Matt's Basement Workshop Video Feed: Recent Episodes
Matt Vanderlist
This is the video only feed for Matt's Basement Workshop Podcast. If you prefer to watch your woodworking content this is the feed for you!
It’s easy to be inspired in the kitchen to make something, and I’m not just referring to food either (okay, maybe I am just a little.) Items for use in the kitchen are popular projects, not only with our spouses but often with family and friends.
My wife Samantha has a long list of things she’d like built to help her keep things organized in the kitchen, and at the top of her list is to get rid of the hideous plastic utensil organizer we’ve had since we first moved in together 18 years ago.
So on today’s episode we’re building a custom utensil organizer for our kitchen cabinet drawer. One that not only holds the crazy number of forks, spoons and knives we own (I have no idea how we’ve accumulated so many) but also all of the extra things that I couldn’t tell you exactly what they do. This is a custom-sized project, so I won’t share a plan for it, but after watching I’m certain you’ll be able to build something very similar for your kitchen drawers if you were interested.
It all comes together using two of the most basic joints in the woodshop, the Rabbet and Dado, and given the number we use, you should become quite proficient in setting them up and getting great results on your next project.
A huge thanks to the folks at Bell Forest Lumber for providing the beautiful tiger-maple for the project from a donation to the show several years ago. If you haven’t checked them out previously for lumber, you should definitely take a look, I have yet to not like anything I’ve received from them.
For years I've been saying I was going to build a new workbench for the basement workshop, and after just as many years of not doing it, it's finally happened!
The "design" of the bench is simple, and the dimensions are perfect for a smaller shop like mine considering the goal turned from making a monster bench like we've seen in magazines, or elsewhere and instead turned to constructing something that would simply help me build projects easier than ever before.
Today's episode isn't a construction video for "HOW I built the bench" but instead it's a "TOUR" of its simple features, materials used in the construction, and a little bit about how I determined the dimensions and joinery.
Items mentioned in the video:
WoodRiver Tail-Vise Screw - Amazon.com
Veritas Tail-Vise Screw - Lee-Valley
Workbenches: From Design And Theory To Construction And Use - Christopher Schwarz
If you're wondering about the episode I mentioned regarding building the plywood top for the old bench, you can find it by clicking here to visit episode 290.
You have questions and comments about the simple thickness planer sled? I have answers; although I can’t guarantee they’re the ones you want to hear.
Thanks to everyone who wrote in!
For the past several months while I've been on the road for work my wife Samantha has been tackling a kitchen project. I've been helping out where, and when I could, but for the most part it was all her sweat and effort going into it (and before anyone asks, no, I didn't build any cabinets or new doors for the kitchen.)
In fact, aside from removing a small partition wall, along with tearing out the countertops and backsplash, the project was really more of a "facelift" than remodel. But now that it's completed, the one project Samantha requested all along was a set of live-edge shelves for where a cabinet once sat. I doubt I'll do much to document their installation; it's pretty straight-forward.
Probably the most difficult part of the build will be carefully drilling through ceramic tile to install them. Of course with that said now, finding a way to mill the 12" wide boards I'm planning to use could've been an even bigger struggle if it weren't for my thickness planer sled.
On today's episode, we're breaking out the thickness planer sled first featured in the Tall Dresser build and putting it to use again.
I can't believe this is happening to me, but I'm getting bit by the turning bug and it's obvious it's contagious!
Now that my time in the shop is currently less than it use to be, I really want to be able to knock out a project or two from start to finish, and the lathe is probably one of the one tools where this is entirely possible.
In today's episode I'm literally turning some scrap maple into a small bowl.
What'll I use it for? Probably to hold keys, or spare change, or more likely M&M's!
In this episode I made quite a few references to the Easy Wood Tools' gouges and detailers I was using (pretty much the entire time.) If you're interested in purchasing them or just checking them out or yourself, you can find them at Woodcraft.com
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Who doesn't need a little more storage space? Whether it's in the woodshop like me, or any where else throughout your living space, small cabinets help to tuck away the clutter and keep things organized.
In this episode we're making a simple, small cabinet from supplies you can easily pick up at just about any home center.
For this one I purchased a few "handi-panels" which are pre-glued and dimensioned boards that eliminate most of the milling we'd have to perform to get them ready for cutting and assembling.
I also purchased some adjustable "euro-style" hinges and a simple wooden knob for the door.
For joinery, it's all about the "blind-rabbet" joint in the corners to assemble the box, but something as simple as pocket-hole joinery or even tongue and groove would work fine too.
Of course you could take a step further and use dovetail joinery or such to spruce it up even more.
The only real "decorative" feature on this simple cabinet is the raised panel on the door.
Originally I planned to leave it a flat panel, but then I wouldn't have had a chance to free-hand the extra wide chamfer all around the edge with my skew rabbet plane.
Regardless of what you do with your small cabinet, this is a quick and easy project perfect for a single-day or leisurely weekend build.
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Over the years there have been a lot of questions from new woodworkers. One of the most frequent is "should I buy a full set of chisels or just one or two?"
The easy answer is "YES get a full set" but that's not always the correct one.
In fact, if I had to rebuild my entire shop from the ground up and retool it, I'd probably avoid an entire set of chisels and instead concentrate on adding one or two high quality versions as needed.
In today's episode I share with you the advice I like to offer new woodworkers (and some experienced ones) when it comes to purchasing chisels.
With so many different tool manufacturers, sizes and even specialty chisels to choose from, it's hard to decide where to get started when buying your first (or next) chisel(s).
My advice is pretty simple, and it can easily transfer to other tools and accessories in your shop later down the road.
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In the previous episode of this two part series "550 Simple Cabinet Construction Pt 1" we started the construction on a pair of overhead cabinets for a laundry room.
The cabinets are about as simple in design and construction as possible. A box with a face frame and a pair of full-overlay doors to enclose them.
The only detail that could be remotely described as "ornate" is the ogee profile routed on the rail and stiles of the door frames. As far as I'm concerned the simpler the better when it comes to cabinet design.
Why? For two reasons; 1) it makes construction a whole lot easier and more predictable, and 2) an entire wall filled with highly ornate cabinets would actually be it's own kind of special craziness.
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Don't tell my wife, but after all these years of her asking if I'd ever consider building new cabinets for our kitchen I'm finally getting around to doing it.
Except they're not for the kitchen, and they're not even for our house. Instead, it's a small build for a client.
The good news is Samantha shouldn't be too upset by it for two reasons; 1) I'm getting paid to build them, and 2) Once I've built these, I'll know how to build ours even better if we still want to replace the existing ones!
In today's episode we're getting started on the construction of a pair of overhead cabinets for my client's laundry room. The case construction is pretty straight forward, and made all that much easier because I'm using a blind rabbet joint which makes assembling them so much easier.
As a matter of fact, that's what we'll be discussing and demonstrating in today's episode - milling the blind rabbet joint and then assembling the case from start to finish.
Then in the next episode we'll move on to milling and constructing the face frame and the two sets of overlay doors to wrap up the project.
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The folks over at Benchcrafted really know how to make tools. Jameel and everyone stand by the products they make so we don't have to worry about whether or not they're going to hold up in our shops. I think it has a lot to do with the fact that they're woodworkers too. They don't just make tools to sell them, they make tools to use them!
It's very fair to say most of us associate Benchcrafted with their outstanding bench vise equipment and plans, but they also make a cool little tool that I picked up while attending the St. Charles, IL Woodworking In America Conference...The Skraper.
The Skraper is more than a handy little tool for removing hardened glue from tight corners of your projects. I use mine for a number of different tasks, and it has yet to fail me!
The guys over at Bora Clamps recently introduced their latest clamping system, the Bora Wide Track Clamp Edge. A straight edge clamp that works very much like a traditional clamp with the added benefit of having a straight edge body attached to it.
The beauty of a straight edge clamp is you can attach it to a surface, such as a workpiece or a tabletop/workbench and run your circular saw, router, jigsaw or most portable tools along the edge. It's a great system for those with limited space or jobsites where you don't have the luxury of large tools with fences and the like.
Add to all of this the fact the Bora Wide Track Clamp has an extra wide body that will not flex while using, extra thick soft pads that can easily handle stock up to 1-1/2" thick, have the ability to angle the clamp body 22-1/2 degrees left or right while clamping or the fact that the body has a T-track system built in.
Today's episode is the 5th part of the series on the Child's dresser. We've jumped ahead a little bit as in real time I started to fall behind so I did some assembly work with the camera off. I'm trying to document as much as I can on these projects, but occasionally things kind of fall through the cracks.
For the most part, today's episode covers drawer front construction from rough to finish. And glue up of the dresser top.
Today's Try It Tuesday is a look at the Czeck Edge Ruler-Stop currently available at Highland Woodworking. A handy little tool that literally fits in the palm of your hand but still has the ability to do great big things.
The Czeck Edge Ruler-Stop works much like a traditional square, but with one big exception...you're not stuck with only using one kind of ruler. The vise like action of the Ruler-Stop opens to a maximum width of 1-1/4" and can accept rulers, shop made story sticks and just about anything that can fit within it's grasp. And because the sides of the body are ground flat and square to the jaws, it can easily be used much like you would a traditional square to layout lines on your projects.
There's a lot the Czeck Edge Ruler-Stop can do, but you won't know until you try it out for yourself. Mine sits in my shop apron pocket so I never have to be without it. But check it out for yourself.
Today's episode is the final in the series on the Maple, Child's Dresser build. Unfortunately as will happen on this show, I did have to jump forward in time a little as I started to fall behind my original schedule to have it completed. Up to this point the vast majority of the construction has been documented, and the only thing that was left to complete was the drawers.
We can come back on another episode and talk more specifically about the drawer construction, but in this episode I'll touch briefly on what I did in this project to make them. As part of the final wrap up on the build I'll touch on some of the subtle details I used to make the dresser as kid friendly as possible.
Hope you've enjoyed it, and if you have any questions don't hesitate to contact me. Coming up for the next build project...the Maple, Child's Bookcase!
There are a lot of workbench accessories on the market, but typically they're either something that needs to be built as part of the workbench top and are nearly permanent components or they're small useful items, but don't have much versatility to them.
A newer accessory that hit the market in the past year is the Veritas Surface Vise. It's a great tool that adds a ton of versatility and options to my less than adequate bench. The basic tool right out of the box worked amazing, and because it's removable head is designed to have shop made accessories attached...if necessary...the options for it's use increases dramatically.
We all want to kick the tires before we buy, but when it comes to certain things in life it's not always possible. Thankfully the folks at Lie-Nielsen understand this and travel across the states and into the great white north to give every woodworker an opportunity to man handle their planes, saws, chisels and more. While the events are slightly different from venue to venue, they're a lot of fun to attend!!
Thanks to everyone who made it to Jeff Miller's in Chicago for the show. It was great to meet all of you and thanks for saying HI, Aiden couldn't believe people actually knew me LOL!!
There are times when I just want to make something for fun and I don't want to spend a lot of time worrying about all the details to make it right. Of course, I do want to make sure it's something I don't mind my name being associated with too! One type of project that's fun and can make a great gift for a loved one is a custom wooden sign.
Whether it's an address plaque so the pizza delivery person knows NOT to miss my door once again or so help me I'll...or a humorous expression for reminding guest they're welcomed to visit but don't plan on staying long. Custom wooden signs are great projects. To make them even better and easier to knock out in your shop, Milescraft created the SignPro Kit. In the box is everything you need to make a wide variety of wooden signs, from horizontal to vertical...letters to numbers...large or small.
All you need is some wood and maybe a dictionary so the neighbors don't shake their heads in disbelief, again. For the typical signs I've created with the SignPro, it's taken only minutes to have everything laid out and ready to route. Quick, simple and time well spent in the shop!
It's Safety Week 2010 and it only makes sense for this week's "Try It Tuesday" to be a safety device. A while ago we had a chance to give-away a Micro-Jig GRR-Ripper as part of our monthly schwag drawing. I couldn't just give one away without trying it out for myself, so for total openness...YES I did get one to tryout and talk about on the show.
That was several months ago, and in that time I've had a chance to run the GRR-Ripper through it's paces. What are the final results and my thoughts? I LOVE IT! Why do I love it? One very specific reason...I feel safe and in control of my stock while using it. How many times can you say that about a tool that can be the difference between injury and a great day in the shop?
To find out more about the GRR-Ripper, visit www.microjig.com. There's quite a few options and accessories for the GRR-Ripper, check them all out for sale at Highland Woodworking.
We're close to wrapping up SAFETY WEEK 2010 and I stumbled across a great article at WOOD Magazine's website. Not one to let a good thing slide by, I asked the folks at WOOD for permission to share it with all of you. Thankfully they said yes!
Today's episode is based on the 12 point checklist mentioned in Shop Safety Checklist. It's a great read and something worth checking out to make sure you're working safe too.
A huge thanks to WOOD Magazine for permission to share this with all of you!
It's another Tuesday and that means it's time for another "Try it Tuesday". This week we have the Kreg Multi-Mark, a great little multi-marking tool for a wide assortment of jobs in and out of the shop.
With three possible blade positions for quick measuring and marking the Kreg Multi-Mark is a handy tool for setting up your blades and bits or creating relief lines around doors and windows for carpentry jobs. And that's just the start, I'm sure you'll find more jobs in your own shop.
Checkout one today at either Amazon.com or at Kregtool.com.
Today's "Try it Tuesday" is all about my shop apron, more specifically the Leather Apron from Highland Woodworking. With it's generous proportions, it's deep flap covered pockets and it's really comfortable feel (once it's properly broken in that is) this is a great apron for any woodworker.
Why would you need a shop apron? With all the little things you have laying around your benchtop, or on top of your stationary tools it's great to have a place to put them where they can be reached quickly and easily. That's exactly what a good shop apron will do. Not to mention protecting you from flying debris and keeping you from being caked in sawdust.
Regardless of whether it's leather, canvas, cotton or polyester? A good shop apron will pay for itself in no time, especially when you don't have to search for your pencil or square.
Today's Try it Tuesday is the Lee Valley Handplane Screwdriver. Since the next few episodes will be continuing our discussion of hand planes, it only makes sense we need to cover some tools or accessories that go along with them.
The Handplane Screwdriver is one such accessory. Unlike an ordinary screwdriver, the full length slot and brass ferrule completely grip the chipbreaker screw ensuring it won't be damaged and make it amazingly easy to tighten and loosen. Along with the easy to grip handle, the handplane screwdriver is perfect for the handplane user.
Finally returning to our discussion on hand planes we pick back up by talking about the roughest planes on the bench. The Jack Planes!
This class of bench plane falls between the large jointers and the smaller smoothers, but they're the perfect size for doing rough work without wearing out the user.
In the Stanley-Bailey numbering system the Jack Planes are the No.5's, No.5, No.5-1/4, No.5-1/2. But in case there's no number or it's a wooden bodied or you're just not sure, the Jack Plane is easy to identify by its size - approximately 9-12 inches in length. Again, not to long, but not to short!
The Jack isn't a plane built for beauty, so if you're picking one up second hand don't be surprised if it's really, really beaten up. But don't worry, it'll work amazing.
The quickest and easiest way to improve an old hand plane is to swap out the original blade and maybe even the chipbreaker. Not that there's anything truly wrong with the original pieces, other than a little surface rust and maybe a nick or two, but if you were to hold the new old and blades side-by-side you'll quickly notice a big difference.
The new blades are much thicker and therefore less likely to flex while being used and typically will hold their edge longer too. If there were any drawbacks to using the thicker blades it would be that they may fill more of the planes mouth than the original blade, but you may find in the case of a smoothing plane, this is a desirable drawback. And of course the cost of the new blades can set you back too, but it's a small price to pay for fantastic results.
Moving along with our discussion of bench planes it's time to take a look at the jointer planes. The jointers are our middle of the road tools. These are the tools we reach for once we've taken our stock from it's rough cut faces and edges, leveled out the big hills and valleys and are ready to take the material to it's final finished dimensions.
