EMU Intercultural Learning: Recent Episodes
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Preparing graduates to thrive in culturally-diverse contexts with humility, curiosity and respect, pursuing a just and peaceful world.
During our time in Guatemala we have learned a lot about the health care system. We visited several Clinics including Madre Cabrini dispensary, AMI clinic in San Juan Laguna, and Hospitalo Atitlan, and a hospital in Guatemala City. Health care is incredibly hard to access in Guatemala it’s often not affordable so places like the AMI clinic or Madre Cabrini do their best to create affordable options for people in their communities. These clinics offer a wide variety of services including family practice, pediatrics, gynecology, dentistry, and therapy. They also have labs and pharmacies on site to make the experience a little bit easier for people seeking these services.Something I appreciated through everything I learned about these different clinics is that they take a holistic approach to caring for patients which is an idea I am being taught as a nursing student but is something that is often over looked in medicine in the U.S.Now on the flip side something I was appalled to learn through various lectures is that emergency medical services (EMS) can refuse to help patients based on any number of reasons. As an EMS provider myself this was unimaginable to me because in the U.S. unless the scene is unsafe for you to enter you have an obligation to help every patient. These are just a couple of things I have noted in my time in Guatemala learning about the healthcare system. I could keep going but then this post would be too long but I look forward to having conversations about my learning with people when I return home.– Bekah Compagnari
There are some things that make up the experience of being in Guatemala. The amount of light that hits the country, the presence of clouds on most of the mountains, the amount of bugs, the ever present hummingbird and the confirmations that you’re in a volcanic region.– Liberty Powell
This second blog marks our second stage in this 6-week journey. Reflections in this blog post are from our last week in Madrid…and now we are 5 days in on the Camino, which will be in the next blog! We finished our third week of Spanish classes and said goodbye to our host families. This time in the heart of Spain has given us a glimpse into Spanish culture and ways of living. Now, having left Madrid, we begin the ~120 km trek from Tui to Santiago! From back pain to blisters to sicknesses, the Camino brings all the physical trials. Is it worth it for the views we see, the stories we hear, and the people we meet? Only time will tell. ¡Buen Camino!-Emma Hua
During the first half of my intercultural it felt like such a surreal moment. I had always dreamed of studying in Spain since I was a little kid. When the opportunity came, it felt like a full circle moment. As a native speaker, I had some background on Spanish history and language that helped me navigate through this experience. Through my curiosity, I was able to ask questions regarding the life of an estudiante español (Spanish student). Where, I discovered that their education system prepares them through a program called “Bachillerato” a pre-requisite for college. I was fascinated by how much time and preparation it takes to get into college. Which has made me so thankful for being able to study abroad and to learn from my professors through their teaching methods and engagement. Although the course was three weeks long, it became a bit overwhelming to wrap up so quickly. I had gotten used to the routine of waking up early, catching the metro and heading to class. But after this intercultural, it has made me want to pursue Spanish education in the future. I am left with new words and phrases to use in my every day life.
-Victor Acosta
One weekend we went on day trips to Toledo and Segovia. On Saturday we went to Toledo, a mid size city in Castile La Mancha that used to be one of the most influential and largest cities in Spain and its capital before Madrid. We explored its old town mostly autonomously and toured its cathedral. The old town was huge and beautiful, sitting on a large hill with a river mostly encircling it, with the defensive capabilities of the hill being the reason behind its location. The Cathedral was also beautiful, with many altars and tombs for significant figures in its history like prior archbishops and the like. Its layout was rather closed, so you couldn’t see much of the building from any one location, giving it a maze-like feel. Afterwards, we explored a nearby monastery. It is well preserved, and you could easily envision what life would have been like for the people living there. It serves a different purpose today than it used to, but still has an active community! On Sunday we went to Segovia, a small city in Castile and Leon. We started the visit with exploring the castle, which was the inspiration for the castle in Snow White. It’s a big castle, with a surprisingly navigable interior, besides the steep, spiraling staircase to the rooftop. The rooms are decorated to fit their intended purpose, with many original items. It was an excellent experience. Then we had an opportunity to explore the old town for a bit, most of us got burritos near the main plaza and then went off and explored. It’s a beautiful city. Our next major destination in Segovia was the cathedral. It’s a much grander building in its feel, but not much different in size to the one in Toledo, with large, imposing rooms and a gothic design that constantly points your vision up. We were able to explore on our own, so people took their time to take in all the details and sites, which was great. Afterwards we went back to Madrid. It was a fantastic weekend!
-Noah Loker
Some of the activities I have been enjoying most after school are going to the park for lunch and spending time at a pool. Recently, I have especially enjoyed relaxing, and hanging out with my friends there. I also love going to a café, sitting outside, and people-watching. I am always catching myself wanting to observe the people around me. Public transportation has been very different from what I am used to. In Madrid, they use the metro system, which is very convenient, but it is also extremely crowded because so many people use it. Most recently, while coming back to our hostel, a few people from our group got onto the metro just as a woman started pushing through with her suitcase to get on. I ended up having to stand on one foot to allow space for her to get on, which was very difficult. One thing that has always caught my attention is the escalator etiquette. People stand on the right side to allow others to walk up on the left. Another thing I have noticed that we do not see at home is the nightly street-cleaning crews. Every night, large trucks drive through the city spraying water, while workers pick up trash and help keep the streets clean.
-Hannah Kepler
Our first two weeks in Spain have been — you guessed it — a whirlwind! From our native Spanish speakers to our peers who have never taken a Spanish class, every one of us has had to adjust to this new country in expected and unexpected ways. For the first few jet-lagged days, we stayed in a hostel near the center of Madrid. We moved in with our host families on Sunday, May 10th, and started language school at Estudio Sampere the next morning.
Host family adjustment: Doing my intercultural in Spain has helped me immerse myself in Spanish culture in ways I never could have experienced in a classroom, back in the states. Living only a 15-minute walk from school and a 30-ish-minute metro ride from the main plazas has given me freedom to explore the city while adapting to everyday Spanish life. One of the biggest adjustments has been the schedule, our host family making us dinner everyday at 9 p.m., going to sleep later, but still having to wake up at regular school times. It definitely has taken some time to adjust to, but after a week, it has become routine. I also feel that my Spanish has improved through the daily conversations with my host family, and when words fail, universal hand gestures (like thumbs up and clapping) help us communicate effectively. Living with a host family has also taught me how to adjust to someone else’s routine, especially with having our host grandma doing our laundry for us on a designated day, and my roommate and I thinking we did a good job making our beds, but coming home to everything remade (way better) by her. Soon we will have another study abroad student move in, which I think will make the experience even more exciting and culturally immersive.
– Kyla Ross
Language learning experience: On this Intercultural we’ve been learning not only the culture but also the language of Madrid, Spanish! Which has been a very fun experience but, it has essentially been the equivalent of being thrown into the deep end for some of us. Thankfully with the help of many friends in the group that know some Spanish already (plus a little bit of pointing and grunting) we have all been able to fully enjoy our time so far. Then there’s the school… it’s been a bumpy ride so far but now that the dust has settled it seems most everyone has found a good spot to learn new things and challenge themselves just enough. After some hiccups with placements and assumed Spanish skills everyone is now in the classes they need. Just like other school experiences, some teachers you like more than others, or some days feeling better than others, but everyday at the very least one new thing is learned, whether that’s Spanish words or some Chile geography.
– Bennett De Tenley
Cultural adjustment: One of the main things that I was excited to experience on my Intercultural to Spain was the change in culture. So far it hasn’t disappointed. There are differences as subtle as which side of the escalator to stand on, and there are also differences that are more blatant like having to ask for the check instead of it just being handed to you. People also wear different styles of clothing than in the United States, which is really cool to see. Changing my lifestyle to fit the culture of Spain was not the easiest task, but there were things that made it easier. Although I had to recover from jet lag, most things happen at a later time than I’m accustomed to anyway, which helped combat it. Dinner is later than I’m used to, the sun sets later than in Virginia, and most establishments both open and close later in the day/night. Being in the city helped me see some of the differences in clothing in person, and I was able to buy some things to better fit that picture. Most of the changes that I had to make in the way I went about life I was able to do by just “following the leader” and copying some of the people that I saw in public. Adapting to the culture has definitely been an experience to remember, and I can’t wait to bring some of it back with me when I return.
– Delan Gilliam-Wright
A lecture about “convivencia” (coexistence) Wednesday evening: Dr. Ana Ruiz is a very passionate and interesting person. She has done much work with country leaders, college leaders, and students. She shared that the last time all of Spain‘s political parties and leaders came together in a unified way was after the Madrid commuter train terrorist attacks in 2004. That was over 20 years ago. Dr. Ana has worked hard to make restorative justice something that is integrated into her daily life and the whole Spain community. I appreciated how she is trying to radicalize students little by little so Gen Z can radicalize the whole country. Restorative justice can change how whole communities work. If each of us would take the time to listen before we react, much harm could be avoided and healing could happen.
– Sophia Lacher
26 May 2025The last several days we explored anabaptist history with pastor Emanuel Neufeld in Basel. The banner photo is our group at the Münster.Then we were off to the Swiss countryside, exploring remote farms where anabaptists sought precarious refuge after persecution drove them away from the cities. Lukas Amstutz, director of the Mennonite Education Center at Bienenberg shared stories of people who lived there, the questions they struggled with, and how their stories relate to ours today.
April 20-27
This week our group arrived in Tucson by plane on Monday and drove to the border towns of Douglas and Agua Prieta. We spent the week doing activities planned by the organization Frontera de Cristo. We started by visiting the border fence and learning the history that led to the fence that we see now. We also visited several sister organizations. They taught us about the support for the migrants passing through and we met with agents from the border patrol and had time to ask them questions. We were honored to take place in a cross-placing ceremony that commemorated the lives of two migrants who died in the desert. The community invited us into their homes for many great meals.
Over this past week, we have traveled from Mexico City to San Francisco to the border of Arizona and Mexico. It has been a shift of perspective and realities as we have moved further north in Mexico to work with an organization named Frontera de Cristo, which translates to Christ’s Border. For most of the group, this was the first time that we had seen the wall, which in reality is a fence with mesh and barbed wire, and it made things much more real for me. Coming from our time in Mexico City where we worked and listened with a group of migrants at Casa Tochan, I couldn’t help but think what their futures will look like when staring at a border that is designed to divide and keep people out. With this, we also had the opportunity to learn more about the infrastructure of the wall, see changes that were made during different presidencies, and also hear perspectives from all sides, such as hearing from two border patrol agents.
Through all of this, my perspective has been changed and pushed because the more we have learned the less I feel I know. The situation at the U.S. – Mexico border is complex, but what I do know is that all people deserve human rights and respect. No matter what side of the border or what status a person has, they are a loved child of God.
Thank you Frontero de Cristo for your hospitality and learning opportunities.
-Rose Short
21 April – Mexico City:
This past week, we wrapped up our time in Mexico City. We spent 2 more days volunteering at Casa Tochan, where we hung out with and played many fun games with the migrants, as well as hearing many stories from the migrants about their immigration journey and gaining insight on their experiences and the shocking reality of some migration journeys. We visited an anthropology museum where we learned about Mexican/Latin American history and culture. We attended a Pumas soccer game at the Olympic stadium one evening, which was fun and exciting. There was free time throughout the week to explore, get food, or visit different places in the city if we wanted to. One afternoon we had a 2-hour Salsa lesson, where we learned some of the steps for this dance style. On the weekend, we completed a hike that had a pretty view. Later that evening, we had a nice rooftop dinner and went to a building that had an observation deck over the city. We wrapped up our last day in Mexico City with an early Easter church service, and then hanging out/chilling in the evening.
A Tale of Two Cities
After moseying about Guatemala City for nine weeks, then transitioning to Mexico City for a two-week stay, the differences between the two capital cities have been quite apparent.
Before even setting foot in Mexico City, looking out of the plane window in the several minutes before touching down at the airport was fascinating; the urban landscape sprawled out as far as the eye could see. The difference in size between the two cities was apparent. In fact, Mexico City’s population is about seven times that of Guatemala City’s.
After exploring the city a little bit, we quickly noticed a contrast. At first sight, Mexico City’s sleek, modern buildings and shiny new cars stood out. Transportation was organized well, with traffic lights and four-lane roads with bicycle lanes and sidewalks in contrast to the congested chaos of the roads of Guate. And while I am a dedicated rider, I will admit that Mexico’s streets feel a little safer without the constant stream of motorcyclists weaving in and out of the lanes that is characteristic of Guate. And while Mexico City isn’t immune to air pollution, it was pleasant to walk outside without inhaling diesel exhaust.
A major difference that we students have enjoyed during our time here in Mexico is the city’s efficient, comprehensive public transportation system. On the metro line we have used primarily, buses arrive every minute or two and there is usually ample personal space. In Guatemala City, the wait time for a TransMetro bus can be fifteen minutes, and during rush hour they become incredibly packed. We have also taken advantage of Mexico City’s extensive subway system.
Aside from physical differences, the cultural change is quite noticeable. The population of Mexico City appears more liberal, evident in clothing/style choices and gay couples out in public, which is unseen in Guate. (One host family from Guate City claimed that this is because homosexuality simply doesn’t exist in their country!) Leisure is more of a possibility for the average resident of Mexico City; its per capita GDP is double that of Guatemala’s, and residents have the luxury to enjoy themselves more. There are nice, expansive wooded parks throughout the city, aesthetically pleasing coffee shops, and squares that come alive with music and salsa dancers at night. It’s a city of romance; take a ride on the metro or sit at a restaurant and you’ll likely see a handful of couples of all ages participating in PDA at any given time.
While this entry appears critical of Guatemala, a lot of these differences can be explained by the fact that Guatemala is a country in the process of recovering from corruption and injustices done to it in the recent past. Guatemalans are hard workers, frequently holding down multiple jobs and working long hours to make a living. Three members of my Guatemalan host family start their day between 3 and 4 a.m. and don’t return from work until the evening.
There is more that could be said on this subject, but for the purposes of this week’s blog I will stop here…see you next time in Arizona!
-Noah Buckwalter
13 April
This week we wrapped up our time in Guatemala and traveled to Mexico City. On Monday, we had an EMU class as an orientation for our time in Mexico. We left early Tuesday morning for the airport and arrived in Mexico City in the afternoon. On Wednesday, we divided into small groups and visited various museums around the city. On Thursday, we had an orientation at Casa Tochan, a non-profit organization that provides housing for male migrants. Friday and Saturday we volunteered there, helping with cooking and various other tasks. We also spent time connecting with the men who live there. Sunday, we attended a Palm Sunday processional
in the city and enjoyed a free afternoon.
This week we traveled to the second country of our semester, Mexico! We said our goodbyes to the wonderful Semilla staff, and left for the airport at 3:00 a.m. It was a good travel day, arriving in Mexico City around 2:00 p.m. We are staying at a church conference center near the Olympic stadium, which a couple of us went to see in person while out on a run.
This week we have been busy. Day one we went out in smaller groups to explore the city and tour some museums. Friday and Saturday we started our volunteer portion at Casa Tochan. Casa Tochan is a refugee shelter in Mexico City, mainly housing men fleeing violence in their home countries. We are helping to prepare
and serve food as well as some other tasks. On our down time we have been able to talk with guys, and it has been interesting to hear stories about their journeys. We have two more days of volunteering, then other activities here before we fly to Arizona.
It’s crazy to think we only have two weeks before we are headed back to Harrisonburg! It is a bittersweet moment for sure. We are all learning so much and exploring new things, but also ready to be reunited with family and friends.
-Sarah Wheeler
5 April, 2025
Over the past two weeks, our group has been split up in different Guatemalan Departments. Our community learning experiences were connected to our majors, and included countless experiences and journeys. I had the pleasure of staying in San Juan for these weeks.
I spent my days working in a clinic, AMI, along with two other nursing majors, Kaylin and Sarah. We were able to rotate between three specialties in the clinic. I spent days taking vitals for patients with the nurse, sorting through piles upon piles of medicine for the pharmacy, and writing in four different lab books for just one patient. The experience was great, and I am so thankful for it. My favorite days were the days that I got to sit in on consultations with the pediatrician and observe how a diagnosis works. These two weeks allowed me to get firsthand experience as well as practice the Spanish I have learned thus far. While nerve-racking at some points, I’m proud of the three of us for being helping hands to the clinic staff, and expanding our knowledge one day at a time.
-Ivy Miller
Rujotay
About the organization – This group started about six years ago between two friends. One lives here in Comalapa and the other in Guatemala City. Their mission mostly has to do with education and takes the form of school outreach programs and working with the community. Their active programs are composting, running a coffee shop, and other smaller outreaches.
Composting is the main focus and the part that makes an impact on this area. They collect compostable material from around 40 houses in Comalapa and take it to a plot of land outside the city to process it into compost. They also get students from a local school to come and work with them in the composting plant. I think this is such an important mission because it helps the youth see the impact of their actions. If you never see the direct impact, you can live in ignorance and avoid seeing the results of your decisions. This organization is doing a lot of good in an area that has a lot of potential.
