The Climbing Advocate: Recent Episodes
The Climbing Advocate
Learn more about the work that is happening beyond the crag to keep climbing areas around the United States open and cared for.
Check out more on Access Fund's mission at accessfund.org.
Today’s episode is a tribute to one of the most influential characters in the climbing community and the original climbing advocate: Armando Menocal. Armando was a civil rights lawyer turned climber and is known by many as the dedicated founder of Access Fund. He passed away in October 2024 at the age of 83 after a battle with cancer. This episode is a short collection of words from some of his closest friends and colleagues honoring his memory.Armando’s experience and leadership as a civil rights lawyer representing underserved communities translated well to advocating for climbing access on public lands amid fierce controversy during the rise of sport climbing in the ‘80s and ‘90s. His vision for an inclusive climbing community—embracing all styles, including sport climbing and fixed hardware—helped shape the landscape we enjoy today and contributed to the recent passage of the Protecting America’s Rock Climbing (PARC) Act.Enjoy this heart-warming episode celebrating Armando’s kindness and his vision for the future of climbing. Thank you to Brady Robinson, Rick Accomazzo, Allen Sanderson, David Rosenstein, Kika Bradford, and Rick Thompson for contributing to this episode.Brady Robinson- 3:20Rick Accomazzo- 27:54David Rosenstein- 31:40Allen Sanderson- 34:41Kika Bradford- 38:57Rick Thompson- 44:43
Today’s episode features multiple guests who all bring a unique perspective and area of expertise to the topic of climbing and climate resiliency. The first half of the episode features Brian Tickle, Access Fund’s National Acquisitions & Texas Regional Director and Joel Houser, Director of Capital Grants with the Open Space Institute. Together, Brian and Joel break down some of the basics of what climate resiliency is and how it influences the climbing landscape and beyond. In our second conversation, Daniel Dunn, Access Fund’s Eastern Regional Access Director & Policy Analyst and Charlie Mix, GIS Director at the University of Tennessee - Chattanooga, take a deeper dive into how future climbing conservation opportunities are being identified around Tennessee through a lens of climate resiliency. Through comprehensive mapping and analysis looking at a variety of different environmental, social and economic factors, Access Fund has a guide to accelerate climbing access in Tennessee. 4:10- Brian’s intro5:04- Joel’s intro5:58- What is the Open Space Institute?8:57- Defining “climate resiliency”11:43- Open Space Institute & Access Fund working together16:10- Joel's experience visiting North Carolina post-hurricanes21:37- Adaptation vs. Mitigation23:34- Does climbing matter?25:22- When Access Fund started looking at climate resiliency28:56- Acquisitions that rank high in climate resiliency30:26- Does climbing matter from Brian's perspective33:15- Why should climbers care about climate resiliency?38:27- Daniel's intro39:11- Charlie's intro42:09- Recap of the Tennessee Accelerator Report43:54- Charlie's involvement with the Accelerator Report48:43- Describing The Nature Conservancy's Resilient Landscape Mapping Tool58:26- Areas that don't score high in climate resiliency1:00:55- Denny Cove: the poster child for climate resiliency1:10:25- Results of the analysis: the 3 primary priority areas1:17:25- Where to find the Tennessee Accelerator ReportTennessee Accelerator Report: https://www.accessfund.org/tennessee-access-acceleratorDoes Climbing Matter?: https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/does-climbing-matterGIS Program at UT-Chattanooga: https://www.utc.edu/research/interdisciplinary-geospatial-technology-lab/igtlab-faculty-and-staffOpen Space Institute: https://www.openspaceinstitute.org/
Today’s episode features Access Fund’s new executive director, Heather Thorne. Heather joins Access Fund with nearly 30 years of climbing experience and nearly 15 years after she began climbing, advocacy helped save one of her favorite crags. Coming from a long background working in the tech industry, she aspires to apply a scientific approach and use a high level of creativity for how the organization approaches opportunities and challenges. Heather hit the ground running in her new role. Whether it’s traveling to meet with other advocates or local organizations in Access Fund’s orbit, or getting up to speed with fixed anchors in Wilderness areas, or other aspects of Access Fund’s core programming, she is applying that scientific method to lead the organization forward.6:09- Heather’s intro10:20- Athlete to advocate14:30- Parallels between the tech industry and outdoor advocacy19:29- Heather's work travels25:04- Updates on fixed anchors in Wilderness areas25:25- Minimum Requirements Analysis (MRA) process35:14- The Mentorship Campaign44:31- Climber stewards + general outreach and education50:55- Reflections on the Outdoor Alliance board retreat54:34- What's next for Access Fund & Heather's visionHeather’s intro: https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/access-fund-announces-heather-thorne-as-new-executive-directorClimber Survey (closes on September 10th, 2024): https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/take-our-2024-climber-surveyFixed anchors: https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/whats-next-for-wilderness-climbingMentorship campaign: https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/join-us-in-mentoring-responsible-climbersImpact Map: https://www.accessfund.org/impact-mapOutdoor Alliance: https://www.outdooralliance.org/
This month’s episode features Loryn Posladek and Kyle Leihsing who are leading the charge on national stewardship efforts representing Access Fund’s Conservation Team. For the last five years, Loryn and Kyle have traversed the country dedicating themselves to assisting LCOs and other conservation partners on building sustainable trails and other critical infrastructure at our beloved climbing areas.Loryn and Kyle highlight trends they have noticed over the years regarding stewardship participation, what can be done to continue to improve the experience for the participants, and how to get more climbers engaged in stewardship activities. There appears to be a large gap in the number of recreationists that consistently access public land for recreation purposes but don’t necessarily participate in the activities that are aimed at stewarding these resources.We round out the conversation getting into the multi-year process they have been a part of creating adaptive access at the Thumb and Needle in Estes Park, Colorado. 6:31 - Loryn and Kyle’s intros7:58 - Changes in the Conservation Team program10:48 - What keeps them coming back year after year14:28 - Current project in Rumney18:21 - What areas are still left on the list to visit?21:35 - Going from athlete to advocate27:59 - onX Backcountry's Breaking Trails Report & the "stewardship gap"42:58 - "Trail dogs" and the new archetype of climber45:30 - Bridging the stewardship gap through mentorship51:11 - Creating adaptive trails in Estes Park, CO1:02:38 - 2024 plans for the Thumb and NeedleAccess Fund’s Conservation Teams: https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/meet-your-2024-climbing-conservation-teamsonX Backcountry’s Breaking Trails Report: https://www.onxmaps.com/onx-access-initiatives/breaking-trailsProspect Mountain (Thumb and Needle) on Mountain Project: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105860404/prospect-mountain
This month’s episode features two rockstars out of the Southeast. Meagan Evans, Executive Director of the Southeast Climbers Coalition (SCC) and Daniel Dunn, Access Fund’s Southeast Regional Manager. Together they have worked to steward and conserve some of the region’s most cherished climbing landscapes. Most recently, the SCC protected a 58-acre boulderfield in northern Alabama known as The Citadel Boulders—an area that the SCC has been working to protect for nearly 20 years. Now the SCC, along with other major partners, are focusing their efforts on how climbing can contribute to broader conservation efforts in the Southeast.From Tennessee to Georgia and Alabama, the Southeastern U.S. is home to some of the most impressive and expansive climbing resources in the country. Within that area, the SCC sees thousands of annual climber visits resulting in a remarkable economic impact for the region. Climbers bring in millions of dollars in spending, supporting thousands of jobs. We wrap up the episode exploring some of these economic contributions and how climbing will play a big role in future conservation efforts.4:46- Meg’s intro9:26- Daniel’s intro13:18- The Citadel acquisition20:46- The early days of the Citadel boulders24:08- Using strategic messaging to communicate about threatened areas33:13- Citadel size and characteristics36:36- Stewardship and infrastructure at the Citadel39:49 Alabama’s Recreational Use Statute47:16- Categories of land protection55:15- Climbing economics and the future of conservation in the southeast1:03:20- Accelerating climbing access in TennesseeSoutheastern Climbers Coalition - https://www.seclimbers.orgSCC’s Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/seclimbers/Citadel Secured! - https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/victory-iconic-southeast-bouldering-area-securedCitadel Boulders - https://www.seclimbers.org/project/the_citadel_boulders/Tennessee Economic Impact Study - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RJKqRlzX29oYP1aPusRjP5BGdwcd7MWT/view?usp=sharingTennessee Access Accelerator Report - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dfuvshG9GZrVliDEdRNkKUB8Pgd1L6UY/view?usp=sharingAccess Fund's Acquisition History - https://www.accessfund.org/capabilities/acquisition-historyAccess Fund's Land Holdings & Conservation Easements - https://www.accessfund.org/capabilities/land-holdings
On today’s episode, we host two conversations to recap Access Fund’s 2023 Annual Climbing Advocacy Conference in Bentonville, Arkansas. First with Dave Thompson, president of the Arkansas Climbers Coalition, and then with Crystal Hudelson and Keith Murakata with Climbers of Color. Dave shares insight into how the explosion of tourism in Arkansas has garnered support for climbing among land managers at the state and federal level and for future conservation opportunities. Dave says that Arkansas is a great stop along the way while traveling through the southeast, but it may not be long before Arkansas is seen as a major hub for climbing and recreation across the U.S. Crystal and Keith attended the conference to receive their 2022 Climbing Advocate Award for their exemplary work in lifting up leaders of color in the outdoor industry with Climbers of Color (CoC). The CoC is a Washington-based nonprofit that provides mentorship and technical training in climbing, mountaineering, and backcountry skiing. Additionally, the CoC is deeply invested in conservation and stewardship work at their local climbing areas, working on crag development, rebolting, and trail building. Tune in to hear more about climbing in Arkansas and how climbers continue to demonstrate leadership in training folks to not only be better climbers, but better people. Dave Thompson4:15 - Dave Thompson’s intro5:43- Dave’s experience at the 2023 Annual Conference9:09- The Arkansas Climbers Coalition18:28- Models for conservation20:27- Explosion of tourism in Arkansas30:45- Economic impact study37:27- Future of the ARCC- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Crystal Hudelson and Keith Murakata41:30- Crystal’s intro42:51- Keith’s intro44:59- Experience at the 2023 Annual Conference50:18- Land acknowledgement vs. land introduction52:57- Climbers of Color59:10- Gritscone Crag maintenance1:08:17- Future Gritscone stewardship opportunitiesArkansas Climber Coalition website: https://www.arkansasclimbers.org/ARCC’s Instagram: @arkansasclimberscoalitionBecome a member of the ARCC: https://www.arkansasclimbers.org/join-nowClimbers of Color website: https://www.climbersofcolor.org/CoC’s Instagram: @climbersofcolorCrystal’s Instagram: @aroseontherockCoC Events: https://www.climbersofcolor.org/events
