Sake Industry News: Recent Episodes
Sake Industry News
Sake Industry News is a twice-monthly newsletter covering news from within the sake industry in Japan.
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Welcome to Issue #121 of SIN.
This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit sakeindustrynews.substack.com/subscribe
Well, here we are. World Sake Day 2022!
It's certainly shaping up to be a better one than the last couple of years with events around the world going ahead and even brewers managing to get out to mingle with the drinkers that keep these breweries going for the day. Of course World Sake Day (or Nihonshu no Hi as it's known locally) is a day that (loosely) recognizes the beginning of the new brewing season. Many breweries have actually already begun brewing or at least started preparation, some never stopped brewing, and others will wait a little longer before jumping back into action.
For us, it's a day to recognize the efforts of the brewers and all that help to bring this wonderful beverage to all of us around the world.
The Japanese borders look set to open to individual travelers, finally allowing all those that have been patiently waiting back into the country. This could bring with it an increase in coverage, interest and even sales of sake, so fingers crossed it's the beginning of good things for the industry.
And now here's the news...
It Must Be Awards Season
A quick roundup of what’s been happening in the sake awards circle.
Hong Kong- Last issue we reported on the award announcements for the first Oriental Sake Awards, held in Hong Kong, but on September 15, the overall champion awards were announced with at least one big surprise.
Top honors for Sake of the Year award went to Taiun Yamahai Junmai Ginjō, made by TAIUN Sake Brewing LLC, from Shimane Prefecture. Taiun Sake Brewing LLC is run by Taiwanese brewer, Wei Jen Chen. Chen spent a number of years working at several breweries in western Japan before he began brewing his own sake for export under one of the licenses issued by the government allowing new enterprises to brew sake for export purposes only.
USA- The results of the US National Sake Appraisal were announced this month.
Judges awarded 157 gold medals and 148 silver medals from 576 labels submitted by 165 breweries. Sake that scored highest were awarded Grand Prix and Runner-up Grand Prix honors.
This year's Grand Prix winners were:
Daiginjō A- Hatsukame Junmai Daiginjō Tojo Yamadanishiki Tajiri Nouensaku (Hatsukame Jōzō, Shizuoka Prefecture)
Daiginjō B- Atago no Matsu Onogawa Junmai Daiginjō (Niizawa Jōzōten, Miyagi Prefecture)
Ginjō- Dewazakura Omachi (Dewazakura Shuzō, Yamagata Prefecture)
Junmai- Zaku Hono Tomo (Shimizu Seizaburo Shōten, Mie Prefecture)
Full results can be found here.
Australia- The first sake competition held "down-under" took place on September 17.
Judges from various sake and hospitality related backgrounds judged nearly 200 submitted sake in eight categories to determine sake most suited to the Australian palate and lifestyle.
Sake was evaluated in the following categories:
- Junmai 2. Junmai Ginjō 3. Junmai Daiginjō 4. Ginjō/Daiginjō 5. Nama & Nama Genshu 6. Honjōzō & Futsūshu 7. Sparkling 8. Aged
The winners are expected to be announced on October 1 (today!)
JG: My take on these competitions remains the same: they are all good because they all raise the awareness of sake. And in that sense, the more the merrier. I mean, folks in Hong Kong are far more interested in the results of locally held competitions than those in the US, Europe, or Australia, and vice versa. But at the same time, if completely different sake are winning in each such competition, people may begin to question methods and whether or not results are useful. But in the final analysis, I continue to be in support of them.
初亀 純米大吟醸 東条山田錦 田尻農園作 （初亀醸造）女川 あたごのまつ 純米大吟醸 （新澤醸造店）出羽桜 雄町 （出羽桜酒造）作 穂乃智 （清水清三郎商店）
October 1 is Sake Day - so we are making this issue of Sake Industry News free for everyone. Sake Industry News is a reader-supported publication and it wouldn’t happen without our subscribers. If you are already a paid subscriber we sincerely thank you. If you are thinking of subscribing and supporting our work, please use the link below for a free one month (2 issue) trial.
Sake Revival In Miyazaki
Miyazaki- A community project in conjunction with Miyazaki University is aiming to revive lost sake from the town of Misato in Miyazaki Prefecture in hopes of attracting attention to the region and revitalizing the local economy.
Isuzu Bijin was produced in Misato from the 1920s until the 1960s when brewing in the area ceased. Now, project members have used cotton swabs to collect more than 100 samples of possible yeast extracts from old barrels, as well as pillars and walls in the brewery in an attempt to capture some of the DNA of the lost brew.
Researchers will spend the next month trying to cultivate yeast suitable for sake brewing. Once the yeast has been selected, local brewery Sentoku Shuzō will begin brewing test batches.
The group is also planning on using rice varieties that were popular in the region during the period when Isuzu Bijin was produced.
It is hoped the sake will be available within three years. Any sake-related attention for Miyazaki Prefecture, a region home to just two sake breweries is surely a boon.
Source - NHK
JG: I love to see sake breweries being revived. Kudos to Sentoku Shuzo, one of the two remaining sakagura in Miyazaki, for moving forward with this. Especially for a prefecture tied for the lowest number of sake breweries, it seems quite significant and worth supporting.
千徳酒造 , いすゞ美人（甲斐酒造）
Sommeliers, Your Days Are Numbered (not yet, just kidding)
Tokyo- Artificial intelligence may start putting sommeliers out of a job.
A new system, KAORIUM for Sake, is described as revolutionary technology that verbalizes the flavors of sake, making sake more accessible for young people who are just beginning to experience sake.
KAORIUM for Sake contains sake descriptions made up of data from more than 10,000 users including industry experts.
Sake flavors are often subjective and vague, however KAORIUM for Sake is designed to convey taste and aroma with simple concrete descriptions to better explain the profile of a given sake to all drinkers from novices to aficionados.
Users can choose words to describe the aroma of fruits like pineapples or white grapes. Alternatively, one can choose more abstract images such as slight and viscous - even dining or drinking scenarios can be entered to offer suggestions.
A number of restaurants across Japan have begun utilizing the system to help customers better choose their sake. Time will tell if such technology becomes the norm.
Source - Syokuraku
JG: Tech is great, but I think that human intuition is irreplaceable in life, and that includes sake tasting life. ‘Nuff said.
Can It, Saitama!
Saitama- Food-tech venture group AgNavi is continuing its push to get more sake into cans, most recently working together with the Saitama Sake Brewers Association to create a set of some of the local brews.
AgNavi founder, Seishū Gen (cool name) has been a vocal proponent of canned sake, believing the environmental benefits, reduced weight, and added protection from UV light make cans an ideal packaging for sake. In recent years the group launched the Ichi-Go-Can service where breweries can outsource the filling, canning and even branding of their sake, which can help reduce costs for breweries.
In an effort to promote the initiative, AgNavi reached out to the Saitama Sake Brewers Association. Twenty-four breweries accepted the invite to create a set of canned Saitama sake, which were funded through crowdfunding
The number of sake packaged in aluminium cans is growing. The ease of handling makes shipping much easier than traditional bottles.
Source - Nikkei
JG: I have mixed feelings about this. I do think that cans are an inevitable development in the sake industry, and the smaller package size and lower price allows consumers to sample and compare more - and that can only lead to increased appreciation and enjoyment. So that is good. Yet, I still prefer a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy, or a can. But in the end, cans are good, and I plan to score a set of Saitama sake in cans!
松岡酒造 , 帝松 , 石井酒造 豊明
Industry Stirrings...
Nagano- Adding to the ever-growing list of ingenious ways and locations to mature sake, three breweries have been producing sake that had been stored in huts cooled by fūketsu (wind holes).
In the Inakaku district of Matsumoto City, wind holes are created where air cooled by snowdrift water flowing underground gushes through crevices in the rock surface. The huts, which have been built around the wind holes and maintain a temperature of around 8 degrees Celsius (even in summer), have been used for over 300 years for aging pickles and other products.
Dainshunshū Shuzō, Kamedaya Shuzō (maker of Alps Masamune), and Sasai Shuzō (maker of Sasa no Homare) together stored a total of around 5000 bottles of sake in the huts for five months.
The breweries release the sake annually as a special autumn release.
Source - NHK
JG: I think the crossover between sake and another traditional craft food, pickles, is a great and likely effective marketing angle.
大信州酒造（大信州）亀田屋酒造（アルプス正宗）笹井酒造（笹の誉）
Mie- The Japanese yen has certainly taken a beating over the past few months, but some breweries are catching onto the potential for exports as the yen weakens.
Shimizu Seizaburo Shōten in Mie (known for Zaku) currently exports to 20 countries including Hong Kong, Australia, China, South Korea and France.
The brewery has reported a 1.5 increase in overseas sales compared to last year. Shinichiro Shimizu, president, commented that the weak yen is a great opportunity to increase sales, grow the market and increase demand for the future.
Source - Newsdig
JG: It is great to hear how one brewery is maximizing the exchange rate. While not all can do this, as many go through exporters, certainly others are benefitting as well.
清水清三郎商店 (作)
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Nada no Ki-Ippon
by John Gauntner
In SIN # 68, we covered the changing landscape in Nada and Fushimi, which described how things have evolved in the two largest sake-producing neighborhoods in the industry, Nada in Hyogo Prefecture and Fushimi in Kyoto city and Prefecture. As can be inferred from the sheer volume coming out of them, most of the largest producers in the country are located in one of these two localities.
Especially in recent years, as many consumers move (often unthinkingly!) toward the concept of craft, boutique and small production, the big brewers get increasingly dissed, overlooked, and lumped together as producers of everything that does not fit into those three vague classifications. And that is a shame. The large brewers of Nada and Fushimi make great sake as well as very affordable “daily use” sake, and to overlook the traditional styles of these two places means missing out on a huge chunk of sake culture, history and outright goodness.
I myself am particularly fond of the sake of both Nada and Fushimi, and find joy in keeping them in the ever-evolving world sake psyche. And in that light, let’s look at a great cooperative project amongst eight of the largest brewers in Nada.
Nada no Ki-Ippon is a lineup of sake from eight large, historically significant, great breweries that cooperate every fall and release one sake each, usually a tokubetsu junmai, that bear similar labels yet retain the original brand name and logo. What’s so fun about this is that, since the grade is more or less the same, we can see the individual character of each brewery, but also the collective character of the Nada region. After all, this is the place that defined what good, stable sake is all about hundreds of years ago.
What does the term ki-ippon mean? First and most importantly, it is not a legally defined term. That means that the meaning can vary from brewer to brewer, and region to region. But the commonly accepted meaning amongst most breweries is junmai-shu that was all made in one brewery.
Why would that second point be necessary? Because back in the day, when sake was top dog in the alcoholic beverage world in Japan, many breweries would outsource sake to smaller breweries, and blend it with what they made in-house. This is totally legal, and actually quite mutually beneficial amongst the producers involved. It still happens today, but on a much smaller scale.
