined tannins give this wine an almost ethereal weightless quality. But there is power here too that is so cleverly balanced, concealed and integrated that both the 15.5% alcohol and the oak treatment remain entirely hidden, except in the wine’s sublime mouthfeel. Utterly compelling with a long dry, saline finish, this is already deliciously drinkable and will age for aeons. Extraordinary.
ABV 15.5%
Drink 2024 -2070+
Bottle Price £666
100% Merlot
2016 Masseto, Toscana IGTThe 2016 Masseto comes from a textbook vintage on the Tuscan coast with harvest beginning on August 24 and ending September 20. Once picked plot by plot, the wine was vinified in the Ornellaia cellar where fermentation took place in a mix of stainless steel, wooden vats and in small barriques. The malolactic was carried out in 100% new French barriques and then aged for a further twelve months. All the lots were then blended and then returned to barriques for another 12 months elevage.
Still deep garnet. Impenetrable colour. Violets, blackcurrant and rosemary on the nose. Sweet, lifted cherry and blackberry fruits follow through on the palate with ink and liquorice. Again you find Masseto’s hallmark elegance with its impeccable balance and controlled, effortless power. A perfect marriage of fine acidity, fleshy tannic ripeness and structure this reveals layer upon layer of flavour, texture, complexity and pleasure ending with a monumental dry finish. The wine is now only just beginning to open up but this still has decades to go. Without question a great and magisterial Masseto.
ABV 15%
Drink 2024 -2060
Bottle Price £955
100% Merlot
2015 Masseto, Toscana IGTAnother very fine vintage in the Maremma that gave birth to another magnificent Masseto. The winter was mild and rainy allowing water reserves to build up. Flowering took place at the end of May which was followed by hot dry weather in June and July. Just as fears began to mount that the vines might shut down in the heat, the rains arrived right on cue on the 10th of August, revitalising the vines and heralding cooler but still sunny weather. As a result, the various blocks and parcels of vines were picked at perfect ripeness.
Nearly ten years on there is barely any concession to age in the deep colour of this wine, while the nose presents a lovely primary aroma of cream and cassis with a slight tertiary hint that is only just beginning to emerge. A more concentrated Masseto than the 16, this has a wilder, more Tuscan feel to it with flavours of dark cherry, bramble, liquorice, smoked meat, charcoal and tobacco pouch. A fine spine of acidity and grippy tannins frame the wine which finishes with a pronounced savoury flourish. This can be enjoyed now but will continue to age and improve over the next three to four decades.
ABV 14.5%
Drink 2024 -2064
Bottle Price £879
100% Merlot
2013 Masseto, Toscana IGTA cool start to the vintage brought about a delayed and abnormally long flowering period at the estate. However, the grapes caught up in warmer weather especially in July. Some August storms cooled things down, refreshed the vines and led to a later harvest beginning on September 12 and ending two weeks later with the last block being Masseto Centrale.
Eleven years on the 2013 is in terrific shape, still energetically holding on to its profound primary fruits comprising blueberry and blackberry alongside leather, cedar and sandalwood. The tannins are ripe and round while the fresh acidity frames the midweight structure. Although less concentrated than some in this line-up, there’s no lack of texture, complexity or pleasure in this 2013 Masseto which ends on a high with a long dry, saline finish. Just hitting its stride, this is delicious now but it also has plenty of life and development to look forward to.
ABV 14.5%
Drink 2024 -2060
Bottle Price £736
100% Merlot
2010 Masseto, Toscana IGTA distinctly warm hot summer in Bolgheri saw frequently hot days in July and August at over 35C with little respite at night. Strong scirocco winds from Africa at the end of August and the beginning of September also aided the rapid ripening process, resulting in one of the earliest harvests on record, ending on September 10.
The 09 Masseto speaks clearly of its winemaking era and vintage being overtly more hedonistic, fleshy and seductive than its younger siblings. The fruit and flavour spectrum is more evolved and exotic with smoked meat, kirsch, coffee grind, liquorice and leather followed by hints of sous-bois and dried fruit on the mid palate. The acidity is softer and the tannins are generous and supple. It has also moved into a more tertiary phase of its development which is not to take anything away from the pleasure, interest and complexity that is very much on show – now and for the next 10-20 years.
ABV 15%
Drink 2024 -2044
Bottle Price £781
100% Merlot
2006 Masseto, Toscana IGTFortunately, Bolgheri experienced a wet winter coming into 2006 – because from April to August the vines saw almost no rain. At the same time, those summer months were never too hot and the vines produced a good volume of smaller-sized grapes with great aromatic potential as well as high concentrations of sugars, acids and tannins. It promised to be a memorable Masseto.
And so it was – and remains. Indeed, the 2006 is showing less concession to age than the younger 09 (above) thanks to a vibrant charge of acidity that continues to hold the wine in an almost miraculous state of suspended animation. At nearly 20 years of age, this elegant Masseto is now in a very good place with a fabulous nose and palate offering a gorgeous compote of cherry, cassis, mocha, leather, rosemary and cigar box. The palate is refined, dry, savoury and complex. The fulsome tannins have evolved and softened to perfection and there is just a hint of emerging sous-bois bottle age to add spice and interest. The dry, savoury saline finish is monumental. Drink now and for the next forty years.
ABV 15%
Drink 2024 -2060
Bottle Price £1094
100% Merlot
2005 Masseto, Toscana IGTAfter an early flowering in the third week of May, the summer months of June, July and August provided just the right amount of hot dry weather and occasional rainfall for the vines to flourish. At the end of August, preliminary analyses revealed encouragingly high polyphenols and good natural acidity. September kept things going with warm temperatures and occasional showers leading to a late harvest of optimally ripened grapes across all the plots. The vintage was finally completed on September 30.
On the evidence of this tasting, the 2005 has moved from its adolescence to a comfortable and sophisticated early middle age. Hence its classy and more-ish tertiary aromas of truffle and cep, both of which continue onto the palate. Also present in the mouth are sweet brambly black fruits, coffee, cedar and a slight ginger tang. It still retains a very pleasing acidity and round, textured tannins give the wine a balanced plushness and generosity. The finish is long and tapering.
ABV 15%
Drink 2024 -2045
Bottle Price £844
100% Merlot
1999 Masseto, Toscana IGTThe 1999 growing season provided very propitious conditions throughout and featured a hot, dry summer. Harvest began in the second week of September and finished a week later in ideal weather.
Remarkably, the 1999 retains a deep colour in the glass a quarter of a century on. The nose shows some concession to age with lovely mature notes of truffle, sous-bois and balsam as well as bilberry, cassis and chocolate. An elegant, more moderately proportioned Masseto, its fine grained tannins work in harmony with the acidity and the wine has a dry, chalky finish. Now at an especially good stage of maturity, this is drinking beautifully. Equally, it still has a good decade or more ahead of it.
ABV 14.5%
Drink 2024 -2040
Bottle Price £873
100% Merlot
1996 Masseto, Toscana IGTDuring the summer temperatures were warm and stable but not excessively hot. Some August rain then delayed the ripening process a little. However, temperatures then rose significantly at the beginning of September enable the grapes to ripen and be picked in perfect conditions between the 8-12th of September.
In my tasting book, this gorgeous thoroughbred red was arguably the most complete and compelling wine of the tasting – especially when poured in magnum at dinner later in the evening. It possesses an utterly sublime, complex and beguiling nose of black olive, balsam, cep and truffle. The more classically styled and lighter (medium-bodied) palate was just as fabulous with savoury herbs, sous-bois, cigar box and ripe cassis and mocha. With its superb acidity and fleshy, melting tannins this had everything you could ask for from a truly great wine that is now at or approaching its peak over the next 10 years. If you are fortunate to have this in your cellar, you are truly blessed.
ABV 13.5%
Drink 2024 -2040+
Bottle Price £884
100% Merlot
Average, ex vat bottle prices are taken from Wine-searcher.com
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Further information:-Masseto
Listen in to another brilliant 10-Minute Masterclass from Jasper Morris MW. In this episode, he looks at Chablis premiers crus and discusses its history, the different styles depending on which bank of the river you are on. Find out who he recommends, where to find value and the best up-and-coming producers.
Find out more at: wine-conversation.com
There are moments in life which stay with you forever, a crystal-clear picture that is so imprinted in your brain that it could have been yesterday. One such moment which stands out in my decades of visiting vineyards was standing in a pit at the Zuccardi winery in the Uco Valley in Argentina. Sebastian Zuccardi was showing me the soil structure, but I couldn’t help but look up – fluttering above us was a row of coloured ribbons stretching along a row of vines, at odd intervals, sometimes only a few feet apart; it looked as the vineyard had been festooned for a children’s tea party.
When I enquired whether the ribbons were there to scare off the birds Sebastian laughed and said that they were his markings for where the soil composition changed. I knew from earlier conversations that Sebastian was a passionate believer in terroir, but what I hadn’t realised was that he was a borderline fanatic.
So, it was wonderful to catch up with him on his last visit to London and taste his latest releases. He was keen to bring me up-to-speed. There are four revolutions going on in Argentina, he informed me. “The first is reality, everyone is talking about place, no producer is not explaining the place where the vineyard is. The level of knowledge of the different areas is growing a lot.”
The second revolution is the way limits are breaking, with more producers looking further north, further south, further east and higher in the mountains. This is not due to climate change, Sebastian points out, but pushing the expression of the wines.
There is also a style revolution, with an increase of diversity of styles – different expressions, and with over-oaked wines fading out. The fourth revolution is with the white wines. Argentina has always been known for its reds, but increasingly it is becoming known for its whites. “The closeness to the mountains offers unique conditions for white wines, we are mountain people” Sebastian says firmly.
It has been fascinating watching Sebastian’s rise. When I first met him, his charismatic father, José, had just given him the reins. “I was lucky my father gave me the freedom,” Sebastian says, and he has taken the winery – known for producing good-value wines – to one which excites the critics and is creating more and more excitement on the international market. His drive for quality and authentic expression has led him to produce some of South America’s most compelling wines. He reveals one major reason: “We like to work with white gloves, our interpretation needs to respect the interpretation of the place.”
His philosophy is firmly rooted, literally: “I am not looking for a perfect wine, I am looking for a wine that is of its place.” It was clear from the tasting that he is achieving his goal. Here are the new vintages about to be released on the market.
Sarah Kemp.
Wine Notes:-Fosil 2023The first vintage of this wine was 2016. I tasted it back then at Prowein, with Sebastian’s father, José, and I remember it clearly. It was the most impressive wine at the event, showing all the finesse of a great Chablis. The wine comes from the San Paolo Estancia area – it is the closest to the mountains, at 1400 metres altitude, 300 metres from the beginning of the mountain. It is the coldest area in the Uco Valley, with granite and calcaire soil, 100% Chardonnay aged in concrete vessels without malolactic fermentation. It has an aromatic citric aroma, with vibrant complex notes of lemon, lime, hints of mandarin and pink grapefruit. Purity, depth, beautiful ripeness and good attack, grip and concentration. Minerality shines through, very long and moreish, elegant and balanced. 13.0%
Botánico, Familia Zuccardi, 2023This wine comes from the Monasterio part of Gualtallary, the vineyard at 1360-1380 metres at the foot of the frontal range of the Andes. The soil is a compaction of calcaire, sand and gravel. 100% Chardonnay, it is aged in concrete vessels without malolactic fermentation. Rich, ripe expression of apricots and pink grapefruit. Lovely freshness and minerality driving through the wine. There is depth here and complexity. Vibrant and enticing. 13.5%
Aluvional Paraje San Paolo 2021The Paraje range of wines began in 2008, with the Aluvional series, marking the Zuccardis’ search for a particular identity of site in the Uco Vally. The Aluvinoal San Paolo comes from the IG San Pablo in Tunuyán in the Uco Valley. It is located at 1400 metres above sea level, and has a cold climate. 100% Malbec, the wine is fermented in concrete tanks with native yeasts, then aged in concrete tanks. It has a delightful uplifted spicy herb nose, very aromatic, on the palate there’s wild herbs, a direct expression of garrique, tight black fruit, with sauvage flavours, ripe and intense black fruit, slight bitterness, wonderful grip. Reminds me of Cornas, with its vibrancy and spice and herbs. Delicious. 14.0%
Aluvional Paraje Altamira 2021From the highest part of Altamira at 1100 metres above sea level. The soil is rich in stones from the alluvial fan with the rocks covered in calcareous material. 100% Malbec fermented in concrete and aged in concrete vessels. Inviting cocoa on nose, bags of energy, attack of blue fruit, round and generous, tightrope tension, freshness and arrows of acidity through, lots of layers, tannins holding everything in place, long and restrained power, delicious dark chocolate kick on the very long finish. 14.0%
Aluvional Gualtallary 2021From the area in Gualtallary known as Monasterio, this 100% Malbec is fermented in concrete vessels with native yeast and then aged in concrete. Aromatic mountain herbs on the nose. On the palate, it’s suave, with silky and brilliant crunchy black fruit, concentration and deep pool of swirling flavours, bite and grip, balance and drive, very textured, so long, powerful but refined, great expression of terroir. 14.0%
Finca Las Cuchillas San Pablo 2021Only 2,000 bottles are made of this 100% Chardonnay, whose vineyard is 600 metres away from the foot of the mountain. The word Cuchillas means blade. The soils is a thin layer of gravel covered with calcaire stones at approximately one-metre depth. The wine has an explosive aromatic nose, on the palate it’s rich, deep late-summer fruit, apricots and peaches, an elegant expression of limestone, citric mandarin notes, powerful and deep with piercing acidity, bags of energy, purity, will develop beautifully but hard to resist now. 13.0%
Finca Los Membrillos Semillon 2020The vines were planted in 2013, a massal selection from the original 1969 vineyard in La Consulta. The vineyard is at 1060 metres above sea level and is surrounded by quince trees. Semillon was the variety that the white wines of the Uco Valley were traditionally made from. The wine is 100% Semillon, fermented with native yeasts in untoasted French oak barrels and larger foudres. Sebastian explained that as Semillon loves oxygen, the foudre was ideal. The wine has a classic Semillon nose of sweet hay and chamomile. A true fine wine, understated and elegant, purity, a Renaissance tapestry of flavours, summer herbs mixed, toasted nuts, oiliness of a fresh almond and delicious fatness on the palate, but poised, with depth and layer upon layer of enticing fruit. Very long and driving power to end. Utterly intriguing. 13.0%
Finca Canal Uco 2021This was the first vineyard planted by the Zuccardi family in the alluvial soils of Alta Mira in the Uco Valley in 2007; 10,000 bottles are made, with 5,000 of them released on the Place de Bordeaux. 100% Malbec, 100% whole bunch, fermentation in concrete vessels with native yeasts, then aged in concrete vessels. Aromatics jump out of the glass: blue fruit, peonies, violets. On the palate, lyrical blue and red fruit, a whirlwind of flavours, layered, deep and complex with endless savoury surprises, hints of dark cocoa, very muscular and poised. Everything in balance, utter harmony. Terrific length. Hugely impressive. 14.5%
Finca Piedra Infinita 2021This Alta Mira vineyard is at 1100 metres in shallow soils where it is harvested according to a sequence of 12 soil types. 100% Malbec, fermented in concrete vessels with native yeasts and aged in concrete. Blue notes jumping out of the glass, the wine on the palate is very mineral-driven, intense black and blue currants, deep but very direct, palate packed with minerals, very linear and needs time to relax. 14.0%
Finca Las Cerrilladas Gualtallary 2021A brooding wine from the Monasterio hills, with the oldest soils in the Uco Valley. Las Carrilladas is from 30 separate parcels of the vineyard, surrounded by native vegetation. 100% Malbec, there are masses of power here, beautifully textured, with juicy, rich, meaty flavours, crunchy bright blue fruit, mountain herbs, all firmly gripped by fine tannins. This wine needs time, at the moment it is a revved-up robust teenager – everything there, but will reward with a few more years in the bottle. 14.1%
Finca Piedra Infinita Supercal 2021The 0.93 hectare plot which produces this wine in the northwest sector of the Piedra Infinita vineyard is surrounded by 30% natural vegetation – biodiversity thrives here. The soils are stony, with large granite rocks covered in calcareous material. 100% Malbec, fermented with native yeasts in concrete vessels. Peonies, aromatic nose, purity Jane Austen elegance, blue fruit, very precise, layers but gently revealing themselves, depth and complex layers, like going down a tunnel, to the sea, then waves of minerals lapping, slate, iodine, freshness, very marine, interpretation of an old sea bed. 14.0%
Finca Piedra Infinita Paraje Gravascal 2021The vineyard is planted at 1100 metres in the highest area of the alluvial fan of the Tunuyán River in Alta Mira. The wine originates from a small plot 0.73 hectares in the northwest part of the Piedra Infinta estate, where the Malbec grows on enormous gravels and granite rocks covered with calcareous material. 100% Malbec fermented with native yeasts in concrete vessels and then aged in concrete vessels. The wine has a warm, rich, inviting nose, delightful spice, bright energetic blue and red berry fruit, there is tightness and tension here and luminous purity. You can almost taste the limestone, fine chalky tannins and a very long finish. 14.0%
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Further information:-Zuccardi Wines
▻ Viva Argentina! – Part One
Wines Worth Talking About… Argentina
Philippe Guigal is the third generation of the illustrious Guigal wine family from the Rhône. He talks to Sarah Kemp for our series “Great Wine Lives” about growing up in Ampuis with his grandfather Etienne who started the company in 1946 and his father Marcel who took over at 17 years old when his father became blind. Philippe discusses the “La Las”, of which there is about to be a fourth, why he believes in the future of the Rhône despite climate change and his excitement about Château de Nalys in Châteauneuf-du-Pape which the family bought in 2017. He tastes every lunchtime with his father and he is delighted that his twin sons both are interested in wine, one wants to be an oenologist, the other wants to run a company. A fascinating interview with one of France’s most dynamic producers, whose family is at the heart of everything.