The jointers are big planes that have the weight to push through knots and tricky grain with little to no effort. But they can wear you out quickly if you're not careful. Typically I use my own to prep stock for final smoothing with a smaller smoothing plane. But you can easily set one up to act very much like a smoother if you really desired the workout.
To find out more about which planes are which and what kind of job they do best, visit Patrick's Blood & Gore at www.supertool.com.
Today's "Try it Tuesday" is the Veritas Jointer Fence. A great accessory for the hand plane user to help get nice square edges on your stock.
Usable with almost all of the bench planes, it attaches to the body via two, strong rare earth magnets. Once attached to a plane, making square edges is a breeze and easily repeatable. Saving you time and of course aggravation when squaring up a stock's edge. I've used mine for years now and have never had a problem with it. The model featured in today's show is the regular model, but there is a version for low-angle planes too.
If you're interested in ordering one for your shop, visit Highland Woodworking or Lee Valley.
Please remember, every purchase you make helps to support the show! Tell them Matt's Basement Workshop sent you.
We wrap up our discussion of the bench planes today with a discussion about Smoothing Planes. Next to the Jack Planes, the smoothers are probably one of the more common planes in the shop. In the Stanley Numbering System, the smoothers are the lowest numbers, 1-4. But you can easily recognize them by their smaller size, as they're usually no longer than 9-1/2 inches in length and 2 inches wide for a model like the No.4. This is also true for the bevel-up versions of smoothers.
While I prefer to use my smoothing planes primarily for final prepping of my stock for finishing, they can easily be used much like you would a Jack or Jointer plane on small stock. It's only when it comes to working large stock that they're not ideal for flattening or roughing the pieces.
To learn more about the world of Stanley Hand Planes visit Patrick Leach's website "Patrick's Blood and Gore" at www.supertool.com.
Today's "Try it Tuesday" is a look at Bob Lang's "Woodworker's Guide To Sketchup". A really amazing tutorial covering just about every aspect of Google's Sketchup 3D modeling system that a woodworker would need to create stunning and detailed drawings for their next project.
Bob is a great teacher, author and of course woodworker. Bob has taken it upon himself to learn as much about Sketchup as humanly possible, and for the past couple of years has been teaching woodworkers how to get the most from it.
"Woodworker's Guide To Sketchup" is a fully interactive eBook that you load onto your computer and can access while using Sketchup on your next project. It's like having Bob sitting next to you while you're designing. And to add to all of this are the multiple built-in videos that highlight the topics discussed throughout and reinforce the lessen.
Trust me, if you've ever wanted to learn how to use Sketchup or just dramatically improve what you're already doing with it, this is the book for you!
To learn more about it, to download a preview chapter or to checkout some of the embedded videos head over to Bob's website www.craftsmanplans.com.
Long before the summer hiatus this year you might remember our last project build was a Maple Child's Dresser for a client and family friend. It was one of four pieces I was asked to build for their daughter's room. Today we're getting started with the first of a four part series that covers the construction of the next two pieces, a pair of matching Maple Bookcases with adjustable shelves.
The construction is straight forward and the design is loosely based on a Shaker "style" bookcase. Clean lines, strong materials and soft edges were what I had in mind when I sat down to work up the final construction notes and drawings based on the pictures of similar bookcases they showed me.
In today's episode we'll construct the sides of the bookcase and route a pair of grooves in each side panel that will house the adjustable shelving hardware I chose to use. We'll then follow up the construction portion of the video with a look at some of our shelving hardware options and even some jigs we can use to install the hardware. IN FACT...I'm digging up an old homemade jig plan that was submitted several years ago by Don Garner. To check out the plans for Don's Jig "right click and save as..." on THIS LINK.
Huge thanks to Lee Valley Tools for loaning us a Veritas Cabinet 32 Cabinetmaking System and some hardware examples for today's show.
With the side panels glued up and grooved to recess our adjustable shelf hardware it's time to move on to the next part of the Maple Kid's Bookcase. In today's episode we cut and prep the fixed shelves then attach them, along with the top rails, to the side panels from Part 1. My method for this construction process is to use Pocket Hole Joinery. They're strong enough to hold up to the wear and tear the bookcase will endure and make the construction process very simple.
At the end of the build portion, we'll take a look at the options we have for cutting notches in the shelves themselves. Because of the design, the shelves need to "wrap around" the four legs to fit snug against the recessed panel. I use a bandsaw for this task, but if you don't have one...there are other ways this can be accomplished.
In part 3 of the Kid's Bookcase construction we start the final assembly. At this point all the components are cut to their final dimensions and we've done our dry fits to make sure everything is going to come together without a hitch.
While I chose to use pockethole joinery to bring everything together, we'll talk about our OPTIONS for possible joinery in your project.
Another Woodworking in America has come and gone and it's left a lasting impression. Not just on me but everybody I've talked with who attended. This is like no other woodworking show out there right now.
It's not about the vendors, it's not about the lecturers, it's all about the people attending. And I'm willing to admit I was wrong about my fears of the show becoming too big too fast.
Even with the introduction of power tool classes and the combining of design seminars with the handtool lectures, Woodworking in America didn't lose it's focus on what today's woodworker wants to learn and more importantly experience, and it's that experience that will keep me and so many others coming back year after year.
Even if you missed the deadline for signing up to attend the classes with the likes of Frank Klausz, Jim Tolpin, Roy Underhill, Ron Herman, George Walker and Michael Fortune you can still run into them in the marketplace, and what a marketplace it was too!
Imagine all the vendors you've heard the staff of Popular Woodworking go on and on about in article after article regarding the new small manufacturer who's not just selling you a great tool but are using the tools in their own shops too.
Still the one thing that blows me away each time I attend, are the attendees themselves. You may arrive alone, plan a quiet weekend of great lectures and maybe buy yourself something nice but after the first class you'll suddenly find yourself having conversations with your fellow attendees as if you'd known each other for years.
Don't take my word for it, ask anyone who's attended! In fact, checkout some of the great links we've been putting together from my fellow bloggers and podcasters. Here's a link to a post where we've been adding them so you can get another perspective on the event CLICK HERE.
Today's episode contains snippets from a few of my classes on the first day. Including a lecture by George Walker, Chris Schwarz, Michael Fortune and Roy Underhill. Enjoy, I know I did.
Let's take one more trip back to Woodworking in America 2010 and I'll share with you a few more classes I attended as part of this ongoing amazing experience.
I eluded to the "mourning phase" after leaving the show and coming down off my woodworking high as we drove away. That mourning isn't quite what it was a week ago, but I still have moments where I forget I'm not more than a classroom away from one of my many new friends. Hopefully you can make it next year, same location...so you can start making your traveling plans as soon as we hear the dates. Once they're announced you'll hear it from me right away.
Today's episode contains snippets from Glen Huey's "Sliding Dovetails without Fail", Marc Adam's "Amazing Router Jigs for Inlay, Ellipses and 'Faux' Dovetails" and also one more from Chris Schwarz "Scraper Planes".
Once again, don't take my word for how awesome it was this year, ask anyone who's attended! In fact, checkout some of the great links we've been putting together from my fellow bloggers and podcasters. Here's a link to a post where we've been adding them so you can get another perspective on the event CLICK HERE.
In today's episode we get a look at the finished Kid's Maple Bookcase. When I originally recorded the footage I was literally minutes away from the clients picking it up, so I may have skipped over some details you'd like to know more about. But I did cover as many of the final details as I could.
The finish I chose for the bookcase was a combination of Amber Shellac to help match the color of existing pieces the client had already, and then a final top coat of Water based Arm-R-Seal by General Finishes. I could have just gone with the Amber Shellac alone, but I really wanted this project to stand up to the wear and tear it'll probably endure over the years.
If you have any questions from today's episode or any from the first 3 episodes of this series. Don't hesitate to drop me a line "EMAIL ME". Some of you already have, and I'll be addressing those questions in next week's episode where we'll devote the entire episode to answering those questions.
If you have any questions from today's episode or any from the first 3 episodes of this series. Don't hesitate to drop me a line "EMAIL ME". Some of you already have, and I'll be addressing those questions in next week's episode where we'll devote the entire episode to answering those questions.
The Kid's Maple Bookcase project is all wrapped up now and we're about to move onto something new. But before we do, I wanted to answer some questions a few of you had that came up along the way. As you probably already know (if you've seen Parts 1-4 of the build) I tried to offer alternative methods to the construction or answer questions that I kind of figured would come up along the way. And of course I invited you to send in your questions in case I missed something.
The two biggest questions that were asked were in regards to the assembly of the side panels and then more of a comment and suggestion vs a question on the method I used for cutting notches in the shelves. I had discussed using different tools to cut the notches and included why I preferred not to use the tablesaw on this build to do it. I may have misspoke a little when discussing the tablesaw, but hopefully when you watch today you'll understand what I was trying to get at.
If you have further questions about the build or about something you've seen previously, don't hesitate to EMAIL ME.
I can't remember the last time I did any kind of shop tour in my current basement workshop, so after much prodding by a few of you (especially you John!!!) I decided it was time to invite all of you down for a look around.
Really there's not a lot to look at that you haven't already seen, but I figured while you're all here I might as well explain a little bit about where and what I have in the shop. Coincidentally timed with this tour (completely unplanned I swear!) is the introduction of a new piece of equipment in my shop.
Thanks to the folks at Highland Woodworking and their sponsorship of the show we have a brand new Steel City 8" Jointer.
So without further delay, let's get this tour moving along!
It's been a long time in the making and that has nothing to do with the kit itself! My Brese J-Style Small Smoother has finally been completed and is making the most amazing shavings a plane has ever taken in the basement workshop.
For those of you who've heard me talk about this project on Wood Talk Online Radio you know it's been an ongoing laugh each and everytime it's been discussed. Well the laughing is over and the tears of joy are streaking my face. With the completion of the small smoother I finally have a plane I can say I crafted myself and it's made to be unlike any other out there.
If you're not familiar with Ron Brese and his amazingly beautiful hand planes you really need to take a look for yourself. They're not just gorgeous to look at, but the feeling you have when you pick one up and take a few passes with them is mind blowing. They're a really work of art and they have the capability to elevate your planing to a new level. Don't just take my word for it, ask anyone who's had the pleasure of trying them out.
Of course I'm not going to lie and pretend this kind of beauty doesn't have its cost. Ron makes each plane himself and doesn't rush the construction. He makes them to exacting tolerances with the end result being tiny, wispy shavings more reminiscent of soft billowy clouds than thin see through shavings. And that's not just on any old wood, we're talking those kind of results on some of the nasty, trickiest grains out there.
Again, don't take my word for it. Ron often travels around the country with the Lie-Nielsen Toolworks Hand Tool Event. Stop by his booth and manhandle a plane for yourself. Maybe you could bring a sample of that board you've had trouble with before and see if he'll let you try one of the planes on it?
So without further delay, let's get on with today's show! This is part 1 of a 2 part episode covering the construction process in making the J-Style Small Smoother. We'll see how you shape the wood and prep it for placement in the body. Then next week we'll finish the whole process. It's so easy, you'll be asking me why it took so long for me to get my butt moving in the first place?
To learn more about Ron Brese or any of these amazing planes pictured above, visit his website at www.breseplane.com. Tell him Matt sent you!
editor's note: Ron no longer offers handplane kits, a bummer for sure!
In this episode we'll wrap up the final assembly of this amazing little smoother plane and I'll explain the right way to do it, while also explaining WHAT I ended up doing instead.
Of course luckily in the end it all came together and works just as well and amazingly as I had hoped and dreamed it would!
If you're not familiar with Ron Brese and his amazingly beautiful hand planes you really need to take a look for yourself. They're not just gorgeous to look at, but the feeling you have when you pick one up and take a few passes with them is mind blowing. They're a really work of art and they have the capability to elevate your planing to a new level. Don't just take my word for it, ask anyone who's had the pleasure of trying them out.
Of course I'm not going to lie and pretend this kind of beauty doesn't have its cost. Ron makes each plane himself and doesn't rush the construction. He makes them to exacting tolerances with the end result being tiny, wispy shavings more reminiscent of soft billowy clouds than thin see through shavings. And that's not just on any old wood, we're talking those kind of results on some of the nasty, trickiest grains out there.
Again, don't take my word for it. Ron often travels around the country with the Lie-Nielsen Toolworks Hand Tool Event. Stop by his booth and manhandle a plane for yourself. Maybe you could bring a sample of that board you've had trouble with before and see if he'll let you try one of the planes on it?
To learn more about Ron Brese or any of these amazing planes pictured above, visit his website at www.breseplane.com. Tell him Matt sent you!
It's official! Five years of Matt's Basement Workshop Podcast and it's still going strong. I've talked before about the beginnings of the show so there's no need to re-hash it again...but you're welcome to ask me about it any time!
In today's episode we have a bit of catching up to do from the long holiday hiatus. One of the big things I wanted to share is news that I FINALLY completed the migration of ALL the archived episodes. We now have everything from EPISODE ONE up to this post on one unified website. This has been a long time coming and WAY OVER DUE. So take a look around and find your favorite old episode or discover one you might have missed.
Also in today's episode is a look at something many of you have asked me about in the past, "What's a typical day in your life?" So rather than just talking about it, we had a crew document a day in the life of the host of Matt's Basement Workshop. Hopefully it'll answer all those questions you've had in the past.
Coming up next week, the first of a multi-part series on the construction of our friend's Walnut Buffet. A great project that was both fun and challenging for me. So make sure you come back to see it go from raw materials to finished project.
It's time to get back to some serious content...or at least as close as I'll come to it. Today we start the construction of the Walnut Buffet.
This is part 1 of a multi-part series and it begins with the rough construction of the buffet's body. The majority of components for this project were constructed from a premium walnut plywood with its edges wrapped by solid walnut stock.
The beauty of working with a premium plywood of any species is how well it cuts, how well it can be machined (including holding mechanical fasteners) and especially how well it can stand up to sanding, scraping and finishing.
Just to help demonstrate the differences between premium plywood and "not-so" premium, I'll test the thickness of the veneers with a nicely sharpened card scraper to see how long it takes to get through the face layer. Can you guess how many scrapes it takes to get the center core of a "not-so" premium piece of plywood Mr. Owl?
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In the second part of the construction of our friend's Walnut Buffet we've completed the construction of the carcass that makes up the majority of the project. From this point forward it's now a matter of adding pieces of the structural details. The dividers between the doors and drawers, the boxes for the drawers, the drawer fronts and the doors themselves.
But before we get into all of those components, I want to add the solid walnut pieces that cover the exposed plys of our premium walnut plywood. Because the design requires the face frames to be the same thickness as the plywood itself, I had a couple of different options for how I was going to attach it. I already decided I wanted solid walnut vs a simple edge veneer. But I wanted to make sure it was securely fastened other than simply glued flat face to plywood edge.
I thought about either biscuit joinery or even reinforcing with brads. Both didn't seem very appealing, so I did a little more research. What I came up with was to use an edge banding bit system that created matching profiles in both the plywood edges and the solid walnut face.
The folks over at Eagle America were really great to let me try out this system for this project and I'd highly recommend it to anyone who wanted something that did more than simply dress up an exposed edge. Because of the way the solid stock is interlocked with the sheet good, it offers an added rigidity that I'm not convinced a simple face glued strip would be able to provide.
There is a small learning process to get started, but as I demonstrate in today's episode once you do a few test cuts and even create reference blocks, setup and use is a breeze. And the results speak for themselves.
Thank you Eagle America!
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In today's episode we start construction of the doors. But before we can really get into it, I need to cut and install the horizontal dividers between the drawers and doors. For this part of the project I chose pocket hole joinery. For me, it was a perfect joinery technique for a piece that was less structural and more design.
Speaking of pocket hole joinery, in the second half of today's show I wanted to share with you some information about getting the best results from pocket hole joinery - especially since so many of you seem to be a little apprehensive about using it. While setup of a pocket hole jig is important, choosing the correct screws for use in those pocket holes is even more vital. Here's a great Kreg Screw Kit available at Highland Woodworking
I found some great information at Kreg Tool's website. Obviously they sell their own screws, but even the after-market versions have characteristics listed in today's show that will give you excellent results. Thanks to Kreg Tool for the great information and all the images.
