The Blog on alanarnette.com: Recent Episodes
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Everest 2024 might be remembered for summits, politics, deaths, ignored rules, near misses and disturbing allegations of sexual misconduct. It's difficult to put all this in a headline, but I believe the Everest guiding industry is at a Rubicon - a point of no return.
Not to be lost in this mix is the joy and satisfaction felt by hundreds of summiteers. They worked and trained diligently to celebrate standing on the top of the world for only a few minutes. It's funny how you can work so long for a goal, and the moment is over in a blink, but the memory lasts a lifetime—well done to all who summited, to those who showed up.
Once again, the Sherpas proved they dominated the mountain with impressive altitude performance. The Himalayan Database shows that between 1950 and 2023, 6,097 Sherpas have summited Everest compared to 5,899 members, and that gap is growing each year. However, more foreigners have died than Sherpas, 197 compared to 118. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Season Summary – Everest at a Rubicon first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The 2024 Everest season ended well for the Alpenglow group, but sadly, there was another death on the Nepal side. 2024 was a challenging year that may change the trajectory of climbing Everest, especially on the Nepal side. The Icefall Doctors are removing all the ladders in the Western Cwm and Khumbu Icefall, thus officially closing the season on that side. I'll do my annual season summary in a few days. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Last Summits of the Season and Another Death first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The week's activity on Everest revealed significant issues for climbers. While there were hundreds of summits and several deaths, it wasn't pretty. Some Tibet-side teams summited. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Sabotage or Self-Promotion – Cut Ropes? first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The week's activity on Everest revealed significant issues for climbers. While there were hundreds of summits and several deaths, it wasn't pretty. Some Tibet-side teams summited. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Weekend Update May 25: Season nears the End with Summits and Death first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Summits continue on Everest, but the season may end soon as cyclones build in the Bay of Bengal and the monsoon moves in. We saw thirty-five more summits and, sadly, yet another death on May 23rd. Only one team going for the summit tonight. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: More Summits and Deaths as Season Winds Down first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Summits continue, but multiple climbers are missing near the Hillary Step after some sort of route collapse. Through May 22, Everest has seen 379 summits, compromising 214 Sherpas, or 56% and 165 members or 43%. The largest summit days so far were May 19, with 100 summits, and May 21, with 104 summits. Nepal issued Everest permits to 414 foreigners. Perhaps another 60 to 100 people may summit on May 23, and activity will quiet down quite a bit. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: More Summits and More Missing Climbers first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Taking some personal liberty during this Everest 2024 season coverage, I want to share my 2011 Everest summit with an overview, narrative and Podcast. I hope you enjoy it. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Alan Remember’s his 2011 Summit first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
I used to call the weather windows "Summit Waves," but they are more like Tsunamis with the occasional puddles this year. Usually, we see hundreds of summits each day, but this year, it can be as few as two people for the entire day. The summit winds continue to be fickle this spring. May 21, 2024, was a huge day for Everest summits, with an estimated 160 summits, and tomorrow may exceed it, with some estimates of over 300 climbers positioned at the South Col. One death was reported, but I have not been able to confirm it. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Summit Tsunamis and Puddles. An unconfirmed Death first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The weather continues to be fickle this spring. Unexpectedly high winds caused a few teams to cancel their move to higher camps while others pushed through and summited. But the fear of crowding has emerged with a vengeance. May 23 has become the new target summit day for many teams.#everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Crowds, Wind and Summits first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
As expected, with low winds, scores of climbers are summiting Everest. This Sunday, May 19th, morning, it's estimated that over 100 people stood on top of the world. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Summit WEEK! first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The week started well, but when the winds picked up, as forecasted, teams took risky chances that turned deadly. Now, with a better forecast, hundreds of climbers are positioned to summit over the next few days. Tibet-side teams are in place and looking at summit plans. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Weekend Update May 18: Windy Summits and Death first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Expedition operator 8k Expeditions found the bodies of their clients Usukhjargal Tsedendamba, 31, near the South Summit, around 8,550m and his climbing partner, Purevsuren Lkhagvajav, 53, near the Balcony at 8400 meters. More climbers summited on May 13th and 15th, taking the total to 97 Everest summits from the Nepal side and the Tibetan rope team on the Tibet side. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Missing Everest Climbers Confirmed Dead, More Summits first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
High winds were in the forecast from multiple services and internet sites, but some teams either didn't believe them or ignored them and made a summit push on Tuesday, May 15 - around fifty people turned back, and two climbers have been missing for days. Almost every team is targeting this weekend for their summit push; thus, we can anticipate significant crowding. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Risky Decision Making first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Multiple media outlets report that two Mongolian climbers are missing. Usukhjargal Tsedendamba, 31 and Purevsuren Lkhagvajav, 53, were using base camp-only services from 8K Expeditions and climbing together without supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support. They left for the summit from the South Col at 8:45 a.m. on May 13 and haven't been heard from since. High winds were reported at 70-80 kmh/45-50 mph. A search team has been dispatched by 8K. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Everest Climbers Missing on Summit Push first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
As many as fifty people made the summit of Everest on Monday morning, May 13th. Nearby, Lhotse also saw summits. Teams arrived at the base camp on the Tibet side, while a French climber sadly lost his life on Makalu. Winds are coming, so the action will slow for a few days. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: More Summits, More Death first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The first summiteers on Everest marked the beginning of the climbing rush. The rope fixers summited a few days ago, and over thirty-five climbers summited today. Two climbers added to their summit collections to extend their records. Teams arrived at up base camp on the Tibet side, while a respected Sherpa sadly lost his life on Makalu. We're now entering the summit phase of the spring climbing season. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Weekend Update May 13: First Summits first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The final chapters of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, Part 15, drop today with chapters 49 and 50. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 16, our protagonist, Harper wrapped her arms around Claudia, watching the helicopter disappear over the top lip of the Khumbu Icefall, Pablo gently swinging from a rope hanging from the belly of the chopper.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
The post Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 16–Home and The End first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Sherpas had fixed the route to the summit on the Nepal side as of 8:35 p.m., May 10—exactly when they predicted about a week ago. This opens the Southeast Ridge to about 600 people, clients and support, to make their summit attempts. The Tibetan rope-fixing team summited on May 7, opening that side to about 100 climbers. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Rope Team Summits Nepal Side–Game On! first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
You know you've made your name in the climbing world when Reinhold Messner calls you “the best high-altitude climber in the world.” Today, Steve runs one of the most successful broad-based coaching services. Uphill Athlete, founded by Steve House and Scott Johnston in 2014, has become synonymous with all things mountain sports, from trail running and mountaineering to ski racing. I caught up with Steve for a wide-ranging Podcast.
The post Everest 2024: Interview with Uphill Athlete’s Founder Steve House first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
We have the first death on an 8000-meter peak of the season; a Sherpa with Seven Summits Trek died while descending from Makalu's summit. Teams are getting in position for Nepal side summits while more teams enter Tibet for Everest. Remember that both Cho Oyu and Shishapangma are closed to foreigners for climbing this spring. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: First 8000er Death first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Part 15 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 46, 47, and 48. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 15, our protagonist, Harper along with Mingma, took a few more steps towards a snow bench and the prayer flag-covered summit. They could go no higher. Mingma keyed the radio and let out a yell, “Summittttttttttttt.”
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
The post Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 15–Summit!! first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
We have the first Everest summits of the spring 2024 season. Adrian Ballinger of Alpenglow, now in Chengdu on his way to Chinese Base Camp on the Tibet side, tells me the Tibetan rope fixing team summited today, May 7, opening the route to all climbers.. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: First Everest Summits first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The Himalayan season continues pretty much normal while we have summits on a few of the "other 8000ers. China has issued climbing permits for their side of Everest. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Normal Season with more 8000er Summits first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Part 14 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 43, 44, and 45. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 14, our protagonist, Harper, is on her summit push with Mingma, her personal Sherpa. Dawa checks in on them. "Mingma heard the radio crackle, "Mingma, where are you?" It was Dawa monitoring the team from the South Col with three other Climbing Sherpas. "On the Ridge above the Balcony," Mingma told the Sidar."