-Sam Myers
ANADESAI spent the last two weeks, during the community learning portion of our term, back in Santiago Atitlán with the organization ANADESA. I worked at their location in Chukmuk with two of their teachers and another member from our group, Emae. These past two weeks were full of new experiences, new connections, lots of crafting, and a new language that surrounded me. This area around Santiago Atitlán spoke Tz’utujil, one of the 22 indigenous Maya languages spoken in Guatemala. Work and home were filled with a language I didn’t know. While this sometimes made it difficult to find my place, I appreciated the use of their native language. It helped me see authentic interactions between my family, teachers, students, and community. I also spent so much of my time observing and witnessing and accompanying my coworkers.While my time was brief, I felt like I experienced so much. I felt like I was a part of the daily rhythm and like I was able to lighten the load of the teachers. I was able to see their passion for education and not just with the kids, but with the women from the community as well. I learned how to navigate the truck route and plan for our departure by boat. My time was definitely full of challenges and frustration and boredom, as well as laughter and gratitude and beauty. I am excited to see where our last adventures will take us and what they will teach us!-Malia Bauman
March 23-30
Our group gathered for a day at Semilla after free travel then Sunday morning we left for our service learning assignments. Zoe and Amanda stayed in the city at Clínica Jac de Wit. Caleb, Sam and Malachi went to Comalapa to work with Rujotay. Malia, Emae and Payton went to Santiago Atitlan to work with Anadesa. Sarah, Kaylin and Ivy went to San Juan Atitlan to work with AMI. Claire, Nathan, Noah and Esme went to Alta Verapaz to work with CCFC. Rose went to Santiago Atitlan to work with ADISA. Liz and Lily went to San Pedro Carcha to work with Sembrando Esperanza.
I have definitely learned a lot during my first week of community learning. I am placed at a private clinic in the city called Community Health Center Jac de Wit, with one other student, Zoe. We arrive each morning at 6:00 a.m. to start our day with a wonderful breakfast made at the clinic. We have observed different parts of the clinic like the lab, in-patient area, and the emergency area. We also helped with their monthly inventory checks. In the lab we helped test blood and learned about that process.
Overall, we have observed a lot of patient care. The clinic can be slow sometimes, but that gives us time to talk to and connect with workers here. They have all been very welcoming to us. They are excited to show us their jobs and are patient with our Spanish. I will always remember their kindness. Each person I’ve worked with has shown great interest in my story, and I’ve loved getting to know them. I’m excited to use what I have learned here, at school and in my future career.
-Amanda Yoder
For our two weeks of service, a few others and I were tasked with working at Community Cloud Forest Conservation. The organization partners with local teachers to provide classes for local students and teach leadership skills and more environmentally friendly agricultural practices. During our time there, we got to work side by side with the teachers as they did a variety of activities in the forest. Some of the things we did included harvesting vegetables, preparing soil at the tree nursery, and cooking meals for the group. Throughout our time, we were able to connect with those working at the conservatory, as well as the beautiful landscape around us. We were able to learn about sustainable agricultural practices and really be involved in the process of developing the land in a healthy way. We had a wonderful time being able to learn from and spend time with the teachers here, providing unique perspectives on life here in Guatemala.
– Nathan Miller
Fifteen women’s voices ebb and flow in the dance of conflict, some louder, some softer, some with much to say, others with few words. Don Carlos, having stood to leave, removes his backpack from his shoulders and slides back into the green plastic patio chair. He nods and listens, careful not to interrupt. I understand little to none of the conversation taking place in Q’eqchi’.
In the midst of all this, a young girl named Helen in a teal huipil and colorful corte, bounds up to me, making sculptures with her already-been-chewed gum and asking me to guess what it is. A baby chick marches in through the open doorway, pecking at crumbs along the red concrete floor, dropping its poo as an offering in the middle of the meeting. I sit on the bed in the corner near the door, outside of which, trees, taro, cabbage, and cardamom grow along steep hills.
These neighbors are connected by dirt paths and bloodlines. They can’t agree on where to construct their community hoop house that will allow them to more carefully tend higher quantities of vegetable starts, and one leader is ready to give up her role as Agriculture Promoter due to the disagreement. Suddenly, Don Carlos motions us to stand up and join the circle. I watch him slip off his baseball cap and follow suit with my own.
Thus begins the cacophony of voices raised to the heavens, blending the Q’eqchi’ ban’tiox (thank you) with more familiar Spanish words like bendiga (bless). Everyone prays aloud, all at once, louder and louder. I am reminded of how, at the beginning of it all, God created order out of chaos with the spoken word dabar and it was very good. Likewise, God hears these spoken prayers all at once, and in this collaborative way of asking God for mercy, powerful transformation takes place.
I am later told that the women reconciled, and construction of the hoop house will continue. A few won’t join, but “for those who are compelled to work, who will stop them?” By the time we walk out into the fresh, sweet-smelling air, we have stayed well over an hour beyond the first time Don Carlos stood up to leave.
– Liz Miller, Sembrando Esperanza-ODIGUA,
San Pedro Carchá, Alta Verapaz
- Febrero
This week the theme was justice, violence, and peace in Guatemala. On Monday we visited the Survivors Foundation, which is a nonprofit that helps women and children who have experienced domestic violence to rebuild their lives. On Tuesday, we had a Zoom call with Robert Brenneman, an EMU and CASAS alumni. He is the author of the book, Homies and Hermanos which we are currently reading for our EMU class. Wednesday, we had two guest speakers who talked about their red-zone community. One was Yanet, the pastor of Roca de Salvacion in Zone 6. The other was Angelita, an ex-gang member who lives in Zone 6 and attends the same church. On Thursday, we had our weekly EMU class where we talked about everything we had experienced that week. Friday, we had our final exams for our Spanish classes in the morning, and then a free afternoon. Friday night we stayed at Semilla as a group before leaving on Saturday at 3:30 a.m. for the airport. We flew to Flores and spent the morning visiting Tikal. We went to our hotel in the afternoon and spent the rest of the day and Sunday there.
Time is flying by in Guatemala and we have already found ourselves halfway done with the host family stays. I find myself in the Peten region of Guatemala learning about the Mayan city of Tikal! The ruins are amazing and they cover a large area and even include a temple 70 meters tall! Something that I learned during this time is that they (The Mayans) actually were the reason that they had to leave the city of Tikal. Their exploitation of natural resources and excessive burning of wood caused a drought that left them exposed to invaders and without food.
It seems like a civilization that advanced would have figured out how to stay living where they built all of these structures. This draws parallels to our modern world, with our rising temperature and fluctuating temperatures. Some things have changed I guess. Humans are still the downfall of humans and we haven’t figured out how to save ourselves. This was a new side of history for me to see because we usually look back and romanticize the cultures of the past as being one with nature, but that simply isn’t true. I’m not sure humans will ever figure out how to coexist with our earth but we have to try for the sake of everything.
-Samuel Myers
- Feb. 2025
After returning from the trip, this week was a chance to settle back into a regular routine. The theme of the afternoon class was human rights and we started with a trip to the OHDAG offices (Office of Human Rights of the Archbishop of Guatemala). The next day we watched a documentary called The Art of Political Murder. The group got some extra free time to rest up since one of the speakers was unable to meet with us. The group also had its second full weekend with host families.
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Personal Reflection: the 5 Senses Edition
My sense of smell is constantly engaged here. Maybe that’s because I have a weirdly sensitive sense of smell (thanks, Mom) or all of my senses are on overload all of the time and I just so happen to notice my nose. I smell exhaust, B.O., eucalyptus, tortillas, the shoes I wear every day, (yuck) my host mom’s laundry detergent, and rarely – fresh air.
My ears are on overdrive. Between the mix of languages, cars, idling bus engines as we inch along Calle Roosevelt, yowling cats, gospel music from taxi radios, the fruit/ice cream/pizza guys shouting their wares, the mourning doves with a different song. It feels weird when it is quiet here. My eyes are overwhelmed with sights that are hard to process – the Terminal Market, Cayalá, more traffic than I’ve ever seen, electrical wires that are terrifyingly hung. My hands feel the stickiness of the bus and my host mom’s shoulder as she cries in church. My skin feels sweat, dirt, hugs from my host brother. I taste new foods – tamales that make me gag, rellenitos (of which I could eat hundreds), tortillas, caldo, (soup) caldo, y más caldo. These senses are what make this experience real. Proof that I’m here. Proof that I’m not dreaming.
-Esme Martin
27 January 2025
Week 2 in Guatemala was quite eventful. On Monday we visited Casa de la Memoria and learned about the history of Mayans in Guatemala. On Tuesday we visited the Palacio National de la Cultura. On Wednesday, we heard Ronaldo Similox talk about Mayan spirituality. On Thursday we departed from Semilla early in the morning and headed to Panajachel. On the way we stopped and visited Ruinas Iximche. There we learned more about Mayan history and culture. From Panajachel, we took a boat trip to Santiago Atitlan. We spent the afternoon at ANADESA learning more about Mayan culture by learning how to make tortillas and a traditional Mayan dance! We spent the evening with our host families. Friday, we spent the morning cooking a traditional Mayan meal. In the afternoon, we took a boat trip to San Juan. We spent the afternoon relaxing at the hotel and enjoying the lake. On Saturday, we spent the morning touring various businesses in the town of San Juan. We learned about the process of weaving, collecting honey from bees, and making chocolate. In the afternoon, we traveled back to Panajachel, and then from there we took a bus ride to Chichicastenango. We spent the evening visiting Ruth and Naomi, a project created to support local widows who lost their spouses during the civil war. On Sunday, we spent the morning visiting the local market before heading back to Semilla in the afternoon.
Mayan Spirituality
Iq’ Nawal – The HummingbirdOne thing we learned about this past week was the Mayan Calendar. This is a combination of many things like science, technology, philosophy, spirituality, astronomy, mathematics, etc. and this knowledge is used to live intimately linked to the history of the universe by the Mayan people. This calendar is made up of 20 energies called Nawal, as well as 13 energy levels (multiplying these gives 260 personality types). The 20 energies are B’atz’, Ee, Aj, Ix, Tz’ikin, Ajmak, No’j, Tijax, Kawok, Ajpu, Imox, Iq’, Aj’ab’al, K’at, Kan, Kame, Kej, Q’anil, Toj, and Tz’i.
A person’s day of birth determines which Nawal they are. For example, my birthday is Feb. 29, and the Nawal for this day is Iq’. Iq’ is the Hummingbird. World, nature, altars, air, breath of life. Iq’ is the lightning, it is the storms. It is the day of the spirit of the air. [Mayans view] the heart of heaven as giving all living beings the air; food of life. It is a symbol of the commemoration of the end of the world, having done what is necessary for all living beings and completed the sky. Seen as the day of the Heart of Heaven, Heart of the Earth. It is the spiritual, mystical breath, vital principle, inspiration, ideas and actions. It is the essence of every living being. Day of the altars, of the air, sacred breath that gives strength and fills us with life.
Each Nawal has its own descriptions, strengths, weaknesses, and spiritual connections, but Iq’ is just one of those. Getting to learn about this spiritual/important part of the Mayan culture was really interesting and meaningful.
-Emae Klompenhouwer
Week 1 Reflections – January 19
Our group flew from Reagan National Airport to Houston International, then on to Guatemala City. We heard about the History and Culture of Guatemala from Isra Ortiz Escobar. We also had some time to explore the community around Semilla/CASAS. The group went to Casa Horeb to experience a Mennonite church in Guatemala. We met our host families. We started Spanish classes at Semilla. We took a tour of Zona 1 and learned about the history of the central plaza. The non-profit group Puerta de Esperanza told us about their mission of educating the children who live in the Terminal market. They gave us a tour of the Terminal market and met with families who live there. We also went to one of the richest parts of the city and saw the contrast between Cayala Mall and the Terminal Market.
One week in Guatemala and we have experienced so much. I will never forget how I felt in the car as my host parents took me home for the first time. Cars were buzzing all around us as motorcycles weaved through traffic. Not only am I in a different country, but I am with two complete strangers that I am going to live with for the next two months. Did I mention that we don’t speak the same language? It was the most bizarre feeling, excitement mixed with fear and confusion. I had so many questions but I struggled to know how to ask them. As the days went on, I continued to feel a lot. Even within a single day, I found myself feeling a whole range of emotions. Some moments I felt capable and like I was learning quickly. Other moments left me feeling frustrated and tired. Our guest speaker on Saturday emphasized the idea of a paradox, and how Guatemala has quite a few. This became evident as we embarked on our contrast tour.
As we walked through the Terminal Market, it felt very chaotic and cramped. Every corner was being used to sell something, and the place was buzzing with people. I noticed children running around and pungent smells. At one point a young girl, 6 or 7 years old, reached for me to pick her up. As I lifted her, I asked her what her name was. She said “Mica” and proceeded to wrap her arms and legs around me tightly. She pressed her cheek against mine. She began pointing out things in our environment such as objects and colors that she knew. We began to name things together and despite our vastly different lives, we were able to connect. She brought so much life and energy with her. She was clinging so tightly.
The next day we had a very different experience visiting Cayala Mall, which was only 6-8 kilometers away from the Terminal market. Compared to the Terminal market, Cayala felt cold and empty. There were really expensive stores around but hardly anyone was in them shopping. Pictures of Margot Robbie on Ads were scattered around the place. It contained stores such as American Eagle, North Face, and Garmin. It felt safe and there was security around. The buildings were modern and clean. People walked around in fancy clothes and most of them had lighter skin. This was a whole different world than the one we saw at the Terminal market. Less than 10 kilometers apart were two totally different realities. People in the Terminal market would probably never even see Cayala Mall. Seeing these realities leaves us with so many questions. What can I do with what I’ve seen here? What is my role in all of this? What do these people think of us coming here? The feeling of Mica clinging to me will stay with me. I think I can learn a lot from her.
-Zoe Clymer
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Welcoming in Mexico
When we arrived in Mexico, we were warmly welcomed by Mark and Joca, the leaders of Frontera de Cristo. In our welcoming, we were taken to the American side of the border where we were able to see the wall in person. Many discussions about the wall circulate in the United States and are often labeled as something political, but during our time in Mexico Frontera de Cristo did a brilliant job at making it clear that the wall is a human problem that needs attention.
-Nia Boyd
Realities of the Desert
It can cost 10,000 dollars to guide people across the border. It depends on where people want to cross, due to the terrain, ownership of the land, and the power of organized crime, but many have lost their lives trying to cross into the United States irregularly. This is due to dehydration and not knowing the reality that lies ahead in the desert. In 2019, a woman running from violence fell during the crossing of the fence with a harness and was left hanging from the fence and passed away before anyone could help. Many stories like this exist about people who have died in their attempt to find a better life.
-Sarah Moore
CAPSIC
We visited a rehabilitation center and got to know more about drug and alcohol addictions in Agua Prieta. We learned that addiction affects all kinds of people ranging from children to doctors and lawyers. They informed us that a lot of them come in nearly skin and bones when they knock on the door. We were able to talk to some of the people that help the program function and they shared with us that they once struggled with addiction, and they suffered great loss from that addiction. Many lost connections to their children, their wives, and their families. They continued by saying that they help out people who come to CAPSIC because it reminds them of the importance of remaining sober, but also because they can see a lot of themselves within the people who come to the center for help.
Migrant Trail Walk and Vigils
We were blessed with the opportunity to walk the Migrant Trail Walk. This walk was created to honor the immigrants who lost their lives trying to cross the desert. Though we only walked the first day of the 75-mile walk, we were able to grasp the importance of events like the Migrant Trail Walk. Before we started the walk, there was a ceremony where we were cleansed of any negative energy we were carrying and walked in a circle greeting each other by hand. Once we were at the front of the border, each person bearing a cross walked across the border yelling the name that their cross held. These names were the names of people who had died attempting to cross the border. On the cross, it also had where they were from, their date of birth, and what day their remains were found. After they crossed the border, we would all yell “¡Presente!” meaning present. The part of the walk we were able to participate in was only 4.8 miles, but the end of the walk made each mile worth it. As they repeated the same process of yelling the names on the crosses they bore, there was a sense of unity and sadness that could be felt. There was something beautiful about their spirits being able to follow us where their bodies could not.
While in Mexico, we had the opportunity to participate in another vigil. The vigil was similar to the migrant trail walk. The main difference was that we were the ones bearing the crosses this time. And we would each walk along a strip of street, next to the canal where eight immigrants lost their lives. The crosses were structured the same way; each cross had the name of the deceased, their birthday, and the day they were found. If the body wasn’t known, the cross had “Desconocido/a” or Unknown. This vigil was very impactful. It was different being able to bear someone else’s cross to honor their essence. Someone who likely would have lived had deserts not been used as a natural deterrent for irregular immigration.
-Nia Boyd
Heading Home
There is no way to capture all the learning that happened during our experience over the past 3.5 weeks. We laughed, cried, bounced along bumpy roads, walked until our legs hurt, and met so many people who are committed to humanizing every person they encounter. We were told over and over that each person has a story, often one of violence and threat of life which is hard to imagine for many of us.
We witnessed so many people working in education, health care, shelters, community centers and churches who care deeply about those who walk miles through the desert hoping for some relief from the economic, political and real threats of organized crime. There are no easy answers but seeing people of faith embody Christ’s call to welcome the stranger was inspiring and challenging.
In our final days we were part of a cross planting ceremony where we placed a cross to mark the spot where a young man had died crossing the border. He probably died of dehydration after walking many miles in the desert. As we set the cross in place we were reminded that he was someone’s son, maybe a father, a brother – beloved by many with hopes and dreams that were cut short. Seeing his name on a cross cemented in the ground close to where his body was found was a small way to say “We remember you, Alonzo” and your life was important.
-Deanna Durham, Intercultural Program Leader
May 23 – May 31, 2024
Hotel McCoy
Our next stop was Tucson, Arizona. While in the cactus-filled city, we stayed at Hotel McCoy. Originally, it was a motel that people struggling with drug issues used to be in and out of. However, it has been repurposed into what is now a trendy hotel. This hotel is a beautiful artistic spot for travelers who want to visit Tucson. They have a beautiful pool open from 8 am until 11 pm and events for their guests to keep them engaged. They offer complimentary breakfast with an oatmeal bar (the “longest in the world!”), and there are different art pieces throughout the entire property. They offer free bikes to ride for people who may want to venture and explore the bike paths of Tucson. It should also be known that Hotel McCoy is near a bus stop, and the buses in Tucson are free of charge so you can get most anywhere for free!
