Matthew's World of Wine and Drink: Recent Episodes
Matthew Gaughan
An Englishman in California soaking up the sun, I am a WSET Diploma graduate, Certified WSET Educator, and MW student. I blog about wine, teach it at all levels, and drink plenty of it. Follow me on twitter @mattswineworld or check out my website: matthewsworldofwineanddrink.com
Ever wondered how a glass alters your appreciation of a wine? Lukas Therre works at Josephinenhütte, a series of very distinctive glassware designed by Kurt Zalto. This is a fascinating interview, which covers how wine glasses are made (an intensive process), the sensory effect of a wine glass, what glass we should use for sparkling wine, and even water glasses. Pick up a glass and listen!
An interview with Agostino Bertolin of notastingnotes.com all about Austria, talking about some of the lesser known regions, Weinviertel, Neusiedlersee, Burgenland, and Steiermark, as well as varieties such as Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, and Welschriesling. Agostino provides great insight into the many styles of wine made in such a relatively small country.
There are eighteen grape varieties permitted for Châtauneuf-du-Pape, some of them very famous, others much more obscure. This episode details the characteristics of each of the varieties and what they bring to a blend—and why blending is so important in the warm climate of the southern Rhône—as well as looking at some of the other regions the varieties are grown in.
Terah Bajjalieh is an up-and-coming winemaker in California, making wine from Grenache, Syrah, Vermentino, and Falanghina. The wines are modern expressions of California, but also representations of California's Mediterranean climate and its history from the early days of the nineteenth century. In this episode, we talk about all things California in relation to these Mediterranean varieties.
Gouais Blanc is a little-planted white grape variety that in the past has been banned in France. It produces indeterminate, high-acid wines, but is indirectly responsible for some of the greatest wine in the world. Through natural crossings, it's the parent of Chardonnay, Aligoté, and Gamay in Burgundy/Beaujolais, as well as Riesling, Furmint, and Blaufränkisch. Without Gouais Blanc, wine as we know it wouldn't exist, nor would our understanding of DNA and grape genetics.
Julian Hanna has just published "Island," a book all about island life. In this episode, I interview him all about island culture and how it differs from the culture of the "mainland." We take in islands associated with wine in many different ways: Madeira, Sardinia, Tasmania, New Zealand, and plenty of others.
Henry Jeffreys's book, Vines in a Cold Climate, is an essential and extremely engaging history of the development of English wine since the 1970s. He interviews many characters and charts the change from amateur DIY winemakers to the professionalism of the industry in the 1990s to the investment from wealthy entrepreneurs in the 2000s onwards. I talk to him about how English wine, sparkling in particular, has become such a talking point, referencing the climate, the place, and the people behind the rise of the industry.
Author and podcaster Natalie MacLean gives a thirty-minute overview of Ontario wines: climate, Ice Wine, Riesling, Vidal, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, sparkling wine. A must for any student wanting to more about Canadian wine and Ontario (the largest region) specifically.
visit www.nataliemaclean.com/ for more on Canadian wine
Luke Whittall is the author of The Sipster's Pocket Guide which is an annual overview of the best wines made in British Columbia. This interview with Luke is a great insight into and overview of British Columbia wines, which are getting more and more interesting. Learn about the regions—especially Okanagan Valley—the climate, the grape varieties, and the styles of wines. Even if they're hard to find, you need to know about them.
Interview with Rui Lucas of Prior Lucas in Bairrada, Portugal. It's a region heavily influenced by the Atlantic Ocean, and therefore cooler and wetter than other areas further inland. Baga is the main variety, well-suited to the humid climate, producing tannic, high-acid, ageworthy wines. There's also sparkling wine made, which we talk about in this episode. Bairrada is an interesting, very individual region!
Interview with Peter Andrews of Culture Wine Co, who's importing South African wine into California. Topics covered include Pinotage; Mediterranean varieties; Sauvignon Blanc; the regionality of South Africa; innovative winemakers; racial diversity; and future trends for South African wine.
The Michigan wine scene is relatively new, growing in the last few years. I speak to Drew Perry of Simpson Family Estates, who started in 1980—dicsussing the growing conditions, the grape varieties, and the wines of the emerging industry.
Gamay: a high-yielding variety associated with youthful, fruity wine but which, in the right growing conditions, makes wonderful, structured wines. This episode explores the areas where Gamay is grown: Beaujolais of course as well as Loire, Savoie, Lorraine, Switzerland, the US, and New Zealand.