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John Stimpfig reports on how vintners are coping in the Bekaa Valley, Elin McCoy discusses the sale of Duckhorn Portfolio for 1.95 billion dollars, plus Weather Watch and North Hemisphere Harvest reports. We also report on the launch of Taittinger’s English Sparkling wine, Berry Brothers entering the auction world and the chance for all of us to buy a little bit of Burgundian history when the BIVB road signs go up for auction this November. This Omnibus is brought to you by our Founder Sponsor, Santa Rita Wine Estates.
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Join us for a 10-Minute Masterclass on Montalcino, home to the famous Brunello di Montalcino. Italian expert David Gleave MW guides us through the region’s diverse terroir and explains the different wine styles from north to south, where picking can differ by up-to 10 days. He recommends the top producers as well as his hot tips for producers to watch out for and where to find value. Unmissable listening for any wine lover.
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In our latest “Great Wine Lives” series Elin McCoy talks to Lenz Moser about how his curiosity took him from his family estate in Austria to China, California, Hungary and back to Austria to launch a new company based on Gruner Veltliner. Listen in to hear his views on Chinese wine and why he thinks the wine industry is losing consumers.
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Take a deep dive into Chile with our Founding Sponsor Santa Rita Estate’s viticulture manager, Gerardo Leal. Find out which regions he thinks suit which grape variety best, discover Santa Rita’s Estate’ new project in the south of Chile and why Maipo is still the most important region for Cabernet Sauvignon.
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Discover what makes Volnay so special with Jasper Morris MW in our latest 10-Minute Masterclass. Discover its history, its terroir, the vineyards to know, and Jasper’s tip for producers who are excellent value and still under the radar. Plus probably our best obscure fact to date. A must-listen for any Burgundy lover.
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A rare vertical tasting to celebrate Siepi’s 30th anniversary
The Siepi vineyard has been owned by the Mazzei family since 1435. It was listed among the properties of Madonna Smeralda Mazzei in an accounting document which is kept in the family archives at Castello di Fonterutoli. It is described as “a piece of land adjoining the house, with olive trees, vines and oaks.” Whilst it is part of the Fonterutoli estate, Siepi has always been managed as a single farm.
In 1985, Lapo Mazzei realised that the land would be perfect for Sangiovese and Merlot, and the first vintage of Siepi was born in 1992. To celebrate Siepi’s 30th anniversary of the first vintage, Giovanni Mazzei, the 25th generation and Lapo’s grandson, came to London to host a vertical tasting of ten vintages, a rare opportunity to see the evolution of the estate.
The vineyard is surrounded by dense woods, and faces south-southwest at 240-330 metres. The Sangiovese and Merlot vines are planted on Alberese limestone and Pliocene clay. The wines, Giovanni explained, are considered to lean more toward blue fruit than black or red, combining softness with power. Each plot is harvested individually, and there are between 14 to 20 vinifications during the vintage. In 2015, they introduced concrete vats, in a move to extract less. Regarding climate change, he notes happily that “the vineyard is evolving and adapting.”
Sarah Kemp.
Wine Notes:-Siepi 2007Highly perfumed nose, with hints of leather, rich powerful expression with bright blueberry fruit, very harmonious. Lovely savoury flavours with concentration, but arrow of delicious acidity driving through at a pace. Nice Sangiovese kick at finish. Very moreish. Long, with warmth and personality. 23,000 bottles produced with Merlot picked from August 30th and Sangiovese from September 22nd. 13.9%
Siepi 2010Still tight, still feels very young, lots of wonderful plums and bramble fruit, tannins firm, coiled, dark chocolate, not very aromatic on nose. Structured and vibrant, but needs to be let out of its cage. Lots of energy brooding. Merlot was hand-picked from September 16th and Sangiovese from October 8th. A great vintage, but this wine still needs time to be at its peak. 14.4%
Siepi 2013Hay on nose, Sangiovese dominating for now, powerful expression of mature ripe plums and blueberries, high acidity jumping through giving a great impression of vitality and freshness, a food wine, hazelnuts, almonds, fine tannins well integrated. Lovely expression of terroir. Long and elegant. Merlot picked from September 11th and Sangiovese from September 28th. Drinking beautifully now. 14.29%
Siepi 2015Peony floral nose, hedonistic aromatics rising from the glass. Beautiful entrance of refined but powerful red and black fruit dancing on the palate, depth, waves upon waves of sheer pleasure, silky tannins holding everything in place. Generous and gracious, totally complete, everything in perfect balance. Never-ending length. The harmony reminds me of an Italian Lafite. Outstanding, and my wine of the tasting. Merlot picked from September 8th, Sangiovese from September 23rd. 14.37%
Siepi 2016Quite aromatic floral nose, with hints of mint, powerful drive of complex black cherry fruit, still packed tightly, very spicy, lots of black pepper, steak juice, firm refined tannins, very serious Tuscan wine, which needs time. Elegance and power, like a Ferrari on the starting line, all there but still very contained. Merlot picked from September 10th and Sangiovese from 27th. 14.56%
Siepi 2018Enticing mineral driven nose, Bright burst of explosive red fruit and blue plums, great energy, spice, cocoa, intense powerful drive, very structured but needs time to uncoil. Merlot picked from September 12th and Sangiovese from September 22nd. 14.53%
Siepi 2019Lovely fresh nose, inviting, lots of intensity, dense layers of bramble fruit, plums and dried blackcurrants. Very young and needs time for the oak and the sheer mass of fruit to truly knit together. Merlot picked September 7th, Sangoivese from September 21st. 14.7%
Siepi 2020Fresh uplifted aromatic nose, inviting, stunning entrance of beautiful fresh blue and red fruit, terroir dominating, sensational flow of kaleidoscope of flavours, mint, sage, depth, lyrical waves, still young but very vibrant and muscular, stunning length, very juicy, silky tannins, savoury, creamy texture. Terroir wine personified. Merlot picked from September 7th, Sangiovese from September 21st. 14.5%
Siepi 2021Fresh blackberry nose, powerful and concentrated on the palate with black fruit intermingled with plums, dark chocolate, pepper, oak still present, needs time for the complex components to knit together. Merlot picked eptember 10th, Sangiovese from September 24th. 14.66%
Siepi 2022Inviting aromatic nose, complex powerful attack of ripe red and black, depth and concentration, cloves, spice, full-throttled, powerful and extraordinary length. Finely grained tannins gripping the dense fruit. Definitely one to cellar, with much pleasure to come. Merlot picked from September 5th and Sangiovese from September 17th. 14.5%
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Further information:-Mazzei: Siepi Toscana
Let’s Talk With… Marcheses Filippo and Francesco Mazzei
Let’s Talk With… Giovanni Mazzei – The Next Generation
How do you build a new wine empire? Michael Saunders, the man who co-founded Bibendum and spent 40-years building it into one of Britain’s most dynamic companies, talks to Sarah Kemp about Coterie Holdings, which he joined in January this year as its CEO. Coterie own Lay and Wheeler, Hallgarten and Novum Wines, Coterie Vaults, Europe’s largest bespoke wine warehouse, and Jera, a specialist lending platform which offers short-term loans secured against wine collections. What’s next for Coterie and what does it take to succeed in building a fine wine business? Listen in to find out.
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Listen in to Omnibus for all the latest wine news and views. This month we cover the fake wine scandal in Taiwan, the latest harvest reports, wine bankruptcies and latest winery sales, the launch of a non-profit foundation for promoting the enjoyment of aged wines, plus Elin heads to the Hamptons with “Sex and City” author Candace Bushnell to taste the latest Dom Pérignon.
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Davie Gleave MW takes a deep-dive into Italy’s most planted grape, Sangiovese. Discover where it grows best, where the grape originated from (spoiler alert, not Tuscany}, whether it can age, and why David believes it has a bright future.
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A rare vertical of Château Grillet with Libération Tardive
As Wine Conversation listeners and readers will no doubt appreciate, the rare opportunity to taste back vintages of the legendary Château Grillet is not one to be passed up. My invitation to this tasting at 67 Pall Mall in London earlier this summer, came from an intriguingly new, not-for-profit fine wine foundation called Libération Tardive, whose aims and objectives I heartily support. Namely to address the fact that older, mature fine wines are not getting the attention they deserve – and have not done so for a number of years.
As a result, the Libération Tardive Foundation has the lofty and laudible intention of reintroducing wine enthusiasts to the value and pleasures of well-aged wine. According to its key mover, shaker and founder Dominic Buckwell, “we especially want to emphasize the fact that well aged wines offer enhanced complexity, balance and enjoyment compared to their younger counterparts.” Quite right too, IMHO…
Buckwell, a former director of Wine GB and a long-time collector, has joined forces with other oenophile warriors, (including James Belton, David Pinchard and Christopher Burr MW) to promote this noble cause. In their view, the pendulum has swung much too far towards the focus on consumption of younger wines. Indeed, to such an extent that the enjoyment of great old wines is now potentially at risk.
Encouragingly, Buckwell and his fellow aficionados at Libération Tardive have put together a practical, well thought-out programme as to how it intends to go about changing this current mindset. In particular, it wants to support and collaborate with producers, merchants and auction houses who sell and trade mature wines. Ultimately, its goal is to preserve the art and enjoyment of well-aged wines for future generations.
All the wines for this tasting came from Buckwell’s private cellar and spanned Grillet’s ownership under the Neyret-Gachet family and Artémis Domaines, which acquired Grillet in 2010. As Dominic points out, “we could have begun with an evaluation of aged port, claret or vintage madeira. But we felt that a test-drive with Grillet would be a more interesting and unusual exercise for this exceptional dry white from Condrieu.”
Did it prove the point that great wines like Grillet can and do improve with age? According to my notes, it did so in spades.
John Stimpfig. (All prices are per bottle and are the in bond market rate.)
Wine Notes:-Château Grillet Côtes du Rhône 2018Introduced as the second wine of Grillet since 2011 from plots not quite good enough for the grand vin, this showed gorgeous peach and apricot notes mingled with spice. Approachable and attractive now with mineral notes and hints of white flowers, it is round and textured with a gentle unctuousness. Finishes well on a savoury flourish.
14%. 100% Viognier. RRP £120. Drink: 2024-2029
Château Grillet 2018Rich, peachy aromas. Fabulous weight and texture allied to a clean acidic thrust giving terrific mouthfeel. High-class, modern winemaking. Still young, so some puppy fat/oak still to shake off. Notes of lychee richness, lemon-oil, honey and buttered toast on the palate give way to a strong, dry, mineral, stone-fruit finish with a savoury bitterness at the very end. Very structured and concentrated at this premature stage. Needs more time to unfurl.
14%. 100% Viognier. RRP £300. Drink: 2028-2045
Château Grillet 2017More colour than the 18, this is both exotic and exuberant on the nose and palate with power, weight and ripeness. The broad, rich stone fruit gives way to spice and savoury oatmeal on the viscous mid-palate and a long bitter finish. Plenty to admire texturally and should age well.
15.5%. 100% Viognier. RRP £290. Drink: 2024-2040
Château Grillet 2016The 16 is a more restrained and elegant Grillet with a closed nose and some reductive struck flint notes at this stage. Gorgeous fruit comprising cream, honeydew melon, ripe peach and apricot with super balance between vibrant acidity and the fine silky structure. Very classy with fine oak integration. Still a long way to go before this reaches its peak.
14%. 100% Viognier. RRP £270. Drink: 2028-2045
Château Grillet 2015More evolved colour, leaning to pale straw. Oxidative notes on the nose and palate are overlaid by another rich and powerful Grillet from a warm vintage. Ripe fruits and honey work alongside savoury tertiary characteristics, soft acidity and an oily viscous mouthfeel with a smokey finish.
15.5%. 100% Viognier. RRP £270. Drink: 2024-2030
Château Grillet 2014Pale colour. Youthful fruit aromas of delicate ginger and apricot. An oily, firm, viscous palate with bright peach and pear fruit alongside honey, cream and white flowers. It’s an impeccably well-made, powerful, complex and compelling Grillet that will age effortlessy. Lots of acidity, extract, intensity and structure. Supremely balanced, this is set fair for the long haul.
14%. 100% Viognier. RRP £280. Drink: 2024-2040+
Château Grillet 2009Unsurprisingly, more straw on the colour and an attractive, tertiary oxidative nose, with a touch of hay. This leads onto the fabulous palate with stone fruits alongside tea, oatmeal and chamomile. Wonderful texture here, considerable complexity, balance and poise. Bone dry, savoury and long. Terrific now but will keep going.
14%. 100% Viognier. RRP £270. Drink: 2024-2032+
Château Grillet 2007Well into its teens, this delicious Grillet is ageing superbly. Lighter and tighter in style, it certainly doesn’t lack complexity and offers good primary fruit and perfume on the nose and palate with notes of lychee, stone fruit, honeysuckle and apricot. Bottle age has brought savoury depth, but the wine feels very vibrant and fresh at this stage, suggesting it still hasn’t reached its peak. Everything in balance too with good acidity, weight, presence and a long finish.
14%. 100% Viognier. RRP £250. Drink: 2024-2034+
Château Grillet 2006The 2006 Grillet is in remarkably fine fettle. Fresh fruit on the nose with a reductive hint, this is fine and elegantly rich. In the mouth, dried apricot and ripe nectarine, floral and savoury notes mingle effortlessly with a saline edge lead on to a smokey, sappy finish that lingers on the palate. Less structured and weighty than some Grillets, this is nonetheless classically complex, pleasing and long. It is also ageing beautifully.
14%. 100% Viognier. RRP £230. Drink: 2024-2034+
Château Grillet 2004Evolved straw colour. Similar in style and structure to the 2006, this showcases impressive freshness with tea leaf and hay on the nose. On the palate, it offers good minerality, dry herbs, oatmeal and stone fruits together with a distinct umami character. Both plush and fresh, it is drinking beautifully now.
14%. 100% Viognier. RRP £250. Drink: 2024-2034
Château Grillet 2001The oldest wine of the tasting was showing its age with a more honeyed colour in the glass, but belied its age on the palate. An oxidative nose is prominent as are savoury bottle age characters that are coming to the fore alongside gentle apricot, dry ginger and beeswax. And at just 13.5% this also felt like less of a heavyweight Grillet with less texture and higher acidity.
13.5%. 100% Viognier. RRP £270. Drink: 2024-2030
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Further information:-Libération Tardive
What is it like to run one of the world’s most prestigious wine estates? Listen in to hear Lorenzo Pasquini talk to Elin McCoy about his life as Estate Manager at Château d’Yquem. Lorenzo was born in Italy and dreamed of being a professional fencer, but wine beckoned after watching his father plant an estate. Lorenzo talks about his mentor Denis Dubourdieu, becoming the winemaker at Cheval des Andes at 26 years old, and how he could not turn down the ultimate golden wine job.
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Join world-expert Jasper Morris MW, author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy and the brilliant website www.insideburgundy.com, for his latest 10-minute Burgundy masterclass.
This month he is looking at the wines of Gevrey-Chambertin, famed for its nine grands crus. Discover its history, its terroir, the producers to look out for, and its one obscure fact. A deep dive into the famous appellation from the leading Burgundy expert.
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Join us for a brand new series of 10-Minute Masterclasses. We are thrilled that David Gleave MW, renowned Italian expert, will be sharing his extraordinary knowledge and insights on Italian wine. First we head to Tuscany for a deep dive into Chianti Classico. Discover its history, terroir, its best producers and David’s tips on which young producers to look out for. Bellissimo!
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Join world-expert Jasper Morris MW, author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy and the brilliant website www.insideburgundy.com, for his latest 10-minute Burgundy masterclass.
This month he is looking at the wines of the Mâconnais. Find out about its terroir, the different styles produced in the Mâconnais, the producers to look out for, and his great insider tip.
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***by Sarah Kemp***
I feel about Connoisseur Week the same as I do about Christmas Eve – sheer excitement, and wondering if the anticipation of what is ahead will live up to my high expectations, and more importantly, our guests. Jane Anson and I spend hours discussing the programme each year, trying to balance visiting the great estates with a few surprises, to be sure we’ll truly give a rounded and very personal picture of “our Bordeaux.” I’m happy to report that my expectations (and, happily, our guests’) were not only met, but well exceeded. How could they not be when you are dining at a rose-strewn table at Château Latour and then hosted by the incredibly charming Thomas Duroux at Château Palmer, both in one day, and another night dining in the most desirable kitchen in the Médoc at Château La Lagune with Jean-Guillaume Prats, drinking old vintages of Léoville-Las-Cases? Then, time to go home on those high notes? No, not with more fabulous memories to come, a vineyard tour and tasting at Château Lafleur followed by dining under the stars at Château L’Evangile, drinking an unbelievable 1961 vintage in magnum with Saskia de Rothschild and her talented team. More: On the penultimate day, meeting two wine legends, Peter Sisseck at Château Rocheyron and the original bad boy of Bordeaux, Jean-Luc Valandraud, who started the garagiste movement. At that point, I think our guests were wondering what the hell would happen on the last day. Well, we had a big surprise in store, courtesy of the magician of Bordeaux, none other than François Janoueix, who had invited us to his beautiful home by the river. A horse and trap took us to the chapel of Condat, built in the 11th century and beautifully restored, followed by oysters and wine and lunch in his orangerie, where we drank vintages of great wines back to 1947. It was as close to heaven as it is possible to get! It seemed fitting that the final memory after the Michelin-starred BBQ at Château Troplong Mondot was of a brass band parading out and playing as we left, music drifting magically into the night.
Jane Anson has full tasting notes on her site, www.janeanson.com, but here are some of my favourite memories and, of course, wines.
Château Léoville-Las-Cases – a tough first night deciding which wine was my favourite, the 1996 or the 1970. The 1996 had that library nose, cedar, graphite, cassis, power but perfect balance, very long and beguiling, a truly stunning beauty. The 1970 reminded me of how often we forget how good this vintage can be. The aromatics on the nose were astonishing, wave upon wave of youthful bramble fruit, masses of energy, so vibrant and young. A fabulous pair.
Château Latour – we were blessed with one of the most eloquent guides, Katherine Cross, who took us on a two-and-a-half-hour immersive tour of the vineyard and cellar. Highlight: seeing five ladies wearing hair-nets checking each and every cork, and not just for the grand vin, but right down to their third wine, Pauillac. There were 13 buckets to put the rejects in, each marked with a different fault. The attention to detail was extraordinary. Favourite wine? Château Latour 2004 – still seems young though 20 years old, bags of energy, muscular frame holding classical cassis and lead pencil, precise and utterly moreish.