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
The post Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 14–Summit Push first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The biggest news from Everest is the lack of news. Typhone-force winds strafed the mountain like a summer hail storm in Colorado. Reports of forty or more tents were damaged at Camp 2. Despite this, a few teams continued their rotations, and more made plans as hopes increased the fixed ropes would reach the summit next week. The high winds of last week have calmed, and there is no typhoon activity of substance in the Bay of Bengal. Let's hope for a May of long weather windows! #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Weekend Update May 5: Winds Calm, Climbing Continues first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Part 13 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 39, 40, and 41. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a FICTIONAL team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 13, our protagonist, Harper, experiences climbing above Camp 3 for the first time. She moved in lock-step behind Mingma, who led the train. He set a steady but swift pace, knowing that speed is your friend in these conditions and keeps you warm.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
The post Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 13–Climbing Above Camp 3 first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
While tents were being blown around at Camp 2, the Nepal Supreme Court issued a series of well-intended vague rules that potentially will join a long list of ignored rules. The largest and most well-connected operators have long learned that doing whatever they want has no consequences other than making more profit.
I applaud the authorities for the WAG bag experiment this season and their RECCO program, even if they did not think through it. Also, the Supreme Court ruling effort is well-intended and may be the start of meaningful changes to enhance safety and environmental protection. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Nepal Supreme Court Passes Climbing Rules first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Part 12 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 37, 38, and 38. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a FICTIONAL team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 12, our protagonist, Harper was confident and ready to get going. Sitting around base camp, even with the occasional hike to Pumori or Gorak Shep, was getting old. The conversation around the dining table was also getting old. It was time.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
The post Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 12–Summit Plan for the Team first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Everest's summit is slammed by hurricane-force winds, causing most teams to hunker down or pause rotations for a few days. However, the fixed ropes have reached the South Col. China confirms it will open the Nepal border on May 7th. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: High Winds first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Commercial teams have begun their acclimatization rotations with climbs to Camps 1 and 2 in the Western Cwm. The Icefall route is more complicated this spring, and some climbers take ten hours or more to reach the first Camp. The fixed ropes are now well up the Lhotse Face. As of this update, no Everest teams have entered Tibet. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Weekend Update April 28: Teams Into the Western Cwm first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
I'm getting reports from climbers who completed their first rotations to Camp 1 and are now back at Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side that the Icefall is quite challenging this year. Some say it takes ten hours to navigate the route to Camp 1, which has an amazing number of "zig-zags." The number of ladders is extremely low, under five. Another team drops climbing in Tibet. And no search on Shishapangma this spring. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Icefall Misery first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Part 11 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 31 and 32. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 11, our protagonist, Harper, gets excited as tGuide John Paul tells the team, "Good news, everyone. The first commercial team summited last night. The storm held off, and they threaded the needle. 20 Japanese members with 22 Climbing Sherpas.” John Paul told his team over breakfast. “Japan has very strong climbers.”
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
The post Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 11–First Summits first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
This is the late April Everest 2024 Weekend Update. The headlines are significantly more positive than last weekend: Permits are a bit higher, which is good for the local economy but not so good for the mountain. The fixed ropes, aka the route, are all the way to Camp 2, thus opening the path for Sherpas to establish the upper camps and for clients to begin acclimatizing. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Climb Here, But Not There! first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Part 10 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 31 and 32. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 10, our protagonist, Harper, takes the Lhotse Face, "
Wanting to pass another climber, Harper makes eye contact with him. No words were spoken; only a nod was exchanged. Harper unclipped her 'biner while keeping the jumar attached. Harper reached around him to clip the 'biner back onto the rope ahead of him. He stood still not wanting to make any movement that might throw both of them off balance. Harper took a few small steps around him and reached back to unclip the jumar. Now successfully past, Harper reattached the jumar and continued climbing higher. "
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
The post Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 10–Climbing the Lhotse Face first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
This is the late April Everest 2024 Weekend Update. The headlines are significantly more positive than last weekend: Permits are a bit higher, which is good for the local economy but not so good for the mountain. The fixed ropes, aka the route, are all the way to Camp 2, thus opening the path for Sherpas to establish the upper camps and for clients to begin acclimatizing. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Weekend Update April 21: Route to C2, Permits Catch Up first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Part 9 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 28, 29 and 30. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 9, our protagonist, Harper, and the team discuss what day they should target for their Everest summit, "Claudia smiled in admiration, "So, May 19th, it is!" Aaron dropped his head, deep in concentration. Dutch took center stage, "Today is May 2nd, so that's 17 days from now. We have to get back up to C2 then overnight at C3, and back here." Michael leaned in, "I think we need four days for the C3 rotation and at least six days for the summit push and return. That's ten days on the mountain, meaning we have seven days for rest and weather delays. Pretty tight."
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
The post Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 9–Summit Date Planned first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Part 8 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 25, 26 and 27. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 8, our protagonist, Harper, and the team arrive at Camp 2 to continue acclimatization. The Mt. Everest Guides lead, John Paul, begins to explain how acclimatization works: "'Acclimatization' is a strange word that evokes many emotions. Fundamentally it means adapting the human body to an altitude where it was not designed to survive. Even though the percentage of oxygen in the air on Everest's summit is the same as on a beach in Rio, there are fewer molecules available to inhale. That's because there is less atmospheric pressure; thus, the oxygen, nitrogen, and carbon dioxide molecules spread out. It's the opposite of what a diver experiences with the pressure increasing as a diver goes deeper. Harper feels more weight, more pressure, whereas a climber has less available oxygen. That's why it's called 'thin air.’"
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
The post Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 8–Suffering at Camp 2 first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Good news from Everest: the route through the Khumbu Icefall is complete through Camp 2, around 21,000'/6400. This opens the route for Sherpas to begin building C1/2 and for members to begin their acclimatization rotations shortly thereafter. Everest permits lag last year's record of 478. As of April 15, 2024, the government issued 274 permits to foreigners compared to 338 in 2023 as of the same date; this is 20% less. While bad for business, this is good for the mountain. #everest2024
The post Everest 2024: Route to Camp 2 & April 18–A Day of Remembrance first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Part 7 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 22, 23 and 24. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 7, our protagonist, Harper, and the team climb through the Icefall and into the Western Cwm. The team's oldest member, Jim, is struggling. “Any advice?” He asked their guide, John Paul, who had been close by his side all morning. “Slow, steady, and make sure you are always clipped in. No need to rush. We are making good time.” Jim appreciated the positive spin. #everest2024
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
The post Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 7–Into the Cwm first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Part 6 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 17, 18 and 19. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 4, our protagonist, Harper, makes her first trip into the Khumbu Icefall. She was nervous following Mingma, her climbing Sherpa, "Mingma looked at her as Harper took a second carabiner off her harness. He went across first. Clipping in ‘biners to the two safety ropes on either side of the ladder, he stepped onto the first rung, then the second and without so much as a pause, he was across, standing there staring at her. Harper could almost hear him in a deep John Wayne drawl; “OK, kid, I showed you how to do it, now get on with it.” #everest2024
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
The post Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 6–Into the Icefall first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Norwegian Kristin Harila, 37, Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa summited all fourteen 8000ers in three months and 1 day (92 days.) The first was Shishapangma on April 26, 2023, and the last K2 on July 27, 2023. In 2022, Harila summited twelve of the fourteen, but China refused them entry into Tibet to attempt Shishapangma and Cho Oyu thus, she returned this year to complete her project.
Harila's journey was not with controversy. They included switching teams and Sherpas from 2022 to 2023, using helicopters to fly Sherpas to Camp 2 on Manaslu, and the one that caught global attention when a High Altitude Porter, Muhammad Hassan, not climbing with her team died on K2. Her team gave aid, but he died. A video taken hours later showed other climbers, not Harila's team stepping over the dead body on the way to the summit. Harila was widely criticized for his death, yet her team did everything to save his life.
The Pakistani government investigated the incident and posted a detailed report clearing Harila's team of any wrongdoing and gave her photographer, Gabriel Tarso, an “appreciation letter” for his effort to save a life that night. We explore all of these controversies in detail in this podcast. #k2023
The post Podcast Interview with Kristin Harila first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The Pakistani government has issued an exhaustive report on the July 27, 2023, death of Pakistani High Altitude Porter, Mr. Muhammad Hassan. While no one team or individual was found culpable, it exposed deep issues across the mountaineering industry that must be fixed.
