Un-Sprained: Recent Episodes
Dr. Lisa Brin
A climbing injury podcast l Accident guidance, self-care tips, and step-by-step recommendations to help you get through the toughest aches and pains. Join Dr. Lisa Erikson-Brin DC CCAP for injury guidance, training plan modifications and changes you NEED to put into your home-care for success. Dr. Lisa is the author of Climbing Injuries Solved, past USAClimbing medical, and writer for Climbing Magazine. Brought to you by climbinginjuriesolved.com. E-visits available.
It's the last episode of the season! Let's take what we have learned each episode and put it together into a plan for success. This Episode: -We hit up the 3 MUST Haves PRIOR to your return -What "released" for climbing means -How to know if you are pushing it -Recommended returns for several climber types -What to watch out for -What you should expect and plan for!! AND MORE. Join me for this final episode from Season 1, regardless of if you are a newbie or have listened all season and worked right along with me to get your training and prevention dialed. This is a MUST LISTEN. I hope you share this if you think it holds value.
I'm looking forward to hearing what you think!
Reach out for help, an e-visit or to ensure you have it right. drlisabrindc@gmail.com
Wondering what your numbness is all about? Today we delve into blunt injuries, nerve trauma, and those nerve symptoms that come from upstream (think elbow, shoulder or neck).
Topics Hit:
Finger Compression Injuries Blunt "Wacks" on the rock Numbness from swelling vs. nerve damage Common causes of numb fingers in climbers Thoracic Outlet Syndrome in Climbers (TOS) Stretches and homecare for TOS Shoulder vs. Neck related finger numbness When to consult a doc about your numbness When numbness becomes permanent Maintenance vs Management of Numbness Scenarios Patient examples (which have healed) Suggested homework for each scenario
This is the initial discussion of numbness and where it might be stemming from. You MIGHT NEED A DOC to look over your case to ensure you aren't going to have a permanent situation. We hit up how often and how long you should expect to be feeling these symptoms and that they should be getting better, less frequent and less symptomatic with use.
When in doubt, pack it up and see a provider. Did I mention I have a FREE handout for mobility and unloading of neck pain and Thoracic Outlet Syndrome (the most common cause of finger numbness in climbers at my clinic). Check out these FREE exercises and get an example of a guided rehab program with one click. CLIMBINGINGJURIESSOLVED.COM/32
Worried about finger fractures? Join me for a deep dive into bony remodeling, why you shouldn't climb hard 3-4 weeks after a big event, and why you are more likely to have a finger fracture if you train hard every day vs. adding in periodization.
We hit up current research, adaption, genetics, and Vitamin D. Join me for a MUST listen podcast ;-)
Calling all questions, shoot me a quick audio clip and send it to drlisabrindc@gmail.com for a chance to be featured on an upcoming next episode!
Did you get covid? Are you coming back to climbing and wondering how best to support your body with your rehab and self-care? Today's mini special (14 minutes!!) is focused on my personal experience with covid, what to understand about training and rehab while recovery or with long covid, and the liver/kidney support (and prevention) that you need to be aware of. We discuss:
Viral hepatitis, liver and kidney stresses Alcohol, water and caffeine consumption during/post covid What NSAIDS are broken down by the liver and kidneys Current support and recommendations that are dietary Burning legs, fatigue or pumped out arms that are new Other factors to be aware of to recover from your injury post covid.
I hope you join me if you are currently recovering from covid, have long covid, or want to follow along with what I am currently dealing with.
Sending a High-5 your way!!
Dr. Lisa
book a visit or learn more at climbinginjuriessolved.com
Do you have a stiff tight finger that is possibly bulbous or just ugly as all get out?! This week of Un-Sprained we focus on what is happening beneath the skin to give you a birds eye view of the problem (and the solution). On this episode I offer 3 active steps that you can use to mobilize and add flexibility to an old healed rigid finger. I also ensure you have many tricks for a new hot (but stiff) finger that doesn't qualify for aggressive mobility self-care. We hit up the big details to save you time and add a quicker return to your favorite sport.
Join me to bump up your self-care strategy, with some basic finger joint anatomy, and easy to learn scar tissue and injury healing understandings. Regardless of where you are on your prevention or healing pathway, join me to ensure that your finger makes progress in the right direction.
We also hit up:
Finger capsule injuries What needs stretched what needs left alone Why a new hot puffy finger feels stiff Why an old healed injury feels stiff What scar tissue mobility work will help What to observe and what to avoid Stiffness due to physiological fluid Research on "adhesions" in the hand And much more!