-Nia Boyd
The Sanctuary Movements
While in Tucson, we visited Southside Presbyterian Church. This church is rooted in a history of helping those who have migrated to the United States. During the Judeo-Christian era, if someone ran into a church, they were safe from persecution as God would frown upon it. These are some of the building blocks upon which many religious delegations today base their service.
The Southside Presbyterian Church used this Judeo-Christian concept when it was applied to people fleeing from violence in their country. This marked the beginning of the Sanctuary Movement in Tucson, Arizona in the late 1970s. This movement emerged in response to people fleeing from countries where they were experiencing war, death threats, violence, torture, and economic instability. In the 1970s and 1980s, most people fled El Salvador, Mexico, and Guatemala seeking sanctuary in The United States and Canada. In the Sanctuary movement, church leaders aimed to help immigrants who had made it across borders. They provided migrants with a space to stay, warm food, and clothing. Many church leaders ended up facing accusations in court, becoming felons as they were simultaneously pastors. They were said to be aiding and abetting criminals because of the services they had provided to immigrants.
When Archbishop Óscar Romero was assassinated marking the start of a civil war in El Salvador, many Salvadorians tried to flee and seek sanctuary in America. However, the U.S. government was supporting the government and military in El Salvador, so many Salvadoreans trying to leave were denied entrance or consideration for asylum in the U.S.A. Southside Presbyterian congregants saw the impact of our government turning away so many people who were suffering. Because their homes were no longer safe, many immigrants tried to cross the border irregularly through natural deterrents, such as mountains or deserts, to reach the United States. This resulted in many people dying in their attempt to make it to America. At Southside Presbyterian church, you will find a memorial with rocks that hold the names of immigrants who died on their journey.
The sanctuary movement quieted at the end of the civil wars in Central America but recently a New Sanctuary Movement bloomed in the Mid-2000s and is ongoing. This movement started because of threats of deportation circulating in the United States. Around 2.4 million people were deported from 2000 to 2008. Southside Presbyterian Church is one example of welcoming the stranger and believes every human life is made in the image of God.
-Nia Boyd
Current places of Sanctuary in Tucson, Arizona
The group learned about two different programs that assist migrants in Tucson. Casa Alitas is a safe haven for those crossing the border now and in recent years. They aid in helping migrants find their way to their families after entering the country. According to many churches in the Tucson area, all people should be met with kindness and hospitality, as the church believes in welcoming our neighbors. Some churches find similar goals and often work together to make this happen. Community relationships are so heavily valued in the community of Tucson. One example of upholding these values is direct action for those seeking asylum who must wait until their court date, which can be scheduled in places as far as New York. There is no known duration between the arrival of migrants and their asylum court date. Some people are released to wait with family members residing in the U.S. but others must wait for their court date in a detention center. To many of those aware of the realities at the border, detention centers are seen as prisons. Church and non-profit programs work in the detention centers to try and help detainees. They try to raise money to pay a bond to help migrants with no criminal background get out. Also, they help families communicate with their loved ones inside these facilities.
https://www.casaalitas.org/
Casa Cardo is another safe place for single mothers and their children and is supported by Shalom Mennonite Congregation of Tucson. Most women are seeking asylum and need a place to sleep and stay with their children. Shalom provides five apartments where women can stay for up to two years. They hope to create a space of healing and support. They also want to help migrant women with legal issues and assist with communicating with any loved ones. They want the women to have a place to do some self-exploration and get their future started with structure.
-Sarah Moore
Receiving Migrants
Douglas is a small city with lower and middle-income residents along the Mexico/US border. At one point, the immigration checkpoint was the largest in the world for crossing the border. The Chief of Police in Douglas meets and collaborates with Mark Adams, Co-Director of Frontera de Cristo, a binational Presbyterian Ministry. Mark regularly informs the police and border patrol about the need for better transportation for migrants being released from a nearby detention center into the United States at Douglas. The police station in Douglas alerts Frontera when they will be releasing asylum seekers. The number can rise and fall dramatically depending on US policy changes and migration patterns. However, at the time we were visiting, two of the main Douglas churches, Presbyterian and Luthern, that have taken the lead in providing resources for migrants, had been burnt down. During a six-month period, the Catholic church became involved and welcomed over 8,500 people who were released into Douglas. Mark says it was astonishing to witness, and recognizes what big hearts people have in this border town. At this point in time, there are far fewer people attempting to cross in this region. Mark shared that the majority of people are going to Tucson, and so Frontera works closely with Casa Alitas (see blog entry above).
A misconception we learned about is that the public tends to assume the government is paying for plane tickets and other forms of transportation for migrants. Local churches and nonprofits, along with family members, bear the cost of transportation and many of the urgent needs of migrants waiting for their asylum appointments.
We learned that people cross the border in different ways. Some people avoid border patrol and walk through the desert in over 100- degree sun. This is a treacherous, and often deadly option. Some want to be picked up by the border patrol because they are fleeing violence, and their lives are in danger in their own country, so they wish to exercise their legal right to apply for asylum. They essentially give themselves up to border patrol agents. The retired border patrol (BP) agent we talked to claims that BP treats them the same. They take all of their information and do background checks, processing each person. If someone expresses a fear of returning to their home country, then the next step is to make sure they have due process and a legal process of verifying the person’s claim begins.
Some people are caught by BP but are not fleeing violence and choose to return voluntarily. If someone does voluntarily return, there are fewer penalties legally, but extremely harsh realities that they will be met with if they return home. This creates a harsh reality of not knowing when to be honest and how to get help. Additionally, detention centers are operated through contracts and the government through the Department of Homeland Security. Many are private corporations making large profits from holding people in detention. This promotes a mentality of profit for human bodies. The facilities get paid by the amount of beds that are full, not based on the needs of the people, nor do they have their best interest at heart.
-Sarah Moore
May 13 – May 23
New Orleans
New Orleans is known for its lively French Quarter and its Mardi Gras festival, but other important aspects of the city are overlooked. New Orleans is a city of resilience in multiple ways that extend beyond its party nature. With 2nd Line Tours, Jay, our tour guide, shared the history behind New Orleans. He discussed its roots in African and native cultures stemming from the Transatlantic Slave trade. We learned that many of the herbs that were used by New Orleanians’ ancestors are still used today, like sage. Remnants of slavery are still apparent in other parts of New Orleans in ways you may not expect. The structure of buildings are still, more or less, the same as when the buildings were erected. In fact, the Louis Armstrong family home is still there today! While in New Orleans, you may notice broken shards of glass or needles standing out of the fencing. This was placed in hopes of preventing slaves from escaping and for slaves who had escaped. Slaves that did manage to flee the estate would cut themselves and be hunted by bloodhounds.
The resilience of New Orleans shows itself in the persistence of African heritage and tradition despite European colonization and enslavement. The same can be said about the spirituality that exists in New Orleans, like Voodoo. Voodoo is often demonized in society, but it should be known that it exists to connect ancestors and present descendants while emphasizing a connection to the elements: Earth, Wind, Fire, Water, and Spirits. The spiritual practice of Voodoo was sacred to these people, as nature and earth was the connection to ancestors. It is known and respected in these areas that Voodan is a spiritual healing practice.
Jay also discussed funeral tradition in New Orleans, for those who have never seen a funeral in New Orleans: there is a normal service, but afterward, the pallbearers carry the casket out the doors and start the first line of the celebration. The second line follows behind the casket. The second line consists of family members who dance behind their deceased loved ones. The third line is open to the public and anyone in the streets who wants to join the celebration.
However, New Orleans, like any city, isn’t without its criticisms. New Orleans is a city focused on tourism. So much so that the city lacks any schools for the younger residents that live there. Students who have to go to school must travel outside of the city or enroll in a charter school. On the topic of education, many students aren’t made aware of the three brave black women who desegregated McDonough 19 after Brown vs Board of Education. On November 14th, 1960, the then 6-year old girls: Leona Tate, Tessie Prevost, and Gail Etienne desegregated the McDonough 19 elementary school and continued to go to the school amidst the riots by angry caucasian parents that ensued. Due to the inaccurate descriptions of desegregating schools in textbooks, students in New Orleans aren’t even aware this happened only a few years ago, and some believe these women are dead. The city of New Orleans is a beautiful and lively city for those visiting, but for those that live there it is hard for them to make a living. Most of the government funding is pushed towards tourism and keeping the city entertaining for those who venture in and out. There is a lack of consideration for those who live there permanently, and many struggle to thrive in the city.
– Nia Boyd & Sarah Moore
New Orleans
Impact of Hurricane Katrina:
Those in Louisiana have shown an incredible amount of strength and care for their community. Hurricane Katrina hit the city like an act of war, especially in the ninth ward, where the majority of the population are black men and women. This area is historically known for the passing of generational wealth within black communities and other marginalized groups. The hurricane forcefully struck the ninth ward, pushing into the city, resulting in abandoned homes, buildings, and lots. The city still makes money off of the upkeep of these abandoned lots, and in large buildings, security gets paid money to watch over an abandoned building. The lower ninth ward is below the water level of the Mississippi River. This is where most of the civilians passed. When thinking about the impact of a hurricane, living at these levels results in immense damage and vulnerability. Every time you see an empty lot, it is an untold story of hardship.
Additionally, many people were eaten by marine life, or swept away in the floods, making the death count unknown. New Orleans took the barge company that broke through the levy to court, which New Orleans lost. The government issued trailers after the hurricane that were filled with formaldehyde, affecting the health of many locals. They live with chronic cancer illness to this day.
Many members of the community feel there were so many alternatives that could have been utilized in order to help the people in the ninth ward. BargING 347 is a theory that the bus-looking structure, called a barge, broke through the levy. They were trying to flood the ninth ward to save the French Quarter in the 1920s. This leads people to assume that the clearing out they did in 1920 is similar to the lack of response to modern hardship.
After the hurricane, the Make It Right Foundation teamed up with Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie to remake homes, but the homes are crumbling because they did not construct these homes with durable materials. They did not use cyprus or New Orleans standards to build any of the homes. The cyprus doesn’t rot from the humidity, making it a necessity when constructing homes. Prior to Katrina, around 50% of the residents had been homeowners. After Katrina flooded and devastated the ward, their homes had been taken from them and could not be saved as the insurance company claimed that because they didn’t have flood insurance it could not be covered. Many lost their homes, their family, and friends as a result of the devastation brought to New Orleans by Katrina in 2005. When you visit New Orleans, you should consider each overgrown, green plot of land as an untold story left in Katrina’s wake.
The 8th Ward:
The eighth ward is a place of true sanctuary and rich history. It is a place of marginalized groups finding prosperity within community and acceptance. They acknowledged the hardship present, and did something about it. The eighth ward was where the slaves met with the natives and other indigenous groups. They created a new way of life for the slaves, and when a slaver would come to take them back, they would be unrecognizable. The 8th ward is considered sacred land as many were fighting for survival. It was also a prestigious black community known as Black Wall Street. This area thrived and sustained itself for quite some time. However, they knocked over 200 homes in the urban renewal to put the large roads through. This forever changed the area. It is now a place of small communities, present homelessness, and is filled with people who long to revive the generational wealth of the area.
Street Interviews:
While in New Orleans, we had the opportunity to speak with a security guard. She shared her belief that the number one cause of homelessness is the lack of sufficient pay for employees. After Hurricane Katrina, the city decided to repair the casinos and tourist attractions rather than the local homes. When asked if she would leave, she said yes. She travels outside of the city to enjoy herself and only stays in the city to work. She has two children who live with her, and she encourages them to find work and home ownership outside of the city. Many tourists come from their hometowns to party and tour the city of New Orleans. The woman shared that the glamorous life in New Orleans is falsified and that the history of the city would show how false it is. The revenue only comes from people coming and going. The workers stay because they can’t afford to get up and leave. Not only that but their families are here, often stuck in the same situation.
One night after going out in the city, sitting down with a member of the homeless community was a rewarding conversation. We sat outside the hostel that the group was staying at and I asked him about himself. He had shared with me that he just got out of prison, having been there for twenty years. Additionally, he shared that he was in prison for fifteen dollars worth of drugs being on his person. He expressed his frustration in missing his mother’s funeral, and missing impactful moments of his nieces and nephews’ lives. He also shared that lack of pay and job opportunities that are sustainable lead to people resorting to side hustles like selling drugs. There is a need for accessible housing and better pay for the working class. With the constant in and out of the tourists, the authenticity of certain parts of the city are challenged, creating hardship for the locals who have lived there for years.
Okra Abbey:
Okra Abbey is a self-sustained garden and food source for the community. It is currently functioning next to a vacant French school, however each group that has bought the property allows the management and resources Okra Abbey provides to use the lot. They do not pay to be there, but provide the community with so much value. They have dinners on Wednesdays and have a community fridge where they will put free food. On a typical Wednesday, they feed a minimum of fifty people. They apply for grants for sustained resources. The director, Hannah Quick, is from a Presbyterian church and is also the pastor. When talking about the coffee pot as a metaphor for Okra Abbey, she wants to facilitate a space where people feel belonging and ownership to the point where when the pot is empty, they fill it up as if they were at home. This creates a strong sense of purpose and community for those who are present in the space.
There is no income generated by the space and the meal is made at the church that is connected to a food bank. For funding, they began a new worshiping community program that was able to provide funding for about five years. When it comes to recruitment, they wanted to create more diversity and accessibility. They have international volunteers who stay with families in the community and give their service to Okra Abbey. The service groups and young people who come to work and live in the community are similar to The Peace Corps, but specifically for the Presbyterian church. Originally from California, Quick went to seminary for her master’s degree and has been at Okra Abbey for six years. She found her most recent church by reaching out and not selling the church to the city or developers. This allowed for a community focus and to use the space for creative activities and after-school programs. The gardens are surrounded by painted cinder blocks and a chain-link fence, with the gates wide open. As we worked in the garden removing weeds, community members walking by were excited to see people there, immediately speaking out to say hello.
Arizona:
Church Involvement: Pastor Tina of the Shalom Mennonite Church at Hotel Mccoy
Casa Alitas: A group of workers and volunteers that create a safe haven for those crossing. They aid in helping them find their way to their families after entering the country. Those crossing should be met with kindness and hospitality according to many churches in the area. Churches with similar goals often work together to make this happen. These churches are proud to walk with people even for the short amount of time that they have needs, in order to support migrants and their families. For those seeking refuge from violence, also known as asylum, they must wait until their court date, which takes place in New York. There is no known duration between acceptance of refuge and their court date for visas or any other resident status. That is when the services of the churches become crucial.
Additionally, detention centers are seen as prisons. The church and programs work to come into those spaces to try and help them. They try to raise money to receive a bond for help getting out of the detention centers. Someone could end up being in these prisons for being in the right place at the wrong time, creating a deeply rooted fear of crossing the border, even though it is necessary. Also, they help families communicate with their loved ones inside these facilities. Corporations make a lot of money off of the detention centers. The argument of too much money going to immigration is invalid. Completely. There are so many people willing to help, but our own country is making that illegal.
– Sarah Moore & Nia Boyd
Stepping off the plane, Cuba already felt different. Palm trees lining the road, the sun shining brightly, breathing in the fresh air. Throughout our two weeks here in Cuba we have experienced the beauty of Cuban culture. The streets filled with the sound of music and people dancing, with art displayed in the store windows. “Cuba que linda es Cuba…” This song was constantly repeating in our heads during our time in Cuba. We spent several evenings listening to live music and dancing to the beat. We got to experience the rich nightlife of Cuban culture and enjoy the benefits of valuing the arts.
On top of the beautiful culture and landscapes of Cuba, we have also learned how much harm the US has caused and is still causing the Cuban people. Cuba is being suffocated by the blockade, preventing them from obtaining crucial resources needed to sustain life. Yet despite all this, Cuba is so lively. The young people have a fire to continue fighting for justice and peace. Cubans are open to any questions one might ask, no matter how “political” it is. This was inspiring to me because here in the US, we tend to shy away from those topics, when we really need to be addressing them head-on. I challenge us, moving forward, to be more like the Cuban people and answer questions thrown our way and also to not be afraid to ask questions. We could learn so much more from each other if we just listened and shared our honest opinions, even if they aren’t the popular ones.
Throughout our entire semester, we have been looking at the resilience present in the people around us. In Guatemala, people continue to push through despite a corrupt government and the impacts of migration on their families. In Cuba, people continue to push through despite the blockade put in place by the US government that has been there for 60+ years. The two cultures exhibit this resilience very differently. In Cuba, the people are all united against the one “evil”, fighting together to survive, showing their frustrations and celebrating life through music and art.
Cuba really opened my eyes to my own ignorance and how important it is to really look into the actions and policy of the US government. I hope to stay up to date on current US policies and encourage others to do the same. We need to use our privilege of being a US citizen well, and do all that we can to make change happen.
-Kate Kraybill
Living in Cuba is surreal, like being transported to another time period. After we exited the airport, the first thing I noticed was the cars. Cars that would turn heads in the U.S. are commonplace. Classic Fords, Cadillacs, Chevys, roam in vibrant colors like pink and sky blue. Next, I learned there are no advertisements lining the streets, simply government billboards or statements celebrating the Cuban revolution. Some on the trip including me used the lack of internet access as an opportunity to really disconnect – going off the grid for two entire weeks. No ads or distractions came to be a beautiful part of my time in Cuba. Instead, I was able to focus on reading, napping, writing, and appreciating my opportunity to be here. After all, who knows when I will have the opportunity to return. All these factors made me feel so separate from the happenings of the world – like Cuba has been for so many years due to the U.S. blockade.