Winemaking in Armenia goes back at least 6,000 years, one of the starting points of viticulture. But it's only in the last ten to fifteen years that there has been a renaissance in quality wine. Vahe Keushguerian has been at the forefront of this renaissance, both in his own projects and for other fledgling wineries. In this episode, he explains all about Armenian wine—history, geography, grape varieties, styles of wine, and where the industry is heading.
Brazil's wine industry has gone through many changes since the 1990s, and is still finding its feet. The focus on quality wine began with sparkling wine, with investment from French producers, and has continued with a focus on grape varieties such as Tannat. The climate changes drastically from region to region, and grape-growing can be difficult. My interview with winemaker Flavio Pizzato explores why Brazil is quite different from other South American wine countries.
Brad Hickey has been making wine in McLaren Vale for over fifteen years, in a range of styles that reflect the Mediterranean climate of the region. This episode focuses on his experiences in McLaren Vale, and the wines being made there. A great insight into one of Australia's most historic but experimental wine regions.
A conversation with Garth Hodgdon of Cage Imports, which imports 15 small Champagne producers into the USA. We talk about trends in Champagne, how to discover those small producers (and who they are), who's drinking champagne, and why Meunier rocks!
Visit Cage Imports
Plantings in Mexico date back to the 1520s, although the development of the wine industry was curtailed by Spanish colonial intervention. Since the 1980s, there has been a renaissance for Mexican wine, with many regions emerging. In this episode, I interview Stephen Ott of Nossa Imports about the wine regions of Mexico, the grape varieties, the styles of wine, and the potential future of Mexican wine.
Georgia is one of the world's oldest winemaking countries. Traditions—such as amber wine and wine made for home consumption—continue, which make Georgian wine a wonderful trip to the past. But it's also an evolving wine country, with regions producing different expressions from the many local grape varieties. In this episode, I interview Tom Williams of Eat This! Tours, who specialises in explorations of Georgian wine and provides a fascinating insight into Georgian culture.If you're visiting Georgia, then connect with Tom through his website: eatthistours.com/
Interview with Mari Jones of Emeritus Vineyards in Sonoma County, who began the conversion to dry farming in 2008. In tandem with the selection of suitable clones and rootstocks, the vineyards are now well-established without the need for irrigation. Mari tells how they oversaw the conversion and the consequent health of the property.
Celebrating its 50th anniversary, Long Island has unique growing conditions heavily influenced by the Atlantic Ocean. I interview three producers: Jenny Smith from Pellegrini (Long Island’s first winery), Roman Roth of Wölffer Estate (also established in the early days), and Jonathan Romberg of RGNY (a much younger winery). Our conversation explores the growing conditions, the styles of wine, and the market for Long Island wines.
Wine has been made in Albania for thousands of years, and grape-growing used to be central to its culture before rule by the Ottoman Empire and then an isolated communist regime led to a centuries long decline in wine production. It's still a predominantly agricultural country and winemaking is coming back, with international varieties and interesting, largely unknown indigenous grapes.
Two neighbouring countries, formerly of Yugoslavia. Kosovo's winemaking history goes back 2,000 years, with a renewed focus on quality after the bulk wines under Yugoslavia. Montenegro has one of the largest vineyards in Europe, with research into indigenous varieties and how best to develop them to advance the country's wine culture. Lots of history, with exciting potential for the future.
First episode on the wines of the Balkan States, starting with Slovenia, a country with lots of connections with neighbouring regions of Friuli in north-east Italy and Steirmark in southern Austria. The climate changes from Mediterranean on the coast to continental further inland, leading to a variety of styles. There's also the tradition of skin-contact white wines, which has been influential around the world. A country whose wines are well worth exploring.
250 indigeneous varieties plus a handful of international; field blends in a small, fractured vineyard ownership; maritime and continental climates: Portuguese wine is hard to pindown, but an understanding of the varieties helps. Here's an overview of some of the major white and black varieties and the regions they're grown in.
This episode explores some of the 40 grape varieties approved in Austria, including the classics such as Grüner Veltliner, Blaufränkisch, St. Laurent, and Zweigelt, lesser-known but historic varieties such as Welschriesling and Rotgipfler, and international varieties Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir.
Just back from a two-week trip to Australia where I visited the wine regions of Tasmania, Adelaide Hills, and McLaren Vale. The former two are relatively young with lots of development over the last three decades; they're also cool climate with fantastic sparkling wine. McLaren Vale is more historic, but also with lots of changes since the 1990s.
Conversation with Sheila Donohue of Vero Vino, who specialise in importing "scarce and wild" Italian grape varieties. We discuss four lesser known—or completely unknown—varieties local to their regions : Schioppetino, Boschera, Famoso, and Durella. Expect lots of acid talk!