On today’s episode, Erik Murdock returns to take a deep dive into an issue that Access Fund and the climbing community have worked on for decades: how fixed anchors are managed in Wilderness areas. It’s an issue that requires context, history, and nuance, which is what this episode delivers.Erik begins with a thorough history of climbing in America’s Wilderness areas, then we get into the finer details of why managing fixed anchors in these places is a big deal right now. As Erik explains, recently released guidance from the National Park Service and US Forest Service will have serious implications if implemented. Join us for a deep dive into this issue, and submit your comment to the NPS and USFS on their management guidance before January 30th here.5:12- The early conversations around wilderness - are fixed anchors allowable or prohibited?8:28- Erik's opening on fixed anchors and wilderness27:04- Why are fixed anchors being managed now?30:42- Managing fixed anchors outside of wilderness41:13- Climbers supporting past wilderness designations51:23- Protect America's Rock Climbing (PARC) Act59:26- Minimum Requirements Analysis (MRA) in more depth1:04:35- Will fixed hardware be removed from existing routes?1:09:27- Where do we go from here?Wilderness Climbing FAQ: https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/wilderness-climbing-faqBolt Prohibition Action Alert: https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/action-alert-stop-the-bolt-prohibitionNational Park Service Comment Submission Form (due by Jan 30th, 2024): https://parkplanning.nps.gov/commentForm.cfm?documentID=132387US Forest Service Comment Submission Form (due by Jan 30th, 2024): https://cara.fs2c.usda.gov/Public/CommentInput?project=ORMS-3524
On this month’s episode, we chat with Andrew Staff, president of the Illinois Climbers Association (ICA). Andrew’s experience climbing in southern Illinois spans over two decades, so it’s safe to say that he has intimate knowledge of the local climbing and a strong connection with the local community. What the ICA has been able to accomplish over the past 20+ years is exemplary. Whether it’s stewarding or purchasing climbing areas or establishing trustworthy relationships with state and federal land managers, we should be proud to have the ICA as a part of our community. Illinois may not be the first place that comes to mind when thinking of climbing in the U.S., but Andrew convinces us otherwise. Tune in to hear more from Andrew and discover a place that still sits under the radar.6:14- Andrew’s intro10:26- Andrew’s favorite places to climb12:42- History of the ICA28:21- Statewide representation35:21- Approaching a federal agency vs. a state agency46:04- “Cooperation” as an organizational value51:58- The opening of Ferne Clyff1:03:13- Best ways to support the ICA1:10:28- Parting wordsIllinois Climbers Association website: https://www.ilclimbers.org/Illinois Climbers Association Instagram: @illinoisclimbersassociationSupport the ICA: https://www.ilclimbers.org/giveback
Today we are joined by zoologist and founder of Climbers for Bat Conservation, Rob Schorr. Rob has a particular passion for bats, which can be somewhat elusive and challenging to study given where they often roost. That’s where climbers come in. Around 10 years ago, Rob recognized an opportunity to partner with climbers to expand research on bat ecology. Since climbers and bats share the same vertical landscape, climbers are able to provide Rob and other scientists with information that they could not gather from capturing bats on the ground. Bats are largely misunderstood by the public. Rob’s work demystifies these unique animals while also gaining a better understanding of bat ecology and conservation. Working with climbers has provided Rob with invaluable information, and he is incredibly psyched to continue working with the community as conservation partners. 3:45- Rob’s intro5:54- Work outside of bats11:50- Rob’s initial interest in bats12:53- Misconceptions about bats19:22- Climbers coming to the picture23:19- Approaching bat research using climbers27:50- Trends seen over the last ten years32:23- Identifying guano37:09- Primary concerns from human disturbance 44:07- Climbers for Bat Conservation45:07- CBC projects and public engagements49:18- Where to submit data and observations51:01- Will there ever be bat closures?54:36- Educational resources on batsClimbers for Bat Conservation’s website: https://climbersforbats.colostate.edu/Climbers for Bat Conservation’s Instagram: @climbers_for_bat_conservationGlobal Climbing Initiative’s Best Practices Chapter on Bat Conservation: https://globalclimbing.org/best-practices/climbers-and-bat-conservationBat Conservation International: https://www.batcon.org/
Our guest for this episode is Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition (WMCC) operating director, Stephanie Giguere. Stephanie recently took on this leadership role after spending multiple years as a volunteer with the organization.
In the past few years, WMCC has worked through a couple of major projects, securing access to important regional crags like Farley Ledges and Hanging Mountain. Stephanie walks us through some of the finer details of these two projects, which required coordination with private landowners, funding sources, and community support to ensure they succeed.
WMCC is a great example of an LCO that’s making an incredible contribution to the larger network of nearly 150 local climbing organizations across the country. The knowledge and expertise of local climbers is imperative to the success of sustaining climbing access for the future.
3:10- Stephanie’s intro and climbing in Massachusetts 7:30- Stephanie's climbing story 9:30- Climbing history in Western Mass 15:57- Stephanie's role with the WMCC 22:23- Funding an executive director-type position 24:52- WMCC's jurisdiction in MA 27:36- Land management and ownership of climbing areas in the East 30:02- The Farley Ledges project 39:44- Lessons from the Farley Ledges project 44:14- The Hanging Mountain Project 48:23- Funding resources for Hanging Mountain 54:26- Final thoughts
WMCC’s Instagram: @wmcc_climb_gneiss WMCC’s website: https://climbgneiss.org/ Access Color Codes: https://climbgneiss.org/about-color-codes/
On this month’s episode, we are joined by Quinn Brett and Sam Sala. Quinn is an adaptive athlete and prominent voice in the adaptive space. As an avid recreationist, she provides her view on how outdoor accessibility can be improved in our national parks and other outdoor spaces. Sam is an instructor at Paradox Sports where he works with Quinn and other adaptive climbers. Across his tenure, he has gained a first-hand appreciation for how improved accessibility enriches the outdoor experiences for adaptive athletes. The pair discuss some of the barriers, challenges, and successes that they have seen in the adaptive world and what they hope to see in the future. We hope this brings you a better perspective on accessibility in the outdoors, adaptive climbing, and inclusivity for adaptive athletes. 5:48- Quinn and Sam’s climbing histories10:12- Accessible terminology 10113:47- What Quinn noticed was missing in accessibility in the outdoors20:38- Sam’s beginnings with adaptive athletes26:12- Successes/progress they have seen over the years33:26- A universal trail in national parks & meshing with Wilderness areas38:27- Great American Outdoors Act & funding accessible infrastructure41:26- Quinn is still doing cool sh*t46:14- How to support adaptive athletes52:42- Trail etiquette54:12- Adaptive climbing technologyQuinn’s Instagram: @quinndolinaSam's Instagram: @fearthenbeerParadox Sports: https://www.paradoxsports.org/A Climb for Greater Accessibility: https://www.rei.com/blog/climb/a-climb-for-greater-accessibility
Our guest for April’s episode is alpinist and climate activist Molly Kawahata. You may recognize her name from The Scale of Hope, a Patagonia-sponsored film that came out last November. Leading up to the release of that film, Molly was becoming a household name in the climate movement. Pulling on human psychology and neuroscience, her approach to communicating climate action is arguably unprecedented, as she moves to make it more relatable to the everyday person.Molly’s experience as a climate advisor at the White House during the Obama administration spring boarded her into the path that she is currently on, and she hasn’t slowed down. A combination of working tirelessly as a climate advocate, Alaskan alpine climbing, and a long bout with a mental health disorder has brought her to where she is now. Tune in to hear more from Molly about how these experiences made her a fixture in the climate movement. 12:05- Patagonia's Film, The Scale of Hope24:29- Molly's openness about her Bipolar 2 Disorder37:50- Working at the White House47:09- Reframing climate change communication51:53- The science of hope55:24- Changing the narrative towards public health1:03:16- The Inflation Reduction Act & systemic change1:07:02- Climate mitigation vs. adaptation1:16:10- Molly's career & closing remarksMolly’s Instagram: @mollykawahataScale of Hope film: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrmKoU2Oe5IEnvironmental Voter Project: https://www.environmentalvoter.org/
This month marks the 50th episode of the Climbing Advocate podcast! Chris Sharma, our guest for this special episode, needs little introduction as one of the most prolific and influential climbers of our time. His contribution to the climbing community extends from the crag to the boulder field to the gym with his new indoor climbing ventures. After nearly 30 years of climbing, Chris’s psych is as high as it’s ever been and his continued commitment to the climbing community is truly special.Sharma has lived and climbed in Spain for 15 years and had a great perspective to share on the differences between Spain and the US in terms of land management, climber presence, and overall advocacy. Sharma is particularly passionate about fixed anchor replacement—as a route developer himself, he’s dedicated to making sure no one gets hurt on one of his routes and to educating other climbers on best practices for developing new routes and updated fixed hardware on existing routes. Tune in to hear more from Chris as him and Peter celebrate 50 episodes of the Climbing Advocate Podcast!5:10- Chris’ time in Boulder12:07- Leaving a legacy15:21- Influence of The Climb20:05- Chris’ early days of climbing26:23- Climbing ambassadorship29:34- Noteables between the U.S. and Spain41:08- Land management in Spain51:22- Stewardship and access in Spain55:20- What Chris is most passionate about59:17- Other athletes in the advocacy realm1:01:29- “...For the next generation”
On today’s episode we head south with Elaine Elliott. Elaine is one of the founders and writers of Steep South, a climbing media company. Elaine aspired to find a way to share the rock climbing treasures of the Southeast while also blending in themes of conservation and advocacy. With her history in writing, she found a sweet spot, linking up with local filmmakers in Chattanooga to produce two beautiful climbing films that share conservation success stories from Tennessee and North Carolina.These films bring conservation to life and paint a picture on how much work goes into the success of these kinds of projects. Conservation is a delicate balancing act, and climbers prove time and time again that they have the skills and know how to complete these projects.Elaine and her team at Steep South provide an amazing and unique resource to learn more about climbing conservation, so tune in to learn more and be sure to check out the Filling the Void series on YouTube.3:38- Elaine’s intro10:59- The origins of Steep South20:49- What’s required to make a film27:55- Where the “Filling the Void” title came from31:05- Themes of the films 38:22- Takeaways from making the films42:17- Raising money for conservation45:52- Filling the Void Chapter 1: Denny Cove53:39- Filling the Void Chapter 2: Rumbling Bald1:01:25- Broadening the regional perspective of Steep South1:03:25- Filmmaking’s impact on climbing advocacySteep South’s Instagram: @steepsouthFilling the Void Chapter 1- Denny Cove: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QKytNP0fFU&t=1174sFilling the Void Chapter 2- Rumbling Bald: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XA11e5CvV4E
This month we head to the Midwest to hear from Raud Kashef and Adam Brummett of the Iowa Climbers Coalition. You read that right, Iowa. No time was wasted as Peter, Raud, and Adam dove right into what makes them so passionate about climbing in a state that many might write off as not having any climbing at all. Raud and Adam prove this theory wrong and talk extensively about the great climbing opportunities in the Hawkeye State.Much of the conversation focused on the ins and outs of a major trail project that they completed at Pictured Rocks County Park with the assistance of one of Access Fund’s Conservation Teams. The project was a serious undertaking and the Iowa climbing community showed up strong each and every day. It was a clear demonstration of the Iowa climbers’ connection to place.Tune in to hear more about what’s happening in Iowa and some of the history of the Iowa Climbers Coalition dating back to the early 90s!3:13- Raud’s intro11:27- Climbing in unsuspecting areas, like Iowa17:00- Thinking “locally”27:30- Dynamics with other user groups34:12- History of the Iowa Climbers Coalition39:42- Pictured Rocks County Park48:45- Major trail project at Pictured Rocks1:06:32- Approval process for the project1:12:24- Lessons learned from the projectIowa Climbers Coalition website: https://www.iowaclimberscoalition.org/Iowa Climbers Coalition Instagram: @iowaclimbingAccess Fund article on the ICC and Pictured Rocks: https://www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/pictured-rocks-climbing-community-rallies