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Today we're installing the doors on the Walnut Buffet. The design requires inset doors, which can be very tricky to get placed correctly for an uniform reveal on all four edges. Thankfully I chose European style hinges for the hardware. The benefit of these style hinges vs a traditional pin version is the built in adjusters which make achieving an uniform revel as easy as turning a screw or two.
But before we get to the hinge installation we need to trim and adjust the solid wood wraps on the walnut plywood to fit in the door openings. The fastest way to do this I've found is using my block or smoothing plane. In fact we'll take a closer look at doing just that in the second half of the show.
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We're nearing the end of the Walnut Buffet build. Just a couple more episodes and we're done. If you have any questions so far about some aspect of the construction, drop me a line EMAIL YOUR QUESTION or leave a comment in today's shownotes.
Today I'm showing you how I constructed the drawer boxes for the two large drawers. Drawer box construction is really simple. At the heart of it, it's nothing more than assembling an open topped box that slides into an opening. The big question on my mind when I'm building drawers for any project are how will they slide in and out of the opening and what joinery am I using to assemble the drawer sides to the front and back?
The first joint most woodworkers will answer with - dovetails. But is it the only joint you can use? What if you don't know how, or you're just not fond of them? Let's discuss some common joinery techniques that not only look good but are just as strong as the dovetail. That's what's coming up in the second half of the show today.
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We're almost done with the construction of the Walnut Buffet, only a couple more episodes and this series will be wrapped up. If you have any questions about what I've covered so far make sure to send me an EMAIL or leave a comment in the shownotes. I'm planning on doing a followup show to answer any you have.
In today's episode we're building the base for the buffet. It was a simple construction, 3 pieces in all. One long span down 2/3rds the length of the bottom and butted at either end by two feet that were approximately 2/3rds the depth. I attached the pieces with screws and glue, but after assembling it I was a little worried it may be pulled apart during regular use. So I decided to reinforce the end grains with dowels. How'd I do that? Checkout the episode to find out.
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On today's show we're wrapping up the walnut buffet build. Really there's not much more to discuss other than the finishing process, and how and why I chose to roll my nicely laid out mitered edges on the top (here's a hint, sharp edges won't just bite you when you bump into them. They also like to break off too).
And then there was that whole moment where the buffet fell 3 feet off the sawhorses and came smashing down onto the workshop's concrete floor. What, you didn't hear about that? With all the crying and gnashing of teeth I don't know how you could've missed it.
Well regardless of whether you knew about it or not, I'm going to show the life-saving technique Kari Hultman demonstrated for the Popular Woodworking Magazine Tricks of the Trade column that kept me from going over the edge. After you watch me do it in the second half of today's show, check out Kari's version by visiting the video HERE.
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Maybe I'm getting a little kit crazy, but I've built my second hand plane from a kit and I'm loving it. In today's episode I'm showing off my new Hock Shoulder Plane that I built a few weeks ago.
It's a great way to spend some time in the shop and have something you'll use over and over on a variety of projects. And on top of it, it wasn't very difficult. The instructions are easy to follow and everything you need to complete it (except the glue) is included. It's a great project for woodworkers of all experience levels.
Available at Highland Woodworking or through Hock Tools directly.
Other kits and items mentioned in today's show:
Hock Krenov Style Handplane Kit
Wood Planes and How to Make Them
Veritas Wooden Spokeshave Hardware Kit
Wenzloff and Sons Sawkits
Brese Plane Kits (no longer available)
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Today we're starting a new build series on the show. Over the next couple of weeks we'll be covering the construction of an entire wall or two of book shelves. This is a repeat client for me and I'm more than happy to fill their house with more of my projects.
In fact, the shelves I'm building are a continuation of existing shelves I built for them several years ago. So I'm very familiar with the design already, which if you had to put a label on it, would probably be considered modern with it's straight lines and complete lack of mouldings and ornamentation of any kind.
It seems recently we've been working with a lot of plywood in our projects here and the fact is, we have. Plywood is a great material for a wide variety of builds because of a number of reasons. The obvious being it's easier to cut a sheet of plywood to a wider dimension like 11" or 12" than it can be to glue up a couple of solid boards, plane them flat and even with each other, and then cut them to their final dimensions.
Now don't take that as being lazy, it's just a simple fact. Still, I've been known to do just that with solid boards for a given project and I still think plywood goes a little quicker. Of course one downside to plywood is it's edges and depending on the manufacturer the face veneers themselves. But that's a topic for an earlier show!
**LINKS FOR ITEMS MENTIONED IN TODAY'S EPISODE:
The Sagulator
Milescraft Saw Guide for Circular and Jig Saws
Bora Saw Guide
Bora Wide Track 100" Clamp**.
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In today's episode we continue the construction of the "Walls of shelves" for my client by routing the dadoes for the fixed shelves and then ripping the sides to size.
Also we'll cut the fixed shelves and create the blind rabbet joint that not only attaches the top fixed shelf to the sides, but will help to add some rigidity and strength to it.
Once this is all done, we're about halfway through the construction phase and we can begin to move into the assembly of the shelves next week.
In the second half of today's show I want to discuss a little bit about understanding the basics of the plywood grading system. Other than exterior vs interior plywoods, the biggest concern is understanding how the grading system can tell you which pieces are best for fine woodworking and which ones are more utilitarian.
In the episode I mention a great article at WOOD Magazine's Website which is a nice basic look at understanding the grading system and what you can expect from the various grades of plywood. CLICK HERE TO VISIT.
Items mentioned in today's episode you may want to add to your shop:
**Magswitch
Plywood Router Bits
Kreg Tools
Kreg Precision Router Table Set Up Bars
Quick Clamps**
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So far in the "Walls of Shelves" series you've seen me working on some rather straight forward, basic shelving units. Along with these regular pieces, the client had asked if I could build a corner shelving unit for them also. The corner piece isn't all that different from the other units except for the curved shelves.
In today's episode I'll demonstrate how I cut those curved shelves using a tablesaw and a jigsaw, and then in the second half of the episode I'll share with you some optional tools we can use to make the same cuts.
If after watching the show you have an alternate method I didn't mention I'd love to hear about it, leave a comment below or drop me a line by CLICKING HERE.
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It's the final episode in the "Walls of Shelves" series. In today's episode I'm applying a veneer edge banding to the exposed edges of the shelving units and ALL the shelves that go with them.
Unlike in previous builds where I've opted to use solid edge banding, this time I'm turning to the pre-glued version. I've always been skeptical, to some degree, about how reliable it can be. But once the heat re-activated the glue, all my skepticism went out the window. It not only holds better than I anticipated, it set up faster than I thought it would. So there was a bit of a learning curve to getting it in place without a lot of swearing.
My other big concern with edge banding veneer was whether it would look fake and obviously applied. But just like with any wood joint, solid or not, it's a matter of leveling and sanding for a perfect mating surface. In fact, hopefully in the second half I'll be able to adequately show you what I mean.
If after watching the show you have an alternate method to anything we've discussed in the entire build series I'd love to hear about it, leave a comment below or drop me a line by CLICKING HERE.
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Summer might as well be officially over. The kids are back in school, the warmest days are now almost equal to the coldest nights from just a month ago and I'm heading back into the shop with the video camera to start building more great stuff to share with all of you.
Yes, I'd say Summer is about ready to be tucked away under a pile of dead leaves very shortly. So that means it's time to start posting some of this content I've been filming.
To get these new episodes started on a solid footing I'm posting my recent build of Benchcrafted's Moxon Vise Kit. If you're not familiar with Benchcrafted already, you might want to take a few moments to visit their website and checkout their amazing bench hardware and plans.
Jameel and the guys don't mess around with quality, they have one set of standards...GOLD. I've never read a review or commentary that didn't involve their hardware being praised in the highest way. So when I had a chance to try one of their Moxon Vise Kits I jumped at the opportunity. AND MAN WAS I NOT DISAPPOINTED!!!
At this point I could go on about the quality of their craftsmanship and the details of the instructions, but I won't even begin to scratch the surface of how impressed I am with it. You'll just have to watch and see for yourself.
For more information on any of the Benchcrafted products visit www.benchcrafted.com. Tell them Matt sent you, hopefully they won't blacklist your email LOL!
And one more thing; for the sake of transparency, I received this kit from Benchcrafted in exchange for advertising. BUT, I would've heaped the same praise on them regardless!
http://youtu.be/WxBuOA1IrP4
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The holiday season is practically knocking on our doors and it's the perfect time to start thinking of projects for loved ones and friends. Who doesn't love receiving a gift you know was made with their own two hands? I know my family does, and up until this year they've been sadly disappointed in the past. But not this time around!
Ever since the guys at Bell Forest have become an advertiser on the site I've been haunting THEIR website looking at amazing stock for project ideas.
One thing that caught my eye early on was some of the project kits they had available. These are kits perfect for a weekend build or just for someone looking for an easy to assemble gift without a lot of hassle with designing and planning the construction process.
The Paddle Cutting Board is one of those kits. Sent with everything you need to build; the wood, the template, the directions. All you need to add is time, tools, glue and you. Who could ask for more?
To find out more about the Paddle Cutting Board kit or any of the other great offerings from Bell Forest visit their website at www.bellforestproducts.com You better hurry though, now that the holidays know were talking about them they'll charge right at us instead of sneak up from behind.
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Regardless of how many times I've been to Woodworking in America the one place that gets all my attention, and apparently that of the vast majority of show visiters, is the Marketplace. Where else will you find some of the most unique tool makers in the woodworking world all under one roof?
Not only can you get your hands on these tools, but more importantly you have an unique opportunity to talk with the tool makers themselves. Ever wonder about having customized tools made? Have questions about the design or function of a tool? Or just want to play with some really cool tools? The Woodworking in America marketplace is the perfect place to do all of that and more. It's truly the woodworker's candy store.
But if you've visited this year or in previous years you also know there's more to the marketplace than tools and supplies. There's great freebie demonstrations from the likes of Roy Underhill and Adam Cherubini to name a few. Along with drawings for amazing door-prizes, opportunities to meet with television personalities like Scott Philips and Tommy McDonald. And for the really daring, there's the Hand Tool Olympics. Compete against yourself or a friend or two to see who can have the best results with a basic set of hand tools to create basic joinery and complete typical workshop tasks.
Thanks to the many tool manufacturers and vendors for your time and answering all of my questions. It's much appreciated!
Vendors in today's episode include the following:
**Lee Valley
Hock Tools
Two Cherries
Bow Clamps
Catharine Kennedy
Tools for working wood - Gramercy tools
Elkhead Tools
Microjig**
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This week starts the first of two episodes featuring selected clips from some of the classes I attended at Woodworking in America 2011. There are a lot of great classes to choose from and the lecturers are equally fantastic.
While Woodworking in America is usually billed as a hand tool event, over the years several new topics have been added to round out the experience of attendees. From design and Sketchup to power tools and even Japanese hand tools. Woodworking in America lecturers are covering a wide variety of topics.
In today's episode I've included clips from Graham Blackburn's "Hand planes for joinery", Chuck Bender's "Secret drawers & hidden compartments" & Charles Brock's "The Sculpted Rocker - A study of form and function".
To learn more about each of these lecturers, books, DVDs or possible upcoming classes visit the following link for each:
**Graham Blackburn - www.blackburnbooks.com
Chuck Bender - www.acanthus.com
Charles Brock - www.charlesbrockchairmaker.**
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As promised, today's episode is the second of two episodes featuring selected clips from some of the classes I attended at Woodworking in America 2011. There were a lot of great classes to choose from and the lecturers were equally fantastic.
In today's episode I've included clips from Megan Fitzpatrick's "Your first dovetails", Charles Brock's "Sculpting by hand & power", Chris Schwarz's "12 rules for toolboxes" and Steve Shannesy's "Veneers in contemporary furniture".
To learn more about each of these lecturers, books, DVDs or possible upcoming classes visit the following link for each:
**Steve Shannesy & Megan Fitzpatrick - www.popularwoodworking.com
Chris Schwarz - www.lostartpress.com
Charles Brock - www.charlesbrockchairmaker.**
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I'm late to the game as usual, but in this case, being late is better than never showing up at all. What am I talking about? The Woodworkers Fighting Cancer Charity Build.
If you're not familiar with Woodworkers Fighting Cancer it's a charity started by our good friend Marc Spagnuolo - The Wood Whisperer to help raise funds and awareness about research to fight a disease that has probably touched each and everyone of us at some time in our lives.
The most recent fund raiser involves individuals building a Rocking Horse from free downloadable plans available through WOOD Magazine. The project was one that could be accomplished with a minimal number of tools and wasn't so much a challenge that even brand new woodworkers would feel comfortable tackling it.
The build was a lot of fun and I learned a few things along the way...especially an important lesson about spray adhesives and my disdain for jigsaws. But you'll hear and see more about that in the video.
For more information on Woodworkers Fighting Cancer, including how you can donate directly, visit www.thewoodwhisperer.com/wfc/.
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I mentioned on a recent episode of Wood Talk Online Radio I was building some small boxes for my wife Samantha's photography business -Shuttersam.com.
The boxes are best described as being nothing more than a "Super simple box". No extravagant ornamentation, no exotic species and no complicated joinery. The idea was a plain box that would be given to her clients with a DVD of their images inside, along with maybe a few proofs.
I have no delusions that these boxes will be passed down from generation to generation, but in fact expect them to be set aside on a shelf somewhere or maybe even re-purposed for some other task. So the design for the box was that it wouldn't take long to build, be inexpensive and just be functional.
The first few took me a little while to get the building process tweaked. But after having built about a dozen or more so far, it now only takes a couple of hours to batch out up to 6 at a time. In fact the bottleneck now is waiting for the glue to dry.
I'm planning to experiment with more box making in the future. So plan to see some various designs and construction processes in the future. But for now, enjoy this super simple box.
Today's show is the first of several episodes covering the construction of a shelving and drawer set. A good friend of the family approached me about building two tall shelving units and two short units with drawers.
All four pieces would stand on top of solid maple bases and the drawer fronts would be solid maple also. These would be left natural with a clear finish while the shelving units and drawer bodies will be painted a glossy white.
The entire project, except the base and drawers themselves, will be made from MDO - medium density overlay. This is my first experience with MDO and as we'll talk about in the final wrap-up episode, it won't be my last.
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In today's second episode of the "Shelves and drawers" build we move on to the drawer construction. Just as we saw with the first episode, large projects can appear complicated but when you take the correct approach they can be completed quickly, easily and more importantly accurately.
By ganging similar cuts for each component, you can take advantage of a single setup on your tool to eliminate unnecessary steps. Not to mention it also eliminates the possibility of making miscuts too.
http://youtu.be/bk8Vj8ZLR6I
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In part three of the "Shelves and drawers" build we tackle the construction of the solid maple bases. All four pieces stand on the same style of base, so except for the lengths of the support beams between the tall shelving units and the short drawer units, we can once again gang up and make similar cuts and actions all at once.
And even though the bases will, for the most part be hidden out of sight, that's no reason to not take a few minutes to design something that looks nice. You never know when someone will take a look!
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It's a new year, but we have a little work to finish up from the previous year. As promised, today's episode is the wrap up to our "Shelves and drawers" series.
In part four we complete the "Shelves and drawers" by building the drawer fronts from solid maple, attaching the bases to each of the units and then adding all the final touches from painting to hardware.
A lot of you had questions about using MDO; its workability, paintability, cost and more. Rather than addressing each of your questions as they come in, I tried to include all of them in the video. Hopefully I answer yours, but if not, don't hesitate to contact me.
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Today's episode is the first of a series answering many of the questions and topic suggestions you the audience have sent me over the last 6 years. I frequently get questions regarding choosing tools, stock, projects and great feedback on things we've already covered.
Unfortunately I haven't had a chance, all that often, to take these questions and turn them into the great content they'd make. So while I'm currently finishing up a couple of project builds, I thought we'd do start tackling the list of audience inspired episodes.