Château Palmer – possibly my favourite food and wine combination of the week. A roast lobster, peas, olive oil with herbs and flowers from Palmer’s garden matched with a rare Vin Blanc de Château, made from Muscadellle, Loset and Sauvignon Gris. Richness met richness, but the streak of fresh acidity cut through, allowing both the dish and wine to work in harmony. The 1989 Château Palmer provided a dense core of mature loganberries, leather notes, very fine silky tannins, with long lip-smacking finish. The sunset wasn’t bad either!
Château Lafleur – if there is a more passionate person in Bordeaux than Ralista Todorieva in Bordeaux I’d like to meet them. Ralista is part of Lafleur’s small team, and my memory will be of a person who was fixated that we understood every vine and what it contributed to Lafleur: A masterclass in vineyard management. Difficult to pick out a favourite as, all so distinct, but if pushed I’d choose 2015 Château Lafleur, hugely aromatic on the nose, then a seductive intensity which builds and builds, rich note of dark chocolate, wild herbs, power and finesse here, delicious now but will last for years.
Château L’Evangile – a table under the tree laden with glasses, an Argentinian chef preparing an asado with the juiciest streaks and pork imaginable, smoke rising, the smell drifting across the vineyards. Saskia de Rothschild, Juliette Couderc and Olivier Trégoat showing us the vines, 17 treatments already for mildew in a wet, wet Spring. Then dinner on a long table under the stars. Wine of the night – Château L’Evangile 1961 from magnum, in two words, beyond beauty.
Château Rocheyron – meeting a personal hero of mine, Peter Sisseck, at his 8.45 hectares of St. Emilion’s limestone plateau. As ever, Peter was full of wisdom and dry humour. Favourite wine? Hard again, so much to love but the 2016 was glorious, rich, dense core of vibrant blue and red fruit, very fine tannins, extraordinary length, power and finesse combined.
Château Valandraud – Friday night seemed to be a great night to meet the original Bad Boy of Bordeaux, Jean-Luc Thunevin with his charming wife, Murielle Andraud. First, though, a stop to where it all started in the garage in down St Emilion, before heading to the impressive château with one of the best views in St Emilion. We were all held spellbound as he talked emotionally about how he had nearly gone bankrupt and how supportive his wife had been. Favourite wine, the 2009, rich powerful core of plush fruit, great tension, layers of dark chocolate and forest herbs. Opening up in the glass, so just getting better and better, long saline finish. Delicious.
A day with François Janoueix – my strongest memory is the huge and consistent smile on François Janoueix ‘s face as he enjoyed seeing the reaction to the stunning array of great wines he produced from his cellar to celebrate each of our guest’s birth years. One guest decided he would book two spots next year, but his companion would have to be born in 1959 or 1982. The maxim of Len Evans that there are no great wines, only great bottles, was never truer. Haut Brion 1963 and 1976 Haut Bailly were not in good form, leaving the stars to be Château Bouscaut 1947, closely followed by Château La Fleur-Pétrus 1960. The 1947 had an extraordinary perfumed nose, the fruit still firm, beautiful sous-bois flavours with the silkiest of silky tannins, wave after wave of Bordeaux magic. Simply stunning. So much so, it was hard to move on. The 1955 Pichon Baron came next and was slightly overshadowed, whereas the La Fleur-Pétrus challenged the Bouscaut, with its sweet briar fruit, still fresh, with extraordinary power driving through to the final note. As a general observation, the wines from the 1970s didn’t hold up to the vintages from the 1960s, with my third favourite Château Belair 1964. A visit to the 11th century chapel at Condat, one of the great jewels of Bordeaux, which I had not visited before, completed the day. Blessed all round.
The Connoisseur Week is hosted by Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp.
For information on future Connoisseur Weeks with Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp write to hello@janeanson.com.
The 2025 Connoisseur Week takes place on 3rd-8th June 2025.
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Listen in to this month’s Omnibus for all the latest wine news and views from around the world. Who were the winners and losers in the Bordeaux 2023 campaign? Which major US vineyard has been sold and to whom? Which wine regions have suffered from floods, hail and drought and what does that mean for this year’s harvest? Plus Elin McCoy travels to Bordeaux and discusses the new projects including the planting of a vineyard of the future. Plus John Stimpfig on weather watch and much, much more.
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The Australian Ark is one of the most important wine books to have been published not just this year, but any year. Jane Anson talks to its author Andrew Caillard MW, who spent 18 years researching it. Listen in to hear about his incredible life and how he came to write this magnum opus. Unmissable.
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Sacha Lichine, the “godfather of rosé” talks to Jane Anson for our series “Great Wine Lives”. Son of Alexis Lichine, one of the most prominent 20th century wine figures, Sacha grew up at Château Prieuré-Lichine in Bordeaux, and drove tractors before he could drive. He talks about how he came to move to Provence, working with Patrick Leon, the previous Technical Director of Château Mouton Rothschild, and setting out to make a serious rosé. Today Whispering Angel is a phenomenal success, loved by celebrities, including Adele, who famously said it was the first thing she wanted to buy along with tomato ketchup after lockdown. Listen in to hear his fascinating story.
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Sebastián Labbé, Chief Winemaker for Santa Rita premium wines, talks about the 2024 harvest in Chile. Find out which regions he believed were outstanding, and why he is a fan of Carménère, which he is picking earlier and fine-tuning for more freshness. 21 minutes to get up-to-speed with 2024 Chile, courtesy of our Founder Sponsor, Santa Rita Estates.
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Join us for a 10-minute masterclass on understanding the Burgundy trade with leading Burgundy authority Jasper Morris MW, author of the award-winning book “Inside Burgundy”. Discover how the system works, the role of domaines, negociants and co-operatives, and importantly where Jasper believes you can still find value.
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The German Air Force’s 1943 map of the Medoc was used to create the base material for the Bordeaux Wine Atlas map. One of the fascinating facts in a special podcast on how wine maps are created with wine map guru Chris Foulkes. Chris has arguably more experience in creating wine maps than anyone. He oversaw the 3rd edition of the World Atlas of Wine, published the Bordeaux Atlas and recently Inside Burgundy by Jasper Morris MW and Inside Bordeaux by Jane Anson. Listen in to hear his stories about the challenges he faced in creating the maps, how before Google Earth he employed a young man with a bicycle to travel around the Medoc to check estate boundaries, the deliberate errors inserted to avoid copyright theft, and much more. His latest venture is publishing a special edition print of Jane Anson’s map which for the first time shows the terroir and the position of the chateau, recently launched on her site www.janeanson.com. You will never look at a wine map in the same way again!
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As Jane Anson finishes her report on the 2023 Bordeaux vintage she talks to Sarah Kemp about her impressions after tasting over 800 wines. She advises which appellations did well, how it compares to previous vintages, and names the châteaux she believes will offer value for money. Find out which wine she would buy, money no object, and why. Sarah was delighted. Jane’s report is released on May 2nd and she is offering a 10% discount during En Primeur. Listen in to get up-to-speed with a vintage Bordeaux lovers will love.
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News and views aplenty in this month’s Omnibus, good, bad and damn frightening. Elin McCoy finds there is great wine, food and art at Château La Coste in Provence (currently showing 85 of Damien Hirst’s works), reviews the new releases from Champagne Bollinger, and discusses the new Mouton Cadet range designed for Gen Z with Philippe Sereys de Rothschild. Over in Macau Jane Anson judges the new Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards and reveals the winner. It’s April so inevitably John Stimpfig and Sarah Kemp are talking about the Bordeaux En Primeur campaign, with the perennial question, what price will the châteaux release at. The good news is that the tariffs have been lifted on Australian wine into China and the Old Vine Conference has announced their Hero awards. The frightening news is that a report has come out predicting 29% of vineyards will not be able to produce premium wine by the end of the century. Great news for charity though, John Stimpfig is back on his bike to raise money for the Hospitality Industry, a 200km bike ride across Burgundy, but before then there is a Gala Dinner in London. Listen in to hear all about it. This Omnibus is brought to you by our Founder Sponsor, Santa Rita Wine Estates.
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The first report on the 2023 Bordeaux vintage from Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp. Sarah joined Jane for her second week of tasting, and found much to love “I felt a lot of these wines, not all, were what made me fall in love with Bordeaux. It’s the vintage I will buy my son to remind him why I loved Bordeaux and was away so often”. They discuss the factors which shaped the wines, with mildew and the question of whether to strip the leaves and risk burning the grapes a major decision. Yields, economic conditions, appellation success – a full discussion after a week of long days travelling round Bordeaux putting together the jigsaw puzzle of understanding the latest vintage. Jane will produce her full report for subscribers on May 2nd. For listeners who are not subscribers, there is a Flash sale, to be taken up by April 25! Please use the following discount code on a yearly subscription to start your 7-day free trial, at www.janeanson.com/subscribe: TRYJAIB24
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Jasper Morris MW, today’s leading Burgundy expert and author of the award-winning book “Inside Burgundy”, conducts a 10-Minute Masterclass on St-Aubin, the fourth great white Burgundy village. Jasper discusses its terroir, the best vintages to look out for, its renowned names and the one producer that is up and coming. For wine lovers, there is the added bonus that it still offers value for money.
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7 minutes on the weather conditions that have formed the 2023 vintage from Bordeaux expert Jane Anson. As the En Primeur tastings get into full swing Jane looks at the difference in yields, the problem mildew caused for some producers “Just 5 % of mildew in a tank can make the difference to the taste”. Listen in to the first of our En Primeur podcasts and get up-to-date with Bordeaux’s 2023 vintage.
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Drunk by hedonists, made by masochists, Sauternes is one of the world’s greatest fine wines. Join Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp for a 10-minute masterclass as they discuss this renowned appellation. Find out the difference between Sauternes and Barsac, why it is in decline after being one of the most-sought after wines in the world. Discover the new dry styles being produced, the new upcoming producers and why there is a new demand for Sauternes barrels from spirit producers.
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Listen in to Omnibus XXVIII for all the latest wine news and views. John Stimpfig looks at a mysterious sabotage at the Pepa 21 winery in Ribera del Duero, and recounts that winery sabotage is not unknown. The latest court case in Bordeaux is causing shock waves, Ginestet and Cordier have been ordered to pay a Medoc grower under the relatively new Egalim Law for offering abusively low prices, as a result there is complete paralysis on the Bordeaux bulk market. Weather watch makes grim listening with hail in Argentina, wild fires in Chile and a deep frost in British Columbia, which has wiped out the harvest. Happier news from Elin who reports on the DRC 2021 tasting in New York, and discusses the new Millesima wine store, a destination for wine lovers. More good news for wine lovers as the Premiere Napa Valley auction lots, which were bought by the trade, are now listed on their site, allowing collectors to track down rare parcels. George and Amal Clooney are about to release their first wines, watch this space….
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Listen in to our brand new series of 10-Minute Masterclasses on Burgundy with Jasper Morris MW, the world-leading Burgundy authority and author of the award-winning book Inside Burgundy. First in the series is a look at Nuits-St-Georges. Find out about its terroir, where to find value for money and much more. Jasper, whose subscription website www.insideburgundy.com is essential reading for any serious Burgundy lover, believes the appellation deserves more attention, tune in and discover why. 10-minutes of brilliant and entertaining wisdom.
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Gary Boom of Bordeaux Index talks to Sarah Kemp in our series “Great Wine Lives”. Listen in to discover how he left South Africa as a beer drinker and ended up falling in love with wine and building one of the world’s largest fine wine companies. He talks about his successes and failures, opening an office in Hong Kong a year before the duty was abolished, why he expanded the company’s portfolio to include spirits, and much more. He has just relaunched Live Trade, the wine trading platform, now open to anyone who wishes to sell their wine. A fascinating interview with the outsider who is now seen as part of the fine wine establishment.
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Join us for a “10-minute masterclass” on Cabernet Franc. Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp take a deep dive into Bordeaux’s oldest grape. Discover where it is grown (spoiler alert – China has more than you think), find out which famous varieties it parented and why there is concern about clonal diversity. Find out Jane’s recommended producers and be ready for her obscure facts – including which vintage of Cheval Blanc is 98% Cabernet Franc.
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Giampiero Bertolini, the CEO of Biondi Santi talks to Sarah Kemp about Italy’s iconic estate. He discusses its history and reveals the new developments in the vineyard since it was bought by the EPI Group (owners of Charles and Piper Heidsieck) in 2017. Find out how the tennis court has been turned into an experimental nursery with different mother clones, how Pedro Parra came over to map the soil and the new vinification by parcel. As he releases the famed Riserva Storica 1988 and 2010, he says “It’s evolution, not revolution”.
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Sarah Kemp meets Marcheses Francesco and Marchese Filippo Mazzei of Castello di Fonterutoli, who have 600 years of winemaking history in the family. As their Super Tuscan “Concerto di Fonterutoli” celebrates its 40th anniversary, they discuss Tuscany’s quality revolution. Listen in to hear about the changes they made in the vineyard and cellar, and the new generation of wine lovers and sommeliers who are putting Tuscany firmly on collectors’ map.
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Join us for our 10-Minute Masterclass on Pessac-Léognan with Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp. Discover the appellation’s history, price per hectare, its classified growths, its terroir and its most famous châteaux. A deep dive into one of Jane’s and Sarah’s favourite appellations.
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*Isole e Olena Estate Director Emanuele Reolon*
On a cold, windy February night, Emanuele Reolon met Britain’s wine press for the first time in his new role of Estate Director of Isole e Olena. David Gleave MW, of Liberty Wine renown, who had been the first person to import Isole e Olena back in the 1980s, had ensured smooth sailing by holding the dinner at The River Café, where the menu would complement the wines with authentic Tuscan flair. Reolon is in his early forties, and has worked in Chianti as well as Romania. He told me that he spoke to Paolo de Marchi, who sold the winery to the EPI Group (which also owns Champagne Charles Heidsieck and Biondi-Santi) every day. He was astounded by Paolo’s generosity: “He could have just walked away,” he said.
Reolon has an easy, open, almost boyish charm, and is thrilled to have landed at one of Italy’s most acclaimed estates – his enthusiasm and love of the property radiated around the room. The release of the latest vintage was the focus of the evening; older vintages were also shown, to demonstrate the ability of the wines to age. I will continue to bang the drum that Chianti is currently offering wine lovers the best value for money in the fine-wine market, and here is more proof. After all the work done by the Consorzio 20 years ago in recommending new clones, trellising, spacing, and better viticultural practices, the changes made are now showing in the glass. Paolo de Marchi helped lead the movement of Chianti from taverna wine to fine wine for collectors, and it was heartening to meet Emanuele, who is enthusiastically taking up the baton and continuing his great work. The three releases below were Paolo’s last vintages.
Wine Notes:- Isole e Olena “Collezione Privata” Chardonnay 2022
I am a big fan of Isole e Olena’s chardonnays (see previous tasting notes), which match top Burgundies for complexity and subtlety, but have a distinct Tuscan profile. The 2022 did not disappoint. White flowers on the nose, the palate has a wonderful rich, powerful, energetic expression – lots of citrus zest balances the core of stone fruit, slightly tight at moment, so will reward patience either in the cellar or in the glass.
**Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2021**
In terms of value for money, it is hard to beat Isole e Olena’s Chianti Classico. The 2021 release has all the bright, Bing cherries and spice you want from a great Chianti. Wonderful grip, with a focused intensity, meaty essence, and slight hint of fresh mushrooms. There is great freshness and energy in this wine. Still slightly tight on the finish, but has the potential to be one of the great vintages for cellaring.
**Cepparello 2021**
The first vintage of Cepparello was 1980, and the Sangiovese grapes come from the best sites on the estate. The nose intrigues with its fragrance and spice, while on the palate there is concentration and richness, a core of red fruit, luscious damson plums and cherries, and delicious refreshing acidity, which seems to get more intense as it coats the mouth. Power and elegance perfectly combined. Still tight on the finish, but definitely one to keep to watch and enjoy its magnificent core of fruit unfold.
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Further information:-www.libertywines.co.uk
Listen in to Omnibus XXVII to hear John Stimpfig and Elin McCoy’s predictions for the main wine trends in 2024. As usual, news aplenty including France’s reaction to Dry January (Spoiler alert – Alain Ducasse reduced the price of his top Bordeaux and Burgundy to encourage people to drink more), the new ingredient labelling required for wines marketed in the EU, reaction to the Burgundy 2022 campaign, Naples Charity Wine Auction raises over US$ 33 million dollars and much more. For those in the freezing northern hemisphere, Elin has researched the new luxury wine experiences in Chile – find out where she recommends wine lovers should go and how she found her night in the room entitle “Shape of Women”.
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Celebrated but not classified, Château Siran is one of Margaux’s most loved properties. Elin McCoy talks to Edouard Miailhe, the 6th generation of his family to run the estate for our series “Great Wine Lives”. Listen in to hear how he returned from the Philippines to take over from his parents, and how friends knew before he did that he would return as they saw Siran was in his DNA. Edouard recounts many anecdotes, including why the property was not classified (spoiler alert – the previous owner was a royalist and didn’t like Napoleon 111 who organised the 1855 Exposition de Paris) and how he heard that there was a restaurant in the Napa Valley with an extraordinary list of old vintages of Siran – it turned out the owner had bought the authentic Rudi Kurniawan cellar. A great interview with the man whose heart is firmly in the Margaux appellation.
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600 years of winemaking runs through the blood of Giovanni Mazzei, son of Marchese Filippo Mazzei of Castello di Fonterutoli. Sarah talks to him for our Next Generation series about his life with his wife and three young boys at the Il Caggio estate where he runs Ipsus, the wine he wants recognised as the finest Sangiovese in Italy. “I wasn’t sure I was given the responsibility, I asked for it” he tells Sarah as he describes why he believes that the Sangiovese at the Il Caggio estate is second to known. A fascinating interview with one of Italy’s most dynamic and passionate personalities.