Regardless of if you are wanting to learn about new or healed old injuries, this is a must listen episode with a TON to learn. This pairs NICELY with my FREE material on my website at climbinginjuriessolved.com/warning-signs so you make sure you aren't hurting yourself. Also, check out my video on how to use a Wave tool:(https://youtu.be/ZNz9cWjCUtc)
Are you applying too much work, too much effort into your body with lackluster results? Perhaps you are doing TOO MUCH? Is this a question you have asked yourself? I know I have. This week we discuss the blunders of being your own medical team and what you can do to be better, smarter (and to spend less time) working on yourself. The goal is to apply less to get more. I hope you like it!
Topics discussed today include:
Hangboarding for injured fingers and hands (NOT) Mistakes with a foam roller Mistakes commonly made with an acupressure ring Common mistakes with a wave tool (guasha, graston, arete tool) Putting too much time in for lesser results How to apply the foam roller theorys all over the body What are we accomplishing with a "scraper tool" What is an adhesion, what does it look like? What scar tissue is helpful, what holds us back? And much more.
Join me for this episode in which I hand you the information in bite sized pieces so you can avoid the mistakes and have a GREAT season. Learn more at climbinginjuriessolved.com or in my articles at climbing.com
I don’t know about you, but often I find myself struggling between trying to have the right weight to strength ratio, and the side effects that come with that, fatigue, slow healing, increased stress, anxiety? Does this sound like you? If you are nodding your head, felt yourself take a deep breath in, or even felt a wave of teariness, this episode is for you.
Often climbers fall into the trap of trying to lose weight but keep that strength (or even gain MORE strength) while at the same time pushing harder and harder. Symptoms might appear, Physically, emotionally, or hormonally that can be a sign that you are training, or climbing, too hard. Especially for your level of nutrient intake. And we call this REDS- which we will get to later.
So perhaps as a community, as training buddies, we could get smarter, perhaps even more curious about how our bodies work and WHAT exactly, we put into our bodies to allow us to be better all around. The goal is to have that perfect nutrient mix, while supporting our bodies as they respond to the stess and the load that we apply to them.
I’ve invited a guest on for today, a special brilliant person who I think can help answer these questions (and a whole lot more). I’d like to welcome Marisa Michael, a registered dietary nutritionist and a board certified specialist in sports dietetics (pronounced di-uh-teh-tuhks).
When she’s not educating, she’s been known to be a super mom to a bunch of competitive youth climbers. So today, we catch up with Marissa to ask all the questions we are dying to know especially as they relate to recovery healing and injury prevention.
Today we discuss fascinating topics including:
Gatorade personalized sweat tests Losing weight to climb strong How fractures can occur from diet mistakes The RED-S syndrome The female and male athlete triad long term effects How to bust out of body dysmorphia and REDS-S Does eating fat make you fat? Protein intake for the send, food for indoor vs competition climbing And MUCH much more!
Join us for a MUST LISTEN podcast with the author of Nutrition for Climbers, a researcher, SuperMom and positive problem solver. Listen to learn why and what you can do to better your health by eating healthy foods and lots of them. Regardless of your weight goals. This is the first guest on the show, we would LOVE to know what you think!!! Leave a comment!! It appears our two worlds overlap greatly!
It’s not every day that you pull a muscle, but when you do, WHAT should you do about it? My friend, if your answer is STRETCHING, you are way behind on the self-care scene and I am here to help.
So we call the post injury "the beginning",or what your doctor calls the acute phase. We need to understand this and get this correct the moment we have an injury. Because the beginning is the most important thing to get right. Especially, when we are talking muscle tears. In today's podcast we hit up:
What are the signs and symptoms of a tear? What are the common causes of a tear? What should I do immediately when I get hurt? Where does rehab come in to recovery? Why do tears tend to reoccur? What can I do to keep from being reinjured?!
We take a page out of a few different research studies to address what you can do differently with the latest sports medicine techniques to ensure you heal properly. This time and every time.
Get 20% off your nutritional support with wellevate.me/lisa-brin. Simply create an account and go shopping to replace any current vitamins with better brands, better contents, and cheaper pricing than you can get at your home clinic.
And my share contest is up and running for a goodie-bag to the person who I think is sharing the best. Get a forearm roller, finger-splint, hand putty and more to ensure you are rehabbing at your best. Share and tag me @theclimbingdoc to be entered. Ends at the end of this summer!
Available bimonthly until the fall (and then hopefully weekly again!!)
XX,
Dr. Lisa @theclimbingdoc
Today we jump in to the nasty topic of feet. Or those feet which have been ruined by climbing shoes, cramped quarters, and pulling hard. I'm excited to cover a new Spanish research study on foot pain in climbers (April 2022)and what the takeaway is for self-care, home-care and prevention.