Later, as we spent more time in the country, we realized that what really stands out is the people: the doctors, the artists, the students, the musicians, and every speaker that we listened to. Each one is so passionate and knowledgeable about their field, usually with a funny and contagious energy. In two weeks, we packed in a lot: speakers, museums, restaurants, and outings. However, even on the small island, it feels like we only got to experience a small fraction of Cuban life and stories. I think I speak for everybody on the trip when I would love to return one day, especially to see our amazing group leaders at the Martin Luther King Center.
-Nate Lehman
how beautiful the birds are
they roam freely
oh how they sing
do they know they are locked in a cage?
oh how they continue to fly with pride
singing loudly for all to hear
under the sun
that has never failed to rise
oh how the sun has seen everything
does the sun ever feel tired?
weary & worn from all the fighting
surely if the sun continues to rise
& as the birds keep on singing
so must we.
we must keep fighting
for everything worthy & just
caught between both the light from the sun & its depths in the shadows
& one day we will sing a new song
may our eyes be open
our hands ready to work
& our hearts yearning to love
like birds singing & dancing freely
all under the same sun
When I think of time spent in Cuba, birds come to mind. Seeing bee hummingbirds, the smallest bird, flying from branch to branch was incredible. Oh, how they are small but mighty. I asked Nate, our nature guy, for a fun fact about these birds. He told me that bee hummingbirds are the only type of birds that can hover on their own.
I think this represents Cuba. The blockade the U.S. has intentionally placed on Cuba is a form of genocide. Cubans have been forced to become resourceful to survive. It’s the only way. As one Cuban man said, “but you won’t see Cubans crying”. They continue to fight and resist. They carry on within themselves not waiting for an external force, the U.S. & our blockade, to change. To me, bee hummingbirds represent the strength and resilience of Cubans working together in community. As people living in the U.S., change is needed in our country. May we love mercy, do justly & walk humbly.
-Sophia Armato
We recently spent 10 days living in communities around Guatemala and serving with organizations in those communities. Keep reading to hear about where each group went.
We (Marie & Sophia) spent the week in Santiago, Atitlan working with Amanecer Nueva de Santiago Atitlan (ANADESA). This organization focuses on helping empower indigenous women, as well as supporting children with their educational needs. Something that stood out to us were home visits. They were check-ins to assess what the children’s needs were & how they could help. This truly demonstrated how this organization & these kind people are helping & caring for their community. We truly enjoyed working with Jessica, Víctor, Chonita & the many students with whom we had the opportunity to work. Gracias por todo!
– Sophia Armato
We (Miranda and Maria) spent the week living in Santiago Atitlan working with ADISA, an organization that works primarily with individuals with disabilities and their families, though their reach extends far beyond that. They have four main arms of work: social empowerment, economic empowerment, education, and health services. I (Maria) spent the week in the health clinic, doing home visits and appointments with the physical therapist. It shed a light on the realities of Guatemalan healthcare especially in rural areas. The work ADISA is doing fills some of the gaps, but they can only do so much and ultimately change must be systemic. I (Miranda) spent the week working with education, specially with “grupos inclusivos” (inclusive groups) that work to build social connections between kids and reinforce what they’re learning in school. We took the classes to different communities and it was super impactful for me to see the reality of these communities. A main theme that dominated the week was seeing a very different Guatemalan reality than we had seen in the city. We were able to experience firsthand the differences between rural and urban Guatemala.
– Miranda Beidler
For community learning, Leah, Josh, and I volunteered with AMI, an organization located in San Juan Laguna. AMI is a multifaceted organization that includes a medical clinical, agricultural education, and various other community programs. For the majority of the time, our work was focused on the clinic. At the clinic, we did inventory for many medicines and other products. We also helped build office items. We were grateful to aid the clinic as it was starting up, and to contribute to the broader mission of AMI. We also spent two days in neighboring communities, recording information for a socioeconomic study of one of the programs for women, as well as observing a worker educating families on farming and composting. This person-to-person interaction was very meaningful, as we were able to see how AMI has and continues to positively impact the nearby communities. Overall, it was impactful to serve the community in the area we hope to work with in the future.
– Marianne Short
For community learning Nate and I were living and volunteering in Alta Verapaz at Community Cloud Forest Conservation (CCFC). As a group, we visited CCFC earlier this semester and learned about the conservation work that they do. Nate and I were excited to return for community learning! We arrived on Sunday afternoon and Monday morning we participated in the large team meeting with the team of Women in Agroecology Leadership for Conservation (WALC) teachers. During our time at CCFC earlier this semester we had been paired with the WALC teachers, and I was grateful that we were able to work with familiar faces and continued to deepen our relationships with the teachers.
Our days began early at 7:00 am, and we pitched in wherever they needed us, some days this meant picking blackberries or clearing fields with machetes, other days this was helping in the kitchen preparing jams and breads. We had the afternoons and evenings to explore the CCFC property and took advantage of the trails and river that run through the land.
We had the opportunity to hike up to a local village with a small group of teachers to learn about rotational grazing. We hiked on the mountainside and had the opportunity to experience the vast biodiversity of the cloud forest. We learned about the local flora and birds, we spotted the emerald toucanet which, when flying, looks like a banana followed by a green bird. In the village, we had a tour of the land, and felt the temperature difference between the land that was completely cleared for monoculture crops, and the land that implemented rotational grazing. We have learned about rotational grazing in our environmental science classes at EMU, and we enjoyed seeing it in practice.
On our last day of work a group from Lanquín came to perform a Mayan ceremony in the cave. We had the privilege of joining the group. The ceremony was a celebration of the relationship between the land and the people. During the hike to the cave, we stopped at various points where members of the group stopped to feel the moss and kiss the rocks, this intentionally reminded me just how intertwined humans and the land are. Once we arrived at the cave we were offered tamales and welcomed to observe the ceremony, which included music and prayers. We were thankful to be welcomed into a sacred space and ceremony.
As I write we are on our way back via bus through the Guatemalan countryside. We are physically tired from our work, but a week and a half of living, working, and learning in the cloud forest has recharged us spiritually and mentally for the last few weeks of this semester.
-Ally Welty Peachey
Eli Ours and I spent out community engagement week with an organization called Utz K’aslimmal, which is focused on community development and preserving traditional practices for farming and construction. We also spent a portion of our time assisting with and learning from a local community school geared towards reinforcing what the children learn in the national school system and working with local women. Our main learning from our ten days there in Santiago was to remember that all grand measures of progress must begin with small-scale change, and that the work we do on an individual level absolutely does matter. The other highlight of our trip was the opportunity to see a quetzal, the national bird of Guatemala. Quetzales are rare birds, symbolic of freedom and hope for the Guatemalan people because it is impossible to keep them in captivity. The gorgeous birds absolutely lived up to their reputation as the jewels of the Guatemalan highlands, and we could not have been more excited to have the opportunity to see one in person.
– Lane Burkholder
Ella and I spent our 10 days in Colotenango with Association Pop No’j. Pop No’j has four programs: migration, women, youth, and land. We worked most with the migration team. We spent about half our days in the office and the other half visiting nearby villages. When we were in the office, we helped prepare materials for future activities, observed visits with families, and sat in on meetings. When we were out of the office, we saw Pop No’j’s outreach process, met with another organization that does similar work with women, and helped with one of their workshops at a nearby school. One of the biggest learnings from our time here was how much migration impacts every person here.
– Kate Krabill
Arelys and I spent time in Jacaltenango working with Pop Noj. Pop Noj works with people who have returned from the US after migrating, providing psycho-social support as they adapt to Guatemalan culture. We spent time educating schools, groups of women, and visiting homes in the highland neighborhoods handing out pamphlets about the organization. Some important learnings that we took away were the complexities of immigrating as people of indigenous communities and reconciling with how common the migration conversation is for kids.
– Hollyn Miller
Mana and Naomi spent a week in Carchá
working with ODIGUA and the families they saw,
Every morning they arrived at work at eight,
sorting seeds and visiting villages—work they appreciate!
After a long day at work and needing a break,
they went home to their big family and danced, played, and ate.
They learned some Q’eqchi and about their family’s past,
especially about what gave them enough strength to last.
That family death and poverty pushed them away,
but steady job offers and a strong community made them stay
They got to see a lot of chickens and babies too,
but other days they counted seeds the whole day through!
And although they got tired of locked bathrooms at night,
the fun kids and banter kept them feeling alright.
Thank you Carchá for such a fun week—
We wish you the best, and ‘till next time, Quan Chic!
-Mariana Acosta
Holy Week in Guatemala
The past week we traveled out to Chichicastenango and around Lago Atitlan. We left on the tails of our goodbyes to host families and the end of Spanish classes, so the week was a real change of pace. Throughout the week we saw examples of hope being held with pain, a contradiction that has commonly come up throughout the semester.
In Chichicastenango, we visited an organization called Ruth and Noemi. The founder, Diego, explained to us that it began during the internal war after the area was bombed. Diego returned to Chichi after the bombings, once the military was allowing people in, and found that many of his friends had lost family members. The violence in the area combined with the disappearances by military forces had left many women as widowed single mothers. He saw an urgent need in his community and decided to go to Quetzaltenango, a nearby city, to find help. He returned with some bolts of string and a plan: if the women would weave using the string he brought them, he could take it and sell it for them. Slowly this plan came into action and more women joined in. It was and continues to be an avenue for women’s empowerment through economic independence. Now, Ruth and Noemi is connected with Ten Thousand Villages and involves over 30 families. The women of Ruth and Noemi are a remarkable example of resilience in the face of violence and adversity. In the wake of so much loss they found a way forward, together.
Next, we took a boat ride over to Santiago, Atitlan where we spent two days with ANADESA. ANADESA is an organization that was born after Hurricane Stan brought devastating mudslides to Santiago that destroyed many homes and killed over 250 people. Women from the community of Panabaj came together to figure out how they would rebuild. The group helped many families relocate to the nearby neighborhood of Chuk Muk, and now continues projects of education and economic independence for women.
While in Santiago, we also visited the Peace Park which is situated beside ANADESA. A man named Juan came to talk with us about the park’s origins and significance. The peace park was built to memorialize and honor the lives of those who died in the fight to demilitarize Santiago, two of whom were his teenage students. After decades of military violence, a few soldiers drunkenly roamed the town wreaking havoc. This was the tipping point for Santiago. That same night, thousands of people gathered, armed themselves with white flags, and marched to the military base in protest. As they peacefully protested, the military opened fire. The massacre triggered a powerful mobilization of Santiago. The next day, over 30,000 people had thumb-print-signed a petition to remove the military. After two weeks of protest, the military left Santiago, making it the first area to be demilitarized during the internal war. As Juan explained this history, I was struck by his eagerness to share about this very painful part of his life. Towards the end, I asked him how he feels the community as a whole remembers this time. He immediately responded saying that the young people are not interested in our history, now money is the king that rules their lives. Looking at the Peace Park memorial that has been left unkept and run down, the truth of Juan’s words was clear.
Guatemala has a complex history riddled with suffering, often at the hands of the US, and resilience. There have been so many efforts, like the Peace Park, to memorialize the harm that has been done. The following day we did an exercise in EMU class that personified truth, mercy, justice, and peace. Toward the end, we tried to decide where in the room each one would be to describe the current state of Guatemala. My first thought was to put truth front and center. We have learned about and visited so many projects that have brought the stories of what people endured during the war to light; the REMHI project, the Human Rights office, museums, documentaries, and memorials. As others weighed in, I began realizing my original stance was representative of the Guatemala I have seen in the last three months, not the true picture of Guatemala. The work of truth-telling has been done, but it is now sitting in the corner collecting dust. Juan’s words kept ringing through my ears as I thought about the importance of remembering. We cannot have peace without mercy to reconcile the harm, and we cannot have mercy unless justice is being actively worked towards, and we cannot have justice until the truth is seen and remembered. These four elements— justice, mercy, peace, and truth— must work in tandem because without all four present, none can properly be carried out. I left the session thinking about my role as a young person in these processes. The US has her own history of governmental oppression. How can I play my part in remembering and honoring the suffering and resilience in my own country’s past?
We spent the next few days around Lago Atitlan where we visited and learned about the cooperatives they have in San Juan. The coops take advantage of tourism in the area by banding together and standardizing their services to give everyone enough business. To me, it seems like a genius way to allow for tourism to positively impact the local economy instead of the massive companies that take advantage of land and people to earn more money.
We ended our week in Antigua, a notable destination to experience Holy Week. The small city was teaming with tourists and Catholics. The cobblestone streets were decorated with intricate “alfombra” designs made from flower petals and colorful sand. At all hours of the day and night, processions were being carried out. They often consisted of horses, men carrying 20-foot long wooden floats with various biblical scenes displayed on top, a band, women clearing the way for the float, or carrying lanterns. The processions would march right on top of the gorgeous sand and flower carpets and at the end of each one, a clean-up crew would shovel the trampled remains into a truck bed. Soon you would see a group assembling to build another carpet, a multi-hour long process. It was an incredibly coordinated operation requiring hundreds of people’s cooperation and organization.
Throughout the semester, we have attempted to tackle the theme of trauma and resilience, and this week was no different. There are times I’ve felt very pessimistic and leaned heavy on the dark realities we learn about, unable to see the ways there is also hope. At this point in the semester, however, it has become very clear that where there is pain and suffering, there is also hope and resilience, and that doesn’t need to be a contradiction. Somehow, we must find a way to hold both the pain and the joy, the suffering and the resilience, and the painful past with hope for the future. It is the only way we can sustainably and equitably move forward.
–Maria Longenecker
Our families have been an integral part of our Guatemalan experience. At first, the idea of staying and living with a family we had never met before in an entirely new country was a bit frightening for a majority of us. The cultural and language barriers seemed to be the biggest worries, but once meeting our families we realized we were so, so welcomed. Everyone was received with open arms and truly treated like a family member. In my own experience, I shared a host family with my on-campus roommate and we’re both so grateful! We now have amazing memories of an amazing family that we get to share forever. Our family taught us what a community within a family looks like. Our host mom especially showed us what it means to be a kind and sharing person with everyone around her. She is the most selfless and caring being I have met, and I’m extremely grateful to have been her host daughter for two months. Saying goodbye was such a heartbreak! I believe I reflect all of my peers by saying that our host families truly became our families and a little piece of home in Guatemala.
Poema:
Panorama
Querida casita en San Cristóbal
Gracias por tu amabilidad
Y por el amor que nos enseñaste
Gracias por recibirnos con un abrazo fuerte
que fue acompañado por perros ladrando
y cuetes ruidosos
Gracias por tener una panadería tan cerca
Siempre teniendo pan fresco y calientito
Gracias por mi cuarto y terraza
Desde donde podía ver el hermoso paisaje de un volcán
Gracias por las desayunos, almuerzos y cenas en familia
Gracias a nuestra familia por demostrarnos el amor Guatemalteco
Cuanto los extrañare familia y casita en Panorama
-Arelys Martinez Fabian
Plunging into Cultural Learning
Guatemala is a paradoxical paradise. That’s what Israel Ortiz told us on the first day of orientation in the second-floor CASAS meeting room. I remember sitting in that room, full of excitement. I was ready to fully plunge into this new paradise.
Three weeks later I’m panicking while clinging to a rock with all my strength, almost fully submerged in the rapids of Rio Azul in Huehuetenango. Maybe I plunged in a little too literally. I had been flying my drone through the river’s gorge to capture the splendor when a gust of wind took my drone directly into a tree where it then crash-landed on the opposite bank of the river where I stood helpless with the controller. One of our leaders decided to traverse the raging river to recover my drone. Feeling bad about the predicament I had caused, I clamored along the bank to offer him a hand. The next thing I knew I had slipped into the river. I managed to grab hold of a rock before being swept away. The current was so strong it took all my strength to keep from being pulled under. I was terrified. Thankfully, Nate and Josh were nearby to pull me out. The drone miraculously recovered with only 24 hours of trusty rice treatment. Paradoxically, our leader and my drone had made it back to the bank safely while my rescue attempt had put me in a perilous situation.
Along with river expeditions, a part of daily Guatemala life is navigating the public bus system. To catch the transurbano, we flag down the buses with an arm wave. The bus will normally pull over, but if it doesn’t, do not run across three lanes of traffic to catch it. I am not speaking from experience. It’s standard to be safe with your belongings on the transurbano by putting your backpack in front. I learned the importance of this simple safety hack when my phone was pickpocketed right out of my backpack by two women while disembarking from a crowded bus. My heart sank when I looked down at my backpack and saw the zipper unzipped and the pocket open wide. Moments of tranquility in our routine activities can become quickly intertwined with moments of vulnerability.
And while explorations to new regions of Guatemala and navigating the public bus system are great ways to learn about culture, the greatest cultural learnings come from my lovely host family. Every evening they send me to buy tortillas from down the street. When I asked them how often they buy tortillas, they told me three times a day. Since I have arrived, we have yet to go a meal without them. That’s why I found it oddly comforting when we went out to eat at Pollo Campero and my mom snuck out a bag of warm tortillas from her purse when our food arrived. My host family is first-time hosts and very excited to show me about their culture and family. That’s why they did not hesitate at my cousin’s birthday party to push me in front of the crowd for a dance competition hosted by a clown. I didn’t know the dance, or the song being played, so I made up my own moves while the crowd of 50 onlookers laughed. I was only a little embarrassed.
Intercultural is hard. I have been willing myself to be the easy-going, traveler, badass girl of my dreams. And I am her. But I am also lonely and sad and tired. I hope I don’t forget this—what it’s like to be here. The good and the bad. Adjusting to a new culture is difficult, but at the same time, it is so wonderful. It’s like some paradoxical paradise or something, and I’m grateful that I fully plunged in.
