TESTPIECE Climbing: Recent Episodes
TESTPIECE
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):
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Why Carlo sands everyday
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The benefits of training comp moves for outdoor climbers
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Si Moore has been coaching climbing since before it was a real job. Today, he coaches some of the world’s best climbers, and is the founder of Vertical Ascents, a company built on the foundation of movement science.
Today, he and Josh sit down to discuss the philosophy that informs his coaching, and some of the most important lessons he teaches his clients.
Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):
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How to send your project
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The benefits of training beyond your limit
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Is getting a coach the right move for you?
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What is the most fun type of climbing?
SHOW NOTES:
Vertical Ascents - https://www.verticalascents.com
West Coast Gimps - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QbmOjZFsxG8
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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Adam Shahar, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.
Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):
- The secret to climbing on slopers
- Adam’s training routine
- Every board’s hardest climb
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Visit our podcast page: HERE
Chris Deuto climbs everything. He’s bouldered V14, he’s sent hard 5.14s, he’s the youngest person to climb the Yosemite triple crown, and, most impressively, last year he climbed Cerro Torre’s southeast ridge.
In this episode he breaks down the factors that make Cerro Torre such a difficult ascent, how he approaches the substantial danger in his climbing, and his career in climbing journalism.
Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):
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How do pitches get graded on big alpine ascents?
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Chris’s scariest climbing moments from the past year
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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Will Anglin, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):
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Should you use dog paw medicine?
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Predictions for the second half of the year
SHOW NOTES:
Annie Sanders flashes the slab boulder at the Innsbruck World Cup finals - https://www.youtube.com/shorts/E1dF6U-frAg
Janja Garnbret's youtube channel - https://www.youtube.com/@Janja.Garnbret
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You probably already know Hazel Findlay for climbing some of the world’s hardest, boldest trad routes. Today, she and Josh sit down to discuss her career as a pro climber, sports psychology, and unlocking the ability to dig deep and try as hard as you can.
Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):
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Hazel’s approach to danger in climbing
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How Hazel balances hard projecting with being a parent
SHOW NOTES:
- Trying hard is a skill. Here's how to train it. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3X0W4DT-h9I
- Strong Mind - https://go.strongmindclimbing.com/webinar
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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Brian Squire, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.
Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):
- The hardest move ever on the TB2
- Is a Houdini Match allowed on a no matching boulder?
- Spray or Mirror for the TB2?
- Favorite angle to climb on for Boards?
- Favorite holds on the TB2?
- Boulders that are harder than “How Soon Is Now?” V15
SHOW NOTES:
Brian’s board account - https://www.instagram.com/itsybitsylittlecrimpers/
The TB2’s hardest move - BRANEWORLD @50 https://tensionboardapp2.com/climbs/9DA5ADDC70E14F86B96D6EB5343BE676
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Matt Samet is the editor of the American Climbing Journal, and the oldest person to climb V10 on the TB2 (probably?).
In this episode, Matt and Josh discuss the history of climbing, how its ethics developed into their current form, the state of climbing media, and lessons from a very long career in climbing.
Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):
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The most common climbing accidents, and how to prevent them
-
The best piece in the American Climbing Journal
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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Allison Vest, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):
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What makes Sorato Anraku so strong?
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Is Dohyun Lee the world’s best board climber?
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Will we see more climbers livestream their sends?
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You probably know Lincoln Knowles from instagram. Last year he started posting a series called, “Free soloing a harder route everyday until I fall.” Thankfully, he did not deliver on that, but the series did propel him to viral stardom and built him a career as a free soloist.
Since then he’s made the first free solo ascent of Squawstruck, the longest sport climb in America, he’s soloed as hard as 5.12b/c, and he’s taken some of the world’s best climbers with him.
Today, he joins Josh to talk about the mental prep that goes into his daring ascents, and his Stonemasters style rockstar life.
Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):
-
Lincoln’s scariest moments
-
The best pro climbers to solo with
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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato from Tension Climbing, Ben Burkhalter, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- What happened to The Red Board?
- Why are spray walls disappearing?
- The rules of board climbing
SHOW NOTES:
- “How Soon Is Now” V15 board climb from Brian squire (@ittsybitsycrimpers): https://www.instagram.com/reel/DXPvQxXEu9S/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
- Board Lords 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJJkEcgmbpg&list=PLkr0-jfrZvVmGVkSoE_f-L_2XYGxnI4kz&index=9
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This episode originally aired as a Patreon exclusive on December 6, 2025.
After a battle with conditions, injuries, and a heartbreaking dab, Noah Wheeler just sent Burden Of Dreams V17/9A. This week we revisit his first trip to Finland with Hamish McArthur, and Tension Climbing's Michael Rosato, where they checked out Burden, and the infamous Sisu Project.
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Ben Burkhalter sent nearly all his projects this season, and this week he tells us how he did it — and how you can too. In this episode we discuss the problem with high end grades, the importance of sending as many boulders as you can, and the strongest climber ever.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- Dissecting board grades
- The hardest board climbs ever
SHOW NOTES:
Chronic by Ben Burkhalter and Tension Climbing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WENaQBs4YWM
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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Link to the 'Yubisac': https://www.instagram.com/p/DXsnAs0kywT/?img_index=3&igsh=dG5vaWN3aXZxYThx
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
- Developing landings and trails
- What happened to Dreamtime
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Adam Ondra is the world’s best climber. In 2017 he made the first ascent of the world’s first 9c / 5.15d, in 2025 he climbed Soudain Seul V17, and in the past few months he’s flashed 4 V15s.
This week he joins us to discuss his recent bouldering spree, his future plans, and what it takes to push climbing’s limits.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- Why Adam likes boldness and adventure in climbing
- Adam’s tips for falling the right way
- Will Adam compete in the 2028 Olympics?
- The ethics of glued holds and manufactured climbs
- Do competitions actually test who’s the best climber?
- Skipping bolts to improve performance
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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato from Tension Climbing, Max Zolotukhin from Sickos Social Club, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- Discontinuing the TB1
- How to convince a gym owner to buy a board
SHOW NOTES:
Sickos Social Club: https://www.sickossocialclub.com/podcast
Some Climbing News’s summary of the Kilter app situation: https://youtu.be/1GyjWN691M4?si=eoCpcIqYlIjzH6xz
Walltopia’s Quantum Board Belay: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ek2dYciuaCY
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16 year old Beckett Hsin just climbed bouldering’s hardest grade.
In this week’s episode, he and Josh discuss the path that took him here, the boulders that inspire him, and the power of psych. Beckett also tells us about his ambition to branch out from bouldering and explore everything that climbing has to offer.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- Beckett’s experience with Lyme Disease
- Tips for shorter climbers
- Beckett’s strength metrics
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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
- Is it ever okay to red-tag a boulder?
- The politics and ethics of bolting a route
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After 2 insane years, Sean Bailey is back on the pod.
In this episode we break down Sean's hardest ascent to date, Duality of Man (5.15d) and the philosophy behind Next Gen, the new gym helmed by Sean and Nonaka Miho.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- Is V17 or 5.15d harder?
- Is Duality Of Man chipped?
- Will Sean ever compete again?
- Why has no one repeated any of the proposed 15d’s?
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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Sam Prior and Joshua Horsley.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- The best and worst MoonBoard sets and holds
- How is Ben Moon still so strong at nearly 60 years old?
- What makes a benchmark a benchmark?
- Sam’s favorite Careless Talk episode
- The thing people don’t realize about climbing content
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One year later, Dr. Tyler Nelson is back!
Tyler is the owner and founder of Camp4 Human Performance and an expert on all things training. In this episode we discuss everything shoulders, including best exercises, rehab, what to avoid, and more.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- Are your hangs limited by finger strength or shoulder strength?
- Do pressing exercises really “even out” climbers?
- When to consider surgery
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Visit our podcast page: HERE
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
- Deep dive on climbing shoes and their individual benefits
- The history and future of rubber technology for shoes
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Daniel Yagmin Jr. is the founder of Decoy Climbing holds and a legend in the Northeast climbing scene. He joins us this week to talk about the process of hold shaping, how his background in fine arts informs his work, his love of board climbing, and where he thinks the industry is headed.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- Dan’s unconventional hold shaping tool kit
- The look of the Decoy Board
- The pros and cons of every training board
- Dan’s favorite holds — outdoors and indoors
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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- Noah’s biggest lesson from his injury
- What are the defining characteristics of the British board style?
- How to address elitism in the climbing community and between climbing disciplines
- When to use a standardized board over a spray wall
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Connor Herson is back after an insane 3 years. Last week he proposed the world’s first 5.15 trad climb, “Drifter’s Escape,” a beautiful single pitch in Squamish that revolves around one of the best moves you could ask for on gear.
He also talks about balancing climbing professionally with completing his masters degree, lessons he’s learned from climbing with boulderers, and his philosophy of improving by climbing as much volume as he can without sacrificing difficulty.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- A look into Connor’s approach to training
- What makes him so strong on jams and locks?
- Connor’s bouldering aspirations
- Connor and the TB2
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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
- What’s the best way to approach solo night climbing?
- More crazy skincare techniques from Will
- Is Font or Yosemite more technical?
SHOW NOTES:
Duality of Man (5.15d): https://www.instagram.com/p/DT-zNfBibXI/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Drifter's Escape (5.15a Trad): https://www.instagram.com/p/DUqlp18j6vL/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Nate Williams on ROTSW: https://www.instagram.com/p/DUMf_aCgdpd/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
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Adam Shahar is back on the pod after the best year any climber could ask for. He’s been crushing hard boulders in Bishop, and Yosemite, and just climbed his first V17, Return of the Sleepwalker. He also talks about his recent banger V13 FA in the Valley, and his single-move Northeast megaproject.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- Adam’s favorite crags in the Northeast
- Other projects Adam’s eyeing
- What motivates you as a climber?
- Why are there so many strong crimpers in the Northeast?
SHOW NOTES:
“La Dolce Vita” V13 FA: https://www.instagram.com/p/DT6XK3Zksaj/?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==/
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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Quinn Spadafora from Tension Climbing, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- Gamification of boards pro’s and con’s?
- Best ways to do Leaderboards?
- What separates Quinn from the actual Board Lords?
SHOW NOTES:
ROQ Climbing Gym: https://www.roqclimbing.com/
8B On A Moonboard?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4hR75avQkU
Wheel Rock “Crimpiest Board”: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ggh3uhdTVm8
“ursula” V6 TB2 Spray by Alex Johnson
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Melina Costanza is back on Testpiece for the 3rd time! That’s because Melina is absolutely outstanding in every way: competitions, outdoors, training, and especially mindset. Melina is able to articulate all of her thoughts on these things in a way that most can’t which is why we love having her on the podcast as often as possible.
She also recently competed in her first ever World Championship where she podiumed!! Even more astounding is that she did this as her first comp back after having to sit out the entire World Cup series with a serious knee injury.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- Are you gunning for the 2028 Olympics?
- What is the prime age for being a competition climber?
- The role of JOY in greatness.
- Arnold Schwarzenegger!
- Indoor skin management vs. Outdoor skin management?
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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
This Bonus content is SO GOOD. If you don’t have Patreon just sign up, get the 7-day Free Trial, and cancel immediately. You can’t miss this! I guarantee you will laugh out loud. -josh
- 2025 Top 3 Moments
- 2025’s Biggest Winners
- 2025’s Biggest Losers
- 2026 Predictions & Wishes
- “Savage Downgrades”
- “Big Toe Condoms”
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Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang] is back on the pod for another fun episode!
Tim has rededicated himself to the mastery of climbing after a brief stint in a normal 9-5. And boy did he come back with a bang with the amazing FA of Borrowed Time, a stunning V14 highball in Tahoe.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- Mentally dealing with big injuries. How do you do it, and how did it shift your perspective on climbing?
- Biggest Moments for Climbing in 2025? Predictions for 2026?
- Would you be willing to change your proposed grade of Mandala Sit to V14?
SHOW NOTES:
- timkangcoaching.com
- Focus: A Bishop Highball Project with Tim Kang
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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension), Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- Benn’s Favorite Shoes for Board Climbing
- Most Iconic Board Climbs (and why climbs become iconic)
- Everyone's Favorite and Least Favorite TB2 Holds
SHOW NOTES:
StoneLine Podcast w/ Ben Moon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2W8P-tKM40
Quantum Board Session w/ Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi: https://youtu.be/j-PMLkanWCQ?si=MdNKzok20A6IBPeD
Board Lords #9: https://youtu.be/xJcj99-_UVw?si=oiUbUzWUTXvFyAOL
Lumo board: https://www.lumoclimbing.com/
Shiny Wall: https://shinywall.com/en/standard-max-full/
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This is a re-release of a previous episode with Sean Bailey. It was an absolute banger then, and it is today. Sean's been on a tear recently with his send of AOTB [V17], opening a new gym in Tokyo, and theres rumors of even more hard sending. Because of this, we thought it was a great time to bring this one back.
We're on holiday this week, but we'll be back to normal starting next week. Happy holidays and new year everyone!
Previous description, as originally aired Jan 29th, 2024.
Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now.
- Sean recently FA’d the low start to Evilution [“Devilution”] which was a long standing sought after project that clocks in around V16 and is now one of the hardest, proudest lines in the world!
- How he started climbing and training at a young age and what it was like cutting his teeth on his local crags like Smith Rock.
- He shares about what WC’s were like as an American 7+ years ago when the USA was not competitive at all. Spoiler — it was different and not so glamours!
- His recent time spent on hard outdoor bouldering and the lessons he learned in sport climbing that help in bouldering.
- What he thinks the progression in sport climbing will look like.
- Sean also expands on his recent Instagram post that shared on the struggles pro-climbers have behind the scenes making ends meet. Don’t miss this part.
Absolutely incredible can’t miss podcast by one of the top climbers in our sport!
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Julian Acevedo was one of the founders of the original ‘Anti-Mega’ gym, GP81 in New York City. This gym is the definition of a “climber’s climbing gym” and is known for great walls, great setting, and an even better community.
GP81 has now blazed a trail again by opening a Youth Training Center which is headed up by the Creative Director Zoe Sayetta who has been coaching youth athletes for decades.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- Is there plans to continue to expand GP81? More gyms? More YTC’s? Can you do that while still being ‘anti-mega’?
- How you deal with serious issues from kids, like eating disorders, or serious anxiety around competition or falling?
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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
- The How/What/When/Why of using WET chalk.
- Best skin tactics? Will Anglin’s deep dive on healing splits and the secret glue he uses for everything skin related.