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What is the next thing for wine collectors should look out for? Nick Pegna, the new head of Sotheby’s wine and spirits, talks to Elin McCoy about the fine wine and spirit market. He reminisces about his early days in the wine trade, where he started out as a shop assistant at Lea and Sandeman before going on to join the newly formed Berry Brothers and Rudd’s broking department. He discusses setting up the Berry Brothers’ Hong Kong office with chairman Simon Berry and how he watched the interest in fine wine in Asia explode. 100 days into his new job he reveals some of his plans for the future and predicts the areas he thinks are worth investing in.
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Elin McCoy talks to Jean-Charles Boisset, the audacious Burgundian vintner who shook up the US wine scene. Listen in to hear how he bought some of California’s most historic wineries, his pioneering work in organic an biodynamic viticulture. Discover his passion for innovation as he discusses satin and leather labels, jewellery on bottles, and why his wines are backed up by high-scores from critics “Transporting people into a different world is what I am about” A fascinating interview with the wine world’s most innovative vintner.
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In a few days’ time the doors of The Gavroche will close for the last time. Jane Anson talks to Michel Roux Jnr about his legendary restaurant and its amazing cellar of 100,000 bottles. Listen in to find out what is going to become of the cellar and find out which wine Michel has chosen to drink on the last day. A huge thank you to Michel for all the fabulous memories you have given us at The Gavroche – some of our happiest days.
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In our last Omnibus for 2023, John Stimpfig, Elin McCoy and Sarah Kemp discuss the big news stories: how war is affecting Israeli and Palestine vintners, that terroir has been scientifically proven and worldwide production falling by 7% with 2023, the hottest year on record. Plus, Italy becomes the star of the wine investment market, Elin’s top 10 wines and much more.
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Hope. The most important word this Christmas. Sarah Kemp talks to Mariia Didkovska in Kyiv about the champagne she has created with the House of Pierre Morlet called “Victoire de la Dignité” with six of Ukraine’s most prominent artists designing the labels. All profits from the sales will go to the urgent needs of the Military Clinical Hospital of the Ministry of Defense of Ukraine and its mobile military hospitals. She discusses life in Kyiv, how the project came about, and her hopes for the future. The wines are for sale internationally.
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Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp discuss their favourite books on Bordeaux. They recommend the best books on Bordeaux’s history and politics and economics. Bordeaux reference books come under review, old favourites and brilliant new editions. Find out which Bordeaux producers provided material for the most scintillating biographies and let’s not forget the novels every claret lover should read. Plus, Sarah reveals the Bordeaux book she has requested to be buried with. How many of the books mentioned do you have on your bookshelf?
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Listen in to hear the remarkable “Great Wine Life” of Francesco Ricasoli of Castello di Brolio. Possibly, the most heart-warming wine story we have covered this year. He gave us his life as a professional photographer where his clients included Salavatore Ferragmo and Valentino, to return to the family estate to buy it back from Hardy’s the Australian corporate giant (his father had previously sold the winery and brand to Seagrams in the 1960s, who then sold it onto Hardy’s). For the last thirty years he has worked tirelessly in the vineyards and cellars to take back the estate’s reputation to its former glory. He tells Sarah Kemp how to begin with it was about survival, but early on he studied the soil, put a great team together and they today make some of Italy’s most elegant and beautiful wines. A story of one man’s determination to honour his family’s history and create some of Italy’s finest wines.
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Join us for a “10-minute masterclass” on Merlot. Find out about this grape which was much maligned by Miles in the film Sideways. We look at its parentage, where it is planted, its flavours, famous names and the Merlots which Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp believe are worth seeking out.
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Every wine region has its golden moment, a time when the stars align, into full brightness, and possibilities flourish. It most often occurs when a group of individuals collectively raise the bar.Bordeaux’s golden era was the 1980s, based on the groundwork of Emile Peynaud, whose knowledge was taken up by some of the wine world’s most charismatic characters, including Jean-Michel Cazes, Anthony Barton, Christian Moueix, May-Eliane de Lencquesaing, a young Corinne Mentzelopolous, Olivier Bernard, Baron Eric de Rothschild. They produced a movement which excited wine lovers and began to transform the wine scene into the dynamic fine-wine world we know today. In the 1990s, it was Burgundy’s turn – Claude and Lydia Bourguignon drew attention to the soil, and Christophe Roumier, Jacques Seysses and Aubert de Villaine amongst others not only raised the bar, but jumped high over it. Today, I believe, it’s Tuscany’s golden turn, based on the same fundamental ingredients: Open-minded research in the vineyards, a reassessment of long-held assumptions, and a group of committed, talented winemakers responding to the myriad new possibilities.
This Tuscan wine renaissance began with the Chianti Classico 2000 project, which was conceived in the late 1980s, where everything in the vineyard was reassessed – clones, training systems, rootstock, plant density, soil management–altogether,16 years of research in collaboration with the Universities of Florence and Pisa. Today, the results are evident in the glass, with Sangiovese taking a starring role, something it was not always able to do back before 2000. Tuscany has also been blessed with a series of brilliant and committed winemakers who seized upon the research and revitalised their vineyards. One of the great natural advantages Tuscany has, especially in Chianti, is the natural woodland which surrounds and intersects the vineyards; for example, at Isole e Olena there are no contiguous vineyards, each vineyard is surrounded by trees, creating a series of subtly different ecosystems, and the beneficial results of this interplay are revealed in the glass. Now, as the rest of the world is waking up to the need for biodiversity (Cheval Blanc in Bordeaux and Harlan Estate in California are planting trees amongst their vines), Chianti is already ahead.
I recently spent a week visiting some of the region’s best-known and highly regarded producers, discovering how the standard has been elevated, and how exhilarating the vivacity and freshness of these wines can be. I have rarely returned from a region more excited. Winemakers like Paolo de Marchi, the Mazzei family, Carlo Ferrini (who was deeply involved with the original research), Francesco Ricasoli – on a one-man mission to rescue his historic estate and return it to its former glory – all are giving us wine lovers reasons to celebrate. This indeed is their time.
Probably the biggest difference from 20 years ago is the work that has been done on understanding their main grape, Sangiovese, whose fortunes have wavered considerably over time, including with its partnerships. And though there are some people who have railed against the use of international varieties, the “Super Tuscans” brought a welcome spotlight to the region, and money, at a time when Chianti’s reputation was that of a wine to be drunk with pizza or pasta in a local trattoria. Some of my favourite wines during my week’s tasting have a percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, and I believe they have a rightful place in the hills of Tuscany, which makes it all the more puzzling as to why the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione rules restrict blends to 90% Sangiovese, and 10% native Italian varieties. It is easy to be an ideological purist about wine, but surely the thing that matters most is what is in our glass? There is no doubt that the Gran Selezione classification has brought more interest in top Chianti, but there are more discoveries from more sources in these hills waiting for wine lovers. Chardonnay from Italy, do we need it? Yes, is my answer if it is made by Paolo de Marchi or Barone Ricasoli; 100% Merlot? Yes, if it is Barone Ricasoli Casalferro (which has no mention of the varietal on the label). Best of all, these wines are still great value in fine-wine terms, with many of them under £50.
Here is a selection of my star buys:- Isole e Olena
Cepparello 2020In 1980, Paolo de Marchi made his first 100% Sangiovese, “Cepparello,” after tagging the Sangiovese vines in his vineyards which consistently delivered the most flavour. His contribution to Tuscany and Italy cannot be overstated. He leaves the estate at the end of the year, leaving his legacy alive in the multitude of beautiful bottles he has given his life to.
Seductive, highly perfumed nose drawing you into the glass. Layer upon layer of rich crunchy cherries, waves of plums, spice and cocoa, velvet tannins holding everything in place. Importer: Liberty Wines
Isole e Olena Chardonnay 2021From just 5.6 hectares, this Chardonnay has a cult following; no wonder, it has the purity of a top Chablis with green-apple crispness, slate minerality, beautiful creamy texture coating the palate, very long and fine. Importer: Liberty Wines
**Castello di Fonterutoli**
The Mazzei family have been in Tuscany for six centuries. Today the estate is run by brothers Fillipo and Francesco Mazzei, with “Ipsus,” their new estate, run by Fillipo’s son Giovanni. The entire estate is 650 hectares in total, with 110 hectares planted to vines plus 6.5 hectares specially for Ipsus. They have just celebrated 40 years of “Concerto,” one of the first Super Tuscans, which has produced 22 vintages from Alberese soil. I enjoyed a stunning vertical, with each and every wine a choice I would like in my cellar, but these two heartbreakers stood out, and demonstrate why I believe that Chianti is one of the most exciting value for money fine-wine regions in the world at this moment in time.
Concerto di Fonterutoli 2015, Toscana IGTGlorious floral perfumed nose, 80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, red and black fruit dancing across the palate, woodland herb, deep core of fresh vibrant fruit, everything controlled and in balance, savoury and moreish, an elegant seduction of the senses, superb. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines
Concerto di Fonterutoli 2019, Toscana IGTI don’t give points, but if I did there would hardly be enough for this wine, and at the price it is a total steal. Hints of coffee on the nose, then an outstanding core of wave upon wave of sensuous red and black fruit, coffee, mint, so juicy and generous, but there is precision here too. The energy in this wine is extraordinary, one of my wines of the year. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines; Stockist: Hedonism £49.80
**Ipsus**
I made sure I had a double espresso before meeting Giovanni Mazzei in order to keep up with his boundless energy. Giovanni’s main passion is “Ipsus,” which comes from the Il Caggio property, which until the Marchesi Mazzei family bought it in 2006 had not been under vine. Giovanni Mazzei was struck by the full character of the wine that was made when they planted the area, and moved his young family to the property, which is situated in what has to be one of the most beautiful spots in Tuscany, with a 360-degree panoramic view of the landscape. All his energy and ambition is going into making Tuscany’s finest wine; the first vintage was 2015, and already it has become a true collector’s item.
Ipsus 2019, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCGRich aromatic forest fruit jumps out of the glass, a generous explosion of opulent red fruit and velvet tannins – this is a dramatic wine full of tension and energy. A wonderful savoury finish, exciting. Stockists: Corney and Barrow, Honest Grapes
Ipsus 2018, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG100% Sangiovese, beautiful uplifted rose petals on the nose, luminous crimson colour, the silkiest tannins imaginable, a core of firm fresh redcurrants underpinned by a layer of deepest dark chocolate. There is clear mint freshness to the wine, but the overall impression is a wine of tension and precision, a tightrope walker, very pure, very long, and very moreish. Stockists: Petersham Cellars, Honest Grapes
**Barone Ricasoli**
The Brolio Castle owned by Francesco Ricasoli is one of the potent symbols of Chianti, first documented in the family papers in 1141. Francesco Ricasoli gave up his career as a professional photographer to run the estate in 1993 and has spent the last 30 years returning the estate to its former glory (it had been sold off to Seagrams and then Hardy’s). Today, it is making some of Chianti’s finest wines.
Barone Ricasoli Torricella Chardonnay 2021This wine was a wonderful surprise and must be one of today’s star buys at around £20 a bottle. Mid-gold in colour, purity and precision on the palate, firm core of white flowers, citric notes, harmonious and very elegant. Lovely minerality, satin texture, long and intriguing. Stockists: Vinvm, Partridges of Sloane Square, Simply Wines Direct £23.99
Barone Ricasoli Colledilà 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, BrolioEnticing, seductive nose of perfumed musk rose, 100% Sangiovese on limestone soil, beautiful pure red fruit, with layers of minerals, hint of liquorish, silky tannins wrapping sinuously around the fruit. Elegant, long and mesmerising. Stockists: Cru London, St Swithins Wine Shippers £49.99
Barone Ricasoli Colledilà 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, BrolioThis is an exceptional wine, from an exceptional vineyard. Nose of intoxicating irises, subtle and intriguing. The 2020 vintage has a core of vertical red and black fruit, with an arrow of acidity driving through it. Dark chocolates, woodland herbs, all add to this powerful but controlled and layered wine. It is a wine which has intent, there is huge energy but precision balance too, like a Ferrari on the starting line. Stunning. Importer: John E Fells; Stockist: Cru London £69.99
Barone Ricasoli Castello di Brolio 2020 Gran SelezioneFrom sandstone and limestone soils at a height of 400-500 metres, the Castello di Brolio has a nose of wild strawberries lifting out of the glass. Tastes of strawberries and redcurrants cut with blackberries, extremely generous, a total celebration of lively fresh fruit, with satin tannins, like attending a house party dressed in velvet. Importer: John E Fells; Stockist: Cru London £59.99
Barone Ricasoli Casalferro 2019This 100% Merlot has the Ricasoli’s hallmark of purity, direction and precision. From a vineyard of limestone and sandstone, fragrant nose, with wild cherries and plums on the palate, Tuscan spice, very fresh and hedonistic, great grip and controlled energy. Delicious savoury finish. Stockists: Crump Richmond Shaw, Cru London £69.99
**Giodo**
Carlo Ferrini is one of the most admired and respected consultants anywhere. In 2001, he found an ideal 6 hectares and started making his own wine, along with his daughter Bianca. He has channelled all his years of experience and understanding into his own wine, which clearly demonstrate his intimate understanding of the beauty of the Sangiovese grape.
La Quinta Podere Giodo di Carlo Ferrini 2021 IGTI am a huge fan of Carlo Ferrini, who has done so much to raise the reputation of Chianti. Giodo is his own small property, which he runs with his daughter Bianca. La Quinta comes from vineyards close to the cellar, from 7-year-old vines. Carlo, who must have more experience with clones than most people, has chosen 8 for the composition of La Quinta. Highly perfumed nose of wild roses, fresh crunchy red forest fruit, dark cherries, mint, silky tannins beautifully integrated, very fresh and very pure. Importer: Lea and Sandeman
Giodo Brunello di Montalcino 2019Very floral bouquet, on the palate an explosion of sweet juicy blue and red fruit, depth and concentration, coffee, dark chocolate, firm tannins holding all in place. A wine with a clear sense of place. Importer: Lea and Sandeman
**Biondi-Santi**
Biondi-Santi has been a symbol of classic Brunello, and is one of Italy’s most sought-after wines. Today, it is owned by the EPI group (who also own Charles Heidsieck and Isole e Olena). They are putting considerable investment into the estate, reminding me of the great line in Lampedusa’s “The Leopard” – “For things to remain the same, everything must change.” Exciting times for this great estate.
Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Reserva 2010Made from vines more than 25 years old, it has a seductive floral nose, very perfumed with irises and peonies. Deep firm core of lively red fruit and Victoria plums, fresh mushrooms, bark, very layered cashmere tannins, extremely fine and elegant. Importer: Liberty Wine Stockist: Berry Brothers and Rudd
Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Reserva 1988The words “utterly gorgeous” should suffice. An outstanding Biondi-Santi, truffles on the nose, an exuberant explosion of lovely woodland fruit, truffles and fresh mushrooms, a streak of acidity running through like an arrow, silky fine tannins, but the overall impression is a wine of harmony and exquisite balance. Importer: Liberty Wines to be released Spring 2024
**Bertinga**
The owners bought the three vineyards in Gaiole in Chianti from Castello di Ama. Though it’s a relatively new winery, they are focused on the individual expression of each vineyard. A winery to watch.
Bertinga Sassi Chuisi Toscana IGT 2018This is their second vin, Bertinga, Toscana IGT being their flagship wine. 85% Sangiovese-15% Merlot. This shows delicious bright crunchy redcurrants, gently extracted, good attack and balance, very drinkable and moreish. 25,000 bottles and released later as they believe it needs time to show its true character. Not imported to the UK currently
**Tenuta di Ghizzano**
If dogs take after their owners, do wineries reflect theirs? It certainly seems so at Tenuta di Ghizzano, where the delightful Ginerva Venerosi Pescolini beats her own drum with her biodynamic wines. All her wines have distinct personalities – they demand attention. Based in a beautiful bowl of hills south-east of Pisa, the estate has been in her family since 1370. Today 20 hectares are planted to vines, and 20 more to olives.
Tenuta di Ghizzano, Nambrot 2019 A blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 20% Petit Verdot; 18 months in barrique, 12 months in bottle
Mid-ruby colour, a whiff of forest berries and cigar box on the nose, on the palate a firm grip of blackcurrants, fresh mint, plush and juicy. There is purity here and a deep firm core of delicious energised fruit, black pepper, cinnamon, with a wonderful core of acidity driving through, very long and despite the concentration of the fruit, there is lightness of touch too. Refined and elegant. Importer: Woodwinters, Scotland; Stockist: Xtrawine.com £40.20
Tenuta di Ghizzano, Mimesi Vermentino, Costa Toscana, 2022Mid-gold colour, very distinct nose with intriguing hints of lemon sherbet, very rich intense core of Bramley apples slightly bruised, very textured,elegant, pure with a long finish. This is a serious Vermentino, not a summer day’s Vermentino. Thoughtful and intriguing. The wine, which is 100% Vermentino, spends 15 days on the skins in small amphoras. Importer: Woodwinters, Scotland.
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Further Information:-Isole e Olena
Castello di Fonterutoli
Ipsus
Barone Ricasoli
Giodo
Biondi-Santi
Bertinga
Tenuta di Ghizzano
As Paolo de Marchi leaves Isole e Olena after 50 years, Sarah Kemp travelled to Tuscany to talk to him about his remarkable “Great Wine Life”. He first saw the estate his father bought in 1956 when he was seven years old. At the age of 25 he moved to Tuscany to run the estate despite his father’s misgivings, he called it a bottomless pit. Today, it is one of the world’s most admired estates, and it has helped change the image of Chianti from a wine to be drunk with pizza to being a true fine wine. Listen in to hear his very personal and extraordinary story.
More information at wine-conversation.com
Listen in to Omnibus XXV for all the latest news and views from Sarah Kemp, John Stimpfig and Elin McCoy and this month there is good, bad and plain ugly. The first billion dollar sale of a luxury winery in Paso Robles to allegations of modern slavery practices during the harvest in Champagne, there is a lot to talk about. Plus Elin McCoy reports on all the major tastings and launches in New York, and she finds out that she likes Torrontes after all.