-Mariana Acosta
During the week of spring break for the rest of EMU, the Guatemala intercultural students had the chance to travel in small groups around Guatemala, Belize, and El Salvador. We planned the trips ourselves and were given the opportunity to go anywhere we wanted (with the approval of our leaders, of course). Here’s a short summary from each group about their trip!
Ally, Miranda, and Eli hiked up Indians Nose outside San Juan La Laguna and watched the sunrise.Miranda, Ally, and I spent our week around Lake Atitlán in Guatemala. We were in Panajachel for three nights before we took a boat across the lake to San Pedro where we stayed for the rest of the week. Our three main highlights of the trip were zip lining, weaving, and a sunrise hike in addition to the numerous tuk-tuk rides, exploring all the little towns around the lake, and meeting other travelers. Zip lining was an exciting experience with awesome views. It had seven different lines with two of them being long rides over the lake. During our weaving class, we each got to make our own scarf. We were all very tired and had some sore backs by the end of the six-hour class but it definitely gave us a new appreciation of what goes into handmade textiles. For the sunrise hike, we were picked up at 4:00 am along with a group of others. Indians Nose wasn’t a long hike but was very steep. The view was well worth the early morning as we all enjoyed a beautiful sunrise over the lake/volcanos while drinking organic chocolate. I’d say it was a successful week!
– Eli Ours
Lane, Arelys, Kate, and Marie Isabella went to El Salvador and learned a lot about the assassination of Catholic Bishop Romero.
The Peace is Won
The peace is won with bloodied hand and the tear-streaked cheeks of children.
The peace is bought and paid by stainless steel cages and the cries of innocence.
The peace reminds of a time not far past, of another impudent government of control.
What cost does the woman running fearless after dark believe can be justly paid, each hard-won right wrest from the freedom and life of another?
The people rejoice a cool dictator, deliverance for many and the cost of the few.
A woman chokes her cry under the bush of hidden safety, ears strained for familiar cries.
The peace is won with bloodied hands, but is held and used with clean ones.
Sunset at El Tunco, El Salvador: Lane, Kate, Arelys, Marie Isabella-Lane Burkholder
________________________________
Our group went to El Salvador for free travel. Our first stop was Santa Ana where we hiked a volcano and ate lots of pupusas. We then made our way down the coast by public bus (which was an adventure) where we settled in La Libertad. We enjoyed some days at the beach, surfing, swimming, and relaxing in the sun. Finally, we bussed over to San Salvador to learn about Monseñor Romero and visit the national artisan market and the newly opened library. We enjoyed connecting and comparing what we have been learning in Guatemala about gangs and the civil war to El Salvador. We are grateful for the people that we met along the way who were willing to help us and share with us their perspectives, and the delicious pupusas.
– Hollyn Miller
Rose garden created to remember the 6 Jesuits and 2 women murdered, Centro Monseñor Romero at Universidad Centroamericana
Semuc Champey!Naomi Kratzer, Ella Brubaker, and I decided to stay in Guatemala for our free travel week to explore some of the northeastern region of the country. We spent a day splashing around in the crystalline pools of Semuc Champey (look it up!) tucked deep into the jungle of Alta Verapaz. Swimming through a cave while attempting to keep alive the only light source (a candle), and cliff jumping by a waterfall straight from a storybook were some other highlights. But nothing good comes easy, as we spent the good part of two days getting to and from Semuc. A valuable lesson we learned during our week was to add about 3 hours on top of every ETA, except for bus rides helmed by a driver who either had no fear or didn’t know where the brake was.
After our time in the jungle pools, we continued our northeast trek to Rio Dulce, where we canoed and explored El Castillo de San Felipe, a fortress built in 1652 to fend off pirates (spoiler alert: the pirates won). We also spent some time in Livingston, a Caribbean coastal town only reachable by a boat ride through the river, flanked by jungle, granite cliffs, and some mean-looking pelicans. Livingston is certainly a unique place, with a large Garífuna presence (look it up!) and the only white sand beach in Guatemala, which like most things in this area, is only accessible by a boat ride.
And just as we were safely tucked in our return bus home, we had our last adventure as our 5-hour trip stretched painfully into 8 due to a broken down bus. But on the bright side, I got to have my first ride in a double-decker bus, which thankfully rescued us.
All in all, we returned to Guatemala City content with our adventures and largely unscathed, (minus Naomi’s pinky toe). What a week!
– Leah Beachey
This past week, Nate, Mana, and I (Joshua) had the opportunity to travel to Belize for our week of free travel. Belize is, quite simply, an entirely different culture, despite just recently having been a part of Guatemala. While there, we got to experience what is known as “Garífuna” culture, characterized by intensely syncopated music, a different style of food, and a grand mixture of languages – English, Creole, and Spanish.
In between snorkeling with nurse sharks, meeting Dutch people,
Mana, Nate, and Joshua at Cockscomb Jaguar Preserve, Belize hiking up mountains, and swimming in waterfalls, we were able to get to know this culture a little better. I had a conversation on a bus with a local man about the immigration situation in Belize – it is far different from the situation in Guatemala. The citizens of Belize easily obtain visas and come to work in the US, frequently returning home to build houses and support their families. Questions have been raised recently about the purpose of travel. For me, this is the purpose of travel – to come to know and understand the many different people of the world and their situations – because that is something that the world is often sorely lacking.
– Joshua Stucky
10 March 2024
Education – Investing in the future
Two weeks ago our group focused on education in Guatemala. We listened to a presentation and got a tour at Casa Horeb about the school program they run called EduVida. They offer free classes for people of all ages who are looking to further their education as they see their studies as something to help them become someone. Part of EduVida’s work is to empower their students by acknowledging all that they already have to offer the world while also teaching them technological skills through computers and online platforms that will equip them to work and contribute in a way that modern society demands. Some of the struggles EduVida faces is maintaining a sustainable team of volunteer
Photo: Elaine Zook Bargeteachers and supporting dropout students who can’t afford to make ends meet while working a job, supporting a family & investing in their future through school. While holding all of these obstacles, there are many signs of hope amidst the work that EduVida is doing. One that has stuck with me is a volunteer teacher in his 70s who teaches online classes while also battling cancer. His persistence and investment in his community is something that will have lasting effects for the next generations.
We also visited Escuela Oficial Urbana Mixta where 300 children attend school every day. They offer morning classes held by 12 teachers and afternoon classes held by 10 teachers. In Guatemala, the government spends $809 per student yearly as opposed to $16,000 per student in the US. This leaves teachers with a limited budget to supply the classroom and also leaves classes with an average size of 40-60 kids. For many students, school is the last time to be a kid and most don’t even move past 6th grade, as it is not required. This specific school is making an effort to support their families. They offer night, weekend, and even radio classes to students who cannot come to school during the day. They are also intentional about reaching out to families who have kids at risk of joining gangs. Doing intentional work like this is really hard to do with minimal support and aid from the government. But this school is one of the many signs of resilience throughout Guatemala where people choose to lean on one another and support their communities in the ways they can.
Visiting these places of learning motivated me to think of the way education is viewed here in Guatemala. Something EduVida emphasized was the way students view education as a luxury. Things must fall into place for their families to be able to experience this luxury. If their parent needs help working the family business during the day, then that comes first. If one parent has left for the US and there are kids that need to be looked after, then that means holding off on basic education to support the family. This reality comes in many forms for families in Guatemala.
Photo: Ella BrubakerI can’t help but think of the ways generational trauma is impacting the opportunities kids and even adults have to invest in their education. I dream of the ways that this reality is shifting little by little because of organizations like these. I acknowledge the contrast in experiences between people in the US, recognizing all the corruptness of our US influence that has led Guatemalans to this point. And I question the ways we can aspire to be change agents to provide the education that everybody deserves. As university students, we continue to ask these questions and to learn about the journeys that are much different from our own.
–Hollyn Miller
Legacy of the armed conflict
This week (February 18-23) we focused on human rights and learned about Bishop Gerardi. He was a significant person in Guatemala who focused on uncovering the human rights violations committed by the military upon the indigenous community in the 1960s. We watched a documentary about the murder of Monsignor Gerardi that was called, “The Art of Political Murder.” The documentary discussed the massive impact many people faced when Gerardi died in 1998, as well as the impunity and lack of fear
Bishop Gerardi – Foto: Prensa Libre Guatemalaof repercussions the military displayed. Gerardi was a person who provided a voice to many people who were not allowed to speak about their pain and what happened to their community. During the years of civil war (1960–1996) the military was displacing, brutally murdering, and trying to wipe out the indigenous communities. Their stated intentions were to eradicate the enemy known as the “Guerillas”, however, Gerardi devoted himself to publicizing the truth and the true intentions of the massacres. A statistical fact that astonished me was that the military caused 93% of the war’s atrocities, while the guerillas only caused 3% and the last 4% remaining was unknown. It spoke volumes about how much destruction and trauma the military caused and that many people still face today.
The next day we went to Monsignor Gerardis’ office and talked to one of the team members. We asked if they still face the danger of working with human rights. She discussed how two weeks ago they were robbed and their computers were the only things that were stolen. They believed it was politically motivated and that the thieves were somehow related to the military. Even today there is the governmental threat of hiding secrets of violations that happened.
Overall this week was full of overwhelming information on how much damage the military did, and how there are communities still affected by it to this day.
–Marie Isabella Spaulding
23 February 2024
Our most recent trip took us north. We spent a full seven days split between the northern rainforests of Tikal and the high-altitude city of Cobán in Alta Vera Paz. The theme for the week was Nature & Environment, so we visited the ancient Mayan Ruins in Tikal National Park and lived with an organization called Community Cloud Forest Conservation for a few days as well.
Tikal
Photo: Mana AcostaThe Tikal visit was incredible- it is humbling to look upwards at stone structures that were built 1.5 thousand years ago, more or less, and not know much about the society that built them. In the US we tear down large buildings about every 100-150 years, and our houses only after about 50-70 years! I was glad to hear that the park gets many visitors each year because the ancient Mayan culture is an important history to continue sharing, especially as the modern indigenous culture continues to change and grow in this country. On the flip side, tourism from the park requires hotels and roads with carbon emissions and noise that continue to divide the Petén rainforest into smaller and smaller chunks. Sigh… there are many paradoxes in this country. Our tour guide was a wealth of knowledge and he spoke English the entire tour which was something that he learned during the Pandemic. The English language is a very helpful tool in the Guatemalan workforce and is increasingly more valuable for employment within the tourism sector.
The most memorable part of the trip for me was our time in the mountains outside of Cobán. We spent a full 3 days living at CCFC, an organization that focuses on sustainable living through a variety of outlets. Their WALC program educates Indigenous women about sustainable practices which they bring back to their villages, and at the same time promotes leadership through teaching and program management. The lodge also hosts elementary schoolers throughout the entire
Community Cloud Forest Conservation Photo: Mana AcostaCobán region for 3-4 days as a form of outdoor education and advocacy. The entire establishment harnesses energy from hydroelectric and solar energy sources. The surrounding land also provides a large portion of their food so that there are days on end when no one needs to drive into town. This aspect of their program was pretty impressive at such a large scale! A really cool part of our stay was getting assigned compañeras, women from the surrounding villages, around our age, who were teachers in the WALC program. It was fun to make connections through a language that for most of us was not our first (most of the womens’ first language was not Spanish, but a language from their villages like Q’eqchi and Quiché). Much of what I learned from that trip came from my new friend, Sara.
The big question that we brushed up against was what to do about the ominous climate crisis. The CCFC is an incredible example of action and advocacy and we were reminded once again of our own ability to create change. How could action and advocacy translate into our own lives as college students in Harrisonburg and beyond? This is always a daunting question. There were points of despair, and also doubts in the permanency of our inspired ideas. Change takes time and work. It can seem like an uphill battle to change a lifestyle, and guilt can appear when we feel like we aren’t doing enough.
A comment from someone in the group added a new perspective: What if the things that we “add” to our lives are actually moments for mental health and rest? What if our tiny steps in climate action provide moments of solitude or connection with our environment? The quietness of hanging clothes on the line. The rhythm that comes with digging a row of holes for seeds. The breaths of fresh air that accompany your walk to work. These actions in our lives do require a little more time from our packed days, but they can also provide necessary moments of respite and solitude that feed our souls, not drain them.
So, that is a question that I continue to mull over. Climate action and advocacy looks different for everyone, and each person knows their limits. But perhaps looking at the way forward through this mental health lens could provide a healthier plan and brighter outlook for our engagement in this. I hope to continue thinking and talking about these possibilities!
And now, on to the next week.
– Naomi Kratzer
Leave This Blank:Leave This Blank Too:Do Not Change This:Your email:
9 February 2024
As part of our intercultural experience, we are taking Spanish classes for about four hours every morning through CASAS, or Central America Study and Service cultural immersion program. We are in small groups and paired up with a teacher. So far, we have learned through cooking, singing Guatemalan songs, acting out skits, reading Central American literature, and even a trip to the zoo, of course in addition to traditional classroom learning. I like the immersive atmosphere of learning in this way, but I also deeply appreciate how we are in classes small enough that we can ask our teachers questions about life in Guatemala and get real answers.
The more we study Spanish, the more I, an English Education major, come to appreciate English and the study of language. Let me explain.
My whole life I have loved language. I love writing, reading, and communicating my point clearly. I love to read a well-written book, compose a perfectly flowing essay, or eloquently tell others what I want them to know. I appreciate language. I started appreciating language more when I took Introduction to Linguistics (shoutout Wendell Shank) last spring. It was a wonderful class that taught me the importance of parts of speech and just how differently languages communicate the same idea. Being in Guatemala has only grown that appreciation more. For example, I love that the sentence in Spanish “yo se quiero darle” doesn’t translate perfectly to English. If we translated it word for word, we would hear: “I you want to give it.” The idea is the same — “I want to give it to you” — but we can’t say it exactly the same way in both languages. I think that is fascinating. In English, you just follow right along with the idea from point A to point B. In Spanish you almost have to listen to the whole sentence before you can fully understand what the person is trying to say. If you’re not getting the whole sentence, you’re grasping at straws (words) trying to figure out what is going on.
In my head, Spanish is round. It’s all round vowels and flowing consonants. I love the way that Spanish just falls and tumbles off the tongue. On the contrary, English is all sharp corners: pointy consonants and open vowels (Listen to a native Spanish speaker try to say “iron” or “uncle” or “tree” in English and you’ll know what I mean). Spanish flows and gurgles while English gets straight to the point and passing decorum. I appreciate the ways that Spanish takes its time getting to the point while English charges forward. I’m not trying to say here that one language is better than the other, I’m just trying to convey how it looks in my head.
One of my frustrations with being here in Guatemala is that I have limited Spanish and so I cannot always understand everything that people are saying or express what I want to say to its fullest extent. In many ways I’m back to the basics. I can only say what I have the vocabulary for. It’s so frustrating. I have to describe what I want to say or even turn to Google Translate (which I try to avoid as much as possible) and even then sometimes people don’t understand. It’s disheartening. But here’s the thing: I’m learning like a sponge. I feel like my brain is absorbing so much Spanish every day simply because I have to. What vocabulary I do have is enough to make good connections with new friends and my host family. Some days are harder than others, as it is anywhere else. But what I do have is enough to make good connections with people who are so gracious and so patient when I don’t understand. Language builds bridges and I’ve never seen that more in my life than during my three short weeks in Guatemala.
What I have come to appreciate most about language is the way it can connect and alienate people all at the same time. For example, I wouldn’t be able to get to know my host family at all if I didn’t speak Spanish. I have limited Spanish so I cannot express all I want to express, but I’ve got the basics and that’s enough as I learn more. I also wouldn’t be able to understand or appreciate this country and its culture to its fullest extent if I didn’t understand the language and the way that people who speak Spanish think. At the same time, language can alienate people. My words, no matter the language, can rub salt in a wound or open a new one. Words can hurt and often the wounds caused by words take the longest to heal.
So I did what any good English major does with these reflections: I wrote a poem. It’s below in both English and Spanish, translated with the help of Elena Zook Barge.
The words of my language
tumble off my tongue
and into the world.
The words of my language
I hold so dear
for the beauty of connection
and of expression that they give me.
I do not know
the words of your language.
The words of my language
fall short.
But I must build a bridge.
I must make a connection.
And so I learn.
I read the words
I write the words
I hear the words
I speak the words
of your language.
There is a jumbled mess
But soon I make sense.
Soon I unravel
the tangled threads
of your language.
And soon,
your language
becomes my language.
And soon,
the words of your language
tumble off my tongue
and a bridge is built.
-Miranda Beidler
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5 February 2024
Last Saturday through Wednesday, our group had the opportunity to visit Huehuetenango and Jacaltenango, both located in the Western highlands of Guatemala. The five to six-hour drive to Huehuetenango was rough for those who get carsick easily, but beautiful as we observed tree-laden mountains and stunning volcanoes along the way. In Huehuetenango, we stopped to visit the archeological site Zaculeu, which had ancient Mayan temples we
Zaculeu Photo – N. Kratzercould climb. Unfortunately, the original temples were covered in concrete, turning them into a playground for tourists. The beauty of the original structures will now always be hidden under a “modern” shell. I wonder what other historical and cultural sites have been “fixed” to accommodate tourist interest. After lunch, we drove about four more hours to Jacaltenango, a beautiful area full of trees and with small streets that our bus struggled to fit in. While we were in Jacaltenango, we visited Rio Azul, swam in a pool, and ate street food at the Féria there.
I think that for many, the beginning of the trip represented a break from the full schedule of classes and a chance to explore more of Guatemala. However, the overall purpose of the trip was much more important than seeing more breathtaking scenery. On Monday we visited Pop No’j, an organization that empowers Mayan
Group at Rio Azul Photo – CASAScommunities by encouraging their participation in advocating for their rights and accompanying them in their journey to have a better life. They also walk alongside children and adolescents who have been deported or returned voluntarily from the United States. To start our activities with them, they invited us to participate in a Mayan practice, where six candles of different colors are lit to recognize the energy that the day carries.