In today's show, a listener asked about choosing a shoulder plane. He asked specifically about two models, the Stanley No.92 and the Ron Hock Shoulder plane kit. While I prefer not to make specific recommendations on which tool to purchase, I do have an opinion on the features that make a good one and things to consider when thinking of purchasing.
I'd love your feedback on today's episode and your suggestion for this listener and also the many others who have asked very similar questions about shoulder planes also. Leave a comment in today's shownotes or drop us a line mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com.
And if anyone noticed the video seems a little off, I've been experimenting with using my iPhone as a video camera...it still needs a little tweaking, but not too bad.
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Back in episode 470 I shared with you the construction of a "super simple" wooden box I've been making for my wife's photography business Shutter Sam Photography.
I mentioned in the episode that since filming the original footage I had started to streamline the construction process. Just like with any project where you find yourself repeating the build over and over (think cutting boards, jewelry boxes, pens, etc.) you discover little shortcuts that can help to cut the production time down, but not affect the quality of the results.
As I've mentioned before, I really appreciate tips and suggestions from you the audience. And once again, you've come through for me with a great tip that I'm using from this point out when building the boxes. Don (no last name in the email) suggested I checkout an article over at Fine Woodworking Magazine it's titled 2 Fast Ways to Build a Box and was written by Bill Nyberg.
On page one of the downloadable PDF (it does require a membership to the digital media) Bill lays out a quick and easy two cut step that creates the lips of the two sides. Essentially the same thing I've been creating, but with my method I was spending way too much time setting it up. This new method cuts my setup time in HALF. Checkout today's show to see what I'm talking about.
Just to let you know, I don't cover Bill's entire article, just this one little part that has made a huge difference in how I'll be cutting parts for more of these boxes and maybe even other projects down the road.
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This week we return again to the stack of listener suggested topics and questions that have come in over the years. After bringing the 14" Steel City band saw into the basement workshop, many of you had questions specifically about the riser block I installed.
The obvious benefits of a riser block to a 14" bandsaw is the increase in height. Normally the maximum resaw height on a saw this size is about 6" at most. By adding a riser block system you increase that significantly. What does that mean? It means all those wide boards you'd love to bookmatch for stunning panels are now possible, it means you can resaw your own veneers from WHICHEVER species of wood you want, it means all sorts of options.
But with a variety of options available that also means there's some limitations too. While not necessarily significant anytime you alter a machine from it's original configuration, regardless of whether you use original manufacturer's kits, you're still going to run into hiccups that may require the machine to need a little more tweaking before using.
I'd love your feedback on today's episode and your suggestion leave a comment in today's shownotes or drop us a line mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com.
And if anyone noticed the video seems a little off, I've been experimenting with using my iPhone as a video camera...it still needs a little tweaking, but not too bad.
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Today we start a new build project. We’ve (and by “we” I mean my wife) been in need of a full-length mirror in our bedroom for quite a longtime now.
We (this time I mean “us”) finally purchased one not to long ago and I intended to hang it behind the door in our bedroom. Even though it’s beveled on the edges it just looked to plain, so we were trying to decide if it should be hidden away in a closet?
It didn’t take very long to think about it, but what we really needed was a nice frame to set it in and mount in position. So I headed to the basement and decided it was time to break into my stash of aged cherry.
Now that we have the backstory of today’s project, let’s get started building it. This is a two part build video, starting with the basics of ripping and crosscutting the stock to its dimensions and then moving into “handcut” mortise and tenon joinery. Then next week we’ll wrap it all up.
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On today’s show we’ll continue where we left off last week on the construction of the Cherry Mirror frame I recently built for my wife. As I mentioned in the last episode we purchased a full-length mirror for our bedroom and after getting it home I decided it was just a little too plain for our tastes.
Thankfully I’ve been holding on to a stash of Cherry for a while now and this seemed to be the perfect project to break it out for.
Last week we ripped and crosscut the stock to size (I also admitted to messing that up and having to re-draw the plans to accommodate for the mistake), we also cut the mortise and tenon joinery we’ll use to assemble the project.
This week we rabbet an edge on the backside of the frame to support the mirror. That sounds easy, but I chose to use just the tablesaw and I had to create stopped rabbets for the stiles.
Then we chamfer the edges of the rails and stiles, but not end to end, instead we create a nice little stopped chamfer on the router table. We glue it all together and then add some shop made walnut pegs to help reinforce the mortise and tenon joinery.
This was a great little project that could easily be completed in a weekend and leaves you looking like a hero to someone.
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After the last episode of Samantha's mirror frame project many of you wrote me to ask how I installed the mirror in the frame. It was a SLIGHT oversight on my part not to cover the topic, so I'm coming back with a third episode to remedy that mistake.
While we're talking about how I did it, I'll share with you some other potential options for taking care of the same task. My own technique was a little unconventional, so it's important to see a few that are more traditional.
Once we've covered the topic of installing the mirror in the frame, I wanted to address a couple more questions that came in regarding the construction process. A few of you wondered about options for cutting the rabbets using other techniques than the single blade method and a couple of you wanted to know about another way to create the stopped chamfers.
Hopefully we'll answer your questions and concerns in today's show.
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Today's episode is the first in a two (maybe three) part build series featuring the Hock Smoothing Plane Kit from Hock Tools. Previously we had such success building the Hock Shoulder Plane it only seemed like a great idea to come back and build this kit.
Just like before, all the materials for successfully building a completely usable plane were included, all you need to add is glue and some shop time. In less than a weekend you can have a great tool that will quickly become one of your favorites.
In part one, we tackle the assembly process. While it's very straight forward there are a few key tasks that need to be accomplished to ensure the rest of the setup goes as planned. So follow along and see why this kit maybe your entry into the world of hand planes.
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On today's episode we wrap up the construction of the Hock Smoothing Plane Kit from Hock Tools. Last week we assembled the pieces, glued it all up and set it aside to dry in the clamps. Today we start the work to make it a fully functioning hand plane.
I'll walk you through one method of truing the sole to make it flat, which is extremely important for it to work the way it's suppose to. We'll shape the body to a size and feel that not only makes it unique from other planes on my shelf, but feels right in my hands. And then we'll take it for a maiden voyage and discuss a little bit about adjusting the blade of a wooden bodied plane vs the metal bodied versions with mechanical adjusters.
If you've built a Hock Smoothing Plane or something similar, I'd love to hear about it. Send pictures if you have any available, I may even post them so others can see your work.
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Without a doubt, home ownership is probably one of the biggest catalysts to propel people into woodworking. Even if you grew up with a woodworker or took shop classes in school, being a homeowner reignites that spark and grows into a passion for tools and creating projects intended for in and around the home.
Most of the time that spark occurs because once we take ownership of a house, we immediately want to make it our own. Whether it's replacing trimwork, adding crown mouldings, maybe even tackling some repairs to unsightly fixtures or features that would scare off some people. Whatever the task it suddenly means it's time to get some tools and dive headfirst into those projects.
Recently a friend of ours approached me with a problem she's lived with for several years, a broken louver door to a bedroom closet. As soon as she walked in the door with it I had flash backs to when we bought our first house. It was a project I couldn't resist, especially because I knew it was one I would have been intimidated by all those years ago.
On today's episode, join me on a trip down memory lane as we set aside some of our regular woodworking shop projects and tackle a little home repair.
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We're now about halfway through Safety Week 2012 and hopefully you've found that one or two golden nuggets you'll carry with you every time you step in the shop.
Regardless of what it is, the most important thing is to take what you've learned this week and turn it into the kind of habit that becomes second nature. Because it's those kind of habits that one day could be the difference between a close call in the shop or a trip to the Emergency Room...or worse.
Woodworking to me is the kind of past time and lifestyle that is probably best learned by observation and learning from our mistakes. No one makes perfect dovetails the first time out and no one WON'T have a close call or two in the shop over their lifetime.
The real responsibility of every woodworker when it comes to safety is to develop a set of best practices they can count on to greatly minimize the chance of an accident occurring. Because the truth is, there will never be a way to completely eliminate them.
Last year while working on a project for the show, I had one of those accidents that could have been life altering. I made a number of mistakes that in hindsight leave me feeling embarrassed and angry at myself.
On today's episode you'll see footage from this accident. I won't lie, it's graphic so please consider that before you watch. But the big lesson for today will be about what went wrong, what I could've possibly done to prevent it and hopefully you'll learn from my mistake so you don't make one just like it or worse.
As I mentioned in the episode, here's a link to the video at Popular Woodworking Magazine featuring Bob Lang's Trim Router base CLICK HERE. Don't be surprised if it shows up on the show sometime.
Episode available for download in the following formats:
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Following up on the last episode, where I revealed recent changes made to my shop to improve work flow and efficiency...at least in theory...,today's show is a closer look at some of the "accessories" and little shop helpers I've added all around it.
We've all heard the cliche "it's the little things that matter". In this case, it really IS the little things that make all the difference...in how I feel about working at my various tools.
As much as we want to justify buying all kinds of new fangled jigs and shop accessories the one issue we run into eventually is where to put them, and more importantly, how will we find them when we need them the most?
Being organized shouldn't just refer to having a set of well thought out plans to build a project. Being organized should also refer to where and why things are laid out also. I don't know the statistics off hand but I think it's safe to say that many of the shop accidents that occur regularly each year, both big and small, probably have to do with someone not taking the extra time to use a safety accessory simply because it wasn't close at hand.
Surprisingly, it doesn't cost a lot of money to get well organized, nor does it take a lot of time. The accessories I talk about in today's episode took me longer to figure out exactly where to place them than it did to purchase OR put them in their new homes.
You don't have to go as far as building fancy cabinets or caddies (although that could be fun) when you decide "now I'm ready to be organized", being organized is a state of mind and a way of life. The payoff at the end of the day will make a huge difference in how we work in the shop.
Of course the second half of being organized is remembering to put things back in their place...but that's for another episode!
**Featured items in today's show:
Magswitch and accessories
Bench Dog Feather-Loc Featherboard with Bar
Bench Dog Push Bloc Push Stick
Tormek Rotational Base
Micro-Jig Grrripper
Fast Mount Shelving System
All of these are also available at Amazon.com too!**
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At the heart of my workshop's redo is the massive Bench Dog Router Table system I reviewed with ToolSelect.com - see the review HERE. Compared to previous router tables in my shop, this version is a beast! Of course it's not really a fair comparison, given its predecessors were all bench top models, but that's beside the point.
The Bench Dog ProMax RT router table system provides woodworkers with a number of great options for customizing their own version. The system in my shop is a cast-iron top on an enclosed cabinet, but it could easily be a phenolic top instead. Or I could choose to have either one of those tops on an open stand.
For me, what really makes this new router table system so invaluable in my shop IS the cabinet. The enclosed cabinet has enough storage space built into it that it's become my all-in-one router center.
All my router bits, router accessories and even my routers can be stored in it and there's still room for more. What it takes up in floor space, it makes up for with overall storage space…I actually have some empty shelves…I wonder what I can put on those?
The beauty of the system is the fact it has options! And speaking of options, one that will be making a dramatic change in my operations at the router table is the addition of a router lift. In the realm of router table upgrades this one is like going from a bicycle to a jet plane! See my review of it on ToolSelect.com HERE.
Everyone who's used a router table knows the frustration there can be when dialing in just the right height between cuts. Having a router lift allows you to raise or lower your router from the top of the table where you can easily see what's happening versus the old method of reaching underneath and often blindly making the adjustments. How many times have you done this only to realize the bit is much higher or lower than you wanted?
Router lifts are pricey, and to be honest I always had one on my list but I never considered it a necessity as far as I was concerned. But after using this one just for some test cuts and demonstration purposes, I wouldn't hesitate recommending it get bumped up to the top of the list for anyone who uses their router table frequently. The accuracy and ease of adjustability it provides will dramatically help with router operations in my shop.
And then there's the fence system. Regardless of which table top, base or whether you choose to go with a router lift or traditional insert plate, if you don't have a good fence system it won't matter. The Bench Dog Fence system is worth the money!
Links for items mentioned in today's show:
**Bench Dog 40-300 ProMax RT
Bench Dog Tools 40-150 ProLift
Bench Dog Featherboards
Kreg PRS3090 3" Dual Locking Caster-Set**
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Over the years, I've done my fair share of experimenting with sharpening. From the early days of sandpaper on glass to waterstones and now on to my Tormek, I had one goal in mind...to create the scariest sharpest edge anyone could ever imagine!!!
I won't claim to have achieved that dream yet, but I've managed to create edges that were sharp enough to draw blood with very little effort, usually also at the worst possible moments too.
In today's episode I'll show you some of the tools and equipment I've used over the years to accomplish this goal. It's not an episode on HOW TO SHARPEN but instead an episode on options for WHAT TO SHARPEN WITH.
From sandpaper to power sharpening and a few in between, I'll show you what I've tried in the past, what I'm using now and a little bit of why on each method. Just like our woodworking, sharpening methods are a personal thing, there's nothing wrong with experimenting until you find that one technique that's right for you.
**Tools mentioned in today's episode:
Tormek Sharpener & Accessories
Veritas MK II Honing Jig
Waterstones
Shapton glass stones
Abrasive grit powders
DMT Diamond Plates
Granite surface plates**
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I've been doing a lot of resawing lately in my workshop. Not for the purpose of making my own veneers instead it's all about milling thin stock for the boxes I'm making for my wife's photography clients (shameless plug...www.shuttersam.com).
Resawing thick stock into thinner pieces is a great way to save materials and money too! As a beginning woodworker my assumption was that thin stock, anything thinner than 3/4", was a rare item and either you settled for the warped and over-priced stuff at the home center or you repeatedly ran the stock through a thickness planer until it was the dimension you desired. Then one day the light bulb went off (actually I read an article) and I discovered resawing.
In today's episode, I'll share with you a few options I've experimented with when it comes to resawing. I've tried it on the tablesaw and I've had some success with a handsaw, but my preferred way is on the bandsaw. And even that has changed slightly over the past year. Regardless of which route you choose for whatever reason; limited tools, experience or self-loathing, learning to resaw can open a whole new set of options for you in the shop and with your projects.