Topics on Today's Episode:
Bunions Halux Valgus Bursitis Claw toe deformity Age vs. abuse And much more
Today I hit up these topics as well as give you info on an upcoming episode with Marissa, a climbing specific nutritionist (Nutrition for Climbing, 2020).
Don't forget to grab my CANDO HandWeb deal, I'm selling out of all stock, when its gone, its GONE!! Questions?! Email me at drlisabrindc@gmail.com
So you’ve done everything and your injury is still rearing it’s ugly head. It’s time to get down and nasty… with updating your wheelhouse ….to ensure you not only heal… but thrive. Joi me for todays podcast to hit up the big 3 reasons why your injury is not healing, and what you can do instead. that lasts.
Check out Unsprained Episode 10- 3 Simple Tricks To Implement Now To Boost Your Volume for Simple effective tricks that you can implement NOW to help craft your comeback..
So for the big 3 reasons why your injury is not healing:
We discuss strength training around and at an injury site. Incorrect applications of strength training. Time off for proper recovery When do we stop healing as fast (age) human growth hormone, Knowing how long it takes our bodies to heal. High stress, not enough sleep, horrible diets, Overcoming other physical issues that take energy and the bodies focus to heal. Too much load outside of climbing . Other daily activities also using your hands.
Ergonomics at work and injury prevention/healing. Developing a different tissue that has a better base health.
I love to give supporting materials, so if you love checklists, pop onto my website to go through a list of things you can do to make yourself better. climbinginjuriessolved.com
If you liked this episode, check out Episode 16, perfect warmups. I'd love a like or a share and don't forget to grab your bonus material on my website, climbinginjuriessolved.com See you next week, same great time same great place! Questions, reach out at drlisabrindc@gmail.com
Today we hit up the shoulder. There is SO much to cover in terms of pain and rehab, but today, I hit my 5 exercises to help YOU become injury free. We hit up theraband exercises specifically for the scapula (the shoulder blade) and discuss WHY you should be pulling with it instead of your fingers. Join me for exercises that mimic climbing as much as possible for aretes, clipping that draw, reaching to that next hold, climbing overhangs, and much more.
Check out my website for free resources at climbinginjuriessolved.com/learn-with-lisa for building some momentum in your climbing. All the exercises will soon be up at climbinginjuriessolved.com/shoulder
I'm honored you listened today! Leave me a like or share with a friend to help spread the good vibes?!
Have a finger that you feel is on the cusp of injury? Debating whether your finger is truly injured or just a result of overtraining? Often we climb to the strength of our shoulders and our minds, but not our fingers. Overuse injuries of the finger can often be noticed too late in our sport, leading to unwanted time off.
Welcome to Episode 22 of UnSprained, a must-listen for five common symptoms to assist in assessment of if your finger is injured, or if you are just overtraining. I not only give you my 5 big symptoms, but guidance with what I'd recommend for each with an action plan for you to claw your way back to health. I'm here with guidance that should give you the self esteem and the building blocks to make your year a great one. Ok, for the first symptom, which can be a bit tricky...
1: Pain with Load
Pain is a pretty great indicator. Mainly, this “check engine light” is one that your body uses over and over to tell you not to use an injury, and also a PRE injury. Essentially, your body is trying to protect your finger. You can have stabbing pain, sharp pain, a glimmer of pain (its here and then its gone) or a momentary strange symptom that never appears again. Many of you have had quick pains that were never felt again, so pain is the most common, but the most useless indicator of if you are truly injured. Now I'm talking momentary pain. Pain associated with a true injury (an impact, a jarring force, a fall where a finger gets stuck in a pocket or a crack is often a quick indictor that yes, you are injured… but it isn’t the most specific indicator of a big injury. So don’t let pain be the first and foremost indicator you listen to. I've seen many injuries that are BIG that have NO pain associated with them. And that’s scary. Myself, I’ve had 7+ fractures, many of which feel like a quick bee sting, and then squishy, or increasingly painful. So let the increase or the ramping up of symptoms also be important, (perhaps more than just a sharp pain itself).
As climbers we have a ton of pain right, mainly on the pads of our fingers, and as we get blisters and lose skin. Its part of the game.
Still on the #1 symptom of pain, now we know it can be a mirage, not really telling us the true story, or the full story. so lets get more into that…
Listen every week, same great time same great place. Join me at climbinginjuriessolved.com for free downloads, step by step plans, and skills to get you climbing again.
If you like this podcast, will you share it?! Thanks!!
In a sport that is exploding such as rock climbing, chances are you are either a newbie, or you are climbing next to one at the gym or crag. This episode is focused on what I wish I knew as a newbie, and as guidance for those who are currently supporting or cheering on a new climber.