It is sad and interesting reading that didn’t find any one person or team solely responsible for his death but haphazard coordination among the operators, ignoring long-established Pakistani climbing rules, and a lack of training and resources. All complicated by a sudden storm at the steepest and most dangerous terrain of the mountain. #k2023
The post K2 2023 Coverage: Harila and Tenjen Cleared on Muhammad Hassan’s Death first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The long-rumored Everest permit fee increase will now happen for the 2025 season. The permit fee for a foreigner will increase from USD $ 11,000 to $15,000. For a Nepali citizen, it will be $568. The increase is still in the proposal phase but appears to be pre-approved. As always, wait to see as Nepal will often float news rules or fees, measure the reaction, and then pull back or never implement the idea if there is bad publicity that may hurt tourism revenue. #everest2024
The post Nepal Increases Fees to Climb Everest first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The K2 season appears to be over, with an estimated 112+ summits by at least six teams. Multiple teams turned back on their summit push due to unstable conditions. Each of Pakistan's five 8000ers saw summits this summer in what could be called a "difficult weather" season. On K2, it felt like there was only one suitable weather window, July 27, and it was mixed. All of the K2 summits used the Abruzzi (SE Ridge) route. At least one team is still planning on a Broad Peak attempt.. #k2023
The post K2 2023 Coverage: Sherpas Dominate K2 first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
It was a difficult night and day on July 27, 2023, on K2. There is at least one reported death. Several teams pushed through, while others felt it was a death trap to summit, and some turned back. A few will try again as the inventory of aspirants clears out. K2 lived up to her reputation. Around seventy people summited. #k2023
The post K2 2023 Coverage: 1 death, Many Turned Back, Many Summited first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
We have K2 2023 summits by the rope team and Kristin Harila with Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa for their last 8000er in 3 months, 13 hours. A massive number of climbers are still to go as long as the weather holds. #k2023
The post K2 2023 Coverage: Kristin Harila & Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa get K2 for their Last 8000er first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering reported his team is on their summit push, hoping to top out on July 27. They will be following the rope team to the summit since they have been delayed by heavy snow the past couple of days. Look for over 150 people to summit if the weather holds, with perhaps another 150 stationed lower on the mountian. #k2023
The post K2 2023 Coverage: Summit Push is On! Harila on Her Last 8000er Push first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Not surprisingly, the weather has moved in, bringing white-out conditions to K2. The rope fixing team was supposed to summit today, Monday, July 24, but we haven't received any updates. Look for a few days' delay at this point beyond July 25-27, when most teams were targeting their summits. #k2023
The post K2 2023 Coverage: Poor Weather Stalls K2 Summit Plans first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The time has come for teams to climb K2 from base camp to the summit. There are about 250 people on the mountain, so it will be interesting to see how potential crowds are managed at the limited campsites and traditional bottleneck areas. The weather forecasts call for consistent light snow with moderate winds; however, this peak is notorious for making its own weather, so nothing is off the table. The teams want to get the fixed ropes to the summit by Monday, July 24, 2023... #k2023
The post K2 2023 Coverage: K2 Summit Push Begins, Kristin Harila gets #13 first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Record summits are happening all over Pakistan this summer, including Broad Peak, GII and even GI. Pakistan has joined Nepal is monetizing their 8000ers with record permits issued this season. Pakistan reportedly issued a record number of climbing permits this year, even after a record 1,937 visitors to the Northern Territories last year. This despite raising the permit for their flagship peak, K2, from $5000 to 12,000 for a seven-member group.. #k2023
The post K2 2023 Coverage: And the Summits Keep Going on BP, GI and GII first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The 2023 Everest spring season is over, and most of the climbers are back home with their families. They're providing an intimate look at their experiences, sharing tears, laughs and holding hands as their loved one reveals their true story. Often are is difficult, as no one likes to see their partner in pain, yet it comes through in their eyes as they describe seeing a dead body or being told the summit push is canceled because of winds. Yet they also share the joy of the summit. While one climbed, the other stayed home, often wondering.
Summit Coach client, Asher Perez, summited Mt. Everest in May with Phil Crampton's Altitude Junkie team. His wife, Elianna Perez stayed home with their one-year-old daughter, wondering. After all, this spring was the deadliest season in history on Everest. This is her story.
#everest2023
The post Everest 2023: An Insider Story first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
In this 2023 Everest season summary, I look at the good and the bad during the deadliest season ever on Everest and the much-needed changes. Plus a narrative on the last Icefall passage and co ing home #everest2023
Nepal issued a record 478 climbing permits to foreigners. Add in one and a half Sherpa supporting each foreigner; over 1,200 people pursued the summit this spring. Fears were rampant of a 2019 repeat with long lines and deaths. The lines never developed, thanks in part to colder weather that sent a higher number of climbers home in mid-season, many with a persistent virus. However, the deaths did, but not due to the record permits or climate change. #everest2023
The post Everest 2023: Season Summary – Deadliest in History first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
It's always tough to characterize an Everest season, so I'll give it a few more days to let everything settle before posting my season summary. But one thing is clear, 2023 is the deadliest season ever, and some routine mountaineering practices are broken. #everest2023
The post Everest 2023: An End to a Tough Season first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
As the Everest spring season nears the end, we see more Everest summits and peak bagging. With at least fifty more summits on Wednesday, May 24, the season is approaching 600 total summits by members and Sherpas. Another climber, this one not using supplemental oxygen, is now considered missing.. #everest2023
The post Everest 2023: Yet Another Death, Missing Not Found – Update Szilard Found first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
As the Everest spring season nears the end, we see more Everest summits and peak bagging. With at least fifty more summits on Wednesday, May 24, the season is approaching 600 total summits by members and Sherpas. Another climber, this one not using supplemental oxygen, is now considered missing.. #everest2023
The post Everest 2023: Last Few Summits and Another Missing first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
As the Everest spring season nears the end, we see more Everest summits and peak bagging. With fifty more summits on Tuesday, May 23, the season is approaching 550 total summits by members and Sherpas. More theft was reported at the South Col. #everest2023
The post Everest 2023: Final Summits? and Another death, now 11 first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Monday, May 22nd, was a windy but good day for summits and records. An estimated fifty more people summited, advancing the season total to close to 500. The season could end this week as winds will become too dangerous. #everest2022
The post Everest 2023: Summits “Records” first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The death toll climbed to ten, perhaps eleven, for the spring 2023 season, with multiple climbers missing. Wednesday, May 24th, may be the last summit day this season. #everest2022
The post Everest 2023: Weekend Update May 21: Now 11 Deaths, Several Missing first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
While summits dwindle as the winds move in for a few days, the dead and missing totals continue to skyrocket. 2023 has the ninth most Everest death total. Season may end next week.
The post Everest 2023: High Winds Stall Most Summits first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Another death on Everest brings the climbing death toll to eight, nine if you count the person who died in Lukla but intended to climb. Close to another 100 summited Friday, May 19th taking the total close to 300, with hundreds more to go as the weather window begins to close. #everest2023
The post Everest 2023: Another Everest Death, More Summits and Frostbite first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Another death on Everest brings the climbing death toll to seven. A collapse in the Icefall has stalled climbers going up and down until the Icefall Docs can fix the route. More than thirty-four summited on Thursday, May 18th, bringing the season total to over 200. #everest2023
The post Everest 2023: More Everest Summits, Seventh Death, Soria Rescued first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering is reporting that problems halfway up the Icefall are delaying climbers from going up from EBC and coming down from their summit pushes. #everest2023
The post Everest 2023: Icefall Problems Delay Climbers first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
With masses of climbers on Everest, today we saw over 100 more summits bringing the season total to over 166 and the sixth death of the season. There were many "records" set as well, some in the beholder's eye. Moldovan climber Victor Brinza died at the South Col on May 17, making the sixth death this season. He was with Nepali operator Himalayan Traverse Adventure.
Kami Rita Sherpa got his twenty-seventh summit, a record while guiding his client, and Kenton Cool got his seventeenth while also guiding his client, setting a record for non-Sherpa summits. Dorji Gyaljen Sherpa was with them. Well over 100 Sherpas have summited Everest over ten times. #everest2023
The post Everest 2023: 100 More Summits, Sixth Everest Death and Carlos Soria, 84, Rescue Underway first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The #Everest2023 season is starting to take shape with guides establishing their base camp, the Icefall Doctors are on their way to EBC.
The post Everest 2023: Icefall Doctors leave for EBC, More Silly Rules first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Podcast: In 2021, British climber Rebecca 'Becks' Ferry had an amazing run on six 8000-meter mountains. This British mother of five children ages 12 to 18 is back in 2023 for Makalu but with a twist - no Os and will run back to Kathmandu from Makalu base camp!
The post Podcast with Rebecca ‘Becks’ Ferry: Running from Makalu first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Podcast: Everest 2023: Welcome to the Season. I expect almost 1,000 total summits broken out by 400-450 foreigners from the Nepal side supported by 450-500 Sherpas. Please follow Along!
The post Podcast: Everest 2023: Welcome to the Season first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
As we get closer to Everest 2023, I've updated my annual post of "How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest?" Prices have risen on both sides, and there is price parity on the Tibet and Nepal sides. Also, I look at some of the most expensive options - it's shocking!