But to reiterate: the term is not legally defined, and while there is consensus across the sake world on what it should mean, there are likely some exceptions. Also, its use is not at all limited to Nada brewers.
The Nada no Ki-Ippon lineup first appeared in 2011, and while the list of participating kuramoto has seen one or two drop out and be replaced by others, there are usually eight or nine participating producers. This year, those eight are Sawanotsuru, Kenbishi, Hakutsuru, Kikumasamune, Sakuramasamune, Hamafukutsuru, Hakutaka and Ozeki.
The series is released in September, and from my experience lingers in availability long enough to score a set if you poke around. I have very, very much enjoyed the set in the past and have high expectations for it this year as well. It is really enjoyable to taste and grasp the fundamental nature of each of the breweries, especially in comparison to the others.
You can see the whole set here: http://www.nada-ken.com/nada/
Not that I endorse one online retailer over another but here is one place you can get it if you live in Japan.
Note that there are other places, including smaller Nada-focused retailers in the immediate vicinity. It is not available outside of Japan. Also, in a pinch, the eight kuramoto all sell their own product individually as well.
Should you try one, or the set, remember: it is Nada-zake. As such, please do not expect light or aromatic sake, and certainly not fruit bombs or ostentatious sake. These are not daiginjo, and do not portend to be. Do, however, expect to come to deeply understand why Nada-zake is so good. Hyperbole aside, enjoying such sake is grounding in a sake-appreciation kind of way.
As a side note, it would be doubly cool if Fushimi started doing the same thing, or if they already are but we have not yet heard about it, then marketing it more broadly. I’m just sayin’.
Sake is autumn’s favorite season, and autumn is sake’s favorite season. Having just officially entered into that time of the year, it’s a great opportunity to check out stuff like hiya-oroshi, aki-agari, and Nada no Ki-Ippon.
This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit sakeindustrynews.substack.com/subscribe
Welcome to Issue #50 of Sake Industry News.
Yes, folks, thanks to you all we have made it to 50 issues of Sake Industry News!
It would be fair to say that things haven’t gone as we originally foresaw with COVID presenting itself just a few months after we got started, but we’ve managed to continue and we have all of you to thank for helping us reach this milestone. We’re going to continue doing our best to bring you the news from the Japanese sake industry and hope you’ll stick with us for the next 50 and beyond.
As the World Sake Day hangover clears, it’s hard to believe we’re already at that time of the year again where we begin gearing up for the imminent release of new sake (shinshu), which are bound to start dropping in a matter of weeks.
The vast majority of breweries will be “all systems go” as they iron out kinks, train new staff, acclimatize to new schedules and, of course, figure out just how this year's rice is going to behave. On top of all that, the weather has remained uncharacteristically warm despite being halfway into autumn. Hopefully things will cool down and let those sake-making enzymes do their thing as best as they can. We're looking forward to a positive and prosperous season for all the kura out there.
To celebrate our 50th Issue we have made this one free for everyone. If you are already a paid subscriber you have our sincerest thanks - Sake Industry News is not possible without you!
If you aren’t yet a paid subscriber - please consider it and get Sake Industry News delivered to your inbox twice a month. Subscribe today and get a 31 day free trial!
And now, here's the news...
By The Power Of Kōji
Tokyo- As recognition of the wonders of kōji and its role in the production of traditional Japanese alcoholic beverages, sake made with kōji mold has been included in UNESCO's Japanese Intangible Cultural Heritage list.
The announcement came today from JSS (Japan Sake & Shochu Makers Association) who have been lobbying the Agency For Cultural Affairs for inclusion on the prestigious list.
By definition outlined in the acknowledgement, alcohol made with kōji mold also covers shochu, awamori and hon-mirin as well as nihonshu (seishu/sake).
JSS hopes the recognition will drive further focus on Japan's national beverages and the history-laden techniques behind them. They have also pledged to preserve and improve on these techniques moving forward.
JG: I was privileged to work as a reviewer for the text for this project. It’s quite thorough and educational. If you can read Japanese, it is certainly worth seeking and reading.
無形文化財
Hakutsuru Goes Solar
Hyogo- As of September 27, Hakutsuru Shuzō has converted to solar powered electricity for its main brewing facility. The roof of HQ No.3 plant has been fitted with 381 solar panels producing enough energy to power 30 households.
The No. 3 plant is the largest of Hakutsuru's brewing facilities and is where some of the brewery's major brands are produced including, Maru, Jōsen Hakutsuru, Jōsen Hakutsuru Namachozo, Tokusen Tokubetsu Junmai Yamada Nishiki.
This isn't Hakutsuru's first foray into solar energy. The brewery's bottling facility which was constructed in 2012, has been running on solar power since 2015. These solar power upgrades are part of Hakutsuru Shuzō's ongoing commitment to its sustainable development goals.
Source - PR Times
JG: I am quite impressed by this, and although I have been to Hakutsuru many times, I was not aware of this effort on their part. Their sheer scale of operations makes this amazing. Thanks to Hakutsuru for this effort!
白鶴酒造 , まる , 上撰白鶴 , 上撰白鶴生貯蔵 , 特撰 , 特別純米酒 , 山田錦
Hakutsuru Nishiki 2020 Report
Hyogo- On the topic of Hakutsuru, on September 22, Hakutsuru Shuzō held its annual Hakutsuru Nishiki Summit 2021. The meeting is an opportunity for brewers that use Hakutsuru's proprietary sake rice, Hakutsuru Nishiki, to discuss the quality and performance of the rice in the previous year's sake.
Development of Hakutsuru Nishiki first began in the nineties and was created by crossbreeding Yamadahō and Wataribune rice (the same parentage as Yamada Nishiki). The new rice was officially released in 2007.
Since its release, several well-known breweries across Japan have taken to experimenting with the rice variety including Jūyondai, Tōyō Bijin, Azuma Ichi, Zaku, Kudoki Jōzu, Umenishiki, Momokawa, Abekan, Atagono Matsu and Ugono Tsuki.
During the summit, which was held online this year as opposed to the usual event at Hakutsuru's Nada offices, brewers gathered to discuss the performance of the 2020 harvest of Hakutsuru Nishiki.
Hakutsuru Nishiki has a larger grain size and shinpaku compared to Yamada Nishiki and has proven over the years to be high quality and relatively facile for brewers in the sake production.
Most breweries agreed the quality of the 2020 harvest was quite good with much less cracking in the grains than other varieties.
Takagi Shuzō (Jūyondai) described the 2020 harvest as, "softer than the 2019 crop. There were fewer cracks in the genmai (unmilled rice) rice and the water absorption rate was consistent with the previous year. Dissolution in themoromi was very good."
Hakutsuru Shuzō said of the 2020 crop , "This year other varieties had poor dissolution, but Hakutsuru Nishiki performed well. The management of the moromi was simple and trouble-free. Sake produced with Hakutsuru Nishiki showed clean and refreshing flavors."
JG: The fact that this rice comes from the same parentage as Yamada Nishiki makes me wonder how many other great offspring could result from more experimentation!
白鶴錦 , 十四代 , 東洋美人 , 東一 , 作 , くどき上手 , 梅錦 , 桃川 , 阿部勘 , 愛宕の松 , 雨後の月
Number Eight Is Alive
Yamaguchi- For the second year in a row, Murashige Shuzō has released Eight Knot, a special series of sake brewed using association no.8, yeast that was discontinued in 1977.
Association yeast no.8 is considered to be slower than other yeasts at converting sugars to alcohol. When it was used in the past it was known to produce robust sake with defined acidity, which was somewhat out of step at a time when light, clean and dry sake was popular. Having fallen out of favor with brewers, the yeast was discontinued in 1977 and subsequently archived by the Brewing Society of Japan.
Murashige Shuzō decided upon the idea of reviving no.8 yeast after noticing the increase in the consumption of western style cuisine in Japan. It was thought the robust nature of sake produced with no.8 could work well alongside these western dishes. The brewery first purchased strains of no.8 in 2003 and began releasing sake made with the yeast in 2017.
When the Eight Knot series was first released in 2020, its popularity saw the brewery exceed its initial sales target by more than 1300 percent.
The series is made up of two labels, To-ō and Shiro-neri, however brewing specs are kept unlisted on the label in order to encourage drinkers to enjoy the sake on its own merits without any preconceptions.
The name comes from the "eight knot" rope-tying method often used in sailing and rock climbing. The strength of the knot is symbolic of the strong tie between the brewery and its consumers.
For now the sake is being made available to supporters of Murashige Shuzō's crowdfunding drive on Makuake, however Eight Knots will be released to the general public in February 2022.
Source - Excite
JG: History and innovation together! The best of both expressed in the sake world, again!
村重酒造 , Eight knot (エイトノット) , 白練 , 藤黄 , 8号酵母
How Low Can You Go For Kame no O?
Hyogo- Tanaka Shuzōjō has released junmai daiginjō Kamenokō Kotobukikame made using Kame no O rice polished down to 6.6%. The sake went on sale on October 1.
The brewery has been brewing Kamenokō since 1998 when it started with a seimai buai of 50%. By the seventh year of its release the seimai buai had dropped to 10% before hitting 6.9% last year.
It took almost 10 days for the artificial diamond blade used in the milling machine to polish the rice down to 6.6%, leaving the rice grains with a diameter of less than 1mm.
The Kame no O rice was grown locally in the Hino region. Kame no O has a rich history as an heirloom rice (ie. pure rice variety, not a result of cross-breeding with other rice strains), having first been discovered in Yamagata Prefecture in 1893. Kame no O is not actually considered a sake rice and is often consumed as a table rice.
The story and flavor of Kame no O enticed President of Tanaka Shuzō, Yasuhiro Tanaka who decided to utilize its unique characteristics to develop the "ultimate umami-driven sake".
Not yet satisfied with a 6.6% seimaibuai, Tanaka plans on shooting for 5% eventually. Despite the delicate nature one might expect from sake made with such highly milled rice, Tanaka recommends room temperature or luke-warm for enjoying the aroma and flavors of Kamenokō Kotobukikame.
Tanaka Jozōjō have also produced Junmai Daiginjō Shirasagino Shiro Enmusubi Yūjiu made with Special A Grade Yamada Nishiki milled to 15.4%.
Both sake are limited to 250 bottles (720ml) and require a reservation for purchase. Kame no Kou is JPY22000 (USD194), and Enmusubi is priced at JPY27500 (USD242).
Source - Yomiuri
JG: Attention getting sake like this has its place, and does a great job of drawing more much needed attention to super premium sake. But 6.6 percent…sheesh!
田中酒造場 , 亀の尾 , 純米大吟醸 , 亀の甲 , 寿亀 , 山田錦 , 純米大吟醸 , 白鷺の城 , 縁結 , 結寿
Sake School Yielding Good Results
Hokkaido- Hekiungura unveiled its latest sake to the press on September 21. The sake was brewed at the university's on-campus brewery, which operates as an academic and industrial collaboration with Obihiro University of Agriculture and Veterinary Medicine and Kamikawa Taisetsu.