Links to things mentioned:
- Ethan Salvo on Lucid Dreaming (V15): https://www.instagram.com/p/DR8AjooE_R8/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
- Ben Kim on Lucid Dreaming: https://www.instagram.com/p/DRszUg_jyvi/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
- Pietro Vidi: https://www.instagram.com/pie.vidi/
- Mimic Holds: https://www.mimicholds.com/
- Absolute Climbing: https://www.absoluteclimbing.com/
- Chris Deuto and Ben Sotero do Cerro Torre: https://www.instagram.com/p/DR4mu_TDnLU/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
- Bryce Viola V15 FA: https://www.instagram.com/p/DRN02KnDEIt/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
- Chaehyun Seo’s Oliana Trip: https://www.instagram.com/chaehyun.s/p/DRlCj1oEqyd/
- Adam Ondra Flashing V15: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Wk4aKdXC9g
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Annie Sanders is the first American woman to win World Cups in both Bouldering and Lead. And she’s only 18 so she’s just getting started!
Hear about Annie’s breakout season and what’s in store for her future!
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
- Who are your favorite competitors to watch and why?
- How do you deal with pressure in ISO before climbing?
- Which round has the hardest grades, Qualis / Semis / Finals?
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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley.
Board Climbs Mentioned:
- “Paws To Riches” V6 on the 2024 MB, by Davy
- “All Jazzed Up” V10 @45 on the TB2 Spray, by Brian Squire
- “I Kneed You” V10 @45 on the TB2 Spray, by Michael Rosato
- “One Leg Vet” V9 @40 on the TB2 Spray, by Joshua Horsley
Media Mentioned:
- Sisu Project Video by Tension Climbing
- Burden Of Dreams Video by Tension Climbing
- “what it’s like to train on the world’s most legendary board” by Wheel Rock
- “Spray Wall Series: Episode 13 - Herm Feissner's Home Wall” by Tension Climbing
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
- What are some off-the-wall exercises to get better at board climbing?
- What is the best angle for a non-adjustable home wall?
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BLACK FRIDAY PATREON DISCOUNT! Get 25% offyour first month or annual subscription until midnight (PT) on Dec 1st. Use code ‘BLACKFRIDAY’.
‘Emergency’ Episode! Elias Iagnemma sent his long standing project last week and proposed the grade of V18 / 9A+. A grade no one has ever proposed before. So we got the crew together outside our regularly scheduled program to discuss. Enjoy!
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
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Visit our podcast page: HERE
Ollie Torr is the co-founder of Lattice. Yes, that Lattice. The biggest training company in the climbing space.
Ollie has tested, coached, or worked with almost every top climber in the world, especially if they are in the UK. That means that Lattice also has the biggest and best data set around climbing metrics, and they’ve created an app to help apply what Lattice has learned over the last decade for everyone. Here is a link to get a Lifetime discount: https://plan.latticetraining.com/sign-up
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
- Do you ever see people that perform significantly better than their testing metrics suggest? What is their ‘secret sauce’?
- Is it important to be a good climber if you want to be a good coach?
- How would you coach Will Bosi if decided that he wanted to compete in the 2028 Olympics?
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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
- All things shoes! Stiff shoes or soft shoes? Should you have a special pair for sending and a different pair for training? And more…
- What does and does not factor into a grade? Approach? Morphology? Risk? Condition? And how FA’s decide to grade based on these factors.
UPDATE / CORRECTION: A CLIMBER WAS NOT SHOT AND KILLED BY A HUNTER IN THE SE. IT WAS A NON CLIMBER WHO WAS TRAGICALLY SHOT. MORE INFO HERE: https://bucks.crimewatchpa.com/da/29567/post/bucks-county-hunter-pleads-guilty-sentenced-7-20-years-killing-jason-kutt-nockamixon
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Tyler Willcutt is the agent for climbers like Alex Honnold, Chris Sharma, Natalia Grossman, Tommy Caldwell, Jimmy Chin, etc… You get the idea. He is part of RXR Sports, an agency that represents the best athletes in adventure sports.
In this episode we get a behind the scenes look at what the day to day is like as one of the greats in our sport. How they make money, handle pressure, and capitalize on major sends. Tyler also explains how not all athletes can cross into the mainstream. Some have an ‘X’ factor that give them broad appeal, and we discuss what that is and how to get it.
Tyler is also an incredible climber and success story in his own right. He went from a “typical” strong dirtbag to having a successful career in climbing, and he shares how you can do that too.
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
- What are the most valuable skills for a professional climber to develop, in addition to their climbing ability?
- Does anyone make 9 figures in our industry? 8 figures? 7 figures?!
- What is the most outrageous sponsorship deal you were a part of that actually made sense?
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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley.
This week Michael took a vacay, but he was replaced by the inimitable board lord Benn Wheeler!
Media Mentioned:
- Noah Wheeler FA’s a new V15 on the TB2
- Wheel Rock “Olympian vs V17 Climber”
- Wedge Video “This training board is legendary — here’s why”
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
- Tips for setting a spray wall? Did you set one?
- Why aren’t you on the leaderboards even though you climb all the hard ones?
- How do you like the 2024 MB?
- Are boards becoming more consistent between brands?
- Why is 8a harder on a board than outdoors? (Is it?!)
- Top 5 us boards vs top 5 euro boarders, who wins?
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Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sierra Blair was an accomplished competition climber for many years with tons of World Cups under her belt. Due to a back injury she had to stay low to the ground and this lead her to the MoonBoard. It’s been love ever since and she has transitioned from her competition career into the outdoors where she is focused on bouldering in Arizona.
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
- What’s her favorite MoonBoard climb and why?
- What was it like being famous when young and what does she recommend to up and coming pro’s?
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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
- How do you safely work/clean/scope a boulder on a rope?
- When do you work on your weaknesses vs leaning into your strengths?
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Visit our podcast page: HERE
Mark and Josh have climbed all over the world together and this chat has been a long time coming! They’ve been discussing climbing for well over a decade and Mark has heavily influenced Josh’s views and understanding of how to climb at a high level.
Mark Heal is an absolute legend in the Bay Area. He’s a V14 climber, with >600 double digit sends and amazing FA’s all over the Sierras. Mark is also a top private coach with over a decade of experience. And last, but certainly not least, he is one of the founders of the incredible Benchmark Climbing gyms in SF and Berkeley.
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
- How to do you analyze your own video like a coach does?
- Top easy/mod/hard boulder in Yosemite?
- Best boulder in the North East?
- How do you choose feet when you're outdoors and there’s so many options?
- Top slab climbing tips?
You can find Mark on his website, https://www.reachcoaching.net/ and on Instagram at www.instagram.com/therealheal
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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley.
2024 MoonBoard Climbs Mentioned:
- "Tempest In A Teapot" V5, by rtag
- "Moon Spawn" V9, by Dana Rader
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
- How do you stick better to wood holds? (hands and feet)
- How do you warmup when you only have a board?
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Paul Houghoughi is the official physio for the GB Climbing team and accompanied them to both Olympics. He’s supported some of the best in our sport, such as Olympic gold medalist, Toby Roberts.
Paul is also an extremely accomplished climber. He’s FA’d double digit boulders on almost every continent in the world and climbed up V13 (so far…)!
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
- All things wrists!
- Does pain always mean that you are injured? How do you know when pain is “just” pain?
Find Paul on Instagram here: https://www.instagram.com/theclimbingphysio/ or on his website: www.theclimbingphysio.co.uk
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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
- Tips for someone's first trip to Yosemite and Bishop
- Does a rest hurt the quality of a boulder or route?
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Visit our podcast page: HERE
The legend himself, Chris Sharma.
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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley.
'Classics' mentioned:
- "Effervescence" - 7A/V6 @ 45°
- "Clinical" - 7B/V8 @ 45°
- "Ignite" - 7B+/V8 @ 45°
- "Free Education" - 7C/V9 @ 45°
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Jesse Firestone is a well known climbing coach. He's worked with people from every continent and of all levels (V0 - V16).
Here's where you can find Jesse online:
- Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/coachjfire/
- Website: https://jfireclimbing.com/
- Jesse's own Podcast: https://open.spotify.com/show/6iRknM60I84k2pmeztWDt2?si=0fc3bde1ff244e74
Join Patreon: HERE
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Visit our podcast page: HERE
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Join Patreon: HERE
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Visit our podcast page: HERE
Alex Honnold is an amazing climber and one of the best ambassadors our sport has ever had. He may be the most famous climber of all time with his ropeless ascents of the most beautiful and iconic climbs in the world.
Enjoy this chat with one of greats.
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Visit our podcast page: HERE
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED by ORGANIC CLIMBING! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing.
SHOW NOTES:
- Allison Vest and Kyra Condie on a 55 degree MoonBoard
- Ben Kim’s First Time on the TB2 Mirror
- Ben Moon and Sam Prior on the 2024 MoonBoard
- Board accounts mentioned (MoonBoard Focused Instagrams): @jessieisboard, @steve_radar4, @daradar_boards, @good_condies, @40degreelogbook, @cool.board.climbs
- Organic Climbing
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Visit our podcast page: HERE
Ravioli Biceps! Just back from an amazing trip to Rocklands, Ravioli shares how board climbing transfers to outdoor climbing, the evolution of board climbing culture over the last decade, how he deals with stopper moves, and some of the misconceptions about board climbing being non-technical.
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”
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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Today’s episode covers:
- The Current WC Season (and a Janja tangent)
- Yannick Flohe’s World’s First 8C Flash (or was it?)
- The Pro’s and Con’s of Pushing Things To The Absolute Limit
- FOMO of All The Good Temps and Good Times Being Had in Rocklands
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Dan Varian is a living legend in the bouldering scene. He's one of the founders of the iconic company Beastmaker and he's a prolific developer with who has FA'd 100's of boulders in the grade 8 (V11 and up).
On top of that, Dan is one of the most thoughtful and experienced climber in the world on what it takes to climb at a high level, especially when it comes to the hands and fingers.
This is an absolute masterclass and deep dive on elite level hand strength.
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED by ORGANIC CLIMBING! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing.
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Welcome to the first episode of the ‘Board Talk’ podcast!
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Joshua Horsley.
Some topics covered in this episode are:
- Board Lords episodes 6 and 7
- Recent Moon YouTube on the OG board (2010!)
- Are Boards Morpho?
- Ethics and Style on Boards
- The WORLDS FIRST confirmed V15 on a Board
- The MOST repeated climb of any kind in the world.
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”
SHOW NOTES:
- Michael Rosato’s Instagram
- Board Lords #6
- Board Lords #7
- OG Moonboard Video
- Madrock Climbing, This Episode’s Sponsor
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Visit our podcast page: HERE
Noah Wheeler and Benn Wheeler are back on the pod!
Tons of fun and insight from these two on what it takes to do the hardest boulders in the world.
Also we get into Board Lord’s Episode #7 where Noah competed with Hamish McArthur and SeanRHM.
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.
SHOW NOTES:
- Noah Wheeler’s Instagram
- Benn Wheeler’s Instagram
- Wheel Rock Patreon
- Wheel rock YouTube Channel
- Wheeler Brother’s Testpiece Episode
- Board Lords Episode #7
- Tension Climbing
Join Patreon: HERE
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Good Temps is back!
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Today’s episode covers:
- Brooke Rabatou’s FFA of Excalibur (15c)
- Adam Ondra flashing Lexicon (E11)
- Mount Doom (V17) and the importance of aesthetics, which leads to a discussion about how our sport actually progresses
- Mellow Rock Games
- Controversy around Sung Su’s sending Burden of Dreams (V17)
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Obe Carrion is an absolute legend and one of the most iconic stars that rose during the early years of American bouldering.
Obe has climbed, competed, and worked in every role climbing has to offer. And he always does it with the best of the best.
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s motto is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”
SHOW NOTES:
- Obe Carrion’s Instagram
- Rampage
- Madrock Climbing, This Episode’s Sponsor
Join Patreon: HERE
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Visit our podcast page: HERE
Michael Rosato is the Director Of Marketing at Tension Climbing, and is also the host of the amazing ‘Board Lord’ series on their YouTube Channel.
Michael is also a board lord himself, with sends up to V13 on the TB2.
Enjoy this deep dive into board culture, the different kinds of boards, and the future of boards.
This episode is supported by ORGANIC CLIMBING! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing.
SHOW NOTES:
- Michael’s Instagram
- Testpiece Episode #102 with the Tension Crew
- Josh and Tim Trying The TB2
- Organic Climbing
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
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Jonathan Siegrist, aka J-Star, is one of the top sport climbers in the world, and he has been for at least a decade(s?). He recently sent another 9b in Italy, called Erebor. This wasn’t his in his typical style and he shares how he trained for months before the trip specifically for this line.
Jonathan is one of the most experienced and knowledgeable climbers in the game right now and he shares SO much in this chat. Both in how to reach your potential now, and how to be successful over the long haul.
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.
SHOW NOTES:
- Jonathan’s Instagram
- Erebor, 9b
- Tension Climbing
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
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Welcome to the first episode of the ‘Good Temps’ podcast!
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
SHOW NOTES:
- Carlo’s Instagram
- Will’s Instagram
- Austin’s Instagram
- Josh’s Instagram
- The Dark Side Movie
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
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Hamish McArthur has been making huge headlines in the climbing world lately with his send of the highly sought after second ascent of Megatron [V17]. He quickly followed that up with another V17 second ascent of No One Mourns The Wicked, on his first session! Yes, that’s right, Hamish sent a V17 in a few hours.
Hamish is an incredible person through and through and it’s a pleasure to get to peer into his process and hear about his path from “Good to Great”.
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”
SHOW NOTES:
- Hamish’s Last Testpiece Episode, #122
- Hamish’s Instagram
- Hamish Sending No One Mourns The Wicked [V17] In A Session
- Hamish Does The Second Ascent Of Megatron [V17]
- Madrock Climbing, This Episode’s Sponsor
Support the show
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You know him, you love him — Dave MacLeod (again!).
This episode was ‘snipped’ from the original, #158, and focuses on a nuanced discussion of nutrition. It felt very different from the other topics so we made it a standalone.
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.
SHOW NOTES:
- Podcast [Part 1] with Dave
- Dave MacLeod’s Instagram
- Dave MacLeod’s YouTube Channel
- Moving The Needle, Dave’s Latest Book
- Dave’s Journey To The Ketogenic Diet
- Dave Eating McDonalds Everyday
- Tension Climbing
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
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Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
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You know him, you love him — Dave MacLeod.
This episode focuses on boldness and risk in climbing, as well as some of the key theme’s in his latest book, Moving The Needle.
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY ORGANIC CLIMBING! Simply put, Organic makes the best and highest quality crashpads.