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Listen in to the 10-minute masterclass on Courtiers with Jane Anson. Jane explains the mysterious role of the Bordeaux courtier, who works as a broker between the château and the negociant. “They are extremely discreet, but know everything” she says. Jane gives a fascinating insight into the system which has been working since the Middle Ages.
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Margaux is the largest of the Medoc’s appellations, with the most varied terroir. Join Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp to discover how many producers there are, who are the star names, and which château to watch. Discover its signature taste, the price per hectare, and why it was recognised 20 years after Pauillac and St Julien. 10 minutes of fascinating facts!
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Listen in to hear the remarkable life story of Eduardo Chadwick, the man who put Chile on the fine wine map. John Stimpfig talks to him in our series “Great Wine Lives” about how he joined his father to run the family winery as a young man, the difficulties he faced in getting the critics to acknowledge Chile could make fine wine, and the one tasting which changed the world’s perception. Discover how he took Robert Mondavi around Chile and created their joint venture, SENA, and how he pioneered coastal Chilean wines. A frank and fascinating conversation.
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What do chocolate chip cookies, biodynamic viticulture, and winemaking in Bordeaux and the Napa Valley have in common? Elin McCoy talks to Denise Adams the owner of Château Fonplégade, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé and ADAMSVS on Howell Mountain on how she combines all three. Listen in to hear about her life’s work and how she left the world of art and interior design to become a vigneron on two continents.
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It has been a particularly busy month in the world of wine, in Omnibus XXIII we discuss all the major events. We report on the FBI raiding Sherry Lehmann, take a look at Bordeaux 2022 prices, say fond farewells to wine world greats Jean-Michel Cazes, Alexander Lur Saluces, Paul Dolan, Jackie Blot and Sarah Morphew MW. We look at the first US purchase of a British vineyard, and Frescobaldi buying into Oregon. John Stimpfig asks what is happening at Accolade Wines who have just put House of Arras up for sale. Elin McCoy looks at two major launches Haynes Vineyard and Ruinart’s newest cuvee. Plus, top wineries to visit awards, and of course, weather watch. Listen now to a full month of wine news and independent views.
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How many wine glasses do you need? How do they affect the taste of the wine? Sarah Kemp talks to Maximilian Riedel, the eleventh generation of his family, who have been making glass since 1756. His grandfather was the first to make wine-specific glasses, his father created varietal glasses and Maximilian talks about the new range of lighter and thinner he is about to launch, and answers the important question, “exactly how many glasses do you need!”
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Sue Hodder talks to John Stimpfig about Wynns Coonawarra John Riddoch Estate, one of Australia’s First Growths. Listen in to hear the remarkable story of Scottish pioneer John Riddoch, who founded the estate, the story of the Wynn family who bought it in 1957 and invested heavily in the vineyards, as well as Sue’s own story as chief winemaker for 25 years.
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Jamie Kutch is known for his stylish Pinot Noirs. He tells Elin McCoy how he became interested in wine at college when a Jesuit priest gave him a glass of Riesling. When he was a trader in New York for Merrill Lynch he became an active member of the Robert Parker bulletin board and enjoyed wine tastings with other enthusiasts. After one such tasting he wrote to Michael Browne of Kosta Browne saying how much he admired his wine, and subsequently jumped at the chance when Michael Browne of Kosta Browne offered to help him pursue his dream to make wine in California. Listen in to hear his story from New York trader to admired Sonoma Pinot Noir producer – and find out the highs and lows on the way.
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There is a large void today in the Medoc with the passing of Jean-Michel Cazes – he will be so missed. We were lucky enough to talk to him about his “Great Wine Life”.
One of the wine world’s most remarkable stories – discover how Marchese Lamberto Frescobaldi came to make wine with the prisoners on the island of Gorgona, off the Tuscany coast. Sarah Kemp travelled there with Marchese Lamberto to find out how the enterprise came about, speaks to their chief winemaker and discovers from the Governor of the prison the impact it has had on the inmates working there. A truly inspiring story.
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How well do you know Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux’s most famous appellation? Listen in to our 10-Minute Masterclass for all the key facts with Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp. Discover its varied terroir, land prices, its classification (controversial) with who is in and who is out, star names, upcoming names and our obscure fact.
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Charlie Leary, author of the highly acclaimed Leary’s Global Wineology, looks at today’s most interesting wine courses available to wine lovers.
Trevor Durling, Chief Winemaker of Beaulieu Vineyard in Napa Valley talks to John Stimpfig about the winery’s illustrious history and how Georges de Latour persuaded André Tchelistcheff to leave Paris to join him in California, where he became Father of the California wine industry. In 1936 André kept aside some exceptional barrels to make Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve, California’s first cult wine. In September the 2022 vintage will be launched on the Place in Bordeaux, and John has a preview of the latest vintage of this legendary wine.
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Jane Anson talks to Ben Kinmont, the rare bookseller who specialises in wine and food books. He recently sold Sean Thackery’s collection of wine books to Domaine Clarence Dillon. Listen in to hear the fascinating story of how Sean Thackery became a collector of rare wine books, why he sold, and how the books have found a new home in Château Haut-Brion’s library. Ben also gives advice on how to collect and the pitfalls to look out for. A great conversation for wine lovers and bibliophiles alike.
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Listen in to Omnibus 22 to hear this month’s wine news from around the world. In the US, Elin McCoy discusses the reaction to the collapse of Underground Cellars and the unhappy customers who cannot retrieve their wine from the company’s Cloud cellar. She also reviews the Apple TV plus series “Drops of God” and Ferran Adrià’s new eight-part book series on wine, the first two volumes (weighing between 15 and 20 pounds each) have just been translated into English. Sarah and Elin are excited about the new and promising direction for wine in restaurants – Ridge Vineyards has launched an on-tap programme with restaurant group Sixty Vines - goodbye bottles and labels? John Stimpfig is happy to report that there is a breakthrough on smoke taint by Oregon University, which will help vintners detect it with more accuracy. He also reports on the first prices announced in the 2022 Bordeaux Campaign, Fleurie’s application for Premier Cru status, looks back on the life of Lucien Lurton and, of course, no Omnibus would be complete without a weather watch.
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Charlie Leary, author of the highly acclaimed Leary’s Global Wineology, looks at today’s most interesting wine courses available to wine lovers.
Excitement is rising amongst The Wine Conversation team as the Royal Opera House Wine Gala Dinner and Auction approaches. John Stimpfig talks to Sarah Kemp about the world-class wines which will be poured, including Champagne Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle, 2014 Montrachet Domaine Jacques Prieur, Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Reserva 1999, Château Lafite 2007, and Taylor’s 30-year-old Tawny Port; the special recital by Jonas Kauffman and Ludovico Tézier (whose new album “Insieme” Sarah heartily recommends) with the immensely talented Aigul Akhmetshina. Sarah and John discuss the amazing auction lots on offer, which include trips to see the producers, double magnum 1990 of Château Lafite and the chance to have lunch with Sir Antonio Pappano, who just conducted the King Charles 111 coronation and is a noted wine lover. . A few tickets are left, details on website.
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Italian experts Nelson Pari and Federico Moccia talk to Sarah Kemp about Bolgheri, the wine-producing area located in the province of Livorno. Bolgheri contains some of Italy’s most famous names including Sassicaia and Ornellaia. Today it is attracting a generation of talented and dynamic winemakers who enjoy the freedom of the DOC rules to produce blends and mono-varietals. Listen in to hear all about its terroir, its history and which producers Federico and Nelson recommend.
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“It was not a wine I produced thinking of the market,” Paolo de Marchi told me at the first vertical tasting of Isole e Olena “Collezione Privata” Chardonnay, which was held recently at Chez Bruce in London. Isole e Olena is located on the western slope of the Chianti Classico hills, halfway between Florence and Siena; it is famed for its nuanced Chianti Classico wines and its world-renowned flagship wine, Cepparello.
Paolo moved to the family estate in 1976, and found that the vineyards had been planted with no idea of quality. “When you start with problems, you start thinking,” he said as he smiled and explained how he decided to graft over the white varietals of Trebbiano and Malvasia used for blending in Chianti Classico to Chardonnay. “We had no time to experiment,” he laughed, recalling that when he planted the Chardonnay he had no idea that it would become so sought-after in its own right. Today it has such a following that it was decided to give the varietal its own moment in the sun, with a vertical tasting of six vintages. The vines are planted on limestone and clay soils, and the first Isole e Olena Chardonnay was produced in 1987. The hallmark for me of Isole e Olena’s Chardonnays is their creamy cashmere textures and limestone elegance. These are gourmet wines in every sense.
Wine Notes:- Isole e Olena “Collezione Privita” Chardonnay 2021
A difficult vintage, with a mild winter, heavy rains in November and a wet Spring leading to a dry summer with some rain in August. The fruit comes from 5 hectares on the north-eastern side of the estate at 400 meters above sea level, with the vines being between 30-40 years old. Light golden-green in colour, an enticing mineral-driven nose: the style is reminiscent of Puligny-Montrachet, creamy texture with a core of intense stone fruit layered with fresh vibrant green notes, very structured and precise with a long, citric finish. 14%.
Isole e Olena “Collezione Privita” Chardonnay 2016
A mild winter with perfect temperatures during the Spring and Summer. The large diurnal temperature variation has given the 2016 vintage very defined aromatics. Antique gold in colour, the nose explodes with fresh aromas of stone fruit, on the palate there’s a deep core of apricots and white peach, mint and a creamy cashmere texture, very elegant with wonderful balance and precision. 14%.
Isole e Olena “Collezione Privita” Chardonnay 2015
A favourable vintage with a very wet winter that enabled the vines to access deep-seated water reserves. After fermentation in barrel, the wine remained on the lees in one-third new oak barrels for 10 months. During the first six months, the wine was stirred in the Burgundian style to give the wine more complexity. Floral nose, rich core of ripe white fruit, oak more obvious on this vintage than the others, full-bodied and still young. 13.5%.
Isole e Olena “Collezione Privita” Chardonnay 2014
A rainy vintage which was saved by a dry September and October, which allowed for a late harvest with short days and cool nights. The 2014 is outstanding, and my wine of the vertical. Mid-gold colour, fresh uplifted nose, there is wonderful lyrical movement in this wine as it waltzes across your palate. A kaleidoscope of flavours, a firm core of stone fruit, minerals, mint, white peach, orange blossom, hints of mandarin, a direct arrow of acidity drives through the wine. Beautifully balanced with a long finish, A truly world-class Chardonnay. 14%.
Isole e Olena “Collezione Privita” Chardonnay 2012
2012 started cool with virtually no rain until May and early June. Summer was hot and dry, with rain arriving in August to revive the vines. Deep golden colour, rich marmalade notes on nose, the wine shows the heat of the vintage with an intense core of citric confit, quince, hallmark creamy texture, full-bodied, slightly dry on finish. 13.5%.
Isole e Olena “Collezione Privita” Chardonnay 2011
A warm Spring brought early budding, summer was cool to start with, but improved by mid-August. Luminous gold in colour, richly aromatic, intense core of ripe peach, orange, grapefruit, hints of mint, remarkably fresh, with creamy velvet texture. Very gourmet with a long finish. 14%.
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Paolo de Marchi
Further information:-www.libertywines.co.uk
The Wine Conversation and the Royal Opera House in London are presenting a Wine Gala Dinner and Charity Auction at the ROH’s beautiful Paul Hamlyn Hall on Sunday June 11th 2023. All proceeds from the night will benefit the Royal Opera House Covent Garden Foundation, securing the future of ballet and opera. This special evening will commence with a Champagne Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle reception, followed by a special recital by renowned opera stars Jonas Kaufmann and Ludovic Tézier alongside the immensely talented Aigul Akhmetshina.
A special menu designed by the Company of Cooks will match world-class wines; Domaine Jacques Prieur Montrachet 2014, Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Reserva 1999, Château Lafite Rothschild 2007, and Taylor’s 30-year-old Tawny Port.
The wines will be presented by their principals; following the dinner there will be an auction conducted by Charlie Foley of Christie’s offering lots featuring exclusive world-class wine lots, and unique Royal Opera House experiences. The cultural wine event of the year!
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Further information:-ROHevents@roh.org.uk
Gabriella Wilby +44(0)20 7212 9458
▴ *Châteaux Lafite Rothschild*
En Primeur is a divisive subject.There are journalists who refuse to taste, claiming they don’t want to taste samples that are not finished, or worse, manipulated to suit certain palates. There are others who believe that journalists become embroiled in the sales system by publishing reviews before prices are announced. What is certain is that no region in the world can shine such a bright spotlight and create as much commentary and hype as Bordeaux does every April, when it opens its doors to the world to taste the latest vintage. One could be forgiven for believing during April that no other wine region exists. Even journalists who haven’t tasted the fledgling samples pitch in with an opinion, not wanting to be left out of the great theatre of En Primeur.
This year more than 6,000 of the world’s wine trade and journalists descended on Bordeaux to taste the 2022 vintage. This was the driest vintage recorded, with little rain between mid-June and harvest, and it was also the year of wildfires perilously close to the vineyards of the Southern Graves. I spent a week tasting alongside Jane Anson, who has just released her report on www.janeanson.com, a herculean effort of reviewing over 800 wines. I only tasted 300, but it was enough to confirm that it is a vintage like no other I have tasted in my career, a vintage of surprise, and a reminder the danger of judging a vintage entirely from fact sheets. All generalisations in this vintage went out of the window, it wasn’t a Right Bank year, nor a Left Bank year, not a Cabernet year, nor a Merlot year. It was a year for terroir and talent, a year where decisions made in the vineyard and the cellar were crucial – a year when the talent of the winemaker made a huge difference to the end result.
In the past, it was about to getting the grapes to perfect ripeness; this year it was how to achieve ripeness without over-ripeness and how to manage the tannins. Many producers talked about the vines becoming “battle-hardened” after several hot vintages, adapting to climate change. Jane pointed out that, while we all hope this will be the case, the proof will be if there are several years of drought, as 2022 benefited from a water reserve from 2021. What is without question is that many of the producers have become “battle-hardened” and are taking new approaches to viticulture and vinification. As Véronique Sanders of Château Haut-Bailly told me, “We wouldn’t have vinified like this 20 years ago.” It was interesting to note how several of the most successful wines had winemakers who had experience in California and South America. Fabien Teitgen from Château Smith Haut-Lafitte, who produced a brilliant red and white in 2022, told me that he was looking at vertical trellising after his time in Napa at the Cathiard’s new estate. A gentle extraction was an important key to success, as small berries and low yields led to deep colours and tannins that needed careful managing. The skin-to-juice ratio was high, so many of the most successful producers reduced the fermentation temperature from around 28°C to 26°C. Also, while there were hot days and drought conditions, the 2022 vintage had the advantage of cool nights from June to September, and I was impressed how many of the wines had retained their freshness.
Some wines which were on clay (and thus, on paper, should do well) produced tannins which were too overpowering, while certain gravel soils coped well. It is an estate-by-estate vintage. I didn’t taste the Moueix stable, Cheval Blanc or Leoville Barton on this trip (which often rank in my top wines) but out of the 300 I tasted here are my stand-outs: all the First Growths produced wines true to their terroirs, just in bigger frames. Château Margaux was particularly impressive for retaining its perfumed character in such a dry year. Lafite, Latour and Mouton all produced stunningly beautiful wines, it really is a matter of stylistic preference with these four, they are all at the top of their game. I marginally preferred Mission Haut-Brion to Haut Brion on the day, but at this point I wouldn’t read much into that, Haut Brion was coiled up, everything there, but slightly closed. Second wines have been constantly champing at the heels of the Grands Vins over the past few vintages, but not so in 2022. There was one second wine, however, which jumped out this year, it was Petit Mouton, an absolute triumph.
On the Left Bank, Nicolas Glumineau has provided us with a stunning Pichon Comtesse, another in a string of brilliant Pichon Comtesse vintages, and I was surprised and delighted by Château Batailley, which punched well above its weight. In the past I have found it rather four-square but the 2022 is probably one of the best Batailleys I have tasted at En Primeur. Down in the Graves, in two totally different styles, were Châteaux Haut-Bailly and Smith Haut-Lafitte – Haut-Bailly had classical Mozartian elegance, and Smith Haut-Lafitte showed all the energy of a rock ‘n’ roll star. Both were brilliant in totally different ways. On the Right Bank, Ch Beausejour Duffau-Lagarrosse was glorious, pure limestone elegance, but the wine of the week for me was Lafleur – heartbreakingly beautiful, and I believe will be one of the great classics of our time. I would urge readers to subscribe to Jane Anson’s site (www.janeanson.com) for a full report. Jane and I agree 90% of the time, but I am delighted to report we can happily disagree too.
So the question is whether to buy or not. My advice is, firstly, consider how old you are and when you plan to drink these wines, as this is a vintage built for long ageing. The prices are just about to come out, but with smaller yields I don’t predict prices going down, so take a deep breath and see how the prices stack up to the 2010s and 2016s, which for me are two of the greatest vintages across the board. While there is much to admire, I noticed re-reading my notes how very few wines had the word “lyrical,” my personal touchstone word for when a wine ebbs and flows like a great river across the palate but my palate will always go to elegance over opulence, energy over power. All the wines mentioned above I would be thrilled to lay down in my cellar, price permitting. It is hard to go by points anymore as everything is ranked 90+. (I was bemused to find out that one journalist has been banned from a well-known classified growth for giving their wine 94 points, so success now seems to be 95-100 points, looks like we are finally back to the five-star scale.) For a very good round-up of the vintage and different views I recommend Liv-Ex’s (www.liv-ex.com) 2022 En Primeur report, which has excellent background information.
2022 remains one of the most interesting vintages I have tasted, it is varied, it is full of contradictions, and it just might be a pointer to how Bordeaux wines will taste in the future.
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▴ Châteaux Pichon Comtesse
▴ Châteaux Lafite Rothschild
Further information:-www.janeanson.com
www.liv-ex.com
Véronique Sanders of Château Haut-Bailly is one of Bordeaux’s most admired and liked personalities. In our Series “Great Wine Lives” she talks to Sarah Kemp about her remarkable career. Listen in to hear her discuss how she grew up helping her grandfather Jean Sanders in the vineyards as a little girl, never dreaming that one day she would run the estate. She discusses her great relationship with Bob Wilmers who bought the estate from her grandfather, and now with Chris Wilmers, his son who took over when Bob died in 2017. She reveals the challenges, her philosophy, and some of her favourite vintages, and, her ambitions for the future.