Shuntao Sakai (22) and Mizuki Takayama (21), both fourth-year students at the university, began working on the sake in May and managed all aspects of the brewing process, including washing and steaming the polished rice and making the kōji under the guidance of an experienced tōji. A portion of the 1800 bottles produced will be sold on campus from mid-October.
Sakai acknowledged it took a lot of hard, physical work to produce the sake, but the end result made it all worthwhile.
Source | Image - Kyodo
JG: It is about time that sake production education moves into the educational mainstream. This should have a very beneficial effect on the future of sake, methinks.
碧雲
Tottori Target India's Vegans
Tottori- Seven breweries in Tottori Prefecture have made the move to capture India's lucrative vegetarian market by securing vegan certification for their products.
India is home to an estimated 420 million vegetarians - a market ripe for the introduction of a vegan-friendly product such as sake.
The seven breweries involved in the project banded together and received certification from vegan accreditation provider, VegeProject Japan.
There are plans underway to move into export into India and also encourage Indian tourism to Tottori Prefecture. The group hopes the attention it receives in India will help to shine a light on the region's sake at a local level as well.
Breweries participating in the project are: Suwa Shuzō, Inata Honten, Ōtani Shuzō, Umetsu Shuzō, Gensui Shuzō, Yamane Shuzō and Nakagawa Shuzō.
Source - Asahi
JG: While I think penetrating into that market will take some time and effort, the vision to get it going is great. Good luck to the brewers of Tottori!
U.S. National Sake Appraisal Results Are In
USA- The results of the US National Sake Appraisal have been announced.
Since 2001 the appraisal and its accompanying Joy Of Sake event have been showcasing some of Japan's best sake on offer to a wider audience overseas.
This year's Grand Prix winners (the top in each category) were announced as follows:
Daiginjō A: Kudoki Jōzu Jr. no Shizuku (Kamenoi Shuzō, Yamagata)
Daiginjō B: Satsuki Roman Junmai Daiginjō Ikkai Hi-ire (Hanaizumi Shuzō, Fukushima)
Ginjō: Wakabotan Yamada Nishiki 50 Junmai Ginjō (Sanwa Shurui, Oita)
Junmai: Shuroku Tokubetsu Junmai (Raifuku Shuzō, Ibaraki)
JG: Of particular interest to me was that Raifuku won the junmai category, with a flower yeast. Very cool!
To celebrate our 50th Issue we have made this one free for everyone. If you are already a paid subscriber you have our sincerest thanks - Sake Industry News is not possible without you!
If you aren’t yet a paid subscriber - please consider it and get Sake Industry News delivered to your inbox twice a month. Subscribe today and get a 31 day free trial!
Industry Stirrings...
Kanagawa- Kumazawa Shuzō is known for craft beer as well as sake, but more recently the brewery has added cola to the portfolio - made with sake kasu (lees), no less.
Kuramoto Cola was first developed in May 2021 as a counter to the sales drop in sake and beer from the COVID-19 pandemic.
After experimenting with a variety of spices, the key ingredient in the cola ended up being sake kasu. The cola uses neri-kasu (kneaded lees), which differs somewhat from fresh sake kasu in that it is matured and takes on a brownish tinge. Neri kasu is often used in fermented condiments. Brewers have found the acidity from neri-kasu aligns well with the citrus fruit syrup in the cola, offering more umami.
Despite already releasing Kuramoto Cola, recipe adjustments are still ongoing. The unique and ever-changing taste of the cola, has been a great crutch for the brewery's overall drink sales which have been healthily maintained at 90 percent of normal sales in the face of the challenges presented by the pandemic.
Source - Withnews
JG: A brilliant market shift by Kumazawa Shuzo, brewers of Tensei sake. The main challenge is going to be pronouncing Kuramoto Cola. Try saying that ten times! Go on; try it!
熊澤酒造 , 湘南ビール , 蔵元コーラ
Japan- The Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare has released the results of a survey to uncover the drinking habits of its citizens. Although the survey covers the consumption of not just nihonshu, but alcohol in general, it gives an interesting (and surprising) insight into where the drinkers are. The survey was conducted in 2019.
Niigata Prefecture came out on top with 20.5% of respondents drinking everyday.
The rest of the top ten were as follows:
- Akita (20.3% of the people drink sake every day) 3. Hiroshima (18.9%) 4. Miyazaki (18.8%) 5. Shimane (18.7%) , 6. Aomori (18.6%) 7. Yamaguchi (18.5%) 8. Iwate (18.5%) 9. Toyama (18.2) 10. Kochi (18.1%)
Interestingly the lightweights of the country came from:
- Gifu (15%) , 44. Aichi and Tokushima tied. (14.9%) , 46. Shizuoka (14.7%) , 47. Okinawa (11.9%)
Source - Yahoo
Nara- On October 1, Ume no Yado Shuzō, like many breweries, prayed for safety in the coming brewing year. Significantly for the Ume no Yado Shuzō, this will be the last year for the brewery in its current location. The brewery plans to move within Katsuragi City to a new facility in July 2022. The current location and building structures were constructed 128 years ago. The brewery will be moving to a more modern and labor-efficient facility.
Source - Mainichi
JG: This is huge and nostalgic news for me, personally, since Ume no Yado was the very first sake brewery I ever visited, back in 1994. Back then, Philip Harper was still working there!
梅乃宿酒造
What Drives Modern Yeasts?
By John Gauntner
SIN readers are surely aware that I like to get technical in this column. However, I like to keep it real; like, real in the sense that it is tech that you can use. In other words, stuff you can talk about on the "sake street". And that’s the intention behind this issue’s article: what drives modern yeasts.
To start, I need to define "modern yeasts". For the record, I made up that term; it does not officially exist, but the idea does, and so do similar terms. As such, no one would really argue with my usage of it. And what I refer to is yeast strains that have come into use in, oh, say the last 20-odd years, and are markedly different from the varieties of yeast most commonly used before they came along, in particular those distributed by the Brewing Society of Japan (Nihon Jōzō Kyōkai).
How are they different? Most relevantly, in the aromas that they produce. Remember, yeast is most closely tied to aromas, and vice versa. And these modern yeast strains produce markedly different aromas.
Concretely speaking, instead of the banana, melon and grapefruit commonly found in sake made with more traditional yeasts (another term I just made up!), modern yeasts lead to more ripe red apple, various tropical fruit, and anise - lots of anise, in my opinion (but I may be overly anise-sensitive!). So, rather than when these yeasts were isolated or developed, I draw the line between the two based on the aromas they create.
There are other differences too, to be sure. For example, modern yeasts do not encourage a robust fermentation, and traditional yeasts tend to produce more body. But for most of us, what we smell and taste will be what we relate to the most, at least when it comes to yeast.
Why are the aromas different? Because the esters they create are different. Modern yeast strains tend to produce a lot more of something called ethyl caproate, an ester that smells like the aforementioned ripe apple, tropical fruit, and anise. And they can produce them in enough volume to make sake very aromatic.
These modern yeasts are naturally occurring. But years back the great Gekkeikan in Kyoto developed a technique to help isolate them. The process involves using an antibiotic called cerulenin that, among other effects, inhibits and changes fatty acids. By doing that the yeasts that are the result of the process create more ethyl caproate.
But most yeast cannot tolerate the presence of cerulenin, and die off. The ones that are resistant to it are candidates for producing the aforementioned prominent aromas. And so for this reason, the modern yeasts described here are often referred to as "cerulenin resistant yeast" strains in the sake brewing industry, or cerulenin taisei kōbō.
It is worth mentioning that, as commonly used in aromatic daiginjō as they are, not everyone likes them. Everything is good in the right dose, for sure, but some codgers in the sake world much prefer the aromatic profiles more common found when traditional yeasts like #7 and #9 are used.
Several years ago we began to see brewers slowly move away from the wilder aromas back toward the more staid, balanced profiles of the traditional yeasts. Not a massive swing, mind you, but a gentle one that leaves room for both sets of aromas in the sake world. And that is probably a good thing.
Another interesting thing to note about these modern, ethyl caproate-producing, cerulenin resistant yeasts is that they also produce something called caperatic acid, also seen as caproic acid. Apparently, you can’t have one without the other. The problem is that caperatic acid is very bitter, and that component can come through in the flavor of a sake with the tropical set of aromas.
This bitterness can be countered, however, with sweetness from glucose that is brought out at the right time, which is near the end of fermentation. How? By adding kōji as the yeast peters out so that the sugar the kōji creates will not be fermented, but will remain in the final sake. (It’s also worthwhile to note that straight enzymes can be used at this stage for the same purpose.) If done properly, sake made with such yeasts can have very enjoyably ostentatious aromas, and a somewhat sweet finish to complement that.
Note too, that this is one reason we hear much more talk in recent years about the glucose in sake, much more than we did even a decade ago. But also, it is important to note that super aromatic sake is not as popular as it was that scant decade ago. Juicier sake with a mouth-watering balance of sweetness and acidity has supplanted that a bit. Naturally, having both styles available to us is part of the fun of sake.
So the next time you run into ripe apple and anise in a sake on "the street," you can confidently smile and say, “Ah! Another cerulenin-resistant yeast!”
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Welcome to Issue #41 of SIN.
It's been an interesting few weeks in Japan. The weather has been threatening an early rainy season and the continuing state of emergency (which has been extended to June 20) has seen restaurants, bars and sake breweries put under further strain as sake sales continue to trudge along at a lethargic pace.
There's bound to be better days ahead. But for now, silver linings abound. The amount of quality online zoom events and webinars continues to grow, bringing the sake community closer together. And of course despite the grim state of the restaurant industry, the sake itself hasn't gone anywhere. There's plenty out there, which fortunately in this day and age can be ordered online with a couple of simple clicks. I guess we can be thankful this didn't happen in a more technologically deficient era or we'd be in big trouble.
We look forward to the day when we can bring you nothing but happy news of sake, prosperity, rainbows and unicorns, but for now we chin up and drink on.
We’ve made this issue of SIN Free for everyone - so please share it with your sake loving friends. If you are already a paying subscriber - then a huge thank-you from us - if not - please consider signing up as a paid subscriber today!
And now for the news...
Dassai Comes Out Swinging!
Japan- In news that certainly set the social media scene on fire in the past week, Asahi Shuzō took out a full page "opinion advert" in the Nikkei newspaper lambasting the Japanese government over its treatment of the service industry as it deals with the COVID pandemic.
In the advert CEO, Kazuhiro Sakurai points out that local economies are where the future of Japan's prosperity really lies. He adds that with the current lockdown measures in place restricting venues from serving alcohol and forcing them to cease trading by 8pm, the government is essentially forcing businesses into bankruptcy.