SHOW NOTES:
- Dave MacLeod’s Instagram
- Dave MacLeod’s YouTube Channel
- Moving The Needle, Dave’s Latest Book
- Organic Climbing
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
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Josh Lowell is THE guy behind the camera and computer who has made all of your favorite climbing videos over the past 25+ years. He is one of the founders of Big UP Productions, Reel Rock, and was the director of The Dawn Wall. The guy even has 2 Emmy’s under his belt!
Josh shares all of his amazing stories from starting out as an OG dirtbag, picking up his first camera to show the world how ‘badass’ climbing is, all the way through winning Emmy’s. This guy is a legend and is one of the reasons why climbing is viewed the way it is today.
SHOW NOTES:
- Josh Lowell’s Instagram
- Reel Rock’s Instagram
- Reel Rock Website
- Rampage on YouTube
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
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Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang] is back on the pod for another fun episode.
Tim and Josh talk about the latest big news stories in climbing and then get into their latest climbing experience. For Tim that means sending Trieste, an iconic Red Rocks V14, while being a ‘weekend warrior’. For Josh that means his recent big trip to the historic bouldering Mecca that is Fontainebleau.
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s motto is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”
SHOW NOTES:
- Tim Kang’s Instagram
- Focus: A Bishop Highball Project with Tim Kang
- Hamish McArthur Testpiece Episode
- Mad Rock
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
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This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #154 was finished.
Kevin Thibault and Josh go deep on the legendary ‘Karma’, the current development happening in Font, skin management, and the issues of weight vs performance.
We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.
Support the show
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Kevin Thibault is a fixture in the Fontainebleau scene. He grew up there, started climbing there, and continues to climb there for almost 40 years now!
It runs in the family too, his Dad climbed there and was the one who brushed the legendary ‘Karma’ which was sent by Fred Nicole and became one of the most famous boulder problems in the world.
Hear from Kevin all about Fontainebleau, what makes it special, and what it has taught him in his journey deep into the 8th grade.
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.
Support the show
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Tyler Thompson is one of the best young sport climbers in America with multiple 5.15 ascents and over 100 5.14 sends.
Tyler shares his perspectives on sport climbing in America and why sport climbing hasn’t grown as quickly as bouldering.
And we get to hear some of his hard earned wisdom about how to become and better climber and why there are no shortcuts to time on the rock.
SHOW NOTES:
- Tyler’s Instagram
- Tyler’s YouTube Channel
- Full Metal Brisket (15a)
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
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Ned Feehally is an absolute legend from the UK. He’s one of the founders of the iconic climbing company, Beastmaker, and he’s flashed up to V14. How’s that for an intro?!
Ned also wrote one of the best books on training — “Beastmaking”, and lately he’s been working on 2 new companies he started with his wife, Shauna Coxsey, “Foxy Climbing” and “Mini Beasts”.
SHOW NOTES:
- Beastmaker
- Beastmaking
- Foxy Climbing
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
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Shauna Coxsey is an 2x All Around Bouldering World Cup Winner, an 11x Gold Medalist, An Olympian, The First British Woman to do V12, V13, V14, and she’s a Mom. Since becoming a Mom, Shauna is back in top form and quickly sending multiple V14’s this past year.
Shauna is an incredible athlete in every sense of the word and in this episode she shows exactly what makes her so incredible.
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”
SHOW NOTES:
- Shauna Coxsey Instagram
- Shauna Sending Mito (8B+/V14)
- Foxy Climbing
- Mad Rock
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
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This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #149 was finished.
Emil shares his longterm goals for YouTube and climbing media in general. Emil shares what he thinks current pro climbers could do better in the media space. Josh and Emil also discuss the number of V17’s in the world as well as the possibility of Adam Ondra flashing V15 or doing V18.
We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.
SHOW NOTES:
- Emil’s Instagram
- Emil’s YouTube Channel
- Tension Climbing
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
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Emil Abrahamsson is one of the most famous climbers today because of his incredibly popular YouTube channel. Some of his videos have been viewed over 10 million times!
Emil also is an incredibly strong climber with sends as hard as V15.
Find out how Emil balance YouTube with his love of climbing and how he responds to those that say he’s just a ‘YouTuber’ and not a ‘real climber’.
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.
SHOW NOTES:
- Emil’s Instagram
- Emil’s YouTube Channel
- Tension Climbing
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
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This is a continuation of the last episode with Kenny, #147. Please listen to that episode first for context!
Kenny and Josh hop back on to explore even more drama and links between Mad Rock and 5.10, Evolv, Butora, Red Chili, Black Diamond, So iLL, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Mammut, Edelrid, Yosemite Bum, Cypher... did we forget anyone? Oh ya, Unparrallel! You can't miss that one...
Enjoy this deep dive on the usually opaque world of climbing gear manufacturing!
SHOW NOTES:
- Kenny's Previous Episode On Testpiece, #147
- Kenny Suh Instagram
- Article About Young Chu (Mad Rock's Founder)
- Mad Rock Instagram
- Mad Rock Website
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
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Kenny Suh is the CEO of Mad Rock.
Kenny tells us all of the behind the scenes of how climbing shoes are made, WHO actually makes them, the impossible tradeoffs in rubber, how shoes will be made in the future, and some of the innovations of the past and the potential ones in the future.
Really fun one that exposes the behind the scenes of shoe making and sheds a surprising light on what’s actually going on.
SHOW NOTES:
- Kenny Suh Instagram
- Article About Young Chu (Mad Rock's Founder)
- Mad Rock Instagram
- Mad Rock Website
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
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Chris Weidner just sent his first 14c at the young age of 50 years old. Hidden beneath that spectacular achievement is a pyramid of climbing all over the world in many different styles, from FA’ing multi pitch 5.13 trad to summiting mountains in Alaska and Argentina. All of this started when he became member #112 at the first climbing gym in the US!
You’ll also recognize Chris’ voice from his years as a commentator for US Nationals and Psicobloc competitions.
SHOW NOTES:
- Chris’ Instagram
- Chris on The Green Mile (14c) by LT11
- Chris on the FA of Galmbers Fallacy (13b multi pitch FA) by LT11
- Kong Extendo Cheater Draw
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
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This is a behind the scenes discussion with Chris Schulte, right after Episode #144 was finished.
We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!
Don’t miss Episode #144 for context!
SHOW NOTES:
- Chris Schulte’s Instagram
- Chris Schulte’s Black Diamond Page
- Chris Schulte’s Testpiece Episode #144
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
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Chris Schulte has been there and FA’d that. You may know of Chris, but you probably haven’t met him because Chris likes to stay off the beaten path. Way off the beaten path!
In this episode Chris drops so much knowledge and history about climbing that no matter who you are you’ll enjoy some new stories that you haven’t heard before.
SHOW NOTES:
- Chris Schulte’s Instagram
- Chris Schulte’s Black Diamond Page
- Josh on French Tickler in Hueco (filmed by Chris)
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
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Simon Lorenzi has done more V17’s on the planet than anyone other than Will Bosi (3 vs 4). And by the time you read this, there’s a good chance Simon has another one or two under his belt!
That’s because we chatted with Simon during his trip to Red Rocks where he is working on Return Of The Sleepwalker and Shaolin, the two V17’s there.
This was an INCREDIBLE conversation with one of the best boulderers in the world. This is a must listen!
If you loved Simon as much as we do, we’ve got great news… you can get trained by him through his company Bushido Climbing!
SHOW NOTES:
- Bushido Climbing
- Simon Lorenzi’s Instagram
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
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Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance.
This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Rob nearly doubled his finger strength on an overcoming isometric test. That’s a big deal, but what makes this an even bigger deal is that Rob is a V14 climber, 48 years old, and has 30+ years of hard training already under his belt. Rob is no stranger to training either as he recently retired as the Head Coach of the Irish Climbing Team, and has a degree in Sport Therapy.
Tune in to hear more about the subtle change in finger training the was so successful for Rob. How “squeezing the lemon” can help with finger strength gains while simultaneously reducing injury risk and total fatigue. Learn about why we should focus on muscular adaptations during our training rather than connective tissue ones. And how intention is the key to strength gains instead of absolute numbers.
Look below at the Show Notes for videos that help demonstrate the training talked about in the episode.
SHOW NOTES:
- Rob Hunter’s Instagram
- Tyler Nelson’s Instagram
- Rob’s Business, My Therapy Physio
- Tyler’s Company, Camp 4 Human Performance
- Tyler’s YouTube Channel
- Tyler’s Demonstration Of Overcoming Isometrics
- Squeezing The Lemon / Orange Demonstration
- Tyler’s Demonstration Of “Finger Curling”
- Tyler’s Previous Testpiece Episode, #114
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #140 was finished. Austin Hoyt shares his thoughts on the Lucid Dreaming, The Process, Devilution, The ‘Earvo’ Project, and how they all compare to one another. Austin and Josh talk about why those grades settled the way they did and if that will change in the future.
Austin also talks about a well known project that seems to go and be V18.
We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!
Don’t miss Episode #140 for context!
SHOW NOTES:
- Austin Hoyt’s Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/hoyt.austin/
- Austin Hoyt’s / Veez YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@Climbveez
- Austin Hoyt’s Testpiece Episode #140: https://youtu.be/i2unRIlVdHk
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
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Austin Hoyt is one of the young guns out of the North East crew that has been absolutely crushing lately.
Austin recently FA’d the North East’s first V15, Big Bad Wolf, as well as sent Lucid Dreaming [V15+] using a new ‘double-clutch’ beta for the iconic crux move.
Austin shares a ton about what makes the North East special and why it’s been producing some of the strongest climbers, such as his close friends Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Adam Shahar who have also recently been on the podcast.
SHOW NOTES:
- Austin Hoyt’s Instagram
- Austin Hoyt’s / Veez YouTube Channel
- Issac Leff’s YouTube Channel
- Beta labs (Austin’s Company)
- Mad Rock
- Decoy Holds
- Mimic Holds
- Testpiece Podcasts Mentioned:
- Noah and Benn Wheeler
- Adam Shahar
- Ross Fulkerson
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
This episode is brought to you by Mad Rock! Mad Rock is run by REAL climbers, and that’s why they supported Ross Fulkerson and Testpiece to go on an awesome trip to Mallorca where they filmed “Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson”.
Between the Tides is a deep-water-soloing film that follows Mad Rock athlete Ross Fulkerson as he climbs above the Mediterranean on some of Mallorca's newest lines. With short weather windows, Ross uses lessons learned from the world of comp-climbing to make the most of the climbing between heavy rain and big swells.
This podcast gives a behind the scenes look at the creation of the video and fills in all the gaps that a 20 minute video can’t quite capture.
SHOW NOTES:
- “Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson”
- Filmed and Edited by Raul Onyett
- Ross Fulkerson’s Instagram
- Ross Fulkerson’s YouTube
- Ross’ Previous Testpiece Episodes:
- Podcast #3
- Podcast #4
- Podcast #124
- Podcast #133
- Mad Rock
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #137 was finished. Kai Whaley shares a bit more about some of the projects left in Red Rocks, his favorite place to climb in the world, his ticklist for some upcoming trips, and the differences between being a ‘good ‘climber and a ‘strong’ climber.
We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!
Don’t miss Episode #137 for context!
SHOW NOTES:
- Kai Whaley’s Instagram
- Kai Whaley’s YouTube
- Kai Whaley’s Episode, #137
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
“What up gangstas and shorties, it’s your boy, Kai."
Kai Whaley is best known for his amazing YouTube Channel where he has been vlogging his sessions on Return Of The Sleepwalker (V17) and Shaolin (V17). He is close on both of them, especially ROTSW, and it wouldn’t be surprising if by the time you read this he’s sent!
Kai is currently 18 and is unofficially the youngest person to ever climb V10, V12, and V16. And if he climbs one of those V17’s in the next few years, he’ll also take the title for V17.
Kai’s YouTube is popular because he is funny, authentic, and an all around good guy (along with being insanely strong). He lives up to all of those attributes and more on this episode!
SHOW NOTES:
Kai Whaley’s Instagram
Kai Whaley’s YouTube
Board Climb’s mentioned in the episode:
- “Black Widow”, Moonboard 2024
- “Extendo Clip”, TB2 V13 @ 45
- “Menacing Creation”, TB2
- Brian Squire’s Board Account
Videos mentioned in the podcast:
- Off Leash
- A Little Life
- Squ(h)amish
Testpiece Podcasts mentioned in the episode:
- Adam Shahar’s episode
- Martin Keller’s episode
- David Fitzgerald’s episode #1 and #2
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Tim Kang (my dude) is back on Testpiece to discuss the incredible sending spree the youth have gone on these past few months. V17 is just the norm now, and V15's are just for fun and flash attempts.
Tim and Josh also discuss what the future may hold in terms of grading, whether 15d is harder or easier than V17, and Tim shares what he things is the best highball in the world as well as what his next highball project may be.
Episodes with Tim are always fun and full of hot takes. Enjoy!
SHOW NOTES:
- Timothy Kang's Instagram
- Timothy Kang's YouTube
- Focus - A Bishop Highball Project
- Tim's Best Day, Testpiece Podcast
- Tim's Most Recent Testpiece Podcast
- Noah Wheeler's Testpiece Podcast
- Adam Shahar's Testpiece Podcast
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #134 was finished. Zach Galla shares a bit more about some 9A’s / V17’s he’s tried, the project he’s currently most psyched on it, how he used simulators to train for The Process (V16), and who he thinks will get the third ascent of it.
We hope you enjoy this peak into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!
Don’t miss Episode #134 for context!
SHOW NOTES:
- Zach Galla’s Instagram
- The Process, V16, SA by Galla on Mellow
- Pretty Tall on Mellow
- Previous Zach Galla Testpiece Episode #77
- Previous Zach Galla Tespitece Episode #134
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Zach Galla is back after an insanely amazing year. Catch Zach's first Testpiece Episode, #77, here.
Since we last chatted he’s been traveling the world with the goal of climbing the best hard boulders in the world. And boy did he achieve that goal… Get the blow by blow breakdown of Zach’s second ascent of the iconic “The Process”, V16, one of the proudest and most beautiful V16’s in the world that sat for 10 years waiting for Zach after Daniel Woods FA’d it. This could have been a podcast in itself but Zach did many more proud V15’s all over the world and FA’d a new V16 in LCC called "Sosa"!
Zach also recently partnered with Black Diamond and joined a team called “BD Hex”. Hear more about the core climbing companies that are quickly growing and supporting the sport we all love.
SHOW NOTES:
- Zach Galla’s Instagram
- Previous Zach Galla Testpiece Episode #77
- The Process, V16, SA by Galla on Mellow
- Pretty Tall on Mellow
- Best Believe It on Tension
- Lost Tapes on Mellow
- Unstoppable by Chief Keef
- Love Sosa by Chief Keef
- Confluence on Mellow
- DelayMyBelay on Instagram
- Austin Ernst on Instagram
- Zach Galla’s Board Account
- Brain Squire’s Board Account
- BD Hex Team
- BD Hex Instagram
- Toinon Beigne
- Noah Keithley
- Sean Faulkner
- Finn Stack
- Bobby Vannoy
- Antigrav
- Noise
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
A couple of Island Boys just trying to make it to the top!