**Items mentioned in today's show:
Kreg Precision Bandsaw Fence - Woodcraft.com or Highland Woodworking
Kreg Resaw Guide - Woodcraft.com or Highland Woodworking
Magswitch Resaw Guide - Woodcraft.com
Wood Slicer Resaw Band Saw Blade - Highland Woodworking
BANDSAWBLADESDIRECT.COM**
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As table saws go, I've had an opportunity over the years to use one from each of the three body types; benchtop, contractor and cabinet. While they're all tablesaws and do the same job, the specifications of each are very different. Where benchtop and contractor saws are portable in their own ways, the cabinet saw is one you probably won't be throwing in the back of a trailer or truck and hauling around from site to site. In fact, the cabinet saw is a beast of a saw and is designed with the serious hobbyist and professional woodworker in mind. I've been using my granite topped Steel City cabinet saw for a couple of years now and have been loving the features and specifications that came with it. But just recently, an opportunity came up to try another make and model of cabinet saw that has some upgraded features and specifications I didn't think we're all that important at first, but now that its here I can't wait to test them out and share the results with all of you. In today's episode I'm introducing my brand new SawStop PCS175-TGP236 1.75HP 10" Professional Cabinet Saw. In the interest of complete transparency, the opportunity to try out this model of saw and all the accessories and upgrades that accompany it was in exchange for a sponsorship and advertising deal on my website and in the show. I'm under no obligation what-so-ever to gloss over any warts I may think the saw has as I use it over time. As of the time that I'm posting this episode, I haven't had an opportunity to put the saw through it's paces yet. But that should be remedied very shortly as we get ready to start a series of projects that will have plenty of cuts being made on the saw. Then in about 6 months, I'll come back and give it as thorough a review of what I've experienced with the saw as I possibly can. I don't expect all of you to be as excited about this opportunity as I am, and I imagine some of you will express your opinions about it with me rather loudly. But I'm interested in hearing what your concerns are regarding the specifications when compared to other manufacturers and maybe even some of the myths you've heard too. So without further delay..."Hello New Saw!" Help support the show - please visit our advertisers
ENOUGH TALK ABOUT THE NEW SAW, LET'S BUILD SOMETHING WITH IT!!! I'd love to tell you it would be something über cool, ultra modern and hip...but then it wouldn't be on this show if it were. Instead, the first project on the new saw is something FOR THE NEW SAW; it's a very basic, no frills crosscut sled. [caption id="attachment_6965" align="aligncenter" width="300"] Basic Table Saw Sled[/caption] The entire sled is built from scraps and cutoffs laying around the shop, the only thing I didn't make myself was the Micro Jig ZeroPlay Guide Bars. I maybe doing this on the cheap, and can easily just toss it on the burn pile and start all over, but why worry about loose miter bar guides when I can spend the money on these reusable and adjustable manufactured ones that take all the worry our for me? (In full disclosure, when we gave away a few pairs of these over the summer, I snagged myself a set from the pile...don't worry...Micro Jig already knows) If you follow the show on either Facebook or Google+ I mentioned getting ready to build one and asked what the ones look like that you've built. A number of you responded with some really interesting ideas, both simple and WAY tweaked out. I'd love to see and hear more of your creations, please send them in and I'll put together a gallery on the website to share with everyone. Email them to mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com. Items mentioned in today's show:Micro Jig ZeroPlay Guide Bars Help support the show - please visit our advertisers
On today's show I'm walking you through the steps of building a very basic, utilitarian shoe organizer. And I'll admit it, I obviously didn't pay close enough attention to the warning signs when things started to go bad! It started out great. The components were milled in near record time, even with just having 30 minutes here and there during the week. I just never thought I'd be the victim of a glue-up catastrophe on this project! But even if the glue-up had gone perfect, this is the kind of project that gets tucked away in a closet or in the backroom where it gets used more than it gets seen. Which isn't a bad thing! Sometimes we don't want our projects just admired from a far, WE WANT THEM USED. This project was also just the kind of thing that let us take the new SawStop table saw out for a spin to see what we think about it. So far? It's a really nice table saw! And in the show today I even take a moment to demonstrate how easy it is to swap out the brake cartridge when switching from a regular 10" blade, to a 8" stacked dado set. The construction of the shoe organizer included a few joinery techniques; mitered corners, thru dadoes and even the use of dowels. In hindsight, it was a glue-up nightmare, but when tackled with a little strategy (apparently better than the one I used) it's possible to get the job done correctly.
I'm sure you've heard the trope "The cobbler's children have no shoes"? Well the same thing in the Vanderlist household can be said about furniture. Around here it feels like I'm always making something for someone else's house (or more than likely for my shop). For a long time now my wife Samantha has been asking me to build us a matching set of bedside tables. I keep asking if she wouldn't prefer something bigger and more awe striking like a new dining room table. But while that would be nice, a bedside table that actually has room to set a book AND a lamp seemed to be a higher priority. So, starting on today's episode I'm finally building those bedside tables for her. The design is simple. Straight lines, no embellishments and something with a drawer and a shelf. Samantha also asked that they be painted too. That's fine with me, I have a decent stash of Poplar that's been waiting to be used for quite a while now. I'll get us started by roughing out the stock that will be the 20"x18" tops and the 16"x16" shelfs. These dimensions are a little too big for my jointer and thickness planer, so it's a great excuse to break out the hand planes and flatten them by hand.
Welcome back to part 2 of the Bedside Table Build. We again have some wide panels that will make up the sides of the tables and they need to be milled and glued up. But rather than tackling the task by “going ALL hand plane” on the wide boards like last week I decided to mix it up a little and use both hand planes AND power tools. In other words, living up to my claim to be a “hybrid woodworker”. The task is a pretty simple one. It’s a matter of knocking down the high spots of the concave side of the board with my Jack plane until it lays flat and doesn’t rock. Then it’s over to the thickness planer to do the rest of the work. Typically it takes more time to run it through the thickness planer than to knock down those high spots, but of course the board I chose for the video was the only one of the 8 pieces that decided to be difficult and took much longer than the others. The other tasks we complete in this episode are gluing up these wide panels, including a quick touch up of the edges with my Edge Trimming Plane and then prepping the stock that will become the legs for each table. In the next episode, we’ll start working on the joinery and begin to assemble the entire project from that point forward. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers
At this point in the project I've milled all the components I need to get things started for the joinery work, so it's time to move on. The first joinery task to tackle is cutting dovetails for joining the top front and back rails to the legs.
But before moving on to the dovetailed ends of the rails, I need to cut them to length and then define the shoulders of the dovetails. This is a simple task, but when you're not paying close enough attention to your setup things can go wrong, as you'll see in today's video.
As for the dovetails themselves - because they're not thru dovetails, and instead half-blind dovetails, removing waste material can be a little tricky. Rather than sticking to my usual technique that involves using a dovetail saw and a chisel or two, for some reason I decided to try something different.
I'm a huge advocate of "trying something different" every now and then, but this time I should've stuck to my tried and true method. In the end the result was good, the joint is solid, but the route I took to get there was a little too windy.
Plan on seeing a special excerpt video coming later this week where I demonstrate my tried and true technique.
[haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-497BedsideTablesPt3885.mp3" title="MBW497"]
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The last few episodes of the Bedside Table build have been all about milling of components for the project and playing around with joinery techniques. It's time to start the final assembly.
The first step is attaching the dust frames and shelves to the sides. We have a lot of joinery options to get the job done, but in my opinion the one that's right for this particular project isn't a complicated one, it's dowels.
Years ago I bought my first dowel jig and feel in love with the simplicity of the joint. Unfortunately I hated the dowel jig! So eventually I abandoned the technique for something else. Recently though I bought a better jig and have started to use dowels in more of my projects. The result is a happy woodworker!
In the line up of joinery techniques dowels appear to get a little more respect than biscuits or pocket hole joinery but aren't on the same level as mortise and tenon or other "traditional" joinery. Seems a shame considering how strong the joint can be, not to mention their versatility in location.
**Tools used in this episode:
Wide capacity economy dowel jig
Bora Pistol Grip Clamps
24" Veritas Aluminum straight edge
Veritas Dovetail Saw
Wentzloff & Sons Carcass Saw
Benchcrafted Moxon Vise
Bessey Bar Clamps
Kreg K4 Kit
Kreg Micro Jig**
[haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-498BedsideTablesPt4873.mp3" title="MBW498"]
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The holidays have really set me behind schedule on completing this set of bedside tables. Luckily though, I've been promising Samantha I'd build them for a few years now, so she's use to the delayed schedule.
In today's episode I'm concentrating on getting the drawers built. Nothing fancy about these boxes. Rabbeted ends on the sides to attach to the front and back of the boxes. A simple groove for the plywood bottom. And then eventually a false front for the drawer face (a topic I'll discuss in an upcoming episode).
I know many of you will be asking why there's no dovetailed boxes or why I decided to use basic drawer slides vs homemade or a more expensive version. The fact of the matter is simply that the boxes will be closed the majority of the time, and while I love dovetailed joinery, I don't feel the need to use it all the time when there's other options.
Speaking of options, the one point of controversy I'm anticipating from today's video will be surrounding my single blade method of cutting the rabbets. I won't go into details about it here, but I stand by method and will simply state once again; it works, it's safe and if you're not comfortable with it don't do it.
Tools featured in today's episode:
Micro-Jig Grrripper
[haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-499BedsideTablesPt5865.mp3" title="MBW499"]
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The end of the "Bedside Tables Build" is upon us. I've once again been working on them a little longer than I had anticipated, but I have a slew of excuses for that...some actually true too!
In today's episode there's a lot to cover; from assembling the body to assembling the drawers. There's dimensioning and attaching the tops and drawer fronts to a few other things in between. In other words, this is a busy episode!
But in the end, the final result is a couple of matching bedside tables for me and Samantha. Finally something that has plenty of room for our stack of bedside reading (iPads and the occasional magazine), a lamp, and maybe even an alarm clock? Not to mention a drawer for hiding midnight snacks and more!!!
Tools mentioned in today's show:
Knew Concepts Fretsaw
Veritas Low-angle block plane
[haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-500BedsideTablesPt6278.mp3" title="MBW500"]
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Today's episode is the first of a two part series on the construction of a solid Maple table base built for our friend's daughter. The tabletop is a pre-manufactured top with a Maple edge banding, so we won't be covering the construction of it.
In this first part I'll demonstrate creating a template pattern for re-creating the four legs I need and then I'll take the stock from rough to finished.
All four legs are curved and attached at 90º to each other and when designing them, our friend's already had a specific shape in mind, so it was a matter of duplicating it as close as possible.
After a little trial and error, I found a quick and easy to achieve the curves without having to buy expensive drafting devices. I'll talk a little bit about it in the beginning and hopefully you'll find it useful.
[haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-501MapleTableBasePt1768.mp3 " title="MBW501"]
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In today's episode we're wrapping up the two part series on the construction of a Maple table base for a our friend's daughter.
Previously we touched a little on the overall design of the legs and then spent the rest of the episode creating the template to duplicate the legs with our solid Maple stock.
I used the template to not only rough out the legs on the material but I also used it to finesse them on the router table by flush trimming the oversized pieces down to their finished sizes.
In this episode we're picking up where we left off last time and starting to assembly the project into the finished base. The hard part is all done, so this should be straight forward and pretty uncomplicated.
But you know me…I can't let anything be that uncomplicated. In the process of drilling holes for dowels to use in the assembly I make a small mistake that really can't be ignored.
So part of this episode is devoted to how I fixed the mistake and was able to get things back on track to a great ending.
In today's episode we're wrapping up the two part series on the construction of a Maple table base for a our friend's daughter.
Previously we touched a little on the overall design of the legs and then spent the rest of the episode creating the template to duplicate the legs with our solid Maple stock.
I used the template to not only rough out the legs on the material but I also used it to finesse them on the router table by flush trimming the oversized pieces down to their finished sizes.
In this episode we're picking up where we left off last time and starting to assembly the project into the finished base. The hard part is all done, so this should be straight forward and pretty uncomplicated.
But you know me…I can't let anything be that uncomplicated. In the process of drilling holes for dowels to use in the assembly I make a small mistake that really can't be ignored.
So part of this episode is devoted to how I fixed the mistake and was able to get things back on track to a great ending.
[haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-502MapleTableBasePt2357.mp3" title="MBW502"]
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I swear I wasn't waiting until the warm weather was just around the corner before I posted this content, but that's exactly what it looks like!
So many of our fellow woodworkers give up woodworking in the cold months of winter because their shops are located in unheated or under heated locations. Be it a garage, a shed or a large out building like a pole-barn when it's cold out even the most passionate woodworker is thinking more about burning their stock to stay warm versus building with it.
But the biggest concern isn't so much about how to heat the shop as it is on what the long cold winter months do to our lumber and our tools.
Let me start by saying I'm no expert by any means on this topic. My shops have always been in climate controlled locations of my house. But that doesn't mean I'm immune from the cold. And considering there's the occasional project or two that requires me to temporarily move into my under heated garage to complete them, it only makes sense I learn a little something about the environment I work in.
So in today's episode I cover some very basic tips on winter woodworking. Starting with some common sense tips on lumber storage, moving on to ideas to help minimize rust building up on your metal surfaces and even a suggestion or two about cold-weather glue-ups and finishing. Today's episode is as a cold as ice (not really, but it sounded cool in my head).
Tools and resources mentioned in today's episode:
-
Book I vaguely referenced Sandor Nagyszalanczy's "Setting Up Shop: The Practical Guide to Designing and Building Your Dream Shop"
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HTC Large Machine Cover
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Magnetic Tool Cover
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Link to USDA "Storage of Lumber" Handbook
[haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-503WinterWoodworking328.mp3" title="MBW503"]
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You've seen the pictures and some of you have even been asking how I did it? After all, jewelry might be an amazing way to win over the love and affection of your significant other. Or it could simply be a way to wow your friends who still think the only thing you can do in your shop is "claim to be building a piece of furniture" but they can't understand why it takes days, weeks or even months considering the guys on TV do it in 30 minutes or less.
Back around Valentine's Day 2013 I posted a blog entry titled "Fastest way to her heart is with wooden jewelry?" and ever since then I've been down in the shop experimenting with scraps and even buying some exotic stock to try and make new pieces that EVEN I can't believe came from me.
In today's episode I share with you some of the basics to wooden ring making I've discovered over the past few weeks. I'll demonstrate the first technique I tried and the one I'm having a lot of success with currently. It's so simple and you probably already have all the tools on hand.
**Tools mentioned in today's post include:
Auriou #6 rasp
Rikon 70-100 Mini Lathe
Forstner bits
Milwaukee 49-56-0051 1-1/8-Inch Super-Tough Bi-Metal Hole Saw
IRWIN 226340 4-Inch Drill Press Vise**
*UPDATE***
Since recording this video I've been experimenting with a couple more options, which appear to be easier and more successful, for creating these beautiful rings. Keep a look out for follow-up posts and maybe even a follow-up video too?
[haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-504WoodenRings353.mp3" title="MBW504"]
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On today's episode I'm sharing my full review of the 110V, 1.75HP SawStop cabinet saw I received as part of an advertising deal back in October of 2012. As I had mentioned in the previous video "Hello New Saw", I wanted to spend a little time with the saw before I shared my opinions about it. And that's exactly what I do in this episode.
It's been a little over 6 months and I've had a chance to build a few projects with the new saw, this has allowed me to get a "real world" feel for whether a saw like this is worth the investment for a home woodworker or serious hobbyist.
Of course what would a SawStop review be without firing off the braking system? So we do that today too, in fact we do it TWICE just to show off that flesh isn't the only conductive material that could set off the system.
**Interested in purchasing a SawStop or SawStop Accessories for your woodshop? You can find them at the following locations:
Highland Woodworking
Woodcraft.com
Amazon.com**
[haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-505SawStopMeTheFullReview291.mp3" title="MBW505"]
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Thanks to a generous donation of some amazingly beautiful Teak boards from a friend of the show, I have an opportunity to work with an species of wood I probably would ordinarily not use.
It's not that I don't want to use different species, I just have a few that I'm readily familiar with and just haven't had a reason to step out of my comfort zone before.
So the first thing I'm building with these gorgeous boards is a...shoe rack!
**Tools featured in today's show:
JET Benchtop Oscillating Spindle Sander with Spindle Assortment, 110-Volt 1 Phase
SawStop Cabinet Table Saw
Steel City Tool Works 14-Inch Band Saw
Wood Slicer Resaw Bandsaw Blade
Bora Pistol Grip Clamps
Micro Jig ZeroPlay Guide Bar System**
[haiku url="https://archive.org/download/506TeakShoeRackPt1/506%20Teak%20Shoe%20Rack%20Pt%201.mp3" title="MBW506"]
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In part 1 of the Teak shoe rack build I milled this amazing Teak stock my friend Jim sent. In today's episode it's time to wrap up the milling process by taking the components over to the router table and profiling the edges on all the pieces followed by prepping them for the mechanical fasteners.
The final result is an amazing project that my family will put their shoes all over, soaking wet and nasty. But since it's made from Teak I'm not worried about it all.
**Tools featured in today's show:
Fisch Drillbit/Countersink Set
Bench Dog 40-300 ProMax RT Complete
SawStop Cabinet Table Saw
Steel City Tool Works 14-Inch Band Saw
Wood Slicer Resaw Bandsaw Blade
Bora Pistol Grip Clamps
Micro Jig ZeroPlay Guide Bar System**
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AHHHH SUMMER!!! The time of year that I find it's hardest to get myself into the shop to work on projects, but yet I can't fight the need to be in there. So to help ease my burden of guilt I like to do smaller projects that are easily accomplished at night or for a few hours on a weekend.
Today's project is exactly the kind of "small project" I'm talking about. Plus another great thing about it is the fact I'm using up some of my smaller stock and scraps that ordinarily become firestarter for our summer bonfires in the backyard.
Completely based on the dimensions of a typical cardboard six-pack, the six openings are the perfect fit for standard 12oz glass "beverage" bottles. The bottles fit perfectly in the openings and are very stable when you're carrying them from one location to another (not to mention, depending on what stock you make it from, you'll look pretty darn cool too!)