The advert also points out that the breakdown of COVID transmissions in Japan show that 52.1% have been through households, 16.2% through workplaces, 7.5% through welfare facilities and only 2.9% through restaurants. Despite this data, only restaurants are being held to such rigid restrictions which even those in power have been flouting as they have been caught dining out, further suggesting that even they do not believe the service industry is the main culprit in the spread of COVID. Sakurai says, "It is unbearable to see restaurants, which have been conveying the charm of Japan to the world through its food, silently having to close their doors one after another."
The reaction to the advert has overall been mostly positive with many sake brewers and restaurateurs voicing their support, saying Asahi Shuzō is expressing what's been on everyone's mind. Perhaps the only line that caused any real contention seemed to be the claim that, "if this continues, restaurants will be the biggest victims of the coronavirus." Although not specified in the advert, it is likely safe to assume Sakurai was speaking from an economical point of view and not ignoring or dismissing those that have lost their lives to COVID.
Ultimately, it was great to see a brewery of Asahi Shuzō's stature use its position to state a case for the service industry and, in turn, the sake industry which is also being severely affected by the Japanese government's handling of the COVID pandemic and the vaccine rollout. Whether the plea has any effect or simply falls on deaf ears in the government, we can't say yet. But it started a lot of conversations, which is surely a good thing.
JG: Indeed, many brewers lauded Asashi Shuzō for their courage, and commitment in placing a huge op-ad in a major newspaper. All around us, we see boarded-up restaurants to which we know we cannot return. And that of course affects alcohol producers, which affects rice growers, and it continues from there. There is little to add but hope does spring eternal.
More GI For Sake
Yamanashi- Following hot on the heels of Hagi in Yamaguchi Prefecture being awarded GI status, Yamanashi Prefecture has also been recognized with Geographical Indication status. The announcement makes Yamanashi the ninth region in Japan to be recognized for nihonshu and the first prefecture to hold two GI designations after being recognized for its local wine in 2013.
Like all GI designated products, Yamanashi sake must meet several criteria in order to be eligible to bear the GI seal. Such criteria include using water from one of six designated sources in the Southern Alps, Yatsugatake and the Northern Range and domestic rice higher than grade-3. Alcohol additions may not exceed 10%, and no sugars or other additives are permitted.
On May 17, the first certification meeting was conducted at Yamanashi Sake Brewers Association headquarters. Eight breweries submitted 34 sake for consideration.
Attendees from the Tokyo Tax Agency, Yamanashi Industrial Technology Center, and Prefectural Sake Brewery Research Association tasted and assessed the sake presented, but have yet to announce the results.
Source - Yomiuri | Asahi
JG: This is getting interesting! There are at least two more prefectures that I know of working on GI programs. I know at least one that will not take that route, but I wonder how many of Japan’s administrative areas will be able to secure GI. It’s going to get increasingly challenging, methinks, but is worth the effort for most places.
Top Honors For Aged Sake
France- Aged sake has been recognized on the international stage with three gold medals at the Concours Mondial Des Feminalise Wine Competition in France.
The awarded sake came from Takumi Sousei, a venture firm that sources aged sake (as well as umeshu, shochu and awamori) from all over Japan and then rebrands them under its own, Inishie no Bishu label. The group won three gold medals in the aged sake division.
The Concours Mondial Des Feminalise competition is made up of 600 female wine professionals from all over the world who blind taste and evaluate submissions over a grueling 39-point criteria system. Due to the increasing popularity of sake, the new nihonshu division was added last year.
The three gold medal winners from Takumi Sousei were:
1984 Iwanoi junmai (room temperature tank storage), brewed by Iwase Shuzō, (Chiba Prefecture).
2009 Maboroshi no Taki Ginjō, Tentakaku (room temperature tank storage), brewed by Mikunihare Shuzō (Toyama Prefecture).
2010 Tatsuriki junmai (room temperature tank storage) brewed by Honda Shōten (Hyogo Prefecture)
Takumi Sousen plans to release the three sake as part of a tasting set.
Full results can be seen here.
Source - Jiji
JG: Wow. This genuinely surprised me. The company behind seems refreshingly proactive and clever. I never have doubted how good aged sake can be, even if I prefer people to understand youthful sake first, before arriving at aged sake. And I usually shy from products that are outsourced and rebranded, but these products have the producer clearly indicated. Very interesting indeed.
古昔の美酒１９８４岩の井 純米 岩瀬酒造, ２００９幻の瀧 吟醸 皇国晴酒造てんたかく, 2010 龍力 純米 神力 本田商店
Curtain Closes On Seven-Year Sake Project
Miyagi- Since 2015, seven breweries in Miyagi Prefecture have been part of the Date-7 collaboration project. The project involves each brewery taking turns at hosting the other participating breweries at their facilities where the group collaborates on a new brew. The idea behind the project was for brewers to share ideas and techniques
This year saw Katsuyama Shuzō place host for the seventh and final year of the project. The final sake will be a junmai daiginjō brewed with Yamada Nishiki and will be available for purchase from July 7. The sake will also be available for export overseas.
JPY2970 for 720ml.
Source - Kahoku News
JG: SIN reported on the Date Seven project about a year ago, but then I did not realize it was only going to run for seven years. While I am sure it was a hassle, I thought it was great marketing, due in large part to the quality of (or perhaps my fondness of) the producers involved. Thanks to the Date Seven, and looking forward to tasting this last one.
仙台伊沢家勝山酒造
Another Brewery Goes Green
Fukushima- Daishichi Shuzō has announced its commitment to reducing the use of plastic packing materials used in shipping in order to promote sustainable development. The brewery aims to eliminate the use of plastic and switch to cardboard-based materials by summer this year.
Daishichi Shuzō worked with Nagoya-based company, Dynapack to come up with easy to assemble environmentally friendly packing materials.
A representative of the brewery said they aim to be more environmentally friendly throughout the whole process, from brewing to shipping. The brewery also hopes its overseas customers will recognize its efforts to further achieve sustainable development goals.
Source - Minpo
JG: I sense a burgeoning movement and trend at its nascent stages. Sustainably produced sake - that has a nice ring to it.
大七酒造
Results Of Fine Sake Awards Announced
Tokyo- The Fine Sake Awards (AKA sake in a wine glass) were held on April 8 in Tokyo. Entries were received from 261 breweries across the country.
The competition was divided into five categories: The Fine Sake Award Japan (main category), Sparkling Sake category, Premium Daiginjō, Premium Junmai and Premium Sparkling Sake.
Out of the 1000 sake submitted from the breweries, 253 were awarded gold medals and 57 were awarded grand gold medals.
JG: While in one sense, this is just another tasting competition, the results are great for seeing just which sake are likely to be well received by those that enjoy expressive and balanced sake. Like this guy.
JSS State Of The Industry Seminar
Tokyo- As reported in our last issue, the Japan Sake And Shochu Makers Association held its seminar on the current state of the sake industry in Japan.
More than 400 attended the live webinar, which has now been uploaded to YouTube to view (there are 4 seperate videos, one of which is below - the rest can be accessed here). Alternatively, some of the facts and figures that were discussed and presented can be viewed here. There's plenty to digest!
Fushimi Still Doing It Tough
Kyoto- Breweries in one of Japan's most well-known and popular brewing regions are reportedly struggling under the weight of the COVID pandemic and the state of emergency restrictions. Fushimi sake is normally distributed fairly evenly with half distributed through retail and half through on-premise bars and restaurants. Some breweries have reported 2020 shipments as being 30-40% less than the previous year. It has been reported that 20 breweries belonging to the Fushimi Sake Brewers Association are in significant financial difficulty.
The current third state of emergency prohibits alcohol sales through restaurants and bars. Sales through retail and online channels have barely been enough to keep the lights on for some. Many breweries have reduced production by 20%.
According to liquor wholesaler, Kyoya, which boasts a roster of 700 restaurants as customers, 60 to 70 % of venues are considering closing. Sales had reportedly dropped by 60% before the state of emergency, and have since dropped further to a 90% decrease in sales.
Even Hyogo Prefecture, Japan's largest production region, is struggling. Kobe Shushinkan (Fukuju), reports a sales slump of 30% compared to the same period in 2019 after the third state of emergency. Production of Yamada Nishiki in 2021 has also reportedly dropped by 25% to 10,000 tons.
Source - Nikkei
JG: Remember that the Fushimi region in Kyoto is the second largest producing region, and Nada which is in the above-mentioned Hyogo is the largest. There are many companies in these regions, and a handful of them are large. They are two the historically and culturally most significant sake-brewing regions in Japan, and it would be very, very unfortunate to lose companies in these places. Let us hope they can weather it through.
増田徳兵衛商店 , 神戸酒心館 , 宝酒造
National Sake Awards
Hiroshima- National Research Institute of Brewing (NRIB) announced the results of Zenkoku Shinshu Kanpyōkai for 2020 BY, awarding 207 gold medals. Nagano and Fukushima Prefectures took the largest hauls of gold medals with 17 each. The result gives Fukushima its eighth consecutive year as the prefecture awarded the most gold medals.
This year, 821 sake were submitted for consideration. From the submissions, 413 won awards, and of those, 207 were awarded gold medals.
This year, brewers reported that the rice was the hardest it had been in 10 years. Brewers reported that experimenting with water levels was key to countering the unfavorable rice condition.
Full results here: Gold Prize 2021
Source - Tokyo NP | Asahi
JG: SIN readers may recall the final round of judging had to be canceled last year, so no gold were awarded then. This year seems back on track, as far as the number of entries, awards and golds. Congratulations to Fukushima, although that was not unexpected, and congrats as well to Nagano. The hard rice is a direct result of hot summers. Interesting to see how the brewers have learned to work with that bit more effectively.
福乃香, 東日本酒造協同組合, 名倉山酒造 , 男山酒造店
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Industry Stirrings...
Hyogo- Nihonsakari has announced it will donate 10,000 liters of high-level ethanol to local governments to assist with the COVID vaccination rollout. The brewery has allocated 2000 tanks of 5-liter containers to local governments on a first come, first serve basis.
Source - Kobe NP | SSNP
日本盛
Tokyo- On May 26, SAKE HUNDRED, a luxury sake brand targeting global expansion, and Clear Inc., a web-based sake information hub, announced they have raised a total of 1.295 billion yen (USD11.3million) through third-party allocation of new shares. Underwriters include the Jafco Group as lead investor, existing investors Mitsui Sumitomo Insurance Capital, SMBC Venture Capital, Akatsuki's "Heart Driven Fund", OPENSAUCE, and other investors.
The group plans on using the new funds to support expansion into markets beyond its initial targets of Hong Kong and Singapore. The group hopes to bring its luxury brand export business to the US and UAE as well as grow and develop its media platform, Saketimes.
JG: Obviously, that is a significant investment, and the investors are equally significant entities. SAKE HUNDRED seems to have developed in both vision and clarity of objectives, and I have high expectations. I look forward to seeing even more concrete news on their products and development.
Stats Crazy!