We’ve got Ross Fulkerson, Marco Giacomangeli, and Bryce Belshin with your normal host, Josh Horsley. These boys recently got back from a trip to Mallorca that involved tons of amazing deep water soloing and some world class sport climbing as well.
Each of these athletes are active coaches or professional climbers. Hear from them about what they learned on the trip and how coaches coach each other. They also talk about how to use fear to your advantage which is absolutely crucial when you push your limits.
SHOW NOTES:
- Ross Fulkerson’s Instagram and YouTube Channel
- Marco Giacomangeli’s Instagram
- Bryce Belshin’s Instagram
- Mind To Motion
- Al Rangel Testpiece Podcasts
- Episode #120
- Episode #7
- Previous Ross Fulkerson Testpiece Episodes
- Episode #124
- Episode #4
- Episode #3
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #131 was finished. Nathaniel Coleman shares a bit more about his thoughts on V17 grades, training while he projected “No One Mourns The Wicked”, and what the name truly means.
We hope you enjoy this peak into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!
Don’t miss Episode #131 for context, and make sure you watch the “No One Mourns The Wicked, V17” video on Mellow!
SHOW NOTES:
- Nathaniel Coleman’s Instagram
- No One Mourns The Wicked, V17 FA, Nathaniel Coleman on Mellow
- Nathaniel Coleman, Testpiece Episode #63:
- Nathaniel Coleman, Testpiece Episode #131
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
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Special podcast!! Nathaniel Coleman just did a V17 FA, “No One Mourns The Wicked”! This is the first ascent of the highly sought after low start to the iconic V15 testpiece, Defying Gravity.
Nathaniel reached out to Testpiece and asked if we could do a podcast to give a behind the scenes story to accompany the video that dropped on Mellow TODAY. Watch the video and listen to the podcast so you get the visuals and the detailed blow by blow!
If you don’t know who Nathaniel Coleman is (really?!!?), you can listen to the first episode he did with Testpiece back on Episode #63. Nathaniel adds this V17 FA to his already world class ticks and Olympic silver medal.
SHOW NOTES:
- Defying Gravity, Nathaniel Coleman on Mellow
- No One Mourns The Wicked, V17 FA, Nathaniel Coleman on Mellow
- Nathaniel Coleman, Testpiece Episode #63
- Austin Geiman, Testpiece Episode #129
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
This episode is a roundup of 5 climbs from Testpiece guests, some of the BEST climbers in the world, sharing what it takes to go from Good to Great.
Josh also shares what’s in his personal note titled “What I’ve Learned From Talking To The Best Climbers In The World”.
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
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Austin Geiman recently made waves when he sent the iconic testpiece, Defying Gravity, V15, after 11 years and 100+ sessions. Austin started trying this boulder while it was still a project and he was there when Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb snagged the FA in 2013 in the film Huntsmen. He continued trying it through the years and then he also was there when the younger generation claimed the long awaited repeats. He finally added his name to the list and has even been supporting the next gen on the sit.
Austin is deeply connected with all aspects of this iconic boulder and he shares with us the background on Defying Gravity, what makes it special, his epic send, and what he thinks about the next level sit.
Austin is also an extremely accomplished life long climber in many other aspects with loads of hard sends and FA’s under his belt, as well as being a World Cup Semi-finalist and Nationals Finalist. He’s also coached, route set, and owns a climbing gym in Colorado Springs (Springs Climbing Center).
SHOW NOTES:
- Austin’s Instagram
- Huntsmen
- Austin Sending Defying Gravity, V15
- Austin’s Gym in Colorado Springs
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Anne-Worley Moelter is one of the most important people in climbing today because she is the CEO of Movement Climbing, the largest network of climbing gyms in the US with a portfolio of 30 gyms and another 3 coming soon. These gyms set the tone and craft the climbing experience for millions of climbers.
Anne-Worley is a lifer who has done SO MUCH for our sport. She started her journey in the industry over 20 years ago working as an assistant manager at a gym. She went on to hold many different roles in the industry such as being a founding member of ABS, running USAC, and of course, opening the original Movement in Boulder, CO in 2009 with her husband Mike Moelter.
Movement has gone through a lot of changes since that first gym, but now Anne-Worley is back to run the much larger organization.
Tune in to hear Anne-Worley share insights on how our industry has evolved and where it's heading. You can't miss these insights from someone who is in a unique position in climbing and has worn almost every hat you can wear in the industry!
SHOW NOTES:
- Movement Climbing Website
- Movement Climbing Instagram
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Timothy Kang, aka “Tim, My Dude” is back on the pod to talk about the latest climbing news, an update in his life going from a pro-climber to a weekend warrior, and hear about Josh’s recent trip to Mallorca.
If you are new to the podcast you may not recognize why he is “Tim, My Dude” and that is because of the many many podcasts Josh and Tim recorded previously and how each podcast started. If you like Josh and Tim’s vibe on this one, be sure to visit the previous dozens of episodes where Josh and Tim cover all things high level climbing.
SHOW NOTES:
- Shaolin, V17
- Noise (Sean Bailey Clothing Co)
- Wheel Rock Defying Gravity Sit
- Kai Whaley Trying Shaolin
- Charles Barefoot V17
- Pete Whittaker Trying It
- Terranova V16 or V17?
- Spots of Time
- Darth Grader
- FOCUS (Tim climbing highballs in Bishop)
- Tim Climbing at Moe’s
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Natalia Grossman is one of the top female competitors of all time. She has won an astounding 11 World Cups and 4 World Cup seasons in a row! She also competed in the 2024 Paris Olympics for Team USA.
Even though Natalia won the WC season in 2024, it was a tough year for her. She suffered a serious injury during the semi finals in the first World Cup competition of the year. Somehow she pushed through it to win the competition, but afterwards it was clear that the injury was a major one. The worst part? This was just a few months before the Olympic Games.
Hear from Natalia about what it was like dealing with her injury through the Olympics as well as the entire season where she ultimately still pulled off multiple World Cup wins and won the all around title. Natalia also goes into the ups and downs of the pressures she has felt over her career. Both when she was the underdog and then the top dog.
Natalia also shares how she knows when she’s ready for a competition. And here’s a hint — it’s not when she sends a no-handed slab boulder!
SHOW NOTES:
- Natalias Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/natalia_grossman/
- Natalias Board Climbing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/natalia_boardclimbs/
- Natalia and Brook Climbing in RMNP: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-mvzn_QjAQ
- Kilter Climbs Natalia Mentioned:
- Miami Vice Grips: https://www.instagram.com/p/ChYAAl1FlLI/
- Death Touch: https://www.instagram.com/p/CaLdEd6JtMr/
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
This is a follow-up episode to the last Melina Costanza podcast, #119. That episode was one of the fan favorites, josh favorites, and even favorites of other professional climbers. Go listen to that one first, because it was amazing and will set the stage for this follow-up episode.
It’s only been a month since Melina last came on, but in that month she won US Nationals, both in Lead and Bouldering, and did so for the second year in a row. Yes, in 2023 she won Lead and Bouldering and in 2024 she AGAIN won Lead and Bouldering! On top of that she won multiple high level local comps this month and found the time to go outside and do a slew of double digit boulders. One of which was a near flash of a V13 (she still sent 2nd go)!
Melina is incredibly articulate and insightful on the intricacies of performing at the highest level of competition. In the last episode she detailed her training leading into Nationals, and since she had such a stellar performance we wanted to sit down and explore exactly how that training turned into perfect execution.
Don’t miss this one… These two pods together are not just a 2x, it’s squared. (Ya, that's a lame joke, but it's true.)
SHOW NOTES:
- Melina Costanza’s Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/melinacostanza/
- Melina’s previous Testpiece Podcast, #119
- 2024 Double Gold Champ
- V13 Second Go
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
This episode is brought to you by Mad Rock! Mad Rock is run by REAL climbers, and that’s why they supported Ross Fulkerson and Testpiece to go on an awesome trip to Mallorca where they recorded this podcast.
Ross is back on the pod after a multi year hiatus. Ross was actually the very first guest back on episode #3 and #4!
Since then Ross has won tons of comps, competed in tons of world cups, climbed hard boulders, hard sport, even hard trad! In the last few months Ross has been on tear doing all of those disciplines at a high level.
Josh went out to Mallorca to join Ross and they sat down for a chat about the thread that connects all of these disciplines together and how Ross manages to perform at such a high level in each of them.
Ross also shares what it’s like to test new and updated shoes by Mad Rock. How does he make sure they can handle all the things he throws at them? How does he figure out what to suggest to make them even better? How does Mad Rock actually take that feedback and turn it into a better product? This is a cool behind the scenes look at how pro’s actually interact with their shoe companies to make the shoes the best they can be.
SHOW NOTES:
- Ross Fulkerson’s Instagram
- Ross Fulkerson’s YouTube
- Al Rangel Testpiece Podcast
- Ross’ Previous Testpiece Episodes:
- Podcast #3
- Podcast #4
- Mind to Motion Clinics: https://www.mind-to-motion.com/
- Flair Manual Espresso Maker
- Mad Rock
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Adam Shahar is the name that keeps coming up when I ask who is an up and coming star. At 18 he had a breakout year where he won bouldering nationals, climbed V15 in a few sessions while he was on the road doing WC’s, and then became IFSC’s Athlete of the Week when he narrowly missed finals with a 7th place finish at the Prague WC. He also had perhaps the most incredible board climbing session of all time where he did 5 V13’s on the Tension TB2, flashing 1 of them and doing 2 of them second try…
Adam is known to be one of the physically strongest climbers in the world, and in this episode he shares his ‘hot take’ on how to train for World Cups.
Adam also dives into how he’s leveled up his mental game recently which he credits a lot of his recent success to.
This is an awesome episode with someone you need to keep an eye on!
SHOW NOTES:
- Adam's Instagram
- Adam climbing The Understanding (V15)
- Adam’s epic Tension TB2 Session
- IFSC Athlete of the Week
- Transience (V14)
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
If you watched the Paris Olympics then you remember Hamish McArthur’s stand out performance to secure an incredible 5th place finish.
Hamish had already stood atop World Cup podiums and won Youth Worlds, but his Olympic showing was a clear level up.
In this episode Hamish shares what changed for him in the year leading up to the Olympics and how it ultimately led him to having one of the best competitions in his life.
Don’t miss this incredibly inspiring and thought provoking chat with the inimitable, Hamish McArthur!
SHOW NOTES:
- Hamish’s Instagram
- Life Is Limbo
- Michael Gardner Arcteryx Post
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
You’ve heard of Matt Fultz, but you may not realize just how amazing Matt is. He’s climbed eight V16’s. 8. Eight!
By the way, two of them are rarely repeated and recognized as some of the hardest in the world (Hypnotized Minds and Big Z). He’s FA’d 7 climbs V15 and up, including 2 V15’s in one day!! We’re pretty sure that’s a world’s first, but who’s counting…
Matt has also been coaching for well over a decade and founded Off The Ground coaching (“OTG”), which is one of the most highly respected remote coaching services. Matt is just as passionate about being a coach as he is a climber.
In this episode Matt shares some of his tactics for climbing harder right NOW, how to manage long term projects, how he uses video analysis, what the hardest board climbs in the world are and much much more.
SHOW NOTES:
- Matt Fultz Instagram
- Off The Ground Coaching with Matt
- Wheeler Brothers Testpiece Podcast
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Alvaro Rangel, Al, is back on the podcast after 2+ years! Al was one of the first guests and one of the best. The last podcast we did was incredible, but somehow Al managed to top it with today’s episode.
He is the founder and head coach of Team Class 5 in San Diego, CA. Al is also part of the Team USA coaching staff and supports the team at World Cups as well as at the recent Paris Olympics.
Al’s insight into what makes climbers the best in the world is rare. He shares his thoughts on what mastery in climbing looks like, the most important skill for a competitor to develop, and even his case studies on the top climbers in our sport.
SHOW NOTES:
- Team Class 5
- Al’s Instagram
- Testpiece Podcast #7 with Al
- The Art of Learning
- Testpiece Podcast with Garrett Gregor
- Mevo Camera
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Melina Costanza is an 8x US National Champion. Sometimes as a youth, sometimes as a collegiate, sometimes in Open, sometimes in bouldering, sometimes in lead, sometimes both. Yes, last year at Open Nationals (2023) she won both Bouldering and Lead. She is set to compete in the 2024 Open Nationals coming up in a week, so after you listen to this podcast make sure to mark your calendars for October 14th and 15th and cheer her on!
In this podcast, Melina shares her extremely deep dive into mental training and how she translates that to her incredible performances in competition. It is an absolute masterclass on this topic that cannot be missed.
She also talks about her views on indoor vs outdoor climbing and how that’s recently changed and why.
Finally, Melina covers a sensitive, but important, topic. Eating as an elite athlete. Melina struggled with an eating disorder at one point and suffered a serious injury as a result. She has returned to sport since then, and done so successfully (see above, Nationals 2023 double gold). Melina shares how to best frame eating when you are an athlete.
Because let’s face it, weight management will always be part of the equation in sports. But it needs to be done the right way. It is not a simple black and white topic, even though media often makes it out to be, which is a disservice to those trying to figure out their path forward. Melina is making a huge contribution to the community by sharing how she navigates the nuances so that she can perform at her best in a sustainable way.
SHOW NOTES:
- Melina's Instagram
- Melina’s Favorite Hype Song, Runnin
- Melina’s Favorite Chill Songs, Taylor Swift
- Day One Journaling App
- Alex Johnson’s Testpiece Podcast Episode
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Ward Byrum is the Director of Routesetting for all Movement gyms in the East Region. Yes, that Movement. The biggest climbing gym chain in America and probably the world. That means that Ward and his team decide what the climbing will be like for thousands of climbers. Scratch that, ten’s of thousands of climbers. It might even be hundreds of thousands of climbers or even millions! But hey, who’s counting? The climbs his team puts up will likely be their first experience of climbing and quite possibly the only climbing they ever do.
Tune in and hear what the principles are behind one of the biggest route setting programs to ever have been created. And hear about it directly from Ward, who has been behind the scenes during the incredible evolution of indoor climbing and setting these past few decades.