The post How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? – 2023 Edition first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Climbing in winter is always difficult and this season is no different. Lost gear stopped the Cho effort, sickness took out another Manaslu climber, and a brave effort on Dhaulagiri.
The post Winter Himalayan Update first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
"It was the best of times and the worst of times." With all respect to Mr. Charles Dickens, I'm talking about the 2022 climbing year, not the French Revolution in 1775. Oh my, what a year. Hundreds of new people tried out the sport, while old hands showed up after a couple of down years. Operators and countries generated much-needed revenue, and some people accomplished their lifetime dreams.
As I've written several times while covering the high-altitude mountaineering world, I believe history will consider 2022 as an inflection point in the evolution (or devolution) of mountaineering.
The post 2022 in Review: The Year Climbing Changed first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
As we near the end of 2022, high-altitude climbing continues. We have activities in South America, Nepal, and Antarctica. The final summit numbers are in from the Himalayan Database for Everest. It was a record year for the number of Sherpas supporting clients.
The post Climbing Roundup first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Does anyone care that Jane and John Smithe became the first couple from rural Northland to summit Mount Impossible?
The comments posted on my blog show a declining interest in today's climbing world and the highest level of disdain I've seen in covering the climbing world since 1999. And it appears that even the general media world is adjusting. Long-time climbing publications have sold to the lowest bidder. As a result, they are transitioning from print to online publications that feature captivating stories like "The Best Biodegradable Bag for your Poop" or the "Top 10 Ways to Wear Socks."
Climbing forums have plenty of pithy comments citing fast food restaurants on the summits, paved trails, and men (and women) in kilts (and stilts) doing the ordinary. And, of course, a fan favorite, "Getting to the top is optional, getting down is mandatory," where the author thinks they invented the saying (apologies to Mr. Viesturs.) Everyone is a comedian, it appears, even me.
This summer, a reporter researching an Everest story asked me to "explain the difficulty and significance of Barney being number 646th American to summit Everest." I politely explained that even the magazines sold at a grocery store checkout lane wouldn't cover it.
So what's going on?
The post Opinion: The Changing World of Climbing News first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The Chinese refused to make an exception for Norwegian Kristin Harila to attempt Cho Oyu and Shishapangma from Tibet thus ending her current attempt to get all fourte
The post Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: No 8000er 6-Month Record this Season, Ama Dablam continues first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Climbing in the Himalaya continues to set records. Sadly another death. Some previous records are being questions while others continue their pursuits.
The popular 6000 meter Nepal peak, Ama Dablam, 22,349 feet is currently swamped with climbers and their support, some estimates are over 800 will be the final total. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism has officially issued 250 permits to foreigners as of October 19,2022. You can double that for support climbers so we are already at 500. However, as one climber told me, they were there with few people thus far. so like I always say, you can still enjoy climbing Nepal, or Pakistan, if you go at the right time, on the right route wit he right team.
The post Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu and Death first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Only days after a deadly avalanche between Camps 3 and 4 on Manaslu, this Sunday morning, October 2, 2022, Manaslu Base Camp was hit by a new release destroying six camps and 30 tents but no lives. However, one Sherpa died in a different avalanche while descending from Camp 2 to Camp 1. That makes two deaths taken by avalanches this season. Historically, avalanches occur near Manaslu base camp but rarely hit it. Obviously, Manaslu is so loaded that being anywhere on the mountain is a gamble with lives.
The post Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Another Manaslu Avalanche, One Death first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
It's a grim time on Manaslu with bodies being found related and unrelated to the avalanche earlier this week. Some teams have wisely ended their expeditions while others press on. Time will tell if there will more another release given the ongoing snows. Manaslu has experienced heavy snowfall this season. One of the Sherpas managing the route, Yukta Gurung, told The Kathmandu Post the avalanche was triggered by continuous snowfall. “It had snowed unceasingly for 15 days. The area was covered in at least five to six feet of snow; the piled-up snow ultimately gave way triggering the avalanche.”
The post Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Manaslu Avalanche – Bodies Found first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
A major avalanche similar to 2012 occurred high on Manalsu, between Camp 3 and 4, while several teams were climbing higher to be in position for summit bids around September 27 and 28. It appears that Sherpas ferrying loads to Camp 4 took the worst of the avalanche. Poor weather is hampering rescue efforts.
Let me warn readers from the outset that when these incidents occur, the first news is almost always incorrect or at least incomplete. The details will become clear as teams return to camps and communications are established. According to my sources on the mountain, it is unclear if the season will continue. It's too early to make that decision.
The Himalayan Times reports that "As many as 12 climbers were injured ... Sherpa climbers from Seven Summit Treks, Satori Adventure, Imagine Nepal Treks, Elite Expedition, and 8K Expeditions are among others were injured. Gorkha Police said the deceased has been identified as Anup Rai."
The Kathmandu Post reported that Icefall doctor Yukta Gurung, who is at the base camp, said that the avalanche was triggered by continuous snowfall. “It had snowed unceasingly for 15 days. The area was covered in at least five to six feet of snow; the piled-up snow ultimately gave way triggering the avalanche.”
Seven Summits Treks reported in with injuries, "We witnessed an avalanche this afternoon between C3-C4 while team were reopening the trail to C4 in Manaslu. More than 13 climbers (including Sherpas) were swept along with the avalanche. 4 Sherpas, including 2 from our team need urgent rescue from higher camp, however rest of all have minor injuries. "
Slowly teams are checking in. At the time of this post, around 10:00 PM Monday, September 26, Nepal time, we know that Furtunebach, Climbing the Seven Summits, Elite Expeditions, Imagine Nepal, Madison Mountaineering, Pioneer Adventure, and Wild Yak have all checked in with their teams safe.
The post Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Manaslu Avalanche – Injuries and One Death first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
An open letter to Mountaineering Policy Decision Makers,
After each season, pictures emerge showing trash left by climbers and long queues of climbers seeking their time on the summit. The public demands changes to protect the mountains. The operators announce clean-up campaigns and ask for donations. Countries respond with new rules. However, history shows these new rules are ghosts and are often ignored. There is time before the 2023 season to make significant changes. Please use this time to save your mountains and the tourism industry.
The post Opinion: An Open Letter to Mountaineering Policy Decision Makers first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The Manaslu 2022 season is moving nicely, with the first client summits for the season on Thursday, September 22, 2022. There are a record number of people there, with 400 foreigners with permits and an equal or greater r number of support climbers, so it's crowded. This means there is an opportunity for more trash, crowds, and poor practices.
In this podcast, I talk about my 2013 experience on Manaslu plus how we can take better care of our mountains.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
The post Podcast: Manaslu 2022 and Taking Care of our Mountains first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
While most teams were waiting in base camp for the recent snowfall to settle, a few pushed on, breaking trail and either pulling the fixed ropes out or putting in new ones to reach the true summit of Manaslu. There is no word on the route was used but Kristin Harila, Pasdawa Sherpa, Dawa Ongchu Sherpa, with 8k Expeditions, were one of the first to summit. They will continue their quest to get all 14 8000ers in six months. Now they move to Cho Oyu from the Nepal side and hopefully Shishapangma if the Chinese will approve their permit application.
Other summits were reported by Vijay Kumar Appasab Patil (India) with Phurba Dorchi Sherpa, Mingma Thinduk Sherpa, and Chinese climber Hu Tao with Pioneer Treks.
Sanu Sherpa summited the true top after his first two summits were apparently only to the fore summit. He had
The post Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Manaslu Summits! first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The recent heavy snow has stalled summit bids on Manaslu. Around 30 cm, ~1 foot of fresh snow is reported between C3 and C4. Phunuru Sherpa with International Mountain Guides reported that 120 people turned back due to avalanche conditions today, September 21, 2022. They are back in Base Camp now. Also, several cases of COVID are being reported at Manaslu.
The post Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Avalanche Danger Stalls Summit Bids first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Progress continues on Manalsu, with many teams having reached Camp 2 at 21,000 feet and some to Camp 3 around 22,300 feet during their acclimatization rotation. Up to three feet of fresh snow recently fell on the upper mountain. Summit bids are expected to begin on Thursday, September 22.
The Nepal government has issued 404 permits to foreigners. Combining this with a 1:1.2 support ratio, there are around 1,000 people currently attempting Manaslu. One of the reasons Manaslu is so popular these days is that China closed Cho Oyu in the last few years due to COVID. These two 8000ers are considered the best ones for beginner climbers of the highest peaks. Of course, now that Manaslu's true summit has come into focus, those who really value a summit may be disappointed.