We are only as strong as our weakest link. And a new climber needs to understand their skills, and their level of learning far surpass their grade. Join along as we hit the following hard topics:
What should newbies be focusing on for training? How quickly should a new climber progress through the grades? What should you be recommending for a new climber to focus on? What skill sets are important for a new climber? What tools should a new climber buy (or borrow) to begin learning important self-care techniques? Why chasing grades can be dangerous and a set-back Why working on your weaknesses is the best (and hardest) goal Why core matters more than finger strength And more!
Join me for my big 5 recommendations that I WISH someone had TOLD ME and my action plan for building any newbie (even yourself) up with a big beautiful base.
We are an injured, unhealed sport, join me for a discussion and comparison with football, track and field (sprinting) and tennis.
I'd rather see you at the crag or the gym than in my clinic. Share this episode with your injured or newbie friends and please add any recommendations YOU wish YOU had been given when you were new ;-)
See you next week, same great time, same great place!!
XX,
Dr Lisa
Do you suffer from pain or stiffness in the back of the hand and fingers? Join Dr. Lisa for Episode 21 of a current patient, symptoms and care, and guidance for this strange tension based syndrome that (spoiler alert) ends with great results. Climbers are predisposed to adhesions, or scar tissue that adheres the skin to the gliding structures beneath the skin (think tendon, fascia and muscle). In today's episode (a MINI because I am on vacation Climbing in Moab!), we hit up many topics that can clear up the stiffest of hands.
In Today's Episode:
Learn what adhesions are Learn why adhesions form How are climbers predisposed Research on hand adhesions (and pain) Test out a self-care "tester" session Learn guided recommendations (how much, how often, with what) Graston, Guasha, Wavetool, and Armaid discussed And more!
I'm excited to give you concrete guidance in which the test is also the treatment. If you test this out, and notice great results, it is your recommended homework.
Happy Spring Break. Make sure to LIKE this episode if you enjoyed it and please share it with a friend if you think it might help them! We are stronger as a team! Also, check out my latest youtube video (@thelcimbingdoc) on how to use the WaveTools Therapy Arete on this area for best results. 30 seconds, once a week, thats seriously all it takes for many symptoms to go away (IF it is adhesion/scar tissue related). Test this out and see if it helps!
See you next week. same great time, same great place!
XX,
Dr. Lisa
Do you have stiff, painful finger or hand joints and fear that you have arthritis? Perhaps your family all has arthritis and you are terrified you are wearing out your hands faster than normal? Welcome to episode 20 of Un-Sprained. This week, we are delving into arthritis, what is it, how to heal from it, and what you can do to evaluate what side of this coin you are on.
This week we discuss:
The hallmarks of arthritis What predisposes you to arthritis What are the symptoms of arthritis How to distinguish if you have it (or are overtraining) Recommendations to make your joints last
AND MORE!! If you are overtraining or are worried about having arthritis, this is the episode for you. We discuss the HOW, WHAT and WHY of care, diagnosis, and training to ensure you get the most out of your body (for the long run). Sent with love,
XX,
Dr. Lisa
Are you tired of always feeling like you are acquiring injuries and not actually healing from them?! Perhaps you have regions of scar tissue that feel adhered, tight or rigid and you wish you could just get rid of them?
I've felt that way too! Stick with me friend, if you said yes to any of the above, this episode is just for you!
Today I selected my favorite home based self-care tool, the Arete tool (by WaveTools therapy) and I discuss the nitty gritty of the HOW, WHY and WHAT of using it and like tools (graston, guasha, etc). I reached out to them and asked them if they'd give my favorite peeps a discount on one and they said YES! Check out the discount code at the bottom of the show notes below. Hurray!! Its so useful, affordable and did I say quality?! These tools used to cost thousands when I was in school and now you can get them for the cost of a PT visit. Amazing. So today we jump in to how much time you need to spend, how you apply the care, and what you are hoping to accomplish to make a change.
We also hit up answers to questions like:
What regions do I use this on? How do I know where to work? What does the application look like? What are we trying to achieve with use? What people do NOT need to use this tool? What tissues are more prone to needing this care? What areas are contraindicated for use? And much more!
(And If I don't hit your question, just ASK my friend!!)
Join me for a MUST listen podcast on what Avy (my one year old) is climbing, and also to hand you actionable step-by-step processes to begin implementing this new tool to make a HUGE long lasting change for the better. (Don't forget, you heal nicely IN BETWEEN applications, so don't overapply). As your body remolds itself from your work, you are going to notice big changes and flexibility that stays.
Regions that would benefit from this therapy include:
Back of the hand Forearm (top and bottom) Pec Region (chest into the deltoid) Calf attachments of muscles to tendons Your Palm (base of the thumb and between each finger) And much more!