More information at wine-conversation.com
Discover Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp’s view of the 2022 vintage – what did well, what didn’t, and what they were most surprised by. A year where the talent of the winemaker in handling the tannins was essential. 2022 the vintage of surprise.
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As En Primeur tastings are in full swing, Sarah Kemp gets Jane Anson’s first thoughts on Bordeaux 2022 after her first week of tasting. Recorded on the D2 motorway, Jane talks about the vintage conditions and the importance of how the samples are prepared by the châteaux. Was she surprised? Find out in this special on-the-road production…. and look out for another En Primeur episode later this week when Jane and Sarah will reflect on what they have discovered so far.
Find out more at wine-conversation.com
Listen in to hear our latest 10-Minute Masterclass with Jane Anson. As 6,000 of the wine world’s trade and journalists descend on Bordeaux to taste the latest vintage, Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp take a hard look at the system. They discuss how it works, its history, the number of châteaux involved. They ask whether there is a financial advantage in buying En Primeur and explain who actually owns it until it is delivered: 10 minutes to get you up-to-speed before the offers arrive in your inbox. The first in our En Primeur week podcasts.
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with Charlie Leary
Many intriguing wine education programs exist beyond the well-known levels of the Wine & Spirit Education Trust and the Court of Master Sommeliers. My new book, a guide to wine education offerings worldwide catalogs them, and one recent newcomer particularly caught my attention (and that of Jane Anson too, when we talked last January). It goes under the somewhat lengthy sobriquet of “Diplôme Universitaire “Vers le terroir par la dégustation géosensorielle”, or University Diploma “Towards terroir by geosensorial tasting”, from the University of Strasbourg.
The intrigue in this curriculum stems from its focus on a new way of wine tasting that centers on sensations and impressions on the palate (with less emphasis on nose and color; black glasses are used) and their links to an identifiable terroir. Defined as “continuing education,” the program starts with vineyards soils and topography, being mainly under the direction of the University’s Department of Geography but also relies on the abundant Alsace domains and their fabulous winegrowers nearby.
Offered in French, the course is oriented towards viti-vini professionals, specialists in tourism, gastronomy and sommellerie, journalists as well as “informed amateurs,” in short anyone “wishing to deepen their knowledge of the terroirs and their practice of tasting.” What will you learn? Goals include comprehending the elements necessary to define a “wine of place,” “valorize terroirs,” develop a broader and new way of discussing great wines transcending “only analytical and aromatic considerations” to provide a “precise evaluation of the taste structures born of terroir,” and even apply all that to viticultural practices.
Centreplace belong to geosensorial tasting. Julien Camus, the founder of the Wine Scholar Guild, both completed the program and now helps teach it. In my “wine conversation” with him, he defined the geosensorial approach:
Ultimately, it is somewhat a return to how wine was tasted before the advent of analytical tasting as the leading model. It is a tasting method in which the focus is not placed on aromatics or on dissecting a wine’s structural components (acid, sugar, tannins, alcohol), but on what’s happening in the mouth as a whole. It is a more holistic approach.
A lot of the criteria have to do with tactile sensations. Luckily, the lexicon for tactile perceptions is rather simple and accessible to all, from beginners to connoisseurs. Is a wine thin or thick? Fluid or viscous? Tense or relaxed? Grainy, powdery, or smooth? Irritating or caressing? Firm or supple? Hollow or dense? It is surprising to see how comfortably people with no wine tasting experience can answer these questions with quite a good level of confidence. They just get it.
The University adds that the geosensorial way of tasting detects differences according to the characteristics of a place (the mother rock and soils and the micro- and meso-climates, in particular, but also all characteristics of a place). Faculty include local winemakers, and the program offers over 220 hours of instruction for around 3300 euros. Instruction is all in-person in Strasbourg with numerous field trips. One can start the application process online.
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Listen in to Omnibus 21 for another packed programme of news from the wine world. This month Kylie Minogue wows Prowein, new research shows the birthplace of Vitis Vinifera as the Levant. Big moves afoot too, Michel Rolland hangs up his consulting hat and Axel Heinz leaves Ornellaia for Château Lascombes. Financial troubles a plenty, Sherry-Lehmann’s licence revoked, and Silicon Valley Bank’s collapse affects 400 Northern California vintners. Latest harvest reports from the Southern Hemisphere and weather conditions in the Northern Hemisphere. Elin attends the DRC 2020 tasting and declares their Montrachet as the finest chardonnay she has tasted in her life. Glitz and glam abound at Biondi-Santi and Beaulieu’s Rarity tastings and Kosta Browne launch a Burgundy range. Plus, our intrepid contributing editor John Stimpfig tells us how he is getting on his bike for a charity 200km bike ride over 2 days across Bordeaux for Hospitality Action. To support him please go to our website. We will be reporting back on his knees in a future episode.
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Listen in to hear our latest 10-Minute Masterclass with Jane Anson. Today’s topic is Cabernet Sauvignon, the king of grapes. Find out how much is planted (spoiler alert – China has the most), its parentage, the best regions where it is grown, most well-known names, the rules and regulations about being labelled Cabernet Sauvignon, plus Jane’s one obscure fact about it. We marvel at how she digs them up…
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Applications to the second edition of the “Bordeaux Mentor Week” have just opened. Last year over 100 young people applied from 28 countries, out of which 7 were chosen to be mentored by Jane Anson and co-founder Chinedu Rita Rosa. Jane Anson talks to Sarah Kemp about the importance of mentors and the diverse activities the successful candidates will encounter, from harvesting to startup entrepreneurs. Listen in to hear about this amazing opportunity for young people.
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In the latest in our Great Wine Lives series Richard Geoffroy talks to Elin McCoy about how he rebelled against his wine family background by becoming a doctor before returning to his roots and joining Moët Hennessy, becoming Dom Pérignon’s Chef de Cave for 28 years. He discusses his time there, how he collaborated with Lady Gaga and Jeff Koons, and why he decided to leave and launch his own Sake brand IWA 5 – where assemblage is key to its identity. A fascinating interview with one of the world’s most philosophical and thoughtful creators.
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Recent Book Round Up As we’ve frequently noted on The Wine Conversation, wine stories these days are often about climate change, and not always good news. There is one bright spot, however, and that’s books on wine: The climate’s improved lately, and there have been two recent good years in a row, abundant and distinguished by quality and variety, mostly thanks to two enterprising publishers: the Académie du Vin Library, a dream project of the late Steven Spurrier, and Infinite Ideas, which has created a varied range of books (including one on entrepreneurial strategy based on Game of Thrones). Their approaches are different, but complimentary – and praiseworthy.
The Académie, which lists Hugh Johnson as an advisor, leans toward the literary, as exemplified by “Drinking with the Valkyries,” by Andrew Jefford, which seems to have been nominated for every award the wine world bestows lately, and quite deservedly. He’s a fine writer and original thinker who doesn’t join the bland, gridlocked patterns that define so much of wine discourse, preferring the singular glories of off-road journeys. The title essay, for example, compares making Vintage Port to cage-fighting (“density and ferocity… unapologetic”); elsewhere, he denotes tasting without drinking as a “necessary flaw,” and a “mangrove swamp,” and demolishes the idea of awarding points from so many different, and relevant, angles that I find it hard to look at those numbers any more without laughing out loud. This is, instead, all about eloquent, open-minded, and generously inclusive wine appreciation: We’re all invited, and reminded how much there is to enjoy.
Upbeat and informative in a different way is “Oz Clarke on Wine,” an exuberant,even boisterous memoir and love letter to wine, a tour d’horizon aptly subtitled “your global wine companion.” Clarke is garrulous, opinionated, and often quite funny, whether explaining “the Spain you know and the Spain you don’t,” wondering “was Oregon ever the new Burgundy?” or relating how Mark Antony (“a bit of a lad”) tried to create sparkling wine in order to boost Cleopatra’s friskiness; few writers are as good company.
And then, speaking of bubbly, the Academie has just popped another cork, with “On Champagne,” a wide-ranging and fairly stellar anthology, mostly a state-of-the-art overview by such luminaries as Serena Sutcliffe MW, Tom Stevenson, Elin McCoy, Tyson Stelzer, Hugh Johnson, and a dozen other experts, past and present. The only thing missing is much of a sense of humour, so often a component of Champagne stories – Evelyn Waugh and Joe Fattorini are the only partygoers; perhaps more’s been held back for an anthology of wine wit?
The Infinite Ideas wine library, somewhat more down-to-earth, consists of 30 books so far, with several more in the pipeline. Overseen by Sarah Jane Evans MW, Richard Mayson, and James Tidwell MS, each volume covers a region, country or type, by authors who know them well (the list bristles with MWs and well-known experts like Anne Krebiehl MW, Stephen Brook, Raymond Blake, Evans, and Mayson). Although the look and feel of the books is somewhat utilitarian – full-sized, solid and durable paperbacks, straightforward no-nonsense formatting – the texts are quite well-written, organized, and edited, efficiently combining topography and appreciation. Two good recent examples are “The Wines of Rousillon,” by Rosemary George MW, and “Wines of the Rhône,” by Matt Walls.
Formerly known for now-unfashionable sweet wines, the dry wines of Rousillon only emerged as serious contenders about 50 years ago – a blink in the long view of wine – and then still had to fight their way from under an overbearing mismatch with the neighbouring and bulky Languedoc; it’s different, and, as the author points out, unusual and original, something of an undiscovered territory, which this book goes a long way toward remedying.
Not a problem with the Rhône, although the competing claims, myths, and charms of the region and its wines can provide a sometimes somewhat bewildering mosaic (or, as the author puts it when assessing the Southern Rhône, the “gallimaufry”). Despite its rich history, change – especially the effect of climate change – is inevitable, and Matt Walls provides a clear-eyed view of its present, and insights into the future.
The most astonishing wine book of the year – almost any year, really, is “The South America Wine Guide,” by Amanda Barnes. It’s a 528-page hardbound, well-designed volume of dense but straightforward prose, good maps and illustrations that literally opens up new territory, an achievement all the more amazing by being self-published. Barnes is an Englishwoman who’s lived and worked as a journalist there for a decade, joining the winemakers in “a period of change, retrospection, and innovation,” an assertion she proves repeatedly, as she explores winemaking in 10 countries (with some digressions on food, culture and tourism). If you think it’s all about Malbec and a few classic French varieties, you’ll have to think again, and it’ll be interesting to see the reaction when the first “natural wines” from Brazil arrive – will they be as wildly popular as they are in Rio and San Paulo?
Finally, there were two offbeat memoirs. Wine recollections are nothing unusual of course, but these are different, neither mixed bags of amiable dinners and vintages, nor jolly travelogues, but rather personal and original approaches to wine’s subtleties, joys, and epiphanies. **“To Fall in Love, Drink This”** is by Alice Feiring, one of the best-known advocates of natural wines and a fierce defender of the faith. This is a true autobiography, with family melodramas and the pangs of coming of age as well as a writer, but it’s also a coming-to-wine story – each chapter ends with wine recommendations, and the text is studded with anecdotes and tips; there’s also a serial killer, in person. The cover illustration is of Alice in Wonderland, and it’s apt.
“Blood from a Stone,” by Adam McHugh, takes an unusual tack: wine as redemption. The author was a hospice chaplain, helping people cope with the end of life, and eventually succumbing to compassion fatigue, “trapped in my best intentions to do good.” A trip to France, and then discovering the wine country of California’s Santa Barbara region, reveal an alternative. Some conversion narratives can be arduous, but McHugh blends his passion with logic, healthy doses of history, and deft storytelling. Celebrating life’s pleasures has always been not only an act of gratitude, he writes, but of defiance, and attentive wine appreciation is a fine antidote to boredom. More trips to France, where “there is no separation of church and wine estate,” lead to bottom-of-the-barrel work in retail shops and tasting rooms until he concludes his roundabout odyssey in the Santa Ynez Valley, working in vineyards, life finally salvaged. It’s folksy, often deadpan-funny, unabashedly romantic, and irresistible.
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This month, Elin McCoy reports on the big environmental win in the Napa Valley – the Walt Ranch controversy ends after a 17-year battle. John Stimpfig and Elin report on the devastating wildfires in Itata and Bio Bio in Chile and the floods in Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand. There is also plenty of wine theft news and fraud this month, 4.6 million bottles of Spanish wine passed off as Bordeaux results in jail sentences and more “stolen to order” fine wine robberies in Austria and Norway. Still, in Norway, we report on the determined wine lovers who camped out in tents in Oslo for a month to ensure they got their burgundies. We salute them, all this and plenty more in this month’s edition.
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Listen in to our 10-Minute Masterclass with Jane Anson on Pauillac – a deep dive into this famous commune which boasts three First Growths, Lafite, Mouton Rothschild and Latour, plus some of the wine world’s most loved names. Find out which Pauillac wine Michael Broadbent used to buy, how much it costs per hectare, its terroir and taste profile. Plus an obscure Pauillac fact to impress your friends.
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Have you ever wanted to own your own vineyard or blend your own wine with a top winemaker? Elin McCoy talks to Michael Evans the man who makes it possible for several hundred wine lovers– listen in to find out about how he started Vines of Mendoza and Vines Global – clubs for wine lovers who dream of being winemakers. He talks to Elin about how it started when he went to Argentina for a holiday and ended up spending 18 years there. Since then he has built a resort, named one of the best in South America, and recently expanded the enterprise to offer the chance for wine lovers to blend their own wine with the aid of some of the world’s most renown winemakers in Montalcino, the Mosel, Argentina, Priorat, Champagne, Napa Valley and Oregon.
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This week we look at the 1855 classification, the world’s first culinary ranking. Find out why it came about, the price bands the wines had be achieve to be in each of the five growths, the story of how Cantemerle became a 5th growth after the initial ranking. Discover what has changed since the original ranking (spoiler alert – the names were classified not the vineyard area) and find out what Jane’s most obscure 1855 classification fact is.
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A special episode of Great Wine Lives – John Stimpfig interviews Sarah Kemp about her memories of working with Steven Spurrier. Sarah and Steven had a great partnership for over 25 years when Steven was the Consultant Editor of Decanter and Sarah was the Publisher and Managing Director. Sarah looks back on Steven’s extraordinary life, one of the wine world’s most beloved and well-known figures. Steven’s memorial was held on January 19th at St James Garlickhythe, in the Vintry ward of the City of London. Sarah and Mark Williamson, owner of Willi’s Wine Bar in Paris gave the two eulogies. Both are now available to read on The Wine Conversation website.
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This month, Jane Anson on Artificial Intelligence’s role in wine writing – will wine writers be out of a job? John Stimpfig reports on Australia’s wine industry problem with its 2.3 billion litres of unsold wine, and discusses the possible solutions. We look back on the lives of two of the wine world’s greats, Luciano Sandrone and d’Arry Osborne, who died recently. And no Omnibus would be complete without a weather watch – this month. how the floods in California are affecting the vines, and it is not bad news. Plus wine in India, how Damp January is taking over from Dry January and much more.
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A brand new series – the 10-minute masterclass with Jane Anson. First in the series is Pomerol, an appellation which covers 0.6% Bordeaux’s surface but is one of its most well-known names. Jane covers its terroir, cost of land, its taste profile, the most famous names, new producers to look out for and reveals one obscure fact to impress your wine-loving friends.
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Chianti Rufina is not as well known as Chianti Classico, but it certainly deserves to be. Sarah Kemp talks to Lorenzo Portaro, winemaker at Castello Nipozzano, which is owned by the Frescobaldi family and is the largest producer in Chianti Rufina. He talks about the illustrious history of the region, how the style of wine differs from Chianti Classico, and its incredible ability to age. He discusses Chianti Rufina’s new initiative “Terraelectae”, a name for wines made from single crus which are made from 100% Sangiovese and are aged for at least 30 months before release. Listen in to hear him discuss the future of this Tuscan jewel.
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Which wine course should you study? Which offers value and which will lead to a job in the wine business? Which are the best free courses? How much can you earn in the wine business? Just some of the questions answered by Charlie Leary who talks to Jane Anson about his new book Leary’s Global Wineology, a guide to wine education, mentorships and scholarships. A fascinating conversation about the myriad of wine education courses available around the world.
As we see out 2022, John Stimpfig and Sarah Kemp name their top 10 wines of the year, reveal their personal “house wines” and best discoveries and name their favourite Wine Conversation podcasts of the year. Wishing all our listeners a Happy New Year!
Listen in to Omnibus 18 for a month of wine news and our experts’ views. John Stimpfig looks at the Burgundy market and discusses the latest results from the Hospice de Beaune. He reports on the floods in Australia and frost in Argentina, both affecting the 2023 harvest and debates whether the British Royal family be serving only UK wines at state banquets? In the US Elin McCoy looks at obscure grape varieties appearing on labels, the latest planning controversy in Napa Valley, looks back on the life of trailblazer Margaret Duckhorn. A shocking arrest, Lafite’s new wine plus much more.
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Bruno-Eugène Borie of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou talks to Elin McCoy in our series “Great Wine Lives”. He describes himself as “the bad boy of Bordeaux”. Elin asks is he still? Listen in to hear him talk about growing up at Ducru, his idols, his love of art and literature and why his motto is “Modern Forever”.
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The late great Italian wine expert Nick Belfrage MW once remarked, after tasting the 1891 vintage of Biondi-Santi (which he gave 10/10 points), “I hope I am in that great shape when I’m that age.” His comment came to mind at a recent dinner at the Ritz Hotel, hosted by Biondi-Santi’s CEO, Giampiero Bertolini, where a selection of Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva wines were served. It’s rare: Only 42 vintages have been released since 1888. The tasting demonstrated the extraordinary ageing ability of this great estate, with the 1975 vintage stealing the limelight. I doubt there are any 1975 vintages in Bordeaux or other fine wine regions which could hold a candle to this majestic, enchanting wine.