Each year, Access Fund rallies dozens of exceptional climbing advocates from across the country and this year was no exception. Peter had the chance to catch up with two prominent advocates based in the southeast and discuss some of the things happening in their respective areas. First up is Caleb Timmerman, marketing and outreach director with the Southeastern Climbers Coalition (SCC). Caleb’s expertise goes beyond marketing and he has a great pulse on everything that’s happening with the SCC, including one area he and Peter discuss at length: Castle Rock. The story and protection of Castle Rock is quite unique and shows what can be accomplished when multiple parties work together to conserve climbing areas. Next, Mike Reardon is the executive director of the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC). In 2019, Mike became CCC’s first full-time executive director, but his history with the organization dates way back to 2010 when he first joined the board of directors. Mike has helped spearhead many conservation successes including the most recent acquisition of the Maibauer Boulders in North Carolina. Caleb and Mike’s excitement for southeastern climbing is exemplary, so follow along as they give us a glimpse into their work and how they help make climbing happen in their local communities. Caleb 6:28- Intro/banter9:43- Recording on location: Castle Rock11:55- Caleb’s intro14:21- Caleb’s first day climbing post-injury15:25- The protection of Castle Rock24:57- Tennessee’s Outdoor Recreational Use Statute26:04- SCC’s Acquisition Committee26:46- SCC’s role at Castle Rock31:28- Happenings in Alabama and Georgia34:17- Most exciting part of hosting the conference in ChattanoogaMike35:56- Field trip to Denny Cove37:33- Mike’s intro42:01- Rocky Fork State Park46:07- C4: Carolina Climbers Conservation Corps50:42- Leaning on past successes52:11- The influence of purchasing Laurel Knob56:59- Maibauer Boulders acquisition1:00:30- Climbing Conservation Loan Program1:05:10- Most exciting part of the conferenceSoutheastern Climbers Coalition: https://www.seclimbers.org/SCC’s Instagram page: @seclimbers Carolina Climbers Coalition: https://carolinaclimbers.org/CCC’s Instagram page: @carolinaclimberscoalition Maibauer Boulders donation page: https://carolinaclimbers.org/maibauerPlug Tone Audio: https://www.plugtoneaudio.com/Plug Tone’s Instagram page: @plugtoneaudio
Though James Maples, who holds a doctorate in sociology, isn’t a climber himself, he’s still an integral member of the climbing community. As an associate professor at Eastern Kentucky University and director of the EKU Division for Regional Economic Assessment and Modeling, Maples focuses on Appalachian studies and economic impact research. This combination of interests was the impetus for James to conduct his first study in 2015 on the economic impact of climbing at Red River Gorge, Kentucky. Since, Maples has conducted multiple economic impact studies at the Red and elsewhere. He has also written numerous articles and a book on climbers and the regional economic impact of climbing at crags and boulder fields across the country. Maples has a wealth of knowledge, which he shares generously in this conversation that touches on his book, the history of climbing advocacy in rural Appalachia, and his work to support the climbing community around the country. 4:38- Red River Gorge history preamble12:49- James’ intro16:50- James’ connection to Access Fund21:23- James’ new book34:04- Red River dam project proposal38:21- Early advocacy days - Cumberland Climbers47:15- 1994 bolting ban56:28- Kentucky Heartwood lawsuit59:20- The archaeological dig at the Military Wall1:12:09- Economic impacts studies1:25:36- Management actions from the economic studies1:29:03- Potential downsides to tourism-based economies1:34:42- Climber-specific Leave No Trace studyRock Climbing in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge book: https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/57691814-rock-climbing-in-kentucky-s-red-river-gorgeEconomic Impact Study in the Red River Gorge YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxzmyFkY5hM“Do Climbers Leave No Trace” YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTFXBlCz3V4&t=197sJames’ email: james.maples@eku.edu
We’re not really sure how much free time training for the Olympics leaves you, but we’re pretty sure it’s not a whole lot. Which makes it all the more impressive that Kyra Condie’s resume boasts a number of climbing advocacy and inclusive access accomplishments, most notably as a member of the USA Climbing board of directors. A climber and advocate from a young age, Kyra first learned about Access Fund and her local climbing organization, Minnesota Climbers Association, when she was on a youth climbing team in Minnesota. Inspired by the organizations’ missions to protect and steward climbing areas, Kyra found her advocacy passion in inclusive access to climbing, especially providing access to people who otherwise might not think they belong in the climbing community. Follow along as Peter and Kyra discuss her upbringing in Minnesota, the Olympics, and what she is most passionate about in her board role with USA Climbing.1:43- Kyra’s intro3:31- Climbing in Minnesota5:49- Aspirations to be a veterinarian7:20- Prepping, qualifying and the structure of the Olympics14:57- Kyra's beginnings in climbing advocacy17:15- Advocacy in SLC21:23- Climbing festivals influence on advocacy30:51- Sentiment among Kyra's peers on advocacy32:29- Board role with USA Climbing39:51- Final thoughtsKyra’s Instagram: @kyra_condieMinnesota Climbers Association:https://www.mnclimbers.org/USA Climbing: https://usaclimbing.org/Home Crag video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2w77nWlPC8Salt Lake Climbers Alliance’s “Save Little Cottonwood Canyon”: https://www.saltlakeclimbers.org/lcc-udot-eis
On today’s episode, we’re joined by Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing and Josie McKee of the Central Wyoming Climbers Alliance. Together with these Lander locals, we discuss what it means to be a better climber. Being a better climber goes beyond improving at climbing and includes our social and environmental impacts. Kris and Josie offer their thoughts on what they have learned from other climbers that Kris has spoken with on his podcast and how Josie has addressed these on an organizational level.
Josie also dives into her role as executive director of the Central Wyoming Climbers Alliance. We talk through the organization’s mission and its latest projects, including opportunities for youth to climb the Grand Teton and tackling controversial route names in the Lander area.
Tune in to hear more of this lively discussion with Kris and Josie about being better climbers and local Lander happenings.
5:23- Kris’ intro 14:16- Josie’s intro 21:22- Founding of Power Company Climbing 30:19- WyoClimbers support for underserved communities 33:43- Working with the local guide service in Lander 35:22- Kris’ biggest lessons from podcasting 40:06- Takeaways from our mutual podcast guests 43:16- Josie’s opportunities to discuss these matters 46:46- The power of words 52:13- Route naming and other harmful words 1:03:30- Are Kris and Josie hopeful for the future? 1:05:53- The Central Wyoming Climbers Alliance/WyoClimbers 1:11:53- The BARF- Bolt and Anchor Replacement Fund 1:16:04- How climbers can stay engaged in advocacy
Kris’ Instagram: @powercompanyclimbing Power Company Climbing: https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/ Josie’s Instagram:@josie_mckee_ Central Wyoming Climbers Alliance: http://www.wyomingclimbers.org/ International Climbers Festival: https://www.climbersfestival.org/
This month, we're joined by Access Fund Southeast Regional Manager Daniel Dunn. Daniel has a unique perspective to share, thanks to his work with the Boulder Climbing Community and Front Range Climbing Stewards. We discuss his new role with Access Fund and his dedication to stewardship.
Now working regionally, Daniel collaborates with local climbing organizations, land managers, and other partners to advocate for climbing in the Southeast. We discuss what it takes to run a successful stewardship and anchor replacement program, climbing access and management differences in the Eastern and Western United States, opportunities for climbing conservation in the Southeast, and some of the major projects on his plate.
Listen in to hear more about Daniel’s career in stewardship and the latest happenings in the Southeast.
5:28 - Daniel’s intro 12:20 - Stewardship beginnings 20:13 - Anchor Replacement Program 28:27 - Retrofitting climbing areas 34:18 - What makes a successful stewardship program 39:04 - Agreements with land managers 41:17 - Southeast Regional Manager 47:45 - Rural climbing opportunities in Appalachia 52:34 - Climbing management in the eastern and western U.S. 57:31 - New acquisition in North Carolina 1:00:31 - Climbing Conservation Loan Program 1:02:38 - Other conservation opportunities in the Southeast 1:05:52 - Access Fund’s 2022 Annual Conference
Annual Conference details and registration: https://www.accessfund.org/pages/advocacy-conference-2022
Boulder Climbing Community: https://www.boulderclimbers.org/
Front Range Climbing Stewards: https://www.boulderclimbers.org/trails
Carolina Climbers Coalition: https://carolinaclimbers.org/
The Maibauer Boulders acquisition: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/climbers-buy-new-boulder-field-in-north-carolina
In this episode, we learn from Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard and Skye Kolealani, creators of the new Indigenous Field Guide. Over the course of 2021, Briana and Skye created an exceptional resource. The guide provides high-level guidance for preventing damage of cultural resources and tips for how to amplify and integrate Indigenous values regarding cultural land resources. The Field Guide received widespread praise as individuals and organizations signed on to implement these practices into their mission and operations.
Briana and Skye cite specific examples of when cultural resources were disrespected or in jeopardy. They conclude that all of us should know where, and more importantly, how we are recreating. Different places call for different practices. That’s the purpose of the Indigenous Field Guide, to provide the necessary information needed to ensure the longevity of these culturally important lands and resources. You can commit to these values by signing their pledge at https://www.indigenousfieldguide.com/pledge.
6:19 - Briana’s intro 10:21 - Skye’s intro 17:59 - Collaborating with other Hawaiian LCOs 22:42 - The Indigenous Field Guide (IDG) 57:27 - “Fake” petroglyphs 1:08:24 - The Indigenous Field Guide’s Pledge 1:20:11 - Access Fund’s support for the IDG 1:24:10 - Other organizational support for the IDG 1:30:27 - Different recreational approaches in different places 1:33:57 - Next steps and goals for the IDG
Indigenous Field Guide website: https://www.indigenousfieldguide.com/
Indigenous Field Guide Instagram: @indigenousfieldguide
Kanaka Climbers website: https://www.kanakaclimbers.com/
Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition: https://rrgcc.org/
We’re heading east on this month’s episode to interview three advocates, each representing a local climbing organization in Pennsylvania: Kate Fetterolf with Eastern Pennsylvania Alliance of Climbers, Ryan Shipp with South Central Pennsylvania Climbers, and Joel Brady with Southwestern Pennsylvania Climbers Coalition. Kate, Ryan, and Joel shared their perspective on what’s happening in their respective region of the state and also weren’t shy boasting about how great the climbing is in Pennsylvania.
Pennsylvania is rich with a wide variety of climbing opportunities. Perhaps it's mostly known for its world-class bouldering but opportunities abound to sport and trad climb as well. Each organization does a great job addressing needs and any issues in their area and have been incredibly supportive of each other. Whether it’s working through forming a new LCO, access, or closures, they can depend on each other to be a supporting network. Follow along to hear the latest on climbing advocacy in Pennsylvania.