Time/Duration: For those in 30 seconds max per region, once or twice per week letting the TOOL tell you where to work next by feeling its vibration over scar tissue or "grabbing" or "stopping" of its glide as it gets hung up on, you know it. Scar tissue.
I can't wait to share this sports medicine secret with you using a tool that I LOVE LOVE LOVE that is affordable and easy to use. WaveToolstherapy has given my clients a special discount offer if they love this tool and want to try it out, the code is #DrLisa10 and you can redeem it on their website wavetoolstherapy.com
See you next time at the same great time, same great place! And make sure to like this if you enjoyed it!! Sharing it with a friend in need is also a great idea! (It helps me out to also spread the word about health and self-care!). Happy Spring!!
XX
Dr. Lisa
We all love hang boarding but for many, it causes disaster in already injured and unhappy fingers. Many of you have asked about training plans that specifically require hangboarding on an injured finger or hand. And this my friend, is the scientific and medically backed podcast of WHY you SHOULDN'T. I didn't know either until I spoke specifically with the best hand docs in the nation and looked at films with them to learn what this does to our hands. And it totally does something we DON'T want with the tiny advantages that in my mind, don't outweigh the downsides of rapid degeneration and damage that is...irreparable. So learn with me so you have the knowledge to make your own decisions. Because sometimes we have to make these decisions, and it's worth it. And sometimes, hang boarding just is a big risk. We are all at a different place, and that is oK! So to answer your question, "Should I modify my hang boarding or stop while I heal?!" Not to worry my friend, we hit this and more on today's episode 18 of Un-Sprained.
Join me on today's episode to learn WHY you shouldn't hang board on a finger injury as I give you better options instead. Hang-boarding is often the final step in speeding you through the phases of tendon degeneration, known as tendonosis.
Listen today for my 3 BIG hitters, and my 3 big recommendations to hit up in your action plan.
Today we hit up:
Scar tissue Pain sensors Bad repair jobs Loading a healing tissue, and what it does The Phases of Tendonosis What pain means Learned bad habits your body acquires in loading through pain Action plan guidance for what you can implement today And much more!
Join me for this MUST listen episode to learn WHY your climbing coach might be wrong and what you can do about it today. I make sure to give you Action Steps for your self-care and your self-observation that will change your outcome BIG TIME.
Finally become injury free and join me to learn these 3 big reasons WHY you should wait until that injury heals. I respect your coach, I just want to give you tools and teachings of tendon healing principles that they might not know. Let's all learn together with information that is easy to understand and implement today. I ALSO give you 3 big tips of what you should be doing instead.
If you like today's episode, you will also like episode 4: Giving the Bird Some Attention, Episode 9- Crafting your action list for pulley ruptures, and my favorite episode: Time Off, 3 Steps to correctly unload your injury.
See you soon!
Same great time same great place next week!
XX,
Dr. Lisa
Today on Un-Sprained we delve into your biggest question, how do I avoid heel hook injuries, (and if I'm healed from them, how do I keep them from coming back). Not only do I give you a FREE download to my favorite 6 exercises, with a built in training plan that includes videos, exercise in verbal and written formats, but we hit all the bases of the WHAT, WHY, and HOW. Work backwards with me to plan out your year and problem spot your scariest moves. From here I give you an action plan with step-by-step guidance on how to beef up that knee, hip and back of the knee to avoid heel-hook specific injuries.
We focus on WHY these exercise work, what we are trying to accomplish, and the 3 things I wish I knew to keep heel hook knee injuries and heel hook hamstring injuries at bay way back when.
Today we hit up:
- Climbing Specific Research
- Who needs surgery and why
- Why conservative care works
- What heel hook exercises look like
- Why climbing rehab needs to be specific
- Why climbing isn't a good warmup for heel hooks
- And more!
I also have a downloadable present JUST for you at climbinginjuriessolved.com/free
Searching out your perfect warm-up? I've got your back friend!
Your warmup is your ritual, a way of preparing your body for what is coming next and to tell it "it's time to perform!!"
Dialing in your warm-up doesn't have to be difficult!
In this episode, I hand you a link to my favorite 14 exercises in PDF (and video ) for FREE (see below) and I cover WHY I think each is helpful. Don't worry, I gave a few extras in case you don't have the tools or a tree nearby to string your suspension system.) I also hit up my own warm-up tricks when I am waiting for my climbing partner. Who. Is. Always. Late. (to my benefit!!)
So for the tools, I use your bodyweight, some small tools, and some nylon webbing (that you sew into straps). Or buy a TRX like setup that you can wrap over a tree branch, or hang from the first bolt.
Keep it affordable, use it like mad!