There is little doubt that 2022 will be a record summit year on Manaslu, but only if you take the previous summit claims to include the fore summit. In 2019 there were 363 "summits," 2018 had 354, and 2017 saw 329. Before these years, summits rarely reached the 100 level. Of course, if you count only the true summit, these numbers go from a handful to zero. It will be interesting to see how many people claim they reached the true summit in 2022.
The post Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Summit Bids Nearing first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
We sometimes hear about a climber who has to make a tough decision as we follow mountaineering each season. Usually, it involves weather moving in that might jeopardize the team's safety or rescuing a teammate. Well, this spring, my long-time friend, Wilco van Rooijen, 55, faced a difficult decision, but it involved staying true to his style.
The Dutch mountaineer cheated death in 2008 on K2, but we both lost a dear friend, Ger McDonnell, that year. Wilco, who always climbs without supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support, had summited K2, Everest, plus many technical climbs in the Alps. He had a sold attempt in 2018 on Kanchenjunga, the 3rd highest mountain at 8,586 m (28,169 ft), with his best friend and climbing partner, Cas van de Gevel.
This 2022 spring, they returned to Kanch for another try in their style. They had perfect weather day after day and had acclimatized on Meru Peak before arriving at Kanch's base camp. They made one attempt but were going too slow behind a large group, and it was getting late in the day, so they returned to base camp. It was then that their expedition began to experience problems. The operator they had paid to provide base camp logistics told them they only had three days left as they were going. Cas developed health problems. Soon Wilco found himself high on Kanch with a climber he didn't know and a very young and inexperienced Sherpa. Wilco faced a decision that would test his character and test his commitment to the style head sworn to honor.
It's a fascinating interview where we talk about our Broad Peak experience, Wilco and Ger on K2 in 2008, and Wilco and Cas this year on Kanch. I take the opportunity to ask Wiclo his views on the changes we are seeing in the world of mountaineering of excessive use of oxygen, inexperienced clients with unqualified guides, helicopters, and more.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
The post Video Interview Wilco Van Rooijen: No O’s Kanchenjunga 2022 Tough Decisions first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
2022 brought even more stable weather windows than during the great Everest 2018. This May, a stalled high-pressure system made for horrendous temperatures in Northern India while paradoxically creating nearly ideal climbing conditions across much, but not all, of the Himalayas. The net result was nearly 650 people summiting from Everest's Nepal side and another 50 on the Tibet side.
Unlike previous seasons, this spring saw more experienced climbers resulting in fewer deaths, rescues, and an overall low drama environment. Despite this good news, there were periods of brutal weather and climbing conditions, and yes, there were rescues, close-calls, and, sadly, deaths.
This season, we saw the continued trend of a very high member to support ratio. A milestone reached with more Sherpas summiting than foreigners in total since Everest climbing began in the 1920s. We'll dig into this later. All in all, it was a year like we saw a decade ago. But, unfortunately, it was not without deaths, three deaths on Everest and three more on the other 8000ers.
In the good news department, for the first time in many years, the Nepal Ministry of Tourism seemed content to stay out of the way and the headlines. But, this spring, significant changes appeared in the world of mountaineering. These changes will disrupt decades of climbing norms on the 8000-meter peaks.
The post Everest 2022 Season Summary: The Year of the Missing Jetstream first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The big news is not from Everest but on Makalu where Norweigan Kristin Harila along with her Sherpa support got her sixth 8000er in just 29-days, setting a new record. There were 20 summits on Everest, perhaps the last of this season as the Icefall Doctors will begin removing the ladders on Sunday, May 29, 2022. EverestER has already left base camp.
The post Everest 2022: Summit Wave 12 – Recap first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The world's fifth-highest at 27,765 feet (8,463 meters), Makalu saw multiple successes this season. Still, on Monday, May 9, 2022, Adrian Ballinger, co-founder of Alpenglow, texted me, "I summited today with Dorji Sonam and Pasang Sona (Alpenglow Sherpa). We fixed to the summit from where rope fixing ended by French couloir. And….I skied Makalu!!!!!! I just got back to ABC. First on top for the season. Alpenglow pride"
He walks through the climb, discussing how the Sherpas fixed the summit ropes, poor weather at times, or narrow windows of opportunity. I asked him to discuss his "ski technique" for those listeners who are avid skiers. As he was making his way down 8,000 feet of snow and ice, plus a rock gulley or two, he passed climbers going up—what fun.
Finally, we wrap up with a short discussion about how high-altitude mountaineering is changing, especially on those 'other' 8000ers like Kanchnugua, Dhaulagiri, Makalu, and Annapurna.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
The post Video Interview Adrian Ballinger, Alpenglow, on his Makalu Record Ski Descent first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Well, this Nepal season seems to be winding down finally. By my count, there is only one team left, and they are aiming for late in the week just as the weather gets worse. Meanwhile, Makalu still has some record seekers. The season has more records than a 1950's jukebox.
The post Everest 2022: Summit Wave 11 – Recap first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
This Everest season is like a runny nose that won't stop. You blow hard, wipe it clean, and all of a sudden, there it goes again. Just as I thought base camp was empty, as well as the other 8000ers, people keep showing up at the South Col and summiting. I guess with winds so calm (relatively - there are still those moments) that leaders are demonstrating great patience and trust in the weather forecasters to let the route clear out before taking their peeps higher. And that's how it's supposed to be done.
More Summits!
We have a few more summits to report as it seems the wind has picked back up but was still manageable last night. We'll see how the week develops.
Pemba Sherpa of 8K Expeditions texted me that Norweigan Kristin Harila made the fastest link ever for males or females between Everest and Lhotse along with Dawa Ongju Sherpa. They summited Everest on May 22 at 8:45 am and then Lhotse at 5:50 pm - that's 9:05 apart. Now she's on to Makalu base camp by helicopter. She is trying to set a record for summiting all 14 of the 8000-meter peaks in the fastest time. Pemba tells me they will ask for an entry exception to climb Shishapangma in China. And they will climb Cho Oyu from Nepal. Thus far this season, she has summited Kanchenjunga on May 14, Dhaulagiri on May 8, and Annapurna I on April 28.
Another one we have been waiting for is German David Göttler, who summited Everest this morning. He climbed about as clean as possible these days with no O’s and no other human support other than using the fixed lines and ladders installed by the Sherpas. He summited on May 21.
The post Everest 2022: Weekend Update May 22 – The Season That Won’t End first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
This rare month of almost no winds on the summit of Everest has made for one of the calmest, smoothest, quietest seasons in history. Compared to the 2019 mess, this year is how it should be. But of course, the guides and climbers had nothing to do with it; all gratitude goes to Mother Nature. More summits Saturday morning.
But it has come at a cost. Northern India stills suffer from the unbearable heat, all brought on by climate change. We can expect to see this highly variable weather across all the world's mountains, Time to adjust to a new normal.
The post Everest 2022: Summit Wave 10 – Recap first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
OK, it's about time to stick in the fork and see if it's done! We still have climbers on Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Nuptse, but they are pretty lonely as most teams are back in Kathmandu or even sleeping in their own beds tonight. All these folks need to get up and out as I'm getting nervous that this weather window will slam shut.
The post Everest 2022: Summit Wave 9 – Recap first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
OK, it's about time to stick in the fork and see if it's done! We still have climbers on Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Nuptse, but they are pretty lonely as most teams are back in Kathmandu or even sleeping in their own beds tonight. All these folks need to get up and out as I'm getting nervous that this weather window will slam shut.
The post Everest 2022: Summit Wave 9 first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The fourth wave of Everest summiters are beginning to reach the summit, with more female youngest records being set. With the Jet Stream MIA, the weather is unbelievably perfect, thus allowing the 500-600 climbers to spread out and minimize crowds, not that they don't exist.
Everest now has a formula. It's straightforward: a high level of Sherpa support, a high level of oxygen support, and this year, an extremely lucky weather system, absent of the Jet Stream. Thankfully this has allowed day after day of 100 or more summits with minimal (but no) crowds and no reported (but still could have occurred) deaths or rescues. Let's hope the weather continues until the queue is empty.
Another headline from this season thus far is the young female summiters, albeit with massive support, in some cases a 1:7 ratio. Putting style aside, we need the next-gen to make a difference in conservation (LNT), adventure, exploring, and ambition. They will find new routes in the old mountains.
The post Everest 2022: Summit Wave 4 – Update first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The third wave of Everest summiters has come and gone, with around 22 members supported by 37 Sherpas. Thus far, there have been about 202 summits on the Nepal side and 50 on the Tibet side, for 252 total this Spring season. Many more people are climbing now, aiming for Saturday morning, May 14.