And unlike the standard cardboard six-pack, the handle is much friendlier on the fingers and you could easily adjust it so it rises up further from the bottles for EVEN more comfort.
Today's episode is the first of two parts. We'll cover a little bit of the milling and dimensioning of the stock along with much of the straight forward joinery I used to make assembly easy and strong.
Tools featured in today's episode:
Veritas Small Router Plane
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It's time to wrap up the construction of the wooden drink carrier (six-pack) so we can all get back out in the sun and enjoy the rest of our summer (or for our friends in the southern hemisphere…prepare for the summer).
Today's episode we pickup at the bandsaw where we'll shape the middle divider and then continue from there to create some finger holes for easier carrying and then on to final assembly.
There's also a little discussion about materials for building your own and possibly some dimensions for carrying larger bottles than the standard 2.5" diameter size used for this particular version.
If you decide to make one or something very similar, please share your pictures and results. I know I'd love to see it!
**Tools mentioned in today's show:
Veritas Spokeshave
Gorilla Wood Glue
FISH Forstner Bits
Bora Pistol-grip Clamps
Woodslicer Resaw Bandsaw Blade**
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While working on the new wedding boxes for my wife's photography business www.shuttersam.com (shameless plug I know...because I love her) I discovered that the 1/8" diameter straight cutting bit I was using to route an important groove didn't seem to be adequately surrounded by my smallest diameter throat plate in the router table.
No big deal really, but I didn't want to take the risk of the material catching or splintering or tearing out or...whatever could go wrong.
So better to be safe than sorry, I broke out a customizable insert plate and made one that would work perfectly for this task.
Tools featured in today's post:
-
Bench Dog 40-300 ProMax RT Complete
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Bench Dog Tools 40-150 ProLift Router Adjustment System
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Bench Dog 40-136 Zero Clearance Insert for Large Bench Dog ProPlate and ProLift
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1/8" Downcut Spiral Bit
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Every year I try to help my wife's business by making wedding boxes for her clients. They're simple and plain and are made to hold a few pictures and maybe a CD or other archive of the images from their happy occasion.
This year we changed things up a bit, and went with a new design. One that's easier for me to build and batch out, often using not much more than some smaller scraps and off-cuts that normally might be thrown out or burned in a campfire.
The joinery for this easy to build box is also quite simple. Grooves, rabbets and a miter are all there is to it, all joinery that can be accomplished on a table saw alone or with a variety of tools if you prefer.
Simple and understated, this box can be built completely for utilitarian purposes or dressed up for something more elegant. Enjoy!
**Tools featured in today's video include:
Bessey Web Clamp
Kreg Bandsaw Fence
Whiteside Router Bit
Steel City Tool Works 14" Band Saw
Bench Dog ProMax RT
Bench Dog Feather-Loc Double Featherboard
Milescraft Push Stick
SawStop Cabinet Saw**
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Shortly after the release of the most recent video featuring the new photo boxes I'm making for my wife's business I received an email from an audience member asking if I was concerned about the expansion and contraction of the box's bottom panel effecting the metered corners of its sides?
In truth, not really, or at least not nearly as much as I would be if this was a different project and with larger dimensions and maybe even different materials. Of course, it's not just the dimensions and materials that make confident against the wood movement having drastic effects on the boxes, there's also a few other things too that make me feel confident about my decision.
In today's video I discuss these topics in the hopes that I answer the audience member's concerns and maybe some others from folks who were thinking along the same lines.
**Items mentioned in today's post:
-
Timber Check Moisture Meter
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Lee Valley Wood Movement Reference Guide**
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Recently I've been doing a lot of resawing on my bandsaw. Resawing is a great way to get thin material for a project versus wasting away the material by simply running it through a thickness planer or purchasing it pre-thicknessed (which probably means it's been sitting around for a while and is bowed or warped by the time you get it).
In episode No. 491 "Resawing options" I had shared different ways I know of to resaw thicker material, but I didn't go into the details, especially when it came to my techniques on the bandsaw. And that's what we're doing on today's show, talking about how I resaw and a few tips on what I do to get my bandsaw all set up for it.
**Tools in today's show:
Steel City Tool Works 14-Inch Band Saw
Kreg Bandsaw Fence
Woodslicer resaw blade**
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Once in a while I have a few crosscuts that exceed the capability of my table saw miter gauge or my crosscut sled and since I prefer to use my table saw for crosscutting versus my miter saw, because of it's accuracy and versatility, I found a technique that works and is super accurate.
There are any number of ways to attach an extension arm to my sled so I could clamp on a stop block to make multiple cuts that are repeatable and equally accurate, but they can get in the way and or even just clumsy.
This technique is as simple as they get and can be easily adapted for use on just about any miter gauge or crosscut sled and requires nothing more than a pencil.
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I have no doubt in my mind that the chance of me felling a tree and then taking the time to hand hewn it is pretty much zero. But that didn't stop me from attending one of my favorite classes this year at Woodworking in America 2013.
The opportunity to sit in Roy Underhill's class "TIMBER!!!" to see him demonstrate an aspect of woodworking that is so far out of my scope of accomplishing, was worth every second I sat in the lecture hall.
I will admit there was some morbid curiosity as I wondered if something would happen when he started swinging the axe for real, but what I discovered instead was that the more Roy swung a tool, the more I learned. The more Roy sent wood chips into the audience, the more I understood how and why it might be important to learn how to hand hewn my own log…although I still have no idea when I'll ever do it.
Perhaps you're into timber framing or just really want to try something like this yourself…because you have a fireplace mantel just waiting to be made out of that pesky tree in the yard?…attending this class was a great way to get my experience at Woodworking in America 2013 off and running. Thanks Roy!
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At the top of my "woodworking things that intimidate me to tears" list you'll find woodcarving somewhere in the top 5, definitely far below "magnifying glass pyrography".
Considering I took the plunge not so long ago and faced my fear of woodturning, and currently I'm alive and not noticeably maimed (thanks to tricky camera angles at least), I figure it's time to start knocking one or two more off the list.
Thankfully this year Mary May returned to Woodworking in America and taught a couple of classes on woodcarving. Before I go any further, if you're not already familiar with Mary she's an amazing woodcarver who's taken the time to not only teach her art form at conferences like this or in the occasional class at a woodworking school but more importantly (as far as I'm concerned) she's taken the next step and opened an online school too. But more about that below…
The two classes Mary was teaching this year were "Carving Life into Leaves" and "Linenfold Carving". The footage for today's post is from the linenfold class and has been edited to show more of the actual tool work and even Mary's body positioning at the bench to give you a feel for what you could learn if you were to sign up for her online classes.
This isn't meant to be a sales pitch by any means, but considering what I learned just from sitting in the audience and watching I can only imagine what I'd learn if I were to start following the lessons with my tools in hand repeating the action she's teaching on the videos.
Do I see myself becoming a full on woodcarver down the road? Probably not. But it would be really cool to feel confident enough with my tools and a basic knowledge of the craft to occasionally embellish a component or two on a project!
For more information about Mary May including her online school visit www.marymaycarving.com. And if you join, you'll also find this linenfold project as one of the many available lessons to watch and learn about.
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This year I decided I really wanted to take a class or two on topics that normally I wouldn't be drawn towards. In the past this usually meant something to do with turning, carving a linenfold or leaf and especially nothing to do with hand-hewing a log.
It's not that I don't think they're worthwhile topics, it's just up until now my interests at Woodworking in America have been more about bench tools or projects that I see myself doing as soon as I got back to my shop. You know…topics I'm kind of familiar with already.
But this year I obviously threw all that out the window! It's pretty safe to say that the majority of my classes went against the grain of normalcy for me. And I can honestly say it was worth it!
For today's video it's a visit to Peter Follansbee's "Carved Spoons". I have no idea when I'll ever carve my own spoon(s), but after only about 30 minutes of watching Peter split a log, then shape it into a spoonlike blank, I was hooked.
Unfortunately I didn't make it all the way through the class, so I don't have the finished spoon footage to share (it was lunchtime and someone else was buying that day…), but I think you'll quite easily get an idea of what a great class this was.
Thanks Peter for keeping me entertained and actually sparking an interest in me for something I still can't believe I'm looking forward to trying sometime in the near future.
To learn more about Peter and to checkout all the things he has going on that might be something you'll be looking forward to trying out too, visit his blog at pfollansbee.wordpress.com.
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The beauty of owning a lathe is being able to turn small scraps of wood into fun little projects. Typically these are quick & easy to make and something friends and family love to receive as gifts (or that you can sell to customers rather than burning in a fire pit with the rest of the scraps.)
Earlier this year on a trip to my local Woodcraft store with my wife reluctantly tagging along, we saw these bottle opener hardware kits.
Before I knew it, I had a basket full of them and a list of friends who would be expecting one.
If you’re new to the lathe, or you just want a fun project that you can knock out in no time at all, one of these bottle opener kits is just the thing you’re looking for.
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It's pretty much next to "NEVER" when Samantha wants to work on a woodworking project with me.
So when she asks about us building a large table together I didn't quite jump at the chance at first, I kind of carefully asked some probing questions before I agreed to anything.
Don't get me wrong, if you have a spouse that enjoys working in the woodshop with you (even only once in a while) consider yourself lucky. Having a shared hobby with your significant other is a great way to spend time.
On today's episode we're building what's become lovingly known as the MattKEA table. A solid wood, farmhouse-style table that easily accommodates 8-10 people with plenty of elbow room for good food and great conversation.
So why did we jokingly call it the "MattKEA Table?"
While Samantha is helping with most of the assembly, and almost all of the finishing, I was the one down in the shop manufacturing most of the components (except the legs and the top, more about those in the video...here's a hint though www.osbornewood.com.)
The idea behind this build is that I'd do all the milling, shaping and joinery and she assembles the final product, just like when she comes home from a trip to Ikea.
All kidding aside, it was actually a lot of fun and there's even a chance we'll do more of these joint project builds in the future.
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I don’t which I’m more excited about, the new and improved work surface I’m using for my sharpening station or the little addition I just added the other day?
Sharpening my hand planes and chisels has always been one of those things that I begrudgingly did. It’s not that I didn’t get good results, it’s just that to achieve those results I felt like I was always jumping through hoops to get there.
If you’ve ever seen one of my shop tours in the past you’re probably familiar with my previous sharpening setup, a re-purposed roll-around microwave cart. It did a decent job of acting as extra storage space for all my sharpening accessories and some other things, but what it didn’t do a good job at was providing enough work surface for laying out my stones so I could get to them quickly and easily.
With this new sharpening station (which is actually once again a re-purposed kitchen storage item) I have plenty of work surface to lay everything out and still have room to spare.
And because of this extra space, I decided I really wanted to have a setup that would make using my waterstones even easier, because up until now my biggest complaint with them was occasionally having to "chase" them across the work surface when using them.
On today’s episode I’ll share with you a little upgrade I added to my sharpening station that I’ve been wanting to do for a long time now. The result will eventually be me honing and sharpening my blades more frequently!
While I’m on the topic of sharpening stones, for current Chortle & Woobie-level Patrons of Matt’s Basement Workshop, it seems the perfect time to discuss how I care and maintain them, so that’s what we’ll be discussing in this episode’s bonus content.
Not a Patron of the show? Please consider joining. For more information visit www.patreon.com/mattsbasementworkshop.
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I've been trying to distance myself further and further away from product reviews. Since they consist entirely of opinions they can be a little tricky to pull off successfully.
This is especially true if you've had plenty of time to try the item out and can navigate your way around it like a seasoned pro, and forget to mention the number of times it took you to get to that point (I promise I've never done that on this show...tempted to do it, but never have!)
One tool in the wood shop that doesn't typically have a built in dust collection system or necessarily a great way to capture dust at the source is the drill press. Sure there are different ways to go about pulling the chips and dust out of the way*, but one new option on the market is the Drillnado.**
The Drillnado is a dust collection accessory for the drill press that slips right over the chuck, the bit and clamps on to the quill. According to the folks at drillnado.com it's designed for use with most floor-model drill presses, but can be easily adapted to many bench-top versions also thanks to the included components in the kit.
(**NOTE: After recording the video and sharing it with the folks at Drillnado.com I heard back from them that they’ve started manufacturing the sleeve that fits over the drill bit without the narrower nose at the bottom. They’re now pre-cut to work with the larger diameter forstner and spade bits you might be using.)
I haven't used it for more than demonstrational purposes, but given the early success I've had with it, I don't have a problem recommended it to anyone who's looking for a great way to add dust collection to their drill press (there was one little hiccup involving my Festool dust extractor, but I'll explain more about that in the video.)
Drillnado is a Chortle-level Patron of the show.
*Patrons of Matt's Basement Workshop at Patreon.com will see more about other options in the bonus content just for Chortle-level patrons and above
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In today’s episode we wrap-up this epic nine-part series on the construction of the 8 Drawer Tall Dresser for my daughter Madison.
It always seems to happen no matter how hard we try to avoid it. As we near the end of a build there are plenty of small (and sometimes significant) details we have to tackle before we can move on to the finishing process, and this build is no exception to that rule.
For this project those loose ends include the final dimensioning and installation of the top, and the finessing of the reveals around the drawer fronts, a task that can sound harder and more complicated than it actually is.
Unfortunately at this time my daughter hasn’t picked a color for the paint, nor have we even begun to consider pulls for the drawers, a task I have a feeling is going to be even more tedious than the paint. But I’ll keep everyone up to date in a future blog post or revisit to see the final outcome. Thanks for watching!
A full set of detailed plans are available for sale on my website, thanks to Brian Benham of Benham Design Concepts.
You can find them by visiting our new "Digital Downloads Store" by clicking here.
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The end of the tall dresser build is almost here. One of the final things left to do, other than apply the paint, is to build the drawers. So that’s what we’re doing in today’s episode, it’s all about drawer construction.
We’ll discuss dimensioning the Baltic Birch plywood for the drawer box sides. Fabricating the drawer runners that the boxes will ride on to keep them centered in their openings, not to mention how they’ll help to make opening and closing them much smoother.
Then we’ll follow that all up with the construction and fitting of the pinned rabbet joinery we’ll use to assemble the sides to the solid wood drawer fronts.
After today’s episode we have only one more to go and the entire construction of the 8 drawer tall dresser will be wrapped up and ready for the paint room.
A full set of detailed plans are available for sale on my website, thanks to Brian Benham of Benham Design Concepts.
You can find them by visiting our new "Digital Downloads Store" by clicking here.
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When I first came up with the basic design for Madison's dresser I knew I wanted to incorporate turned feet into it. I'm still as novice a woodturner as anyone can be, but as I've learned over the years the quickest way to becoming better is to be at the tool rest as frequent as possible. So for today's episode it's all about my time in front of the lathe turning and shaping the four tapered feet that support the entirety of the dresser.
Originally I tried to convince myself that a much simpler form would suffice, but once we had the plans together there was no doubt in my mind a tapered turned foot was a must. I'm sure this style of design has a given name (they all do,) but whatever it is, it just appealed to me as I thought about what my daughter would like for her own piece of furniture.
The turning and tapering process is really simple, as you'll see when you watch, but it wasn't until I started the fourth foot that I finally found I had been way overcomplicating the process. I obviously spent way to much time overthinking, and being overcautious (don't confuse this with being flippant and cavalier about my safety) in how I was approaching it.
The difference in time to accomplish the same task from the very first foot to that last one dropped dramatically. Too bad I didn't film that last one though. Still, the technique I demonstrate achieved the same result and was only about 1-2 minutes longer in overall time.
My take away lesson in all of this? "Don't be shy with hogging away the material." Get right in there and get to work removing the waste quickly (and safely) so you can start finessing the final shape quicker.
A full set of detailed plans are available for sale on my website, thanks to Brian Benham of Benham Design Concepts.
You can find them by visiting our new "Digital Downloads Store" by clicking here.
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With all the drawer frames built, and assembled it’s time to glue them into position in their corresponding dados between the two sides.
Glue ups aren’t all that bad on a small scale, but when you have this many pieces to put together in a short amount of time it can be downright scary if you let it.