What's the difference between an Old and a New World Wine? Is there a differerence? This episode explores what the terms mean, whether we should use them, and how they can be an easy way into describing the wines of a prominent country? What the episode does not answer is whether England is New World or Old World!
There are many historic grape varieties from southern Italy, which are deservedly regaining attention. This episode looks at some of the black grape varieties across southern Italy, as well as Sicily and Sardinia: Agliancio, Negroamaro, Primitivo, Gaglioppo, Nero d'Avola, Nerello Mascalese, and others.
Muscat isn't a grape variety, but a family of related varieties all with different features. There are also many styles of wine made from the Muscat family: dry, sweet, fortified, and sparkling, made all over the world. This episode explores all the different aspects of the styles of wine made from the Muscat family.
Interview with Amanda Barnes, author of The South America Wine Guide. We discuss grape varieties which are largely only found in the diverse continent: País/Criolla Chica, Torrontés, Vischoqueña, Quebranca, and others. A great insight into the wines of South America, not just Argentina and Chile, but Bolivia and Peru too.
The southern Rhône is a large region where many styles of wine are produced - red, white, rosé, and fortified. There are also lots of different appellations to understand. In this episode, Paul Yanon guides us through the region's wines, terroirs, and trends.
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has been one of the extraordinary success stories of the last forty years, creating an entirely new category of wine. In this episode, I interview Bruce Taylor, winemaker at Konos which is entirely Maōri owned. We talk about the region, Sauvignon Blanc, current trends and styles of wine, and what makes Marlborough so distinctive.
Italian white wine has improved greatly over the last 30 years, with much fresher, crisper wines. There are lots of different varieties which are associated with specific regions. This episode explores varieties from Pinot Grigio to Verdicchio to Zibbibo. Dive into the world of Italian white wine!
Sémillon is an historic Bordeaux variety, although plantings have fallen over the last 50 years. But it remains important, producing a range of styles: full-bodied and oak-aged, light-bodied and acidic, dry and sweet, and blends with Sauvignon Blanc. This episode explores the grape and the regions it's grown in: Bordeaux, Hunter Valley, Margaret River, California, Washington, and different parts of South Africa.
My recent visit to Mediterranean France and Spain gave me a chance to explore the possibilities of Carignan. It's a contradictory variety: younger vines producer high yields while older vines produce low yields for completely different levels of quality. It can be a minor or significant part of a blend, or a single-varietal wine. But one consistency: warm Mediterranan climates, which is what this episode is all about.
Priorat is one of Spain's most prestigious regions, the vines grown on steep slate slopes. Garnatxa (Grenache) and Carinyena (Carignan) are the two most important varieties, often from old vines. The wines of Priorat are known as big and full-bodied, but as I learnt on a recent visit there's a lot more diversity than that.
Mourvèdre is a grape best known as part of a Rhône blend with Grenache and Syrah, but it makes fantastic wine in its own right and in a wide range of styles. Originally from Spain where it's known as Monastrell, it's also planted in California and Australia where it's sometimes called Mataró. Whatever its name, Mourvèdre prefers a warm Mediterrean climate - in Spain, France, California, Australia, and California.
All-encompassing interview with Edouard Parinet of Château du Moulin-à-Vent, covering Beaujolais, Gamay, and the cru of Moulin-à-Vent itself. This is Beaujolais inside out — Edouard recognised the name of a restaurant before I'd even described it!
Priorat is one of the most historic wine regions in the Mediterranean, with plantings by monks going back to the 1200s. However, its modern history was only resurrected in the late 1980s—the region is a combination of the old and the new. In this interview, Ricard Rofes of Scala Dei, Priorat's oldest winery, talks about the history of Priorat, the climate and soils, the grape varieties, old vines, and in general the character of Priorat in relation to Catalan culture.
Interview with Mayte Calvo de la Banda of Bodegas Bilbainas/Viña Pomal in Rioja, in which we talk about the winery, different grape varieties, how the vineyard influences the style of the wines, and overall trends in a traditional region which is always changing.
Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are the same grape variety, yet very different wines are made from them. That gives an indication of the versatility of the variety, which this episode explores—from simple and neutral to rich and aromatic and all levels of sweetness, from Alsace to northern Italy to Germany to New Zealand to Oregon to all places in between.
Interview with Alex Rosanelli of Hound's Tree Winery on Long Island, New York. We talk about Long Island's climate, the challenges, and the grape varieties best suited to its moderate Atlantic growing conditions. Long Island is a young region but one well worth looking out for.