There were 316 permits issued on the Nepal side, so estimating that 30% drop out for various reasons and overall for members, the success rate hovers around 80%; we can expect another 175 members supported by a 1:1.5 Sherpa ratio leaving about 250 more people to summit. Thus 240 of the 361 foreigners who received a permit will summit, or 75%, which is about normal for these days.
Thankfully, no deaths or rescues were reported once again, but we may still learn of difficulties. Overall, the weather was ideal, with low winds and temperatures around 0F/-20C. Tonight should be the same.
The post Everest 2022: Summit Wave 3 Recap first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
After a strong first day for multiple commercial summits, we move into what could be the largest this season. I estimate there were well over 100 total summits made up of 40 members supported by 73 Sherpas. There were no deaths or rescues reported, but we may still learn of difficulties. Overall, the weather was ideal, with low winds and temperatures around 0F/-20C. Tonight should be the same.
The post Everest 2022: Summit Wave 3 – Update 1 first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
We have our first Wave 2 summits on Everest 2022! I've received reports directly from Everest that the weather is excellent tonight, making for ideal summit conditions. I estimate between 60 to 90 people (clients and guides) on the Hill this morning. The summit temperatures are hovering around 0F/-17C, which is extremely warm. This is excellent news for those climbing without Os as they will move slower and be colder than those on Os. Look for huge summits crowds leaving the South Col Thursday night, May 12, for a May 13 summit.
The post Everest 2022: Summit Wave 2 Recap – 100+ Summits, 1 Death first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Much to my surprise and probably many others, Portuguese climber Pedro Queirós was the first member of 2022 to summit this spring season. He summited at 9:39 am on Monday, May 9, 2022, with Mingma Sherpa of 14summit and owned by Subin Thakuri.
The post Everest 2022: First Member Summit was Yesterday, May 9! first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Teams are leaving the South Col for the first wave of summit pushes tonight, Tuesday, May 10, 2022. Everest summit record holder Kami Rita Sherpa was evacuated from C2 with snow blindness. The high winds seemed to have calmed allowing these first summit attempts.
The post Everest 2022: Summit Wave 1 Underway first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
This is a special Podcast and YouTube interview with Tim Bogdanov, 37, who was rescued from Annapurna last month. He tells a chilling tale of getting lost and multiple mistakes he made during his no Os climb.
Tim has summits of Manaslu and Annapurna plus over 30 6,000-meters peaks around the world. His style is to climb alone and without supplemental oxygen. He summited Annapurna on April 28 alongside an Indian team that was climbing independently. Also on the summit, that day was Italian Alpinist Giampaolo Corona, who was climbing in a similar independent style.
They both got into serious trouble once descending, albeit separately. The rest of the story is in the video.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
The post Rescue and Frostbite on Annapurna 2022: Tim Bogdanov first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
With a good window before a brief windy period, teams are positioning for Everest summits and reaching the summit of Makalu, Kangchenjunga, and Dhaulagiri. But there was a tragedy on the South Face of Lhotse.
The post Everest 2022: Alpenglow Makalu Success, Avalanche Death on Lhotse first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
It was a busy week in the Himalayas with summits on multiple 8000ers, including Everest. On the Nepal side of the mountain, Kami Rita Sherpa led the rope team to the summit and at the same time extended his summit record to 26. Sadly, there were two more deaths of the season, one on Kangchenchunga and another on Everest. Still, thus far 2022 is a low-drama season. With the good weather emerging, the summit trolls will now allow everyone to make their attempts.
Big Picture
2022 is turning out to be an unusual season but in a good way. On Thursday, I did a podcast with three world-class meteorologists, Michael Fagen of Everest Weather, Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions, and Marc De Keyser of Weather4expeditions , about what we are seeing and can expect these last few weeks of the season. They all agreed that it is warmer than usual, drier than usual, and with less wind than usual. The culprit is the Jet Stream is not sitting on top of Everest like it usually does.
They even suggested that we may see another year like in 2018 when we had 11 consecutive days of low winds that allowed a record year for Everest summits with 802 summits on both sides. The Nepal side saw a total of 562 summits made up of 266 foreigners (aka members) and 296 High Altitude Workers (aka Sherpas). We won't see anything like that number of summits in 2022, perhaps around 400, including support.
A wild card was a potential typhoon brewing in the Bay of Bengal but now it appears that "ASANI" will track away from making landfall. Again, there are currently NO typhoons warnings issued by the Joint Typhoon Warning Center:
The post Everest 2022: Weekend Update May 8 – Ropes to the Summit! first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
A member of the Russian team, Seven Summits Club has died of assumed altitude sickness at Camp 2 on Everest while completing their acclimatization rotations. Pavel Kostrikin,55, according to the Himalayan Database, had attempted Everest in 2013 and 2016 turning back both times citing exhaustion.
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We knew there was a Chinese team on the Tibet side of Everest and that the rope team had made good progress. Now we learn from Mingma G that on April 30, 2022, 11 Chinese with support summited. I have not been able to independently verify the summits, but Mingma is usually in the know.
The Chinese posted this video on YouTube of installing weather stations on Everest, including at the summit, in 2022., but it's unclear if they are actually showing a weather station on the summit in a staging area. On a station, the elevation, 7790m, is written which would be between Camps 2 and 3. The summit is at 8848m.
I'll stay on this, but I won't be surprised if the Chinese summited.
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It's May Day on Everest and some teams are having a party, while others are focused on their acclimatization schedule, and some now eying the summit. But everyone needs to wait for the fixed ropes. The upper mountain may have some moderate winds that may delay the rope team. We saw summits on a few 8000ers but the conditions remain iffy. Still, thus far 2022 is a low-drama season.
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With so many climbers high on Everest, the news is scarce due to a lack of comms. Teams are doing their rotations on Everest to Camp 2 and sometimes a bit higher to Camp 3, few if any thus far are following the traditional model of sleeping at Camp 3, nearly 7,000-meters. Those who won't be using Os will need to go to 8,000-meters before their summit attempt. But for now, several teams declared good enough and are settling in to wait for the summit weather window. It will be at least two weeks or so until the forecast shows a few days with the summit winds under 30mph/50kph. Some teams are now doing the fashionable "touch grass" down valley, ready to return at a moment's notice for the summit push.
The post Everest 2022: Weekend Update May 1 – Summits, Rescues and Cimbing – A ‘Normal’ Season first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
It's mid-season, and there are mixed results on the 'other' 8000ers and a lot of movement on Everest. The ropes are now at the South Col, and the rope team estimates tagging the summit around May 10, depending on the weather. This is slower than previous estimates. Let's take a look at acclimatization and climbing the Lhotse Face.
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As I previously reported, helicopters were used to ferry the gear needed for the summit fixed line to Camp 2, reducing scores of trips through the Icefall for the Sherpas. Good move by Nepal to be mindful of the Sherpa's safety. Also, helicopters were used to remove trash from the 21015 earthquake down from Camp 2. Again, kudos, to all involved.
Teams are now scattered all over the Big Hill, working on their acclimatization, from EBC to Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face.
In what seems like a bit of contrived drama, multiple media outlets pasted headlines about missing Italian climber Giampaolo Corona on Annapurna. He was reported lost but then regained radio contact and said he was fine. Unfortunately, this situation is a fairly common occurrence, but happy Giampalo is fine.
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Big news on the 'other' 8000ers with 15 members with 15 High Altitude Workers summiting on Annapurna. Over on Everest, the hard work of adjusting bodies to the thin air continues.
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With a break in the weather, the summit of Annapurna was visited by 30 people on April 28, 2022. but the other 8000ers are playing coy at the moment. Climbing is strong on Everest with the ropes high on the peak. Sherpas are beginning to stock all the camps to support summit pushes. Remember that the sweet spot is between May 18 to 23, so we have a few weeks to go for the masses. The first summits will be by the rope fixing team, and that could be any day now. See the tracking table for the latest team locations.
The post Everest 2022: 8000er Summits! first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
We'll see multiple summits over the next couple of days on several 8000-meter peaks. The ropes are almost to the South Col on Everest, and the Sherpa rope team is making good progress. There seem's to be a high number of female climbers this year, many wanting to records. As we move towards May, it's time to start asking, "When will they summit?"
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I spoke live with Garrett Madison from Everest Base Camp last night, April 25 in the U.S. They had just returned from their first rotations. Garret reported all was well, and the conditions are pretty good overall. He said he expects the fixed rope to reach the South Col in a day or so and perhaps the summit by May 1. Both Camps 1 & 2 are filled with people on their rotations. The Icefall is pretty busy these days, right on schedule. See the tracking table for the latest team locations.