This weeks episode covers the stages of your warm-up that will help the MOST in addition to making your warmup as climbing-specific as possible. Think shoulders, hands and core. For this I love beginning with core (hips, legs and shoulders) and jumping in to finger specific warmups. Did I mention I'm having a workshop coming up ($55) on using various tools for warm-up, finger specific recruitment and stability drills. Check it out at climbinginjuriessolved.com/hand-stability-spotlight
This week we hit:
What is Adam Ondra doing for his warm-ups? Why hangboard isn't a good warm-up What sports medicine research says about warmups? Why pulley injuries don't necessarily occur from bad warmups Tried and true exercises from my college coach What we are trying to gain from our efforts Where easy climbing comes in And more!
See you next week, same great time, same great place!
Get access to my FREE 14 favorite warmup exercises through climbinginjuriessolved.com/warmup
I'm so excited, for this tutorial podcast episode, today we focus on rice buckets! On today's episode We cover the benefits and drawbacks of using a rice bucket compared to other forms of physiotherapy (such as rubber bands, weights, hang boards, and all the other options out there). You need to know your options!!
Most people that use a rice bucket use it for strength, speed or a warmup. Ricebuckets are easy to make, affordable, and can then be repurposed for food (gross!!?. We can work your wrist and finger endurance and control and today, we are going to cover tricks for boosting stability & proprioception.
Bonuses of a Ricebucket:
Low Fi way of getting things done. Cost effective. Easy to make. Does not wear out over time. Beneficial for warmups, endurance training & hand stability and coordination. Boosts circulation/ blood flow adaptions And much more!
Listen along and learn about this easy to use tool. Also, to go along with this podcast, please check out my social media for photos and videos on how to use this. I've posted my favorite exercises using the RiceBucket on Instagram/Facebook (@theclimbingdoc) for your review.
These are the basic ones and a good tutorial.
This Podcast hits up:
Perfect warm-ups How to make the exercises harder What our goals are Perfection of motion and shape vs speed or power .How to use it for endurance and building phases So How EXACTLY do I use my Rice bucket?! A weekly guide for reps/sets And much more!!
Example Exercises:
Slow wrist circles to cupped hand wrist circles Full hand open & closes (Curled first, opened up to wide claw shaped) Finger side-spreads (narrow at first, then wider) Claw grabs (full finger open hand grabs to ball clench and back) Finger Kicks Thumb Ws (Towards first finger, then 3rd finger, then 5th finger) Tips only wiggles Wide pinch wiggles Narrow pinch “duck quacks”
I suggest starting every warmup with your hands OUT of the rice, to demo the motions so they are as perfect as you can make them, and then submerge or immerse them into the rice.
I’d love to hear what you think of it, and if you have any special tricks or recommendations for it, I’d love to hear it!
I’m highlighting the rice bucket in my upcoming Spotlight lecture: https://www.climbinginjuriessolved.com/hand-stability-course
Do you suffer from stiff swollen or puffy painful finger joints? This episode is just for you! On this weeks Un-Sprained we delve into the self-care and the training volume and style modifications to help these injuries thrive.
In this week's episode we discuss:
Proper taping for inflammation The why of unloading your joints Dietary changes for inflammation control When to go on an anti-inflammatory diet before a big trip The differences between care for painless stiff vs hot puffy joints Finger mobilizations and self-tests And more!
I hope you join me for this MUST LISTEN podcast based on my most visited article on DIP joint injuries. I can't wait to see how your modifications to your climbing and your self-care make all the difference in your finger health in the long run! If you are also looking for other episodes that will help you with the care and support of these finger joints, Episode 4, giving the bird some attention (thanksgiving edition) and episode 9, Crafting your action list for pulley ruptures might also give you some great new recommendations and action plans to get you going from wherever you are, across that invisible bridge to health!
I'd love to know what you think! And please share if you like this podcast.
See you soon, same place same time next week!
XX,
Dr. Lisa
If you knew that you had a zone that was more likely to be injured, would you want to know about it? And would you want to invest the time and the effort to prevent that injury from occurring, if you could? Hi, I'm Dr. Lisa Brin and today we discuss the biggest 5 cheats in climbing technique and positioning that could cost you your health. Join me as we discuss each, and as we play a fun game to brainstorm how to test and train the cheat out of each region. This fun game begins your journey to decrease your injury risks in each area. Just remember, you learn faster and improve more quickly if it is a game. So keep it fun, and you just might catch yourself doing one of these in the next two weeks in your training, your rehab, or your climbing.
This week on Un-Sprained, we discuss:
Why regional cheats are risky to your health What role fascia plays in connecting our cheat areas to our weak zones. Why you testing and treating the area with the SAME TEST is a good thing What the One-Joint Rule is for the low back and its safety. Why these cheats teach you something about your training plan or your approach to climbing (and your re-evaluations in real time) Pain caused by cheats in the shoulder, neck, low back and wrist/hand and more.