SHOW NOTES:
- Ward’s Instagram
- Movement Gyms
- ReTex Holds
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Tom Randall is an iconic climber and founder. You might know him as one of the Wide Boyz, as one of the founders of Lattice Training, as a high level coach, or for his 5.14 Trad FA’s or even his FA of the worlds hardest crack boulder, aptly named “The Kraken” [V13]. Ya, Tom’s done it all, and has helped the best in the world do it even better.
In this chat, Tom gives a masterclass on what actually gets climbers better. He also shares how to best use data from metrics, how the testing for metrics have evolved, and why Lattice started capturing these metrics in the first place!
SHOW NOTES:
- Lattice Training
- Quantifying Technique Video by Lattice
- Aidan and Bosi on Burden Of Dreams Replica
- Tom’s Instagram
- Wide Boyz YouTube
- Magnus Midtbo Testing with Lattice
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
David Fitzgerald is back after an absolutely incredible season. Dave was previously on for Testpiece Episode #55, a total fan favorite.
Last season Dave had a list of climbs in different styles to tackle. Tierrany, a V14 endurance bloc in Yosemite. Equanimity, a V15 ultra tech testpiece in Tahoe. Lucid Dreaming, the V15+ straight forward power problem in Bishop. And Big Z, a V16 power endurance mega-testpiece that has thwarted many of the best climbers in the world.
Did we mention he did this all after sustaining his worst finger injury ever?
Oh wait, did we also mention that during this he formed Highpoint Productions and released the block buster hits “The Gold Standard” and “In Sequence”?
Dave is one of a kind and about as under the radar as it gets. Tune in to hear from one of the best on what it takes to do hard blocs and what it takes to edit at a similarly high level!
SHOW NOTES:
Highpoint Productions
The Gold Standard
In Sequence
Support the show
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Garrett Gregor was the head routesetter for the Paris Olympics boulders! That’s all you need to know. Just stop reading this description and start listening now.
Garrett is also an accomplished competitor, placing as high as 4th at Nationals, an experienced coach at the legendary Team ABC, and did we mention he’s an elite routesetter?! IFSC Level 5, etc, etc etc…. Didn’t you already see that he was the head routesetter for the Paris Olympic boulders?!
In this banger episode Garrett shares all of the nuts and bolts of what it’s like behind the scenes of high level competition setting. He shares the grades of the boulders and routes at the Paris Olympics, and he tackles the classic question “Do Setters Control the Outcome of Competitions?”.
Don’t miss this one!!
SHOW NOTES:
IFSC Guidelines
Jiro Dreams of Sushi
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Dr. Tyler Nelson is the founder of Camp 4 Human Performance, a company focused on bringing the principles of sport science to climbing.
Tyler is focused on being a cutting edge resource for training and rehabilitation of climbers. This means he is always knee deep in research papers from all sorts of sports and asking how we might apply those lessons to climbing. Then he explores these potential findings through testing, ultrasound, and training with some of the best athletes in climbing. Some of his questions and hypotheses have ruffled feathers, but that is exactly what makes Tyler interesting and a valuable asset to our community.
In this episode Tyler goes deep on finger morphology, the frame work for how climbers should understand strength training, why training on an unlevel edge could be useful, what a talon grip is, and a paradox we all run into when starting to strength train.
SHOW NOTES:
- Camp 4 Human Performance Instagram
- Camp 4 Human Performance YouTube
- Camp 4 Human Performance Website
- Unlevel Edges by Zach at Specialized Masochism
- Allison Vest podcast
- Ultrasound post by Tyler
- The Wrist Wrench
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This is the episode to learn everything about one of, if not the, most important parts of our climbing kit — chalk! The real topic here is how to maximize friction between your hands and the holds, which is crucial for sending your hardest.
Kevin Brown joins the pod and goes deep on the science of how to get the best friction on holds. He talks about the chemical make up of the best chalk, what it has, what it doesn’t have, the pH of chalk and why that matters. He also shares the history of chalk (and pof!), some of the potential future advancements in chalk, and how to prepare best prepare your skin and holds for each attempt.
Kevin knows this area so well because he’s the founder of Friction Labs. Kevin is also a lifelong climber who climbs into the V double digits and has contributed to the climbing community in a bunch of ways. Not only is he the founder of Friction Labs, he also helped found the Denver Bouldering Club which was one of the first real gyms in that area.
SHOW NOTES:
- Friction Labs Website
- Friction Labs Instagram
- Carlo’s Dark Side Episode
- Athletic Hands
- Liquid Chalk
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Professional climber, coach, routesetter, and frequent Testpiece podcast guest, Tim Kang, is on the pod this week to share his thoughts about the Paris 2024 Olympics.
Tim may be best known for his highball ascents that culminated in the film Focus, but Tim is also a seasoned competition climber with multiple World Cups under his belt. Tim loves competition climbing and studies in deeply. Hear his thoughts on the most important climbing competition ever.
In this episode, Tim and Josh dive into how fair the results were, what the routesetters tested, the grades of those routes, and what we might see in LA 2028 Olympic Games.
SHOW NOTES:
- Nathaniel Coleman Testpiece Episode
- Jesse Grupper Testpiece Episode
- Sean Bailey Testpiece Episode
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Tom O’Halloran is arguably the best climber in Australia. He’s an Olympian, he’s climbed 15a and v14, and done FA’s nearly up to those grades as well.
But the reason we wanted to have him on the podcast is because of the amazing YouTube content he puts out. He dives into the nuances of hard climbing in a way that actually helps people climb hard. Tom shares his knowledge in an open and honest way that doesn’t sugar coat the process or make it seem simple or “black and white”.
In this podcast Tom goes deep on the important things, like how to do hard moves, what mental progression actually looks like day-to-day, and how to apply your board climbing to sending equally hard outdoors.
SHOW NOTES:
- Board climbing is KILLING your outdoor climbing
- How to do hard moves. Olympians simple technique
- Tape fingers the RIGHT way
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Ethan Salvo is back on the podcast! Ethan's first episode (linked here) was a fan favorite so when Josh visited Squamish for a few days they met up do an impromptu live/in-person recording.
Since the last recording, Ethan has climbed arguably the hardest climb in Squamish, The Singularity. The experience he had on it was fascinating and made him question everything he knew about hard climbing and grades.
This has changed Ethan's approach to climbing and helped him find more joy and learn the lessons he needed the most.
SHOW NOTES:
- Ethan on Kodama (V11)
- Ethan on The Singularity (V15)
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Noah Wheeler and Benn Wheeler represent the next generation of climbers. At 21 and 19, they are some of the strongest board climbers in the world and their styles reflect that. They also are bring a unique point of view to the world of climbing content with their YouTube channel, Wheel Rock.
These brothers have climbed up to V16 outdoors, FA’d up V14 (in the first 3 months of climbing outdoors!), and FA’d or climbed the hardest board climbs the world has ever known.
In their short time in the climbing world they have climbed with the best, and cemented themselves as some of youth to keep your eye. In this podcast they share their take on hard climbing, how we too can go from good to great, and whats it store for the future.
SHOW NOTES:
Wheel Rock YouTube Channel
Top Board Climbs named:
- Jellyfish (Kilterboard)
- Kitten Paws (TB1)
- Franconian Sky (Kilterboard)
- Black Beauty (Moonboard, 2016)
- Project 2 (Moonboard, 2016)
Hardest Board Climbs:
- Drunks Unlimited (Benn, Kilterboard)
- Extend Clip (Benn, TB2)
Hardest Board Move:
- Blockland 1st Move
- Jellyfish 2nd Move
- Siamang 1
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AJ has been competing at the highest level for decades. She has won multiple Bouldering World Cups and she climbs just as hard outdoors with her iconic send of The Swarm (v13/14) in Bishop which was recently featured in Reel Rock.
AJ also coaches some of the top up and coming Youth Athletes (one of her athletes recently won Nationals), through her business Delphi Climbing.
In this podcast AJ gives tons of tips on how to perform your best and the drills she runs her athletes through. She also shares her struggles of returning to competing after a major injury and how she got over the hurdle of competing again.
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Drew Ruana is one of the strongest boulders in the world. Period. He over a hundred V14+ sends, and lots of then are V16. While some other climbers may have that amount of blocs under their belt, no one has accumulated this many in such a short time.
Drew goes into his infamous “Send Colorado” journey, which is his goal to send all V14 and up boulders in CO (nearly 200!). He shares some of the ones that are left giving him trouble (e.g. Megatron, V17). And he goes into some finer points of grading, including the difference between V14 and V16.
Drew also loves to share the knowledge he’s gained, and he’s doing so by writing books and even replying to questions on Reddit!
Drew talks about the most common mistakes he sees in climbers, the common plateaus climbers face, and his biggest tip — Play the long game and work your weaknesses!
SHOW NOTES:
- Drew’s YouTube Channel
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Felipe Camargo is one of the top climbers in our sport with sends up to 9b and V15. That’s impressive… But what’s more impressive is that he began climbing Brazil where there was no professional climbers, no routes past 8b+, and no modern training facilities.
Felipe managed to send the iconic 50m 9a+ Papichulo by mainly training on a 3x3m spray wall at 85+ degrees! And even more incredible, is that he didn’t have other climbers of his caliber there to push him. He was the trail blazer.
His story of going from unknown Brazilian kid to the first professional climber in South America is amazing and sounds almost like a fairy tale. But his hard work and passion is the real secret behind some of his “lucky” breaks.
Over his career Felipe has gone on to establish Brazil’s first 8c, 8c+, 9a, and 9a+! You can see some of these in his latest film, a breakout hit, Tropical Lines. He also won the Netflix series Ultimate Beastmaster. He has taken his earnings and time and poured in back in the Brazilian community to help the next generation of climbers. To give them opportunities that he didn’t have.
SHOW NOTES:
- El Bon Combat Video
- Tropical Lines Video
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Tim Kang is a frequent guest on the podcast, but now you get to hear him do a more typical interview.
Tim is a professional climber and coach that has competed at the World Cup level, won a Psicobloc competition, climbed v14 and 5.14d, but he is best known for his daring sends of the wildest highballs in Bishop which culminated in the popular film Focus.
Tune in to hear Tim’s arc as a climber, from his early days when he struggled to keep up with everyone else, to his success in high pressure competitions and on death defying hard boulders.
SHOW NOTES:
- Focus
- Tim’s Best Day podcast
- Tim’s Classroom
- Testpiece Shirts
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Greg Loh was one of the strongest boulders in the world during the mid 90’s and early 00’s. He traveled all over the world putting up FA’s of V13+ and climbing with the best. He competed in WC’s, the X-Games, and even won Nationals twice for speed climbing.
He is known for being one of the first people who truly embraced bouldering as a discipline in itself. This is back when bouldering was extra dangerous due to the lack of pads and Greg has 9 broken ankles to prove it! This also lead him to be known as perhaps the world’s best spotter, a job he took extremely seriously and caused at least 1 of those ankle breaks!
Greg also brought an aggression and intensity into climbing that hadn’t been seen before. His background in football and weightlifting, as well as larger than normal size, came out as an intense try hard that is now synonymous with hard climbing. Greg was the bouldering buddy you always wanted — strong enough to catch you on a big fall, committed enough to do so, and his infectious aggression brought out the intensity you needed to send.
SHOW NOTES:
- Greg on an easy lap of Midnight Lightning V8
- Peak Performance book
Text the show! (ps -- it won't let us reply, it you want a reply, email hi@testpiececlimbing.com)
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Entitlement is the opposite of flow and perhaps the most damaging frame to have over the long term in your climbing. This can come from training, previous sends, or comp placement.
Hear stories about Daniel Woods and other pro-climbers who have avoided this frame. And hear from Tim Kang and Josh Horsley about how they coach others and themselves to guard against it.
SHOW NOTES:
- NEW!! Testpiece Pocket T-Shirt
- SUAV Shoes
- Rhino Skin Solutions
Text the show! (ps -- it won't let us reply, it you want a reply, email hi@testpiececlimbing.com)
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We love board climbing. And if you do too, or even if you are just board curious, this episode it for you. The history of boards, board training, board ethics, board best practices, the future of boards. BOARDS!!
This was a special in person recording in Colorado with part of the Tension Climbing crew (Will Anglin, Michael Rosato, and Quinn Spadafora). This episode was recorded the day after Josh and Tim did a YouTube video with Tension, “Comparing the Boards: Testpiece Tours the Tension Board 2”. You need to watch that video ASAP!!
Tension and Testpiece also collaborated on a special giveaway. You can win a Testpiece T-Shirt and a Tension training tool of your choice by winning. BONUS — the Tension training tool will have the Testpiece logo on it as well!
All you have to do is climb an amazing climbs on the TB2 and post them to Instagram, tagging @tensionclimbing and @testpiececlimbing.
The climbs are:
- “Testpiece Mirror” (both mirrored versions), on the mirrored layout of the 12x12 wall.
- “Testpiece Spray”, on the spray wall layout of the 12x12 wall.
- Or ANY of your favorite Classics on and TB2 layout. You must post in your comments why it’s your favorite to enter the raffle.
- Uncut footy only 😇
SHOW NOTES:
- Tension and Testpiece YouTube Video
- Undeniable Vibes
- Tension Shoe Spray
- EGODEATH Video
- Tension Board 2
- Mimic holds
- Bubble Wrap Project at CATS
- Josh’s Board Account (@thebarnboard)
Text the show! (ps -- it won't let us reply, it you want a reply, email hi@testpiececlimbing.com)
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Send us a Text Message.
Dave Burleson is one of the top agents for professional climbers. He represents athletes like Sean Bailey, Nathaniel Coleman, Nina Williams, Jesse Grupper… the list goes on, but all of them have been on the podcast so we put them here first!
Before being an agent, Dave worked at the iconic brands Petzl and The North Face as an athlete coordinator / manager. So that means Dave has been on both sides of the table, representing brands who sponsor athletes and now representing the athletes themselves.
Dave shares with us the REAL side of what it takes to be a pro, what pro’s actually earn, and the tips on how to become a professional climber.
He has also been involved in producing famous films like Alphane, Defying Gravity, and Tropical Lines. He’s been involved with too many to list, so we just picked some recent ones! If it has to do with TNF and Mellow, it’s a good guess that Dave had a hand in it.
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Episode #100!!!! Thank you all for the support. What a journey it’s been. This episode was an absolute banger that encapsulates a lot of the Testpiece message.
Tim and Josh break down the ‘Simple’ path that the best climbers follow to being great. And then they detail the appropriate role that strength plays in this path.
They also go over the latest news and cover the amazing media that has been dropping as well as a quick review of the Moonboard 2024 set by Tim.
SHOW NOTES:
Janja on Bügeleisen sit (8C/V15)
Retro Modern with Tim Kang
Tropical Lines
Patreon for Classrooms
Patreon for Testpiece and Recordings
Steve Radar Moonboard Account
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Nina Williams pushes the limits in every discipline of climbing there is… comps, bouldering, highball bouldering, big wall, sport climbing, and even free soloing.