Biondi-Santi was founded in 1840, and in 1865 produced the first wine recognised under the name “Brunello.” In 1888, the first bottle labelled “Brunello di Montalcino” was produced by Ferruccio Biondi-Santi. Today the wines of Brunello di Montalcino are amongst Italy’s most prestigious wines, commanding prices to match its prestige.
The Tenuta Greppo estate is located two kilometres from the town of Montalcino, at an altitude of 560 metres above sea level. The estate has five specific vineyard sites on the four sides of Montalcino, chosen for their ability to complement each other in different vintages. To the east of Montalcino at a height of 370 metres is “Il Pieri” vineyard, with calcareous soils rich in schists, known locally as “galestro.” To the west lies the “Scarnacuoia” plot at 450 metres; the soil is marly schists, and the vineyard is terraced by dry-stone walls. To the north is “Pievecchia,” which lies at 200 metres, a cooler site with a higher clay content in the soil. The largest block of vineyard is around the winery at Tenuta Greppo, with vines planted on a steep terrace in the form of an amphitheatre – the oldest vines date back to the 1930s and are mixed with olive trees. (Originally the custom was to mix the olive trees with vines for sharecropping, but today it is increasingly recognised as a benefit of biodiversity). In 2019, a new plot “Ribusuoli,” was bought, just to the south-west of Tenuta Greppo, which has similar soil profile and altitude as Tenuta Greppo.
When Christopher Descours, the French owner of the EPI Group (which owns Champagne Charles Heidsieck and recently bought Chianti Classico Isola e Olena) bought the estate from Jacopo Biondi Santi in 2016, there were concerned mutterings about the French taking over an Italian treasure, but Giampiero Bertolini, who was previously with the Frescobaldi Group, said that the French were firmly across the mountains and the team at Biondi-Santi would continue to be run by Tuscan experts, the motto being “evolution, not revolution.” Today, Bertolini is in charge of Biondi-Santi and Isole e Olena, and they remain two of Italy’s most recognisable and respected names.
Bertolini explained that part of the evolution has been understanding the soil better, and thus employed Pedro Parra, the world-famous terroir expert from Chile. In 2019, Parra undertook a parcellation study, digging pits over the 32 hectares of Biondi-Santi’s vineyards. As a result of that effort, 12 parcels were identified that represented various soils, and the grapes from those diverse parcels have been harvested and vinified separately since the 2019 vintage. Along with the soil study, the team at Biondi-Santi have designed a new trellising system, with moveable horizontal bars, which allows the vine’s canopy to grow in a V-shape, allowing the wind to blow through and provide a shady and protected environment for the grape bunches. Other measures have been introduced to combat global warming: nets are used to shade the vines from the sun, and site-specific cover crops are used to enhance the soil’s microbiological life.
Biondi-Santi makes three wines, Rosso di Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, made only in exceptional years.
Wine Notes:-The wines chosen for the dinner to show the estate were:
**Biondi-Santi Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2019**
Aged in Slavonian oak barrels for 12 months, the 2019 Rosso di Montalcino shows bright, uplifted autumnal fruit layered with black pepper and aromatic herbs. There is a lovely lyricism to the wine, with its firm core of fruit leading to a long finish. Elegant and refined, ready to drink now with huge pleasure. 13%. Tannico.com US$ 76.67, Vivino £72
Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Riserva 2016
From a superb vintage, this young Riserva’s nose delivers aromas of mountain berries, wild roses and fresh herbs. The palate is tightly woven and shows all the ingredients to make this a classic of the future. Firm tannins contain a concentration of blackberries, wild fennel, tapenade, and flint. Lots of power and elegance here, a wine which will reward cellaring. 14%. Harvey Nichols £220, KLWines.com US$229
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Riserva 2008 “La Storica”
This vintage is still incredibly youthful. Made from very low yields, with the proprietary clone of Sangiovese Grosso called BBS11 (Brunello Biondi Santi 11), it shows a firm core of pure forest red fruit layered with white pepper, liquorice and flint. Elegant, with beautiful refined tannins, it will reward cellaring for many more years. 13.5%. BBR £725 per case, KLWines.com US$220
**Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Riserva 1999 “La Storica”**
The 1999 vintage was cold until June, when the weather turned to dry and hot; September had a few rainfalls in the first half of the month, and the harvest was in the second half when it was dry and cold. Expressive nose, hints of incense and dried roses, on the palate an elegant structure holds together layers of pure red fruit, bitter orange, balsamic notes entwined with tobacco and flint. Quite ethereal and very long. 13%. Crump, Richmond and Shaw £433
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Riserva 1985 “La Storica”
The 1985 was made from the estate’s vines, with over 25 years of age. 1985 was a warm vintage with dry weather conditions throughout the harvest in September. On the nose there’s uplifted cherries and wild mountain herbs. The palate demonstrates restrained power – there is a muscularity to this wine, like a thoroughbred racehorse, a deep core of firm red and black fruit, while balsamic notes, green tea and cedar dance together to provide an impressive display of Tuscan aristocratic power and finesse. 13%. Hedonism £422
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Riserva 1975 “La Storica”
A wine of heart-breaking beauty. A mesmerising complex nose with a kaleidoscope of spice, black cherry fruit and wild roses, an intense core of dried cherries, black chocolate and pepper, expressing extraordinary depth and length with a wonderful freshness. After half an hour, it takes on further dimensions, quite seamless, slightly brooding and utterly beguiling. Elegance personified; perfect to drink now, but will age for many more years to come. 12.5%. Hedonism £1140
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Andrew Jefford is one of the world’s most thoughtful and eloquent wine writers. He talks to Sarah Kemp about his new book “Drinking with the Valkyries” which contains essays on wine from his columns in Decanter and World of Fine Wine. In this wide-ranging interview, they discuss everything from the people who influenced him as a writer (spoiler alert Robert Louis Stevenson and Ralph Steadman), why he dislikes the hierarchical aspect of scoring, different nationality’s palates, Australian wines’ strengths and weaknesses, why he changed his mind on what matters most in making wine, why wine writers should take an oath not to take wine too seriously - and that’s just a few of the topics. A fascinating discussion with today’s most admired wine writer.
John Stimpfig picks his 12 great buys (all under £25) from the Wine Society to evaluate and discuss with Sarah Kemp. After tasting together for many years they agree they have broadly the same palates, but not exclusively. Does Sarah like all of John’s choices? Find out which wines were their star buys and which wines offer outstanding value for money. A good conversation about what to look for in a diverse selection of wines.
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Omnibus 17 is out with all the latest wine news and views about wine. This month Elin McCoy reports on three significant anniversary tastings, 60 years of Ridge Vineyards, 20 years of Ca’ Marcanda, Gaja’s Bolgheri property and 100 years of cult classic Chateau Le Puy. John Stimpfig examines wine and royalty and asks which wine companies will retain their royal warrants; plus who is the British Royal Family’s most knowledgeable member? Listen in to find out.
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Elephants in the vineyard? Buddhist pickers who won’t kill insects eating the grapes? Just some of the challenges Michael Juergens faced establishing the first winery in Bhutan. Elin McCoy talks to him about how he, as a business consultant who loved to run marathons, play drums in a punk band, fell in love with wine and ended up on the wine world’s wildest adventure.
Jane Anson talks to Maureen Downey, a global expert on wine fraud, about the extent of wine fraud in the industry today. She discusses how organised crime has become involved and turned it into a big business, why it has become easier to counterfeit wine and how she ended up becoming an expert in this field and being called “the Sherlock Holmes of wine”.
Karen MacNeil talks to Elin McCoy about the newly released third edition of “The Wine Bible”, which has sold over a million copies. Listen in to hear how a girl from an Irish Catholic family who didn’t drink wine, had no books, nor music left home at 15 to become the US’s most famous wine educator. Find out what advice she offers women in the wine industry today, discover how she compiled the new edition, what was put in and what was left out, and which were her greatest surprises (spoiler alert – South of England sparkling). A wonderful hour of great conversation from a woman who started her tasting career by being told she could only attend the tasting group if she didn’t talk…
Olivier Bernstein is one of Burgundy’s new bright stars. He talks to Elin McCoy on how he left his family’s classical music business and decided to make top Burgundy. Find out how he came to establish himself as a micro-negociant with a sensational range of Grands and Premiers Crus of the Côte de Nuits, and set a record price for his jeroboam of Romanée St-Vivant when auctioned by Cult Wines. Listen in to hear Olivier’s story and the different path he took to realise his dream.
Baron Éric de Rothschild talks to Sarah Kemp in a wide-ranging and candid interview about his life in wine. He reveals his earliest memories of Château Lafite, talks about the decisions to buy other estates, including in Chile and China, his views on wines as brands and a memorable lunch with Greta Garbo and the Worker’s Cooperative. Plus much, much more.
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Leading Bordeaux expert Jane Anson of www.janeanson.com talks about the new Saint-Emilion classification which has just been released. Discover the criteria used, who are the winners and losers, and why she thinks certain châteaux missed out on being promoted. She discusses how the classification has been mired in controversy in the past and explains how important the classification is to the estates and today’s consumers.
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Amanda Barnes, author of the award-winning “The South America Wine Guide” talks to Sarah Kemp about the discoveries she made during the ten years she researched her book. Find out which varieties she champions and the regions she believes are South America’s Grands Crus of today.
Listen in to Omnibus 16 for the latest news and views. This month: A 29-year-old Mexican beauty queen is accused of being behind the “wine heist of the century;” arrests in a major Spanish wine fraud; breakthrough research in dry farming; California celebrates the class of ’72, the wineries which made California wine’s reputation; how Bordeaux’s wildfires may affect the vintage; and lots more.
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In our series “The Next Generation” Elin McCoy talks to Hélène Seillan of Vérité, the acclaimed winery in Sonoma, which produces the highly collectable La Muse, La Joie and Le Désir, which are made from more than 50 “micro crus” across four appellations. Hélène talks about her childhood in South West France where her father made wine for seven châteaux, her move to California as a child speaking no English when her father joined Jess Jackson to start Vérité, how she got the wine bug and her 100-point wines with Robert Parker.
Alice Feiring, a leader of the Natural Wine movement. talks to Elin McCoy about her new book, “To Fall in Love Drink This: A Wine Writer’s Memoir ”. Listen in as she talks about learning how to smell, how she evaded a serial killer at 14, why she believes the Natural Wine movement is dead, and the movement she believes will replace it.
How soon will we hear the title “Climate Change Director” as often as “Winemaker? Miguel Torres Snr has been at the forefront of climate change solutions and he has appointed Josep Maria Ribas Portella, an industrial engineer with a Masters in Sustainable Energy Systems as Torres’s Climate Change and Sustainability Director. Listen in to find out what Josep and the team at Torres are doing to combat climate change, find out his views on glass bottles, regulations and much more. A timely and important conversation as we see this month the indisputable evidence of climate change in the fires across Europe.
All the latest wine news and independent views. John Stimpfig reveals why he thinks the Champagne region is shooting itself in the foot over herbicides, Elin McCoy reports on the sale of Joseph Phelps and the trend for other iconic Napa and Sonoma estates to sell out to big corporations, as well as why some wineries won’t be insurable in the future and much, much more.
Elin McCoy talks to Tor Kenward of Tor in our "Great Wine Lives" series – a fascinating conversation from the man who has been at the heart of the Napa Valley since 1977, who brought the great chefs to California, including Julia Child and now makes award-winning Cabernet from Napa’s greatest vineyards.
More information at wine-conversation.com
Jane Anson talks to Namratha Prashanth, who left Bangalore after an abusive marriage to create a new life, a new business and a new brand in Bordeaux.
In our “Great Wine Lives” series, Elin McCoy talk to visionary winemaker Paul Hobbs, who is today making wine in four continents. From been chosen by Robert Mondavi as a young winemaker to work on Opus One, helping Nicolas Catena in Argentina, setting up his own wineries, in California, Cahors, Galicia, the Finger Lakes and Armenia, meet the man who really does have a global wine vision.
More information at wine-conversation.com
As we celebrate our Great Queen of England’s Platinum Jubilee, we look back on another remarkable Queen, Eleanor of Aquitaine. Jane Anson talks to leading French historian Stéphane Bern about this remarkable woman who taught the English how to drink wine.
Leading Bordeaux expert Jane Anson of www.janeanson.com talks about the 2021 Bordeaux vintage. Jane tasted over 800 wines during En Primeur – she relates her overall impression of the vintage, reveals her star wines, discusses which terroirs did well and which did not, and tells where you can find value for money.
Find out more at wine-conversation.com
In our “Great Wine Lives” series, Sarah Kemp talks to Hervé Berland about his 30-plus years at Château Mouton Rothschild and then leading the green revolution at Château Montrose. Memories of working with Baron Philippe de Rothschild, his daughter Philippine, the move to Montrose and why, though he is retiring from Château Montrose, he is looking forward to his next wine adventure.
More information at wine-conversation.com
Listen in to Omnibus 14 for news and unfiltered independent views – how the Ukraine war is affecting the wine world, the first US$1,000 wine-tasting tour in Napa Valley, Jane Anson’s first thoughts on Bordeaux 2021, the wine sale of the year, Prince Robert of Luxembourg’s private cellar to be auctioned for charity plus much more.
Find out more at wine-conversation.com
So many great wines, but here are my personal favourites from a week in the vineyards. From world-class to terrific value, much to talk about.
Viva Argentina! – Thinking about visiting Argentina? Bernard Fontannaz of Finca La Anita talks to us about how visitors can enjoy an entire meal cooked over fire and which wines match each dish, while relaxing at the foot of the Andes mountains. Ready to fly?!
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Viva Argentina! – We discuss the age-ability of Malbec with Juan Marco of Finca Decero, definitely collector’s items for the future.
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Viva Argentina! – Meet the Eco-Warriors of Argentina – Pierre Lurton of Cheval des Andes on agroecology, Juan Marco of Finca Decero on irrigation, Guillermina Van Houten of Catena Zapata on organics and Manuel Lanus and Facundo Bonamaizon of Bodega Chakana on biodynamics in Argentina. Discover their challenges and why the leafcutter ant is their biggest pest.
Find out more at wine-conversation.com
Viva Argentina! – Elin McCoy talks with Laura Catena in “Great Wine Lives,” part of our Viva Argentina! series. Laura is Managing Director of Catena Zapata, an author of several books, an emergency and accident doctor, and mother. She is also Argentine wines’ greatest ambassador. Listen in to hear her talk about her amazing life.
Find out more at wine-conversation.com
Viva Argentina! – What’s new in Argentina? Answer: lots. In this episode, we meet three of Argentina’s pioneers. Listen to Juan Marco of Finca Decero talk about the rise of single vineyards, Sergio Casé of Trapiche discuss their new ocean-oriented vineyard at Chapadmalal near Buenos Aires, and Silvio Alberto at Bodega Bianchi on why he believes Malbec benefits from using amphoras, plus Sarah Kemp’s discovery of the trip – an unoaked Viognier.
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Viva Argentina! – Welcome to the first in our week’s series “Viva Argentina!” Sarah Kemp and Phil Crozier discuss how Argentina has transformed itself in the past 15 years and meet dynamic young winemaker Sebastian Zuccardi, who is so terroir-obsessed he divides up his rows of vines into smaller plots. He explains how the Andes is not one mountain but a complex range, with many different soils, and how his parcel-by-parcel approach has resulted in changes in the winery.
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War, wine and peace. This month we report on wine in the Ukraine, the Russian wine professionals defying Putin, who’s buying and selling in the US, the Brad Pitt/Angelina Jolie Chateau Miraval bust-up, the Schramsberg anniversary dinner for the “Toast to Peace”, say farewell to Anthony Barton and much more.
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Rosemary George MW talks to Sarah Kemp about the Languedoc, the region she believes has evolved the most over the past 20 years. She discusses its history, her three favourite appellations and names the producers to look out for in each appellation. She discusses its history and its future. A great conversation about where to find the hidden jewels which offer great value for money.
Find out more at wine-conversation.com.
Listen in to hear Jacques Lurton, from Bordeaux’s most prominent wine family, talk to Jane Anson about why he left Bordeaux, the people who influenced him, why he believes New World practices can help the Old World face up to climate change, the new cuvée he is launching, and why he is happy to be back running the family company. A full, great wine life!
More information at wine-conversation.com
Art and wine, always an uplifting combination and particularly when for a charitable cause – Vendemmia d’Artista dedicated to Ornellaia 2019.
Oz Clarke talks to Sarah Kemp in our Great Wine Lives series. In a wide-ranging conversation, he discusses wine and class, how the wine establishment hated him, why Pinot Noir isn’t a complex and brilliant grape, as people say it is, touring with Glenda Jackson and discovering Australian wine, why points don’t help consumers, climate change and the future, where he’d plant a vineyard, plus much more.
More information at wine-conversation.com
The one tasting no wine writer will ever miss, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. A stunning debut of the Domaine’s Corton-Charlemagne.
How good is Bordeaux 2019 now that it is in bottle? Sarah Kemp talks to Bordeaux expert Jane Anson, who has just reviewed 700 wines for her new website www.janeanson.com. She gives her candid view on the vintage’s quality, names her favourite wines, and puts the vintage in context with other notable vintages of the decade.
John Stimpfig discusses dry January, how beneficial is it? Why 2021 was a record year for wine investors. Elin McCoy on the news from Napa plus no/low alcohol wines, Elin bravely tastes on our behalf and Jane Anon is back to Saint Emilion for more news on the troubled 2022 classification.
Dan Petroski of Massican Winery talks to Elin McCoy about how he left the world of magazines in New York to become a celebrated Napa Valley winemaker, first at Larkmead Vineyards, and now at his own winery. Massican. where he produces white wines inspired by Northern Italy. They talk about Napa beyond Cabernet, engaging the new consumer, and much more.
Farewell to Anthony Barton, one of the wine world’s most beloved producers. My personal recollections of a man I simply adored.
Baltazar Sánchez, the Chairman of the historic Chilean estate Vina Santa Rita, talks to Sarah Kemp about how Casa Real came to be one of Chile’s flagship wines. They discuss the decision to create Casa Real in 1989, whether it will remain 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, why they decided to join La Place de Bordeaux, and the company’s hopes for Casa Real’s future.