All on this week's episode of Un-Sprained. If you LIKE my podcast, please click like and share it with a friend to help spread the word about self-care, prevention and climbing with health.
See you next time at the same great place same time, wherever you get your podcasts! And if you have an idea or a question, shoot it over or leave it as a comment so I can fill you in on an upcoming episode!
This week on Un-Sprained we are going to cover the how, why and when of pulley injuries. Regardless of if you are a new climber, a veteran climber or a coach, join me for research on 47 Swiss climbers who sustained a pulley injury, their climbing hold/hand statistics and what it means for understanding YOUR climbing risks.
Today we cover warmup-s and their affect on pulley injuries, hold type (crimp, narrow edges, pockets, underclings, pinches, openhands) and the injury risks of each. We also cover static holds (hangboard) as well as dynamic motions in regards to injury research.
In today's episode we cover:
Bowstringing and what it means Proper warmups and why they matter What a torn pulley means mechanically How long you should expect yours to take to heal. Choosing your climbs to align with your goals Long term maintenance of old angry pulleys
Join me for this discussion and I hope you let me know what you think!
Have a nasty elbow issue that you've tried EVERYTHING for and it just won't heal? Or are you looking to solve a new injury that just popped up and you want to nip it before it gets bad? You are in luck my friend!
This week we delve into the BIG 3, and what you can do about them. We hit up action-plans for each of the three with step-by-step recommendations for HOW to unravel a tight forearm and how it differs totally from unraveling a tight tricep (which is 10% of all "lateral epicondylitis" or "tennis elbow" clients).
In this podcast, I get you putting hands on your very own elbow to evaluate where the pain is, what that means, and what you can do to begin implementing these strategies TODAY. We hit up proper time off and I promised a FREE download to evaluate your proper time off, a chapter of my upcoming book Return to Climbing. I hope you enjoy it and give me feedback on what you think!!
In today's Episode 11, we hit up the following important highlights:
What to do about forearm contracture, tightness and pain.
If you feel that PUMP that keeps lasting.
Elbow pain near and around the bony knob.
Pain above and behind the elbow joint itself.
The where/why/how of elbow straps and what they do.
What tools you should get and how much you can spend.
Where to start with application (how much and when).
How to do Time off. What components of it do you actually need?
How to know if you are improving from your "what hurts' lists
And more.
I hope you join me for this episode and every episode that drops at the same great time, same great place. In this episode we discuss two different affordable elbow straps the "McDavid 489" ($15) and the "DonJoy Web Tech" ($24). Both work great but heed this warning, DON'T put them over the SITE of pain, instead go distal. We go into detail on the HOW and the WHY in this episode. Also, get my list of freebies today on my website at: Climbinginjuriesolved.com/free-resources.
See you next week, same great time, same great place! And if you like this podcast, would you kindly share it?
Sharing is caring ;-)
Simple effective tricks that you can implement NOW to help craft your comeback. 2022 has never looked so good. On this episode, I cover the HOW and WHY of my tricks. Climbing SLOWER, with more rest between climbs, and with my stolen but awesome TAP TAP test that I learned watching WorldCup climbers from the med tent. Lets take a DEEP DIVE into these three tricks that you can get started on right away to ensure your gym time isn't wasted as you bring in the new year WITHOUT a new injury.
In this episode we cover:
Tendon Abuse vs Positive Use Goals for a new climber to work on while ascending that wall Why you shouldn't be grunting, puffing or huffing your first month back Why FEELING time isn't always so effective How to spend your time between climbs What tapping is all about and the 3 reasons it works Neurologically what is happening to your muscles as you return And much more!!
Join me for a brief deep dive of your return to help you make your 2022 shine. Regardless of if you are a newbie, a veteran or a perpetually injured climber, theres always something to discuss and to make better the next time around!
Looking for an action plan to help you heal from your climbing injury? You are in the right place friend, I'm here to guide you step by step through pulley injuries, treatment strategies you can implement NOW, and I lay out your overall return to climbing plan.
On this podcast episode we discuss the nitty-gritty of:
Taping strategies How much time off to take What is a bad pulley injury How you can climb open hand vs crimping while healing (later stages) Research on pulley recovery, intervention and management Your self-care plan adjustments Any return to climbing modifications as you come back
Consider your hand held. And yes, you might just be thinking about returning to climbing after an injury and worried you might be missing something, or you are currently going through the ups and the downs of taking time off. Rest assured, I've got your back!
And don't forget, my finger injury workshop is TODAY 1/15 at 5pm learn more here at bit.ly/3z6WJVY.
Catch you next time, same great place, same great time!