In this episode she takes us through a harrowing experience she had while free soloing the Casual Route of the Diamond, a multi pitch 5.10. Nina ended up off route during the climb and thus onsight free soloing, 800 feet off the deck.
Nina also shares what has propelled her to explore and master the different disciplines in climbing and what it means to be a long time professional in the climbing world.
SHOW NOTES:
- Nina Williams Instagram
- Bad Kitty Podcast
- Too Big To Flail, V10
- Splash of Red, V10
- Ray of Light, V13
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Tim Kang was just in SLC for the World Cup and NACS. He got to watch and session with some of the best climbers in the world. Hear from Tim what his major takeaways were that can help you too.
SHOW NOTES:
- Honnold’s Comments About Competitions and $
- Petzl Roc Trip
- James-Caro Wedding Present
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Davin Bagdonas has developed 1000’s of climbs all over the world. Elite climbers, and previous podcast guests, like Jimmy Webb, Roman Yalowitz, Eric Jerome call up Davin when they want to go on a wild adventure to try to find the best boulders in the world.
Davin takes us on a trip around the world to places fraught with danger, and explains this up and comping lens on climbing termed “Alpine Fusion”. This is where you go deep into the backcountry to search and climb boulders.
SHOW NOTES:
- Multiverse FA by Jimmy Webb
- The Winds Backcountry Bouldering (The Revenant, V15)
- Iconic Photo of The Revenant by Nathaniel Davison
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You’re midway through a redpoint burn and you’re tired. There’s a bunch of moves to go and you tell yourself that you’re so tired right now there’s no way you’ll ever send.
But the truth is, you have no idea how far you will get or if the send is actually right there for the taking. You can’t trust your feelings!
Tim and Josh tackle the problem of doubt creep and how to find actual success during your attempts.
SHOW NOTES:
- Testpiece Patreon
- Ryuchi Almost Sending
- Bon Voyage with James Pearson and Adam Ondra
- Michaela Kiersch
- Hueco
- Era Vella
- Tick List
- Aidan Robert’s On New V17’s?
- No Edge Shoes
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Palmer Larsen is one of the top coaches in the country. This podcast has soooooooooo many helpful tips and frameworks to get you to the next level. DO NOT MISS his description of how to foster an environment for long term success via deliberate practice @ ~1:28!
He is the head coach of Momentum Climbing Team, in SLC, one of the top climbing teams in the country. He oversees 80 kids every week AND the coaches!
Palmer is also an extremely accomplished athlete. He has been competing at a high-level for over a decade including internationally at World Cups. He’s climbed 14d and sent his first V15 a few days before we recorded this podcast!
SHOW NOTES:
- Momentum Climbing Team
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What is the best way to approach a climb?
It’s a simple question that may be one of the most important things to ask yourself before you pull on each time, but it’s never talked about. Tim Kang, professional climber and coach, shares the fundamental strategy needed to get your best performance each time.
Announcement!!
$5 Patron’s now have access to all Classroom recordings via Spotify, or through the Patreon app! That’s 20+ hours of NEW content solving the climbing problems we all have! Go to Patreon and sign up now!
SHOW NOTES:
- Devilution by Shawn Raboutou
- Elias Sending Burden of Dream (v17)
- Dana White on Lex Fridman
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Allison Vest has THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD (according to the internet), and she is finally releasing her secret training plan to us! It’s only $9.99, and the best part is Testpiece listeners get 20% off for a limited time! Get it here NOW! 🥸
Allison shares about what it’s like to climb with the extremely strong fingers and why that’s important to climb hard but not everything. Then we go deep into hangboarding. Seriously Deep.
Allison also tells us about the transition from Competition to Outdoor climbing, the different joys they bring and the mental approaches she has learned to help her succeed at both. Don’t miss the LeBron James tip that helped her send her latest V14!
She also talks about creating FLOAT, a YouTube channel that emphasizes women’s accomplishments in climbing.
SHOW NOTES:
- Allison’s Secret Hangboarding Protocol (only $9.99)
- Hanging the Beastmaker Edge + 100lbs
- Campusing on the 4mm’s
- Solving a Rubik’s Cube while hanging
- Jerry Moffat’s book Mastermind
- Keenan Takahashi Testpiece Podcast
- FLOAT Trailer
- Circle Up Podcast (with Allison and Kyra Condie)
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Tim Kang and Josh Horsley explore how often to have limit sessions. What limit sessions really mean. And what non-limit sessions look like.
They also cover the latest news, give important PSAs, Pro-Tips, and of course there is a rant. There’s always at least one rant.
SHOW NOTES:
- GoFundme for Adriene
- Felipe Hoo
- Beastmaking Book
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That's right ladies and gentlemen -- Jimmy Webb!
Jimmy is one of the best climbers our sport has ever scene, and one of the humblest and kindest climbers as well.
Please enjoy this wide ranging but always fantastic chat with Jimmy Webb.
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The topics are in the title!
A big focus on what Tim is “re-learning” as he comes back from his serious knee injury.
SHOW NOTES:
- Team Trials Instagram Post by Ryan
- Paul Robinson on Hueco Rock Rodeo
- Nathaniel Flashing Scarface
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Martin Keller is one of the few people to boulder 8C+ / V16... But what's really incredible is he just did it right before he turned 46 years old!
Martin is an incredible climber, coach, and teacher. In this episode he shares:
- How to gain limit strength, rather than just getting tired.
- The best way to project climbs (he's famous for his decade plus projecting ability).
- How he's said "No" to naysayers his whole life and proved them wrong.
- The way to avoid, and deal with, injury.
- What the big differences are between training indoors and outdoors and what to learn from it.
This one was special because it took away Josh's excuse on why his best days of climbing are behind him!
SHOW NOTES:
- Ninja Skills Sit FA (8C+ / V16)
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Tim’s back at it and with a big smile. Hear how he’s been returning to his peak strength after injury. Tim also talks about how he coaches clients through plateaus.
Big shout outs to the crews that make life special for Tim and Josh and what they did to help them be their best.
Bosi repeats ROTSW, and just about every other hard thing in the world.
And Josh reports back on the project Tim coached him through in the last episode.
SHOW NOTES:
- Felipe Hoo’s Famous 360 Kilterboard Send
- Daniel Woods on ROTSW
- Will Bosi does ROTSW
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Matty Hong takes us to Mallorca where he snagged the second ascent of Big Fish. A 9a deep water solo that culminates in a dyno at ~20m / 60ft!
Matty was out there filming for the latest Reel Rock climbing with the legend Chris Sharma. Since he is often the guy behind the camera we asked him to share some tips for any aspiring climbing film makers and he fully delievered!
Last, but certainly not least, he takes us to Ceuse to tell us about the interesting things he learned from climbing the iconic Biographie -- the worlds first 5.15a.
SHOW NOTES:
- Matty Hong Website
- Matty Hong on Instagram
- Matty Hong on TikTok
- Big Fish (video of Sharma on the crux)
- Reel Rock 18 Trailer
- Biographie 15a Send
- King Lines
- Trailer
- Sharma on Los Humildes Pa Casa
- Ethan Pringle on La Hostia by Boone Speed
- Jim Thornburg Instagram
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Drugs, cruxes, moonboarding, injuries, making climbs your b*tch... This one's got it all!
Tune in for tons of pro-tips that will help you climb better today, and set yourself up for the long term success that we all are striving for.
SHOW NOTES:
- 2017 V8 / 7B+ on Moonboard 2016 Set
- Podcast #33 with Andy Tollefson
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The man, the myth, the Mustache — Keenan Takahashi!
Keenan shares his unique approach to climbing. He seeks out the best lines in the world and then uses that as fuel to transform his body and mind so that he is able to climb them.
Keenan also has created one of the coolest new brands in climbing, ANTIGRAV, that embodies his psyche and ethos for climbing.
SHOW NOTES:
- ANTIGRAV
- Creative Visualization [Book]
- A Little Life [Movie]
- Express Yourself [Song]
- Physics Hyperbole [Squamish Climb]
- Keenan
- Josh
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2024 is off the a bang with incredibly hard bouldering FA’s happening non-stop.
Is this because USAC caused one of the strongest crews in the world to stop training for the Olympics and start crushing rock again?
Hear more from Tim about what a session is like when multiple V16 climbers get together to try the hardest boulders in the world.
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Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now.
- Sean recently FA’d the low start to Evilution [“Devilution”] which was a long standing sought after project that clocks in around V16 and is now one of the hardest, proudest lines in the world!
- How he started climbing and training at a young age and what it was like cutting his teeth on his local crags like Smith Rock.
- He shares about what WC’s were like as an American 7+ years ago when the USA was not competitive at all. Spoiler — it was different and not so glamours!
- His recent time spent on hard outdoor bouldering and the lessons he learned in sport climbing that help in bouldering.
- What he thinks the progression in sport climbing will look like.
- Sean also expands on his recent Instagram post that shared on the struggles pro-climbers have behind the scenes making ends meet. Don’t miss this part.
Absolutely incredible can’t miss podcast by one of the top climbers in our sport!
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Tim shares a common problem that holds people back that he sees in even some of the top athletes he coaches. They jokingly call it "Vomit Mouth".
Learn about what this is and how you can make sure to avoid it in your sessions.
SHOW NOTES:
- Noah Wheeler on Sleepwalker
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Carlo Traversi is back to tell us about his recent FA of The Dark Side V16 (suggested grade) in Yosemite.
Josh thinks this FA will go down in the history books as THE testpiece of our generation in Yosemite bouldering. Tune in and see what you think.
Carlo explains the incredible tactics he had to employ to get this FA done. It was absolutely mindblowing how detailed he got to make this send happen. A true example of Mastery.
SHOW NOTES:
- The Dark Side Instagram Post
- Valley Uprising
- Yabo Roof
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Happy New Year, my dude.
Tim and Josh get meta about how to have the best 2024 possible by asking the question — why can’t all sessions be good ones?
SHOW NOTES:
- Mastery by Robert Greene
- Atomic Habits by James Clear
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Jeremy Meigs and Joel Ruscher are West Coast bouldering OG’s. They started climbing 3 decades ago and were part of the birth of modern HARD bouldering.
Tune in to hear about the early days of bouldering and how it set the tone for what’s going on today.
There’s tons of can’t miss stories about young Chris Sharma and what Hueco, Bishop, and Font were like in the 90’s.
We are so grateful to get to share their stories and not have them lost to history!
SHOW NOTES:
- West Coast Pimp by Steve Montesanto
- Stone Crusade by John Sherman
- Revelations by Jerry Moffat
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F*CK! Tim busted his knee. Not the best way to spend the holidays...
The main topic for this episode is what Kids do better than Adults, and what Adults do better than Kids.
Tim and Josh also talk about the latest ascents of two previous Testpiece Guests -- Defying Gravity by Nathaniel Coleman, and Sleepwalker by Zach Galla. This leads into a discussion about the demonstration of strength while climbing and how it has or hasn't evolved over the years.
SHOW NOTES:
- Nathaniel Coleman, Defying Gravity (V15)
- Noah Wheeler, 3rd Ascent of Defying Gravity
- NOTE: This video had not been released when podcast was recorded.
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Zach Galla has been ticking off some of the hardest boulders in America while simultaneously competing at the highest level. He’s always vying for the podium in any US competition and has spent time on the World Cup circuit as well.
Zach goes deep on this podcast about what it’s really like to compete at these high level comps. What the setting is like, how the scoring works, and why it can be frustrating but rewarding too. We also talk about his love of outdoor climbing and how he balances this with competitions.
Zach is one of the physically strongest climbers in the game right now, as determined by the scientific method of Josh watching him climb and being amazed. But this is balanced by his technical training and he shares how different types of climbing ask different things from you.
SHOW NOTES:
- Board Lords
- Spyro Gyro, V7
- Castaway, V7
- Half Moon, V14
- Wild Boyz, Episode 1
- Confluence
- Testpiece Podcast Reviewing Confluence
- Jared Roth Testpiece Podcast
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Why do we call board climbing “not technical”? What does this really mean?
Board climbing wasn’t the planned topic of the day, but once Tim and Josh get talking about boards they have a hard time stopping!
Then Tim and Josh talk about being the Conductor of your climbing, and how/when to employ two major mindsets during your sessions.
SHOW NOTES:
- Steve Rader doing AR Moonboard Masters 2019
- The Conductor by The Faint
- Nilo Batle’s Coaching
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Jesse Grupper recently punched his ticket to Paris 2024 as part of the men’s USA Olympic team!
This is on top of his already incredible last few years with multiple gold medal wins at the WC, an incredible flash of Livin’ Astro (14c), AND his flash of Pure Imagination (14c) just the day before recording! Jesse is on a tear at comps, outdoors, on lead, on boulders… on everything!
Jesse’s path to securing his spot in the Olympics was anything but straight forward and he shares how a painful failure at a WC bouldering was crucial to his success. He is a master at using goal setting and optimism as tools to achieve his dreams and he breaks down exactly how he does it.
Jesse also tells us about his insane amount of training volume, his tips for success while sport climbing, and his enthusiasm for all things human performance and how he is helping people from every walk of life via soft robotics.
We were so grateful to have Jesse on the pod! He is one of the nicest, strongest, and all around best people in the climbing world and we are grateful he is going to be the ones representing the USA at the Olympics.
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Which board is best?! Tim and Josh disagree... but not for the reason you might expect.
Spray Wall or Standardized Wall? Wood holds or plastic? What angle?
Tim and Josh love board climbing and we know you do too. They dive into the nuances of what makes a board great, and maybe more importantly, who that board is great for.
SHOW NOTES:
- Spraywall vs Standardized Wall Podcast with Will Anglin and Michael Rosato
- Flo does Floatin (V16)
- Stokt App
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“Motherf*cking Squamish beta, don’t try hard!” — Nalle Hukkataival
Squamish is having a renaissance and Ethan Salvo is part of the team of young guns making it happen.
Him and his crew are repeating the hardest boulders Squamish has, and adding their new ones to the list. And that’s special, because these boulders just don’t get done very often. Not by locals. Not by pro’s. Not be anyone other than absolute technical masters.
That’s because Squamish is different. The technical ability to climb hard here is unique and when you combine that ability with the strength this new age crew is bringing, lines are getting opened that are hard physically, technically, mentally, and condition wise. Sending hard in Squamish is something you earn. But when you do earn that ability, it seems to translate well to anywhere else.
If you can climb V15 in Squamish, you can climb V15 in CO… But the reverse doesn’t seem to be true. So let’s find out — what makes Squamish special?