Tempranillo is the most planted black grape in Spain, grown across the country and most famous in Rioja and Ribera del Duero. This episode explores the different styles of Tempranillo according to blending and climate, as well as plantings in Portugal and the New World.
Riesling: the finest but also one of the most understood white grape varieties. This episode covers the many different regions Riesling is grown in around the world, and the many different styles of wine produced from the intense, aromatic variety.
What's it like to take the MW exams? Well, I found out a few weeks ago and just wanted to share my experiences with you and get the pain off my chest!
Merlot is the most planted grape varieties in France, and important across the world yet many consumers don't appreciate the quality and range of wines made from the variety. This episode explores the different regions for Merlot, the styles of wines, blends, growing conditions, and champions Long Island and Uruguay!
Cava is Spain's answer to Champagne, but lacks both a reputation for quality and a sense of identity. But is that changing? This episode explores how producers are trying to improve the quality of the wines—although this has not been without controversy as some producers have formed their own breakaway organisations. Exciting times for the future of Cava!
A conversation with Peter Fraser of Yangarra Estate in McLaren Vale, Southern Australia, revolving around old vines, the history of the region, Grenache and Roussanne. McLaren has a rich winemaking history, but one which has changed over the last 20 years. Learn how McLaren Vale has changed, but also how old vines contribute to character and quality and the attributes of Grenache and Roussanne, as well as other Rhône varieties.
Bolivia may not be known for its wine industry, but wine has been made there for hundreds of years. I interviewed Ramón Escobar of Chufly Imports about Bolivian wine, as well as how wine can benefit the local economy given that it brings jobs to so many sectors. And if you thought plantings in Argentina were high altitude, Bolivia is another level...!
Sauvignon Blanc is sometimes dismissed as producing one-dimensional wines which are grassy, herbaceous, and vegetal, designed to be drunk now. This episode discusses the much more versatile, varied, and diverse nature of Sauvignon Blanc, exploring the Loire, Bordeaux, Italy, New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, Chile, and California, from dry to sweet wines and the many expressions made from the grape.
Chenin Blanc is one of my favourite white grape varieties, with its high acidity and characteristic waxy texture. It's made in a range of styles, from dry to sweet to sparkling. This episode explores all the regions in which Chenin Blanc is grown, from the Loire to South Africa to California and even Argentina.
Grenache is one of the world's most planted grape varieties, commonly found in warm Mediterranean climates such as the south of France, eastern Spain, Australia, and California. This episode explores the extraordinary diverse range of wines made from Grenache: different blends, rosé, fortified wine, and from old vines. In a warming climate, Grenache may be the future!
Carignan, Cariñena, Mazuelo, Samsó, Carignano: call it what you like, the variety has had an up and down history. Long used in bulk regions like Languedoc due to its high yields which lead to astringent tannins, there are now producers working with old vines to make more concentrated, intense, and successful wines. This explores Carignan in all its form, and why it should be taken more seriously than is sometimes the case.
Thirty years ago English sparkling wine wasn't a thing; twenty years ago it was barely known about; ten years it was little understood; now it's appreciated as one of the best regions for quality bubbles; the next ten years may see England really become established on the world map. To discuss all this more, listen to my interview with Trevor Clough of Digby Fine English - who make some fantastic sparkling wine.
Nova Scotia is a small region off the eastern coast of Canada, which is slowly attracting attention due to the increased quality of its wines. The cool Atlantic climate are great for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and traditional method sparkling wines, as well as dry, crisp white wines.
Sophia Luckett (of www.the-drink-talking.com) joins me on the pod to the give the lowdown on Nova Scotia wines and what the future holds.
Sardinia is a large, rugged island with a strong Mediterranean culture; it has a strong if rustic winemaking tradition which is beginning to become more internationally relevant. In this episode, I interview Mark Middlebrook of Portovino, an importer of unusual Italian wine. We talk about Vermentino and Cannonau (Grenache), as well as extraordinary wines made under flor (like fino sherry, but not fortified). Join us for a journey across the island!
An interview with Clémence Lelarge-Pougeot of the Champagne producer Lelarge-Pougeot who specialise in Meunier. The interview explores the evolution of a grower-producer and the increasingly important role of Meunier in Champagne production. Clémence is about as charming as can be, so have a listen and drink a glass of champagne!
An in-depth conversation with Michael Terrien of Obsidian Ridge about Lake County, the importance of elevation, and the shiny, sharp obsidian rocks. Michael has worked with the high-elevation Obsidian Ridge vineyard for 20 years: the interview records how he has learnt from the land to make wine that reflects the land's character.