Find out more at: wine-conversation.com
Learnt so much about the wines of Israel listening to Tal Sunderland-Cohen talking to Jane Anson. Now determined to hunt down some of the wines made from indigenous grapes. Love the thought I could be tasting the same flavours as people 4000 years ago. Liquid history.
Find out more at: wine-conversation.com
Since 1842 Tanners Wine Merchants have been promoting the wines of Bordeaux. Sarah Kemp talks to James Tanner, the fourth generation of his family to run this independent wine merchant about his views on Bordeaux past and present. He talks about his earliest Bordeaux memories, the wines he loves and advice for newcomers to this famous region.
As the Wine Conversation celebrates its first anniversary John, Elin and Sarah look back at the big wine stories of 2021 and name the year’s best wine books. Elin looks at how the hit TV series Succession uses wine to signal character’s intentions, and Jane Anson reveals her favourite wines of the year. All in Omnibus 11 released today. Happy Christmas to all TWC listenters!
75% of Bordeaux wines’ sales (and 95% Bordeaux Grands Crus’) are facilitated by a courtier. Jane Anson talks to Margaux Brengel of Bureau Levèque Grands Vin du Monde about the role of the courtier, past and present. A rare insight into how Bordeaux’s three-tiered system works.
Bill Harlan talks to Elin McCoy in our series “Great Wine Lives” about how he devised a 200-year plan to create a first growth in California. Bill talks about planting Harlan Estate in Napa on raw land in the foothills, the trip to Bordeaux and Burgundy which changed his perspective, and handing over to the next generation. Listen now to hear his remarkable story.
More information at wine-conversation.com
Sarah Kemp talks to Marchese Lamberto Frescobaldi the 30th generation of his family to make wine, in our series “Great Wine Lives.” Listen in to hear about his childhood in Tuscany, how he learnt about wine in the US, his partnership with Tim Mondavi and his amazing project making wine with the prisoners on Gorgona Island.
More information at wine-conversation.com
As Château Mouton Rothschild reveal their latest label, by Icelandic-Danish artist Olafur Eliasson, Jane Anson talks to Sarah Kemp about how the label series at Mouton came about, and the extraordinary lengths the family goes to when securing the world’s greatest artists.
Find out more at: wine-conversation.com
There’s lots to talk about this month on Omnibus Ten – the wine heist of the century, more lawsuits in Saint Emilion, concerns about bottlenecks in the wine supply chain, matching wines with vegan menus, the new “La La” from the Guigals, and much more. Listen in for the latest wine news and unfiltered views.
Find out more at wine-conversation.com
Jasper Morris MW talks about the second edition of his book, “Inside Burgundy,” and what has changed since the first edition 11 years ago. Listen to him discuss how producers are changing viticultural and cellar practices to combat climate change, plus which vintages to drink and which to keep, and where you can find value – unmissable for any Burgundy lover.
More information at wine-conversation.com
In our series “Great Wine Lives” Elin McCoy interviews the iconoclastic maverick Californian winemaker Randall Grahm. Tune in to hear him talk about his extraordinary life, how he started out wanting to make Pinot, the Bonny Doom years, the death of the cork dinner, his latest vineyard Popelouchum and why he has teamed up with Gallo to make “The Language of Yes”.
More information at www.wine-conversation.com
As the world leaders gather for COP26, Jane Anson talks to Jeremy Cukierman MW about his new book “Quel Vin Pour Demain?” which looks at the short and long-term impact of climate change on the wine industry. A timely discussion on a topic that affects every producer today.
Find out more at: wine-conversation.com
Why are Bordeaux wines sales up 21% year-on-year in the US despite the tariffs? Elin McCoy investigates Americans’ renewed love affair with Bordeaux, and finds out from the top US retailers which châteaux are selling best and who is today’s Bordeaux poster boy or girl.
Brian St Pierre reviews South of Somewhere by Robert V. Camuto.
In our series “The Next Generation” Elin McCoy talks to Vitalie Taittinger about taking over from her father as President at Champagne Taittinger. She describes her childhood in Reims, her inspiration for joining the company and her vision for its future.
Find out more at: wine-conversation.com
Who knew that the Irish were responsible for modern Bordeaux? Listen in to hear Jane Anson’s fascinating interview with Professor Charles Ludington who talks about how the Irish played a crucial role in developing the commerce and the style of Bordeaux wine.
More information at wine-conversation.com
Hugely impressed with the current vintages from Siepi. No wonder Italy is the current star of the fine wine market.
Elin McCoy assesses the quality and quantity of the 2021 vintage in Europe and the US, John Stimpfig looks at the Liv-ex 2021 classification’s winners and losers, plus the lawsuit in St Emilion, sale of Jancisrobinson.com, Napa’s elaborate tasting rooms, and more, lively discussions in this month’s episode.
The UK’s independent wine merchants are the source of the best value for money wines you can buy. The recent Bunch tasting demonstrated why. Find out some of the star wines they were showing.
On the eve of launching her own website, www.janeanson.com, Jane Anson talks to Sarah Kemp about why she has decided to leave Decanter to launch a site devoted to the wines of Bordeaux and the wines traded through the Place de Bordeaux. Discover the content she is planning, her views on En Primeur, the biggest challenge Bordeaux faces, and her favourite châteaux and vintages.
Find out more at: wine-conversation.com
Elin McCoy talks to Sarah Kemp about the increasing number of animals being used in various (and often ingenious) ways in vineyards around the world. As more people are seeking more methods of improving organic and biodynamic viticulture, animals – and perhaps not the usual suspects – are proving effective.
Find out more at: wine-conversation.com
Justin Gibbs, co-founder of Liv-ex talks to Sarah Kemp about the 2020 Bordeaux En Primeur campaign which has now finished. Listen in to find out how it went, which châteaux did well, why some didn’t, merchants and critics’ reactions and the big question of today – how much stock is being released by the châteaux and what this means for the future of En Primeur.
Biblical times, fire and floods in the vineyards around the world. Listen to the latest wine news in Omnibus Eight – Jane Anson, Elin McCoy and John Stimpfig report on the big wine stories happening now.
Rosemary George MW has been visiting Chablis for over 40 years and has written three books on the region. Listen to her talk to Sarah Kemp about why it is her favourite wine, how its changed, her favourite producers and vintages and the issues it faces today. Great insights from one of the world’s leading Chablis experts.
Find out more at wine-conversation.com.
What does it take to buy an unknown Napa estate and restore it to greatness? Elin McCoy talks to Juan Pablo Torres-Padilla about how he came to buy the Sullivan Rutherford Estate, why he has replanted it with Merlot, and his vision for the estate’s future.
More information at wine-conversation.com
Listen to Tom Gearing CEO of Cult Wines, the leading global wine investment company, talk to Elin McCoy in the second of our “Investing and collecting” series. What should you buy? Is Bordeaux still important? What are the upcoming regions and wineries? All answered in the latest Wine Conversation between Tom Gearing and Elin McCoy – great insights for new and experienced collectors.
Find out more at wine-conversation.com
Omnibus Seven is full of politics and controversy this month – Jane Anson on why Ausone and Cheval Blanc are leaving the Saint Emilion classification, Champagne industry’s fury at Putin’s new wine law, new research says sulphites aren’t to blame for allergies plus revolutionary paper bottles, $950 wine tours, Bordeaux 2020 campaign and lots more.
Find out more at wine-conversation.com
In the second of our series “The next generation” Maya Dalla Valle talks to Elin McCoy about taking over as head winemaker at her family’s cult Napa winery. She discusses what she learnt on her internships at Petrus, Latour and Ornellaia and how she decided to convert from organic to biodynamic farming after returning from Bordeaux.
Find out more at: wine-conversation.com
World-renowned photographer Andy Katz took his son Jesse everywhere with him as a child and ignited his passion to become a winemaker. Today he is one of America’s hottest young winemakers, he made the wine for Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel’s wedding and crafted the highest-ever price fetched for an auction wine. He and his father own cult winery Aperture Cellars near Healdsburg in Sonoma. Listen to Jane Anson talk to them about their remarkable story – where it is “all about the art.”
Find out more at wine-conversation.com
The most exciting new regions in South America? Leading South America expert Patricio Tapia names Chubut in Argentina, Malleco and Osorno in Chile and Maldonado in Uruguay. Patricio talks to John Stimpfig about these pioneering regions and their brilliant producers.
More information at wine-conversation.com
A frank and fascinating interview with Peter Vinding-Diers, the revolutionary winemaker whose autobiography “Viking in the Vineyard” has just been published. From South Africa to pioneering indigenous yeast at Ch Rahoul, becoming the first flying winemaker and now Mount Etna where he is experimenting again.
More information at www.wine-conversation.com/conversations/great-wine-lives-peter-vinding-diers
France’s Priorat? Rosemary George MW talks to Sarah Kemp about the wines of Roussillon. She argues they should be as well-known as some of the stars of Priorat, and discusses her exciting discoveries in this overlooked wine region.
Snoop Dogg has just launched one, George Clooney wants one, top Bordeaux estates are buying in, why everyone wants Rosé. Elin McCoy investigates, plus meteorite corkscrews, the wine Napoleon didn’t receive just sold, and much, much more.
With cryptocurrency becoming more mainstream (over 10% of Americans own it) how is the wine industry getting involved? Jane Anson investigates and talks to Flavien Darius Pommier of Ch Darius and Louis de Bonnecase of BTC Wine who are the wine world’s crypto pioneers.
John Stimpfig talks to Sarah Abbott MW a woman on a mission to galvanise wine lovers to value great old vines and their wines. Find out why old vine vineyards are important and what she and others are doing to save our vinous heritage.
Does having bees in your vineyard result in better wine? Elin McCoy finds out. Award-winning sommelier Terry Kandylis recommends the best Greek wines while John Stimpfig looks into robotic sommeliers, and Alder Yarrow lets rip on why wine aerators are the scourge of the earth, plus all the latest wine news.
Elin McCoy talks to Will Harlan and Cory Empting who are stepping up to manage California’s cult estates Harlan Estate and Bond as Managing Director and Managing Director of Winemaking respectively; they had both earlier been working together at Promontory, also owned by Bill Harlan.
Sarah Kemp talks to Bordeaux expert Jane Anson about En Primeur and the 2020 vintage, which is she is in the middle of reviewing.
Sarah Kemp talks to Anne Krebiehl MW, the author of The Wines of Germany, which won the 2020 Louis Roederer Wine Book of the Year award.
How do you make a wine museum interesting? Jane Anson talks to Gary Shelley from Casson Mann, the man behind the designs at the Cité du Vin in Bordeaux and Pressoria, the new “Centre for Sensory Interpretation of Champagne,” which is shortly to be opened in the village of Ay in the former Pommery pressoir.
Brian St Pierre reviews Château Lafite: The Almanac, 600 pages covering 150 vintages!
Berenice Lurton talks about making the first dry wine in the history of Ch Climens, Asphodele. Recorded a week before the terrible news that Climens had been hit by frost and lost 99% of its buds.
In Omnibus Four Australia’s top wine writer Huon Hooke talks about which region and producers are exciting him, Elin McCoy takes a hard look at sustainability, marketing hype or wine’s future? Plus news from John Stimpfig and much more.
John Stimpfig talks to leading South African producer Bruce Jack, one of the titans of the South African wine industry.
The Return of Petrus. Sarah Kemp talks to Jane Anson, the only journalist at the tasting of the wine that just returned from space, which was revealed to be Petrus 2000.
Brian St Pierre reviews Jim Clarke’s book Wines of South Africa and finds “it’s a book to be read not dipped into”.
In the first of our new series on “Collecting and Investing,” Elin McCoy, our US editor, talks to Jamie Ritchie, Worldwide Head of Wine for Sotheby’s.
Jane Anson talks to Paul Symington of Symington Ports and Chairman of Primum Familiae Vini (PVF), an association of 12 of the world’s most historic wine producers.
If you want to win at Scrabble become a wine buff. From our new discovery “Cloop”, to grape names with high scoring points, Brian St Pierre reveals the words which will set you on the winning path.
Farewell to Steven. Sarah Kemp looks back on her great partnership and friendship with Steven Spurrier.
Rosi Hanson talks to Sarah Kemp on how menus have changed in Burgundy, from hearty Burgundian fare to lighter dishes featuring more local produce. They discuss the catalysts for change, including oeno-tourism, grower wines and Asia.
Find out more at wine-conversation.com.
Sarah Kemp talks to Bordeaux expert Jane Anson and Kristian Nooitgedagt of Eleanor Wine, in Amsterdam, about the highly acclaimed 2010 Bordeaux vintage.
In an exclusive podcast interview, Jane Anson talks to Nicolas Gaume, one of the two founders of Space Cargo Unlimited, about his extraordinary mission: Sending 12 bottles of Bordeaux wine and 320 Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon vines into space for 438 days to live on the International Space Station.
John Stimpfig discovers a new wine word for Scrabble, Matt Walls recommends the best Rhône appellations and producers in 2019 vintage, and discusses where to find great value. Elin McCoy and Sarah Kemp look at the different wine glasses on the market and ask how many wine glasses do you actually need? Plus, the latest wine news from around the world.
The Wine Conversation takes a deep dive into the 2009 Bordeaux vintage. Sarah Kemp talks to Bordeaux expert Jane Anson and Justin Gibbs of Live-Ex about this remarkable vintage to assess whether it has lived up to its reputation 12 years on.
Sarah Kemp talks to one of China’s most renowned winemakers, Emma Gao, who is the chief winemaker at her family estate Silver Heights.
Sarah Kemp and John Stimpfig discuss the impact of Brexit, John examines the “Clean Wine” movement, The Barolo Boys talk to us about all things Barolo, and Elin McCoy looks back on 2020, plus Australian Riesling recommendations from John.
Jane Anson talks to Axel Borg, who has just retired from being the Chief Librarian of the UC Davis Wine Library (his official title is Distinguished Wine and Food Science Bibliographer Emeritus) for over thirty years.
Sarah Kemp talks to Anthony Hanson MW about the 2019 vintage. They discuss the quality of the vintage and how the lack of the annual January Burgundy tastings will affect the wine producers, the trade and consumers.
Now that streaming offers us a seemingly endless buffet of movies and TV shows, it seems every taste can be catered for, including gastronomy.
The story behind how Australia became a world-class wine producer, the people, the stories, the setbacks and the triumphs.
Sarah Kemp and John Stimpfig 2020 news review, Elin McCoy on the impact of the Northern California fires, Best new wine books and novels, Jane Anson's favourite spot in Saint Emilion and the best Sparkling Wines and Champagne for Christmas.
The first in our series of Great Wine Lives, we speak to the legendary Jean-Michel Cazes.
Jean-Michel was born in the Bordeaux region, where his family owned the fifth-growth Pauillac estate, Château Lynch‑Bages. When he left school to study engineering in Paris he didn’t think he was going to return. The wine industry was struggling and he saw little future. However, he did return and was a leading figure not only in implementing modern wine techniques, but also, introducing Bordeaux to wine-lovers all over the world.
Whatever the occasion, a glass of bubbly will pick you up, and we all owe it to ourselves after a tough year to bring out our best bottles of fizz.
Listen to Steven Spurrier discuss his first trip to Uruguay – find out which grapes he thought had a future, the producers he admires, and why he thinks the wines are more European than South American.
The world’s greatest artists have appeared on the labels of Château Mouton Rothschild. Sarah Kemp finds out the stories behind the labels and how they decide on which artist will appear.
Listen to Hugh Johnson talk about his magnus opus, “The Story of Wine,” which has just been republished by the Académie du Vin Library. Sarah Kemp interviews him about his remarkable book, which is full of stories from Noah to the present day.
Great wine is made in the vineyard but the decisions taken on which lots make the final blend of the Grand Vin is crucial not only to the quality but the finances of the estate (as the Grand Vin can go for up to three times as much as the second wine).
Listen to Lilian Barton Sartorius of Ch Léovillle Barton, Hervé Berland of Ch Montrose and Eric Kohler of Ch Lafite discuss what they look for when blending the world’s greatest wines.
Alpha Estate, one of Greece’s most renowned wineries, lies in the remote wilderness of the Amyndeon appellation in the Florina region.
The first in our series of Great Wine Lives, we speak to the legendary Jean-Michel Cazes.
Jean-Michel tells us how in 1973 he returns to Pauillac with his young family to join his father in running the insurance agency, as well as the family properties of Château Lynch Bages and Les Ormes-de-Pez. His father had suggested selling the châteaux as they had lost money for many years, but Jean-Michel persuaded him to keep them on. It was the start of a new era in Bordeaux.
Jane Anson gives her personal recommendations of where to go and what to see if you only have 48 hours in Bordeaux. From visiting the building where the 1855 classification was signed, to heading out into the vineyards, Jane reveals her ideal itinerary for wine lovers.
The first in our series of Great Wine Lives, we speak to the legendary Jean-Michel Cazes.
Jean-Michel talks about how he joined his friend Claude Bébéar to create AXA Millésimes and buys some of the world’s most sought-after names; Château Pichon-Baron, the second-growth Pauillac estate; the legendary Port house, Quinta do Noval; and the Tokaji-producing Disznókő estate in Hungary – all whilst running his own family businesses which were rapidly expanding.
Like many others who have been fortunate enough to visit, I fell deeply in love with Argentina. Could there have been a better start to my love affair than dinner at 1844? I doubt it.
Sarah Kemp remembers Michael Broadbent, author, auctioneer and friend for 30 years who died earlier this year. In this episode she talks about his ground-breaking work and his wise advice on how to approach fine wine. Sarah remembers some of his great columns for Decanter magazine, including the one in which he declared his ambition to make love in the great vineyards of the world, which won him the Glenfiddich Wine Writer of the Year award. She looks back on how his career started and how he managed to write his own job description to launch the Christie's Wine Department in 1966. A tribute to a remarkable man who wrote the seminal guide to wine tasting and influenced a generation of wine lovers.
Television loves chefs, chefs happily reciprocate, cookbook publishers are happy, and the buzz keeps buzzing. Meanwhile, some very good restaurants, especially those that emphasize wine, quietly sail along under the radar, often surpassing noisier expectations.