SHOW NOTES:
- FLOAT - a squamish bouldering film
- ANTIGRAV
- Ride The Lightning (josh)
- Cursed Climbing
- At Home in the Muddy Water
- Zen in the Art of Archery
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How much would you pay to smoke a joint with Chris Sharma? What about have Daniel Woods be your sommelier for the night?
Tim and Josh start off by talking about Sean Bailey’s viral post about his struggles making it as a Pro Climber.
For the ‘Topic of the Day’, Tim and Josh share tips and tricks on how to shift into Outdoor climbing mode after a long hot summer spent in the gym.
SHOW NOTES:
- Sean Bailey’s Instagram Post
- Dave Graham’s (The Wizard) new V16
- Music Mentioned:
- Slipknot
- Raining Again, by Betoko
- Sky, by Playboi Carti
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Roman Yalowitz is here and he’s going to break your projects and crush your dreams, just like he did to Josh 😭.
Actually… Roman has been doing the complete opposite in Tahoe for the last 10 years! He is a prolific developer that is leading the new “Golden Era” going on in Tahoe right now. Roman, Jimmy Webb, and a handful of other world class climbers (including past guest David Fitzgerald), have been putting up some of the hardest blocks in America. And they’re just getting started!
Hear more about:
- Tahoe’s latest Golden Era
- What makes Tahoe Special
- The Reality behind Developing (“Crowbars and Glue”)
- Ethics in Developing and Gluing
- What Roman learned from his World Class Crew
- How Tahoe stacks up to Switzerland
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The routesetting at your gym is the one of the main ingredients of getting you better at climbing.
Does your gym have bad, good, or great routesetting? Do you even know the difference? What do you do if your gym’s setting sucks?!
Tim and Josh also address some of the latest V16 downgrades as well as some controversy over a comment Josh made about “cheating”.
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Andy Lamb has climbed multiple V16’s, flashed multiple V13’s, and placed as high as 3rd in Bouldering Nationals. But you’ve probably never heard of him because he’s not a professional climber, his Instagram is rarely updated, and his 8a scorecard is pseudonymous.
And yes, Andy and Katie Lamb are brother and sister!
Hear Andy’s unique path in climbing that is more relatable than other V16 climbers.
SHOW NOTES:
- Paradox of Choice
- "Most people overestimate what they can do in 1 year and underestimate what they can do in 10 years." -- Bill Gates / Andy Lamb
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First go best go!
Tim and Josh talk about flashing as a specific form of climbing. What it shows about the grade of a climb, what it shows about the climber, how to get better at flashing, and also the ethics behind a legitimate flash.
Listen in as Tim completely changes Josh’s mind on flashing and then find out Josh’s best tip for flashing hard that he got from past guest, Carlo Traversi.
SHOW NOTES:
- Martin Keller sending V16 @ 45
- Shawn and Brooke Raboutou on the Moonboard
- Shawn Raboutou Flashing Spectre
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History has been made — Katie Lamb is officially the first woman in the world to climb V16, Box Therapy!
Katie is an absolute master of the mental game for high level climbing. She treated us with a detailed breakdown of exactly what she does. How to approach projecting, how to make each try count, and the importance of persistence.
The podcasts starts out with Katie sharing with us the vision of climbing that she loves. What has inspired her since she was young, and how she has chosen to pursue climbing now that she is the one doing the inspiring. Then we get to hear the details on her send of Box Therapy, V16. Then Katie shares about how she went from Good to Great.
SHOW NOTES:
- First Ascent: The Movie (Trailer)
- Will Fraker: Spotify and Instagram
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Tim and Josh chat about Yosemite bouldering, gym climbing, bad setting, and the hard truth that just because you’ve climbed V8, doesn’t mean you’re a V8 climber.
Then Tim and Josh answer some of the burning questions from listeners:
- When and how-to session with the local strong crew.
- How to deal with all the training advice on social media that is sometimes contradictory.
- How to handle with “morpho” climbs, and what to do if you are on the shorter or taller end of the spectrum.
SHOW NOTES:
- Becoming a Supple Leopard
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When Mike Heinstein speaks about the climbing world, we listen.
That’s because Mike is an extremely successful entrepreneur with more experience in business than perhaps anyone in climbing 🤯. Mike has always been a life long climber and now that he’s done with his previous business, Art.com, he has set his sights on the world of climbing by opening up the innovative Mosaic Boulders in Berkeley, CA.
But the best thing about Mike is that he is genuinely here to help. He freely shares all of his insights about the climbing industry, how to open your own gym, how to run your own gym, and even his email (mike@mosaicboulders.com) in case you need more advice! This conversation was sparked from a recent trip to Europe where Mike had some epiphanies about where we might see the climbing gym industry head, and it was fascinating to say the least.
Someone like Mike is rare — deep business knowledge, a true love of climbing, and a willingness to share with others. We are so grateful we got to sit down with him and share this conversation with you all!
SHOW NOTES:
- Contact Mike: mike@mosaicboulders.com
- Mosaic Boulders
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How do you fit it all in when you are busy? How do you decide what is important and what isn’t? What if you show up feeling like crap?
This podcast is all about how to deal with the realities of a busy life while still progressing in your climbing.
Tim and Josh have different approaches because they have different lives. Tim is a pro-climber who has to travel often and struggles to have a set schedule. Josh works a lot and has a family which means his schedule is always short on free time.
But the key behind progress is the same for them both — always showing up with intention to do the things that actually get you better each time and cutting out anything that gets in the way of those sessions.
SHOW NOTES:
- Katie Lamb Climbs V16
- Dave MacLeod Rhapsody Endurance Training
- Becoming a Supple Leopard
-
28 -- Tim's Best Day
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Holy sh!t folks, this one was special. Nathaniel Coleman went deep on this pod in a way he hasn’t before elsewhere.
He's an Olympic Silver Medalist, a 3x National Bouldering Champion (in a row!), and he FA'd the iconic Grand Illusion, a V16. Just one of these things would cement him as one of the top climbers in our sport.
In the podcast Nathaniel shares what is actually going through his mind when he’s competing on the biggest stages, and the approach he uses when things don’t go as planned.
He also shares for the first time publicly why he isn’t competing in the upcoming Olympics, and his thoughts on whether or not competition is something he will pursue in the future.
Topics include: Nationals vs WC’s vs Olympics, the current WC season, Twitch Streaming, the “Power of Psyche”, proper excitement levels when competing, his outdoor bucket list, and so so much more!
NOTES / LINKS:
- Kendama
- Nathaniel's Twitch
- Grand Illusion
- Power of Psyche
- Dry Canyon Series (Lee Majors FA + $6mm Man Proj)
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You're Training Wrong, my dude.
Maybe... In this podcast, Tim and Josh ask the question "Are we thinking about training all wrong?"
This topic goes into the current state of "#Training", and figuring out how to answer The Fundamental Question: "How do we get better at climbing?".
Spoiler -- It's not a simple question. As Will Anglin says: "Climbing is hard."
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Eric Jerome has multiple V15 FA’, he is a prolific developer, and he works in the climbing industry at KAYA.
But what made us want to talk to Eric on this podcast was his pursuit of the BEST boulders. Who doesn’t want to climb the best boulders?! First Eric had to answer the question “What makes one boulder better than another?”
Join us on this journey as we dive deep into the origin of the “Star” system, and how to apply it. Then go to Eric’s website: Top100 to see the best boulders, and follow along on his YouTube while he travels the country trying to climb these boulders and better understand what makes a boulder good.
NOTES:
- Max Zolotuhkin's Article
- Eric's Top100 Website
- Eric's YouTube
- The Revenant Video (V15), 6 Stars
- Promised Land Video (V11/12)
- "Schelling Point"
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Sequencing is one of the core abilities we must develop as climbers. It starts with the macro, but if you want to really solve that crux you have to go into the micro details.
But learning how to know where to look for efficiencies in the micro is hard. Tim and Josh try to demystify this process and show how to figure out where to eek out tiny bits of help in order to unlock that seemingly impossible crux move.
Oh ya, and there’s lots of normal banter and general psyche that all of the episodes start out with. Enjoy!
NOTES:
- Sam Richards climbing V15 at age 15
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An absolutely EPIC podcast with Will Anglin, one of the founder’s of Tension Climbing. Other than creating the coolest climbing brand that every “climber's climber” love, Will has coached for years, smashes V14, and dove deeper into training than most.
Tune in to:
- Hear amazing stories from the legendary training center / “The Shop” at the Tension HQ. This is where the strongest in America get stronger, and has been visited by anyone that’s anyone while traveling through CO.
- Find out what Will has learned by training alongside the greats, and how he has integrated what makes them special into his own climbing.
- Know more about how a company like Tension has become so successful and what it takes to put out amazing products.
- And just so so so much more. Didn’t we already tell you that it was EPIC?!
NOTES:
Tension Climbing Website
Tension Board 2 Video
Joshua Waitzin Podcast w/ Tim Ferriss
Will's Articles Mentioned:
Foundations
Hangboarding: A Way
MESHUGGAH - Bleed
Quotes:
“Find what you love and let it kill you.” — Charles Bukowski
“Don’t seek to follow in the footsteps of great people. Seek what they sought.” — Zen Master Basho
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Lot’s of psyche but also some bad news on this one…
You can’t miss Tim’s reflections on his “favorite episode” with Jason Kehl!
Tim and Josh discuss some of the questions that were brought up in the first Testpiece Classroom. (Join them next month by signing up on Patreon!)
The podcast closes with a discussion about board climbing and why so many climbers gravitate towards them instead normal gym climbs. It’s a surprising part of the indoor scene and there’s lessons to be learned from the phenomenon.
NOTES
Jakob Schubert’s epic Mallorca video that was brought up: https://youtu.be/YOCwtzqZXWU
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This was a dream come true for Josh — hearing straight from Jason Kehl himself about the FA of Evilution!
But wait, there’s more. Jason’s impact within the climbing world is second to none. You’ve either climbed on one his FA’s, or climbed on a gym wall he’s designed, or grabbed a grip he shaped. Yes, he’s that prolific.
Tune in and hear more from the absolute LEGEND, Jason Kehl!
Find more from Jason here:
Instagram
Real Climbing [YouTube]
Hueco Guidebook
Hold Shaping
Gym Design HYPE Reel
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Tim and Josh are extra psyched on climbing right now. They share what’s been going on in their training and the goals they’ve set for themselves. They also share some highlights and lessons learned from the David Fitzgerald interview last week.
The topic of the day is about how to maximize your training while dealing with the reality of what facilities you have available. How do you train for a 60m tufa route on a moonboard? Tim and Josh don’t quite agree… but their approaches both have merit and will help you get to where you want to go.
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David Fitzgerald is “one of the most underrated climbers out there” per Jimmy Webb. If that doesn’t make you hit play immediately, keep reading because there’s more…
On top of being a v15 climber (v16 soon!) with insane finger strength, he is also an extremely talented editor/videographer. You probably have seen his newest film with Keenan Takahashi, “A Little Life”, and if you haven’t yet… Why not?!
In this podcast, David breaks down his training techniques, how his fingers got to be so strong, tips on how you can do the same, as well as a peek behind the scenes on what it looks like to be part of the Mellow crew where he is developing new areas and hard boulders in Tahoe, Yosemite, and more.
He also shares the process of editing “A Little Life” and what it was like working with the top talent in our industry to bring about one of the best films of the year.
Don’t miss this one!!
Find David on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dv_fitzgerald/
Join Tim and Josh on July 19th @ 7pm PST for a Live Classroom / AMA! Available to Patreon supporters (LFG!). Sign up here: https://www.patreon.com/TESTPIECE
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The ’23 Boulder WC season is over and it was a banger! Even if comps aren’t your thing we all have a ton to learn from watching the best of the best battle it out. This season had some of the most impressive breakout talent — hear Tim and Josh talk about the 16 year old phenom, Sorato Anraku.
And per usual, the pod starts with a review of the most recent guest — Jon Cardwell. There was a lot packed into that episode so Tim and Josh made sure to pull out some of the highlights and share their takes.
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Jon Cardwell is one of the top sport climbers in the world with multiple 5.15’s sends under his belt. Oh ya, and the 3rd ascent of a legendary V15 you might have heard of, “The Game”.
And during this podcast you’ll see why. Jon is introspective, open minded, and relentlessly puts in the work. Join us while he shares how he has figured out how to send hard, and what he has learned from the all star crew he has spent the last 15+ years traveling and climbing with.
You also don’t want to miss his wild stories of dirtbagging around Europe and all of the amazing places he’s visited. Saying Jon is well traveled is an understatement.
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Most of the time we don’t have a coach sitting behind us giving feedback. So what do you when you are by yourself and stuck? How do you do learn to coach yourself when no one is around?
Tim and Josh share how to use video, questions, and friends, to answer the questions “Why?” [did I fall]. Tim shows how this is one of the most important skills to develop in order to get better, forever.
They use real examples of routes and boulders they struggled on to show how they were able to progress without the help of a coach. By being their own coach!
ANNOUCMENT:We started a Patreon! Support us HERE and unlock cool new ways to get more of what you love about The Testpiece Podcast. Your support means we can devote more time to helping us all learn how to go from Good to Great.
Definitely join the "LFG!" tier because then you get to hang out with Tim and Josh on their monthly live "Ask-Me-Anything" Zoom calls. This will be like a live podcast where they choose a topic and go deep, but the big difference is YOU will be there to interrupt and ask questions about your unique situation or anything else you've been wanting to get their take on. These recordings will never be public and will only be available to Patrons.
The first AMA will be on July 19th @ 7pm PST. Sign up on Patreon HERE. See you there!
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You care about climbing. I care about climbing. And so does Jamie Emerson. Because Jamie cares so much he is willing to dive into the minutiae to help us define our sport. The How and the Why behind how Jamie does this is fascinating and will hit home to all of us who love climbing so much.
Jimmy Webb jokingly called him the “Sheriff” and somehow that nickname stuck. But that one word title doesn’t even begin to scratch the surface of Jamie’s mark on the climbing world. Over the years Jamie has done it all — climbed extremely hard boulders, developed new areas, route set at an international level, and spent time with the best climbers in the world.
These experiences means Jamie has a lot to share. Don’t miss this one.
You can find Jamie's guidebooks linked below:
- RMNP Bouldering
- Mount Evans Bouldering
- On KAYA
Is B-Pumo Ogikubo the best climbing gym is the world?
Japan has created some of the strongest climbers in the world, especially in the competition scene, and Tim wanted to know how they did it.
So Tim made the pilgrimage to Japan to see what all the chatter was about. He goes into the setting, the holds, the style, and the yakitori.