6:20- Kate’s intro 8:30- Ryan’s intro 11:23- Joel’s intro 15:52- Kate & the Eastern PA Alliance of Climbers (EPAC) 22:34- Being in close proximity to major metro areas 29:59- Engaging with a diverse group of climbers 33:53- EPAC’s 2022 agenda 36:45- Aldo Leopold ethos 38:24- Ryan & the South Central PA Climbers (SCPC) 46:08- SCPC’s major areas and projects 58:27- SCPC’s ambassador program 1:00:54- JEDI resources 1:02:10- Joel & the Southwestern PA Climbers Coalition (SWPACC) 1:13:37- Working with the PA Gaming Commission 1:18:01- Partnering with indoor facilities 1:13:30- Recommendations for how other regional LCOs can collaborate
Eastern PA Alliance of Climbers: https://epaclimbers.org/ South Central PA Climbers: https://www.scpclimbers.org/ Southwestern PA Climbers Coalition: https://www.swpacc.org/
When you get right down to it, what we admire most about this month’s podcast guest, Dave Wiens, is his simple but deep passion for trails. Trails and trailwork connect just about everyone who likes outdoor recreation, from climbers to hikers to mountain bikers. Speaking of mountain biking, Wiens is also the executive director of the International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA) and founder of Gunnison, Colorado-based local advocacy group Gunnison Trails. Dave recognizes the importance and benefits of having access to trails for all recreational enthusiasts.
Dave and our host, Peter, get into Dave’s early days with Gunnison Trails and his current work with IMBA. They discuss IMBA’s aspiration to provide equitable access to trails through its “Close to Home” initiative and its support for the “Trails are Common Ground” initiative. Dave is a great storyteller, and his intimate knowledge of trail-based recreation provides many learning opportunities not just for climbers, but anyone who values access to trails.
4:37 - Dave’s intro & the Gunnison Valley 7:16 - Gunnison Trails & Hartman Rocks 17:01 - Gunnison Trails’ early projects 27:40 - Mountain biking & wildlife 31:41 - “System” trails 38:12 - IMBA & more local advocacy 45:38 - Dave’s start at IMBA 53:17 - IMBA’s mission 58:04 - IMBA bringing trail access “close to home” 1:06:37 - “Building” a climbing community 1:11:21 - Trails for Common Ground 1:23:54 - Climbers & Trails for Common Ground 1:26:06 - LCOs and IMBA’s local chapters
IMBA’s website: https://www.imba.com/ IMBA’s Instagram: @imba_us IMBA’s “Close to Home” Initiative: https://www.imba.com/our-focus Gunnison Trails website: https://gunnisontrails.org/ Gunnison Trails Instagram: @gunnisontrails Trails Are Common Ground: https://trailsarecommonground.org/ Outdoor Alliance: https://www.outdooralliance.org/
The guest for today's episode is author and creative writer, Chris Kalman. A storyteller at heart, Chris’s writing has landed him in the pages of Outside and Climbing Magazine with stories that make you think about both sides of the climbing coin—the good and the bad. He’s also been featured on a number of audio productions too: Dirtbag Diaries, The Firn Line, and, of course, The Cutting Edge, where he plays host himself. Chris also co-authored the guidebook for Index, Washington and has authored two fictional climbing books that take the reader on a powerful emotional journey through the ups and downs of climbing.
Chris has a particular fondness for the Cochamo Valley in South America. The pristine granite walls there have earned it the nickname “Yosemite Valley of South America.” Cochamo has gained more well-deserved exposure in climbing media due its pristine nature and world class landscape, but with more notoriety and exposure comes increased impacts. But impacts also present an opportunity to drive stewardship efforts and inspire the protection of a place. Chris and Peter use Cochamo as an international example of the nexus between tourism and conservation and get into what Chris has done to help proactively manage impacts in Cochamo, while also keeping it available for people to climb on its stunning granite walls.
6:36 - Intro to Chris 12:57 - Authoring the Index guidebook 14:46 - The best worst trad climbing in the U.S. 18:24 - Experience working for the National Park Service 26:46 - “It’s Time to Rethink Climbing on Devils Tower” 40:53 - Chris as an author 47:03 - “Dammed if You Don’t” 1:01:07 - “We Haven’t Messed It Up Yet” 1:06:25 - Preservation vs. conservation 1:07:47 - Friends of Cochamo 1:14:47 - Where you can find some of Chris’ other work
Chris’ website: http://www.chriskalman.com/
Chris’ Instagram: @chriswritekalman
The Best Worst Trad Climbing in the U.S.: https://www.outdoorresearch.com/blog/lumpy-ridge-the-best-worst-trad-climbing-in-the-united-states
Devils Tower article: https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/why-its-time-rethink-climbing-ban-devils-tower/
NPS info on the Devils Tower closure: https://www.nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/currentclimbingclosures.htm
Climbers- Honor the June Closure at Devils Tower: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/climbers-honor-the-june-closure-at-devils-tower
Patagonia Cochamo article: https://www.patagonia.com/stories/coming-to-bat-for-cochamo/story-71772.html
As Above, So Below: http://www.chriskalman.com/books/as-above-so-below
Dammed If You Don’t: http://www.chriskalman.com/books/uf64nh7hgb6gurd3mtkwkdagckky5a
Lace up your ice boots for a trip up north to hear from Valdez Adventure Alliance (VAA). Based in southeastern Alaska, the organization has accomplished some amazing things with just two people on staff. On this month’s episode, Lanette Oliver and Michelle LeBlanc, executive director and chief financial officer respectively, passionately describe how values of community and connection manifest in an organization that weaves together outdoor programs, stewardship, and major events like the Valdez Ice Festival.
With the Chugach Range in their backyard, VAA is focused on bringing people into the outdoors who will not only appreciate it, but need it. We discuss their proudest stewardship accomplishments, the challenges of operating with a small staff, and how they keep their focus on getting underserved and underrepresented communities out into the incredible natural landscapes that the 49th state has to offer.
5:17- Lanette’s intro 10:07- Michelle’s intro 12:59- Alaska rock climbing 16:09-Valdez Adventure Alliance 20:53- VAA’s programming 30:34- The “barrier” of being better than the best 33:02- Coordinating among the staff, board and advisory council 38:40- VAA’s stewardship efforts 44:45- “Ice stewardship” 55:54- Valdez Ice Festival 1:01:57- Fat Bike Bash 1:03:04- The VAA’s podcast 1:07:53- Defining “ice stewardship”
Valdez Adventure Alliance: https://valdezadventurealliance.com/
Valdez Ice Festival: https://valdezadventurealliance.com/ice-fest
Valdez Fat Bike Bash: https://valdezadventurealliance.com/fat
Valdez Adventure Alliance Instagram: @valdezadventureallianceinfo
Mixtress YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6oFqJ98mTlU
In fall of 2021, Access Fund started the new Climber Steward program in Indian Creek. On this month’s podcast, Peter sits down with Lauren Hebert and Johanna Cogen, the inaugural Climber Stewards. They posted up in the Creek during peak season this fall to share information and resources on how to minimize impact and enjoy climbing resources responsibly—especially important in the fragile desert ecosystem.
With the lure of free coffee, Lauren and Johanna engaged with hundreds of new and seasoned Indian Creek climbers alike to educate them on pressing issues specific to Indian Creek such as dispersed camping, human and dog waste, and respecting sensitive cultural resources. Tune in to hear their reflections on the first season of the Climber Steward program and what kind of impact it will have on climbers and other visitors.
5:52- Lauren and Johanna’s intros 10:38- The Climber Steward position 17:25- Prior conservation and education experience 21:22- Indian Creek stakeholders 23:19- Influence of native values 26:52- Climbers’ relationship with ranchers 29:34- Conversations with the Climber Stewards 36:19- Jeopardy! 39:16- Stewardship season and locations 42:21- Data collection as a goal for the future 43:57- Crag chats 46:22- Other Climber Steward responsibilities 49:16- Personal experiences in Indian Creek 53:45- Reflections on the first Climber Steward season 57:07- Lauren and Johanna’s definition of advocacy
Climber Steward program: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/access-fund-to-deploy-climber-stewards-at-indian-creek
Access Fund’s Vertical Times: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/newsletter
The guest for today’s episode is writer, podcaster, and perhaps most notably, the creator of the Climbing Zine, Luke Mehall. Originally hailing from the midwest, Luke was first exposed to climbing in Southern Illinois and at first, he didn’t really take to it. Through the trials and tribulations of being a young adult, Luke truly found his way when he moved to Gunnison, Colorado and began putting pen to paper—and climbing a lot more.
Luke’s pursuits have led him to become a prominent figure in the climbing community. Whether it’s the Climbing Zine, his books, his podcast, his first ascents, or the newly formed Durango Climbers Coalition, his advocacy and love for the sport is exemplary.
Follow along as Luke walks us through some of his early influences, lessons he’s taken from the Zine, Indian Creek, and much more.
5:23- Banter 9:26- Luke’s early influences 13:38- Luke’s intro to climbing 18:21- The evolution of Luke’s writing 24:04- Print media 30:48- Lessons learned from Zine authors 37:27- Indian Creek: not love at first sight 48:18- Changes over the years in Indian Creek 53:56- Rock climbing and native values 58:20- The Dirtbag State of Mind Podcast 1:03:51- Durango Climbers Coalition 1:13:38- Luke’s definition of advocacy
Luke’s Instagram: @lukemehall_writer Climbing Zine’s Instagram: @theclimbingzine Climbing Zine website: https://climbingzine.com/ Dirtbag State of Mind Podcast: https://climbingzine.com/dirtbag-state-of-mind-podcast/ Durango Climbers Coalition: https://www.facebook.com/DurangoClimbersCoalition/
Our guest for today’s episode is Felipe Proaño. Felipe is a professional climber based in Quito, Ecuador and is the founder and former president of Fondo de Acceso Andino — the equivalent of Access Fund in Ecuador. Fondo de Acceso Andino is a community-focused organization that works with members of rural communities in Ecuador to discuss opportunities for climbing development and how it can support the community and its people.
Felipe has led collaborative efforts to help diversify these communities’ economies to include tourism and has found ways to ensure that climbing development can benefit everyone. He is dedicated to showing just how impactful climbing can be in helping to alleviate the challenges rural communities face and providing resources that they might lack.
Follow along as Felipe shares some of the trials, tribulations and success stories in advocating for a sustainable future for climbing in Ecuador.
5:29- Banter 7:20- Felipe’s intro 13:00- Columns of Tangan & the E35 Area 16:33- Advocacy in Ecuador 20:06- The Towers of Simiatug 27:07- The health and economic challenges in rural communities 32:41- Reinvesting capital in the communities 35:00- Finding a leadership role 42:39- Land management in Ecuador 53:11- Felipe's favorite place to climb in the U.S. 57:44- Fondo de Acceso Andino 1:05:20- Promoting climbing & guidebooking 1:10:47- Similarities in access & advocacy 1:16:36- Felipe's definition of advocacy
Felipe’s Instagram: @feli.proclimer
Felipe’s website: https://www.feli-pro.com/
Fondo de Acceso Andino: http://fondoaccesoandino.org
2020 Climbing Advocacy Conference Workshop: https://accessfund-workshops.secure-platform.com/a/organizations/main/home
Our guest for today’s episode is Kendra Stritch. Kendra is a competitive ice climber and serves as the board president of the Minnesota Climbers Association (MCA). Minnesota has a lot to offer in terms of climbing, whether it’s rock or ice. As an LCO working on a state-wide level, the MCA works with local Minnesota-based climbing organizations and land managers to help ensure these special Midwestern gems are properly cared for.