But if you take the time to do a few practice runs to anticipate where things might get sticky (pardon the pun) it’s not that difficult to formulate a plan for when you finally breakout the glue bottle and actually get started.
In today’s episode we only have three things to discuss. First is a slight alteration to the existing plan, second is cutting and installing the drawer guides and third is the massive glue up itself.
The first two are only a small portion of the episode, but the third is almost all the footage I shot to give you an idea of just how long it took me and all the little steps that went into it. On the bright-side, it came together better than I anticipated, but next time, I think I might ask for some help from the family to speed it up.
A full set of detailed plans are available for sale on my website, thanks to Brian Benham of Benham Design Concepts.
You can find them by visiting our new "Digital Downloads Store" by clicking here.
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Just when you thought you were finished, they pull you right back in again!
Actually I was never really finished, once I had the drawer frames glued up I still had a little more work to do on them before we're ready to assemble the entire body of the dresser.
So in today's episode we're going to finish the construction of the drawer frames.
This involves cleaning up the dried glue and tweaking the joinery to insure the drawers will slide in and out smoothly every time. And it also involves cutting a dado down the center rails to accept a drawer guide we'll install later to help keep the drawers perfectly centered.
Unlike the dados we cut for the sides of the dresser body, these dados are a stopped version. So this requires a little more planning to make sure they don't show on the front face and a little chopping with chisels, followed by some tweaking with a router plane.
All of it can sound a little complicated, but it's not as bad as you think it will be.
A full set of detailed plans are available for sale on my website, thanks to Brian Benham of Benham Design Concepts.
You can find them by visiting our new "Digital Downloads Store" by clicking here.
Help support the show - please visit our advertisers
We’re making progress with the 8 drawer tall dresser I’m building for my daughter Madison. In today’s episode we’re moving on to building the drawer frames for the dresser.
Drawer frames are a crucial component in the overall body of the dresser, and while most probably won’t notice them in their entirety (other than the edge of the front facing rail) it’s still important to make sure they’re well constructed.
There are a number of joinery options to choose from, including non-traditional joinery such as pocket-holes (which is actually what I was originally planning to use.) But the joinery I decided to use in this build was a traditional tongue and groove joint.
To insure the mating pieces match up as perfect as possible, I opted to use a tongue and groove router bit set I featured several years ago in an episode of “Router Bit of the Month.”
Also featured in this episode is the glue-up process for assembling the drawer frames and a quick discussion of cleaning up the dados from the last episode (something I didn’t plan to do, but it turns out they needed a little assistance.)
A full set of detailed plans are available for sale on my website, thanks to Brian Benham of Benham Design Concepts.
You can find them by visiting our new "Digital Downloads Store" by clicking here.
Help support the show - please visit our advertisers
It’s time to get started with the actual building of Madison’s tall dresser, and the first steps in the process is making the sides for the body.
These consist of two wide, solid-wood panels just over 49 inches in length and 19 inches in width.
In order for us to attach the drawer frames (which not only support the drawers but are an important part of the overall structural framework of the dresser,) we need to plow out a few dados across the width of the sides and cut rabbets at the top/bottom and also on the back edge to eventually receive the back panel.
For the side panels I got really lucky and chose two extra-wide boards (approximately 12+ inches in width each) to make up the majority of the width, and then eventually glued them together with some not so extra-wide 8 inch boards to give me a rough dimension I could start working with.
To mill the extra-wide boards I decided against ripping them to widths that would fit on my 8 inch jointer, and instead built a very simple thickness planer sled that would allow me to flatten one face as if I had ran it over the cutter head of a monster-sized jointer.
Then after the glue-up was completed it was over to the table saw to crosscut and rip the panels to size, followed by installing my dado blade and getting to work on those dados and rabbets.
I’d love to tell you there weren’t any complications along the way…but that would be a lie! So we’ll discuss what happened and how I fixed those mistakes in today’s episode.
A full set of detailed plans are available for sale on my website, thanks to Brian Benham of Benham Design Concepts.
You can find them by visiting our new "Digital Downloads Store" by clicking here.
Help support the show - please visit our advertisers
Now that the design, and dimensions of Madison's Dresser have all been worked out in the planning process it’s time to order the lumber, and sort through the stacks looking for just the right pieces for each component.
Given the fact this project is being painted, I’m far less worried about matching colors or grain patterns, but I still need to find stock that can easily accommodate specific sizes for components, and not to mention setting "flawed" pieces aside that might work better for interior pieces.
Ordinarily this process might be taken care of at the lumber yard if I were to hand pick the boards myself, but I usually order my lumber through a service like Bell Forest (yes, they are an advertiser, and no they didn't pay me to say that...because I'll continue to use their service long after they stop advertising.) Typically there's not a lot of "flawed" material, the occasional small pin-hole knot or barked waney edge, but that's about it.
The real benefit of this task though is that it's a great opportunity to familiarize myself with the stack and it also helps me to pass the time while waiting for the lumber to acclimate to my shop, that is, if it’s necessary.
Given it's the middle of winter while I'm building this project...I'm not taking any chances. A couple weeks of patience to be on the safe side is well worth it.
A full set of detailed plans are available for sale on my website, thanks to Brian Benham of Benham Design Concepts, you can find them by clicking here to visit our new "Digital Downloads Store."
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I'm only a few years behind finally building a dresser for my daughter, but it’s just in time for her to graduate from High School in a couple of years and head off to college.
In this first episode of a multi-part build series we talk about my own design process, starting from the rough idea in my head then taking it to the finished plans and drawings.
For many, inspiration comes from a variety of places, but for myself it's mostly a result of the family identifying a need and letting me know we need to fill it.
While it’s a far cry from being inspired by a mythological muse it’s still very effective and has resulted in some great projects that fill our house.
A full set of detailed plans are available for sale on my website, thanks to Brian Benham of Benham Design Concepts, you can find them by clicking here to visit our new Downloadable Plans page.
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During the long, cold winter nights I like to cozy up with a hot cup of cider and sit down to watch a movie or read a good book, and to help set the mood (because who DOESN'T take the time to set a mood?) I'll turn on a nice accent light and let it bath me in its warm glow.
On today's episode we're making a wood veneer lampshade for just the kind of accent lighting that I like to use. The project is super simple, and you can batch a whole bunch of them out to be placed wherever you think a little light needs to be cast.
The veneer I’m using for this particular project came from the folks at Oakwood Veneer at www.oakwoodveneer.com. It’s a paperback cherry veneer that’s easily bendable and cuts clean with very little splintering. It comes in a variety of species, and we already have some amazing Douglas Fir veneer waiting for another project or set of lights.
It’s not only the species of veneer you can experiment with, but also the design of the seam where the two ends meet. In this video I’ll demonstrate how to create a zigzag pattern that looks pretty sharp when the light is turned on, but there are so many options to play with, the choice is completely yours.
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Mornings can be rough for me, but a good cup of coffee can make all the difference. Over the years we’ve tried several different coffee makers, including the K-cups, but in the end we always come back to our good old Mr. Coffee coffee maker. As a result it's important to make sure I get the right amount of coffee grounds in the filter every time for the perfect cup. This doesn’t sound like it should be a big deal, but when I’m doing it with one eye open (and that one eye is unfocused and sleepy) it can be a challenge.
For years we've used an old measuring scoop that I've never been convinced was giving us the right measurements (or at least for me it hasn’t,) so I decided to do something about it. And that something is to make my own coffee scoop from scrap maple I have laying around. Okay, that’s not completely true, part of the reason I want to make the new coffee scoop is that I want an excuse to keep honing my woodturning skills and this seemed like the perfect project.
So on today’s episode, we’re turning a maple bodied coffee scoop on the lathe. It’s surprisingly simple, and can be knocked out in less than an hour (if you’re not filming it to share with friends.) Perhaps the hardest part about the project is deciding how big of a scoop you'll need, or even what species of wood to use. This one ended up being just deep enough to equal one cup of coffee per scoop, which is perfect for me, because the only math I have to do when I’m waking up is adding up the number of cups I think I’ll need to figure out which pair of pants to wear.
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The end of Movember is rapidly approaching, and that means soon there's going to be a run on razor blades as some men return to their clean shaven ways. I'm not quite sure why anyone would want to do that, but to each their own I guess?
So in today's episode we're making a stylish, and custom razor from a turning kit that's readily available at woodworking retailers such as Woodcraft.com. It's a fun and easy project that once again let's you use up some of those scraps you have laying around, or maybe you found something in the exotics bin that looks just too good to pass up.
Whether it's for yourself, or maybe for a loved one or close friend, these turned razor kits are a quick and easy project that you could batch out in a single day, and have ready for gift-giving in no time (so quick in fact, you could probably excuse yourself at the next family event to sneak out to your shop and finish just in case you forgot someone!)
As promised in the video, here's a link to the kit available at Woodcraft.com. And to go along with it, here's a link to an optional razor stand and shaving brush kit, also available at Woodcraft.com (and featured as the bonus footage and extra episode for some of the Patrons of Matt's Basement Workshop, which you can learn more about by clicking here.)
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In today’s episode we’re making a fun little project from more scrap wood lying around my shop, specifically we’re building a beard comb. Why a beard comb?
Given it’s the beginning of November, that means it’s also the beginning of “Movember.” So I thought it would be a fun little project for some of my full-bearded woodworking friends, and an unique way to draw attention to the Movember cause.
The comb is very easy to make, only requiring a simple bridle joint and a little time shaping the handle to your hand. It’s a fun experiment in becoming more acquainted with hand tools such as spokeshaves and rasps and can even be made entirely with hand tools by cutting the curves with a coping or fret saw.
But for mine, I’ll use a combination of power and hand tools to get it built. Is it cheating? I don't think so, it's just a lot of fun.
So what exactly is Movember? It’s a yearly event to raise awareness about men’s health issues, specifically Prostate & Testicular cancers and mental health. According to the website *www.movember.com "The Movember Foundation is the leading global organization committed to changing the face of men’s health.
The Movember community has raised $559 million to date and funded over 800 programs in 21 countries. This work is saving and improving the lives of men affected by prostate cancer, testicular cancer and mental health problems.
The Movember Foundation challenges men to grow moustaches during Movember (formerly known as November), to spark conversation and raise vital funds for its men’s health programs. To date, 4 million moustaches have been grown worldwide, but we won't stop growing as long as serious men’s health issues exist.”***
I don’t know about you, but that sounds like a good cause to me! So have some fun with the project and consider giving to raise awareness to these important health issues.
If you end up making a beard comb, I’d love to see some pictures. Please share them either on the Matt’s Basement Workshop Facebook Page or by emailing them to me by clicking here.
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The H.O. Studley Tool Chest is considered by many to be THE "Iconic Tool Chest," the very tool chest that all others are compared to, and the envy of every woodworker who set their eyes upon it.
[caption id="attachment_12920" align="aligncenter" width="400"] Image courtesy Don's Barn blog[/caption]
On the outside it's constructed of a gorgeous Cuban Mahogany, but it’s the meticulousness of the organization on the inside that sets it apart from everything.
When opened, it reveals the breathtaking layout and arrangement of the 240+ tools contained within. All of which add to the beauty and awe-inspiring effect the tool chest has on those who’ve seen it. But who was H.O. Studley?
Truthfully, we know more about the chest than the man who built it. And what about the lesser known Studley workbench? Have you ever seen it up close or even knew it existed ("Chortle"-level Patrons of Matt's Basement Workshop will get a look at it in the bonus footage accompanying this video, join today by clicking here?) Those, and many more questions were what Don Williams set out to answer in his upcoming book about H.O. Studley and his tool chest, due out in early 2015.
Don, along with photographer Narayan Nayar, and Christopher Schwarz of Lost Art Press are painstakingly documenting the man, his tools, and of course his tool chest, so the rest of us can understand who he was and what’s so amazing about this iconic piece of woodworking history.
Along the journey to write the book and document the tool chest, Don made arrangements with the current owner to set up an exhibit for the general public to come in and see it up close.
The H.O. Studley Tool Chest and Workbench Exhibit is happening May 15-17, 2015 in Cedar Rapids, Iowa. It’s occurring the same weekend as Handworks in nearby Amana, Iowa and will be offering visitors a full 360º view of the tool chest and workbench.
Tickets are currently on sale, but there is a limited number available. So don’t miss out on the opportunity to see the Studley Tool Chest in person. For more information visit www.studleytoolchest.com.
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No one will ever be able to say the Vanderlist family vinyl collection is overwhelming. It's diverse to say the least, but that has more to do with them being picked up solely for use in a photo shoot by my wife versus played.
Actually, we don't even own a turntable, so even if we wanted to listen we'd have to take them to a friend's house. Regardless, the lack of a full collection (or a player) is no reason they can't be displayed well.
And that's what we're doing in today's episode, creating a display to make them look amazing. Because in the words of Fernando Lamas "It is better to look good than to feel good!" (or in the case of a few of these records..."sound good.")
I first saw this project on Pintrest, so it's not an original design, but it was a lot of fun to make. It's easy to customize and add your own little twists too. Whether it's varying the species of wood used, the length of the base, or the height and shape of the supports it's easy to make it uniquely your own.
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For a long time now I've been trying to find a way to take Matt's Basement Workshop Podcast to the next level. So what exactly is the "next level?"
Well I have an idea, but it's never been worth talking about because I never had the time to create a plan to get there. That was until recently!
I'm so excited about this, I want to get started on it right away. So here it is:
Why should I become a Patron of Matt's Basement Workshop?
Maybe the better question to start with is "what is a Patron?"
According to the Merriam-Webster Dictionary a Patron is "a person who gives money and support to an artist, organization, etc. : a person who buys the goods or uses the services of a business, library, etc."
Without Patrons there's a good chance some of the world's greatest artists, musicians, playwrights, and even furniture makers would never have created the pieces that inspire and enlighten us today.
Just ask modern tool-makers like Scott Meek of Scott Meek Planes, or Mark Harrell of Bad Axe Tool Works what their beloved patrons did for them and the many other tool makers who needed a helping hand to get started.
If you choose to become a Patron of Matt's Basement Workshop I have three reward levels as my way of saying "thank you!"
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$2/month - "Spoiler" - Your name on the Patreon supporter web page on the website, and access to new content at least one day before everyone else!
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$5/month - "Chortle" - Same as the "Spoiler" level but with an option for a clickable link to your website on my Patreon supporter web page.
Plus access to bonus content from each new episode; easily an extra 5-10 minutes of footage exclusive to this level of patronage and above.
- $15/month - "Woobie" - All of the benefits listed above plus a guaranteed minimum of one exclusive bonus video each month (videos answering listeners’ questions, expanding on content from previous video(s), and possibly even an exclusive build just for "Woobie" patrons.)
Also, Patrons at this level will also have their choice of a MBW "Classic Logo" or a "Your Brain on Matt's Basement Workshop" t-shirt to be delivered during the first month of their patronage.
And regardless of which level of Patronage you choose, every Patron of Matt's Basement Workshop will be entered into a monthly giveaway of woodworking/show related schwag.*
*due to international shipping costs, alternate schwag items may be provided for Patrons outside of the USA
As the support from Patrons of Matt's Basement Workshop continues to grow I have milestones to gauge the success of the partnership between the show and the audience that benefit not only the Patrons but EVERYONE. Milestones I know you'll love!
Rather than explaining everything here and writing a lengthy blog post, visit the Patreon information page I setup on the website. All your questions should be answered there, along with links and detailed information about the reward levels and milestones.
Together we can create the next level of Matt's Basement Workshop Podcast that I know you'll love watching & participating with, and I'll love producing, because I'm freed from chasing down advertisers and supporters when I could be creating content.
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I knew it was eventually going to happen, the temptation is far too great to avoid.
Don't worry, I'm not talking about turning to the darkside and taking up knitting (although I wouldn't mind making my own matching wool scarf and woobie set for winter, especially if it's as cold as last year.)
Instead, I'm talking about another blackhole of woodworking that I've been very vocal about avoiding for years...WOODTURNING!
Sure I've had the lathe for awhile now, and yes I've dabbled a little bit with it here and there. But I've never taken the plunge and unleashed the full power of the turning tools.
