that Neil Morrans thing: Recent Episodes

Neil Morrans

Neil Morrans discusses and shares stories, insights and thoughts from his adventures by bicycle and on foot.

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21.57 km.

The last day of walking and the end of the Via de la Plata adventure.  The final day of walking has already been forgotten, but the few minutes after our arrival at the Cathedral will stay with Neil for a very long time.

Neil walked 1,172 km/728 miles and now believes that the Via de la Plata stands head and shoulders above any other Camino.  But he would say that...

He is now resting in Santiago and finds life in the pilgrim town very much to his liking.

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Neil and his amigos start the day off feeling like the end is very much in sight.  However, there's still time for last-minute changes to the schedule and adding some kilometres to the originally agreed distance.

The walking was okay, but Neil believes the best of the Way was passed under cover of darkness.  But never mind tomorrow, the Via de la Plata adventure will be completed, and there will be celebrating to be focused on.

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36.51 km
Neil and his amigos are closing in on Santiago, but today it was just a question of getting to today's finish hamlet of A Laxe.  An oddly tough and taxing day.  

At the time of recording, Neil thought that the march of the Clean Shoes from Ourense would not be seen on the Camino Sanabres/Via de Plata.  Listen to the next episode tomorrow to find out if the Clean Shoes make an apperance.

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25.37 km.

A very dull transition stage that marks the beginning of the end for the Via de la Plata.  The way was pleasant enough without setting the pulse racing.

The decision on days left to walk remains unresolved but finishing on the 9th looks most likely for now.

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34.31 + km 
This was a very long day which should have ended in Xunqueira de Ambia, but things did not quite to plan for Neil.

If asked what the highlight of the day was, Neil would say that it was meeting the hard-working ladies of Galicia who toil away day after day doing all the manual work on the farm.

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19.20 km.

A very short walk of with little to look at or take too much interest in.  However, the big news was that the band was back together as an old friend returned to Spain and the Camino

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28.61 km

Another enjoyable day of walking but with little to really discuss or pass on.  

There was, however, a lot of climbing and a lot of passing through tunnels and endless views of a flyover from a great many different angels.

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35.07 km

By any measure, this was a tough day.  While the distance was not insignificant, it was the monotany of the terrain that tested Neil's resolve.  On a stage that was said to be mostly downhill, the feeling was that the entire stage was uphill.  The only significant downhill section was incredibly hard and freyed the nerves a little.

With just one cafe bar along the way, it was one of the more testing stages of the Camino.

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24.32 km
This was a very long day for Neil and his amigos.  While the distance was not on paper too much to worry about, someone forgot to look at the terrain.  

Thinking it was a short day, the pilgrims took a long leisurely breakfast and then a very leisurely coffee break mid-way through the day.  In consequence, finding out the route was all tough tracks over a mountain caught everyone out.  Thus, the pilgrims squandered a short day and made it into a very long day.

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34.48 km.

Another glorious day of walking with amazing views, deer watching opportunites (no photos|) and some great trails.  With the albergue closed, Neil and his amigos were forced to stay in a hotel for the night.   A no star hotel that is.

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  1. 31 km
    A very long day, but the best day of walking so far, if you discount the drizzle and rain.  As well as spendid walking we also scored lucky with our lunch and ate the best pilgrim menu of the trip.  Yes, the albergue could have been better, but you can't have everything.

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22.93 km
Apart from passing through kilometre afer kilometre of burnt trees there really wasn't much to pass comment on.

It is clear though that the summer fires in the west of spain were significant and came close to a good many villages.

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Neil might have shin splints or tendinitis, but today was, from a walking perspective, one of the best yet.  
There was charming landscapes, sun and changing paths at regular intervals.  There was some tricky climbs to get up and down, but it was a lovely day.

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A day that could spell difficulties ahead.

After a communal breakfast, Neil and his amigos set off closer to eight than seven.  Soon after leaving, a stop at a cafe bar for provisions resulted in Neil leaving behind his hat.  He wasn't keen to retrace his steps, mostly because of a pain in his calf/shin.

By the end of the six hour day and 32 km of walking , Neil has quite a painful left shin and needs to rest up if he is to make tomorow's 30 km stage to Tabara.