Mayan ceremonial candles Photo – M. BeidlerAfter learning about their various programs, we met with Robby and Ari, a family they have worked with. Robby is a twelve-year-old boy who migrated to the United States with his mom but had to take care of himself there, because his mom had to work. Because of this lack of support, he along with an older cousin, journeyed back to Guatemala together. His older sister, Ari, who is now his guardian, shared that he had a lot of trauma when he returned. When asked about the migration process, she said that the migration journey is not worth it because it affects everyone and only creates more trauma for families. She believes that there needs to be more investment in communities here, because otherwise, people will continue migrating for any possible chance of a better life. I am grateful for the family’s willingness to share, and I think it was an important reminder of the impact migration has on kids and young adults. We have to remember that they are one story of many and that many children do not have support from organizations like Pop No’j or family members once they return.
The next day we were going to visit one of the borders between Guatemala and Mexico. However, because narcotraffickers had taken over the highway it was recommended that we not go. Our group was privileged to have connections that warned us of the narco takeover, but many migrants do not have that opportunity. Regardless, many people in transit would continue even if there was danger to their safety or a huge risk of extortion and physical violence. While we were leaving Jacaltenango, our bus was stopped by the police to check our driver’s papers. We learned that police routinely stop bigger vehicles, because they are checking for any migrants who might be aboard. I cannot imagine the fear that people must face every time a bus they are on is stopped. If they are caught, they will be returned to the country they left.
Before this trip, I had not thought in depth about what the process of returning to a country after deportation would be like. On Thursday we met with the organization TE CONECTA, who help people get jobs after being returned. We learned that one to three chartered planes of around 100 deported people arrive each day in Guatemala. That means that around 100,000 people are returned to the country they left every year, and those numbers are just for Guatemala. Around 70% of people who returned were stopped at some point on their journey and 30% were already living in the United States. When people arrive at the Guatemala airport after having usually been detained for weeks or months, they are given a speech and then just sent off onto the street. TE CONECTA always has someone at the airport who helps with phone calls for families and connecting people with their services. They help people with getting the necessary documentation for jobs, because often people return without any form of I.D. or resume with them.
Our last meeting with an organization this past week was at Casa del Migrante. They are a shelter mainly for people who are in transit and can house 100-120 people each day. They shared with us that hearing the stories of people is often very difficult. Right now, a lot of people are leaving Venezuela and have to cross the jungle to reach Guatemala. Around 1,500-2,000 people try to cross the jungle between Colombia and Panama, and around 75-100 die daily. Before we left, I noticed a sign on the wall in Casa del Migrante that said “Ninguna persona es ilegal” (No person is illegal). The sign to me felt like a reaffirmation of people’s dignity. Many people are fleeing because they do not have economic opportunities or they are escaping violence, but those are only two of the many reasons for migration. People have gone through a physically and mentally draining experience and every step of the way they are met with dehumanizing rhetoric. While what we learned is only a small part of the migration process I would encourage people to do more research on migration and approach the topic with an open mind.
-Ella Brubaker
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More Information on what we have learned about migration:
- https://greatcities.uic.edu/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/The-Current-Migrant-Crisis-Report-Finalized-2.pdf
- https://www.aljazeera.com/news/2024/1/4/the-price-of-passage-migrants-fear-threat-of-extortion-in-guatemala
Information on the organizations we visited:
-Pop No’j: https://www.asociacionpopnoj.org/
-Te CONECTA: https://www.teconecta.org.gt/
-Casa del Migrante: https://scalabriniguate.org/homepage/
After 6 weeks in Lithuania, all 17 of us EMU students have gone our separate ways for the rest of the summer. It’s been strange to go from seeing each other every day to not at all. One of the phrases that Jerry Holsopple, our leader, repeated throughout the trip was “History is complicated.” We … Continue reading Lithuania: Closing Thoughts →
Old San Juan On the second day of the trip, we toured Old San Juan. We were able to explore a lot of different historical sites and learn more about the origins of the architecture and wildlife of Puerto Rico. The streets of Puerto Rico are filled with vibrant colors and heavily decorated. This is … Continue reading Puerto Rico 2023 →
As this is our last week here, I’m feeling a lot of mixed feelings. Especially this week, we’ve been focusing on the theme of gratitude. As I write this, we’re getting ready to have our final celebration tonight. It’ll be a great opportunity to celebrate everyone who helped make this trip possible and have a … Continue reading Middle East: Gratitude →
From May 27 to June 4 we took a trip through Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia. We started by spending one night in Kaunas, Lithuania before going to Vilnius, Lithuania for about 3 days. Then, we traveled to Riga where we spent 2 nights before making our way to Tallinn, Estonia for 2 nights. Some students … Continue reading Lithuania: Baltic states tour →
Free Travel Reflections This week was our free travel week- our big group split into several smaller ones, traveling to various different places. I was a part of a group of five that went to Greece! We left very early Monday morning, drove to the airport and were in Athens by Monday morning. We had … Continue reading Middle East: Explore →
On Saturday we were able to visit the Ayalon-Canada Park in what is, under international law, legally the West Bank, but is annexed by Israel. As we traveled to the park, we passed through the Bethlehem checkpoint where an Israeli soldier boarded our bus, checked our passports, and let us pass. That moment was one … Continue reading Middle East: Engage →
We’ve officially made it to the halfway point of our trip! Our week started off with our 4 days of classes (Arabic and seminar). Although I do enjoy both of those classes, I was definitely more entertained with our travels this week. The first place we went to was Aida Refugee Camp in Bethlehem. Dr. … Continue reading Middle East: Sumud and hope →
Traveling to a new place can always be overwhelming. You are thrown into a new culture with hardly any background and have to adjust to new food, a different language, a new setting, and new people. One of the beautiful things about an intercultural experience is that everyone is experiencing the same things and therefore we can lean on each other when times are difficult. No one in our group had been to Lithuania before or experienced Baltic culture. When we left the United States on May 10th, a good majority of us did not know each other super well, but navigating a new place has required us to work together. We have collaborated when we get on the wrong bus and end up on the opposite side of town, or try to understand the menu at a Lithuanian restaurant. I’m sure that all of us have said, “Sorry, I don’t speak Lithuanian” or, “Do you speak English?” more times than we can count. During our time in Klaipeda, we have been staying at LCC International University and living with other college students who are also taking summer courses. Our roommates are from places such as Ukraine, Armenia, Belarus, Albania, Kazakhstan, Russia, and Pakistan. Even though we are thrown into Lithuanian culture, it has been a unique experience to interact with other students from so many cultures. In our living situations, most of us are with one other EMU student and two LCC students. There are also 7 LCC students who are taking our classes with us so it has been a good opportunity to get to know them and hear their stories and perspectives. I have never traveled outside of the United States so it has been easy for me to only see the world through my American perspective but these short weeks of being here have shown me that there are many important things that I have been neglecting. My daily issues seem trivial and I am humbled by the challenges that people from this area of the world have been through in recent history. While most of us probably wouldn’t have envisioned spending six weeks of our summer in a dorm, it has been a great learning experience to interact with people from other cultures and understand the world from a new perspective.
– Megan Miller
One of the coolest things about our intercultural is all of the new places we’re getting to see. We’re on our 9-day trip throughout Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia right now, but first I want to focus on where we’ve been spending our first few weeks. LCC is in Klaipeda, which is the third largest city in Lithuania. Most days after class we walk into the old part of the city, where there are lots of cafes or restaurants that we’ve gotten to try. Old Town is a really neat area to explore, and it’s fairly easy to navigate, although it was intimidating at first. Luckily, almost all of the people I’ve interacted with have been able to speak at least a little bit of English, so simple things like ordering food have not been a problem. The old part of town goes along the riverbank, and several students in the group have enjoyed meals by the water. We’re almost exactly halfway done, and have a lot of fun places left to see!
-Daisy Buller
While in Lithuania, our group has had the opportunity to try many different dishes that we can’t typically find back home in the United States. Potatoes are very common here, and I don’t think it is a stretch to say that the group has managed to eat what is likely dozens of potatoes already in the two short weeks that we have spent here in Lithuania. Potato pancakes stuffed with pork remain one of our favorite local dishes, known as bulvinai blynai in the Lithuanian language. Another local dish that many students tried is called šaltibarščių sriuba. Rising senior Lizzy Kirkton said about this dish, “I was looking forward to trying beet soup here because it is so popular here and it was definitely worth it. It was good and… [was] more of a dill dip for the hot potatoes that came on the side.” Overall, it has been very fun trying all of the different foods here, and we are all looking forward to trying even more dishes in all of the Baltic countries as the trip continues!
– Abby Kaufman
For our first few weeks of classes, we would have a lecture from Jerry from 9:00 AM -12:15 PM in an LCC classroom. Including the students at LCC we have 24 people in our class. Our lectures consist of learning about photography, religion, and the history of Lithuania, mainly focusing on the Holocaust and Soviet occupation. The majority of us had never used a camera aside from our phones before, so the last few weeks have definitely been a learning experience. In addition, many of the US students had no prior knowledge of the impact that the Holocaust and Soviet occupation had on Lithuania and Eastern Europe as a whole, due to traditional US history education. One of the most important things we have learned is that, by percentage, Lithuania lost the second most of its Jewish population with over 200 mass killing sites across the country. The first few weeks of classes served as a crash course on our intercultural focus in order to prepare us for our 9-day trip, so we have learned many new skills and knowledge that have broadened our worldview already.
-Lizzy Kirkton
We are beginning to find our rhythm, waking up for breakfast at 7:30am, attending Arabic class, and then our seminar class after lunch with potential evening adventures. I have deeply enjoyed building new friendships and learning new things about amazing people in our group and locally in Beit Sahour. The first excitement of the week … Continue reading Middle East: Complexities and pleasures of life in Beit Sahour →
A few photos from the first 10 days!
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Around Klaipeda – scroll through the album to see a few moments from these first two weeks.
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April 13-17
As we began to conclude our time in South Africa we spent three days in St. Lucia, to have a time of reflection. During this time we had the chance to sit as a group and engage with one another about our time in South Africa and what that means for our lives upon returning to the United States. This time was filled with many questions. Some were answered, but many were left for us to sit with and ponder. What are we bringing back with us? How has this country changed us? How does a South African context reflect that of the United States? What do we wish to share with others about this experience? This time allowed us to think imaginatively as we reflected through the creation of images, while speaking our own truths through them. As a group, we laughed and cried in the presence of each other as we thought back on the past few months. If one thing was clear through this process it is that this country has deeply impacted our lives in one way or another.
-Molly Piwonka
April 15
On one of our nights in St Lucia, about 16 of us in the group trekked out into the night on the back of a truck through the iSimangaliso game reserve. We were taken through the park by an experienced tour guide from the area whose name escapes me now. We started off the tour guide with a bang as several hippos crossed the road in front of us in the town of St. Lucia as we were loading into the truck. Through the tour we saw a variety of different animals including chameleons, some bush buck, several kudu, and a rhino. We also finished the night with a bang as we had a close encounter with several elephants that approached our truck closely and seemed to give us a piece of their mind for being in their space. Overall it was an awesome experience with lots of great sightseeing and experiences that we will all remember well for some time to come.
-Ben Alderfer
April 18-19
We spent two days at Kruger National Park doing game drives Tuesday and Wednesday. The first day started at 4:00 in the morning, with breakfast on the bus as we drove to the game park. The highlights of what we saw during our first day were wild spotted dogs, hyenas, and a leopard. The second day was a later start as we only had to leave at 5:00 in the morning. This day was a little less exciting but we still saw elephants, hippos and crocodiles, as well as many other more common animals along the way. Some of these more common animals were impalas, giraffes and elephants. Spending two full days on the bus was exhausting but a great experience as we got to see so many wonderful animals we don’t normally get the chance to see. It was also a time of bonding as we took turns keeping watch in the front seats of the bus, yelling out whatever we saw so everyone could wake up in time to see it. These two days were a great experience and something we were all glad we got the opportunity to do.
-Grant Leichty
April 20-22
Our last days in South Africa were exactly where we started. St. Benedict’s in Johannesburg. Friday morning we had a last service with Anabaptist Network in South Africa, ANiSA, who shaped our very first three weeks. This service included communion with various types of breads, symbolizing different people of the world and several traditional South African drinks. We also were gifted beautiful graduation stoles with traditional African patterns. (Come to graduation and see them for yourselves on our senior classmates) This final service helped us reflect back on the trip and appreciate all we had done together. That evening we had the chance to go back to our original host families for one last meal. There were mixed emotions being able to see our families again while realizing the trip was finally coming to an end. The next day we packed, had one last shopping trip for souvenirs and said goodbye to the country we’d gotten to know the past three months.
-Nathan Oostland
We had the opportunity to spend one night in the Drakensberg mountains on Wednesday. We left Pietermaritzburg in the morning and arrived at the backpacker that afternoon. A group of us then went for an evening hike up the mountain. We enjoyed some gorgeous views together and had fun watching a group of baboons play from afar. After a wonderful 3 course dinner provided by our backpacker, we went to bed only for half of us to wake up at 6:00 am to do the same hike, but at sunrise. Although the trail was the same, the sun and sky made it all the more beautiful. The one downfall of our stay consisted of freezing cold showers accompanied by much cooler weather. Despite this, we left the mountains with a greater appreciation of the natural beauty in South Africa, a feeling of rejuvenation, and for those of us who didn’t dare face the showers, a slight feeling of grunge.
-Mary Kate Bomberger
Week 9, 10, & 11 (J-Bay, Mdumbi, PMB)
Spring break on the coasts of South Africa was a blast. We started off the week at Jeffreys Bay where we stayed at the Island Vibes backpacker just a stone’s throw away from the beach. The waves were wild but fun. We celebrated two birthdays there and had some time to relax and enjoy the beauty of South Africa. Early Friday morning we loaded up the bus. We drove through winding mountain roads till the asphalt turned to dirt. Then that dirt road disappeared and we had made it to Mdumbi. Mdumbi took some getting used to, especially for those who found Gecko droppings on their beds. Eventually, we all began to see the beauty of the space. It was there that we began to dig into and debrief all that we had learned and experienced so far. The mornings were a time of reflection and discussion. The evenings were a time to enjoy the beautiful rolling hills and sandy beaches.
Taken seconds before the frisbee’s fatal final flight. This hill overlooks African Enterprises, our home for the duration of our stay in PMB. Ben was the one who lost the frisbee but he didn’t pay for a new one.We have two hosts here in Pietermaritzburg. Our “little while home” is at African Enterprise’s beautiful campus of cabins, chalets, forests, and waterfalls, while Church Land Program (CLP) coordinates and guides our time in the Pietermaritzburg/Durban area. An NGO dedicated to accompanying the landless poor in their struggle for justice and dignity, CLP created our schedule and is guiding us through our time in Pietermaritzburg. CLP welcomed us warmly and led us in reflecting on the journey we’ve been on so far. We received booklets with a collection of essays, reflections, encouragements, and tributes, part CLP’s “padkos” (“food for the journey”) program. This program also includes gatherings of the CLP community, one of which we were able to attend the following week. We enjoyed a lovely evening of tasty food, wonderful conversation, and an inspiring though a poignant film about the Harlem Cultural Festival of 1969 entitled, “Summer of Soul.”
So far, we have journeyed with CLP to Edendale/Georgetown, Bombayi, and eKhenana (eKhanani?). Georgetown is one of the many communities which make up Edendale, Pietermaritzburg’s black township. At the Georgetown Library we were introduced to members of the Georgetown History Project, which seeks to research and preserve the history of the community. Unfortunately, much of this history—especially pre-colonial history—has been erased or forgotten, but this amazing group is determined to reverse the world’s stubborn amnesia about their home.
We also visited Bombayi, a community within the city of Durban, with CLP. There we meet GOLDCO (“Glory of the Last Days Community Organization”), a grassroots organization dedicated to protecting the vulnerable and feeding the hungry within their neighborhood.
In addition to the learning experiences we had this week we also did some fun activities. Our first Saturday in Pietermaritzburg we went to an aquarium and waterpark. We saw a large variety of fish, from seahorses to sharks, to eels. Then we had the opportunity to go to the waterpark. There were all sorts of slides and a lazy river. The day was a big highlight for the group.
On our second Saturday, we went zip lining at Karkloof Canopy Tours. We flew over rivers and dodged rocks and trees as we made our way through ten zip lines to the bottom of the mountain.
Week 12 (PMB)
Scene from the toxic tour. Oil is piped into the refineries from the ocean.On Monday, April 3rd, our group went on a toxic waste tour around Durban. The tour was led by the South Durban Community Environmental Alliance (SDCEA). The work of SDCEA deals with the intersectionality of environmental justice and social justice in oppressed communities. We drove around Durban looking at different oil refineries and storage units, noticing how proximate they are to residential communities. The development of the areas surrounding the refineries and plants (or lack thereof) connects directly to the legacy of apartheid, which included the forced relocation and separation of Black people, Colored people, and Indian people. These people were forced to live extremely close to the oil refineries, and the following generations are now direct recipients of an array of health implications caused by the chemicals that the plants leak underground as well as into the air. SDCEA helps surrounding communities to resist and actively fight against the toxic living environment that the refineries and pipelines create. SDCEA advocates for disparaged communities and empowers community members by educating them on hazardous chemicals and how to identify them with specialized equipment. The alliance has a vast network of people from different communities around Durban that notify leadership when something is wrong with the air or water in certain communities. The people work together to collect evidence of the toxic chemicals that were dumped into their living spaces, and they put pressure on authorities through the media and other forms of communication to hold the oil companies accountable in their waste management. SDCEA has been incredibly helpful in improving the living conditions of South Africans inside of Durban. The tour was a good opportunity for us EMU students to see some of the detrimental effects of oil plants on the surrounding land and its people, especially whenever there is a leak in the underground pipes. It was also a chance to witness some community organizing and environmental justice in action.