By John Gauntner
As the pandemic continues well into its second year, its effects on humanity are difficult to measure, since at any one point in time conditions vary hugely from place to place. It is clearly in retreat in some countries, stagnating in others, and in some places it is actually poised to take off yet again.
Its effects on various industries, including the hospitality industry and in particular, the sake industry, are equally hard to ascertain. While we can get a snapshot of conditions and related statistics at any one moment, it’s very hard to glean anything useful from that about what to expect in the coming months and years.
For example, consider the statistics culled from the 2021 front pages of a weekly industry newspaper that I follow:
February 5: Sake shipments down 10.5% in CY (Calendar Year) 2020, futsūshu down 8.8%, junmai ginjō and junmai daiginjō collectively down 11.3%.
February 12: Exports were up (?) 7.5% as some places rebounded on a sales (monetary) basis year on year
February 26: Exports were down (?) 12.7% on a volume basis year on year
March 5: Domestic shipments of futsū-shu were up 5.5%, but all other grades, i.e. special designation sake, i.e. honjōzō, junmai and all four ginjō types were all down double digits (!)
March 12: January exports up 40% by volume, 53% monetarily
March 19: Alcoholic beverages as a category were down 5.8% in CY 2020
April 2: While unrelated to volumes, there are now only 1168 sake breweries active; we lost 90 in the last three years!
April 9: February domestic sake shipments down 8.2% over the previous year
April 23: February exports up 15% by volume, 43% monetarily as Asia and the US continue to recover.
May 14: Sake is down 9.6% for FY 2020 (Fiscal year, April 1 2020 to March 31 2021)
May 21: Exports up a whopping 38% in volume, 60% monetarily, thanks in large part to the Asian market. Also, domestic shipments of sake in March 2021 down only (?) 1.5% compared to March 2020.
As is evident from the above, the stats over the last few months are all over the map. In fact, stats like this for industries like (but not limited to!) the sake industry are indeed typically hard to understand. But on top of that, COVID has thrown such a wrench into the works that it is even harder than usual to see a trend in the downfall of sake, and hopefully in the subsequent recovery.
Statistics are a tangled knot of immediately measurable effects, others that are delayed by weeks or months, peripherally connected effects and those that will not actually be noticeable or measurable for months or years. Some combine to form a vicious circle, too.
Consider the fact that right now, since April 29 and continuing until June 20, no alcohol can be served in restaurants or (of course) bars in most major cities. The reverberations of this will not be totally hashed out for a long time, and the effects might ripple into other related industries as well. And in the recovery there will inevitably be setbacks as well.
The market sectors that are affected vary as well. Near the beginning of the pandemic, futsū-shu was holding its own but premium sake was taking the hit; maybe not so much anymore as lately inexpensive sake is down like 20% over the previous year. It’s all a moving target, and trying to assess it is an exercise in futility. But we should still try, just with lowered expectations of seeing a meaningful trend.
Readers may notice that there seems to be more stats about exports in the headlines above. This may seem a bit odd, since exports are only about six percent of all sake sales. That’s basically down in the noise of fluctuations. But even that point will vary from brewer to brewer. I know a couple that export a lot of their sake, like 30 to 50% and they seem to be doing very well amidst all of this. And also, exports seem to be the lone source of positive news, at least of late.
Less commonly reported amongst the statistics (that I read, that is) is that restaurants and retailers are going under too, retailers because in Japan they sell to restaurants. Yet at the same time, new entrepreneurial (or just plain crazy) restaurateurs are planning openings where others have closed down – equally hard to follow.
So in the end, it may be best to not pay too much attention to the statistics related to the sake industry as we work through the pandemic. Odd though it may sound, we have no choice but to put our nose to the grinding stone and drink sake, and do our best to get others to join us too.
This too shall pass, and let’s all do our best to help the sake industry get through as best as can be managed.
This is a public episode. Get access to private episodes at sakeindustrynews.substack.com/subscribe
Welcome to Issue #30 of Sake Industry News.
As this will be our final issue before the year end holidays we'd like to take this opportunity to thank all our readers and subscribers for our wonderful first year. To say the year (in particular, the last 10 months or so) has been unusual would be a facetious understatement, but here we are.
It would be naive to believe that everything is going to magically get better as soon as the calendar turns over to 2021, but we still remain positive that we'll at least see the beginnings of a return to normal. And with a bit of luck, hope, and most preferably, a vaccine, we look forward to a new year when we can get back to brewery visits, tasting events, our favorite sake bars and of course sharing sake with those we love.
Whatever your plans for the year end holidays and the New Year, we hope your festive season is filled with fun, laughter, joy and of course, plenty of sake.
All the best from SIN!
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And now here's the news...
IWC Results Are In
London- The International Wine Challenge or perhaps better known as IWC, the world's largest wine competition, has announced the winners from its 2020 award season.
The 2020 Sake Competition was comprised of nine divisions: Table Sake (futsūshu), junmai, Junmai Ginjō, Junmai Daiginjō, Honjōzō, Ginjō, Daiginjō, Sparkling, and Aged sake.
Gold, Silver and Bronze medals were awarded along with IWC "recommended" and one special prize trophy to be chosen from among the gold medal recipients as the Champion Sake. In total, 1401 different sake were submitted for assessment with 88 being awarded gold medals.
Heiwa Shuzō from Wakayama, well known for its flagship sake Kid, took home this year's Champion Sake award for its Maryuzan Junmai Ginjō. And in further cause for celebration for Norimasa Yamamoto and his team, the brewery was recognized as Sake Brewery Of The Year for the second year in a row. Watanabe Shuzō in Gifu Prefecture received the best value award for its Komachizakura Betsu Gakoi futsūshu.
The IWC added the sake division to its competition in 2007, and is considered to be an important gauge for exporting trends.
Click here for full winner results.
JG: In spite of all that is happening, and after a postponement, the IWC ran their event this year as well. Usually I am honored to be a judge at the event, but for obvious reasons that was just not possible. This year the event was run with judges almost exclusively from the UK and under strict conditions. I am sure it was challenging and my respect goes out to all that were involved.
Heiwa Shuzō 平和酒造 , Kid 紀土 , Muryōzan Junmai Ginjō 無量山 純米吟醸 , Watanabe Shuzō 渡辺酒造 , Komachizakura Betsu Gakoi 小町桜 別囲い
Power Struggle Breaks-up Legendary Kyoto Brewery
Kyoto- The sake world was stunned by an unexpected announcement from Hidehiko Matsumoto, tōji of Matsumoto Shuzō, makers of Sawaya Matsumoto.
The rather blunt and direct notice came via Matsumoto's Facebook page on December 1 where he announced his intention to retire from his family's brewery effective December 31. While this came as a shock for many, the story behind his resignation was even more curious. According to the post, just as the first sake of the season was being pressed, the brewery’s shareholders called a board meeting. There the board announced that Hidehiko's father, and president of Matsumoto Shuzō, Yasuhiro Matsumoto, was being removed from his position as president effective immediately and further removed from his position as director effective December 8. Matsumoto Shuzō has been financially supported by shareholders following an arrangement made under a previous generation's jurisdiction.
According to Hidehiko's statement, the shareholders have never had any role in the brewing side of the business which made it all the more concerning when they apparently refused his proposal to allow his father to stay on until the brewing season had finished. Hidehiko felt there was no way in good conscience he could stay on without his father by his side and subsequently submitted his resignation.
According to the post, Matsumoto and his father have not yet planned any future course of action but for now he is deeply disappointed that he cannot be by the side of his brewing team that has worked so hard to make his family's sake.
The story has unfolded a little further with some complicated backstory explaining the family affairs of Matsumoto Shuzō. Hidehiko’s cousin Shōji Matsumoto has been named as the new president of the brewery.
Hidehiko’s father, Yasuhiro is the second eldest of four brothers who were part of the family brewery. The new president, Shōji, is the son of the eldest of the four brothers. The third brother of the Matsumoto clan, Shōhei was the one behind the popular Sawaya Matsumoto brand. The story goes that once nephew, Hidehiko, came on board as tōji and proved himself more than competent as a tōji and leader, Shōhei gracefully stepped down from his role in the brewery under the proviso that the integrity of Sawaya Matsumoto was maintained.
What has since transpired in the company and family is unclear (and perhaps none of our business), but both Shōji and Shōhei’s signed their names to a fax that was sent to the brewery’s loyal retailers informing them of the developments indicating that Shōhei is likely in agreeance with the new developments.
SIN will bring more news on this unusual story as it unfolds.
JG: This really is unfortunate, and a huge loss for the industry. But in the end, it is a Matsumoto family issue, and it would be inappropriate for any of us to comment any further.
Matsumoto Shuzō 松本酒造
New Brewery Opens Its Doors To The Public
Hokkaido- Obihiro University of Agriculture has opened its on-campus sake brewery, Hekiungura to the public for sales and visits.
The brewery was conceived by Kamikawa Taisetsu Shuzō and is run under group company Tokachi Ryokkyu. Construction of the brewery was completed in April this year and brewing officially began in September.
The brewery officially opened its doors to the general public on November 18, allowing visitors to purchase its brand, Tokachi sake directly and see some of the brewing process in action.
The brewery is also teaching students about the science of brewing under the tutelage of tōji, Shinji Kawabata.
Source - Tokyo NP
JG: Hokkaido will be a place to watch for sake brewing over the next few years. With two new breweries, and lots of effort being applied to growing Hokkaido-specific sake rice varieties, its significance as a sake-producing region continues to grow.
Kamikawa Taisetsu Shuzō上川大雪酒造 , Tokachi十勝 , Hekiungura碧雲蔵 , Tokachi Ryokkyu十勝緑丘
Dassai's Milkshake Brings All The Boys To The Yard
Tokyo- In a yet another one for the "only in Japan" category, one of the most unusual collaborations in the sake industry is set to hit the market for the New Year.
Asahi Shuzō, of Dassai fame is teaming up with hamburger chain, Mos Burger to create the Dassai Mazeru Shake. But before you start typing out an angry email to Mos Burger taking them to task for the socially irresponsible promotion of serving sake milkshakes in a family restaurant, you can relax -the shakes will be made using amazake.
For those unfamiliar with amazake, despite its name it is actually is a non-alcoholic (or in some cases very low alcoholic) beverage made using water, steamed rice and kōji rice, and sometimes sake kasu (lees). Amazake is a popular drink among all ages in winter when it can be enjoyed warmed. Amazake has been produced for hundreds of years and is often served to infants, and is occasionally even served as a part of school lunches.
The Dassai Mazeru Shake will offer customers the chance to mix (mazeru) Dassai amazake made with Yamada Nishiki rice milled to 50%, into a Mos Burger vanilla shake and enjoy the flavor combinations that can be created with different amazake to vanilla shake ratios.
The special shake will only be available from December 26 until early February or when stocks run out.