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What should have been an easy, but long walk got off to a poor start with Neil getting lost quite early on and then racing to catch up with his amigos without realising he was actually ahead of them.

The walk was 38 km, but it was easy enough in the firs thalf but the second half but exhaustion meant that the second was a little more taxing than expected.

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Another long-ish day 32km, but it was easy going from start to finish.  The views at times were outstanding.  A coffee mid day was also an unepected bonus.

Not knowing anything about Zamora it was a treat to find that the city has much to see and is well worth spending a few day in.  Sadly, this was not an option for Neil and his amigos.

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Four hours of walking and Neil and his amigos make it to the half way point and Salamanca.

Staying two nights in the city means that the pilgrims have a day off and will spend Friday as turists.

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A short day but will a little lack of focus which somewhat slowed things down.  But on the upside, the day also included a cafe closed on Tuesdays which was opened for us when the son of the owner saw us sitting in the terrace area eating our own food and drinks.

There was also a village goat which did as it pleased and you just had to put up with it.  Spiritualist healing was conducted on one of Neil's amigos.  We're still waiting to hear if it was a successful healing or not.

As we were staying as guests of a priest, we also got a private look around the village church and learned that the priest was something of an eccentric.

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Neil and his amigos make hard work of another short day, but have a stroke of good fortune meant that they got coffee and cake at the midway point of the walk.

Neil muses about the advantages of being able to speak Spanish and advises that by speaking Spanish the Camino experience is greatly enhanced.

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Neil and his amigos start the day late, dilly, dither and doudle and make heavy weather of a short walk of 23km.   

Along the way they leave Extremadura and enter Castilla y Leon and find them staying in a little village/town seemingly run and organised by just one woman.

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After leaving last night's fiesta early to get a good night's sleep in advance of the long walk ahead, Neil is delighted to find that at 6.30 am, the fiesta is still in full swing.

The walk was long, tiring and made more challenging after Neil runs out of water with 10k still to walk.

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Neil discovers that there is a price to pay for having a lunch and leaving yourself 10km to walk to the finish line.  
Starting out a 6.15, Neil and his amigos planned to eat lunch to avoid having to scratch around the town later to find something to eat.  Lunch was okay, but when you're still walking at 5pm you do wonder if you got your strategy right.  
Without knowing it at the time, having lunch was a grand idea.  Carcaboso was in fiesta mode and not a single shop or restaurant was open.

Sadly, four became three and the pilgrims had to say adios to one of their band.

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Neil discovers that it's better to walk for an hour in the dark rather than walk in the sun after 2pm in the afternoon.  

While the views were stunning throughout the day,  Neil also finds out that running out of water with 10k isn't any fun and can rob you of your energy and stamia.

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The shortest day of walking to date and likely the shortest day of the Camino.   From a podcast perspective, there was no jeopardy or mounting tension about will Neil make it to the next town.  However, it was interesting to see the rhythm of life in rural Spain.

The albergue could have been better that's for sure.

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After a night in a monastery, a long walk to Caceres will take up much of the day.
The day includes sun, rain and more sun, but the highlight and the thing that kept the pilgrims going, was knowing that they would be staying in an apartment at the end of the day.

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This was a very long hot day where the threat of rain was ever present.  Having spread out along the Way, at one point or another, each of this band of pilgrims took a wrong turn.  However, Neil took the wrongest of wrong turns and was last to present at the grand old monastery

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A very short day of walking and before he knew it, Neil was walking into Merida.  Plans to see the town and its Roman history were undermined by the need to find a new pair of walking shoes.
It's a pretty town and I wish I'd seen more of than just its shoe shops and cafes.

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Over breakfast it was agreed that the day, thought short-ish would feel long, hot, boring and likely tiring too.
As it turns out walking for kilometres after kilometre is indeed not as much fun as you'd think.
But by close of play the group of two was back to a group of four with one just one stop behind.  

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Neil starts out firm in his determination to only walk to Zafra which would mean walking just 17 kilometres.  However, on arriving into Zafra, he finds that it’s still very early and moving onto the next town or even to an albergue another 15 kilometres away might be doable.