On Wednesday we paid a visit to CLP (Church Land Programs) at their offices and got a tour of their facilities in addition to the opportunity to meet and have conversations with all of their employees. After hearing about how individuals contributed to CLP as a whole, we came together as a full group for a processing session where we processed some of the questions that had arisen for us during our time with CLP, which covered a broad range of topics including funding for nonprofits, inequality, race, and gender.
On Thursday we attended our second contextual Bible study which was sponsored by CLP at the University of KwaZulu-Natal. We focused on 1 Kings 21, which is about King Ahab and Queen Jezebel killing Naboth in order to gain his vineyard. We unpacked the text by engaging with a series of questions, and then concluded with a discussion on the difference between racial inequality in the United States and South Africa.
On Friday our group took advantage of an extended weekend and went down to Durban for a beach day. After stocking up with some goggles we were excited to explore the ocean and the tidal pool that bordered it at the beach. Some of the group headed out to the beach to lay in the sand, while others went to the tidal pool to swim around. In the tidal pool, there were schools of fish, ranging in sizes, and some tropical. There were also coral, urchins, and many other types of sea life. Unfortunately, the coral was sharp enough that a handful of us went home with small battle scars. As the tide came in, waves would hit against the walls of the tidal pool causing huge sprays of water which was fun to play in as well. Others played in the ocean, although there was only a small flagged area that was safe, as the current and waves were pretty strong as they came into shore. After the day was over, we headed back to Pietermaritzburg to clean up, and have dinner together.
After worshiping throughout Lent with a variety of churches, we celebrated Easter this Sunday with Calvary Community Church in Pietermaritzburg. We got to be part of a joyful and creative worship service, including both English and Zulu songs that we’ve become familiar with in our time here and some familiar songs from home. The church youth put on an Easter play focusing on Jesus’ grace and healing power, which was appropriately reverent but still very joyful and funny! A small but stalwart group of us also braved the chilly fall morning to hold our own brief outdoor sunrise service. We spent the afternoon with new friends, the Philpots, learning to cook a proper South African Easter braai (cookout) and enjoying good fellowship and discussion.
-John, Caleb, Reah, and Laurel
This past week we spent our time in Hermanus, with homestays in the neighboring township Zwelilhe. We were split up among 8 host families, where we spent our evenings and early mornings. We spent the majority of our weekdays at Volmoed – an intentional community and retreat center. During that time, we took part in a contextual Bible study alongside youth from Zwelilhe who were involved in the Volmoed Youth Program, a program that cultivates youth leadership. The contextual Bible study focused on the Triumphant Entry passage found in Matthew 21. We explored themes of violence and peacebuilding through historical study, scripture re-enactment, and group discussion. We navigated how to apply these themes in our current contexts, both in South Africa and the United States.
An Ode To A Contextual Bible Study
By Molly Piwonka
Journeying towards new understanding
Collectively working to disassemble peace and violence
Cloudy concepts
Concepts of complexity
Questions arise
Is one black and the other white?
No
This dissection leaves not two, but many tiny fragments
Can one exist without the other?
Not within human understanding, but maybe beyond those limits
Did the Prince of Peace cause disruption?
Tables turned over
An act of violence?
Ideas turned on their heads
An upside-down kingdom
Human acts might need disruption
Society might need shaken
If you’re to “be woke” don’t fall into passivity’s sleepy spell
Is peace inherently good; while the other bad?
Try again
Is violence inherently bad; while the other good?
Try again
Don’t you see?
These are difficult distinctions
They depend on perception
Good; bad
All is relative
Don’t lose hope
This all takes time
Do feed on this feast of ideas
Do quench your thirst on this stream of thoughts
In time points might be woven together
Or more questions might be produced
Either way this journey is filled with much interest and support
Don’t be discouraged
Other activities this week included a drum circle where we were taught the basics of Djembe drumming by an animated veteran of the instrument named Bevel. He employed various teaching strategies including having us drum on our neighbors, scream as loud as possible, and showing us the basics of how to visually identify a good drum.
Later we were also
graced with a chance to meet John DeGrutchy, prominent South African theologian, and author of two of the books our group had been reading. Our conversation felt brief but included such weighty themes as the relationship between faith and politics, who God is, and who humans are in relationship to him.
On Friday, we took a road trip to Cape Agulhas, the southernmost tip of Africa. We played in the waters where the Atlantic and Indian oceans meet. A place of natural beauty, we were awed by jellyfish, snails, sea-urchins, crabs, rocks, and sting rays. The rest of the weekend was spent soaking up our final moments with our host families. Some of the EMU students were able to experience a traditional Xhosa umgidi ceremony, where the community celebrates the homecoming of young men from the bush. Virtually every Xhosa boy will travel to an initiation camp and undergo various challenges in order to earn their manhood. Umgidi attracts the entire community and includes lots of dancing, eating, and drinking. Other Saturday plans included walks along the harbor and a classic braai. After church on Sunday, we said our goodbyes to our dear friends and families from Zwelilhe. From Hermanus, we rode the bus to Jeffrey’s Bay where we had plans for rest, rejuvenation, and a debrief surrounding the events of our intercultural semester so far.
Week 7: Muizenberg Pt. II
Oscar and SADRA
We spent Monday and Tuesday with Oscar Siwali, the head of the Southern Africa Development and Reconstruction Agency (SADRA). Oscar welcomed us warmly and introduced us to SADRA’s mission: to intervene in conflict and to teach others to intervene in conflict. Despite having only three full-time staff members, the organization partners with a wide variety of community groups and leads trainings and workshops across Southern Africa. The project we
spent the most time learning about was the Peer Mediation Trainings, a program in which the most at-risk students in high schools with high levels of gang involvement and violence are trained in mediation and conflict de-escalation and positioned as peer mediators within their school. We were amazed to learn how well this project works; the average violent conflicts per week have dropped from 15 to 3 across the schools SADRA has partnered with!
On Monday, we had lunch with a variety of community leaders who work with SADRA and heard more about the changes they are creating, as well as enjoying live musicians who called several of us up to play along! On Tuesday, we got to know a group that runs reading clubs for kids to work against illiteracy, which is a huge problem in this area of South Africa. Also on Tuesday, we met with one school’s peer mediators and talked with them in small groups about their experience with SADRA trainings and acting as mediators in their schools as well as how their lives have been different after attending training camps.
– Laurel Evans
Robben Island
As mentioned in the previous blog post, we had anticipated visiting Robben Island on Friday of last week, but due to traffic from a sporting event downtown we had to reschedule our tour for Wednesday, March 1. With a tour departure time of 1 pm, we left our backpacker by 9 am so that we wouldn’t risk losing our tickets. Once we arrived at the V&A Waterfront, we spent some time reflecting on the books that we have been reading and having space to debrief our time in Cape Town thus far. Eventually, we headed over to where we would load onto the ferry for our ride to the island. Personally, I was feeling a little nervous about how rocky the boat might be and potentially feeling a little seasick, but all of us made it through with our health intact. Once we landed on the island, we walked to the prison where our tour guide met us and showed us around the group prison cells and individual cells. This included the cell that Nelson Mandela lived in for 19 years. We then hopped on a bus to tour the rest of the island, seeing some of the houses that guards and wardens lived in while the prison was in use. Now the island is inhabited by those who work for the museum.
– Anya Kauffman
Dion and Stellenbosch
We visited Stellenbosch on Thursday and met Dion Forster. Stellenbosch is a beautiful city full of wineries that we could see from the mountaintops. However, Stellenbosch is also the most economically unequal city in South Africa. We began our time at the University of Stellenbosch with Dion Forster. Dion is a professor at this university with a focus on public theology. He explores the differences and ties between secular and religious beliefs.
Apartheid theology was birthed and developed within the University of Stellenbosch. As a result, the Seminary of this University focuses its studies on two things: Constructual Engagement and Critical Deconstruction. Constructual Engagement has a recognition of black consciousness, exploring what it means to recognize the blackness of South Africa and what it was designed to be. Critical Deconstruction, however, explores the internalization of lies about race (and gender) that lives within South Africa or even the world itself.
Engaging with Dion was a great time of listening and learning. He gave us an opportunity to ponder and share how we could use our fields of focus (nursing, business, photography, etc.) to change the world until “that day comes”; reference to Revelation 21. After, we explored the little town of Stellenbosch with eateries and shops. Our group had a great time eating lunch together and learning about the cultural significance of wine in South Africa.
– Natallie Brown
Table Mountain and Rugby
On Friday we hiked up table mountain which was much more exhausting than I thought it would be. The trail was composed of stairs and switchbacks, with climbing almost straight up for two-plus hours. The view from the top was hidden by clouds which was very disappointing. We took the gondola down the mountain so a few of us could get back in time to surf for an hour before dinner. On Saturday the majority of us went surfing one last time before heading to a rugby game in the afternoon. The game was the Durban Sharks against the Cape Town Stormers, and it was quite exciting even if we didn’t know what was going on. It ended up being a close game with a final score of 29-23 in favor of the Stormers.
– Grant Leichty
We departed from Jo’burg on the morning of Saturday the 18th. We woke up, said our goodbyes to our hosts at St. Benedict’s, and hit the road. That day was a nearly 9-hour day on the road with a stop for lunch. We occupied ourselves with some games, music, conversation and a lot of procrastination of reading. We finally arrived at our destination in Colesberg that evening. Soon after arrival, we trekked about a mile to downtown Colesberg to eat dinner at a little restaurant in the area. The next morning, about 6-7 of us in the group decided we wanted to hike the little mountain beside our backpacker before church.
We woke up early and started the hike up the mountain. We sort of had to pave our own way as there was not really a definitive path. We eventually made it to the summit and spent a couple of minutes admiring the view before starting the trek back down. We made it down the mountain almost unscathed and showered before church. That morning we worshiped at Grace Community Church in Colesberg. Right after church we enjoyed a braii at one of the churchgoer’s homes, and then hit the road once again. This day we only traveled for about 3 hours and then arrived at our backpacker in Beaufort West. That night we grabbed dinner at our backpacker and went to sleep right after as most of us were pretty exhausted from our days of travel. The next morning we woke up early, grabbed a quick breakfast, and got on the bus to complete our last day of travel. After about 6 hours of travel through the Western Cape we saw the ocean, indicating we had made it to our destination.
Tuesday:
Today was our first full day in Muizenberg and we had a free day so we could transition into a new place. The most exciting part of the day came after lunch. As a big group, we walked to the surf emporium, rented wet suits and boards, and got a one-hour surfing lesson! There was a lot of falling, splashing, and spluttering, but by the end, a few of us were able to stand up and are very much looking forward to surfing again.
Wednesday:
This morning we met with Caroline from The Warehouse. She gave us a lot of background on Cape Town and took us on a driving tour. A lot of the driving tour consisted of observing our surroundings and noticing the stark contrasts between the informal settlements/townships and the wealthier areas of Cape Town. We drove through luxurious Bishopscourt with wineries and lush greenery to overcrowded and condensed townships with countless small iron corrugated shacks shoved into a small area. Seeing these differences really didn’t sit well with me and it left a lot of us wondering how such poverty and wealth can be in such close and obvious proximity to each other. We had the opportunity to eat at Mama Nox’s house found in a local township for lunch. She gave us wonderful food and company before we continued on our way to the township of Langa. There we toured the Dompas Museum and learned about the struggles of black movement during apartheid. During apartheid, the government forced black people to carry passes (the dompas) that cleared them for traveling out of their township, into their township, and within their township. If they left home without it, they were subject to arrest. It was a very educational day and a great introduction to our “home” for the next few weeks.
Thursday:
On Thursday we spent the morning at the Castle of Good Hope. All around there were signs explaining how the castle had changed and was used for different purposes depending on who held control. I found it interesting seeing the ways the castle is being used today. Most of the rooms were empty, especially on the upper floors. On the ground level there was much more life as workers set up for a concert in the courtyard. On the edge of the main courtyard there is a small military museum exhibiting Afrikaaner and British military artifacts. One of the old stables had been repurposed to showcase an art exhibition on the poaching of rhinos for their horns. Tucked away in a back corner of the castle we found a small heritage museum. The heritage museum felt similar to walking through an antique shop but where all the objects told the story of so many displaced persons.
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For the past few Sundays, we’ve been worshipping with different local churches in South Africa. On February 12th, we went to Orlando Baptist Church. On February 19th, we went to Grace Community Church, where we worshipped with congregants from both Colesburg and Cradock. At the different churches, we are regularly called upon to sing a song or share an encouragement with the church. Andrew Suderman has already been asked and successfully delivered two sermons. As an EMU group, we have performed a couple of renditions of the song Siyahamba. The church services have been a jubilant and energetic gathering time for us; a time to clap, dance, and hold one another, both as strangers and family.
This week we began volunteering at Soweto Kilptown Youth (SKY). The purpose of going was to experience the community and be present with children as help was needed for things such as homework. So each afternoon, we ventured off to Kilptown and many children who were joyful to be with us. We struggled with the concept of relating with these children for a week, only to leave and never return again. Therefore, we had several conversations about this with one another, but our questions did not stop us from having an amazing time at SKY.
Monday, we met Bob and got to know him as he shared about himself with us. After, we took a tour around the community in which these children come from. The rest of the week, as mentioned before, we got to know Bob, Thando, and all the children that make up SKY. We had moments where we helped with homework, stood in a circle to sing songs, and lots of laughter and hugs. Each day ended with singing “Lean on Me” by Bill Withers and reciting two prayers on being the Lord’s Prayer mentioned in Matthew 6:9-13. We left Friday, truly challenged by our experience and cherishing the moments we did have. Yet, I am happy to say a fire was sparked in most of us to continue to learn and be changed while changing others!
This week we spent our evenings at host families. We were divided into four groups and had dinner every night with a family. During this time, we had the opportunity to try new foods like chicken feet and samp. This time together gave us a chance to get to know each other better. On Friday, the final night with our host families, three groups had a braai together having the opportunity to meet different host families. The fourth host family spent supper also having a braai at their home cherishing the last night they had together with each other.
Friday we celebrated the ending of our time in Johannesburg. As a group, we reflected on the sites of struggle we had visited over the past three weeks and the knowledge gained from these sites. Throughout this time, the idea of pilgrimage was emphasized, specifically when thinking about our own journey through South Africa. To further this reflection, each individual in the group wrote a word on a rock that they felt encapsulated their time in Johannesburg. These rocks were placed on an altar in the middle of the room.
One of the key parts of this reflection time was communion. For this communion, there was an assortment of breads and fermented drinks placed on the altar. These breads and fermented drinks represented the different people and cultures of the world. For example, saltine crackers represented the elderly and disabled. After the description for each bread and fermented drink were read out loud, the group was able to taste the breads and drinks.
After communion, we had the opportunity to listen to two poem readings. The first poem was inspired by one of the sites of struggle we visited, the site of the Marikana massacre. The second poem explored the dynamic between bones, breath, and blessings.
Between the reflections on the sites of struggle, communion, and listening to the poems, we were able to celebrate and reflect on our time in Johannesburg. While we are sad to be leaving Johannesburg and the connections we made, we are excited to travel to and experience time in Cape Town.
Weekend Activities:
We attended a soccer game between the Pirates and the Sundowns on Saturday. This is an important aspect of South African culture. We were on the jumbo tron/TV at least four times and took in the loud and enthusiastic atmosphere.
We went to church at the Brethren in Christ Church in Hillbrow and were called up to sing in front of a congregation of around 300 people. It was Music Sunday so we experienced a variety of loud South African church music, and heard Andrew preach a sermon. Following the service, we spent the afternoon at Montecasino, an indoor casino with shops, a movie theater, and other fun activities. The church was in a poorer part of the city, while the casino was in a wealthier part, so it was interesting to see the contrast.
Later in the week we also learned how to do some popular South African dances.
Voortrekker Monument/Freedom Park:
During our time here in South Africa, we have studied the history of colonialism as well as the fight for freedom before, during, and after apartheid. The theme of colonialism was a major part of our Monday. We visited the Voortrekker monument which is a place of remembrance for the Dutch and French colonists (Afrikaners) who made their way from the Cape to the north of South Africa in the 1830s. This monument has been a place of controversy as the history of Afrikaners highlights white supremacy. The next morning we visited Freedom park, directly across from the Voortrekker monument. This place of remembrance points to the history of people who fought for freedom in South Africa. We walked past thousands of names of individuals who fought in various wars, or who died in different ways in the fight for the country.
Theologians:
This week, we met with a variety of theologians for conversation. In addition to our leaders, Nkosi and Mzi, we got to talk with Dr. Piet Miering, who served on South Africa’s Truth and Reconciliation Commission, Drs. Thomas and de Boer of the University of Pretoria, and Drs van Wygaard, Kritzinger, and Mdingi of the Dutch Reformed Church of Pretoria. Throughout the conversations, we noticed the themes of humility, justice, and the importance of living out your theology. We also learned in more detail the history of the Bible in South Africa, both as justification for oppression and as a source of hope and liberation.
Non-profits:
This week we visited two different community nonprofit organizations one in the township of Soshanguve just outside of Pretoria and another in the Pretoria inner city area. The first that we visited was part of a larger Faith based organization called innerCHANGE South Africa. In Soshanguve innerCHANGE is committed to bettering their community by creating safe environments for the youth of Soshanguve. Their programs range from cake baking and Bible studies for the younger kids and study hangouts for the teenagers to after-school soccer and basketball training for all ages. They even have a theatre program that rehearses in an abandoned church building. They operate through the generosity of their community both inside and outside of the churches. The second nonprofit was called the Tshwane Leadership Foundation (TLF). Over the past 20 years, they have created many sub-organizations for helping the people of Pretoria. They have many housing units made affordable through government-subsidized rent for women and men, old and young. They also have clinics started to help the homeless with health issues to get care or have a safe place to die with dignity as well as shelters for women experiencing gender-based violence. TLF works closely with the University of Pretoria and many of the churches throughout Pretoria.