Aside from running the MCA and her personal climbing accomplishments, Kendra is very motivated to pursue other sports and activities and is always up for a new challenge. Kendra has taken a lot of inspiration from the folks she has met while traveling the world for ice climbing competitions and brings that inspiration back to her clinics and advocacy for climbing in Minnesota. The MCA has made a tremendous impact on Minnesota climbing over the years and Kendra discusses a few of the projects of which she is particularly proud.
3:55- Adventure racing 6:45- Log rolling! 10:12- Life strategies 12:28- Kendra’s intro and climbing history 22:49- UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Tour 27:18- Drawing inspiration from local and international climbing communities 32:32- Teaching advocacy in her clinics 34:35- Being an ASC Microplastic Sample Collector 37:13- Minnesota climbing 42:40- Sandstone Ice Park 46:00- Minnesota Climbers Association 48:52- Impetus for forming the MCA 53:50- Challenges and opportunities for being a state-level climbing organization 57:28- Working with state land managers 1:01:42- Collaboration with other Midwestern LCOs 1:03:38- 2019 Midwest Climbing Advocacy Summit 1:07:29- Kendra’s favorite successes 1:14:04- Kendra’s definition of advocacy
Minnesota Climbers Association: https://www.mnclimbers.org/
MCA’s Instagram: @mnclimbersassociation
Kendra’s Instagram: @kendrastritch
Sandstone Ice Park: https://sandstoneicefest.com/index.php/ice-park-access/
Our guest for today’s episode is Jon Hawk. Jon is the Director of Gym Operations at Memphis Rox in Tennessee. Based in Soulsville, an underserved neighborhood in South Memphis, Memphis Rox serves as an access point to mentorship and helps community members overcome life’s obstacles. Memphis Rox takes pride in not being for profit, but being for people. It is the first non-profit gym of its size, at 32,000 square feet. With their “pay what you can” fee structure, they make sure nobody is turned away from the gym.
Climbing serves as the community’s avenue to foster relationships in a safe space. As their motto says, “we climb higher, when we climb together”. Jon walks us through how Memphis Rox serves as a model for providing equitable access to climbing, as well as the programs offered beyond climbing that help meet social needs for the people in the Soulsville community.
5:00- Jon’s intro and where to climb around Memphis 12:18- Memphis Rox’s mission statement 13:35- Jon’s history and position with Memphis Rox 22:10- The origin of Memphis Rox 25:12- Why Soulsville? 28:28- Memphis Rox being service-based 32:53- The non-profit business model 38:43- Memphis Rox’s board structure 40:57- Professional development programming 50:54- Mission statement, continued 55:45- What’s next for Memphis Rox? 1:01:31- Jon’s definition of advocacy
Memphis Rox: https://www.memphisrox.org/
Memphis Rox Instagram: @memphisroxclimbing
Soul Deep film: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xo_MhNqekbU
New Orleans Boulder Lounge: https://www.climbnobl.com/
Tufas Boulder Lounge: https://tufasboulderlounge.com/
Nosotros Climbing Gym: https://www.gonosotros.com/
Our guest for today’s episode is Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard. Briana sits on the board of the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) and is very active in the world of social advocacy. Beyond her role and responsibilities as a board member, she has contributed tremendously to the RRGCC’s social efforts by coordinating L8 events, which aim to provide barrier-free entry to climbing for folks in marginalized communities or who are new to climbing.
When it comes to social advocacy, Briana has become a household name. As a dedicated rock climber, advocate, mom, and wife, she sets high, aspirational goals for herself in all these areas and provides the inspiration in a genuine and honest way for others to follow. Listen in as we discuss her role with the RRGCC, the state of social advocacy in the climbing community, and some of her personal climbing stories.
1:46- Briana’s intro 4:23- Briana’s climbing history 7:35- Lessons learned from the RRGCC 11:45- Briana’s other favorite crag 13:44- The road out west 16:45- Briana’s role with the RRGCC 21:41- L8 and other events 30:41- Responding to negativity 37:18- Briana’s advocacy journey 51:25- What’s the most pressing issue in climbing? 58:36- Briana’s personal dedication to climbing 1:10:21- Briana’s definition of advocacy
Briana’s Instagram: @dirtbagmomma RRGCC outreach and education: https://rrgcc.org/outreach-and-education/ A Face in the Crowd: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106643409/out-of-africa-aka-a-face-in-the-crowd
Our guest for today’s episode is the president of the Bay Area Climbers Coalition (BACC), Peter Monks. Peter recently took over as president in January of this year and he shared an impressive amount of information and stories about the organization. Holding the responsibility over the land of “micro crags”, the BACC has done a remarkable job building a rapport with the local community and with an array of different land managers.
The BACC has made it a point to be community-facing. Through their educational programming and community events, they highly value bringing people together. We discussed their gym-to-crag events at length, how they structure them, what attendees can expect to get out of them, and how other LCOs can bolster their educational programming. Peter’s humble approach to leadership and long history with the BACC will undoubtedly put him on a successful path as president.
3:19- Peter’s intro & climbing history 11:17- Today’s overcrowding issues 15:02- Peter’s role as president 19:26- BACC’s team & organizational structure 24:52- The Bay Area: the land of “micro crags” 31:20- Working with a variety of land managers 34:14- Is climbing a priority with these land managers? 37:57- BACC’s community engagement efforts 42:15- Engaging with diverse populations 49:27- Gym to Crag educational programming 59:48- Establishing relationships with indoor facilities 1:05:41- Gym to “Crag” vs. Gym to “Boulder” 1:11:45- Recommendations for educational programming 1:15:29- Peter’s definition of advocacy
Bay Area Climbers Coalition: https://bayareaclimberscoalition.org/
BACC’s Instagram: @bayareaclimberscoalition
Access Fund’s Conference Presentation Application: https://bit.ly/3vBpFTv
The guest for this month’s episode is Access Fund’s Policy Analyst, Curt Shannon. Access Fund and other allies have been working on protecting Oak Flat, an incredible area outside of Phoenix, Arizona, for over 15 years, and Shannon has been focused on protecting this world-class climbing area for almost a decade. Oak Flat is under threat of mining, which would forever decimate not just the area’s climbing resources but also significant Indigenous resources.
In March of 2021, climbers and members of Indigenous tribes caught a break in protecting Oak Flat. We aren’t across the finish line quite yet, but in this podcast, Curt expresses his optimism on where we stand right now and what the future holds for Oak Flat. Follow along as Curt recaps several significant events that have influenced the fate of what would be the largest loss of climbing resources on America’s public lands.
5:30- Curt’s Intro 11:45- Intro to Oak Flat 17:24- Issues surrounding Oak Flat 20:24- Southeast Arizona Land Exchange and Conservation Act 26:41- Curt’s involvement and role in Oak Flat 31:32- One climbing area for another? 35:52- Curt’s position as Access Fund’s Policy Analyst 38:52- The 2020 Environmental Impact Statement (EIS) 42:09- Oak Flat’s historical designation 45:24- The Save Oak Flat Act 50:15- Current happenings and Oak Flat’s future 56:24- Resources and how to learn more 59:02- Curt’s definition of advocacy
Oak Flat Saved (For Now): https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/breaking-oak-flat-saved-for-now
Save Oak Flat Act: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/new-bill-seeks-to-save-oak-flat
Oak Flat’s Beginnings: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/new-land-exchange-proposal-introduced-into-congress-for-oak-flat-az
The EIS: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/in-final-days-trump-initiates-transfer-of-oak-flat-access-fund-sues
H.R. 1884: https://www.congress.gov/bill/117th-congress/house-bill/1884?q=%7B%22search%22%3A%5B%22hr+1884%22%5D%7D&s=3&r=1
S. 915: https://www.congress.gov/bill/117th-congress/senate-bill/915?q=%7B%22search%22%3A%5B%22s+915%22%5D%7D&s=2&r=1
Inter Tribal Council of Arizona: https://itcaonline.com/
Arizona Mining Reform Coalition: https://azminingreform.org/
Center for Biological Diversity: https://www.biologicaldiversity.org/
Earthworks: https://www.earthworks.org/
Grand Canyon Chapter of the Sierra Club: https://www.sierraclub.org/arizona
The guests for today’s episode are Audrey and Curtis Gale-Dyer. This power couple serves as the land management team for the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) in Kentucky. As land managers, they are responsible for planning and implementing large- and small-scale stewardship projects all around the Red River Gorge. It’s no secret that the “Red” holds miles and miles of cliff line that attract thousands of visitors each year from around the world. As you can imagine, stewarding a destination area of this size is no small task, but Audrey and Curtis approach their responsibility with confidence and passion.
Audrey and Curtis have been a part of the RRGCC for many years now, and their experience in planning and executing stewardship projects is exemplary. In this podcast, they walk us through what it takes to successfully plan and execute large-scale stewardship projects, including recruiting, making sure you have the proper tools and resources, and more. They also talk about the aftermath of the flooding events that the Red and surrounding areas saw in early March. In conclusion, Audrey and Curtis share some of the most common issues they often face and talk about a couple of their personal favorite stewardship projects. If you’re interested in the stewardship side of advocacy, this episode is for you.
Enjoy!
5:43 - Curtis’ & Audrey’s intros 10:12 - Recent flooding in Kentucky 14:21 - The flooding’s impact on the Red 18:30 - Working as land managers for the RRGCC 26:13 - General stewardship planning 37:15 - Planning: assessment 42:17 - Planning: recruiting 46:00 - Planning: tools & resources 48:56 - Most common projects 50:01 - Reasons why they use certain infrastructure 52:21 - Audrey & Curtis’ favorite projects 59:01 - Don’t forget the fine details! 1:03:53 - Community involvement 1:06:38 - Curtis’ takeaways 1:07:27 - Curtis’ definition of advocacy 1:08:33 - Audrey’s definition of advocacy
Red River Gorge Climber’s Coalition: http://rrgcc.org/ Red River Gorge Climber’s Coalition Instagram: @rrgcc Red River Gorge Climber’s Coalition Facebook: @rrgcc Red River Gorge GoFundMe page: https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-red-river-gorge-2021-flood-disaster Access Fund’s Top 10 Threatened Climbing Areas: https://www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/10-climbing-areas-in-crisis
The guest for this month’s episode is Sarah Garlick. Based in North Conway, New Hampshire, Sarah serves as the board president of Friends of the Ledges, an advocacy group that covers the White Mountains of New Hampshire and Maine. Perhaps the most well-known climbing area in the region is Cathedral Ledge, home to some of the most classic and iconic routes in the Northeast. Friends of the Ledges is a fairly new climbing advocacy group, but it has had an incredible impact during its short tenure. It has seen multiple conservation wins in recent years and has replaced a significant amount of hardware through a rebolting initiative.