Dr. Lisa
A discussion of snow, down coats, finger fractures and Meyer & Schoffl's new return to climbing guidelines for youth finger fractures. We get down into the nitty gritty on warm-ups, returning to rock climbing after fracture, and what you should make of your doctors surgery recommendations. See what we're talking about here. https://bit.ly/3pTW7zU Also, have you joined me for my finger spotlight yet? https://bit.ly/339N4li
Feel like your old shoulder just keeps getting aggravated by everything? Have an old labral tear, degeneration, or did something in the past that flares it up? I've got your back friend!
Todays podcast, Episode 7 of Un-Sprained, is focused on my THREE tips for climbing with shoulder instability or damage without all that pain mixed in.
In this episode, we hit HOW to stay out of pain, controlling that shoulder on the wall, and my FAVORITE stability tricks for in the heat of the moment that work.
Check out the episode page on my website https://bit.ly/3z6gA7p for the FREE exercises for scapular stability that accompany this podcast.
Also, if you haven't already, hit up my finger seminar series. https://bit.ly/339N4li
Today, I’m going to walk you through a checklist, of 6 things that you can do today to better your messaging. To your doctor, your therapist, or during a telehealth visit to ensure that your provider hears you loud, and clear. We want to ensure they get all the details they need so they can help YOU to a better recovery from injury. Get my free checklists and doctor-climber communication translator, so that you have a free pdf resource to use when you visit them in their office. Use verbal cues, visual cues and follow my checklist to ensure you are saying all the right things at the right time to streamline your visit and get you all the benefits of your care. Say no to unfulfilling, wasted visits that you get nothing out of.
Here are my big 6 tips, we will call them, strategies we will devise, to ensure that even the slowest, least educated, furthest from being an athlete doctor who obviously doesn’t climb (they have a gut, they have smooth thin hands, they are pale and obviously out of shape). Hey, it takes time to be that good at what you are doing and they have devoted their life to helping you, and others like you, find solutions to your health issues. It might not be a heart issue, but a finger injury is just as important to us, at least emotionally.
Lisa goes cuckoo for Leukotape C for finger pain. We discuss what happens when finger stability taping doesn't work over a joint, say for an A3 pulley, and why we can correct for poor finger performance in climbing with brain training exercises for our fingers using (you guessed it) tape.
Join me for the discussion of the merits and weaknesses of climbers tape, buddy taping for injuries, and the new bonuses we have learned with research! Tape is not only for stability of finger injuries, but for injury control, inflammation, proprioception, retraining motor control, and of course, for looking cool... Or did I get that in the wrong order?
A heads up on my #MarshallFire Fundraiser. Did you decide to join me for my finger lecture yet? https://bit.ly/339N4li
In Episode 5, rehab meets the big 3, Swiss taping, H taping, and X taping. We discuss the needed but overused buddy taping, and why it doesn't fit into your routine for training for climbing.
Did I mention brightly colored finger weights? What's up with that, and more on this weeks episode of Un-Sprained. If you like it. Share it! Now wherever you find your podcasts. Get more info and links from todays podcast with climbinginjuriessolved.com/climbing-tape
A nod to the hardest working finger on our hand, the middle finger. What we can do to help it have a little easier life. And a few self-care rehab pearls to best serve your goals.
Did you make the mistake of thinking you took time off, only to return to climbing and pain returning right away? Perhaps you skipped the whole fall season and BOOM, your finger hurts like you never skipped it? What a huge bummer. And I've got you covered!
Join me this week for my Pro-Hacks to get you back on track.
Let's discuss your recovery strategies to hone in on any mistakes you MIGHT not know you are making. Let's deep dive into your junk drawer (self-care, lifestyle, activities) and use my PAL Method to help you heal. I offer check-lists, step by step processes and support to get you across that invisible bridge to health. Le's skip the possible disastrous you might make WHILE you think you are taking your tIme off.
Coming back injured right away? Not anymore. You've got new skills, and they will just keep growing as you join me in my self-care program. Watch my videos, read my books, and join me with questions to make your recovery smoother and faster.
Still lost? Reach out at climbinginjuriessolved.com for your own personalized session with me someday soon to delve through your recovery plan to fill in holes and restore your faith in your systems. I've got you covered!
Let's thank OUR BODIES this Thanksgiving with this Special Edition Podcast of Un-Sprained discussing why Trevor Smith got skinny, why you need more protein as a climber, why Iron Bis-Glysinate is awesome and of course, 5 things you can do for your body to make sure it performs for you (and doesn't become injured).
Next week we discuss giving your "Bird" more love and how we can keep that middle finger healthier than it might otherwise be. Like this episode? Share it with a friend or give it a like.
Also, check out my freebies and other downloadable at climbinginjuriessolved.com