JG: Yamada Nishiki in milkshakes - wild. Yet another very creative solution to using excess sake rice. Remember that rice was ordered and planted before COVID hit, and then the brewers simply could not use it all up. But once planted, if the brewers do not buy it, they will lose the trust of the growers, which bodes not well for the future. Brilliantly creativity. Let us hope it contributes to the solution.
Asahi Shuzō 旭酒造 , Dassai 獺祭 , Dassai Mazeru Shake 獺祭まぜるシェイク
Sake Decadence Reaches New Heights
Kyoto- In 2019 the Tokisake Association was established under the eye of Tokubee Masuda (maker of Tsuki No Katsura) in order to promote and ignite interest in aged premium sake.
Now the association is releasing a special eight-bottle set comprised of one bottle of aged sake from each of the seven founding producers, along with one special bottle made as a blend of the seven by renowned sommelier Shinya Tasaki.
The eight-bottle set has set a record for such a product with an eye-watering price tag of 2.02million yen (USD19.4K).
The set is made up of:
Masuda Tokubee Shoten (Kyoto): Tsuki No Katsura 1999
Kokuryū Shuzō (Fukui): Kokuryū Muni Junmai Daiginjō Genshu 1996
Dewazakura Shuzō (Yamagata): Dewazakura Daiginjō Daikoshu cold aged 1990 & 1986
Nanbu Bijin (Iwate): Nanbu Bijin Zen-Kōji Junmai 1998
Shimazaki Shuzō (Tochigi): Azumarikishi Uroko Daiginjō Genshu 1987
Nagai Shuzō (Gunma): Mizubasho Shizuku Daiginjō Ice Aged 2003
Kidoizumi Shuzō (Chiba): Kidoizumi Afs Yamahai Junmai 1984
Shinya Tasaki's blend: Toki no Shirabe
Twenty sets were made available by reservation only. Reservations closed on December 5, so we apologize to any of our readers who had hoped to get their hands on this uber-premium set.
Source - Businesswire
JG: This is genuinely interesting for a myriad of reasons. The producers are all outstanding and have lots of experience in aging their sake. (Curiously, though, Daruma Masamune, the Gifu brewery that basically makes aged sake their whole schtick, is not involved.) Also, they are potentially forging a new market for sake – that of very expensive and very rare products. And, they have eased their way into it by only making twenty sets this first year, with encouraging initial results.
I do think that there will be challenges in growing the sector. One, aged sake is significantly different from regular sake, and is not as widely enjoyed. Next, a brewery cannot ramp up the production of aged sake – it takes time, obviously. It takes like ten years to make a ten-year aged sake.
Nevertheless, the sake market will benefit from a more expensive sake sector. So let’s see how this unfolds over the next few years.
Tokisake Association 刻SAKE協会 , Masuda Tokubee Shōten 増田徳兵衛商店 , Kokuryū Shuzō 黒龍酒造 , Dewazakura Shuzō 出羽桜酒造 , Nanbu Bijin 南部美人Shimazaki Shuzō 島崎酒造 , Nagai Shuzō 永井酒造 , Kidoizumi Shuzō 木戸泉酒造 , Toki no Shirabe 刻の調べ
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Niigata Brewery Nails Best Match For Yellowtail
Niigata- Obata Shuzō has taken food and sake matching to a new and scientifically accurate level with its latest release. The brewery used an electronic taste sensor to breakdown the components that would help them design the best sake possible for matching with yellowtail fish.
Winter is the season for tasty yellowtail and Sado Island, where the brewery is located, is considered a hotspot for high-quality, fatty yellowtail. The detailed research led to the development of Manotsuru Brease (buri to dōzo). Buri is Japanese for yellowtail, so the "brease" is a play on words of the English, "please". A bit of a stretch? Maybe.
The junmai sake went on sale on November 25 and is said to be perfectly designed to draw out the umami of yellowtail.
Sake is known to go well with just about any seafood, but the taste spectrum of seafood is of course varied, as it also is for sake. And as the food matching concept gains more traction, the idea of finding more specific matches for fish and sake is a relatively new concept.
As part of the design process, Obata Shuzō first analyzed which sake in its portfolio was the best chemical match with yellowtail and then tweaked the sake production process further to matching perfection. Manotsuru Brease is described as dry and smooth with a full rice flavor and light acidity and can be enjoyed chilled or warmed to enhance the umami of yellowtail.
Source - Jiji
JG: In Japan, sake is often said to “support food” without getting in the way. While that is true about sake, some feel that maybe not enough attention has been applied to precise pairings of sake and food. Projects like this will attract positive attention and publicity to sake and food pairing, and hopefully encourage more folks to develop their own pairings, with or without cool technology.
Obata Shuzō尾畑酒造 , ブリとどうぞ
Kojima Sōhonten Goes Full-Junmai
Yamagata- Kojima Sōhonten, producers of popular sake, Tōkō has made the switch to junmai-only production as of this season.
The move means the brewery will no longer produce any honjōzō products and will cease all use of distilled brewers alcohol in sake production. Brewery president, Kenichiro Kojima said part of the motivation behind the move was as a throwback to the roots of sake brewing.
The brewery still has inventory of aruten sake that will still be shipped and sold till stocks are depleted and from there all sake released will be junmai only.
JG: I myself am not at all anti-added-alcohol. I enjoy a lot of honjozo and non-junmai ginjo sake. But more brewers are moving toward all junmai, many of them sensing that the market is moving in that direction. While I support their efforts, I hope non-junmai remains a valid and significant part of the sake market.
More Certification For Nanbu Bijin
Iwate- Nanbu Bijin has added to its vegan and kosher certification with new credentials as a certified non-GMO producer in North America. Non-GMO refers to the use of non-genetically modified organisms in production ingredients and processes. In North America, non-GMO food has gained some attention in recent years as more consumers focus on the ingredients in their food and general health. Nanbu Bijin is hoping this will be another step to expand their growth in the US market.
Of the Nanbu Bijin portfolio, eleven different sake including their tokubetsu junmai, junmai ginjō, sugar-free umeshuand other fruit liqueurs three have satisfied the standard of the Non-GMO Project, the organization that determines certification. Nanbu Bijin obtained Kosher certification in 2013 and Vegan Certification in 2019. For sake to obtain non-GMO certification is still relatively unusual.
"The rice used in sake brewing is non-GMO Japanese rice. We didn't need to change anything in our brewing methods to qualify for certification; just like our vegan certification. Hopefully this certification will give us a wider reach with health conscious consumers in the US market," said Kosuke Kuji, president of Nanbu Bijin.
Nambu Bijin exports to 54 countries in Europe, Asia and Africa as well as US. As the non-GMO market is growing globally the brewery plans on applying for certification in other regions.
Source - Nikkei
JG: Kuji-san and Nanbu Bijin continue to have a positive effect on making sake popular to an ever-increasing audience. Expect to see more and more breweries follow their lead.
Nanbu Bijin 南部美人
New License Legislation To Come Into Effect In 2021
Tokyo- As reported earlier this year, the Japanese government made an announcement declaring a revised liquor tax law that would see brewing licenses approved for new enterprises looking to brew sake for the express purposes of international export was being considered.
The proposal recently passed the Diet and the new legislation will come into effect in April 2021. The government is currently using sake as a main product of its ‘Cool Japan Strategy,’ promotion of Japanese goods and hopes the new legislation will help to expand export.
Despite the seemingly good news, the local sake industry remains a little confused.
Liquor licenses are divided into beer, shōchū and other categories, and each has various production stipulations as part of the license conditions. In the case of seishu, a producer must produce a minimum annual production of 60,000 liters (33,000 bottles of 1.8 Liter bottle equivalent). Compared to the 6,000 liters required for fruit liquor and beer licenses, the sake production requirement is significantly high which has historically been a big hurdle for anyone looking to start a new sake brewery in Japan.
This new revision will allow a new brewery to obtain a license without a minimum production requirement on the condition the brewery produces sake for export purpose only. This deregulation is only for new entrants to the industry.
According to the National Tax Agency this condition is in place to minimize the impact new breweries would have on the domestic sake market.
Source - Mainichi
JG: It will be interesting to see how many new companies that will brew only for export will actually be formed, and who will be behind them. I cannot, in all honesty, imagine that there will be very many. I am sure we will report on this again as it unfolds.
Sawada Shuzō Ponders Next Steps Following Blaze
Aichi- After suffering a freak fire that decimated the brewery's kōji room, Sawada Shuzō are looking at how to make a comeback. The cause of the fire, which broke out on November 27 is believed to have started from a short circuit in the electric hotbed wiring.
As reported in our last issue, the kōji room has been completely destroyed while three tanks of moromi were left unsalvageable. In addition, mid-production batches of kōji were also destroyed and the brewery was left with much soot and ash damage as well as a smoke odor throughout the facilities. They are currently assessing sake that was already bottled or in tanks for smoke taint. If the new sake (shinshu) is deemed suitable for release, the brewery plans on releasing it, but has no concrete plans yet for a return to brewing.
Check out the video of the Koji room from their twitter account.
JG: Let’s hope that Sawada Shuzō can recover from this. Let’s support them in any way we can, if only by drinking more of their sake, Hakuro. But they are small so it may be hard to find. Nevertheless, other ways to express our support may arise.
Sawada Shuzō 澤田酒造
Terroir Museum Opens In Hyogo
Hyogo- Honda Shōten has opened a tasting and sake research space in Himeji City near the brewery dedicated to the concept of Hyogo terroir.
Best known for its popular Tatsuriki label, the brewery has dabbled in the terroir concept before through its terroir tasting set of Tatsuriki sake; three sake made exactly the same but using top-grade Yamada Nishiki from three of the premium growing regions of Hyogo Prefecture. The Terroir Museum will offer tasting samples that showcase the concept of terror as well as display terroir research materials. The former president of Honda Shōten, Takeyoshi Honda was a firm believer in the influence of soil on rice quality and in turn sake characteristics. For some 20 years until his death Honda regularly studied and categorised the characteristics of different soils at the Kyoto University's Soil Laboratory. Current president Ryusuke Honda said, "tasting sets that focus on different rice varieties are commonplace, but comparisons between different soil plots are a rare thing. I hope we can be a brewery where people can find new ways to enjoy sake."
Source - Kobe NP
JG: I am very sure that this will be a fascinating place to visit and look forward to getting down there soon. The Honda family has tons of visual materials and reports analyzing the soil of their part of the country, famous for growing the best Yamada Nishiki. I am sure that visiting the museum will be a wonderful experience.
Honda Shōten本田商店 , Tatsuriki 龍力 , Terroir Museum テロワール館
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Industry Stirrings...
Akita- One of the most anticipated releases for hardcore sake geeks is here with the 2020 offering from Akita Prefecture's "Next Five".
Next Five is a group of five breweries from Akita Prefecture that collaborate each year in an effort "make sake for the future". The group combines their collective skills to push the envelope a little and bring sake into a new era with modern flavors, marketing and panache.