Friends of the Ledges is in a unique position, tasked with managing year-round climbing opportunities at places like Cathedral Ledge. Cathedral offers it all: rock, ice, mixed, and drytooling. During the winter months, winter routes often overlap with summer rock routes. This has led to permanent damage to the rock from crampons and ice tools. Defining ethics on how to tread lightly when it comes to climbing summer routes in the winter is something that Sarah and the rest of the board are working hard on. Follow along as Sarah passionately talks about how Friends of the Ledges is managing this issue and about other important work the organization is doing to steward and preserve climbing in the White Mountains.
Enjoy!
5:07- Sarah’s Intro 10:13- Sarah as a “science communicator” 14:30- Friends of the Ledges 19:56- Friend’s management area 21:47- A “friends group” vs. an LCO 23:44- Managing winter climbing 26:35- Winter climbing ethics 32:31- Cryokenesis 35:48- Land management and access 36:47- Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges conservation wins 42:14- Band M Ledge conservation win 46:11- Bolt replacement 50:36- Sarah’s definition of advocacy
Friends of the Ledges website: https://www.nhledges.org/
Sarah’s Instagram: @sarahgarlick
Rock & Ice article, “Style Matters”: https://rockandice.com/opinion/style-matters-cryokinesis-and-the-new-ethics-in-new-hampshire-winter-climbing/?fbclid=IwAR0oFaF4Y-TNHw0GqaL6_0_NcvL6zP5G5QT-N7XV4R1EEuI4AInHQlGEUew
Mount Washington Conservation Win: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/a-win-in-the-mount-washington-valley
Band M Ledge Conservation Win: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/climbing-access-restored-at-new-hampshires-band-m-ledge
The guest for today’s episode is Ben Scott. Ben is perhaps best known for his role as president of the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition (NCCC), a position he has held for more than a decade. But Ben’s creative nature has taken him well beyond his experience as NCCC president. Ben has etched his name in the history books by establishing many first ascents around the greater Fort Collins area, using his skills as a graphic designer to publish several guidebooks for the region, and creating several dozen short films documenting northern Colorado climbing. His passion for the region is unmatched.
The NCCC was born out of the need to solidify legitimacy around an outdoor climbing competition at Horsetooth Reservoir, located immediately west of Fort Collins. Once he took over as president, Ben quickly saw the need for the organization to focus on the greater Fort Collins area, rather than just one area and one event all year long. Since then, the group has helped replace hundreds of bolts and anchors, build sustainable trails, and maintain strong community engagement. After 2020 put a lot of NCCC’s work on hold, the organization now has some great projects lined up for this year, particularly in the aftermath of the Cameron Peak fire. Cheers to Ben for leading the NCCC into another year of climbing advocacy.
Enjoy!
0:00- Ben’s Intro 9:49- Origins of NCCC 13:49- Ben’s vision for the NCCC 16:17- Reflecting on the past 10 years with NCCC 19:06- Working with land managers 30:40- Cameron Peak Fire 39:51- NCCC’s educational efforts 42:41- Fixed anchor replacement 46:16- Lowering vs. rappelling 49:41- Success of events and volunteer recruitment 53:37- Guidebooking 1:00:46- Ben’s short climbing videos 1:04:26- Ben’s definition of advocacy
Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition: https://nococlimbing.org/
NCCC’s Instagram: @nococlimber
Ben’s Instagram: @poudre_guide
Lory State Park: https://cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/parks/Lory
Cameron Peak Fire information: https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/6964/
Ben’s short climbing videos: https://vimeo.com/user3347032
Poudre Canyon Guidebook, 3rd edition: https://www.fixedpin.com/collections/climbing/products/poudre-canyon-rock-climbing-guide-3rd-edition
The guest for today’s episode is Access Fund’s fearless leader, executive director Chris Winter. As executive director, Chris leads the charge on organizational development and holds a pulse on all operations of the organization. The unprecedented events of 2020 forced Chris and his team to think on their feet and quickly react to keep their strong work going. We spent our time together recapping the major events of 2020 and their impact on the climbing community. From the pandemic pushing more people outside to the climbing community looking inward following the racial injustices of 2020, it all forced us to take a deeper look at what can impact our community.
Clichés about 2020 aside, Access Fund stayed resilient and curated an impressive list of accomplishments throughout the year. They did what they do best by spending hours stewarding climbing areas, conserving climbing areas, and advocating for climbers on Capitol Hill. The climbing community and our resources would look a lot different without this organization and the incredible work of local climbing organizations around the country. Climbers know how to stay resilient, and it’s clearly reflected in the work that happens day in and day out.
Enjoy!
4:50 - Chris’ Intro 9:57 - Experience as an Environmental Lawyer 12:45 - Private Land Conservation 15:31 - Access Fund’s Impact 16:30 - Agenda for 2020 18:51 - Prioritizing Projects 22:51 - Valuing Outdoor Spaces 24:01 - Working w/Land Managers & Congressional Staffers 29:19 - Weather 2020, Climber Style 35:22 - To Our Community 37:46 - Turning Values into Action 41:24 - Top 12 Climbing Victories of 2020 49:22 - The Future for Access Fund & Climbing
Gnarly Nutrition: https://gognarly.com/
Top 12 Climbing Victories of 2020: https://www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/top-10-climbing-advocacy-victories-of-2020
Weathering 2020, Climbing Style: https://www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/the-power-of-the-climbing-mentality
To Our Community: https://www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/to-our-community
COVID-19 Crushing Climbing Areas: https://www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/how-covid-19-is-crushing-our-climbing-areas
Great American Outdoors Act: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/victory-climbers-help-pass-great-american-outdoors-act
Moab Oil & Gas Leases: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/breaking-blm-cancels-plans-to-auction-85-000-acres-around-moab-amid-pressure-from-climbers
John D. Dingell Jr., Conservation, Recreation and Management Act: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/president-signs-public-lands-bill-wilderness-climbing-protections-written-into-law
This month’s guests are Veronica Baker and Dani Dobrot. Veronica and Dani are, respectively, the executive director and director of community engagement of The Climbing Initiative. Both Veronica and Dani are passionate climbers who have traveled to the far reaches of the globe in pursuit of climbing. It was through their world travels that they both noticed an opportunity to engage with the global climbing community to create a more sustainable and equitable world through rock climbing.
The Climbing Initiative is on a mission to support climbing communities worldwide by conducting research, engaging with local communities, and fostering partnerships. What they have found is that climbing is a powerful tool to drive positive change and a force for good, whether that is economically, environmentally, or socially. As the culture around the sport is ever changing and becoming more popular, The Climbing Initiative is filling a very important role in climbing advocacy, using global perspectives to create best practices for local solutions. As the organization continues to grow, be on the lookout for ways to get involved and learn more about their work.
Enjoy!
7:39- Veronica’s intro 8:38- Dani’s intro 15:37-TCI’s mission: Research 20:56- Future case studies 22:21- TCI’s mission: Community engagement 25:08- Ability to advocate 29:57- TCI’s mission: Partnerships 32:23- Partnership: Escalando Fronteras 37:31- Turning research into action 43:28- 2020 Climbing Advocacy Conference 47:29- Climbing as an economic force 50:42- Maintaining culture qualitatively 56:39- Favorite workshops from the conference 1:00:48- The big 3 takeaways 1:10:15- What’s next for TCI?
The Climbing Initiative: https://climbinginitiative.org/
The Climbing Initiative’s Instagram: @theclimbinginitiative
Sign up & view the 2020 Climbing Advocacy Conference Workshops: https://accessfund-workshops.secure-platform.com/a/organizations/main/home
“An FA for Access Fund” - Rock & Ice: https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/an-fa-for-access-fund-the-first-ever-international-climbing-advocacy-conference/
Climbing Advocacy Conference Recap - Rock & Ice article: https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/climbing-advocacy-conference-a-global-perspective-on-local-solutions-recap/
Acceso PanAm: http://accesopanam.org/
Escalando Fronteras: https://escalandofronteras.org/en/
Fundacion Acceso Andino: http://fondoaccesoandino.org/
This month’s guest is Graham Zimmerman. Graham is a professional alpinist, filmmaker, and staunch climate advocate. Through the past couple decades of traveling around the world, prioritizing climbing over everything else, the red flags and telltale signs of a changing environment shifted to the forefront of Graham’s mind. He decided to ramp up his commitment to climbing—and the environment.
Graham’s approach to advocacy is rooted in the notion of being an “imperfect advocate.” He acknowledges that he, along with everyone else, is imperfect. But that doesn’t stop him from doing whatever is in his power to raise awareness about our most pressing environmental issues. Graham has used his platforms strategically this year to educate, inform, and ultimately get people out there to vote in the election. Graham shares his experiences and knowledge to give us that gentle nudge to get engaged, imperfections and all.
Enjoy!
8:52- Intro & reflection on 2020
11:01- Being awarded a Piolet d’or
20:18- Path to advocacy
29:34- Responsibilities with Protect our Winters
31:07- Experience with Climb the Hill
34:51- Power of storytelling
38:09- Climb the Hill 2020
42:26- Public lands victories
45:53- Public lands policy vs. climate policy
48:13- Evolution of climbing advocacy
49:39- The Outdoor State
54:18- Social media & voting
58:10- Imperfect Advocacy
1:03:55- “My vote doesn’t matter” 1:06:28- Graham’s podcast, “Wildfire”
1:09:43- Books and other resources
1:14:20- Final remarks
Graham’s Instagram page: @grahamzimmerman
Protect Our Winters: https://protectourwinters.org/
Protect Our Winters Instagram page: @protectourwinters
The Outdoor State: https://protectourwinters.org/the-outdoor-state/
An Imperfect Advocate: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYiC5XB2Vyg
Bedrock Film Works: https://www.bedrockfilmworks.com/home
Gnarly Nutrition: https://gognarly.com/
2020 Climbing Advocacy Conference: https://www.accessfund.org/pages/climbing-advocacy-conference
The Climbing Initiative: https://climbinginitiative.org/
Great American Outdoors Act: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/victory-climbers-help-pass-great-american-outdoors-act
Moab Oil & Gas Leases: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/breaking-blm-cancels-plans-to-auction-85-000-acres-around-moab-amid-pressure-from-climbers
John D. Dingell, Jr., Conservation, Recreation, and Management Act: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/president-signs-public-lands-bill-wilderness-climbing-protections-written-into-law
Graham’s & REI’s Podcast Trailer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_0KnWaRZPI&feature=emb_title
Harvest the Vote book: https://www.harvestthevotebook.com/
Dune novels: https://www.amazon.com/Dune-Frank-Herbert/dp/0441172717
This month’s episode features multiple guests who share their insights and experiences in the space of justice, equity, diversity, and inclusion. The guests include Access Fund staff member Taimur Ahmad, founder of Brown Girls Climb and Access Fund board member Bethany Lebewitz, and Access Fund board member Kenji Haroutunian. In light of recent events concerning social justice, both nationally and within the climbing community, our guests give us some powerful insights on the importance of social justice and why climbers should care about these matters.
We all come from different backgrounds and experiences, so understanding this topic can be challenging and uncomfortable for some. This opens up opportunities for learning, as these guests share their experiences in climbing over the years, their thoughts on route naming, and what they are optimistic about for the future of climbing. Taimur, Bethany, and Kenji leave us with a lot to reflect on and suggestions about how to move forward in our respective climbing careers with these important ideas in mind.
Enjoy!