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As we enter the last week of April, the climbing on Everest is in the full program. Climbers are all over the lower mountain from EBC to Camps 1 and 2. Sherpas are incredibly busy stocking camps. Meanwhile, on the other 8000ers, progress was stalled by weather, but still climbing underway on some others. All in all a low-drama year thus far.
The post Everest 2022: Weekend Update April 24 – First Rotations Begin first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
It's begun. Teams are now at Camps 1 and 2 on their first rotation. There are a very low number of ladders in the Icefall this year, only four. Work continues on Nuptse as an alternative to the Icefall. Everest permits are nearing 300. A deep dive into the Khumbu Icefall.
The post Everest 2022: Climbers Begin Rotations and Into the Icefall first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
There was a bit of buzz today when a Nepali operator made a post saying they were on the Tibet side. As is usual with Everest you can never say never, or can you? I've maintained that China closed all climbing to foreigners for the 2022 Spring season, but as we know they did allow a limited number of pure Chinese teams to climb in the previous three Spring seasons.
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Heavy weather is stalling summit attempts across the Himalayas. On Everest, it's time to test the Icefall, with the first climbers entering the Icefall for rotations to Camps 1 and 2. The Sherpas have said the Icefall is "easy" this year. Let's look at why it takes two months to climb Everest or does it?
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Lots of activities on Everest. Sherpas are ferrying loads to stock Camp 1 and 2 in the Western Cwm. Other Sherpas are fixing the ropes from Camp 2 to Camp 3 and beyond. They hope to reach the summit by Mayday. Members are reviewing basic skills and adjusting to Base Camp life. Several teams have completed their acclimation on Lobuche. Furtenbach Adventures reports in with, "News from our current Everest Expedition In the best weather our whole Classic Team with guide @luckydavewatson climbed Lobuche East. They arrive at Everest BC today."
IMG notes progress at the High Camps: "Our Sherpa Team is continuing to work on Camp 2 and progress is being made with setting up the main kitchen and dining tents. This is a big job at Camp 2, and we use plenty of rope to anchor the tents in the likely event wind kicks up."
Brit, Tim Mosedale is heading into the Cwm: "We’re going up on the hill for a few days so will be out of touch. We’ll have 2 nights at C1 (around 6,000m) and then 4 or 5 nights at C2 (around 6,400m) before coming back to EBC for a well deserved rest."
Heavy snow stalled the summit attempts on Kangchunga and Annpurna where an avalanche was reported on the route, not uncommon. On the other 8000ers, teams have just arrived at their base camps, with a few climbers already climbing.
Thus far, the season is progressing as expected. No drama, thankfully.
The post Everest 2022: How Fast Can You Climb Everest? first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Many teams will not climb today, April 18, 2022, as eight years ago to the day, at 6:35 am, a small section of an ice serac released onto the Khumbu Icefall. 16 Sherpas were killed in a moment as tons of ice fell, leaving the mountain workers with few options and nowhere to hide. Today is a day to remember. Om mani Padme hung
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A few more permits were issued over the weekend, bringing the total for all 22 peaks to 740. On Everest, they remained steady at 262 with 94 on Lhotse. Sherpas will return to stocking high camps tomorrow, but on the other 8000ers, we may see summits tomorrow or the next day. One I'm keeping a close eye on is Dhaulagiri with Carlos Sori, 83, Sito Carcavilla, and the six Sherpas are at Camp 3 of Dhaulagiri with a solid weather forecast. Thye could summit tomorrow marking Carols' 13th summit an 8000er, leaving on Shispanagma. There is still a lot of climbing on the 'other' 8000ers, with Makalu, Lhotse and Lhotse South Face, and Kangchenjunga, but heavy snowfall delays progress on Annapurna. Look for summits on most of these over the next few weeks and the serious acclimatization rotations to begin on Everest around April 19-20. #everest2022
The post Everest 2022: A Solemn Day of Remembrance on Everest first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Activity is strong at Everest Base Camp, with more still on the trek. The permits increased as expected this past week and will top out fairly soon. They still lag behind last year by over 100 for Everest. The fixed lines are now to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm, ready for more teams to arrive at EBC this week. We saw the first 8000er deaths of the 2022 Spring season this past week. #everest2022
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As of April 15, 2022, the Ministry of Tourism has issued 738 total climbing permits thus far, with 262 for Everest, with 56 female climbers. The United States represents the largest country on Everest this year with 58 climbers, a spot recently ceded to India and China, with only 21 and 9 climbers, respectively. The UK comes in at 33, with Canada at 14 and Australia at ten thus far. Russia has 16 climbers on Everest this season.
Everest Base Camp is rapidly filling up with most teams reviewing basic skills and preparing for their first walk into the Icefall, a big day ahead. See the tracking table for the latest team locations.
Climbers on Dhaulagiri and Annapurna are climbing with summit pushes expected soon. Also, climbing will soon begin on Kachchenunga and Makalu.
The post Everest 2022: Weekend Update April 17 – First Deaths, Carlos on his Way! first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
A Sherpa has died in the IceFall near the Football Field. He apparently just collapsed as there was no fall, illness, or avalanche. Teams are starting to stock the higher camps with tents, food, and fuel getting ready for the first rotations. A narrative on arriving at EBC.
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Teams on Everest have already begun the acclimatization process. It usually begins with a short trip halfway up the Khumbu Icefall to an area called, the 'Football field.' This is a relatively flat section, somewhat safe from avalanches from Everest's West Shoulder. Climbers will be very slow on this first climb as they are not fully acclimatized. They will be hurting puppies! #everest2022
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Right on schedule, several teams have arrived at Everest Base Camp. It will be their home until late May, for most, or a few days after they reach the summit. The majority of Everest summits occur between May 18th and 23rd. There is a lot of climbing left on the 'other' 8000ers.
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The permits issuance continue to pick up. As of April 13, 2022, Nepal had issued 250 permits for 31 teams on Everest. I'm still expecting the final number to be under 300. As for countries on Everest, The US continues to have the most climbers with 58, followed by the UK at 33, India-21, Russia-16, Canada-14, Nepal (non-Sherpas) with 14, and Australia at 10. For all of Nepal mountains requiring permits, 689 foreigners have received one. See the table at the end of this post for details.
There is still a lot of climbing on the 'other' 800ers, with Annapurna, Makalu, Lhotse and Lhotse South Face, and Kangchenjunga. Look for summits on most of these over the next few weeks and the serious acclimatization rotations to begin on Everest around April 17. #everest2022
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Tragic death after summiting occurred on the 8000er, Dhaulagiri. Highly experienced Greek climber Antonis Sykaris is reported to have died after summiting around 7,400m on the 8,167 meters (26,795 ft) peak. Sykaris was 59-years-old. He was climbing with Dawa Sherpa using the logistics of Seven Summits Treks and summited at 12:40 pm local time. Just this past weekend 22 people summited as I previously reported. Sykaris was on a mission to submit all 14 of the 8000ers.
The post Everest 2022: First Death on an 8000er this season – Update first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Activity is picking up with climbers getting closer to Everest Base Camp plus many more have arrived in Kathmandu. The permits have increased as expected this past week but still lag behind last year. The fixed lines are now to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm. Teams will arrive at EBC this week. We saw the first 8000er summits of the 2022 Spring season this past week.
The post Everest 2022: Weekend Update April 10 – First 8000er Summits first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Jenn Drummond doesn't let much stop her from achieving her goals. Having all of her climbing gear not show up for a climb was a mere inconvenience for this 41-year-old mother of seven children. Jenn is on a mission to be the first female climber to summit the so-called Second Seven Summits. We are all familiar with the first seven, and around 500 people have accomplished that goal. Still, only a handful have completed the 2nd, and no females.
I met Jenn via my Summit Coach consulting business almost two years ago. She called me to discuss climbing Ama Dablam, which she did a few months later. Jenn is unique. An accomplished businesswoman, now retired, mother of seven, ranging in age from nine to 15, including twin daughters. She is an avid skier, triathlete, and played college soccer.
We had a wide-ranging conversation about how the idea was born, her children, and how she manages the complexities of being away so often, and of course, some of the climbs got started.
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Each year on Everest, a few climbers try to stand out from the crowd. Their motivations range from deeply personal to seeking fame and fortune. Regardless, they offer something different for followers than the usual climb, which is sad on some level.
I've always felt that if you are qualified and have earned the right to be on Everest, you should be applauded, regardless of your result. No matter what you read, Everest is not a walk-up; it hard, and people die. With that, let's look at a few climbers with unique stories. #everest2022
The post Everest 2022: Climbers to Watch first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Many long-time Everest climbers and fans know twin brothers Damian and Willie Benegas, 54, founders of the renowned Benegas Brothers guide company. On March 12, around 12:30 p.m., Willie became seriously injured in a large avalanche. In my interview with Willie, he says, "As I was trapped, I thought, so this is how I will die."