This latest release has been named Ispahan and is a kijōshu. Kijōshu is a unique style of sake where water used in the production process is substituted with actual sake, albeit of a lesser quantity than if water were used. The resulting sake is usually of a dense, sweet nature, ideal as dessert sake. The sake used instead of water in the project was vintage sake from Aramasa Shuzō that had been aged in oak barrels.
This year the group collaborated with French pâtissier, Pierre Hermé who created one of his signature ispahan pound cakes to be sold as a limited release set with the sake. Ten thousand sets are available for JPY13800 (USD133), making this the group's most expensive release to date.
For more information on Akita Next Five see John Gauntner's story from issue #21
Supply and Demand; The Year Ahead For Sake Rice
By John Gauntner
The Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries (“MAFF”) issues a monthly report on rice. The October report was a report on the demand for sake rice currently and into the next few years. While not bright in its outlook, it did shed light on the state of the rice-growing industry.
After the 2019 growing season, there was a surplus of 13 to 15 thousand tons of sake rice. This could be attributed to a number of factors, as yields go up and down each year and do not necessarily correspond to predictions.
Then, in 2020, demand for sake rice dropped hugely by 24 percent, or 23 thousand tons. This is expected to lead to a huge surplus, but the final numbers will not be calculated until January of 2021.
Based on all of this, in 2021, sake rice production will need to be curtailed by 27 percent, or about 26 thousand tons, in order to begin to approach a balance between supply and demand. But this does not even take into account the rice that is likely to be left over from the 2020 harvest, and when that is factored in, it will likely be necessary to reduce even further the amount of sake rice that is grown.
The report noted that the supply and demand balance for 2020 could not be fully assessed until January, once all the rice production numbers were gathered. This will be included in their February 2021 report.
The report emphasized that stable business relations and transactions between rice producers and sake brewers (or rather sake rice purchasers; strictly speaking that could include middlemen and trading houses) would be vital. It also emphasized that in order to help rice producers grow the appropriate amounts of rice, contracts and also multi-year contracts (which are hitherto not common) should be encouraged.
Based on the results of a survey that they sent this year to 1421 brewers, of which 730 responded, asking how much sake rice would be needed in the 2021 brewing season, the number was down to 56 thousand tons, or 19 percent, from 2018 levels.
The same survey sent last year, however, i.e. pre-COVID, indicated that the same amount of rice was expected to be needed in 2021 versus the 2018 season. However, obviously COVID drastically dropped both domestic and export shipments. And this, in turn, left to a lot of rice that went unused, and remains in storage.
Note that, as reported in a previous issue of SIN, a lot of research is going into how to best store rice for use in a later brewing season. While the optimum conditions have not been fully ascertained, using one of several methods (i.e. temperature and humidity levels in controlled storage) will ensure the rice will stay in good condition for brewing. This should, of course, help a bit.
While the report did not address this, one challenge may be getting rice producers to grow more sake rice again once things stabilize. It may be appealingly easy for them to stick with table rice rather than to switch back to persnickety sake rice.
As is the case with just about everything these days all that can be done now is to patiently wait and see how things unfold.
And our role as sake professionals is simple: drink more sake, promote more sake, sell more sake.
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World Sake Day is finally here!
From all of us at Sake Industry News we wish you all the best for World Sake Day! You don't need us to tell you what a crazy year it's been for the sake industry and the rest of the world, but for this day at least, let's do our best to focus on the good; and that is, there’s still a load of great sake out there and there's still plenty of dedicated brewers, retailers, importers/exporters and promoters bringing this wonderful beverage to us all over the world.
So on this day, we raise a glass to everyone in the industry and to all the drinkers that keep this fascinating, awe-inspiring, and glorious industry alive! Kampai!!
And finally, if this video of some of the Japan’s brewers and worldwide sake supporters showing off their questionable dancing talents doesn't put you in the mood for a Sake Day party we don't what will.
We have also made today’s newsletter free to both our paying and non-paying subscribers. If you are a paid subscriber - a huge thank-you for your support over the last year - without you there would be no Sake Industry News.
If you are teetering on the edge of a paid subscription - we really hope that you are able to join us - as a paid sub you get - 2 subscriber only posts per month (audio and email version) and complete access to all the Sake Industry News Archives, so teeter no longer - here is a link that gets your first two issues free!
Ok now for some news...
From The Editor: Please note that in our previous issue, an article regarding Naomi Osaka's involvement with SŌTŌ Sake contained some ambiguous wording which may have been interpreted to read that SŌTŌ Sake is an American-made product. For clarification, SŌTŌ Sake is produced entirely in Japan in Niigata Prefecture.
Sake Flavor Database Launched
Tokyo- A new app is joining the market to help consumers identify sake that suits their own tastes. Sakenowawas developed by Aiiro Systems and offers free data compiled by consumers for commercial and non-commercial use.
The app works as a community generated database. Users of the app enter information on sake they tasted to the database which groups flavor in six categories: aroma, richness, volume, mellowness, lightness, and dryness to create a tasting chart. Finer details describing flavor can also be hashtagged. Popularity rankings and basic information of each brand is also available.
There are currently 3094 sake registered in the app, and 2526 hashtags describing various flavor traits of sake. Of the sake registered in the app, approximately 933 brands have complete data with descriptions, hashtags and a complete flavor chart. Users can search for sake by brand and also flavor profile.
CEO of Aiiro Systems, Akira Ueda, said, "We've created an extensive and reliable database. Because this data is compiled by consumers for consumers, it is more easily relatable than complex tasting notes written by professionals."
Retailers can also use the chart to describe sake in their fridges as well as use ranking data to gauge which sake are popular with consumers. Sake can be searched for by brand or by flavor profile to find a sake of a specific style.
Currently, there are estimated to be around 5000 core/active users and monthly visit numbers are around 50000.
The app also has a built in translation feature which allows users to choose Japanese, English or Chinese.
Search for “Sakenowa” on your phones app store.
Source - Sakenowa
JG: Tech knows no bounds! However, it does seem easy to use and like something that might catch on.
Drone Technology Assisting In Rice Farming
Kanagawa- Popular brewery Izumibashi has stepped firmly into the new age by implementing drone assistance to monitor the growth and condition of the kura's rice fields.
Kanagawa Prefecture and Keio University are also assisting the brewery in this new approach to precision agriculture, using IT and other technologies.
On September 3, drones flew over the brewery's Yamada Nishiki fields and recorded pictures and video growth of stalk ears. The drones are fitted with a camera that is able to capture various wavelengths of red and green light reflected by leaves and stalks as well as near infrared data.
When photosynthesis is occurring vigorously, the red light is absorbed, and near infrared is reflected allowing the farmers to see which area of the field is undergoing healthy photosynthesis. According to Izumibashi, an overly active photosynthesis will increase protein in rice, which in turn can cause unwanted flavors in sake.
Traditionally, such checks were carried out manually and were gauged by the experience of the farmer, but going forward the brewery hopes to use scientific data to control growth.
Rice fields are divided into 30 plots which will be analyzed individually at each growth stage. Later they will check the quality of the harvest against the gathered data to understand the best way to use the information in the future.
Yuichi Hashiba, President of Izumibashi said, “We are a brewery that brews sake and grows rice. Now we have another method to improve our rice quality and in turn, sake quality. Until now we relied only on our experience to best manage rice growth, but now we can move forward with this new technology.”
Source - NHK
JG: I have seen great video footage of these drones in action and they do seem to be great labor-saving devices. I am sure other rice producers will begin to use these.
Izumibashi Shuzō 泉橋酒造
Dassai To Bring The Nightlife Back
Tokyo- Asahi Shuzō will be opening its latest venture, a Dassai-themed pop-up bar in the chic Tokyo suburb of Maronouchi, today October 1.
Originally, the brewery planned on setting up the bar as a stylish venue for visitors to the Tokyo Olympics, however with the Olympics postponed due to COVID, the plan was shelved. The bar was then reconsidered as part of the "bring back the Tokyo nightlife" campaign designed to reinvigorate the bar and restaurant scene in the wake of the financial downturn from COVID.
The small bar is located on the seventh floor dining area of the Shin-Maronouchi Building overlooking the cityscape and will offer a wide range of Dassai products. Drinkers will be free to roam about the floor and on to the outside terrace as weather permits.
Asahi Shuzō plans on keeping the bar open for eighteen months.
JG: Marunouchi is an easily accessible place, and again, kudos to Asahi Shuzo for making the most of a challenging situation. They do that again and again. Can’t wait to get there!
Asahi Shuzō 旭酒造
A Peculiar Smell Coming Out Of Kyushu
Fukuoka- A new release from Yamano Kotobuki Shuzō is gaining attention for its distinctive aroma not found in many other sake .
Yamano Kotobuki Freaks 2 is a follow-up to Yamano Kotobuki Freaks, which was brewed under a different concept from traditional Yamano Kotobuki. The sake is noted for featuring an aroma compound known as 4MMP (4-mercapto 4-methylpentan-2-one), widely considered a new aroma component for sake.
4MMP has been known to appear in white wine - mainly Sauvignon Blanc, and some hop-driven craft beer and is identified by bright, fresh aromas of grapefruit and muscat grapes.
Those that were able to taste the sake prior to its release described the taste as, "Totally different from traditional nihonshu," and "tasting of fresh watery muscat grapes, similar to wine."
Source - Hakata Keizai
JG: This kind of thing is genuinely interesting to me, and will be to other geeks as well. I am sure we will soon hear brewers and other tasters drop the 4MMP buzzword soon, like we hear the 4VG buzzword these days.
Yamano Kotobuki 山の壽
Sake And Cheese: The Perfect Match Realized
Wakayama- Cheese and sake is a pairing many have been lauding for quite a while, and now a cheese maker in Wakayama Prefecture is pushing the concept even further as he aims to create the perfect cheese for sake - made of course using sake lees.
Yoshitomi Miyamoto is the owner Copain du Fromage, a cheese specialty store. He obtained his cheese sommelier qualification in 2008, and opened his own store in 2014.
Last autumn, he began working on cheese made for sake after being invited to an event conducted by Kobe Shushinkan held to promote consumption of sake lees and their use in cooking.
Miyamoto's first prototype was released in February, but he felt the flavor of the cheese to be too rich for the elegant flavor of sake lees and pulled the product. He started to use milder cheese, such as French galle de la loire and German cambozola as a base, which seemed to work better with sake. To create his original cheese Miyamoto coated the cheese with sake lees and cacao butter and left it to mature for 20 days in cedar barrels in order to gain a mild cedar aroma reminiscent of a wooden masu similar to the way French cheese makers mature cheese in wine barrels.
Miyamoto is currently in talks with a prominent sake brewery to put together a sake and cheese set they hope will be served at the Nobel Prize Winners festivities scheduled to be held in December.
Source - Asahi | Copain
JG: Many people see the potential of sake and cheese pairings. Certainly this will bring more attention to that. The sake made by Kobe Shushinkan by the way is called Fukuju.