Jan 28 – Feb 3
Saturday was hot, but pretty relaxing. It was mostly a free day, so after breakfast we had time to hang out, journal, and catch up on some reading. A group of us even went over to the field at the school across the street and played ultimate frisbee and soccer. Once we were nice and sweaty, which didn’t take long, we went back and hopped in the pool to cool off. In the afternoon, we got to experience a traditional South African Braai! Three different kinds of meat were barbecued: brisket, chicken, and sausage. We hungrily hung out while they cooked and after a few hours and a couple of snacks we were finally able to indulge in a delicious and very flavorful dinner with people from the community.
Sunday morning we attended a church service at Mondeor Community Church. The husband of one of our hosts is the pastor there and we had a great time experiencing our first church service in South Africa. We got to talk to a lot of people and hung out with the kids for a little while before heading to The Raspberry Farm. A student from Germany who is currently staying in South Africa with his Godmother has joined our group on a couple of outings. His Godmother owns The Raspberry Farm and invited us all over to check it out. While there we got to eat lunch from some of the vendors and taste fresh raspberry frozen yogurt, cheesecake, slushies, and more. We even got to pick 2 buckets of raspberries to take back to St. Benedict’s and then we were invited to swim in the pool on their property! Here is where Andrew introduced us to one of the best games in existence: watermelon rugby. It is exactly what it sounds like – rugby, played with a watermelon, in the pool. After a few intense rounds, we headed back to St. Benedict’s with a new favorite game and a few new bruises.
-MK Bomberger
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On Monday we visited the homes of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu, as well as Regina Mundi Church. As we toured the Mandela home, we learned about the extraordinary struggles of the Mandela family and observed the remaining bullet and scorch marks on the brick building from the antagonization of state forces which had hoped to intimidate the family into silence. After our brief walk through the small home, we gathered under a tree are buried and had a long discussion about various subjects, including the museums representation of Winnie Mandela and how the popular framing of her as a person is often at odds with both the representations of “black heroes” such as her husband who could do no wrong and of “white villains”, who received much less attention for much greater atrocities.
At Regina Mundi Church we heard the story of how police massacred peaceful student protesters of the Bantu education system inside the church. We saw multiple bullet holes and other damage to the church caused by either police or hordes of fleeing students. The church also has kept the old stained-glass windows from that event, and an examination of the bullet holes in that glass provides testimony that the police used live ammunition.
-John Jantzen
On Tuesday we went to visit Soweto. As we drove through the streets and made a few stops such as the Hector Pieterson memorial, we learned about the unfortunate circumstances the people living in this area were dealt with. Small houses, made in cheap ways, which also contain very little resources cover the neighborhoods. These houses might be small, but as Andrew Suderman says: they are large homes from within. There might not be much space, but those that live in Soweto are very welcoming and hospitable; happily willing to add another to their compacted living spaces. This community also radiates hope. These streets are painted with streams of colors. Blue, red, green, yellow, purple, orange etc. Those living in Soweto contain a good deal of creativity. From advertisements painted on walls to street vendors to full-out murals, every corner contains something of interest. This street art helps to keep the atmosphere alive and shows how it can uplift those around it with its bright and colorful nature. Art is culture and even though those in Soweto have dealt with many harsh realities and pain, they seem to show up day in and day out with welcoming spaces and creative spirits that no one can ever take away.
-Molly Piwonka
On Thursday we visited Marikana, a mining town that was the site of a massacre where miners protesting for more livable pay, were answered with bullets. This event from 2012, is still raw in the community and we were honored to visit the community and site it took place. Napoleon, a local activist welcomed us into his four-room home to watch a documentary of the event entitled Miners Shot Down. He was a gracious host who pushed us just outside our comfort zones physically and emotionally. We learned the power of the everyday person in a fight for justice and the importance of sharing stories together. A beautiful moment from the day was sitting on top of the hill where miners sat on strike against the mining companies. The view over the landscape was stunning but hindered by smokestacks and huge industrial buildings. The domination these companies have over the community and land was apparent. But Napoleon didn’t let us leave with the idea that the people lost. They hadn’t, wages increased and the movement displayed the resilience of the community.
-Nathan Oostland
On Friday we had a vigorous Zulu lesson before we had to fend for ourselves. Andrew and Karen split us into pairs, gave each pair a grocery list in Zulu, drove us to the mall, and expected everyone to translate the grocery list into English by talking with strangers in Zulu without our phones. It was a terrifying experience for some, and an exciting experience for others. After a lot of stumbling over words, everyone got the list translated and we headed back to St. Benedict’s for a relaxing and free afternoon/evening.
-MK Bomberger
On Friday night our group hosted Ariel, a previous student with the South Africa 2019 intercultural group. She was able to share some insight as well as tips for us, as we continued with our journey forward.
The next day was a bit more of a relaxed rest day. However, after dinner, we reconvened, and as a group attended an NBA game in Washington DC, to watch the Washington Wizards play the Orlando Magic. The Wizards were able to easily win, and it was a fun night spending time together as a group, as well as enjoying the hyped atmosphere of the arena.
On Sunday, our group attended church at St. Teresa of Avila Catholic Church. It was a very interesting experience for our group as a whole and differed vastly from our previous experience at the Baptist church. Here, we were invited to the very front of the church to reserved seats, as special guests of the church. It was a new experience for most of us, though a few had previous experiences at Catholic churches. Regardless, it was very enjoyable and interesting to be in an atmosphere of a new place and meet and talk to new friends. After church, we split up and explored Anacostia in different small groups in order to find lunch. Sunday night was spent hanging out around the apartments in a group as well as watching a football game. Finally, we all focused on making sure that everything was packed as we began to prepare for our long travel the next day.
—Caleb
Waiting for a Silver Line train to Dulles International AirportAfter ten days in D.C., we finally set out on the long journey to South Africa on Monday morning. Since we had to be out of our hotel rooms at 11:00 am, we spent the morning packing up before hopping on the bus and metro to Dulles International Airport 10 hours before our flight was scheduled to leave. Those hours were spent playing with the hacky sack, reading, playing cards, or sleeping. Finally, we boarded our plane at about 11:30 pm. The first leg of our trek lasted about 10 hours and despite desperately trying to sleep, many of us got only between 1-5 hours of sleep. We landed in Istanbul, Turkey at around 4:30 pm local time on Tuesday and were shocked to see such a massive space with dozens of restaurants and stores. The final leg of our trek took off around 2:30 am local time and was again about 9 hours. FINALLY, we landed in Johannesburg around 11:00 am local time on Wednesday.
Thankfully, we made it through customs and got our Visas without any problems. The first step out into the fresh air of Jo’burg was incredible for many reasons including that it meant the long-awaited journey of our time in South Africa had begun but also because we hadn’t been outside in 40+ hours. We boarded the bus to where we will be staying during our time in Johannesburg which is St. Benedict’s House. Many of us mentioned as we drove that the only thing really reminding us that we weren’t in the United States was that we were driving on the opposite side of the road that we are used to.
A few people were able to stay up for a bit longer talking, but I was utterly exhausted and passed out around 8:30 pm local time.
-Anya Kauffman
Our first full day in South Africa began with a delicious breakfast of Fat Cakes mincemeat accompanied by some oatmeal, fruit, and a variety of tropical juices. After breakfast, we meet in the chapel within St. Benedict’s with our group as well as two of our local leaders from Johannesburg, Mzi and Nkosi. We went around the circle introducing ourselves, explaining briefly why we wanted to come to South Africa, and what we expect from our time here. This hour was filled with lots of laughs and thoughtful reflections from our own group and our leaders. After a short bible study on Genesis 41-42, we got ready to leave. We left the “ranch” (as Andrew calls any place we stay for more than a couple of days) and went to a mall to pick up some snacks and toiletries we were missing. From the mall, we made the trek out of the city to Marupeng (which translates in English to Cradle of Humankind) which is the location where the first humanoid bones were discovered. When we arrived, we grabbed some lunch, and then went into the museum built on the premises. We started off our trip through the museum with a little Disney World-esque boat ride through some tunnels that showed representation of the 4 elements that sustain life on earth. After hopping out of our boats, we explored the different exhibits of the museum that showed the evolution of humans through the years. We spent close to an hour in the museum and then left out the back doors. To our surprise, there was a beautiful 180-degree view that we took in as we exited. (seen below). We sat in silence for a while taking in the view. Then we engaged in an impromptu hour-long discussion about theology and evolution, inspired by our learning in the museum. Afterward, we trekked back to the “ranch” and ate dinner together. Finally, several of us ended the day with some soccer in the courtyard. Our first full day in South Africa was a success.
-Ben Alderfer
Friday, Jan 27
After another wonderful breakfast at St. Benedict’s and a brief tour of St. Peter’s School, the private school adjacent to St. Benedict’s monastery, we set out for downtown Jo’burg. Our first stop was the Apartheid Museum.
The museum begins nearly 3000 years in the past and tells the story of the many people who have lived on and fought over the land of South Africa and the riches it holds, with special emphasis beginning in the 1940s. In the last 80 years, South Africa has seen the rise of the Nationalist Party, the Afrikaner government which instituted apartheid; the rise and constant evolution of the opposition (anti-apartheid) movement; the downfall of apartheid; the hard work of establishing democracy which followed; and the creation and work of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission.
South Africans (especially blacks, but also coloureds, Indians, and any whites who dared to question the status quo) faced constant indignities, displacement, intentionally bad education, complete lack of economic opportunity, unimaginably violent murders, and horrific human rights violations. In spite of the rampant hatred, violence, mistrust, and fear, South Africa has shown a truly remarkable capacity for endurance, forgiveness, reconciliation, truth-telling, and peace.
Constitution Hill was next up on our agenda. We enjoyed a picnic lunch on the grounds of the former women’s prison before going on a guided tour of the men’s prison just down the hill. The three prisons (one for white men, one for non-white men, and one for women) were shut down in the 1980s due to human rights violations, including overcrowding, malnourishment, and rampant crime and disease. These prisons held everyone from political prisoners to hardened criminals.
We finished the day at Little Addis, an Ethiopian restaurant, where the owner and chef treated us to wonderful food, wonderful coffee, and wonderful stories of his childhood in Ethiopia.
-Emma Nord
First Week
On Friday, January 13th, sixteen EMU students and the Suderman family of five were sent off to begin our semester-long South Africa intercultural experience. Our first week was spent in Washington, D.C. We spent the week visiting museums, taking walking tours, and exploring the city. We began to get to know each other and prepare for our upcoming flight to South Africa.
On Sunday, we visited Alfred Street Baptist Church. This church allowed many of us to gain insight into a church service very different from our home church services. The congregation was very welcoming, making the environment and service very informational and enjoyable.
On Monday, Martin Luther King, Jr. Day, we went on a walking tour with Dr. Kimberly Schmidt. We walked through the National Mall and visited the numerous monuments and memorials. Part of the focus in DC was to start looking at race relations in America, as race relations and the legacy of apartheid will be a major part of our studies in South Africa. With each monument we passed, we talked through the different versions of history that each monument represented. We talked through the importance of truth-telling, even if it reveals the faults or mistakes of our country’s leaders. One highlight from the day was the Reverend Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial. It was a profound experience, walking around his memorial on his national day of recognition. It was a very reflective day, filled with insightful conversations and probing questions.
Tuesday we visited the African American History and Culture Museum where we learned more about the struggles of African Americans in the United States. We traveled through time and heard stories about their fight for freedom and equality. After spending the morning in the museum we split into groups and explored the city. A group of students found Rob Gronkoski on their walk back to the apartments where we are staying.
The best weather and warmest sunshine was on Wednesday. In stark contrast to the weather that awaits us in South Africa, DC was frigid and wintery. After our walking tour in Georgetown, where we learned about the gentrification of African American communities in that area, we found a playground to play on for a little while.
On Thursday, we paid a visit to the National Museum of the American Indian. While there, we were able to learn about different American Indian groups, treaties made between the American Indians and U.S. Government, and American Indian culture. After leaving the museum, the group traveled to Alexandria to talk to Pastor Kirk Hanger, the pastor of New Hope Fellowship Mennonite Church. Pastor Kirk allowed the group to gain insight on being a pastor in a multicultural community.
Throughout this past week, we learned about the histories and cultures of African Americans and Native Americans, as well as the history of colonialism, enslavement, and displacement throughout history. It was an important start to our education this semester. Our learnings in DC help us better understand the world and systems around us, the people around us, and ourselves, too. We look forward to our next big thing – the plane ride to South Africa!
-Reah Clymer
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Spending four days hiking the Inka* trail was one of the most incredible experiences of my life. The first day was full of breathtaking views, and we were surprised with almost gourmet meals set up for us by our team of porters along the way. When we sat down for lunch, we were served a … Continue reading Hiking the Inka Trail →
One of my favorite days of the trip so far was the Friday of a weekend trip to a small town called El Carmen, located in the province of Chincha. When we arrived, we ate a delicious lunch at the home of the Ballumbrosio family, a family well-known in Chincha for their dancing and music. … Continue reading Peru: El Carmen →
When I thought about spending three months in Peru, I had a lot of fears. I worried about learning a new language, learning how to use public transportation, and standing out as a tourist. Once I arrived, I realized that using public transportation is easy, standing out as a tourist is inevitable, and learning the … Continue reading Peru: shout out to host families →
Garua! Living in the Southern Hemisphere at the end of October means that we are transitioning into Spring! Warm sunny days are slowly replacing the dense fog and humid cold of the city. Most of our group is used to American winters. We know what to expect and how to dress for the dry cold. … Continue reading Peru: The Fog of Winter →
On September 7th, we visited Museo Larco in Lima. The first part of the museum featured a grid displaying the timeline crossed with geographical regions. It provided an image on which to begin the following historical venture. We then proceeded to walk chronologically through the art of Peru. We started in the pre-ceramic era of … Continue reading Peru: Museo Larco →
First Impressions… Cross-cultural programs are notoriously busy! We are taking a full load of college courses while navigating a gigantic city (think NYC with 10x less infrastructure) with traffic patterns that aren’t really patterns at all. Everyone and everything needs to be filtered through Spanish, and the history and customs and politics and every other … Continue reading Peru – First Impressions →
June 27th: We had our final two lectures at University of Ghana in Accra. Women in Public Life in Ghana presented by Akosua K. Darkwah, PhD, Department of Sociology, University of Ghana. This lecture was conducted by one of only two women who provided lectures to us while we were here. Women contribute at high … Continue reading GHANA 2022 →
A Beautiful Castle, Beach and History of Peñíscola, Spain On the weekends, Tarjona language school takes some of its students on excursions to see different sites that we may not know about. On July 24th, we got on the 2 hour bus ride and headed to Peñíscola for the day. On the bus, a few … Continue reading Spain II – Mediterranean coastal cities, learning, take aways →
Bullfighting in Spain On July 16th, around half of our group decided to go and watch a bullfight here in Valencia. It’s the centuries-old Iberian distillation of the most classic of conflicts: Man versus Nature. Recently, bullfighting has become taboo out of concerns for animal welfare. To watch an animal slowly lose blood and eventually … Continue reading Spain II: Bullfight →
July 6 – 18th “¿Qué tal vlogueros?” That means “what’s up vloggers?” in Spanish! It’s only one of many new words in my vocabulary. We’ve been here in Spain for two weeks now. Today marks the halfway point in our trip. So let’s review it, shall we? Madrid We got to Madrid on Thursday, July … Continue reading Spain II: Madrid and Valencia →
June 24, 2022 EMU in Ghana Monday: Monday was our first official full day in Ghana. We started off the day around 8 in the morning and had our first couple of lectures at the University of Ghana. The focus today was on the slave trade (from an African perspective) and religion and human rights. … Continue reading EMU in Ghana →
June 23 Luke, Laura, Ben, Jacob, Kate 24 hours from the time of writing, our group will be scattering: some of us will be camping out for a night in the airport before connecting flights, some will already be exploring other countries or continuing to explore Madrid, and some will be unloading our baggage … Continue reading Final Reflections: Pilgrimage, Free Travel, Asturias, and what’s to come →
June 4 Putting down roots in Valencia—getting to know the city and its opportunities, our host families, and Taronja, our school—has greatly enriched these past few weeks. As we face our last week here, we wanted to share reflections on past moments, enjoyable activities, those who have been kind enough to open their homes to … Continue reading Valencia: remembering Madrid, activities, host families and classes →
Madrid, Toledo, Cordoba, Valencia (families and school) May 24 At the time of writing, we have been in Spain exactly two weeks—two weeks ago to the hour, we were en route to the airport, trying to imagine how we would navigate the next month and a half in new cities, a new culture, and … Continue reading Spain 2022 →
Guatemala: Weekend Trips, Halfway Mark, & Hope With March upon us, it’s clear that time is flying by. While some days may seem long, the weeks truly are short. As we continue to attend the final days of Spanish classes during the week, the weekends serve as memorable and educational getaways, full of learning opportunities … Continue reading Guatemala: Weekend trips, Halfway Mark & Hope →
Now that we’ve passed the 1-month mark, settled into host families and Spanish classes, figured out the public transport system, gotten comfortable with our surroundings, etc., we’ve realized that we’re here to stay for a little while. The honeymoon phase is a thing of the past and some days feel harder than others. Some days … Continue reading Guatemala Immersion →