Recently I moved the lathe up and out of the basement workshop and into the garage where I could enjoy the warm summer evenings and not feel like I had to stop every five to ten minutes to vacuum up the accumulating chips and sawdust.
On today's episode you get to witness the fruits of my dabbling. The result of what happens when a woodworker decides to make more than a dowel and attempts to learn what each woodturning tool does (preferably without hurting himself in the process.)
You'll see plenty of mistakes in this video and probably laugh at my fumbling with the tools (especially when I attempt to identify which gouge I'm using) but hopefully more than anything else, you'll enjoy seeing the first of what I imagine to be numerous woodturning projects to come.
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If you haven't noticed yet there's a bit of a theme to my videos this summer. Have you figured it out? It's "Scrap wood projects!"
Continuing along with the last couple of episodes this one is no different. For today's project all you need are some Metal Hinge Clips, Magnet discs, and scrap wood.
What I find great about this project is that it's an opportunity to use some of your smallest scraps and you're truly only limited by your imagination when it comes to shape and size. Okay, maybe you're a little limited also by the strength of the magnet, but that's easy to fix too with the purchase of a rare earth magnet or two.
And just like all the other scrap wood projects we've seen over the years, this is a great opportunity to not only use material that might ordinarily get tossed or burned, but it's an inexpensive way to familiarize yourself with a new species or two.
If after watching the video you decide to make some yourself, please feel free to share pictures. I'd love to see what you create!
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In the never-ending quest to answer the timeless woodworker question "what do you do with your scraps?" I have yet another answer, photo clipboards!
Actually, this one came directly from my beautiful and amazing wife Samantha, who was looking for something new to present to her wedding photography clients.
The concept is simple. Take a beautiful piece of scrap wood, shape it a little if necessary, clean up its surfaces so there's no splinters, apply a simple finish to protect it and attach a clip to one face.
The result is an amazingly simple project that can be as big or small as you need for your presentation and a great way to clean out your scrap pile (or to just experiment with some pricey exotics without breaking the bank.)
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Short of having a bottle opener in every room of the house I don't really have a need for another one. But when inspiration strikes, who am I to stand in its way?
So on today's episode we're making another bottle opener. Except this time, I know for a fact you can easily find this version just about everywhere (even Amazon.com), and in most cases for under a $1.
Plus, with this style of opener, there's a lot of ways you can dress it up or have a little a fun with the scraps you'll be using.
In fact, you can use scraps that might ordinarily be tossed simply because they're practically the size of cutoffs and chips that probably go flying across the room when you use your mitersaw.
So crack open a cold one (grape-soda or otherwise) and kickback for a quick project you can knock out in an hour or two and literally for just a few dollars.
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The Platform Bed build is just getting underway. This first episode is the construction of the "undercarriage" or support system for the slats that will be used to keep the mattress from falling through the middle of the platform frame.
Because it's being hidden from view I decided to not use the same wood species as the rest of the bed frame, in fact the secondary wood is just Poplar. It's plain, simple and more importantly in my neck of the woods, inexpensive.
The design of this support system is very straight forward and there are a number of options for constructing it. The joinery choice for me came down to something that was pretty simple but very strong, a corner lap joint. And to take that lap joint even further, the joinery for the long middle support is a half-blind lap joint.
How I constructed both of these joints is something I share in today's episode. There's different ways to construct each and my choice is the one that works best for me. But if you want to learn more about what the various options are for this joinery and many more, a great resource for the power tool user is the book "Classic Joints with Power Tools" by Yeung Chan.
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For sure the warm days of summer are upon us in the Northern hemisphere, and as I mentioned in a recent post, that means it's time for me to start spending more time out of the shop.
I'd love to say all that time outdoors is devoted to hanging with the family; swimming in the big lake, riding bikes and just all around having fun. But typically the summer is usually filled with plenty of yard work and home repairs too.
While shop time can get limited in the summer, I still manage to head into the basement during the hottest parts of the day to escape the heat and enjoy this shared passion of ours for woodworking by tackling smaller projects I can knock out in an hour or two or over a few evenings during the week.
Last year, around the 4th of July, I built the six-pack made of scrap wood that was lying around the shop. This year I'm taking some of my smaller cutoffs and scraps that I bought from the folks at Bell Forest Products and decided to spruce up a rather ordinary rubber gripped bottle opener I picked up at my local big box grocery store.
[caption id="attachment_12198" align="aligncenter" width="600"] So many wood scraps to choose from...I guess I need to make more of them![/caption]
This is one of the projects that reminds me how much fun it can be to be a woodworker. Being able to take something that looks rather plain and ordinary and making it my own.
I was looking around at the store where I originally bought it and I can't find any more. I also looked online and at the manufacturer's website, but apparently this must be a discontinued item?
However, I did see this model is available from the same manufacturer, and it looks like it could work just as easily. Perhaps another video in the making?
In the meantime, I hope you enjoy this little project and it inspires you to do something similar with items laying around your house.
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I've finally navigated my way through the quagmire that is "the loose ends" of the final steps to completing a project. It was a rough trail with a few pitfalls along the way. But regardless of the route I took to get here, the final video of the bathroom cabinet project is complete.
In today's episode we're covering the basics of the construction of the base upon which the cabinet will sit. And I have to admit, it looks good from the front, but from the side it appears I may have misread my own dimensions?
At just under 8 feet tall, the combination of the cabinet and the base are pretty amazing, but it leaves me wondering if I should construct a step stool to reach the top shelf!
Regardless of the height or any of the details that bogged me down, the dark chocolatey color of the finish and the beautiful grains of the cherry veneers in the cabinet doors and sides make this cabinet absolutely gorgeous!
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The next component of the platform bed build to tackle is the box encasing the undercarriage assembly. It has three purposes:
First, it's a means to support the undercarriage assembly for when it's attached to the platform proper.
Second, it'll act as part of the support and reinforcement system for when we attach the legs in an upcoming episode.
Third, it just looks cool and is an opportunity to cut some beautiful thru-dovetails and show off my mad joinery skills (of which you'll learn more about the truth behind this last point).
The main focus of this episode is on the cutting of the dovetails themselves. I chose to do it completely by hand for one simple reason, I don't own a dovetail jig. There's an entire list of reasons why I prefer to hand cut my dovetails and I'll share them at a point further down the road, but suffice to say, they may take me a little longer to do it but I enjoy the process.
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After what felt like forever I finally completed the pre-finishing process for the body of the bathroom cabinet. A brown dye with a few coats of poly and it's now ready for assembly. If you’re curious how this first attempt at a pre-finish went, checkout my earlier blog “Confessions of a first time pre-finisher”.
In today’s episode we’re concentrating on getting the doors installed. At this point it's all about finessing the fit to get the desired reveal I like for inset doors.
While I like to think I have enough experience to be able to hang the doors without a lot of effort, the truth is I rely a lot on the adjustability of the European-style hinges I'm using in this build.
Installation of this style of hinge looks complicated at first, but in reality it's a lot easier than you may expect. But to make it even easier we’ll cover the construction of a story stick to make it quick and easy to layout all the hinges quickly and accurately.
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In today’s episode we’re moving along on the bathroom cabinet by constructing all three doors. The two on top and the flip down version below.
All three are a form of frame and panel construction, but the biggest difference is in how I chose to assemble them. For the two larger doors up top, the panel is actually 3/4” plywood glued to the stiles creating one large piece.
Then for the flip-down door I used a more “traditional” construction technique and turned to a rail and stile router bit set to create the joinery.
Once all the doors were constructed, we also need to drill the holes that will make up the adjustable shelving system behind the two doors on top.
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My next big project is already underway, a “commission” piece for an old neighbor. After they did a little bathroom renovation, there’s now a need for a cabinet that can store towels and all those things you don’t necessarily want hanging out making the place look all cluttered.
The cabinet itself is a pretty good sized piece. In fact a lot bigger than I had originally envisioned, but so far it’s coming together rather nicely.
The body of the cabinet is being constructed of a premium cherry veneered plywood, so the big question on my mind was what would I cover the exposed plies with? Veneer edge-banding or a thicker solid wood edge-banding?
I chose the thicker solid wood version and decided to try a technique to cut it repeatedly and accurately on the table saw that I hadn’t tried before.
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I’ve had an opportunity over the years to tryout a few versions of the Kreg pocket hole jig and I’ve always been impressed with their ease of use, repeatability and accuracy.
It’s not that Kreg radically redesigns the jigs each time, but instead they make small improvements to their look and feel that make them more user friendly while still working exactly the same way.
A little while ago Kreg sent us a new K5 Pocket-Hole Jig to use in the basement workshop. Considering I’ve always been happy with the K4 I was a little skeptical that I would see any significant difference between them.
As I suspected, the results were the same when it came to accuracy and repeatability but the big difference, as far as I’m concerned, is in its easier to use clamping system and its support wings. Both a very nice touch!
Considering purchasing a Kreg pocket hole joinery system? The K5 is a very nice model to add to your shop.
To expand the range of materials you can use it on, you can eventually add both the Micro Drill Guide System and the new HD Jig for 2x lumber.
Purchase yours through Amazon.com:
Kreg K5 Pocket-Hole Jig
Kreg Tool Company KJHD Jig HD
Kreg KJMICRODGB Jig Micro Drill Guide System
Also available at Highland Woodworking
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It doesn’t matter how amazing the joinery or how beautiful the stock is that I’m working with, if this bed doesn’t have a decent set of legs upon which to stand, it’s not worth the effort as far as I’m concerned.
At 3-1/2” square the ideal stock for making these legs might be straight-grain 16/4 maple, but for mine they’re being made from laminated pieces of 8/4.
And while these aren’t pretty in their design, their chunky style and solid construction ensure they’ll stand the test of time or Vanderlists…which ever is worse.
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t feels like I skipped around a little in the last episode and should have instead saved working on the legs until after the assembly work in today’s episode.
With that said, in this episode we’re assembling the box upon which the platform will rest and the legs will be attached. In other words, we’re doing the foundation work.
We’ll start by prepping the outside surface of the box itself, followed by joining the dovetails and then inserting and attaching the “undercarriage”.
So let’s get started…
**Tools mentioned in today's episode:
Kreg K5 Pocket-Hole Jig
LN Card Scraper Set**
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It’s official, the platform bed now has legs to stand on! We constructed and shaped them awhile ago, but finally attached them to the rest of the subassembly just recently.
My biggest concern is making sure they’re properly reinforced and can withstand potentially being dragged across a floor or from a leap across the room Superman style (it happens…and not just by my son either…)
As has been happening all along, the original plan and design has been altered slightly and we’ll cover a little bit about that too. But I’m happy with how they turned out and satisfied that the design change not only looks better but is more rigid and stable.
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Now that I lured you in with that “misleading” title here’s what today’s episode is really all about, a side-by-side comparison of my old Rigid 13” thickness planer and the new-to-me Steel City Tool Works 13” thickness planer with helical-style cutter head.
Actually that description is also a little misleading considering the only thing being compared are the cutter heads. The Rigid planer has a traditional 2 straight-blade cutter head while the SCTW has a helical-style cutter head, which features numerous smaller cutters laid out in a helical pattern.
Really my goal today was to demonstrate (to myself and you of course) that there is a noticeable difference between these two styles of cutter heads. So to achieve this goal I grabbed some scrap highly figured curly-maple, ripped it in half and fed one through each machine. The result? I guess you’ll have to watch to find out.
*FOR THE SAKE OF COMPLETE TRANSPARENCY: I originally received the Steel City Tool Works 13” planer for a review segment in 2013. Then after working with the staff of SCTW for an event at their Head Quarters, I received the tool as partial payment for my time and assistance. But I can assure you, my opinions on the tool are completely my own and cannot be altered by the manufacturer***
Looking to purchase either of these machines? You can find them at the following retailers (please remember, purchases made through these links help support the show while getting you the tools and supplies you need for the projects in your own shop):
**Amazon.com - Steel City Tool Works 40200H 13-Inch Planer with Helical Cutterhead
Highland Woodworking - Steel City thickness planer**
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Looking for a fun project in the shop that doesn't take long and you can carry it around in your pocket where ever you go? Here's one for you, a custom veneered smart phone case.
One of the benefits of being a woodworker is that we can frequently customize everyday items. Whether it's building them from raw materials or adding a little flair to an existing item, it's relatively easy to find a way to spruce them up a bit.
In today's episode I'll show you a little fun I've been having lately when I combine some inexpensive pre-manufactured plastic smart phone cases I picked up at Amazon.com with some veneers I bought at Woodcraft.com.
The process is simple, it can be relatively quick and more importantly it's a great way to have fun in the shop and maybe even impress your friends and family (unless they're like mine who just roll their eyes and walk away...with the item in hand.)
**Links to items mentioned or used in the episode:
Smart phone cases at Amazon.com
Veneer Variety Pack 20 Sq. Ft.
Crown Veneer Saw
Nexabond 2500 Instant Wood Glue (regular formula)**
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We’re FINALLY moving forward with the platform bed. After this round of construction it actually resembles a place you could lay down and take a snooze.
In today’s episode we construct the platform itself. A simple mitered frame that gets attached to the “undercarriage” and a series of slats to keep the mattress from falling through the larger openings.
Perhaps the hardest part of the build today was dragging my son’s mattress into the basement for the test fit. Even gluing the miters together was made easier thanks to a sample of Nexabond’s 2500L C.A. glue.
It’s much longer open time than traditional C.A. glues made it easier to use without worrying about parts sticking to me or the floor.
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I’m getting oh so close to the end of the platform bed build, but we still have a couple more episodes to go before we finally wrap it up for good.
On today’s episode we start working on the headboard. More specifically we start working on the supports that will hold the headboard itself in place.
The supports were originally designed as single pieces 6 inches wide, but after yet another re-design, the new version of the support will work much better.
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I won't make any excuses for the length of time it took to complete the construction of the platform bed. Sure it was supposed to be done by Thanksgiving...and then by Christmas...and then by...well, you get the picture.
The truth of the matter for me is simple, large projects should not be started anywhere near holidays that involve family visits and travel plans. When you know you'll be gone or preoccupied every weekend of those month(s), whittling might be a better project to tackle to feed the woodworking bug. Actually, I guess that is an excuse...
Looking back on previous builds in which their original deadlines were never met, I have a very consistent track-record of not meeting them. But hey, that's part of the fun of being a home woodworker versus a professional. When it's my family and I miss a deadline I'm not freaking out, I just bribe them to stop whining.
So with that said, today we wrap up the construction of the platform bed. The final remaining piece to be built was the headboard and that's exactly what I tackle.
I know many of you will be disappointed I don't wrap-up the video series with a look at how it'll be finished. But as I explain in the video, I hate finishing so there's no way in the world I'm recording it. I am planning though on writing an article or two about it once it gets underway.
A big thanks to my son Aiden for being so "patient" and for interrupting the final moments of the video to express his feelings...many of which I KNOW ALL OF YOU WERE THINKING TOO!
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It has been awhile since I’ve given out schwag and the guys over at Centipede Tool have convinced me it is time to break that streak with a contest to win one of the first Centipede PRO Sawhorse Kits to ever be made.
To enter this contest, they ask that you submit one of two entries:
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Tell us about how traditional sawhorses have failed you in the past.
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Tell us about why you can’t wait to get your hands on a Centipede Sawhorse of your own.
Pictures, videos and some passion in your entry is a plus!
Send your entries to me, in the comments section below, or to the Centipede Tool team at info@CentipedeTool.com or post it to their Facebook, Twitter or campaign comments page.
We’ll assemble the entries into a poll on August 12th and you can vote for your favorite entries until the last day of their crowdfunding campaign on August 15th. I can't wait to see the entries, so get started right away!
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It's Thanksgiving weekend in the States, so I thought it would be a perfect time to bring our resident expert Hendrik Varju back to the show. ; I figure many of you have a long weekend off and could use a little something to listen too and maybe inspire you while in the shop...or being dragged along OUT to shop for Black Friday deals.Just recently Hendrik released his two newest titles to his Private Woodworking Instruction in a Box series of DVDs.