Kobe Shushinkan 神戸酒心館
Update: Hop-Infused Sake For Fukushima
Fukushima- As reported in our last issue, a new enterprise is coming to Minamisōma City in Fukushima Prefecture in the form of a brewery that will be producing a "new" style of sake made with hops. The company behind the project is Haccoba, with funds for the project generated through crowd funding site, Makuake. Although the brewery's official launch is set for February 2021, test batches will be available to funders in the coming months.
Minamisoma City became completely uninhabited after the nuclear power plant disaster of 2011. Although public transportation services and retail businesses are slowly coming back to the area, the population is still only about one third of what it was pre-disaster. Haccoba is hoping to become a part of this new community for locals and visitors with sake set to be a conduit to encourage discussions of social issues.
Haccoba plans on utilizing traditional sake brewing techniques, but with a "free-style" approach more associated with the craft beer movement. The company has obtained a license to produce "miscellaneous alcohol" beverages and not an actual seishu license, meaning the product will fall outside of the nihonshu category (although with hops as an ingredient we kind of saw that coming).
The hop-infused sake is actually based on a traditional method used in the Tohoku region many years ago known as hanamoto. This method was used in domestic production of sake and involved using hops early in the fermentation stage as a natural preservative to prevent spoiling. However this method all but disappeared once homemade doburoku brewing was outlawed. There is currently no brewery in Japan using the hanamoto method and Haccoba hopes to recreate the tradition.
Source - Medium | PR Times
JG: Even if it is not legally sake, I can’t wait to hop on down to the local liquor store and give this a try when it becomes available.
Hanamoto 花酛
Industry Stirrings...
Aichi- Aichi Prefecture Brewers Association and radio station, ZIP-FM, have collaborated on a project specially for International Sake Day. With the cooperation of 25 breweries from the region, a collaborative sake, Akizake Zoroe has been released. Each participating kura brewed its own Akizake for the project and then labeled it with the shared Akizake Zoroe label. Sets were available in randomly selected three, six, twelve bottle sets as well as a full twenty five-bottle set. This is the first time the Aichi Brewers Association has worked together on such a project. Unfortunately (although fortunately for the breweries), the sets have all been completely sold out!
In past years, ZIP-FM has held an Akizake festival on October 1 to commemorate Sake Day, but this year opted to organize the special release rather than attempt to hold a festival in the current climate.
The participating breweries were:
相生ユニビオAioi Unibio, 青木酒造 Aoki Shuzō, 浦野酒造 Urano Shuzō, 神杉酒, Kamisugi Shuzō, 神の井酒造Kaminoi Shuzō, 甘強酒造 Kankyō Shuzō, 金虎酒造 Kintora Shuzō, 勲碧酒造 Kunpeki Shuzō, 澤田酒造 Sawada Shuzō, 柴田酒造場 Shibata Shuzōjō, 関谷醸造 Sekiya Jōzō, 東春酒造 Toshun Shuzō, 内藤醸造Naito Jōzō, 中埜酒造Nakamori Shuzō, 永井酒造場 Nagai Shuzōjō, 原田酒造場 Harada Shuzōjō , 丸石醸造 Maruishi Jōzō , 丸一酒造Maruichi Shuzō, 盛田Morita, 盛田金しゃち酒造Morita Kinshachi Shuzō, 山崎 Yamazaki, 山田酒造 Yamada Shuzō, 山忠本家酒造 Yamachu Honke Shuzō, 山盛酒造 Yamamori Shuzō, 渡辺酒造 Watanabe Shuzō
Source - Jiji
Kuramoto Introduction- Nanbu Bijin
Welcome to a new addition to Sake Industry News, the Kuramoto Introduction. This will replace the Kura Profile section that was part of SIN until now. While it might be easy to assume that it’s just “six of one, half dozen of another,” in truth we hope this section will give a more well-rounded introduction of each brewery we cover, including history, the brewery, tōji, the basic style of the brand(s) they produce, and a bit of color as well. The goal of all this is to make you want to try their sake, once you have a feel for the place!
We will bounce around Japan with this, introducing well-known brewers and lesser known brewers, big and small, and what other significant variations there might be. We hope you enjoy this enhanced section of our newsletter. Be sure to let us know!
We will begin with Nanbu Bijin Shuzō of Iwate Prefecture, the brewers of Nanbu Bijin sake. The company has been in existence since 1902, and is headed by Mr. Kosuke Kuji, the fifth generation of his family to run what is now the eponymous Nanbu Bijin Shuzō.
In truth, we had interviewed Kuji-san at the end of last brewing season. However, our publishing schedule became a bit backed up, and we never got around to putting that interview in the newsletter. Since it seemed incongruous to publish something about last season as we are just embarking on a new one, we decided to take this opportunity to shift our content a bit. This Kuramoto Introduction section of SIN will take form and shape as time goes on, but for the first shot, Kuji-san is a great choice.
The Region
The brewery is located in the city of Ninohe in the northern part of Iwate, pretty close to Aomori Prefecture. The whole area was long ago under the jurisdiction of a family named Nanbu, and in fact that is the former name of Iwate Prefecture. Also, the (arguably) most significant toji guild in Japan, the Nanbu Tōji, are from here and take the old name of the region. So, yes, Nanbu Bijin is brewed by a Nanbu Tōji in the land originally known as Nanbu.
The Kura
The kura building itself is 160 years old, and was in fact owned by another family and used for making miso when the Kuji family bought it in 1902. It has a typically sprawling layout, with some special qualities being the well from which the water is drawn being just inside the entrance. But their success of late has meant they have outgrown the brewery, and cannot make any more sake in it.
So they built and opened a second brewery a short drive away in a neighborhood called Basenkyo. The amazing thing about that was that it was the first new license granted by the local tax authorities in 30 years.
The Owner
Kosuke Kuji is the fifth generation president of Nanbu Bijin Shuzō. He’s bursting with energy, light-heartedness, positivity, and he talks a mile a minute! Like many of his brewery-owner colleagues of their generation, he graduated from Tokyo Agricultural University, and is very tech savvy. You can meet him and learn more about him by watching the movie, “Kampai: for the Love of Sake.”
Tōji
The current tōji at the main brewery is Junji Matsumori of the Nanbu Guild. He took over from Hajime Yamaguchi, one of the most famous tōji of his time, who had been there since 1951. Matsumori Tōji has already established his prowess as a brewer, having won six consecutive gold medals in “the nationals.” That’s no mean feat.
Water, Rice, Yeast
Nanbu Bijin is fairly isolated, with the closest brewery being an hour away, and the water source is different from the others in the region. The well itself is quite shallow, like ten meters, and the water it provides is a bit on the hard side in terms of mineral content, at least compared to most sake breweries in the area. This leads to a fairly vigorous and fast fermentation. But it is incredibly pure, and sees no filtration at all before use.
Most of their rice (80 percent) is grown in the prefecture, with just a bit of Yamada Nishiki, Omachi and Aiyama – all rice grown in western Japan - for a few of their products. They use a wide range of yeasts, and in fact lean heavily toward the more aromatic strains perhaps more than average.
Production
The company brews about 3500 “koku” yearly, which (at 180 liters per koku) is about 630 kiloliters. This has grown about 30 percent over the 20 years or so, in an industry where consumption overall has contracted significantly across the same time period.
The sake is all handmade, with almost no machines involved and is split across two brewing facilities. Recent technical developments include pasteurizing all their sake in-bottle (as opposed to before bottling), flash-cooling the bottles after that, and then storing all their sake at -5C, not just the namazake.
“The differences are huge,” he emphasizes, referring to storing at -5C versus +15C, as most do.
The Sake
Nanbu Bijin sake has plenty of consistency running through the product line of 80 or so products (including seasonal products). When asked to describe his sake, Kuji-san replied, “Abstractly speaking, it’s light-hearted sake that makes one smile. More concretely, it’s fresh, fruity, and juicy, with a quick finish.”
Indeed, for the most part, it is youthful, light and quaffable. It represents the Tohoku (the northern region of Japan) style very well. Most of it is only matured a few months, which contributes to that style. With the exception of one or two tanks of kimoto made specially by Kuji-san’s younger brother, they make no yamahai or kimoto as it does not fit in with their style.
Furthermore, Nanbu Bijin sake is the kind of sake that does very well in contests. From the Japan National New Sake Competition to IWC competitions and others, they are a well-decorated company.
Nanbu Bijin also makes a few special products. They were the second brewery to make a certified Kosher product, and the first company to make a certified Vegan sake – which all of their products are. Once other brewers realized how easy it is, since sake is so close to being Vegan anyway, many other breweries followed suit. They also make a lot of nihonshu-based umeshu (plum sake), and while not legally sake it is very enjoyable.
Why in the world would a brewer want to make Kosher sake, and Vegan sake? Kuji-san explains, “Most of the people that enjoy sake overseas have some connection to Japan already. I want to help sake be enjoyed by people outside of that group. And one of the walls to bring down was religious restriction. By having a certified Kosher product, that is no longer a problem.”
Kosher came first, after which someone in the US asked why he doesn’t make a Vegan product as well. This got him thinking, and he followed through and made it happen.
“And now,” he continued, “one dietary restriction barrier to enjoying sake has been removed as well!”
COVID Effects
As they are primarily a premium sake producer, they were initially hit hard by COVID. Shipments from the brewery dropped 20 percent in April and May. They have, however, slowly recovered to close to normal. Exports too dropped hugely, but exports to Asian countries have returned. For other places like the US and Europe, the recovery has been much slower.
Other Notes
Kuji-san expends a lot of effort on online events and promotion, much of it good and entertaining fun, together with other brewery owners. He notes that, “Look, over the centuries our industry has been through many things, other pandemics – and worse. And we have survived. If we just grumble, nothing will happen. We need to show the sake-loving world that we are energetic and enthusiastic in spite of it all.”
The company exports about 20 percent of their production to countries all over the world.
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Hello SIN Readers
Thanks to everyone who joined our Instagram Live feed with John earlier today (or last night - depending on where you are in the world).
For those of you who were sleeping (EU and UK) or anyone that missed it, you can listen above (press the big play button, it will take you to the website and you can listen there).
It will also be on our Instagram Stories for the next 24 hours or so - you can head on over to our Instagram to check it out. https://www.instagram.com/sakeindustrynews/
There was a question in the live feed about Genkei and Henpei milling - John discussed this in our last issue in his technical article at the bottom of the page - you can access that issue here (free for everyone).
We will probably be doing another Instagram Live or something similar in the near future, but in the meantime we are hard at work on Issue #15 which will be out for paid subscribers on May 1st.
Kampai and take care …
The Sake Industry News Team
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Lots of good stuff in this issue - New GI location in Japan, Hiroshima and Burgundy, Hanaizumi 100yrs - Henpei vs Genkei, and loads more. Also a new Audio version. This issue is free so share it with your friends. Enjoy #sake #sakenews
This is a public episode. Get access to private episodes at sakeindustrynews.substack.com/subscribe