The post Willie Benegas Injured in Avalanche first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The Everest 2022 season is about to get started in earnest. Climber after climber and team after team are leaving home. In many cases, scores of Sherpas are on their way to Everest Base Camp to begin the arduous process of establishing a home for over 500 people this spring season. The Icefall Doctors are already at work. #everest2022
The post Everest 2022: Weekend Update March 27 – And We’re Off! first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Leaving home to climb Mt. Everest is no simple task. It's not a business trip; it's not a vacation; it's something entirely different. While it may be your dream, it can be something altogether different for those left behind. As we approach the end of March, scores of climbers are going through this process for Everest 2022.
It's time for Everest climbers to get focused and serious about the last-minute preparations. Since their dream began, they wondered how this period would feel. They saved money, bought the gear, and trained their bodies for months or even years, but a few crucial steps remain before boarding that plane for Kathmandu.
A longtime reader and climber preparing for Everest sent me this question last week: "How do you keep sleeping and maintain mental focus 20 days before leaving for Everest without stressing yourself out?' My answer was:
Focus on "leaving nothing unsaid" with those who matter most in your life. Visualize being on the mountain with a positive outcome, review your gear using a mental walk-thru of the climb to ensure you have everything you need and want. Finally, surround yourself with positive people who have fun, laugh, and support you.
For this last step of prep, let's take a closer look at three areas: Physical, Mental, and Emotional. #everest2022
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While Everest gets a lot of attention each spring season, Nepal has seven other 8000-meter peaks that deserve coverage. In some cases, they are more interesting from a pure climbing perspective than the Big E, Makalu, for example.
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Climbers are streaming into Kathmandu's Tribhuvan International Airport from all over the world. Many are trekking, not climbing, but most climbers will attempt Everest.
Of the fourteen peaks higher than 26,000-feet or 8,000-meters, seven are entirely in Nepal or straddle the border with either India or Tibet: Cho Oyu, Annapurna, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Makalu, Lhotse, and Kanchenjunga. Of the remaining giants, five are in Pakistan: K2, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum, and Gasherbrum II, while Shishapangma stands alone with the Tibetan borders.
China has closed Tibet to foreigners for the third straight year due to COVID, and the climbing season in Pakistan usually, but not always, starts in June; thus, Nepal has the focus for now.
everest2022
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The #Everest2022 season is starting to take shape with guides establishing their base camp, the Icefall Doctors are on their way to EBC, but the war in Ukraine is beginning to take a toll on some.
The post Everest 2022: Icefall Doctors leave for EBC and Ukraine Guide Bans Russians first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
As we say hello to mid-March, climbers worldwide are making their last-minute preparations to travel to Nepal following their dream to summit Everest. However, similar to the past few years, they will be in an uncertain environment once again.
In 2020 Nepal and China closed Everest due to COVID. And China kept it closed to foreigners again in 2021 and this year, 2022. While Nepal opened Everest last year, 2021, it was a debacle with COVID infections running rampant in many teams, causing over 150 clients to leave early and probably that many Sherpas who got COVID then or later.
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Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2022 coverage! I have already posted a few articles on Everest 2022 so let me officially welcome you. This season will be my 22nd season of all-things Everest: 16 times providing coverage, another four seasons of climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse.
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Welcome to the 2022 edition of Alan Arnette's annual coverage of the Everest climbing season. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge and reward of climbing Everest. It's based on my three Everest attempts and my 2011 summit plus my climbing experiences of a K2 summit in 2014, Manaslu in 2013, and 30+ more peaks around the world. My reporting uses my own research, sources, and public information.
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High winds and heavy snow thwarted all of the ambitious plans for the 2021/22 winter Himalayan season. Using the end of February as the end of winter, it's over. It's time to turn to Spring climbing. There were attempts but no summits on five of the fourteen 8000ers: Everest, K2, Nanga Parbat, Manaslu, and Cho Oyu.
The post Winter Himalayan Climbs Over first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Every person who climbs Everest is unique. So, of course, that person feels special, but some stand out. Take Kuntal Joisher, for example. He has summited Everest from the Tibet and Nepal sides, plus Lhotse, and completed many other amazing adventures like the Northern Icecap in Chile. But what makes Kuntal stand out is his dedication to a vegan lifestyle that goes all the way to shunning any item that uses animal products - including using a full synthetic climbing suit. We discuss how he got to this point, his outstanding photography skills, and what it's like being an ambassador for "Save the Ducks." We also discuss his next climbing project his passion for bodybuilding and photography. Finally, we share a common family situation with my mom, Ida, and his father, both dying from forms of Dementia, Lewy Body syndrome, and Alzheimer's.
The post Video Interview with Kuntal Joisher – 100% Vegan Mountain Climber first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Mother nature will not let up for the remaining efforts on Cho Oyu and K2. Attempts have been stopped by high winds and snow conditions. The end of winter is quickly approaching for the teams.
The post Bad Weather Continues to Thwart Winter Himalayan Summits, Vision Study first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
The efforts on Manaslu and Nanga Parbat ended without summits leaving one solo climber on Everest, a team of Sherpas with one client on K2, and two Nepali teams racing for the summit on Cho Oyu. Depending on which definition of the end of winter you use, the Meteorological definition at the end of February, or March 20, 2022, the Astronomical definition, teams are now focused on making their summit bids.
The post Everest, Cho Oyu and K2 left for Winter Himalayan Climbs first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
With the heavy snowfall, and unrelenting winds, one by one, the ambitious winter plans are falling. There is a reason so few people attempt any of the world's highest peaks in the winter, and this season is a case study. It appears unlikely anyone will summit this winter ... but I could be wrong!
The post One by One, Winter Himalayan Climbs End first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
With the Everest 2022 season just around the corner, it appears the Tibet side will be closed and continued uncertainty about the wisdom of climbing on the Nepal side. There are questions as to whether operators should run their programs at all. Many are moving forward but a few are not. I discuss the situation with Adrian Ballinger, founder of Alpenglow Expeditions who has canceled his expedition from the Tibet side this spring. We also talk about his plans for a no O's, ski descent on Makalu.
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This is the Podcast version of my annual post of "How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest?" Prices have risen on both sides, and there is price parity on the Tibet and Nepal sides. Also, I look at some of the most expensive options - it's shocking!
The post Podcast: How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? – 2022 Edition first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Poor weather across the Himalayas continues to stall significant progress on Evererst and Manaslu. Another team joins the race to create a commercial route on Cho Oyu and tragedy in Patagonia.
The post Winter Himalayan Climbs Fight the Weather first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Winter climbs of the world's highest peaks have a poor summit rate primarily due to harsh weather. Well, history repeats itself this winter of 2021/2022. Teams are calling it quits or returning to large cities to wait out the weather.
The post Winter Himalayan Climbs Go/ No Go first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
Well, it's winter in the northern hemisphere, so poor weather is the norm. Teams across Nepal and Pakistan are feeling it. And in Antarctica, they are suffering as well. Welcome to 2022.
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Heavy snow has stalled most progress across the Himalayas. Meanwhile, good conditions in Antarctica are allowing multiple Vinson summits. Teams start out on Aconcagua.
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As we enter 2022, climbing activity around the world hits its stride. However, poor weather has delayed several expeditions so patience is a virtue. Looking forward a few months to Spring Everest 2002, uncertainty is growing as more companies cancel their plans. Also, can you sue your guide if you don't summit?
The post Climbing Updates Early 2022 first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
As we enter 2022, I believe most of us have great hopes for a better year, a safer one. Perhaps one with less divisiveness across tightly entrenched groups. But, to accomplish a safe and more inclusive environment, it will take all of us to do hard things, large and small.
The post Doing Hard Things first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
With winter now officially here, we are seeing some ambitious climbs begin on Everest, Manalsu, and even Nanga Parbat. So here's a quick round-up of some of the more interesting activities.
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For 98% of all Everest climbers, the choice of routes comes down between the Northeast (Tibet) and Southeast (Nepal) Ridges. For most everyone, all other routes are too dangerous, too difficult and not commercially guided. This post will take a look at the various routes and go deep into the most popular commercial ones through 2021.
The post Comparing the Routes of Everest – 2022 edition first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.
As we get closer to Everest 2022, I've updated my annual post of "How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest?" Prices have risen on both sides, and there is price parity on the Tibet and Nepal sides. Also, I look at some of the most expensive options - it's shocking!
The post How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? – 2022 Edition first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.