To say the day doesn’t go well is to understate things.  After leaving Zafra, Neil had a spring in his step.  Had he but known what lay ahead, he’d have been well advised to stay put.

After being refused a bed in hostel that the owner said was closed, Neil had to walk onto Villafranca de los Barros.  It turns out the hostel owner seemingly took against Neil as he offered beds to other walking and a pilgrim in Neil’s group.  Sadly, that was not the end of it and when reunited with Charles they could not find any pilgrim accommodation and had to book a hotel.  Soon after checking in, after a room was scared up, the evening went very agreeable in a local restaurant.

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Neil has a very long and tiring day on the Via de la Plata and finds that getting lost in the first five kilomentres takes its toll at the end of the day.
Other than getting lost and adding what ended up being four kilometres to the day, the group of pilgrims started a little late,  stayed too long in two cafes and found that walking after 4pm is a very tough ask indeed.  

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Neil finds out that not every day can be full of fun and frollicks and has a very dull day of walking.  

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On what is the offical starting point for the Via de la Plata, Neil finds he has something of a curates egg of a day.
He also learns some valuable lessions. 

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Neil's day gets to a rather poor start  when he finds that he cannot get out of his hotel.  When he does start walking, it was more than two hours after he had planned.

He was not looking forward to the day fearing he would be walking on major roads.  As it turned out the first have of his walk was very agreeable.  The final 10 km were a little more of a struggle as he followed a main road into the centre of the city.  It was hot, busy and a littl draining really.  However, Neil arrives into Seville and discovers he had booked himself into a very nice hotel which likely doesn't get many pilgrims.  Best of all he finally has a man sized bath.

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Neil has another long but uneventful day of walking.  He finds that there was not much to look at, but discovered that the farmers choice of crop in these parts is cotton.  

It was another day without much in the way shade, but he did manage to find a café bar with eight kilometres from the finish.  

There was some disappoint however, as Neil finds that he is a very long way of the Augustus route and will need to walk 15 kilometres sideways to get back on course.  At the time of recording, Neil is minded to just walk the 28 km to Seville tomorrow.  This will require him to walk again on some country roads and only the odd track.

Either way, tomorrow he’ll be in Seville by the end of the day and has two days of holidaying to look forward to.  Although Neil does need to fix some issue with he recording equipment or abandon his plans to record his walk.

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It was a long day of walking for Neil today.  However, the 30 km/18 miles were not really the issue.  Neil's biggest obstacles today were the heat, complete lack of shade and nowhere to sit down.  Hard to believe, but it's true.  Neil was forced to eat his cobbled together lunch sitting adjacent to a field.  
 Neil knew he'd not be getting a coffee before the end of his walk, but he really didn't enjoy being on his feet for five hours with a rucksack on his back.  
 By its end, Neil was very glad it was all behind him.  Sadly, there's more of the same tomorrow.


Please note:  A recording technical issue compromises some parts of this recording.  You're advised not to listen with headphones.

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An odd sort of day where Neil finds out that it's best not to start a day of walking without having breakfast.  
What was supposed to be a very short say rather got away from Neil and he found himself walking close to 18 km.   
Neil did manage to find another odd Spanish hotel which included a room with two internal facing windows which allowed other guests to look and watch Neil taking his bath.  

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A short entry for my first day of walking.  It was nice to get going and to have an enjoyable start to what will be a very long Spanish stroll.
The day passed without incident and thanks to needed the services of a taxi at the start of the day, it was a little shorter than planned.  That said, I still clocked up 18 km and three hours of walking.  
As first days go, it was all a pilgrim could ask for.

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Welcome to Postcards from the Via de la Plata.  The aim is provide daily (regular ) updates from my walk from Cadiz in the South of Spain to Santiago de Compostela in the North.

In the epidose, it's more about setting things out and explaining that what lies ahead is about 1,100 km of walking.    Fingers crossed there'll be time and wifi to keep the updates as regular as possible, but I plan to record something everyday and upload as and when I can.

I should also add that I won't be doing much/any editing as my focus will be on the walking, eating and sleeping over the coming 40 odd days.  Anyway, I hope you find my musing enjoyable and stay tuned to find out how I get on the Silver Way.