PS -- Here's the tripod Tim mentions in his Pro-Tip: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WHLXN6N?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_N00JV2ETQ1EQWCQ68T1R
You know him, you hate him, Tristan Chen — the ‘Villain’ of climbing!
We’re half-joking, Tristan is only the ‘Villain’ because it makes the climbing world more fun and he has opinions that he’s not afraid to share. And make no mistake, these opinions are not just to cause problems — they are well thought through and interesting. The truth is, most high level climbers are already having these conversations about grades and abilities behind closed doors, but Tristan is willing to shine light on what’s being said behind the scenes and give his take. His ‘hot takes’! And he has a lot of them…
So tune in and listen to someone who is finally saying what we were all already thinking.
Sometimes climbing can be intense. Maybe it’s in competition, maybe it’s being way off the deck and in serious danger, or maybe you just know it’s the last try you have because of skin, conditions, or the end of a trip coming.
Tim and Josh share how to handle these situations, and even better, how to prepare yourself for these moments through training. Don’t just hope that you will rise to the moment, use their practical tips and tricks to make sure that you are ready when these times come.
Carlo Traversi (@carlodenali) is a professional climber that has mastered every discipline in climbing. 5.14+ trad, 5.15 sport, V16 boulders, USA Nation Team for over a DECADE! Carlo has done it all. On top of this, he founded one of the top gyms in the nation — The Boulder Field.
Tune in and learn how Carlo achieved all of this and how you can too.
Don’t miss this one. Tim and Josh think it’s one of the best yet!
Tim and Josh dig into the topic of injuries. How to avoid them, how to work around them, how to train around them, and the mindset you need to get through them and come back stronger.
They both have had their fair share and learned a lot from them. They are often make or break moments in your career, so tune in to hear from our mistakes and the our new best practices.
Pro-Tip: Don’t get injured.
Jared Roth joined Tim and Josh for an epic pod!
There was soooo much ground to cover because Jared has done it all in the climbing world. Be sure not to miss his stories about the early days in Bishop and his FA of the iconic Rastaman Vibration (stand start of Lucid Dreaming).
But Jared is more than just an OG crusher with some of the best FA’s in America — he also now owns the legendary climbing hold company Pusher. Jared gives us the real behind scenes on making holds, shaping holds, and all the nitty gritty that climbing geeks like us love. Enjoy!
Tim and Josh share their takeaways from the last interview with Connor Herson and an interview Tim did for another podcast. Then they discuss some of the drama around hold choice in the latest World Cup.
The pod ends with a listener question that focused on community in climbing. How it comes to be, how to build it, how to join one, and the cool communities that Tim and Josh have been a part of over the years.
Tim and Josh joke that Connor's background of traditional climbing actually makes him Non-Traditional. But this gives him a unique POV compared to others and it makes it all the more fun to hear his take on competitions, bouldering, plastic, trad, etc.
Don’t miss this pod, and definitely don’t miss Connor’s recent film released by La Sportiva — “Traditional at Heart”.
Tim and Josh actually do love crimps. Or at least they like them…
In this episode they go into each of the different crimp types (open, half, full) and the pro’s and con’s of each one. Then they talk about how and why to utilize each type depending on the hold and movement required.
Tim and Josh express their love of slopers and deconstruct the techniques around how to best use them.
Slopers can stump a lot of newer, intermediate, and even advanced climbers, but they are the key to unlocking next level climbing technique.
Tim and Josh go into the application of Balance and Mechanics: Effort.
Tim shows us how Effort is something that is trainable all by itself.
Effort is that “jen ne se quois” that MUST be understood and developed in order to become a great climber.
Tim and Josh go into the next thing Tim addresses with his clients: Climbing Mechanics.
They show the process behind how you can deconstruct hard “stopper” moves to make them as easy as possible. This is fundamental for leveling up your climbing.
Balance on the wall is one of the first things Tim goes over with all of his coaching clients. In this episode Tim and Josh go over what balance means in climbing, how to find better positions when you feel ‘off balance’, and how to execute the next move once that position is obtained.
Tim and Josh go deep on how to sport climb at a high level. They address breathing on the wall, understanding resting, dealing with fear, how to do hard bouldery moves while tied in, and lots more.
Are grades subjective? What exactly do grades represent, and what don’t they represent? How do climbs get their grades anyways? What is the hardest move ever done and how are hard moves related to the actual grade of the climb?
Tim and Josh go deep on grades because, let’s face it, grades matter and climbing needs them.
Josh brings Coach Andy (@coachandytollefson on Instagram) back on to talk about figuring out your optimal bodyweight for climbing and how weightlifting may or may not fit into obtaining that weight. Then they go on to discuss some cutting edge technologies that could be used to help you train more and recover faster including BPC-157, Red Light Therapy, and using a “Cool Mitt”.
WARNING: This pod goes into some subjects that can be sensitive for some listeners because they include discussions around weight.
Links discussed in the show:
Signs you may be Overtraining: https://www.hss.edu/article_overtraining.asp#:~:text=Overtraining%20syndrome%20occurs%20when%20an,succeed%20in%20your%20chosen%20sport.
BPC-157: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30915550/, https://bengreenfieldlife.com/article/supplements-articles/how-to-use-bpc-157/
Red Light Therapy: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/pri.1606
Cool Mitt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_sSjMJIi0A
Tim and his S&C Coach, Andy, discuss the pursuit of mastery in climbing. What that means and what that looks like day to day.
You can find Andy on Instagram @coachandytollefson.
Tim’s Strength and Conditioning Coach, Andy Tollefson, joins Tim and Josh. Andy is a climber and coach based out of SLC who is a certified Strength and Condition Specialist and graduated with a BS in Exercise Science.
They talked about everything from injury prevention in climbing, what Tim / Josh got wrong in the “Pumping Iron” episode, and some of the cutting edge supplements that Andy thinks may become a mainstay for elite climbers. This episode is packed with tips that you can instantly apply.
Stay tuned for a part 2, because we all agreed that we barely scratched the surface of things we wanted to cover.
You can find more about Andy on Instagram @coachandytollefson.
Tim and Josh discuss weightlifting and climbing. What is weightlifting vs calisthenics vs prehab? Is it necessary? Who might benefit? Who might not?
Josh’s recommendation: Hangboarding + ‘Perfect’ Pull-ups + Pistols or Jumping is all 95% of people need. Frequency and quality over quantity. Do these often, and do them right. Sets and reps aren’t as important as intention and quality.
Tim’s recommendation: Muscle-Ups + Toes-to-Bar + Hangboarding. Heavy weightlifting can teach you how to dial up limit intensity.
Tim and Josh talk about how they use supplements before, during, and after climbing to improve performance and recovery.
Tim and Josh reflect on what stood out as the biggest themes in the 2022 climbing year and then they make predictions for what they think will be the biggest themes in 2023.
Tim did it! He sent his longtime project — a link up of 5 highball testpieces in Bishop. All in 1 day. Footprints (V9), Ambrosia (V11), Too Big To Flail (V10), This Side of Paradise (V10), and Evilution Direct (V11). Epic.
In this pod we go behind the scenes and learn about the reality of what it took to put this together. Tim doesn’t hold anything back and talks about what it was like to risk his life for this linkup.
Thanks to Black Diamond for supporting Tim on this goal. Keep an eye out for the upcoming video from Bobby McGee and Brennan Robinson.
Tim and Josh tackle a few listener questions with the main focus being on "What is ‘Comp Style’?"
Bishop is one of Tim and Josh's favorite places on Earth. Tim was there while recording the pod so they decided to go deep on what makes Bishop one of the best places to climb in the world.
Tim shares his experience at Lead Nationals. Spoiler alert -- he placed well! Then Tim and Josh talk about what Adventure means in climbing and why it’s so important. This leads them into The Meta of climbing and how to excel in it, or anything, over the long term.
Tim and Josh are joined by Maxim Zolotuhkin, a legendary climber and setter that's been at it for over two decades. They discuss aesthetics, setting, competitions in this wide ranging conversation about all things climbing.
Nationals is coming up on November 9th. This is an important comp for Tim that will likely set the tone for his following year. Tim and Josh dive into the training Tim is doing leading up to it and how he's handling the pressure.
Mentioned in the podcast: The Art of Learning by Joshua Waitzkin
Josh and Tim use a recent article from Climbing Magazine to talk about modern climbing gyms. Josh goes into a few rants about how great climbing gyms have become and argues against getting stuck in nostalgia. Tim keeps it positive and adds insight as a competitive climber.
Link to the article "Opinion: Modern Gyms are Failing Outdoor Climbers: https://www.climbing.com/places/opinion-modern-gyms-fail-outdoor-climbers/
Josh and Tim go deep on the Moonboard!
PS — The Jerry Moffat book mentioned in the pod is “Revelations”. Go read it!
Josh and Tim start off by reflecting on the previous pod with Ethan. Tim also talks a bit about the Red and his recent experience at Rocktoberfest.
Then they get to the main event. A great listener question on how to balance your time climbing between the outdoors, the indoors, and boards.
Ethan Pringle hopped on the pod with Tim and Josh!
Ethan’s been at the cutting edge of climbing for decades. He shares what climbing was like when he started and how it has shaped his style and psyche. Don't miss this one.
Check our Instagram, @testpiececlimbing, for pictures of Josh's feature on a JCCA poster, and Ethan on La Hostia.
Josh's pro-tip revolves around the idea of what is an appropriate amount of volume for climbers which leads Tim and Josh into a deeper discussion than expected. Then they transition into a listener question regarding best practices for skin care.
Tim and Josh start off by talking about their limited experience with trad climbing.
Then they dive into Tim's success at his latest comp, a NACS sport comp in Gilbert, AZ ,where he placed second. Can Tim keep up this hot streak going into Nationals?
Tim and Josh start off with some rants about climbing etiquette and grades. Then they tackle a great listener question.
Tim and Josh go deep on board climbing and the different ways it fits into their climbing routines.
Josh and Tim start off by reminiscing about setting and what's actually going on behind the scenes.
Then they dive into a topic Dave MacLeod raised in a recent YouTube video "Can you quantify climbing technique?". PS -- What do you think was the error Dave made when he was climbing at the 3 minute mark?
Tim and Josh start off by accidentally going down the rabbit hole of supplementation and their ‘stacks’ to perform and recover well.
Then Tim talks about his latest competition, Jackalope, and how it went compared to his previous 3 bouldering wins.
The pod finishes with a super fun discussion centered on the new Mellow climbing video “Alphane” where Shawn Raboutou does a new V17/9A. Grades and training, or lack thereof, is the focus.
Tim talks about his latest winning streak and what's changed.
Then Josh and Tim tackle some excellent listener questions.
Josh and Tim are back after Josh's paternity leave. They had way too much to talk about because of the long break but they focus is on Tim's Black Diamond team trip to Lander, WY and what Tim learned while coaching at a 2 week long intensive training camp at Stone Summit in Atlanta, GA.
Josh and Tim cover some great questions submitted by a listener. They also discuss how SLC has become the new “place to be” if you are a serious climber.
Tim just got back from being a male model in Bishop and he gives us the behind the scenes on what it’s like to do a pro photoshoot. Tim also tell us more about the steps he’s taking on his Big 5 Highball linkup in Bishop.
Josh and Tim finish the pod by discussing the latest worldcup that happened in Meiringien. The was the first bouldering worldcup of the season and it did not disappoint!
Josh and Tim talk about the recent climbing movie The Wall: Climb for Gold. This feature length film follows Brooke Raboutou, Janja Garnbret, Miho Nonaka, and Shauna Coxsey on their journey to the Olympics.
Climbing entering the Olympics is a huge deal for the sport and Tim and Josh discuss what it’s like to see climbing on the ultimate competitive stage. Somehow this leads to tons of tangents with discussions on deep water soloing, highballs, and what role danger plays in climbing.
Watch “The Wall” here: https://thewallthefilm.com
This one's a banger!
Al Rangel recently set out on his own to start Class 5, a competitive team based in Southern, CA. Al is one of the best climbing coaches in America, if not the world, and chances are you’ve worked with him if you are a competitor.
In this episode Al shows us how he thinks about creating the best athletes possible. You will get an inside look into how national champions train and where competitions are going. Al didn’t hold anything back in this episode and you can hear Josh and Tim’s minds explode at least once or twice.
You can get in touch with Al via email: al@c5climbing.com
Josh and Tim do a deep dive into the National Team Trials that just happened in Atlanta. This competition is main driver that determines which USA athletes are selected to compete in this years World Cup tour.
Tim didn’t have the competition he was hoping for and so he analyzes how to digest that as an athlete and how to move forward in the right way.
They also dive into some of the ugly behavior that this competition brought out in athletes and show why it’s not helpful for anyone.
See all of the results here: https://usacresults.org/scores/?eid=595
This one is all about the new bouldering vid that dropped on Mellow last week — Confluence, produced by SOHI. Listen to the end so you can learn how to enter into our raffle to get one of the highly sought after SOHI shirts!
Josh and Tim start by going off on a big tangent into the Moonboard world during the pro-tips segment since Josh just got another one. Then they cover all of the behind the scenes about the new bouldering movie Confluence. This movie documents climbers at the cutting edge of new FA's and hard sends in LCC, a granite bouldering paradise in Salt Lake City, UT. You have to hear the mind blowing fact Tim drops about what happened the day that Zach sent Grand Illusion, V16.
Watch Confluence here: https://youtu.be/feQCrhV053U
Find out more about SOHI here: https://www.thesohistudio.com/
This was episode was actually recorded before the Ross and Tim Origin Story. We had all tried to get together to record but technical difficulties prevented Tim from joining.
While Josh and Ross waited for Tim they chatted about climbing. We all thought this would get scrapped but when we listened to it we decided there were so many gems in here from Ross that we had to share. Enjoy this almost ‘lost’ episode with Ross Fulkerson.
Ross and Tim talk about how they got started in climbing, how they met, and why they started the vlog. They describe the make or break moment early in their careers that propelled them to the level they are at today.
We talk about how climbing has evolved and the role the Olympics has played for them and will play in their future.
We discuss Tim's results at Bouldering Nationals, and what it's really like to be a competitor at these mega comps.
Tim talks about his goals to qualify again for the World Cup series and what coaching looks like for high level athletes. Josh and Tim discuss what the mental state of performance is like both indoors and outdoors.
Setting is deeply explored, both in the competition style and the commercial style. What movement types are available and how to stay at the cutting edge of climbing.
After years of deep discussions on what it takes go from being a good climber to a great one, Josh and Tim decide to start a podcast.
Tim discusses his results at the most recent Nationals and what it's like to compete in National and World Cup competitions. Tim also describes his training leading up to the competition and how he's training for the upcoming Team Selection event.
They also talk about some of the differences between outdoor climbing and the competition scene and how they feel about highball bouldering.