3:55- Episode welcome and Taimur’s intro
5:48- Bethany’s intro
6:46- Kenji’s intro
9:16- Progression of DEI over the last 30 years
13:07- Impacts on Bethany’s climbing experience
17:25- Founding Brown Girls Climb
19:25- Defining leadership
22:45- Impacts of Kenji’s climbing experience
28:20- Impacts of Taimur’s climbing experience
32:09- Social justice & climbing
40:52- Re-naming routes
59:08- Coming from different background & relationship building
1:02:50- Being action-oriented- What can climbers do?
1:21:38- Optimism for the future of climbing
Why Route Names Matter: https://www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/why-route-names-matter
Four Ways LCOs Can Make the Climbing Community More Inclusive: https://www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/4-ways-lcos-can-make-the-climbing-community-more-inclusive
Renaming Routes at Ten Sleep: https://www.climbing.com/news/ten-sleep-route-names-changed-to-honor-racial-justice-movement/
Power Company Climbing: https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/uprising-resources
Brown Girls Climb: IG and Facebook: @browngirlsclimb https://www.browngirlsclimb.com/ https://www.colorthecrag.com/
This is part two of my conversation with the Access Fund–Jeep Conservation Teams. Today is Annie and Mat from the East Conservation Team. This dynamic duo is responsible for the crags and boulders throughout the Eastern United States. As a regional team, they spend extended amounts of time in one spot, completing major stewardship projects at popular areas such as Rumney and Cathedral Ledge, where they are currently working.
Annie and Mat bring extensive experience from working on a conservation corps in North Carolina prior to joining Access Fund. They are now taking their passion for stewardship and their newly found love of climbing to care for our treasured climbing resources across the Eastern United States.
Enjoy!
0:27 – The day’s field work
1:48 – Annie’s intro
3:10 – Conservation before climbing
4:04 – Mat’s intro
4:54 – Conservation corps into Access Fund’s Conservation Team
7:26 – Cathedral Ledge and this year’s work
9:18 – Restore Rumney campaign
10:23 – Stewardship in a wet climate
12:30 – Best trail-building material
15:07 – Stewarding crags vs. bouldering areas
19:30 – The stewardship process
24:14 – What to expect at a stewardship day
27:04 – Volunteer coordination amidst COVID
30:47 – Project completion
32:18 – The team’s climbing experience
35:18 – Conservation team in your area
Climbing Area Stewardship- https://www.accessfund.org/learn/for-advocates/climbing-area-stewardship
Restoring Climbing Areas- https://www.accessfund.org/our-causes/sustainable-climbing-areas
Can Climbers Save the Economy- https://www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/a-bold-plan-can-climbers-help-save-the-economy
Appalachian Mountain Club- https://www.outdoors.org/
White Mountain Trail Collective- https://wmtrailcollective.org/
Vehicles for Charity- https://www.vehiclesforcharity.org/ (866) 628-2277
My guests today are Loryn Posladek and Kyle Leihsing. Together they make up the Access Fund–Jeep National Conservation Team. As the national team, they are lucky enough to travel across the country for 10 months out of the year, stopping at many different climbing areas along the way to conduct trail work, educate climbers on sustainable trail use, and host tabling events at gyms and climbing festivals.
Their current project involves working on an accessible/adaptive trail to a crag outside of Estes Park, Colorado. Working closely with adaptive climber Quinn Brett, they are aiming to set a standard for adaptive access on trails to climbing areas. Prior to their work in Estes, they were quarantined in Indian Creek for an extensive period of time, working on trails with the West Conservation Team with no volunteers! This speaks to the level of passion and dedication they have for caring for our nation’s climbing.
The importance of volunteering and stewardship as a main pillar of Access Fund’s mission to “protect America’s climbing” is undeniable. They say that climbers should be drawn to a “higher calling” to be a steward and advocate for this sport. Otherwise, just as a trail is not permanent, neither is access to our beloved climbing areas. Stewardship can be interpreted in multiple ways, and getting out there and getting your hands dirty is just one of them.
Enjoy!
0:23 – Current fieldwork
1:30 – Accessible/adaptive trail work
10:4 5– “Invisible” recreation management
12:56 – Team intros
15:21 – Defining stewardship
21:27 – Geographical differences in stewardship
23:44 – Managerial differences in stewardship
25:00 – Structural considerations for building trails
27:46 – Implications of COVID-19 on stewardship
33:44 – Being “guest facing” and interacting with climbers
39:34 – Importance of volunteering
44:00 – Operations of the national team vs. the regional teams
46:55 – The importance of stewardship in “protecting America’s climbing”
Climbing Area Stewardship- https://www.accessfund.org/learn/for-advocates/climbing-area-stewardship
Restoring Climbing Areas- https://www.accessfund.org/our-causes/sustainable-climbing-areas
Can climbers have save the economy- https://www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/a-bold-plan-can-climbers-help-save-the-economy
Idaho Conservation Corps- https://www.idahocc.org/
Rocky Mountain Conservancy- https://rmconservancy.org/
My guest today is Mark Kenyon. Mark is a hunter, author, fellow-podcaster, and dedicated conservationist. He is the first guest of the show who is not a climber! Through rich outdoor experiences growing up, Mark took a dive deep into the world of conservation and public lands history. Now his entrepreneurial experience in conservation is nothing short of exceptional. The combination of hard work with his podcast, Wired to Hunt; his private land conservation efforts on the Back 40 project; and through his book, That Wild Country, his passion for and knowledge for our nation’s wild lands runs deep.
The main theme of the episode revolves around the notion of “public lands unite us.” We talk extensively about how the conservation and outdoor community, including hunters and climbers, have rallied together at imperative moments to create positive change when threats to our public lands were imminent. These victories we have seen in recent years are due to the effort and passion among all outdoor users joining forces. Mark provides a fresh perspective on the current state of our public lands through the eyes of a hunter, and walks us through where we started, where we have been, and where we are going.
0:31 – Intro
1:31 – Mark Kenyon: Hunter and angler, not a climber
4:02 – Conservation awareness
6:00 – More than just a public lands user
6:55 – Challenging assumptions about public lands and conservation
10:43 – Mark’s podcast, Wired to Hunt, and his experience at Google
17:42 – The hunter’s paradox
19:50 – Lessons and takeaways from Wired to Hunt
22:50 – The Back 40
26:43 – Transactional vs. participatory relationship with the outdoors
28:32 – “Giving away” the Back 40
29:22 – Mark’s book, That Wild Country
33:20 – Starting his book with the Bundys and the standoff at the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge
36:07 – Not here just on behalf of the hunting and fishing communities
38:24 – Are hunters the original conservationists?
44:15 – Declining numbers of hunters and anglers
49:22 – Top threats to climbers and hunters
53:10 – Joining forces and the resiliency of the conservation community
1:03:07 – Tools and resources
Mark’s Instagram: @wiredtohunt
Wired to Hunt: http://wiredtohunt.com/
The Back 40 Project: https://www.themeateater.com/watch/series/back-40
Back 40 Mini Series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOHFTvDmsbE
That Wild Country: https://www.amazon.com/That-Wild-Country-Journey-Americas/dp/1542043042/ref=tmm_hrd_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=&sr=
High Country News: https://www.hcn.org/
Theodore Roosevelt Conservation Partnership: https://www.trcp.org/
Center for Western Priorities: https://westernpriorities.org/
“Public Lands Unite Us”: https://www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/our-public-lands-can-unite-us
This month’s guest is Scott Underwood. Scott sits on the board of the Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) and spearheads the Olympic Peninsula Climbers chapter of the WCC. He also leads the Washington Anchor Replacement Project (WARP). He has been an influential figure in Washington state because of his extraordinary rebolting and anchor replacement efforts over the years. This year, Access Fund awarded him a well-deserved Climbing Advocate award.
Scott and I cover all things bolting. He shared some of his personal experiences, how to identify bad bolts, how to start and structure a rebolting initiative, and much more. Old hardware and poor bolts are something many crags face around the country. The work required to install modern hardware takes a significant amount of time and dedication. Kudos to people like Scott, who take the time to dangle around on a rope for hours on end to ensure that our crags are safe and up to today’s standards.
Enjoy!
Washington Anchor Replacement Project (WARP): https://washingtonanchors.org/
Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC): https://washingtonclimbers.org/
Bolting Literature and Information:
Access Fund: https://www.accessfund.org/our-causes/replace-aging-bolts
American Safe Climbing Association: https://www.safeclimbing.org/
UIAA: https://www.theuiaa.org/documents/safety/UIAA-WARNING-ABOUT-CLIMBING-ANCHORS-FAILURES_Dec15.pdf
Chockstone: http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/SoftRockBolting.pdf
Bolt Products: http://www.bolt-products.com/
Bolting Hardware:
Kong: https://www.kong.it/en/2-products/items/c2-sport/r7-anchorage
Fixe Hardware: https://fixehardware.com/
Petzl: https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Anchors
Today’s guest is Kareemah Batts. Kareemah is an adaptive climber based in New York City with one incredible story. She was diagnosed with a rare form of cancer back in 2009 and was forced to have one of her legs amputated to save her life.
A climbing trip out to Colorado profoundly changed her life. After this moving experience, she founded the Adaptive Climbing Group and made it her mission to provide the same kind of opportunities for other adaptive climbers to experience what she did in Colorado. She tells her story so well, you can’t help but be moved by it. In the end she says it’s not about what makes us different. It’s all about highlighting what’s the same about us and what brings us all together. It’s definitely the climbing.
Enjoy!
Adaptive Climbing Group: https://www.adaptiveclimbinggroup.org/
Kareemah's Instagram: @herhopness
My guest this month was none other than Tommy Caldwell. We all know Tommy for his athletic accomplishments, but what’s becoming just as impressive is his commitment to advocacy. He has put in a tremendous amount of work not only advocating for climbing but also for climate change and wild spaces in general. His advocacy work has quickly become a large part of his identity, and he’s taking it on with just as much energy and focus as he does the Dawn Wall.
Tommy runs us through his advocacy beginnings and how they have blossomed into his current role as a Global Sport Activist for Patagonia. He says he’s no longer supposed to just go out and climb hard routes but to complement that with action to stand up for our environment.
Access Fund's Climb the Hill 2019: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/a-live-report-from-climb-the-hill
Patagonia Action Works: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/a-live-report-from-climb-the-hill
Protect Our Winters: https://protectourwinters.org/
Tommy's Instagram: @tommycaldwell
This month’s episode features two advocates from the indoor climbing world, Paul Guarino and Hilary Harris. Both Paul and Hilary are founders of their indoor facilities, Paul with Ascend Pittsburgh and Hilary with Evo Rock + Fitness gyms. In addition to their entrepreneurial spirit, Paul and Hilary sit on the boards of directors for the Southwestern Pennsylvania Climbers Coalition and Access Fund, respectively.
We run through what their motivations were for starting their gyms, their takeaways from Access Fund’s latest educational campaign, and the role of indoor facilities in relation to climbing advocacy. Both of them are moving the needle in the right direction and highlight the opportunities gyms have to educate and communicate effective messaging around this topic.
Enjoy!