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Neil is woken up by the Clean Shoes before 4 am and tries to understand why they are obsessed with beginning their walking more than two hours before the sun comes up.  It was never really explained to him.

Neil is delighted to catch up with the Belgian ex-tank commander and finds out, that today at least, Jesus Loves You.

Once in Arzúa falls into an upmarket Camino shop, spends a fortune and puts his faith in the shop owner who promises to send his purchases back to the UK. 

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After just two hours of walking, Neil's Camino de Santiago is over.  He finds himself overcome on the Hill of Joy/Monte do Gozo and then strangely without emotion when he gets to the famous cathedral in Santiago.

On finishing, Neil visits the Pilgrim's Office to get his pilgrim certificate and promises himself that, even if he returns to Spain, he won't be returning to the Pilgrim's Office, where you really are just a number.

With it all behind him, Neil celebrates completing his Camino with his two favourite pilgrims; Agnieszka and Piotrek.  But what next, that's the big question...

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The day was another one where not much of interest presenting itself.  Indeed, the day is mostly memorable for breakfast without Patrick (the ex-tank commander), lunch with Patrick and dinner with Michael.

If anyone ever suggests that you might want to visit Lavacolla, Neil would ask that you politely decline.  However, if you want to meet the worst restauranteurs in Spain, it might be worth a visit.  

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Neil has an oddly odd day that started out, for no apparent reason, with a foolishly early start that meant walking through a dense forest in the pitch black.

The day was mostly forgettable but once the sun came up, Neil was presented with a view that he considers the most memorable of his trip.

He arrives early at his hostel and meets a genuine Jekyll and Hyde.  The hostel had the most amazing bunk beds, but the evening is mostly about the Clean Shoes who Neil finds as annoying as he does amusing. 

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Neil manages to get lost twice in one day.  The first time when he went a good couple of kilometres up a very steep mountain and then again when his map reading skills desert him 10 kilometres away from the day's finish line.

While Neil will remember these cockups, he'll mostly remember the day because of his visit to the monastery in Samos, its amazing murals and his meeting with a monk. 

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Neil manages to get lost twice in one day.  The first time when he went a good couple of kilometres up a very steep mountain and then again when his map reading skills desert him 10 kilometres away from the day's finish line.

While Neil will remember these cockups, he'll mostly remember the day because of his visit to the monastery in Samos, its amazing murals and his meeting with a monk. 

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Neil starts his day annoying a waitress with a request for a table for one.   After his breakfast, he faces a short day of mostly downhill walking into Triacastela.  Along the way, he catches up with a favourite Spanish pilgrim but doesn't realise it was their last meeting on the Camino.  Sometimes it's hard to not say goodbye.
An early finish and long lunch leave Neil well past squiffy and in need of an afternoon nap. 

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Neil finally gets to O'Cebreiro where legend has it, miracles happen.  His day starts, however, with an amusing catch up with two Italians. who despite his lack of time with, Neil likes very much.
Neil also meets an old friend he didn't know he had, in the guise of a Belgium ex-tank commander.  However, the day was really all about the climb and the last eight kilometres climb up to the famous pilgrim hamlet.  

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Neil starts the day in a bad mood but cheers up when Martin joins him for breakfast.  This takes a dark turn when he accidentally upsets a local team of grape pickers and finds himself escorted off the 'plantation'.

His day picks up, however, and he enjoys another day of solo walking to Villafranca where he finds the energy and strength to make it into the Church of Santiago Villafranca. 

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Neil takes an early breakfast but delays his start again.  Is there a pattern developing here.  He finds pleasure in walking with his two Amigos but doesn't realise the end is in sight.  
He books into an albergue that doesn't serve hot drinks and has to venture into the night to find a coffee seller.  What he actually finds is Spain's most eccentric man. 

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Neil sets off into the dark and is ambushed by a kitten and gets a reminder of where food comes from.  He meets a German who claims to sell the best coffee on the Camino but doesn't actually offer Neil any.  
He arrives in Astorga in a dark mood but leaves with a spring in his step. 
At Rabanal, he squeezes into the world's smallest bathtub, attends the 7 pm Vespers and enjoys an evening meal with the world's largest slice of cake. 

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Neil's day is all about saying adios, au revoir and cheerio.  It's actually a say day, but as Peter told him, sometimes it's best to accept that not everyone you meet, like or have an affection for, are part of your future.  You just have to accept that letting go is often the best thing. 

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Neil finds himself walking three days in one, saying goodbye to the past and stumbles across the Netherlands most eccentric export.
He introduces a German to a crisp sandwich.  Importantly, he manages to fall asleep and manage not to see any of the great Pilgrim town.

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If it wasn't for the goats, this was a day to forget.  Neil also reflects that his dreams of staying at the Parador de León remain unrealised.  
The day is also his first walking without seeing another pilgrim, and finds that he's is again, the only pilgrim in town.  At least he's happy with his own company.  

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Today Neil hosts a pilgrim breakfast and discovers how it's possible to be the happiest man in the world.
On the downside, Neil is feeling the pain of not having access to books and wonders about the merits of a Kindel. Who'd have thought...

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Neil begins his third week in a very positive mood.  Today he gets close and personal with wild deer and narrowly avoids a diplomatic incident trying to celebrate a fellow pilgrim's birthday.
He makes it to the official halfway point, and while he understands, some stages of the Camino are a bit grim, he remains fully committed to walking every step of the way.

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Neil starts his second week full of confidence, after finding an open post office and getting things posted back to the UK.  Along the way, he makes new friends and learns that interactions with other pilgrims are an important part of the Camino experience.
He finds a swimming pool and faces his worst fear by spending the night with a man with a guitar and finds himself singing hits from the European hit parade.  
He asserts himself in a cafe and despite Spain's reputation for fine food, finds that some restaurants serve food that is as poor as anything he's had in the UK.  

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Neil ends his second week on the Camino enjoying life in the slow lane.  He walks very slowly, eats some terrible food and finally realises that he is old.  It all added up to a very enjoyable day.

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Neil finds it's not all plain sailing when you leave before the sun comes up, but find great pleasure in going up the ups and going down the downs.  He also succumbs to the wine.  What this means for the future is not known.

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After a day's rest, Neil is sporting his new t-shirt and heading to the swimming pool at Hontanas.  

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Neil has a lightness in his step as he's heading to Burgos, made famous by El Cid, but more importantly, for Neil, it is where he will be taking his first day of rest.

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Neil finds himself in bandit country and walking with no waymarkers.  Worse still, he has to confront his greatest fear of being stuck with a wanker with guitar and a night of singing.  

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Neil continues ever westward, and today it's about making new friends and catching up with 'old'.  Neil is forced to recognise that people might be important when you are walking the Camino.  But not as important as breakfast!

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Neil begins week two of this Camino is high spirits.  Will a trip to the post ruin his day?

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After the Covid-pandemic crushed his plans to cycle around the world, in August of 2020, Neil found himself walking the Camino de Santiago.  The Camino de Santiago, known in English as the Way of St. James, is a network of pilgrims' ways or pilgrimages leading to the shine of the apostle Saint James the Great in the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwestern Spain.
Starting in the little town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, on the French side of the Pyrenees, the Camino Francés is the most popular of the pilgrim ways.  Most Spanish people consider St. Jean as the natural starting point of the Camino.  Thus, it was on the morning of 10 August left the little pilgrim town facing a walk of 799 kilometres to Santiago de Compostela.
In this first omnibus episode, you can hear how Neil found himself on the Camino and how his first week went.

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Today, marked the end of Neil's first week on the Camino.  He is having a great time and almost forgotten he should have been cycling around the world.
Not that he knew it, but today, Neil also meets some people who will be a big part of his Camino.

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Seemingly with no ill effects from yesterday's very long, and stressful day, Neil is surprisingly upbeat and looking forward to his day.

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Seemingly with no ill effects from yesterday's very long, and stressful day, Neil is surprisingly upbeat and looking forward to his day.

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Neil was told it was not necessary to book a hostel in advance.  So, Neil left Pamplona for  Puente la Reina without knowing where he was going to lay his head.  Little did he know it would be a walk of 34 miles before he found out.