Ascend Pittsburgh: https://www.ascendclimbing.com/
Evo rock gyms: https://www.evorock.com/
Southwestern Pennsylvania Climbers Coalition: http://www.swpacc.org/
Access Fund's inside education campaign: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/access-fund-challenges-indoor-climbing-gyms-with-new-insideout-education
This month’s episode features Access Fund Policy Director Erik Murdock. Erik provides some incredible insight on the top five threats facing our nation’s public lands. If you are at all interested in being brought up to speed on everything public lands, there is a ton of information in this episode.
Erik took topics that can be really complicated and distilled them down to make them very digestible. His well-rounded history working for federal land agencies, in academia, and now in the nonprofit world has set him up to be incredibly knowledgeable on all of these topics. From environmental rollbacks, national level policy changes to conservation, and access being hamstrung, we cover it all.
For the climber and nonclimber alike, this episode paints a broad brushstroke on the state of our public lands and how it affects us as climbers.
Enjoy!
Top 5 Threats to Public Lands: https://www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/top-5-threats-to-public-lands
NEPA Rule Changes: https://ceq.doe.gov/laws-regulations/regulations.html
Outdoor Alliance: https://www.outdooralliance.org/
BLM Acting Leader: https://www.outdooralliance.org/blog/2020/1/8/proponent-of-public-land-sell-offs-will-continue-to-lead-blm
This month’s episode features Aaron Mike. Based out of Tucson, Arizona, Aaron operates Pangaea Mountain Guides and is Access Fund’s native lands regional coordinator.
As a Navajo, Aaron is well-versed in the issues surrounding climbing and the sovereignty of native lands. We covered the issues associated with climbing and native interests on public and native lands, including Bears Ears, Devils Tower, Ship Rock, and Canyon Diablo.
Aaron’s soft-spoken delivery and passion for these lands is genuine and sincere. Join us as we chat about a topic that is becoming more and more prevalent in the outdoor industry as a whole.
Enjoy!
Devils Tower: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/climbers-honor-the-june-closure-at-devils-tower
Aaron's Instagram: @aaron.r.mike
Native Outdoors: https://natives-outdoors.com/
Pangaea Mountain Guides: http://pangaeamountainguides.com/
This episode features two crusher advocates coming out of the Southeast: Cody Roney and Andrea Hassler. Cody is the former executive director of the Southeastern Climbers Coalition (SCC), and her list of accolades during her time with the SCC is exemplary. Andrea has now taken the reins as SCC’s executive director. She says she has big shoes to fill but her passion and knowledge for the Southeast’s climbing resources is palpable, and she is undoubtedly the right person for the job.
Follow along as we discuss SCC success stories, including the huge Denny Cove acquisition, some of the ins and outs of running a local climbing organization, and the very bright future of the SCC.
Enjoy!
Steep South's Filling the Void: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QKytNP0fFU&t=1s
Thrive Regional Partnership: https://www.thriveregionalpartnership.org/
Southeastern Climbers Coailtion: https://www.seclimbers.org/
Facebook & Instagram- @seclimbers
This month’s episode features a powerful individual in the climbing world: founder of Flash Foxy, Shelma Jun. Shelma started Flash Foxy as a social media platform to provide a way for ladies to share their climbing stoke. It quickly evolved into something much larger, as now she hosts multiple women’s climbing festivals a year to celebrate women in climbing.
In addition to her work with Flash Foxy, Shelma holds a seat on the board with Access Fund. She has brought a diverse set of skills to the board, focusing a lot of her work on justice, diversity, equity, and inclusion (JEDI). Conversations around JEDI have become more prevalent in the outdoor industry over the past few years, and Shelma and many others are captaining the ship.
Enjoy!
Flash Foxy: https://flashfoxy.com/
Flash Foxy Instagram: @heyflashfoxy
Shelma’s Instagram: @shelmatic
JEDI Taskforce: https://www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/meet-the-jedi-advocates-behind-climb-the-hill
REI Film, Do Better Together: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0TDhBWywpf0&t=35s
Arc’teryx Film, Duality: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5ngyRDE6Z0&t=8s
Avarna Group: https://theavarnagroup.com/
Diversify Outdoors: https://www.diversifyoutdoors.com/
For this episode, we highlighted the latest happenings in the Northeast. My guests were Seth Maciejowski with CRAG-VT and Mike Morin with Access Fund. They have done an incredible amount of work for New England climbers and continue to do so on a number of stewardship and acquisition projects.
We covered CRAG-VT’s approach to conservation and Seth’s impressive résumé of successful acquisitions during his time spent with CRAG-VT. Mike ran through various projects he is currently managing in Massachusetts, New York, and Maine and the huge undertaking of improving access at Rumney. Both of these guys hail from the Northeast, so it’s only fitting that they are leading the charge in this region.
Enjoy!
CRAG-VT Instagram: @crag_vt
CRAG-VT Facebook: @cragvt
Ground Up video: https://vimeo.com/145324762
Restore Rumney: https://www.accessfund.org/take-action/campaigns/ongoing-campaigns/restore-rumney
My guest today is Brian Tickle, Access Fund’s Texas regional director. The Texas Legislature was entering their session in January when I first had Brian on, and now that the session has ended we wanted to chat again about the outcomes. Brian and Access Fund had their plates full working on influencing policy surrounding funding for state parks and Texas’s recreational use statute. Brian’s work has since expanded from when we first chatted, and now his scope includes Arkansas and Oklahoma.
Enjoy!
Funding for state parks: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/access-fund-lobbies-for-increased-funding-for-texas-state-parks
Texas Landowner Liability: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/texas-adds-rock-climbing-liability-protections-for-landowners
My guest for this episode is Ashlee Milanich, the executive director of the Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition (RRGCC) based in Lexington, Kentucky. Ashlee has spent the majority of her time climbing in the Red and knows the place inside and out.
We covered some of the historical events and issues that climbers and the RRGCC have dealt with in the past, along with some of the ins and outs of working with a number of different landowners. With the increasing popularity over the years, the Red has experienced severe impacts from climber traffic. The RRGCC hosts several large stewardship events over the course of the year to help remedy these issues, and Ashlee highly encourages people to attend and get involved. Ashlee and the RRGCC have a lot on their plate to ensure this world-class resource stays in good shape for years to come. But they know what to do and how to do it.
Enjoy!
Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition: http://rrgcc.org/
Facebook: @rrgcc
Instagram: @rrgcc
10 Climbing Areas in Crisis: https://www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/10-climbing-areas-in-crisis
Sora Aerial Arts: https://www.soraaerialarts.com/
The guests for this month’s episode came from the Midwest Climbing Advocacy Summit, held this year at Devil’s Lake State Park in Wisconsin. Jenna Winkler and Zachary Lesch-Huie from Access Fund facilitated conversations with local advocates from across the Midwest, learning more about what is happening with them on a local level. These conversations highlighted the issues that are ubiquitous across the climbing community and really drove home the point that those who make up the climbing community can learn from each other on how to manage and remedy the problems that they are facing.
This regional summit boasted a number of different workshops and sessions throughout the event, as Jenna and Zachary highlighted during the episode. These sessions are examples of what you can expect at one of Access Fund’s annual summits. There is a ton to be learned from attending one of these events, so be sure to check out the next one!
Arkansas Climbers Coalition: https://www.arkansasclimbers.org/
AdventurHER Travel: https://www.adventurhertravel.com/our-story
Minnesota Climbers Association: https://www.mnclimbers.org/
Wisconsin Climbers Association: https://wiclimbers.com/
This is the second part of the conversation with Access Fund Senior Policy Advisor Jason Keith. In part one, we discussed the recent success of the passing of the Emery County Public Land Management Act. This act was part of the huge public lands package that the president signed into law early last month. That discussion naturally led us into discussing the long-contentious topic of bolting in wilderness.
We rounded out our conversation discussing the current affairs surrounding Bears Ears National Monument. Jason brings up some provoking thoughts about how things have changed dramatically over the years and what that means for future management of the area. Jason also reminds us that although Indian Creek is naturally put under the microscope here, there are several other world-class climbing areas nearby that cannot be ignored either. These incredible climbing resources in southeastern Utah depend on current and future climbers being responsible advocates and having awareness of their impact.
Enjoy the conclusion of my conversation with Jason Keith!
This episode’s guest was Access Fund Senior Policy Advisor Jason Keith. Based in Moab, Utah, Jason wears multiple hats in his line of work. He runs a small nonprofit called Public Land Solutions. They work to maximize recreation assets within local communities by supporting effective public land solutions (hence the name). He also is a professional advocate for the national climbing community as Access Fund’s policy director. Jason spends a lot of his time working with political figures to influence policies that impact climbing resources.
Jason’s knowledge and passion for climbing advocacy is obvious, and he had so much to say that the episode had to be broken up into two parts. In part 1 of the episode, we focused on the Emery County Public Land Management Act, which was a big part of the public lands package and bolting in wilderness. We finished the episode discussing the current affairs surrounding Bears Ears National Monument, which will be released as part two next week.
Enjoy the first part of my conversation with Jason Keith!
Public Lands Solutions: https://publiclandsolutions.org/
Outdoor Alliance: https://www.outdooralliance.org/
News on the public lands package: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/president-signs-public-lands-bill-wilderness-climbing-protections-written-into-law
This month’s guest was Laura Boggess, a professor, scientist, and yoga instructor based in Mars Hill, North Carolina. We discussed the importance and aesthetic of lichen at our cliffs. She doesn’t claim to be a lichen expert, but she is obviously very qualified and her passion for lichen is palpable.
So how does climbing fit in? As cliff dwellers, climbers are often interacting with lichen at close proximity, which can pose challenges. As Laura explains, climbers have the opportunity to be good stewards while out climbing and to work with land managers to minimize their impacts on lichen communities while at the cliff.
Not only does lichen play an integral role in the greater ecosystem, but it is also beautiful to look at! Laura encourages climbers to be more observant the next time they’re out at the crag.
Enjoy!
Cliff Ecology book: https://books.google.com/books/about/Cliff_Ecology.html?id=ZWjFU9ZiuIoC
Climbing & Raptors: https://www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/its-nesting-season-give-raptors-space
This episode features a conversation with Access Fund Texas Regional Director Brian Tickle and Texas Climbers Coalition President Adam Mitchell. We discussed all things Texas and confirmed that there is much more climbing than just Hueco Tanks. These guys have a lot going on down south and have for a long time. The recent acquisition of the Medicine Wall outside San Antonio is just one example of the great climbing in Texas. They are working hard to continue the fight for climbing in Texas and have some big plans for the coming years.
Enjoy!
Access Fund Texas: https://www.accessfund.org/pages/access-fund-texas
Texas Climbers Coalition (TCC): https://www.texasclimberscoalition.org/
TCC Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/texasclimberscoalition/
TCC Instagram: @tccrocks
ICELab @ Western- https://icelab.co/
Western Colorado University: https://western.edu/
This episode is a conversation with Access Fund Stewardship Director Ty Tyler about the program he oversees. We chat about the growth of the stewardship program and the traveling conservation teams, tips for building trusting relationships with land managers, and recent success stories.
Enjoy!
For this episode, I interviewed Joe Sambataro, Access Fund’s national access director and Northwest regional director, and Andy Fitz, with the Washington Climbers Coalition, to discuss stewardship success stories in the state of Washington.
Enjoy!
Our pilot episode features a short discussion with Patagonia athletes, as well as other advocates working with local climbing organizations around the country, about what it means to be a climbing advocate.
Enjoy!