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Having had a very interrupted night's sleep, Neil was heading off early for Pamplona.  The doesn't quite go to plan.

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Day two, and Neil is worried about the coffee, but finding his rhythm, 

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Join Neil as he starts his Camino de Santiago with the walk from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles.

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With his plans to cycle around the world in tatters, Neil finds himself in France facing a walk of 788 miles to Santiago de Compostela.

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On the Road to GoingDutch today, the focus is on the fears, many and various preventing or at least putting people off long-term solo adventures. 

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Today on the Road to GoingDutch with little or no preparation, I discuss what makes GoingDutch Around the World different from a conventional cycle tour. 

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On the Road to GoingDutch today, while it may have been an agreeable day today, I thought I'd set out some ideas of how best you can get through with winter with a bicycle. 

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On the Road to GoingDutch today I confirm that I’ve finally finished my kit list and put a cost to it.  I also talk about the cycle touring podcasts that I’ve been listening to over the last few months. 

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On this last episode of the Road to GoingDutch for October, I’m mostly rambling, again, about kit and equipment, storytelling, plans for November and Patreon. 

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Today, on the Road to GoingDutch the discussion or rather moaning is all about the problems of producing merchandise and thrills of navigating a way through the visa options for visiting North America. 

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Today, on the Road to GoingDutch while sheltering from the rain, I discuss the process of leaving it all behind and what it does to an individual who faces the daily uncertainty of independent travel. 

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Today, on the Road to GoingDutch I discuss how I ended up such a fan of everyday cycling. 

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Today, I’m literally on the Road to GoingDutch answering some questions that have been asked about GoingDutch…
Hopefully by the end of the episode, you’ll have a greater understanding of GoingDutch… and GoingDutch Around North America

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Today, on the Road to GoingDutch I discuss some of the difficulties and challenges of recording a road trip.

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Today, in this slightly longer episode of the Road to GoingDutch, I speak at length about budgeting and global adventures.  I share some thoughts on the budgets shared by other travellers and set out the principles on which the GoingDutch Around the World budget was produced. 

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Today, on the Road to GoingDutch, I introduce Patreon; the creator-founded company, helping creators build membership businesses that empower them to create on their own terms.  Additionally I explain why I am using it for sharing the GoingDutch Around the World story.

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Today, on the Road to GoingDutch, I speak about choosing the Gazelle Marco Polo, give an overview of my kit and equipment choices and discuss a little bit about being in spired and admit my inspiration comes not from adventurers, but from another, less obvious source. 

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To raise awareness of GoingDutch Around the World, I am producing a pilot series; the Road to GoingDutch, which will be available subscription-free and have its focus on my ‘to do’ list and the tasks to be completed to make sure that I will be ready to travel to San Diego on Monday, 6 January when GoingDutch Around the World will formally launch. 

In this episode, I speak a little about Dutch cycling, my experiences of cycling in the Netherlands and my belief that sports-based marketing of cycling in the UK has been harmful to the development of a genuine cycling culture.

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To raise awareness of GoingDutch Around the World, I am producing a pilot series; the Road to GoingDutch, which will be available subscription-free and have its focus on my ‘to do’ list and the tasks to be completed to make sure that I will be ready to travel to San Diego on Monday, 6 January when GoingDutch Around the World will formally launch.

In this episode, I'll explain what the Road to GoingDutch... is and what you can expect between now and the last episode, scheduled for 31 December. 

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Join me for a ride to and from the town of Meppel.  On which I comment on Dutch cycle paths, infrastructure and explain a little more about GoingDutch Around the World.

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A very short update on life with a non-functioning Garmin Edge Computer.

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After an evening crossing from Harwich, I arrived at the Hook of Holland on a wet and windy Friday morning.
I had envisaged a grand arrival on a cold but pleasant morning.  However, it was not to be.  I was welcomed instead by strong winds and pouring rain.
By any measure, it was a dispiriting start to a grand adventure.

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In advance of leaving the UK on the GoingDutch Around the World project, I've been testing different bits of kit and equipment.
Last week I took the Zoom H4n Pro (with remote control) and the Rode Lavalier Microphone Kit with wind muffler out for a ride.
Check out the results and see what you think. 

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